Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa ... in the Years 1849 -1855 [3]

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3*1

TRAVELS and DISCOVERIES IN

NORTH

CENTRAL AFRICA.

and

BEING A

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION UNDERTAKEN

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF n.B.M.'S GOVERNMENT, IN TIIE YEARS

1849-1855. BY

HENRY BARTH,

Ph.D., D.C.L.,

FELLOW OP THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND &C, &C.

IN

ASIATIC SOCIETIES,

THREE VOLUMES.

VOL.

III.

NEW YORK: HARPER

&

BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, PKANKLIN SQUARE.

1859.

CONTENTS OF

THE THIRD VOLUME. CHAPTER DEPARTURE FOR TIMBUKTU.

—THE

Lin.

HILLY NORTHWESTERN PROVINCES OF BORNU.

—Pecuniary Circumstances. —Inroad — — My Servants. —The two freed Africans. — The Mejebri. — Encampment Kahluwa. — Great Cold. — Suwa Buwa. — of Koyam. — The old Inhabitant of Birni. —Fertile The farming Village. — The Drain of the Komadugu. —Fractions of Tribes.— Character of the Komadugu.—Fulbe Cattle-breeders.— of Ghasreggomo.— The Ruins. — The Komadugu — Considerable Current. —Province of Manga. — Manga Warriors. — Manga Females. —Borzari. — The Bedde and Komadugu. — Meeting with Mohammed ben A limed. — Daring Theft. — Wall of Gesma. — Immense Ant-hills. — Donan. — Reach again Zurrfkulo Page 17

My Situation

at the

the Tawarek.

Death of Mr. Overweg.

— Take Leave

of

of the Sheikh.

Projects. in

District

Districts.

Site

at Ze'ngiri.

their

CHAPTER

LIV.

THE MOUNTAINOUS TERRITORY OF MUNIYO AND

—

ITS

— —

GOVERNOR.

—

Busy Scene at Ngarruwa. Well of Berbe'ruwa. Notice of Auyok. Chelugiwa. Natron Lake of Biine. New and Old Bune. Conflagration. Peculiar Character of Muniyd. Palm-grove of Tungure. View of Gtfre. Estate of Muniydma. Audience with Muniydma. His Character. Slave Hunting. Site of Gilre. Peculiar Site of Wushek. Sacred Site of Gabata. District of Keleno. The Natron Lake or A'bye. Lakes of Badamimi. Plan of the Oasis of Badamimi. Varied Vegetation. Fresh Lake and Natron Lake. Survey of the Lake. Governor of Badamimi. Mirriya, a favored Locality. Character of Zinder. Ground-plan of Zmder. —Importance of the Town.—Pecuniary Supplies 43

—

—

—

— — —

—

—

— —

CHAPTER

— —

—

—

—

—

—

— —

LV.

—

DEPARTURE FROM ZINDER. THE BORDER REGION BETWEEN THE BORNU AND THE FULFULDE EMPIRES. SECOND STAT IN KATSENA.

— —Highway Robbers be feared than rapacious Governors. An old Acquaintance. —Unusual Mode of drawing Water. — Conspicuous Valley,

Line of Route.

less to

with dense Grove of

Dum

Chief Sadiku.— Night's

Palms.— Gazawa again.—The Ex-governor and rebel March.— Arrival before Katsena.— Interview with the

Governor.—The Ghaladima of Sdkoto.—New Stores laid in in Katsena.— The Faki 'Abd e' Rahman.— His Arguments in favor of Polygamy.— Unforeseen Dif7G ficulty. Conduct of the Governor of Katsena

—

CHAPTER LVL JOURNEY FROM KATSENA TO SOKOTO. Setting out from

Katsena.— The Dordwa-tree.—Tobacco and Yams.— Great De-

CONTENTS. tour on account of hostile

Kurrefi and

its

Army.

—Kulkada. —Ku>aye\ — Expeditionary Corps. —

Fortifications.—An agreeable Incident.— Unsafe District.—Town

of Ze'kka.—Desertion of Servant.—Dangerous Night's

'

March.— Bunka.— Zyrmi.

—State of Zanfara.— Trade with Doddwa Cakes.—Dilchi.— Market of Badar^wa.—The Zanfarawa and Goberawa.—Tribute of Katsena.—First Rtfdu.— Sansanne Ai'sa. Night's March through the Wilderness of Gundumi. Arrival in Kind Reception. Presents, how received. Gawasu*. First Meeting with 'Ah'yu. Page 88 —Letter of Franchise.— Arrival at Wurno

—

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER

LVII.

RESIDENCE IN WURNO. Superior Position of the Fu*lbe.— Their Origin and Intermixture with other Tribes. Their Divisions. Progress of the Different Nationalities absorbed by them.

—

—

—

Tribe from the .

the

West.— Fulbe

Century.—Rise of Sheikh 'Othman

in Sixteenth

Reformer.— Sultan Bello.— Present State of the Empire.— My Quarters

in

—

Wumd. General Character of Wurno.—Particular Description.—Ground-plan of Wurno.— Unsafe State of the Province.—Dread of the Goberawa.— Gloomy Prospects for my Journey.— Occupation.—Aspect of the Country.— Captain Clap-

—Fine Valley of Bainurna. —Excursion to Sdkoto. —Appearance —The Syllebawa and their Chief Hamedu. —Clapperton's Death. The Valley of Sdkoto. — Ground-plan of Sdkoto. —Return of the Sultan. — Muperton's Route.

of the

sical

Town.

Presents.— My Friend 'Abd

Allahi and Bello.

el

Kader of A'gades.— Literary Works of 'Abd

—Death of the Ruler of Masina CHAPTER

110

LVIII.

STATE OF INSECURITY ALONG THE MOST FREQUENTED HIGH ROAD.

— —

—

—

— GANDO. — —

Departure from Wurno. Leave Sdkoto. Heavy Rain. Fields of Yams. BodinThe Shagali. Senina. Character of Gando; Ground-plan. Dendi. ga. Sultan Khalnu.—Difficult Transactions.—A'hmed B£ba's History of Songhay.— 139 Climate of Gando. Extent of Empire..

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER THE PROVINCE OF KEBBI AND

ITS RIVER.

LIX.

—THE

VALLEY OF FOGHA.—REACH THE

NIGER.

