Travels in Turkey, Asia-Minor, Syria, and Across the Desert into Egypt: During the Years 1799, 1800, and 1801 in Company with the Turkish Army and the British Military Mission 9781463213411

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TRAVELS I N T U R K E Y , A S I A - M I N O R , SYRIA, A N D ACROSS T H E D E S E R T INTO EGYPT

GORGIAS HISTORICAL TRAVELS 17

Travels in Turkey, Asia-Minor, Syria, and Across the Desert into Egypt During the Years 1799,1800, and 1801 in Company with the Turkish Army and the British Military Mission

WILLIAM WITTMAN

GORGIAS PRESS

2007

First Gorgias Press Edition, 2007 The special contents of this edition are copyright © 2007 by Gorgias Press LLC

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This edition is a facsimile reprint of the original edition published by the Richard Phillips, London, 1803

ISBN 978-1-59333-724-7 ISSN 1935-3200

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The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standards. Printed in the United States of America

TRAVELS IN

TURKEY, ASIA-MINOR, SYRIA, ACROSS THE

DESERT

INTO

E

G

Y

P

DURING THE TEARS 17QQ,

T

1 8 0 0 , AND

1801,

IN COMPANY W I T H

THE TURKISH ARMY, AND

THE BRITISH MILITARY MISSION. T O W H I C H ARE A N N E X E D ,

OBSERVATIONS ON THE PLAGUE, AND ON THE DISEASES PREVALENT AND A METEOROLOGICAL

IN

TURKEY,

JOURNAL.

BY WILLIAM WITTMAN, M. D. OF T H E

ROYAL

ARTILLERY,

Member of the Royal College of Surgeons in London, and Surgeon to the British MilitaryMission ailing with the Army of the Grand Vizier.

at

t/À

SuÙijS^jb

c i tijú

-j/^tj'tuïé&œ

V/ ¿ ìè iJJ' i¡ ä) ib»j> -éiiejai &

M>

Jf ùud'ÙJu ^¿•¿¿•SfJ^Ajtui/j,

:—

A ^^¡f/t^j-^i

Jì d -tr'M i¿fifa t*

tâj-^p*»

ñf'^/iufyúu3

faji&ys.

(

I" yf - ^//y/'/vyiÁ- JA///M// »/ _ //f/fj/w/'//.

TO HIS

EXCELLENCY

T H E RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL OF ELGIN, HIS MAJESTYh AMBASSADOR

EXTRAORDINARY

AT THE OTTOMAN PORTE,

fc.

MY LORD, T H E attention, fo honourable to your Lordihip's feelings, with which I, as well as others of our countrymen, was favoured by your Lordihip, while in the dominions of the Grand Seignor, has excited in me fentiments of gratitude, for the public expreffion of which I hope to be forgiven. It is under this impreffion that I have prefumed to prefix your Lordihip's name to a work, which is the refult of my obfervations and inquiries while in thofe countries.

If it ihould ferve to record the hofpitable

and liberal conduit of your Lordihip, in your public capacity, and the refpedt and eileem which that cona2

( iv ) duil could not fail to excite in its Author; and if, at the fame time, it ihould in any degree, contribute to your Lordihip's amufement, it will be a fubject of permanent fatisfa&ion to MY LORD,

Your Lordihip's obliged Servant, T H E AUTHOR. WboJwich, April, 1803.

About the Author " W I L L I A M W I T T M A N , of the Royal College of Surgeons, was Surgeon to the British Military Mission "acting with the Army of the Grand Vizier . . . against the common enemy of the French, who had by that time gained a strong footing in Egypt." His account of that expedition during the years 1799-1801 has been too long neglected as a valuable source of information about the Middle East and the medical problems and therapies at the turn of the eighteenth century. Wittman wrote in a careful, well-ordered style. Unlike many travelogues of his time, his final version has unusual clarity and precision. Some of the best portions of the book concern military life and the cultural differences among the English, the Turks, and the Arabs. Wittman's description of Cairo is detailed and vivid. The medical historian will find his "Medical J o u r n a l " (in the Appendix) an excellent documentation of the problems military physicians had to face, and the meager treatment then available. In addition to the illnesses common to military campaigns—cholera, dysentery, "malignant" fevers, syphilis—the British Mission had to endure the plague that swept through Syria, Palestine, and Egypt. T o Wittman's credit, he attended the sick to the best of his ability although he recognized the danger of contagion. Almost nothing is known about Wittman's private life. His date of birth and the source of his medical degree are not recorded in any source. Wittman died in Paris in 1815. R. M. G.

P R E F A C E .

T N the prefent multiplicity of books, to obtrude a new work upon A

the Public argues an opinion in the Author, that it either contains

fome new information, or if the matter is old, that it is in a drefs which is both original and advantageous.

To the latter the writer

of thefe pages makes no pretenfions; with refpeét to the former, the fault is his own if the work fhould be found to contain no information but what is already familiar to his countrymen. Attached in a profeffional capacity to the Britifli Military Miffion which accompanied the army of the Grand Vizier in its route through Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, during the late memorable campaign, he was certainly in a fituation peculiarly advantageous for obferving the manners, cuftoms, and habits of the Turkiih nation, not only in peace, but in war.

His profeffion afforded him many-

opportunities for improving thefe advantages, by an intimate communication not only with the Grand Vizier himfelf, but with the principal perfonages of the Ottoman empire. Tn the courfe of his travels, he faw many things which, to him at leaft, were uncommon.; and he was in the habit (partly to relieve

vi

PREFACE.

his mind from the irkfomenefs of his fituation, and partly in the hope of gratifying his particular friends) to note down whatever appeared worthy of remark.

On communicating thefe notes to thofe

for whom they were originally intended, it was their wiih to fee them in print, as containing matter which, according to their partial opinion, was calculated to intereft a ftill wider circle.

Such a taik,

when he commenced his journal, he did not expedt he fhould have to encounter; and this ftatement, in every refpeil consonant to truth, he truifo will ihield him from the feverity of criticifm, which is moil properly dire&ed againft fuch publications as are, from the firft, intended to challenge the approbation of the Public. He cannot flatter himfelf with the hope that thefe pages will be found equally agreeable to all readers.

T o fome they •will appear in

parts defective, as they undoubtedly are; to others, the Author may feem occafionally prolix, in recording the particulars of corverfations held with different individuals, either on the civil or on the military ilate of the countries in which he refided.

Yet thofe books

are perhaps the moft inftru&ive, and not the leaft entertaining, which record things as they really happened.

" Truth," fays an ad-

mired author, " needs no ornament; and in my opinicn what ihe " borrows from the pencil is deformity." His profeffional duties led the Author to pay a particular and a minute attention to the climate and to the maladies of which it is

PREFACE.

produ&ivc.

vii

That dreadful difeafe, which has been emphatically

denominated the Plague, was neceffarily a prominent objeil in this fatal catalogue; and, unfortunately for the army which he accompanied, few Europeans have had equal opportunities of witneffing its ravages.

