Haynes Chevrolet Nova & Geo Prizm Automotive Repair Manual [1642] 1850106428, 9781850106425

Citation preview

CHEVROLET

GEO 1985 thru

PRIZM 1 990

All

models

Automotive Repair Manual

'"./•

Sale of

,1

PUBLIC LIBRARY

Efreud raw

Chevrolet

Nova

& Geo Prizm Automotive Repair

Manual by Jon LaCourse and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of

Motoring Writers

Models covered: All

Chevrolet Nova and

Geo Prizm models

1985 through 1990 «ecoE FGHIJ

KLMNO PORST

AHTOMOTIVI:

—

ASSOCIATION MtMritl^

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park 320 USA

California 91

Acknowledgements

We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Chevrolet Motor Division of

General Motors Corporation for assistance with and the vehicle photo, and the Champion

technical information

Spark Plug Company, who supplied the spark plug conditions. Technical writers project include Mike Stubblefield

©

various contributed to this

illustrations of

who

and Ken Freund.

Haynes Publishing Group 1990

A book

in

the

Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed by J.H. Haynes & Co., Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Ltd.

Sparkford

Nr. Yeovil,

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright

All rights

holder.

ISBN1 85010 642 8 Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 90-81410

»il< is made to ensure that the information in this correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

While every attempt

manual

is

K

Contents Introductory pages About this manual

Nova and Geo Prizm numbers

Introduction to the Chevrolet

Vehicle identification

Buying parts

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing

Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety

first!

Conversion factors Troubleshooting

Chapter

facilities

5 5 6

8 8 15 16 17 18 19 20

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Part

27

A

Engines

64

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

101

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

133

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

151

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

166

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

183

Chapter 7 Part A 209

Manual transaxle

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

220

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

228

Chapter 9 242

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

265

11

288

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

303

Wiring diagrams

319

Index

344

About Its

manual

this

purpose

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even you choose to have done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; provides information and procedures for routine mainteif

it

it

nance and low when

We

servicing;

and

it

offers diagnostic

and

repair procedures to

fol-

hope you use the manual

simpler jobs, doing

it

the Step within that section. That

is,

illustration 3.2

means the

illustration

and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it's necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same refers to Section 3

trouble occurs.

yourself

to tackle the

work

may be quicker than

yourself. For

many

arranging an appoint-

ment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave and pick up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you it

it

feel after

Chapter. For example, "see Section 8"

References to the in

doing the job yourself.

left

means

in

same Chapter. assume you are sitting

the

or right side of the vehicle

the driver's seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care,

Using the manual The manual

is

neither

the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors

divided into Chapters. Each Chapter

is

divided into

in,

or

omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to

understand.

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution

found. Not heeding a Caution can result

is

in

damage

to the

assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Warning

found. Not heeding a

is

Warning can

result in personal injury.

Introduction to the

Chevrolet Nova and

Geo Prizm

These vehicles are available in two and four-door hatchback and sedan body styles. The transversely-mounted inline four-cylinder engines used in these models are equipped with either a carburetor or fuel injection. The engine drives the front wheels through a five-speed manual or four-speed auto-

with

matic transaxle via independent driveaxles.

disc brakes.

Independent suspension, featuring all

four wheels.

The rack and

coil

springs and struts,

pinion steering unit

is

is used at mounted behind the

engine.

The brakes on most models are disc at the front and drums at the rear, power assist standard. Some models are equipped with front and rear

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process

manufacturing. Since spare parts the individual vehicle

lists

in

numbers

vehicle

are compiled on a numerical basis,

numbers are essential

to correctly identify the

com-

ponent required.

Vehicle Identification

Number (VIN)

number is stamped on a plate atdashboard, just inside the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the This very important identification

tached

body

to the left side of the

style.

Vehicle Certification Plate The Vehicle Certification Plate (VC label) is attached to the left front door pillar. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month

The Vehicle

Identification

Number

(VIN) is visible from outside the

vehicle through the driver's side of the windshield

Vehicle identification and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the

numbers

left (driver's)

end (see

illustration).

certification statement.

Transaxle ID

Engine serial number The engine

serial

number

The transaxle is

stamped

into the front of the block at the

number ID

number

is

located on top of the transaxle housing

(see illustrations).

ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER TYPE OF ENGINE

The engine

ID

number

located on the block, at the

is

(driver's)

5

left

end

09 00000

LAST DIGIT OF MANUFACTURING— YEAR 1985

MANUFACTURING MONTH 01 12 JANUARY DECEMBER 5 DIGIT

'

PROD NO

Location of the manual transaxle ID number

5003

4 DIGIT

PRODUCTION NO.

|

MANUFACTURING MONTH NOT USED) 'A' THRU 'M' A - JAN.. B = FEB., C - MARCH (1

LAST DIGIT OF MANUFACTURING YEAR 5

=

1985

OR

LAST DIGIT OF MANUFACTURING YEAR 'A' THRU K' NOT USED) E = 1985, F = 1986, G = 1987 (I

Location of the automatic transaxle ID number

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

fall

is

into

as follows:

venient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from

home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). parts which are unique to the vehicle

Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have con-

Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement pans purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure

numbers

of obtaining the correct parts,

available and,

if

have engine and chassis

possible, take the old parts along for positive

identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

with nylon or fiber inserts

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

lose their locking ability

that will

can only be used once. If they are removed, they and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed it

with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

Fasteners

If

Fasteners are nuts,

bolts,

studs and screws used to hold two or more

keep in mind when working with them use a locking device of some type, either a

parts together. There are a few things to fasteners. Almost

all

of

lockwasher, locknut. locking tab or thread adhesive. ers should be clean and straight, with

All

threaded fasten-

undamaged threads and undam-

aged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts

of replacing

a bolt or stud breaks

with a special tool

off in

commonly

an assembly,

it

can be

and removed Most automotive

drilled

available for this purpose.

machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

facilities

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider

used on a standard

and wider use

out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt,

tell

of metric fasteners. Therefore,

it

is

important to be able to

the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or

SAE) and

metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged.

25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1 .75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be x

1

Identification

most standard

bolts

have slashes radiating

an indication

of the amount of torque that can be applied to The number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to is

it.

indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt.

Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and

Class

1

0.9 are

commonly used on

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the

number, the greater the strength

of the nut.

marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. Metric studs are also

Grade 8

- standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

Arabic 9

3 Dots Hex Nut Hex Nut Grade 8

Property Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

CLASS ArabicIO

Metric hex nut strength

markings

au-

tomobiles.

Grade 5

or 2

Bolt strength markings (top

Grade

Also,

greater the

All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 1 3 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M1 2 - 1 .75

Grade

which

bolt.

10.9

e CLASS

CLASS

9.8

8.8

Metric stud length markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

10

through It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine threadiasXener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred 2,

it

as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original. to

facilities

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These (torque

torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum).

As was

previously mentioned, the size and

grade of a fastener determine the amount

Metric thread sizes

Ft-ibs

Nm

M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

6 to 9

9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54

14 28 50 80

to 21 to

40

to 71 to

140

of

torque that can safely be

68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes

1/2

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8-16 3/8-24 7/16-14 7/16-20 1/2-13

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

1/8

1/4 3/8

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G

Grade marks

L

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

T

D

(bolt length)

7 to 10

17 30 34

to

to to

24 44 47

9 to 12

17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43

37 55 55 75

to 51 to

74

to 81 to

108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade

marks

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads Diameter

T

D

in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working applied to

Grade 3

it.

The

figures listed here are approximate for

Grade 2 and

fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values.

out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in seavoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be

Fasteners

laid

bolts, differential

quence

shown

to

the appropriate Chapter.

a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first in

Hose removal

one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Hose removal precautions tions.

closely parallel gasket removal precauAvoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against

may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Bechemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the or the connection

cause

of various

outside of the spigot. Apply the

and the outside

As a

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done

with care

and purpose

tips

Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station.

If

tighten

to

sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characmarks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such is a good idea to lay the disasas a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. sembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compoof the

teristics or

It

same

lubricant to the inside of the

hose

of the spigot to simplify installation.

last resort

(and

way), the rubber can be

help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track

11

facilities

if

the hose

slit

be replaced with a new one anyand the hose peeled from the spig-

to

is

with a knife

If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. Wire-type If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse clamps usually weaken with age, so is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

ot.

it.

it

It

nents before removal.

When

removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain

and

tools, the initial

repair his or her

own vehicle. For the owner who has few seem high, but when compared to the

investment might

spiraling costs of professional auto

maintenance and

one.

the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses

or connectors are separated,

it

is

a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can some-

sealing

Micrometer set

times cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very diffiseparate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain

cult to

smooth.

If

prying

is

absolutely necessary, use an old

broom handle, but

be necessary the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a nondrying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

keep

in

mind

that extra clean

up

will

if

Dial indicator set

repair,

it

is

a wise

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

12

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

facilities

Timing

light

m v

te Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

# |

\ -

x Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Brake cylinder hone

Tap and die set

Clutch plate alignment tool

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Battery post

Maintenance and minor repair tool

and cable cleaning

wrench Funnel (medium Safety goggles

detailed

The

13

facilities

Oil

tool

filter

size)

Jackstands(2) Drain pan

Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set

kit

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major reand are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool

should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We

pairs

recommend the purchase

kit.

end combined

are invaluable because of their versatility, especially

tools in this

list

of combination wrenches (box-end and openone wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. in

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch

to

1

inch or

Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set

screwdriver (No.

Combination

pliers

2x6 inch)

- 6 inch

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil

can

Fine emery cloth Wire brush

mm to

19

mm)

is

a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, when various exten-

sions and drives are available.

We recommend the

3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive

is

1

/2-inch drive over the

bulky and more expensive,

it

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s)

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips

6

Included

Reversible ratchet

Extension -10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball

peen hammer - 8 ounce

Soft-face

hammer (plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch)

3x8 inch)

Phillips

screwdriver (No.

Phillips

screwdriver (stubby

- No.

2)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

14

Pliers

Pliers Pliers Pliers

If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

- vise grip - lineman's - needle nose - snap-ring (internal and external)

purchasing tools.

to

it

Cold chisel- 1/2-inch Scribe

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16,

3/16-inch)

1/8,

Steel rule/straightedge

- 12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4

A

selection of

mm to

10

mm)

files

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Note A nother tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck ca:

pacity of 3/8-inch

and a

set of good quality

drill bits.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so makes sense it

spect.

Special tools

The tools in this

list

include those which are not used regularly, are ex-

pensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase split

many

of

them.

A consideration would be to

the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends.

most of these tools can be obtained from a tool

rental

In

addition

shop on a temporary

basis.

This

list

and instruments widely and not those special tools produced by the vehicle

primarily contains only those tools

available to the public,

manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the

However, sometimes there is no alternative to their and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. special tool

use.

Where

is

facilities

Keep them clean and

in

to treat

them

with re-

usable condition and store them properly

when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been

left

there so they won't get lost during a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers,

pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

offered.

this is the case,

Working

facilities

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old

Tachometer/dwell meter

antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Universal electrical multimeter

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder compression

gauge

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing

light (inductive

pick-up)

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools

to

paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposTo help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made espeable.

Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer

maintenance and

Not

who

repair, there

is

just starting to get involved in vehicle

are a

number

of options available

when

cially for this

purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

a)

Before connecting the booster battery, switch

is in

make

sure the ignition

the Off position.

Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one b)

c)

in

the vehicle.

e)

The two

f)

Make

vehicles

MUST NOT TOUCH

sure the transmission

is in

each

other!

Neutral (manual) or Park (auto-

matic). g)

If

the booster battery

is

not a maintenance-free type,

remove the

vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable to the

positive (+) terminals of

each

bat-

tery.

Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on of the

the engine block (see illustration).

Make sure the cable will

not come into

contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine run-

ning at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables

connection.

in

the reverse order of

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery

order

NOT attached to the

negative terminal of the dead battery)

is

Jacking and towing Towing

Jacking Warning The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and :

the transaxle

brake

if

in

Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Apply the parking Make sure no one is in the

the front of the vehicle must be raised.

vehicle as

it's

Remove

and spare

tire

(if

If

a tire

being towed with the front wheels on the ground, place the transaxle

is

ing lock

mechanism

isn't

Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point.

Vehicles with an automatic transaxle Caution: Never tow an automatic transaxle-equipped vehicle with the front wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed from the rear, place the front wheels on a towing dolly. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can only be towed with

There's a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illus-

off the ground. DO NOT tow the vehicle with the front wheels on the ground or the transaxle can be seriously damaged. The parking brake must be released during towing.

the front wheels

tration).

Turn the jack handle clockwise the lug nuts, pull the

in

must be in the ACC position, since the steerstrong enough to hold the front wheels straight

Neutral. Also, the ignition key

needed) from the

being replaced, use the lug wrench to remove the wheel cover. Warning: Wheel covers may have sharp edges - be very careful not to cut yourself. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is raised off the ground. vehicle.

is

while towing.

being raised with the jack.

the jack, lug nut wrench

Vehicles with a manual transaxle As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. Be sure to release the parking brake. If the vehicle

tire off

until

the tire clears the ground.

Remove

and replace with the spare. Replace the lug in and tighten them snugly. Don't atit

nuts with the beveled edges facing

tempt to tighten them completely off

until

the vehicle

is

lowered or it could

slip

Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. the jack and tighten the lug nuts

vehicles

All

the jack.

Remove

a criss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten the nuts with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels. in

Equipment be attached

specifically

to the

main

designed

structural

for

towing should be used.

members

It

should

of the vehicle, not the

bum-

pers or brackets. is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and brakes won't work with the engine off.

Safety

and

local

Jacking points

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

during vehicle maintenance and repair.

Sealants

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-

the brake system,

It

nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from

electrical

compo-

nents such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used

to

remove grease from the They can be sprayed

outside of the engine and from chassis components. or brushed

on and, depending on the type, are rinsed

off either

with water

RTV

of the

most widely used gasket compounds. Made

it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

is air

curing,

irregularities,

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air,

while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This

that

an anaerobic sealant cures only

them

after the

assembly

means

of parts, sealing

together.

Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and in fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts.

Lubricants Motor oil is the

lubricant formulated for

use

in

engines.

It

normally con-

wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

tains a

designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. oil

RTVsealantis one from silicone,

corrosion

or solvent.

Gear

Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

is

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where creased loads and balljoints, tie-rod

friction

in-

are encountered, such as for wheel bearings,

ends and universal

joints.

High-temperature wheel bearing grease \s designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -1 00 to +1 90-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube

is

a special extreme pressure

lubricant, usually con-

main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function.

taining moly,

used to

lubricate high-load parts (such as

Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber,

plastic, vinyl

and nylon

parts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from viand cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren't removed on a regular basis. brating or working loose

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treat-

ments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that helpdissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid'is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be reseated to prevent contamination by heat and pressure encountered

water or

dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive doors,

windows and trunk

is

lids.

used to bond weatherstripping around is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

It

Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes are used

to help protect painted

and plated

sur-

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the

faces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or

ignition switch.

variety of chemicals

Moly penetrants loosen and

lubricate frozen, rusted

teners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

and corroded fas-

abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide

older vehicles.

such as polymers and silicones have been

duced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and than conventional waxes and polishes.

last

intro-

longer

Safety Regardless

of

first!

how enthusiastic you may be about getting on

job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety

is

with the

not jeopardized.

A

an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you

moment's lack

of attention

can

result in

carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under

the vehicle. Always use ap-

proved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that

it

will

not burn you.

DON'T touch any sufficiently to

part of the engine or

exhaust system

until

it

has cooled

avoid burns.

DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust- it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below)

Fire

Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. or

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with if

If

DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe up before it

someone

slips

on

it.

DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause

possibly lethal results.

injury.

DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles the if

wrench should

Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They noroff a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the mally give

slip.

DON'T attempt to a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are lift

working on

The battery

it.

DO wear eye

protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check on

you periodically when working alone on a

caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out dren and pets. correctly

When of the

reach of

chil-

DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If

in

doubt on any

point, get professional advice.

