Haynes Toyota Carina Owners Workshop Manual 0856961507, 9780856961502

Citation preview

Toyota Carina

.

a

Owners

=

Workshop

47

+

Mianuall

erste

by J H Haynes Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and B L Chalmers-Hunt TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA Models covered

ia

arn 17, Dao

UK: USA:

Toyota Carina Saloon, 1588 cc Toyota Carina Sedan, 96.9 cu in

ISBN

a

2

0 85696

150 7

© JH Haynes and Company Limited 1975

oe.

All rights any form recording in writing

Kuno

reserved. or by any or by any from the

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.

Printedin England toes

BP

s

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD

YEOVIL

SOMERSET

distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

10

162

6797

AA

ENGLAND

| ee:WEST SUSSEX LIBRARIES

—S—

Fuel Tank

/

Wy //if

if

Front Fuel Tube

Fig. 3.30. Fuel lines and tank - Type 2 (Sec. 17) 4

a

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

5 The choke valve closes fully at an atmospheric temperature of 77° F (25° C) and one graduation of the scale on the thermo-

stat case is equal to a 99 F (5° C) change.

55

can be assumed that the voltage regulator is satisfactory. However, if neither operates then check the regulator as described in Chapter 10. 4 To check

the sender unit first disconnect the wire from the

15 Idle speed - basic adjustment

unit at the connector. Switch on the ignition and the gauge should read ‘Empty’. Now connect the lead to earth and the gauge should read ‘Full’. Allow 30 seconds for each reading.

1 With the engine at normal operating temperature screw the idle adjustment screw in as far as possible without using force

sender unit.

(Fig. 3.28). 2

Unscrew

it three

complete

turns

from

the

fully

closed

position.

5

lf both

the situations

are correct

then the fault lies in the

6 If the gauge does not read ‘Empty’ with the wire disconnected from fhe sender unit, the wire should then also be disconnected from the gauge to the sender unit.

7

\f not, the gauge is faulty and should be replaced. (For details

see Chapter 10.) 8

16 Carburettor - adjustments

With the wire disconnected from the sender unit and earthed,

if the gauge reads anything other than ‘Full’ check the rest of the

circuit (see Chapter 10 for the wiring diagram). To enable the carburettor to be correctly set

a vacuum gauge,

adaptor and electric tachometer are necessary. 1

Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temper-

ature. 2 3 4

Connect the tachometer and vacuum gauge. Adjust the engine idle speed, as described in Section 15. Turn the throttle adjustment and the idle adjustment screw

slowly

until

maximum

vacuum

9 Toremove the unit first remove the tank from the car. 10 Undo and remove the screws and spring washers securing the unit to the top of the tank. Lift away the unit taking care not to bend the wire arm. Recover the gasket. 11 Refitting the sender unit is the reverse sequence to removal. Always use a new gasket.

is obtained at the specified idling

speed (see Specifications). 5 Slowly screw in the idle adjustment

20 Exhaust emission control systems - general description

reached drop.

where

6 For Federal

engines operating Exhaust Emission

Vehicles being operated in areas controlled by the US Federal Regulations governing exhaust emissions must have their ancillary equipment modified and accurately tuned so that carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and nitrogen levels produced by the engine are within specified limits. To achieve this there are several systems used. Depending on the pollution standard required, the systems may be fitted either

the engine

speed

screw until the point is or vacuum level just begins to

in areas under control of the US Regulations, it will be necessary to

have the exhaust emission levels re-checked (see Section 2).

17 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair 1

With

time

it is likely that sediment

of the fuel tank.

Condensation,

will collect in the bottom

resulting

singly or as a combination of them all. The solution to the problem is achieved by modifying various parts of the engine and fuel supply system as will be seen in subsequent Sections.

in rust and other im-

purities is sometimes found in the fuel tank. 2 When the tank is removed, it should be rigorously flushed out and turned upside down, and if facilities are available, steam cleaned.

3 Repairs to the fuel tank to stop leaks are best carried out using resin adhesive and hardeners as supplied by most accessory shops. In cases of repairs being done to large areas, glass fibre mats or perforated zinc sheet may be required to give the area support. If any soldering, welding or brazing is contemplated, the tank must be steamed out to remove any traces of fuel vapour. It is extremely dangerous to use naked flames or heat tools on a fuel tank without this precaution, even though the tank may have been ‘empty’ for a considerable time.

18 Fuel pipes and lines - general

1

Check

all flexible

hoses

for signs of perishing,

cracking

or

damage and replace if necessary. 2 Carefully inspect all metal fuel pipes for signs of corrosion, cracking, kinking or distortion and replace any pipe that is suspect. These pipes are clipped to the underbody.

19 Fuel gauge sender unit - fault diagnosis 1

The

sender

unit

is mounted

on

the fuel tank

and

access is

gained once the tank has been removed. This is a straightforward operation. 2 \f the fuel gauge does not work correctly then the fault is either in the sender unit, the gauge in the instrument panel, the wiring or the voltage regulator. 3 First test for operation, switch on the ignition and observe if

the fuel and temperature gauges operate. If only one operates it

Fig. 3.31. Accelerator linkage Accelerator pedal support bracket Accelerator pedal Accelerator pedal rod support bearing 4 Torsion spring 5 Accelerator pedal rod sub-assembly 6 Accelerator connecting rod sub-assembly ip Accelerator connecting rod boot 8 Accelerator link rod bracket, No.1 9 Accelerator link rod sub-assembly 10 Accelerator link rod bracket, No.2 11. Accelerator connecting rod 7

2 3

12 13 14

Accelerator connecting rod end Accelerator torque rod bracket sub-assembly Accelerator torque rod sub-assembly

56 1G Switeh

Air Cleaner

il} ahi]

Fuse

(Turn)

(BY)

|

Ventilation Hose

a

7

an

f

°)

rly

x

T 1

|

8

f

C

Remarks Computor

When |

position

| |

(we) i

a

the VSV

|

Valve

the V the

in OF F aur

flows

between the air passages of A and B also C and D While

a

1s in ON

position

the air flow is cut off

|

The air does not flow between the passage of C and E

|

= +e ae

=

When the VSV position

the

1s in ON aw

flows

between the air passages of D .

