Tempeh Production. The Book of Tempeh: Volume 2. A Craft and Technical Manual 0933332025, 0933332041

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION THE BOOK OF TEMPEH : OOLUME II A CRAFT AND TECHNICAL MANUAL

WILLIAM SHURTLEFF & AKIKO 80V6AGI Illustrated by Akiko Aoyagi

NEW-AGE

Q)

FOODS

To those who have pioneered in bringing tempeh

to the West:

The Farm Dr. Clifford W. Hesseltine Dr. Keith H. Steinkraus Dr. Hwa L. Wang

Foods

W .

New-Age Published P.O. Box 234

2

future tempeh craftspeople around the world.

by

And to

all

To the men and women who started the first tempeh shops in North America.

TEMPEH PRODUCTION.

by

Lafayette, CA 94549 in

Congress Catalog Card Number 79-89281

ISBN 0-933332-02-5 (P)

Tofu

by

designs from The Book

of

Book Design and Typography Akiko Aoyagi based First edition, May 1980 Cover illustration by Akiko Aoyagi

on

(C) by

0-933332-04-1

Beverly Stiskin

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reprint numerous illustrations from The Book

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Library Congress Cataloging Publication Data Shurtleff, William 1941– Tofu, Volume Soymilk Production: The Book Tofu Includes bibliographical references and index Soybean foods. Tempeh. Protein. Aoyagi, Akiko 1950—; joint author and illustrator Library

to

Row for permission Akiko Aoyagi.

William Shurtleff

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Harper

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©

Grateful acknowledgement Tempeh, copyright 1979

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Copyright 1980 William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, All rights reserved. Printed the United States America. All beings are welcomed share the propagation this book. Before reproducing any portions, however, except reviews, please obtain the case brief quotations embodied critical articles written permission from the publisher.

COntents

Preface . . . 7 1. How to Start a Tempeh Shop

2. Setting Up Shop .

.

. .

9

. . 20

The Community or Kitchen Shop . . . 23 The Fire Cooker Shop . . . 26 The Steam Cooker Plant . . . 30 The Modern Factory . . . 54 The Tropical Village Shop . . . 55 The Tropical Caldron Plant . . . 57

Ingredients . . . 60 . Principles of Tempeh Production . . . 68 . Making Tempeh in North America . . . 84 . Making Tempeh in Indonesia . . . 105 . Making Specialty Tempehs . . . 131 . Quantity Tempeh Recipes & the Soy Deli . . . Making Tempeh Starter . . . 140 .

i

. 133

Appendix A: Resources; People and Institutions

Connected with Tempeh Production . . . 163 Appendix B: Tempeh Shops in The West . . . 167

Appendix C. Measures, Weights & Equivalents . Bibliography . . . 169 New-Age Foods Study Center Index . . . 176

.

. . 175

.

. 168

ſ

Preface

º

empeh (pronounced TEM-pay) is a popular Indonesian fermented or cultured food con sisting of tender-cooked soybeans (or occa sionally grains, seeds, okara or soy pulp, or mixtures of these) bound together by a dense cottony mycelium of fragrant white Rhizopus mold into compact %-inch thick cakes or patties. Sold fresh, refrigerated, or frozen, these are usually sliced and fried until their surface is crisp and golden brown. Served this way, their flavor and texture are most often compared to those of southern fried chicken or fish sticks. Full-bodied and satisfying, tempeh is unique in its ability to serve as a delicious main course at meals in place of meat, chicken, or fish, and to become a key source of protein in vegetarian diets. Convenient in that it requires only a few minutes of cooking, tempeh is also remarkably versatile and can be used in hundreds recipes from Tempeh of delicious Western-style Burgers or Tempeh, Lettuce and Tomato Sandwiches to Tempeh Lasagna or Pizza. Fresh tempeh contains 19.5 percent protein, or over 50 percent more than hamburger. Tempeh protein is complete protein containing all of the essential amino acids and is the highest quality found in any soyfood as measured by the Protein Efficiency Ratio (PER). Perhaps most important, tempeh is the richest known source of vegetarian vitamin B-12; a typical 4-ounce serving will provide from 130 to 160 percent of the adult recommended daily allowance. Unlike most other protein foods, tempeh is entirely free of cholesterol and low in fats—especially saturated fats. Excellent for dieters, it contains only 157 calories per 100-gram (3%-ounce) serving. Thus tempeh can serve as a key protein source in the diets of health-minded, cost-con

scious people who love fine food. For hundreds, perhaps thousands of years tempeh has been a basic staple food in Java, Indonesia. Today there are over 41,000 shops that make tempeh in Java, most of them small cottage industries. They serve as a valuable model for tempeh production in tropical Third World countries. A growing number of people are now working to bring tempeh to North America. Already great advances have been made in developing new equip ment and methods that are suitable for producing tempeh in cold-to-temperate climates and in countries where labor costs are high. Western researchers and tempeh makers have pioneered in the following important developments: dry dehulling techniques preceded by drying or preheating to facilitate hull removal and followed by dry aspiration hull separation; vinegar acidification to lower the soybeans' pH; rapid using a centrifuge and thorough dewatering or hydraulic press; determination of the essential tempeh mold species and development of pure- or mixed culture starters grown on rice; isolation of the bacterium responsible for producing tempeh's vitamin B-12; utilization of polyethylene bags or trays as fermentation containers; grain tempehs and grain & soy tempehs; Western-style tempeh recipes (such as tempeh burgers or sloppy joe tempeh) well suited for Many tempeh commercial production. Indonesian makers and researchers would be most surprised to see these exciting developments and larger Indonesian producers could probably learn much from them. The production of tempeh requires the same care and basic skills needed to make any fermented food, but it is no more difficult to produce than yogurt. Tempeh has

8

PREFACE

book could never have been written. to:

industries—this

Cynthia Thus we would like to give deepest thanks Bates, Paul Beeson, Michael Cohen, Steve Fiering, John and Charlotte Gabriel, Kurt Getman, Joan Harriman, Louis Headrick, Benjamin Hills, Tim and Carol Ann Huang, Henoch Khoe, Randy Kohler, Earl Lepper, Luke Lukoskie, Alexander Lyon, Ben O'Loughlin, Chris O'Riley, Russ Pals, Gale Randall, Brian Schaefer, Andy Schecter, Ed Tirta, Robert and Kay Walker, Don Wilson, and Chris Yorsten.

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Several other soycrafters and friends have also made valuable contributions this book: Greg Weaver and Kathy Iselin Rochester, soy deli The Tofu Shop, York; Larry Needleman, president New Bean Machines Inc.; Melanie Araneta, fine Philippine soyfoods cook; and George Strayer, president Agricultural Exports, Inc. We would also like once again thank the American tempeh researchers Dr. Clifford W. Hessletine, Dr. Steinkraus, and Dr. H.L. Wang, for their Keith ongoing help, and thank the many Indonesian tempeh researcers and producers listed The Book Tempeh. Finally we would like give special thanks our editors and friends John Shiflett and Luke Lukoskie, whose patience and skill have substantially enriched this work. to

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been intensively studied by food scientists and nutritionists, and is the subject of over 190 scientific journal articles, as listed in the Bibliography of the professional edition of our Book of Tempeh. There is now a need to develop models for larger scale, more mechanized tempeh plants, which will allow the production of more tempeh at lower costs in industrialized countries. Our work with tempeh began in March of 1975. Since then we have traveled extensively in Indonesia studying tempeh production and have visited and studied almost every commercial tempeh shop in North America. Nevertheless, we appreciate fully that the tempeh industry in the West is in its infancy and that great changes in production methods, equipment, and marketing techniques will certainly take place in the coming years. These changes will, to some extent, obsolete various parts of this book. Yet we have decided to publish the book now, hoping that it will be useful in helping people to start shops and in stimulating further research, experimentation, and creativity. Many of the first generation of North American tempeh makers have played an important part in the preparation of this book; without their willingness to share production methods and other valuable informa tion with us—information that would have been considered secret and proprietary in most other

l HOW to Start

a Tempeh Shop if

you enjoy the work and your interest withstands the test time. Next, you might move up and master the community scale method, and perhaps start selling your tempeh locally. possible visit existing tempeh shops, As soon preferably those outside your market area (an updated list available from New-Age Foods Study Center Soycrafters Association North America; SANA); please include $1.00 and stamped self-addressed envelope. Try you can about what learn like actually work shop, especially shop and run similar the type you wish start. One good way obtain practical experience via The Soycrafters Apprenticeship Program, on-the-job training pro gram (see the back this book), that teaches you both business and craftsmanship skills; another way find employment one more shops. addition this book, there are two others that are important study you begin set up shop. The Book of Tempeh (professional clothbound edition), which was written especially for people such those starting commercial tempeh shops, has numerous Appendixes not found the regular edition the tempeh book. Of particular importance you the lengthy Appendix The Microbiology and Chemistry Tempeh Fermentation. The second essential book Soymilk Production, which contains detailed Tofu starting soyfoods information on many aspects business, sanitation, key equipment such boilers, and the like that will be referred this book but, for brevity, will not repeated. the sake keep To abreast the latest research publications tempeh and tempeh production, consult the Food Technology Abstracts (look under soybean Science

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generally easiest relatively learn things small scale, where the consequences mistakes are less serious. Before you even think about starting business, master the process for homemade tempeh;

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Getting Started: First Steps the process starting and running tempeh shop you will have become proficient two entirely different sets skills: food production and business management. While the your interest initially, don't former may the focus forget that the latter important your least success and, for most people, much more difficult master. Many craftsmen try make their daily work spiritual practice, Right Livelihood and its source own reward.

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mid 1980s. The rising cost meats and interest cholesterol-free meatlike products and vegetarian diets will spur demand for tempeh. Many the larger tofu shops and soy dairies are adding the process tempeh their product line.

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Industry Status and Trends: The production of tempeh in North America is an industry with great potential that is still in infancy. The number shops increased from 22 between 1977 and 1980 and sales steady growth. The largest shops, still are showing 5,000 pounds tempeh rather small, produce 1,000 per month. the industry follows the pattern the tofu and soymilk industry, there will probably more than one hundred tempeh shops North America the

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he soyfoods revolution has started in North America. There is an increasing interest in and demand for good quality, natural soy foods, such as tempeh.

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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Choosing the Legal Forms Ownership: Most small businesses are owned one three ways: sole proprietorship (with without employees),

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Determining the Basic Type Shop: One the most important decisions you will have make concerns the begin operating. There are scale which you wish shops suited for temperate least four basic types climate developed countries and two types suited for tropical climate less developed countries shown Table 1.1. The one most suited for you and your area will depend primarily on four factors: your market potential, the amount capital you have available, the type work and craftsmanship you prefer, and the larger goals you have set for your life. given careful One additional factor should also thought. much easier and less expensive start tempeh shop already existing tofu added shop soy dairy started together with such soyfoods plant. list such plants available

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large and growing interest America where there vegetarian diets natural and/or Indonesian foods (as university town), where there are competing tempeh shops, and where you are near potential Berkeley, Barbara, distributor. Cities such Santa Los Angeles, San Diego, Portland, Corvallis, Denver, Minneapolis, St. Lawrence, St. Louis, New York, and Miami are now each fertile ground. An accurate market survey the greatest importance helping you estimate the necessary your shop, the volume size business you can expect when you open, your growth potential, and your short and long-term capital needs. Too low estimate may cause you outgrow your shop soon after opens; too high estimate may leave you with costly unused production capacity. To make market survey, first check with potential customers, listed here approximate order importance: natural and health food stores and restaurants, food co-ops, supermarkets and chain stores, colleges and universities (many have natural vegetarian dining hall), Indonesian foods and Oriental food markets and restaurants, large communi ties, hospitals, and local schools. Next talk potential distributors and get estimates how much they could outlying areas. From each potential customer try sell get written statement how much they think they buy initially and after one year; such would want clarify your market potential statement will help you and, perhaps, get loans. Finally try make your own estimate the market potential after two three years. a

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Small Business Your Own. We also consultants for beginning soyfood companies. you start spending any money for your As soon shop, get ledger and keep careful records. Most develop businesses will want business plan prospectus, written and graphic presentation what you intend way presenting yourself and do. your concept advisers, bankers, and financial potential partners helps you investors. Above all, clarify your plans, decisions, and policies. Most people who start tempeh shop (or any other small business) stress that the first year involves lot hard work with few financial returns. You may have work for least months without pay just setting up the business before production even starts. And many years before making businesses plan run for profit. Thus you will need perseverance and commit carry you ment plus some personal financial reserves through this period. Owners generally pay themselves salary on the books during this time but do not draw out the money until the business becomes profitable. serve

Choosing Good Location Area and Estimating the part Market Potential: The ideal location North

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Managing

partnership, corporation. Partnerships and corporations may cooperatively collectively man aged. As each form has advantages and disadvan tages, consider carefully which best suits your purpose and needs for capital.

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products) found in most libraries. The most useful scientific journals that carry or have carried articles on tempeh are, in order of importance: Journal of Food Science, Journal of Nutrition, Cereal Chemistry, Cereal Science Today, Developments in Industrial Microbi ology, Food Technology, and Mycologia. Addresses of important food science, technology, and trade periodi cals are given in Appendix A. Many of the trade periodicals are available free of charge to food producers. AVI and Academic Press regularly publish outstanding books on aspects food microbiology and production. For their free catalogs write: AVI Publishing Co., P.O. Box 831, Westport, CT 06880. Or Academic Press, 111 Fifth Ave., New York, NY good list 10003. books on starting and managing your own business given Chapter Tofu and Soymilk Production. For more information about the natural, low-tech soyfoods industry and publication Soyfoods, contact the Soycrafters Association North America, whose address listed our New-Age Foods Study Center's Catalog. possible, try good financial As early find only and/or business adviser, even friend relative with successful business background. Even small business will benefit immensely from the counsel qualified attorney, banker, and accountant; employed judiciously, they can pay for their services many times over. Most larger banks have set brochures small-business management. The Bank particularly good series entitled Small America has Reporter. Business The U.S. government Small Business Administration has its excellent Starting and

from our Center from SANA). First, the building requirements for both types are similar and many

Shops (1980 Data)

75-400 500-2000

30-450

53-790

7500-15,000

300-2000

525-3500

35,000-150,000

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community pounds kitchen shop, shop, pounds fire cooker 150 steam cooker plant, pounds tropical village shop, and 135 pounds tropical caldron plant. plant the shop soy dairy, the minimums connected with tofu shop shop are the same the minimums for each type many smaller tempeh listed Table 1.1. The owners shops support North America have found that family, they must run the shop part time job while holding another primary paying job the same time. Small shops tend labor intensive, requiring harder physical work and more skilled craftsmanship; larger plants require more mechanical skills and, course, more capital. As the scale production increases, labor costs and production costs generally proportion decrease total costs. Community The Kitchen Shop, which may be noncommercially/coopera run either commercially tively, often set up the revamped kitchen private home, community, co-op, natural food store restaurant, small tofu shop, soy dairy, bakery. The simplest and least expensive type establish, dry soybeans per day uses 20 pounds yield pounds tempeh, which used directly sold fresh frozen the polyethylene bags which incubated. The beans are cooked 5-to-10-gallon pot set over large stove, hot-water burner, candy heater stove burner. To dehull, the dry) beans are run through loosely set (wet perforated seam (Corona) hand mill ($25), packaged Minigrip; other sealing bags (such Ziploc pans trays can also containers such bread cake be used) and incubated home incubator or By second-hand (junked, nonworking) refrigerator. improvising equipment, community shops have gotten into operation for less than $100. The Fire Cooker Shop excellent for beginning craftspeople with limited resources who like small-is beautiful technology and are willing work hard for relatively low wages. dry uses 20 100 pounds soybeans per day yield tempeh. 175 pounds The beans are dehulled with the handmill described above, but run on bicycle power geared-down with second-hand washing machine motor; hand-turned tofu-shop stone mill, motor-driven burr mill, stone mill also work well. The beans are cooked to

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pieces of equipment and ingredients used for tofu and soymilk production can also be used to make tempeh, especially the soaking tanks, mill (for dehulling), the centrifuge (for cooker and heat source, the press drain-drying), the curding barrel (for mixing the inoculum), the packager packaged the tempeh plastic tofu tubs), and the walk-in cooler. Soybeans for purchased together the various soyfoods can bulk. pressure cooker plant making tofu can add only about steam-cooker tempeh plant for total $20,000 $2,500, whereas would take $9,000 start steam cooker tempeh plant independently. The main additional equipment needed incubation room and Second, freezers. the overhead expenses (including rent, insurance, etc.) and the physical plant can be shared by both products. Third, the established distribution, marketing, and advertising channels for readily used for tempeh. Fourth, tempeh tofu can still new and relatively unknown food. Its gradual growth from partially small volume item can supported business, help keep the tofu which can the tempeh price down during the introductory stage. soymilk plant can And fifth, the okara from the tofu soy tempeh. used make okara tempeh okara Regardless shop, the type costs less for the equipment needed start tempeh shop than start soy dairy. tofu shop getting started shown The total cost Table 1.1 includes, addition the equipment cost, leasehold improvements (alterations the building, such plumbing, wiring, and sanitation and safety require ments, which may exceed equipment costs and are often not recoverable after you leave), startup raw materials, pre-operation rent, delivery vehicle, etc. The range equipment and costs depends the type your leasehold improvements. Production workers include cleanup people but not delivery people. shift working hours. Total floor space includes the actual production and cleanup area, refrigeration and office space, plus storage for soybeans, other raw materials, packaging, and new equipment. One pound 0.454 kg square foot and 0.0929 square meters (see Appendix Measures, Weights Equivalents). tempeh What the minimum daily output required sustain viable commercial operation that soy dairy? Roughly not connected with tofu shop

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Modern Factory Tropical Village Shop Tropical Caldron Plant

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Type

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of Tempeh

Table 1.1 Basic Types

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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Running Retail Outlet, Soy Deli, Restaurant: Centrally located tempeh shops may want retail their products directly from the shop give much higher profit margin, reduce the effort put into distribution, and encourage people come and see their shop. Even soy deli, more exciting the new concept snack light lunch restaurant, operated your bar nearby, that offers variety delicious, storefront ready eat foods made from tempeh (and tofu and soymilk you wish); foods such tempeh burgers, tempeh, lettuce tomato sandwiches, sloppy joe tempeh, tempeh stroganoff, tempeh salads and soups, tempeh lasagne, and the like. Recipes for many Chapter soy these preparations are given deli—and lesser extent retail outlet—might opened help introduce tempeh order (1) the public large, which turn would increase sales through other outlets; (2) allow people taste how delicious good tempeh can be—the first introduction important—and how relatively inexpensive Since tempeh, with its cottony white mycelium, looks ready-to quite unusual most Americans, selling eat form totally transforms the appearance, making look (and taste) like chicken fish sticks; (3) generate addtional income; (4) help the shop get feedback and new ideas from customers about the tempeh and tempeh recipes; (5) serve test provide market for new recipes and products; and (6) center for educational activities. Soy delis are now being run very successfully (and profitably)

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The Steam Cooker Plant, the type probably most suited for sustained commercial operation in North America, uses 30 to 450 pounds of dry soybeans per day to yield 53 to 790 pounds of fresh tempeh. The output is large enough to utilize wide distribution channels and allow relatively small markups at high volume; labor and production costs are relatively low, and startup especially costs are not excessive, when used equipment is obtained and/or the plant is integrated with a tofu shop or soy dairy. The soybeans are wet or dry dehulled in a mill (dry beans may be size graded and preheated), cooked in a 20-to-80-gallon steam jacketed kettle (either self-contained or with steam from a 7-to-15-horsepower boiler), dewatered in a centrifuge or hydraulic press, and incubated in polyethylene bags or trays in an incubation room. The tempeh is then frozen, refrigerated, or dehydrated prior to distribution. Equipment costs are less than $2,500 if the plant is integrated into an existing tofu shop or soy dairy and used equipment is obtained. Otherwise the equipment cost is $7,500 to $15,000 and the total cost $9,000 to $20,000, depending on the building used and the strictness of the health inspector. Should an international agency (such as UNESCO, AID, etc.) want to build a plant of this type for centralized production of tempeh in a less developed country, it would be possible to incorporate many of the low-cost features of the traditional Indonesian shop (see Chapter 6) which would greatly lower the costs and use largely local equipment. The Modern Factory, run by a partially mechan ized and continuous process, is still on the drawing boards. If it were the size of the largest traditional shops in Indonesia, it would use about 1,000 pounds of dry soybeans per day to yield 1,750 pounds of tempeh; yet it may be several years before a market this large can be developed in America. Several models suited for North America that could process 1,000 pounds of dry soybeans a day to make 1,750 pounds of tempeh are described in detail in Chapter 2. The main pieces of equipment required are a size grader (optional), dryer or heater, dry dehuller, blower or aspirator, steam jacketed kettle, centrifuge, mixer, filler for polyethy lene bags or tubs, sealer (and perforator), rolling racks room, labeler, bulk with trays, large incubation packager, and freezer. The basic equipment would probably cost from $35,000 to $150,000 assuming that some pieces were obtained used, and the total cost of getting into production might average $75,000. The Tropical Village Shop, which constitutes more tempeh shops Indonesia, than 99 percent of

requires expensive mechanized equipment, employs average workers, and uses average pounds dry soybeans per day yield pounds tempeh. The soybeans are dehulled underfoot bamboo baskets, cooked cutoff steel drum, and incubated room temperature either banana leaf wrappers polyethylene bags. The total cost with equipment $50 $250. The Tropical Caldron Plant, which constitutes less than percent Indonesian tempeh shops, employs average pounds workers more and uses dry soybeans per day produce 137 pounds tempeh. The largest known shops, which there are but handful, employ from workers, use 600 1,000 pounds dry soybeans per day, and produce 1,000 1,750 pounds fresh tempeh. The beans are dehulled either underfoot bamboo baskets with wet stone-mill dehuller, the hulls are separated manual flotation, the beans are cooked cutoff steel drums or caldrons, cooled on large bamboo trays, inoculated with starter grown the shop on hibiscus leaves, and polyethylene bags, plastic-lined wooden incubated trays, banana leaf wrappers room temperature. $2,000. The Total equipment costs range from $700 equipment for this and the previous shop are described Chapter Chapter and illustrated and Dehuller-Separators and Modern Indonesian Tempeh Pilot Plant.

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20-to-40 gallon metal pot or caldron over a burner or a wood fire. The equipment resembles that of both the community shop and the steam cooker plant; appropri ate incubators are described below and in Chapter 2. A traditional caldron tofu shop plus an incubator makes an excellent traditional caldron tempeh shop with very little additional investment. In general, total equipment costs will run from $500 to $2,000.

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Sanitation, and Standards: As you soon as have decided to start a tempeh shop, contact you nearest local health inspector (listed in the phone book under your city or county, Health Services, Food Inspection). Tell him about your products, show him our books, find out specifically what he will require of you, and ask for a copy of the regulations regarding production and sale of food products issued by the State Department of Health. It is very important to develop a good relationship with your health inspector. He can be of real help to you as you set up your building and equipment and learn to produce safe and healthful foods with a long storage life. Some inspectors will simply ask that you keep your shop neat and sanitary and follow minimal common-sense rules; others may require extensive improvements on your home or shop building to meet strict sanitary standards, conduct periodic bacterial counts, etc. Good sanitation takes a

Obtaining Equipment and Ingredients: There presently single source new used tempeh equipment North America. Therefore, after reading Chapter this book, most people starting tempeh shops will their own equipment search, usually looking for good quality, used equipment. Ingenuity, experimentation, and patient searching can save shop time and money this step. To find used equipment: attend auctions for equipment from restaurants, grocery stores, butcher shops, other food processing operations (look under auctioneer the Yellow Pages your phone directory, watch for equipment auctions trade periodicals, contact local auctioneer and ask have your name put the mailing list for food equipment auctions); contact restaurants dairies and their respective used equipment supply houses (look Supplies under Restaurant Equipment the Yellow Pages); read classified ads food industry trade peri odicals such Processed Prepared Foods, Ice Cream Dairy Field, etc.; visit local scrap iron and metal dealers junk yards, where they will generally sell you equipment the weight metal visit large food junk processing factories, many which will have yard behind the plant. Some soyfood producers have to

Health Inspectors,

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Making Tempeh with Other Fermented Foods: We are often asked if it is possible to produce tempeh in the same shop and incubation room with other fermented soyfoods such as soymilk yogurt and miso. Yes, it is possible and there are generally no problems. Microbiological textbooks often mention that Rhizopus is a contaminant that “gets into everything.” The species they are referring to, however, is Rhizopus nigricans, the so-called “bread mold;” the spores of R. oligosporus are moist and tend to stick together, so that they cause little trouble with contamination. Likewise, since the Aspergillus mold of miso grows quite slowly, and the bacterial yogurt cultures are immersed in a liquid and are incubated at a higher temperature, neither will bother or be bothered by the tempeh. All the foods may be produced in the same shop but they should not be inoculated at the same time, and they should not be inoculated or removed from their incubation containers in the incubation room. For best results, the shelves and walls of the incubation room should be wiped off occasionally with a chlorine (bleach or Clorox) or alcohol solution and/or the room should have steam blown into it for a few minutes to precipitate out airborne microorganisms; but neither of these precautions is absolutely necessary.

space for storage soybeans, packaging, refrigeration, offices, and future expansion. You will probably have locate area zoned for light industrial food processing (like bakery). Be sure explore the possibility joint tenancy with existing tofu shop soy dairy. you plan low-rent district may best your products. wholesale most The ideal building has, approximate order importance, (sealed epoxy) concrete floor with good drainage, high ceiling, freezer, refrigerated walk-in other such insulated room that could serve incubation room, good ventilation, good shipping facilities, smooth walls, 3-phase 220-volt current, good water, and plenty windows. Remember that major leasehold improve ments (physical changes) cost money and take time. vacant dairy often makes excellent building and many small ones go out business regularly. sympathetic landlord also very important. Before you vacant; talk decide rent find out why the building the former tenant and ask him why moved. Have your local the building examined and cleared building, fire, and health inspectors. Find out exactly bring what improvements will have made code and find out which of these the landlord expected building. make. Start early look for you you want, proceed cautiously When find the one before signing the lease. You may want take out “option lease” secure the building temporarily. to

Making Various Types of Tempeh: Most shops start making soy tempeh, okara tempeh, and/or soy & okara tempeh. If there is a tofu shop nearby, plenty of okara will be available at little or no cost. After you master the basic soy tempeh process, you might want to experiment with wheat & soy tempeh, rice & soy tempeh, peanut (or peanut & soy) tempeh, millet (or millet & soy) tempeh, or whole-wheat-noodle tempeh. We have found that all of these are easy to make and very tasty.

Finding Suitable Building and Location: Once you shop you want, have decided the basic size and type you are ready building. Calculate the look for approximate square footage you will need; include

in of

magazine has a long feature story on the Soy Deli.

little time and money—but it's well worth

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Rochester, New York, Boulder, Colorado, and Ann Arbor, Michigan. The summer 1979 issue of Soycraft

SHOP

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Permits and Licenses: You may need any the following: fictitious name permit, sellers permit resale license, local business license, and permits from you hire the local building and health inspector. employees, you will need Employer Federal Identification Number.

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Distribution: Small tempeh shops may retail some their tempeh from the shop and deliver the rest daily nearby food stores, restaurants, etc. Small medium buy several insulated sized shops generally make dry ice, coolers (cooled with regular with small cooler that plugs into the cigarette lighter the vehicle) and larger shops may buy insulated truck van; they deliver their product times week 100 accounts over radius 50 150 miles. The usually $10 minimum order $20 per store. This system involves you very complex bookkeeping and billing system. Having your product distributed distributor with frozen delivery capacity allows you reach much larger market, expand production, and simplify your bookkeeping, but the price the tempeh the customer may be higher and your profit margin you are located near large tofu shop soy lower. dairy, explore the possibility their distributing your tempeh helping you use their channels. One the most important decisions you have package and preserve your tempeh. make how major effect determining This decision will have Virtually the possible channels distribution. distributors could carry dried freeze-dried tempeh, few with refrigerated delivery vehicles could carry refrigerated fresh, deep-fried, ready-to-eat tempeh, and relatively few could carry frozen tempeh. Be sure match your packaging and preservation techniques with your desired distribution system. a

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Packaging, Storage Life, and Dating: Tempeh may automatically, bag, be packaged either manually tub, (film leaf) wrapper. For details on the various methods, see Chapter Most producers perforated seam-sealing incubate their tempeh or

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Choosing good name should Business Name: appeal wide clientele, tell something about your product, and not limit your future. Berkeley Soyfoods Tucson Tempeh Tofu are good names. Most small companies use their company name brand name.

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tory, yourself. Your choice make starter sources very important. Making your own starter can (potentially) save you money and give you lot supply fresh, high-potency product. constant your starter high quality, However not can your have serious negative effects the quality tempeh and, times, can spoil entire batches, causing you major losses. For more details, see Starters Ingredients Chapter Instructions for making your Chapter own starter are given

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found that if they buy with cash in hand from the maintenance man or junkyard attendant they can get remarkably low prices—probably because he then pockets the money; contact SANA and look for used equipment ads in Soyfoods magazine; consult your health inspector, who is often a good source of information on used food processing equipment; check surplus or out the General Services Administration Army-Navy surplus dealers, especially those that carry equipment taken out of old ships' galleys; contact large national companies specializing in used equipment such as Aaron Equipment Co., 9301 W. Bernile St., Schiller Park, IL 60176. Tel. 312-678-1500. Or Perry Equipment Corp., TR-Mt. Laurel Rd., Hainesport, NJ 08036. Tel. 609-267-1600. If possible, try to get a guarantee on used or rebuilt equipment. For more details on sources of refrigeration equipment, see Freezers at The Steam Cooker Plant in Chapter 2; some commercial refrigeration equipment distributors carry used equipment. Luke Lukoskie of Island Spring, who has been very successful in obtaining used equipment for tempeh production at low cost, gives the following advice. “The key to the used equipment is in making a good buy. I try to pay 10 percent of the new retail price of the equipment. Buying in that range requires two things. First, some mechanical ability in working out bugs, since there are more bugs in used equipment, although not necessarily more breakdowns. Because the piece of equipment may not have been designed for you must the use to which you intend to put requires that your junk man likes innovative. Second, you. These men spend their lives studying lists available buys. And, believe me, whatever you want locating available. It's just matter Let these people know what you are doing and what you need, then stop and visit them every couple weeks.” Another way save money on equipment make yourself have made for you. Many producers make their own incubators incubation rooms, and some make their own walk-in cooler or freezer boxes. you are looking for new equipment (or ingredients) very helpful guidebook the Thomas Grocery Register, Volume Buyers Guide. This 550-page tome, published yearly and available most libraries, equipment and raw materials lists producers (soybeans, vinegar, oil, etc.) arranged three extensive indexes: products and services, brand names, and company names. Other good sources information about new equipment are the annual Manufacturers' Guide published by Processed Pre pared Food, the Buyer's Guide section the annual Dairy Industries Catalog, and Foodservice Equipment Specialist magazine. soybeans, starter, and other ingredients Sources Appendix are listed There are three ways obtain starter: buy from Farm Foods other commercial sources, develop local reliable source college such commercial microbiology labora

Fig.

1.1 Tempeh Labels

ISLAND SPRING SOY BEAN ºr gradio.cs: orga-callr grow" sorbears, $or pulp, Rnizopus of gosporus. (mold inoculanc)

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INGREDIENTS: ORGANIC SOY DEANS, WATER. APPLE CIDER VINEGAR. RHIZOPUS OLIGOSPORUS

To Serve:Cut coke into 4. %" slices,fry or broil ond serve with soy souce in Sondwiches or odd to soups ond souces.Cooked Tempeh moy be used in ploce of meat in mony dishes. Nutritionol Informotion per 4 oz. serving: Contoins two servings: 170 Colories. 17 gm Pro tein, 13 gm Corbohy. drofes, Fot, 0 gm Sodium, 1655 mg Potos. sium.

43.

Percentooe of U.S.Recom mended Doily Allowonce (U.S. RDA) Protein 40%: Vit. A 8%: Vit. C 0%. Thio mine 8%: Riboflovin 35%: Niocin 15%:Colcium 10%: Iron 15%: Vit. D-12 60%. Keep frozen to preserve freshness. Block spores on surfoce ore normol ond do not indicote spoiloge.

=

NETWEIGHT: 8 OZ. (%lb.) 227 GRAMS.

ISLAND SPRING INC. PODOX 747, VASHON, WA. 96070

(Ziploc, Minigrip, etc.) or heat-sealed polyethylene bag, package it in a similar nonperforated, labeled bag, and sell it frozen or refrigerated. Tempeh that is not frozen or preblanched, like many cheeses, can also be wrapped in transparent food-grade films such as Saran, Pliofilm, Parakote, or cellophane. The later, made from wood cellulose rather than from petrochemicals, allows carbon dioxide to go out but does not allow air to enter. It might also be possible to vacuum-pack tempeh, although the equipment is quite expensive. If tempeh is refrigerated (but not frozen) it should be kept at below 4°C (40°F), where the storage life is 2 to 3 weeks if the tempeh is steam blanched prior to refrigeration and 3 to 5 days if it is not blanched. The disadvantage of not freezing is the shorter shelf life, but important advantages are that refrigerated foods turn over roughly three times as fast as frozen foods, use less refrigeration energy, may have a lower markup, and generally have a better texture. Freezing and thawing tempeh weakens the mycelium slightly. Moreover some people interested in natural foods have been taught/conditioned to avoid frozen foods. Refrigerated tempeh should bear a useful date on the label. This could be the “pack date,” the “shelf date,” the “quality date,” or the “spoil date.” Some products use the simpler terminology “sell by” or “use by,” followed by the appropriate date. In 1979, 60 percent of the tempeh in America was sold in 8-ounce cakes, 30 percent in 10-to-12-ounce cakes, and 10 percent in 16-ounce cakes. The smaller size is better for introducing new customers to your product; the larger size is more economical. Most tempeh comes in 3/4-inch-thick cakes but some comes in 2-inch-diameter sausage shapes.

It is worthwhile to give some serious study to packaging. One good book is Food Packaging by R.C. Griffin (Avi, 1970); it is a guide for the supplier, processor, and distributor. An excellent trade maga zine, free to most producers, is Packaging Digest (see Appendix A). Packaging Regulations by Stan Sacharow (Avi, 1979) can help you to understand this complex but important area. Product Name, Package Design, and Label: We encourage you to use the standard product names as given in our Book of Tempeh; soy tempeh, wheat & soy tempeh, okara tempeh, etc. It is very important to develop an attractive, informative, and legal label for your tempeh. Professional help from a good artist and/or designer is generally a good investment. The design of a food product label is governed by many detailed laws as described in the Federal Fair Packaging and Labeling Act; copies are available from Washington, the Federal Trade Commission, DC (FDA, the 20580. The Food and Drug Administration agency in charge of labeling, part of the U.S. Department Health, Education, of and Welfare) requires that the information panel of any product making nutritional claims contain “full nutritional labeling,” the listing of serving size and nutrient composition that now appears on many nutritious foods. We suggest that you have a composition-of ingredients analysis done by a certified laboratory and ask them to measure vitamin B-12 content as well. Ingredients must be listed in the order of predomi nance; you may write either “Rhizopus oligosporus mold spores” or “tempeh culture.” The name of the producer and the net weight must be stated. A note on

HOW TO START A SHOP

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PATTYCARES [Wheatsoy) -High in Protein -a whole natural Food -no Cholesterol USDA LICENSED Soybeans, Ingredients whole wheat. Rhizopus Cigosporous, wheat Flour, Rice.

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8 OZ.

NET WT.