Asbestos brake bands, clutch

linings,

torque converters, gaskets, etc. - con-

Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

tain asbestos.

using an electric power

tool,

inspection

light, etc.,

which oper-

make sure that the tool is correctly conwhere necessary, is properly grounded. Do

ates on household current, always

nected

to

its

plug and that,

not use such items

in

it

damp conditions

or apply excessive heat

in

and, again, do not create a spark

the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products -such as brake linings,

Household current

A severe ignition

electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running

or being cranked, particularly

tem voltage

is

if

components are damp or the

insulation

is

an electronic ignition system, the secondary sysmuch higher and could prove fatal.

defective. In the

case

of

Conversion factors Length (distance) X X X

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

= = =

Millimetres

(mm)

Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

= = =

X X X

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88

0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

3.6

= Ounces-force

0.225

= Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

X

14.223

3.281 0.621

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

(capacity) 3

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) )

US

quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Mass

25.4 0.305 1.609

X 16.387 X 0.568 X 1.137 X 1.201 X 0.946 X 4.546 X 1.201 X 3.785

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 = Litres = Litres = US quarts (US qt) = Litres = Litres = US gallons (US gal) = Litres

X X

= Grams (g) = Kilograms

)

(I) (I)

(I) (I)

(I)

0.833 1.057 0.22

)

(weight)

Ounces Pounds

(oz) (lb)

28.35 0.454

(kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

(N)

(kgf; kg)

9.81

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2 ;

2 ;

2 ;

2 ;

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm Atmospheres (atm)

X

0.068

=

=

X

14.696

=

X

0.069

=

Bars

X

14.5

=

X

6.895

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=

X

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm

X

98.1

=

X

0.868

=

2

lb/in

;

2 ;

2 ;

2

(psi; lbf/in

)

;

2 )

lb/in

2 )

lb/in

2 )

Pounds-force per square inch

2

Kilopascals (kPa)

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

2

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

2

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

=

;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

0.070

)

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

X

2

lb/in

;

lb/in

2 )

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)

(kgf

(Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.113

Pounds-force inches

= Newton

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

X

metres (Nm)

8.85

=

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.083

Pounds-force inches

=

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

=

12

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)

X

7.233

=

= Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

X 0.138 =

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

X X

1.356 0.102

(kgf

ft;

lb ft)

m; kg m)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

X

745.7

= Watts

X

1.609

=

X X

0.354 0.425

(W)

= Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Kilometres per Kilometres per

litre

(km/I)

litre

(km/I)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit *lt is

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

where

kilometres

(1/1

00km),

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

backfires

diesels (continues to run) after switching

hard to start

hard to start lacks

when when

off

cold hot

power

13 15 4 5 12

lopes while idling or idles erratically

8

misses at idle speed misses throughout driving speed range

9

rotates but

10 2

not start

will

stalls

11

starts but stops will

not rotate

immediately

when

7

attempting to start

1

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill Starter motor noisy or excessively rough

in

engagement

Starter motor operates without rotating engine

14 6 3

Difficulty in engaging gears Noisy in all gears Noisy in Neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear Oil leakage

Slips out of high gear

Battery

system

electrical

will

not hold a charge

Ignition light fails to

come on when key

Ignition light fails to

go out

is

turned on

16 18 17

36 33 32 34 37 35

Automatic transaxle Fluid leakage General shift mechanism problems Transaxle slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

41

38 40

39

Driveaxles Clicking noise

Engine

Section

Manual transaxle

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

Symptom

in

turns

Knock or clunk when accelerating after coasting Shudder or vibration during acceleration

42 43 44

Rear axle Noise

45

Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

19

Brakes

20

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

Cooling system Coolant loss

25 23 24 22

External coolant leakage Internal coolant

leakage

Overcooling

Overheating Poor coolant circulation

21

26

Vehicle pulls to

one side during braking

in

vehicle speed)

28

when disengaged pressed to the floor - shift

Clutch pedal stays on floor Fails to release (pedal

rolling

around corners

or during braking

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase

does not move freely in and out of Reverse) Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed)

31 lever

27 29

Excessive play in steering Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge Excessively stiff steering Lack of power assistance

Shimmy, shake or vibration worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side Tire tread

30

51

46

Suspension and steering systems Excessive pitching and/or

Clutch

49 52 48 50 47

55 57 59 61

60 56 58 54 62 53

21

Troubleshooting This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and possible causes are grouped under various components or systems; i.e. Engine, Cooling System, etc., and also refer to the Chapter and/or Section which deals with the problem.

Remember

that successful troubleshooting

is not a mysterious black by professional mechanics. It's simply the result of a bit of knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can forget to fill the gas tank or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are above such oversights. Finally, always get clear in your mind why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.

art practiced only

3

motor operates without rotating engine

Starter

Remove

1

Starter pinion sticking.

2

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth

driveplate access cover

4

Engine hard to

and

start

inspect.

when

1

Battery discharged or low.

2

Fault

3

Carburetor

in

the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. worn or broken. Remove the flywheel/

cold

Check as described

in

Section

the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and

1

5).

need

5

of overhaul (Chapter 4). carbon tracked and/or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5). Choke control stuck or inoperative (carbureted models) (Chapters 1

and

4).

4

5

in

Distributor rotor

Engine hard to

start

when

hot

Engine Engine

will

not rotate

when attempting

to start

Air

Fault

3

Fuel not reaching the carburetor (carburetor-equipped models) (see

Section 1

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.

clogged (Chapter

1

2

filter

in

1 ).

the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).

2).

Check the cable ter-

minals at the battery. Tighten the cable or remove corrosion as necessary. the cable connections are clean and

2

Battery discharged or faulty.

tight

on the battery posts, turn the key to the

If

headlights and/or windshield wipers.

If

On position and switch on the

they

fail

to function, the battery

discharged.

1

Automatic transaxle not completely engaged in Park or Neutral or clutch pedal not completely depressed. 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. 3

Inspect

all

wiring

6

and connectors

at the battery, starter solenoid

and

Starter

motor noisy or excessively rough

in

engagement

is

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken.

2

Remove the cover at the

so equipped) and inspect. Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

rear of the engine

(if

igni-

tion switch.

5

Starter motor pinion

axle, place transaxle in

jammed

in

flywheel ring gear.

gear and rock the vehicle

to

If

manual

trans-

7

Engine starts but stops immediately

manually turn the en-

Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel convenience (Chapter 5). Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 6 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 1 2). 8 gine.

at

earliest 1

2

3

Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator. Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor (carburetor-equipped mod-

Check the fuel pump (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold, or carburetor/throttle body. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor and manifold are posiels).

4

tioned properly and

Engine rotates but

2

will

1

Fuel tank empty.

2

Fault in the carburetor or fuel injection

3

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly).

electrical

4

components as described

8

in

system (Chapter

Check the operation

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (see previous Sec-

pump faulty (Chapter 4). Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components (see Chapter 5). 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ). 8 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see preFuel

vious Section). Distributor loose, causing ignition timing to change. Turn the distribuas necessary to start the engine, then set the ignition timing as soon as possible (Chapter 1). 1 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil (Chapters).

9

condition.

Engine lopes while

idling or idles erratically

of

the previous Section.

6

tor

good

4).

tion).

5

in

not start

Vacuum

leakage. Check the mounting bolts/nuts at the carburetor/ body and intake manifold for tightness. Make sure all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will 1

throttle

also detect leaks. Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapters 1 and 6). 3 4 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1 ). Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor (carbureted 5 models) (see Chapter 4). Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4). 6 Leaking head gasket. Perform a compression check (Chapter 2). 7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). 8

2

Troubleshooting

22

9

Engine misses

at idle

speed

(Chapter

3

Ignition timing incorrect

4

Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, faulty

1 ).

1 and 5). need of adjustment or worn ex-

plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters

Carburetor or fuel injection system cessively (Chapter 4). 5

2

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter 1 ). Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and

3

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

1

5).

6

1 ).

um 7

10

clogged and/or

impurities in the fuel

system (Chapter

1

Fuel

2

Faulty or incorrectly

3

Fault

4

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

5

Check for cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires and

filter

Pinging or knocking engine acceleration or uphill

gapped spark plugs (Chapter

Defective spark plug wires (Chapter

7

Faulty emissions system

8

Low

1 ).

1 ).

components (Chapter

6).

1

Idle

2

Fuel

stalls

speed

(Chapter

8).

filter

incorrect. Refer to the VECI label and Chapter 1 clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system

1).

components damp

Distributor

4

Fault

5

Faulty emissions system

6

Faulty or incorrectly

in

Vacuum

or

damaged (Chapter

5).

the fuel system or sensors (Chapters 4 and 6).

components (Chapter 6). gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1

spark plug wires (Chapter

um

2 3 4

Fault

)

.

Also check the

1).

in

Section

1

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

Fault

3

Excessive play

1 ).

the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). in

the distributor shaft. At the

rotor, faulty distributor

Faulty or incorrectly

same

time,

cap, wires, etc. (Chapters

gapped spark plugs (Chapter

1

check for a and 5).

1 ).

Carburetor not adjusted properly or excessively worn (carbureted models) (Chapter 4).

5 6

in

need

of

(Chapter 1). adjustment (carbureted models) (Chapter

4).

Improper spark plugs. Check the plug type against the VECI label located in the engine compartment. Also check the plugs and wires for damage (Chapter 1). Worn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5). 6 7

Faulty emissions system (Chapter 6).

8

Vacuum

leak.

Check as described

in

Engine diesels (continues to run)

Section

9.

after switching off

1 Idle speed too high. Refer to Chapter 1 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 3 Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1 ). 4 Thermo-controlled air cleaner heat valve not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 6). 5 Excessive engine operating temperature. Probable causes of this are a malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water pump (see Chapter 3).

Faulty coil (Chapter

5).

Brakes binding (Chapter 1 ). Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1 ). 8 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 9 1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1 ). 1 Emissions control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 1 Use of substandard fuel. Fill the tank with the proper octane fuel. 1 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with a compression tester, which will detect leaking valves and/or a blown head gasket (Chapter 2).

electrical

system

Battery will not hold a charge

16

2

4

the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).

8.

Engine lacks power

damaged

rat-

leak at the carburetor/throttle body, intake manifold or vacu-

hoses. Check as described

in

in

Carburetor

Engine 12

the tank with fuel of the proper octane

Ignition timing incorrect

15

3

7

2).

Vacuum leaks atthe carburetor/throttle body, intake manifold or vacu-

Engine

Fill

5

uneven cylinder compression pressures. Remove the spark

(see Section

Incorrect grade of fuel.

1

ing

plugs and test the compression with a gauge (Chapter 9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).

um hoses

sounds during

1 ).

1 ).

6

or

1 ).

the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).

in

damaged distributor components (Chapter

11

Vacuum leak at the carburetor/throttle body, intake manifold or vacuhoses. Check as described in Section 8. Valves sticking (Chapter 2).

Engine misses throughout driving speed range 14

10

in

1

Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter

2

Electrolyte level low or battery discharged (Chapter

3

Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter

4 5 6

Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).

to

Loose, broken or faulty wiring Short

in

in

1 ).

1 ).

1 ).

the charging circuit (Chapter

5).

the vehicle wiring causing a continual drain on battery (refer

Chapter 12 and the Wiring Diagrams).

7

Battery defective internally.

7

17

Fault

Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter

in

Ignition light fails to

come on when key

is

5). 1 ).

turned on

Engine backfires 1

1

the alternator or charging circuit (Chapter

1

2 2

go out

2

18 13

Ignition light fails to

Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).

Instrument cluster warning

light

bulb defective (Chapter

Alternator faulty (Chapter 5). Fault in the instrument cluster printed circuit,

3 holder (Chapter 12).

1

2).

dashboard wiring or bulb

23

Troubleshooting Fuel system

1

Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the cooling system pressure

tested.

2 1

9

Excessive fuel consumption

clogged

element (Chapter

1

Dirty or

2

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter

3

Choke

air filter

sticking or improperly adjusted (carbureted

25

2 3

4 5

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1

2 3

4

4).

Cooling system 21

Too much coolant

in the system (Chapter 1 ). Coolant boiling away due to overheating (see Section 1 5). External or internal leakage (see Sections 23 and 24). Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested.

Poor coolant circulation

1 Inoperative water pump. A quick test closed with your hand while the engine

Leak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4). Tank overfilled. Fill only to automatic shut-off. Evaporative emissions system canister clogged (Chapter 6). Vapor leaks from system lines (Chapter 4). Carburetor or fuel injection system internal parts excessively worn or

out of adjustment (Chapter

Coolant loss

models) (see

26

1

should feel

hose You the surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (see Chapis

to pinch the top radiator

is idling,

then

let

it

loose.

ter 1).

2 Restriction in the cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system (Chapter 1 ). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed. 3 Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1 ). 4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Clutch

Overheating

27

Insufficient coolant in the system (Chapter 1 ). Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1 ). Radiator core blocked or radiator grille dirty and restricted (see Chap-

pressed to the floor and out of Reverse)

Fails to release (pedal

does not move 1

in-

2).

1 ).

1 ).

Chapter 1). Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 4 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 5 Carburetor or fuel injection system internal parts excessively worn or 6 damaged (Chapter 4). 7 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 1 ).

20

Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle the engine and

spect (Chapter

shift lever

freely in

ter 3).

2

Leak in the clutch hydraulic system. Check the master cylinder, slave and lines (Chapter 8). Clutch plate warped or damaged (Chapter 8).

4

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). 5 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have the cap pressure 6 tested by gas station or repair shop. 7 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1 ).

3

Worn

22

2

2 3

1

cylinder

28

1

Overcooling

or dry clutch release shaft bushing (Chapter 8).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) Linkage out of adjustment (Chapter 8). oil soaked or lining worn. Remove clutch (Chapter 8) and

Clutch plate

inspect.

Thermostat

23

faulty

(Chapter

3).

3

Clutch plate not seated.

one

to seat.

29

External coolant leakage

Deterioratedordamagedhosesorlooseclamps. Replace hoses and/ clamps at the hose connections (Chapter 1 ). 2 Water pump seals defective. If this is the case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plug leaking (Chapter 1 or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chapter 2). 1

or tighten the

It

may

take 30 or 40 normal starts for a

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

Oil on clutch plate 1 any leakage source.

lining.

Remove

is

new

engaged

(Chapter 8) and inspect. Correct

2 Worn or loose engine or transaxle mounts. These units move slightly when the clutch is released. Inspect the mounts and bolts (Chapter 2). Worn splines on clutch plate hub. Remove the clutch components 3

(Chapter 8) and inspect. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel.

Remove

the clutch

components

)

and

30 24

Internal coolant leakage

Note Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil. Check the dipstick and inside of the cylinder head cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake. :

1

2

inspect.

Squeal or rumble with clutch (pedal depressed)

fully

disengaged

Worn, defective or broken release bearing (Chapter 8). Worn or broken pressure plate springs (or diaphragm fingers) (Chap-

ter 8).

24

31

Troubleshooting

Clutch pedal stays on floor

when disengaged

Automatic transaxle Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle, it's difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this component. For

Note:

Linkage or release bearing binding. Inspect the linkage or remove the components as necessary.

clutch

problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken service department or a transmission shop.

General

38

Manual transaxle

to

a dealer

mechanism problems

shift

Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on autoCommon problems which may be attributed to poorly

1

matic transaxles.

32

Noisy

in

Neutral with engine running

adjusted linkage are:

Engine starting Indicator 1

Input shaft bearing worn.

2

Damaged main

3

Worn countershaft bearings. Worn or damaged countershaft end

4

33

Noisy

in all

on

in

gears other than Park or Neutral. a gear other than the one

shifter pointing to

actually being selected.

drive gear bearing.

Vehicle

moves when

Park.

in

2

Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.

39

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

play shims.

gears

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the throttle cable to enable the transaxle to downshift properly.

1

Any

2

Insufficient lubricant

of the

above causes, and/or: (see the checking procedures

in

Chapter

40

1

Transaxle slips, shifts rough, in forward or reverse gears

]

is

noisy or has no drive

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -fluid level. 1

34

Noisy

in

one

Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condi-

2

particular gear

Chapter 1 Correct fluid level as necessary needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause. tion of the fluid

or

1

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth

2

Worn

or

damaged

for that particular gear.

in

.

if

synchronizer for that particular gear. Fluid leakage

41

35

as described

change the fluid and filter

1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown by air flow to the trans-

Slips out of high gear

axle.

2 1

Transaxle loose on clutch housing (Chapter

2

Shift rods interfering with the

Chapter

Shift

4

Dirt

rods not working freely (Chapter

Worn

leak,

first

remove

all

built-up dirt

and grime from around

will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where

the leak

7).

between the transaxle case and engine or misalignment

transaxle (Chapter

5

7).

engine mounts or clutch lever (see

7).

3

To pinpoint a

the transaxle. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning

7).

or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7).

is

coming from.

Common

areas of leakage are:

Pan: Tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the pan gasket as necessary (see Chapter 7).

a)

of the

b)

Filler

pipe Replace the rubber seal where the pipe enters the trans:

axle case.

Transaxle

c)

oil

lines:

Tighten the connectors where the lines enter

the transaxle case and/or replace the lines.

36

Difficulty in

d)

Vent pipe: Transaxle overfilled and/or water procedures, Chapter 1).

e)

Speedometer connector: Replace the O-ring where the speedom-

engaging gears

eter cable enters the transaxle

Chapter 1 ). Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make a thorough 2 inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7). 1

Clutch not releasing completely (see clutch adjustment

Oil

Excessive amount of lubricant in the transaxle (see Chapter checking procedures). Drain lubricant as required.

2

Driveaxle

(Chapter

7).

oil

7).

Driveaxles Clicking noise in turns

Worn or damaged outer joint. Check for cut or damaged seals. Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).

leakage

rect

1

case (Chapter

(see checking

in

42 37

in fluid

seal or

speedometer

oil

seal

in

need

of

1

for cor-

replacement

43

Knock or clunk when accelerating Worn

or

damaged

inner joint.

as necessary (Chapter

8).

after coasting

Check for cut or damaged

seals. Repair

25

Troubleshooting 2

Shudder or vibration during acceleration

44

Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect

(Chapter

Chapter 3

correct as necessary

or

damaged CV

joints.

Replace

4

Repair or replace as necessary (see

50

8).

Sticking

Chapter

lines.

8).

Worn

2

Have checked and

angle.

joint

system hoses and

Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts loose. Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

3

Excessive

1

all

parts as necessary.