.

Ventilation

|

and € also F and G

|

Hose

the VSV

|

the air is cut off

ea

oe

>= sae

—= 7

= € 3

= z||

3s

e

:

TG)

3

s||= =

=

al)

°S|)

L

|

fee!

\

—————

OO

Computor

Q7

A Distributor

RS U

(BLUE/WHITE) for TP (RED/BLUE)

a)

ai

Asayieg

Throttle Positioner

eet |

=e

| —

= r) eat

(

Check Valve

Charcoal Canister

Fuel Tank

Safety Type Cap

A Fig. 3.34. Engine connections - full emission control system - Part 2

/

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

21 Mixture control system (emission control system)

With the engine under sudden deceleration conditions the air intake will become insufficient and cause incomplete com bustion of the fuel. This will result in a greater emission of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. A mixture control valve is fitted and designed to open momentarily and allow fresh air to enter the inlet manifold under these conditions thereby ensuring complete combustion. When the engine is idling or running at a low speed a speed sensor will emit a signal and the current from a computor will stop, thus switching off the vacuum valve. The vacuum valve will remain

closed,

rendering

the

mixture

control

valve

inoperative.

Under normal running at medium and high speeds, signals from a speed sensor will allow current to flow from the computor to the vacuum switching valve, opening the valve and allowing a free passage from the mixture control valve sensing

M.C, Valve Intake Manifold

57

hose to the inlet manifold. This condition will remain as longas there is no sudden change in the inlet manifold vacuum. The pressures at both sides of the valve diaphragm will remain equal because of the regulating port connecting the upper and lower diaphragm chambers. If the car is suddenly decelerated from a high speed when the

vacuum switching valve is open, the mixture control valve will open, momentarily, and allow fresh air to enter into the manifold. The pressures on both sides of the diaphragm becomes equal quickly through the regulating port. The diaphragm is then returned by the return spring so that the mixture control valve remains open, momentarily, when the car is suddenly decelerated. To check the operation of the system requires the use of special equipment but a round check can be made by starting the engine and seeing if there is a momentary vacuum at the inlet

when control

the engine is decelerated. system

[a

is in operation.

Computor

Fig. 3.37. Mixture control system - sudden decelleration (Sec. 21)

This will show Use the hand

if the mixture

for this but take

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

58 care

as the fingers will be near the fan. To achieve best results

the

rear

of the

car

should

be jacked

up and

the

rear

wheels

driven. Alternatively, detach the vacuum sensing hose at the vacuum switch valve and suck the vacuum sensing hose with the mouth. lf air can be drawn into the mixture valve for a second or so the valve is satisfactory. If this cannot be done the valve should be renewed.

22 Transmission

controlled

spark

system

(emission

control

system) The objective of this system is to control the release of nitrogen oxides contained in the exhaust gases to a minimal level. It comprises a computer and other components which regulate the ignition vacuum advance by monitoring the speed of the car and engine coolant temperature. No regular maintenance is called for but in the event of a suspected malfunction test the

TO VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE

components in the following manner:

A

TO INTAKE MANIFOLD

Distributor diaphragm unit and TCS on/off test

1 To test that the distributor vacuum diaphragm is in good order run the engine to normal operating temperature. Raise the rear wheels and support the rear axle on stands. Securely chock the front wheels. 2 Accelerate the engine and have an assistant note the movement of the vernier adjuster on the distributor body. The TCS

alters the distributor advance characteristics when

the car ‘road’

speed is between 16-62 mph (26-100 kph); the distributor should appear as shown

Keep fingers away from fan.

in diagram ‘A’ (Fig. 3.40) between these speeds

and as diagram ‘B’ when below or above this speed range and the distributor advance mechanism is working normally. This testing procedure

Fig. 3.38. Testing operation of mixture control system (Sec. 21)

also

proves

the on/off

positions

of the system

as a

whole. 3 An alternative method which is also less dangerous, as it does not require the jacking-up of the rear wheels for speed testing, is to remove the hoses from the nozzles ‘F’ and ‘G’ of the vacuum switching

valve and

in their place connect

two

vacuum

gauges

which can be seen by the driver. 4 Road test the car and when the engine is at its normal operating temperature note the operation of the vacuum gauges. 5 The main disadvantage of this last method is that it does not

Computer

indicate the condition of the distributor diaphragm unit.

B 1

Vacuum switching valve Check

the vacuum

switching valve for leaks by blowing air or

smoke (cigarette smoke) through the nozzles. 2 Check the vacuum switching valve electrically by unpluging the connector and then using a circuit tester check for shorting

Vacuum switching valve Thermo

between each of the connector plug terminals in turn and the vacuum switching valve casing. 3 Test for open circuit by checking the resistance between the connector plug (+) terminal and each of the terminals in turn,

the resistance should be 28.0 ohms.

sensor

Fig. 3.39. Transmission controlled spark system (Sec. 22)

C

Thermo sensor test The thermo

T.C:S.

(ON

sensor

is screwed

into the base of the cooling

eGo, OFF

Vacuum Advance Cut

Vacuum

Advance

Vacuum

Advance

Original set Line Vacuum

Advance Cut & Vacuum

Retard

+—

Vacuum

a

Atmosphere

a

Fig. 3.40. Movement of distributor octane selector (Sec. 22)

B

y, system

thermostat

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems housing

and

it should

only

be removed

if

essential. Test by connecting a circuit tester when a resistance of between 15 and 30 kilo-ohms should be registered. When the engine is cold, or approximately operating temperature.