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the label concerning sporulation might read: “Dark gray or black spots on the tempeh surface are normal, harmless sporulation and can be beneficial to the flavor and quality.” It is a good idea to include several recipes or at least serving suggestions somewhere on the package. You might want to refer interested customers to our book with a line: “For recipes and detailed information, see The Book of Tempeh." Small companies generally use pressure sensitive labels; with FDA-approved food grade glue over perforations; be sure they are resistant to moisture and freezing. Larger companies save money by using labels preprinted on the package. A panel or label on the back gives much more space for recipes and nutritional information. Tempeh Yields and Production Costs: Most commer cial producers get 1.75 pounds of tempeh from each 1 pound of dry soybeans. In 1980 the total cost of producing one pound of tempeh in a medium sized shop was $0.70 to $0.90. Island Spring, which makes tempeh together with tofu and soymilk, produces their own starter, and packages the tempeh in 8-ounce quantities

16

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

*

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TEMPEH

$1.49

Ingredients: Soy Beans,CiderVinegar, Rhizopus Oligosporus CultureandWater Ingredients: Soya,vinaigredecidre, Oligosporus culturedeRhizopus eteau. KeepFrozen— Shouldbecooked withina dayortwoafterthawing. Gardecongelès, sile contenudégèle, fairecuiredansonoudeuxjours.

PRODUCEDBY TEMPEHENTERPRISES LIMITED R.R.3, Group3, Box7 PortPerry,Ont.LOB1NO(416)985-3158 Serving Suggestions Fryinbutter grated oroil,saltandserve. (with cheese andonions maple syrup mahamburger iſdesired) orserve with tutter and ofon withacream sauce bunwithlettuce andmayo ºeorasacutlet ofc e tryandserve Slice thinstrips, withgarlic saltoryour favorite dip.Cinto rumble andbake ºnoven asTempen andricecasserole etc. Note: grey spots appearing Tempeh Dark o rblack on takes i snormal sporukation º isbeneficial t culture ofthe and totheflavour andquality

in tofu tubs, calculates that each 8-ounce packet cost $0.44 to produce (October, 1979). Of the total costs, raw materials were 18.2 percent, packaging and labeling was 25.1 percent, labor was 34.9 percent, energy (including cooker, incubator, and freezer) was 9.3 percent, and overhead (including administrative, rent, equipment maintenance, phone, insurance, delivery, etc.) was 12.5 percent. Of the 8 cents raw material cost, 6 cents was for soybeans, 1.5 cents for starter made in the shop, and 0.25 cents each for vinegar and water. Of the 11 cents packaging cost, 5.5 cents was for the polyethylene tub and film seal, 2.5 cents for the label, and 3 cents for the cardboard carton in which the tubs were bulk packed. Island Spring wholesaled this 8-ounce package of tempeh, delivered to retailers, for $0.55. It retailed for $0.89. If Island Spring had used starter purchased from Farm Foods, the starter would have cost 5.1 cents (versus 1.5 cents) per 8-ounce package of tempeh. Preprinted seam-sealing bags would have cost about 10.7 cents (versus 11 cents including the carton), but the labor cost would have increased slightly. If the shop

Tempeh Labels

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California Soyfoods Berkeley, Ca94608

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Insurance: As food producer, you are responsible your product. for the safety someone should get sick hurt from eating your tempeh and you were fault, you could sued. Thus, all food processors carry “product liability insurance.” Quite expensive, should be purchased from specialist. Most businesses will have general liability, basic fire, vandalism, and carry extended coverage. Some states require you compensation injuries workman's insurance cover employees. You may also need boiler insurance and automobile or truck insurance. Consult several local insurance agents for prices and terms. Buy with caution.

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Developing Financial Projections and Compiling Business Plan: Developing financial projections one

HOW TO START

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One important concept concerning the price tempeh. Although pound for pound, tempeh appears actually relatively be relatively expensive, January 1980, inexpensive source useable protein. typical tempeh retailing pound was less $1.68 expensive per gram useable protein than chicken, bread, cheese, yogurt, or, course, steak. Conversion given page data The Book of Tempeh. Moreover tempeh provides meatlike texture and flavor with cholesterol and very little saturated fats.

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Estimating Startup Costs: How much money will you get your business started and keep support itself? Much starts the supply above discussion has been intended information that will enable you answer this critical question. Now you must translate your plans into some firm dollar figures. Remember that half new businesses that fail are victims insufficient startup capital. Calculate your opening costs and your operating costs for get least the first months estimate how much capital you will need from the outset. Don't forget include your own living expenses. you are not experienced estimating costs, increase you estimate 100 percent! need initially running until

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Personnel and Wages: Hiring and training employ big investment time, money and ees represents personal energy; choose each employee partner with great care. give employees more order genuine participation sense the business, you may develop cooperative ownership profit sharing wish plans.

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Determining Distributor, Wholesale, and Retail Prices: Three factors must be considered in pricing your product: (1) the prices of your competitors; (2) your anticipated total cost per unit of product; and (3) your desired profit margin. In January 1980 the average wholesale price of soy tempeh in North America was the equivalent of $1.10 a pound; the average retail price was $1.68 a pound (range, $1.22 to $1.98 a pound; it was $0.23 a pound in Indonesia). The average weight per packet in North America was 9.6 ounces. Heavier packets tended to retail for less per ounce than lighter packets. If the price of your tempeh is too high, your business will not grow and you will never be able to benefit from the economies of volume production. Yet if your price is too low, you will not be able to generate enough profit to meet your payroll and personal needs, nor to expand your business. A natural food store that tempeh for $1.68 would, retailed the average, buy the tempeh wholesale for $1.19 (29% margin) and distributor would buy for $0.91 (23%% margin). For margins more details on and markups, see Tofu Soymilk Production. Note that retail price and (R—W)+R; Markup wholesale price: Margin

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Timing, Signing the Lease, and Preparing for Opening: These steps are the same for soyfoods businesses; details are given Soymilk Tofu you are Production. As soon business please notify that we can list your shop the next edition Tempeh. The Book

or

want to get equity financing by selling portions of ownership in the business for capital that is not repaid, or debt financing by taking out a loan that is repaid with interest. Talk first to friends or relatives about a loan. Next talk to a banker, but remember that most banks are very reluctant to make loans to start small businesses unless they know the owner well and are convinced that he or she has experience, a personal credit record, and a good product. For more details on raising capital, see Tofu & Soymilk Production.

at

Raising Capital/Financing: By now you should know how much capital you will need to start your business and keep it running until it supports itself. Raising money is the most difficult problem faced by most small businesses and insufficient financing is a major cause of small business failure. Before setting out to seek financing, study the subject carefully, starting with brochures from a good bank and discussions with your financial adviser and/or banker. Decide whether you

to

prospectus is the key presentation of yourself and your business idea to others, such as potential partners, investors, bankers, customers, landlords, etc. For details on compiling both these sets of documents, see Tofu & Soymilk Production.

you will have do lot basic education. Our experience has shown that most people love the flavor well-prepared tempeh recipes (see page The Book of Tempeh, for list our favorites). Most percent successful businesses plan allocate shops their sales income for publicity and number (including small ones) have found good investment part-time hire full-time promotional person implement the following ideas. Develop your own brochure containing information about tempeh and tempeh recipes. Do demonstrations food stores, expositions, etc. and serve free samples. Sell our books help sell your products—the books are and use them available from our Center 40% discount. (If you do tempeh brochure, you might refer your customers the books with small blurb: “For more delicious recipes and nutritional information, see The Book Tempeh by Shurtleff Aoyagi (Harper Row).” Do media advertising, especially cooperative advertising with retailers. Do programs and cooking classes for food stores, home-ec and nutrition classes, etc; show slides, serve foods, and sell books. Develop point purchase ads posters be displayed where your tempeh sold. Develop strong contacts with local newspapers, magazines, radio and TV; you give good explanation your work, your tempeh, and the spirit and philosophy behind both, they may well give the best free publicity available. Do press releases and actually visit your shop and taste invite the media your foods. Have occasional open house and party invite the public and serve free samples. Develop your own small book on tempeh and sell local foodstores and bookstores for roughly $2.00. Start Soy Deli Restaurant introduce your products ready eat their very best.

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of the most important parts of starting a business. The projections will show your expected profit and loss, cash flow, and balance sheet each month for the first 12 to 36 months you are in business. Your business plan or

Small Businesses (IRS Publication cost from any IRS office.

#334) available

18

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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Advertising and Educational Activities: Since tempeh not yet well known most parts the world,

Learning More about Making Tempeh: Increase your skills by attending yearly SANA conferences and visiting other tempeh producers not your market area. Study more about the basic microbiology and chemistry tempeh fermentation described the list basic food microbiology books the Bibliography Appendix this book and the professional Tempeh. edition our Book some point, mostly for pleasure, you might want visit tempeh shops and listing given Appendix researchers Indonesia. Tempeh. the professional edition our Book

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Quality Control: Some shops are tempted get their tempeh onto the market and widely distributed before consistently high. This can very the quality serious mistake. few poor batches with excessive black sporulation, weak mycelium, and/or acidic flavor can lose you many customers forever, make retailers general give hesitant reorder your product, and your new product may take you bad reputation that years always smarter compost correct. mediocre tempeh than try sell

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Marketing, Sales Product Development: Market ing the development creative concepts and programs for selling your products. Sales the actual day day implementation marketing strategies. Product development involves the development foods and packaging suited the needs the market. Each these important areas should be studied carefully. of

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Bookkeeping Taxes: Any businessperson who does keeping good not fully appreciate the importance records should not be business. Study these two topics depth, with the help basic books and perhaps CPA (certified public accountant). The Internal Revenue Service issues an excellent Tax Guide

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function; (2) foreign study program could started Indonesia; INTSOY now has such the U.S. Illinois; (3) private course the University entrepreneurs any Third World country could establish tempeh shops and soy plants; and (4) introducing soyfoods into individuals dedicated great deal. To Third World country could accomplish support their work, they could write and sell books, pamphlets and articles, give lectures, demonstrations and cooking classes, serve consultants for commer cial firms, and perhaps obtain grants from the government, private individuals, foundations. The Farm (from Tennessee) has worked actively Guatemala, introduce soyfoods with financial support from the Canadian government. interesting note that fermented soyfood tempeh, has called kenima, which almost identical already become popular Nepal, Sikkim, and Darjeeling. can happen there, can happen anywhere! Moreover, the people India have long used Rhizopus make rice beer wine called sonti; would probably be quite easy teach these same producers how use their starter make tempeh. to

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starting and running any Conclusion: The process great deal successful business requires careful study, planning, and hard work. At this point history, food becomes one the planet's most serious problems, running tempeh shop can be pioneering people your community and form real service eventually people around the world. We encourage you keep close the spirit fine craftsmanship and spiritual practice. Let the sense work know help. we can be

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Starting Tempeh Production Third World Countries: This chapter has been written primarily for tempeh shops those starting soy plants North Europe. America Yet we are equally not more) helping shops get started interested areas where high-quality protein short supply. Thus we have described village level tempeh production detail Chapter almost essential that decentralized/ labor intensive approach be used introduce tempeh the Third World, one that features small middle level appropriate technology. Virtually the tempeh produced Indonesia made this way. Tempeh shops could be great benefit rural areas (where 80% the population Third World countries lives), however, foundation for their introduction needs be established, usually the context introducing soybeans basic crop and soyfoods high-quality, low cost protein. Local reactions source general and tempeh fermented foods particular must be tested; local craftsmen must be taught make tempeh; tasty, simple recipes for using tempeh developed; and local dishes must information about tempeh's nutritional value must be way the people can understand. disseminated any These objectives can be accomplished four programs: (1) pilot plant basic types school could be started Third World country. INTSOY (based the University Illinois) now operating one such program very successfully Sri Lanka. Australia could play major role popularizing the use tempeh easily study tempeh worldwide. Australians could production nearby Indonesia, develop production methods suited for temperate and tropical climates with and without mechanization, start commercial shops and schools, produce and export dried tempeh, and the like. The Soycrafters Apprenticeship Program the U.S. now designed serve somewhat the same educational

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to crisis like a ship without a rudder. Having no basic business plan, the managers let the business run them. Effective creative management involves the develop ment of an overall business strategy, which is then expressed in terms of measurable objectives geared to a timetable with responsibility for completing various projects allocated to various individuals. Actual progress must be continually monitored against the plan. One new organization aimed at helping small businesses to develop management skills is The New School for Democratic Management (589 Howard St., San Francisco, CA 94105. Tel. 415-543-7973). They give 3-to-5-day workshops for any group of 50 or more people at the group's location. Their basic premise is that it is more productive and a better use of resources to increase the authentic participation of employees in running the business. They teach classes in basic business skills from starting business and basic bookkeeping, marketing, and co-op manage finance ment. For more information on expanding the business, Soymilk Production. see Tofu

SHOP

19

2

Setting Up Shop

fter having studied the information in Chapter 1 on the various basic types of tempeh shops and having selected one suited to your present market potential, available capital, and work preferences, you are now ready to consider various building designs and specifications, and to order or construct the necessary equipment. This chapter begins by discussing the basics of setting up the building and workshop regardless of the scale, then moves to a discussion of the equipment required for each of the basic types of shops, listed with the smallest first. Equipment used in more than one type of shop is listed where it is most widely used—usually at the plant. Deep-frying equipment steam cooker is described in Chapter 8.

we mentioned that starting a tempeh shop in the same building as an existing tofu shop or soy dairy allows you to use basically the same type of building as well as much of the same equipment. This alternative should be given careful consideration. Community or Kitchen Shop: A number of successful commercial tempeh shops have been built right in the kitchen of the tempeh maker's home or in a commercial kitchen with relatively low-cost alterations made to satisfy health inspectors. One craftsman in such a shop can generally make 50 to 100 pounds of tempeh a day. Since health codes vary from area to area, ask your local health inspector what changes you will have to make in your kitchen (or in any other room in or adjoining the house) to bring it up to standard. At minimum you will have to have nonporous, easily washable walls and a fan and vent to draw off excess steam. Fire Cooker Shop or Steam Cooker Plant: For best results, floors should be concrete and sloping toward one or more central trench drains. Walls should have a smooth, non-permeable finish (stainless steel, fiber glass, tile, waterproof paint etc.), and there should be a high ceiling and adequate venting, preferably with a fan, to take out steam during boiling and cooling the beans. The basic design will depend strongly on your budget, your existing or available structure, and your health inspector. The building and equipment for a large fire cooker shop and a small steam cooker plant are very similar. A steam cooker generally requires a boiler except where a self-contained steam-jacketed kettle is used. Most health departments require that your soy hull compost or storage be at least 20 feet from your building.

THE BUILDING: NORTH AMERICA PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION Most of the principles involved in setting up a tempeh shop building are very similar to those involved in setting up a tofu shop or soy dairy. The following are discussed in detail in Chapter 2 of Tofu & Soymilk Production and will not be repeated here: Key Points to Remember; Floor & Drains; Walls & Ceilings; Windows, Doors & Insect Control; Ventilation; Water; Plumbing, Sewage & Waste Treatment; Water Garbage & Refuse Disposal; Electricity, Lighting & Gas; Refrigeration; Soybean Storage & Vermin Control; Toilet & Dressing Rooms; Equipment Selection & Placement; Work Clothes; Office; Refrigerated Deliv ery Vehicles. At Determining the Basic Type of Shop in Chapter 1,

20

Fig. 2.1 Fire Cooker Ontario,

Plant Layout.

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1. Soak, Dehull, Cook, and Drain Soybeans: At about 6:00 P.M. the evening before, wash soybeans and start them to soak in plenty of water in cooking pot. At 7:00 the next morning, empty beans and soak water into large rectangular stainless steel colander positioned over sink. Combine 10 gallons water and 1 cup cider vinegar in cooking pot; bring to a boil (which takes about 30 minutes). Meanwhile run soaked beans through meat grinder fitted with special grinding plate into 2 deep stainless steel pans.

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

91

Fig. 5.20 Dehulling Soaked Grinder

Soybeans

in Modified Meat

When water in pot comes to a boil, add cracked dehulled soybeans, stir well, and skim off hulls with a stainless steel colander type dipper (8 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep). Return water to the boil (which takes another 30 minutes). Again skim off hulls and foam. (The pot, being 22 inches deep, has sufficient depth to allow a head of foam to form without overflowing.)

Fig. 5.21 Skimming Hulls from Cooking Soybeans

Fig. 5.22 Pouring Cooked Beans into Draining Colander

Allow beans to drain

in colander for about 10 then spread beans on six (nonperforated) aluminum cake trays (each 25 by 18 by % inch deep). Slip a 2-by-4 board under one end of each tray to allow air underneath and stir beans every few minutes to hasten cooling to body temperature (37°C; 98.6°F). Place empty cooking pot on 2-by-4 boards on floor and allow it to dry of its own heat. 2. Inoculate Soybeans: Put 8 teaspoons pulverized rice-based tempeh starter into a 1-pint mason jar with a perforated lid (or into a large salt shaker). Sprinkle starter over the beans in each of the six trays. minutes,

Fig. 5.23 Inoculating

S.

Reduce heat slightly and cook beans at a rolling boil for 25 minutes. Slide cooking pot off burner onto special cart. Wheel cart to kitchen sink and, by lifting up bar on rear end of pot, empty contents into large rectangular stainless steel colander positioned over sink.

92

FIRE COOKER SHOP METHOD

S

Cooled Beans on Trays

Empty each tray of inoculated beans into the cooking pot. Mix well, back and forth from end to end with a large wooden spoon to distribute starter evenly over beans. 3. Package and Incubate: Have ready about fifty 1 quart Ziploc bags (each 7 by 8 inches); they have already been perforated (50 at a time) in a special two layer plastic jig with holes spaced 9% inch apart (see Polyethylene bags at Chapter 2). Using a small flour scoop, fill each bag with 1 pound inoculated soybeans; weigh bag and seal manually.

At abo it 10:15 A.M., place trays on racks below ceiling of incubation room. Fig. 5.26 Placing Bags on Racks in Incubation Room

Fig. 5.24 Weighing Inoculated Beans in Bag

2.

Place bags on a cutting board and, using a wooden tamp, flatten and compact the bags to a thickness of about 9% inch. Place four bags on each of a number of plastic mesh trays (TV trays with the legs removed).

Wash utensils (which takes about 1 hour). Incubate tempeh at 31 to 33°C (88-92°F) for 20 to 21 hours. When tempeh is ready (at about 6:00 to 7:00 A.M. the next morning), just before any sporulation begins, transfer tempeh on trays back to kitchen. Place each tempeh-filled bag on a cutting board and cut once lengthwise, then once crosswise into halves, to make four equal 4-ounce pieces. (Cutting facilitates removal of tempeh from its bag.) Discard perforated incubation bag. Fig. 5.27 Cutting Finished Tempeh into Fourths

Fig. 5.25 Tamping Bags to Compact Beans

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

93

Place the four pieces in a new, non-perforated Ziploc bag and again place four tempeh-filled bags on a plastic mesh tray.

STEAM COOKER PLANT (Uses 30-450 Pounds Dry Soybeans a Day)

This type of plant is the one we recommend for sustained, economically viable operation in North America. It is presently the most popular type.

Fig. 5.28 Packaged and Labeled Tempeh

CORNELL UNIVERSITY PILOT PLANT Dry Dehull, Dry Separation, Tray Fermentation Makes 53 Pounds of Tempeh

al.

In the following method, described by Steinkraus

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(1965), one man working 8-hour day can produce 107 pounds fresh tempeh 59.4 pounds dehydrated tempeh. The use two men would double the plant's capacity.

84

30.5 pounds dry soybeans 10 gallons (83.3 pounds) water 380 ml of 85% lactic acid grams freeze-dried tempeh starter Dehull Dry Soybeans: Run whole dry soybeans through (Ferrel) size grader sort them into four different sizes (diameters). Dry-heat the beans 93°C (200°F) for minutes (custom built) circulating help loosen the hulls from the hot-air cabinet dryer cotyledons. Run the beans size-graded lots through an 8-inch-diameter (C. Bauer Co.) steel burr mill, which has been properly adjusted loosen the hulls without cracking the cotyledons. Finally, separate the hulls from the cotyledons by passing the mixture over (Oliver Mfg. Co.) gravity separator. Soak, Cook Drain Soybeans: Combine 28 pounds (12.7 kg) dry cotyledons with gallons (83.3 pounds) water and 380 ml 85% lactic acid 20 gallon steam jacketed kettle (or separate soak tank). Soak 25°C (77°F) for hours or, the kettle, a

Sandwiched

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Ready

to

94

STEAM COOKER PLANT METHOD

in

2

in

a

in

Place 25 pounds of tempeh in each of two freezers at -20°C (-5°F); the use of two freezers also gives faster freezing. They should be well frozen in 3 to 4 hours. Pack the frozen tempeh into a cooler-freezer (a Koolatron made by Coleman that plugs into a cigarette lighter in the car for power) or into ordinary Styrofoam picnic coolers, each of which holds up to 40 pounds and keeps the tempeh well frozen, even in the summer for 18 to 20 hours. Deliver tempeh to local food stores; in November 1979 a 1-pound package wholesaled for $1.00 and retailed for $1.49.

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Fig. 5.31 Spreading Inoculated Beans

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100°C (212°F) for 30 minutes. Bring cotyledons boil the soak water and simmer for 90 minutes, then colanders, then drain and cool woven wire baskets in

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Now invert another plastic mesh tray atop tempeh to form a “sandwich,” and place “sandwiches” in freezer stacked bricklap fashion as shown below to leave space between cakes for faster freezing.

on screen trays, to 38°C (100°F; just warmer than body temperature). The pH of the beans should now be 4.8 to 5.0. 3. Inoculate and Incubate Soybeans: Divide the cooled beans into two batches, each weighing 30.8 pounds (14 kg). Combine one batch with 42 grams freeze dried tempeh starter in a Hobart mixer (model H-600-T), and mix for about 3 minutes, or until the beans are well inoculated. Spread 6.6 pounds (3 kg) inoculated beans on metal dryer trays (each 13.8 by 31.9 by 0.5 inches deep, with woven stainless steel 3-mm or 1/8-inch mesh bottoms; the same trays used to dry the whole beans in the cabinet dryer). Cover beans on each tray with a layer of unperforated waxed paper to decrease moisture loss, then incubate trays in an incubation room at 38°C (100°F) and 78 to 85 percent relative humidity for 18 hours. Cut tempeh into cakes, remove from trays and package fresh. Fig. 5.32 Finished Tempeh in Screen-Bottom

Trays

THE TEMPEH WORKS Dry Dehull, Skim Separation, Bag Fermentation Makes 53 pounds of Tempeh

The Tempeh Works in Greenfield, Massachusetts, is located in a 1200-square-foot building, with cinder block walls, and a slab floor with drains. The incubation room is 12 by 6 by 7 feet high, with a door at each end to allow the use of rolling racks on a first-in first-out system. It is heated by electric baseboard heaters with an industrial thermostat having a range of 0 to 44°C (32-110°F). Air is circulated by one or more fans directed at the ceiling. The incubator is expected to be able to handle 500 pounds of tempeh a day. A floor plan of the plant is shown in Figure 2.2. One batch of tempeh, which yields 52.5 pounds, is made as follows. 30 pounds dry soybeans

20 gallons water (approximately) 1 cup vinegar 75gm tempeh starter (home grown on rice, with backup supply purchased from Farm Foods) 1. Dehull, Soak, and Cook Soybeans: Pour clean whole dry soybeans from their multiwall paper sack into hopper of an 8-inch Meadows Stoneburr Mill to dry dehull them and split them into large pieces, which fall down into a 32-gallon plastic barrel.

Fig. 5.34 Dry Dehulling Soybeans

Or cut tempeh into 1-inch squares (which are left in place on the metal trays), place trays in the circulating hot air dryer, and dehydrate at 93°C (200°F) (43°C wet bulb) for 90 to 120 minutes, or until tempeh moisture level is reduced to 2 to 4 percent. Package in moisture proof Pliofilm bags. Fig. 5.33 Drying Tempeh in Cabinet Dryer

Add water to almost fill barrel, stir briskly, skim off floating hulls, repeat stir and skim, and allow cotyledons and remaining hulls to soak overnight.

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

95

Fig. 5.35 Cooking Soybeans in Self-Contained Kettle

to

60

Fig. 5.37 Inoculating

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centrifuge for 20 down beans seconds cool them, balance net centrifuge, spin beans centri fuge for 1% minutes until well dried, then 21%-gallon polyethylene mixing transfer beans box. to to 2

The next morning, preheat approximately 20 gallons water in a self-contained 40-gallon steam-jacketed kettle (mounted on a platform). Meanwhile, open drain at bottom of soak barrel to drain off soak water. Rinse beans in barrel with water from a hose. Add beans to water boiling in kettle and, skimming off hulls every five minutes or so with an 8-inch-diameter strainer, bring to a boil (which takes 10 minutes), then simmer for 30 minutes. Add vinegar about 15 minutes before end of cook.

Beans

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Inoculate and Incubate Soybeans: Place mixing box partially filled with soybeans on mixing table and, using large spoon and clean hands, mix tempeh Starter.

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Open spout at base of cooker and run the cooked gravity down into beans (Bock) centrifugal ex tractor lined with fine-mesh Dacron laundry net. Hose

Fig. 5.38 Scooping Beans into Perforated Bags

Fig. 5.39 Weighing Beans

in

all

Fig. 5.41 Taking Tempeh

Rolling Rack into Incubator

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Weigh most or the bags using small scale on bags weigh about one-third the filling table. Be sure ounce over label weight. Bags

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Incubate tempeh starting 34.5°C (94°F) for about hours, then reduce temperature the first 31°C more, (88°F) and incubate for 14 hours until tempeh done. Part way through incubation, after hours, when condensation starts, switch about places between the top three trays and the bottom three trays the rolling rack. Roll rack finished tempeh out the “out” door trays tempeh (still incubation room. Place up perforated metal trays the bags) steamer and atmospheric pressure for steam minutes partially sterilize tempeh (longer steaming tends cook tempeh and deform bags, which undesirable). rolling Place steamed tempeh back on screen trays rack and allow to stand for about 10 minutes at room temperature while tempeh cools. Then roll tempeh on by by feet high) set rack into walk-in cooler 12

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sealing table and seal Transfer bags on metal trays pedal-activated heat sealer. each bag using

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bags on After the bags have been sealed, place by 26 each screen incubation trays (each inches); leave space the size one bag open the center each tray aid air circulation during incubation. Place metal tray right side up atop bags tempeh tray and press compress and down bags. Slide tempeh tray into flatten beans full, roll rolling rack. When rack through the “in” door into incubation room.

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4°C (35-38°F) and allow cool for hours. Use heat sealer seal each bag an outer nonperforated polyethylene bag, put pressure sensitive label, cartons, then return bulk pack cooler await shipment. The steamed, refrigerated tempeh, sold reported reach-in coolers food stores, have shelf life weeks. Most distribution done by either The Tempeh Works, the New England Soy Dairy, other natural food distributors. November 1979 an 8-ounce package wholesaled for $0.55 and retailed for pound respectively). $0.79 ($1.10 and $1.58 For institutional orders, The Tempeh Works occa sionally makes tempeh trays follows: Using plastic scoop, scoop inoculated beans onto perforated by by aluminum standard bakers sheet pans, each deep perforated many inch and with 1/16-in-diameter grid pattern every holes inch.

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

97

Fig. 5.42 Scooping Beans into Trays

To extend the shelf life, the tempeh may be partially sterilized in a multi-pan steam cooker by steaming for 3 to 5 minutes. Then cover tempeh with polyethylene film and allow to cool as described above.

Fig. 5.45 Multi-Pan Pressure Steam Cooker

seal

bags, and refrigerate

in

Tempeh

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polyethylene wrap

freeze.

Cut Soy Tempeh

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Fig. 5.44 Closeup

good quality tempeh made

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Fig. 5.43 Cutting Finished Tempeh

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Spread beans with bottom of scoop into a layer roughly 3% inch thick using slightly more than 4 pounds of cooked beans per tray. Press beans down firmly with back of scoop, cover with a layer of thin polyethylene film perforated by hand on 2 to 3 inch centers, then place tray in a rolling rack. One batch should fill about trays are 12 trays. When the rack, roll rack into incubation room and incubate above. When tempeh done, cut the tray into 4-ounce 8-ounce cakes.

as

98

STEAM COOKER PLANT METHOD

or

8-

of

to

The tempeh can be sold institutions the trayful without cutting and packaging individual pieces. Or, cut cooled, steamed tempeh into 16-ounce cakes and wrap by hand with polyethylene film. Check weight. Label and refrigerate described above.

THE INDONESIAN TEMPEH CO. Dry Dehull, Skim Separation, Bag Fermentation Makes 44 pounds of Tempeh This was the first shop in the Western world to make commercial tempeh. It is located in the home of Mr. Gale Randall. His incubator is 2 feet wide, 2 feet from front to back, and 4 feet high, with numerous

horizontal shelves. Two 60-watt light bulbs (for heat) and a thermostat are mounted at the center of the bottom. The construction is of tempered pressed wood and pegboard as described at the Fire Cooker Shop in Chapter 2. (An incubation room would be preferable.) The following batch recipe makes about 44 pounds of tempeh. Some days the shop produces two or three batches. Note that no vinegar is used.

pounds whole dry soybeans grown 8% tablespoons tempeh starter

25

(Prize;

organically

1. Dehull and Cook Soybeans: Begin filling 20-gallon steam jacketed kettle with water to about three-fourths full. Light gas burner under kettle to heat water. Run dry beans through a (C. S. Bell) grist mill, which has been set at coarsest possible grind that will dehull all beans nicely. Pour dehulled beans into water in kettle and remove floating hulls with a slotted or perforated skimmer. Bring to a boil and simmer for 25 minutes, while occasionally skimming off hulls and foam. 2. Drain, Inoculate, and Incubate Soybeans: Drain water from beans in kettle by opening screen-covered drain valve at bottom. Scoop beans out of kettle and spread them on large (nonperforated) metal trays (each 20 by 24 by 3 inches deep). Allow to cool for about 30 minutes until they reach body temperature. Then sprinkle starter over beans on trays. Funnel 8 ounces of inoculated soybeans into one hundred 3-by-8-inch polyethylene bags, each perfor ated with pinholes every half inch. Close tops of bags with bread loaf fasteners so that each bag is shaped like an 8-inch-long, 2-inch-diameter sausage. Incubate at 32°C (90°F) for 22 to 24 hours. 3. Blanch Tempeh: Fill kettle three-fourths full of water and bring to a rolling boil. While water is heating, remove fasteners from tempeh; slit and remove bags. Place tempeh in boiling water and blanch for 15 minutes. Remove tempeh and place on trays to cool. When thoroughly cool, put into somewhat larger bags, slip label inside each bag, and close each bag with a bread fastener. Freeze tempeh in bags. Distribute to food co-ops, natural and health food stores, restaurants, and supermarkets. In September 1979, each 8-ounce bag wholesaled for $0.70 and retailed for $0.95 ($1.40 and $1.90 a pound respective ly).

NORTHERN SOY Dry Dehull, Dry Separation, Bag Fermentation Makes 61 Pounds of Tempeh The following method is used at the Northern Soy Tempeh Shop in Rochester, New York. The boiler is shared with the tofu shop that occupies the same building. The incubation room, 4 by 5 by 7 feet high, fits into a small corner of the shop. It uses an $18 thermostat ordered through the W. W. Grainger catalog, an electric wall heater, and an exhaust fan to prevent overheating. Formerly, the shop used a smaller cabinet incubator described at the Fire Cooker Shop in Chapter 2. 35 pounds whole dry soybeans

7/8 cup cider vinegar

8.8 tablespoons sporulated rice tempeh starter, the con tents of 5% mason jars, made by the Sporulated Rice, Pressure Cooker & Jar Method (see Chapter 9)

1. Dehull, Cook, and Drain Soybeans: Dry whole soybeans in a large barrel or vat by blowing hot dry air through them via a steam sparger (the type used in a tofu pressure cooker, see Chapter 2), using a $13 hair dryer (or a heat gun) set on high for 24 hours. Run well dried beans through a steel plate mill (a La Milpa or a motor-powered Corona located on a platform 6 to 8 feet above the shop's floor) to crack them into halves. Using a fan and two catch-boxes as shown in Figure 2.34, separate the dry hulls from the cotyledons. The cotyledons fall into a 20-gallon Rubbermaid Brute vat. (An estimated 50 percent of the hulls are separated by the fan, 30 percent are later skimmed off during boiling, and 20 percent end up in the tempeh.) Add cotyledons to roughly 18 gallons boiling water in a 30-gallon steam jacketed kettle (which cost $50 used) heated by a high pressure boiler. Skim off hulls using a fine mesh skimmer. When beans come to a boil, add vinegar and simmer for 45 minutes. Now run beans directly into two or three nylon sacks in a Bock centri fugal laundry extractor ($100 used). Run water over beans to cool them, balance sacks, and centrifuge for about 3 minutes. 2. Inoculate Soybeans: Transfer dewatered, cooled beans into a large rectangular plastic food pan, sprinkle on the starter, and mix thoroughly for about 3 minutes by hand. 3. Pack and Incubate: Use a small cup to scoop a little more than 8 ounces of inoculated soybeans from the mixing pails into hand-held polyethylene bags. Fill about one hundred and twenty 6-by-6-inch KCL Minigrip bags, which have been perforated in a grid pattern at 9%-inch intervals. Place individual bags on a scale now and then to weigh. Flatten bags, place them on lightweight screen trans port trays, then transfer the bags onto shelves in the incubator. Incubate at 31°C (88°F) for an average of 18 hours (in some cases up to 24 hours), or until done.

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

99

of

in

Pour soaked beans onto the removable perforated draining plate steam jacketed kettle, open drain cock kettle, and drain beans. Rinse once with bottom tap water, redrain, then close drain cock and add

to

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25

gallons water and cooker approximately cup vinegar. Bring rolling boil then skim off the mass foam and hulls floating the center the kettle and okay for small percentage discard. the hulls remain the cooked beans, which will increase your bulk yields pounds tempeh more than 2.0, i.e., dry beans). After beans come from pound boil, simmer for opening minutes. Drain beans cock base of kettle.

of

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45

by

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THE SOY PLANT Dry Dehull, Skim Separation, Bag Fermentation Makes 20 Pounds of Tempeh

2

to

in

bags on stacked 4. Freeze: Place tempeh-filled screen racks (see Fig. 2.72; to allow some air circula tion) in a walk-in freezer which is at least -15°C (5°F), preferably at -18°C (0°F), and allow to freeze overnight or until solid. Place each perforated bag in a labeled outer nonperforated bag, then pack into cartons and distribute for sale. In May 1979 an 8-ounce package retailed for $0.99 ($1.98 a pound).

a

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Fig. 5.47 Mixing Inoculant with Beans

Cooker

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pounds whole dry soybeans (organically grown) cup cider vinegar gm tempeh starter, obtained from Farm Foods local laboratory

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Cool and Inoculate Soybeans: Leave cooked, drained beans cooker (on plate). Stirring with paddle every so, allow body minutes cool temperature and dry. Then inoculate beans by mixing grams tempeh starter. the

its

The Soy Plant in Ann Arbor, Michigan, makes tempeh using a steam jacketed kettle. Their incubator (see Fig. 2.21) has the following inside dimensions: 28 inches wide, 35 inches from front to back, and 44 inches high (24.9 cubic feet). It is heated with two 60-watt light bulbs at the bottom of the incubator with a cardboard baffle above them. The temperature is regulated by a standard home heating thermostat of the line voltage type that turns the lights on and off. Toward the end of the fermentation, as the tempeh begins to produce own heat, the incubator can be cooled either opening having the door slightly thermostat turn small fan blow out excess heat. The following ingredients are used make one batch tempeh; pounds forty 8-ounce bags (yield: 1.67).