CV

joint

Excessive

effort required to

stop vehicle

assembly. Correct or replace as necessary (see

Power brake booster

not operating properly (Chapter 9). Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary (Chapter 9).

8).

1

2

One or more caliper pistons or wheel

3

Rear axle

spect and rebuild as required (Chapter

Brake

4

45

No

1

Road

2

Tire noise. Inspect tires

noise.

Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight

an unequal manner.

Pedal travels to the floor with

It

will

take a while for

(or rotor).

damaged or oil contaminated disc brake pads on one side.

in Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake pad material or disc on one side. nspect and correct as necessary. Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and 3

little

resistance

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

Remove and inspect (Chapter 9). Remove (Chapter 9) and check for excessive

1

Caliper improperly installed.

2

Disc or drum defective.

lateral

Defective,

drum

Little or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking wheel cylinder(s), leaking caliper piston(s), loose, damaged or disconnected brake lines. Inspect the entire system and correct as necessary.

52

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1

material to seat against the

1 ).

51

46

new

re-

9).

corrective procedures available.

and check tire pressures (Chapter Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 1 ).

in

pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and

New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated.

5 the

3

linings or

place as required (Chapter

Noise

cylinders seized or sticking. In-

9).

it

runout and parallelism.

with a

Have the disc or drum resurfaced or replace

new one.

Inspect as described

2

I

tighten

4

all

bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 10).

Remove damage (Chapter 9).

Defective caliper assembly.

stuck piston or other

the caliper and inspect for a

Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied)

47

Suspension and steering systems 53

Vehicle pulls to one side

uneven (Chapter

1

Tire pressures

2

Defective

3 4 5

Excessive wear

(Chapter

tire

Front end

in

in

1 ).

1 ).

suspension or steering components (Chapter

need

1

0).

of alignment.

Front brakes dragging. Inspect the brakes as described

Chapter 9.

in

The noise comes from the wear sensor rub-

Disc brake pads worn out.

bing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles) or the actual pad backing plate itself

with

if

the material

is

completely worn away. Replace the pads

new ones immediately (Chapter 9).

pletely

scribed

If

54

Shimmy, shake or vibration

the pad material has worn com-

away, the brake discs should be inspected in Chapter 9.

for

damage as

de-

1

Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round.

Have professionally bal-

anced. Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment rear wheel bearings (Chapter 1 ). Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged 3 (Chapter 10). 2

48

Excessive brake pedal travel

Partial brake system 1 and correct as required.

failure.

Inspect the entire system (Chapter 9)

Insufficient fluid in the master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1 ), add fluid and bleed the system if necessary (Chapter 9). Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops 3 while the vehicle is in Reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove the drums and inspect the self-adjusters (Chapter 9).

55

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

2

1

1

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

Air in the hydraulic lines.

Bleed the brake system (Chapter

9).

1

0).

Broken or weak springs and/or suspension components. Inspect as described in Chapter 10.

56

49

Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a set (Chapter

2

Excessively

stiff

steering

power steering

1

Lack

2

Incorrect

3

Front end out of alignment.

of fluid in tire

fluid reservoir

pressures (Chapter

1 ).

(Chapter

1 ]

26

57

Troubleshooting

Excessive play

1

Excessive wear

2

Steering gearbox

in

in

60

steering

suspension or steering components (Chapter

damaged (Chapter

1

0).

1

2

10).

3

Excessive

tire

wear on outside edge

pressures incorrect (Chapter 1 ). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have professionally Inflation

aligned.

4

58

pump

drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter

1

Steering

2

Fluid level low (Chapter

3 4

Air in

59

1

0).

1 ).

Hoses or lines restricted. Inspect and replace parts as necessary. power steering system. Bleed the system (Chapter 10).

Excessive

tire

61

wear (not specific

to

tire

wear on inside edge

Inflation

Front end alignment incorrect.

3

Loose or damaged steering

62 pressures (Chapter

pressures incorrect (Chapter

1

2

1 ).

Have professionally aligned. components (Chapter 1 0).

one area)

Incorrect

2

Tires out-of-balance. Have professionally balanced. Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter

tire

Excessive

1 ).

1

3 4

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter

Lack of power assistance

Tire tread

worn

in

one place

1 ).

1

0).

1

Tires out-of-balance.

2

Damaged

3

Defective

or buckled wheel. Inspect tire

(Chapter

1 ).

and replace

if

necessary.

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Contents filter replacement Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change Automatic transaxle fluid level check

31

Battery check

11

Air

and maintenance

Brake check Carburetor choke check Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) Driveaxle boot check Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement Engine oil and oil filter change Evaporative emissions control system check and canister replacement Exhaust system check Fluid level checks Fuel filter replacement Fuel system check Fuel tank cap gasket replacement Idle speed check and adjustment

17 7 16

Manual transaxle Manual transaxle

lubricant

change check

lubricant level

Oxygen sensor replacement Positive crankcase ventilation

(PCV) valve

check and replacement

27

Power

10 14

Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Steering and suspension check Thermostatically controlled air cleaner check (carburetor-equipped models only) Throttle positioner adjustment check (carburetor-equipped models only) Tire and tire pressure checks

29 21

12 8

34 22 4 18 19

37 30

Introduction

1

Maintenance schedule

2

32 23 36

steering fluid level check

Tire rotation

Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Valve clearance check and adjustment Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

35 6

32 25

26 20 28 33 5

15 3 13

24 9

28

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Specifications

Recommended Engine

lubricants

and

fluids

oil

SG

SG/CD

Type

API grade

Viscosity

See accompanying

Manual transaxle

fluid

II

lubricant

fluid

DOT 3 DOT 3

Power

steering system fluid

Dexron

fluid

brake brake II

fluid fluid

ATF

—

/« OLOOK s« \_ FOR THIS 5\ iow30 !~a LABEL '

—

HOT

/

WEATHER °

oil

II

differential lubricant

Clutch

Brake

multigrade and fuel efficient

chart

Unleaded gasoline, 87 octane or higher Dexron ATF Dexron ATF API GL-5 SAE 75W90 or 80W90 gear oil

Fuel

Automatic transaxle Automatic transaxle

or

y§

%

r

F

°c •

-38

50

10

40- -

,4

i(KH

7 12
-

'-W--

u

YSi

15W-40 (OR 20W-40.20W-50)

For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade oil for the expected temperature range

10W-30 PREFERRED (OR 10W-40, 10W-50)

SAE 5W-30 SAE VISCOSITY GRADE

COLO

WEATHER

Ignition

LOWEST

HIGHEST

system

Spark plug type and gap

Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label

in

the engine compartment

Spark plug wire resistance Ignition timing

Firing order

Cylinder

Less than 25000 ohms Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label the engine compartment 1

numbers

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

-3-4-2

1-2-3-4

Cooling system capacity Nova

6.3 Qts

Prizm

5.6 Qts

Accessory drivebelt tension (with Burroughs BTG-20 95506-00020, Nippondenso BT373F tension gauge) - used belt Power

steering

pump

DOHC

engine

1988 All

others

115 + 20 lbs. 80 + 20 lbs.

GM J 23600-B or

\n

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

29

Alternator 1 988 DOHC engine AH others Air conditioning compressor

1 1 5 + 20 130 + 20

Nova

lbs. lbs.

80 ± 20 lbs. 100 + 20 lbs.

Pnzm

Clutch pedal Freeplay

1985 and 1986 1987-on

1/2 to 29/32 in (13 to 3/1

6

to

19/32

in (5

to

23 mm) 15

mm)

Height

Nova

5-5/32 to 6-3/64

Prizm

5.71 to 6.10

in

in

mm) mm)

(144 to 154

(145 to 155

Brakes Brake pad/shoe lining thickness (minimum) Parking brake adjustment Prizm GSI AH others

3/64

5 4

to to

in (1

mm)

8 clicks 7 clicks

Valve clearances* Intake valve

0.008

in

(0.20

mm)

Exhaust valve SOHC engines DOHC engines

0.01 2

in

(0.30

0.01

in

(0.25

mm) mm)

*

Note: The SOHC engine must be at normal operating temperature when the valve clearances are checked/adjusted- the DOHC engine must be COLD.

Balljoint allowable

movement

in (0

Torque specifications

mm)

Ft-ibs

Automatic transaxle

Pan

4 7

bolts

Filter bolts

Drain plug

Manual transaxle drain and Fuel

filter

fill

36 29

plugs

banjo bolts (fuel-injected engines only)

21

Spark plugs

13

Wheel

76

lug nuts

Introduction This Chapter

is

designed

hicles with the goals of ability in

to help

maximum

home mechanics

maintain their ve-

performance, economy, safety and

reli-

mind.

Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjust-

ments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Re-

accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of various components. Adhering to the mileage/time maintenance schedule and following the step-by-step procedures, which is simply a preventive maintenance program, will result in maximum reliability and vehicle service life. Keep in fer to the

mind that

it

is

a comprehensive program - maintaining some items but not will not produce the same results.

others at the specified intervals

As you service the vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together because of the nature of theparticular procedure you're performing or because of the close proximity of two otherwise unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it makes good sense to check the brakes, since the wheels are already removed. Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows. The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or an experienced do-it-yourselfer.

30

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

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Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

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/•/'/•#/•/•» Shoulder wear

•

Toe wear

•

Overinflation

•

Measure and

of rotation

Rotate

Incorrect

camber

or caster

adjust pressure

• Lack

• Repair or replace axle and suspension parts

tires

• Malfunctioning suspension

• Unbalanced wheel

• Repair

or replace

suspension parts

• Balance

or

replace

5.3

This chart

• Out-of-round brake drum

• Turn

• Lack

• Rotate

of rotation

or replace.

tires

Uneven wear

Center wear

will

If

any of these conditions are noted, take the vehicle to a tire shop or service 4

After

37

help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary

Chapter

38

5.4a

if

a tire loses air

on a steady

basis,

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

check the valve core

make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches are commonly available at auto parts stores and service stations)

first

to

the valve stem core to tread for an object that that

make sure it's tight (see illustration). Examine the may have embedded itself in the tire or for a "plug"

may have begun to leak (radial tire punctures are sometimes repaired

in a puncture). If a puncture is suspected, it can be easily verified by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the suspected area (see illustration). The soapy solution will bubble if there's a leak. Unless the puncture is unusually large, a tire shop or service station can usu-

with a plug that's installed

ally repair

the

each

tire for

evidence

of

brake

you see any, inspect the brakes immediately. air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, improves mileage and enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are often inac-

fluid.

6

tire is

turned slowly - leaks

will

cause small bubbles to appear

Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap and push gauge firmly onto the valve stem (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge and compare the figure to the recommended tire pressure shown on the label attached to the inside of the glove compartment door. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recommended pressure. 8

the

if

9

tire.

Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of

5

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the

Don't forget to keep the spare

(refer to

tire inflated to

your owner's manual or the

tire

the specified pressure

sidewall).

If

Correct

curate.

Always check tire pressure when the tires are cold. Cold, in this case, not been driven over a mile in the three hours preceding a tire pressure check. A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not uncommon once the tires are warm. 7

means the vehicle has

To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don't forget the spare!)

5.8

6

Power steering

Refer

to illustrations

fluid level

6.2

and

check

6.6

Warni ng The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 Unlike manual steering, the power steering system relies on fluid :

which may, over a period of time, require replenishing. The fluid reservoir for the power steering pump is located 2 belt side of the engine near the firewall (see illustration).

6.2

at the drive-

The power steering reservoir (shown here with the cleaner removed),

is

located near the firewall

air

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Automatic transaxle

39

fluid level

check

Refer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.6 Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. The level of the automatic transaxle fluid should be carefully main1 :

Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transaxle damage. The transaxle fluid level should be checked when the engine is at nor2 mal operating temperature. Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. Allow the fluid to cool for about 30 minutes. Park on level ground, apply the parking brake and start the engine. 3 While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear ranges, beginning and ending in Park. With the engine still idling, remove the dipstick (see illustration). 4 Wipe the fluid off the dipstick with a clean rag and reinsert it until the 5 cap seats. Pull the dipstick out again. The fluid level should be in the HOT range 6 (see illustration). If the level is at the low side of the range, add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time and keep checking the level until it's cortained.

The power steering fluid level should be kept between the Hot and Cold marks (arrows) on the dipstick

6.6

rect.

The condition

8 If

3

For the check, the front wheels should be pointed straight ahead and

the engine should be

4

Use a clean

cap. This

will

off.

should also be checked along with the is

level.

black or a dark reddish-brown color,

fluid should be changed (see Section 31). If doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and odor.

or

if

smells burned, the

it

you're

rag to wipe off the reservoir cap and the area around the

of the fluid

the fluid at the end of the dipstick

in

help prevent any foreign matter from entering the reservoir

during the check.

Remove the cap and note the dipstick attached to Wipe off the fluid with a clean rag, reinsert the dipstick, then withdraw and read the fluid level. The level should be between the HOT and COLD marks (see illustration). Never allow the fluid level to drop below the

5 6

it.

Engine

8

oil

and

filter

change

it

COLD 7

If

mark.

8

If

is

required, pour the specified type directly into the

a funnel

to

prevent

spills.

the reservoir requires frequent

fluid additions, all

hoses, hose connections and the power steering carefully

to illustrations 8.3, 8.9, 8. 14

and 8. 18

Frequent oil changes are the most important preventive maintenance procedures that can be done by the home mechanic. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine 1

additional fluid

reservoir, using

Refer

checked

power steering

pump and rack should be

for leaks.

wear.

Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every other oil change, a new filter should be installed every time the oil is changed. 2

LOW COLO

7.4

The automatic transaxle dipstick to the battery

is

located adjacent

Check the fluid with the transaxle at normal operating temperature - the level should be kept in the Hot range (between the two notches)

7.6

Chapter

40

*

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

©

8.9

To avoid rounding off the hex on the drain plug, use the proper size box-end wrench or a six-point socket

/ 8.3

These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

Drain pan - It should be prevent spills

shallow

fairly

in

depth, but wide to

Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent burns) Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug is tight and a long breaker bar is needed to loosen it Socket - To be used with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the drain plug - 6-point preferred) Filter

wrench -

This

is

a metal band-type wrench, which

requires clearance around the Filter

wrench -

This type

fits

filter to be effective on the bottom of the

filter

and

can be turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different size wrenches are available for different types of filters)

8.14

The oil filter is usually on very tight and will require a wrench for removal - DO NOT use the wrench to

special

tighten the

Gather together all necessary tools and materials before beginning procedure (see illustration). 4 You should have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy to mop up any spills. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by

filter

3

this

a bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jack. If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarize 5 yourself with the locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so note how they are situated to avoid touching them when working under the vehicle. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. If the new oil or 6 any tools are needed, use this warm-up time to gather everything necessary for the job. Refer to Recommended lubricants and fluids at the beginning of this Chapter for the type of oil required. 7 With the engine oil warm (warm engine oil will drain better and more built-up sludge will be removed with it), raise and support the vehicle.

Make sure it's safely supported! Move all necessary tools, rags and newspapers under the vehicle. Set the drain pan under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil will initially flow from the pan with some force; position the pan accordingly. 8

Being careful not to touch any of the hot exhaust components, use a to remove the drain plug near the bottom of the oil pan (see illustration). Depending on how hot the oil is, you may want to wear gloves 9

wrench

while unscrewing the plug the 1

Allow the old

pan as the 1

After

oil

all

oil

1

few

turns. It

may be necessary to move the

flow slows to a trickle.

the

oil

has drained, wipe

Small metal particles taminate the

final

to drain into the pan.

new

may

off

the drain plug with a clean rag.

cling to the plug

and would immediately con-

oil.

Clean the area around the drain plug opening and reinstall the plug. it securely with the wrench. If a torque wrench is available, use it to

Tighten

tighten the plug. 1

Move

the drain pan into position under the

oil filter.

Use the filter wrench to loosen the oil filter (see illustration). Chain or metal band filter wrenches may distort the filter canister, but doesn't mat1

it

be discarded anyway. Completely unscrew the old filter. Be careful;

ter since the filter will

15 oil 1

inside the

filter

into the drain

it's full

of

oil.

Empty the

pan.

Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they're the same

type.

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance 22

41

Pour the fresh oil through the should be used to prevent spills.

23

Pour four quarts

low the

oil

Section 4

of fresh

oil

filler

opening

into the engine.

A funnel

Wait a few minutes to alcheck the level on the oil dipstick (see level is above the L mark, start the engine into the engine.

to drain into the pan, then if

necessary).

If

the

oil

and allow the new oil to circulate. 24 Run the engine for only about a minute and then shut it off. Immediately look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan drain plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, tighten with a bit more force. 25 With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick and add more oil as necessary. 26 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 27 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair shops and gas stations will normally accept the oil, which can be refined and used again. After the oil has cooled it can be drained into a container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport to a disposal

9

8.18

Lubricate the gasket with clean oil before installing the filter on the engine

site.

Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

Refer

to illustrations 9.5, 9.6a,

9.6b and

9.

The windshield wiper and blade assembly should be inspected periodically for damage, loose components and cracked or worn blade ele1

ments.

Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones. 5 Lift the arm assembly away from the glass for clearance and detach the blade assembly from the arm (see illustration). Pull the top end of the rubber blade element down until the rubber 6 blade is free of the end slot and you can see the replacement hole (see illustrations). Remove the rubber blade from the frame and discard it. 2

1

the

Use a clean rag to remove all oil, oil filter mounts to the engine.

