Jerusalem Chronicles From the Holy City 0987654321, 9780224096690

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JERUSALEM CHRONICLES FROM THE HOLY CITY

GUY DELISLE

w |_| University of

abeChester LIS Library Chester 01244 511234 Warrington 01925 534284

Riverside 01244 512345 lis. helpdesk @ chester.ac.uk

Accession

no.

20173576

Up'

“ily

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation -

httos://archive.org/details/jerusalemchronicO00Odeli_cOf1

JERUSALEM CHRONICLES FROM THE HOLY CITY

THANK YOU MICHAEL, LOUISE, ISAAC, ASAF, IMRi, BRIGITTE, LEWIS, JUL, HUBERT, CECILE, NICOLA\, CHARLOTTE, AMER, ATTAR, SEBASTIEN AND NADEGE. TRANSLATED BY HELGE DASCHER. WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO DAG DASCHER AND MARK LANG. ALSO BY GUY DELISLE: BURMA CHRONICLES PYONGYANG: A JOURNEY iN NORTH KOREA SHENZHEN: A TRAVELOGUE FROM CHINA ALBERT & THE OTHERS ALINE & THE OTHERS

WWW.G6UYDELISLE.COM

THIS EDITION PUBLISHED BY JONATHAN CAPE 2012 0987654321 COPYRIGHT © GUY DELISLE 2012 TRANSLATION © HELGE DASCHER 2012

GUY DELISLE HAS ASSERTED HIS RIGHT UNDER THE COPYRIGHT, DESIGNS AND PATENTS ACT, (988 TO BE IDENTIFIED AS THE AUTHOR OF THIS WORK ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED iN FRENCH BY EDITIONS DELCOURT THIS BOOK 1S SOLD SUBJECT TO THE CONDITION THAT iT SHALL NOT, BY WAY OF TRADE OR OTHERWISE, BE LENT, RESOLD, HIRED OUT, OR OTHERWISE CIRCULATED WITHOUT THE PUBLISHER'S PRIOR CONSENT IN ANY FORM OF BINDING OR COVER OTHER THAN THAT \N WHICH IT \S PUBLISHED AND WITHOUT A SIMILAR CONDITION, INCLUDING THIS CONDITION,

BEING IMPOSED ON THE SUBSEQUENT PURCHASER FIRST ENGLISH-LANGUAGE EDITION PUBLISHED BY DRAWN & QUARTERLY IN CANADA FIRST PUBLISHED in GREAT BRITAIN in 2012 BY JONATHAN CAPE RANDOM HOUSE, 20 VAUXHALL BRIDGE ROAD, LONDON SWIV 254

WWW.CAPEGRAPHICNOVELS.CO.UK ADDRESSES FOR COMPANIES WITHIN THE RANDOM HOUSE GROUP LIMITED CAN BE FOUND AT: WWW.RANDOMHOUSE.CO.UK/OFFICES.ATM

THE RANDOM HOUSE GROUP LIMITED REG. NO. 954009 A CIP CATALOGUE RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE BRITISH LIBRARY ISBN 9780224096690 PRINTED AND BOUND IN CHINA

i

JERUSALEM CHRONICLES FROM THE HOLY CITY GUY

DELISLE

COLOURED BY LUCIE FIROUD & GUY DELISLE TRANSLATED BY HELGE DASCHER

LIS LIBRARY Po 542599.

be ‘a

tatt ersity OF£ Chaciar aCy Unesiel SeSA

JONATHAN CAPE LONDON

SS

ATT

AUGUST

OH BOY!

A BiG AND VERY PATIENT GUY NEXT TO ME TAKES ALICE INTO HiS ARMS TO CALM HER DOWN.

WELL, YOU SURE

\Try TO STRIKE UP A CONVERSATION, BUT HE

HAVE A WAY WITH KiDS. THANKS.

DOESN'T SPEAK A WORD OF ENGLISH OR FRENCH.

A

NO, NO, YOU CAN KEEP HER.

WHEN HE LIFTS UP ALICE, I'M FLOORED BY WHAT \ SEE: A SERIES OF NUMBERS TATTOOED ON HiS FOREARM. ee

WE'VE SEEN SO MANY HORRIFIC IMAGES FROM THAT TIME in HISTORY THAT MY IMAGINATION JUST TAKES OFF.

BUT I'M TREATED TO A WHOLE OTHER PICTURE TONIGHT, AS THIS OLD RUSSIAN PLAYS WITH MY DAUGHTER THOUSANDS OF FEET UP iN THE Sky.

G00D GOD! THIS GUY 1S A CAMP SURVIVOR. :

A FEW STOPOVERS LATER, WE ARRIVE iN ISRAEL ON A NIGHT FLIGHT.

A EL COME : :

A YEAR HERE WILL BE A NICE CHANGE FROM OUR USUAL THIRD-WwORLD DESTINATIONS.

A DRIVER FROM MY PARTNER'S NGO iS WAITING FOR US.

HMM... COME TO THINK OF \T,

HE MUST BE ARAB.

SALAMALEKUM! WA

ALAIKUM ASSALAM,

| WONDER WHAT OUR NEW “HOME” WILL BE LIKE. WHEN YOU DON'T HAVE A DECENT PLACE, A YEAR CAN SEEM LIKE FOREVER.

i'M USED TO iT, BUT IT'S A CRAPSHOOT EVERY TIME, AND THAT'S NOT MUCH COMFORT.

AH, WE'VE STOPPED. THIS MUST BE IT.

DAMN, LOOKS LIKE (T'S AN APARTMENT.

OK, THIS ROOM WiLL BE FOR THE KIDS.

WE'LL DEAL WITH THE REST TOMORROW.

ALRIGHT, HERE WE 60 AGAIN!

FIRST NIGHT in JERUSALEM,

WHAT FORMAT? COOL... \T PLAYS Divx.

THE KIDS wiLl BE ABLE TO WATCH

"PERPA Pig."

=

AND EVEN A

DVD PLAYER.

LOOKS LIKE MANY PEOPLE

WAVE COME THROUGH HERE...

SPANIARDS, BRITS, ITALIANS.. .

EARLY WORKS, POETRY...

THERE'S AT LEAST FIVE BOOKS

BY VICTOR HUGO. PROBABLY SOME HOPELESS ROMANTIC. NGOS GET LOTS OF THEM. A YOUNG

DOCTOR, | BET...

LOTS OF

BOOKS.

SHELVES WiTHOUT

BORDERS.

YOU ALWAYS FIND TRACES OF PREVIOUS

OCCUPANTS. BITS OF LIVES LEFT BEHIND. WE'LL PROBABLY LEAVE A FEW OURSELVES.

HUGE CD PLAYER WiTH MEGA BASS BOOST

MUST'VE

BEEN SOME CRAZY PARTIES

SOOR PLOOMS - TRADITIONAL SCOTTISH CANDIES.

)7

PAINT AND

Tue poems

PRINTBRUSHES

OF ROBERT

A SCOT?

AW! AN

ARTIST...

KNEW (T!

| FIND TWO PAINTINGS HIDDEN BEHIND A CURTAIN.

THERE'S A DEDICATION ON THE BACK. ;

FOR

JIM, FROM] JERUSALEM WiTH LOVE, ALBERT."

HUH, NOT HALF BAD!

CONSIDERING WHERE |

FOUND iT, | GET THE FEELING JIM WASN'T CRAZY ABOUT

ALBERT'S FORAYS INTO

agsTRACTi es

THEY

LEFT A FEW THINGS iN THE FRIDGE. NICE.

BEIT HANINA k

*

(HOUSE OF HANINA)

WE'RE NOT GOING TO

STARVE.

\3

NONEXISTENT SIDEWALKS, CRATERED ROADS, RANDOM PARKING, STIFLING HEAT.

the

1 DON'T KNOW, BUT | FEEL LIKE \'VE SEEN ALL THIS BEFORE.

\THOUGHT

\T SURE DIDN'T LOOK ANYTHING Like

JERUSALEM WOULD BE MUCH MORE

THIS IN THE TRAVEL GUIDES.

MODERN.

OK, WELL, | DIDN'T FiND A GROCERY STORE AND | DiDN'T SEE ANY PLAYGROUNDS EITHER.

THE NEXT DAY, SOMEBODY FROM MSF* STOPS BY.

THIS |S THE "EAST" PART OF

JERUSALEM. IT'S AN ARAB VILLAGE

JERUSALEM OLD ciTy ¢

s

>

THAT WAS ANNEXED FOLLOWING

7) ANNEXED

THE SIX-DAY WAR in ‘67.

@ since 903

¥,

SO WE'RE in

Be neo

MSF (MEDECINS SANS FRONTIERES): DOCTORS WITHOUT BORDERS

ACCORDING TO THE ISRAELI GOVERNMENT, WE'RE DEFINITELY in ISRAEL, BUT FOR THE INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY, WHICH DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THE 1967 BORDERS, WE'RE IN THE WEST BANK, WHICH

SHOULD BECOME PALESTINE (\F THAT

DAY EVER COMES).

BUT JERUSALEM

\S THE CAPITAL OF ISRAEL, RIGHT?

AGAIN, 1T DEPENDS: FOR THE INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY, IT'S TEL AVIV. THAT'S WHERE THE EMBASSIES ARE. BUT FOR ISRAEL, IT'S

JERUSALEM. THE PARLIAMENT, OR "KNESSET," \S HERE, NOT IN TEL AVIV.

1DON'T REALLY GET iT, BUT|TELL MYSELF 'VE GOT A WHOLE YEAR TO FIGURE iT OUT...

V HITCH A LIFT WITH AN MSF CAR TO BUY GROCERIES.