The information which he was able to obtain from the

practitioners of the country he endeavoured carefully to compare with the fad's which fell under his own obfervation: and he has laboured to divefl himtelf of every prejudice in inveiligating the caufes and nature of a malady which has depopulated whole countries, and deflroyed myriads of perfons in a lhort period of time; which bids defiance to every fyilem, and baffles the ikill ot the ableft profeiTors of the medical art. In the orthography of names, whether of perfons or of places, and of thofe local terms which relate to the particular ufages of the countries he vifited, the Author has not adhered to any written authority.

In thefe cafes there is a general difagreement among the

learned: no rale has been eitabliihed; nor is it pra&icable to a foreigner to refer to etymology in languages in which he cannot be profoundly verfed.

He has therefore purfued that method which,

if not the moil cor re (ft, was that which he could with moil fafety and convenience adopt, to be governed by the ear, and to note down thefe names as they were delivered by thofe to whom their oral ufe and general application had rendered them familiar.

viii

PREFACE.

The Author concludes this Preface with an aét of juftice.

Hi«

grateful acknowledgments are due to Lieutenant-colonel (now Sir Charles) Holloway, and to Major Hope, for a copious fupply of ufeful and interefting matter; alfo to Mr. Spilibury, late furgeon of his Majefty's ihip the Tigre, for feveral accurate iketches taken by that gentleman upon the fpot; and to Mr. Read, draughtsman, for his accurate iketch of Grand Cairo, and other places, which have proved at once ornamental and illuftrative of the work.

C O N T E N T S . C H A P T E R I. Military Miffion appointed to proceed to Turkey. Object of the Miffion. Names of the officers who accompanied it. Departure of General Koehler over land, and of the Author by fea. Their refpeitive arrivals at Conftantinople. The ceremonies of confecrating the Grand Vizier's ftandard; of the Capitan Pacha's departure; and of the Vizier's taking the field -

Page

t

C H A P T E R II. Vifit to Pera. Captain Franklin returns to England. Defcription of Conftantinople ; mofques and minarets ; external appearance of the city; the feraglio Suburbs of Galeta, Pera, and Tophana; Scutari; the Bofphorus ; population; amufements. Turkiih fhips. Interior of the Turkiih houfes; ceremonies; dogs; police CHAPTER

TZ

III.

Removal to Buvukdere. Defcription of that village. Favourite amufements of the Grand Seignor. Barracks appointed for the Miffion at Levant Chiflick. Defcription of that place. Dyfentery prevalent among the foldiers of the Miffion. Introduction to the principal officers of the Sublime Porte. Exceffive heat. Defcription of the Turkifli horfes, and the mode of treating them. Mifcellaneous remarks on the natural hiftory, &c. of the country. Frogs and Grafshoppers. Evening walks at Buyukdere, and amufements of the Greeks. Drefs and manners of the Turkiih -women; of the Greeks. Abundance and cheapnefs of provifions at Buyukdere; oxen and buffaloes. Harveft in Turkey. Oppreflions exercifed by the Mahommedans on the Chriftians. Grand Seignor vifits Chiflick, and diftributes fmall money to the Engliih foldiers. Turks taught to practife with red-hot ihot. Defcription of Kaithana, the place appointed for artillery experiments. On board the Charon find two Engliihmen redeemed from flavery. Liberal conduit of a French officer. Greek rejoicings on St. John's day. Entertainment at the Ruffian ambaflador's. Vifit to Conftantinople ; account of the bazars. Further remarks on the city, the feraglio; the mint; mofque of Santa-Sophia. Greek amufements. Vifit on board the Sultan Selim. Sick and wounded foldiers arrive from Acre. Conferences with the Turkiih Secretary of "War on this fubjcct. Order to attend the Grand Seignor ig b

X

CONTENTS.

Page CHAPTER

IV.

Vifit to Levant Chiflick, in compliance with the orders of the Grand Seignor. Practice with red-hot lhot. Prefents distributed to the officers and men.

Or-

ders to attend the Grand Seignor again ; interview with him—confulted by the Aga. bam.

Grand proceffion on the opening of the feftival of the Biram Cour-

Turkifh entertainment.

Remarks on the productions of the feafon in

Turkey, on the difeafes of the country, and the ftate of medical fcience there. Proceflion and feftival of the dervifes. Village and aqueducts of Belgrade. to the Afiatic ihore. tinople.

Order for removal of the troops.

Defcription of Santa-Sophia.

Turkiih fortreiTes

Remarks on the climate and weather.

Charafter of the Turkiih villages. Greek marriage.

Embarkation of the troops CHAPTER

-

Vifit

Fire near ConftanRemarks on the -

-

40

V.

Departure from Conftantinople. Voyage to Chennecally. Seftos and Abydos. Tower of Leander. Arrival at Chennecally. Join the Capitan Pacha's fleet. Vifit of the officers on board the Sultan Selim. Charafter of the Capitan Pacha. Prefent ftate of the Turkiih marine. Diihonefty of a Turkifli marine. Viiit to the ancient Sigasan. -Recovery of fome curioui remains of antiquity. Defcription of the plain of Troy, and the tombs of Achilles. Patroclus, and Ajax. Mount Ida. Defcription of Chennecally. Caftles of the Dardanelles. A b y dos. Decapitation of a Turkiih admiral. Dardania. Orders received to return to Conftantinople. Arrival there 60 CHAPTER

VI.

Reception at Conftantinople. Caftle of the Seven Towers. Palace of Belifarius. Apprehenfion of the plague. Execution of feveral Turks for robberies. T h e Hans, or reiklence of the Turkish merchants. Sudden changes of weather at Conftantinople; fell of fnow. Panorama of Conftantinople. Fatal effects from burning charcoal; feven ladies of the Grand Vizier fuffocated. Ufe of the bath in Turkey. Travelling in Turkey. Singular religious ceremony. Different fefts of dervifes. Intercepted difpatches from the French army. The Ramazani Splendid illuminations. Greek marriage. Ceremonies on board a Ruffian fhip of war. Feaft of Biram. The chief of the white eunuchs. Shock of an earthquake. Violent changes in the temperature. Singular punifliment mflifted 011 a 'l urk for affaulring an Englishman. Formidable hordes of banditti in the vicinity of the metropolis. Singular mode of communicating the plague to a French officer. Launch of a Turkish fevent y-four. Leander's tower. Town of Scutari. Celebration of Eafter among the Greeks, Daringrobbery in- the open ftreet. Severe execution of Janiifaries and feamen. Capitan Paeha fails from Conftantinople. Beautiful appearance of the Afiatic

CONTENTS.

XÏ Page

shore. ship.

Teaft o f the Biram Courbam.

Prayers on board the T u r k i s h admiral's Execution of the P a c h a

Defcription o f the mofques at Conftantinople.

o f Nicomedia.

Fête given by L o r d Elgin on his Majefty's birth-day.

Prepa-

rations for the departure o f the Miffion to j o i n the G r a n d V i z i e r ' s

army.

A n e c d o t e o f the G r a n d V i z i e r

-

-

-

CHAPTER

-

-

VII.

T h e Miffion fet fail f r o m Conftantinople ; anchor at Prince's Iilands. A d a m Oglou.

G r e e k iilands.

oriental plane.

Cyprus ; defcription of that illand.

Junction with the Grand V i z i e r . o f this iituation.

-

Arri-

-

109

VIII.

Alarming information concerning the break-

Encampment near Jaffa ; dangers and inconveniencies

Intelligence received of the affaffination o f General K l e b e r .

