Haynes Yamaha FZR600, 750 and 1000 Owners Workshop Manual 1563920565, 9781563920561

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YAW EGE FZR600, 750 & 1000 Fours 1989 to 1994 US, 1989 to 1993 UK 0 599cc 1987 to 1993 oO '749cc, 750cc, 989cc, 1002cc

€prea Dhillip Cox 7)

HAYNES

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/yamahafzr600/75010000ahIs

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Yamaha FZR600, 750 & 1000

Owners Workshop Manual by Alan Ahlistrand and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: US: Yamaha FZR600/600R. 599cc. 1989 through 1994 Yamaha FZR750R. 750cc. 1987 and 1988 Yamaha FZR1000. 989cc. 1987 and 1988 Yamaha FZR1000. 1002cc. 1989 through 1993

UK:

Yamaha FZR 600. 599cc. 1989 through 1993 Yamaha FZR750R (OW01). 749cc. 1989 through 1992 Yamaha FZR1000. 989cc. 1987 through 1988 Yamaha FZR1000 EXUP. 1002cc. 1989 through 1993

(1X1-2056)

ABCDE

Haynes Publishing Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

| 629 2ouiou en

SA

rE

Acknowledgements Our thanks to Mitsui Machinery Sales (UK) Ltd for permission to reproduce certain illustrations used in this manual. We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color spark plug condition photos and the Avon Rubber Company for supplying information on tire fitting. Special thanks to Grand

Prix Kawasaki/Yamaha,

Santa Clara, Califor-

nia, for providing the motorcycle used in these photographs; to Pete Sirett, service manager, for arranging the facilities and fit-

ting the mechanical work into his shop’s busy schedule; and to Chris Campbell, service technician, for doing the mechanical work and providing valuable technical information.

© Haynes North America, Inc.

1994

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 056 5 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number

94-76571

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 94-352

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Yamaha FZR Identification numbers Buying parts General specifications Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Safety first! Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants Troubleshooting

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7 0-9 0-15 0-16 0-17

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 FZR600 engine, clutch and transmission

2-1

Chapter 3 FZR750/1000 engine, clutch and transmission

3-1

Chapter 4 Cooling system

4-1

Chapter 5 Fuel and exhaust systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Ignition system

6-1

Chapter 7 Frame, suspension and final drive

7-1

Chapter 8 Brakes, wheels and tires

8-1

Chapter 9 Fairing and bodywork

9-1

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Wiring diagrams

10-1

10

10-27

Conversion factors Index

IND-1

IND

: VAMAWA

Yamaha FZR600

Yamaha FZR1000

Se

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that

Section. Procedures,

once

described

in the text, are not normally

re-

peated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward. Motorcycle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Yamaha The Yamaha FZR series are highly successful and popular highperformance sport bikes.

The engine on all models is a liquid-cooled, inline four with double overhead camshafts. FZR600 models have four valves per cylinder; FZR750 and 1000 models have five (three intake and two exhaust). Fuel is delivered to four Mikuni carburetors by an electric fuel pump. California models and some UK models use Yamaha’s Exhaust Ultimate Powervalve (EXUP) device in the exhaust system. This valve varies exhaust backpressure for improved performance and reduced

FZR

exhaust emissions. The front suspension uses a pair of conventional or cartridge forks. Spring preload is adjustable on FZR750/1000 models. The rear suspension uses the Yamaha Monocross design, which

employs

a shock

absorber/spring

unit

mounted

ahead

of the

swingarm. The suspension provides a progressive damping effect. Spring preload is adjustable.

The front brake uses dual discs and the rear brake uses a single disc.

numbers on SS ficati identi a NR PR

wea

The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the frame and printed on a label affixed to the frame. The engine number is stamped into the right upper side of the crankcase. Both of these num-

bers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a theft. The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor

with your driver’s license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine. The models covered by this manual are as follows:

FZR600/600R, 1989 through 1994" FZR750R, 1987 and 1988 (US), 1989 through 1992 (UK) FZR1000, 1987 through 1993

identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as

*Not including 1994 UK FZR600R models.

Identifying model years

FZR750 models

The procedures in this manual identify the bikes by model year.

To determine which model year a given machine is, look for the following identification codes in the engine and frame numbers. The initial frame/engine no. is given in parentheses for UK models. Year

2NK -US 3CS1 - US 3SG1 - UK (@PK-001101)

A990 aren.

3SG2 - UK (8PK-003101) As 1989 model - UK

WOW 2 oersracce

Code

FZR1000 models

FZR600 models VOSS teats ces

11987 1988 SGR0 meme

3HH1 - US except California

URI) cccpsonncacr

1990 re ees.

3HH4 - US except California

1988 ..........04.

3HW2 - California 3HE3 - UK (8HE-026101)

WB aocsoncconcta

3HH6 - US except California

UE) rsccoonesscce

199 2eee

3UU2 3HE7 3HHB8 3UUS 3HE8

California UK (8@HE-054101) US except California California UK (8HE-088101)

NOOO Meee wees

3HHA - US except California

TOOT ccereate mses

1993) eee:

-

—— - California SHEE - UK (8HE-106101)

‘1994 Sere

3HHC - US except California

2LH - US except California 2LJ - California 2RG - UK (2RG-000101)

3HW1 - California 3HE1 - UK (8HE-000101)

3DU1 - US except California 3CA1 2RG 3LK1 3LK2 3LG1 3LK4 3LK5 3LG2

- California - UK - US except California - California - UK (8LG-000101) - US except California - California - UK (8LG-004101)

3LK7 - US except California 3LK8 - California 3LG3 - UK (8LG-009101)

AO reene reece

3LKA - US except California

1 OOS pee

3LKB - California 3LG4 - UK (LG6-012101) 3LKD - US except California

3UU5 - California

3LKE - California

3LG5 - UK (LG5-017101)

The frame number is stamped in the right side of the frame and is also displayed on a decal

The engine number is stamped in the right side of the crankcase

Buying parts Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them

for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts

they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle, the accessory store is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have ma-

jor suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison. Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.

General specifications FZR600 models Wheelbase

VSTAN INGUIN Soywe wen cecece cone outta se Chetes tvaea esansuasassbvatanchuedsoteceetearoesatee MOV OTAUCH iacre e cece steep serene tangs cacatec ss ssa cnaveuvsrvincsercaievsstretapnsetsaateatcs

Overall height PBS cari WOOO cece sare ame cerearetad veut acide avatce cutest cy cpeeeerrmee re attire ROA SIAL eee noesectccece cs eye ce nw tealVanservadsncsavastassons sianecenssjeus ddasoa reptseis round Clearance (TAMIL) csesec hea sevoesiedsas.asauassowsc2--creetereevedeaterees Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

1989 and 1990 UWSiexcept Califone ser. srccsos ses -z-seceeveiseneestvescssrssensversvevesesis ANF MMe ores ces nec seas e ate one csosansibcascusaisecpects sapneqeeumacanes 1991-on LUIS Syeeseyeit(Cea (0)OilBl scotecensoncege srodoacocoanonnocno ogo madopeoncostoes SATOMI cere erate eect ean ceveas .-rtrset avescotocesnoriseumne ese

1420 mm 1425 mm 2095 mm 700 mm

(55.9 inches) (56.1 inches) (82.5 inches) (27.6 inches)

1160 mm 1155 mm 785 mm 135 mm

(45.7 inches) (45.5 inches) (30.9 inches) (5.3 inches)

199 kg (439 Ibs) 204 kg (450 Ibs) 201 kg (443 Ibs)

201 kg (443 Ibs) 206 kg (454 Ibs) 203 kg (448 Ibs)

FZR750R models (US) MASS SL eee ee ee ene ees evenness cnevens ioe sccacaremteemencrsneeae OVerall GNU reseectes exces saeco ceecas-enseasurnasseessesseresexcesncaneaneontaccmecs=? ee oes cates cen ceeceereds arte caeencennierasaar steed te VSI IRV ICKL eee ceeeersseesertstssacnar scratceeceseeereetaceeeren tec etanssotaec OVerallineiaittemeer SOAP IOI nrseer see teseescevescescevssircossevvenurseparcnesncvascecessucsransonshonscser Ground! clearance (MINIMUM) te ee See Seat height lO S7and! OSS Mente ce eee ae ke

OS Oracle OOO Meee, cee seeae. Meroe ior thee eek eens eee

hs

AUSTOYRes eae hes teh ear oe RES Arcee yd rs me Ground clearance (minimum) OG wenCllOO Rane ote oe veteran catletra A ate kh sd Rede. aly eee ISIS 6) (hakamea tyOnreesdecccos ee Ee ne ER uee Weight (with oil and full fuel tank) aHCLEH/ Yello PalCSts law acscnacescecay ea ARO ee ee ee fect in LOS tanclsl OOO. a aeueer ss ewe eeee, oh ee eee Ste eens LOO Ol se cmaeteresc e rt Cer tate he ets 2. ee ea

1470 mm (57.9 inches) 1460 mm (57.5 inches) 2205 mm (86.8 inches) 2200 mm (86.8 inches) 730 mm (28.7 inches) 745 mm (29.3 inches) 1215 mm (47.8 inches) 1160 mm (45.7 inches) 1170 mm (46.1 inches)

775 mm (30.5 inches)

765 mm (30.1 inches) 775 mm (30.5 inches)

140 mm (5.5 inches) 135 mm (5.3 inches)

229 kg (505 Ibs) 235 kg (518 Ibs) Not specified

——

ee

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Basic maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and

repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fastening systems Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive). All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it -work” for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and

removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor). Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly,

should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced.

Tightening sequences and procedures When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Over-

tightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt, depending on the material it’s made of, the diameter of its shank and the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, engine case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid

warping the component. Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be reversed.

surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and bolts can’t be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it’s a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for

some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer is best.

Hose removal tips Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose inates against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the hose at the

Disassembly sequence

clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during reassembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It’s a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean

completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will ease re-

moval if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Feeler gauge set

Spark plug gap adjusting tool wo

Control cable pressure luber

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, itis a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit Torque wrenches (left - click type; right - beam type)

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities a a a ee

Se

Snap-ring pliers (top - external; bottom - internal)

Valve spring compressor

Allen wrenches (left) and Allen head sockets (right)

Piston ring removal/installation tool

as Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges

0-11

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-to1-inch micrometer

Cylinder surfacing hone

Dial indicator set

Multimet er (volt/ohm/ammeter)

j Adjustable spanner

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

SSS

open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm) Adjustable wrench - 8 in Spark plug socket (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 in) Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm) Combination (slip-joint) pliers - 6 in Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Control cable pressure luber Grease gun

cluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can’t be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the

dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring removal and installation tool Piston pin puller Telescoping gauges Micrometer(s) and/or dial/Vernier calipers Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder compression gauge Dial indicator set Multimeter Adjustable spanner Manometer or vacuum gauge set Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck

Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Hand impact screwdriver and bits Funnel (medium size)

Buying tools

Safety goggles

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the ex-

Drain pan

Work light with extension cord

tent of the work

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set). Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 6 in Universal joint Torgue wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball pein hammer - 8 oz Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 in) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - locking Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2 in

Scriber Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/76 in)

Steel rule/straightedge - 12 in Pin-type spanner wrench A selection of files Wire brush (large) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between friend or friends (i.e. members of a motorcycle club).

SSS SSS SS SSS

yourself and a

This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are occasionally in-

to be done,

the purchase

of individual

satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from tail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a over the individual tool prices (and they often come

is planned, one of the substantial with a tool

tools

is

it would large resavings box). As

additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger

tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won’t last very long. There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454) available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets,

can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can’t be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a

very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, however,

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof). A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents,

etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with

caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station. Plastic jugs (such as old antifreeze containers) are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank) cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.

Safety first Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to ob-

serve simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme

care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. lf in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. DON’T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON’T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON’T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you. DON’T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine’s work or plastic components.

IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

paint

DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading). DON’T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your Capability - get assistance. DON’T rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts. DON’T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DON’T inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly. DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal. DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren’t left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle- especially the electrical system. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline (petrol) vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapors. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be

allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are

damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much prove fatal.

higher and could

Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices.

Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based soivents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue. Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, locks.

and are used as lubricants for hinges and

Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.

Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use

in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from

5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on

their chemical solve gum and They also serve surfaces of the

makeup. They usually contain solvents that help disvarnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper

cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.

Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays. Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent.

Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metalto-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces.

Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Symptom

Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start SEU EC Tag OLOCC

Abnormal engine noise

OS Slants NO LAL cvecenscveerse nce a facen des carey timers ver sereernchewectensts

|

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn OVEF «oe eeeeeeees

2

Starter works but engine won’t turn over (SeiZEd) ......... eeeeeeeeeees PRIUS WIV erp cease crs saya re somaer casas histancnssapsert cstvatapuapTernuninmieasveises EMQG MAS OOSOG ce eres acescates ss i ciscsseaspia loans ternasatee Fiapee is ackcosa oui tage INES POO WE AICS al crests eae sea doe ee eta we ras ce Sask axe epee nae can sae REOGOKESSNGTA LOW reece cae eth tates ee Bet wroe oy aaieea-n cmcnees sen cesens nan Mere

3 4 5 6 ih

BSS Re TPSTAIN erase oe eae coe cerisaN cores ect totrtte carrera tence tions FRO UG AMS eee ee oo tea - Setees coresbaat aerex voce essessalsentcevenaseovsieves vcsdeeuipeesoacz

8 9

Poor running at low speed ESIC meee ceo rceecees cers aren neo teas tetas ctene: aces Se nmin bananas. Rule altar uMCOMeCl, ke. 2 ae. Japvetss ss acstuecvassd-cnceceeare-hesossiercnak= IGOMSVESSIOMMOW teeters re co es con. ccs ces ssc esos exas race su enssrosacessentanacrxae POOMACCCIGIATON eecree cerecee carey eriosvocte ss seh es. 0s-Eoececsoe ooeaten tater oanurostcne

10 did 12 18}

14 15 16 17h 18

Overheating Engine OVerheats.........sccsccscsssscsseseereeecsseneesenecssssssenssessssssssssesneseens

19

FIriMG iNCOMM@Ct ......--2---ocsnccsesesscescscecnceecenereressenssersvesessaroatevavsnsueesnce secaentaeemee ence usassreterevesiansis cass Fee aha xctULOMIC ONPG Cl semeenacdersesteres

20 21

GOMPreSSiON tOONIGH:....-2.:+---00--2.sescecedseenenessecsucestsecsessssronsssccesancnss Engine load EXCESSIVE........cc:ccsceseeeeteeteesereeseeseneceesassesseransassecassessens Lubrication inaAdeQuate...........s.sscsrsccssccerecerererereesnrenssesesesseoresoneess pe ce cnceee recone an Jecccat doceecentboce sopscober cponcece ae IMiFesvevell FetaletetUtS (rele)

22 23 24 25

GNC HSI DING eecee: coresteseences race ecu evser=-caeeanenssreccmres-eacgurcsuersasenstosslsns Clutch not disengaging Completely............cseccsrsssetseeestseeseesseess

26 27

Gear shifting problems VESTELS eee

reece

28

see seesesesesecerseseeeneeerstseitsetseesassesenenerenetesteaenenees

29 30

eee

31 32 33 34

Abnormal driveline noise GIWECHY I OISC ia aereciai ae vicescence oxcuse cave cvastede esas etic aeapeeeien res asa TFAMNSIMISSIOM MOIS Oiveeor tetas codeecvcaesaseesensuies ceeenececeeeseet cts Seeanceataneeees Ghainzomfinalinive Oise ae wect-ncecceateeree vores eeeensteeenere eeeeeseeeeee

35 36 37

Abnormal frame and suspension noise FRONWONGINOISC Kaas Paes cesstevevsecese te cecsectstedtueeesotarereeseeseieerore Shock absorbenmOiseciar..sccc.cetohevcscecershenscarentuctesseeeavsstevgecesskeesears BrAKSMOISC area tcaccevstne.stececssencenssasaceceecsscaucteseaccteessJeshanueeocoseuersrncs

38 39 40

er aeree ees aaa -r santa stinta earaaaiesceavnriiccus

Engine WionicatlOnuSVStenier

Tune-up and routine maintenance

. 18.3a

Turn the throttle stop screw (arrow) in or out until the

18.3b

...and this is an FZR1000 (FZR750 similar) (arrow)

correct idle speed is obtained (this is an FZR600)...