Dehull, Soak, Cook, and Drain Soybeans: Pour

on

in a

24

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2)

a

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whole cleaned dry soybeans into the hopper Bicycle Bean Buster (see Fire Cooker Shop Chapter and pedal rapidly dehull beans. Combine split cotyledons and loose hulls with gallons water large container hours, depending and soak beans for the air and water temperature. Fig. 5.46 Bicycle Bean Buster

of

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100

STEAM COOKER PLANT METHOD

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Ziploc bags Incubate Soybeans: Place stack (each 4.5/8 by 57/8 inches) on two layers cardboard large piece plywood and, using on nails, bed perforate each bag grid pattern %-inch intervals. Fill each bag with ounces inoculated soybeans, flatten bags, then arrange bags on incubator trays. Slide trays trays rest on slat runners on into incubator (sides incubator walls) and incubate 31°C (88°F) for about 24 26 hours, until tempeh done. Now either freeze the tempeh immediately place May 1979 walk-in cooler cold refrigerator. each 8-ounce package wholesaled for $0.60 and retailed pound respectively). for $0.80 ($1.20 and $1.60

Fig. 5.48 Removing

Tempeh from Incubator

ISLAND SPRING Rinsed Dehull, Skim Separation, Tofu Tub Fermentation Makes 135 Pounds of Tempeh

Fig. 5.49 Weighing Soybeans

Drain off water via a screen-covered drain cock at bottom of tank. Rinse beans well with water and redrain. Transfer washed beans into hopper of tofu shop stone mill, adjust distance between stones so that all of the hulls are just nicked off, then turn on mill and dehull beans. (About 75% of the beans will split into their two cotyledons; the rest will be whole with the hulls loosened.) Fig. 5.50 Dehulling

Washed Beans

Island Spring Inc. in Washon, Washington produces a variety of soyfoods including tofu, soymilk, and tempeh. Some of the tempeh equipment (soaking vats, mill dehuller, boiler, and steam jacketed cookers) are also used to make tofu and soymilk. The soybeans for the entire plant are purchased in bulk and stored in a large silo. The incubation room, which is 6 by 6 by 6 feet high, is described in Chapter 2. The use of tofu tubs and an automatic packager for tempeh packaging is clever, although the lack of holes in the bottom of the tubs may slightly hinder mycelium formation. The total process tends to yield beans cracked into somewhat smaller pieces than is desirable. One batch of tempeh takes one worker 6 to 6% hours of work time to produce and makes 270 eight-ounce cakes, a total of 135 pounds of tempeh, or a yield of 1.8. 75 pounds dry soybeans (organically grown) 3 cups apple cider vinegar % cup (79 cc) tempeh starter, grown in mason jars on rice inoculated with starter obtained from Farm Foods, and pulverized in a sterile blender 1. Wash, Dehull, and Cook Soybeans: Weigh dry soybeans on a scale, transfer them into a large soaking tank (a used 80-gallon steam-jacketed cooker mounted on legs having casters), partially fill tank with water, and stir well with a paddle.

Into a steam jacketed kettle mounted on a platform, run 35 to 40 gallons of hot water (71°C or 160°F) from an auxiliary heat exchanger attached to the shop's boiler. Add the vinegar and bring to a rapid boil. Add beans (without losing the boil) and cook at a rolling boil for 15 minutes, watching that pot does not boil over. Then increase to a very rapid boil so that hulls and foam form a cap and rise in kettle. Just before kettle over: flows, reduce heat so that hulls and foam fall and

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

101

contract at center of cooker; now skim off hulls with a wire skimmer (18-inch diameter, º/4-inch double mesh) and place them in a 5-gallon bucket. Repeat the process of increasing and decreasing heat and skimming off hulls three times, or until almost all hulls are removed and you have roughly 2% gallons of hulls and foam in the bucket. Now simmer beans for 30 minutes more, to make a total of 45 minutes cooking. Fig. 5.51 Cooking Beans in Steam Jacketed Kettle

2. Drain and Cool Soybeans: Open cock in bottom of cooker and run cooked beans and cooking water back down into tank used for soaking. Open screen-covered cock at bottom of tank to drain off water from beans. Allow drained beans to cool uncovered in tank for 20 to 40 minutes; stir occasionally until temperature drops to 43°C (110°F). Wheel bean-filled tank over to a (Bock) centrifugal extractor (generally used as a laundry spin dryer), which has been lined with a well-sanitized tofu pressing sack. Transfer one-fourth of beans into sack and spin for 2 minutes, until beans are quite dry. Then empty beans (weighing about 41 lbs.) from sack into a 200-pound capacity (Leland) hamburger mixer. Spin-dry remaining beans in three more batches. Fig. 5.52 Dewatering

102

3. Inoculate and Package Beans: See that tempera ture of beans is slightly warmer than body temperature (38°C or 100°F). Sprinkle one-third of the tempeh starter over beans in mixer, turn on mixer, and mix for 1 to 1% minutes. Repeat twice until all of the starter has been added and beans have been mixed with starter for 3 to 5 minutes. Fig. 5.53 Mixing Beans with Inoculant in Mixer

/

Wheel mixer to packaging table. Have ready 18 standard aluminum bun pans (18 by 26 by 1 inch deep, used for baking). Arrange 15 polyethylene tofu tubs (the bottom is 4% by 3% inches) on the first bun pan. (Perforated polyethylene bags are an excellent substitute for the plastic tubs.) Scoop slightly more than 8 ounces (2 cups) inoculated beans into each tub, then tamp beans lightly or firmily (try it both ways) with polyethylene a small tamp (a piece of high-density %inch thick and the size of the bottom of each tub, with a handle on its top). Fig. 5.54 Tamping Beans in Tofu Tubs

Beans in Centrifuge

STEAM COOKER PLANT METHOD

Put first tray onto a rolling rack and cover with an empty tray to help beans retain their heat. Continue to fill 270 tofu tubs with inoculated beans. Now wheel rolling rack over to tofu tub sealing machine and heat-seal a sheet of plastic film over top of each tub. Use “bed of nails” attached to knife that cuts off film in packager (see Tempeh Containers, Tofu Tubs, at Steam Cooker Plant in Chapter 2) to perforate the top film with many pinholes spaced 9% inch apart in a grid pattern.

Fig. 5.57 Taking Tempeh on Rolling Rack into Incubator

Fig. 5.55 Sealing Beans in Tubs with Tofu Packaging Machine

After 16 hours, move tempeh from bottom shelf up to top shelf, and that on top shelf down to bottom shelf; likewise with next-to-bottom and next-to-top shelves, etc., to give tempeh equal temperature exposure. At the same time turn on fan in roof of incubation room or have it connected to a thermostat so that it turns on automatically at 35°C (95°F). When tempeh is done, remove tubs containing finished tempeh from incuba tion room and place a pressure-sensitive label over the film (thereby also covering the perforations). 4. Incubate and Freeze Tempeh. When all tubs have been sealed and perforated, place them back on trays on rolling racks.

Fig. 5.58 Packaging Labeled Tubs for Distribution

Fig. 5.56 Putting Sealed Tubs on Trays into Rolling Rack for Incubation

Now wheel racks into incubation room, and incubate for a total of 24 hours.

at 31°C (88°F)

Place 6 tubs in a single layer in a shallow cardboard box, and arrange 6 such boxes in single layer on a pallet. Cover boxes with several 1-by'/4-inch wooden laths (to ensure air circulation) then proceed to add 6% more layers of boxes. Using a pallet jack, wheel box-laden pallet into freezer set at -20 to -24°C (-4 to -11°F). Allow to freeze overnight (about 12 hours) before shipping to retail stores. In November, 1979, one 8-ounce package wholesaled for $0.55 and retailed for $0.89 ($1.10 and $1.78 a pound respectively).

MAKING TEMPEH IN NORTH AMERICA

103

WHITE WAVE SOYFOODS Soaked Dehull, Skim Separation, Bag Fermentation Makes 50 Pounds of Tempeh

White Wave produces tempeh in the same shop with tofu and soymilk; a number of pieces of equipment are shared. One batch makes eighty 10-ounce packages. The process from the time the beans are split until the tempeh is in the incubator takes one worker about 2% hours. 28 pounds whole dry (organically grown) soybeans 1.75 cups vinegar 1.04 cups (50 teaspoons) homemade tempeh starter 1. Soak, Dehull, and Cook Soybeans: Rinse soybeans thoroughly, then soak in excess water in a soaking vat for 12 to 20 hours (depending on the air temperature). Rinse beans thoroughly in a 20-gallon rinsing bucket, then run through the tofu shop stone mill; this splits about 95 percent of the beans into their two cotyledons. Bring 18 gallons water to a boil in a 60-gallon self-contained steam-jacketed cooker. Using 5-gallon buckets, add split soybeans to boiling water, stir, then skim off floating hulls with a fine mesh skimmer.

During the

20 minutes that it takes for the water to return to the boil and the beans to rise, skim off hulls from time to time. After beans rise, reduce heat to cook beans at a gently rolling boil for 45 minutes. Drain beans from cooker via bottom spout and transfer to a cloth-lined lever press (also used to extract soymilk from slurry during soymilk production). Spray hot beans with cold water from a high pressure hose until they have cooled to body temperature. Fold over top of cloth sack and press beans for 5 to 10 minutes until water no longer drips from press. Transfer dry beans to two polyethylene mixing trays, each 24 by 8 by 1% inches deep.

104

STEAM COOKER PLANT METHOD

2. Inoculate and Incubate Soybeans: Sprinkle vinegar uniformly over soybeans and mix well. Now sprinkle starter uniformly over beans and, using clean rubber gloves, mix well by hand. Have ready eighty sandwich-sized Ziploc bags which have been perforated in a grid pattern at 1-inch intervals using a hinged bed of nails. Scoop 10% ounces of inoculated beans into each bag; the beans are found to lose about 9% ounce of weight in moisture during incubation. Seal packages manually and place on racks in incubator. Incubate at 31°C (88°F) for 19 to 24 hours. (After 15 hours the temperature in the incubator starts to rise until a maximum of no more than 35.5°C or 96°F is reached after 18 hours.) bags from incubator and Remove tempeh-filled spread them on racks (do not stack) in a walk-in cooler; allow to cool overnight. Package the next day in outer labeled polyethylene bags, and deliver to local stores; the tempeh is frozen after arrival at the stores, and any excess is frozen in the shop warehouse freezer. In September 1979, one package wholesaled for $0.71 and retailed for $0.94 ($1.14 and $1.50 a pound respective ly).

THE MODERN FACTORY (Uses 300 to 2,000 Pounds Dry Soybeans a Day)

A basic description of both the equipment and methodology of a modern tempeh factory prototype, capable of transforming 1,000 pounds of dry soybeans into 1,750 pounds of tempeh per day, is given at The Modern Factory in Chapter 2. There are not yet any tempeh factories in operation in North America.

6

Making Tempeh in Indonesia of

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Selling Tempeh

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America even the slightest lack cleanliness seems greatly affect the tempeh quality, Indonesia the microorganisms hardy and the are apparently favorable, that even shops which would climate horrify the U.S. health inspectors produce excellent, delicious, and health-giving tempeh day after day.

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dry soybeans per day, and produce fresh tempeh. The overall feeling the craftsmanship the tempeh shops Indonesian that we have visited shares that carefree, often happy, and usually hectic feeling everyday life. There that the carnival little sense spiritual the mindfulness, the feeling work practice, and the rich aesthetic dimension evident among the traditional tofu and miso craftsmen Japan. Even more conspicuous the lack attention to cleanliness and sanitation. And has been continual source amazement us that, whereas 1,000

to

1,000 pounds

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n this chapter we will discuss the various types of Indonesian tempeh shops and the many variations on the basic tempeh-making method. Some of the basic information found in The Book of Tempeh (both regular and professional hardback editions) will be repeated so that it may be used more easily together with new information, which emphasizes descriptions of equipment, larger scale production, and alternate traditional and modern production methods. Having developed over a span of many centuries under fairly diverse conditions, Indonesia's tempeh shops can serve as a model for low-technology tempeh production in a tropical climate. Such a climate is ideal for making tempeh, since the tempeh can be incubated at the natural temperature of the environment, the required microorganisms grow quickly and profusely, and organic wrapping materials such as banana leaves are available in abundance. Perhaps most important, in the context of tempeh's helping to alleviate world hunger, is that the great majority of people facing severe protein malnutrition live in countries in tropical regions. Most of Indonesia's 41,000 tempeh shops are small cottage industries that have an average of 3 workers per shop and use 11% pounds of dry soybeans each day to produce about 21 pounds of fresh tempeh. Located in or adjacent to the craftsman's home, the shop does not require the use of machines or special equipment. Less shops employ more; than 1 percent of workers average pounds dry these use about soybeans per day produce 137 pounds tempeh. The largest shops we know (of which there are but handful), employ from workers, use 600

Javanese Marketplace

Although the work is generally done with little sense

of artistry and the process appears simple, making tempeh is definitely an art which requires a great deal of experience and practice to master, in order to obtain

fine tempeh every time. Each step influences the quality of the final product but the key to the art is mastery of the technique of making and using the starter (inoculum). This step is usually done by the master of the shop or his most experienced assistant. Intuition and sensitivity are required to know just how much inoculum to add under various conditions of temperature and humidity. Most of Indonesia (particu larly Java) has a remarkably uniform climate, with an average temperature of 26°C (79°F), a temperature range of 20 to 30°C (68-86°F), a relative humidity of 79 percent, and roughly 200 days of rainfall each year. The temperature drops about 2.8°C (5°F) for each 1,000 foot rise in elevation above sea level, and some areas receive considerably less rain. Tempeh is made in basically the same way throughout Java, except that in West Java polyethylene bags are used in place of banana leaves as tempeh containers and, in Central and East Java, where fuel is scarce, the beans are generally soaked for 1 to 14 hours before the first boil. A flowchart of the basic method is shown in Figure 4.3. In Indonesia, tempeh making is hard work, which starts early in the morning, usually no later than 4:30 A.M. and in some larger shops shortly after midnight. The entire family usually rises and works together. After an hour or two of work, the head of the family will generally take the fresh mature tempeh, which was started three days earlier, to the market, where he sells it before returning home. In the afternoon, he will often supervise inoculation of the next batch of soybeans to be incubated. Most tempeh shops make a decent income by Indonesian standards, especially considering that the average per capita income for the population as a whole is $180 to $240 per year, or $0.50 to $0.65 per person per day. A typical shop making 20 pounds of fresh tempeh and retailing it for $0.27 (U.S.) per pound will have an income of $5.40. The cost of the beans (at $0.19 per pound) is $2.19, while the cost of firewood and banana leaves or polyehtylene bags raises the total cost to about $2.48. This leaves a daily profit of $2.92 for a family of 4 or 5, which is about the national average. Shops using roughly 65 pounds of dry soybeans per day will have a typical daily profit of $11.25 or 4 to 5 times the national average. We have observed that the families in even the smaller tempeh shops generally seem to be well nourished and happy, and to live comfortably by Indonesian standards. In this chapter we will begin by describing briefly the methods used in a small-scale tempeh pilot plant now operated as a model in Indonesia; this will help us to develop a familiarity with the basic process and introduce a working model for similar pilot projects in other developing countries. We will then discuss

106

Indonesian tempeh shop buildings and followed by a detailed description of the method used to make tempeh at the relatively large scale and well-known Oeben plant in Bandung. Next we elaborate on a number of popular variations on this basic method, and conclude with a description of the method for making Malang tempeh, Indonesia's most distinguished variety.

commercial ingredients,

NUTRITION RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE (GIZI, BOGOR, W. JAVA) Small Scale Tropical Pilot Plant Makes 27 Pounds of Tempeh The scale of this method is about the same as that of tempeh shop. The process differs in several minor ways that make it more adaptable to model pilot projects: the beans are cooked in large kitchen kettles (rather than cutoff steel drums) over a gas burner (rather than a wood fire) and a ready-made pure-culture starter (inoculum) is used instead of the typical starter grown in tempeh shops on hibiscus leaves. This process was developed and is used at the prestigious Nutrition Research and Development Institute (GIZI) in Bogor. One man working several hours each morning, makes the tempeh, which is then sold to a nearby hospital, where it is served to the patients. Lest the utensils look larger than we describe them, it must be pointed out that the craftsman was of unusually small stature. a typical Indonesian cottage-industry

15.4 pounds (7 kg) whole dry soybeans, rinsed several

times and drained

Water 8 tablespoons tempeh starter

The soybeans are divided among two 5-gallon pots and water is added to cover them by 1 to 2 inches. The beans are brought to a boil over two gas burners and simmered for 30 minutes. Any foam that rises to the surface is skimmed off with a colander. Fig. 6.2 Cooking Soybeans

SMALL SCALE TROPICAL PILOT PLANT METHOD

Half the contents of one pot is poured into an 18-inch-diameter, 4-inch-deep woven bamboo colander, set over a woven basket to raise the colander off the floor; the beans are allowed to cool and drain for several minutes. Fig. 6.3 Draining Soybeans

Using a metal plate or a small bucket, he scoops half the dehulled beans into the colander described above. He slowly immerses this in a 3-foot-diameter tank filled with water and floats off the hulls by lifting up the near corner of the colander and stirring or fanning the floating (or partially floating) hulls toward the far edge, where they slowly sink. He then raises the colander, stirs the beans gently, reimmerses the colander and floats off more hulls. This process is repeated four or five times until most of the hulls have been removed. Fig. 6.5 Floating off Hulls from Soybeans

A woven bamboo “treading basket,” 16 inches in diameter and 14 inches deep, is placed on a well washed, sloping tile (or cement) floor near a drain. The drained beans are poured into this basket and doused with water to cool them until they can be touched without discomfort. The craftsman then rinses his feet thoroughly, steps barefoot into the basket, and, supporting himself occasionally against the wall, treads the beans underfoot for 2% to 3 minutes to dehull them. Fig. 6.4 Dehulling Soybeans by Treading Underfoot

He returns these dehulled beans to one of the cooking pots and floats off the hulls from the second half of the treaded beans. Finally he treads and dehulls the beans from the second cooking pot, then transfers them back into that pot. He adds water to cover the beans in each pot by 1 or 2 inches, then adds back several tablespoons of hulls (the natural Lactobacillus or Pediococcus bacteria on their surface aid the prefermentation which acidifies the soak water). The beans are now allowed to soak (overnight) for 24 hours. The beans are then brought to a boil in their soak water (which may be slightly foamy on the surface) and simmered for 30 minutes. They are poured into the colander and drained for 5 minutes, then transferred to the cooling tray, a 4-foot-diameter, 5-inch-deep woven Fig. 6.6 Cooling Soybeans

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

107

bamboo colander. They are then spread in an even layer with a wooden spoon and allowed to stand uncovered by an open window for 1% to 2 hours, being mixed and/or fanned occasionally while they cool and dry. Meanwhile, the craftsman prepares the tempeh using containers 22 polyethylene bags, each 11 inches long and 4% inches wide (an 8-inch-long bag also works well for making smaller tempeh cakes). He stacks the bags congruently atop 4 layers of (terrycloth) toweling on a table, then uses a “bed of nails” (a piece of plywood a little larger than the bags with many nails driven through it 9% inch apart) to make holes in the bags when the nails are pushed down through the stack. (Or the bags may be perforated with an icepick, using the same hole spacing). When the beans have cooled, he washes his hands and sprinkles the tempeh starter evenly over their surface.

Using one hand, he now fills each bag with 500 grams pound, 1% ounces) of inoculated beans, checking the weight on a scale. (1

Fig. 6.9 Scooping Inoculated Beans into Polyethylene

|

Bags

Fig. 6.7 Inoculating Soybeans

Fig. 6.10 Sealing Mouth Burner

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bags have been filled, he folds over the When mouth one bag parallel the front edge and passes the folded edge slowly (for about seconds) above the flame from small alcohol burner candle tightly. proceeds order seal the mouth He seal the bags this way.

Bag with Flame from Alcohol

Then he mixes the beans with both hands for about 2 minutes in order to distribute the starter uniformly. Fig. 6.8 Hand-Mixing Inoculant with Soybeans

ºwsº & º Sº

Sº

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Now he arranges all the bags side by side on slatted wooden rack (%-inch-wide slats separated by %-inch spaces) which allows good air circulation, and allows stand, uncovered overnight them room tempera bags, ture (25°C 77°F). He leaves the which contain fairly thick layer beans, unpressed, that more oxygen can reach the center aid mold growth.

108

SMALL SCALE TROPICAL PILOT PLANT METHOD

Fig. 6.11 Incubating

Bags on Racks at

Air

Temperature

660 pounds (300 kg) whole dry U.S. soybeans

Water

8.8 pounds (4 kg) tapioca 10 to 14 sets

of inoculum-covered hibiscus leaves (laru)

The First Day

At 3:00 A.M. the whole dry soybeans are measured out of their sacks into the bamboo colanders, where stones and debris are removed by hand. They are then transferred to a washing tub partially filled with water, and churned well. Any floating debris or chaff is skimmed off with a bamboo colander and discarded; the

The next morning he wipes the surface of each bag with a towel to remove any excess moisture that may have accumulated around the perforations, then presses the upper surface of each bag firmly by hand to compact the beans and make them into a fairly flat cake that is about 1.4 inches thick at the center and 1 inch thick around the edges. Now he allows the beans to incubate for 24 more hours (44-48 hours total) until the next morning, when the tempeh is ready to be sold.

colander is then used to transfer equal quantities of beans into four wooden soaking vats, which as yet contain no water. All three steel drum caldrons are partially filled with water, which is brought to a boil over a wood fire fueled by 12-inch-long pieces of firewood. Fig.

6. 12

Heating Water for Hot Soaking Soybeans

OEBEN TEMPEH PLANT (BANDUNG, W. JAVA) Large Scale Tropical Caldron Plant Makes 1,155 Pounds of Tempeh

This process, used at the Oeben tempeh plant in Bandung, is rather large scale and has a number of interesting characteristics: (1) the tempeh is made with all the hulls mixed in with the dehulled beans; this rather uncommon practice saves time, money, and what little nutrients are found in the hulls. The tempeh can thus be sold at a lower price, but the quality is also considered lower; (2) the beans are soaked in boiling water before they are dehulled, whereas in most shops they are boiled, dehulled, soaked and then reboiled; not boiling first keeps more bacteria alive to activate the prefermentation, as does soaking the beans with the hulls on; (3) the use of a relatively small amount of water in the caldron during the second cooking means that most of the beans are actually steamed rather than boiled. Steaming is said to produce more nutritious tempeh, having a less beany flavor; (4) tapioca is added as a growth promoter and moisture absorber, and may be essential in tempeh which contains the hulls; (5) a modern system of using large plastic-lined wooden trays facilitates large-scale production; and (6) work starts at midnight and all of it is done by only four workers. A description of the actual multiple-batch, cyclical process is given at the end of the basic one-batch process.

º

At 8:00 A.M. about 50 gallons of boiling water are transferred with a bucket from the caldrons into each of the four wooden soaking vats in order to just cover the which are then allowed to soak until about 1:00 Fig. 6.13 Pouring Hot Water into

Wats

of Soybeans

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

109

in

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Fig. 6.14 Foam from Prefermentation

to

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the tub from previous batches aid the present prefermentation and by the next morning a head of foam will usually have risen in each vat.

Several bucketfuls water from the washing tank are poured over the beans the baskets rinse them. Two workers then wash their feet with water and each one steps barefoot into basket. Supporting themselves on the side the washing tank, they tread the beans walking place) for 30 underfoot (as 50 minutes, minutes, without order dehull them. Every leaving the basket, they pour bucketfuls quickly lifting water and rock the basket vigorously up one side and then dropping order shift and mix the contents. to

At that time enough cold water is added to each vat to fill it to within several inches of its rim. The beans are then allowed to soak overnight. Bacteria in the walls of

Dehulling Soybeans Underfoot

The Second Day

its

At about 15 minutes after midnight the caldrons are filled about half full with water. A wood fire is started under each and the water brought to a boil. The foam that may have formed atop each soaking vat is skimmed off and discarded, revealing the soak water, which, as a result of the prefermentation, is milky yellow in color and slightly sour or acidic in flavor. Using a bamboo colander, the soaked beans are transferred into the bamboo baskets until they fill each basket to about capacity. three fourths of finished, the When the treading the beans baskets are lifted onto one edge the washing tank and the beans are rinsed with to bucketfuls of water. They are then hand mixed and plenty water run over them with hose. Using bucket, the treaded beans (with without the hulls mixed in) are transferred into the boiling water the caldrons until they completely fill each caldron and are mounded the top. The mounded surface covered with moistened and well-wrung gunny sacks (jute bags). The beans are now partially boiled and partially steamed over high heat for 1% hours, starting from the time they are transferred the caldron. placed across At about 4:00 A.M. draining rack the mouth each soaking vat (which now contains the next day's batch washed beans). bamboo basket placed on each rack and bucket used transfer the cooked beans from the caldron into the basket, where the beans are mounded high. All four baskets are filled on the racks this way. is

in

110

LARGE SCALE TROPICAL CALDRON PLANT METHOD

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Fig. 6.15 Draining Prefermented

Fig. 6.17 Pouring Cooked Beans into Draining Colander

second basket is added in the same way, so that the equivalent of one fourth of the soybeans are now mounded on the tray. An electric fan placed one foot from the tray is turned on and used to cool and dry the beans. The beans are mixed constantly with the hoelike mixer for about 20 minutes, or until they are well dried. Fig.

Each mound of beans is covered with a gunny sack and a round wooden lid, then topped with a 30-to-40-pound pressing weight (one or more large clean stones); the beans are pressed for about 20 minutes to rid them of excess moisture. In the process, some hot water will drain down into the next batch of washed beans in the soaking barrel. The shop's master states, however, that this has no particular function or significance and that the beans could be drained anywhere else.

6, 19

Pouring Drained Beans onto Cooling Tray

While the beans are cooling, one worker takes

10 to sets of inoculum-covered hibiscus leaves (see Chapter 9) and pulls apart the two leaves in each set. He picks off and discards the old dried beans leaving mostly black mycelium (mixed with a little white) attached to the underside of each leaf. 14

Fig. 6.20 Hibiscus Inoculum Leaves

Fig. 6.18 Pressing Beans in Colander to Aid Drainage

N

While the beans are draining, the floor of the cooling area is cleared and swept, and the cooling tray is placed at the center of the clean area. Two workers now lift up a basket of drained beans on its draining rack, carry it to the cooling tray, and pour the beans into the tray. A

When the beans have cooled to body temperature and are fairly well dried, the fan is turned off and 2.2 pounds (1 kg) of tapioca are sprinkled over the surface of the beans and mixed in thoroughly with the mixer. The fan is now turned on for about 7 minutes more and then turned off.

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

111

Fig. 6.21 Mixing Tapioca with Beans

inoculated beans are ladled in so that the tray is just filled, then they are packed lightly and the surface is smoothed with a flat stick. Both sides and then both ends of the sheeting are folded over neatly to cover the beans' surface. A double layer of gunny sacking is placed on the floor for insulation in an out-of-the way place; the first tray is placed on the sacking. Fig.

6.23 Pouring Wooden Trays

Inoculated

Beans

into

Plastic-Lined

Two workers now each rub two hibiscus inoculum leaves against each other above the pile of beans in order to rub off some of the spores. They then rub the leaves face down over the surface of the beans for 3 to 4 minutes. Fig. 6.22 Inoculating

Beans with Inoculum

Leaves

Additional trays are filled in the same way and stacked atop the first tray.

Fig. 6.24 Stacking Trays

Now they mix the beans by hand for 6 to 7 minutes in order to distribute the spores evenly throughout. (During this mixing process—as throughout the entire process of making tempeh—there is no special washing of hands or other apparent efforts to ensure cleanli ness.) Finally, a bamboo colander is used to scoop the inoculated beans into a bamboo basket, which has previously been dried over an empty caldron. Either trays or polyethylene bags are now filled with the beans, the method used for bags being given in Variation 1 below. Wooden tempeh trays are each lined with a piece of perforated polyethylene sheeting. The

112

When about 20 trays have been stacked in this way, an empty tray is inverted on the top tray and then covered with a gunny sack. Two to four such stacks are made until all of the beans have been used. It is now about 9:00 A.M. The beans are allowed to incubate in the trays for about 8 hours at roughly 25°C (77°F), the temperature inside the shop, while they develop their own heat of fermentation.

LARGE SCALE TROPICAL CALDRON PLANT METHOD

Fig. 6.25 All Trays Stacked

The Third Day

At 7:00 A.M. two workers remove the first tempeh tray from the incubation racks, place an empty tray of the same size bottom down atop the tempeh-filled tray, and then quickly invert the two trays, leaving the tempeh resting upside down on the bottom of the inverted empty tray, which is placed on any open surface inside the shop. Fig. 6.27 Removing Tempeh from Trays and Inverting

At 5:00 P.M., the trays are unstacked and arranged in single layers in the floor-to-ceiling incubation racks. Here they are left to incubate for 14 hours. Fig. 6.26 Placing Trays in Incubation Racks

All the trays are inverted in this way in various places and allowed to stand for about 17 hours.

Fig. 6.28 Incubating Pallets of Tempeh at Air Temperature in Shop

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

113

Since Indonesian tempeh generally requires three or four days to come to completion and since most shops make one large batch each day, there are actually working on five different batches of tempeh at the same time, each batch being at a different stage in its development. In the previous section, for the sake of simplicity, the basic process was described as if only one batch of tempeh were being made. The following description, however, is an attempt to show how the actual continuous process looks in operation. The number preceeding each line refers to the batch number. “0” refers to the present, main batch, “-1” to the batch started the previous day, “-2” to the batch started the day before that, “-3” to the batch before that, and “-H1” to the next or subsequent batch. 0.

A.M.

0. Tread beans underfoot (12:45

A.M.)

+ 1. Wash

A.M.)

0.

and sort new beans;

A.M.) A.M.)

start to soak (3:30

Finish cooking; drain hot beans (3:50 A.M.)

Empty drained beans into cooling tray; cool and inoculate (4:00 A.M.) -1. Transfer stacked trays to incubation racks (4:45 0.

A.M.)

0.

Fill tempeh trays with inoculated

-2.

Fig. 6.30 Taking Tempeh to Market in 3-Wheeled Pedicycle

Light fire and heat water in three caldrons (12:15

-3. Cut finished tempeh into cakes (12:45 0. Cook and steam dehulled beans (1:50

tempeh containers from incubation Transfer open surfaces and invert (7:00 A.M.) shelves Stack trays inoculated beans and cover with gunny sack (9:00 A.M.) Unstack trays inoculated beans and transfer incubation racks (5:00 P.M.)

A.M.)

beans (5:30

to

0.

Each cake weighs about 1.3 pounds (600 gm), whole sales for $0.18 (U.S.) and retails for $0.22 to $0.24. Some large pallets are sold in their uncut form. The pallets of tempeh from the medium-sized trays are each cut into 44 cakes, each cake being 2.5 by 4.5 inches. After the individual cakes in the medium-sized trays are cut, the plastic sheeting is folded back over them (to provide optimum sanitary protection) and they are sent out on the tray to market. At about 1:00 in the morning, as soon as the tempeh has been cut, men who will sell the tempeh in local marketplaces begin to arrive with their bechaks (3-wheeled pedicycles), which they load with cut or uncut pallets.

0.

Rºº

Cyclical Process

to

Fig. 6.29 Cutting Tempeh into Cakes

The Multiple-Batch,

of

Shortly after midnight, after the tempeh has incubated a total of 39 hours, it is finished and ready to be cut and sold. Each of the trays is again inverted on the bottom of an empty tray, the plastic sheeting unwrapped, and the trays placed outside on the concrete-surfaced, well-swept courtyard. Each pallet of tempeh is now about 1% inches (3.2 cm) thick. Using a wooden cutting guide and a knife, the tempeh from the large trays is cut vertically lengthwise into halves and then crosswise into sevenths to make a total of fourteen cakes from each pallet.

for

After work, after the previous day's plastic sheeting has been returned by the market sellers, the sheeting together with all tools are washed in cold water. The sheets are then dried in the sun on a clothesline. After a sheet has been used for one week it is discarded.

of

The Fourth Day

in

Variations Traditional Dehulling and Floating off the Hulls

114

MULTIPLE-BATCH, CYCLICAL PROCESS

in

a

of

of

of

a

of

by

of

if

a

by

is

at

a

1:

in

Washing Floating off the Hulls Variation Tank: The following method used the Tempeh Yogyakarta, where the beans are de Murni plant hulled stone mill. The same method applies, how ever, the beans are dehulled underfoot. The washing 44-gallon steel drum tanks consist the two halves that has been cut vertical to its main axis. Both halves are filled about 90 percent full water and placed side gallon side. One mixture dehulled beans and

their hulls is placed in a bamboo colander that has a diameter 3 to 4 inches smaller than the inside diameter of the drum. The colander is immersed to the rim in the water in the drum and the beans are mixed with one hand, causing the hulls to float to the water's surface. The craftswoman then pats the surface of the water 5 to 6 times with the flat of one hand, causing any floating beans to sink and pushing the floating hulls toward the edge of the colander. Fig. 6.31 Floating off Hulls by Hand

the bottom one third of the beans, which she then places in the storage basket with the other clean beans. The total time to wash one colander full of beans is about 2 minutes. A small number of beans will unavoidably float off with the hulls. After all the beans have had their hulls floated off, she uses a colander to scoop all hulls and any beans mixed with them out of the bottom of the drum. She then picks out any beans by hand, pinches off the hulls, and puts them with the other clean beans. The hulls are sold as pig fodder for about $0.25 (U.S.) per basketful. Variation 2: Dehulling the Beans and Floating off the Hulls in a Stream: Many of Java's tempeh shops locate themselves near a stream, which they use to facilitate the process of dehulling the beans. The beans, after having been cooked for about 35 minutes, are scooped out of the caldron using a perforated ladle, placed into a 2-gallon metal bucket. Three such bucketfuls are used to partially fill a woven bamboo basket set on a well washed level stone or cement platform located on the riverbank 4 to 5 feet above the water level. The basket, made of tightly woven bamboo or raffia, is 16 inches square and 8 inches deep. Four bucketfuls of river water are poured into the beans in the basket, until the basket is full of water, then one corner of the basket is pulled out and down to allow the floating hulls to drain off. Fig. 6.33 Pouring off Hulls from Basket

She then quickly lifts up the near edge of the colander and pulls the colander toward her; the hulls float over the far edge and slowly sink into the drum. Fig. 6.32 Pouring off Hulls

She reimmerses the colander, pats the surface, and floats off the hulls nine more times, mixing the beans every third or fourth time. She now transfers the clean beans to a second drum containing clean water, where she repeats the immersing, patting, and floating off process four more times. She scoops the top two-thirds of the beans into a storage basket, mixes the bottom third in the colander, and then repeats the immersing, patting, and floating off process two more times with

Standing on the stone platform, the craftsman rinses

off his feet with river water, steps into the basket and, often balancing himself by holding a nearby pillar or tree, he begins to tread the beans underfoot. He twists his heels, toes, and entire body back and forth in a sort of dance rhythm as if doing the “twist,” (often to the accompaniment of lively music from the family radio). Without adding any water or lifting his feet out of the beans he treads them for 6 to 7 minutes.

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

115

Fig. 6.34 Dehulling Beans by Treading Underfoot

After rinsing off his feet, he steps out of the basket

and carries the basket to the riverside, where he wades into the water and gently immerses the basket until it just fills with water. He stirs the beans with one hand to help the hulls float to the surface, then lowers the downstream corner of the basket about 1 inch below the water surface while lifting the upstream corner so that the hulls float out of the basket and are carried away downstream.

Fig. 6.36 Transferring Dehulled Beans into Rinsing Tank

From a nearby well, he now draws about ten gallons

of clean water, adds it to the beans in the tank, and allows them to soak for 3 to 5 minutes. Finally using

both hands (or a large strainer) he scoops the beans out of the barrel, drains them momentarily, then transfers them into a nearby bucket. Fig. 6.37 Scooping Rinsed Beans into Bucket

Fig. 6.35 Floating off Hulls in Stream

When the bucket is full, the beans are transferred back into the caldron where they are allowed to soak for about 20 hours in lukewarm or cold water before they are given a second cooking. All of the beans are treaded underfoot, dehulled, rinsed, and returned to the caldron in this way. Variation 3: Immersed Basket Method: This method

After repeating the process of mixing and floating off the hulls two more times, he carries the basket of dehulled beans back onto the river bank, pours the beans into a 20-gallon washing tank made from a cut-off steel drum, then rinses any beans left in the basket into the tank.

116

VARIATIONS

IN DEHULLING

is closely related to that using a stream except that it does not require the presence of a stream. A cement pool is filled with water to a depth of slightly less than the depth of the treading basket. (In the city of Malang, one such pool, used by many people at once, is 15 by 30 feet.) Baskets partially filled with pre-cooked beans are immersed in the water with only the rim above water and the beans treaded underfoot. The hulls are then skimmed off with a bamboo colander.

it.

of

the container, the beans are stirred, and then the water The process is poured off, carrying the hulls with repeated several times. stirring and pouring off Fig. 6.40 Pouring Off Hulls

off Hulls with Bamboo Colander

It

in

in

2.

