Haynes Chevrolet Sprint & Geo Metro Automotive Repair Manual [1727] 1850107270, 9781850107279

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a

Chevrolet

Sprint & Geo Metro Automotive

Repair

Manual by Larry Warren and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

Chevrolet Sprint — 1985 through 1988 Geo Metro — 1989 through 1991

(2U1 - 1727)

AUTOMOTIVE: PARTS § ACCESSORIES ASSOCIATION

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

AE), 42)

reser ABCDE FGHIJ

Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of Chevrolet Motor Division of General Motors Corporation for assistance with tecnical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos. The Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Mike Stubblefield, Ken Freund, Robert Maddox and Brian Styve. ©

Haynes North America, Inc.

1991

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85010

7270

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 91-71158 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manualis correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

ee

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Chevrolet Sprint/Geo Metro Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17 0-18 0-19

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 PartA Engine

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

2B-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

6-1

TA-1

7A

7B-1

7B

Chapter 7 PartA Manual transaxle

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

9-1

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12

12-1 Chassis electrical system ————————E——EE—E—————— a

Wiring diagrams

12-13

Index

IND-1

—————— See i

11

Les

O66L 995

O1}9IN

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. Itcan do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have itdone by adealer service department or arepair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. Thatis, illustration 3.2 means the illustration

refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. Whenit's necessary to refertoanother Chapter, the reference willbe given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the

Chevrolet Sprint/Geo Metro These models are available in two and four-door hatchback body . ‘ styles. The transversely-mounted inline three-cylinder engines used in these models are equipped with either a carburetor or fuel injection.

The engine drives the front wheels through a manual or automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring coil springs and struts, !s used at

the front wheels. At the rear, abeam axle with leaf or coil springs and shock absorbers is used on Sprint models, while Geo models have independent suspension with struts. The rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes on most models are disc at the front and drums at the rear,

with power assist standard.

Vehicle identification numbers Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard, just inside the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as the vehicle model, engine type and when it was manufactured.

Engine identification number The engine identification number is stamped into the front side of the

block at the rear (transaxle) end (see illustration). It tells what type of en-

gine itis, its displacement and when it was produced. This numberis often required when ordering parts.

Transaxle identification number The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is visible from outside the vehicle through the driver’s side of the windshield

On manual transaxles, the ID number is stamped into the case near the transaxle-to-engine mating surface and clutch release lever (see illustration).

Service parts identification label Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

H 100001 H 700001

G 10 H 100001 | ad

This label is located on the glove compartment door, the spare tire cover or the load floor at the rear of the vehicle. It lists the VIN, model designation, paint information and production operations and special equipment. Refer to this label when ordering parts and do not remove it from the vehicle for any reason.

Sequential

(MT) (AT)

Number

Model Year

(Refer to VIN designation)

Engine displacement (10"

=

Serial Number

1.0 Liter)

Model Year (Refer to VIN designation)

Engine type

aived,

MANUAL TRANSAXLE Engine identification number location (arrow)

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

Transaxle identification number location

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have con-

venient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (Such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased — regardless of the source

— do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are anumber of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts

with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. Ifa bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use alockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-8 Fastener sizes

slashes radiating used ona standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have of the bolt, strength or grade the denote to head the out from the center of to it. The which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied Grades bolt. the of strength the greater the slashes, of number greater the have a prop0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts to erty class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads the stronger the number, the higher the case, indicate bolt strength. In this aubolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 1 0.9 are commonly used on

For anumber of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2

inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch andis 1 inch long. AnM12—1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be

Grade

tomobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS; bottom — metric)

Grade

Identification

Class

Hex

Hex Nut Grade 5

Nut

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Hex

Identification

Arabic

9

Hex Nut Pro perty

Nut

Grade 8

Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

“

Arabic10 Metric hex nut strength markings

CT QO OD © CLASS MOS

CLASS OFS

CLASS 8.8

Metric stud length markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.

0-9

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their

thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, ageneral torque value chartis presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be

Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Metric thread sizes eo ales i na es leg, Ny eae oe Se ewe SaaeR TS 1 Paasche ae weer vic5 eats CT a lela OEE AE» Ate deeaee ae be aks Td ps. Soy ai cet ae Pant ARO tos. ere ee nce ee bo

Ft-lbs

Nm

6 to9

9to12

14 28 50 80

to to to to

21 40 71 140

19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes TORR ee Oe” he ee TN ry er, oF ree oe I sa Dace.: elem cra men St ceeoaks te

EC

A,

nate oka

ee

eee

ane eae 5to8

otek 12 to 18 Pe ere 22 to 33 ie Bacay 25 to 35

U.S. thread sizes Re ei ee, panda ance » eres ET ae er hee Semen eee Sherine IE oe ce oe eos np ie» sas ies aie RIE Sea. Pt eR E: «ee eunat i Ae io eee PRM EN 5 et) A eS, rede WE te Sot Lats oe Sees ae A aCe. tava Cos woac coe e © = ta Oe

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G_ L T D

Grade marks (bolt length) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

6 to 9 12 to 18

7 to 10

17to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

9to 12 17to 24

14 to 20

19to 27

22 to 32 27 to 38

30 to 43 37 to 51

40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

Metric boit dimensions/grade marks

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter oye

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on aclean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan ofthis type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnectany of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. lf a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise

one.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it So it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because itis usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, anondrying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

O- 11

a

Timing light

bigs en

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

ree Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Peareae.

Valve spring compressor

tk

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

———————————_

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-12

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special.

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands(2) Drain pan

The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer willassemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when itis felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Repair and overhaul tool set

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 ounce

Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/1 6-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Pliers Pliers Pliers Pliers

— — — —

vise grip lineman's needle nose snap-ring (internal and external)

O- 13

purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set)

hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add—on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools

Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Cold chisel — 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

Steel rule/straightedge — 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or

4mm to 10 mm)

A selection of files

Note: Another too! which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck ca-

pacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, itis not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department

or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuunypressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools in vehicle For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved available when maintenance and repair, there are a number of options

when notin use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on apanel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very

long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

Aclean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old

towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of

paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, alarge cardboard box

can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanketorbedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery.

Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block (see illustration). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking

Towing

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support.

Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground — transaxle damage may occur if you do. Use a towing dolly to keep the front wheels off the road. Make sure the parking brake is released and the ignition switch is inthe ACC position. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed.

The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one is in the vehicle as it’s being raised with the jack. Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare tire (if needed) from the vehicle. If a tire is being replaced, use the lug wrench to remove the wheel cover. The plastic wheel covers are easy to break, so pry carefully. Warning: Wheel covers may have sharp edges — be very careful not to cut yourse/f. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is raised off the ground. Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point. There's a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull the tire off and replace it with the spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don't attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in acriss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten the nuts with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Caution: The compact spare

included with these vehicles is intended for temporary use only. Have the tire repaired and reinstall it on the vehicle at the earliest opportunity and don't exceed 50 mph with the spare tire on the car. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

TIGHTEN

3.9 IN.

(100 mm)

(100 mm)

."

re NMOS 20 WOWERZO ROS 2cxo ReyUTRge PEE Battery terminal corrosion usually appears as light, fluffy powder

Battery post/cable cleaner — This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps

5 6

Treated felt washers — Placing one of these on each post, directly under the cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion Puller — Sometimes the cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off the post without damage.

7

Battery post/cable cleaner — Here is another cleaning tool which is a slightly different version of number 4 above, but it

8

does the same thing Rubber gloves — Another safety item to consider when servicing the battery; remember that's acid inside the battery!

Ifcorrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits) (see illustration) is evi7 dent, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush and reinstall them (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly or grease to the terminals. Make sure the battery carrier is in good condition and the hold-down 8 clampis tight. If the battery is removed (see Chapter 5 for the removal and installation procedure), make sure no parts remain inthe bottom of the car-

rier when it's reinstalled. When reinstalling the hold-down clamp, don't overtighten the nuts. Corrosion on the carrier, battery case and surrounding areas can be 9 removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Apply the mixture witha small brush, let it work, then rinse it off with plenty of clean water. be 10 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should coated with a zinc-based primer, then painted. can 41 Additional information on the battery, charging and jump starting 5. Chapter in and be found in the front of this manual 12 Always replace the battery with one of similar type and size.

10.7b When cleaning the cable clamps, all corrosion must be removed (the inside of the clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don’t remove too much material)

Charging Warning: When a battery is being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and flammable, is produced. Do not smoke or allow open flames

near a charging or recently charged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger. 13 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that’s dischargedto the point where it will not start the engine. It's also agood way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that's only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly importantin the

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-16

If not, cific gravity reading from each cell should be very close to the others. the battery probably has a bad cell or cells. top 149 Some batteries with sealed tops have built-in hydrometers on the that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright-colored hydrometer indicates a fullcharge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manufacturer's instructions to be sure you know what the colors mean. 20 If the battery has a sealed top and no built-in hydrometer, you can hook up a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the charge. A fully charged battery should read 12.6-volts or higher. ee 11. Ae

10.7¢c

®

;

=

Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement

ee

Regardless of the type of tool used on the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface should be the result

winter when the battery must work harder to start the engine and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use. 14 It's best to use a one or two-amp battery charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger). They’re the safest and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For afaster charge, you can use a higher amperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/ hour rating of the battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the

powerof the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery and can damage batteries not in good condition. This type of charging should only be used in emergency situations. 15 Theaveragetime necessary to charge abattery should be listedinthe instructions that come with the charger. As ageneral rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours. 16 Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook the battery charger leads to the battery posts (positive to positive, negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure it’s set at 12-volts if it has a selector switch. 17 If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during charging to make sure itdoesn't overheat. If you're using atrickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you've:checked it regularly for the first couple of hours. 18 Ifthe battery has removeable cell caps, measure the specific gravity with a hydrometer every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Inexpensive hydrometers are available from auto parts stores — follow the instructions that come with the hydrometer. Consider the battery charged when there’s no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The spe-

Refer to illustrations 11.3, 11.4 and 11.6 Warning: The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan.

Check 1 The alternator and air conditioning compressor drivebelts, also referred to simply as “fanbelts”, are located at the right (passenger's) side of the engine compartment. The condition and proper adjustment of the drivebelts is critical to the operation of the engine. Since they stretch and deteriorate as they get older, they must be inspected periodically. 2 Thenumber of belts used on a particular vehicle depends on the accessories installed. One belt transmits power from the crankshaft to the alternator and water pump. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the compressor is driven by a separate belt. 3 With the engine off, open the hood and locate the drivebelts on the endof the engine. With a flashlight, check each belt for separation,.cracks, hardness and other damage (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you'll have to twist the belt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the belt where you can't see it. If any of the above conditions are evident, replace the belt (go to Step 7). 4 The tension of each V-belt is checked by pushing firmly on it with your thumb at a distance halfway between the pulleys and noting how far the belt can be moved (deflected). Measure the deflection with a ruler (see illustration). Compare this measurement with the specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.

Adjustment 5 Ifthe alternator belt must be adjusted, loosen the adjustment bolt that secures the alternator to the slotted bracket and pivot the alternator or

RULER

DEFLECTION

GREASE STRAIGHT EOGE

: ’

i

GLAZED

ALWAYS

CHECK

the underside

of the belt.

11.3 Here are some of the more common problems associated with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an untimely breakdown)

MAKE SURE RULER IS PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE

11.4

Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-17

them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 5 Often the only effective way to check ahose is to remove itcompletely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 6 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 7 Asmall piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine components such as the drivebelts, cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hose 11.6

On air conditioned models, turn the idler pulley bolt (arrow) to adjust the drivebelt tension

power steering pump (away from the engine block to tighten the belt, toward the block to loosen the belt). It's helpful to lever the alternator with a large pry bar when adjusting the belt because the pry bar enables you to precisely position the component until the adjuster bolt is tightened. Be very careful not to damage the aluminum housing of the alternator or power steering pump. Recheck the belt tension using one of the above meth-

ods. Repeat this Step until the alternator drivebelt tension is correct. 6 If the air conditioner compressor drivebelt must be adjusted, locate the idler pulley on the front corner of the block and turn the idler pulley adjuster bolt (see illustration). Measure the belt tension. Repeat this step until the air conditioning compressor drivebelt is adjusted.