18

Idle speed - check and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 18.3a and 18.3b 1 The idle speed should be checked and adjusted before and after the carburetors are synchronized and when it is obviously too high or too low. Before adjusting the idle speed, make sure the valve clearances and spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the handlebars back-and-forth and see if the idle speed changes as this is done. If it does, the accelerator cable may not be routed correctly, or it may be worn out. This is a dangerous condition that can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to correct this problem before proceeding. 2 The engine should be at normal operating temperature, which is usually reached after 10 to 15 minutes of stop and go riding. Support the motorcycle securely and make sure the transmission is in Neutral. 3 Turn the throttle stop screw (see illustrations), until the idle speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is obtained. 4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, then recheck the idle speed. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. 3) If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to Chapter 5 for additional carburetor information.

19

Carburetor synchronization - check and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 19.9a, 19.9b, 19.12, 19.13 and 19.14 Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open

cessory shop and should have the necessary rubber hoses supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum hose fittings on the carburetors. 4 A vacuum gauge setup can also be purchased from a dealer or fabricated from commonly available hardware and automotive vacuum gauges. 5 The manometer is the more reliable and accurate instrument, and for that reason is preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; however, since the mercury used in the manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, extra precautions must be taken during use and storage of the instrument. 6 Because of the nature of the synchronization procedure and the need for special instruments,

most owners

leave the task to a dealer

service department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop. 7 Remove the side covers, seat and fuel tank (see Chapters 9 and 5). 8 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shutit off.

9 Remove the screws from the vacuum ports on the carburetors and install vacuum fittings (see illustration), then hook up the vacuum gauge set or the manometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions (see illustration). Make sure there are no leaks in the setup, as false readings will result. 10 Start the engine and make sure the idle speed is correct. If it isn’t, adjust it (see Section 18). 11. The vacuum readings for all of the cylinders should be the same, or at least within the tolerance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the vacuum readings vary, adjust as necessary.

flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t

work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Carburetor synchronization is simply the process of adjusting the 1 carburetors so they pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to each cylinder. This is done by measuring the vacuum produced in each cylinder. Carburetors that are out of synchronization will result in decreased fuel mileage, increased engine temperature, less than ideal throttle response and higher vibration levels. To properly synchronize the carburetors, you will need some sort 2. of vacuum gauge setup, preferably with a gauge for each cylinder, or a mercury manometer, which is a calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes columns of mercury to indicate engine vacuum. You'll also need an auxiliary fuel tank, since the bike’s fuel tank must be removed for access to the vacuum fittings and synchronizing screws. Amanometer can be purchased from a motorcycle dealer or ac3.

19.9a

Remove the vacuum hoses or screws and install fittings like this one...

Chapter 1

1-28

ail: 19.9b

Tune-up and routine maintenance

eth

;

4

wo

19.12 Turn this screw (arrow) to synchronize carburetors no. 1 and 2 to each other (it’s located between the two left-hand carburetors)

...so atest gauge setup like this can be installed

12 To perform the adjustment, synchronize the carburetors for no. 1 and no. 2 cylinders by turning the synchronizing screw, as needed, until the vacuum is identical or nearly identical for both cylinders (see illustration). Snap the throttle open and shut 2 or 3 times, then recheck the adjustment and readjust as necessary. 13 Next synchronize the carburetors for no. 3 and no. 4 cylinders to each other by turning the synchronizing screw for those two carburetors (see illustration). As with the no. 1 and no. 2 carburetors, snap the throttle open and shut 2 or 3 times, then recheck the adjustment and readjust as necessary. 14 Finally, turn the center synchronizing screw to synchronize the two pairs of carburetors to each other (see illustration). 15 When the adjustment is complete, recheck the vacuum readings and idle speed, then stop the engine. Remove the vacuum gauge or manometer and install the screws or carburetor vacuum hoses.

loose fasteners. The lower fairing(s) will have to be removed to do this properly (see Chapter 9). If tightening the clamp bolts fails to stop any leaks, replace the gaskets with new ones (a procedure which requires disassembly of the system - see Chapter 5). 2 The exhaust pipe flange nuts at the cylinder heads are especially prone to loosening, which could cause damage to the head. Check them frequently and keep them tight.

20

Refer to illustration 22.4 2 To check the bearings, support the motorcycle securely and block the machine so the front wheel is in the air. 3 Point the wheel straight ahead and slowly move the handlebars from side-to-side. Dents or roughness in the bearing races will be felt and the bars will not move smoothly. 4 Next, grasp the wheel and try to move it forward and backward (see illustration). Any looseness in the steering head bearings will be felt as front-to-rear movement of the fork legs. If play is felt in the bearings, adjust the steering head as follows:

22

Steering head bearings - check, adjustment and repacking

1 This vehicle is equipped with tapered roller type steering head bearings which can become dented, rough or loose during normal use of the machine.

In extreme cases, worn or loose steering head bear-

ings can cause steering wobble that is potentially dangerous.

Check Crankcase ventilation system - inspection

Inspect the hose that runs from the ventilation fitting on the top of the engine to the air filter case. Make sure it’s securely attached. Replace the hose if it’s cracked or deteriorated.

21

Exhaust system - check

1

Periodically check all of the exhaust system joints for leaks and

235

£14

38

:

ge

19.13 Turn this screw (arrow) to synchronize carburetors no. 3 and 4 to each other (it’s located between the two

right-hand carburetors)

Rr atssiabaiai EG

: SN

Sioa

19.14 Turn this screw (arrow) to synchronize the two pairs of carburetors to each other (it’s located in the center of the carburetor assembly)

Chapter 1

aie

mee

SSS

s

a

Tune-up and routine maintenance

.

bj

22.4 Grasp the front wheel and try to pull it back and forth; if it moves, the steering head bearings are loose and in need of adjustment

22.5b

... and this is an FZR1000

Adjustment 22.5b, 22.7, 22.8a and 22.8b

5 Loosen the lower triple clamp bolts (see illustrations). This allows the necessary vertical movement of the steering stem in relation :

pais sete dubes Remove the handlebars and upper triple clamp (see Chapter 7). 6

7

Remove the lockwasher from the ring nuts (see illustration).

%: i

i

z

iis

Loosen the lower triple clamp bolt or bolts on each fork; this is an FZR600...

22.7

9

Refer to illustrations 22.5a,

t

22.5a

1-29

Remove the lockwasher from the ring nuts

Carefully tighten the lower ring nut to the initial torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications, then loosen it all the way and retighten to the

WE OWEN Glee MIU C19 CCP SEM NEF ie uate steering RED pes ue de MOTOS SEE IE TES AAR is any, remove the bearings for inspection (see Chapter 7). 11.

;

:

If the steering operates properly, install; the rubber washer and : ; : : ;

upper ring nut. Tighten the upper ring nut so its slots align with those of

8 Use a ring nut wrench (Yamaha tool no. YU-33975/part no. 90890-01430 or equivalent) to remove the upper ring nut and rubber washer (see illustrations).

No 22.8a

Use a ring nut wrench like this one to loosen the upper ring nut...

22.8b

... then unscrew the upper ring nut and remove the washer from beneath it (arrow)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-30

iis

24.6

the lower ring nut (don’t allow the lower ring nut to turn). If necessary, use the ring nut wrench to keep the lower ring nut from turning while you tighten the upper ring nut. 12 Install the lockwasher with its tabs in the ring nut slots. 13 Recheck the steering head bearings for play as described above. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. Reinstall all parts previously removed. Tighten the steering stem nut, triple clamp bolts and handlebar bolts to the torques listed in the Chapter 7 Specifications.

Lubrication 14 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the steering head bearings is recommended by the manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 7 for steering head bearing lubrication and replacement procedures.

23

Fasteners - check

1

Since vibration of the machine tends to loosen fasteners, all nuts,

bolts, screws, etc. should be periodically checked for proper tightness. 2 Pay particular attention to the following: Spark plugs Engine oil drain plug Oil filter cover bolt and drain plug Gearshift lever Footpegs, sidestand and centerstand Engine mount bolts Exhaust system mounts Shock absorber mount bolts Rear suspension linkage bolts Front axle and clamp bolt Rear axle nut 3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along with the torque specifications at the beginning of this, or other, Chapters.

24

25.3 Check above and below the fork seals (arrows) for signs of oil leakage

Fuel filter details (FZR600 shown; others similar)

Fuel system - check and filter replacement

Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or

allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin,

rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Check 1 Check the fuel tank, the tank breather hose, the fuel tap, the lines and the carburetors for leaks and evidence of damage. 2 \|f carburetor gaskets are leaking, the carburetors should be disassembled and rebuilt (see Chapter 5). 3 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening the screws may help. If leakage persists, the tap should be disassembled and repaired or replaced with a new one. 4

If the fuel lines are cracked

or otherwise

deteriorated,

replace

them with new ones.

Filter replacement Refer to illustration 24.6 5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 5). 6 Disconnect the lines from the filter and remove it from its bracket (see illustration). 7 Install a new filter and reconnect the lines.

25

Suspension - check

Refer to illustration 25.3 1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating condition to ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged suspension parts decrease the vehicle’s stability and control. 2 While standing alongside the motorcycle, lock the front brake and push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See if they move up-and-down smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the forks should be disassembled and inspected as described in Chapter 7. 3 Carefully inspect the area around the fork seals for any signs of fork oil leakage (see illustration). If leakage is evident, the seals must be replaced as described in Chapter 7. 4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure none have worked loose. 5 Inspect the rear shock for fluid leakage and tightness of the mounting nuts. If leakage is found, the shock should be replaced. 6 Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this procedure. Grab the swingarm on each side, just ahead of the axle. Rock the swingarm from side to side - there should be no discernible movement at the rear. If there’s a little movement or a slight clicking

can be heard, make sure the pivot shaft nuts are tight. If the pivot nuts are tight but movement is still noticeable, the swingarm will have to be removed and the bearings replaced as described in Chapter 7. 7 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension nuts and bolts.

Chapter 1

26.7a

26

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Be sure to let all cooling system pressure escape before removing the pressure cap completely

26.7b

1-31

Inspect both cap gaskets (arrows)

Cooling system - inspection

Refer to illustrations 26.7a, 26.7b and 26.8

Warning: The engine must be cool before beginning this procedure. Note: Refer to Section 3 and check the coolant level before performing this check. 1 The entire cooling system should be checked carefully at the rec-

ommended intervals. Look for evidence of leaks, check the condition of the coolant, check the radiator for clogged fins and damage and make sure the fan operates when required. 2 Remove fairing panels as necessary for access to the cooling system components (see Chapter 9). 3 Examine each of the rubber coolant hoses along its entire length. Look for cracks, abrasions and other damage. Squeeze each hose at various points. They should feel firm, yet pliable, and return to their original shape when released. If they are dried out or hard, replace them with new ones. 4 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling system joint. Tighten the hose clamps careful to prevent future leaks. If coolant has been leaking from the joints of steel or aluminum coolant tubes, remove the tubes and replace the O-rings (see Chapter 4). 5 Check the radiator for evidence of leaks and other damage. Leaks in the radiator leave telltale scale deposits or coolant stains on the outside of the core below the leak. If leaks are noted, remove the radiator (see Chapter 4) and have it repaired by a radiator shop or replace it with a new one. Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping compound to try to repair leaks. 6

Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and insects, which may im-

pede the flow of air through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, force water or low pressure compressed air through the fins from the backside.

26.8 An antifreeze hydrometer is helpful in determining the condition of the coolant

cooling system (see Section 27). 9 Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks again. As the coolant temperature increases, the fan should come on automatically and the temperature should begin to drop. If it doesn’t, refer to Chapter 4 and check the fan and fan circuit

carefully. 10 If the coolant level is consistently low, and no evidence of leaks can be found, have the entire system pressure checked by a Yamaha dealer service department, motorcycle repair shop or service station.

If the fins are bent or distorted, straighten them carefully with a screw-

driver. Remove the pressure cap by turning it counterclockwise (anti7 clockwise) until it reaches a stop. If you hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now, press down on the cap with the palm of your hand and continue turning the cap counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) until it can be removed (see illustration). Check the condition of the coolant in the system. If it is rust colored or if accumulations of scale are visible, drain, flush and refill the system with new coolant. Check the cap gaskets for cracks and other damage (see illustration). Have the cap tested by a dealer service department or replace it with a new one. Install the cap by turning it clockwise until it reaches the first stop, then push down on the cap

and continue turning until it can turn no further. Check the antifreeze content of the coolant with an antifreeze hy8 drometer (see illustration). Sometimes coolant may look like it’s in good condition, but might be too weak to offer adequate protection. If the hydrometer indicates a weak mixture, drain, flush and refill the

27

Cooling system - draining , flushing and refilling

Warning: Allow the engine to coo! completely before performing this maintenance operation. Also, don’t allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the motorcycle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell

and may of used will see bustible,

drink it. Check with local authorities (councils) about disposing antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which that antifreeze is disposed of safely. Antifreeze is also comso don’t store or use it near open flames.

Draining Refer to illustrations 27.2a, 27.2b, 27.2c and 27.2d

1

Place a large, clean drain pan under the left side of the engine.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance er

27.2a

27.2b

Later models have a drain bolt on the water pump; this is

...and this is an FZR750/1000

an FZR600...

27.2c

The coolant will shoot out of the drain hole, so position the pan accordingly

2 Remove the drain bolt from the bottom of the coolant tube or water pump cover (see illustrations) and allow the coolant to drain into the pan. After removing the drain bolt, remove the pressure cap (see illustration 26.7a) to ensure that all of the coolant can drain. Note: The coolant will rush out with considerable force as soon as the cap is removed, so position the drain pan accordingly (see illustration). Remove the drain plugs from the front of the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Drain the coolant reservoir. Refer to Chapter 4 for the reservoir removal procedure. Wash the reservoir out with water.