7: a

Variations

Tempeh Containers and Incubation in

Incubating and Selling the Tempeh Variation Bags: The bags are first perforated by stacking Plastic 40 time on thick wooden board and piercing ice pick, awl, inch with intervals them plywood board with many regular sewing needle, the resulting holes should be nails driven through diameter. about 0.6 mm (0.2 inches) an

to

a 9%

in

it;

or

9% a

of

at

at a

to

Fig. 6.39 Rubbing Off Hulls by Hand

20

1:

The process of agitating and skimming is repeated 4 to 6 times until most of the hulls have been removed. Variation 5: Direct Pour-Off Method: About 10 gallons of pre-cooked soybeans are put in a watertight cutoff steel drum. Enough water is added to cover the beans and then the craftsman vigorously rubs them between his hands to dehull them.

or

of

in

on

is

Dehulling Before Cooking: some Variation tempeh production written by literature times said Western scholars that the beans are dehulled after they have been soaked but before they are cooked. Although we have enquired repeatedly, we have never heard seen such method being used. Modern Dehullers and Dehuller Separa Variation Chapter tors: See The Steam Cooker Plant 6:

Fig. 6.38 Skimming

After repeated rubbings, additional water is added to

is

Variation 4: Perforated Steel Drum Method: About 10 gallons of pre-cooked soybeans are placed in a cutoff steel drum, the bottom and lower sides of which are perforated with many small holes. Three to six gallons of water are added, then the craftsman steps in and treads the beans underfoot to dehull them. After 4 to 6 minutes of treading, the beans are transferred to a large soaking vat (without holes), which is filled with well water. The beans are agitated by stirring them with a paddle, then the hulls that float to the surface are skimmed off with a bamboo colander.

Fig. 6.41 Perforating Plastic Bags with Ice Pick

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

117

The inoculated soybeans on the cooling tray or in a large container (such as the cutoff steel drum shown below) are then scooped into a small container of predetermined size to suit the bag. The plastic bag is held over the large container and the beans are poured in, either directly or via a wide-mouthed funnel.

When about ten bags have been stacked and pressed in this way, they are then unstacked and placed side by side on incubation trays, which generally consist of bamboo or wooden frames covered with woven raffia or bamboo matting to allow some air circulation. Typical trays are 10 to 14 inches wide and 3% to 9 feet long.

Fig. 6.42 Filling Bags with Inoculated Beans

Fig. 6.44 Placing Bags on Incubation

The mouth of the bag is folded over to a width of about one inch and the seam is easily and inexpensively sealed by passing it slowly over a candle flame. The sealed bag filled with beans is placed on a board and its upper surface patted firmly with one hand, then pressed with a small board about the same size as the bag or with a special presser shaped like a mason's trowel. The bags are thereby flattened to a thickness of % to 1 inch. (In shops the bags are not pressed flat; the rounded center of a bag containing 1.1 pounds (500 gm] of beans may reach a thickness of almost 1% inches.) After the next bag is filled and sealed, it is placed atop the first bag and pressed flat. Fig. 6.43 Tamping Bags to Compress Beans

118

VARIATIONS

IN TEMPEH CONTAINERS

Trays

During the initial period of incubation, the trays are generally slid into racks or shelves, separated from each other by a vertical distance of 2% to 3% inches. Fig. 6.45 Sliding Long Incubation

Trays into Racks

a

to

in

Fig. 6.48 Wiping Moisture from Bags and Retamping During Incubation

Bags in Loosely Stacked Trays

Removed from the incubator, the trays bean-filled bags are then moved more open environment such racks located the shop about feet above the floor. open This environment prevents the development excessive heat which could interfere with proper tempeh development. Here the bags are allowed incubate for 20 hours more, giving total incubation time of 36 48 hours, after which time the tempeh ready be sold. a

a

to 24

to

of

7

in

to

Tempeh

Bags

in

Fig. 6.49 Incubating

in

to

is

Fig. 6.47 Incubating Bags in Tightly Stacked Trays

as

In other small shops the trays are lined with newsprint, the bags are stacked two deep on each tray, and the trays are stacked directly on top of one another as shown here, without being separated by blocks; the stack is then covered with plastic sheeting and heat develops very rapidly.

to

of

Fig. 6.46 Incubating

place, the second surface wiped dry and inverted patted pack the beans firmly. then with flat board some shops, however, the wiping, inverting and packing are omitted. In

In some smaller shops, the trays are stacked one atop the other, with wooden blocks at both ends used to separate them. The entire stack is then covered with 1 or 2 layers of gunny sacking to form an impromptu incubator, capable of trapping the heat developed during the initial stages of fermentation. A typical small scale incubator is shown below.

Overhead Racks

it.

The bags are generally left in the closely stacked trays or incubator for 12 to 24 hours before they are removed. In many shops, a dry towel is then used to wipe the surface of each bag free of any moisture that may have accumulated on The bags are then

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

119

In some shops, the bags of finished tempeh packed into a number of 5-gallon cans attached to a on the back of a bicycle. In one of his four cans, tempeh maker has put a bucket containing fresh immersed in water.

are rack this tofu

Fig. 6.50 Packing Tempeh into Bicycle Racks

He purchased the tofu from

a nearby shop and will sell it at the market together with his tempeh since both are popular, low-cost protein foods.

Fig. 6.51 Off

120

In some shops, a boy from the family will fill two baskets with the fresh tempeh, attach the baskets to both ends of a shoulder pole, and sell his wares along the streets or in the market. Fig. 6.52 Selling Tempeh in Baskets on Shoulder Poles

In some cases, a grandmother from the tempeh maker's family will load a woven bamboo tray with the tempeh, balance it adroitly atop her head, and go selling to houses in the neighborhood. Fig. 6.53 Grandmother Tray

to

Market

VARIATIONS

IN TEMPEH CONTAINERS

Selling Tempeh from Head-Carried

And in some cases it will be carried in slatted boxes or stacked trays suspended from the ends of shoulder poles.

Fig. 6.56 Method of Wrapping Tempeh Triangles in

Leaf

a Banana

Fig. 6.54 Carrying Tempeh to Market using Shoulder Poles

At the market, the tempeh is arranged on low tables and sold either in whole bags or sliced diagonally into smaller portions.

12

a

of or

%

of

in

of

is

A

at

of

a

of

or

to

in

to

of

18

to

at

or

all of

Variation 2: Incubating and Selling Tempeh in Banana Leaf Wrappers: Various shapes and sizes of leaf-wrapped tempeh packets are described in Chap ter 2 at The Tropical Village Shop; Tempeh Containers. The larger rectangles, described there, are prepared in Yogyakarta at the Tempeh Murni plant using the fol lowing method. Fresh, whole banana leaves (gathered locally or purchased at the market) are arranged in a stack 1 to 2 inches thick and perforated with an ice pick at intervals of about 9% to 1 inch. They are then cut crosswise into lengths of about 12 inches. Five or six such rectangles are arranged on a low table as shown in Figure 6.57 (next page) so that the leaves over lap the central area but one more leaves protrude give rectangle about on each end inches wide and inches long. The use more than one two leaves provides keep insulation the heat incubation and gives prevent its breaking the packet added strength during transit. About 3.4 ounces (97 grams) cup (180 cc) inoculated beans are measured out with small cup and placed the center the leaf rectangle. First both sides and then both ends are folded over to compact packet. paper form small piece indicating the name the maker inserted one end. a

Fig. 6.55 Selling Tempeh in a Javanese Market

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

121

Fig. 6.57 Wrapping Inoculated Soybeans in Banana Leaves (Tempeh Murni)

The packets are placed on the shelves with the folded ends of the leaves facing down and arranged in a lapped stack as shown below. (In some shops the packets are packed in woven bamboo baskets and incubated covered with a gunny sack, which keeps the temperature at about 30°C or 86°F.)

Fig. 6.59 Lapped Stacks

§§§§§s Along one wall of the shop's wrapping room are a series of floor to ceiling incubation shelves made of metal (or bamboo) frames covered with 1-inch-wide bamboo slats having a spacing of about 1 inch between slats. Fig. 6.58 Incubating Banana Leaf Packets

The packets are left untouched on the shelves and allowed to incubate at the natural air temperature for 36 to 48 hours, depending on whether they were wrapped early or late in the day. Early in the morning of the day that they are ready, they are removed from the racks, packed loosely into slatted bamboo crates (to prevent overheating) and, in the case of this shop, sold door to door to customers who appreciate the finest quality soy tempeh. A single cake wholesales for about 3.6 cents (U.S.) and retails for 4.8 cents, which is the equivalent of $0.27 a pound. The smaller sized leaf-wrapped packets of tempeh made in other shops are usually sold in the colorful marketplace, where they are spread on mats and a few are unwrapped and placed as samples on a large banana leaf. Most customers buy ten packets at a time for about $0.12 (U.S.) or the equivalent of $0.22 a pound.

Fig. 6.60 Selling Traditional Banana-Leaf Wrapped Tempeh in Yogyakarta Market

122

VARIATIONS

IN TEMPEH CONTAINERS

In West Java, the banana leaves are used in a different way. At the tempeh shop the inoculated beans are spread in a rectangle about 6 by 20 inches in the center of a large banana leaf. A second leaf is placed firmly atop the beans and pressed down at the edges to seal out air. The resulting tempeh is shaped somewhat like a Quonset hut, rounded at the center and about 1 inch thick, then tapering to an edge at the sides as shown below. It is sold at the markets in this form.

Stahel (1946) reported that in Surinam round cakes of tempeh 12 inches in diameter are prepared on special occasions and cultured between Ischnosiphon leaves on a slightly concave bamboo tray called a “tampa.”

Fig. 6.63 Tempeh Incubated

in a Round Tray

in Surinam

(Source: Stahel 1946)

Fig. 6.61 Rounded Tempeh Incubated in Banana Leaves

rena

In West Java some shops use a series of overlapping banana leaves held together by pieces of bamboo cut like toothpicks to form single long packets 4 to 6 inches wide and roughly 8 feet long.

Stahel also included a photograph in his article showing tempeh being packaged for incubation in an Ischnosiphon leaf wrapper.

Fig. 6.62 Eight-Foot-Long Packets of Tempeh Fig. 6.64 Tempeh Incubated

in Ichnosiphon

Leaves (Stahel

1946)

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The packets of finished tempeh arranged bamboo tray are shown in Figure 6.65.

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

on

123

a

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Table

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3:// **º-ºº: "º

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3º4 :=#52

MALANG TEMPEH (MALANG,

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Fig. 6.67 Leaf Wrapped Tempeh Packets

ſº

Fig. 6.65 Leaf Wrapped Tempeh in Surinam (Stahel 1946)

JAVA)

Tempeh

Indonesian tempehs, this variety

is

The aristocrat

of

Makes 86 Pounds

of

Middle Level Indonesian Caldron Plant

of

to

is

is

is

or

of

as

as

in

A

a

a

of

be

of

in

an

a

go

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Banana

Leaves

of

preparation regular soy somewhat similar that tempeh up the stage inoculation and incubation, except that the soaking period and prefermentation between the two cookings often omitted relatively short, and the beans are cooled and dried for relatively long time. Thereafter, the process unique and well suited for large-scale production. Thus, we will discuss the first half the process only briefly, emphasizing key points, then into detailed illustrated discussion of the latter half. The fact that important role banana leaves play the incubation technique does not mean, necessarily, that this type tempeh could not made areas such North America, where such leaves are not generally available. perforated plastic sheeting The combined use liner and gunny sacking for insulation would probably good substitute. make flowchart for the Malang tempeh process looks like this: to is

Wrapping Tempeh Rectangles

of

Fig. 6.66 Method

in

if

or

In

its

For small tempeh cakes (1% by 4 by % inch thick), only two banana leaf rectangles are generally used; one is 14 by 6 inches and the other 12 by 4 inches is placed atop the large leaf at center. the case such small cakes thin banana leaves are used, the leaves are often left unperforated.

C of

of

in

of as

in

firm, thick, and white, being made and sold large Appendix pieces, professional described the Tempeh. The method edition The Book

Dry soybeans 66 pounds)

Cool

| to

First boil 60 minutes)

air temperature)

Inoculate mill)

Incubate

in

(underfoot

or in

Drain and Dehull tables

10 hours)

Float off hulls

of

124

MALANG TEMPEH

banana detail

at

in

a

is

to

of

using The special method “sandwich" leaves make Malang tempeh described the end this chapter.

Incubate under pressure (22 hours)

of

Second boil

Finished tempeh

There are some important possible variations in the process; at the Manan B. Samun shop in Bogor (see The Book of Tempeh, Professional Edition, Appendix F) we observed the following; the beans were washed before the first boil; the first boil took only 20 minutes; after the hulls were floated off, the beans were given a short soak-and-prefermentation of 4 to 6 hours in fairly hot water; the second boil in the soak water took only 40 minutes. Since there was no communal dehulling pond nearby, the beans were treaded in baskets on the sloping brick floor of the dehulling room (located adjacent to the shop) and the hulls floated off in a water-filled concrete washing tank, 4% feet square and 18 inches deep, located in one corner of the same room. The quality of the tempeh was excellent. In the village of Sanan north of Malang there is a group of more than 25 shops known as the Malang Tempeh Cooperative. A few of the producers use stone mill dehullers with a single 12-inch-diameter movable stone, while others dehull their beans by treading them underwater in a shallow communal pool. The relatively cool and very pure air in Malang is considered to be a key factor in the production of the fine tempeh. In the method described here, the tempeh is made by a master with the help of two or three assistants, in this case his wife and two daughters. One batch is prepared daily and harvested two days later.

number of woven bamboo baskets, which are carried to the nearby communal dehulling pool. At about 6:30 the master's wife tucks up her dress and wades into the communal pond which is generally about 15 inches deep and 10 to 20 feet in diameter. Most ponds are completely natural, formed only by earth, but a few are surrounded by a brick wall or lined with concrete. Well water enters at one side and flows out at the other side through a small opening channel over which is placed a bamboo screen to catch the hulls. At the end of each day the hulls are removed and used for cattle fodder. The wife first washes her feet in the 25°C (77°F) water, then places the bean-filled basket on one of the many small raised platforms 4 to 6 inches below the water surface, steps barefoot into the basket, and treads the beans underfoot for about 5 minutes, or until they are dehulled. Fig. 6.69 Underwater

View

of Pond Dehulling

66 pounds (30 kg) American 2

grown soybeans hibiscus leaves with sporulated Rhizopus mold spores attached to them (see Chapter 9)

The First Day

At 4:00 A.M. the master measures out the soybeans and cooks them for 60 minutes in excess water indoors over a wood fire in a steel drum-can caldron 14% inches in diameter and 21% inches deep. Using a perforated cone-shaped scoop attached to a wooden handle, he drains and transfers the beans from the caldron into a Fig. 6.68 Dehulling (Malang)

Beans

Underfoot

in Communal

Pond She then pours the dehulled beans into a bamboo flotation tray 3 feet in diameter and 1% inches deep. Still standing in the pool, she proceeds to float off the hulls. First she immerses the tray just to the rim so that it fills with water; the hulls float to the surface. With her right hand she splashes water from outside the tray into the area where the hulls are floating, in order to wash them to the far side of the tray. To help float more beans to the surface, she rotates the tray about one third of a turn, while tilting the far corner several inches below the water surface. Finally, she gives the tray a quick pull toward her so that the floating hulls (and a few floating beans) are floated out of the tray and slowly sink to the bottom of the pool. Stirring the beans occasionally, she repeats this cycle of splashing, rotating, and pulling back the tray 10 to 12 times until

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

125

as

of

a

he

in

of

against the palms his two hands, somewhat one Then, might hold two potholders. motion resembling that washing hands, vigorously rubs the freshly cooled beans between the two leaves for about minute. 1

almost all the hulls have been floated off. Any remaining hulls, she carefully picks out by hand. Now she pours the beans from the round flotation tray back into an empty basket. Fig. 6.70 Floating off Hulls

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126

MALANG TEMPEH

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Now mixes the beans together for minute more, tossing them with both hands lightly into the air over the tray. large The inoculated beans will incubated traylike incubation table lined with perforated banana leaves. The table feet 10% inches long, 24% inches wide, and has sides 2% inches deep. The bottom made of 1-inch-wide bamboo slats that run lengthwise and are spaced inch apart. The shop contains two such tables, each of which stands about 38 inches tall; they are filled alternate days. some shops, 20-inch diameter trays (called tampahs) are used place the incubation tables. in

all

She proceeds to dehull the beans this way, then carries them back the shop. Combining the dehulled beans the caldron with excess water, she now gives them second cooking for minutes. They are then 5-foot-diameter, 6-inch drained and transferred deep cooling tray, which set on table next small electric fan. The beans are mixed from time time aid cooling and evaporation excess moisture. The fan hours, depending run for the weather, until the beans are cooled air temperature (25°C; 77°F) and well dried.

Beans with Inoculum

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Fig. 6.72 Inoculating

Fig. 6.76 Pouring Inoculated Beans onto Tables

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To perforate the banana leaves (a variety called batu, which are picked fresh that day near the shop or purchased in the market), the master arranges 15 to 20 at a time in a neat stack and folds the stack in half end to end. Sitting on a workbench and placing the bundle before him, he uses an icepick to perforate the leaves 3/4-inch intervals. Banana Leaves with Ice Pick

Using one hand, the master smooths the beans over the entire area form uniform layer 1.4 inches (3.5 cm) deep.

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MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

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second identical layer placed on the then third smooth side facing down. The inoculated beans are cooling tray baskets and the incubation table.

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The beans are now covered with a layer of perforated banana leaves having the smooth sides up. The edges of the bottom layers of banana leaves sticking up around the sides of the table are folded over and the beans are covered with two more layers of leaves, each smooth side down. The beans are allowed to incubate at room temperature (25°C; 77°F) overnight for about 10 hours.

Leaves atop Tempeh

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Fig. 6.78 Closeup of Hand

The Third Day

At about 4:00 A.M. the master removes the bricks

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measuring and upper layer banana leaves. Using board about feet long, 2% inches wide, and 3/8 inch thick, and sharp pointed knife, cuts the tempeh lengthwise into strips about 5% inches wide. He then uses similar board inches long cut crosswise into 14-inch-wide strips. a

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Fig. 6.81 Cutting Tempeh

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The Second Day

128

MALANG TEMPEH

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At about 6:00 A.M., after cooking the day's soybeans, the master covers the surface of the banana leaves on top of the tempeh with a single layer of about 70 bricks, spaced 9% to 1 inch apart on sides allow permeate the leaves. The some air continue day and night for about incubation then continues hours.

The master and his wife carry the tempeh-filled boxes to a nearby road. The master hails a microbus, loads on the tempeh, and is off to market. If all goes well, he will have sold it by noon and be back help with the afternoon work. The wife stays home attend the dehulling and second cooking the next soybeans. batch of to

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Fig. 6.82 A Piece of Cut Malang Tempeh

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Fig. 6.84 Taking Malang Tempeh

Market

Each day's production of tempeh (1 tableful) yields about 48 cakes, each 7 by 13 by 1 inch thick and weighing 28.6 ounces (810 gm). The cakes at the edges of the table are as thick as 1% inches; the mycelium is densest and whitest within 4 inches of the sides of the table and somewhat sparser near the table's center. Sold whole, or cut into halves or quarters, a typical piece retailed in the Bogor market in 1977 for $0.48 (U.S.) or the equivalent of $0.27 per pound.

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The master packs the cut tempeh pieces carefully into a slatted wooden box or a cardboard box, preferably with holes in the sides; the slats or holes provide good air circulation, which prevents overheat 1ng.

MAKING TEMPEH IN INDONESIA

129

A MODERN INDONESIAN TEMPEH PILOT PLANT (YOGYAKARTA)

MALAYSIAN TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Makes 385 Pounds of Tempeh a Day

Introduced by Javanese settlers to Malaysia, this process has a number of distinctive points including the 48-hour soak-prefermentation and the use of wheat flour to absorb moisture during drying. The following description is from Ms. Q.L. Yeoh (1977). Soybeans are washed, soaked in excess water for 24 hours, rewashed, and resoaked in excess fresh water for 24 more hours. They are now boiled in the soak water for 1 hour, dehulled by hand, then drain-dried and allowed to cool to body temperature. To dry the beans thoroughly before inoculation, some manufac turers roll them in a piece of cloth and mix in a little wheat flour to absorb excess moisture and serve as a carbohydrate source for mold growth. They are then inoculated with powdered tempeh from a previous batch and/or with a mixed-culture Rhizopus starter grown on rambai (Baccaurea motleyana) leaves used to wrap the tempeh. The spores adhering to the leaves are scraped off and used. The mat used for mixing, cooling, and inoculating the beans is never washed and therefore becomes an additional source of inoculum. The inoculated beans are then wrapped tightly in 2 or 3 layers of leaves, usually banana (Musa sapientum) but species, also Dellinia rambai (see above), and Ketapang (Terminalia catappa). They are then tied into small packets (typically 2% by 8 by % inch) and the packets are stacked in a pile, which is covered with a gunny sack. The incubation usually takes 24 to 40 hours.

A description of the development of this method and the equipment is given at the end of Chapter 2 under the same title as above. A flowchart outlining the process is show here. The numbers in parentheses are the numbers of the pieces of equipment described in Chapter 2. Dry soybeans (100 kg per 8-hour day) Clean soybeans (1) Soak beans (optional; 2) (2 to 6 hours)

First boil

(3)

(30 min. at 100°C) Drain and dehull (4)

wº-

Remove hulls (5) (6)

Soak beans if cooker full (optional; 7) Second boil (3) (30 min at 100°C) Drain and Cool (8) (to body or room temperature) Inoculate with Rhizopus oligosporus (8) (10gm powdery inoculant per 1 kg of dry soybeans) Put in trays lined with perforated plastic (9) Incubate (36 to 48 hours at room temperature; 25-30°C) Finished tempeh Sun-dry on screen trays

130

MALAYSIAN TEMPEH

Mythical Indonesian

Figure

7

Making Specialty TempehS

hroughout this book we have used the word tempeh to refer to soy tempeh. However tempeh can be made from many other foodstuffs beside soybeans, including other beans and legumes, grains, okara (soy pulp from tofu or soymilk production), oilseed presscake residues, and various mixtures of these. Methods for making fifty different types of specialty tempehs on a home kitchen scale are given on pages 110 to 114 of The Book of Tempeh. Some of our favorite specialty tempehs include peanut (or peanut & soy) tempeh, millet (or millet & soy) tempeh, rice & soy tempeh, wheat & soy tempeh, whole-wheat-noodle tempeh, okara tempeh, and soy & okara tempeh. There are at least two good reasons for making specialty tempehs in addition to obtaining foods with new and unique flavors and textures. First, tempeh made with a combination of soy (or other legumes) and a grain has more protein than the total protein in each of the individual foods, due to the principal of protein complementarity. The addition of sesame seeds further enhances the amount of usable protein. . . and the flavor. Second, many food residues, such as okara and oilseed presscakes, which would otherwise be discard fodder, can be easily ed or used for livestock transformed into tasty, nutritious, low-cost tempeh. The following are basic types of specialty tempehs. We list our three favorites within each type, in order of preference. Since most of these are not yet made commercially in North America, we are unable to give production details other than those already described in The Book of Tempeh. Please keep us informed of your attempts to make these products on a commercial scale.

Four Types of Tempeh

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SPECIALTY SOY TEMPEHS Try recipes for presalted tempeh, preseasoned coriander & garlic tempeh, one-bean-thick tempeh,

black soybean tempeh, high-fiber high yield tempeh, and overripe tempeh as described on page 110 of The Book of Tempeh. Noznick and Lucas (1970) patented a method for making powdered tempeh as follows: Soak whole soybeans overnight in water. Grind beans with their hulls on to make a slurry containing 10 percent solids. If desired, homogenize. Sterilize by running slurry through a heat exchanger at 275°F (135°C) for 15 seconds. Place sterilized slurry in a fermentation tank and inoculate with tempeh starter. Stir constantly for 24 hours while aerating with 2.5 volumes of air per volume of slurry. Pasteurize to destroy the mold, then spray

131

strain NRRL 2710, available from the Northern Regional Research Center in Peoria, Illinois.

OKARA TEMPEH

OTHER LEGUME TEMPEHS

foods. Try our home-scale method in The Book of Tempeh (p. 112). Ligget (1976) added sesame seeds to soy tempeh which raised the level of methionine, the first limiting amino acid, and gave the product a meaty flavor. He reported that products with the color, flavor, and texture of ground beef patties, simulated Canadian bacon, beef jerky, or shrimp can be produced by adding seasonings, colorings, and/or other ingredients before and/or during the fermentation process.

GRAINTEMPEHS Our three favorites are millet tempeh, rice tempeh, and barley tempeh. All grain tempehs should be Rhizopus oligosporus inoculated with low-amylase

132

SPECIALTY TEMPEHS

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Our three favorites are soy okara tempeh, brown rice okara tempeh, and bulgur wheat okara tempeh. These are also good ways using leftover Pennsylvania okara. The Kirpalu Yoga Retreat makes commercial bulgur okara tempeh. The flavor reported plain okara tempeh. better than that

is

Our favorites are millet & soy tempeh, rice & soy tempeh, and pearl barley & soy tempeh. The Indonesian Tempeh Company in Nebraska makes a popular bulgur wheat & soy tempeh. The most difficult part of making regular wheat & soy tempeh is dehulling the wheat. Actually, it is only necessary to abrade the wheat. Set a stone or steel-plate mill as wide open as possible without leaving unabraded or uncracked kernels. Gear down the speed to reduce the fines. Sift off the fines for use as a cereal and/or flour. Save the wheat cooking (or steaming) water for use in other

of

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GRAIN (OR SEED) & SOY TEMPEHS

is

and inoculate with tempeh starter. Incubate at room temperature (18-25°C or 65-77°F) for 48 hours. The Indonesian Tempeh Company in Nebraska makes pinto bean tempeh which is nice, unfried, in soups. Winged bean tempeh is good for use in tropical areas.

Okara tempeh is an excellent product that enables tofu shops or soy dairies to utilize their leftover okara (soy pulp). Our basic home-scale method given on page 114 of The Book of Tempeh also works well on a commercial scale. For good results it is very important to use well-pressed okara, whose moisture content has been reduced from the usual 85 to 90 percent down to below 80 percent. Okara is an excellent source of dietary fiber (14.8% dry weight basis), protein (32%), and oil (20%). Hackler et (1963) reported that okara contains higher quality protein measured by rat growth and protein efficiency ratio than whole soybeans, full-flat soy flour, soymilk, tofu. The Farm Tennessee reports having made fifty pounds okara tempeh five days week for six months; was very popular among those consuming Okara tempeh during deep-frying tends absorb little more oil than tempeh. Tempeh can also other types made from Tempeh, professional defatted soy meal (see Book edition, page 162) and from the presscakes peanuts, mung beans, and cottonseeds. The Indonesian method for making okara onchom, which almost the same that used for making okara tempeh, given on page 210 the professional edition The Book of Tempeh. in

Our three favorites are peanut tempeh, peanut & soy tempeh, and garbanzo (chickpea) tempeh. Gomez and Kothary (1979) developed a method for making red kidney bean tempeh as follows: Wash the beans and soak overnight at room temperature. Loosen the hulls by either (1) dipping in a dilute lye solution (1% NaOH), followed by an acid dip and water rinse or (2) steaming for 5 minutes followed by immediate immersion in cold water. Then dehull mechancially with an abrasion peeler. If such a peeler is not available, use pretreatment (2) above, then dehull by rubbing the beans vigorously by hand under a stream of water. Boil dehulled beans for 20 minutes, drain, cool,

of

dry, roller dry, tray dry, or freeze-dry to form powdered tempeh. Use as a high-protein ingredient in breads or other baked goods.

8

Quantity Tempeh Recipes

&

the SOy Deli

he first rule and guiding principle for introducing a foreign food (such as tempeh) into any culture is to present it in a form with which the people are familiar. Thus Ameri cans can rightfully be expected to be much more receptive to Tempeh Burgers, Tempeh Lettuce & Tomato Sandwiches, or Sloppy Joe Tempeh than to a plain cake of mycelium-covered soybeans. One of the first places to grasp this principle and apply it creatively was a soyfoods deli in Rochester, New York, called The Tofu Shop, which obtained its tempeh from a sister tempeh producing company, Northern Soy. The Tofu Shop has kindly sent us their quantity recipes for Sloppy Joe Tempeh, Temptation, Tempeh Reuben, Tempeh Sandwich with Tartar Sauce, Tempeh Salad and/or Sandwich, and Tempeh Stroganoff, Tempeh Pot Pie, and Tempeh Cacciatore, all of which are given in this chapter. A list of our favorite tempeh recipes is given on page 50 of The Book of Tempeh; any of these could be easily scaled up for commercial use. The cost of starting a soy deli depends on the size, location, and the amount of your equipment you can obtain used. In 1979 The Tofu Shop in Rochester got into business for between $15,000 and $18,000; their seating space is small (about 200 square feet) and most of their equipment was purchased used. Within 9 months their weekly sales averaged $1,800 a week. Good Earth Restaurants, a natural food chain in Cali fornia, estimated their lowest cost to get started at $325,000 including $150,000 for furniture, fixtures, and equipment, $75,000 for leasehold improvements, and $100,000 for other startup costs. The various ready-to-eat preparations made from tempeh can be grouped into two basic types: those

which are served soon after they are prepared, as at your restaurant or soy deli, and do not require packaging, and those which are packaged and sold later elsewhere, as at other restaurants, natural food stores, or supermarkets. The latter products must generally be produced on a larger scale and processed in some way (as by freezing, drying, deep-frying, etc.) to extend their shelf life. Such products might include Tempeh with Tomato & Herb Sauce sold frozen or refrigerated, or in a retort pouch, boilable bag, or can; refrigerated Tempeh Filled Pot Stickers (vegetarian); canned or bottled Sloppy Joe Tempeh sauce, and the like. Tempeh recipes can also be grouped into those which are fried and those which are not. In Indonesia, a majority of the tempeh recipes (both for home and commercial use) call for deep-frying, as do a majority of the tempeh recipes in The Book of Tempeh. Frying is considered a good cooking technique for various reasons: (1) it makes tempeh a ready-to-eat food with a delicious rich and savory flavor; (2) by partially sterilizing the food and reducing its moisture content, it increases the storage life; (3) it takes less time and uses much less fuel than baking; and (4) it serves as a source of essential (usually unsaturated) oils in the diet. Typical Americans, who eat a standard diet overloaded with meat and dairy products, consume much too much fat. However vegetarians who eat little or no dairy products rarely need to concern themselves with problems of too much fat consumption or with eating fried foods. Some Westerners still have the image of deep- or shallow-fried foods as being necessarily “greasy," yet this is simply a result of poor technique. Good technique yields delicacies that are as crisp and light as Indonesian Crisp Tempeh Chips or Japanese

133

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Indonesia, tempeh chips Called Keripik Tempeh semiperishable food. The are widely sold there tempeh cut into 1/8-inch thick, 4-inch squares, dipped seasoned batter, then deep-fried. Thirty chips are packed cellophane poly bag and sold for about $0.34. Unrefrigerated, they have shelf life slightly about month, after which time they develop bitter flavor, but are still quite acceptable. basic recipe with variations given Tempeh, The Book page 78. a

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Combine the marinade ingredients shallow bowl tempeh slices, then drain small pan, mixing well. Dip briefly on absorbent (paper) toweling rack, patting surface lightly absorb excess moisture and thus prevent spattering during frying. Heat 350°F large skillet, wok, deep-fryer. Slide (170°C) tempeh and shallow-fry for deep-fry minutes minutes, until crisp and nicely browned. Then for drain briefly on fresh absorbent toweling and serve immediately. For variety, add 1/8 teaspoon cumin the marinade.

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cup water teaspoons salt teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon garlic powder clove crushed garlic ounces tempeh deep-frying Oil for shallow-

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We and generations Indonesian cooks have experimented with many natural seasoning combina tions find the best one use with deeptempeh. agree shallow-fried All that coriander and garlic the most delicious. Try also experimenting curry, lemon, etc. with other combinations such page Tempeh. simpler, listen The Book close relative this crisp tempeh Seasoned Crisp Tempeh, which seasoned with only salt water (Book Tempeh, page 54). Some commercial producers find they dry the tempeh (at 275°F that 135°C for minutes) just before deep-frying, then deep-fry relatively high temperature for short time (392°F seconds), they get longer storage 200°C for life. Crisp tempeh can be sold refrigerated frozen tubs sealed poly bags. The refrigerated shelf life roughly days. or

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Garlic Crisp Tempeh

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134

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Tempura. Others have stated that fried foods are hard to digest; yet if the foods are prepared properly (crisp and light) and are served in moderate portions (typically 1 to 3 ounces per person per meal), they are generally found to be easily digested, much more easily than meats and most dairy products. Finally, it is pointed out that overheating deep-frying can impair nutritional value and saturate some simply the fats; these problems are easily avoided keeping the oils well below their smoke point, frying foods until they are nicely browned but not until any filtering the charring takes place, through fine sieve after each use, and not using the more than two three times. For basic instructions on principles proper deep-frying see page The Book Tempeh. Most commercial cooks thaw their tempeh deep-fried before deep-frying however can while still frozen. Each oil has three important upper limit tempera tures; the smoke, flash, and fire points. important any you are using, that know the smoke point begins give off thin the temperature which the bluish smoke. Smoke points for widely used refined oils, descending order temperature, are: soy 492°F (256°C); cottonseed oil 451°F (233°C); corn oil 440°F (227°C), and olive oil 391°F (199°C). We have get data safflower, peanut, rapeseed been unable imparts coconut oils. Highly saturated, coconut wonderful flavor and has smoke point above 400°F (204°C). Most deep-frying done 350°F (175°C) which, will be seen, far below the smoke point for deep-fry the above oils. Some cooks prefer 392°F (200°C), which still leaves wide margin safety for oils except olive. The smoke point lard shortenings and are low: 365°F (185°C) and 400°F (204°C) respectively. After each use, the smoke point drops average 16°F (9°C) and the percentage free fatty acids simultaneously increases. Most soy delis and restaurants prefer shallow frying (including pan frying, griddle frying, and steam frying) deep-frying since the latter, although gives tastier requires results and much quicker, generally expensive deep-frying and fire extinguishing equip ment and insurance, plus periodic inspections health deep-fryer, hood, exhaust fan, and 1980, officials. automatic extinguisher cost about $5,000. preparing tempeh that do Some the tastier ways require frying sauteing not include baking (Baked Tempeh Tomato Sauce, Delectable Tempeh Lasagna), simmering sauce (Sloppy Joe Tempeh, Tempeh with Nutritional Yeast Gravy), steaming mashing (Creamy Tempeh Dip, and then pureeing Tempeh Mock Tuna Spread). Recipes parentheses Tempeh. are given our Book The following recipes are given with those that we personally feel would most popular and successful the West listed first. The first two recipes may also be thought basic preparatory techniques.

Butter-Fried Tempeh

Move over Big Mac Here comes the Tempeh Burger. The basic preparation is given in The Book of Tempeh, page 61. A number of natural food restaurants

Quick, easy, and all-American, this recipe nice sandwiches, burgers, served entree used like ham with eggs.

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large wok large skillet and coat with Heat tablespoons oil. Add chopped onions and peppers, and saute for 10 15 minutes, until onions are translucent. Remove from heat and set aside. tempeh briefly garlic Marinate coriander large skillet and coat with the marinade. Heat remaining tablespoons oil. Add uncut tempeh cakes and fry on each side for about minutes (10 minutes nicely browned. Remove tempeh total) until tempeh from skillet and cut into /*-inch squares. Now add tempeh and remaining ingredients vegetables wok and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Be careful; burns easily. Serve each portion over warm, open-faced whole-wheat bun. Makes 50 60 servings. gallons. Sauce makes about 5

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Garlic Crisp Tempeh above) pounds (18 cups) canned tomatoes cups tomato paste tablespoons salt tablespoons shoyu (natural soy sauce) tablespoons prepared (wet) mustard tablespoons chili powder cup cider vinegar tablespoons honey tablespoons molasses 50 to 60 whole-wheat bun halves

Marinade for Coriander

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First introduced the Farm Foods delicatessen California; the tempeh this TLT adds the savoriness bacon, plus the richness and crispness cheese. Our given page favorite recipe The Book Tempeh. Green chilies make nice addition. on

tablespoons soy oil onions chopped green peppers, chopped 4% pounds tempeh

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tablespoons butter Heat skillet. Add sliced tempeh and fry for about minutes, until nicely browned one side. Turn, add the remaining tablespoon butter, and fry for minutes more. Serve topped with sprinkling shoyu.