1 Apply a light coat of clean (see illustration). 1

Attach the

oil

dirt

to the

new filter to the engine,

and sludge from the area where

rubber gasket on the

new oil filter

following the tightening directions

on the filter canister or packing box. Most filter manufacturers recommend against using a wrench due to the possibility of overtightening the filter and damaging the seal. 20 Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under the vehicle, being careful not printed

to spill the

21

Move

oil in

the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.

to the

engine compartment and locate the

oil filler

cap.

* 9.5

Remove

the screws (arrows) to detach the wiper blade

from the arm

9.6a

To remove the old wiper blade element, pull the top end down until you can see the replacement hole in the frame

of the element

.

.

42

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

PROTRUSIONS

9.6b

.

.

.

To install a new element, insert the end of the blade with the small protrusions into the replacement hole and work the rubber along the slot in the blade frame - once all the rubber is in the frame slot, allow it to expand and fill in the end

then pull the element tab out of the hole (note the and slide the element out of the frame

9.7

a new rubber wiper element,

3

relationship to the frame)

7

To

install

insert the

end with the small

protrusions (see illustration) into the replacement hole and work the rub-

ber along the slot 8

Once

in

the blade frame.

the rubber

is in

the frame

slot,

allow

it

to

expand and

fill

in

the

end.

Loosen the locknut and turn the adjustment bolt until the height is cor-

rect.

Tighten the locknut and recheck the pedal height.

4 5

Push down on the clutch pedal and use a small

the distance that

it

moves

freeplay should be within the limits listed it

10

Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment

6

if

to illustration 10.

in this

measure The

is felt.

Chapter's specifications.

If

must be adjusted. Loosen the locknut and turn the pushrod until the freeplay is correct. Tighten the locknut and recheck the freeplay. Repeat the adjustment

isn't,

7 Refer

steel ruler to

freely before the clutch resistance

it

necessary.

8

Reinstall the air duct

and dash panel.

Measure the clutch pedal height (see illustration) and compare the measurement to that listed in this Chapter's specifications. 2 If the pedal height is incorrect, remove the lower dash panel and air 1

duct for access. 11

Battery check and maintenance

Refer

to illustrations 11.1, 11.6, 11.7a, 11.7b

Warn ng i

:

Certain precautions

icing the battery.

and

11.7c

must be followed when checking and serv-

Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable,

ent in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco

is

always pres-

and all other open flames

and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulfuric acid, in your eyes.

It

will also

which

will cause injury if splashed on

ruin clothes and painted surfaces.

the battery cables, always detach the negative cable

your skin or

When removing

first

and connect it

last!

Battery maintenance is an important procedure which will help ensure you aren't stranded because of a dead battery. Several tools are required for this procedure (see illustration). 2 When checking/servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all 1

that

accessories 3

A

B 1

2

Clutch pedal adjustment details

Pedal freeplay Pedal height Pedal freeplay adjustment point Pedal height adjustment point

called maintenance-free), battery

is

standard

equipment on these vehicles. The cell caps cannot be removed, no electrolyte checks are required and water cannot be added to the cells. However, a standard aftermarket battery has been installed, the following maintenance procedure can be used. 4 Remove the caps and check the electrolyte level in each of the battery cells (see Section 4). It must be above the plates. There's usually a splitring indicator in each cell to indicate the correct level. If the level is low, add distilled water only, then reinstall the cell caps. Caution: Oven'illing the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion and damage to nearby components. if

10.1

off.

A sealed (sometimes

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

11 .6

bolts;

Use a wrench

to

43

check the tightness of the battery cable

when removing corroded

bolts, special battery pliers

may

be needed

11.1 1

Tools and materials required for battery maintenance

Face shield/safety goggles - When removing corrosion

2

with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into your eyes Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be

3

used to neutralize corrosion Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the

battery posts

will

help prevent corrosion

4

5 6

7

8

Battery post/cable cleaner - This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each post, directly under the cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely

11.7a

Battery terminal corrosion usually appears as fluffy

light,

powder

loosened. This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off the post without damage. Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is another cleaning tool which is a slightly different version of number 4 above, but it

does the same thing Rubber gloves - Another safety item servicing the battery;

to

consider

remember that's acid inside

when the battery!

The external condition of the battery should be checked periodically. Look for damage such as a cracked case. 6 Check the tightness of the battery cable bolts (see illustration) to ensure good electrical connections. Inspect the entire length of each cable, looking for cracked or abraded insulation and frayed conductors. 7 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits) (see illustration) is evident, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush and reinstall them (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly or grease to the terminals. 8 Make sure the battery carrier is in good condition and the holddown clamp is tight. If the battery is removed (see Chapter 5 for the removal and installation procedure), make sure that no parts remain in the bottom of the carrier when it's reinstalled. When reinstalling the hold-down clamp, don't 5

overtighten the nuts.

11

.7b

removed

When

cleaning the cable clamps, all corrosion must be clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don't remove too much material)

(the inside of the

44

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

K SMALL CRACKS

GREASE

K ALWAYS CHECK GLAZED

the underside of the belt.

11.7c

Regardless of the type of tool used to clean the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface should be the result

1

Here are some of the more

2.3

common problems associated

with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an

untimely breakdown)

Corrosion on the carrier, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Apply the mixture with a

9

small brush,

10

let

Any metal

it

work, then rinse

off

it

parts of the vehicle

with plenty of clean water.

damaged by

The number

2

alternator

corrosion should be

of belts

cessories installed. or

power

One

used on a

and water pump.

If

depends on the acpower from the crankshaft to the

particular vehicle

belt transmits

the vehicle

is

equipped with

air

conditioning

steering, these are driven by separate belts.

With the engine

open the hood and locate the

on the

coated with a zinc-based primer, then painted. Additional information on the battery, charging and jump starting can 1

3

be found in the front of this manual and in Chapter 5. 1 Always replace the battery with a like kind and size.

the adhesive rubber on both sides of the core, core separation from the

right side of

off,

drivebelts

the engine. With a flashlight, check each belt for separation of

a severed core, separation of the ribs from the adhesive rubber,

belt side,

cracking or separation of the

ribs,

and

torn or

worn

ribs or

cracks

inner ridges of the ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying

12

Drivebelt check, adjustment

and replacement

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.5, 12.6a, 12.6b and 12.7 Warn ing The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. :

Check 1

The alternator, power steering and air conditioning compressor drive-

belts, also referred to

ger's)

simply as "fan" belts, are located at the right (passen-

side of the engine compartment.

adjustment of the drivebelts

is critical to

The

condition and

proper

the operation of the engine. Since

they stretch and deteriorate as they get older, they must be inspected periodically.

and

in

the

glaz-

ing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the belt where you can't see it. If any of the above conditions are evident, replace the belt (go to Step 8). 4 To check the tension of each belt in accordance with factory specifications, install a belt tension gauge on the belt (Nippondenso BTG-20, Borroughs BT-33-73F, GM J-23600-B or equivalent). Measure the tension in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and compare your measurement to the drivebelt tension listed in this Chapter's specifications for a used belt. Note: A "used" belt is defined as any belt which has been operated more than five minutes on the engine; run a new belt for at least five minutes and readjust it. If you don't have either of the special tools, and cannot borrow one, 5 the following rule of thumb method is recommended: Push firmly on the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway between the pulleys and note how far the belt can be moved (deflected). Measure the deflection with a ruler (see illustration). The belt should deflect 1/4-inch the distance from pulley center to pulley center is between 7 and 11 -inches; the belt should deflect 1 /2-inch if the distance from pulley center to pulley center is between 12 and 16-inches. if

RULER

BELT DEFLECTION

STRAIGHT EDGE

Adjustment 6

If

the alternator or power steering

pump belt must be adjusted,

loosen

the adjustment bolt (see illustrations) that secures the alternator or pow-

pump to the slotted bracket and pivot the alternator or power pump (away from the engine block to tighten the belt, toward the

er steering

steering

block to loosen the

enables you

MAKE SURE RULER IS PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE 12.5

Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and

belt). It's helpful to lever

pump with a large pry bar when

the alternator or power steer-

because the pry bar component until the adjuster bolt is tightened. Be very careful not to damage the aluminum housing of the alternator or power steering pump. Recheck the belt tension using one of the above methods. Repeat this Step until the alternator or power steering ing

ruler

pump

adjusting the belt

to precisely position the

drivebelt tension

is

correct.

Chapter

If

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Typical alternator belt adjuster (arrow)

12.6a

7

1

12.6b

Typical

45

power steering

belt adjuster (arrow)

the air conditioner compressor drivebelt must be adjusted, locate

the idler pulley on the front right corner of the block, just above the

pressor (see illustration). Loosen the center bolt and turn the

com-

idler pulley

Measure the belt tension in accordance with one of the above methods. Repeat this step until the air conditioning compressor driadjuster bolt.

vebelt

is

adjusted. Tighten the center bolt.

Replacement above procedures for drivebelt adjustand remove If you're replacing the power steering belt or air conditioning compressor belt, you'll have to remove the alternator belt belt first because of the way they're arranged on the pulleys. Because of this and because belts tend to wear out more or less together, it's a good idea to replace both belts at the same time. Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley groove so the replacement belts can be installed in the proper positions. Take the old belts to the parts store in order to make a direct compari9 son for length, width and design. 8

To replace a

ment but

10

slip

belt, follow

the belt

off

the

the crankshaft pulley

it.

After replacing a new-style V-ribbed drivebelt,

properly

in

the ribbed grooves

in

the pulleys.

It's

make

sure that

it

fits

essential that the belt be

properly centered. 11

1

Typical air conditioning

2.7

compressor

belt adjuster (arrow)

Adjust the belt(s) as described above.

Underhood hose check and replacement

13

Vacuum hoses Caution Replacement of air conditioning hoses should be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning shop that has the equipment to depressurize the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurized. :

4

quite

It's

1

High temperatures

in

the engine

compartment can cause the deterio-

rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening

and

in

the emis-

new ones

are

made

of the

same

material.

hoses and 6

in

Sec-

ensure correct installation. checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fitthe check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits fittings to

When

over the

fitting for distortion,

which could cause leakage.

A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with 7

Some, but not all, hoses are secured to Where clamps are used, check to be sure they 3

the fittings with clamps.

haven't lost their tension,

If clamps aren't used, make sure the hose has expanded and/or hardened where slips over the fitting, allowing to

allowing the hose to leak. leak.

especially those

Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the

tings in

leaks.

Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found

tion 14.

not

vacuum hoses,

5

ration of the

2

for

them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the

General

common

sions system, to be color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into

it

it

moving engine components such as the

drivebelts. cooling fan, etc.

Chapter

46

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

FRONT Irnum ALWAYS CHECK

hose

chafed cause an for

burned areas that may untimely and costly failure

or

SOFT

— B-*.

hose indicates inside deterioration

This deterioration can contaminate the cooling system and cause particles to clog the radiator

The recommended

15.2

tire

— m~+-

rotation pattern for these vehicles

HARDENED

hose can fail at any time Tightening hose clamps will not seal the connection or stop leaks

Cooling system check

14

Refer

to illustration 14.4

Many major engine

failures can be attributed to a faulty cooling sysequipped with an automatic transaxle, the cooling system also cools the transmission fluid and thus plays an important role 1

SWOLLEN

hose or oil soaked ends in d.icate danger and possible failure from oil or grease contamination Squeeze the hose to locate cracks and breaks that cause leaks

tem.

in

the vehicle

If

is

prolonging transmission

2

The

life.

cooling system should be checked with the engine cold.

before the vehicle

is

Do this

driven for the day or after the engine has been shut off

for at least three hours.

Remove the radiator cap by turning to the left until it reaches a stop. you hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now press down on the cap with the palm of your hand and continue turning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap, inside and out, with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. The coolant inside the radiator should be relatively transparent. If it's rust colored, the system should be drained and refilled (see Section 29). If the coolant level isn't up to the top, add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section 4). 4 Carefully check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with the smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the firewall. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any hose which is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see illustration). Regardless of condition it's a good idea to replace hoses with new ones every two years. 5 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust colored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. If wire-type clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, it may be a good idea to replace them with more secure screw-type clamps. 6 Use a garden hose or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, etc. from the front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser. Be careful not to damage the delicate cooling fins or cut yourself on them. 7 Every other inspection, or at the first indication of cooling system problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don't have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge. 3

it

If

14.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

Fuel hose Warning: There are

certain precautions which

must be taken when

specting or servicing fuel system components. Work

in-

a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. in

Check all rubber fuel

lines for deterioration and chafing. Check espeareas where the hose bends and just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. High quality fuel line, usually identified by the word Fluroelastomer 9 printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines.

8

cially for

1

cracks

in

commonly used on

fuel lines. These clamps and can be "sprung" during spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a

Spring-type clamps are

often lose their tension over a period of time,

removal. Replace

hose

is

all

replaced.

Metal lines 11

,

Sections of metal

pump and

15 line

Tire rotation

are often used for fuel line between the fuel

carburetor or fuel injectors. Check carefully to be sure the line has not been bent or crimped and that cracks have not started in the line. 12 If a section of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing don't have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 1 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and brake proportioning unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection of the brake system.

Refer

to illustration

15.2

The tires should be rotated at the specified intervals and whenever uneven wear is noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and the tires removed anyway, check the brakes (see Section 16) at this time. 2 Radial tires must be rotated in a specific pattern (see illustration). 3 Refer to the information in Jacking and Towing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the vehicle and changing a tire. the brakes are to be checked, do not apply the parking brake as 1

If

stated.

Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from

rolling.

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

holes in each caliper - placing a steel across the hole should enable you to determine the thickness of the remaining pad material for both the

You'll find inspection

16.5

The rear brake shoe lining thickness is measured from the outer surface of the lining to the metal shoe (arrows)

16.12

rule

inner

47

and outer pads (arrows)

Preferably, the entire vehicle should be raised at the same time. This can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and make sure the vehicle is firmly supported. After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and 5 be sure to check the lug nut tightness. 6 For further information on the wheels and tires, refer to Chapter 1 0.

4

Once the pads are removed from the calipers, clean them with brake

8

cleaner and remeasure them with a small steel pocket ruler or a vernier caliper.

Check

9

spots.

If

moved

the disc. Look for score marks,

these conditions

(see Chapter

exist, the

9).

Before installing the wheels, check

1

deep scratches and burned will have to be re-

hub/disc assembly

all

brake lines and hoses

for

dam-

age, wear, deformation, cracks, corrosion, leakage, bends and twists, parthe rubber hoses at the calipers. Check the clamps for tightness and the connections for leakage. Make sure that all hoses and lines are clear of sharp edges, moving parts and the exhaust system. If any of the above conditions are noted, repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or fittings as necessary (refer to Chapter 9). ticularly in the vicinity of

16

Brake check

Note: For detailed 1

illustrations of the

brake system, refer

to

Chapter

9.

addition to the specified intervals, the brakes should be inspected

In

every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect

is

suspected.

Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect: The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed; the

make

brakes

squealing or dragging noises

excessive; the pedal pulsates; brake the

2

tire

when

fluid leaks,

applied; brake travel

is

usually onto the inside of

or wheel.

Loosen the wheel

Rear drum brakes Refer

to illustrations 16.

may contain asbestos,

lug nuts.

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this book, or your owner's manual, if necessary). 3

4

12 and 16.14

Refer to Chapter 9 and remove the rear brake drums. Warning: Brake dust produced by lining wear and deposited on brake components 11

which is hazardous

out with compressed air and

DO NOT blow DO NOT use gasoline or

to your health.

DO NOT inhale

it!

it

solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the brake components are wiped clean with

a

damp rag,

dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and solvent in a covered Try to use non-asbestos replacement parts when-

and labelled container.

Disc brakes (front or rear)

ever possible. 1 Note the thickness of the

Refer

illustration)

5

to illustration

16.5

There are two pads - an outer and an inner- in each caliper. The pads in each caliper (see illustra-

are visible through small inspection holes tion).

6 Check the pad thickness by looking at each end of the caliper and through the inspection hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is less than the specified thickness, replace the pads. Note: Keep in mind that the lining material is riveted

portion

is

not included

or bonded to a metal backing plate

in this

and the metal

measurement.

determine the exact thickness of the remaining pad material by the above method, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, remove the caliper(s), then remove the pads from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7

If it

is difficult

to

lining material on the rear brake shoes (see and look for signs of contamination by brake fluid and grease.

If the lining material is within 1/16-inch of the recessed rivets or metal shoes, replace the brake shoes with new ones. The shoes should also be replaced if they are cracked, glazed (shiny lining surfaces) or contaminated with brake fluid or grease. See Chapter 9 for the replacement proce-

dure.

13 Check the shoe return and hold-down springs and the adjusting mechanism to make sure they're installed correctly and in good condition. Deteriorated or distorted springs,

if

not replaced, could allow the linings to

drag and wear prematurely. 1 Check the wheel cylinders for leakage by carefully peeling back the rubber boots (see illustration). If brake fluid is noted behind the boots, the wheel cylinders must be replaced (see Chapter 9).