FRIDAY, SATURDAY OR SUNDAY

THAT'S THE CHRISTIAN-RUN STORE. IT'S CLOSED SUNDAYS, BUT IT'S THE

ONLY PLACE iN BEIT HANINA THAT

THIS PLACE iS MUSLIM. IT's

CLOSED FRIDAYS. YOU'LL NEVER FIND ALCOHOL HERE.

SELLS BEER AND WINE.

« BUT DO ge |THEY HAVE ~_|

THERE'S ALSO A Bié SHOPPING CENTRE OVER THERE. IT'S in A SETTLEMENT THOUGH, SO WE TRY TO AVOID IT. OF COURSE, THEY CLOSE FOR THE SABBATH (SATURDAYS), BUT THEY DO SELL ALCOHOL.

DiArERS?

TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT AFTER

THAT ROAD?

THE SPANISH SECTION OF MSF iS ONE FLOOR DOWN.

MEDICOS SIN FRONTERAS

=

\ BUMP INTO THEM AND we

STOP BY FOR COFFEE.

Sn

:

tack

a

Ser

Tw0 ARE PSYCHOLOGISTS WHO

WORK IN HEBRON, THEY'RE in

JERUSALEM THIS WEEKEND FOR

FROM THE SOUNDS OF iT,

HEBRON iS NO PICNIC.

A CHANGE OF SCENERY.

IT'S VERY RELIGI0Us, MEANING STRICTLY OBSERVANT.

FOR EXAMPLE, THERE'S ONLY ONE POOL IN TOWN THAT LETS iN WOMEN,

GENERAL PANIC.

|

A

|

THEN WHEN HE LEAVES, IT's

BACK TO BIKINIS.

iy MM... \'D LIKE TO SEE THAT.

IN PASSING, THEY TELL US HOW TO GET TO THE OLD CITY.

AGAIN, IT'S COMPLICATED. JERUSALEM HAS TWO PARALLEL TRANSPORTATION SYSTEMS.

THERE ARE THE ISRAELI BUSES THAT 60

AND THE ARAB MINIVANS THAT OPERATE

EVERYWHERE EXCEPT THE ARAB QUARTERS.

NOWHERE BUT THE ARAB QUARTERS.

THE OLD CITY \S VERY BEAUTIFUL, BUT IT's WELL WITH A STROLLER.

WE TURN BACK aT WHAT LOOKS LIKE A CHECKPOINT. (LATER, | WOULD FIND OUT THAT \T's A PASSAGE TO THE

WE STOR FOR A MinT LEMONADE. THE FEEL OF THE PLACE (S SOMETHING ELSE.

WAILING WALL.) 1DON'T HAVE

MY PASSPORT. F

TO THE LEFT, POLICE AND SOLDIERS ARE FILLING OUT A

IN THE MEANTIME, A LINE OF TOURISTS CLEARS A PATH

REPORT. PEOPLE CLAMOUR

THROUGH THE TABLES TO

AROUND WITH THEIR VERSION OF EVENTS.

REACH AN ATM.

AND OPPOSITE, A GROUP OF ITALIANS STOP TO PRAY iN

FRONT OF A SMALL CHAPEL.

WEY! THESE PAVING

THEY CROSS THEMSELVES AND LEAVE iN SILENCE.

STONES DATE BACK TO THE FIRST CENTURY!

THAT'S AMAZING...

JESUS COULD'VE WALKED | ON THESE.

UL...

AND

\NVE HIT A

MaTTHEW

THERE'S A FEW WHO GOT LESS

COVERAGE. ut

a4

7 \'M MISSING

ACTUALLY, HOW MANY WERE

THEY iN ALL,

THE TWELVE APOSTLES?

OH... CAN | RUT THAT ANOTHER WAY?

20

A WEEK LATER, NADEGE HAS STARTED HER JOB AT MSF AND THE KIDS ARE SIGNED Of AT A LOCAL DAYCARE.

IT's NOT PERFECT, BUT WE'LL LOOK AT OUR OPTIONS in SEPTEMBER.

USE MY NEW FREEDOM TO VISIT WEST JERUSALEM, WHICH WE HAVEN'T SEEN YET.

YOU HAVE THEM WATCH TV IN THE MORNING?

THE GREAT THING ABOUT THE ARAB MINIBUSES \S THEY STOP ANYWHERE, ANYTIME,

23

BUT AFTER A STOP IN THE OLD CITY, | MANAGE TO GET LOST ANYWAY.

BY THE LOOKS OF iT,

THIS SHOULD BE EASY.

FIRST IN THE CHRISTIAN QUARTER. oe ona

ABSOLU-

TELY NOL

SENSE OF DE RECTION.

EXCUSE ME, SiR, DO YOU KNOW

WHERE THE AUSTRIAN HOSPICE (S?

SORRY, YOU

AR

60T

THE

WRONG 60UY...

24

\ FINALLY MAKE iT TO WEST JERUSALEM. —

OH, WOw! A PARK A WITH A PLAYGROUND.

EXCITED, | TAKE THE WHOLE FAMILY THE NEXT DAY.

f youl

LOVE IT!

AND GARBAGE CANS THAT AREN'T OVERFLOWING.

BUT WE'RE OUT OF LUCK. | FORGOT THAT THE CITY iS A GHOST TOWN ON THE SABBATH (SATURDAY). IT REMINDS ME OF SUNDAYS \N PYONGYANG.

|SWEAR, YESTERDAY \T waS

PACKED.

THERE WAS A

TRAFFIC JAM RIGHT HERE.

28

|TRY TO GET BACK TO WORK, BUT i CAN'T CONCENTRATE.

AROUND THE CORNER

EVERY APARTMENT HaS iTS

OWN WATER TANK ON THE ROOF,

WITH THE OWNER'S NAME ON iT. THEY'RE BLACK AND HOOKED UP

YIKES! TIME 10 60 PICK UP THE

TO SOLAR PANELS, WHICH | GUESS

KEEP THE WATER WARM. WE'LL FIND OUT THIS WINTER.

Kids. _ WHOA, ) HAVEN'T SKETCHED \N AGES.

26

SCHOOL ENDS AT 1:00 RM. |WONDER HOW OTHER FAMILIES MANAGE TO RICK UP THEIR KIDS THis EARLY...

oe

ss:

THE TV'S ON ALL AFTERNOON TOO?

D'YOU KNOW TOM & JERRY, DAD?

e :

C'MON, ALICE, HURRY UP A BIT, IT'S ALMOST

40° C, WE'RE GONNA

GET HEAT STROKE.

PROPERTY OWNERS HAVE IT 600D

\N THIS RUNDOWN NEIGHBOURHOOD.

24

BECAUSE MOST EXPATS PREFER TO LIVE iN THE "PALESTINIAN" PART OF TOWN, RENT HERE iS SKY HIGH.

FEVROPEAN C! OPERATION

AND SO YOU GET THIS STRANGE Mix OF PALATIAL HOMES SET iN THE MIDST OF GARBAGE AND DEBRIS.

TOM AND JERRY, YES, NICELY ANIMATED, ESPECIALLY

THE ONES FROM THE EARLY ‘SOs.

GOLDEN AGE OF CLASSIC ANIMATION.

NOTHING LiKE 'EM ANYMORE.

28

FOR THE PAST FEW DAYS NADEGE HAS BEEN

\N GAZA, WHERE MSF FRANCE HAS OPENED A POST-OPERATIVE, PEDIATRIC AND MENTAL-

HEALTH CLINIC.

JERUSALEM

SHE'S DUE BACK TONIGHT. HEY THERE

Ow'S iT GOING?

OCKETS A SERIES OF ROCK

WERE LAUNCHED FROM

ome =

GAZA TODAY. NO CASUALTIES HAVE BEEN REPORTED.

YOU'RE STILL \N GAZA!

SO NOw YOU'RE

YES, | JUST

stUCK THERE. THEY'VE CLOSED THE BORDER CROSSING.

HEARD ABOUT \T ON THE NEWS. COOL.

YOU SAW THE

ROCKETS?

29

CAN'T YOU JUST

60 AND CROSS SOMEWHERE ELSE?

THERE'S ONLY ONE

CROSSING INTO ISRAEL.

HOW LONG 1S iT CLOSED FOR? NOBODY KNOWS!

SO HOW DO GAZANS LEAVE THE STRIP?

THEY NEVER

LEAVE? = J

|

:

el

.

ARE YOU SUST ey ME We $0 Y N STAY

AND PARTY aN

EXTRA NIGHT IN GAZA?

THEY DON'T

PARTY MUCK THERE.

30

iN THE OLD PART OF EAST JERUSALEM, | STOP TO EAT A MIDDLE EASTERN

SPECIALITY. FRc

LIKE MANY OF THE OLDER

PEOPLE AROUND HERE, HE

SPEAKS FRENCH. HE PROBABLY WENT TO A FRENCH CATHOLIC

nee

FOR NOW, \'M TAKING CARE

OF MY KIDS. MY GIRLERIEND

AND WHAT ARE

YOU DOING in THis PART OF TOWN?

SCHOOL.

1

A.

WORKS FOR DOCTORS WITHOUT BORDERS.

THERE'LL ALWAYS BE BORDERS.

3\

THE 0.C.H.A. (S ONE OF MANY U.N. ENTITIES OPERATING iN JERUSALEM. I'M NOT ENTIRELY SURE WHAT iT DOES, BUT ITS NAME APPEARS ON MANY MAPS OF THE REGION.

THEY PROVIDE STATISTICS ON CHECKPOINTS,

YOU SEE THE MARS POSTED in ALL

TO THE WALL, AND MORE.