T u r k i s h artillery. officers of

Immenfe

Plague o f locufts.

val at Jaffa ; defcription o f that place and its vicinity

i n g out of the plague.

Viilt to

Defcription o f Patmos ; Stancho.

CHAPTER

75

ftate.

Amufement of djerid. Encampment o f the Miffion. T u r k i s h C h a r a f t e r o f the Grand V i z i e r ; o f the Reis Effendi.

fcription o f Jaffa ;

ftorming

o f that place by the French ; inhuman

afcribed b y the T u r k s to Bonaparte.

W a r m bath in the camp.

De-

conduit Eruptive

complaint.

A n e c d o t e evincing the extreme ignorance o f the T u r k s in matters

o f icience.

Infurreition at Nablous.

T u r k i s h foldiery. French.

Undifciplined and diforderly ftate of the

Scene o f the maflacre committed on their captives, b y the

Military exercife of the T u r k s .

Plague breaks out among t h e M a m e -

lukes.

R u f f i a n agent at Jaffa dies o f the plague.

army.

Plague continues t o rage among the Mamelukes.

R e v i e w o f the

Turkish

Defcription o f an

A r a b village, and its inhabitants.

Firft ftone. laid o f the new fortification at

Jaffa.

Mameluke chiefs die o f the plague.

DiiTeftion o f a caméléon.

lence o f the Arnauts, and weaknefs of the T u r k i s h government. jugglers.

C a m p infefted by large packs o f jackals.

count o f the Dehlis

-

-

-

C H A P T E R Progrefs through the H o l y L a n d . martyrs.

Arabian dwellings.

o f the Jewish monarchs.

Defertion of Arnauts. -

Ac-

_

I 2 0

Ruins o f a tower erected in honour o f forty Ramla.

St. Jerom.

Date-trees.

Ophthalmia.

Refidence

Arriyal at Jerufalem ; iituation o f thaf Extraordinary threat

M o u n t o f O l i v e s ; David's t o w e r ; holy f e p u l c h r e ; fcene o f

our Saviour's fufferings ; t o m b of Baldwin. T u r k i s h fanton.

-

IX.

city ; Solomon's temple ; reûden ce o f Pontius Pilate. o f Bonaparte.

Info-

Egyptian

Vilxt f r o m the M u f t i .

James ; Mount S;on ;

Bethlem ;

Humanity and good fenfe o f a Armenian convent ;

head o f S t .

temple o f St. Catherine ; pools o f fa 2

Solo-

xli

CONTENTS. Page

m o n ; gardens o f S o l o m o n ; birth-place o f our S a v i o u r ; receptacle o f the m u r dered I n n o c e n t s ; tomb of St. J e r o m ; convent of St. Catharine. o f Bethlem.

Inhabitants

Sepulchres o f the k i n g s ; fepulchre o f the V i r g i n M a r y ; val-

ley o f Jehofaphat; impreffion of our Saviour's foot on the M o u n t o f O l i v e s ; tombs o f Abfalom and Z e c h a r i a h ; wells o f N e h e m i a h ; burial-place o f D a v i d ; convent o f St. H e l e n a ; birth-place o f John the Baptift.

King

Jofeph o f

Arimathea.

Topographical account of the moft interefting objects in the H o l y

Land

-

-

ijo CHAPTER

Irregularities in the T u r k i s h camp.

X.

G o v e r n o r o f Damafcus beheaded.

rial delivered to the G r a n d V i z i e r on the ftate o f the camp. T u r k i s h chiefs and foldiers. M a m e l u k e s and Albanians. them their arrears.

T e n t s plundered b y Arabs.

Plague a m o n g t h e

M u t i n y o f the Janiflaries; ceremonies on p a y i n g

A l a r m s excited b y reports f r o m E l - A r i s h .

o f T u r k i s h foldiers for gaming.

Ravages by the plague.

Decapitation

Infurrection in P a -

leftine on account of the heavy impofitions o f the government. ftate o f the British Miffion. dies o f the plague.

D e a t h o f a military artificer.

R e m o v a l o f the camp. dies o f the plague.

Difaftrous

A British gunner

D e a t h o f Mrs. K o e h l e r , and o f the General.

employed to itop the progrefs of the plague.

Precautions

T u r k i s h entertainments in camp.

Inftances o f infiibordination in the camp.

force o f the T u r k i s h army.

Memo-

Defertion o f

Obfervations on the plague.

Ramazan ; Lydda.

Effective

V i z i e r ' s phyfician

T h e G r a n d V i z i e r indiipofed, and

attended by the A u t h o r .

Celebration o f the Biram in camp.

the country about Jaffa.

Climate of Syria ; face of the country and f o i l ; pro-

Remarks on

ductions o f S y r i a ; sheep and g o a t s ; other c a t t l e ; habitations o f the S y r i a n s ; camels, and other beafts o f b u r t h e n ; character and manners o f the

Syrians.

abje£t ftate o f the farmers, or huibandmen.

Bedouins, or wandering Arabs.

Agriculture of S y r i a ; difeafes of Syria

-

C H A P T E R

-

-

-

185

XI.

T h e army o f the Grand V i z i e r ; principal o f f i c e r s ; different cafts o f p e o p l e ; artificers and attendants. ment.

Standards;

Precarious ftate of greatnefs in the T u r k i s h govern-

dervifes.

G r o f s fuperftition of the T u r k s .

relative to the downfall of the T u r k i s h empire. the Janiflaries.

T h e A r n a u t s ; light c a v a l r y ; volunteers.

w h o follow the army.

Plunderers;

T h i e v i s h difpofition o f the Arabs. charafter of the T u r k s .

Mamelukes; Tartars.

Tradition

Origin and prefent ftate o f Religious feftaries

Arabian

camel-drivers.

Guards of honour.

General

Perfonal c o u r a g e ; f u p e r f t i t i o n ; t e m p e r a n c e ; addic-

tion to coffee and tobacco ; g a m e s ; pay and allowance of the foldiery. able ftate o f the medical art among the T u r k s .

Horfemanship

-

Mifer-

216

CONTENTS.

C H A P T E R XII.