Replacement 7 To replace a belt, follow the above procedures for drivebelt adjustment but slip the belt off the pulleys to remove it. If you're replacing the power steering belt or air conditioning compressor belt, you'll have to remove the alternator belt first because of the way they're arranged on the pulleys. Because of this and because belts tend to wear out more or less together, it’s a good idea to replace both belts at the same time. Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley groove so the replacement belts can be installed in the proper positions. 8 Take the old belts to the parts store to make a direct comparison for length, width and design. 9

Adjust the belt(s) as described above.

eae edd EyEEEEEESSEE

12

Metal lines 11

13 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and brake proportioning unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection of the brake system.

13

Caution: Replacement of air conditioning hoses should be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning shop that has the equipment to depressurize the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurized.

General High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterio1 ration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for

cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be foundin Sec2 tion 13. Some, but not all, hoses are secured to the fittings with clamps. 3 Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven't lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren't used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to

leak.

|

Sections of metal line are often used for fuel line between the fuel

pump and carburetor or fuel injection. Check carefully to be sure the line has not been bent or crimped and that cracks haven't started in the line. 12 If asection of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing don't have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.

ET

Underhood hose check and replacement

Vacuum hoses

Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when inspecting or servicing fuel system components. Work in a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. 8 Check all rubber fuel lines for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends and just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 9 High quality fuel line, usually identified by the word Fluroelastomer printedon the hose, should be used for fuel line replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 10 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

)

It's quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emis4 sions system, to be color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into

Cooling system check

Refer to illustration 13.4 1 Many major engine failures can be attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, the cooling system also cools the transmission fluid and thus plays an important role in prolonging transmission life. 2 Thecooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do this

before the vehicle is driven for the day or after the engine has been shut off for at least three hours. 3 Remove the radiator cap by turning it to the left until it reaches a stop. lf you hear ahissing sound (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now press down on the cap with the palm of your hand and continue turning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap, inside and out, with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. The coolant inside the radiator should be relatively transparent. If it's rust colored, the system

should be drained and refilled (see Section 32). If the coolant level isn’t up to the top, add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section 4). 4

Carefully check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with

the smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the firewall. Inspect each hose along its entire length — replace any that are cracked, swollen or otherwise deteriorated. Cracks may show up better if

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance —

1-18

—

A ALWAYS

CHECK

or

areas that may Cause an

burned

untimely

hose

for

B 1

——

—_—|—>

chated

and costly failure

SOFT hose indicates inside deterioration This deterioration can contaminate the cooling

system

and

cause

particles

3—~

to

clog the radiator.

~~

14.2 HARDENED

hose can

fail at any time.

Tightening hose clamps will not seal the connection or stop leaks.

)—S

The recommended tire rotation pattern for these models A

When spare tire is used

B 1

When spare tire is not used Front tires

2 3.

Rear tires Spare tire

SWOLLEN hose of oi! soaked ends indicate danger and possible failure from

oil

of

grease

contamination.

the hose to locate that cause leaks.

cracks

Squeeze

and

breaks

13.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time — to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

ee |

ere...

the hose is squeezed (see illustration). Regardless of condition, it’s a good idea to replace hoses with new ones every two years. 5 Makesure all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust colored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. If wire-type clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, it may be a good idea to replace them with more secure screw-type clamps. 6 Use agarden hose or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, etc. from the front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser. Be careful not to damage the delicate cooling fins or cut yourself on them. 7 Every other inspection, or at the first indication of cooling system problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don’t have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge. ee 14

eee

Tire rotation

a

ee

ee

Se

ee

ee

Refer to illustration 14.2

1 The tires should be rotated at the specified intervals and whenever uneven wear is noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and the tires removed anyway, check the brakes (see Section 15) at this time. 2 Radial tires must be rotated in a specific pattern (see illustration). 3 Refer to the information in Jacking and towing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the vehicle and changing atire. If the brakes must be checked, do not apply the parking brake as stated. Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling. 4 Preferably, the entire vehicle should be raised at the same time. This can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and make sure the vehicle is securely supported. 5 After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessar y and

a

rf

15.6 You'll find an inspection hole in each caliper — placing a ruler across the hole should enable you to determine the thickness of the remaining pad material for both the inner and outer pads be sure to check the lug nut tightness. 6 For more information on the wheels and tires, refer to Chapter 10.

a 15 Brake check ——— Note: For detailed illustrations of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9. 1 In addition to the specified intervals, the brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are removed or whenever a problem is suspected . Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect: The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed; the brakes make squealing or dragging noises when applied; brake pedal travel is excessive; the pedal pulsates: brake fluid leaks, usually onto the inside of the tire or wheel. 2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts. 3 Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. 4 Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this book, or your owner's manual, if necessary)

Disc brakes Refer to illustration 15.6

5 The disc brake pads have built-in wear indicat ors which make a highpitched squealing or cricket-like warning sound when the pads are worn. 6 There are two pads—an outer and aninner—in each caliper. The pads are visible through small inspection holes in each caliper (see illustration).

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

15.12a On Sprint models you can check the thickness of the remaining brake shoe lining material by first removing the rubber plug in the backing plate with a screwdriver, . ..

15.12b

... then using a small flashlight to inspect the lining

7 Check the pad thickness by looking at each end of the caliper and through the inspection hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is less than the specified thickness, replace the pads. Note: Keep in mind that the lining material is riveted or bonded to a metal backing plate and the metal portion is not included in this measurement. 8 If it's difficult to determine the exact thickness of the remaining pad material by the above method, orif you're at all concerned about the condition of the pads, remove the caliper(s), then remove the pads from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 9 Once the pads are removed from the calipers, clean them with brake cleaner and remeasure them with a ruler or a vernier caliper. 10 Check the disc. Look for score marks, deep scratches and burned spots. If these conditions exist, the hub/disc assembly will have to be removed (see Chapter 9).

11

Before installing the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses for dam-

age, wear, deformation, cracks, corrosion and leakage, particularly in the vicinity of the rubber hoses at the calipers. Check the clamps for tightness andthe connections for leakage. Make sure all hoses and lines are clear of sharp edges, moving parts and the exhaust system. If any of the above conditions are noted, repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or fittings as necessary (refer to Chapter 9).

