128 2 15MB
English Pages 164 Year 1977
10OO 1974 to 1978 Saloon & Estate 5 993 cc
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HAYNES, JeHe AND DANIELS, M.eS.
AUTHOR.
Book NO. E412011
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12.001. 287
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1
Toyota
1000
Owners _.... (.< :
ONPG
Clutch cover
Clutch release bearing
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YM Bearing hub
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Clutch wire q—=—= support flange
———5
When About 5 notches
“E”’ ring
the cable is
lightly pulled, the number of notch between the wire
support flange and “E” ring should be about 5 — 6
Play : 20 ~30 (0.80 ~ 1.18") Cluich release cable
HT A Z
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Pedal height :
>». 163 mm (6.40")
Fig. 5.5. Clutch pedal height adjustment
7 Fig. 5.6. Clutch cable adjustment
Chapter 5/Clutch
66
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———_———_—_———
3 Clutch cable - renewal nn 2 cable. outer release clutch the of top the from ring ‘E’ the 1 Remove 2 Remove the split pin located at the top of the clutch release fork and then disconnect the lower end of the inner cable from the clutch
5 Clutch - removal ee
release fork (photo).
3 Detach the release cable from the transmission case. 4 Disconnect the top end of the release cable from the clutch pedal release lever and withdraw the release cable assembly. 5 Inspect the hooks at both ends of the inner cable for signs of wear or damage. If evident a new cable assembly will be required. 6 Inspect the outer cable, ‘O’ ring and rubber boot for damage. 7 Refitting the clutch release cable is the reverse sequence to removal but the following additional points should be noted: a) Lubricate the ends of the inner cable with a little general purpose grease.
b) Refer to Section 2 and reset the pedal free-play.
Access to the clutch may be obtained in one of two ways. Either
1
remove the engine (Chapter 1) or remove the gearbox (Chapter 6).
Unless the engine requires major overhaul, removal of the gearbox is much the easier and quicker method. 2 Mark the relationship of the clutch cover to the flywheel and unscrew the bolts which secure the clutch pressure plate cover to the flywheel. Unscrew the bolts only a turn at a time, until the pressure of the diaphragm spring is relieved, before completely withdrawing them.
3
Lift away the pressure plate/diaphragm spring assembly and the
driven plate (friction disc) from the face of the flywheel. 4 Make careful note of which side of the friction disc faces outwards (towards the gearbox).
6 Clutch - inspection and renovation eee 1. The clutch will normally need renewal when the free-movement adjustment on the cable has been taken up or it can be felt to be
4 Clutch pedal - removal and refitting EEE EE 1 Remove the ‘E’ ring from the top end of the clutch release outer cable. 2 Disconnect the clutch inner cable from the release lever taking care not to bend the inner cable. 3 Detach the clutch pedal return spring. 4 Undo and remove the pedal shaft nut and withdraw the pedal from the end of the shaft. 5 Remove the shaft and bushes. The pedal support boss can, if necessary, be removed once the two securing bolts are removed. 6 Inspect the clutch pedal pad for wear and damage. Renew if
necessary. 7 Check the clutch pedal for signs of damage or distortion, Rectify as necessary. 8
The cushion should be examined for damage and renewed if evident. 9 Check the bushes for wear or damage and the tension spring for weakness, Renew any worn parts, 10 Reassembly is the reverse sequence to removal but the following
additional
points should be noted:
a) Lubricate the pins and bushes with a little grease. b) Tighten the pedal shaft nut to the correct torque wrench setting. c) Refer to Section 2 and reset the clutch pedal height and free-play.
3.2 Lower end of clutch cable
slipping under conditions of hard acceleration or when climbing a hill. Sometimes squealing noises are evident when the clutch is engaged. This may be due to the friction linings having worn down to the rivets and/or a badly worn release bearing. A clutch will wear according to the way in which it is used. Much intentional slipping of the clutch while driving - rather than the correct selection of gears - will accelerate wear. 2 Examine the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel for signs of scoring. If this is only light it may be left, but if very deep, the pressure plate unit will have to be renewed. If the flywheel is deeply scored it
should be taken off and advice sought from an engineering firm.