Page Narrative returned. Breaking up of the camp at Jaffa. March of the army. New encampment. Account of General Muftapha, alias Campbell. Singular fail relative to the plague communicated by General Muftapha. Several deaths by the plague. Rock where Samfon was furprifed by the Philiftines. E k r o n ; Aihdod ; Aikalon ; Ramah of Gilead. Preparations for march; order of the march. New encampment near Efdal, or Efhtaol. Arab villages: Aflidod, or Azotus. Progrefs of the army. Country round Afcalon defcribed. Dearth of corn in the camp. March towards Gaza; encampment near G a z a ; vifit to that place. Porch of which Samfon carried away the gates ; place of his death. Defcription of the city and fuburbs of Gaza ; port of Gaza ; delightful gardens. Antelopes, quails, jackalls. Strong detachments fent from the Vizier's army for the purpofe of aitive operations. Succefsful progrefs of the British army in Egypt. Scarcity of fpecie in the Ottoman army. March of the army ; difficulties of the march. Encampment at Kahnyounes. Further march of the Ottoman army. Entrance into Africa. Encampment in the defert; inarch over the defert; arrival at El-Arish. Regulations of the Grand Vizier. Arrival of fresh troops Detachment fent off towards Salahieh. Serious difagreement in the Turkish camp. Storm in the defert. Deficiency of provender. Kampfin wind. Cafual fupply intercepted by Bedouin Arabs. Arrival in camp of a French deferter. Lofs of canlels. Embarkation of civil artificers for Tineh. March from El-Arish. Croffing the defert. Encampment at Barrahcat. March acrofs the defert to T h e a h ; encampment there. March to Bir-Denedaiv Overflowing of the Nile. Encampment at Kantara. March into Salahieh. Curious huts inhabited by Arabs. Flight of the French from Salahieh ; fortrefs of Salahieh. Debility occafioned by the kampfin wind. Inhabitants of Egypt. March to Korin; village of Korin. Precious flones. Egyptian partridges. Flocks of doves. Belbeis. Mode of getting in corn in Egypt. Oppreffive heat. Appearance of the enemy. Taher Pacha detached in purfuit. Action between the French and Taher Pacha, in which the former were defeated. Ill ftate of difcipline in the Turkish army. Sackars. March from Belbeis to Meshtoule. Encampment on the Nile ; water of the Nile. T h e Delta. Arrival of General Hutchinfon in the Vizier's camp. Difeafes in the Turkish camp. March to Dagona. Great pyramids of Gaza. Difeafes in the British army. March to Shellacan. New encampment on the banks of the Nile. Armiftice agreed on with the French. Fort Shoulkouski and the pyramids of Giza furrendered. Convention agreed upon. Heliopolis. Clouds of dirft. British troops take poffeffion of Cairo. Defcription of Cairo ; citadel; grand aqucduct; baths; theMtkias, or Nilometer 249

xiv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

XIII. Page.

Excur.fion to the pyramids of G i z a . the great pyramid.

T h e three great pyramids.

T h e great S p h y n x . Veliiges o f an-

A f c e n t to the fummit o f the exterior.

pyramids of Saccara. occafion.

into

Dimenfions o f the great pyramid ; o f the paflage with in-

fide ; paiTages i n t o the pyramid ; gallery. tique buildings.

Entrance

Diftant view o f the

Prefent from-the Sultan to the V i z i e r ; ceremony on this

Feftival on the birth-day of the mother of M a h o m e d . Marriage pro-

ceffion at Cairo.

Details relative to the plague.

Indifpofition o f the G r a n d

V i z i e r . D e a t h o f M r . W h i t e m a n . Unhealthinefs o f the climate o f Egypt. T h e date tree and its fruit.

o f the N i l e .

Interefting converfation w i t h an AbylEnian prieft. Confirmation

o f Bruce's authenticity.

O p e n i n g of the canal.

Ex-

cefllve heat.

V o y a g e in company w i t h M r . Clarke and others to

view the pyramids o f Saccara, and the plain of Mummies. A r a b marriage. o f Memphis. comb of birds.

Inundation

Chief Atman.

Pyramids of Saccara. Plain of the Mummies. Suppofed fcite

Defcent into the Catacombs ; horrid appearance. Egyptian idols,

-

-

CHAPTER E x c u f i o n to O l d Cairo.

.

Pit, or cata-

_

„

32 j

XIV.

G r o t t o w h e r e the holy family took refuge f r o m Herod's

perfecution. Chapel of St. G e o r g e . Expected vifit from the Prophet M a h o m e d . A r m i f t i c e concluded w i t h the French at Alexandria.

E x c u r f i o n to Boulac.

Account; of the ColcalEum. T h e faffron shrub ; Caffira ; Egyptian thorn ; g u m arabic ; herbaceous plants. cent burial places. to M o u n t M o k a t a m . andria.

Menouf.

Surrender o f Alexandria to the British.

Marriage proceffions. Slave market.

of rice and fugar-canes. patra's needle.

Leprofy.

Excurfion

V o y a g e on the Nile to A l e x -

T w o villages fwept away by the overflowing o f the Nile.

W e f t e r n branch of the N i l e . neral Baird.

Magnifi-

Inundation of the N i l e .

M a n n e r of preparing the Indigo.

Rofetta.

Plantations

Plague among the British troops under G e -

L a k e of A b o u k i r . Arrival at Alexandria. Pompey's pillar. C l e o Part of the coloffus o f M e m n o n . CHAPTER

R e t u r n to Cairo.

343

XV.

Defcription of Grand Cairo ; the citadel ; conjeftures relative to its antiquity ; fortifications raifed by the F r e n c h ; the mint ; remarkable debaiement of the coin ; ftreets o f Cairo ; conftruflion of the houfes ; interior and furniture o f the h o u f e s ; palaces o f the Beys ; mofques; dimenfions o f the c i t y ; bazars, or shops.

Improvifatori.

Caliph Salah-Ed-Din.

Population of Cairo.

Inhabitants of Cairo.

faftures ; f w o r d blades ; horfes.

Jofeph's well.

Palace o f the

Coptic 1 anguage ; cirefs ; ruanu-

C o m m e r c e of Egypt.

D a n c i n g girls ; jugglers ; tumblers and pofture-mafters.

A m u f e m e n t s of Cairo. O l d Cairo.

Boulac ;

CONTENTS. grand aqueduct;

XV Page

beafts of burthen ; the B u f f a l o ; oxen, goats, fowls, &c.

Fruits of E g y p t ; vegetables; corn.

-

CHAPTER Arreft of the Mameluke Beys.

365 XVI.

Procession accompanying the facred carpet f o r

cohering the houfe of God at Mecca. Several Beys killed at Alexandria by the perfons fent to arreft them. Anecdotes relative to the plague. Conteft between the Albanians and Mograbian Arabs. Subfiding of the Nile.

Experiment with the freezing mixture.

Excurfion to Heliopolis and the lake of Pilgrims.

curfion to Upper E g y p t ; to Hallouan.

Ex-

Prefent to the Author of a Mummy.

Tourrah ; the caftle. Rout at the Imperial Conful's. Procession from Boulac. Caravan l o Mecca.

Plague at Alexandria.

Vizier prepares to quit Egypt.

Mamelukes privately depart from Giza. Mission ordered to Alexandria ; audience of leave.

Gold medals prefented to the officers CHAPTER

-

-

XVII.

Plague breaks out in the buildings occupied by the British Mission. of the Janifiaries.

Departure of the Vizier.

the ancient city of Memphis. Cairo.

of aevaftation by the Turks. Dahroot.

Cemetery.

Site of

Departure from

Obfervations on the rife and fall of the Nile. CHAPTER

Departure

Excurfion of the Nile.

Remains of the Mekias.

Voyage on. the Nile from Cairo to Rofetta.

381

-

-

397

XVIII. Canal of Menouf.

Cruel inftance

Dangers attending the paffage down the Nile.

Death of the sheick.

Wretched ftate of the inhabi-

tants. Arrival at Rofetta. Plague among the English troops at Rofetta. Some account of the fort and harbour.

Fort Julien.

Hunting of the oftrich.

ings at Rofetta. Population; bazars; wharf. of Egypt. at Rofetta.

FisK'; manufactures; gardens ; morafles ; difeafes. -Plague rages The Miffion embark for Alexandria;

land on the peninfula lead-

ing to Alexandria, where they perform quarantine.