WITH THE PALESTINIANS.

ROADBLOCKS, OCCUPIED AREAS, EXTENSIONS

OFFICES THAT ARE IN ANY WAY INVOLVED

SEVENTY CHECKPOINTS iN SUCK A SMALL TERRITORY

BUT THE 0.C.H.A. (S ALSO KNOWN FOR iTS MONTHLY PARTIES. WORD USUALLY GETS OUT ON THE DAY \TSELF AND SPREADS LIKE wiLDFIRE. \ HEARD. ARE YOU

THE O.C.WA. \S TODAY.

CROSSINGS!

32

THE FAMOUS GREEN LINE WAS PENCILED ON A THE 0.C.1.A. OFFICE \S ON THE GREEN LINE.

MAP aT THE END OF THE FIRST ISRAELI-ARAB

WAR (IN 1948) BY GENERALS FROM BOTH

SIDES, DIVIDING THE TERRITORY BETWEEN

THE NEW ISRAELI NATION AND A FUTURE PALESTINE.

THIS ARMISTICE LINE iS STILL AT ISSUE IN PEACE AGREEMENTS TODAY, OR AT LEAST, IT'S A BASIS FOR NEGOTIATION.

THIS MUST BE iT, JUDGING BY THE MUSIC.

ae

THE MUSIC AND THE U.N. CARS,

SO HOW COME I'VE THERE'S AT LEAST 300 EXPATS HERE,

NEVER SEEN A SINGLE

MANY OF WHOM Live IN MY NEIGHBOURHOOD.

ONE OUT WALKING OR TAKING A BUS?

33

\ TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE RELATIVE COOL OF

THE EVENING TO GET SOME FRESH AIR WITH THE KIDS. )

A RARE SIGHT CATCHES MY EYE: ANOTHER

THEY'RE DANISH. IS WIFE WORKS FOR THE

EXPAT ON A STROLL WITH

\.C.R.C. THEY'VE SUST MOVED in UP THE

WIS SON,

STREET.

IT's NOT MUCH OF A NEIGHBOURHOOD, 1S \T? THIS

ASN'T ANYTHING LIKE| \MAGINED JERUSALEM.

THERE'S

TRASH

EVERYWHERE!

34

SEPTEMBER

RAMADAN STARTED A FEW DAYS AGO, AND THE LOCAL HOUSES ARE ALL DECKED OUT WITH LiGHTS.

RAMADAN

THE THEMES LOOK BORROWED FROM ANOTHER HOLIDAY.

RAMADAN AT THE PAPER SHOP.

RAMADAN AT THE MARKET.

RAMADAN IN THE STREET.

34

QALANDIYA

THIS MORNING, |GOT UP EARLY TO BE PICKED UP BY TWO

| GETTING GROCERIES THE OTHER DAY, WE NOTICED A ELDERLY LADIES FROM TEL Aviv. | GROUP OF EUROPEANS AT THE CAFE NEXT DOOR.

|

HEY, WANT TO

60 SAY HELLO? |NOT REALLY. WE DON'T

ea

\ WONDER WHAT

THEY'RE DOING

\

Rantodl TOURISTS iN BEIT HANINA,

THEY WERE AUSTRIAN, BACK

FROM A DAY SPENT WITH AN ISRAELI WOMEN'S GROUP CALLED MACHSOM WaTCH, OR CHECKPOINT WATCH. | SPOKE WITH ONE OF THE ORGANIZERS, AND SHE (NvITED ME TO COME ALONG THE FOLLOWING WEEK.

OW, UH...

SURE, WHY NOT.

38

EVEN KNOW

)

TODAY, WE'LL 60 HAVE A LOOK AT THE QALANDIYA CHECKPOINT. SINCE RAMADAN AND MANY MUSLIMS TO PRAY AT THE GREAT MOSQUE JERUSALEM ON FRIDAYS, THERE BE TROUBLE.

\HADN'T SEEN THE SEPARATION WALL YET.

IT'S WANT iN COULD

1DIDN'T THINK iT WOULD BE SO HIGH.

THEY LOAN ME A VEST WITH THE ORGANIZATION'S LOGO.

WE'LL LEAVE THE CAR HERE, EVEN if \T's A BIT FAR. YOU NEVER KNOW. WE'LL WALK THE REST OF

$0, DO YOU DO THIS OFTEN? WE COME Tw0 OR THREE TIMES

& WEEK.

39

WE COME, WE OBSERVE

AND WE WRITE A REPORT THAT WE POST ON OUR WEBSITE.

WE Do iT TO BEAR

AT MACHSOM WATCH, WE'RE

= WITNESS TO THE WAY THAT = AGAINST THE SYSTEMATIC _ WE ISRAELIS TREAT THE OPPRESSION OF THE PALES TINPALESTINIAN PEOPLE.

(AN PEOPLE. WE'RE CALLING FOR

THEIR FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT IN THEIR OWN LAND AND AN END TO THE OCCUPATION, WHICH is

DESTROYING PALESTINIAN

SOCIETY AND DAMAGING

OUR OWN.

JUST OUTSIDE THE ENTRANCE TO THE CHECKPOINT, WE MEET SOMEONE FROM A RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATION WHO IS ALSO HERE MONITORING.

60T YOUR PASSPORT?

IT'S 0K NOw. iT G0T TENSE THIS MORNING @*

BUT THINGS HAVE CALMED DOWN,

:

’ NES, OF COURSE. THE PEDESTRIAN LANE iS PRACTICALLY EMPTY.

WE PASS THROUGH WITHOUT BEING CHECKED,

FOR BETTER CROWD CONTROL,

TROOPS HAVE SET UP BARRIERS

AHEAD OF THE CHECKPOINT. THAT'S WHERE THE INSPECTIONS ARE BEING CARRIED OUT THIS MORNING.

40

THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE, AND MORE THAN ENOUGH SECURITY TO 60 AROUND.

THE BORDER PATROL IS IN BLACK, THE ARMY'S iN GREEN AND THE ONES

WEARING BERETS ARE SPECIAL FORCES.

NGS REALLY ARE QUITE CALM. PEOPLE ARE eR Tae 'M nee as

ON THE OTHER SIDE, THE CROWD PUSHES UP AGAINST THE BARRIER. WOMEN TO THE LEFT,

DISAPPOINTED.

MEN TO THE RIGHT. A MERE TRICKLE PASSES

ACCESS iS RESTRICTED TO ;

FRIDAY PRAYERS START IN

PERMITS

DON'T GET THROUGH SOON WON'T

REM

AE te

LESS THAN AN HOUR. THOSE WHO

PWV.

HAVE TIME TO CATCH THE BUS

(Ga Ze,—i«*dT*O THE AL AQSA MOSQUE.

A\

THERE'S ALSO A RACK OF

JOURNALISTS WHO CROSS

AL JAZEERA iS HERE, AND

LOCAL TV STATIONS AS WELL.

THERE ARE PROFESSIONAL

PHOTOGRAPHERS...

BACK AND FORTH WITHOUT BEING HASSLED.

AND TWO CUTE YOUNG WOMEN WHO LOOK LIKE THEY'RE FRESH OUT OF JOURNALISM SCHOOL.

EVERYBODY 1S PHOTOGRAPHING EVERYBODY.

EVEN THE SOLDIERS HAVE

CAMERAS AND STRIKE POSES,

YOU'D THINK IT'S THE EVFFEL

TOWER OR THE GREAT PYRAMIDS. OK, SiNCE

\'M HERE...

AE

|PASS BY SOME U.N. OBSERVERS. APPARENTLY \T'S CUSTOMARY FOR OBSERVERS TO GREET EACH OTHER.

NOT QUITE KNOWING WHAT TO EXPECT, | FIND MYSELF A COMFORTABLE SPOT WITH A viEW.

|HAVE TO GIVE iT TO THE OBSERVERS FOR COMING OUT TO THESE ROUGH PLACES JUST To MONITOR WHAT'S GOING ON AND SPREAD THE WORD TO ANYONE WHO'LL LISTEN.

FROM TIME TO TIME, THERE'S PUSHING BEHIND THE CHECKPOINT, AND THE SOLDIERS MAKE EVERYBODY BACK Uf TO CALM THINGS DOWN.

THE PRETTY PHOTOGRAPHERS | THE GUY WITH THE KEVLAR ACTUALLY, i'M HOT TOO. SEEM TO HAVE FOUND SOME | HELMET HAS CLIMBED ONTOA | iT MUST BE ABOUT I-00 AM. SOLDIERS THAT THEY Like. CEMENT BLOCK. HE LOOKS LIKE | TUE SUN is REALLY BEATING HE'S HOT UNDER THERE.

43

DOWN NOW AND TIME is STARTING TO DRAS.

HOPING To FIND SOME SHADE, 1 PASS THROUGH THE CHECK-

POINT To THE OTHER SIDE.

SOMEONE TRIES TO SELL ME PERFUME.

iBUY PICKLES MARINATING

iN A Bi6 OLD PLASTIC COKE BOTTLE.

| WALK UP THE ROAD LEADING TO RAMALLAH. ON THIS SIDE, GRAFFITI COVERS THE WALLS. SOME OF iT iS FUNNY, SOME iS MOVING.

1 CROSS BACK TO THE OTHER SIDE, STEPPING AROUND CONCERTINA WIRE AND WADING

THERE'S NO GETTING OUT OF THE SUN. \'M STARTING TO ROAST.

THROUGH PILES OF TRASH.

OK, MAYBE we COULD GET GOING NOW? SEEMS LIKE WE'VE SEEN

WHAT THERE iS TO SEE.

44

SUDDENLY, A WOMAN IN THE LINE CRIES OUT.