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are already serving this hefty meal with good results. Gale Randall of the Indonesian Tempeh Company protein soy & wheat makes high complementary tempeh burger mix as follows: Bring 14 cups water to a boil. Add 5 pounds of tempeh and blanch for 15 minutes, then remove from water and drain. Mash 12 cups of wheat, then combine wheat and tempeh cooking water in a commercial blender and blend at high speed for 15 seconds, then transfer contents of blender to a steam pan (with holes in bottom and sides) and drain for 5 to 10 minutes; catch and reserve the liquid. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a pressure canner. Place steam pan containing wheat inside canner raised several inches off the bottom; bring pressure to 10 pounds, then remove wheat from canner and combine with the minced tempeh, reserved liquid from wheat, and canner water in a pan. Stir in 4 cups whole wheat flour. Bag in 1-pound bags, label, and freeze. Customers can add seasonings to taste, shape into patties, and fry at home.

is

Tempeh Burger

QUANTITY TEMPEH RECIPES

135

Temptation (Tempeh

One of our very favorite recipes, this is described on page 66 of The Book of Tempeh. A close nonfried relative is a tasty casserole, Baked Tempeh & Tomato Sauce (page 69). Both recipes are delicious served over brown rice or noodles. As mentioned above, they may also be sold in a retort pouch, bottle, or can.

pocket The Temptation consists warm pita bread stuffed with seasoned crisp tempeh, sprouts, and grated cabbage, then topped with delectable, thick filling dressing. ingredients Russian Other that nicely with the tempeh are diced tomatoes, sliced mushrooms, green onions, and torn lettuce leaves. See page Tempeh. also our recipe The Book

Tempeh Cacciatore

Pita bread, warmed and sliced crosswise

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% cup dry white wine % to 1 cup soy, corn, or safflower oil, for frying 5 to 6 large cloves of garlic, diced or crushed 10 tablespoons olive oil % cup oregano (dried flakes) 9 cups crushed canned tomatoes 2% teaspoons salt

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Tempeh Salad and/or Sandwich

2% pounds tempeh, steamed for one hour, then diced

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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teaspoons Combine the first six ingredients and tablespoons) paprika; mix well. Top with sprinkling teaspoon paprika. Serve the remaining cold salad, on whole-grain bread with alfalfa sprouts gallon and tomato sandwich. Makes servings.

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Marinate tempeh briefly in 94 cup wine. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add tempeh and shallow fry for 5 to 7 minutes on each side until nicely browned, then cut into 1-inch squares and set aside. Heat the olive separate skillet. Add garlic and saute for minutes. cup Add oregano plus the wine and any wine left over from marinating the tempeh. Let alcohol fizz and evaporate out for few seconds. Mix tomatoes, salt, and the cooked tempeh and simmer for minutes. Serve over brown rice or as side dish. Serves day. 18. Flavor improves after recipe, only cup oregano and To double the use teaspoons salt; double everything else.

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32 ounces tempeh, uncut 8-ounce cakes

make two pockets cup alfalfa sprouts Dressing cups) Russian (makes soymilk 2% cups mayonnaise, preferably tofu mayo 1% cups tomato paste, canned (unseasoned) cups oil cup cider vinegar tablespoons honey tablespoon salt 1% teaspoons paprika 1% teaspoons onion powder Coriander Garlic Crisp Tempeh (see above) grated Red cabbage, chopped %

Cacciatore is the Italian word for “hunter.” The typical preparation calls for veal or chicken cooked with tomatoes, herbs, and sometimes wine. A close relative of our Savory Tempeh in Tomato & Herb Sauce, above.

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tablepoons curry powder teaspoon cayenne onions, minced pounds tempeh, cut into /*-inch cubes pounds tofu, crumbled tablespoons salt tablespoons shoyu (natural soy sauce)

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large wok. Add curry and cayenne, and minute. Add onions and saute for to until soft. Add tempeh cubes and saute for Mix tofu and salt, simmer for minutes sprinkle on shoyu. Nice hot cold, served over brown rice, sauce with stuffed pita bread. Heat the saute for minutes, minutes. more, then

Tempeh Baked Beans Boston Style

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restaurants, this preparation could also be Nice mass marketed canned vegetarian entree. as a

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To prepare the sauce, combine the first four sauce ingredients in a deep heavy pot, mixing well, then stir in the water until no lumps remain. Heat over low-medium flame, stirring constantly burns easily), until thick. Then whisk the oil, horseradish, and mustard. Set aside warm place. Marinate and deep-fry tempeh. shallowthe Drain and set aside briefly. To make one sandwich, spread two slices the bread with the mayonnaise, then top with 2-ounce slice (quarter cake) the browned tempeh. Pile on some sauerkraut, pour warm sauce over the top, and cover complete the sandwich. with another slice bread Serve with slice dill pickle on the side. slightly different, smaller scale recipe given Tempeh. The Book a

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Curried Tempeh

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(see above). Pumpernickel (or rye) bread Mayonnaise, preferably tofu or soymilk mayo Sauerkraut (organically grown, naturally fermented) Dill pickle

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Nutritional yeast sauce: 6 cups nutritional yeast flakes 2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour 2 tablespoons salt or 8 to 12 tablespoons red or barley miso 1 tablespoon garlic powder 3 quarts water 3 cups soy oil 1% teaspoons horseradish 13% tablespoons prepared (wet) mustard One 8-ounce cake of tempeh, quartered and thawed, dipped in seasoning solution, and shallow- or deep-fried to make Coriander & Garlic Crisp Tempeh

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marinade, dust with the flour, and fry for minutes till both sides are nicely browned. Spread the bread with the tartar sauce, then top with lettuce, bed 2-ounce slice the cooked tempeh, more tartar sauce, sprouts, minced parsley, and finally with another slice bread. Serve with lemon- wedge on the side. in

Dip tempeh

Tempeh Reuben

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Combine all ingredients, mixing well. Transfer four lightly oiled baking pans and bake 350°F (175°C) for 20 minutes. Serve side dish, main dish over rice. Serves 30 35. to

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tempeh, quartered and thawed One 8-ounce cake Marinade: tablespoons shoyu (natural soy sauce) tablespoons lemon juice cup water cup rice flour whole-wheat pastry flour

7% pounds tempeh, shallow fried, then cut into /*-inch cubes 2% cups minced onions 2% cups catsup (or Johnson's Table Sauce, made with honey) tablespoons unsulphured molasses tablespoons shoyu (natural soy sauce) tablespoons (rice wine) vinegar tablespoons prepared (wet) mustard tablespoons curry powder cups water teaspoons salt 1%

15 to

Tempeh Sandwich with Tartar Sauce (Tempeh Fishwich)

QUANTITY TEMPEH RECIPES

137

Tempeh Lumpia (Spring Rolls) Lumpia, one of the most delicious and popular entrees from the Philippines, resembles Chinese Spring Rolls, Japanese Harumaki, or similar prepara tions from Malaysia and Vietnam; a pork or shrimp filling (sometimes with peanuts or bean sprouts) in a delicate flour- or egg-white-and-flour wrapper, folded into a snug packet and either deep-fried until crunchy and golden brown, or served fresh and uncooked in the tender wrapper. In the Philippines, deep-fried lumpia is a daily food usually prepared with ready-made storebought wrappers and served accompanied by a dipping thin vinegar-garlic-and-salt sauce. Fresh lumpia is usually served on special occasions; the wrappers are homemade to ensure tenderness, and a thick sweet-and-sour sauce is used for dipping. Lumpia wrappers are sold at most Philipino and many Oriental food stores, or you can make them yourself; the process is very similar to making crepes. Substituting tempeh for the usual meat gives an outstanding vegetarian entree.

To make the sauce; combine the first seven ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. Stirring constantly, add dissolved cornstarch and cook until thick. Pour into a small bowl.

To make the filling; heat the oil in a skillet. Add garlic and saute for 15 to 30 seconds. Add onion and saute for 15 to 30 seconds. Add tempeh and saute for 3 to 4 minutes. Add potato and saute for 2 minutes. Add carrot and saute for 2 minutes. Add cabbage and saute for 1 minute. Add shoyu, turn off heat, and mix well. Allow to cool to body temperature. Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of filling in an oblong mound at center of each wrapper, then fold and roll as shown in Figure 8.4. Dip one finger in water, moisten underside of wrapper edge, and seal. Fig. 8.4 Folding Lumpia

Heat the oil to 350°F (175°C) in a wok or skillet. Slide in lumpia and deep-fry or shallow fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until crisp and golden brown. To serve, place bowl of warm sauce at the center of a large plate and surround with the hot lumpia arranged radially. Invite guests to dip one end of lumpia at a time into the sauce and enjoy!

Sweet & Sour Sauce % cup water 2 teaspoons shoyu (natural soy sauce) Dash of salt 2 tablespoons (cider) vinegar 1 clove of garlic, mashed 2 tablespoons catsup 1% tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water Lumpia Filling 3 tablespoons oil 2 cloves of garlic, minced or mashed % onion, minced 1 cup (4-4% oz.) diced tempeh (3/8 inch) % cup diced potato (3/8 inch) % cup minced carrot % cup chopped cabbage 1 tablespoon shoyu (natural soy sauce) 9 or 10 lumpia (or egg roll) wrappers, each 6% to 7 inches in diameter; storebought or homemade (see below)

Oil for deep-, shallow-, or pan-frying

138

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

For variety, lumpia may be pan fried until crisp on both sides, then served topped with the sauce or with a sprinkling of shoyu. Try adding peanuts to the filling. Lumpia Wrappers 1

cup unbleached white flour

1% cup water Oil for frying

Combine flour and water in a bowl and whisk until all clumps are gone. Preheat an 8-inch skillet. Dip a paper towel (or brush) into oil and rub lightly over bottom of pan. Pour about 9% cup batter into skillet and swirl quickly (like a crepe) to just cover bottom of pan evenly with a thin layer about 6% inches in diameter. Cook for 3 minutes until the edges curl up, then flip out of skillet upside down onto a plate. (Do not cook second side.) Re-oil pan before cooking each wrapper: the quality should improve with each one.

Tempeh Stroganoff (Tempeh & Mushroom

Sauce)

Try adding tempeh to your favorite Mushroom Sauce. Our recipe for Tempeh & Mushroom Sauce is given on page 66 of The Book of Tempeh. The following

is a larger scale and delectable variation on that recipe, developed at The Tofu Shop in Rochester. They found that using tofu pureed with water to the consistency of thick cream works better in soups, sauces, etc. than soymilk; the tofu mixture, when kept all day on a steam table and continually reheated, tends to curdle less than soymilk. If it does curdle, just stir in a little more pureed tofu and it becomes smooth and creamy again. 1% pounds (5 sticks) soy margarine 16 cups thinly sliced mushrooms 1% cups whole wheat pastry flour 4 pounds of tofu pureed with 4 cups water to make 12 cups of puree cup shoyu (natural soy sauce) 1 3 pounds tempeh, cut into 1-inch squares, and made into Coriander & Garlic Crisp Tempeh (see above) Brown rice or whole wheat noodles, cooked 9% pound (2 sticks) margarine in a large wok. Saute mushrooms until fragrant, then transfer to a separate container and set aside. Melt the remaining % pound (3 sticks) margarine in the wok. Add flour and, stirring constantly, cook over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, or until flour is well blended and its raw taste has vanished. Add tofu puree a little at a time, continuing to stir. Increase heat to medium and cook, whisking or stirring for 3 to 4 minutes more, or until sauce becomes a roux with a smooth, nicely thickened consistency. Then mix in crisply fried tempeh, sauteed mushrooms, and shoyu. (Some cooks like to add a touch of sherry to the sauce at this point.) Serve over cooked brown rice or whole-wheat noodles. Serves 25 to 50.

Melt

Tempeh Filled Pot Stickers Here is an indigenous Chinese favorite that could be adapted to tempeh to make it a vegetarian favorite with real commercial potential. See The Book of Tempeh, page 58.

Tempeh Spareribs Develop your own recipe, served with a barbecue sauce or try our Sweet & Sour Tempeh on page 67 of The Book of Tempeh.

Tempeh Pot Pies Crusts (makes approx. 20) 6% cups whole-wheat pastry flour 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast 1% cups (soy) oil 2% cups (4% sticks) margarine, preferably Willow Run soy margarine 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon (unsulphured) molasses 2 cups cold (soy) milk

Filling

18 pounds potatoes, washed and diced

% cup (1% sticks) margarine % cup soy oil 3 large carrots, chopped 25 to 35 small onions, chopped 1 cup shoyu (natural soy sauce) 6 stalks of celery, chopped 2 green peppers, chopped 30 ounces frozen or fresh blanched peas 30 ounces frozen or fresh blanched green beans 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon thyme 3 tablespoons dry chopped parsley 24 ounces tempeh, fried and chopped into 1-inch squares

Topping 4 cups toasted bread crumbs 2 tablespoons oregano

% teaspoon garlic powder

To make the crust; mix the first four ingredients well

with a pastry cutter, then cut in the margarine thoroughly with the cutter. Slowly add honey, molasses, and soymilk, mixing as you go. Roll out dough and cut into twenty 4%-inch rounds. Press into twenty well-oiled 4-inch pie tins. Prick dough at bottom of each tin with a fork. Bake at 425°F (219°C) for 12 to 15 minutes. To make filling; steam 4 pounds potatoes until barely tender, then set aside. Puree the remaining 14 pounds potatoes with some water in a (Cuisinart) food processor until smooth, then set aside. Heat margarine and soy oil in a large wok. Add carrots and onions, and saute for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and saute for 5 minutes more. Now transfer to a large pot with both the steamed and pureed potatoes, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until all ingredients are tender. Remove bay leaves. Mix topping ingredients. Fill warm pie shells with filling and sprinkle each with 3 to 4 tablespoons of the topping. Makes 20 single-serving pies.

QUANTITY TEMPEH RECIPES

139

9

Making Tempeh Starter

n order to obtain the starter (inoculum) you will need to produce tempeh, you can either

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grow it yourself or buy it from a commercial source. Roughly half of the tempeh shops in North America grow their own starter. In Indonesia, virtually all the shops grow their own. Using the methods that follow, it is just as easy to make your own tempeh starter as it is to make tempeh. In fact, it is easiest to make both at the same time. Basically you simply inoculate cooked soybeans or rice with tempeh starter, allow the mold to grow in a clean or sterile container until it sporulates, and then use the spores as a starter for subsequent batches of tempeh. Growing your own starter allows you to become more self sufficient, save money, and develop a deeper insight into the secret (and fascinating) life of “micro-plants.” The methods given in this chapter are suited for tempeh shops that want to produce their own starter to make tempeh in their shop. For a discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of producing your own starter, see Ingredients in Chapter 1. Individuals or companies interested in starting a culture supply house, which specializes in the production of starter that is sold to tempeh shops, will have to use larger scale methods and be more rigorous about using sterile techniques and maintaining pure cultures. We discuss the basic principles of such production and the basic method for transfer of pure cultures here, however, a lengthy discussion of this complex subject is beyond the scope of this chapter. Consult a good text on industrial microbiology or mycology such as Peppler and Perlman's Microbial Technology, 2 volumes (Academic Press, 1979), or Chapter 20, Production of Cultures for

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Food Fermentations, in Frazier and Westhoff's Food Microbiology (McGraw-Hill, 1978). Many of the techniques described here are for small scale, appropriate plants up to and including the steam cooker plant; we recommend that these techniques be mastered before you proceed to our larger scale methods. Among the most valuable reference works on tempeh starter production, each listed in our biblio graphy are: Wang et 1975. “Mass Production Rhizopus oligosporus Spores and their Application Tempeh Fermentation”; Hesseltine al. 1976. Fungal Spores “Production Inocula for Oriental Fermented Foods”; and Hermana al. 1973. “Preparation Tempeh Mold Inoculum and Observa Activity During Storage.” tion

Fig. 9.1 Rhizopus (single cluster)

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Although there are various types of tempeh starter and various production techniques, the following basic principles apply to most of them. Characteristics of Good Starter: The quality of tempeh is strongly affected by the quality of the starter with which it is inoculated. Hesseltine et al. (1976) have summarized the characteristics of a good starter, which include: (1) production of spores in large quantities; (2) uniform viability and genetic stability over a period of at least several months; (3) a high percentage of spore germination in a short time after inoculation; (4) pure culture or correct proportion of strains where mixed pure cultures are used; (5) ready dispersibility of spores in the fermentation substrate; (6) freedom from con taminating organisms and, if possible, ability to protect may do this by lowering itself against contamination high temperatures, elaborating the pH, growing yield desirable microbial inhibitor); and (7) ability the same amount desired product repeatedly under given set fermentation conditions. the case tempeh, also important that the starter does not produce mold that sporulates prematurely; the mycel ium should be strong, dense, fragrant, and pure white. Preparing Tempeh Starter: There are Basic Ways present basically three ways which tempeh starter prepared. By (1) growing the mold until sporulates on soybeans, rice, agar, similar substrates, then using this fresh dried sporulated substance the spores removed from inoculate subsequent batches spor tempeh; (2) using thin slices from the surface ulated tempeh; (3) using minced unsporulated tempeh. both the U.S. and Indonesia, the first by far the most popular; method the only one that requires that you have some starter begin with. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages described throughout this chapter. Fig. 9.2 Rhizopus Structure Microbiology, 1978)

helpful How Tempeh Molds Grow and Sporulate: preparing tempeh starter understand the basic biological processes involved; these are described pages 176 detail 183 the professional edition Tempeh. The life cycle The Book the Rhizopus begins spore mold when settles suitable sub grains) strate (such cooked dehulled soybeans fairly environment suited for growth; must 90°F), slightly moist (65-85% warm (ideally 32°C relative humidity), and aerobic (containing free oxygen). The spore quickly soaks up water and expands germinates, sending out very until shell cracks and slender filaments called hyphae. These branch directions, spreading rapidly over the substrate form mycelium, which binds the particles the substrate together. One type specialized aerial hyphae called stolons arch upward and outward, aiding the mycel ium's rapid spread. Where the tip each stolon touches back down the substrate forms rhizoids, specialized hyphae that resemble roots. another type good tempeh may chopped finely and piece mixed with warm, cooked dehulled soybeans inoculate them; the tempeh mycelium simply continues rapid growth without the necessity sporulation. fermentation, tempeh Toward the end the after vegetative growth well underway, reproductive growth begins. Directly above the rhizoids grow one more erect, stalklike hyphae called sporangiophores. spore case Soon the tip each swells become sporangium, which rapidly fills with asexual called spores called sporangiospores. Within few hours the sporangium (spore case) begins blacken, causing the gradually turn from gray surface the tempeh sporulation proceeds. Eventually the cell wall black lightweight the spore case bursts and hundreds dry spores are liberated into the air; some will fall on new substrate and continue the life cycle. Thus tempeh can be propagated by either viable mycelial fragments spores; these substances are It is

PRINCIPLES OF TEMPEHSTARTER PRODUCTION & HARVEST

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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Distinguishing characteristics of Rhizopus molds are: nonseptate; (2) has stolons and rhizoids, often darkening with age; (3) sporangiophores arise at nodes where rhizoids are formed; (4) sporangia are large and usually black; (5) hemispherical columella and cup shaped apophysis at base of sporangium; (6) abundant cottony mycelium that may fill tempeh container; and (7) no sporangioles. Each of these terms are defined in Appendix E of the professional edition of The Book of Tempeh. Tempeh molds are producers of essential enzymes protease, amylase, and lipase which break down respectively the proteins, carbohydrates, and fats or lipids in soybeans to yield tender tempeh. Enzymes are catalysts that promote chemical reactions without themselves being used up in the reactions. Only very small amounts of an enzyme are required to predigest very large amounts of a substrate. For a discussion of the importance of incubating the tempeh molds in their optimum growth environment to create a set of enrichment conditions, see Incubation in Chapter 4. Choice of Substrates: It is possible to grow tempeh starter on a wide variety of substrates including cooked dehulled soybeans, rice, wheat and wheat bran, bread cubes, cassava, sunflower seeds, agar, rice flour, tapioca, sweet potato, banana leaves, and the like. In commercial shops, however, virtually starter grown compare the either soybeans rice. Let advantages and disadvantages these two. For details the others, see Growing Tempeh Starter Other Substrates, later this chapter. (1)

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Soybeans: At least 80 percent the starter produced grown on soybeans, generally Indonesia days sandwiched between hibiscus leaves for until the mold sporulates. The sandwich then sun dried. The finished product known laru (or waru usar). To inoculate the tempeh, the two leaves are pulled gently apart (in some cases the firm, dry soybeans are picked off by hand and discarded), and the leaves covered with sporulated mycelium are rubbed over the new batch of warm beans. We have had better results making starter small scale using soybeans rather than rice; various our methods are described later. Steinkraus al. (1965) also reported good results using freeze-dried 4-day fermented soybeans (1975), however, inoculum. Wang reported that the use soybeans the starter sub slightly undesirable odor, strate gave the tempeh which they thought may have been due the soybeans' high protein content. One easy and widely used way separate the spores from the avoid this problem soybeans simple sifting rubbing we and most Indonesians do. One tempeh producer has reported that when tempeh made from starter consisting the pulverized soybean substrate mixed with the spores, the tempeh tends sporulate prematurely, whereas this does not happen when only the spores grown soybeans are used the starter. One clear soybean-based starter advantage that the soy beans can be cooked together with the beans for the tempeh one operation; rice for rice-based starter must be cooked separately. Rice: Wang (1975) reported three basic using rice rather than soybeans advantages the substrate for their tempeh starter. First, they found that there was much higher viable spore count per gram rice starter (300 million live spores per gram) soybean starter than million live spores). Second, they found that the spores survived and maintained soybeans. Third, their viability longer rice than they found that pulverized rice starter gave tempeh with better flavor. Hermana al. (1973) made tempeh starter using rice, soybeans, and tiny steamed dumplings equal parts cassava flour and soy flour. They concluded that rice was the best substrate and was easy make and inexpensive. The rice-based starter made tempeh the shortest fermentation time; hours versus hours for soybean starter and tempeh hours for cassava-soy starter. The shelf life made with the rice-based starter was slightly (1% Wo) longer than that tempeh made with soybean starter. And, perhaps most important tropical climate, the rice-based starter was found have little or no loss viability after six months storage 25°C (77°F) closed container. One tempeh producer has reported used, the tempeh that when rice-based starter maturity vinegar comes faster when used cooking the soybeans; soy-based starter, however, requires that the soybeans for the tempeh cooked with vinegar. in

technically known as propagules or viable counts. In general, the production of tempeh starter involves the deliberate attempt to induce the Rhizopus molds to sporulate. Sporulation is essentially a survival tech nique. If the mycelium senses a threat to its existence, it rapidly produces reproductive growth and attempts to sporulate. This explains why conditions such as excessive dryness (near the perforations in tempeh incubation containers) cause sporulation.

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Some Indonesian tempeh makers in the U.S. get their starter by airmail from friends in Indonesia, usually in the form of a small cake called ragi. Some claim that this mixed culture starter gives a whiter, better-tasting tempeh. The culture now most widely used in North America for making tempeh is the pure culture mold Rhizopus oligosporus NRRL 2710, first isolated by the Northern Regional Research Center culture collection in Peoria, Illinois, and now also available as ATCC 22959 as mentioned above. It has the strongest protease and lipase activity (which break down the soybean's abundant proteins and fats) combined with the weakest

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results. Types of Stock Cultures: A stock culture is the original culture you start with to prepare all your other starter cultures. The various stock cultures can be obtained in one of three degrees of “purity”: pure culture, mixed culture, and mixed pure culture starters. Brief descriptions of these are given in Chapter 3 and a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of each is given on pages 181 and 182 of the professional edition of The Book of Tempeh. Pure cultures are most widely used in the West although, for tempeh, mixed pure cultures (containing, for example, Klebsiella pneumoniae) might be the best. You can obtain your original stock culture in either of three forms: (1) as a well-dried starter purchased in powdered, extended form from a culture supply company such as Farm Foods; this is by far the easiest and most widely used stock culture for tempeh shops making starter for their own tempeh; (2) as a tiny amount (about 0.1 gm) of powdered, freeze-dried and unextended pure-culture starter heat sealed under vacuum in a small glass ampul (a hermetically sealed small bulbous vessel) or vial; the culture comes with instructions for transfer onto an agar slant and for use. Less frequently the starter comes as a sporulated mold growing on a solid nutrient agar medium in a small culture tube (like a test tube but with no lip) or petri plate. This form of stock culture is often supplied by culture collections; you then know exactly what species and strain of mold you are starting with. However a more complex sterile technique is generally to transfer the culture for use in making tempeh starter. The two best sources of this type of tempeh stock culture are the Northern Regional Research Center in Peoria, Illinois, and the American Type Culture Collection in Rockville, Maryland (see Appendix A). The ATCC 22959 is exactly the same tempeh culture as the Rhizopus oligosporus NRRL 2710 described below and elsewhere in this book; or (3) as a piece of fresh or frozen tempeh purchased at your local food store. This form should be used only as a last resort since the tempeh may contain small amounts of contaminants, which can increase in number as you make additional batches of starter.

activity (which makes amylase it excellent for producing tempeh from cereal grains or grain-soy mixtures). For more details on the various species and strains of starter, see page 180 of the professional edition of The Book of Tempeh. Sanitary Technique and Sterile Technique: Please begin by reviewing the section on Sanitation at the beginning of Chapter 4 so that you are clear on the three basic ways of controlling the growth of undesirable bacteria. When making any type of inoculum it is extremely important to be rigorously clean to keep out unwanted organisms. Work in a clean room with doors and windows closed if possible. Wear a clean apron, tie your hair back or wear a cap, disinfect your work surface, and wash your hands immediately before handling cultures. Be sure that any object that touches your culture is sterile. A clean surface, one that is free of visible dirt, is obtained by washing. A sanitary surface, which is obtained by washing or spraying with a sanitizing or disinfectant solution, is free from most or all microorganisms, toxins, and other unhealthy sub stances. A sterile surface or substance, obtained by sterilization (as by pressure cooking, washing with alcohol, or heating in a flame), is completely free of living organisms. (Note that a sterile substance could be unsanitary if it contained nonliving toxins, etc.) In Indonesia, good-quality mixed culture starter is prepared daily in thousands of neighborhood tempeh shops under extremely unsanitary conditions. Fortu nately the environment is so favorable to the growth of Rhizopus molds and these molds are so hardy that when present in large numbers (they usually permeate the shop and its wooden or bamboo utensils), they are able to “crowd out” and dominate most unwanted microorganisms. In the West, however, most tempeh makers find that if they do not produce their starter under fairly sanitary conditions, unwanted organisms (especially bacteria) gradually infiltrate their numbers can increase with each successive generation good until they eventually prevent the formation tempeh. Tempeh shops the West producing starter for use making their own tempeh should use what we call sanitary technique, which rigorous and not quite demanding sterile technique; the latter used by culture supply houses. For sanitary technique nothing more sufficient work under hood, which easy-to-build plywood box with sturdy glass than Plexiglas lid window; we prefer use thick glass since Plexiglas can scratched and, burner used, can melt. The lid generally slopes down toward the front within inches of the table on which the hood box rests, leaving ample room for your hands reach underneath into the box; two hand holes may be cut into the front the box. The lid may be hinged the top facilitate cleaning inside the hood. The hood shields your culture during transfer from contamination or

We suggest that Western tempeh makers experi ment using both rice and soybeans to inoculate small batches of tempeh and see which seems to give the best

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

143

Fig. 9.5 Two Hoods

which is at the heart of any microbiological work of establishing and maintaining pure cultures with the minimum possible contamination. Work is generally done in a sterile transfer chamber (such as a glove box or a positive pressure hood) rather than just under a hood. Designs are shown in Figures 9.6 and 9.7. Illus trated applications of the technique are given later in Fig. 9.6 Glove Box and Design (The Farm)

by falling dust in the air or from an inadvertent sneeze or cough. Inside the hood place an atomizer containing a 70-percent ethanol (ethyl alcohol) or Clorox solution which will precipitate all organisms in the air inside the box; wipe out the inside walls and floor of the box after spraying. Another way to sterilize the interior of a hood is to mount an ultraviolet light in the top, which you turn on for 15 to 20 minutes before you start work under the hood, then turn off just before you start. This degree of sanitation, however, is generally not necessary for shops making their own starter. If you do not want to take the trouble to make a hood, at least work in a clean room, as close to a lighted burner as safety and practicality will permit; the open flames create an updraft that keeps dust and contaminants from settling on your cultures. The key point to remember is that any container, utensil, or substrate that contacts your original stock culture should be sterile; it is sufficient that the surrounding environment just be clean. The easiest way to sterilize containers, utensils, and substrates is to place them on a rack above a little water in a pressure cooker (or retort, which is basically a large pressure cooker). Wrap any utensils in several layers of cloth or paper, which will later serve as a sterile holder. Bring the cooker to 15 pounds pressure (which creates a temperature of 121°C or 250°F) and hold for 15 to 20 minutes; this is enough to kill all but the most heat resistant bacterial endospores . . . which will probably not bother you anyway. Allow utensils etc. to dry and to cool to roughly body temperature (at least until they do not feel hot to the touch) so they do not burn and harm any microorganisms they contact. Be careful not to touch the sterile part of your transfer utensil to any nonsterile objects. Another way to sterilize metal transfer utensils is to flame them. Dip the utensil (such as a knife or spatula) about 3 inches into a jar of ethanol (ethyl alcohol), immediately set the blade on fire in a burner flame (since ethanol is very flammable, keep the jar away from your burner), hold the blade over a nonflammable surface in case any flaming alcohol drips off, allow blade to cool for 10 seconds after it finishes flaming, then use it to transfer starter spores from your stock culture to the substrate to be inoculated. Flaming is quick and may leave the utensil drier than autoclaving. Commercial culture supply houses providing starter to many tempeh shops use sterile or aseptic technique,

144

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

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Water: Substrate

Substrate

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(vol./wt.)

Viable Spore Count (log the count)

(%) Rice

Soybean Grits

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Fig. 9.7 Positive Pressure Hood (Island Spring)

Table

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this chapter at: Sporulated Rice, Pressure Cooker, and Jar Method; Sporulated Rice, Petri Dish, and Glove Box Method; and Growing Tempeh Starter on Agar.

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other particulate matter. An ultraviolet light along the top the box kills any microorganisms already the Vashon, Washing box. Island Spring tempeh shop ton, built their own positive pressure hood for $126 using 16-gauge aluminum sheeting, pop rivet gun, hinged lid made and "4-inch Plexiglas, with adhesive weather stripping along the sides. Before work, the interior swabbed out with 70% ethanol (ethyl alcohol) while the fan on. Then the UV light turned on when the operator not nearby (since prolonged exposure this “sunlamp” can be carcinogenic). small bunsen burner alcohol lamp sterilizing utensils. installed most hoods use Oxygen and Moisture Requirements: Adequate aeration one the environmental factors necessary Rhizopus oligosporus, and excess for spore formation oxygen stimulates sporulation; hence the sporulation tempeh incu the tempeh mycelium near perforations plastic sheeting over trays. Some bation bags commercial producers other types starters grow the spores substrate oven bags and shoot oxygen intermittently. However, the need for oxygen must balanced need for adequate moisture content the substrate; the substrate allowed become too dry, mold growth impeded. Experiments Wang and sporulation will (1975) demonstrated the great importance producing moisture content the substrate growing oligosporus abundant sporulation. various substrates 32°C (90°F) for days, they found that the growth and sporulation varied dramatically with the moisture level as shown Table 9.1.

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In a positive pressure hood, air is drawn in the top by a squirrel cage fan through a furnace filter which microorganisms and filters out dust and incinerates

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For starter grown on rice, ratio milliliters (or grams) grams every water rice (combine tablespoons water with cup rice and pressure cook small jar whose mouth covered with milk filter pad) yielded percent rice substrate containing moisture, which gives maximum sporulation—over 100 million live spores per gram substrate. For soybean grits, the optimum ratio was milliliters (or grams) grams yield sub soybeans water strate 48 percent moisture with roughly million viable spores per gram substrate. the case both rice and soybeans, the ratio water substrate was raised above 8:10, sporulation was significantly less, although mold growth was abundant. One tempeh maker has found that for rice-based starters water:rice ratio 5:10 by weight rather than the 6:10 recommended above gave more abundant sporulation and, more important, easier pulverization blender with less drying. Incubation Temperature and Time: easiest for most tempeh shops make their starter the same time they make tempeh, incubating the same incubator the same temperature, but allowing incubate longer than the tempeh, which promotes both sporulation and desirable drying the substrate. grown on rice, an incubation the starter 32°C days gives maximum spore formation (90°F) for (Wang substrate, we al. 1975). Using soybeans have had good results incubating the starter 31°C days. Steinkraus (88°F) for al. (1965) incubated soybeans 37°C (98°F) for days. Indonesian tempeh roughly 27°C (80°F) for makers incubate soybeans days. Harvesting and Drying Freezing Starter: Starter ready that harvest should be covered with uniform and abundant layer black dark gray spores. Check each container starter carefully. Any spots containing other colored (green areas yellowish green) mold sporulation and any slimy patches should cut out with sterile knife and discarded. After being harvested, commercial starters are often dried to extend their shelf life and make them easier

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

145

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Counts are expressed the log gram sample on dry basis. Before and after freeze-drying.