27.2d

In addition to the lower drain bolt, there’s a drain screw on each front corner or side of the cylinder block

8 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Let it run for about ten minutes. 9 Stop the engine. Let the machine cool for a while, then cover the pressure cap with a heavy rag and turn it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to the first stop, releasing any pressure that may be present in the system. Once the hissing stops, push down on the cap and remove it completely. 10 Drain the system once again. 11 Fill the system with clean water, then repeat Steps 8, 9 and 10.

Flushing

Refilling

4 Flush the system with clean tap water by inserting a garden hose in the radiator filler neck. Allow the water to run through the system until it is clear when it exits the drain bolt holes. If the radiator is extremely corroded, remove it (see Chapter 4) and have it cleaned at a radiator shop. 5 Check the drain bolt gaskets. Replace them with new ones if necessary. 6 Clean the holes, then install the drain bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 7 Fill the cooling system with clean water mixed with a flushing compound. Make sure the flushing compound is compatible with alu-

12 Fill the system with the proper coolant mixture (see this Chapter’s Specifications). When the system is full (all the way up to the top of the

minum

fully.

components,

and follow the manufacturer’s

instructions care-

radiator cap filler neck), start the engine. Watch the coolant and level as the engine runs, and add coolant when the level drops. When the

coolant level stabilizes, shut the engine off. 13 Fill the system with coolant to the top of the filler neck. 14 Allow the engine to cool, then check the coolant level in the reservoir (see Section 3). If the coolant level is low, add the specified mixture until it reaches the Full mark in the reservoir. 15 Check the system for leaks. 16 Do not dispose of the old coolant by pouring it down a drain. Instead, pour it into a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and take it to an authorized disposal site or a service station.

Chapter 2 FZR600 engine, clutch and transmission Contents Section

Section

Camshaft chain and guides - removal, inspection ANDSNES MUNA OLMIS gee lao rao gas aig Seawxks as boatmessdonengeanver ecbemioomere Camshaft chain tensioner - removal and installation..............06 Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and installation ......... Clutch cable - removal and installation ...........cccscccceeeeeseeeeeeeeereeees

27 8 9 20 Clutch - removal, inspection and installation .............ccccceeeeeeeeeeeeeee 19 PSOMMPIESSIOM ROS Eg eas ors eee nie cere ceraces Oss eac aves agpacslneaneee See Chapter 1 Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection,

bearing selection and installation .........cccccccscsseseeseeenseeesenees

26

Crankcase components - inspection and SerViCING........:cecceeeees Crankcase - disassembly and reasSembly ..........::::cccesseseeseeeeesseees

23) 22

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection,.

Initialistart=Uratte novell teens. sense tee eee crete resent eee 32 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note...............:: 24 Majonengine kepalty -(GemenaliOtemersessrecesetaeecrss ese-etenten seam srae 4 Oiled TitSte CHANG Seaaaeeccee ccs «eo cteeessx-Pecas-nesavcaseetenadessaens See Chapter 1 Oil cooler (UK models) - removal and installation ..............ccccseeees 31 Oil pan and relief valve - removal, relief valve inspection ANG INStallatiOmess aitecorsetesse eeeecweebacereseescorae a teereac uae ncesc eeeeree 16 Oil pump - oil pressure check, removal, inspection and: installations. ck. scrcselce Gee a teeeeeehs eens eRe ee 17 Operations possible with the engine in the frame...........0seeeceee 2 Operations requiring ENGiNe TEMOVAl ..........-cccccccccscssssstecccececeeeeees 3 RistompringstalmStallationirese-screcscteseavcete-ceeneaacceesttesseeesseceeete rtetere 15

main bearing selection and installation..........c:ccccceseeesseeeeees

25

Pistons - removal, inspection and installation ............ccccseceeeeeeees

Cylinder block - removal, inspection and installation ..............+

13

Recommended break-in Procedure ..........sccccccccccccsesessterereccecceeseens 33 Shift cam and forks - removal, inspection and installation............ 30 Spark pluigireplaGennemtircvescsstere seeeteateetereree caer reese See Chapter 1

Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection ATIC CASS Ug tere eee screen ee ecet cores cucnareve oar. teunenesasdatnetennternet Cylinder head - removal and installation..........cccccceeeenerseeeees Engine disassembly and reassembly - general information........... Engine - removal and installation ........1:ccccccsceeeeeeteeseeeeseeeeneeeseeees External shift mechanism - removal, inspection ICA MASTO emer aee eters troeees cee center ssacashesenarteceeraterere crest

Smell

tO

12 10 6 5

21

meeereeeeten acters secs eee ce res seaes cr rena edaverrenes ender. 7s

Starter clutch - removal, inspection and installation...

18

Transmission shafts - disassembly, inspection ANG MEASSEM DIV caceeceaenevecsesoscsoranchs vanteuenwns CaccessNeedewene hertecers Transmission shafts - removal and installation... Valvercover= removalland) InstallatiOm)tccrcces.:esssessseskeeeeststiareeeeseeers Valves/valve seats/valve QUIGES - SEIVICING .........cceececeesetteeeeeeeneees

29 28 7 11

ee

Specifications a

General

DiSPIACEMENL.........:ceseeerccssecrsccseeceseeseeenceressersseeeecasensereneeneenaeenesenees COMPFeSSION FAatiO .........:escecsessesseeseensesseeeneeneessessseaseasensenseneeeeaeses

59 mm (2.323 inches) 54.8 mm (2.158 inches) 599 cc VW Keyl

Camshafts Intake camshaft Lobe height CFV Foie |obey sonsnoann arian AAS a8 Are OC cas DO Rene ere COO un rn enari iat eececand RITAALITA) soso-ncoccotiocoscessessoaassecsuncae -aosecuee-bTodcecude¢fo,ooupecnantencr can (MAI Base circle ace naa tc resencctaaaapannasieeer(eccee=cenes eae TTC ACC See es cee aces sc ss-spsanseraneeencpcrensesavcereres ete IVAri(T ALi eee

14

32.75 to 32.85 mm (1.2894 to 1.2933 inch)

32.7 mm (1.287 inch)

24.998 to 25.098 mm (0.9842 to 0.9881 inch) 24.95 mm (0.982 inch)

Chapter 2

2-2 3

SSS

FZR600 engine, clutch and transmission

SSS

SS

Camshafts (continued) Exhaust camshaft

Lobe height SS Talo[e106 [eeecnnnee eetere eee ccenrre Arse anrrerecer enone rocco neasosconccatc TAT TOALWEinT ste nsonora-ceeconeensntesacobticcoteacn ated ehrrassseAreroseaseecerceenEnacoen Base circle SLAMCANCIE ce rcensos se: Senn esses cecaauescceauy sists cacy seenwactenesssurereeeeteeareaers

Nilleviae Win nipsmenternctenccaecre taretrercee rnocas rintavoncesmerrece Rm ecemaerans

32.55 to 32.65 mm (1.2815 to 1.2854 inch) 32.5 mm (1.280 inch)

24.998 to 25.098 mm (0.9842 to 0.9881 inch) 24.95 mm (0.982 inch)

Bearing oil clearance

Stam Glan Wheeneuasre et cncues penance. aston tects eee een eet necator

te cu rere

Nyreb CIOL fae aancicer necent cece eorcuacecnnnccoee coer tarencene oocoacracece ete per rReeREEEe Joutmaltcliannete tiga netscmace wnt cracecueweeccceeceeenrsnes deateeine seecteonec ngrasecGey BG antinGDONG aati ce tewrncie bare exe se cneneer sexnee anemone Donen er cox Suvigee Meese sews GCaMSiaherunioutslinnitiemmmecres sce teae acess cers etecern notes werd

0.020 to 0.054 mm (0.0008 to 0.0021 inch) 0.08 mm (0.0031 22.967 to 22.980 23.000 to 23.021 0.06 mm (0.0024

inch) mm (0.9042 to 0.9047 inch) mm (0.9055 to 0.9063 inch) inch)

Cylinder head, valves and valve springs (CAVMIMCKETT NERC! WHET OES TE TINUl cccoacece nt nese,coceasnoeaseoccd ocseacsesoosuauseueanencee Valvierstemmoein clinica: setscctrar-s-sa-ertrerseste: caneccesvertceesecesiorcsesueians

0.05 mm (0.002 inch) 0.04 mm (0.0016 inch)

Valve head diameter

IGLEELeS. ScRbcmbanecticnqaaie soa sararen ep carecostee boc er cetera Te reeRcenece ese Pores eee) EEX IMIS We waeeaeee tact ie ninestae sentieaniceeraends cer conse cedunctew ctkicsdceueaniuvedsacsys WEI ATICITA)HATES (GMATNIN ecoscccescoesenseesonossconsssobAendeesceeeceo0 Valve stem diameter Standard

[intel iteateceme et cecteer cach eeescrete neiele texear ate ceca Meese none mrensvensress ere EEX INES Ee reece te tree tee dene vet eu Sree sentvase col senemmncarsv ar tucemaemeoe wane ee Minimum NIGER Cea saree meme eigeneeeSersc nce aaatearn een nen cna caus runaenad seers cceeavredt causes EEX UUIS Bieeteaeas ence saps ce satin.ceav tvreapmnis wen canteens meses fetesen caewer eaten Valve head thickness (intake and exhaust) RSUEETRYOFI(en, ccoaenceece sects Sebeac bse senaECE scecae Eten ceE orEEC oR EeTEOSaEDEEEE AT nC

IVUINDIGID RN at essence tes eats cee vase Coot, Uartcerinaneescamiucecneentibomowe.ceuesanerees Valve guide inside diameter (intake and exhaust) Sel avelelie lis.nceescecerrones:oasuncsedeeccpndencneeeBoge cae odecrcadeene carck eecioee reeete NED GIOIA Gane cosec emcee ence acc nanect eer tee ebcer cont aaetaee rete ona Harkears onee Stem-to-guide clearance limit Inte oueereerre em cereerre ae tee, ter. eee tac - eae nacre ail Mea ere AEG oa pre nee etiorepence Canna ar ete eae aoraaonoe eeeoete eeres tarrntcre ret Valve seat width (intake and Exhaust) ...........:ccccsceseccesecseecseeessneareees WEIN iielOS) Witehiln) (Minuet Zinta] GY qFETUES) sca scoa so c050nnhoaneponanayeocnsanonedooecde

23.9 to 24.1 mm (0.941 to 0.949 inch) 20.9 to 21.1 mm (0.823 to 0.831 inch) 0.7 mm (0.0276 inch)

4.475 to 4.490 mm (0.1762 to 0.1768 inch) 4.460 to 4.475 mm (0.1756 to 0.1762 inch) 4.45 mm (0.1752 inch) 4.435 mm (0.1746 inch) 0.6 to 0.8 mm (0.236 to 0.0315 inch) 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) 4.500 to 4.512 mm (0.1772 to 0.1776 inch) 4.542 mm (0.179 inch)

0.08 mm (0.0031 inch) 0.10 mm (0.0039 inch) 0.9 to 1.1 mm (0.0354 to 0.0433 inch) 1.56 to 2.40 mm (0.061 to 0.095 inch)

Valve spring free length (intake and exhaust) SUT ATOF216 Eesaeeseorsbaneertrc enone aceee- cela eneor nena ucts nee beni adeernerecoraree MVE CUTae since ncaac cea nerencr Bache feenaeaeee orice score PRereene RSeneriim ond nance RRERP on Valve spring installed length

43.15 mm (1.70 inch) 41.2 mm (1.62 inch)

(WEIS Ee ae ESA PEWWISH) tasentscrcseceosoanbaohere soaedeeccnnasscorranetndcee oroemescmcee Compressed) pressure at installed) |engthiis.:..c..tr.ccesescesessseessrserees Valvessoniogbemcalinnitenrtssscsntctssct macs, tascncanes. sorte eee eee

37.5 mm (1.48 inch) 11.6 to 13.4 kg (25.9 to 29.6 Ibs) 1.9 mm (0.075 inch)

Cylinder block Bore diameter

SHETIG Fee Pets oes har rccucrieel cob terra aoa Soe Re SATEEN tec enbaaeee NFER ATU arereecrere erent eaanuceebeee acne eeeer Rear ter este mec ae meoe OPS IMSS SUAME) DOLMsc occnanescon seco soschdnonehebosenea satonaneenbassnbatmesooaneenns WOR EYE! OUCH OUNCE! LIME commoosccoscoononokocotesecenncennsceeatenanenedencocnasee

59.00 to 59.01 mm (2.3228 to 2.3232 inch) 59.15 mm (2.3288 inch) 40 mm (1.57 inch) from top of cylinder Not specified

Pistons Piston diameter

SLANG ANCL erememeene en eres erecta eect Nees ih sav ee a ee

58.940 to 58.955 mm (2.320 to 2.321 inch)

TEIRSTROV.CNSIZGyser eetresny stan seren cee Rees ci Acer eee ant iat Oe SCC OMNC NOV ENSIZE cercraee setae mecca teeceria nee eee DIENTEWEY IMEZSUIMME) [DOUAL crsccocccsocsoosceneconoseaeneronunrcemunodaoaessnoioaemanentae Piston-to-cylinder clearance

59.5 mm (2.343 inch) 60.0 mm (2.362 inch) 5.0 mm (0.197 inch) from bottom of skirt

ShielaTioCiera cnrae ee tort a eterna necro Ee Aenea tn Da VEOXUMM UM eeeemreattetires seeeteeac nese ce etvce fees ces ecseaceess arieaeh eae ee see

0.03 to 0.05 mm (0.0012 to 0.0020 inch) 0.10 mm (0.0039 inch)

Ring side clearance Top ring

OLE AiG aarmseatecoteaee setestany are rhe. ees era tatPer aee Ge ee MED iIMMUliiceancsstses sccuanvescoxsscuunvoueeumuceseadusiecrsyaeacee ened aeons

0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 inch) 0.10 mm (0.0039 inch)

Second ring

SSHIETATG EC Iocan tenoer anotoct ontuch Seon ecoererPe in onere nee eaen Peneeree A nioreeise NAFED dnl Talliseet eaen anon eens aantnaascaner sl Scinerer serbian tiaeetanera cece acecterace OIG ea See ante seen sSae a, Soest setenv devas seers s dasa ete ae

0.02 to 0.06 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 inch) 0.10 mm (0.0039 inch) Not specified

Chapter 2 SE

SS

STS

TPES

SSSR

ST

ST SP

Ring thickness Osan CGESSCOMG iM Sienuetemteecccer tse nee cea eee eee Oil ring (Spacer and rails) Ring end gap Top and second rings Oil ring Ring width Top and second rings Oil ring

SSS

SS

SS

SS

0.8 mm (0.0315 inch) 1.5 mm (0.0591 inch) 0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.0059 to 0.0118 inch) 0.2 to 0.6 mm (0.0079 to 0.0236 inch)

2.1 mm (0.0827 inch) 2.2 mm (0.0866 inch)