THERE'S A MOMENT OF

AND SMOKE BILLOWS UP OUT OF THE CROWD.

TEAR GAS

IN THE TIME iT TAKES ME TO GRAS? THE SITUATION, EVERYONE ELSE HAS TAKEN

GRENADES TO SCATTER

COVER.

"4

‘x

ae

a ; :

| 4

THE SOLDIERS ARE CLUSTERED BEHIND A

A DOZEN FEET AWAY, STONES HIT THE

CONCRETE WALL.

GROUND. SOME ROLL OVER TO ME.

q

45

GIVEN THEIR SIZE, |SHOULD PROBABLY AVOID GETTING BEANED BY ONE.

ANOTHER VOLLEY OF STONES.

IT'S TOTALLY OBVIOUS NOW THAT THEY'RE AIMiNG AT THE SOLDIERS.

YOU WOULDN'T THINK SO, BUT THE PICKLE BOTTLE WEIGHS A TON. | PUT ON A SHOW FOR AN AUDIENCE OF JOURNALISTS, STRUGGLING TO KEEP MY BALANCE AND THE BIT OF DIGNITY | HAVE LEFT.

FUCK Me!

DRENCHED IN SWEAT, |MAKE \T TO SAFETY

WHERE ARE THE STONES COMING

FROM? HARD TO SAY. FROM

BEHIND THE BUSES, MAYBE.

— | CAN IMAGINE THE POTENTIAL

FOR INJURY, BUT IT's STULL SURPRISING TO SEE THESE

HIGHLY EQUIPPED SOLDIERS

HIDING FROM A FEW PEBBLES.

46

THE SECOND "WAR OF STONES," OR INTiFADA, ENDED in 2006, BUT THIS MORNING

THE SHOWER OF STONES HAS STOPPED. THE SOLDIERS LAUNCH A COUNTER-OFFENSIVE. NOT

'M BEING GIVEN A LITTLE TASTE OF WHAT

ONE OF THEM 1S OLDER THAN TWENTY.

\T MIGHT HAVE BEEN LiKE.

EVERYONE'S WAITING TO SEE WHAT THEY'LL DO. WILL THEY

MEANWHILE, THE CHECKPOINT HAS CLOSED. THERE'S NO GETTING THROUGH.

THE JOURNALISTS HAVE

BEHIND THE BUSES, | SEE A GARBAGE TRUCK MARKED WITH A U.N. L060.

MOVE OUT INTO THE OPEN OR TURN BACK?

THE TEAR GAS SMOKE DRIFTS TO OUR SIDE. MY EYES STINE.

DEPLOYED TOO. THERE'S EVEN ONE AHEAD OF THE SOLDIERS.

SINCE WHEN DOES

THE U.N. COLLECT PALESTINIAN

GARBAGE?

47

A WOMAN GETS IMPATIENT AND ADVANCES, VISA iN HAND.

THE SOLDIERS SIGNAL FOR HER TO MOVE BACK. SHE GIVES THEM

SINCE SHE'S VEILED FROM HEAD TO FOOT, HER VOICE is CLEARLY AUDIBLE BUT ALL YOU SEE (S A SLIGHT MOVEMENT OF FABRIC OVER HER MOUTH.

AN EARFUL.

AND, TO TOP OFF THE SURREAL SCENE, THERE'S A VENDOR WEAVING HIS WAY THROUGH THE CHAOS, HAWKING SESAME BREAD AT THE TOP OF HIS LUNGS.

AFTER MORE HESITATION, THE SOLDIERS DROP THEIR OFFENSIVE AND RETURN TO THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS.

THE CHECKPOINT REOPENS, BUT HALF THE PEOPLE WAVE LEFT. IT'S TOO LATE NOW TO GET To JERUSALEM IN TIME FOR PRAYERS.

Tr

1 ok

rc

48

AN INJURY IS BEING TREATED in AN

A DOZEN MEN PREPARE TO PRAY RIGHT

AMBULANCE PARKED NEARBY.

THERE, IN THE RUBBLE.

WE WAS HiT

BY A TEARGAS

GRENADE THAT RICOCHETED.

WHAT A

SAD SIGHT.

SWEAR, \T'S NOTHING TO BE PROUD OF.

49

WE'VE FINALLY TAKEN THE KiDS OUT OF THE DAY CARE. LOUIS IS GOING TO AN ANGLICAN SCHOOL.

THE LOGISTICS OF EVERYDAY LIFE

AND ALICE TO A LOCAL CHRISTIAN KINDERGARTEN

SCHOOLS FILLED MOSTLY WiTH THE CHILDREN OF EXPATS.

IT'sNOCAKEWALK,

TRAFFIC TO HiS SCHOOL iN

LOGISTICALLY SPEAKING.

WEST JERUSALEM.

6:30

WAKE-UP FOR LOVis

50

BACK TO BEIT HANNA FOR

ALICE, WHO STARTS LATER.

THAT GIVES ME A FEW HOURS EVERY MORNING FOR MY NEW PROJECT.

LOVIS ENDS AT 2:30 RM, WiTH

SATURDAY-SUNDAY WEEKENDS (JEWISH + CHRISTIAN).

NADEGE WORKS ALL DAY wiTH (MUSLIM + JEWISH).

ISEPTEMBER

ALICE ENDS AN HOUR EARLY.

ALICE ENDS AT 00 RM wiTH FRIDAY-SATURDAY-SUNDAY WEEKENDS (MUSLIM + JEWISH + CHRISTIAN).

con

—-ERIDAY-SATURDAY WEEKENDS | TORINSTANCE, SINCEIT's

Siixcam) é 1 DO WHAT | CAN, WHEN | CAN,

fe)

[SEPTEMBER|

1RICK HER UP ON FOOT.

WE TAKE A Minibus.

WHADDAYA WANNA PLAY?

WE RETURN BY MINIBUS. AND WE WALK HOME.

|

HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO WEAR OUT THE TOES ON YOUR SNEAKERS

50 FAST?

MayBe YOU COULD TRY

BRAKING YOUR SCOOTER

THIS AFTERNOON, I'M TAKING LOUIS TO WEST JERUSALEM TO BUY HIM A NEw PAIR OF SHOES.

WITH THE SOLES OF YOUR SHOES INSTEAD?

JAFFA ROAD HAS BEEN ONE Bié CONSTRUCTION ZONE EVER SINCE THE TRAM WORK STARTED.

on

COME TO THINK OF iT, THIS IS THE SPOT WHERE

A BULLDOZER PLOVEHED \NTO THE CROWD LAST JULY.

A PALESTINIAN FROM EAST JERUSALEM WAS AT THE WHEEL. HE OVERTURNED A CITY BUS AND fee SEVERAL CARS BEFORE HE WAS

A CiV\LIAN MANAGED TO CLIMB ONTO THE BULLDOZER AND SHOOT THE DRIVER AT POINT BLANK RANGE.

STOPPED.

THREE PEOPLE WERE KILLED AND FORTY-SIX INJURED.

HEY DAD, LOOK! A BACKHOE!

93

ALRIGHT, THE KiDS ARE iN SCHOOL. I'VE GOT A FEW HOURS TO MYSELF. | CAN FINALLY GET STARTED ON MY BLOG.

THE SETTLEMENT

ACROSS

THE WAY

IT'S THE CLEANING LADY. SHE CLEANS.

THE THREE APARTMENTS RENTED BY

MSF. WE AGREED THAT SHE'D COME AT THE END OF THE DAY. | CALL NADEGE, WHO \S ALSO THE H.R. MANAGER,

PLUS SHE'S HERE

wiTH THAT LITTLE BRAT OF HERS!

FINE. I'LL 60 OUT FOR A

WALK...

4

HEY, WHY NOT VISIT THE SETTLEMENT ACROSS

ON FOOT, IT'S TEN MINUTES AWaY. YOU SUST CROSS THE EXPRESSWAY TO GET FROM THE ARAB QUARTER TO THE JEWISH SETTLEMENT.

he STREET? MAYBE I'LL FIND A PLAYGROUND HERE?

TOWARD

JERUSALEM—>

BEIT

HANINA

ITLL LET ME CLEAR [7 MY HEAD.

THE SETTLEMENTS ARE NOTHING LIKE | THOUGHT | PISGAT ZE'EV HAS 50,000 RESIDENTS. THEY WOULD BE. | HAD PICTURED TwO OR THREE SHACKS ON A HILL WITH A DOE.

MANY OF THE PEOPLE WHO LiVE HERE ARE

ORIGINALLY FROM RUSSIA OR ETHIOPIA. MOST

-f,

WAVE MOVED in BECAUSE iT'S CHEAP.” SOME

>

a

WOULD BE SURPRISED TO LEARN THAT THEY'RE = |> LIVING iN PALESTINIAN TERRITORY, AND THAT THEY'RE ILLEGAL UNDER INTERNATIONAL LAW THOUGH NOT UNDER ISRAELI LAW).

Ly

"WHICH MAKES THIS A SO-CALLED "ECONOMIC" SETTLEMENT.

95

HEY, GET A

/ Gt ve

LOAD OF THAT HUGE SHOPPING MALL!

LIKE ity ALL PUBLIC PLACES, IS AS ITY CHECK. Ss

THE FIRST TIME, |THOUGHT IT BUT AFTER, | SAW ENOUGH WAS A JOKE AND ANSWERED —- PEOPLE TAKE OUT GUNS OR WwiTH A HALF-SMILE. WEAPONS PERMITS TO REALIZE \T WAS NOTHING TO FOOL WITH.

DO You

NO, |DON'T

HAVE A GUN?