Sepoy tried by a court-

martial for fuffering Arabs to efcape from quarantine. lazaretto. of victories.

Build-

Animals indigenous to this part

Miffion releafed from quarantine. Temple of Diana.

Catacombs and baths of Cleopatra

CHAPTER Departure for Conftantinople. ifland of Caftel Roflo.

Cafes of plague in the

Feftivities in commemoration, -

408

XIX.

Stormy weather.

Obliged to take refuge in the

Ancient Ciftene. Some account of Caftel RoiTo. Ifland

of Rhodes; defcription of the town and ifland; ancient habitation of the knights; coloflus of Rhodes ; ancient Rhodes ; ftate and cultivation of the ifland ; the arfenal; villages;

drefs; vegetable productions.

Stancho ; town and ifland of Stancho; game.

Coaft of Andolia.

Departure from Rhodes.

population; aqueduft; fountain ;

Ifland of Samos.

Scala-Nova.

Arrival at Scio

424

xvi

CONTENTS. Page

CHAPTER

XX.

Appearance and drefs of the G r e e k w o m e n o f the ifland o f Scio.

Light-houfes;

G r e e k convent at N e h a h m o n e e ; curious decorations; foil and cultivation o f t h e ifland ; fchool o f H o m e r ; gum maftic ; D e l C a m p o ; population; t o w n o f Scio ; ftreets; markets ; wines ; port o f Scio.

Paflage to S m y r n a .

Popu-

lation of the town o f Scio ; c h u r c h e s ; general hofpitals ; hofpital for lepers ; fome account of this difeafe ; general difeafes ; medicinal fpring. f r o m Scio.

Mitylene.

population; fruit. Rabbits. cally.

Leibos.

T o w n o f Caftro ;

Ifland o f Tenedos ; town and forts ; commodities.

Banks of the Scamander.

Shennacallv.

Plain o f T r o y .

CHAPTER henfions from banditti.

o f the Danube. l a t ; Yassi. Poland.

441

Appre-

General terror on account

Embarkation f o r G a l a t z in Villages on lire.

Siliftria.

Moldavia. Diftrefling

V o y a g e on the D a n u b e ; defcription of the vefiels. Banks

Fugitives f r o m banditti.

Entrance into Poland.

Salt-pits at W i l i l k a .

rival at V i e n n a .

Comb-

Yenipazzar; Rafgat.

R o u z c h o o k ; Georgival.

Mills elevated on boats.

-

XXI.

A r r i v a l at V a r n a .

o f the approach o f P a f w a n O g l o u . fcene of devaftation.

-

oil;

Ifle o f

T o m b of Patroclus.

Arrival at Conftantinople

Embarkation at Buyukdere.

Torkotoi.

Departure

markets ; t a v e r n s ;

RoiTovat; G i r f o w ; Galatz ; B o r -

Chernowich.

l o u r n e y t h r o u g h part o f

C r a c o w ; S h o t t a u ; Silefia; Neiilifchene.

V a c c i n e inoculation introduced there.

Ar-

Cathedral o f St.

Stephen ; W i d d e n theatre ; Imperial l i b r a r y ; menage ; theatre de la cour } cabinet of m e d a l s ;

general h o f p i t a l ;

Angular opinion on the brain. the Emperor Jofeph II. vatory;

cabinet o f natural hiftory.

Hofpital for lunatics.

Imperial palace at S c h o m b r u n .

model o f our Saviour's f e p u l c h r e ; arfenal;

Departure from V i e n n a

-

-

CHAPTER Journey t h r o u g h G e r m a n y . in Bavaria.

Houfes.

Lintz.

M e n a g e r i e } obfer-

collection o f pictures.

-

-

-

Ratiibon ; Franconia.

W u r t z b u r g ; the palace, citadel, and bridge.

D r e l s o f the w o m e n

Drefs of the female peafants. E f l e l b a c h ; Eichafienberg ; D e t -

t i n g e n ; H a n a u ; F r a n k f o r t ; Koenigftein.

Seltzer water.

Dufieldorf.

Drefs of the peafants.

W e f e l ; Arnheim.

R o a d s in Holland.

U t r e c h t ; R o t t e r d a m ; Helvoetfluys.

-

XXir.

Glandular fweliings.

Seat of the Prince Palatine.

N e w and

A n e c d o t e relative to

Limbourg;

Dowz;

Duyibourg ;

Face o f the country and cultivation. Arrival in England

-

-

A P P E N D I X , containing a Medical Journal, Historical Journal o f Plague, and a Meteorological Journal. TRAVELS

486

T R A V E L S IN

ASIATIC TURKEY, SYRIA, AND EGYPT.

C H A P T E R

L

M I L I T A R Y MISSION A P P O I N T E D T O P R O C E E D T O T U R K E Y MISSION

NAMES

OF T H E

OFFICERS

O B J E C T OP T H E

WHO A C C O M P A N I E D

IT

DEPAR-

T U R E O F G E N E R A L K O E H L E R O V E B L A N D , A N D OF T H E A U T H O R B Y THEIR R E S P E C T I V E A R R I V A L S N I E S OF C O N S E C B A T I N G

AT

CONSTANTINOPLE

THE

THE GRAND VIZIER's S T A N D A R D ;

SEA

CEREMO-

OF T H E C A -

P 1 T A N P A C H A ' S D E P A R T U R E ; A N D OF T H E V I Z I E R ' s T A K I N G T H E F I E L D .

r

J n O W A R D S the clofe of the year 1798, a plan was formed by his Majeily's minifters to fend to the dominions of the Grand

Seignor a Britiih military million, which was to proceed to the feat of war, and to co-operate with the Turks againft the common enemy, the French, who had by that time gained a ftrong footing in Egypt.

For this purpofe General Koehler, who had been at

Conftantinople on a former occafion, was fele&ed, together with feveral officers belonging to the corps of royal engineers and royal artillery.

Thefe, with a certain number of non-commiffioned officers

and privates belonging to the corps of artillery, and a few artificers, compofed the above miffion, confifting altogether of fcventy-fix perfons.. B

2

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, T h e officers who were appointed on this occaiion to af the Rain. -S Wind ® c/3 Wind K W Wind — —

— —

— — — -

-

-

-

— --

-

--

2 2

NW NW NW NE WNW

NW NW NW NW NW

I I I I I I I I I

NW

NW NW NW

NW

NW

I I

NW

I

Calm NW NW NW N NW NW NW NW NW

' 2

98

2 2 2 2 2 2

I OI IO4

j : I 1 I : I i I I

NW j

1

NW ! NW ¡ I NW ! 1

I06 IO4 I04

2 I05

2 98 2 96 95

96

-

-

--

-

2 95

-

95

-

2 I

I06

2 'OS 2 I06 2 '05

2 2

-

2 99 2

2

98 103

2 101 2 96 2 96 2 96 2 96 2 95

2 95 2 2 2 2

99

98 98

98

--

-

_ --

--

-

--

— -

w NW NW NW NW NW NW NE NW NW NW NW NW NW

NW NW NW

NE

NW NW NW NW NW NW

NW

3 2 2 3 2

3 3 3 3 3 3

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

2

2 2 2 2 2

NW NW NW 2 NW { 2 NW 2 NW ! 2 4 G

6

94

—

92 92 6 101 6 98 6 6

-

6 92

-

92

-

6

6

NW

-

NW

4

6 6 6

6

6 6 6 6 6

-

NW

94

-

93

-

90

6 92 6 100 6 94 6 90

89

2

NW

-

-

90

6 95

3 3

-

-

6 92

6 6 6

3

3

3 3 3 3 3 3

6 TOI 6 94 6 94 6 94 92 6

NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NE NW NW

_ — -

-

90 90 90 90 90 89 9c

-

95

--

--

-

NW NW NE NE NW N NE NNW NW NW NW NW NW

NW NW NW NW NW

2

3 2 2

3

2 2 2

3

2 2 2 2

3 3 3 3 3 i

Remarks, Hazy & cloudy do. do. do. do. Great f o g and heavy dews do. do. do. do.(Gr.Cairo) do. Tempeft. winds Clear [duft,&c. do. do. Oppreilive Clear do. do. do. do. do. do. -do. Cloudy&fogsjy Cloudy Clear CO. do. do.