Crankshaft, connecting rods and bearings Main bearing oil clearance Standard

0.025 to 0.043 mm (0.0010

to 0.0017 inch)

0.08 mm (0.003 inch) Connecting rod side clearance

Standard Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Crankshaft runout limit

0.160 to 0.262 mm (0.0063 to 0.0103 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) 0.043 to 0.066 mm (0.0017 to 0.0026 inch) 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch)

Oil pump and relief valve HAN eCHLORONTeh FOLOn.ClEAAMGG keccunences coer aves sera csedemecseoneceancteescoasereneees OULEHROLO TO AOUSIMGNelSAKAMCO raceecseeenees soaescctreeteeneesecssercseeresesrceer: BV DaSS VAN GFSOLUMO PhOSSUNG wessasarasecorseet swore-cbenereexsenseesermerute atrteors Reler Valve OMe mney) PTOSSUNG scons seco e atone.ceccewecanneveaeatttsereeseeeeencre

0.03 0.03 0.76 4.47

to to to to

0.09 0.08 1.17 5.44

mm mm Bars Bars

(0.0012 to (0.0012 to (11 to 17 (64 to 78

0.0035 inch) 0.0031 inch) psi) psi)

Clutch and transmission Friction plate thickness SYP AVS(21S es ancora ac saan E CT ROR DO EERSER MDE CCR OC GO MEER OSEOREE BOTA AU Ud seer econ co ender a Orme ia ces ce cues aaron cn ce@areateuay es.wackeenraeentOcs SHC MOIALS HaIGKMEGSS eoseeeecacenrs cre cererre ct ecees cee Seuccan caneauseatoumerennenanes EC! ALS Wal DAG MINA Cece ccavase canercennes soicecess.cscccnene-Wenaceoreetborscrteee’ PUSHMOC OCIIGl MMi lee psec s cote sete c ncceaance carscesnccer vectra ccusdetur crarewsvar seewememrans Spring length BSLea Cl eee ce neece scene eres ee ctne cen as ra sewectinccn neuicver coserenesein see smresoataee WARN aMIRIicee cececomtcoercoe heceserees orcaaeeoeie es ances. cucnueresesse Men anenseen aancaee PAVeShate ang MmiainsShane LUNOUE NI tieccss..c.ceecacmeseteres seemsessvsersnen eaee

2.9 to 3.1 mm (0.1142 to 0.1220 inch) 2.8 mm (0.11 inch) 1.8 to 2.2 mm (0.072 to 0.085 inch)

0.1 mm (0.004 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) 33.5 mm (1.32 inch) 32.6 mm (1.28 inch)

0.08 mm (0.0031 inch)

Torque specifications Cam chain guide (intake side) Allen DOIts...........cc:cceeeeeteestereeenes Bedi C HAN SDIOSKEL DONS seeceresereceeesneteceree cecostar rensusterer seenieeeene Cam chain tensioner MOUNTING DOItS............ccccessseeetsenteeereenteteees i GanaehialhiecenSlOner Ca piOOl Ge rertuusseir-ccresooscsscurere--dieescras-mesecranee Camshaft bearing Cap BOIS .........cc.c0..scenesssersceseseeceentesrenononsancneeones eeseeeseeeeseeeeenes Cylinder block coolant passage PIUG SCFEWS........ Cylinder HEA NUtS.........cecceeccscessereceteseeseeterseeneetsesessssseseseseeseenseneees meceteteceenereereseenaatsne seaespendeteheramrnrtanesneas doasmiss ONG IHISOSS aint auaconabs0: (SI UEYS ApOGRVSIF LLG LED Aasso ntcaceoadanaed eee angneeee# nebeeodondoecupeancoumemscon” Clutch push lever SCrEW ........:ccecccescerectserteeteeneeesesteesnseeneseeseneenateaes Clutch pushrod adjuster |OCKNUt ........:ccccesereeeseresteeeeeeeeteeeeeente Clutch pressure plate DOlts .......:cccccceneteeeseeeeeesereeseerteeteeteeraeeees CONNE CHING rOd CAP NUS .......secceseeseeseeseeteetseteeteeseeeseeseeseeseeerneeneentes Crankcase bolts

tS}.

27kal ce sate cee ae scene oaeane sASSoP RAE Eanbe-PEOBEREEIEDAA nog capa: stoohd soa pouastaribcr

Crankcase StUCS tO CrANKCASE ........ccceeeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeneeeeeeeeenneeseanesennees

Engine mounting bolts Upper rear and lower fromt......cccceesecsereeseseterettetsessserereesnecees (WONWETE ITE tins opener sete cn fect oppsbood ako scripbonn senor ac ese Seasoneausnosopecdadcocc Frame downtube bolts

Oil Oil Oil Oil Oil Oil Oh Oil Oil

2-3

FZR600 engine, clutch and transmission EAE

baffle plate SCrEWS .........cccsccnsneetereensersesseseneeneractersetseeeneeseneenens COOler DANJO DOMtS...........scecescereereenerseeneenssesesneraetsarsseneenecasensente COO’ NOSE BONS ........ccccccecceceesevsoveoceseseesenncnoecvonsensarergraderenvavaren Cooler MOUNTING DOItS .........seceeeeseeteeneteeseeseeeetneratenesestecereneenes PAN MOUNTING BOIS ....... ese eeeesceseseensrarseetacsonersensecensneneets DASSAGES PIGS

dis

ee

12.3b

Unbolt the choke lever from the frame

...and this is an FZR1000

(this is an FZR600)...

12.4 Turn the lever around and disengage the cable from the pulley

12.5 Loosen the bracket screw and disengage the cable from the choke shaft

8 Lubricate the ends of the accelerator and decelerator cables with multi-purpose grease and connect them to the throttle pulleys at the carburetors and at the throttle grip. 9 Follow the procedure outlined in Chapter 1, Throttle operation/grip freeplay - check and adjustment, to adjust the cables. 10 Turn the handlebars back and forth to make sure the cables don’t cause the steering to bind. With the engine idling, turn the handlebars back and forth and make sure idle speed doesn’t change. If it does, find and fix the cause before riding the motorcycle. 11 Install the fuel tank.

the outer housing in the bracket enough that you can separate the cable from the bracket. Align the inner cable with the slot in the choke shaft bracket, then separate the cable end from the bracket (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Lubricate the pulley end of the choke cable with a film of multi-purpose grease.

13

Exhaust system - removal, EXUP inspection and installation

Removal 12

Choke cable - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.3a, 12.3b, 12.4 and 12.5

1 Remove the fuel tank (See Section 2). 2 Remove the left fairing panel (see Chapter 9). 3 Unbolt the choke lever from the frame (see illustrations). 4 Turn the choke lever around, align the cable with the slot in the pulley and disengage the cable (see illustration). 5 At the carburetor end of the cable, loosen the screw that secures

All except 1989-on FZR750 models Refer to illustrations 13.2a, 13.2b, 13.2c, 13.3, 13.4a, 13.4b and 13.4c 1 Remove the left and right fairings (see Chapter 9). 2 Remove the exhaust pipe holder nuts at the cylinder head and slide the holders off the mounting studs (see illustrations). 3 On EXUP-equipped models, disconnect the cables from the EXUP servo motor (see illustration). This will eliminate the need to adjust the cables. 4 Remove the mounting bolt beneath the engine and detach the

Chapter 5

13.2a 71 2 3. 4 5 6 7 8

Fuel and exhaust systems

5-25

Exhaust system details (except 1989-on FZR750 models)

Exhaust pipes Gaskets EXUP shaft bushings* Grease sea/* Gasket* EXUP valve* Valve housing” Cable bracket*

| , Pe PBRe MOve NS NE

9 EXUP cables* 10 + Washer* 71. ~—~Pulley* 12 EXUP valve cover" 13 Muffler gasket 14 =~Muffler *Not used on US 49-state models or UK FZR600 models.

13.2c a*

...and slide the retainers off the studs

13.3 The EXUP cables can be disconnected from the servo motor without changing the adjustment

5-26

13.4a

Chapter 5

Remove the mounting bolt (this is an FZR600)...

13.7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

13.4b

Fuel and exhaust systems

...and this is an FZR1000

Exhaust system (1989-on FZR750 models)

Muffler/silencer EXUP cable EXUP cable Muffler/silencer clamp Gasket EXUP valves Exhaust flanges Pulley cover

9 10 11. 12 13 14 15 16

Pulley Timing gear cover Timing gears ~Valve shafts Bushings +~Valve case Spring Exhaust pipe

13.4c

Unbolt the muffler bracket

Chapter 5

Fuel and exhaust systems

13.23

5-27

The notch should be aligned with the hole (1)

EXUP inspection 13.21

All except 1989-on FZR750 models

Remove the bolts (arrows) and take off the cover

13

Twist the shaft and check its movement (see illustration 13.2a).

If it sticks, remove the cover and lubricate the ends of the shaft and the

muffler/silencer from the bracket near the right rear footpeg (see illustrations). Lower the pipes and muffler/silencer away from the bike and

take them out. 5 If necessary, loosen the clamp bolts and separate the muffler/silencer from the pipes.

1989-on FZR750 models Refer to illustration 13.7 6 Remove the left and right fairings (see Chapter 9). Loosen the locknuts on the EXUP cables all the way and turn the 7 adjusters in as far as they will go. Remove the EXUP pulley cover and disconnect the cables, then remove

the washer and the EXUP

cable

holder (see illustration). Unhook the springs that secure the exhaust pipes to the exhaust 8 flanges at the cylinder head. Remove the exhaust pipe gaskets, exhaust flanges and flange S gaskets. Unhook the springs that secure the exhaust pipes to the valve 10 case. Label the pipes for reinstallation, then disconnect the pipes. Remove the mounting bolts for the rear exhaust pipe and muf41. fler/silencer. Take the exhaust system out. If necessary, loosen the clamp and disconnect the muffler from 12 the rear pipe. Detach the rear pipe and gasket from the EXUP valve

case.

bushings with molybdenum place the valve.

disulfide grease. If that doesn’t help, re-

1989-on FZR750 models 14 Remove the timing gear cover from the valve. Note the position of the match marks on the timing gears; they should be aligned when both valves are closed. 145 Note which side of the shafts the valves are attached to, then remove the valves (see illustration 13.7). 146 Remove the spring, then remove the circlip, washer, lower valve shaft and the remaining washer. 17 Remove the circlip from the upper valve shaft, then remove the washer, shaft and remaining washer. 18 If the shafts or timing gears are worn or damaged, remove the gears from the shafts. Check the bushings in the valve and all removed parts for wear or 19 damage and replace any parts with visible defects. 20 Assembly is the reverse of the disassembly steps, with the following additions: a) Lubricate the bushings, shafts and washers with molybdenum disulfide grease. b) If the timing gears were removed, install them with their toothed sides facing in the same direction as the valve attachment surfaces on the shafts. c) Be sure the match marks on the timing gears are aligned when the valves are closed.

EXUP cable adjustment Refer to illustrations 13.21, 13.23, 13.24 and 13.26 21 Remove the cover from the EXUP valve (see illustration). 22 Turn the ignition switch to On. If the EXUP servo motor doesn’t operate, refer further diagnosis to a Yamaha dealer.

Check the alignment marks (see illustration). If they're aligned, 23 no further adjustment is necessary. If they aren’t aligned, adjust the cables (see below). Loosen the cable adjuster locknuts and turn the adjuster in (see 24

illustration). Insert a 4 mm (0.16 inch) alignment pin through the pulley

and into the hole. Turn the adjusters counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) just enough 25 to eliminate free-play in the cables, then turn them clockwise one half turn and tighten the locknuts. Remove the alignment pin and turn off the ignition switch. Turn 26 the pulley on the EXUP servo motor (see illustration) clockwise by hand until it stops, then turn on the ignition switch again. The EXUP

pulley should move back to the aligned position. If it doesn’t, try read-

43.24

rs Loosen the locknuts (arrows) and turn the adjuste

justing it. If that doesn’t work, refer further service to a Yamaha dealer.

Chapter 5

5-28

Fuel and exhaust systems

13.26 Turn the servo motor pulley clockwise until it stops

Installation Refer to illustration 13.27 27 Installation is the reverse of removal, with the following additions: a) Use new gaskets at the cylinder head (see illustration). b) Tighten all fasteners to the torque settings listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 14

Fuel pump - circuit check and fuel pump test

1 With the engine kill switch in the On position, the fuel pump should start and run for approximately five seconds after the ignition is switched on. It should shut off once the carburetor float bowls are full, then run again once the engine is started. 2 The fuel pump circuit consists of the pump, the pump relay, the digital igniter unit (which controls the fuel pump as well as ignition timing), the engine kill switch, the ignition switch, the main and ignition

14.9 Connect a voltmeter to the relay connector

fuses, the battery and related wiring.

1

3 and 4 side and 5

2 3

If you’re working on an FZR600, remove the seat, fuel tank cover fuel tank (see Chapter 9 and Section 2). If you’re working on a 1987 or 1988 model, remove the seat, left cover, fuel tank and air filter housing (see Chapter 9, Section 2 Section 4). If you’re working on a 1989 or later FZR750R model, remove the

upper and lower fairing panels, fresh air duct, inner panels, seat, fuel

tank and air filter housing (see Chapter 9, Section 2 and Section 4). 6

If you’re working on a 1989 or later FZR1000,

remove the seat,

4

Relay connector Voltmeter positive lead Red/white wire terminal

Voltmeter negative lead (to ground/earth)

b) If the reading is at least 12 volts, the wiring is good. If the pump won't run with the engine running, go to Step 11. If the pump

won’t run for five seconds with the ignition switch On and the kill switch in Run, go to Step 12. Connect a short length of wire between the blue/black wire termi-

fuel tank, left side cover and air filter housing (see Chapter 9, Section 2 and Section 4).

11. nal and the red/white wire terminal in the harness side of the relay connector (see illustration). With the ignition switch On and the kill switch

All models

in Run, the fuel pump should run.

7 8 gine then

Check the Check the kill switch try the fuel

battery condition and charge (see Chapter 1). main and ignition fuses, the ignition switch and the en(see Chapter 10). Replace them if they’re defective, pump again.

1987 and 1988 models Pump won’t run Refer to illustrations 14.9, 14.11 and 14.12 9 If the pump won't run while the engine is running, or if it won’t run for five seconds with the ignition switch On and the kill switch in Run, check battery voltage to the pump. Disconnect the electrical connector

at the relay and connect a 20-volt DC voltmeter between the red/white wire terminal in the harness and a good grounding/earthing point (bare

a) Ifthe fuel pump won't run, test it (see below). b) If the fuel pump now runs, check the wiring and connections in the fuel pump circuit. If they’re good, the fuel pump relay is probably defective. Replace it. 12 Reconnect the connector to the fuel pump relay. Insert the voltmeter positive probe into the back of the blue/black wire connector and connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground/earth (bare metal on the motorcycle) (see illustration). With the ignition switch On and the kill switch in Run, the voltmeter should indicate at least 11 volts. a) If voltage is less than 11 volts, the fuel pump relay is probably defective. Replace it. b) If voltage is 11 volts or more, check the wiring and connections in the fuel pump circuit. If they’re good, the fuel pump is probably defective. Test it (see below).

metal on the motorcycle frame) (see illustration).