Rear drum brakes Refer to illustrations 15.12a,

15.12b and 15.14

12 On Sprint models, the rear brake lining can be checked without removing the brake drum. Remove the rubber plugs in the backing plates with a small screwdriver and use a flashlight to check the lining thickness (see illustrations). 13 On Geo Metro models, or for more complete brake inspection on Sprint models, refer to Chapter 9 and remove the rear brake drums. Warning: Brake dust produced by lining wear and deposited on brake components may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale it! DO NOT use gasoline or solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the brake components are wiped clean with a damp rag, dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and solventina covered and labelled container. Try to use non-asbestos replacement parts whenever possible. 14 Note the thickness of the lining material on the rear brake shoes (see illustration) and look for signs of contamination by brake fluid and grease. If the lining material is within 3/64-inch of the recessed rivets or metal shoes, replace the brake shoes with new ones. The shoes should also be replaced if they are cracked, glazed (shiny lining surfaces) or contaminated with brake fluid or grease. See Chapter 9 for the replacement proce-

dure. 145 Check the shoe return and hold-down springs and the adjusting mechanism to make sure they're installed correctly and in good condition. a

15.14

The rear brake shoe lining thickness is measured from the outer surface of the lining to the metal shoe (arrows)

Deteriorated or distorted springs, if not replaced, could allow the linings to drag and wear prematurely. 16 Check the wheel cylinders for leakage by carefully peeling back the rubber boots. If brake fluid is noted behind the boots, the wheel cylinders must be replaced (see Chapter 9). 17 Check the drums for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with emery cloth, the drums must be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop (see Chapter 9 for more detailed information). 18 Refer to Chapter 9 and install the brake drums. 19 Install the wheels and tighten the wheel lug nuts finger-tight.

20 21

Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle. Tightenthe wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s specifi-

cations.

Parking brake 22

Asimple method of checking the parking brake is to park the vehicle

on asteep hill with the parking brake set and the transmission in Neutral. If

the parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from rolling, adjust it (see Chapter 9).

16

Manual transaxle lubricant level check

Sprint Refer to illustration 16.2

1

Adipstick is used for checking the lubricant level in the manual trans-

axle used on these models.

Chapter 1

1-20

9 Gi i

Tune-up and routine maintenance

MANUAL TRANSAXLE DIPSTICK =

FULL LINE ADD LINE

16.2 On Sprint models, the manual transaxle dipstick is located adjacent to the distributor — the lubricant level should be kept between the Full and Add lines 2 Withthe transaxle cold (cool to the touch) and the vehicle parkedona level surface, remove the dipstick located at the left rear side of the engine compartment (see illustration). The level must be between the two marks on the dipstick. 3 If the level is low, add the specified lubricant through the dipstick hole (use a funnel).

16.4 1

Metro manual transaxle fill and drain plug locations Drain plug

2

Left driveaxle

3

«Fill plug

Metro Refer to illustration 16.4 4 The manual transaxle on these models doesn't have a dipstick. To check the lubricant level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. On the left side of the transaxle housing you'll see a plug (see illustration). Removeit. Ifthe lubricant level is correct, itshould be up to the lower edge of the hole. Use your finger as a dipstick to check the level. 5 Ifthe transaxle needs more lubricant (if the level is not up to the hole), use a syringe to add more. Stop filling the transaxle when the lubricant begins to run out the hole. 6 Install the plug and tighten it securely. Drive the vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.

around the vehicle, apply the parking brake and hold down the regular brake pedal during the checks. 1 Onautomatic transaxle equipped vehicles, try to start the engine in each gear. The engine should crank only in Park or Neutral. 2 If equipped with a manual transaxle, place the shift lever in Neutral and push the clutch pedal down about half way. The engine should crank only with the clutch pedal fully depressed. 3 Makesure the steering column lock allows the key to go into the Lock position only when the shift lever is in Park (automatic transaxle) or Reverse (manual transaxle). 4 The ignition key should come out only in the Lock position.

17

19

Carburetor/TBI mounting nut/bolt torque check

1 Thecarburetor or Throttle Body Injection (TBI) body is attached to the top of the intake manifold by several bolts or nuts. These fasteners can sometimes work loose from vibration and temperature changes during normal engine operation and cause a vacuum leak. 2 _ Ifyou suspect a vacuum leak exists at the bottom of the carburetor or throttle body, obtain alength of hose. Start the engine and place one end of the hose next to your ear as you probe around the base with the other end. You'll hear a hissing sound if a leak exists (be careful of hot or moving engine components). 3 Removethe air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4), tagging each hose to be disconnected with a piece of numbered tape to make reassembly easier. 4 Locate the mounting bolts at the base of the carburetor or top of the throttle body. Decide what special tools or adapters will be necessary, if any, to tighten the fasteners. 5 Tightenthe bolts or nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s specifications. Don’t overtighten them as the threads could strip. 6 If, after the bolts are properly tightened, a vacuum leak still exists, the carburetor or throttle body must be removed and a new gasket installed. See Chapter 4 for more information. 7 After tightening the fasteners, reinstall the air cleaner and return all hoses to their original positions. rr

18

Starter safety switch check

ee

ee

Warning: During the following checks there’s a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room

a

Seatbelt check

Seatbelts 1 Check the seatbelts, buckles, latch plates and guide loops for any obvious damage or signs of wear. 2 Make sure the seatbelt reminder light comes on when the key is turned to the On or Start positions. A chime should also sound. 3 The seatbelts are designed to lock up during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free movement during normal driving. Make sure the retractors return the belt against your chest while driving and rewind the belt completely when the buckle is unlatched. 4 Ifany of the above checks reveal problems with the seatbelts, replace

parts as necessary.

Automatic shoulder harnesses 5 Many late model vehicles are equipped with automatic front seat shoulder harnesses. They’re termed automatic because you don't have to buckle them —the shoulder harness automatically positions itself when the dooris closed andthe key is turned on. An emergency release lever allows the harness to be manually removed for exit in an emergency. Warning: Be sure to fasten the manual seatbeltas well. The automatic shoulder harness will not work properly unless the seatbelt is fastened. 6 Mostsystems have a warning light and buzzer that indicate the emergency release lever has been pulled up, releasing the shoulder harness. Make sure the release lever is down and the light/buzzer are off to ensure proper operation of the automatic shoulder harness. Also, if you disconnect any wires or remove any automatic shoulder harness componen ts when performing repair procedures on other vehicle component s, be sure to reinstall everything and check the harness for proper operation when the repairs are complete.