EEUU ESSE EEE NEE NEIRIRE ERRNO ne
7 Release bearing - removal and refitting LL i 1 The release bearing is of ball bearing, grease sealed type and although designed for long life it is worth renewing at the same time as the other clutch components are being renewed or serviced. 2 Deterioration of the bearing should be suspected when there are signs of grease leakage or the unit is noisy when spun with the fingers.
3
Remove the two spring clips holding the release bearing carrier to
the release fork and withdraw
the assembly from the shaft.
4 Withdraw the release bearing carrier from the bearing using a tubular drift of the correct size. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. 5 Use a bench vice and suitable packing to press the new bearing onto the carrier. 6 Apply some high melting point grease to the contact surfaces of the
7.7 Clutch release bearing
Fig. 5.7. Clutch pedal assembly E ring Clutch release cable Clutch release /ever Pedal support Pedal support shaft Bush Rubber stop Tension spring Brake pedal WOANAAARWH™ 10 Pedal pad 17. Nut
pee
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DYE
F°G
H
12
Bolt (for pedal adjustment)
13 14 15
Clutch pedal Bush Clevis pin
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Fig. 5.8. Exploded view of clutch assembly
Clutch Clutch Clutch Radial Clutch
disc pressure plate cover w/spring ball bearing release bearing hub
Clutch release fork
Release bearing hub clevis Clutch release fork boot Tension spring Clutch retracting spring Release fork support Solid bushing
M
Clevis pin
Chapter 5/Clutch
\
'
8.5 Aligning clutch disc
8.1 Installing clutch assembly
release lever and pivot assembly, and bearing carrier. Pack some grease into the inner recess of the bearing carrier. 7 Refitting the bearing and carrier is the reverse sequence to removal (photo).
8 Clutch - refitting Bh i a ee 1
a lh a et ce
To refit the clutch plate, place the clutch disc against the flywheel
with the larger end of the hub away from the flywheel. On no account should the clutch disc be replaced the wrong way round as it will be found impossible to operate the clutch (photo). 2
Replace the clutch cover assembly
loosely on the dowels.
Replace
the six bolts and tighten them finger-tight so that the clutch disc is gripped but can still be moved. 3 The clutch disc must now be centralised so that when the engine and gearbox are mated, the gearbox input shaft splines in the centre of the hub. 4 Centralisation can be carried out quite easily by inserting a round bar or wooden dowel of suitable size through the hole in the centre of the clutch, so that the end of the bar rests in the small hole in the crankshaft containing the input shaft bearing bush. Moving the bar sideways or up and down will move the clutch disc in whichever direction
Long End of Clutch
Disc
Hub
is necessary to achieve centralisation.
5 Centralisation is easily judged by removing the bar or screwdriver and viewing the driveplate hub in relation to the hole in the centre of the diaphragm spring. When the hub is exactly in the centre of the release bearing hole, all is correct. Alternatively, if an old input shaft can be borrowed this will eliminate all the guesswork as it will fit the bearing and centre of the clutch hub exactly, obviating the need of the visual alignment, (photo). 6 Tighten the clutch bolts firmly in a diagonal sequence to ensure that the cover plate is pulled evenly and without distortion of the flange. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque wrench setting.