48

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Peel the wheel cylinder boot back carefully and check for leaking fluid, indicating the cylinder must be replaced or rebuilt

16.14

7.2

1

On

housing

carburetor-equipped engines, the top of the filter removed by releasing the clips on the sides and unscrewing the wing nut in the center

is

for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with emery cloth, the drums must be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop (see Chapter 9 for more detailed information). 1 Refer to Chapter 9 and install the brake drums. 1 Install the wheels and tighten the wheel lug nuts finger tight. 1 Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle. 1 Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's specifi-

Check the drums

1

spots, which

will

cations.

Parking brake 20 A simple method of checking the parking brake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill with the parking brake set and the transmission in Neutral. If the parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from rolling, is in need of adjustment (see Chapter 9). it

17

Air

filter

replacement

Refer to illustrations 1 7.2 and 1 7,5 Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan.

17.5

Lift

out the

:

At the specified intervals, the air

1

one. 2

The engine

air

filter

cleaner also supplies

should be replaced with a filtered air to

the

new

On carburetor-equipped engines, the filter is located on top of the car-

is replaced by unscrewing the wing nut, detaching the clips from the top of the filter housing and lifting off the cover (see illustration).

On fuel-injected models the air cleaner housing is mounted on the left Remove the screws and the lid off.

inner fender near the shock tower.

4 air

5

lift

While the top cover is off, be careful not to drop anything down cleaner housing. Lift

the

air filter

into the

element out of the housing (see illustration) and wipe

Place the

erly in the

7

Install

new filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure

bottom

it

seats prop-

of the housing.

the top plate and any hoses which

were disconnected. Don't

overtighten the wing nut or screws.

18

Fuel

filter

open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Also, don work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. 't

Carburetor-equipped engines

replacement

1

inner fender, below the brake

mas-

(see illustration). 2 For easier access, pull the filter out of the spring clip so both fittings can be reached (see illustration). Release the hose clamps at the filter fittings and slide them back up 3 the hoses. 4 Disconnect the hoses and remove the filter. Now would be a good time to replace the hoses if they're deteriorated. 5 Push the hoses onto the new filter and position the clamps approximately 1/4-inch back from the ends.

Push the filter back into the spring clip. Check to make sure securely and the hoses aren't kinked. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the filter. 7

6

Warning Gasoline is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke or allow :

to illustrations 18. 1 and 18.2 The fuel filter is located on the left

Refer

ter cylinder

out the inside of the air cleaner housing with a clean rag.

6

air filter element and wipe out the inside of the cleaner housing with a clean rag

PCV system.

buretor and

3

air

it's

held

Chapter

The

18.1

fuel filter is

mounted on the

left

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

inner fender, below the

Unsnap the

18.2

18.8

Fuel

filter

mounting details

(fuel-injected

tings

Crush washer Banjo fitting bolt

tions.

10

Warning: Before removing the fuel filter, the fuel system pressure must be relieved - refer to Chapter 4 for the procedure. Wear eye protection.

Loosen the banjo

fuel filter

fitting

bolts

(see illustration) on both ends of the fitting at the filter). Disconnect both

(use a back-up wrench on the

Remove the

Warning: Certain precautions should be observed when inspecting or servicing the fuel system components. Work in a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) near the work area. Mop up spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. It is a good idea to keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area any time the fuel system is being serviced.

ends.

9

Don't install the fuel filter backwards - make sure the flanged end is facing down (fuel-injected models)

Fuel system check

19

8

out for better

The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the filter.

1 1

18.

it

Using new crush washers - two per banjo fitting - install the banjo fitand tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's specifica-

1

Fuel line

Filter

Fuel-injected engines Refer to illustrations 18.8 and

pull

models)

Crush washer

Banjo fitting bolt Crush washer Fuel line Crush washer

from the clip and access to the hoses

fuel filter

brake master cylinder (arrow)

18.10

49

bracket bolts from the inner fender and remove the

filter

assembly from the support bracket. 1 Install the new filter assembly and tighten the bracket bolts securely. Make sure the filter is installed with the outlet facing up (see illustration).

1

in

2

If

you smell gasoline while driving or after the vehicle has been

sitting

the sun, inspect the fuel system immediately.

Remove

the gas

filler

cap and inspect

The gasket should have an unbroken

if

for

damage and

sealing imprint.

corrosion.

Chapter

50

20.6

Push on the steering gear boot

to

1

check

Tune-up and routine maintenance

for cracks

and

Flex the driveaxle boots by hand to check for cracks and leaking grease

21 .2

lubricant leaks

Inspect the fuel feed and return lines for cracks. Check the metal fuel connections to make sure they are tight. 4 Since some components of the fuel system - the fuel tank and part of the fuel feed and return lines, for example - are underneath the vehicle, they can be inspected more easily with the vehicle raised on a hoist. If that's not possible, raise the vehicle and secure it on jackstands.

3

line

5 filler

With the vehicle raised and safely supported, inspect the gas tank and neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection be-

tween the filler neck and the tank is particularly critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck will leak because of loose clamps or deteriorated rubber. These are problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank (except rubber components). A welding torch or any open flame can easily cause fuel vapors inside the tank to explode.

6

check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped and other damage. Carefully inspect the lines from the tank to the

Carefully

the fuel tank. lines

engine. Repair or replace

damaged

sections as necessary.

it

21

Steering and suspension check

20

With the vehicle raised 4 Raise the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. See Jacking and towing at the front of this book for the proper jacking points. Check the tires for irregular wear patterns and proper inflation. See 5 Section 5 in this chapter for information regarding tire wear and Chapter 1 for the wheel bearing replacement procedures. 6 Inspect the universal joint between the steering shaft and the steering gear housing. Check the steering gear housing for grease leakage or oozing. Make sure that the dust seals and boots are not damaged and that the boot clamps are not loose (see illustration). Check the steering linkage for looseness or damage. Check the tie-rod ends for excessive play. Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all suspension and steering components. While an assistant turns the steering wheel from side to side, check the steering components for free movement, chafing and binding. If the steering components do not seem to be reacting with the movement of the steering wheel, try to determine where the slack is located. 7 Inspect the balljoint boots for damage and leaking grease. Replace the boots with new ones if they are damaged (see Chapter 10).

Driveaxle boot check

Refer Refer

to illustration

20.6

to illustration

Note: For detailed illustrations of the steering and suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.

and grease can cause the boot material to deteriorate prea good idea to wash the boots with soap and water. 2 Inspect the boots for tears and cracks as well as loose clamps (see illustration). If there is any evidence of cracks or leaking lubricant, they must be replaced as described in Chapter 8. (CV)

joints. Oil

maturely, so

With the wheels on the ground 1

21.2

The driveaxle boots are very important because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity 1

With the vehicle stopped and the front wheels pointed straight ahead,

it's

rock the steering wheel gently back-and-forth.

If free play is excessive, a wheel bearing, main shaft yoke, intermediate shaft yoke, lower arm balljoint or steering system joint is worn or the steering gear is out of adjustment or broken. Refer to Chapter 1 for the appropriate repair proce-

front

22

Exhaust system check

dure.

Refer

Other symptoms, such as excessive vehicle body movement over rough roads, swaying (leaning) around corners and binding as the steering wheel is turned, may indicate faulty steering and/or suspension com-

(at least three hours after the vehicle has been check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This should be done on a hoist where unrestricted access is available. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion or damage. Make sure that all brackets and hangers are in good condition and tight (see illustration). At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corro3 sion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty.

2

ponents. 3

Check the shock absorbers by

quickly pushing

the vehicle several times at each corner.

If

down and

releasing

the vehicle does not come back

a level position within one or two bounces, the shocks/struts are worn and must be replaced. When bouncing the vehicle up-and-down, listen for squeaks and noises from the suspension components. Additional information on suspension components can be found in Chapter 10. to

1

to illustration

22.2

With the engine cold

driven),

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

51

23.1

Location of the

manual transaxle check/fill plug - use your finger as a dipstick, as shown, to check the lubricant level

MANUAL TRANSAXLE

22.2 Check the rubber exhaust system hangers (arrows) for cracks and deterioration - replace any that are in poor condition

FIRST

FRONT

24.6

Measure the clearance with a

feeler

gauge

If the transaxle needs more lubricant (if the level is not up to the hole), use a gear oil syringe to add more. Stop filling the transaxle when the lubri-

2

cant begins to run out the hole.

3

Install

the plug and tighten

it

securely. Drive the vehicle a short dis-

tance, then check for leaks.

24.5

Adjust these valves

first

on

SOHC engines 24

and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catalytic converter. If the components can come in contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mounts. 5 Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an indication of engine condition. If the pipe is wet with oil or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of service, including a compression test, a thorough fuel system inspection and adjustment. 4

Rattles

especially the

Manual transaxle lubricant

23

Refer 1

tion

level

check

to illustration 23.

The manual transaxle does not have a dipstick. To check the lubricalevel, raise the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. On the it

radiator side of the transaxle housing, tion).

Remove

edge

of the hole.

see a plug (see illustrashould be up to the lower Use your finger as a dipstick to check the level.

it. If

the lubricant level

is

you

will

correct,

it

Valve clearance check and adjustment

Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. :

SOHC engines to illustrations 24.5, 24. 6, 24. 7 and 24. 1 The valve clearances are checked and adjusted

Refer

with the engine at normal operating temperature. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). Remove the camshaft cover (see Chapter 2, Part A). 3 4 Place the number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke (see Chapter 2, Part A). The number one cylinder rocker arms (closest to the timing belt end of the engine) should be loose (able to move up-and-down slightly) and the camshaft lobes should be facing away from the rocker arms. With the crankshaft in this position the valves labeled "First" can be 5 checked and adjusted (see illustration). 6 First, check and adjust the clearance of both intake valves. Loosen the locknut, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise and insert the ap1

gauge between the intake valve stem and the adjustscrew (see illustration). Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you

propriate size feeler ing

Chapter

52

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

SECOND

24.7

Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver and tighten the

24.11

Adjust these valves next on

SOHC engines

locknut with a wrench

can

feel

a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw

it

from between

the stem and adjusting screw.

Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed. 8 Now adjust both exhaust valves. Loosen the locknut on the exhaust valve adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise and insert the appropriate size feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it from between the stem and adjusting screw. 9 Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed. 1 Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution (360-degrees) until the number four piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. The number four cylinder rocker arms (closest to the transaxle end of the engine) should be loose with the camshaft lobes facing away from the rocker arms. 7

1 Adjust the valves labelled "Second" as described in Steps 6 through 9 (see illustration). 1 Install the camshaft cover and air cleaner assembly.

DOHC engines Referto illustrations 24.

1

7a, 24.17b, 24. 18, 24.20a, 24.20b, 24.20c,

24.21

and 24.22 Note: The following procedure requires a special valve lifter tool set (J 371 41 -A or equivalent). It's impossible to perform this task without one.

The engine should be cold for this procedure. 1 1

1

air,

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the camshaft covers (see Chapter 2, Part A). Blow out the recessed area between the camshafts with compressed if available, to remove any debris that might fall into the cylinders, then

remove the spark plugs (see Section when using compressed air. 1

Set the no.

1

cylinder at Top

25).

Warning: Wear eye protection

Dead Center (TDC) on the compression

stroke by turning the crankshaft pulley

in

a clockwise direction

until

the

IN

2 24.17a

When

the no.

1

piston

is at

1

1

TDC on the compression

and no. 3 exhaust valves and no. 2 intake valves can be checked/adjusted

stroke, the valve clearance for the no.

and the no.

2

1

(DOHC engines)

24.1 7b

Measure the clearance for each valve with a feeler gauge - if the clearance is correct, you should feel a slight drag on the gauge as you pull it out

of the specified thickness

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

53

®[oOo]p(^ooJ@C 4 4 24.18

When the

3 3 no. 4 piston is at

TDC on the compression

and no. 4 exhaust valves and the no. 3 and no. 4 intake valves can be checked/adjusted

stroke, the valve clearance for the no. 2

(DOHC

24.20a

Compress the valve spring

with tool J371 41 -1

,

engines)

J 37141-2A

J 37141-2A

^r 24.20b

.

.

.

hold the spring down with J37141-2A and remove J371 41-1

24.20c

Lift

the shim with a small screwdriver and pull

it

out with

a magnet

groove in the pulley is aligned with the "0" on the stationary pointer (see Chapter 2, Part A). To verify the no. 1 piston is on the compression stroke, make sure the valve lifters for the no. 1 cylinder are loose and the valve the no. 4 cylinder are tight. they aren't, turn the crankshaft one more complete revolution. Measure the clearances of the indicated valves with a feeler gauge of 1 the specified thickness (see illustrations). Record the measurements which are out of specification. They will be used later to determine the relifters for

If

quired replacement shims.

18 Turn the crankshaft pulley one more complete revolution (360-degrees) and align the timing marks as described in Step 1 6 above. The no. 4 piston is now at TDC. Measure the clearances for the remaining valves

(see illustration). 19 After all the valve clearances have been measured, turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the camshaft lobe above the first valve which you intend to adjust is pointing up, away from the shim. 20 Position the notch in the valve lifter toward the spark plug. Then compress the valve spring with the special tools (see illustrations).

24.21

Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer

Remove

the adjusting shim with a small screwdriver and magnet (see illustration) 21 Measure the thickness of the shim with a micrometer (see illustration).

To calculate the correct thickness

of

a replacement shim that

will

Chapter

54

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

mm

(in.)

SHIM

SHIM NO.

THICKNESS

NO.

THICKNESS

02

2.500 (0.0984)

20

2.950 (0.1161)

04

2.550 (0.1004)

22

3.000 (0.1181)

06

2600

(0.1024)

24

3.050 (C.1201)

08

2.650 (0.1043)

26

3.100 (0.1220)

10

2 700 (0.1063)

28

3.150 (0.1240)

12

2.750 (0.1083)

30

3.200 (0.1260)

14

2800

(0.1102)

32

3.250 (0.1280)

16

2.850 (0.1122)

34

3.300 (0.1299)

18

2.900 (0.1142)

Available shim

24.22

o 1

1

25.1

numbers and thicknesses

Tools required for changing spark plugs

Spark plug socket -

1

This

will

have special padding inside

spark plug's porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket to protect the

2

place the valve clearance within the specified

limits,

use the following

3 4

for-

Extension - Depending on model and accessories, you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or

mula: Intake side:

N=T+

(A-0.008 in) = T + (A -0.010 in)

Exhaust side: N T = thickness of the old shim A = valve clearance measured N = the thickness of the new shim

engine

22 Select a shim with a thickness as close as possible to the valve clearance calculated (see illustration). Shims, which are available in 1 7 sizes in increments of 0.0020-inch (0.050 mm), range in size from 0.984-inch (2.500 mm) to 0.1 299-inch (3.300 mm). Note: Through careful analysis of the shim sizes needed to bring all the out of specification valve clearances within specification, it's often possible to simply move a shim to another valve lifter requiring a shim of that particular size, thereby reducing the number of new shims that must be purchased. 23 With the special valve lifter tools still in position, install the new adjusting shim. Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge to make sure your calculations are correct.

24 25

Repeat

this

more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your

5

procedure until all the valve clearances are correct. remaining components is the reverse of removal.

Installation of the

3

is

included.

Inspect each of the

cracks

in

new

plugs for defects.

If

there are any signs of

the porcelain insulator of a plug, don't use

it.

Check the electrode gaps of the new plugs. Check the gap by inserting the wire gauge of the proper thickness between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration). The gap between the electrodes should be identical to that specified on the VECI label. If the gap is incorrect, use the notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body to bend the curved side 4

electrode slightly (see illustration).

5 If the side electrode is not exactly over the center electrode, use the notched adjuster to align them. Caution: If the gap of a new plug must be adjusted, bend only the base of the ground electrode, do not touch the center

tip.

Removal 25

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug wires, work on one spark plug at a time. Remove the wire and boot from one spark plug. Grasp the boot - not the cable - as shown, give it a half twisting motion and pull it 6

Spark plug replacement

Refer

to illustrations 25.

1,

25.4a, 25.4b, 25.6

off

and 25. 10

(see illustration).

If compressed air is available, blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area before proceeding (a bicycle tire pump will also

7

Spark plug replacement requires a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet wrench. This socket is lined with a rubber grommet to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug and to hold the plug while you insert into the spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark plug gap and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 2 When replacing the plugs, purchase the new plugs in advance, adjust them to the proper gap and then replace each plug one at a time. Note: When buying new spark plugs, it's essential that you obtain the correct plugs for your specific vehicle. This information can be found in this Chapter's specifications, on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label located on the underside of the hood or in the owner's manual. If these sources specify different plugs, purchase the spark plug type specified on the VECI label because that information is provided specifically for your engine. 1

it

work).

8 9

Remove the spark plug. Compare each old spark plug with those shown in the accompanying

color photos to determine the overall running condition of the engine.

Installation 10 It's often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of 3/16-inch ID rubber hose over the end of the spark plug (see illustration). The flexible

hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage. Tighten the plug securely.

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

f

1

Spark plug manufacturers recommend using a wire-type if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required

25.4a

55

25.4b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode

gauge when checking the gap -

TWIST AND PULL

25.6

When removing

25.10 A length of 3/16-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs

the spark plug wires, grasp the boot and use a twisting/pulling motion

Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting moon the boot until is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug. 1 Follow the above procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires. 1

tion

it

3

The spark plug wires should be inspected one

mixing up the order, which

is

at

a time

to prevent

essential for proper engine operation.