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TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Since roughly million (106) viable spores are required inoculate 100 grams cooked substrate, gram freeze-dried starter, containing 100 million viable spores will yield about 10,000 grams 22 pounds tempeh, whereas gram fresh (non freeze-dried) starter full potency will yield about ten times that much tempeh. Tests by Wang al. (1975) concerning the effects storage times and temperatures on freeze-dried starter viability showed that there was no significant decline after months when the starter was stored 4°C (39°F), whereas room temperature there was significant decline after months, but further decline thereafter. making the freeze-dried rice-based tempeh starter many people from the Northern Regional sent out Research Center, Wang and co-workers pulverize the sporulated rice substrate, freeze-dry the sporulated product, sift rice, then remove large chunks extend with roughly 100 parts by weight wheat rice flour. freeze-drying see For more technical details Freeze-Drying and Advanced Food Technology by Goldblith, Rey, and Rothmayr (Academic Press, 1979). Freezing Liquid Nitrogen: Many culture houses preserve their cultures (especially bacterial cultures) by freezing them liquid nitrogen -196°C (-321°F). Pulverizing Sifting the Starter: After drying (or some cases, with freeze-drying, before), the sporu lated substrate can be either pulverized (as In

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Rhizopus oligosporus Table 9.2 Viable Spore Counts Affected Fermentation Time and Freeze Drying (Source: Adapted from Wang 1975)

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problem. Wang (1975) various tests found that tempeh starter incubated for days 32°C had the highest viable spore count before freeze-drying starter, dry billion 109 viable spores per gram weight), whereas that incubated for days 32°C (90°F) had the highest viable spore count after freeze-drying (100 million 108 viable spores). Note only percent that although the latter figure the former figure (i.e., 90% the propagules the fresh starter were killed by freeze-drying), the freeze-dried starter still contains 100 million viable spores per gram. or

(if

to pulverize and mix with an extender used). The following drying techniques are listed order simplicity. Most tempeh shops don't dry their starter. Drying: One easy way dry tempeh starter inexpensive laboratory without adding heat use desiccator, which bell jar with an open desiccant Spread the starter container below clean layer no more than container inch thick and leave the desiccator room temperature for days, until feels dry when pinched. Then seal and cold, dry place Storing store described Tempeh Starter Chapter Or simply continue incubate the starter, covering the container with layer cheesecloth, 37°C (84-99°F) for several days longer than usual until feels dry when pinched. Japan, rice covered with sporulated Aspergillus oryzae mold for koji starter (used inoculate more rice making miso) open wooden trays and crumbled days. Then dried 45°C (113°F) for pulverized sifting. the spores removed Solar drying sun drying clean environment carefully regulated temperature can also be with yield good results with made fossil-fuel energy input. L-Drying: Vacuum drying Vacuum Drying similar the process described above except that the placed starter vacuum chamber, which evapo rates off excess moisture. Farm Foods vacuum dries its starter. L-drying, similar process with gentle heating pulverization, has been used followed rice-based tempeh starter with good results Japan and Ota McComb Australia. The L-drying, however, was reported percent loss lead viable propagules. percent malt extract maintained the spores well during L-drying; percent survived heating for percent hour 80°C (176°F) and survived hour 100°C (212°F). Freeze-Drying: Also called lyophilization when done small laboratory scale, freeze-drying produces starter which retains high level viability for long time even when stored room temperature. chamber, The equipment, freezer and vacuum however, rather expensive and usually has small capacity. The starter (or food, such tempeh) first very low temperature (-50°C frozen very quickly -58°F) that the ice crystals that form are very small and don't disrupt the spore cells. Usually small samples dry ice and solvent are frozen using liquid nitrogen such acetone (which flammable and cools by fast evaporation) alcohol. The frozen product then put into large vacuum chamber and dried sublimation the ice almost perfect vacuum microns directly into the less than perfect). The ice crystals vapor state without passing through the liquid state. During freeze-drying, the starter generally not very moderate tempera heated above 27°C (80°F), ture. However the extreme cold during the initial fast freezing kills fairly large percentage the viable starter propagules. Fortunately, this not serious

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viable counts. Since 4.5 million viable counts will make about pound tempeh, gram this imaginary starter will tempeh make about 8.9 pounds could be used dry inoculate the tempeh made from 5.1 pounds soybeans. Tempeh Starter: Some shops such Contaminants part The Tempeh Works, their quality control program, have standard bacterial plate counts and every batch coliform counts done local lab their tempeh starter. Contaminated starter can ruin pounds tempeh, and entire batch hundreds bacterial contamination can also greatly reduce the quite easy for potency starter. Since least get into starter and then some contaminants multiply, quality control and careful technique are very important your starter shows starter production. contamination, pay more attention rigorous sanita tion and sterile technique and starter moisture levels and incubation temperatures. Common bacterial starter contaminants include Penicillium, Alternaria, and an unidentified dark maroon species. More studies are needed determine what the other main contaminants are and how they might be eliminated. Extending Tempeh Starter: The majority tempeh shops and virtually all culture supply houses that produce tempeh starter extend by mixing with starchy flour powder such wheat flour (either white whole wheat), rice flour, cassava flour (sold starch, tapioca some Mexican markets), corn (cassava manioc starch). Some shops sterilize their extender (carrier) before use by putting heat resistant oven roasting bag oven 250°F (121°C) by autoclaving for 30 minutes moisture proof container for the same time and temperature. Other shops do not sterilize their extender; they mix with the starter just before use. When mixed with the extender, spores should be well dried prevent caking. An easy way make rice-flour extender simply pulverize white rice (sterilized previously by autoclaving) together with your rice-based substrate. extending There are various advantages meal spore powder tempeh starter: (1) being less texture concentrated, the starter easier measure (the measurement less critical) and distribute uniformly throughout the beans during inoculation; (2) less the original concentrated starter needed per unit of beans be inoculated, which lowers the starter tempeh; (3) the extender cost per cake the starter helps absorb unwanted excess moisture the soybeans during inoculation; and (4) the carbohydrates the energy source that aids mycelium extender serve growth. How much extender should we add to certain starter? Many producers like extend their starter that teaspoonful the extended starter will inoculate pound dry soybeans yielding 1.75 pounds tempeh. Let teaspoon assume that either the

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sanitized blender or mill) to produce a meal texture starter, containing spores, bits of mycelium, and substrate, or it can be sifted to separate the spores from the substrate (the latter is discarded) to produce a spore powder substrate. Most rice based starter is pulver ized, whereas most soy-based starter is sifted. Small scale sifting can be done in a sanitized strainer (sieve). The larger scale process requires a spore sifting machine, in which the whole-grain starter is fed into a hopper whence it falls against a rapidly revolving screen disc about 30 inches in diameter. A vacuum sucks the spores through the screen into a collection sack and the stripped grain substrate is discarded through a chute. Steinkraus et al. (1965) reported good results using a pulverized soybean-based starter, however some commercial tempeh producers and researchers (Wang et 1975) have reported problems off flavors and early tempeh sporulation when they did this. Testing Wiable Counts: viable count measures the number viable propagules (spores and bits mycelium) sample starter. After you have made starter, you will want batch know how much tempeh you can make from this starter. You can find scientifically, by testing out either by trial and error the viable counts. Various researchers (Wang al. 1975) and tempeh makers have found that approximately 4.5 million pound viable counts are required inoculate yield about pound tempeh; 7.7 cooked soybeans dry million viable counts are required for each pound soybeans used. part Some shops, such The Tempeh Works, their quality control program, have local laboratory do viable spore counts (together with bacterial plate counts; $10 for the two tests) on every batch their starter. Other shops feel that this level care not necessary. Those that wish test viable counts them selves and thus master another basic microbiological technique may follow this method used Wang al. your tempeh starter (1975). Aseptically weigh gram then combine sterilized blender with 99 ml of high speed. sterilized water and blend for minutes Next make serial dilutions by combining ml the blend with 100 ml sterile water, then ml that mixture with 100 ml water, etc. (In actual practice may require more less dilution than this. The best dilution one that will result count of about 30 colonies one plate.) Now mix ml each dilution petri dish with ml warm (45°C 113°F) plate special transparent nutrient agar medium count agar available from Difco Baltimore Labs). Incubate dishes 32°C for 20 24 hours, then count the colonies the dish which there are roughly 30 colonies. Let's say there are 40 colonies the dish made from the third serial dilution, which contained gram 10-6 one millionth the original starter. Thus one millionth contains 40 viable propagules counts, then the whole gram contains 40 million

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

147

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Fig. 9.8 Sporulated Soy-Based Tempeh Starter

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GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON SOYBEANS

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Buy two aluminum (not steel, which rusts) baking pans, each 8 inches square at the mouth and 1 to 2 inches deep. In the bottom of each pan drill many 1/16-inch diameter holes in a grid pattern at %-inch intervals. Douse the clean pan with plenty of boiling water to partially sterilize dry. then invert pan on rack cup While making soy tempeh, set aside about freshly inoculated soybeans; place them single layer covering the bottoms the two pans. Cover each pan with aluminum foil and perforate the foil grid pattern 94-inch intervals. Incubate together with your tempeh hours, 32°C (86-90°F) for until the mold sporulates and the upper surface looks

or

hibiscus-leaf method most popular in Indonesia, it can be done as part of the process of making more tempeh; the resulting starter produces tempeh of the finest quality. By being clean and careful, we have had no trouble keeping this starter going for more than 20 generations, each generation yielding at least 100 pounds of tempeh. The following method is four times the size of the method by the same name on pages 118 and 119 of The Book of Tempeh.

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Sporulated Inoculated Soybean Method (Unsterilized in Pans)

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The following methods are listed in the order in which we feel they are suited for use by medium sized tempeh shops in The West.

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Dry Strainer Sifted Spore Extraction: This method quick, easy, and effective; requires only simple utensils that are easily sanitized. Makes tablespoons top-quality long-lasting spore-powder starter, enough for 120 tempeh. 160 pounds Partially sterilize quart boiling for water minutes; pour boiling water over clean 8-inch diameter medium-mesh metal strainer or sieve and metal (soup) spoon, then drain dry. Place several clean, smooth paper on letter-size sheets table plate. Holding the dry strainer over the paper, place sporulated, dry starter strainer, break into many small pieces with the spoon, then rub the pieces firmly against bottom strainer for minutes that spores fall through onto paper, leaving dry, grayish teaspoon white beans strainer. Discard beans; spore-powder pound dry this starter will inoculate soybeans that have been cooked. Try extending starter with 20 parts more by volume flour. Store starter refrigerator and use within months, sealed preferably within several weeks; after month, dosage percent. by increase 50

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GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON SOYBEANS (WESTERNMETHODS)

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like uniformly dark gray black cotton. Then remove foil, cover each pan with cheesecloth, sheet gauze keep out dust, and incubate Kleenex tissue, dry the substrate and for hours more increase sporulation. Extract the spores, using any one preference. the following methods, listed order The first far the best for commercial production.

of

extender or the starter weighs 3 grams and that 1 gram 50 million viable counts. Now we need only 4.5 million viable counts to inoculate the 1 pound of dry soybeans. Thus 1 teaspoon or 3 grams of the pure starter would inoculate 33.3 pounds of dry soybeans. Thus if we mix 1 teaspoon of pure starter with 33.3 teaspoons of extender, 1 teaspoon of the extended mixture will inoculate exactly 1 pound of dry soybeans to yield 1.75 pounds of tempeh. Some people (Wang and co-workers) extend with as much as 100 parts of extender by weight to 1 part by weight of pulverized and freeze-dried rice-based starter. Her mana et al. (1973) got good results extending with ratios of 20:1 up to 320:1. Storing Tempeh Starter: Tempeh starter should be sealed in a moisture-proof container at about 4°C (39°F). For more details on tempeh starter storage, see Tempeh Starters in Chapter 3. Remember that the starter is most potent just after it is made; most loss of potency occurs during the first month of storage.

of the starter contains

Fig. 9.9 Dry-Strainer Spore Extraction

Wet Jar Spore Extraction: This method, which involves washing off the spores, is described on page 119 of The Book of Tempeh, however it is not very well suited to commercial starter production unless the spores are washed off just before they are used. Dry Blender Pulverized Spore Extraction: De scribed on page 119 of The Book of Tempeh, this process has three drawbacks for commercial produc tion: (1) it is fairly difficult to sterilize most blenders; (2) after pulverization, it is difficult to remove all the starter; and (3) pulverizing soybean-based starters may yield tempeh whose mycelium sporulates prematurely and has off flavors. Yet the blender is useful in the preparation of relatively large amounts of tempeh starter as for a community or small shop.

31°C or 88°F for 4 to 5 days). Then freeze-dry the culture, pulverize in a sterilized laboratory burr mill, and store in a sterile dry container. One gram of this starter (originally the amount was given as 3 grams) was used to inoculate each kilogram of soaked, cooked soybeans (i.e., 1 kg cooked weight). Note: If you do not have access to a freeze-dryer, the spores can be removed from the soybeans prepared by this method using the Dry Strainer Sifted Spore Extraction technique described above.

Sporulated Tempeh Method This method, described on page 120 of The Book of involves cutting thin slices from the surface of a cake of tempeh, incubating them until the mold sporulates, then using the spores as a starter for making more tempeh. Advantage: takes less time than sporulated inoculated soybean methods. Disadvan tages: the resulting starter is slightly more subject to contamination; the process requires the destruction of several cakes of tempeh. A variation on our method has been used by White Wave in Boulder, Colorado. Allow a few packages of tempeh to sporulate. Scrape off the black spores at the surface. Combine each tablespoon of spores with 8 tablespoons of whole-wheat flour; mix in a blender. Tempeh,

its

This method, described on page 120 of The Book of Tempeh, involves simply mincing or pureeing some fresh tempeh and mixing it with cooked, dehulled soybeans to inoculate them; the mycelium continues rapid growth without the use spores. Advantages: quick and easy. Disadvantages: the resulting tempeh generally has slightly weaker mycelium and the incubation time little longer than for tempeh made from starter with the sporulated methods described above; the resulting tempeh more subject bacterial contamination from the starter; the process requires is

to

a

is

Fig. 9.10 Erlenmeyer and Fernbach Flasks

Unsporulated Tempeh Mycelium Method

of

The following method, developed by Dr. Keith H. Steinkraus and colleagues in 1965, is described in their journal article “A Pilot Process for the Production of Dehydrated Tempeh.” It differs from the former method in that: the soybeans are sterilized in the incubation container, which is a flask; the starter is freeze-dried, which requires expensive equipment; and the spores and substrate are are ground together rather than separated. The three basic pieces of equipment type LS 2138, American used are (1) autoclave, Sterilizer Co., Erie, PA; (2) freeze-dryer, model 200413, F.J. Stokes Machine Co., Philadelphia, PA; and (3) burr mill, F. No. 4, Quaker City Mill Co., Philadelphia, PA. They also used several 3-liter Fernbach flasks (which are similar to flat bottomed, conical Erlenmeyer flasks, but have a larger bottom area) and a tempeh incubator.

a

Sporulated Inoculated Soybean Method (Sterilized in Flask)

no

of

several tempeh cakes. Yet we have trouble keeping this starter going for more than twelve generations homemade tempeh. the destruction

of

had

GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON RICE (WESTERN METHOD)

to

make

Jar

in

Method

little tempeh starter, you can use this prepared more. Since the starter is

you have

method

a

Sporulated Rice, Pressure Cooker

&

in

in

The following methods are listed the order which we feel they are suited for use by medium-sized tempeh shops the West.

If

Place 500 grams of well-soaked soybeans (48% moisture) into each of a number of 3-liter Fernbach flasks. Seal mouths of flasks and sterilize by autoclaving or pressure cooking at 121°C (250°F) for 30 minutes. Remove flasks from autoclave and allow to cool to body temperature. Open mouth of one flask and, using a spoon sterilized with the flasks in the autoclave, spoon in 1% grams freeze-dried (lyophilized) starter consisting of pure culture Rhizopus oligosporus grown on a soybean substrate and then pulverized so that it contains both mycelium and spores. After inoculating each flask, incubate at 37°C (98.6°F) for 4 days (or at

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

149

9%

to

1

or

"/4

2

or

less. tablespoons (29.5 ml grams fluid ounce) water teaspoon commercial tempeh starter 1/8

of

in

or

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2

in

of

cup rice and tablespoons water Combine each the three jars, cover the mouth each jar with the milk place filter sterile pad (used the usual flat metal

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lid), then screw the ring tie with twine hold place. (Some producers allow jars each filter stand room temperature for hour and shake every minutes rice will absorb water uniformly.) Place jars upright pressure cooker. Wrap shallow rack %-teaspoon measuring spoon and metal fork tight-weave cloth and place several layers rack on cups water into cooker; water level cooker. Run should be below surface rack. Bring cooker pounds pressure and simmer (autoclave) for 20 minutes. Remove cooker from heat and allow pressure come down naturally. Open cooker and shake jars break up rice clumps. Break up any tough clumps with sterilized fork. in

11

Pressure Cooking Rice

Jars

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GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON RICE

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150

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49

tablespoons (% cup grams) white (polished) rice, preferably long grain; not use rice with talc (magnesium silicate) long-grained surface. converted and fortified rice (such Uncle Ben's) slightly also works well with the same water ratio or

4

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31

give

a

For each jar use the following ingredients water:rice ratio of 6:10.

to

in

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on

the

Starter

to

and all

incubator blender, preferably one with both uppulverize down-turned blades that help

body temperature. (If Allow jars and rice cool using positive pressure hood, swab out inside hood with ethanol while fan on. Then turn on ultraviolet light cooling.) Open hood for minutes while rice jar jars one time under hood keeping mouth facing sideways prevent airborne spores from falling in. Unwrap sterilized spoon and use quickly sprinkle 1/8 teaspoon starter over the rice each jar, then put back filter, screw ring immediately, and mix starter well with rice by shaking. Inoculate rice each jar this way. Lay jars on their sides spread out rice; incubate days 32°C (88-90°F) for the same your tempeh, incubator until rice covered with black spores. (If rice becomes too dry, sprinkle outside filter with water. Some shops shake the jars once day during incubation break up some the mycelium, aid drying, and help supply oxygen the mold.) Now pulverize rice clean blender (preferably at

is

tempeh

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rings (or any Three 1-pint mason jars with screw-on short, 1-pint jars with piece twine used instead the screw-on ring). quarts more, with One large pressure cooker, shallow steaming rack the bottom. must be large enough hold three jars standing upright the pressure cooker can use rack. Tofu plants having that pressure cooker. pads (they Three 6%-inch-diameter milk filter discs resemble chemistry lab filter papers) cover the breathe, mouth each jar, allowing the mold keeping They while out bacteria and dust. are available from dairy supply houses most big cities, see Appendix Some shops use two milk filters give better protection. over the mouth each jar Less satisfactory substitutes include 4-inch-square drugstores; however sterile bandage pads (sold their loose weave may let too much air, which dry too much) causes the rice substrate /4-to layer 1/8-inch-thick cotton sandwiched between gauze. two layers hood (see Principles, above). Island Spring uses positive pressure hood shown the following illustrations, but this level protection probably not necessary.

9.

lid

under sterile or almost sterile conditions (especially if you can sterilize your blender), the purity of the original starter will be retained more completely than with some of the previous methods. Developed by Dr. H.L. Wang and co-workers at the Northern Regional Research Center in Peoria, Illinois (1977) this is the method used to prepare the (freeze-dried) starter which thousands of people have ordered from the Center. The method has also been used with excellent results by numerous tempeh shops including Island Spring in Washington and The Tempeh Works in Massachusetts. In the following description, the illustrations are of Island Spring, which uses three jars per batch. However more or less jars can be used; The Tempeh Works, for example, uses seven jars per batch. Each jar yields about 2.5 to 2.7 tablespoons of top quality meal-texture starter or 1.2 tablespoons of spore powder starter, either of which can be used to make from 50 to 200 pounds of tempeh. The basic utensils and ingredients required are:

to

one jar will inoculate enough soybeans make 350 tempeh. For ease use, mix each unit 700 pounds

30

of

volume this spore powder starter with volumes of flour or starch extender.

to

(Island

20

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Pressure

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Under Positive

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Fig. 9.12 Working Spring)

VARIATIONS

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Pulverizing

Rice-Based Started

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Blender (Island

Moist Rice

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MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

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it

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Using sterile transfer loop, inoculate the substrate screw-capped from Rhizopus oligosporus maintained culture tubes on Potato-Dextrose-Agar slants. (Details growing tempeh starter agar and transferring rice cultures are given below.) on

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Autoclaving

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The starter now ready use. Store unused por jar tions small unused polyethylene bag sealed desiccant, refrigerator with inside about 4°C Chapter (39°F) described The Tempeh Works sifted, gram has found that when this starter the spore powder contains average 50 million viable (range: 20-80 million) and that the contents cou,

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rinsed with very hot water, inverted, and well dried) for 1 minute. If the starter is not very dry, it will look like uniform dark-gray granules when pulverized. If it is very dry it will pulverize nicely into a uniform gray meal. If it is only moderately dry, many of the rice granules will remain unpulverized; in this case sift the starter through clean dry medium mesh strainer. paper and Catch the black spores on clean sheet discard the white rice granules left the strainer. one

in

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Using Brown Rice Substrate: McComb (1977) found that whole brown rice worked better than white pearled wheat tempeh starter substrate. rice Using parts by weight parts water brown rice (vs 10:5 for white rice), the rice was pressure cooked psi for minutes, then shaken (autoclaved) vigorously before inoculation. Incubation was for days 32°C (90°F). The Farm's Method: smaller-scale variation on this Tennessee, basic method, developed The Farm described detail the revised 1978 edition of The Farm Vegetarian Cookbook and summarized on page Tempeh. 120 our Book The Farm's method, the spores are washed off the rice with small amount water, then the mixture rice and spore water used inoculate the soybeans for tempeh. Ann Arbor Biological Center Method: Combine grams white rice and 100 ml water each number 250 ml Erlenmeyer flasks. Cover each flask with loose-fitting cap aluminum foil, and autoclave pounds pressure for minutes. The resultant consistency will resemble that wet oatmeal.

151

9. 13B Inoculating

Rice with Spores from Agar Slant

Re-cap each flask with the loose-fitting foil lid and incubate at 30°C (86°F) for 24 to 36 hours, or until the 1-inch-thick substrate is covered with a deep, luxuriant black sporulation. The fresh starter is now ready to use; it can be either picked up by local producers or shipped by first class mail to producers around the nation. The producer spoons or pours the starter out of the flask. One flask, enough to inoculate 24 pounds of dry soy beans, cost $3 in December 1979. 9. 13C Rice-Based

Starter in Erlenmeyer Flasks

Center in Peoria, Illinois, is described in their journal article “Mass Production of Rhizopus oligosporus Spores and their Application for Tempeh Fermenta tion.” The glove box design (shown earlier) and technique was adapted from that used by Farm Foods in San Rafael, California (1976). In Wang's experiments, R. oligosporus NRRL 2710 was maintained on potato dextrose agar slants (PDA) stored at 4 to 5°C (39-41°F). Before each experiment, the mold was transferred to another PDA slant and Spore incubated at 28°C (82.4°F) for 7 days. suspension for inoculation was prepared by adding 3 ml of sterile water to each slant and shaking the culture vigorously for 1 minute. The spore production flasks were 300-ml Erlenmeyer flasks containing 10 grams of a specific grain such as polished rice or pearled wheat. Various amounts of water (depending on the substrate) were added to the flasks, mixed, and allowed to stand at room temperature for 1 hour with shaking every 5 to 10 minutes. After sterilization, each flask was inoculated with 0.1 ml suspension containing approximately 100,000 (109) viable spores (sporangio spores). Maximum sporulation was found to occur at 32°C (90°F). The method we describe here is based on many of these same principles but is slightly larger in scale and makes more use of improvised, low-cost equipment. One batch of this starter, made from 2 cups rice, can be used to make roughly 1,100 pounds tempeh; if the starter is freeze-dried, it will make about 110 pounds tempeh. The basic utensils and ingredients required

ofdº.

are:

21

A

A A A

Other Ways of processing rice-based starter are described at Sporulated Rice, Petri Dish, and Glove Box Method, below. •

A A A

petri dishes, each 4 inches in diameter and 5/8 inch deep large pressure cooker (with full pressure of 15 pounds), containing an improvised rack for support ing the petri dishes 1 to 2 inches above the cooker's bottom /4-teaspoon measuring spoon 1-foot-square piece of clean undyed cloth glove box, constructed as shown in Figure 9.6. Or a commercial ready-made glove box or sterile transfer chamber which sells for several hundred dollars. small sponge (4 by 3 by 1 inch thick) small bowl containing a weak solution of bleach water (% teaspoon Clorox dissolved in 1 quart water) tempeh incubator

Sporulated Rice, Petri Dish, and Glove Box Method

2 cups (400 gm) white rice (preferably long grain); do not use rice that contains talc on surface

An enlarged and more elaborate version of the Sporulated Rice and Jar Method given above, this technique stresses the use of sterile utensils in a sterile environment such as a “glove box” to produce pure culture starter. This basic method, developed in 1975 by Drs. Wang, Swain, and Hesseltine at the U.S. Department of Agriculture Northern Regional Research

In each of 20 petri dishes, combine 20 grams (about 5 teaspoons) rice and 12 grams (about 2% teaspoons or 12 ml) distilled water. In the one remaining empty petri dish place the remaining 3 tablespoons distilled water. Cover all dishes and allow to stand for 1 hour; shake

152

GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON RICE

19 tablespoons (285 ml) water, preferably distilled % teaspoon pure-culture tempeh starter

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Twelve 2-quart-capacity commercial orange juice jars pure glass and each having flat sides and made 1%-inch-diameter mouth, with cotton plug each mouth

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10-ml syringe

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a

/*-teaspoon measuring spoon spatula with 1%-inch-wide, 10-inch-long blade laboratory gown and face mask 1-cup baby-food jar with lid pressure cooker An autoclave tempeh incubator 10-inch-long, thin-bladed knife for cutting the mycelium the jars centrifuge (1500 3500 RPM) with stainless steel centrifuge jars petri dishes vacuum dryer mortar and pestle small Ziploc bags

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Tennessee, This method, developed by The Farm no longer use there, having been replaced after 1976 new method, which involves growing the starter on white rice, vacuum drying and extending with sterile wheat flour wheat starch. The centrifuge and the centrifugation process described below are no longer used since the process takes much too much costly. The details time and the equipment the new basically the same method are secret. However Wang method that described al. (1975) except that different liquid-to-rice ratio used and no freeze-dryer used. The following method, although outdated, does work and illustrates number of interesting principles. yields enough starter produce 250 tempeh 500 pounds and uses relatively low cost, available technology. The following equipment and ingredients are required:

A A

to

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to or

in

5

to to

Dryer Method

or

3 to

Sporulated Rice, Centrifuge

of

all

to

31

grains sporulated rice starter petri dish containing sterilized rice. Distribute grains evenly, cover dish, and set aside. Repeat until 20 dishes are inoculated, then proceed incubate.

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%

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rice-filled dishes every 10-15 minutes so rice will absorb water uniformly. Fill cooker to a depth of 9% inch with tap water, set rack into cooker (to prevent water from entering dishes), then stack petri dishes on rack. Wrap measuring spoon in cloth and place atop dishes. Bring water in covered cooker to a boil, close pressure valve, and bring to 15 pounds pressure; simmer for 20 minutes to sterilize contents, then remove from heat and allow to stand until pressure returns to normal. Open cooker, remove the covered dishes and the cloth wrapped spoon, and allow to cool to room temperature, then transfer into glove box together with sealed packet of freeze-dried tempeh starter. Soak sponge in bleach water (outside glove box), squeeze gently to expel excess water, and place sponge in box; close box door and seal latch. Put hands in gloves. Pick up sponge and wipe off entire interior of box to disinfect Unwrap measuring spoon and measure teaspoon tempeh tablespoons starter into petri dish containing the sterilized water; mix well. Now uncover one rice-filled petri dish and sprinkle teaspoon the starter evenly possible over the rice surface solution (mixing unnecessary). Re-cover dish and set aside. Repeat until the rice 20 dishes has been inoculated. Then remove covered dishes from glove box, reswab entire interior box with remoistened sponge, and close box door. Transfer dishes incubator set 32°C (88-90°F) and incubate for days, until mycelium has turned dark black due sporulation. This sporulated-rice tempeh starter can any now be processed several ways make tempeh for distribution and sale. Or can be used directly make more starter described below. unopened petri Unused portions should be stored dishes low temperature and humidity.

go

A 5

A 5

cups long-grain, white rice, which contains no talc and need not be washed (Uncle Ben's converted, long-grain, enriched, parboiled works well) cups water teaspoon pure culture tempeh starter (rice-spore mixture)

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jars, combine cup rice and 4.8 each tablespoons water (60% the volume the rice). Shake well then place jars with flat side down that rice forms even layer. Plug mouth each jar with cotton plug and place into autoclave together with %-teaspoon measuring spoon and syringe, each wrapped paper, dish towel sterile gown and In

10

to

5

Using Sporulated Rice Starter Make More Starter: Proceed the basic Sporulated Rice, Petri Dish Glove Box Method but omit both the petri dish containing tablespoons water and the pure-culture tempeh starter. Use the measuring spoon (or pair tweezers sterilized over an alcohol burner) transfer as

1

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cooked. •

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Drying: For descriptions drying various ways rice-based tempeh starter, see Harvesting and Drying Starter under Principles, earlier this chapter. Washing off Spores: Mix sporulated rice with sterile water (% cup water per petri dish) sterile jar and minute, shake vigorously for until spores into suspension. suspension dark the original starter, use lighter, cover jar, and refrigerate overnight spores settle, then pour off the clear liquid and use the spores. Fresh Pureeing: blender combine the contents cup (cool, boiled) water and 1% one petri dish with cups cooked soybeans; puree until smooth, then use pounds soybeans, which have been inoculate

to

in

Using and Processing Rice-Based Tempeh Starter

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

153

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GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON AGAR

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tempeh starter model for the preparation large scale can be found the present methods for koji starter Japan. Koji commercial production shoyu one the basic ingredients used make miso (natural soy sauce). To make koji starter, steamed crumbled, run into large canvas-lined brown rice by by stainless-steel box feet deep), cooled 30°C (86°F), and mixed with small amount (about 2%) the ash of deciduous tree such camellia

154

of

Rice and Incubation Tray Method (Large Commercial Factory Scale)

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culture collection, small ampul, petri dish growing culture tube nutrient agar medium. You may then want maintain this culture part agar stock culture and also transfer slants for use finally make tempeh starter. You will keep the cultures pure. want use sterile technique growing tempeh starter on agar The technique slants (rather than on soybeans rice) not widely expensive, time consum used commercially since ing, and small scale. Nor well suited for use less developed countries such Indonesia. used typically for small fermenters with small output for tempeh. Agar, how small laboratory-scale batches ever, does have the advantage that the spores can be washed off the substrate more easily and with much higher recovery legume rate than off grain substrates. For more details on sterile technique the following you order tempeh starter from

may either be freeze-dried inside

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GROWING TEMPEH STARTER ON AGAR USING STERILETECHNIQUE

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oak, then inoculated with pure-culture Aspergillus oryzae mold spores and mixed well. covered with burlap sacks and incubated for 28 hours room that kept percent relative 26°C (79°F) and humidity. The rice then stirred with sterile shovel cups and incubated for more hours. Now about the inoculated rice are spread sterilized shallow by wooden trays (each 1% inches deep), which relatively sterile large are stacked and incubated days. The mycelium room 24.5°C (76°F) for broken up hand twice during the incubation. The finished mycelium then broken up again and the trays are transferred drying rooms 45°C (113°F) days. Finally the starter processed into for either three textures which are sold commercially: whole-grain texture made by lightly crumbling the mycelium-bound rice grains; meal texture made by grinding the whole-grain starter; and spore-powder texture made by sifting the whole-grain starter collect the spores, whereafter the grains are discarded. The latter the most popular and most concentrated form; grams will inoculate 440 pounds (uncooked) soybeans, rice, barley make koji. At the factory, the starter stored sealed aluminum foil or cello phane packets fairly between and 15°C (41-50°F) low humidity. never frozen, since upon thawing many the spores die. Freeze-drying also not practiced since expensive and hard except making koji, just prior small quantities. inocula tion, the starter usually mixed with flour used an extender, which allows more uniform inoculation. detailed description this process and the equipment used given Miso Production available exclusively from the New-Age Foods Study Center listed at the back of this book. 3

jar

containing 4 to 5 tablespoons water and covered with the lid left ajar. Autoclave at 121°C (250°F) for 20 minutes. Remove contents of autoclave and place on clean table. Put cover loosely atop baby-food jar but do not seal. Allow to cool for about 20 minutes, or until just below body temperature, then seal lid on baby-food jar tightly. Put on sterile gown and face mask. Use measuring spoon to transfer 1 teaspoon freeze-dried tempeh starter (or teaspoon pure Rhizopus spore powder) from triple sealed packet (in refrigerator) into baby-food jar. Seal jar and shake well. Unwrap water syringe and draw out syringe full the spore suspension. Open cotton plug first orange juice jar jar facing sideways) and spray (keep mouth ml spore suspension evenly possible over surface rice, then replace plug. Repeat until all jars are inoculated. Place jars incubator 32°C (90°F) for days, until rice covered with black, sporulated cloth-wrapped mold. Now place autoclave 10-inch-long knife, orange juice jars containing total cups water, mortar and pestle, knife scraper, and %-teaspoon measuring spoon, each wrapped paper, petri dishes, and all cloth centrifuge jars. Autoclave the same temperature and chop mycelium-bound rice time before. Use knife into 1-inch pieces. Add 1% cups sterile water each jars, shake until water turns black and spores the have gone into suspension, then decant this spore suspension back into the two now empty water jars. settle, then decant off liquid, Cover and allow spores leaving concentrated black liquid spore solution each jar. Pour this solution into centrifuge jars and centrifuge minutes, 1500 3500 RPM for until spores form black paste the bottom each jar. Decant off supernatant then scrape out paste with sterile spoon, transferring paste into sterile petri dryer dishes. Place dishes weak vacuum (26 mercury) and dry inches 46°C (115°F) for hours, until well dried and flaky. Using scraper, petri dishes and put into scrape dried spores out sterilized mortar and pestle; grind fine powder, teaspoon into each then package small Ziploc bags (no need sterilize). The starter one bag will tempeh. make 50 pounds

A

face mask placed in a paper bag, and a baby-food

redness; flame the handle slightly also. Holding the tube under a hood, remove tube plug (hold it in your hand with your little finger) and flame neck of tube. After loop has cooled for at least five seconds, remove a loopful of organisms; do not touch loop to sides of tube.