—

— —

— —

Leave Gando. Extensive Rice-grounds. Kainbasa. Swampy Valley with RiceGulumbe, rich Vegetation. grounds. Gaumache. Unsafe State of the Country. Kardi.—Hausawa. Birni-n-Kebbi. Situation at the Brink Solitary Pilgrim. of the wide swampy Valley* 'Othman Zaki. Kola and its Governor. Jugguru*. Zogirma and its Governor. Dangerous Road. New Companions. Tilli. A Day in the Wilderness.— Site of Birni-n-De'be.— Dallul Mauri.— Shallow Vales—The Valley of Fdgha.—The Salt of Fdgha.— Character of Fdgha PeoImportance of Fdgha in Ethnological Respect. Plenty of Kola-nuts, but no ple. Unexpected Generosity. Dense Forest. A solitary Limtiini. Bdso. Corn. Songhay Farming Hamlets. Avoid Garbo. Lanadeji. Peculiar Corn-stacks. Tamkala. Short Marches. Tdndifu". Reach the Niger. Aspect of the River. Large Canoes. Town and Market of Say. State of Market. Traffic. Gov148 ernor of Say.—No Songhay Interpreter

— —

—

—

—

—

—

— — —

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

— —

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

— — —

CHAPTER LX THE HILLY COUNTRY OF GURMA, Leave Say.

—Low

Situation.

— Sand-wind

and heavy Thunder-storm.

—Town

of

CONTENTS. Champagdre.—Architecture.— Mohammed Galaijo.— His Residence.— His former State.— His new Settlement,— His Court.— The Gurma and the Songhay.— Songhay Towns.— Torrent Gdrebi.— Champalawel and its Governor.— Gilro Caravan.— Smelting Furnaces.— Bangapelle.— Elephant Traces.— Bosebango.— River Sfrba.— Frail Raft.— Smoking Disposition.— Mode of carrying Water.— Country beyond the River.— Bunddre.—Denga.—Fine Timber for Boat-building. Sebba, Capital of Yagha. Description of Huts.— Reception by Governor. Provisions.— Holiday.— The Kadhi p age 179

—

—

CHAPTER

LXI.

PROVINCE OP LIBTAKO.— SOUTHEASTERN LIMIT OF THE RANGE OP THE COMMERCE OP TIMBUKTU.

—Character of Country. —Namanttfgu. —The Arab from —Wandering Fulbe. —Tumpenga, and reformatory Struggle. — UnhosReception. — Ddre, Capital of Libtako. — Importance of Market of Ddre. of supplying my Wants. — Mdsi Traders. —Drought. —Anarchy. —Vari-

Plenty of Water-courses. the West. pitable

Difficulty

ous

Names

of Dore'.— Interesting Relations of Water

Communication.—Political

Situation.—Delay.—News from Timbuktu.— Unlucky Fate of a Letter

CHAPTER

197

LXII.

UNSETTLED PROVINCES OBSTRUCTED BY NATURE AND INFESTED BY MAN. DA. HOMBORI.

—

— ARIBIN-

Uncertain Distance from Timbuktu.— Departure from Ddre.— The Ponds, or * We'ndu."—Providentially detained in Wiiln.— Numerous Sheets of Water.—Difficult '

— Serious Encounter. — Crossing a Swamp. —A'ribmda. — a —Independent Character of Inhabitants. — Tinge. — Groundplan of Dwelling. — Character of Inhabitants. — Habits of Industry. — Heavy Rains. Kissour. —Fulbe Cattle-breeders. — Hdmbori. — The Black Worm. — Kubo. —District Tondi. — Craftiness of El Walati. — March of Red Worms. — Isolated Mounts. — Native Dwellings. —Dima. — Governor of Dalla. — Munddro. Curious Thatchwork.— Hdmbori Range.— Variety of Huts of I'saye'.—Approach Hdmbori Mountains. —Castellated Mounts. —Bone.. 207 Water-course.

Songhay

Filiyo,

Village.

Cailli^'s

CHAPTER

LXIII.

IMOSHAGH OR TAWAREK ENCAMPMENTS SOUTH OP THE NIGER. WATERS OF THE GREAT RIVER. Visit

Encampment.

—LAKES

AND BACK-

—Tawarek Tents and Comforts. —A Cascade. —Apparel. —Con-

duct of El Walati.—District of Imeggelele'.—Native Horse-dealers.— Bele, Chief

Haw-n-A'dak.— Tawarek Women and Boys.—Presents.— Camels knockof Mmta.— Bambara or Hudari.— Its Importance.—Personal 235 Relations.— The MeTiedi expected.—The Chief Somki of the

ed

up.—District

CHAPTER

LXIV.

THE NETWORK OF CREEKS, BACKWATERS, AND LAKES BELONGING TO THE NIGER. SARATAMO.

—NAVIGATION TO

KABARA.

Creek of Bambara.— Character of Bambara.— Great Heat.— Indiscreet Inquiries.— Lake Nye'ngay.— Character of Country.— Somki's Camp.— Mohammed BonyaVarious Performances. Embark on the Creek. mi. Town of Sarayamo. Good Fish. Very winding Course. Wide open Branch. Character of Creek. Animated Scenery.—Town of Banay.— Island of Kdra.— Sanyare.—Enter the 249 principal Branch of Niger.— Majestic Scenery

—

—

—

—

—

—

•

•

•

•

• •

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER LXV. ARRIVAL AT KABARA.

—ENTRANCE

INTO TIMBUKTU.

T6sakal.— Kordme.—Large Number of Boats.—Branch of Kordme.—Arrival

K^bara—Description

of

Kabara.—The

at

Harbor.— Unwelcome Timbuktu.— Momentous Page 269

Inspector of the

Visitors.— Interview with Sidi A'lawdte.— Approach to

Meeting.—-Entrance into Timbuktu

CHAPTER LXVI. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF SONGHAT AND TIMBUKTU.

A'hmed Baba,

the Historian.— His Authority.— Origin of

Name.— Sonni 'AH.—Haj Mohammed

Timbuktu.—Form

of

A'skia.— Condition of Songhay Empire. Power of the .Governors. Despotic Rule. Heir AppaList of Provinces. Commerce. Intercourse with Egypt. rent. Political Condition of Songhay. 281 Army.—The Ruma.—Political Situation of Timbuktu.—Latest Events

—

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER

— —

LXVII.