Each

should be numbered to help identify its location. If the illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number

original plug wire

number is

and wrapped around the plug

wire.

Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can be used for this purpose or you can grasp the rubber boot, twist the boot half a turn and pull the boot free. Do not pull on the wire itself. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty 5

4

26

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check

and replacement

powder. Push the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. 6

Refer to 1

illustrations 26.

1

1a,

26.11b and 26. 12

The spark plug wires should be checked whenever new spark plugs

are installed.

Begin this procedure by making a visual check of the spark plug wires is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each plug wire. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the wire, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. If arcing is noticed, make a note to obtain new wires, then allow the engine to cool and check the distributor cap and rotor. 2

while the engine

tightly

onto the end of the plug.

to carefully

If it

doesn't,

It

should fit

remove the wire and use pliers

crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot

until

the

fit

is

snug.

Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the wire to remove built-up and grease. Once the wire is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the wire sharply, because the conductor within the 7

dirt

wire might break.

8

Disconnectthe wire from the distributor. Again, pull only on the rubber Check for corrosion and a tight fit. Press the wire back into the distrib-

boot. utor.

Chapter

56

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

CRACK

CARBON TRACK

26.11a

Remove the screws

(arrows) and

lift

the distributor cap off

(4A-LC engine shown, others similar)

CHARRED OR ERODED TERMINALS

INSUFFICIENT SPRING TENSION

CARBON TRACK

CRACKS 26.11b Shown here are some of the common defects to look for when inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt about its condition, install a new one)

ROTOR TIP

CORRODED

26.1 2

The

should be checked for wear and (if in doubt about its condition, install a new one)

ignition rotor

corrosion as indicated here

13 It is common practice to install a new cap and rotor whenever new spark plug wires are installed, but if you wish to continue using the old cap, clean the terminals first. 1 When installing a new cap, remove the wires from the old cap one at a time and attach them to the

simultaneously remove

all

new cap

in

the exact

same

the wires from the old cap or

location firing

- do

not

order mix-

ups may occur. 9

Inspect the remaining spark plug wires, making sure that each one

securely fastened at the distributor and spark plug

is

when the check is com-

plete. 1 If new spark plug wires are required, purchase a set for your specific engine model. Pre-cut wire sets with the boots already installed are avail-

able.

Remove and

replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ups

in

27

Carburetor choke check

the

Refer

firing order. 1 Detach the distributor cap by removing the screws (see illustration). Look inside for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or loose contacts it

(see illustration). 12 Pull the rotor off the distributor shaft and examine it for cracks and car-

bon tracks (see illustration). Replace the cap and defects are noted.

rotor

if

any damage or

to illustration

27.3

Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. :

1 The choke operates only when the engine is cold, so this check should be performed before the engine has been started for the day. 2 Take off the top plate of the air cleaner assembly. It's held in place by a

wing nut at the top and clips on the

side.

If

any vacuum hoses must be

dis-

CARBON DEPOSITS

NORMAL

Symptoms: Dry

sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard

and

starting

wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

for

cleaner, high float

air

level, sticky

to grayishtan color and slight electrode

hesitation.

Recommendation: Check a clogged

Symptoms: Brown

choke and worn

nition points.

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ig-

Use a spark plug

with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

ASH DEPOSITS OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: caused by poor

Symptoms:

oil

Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel addi-

coating

Oily

control. Oil

leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the is

the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation:

Correct

Blistered, white

new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

in-

WORN

eroded electrode and of deposits. Results in

shortened plug

Symptoms: Rounded

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing,

poor

lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

fuel

economy.

Recommendation: with new plugs of

PREIGNITION

DETONATION

electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion

Symptoms:

chamber. Can lead damage.

lator tip.

also result

over-advanced

ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

a fractured insulead to piston

plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS

HIGH SPEED GLAZING

Symptoms:

Symptoms:

Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion

of

After long periods misfiring, deposits can

loosen when normal combustemperature is restored by

tion

chamber temperatures have

an overdue tune-up. At high

risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high

speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.

speeds. Install

in

Can

damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new

for

the correct plug heat range,

Recommendation:

same

Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can

engine

Recommendation: Check

Replace the

heat range.

Symptoms: Melted

to

elec-

trodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and

life.

Recommendation: Check

exces-

stall

TOO HOT Symptoms:

If

sive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, in-

the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

absence

may

mask

hesition.

Recommendation:

sulator,

Excessive amounts

tives.

combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or

new

plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

GAP BRIDGING de-

Symptoms: May be caused by

posits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the elec-

a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

Symptoms: Combustion

trode gap.

The plug ceases to dead cyl-

resulting in a inder.

fire,

!1

damage.

Remove

Recommendation: Locate the

Recommendation:

and remove the deposits from between the elec-

the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct

faulty plug

trodes.

«*^j^p

reach plug.

Chapter

58

27.3

The choke

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

plate is located in the carburetor throat

connected, make sure you tag the hoses for reinstallation in their original positions. Place the top plate and wing nut aside, out of the way of moving

engine components. 3 Look at the center of the air cleaner housing. You will notice a flat plate at the carburetor opening (see illustration). 4 Press the accelerator pedal to the floor. The plate should close completely. Start

the engine while you watch the plate at the carburetor. Don't

position your face near the carburetor, as the engine could backfire, causing serious burns.

When

the engine starts, the choke plate should open

slightly.

more 6

idle

air to

enter through the top of the carburetor.

After a

few minutes, the choke plate should be

cal position. Blip the throttle to

make

sure the fast

fully

idle

ing.

is located in the snorkel (arrow)

should

air

and look through the snorkel

move up to block off the air cleaner snorkel.

cannot enter through the end

cleaner housing

at the valve,

which

With the valve closed,

of the snorkel, but instead enters the air

cleaner through the flexible duct attached to the exhaust manifold and the

heat stove passage.

As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the valve should move down to allow air to be drawn through the snorkel end. Depending on outside temperature, this may take 10-to-15 minutes. To speed up this 6

check you can reconnect the snorkel air duct, drive the vehicle, then check the valve is completely open. to see

open

7

If

the thermostatically controlled air cleaner

see Chapter 6

for

more

isn't

operating properly,

information.

to the verti-

cam disengages.

engine speed corresponds with the plate openidle speed. As the plate opens and the throttle is moved to disengage the fast idle cam, the engine speed will decrease. Refer to Chapter 4 for specific information on adjusting and servicing 8 7

control valve

Start the engine

5

air

air

if

speed. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the plate should slowly open, allowing Allow the engine to continue running at an

5

The

28.3

You'll notice that the

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and

29

refilling)

With the plate nearly closed, the engine should run at a fast

the choke components.

Warning: Antifreeze is a corrosive and poisonous solution, so be careful not to spill any of the coolant mixture on the vehicle 's paint or your skin. If happens, rinse immediately with plenty of clean water. Consult local procedures for antifreeze before draining the cooling system. In many areas, reclamation centers have this

authorities regarding proper disposal

been established to collect used oil and coolant mixtures. The electric cooling fan can activate at any time, even when the ignition is in the Off position.

28

Thermostatically controlled air cleaner check (carburetor-equipped models only)

in

system should be drained, flushed and reand prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. When the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator cap should be checked and replaced if necessary. 1

Periodically, the cooling

filled to

Refer

to illustration

28.3

Warn ing The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. :

1

Carburetor-equipped engines have a thermostatically controlled air air from different locations, depending on engine

cleaner which draws

Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working

the vicinity of the fan.

replenish the antifreeze mixture

Draining 29.4 and 29.5

temperature.

Refer

2

Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several hours to allow the engine to cool down before beginning this procedure. Once the engine is completely cool, remove the radiator cap. 3 4 Remove the splash panel located beneath the radiator (if equipped). Then move a large container under the radiator drain to catch the coolant. Attach a 3/8-inch inner diameter hose to the drain fitting to direct the cool-

This

a visual check, requiring use of a small mirror. When the engine is cold, locate the air control valve inside the air 3 cleaner assembly. It's inside the snorkel of the air cleaner housing (see is

illustration).

4 nect

There it

is

a

flexible air duct

at the snorkel.

snorkel and see the

This

air

will

attached to the end of the snorkel, discon-

enable you

to look

control valve inside.

through the end of the

2

to illustrations

Chapter

The

29.4

radiator drain (arrow)

ant into the container

then open the drain

mounted

is

in

1

the bottom tank

(some models are already equipped

fitting

with a hose),

move the container

accelerator pedal pressure

2

allow the coolant

hicle

the block to drain.

check the condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps (refer to Section 14 necessary). 7 Replace any damaged clamps or hoses (refer to Chapter 3 for detailed replacement procedures). While the coolant

6

is

draining,

if

is critical

to the

to the oil filter

applied, as when stopped at a traffic light. performance of the engine itself, as well as

is

many engine subsystems.

under the engine block drain plug (see illustration). Loosen the plug and in

59

The block drain plug (arrow) is located next (filter removed for clarity)

29.5

This speed

(see illustration).

After the coolant stops flowing out of the radiator,

5

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Set the parking brake firmly and block the wheels to prevent the ve-

from

rolling.

Put the transaxle

in

Neutral.

Connect a hand held tachometer. 4 Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature. Check, and adjust necessary, the ignition timing (see Section 35). 5 Allow the engine to idle for two minutes. 6 7 Check the engine idle speed on the tachometer and compare to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment. 8 If the idle speed is too low or too high, turn the idle speed adjusting screw (see illustrations) until the specified idle speed is obtained. 3

it

if

it

Flushing Once the system is completely drained, flush the radiator with fresh water from a garden hose until water runs clear at the drain. The flushing action of the water will remove sediments from the radiator but will not remove rust and scale from the engine and cooling tube surfaces. 8

These deposits can be removed by the chemical

9

Follow the procedure outlined diator

is

severely corroded,

in

action of a cleaner.

the manufacturer's instructions.

damaged

or leaking,

it

If

the ra-

should be removed

(see Chapter 3) and taken to a radiator repair shop. 1 Remove the overflow hose from the coolant recovery reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush

it

with clean water, then reconnect the hose.

Refilling Close and tighten the radiator drain.

1

Install

and tighten the block drain

plug.

12 1

the

in the maximum heat position. new coolant (a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze) to radiator until it's full. Add coolant to the reservoir up to the lower mark.

Place the heater temperature control

Slowly add

1

Leave the

until

the thermostat opens (coolant

radiator

cap off and run the engine will

in

a well-ventilated area

begin flowing through the radiator

and the upper radiator hose will become hot). 15 Turn the engine off and let cool. Add more coolant mixture to bring the level back up to the lip on the radiator filler neck. 1 Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel air, then add more coolant mixture necessary. Replace the radiator cap. 1 Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature and check for leaks. it

if

30.8a

On

screw 30

Idle

is

carburetor-equipped models, the idle speed adjusting located on the rear (firewall) side of the carburetor

speed check and adjustment 1

Refer 1

to illustrations

Engine

idle

2

30.8a and 30.8b

speed

is

the speed at which the engine operates

when no

Fast Idle

idle adjusting

screw

speed adjusting screw

Chapter

60

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance 3

Other tools necessary for this job include jackstands to support the in a raised position, a drain pan capable of holding at least two gal-

vehicle

newspapers and clean rags. The fluid should be drained immediately after the vehicle has been driven. Hot fluid is more effective than cold fluid at removing built up sediment. Warning Fluid temperature can exceed 350 degrees in a hot transaxle. Wear protective gloves. and After the vehicle has been driven to warm up the fluid, raise 5 lons,

4

:

it

on jackstands for access to the transaxle drain plug. Remove any splash pans that are in the way. 6 Move the necessary equipment under the vehicle, being careful not to touch any of the hot exhaust components. 7 Place the drain pan under the drain plugs in the transaxle housing and pan. Remove the drain plugs one at a time (see illustrations). Be sure the drain pan is in position, as fluid will come out with some force. Once the place

it

fluid is

drained, reinstall the drain plugs securely.

Remove

the transaxle pan bolts (see pan loose with a screwdriver and remove

8

30.8b

On

fuel-injected models, the idle

speed adjusting screw

illustration), carefully pry the it.

is

located on the throttle body Idle

1

31

Automatic transaxle

Refer

speed adjusting screw

fluid

and

filter

change

to illustrations 31.7a, 31.7b, 31.8, 31.9,

31.11

and 31.13

At the specified time intervals, the automatic transaxle

1

fluid

should be

drained and replaced.

31 .7a

Before beginning work, purchase the specified transmission

2 (see

Recommended

lubricants

and

The automatic transaxle drain plug

fluid

is

on the bottom

pan (arrow)

fluids at the front of this Chapter).

On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, the drain plug for the differential lubricant is located in the bottom of the housing

31 .7b

near the pan (arrow)

31 .8

Remove the transaxle pan

bolts (arrows)

of the

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

61

v

w

'.

31 .9

Remove the

yt

v filter

retaining bolts (arrows)

Be sure

31.11

to clean

and

reinstall the

magnets

in their

original locations

ADJUSTING SCREW

Disconnect the vacuum hose from diaphragm

33.4

15

Start the engine

through Low, then 1

31

9

.1 3 On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, the filler plug for the differential lubricant is located on the radiator side of the housing (arrow)

Remove the

retaining bolts

axle (see illustration). residual 1

careful

when

filter

lowering the

from the trans-

filter

as

it

contains

Place the

new filter in position and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to in this

Chapter's specifications.

compressed

air.

Be sure

to

Wash the pan in clean solvent and dry

clean and

reinstall the

bolts. 1

a new

magnets (see

gasket, place the fluid pan in position and Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

it

Manual transaxle lubricant change

Allow the

fluid

time to drain into the pan.

Add

fluid

up

to the

HOT

Remove the drain

plug from the bottom of the transaxle and allow

all

lubricant to drain.

2

Reinstall the drain plug. Tighten

3

Add new lubricant until begins to run out of the filler hole (see Sec23). See Recommended lubricants and fluids for the specified lubri-

tion

it

to the specified torque.

it

with

install

the

any splash pans and lower the vehicle. 1 With the engine off, add new fluid to the transaxle through the dipstick tube (see Recommended lubricants and fluids for the recommended fluid type and capacity). Use a funnel to prevent spills. It is best to add a little fluid at a time, continually checking the level with the dipstick (see Section 7).

fluid level.

dipstick.

illustra-

Add the specified amount and type of fluid to the differential (see illus-

tration). Reinstall

check the

32

33

Install

positions from Park

all

tion)

12

idling,

all

cant type.

Carefully clean the gasket surfaces of the fluid pan, removing

traces of old gasket material.

With the engine

the selector into

Park and apply the parking brake.

on the

fluid.

the torque listed 11

Be

and detach the

shift

level

1

filter

and

shift into

A

Throttle positioner adjustment check (carburetor-equipped models only)

Refer

to illustrations

33.4 and 33.

1

Run

2

Remove the air cleaner assembly and plug the vacuum hoses leading

the engine

until

normal operating temperature

is

reached.

to the engine.

3

Connect a tachometer to the engine according to the manufacturer's

directions.

4

Disconnect the vacuum hose from diaphragm

A

(see illustration).

Chapter

62

33.7

.

.

.

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

and diaphragm B - the engine speed should be as specified in the text

34.2 The evaporative emissions (charcoal) canister is located below the brake master cylinder - check the hoses for cracks and

other

&tJLn

\f

35.1 The PCV valve fits into a rubber grommet in the camshaft cover (SOHC

The idle speed should now be 800 rpm (manual transaxle) or 900 rpm

(automatic transaxle). Turn the adjusting screw, correct speed. Note:

6 7

Make adjustments when

If the rubber gasket on the fuel cap is damaged or deteriorated, remove it with a small screwdriver and install a new one

The oxygen sensor (viewed from below) is mounted on the exhaust manifold with two bolts (arrows)

37.2

36.2

engine shown)

5

damage

if

necessary to obtain the

the cooling fan

Reconnect the vacuum hose to diaphragm A. Disconnect the vacuum hose from diaphragm B (see

is off.

fuel

vapors from the gas tank and

canister and route

them to the

fuel

system, store them

The most common symptom

system

is

a strong

fuel

odor

in

of

a

fault in the

a charcoal

evaporative emissions

the engine compartment.

and plug the hose. The idle speed should now be: 1 985 models- 1 300 rpm plus or minus 8 200 rpm (manual transaxle) or 1 400 rpm plus or minus 200 rpm (automatic transaxle). 1 986 and later models - 1 400 rpm plus or minus 200 rpm (manual transaxle) or 1 500 rpm plus or minus 200 rpm (automatic transaxle).

detected, inspect the charcoal canister, located

Turn the adjusting screw,

ter

9

4

if necessary to obtain the correct speed. Reconnect the vacuum hose and check that the engine returns to idle speed in two to six seconds. 1 Install the air cleaner assembly and ensure that all hoses are properly

in

intake manifold during normal engine oper-

ation.

2 illustration)

filler

in

If

a fuel odor

is

the engine compart-

ment below the master cylinder (see illustration). Check the canister and all hoses for damage and deterioration. 3 At the specified intervals, the charcoal canister must be replaced with a new one. Disconnect the hoses, release the spring clip and lift the canis-

in

from the engine compartment. Installation

The evaporative emissions control system Chapter

is is

the reverse of removal.

explained

in

more detail

6.

reconnected.

