Haynes VW Passat (Petrol) Owners Workshop Manual 1850106479, 9781850106470

Haynes VW Passat (Petrol) Owners Workshop Manual - Ian M. Coomber - Haynes Publishing - 1991.

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vw PASSAT (petrol) May 1988 to 1991 1781 ccn1984 cc

Owners Workshop Manual

LIBRARY'S r.:i WITKO;

i

.rJTOC’C

Contents Page Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

5

Introduction to the VW Passat

5

General dimensions, weights and capacities

7

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

-7-

8

Buying spare and vehicle identification numbers

10

General repair procedures

11

Tools and working facilities

12

Conversion factors

14

Safety first!

15

Routine maintenance

16

Recommended lubricants and fluids

22

Fault diagnosis

23

Chapter 1 Engine

26

Chapter 2 Cooling system

59

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

71

Chapter 4 Ignition system

110

Chapter 5 Clutch

124

Chapter 6 Transmission

132

Chapter 7 Driveshafts

166

Chapter 8 Braking system

174

Chapter 9 Suspension and steering

194

Chapter 10 Bodywork and fittings

222

Chapter 11 Electrical system

252

Index

324

1990 model VW Passat 1.8 GL Saloon

4

V

J

About this manual Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in.3 step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement The manual is divided into eleven Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1,5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the

Chapter - eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. This manual is not a direct reproduction of the vehicle manufac¬ turers' data, and its publication should not be taken as implying any technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers or importers. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles The vehicles used in the preparation of this manual, and which appear in many of the photographic sequences, were a 1990 VW Passat 1.8 GL Saloon and a 1991 VW Passat 2.0 GT 16V Estate.

Introduction to the VW Passat The 'New' Passat was introduced in May 1988, with numerous modifications and improvements over its predecessor. The most obvi¬ ous change is the shape of the bodywork which has more aerodynamic and spacious features than the earlier model. The new model range is based on a four-door Saloon or five-door Estate. All rhodels have full un¬ derbody protection with a PVC/filler coating, wax injection to the lower box sections and cavities, and the most exposed and corrosion-prone panels are galvanised. Depending on the model, the engine will be of 1.8 or 2.0 litre capacity, with single- or multi-point fuel injection and an electronic engine management system. A three-way catalytic converter is fitted to all models.

A five-speed manual or four-speed automatic transmission is fitted, drive being to the front wheels. Rack and pinion steering (power-assisted on some models) is used, and independent suspension is fitted front and rear. Disc front brakes and disc or drum rear brakes are fitted, depending on the model. All models have servo-assisted braking and ABS is fitted to the high performance models. The new Passat is a spacious, comfortable and well-equipped vehicle, with full instrumentation. Fittings such as electric windows, central locking, and a tilt/slide sunroof are standard features on some models, optional on others. A properly-maintained Passat will prove a rewarding vehicle to own.

6

1990 model VW Passat 2.0 GT 16V Saloon

1990 model VW Passat 1.8 GT Estate

General dimensions, weights and capacities Dimensions Overall length. Overall width... Overall height. Wheelbase. Front track. Rear track. Turning circle.

Saloon 4573 mm (180 in) 1704 mm (67 in) 1428 mm (56.2 mm) 2623 mm (103.3 in) 1479 mm (58.2 in) 1422 mm (56 in) 10.7 m (35.1 ft)

Estate 4569 mm (180 in) 1704 mm (67 in) 1448 mm (57 in) 2623 mm (103.3 in) 1490 mm (58.7 in) 1422 mm (56 in) 10.7 m (35.1 ft)

Weights (overall)

Saloon

Estate

Kerb weight (unladen): CL and GL. GT. GT 16V (Twin-Cam). Gross vehicle weight: CL and GL. GT. GT 16V (Twin-Cam). Maximum roof rack load - all models. Maximum permissible towing weight: Unbraked trailer - all models. Braked trailer: All models except GT 16V Saloon. GT 16V (T win-Cam) Saloon.