(

574

)

STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. D u r i n g the M o n t h of A u g u f t Thermometer, Morning. Vi 0 ^ c fiS I 3 4

5

6

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Ic 16 l

7

18

¡9 20 21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28 29

3° 31

Thermometer, Noon.

Force s -O Sun. Wind. of the Wind M X 8 87 " 7 8 38 — 8 90 8 86 8 83 8 83 „ 8 82 8 82 8 82 g S2 »82 „ 8 82 8 32 „ 8 So 8 So „ 8 81 8 80 „ 8 81 8 79 — 8 79 „ 8 8c 8 79 8 78 _ 8 79 8 79 8 80 8 79 8 79 „ 8 80 „ 8 78 8 79 - -

NW NW NW W NW NW NW NW NE E NW NW NW N N NE N NE N N NNW NNW NNW NNW NNW N N NW NW NW NW NW

I 1 1 I I I I I I I I I I 1 I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I

rt

10

3 3 100 i o 3 3 3 98 3 95 3 96 3 97 3 95 3 96 3 104 3 3

95 94 94 94

3 3 3 91 3 92 3 92 3 93 2 3 9 1 3 9 3 92 3 92 3 90 3 89 3 90 3 89 3 85 85 3 88 3 90 90

1 8 0 1 , in G r a n d C a i r o . Thermometer, Evening.

Force Force Sun. Wind. of the 3 Sun. W i n d . of the Rain. Wind Wind E cc

NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NE SW NW NW NNE N N NW _ N NNW NNW NNW NNW N NNW NNW NNW -NW NW NW NW — NW NW --

2 I 2 2 3 2

1

2 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 1 2 3

3 3 3 1 1 2 2

3

2 2 2 1 1 2

6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6

95 96

-

99 95 88 90 90

-

85 92 92

-

9P 90 6 88 6 85 6 85 6 8i 6 85 6 85 6 8i 6 85 6 85 6 85 6 85 6 84

6 85

6 6 6 6 6 6

„

84 82 80 82 85 85

-

-

--

NW NW NW NW NW NW NWNW N NW NW NW N N N N N NNW NNW NNW NNW N NNW NNW NNW NW NW NW NW NW NW

3 I 3 3 i

3 3 1 3 3 3 2 2

3 3 2 2 2 2

3

2 2

3 3 3 2 2 2 1 2

Remarks.

Clear do. Cloudy Clear do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Cloudy Clear Cloudy do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do.

(

575

)

S T A T E OF T H E R M O M E T E R , W I N D S , R A I N , &c. During the Month of September 1801, in Grand Cairo. Thermometer, Morning - .

Sept.

0 V ¿r* f the Rain.

--

NW NW N NW NW N N N N N N N NW NW N NW NW NW NW NW NW NW N Calm Calm NW N N NW N

2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 3 2 3 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2

3 3 3

2 2

Clear do. do. do. do. Cloudy do. Hazy do. do. Cloudy do. do. Clear do. do. Very cloudy the ClearLwhole day Cloudy Clear Hazy Clear do. do. do. do. do. Hazy Cloudy do.

(

)

S?G

S T A T E OF T H E R M O M E T E R , W I N D S , RAIN, &c. During the Month of O&ober 1801, in Grand Cairo.

87'

871 872 874 »75

876 877

8 75 8 75

876 876 8 77

877 876

8 75 8 75

876

8 75 8 75

876

8 75 ¡73

¡74 ¡74 ¡75 ¡75 ¡75

29 3l

876 87-5 S 75 8165

Calm N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N NE NE NE NE NE N NW Calm Calm

Thermometer, Evening.

Force Wind. of the Wind

Force Sun. Wind. of the Wind

a£ s1

3°

Thermometer, Noon.

Thermometer, Morning.

oa.

379

380 380

3 79

378

3 79 3 79

79 3 79 79 79

78

79

380

83 379 3 3 3 79

380

3

3 82 382

NW N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N NE NEE NEE NEE NE NE NE NW Calm S

Force "2 Sun. Wind. of the Rain. Wind

67.5 75 77 78 78 678 677 678 6 79 679 677 678 679 677 678 678 678 678 678 678 679 68

678 6

77

678 78 77 79 77

78 678

NW N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N NE NE NE NE NE NE N NW N S

Remarks.

Cloudy Clear do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. 'Hazy Clear do. do. do. Hazv Clear do. do. do.

C

577

)

STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. D u r i n g the Month of November 1801, in G r a n d Cairo, Thermometer, Morning. ^O A

OS I 2 3

4 J 6 7 8

9

10 11

12

*3

14 15 16

1

7

18 !

9

20 21 22

®3 44 25 26 27 28 29

3°

V jj T3 K Su — K CO

__

Wind.

s s 8 65 s 8 64 — s w 8 66 Calm NW 8 65 8 67 - Calm NW 8 66 8 65 S NW 8 66 8 63 _ N W S 8 58 — Calm 8 60 8 6 2 — Calm 8 39 _ Calm S 8 57 S 8 58 - 8 5 8 _ Calm 8 59 _ N W NW 8 61 — S 8 59 — S 8 5* 8 60 — Calm S 8 j8 S 8 5® 8 6 1 — Calm S 59 — Calm Calm 8 59 Calm 8 60 8 55 — Calm 8

65 S 66

Thermometer, Evening.

Thermometer, Noon.

Force of the P Wind X 3 2

I I

I 1 I 1 I I

2 I 1 I 2 I I 2

3 3

O Forci Force 4 TJ L u n Wind. of the rt Sun Wind. of the Rain. -C« Wind X Eg Wind

77 78

3 76 3 75 3 75 3 76 3 76

3 76 3 74 3 69 3 66 3 66 3 70 3 68 3 70. 3 70 3 70

-

— -

-

-

_ —

_ -

3 7° 3 68

68 3 68 3 68

3 68 3 77

3 72 3 69

3 68 3 7° 3 69 3 7°

— -

-

— —

_

—

S s s w W NW NW NW NW NW N NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NE S SW NW NW NE NEE NE

3 3

1

2 2

I 3 3 3

3 2

3 2 2

3

2 2 3

1 1 1 3 3 1 2

i

2

3 1

S SW NW -W 6 72 -w 6 72 NW 6 72 NW 6 7 2 a. N W 6 70 NW 664 NW 6 64 N 6 64 — N W 6 66 NW 6 66 — NW 6 65 NW 6 Calm 6 65 NW 6 65 „ N W NW 6 64 NW 6 65 NW 6 65 NW 6 65 NE 6 67 6 67 S 6 68 — Calm Calm 6 66 6 65 _ N W 666 Calm 667 Calm NE 667

2

74 74 6 74 71

I 1 I

»

t I 2 I 2

I I I

I I

1 t

I I

I I 2 I I 1

....