D

2 kilo-ohms with the engine at

Computer and speed sensor

1 It will be appreciated that if the tests described in part ‘A’ of this Section have proved positive then there cannot be a fault in either the Computer or Speed Sensor units. Where, however, the distributor, the Vacuum Switching Valve and the Thermo Sensor have been individually tested as described, but the TCS system still operates incorrectly then the fauit must be in the computer or speed sensor. 2 The cemputer unit can only be tested by the local Toyota dealer or by substitution of another unit. 3 The Speed Sensor operates by the action of the speedometer head. Correct functioning can be checked by pulling out the speed marker relay connector and connecting a circuit tester

(Fig. 3.41).

Disconnect

the speedometer

drive

at the trans-

mission housing and turn the cable by hand observing that there are six on/off cycles for each revolution of the cable. If this is not the case, renew the speedometer head. 4 Having carried out all the preceeding checks and tests, any component

which

fails

must

be

renewed

as a unit,

no

59

Checking the operation of the system should be entrusted to the local Toyota deater. However, a quick check may be made by the owner. When the positioner diaphragm is held in the return position by the spring the system is ‘on’ whereas the system is ‘off’ when the positioner is released from the throttle link due to vacuum acting on the positioner diaphragm. If a vacuum gauge and long hose are available disconnect the positioner diaphragm hose from the vacuum switching valve and connect the vacuum gauge hese in its place. Connect the other end of the hose to the gauge. Drive the car throughout its operating range and check that during operation when a vacuum is indicated on the gauge, the throttle positioner is ‘off’. When there is nc vacuum the system is ‘on’.

24 Charcoal canister storage system (emission contre! system) The charcoal canister storage system is designed to lead the petrol vapours in the fuel system into the inlet manifold and its operation is shown in Fig. 3.44. Its operation is very reliable but

there are several points that should be checked during maintenance service.

repair

SPEEDOMETER

CABLE

being possible. WIRE HARNESS SIDE CONNECTOR (for Computor)

23 Throttle positioner system (emission control system)

— ZA

y SPEED

computer

———

i

When the engine is decelerated the air/fuel mixture supply becomes insufficient, causing incomplete combustion in the engine and allowing a greater discharge of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. To cope with this condition, a throttle positioner is fitted to open the throttle valve slightly more than at idling speed when the engine is being decelerated. By slightly increasing the air/fuel supply at this time, complete combustion will take place to minimise carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. During medium and high speed motoring the speed sensor signal allows the vacuum switching valve to be energised by the

SENSOR

=

=>

i

ar)

Fig. 3.41. Checking speed sensor (Sec. 22)

Throttle valve

which causes the valve to open so enabling fresh air

to be led into the positioner diaphragm. The positioner is then set by the tension of the return spring. When the accelerator

pedal and

is released the throttle valve strikes against the positioner being

unable

to return

to the full idling position

remains

slightly open. When the car is driven at low speed a signal from the speed sensor actuates the computer, this in turn sends a current to the vacuum switching valve, causing the vacuum switching valve to be closed and the valve shut off. This allows the inlet manifold vacuum to act on the positioner diaphragm and release the positioner from the throttle valve. The throttle valve then returns to its idling speed position.

Vacuum

switching valve

Computer

Fig. 3.42. Throttle positioner system (Sec. 23)

Vacuum

Atmosphere

Fig. 3.43. Operation of throttle

positioner (Sec. 23)

=)

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

60

Intake Manifold

Safety Type Cap

Vacuum Siwthcing Valve

Fuel Tank

Check Valve

Charcoal Canister

Fig. 3.44. Charcoal canister storage system (Sec. 24)

Safety Type Cap

CHARCOAL

CANISTER

SIDE

Fig. 3.46. Exhaust system

Fig. 3.45. Check valve and safety cap

(Sec. 24) 1 Carefully examine the fuel tank for damage, corrosion or leaks. Rectify any fault found. Check the air-tightness of the fuel tank safety cap. 2 Inspect the thermal expansion tank to ensure that it is not cracked or deformed.

Exhaust.pipe support bracket Exhaust pipe gasket Front exhaust pipe assembly No. 1 exhaust pipe support Exhaust pipe gasket Exhaust pipe centre section No. pipe support Tail 2 pexhaust i bl ANAARWHY ail pipe assembly

3 Disconnect the canister and inspect for signs of blockage. Clean if necessary with an air jet. 4 Check all hoses and clips for security. Renew any hoses that have deteriorated.

ao

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

61

Fig. 3.47. Exhaust manifold and attachments Automatic choke stove inlet pipe

2 3

Exhaust manifold gasket Exhaust manifold

4 5

Stud Union choke stove

6 7

Automatic outlet pipe Clamp

Fig. 3.48. Inlet manifold and attachments

7 . Stove inlet hose

4

Intake manifold

2 3

5 6

Water bypass gasket Water bypass outlet

Elbow Automatic stove inlet pipe

7

sub-assembly

8

Plug

Automatic stove outlet sub-assembly

39

Intake manifold to head gasket

25 Fault diagnosis - carburation; fuel and emission control systems Unsatisfactory engine performance and excessive fuel consumption are not necessarily the fault of the fuel sy$tem or carburettor. In fact, they more commonly occur as a result of ignition faults. Before acting on the fuel system it is necessary to check the ignition system first. Even though a fault may lie in the fuel system it will be difficult to trace unless the ignition system is correct.

This table may

also be read in conjunction with the chart applicable to exhaust emission control models.