HAVE A GUN,

BEAUTIFUL.

FIRST YOU POUR ON BOILING z oo

D at

my

Qos Ae

{FAVOURITE

eg

q =zZ=—z

G00D oL

CHAGALL MUST

BE SPINNING IN His GRAVE.

265

THIS MORNING, I'M GOING TO RAMALLAH TO VISIT A GROUP OF GRAPHIC ARTISTS | MET AT LAST MONTH'S TALK.

STUDIO

THE STUDIO iS QUITE DYNAMIC. THEY DO POSTERS, ANIMATION AND EVEN COMICS.

YOU SEE A LOT OF EDITORIAL CARTOONS in

\ SPEND THE AFTERNOON WITH THEM. WE TALK

PALESTINE, BUT I'VE NEVER FOUND ANY LOCAL COMICS BEFORE.

ABOUT ANIMATION, DRAWING, INDEPENDENT PUBLISHERS... THEY'VE ‘60T A FOOSBALL TABLE, WHICH TAKES ME BACK TWENTY YEARS TO MY FIRST STUDIO in FRANCE.

YOU sHourd } PUBLISH \T.

266

DO You

:

\

KNOW A BIT OF HEBREW?

ry

“

beatae VAVERS OPEN THE TRUNK" AND "MOVE ON"...

HAVE YOU

EVER MET ANY eRaElia?

CHECKPOINT HEBREW. Ha HA |

_ \MET ONE ONCE IN JERICHO. A REAL NICE GUY.

HE SAID,

"YEAH, I'VE BEEN TO RAMALLAH..."

| REMEMBER | ASKED HIM if HE'D EVER

BEEN TO RAMALLAH.

HE LOOKS aT A SKETCH | DID OF THE BETHLEHEM CEMETERY, WITH THE WALL AND A wATCHTOWER in THE BACKGROUND...

SEE THIS? THEY KEEP AN EYE ON US EVEN WHEN WE'RE DEAD.

264

THEY WANT TO BE SURE WE CAN'T

| TAKE THE GALANDIYA CROSSING. BIG MISTAKE.

'D LIKE TO INVITE HiM TO COME DRAW iN JERUSALEM, BUT SINCE IT'S LanAN OPTION,

IT'S HOT AND NOTHING'S MOVING.

| poe MENTION Te

GODDAM!

VE GOT LOTS OF TIME TO EXAMINE THE LATEST GRAFFITI. {

IT's AMAZING

\T HASN'T BEEN ERASED.

NOW THAT SENDS CHILLS DOWN THE SPINE.

OR MAYBE THESE SOLDIERS ARE T00 YOUNG TO KNOW

PERFUME?

WHAT \T MEANS?

YOU WANNA

BUY PERFUME?

REALLY,

THANKS.

268

$0, HAVE YOU

x3 43 [EL Foun A House?

\T iSN'T EASY FOR A NON-

JEWISH COUPLE TO FIND

AN OWNER WHO'S WILLING

TO SELL IN PISGAT ZE'EV.

THEY'RE JEWS WHO BELIEVE THAT

JESUS WAS THE MESSIAH. APPARENTLY THE JEWISH COMMUNITY (ISN'T TOO CRAZY ABOUT THEM.

BUT THEN we

CAME ACROSS A MESSIANIC JEW.

WE KEEPS IT SECRET FROM HIS FAMILY. WE TOLD Us THAT IFHis KIDS EVER FIND OUT, THEY'LL PREVENT HIM FROM SEEING HIS GRANDCHILDREN, HMM... THAT'S NOT COOL.

\:

WHEN HE DISCOVERED

THAT ANDRE 1S CHRISTIAN, NOT MUSLIM, HE WAS THRILLED AND TOLD US HIS STORY.

| RETURN TO ABU DiS, SEARCHING OUT SOME SPOTS |

NOTICED LAST WEEK.

YOU'RE

DRAWING

THE WALL AGAIN? HERE, i)

UH...

THERE'S A BEAUTIFUL OLD TRUCK OVER THERE.

THIS ALRIGHT?

a

ES

JUST AS 1 GET STARTED, A HUGE GUY APPEARS OUT OF NOWHERE AND HEADS MY WAY.

_ 0K, WHAT iS _ AT THIS TIME? "M NOT ALLOWED TO SIT HERE, iS THAT iT?

HE LIVES IN THE HOUSE NEXT TO THE TRUCK, RIGHT BY THE SHARP BEND IN THE WALL. HE INVITES US OVER FOR A CLOSER LOOK.

270

BEFORE THE WALL WAS BUILT, HE USED TO RAISE GOATS.

NOW THAT HE HAS LOST HIS LAND, HE SELLS ROASTED CORN BY THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

HE WENT TO SCHOOL iN

JERUSALEM, BUT THESE DAYS WE CAN'T 60 ANYMORE.

WHILE WE TALK, |TRY TO

DRAW A PORTRAIT OF HIM.

NOT EVEN

TO PRAY.

HE LOOKS aT HIS PORTRAIT.

ME 00, |DO} PORTRAITS. |

24

AND YOU, YOU LIKE JEWS?

CANADA

DON'T reat .

YOU FROM?

it WOU ME, WE'RE GENERALLY SURPRISE

PRETTY FRIENDLY AS A COUNTRY.

\'M FROM CANADA,

NO, NO, CANADA DOn'T

LIKE. THEY LAUGH OF THE PROPHET.

OW REALLY? | HAVEN'T BEEN IN A WHILE, BUT THAT WOULD REALLY SURPRISE ME.

ou

THEY DO BAD DRAWINGS.

.

AW! THE CARTOONS... |

SEE. BUT THAT WASN'T US. ffd EE

UH... NO, THAT'S DENMARK!

THAT'S PAMADR|

TNE CUS CANADA, USE VERY, VERY NICE... DENMARK, VERY BAD!

THE PORE \S COMING TO JERUSALEM. THE CITY IS FESTOONED WITH LITTLE FLAGS IN THE COLOURS OF THE VATICAN. aaa

WAITING FOR BENEDICT

HE'LL BE STAYING NEXT DOOR

SO NOW | NEED TO SHOW MY ID | |AND THERE'S CONSTANT

TO THE AUGUSTA VICTORIA.

TO BOTH PALESTINIAN AND

ISRAELI OFFICERS ON MY WAY 0 THE STUDIO. a pasecnamives: se

ToT SIO pms

AERIAL SURVEILLANCE.

|

WHAT IS THIS? GAZA?

MANY PEOPLE TAKE a DIM VIEW OF BENEDICT

STRAIGHT ACROSS FROM HIS RESIDENCE, & SMALL SETTLEMENT in EAST JERUSALEM HAS RUT UP THIS BANNER. BS

XVI'S IMPENDING WISIT. GENERALLY SPEAKING,

THEY WOULD LIKE TO SEE HIM APOLOGIZE FOR THE VATICAN'S BEHAVIOUR DURING WORLD WaR TL.

GOD GAVE US THE TORAH

THESE POSTERS ARE ALL OVER

TOWN AS WELL. THEY DON'T Look VERY WELCOMING.

(Ae

HAVE YOU NOTICED THAT

AN ISRAELI SECURITY DETAIL HAS JOINED OUR PALESTINIAN COPS FOR

THE PORE'S visiT?

AND TODAY, THEY'RE EATING

TOGETHER IN THE CAFETERIA.

WEYL... THERE'S THE POPE'S WELICOPTER. WANT TO 60 WATCH FROM THE BALCONY

UP THERE?

BALCONY?

AT THE START OF THE WEEK, THEY WERE LOOKING AT EACH OTHER FROM & DISTANCE...

GOES TO SHOW...

1 THEN YESTERDAY THEY STARTED TALKING TO EACH OTHER...

TELL ME, AS A MAN OF THE CLOTH iN A CiTY OF MYSTERIES, HAVE You EVER EXPERIENCED ANY SUPERNATURAL

EVER DONE AN EXORCISM?

A GHOST?

PHENOMENA?

NOTHING SPECIAL.

YES,

ONCE, WHEN i WAS YOUNG, BUT I'D TAKEN SOME SuB-

STANCES OF iLL REPUTE...

GHOSTS! Have YOU EVER SEEN

“SUBSTANCES OF iLL REPUTE”... DO you REALIZE YOU JUST

SHATTERED my MAGE OF THE

CLERGY?

HERE COMES YOUR POPE.

275

YEAH, THAT

D'YOU THINK THIS

SHOULD BE FINE.

will aE0K?

KABBALAT

SHABBAT Qodooddy

MayBe TIE

BACK YOUR HAIR?

Ne vee WaNT

£ TO CALL HER AND

ASK \F YOU SHOULD

SHAVE YOUR HEAD?

HER IN-LAWS LIVE NEARBY IN PISGAT ZE'EV. THEY]

\ MET LOVISE THROUGH MY

BLOG. SHE'S FROM FRANCE, ANDf SHE'S HERE BECAUSE

a eae

ISAAC,

|iASKED LOUISE FOR SOME DRESS CODE POINTERS.

HAVE KINDLY INVITED US FOR KABBALAT SHABBAT, | |SHE SAID THE EVENING WOULD BE EASY-GOING. THE FIRST MEAL OF THE SABBATH. WE CAN EVEN COME BY CAR WITHOUT

OFFENDING ANYONE.

NABILA, OUR NEW NANNY,

246

WE MEET THE KAPSCHITZ FAMILY. o

Q

AT THE TABLE, THE FATHER RECITES A BLESSING, THE KIDDUSH.

LiT TWO CANDLES ON THE MENORAH.

THE MOOD (S RELAXED.