10 Turn the ignition switch to On and the engine kill switch to Run. The voltmeter should indicate at least 12 volts. a) If the reading is less than 12 volts, check the wiring in the fuel pump circuit for breaks or bad connections. Be sure to check the battery terminal connections and the battery ground/earth cable connection to the motorcycle.

Pump won’t shut off after 30 seconds 13 Perform Steps 7 and 8 and Step 12 above. a) If voltage is less than 11 volts in Step 12, the digital igniter is probably defective. Since it’s an expensive part that can’t be re-

turned once purchased, consider having a Yamaha dealer verify your test results before replacing the igniter.

Chapter 5

Fuel and exhaust systems

5-29

R/W

14.11

14.12

Connect a jumper wire between the blue/black and red/white wire terminals

Relay connector Voltmeter positive lead

Connector Blue/black wire terminal Red/white wire terminal KR OhMDms Jumper

14.15a —

2

3.

Connect a voltmeter to the relay connector

Blue/black wire terminal negative lead (to ground/earth)

Voltmeter KRONM-

wire

Connect a battery and ohmmeter to the relay connector

Blue/black terminal (ohmmeter positive lead) Red/white terminal (ohmmeter negative lead and wire from battery positive terminal) Blue/red terminal (wire from battery negative terminal)

14.15b 1 2 3

4

Connect a battery and ohmmeter to the relay connector

Ohmmeter Ohmmeter Wire from Wire from

positive lead (to red/white) negative lead (to blue/black) battery positive terminal (to blue/white) battery negative terminal (to blue/red)

15 Disconnect the wiring connector from the fuel pump relay (see illustrations). Connect a 12-volt battery and an ohmmeter to the relay terminals shown. If the ohmmeter shows continuity, the relay is good. If not, replace the relay. 16 Ifthe relay is good, test the fuel pump (See Step 17).

Fuel pump test (all models) 17. Disconnect the wiring connector from the fuel pump. Connect the pump directly to the battery with two lengths of wire (positive to blue/black; negative to black). If the pump doesn’t run, replace it.

ne

o)

slide the 15.3a The FZR600 fuel pump is mounted on the tank; the hoses and clamps (lower arrows) along the hoses, disconnect arrows) remove the mounting nuts from the studs (upper

the wiring and conb) If voltage is 11 volts or more in Step 10, check the fuel pump good, they're If circuit. pump fuel the nections in relay is probably defective. Replace it.

1989-on models Refer to illustrations 14.15a and 14.15b

14

Perform Steps 8 and 9 above.

15

Fuel pump and relay - replacement

Fuel pump relay replacement 1 Disconnect the wiring connector from the relay. Remove the relay from its mounting bracket, install a new one and 2 reconnect the wiring connector.

Fuel pump replacement All except 1989-on FZR750R models Refer to illustrations 15.3a and 15.3b Squeeze the fuel line clamps and push the ends of the fuel lines 3. off the pump fittings (see illustrations).

5

5-30

Chapter 5

4 Disconnect the pump wiring connector. nuts or bolts and take the pump out.

5

Fuel and exhaust systems

Remove the mounting

Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Connect the fuel

lines and wiring connector.

1989-on FZR750R

models

6 Remove and drain the fuel tank (See Section 2). 7 Remove the pump mounting screws, then lower the pump and gasket out of the tank (see illustration 2.23). 8 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

16

Air induction system (California FZR600 models) - inspection

and component replacement Refer to illustrations 16.1, 16.3a, 16.3b, 16.3c, 16.3d and 16.5

1_

The air induction system uses exhaust gas pulses to suck fresh

air into the exhaust ports, where it mixes with hot combustion gases.

The additional oxygen provided by the fresh air allows combustion to continue for a longer time, reducing unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust (see illustration). Reed valves allow the flow of air into the ports and prevent exhaust gas from flowing into the system. The air cut valve shuts off the flow of air into the system during deceleration to prevent backfiring. 2. Check the hoses for loose connections, damage and deterioration. Tighten or replace loose or damaged hoses. 3 To replace system components, unbolt the system mounting plate from the frame (see illustration). Disconnect the air hose and the metal tubes (see illustrations), then take the assembly off the motorcycle (see illustration).

16.1

1 2

Reed valve assembly Air filter housing

15.3b The FZR1000 fuel pump is mounted on the frame; slide the clamps (lower arrow) along the hose, then disconnect the lower hose and the upper hose (upper arrow)

4 To replace the air cut valve, remove the retaining clip screw and disconnect the hoses. 5 To replace reed valves, remove the mounting bolts and disconnect the hoses (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

Air induction system details

3 A

Air cut valve Tocylinders

B_ C

Tono. 3 cylinder Tono. 4 cylinder

Chapter 5

16.3a

16.3c

Fuel and exhaust systems

Unbolt the reed valve assembly...

...and the air induction tubes...

16.3b

16.3d

5-31

... disconnect the air intake hose...

...and take the reed valve assembly off

Fuel tank

Rollover

46.5

To remove a reed valve from the assembly, disconnect the

hoses and remove the Allen bolts (arrows)

NN Evaporation control system (California models) - inspection 17. and canister replacement

NN

Refer to illustrations 17.1a, 17.1b, 17.3a and 17.3b The evaporation control system used on California models prevents 1

fuel vapor from escaping into the atmosphere. When the engine isn’t combusrunning, the vapor is stored in a canister, then routed into the ons). tion chambers for burning when the engine starts (see illustrati

Canister

17.1a Evaporation control system details (FZR600 models)

5-32

Chapter 5

Fuel and exhaust systems

17.1b

Evaporation control system details (FZR1000 models)

Carburetor Canister To atmosphere To carburetor Side view wWMYHNrA DEABottom

».,

17.3a

ANODE

TEE

3

‘

“it

Sf

view

ei

To remove the canister, disconnect the hoses and remove the mounting bolts (this is an FZR600). . .

2 The hoses should be checked periodically for loose connections, damage and deterioration. Tighten or replace the hoses as needed.

3 To remove the canister, remove the seat and fuel tank (see Chapter 9 and Section 2). Disconnect the hoses and remove the mounting

17.3b... and this is an FZR1000

bolts (see illustrations). 4 Inspect the rubber mounting bushings and replace them if they’re cracked or deteriorated. Bolt the canister to its bracket and reconnect

the hoses.

Chapter 6

ignition system

Contents

Section

Section 1 5 3

2 Ignition system = CHECK sssccsersssss.e-ac-cneeeneeceeeredeeaseeceeeseer-henen=mreirar= 4 Pickup coils - check, removal and installation... seeeee eat>= See Chapter 1 esses Spat plUGSs!replaGemenm Uresee-atereserreeee

General information........... coveervseenveeereneceveceescennnecannatennceasansensass cc. fic--teeceenescwcsisessancsaceen Igniter - check, removal and Installationics Ignition coils - check, removal and installation ............cccesceeeeees

Specifications a

Ignition Coil PHIMALry TESISTANGCE...........:..2-.c-corecssecnecearceesecntenece etrens Ignition coil secondary resistance

Allexcept 1987 and 1988 UK FZRIO00 ee. ere ceseccescecsctees:ANSTEY Bunyel Webstent GF SILO]O)0) ont na a2 saceceesnosencoebomsoutcee cock douruocaats Spark plug Cap reSiStanCe.............ccsscessceseenersseeeseretseteeaeneeneeeseenees {IgChCLS Ee Come eee caeeee eee ee aee ee a eames tree cccnescasar saree BSE PICKUP GCOil FESISTANCE............:seeceecenseeneeereetreeneeentresssasneeseresensensenees PPYAREIONA LUDAAGleer ener scce sev eeesncanevernecesecens-eenethereorn-t-sczartecerazerernceste re rea grat nee yma seen cunsersenseeaerranensare Me BLClSoe ee BSSve

1.8 to 2.2 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 9,600 to 14,400 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 10,800 to 13,200 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 9,000 to 11,000 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F)

6 mm (1/4 inch) 135 to 165 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) Not adjustable See Chapter 1

EE

1

General information

2

Ignition system - check

a This motorcycle is equipped with a battery operated, fully transistorized, breakerless ignition system. The system consists of the following components: Pickup coil Igniter unit Battery and fuse Ignition coils Spark plugs Ignition (main) and engine kill (stop) switches Primary and secondary circuit wiring principle The transistorized ignition system functions on the same unit and igniter as a breaker point DC ignition system with the pickup points and performing the tasks previously associated with the breaker

maintenance mechanical advance system. As a result, adjustment and

n of spark plug of ignition components is eliminated (with the exceptio replacement). pickup coil. All models use a digital microprocessor and a single primary coil ignition s increase also system ocessor The digital micropr and controls current during starting, prevents excessive engine speed

the electric fuel pump. components Because of their nature, the individual ignition system troubles occur, and system ignition If . repaired not but d checke be can for the problem is the faulty component can be isolated, the only cure

that most electrical to replace the part with a new one. Keep in mind unnecessary exavoid To d. returne be can’t ed, parts, once purchas been positively idenpense, make very sure the faulty component has tified before buying a replacement part.

Refer to illustration 2.14 Warning: Because of the very high voltage generated by the ignition system, extreme care should be taken when these checks are performed. 1 If the ignition system is the suspected cause of poor engine performance or failure to start, a number of checks can be made to isolate the problem. 2 Make sure the engine kill switch is in the Run position.

Engine will not start Disconnect one of the spark plug wires, connect the wire to a 3 spare spark plug and lay the plug on the engine with the threads contacting the engine. If necessary, hold the spark plug with an insulated tool. Crank the engine over and make sure a well-defined, blue spark occurs between the spark plug electrodes. Warning: Don’t remove one of the spark plugs from the engine to perform this check - atomized fuel being pumped out of the open spark plug hole could ignite,

causing severe injury! 4

If no spark occurs, the following checks should be made:

Unscrew a spark plug cap from a plug wire and check the cap re5 sistance with an ohmmeter. If the resistance exceeds Specifications, replace it with a new one. Repeat this check on the remaining plug

caps. Make sure all electrical connectors are clean and tight. Check all 6 wires for shorts, opens and correct installation. Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter and - on models 7

equipped with batteries having removable filler caps - check the spe-

Chapter 6

Ignition system

3.4 To test the coil primary resistance, connect the ohmmeter leads between the primary terminals in the coil connector

Coils Gray wire terminal (cylinders 2 and 3) Red/white wire terminal (cylinders 2 and 3) Orange wire terminal (cylinders 1 and 4)

2.14 A simple spark gap testing fixture can be made from a block of wood, a large alligator clip, two nails,

a screw and a piece of wire

Red/white ©OMYm_— QAR

wire terminal (cylinders 1 and 4)

cific gravity with a hydrometer (see Chapter 1). If the voltage is less than 12-volts or if the specific gravity is low, recharge the battery. 8 Check the ignition fuse and the fuse connections. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one; if the connections are loose or corroded, clean or repair them.

9 Refer to Chapter 10 and check the ignition switch, engine kill switch, neutral switch and sidestand switch. 10 Refer to Section 3 and check the ignition coil primary and secondary resistance. 11. Refer to Section 4 and check the pickup coil resistance. 12 On 1989 and later models, disconnect the electrical connector from the relay assembly behind the left side cover (FZR600 and 1000) or under the seat (FZR750). Connect an ohmmeter as follows: sy Positive lead to relay assembly terminal pin that connects to blueyellow wire; & Negative lead to relay assembly terminal pin that connects to sky blue wire. The ohmmeter should indicate continuity (little or no resistance). Switch the ohmmeter leads; it should now indicate very high or infinite resistance. If the readings aren’t as described, the diode is bad and the relay assembly will have to be replaced. Before you buy this non-returnable part, have the ignition system tested by a Yamaha dealer or other qualified technician. Note: /f the preceding checks produce positive results but there is still no spark at the plug, the igniter may be at

fault. Have the ignition system tested by a Yamaha dealer or other qualified technician.

3.6 To test the coil secondary resistance, connect the ohmmeter between the spark plug wires

71 2

3

Coil Spark plug wires

Ignition coils - check, removal and installation

Check Engine starts but misfires 13 If the engine starts but misfires, make the following checks before deciding that the ignition system is at fault. 14 The ignition system must be able to produce a spark across a six millimeter (1/4-inch) gap (minimum). A simple test fixture (see illustration) can be constructed to make sure the minimum spark gap can be jumped. Make sure the fixture electrodes are positioned six millimeters apart.

15 Connect one of the spark plug wires to the protruding test fixture electrode, then attach the fixture’s alligator clip to a good engine ground/earth. 16 Crank the engine over (it will probably start and run on the remaining cylinders) and see if well-defined, blue sparks occur between the test fixture electrodes. If the minimum spark gap test is positive, the ignition coil for that cylinder (and its companion cylinder) is functioning properly. Repeat the check on one of the spark plug wires that is connected to the other coil. If the spark will not jump the gap during either test, or if it is weak (orange colored), refer to steps 5 through 11 of this Section and perform the component checks described.

Refer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.6 1 In order to determine conclusively that the ignition coils are defective, they should be tested by an authorized Yamaha dealer service department which is equipped with the special electrical tester required for this check. 2 However, the coils can be checked visually (for cracks and other damage) and the primary and secondary coil resistances can be measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils are undamaged, and if the resistances are as specified, they are probably capable of proper operation. 3 To check the coils for physical damage, they must be removed (see Step 9). To check the resistances, simply remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 5), unplug the primary circuit electrical connectors from the coil(s) and remove the spark plug wires from the plugs that are connected to the coil being checked. Mark the locations of all wires before disconnecting them. 4 To check the coil primary resistance, attach one ohmmeter lead to one of the primary terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to the other primary terminal in the connector (see illustration). 5 Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the Rx1 position and

Chapter 6

Ignition system

A

3.11

me.

:

= ‘S.,

On FZR600 models with bracket-mounted coils, remove the bracket bolt (upper arrow); remove the coil mounting bolt

(lower arrow) to separate the coils from the bracket

ES

3.12a

On later FZR1000 models, unbolt the coil bracket...

3.12b

... lift the bracket out of the frame together with the coils ...

wire terminals (see illustration). 7 Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the Rx100 position and compare the measured resistance to the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 8 If the resistances are not as specified, the coil is probably defective and should be replaced with a new one.

Removal and installation Refer to illustrations 3.9, 3.11, 3.12a, 3.12b and 3.12c

Be eto. _. and detach the coil(s) from the bracket

9 Toremove the coils, refer to Chapter 5 and remove the fuel tank, then disconnect the spark plug wires from the plugs. Remove the coil cover (if equipped). After labeling them with tape to aid in reinstallation, unplug the coil primary circuit electrical connectors (see illustration). 10 If you’re working on a model with separately mounted coils, remove the coil mounting bolt and take the coil out. 11 If you’re working on an FZR600 with bracket-mounted coils, unbolt the bracket and remove it from the frame (see illustration). Remove the coil mounting bolt and take the coil(s) off the bracket. 12 lf the coils are bracket-mounted, support the coils with one hand and remove

Chapter’s compare the measured resistance to the value listed in this Specifications.