Remarks Cloudy

• r . #Clear

Cloudy do. Clear I Cloudy do. do. t do. .... Clear Cloudy 2 do. Clear Cloudy Clear 2 Foggy Clear do. 2 Thund. lightn. & rain P. M. 2 Cloudy do. 3 Clear I Cloudy do. do. do. Clear . . . do. do.

N. B. T o give an idea of the quantity of Rain fallen, I have marked the figures t , 2, 3, 4 again it Rain, to denote the relative quantity fallen ; 1, ftands for very little •, 1, a. ftiower 3 , repeated fhowers ; and 4, continued heavy rains. O n the morning of the 2 0 t h , we had tremendous ftorm of Rain, T h u n d e r , and Lightning, which began at two o'clock, and continued near t w o hours. Morning dews have been heavy. Intermittents and Catarrhs a m o n g the troops at Giza, &c.. 4 H

(

578

)

S T A T E OF T H E R M O M E T E R , W I N D S , R A I N , &c. During the Month of December 1801, in Grand Cairo.

I 2

3 4 5 6

7 8

9

IO 11 12

'3 14 15

16

»7

18 19 20 21 22 2

3

24 2

5 26 27 28 29

3° 31

8 60 8 60 8 55

8 56 8 55

8 60 8 55 8 59 8 58 8 60

8 56 8 56 8 58 8 60

8 58 8 56 8 54 8 52 8 53 8 56 8 58

8 60 8 58 8 6c 8 55 8 56 8 53 8 5° 8 49 8 48 8 56

Thermometer, Noon.

Force Sun. Wind. of the Wind

__ Calm -

_ _ -

_

—

-— — — -

_ -

— -

NE NE Calm S SE S S N W w N N NE NW NW SE S S S S Calm Calm NW N N S Calm Calm Calm S S

I I

3 2

1

i i 2 i i 2 2 i i

2 2 2 1

1 1 i 2

3 3

Hour. I Shade.

Thermometer, Morning.

Days of Month. 1 Hour. 1 Shade. I

Dec.

2 70 2 68 2 69 2 70 2 7» 2 7» 2 68 2 68 2 68 2 67 2 66 2 65 2 68 2 69 2 68 2 &9 2 68 2 2 73 O 73 i 83 2 66 2 65 2 66 2 64 2 65 2 66 2 65 2 68 2 68 2 7°

%

Thermometer, Evening.

Force Sun Wind. of the Wind

__ NW --

-

-----

--

--

NE NE N S WNW N N NW N N NE NE NE NW SW S N S Calm S NW N N N NW NNE NE S S S

2 3

4 3 3 3 i i 2 2 2 2 2

4

2 i 2 i 2 2 i 2

3 2

3 3 2

3 4 2

Force Sun. Wind. of the Rain. Wind 67 665

66 66 66

665 66 5 665 664

6 6 6 6

665 662 662 62 62 67 667 72

6

662 662 660

6

657 658 660 660

Calm N Calm N SW NW N N NW N N NE N NE NW N S N S Calm Calm Calm N N N N INNE N N S S

Remarks.

Cloudy &foggy do. & do. Clear do. do. Cloudy do. do. |do.(fogg.A.M) Clear Cloudy Clear Cloudy Clear do. do.(fogg.A.M) do. Foggydo. do. do. do. do. Hazy Clear do. do. do. do.(cloud.A,M) do. Cloudy

(

579 )

STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. During the Month of January 1802, in Grand Cairo.

I

2

3 4 5 6 7 8

9

10 11

12

*3 14 15 16

17

l8

!9

20

21 22

23 24 25

26

27 28 29 3° 31

8 61 8 56 8 54 8 48 8 44 8 45 8 47 8 5° 8 55 8 5° 8 52 8 5° 84S 8 48 8 47 8 47 8 57 8 57 8 6. 8 61 8 53 8 51 8 52 8 47 8 49 8 46 8 46 8 43 8 43 8 43 8 43

__ Calm

NW Calm Calm Calm _ Calm Calm Calm Calm — S S Calm Calm -NE -

-

---

--

Calm SW S S N

--

SW

--

S Calm Calm

--

-

2 I

2

Calm

Calm S Calm SW SW SW SW

--

3

2

r 3

2 I

2

4 2

3 2

3

2 73 2 70 2 67 2 67 2 66 2 64 2 66 2 66 2 69 2 71 2 72 2 69 2 68 2 69 2 70 2 71 i 73 2 78 2 82 2 71 2 66 2 68 2 68 2 68 2 53 2 53 2 55 2 55 2 55 2 56 2 58

Thermometer, Evening.

Force Sun. Wind. of the Wind

__ N W -

— -

--

-

— -

-

--

--

—

-

-

-

NW NW NW N N NW NW S S N W NE NE NW NW S s s N N S S SW SW NW NW W SW NW NW

3 3 3 3 3

2

2 1 1

3 1 1 3 3

2 2

3 3 2

3 i

4 1

2

4 4 3 4 1

2 2

Hour.

Force Sun. Wind. of the U P O Wind X

1 Shade.

Thermometer, Noon.

1 Shade.

Thermometer, Morning. 1 Hour. ¡Shade.

*

Days of Month.

T Jan

Force Sun Wind. of the Rain. Wind

6 64 „ 6 62 6 63 6 59 6 58 — 6 58 _ 6 60 6 60 6 63 6 62 6 64 6 61 _ 6 62 — 6 64 — 6 63 _ 6 63 6 61 6 73 6 68 6 63 6 62 6 62 6 61 — 6 61 6 54 6 5o 6 51 6 5 o -6 5o 6 51 6 55 -

NW NW NW N N N NW NW Calm S Calm NW NE NE NE NW SW S N N Calm NW S SW w NW NE W W NW NW

2

3 1 1 1

1 1 1

2 2 1

1 1

z 1

2 2 1 i 1

1 1

1 1 1 1

Remarks»

Cloudy do. Clear(gr.fogA.M) Hazy (do. A. M.) Clear (do. A. M.) do. (do. A. M.) do. Foggy Clear (very foggy do. [A. M.) Foggy Clear do. Hazy(foggyA.M) Fog. the whole day Great fog ¡^nearly Hazy Great fo Clear do. do. (foggyA.M.) Hazy Clear do.dur. night; a [strong gale S . W .

Rainy Cloudy do. do. Clear Cloudy

( 5»° ) STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. During the Month of February 1802, in Cairo, on the Nile, and at Rofetta. Thermometer, Morning.

Thermometer, Noon.