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-21

front wheel bearing, main shaft yoke, intermediate shaft yoke, control arm balljoint or steering system joint is worn or the steering gear is out of adee or broken. Refer to Chapter 10 for the appropriate repair proceure. 2 Other symptoms, such as excessive vehicle body movement over rough roads, swaying (leaning) around corners and binding as the steering wheel is turned, may indicate faulty steering and/or suspension components.

3 Check the shock absorbers by pushing down and releasing the vehicle several times at each corner. If the vehicle doesn’t come back to a level position within one or two bounces, the shocks/struts are worn and must be replaced. When bouncing the vehicle up-and-down, listen for

squeaks and noises from the suspension components. Additional infor-

mation on suspension components can be found in Chapter 10.

With the vehicle raised 22.2

Push on the driveaxle boot to check for cracks and lubricant leaks

7 Since the automatic shoulder harness is operated by several electrical switches and is computer controlled, diagnosis and repair must be done by a dealer service department. Do not jeopardize the safety of front seat occupants — if the automatic shoulder harness malfunctions, or you have questions regarding the proper use or operation of the system, contact a dealer service department.

A a le Se 20 Fuel system check Ces a ar alae a ie ee

ee ee

Warning: Certain precautions should be observed when inspecting or servicing the fuel system components. Work in a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) near the work area. Mop up spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. It's a good idea to keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area any time the fuel system is being serviced. 1 If you smell gasoline while driving or after the vehicle has been sitting in the sun, inspect the fuel system immediately. 2 Remove the gas filler cap and inspect if for damage and corrosion. The gasket should have an unbroken sealing imprint. 3 Inspect the fuel feed and return lines for cracks. Check the metal fuel line connections to make sure they’re tight. 4 Since some components of the fuel system — the fuel tank and part of the fuel feed and return lines, for example — are underneath the vehicle, they can be inspected more easily with the vehicle raised on a hoist. If that's not possible, raise the vehicle and secure it on jackstands. 5 Withthe vehicle raised and safely supported, inspect the gas tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and the tank is particularly critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck will leak because of loose clamps or deteriorated rubber. These are problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank (except rubber com-

ponents). A welding torch or any open flame can easily cause fuel vapors inside the tank to explode. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Carefully inspect the lines from the tank to the engine. Repair or replace damaged sections as necessary.

21

Steering and suspension check

Note: For detailed illustrations of the steering and suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.

With the wheels on the ground 1 Withthe vehicle stopped and the front wheels pointed straight ahead, rock the steering wheel gently back-and-forth. If free play is excessive, a

4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. See Jacking and towing at the front of this book for the proper jacking points. 5 Check the tires for irregular wear patterns and proper inflation. See Section 5 in this Chapter for information regarding tire wear and Chapter 10 for the wheel bearing servicing procedures. 6 _ Inspectthe universal joint between the steering shaft and the steering gear housing. Check the steering gear housing for leaks. Make sure the dust seals and boots are undamaged and the boot clamps are tight. Check the steering linkage for play and damage. Check the tie-rod ends for excessive play. Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all suspension and steering components. While an assistant turns the steering wheel from side-to-side, check the steering components for free movement, chafing and binding. if the steering components do not seem to be responding to movement of the steering wheel, try to determine where the slack is located. 7 — Inspect the balljoint boots for damage and leaking grease.

22

Driveaxle boot check

Refer to illustration 22.2 1 Thedriveaxle boots are very important because they preventdirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. The boot material can deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to occasionally wash the boots with soap and water. 2 Inspect the boots for tears and cracks as well as loose clamps (see illustration). If there is any evidence of cracks or leaking lubricant, they must be replaced as described in Chapter 8.

23

Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This should be done on a hoist where un-

restricted access is available. 2

Checkthe pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corro-

sion or damage. Make sure all brackets and hangers are in good condition and tight. 3 Atthe same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and cat-

alytic converter. If the components can come in contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mounts. 5 Checktherunning condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an indication of engine condition. If the pipe is wet with oil or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of service, including a compression test, a thorough fuel system inspection and adjustment.

Chapter 1

1-22

Tune-up and routine maintenance

a p

24.6

24.4

aaa

ite

de ‘

£ we

oa

aap

You should feel a slight amount of drag when the feeler gauge is moved back-and-forth

Position the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the valves indicated by arrows 1 2 3

24

Ae

‘Timing tag Pulley notch Crankshaft pulley

4

Number one cylinder rocker arms (arrows)

Valve clearance check and adjustment (Sprint only)

Refer to illustrations 24.4, 24.6, 24.7, 24.8 and 24.10 Warning: The electric cooling fancan activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 The valve clearances are checked and adjusted with the engine at normal operating temperature. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3 Remove the valve cover (see Chapter 2, Part A). 4 Place the number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke (see Chapter 2, Part A). The number one cylinder rocker arms (closest to the timing belt end of the engine) should be loose (able to move up-and-down slightly) and the notch in the crankshaft pulley should line up with the 0 on the timing tag (see illustration). If they aren't, the number one piston is not at TDC on the compression stroke. 5 Check/adjust only the valves indicated by arrows in illustration 24.4. The valve clearances can be found in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 6 The clearance is measured by inserting the specified size feeler gauge between the end of the valve stem and the adjusting screw. You should feel a slight amount of drag when the feeler gauge is moved backand-forth (see illustration). 7 \fthe gap is too large or too small, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw to obtain the correct gap (see illustration). Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn’t changed.

8 Rotate the crankshaft 240-degrees until the number three piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. The number three cylinder rocker arms (closest to the transaxle end of the engine) should be loose and notch in the crankshaft pulley should be lined up with the timing cover bolt at the lower left corner of the engine (see illustration). 9 Adjust the valves indicated by arrows in illustration 24.8 as described in Steps 6 and 7.

loosen the locknut slightly and a screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw 10 Rotate the crankshaft an additional 240-degrees until the number two piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. The number two rocker arms should be loose and the crankshaft pulley notch should line up with the lower right timing cover bolt (see illustration). 11 Adjust the valves indicated by arrows in illustration 24.10. 12 Install the valve cover and air cleaner assembly.