Symptom

Reason/s

Smell of petrol when engine is stopped

Leaking fuel lines or unions Leaking fuel tank

Smell of petrol when engine is idling

Leaking fuel line unions between pump and carburettor

Overflow of fuel from float chamber due to wrong level setting or ineffective needle valve or punctured float

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

62

Symptom

Reason/s

a

Excessive fuel consumption float chamber faults

for reasons not covered by leaks or

Difficult starting, uneven running, lack of power, cutting out

Worn needle valve Sticking needle One or more blockages Float chamber fuel level too low or needle sticking Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel Inlet manifold gaskets leaking, or manifold fractured

Fault diagnosis - exhaust emission control system

When trouble is being experienced with the fuel system it is recommended that if possible the car be taken to the local Toyota garage. The reason for this is that quite often a fuel system problem does not necessarily originate from the fuel system but from a fault in the ignition or cooling systems or their controls. To find the cause quickly requires the use of test equipment which the average owner driver does not possess. The following chart covers some of the more common symptoms and causes to assist the owner in cases where expert advice is not immediately available.

Symptom

Reason/s

Engine loss of power

Insufficient engine compression Valve adjustment incorrect

Air cleaner blocked Ignition timing incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Engine difficult to start (Ignition system)

(Fuel system)

Poor acceleration or misfiring and backfiring on deceleration

(Ignition system) (Fuel system)

Discharged battery Ignition timing incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Spark plugs gap incorrect or dirty Automatic choke operation incorrect Carburettor adjustment incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Ignition timing incorrect Ignition cable resistance incorrect Carburettor adjustment incorrect

Blockage in fuel system Idling rough

Air cleaner blocked

Ignition system malfunction Fuel system malfunction PCV ventilation hoses cracked or connections defective Malfunction in inlet or exhaust system Valve adjustment incorrect Leaks in manifold or valves

Engine runs on when ignition system switched off

Incorrect spark plugs Idle speed too fast

Ignition timing incorrect Engine/cooling system overheating Too low grade of fuel Petrol smells

Petrol leak from evaporative emission control system Petrol leak at carburettor Petrol leak from tank or lines

Blow-by gas smells

PCV system hose disconnected or cracked

Excessive fuel consumption

Malfunction in TCS system Malfunction in ignition system Malfunction in fuel system

a

Chapter 4 Ignition system Contents

Condenser - removal, testing and replacement Contact breaker points - adjustment

...

Contact breaker points - removal and replacement

ons

Distributor - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly. Distributor - lubrication Distributor - removal Distributor - replacement

Emission control legislation and its effect on d-i-y adjustments and repairs a ee sen rt : 444546

47 48 49 5755 . 6.3. Gearbox

59

internal components

Gear thrust cone spring Shaft snap ring

Needle roller bearing Ball

Radial ball bearing

First gear bushing

571

Radial ball bearing Reverse gear bushing Reverse gear Transmission clutch hub No. 3 Transmission hub sleeve No. 3 Spacer Spacer Shim Nut

52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59

Input shaft Roller Hole snap ring Shaft snap ring Synchroniser ring No. 1 Synchromesh shifting key spring No. 1 OANAAAWH™ Synchromesh shifting key spring No.1 Transmission clutch hub No.2 Transmission hub sleeve No.2 Third gear sub-assembly Second gear sub-assembly Synchroniser ring No.2 Synchromesh shifting key spring No.1 Synchromesh shifting key No.1 Transmission clutch hub No.7 Transmission hub sleeve No.7 First gear sub-assembly

58

49 50

Radial ball bearing Counter gear Ball Cylindrical roller bearing Countershaft reverse gear Shaft snap ring Reverse idler gear thrust washer

Reverse idler gear Bimetal formed bushing Reverse idler gear shaft Shaft retaining bolt

Shaft snap ring Bal!

Speedometer drive gear Shim Gear thrust cone spring Mainshaft Washer with bolt Plate washer

A

83

Fig. 6.4. Gearbox extension housing assembly Slotted spring pin Selector fork No. 1 Spring seat

Spring Ball bearing Selector fork No. 2 Selector fork No. 3 Pin DOANDAARWH™ Selector rod No.

1 Selector rod No. 2 Selector rod No. 3 Gasket Dowel Extension housing Bolt and washer Bush

Oil seal Dust cover Boot Bush Gasket Selector return plate Bolt

Spring Spring seat Knob

Gearchange lever Retainer Spring Ball Shaft Bush Gasket

84

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

4 Refer to Chapter 2, and drain the cooling system. Slacken the radiator top hose clips and remove the top hose. 5 Working inside the car undo and remove the console securing screws. There are two each side of the moulding. (photo) 6 Unscrew the gearchange lever knob. (photo) 7 Untie the leather thong at the top of the gearchange lever

gaiter and lift away the console. (photo) 8 These photos (2.8A and 2.8B) show console mounting brackets. 9 Undo and remove the screws

the location

securing the gearchange

of the lever

be necessary

to disconnect

the small

pipe located

at the front

end of the manifold. (photo) 21 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the starter motor solenoid. Disconnect the cables. (photo)

22 Undo and remove the bolts securing the starter motor to the engine backplate. Draw the starter motor forwards and lift away from the side of the engine. (photo) 23 Working under thé car again, disconnect the clutch release arm return spring. 24 Undo and remove

the two

bolts and spring washers

securing

rubber gaiter retaining plate. (photo)

the clutch slave cylinder to the side of the clutch housing. Tie

10 Slide the rubber gaiter and retaining plate up, and away from,

the cylinder back to one side. (photo)

the gearchange lever. (photo)

25 Unscrew the speedometer cable knurled nut from the side of the gearbox extension housing. Draw the cable from the drive

11 Slide the rubber gromment up the gearchange lever. (photo) 12 Undo and remove the four screws securing the gearchange lever to the top of the extension housing. The gearchange lever

gear assembly. (photo) 26 Take

care

not to lose the little felt seal at the end of the

may now be lifted up, and away. (photo)

cable. (photo)

13 Working

27 Disconnect the reverse light switch cable. 28 Support the weight of the rear of the engine with a small jack and then undo and remove the gearbox to crossmember

under

the car,

mark

the relative positions of the

propeller shaft and pinion companion flanges so that they may be refitted in their original positions. Undo and remove the four securing nuts and bolts and separate the two flanges. (photo)

14 Draw the propeller shaft rearwards from the rear of the gearbox and withdraw the propeller shaft from under the car. (photo) 15 Soak the silencer and exhaust pipe flange securing bolts in penetrating oil. Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts and separate

the joint. Tie the exhaust

pipe back,

out of the way.