FIRST MONTH OF RESIDENCE IN TIMBUKTU.

Awkward Position.—Presents

to

Sidi

Alawate.—View

of the

Town.—Caillie''s

—Purchase of Calico. —The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekri. First Trial. —Firmer Position. —Different Meaning of Words in different States of Society. —Letter to El Bakay. — My own Quarters. —False Prospects of Home Journey. — First Interview with the Sheikh. — Major Laing. —Presents. — — Orders from Hamda Allahi. — Intrigues successfully overcome. — Night's Sketch.

Illness.

-

Watch

299

CHAPTER FIRST RESIDENCE IN THE DESERT.

—

LXVIII.

POLITICAL COMBINATIONS.

—GREAT MOSQUE.

GROUND-PLAN OF THE TOWN.

—

—

Leave the Town. The Camp.— Political Schemes. Attempt at Proselytism. Return to Town.—Movements of the Fulbe.— Annoying Circumstances.—ExA few cursion to Kabara.—Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Allahi. The Great Mosque. Ground-plan of the Town.— Circumference. Palm-trees. Wall. The different Quarters of the Town. Inhabitants. Another Stay in the Camp. Sand-eating. Private Life in Camp. Tediousness of Position 315

—

— —

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER

—

—

LXIX.

POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY.—DANGEROUS CRISIS. Interruption of Caravan

Trade.—The Tajakant.—Position

of the Fiflbe in relation

sent from Hamda-Allahi —Dangerous Situation. — catch me. —Host repulsed. —Letter from Hamda-Allahi. — Interview with the Power. —Presents. —Large Troop of Chief of the Tademekket.— Knowledge Berabish Horsemen. —Letter and News from Europe. — Hostile Gathering. Town. — A'wab's Account of Leave Town again. — An Embassy. —Return to the Berber Tribes.

Officer

to

is

to

Mungo Park.—Letter

of Franchise.— Momentous

Death of the Chief of the Bein the Desert.— Christian and Mohammedan Principles.— The Inundation.— Stream of running Water in the Desert.— State of Trade.— Small Tajakant Caravan.— Close of the 330 Year

rabish, 'Ah'

Weled 'Abeda.— Out

to the

Camp.— Chanting

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER LXX. NEW

BEGINNING OP THE

TEAR.

—ANOMALOUS

RISING OF THE NIGER. RELATIONS OF TIMBUKTU.

—COMMERCIAL

Cheering Prospects at the Beginning of the Year.— Material Existence.— Unreasonable Dispute about a Point of religious Controversy. Embarrassing Circum-

—

stances.—Anomalous Rising of the River.— The Phenomenon explained.— High State of the Waters.— Machinations of the Merchants from Morocco.— Mysterious Attack of Sickness.— Rainy

Days

in

January.— Departure put

off.

—Demon

Mohammedans.— Small Loan.— Commercial Relations.— Manlimited.—Leather Work.— Specimens.— No Weaving.—Foreign Com-

Principle of the ufactures

merce.— Gold.— Gold and Salt.— Species and Nuts.

Prices of Salt.— Salt and Guro

—Points in the Trade of Guro Nuts. — Cotton Manufactures in former Times.

—Provisions.— Caravans from the North.— Exaggerated Accounts.— Articles of European Commerce.— Important Position of Timbuktu Page 347 .'.

CHAPTER

LXXI.

DIARY CONTINUED.

—

—

My

Informants. Continued Disappointment.— Family Reason of Delay. Leave again for the Tents.— Merits of the Prophets.—Books sent out to Central Africa. Arrival of Sidi Mohammed.— Hammadi. Family Concerns.— Another Arrival

—

—

— —

—

from Ghadames. Unlucky Fate of a Parcel. The Waters subside. Indications of a political Storm. Arrival of another Officer from Hamda-Allahi. Protest of the Brothers. A sleepless Night. Interesting Episode. The Kel-ulli... 369

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER

—

LXXII.

GREAT CRISIS.— OBLIGED TO LEAVE THE TOWN.

—MILITARY

— —

DEMONSTRATION.

—

or great Army of the Awelimmiden. Who is a Moslim ? Celebration Sebuwa. The Gwarrin. The Kel-helukan. Political Crisis. Hasty Proceedings. Warlike nightly Manoeuvres. March of the Tabu arrested. Camp Inconveniences. Political Meeting at the Rodha. Consultation of the Brothers.—Policy of the Fill be.—Further Difficulties.—Life in the Camp.— The Gwanm again. Turbulent State of the Country.— Presents.— Intrigues. Na-

The Tabu of the

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

tive

Estimate of Europeans.— General political Relations

CHAPTER

381

LXXIII.

ABORTIVE ATTEMPT AT DEPARTURE FROM TIMBUKTU. Setting out from

Bdse-bango.— Tawarek Encampments.— Amalelle.— Camp of

the Kel-n-Nokunder at Ernesse.—Hospitality of the Kel-ulli.— Camp of the Tarabanasa.

Welad

—Relations of various Chiefs. —Tautilt —The chivalrous Woghdugu

and the Chief Woghda.

—The 403

Moliik.

CHAPTER LXXIV. RETROGRADE MOVEMENT TOWARD TIMBUKTU.

— Quarrel of the Igwddaren. —Return westward. — Berber — Swamps and Rains. —A Camp Motion. —Lady Trav—The Kinsman of Saul. — Exciting News. —Relations with the French. Ernesse again. — Downs of U'le-Teharge.— Parting with Kungu. — The Camp

The Rebel Chief Aldibi.

and Canaanitic Names.

in

elers.

at

A friendly

Chat.— Return

of Servants from

Town.—News

from Timbuktu.. 413

CONTENTS.

xii

CHAPTER LXXV. FINAL AND REAL START.

—CREEKS

ON THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE NIGER,—

GHERGO.—BAMBA.