25

Manual transaxle lubricant change

1

Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle and allow all

lubricant to drain into a pan. 2 Reinstall the drain plug and tighten it to the specified torque. 3. Onsprint models, add the specified amount of lubricant through the dipstick hole and check the level with the dipstick (Section 16). 4 On Metro models, add new lubricant until it begins to run out of the filler hole (see Section 16). See Recommended lubricants and fluids for the specified lubricant type. 5 Reinstall and tighten the fill plug (Metro).

6 Drive the vehicle and check for leaks at the drain plug after the engine reaches normal opérating tremperature.

a 26 Air filter replacement eee Refer to illustrations 26.2 and 26.3

Warning: The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconne ct the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan.

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-23

24.8

Number three cylinder valve adjustment details 1

Rotate the crankshaft

2

240-degrees Crankshaft pulley

3

Lower left timing belt

4

cover bolt Number three cylinder

notch

rocker arms (arrows)

24.10

Number two cylinder valve adjustment details 1 2 3 4

Rotate the crankshaft 240-degrees Crankshaft pulley notch

Lower right timing belt cover bolt Number two cylinder rocker arms (arrows)

ee 26.2

Release the clips around the edge, unscrew the wing nut in the center, then lift the top of the filter housing off

Theair filter should be replaced with a new one at the specified inter1 vals. The engine air cleaner also supplies filtered air to the PCV system. The filter is located on top of the carburetor or throttle body and is re2 placed by unscrewing the wing nut, detaching the clips from the top of the filter housing and lifting off the cover (see illustration). Lift the filter element out (see illustration) and wipe out the inside of 3

the housing with a clean rag. Place the new filter in the housing. Make sure it seats properly in the 4. bottom of the housing.

26.3 Hold the top up out of the way and lift out the air filter element, then wipe out the inside of the housing with a clean rag

5 Install the top plate and any hoses which were disconnected. Don't overtighten the wing nut.

27

Fuel filter replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke or allow

open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Also, don't work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present.

Chapter 1

27.4

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Loosen the clamps (arrows), detach the hoses, then use a screwdriver to disconnect the filter from the bracket

27.13

1

27.12 Fuel-injected model fuel filter Outlet hose 3 Fuel filter B Fuel feed line 4 Mounting bracket

Inlet hose

Make sure the match marks on the filter and the bracket

line up 1

Fuel filter

2

Bracket

a

Match marks

Carburetor-equipped engines

28.1

Refer to illustration 27.4 1 Remove the fuel filler cap to eliminate the residual pressure from the fuel system, then reinstall it . 2. The fuel filter is located on the firewall, below the brake master cylin-

1

3

Release the hose clamps at the filter fittings and slide them back up

Fuel-injected engines Refer to illustrations 27.12 and 27.13 Warning: Before removing the fuel filter, the fuel system pressure must be

relieved — refer to Chapter 4 for the procedure. Wear eye protection. 8 The fuel filter is located under the rear of the vehicle at the left front corner of the fuel tank. 9 Disconnectthe negative battery cable, raise the vehicle and supportit securely on jackstands. 10 Place a metal drain pan under the filter.

11 Slide back the hose clamps, then disconnect the fuel filter inlet and outlet hoses. 12 Remove the bolts and detach the filter from the vehicle (see illustration). Remove the bracket and transfer it to the new filter.

Spark plug socket — This will have special padding inside to protect the spark plug's porcelain insulator

2

der. the hoses. 4 Detachthe filter from the bracket and disconnect the hoses (see illustration). Now would be a good time to replace the hoses if they’re deteriorated. 5 Push the hoses onto the new filter and position the clamps approximately 1/4-inch back from the ends. 6 Push the filter back into the bracket. Check to make sure it’s held securely and the hoses aren't kinked. 7 Start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the filter.

Tools required for changing spark plugs

3 4

5

Torque wrench — Although not manaatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly Ratchet — Standard hand too! to fit the spark plug socket Extension — Depending on model and accessories, you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge — This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your engine is included.

13 Attach the bracket to the new filter; be sure to line up the match marks (see illustration). 14 Install the fuel filter and bracket assembly. Tighten the bolts securely. 15 Connect the inlet and outlet hoses. 16 Start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the filter. eo EEeESSESESFSFSFSSSSSSSSSSSSmsmmmmshshFsFsFeFeF

28

Spark plug replacement

————eeeSSSFSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSsSSSsSsses

Refer to illustrations 28.1, 28.4a, 28.4b, 28.6, 28.8 and 28.10

1 Spark plug replacement requires a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet. This socketis lined with rubberto protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You'll also need a wire-type feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark plug gap and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration).

ee

CARBON DEPOSITS Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak

ignition. Causes misfiring, hard Starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Check for a clogged air cleaner, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug

with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

OiL DEPOSITS Symptoms: Oily coating Caused by poor oil control. Oil

is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the

combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesition.

Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and new plugs.

TOO

install

HOT

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommenaation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make

sure the radiator is

not clogged.

PREIGNITION Dees Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may

be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion

chamber.

Can lead to engine

damage.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have

risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds Recommendation: Install new

plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion

de-

posits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder. Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayishtan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating condi-

tions.

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms: Light brown

de-

posits encrusted on the side or

center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: |f excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Nor-

mal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy. Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insu-

lator tip. Can damage.

lead to piston

Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED

DEPOSITS

SBR IING: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring. Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals,

MECHANICAL DAMAGE Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

damage. Recommendation: Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

28.4a Spark plug manufacturers recommend using a wire type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required

emer

28.6

28.4b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode

TWIST AND PULL

When removing the spark plug wires, pull only on the boot and twist it back-and-forth

28.10 A length of 3/16-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark piugs 5 If the side electrode is not exactly over the center electrode, use the notched adjuster to align them. 6 Topreventthe possibility of mixing up spark plug wires, work on one spark plug ata time. Remove the wire and boot from one spark plug. Grasp the boot — not the cable — as shown, give it a half twist and pull it off (see illustration).