Fig. 9. 14 Removing Spores from Culture Tube

Flame mouth of tube again, return plug to tube, and place tube in its rack. Remove the lid or plug from a petri dish or culture tube under the hood. Drag loop in a zig-zag pattern along sterile nutrient agar medium in

plate or tube to streak the medium, then cover plate or tube. Flame loop again before putting it away. Incubate culture on the agar at 28°C (82°F) for 7 days, then store at 4°C in a fridge. Fig. 9. 15 Streaking Agar Slant

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Transferring a Starter Pellet from a Small Sealed Ampul: Make a file scratch on the small (1%-inch-long) hermetically sealed glass tube, sterilize the outer surface by wiping with alcohol or some other disinfec tant, and break open ampul inside a wrapping of sterile cotton. Remove the tiny (1/8-inch long) dry pellet of starter and dissolve in approximately 1 milliliter of water (sterilized by autoclaving) or nutrient broth. Streak immediately on suitable plates as described above. Single colonies can be isolated in a few days. Transferring a Starter from Agar to a Soybean or Rice Substrate: Let us assume that you now want to use agar substrate. Pressure cook water the spores on glass pounds for covered beaker, flask, minutes sterilize then allow cool room temper pipette about teaspoon) ature. Pour the sterile water (using sterile pipette) into the culture spore tube. Shake tube from side side make suspension; plug with careful not moisten

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laboratory manuals are useful: H. J. Benson, Micro biological Applications: A Laboratory Manual in General Microbiology (Wm. C. Brown Co., Dubuque, Iowa, 1973); M. L. Wheelis and W. P. Segal, Introduc tion to the Microbial World: Laboratory Manual (Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, 1979). About Nutrient Agar Media: Agar is a complex poly saccharide derived from seaweed; it is not utilizable as a food source by most microorganisms. It has the unusual property of dissolving at 95°C (203°F) but remaining liquid when cooled until about 45°C (113°F). At about 40°C (104°F) it gels. For culture media, 1.5 grams of agar powder are usually dissolved in 100 grams hot water. Nutrient agar is a commercially available blend of nutrients and agar, usually sold in powdered or flake form. Two major suppliers are Difco in Detroit, Michigan and Baltimore Biological Laboratories in Baltimore, Maryland (see Appendix A). A type of nutrient agar widely used for growing tempeh starter is called Potato Dextrose Agar (PDA). Rusmin and Ko (1974) grew their tempeh starter on a culture medium containing 6 percent sucrose, 2 percent agar, and 10 percent mungbean sprout extract. Another type of nutrient agar contains a nutrient broth consisting of beef extract (a hot water extract of beef), peptone (derived from partial enzymatic digestion of protein), amino acids, peptides, minerals, and trace elements essential for microbial nutrition. Preparing Agar Slants or Plates: Combine the dehy drated nutrient agar with water as directed in a flask or beaker; heat to 100°C (212°F) to dissolve agar. For Agar Slants: Pour agar medium into culture tubes to fill each one about one-quarter full. Seal mouth of tubes with a metal cap or cotton cork or plug, then put tubes in a basket or rack and sterilize by auto claving for 15 to 20 minutes at 15 pounds pressure. Now place tubes on a special rack that holds each tube at a 20 degree angle to the horizontal and allow to cool until the agar forms a slant. For Agar Plates: Autoclave the entire flask for 15 to 20 minutes at 15 pounds pressure. Have ready glass petri dishes (also called petri plates) that have been dry sterilized by placing them in a sealed paper bag and heating them in an oven at 160°C (320°F) for 3 hours. Cool the nutrient agar in the flask to 50°C (122°F) by immersing the flaskin cold water. Hold at 50°C (122°F) for five minutes. Remove the plug in the flask and flame the mouth over a bunsen burner. Lift up the lid of a petri dish just enough to pour in agar to a depth of '4 inch, then close the lid and let it cool. Transferring a Stock Culture to an Agar Plate or Slant: The method used depends on the form in which you receive your stock culture: Transferring a Tempeh Mold Growing on Agar in a Culture Tube: Let us assume that you want to remove only a small portion of the stock culture to make an intermediate culture or mother culture: Flame a wire inoculating loop over a bunsen burner by heating it to

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

155

GROWING TEMPEHSTARTER ON OTHER SUBSTRATES (WESTERNMETHODS) Using Wheat Bran as a Substrate: Wang et (1975) found that wheat bran:water (10:8) substrate produced excellent spore development, however when tempeh starter, the distinct dark brown was used specks the wheat bran gave what was considered unfavorable appearance the final product. Yap, 1960, successfully grew tempeh starter wheat bran 37°C (98.6°F) for days. This was then freeze-dried gram and ground; starter was used inoculate precooked beans. each kilogram growing starter Before developing their method soybeans, Steinkraus al. (1960) used wheat bran large scale experiments. substrate for the inoculum Pure Rhizopus mold culture was inoculated medium consisting 100 grams wheat bran moistened with 300 acidified soybean soak water sterilized Fernbach flask for minutes 120°C (248°F). The culture was incubated 37°C (99°F) for days during sporulated heavily. which time was then freeze dried (lyophilized) and ground through 20-mesh Wiley mill. One gram screen inoculum was used inoculate cooked soybeans. Using Rice Flour Substrate: The following process was developed grams Yeoh (1977): rice flour were placed sterile glass jar covered with sterile petri dish cover. One PDA slant 150 Rhizopus, mm test tube) which several ml distilled water was added and shaken, was used inoculate the grams flour. Mixed aseptically, was incubated 32°C (90°F) for hours. Then the glass cover was replaced piece tissue paper tied firmly over the container's mouth. The container was transferred dry the 37°C (99°F) incubator fitted with blower inoculum, which was stirred aseptically daily break up the mass. After 48 hours, when the inoculum was dry, yield was pulverized sterile blender inoculum powder. Using Bread Cubes Substrate: Blue cheese starter molds are commonly grown 1-cm cubes whole wheat white bread which contains no mold inhibitor. Autoclaved and cooled while shaking prevent lumping, they are inoculated and incubated high humidity. They are days 21°C (70°F) for mill, and packaged. The then dried, pulverized adapted tempeh starter same process might well preparation. Using Tapioca, Sweet Potato, Okara Substrates: Country Store Health Foods near Los Joan Harriman Angeles uses the following method with tapioca cup substrate: extended tempeh starter mixed cups water are slowly with pound tapioca flour then spread out mixed form dough. The dough fairly thin layer and kept room temperature (it's days until begins warm L.A.) for crack. Then sun-dried for hours until the cracking tablespoon extensive. Finally crumbled and a

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For larger scale production, the culture may be grown on agar slants in petri dishes and then washed off using sterile glass balls. Practical Examples; from Stock Culture to Starter: One method for transferring tempeh mold spores from an agar slant to various grain and legume substrates is given at Rice, Petri Dish, and Glove Box Method, above. The following method was used by Hesseltine et al. (1963) to make tempeh starter on a small scale. Dispense a potato-dextrose-agar solution into culture tubes, heat-sterilize the media and cool until it jells. Working under a hood or in a sterile transfer chamber, use a sterile inoculating loop to remove pure-culture Rhizopus mold spores from the stock culture growing on nutrient agar in another culture tube (15 x 130 mm); use the spores to inoculate the new agar slants. Plug each inoculated tube with a cotton stopper and incubate at 25°C (77°F) for 7 days. Add 1% ml of sterile water to the culture in each tube and shake from side to side for 1 minute to make a spore suspension (or brush the mycelium with a sterile inoculating loop). Now use 0.2 ml of this spore suspension (which contains 200,000 viable counts) to inoculate 20 grams of rice in each of various petri dishes. Or 1% ml may be used to inoculate 300 grams of dehulled, cooked soybeans. Isolating a Pure Culture Tempeh Starter: To isolate a pure culture strain from a mixture of strains growing together on an agar slant in a culture tube, remove a tiny portion of the mixed mold culture from the tube using a sterile inoculating loop or transfer needle. Mix this mold with a large volume of sterile water (sold as dilution water or dilution blanks), then place small drops of this mixture, which contain on average only one mold spore, on a number of sterile agar slants in culture tubes. Incubate at 32°C until rings of mold culture have begun to grow. By examining any particular culture by eye or using a magnifying glass, an experienced observer can tell the strain of the mold and whether or not the culture contains only one strain. When a single-strain pure culture desired for tempeh is isolated, it is used as a stock culture and carefully stored or propagated.

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now considered standard Indonesian. Two general types Indonesian terms for starters (i.e., for bread, wine, tapeh, tempeh, etc.) are ragi and bibit. Ragi may also specifically used refer “Indonesian yeast cakes,” widely sold the form small beige discs and used primarily inoculate tapeh. The term ragi tempeh (i.e., ragi for tempeh), which one Indonesia, virtually always used hears frequently synonym for laru waru, rather than refer Malang, these yeast cakes used inoculate tempeh. East Java, however, the term ragi tempeh can apparently have two different meanings. The most popular usage refers starter grown the sandwiched hibiscus leaf method; 1970 Dwidjosepu tra and Wolf found that this starter contains Rhizopus arrhizus, oligosporus and Mucor rouxii oryzae,

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SANDWICHED HIBISCUS LEAF SOYBEAN METHOD (Laru, Waru, Usar) or

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making tempeh starter The most popular way Indonesia involves the use hibiscus leaves (Hibiscus tiliaceus Linn), whose common name Java waru puteh. The green leaves are inches diameter and come from 15-to-30-foot-tall tree that grows throughout the country. Hibiscus used because the underside of each leaf covered with downy hairs (known technically trichomes), which the mold mycelium and spores can adhere. (In some regions other leaves with hairs, especially teak—Tectona grandis; called jati Indo nesia—are also used.) This ingenious method probably popular because produces the purest grown on traditional starter. When the mold soybeans sandwiched between two leaves, the leaves shield the mold from outside alien microorganisms, first during sporulation and later during drying and storage. Most tempeh makers produce batch their own hibiscus-leaf starter once each week, using leaves so

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molds. However less common usage refers special yeast cake starter consisting rice flour and tempeh molds that tempeh inoculum. also used While there are both advantages and disadvantages the use mixed cultures (see Appendix Book of Tempeh, professional edition), the methods, them selves, yield starters that can prepared locally little cost and that produce high-quality tempeh. weight Since the volume the inoculum, however, cannot be easily measured, the amount used must be estimated, which requires considerable experience and skill, and can occasionally result failures. Moreover,

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Most of the tempeh starter in Indonesia is prepared weekly by tempeh craftsmen in their shops, with spores from one batch generally being used to inoculate the next. Because of the use of natural materials (such as tree leaves or river water) and the lack of a sterile en vironment, the resulting starters have traditionally consisted of mixed rather than pure cultures. In spite of this, however, and for reasons explained at Principles, above, contamination of the tempeh by unwanted microorganisms almost never seems to be a problem. Six methods of making tempeh starter are now used in Indonesia; the first five are traditional, having evolved over hundreds of years, while the sixth is a recent development. All yield mixed-culture starters. In order of popularity they are: 1. Sandwiched-Hibiscus-Leaf & Soybean Method: Soybeans inoculated with Rhizopus molds (during the process of making tempeh) are sandwiched between hibiscus leaves and incubated until the molds sporulate. In some areas, teak leaves are used in place of hibiscus. The finished product is known as laru, waru, or usar. We would estimate that more than 80 percent of prepared Indonesian tempeh starter this way. Contact-Leaf Method: Hibiscus, banana, other leaves are laid atop the inoculated beans during mycelium grows fermentation that the leaves, which are then used to inoculate the next batch of tempeh. Sporulated-Tempeh Method: Thin (surface) sporulate, and then tempeh are allowed slices powder, used directly sun-dried and ground which used inoculate subsequent batches. Unsporulated-Fresh-Tempeh Method: Fresh pieces good-quality (uncooked) tempeh are simply crushed or broken and mixed with cooked beans ready widespread reports inoculated. Contrary Western journal articles on tempeh, this method rarely used. Ragi Method: Cooked soybeans are inoculated by crumbling small dry yeast cakes (called ragi) over them. Ragi used mostly, however, for inoculating Glossary Tempeh, tapeh (see The Book professional edition). Rhizopus Modern Rice-Substrate Method: sporulation on substrate molds are grown cooked rice rather than the usual cooked soybeans. Both mixed-culture village methods and pure-culture labora tory methods have been developed. grown Most Indonesian tempeh starter leaves. Central and East Java, such leaf-grown tempeh

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mixed with % cup tapioca flour to make an inoculum for 1 pound soy tempeh. Sweet potato and okara have been used as starter substrates in much the same way.

157

from trees that grow near their shops. In some markets, however, ready-made hibiscus starter leaves are also sold, and some makers are willing to pay the extra money to save the time and work of having to prepare their own. Fig. 9.17 Picking Starter

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Then place a second leaf of about the same size congruently, underside down, atop the first leaf to form a sandwich of two leaves with inoculated soybeans between them. Proceed to make 50 or 60 such sand wiches until the tray is full, with 4 to 6 sandwich layers. Fold the sides and ends of the plastic over the top of the leaves, and place the tray on a double thickness of gunny sacking (jute bags) on a clean section of floor or on a sturdy bench or shelf. Prepare 4 to 6 more similar trays filled with hibiscus-leaf “sandwiches” and stack them atop the first tray, then cover the stack with a single gunny sack and allow to stand for 5 to 6 hours, while the heat of fermentation develops. Fig. 9.19 Covering Hibiscus Leaf Sandwiches in Trays

The methods for preparing hibiscus starter leaves vary from shop to shop. The following is that used by the fairly large Oeben plant in Bandung (see Chapter 6). Line a large slatted wooden tray (approximately 36 by 16 by 1% inches deep) with a sheet of perforated plastic. Place a hibiscus leaf on the bottom of the tray with the underside of the leaf facing up. Sprinkle 30 to 40 inoculated soybean halves (or whole beans) over the surface of the leaf. Fig. 9.18 Arranging Inoculated Soybeans on Hibiscus Leaves

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Now unstack the trays and arrange them in a single layer on special starter incubation racks. Allow them to stand for about 24 hours more, or until the mold has sporulated. Transfer the leaf sandwiches to large wooden trays, which are not lined or covered with plastic, arranging the sandwiches in a single layer over the bottom of each tray. Place the trays back in the racks and allow to stand for 3 to 6 more days, or until the leaves are well dried (which facilitates removal of the beans and spores) and the edges of each leaf are slightly upturned. (In many shops, the leaves are then briefly sun-dried.) Fig. 9.20 Hibiscus Leaves for Tempeh Starter Ready to Use

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To test the leaves for doneness, pull one pair gently apart. The two undersurfaces should be bound together by and covered with a black or dark-gray mycelium. The individual soybean particles, which are also

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covered with this mycelium, should be firm and quite dry. A large leaf used during a warm season will inoculate up to 20 pounds of dry soybeans that have been cooked; a small leaf used during a cool or cold season will inoculate only about 6 pounds.

VARIATIONS While basically the same method is used in most shops, there are a number of interesting variations suited to differences of scale and available equipment. The following are used at one or more shops we visited: 20-inch-diameter trays made of woven raffia or split bamboo; 7 to 10 pairs of leaves are placed in a single layer on each tray.

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In cold weather, cakes of finished tempeh are crumbled and spread over the surface of each leaf in place of the inoculated soybeans; thin boards are placed atop the layer of leaves on the tray and allowed to press for 2 days to prevent the leaf edges from curling; the trays and leaves are then placed on the rooftop in direct sunlight more days, being taken each night after sunset; they are now ready use.

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MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

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contents, cut fine, and sprinkled leaf is emptied of convey the fungus.” Finally, over the beans order the beans are wrapped banana leaf packets, heaped together, and covered for hours, after which they are uncovered, cooled, and sold. Today, finished teak leaf pairs are often dried front fire (which, unfortunately, kills some the spores), then crumbled over the cooked beans, the leaf being added the beans together with the spores. Traditionally, this method also said have been used with starter grown hibiscus leaves.

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Malaysian Rambai Leaves: Malaysia rambai rough, leaves (Baccaurea motleyana) which have porous surface are wrapped single layer around portion inoculated soybeans, then these leaves are wrapped with two three layers banana leaves, which are tied into bundle. The bundles are stacked pile and the pile covered with gunny sack conserve heat. After 40 hours room temperature the contact leaves and the tempeh are ready. The leaves are used like hibiscus leaves. at

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any This method may involve the use various leaves: banana (Musa brachycarpa M. paradisiaca), hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus H. similis), teak (Tectona grandis), Erythrina species. Basically the leaves are placed next inoculated soybeans during incubation grow that mold begins the leaf, which later used subsequent tempeh inoculate batches. This method prepared has the advantage that the starter the special same time and together with the tempeh; trays other equipment needed and fresh starter can be easily produced small quantities each day, which ensures greater potency. Yet the method not nearly widely used the previous hibiscus “sand wich” technique since the latter shields the sporulated mold from contaminating microorganisms, keeping quite pure until ready for use. Moreover, starter grown using the sandwich technique much more potent; one leaf will inoculate six twenty times many beans with the contact leaf method. The choice between the various types leaves depends primarily on which more readily available. Hibiscus, Teak, Erythrina Leaves: Place number of leaves with the underside down over the tray surface inoculated soybeans on another leaf wrapper. Cover the leaves (and the beans) with perforated plastic layer either sheet perforated banana leaves, wrap small packet additional layers leaf wrappers. When the tempeh finished, lift off the contact leaves, the incubation downy lower surface which should now be covered with an abundant white mycelium. Dry the leaves the sporulation will often occur sun then store them dry place until they are needed inoculate new tempeh. batch the leaves have picked up any moisture they are often dried, just before use, near smouldering charcoal until they are crisp, embers dry, and slightly yellow. some cases the leaves are rubbed over the surface the cooked soybeans rub off the spores and inoculate the beans. others they are crumbled and the powdered material including leaf fragments mixed with the beans. One leaf will generally inoculate dry soybeans that 1% pounds

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ragi detailed description “Indonesian cakes” see the Glossary the professional Tempeh. This method, which edition The Book not widely used, was first described Tammes (1950). spread tray, Rice flour (or cassava flour) sprinkled with water moisten then inoculated crumbling previous cake ragi over surface. After sporulation dried and kept the form cakes which contain spores and mycelial elements, especially chlamydospores. One tablespoon the crushed ragi pounds inoculates about cooked soybeans. The ragi usually used, however, inoculate tapeh. For

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tray and incubate indoors (uncovered) at room temperature for 12 to 48 hours, or until the mold sporulates. Now place the slices on the tray outdoors in direct sunlight for 1 to 2 days, or until well dried. Using a clean mortar or pestle, gently grind or pound the slices to form a powder. Place this in a clean bottle or plastic bag and store in a cool, dry place; it should keep for at least 3 months. Approximately 2 tablespoons of this powder (or only 1 gram if it is very strong) is required to inoculate 2.2 pounds (1 kg) of dry soybeans to make tempeh. In Indonesia a similar product is now sold commercially as Laru Powder for about US$3.65 per kilogram. One teaspoon will inoculate 2.2 pounds (1 kg) of cooked beans. Made in private shops or homes, it is used by an estimated 10 percent of Indonesian tempeh shops.

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Hermana al. (1973) developed simple method preparing powdered tempeh starter that inexpensive, can be measured accurately, and keeps longer than traditional starters. Experimenting with tempeh molds grown on rice steamed cassava flour, and with sporulated tempeh, they found that rice was the best substrate since produced consistently good tempeh the shortest incubation time. Their method requires no special equipment and works well traditional non produce an excellent starter that sterile environment, can be made by traditional rural craftsmen low cost. Rusmin and Ko (1974) developed related method pure-culture starter and incubator; that utilizes tempeh starter tropical suited for mass-culture climates. Hermana's Method: Combine liter (approximately 800 gm) polished white rice with 1% liters water large covered pot. Bring boil, simmer for minutes, then remove from heat and allow stand covered for 30 minutes more. Break rice (which should not be too wet) into clumps that can be separated easily and spread 3/8-inch-thick layer on clean bamboo trays; allow body temperature. colanders cool Sprinkle teaspoons any type traditional tempeh starter over the rice, then mix thoroughly. Cover with plastic sheeting, place 80°F), humid warm (27°C (R.H. =80%) environment, and allow stand for days, until rice covered with black sporulated

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propagated mainly by this method the mold fast-growing mycelia means and lesser extent by chlamydospores (see Tempeh, 179 The Book professional edition). literature about Indonesian tempeh, statements such the following frequently appear: “Indonesians tempeh from previous batch use small bits inoculate the cooked beans for the next batch,” or tempeh from previous “Now well-made piece batch (dried fresh) broken into small pieces and heap mixed with cooked soybeans.” Our research has shown that such methods are not widely used since give tempeh with weaker mycelium than they tend that made with sporulated starter. The vitality the culture may gradually decrease, and the incubation longer than usual. time using unsporulated tempeh The first report an inoculum was by Stahel (1946), who described how well-made tempeh cake weighing 2.1 ounces was heap broken into several pieces and mixed well with prefermented, drained beans weighing pounds. tempeh About 1% hours later the pieces inoculum were removed. After renewed mixing, the beans, which then contained about 60 percent water, ready were be wrapped leaf packets for incubation. Bandung occasionally makes The Oeben plant sun-drying fresh tempeh slices which have inoculum not sporulated, then grinding them and storing the powder bag. One shop we visited Bali explained that during the sporulate and sun cold season, when was difficult dry tempeh slices, fresh tempeh was simply crushed and used inoculum. We too have had good results with this method described earlier this chapter.

MAKING TEMPEH STARTER

161

mold. Then uncover and place in a clean, windless, sunny location for at least 1 full day, or until well dried. Finally grind to a powder with a clean mortar and pestle or a small hand mill. (Or omit grinding and rub spores from rice using 750 grams wheat flour having a maximum moisture content of 7 percent.) Sift through a 60-mesh screen (i.e., one having 60 openings per linear inch) and store this “starter base” in a tightly sealed plastic bag inside an airtight container at room temperature (25°C or 77°F). Rusmin and Ko’s Method (1974): Cook rice as described above, then inoculate with 8 ml agar spore suspension of pure-culture starter. Prepare aluminum trays each 12.2 by 4.3 by 0.6 inches deep, with the bottom and lid perforated by 1-mm-diameter holes in a grid pattern every 9% inch. Spread inoculated rice in a loose, 3/8-inch-thick layer in each tray, cover, and incubate in a standard incubator without air circulation at 37°C (98.6°F) for 8 days (or at 30°C or 86°F for 2 to 3 weeks) or until thoroughly dried (the moisture content decreases from 67 percent to 5 percent or less; as well as darkening, the rice mass shrinks dramatically and becomes crusty). Then grind in a blender to obtain a starter base, 1 gram of which contains 100 million to 1 billion spores and will inoculate 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) dry beans which have been cooked. In a subsequent publication, Ko recommended a slight modification of this method: After inoculating the rice, break up the mycelium daily for 4 days at 30°C (86°F), then cover the tray with Kleenex tissue and dry in an aerated incubator at 37°C (99°F) for 5 days.

162

INDONESIAN TEMPEH STARTER

Extending the Starter Base: In order to lower the price and aid mixing when making tempeh, this starter base can be extended with wheat flour (max. 7% moisture), rice flour, or tapioca. One part by weight of starter base mixed with 20 parts flour gave a starter of 5 percent concentration that consistently produced good tempeh. The most dilute starter that produced good tempeh was 0.3-percent starter made by mixing 1 part by weight of starter base with 320 parts flour. One gram of either dilution will inoculate 250 grams of cooked soybeans for tempeh. The incubation time for the 0.3-percent starter was only about 32 percent longer than for the 5-percent starter. The 0.3-percent starter is very inexpensive to produce since 1 pound of rice will grow enough starter to inoculate 8.3 tons of dry soybeans

that have been cooked.

Storing the Starter: The various dilutions of this starter all have a shelf life of 3 to 6 months when stored in a closed container at room temperature (77°F). The time required to make tempeh with 10-week old starter is only 19 percent longer than with fresh starter, and from 10 weeks until 6 months the time remains unchanged.

A : ReSources : People and Institutions Connected

n the professional edition of The Book of Tempeh there is an extensive listing of people and institutions connected with tempeh including ten researchers and research institutes in North and South America, five researchers and research institutes in Europe and Australia, forty-one researchers and research institutes in East Asia (mostly Indonesia), and five major tempeh and onchom producers in Indonesia. Those names and addresses will not be repeated here.

C.

S.

J.

C.

of

of

at

stone dehullers.

Hobart Corp., World Headquarters Blvd., Troy, OH 45374. vegetable peelers and slicers Tel. 513-335-7171. Maker of

the many larger producers.

suitable for wet dehulling.

of

Kerry Sandford, 1324 Broadway, Ann Arbor, Michigan Bicycle Bean Busters. 48105. Tel. 313-761-6112. Maker Lee Engineering Co., 2023 W. Wisconsin Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53201. Tel. 414-933-2100. Maker mills suitable for

office. Cleaver-Brooks,

of

P.O. Box 421-T, Milwaukee, WI 53201. Tel. large nationwide manufacturer. 414-962-0100. Pottstown, Old Redding Rd., Stowe, Columbia Boiler Co. PA 19464. Tel. 215-323-2700. Kewanee Boiler Corp., 101 Franklin St., Kewanee, 61443. large nationwide manufacturer. Tel. 309-853-3541. Spring St., Los Angeles, CA McKenna Boiler Works, 1510 food-grade boilers 90012. Tel. 213-221-1171. maker with descalers. Parker Boiler Co., 2035 37th St., Los Angeles, CA 90058. Tel. 213-233-8263.

R

E.

high-quality, hand mills, made by Landers Co. America. Mail order.

&

Tel. 801-563-3333. Source

low-price Corona Colombia, South

IN

Urschel Labs., 2503 Calumet Ave., Valparaiso, 46383. Tel. 219-464-4811. Food slicers, dicers, and cutters suitable for wet dehulling.

COOKERS

COOLER-DRYERS

of

IL

DEWATERERS

&

of

Bean Machines, Inc., P.O. Box 76, Bodega, CA 94922. Tel. Japanese-style tofu caldrons. 707-876-3341. source Groen, Inc., 1900 Pratt Blvd., Elk Grove Village, 60007. Tel. 312-439-2400. Maker steam jacketed kettles. Hamilton Kettles, 11861 Mosteller Rd., Cincinnati, OH

A

in

A

of

of

N.

IL

A

IL

of

D

of

A

dry dehulling. St.), North Meadows Mill Co., P.O. Drawer 1288 (West Wilkesboro, NC 28659. Tel. 919-838-2282. Maker buhr stone and metal mills for dry dehulling. Reynolds Electric Co., 1800 Madison, Maywood, 60153. vegetable peelers for wet Tel. 312-625-2232. Maker dehulling. Mill Co., 45 West First North, Smithfield, UT 84335.

of

&

S.

Ajax Boiler Main, Gardena, CA Heater Co., 17600 90247. Tel. 213-321-2815. They also have an East Coast

R

of

a

few

soybeans.

Bell Co., P.O. Box 291, Tiffin, OH 44833. Tel. 419. 448-0791. Maker the Milpa Power Mill. Ford Mfg. Co., 548 So. Monterey Pass Rd., Monterey Park, CA 91754. Tel. 213-576-8671. Maker of motorized

in

of

in

1,

dehulling

or

of

C-E Bauer, P.O. Box 968, Springfield, OH 45501. Tel. 513. 390-3400. Maker burr buhr mills well suited for

BOILERS are but

a

of

of

of

or

DEHULLERS

at

II,

While few of these companies make equipment especially for tempeh production, many of their machines can be adapted for that use. For additional up-to-date information on relevant equipment, Grocery food processing see the Thomas Register, Vol. Buyers Guide, available most libraries. Or publications look ads the food industry listed Chapter with addresses the end this Appendix.

The following

to

to

6

iron caldrons (called sugar kettles) from 45 gallons capacity ($20 $128). They work well when heated with large gas burner wood fire. Lee Industries, 524 W. Pine St., Philipsburg, PA 16866. Tel. 814-342-0412. Maker steam jacketed kettles. Legion Equipment Co., 21-0740th Ave., Long Island City, NY 11101. Tel. 212-786-4930. Or P.O. Box 698, Waynesboro, regular and self GA 30830. Tel. 404-554-7966. Maker contained steam jacketed kettles. Vulcan Hart Corp., P.O. Box 696, Louisville, KY 40201. Tel. regular and self-contained steam 502-778-2791. Maker jacketed kettles and candy stoves.

PRODUCERS OF TEMPEHEQUIPMENT AND PACKAGING IN NORTHAMERICA

at

with Tempeh Production

&

Appendix

3600 Summit Rd., Toledo, OH 43611. Tel. centrifugal extractors. 419-726-2645. Maker Tetko Inc., 420 Sawmill River Rd., Elmsford, NY 10523. Tel. good source types 914-592-5010. screens (nylon,

Bock Extractors,

163

of

all

of

A

of

&

of

of

45241. Tel. 513-771-2300. Maker steam jacketed kettles. Hardy Newsom, P.O. Box 158, Lagrange, NC 28551. Tel. 919-566-3111. Maker excellent hard-to-find, large cast

Does custom

of

polyester, wire, etc.) as for cooling tables. work. Also sells filters.

603-627-3861. Maker incubators.

Kal-Lite nonporous

surfacing

for

The Thomas Grocery Register lists over 100 producers. All-Fill Inc., 4021 West Chester Pike, Newton Square, PA 19073. Tel. 215-353-1100. Maker of low-cost screw fillers. Holmatic Inc., 130 Beacon St., So. San Francisco, CA 94080.

tempeh incubation trays. United Electric Controls, 85 School St., Watertown, MA 02172. Tel. 617-926-1000. Maker of thermostats. Wyott Corp., P.O. Box 1188T, Cheyenne, WY 82001. Tel. rolling racks (pan racks). 307-634-5801. Maker

Tel. 415-871-9930. Maker of medium-priced semiautomatic filling machines suitable for filling tempeh containers. Hinds Bock, 2799 152nd N.E., Redmond, WA 98052. Tel. 206-885-1183. Maker of low-cost piston fillers. Simplex Filler Co., 3450 Arden Rd., Hayward, CA 94545. Tel. 415-785-8010. Maker of good, inexpensive fillers suitable for filling tempeh containers.

INOCULANT MIXERS Berkel Inc., One Berkel Dr., La Porte, IN 46350. Tel. 219 326-7000. Maker of vertical mixers. Hobart Corp., World Headquarters Blvd., Troy, OH 45374. Tel. 513-335-7171. Maker of vertical mixers. Leland Detroit Mfg. Co., P.O. Drawer 10039, Detroit, MI 48210. Tel. 313-896-7910. Maker the Leland hamburger mixer, good for use making tempeh. Reynolds Electric Co., 1800 Madison St., Maywood, 60153. Tel. 312-625-2232. Maker various large mixers. Products, Walley Ave., Rubbermaid Commercial 3124 Winchester, VA 22601. Tel. 703-667-8700. Maker Brute

Co., Demarest Rd., Sparta, NJ 07871. Maker of walk-in refrigerators and

Electric Co., 1 River Rd., Schenectady, NY 12345. types Tel. 518-374-2211. Maker of freezers and

as

of

PACKAGING EQUIPMENT

HEAT SEALERS

of

all

lengthy listing companies making polyethylene tofu tubs and printed film for heat sealing, plus tofu packaging Appendix given Soymilk machines Tofu producers Production. The Thomas Grocery Register lists heat sealers. Most companies that sell polyethylene bags also sell low-cost heat sealers.

of

Kelvinator Commercial Products, 621 Quay St., Manitowoc, refrigerators and WI 54220. Tel. 414-682-0156. Maker

&

of

of

75

ators and freezers.

A

of

Hobart Corp., World Headquarters Blvd., Troy, OH 45374. Tel. 513-335-7171. Maker reach-in and walk-in refriger

is

A

refrigerators.

of

General

in

Geldback Refrigerator Tel. 210-383-6368. freezers.

brand containers and polyethylene boxes that work well low-cost inoculant mixing containers. Write for beautiful free catalog.

&

The Thomas Grocery Register lists many producers of dehydrators and tray dryers. Cleveland Range Co., 1333 E. 179th St., Cleveland, OH 44110. Tel. 216-481-4900. Maker of Steam Chef multi-pan pressure steam cookers and boilers.

of

IL

in

of

FREEZERS, COOLERS, AND OTHER PRESERVATION EQUIPMENT

of

of

FILLING MACHINES

Philipps Products Co., P.O. Box 766 (1857 Calvin Dr.), Hopkinsville, KY 42240. Tel. 502-886-5476. Maker Bakester pallet trays, heavy-duty latticed trays suitable for

freezers.

of

Clamco Corp., 12900 Plaza Dr., Cleveland, OH 44130. Tel. 216-267-1911. Maker low-cost foot pedal heat sealers. Lydell Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53217. Tel. Oster Corp., 5055 414-332-8300. Maker low-cost heat sealers. See also your local phone directory. Packaging Aids Corp., P.O. Box 77203 (469 Bryant), San Francisco, CA 94107. Tel. 415-362-9202. Maker of low-cost vacuum packagers ($1800). Sears. See your local phone directory. Maker Seal-N-Save low-cost heat sealers. of

N.

HULL SEPARATORS of

Oliver Mfg. Co., P.O. Box 512 (17777 Highway 50), Rocky Ford, CO 81067. Tel. 303-254-6371. Maker gravity

ROLLING RACKS

IL

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Ferrell-Ross Inc., 517-792-8723. dryers.

1621 So.

Maker

Wheeler, Saginaw, MI 48602. Tel. Clipper graders, cleaners, and

TEMPEH CONTAINERS of

Airtight Container Inc., 519 Gladys Ave., Los Angeles, CA high-density polyethy 90013. Tel. 213-624-4349. Maker lene tubs suitable for tofu packaging. Co., 300 Park Ave., New York, NY 10022. Colgate-Palmolive Baggies polyethylene bags. Tel. 212-751-1200. Maker of

IL

an

of

of

Honeywell Process Control Div., 1100 Virginia Dr., Fort Washington, PA 19034. Tel. 215-643-1300. Or see your local phone directory Yellow Pages under Controls. Kalwall Corp., 111 Candia Rd., Manchester, NH 03103. Tel.

164

SIZE GRADERS

a

of S.

5th St.), Quincy, very inexpensive thermostat ordinarily used for poultry incubators, also available through the Sears Farm Catalog under Chicken Incubators; Catalog No. 32AF 88022. Crepaco Inc., 8303 W. Higgins Rd., Chicago, 60631. Tel. 312-693-4000. Maker of thermostats. W. W. Grainger Inc., 790 Cottage St., Springfield, MA 01104. catalog Tel. 413-781-7525. Supplier excellent containing many types incubation equipment, including Dayton.

of

Brower Mfg. Co., P.O. Box 251 (640 62301. Tel. 217-222-8561. Maker

&

INCUBATION EQUIPMENT, TRAYS

of

separators and seed cleaners.

of

5

&

of

IL

of

as

Division,

Algonquin,

IL

&

Toastmaster, Food Equipment Tel. 312-658-4511.

60102.

SOURCES OF SOYBEANS IN AMERICA Agricultural Exports Inc. (Strayer Seed Farms), P.O. Box 266 (411 5th St.), Hudson, IA 50643. Attn. George M. Strayer. large wholesaler and exporter Tel. 319-988-4593. hull

free splits and whole soybeans. Bear Specialty Grains, P.O. Box 503, Normal, 61761. Tel. 309-454-2461. W. Randell Co., Box 865 (209 Franklin St.), Cedar Falls, IA 50613. Tel. 319-277-6121. Golden Key Farms, R.R. #2, Grant Park, 60940. Attn. organic soybeans. Frank Pilotte. Supplier Jacob Hartz Seed Co., P.O. Box 946, Stuttgart, AR 72160. Attn. Chris Hartz. Tel. 501-673-8565. Soybean seed and whole soybeans for food use.

IL

Park Ave., New York, NY 10017. Tel. 212-551-3763. Maker of polyethylene Glad sandwich bags.

and breading machines. Pitman Sons Inc., P.O. Box 501, Concord, NH 03301. Tel. 603-225-6684.

of

Schuster Cellophane Co., 4553 Seville Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90058. Tel. 213-582-0921. Maker of films for various types of tofu packaging. Good service and quality. Will do small runs. Union Carbide, Home & Automotive Products Division, 270

Hollymatic Corp., Park Forest, patty 60466. Producers makers for tofu burgers. They also make slicers. Pembertons Food Processing Equipment Inc., P.O. Box 107, Vermillion, OH 44089. Tel. 216-965-4444. Suppliers Koppens continuous automatic fryers, forming and portion ing machines (as for tofu burgers), and automatic batter

A

bags.

Dean Industries, Ltd., P.O. Box 2807, Culver City, CA 90230. Design Process Engineering Inc., Suburban Park Dr., Billerica, MA 01821. Tel. 617-663-6541. Maker high thermal efficiency deep-fryers. Frymaster Corp., P.O. Box 8618, Shreveport, LA 71108. Tel. 318-636-3560.

C.

Oster Corp., 5055 N. Lydell Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53217. Tel. 414-332-8300. Or see your local telephone directory. Maker of boilable bags. Reynolds Metals Co., P.O. Box 27003. Richmond, VA 23261. Tel. 804-282-2311. Maker of Brown-in or Oven-Roasting

PRODUCERS OF DEEP-FRYING EQUIPMENT IN NORTH AMERICA

J.

Dow Chemical Co., P.O. Box 68511, Indianapolis, IN 46268. Tel. 317-873-7000 or 317-266-2000. Maker of polyethylene Ziploc bags. Dow also makes many severely toxic agricultural chemicals and is a bitter foe of environmental ists. Fabrikal, 3303 E. Cork St., Kalamazoo, MI 49001. Tel. 616 382-4923. Maker of polyethylene tofu tubs, part no. 686-20. General Converting Corp., P.O. Box 8395 (1311 63rd St.), Emeryville, CA 94608. Tel. 415-653-2950. Maker of top quality printed heat sealing polymylar film for many US tofu makers. KCL Corp., 1500 Prospect Ave., Shelbyville, IN 46176. Tel. (toll free) 800-428-5431. Maker of seam-sealing polyethy lene bags; brand-named Minigrip and Ziplip.

of

A

of

A

A

A

of

A

of

SOURCES OF TEMPEHSTARTERS AND STOCK CULTURES

A

Dr., American Type Culture Collection, 12301 Parklawn Rockville, MD 20852. Tel. 301-881-2600. non-profit sup plier very small quantities stock cultures; $47 each. of

types polyethylene and stainless steel tanks, hoppers, drums, pails, buckets, ladles, stock pots, mixing paddles, sinks, receptacles, perforated pans, jacketed kettles, brushes, detergents, shelves, and valves. Write for catalog.

of

all

of

United Utensils Co., P.O. Box 710 (22 Yennicock Ave.), Port Washington, NY 11050. Tel. 800-645-1248. Maker of

IL

a

vats, drums, and other large containers.

identity preserved soybeans. saler New Life Foods, 736 Craig Ave. (Hwy. 14), Tracy, MN 56175. large source Tel. 507-629-4543. Attn. Larry Eggen. organic soybeans and hull-free splits. Pacific Soybean Grain Ltd., 495 De Haro, San Francisco, CA 94107. Attn. Dan Burke. Tel. 415-863-0866. source of soybeans on the West Coast. Vegetarian Inc., 1310 W. Main St., Urbana, 61801. Attn. Les Karplus. Tel. 217-359-8843. broker for organic soy beans. America, 5875 Fleur Dr., Des Moines, Wonder Life Corp. 50315. Attn. Lee Cunningham. Tel. 515-287-3770. organic soybeans. source

IA

complete line

of

of

IL

agitators, and valves. Regal Mfg. Co., 1825 W. Newport Ave., Chicago, 60657. Tel. 312-477-8780. Aprons, boots, gloves, and safety clothing. Products, Rubbermaid Commercial 3124 Walley Ave., Winchester, VA 22601. Tel. 703-667-8700. Maker

beans.