6

If the coil primary resistance is as specified, check the coil sec-

the meter ondary resistance. Remove the spark plug caps, disconnect

plug leads from the primary terminals and attach them to the spark

the coil bracket mounting

bolt, then withdraw

the coil

bracket (see illustrations). Unbolt the individual coil(s) from the bracket (see illustration). 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the primary circuit electrical connectors are attached to the proper terminals and the plug wires to the correct plugs.

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529 mm (20.84 inches) 524 mm (20.63 inches) 434 cc (14.7 US fl oz, 15.31 Imp fl oz)

138 mm (5.43 inches) below top of inner fork tube 1 mm (0.004 inch) Full counterclockwise (anti-clockwise)

Position 6 Full clockwise Setting 1 Setting 2 Setting 4 157 mm (6.2 inches) 175 mm (6.9 inches) 180 mm (7.1 inches)

Zero 5 clicks out 10 clicks out

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367 mm (5.12 inches) 363 mm (14.3 inches) 437 cc (14.8 US fl oz, 15.4 Imp fl oz) 131 mm (5.16 inches) below top of inner fork tube 1 mm (0.004 inch)

Groove 1 Groove 6 Groove9 Fully turned in 8 clicks out from full-in 10 clicks out from full-in

Fully turned in 8 clicks out from full-in 10 clicks out from full-in Groove 1 Groove 5 15 mm (0.6 inch) on scale Zero mm (zero inch) on scale Fully turned in 12 clicks out 23 clicks out Fully turned in

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533 mm (20.98 inches) 528 mm (20.79 inches) 425 cc (14.4 US fl oz, 15.0 Imp fl oz)

143 mm (5.63 inches) below top of inner fork tube 1 mm (0.004 inch) Groove 1 Groove 5 Groove 7

Chapter 7 SSE

SS

cS

SSS

SSS

Frame, suspension and final driv SESS

SS

RT

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FZR1000 (1989) Fork spring length Fea Cla Clee teeter seer cates accehhe, a, eat

Alt andsaunts oe MARTONTce s tes cess ceGaocraecern cee anemeee een Retr Penn ee ee ge ee BORGO Capacityi TUllyiGOMpPTeSSC) eecavoserc-ecesacseaccnrsessteree seers ; RBOMCOUNEVElTUNYNGOMPrESSEG) ce.e.ceetrescmoseecy-oxaivdeedeerexeeeamtossesers Swingarm end play and side play limits .............cccccesseesenseeeeneeeeees Front fork preload adjustment IVLeRxAIi Uli eemeereeene te cee re eee ee ee aan A nbn aataomchteranantaecdaaaee botyaden eee ASECAC A Clk taee nena ee tee eee cas cde a As Ea ain chconc sentuieancosdace™ BVI ETTRT NIT Deere eee ene ea ety eee fos eal icone vaba hase susaees athena Rear spring preload adjustment length IVTEN a aera eee eves aee reds Luan chceans mae scene ea neeenr anteater sete SHEZV TISFENG (oo) yn is EER ee Re Ree eeeRE arene ences ATFATIA PRAM epee ce eeh oa eens Oe ils Saputan Lacie oavesleveuet eaanvarvenacsuenataatamrttee Rear shock damping adjustment IVA TIM ARMIeeeetten sbea se cates wea ynaieh outages Sdocincaesedereateush iy maven eeeee ROU AGIANGI see reece canoe chccon tone achee ves an ceevagteapatv utah yscsoncndh Anocneaaeaeeaes RUTTEN ee oso eee cece ce ece Sa venc vs anutvaers cpndekntinatvessersvueualeivancetieneemenes Recommended suspension settings With rider only Ei Op Bee erect oes otc cee cee cca secen ex var espns thavo vac oetuaivGssac dene reeseageeneeeea ESATA cetera «ck tech weap cia adiesmupasesevaacer cetmameemeneses FRG ele IMG eeece coc ees eee ee o- nee shore pte ceeere ser ancesncsiesssunrappeecoreacnes With passenger OR accessories and equipment Erie seat ees eee eee creates utr uy sm soecinrs sae vacacsnapvecmanine sensemecnen

AGA Ia Cl OGL caeceeen reece ex ctreced eas tectauacnanarones ose camessserestemeneeetae BUST CEMA TOI R16[cron sep cces ae 9a.Beene 8 so eoa Roonag ee ocreepeeceasos se eunaed With passenger AND accessories and equipment FACELALee seca nann apne cee Dac ne nacene go dos seda- heb Aeo Loser banueocucdragde:ssccaased [RYSHsIr OlrS 6 (615 A oa stceccen soece aeosee a6 ssnnoban oddoacapensoageeaayocconueoye [SESYe| (eet TEI ATG|cceonnnos een anacec soc eodcon see sentan ioe rondo-nncod lense Sa- canta er

SS

SSSA

SR

ACSA

A

7-3 SS

20.5 mm (0.81 inch) 14.5 mm (0.57 inch) 12.5 mm (0.49 inch)

Groove 4 to 7 12.5 to 16.5 mm (0.49 to 0.65 inch) Groove 2 to 5 14.5 to 18.5 mm

(0.57 to 0.73 inch)

Groove 1 to 4 16.5 to 20.5 mm (0.65 to 0.81 inch)

321.3 mm (12.6 inches) 318 mm (12.5 inches) 535 cc (18.1 US fl oz, 18.9 Imp fl oz) 116 mm (4.57 inches) below top of inner fork tube 1 mm (0.004 inch)

4 (fully turned in) 1

47.5 mm (1.87 inch) 40.5 mm (1.59 inch) 37.5 mm (1.87 inch) Zero (fully turned in) 7 clicks out 9 clicks out

1 or 2 37.5 to 42.5 mm (1.48 to 1.67 inch) 5 to 9 clicks out

2 Of 3 40 to 45 mm (1.57 to 1.77 inch) 4 to 7 clicks out 3 or4 42.5 to 47.5 mm (1.57 to 1.77 inch) 3 to 6 clicks out

FZR1000 (1990-on) Fork spring length

1990 se cheronn oe soe eouoeeeouc aon uene cerHot Apsbeeod peop ead pocopacnonnedneear TGPaO STA TERTUTAT coo uc tet cececnce scope deenecocean one casita oaoceaaeasannadaescosantoda" INVER 1991-on SraMCA Clineremareenee sees ira sractanacesrreresnerttaacsurroreac-sAcarseneatengea acer ooer-buueac ou-tLosarenclaseecaponmseadoncac ROTULAI cee cneoncenochesecencielen NAFTAY Fork oil capacity

IOVS) oe secs mec near ace paC ood aeo uEEB ar eR RDBED Heo aceBOLE DDC aaa =p sue BhOGRDOLOE 5 NEYO RST A sec x cee sos ac ancopeonnoeresea eb saper HSE NnEap derpaper aBooo apap eesoLO unary Fork oil level (fully compressed) FISSION essed co secocnencther snerbodee boosusbeebe neon idoaasos4 acer 7ccan nace nengniyobuocsuaade pode SOI Tee Yaese nok cca setege dane nev deere on codtHe naNeuoBeponennatlo-eracnccaapnSaccanenouog

Swingarm end play and side play limits... Front fork preload adjustment

Maximum (Nardest)..........cecececeeneneeteeessssseserseneeeneenernenennericess aconspcanuenodjuondoura TALC ERG loseoscecenen-cnsanesncenen-dunbaacennceesooubcopar=zijnacaAbo Minimum (Softest).......cccccereeerscteeteeeteesesseessessessecesecnereenetaeeess Rear spring preload adjustment length

sier saeosAGhAngero0 onseunena darasodste auecunuaceoreadgs TIFALUTI secacouacoscioscnsseannerip IMIS osebar nbedepspocdveneaaso dsogo08qb aconleders/auaGo0"baezo FEN |sasacancehnandeinepdenepeqa GiFeTAYG pd Jnonsen ybaenbageeenadde: genoegoneaKabecactnqneanco IMR RTTRRLU fflscioocoseneesacnersnaoesdocencer

321.3 mm (12.6 inches) 318 mm (12.5 inches)

331.5 mm (13.1 inches) 328 mm (12.9 inches) 535 cc (18.1 US fl oz, 18.9 Imp fl oz) 462\cc (15.6)US fl oz, 1623 Impiflez:

116 mm (4.57 inches) below top of inner fork tube 124 mm (4.88 inches) below top of inner fork tube

1 mm (0.004 inch) Groove 1 Groove 5 Groove 7

47.5 mm (1.87 inch) 40.5 mm (1.59 inch) 37.5 mm (1.87 inch)

SS

SE FEES EES SS ESTEE

7-4 a

a

Chapter 7 Frame, suspension and final drive ES SNE Ee ce a a a es ae SSS cee Se

FZR1000 (1990-on) continued Rear shock damping adjustment FER TRAIOaiBacccecnacncnceesurescrepcoccancncr ceesece eerdeb ki neLodccrmeoncrsoncencirtinteet BSI LALe (2[He becpesearncep cr cronserr conenccencc Re RSTEE ort CRED IC ririntincr or pseroecreeponGe se VATA GAG feces erdenteenecattae caterer secencccnscreocees se nonacenckecccne. seni snoanodeecua

Recommended suspension settings With rider only PIAS |b ker ecee Sencar nine caesuboa sae cet eariee sremcocetooacterr come pecnandinatccn ALerel fy8)REO TE9|ch sacsancensactioseaaacadhciaso orocasaciondacsane aaaAhoseooctadeusentioae

FEAR CAMPING Beetcceseces cet anccecchesducectrvnecur corescs voncactmueaccrerset acer With passenger OR accessories and equipment FROMM bas.ctercerecectserstra ren. casts opera sicsweiesctei scien osutacsustan yeas onaenteetins Rearoreload Rrenanettretirr secs ate tencr saeneondaecuni wat ack cwatadaceertys ReatgcampinG ntsc aees-ceeerirs cass mercer ssecttieerereeecenr cess:

With passenger AND accessories and equipment Eero tilismensacneeee scheme eee eee tenconse te sateen San cac secur avxsuusvasor et creownaceeys ReatgorelOaditamsarse.ce

ai cotectisaes: udccieeccnstsy namie Mlomke eaeecueesseie

atevele Celetn)@lLal® asececocasscesatnounecioe Ceeesaae sererrerrpees acer apenceecochee een

Zero (full in) 7 clicks out 9 clicks out

Groove 4 to 7 37.5 to 42.5 mm (1.48 to 1.67 inch)

5 to 9 clicks out Groove 2 to 5 40 to 45 mm (1.57 to 1.77 inch) 4 to 7 clicks out

Groove 1 to 4 42.5 to 47.5 mm (1.57 to 1.77 inch)

3 to 6 clicks out

Torque specifications FZR600 ROOLDEO SiO: RAGKe Teti eee tat ce screen cracc cone. sar teax tanita smeticeetenececim ares masaaas FOOTDEOIDNACKEH TO ihalne :sewastesesier coe neausce ecceceeneh oecaceaene reeeeeear Frame downtubes to frame [COIR os. ctasoncadoscencaddianqutoodh aaerabnos ereaeBEEPHse Once RCEEE PEEa eer EE orecstre ASP so ooddeccicaan era a chao SEE Onde COREE PEED SEE CEE SESE EOE EPL ER tee noe Rear frame section to frame Wie pemboltss(MilO)yeresseeeecce eres cerecemececetatscce coun asa toeteeee eee

IEOW CigOO]LSUMi2) Secret eeescese tan cate de vecestcentycescsscasace Cerscerrecetne es Front forks WaPMOOlOit Ohler sere eee Fe tesss cee senea ced owe ee ot soeee anc ac aero ete DE YRRTSYETe,[EXs blBY)|esssocetogtogaeuer deeasedeoden escorse- Bool done + Rene NSARASRN AS Renee, Handlebars and steering stem | ENACNS) OFIrHO) LeSRSS NIETA)1OVOIES ara nncossoaedoonnsonoce: boaobenaccconenocéndssonecdt Handlebar boss to fork tube pinch bolts..............2::ccsecscseecseeees HOW clathiPlexclaimDi OlLSsemetenernceycetnetoe waetieneahcecrer dsccee seen WySiOXEIT WHOS GEIR O TOTNES cocose.scnoapseorecocectiqgonoppsccganoasséaouAnshdcbheonnds SLOCHIMORSLSMMM IU bermeeeeees swecccscsecmeare coset ees nest rs.udes sy scecuee mere SAD) WEIS| HWS) MENLO ELCE frocc ncrooenoosnobecocsuosbennsonroocecéansepnannsencrnen REdESTOCKiaOSOnOCEPIVOUOOILS/MULS tase enrenernintascerenteate teresa seer Rear suspension linkage

[RUSIENY GSU WOM IRE TINS caer encontreogre ceo neac op noncacea une scacae sooo saeco ebeacearEce ECMOOStOMela yale races reese ceeetcee ooo cacesaa eee eaeeeeee eee HISTO CSstOMtenle mermeen tee cecs sfenece Nesmaa eee ree Sere eke hrs dae Cees SHWMAMG ENA) (OVCTE SIMI RW Eaescceaccna sneseoaconanonccnanesnnaecesnchcecnacanenanpenanbiose DAME CEU WEI SOUS ME scotococosnocsunccenchnansansenenaeenehcenbannbentnsaeacetoone DriVEcchall Meal SOLOCKCts aemenetere teen ares fens steers eee a ENGNG SOMOSWE COW INOW: soccecocaneoqnodneonasanbhonsanaenecémeenncnensrensconnese

55 Nm (40 ft-lbs) 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)

60 Nm (43 ft-lbs) 33 Nm (24 ft-lbs) 64 Nm (46 ft-lbs)

88 Nm (64 ft-lbs) Not specified 40 Nm (29 ft-lbs)*

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) 13 Nm 9.5 ft-lbs) 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs) 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) 40 Nm (29 ft-lbs)

40 40 40 90

Nm Nm Nm Nm

(29 (29 (29 (65

ft-lbs) ft-lbs) ft-lbs) ft-lbs) 60 Nm (48 ft-lbs) 32 Nm (23 ft-lbs) 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

FZR750 (1987 and 1988) FOOLDEG Sat ONDNAaCKCte sre stores rcestete oes ce keane eee eee PURO CLOW SYEI6) [DVFEVCIS HO TIBIAE ce scocanatocansosronnonnsancosnoonfosrecceubeaeoentnone Frame downtubes to frame FEKOM easy etree ceases terest terre Seer tah Ue | Ce FAGaigietcmcnmien aren erect treenctetr st ces eer cht disci te eh eee es ees Reatairamesection tonnealmer ViilO)peree tense eeneesee nee nena Front forks Cap Dolitoonkpemmr ne cate ert cn sce emere ee ae eee Dampenrodi bolt emearmettam mare ncn Oe Vie kiya es nee Handlebars and steering stem Handlebar to upper triple clamp Allen bolts ......ccccccccccccsseseeseesee Mandlebamto ron etlber pic OOlts pee etnae team ILCONWRENT UFOS CEMA®)!SOLEBacococcnonceanceeinanenotoondeeneronncaonoconmeepnennce ven Ufayorerr Wil all) CHENAYD ICTS crecconsonsoaoncachernecimonseesoonreccenoenseorcereoumennane SUISTEIIMG) SET ( Bacezso icensehocnonencrbeevionc senor ndceceharore etch ce HD AWEIGNG © NANCIE OStyes, os, meee ttn Ld sec ee eae Rear shock absorber pivot bolts/nuts Ufo) O11 icochbocrcoee tec Renn icnnr rate erPer sany Mee meee Dic A pd LCONIMET? casconce Soopeee RER Te EES DEERE AEPRER ERO PE RCT NER CUTE rss cy

55 Nm (40 ft-lbs) 28 Nm (20 ft-lbs) 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs) 28 Nm (20 ft-lbs) 55Nm (40 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) 62 Nm (45 ft-lbs)*

9 Nm (6.5 ft-lbs) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs) 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

42 Nm (80 ft-lbs) 40 Nm (28 ft-lbs)

ee

Chapter 7 NE

ee

Frame, suspension and final drive ESUrey Peer Re Ue EMME tT eee

Rear suspension linkage Relay R1000

16.3d

...and the one in the inside

16.4 Slip the chain off the rear sprocket

16.5 With slack in the chain, lift it off the engine sprocket

16.8

Be sure the cover dowel (arrow) is in position

installation

Tighten the rear axle nut to the torque listed in the Chapter 8 Specifica-

Refer to illustration 16.8

tions.