28.8

2

Use the special socket and a ratchet to remove the spark plugs

Whenreplacing plugs, purchase new ones in advance, adjust the gap

and then replace each plug one at a time. Note: When buying new spark plugs, it's essential that you obtain the correct plugs for your specific vehicle. This information can be found in this Chapter's specifications, on the

Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VEC!) label located on the underside of the hood or in the owner's manual. Ifthese sources specify different

plugs, purchase the type specified on the VECI label because that information is provided specifically for your engine. 3 Inspecteach of the new plugs for defects. If there are any cracks in the porcelain insulator of a plug, don’t use it. 4 Check the gaps on the new plugs by inserting a wire gauge of the proper thickness between the electrodes (see illustration). The gap between the electrodes should be as specified on the VECI label. If the gapis incorrect, use the notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body to bend the curved side electrode slightly (see illustration).

7 Ifcompressed air is available, blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area before proceeding (a bicycle tire pump will also work). 8 Remove the spark plug (see illustration). 9 Compare each old spark plug with those shown in the accompanying color photos to determine the overall running condition of the engine. 10 It's often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of 3/16-inch ID rubber hose over the end of the spark plug (see illustration). The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Ifthe plug begins to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage. Tighten the plug securely. 11 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the boot until it's firmly seated on the end of the spark plug. 12 Follow the above procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires. —

29

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement

eeeeeeSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS—SsSsS—

Refer to illustrations 29.11a, 29.11b and 29.12

1 The spark plug wires should be checked whenever new spark plugs are installed.

SS Se eee

eee

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-27

INSUFFICIENT SPRING TENSION

29.11a

After detaching the clips, the distributor cap can

be lifted off

EVIDENCE OF PHYSICAL CONTACT Pied

ROTOR aie “|ORRODED

CAP

BROKEN TOWER

29.12 The ignition rotor should be checked for wear and corrosion as indicated here (if in doubt about its condition, buy a new one)

a

A

a

a

a

a

2 Begin this procedure by making a visual check of the spark plug wires while the engine is running. Inadarkened garage (make sure there’s ventilation) start the engine and watch each plug wire. Be careful not to come

CARBON

TRACK

into contact with any moving engine parts. If there’s a break in the wire, you'll see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. If arcing is noticed, make a note to obtain new wires, then allow the engine to cool and check the distributor cap and rotor. 3. The spark plug wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up the order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Each original plug wire should be numbered to help identify its location. If the number is illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number and wrapped around the plug wire. 4 Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can be used for this purpose or you can grasp the rubber boot, twist it and pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. 5 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder.

CHARRED OR ERODED TERMINALS

6 Pushthe wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. It should fit tightly. If it doesn’t, remove the wire and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. 7 Using aclean rag, wipe the entire length of the wire to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the wire is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Don't bend the wire sharply, because the conductor might break. 8 Disconnectthe wire from the distributor. Again, pull only on the rubber boot. Check for corrosion and atight fit. Press the wire back into the distributor.

9 Inspect the remaining spark plug wires, making sure each one is securely fastened at the distributor and spark plug when the check is complete.

10 If new spark plug wires are required, purchase a set for your specific engine model. Pre-cut wire sets with the boots already installed are avail-

CARBON

TRACK

WORN OR OAMAGED ROTOR BUTTON

Shown here are some of the common defects to look for when inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt about its condition, install a new one)

29.11b

able. Remove and replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. 11 Remove the distributor cap by detaching the clips (see illustration). Look inside it for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or loose contacts (see illustration). 12 Pullthe rotor off the distributor shaft and examine it for cracks and carbon tracks (see illustration). Replace the cap and rotor if any damage or defects are noted. 13. It's common practice to install a new cap and rotor whenever new spark plug wires are installed, but if you reuse the old cap, clean the terminals first. 14 Wheninstalling anew cap, remove the wires from the old cap one ata time and attach them to the new cap in the exact same location — do not

1-28

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 1

:

30.3

With the air cleaner removed, the choke plate is visible in the carburetor throat

31.3.

Lis:

eh!

ups may occur.

Carburetor choke check

Refer to illustration 30.3 Warning: The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 The choke operates only when the engine is cold, so this check should be performed before the engine has been started for the day. 2 Takeoffthe top plate of the air cleaner assembly. It’s heldin place by a wing nut at the top and clips on the side. If any vacuum hoses must be disconnected, make sure you tag the hoses for reinstallation in their original positions. Place the top plate and wing nut aside, out of the way of moving

engine components. 3 Lookatthe center of the air cleaner housing. You'll notice a flat plate at the carburetor opening (see illustration). 4 Press the accelerator pedal to the floor. The plate should close completely. Start the engine while you watch the plate at the carburetor. Don't position your face near the carburetor, as the engine could backfire, causing serious burns. When the engine starts, the choke plate should open slightly. 5 Allow the engine to continue running at an idle speed. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the plate should slowly open, allowing more air to enter through the top of the carburetor. 6 After afew minutes, the choke plate should be fully open to the vertical position. Blip the throttle to make sure the fast idle cam disengages. 7 You'll notice that engine speed corresponds with the plate opening. With the plate nearly closed, the engine should run at a fast idle speed. As the plate opens and the throttle is moved to disengage the fast idle cam, the engine speed will decrease. 8 Refer to Chapter 4 for specific information on adjusting and servicing the choke components.

31

Thermostatically controlled air cleaner check (carburetor-equipped models only)

Refer to illustration 31.3 Warning: The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 Carburetor-equipped engines have a thermostatically controlled air cleaner which draws air from different locations, depending on engine temperature.