—

—

—

Real Start. Leave U'le-Teharge.— A welcome Parcel. Gigantic Reteui. Females of the Welad Moluk.— Peaceable Tolba.— Wild Hog.— Zangway.—The Creeks.— E'm-n-kuris.— Tamizgida.— Ghdrgo.— Hospitality of the Kdl-antsar.— Crossing Creeks.— Approach to Bamba.— Scenery of the River.—The Ruma.—

Smoking.— The Cocks

Baimba.— Sidi Mohammed's Family.— Scarcity of Page 431

of

Supplies

CHAPTER LXXVI. THE DESERT.

—COUNTRY

ALONG THE BORDER OF THE RIVER. SOUTHEASTERLY BEND. ING.

—

—GREATEST NARROW-

A Night March through

Swamps.— Terarart, northernmost Creek of the Niger.— "Tahdnt-n-eggish."— Various Personalities.— The Chief Sadaktu.—Hot Camping-ground. A poisonous Spider. Encampment of Sidi Ilemm. Beginning of the rocky District.—Tin-shenfen.— The Kel e' Siik.— Tawarek Ladies.— The River at Tin-sherifen.—Rocks in the River— Cry of the young Zangway... 448

—

—

—

CHAPTER LXXVII. TOSAYE, OR THE

NARROWING OF THE RIVER.—BURRUM ANCIENT RELATION TO EGYPT.— GREAT SOUTH-SOUTHEASTERLY REACH.

Incident in African

;

Warfare.— Island

of

A'dar-n-Haut.—Burrum.— Intercourse

— Slow Progress. —Intercourse by Water between Gdgd and Bamba. — Morals of the Kel Suk. — The Tin-ger-E'ge—River between steep desh. — Curiosity of the Women. — Mount Tondibi. — Appearance of our Party. Swampy District Abuba. —The Ibawajiten. — Great Breadth of the River. —First

with Egypt.

e*

Cliff's.

Sight of Gdgo'.— Appearance of Industry..

461

CHAPTER LXXVIII. THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SONGHAY, AND

ITS

NEIGHBORHOOD.

—

— — — — — — to leave Gdgd. —Arrival of the Chief Thakkefi. — His Proposal.

Gdgd and Timbuktu. —General Description of Gdgd. Rich Vegetation. The Mosque. Meeting of native Chiefs. Khozematen and Hanna. The Ga-bero. Encamp in Barno. Hippopotami. Their Hospitality. Return to Gdgd.

—

Preparations

Survey of the River.

—

.

.

479

-

CHAPTER LXXIX.

— —

SEPARATION FROM THE SHEIKH. CROSS THE RIVER TO THE SOUTHWESTERN SIDE. VARIOUS ENCAMPMENTS. RIVER STUDDED WITH ISLANDS. ANSONGHO.

— —Bornu-gungu. —The Ga-bibi. —Unsettled Tdngi. — Barbarous Custom. —A'dar-nndurren. — Island Ansdngho. — Iron Gates —

Separation from the Sheikh.

Districts.

of Akaramby.—Rocky Character of River.— Burre.— Fillbe Settlers.— Rapids. Tiborawen.—Wild Scenery.—The I'meh'ggizen.— Island Katubu.—A River ArWild River Scenery at E'm-n-i'shib. Parting with Mohammed the chipelago.

—

Kel

e'

—

Suki

494

CHAPTER LXXX. DENSER POPULATION BEGINS. .

Difficulty of determining the

Water-courses.— Granite Boulders.— Aydru and

its

CONTENTS.

—Kendaji and Chief. —A — Camp of Eratafani. —Rocky Nature of River-bed. — Sinder, the Corn Market.— State of Hausa. — Date Palms. — Mohammed Saleh. — Rich Country. — A'zemay. —First Hausa Salute. — The Korti'ta.— The River Sirba. —Wantila. — An alarming AdCultivation.

its

fertile District.

Doubtful Escort.

venture.—Cotton Plantations.— Birni.— Island of Be'-gungu.— Margin and Cliffs of the River.— Arrival at Say Page 508

CHAPTER LXXXI.

—JOURNEY THROUGH DENDINA AND KEBBI. —Market of Say. —Inundated State. —Leave Say.

SECOND RESIDENCE IN SAY. Audience with the Governor.

Tanna.— Minge.—Tamkala and its reduced Condition.—Audience with Aim el Hassan.—His Position.— A Hausa Nobleman.—Friendly Reception in Garbo.— A Storm.—Town of Kalk'yul.— Isolated Specimens of the Oil Palm.— DeT)e.— Pernicious Effect of Water. Town of Tilli. Sickness of Seni. The swampy Gulbi-n-S6koto. nition.

— — — —Birni-n-Kebbi. — Swampy Valleys. —Jega. — Cheering

—Arrival at Gando

Recog534:

CHAPTER LXXXIL SECOND STAY IN GANDO, SOKOTO, AND WURNO.

Awkward

Fate of a Letter.— Abundance of Rains.—Leaving Gando.—Variety of Vegetation.—Effect of Rains.— Arrival at Sokoto.— Unofficial News of Vogel's

— Swollen Torrent of Sokoto. —Kind Reception Wurnd. — State of In—Prices of Market. —Present from 'Ah'yu. — Sickness. — Sad Condition of Negroland. —Leave taking. —New Route. — Gulbi-n-Raba. — Long March Gandi. —Another long March. — Moriki. — Duchi. — Town of Ka'mraane'.— Another

Party.

at

security.

to

unsafe Wilderness.— Take Leave of Ghaladi'ma.— Arrival in Kand...

CHAPTER

LXXXIII.

SECOND RESIDENCE IN KANO, UNDER UNFAVORABLE CIRCUMSTANCES K UK AW A. Financial Difficulties.

.

—MARCH

TO

— Sickness of my Horses. —Want of Information. —Varying —Disappointing News from Zmder. —Letter 'Aliyu. — Un-

News from Kukawa.

to

Letters.— Forced Loans.— Final Arrangements.—Leaving Kand.— Aspect of Country.— Kind Treatment at Gi'da-n- Alia.—The Thieves of Gfrki.— Reduced State of Gummel. Last Meeting with Mohammed e' Sfaksi. Departure from Gtfmmel. Mashena. Meeting with Mr. Vogel. Great disappointment. profitable

—

— —

—

"Bune Kayerda Komadugu

Zumkulo. of the

—

S'aid."

—

—Daway. —Kinjeberi. —Various

•

Branches 573

CHAPTER LXXXIV. LAST RESIDENCE IN KUKAWA.