NOBODY HESITATES TO

FLIP A SwiTCH OR TURN ON THE STOVE.”

THEY'RE ASHKENAZi JEWS FROM KYRGYZSTAN, AND

THEY IMMIGRATED TO ISRAEL WN 1989, JUST BEFORE THE WALL FELL.

AT THE TIME, YOU RANA BiG RISK BY APPLYING FOR AN EXIT WSA IN THE USSR. THOSE WHO WERE REFUSED EXPERIENCED SEVERE REPRESSION.

"LOUISE EVEN GETS TO DRINK HER COFFEE WiTH MILK AT THE END OF THE MEAL. MEAT + MILK = A MAJOR VIOLATION OF JEWISH DIETARY LAWS.

THE MEAL ENDS OVER A FEW GLASSES OF VODKA. | GET THE

AT THE OTHER END OF THE TABLE, NADEGE iS DEER in

SENSE iT'S A TRADITION THAT'S CROSSED BORDERS.

CONVERSATION WITH THE MOTHER.

7

BUT ISN'T iT DANGEROUS FOR

THE CHILDREN TO LINE IN BEIT HANINA?

IN THE END, SEBASTIEN AND 1G0 BACK TO AL-QUDS UNIVERSITY AFTER ALL TO RUN A WORKSHOP.

RETURN TO

IT's YOUR

RAMALLAH

:

EXHIBIT.

THE CLASSROOM 1S SHUT. WE

SOMEONE FINALLY OPENS THE

160 THROUGH THE PAGES ONE

WAIT AROUND FOR.ALONG WHILE. ||DOOR. FOR LACK OF AN ALTER- | |BY ONE WITH THE SAME Six

| RECOGNIZE TwO WOMEN FROM} THE FIRST TALK.

|NATIVE, WE PUT THE FRAMED

GIRLS AS LAST TIME.

PAGES UP ON EASELS,

DO YOU KNOW

AND HERE'S

WHO HAS THE KEYS?

AN ELLIPSIS TO CARRY THE RHYTHM THROUGH

THE PAGE. i]

SOME LISTEN, OTHERS TALK OR MAKE CALLS.

\FIND MYSELF WITH TWO STUDENTS WHO

A FEW GUYS STROLL IN, HANDS in THEIR POCKETS, AND THEN LEAVE AGAIN OR HANG AROUND THE BACK OF THE ROOM...

ARE LISTENING POLITELY.

LET'S TAKE A BREAK. WHEN WE 6ET

BACK, WE'LL START AN EXERCISE.

248

\ CHAT WITH THE ONLY ONE WHO SEEMS MOTIVATED. SHE TELLS ME ABOUT HER YEAREND PROJECT. gees

MY MOTHER WAS KILLED BY AN ISRAELI SOLDIER. THEY CAME TO SEARCH THE HOUSE ONE NIGHT. MY

THE BREAK DRAGS ON. |

TRY TO ROUND UP THE PARTICIPANTS,

MOTHER WaS PUSHED

AROUND AND SHE FELL, HITTING HER HEAD.

600) LORD!

THE JOYS

OF TEACHING

WHEN THE WOMEN RETURN, THEY RASS AROUND A BOX OF CHOCOLATE. THEY SEEM

TO BE CELEBRATING SOMETHING.

THEY JUST FOUND OUT —

THAT THEY PASSED THEIR TEACHING EXAMS, AU... CONGRATULATIONS!

WHAT'S GOING ON?

TO TEACH ART, OF COURSE!

2749

TO TEACH WHAT?

OK, LET'S KEEP \T SIMPLE. DRAW A CHARACTER.

i CAN'T DRAW

MAYBE YOU COULD DRAW )——~

HUMAN FIGURES.

LIKE MICKEY... HE'S A [cay

PICTURES OF

IT'S AGAINST MY RELIGION,

AN ANIMAL INSTEAD?

/ yo |

MOUSE... Ez OK, LET'S SEE... HOW ABOUT AN OBSECT, LIKE THE CAR iN i THEE PiPIXAR FILM?

arias CNOULD BE FINE.

SO WHY COME TO THIS WORKSHOP, | WONDER. OK... NOW USE

MARRIED AT FIFTEEN, ABUSED, DIVORCED, WENT BACK T0 SCHOOL, GRADUATED, AND NOW STUDYING FINE ARTS.

YOUR CHARACTER TO CREATE A LITTLE FOUR-PANEL STRIP.

t

ME

YOUNG WOMEN,

OF

HOME.

EDUCATION iS A WAY OUT

IT'S A VERY STRANGE EXPER\ENCE TO HAVE A CONVERSATION

WITH A PERSON WHEN YOU CAN'T READ THEIR FACIAL EXPRESSIONS. SOMETHING GETS LOST ALONG THE WAY.

ONE STUDENT HAS COMPLETED

THE EXERCISE.

es A MOTHER GIVES HER CHILD A SNACK FOR SCHOOL. HE

DOESN'T WANT iT BECAUSE HE DOESN'T LIKE EATING.

i}WOK AT HER WRisT

WHICH iS VERY THIN,

"BREAKING THE SILENCE” (S AN ORGANIZATION OF ISRAELI VETERANS WHO HAVE DECIDED TO BREAK THE MILITARY CODE OF SILENCE IN ORDER TO RAISE AWARENESS OF THE SITUATION IN THE

BREAKING THE SILENCE

OCCUPIED TERRITORIES, BASED ON THEIR. OWN

EXPERIENCE.

SINCE 2.004, THEY HAVE BEEN GATHERING TESTIMONY (OFTEN ANONYMOUS) FROM OTHER SOLDIERS AND PUBLISHING IT ON THEIR

THE FACT THAT THEY'RE ISRAELIS AND SOLDIERS

ALLOWS THEM TO BE HEARD AND TAKEN SERIOUSLY BY THEIR FELLOW CITIZENS.

WEBSITE AND IN PUBLICATIONS.

THEY ALSO OFFER GUIDED TOURS TO THE

LOVISE AND |WERE CURIOUS TO ViSIT

AREAS WHERE THEY SERVED.

HEBRON WITH THEM.

To YOUR LEFT,

THEFIELD ROADS PALESTINIAN FARMERS ONCE USED ARE NOW CLOSED OFF BY CONCRETE.

261

THIS ROAD WE'RE ON iS RESERVED FOR SETTLERS.

INSTEAD, LOCALS NEED

PALESTINE, PALESTINIANS ARE NOT ALLOWED

TO WORK IN THEIR OWN FIELDS.

TO TAKE HUGE DETOURS

EVEN THOUGH WE'RE IN TO USE iT.

ai THIS \S THE WEST BANK. iF YOU REMOVE THE AREAS PALESTINIANS CAN'T ACCESS— ROADS, SETTLEMENTS, MILITARY ZONES...

ANYONE BUILD A

NATION in SUCH CONDITIONS?

HEBRON

IN REALITY, THis is ALL THE TERRITORY THEY HAVE.

OK, LAST WEEK, WE RAN

T00 BAD, I'D HAVE

INTO TROUBLE WITH SET-

LIKED TO SEE THAT.

TLERS, SO WE'RE GOING TO CANCEL THE VISIT TO

WHAT? THE GRAVE OF A MURDERER?

GOLDSTEIN'S” GRAVE.

oe

ERE

LIES THE

"BARUCH GOLDSTEIN, HEBRON SETTLER carly DR. WHO KILLED TWENTY-NINE PALESTINiANS | |BARUCH...

NO, THE SETTLERS WITH THEIR WHISTLES.

\N (994,

282

OVER THE PAST WEEKS, THERE'S BEEN A SHOWDOWN BETWEEN OBAMA, WHO IS DEMANDING A SETTLEMENT FREEZE TO GET

THE PEACE PROCESS BACK ON TRACK, AND THE ISRAELI GOVERNMENT.

TO CALM THINGS Down, NETANYAHU HAS PROMISED

TO DEMOLISH SOME TWENTY SETTLEMENTS THAT ARE

CONSIDERED ILLEGAL.

UNDER INTERNATIONAL LAW, ALL THE SETTLEMENTS ARE \LLEGAL. FOR NETANYAHU, ONLY TWo DOZEN QUALIFY y As SUCH. HERE'S ONE OF THEM.

AND EACH TIME, \T'S BEEN REBUILT RIGHT AWAY.

T'S BEEN DEMOLISHED MORE

THAN FOUR TIMES. WE PASS BY THE KIRYAT ARBA SETTLEMENT TO ENTER HEBRON'S H2 AREA. A HEAVY MILITARY PRESENCE PROTECTS A FEW HUNDRED SETTLERS HERE.

m7 7

\F THE SETTLERS COME AND PROVOKE US, PLEASE DON'T RESPOND.

RESTRICTIONS ON

THE MOVEMENT OF PALESTINIANS IN

THE H2 AREA HAVE CREATED SURREAL CONDITIONS HERE.

THE ARMY EVACUATES ONE DAY AND PROTECTS THOSE WHO RETURN THE NEXT,

PALESTINIANS ARE PROHIBITED

BEFORE THE SETTLERS CAME,

FROM DRIVING IN THESE STREETS. ONLY SETTLERS AND THE ARMY ARE ALLOWED.

THIS WAS THE ECONOMIC HEART OF THE CITY... TODAY, IT'S A

GHOST MARKET.

AND THEY CAN'T EVEN WALK DOWN THis ONE ANYMORE.

THE ARMY HAS BOARDED UP THE DOORS.

SEE THAT? THE

SETTLERS HAVE

PAINTED THE STAR OF DAD ON ALL THE DOORS.

_

JET

BIZARRE...