(photo) ‘16 Undo and remove

the twin exhaust

pipe clamp securing bolt

and separate the clamp halves. (photo) 17 Undo

and

remove

the nuts and

back

the

lockwasher

four securing bolts (two each away the crossmember. (photo)

tabs and undo

end

and

remove

of the crossmember).

the

Lift

30 Lower the engine support jack a little to give access to the clutch bellhousing top securing bolts. F 31 Undo and remove the remaining bolts, spring washers and nuts securing the clutch bellhousing to the rear of the engine.

(photo) bolts secuirng

the exhaust

downpipe to the exhaust manifold. (photo) 18 Lift away the front half of the exhaust system. (photo) 19 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the 20 It is now necessary to remove the better access to the starter motor. Undo bolts, nuts and washers. Lift away the

2.8a Console front mounting bracket

mounting securing bolts. (photo) 29 Bend

air cleaner. exhaust manifold to gain and remove the securing exhaust manifold. It will

32 Check that all gearbox attachments have then with the help of a second person take gearbox. 33 Lower the engine support jack further until clearance between the top of the bellhousing of the body. 34 Ease the gearbox rearwards ensuring that

2.8b Console rear mounting bracket

been released and the weight of the there is sufficient and the underside

the weight of the

2.9 Removal of gearchange lever rubber gaiter retaining plate

:

ee

2.10 Removal of rubber gaiter and rewint

ST

2.13 Disconnecting propeller shaft from

2.14 Detaching propeller shaft from gear-

rear axle

box

> x . 2.16 Exhaust downpipe support bracket-

..... 2.17 Exhaust downpipe to manifold attachment

%

2.20 Removal of exhaust manifold

2

2.15 Disconnecting silencer from exhaust pipe

; _ 2.18 Lifting away exhaust system front half

2.28 Crossmember centre mounting bolts removal

2.25 Speedometer cable released from gear box

2.26 Felt seal at end of speedometer cable

2.29 Removal of crossmember securing bolts

2.31 Clutch bellhousing securing bolt removal

Bele

OS,

.

ER,

3.2 Clutch release arm removal

a

3.5 Clutch bellhousing removal

ea

3.6 These washers must not be misplaced

3.3 Front bearing retainer removal

»

3.7 Lifting away gearchange lever retainer

yi unit

is not supported

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission on

the

input shaft

which

is easily

bent.

(photo) 35 Finally lift the gearbox away from under the car. 36 Before any work is carried out on the gearbox it should be thoroughly washed in paraffin or Gunk and dried using a non-fluffy rag. 37 Replacement is the reverse sequence to removal. Do not forget to refill the gearbox with the recommended grade of oil.

3

retaining clips. Remove the release bearing assembly. 2 Remove the release arm from inside the clutch bellhousing.

(photo) 3 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the front bearing retainer to the inner face of the clutch bellhousing. Slide the retainer from the input shaft. (photo) 4 Recover the paper gasket from the retainer or bellhousing face.

5 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers that secure the clutch bellhousing to the front face of the main casing. Lift

Manual gearbox - dismantling

away the bellhousing.

6 Place the complete

unit on a firm bench and ensure that you

have the following tools spanners etc.,) available. a)

(in addition

to a normal

range

Good quality circlip pliers - 2 pairs (1 expanding and

(photo)

Recover the gasket.

Note the location of the washers which will be exposed when

the clutch bellhousing is removed. (photos 3:5 and 3:6).

of

7 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the gearchange lever retainer to the upper face of the extension housing. Lift away the retainer and recover the gasket. Note the

7 con-

two locating dowels. (photo) 8 Undo and remove the bolt, spring washer and clip retaining

tracting). b) Copper head mallet - at least 2 Ibs. c) Drifts - steel 3/8 inch, and brass 3/8 inch. d) Small containers. e)

87

the speedometer driven gear assembly to the extension housing. 9 Using a screwdriver carefully ease the assembly from its

location in the extension housing. (photos) 10 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the

Engineer’s vice mounted on firm bench.

Any attempt to dismantle the gearbox without the foregoing is not necessarily impossible, but will certainly be very difficult and inconvenient resulting in possible injury or damage. Read the whole of this Section before starting work. Take care not to let the synchromesh hub assemblies come apart before you want them to. It accelerates wear if the splines of hub and sleeve are changed in relation to each other. As a precaution it is advisable to make a line or mark showing the relative position of hub and sleeve with a dab of paint.

Before finally going ahead with dismantling first ascertain the availability of spare parts - particularly shims, which could be difficult. 1 Remove the clutch release bearing carrier to release arm

extension housing to the main casing. Draw the extension housing rearwards and recover the gasket. (photo) 11 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the

two halves of the gearbox main casing. (Fig. 6.5). 12 Tap

the

joint

to

release

it

and

lift

away

the

13 No gasket is used between these two mating faces.

14 This photo (3.14) shows the layout of the main casing half with the gear trains, selector rods and forks fitted. 15 Carefully

recover the ball bearing

located

in the central web.

(photo) 16 Gently

tap

the

countershaft

assembly

hammer and lift up from the main casing half. 17 Carefully remove the ball bearing from

with

the

a

3.9b Lifting away speedometer drive

assembly

Ss

3.12 Parting the two halves of main casing

3.14 Layout of gear trains in main casing half

soft

faced

countershaft

a

3.9a Easing out speedometer drive assembly

upper

main casing half. (photo)

3.15 Do not lose this ball bearing

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

88

bearing outer track. (photo) 18 Lift away the countershaft assembly. (photo) 19 The mainshaft and input shaft may now be lifted away from

the main casing half. (photo) 20 If necessary

undo

and

remove

the bolt and spring washer

securing the reverse idler gearshaft. 21 Carefully tap out the idler gear shaft and recover the gear and

thrust washers. (photo) 22 The

gearbox

may

now

be

considered

to

be

dismantled.