2 3

Ue

The air control valve is located in the air cleaner snorkel (arrow)

simultaneously remove all the wires from the old cap or firing order mix-

30

~~) =

This is a visual check, requiring use of a small mirror. When the engine is cold, locate the air control valve inside the air

32.4 The radiator drain (arrow) is mounted in the bottom tank

cleaner assembly. It’s inside the snorkel of the air cleaner housing (see illustration). There's a flexible air duct attached to the end of the snorkel, discon4 nect it at the snorkel. This will enable you to look through the end of the snorkel and see the air control valve inside. 5 Start the engine and look through the snorkel at the valve, which should move up to block off the air cleaner snorkel. With the valve closed, air cannot enter through the end of the snorkel, but instead enters the air

cleaner through the flexible duct attached to the exhaust manifold and the heat stove passage. 6 Asthe engine warms up to operating temperature, the valve should move downto allow airto be drawn through the snorkel end. Depending on outside temperature, this may take 10-to-15 minutes. To speed up this check you can reconnect the snorkel air duct, drive the vehicle, then check to see if the valve is completely open. 7 \f the thermostatically controlled air cleaner isn’t operating properly, see Chapter 6 for more information.

32

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling)

Refer to illustration 32.4

Warning: Antifreeze is a corrosive and poisonous solution, so be careful not to spill any of the coolant mixture on the vehicle's paint or your skin. If this happens, rinse immediately with plenty of clean water. Consult local authorities regarding proper disposal procedures for antifreeze before draining the cooling system. In many areas, reclamation centers have been established to collect used oil and coolant mixtures. The electric cooling fan can activate at any time, even when the ignition is in the Off position. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 The cooling system should periodically be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. When the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator cap should be checked and replaced if necessary.

Draining 2 Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several hours to allow the engine to cool before beginning this procedure. 3 Once the engine is completely cool, remove the radiator cap. 4 Remove the splash panel located beneath the radiator (if equipped), then move a large container under the radiator drain to catch the coolant. Open the drain fitting (see illustration). 5 After the coolant stops flowing out of the radiator, move the container under the engine block drain plug (if equipped). Loosen the plug and allow the coolant in the block to drain.

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-29

33.3 Before checking the idle speed, check the accelerator cable to make sure it isn’t too tight (it should have about 1/8-inch play) 1

Acceleratorcable

3

2

‘Throttle lever

4

Cableadjustingnut

5

Cable play

33.4

Locknut

On Metro models, remove the spare fuse (1) and place it in the diagnosis terminal (2) before checking the idle speed

mG

ae; WY

a

ti 33.9a

On carburetor-equipped models, the idle speed adjusting screw (1) is located at the rear of the carburetor

6 While the coolant is draining, check the condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps (refer to Section 13 if necessary). 7 Replace any damaged clamps or hoses (refer to Chapter 3 for detailed replacement procedures).

33.9b

Idle speed adjusting screw location (fuel-injected models)

16 Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel air, then add more coolant mixture if necessary. Replace the radiator cap.

17

Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature and

check for leaks.

Flushing 8 Once the system is completely drained, flush the radiator with fresh water from a garden hose until water runs clear at the drain. The flushing action of the water will remove sediments from the radiator but will not remove rust and scale from the engine and cooling tube surfaces. 9 These deposits can be removed by the chemical action of a cleaner. Follow the procedure outlined in the manufacturer's instructions. If the radiator is severely corroded, damaged or leaking, it should be removed (see Chapter 3) and taken to a radiator repair shop. 10 Remove the overflow hose from the coolant recovery reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with clean water, then reconnect the hose.

Refilling 11 Close the radiator drain. Install and tighten the block drain plug. 12 Place the heater temperature control in the maximum heat position. 13 Slowly add new coolant (a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze) to the radiator until it's full. Add coolant to the reservoir up to the lower mark. 14 Leave the radiator cap off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing through the radiator and the upper radiator hose will get hot). 15 Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add more coolant mixture to bring the level back up to the lip on the radiator filler neck.

a

33

Idle speed check and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 33.3, 33.4, 33.9a and 33.9b 1 Engineidle speed is the speed at which the engine operates when no accelerator pedal pressure is applied, as when stopped at a traffic light. This speed is critical to the performance of the engine itself, as well as many engine subsystems. 2 Set the parking brake and block the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Put the transaxle in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). 3 Make sure the accelerator cable is not too tight. If necessary, turn the adjusting nut so there is approximately 1/8-inch play in the cable where it connects to the throttle lever (see illustration). 4

OnMetro models, remove the spare fuse from the fuse block and in-

stall it in the diagnosis terminal (see illustration). 5 Connect a hand-held tachometer. 6 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. 7 Check, and adjust if necessary, the ignition timing (see Chapter 5). 8 Check the engine idle speed on the tachometer and compare it to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment. 9 If the idle speed is too low or too high, turn the idle speed adjusting screw (see illustrations) until the specified idle speed is obtained.

Chapter 1

1-30

Tune-up and routine maintenance

—~ Main bearing bore sizes (marks stamped on oil pan mating surface) He iat Dieters Xara WinnieTene ails eA cin niece RiamaMSarsrany & nates wick « spa fee. ene ee ae tape Pent kOe aah ERG oR co FALTER NAb tse"p MUNI LE AMET a ONES aha a lle oxidiveier oa sah ee ere a ¢ wl

0.0786 0.0787 0.0788 0.0789 0.0790

to to to to to

0.0787 0.0788 0.0789 0.0790 0.0791

in in in in in

(1.996 (1.999 (2.002 (2.005 (2.008

to to to to to

2.000 2.003 2.006 2.009 2.012

2B -3

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

1.9292 to 1.9294 in (49.000 to 49.006 mm) 1.9294 to 1.9296 in (49.006 to 49.012 mm) 1.9296 to 1.9298 in (49.012 to 49.018 mm)

Cylinder bore Diameter

PaEID EEL MTA oi Sa Metro pig RANT

ee hee

at tie hkhomed

ee

eee

Ie Gv GRO

le wb

a AD

wy

tia Wien ceva

2.9193 in (74.15 mm) 2.9138 to 2.9142 in (74.01 (74.01 toto 74.02 74.02 mm)

2.9134 to 2.9138 in (74.01 to 74.02 mm) 0.0039 in (0.10 mm)

Pistons and rings Cylinder bore diameter OS Ag A Ce ae ae a ST a PES Sn SS are eee ee PIBIOMTO-DIOIE GIOBFENCE ccs 6 Poe cece ca bancccecensace Piston ring end gap Sprint Compression rings SS cA EUEMIEINY chee ies son do2 sk ddeaw ane.ae dGMiee MOC Erm WCE MME 2kiaeayk