—BENEFIT

OF EUROPEAN SOCIETY.

—UNPLEASANT

CIRCUMSTANCES.

—

—

Arrangements with Mr. Vogel. Departure of Mr. Vogel. Attack of Rheumatism. Abortive Plan of Departure, from Kukawa. Re-enter the Town. Arrival of a Caravan.— News from Mr. Vogel 592

—

—

—

CHAPTER LXXXV. REAL START.— SMALL PARTY.

—

My

—

— —

Camels. Real Start.— First Day's March. Kanembu Hamlets. Ngegimi. Small Alarm. Treatment of Slaves. The Well Bedwaram and Macguire's Death. Desert of Tintumma. A'gadem. Fatigue in the Desert. Crystallized

—

—

—

—

—

CONTENTS.

xiy Tubes.—Well

of

Dibbela.—Zaw-kura.— Caravan of Tebu.—BUma and Kalala.—

—Dirki. —A'shenumma, picturesque Scenery, and Chief. Singular Use of dried Fish. — A'nay. —I'ggeba. — Siggedim. —Value of Horses in the Desert. —Heat of the Desert. — Tiggera-n-Dumma. — El A'hmar. —Bugged Wadi Kawar.

its

its

Passages.— Arrival at Tejerri.— Madrusa.-^- Meet Mr. Warrington.— Entrance Milrzuk.— Revolution in the Regency.—Leave Murzuk.—Wadi Zemzem.— 602 Meet Mr. Reade at 'Am Zara.— Return to Europe.— Conclusion

into

APPENDIX. I.

II.

Present Condition of the Province of Zanfara

A few historical Facts relating to Gober and Zanfara.—Fulbe Tribes

...

Song of Sheikh 'Othman IV. Partition of Kebbi.—Kebbi according to its Partition between the Empire of Sdkoto and that of Gando V. Part I. Towns and Villages of Dendina Part II. A few Remarks on the Province of Yauri, and on those of Mauri and Zab£rma VI. Information with regard to the Provinces of Gurma, Mdsi, and Tombo . VII. Pedigree of the Sheikh Sidi A'hmed el Bakay TOE. Two Poems of the Sheikh el Bakay, wherein he satirizes the Fulbe of III.

•

•

— —

Masina

UOv

637 639 641

643 649 650

»

Translation of the two

633 634

Poems

of

A'hmed

IX. Chronological Table of the History of

Bakay •••• Songhay and el

•

•

655

the neighboring

Kingdoms

657

X. Collection of Itineraries illustrating the Western Half of the Desert, its Districts, and its Inhabitants, and the Course of the Upper Niger 683 XI. List of the Arab or Moorish Tribes scattered over the Western Part of the Desert, according to the Districts of natural Divisions of the Desert in which they are settled 711 XII. Sections and Families of the great Southwesterly Group of the Imoshagh or Tawarek 719 Vocabulary of the Temashight or Tarluye, such as spoken by the XIII. Awelimmiden, with some prefatory Remarks and Notes by Professor

A

Newman

724

XIV. El Bakay 's Letter of Recommendation, translated by Dr. Nicholson XV. Chief Towns and Residences of the independent Songhay between Niger and my Route by Yagha and Libtako XVI. Fragments of a Meteorological Register Index

to the three

Volumes

764 the

768 769 785

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN

THE THIED VOLUME. Page

View of Timbuktu from the Terrace A^bega and Dyrregu Bird's-eye View of Site of Birni The Komadugu at Zengiri Repairing the Wall of Gesma Salt Lake near Bune

of the Traveler's

House

Frontispiece.

22

30 34 41

47 50 52 58

Biiwa-Kolosso

View

of Giire

Ground-plan of Wushek

Wushek

.....•...•.••.•••••..••••.•.....••i...

....

...................

Ground-plan of Oasis of Badamuni Badamiini Ground- plan of Zi'nder Remarkable Fortifications of Kurrefr Ground-plan of Duchi Rudu, or elevated Sleeping Hut

My

Quarters in Wurno....

70 74 .

•

Say Architecture of Champagdre

.

93

118 121

•

133 135 143 151

Valley of Fdgha

The

•

99 102

•

Ground-plan of Wurno IVIarket of Sokoto Ground-plan of Sokoto Ground-plan of Gando View of Giilumbe

01/

66

'.

162

I'sa (Niger) at

'.

.

173 181

Front of Residence of Galaijo

181

Smelting Furnaces Ground-plan of Hut at Namantugu

194

188

View of the Interior of same Hut The Lamdrde of A'ribmda Ground-plan of House in Tinge View of Tinge Isolated Cones of Hdmbori Range

215

Native Huts and Corn-stacks

Ji£0

View of Duna

224

Peculiar Thatch-work

226

195

212

217 223

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

xvi

Page

Songhay Village Hdmbori Range Variety of Huts at Cliffs

resembling

228 229 230

I'sayd

artificial Fortification

•

233 237 238 241 245 268

Mountains of Hdmbori Interior of Imdshagh Tent

Mounts of Nu*ggera...~ Flat-topped Cones

View

of

Bambara

•

Niger at Kordmo Arrival at Kabara

2T1

..

..

Entrance into Timbuktu Ground-plan of my Quarters in Timbuktu Ground-plan of Timbuktu Leather Bag Two Leather Cushions

A

^*> A

280

307 324 357 358

"Bdt"

or E'nnefi, a small Leather Pouch, with three Pockets and Cover, Tobacco and Tinder a Covering for Gun 359 Camp of the Sheikh el Bakay .... oy / A Tawdrek Camp in Motion -419 Amalelle 423 B&mba 446 Ground-plan of Hut of Matting 449 Gagho, or Gdgd 478 Borno on the Niger 487 Anson gho 502 The Niger at Tiborawen 507 Rapids of the Niger at E'm-n-rshib 511 Swollen Torrent of Sdkoto 559 Hamlet of Kanembii Cattle-breeders 604 A'shenumma 617 for

;

•

•

•

•

•

,

,

,

•

•

ERRATA. Vol.