Normally it will not be necessary to remove the selector forks and rods. Should it be desirable to remove these parts, note the relative positions of the selector forks and rods and tap out the fork retaining spring pins using a suitable diameter parallel pin punch. Draw out the selector rods and recover the two pins, ball

bearing, spring and spring seat. (photo) 23 Thoroughly flush out the interior of the casing halves with paraffin and wipe dry with a non-fluffy rag.

Fig. 6.5. Main casing halves securing bolts. Note differences in

length between bolts1, 2, 3, 4 (Sec. 3)

4

Input shaft (manual gearbox) - dismantling

1

Draw

the

input

shaft

from

the

front

of

the

mainshaft.

(photo) 2 The shaft and bearing are located in the front of the main casing by a large circlip in the outer track of the bearing. 3

To renew the bearing first remove the circlip from the end of

the bearing. 4 Place the outer track of the race on the top of a firm bench vice and drive the input shaft through the bearing. Note that the bearing is fitted with the circlip groove towards the forward end of the input shaft. Lift away the bearing. 5 To remove the spigot bearing needle rollers, use a pair of circlip pliers or a small screwdriver and release the circlip. 6 Lift away the needle rollers from the end of the input shaft.

(photo)

SER

=

5

Mainshaft (manual gearbox) - dismantling

1

Remove the circlip from the front of the mainshaft. (photo)

2

Using

a

screwdriver

detach

the

top

gear

synchroniser

assembly. (photo)

Fig. 6.6. Tapping out slotted spring pin (Sec. 3)

3

Using a pair of circlip pliers remove

the circlip from the rear

end of the mainshaft. (photo)

Shaft No. 1

Shaft No. 2

__WfS _ NN :

u

Shaft No. 3

Fig. 6.7. Location of pins between selector shafts (Sec. 3)

3.17 Ball race outer track locking ball

4 Carefully tap the speedometer drive-gear from the mainshaft. Recover the ball bearing from the hole in the mainshaft. (photo) 5 Remove the second circlip from the rear end of the mainshaft.

6 Hold the mainshaft firmly in the vice and unscrew the large nut. 7

Slide the nut, shim and spacer from the end of the mainshaft.

(photo) 8 Slide the metal disc from the roainehatt noting which way round it is fitted. (photo) 9 Hold the mainshaft as shown in this photo (5.9) and tap the

3.18 Lifting away countershaft assembly

3.19 Lifting away input shaft and mainshaft

3.21 Reverse idler mounted in main casing half

y

IO

4.6 Needle

3.22 Main casing half with selector shafts and forks

:

rollers in end of input shaft

.

a

¢

4.1 Lifting away input shaft

——_ -

5.1 Circlip removal from front of main-

5.2 Sliding off top gear synchroniser

shaft

assembly

: _ _ 5.3 Removing circlip from rear of speed-

— 5.4 Removing speedometer drive gear.

ae . 5.7 Removing nut, shim and spacer from

ometer drive gear

Note the ball bearing in the mainshaft

mainshaft

5.8 Removal of metal disc

5.9 Removal of reverse gear assembly

5.10 Lifting away reverse gear assembly

Py ail

ee eae

‘

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

90

.

= oo

ae

-

12.9 Refitting metal disc, shim, spacer

12.11 Refitting speedometer drive gear

and nut

13.4 Mainshaft and input shaft fitted to main casing haif

SESE

NS

i

%

13.5 Refitting countershaft to main cas-

13.9 Lowering extensi on housing into

ing half

position

ES

%

:

13.11 Refitting gearchange lever retainer

if

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

rectified:

housing and retain with the bolt, spring washer and clip. Tighten new

First gear Second gear Third gear

the bolt to a torque wrench setting of 3-5 Ib f ft (0.4-0.7 kg f m).

maximum

11 Fit a new gasket to the gearchange lever retainer mating face

_—_0.004-0.010in (0.10-0.25mm) 0.020in (0.5mm) 0.006-0.010in 0.006-0.012in

and

(0.15-0.25mm) 0.020in (0.5mm) (0.15-0.30mm) 0.024in (0.6mm)

12 Turn the gearbox

ee

Secure

with the four bolts and spring

setting

on end and position the washers and cones

the securing bolts to a torque (3-4.5 kg f m).

13 Manual gearbox - reassembly 1 If the selector forks and rods have been removed these should be refitted. This is a direct reversal of the removal procedure. 2 Hold the reverse idler gear and thrust washers in Position in the half casing and slide in the reverse idler shaft. Line up the bolt hole and refit the bolt and spring washer. Tighten the

bolt to a torque wrench setting of 10-13 Ib f ft (1.3-1.8 kg f m). 3 Check the reverse idler thrust clearance which should be 0.002-0.020 in (0.05-0.50 mm) with a maximum limit of 0.039

in (1.0 mm).

the main casing halves clean, carefully

retainer.

of 7.2-11.6 Ib f ft (1-1.6 kg f m). (photo)

—_—__ereeooo

With

the

onto the end of the countershaft and input shaft. 13 Fit a new gasket and replace the clutch bellhousing. Tighten

eee

4

replace

washers - which should be tightened to a torque wrench

Reverse gear 0.008-0.012in (0.20-0.30mm) 0.024in (0.6mm)

dowel

93

lower the main-

wrench

setting of 22-33 Ib f ft

14 Inspect the input shaft bearing retainer oil seal and if worn ease out the old oil seal. Fit a new seal using a suitable diameter drift. 15 Fit a new gasket to the clutch bellhousing and replace the

input shaft bearing retainer. (photo) 16 Replace the four bolts and spring washers. Tighten to a torque wrench setting of 7.2-11.6 Ib f ft (1.0-1.6 kg f m). 17 Refit the clutch release arm and bearing carrier and secure

with the two spring clips. (photo) 18 The gearbox is now ready for refitting to the car. Do not forget to refill the gearbox with the recommended grade of oil.

shaft into position. (photo) 5

Follow

the mainshaft

with

the countershaft.