IT's LIKE BEING \N GERMANY in THE 19308. 284

INITIALLY, WHEN THE SETTLEMENT \SSUE CAME UP, THERE

WAS TALK OF DEMOLITION, THEN \T WAS A SETTLEMENT HALT, AND NOW T'S A FREEZE OR EVEN A TEMPORARY FREEZE...

TO END TODAY'S TOUR, WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT SOMETHING THAT'S BEEN GETTING A LOT OF ATTENTION.

AND REMEMBER,

THAT'S NEGOTIATION FOR. YOU.

DON'T RESPOND TO PROVOCATION.

IVE rN HEN GET UP MAKES A PHONE CALL, THE tear eer. OTHER PICKS UP A CAMERA,

WE COME OUT ON TOP OF A HILL. THREE YOUNG MEN ARE

EYES EY ARE ALL RED. SOMETHING'S WRONG. UH... ARLE YOU ALRIGHT?

THEY SAY IT WAS LEGALLY BUILT.

3\7

WHY WOULD THEY WANT TO DO THAT?

1DON'T KNOW Hy...

IT'LL COST

WE'LL NEED

ONCE YOU GET A DEMOLITION

A FORTUNE...

NOTICE, THEY CAN COME

TO HIRE A

;

LAWYER

ANYTIME... SOMETIMES THEY

COME THE NEXT DAY, SOMETIMES YEARS LATER...

+

WE'LL BE UNDER

CONSTANT THREAT NOW.

AND if WE LOSE,

;

i CAN'T BELIEVE THEY'D DO THAT... THERE MUST

WE'LL NEED TO DEMOLISH iT OURSELVES,

OR ELSE THEY'LL

BE SOME MISTAKE.

MAKE US PAY FOR THE DEMOLITION OF OUR

OWN HOME.

1DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL HER.

G00D BYE.

|

SEE YOU,

AND THANKS

3\8

THE NEIGHBOURS GOT A NOTICE

Too...

iT'S MY TURN TO BE THE GUIDE. THERE'S A RLACE | FOUND LAST WEEK THAT | WANT NADEGE TO SEE.

NO... WELL... YES AND NO.. WE'LL TAKE A

SHORTCUT THROUGH

LOOK, A CHECKPOINT

FOR PEDESTRIANS...

THIS CHURCH GARDEN.

WHEN YOU CROSS OVER TO THE OTHER SIDE, YOU COME

TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS.

THIS \S WHERE | SAT

JUST THEN A PRIEST WHO iS

LAST WEEK $0 | COULD SKETCH THE CHECKPOINT UNNOTICED.

PASSING BY COMES TO SAY HELLO.

3\9

SPEAKING WITH A HEAVY US To WALK To THE BOTTOM OF THE GARDEN WITH HIM. SPANISH ACCENT, HE INVITES

SEE, THIS iS WHERE THEY BUILT THE WALL.

AND BEHIND iT, THERE'S & CONVENT. TO viSIT US, THE SISTERS NEED TO

COME BY CAR WE USED TO PASS

THROUGH THIS LITTLE DOOR. NOW THERE'S A CHECKPOINT.

SOLDIERS PATROL

Many CHRISTIANS

AT NIGHT.

CAN NO LONGER COME SEE US.

THEY'VE PUT UR

CAMERAS.

320

HE'S A HANDSOME MAN, WITH A SLENDER FACE, DEEP-SET EYES AND A SORROWFUL LOOK ABOUT HIM.

BEFORE WE KNOw iT, AN HOUR HAS GONE

THE INTERIOR IS QUITE

BY. THE PRIEST RETURNS TO HiS CHURCH, AND we FOLLOW HIM.

eecie

PLAIN AND BARE.

HE PUTS HIS THUMB INTO A VIAL OF OIL AND, LIKE THE SAINT THIS CHURCH IS DEDICATED 10,HE MAKES THE SIGN OF THE cet>> ON OUR FOREHEADS.

NADEGE, WHO iS MORE

iF WE'D BEEN BUDDHISTS OR

RELIGIOUS, SHEDS A TEAR. WITHOUT REALLY KNOWING WHY, VALMOST DO AS WELL.

ANIMISTS, THE GESTURE

WOULD HAVE BEEN THE SAME.

32

WE 60T BACK ALL THE

PAGES THAT WERE

EXHIBITED IN GAZA.

EXPATRIATES

iT WAS A BIG SUCCESS...

{.

LOTS OF STUDENTS ARE ASKING IF YOU'RE COMING

TO DO A WORKSHOP.

HAVE YOU TRIED GOING wiTH MSF?

1 Sue-

GESTED

THAT | COULD 60 DO A COMICS

\F iT WERE UP TO ME,

THEY OFTEN SEND PEOPLE

TO TAKE PHOTOS OR MAKE WDEOS TO PUBLIAZE

THEIR PROJECTS...

REPORT ON THEIR ACTINITIES

THERE.

SURE...

\ THOUGHT: WHY

NOT TRY COMICS? IT'S A HOT MEDIUM...

NO... THEY WEREN'T

YEAH... YOU SAID We.

WNTERESTED. ONE

WOMAN SA\D THAT wiTH

ALL THE FUSS ABOUT THE MOHAMMED CARTOONS, DRAWINGS WERE OUT...

32Z

GETTING INTO NORTH KOREA WAS EASIER!

IT'S ALWAYS SURPRISING WHO YOU MEET AT THESE EXPAT

EVENINGS. THERE'S BASICALLY]

THREE CATEGORIES: JOURNALISTS, AiD WORKERS

\ MEET A SCOTSMAN WHO WORKS FOR THE MIDEAST | QUARTET.

$0, HERE'S A GUY WHO'S HIGH

UP ON THE POLITICAL AND

DIPLOMATIC LADDER.

AND DIPLOMATS. eee ree ererereroeeesrosres

TWEY COOPERATE ON EFFORTS TO ADVANCE THE PEACE PROCESS BETWEEN: WORAEL ? eeeeerereusreseone

SINCE 2007, TONY BLAIR HAS

BEEN iTS OFFICIAL ENVOY. WHAT'S YOUR WORK LIKE ON

THIS 1S MY ONE CHANCE

TO GET SOME FIRSTHAND (INFORMATION,

THINGS LOOK PRETTY BAD

A DAILY BASIS?... ARE THERE

OPTIMISTIC MOMENTS ONCE

MOST OF THE TIME...

\N A WHILE, OR DO THINGS

LOOK PRETTY BAD MOST OF THE TIME?

ve

rAl

\ FIGURE HE'LL PROBABLY ELABORATE...

AND HOW'S \

THERE'S A FOURTH PROFESSIONAL CATEGORY \ DIDN'T EXPECT TO MEET HERE: SPIES

STOPPING AT THE BAR, | EXCHANGE A FEW WORDS wiTH A GUY WHO'S WAITING TO BE SERVED.

ce

CAREFUL!... TECHNICALLY, THAT GUY

\S NOT SUPPOSED TO BE TALKING TO YOU.

AUK? WHAT ARE YOU SAYING?

DON'T YOU RECOGNIZE HIM? THAT'S VANUNU, THE TECHNI-

CIAN WHO TOLD THE PRESS

ABOUT ISRAEL'S NUCLEAR WEAPONS PROGRAM IN 1986.

HE WAS KIDNAPPED AND REPATRIATED BY THE MOSSAD, THEN SENTENCED TO EIGHTEEN

YEARS iN PRISON, INCLUDING

ELEVEN in SOLITARY CONFINE-

WHEN HE WAS RELEASED IN { 2004, HE WAS PROHIBITED FROM SPEAKING WITH JOURNALISTS, AMBASSA

MENT, FOR TREASON.

KNOW HIM.

IN 2007, HE WAS SENTENCED FOR VIOLATING HiS PLEDGE OF SILENCE. “HE SHALL NOT HAVE CONTACT WITH CITIZENS OF OTHER COUNTRIES

AND COMIC D) BOOK ARTISTS?

HE CONVERTED TOY

CHRISTIANITY DURING WIS PRISON STAY.

BUT ISRAEL." Be

GOD MOVES iN MYSTERIOUS WAYS!...

(iN 2010, HE WOULD SPEND THREE MONTHS iN WAIL.

324

\ TAKE THE CAR TO G0 SHOPPING ONE LAST TIME BEFORE |SELL iT. THIS AFTERNOON, \M MEETING AN ExPaT Sau SEEMS INTERESTED.

ONE-WAY

IF THERE'S ONE THING |WON'T MiSS ABOUT THIS PLACE...

VALWAYS FORGET TO LEAVE. ENOUGH SPACE TO 60 OVER IN ONE SHOT.

AT'S THE ONE-WAY TRAFFIC

S01 END UP IN A SWEAT WHEN | SHIFT INTO GEAR ON AN INCLINE, IMAGINING

GROUND.

LIKE iF 1 SCREW Uf.

SPIKES INSTALLED IN THE

WHAT MY TIRES WiLL LOOK

315

AS PLANNED, |MEET MARCEL iN THE AFTERNOON,

HE HAS ME COME TO SHEIKH JARBAH, A NEIGHBOURHOOD IN EAST JERUSALEM THAT'S BEEN in THE

NEWS BECAUSE SOME THIRTY FAMILIES THERE ARE THREATENED WITH EVICTION.

MARCEL iS SPANISH. HE'S BEEN LIVING HERE FOR A WHILE AND WORKS FOR AN NGO. HE'S AN "ACTIVIST," THE TERM USED FOR THOSE ACTIVELY INVOLVED iN THE PALESTINIAN STRUGGLE. THERE'S NO RADIO?