Vol.

i.,

page 208,

of " Rhamadan. of " twelfth century." line 26, add after the words "few huts" the words "This was the site of the celebrated town of Damasak."

line 3,

" "

582,

ii.,

page 621, line

"

read

"Ramadhan"

5,

630, lines 16, 25,

)

and

30,

634, line 2 from bottom,

"

instead

361, line 14, read "tenth century" instead

637, line 6

"

_

rmd f \

.

j¥

.

mstead *f

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN

AFRICA. CHAPTER DEPARTURE FOR TIMBUKTU.

LIII.

—THE HILLY NORTHWESTERN" PROV-

INCES OF BO'RNU.

The

death of Mr. Overweg, happening at a period

prospects of the mission just began to brighten, induced linquish

my

nem and on gerous for

original plan of once

more trying

my

when

me

the

to re-

fortune in Ka--

the N.E. shores of Tsad, as an undertaking too dan-

me

in

my

isolated position,

and the

results of

which

could not reasonably be expected to be great, even with the protection of a small force, in a disturbed country, in comparison with

the dangers that accompanied

of the horde of the after

my

it.

was the character

Besides, such

Welad Sliman and their mode of warfare, that,

having received the sanction of the British government

proceedings, and being authorized

by them

for

to carry out the

objects of the mission as at first projected, I could scarcely venture

myself again with such a lawless set of people. I my whole attention toward the west, in order to explore the countries situated on the middle

to associate

therefore determined to direct

course of the great western river, the

and

at the

same time

I'sa,

or the so-called Niger,

to establish friendly relations with the

pow-

empire of Sokoto, and to obtain full permission myself or other Europeans to visit the southeastern provinces of his empire, especially A'damawa, which I had been prevented from folly exploring by the real or pretended fear of the governor of that province to grant such a permission without the sanction erful ruler of the

for

of his liege lord.

The treaty which I had at length succeeded in getting signed by the Sheikh of Bornu and his vizier on the last of August, together with a

map

as yet visited,

and containing

Vol.

HI.—

of

all

the parts of Central Africa which I had at the

same time

all

the information

TRAVELS IN AERICA.

18

which I had been able to collect concerning the neighboring provinces * I had forwarded home in the middle of October, addressing at the same time the request to H. M.'s consul at Tripoli to send me, by a special courier to Zinder, a certain

me was

sum

of money.

The

through the terrieven of powerpartly and chiefs, different tories of a great many behind me, Zinder left ful princes and as soon as I should have road which I had before

long, leading

;

of money which I had received on my return from Bagirmi being almost all spent in paying the debts which we had incurred when left without sum of 400 dollars, besides a box containing choice means. I could not expect to find fresh supplies, the

sum

A

English ironware, had been some time before consigned to a Tebu of the name of A'hmed Haj All Bfllama but instead of proceedat once with the caravan with which he had left Fezzan, as h.e f

;

ought to have done, he staid behind in his native town Bilma to celebrate a marriage. The caravan, with about twenty horses and a hundred camels, arrived, on the 10th of November, without bringing me any thing except the proof of such reckless conduct

and

any more time in waiting for this should be forwarded to Zinder as soon

as I could not afford to lose

parcel, I left orders that

it

but never received it. Nearly three fourths of the money in cash which we had received being required to pay off our debts, we had been obliged as it should arrive,

to give

away a

great portion even of the articles of merchandise,

who for so long a period toward us, and rendered us services almost without the slightest recompense; so that, on the whole, it was only under the most pressing circumstances I could think of undertaking a journey to the west with the means then But, very luckily, a handsome sum of money' at my disposal. was on the road to Zinder I also expected to receive at that place a few new instruments, as the greater part of my thermometers were broken, and I had no instrument left for making hyp-

or presents, in order to reward friends

had displayed

their hospitality

;

sometrical observations.

An inroad

on a large

scale of a tribe of the

Tawarek, or KinMusa, into the province of Muniyo, through which lay my road to Zinder, delaydin, as

they are called in Bornu, under their

chief,

* This is the map which was published by Mr. Petermann in the account of the progress of the Expedition to Central Africa, adding from Mr. Richardson's and

Mr. Overweg's journals, which I had sent home, an outline of those "

by themselves alone.

districts visited

TAKE LEAVE OF THE SHEIKH.

19

ed my departure for a considerable time. This inrpad of the hordes of the desert claimed a greater interest than usual, espe-

when

considered in connection with the facts which I have set forth on a; former occasion * the Tawarek or Berbers having cially

formed an integral part of the settled population of These Diggera of Musa, who appear to have occupied these tracts at a former period, had evidently formed the firm inoriginally

Bornu.

tention of settling again in the fine valleys of the province of Muniyo,

when to

which are so favorable to the breeding of camels that even the country was in the hands of the Bornu people they used

send their herds there. length, after a long

At

series

of delays, the road to the west be-

came open, and I took leave of the sheikh on the 19th of Novema private audience, none but the vizier being present. I then found reason to flatter myself that, from the manner in which I had explained to them the motives which had induced me to

•ber, in

undertake a journey to the chiefs of the Fiilbe or Fellata, there were no grounds of suspicion remaining between us, although they

made when

it

by Kano

a point that I should avoid going

I rejected their entreaty to remain with

them

;

and even

after

my

suc-

from Timbuktu, they found nothing to object, as I assured them that I might be more useful to them as a faithful friend in my own country than by remaining with them in Bornu. At that time I thought that her majesty's government would be cessful return

induced to send a consul to Bornu, and, in consequence, I raised

on that point. But matters in Bornu greatly changed during my absence in the west, and, in consequence of the temporary interregnum of the usuper Abd e Kahman, and the overthrow and murder of the vizier, the state of affairs there assumed a less settled aspect. I concluded my leave-taking by requesting my kind hosts, once more, to send a copy of the history of Edris Alawoma, the most celebrated Bornu king, to the British government, as I was sure that, in their desire to elucidate the history and geography of these regions, this would be an actheir expectations

f

7

ceptable present.