Do not forget

the ball race outer track ball bearing. (photo)

14 Extension housing oil seal (manual gearbox) - removal and

6 Fit the ball bearing to the hole in the central web. 7 Smear a little sealer onto the mating face of the main gearbox casing with the exception of an area of 0.5 in (13 mm) around the reverse light switch. 8 Carefully fit the two halves of the main casing and refit the securing bolts and spring washers. Tighten in a progressive and diagonal manner to a final torque wrench setting of 10.9-14.5 Ib f ft (1.50-2.00 kg f m). 9 Fit a new gasket to the extension housing mating face and

replacement

carefully

lower

into

position.

Tighten

the securing

bolts

to a

torque wrench setting of 22-23 Ib f ft (3.0-4.5 kg f m). (photo) 10 Refit

the

speedometer

driven

assembly

to

the

extension

1 This oil seal may be removed with the gearbox either in or out of the car. 2 Refer to Chapter 7, and remove the propeller shaft. 3 Wipe the area around the rear of the extension housing and with a screwdriver or small chisel carefully dismantle the old oil seal taking care not to damage the extension housing casting. To give better access the dust shield may be tapped off the end of the extension housing. 4 The new oil seal may be fitted, lip facing inwards using a suitable diameter tubular drift.

Fig. 6.13. Reverse idler gear assembly and checking endfloat

(Sec. 13)

: A MMMM SST —

RT

RT

Fig. 6.12. Measurement points for thrust clearances (Sec. 13)

Fig. 6.14. Washer and cone location between clutch housing and

main casing (Sec. 13)

94

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

—_.

4

4

ce

13.17 Refitting clutch release arm

13.15 Replacing input shaft bearing retainer

15 Fault diagnosis - manual gearbox Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Weak or ineffective synchromesh

Synchronising cones worn, split or damaged

Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Fit new gear wheels and synchronising cones. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Fit new synchromesh unit.

Synchromesh

Jumps out of gear

dogs worn, or damaged

Broken gearchange fork rod spring Gearbox coupling dogs badly worn Selector fork rod groove badly worn

Excessive noise

Dismantle and replace spring. Dismantle gearbox. Fit new coupling dogs. Fit new selector fork rod.

Incorrect grade of oil in gearbox or oil level

Drain, refill, or top up gearbox with correct

too low

grade of oil.

Bush or needle roller bearings worn damaged Gearteeth excessively worn or damaged Laygear thrust washers cessive end play Excessive difficulty in engaging gear

worn

allowing

Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect

or

ex-

Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Renew gear wheels. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Renew thrust washers. Adjust clutch pedal correctly.

16 Automatic transmission - general description The Toyoglide automatic transmission takes the place of the clutch and manual gearbox, which are, of course, mounted behind the engine. The system comprises two main components:

1

A

three

element

hydrokinetic

capable of torque multiplication between 2.4: 1 and1: 1.

torque

converter

at an infinitely

coupling,

variable

ratio

2 A torque/speed responsive and hydraulically operated epicyclic gearbox comprising a pianetary gearset providing three forward ratios and one reverse ratio. Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission unit, if performance is not up to standard, or overhaul is necessary, it is imperative that this be left to the local Toyota main dealers who will have the special equipment for fault diagnosis and rectification.

The

content

of the following Sections is therefore confined

to supplying general information and any service and instruction that can be used by the owner.

information

993

Fig. 6.15. The automatic transmission unit

y

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

1 Open the engine compartment lid and place an old blanket over the wings to prevent accidental scratching of the paintwork. 2 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Raise the car and

17 Automatic transmission - fluid level check and refilling 1

With the engine at its normal

selector

operating temperature

move

the

place on axle stands if a ramp is not available. The higher the car

lever through all positions from ‘P’ to ‘L’ and stop in the

is off the ground the easier it will be to work underneath. 3 Undo and remove the transmission drain plug and drain the fluid into a suitable sized container. When all the fluid has drained out replace the drain plug. If the car has just been run,

‘N’ position.

2

With

the engine running

wipe clean and replace. necessary top-up with the 3 If the unit has been new fluid is used to refill reaches the ‘HIGH’ mark fluid required will depend after draining.

at idle speed remove

the dipstick,

Quickly withdraw it again and if recommended type of fluid. drained, it is recommended that only it. Gradually fill the unit until the fluid on the dipstick. The exact amount of on how much was left in the converter

take extreme care because the oil will be very hot. 4 Refer to Chapter 2, and drain the cooling system. Slacken the radiator top hose clips and remove the top hose.

5

refitted in their original positions. Undo and remove securing nuts and bolts and separate the two flanges.

mud.

18 Automatic transmission

Any

suspected before

the

must

be

is removed,

referred as with

to

a Toyota

this type

separate the joint. Tie the exhaust pipe back, out of the way. 9 Undo and remove the twin exhaust pipe clamp securing bolt and separate the clamp halves.

main

of trans-

mission the fault diagnosis must be confirmed, using specialist equipment whilst the car is on the road and the transmission unit in use.