8 _ Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure the

9

Connect the shift arm to the shift shaft. Be sure to align the punch

10

Lubricate the chain following the procedure described in Chap-

cover dowel is in position (see illustration). Tighten the suspension

fasteners and the engine sprocket cover bolts to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Adjust the chain (see Chapter 1).

—_‘'™arks on arm and shaft.

ter 1. Caution: Use only the recommended engine oil.

Chapter 7

Frame, suspension and final drive

i

17.4

Replace the sprocket if the rubber coating is worn or damaged (arrow)

17.5a

LE.

17.5b

17

...and remove the nut

Sprockets - check and replacement

ee

ee elle

ee

eS

SS

Refer to illustrations 17.4, 17.5a, 17.5b and 17.6 Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this 1 procedure. Whenever the drive chain is inspected, the sprockets should be 2 inspected also. If you are replacing the chain, replace the sprockets as well. Likewise, if the sprockets are in need of replacement, install a new chain also. Remove the engine sprocket cover following the procedure out3. lined in the previous Section. Check the wear pattern on the sprockets (see Chapter 1). If the 4 sprocket teeth or rubber coating are worn excessively, replace the chain and sprockets (see illustration). To replace the engine sprocket, engage a low transmission gear 5 and have an assistant apply the rear brake. Bend back the lockwasher and remove the nut (see illustrations). With the engine sprocket removed, inspect the transmission out6 put shaft seal (see illustration). If it has been leaking oil, replace it. To remove the rear sprocket, remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7 8). Unscrew the nuts holding the sprocket to the wheel coupling and lift it off. Check the condition of the rubber damper under the rear wheel coupling (see Section 18). When installing the rear sprocket, either use new self-locking nuts 8

Bend back the lockwasher (arrow)...

ee

17.6

=

i

S

lf the transmission seal has been leaking (arrow), replace it

(models so equipped), or apply a non-hardening thread locking compound to the threads of the studs (standard nuts). Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 9 When installing the engine sprocket, engage it with the chain. Install a new lockwasher, tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and bend a lockwasher tab against the nut. 10 Install the engine sprocket cover (see Section 16) and the shift arm (see Chapter 2 or Chapter 3).

18

Rear wheel coupling/rubber damper - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 18.2 and 18.3 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 8). 2 Lift the collar and rear sprocket/rear wheel coupling from the wheel (see illustration). 3 Lift the rubber damper segments from the wheel (see illustration) and check them for cracks, hardening and general deterioration. Replace the rubber damper with a new one if necessary. 4 Checking and replacement procedures for the coupling bearing

are similar to those described for the wheel bearings. Refer to Chapter 8. 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

7-38

Chapter 7

Frame, suspension and final drive

ico oc i,

18.3

STD

eet

-.

Lift the damper segments out of the wheel

76 SH

cmin_[ sto [MAX Tino [a

STD

19.4 Turn the adjuster with a wrench to change spring preload; the upper grooves indicate the preload setting and the lower grooves indicate the fork height setting

19

19.5 Turn the damping adjuster on top of the fork cap to increase or decrease damping

Suspension adjustments

1 The front suspension (FZR750/1000 models only) and rear suspension can be made firmer or softer for different riding conditions. Warning: /f you’re working on an FZR750/1000, always set both front forks to the same preload setting. Uneven settings can cause unstable handling. Caution: Turn the adjusters in progressive steps through all of the settings without skipping any of the intermediate settings (for example, don’t skip from setting 1 to setting 3). 2 _ Find the proper settings for your riding conditions in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Front forks (1987 and 1988 FZR750R) Refer to illustrations 19.4 and 19.5 3. Spring preload and fork damping can be increased or decreased by turning an adjuster on the top of each fork. Fork top height can be adjusted by moving the fork up or down in the triple clamps. 4 Adjust spring preload by turning the preload adjuster at the top of the fork (see illustration). The grooves on the adjuster indicate the setting. 5 Adjust fork damping force by turning the damping adjuster at the top of the fork (see illustration). Turning the adjuster toward the no. 4 setting stiffens the fork; turning toward no. 1 setting softens it. 6 To adjust fork top height, remove the side fairings (see Chapter 9). Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this procedure, then raise the front tire off the ground with a jack placed under the engine. 7 Loosen the pinch bolts for the handlebars, upper triple clamp and lower triple clamp (see Sections 5 and 7). Raise or lower the forks, us-

ing the grooves as a guide (see illustration 19.4). Be sure the settings are even, then tighten the bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Front forks (1989-on FZR750) 8

Spring preload, fork compression damping and fork rebound

19.13a

Place an open-end wrench on the flat at the top of the adjuster (arrow) and turn the adjuster...

damping can be increased or decreased by turning an adjuster on the top or bottom of each fork. Fork top height can be adjusted by moving the fork up or down in the triple clamps. 9 Perform Steps 4, 6 and 7 above to adjust spring preload and fork height. 10 To set rebound damping, turn the adjuster at the top of the fork all

the way in, then back it out the number of clicks necessary to reach the desired setting. Caution: Don’t try to turn the adjuster beyond its minimum or maximum settings.

11 To the fork to reach yond its

set compression damping, turn the adjuster at the bottom of all the way in, then back it out the number of clicks necessary the desired setting. Caution: Don’t try to turn the adjuster beminimum or maximum settings.

Front forks (FZR1000) Refer to illustrations 19.13a, 19.13b and 19.14 12 Spring preload is adjustable. Turning the adjuster clockwise makes the suspension firmer and turning it counterclockwise (anticlockwise) makes it softer. 13 If you’re working on a 1987, 1988 or 1990 and later model, turn

Chapter 7

Frame, suspension and final drive

7-39

oe 19.13b

... the grooves indicate the settings

19.14 Turn the preload adjuster (1) clockwise to stiffen the suspension and counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to

soften it (1989 FZR1000)

Sd 19.17a

The rear spring preload adjuster on FZR600 models is located at the top of the shock absorber (the numbers indicate settings) ...

19.17b

... turn it with the special wrench provided in the bike’s tool kit

the adjuster with an open-end wrench (see illustrations). 14 If you’re working on a 1989 model, remove the cap from the top of the fork and turn the adjuster with a screwdriver (see illustration).

Rear shock and spring (all models) Adjustments include spring preload (all models) and shock damp15 ing (1989 and later FZR750/1000 only). Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this 16 procedure.

19.18

FZR600 models Refer to illustrations 19.17a and 19.17b Turn the spring adjuster at the top of the shock clockwise to in17 crease spring preload and counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to decrease it (see illustration). Use the special wrench included in the motorcycle’s tool kit or equivalent (see illustration).

1987 and 1988 FZR750R models Refer to illustration 19.18 Loosen the locknut at the bottom of the shock absorber and turn 48 the preload adjuster with the special wrench from the bike’s tool kit (see illustration). Measure the length of the spring and compare it with the recommended settings listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 149 Set rebound damping force by turning the adjuster all the way in, then turning it out and counting the clicks. Compare the setting to the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

1989-on FZR750 models 20 Set spring preload by turning the adjuster in or out. Compare the reading on the adjuster scale to the values listed in this Chapter’s

Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster to change spring length (and spring preload)

A

Spring length

B

Adjuster

C

Locknut

Specifications. Caution: Don’t turn any of the adjusters past the specified range. 21 Set rebound damping force by turning the adjuster all the way in, then turning it out and counting the clicks. Compare the setting to the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 22 Set compression damping force by turning the adjuster all the way in, then turning it out and counting the clicks. Compare the setting to the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

FZR1000 models Refer to illustrations 19.23a and 19.23b 23 Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut at the bottom of the shock to set spring preload (see illustration). Measure the distance from the line between the adjusting nut and locknut to the top of the lower mounting bracket (see illustration) and compare it with the

7-40

Chapter 7

Frame, suspension and final drive

-

-~——

ZAR — a

JL

pelea mea ee

19.23b

eee:

19.23a

Pe Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut to change

spring preload 1

Preload adjusting nut

2

_Locknut

range listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Spring length changes 1 mm (0.040 inch) for each turn of the adjuster. Caution: Don’t adjust the

spring to a length outside the specified range.

24 3

Damping adjuster

Measure from between the locknut and adjusting nut to the top of the lower bracket

If you’re working on a 1989 or later FZR1000, turn the adjuster at

the bottom of the shock to set damping force (see illustration 19.23a). Caution: Don’t turn the adjuster out more than nine clicks from the fully-in position.

Chapter 8

Brakes, wheels and tires

Contents Section Brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation ....cccccccccsccceseeeees 3

Section General iMfOrMatiOn)ca.ccecssosecssessveseveseasessexorssscetaccesuesesoerseseeeceee ome

Brake check..... es soseesensnseesiacenneensascasieensasesssneonsnesnns See Chapter 1

Rear brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation...

Brake disc(s) ~ Inspection, removalrancdiinstallatiommescscsseecestee

Brake Brake Brake Brake Front

hoses - Inspection and replaceMeNt .........sceeeeceesieeeeeee light switches - check and adjustment .......ccccc000 See Chapter pads - replacement scircissh aciewsis ona bg gu setanions eliasteusvencenssteeeneaeet eee system bleeding Bremer esis aan steneh nent censki dene cacesn pada csteee etme brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation ..

Front wheel - removal, inspection and installation......c.cccccccccceeeeeee

4

Rear wheel - removal, inspection and installation 0...

it 1 2 8 5

Tubeless tires - general information ...........:::ccceeseseenesneeseeeseens Wheeltbearings = replacement vccnnvcscccsncesver-eeeussenesessserenevesererepnerere stenoses Wheelsizalignment checker screnicass senses cescssse-sesvsccvusneusnscton Wheels and tires - general CHECK ............:ceecseeseseeeesenees See Chapter 1 WheelsiminSpectionrandlirepalitensersesersssesteersssenecessseenssse sareesesther

Wl

Specifications

Brakes Brake lever free-play and pedal position see Chapter 1

FZR600/600R See Chapter 1 Beset eIICUE[meer cree Cotes nec aanttatu iatinte ntrions Gok conkanicaataseanennenatens Front brake disc thickness Standard Pees Ae caress cbse case acensessntaeanesacne wid cesnuy anschaioan vance maeennsette 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) AVAIGHILCAUNMmemebers ess arene eraruce recess serecceescer cas circec cos carerneamesunctnnaacer 3.5 mm (0.14 inch) Rear brake disc thickness Standard PR orci ee iasenn pu tuanebe eve oerndcnk Shneanrac ane aaeotes 5.0 mm (0.20 inch) RUMAHH peeereces ere ean c= cceeneces. eee ct men sUectnenseveneduceedanoetacdiantsrandrende 4.5 mm (0.18 inch) *Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) Disc runout limit Pad thickness (front and rear) 5 mm (0.2 inch) Standard 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) Minimum

FZR750R Brake fluid type Front brake disc thickness (1987 and 1988) Standard Minimum* Front brake disc thickness (1989-on) Standard Minimum* Rear brake disc thickness (1987 and 1988)

Standard Minimum* Rear brake disc thickness (1989-on)

See Chapter 1 Not specified 4.5 mm (0.18 inch) 5 mm (0.20 inch) 3 mm (0.12 inch) Not specified 5.5 mm (0.22 inch)

7 mm (0.28 inch) 4 mm (0.16 inch) *Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here) 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Disc runout limit Pad thickness (front) US models 5.0 mm (0.20 inch) Standard 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) Minimum Standard

Minimum*

UK models Standard Minimum Pad thickness (rear) All except 1989-on FZR750 models Standard Minimum 41989-on FZR750 models Standard Minimum

FZR1000 Brake fluid type Front brake disc thickness 1987 and 1988 models

Standard Minimum*

5.3 mm (0.21 inch) 1.0 mm (0.04 inch)

5.5 mm (0.22 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) 5.5 mm (0.22 inch) 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) See Chapter 1

Not specified

3.5 mm (0.14 inch)

8-2 a

Chapter 8 Brakes, wheels and tires ee ee

eee

FZR1000 (continued) 1989-on STE Ile Ll olkeer eechacboGrcoseC Nee NecEic to arance pace aie nocoumnocecec epee oa Srnrtian IN UATE seccenceent consn-teadelpineeencosnnoapeecemarenncsonnan’ yopacseeccearoe oscrr Rear brake disc thickness 1987 and 1988

STU TAC

elt Sonate psecabannoaaansaaroctotarnsooehndide ocsceeeeocnncrere oarrocconadsoc

LWAIT@IIRaNG iia} Snasssonssacese ee aoec ones enseemcereeanthortormeccccetecEen apescrcnotsnb 1989-on ELIE TAYGFelo an santacaaearannnanennedoe cea chpepee SUceoLeCet cosamen tprcornannereoreococ YNTRTUCTTU Cal ec cchenrsshemece cecera eer ocrerouenacoct aerocmocucdeceneeere eenaneerco

4.0 mm (0.16 inch) 3.0 mm (0.12 inch)

Not specified 4.5 mm (0.18 inch)

5.0 mm (0.20 inch) 4.0 mm (0.16 inch)

*Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here) DISGRUMOUTINT beers aces tees ekonaciaes oes caccteane tee ssece ca crahneeeansesien Pad thickness (front and rear) SLAM CAC ares etree esos ep aire en Bese ad ca rie sated eracreR aware NVLi ETAL eeentne cere Otte Saree serene cise dn,Seve potoaeastesenredaaeawanact feneewanek

0.15 mm (0.006 inch)

5.5 mm (0.22 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch)