35 34

Evaporative emissions control system check and canister replacement

Refer 1

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement

to illustration

The

Refer

34.2

function of the evaporative emissions control system

is

to

draw

to illustration 35.

1

The PCV valve

2

Disconnect the hose,

nect the hose.

is

located pull

in

the camshaft cover (see illustration).

the

PCV valve from the cover,

then recon-

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

normal operating temperature, place your there's no vacuum at the valve, check for a plugged hose or valve. Replace any plugged or deteriorated hoses. 4 Turn off the engine. Remove the PCV valve from the hose. Blow through the valve from the camshaft cover end. If air will not pass through the valve in this direction, replace it with a new one. When purchasing a replacement PCV valve, make sure it's for your 5 particular vehicle and engine size. Compare the old valve with the new one 3

With the engine

idling at

finger over the valve opening.

to

make

If

follow the wire back to the connector. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire at the connector. 2 Unscrew the oxygen sensor bolts (see illustration) and remove the

oxygen sensor,

sensor. Install the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold. Tighten the sensor bolts securely. 4 Plug in the electrical connector.

3

sure they're the same.

37

36

1

36.2

Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time. Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan. :

1

The oxygen sensor is located

in

the exhaust manifold. Starting at the

to illustration

Obtain a

new

37.2

gasket.

Remove the tank cap and carefully pry the old gasket out of the recess (see illustration). Avoid damaging the sealing surface inside the cap. Work the new gasket into the cap recess. 3 4 Install the cap, then remove it and look for an impression all the way around the gasket - this indicates the gasket is sealing completely. 2

to illustration

Fuel tank cap gasket replacement

Refer

Oxygen sensor replacement

Refer

63

Chapter 2 Part

A Engines

Contents Camshaft cover(s) - removal and installation Camshaft oil seal(s) - replacement Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and installation (4A-LC engine only) Camshafts and valve lifters - removal, inspection and installation (DOHC engines only) Crankshaft front Crankshaft rear

oil oil

seal seal

- replacement - replacement

10 11

8 17

Cylinder compression check

See Chapter 2B

- removal and installation Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement Engine mount - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation

13 See Chapter 1 18 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2B See Chapter 2B

Cylinder head

Exhaust manifold - removal and installation 6 16 Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation 1 General information Intake manifold - removal and installation 5 14 Oil pan - removal and installation 15 Oil pump - removal and installation Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle 2 Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1 7 Timing belt and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating 3 Valves - servicing See Chapter 2B Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement 12 (4A-LC engine only) Water pump - removal and installation See Chapter 3

4 9

.

Specifications

General Engine type

4A-LC 4A-GE, 4A-FE Cylinder numbers

SOHC, two valves per cylinder DOHC, four valves per cylinder (drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

1-2-3-4 1

-3-4-2

4A-LC engine

1

.51

2

in

(38.4

4A-GE engine

1

.71

3

in

(43.5

4A-FE engine

1

.51

2

in

(38.4

Firing order

Timing

belt

Idler pulley spring free length

mm) mm) mm)

.

Chapter 2 Part Timing belt deflection (with a pressure of 4.4 4A-LC engine 4A-GE engine

A

lbs)

4A-FE engine

1/4 to 9/32

3/16

in (4

in (6 to

mm)

7

mm)

13/64 to 1/4

Camshaft and valve

65

Engines

6

in (5 to

mm)

train

Camshaft endplay 4A-LC engine (0.08 to 0.18

mm)

(0.08 to 0.19

mm)

Standard

0031

to

0.0071

Service

0098

in

(0.25

0031 0118

to

0.0075

in

(0.30

0043

in (0.11

1

1015

to

1.1022

in

(27.979 to 27.995

1

061

to

1

.061 6

in

(26.949 to 26.965

9822 9035

in

(24.95

in

(22.95

0015 0039

to

0.0029

in

(0.10

0014 0039 0014

to

0.0028

in

(0.10

to

0.0028

1

5409

in

(39.14

Standard

1

3998

to

1

Service

1

3841

in

(35.155

limit

in

mm)

4A-GE engine Standard Service

limit

4A-FE engine (service limit) Camshaft journal diameter 4A-LC engine

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine (minimum) No. All

1

exhaust journal

other journals

Camshaft bearing 4A-LC engine

oil

mm) mm)

mm) mm)

clearance

Standard Service

in

mm) mm)

limit

in

(0.037 to 0.073

mm)

(0.035 to 0.072

mm)

(0.035 to 0.072

mm)

mm)

4A-GE engine Standard Service

limit

4A-FE engine (standard) Camshaft lobe height

4A-LC engine

(service

limit)

in

mm) in

mm)

4A-GE engine limit

4A-FE engine

(service

1

Exhaust camshaft Camshaft gear spring free length (4A-FE engine only) Camshaft gear backlash (4A-FE engine only) Valve lifters (DOHC engines only) Lifter diameter (service limit) Lifter bore diameter (service limit) (oil)

1

1 1

limit

Rocker arm-to-shaft oil clearance (service (4A-LC engine only)

mm)

370 in (38.41 mm) 359 in (34.51 mm) 673 to 0.689 in (17.1 to 17.5 mm) 0008 to 0.0079 in (0.020 to 0.200 mm) 1014 1 024

to

1.1018

in

(27.975 to 27.985

to

1

032

in

(28.000 to 28.021

0005 0039

to 0.001

.

1

.0024

Ft-ibs

Camshaft bearing cap 4A-LC engine

9

bolts

4A-GE engine

9

4A-FE engine

9.6

Camshaft cover nuts/bolts 4A-LC engine

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine Camshaft idler pulley bolts Camshaft sprocket bolt 4A-LC engine

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine Crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolt 4A-LC engine

8

in (0.01

in

(0.10

mm)

in

(0.06

mm)

limit)

Torque specifications

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine

(35.555 to 35.565

mm)

mm) mm)

clearance

Standard Service

in

limit)

Intake camshaft

Lifter-to-bore

.4002

18

15 15

27 34 34 43

87 101

87

5

to

0.046

mm)

Chapter 2 Part

66

Torque specifications (continued)

A

Engines

Ft-ibs

Cylinder head bolts

43 44

4A-LC engine 4A-FE engine

4A-GE engine 22

Step one Step two Step three Exhaust manifold nuts/bolts

Rotate an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn) Rotate an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn)

18

Flywheel/driveplate bolts

58 58

4A-LC engine

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine Manual transaxle

58 47

Automatic transaxle Intake manifold nuts/bolts

4A-LC engine

18

4A-GE engine

20

4A-FE engine

14

Oil

pan-to-block bolts

4A-GE engine

4 4

4A-FE engine

7.5

4A-LC engine

pump-to-block bolts 4A-LC engine

Oil

18 16 16

4A-GE engine 4A-FE engine Oil

7 18

pick-up (strainer) nuts/bolts

Rocker arm shaft pedestal Rear oil seal retainer bolts

bolts

(4A-LC engine only)

7

Clean the engine compartment and the exterior

Refer

to illustrations 1.5a

This Part of Chapter 2

and

1.5b

devoted to in-vehicle repair procedures for the engine. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part B of this is

work. If

gine

is

based on the assumption the enthe engine has been removed from the

following repair procedures are installed in the vehicle.

If

and mounted on a stand, many Chapter 2 will not apply.

vehicle of

of the steps outlined in this Part

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part B of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. Three different four-cylinder engines were installed in the Chevy Nova/ Geo Prizm during the years covered by this manual. The single overhead camshaft (SOHC), two-valve-per-cylinder engine used in the Nova is designated the 4A-LC.

Two different dual overhead camshaft (DOHC), four valve per cylinder engines are covered by this manual. One version has dual camshaft timing belt sprockets - this engine is designated 4A-GE (VIN code 5) (see illustration). The other engine has a single camshaft timing belt sprocket - this engine is designated 4A-FE (VIN code 6) (see illustration). Note: DOHC is used in the text to indicate when a procedure applies to both the

4A-GE and 4A-FE engines.

Repair operations possible with the engine

in

vacuum, exhaust,

repair with the engine

need

for

in

place.

mended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the

components

involved.

Top Dead Center (TDC)

Refer the engine from the vehicle.

or coolant leaks develop, indicating a

Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the vehicle. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice isn't recom-

the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing

oil

gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place. Exterior engine components, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan, the oil pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components can be removed for

3 2

engine with

and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also

Chapter.

The

of the

some type of degreaser before any work isdone.lt will make the job easier

General information

1

to illustrations

3.8

and 3.

for

number one

piston - locating

1

Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption the distributor is

correctly installed.

If

you're trying to locate

TDC to install the distributor

Chapter 2 Part

A

67

Engines

Gasket

Cylinder Head Center Cover

Camshaft Bearing Adjusting Shim

Intake Manifold

Valve Lifter Keepers

— Valve — Valve

'^ ^L^

Spring Retainer

~~Valve Spring

Q^-

Snap Ring

^\ Valve Guide Bushing Valve Stem Oil Steel

^ Valve Spring Seat

Gasket

Intake Manifold Stay

\\

^ Cylinder Head Rear Cover Cylinder Head

Water Outlet Cylinder Head

Gasket

No. 3 Timing Belt Cover Engine Mounting Bracket

LH Manifold Stay

Exhaust Manifold

1

.5a

4A-GE upper engine components - exploded view

Chapter 2 Part A

68

1

11

Camshaft snap-ring Wave washer Camshaft sub-gear Camshaft gear spring Camshaft cover Spark plug tube gasket Camshaft cover gasket Camshaft bearing cap Camshaft (intake) Camshaft (exhaust) Adjusting shim

12

Valve

1

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

lifter

.5b

Engines

4A-FE upper engine components - exploded view 13

Valve keepers

14

Valve spring retainer

15

Valve spring

16

17

Valve spring seat Valve stem oil seal

18

Valve guide

25 26 27

Exhaust manifold gasket Exhaust manifold Exhaust manifold lower heat shield Center timing belt cover Upper timing belt cover Camshaft sprocket

19

Valve

28 29 30

20

Distributor

31

Fuel

21

Coolant inlet housing Coolant outlet housing Head gasket Exhaust manifold upper heat shield

32 33 34

Cold-start injector

22 23 24

rail

Intake manifold gasket Intake manifold

Chapter 2 Part

The notch

3.8

in the crankshaft pulley must be aligned with the zero on the timing cover (arrows)

correctly, piston position must be

the

69

Engines

On 4A-GE

engines, to verify the number one piston is at the compression stroke, remove the oil filler cap and look for a small dimple in the camshaft - the dimple should be aligned with the straight edge at the base of the filler neck 3.11

TDC on

determined by feeling for compression at

number one spark plug hole, then aligning the ignition timing marks as

described in step

A

8.

Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as travels up-and-down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression 1

the inside terminals

- use the

position of the inside terminals for rotor

alignment.

Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph 3 above) until the notch is aligned with the on the timing plate (located front of the engine) (see illustration). 8

in

crankshaft pulley

at the

the

it

stroke.

2

Positioning the piston(s) at

TDC

is

an essential part

of

many

proce-

dures such as camshaft and timing belt/sprocket removal and distributor removal. Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transaxle in 3 Neutral and apply the parking brake or block the rear wheels. Also, disable the ignition system by detaching the coil wire from the center terminal of the distributor

move 4 ing

cap and grounding

it

the spark plugs (see Chapter

In

order to bring any piston to

one

on the block with a jumper

TDC, the crankshaft must be turned

methods outlined below. When looking

of the

of the engine,

Re-

wire.

1 ).

normal crankshaft rotation

is

us-

end

at the drivebelt

Look at the distributor rotor- should be pointing directly at the mark you made on the distributor body. 1 If the rotor is 1 80-degrees off, the number one piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. 11 If the number one piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. The rotor should now be pointing at the mark on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap and the ignition timing marks are aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Note: If it's impossible to align the ignition timing marks when the rotor is pointing at the mark on the distributor body, the distributor 9

may be installed wrong,

The

b)

A remote

preferred

method

is

to turn the

possible

clockwise.

crankshaft with a socket and

ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft. starter switch,

which may save some time, can also be

used. Follow the instructions included with the switch. piston

is

close to

TDC, use a socket and

Once

ratchet as described

in

c)

If

an assistant

is

to verify

After the

TDC by removing

number one

the

the cylinder numbers.

you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter switch. Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle, away from the ignition switch, then use a socket and ratchet as described in Paragraph a) to complete the procedure.

oil filler

cap (see

been positioned

at

it

is

illustration).

TDC on the com-

of the

spark plug wire terminal locations on the distributor body just like you did number one terminal, then number the marks to correspond with

for the

available to turn the ignition switch to the Start po-

piston has

TDC for any

the

on the

On 4A-GE engines,

remaining pistons can be located by turning the crankshaft and following the firing order. Mark the remaining pression stroke,

the

previous paragraph.

the timing belt may have jumped the teeth

sprockets or may have been installed incorrectly.

1

a)

it

As you

turn the crankshaft, the rotor

will

also turn.

When it's pointing directly at one of the marks on the distributor, the piston for that particular cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.

sition in short bursts,

5

Detach the cap from the

distributor

and set

it

aside (see Chapter

1

,

4

Camshaft cover(s) - removal and

Refer

necessary).

Note the position of the terminal for the number one spark plug wire on thedistributorcap. If the terminal isn't marked, follow the plug wire from the number one cylinder spark plug to the cap. 7 Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark on the distributor body directly under the location of the terminal when the cap is installed. Note: The location of the wires on the outside of the cap doesn correspond with 6

't

installation

if

1

2 3

to illustrations 4.3, 4.7, 4.8a, 4.8b, 4. 10a, 4. 10b,

4.11a

and 4.11b

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. On 4A-LC engines, remove the air cleaner assembly. Detach the PCV valve and breather hose from the camshaft cover

(see illustration). 4 On a DOHC engines, remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs.

Chapter 2 Part

70

4A-LC camshaft cover and

4.3

1

2

PC V valve

related

3

components

A

Engines

4.7

On 4A-GE

engines, remove the center cover (arrow)

first

Mounting nuts

Wire harness clips

%*— -Q]

4.8a

1

2

4A-LC camshaft cover and related components - exploded view

Camshaft cover Gasket

4.10a

3

4.8b

PCV valve

Drive out the old spark plug tube seals (4A-FE engine only)

4A-FE camshaft cover and

1

2

4.10b

Install

Camshaft cover Mounting nut

related

3

components

Seal

the seals with a special service tool or a seal driver

(4A-FE engine only)

Chapter 2 Part

4.11a

On 4A-GE

5

Label, detach

6

On 4A-LC

throttle

7

engines, apply sealant to the seal corners as shown

and move aside any wiring harness

that

is in

4.11

the way.

engines, remove the upper timing belt cover, unclip the

cable from the cover and

tie

it

aside.

Remove

stuck to the head,

Position a

new gasket and

seals

(if

used) on the cylinder head, then

the camshaft cover, sealing washers and nuts.

Tighten the nuts/bolts to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's specifica-

tions in three equal steps. 1

head (see

illustrations).

If

the cover

Reinstall the remaining parts, run the engine

and check

for oil leaks.

is

bump the end with a block of wood and a hammer to jar

it

a flexible putty knife between the head and cover to break the seal. Caution: Don't pry at the cover-to-head joint or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur, leading to oil leaks after the cover is reinstalled. 9 The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cover must be clean when the cover is installed. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's residue or oil on the mating surfaces when the cover is installed, oil leaks may develop. 1 On 4A-FE engines, drive the old spark plug tube seals out and install new ones (see illustrations). 11 If you're working on a DOHC engine, apply a thin, uniform layer of sealant (GM 1052751 or equivalent) to the gasket mating surfaces and If

engines, coat the shaded area of the half-circle plug with sealant before installation

the mounting nuts/bolts and sealing washers, then detach

the cover(s) and gasket from the

loose.

1

71

On 4A-FE

b

install 1

On 4A-GE engines, remove the throttle cable (see Chapter 4) and the

center cover and gasket (see illustration).

8

A Engines

5

Intake manifold

- removal and

installation

that doesn't work, try to slip

seal joints (see illustrations).

Remove

the heat shield (4A-LC engine shown, others similar)

7d and 5.8 and exhaust manifolds share a comyou have to remove the exhaust manifold (see

Refer

to illustrations 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5. 7a, 5. 7b, 5. 7c, 5.

Note:

On 4A-LC engines,

mon

gasket. Therefore,

the intake

Section 6) to change the gasket. 1

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ).

3

Remove the air cleaner,

fuel

rail (if

4

carburetor or throttle body, fuel injectors and

equipped) (see Chapter 4). Remove lift the heat shield (if equipped) from the manifold (see

illus-

tration).