10 Undo and remove the nuts and downpipe to the exhaust manifold.

bolts securing

Turbine yf runner

One-way clutch

=|

Engine| +}2a =

_ Spline Spline for input shaft. Fig. 6.17. Principle of torque converter operation

Fig. 6.16. Torque converter components

Intermediate shaft Front Front clutch brake band

Center Support

| One-way clutch

Rear brake band Vy, ens:

pinion

Output shaft

~~ Front. multiple clutch

Rear multiple clutch

the four

7 Draw the propeller shaft rearwards from the rear of the gearbox and withdraw the propeller shaft from under the car. 8 Soak the silencer and exhaust pipe flange securing bolts in penetrating oil. Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts and

unit - removal and replacement

faults unit

Working under the bonnet disconnect and remove the engine

torque rod and support. 6 Now under the car mark the relative positions of the propeller shaft and pinion companion flanges so that they may be

4 To ensure adequate cooling the exterior of the converter housing and gearbox should always be kept clean of dust or

dealer

95

Rear clutch drum

/ Second sun gear

First

Planetary

an

reverse drum

Fig. 6.18. Automatic transmission planetary gear unit

carrier

Long

pinion

the exhaust

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

96 a

11 Lift away the front half of the exhaust system. 12 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the air cleaner. 13 It is now necessary to remove the exhaust manifold

to gain

8

Move the selector lever to the ‘P’ position.

9

Move the parking lock shaft to the locked position.

10 Tighten the parking lock rod swivel locknuts.

better access to the starter motor. Undo and remove the securing bolts, nuts and washers. Lift away the exhaust manifold. It will be necessary to disconnect end of the manifold.

the small

pipe located

at the front

14 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the starter motor solenoid and then disconnect the cables. 15 Undo and remove the bolts securing the starter motor to the engine backplate.

Draw the starter motor forwards and lift away

from the side of the engine. 16 Undo and remove the screws securing the engine under cover. Lift away the under cover.

17 Undo and remove the bolts securing the torque under cover. Lift away the under cover.

converter

18 the the 19

Wipe the area around the oil cooler outlet and inlet tubes on side of the transmission unit. Disconnect the pipe and tape ends to stop dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Remove the transmission oil filler tube. 20 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission unit.

21 Disconnect

the

throttle

connecting

rod

from

valve lever. 22 Remove the clevis pin on the parking brake detach the pull rod from the intermediate lever.

the

throttle

pull rod and

23 Disconnect the shift rod or control rod from the transmission unit.

24 Remove

the

return spring from the intermediate

lever and

20 Safety ment

and

reverse

switch

(automatic transmission)

- adjust-

1 Refer to Section 22, and remove the selector lever assembly. 2 Slacken the switch securing bolt and reposition the switch so that the switch arm is just contacting the selector lever when the lever is in the ‘D’ position. 3 Retighten the securing bolt. Using a test light and battery check that the switch is operating correctly. If a negative result is obtained obtain and fit a new switch. 4 Refit the selector lever assembly.

21 Throttle adjustment

link

connecting

rod

-

(automatic

transmission)

1 Working under the car and with the help of an assistant check that when the carburettor throttle valve is fully open the indicator on the throttle valve lever is aligned with the mark

on rod 2 3 4

the transmission. If it is not the length of the connecting it must be reset. Slacken the locknuts on each end of the turnbuckle. Disconnect the second connecting rod from the carburettor. Adjust the length if the connecting rod with the turnbuckle

so that the throttle link connecting rod end aligns with the attachment on the carburettor when the throttle valve lever indicator aligns with the mark on the case with the carburettor

detach the lever from the support bracket. 25 Remove the handbrake cable from the crossmember. 26 Support the weight of the engine with one jack and the transmission unit with a second jack. 27 Undo and remove the crossmember to engine rear mounting insulator securing bolts. 28 Remove the crossmember to body securing bolts and lift

aligns

away the crossmember.

burettor throttle valve is in the fully open

throttle valve fully open. 5 Lock the turnbuckle and reconnect the second connecting rod to the carburettor. Check that the throttle valve lever still with

the

mark

on

the

transmission

case

when

the car-

position.

29 Detach the engine mounting stabiliser. 30 Working through the starter motor aperture undo and remove the six torque converter securing bolts. It will be necessary to rotate the crankshaft to gain access to all the bolts. 31 Lower the transmission and engine support jacks until the top of the transmission unit will clear the underside of the body.

32 Undo and remove the bolts securing the transmission unit to the engine. 33 Check that all controls, cables etc. are clear of the unit and then

carefully

draw

it rearwards.

An assistant will be necessary

because the unit is heavy. Lower the unit to the ground and draw it away from the underside of the car. Oil will flow from the converter so be prepared to mop it up. Place blocks so that the selector lever is not damaged.

on

wooden

34 Refitting the automatic transmission unit is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to check the various control adjustments as described later in this Chapter. 35 Refill the transmission unit with the recommended grade of

fluid before starting the engine and check cribed in Section 17.

the oil level as des-

22 Floor shift replacement

lever

(automatic

transmission)

= Chock the rear wheels, jack-up support on firmly based stands.

the

front

-

of

removal

and

the

and

car

2 Slacken and remove the connecting rod swivel nut. Disconnect the shift lever and control rod. 3 Undo and remove the Allen screw securing the shift lever knob cover. Remove the shift lever knob sleeve. 4 Disconnect the battery for safety reasons, and then undo and remove the console securing screws. Make a note of the electrical cable connections and disconnect. 5 The console may now be lifted away. 6 Undo and remove the bolts securing the shift lever assembly to the floor panel. 7 The shift lever assembly may now be lifted away from the floor panel.

8

Refitting the floor shift lever assembly is the reverse sequence

to removal. The following additional points should be noted:

a)

19 Floor shift lever (automatic transmission) - adjustment 1

Working

under

the

car

check

all linkage

rod

bushes

and

attachments for signs of wear and renew any parts as necessary. It is useless to try to adjust the shift lever with a worn linkage.

2 3

Slacken the connecting rod swivel locknut. Move the manual valve lever on the side of the transmission

to the ‘N’ position. 4 Move the selector lever to the ‘N’ position

5 Tighten the connecting rod swivel locknut. 6 The parking lock rod must now be reset. Slacken the parking lock swivel locknuts. 7 Check all attachments and bushes for wear and renew any Parts as necessary.