Wheels and tires Wheel runout

FZR600 arate Tee||i((Uroe Tave Ce FONTAN ccsonecomocd eden a es aedosonckcormcaroousendarortoricerce AXaliSIDS=1OSSIGEre ame sc srcicpncantareasste decevenerse. becsimnntnacene canara

2.0 mm (0.05 inch) 2.0 mm (0.05 inch)

FZR750 (US) veelGl ((Ufo)=GNR VeHCIONR) eseccoecocsecenooseebaonoeoseuracoocecocnoct pocecoesrece AKIal(SI Gat O=SiG@) Secpussneaotscrs eacsbynceectee neanes sanesece ame memmeeenae

FZR750 (UK) avevelFel (Ufey=elnie XeTehi Al) scceosetoounceousecan tecosdacecLeceonsssusonerbuicdonadce: AXtali(SIGS=tOsSiGeC)ssh waesce ver eanes sais esse eects pectecsa oe eee

ee

FZR1000 (1987 and 1988) IReEIe Nall (UPD=GIMVEECLO NVI cocsonocosioscanscencossencubousoocnr Sebotobucdnasoaeactoce Axial SIGG2tOFS| Cle) eas oeete: hese ecewen cer erece sksania aes

FZR1000 (1989-on) [RREXC TIE! (UFS)=CeViVe (CTONWIA) |eonernnconeonconcedooosonsoonnasdJandcnboaspacbaqsoorcrapode Axial (SIGE=tO=SiCe) ers ceaecemese tanner eect MN SNOKESSUOS Recent ttece ss ee aan wncte eae. e sn Sar ce Ree cea sc aaurteeee ee ene oe ee Tire sizes

FZR600 (1989 US, 1989 and 1990 Uk) FROMM cesearesacesteecevecouestnantutews soceuik seesBkonyseseate ceciuseedagsreorascoretens FRGEllipeteasrrcs Sect sentsatereceetstienay eine «ite ct sae saener’ ec tasscanltenedusaenns arate FZR600 (1990 US) FROM Uneemece ot seers tear ne cov exitenn savuirasshiee eames sae ei wale cree PROGR eines Seer es eet Scere on Lean ch co MS a eso Pe FZR600 (1991-on) IROL oestcestonndd code te oncscecaceassoubed sneer once eae eon IeR EER eee EE Paneer o rene FCG Gee te er se ee eg en se ea cee oe Nea oan eer ter ea FZR750 1987 (US) PROM Heseucensessteeraes seccvarauaceeaccescerees manda eearac taeeeree See IRCA acters muni y-ea-e Ate cee cere r ses een uriida enee eee 1988 (US) ENON teen urcietoencsw perme ciice cakes Sean ide sue eee ae eee AIG¥s[Remmtenace aepseen Rec 1989-on (Uk)

cen

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1989 and 1990 (US) FV OID soesesee sence screen ei cankereve rsheceis kyaosdasatuvssebini ignite LaGIELtsececenehber hort cence cea cncre ee ea ay Ree eee em me Re 1989-on (Uk) FahOlinters remic arsaete ee erte et eae eee naan, Simctes vs veguiaahews seis ccet coe sees IBLELE(e oncparnaeecne pectrrar Mersin ocespacr Ecc een eee CEES eRe 1991-on (US) S(OAleyria cnn tr ba deoricenooe de Seceeet corCHa oerao:ner RARER CER PACA rsceu sven nies tae cette wens as dectee eatrruneer eer chests ne wae cece

1.0 mm (0.04 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch)

2.0 mm (0.05 inch) 2.0 mm (0.05 inch) 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) 2.0 mm (0.05 inch) 2.0 mm (0.05 inch) See Chapter 1

110/70 V17-V240 130/70 V18-V240 110/70 ZR17 140/60 ZR18

110/70 ZR17 or 110/70 VR-17/V240 140/60 ZR18 or 140/60 VR18-V240

120/70 VR17/V270 160/60 VR18/V270 120/70 ZR17 160/60 ZR18

120/70 ZR17 or 120/70 VR17/V260 or 120/70 VR17/V270 170/60 ZR17 or 170/70 VR17/V260 or 170/60 VR17/V270

120/70 VR17/V270 160/60 VR18/V270 120/70 ZR17 or 120/70 VR17/V270 160/60 ZR18 or 160/60 VR18/V270 as 1988 US

130/60 ZR-17 170/60 ZR-17 130/60 ZR-17 or 130/60 VR17/V280 170/60 ZR-17 or 170/60 VR17/V280 130/60 ZR-17 or 130/60 VR17/V280 170/60 ZR-17 or 170/60 VR-17/V280

ee

tl

a

Chapter 8 Brakes, wheels and tires it a a No a eg

8-3

Torque specifications SANE MOU DONS eg yo saa sente yds descaceoalasacc asus nae Front caliper pad retaining bolt (1989-on EZR7SO) eect nee Corlibe ail#.sTe AVP1Ne)) Ceol eee eee re re re one Seen Front axle

35 Nm (25 ft-lbs) 18 Nm (18 ft-lbs) 6 Nm (58 in-lbs)

All except 1989-on FZR750/1000 Models .o.c.ceccccccececececcecccscecees TSEOLANFATRASIO! NOL) TaKeYe IS coc pomcenceccoencrareceatane waseeenotheonnocce

58 Nm (42 ft-lbs) 75 Nm (64 ft-lbs)

Front axle clamp bolt AILEXCEDUN OSO-OlEZA R750) Oc elSsain eeene

USO OnEARTSONMOGEIS cso esr tee eee tat ce Meee ee realKerc ScumOumuln Glo[hoe acese wee ataes tee lt) eae em Union (banjo fitting) bolts ARGOOO SIS ee trceee im tecen, A i Meee eae e Wl ole CE = eZ Ra OA OOOIMOCSIS a meray eer csn tease cence Meee: Master cylinder mounting bolts Front AillexcepudSe9-on EZ Ry SUlimodelseus eee IIGS-On PA RPOONNOGEISS «a enscteeore ereo Meee. BASIS] Cece eee a te ean scaa ae a eee a ene ea Rear axle nut PeEO OMTO GSS carr mnee tec Srsceui actna cet sstes cee areatt tre) date bce teh ISSTanGiIssi-7RTOOMOO0 modelsamester eee

tn

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20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) 35 Nm (25 ft-lbs) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)*

26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

9 Nm (6.5 ft-lbs) 8 Nm (5.8 ft-lbs) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

107 Nm (77 ft-lbs) 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

75 Nm (54 ft-lbs) 150 Nm (110 ft-lbs)

1

General information

The models covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulic disc brakes on the front and rear. 1989 FZR600 models use a pair of dual-piston calipers at the front. All other models use a pair of four-piston calipers at the front. All models use one dual-piston caliper at the rear. The rear caliper on 1988 and later FZR750 models is mounted beneath the disc; on all others it’s mounted above the disc.

All models are equipped with cast aluminum wheels, which require very little maintenance and allow tubeless tires to be used. Caution: Disc brake components rarely require disassembly. Do not disassemble components unless absolutely necessary. If any hydraulic brake line connection in the system is loosened, the entire system should be disassembled, drained, cleaned and then properly filled and bled upon reassembly. Do not use solvents on internal brake components. Solvents will cause seals to swell and distort. Use only clean brake fluid, brake cleaner or alcohol for cleaning. Use care when work-

ing with brake fluid as it can injure your eyes and it will damage painted surfaces and plastic parts.

2 ~~ Brake pads - replacement

Front calipers Warning: When replacing the front brake pads always replace the pads in BOTH calipers - never just on one side. Replace the anti-squeal shims and pad spring whenever the pads are replaced. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to 2.3a

Dual-piston front calipers

- exploded view

your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any

i Se

of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. 1 Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this

procedure.

Bo ce mae

i

3.

Pad pin retaining clip

11.

Pads

4

Pad cover

12

Pad spring

5

Pad pin retaining clip

13.

Caliper assemblies

6

Pad pin

14

Brake disc mounting

All except 1989-on FZR750 models

Refer to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b, 2.3c, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.6

7 8

Caliper body Pistons

15

bolts Brake discs

2 3.

Remove the brake pad cover from each caliper (see Chapter 1). Pull the retaining clips out of the pad pins (see illustrations).

Chapter 8

8-4

E

2.3b

E

Z

7%

\

Brakes, wheels and tires

en

Pull out the pad pin retaining clips (all except 1989 and later FZR750 models)

4 Pull out one of the pad pins (see illustration). 5 Remove the pad spring (see illustration). Note that the longer end of the spring faces forward (in the rotating direction of the brake discs). 6 Pull out the remaining pad pin and lift the pads out of the caliper (see illustration).

1989-on FZR750 models Refer to illustration 2.7

7

Unscrew the pad retaining bolt and take off the pad spring (see il-

lustration). Pull the pads out of their slots.

2.3¢ Four-piston front calipers - exploded view (600 and iate 1000 model shown; US 750 and early 1000 models similar)

All models

1 2

Bleed valve cap Bleed valve

9 10

Piston seals ~Dust seals

8

Check the condition of the brake discs (see Section 4). If they are

4

Pad spring

12

Caliper assembly

in need of machining or replacement, follow the procedure in that Sec-

5

Pad pin retaining clip

13.

Caliper mounting bolt

tion to remove them. If they are okay, deglaze them with sandpaper or

6

Pad pin

14.

Brake disc mounting

emery cloth, using a swirling motion. 9 Remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the pistons into the caliper as far as possible,

7 8

Caliper mounting bolt Pistons

15

bolt Brake discs

Refer to illustrations 2.10a and 2.10b

2.4 Pull out one of the pad pins (1989 and later FZR750 models use a single pad retaining bolt)

3.

Pad cover

2.5 Remove the pad spring and pull out the remaining pad pin

11.

~Pads

2.6 Pull the pads out of their slots

Chapter 8

Brakes, wheels and tires

2.10a Special lubricants are required in the UK (and recommended anywhere salt is used on the roads) to prevent corrosion

A B-

Apply Duckhams Copper 10 or equivalent to the shaded areas Apply Shin-Etsu G-40M or equivalent silicone grease to the shaded areas

Se

2.7 Front calipers (1989-on FZR750 models) - exploded view Bleed valve and cap

Dust seals

Pad spring Caliper mounting bolt Pad retaining bolt Caliper body Pistons Piston seals

Brake pads Brake discs

Brake disc mounting bolt

Caliper assembly Caliper mounting bolt

while checking the master cylinder reservoir to make sure it doesn’t

try usoverflow. If you can’t depress the pistons with thumb pressure, and ing a C-clamp (G-clamp). If the piston sticks, remove the caliper 3. Section in described overhaul it as pads move 10 Warning: This step is necessary to ensure that the

in freely in the calipers. Because a large amount of salt is used on roads Before the UK, special lubrication of the pads and calipers is required.

s Copinstalling the pads on UK models, apply a thin film of Duckham ons): illustrati (see areas following per 10 or equivalent to the pads a) To the edges of the metal backing on the brake

2.10b Apply the recommended lubricants to the pad friction areas inside the caliper and to the exposed portion of the caliper pistons A B_

Duckhams Copper 10 Shin-Etsu G-40M silicone grease

b) To the pad retaining pins or bolt shaft c) To the areas of the caliper where the pads rub d) To the threads of the caliper mounting bolts. Apply a thin film of Shin-Etsu G-40M or equivalent silicone grease to

the following: e) Exposed areas of the caliper pistons f) The areas of the pad backing plates that contact the pistons. Caution: Don’t use too much Copper 10 and don’t apply it to the pad pin retaining clips or the anti-squeal shim(s). Make sure no Copper 10 contacts the brake discs or the pad friction surfaces.

8-6

Chapter 8

Brakes, wheels and tires

All except 1989-on FZR750 models Refer to illustration 2.11 11 If you’re working on an FZR600 with four-piston calipers, assemble the pads, shims and shim retainers (see illustration). 12 Install the pads in the caliper. 13 Position the pad spring on the pads with its longer end facing forward. Slide the pad pins into their holes, making sure they pass over the fingers on the pad spring. 14 Install the retaining clips in the pad pins.

2.11

Pads and shims

(FZR600 models with four-piston calipers)

1989-on FZR750 models

1

Brake pads

2 3.

Pad shims Shim retainers

15 Slide the pads into their slots and install the pad spring with its longer tangs forward. Install the pad retaining bolt over the spring and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

2.20a

High-mount rear caliper exploded view

Bleed valve cap Bleed valve Pad cover Pad pin retaining clip Pad pin Caliper body Piston Piston DAARWMH DON = Piston seals 10 ~+Dust seals 71. +Pad spring 12 Pad shims 13) Fads 14 ~~ Caliper assembly 15 Torque arm 16 Caliper mounting bolt 17 Brake disc mounting bolt 18 Brake disc

aysShy

(} S|

Chapter 8

2.20b

1

Bleed valve cap

2 3 4

Bleed valve Pad cover Pad pin retaining clip

5

Pad pin

6

Caliper body

Brakes, wheels and tires

Low-mount (underslung) rear caliper - exploded view

Piston

12

Pad shims

8 9 10

Piston Piston seals Dust seals

ioe. 14 15

Pads Caliper assembly Brake disc mounting bolt

11

Pad spring

16

Brake disc

7

All models 16

8-7

Refill the master cylinder reservoir (see Chapter 1) and install the

diaphragm and cap. Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into con17 tact with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before

riding the motorcycle. Rear calipers Refer to illustrations 2.20a, 2.20b, 2.21a, 2.21b, 2.22 and 2.24

Warning: The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Replace the anti-squeal shims and pad spring whenever the pads are replaced.

18

Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this

procedure.

19 20

Remove the pad cover (see Chapter 1). Pull the retaining clips out of the pad pins (see illustrations).

8-8

Chapter 8

2.21a

Pull out t

: 2.22

Brakes, wheels and tires

L Pull the pads out of their slots

2.24

Be sure the arrows on the pad shims point in the forward rotating direction of the wheel

21 Pull one of the pad pins out of the caliper, then lift the pad spring off of the other pad pin and pull it out (see illustrations). Lift the pads out of the caliper (see illustration). 22 23 Perform Steps 7, 8 and 9 above to inspect the disc and prepare the caliper for pad installation. 24 Note the arrow on each pad shim (see illustration). Be sure it points forward (in the direction of disc rotation) when the pad is installed. 25 __ Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following additions: a) Install the pad spring with its longer tangs pointing in the forward rotating direction of the wheel and secure it with the pad pins. b) Refill the master cylinder reservoir (see Chapter le c) Operate the brake pedal to bring the pads back into contact with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before riding the motorcycle.

3.2a Remove the union bolt and two sealing washers - this is a front caliper...

1

Union bolt and sealing washers

2

3

Brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

———--_eumaaoqomqawVwVuoi

Brake hose fitting locating tab

Warning: /f a front caliper indicates the need for an overhaul (usually due to leaking fluid or sticky operation), BOTH front calipers should be overhauled and all old brake fluid flushed from the system. Also, the

Chapter 8

8-9

Brakes, wheels and tires

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