Midwest Soya International, 714 W. First St., Cedar Falls, IA large whole 50613. Tel. 319-277-7202. Attn. Jim Dunn.

&

of

all

Meynell Valves, 58 State St., Westbury, NY 11590. Maker of adjustable jet water guns. Corp., Belding, MI 48809. Tel. 616 Process Equipment types tanks, stock pots, 794-1230. A source of

Living Farms, P.O. Box 50 (200% 3rd St.), Tracy, MN 56175. Tel. 507-629-4431. Attn. Ardell Anderson. Organic soy

of

Advance Food Service Equipment Inc., 750 Summa Ave., Westbury, L.I., NY 11590. Tel. 516-333-6444. Sinks, work tables, pans. Bustin Industrial Products, P.O. Box 388, E. Stroudsburg, PA 18301. Tel. 717-424-6500. Maker of metal platforms; useful for mounting cookers. Lambertson Industries, Inc., 460 Valley Dr., Brisbane, CA 94005. Calif. Tel. 800-622-0720. Out of state Tel. 800 227-3382. Sinks, work tables, racks.

IL

C.

VATS, PAILS, PLATFORMS & ACCESSORIES

RESOURCES

165

FOOD SCIENCE,TECHNOLOGY, AND TRADE PERIODICALS

Ann Arbor Bloiogical Center, 6780 Jackson Rd., Ann Arbor, MI 48103. Tel. 800-521-3040 (toll free). A source of commercial

Farm Foods,

tempeh starter.

Ln., Summertown, TN 38483. Tel. 615-964-3574. America's first and main source of tempeh Starter. Northern Regional Research Center, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, IL 61604. A source of very small quantities of stock cultures only. 156 Drakes

Each of the following companies are large producers of other types of starter cultures. Although none of them presently make tempeh starter, they might be willing to if they felt the market were large enough.

Chris Hansen's Laboratory, 9015 W. Maple St., Milwaukee, WI 52315. Tel. 414-476-3630. Dairyland Food Laboratories, Progress Ave., Waukesha, WI 53186. Tel. 414-547-5531. Marschall Dairy Ingredients Div., Miles Laboratories, P.O. Box 592, Madison, WI 53701. Tel. 800-356-9393. SOURCES OF DESICCANTS, MILKFILTERS, AND NUTRIENT AGAR FOR STARTER PRODUCTION Baltimore Biological Laboratories, P.O. Box 243, Cockeysville MD 21030. Tel. 301-666-0100. A source of nutrient agar. Difco Laboratories, P.O. Box 1058-A (920 Henry), Detroit, MI 48232. Tel. 313-961-0800. A source of nutrient agar. Kalt Corp., 2036 Broadway, Santa Monica, CA 90404. Tel. 213-829-4787. Producer of dessiccants. Also available at many camera shops.

The Stearns & Foster Co., Wyoming Ave. & Williams St., Cincinnati, OH 45215. Tel. 513-948-5279. Maker of milk filter discs.

166

TEMPEH PRODUCTION

Cereal Chemistry & Cereal Foods World, 3340 Pilot Knob Rd., St. Paul, MN 55121. Dairy Industries Catalog, 777 Third Ave., New York, NY 10017.

Food Engineering,

Chilton Co., Chilton Way, Radnoor,

PA

19809.

Food Plant Ideas, 55403.

731

Hennepin

Ave., Minneapolis, MN

Food Processing, Putman Publishing Co., 430 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611. Food Product Development, Arlington Publishing Co., 2 N.

Riverside Plaza, Chicago, IL 60606. Ave., Equipment Specialist, Foodservice 5 S. Wabash Chicago, IL 60603. Or, 270 St. Paul St., Denver, CO 80206. Food Technology, 221 N. LaSalle St., Suite 2120, Chicago, IL 60601. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 1155 16th St. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036. Journal of the American Oil Chemists Society, 508 S. 6th St., Champaign, IL 61820. Journal of Food Science,

221 N. LaSalle St., Suite 2120, Chicago, IL 60601. Packaging Digest, 400 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611. Processed Prepared Food, Gorman Publishing Co., 5725 E. River Rd., Chicago, IL 69631. Soyfoods, Heath Rd., Colrain, MA 01340. Tel. 413-624-5591. Soyworld, P.O. Box 27300, St. Louis, MO 63141. Whole Foods, 2219 Marin Ave., Berkeley, CA 94707.

Appendix

f you

3 : Tempeh ShopS in the West

New York

start a tempeh shop, please be sure to notify

Rochester: Northern Soy, 30 Somerton St., 14607. Tel. 716 442-1213. (Andy Schecter)

New-Age Foods Study Center so we can include it in the next edition of this book and send you infor mation about the Soycrafters

Association

of North

North Carolina Boone: Bean Mountain Soy Dairy, 121 W. Howard St., 28607. Tel. 704-264-0890. (Jerry McKinnon)

UNITED STATES

Oregon Eugene:

California

Surata Soyfoods, 518 Olive St., 97401. Tel. 503 485-6990 (Benjamin Hills; also makes tofu.)

Los Angeles Area: Bali Foods, 4219 Alderson Ave., Unit B, Baldwin Park 91706. Tel. 213-338-7178 or 337-1682. (Mr. Henoch Khoe; a fairly large, modern producer; also makes tempeh chips and crackers). _Country Store Health Foods, 8720 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley, CA 91352. Tel. 213-768-6373. (Joan Harriman).

Pennsylvania Station: Kirpalu Yoga Retreat, Box Tel. 717-754-3051. (Chris Yorsten)

Summit

_Toko

Baru, 969A Glendora Ave., W. Covina 91790. Tel. 213-962-0317 (Rudy Kohler. An Indonesian delica

120,

17979.

Puerto Rico Foods,

San Juan: Nature

Luchetti

1354,

Condado 00907.

Tel. 809-724-2415. (Fausto Carrasquillo)

tessen) San Francisco: Calindo Co., 1485 Bayshore Blvd. 94124. Tel. 415-467-4690 (Ed Tirta) Santa Cruz: Monterey Bay Soyfoods, 335 Pennsylvania

Tennessee Summertown: The Farm Tempeh Shop, 156 Drakes Lane, 38483. Tel. 615-964-3574 (Cynthia Bates Alexander Lyon; makes tempeh primarily for the Farm community; sells tempeh starter and dehulled cracked soybeans) or

Ave., 95062. Tel. 408-423-2256. (Jeremiah Ridenour) Solano Beach: Paul Beeson Tempeh Co., 207 N. Acacia St., 92075. (Paul Beeson)

Washington

Colorado Boulder:

Vashon: Island Spring Inc., P.O. Box 747, 98070. Tel. 206 622-6448 (Luke Lukoskie)

White Wave, 3869 Walnut St., 80301. Tel. 303 443-3470 (Chris O'Riley)

CANADA

502 Main St., 60202. Tel. 312

491-1144. (Brian Schaefer)

Ontario

Ltd., R.R. Perry: Tempeh Enterprises Box LOB 1NO. Tel. 416-985-3158. (Robert Walker) Toronto: Toronto Tempeh Shop, Attn. Mr. Tjeng Giok Tan, 324 Apache Trail, Willowdale, M2H 2WS. Tel. 416

Massachusetts

Port

Greenfield: The Tempeh Works, P.O. Box 870, 01301. Tel. 413-772-0991. (Michael Cohen)

Michigan Ann Arbor: The Soy Plant, 211 E. Ann St., 48104. Tel. 313 663-0500 (Steve Fiering and Kurt Getman) Detroit: Yellow Bean Trading Co., 15309 Mack Ave., 48224. Tel. 313-343-0783. (Tim and Carol Ann Huang)

491-2328.

EUROPE AND AUSTRALIA Netherlands: There are presently least ten tempeh shops you are able these, the Netherlands. locate any please send the name and address. The largest are said dry soybeans per day. use 440 pounds (200 kg) Broek op Langedijk: Fa Dekker, Dorpstraat 225, NL Rijswijk: Boco Trading, J.A.H. Schaperlaan 45, Z.H./NL Baarn: Centraalbureau voor Schimmelcultures, Ooster

of

to

at

us

Box 216, 59865. Tel.

of

source

of

NL.

A

a

straat

1,

1,

Nebraska Palmyra: The Indonesian Tempeh Co., Route Box 146, 68418. Tel. 402-780-5934 (Mr. Gale Randall; produces variety tempeh products plus tofu and soymilk)

of

to

Rt.

1,

St.

If

Montana Ignatius: Swan Gardens, 406-745-4538.

7,

It's Natural,

Evanston:

in

Illinois

3,

America.

tempeh. starter cultures.

Australia New South Wales: Seed)

New Hampshire

&

Gilsum: Willowbrook Soyfoods, Vessel Rock Rd., 0.3448. Tel. 603-357-3762. (Viney Loveland Robt. Cook)

167

Bodhi Farm, The Channon, 2480. (John

6ppendix C : Measures, Weights & Equivalents TEMPERATURE

LENGTH (LINEAR MEASURE)

C = Celsius or Centigrade; F = Fahrenheit C = 5/9 (F–32) F = (1.8 x C) + 32 Freezing point of water = 32°F = 0°C Boiling point of water = 212°F = 100°C Body temperature = 98.6°F = 37.0°C

= 2.540 cm = 1,000 mils = 30.48 cm

1 inch

1 foot = 12 inches 1 yard

= 3 feet = 91.44 cm 1 mile = 5,280 feet = 320 rods 1 mm

1 cm = 0.3937 inches

= 39.37 inches = 3.2808 feet = 1.094 yards 1,000 m = 0.621 miles = 3,280.8 feet

1 meter

WEIGHT (MASS)

AREA (SQUARE MEASURE)

1

kiloliter = 1,000 liters = 264.18 gallons (U.S.) = 33.315 cu. ft. = 2200.6 lb. water 10 ppm = 0.01 ml/liter = 0.38 ml/gallon

1

in.

1

m

=

=

m

=

=

a

=

on

ft.

==

ft.

a

=

on

m

m

=

=

in.

m

m =

=

=

1

=

=

kg

in.

= =

it

= = = =

60

oil

168

it

kg

&

it

or

1

70.45 gm/sq. cm. 14.19 lb./sq. in.

of

=

1

of

=

=

lb./sq. in. kg/sq. cm.

of

1

of

is

of

a to

a

=

1 1

1

10 go

1

1

ft.

=

= 10 shaku = 180 cc = 0.763 cups (U.S.) = 1.903 quarts = 0.476 gallons = 1.800 liters koku = 10 to = 100 sho = 47.6 gallons = 180 liters tablespoon = 15 cc = 3 teaspoons cup = 200 cc = 0.847 U.S. cups = 13.5 U.S. tablespoons =

a

1 go (Japanese)

PRESSURE

the quantity heat required pound raise the temperature water one degree Fahrenheit (near 39.2°F) power equal watt unit the rate work represented by amp under pressure current volt. horsepower (H.P.) 746 watts 0.746 kilowatts 550 foot pounds per second

BTU (British Thermal Unit)

is

A

CAPACITY (JAPANESE) 1 sho

kiloliter

of

ENERGY, WORK

= to

8 gallons)

A

(bu) = 4 pecks (approximately 2,150.42 cu. in. = 35.2390 liters

=

ft.

=

of

of

= 67.20 cu. in. = 1.1012 liters in. = 9.309 quarts = 8.809 liters

1 peck = 537.605 cu. 1 bushel

=

=

=

= = =

=

=

of of

1 2 pints

1.308 cu. yd.

dry soybeans weighs 1.36 yields sho 3.0 lbs; about 1.75 gallons fresh soy puree (go) cup nigari weighs 195 gm; cup calcium sulfate weighs 205 gm

1

CAPACITY (U.S. DRY MEASURE) =

35.315 cu.

of

1 1 1

gallons

1

1 quart

7.48 gallons

of

0.220 imperial

0.765 cu.

Amospheric pressure 14.7 lbs./sq. 1.03 kg/sq. cm gallon (U.S.) water weighs 8.33 lbs. 3.78 cup soybeans weighs 6.5 ounces 182 grams quart soybeans weighs 1.62 lbs. 0.736 kg gallon soybeans weighs 6.47 lbs. 2.94 kg soybeans weighs yields bushel lbs. 27.24 kg; plus 47.5 lbs. (79.2%) 10.7 lbs. (17.8%) crude soy defatted soybean meal plus 1.8 lbs. (3%) manufacturing loss soybeans contains 36.75 bushels; yields metric ton 400 lbs. of oil and 1850 lbs. of meal

1

1

=

m

(U.S.) = 16 tablespoons = 8 fluid oz. = 236 ml = 2 pints = 4 cups = 32 fluid oz. = 0.946 liters gallon (U.S.) = 4 quarts = 231 cu. in. = 0.8333 imperial gallon = 3.785 liters gallon (imperial) = 1.20 gallons (U.S.) = 4.456 liters liter = 1,000 ml or cc = 1.0567 liquid quarts = 4.237 cups = 61.03 cu. in. = 33.814 fluid ounces = 0.264 gallons =

1 quart

1

0.028 cu.

NATURAL AND SOY EQUIVALENTS

1 cup 1

ft.

cu.

1

2

46,656 cu. in. cu. yd. cc 0.061 cu. in.

= 14.75 ml or cc tablespoons = 29.57 ml = 0.0296 liters =

1.8047 cu. in.

16.387 cc

1728 cu. in.

of of

1

cu.

= =

3 teaspoons

= =

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

60 drops

= fluid ounce =

cu. in.

of

=

1 tablespoon

144 sq. 929.03 sq. cm 0.0929 sq. sq. yd. 1296 sq. in. 0.836 sq. sq. mile 640 acres 2.593 sq. km 43,560 sq. acre (208.7 side) 4840 sq. yds. 4047 sq. 0.405 hectares sq. cm 0.1549 sq. in. sq. meter 1550 sq. 10.764 sq. 1.196 sq. yd. sq. km 0.3856 sq. miles 247.1 acres 100 hectares 10,000 sq. hectare (ha) (100 side) 2.471 acres

VOLUME (CUBIC MEASURE)

CAPACITY (U.S. LIQUID MEASURE) 1 teaspoon

in. = 6.452 sq. cm.

1 sq.

=

or U.S.) ton = 2,000 pounds = 0.907 tonnes or metric tons = 33.33 bushels of soybeans (used chiefly in the U.S. and Canada) 1 tonne or metric ton (MT) = 2,204.6 pounds = 1.1025 (short) tons = 36.75 bushels of soybeans 1 long ton = 2,240 pounds = 1.12 (short) tons = 1.016 tonnes or metric tons = 37.33 bushels of soybeans (used chiefly in England) 100 grams = 3.527 ounces 1 kilogram = 1,000 grams = 2.2046 pounds 1 quintal (qt) = 100 kg = 220.46 pounds 10 ppm = 0.01 gm/kg = .0045 gm/lb. 1 (short

1 sq.

=

= 453.59 grams

ft.

drams

m

16 ounces

16

1

=

=

1

= 28.3495 grams

=

1 1

437.5 grains 1 pound (avoirdupois) 0.45359 kg

1 km

1

(avoirdupois)

1 ounce

= 1.609 km

= 0.03937 inches

0.070 kg/sq. cm.

Bibliography

extensive bibliography with over 190 entries relating to aspects tempeh production, micro biology, chemistry, nutrition, history, etc. given Tempeh. the professional edition The Book The following entries taken from that bibliography are those tempeh which we consider most directly related production. Entries preceded asterisk are new; they did Tempeh. Most not appear The Book the following entries are referred the text of this book.

of

on

C.

A.

5.

J.

&

of

A.

C.

J. N.

in

to

a

on

J.

B.

in

on

J.

L.

A

D.

1.

C.

E.

of

of

L.

H.

1976.

169

C.

Industrial

E.

in

New

all H.

H.

in L.

R.

at

H.

K.

6.

B.

D.

I.

of

H.

D.

S.

4.

1967.

2.

E.

C.

8,

cereal

&

K.

of

in

of

its

of II:

of

an

1963.

Develop

food.

Sympo

and Hand, pilot plant process for the production 1965. dehydrated tempeh. Food Technology Vol. 19, No. Wang, L., Swain, W., and Hesseltine, W. 1975. Rhizopus oligosporus spores and their Mass production application tempeh fermentation. Journal Food Science Vol. 40. L., Swain, W., and Hesseltine, Wang, W. 1977. Call ing tempeh lovers. Organic Gardening and Farming, June. Instructions for making rice-based tempeh starter. B.

in

D.

of

I.

S.

the United States. Presented the International sium on Oilseed Protein Foods, Tokyo. P., Hackler, Steinkraus, K. H., Van Buren,

of

of

C.

Industrial Microbiology Vol. W., Smith, M., and Wang, C.

in

Indonesian

A.

of

D.

I.

of

W., Smith, M., Bradle, B., and Ko,

products. Developments Microbiology Vol. Chapter W., and Wang, W., Swain, Hesseltine, fermented

a

at

A. F.

P.

47

on

.

A

J., and Booth, 1963. Processing losses and nutri tempeh, tive value fermented soybean food. Cereal Science Today 8:129. process 1964. Tempeh; Nutritive value relation ing. Cereal Chemistry Vol. 41, 173. H., Yap, H., Van Buren, P., Provvidenti, Steinkraus, tempeh — An Indo M. and Hand, 1960. Studies nesian fermented food. Food Research Vol. 25, No. Steinkraus, tempeh technology 1964. Research

tempeh, Part Preparation tempeh the preparation activity during stor mold inoculum and observation age. Journal the Indonesian Nutrition Association, GIZI, Indonesia. tempeh,

P.

a

W

Bangkok,

Hermana and Soetedja. 1970. Advances the preparation tempeh. Part preparing tempeh. Journal New method GIZI, Indonesia, the Indonesian Nutrition Association, 2(3). Hermana, Roedjito, W. and Karjadi, 1973. Advances

ments Hesseltine,

D.

S.

by

of

a

H. T.

D.

P.

in

Symposium,

1976. Beatnik Tempeh Making. Summertown, photocopy manuscript. Tennessee. .1977. How we make and eat tempeh down the September-October. farm. Mother Earth News No. .1979. The Farm Vegetarian Cookbook. Revised edi tion. The Book Publishing Co. Summertown, Tennessee. *Gomez, M. and Kothary, M. 1979. Tempeh from red kidney beans. League for International Food Education Newsletter. June.

Investigations

A.

N.

of

a

I.

at

SIFF/GIAM

Farm, The

Hesseltine,

in

of

to

by

an

of

to in

of

1977.

studies. Presented November.

C., and Gould, W. 1970. Tempeh. Find preserve Indonesian soy food. Ohio Report 55:22

and Development Center, Wooster, Ohio. Horticulture Series No. 394. April. Ko, 1964. Tempeh, fermented food made from soy beans. Presented the international symposium oilseed protein foods, Tokyo. Martinelli, and Hesseltine, W. 1964. Tempeh fer mentation: Package and tray fermentations. Food Technol ogy Vol. 18, No. *Nofziger, M. 1980. The Farm's Tempeh Book. Summertown, Tennessee. The Book Publishing Company. *Noznick, and Luksas, 1970. Powdered tempeh. U.S. Patent No. 3,489,570. January 13. Shurtleff, W. and Aoyagi, Tempeh. 1979. The Book Professional edition. New York: Harper Row. Soymilk Production. Lafayette, Calif.: 1979. Tofu New-Age Foods Study Center. J., Hesseltine, W., Robbins, Smith, A. K., Rackis,

Nepalese 1976. Kenima, Industrial Microbiology 17:117. Engineering solid substrates: Tempeh

R.

L.

M.

Charles,

fer

for Oriental

Industrial Microbiology

(January-February). Iljas, 1973. Tempeh. An Indonesian Fermented Soybean Horticulture, Food. Dept. Ohio Agricultural Research

1975. Process for simulating meat. Soybean Digest 36:31. Describes sesame-soy tempeh developed James Liggett Foundation Foods, Inc. *Bahi El-Din, Magboul, and Lein, 1977. Tempeh, soybean fermented food. Sudan Journal Food Science

and Technology 9:24-26. and Millner, tempeh. Developments

to

ways

inocula

A.

of

of

is

of

all

be

to

in

in

Iljas, N., Peng,

*Anonymous,

*Batra,

as

fungal spores Production mented foods. Developments 17:101-115.

n

BASICTEXTS ON FOOD MICROBIOLOGY 1976. Introduction to the History of Mycol ogy. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. 359 pages. pages. Alexopoulos, C.J. 1962. Introductory Mycology. 2nd ed. New York: John Wiley & Sons. A highly readable textbook with an excellent glossary. Banwart, G.J. 1979. Basic Food Microbiology. Westport, CT:

Ainsworth, G. C.

AVI.

Beuchat, L. R. 1978. Food & Beverage Mycology. Westport,

CT: AVI. H. J. 1973. Microbial Applications: A Laboratory Manual in General Microbiology. Dubuque, IA: Wm. C.

Benson,

Brown Co.

Fields, Marion L. 1979. Fundamentals of Food Microbiology. Westport, CT: AVI. Figueiredo, M. P. and Splittstoesser, D. F. 1976. Food Micro biology: Public Health and Spoilage Aspects. Westport, CT: AVI. Frazier, W. C. and Westhoff, D.C. 1978. Food Microbiology, 3rd ed. New York: McGraw-Hill. Gray, W. D. 1970. The Use of Fungi as Food and in Food Processing.

Cleveland:

Chemical

Rubber Company

Guthrie, R. K. 1972. Food Sanitation. Westport, Jay, J. M. 1978. Modern Food Microbiology. D. Van Nostrand Co.

Press.

CT: AVI. New York:

C. S. 1979. Microbiology of Food Fermentations, 2nd ed. Westport, CT: AVI. Peppler, H. and Perlman, D. 1979. Microbial Technology. 2 Vols. New York: Academic Press. Perlman, D. ed. 1969 to present. Advances in Applied Micro biology. New York: Academic Press. Yearly volumes worth reviewing at the agricultural library of your local university. Stanier, R. Y. et al. 1979. Introduction to the Microbial World. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice Hall. An expanded version, The Microbial World, is also available. Webster, J. 1970. Introduction to Fungi. Cambridge: Cam bridge University Press. Weiser, H. H., Mountney, G.J. and Gould, W. A. 1971. Prac tical Food Microbiology and Technology. Westport, CT:

Pederson,

J.

AVI.

Wheelis, M. L. and Segal, W. P. 1979. Introduction Microbial World: Laboratory Manual. Englewood New Jersey: Prentice Hall.

to the

Cliffs,

170

CANYOU |MAKEA

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A history of specialization

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For over fifteen years, Agricultural Exports has been America's leading supplier of hull-free split soybeans to the food industry. We have developed our own unique method and equipment (worth over $22,000) for giving you beautiful big uncracked cotyledons free of their hulls at the most reasonable prices available. Using our hull-free splits will save you time and money: no need to buy the costly equipment required for dehulling and hull separation, nor to pay workers to do these time-consuming operations. Just cook the hull-free splits, drain, cool, inoculate, incubate, and your tempeh is ready. A simple, streamlined, low-cost operation. To bring you top quality, we start with either large seeded vegetable type soybeans (such as Prize, which make the best tempeh) or regular field beans; its your choice. We guarranty 99 percent varietal purity. We clean and size grade the beans, flash dry them to make the hulls brittle, run them through our custom-made huller-splitter that gently rubs off the hulls without cracking the cotyledons, then remove the hulls with a blower; 85 to 90 percent of the cotyledons come out perfect and unbroken. Then we sell the hulls for feed to help keep our prices low. And remember; when you buy hull-free splits you save 10 percent on the cost of shipping the hulls found on whole soybeans. Our hull-free splits will stay fresh in any weather for at least three months; try to store them in a cool, dry place. Under cold weather conditions, they will keep fresh for much longer. Since we are also a major supplier of whole regular and vegetable-type soybeans to the soyfoods industry for producers of tofu, soymilk, miso, shoyu, etc., you can conveniently order your beans from shipping.

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LAFAYETTE, CA 94549

New-flge Foods Study Center

of

Study Centers: Our centers allow people come and learn more about our work that they can begin their own work Japan, we related areas. We have good library facilities. studying traditional assist people modern soyfood production. Our centers do not presently provide residence accommodations.

of

At

to

of

a

of

of

to

to

In

in

of

on

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to

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to

Bill Shurtleff Akiko Aoyagi New-Age Foods Study Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549 USA Tel. 415-283-2991 &

of

to

of

(a

175

to

If

to

to

or

in

or

to

you would like contribute your time and energy please contact us.

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its

to

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in of or

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or

to

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Your Financial Support and Help: Our work, now reaching people throughout the world, government not supported corporate funds. We do, however, welcome contributions any size from individuals and private foundations aid furthering the soyfoods revolution and helping put end world hunger. We have established Friends The Center for supporters willing contribute $20.00 more (all tax deductible); smaller contributions are also welcomed.

establish the Soycrafters Association North international publication Soycraft, company selling tofu and found Bean Machines, Inc. soymilk equipment), and develop catalogs large and to

on

of

on

a

by

in

to

all

to of

is

to

of

is

on of

of

of

in

of

as

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deeply involved New Lifestyles: Our work the development lifestyles conducive the welfare and planet Earth. Thus we encourage survival all beings voluntary simplicity, self-sufficiency (particularly food self sufficiency personal, regional, and national levels), right livelihood, deeper understanding selfless service, and daily life and work spiritual practice, ecological awareness, wholistic health, appropriate technology, the rapid development and adoption solar energy, and the phasing out nuclear energy. Publications and Catalog: We have published three full-sized books, which are available only from our center: Soymilk Production, Miso Production, and Tempeh Tofu Production. Also available from our center are our other widely distributed tofu, miso, books and pamphlets tempeh, plus tofu kits, slide shows related soyfoods, and soycrafters list North America, Europe, and Australia. in

a

on

of

in

or

have helped

America (SANA) and

a

as

of

small scale equipment. We have compiled various technical manuals and presently serve consultants for wide variety companies. Lecture Demonstrations: We have done more than one soyfoods for natural food hundred programs relating groups, research scientists, food technologists, nutritionists, commercial producers, university audiences, international symposia, home economists, and cooking schools. typical program we discuss the causes and practical solutions for world hunger, show color slides about soyfoods, teach how prepare these foods on home, community commercial pound, and serve scale for pennies number our favorite recipes. We have also done numerous television and radio programs and cooking classes throughout the world. We welcome invitations.

of

a

is,

he New-Age Foods Study Center, founded in 1975 by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, has offices in both California and Tokyo, Japan. Our basic goals and activities are: Soyfoods: Our center above all, source information about soyfoods, especially tofu, soymilk, tempeh, and miso, about which we have done extensive research and written growing number books and recipe pamphlets. Like people, we feel that soybeans will be one the key protein planet earth, and that both traditional sources the future and modern soyfoods from East and West will serve important sources delicious, high-quality, low-cost protein people everywhere, regardless the diets their income. We are interested each the following soyfoods, listed here what we consider be their approximate order potential worldwide importance: tofu (soybean curd), soy flour, soymilk, tempeh, shoyu (natural soy sauce), textured soy protein (TVP), miso, whole dry soybeans, soy protein soy nuts, fresh isolates and concentrates, roasted soybeans green soybeans, roasted full-fat soy flour (kinako), soy sprouts, yuba, and natto. We have developed hundreds tasty and nutritious Western-style recipes for the use these foods and compiled extensive, up-to-date information their nutritional value, history, and production. World Hunger: Presently more than 15,000,000 people die diseases; each year starvation and malnutrition-caused three fourths these are children. We constantly relate our work this urgent problem world hunger by studying and developing creative, low-cost, village-level methods for soyfood production using appropriate technology, travel ing and speaking less developed countries, and by sending complementary copies our publications and communi cating with key soyfoods researchers and producers these countries. agricultural land Meatless Diets: Over half the grow crops (such corn, United States now used soybeans, oats, and wheat) that are fed animals. The emerging major cause affluent American diet world hunger degenerative diseases such well heart cost, high disease and cancer. Soyfoods, which are low protein, low cholesterol, saturated fats, free and relatively calories, low can be used delicious replacements for meats and dairy products part meatless vegetarian diets. We encourage the adoption such diets which help make best use the planet's precious food resources, are conducive healthy the development body and clear mind, kind animals, economical, and ecologically sound. Commercial Soyfood Production: We encourage and aid people throughout starting community the world soyfoods by providing technical commercial production manuals, technical advice, materials, and equipment. We

our work,

Index

Acetic acid, 66 Acidification, 74, acidulants, 65 Advertising, 18 Agar, growing tempeh starter on, 154-156, 166

26, 34, 63, 65, 83, 87, 135, 151-153,166

Modern Indonesian tempeh plant,

Fermented

Ann Arbor Biological Center, 151 Aspergillus, 76

foods, other, 13

Modern factory, 12, 54, 104

Neurospora,

Freeze-drying, 83, 146 Freezer & cooler, 52, 164

Northern

Bed of nails, 45

Freezer racks, 53 Freezing tempeh, 82, starter, 145

Bookkeeping,

18

Boilers, 163 Building, tempeh shop, 13, 20-21 Burgers, tempeh, 135 Business,

management,

18,

name, 15 permits & licenses, plan, 17

15,

Cleanup

20, 23, 84 Contaminants,

in tempeh, 81,

in tempeh starter, 147 Cookers & cooking, 23, 28, 38,74, 163 Coolers, 52, 164

Cooling table or tray, 24, 40 Cornell Univ. tempeh method, 94

Ownership, forms of, 10 Oxygen needs, tempeh, 77, starter, 145

Substrates for tempeh starter, 142, 156

Harvesting tempeh, 81 Health inspectors, 13 Hot water heater, 38

Surata Soyfoods, Packaging

and design, 14, 15, 42, 57, 75-76, 81-83, 164

Hull separators, 34-38, 164 Humidity & moisture control, 31,

28, 50-52, 76-77, 164 trays, 49 Tempeh Co., 99 Indonesian tempeh production, 105-130, starter production, Incubation

Inoculum, tempeh, see starter Insurance, 17 INTSOY, 19, 63

Indonesian

Dewatering

see drying & dewaterers,

40, 75,

163

Distribution, 14, 17 Draining, 75, container, 39 Dryer or drying, soybeans, 30,

Containers,

of tempeh, 14, 81-83, 164. See also freezing, drying Prices, tempeh, 17 Principles of tempeh production,

Industry in U.S., 9

Preservation

Quality control, 18

bulk tempeh, Refrigeration, 53, 82

133-139

Restaurant,

12, 133

soyfoods,

Retail outlet, 12

Kenima, 19

Rhizopus oligosporus,

Kitchen shop, see community shop Klebsiella, 65

Rice tempeh, 132 Rice-based starter, 149, 161

141-143

15-17 Lactic acid, 66

Sanitation,

Leaf wrappers, 55-57, 121-124;

Scoop, 42 Sealing machines, 49 Size grader & grading, 30, 70, 164 Skimmers, 23, 39

inocula 157-160 Lease, signing, 18 Legume tempehs, 132 Location area, choosing,

10, 13

tempeh, see modern

150

Temperature/time, incubation, 78-79 50-51

Tofu & Soymilk Production, 9, 17-20, 38, 68-69, 54.60

Tofu tubs, 48

Trays, incubation,

47, 58, 164

Tropical caldron plant, 12, 22, 57 Tropical village shop, 12, 21, 55 Troubleshooting, 81

Malang tempeh, 124-129 Malaysian tempeh production,

13, 68

Vitamin

B-12, 65

Wages, 17 Water, 67

White Wave Soyfoods, 104

Sloppy joe tempeh,

135 Soaking, 71, tank, 30 Soybeans, 60-62, 70, 165, 168,

147 Factory,

Enterprises, 91-94 Works, The, 95-98, 147,

Viable counts, testing, 147 Vinegar, 65-66

Sales, 18

Ladle, 39

18 Equipment, tempeh, 14-15, 20-59 Extenders & growth promoters,67,

Tempeh

Rolling racks, 49, 164 Labels,

70-71, tempeh, 53, 59, 82,

consumers,

Types of, 13, 131-132 Tempeh

133-139

Recipes,

tempeh starter, 145 Educating

Shops, types, 10-11, in West, 167

Tofu shop & tempeh shop, 10 Tofu Shop, The (Rochester),

Ragi, 161

Island Spring, 14, 101, 150 It's Natural, 25, 86

24, 42-48, 55-57,

117-124, 164

Thermostat,

31-34, 70, 72, 114-117, 163 Dehydration,

Tempeh

Polyethylene bags, 42-43 Prefermentation, 71

Product development, 18 Publications concerning tempeh, 9-10, 166, 169-170

157-162

Tamp, 49 Taxes, 18

68, 83, starter production, 141-148

Indonesian

88-91

equipment

Permits & licenses, 14 Personnel, 17

Ingredients, tempeh, 13-14, 60-67 Incubation & incubators, 24-25,

Dating tempeh, 14 Deep-frying, 83, 165, equipment, 133-134

165 Starting a tempeh shop, 9, 19 Steam cooker, 53

Grain tempehs, 132

Costs, startup, 17, tempeh, 16

Dehullers & dehulling, 23, 26,

131 77, 81 Standards, quality, 81 Starter, tempeh, 62, 111, 140-162, Sporulation,

Steam cooker plant, 12, 20, 30, 94 Storage of tempeh, see preservation

tempeh shops, 21-23 Inoculant mixers, 41-42, 164 Inoculation, 41, 75

Corona mill, 26

Program, 9, 19, 171 Assoc., 9 Soy deli, 12, 133 Soy Plant, The, 29, 100 Soycrafters

Oeben Tempeh plant, 57, 109,158 Okara tempeh, 132, starter, 156

equipment,

Community

starter, 148

Apprenticeship

Glove box & hood, 144-145

Hydraulic press, 40

54, 68 & kitchen shop, 11,

15

tempeh method, 106

78

Canning tempeh, 83 Centrifuge, 40, 96,102

14, product,

76 Soy, 28, 99, 133 Nutrition Research & Dev. Inst.

Book of Tempeh, 9, 18, 68,76, 84, 124,131-139

Soycrafters

Specialty tempehs, Names, business,

Fire cooker shop, 11, 20, 26, 88

42-46, 55 55-56, 121

10

58, 130

Filling machine, 42, 164 Financial projections, 17 Financing, 18

Banana leaf wrappers, 124

Bags, incubation,

Soybean-based

Marketing, 18 Market potential, determining, Mixer, 24, 41-42

factory

Farm Foods or The Farm, 19, 25,

130

176

171-174

Yellow Bean Trading Co., 29,84 Yields & losses, tempeh, 16, 80 Ziploc bags, 44

start your

own

TEMPEH, PLANT Tempeh is a delicious, high-protein cultured soyfood with a flavor and texture re markably like that of southern fried chicken. A natural, meatless backbone of the B-12, tempeh is Indonesian diet for centuries and an important source of vitamin Tempeh has been pro prepared each morning at some 41,000 shops in Java alone. shops has begun duced in North America since 1962 and since 1975 the number of soymilk. There is to increase rapidly; many of these shops also produce tofu and countries, production where the in Third World also a growing interest in tempeh high-quality pro climate is ideal and there is a great need for sources of low-cost, tein made with village-level technology. pro After more than five years of research, including field studies with tempeh ducers throughout Indonesia and North America, William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, authors of The Book of Tempeh, now present. . .

TEMPEH PRODUCTION your beautiful new craft and technical manual describing how to start and run factory own tempeh planton any of four scales, from a community shop to a modern in the West, and in less developed tropical countries as a village shop or a large scale caldron plant. * ©Over 285 informative illustrations; many charts and tables; 176 pages. OHow to make Tempeh Burgers,

ºA

*

Tempeh Lettuce & Tomato Sand wiches, Sloppy Joe Tempeh, and many other delicious preparations for a soy deli or restaurant.

OAddresses of resource people and

institutions plus a lengthy Biblio graphy and Index. © A guidebook to a new craft and new source of right livelihood.

Tempting Tempeh in Pita Bread Sandwiches

ISBN 0-933332-02-5 (P) 0-033332-04-1 (C)