5

Label and detach

switches

5.5

still

all

connected

wire harnesses, control cables, tubes, hoses and to the intake manifold

(see illustration).

detach the vacuum switch (arrow) so the manifold mounting nut can be removed

On 4A-LC engines,

Chapter 2 Part

72

5.6

Remove all braces

(note their locations to

A

Engines

5.7a

On 4A-LC

simplify installation)

engines, remove the intake-to-exhaust manifold bolts (arrows)

Intake Manifold

Gasket Air Control

Valve

5.7b

Intake manifold mounting details (4A-GE engine)

5.7d

Intake manifold mounting details (4A-FE engine)

5.7c

5.8

On 4A-GE

Be very

engines, remove the the manifold

careful

control valve with

the gasket mating surfaces gouges very easily

when scraping

the aluminum

air

Chapter 2 Part 6

Unbolt any braces

7

Remove

in

still

A

73

Engines

place (see illustration).

Exhaust manifold - removal and

the nuts/bolts, then detach the manifold from the engine

(see illustrations). If the manifold is stuck to the engine, tap it with a rubber mallet or place a block of wood on the manifold and tap it with a hammer. On 4A-LC engines, remove the exhaust manifold (see Section 6).

Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the manifold and cylinder head (see illustration), then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop and resurfaced necessary. 9 Install a new gasket on the engine, then position the manifold on the head and install the nuts/bolts.

Refer

installation

to illustrations 6.3a, 6.3b, 6.5, 6.6, 6. 7a, 6.

7b and

6.

7c

8

If

if

1

Tighten the nuts/bolts

Chapter's specifications.

in

three equal steps to the torque listed

Work from

in this

the center out towards the ends to

avoid warping the manifold. 1

1

Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Before starting the engine, check the throttle linkage for smooth oper-

1

:

cedure.

On 4A-LC engines, the intake and exhaust manifolds share the same gasket. To replace the gasket, the intake manifold must be removed Note: first

(see Section

5).

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire harness. If you're replacing the manifold, transfer the sensor to the new manifold (see Chapter 6). Remove the heat shield(s) from the manifold (see illustrations). 3 4 Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust manifold mounting nuts/bolts and 1

2

the exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts.

ation. 1

Warning The engine must be completely cool before beginning this pro-

Run the engine and check for coolant and vacuum leaks. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation of all accesso-

5

6

ries.

6.3a

Remove

6.5

the outer heat shield (4A-GE engine shown)

oil, then remove the exhaust manifold-to-pipe mounting nuts

Apply penetrating

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (see illustra-

tion).

Remove any

6.3b

6.6

manifold-to-block braces (see illustration).

Unbolt the inner heat shield,

if

equipped

Remove the exhaust manifold braces (4A-GE engine shown)

(arrows)

74

Chapter 2 Part

6.7a

A

Engines

4A-LC engine intake/exhaust manifold and gasket

4A-GE engine exhaust manifold mounting

6.7b

Remove

7

details

the nuts/bolts and detach the manifold and gasket (see

il-

lustrations).

Use a scraper to remove

8

all

traces of old gasket material and carbon

deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces.

Be careful gouge the delicate aluminum surfaces on the cylinder head. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop and resurfaced necessary. Position a new gasket over the cylinder head studs. Install the man9 ifold and thread the mounting nuts/bolts into place. not to

if

10

Working from the center

torque 1

Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

1

Run

7

the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

Timing

and

6.7c

4A-FE engine exhaust manifold mounting 1

2

Exhaust manifold Nuts

3

details

and sprockets - removal, inspection

Removal Refer to

illustrations

7. 1, 7.

10a,

7.

10b,

7.

7.

10d,

7.

10e, 7.11a,

7.

11b,

7. 15, 7.

16a,

7.

16b,

7.

16d,

10c,

Bolts

The timing belt covers have removable plugs (arrows) that allow you to check the belt match marks without removing the covers (4A-LC engine shown)

belt

installation

7.

12a,

7.

12b,

7.17, 7.18a

7.1

out, tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified

three equal steps.

in

7.10a

7.

13a,

7.

13b,

7.

14a,

7.

14b,

7.

16c,

and 7.18b

4A-LC engine timing

belt

cover bolt locations (arrows)

Chapter 2 Part A

7.10b

4A-LC engine timing 5 6 7 8

Bolt

1

2

Crankshaft pulley

3

No.

1

timing belt cover

4

No.

2

timing belt cover

75

Engines

belt

and

related

components - exploded view

No. 3 timing belt cover

9

Bolt

Idler pulley

10

Tension spring

Timing belt guide Timing belt

11

Crankshaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket

12

The timing belt match marks may be checked without removing the 1 covers (see illustration). Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Block the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts 3 on the

wheel and raise the front of the vehicle. Support the front on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel and right lower splash pan. 4 5 Loosen the water pump pulley bolts (see Chapter 3). Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1 ). 6 7 Unbolt the cruise control actuator (if equipped) and set it aside. On models with 4A-FE engines, remove the windshield washer reservoir. Support the engine and remove the engine mount (see Section 1 8). 8 Note If you intend to remove the oil pan in addition to the timing belt, support the engine with a hoist from above (see Chapter 2B - engine removright front

of the vehicle securely

:

al).

Remove the water pump pulley bolts and pulley. Note: It may be necessary to remove the transaxle mount bolts (see Chapter 7) and raise the engine slightly to obtain clearance for pulley removal.

9

Remove the upper (no.

1

1 )

4A-GE engine timing belt cover bolt locations - the numbers indicate the various lengths (in millimeters)

7.10c

timing belt cover and gaskets (see illustra-

tions).

Position the

11

number one

piston at

TDC

on the compression stroke

On 4A-LC and 4A-FE engines, make sure the small hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the TDC mark on the cam bearing cap (see illustration). On 4A-GE engines, align the marks on the sprock(see Section

ets with the

3).

marks on the rear cover (see

illustration).

Keep the crankshaft from turning with a large screwdriver or a pry bar

1

(see Section 16).

Remove

the bolt and detach the pulley (see illustra-

can be removed by hand. Caution: Do not use a jaw-type puller 1 3 Remove the lower timing belt cover(s) and gaskets. It may be necessary to remove the air conditioner idler pulley (see illustration). Slip the

tions).

Sometimes the

pulley

I.

off the crankshaft, noting how it's installed (see illustration). you plan to reuse the timing belt, paint match marks between each sprocket and the belt and an arrow indicating the belt's direction of travel

belt 1

4

to get at the

oil

pump

or front crankshaft

oil

seal,

remove the

sprocket from the crankshaft (see illustration).

If

Loosen the timing

the pulley ly

you need

guide

(see illustrations). 1

16 If a camshaft sprocket is worn or damaged, or if you're replacing the camshaft oil seal(s), remove the camshaft cover, hold the camshaft with a large wrench and remove the bolt, then detach the sprocket (see illustration). Note the locations of the knock pins and/or index marks for correct sprocket installation (see illustrations). 17 On 4A-GE engines, after the camshaft sprockets are removed, the rear cover bolts are accessible (see illustration). 18 The match marks on the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump housing must be aligned (see illustration). If the sprocket is worn or damaged, or if

tighten

belt idler pulley set bolt (see illustration) and push

down (against spring tension) as far as it.

Slip the belt off the sprockets.

it

will

go, then temporari-

Inspection Refer

to illustrations

7.

19a,

7 19b,

7.21, 7.22

and 7.23

Caution: Donotbend, twist or turn the timing belt inside out. Donotallowit to

come in contact with oil,

coolant or fuel.

Do not utilize timing belt tension

Chapter 2 Part A

76

7.1

1

No.

2

4A-GE engine timing

Od

timing belt cover

2

No. 3 timing belt cover

3 4 5

Exhaust camshaft sprocket Intake camshaft sprocket Gasket

6 7 8 9 10

belt

Engines

and related components - exploded view

Idler pulley

11

Crankshaft sprocket

12

1 timing belt cover Crankshaft pulley

Timing belt

13

Drivebelt

Tension spring Timing belt guide

14

Water pump pulley

No.

QH-

7.1 Oe 1

Upper timing

2

Bolt

3 4 5

Idler pulley

Timing belt Bolt

belt

4A-FE engine timing cover

6 7 8 9 10

belt

and

related

components - exploded view

Camshaft sprocket

11

Crankshaft pulley

Crankshaft sprocket Tension spring Timing belt guide

12

Bolt

13

Inspection plug

14

Center timing belt cover

Lower timing

15

Bolt

belt

cover

Chapter 2 Part

On 4A-LC and 4A-FE engines, align the camshaft sprocket timing hole (arrow) with the center mark on the cylinder head

7.11a

7.12a

Remove

the crankshaft pulley bolt,

A

Engines

7.11b

77

On 4A-GE engines,

align the marks on the sprockets with the marks on the rear cover, as shown

then use a puller that applies force to the hub to 7.12b remove the crankshaft pulley - a jaw-type puller will damage .

.

.

the pulley

7.13a

Remove

the A/C idler pulley nut (arrow), then detach the pulley

7.13b

The cupped edge (arrow) face out

when

of the timing belt guide

it's

reinstalled

must

78

7.14a

7.15

7.16b

Chapter 2 Part

If

you're going to re-use the belt, index it to the camshaft sprocket(s) (4A-GE engine shown)

Temporarily pry the sprocket aside and retighten the bolt

When removing

or installing the camshaft sprockets on a

4A-GE engine, make sure the camshaft sprocket index marks are aligned with the stationary marks on the rear timing belt cover

A

Engines

7.14b

mark the belt's direction of rotation, then index the belt to the crankshaft sprocket

Also, be sure to

7.16a When removing the camshaft sprocket bolt, hold the camshaft with a large wrench as shown - DO NOT use the timing belt tension to keep the camshaft from turning!

7.16c On 4A-GE engines, the knock pins (arrows) on the camshafts should be positioned as shown, with the pin on the intake camshaft at 12 o'clock and the pin on the exhaust cam at five o'clock

Chapter 2 Part A

79

Engines

i&*4>

rf&m

1

2* it

1

* 7.1 6d

On 4A-FE

engines, the knock pin should be approximately 11 o'clock (arrow)

Is?

-

—

On 4A-GE

engines, to pull the rear timing belt cover off the all seven bolts - the seventh bolt, which isn't visible in this photo, is just below and to the right of the engine mounting bracket (if the cover must be removed, the

7.17

at

cylinder head,

remove

engine mounting bracket must be disconnected)

7.18a

The match marks on the crankshaft sprocket and housing must align (arrows)

7.19a

To remove the timing belt idler pulley, remove the detach the spring (arrows)

oil

pump

bolt

and

7.18b The crankshaft timing belt sprocket can usually be pried off with a small pry bar - if the sprocket is stuck, use a puller

7.19b

Check the idler pulley bearing for smooth operation and measure the free length of the spring

!

80

Chapter 2 Part

A

Engines

**$$$$$§

7.22

If

the belt

is

cracked or worn, check the sprockets for nicks

Wear on one side

7.23

Check the timing

7.21

belt for

On 4A-LC and 4A-FE

7.35a

cracked and missing teeth

engines, check the timing belt

7.35b

On 4A-GE engines, check the timing

keep the camshaft or crankshaft from turning when installing the Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft more than a few degrees (necessary for tooth alignment) while the timing belt is removed. 1 Remove the idler pulley and check the bearings for smooth operation and excessive play (see illustration). Inspect the spring for damage and compare the free length to the Specifications (see illustration). 20 If the timing belt broke during engine operation, the valves and/or pistons may be damaged.

Recheck the camshaft and crankshaft

to

27

are properly aligned.

22

If

the belt teeth are cracked or pulled

water pump,

oil

pump

off

or camshaft(s)

wear

or cracks

(see illustration), the distrib-

may have

seized.

check

to see if there are nicks or burrs on the sprockets (see illustration). 23 If there is wear or damage on only one side of the belt, check the belt guide and the alignment of all sprockets and the idler pulley (see illustraIf

there

is

noticeable

in

the

belt,

Replace the timing

noted or

28

Install

timing

if

it's

the least

belt with

bit

a new one

if

obvious wear or

damage

is

questionable. Correct any problems which con-

be sure they

If

the original belt

is

being reinstalled, align the marks

made

during removal.

29 Slip the belt guide onto the crankshaft with the cupped side facing out (see illustration 7.13b). 30 Keep tension on the side nearest the front of the vehicle. If the original belt is being reinstalled, align the marks made during removal. 31 Loosen the idler pulley bolt 1/2-turn, allowing the spring to apply pressure to the

32

idler pulley.

Tighten the

idler pulley

mounting

bolt to the

torque listed

in this

Chap-

ter's specifications.

33

Slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand two complete revoluIf resistance is felt, stop and recheck your work. Don't

force the crankshaft to turn - pistons is

may hit open valves

Recheck the

until you 're

Installation illustrations

7.35a

If it

timing

match marks.

If

the marks aren't aligned exactly,

DO NOT start the engine

absolutely certain the timing belt is installed correctly. Serious

35

to this

spring.

The

idler

should be pulled back against spring tension as far as possible and the bolt temporarily tightened.

the valve timing

and costly engine damage could occur if the belt is installed wrong. Measure the timing belt deflection (see illustrations) and compare

and 7.35b

Remove all dirt and oil from the timing belt area. was removed, install the idler pulley and tension

if

incorrect.

repeat the belt installation procedure. Caution:

25 26

to

the timing belt on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and

idler pulley.

34

tributed to belt failure prior to belt installation.

Refer to

marks

tions (720 degrees).

tion).

24

belt deflection at

the top (arrows)

sprocket bolt(s).

utor,

of the belt indicates sprocket

misalignment

deflection here (arrow)

21

and burrs

Chapter's specifications.

If

the belt

is

too loose or

tight,

it

repeat the

adjustment procedure, then recheck it. 36 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 37 Run the engine and check for proper operation.

Chapter 2 Part

8.2

8

Carefully pry the old seal out of the

Crankshaft front

Refer to

illustrations

oil

8.2

seal

oil

pump housing

- replacement

it

or multi-purpose grease. Apply moly-base grease to the

seal

lip.

4

Using a socket with an outside diameter

slightly

side diameter of the seal, carefully drive the

new

smaller than the out-

seal into place with a

hammer (see illustration). Make sure it's installed squarely and driven in same depth as the original. a socket isn't available, a short section

to the

If

diameter pipe will also work. Check the seal after sure the garter spring didn't pop out of place.

of large

make

installation to

5

Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket

and timing

6

Run

leaks at the front seal.

the engine and check for

9.2

81

Gently tap the

Camshaft

oil

new

seal into place with a a deep socket

seal(s)

hammer and

- replacement

and 8.4

Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket (see Section 7). 2 Note how far the seal is seated in the bore, then carefully pry out of the oil pump housing with a screwdriver or seal removal tool (see illustration). Don't scratch the housing bore or damage the crankshaft in the process (if the crankshaft is damaged, the new seal will end up leaking). Clean the bore in the housing and coat the outer edge of the new seal 3 oil

Engines

8.4

9

1

with engine

A

oil

belt (Section 7).

Pry the old seal out with a screwdriver

Refer

to illustrations

9.2

and 9.4

Remove

the timing belt, camshaft sprocket(s) and rear timing belt equipped (see Section 7). 2 Note how far the seal is seated in the bore, then carefully pry it out with a small screwdriver (see illustration). Don't scratch the bore or damage the camshaft in the process (if the camshaft is damaged, the new seal will end up leaking). Clean the bore and coat the outer edge of the new seal with engine oil 3 or multi-purpose grease. Apply moly-base grease to the seal lip. 4 Using a socket with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal, carefully drive the new seal into place with a hammer (see illustration). Make sure it's installed squarely and driven in to the same depth as the original. If a socket isn't available, a short section 1

cover,

if

of pipe will also work.

5

Reinstall the

6

Run

camshaft sprocket and timing

the engine and check for

9.4

Drive the

new

oil

belt (Section 7).

leaks at the camshaft seal.

seal into place with a

a

deep socket

hammer and

X*

82

Chapter 2 Part

.'K

10.5

Rocker arm pedestal

bolt loosening

Engines

&

m;r>

Q-

f®J&\

A

sequence

10.6

in place to hold the rocker arm assembly together as you lift it off the engine

Leave the bolts

Remove the distributor and fuel pump (see Chapters 4 and 5). Mark the bearing caps to ensure reinstallation in the same location. Loosen the bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown (see illustration) and lift the bearing caps off. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head and slip the oil seal off the end (see illustration). 9

10

Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and installation (4A-LC engine only)

1

Rocker arm removal Refer

to illustrations 10.5

and

10.6

1

Remove

2

Set the engine at Top

3

Remove

4

Loosen the lock nuts and back off the adjustment screws

the negative cable from the battery.

Dead Center (see Section

_TL

3).

the camshaft cover (see Section 4). until

fr

they no

longer place tension on the valves.

Remove the

arm shaft by loosening each pedestal bolt a little at a time in the sequence shown (see illustration). Leave the bolts in place to hold the rocker arm assembly together and 6 lift the rocker arm assembly up as a unit (see illustration). 5

rocker

W©©r©©M©

Camshaft removal Refer

to illustrations 10.8,

7

Remove

8

With the camshaft

10.10a and 10.10b

the timing belt and the camshaft sprocket (see Section still

in

7).

the cylinder head, use a dial indicator to

check the endplay. Attach the gauge to the end of the head and move the camshaft all the way to the rear. Next, use a screwdriver to pry it all the way forward (see illustration). If the end play exceeds the specified limit, replace the camshaft and/or the cylinder head

10.8 Using a screwdriver as shown, pry the camshaft back-and-forth to check the endplay (thrust clearance)

.

_Tl

_Tl

_n

nr ~\