RECEG

\” HERE... WANNA \ | {TAKE iT FOR A SPiN? SEE THAT TENT? IT WAS

PUT UP BY A FAMILY THAT

WAS EVICTED FROM iTS

THEY'VE BEEN

THERE FOR

\KNOw THEM

WELL... DO YOU WANT TO MEET THEM?

WOME ACROSS THE STREET.

SHEIKH JARRAH iS THE

LATEST TARGET FOR SETTLEMENT in EAST JERUSALEM.

LIKE THE CAR?

326

THE SETTLERS will DO ANYTHING TO LAY CLAIM

TO THIS PLACE.

AND IN A FEW YEARS, WHEN

THE EVACUATION PROJECT

\S COMPLETED, THEY'LL TEAR

DOWN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD AND BUILD A NEW ONE.

ON OUR WAY, WE PASS BY THE TOMB OF SIMEON THE JUST. SINCE NEITHER OF US HAS EVER BEEN, WE 60 in.

LAST NIGHT, WE KEPT

WATCH IN THAT HOUSE OVER THERE TO KEEP

ANOTHER FAMILY FROM

BEING EVICTED.

YOU HAVE A KIPRA2

storise eM

MARCEL INTRODUCES ME TO THE FAMILY.

324

THE MOTHER INVITES ME IN WITH A WORRIED LOOK ON HER FACE.

\FORGOT

ALL ABOUT Wes

| MISSED A FEW DETAILS, BUT IT SEEMS THAT AFTER YEARS OF LEGAL WRANGLING, THE FAMILY

\S ON THE VERGE OF BEING EVICTED DESPITE HAVING OWNERSHIP DOCUMENTS FOR THIS HOUSE, WHICH WAS BUILT IN 1956.

AND THEY'RE NOT ALONE. ON THE | THE INCREDIBLE IRONY IN ALL

THE CAR? i'LL TAKE iT...

WALL, A MAP OF THE NEIGHBOUR- | of THis 1s THAT JEWS ARE

HOW ABOUT WE DO THE

HOOD INDICATES HOUSES THAT | | CLAIMING A RIGHT OF RETURN, WAVE BEEN TAKEN OVER iN RED

WHICH THEY REFUSE To GRANT | |

AND THOSE TARGETED IN GREEN.

To PALESTINIANS WHO WERE EXPELLED IN 1848,

s

PAPERWORK NEXT

THURSDAY?... | CAN'T

\C

:

aNY EARLIER.

SRS

“0 WHAT'RE we ae v0 ABOUT THE

CAR?

|

}

DAY EVENING!

TRAFFIC iS A NIGHTMARE THIS MORNING. \T TAKES ME AN HOUR JUST TO DROP OFF THE KiDs. O

C'MON DAD! PASS HiM!.. WHEN WE DRivE PAST MEA SHEARIM, | CAN SEE WHY.

SOME ULTRA-ORTHODOX JEWS WERE DEMONSTRATING THIS MORNING. LOOKS LIKE iT G0T UGLY.

IT'S THE START OF A LONG

BATTLE WiTH CITY HALL OVER PLANS TO OPEN A PARKING LOT ON THE SABBATH.

1STOP BY THE MOUNT OF OLIVES To PICK UP MY THINGS AND SAY GOODBYE.

_ OW BOY...

IT'S GONNA BE

[PL TOUGH LEAvinG THIS STUDIO.

329

V DON'T THINK I'LL EVER HAVE A NICER PLACE TO WORK IN AGAIN.

T00 BAD |DiDN'T GET MORE DONE HERE,

ONE YEAR. 1S A TRICKY LENGTH OF TIME... JUST WHEN YOU START MAKING FRIENDS, YOU NEED TO MOVE ON...

A SECOND YEAR WOULD HAVE BEEN MUCH EASIER FOR US...

GUESS WHAT... A WOMAN

//,

FELL INTO A TRANCE DURING * !VE NEVER SEEN COMMUNION THE OTHER DAY. ,ANYTHING LiKE iT.

330

WE THROW A PARTY AT OUR PLACE TO SAY OUR LAST GOODBYES.

NICOLA iS THERE. MANAGE TO SELL

YOUR CAR?

YES, LL BE DOING THE PAPERWORK

TOMORROW.

VASK ABOUT NABILA. THEY

THANKS, AND ENJOY THE

FINALLY HIRED A LAWYER TO

PREVENT THE DEMOLITION OF THEIR HOME.

REST OF YOUR TIME HERE!

WaTCH OUT FOR THE KANGAROOS WHEN YOU 60 BACK TO THE 200!

1BUMP INTO ATTAR, WHO'S LOOKING AT MY SKETCHES. THERE'S MANY

OF THE WALL.

7 \LL st THE PROCESS

UH... YEAH... IT'S INTERESTING, GRAPHICALLY SPEAKING...

ATTAR (S AN ISRAELI PSY-

CHOLOGIST. SHE VOLUNTEERS FOR

MSF BY WORKING WITH PSy-

CHOLOGISTS RETURNING FROM THE FIELD. SHE GiVES THEM SUPPORT AND ADVICE. IN A WAY, SHE'S THE SHRINKS! SHRINK,

33I

ABOUT FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, \ WENT TO NORTHERN IRELAND... \ WAS IN DERRY,” LOOKING AT THE WALL SEPARATING CATHOLICS AND PROTESTANTS...

A THOUGHT TO MYSELF: AT LEAST WE DON'T HAVE THIS IN ISRAEL.

AND LOOK aT WHERE WE ARE TODAY...

“ALSO CALLED LONDONDERRY.

THE EVENING ENDS LATE. THE KIDS ARE ASLEEP. WE TIDY Uf BEFORE GOING TO BED. e

AND THAT'S iT, & YEAR OF 600D AND FAITHFUL SERVICE.

332

THE NEXT MORNING...

NADEGE iS WORKING. THE KiDS ARE WITH | FRIENDS, | CLEAN Uf THE APARTMENT AND PUT ALL OUR LUGGAGE In A CORNER.

\TAKE A PICTURE AND POST

\T ON MY BLOG, TO SAY THAT

\T's COMING TO AN END NOW TO0, ALONG WITH

A WHOLE YEAR

OUR STAY.

NA COUPLE OF SUITCASES...

AS PLANNED, i 60

.

TO THE LICENSE

V KNEW THIS WASN'T GOING

NOW WHAT AM | GONNA DO WITH THIS BEATER?

TO TURN OUT

WHERE THE HECK (S HE? LEAVING

TONIGHT...

\M GOING

TO PUT in & RADIO.

MARCEL SHOWS UP UST IN

TIME TO DO THE PAPERS.

’

:

vee A LIFT?

333

SORRY FOR BEING LATE, BUT | DIDN'T GET MUCH SLEEP

WERE YOU BACK IN SHEIKH JARRAH?

YES, A BUNCH OF US WERE

TRYING TO PROTECT A HOUSE, BUT THEY WENT INTO AN EMPTY ONE NEXT DOOR AND BROKE A HOLE THROUGH THE WALL.

LAST NIGHT.

a a

YES... HERE, I'LL

"LDON'T WANT THEM

SHOW YOU, IT'S

ON OUR WAY,

TO SEE ME, THEY'LL RECOGNIZE ME...

A \NSANE!

AND NOW THAT THEY'RE in, (T'S

SEE?... THEY'RE CLOSING UP THE HOLE THEY MADE

OVER...

LAST NIGHT.

THEY'RE IN FOR GOOD.

THEY'VE HIRED

PRIVATE SECURITY FOR PROTECTION.

334

335

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ACCLAIMED GRAPHIC MEMOIRIST GUY DELISLE RETURNS WITH HIS STRONGEST WORK YET—A THOUGHTFUL AND MOVING TRAVELOGUE ABOUT LIFE IN THE HOLY CITY. PREVIOUS PRAISE FOR GUY DELISLE ‘[Delisle’s books are] some of the most effective and

fully realized travel-writing out there.’ —NPR

‘Guy Delisle has entered the comics scene like a breath of fresh air.’ — JOE SACCO, THE NATIONAL ‘Great stuff —and proof that the comics panel can be

another kind of window on the world.’ —THE GUARDIAN

_ [Delisle] puts everyone’s triumphs, tragedies and (especially) foibles on full display. It’s journalism the way journalism:should be: readable,

educational and, hopefully, transformative.’ —CHICAGO SUN TIMES

‘Delisle’s reportage is appealingly brisk and casual.’ —THE ONION AV CLUB “Delisle navigates politics and culture shock with a keen eye and gentle humor.’ —MOTHER JONES GUY DELISLE EXPERTLY LAYS THE GROUNDWORK FOR A CULTURAL ROAD MAP OF CONTEMPORARY JERUSALEM, utilizing the classic stranger-in-a-strange-land point of view that made his other books, Pyongyang, Shenzhen, and Burma Chronicles, required reading for understanding what daily life is like in cities few are able to travel to. In Jerusalem: Chronicles from the Holy City, Delisle explores the complexities of a city that represents so much to so many. He eloquently examines the impact of the conflict on the lives of people on both sides of the wall while drolly recounting the quotidian: checkpoints, traffic jams, and holidays.

When observing the Christian, Jewish, and Muslim populations that call Jerusalem home, Delisle’s drawn line is both sensitive and fair, assuming nothing and drawing everything. Jerusalem showcases once more Delisle’s mastery of the travelogue. : % GRAPHIC NOVEL £16.99 ISBN 978-022-4-09669-0

IAT

WWW.\VINTAGE-BOOKS.CO.UK WWW.CAPEGRAPHICNOVELS.CO.UK JONATHAN CAPE RANDOM HOUSE 20 VAUXHALL BRIDGE ROAD LONDON SWIV 2S5A