The vizier, in particular, took great interest in my enterprise, admiring the confidence which I expressed, that the Sheikh el Bakay, in Timbuktu, of whom I had formed an opinion merely from hearsay, would receive me kindly and give me his full protection and I did not fail to represent to them that, if the English ;

* See vol.

ii.,

p. 28.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

20

should sucpeed.in opening these great high roads of the interior even for for peaceful intercourse, it would be highly advantageous articles themselves, as they would thus be enabled to obtain those

which they were in want of from the regions of Western Africa, greater such as kola nuts and gold, with much less expense and a derive to endeavor security and they were thus induced to formhad The sheikh, who profit even from this my enterprise. me ed the intention of undertaking & journey to Mekka, wanted ;

Timbuktu; but, uncertain as be my situation, I could would were my prospects, and as a messenger character not guarantee such a result, which my of the British government would scarcely allow. The sheikh fatigue sent me two very fine camels as a present, which stood the of the journey marvelously, one of them only succumbing on my return journey, three days from Kukawa, when, seeing that it was

to procure for

him some gold

in

difficult as

unable to proceed, I gave

it

as a present to a native nfallem.

Having finished my letters, I fixed my departure for the 25th of November, without waiting any longer for the caravan of the Arabs, which was soon to leave for Zmder, and which, though it held out the prospect of a little more security, would have exposed me to a great deal of inconvenience and delay. Thursday, November 25th, 1852. It was half past ten in the morning when I left the town of Kukawa, which for upward of twenty months I had regarded as my head-quarters, and as a place upon which, in any emergency, I might safely fall back upon for al;

though I even then expected that I should be obliged to return to this place once more, and even of my own free will made my plans accordingly, yet I was convinced that, in the course of my proceedings, I should not be able to derive any farther aid from the friendship and protection of the Sheikh of Bornu, and I likewise fully understood that circumstances mighj, oblige

me

to

make

my return by the western coast.

For I never formed such a scheme

voluntarily, as I regarded

much

whose

it

of

greater importance for the

had the honor to be employed, to survey the coast of the great river from Timbuktu downward, than to attempt, if I should have succeeded in reaching that place, government, in

to

service I

come out on the other

side of the continent, while I

was

fully

even under the most favorable circumstances, in going, I should be unable to keep along the river, on account of its being entirely in the hands of the lawless tribes of Tawarek, whom I should not be able to pass before I had obtained the protection of aware

that,

.

MY SERVANTS. a powerful chief in those quarters.

my own

experience

his projects, in

my

how

21

Meanwhile, well aware from

man

generally remains in arrear of letter to government I represented my princifar

pal object as only to reach the Niger at the

town of Say, while

all

beyond that was extremely uncertain.

My

troop consisted of the following individuals.

little

Mohammed el companied me

First,

young lad who had acas a servant all the way from Fezzan to Kukawa, and whom, on my starting for A'damawa, I had sent home, very Gatroni, the

same

faithful

with my dispatches and with the late Mr. Kichardson's on condition that, after having staid some time with his wife and children, he should return. He had lately come back with the same caravan which had brought me the fresh supplies. Faithful to my promise, I had mounted him on horseback, and reluctantly,

effects,

made him

my

chief servant, with a salary of four Spanish dollars

per month, and a present of

my enterprise

fifty dollars

besides in the event of

being successfully terminated.

My second servant,

Mohammed, I relied most, was Abd- Allahi, or, rather, as the name is pronounced in this country, 'Abd-All^hi, a young Shuwa from Kotoko, whom I had taken

•and the one

upon whom, next

to

f

my

into

service

on

my journey

to Bagirmi,

and who, never hav-

ing been in a similar situation, and not having dealt before with

Europeans, at first had caused ly as

stay in that

me

a great deal of trouble, especial-

up with the small-pox for forty days during my country. He was a young man of very pleasing man-

he was

laid

ners and straightforward character, and, as a good and pious Moslim,

formed a useful link between myself and the Mohammedans

but he was sometimes extremely whimsical, and, after having written out his contract for my whole journey to the west and back, I

had the

greatest trouble in

making him adhere

I had unbounded control over

to his

own

stipu-

my men, because I

agreed with them that they should not receive any part of their salary on the road, but the whole on my successful return to Hausa. lations.

Abd- Allahi was

likewise mounted on horseback, but had only a two dollars, and a present of twenty dollars. Then came Mohammed ben A'hmed, the fellow of whom I have already spoken on my journey to Kanem, and who, though a person of very indifferent abilities, and at the same time very self-conceited on account of his Islam, was yet valued by me for his honesty, while he, on his part, having been left by his countrymen and co-religionists in a very destitute situation, became attached to myself. f

salary of

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

22

my service, one a brother of Mohamwho was only to accompany me as far as Zinder the other an Arab from the borders of Egypt, and called Sliman el Ferjani, a fine, strong man, who had once formed part of the band of the Welad Sliman in Kanem, and who might have been I had two more freemen in

med

el Gatroni,

me from his knowledge of the use of fire-arms and his bodily strength but he was not to be trusted, and desert. ed me in a rather shameful manner a little beyond Katsena. Besides these freemen, I had in my service two liberated slaves, Dyrregu, a Hausa boy, and A'bbega, a Margin lad, who had been of great service to

;

,

A'bbegji.

set free

by

Dyrregu.

the late Mr. Overweg, the same young lads wkom, on I brought to this country, where they prom-

my return to Europe,

ised to lay in a store of knowledge,

been extremely useful

and who, on the whole, have A'bbega not unfrequently

to me, although

THE TWO AFRICANS.

23

found some other object more interesting than my camels, which were intrusted to his care, and which, in consequence, he lost repeatedly.

In addition to these servants, I had attached to my person man as a sort of broker, and who was to serve as a mediator between me and the natives; this was the MtSjebri AH el

another

f

A'geren, a native of Jalo, the small commercial place near Aujila,

which has recently been visited and described by the Abbe HamHe had traveled .for many years in Negroland, and had traversed in various directions the region inclosed between Sokoto, Kano, Bauchi, Zariya, and Gronja. But for the present, on my outset from'Bornu, I had not made any fixed arrangements with this man but in the event of his accompanying me beyond Sokoto, he was to have two horses and a monthly salary of nine dollars, besides being permitted to trade on his own account. Such an arrangement, although rather expensive to me, considering the means at my disposal, was of very great importance if the man did his duty, he being able, in his almost independent situation, to render me extraordinary assistance in overcoming many difficulties but, as an Arab, I only put full confidence in him as long as circumstances were propitious, while his wavering character as soon as dangers began to surround me did not put me in any

ilton.

;

;

way

out of countenance.