Force Sun. Wind. of the Wind

W W sw s sw s sw s Calm N S S Calm Calm W Calm S S S sw SW SW SW WNW WNW

NWN, S SE

Thermometer, Evening. Force Sun, Wind. of the Rain. Wind

Force Sun. Wind. of the Wind

NW NW SW WNW WNW

2 2 260 266

SW E SW NE NE SW SW NW N NE NE S S SW SW

WNW

NW

WNW WNW WNW

NWN NE NE

659 655 654 656 6 54 6 56 6 S6 6 62 62 663 56 63 62 660 661 58 55 661 660 660 664 S 60 i 60

NW NW SW WNW WNW

WNW NW SW NE NW SW NW NW NW NE Calm Calm Calm NW WNW WNW

NW

WNW WNW WNW

NWN NE NE

Remarks.

Cloudydo. do. do.

do. (3 Rain) do. do. do. Clear Rainy Cloudy Foggy &cloudy Hazy & cloudy Cloudy & foggy do.(gr.fogA.M. Foggy & rain Clear(rain3A.M. Cloudy Clear (on theNile Cloud.(lightning do. do. Rain (Rofetta) Cloudy do. (Rain 2) do. do. do.

(

S8i

)

STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. During the Month of March 1802, at Rofetta and Alexandria. Thermometer, Morning.

-0 Sun. s O S E CO I

2 3 4 5

6 7 8 9

IO

11 12

!3 14 15 16

17

18

>9 30 21

22 a 3

24

8 52 8 60 8 6l 8 62 8 66 8 63 8 64 8 62 8 64 8 6S 86j 8 6S 8 62 8 62 8 65 8 64

__ — — — — — — — -

8 63

8 61

8 57 8 57 8 60 8 64 8 65 86j

—

—

_

Thermometer, Noon.

Force Wind. of the Wind

E NEN N NWN NE SE NE NE SE SE NEN N NE E E Calm SWS NW WNW

NEN NE NE NE SE

4 4 4 2 I I 2 I I

3 2

3 2 2

4 3 4 4 4 2

2 I I

^rt 3un.

X

ffi cn 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

62 61 64 66

-

67

-

68 68 70 72

75 75 74

2 69 7°

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

— -

70

75 79 63 63

65

60 66 67 2 68

-

—

-

-

--

-

-

Thermometer, Evening.

Force Wind. of the Wind

NE NEN N NWN NE NW NE NE NE N NW NWN N NE NEN NEN SWS WNW WNW

NEN NE NE N NW

4 4 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

3 2 2

2 3 2

4 4 4 4 2 2 1 2

a -0 e* Sun. co 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6

59 59

60 62

-

NE N N NWN NE NW NE NE NE NEN NWN NWN NEN NE E NEN NW

-

WNW

-

64. 62 64

-

64

-

65 65 65

--

--

-

«

64

--

63 63 63

-

66 69 60 60 60 60

Force Wind. of the Rain. Wind

--

-

---

64

-

65 65

-

NW NE NE NE N SE

4 4 4

2 2 2 X 2

3 2

1

2

3 3 4 1 4 3 4 2 2 2

1 2

Remarks.

Cloudy Rain Cloudy Clear Cloudy do. do. do. Clear do. Rain Clear Cloudy do. Clear do.great dews Cloudy 3 Rain, ftormy 3 do. & co. 3 Cloudy,ftormy 1 [th.light.&rain .... Cloudy do. Clear 2 1

N. Having broke my Thermometer, I was under the necefiity of concluding my Thermometrical Journal. 4 i

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER FOR P L A C I N G T H E

PLATES.

Frontispiece, to face the Title. Plate I. A Greek Lady

-

.

II. T h e Grand Seignor

-

III.

T h e Capitan Bashi

_

IV.

T h e Superior of the Derviches

V.

T h e Capi A g a

VI.

_

_

Toutoun Bashi

.

.

to face page

24 46

_

_

_

_

62

_

_

92

-

84

_

_ -

-

-

126

-

-

-

148

I X . T h e Topgis Bashi, or Commandant of Artillery

-

_

200

Plan of the Encampment of the Grand Vizier at Jaffa

-

VII. VIII.

X.

-

-

Jaffa, with the encampment

130

A D e h l i — T u r k i s h Light Cavalry

A Cadi A i k e r , or Judge

XI.

-

-

-

Etchi Bashi, or Chief Cook of the Janissaries

XII.

A n Arnaut Soldier

XIII.

A ditto

XTV.

A Mameluke Soldier

-

_

-

-

_

_

_

_

_

_

_

_

ibid 242

XV.

A Seis, or Arab Groom

XVI.

V i e w of El-Arish, with the encampment of the Ottoman army

XVII.

G r a n d

XVIII.

A Chiaous Bashi

XIX. XX.

-

246

Cairo, with its citadel, under Mount Mokattam -

230 238

_

226 228

-

-

-

280

-

312

-

326

Rosetta, and an Egyptian Mosque—Fort Julian, with an Egyptian Boat A Lady of Grand Cairo

3 S

6

374

Map of the Author's route from Constantinople to Jaffa

-

396

A Turkish Firman, or Passport

-

462

.

.

.

I

N

D

A BOITKIR, lake of, 358 Absalom, tomb of, 168 Abyssinia, information relative to, and Bruce's Travels, 332 Abydos, site of the ancient, 7 1 , 72 Acacia, or thorn, whence the gum-arabic is colleited, 346 Admiral, a Turkish, decapitated for neglect of duty, 72 Agriculture, state ôf, in Syria, 222 Alexandria, ancient monument at, 359, 360 , temple of Diana at, 422 Aimés, or dancing-girls, 376 Ambassador, English, at Constantinople, fête given by on the King's birth-day, 107 Ambassador, Russian, celebration of the Emperor's birth-day by the, 31 Amusements, favourite, of the Grand Seignor, 1 p of the Turks of condition, 35 Aqueduct, at Belgrade, erefted by the Emperor Justinian, 51 at Cairo, 378 Arab groom, portrait of an, 246 Arab marriage, celebration of an, 334 sheicks, dress of the, 327 towns, mostly built upon eminences, cause of the choice of such sites, 152 — — villages and inhabitants, 140, 151 Arabagis Bashi, an officer of the Turkish army, 227

E

X

.

Arabian camel-drivers, character and manners of, 242 Arabs, method employed by thêta to preserve their corn from pillage and fire, 154 , two classes of, Fellah and Bedouins, 218 plunder the tents of the English at Jaffa, 187 Archipelago, iflands of, r u , 1 1 2 , 424, 440 Army, Turkish, the, attended by a number of dervises, 10 encumbered with useless followers, 230 cavalry belonging to the, 240 principal officers of the, 227 — review of the, by the Grand Vizier, 138 undisciplined state of, 134 various complexions of the soldiers composing the, 229 Arnauts, character, dress, arms, &c.of the,237 , desertion of, from the Vizier's army, 148 Ascalon, 254 , description of the country round, 59 Ashdod, and the adjacent country, 254,258 Astrologers consulted relative to the proper time of launching a ship of war, 97 Atmeydan, or hippodrome, for athletic exercises at Constantinople, 35 , grand obelisk in the middle of A e , 35

INDEX.

584

Bakers, punishment of fraudulent in Tur-

Bethlem, description of, 1 6 1 , 104 , church of St. Catharine at, 1