Fig. 5.9. Aligning clutch disc and flywheel bearing
69
Chapter 5/Clutch
nn 9
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Fault diagnosis - clutch
linh Symptom
Reason/s
Ee engine or gearbox mountings worn friction surfaces or contaminated with oil splines on gearbox input shaft or driven plate hub input shaft spigot bush in flywheel
Judder when taking up drive
Loose Badly Worn Worn
meshed Clutch drag (failure to disengage) so that gears cannot be
Incorrectly adjusted clutch cable Driven plate sticking on input shaft splines due to rust. May occur after vehicle standing idle for long period Damaged or misaligned pressure plate assembly
Clutch slip (increase in engine speed does not result in crease in vehicle road speed - particularly on gradients)
Incorrectly adjusted clutch cable Friction surfaces worn out or oil contaminated
Noise evident on depressing clutch pedal
Dry, worn or damaged release bearing Insufficient pedal free-travel Weak or broken pedal return spring Weak or broken clutch release lever return spring
input shaft Excessive play between driven plate hub splines and splines
Noise evident as clutch pedal released
Distorted driven plate Broken or weak driven plate cushion coil springs Insufficient pedal free-play Weak or broken release lever return spring Distorted or worn input shaft
Chapter 6 Gearbox Contents
Counter gear - dismantling and reassembly _ ... Fault diagnosis - manual gearbox es ata Gearbox components - inspection _... ms
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General description Input shaft - dismantling Input shaft - reassembly
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Mainshaft - dismantling
Gearbox extension housing oil seal - romeivet: and riplacancnt
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Gearbox - removal and replacement... Gearbox - reassembly _... ei ®
Gearbox - dismantling
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Mainshaft - reassembly
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Synchro hubs- dismantling and inioeetion Synchro hubs- reassembly a
Specifications
Type
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4 forward speeds and reverse synchromesh on all forward gears.
Ratios First aa Second ... Third a Fourth... Reverse...
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3 imp pints (1.7 litres)
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S.A.E 80 Specified
Limit
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0.004 in (0.1 mm)
0.008 in (0.2 mm) 0.008 in (0.2 mm)
Speedometer gear teeth: Drive gear Drive gear: Saloon Estate
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Oil capacity
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Oil grade
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Dimensions and clearances: Gear backlash:
Input shaft... First, second and third gears.
Reverse gear
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Idler gear : Gear thrust clearance:
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0.004 in (0.1 mm)
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0.006 in (0.16 mm)
0.012 in (0.3 mm)
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0.007 in (0.18 mm)
0.012 in (0.3 mm)
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0.002 - 0.006 in
0.012 in (0.3 mm)
3rd gear to mainshaft flange
(0.05 - 0.15 mm)
2nd gear to mainshaft flange
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0.004 - 0.012 in
0.012 in (0.3 mm)
(0.10 - 0.25 mm)
1st gear to 1st gear bush flange...
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dia
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0.007 - 0.011 in (0.18 - 0.28 mm)
0.012 in (0.3 mm)
Mainshaft snap-ring thickness: Nol
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End of an Era
HEALEY The Handsome
Performance Tuning in Theory & Practice 4 stroke
restoration)
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ILLUSTRATED
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Piper Tuning Manual
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1911-1978
Rolls-Royce
John Cooper — Grand Prix Carpetbagger Lucky all my Life — the biography of Harry Weslake
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Jaguar Sports Cars
Post War British Thoroughbreds
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The Iron Redskin (history of the Indian motorcycle)
Jaguar Saloon
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Book of Motor-Caravanning | F237 F240| Book of Rallying
Drive It! The Complete
Gerry Marshall — Only here for the beer
Goldie — BSA Gold Star development
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MARTIN
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MG
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The Immortal T Series
THE PORSCHE oa
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Rolls-Royce, The history of the car The Power Behind Aston Martin
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of difficulty, they can be These books are available from all good accessory shops and bookshops; in case Please enclose cheque or obtained by post from: Haynes Publishing Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset. £1.50 for books over £5.00, to up books for £1 postal order for price of book as shown, and add postage:
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Viva! Alfa Romeo
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Don't Trudge It — Rudge It
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Tuning & Maintenance
1981
Book of Automobile
An Encyclopaedia
(paperback)
au ° = i ° | Seventy epic years of motor racing
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& Business
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Review
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Panorama
The Sunbeam
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GT Car
at Brooklands
The Complete
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The Story of the RAC International Rally
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