These people, besides an Arab, a so-called sherif, from Fas, as far as Zinder, and who had likewise attached himself to my small party, composed the band with which I cheerfully set out on my journey toward the west on the 25th of November, being accompanied out of the town by the Haj Edris, whom I have had frequent occasion to mention. In order to get every thing in readiness, and to be sure of having neglected no

who was going

my enterprise, I followed my my tent for the first day only a couple

precaution to secure full success to

old principle, and pitched

of miles distant from the gate, near the second hamlet of Kalilu-

wa, in the scanty shade of a baure, when I felt unbounded delight in finding myself once more in the open country, after a residence of a couple of months in the town, where I had but

little

bodily exer-

Indulging in the most pleasing anticipations as to the success of the enterprise upon which I was then embarking, I stretched myself out at full length on my noble lion-skin, which formed my cise.

general couch during the day, and which was delightfully cool. Friday, November 26th. This was one of the coldest, or perhaps

TEAVELS IN AFRICA.

24

the very coldest night which I experienced in the whole of my journeys since entering the fertile plains of Negroland, the ther9° mometer in. the morning, a little before sunrise, showing only Pahr. above the freezing point. The interior of Africa, so far re-

the influence of the sea (which is warmer in winter than the terra firma), forms, with regard to the cold season, an insulated cool space in the tropical regions in opposition to the warm

moved from

•climate of the cific

West

Indies,

and Indian Oceans.

and the coasts and islands of the Pa-

We were all greatly affected by the cold

did us a great deal of good, invigorating our frames after did not the enervating influence of the climate of Kukawa. impart to the atset out, however, before the sun had begun to

but

it

We

mosphere a more genial character, when we proceeded on our journey westward. The country which I traversed, passing by the frequented well of Besh&, although already known to me from previous travels, now presented a very different aspect from what it had done on my first journey from Kan6 to Kukawa, those soil being now changed into the richest corn-fields, and waving with a luxuriant crop of masakuwa, while the fields of small millet (Pennisetum)

bleak and dreary hollows of black argillaceous

stood in stubble.

We encamped near the well Siiwa-buwa, or, as it was called by others,

Kabubiya, on the gentle slope of the rising ground toward

the north, from whence the busy scene round the well, of

cattle,

and sheep being watered in regular succession, presented an interesting and animated spectacle, more especially coming after and contrasted with the dull life of the capital. The well measured fifteen fathoms in depth, and the inhabitants were so on the alert for gain that they thought it right to sell us the precious element for watering our camels. My whole party were in the best spirits, cheerful and full of expectation of the novelties, both in human life and nature, that were to be disclosed in the unknown regions in the far west. In order to protect ourselves from the cold, which had so much affected us the preceding night, we set fire to the whole of a large decayed tree, which, with great exertion, we dragged from some distance close to our tent, and thus enjoyed a very moderate degree of temperature in our open encampment. asses, goats,

Saturday, November 27th. I gling villages,

its

now

entered

middle-sized mimosas, which afford

Koyam, with

its strag-

and its extensive forests of food to the numerous herds

well-cultivated fields,

A LE S SON. —GARAND A.

25

of camels constituting the wealth of this African tribe,

who

in for-

Bornu dynasty was driven away from its ancient capital Njimiye by the rival family of the BuLila,* led a nomadic life on the pasture-grounds of Kanem. Having thus traversed the district called Wodoma, we encamped about noon, mer

at

times, before the

a short distance from a well in the midst of the

forest,

belong-

deep,

The well was twenty -five fathoms and was frequented during the night by numerous herds of

cattle

from

ing to a district called Gagada.

different parts of the neighborhood.

While making the round in the night in order to see whether on the look-out, as a great part of the security of a traveler in these regions depends on the vigilance exercised by night, I succeeded in carrying away secretly the arms from all my people, even from the warlike Ferjani Arab, which caused great amusement and hubbub when they awoke in the morning, and enabled me to teach them a useful lesson of being more careful

my people were

for the future.

—

November 28th. Having taken an early breakfast an arrangement which, in this cold weather, when the appetite even of the European traveler in these regions is greatly sharpened, we found

—

very acceptable we pursued our journey, passing through the district of Garanda, with deep sandy soil, and rich in corn, cattle,

and camels.

A great proportion of the population

of Shuwa, or native Arabs,

who had immigrated from

consisted

the

east.

As we

proceeded on our march, the trees gradually assumed a richer character, plainly indicating that we were approaching a more favored district. There was the ngilisi, or ham£d, a tree very common over the whole eastern part of Negroland, with its

small leaves bursting forth from

now

its

branches; the karage,

appearing as a small tree of scanty growth, farther on spreading out with a large and luxuriant crown not cedand the korna, which, exing to the ard£b or tamarind-tree or gawo,

.

f

;

tending over the whole of these immense regions, is remarkable The underwood for bearing almost every where the same name.f was formed by the kalgo and gonda bush, which latter, however, did not seem to bear here that delicious fruit which has so fre-

quently served to refresh

my failing

energies during

my

marches

had been the night, the sun through other districts even now was very powerful during the midday hours, there be;

and, cold as

ing a difference of 40°. * See vol.

ii.,

p.

31.

t

See

vol.

ii.,

p. 489, note.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

26

We

encamped after a march of about thirteen milesj having by mistake exchanged our westerly direction for a southwesterly one, near the well called Kagza,* and were very hospitably and kindly treated

by a

patriotic old

man, a

citizen of the old capital or birni

when that splendid town was taken by the Fulbe or Fellata in the year 1809, had fled to Waday, and had lived of Ghasr-dggomo, who, there several years

This good

times.

among

man

the

Welad

Rashid, Waiting for better

described to me, with a deep feeling of sor-

command Mukhtar, and Hannima, when the

row, the taking of that large and wealthy town, under the

of the Fulbe chiefs Mala-Rida,

and his numerous army, fled through the eastern gate while the enemy was entering the western one, and the populous place was delivered up to all the horrors accompanying the sacking of a town. What with the pleasant character of the country and the friendly disposition of our host, I should have enjoyed my open encampment extremely if I had not been suffering all this time very severely from sore legs, ever since my return from Bagirmi, when I had to cross so many rivers, and was so frequently wet through, f Monday, November 29th. Pursuing still a southwesterly direction, our march led us through a district called Kddani, in regard to which the state of the cultivation of the ground (the g