1125 kg (2481 lb) 1150 kg (25361b) 1185 kg (26131b)

1145 kg (2525 lb) 1170 kg (2580 lb) 1205 kg (2657 lb)

1650 kg (36381b) 1660 kg (36601b) 1700 kg (3479 lb) 75 kg (165 lb)

1670 kg (3682 lb) 1690 kg (37261b) 1730 kg (38151b)

Capacities

All models

Engine oil: With filter change - all engines. Without filter change - all engines. Difference between the engine oil MAX to MIN level on the dipstick. Cooling system... Fuel tank. Transmission: Manual transmission. Automatic transmission (service). Final drive (automatic only). Windscreen washer. Windscreen/headlamp washer. Power-assisted steering.

550 kg (1213 lb) 1000 kg (22051b) 1200 kg (26461b)

4.0 litres (7.0 pints) 3.5 litres (6.2 pints) 0.75 litres (1.3 pints) 6.5 litres (11.1 pints) 70 litres (15.4 gallons) 2.0 litres (3.5 pints) 3.0 litres (5.3 pints) 0.75 litres (1.3 pints) 5.0 litres (8.8 pints) 9.0 litres (15.8 pints) 0.8 litres (1.4 pints)

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Jacking and wheel changing The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for wheel changing, as described later. When raising the vehicle for repair or maintenance, preferably use a trolley or hydraulic jack, with a wooden block as an insulator, to prevent damage to the underbody. Place the jack under the jacking points, which are located behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels, beneath the diamond-embossed marks on the sills (photos). Position axle stands together with wooden blocks under the jacking points. If both front or both rear wheels are to be raised, jack up one side first, and securely support it on an axle stand before raising the other side. To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work beneath it, is not included before each relevant operation described in this manual. Where possible, position the car over an inspection pit, or raise it on a lift. Always support the car on axle stands before working beneath it.

Towing

air duct must be removed by pressing down on the middle of the upper rail, then pulling the duct from the bumper. When being towed, switch on the ignition so that the steering lock is unlocked, and so that the direction indicator, horn and wipers may be used. Note that with the engine stopped, more effort will be required to stop the car, as the brake servo will be inoperative. Similarly on power steering models, more effort will be required to turn the steering wheel. The gear lever should be in neutral on manual gearbox models, or position 'N' on automatic transmission models. Automatic transmission models should not be towed further than 30 miles (50 km) or faster than 30 mph (50 km/h). If these conditions cannot be met, or if transmission damage has occurred, the front wheels should be off the ground for the duration of the tow. Do not tow-start a vehicle over a long distance if the engine is already at its normal operating temperature, as unburnt fuel reaching the catalytic converter could ignite in the converter. If the ignition system is suspected of malfunction, disconnect the TCI-H switch before towing the vehicle.

Towing eyes are provided at the front and rear of the car (photo). The rear eye is welded to the underbody. The front eye is located in the right-hand front air duct, and may be unscrewed and kept in the tool kit. When removing or fitting the front eye, or when fitting a tow rope, the

To change a roadwheel, first park on a firm level surface if possible. Chock the wheel opposite the one being removed. Apply the hand-

Front and rear jacking points (arrowed)

Front end lift point for trolley jack or vehicle lift

Vehicle spare wheel and tool kit

Wheel changing

Vehicle jack in position ...

... and aligned with embossed mark in sill

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

9

Rear end lift point for trolley jack or vehicle lift

Rear towing eye brake, and engage reverse gear (or 'P' on automatic transmission models). Remove the wheel trim (or wheel bolt caps) using a screw¬ driver where necessary. On some models the wheel trim is secured by a multi-point screw and this can be removed using the screwdriver in the vehicle tool kit. On other models the trim is removed by engaging the wire hook from the vehicle tool kit in the rim of the trim or in the two holes in the edge of the trim; with the wheel brace passed through the wire hook, the trim can be levered free.

Loosen the wheel bolts half a turn each. Position the jack beneath the jacking point with its pad on the vertical seam. Raise the car until the wheel is just clear of the ground. Remove the uppermost wheel bolt, and screw in the plastic guide from the tool kit. Remove the remaining bolts, and take off the wheel. Fit the spare wheel, and insert the three bolts finger-tight, then unscrew the plastic guide and fit the fourth bolt. Lightly tighten the bolts with the brace. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack, then tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence. Tighten the bolts as hard as possible using the brace supplied, but have their tightness checked as soon as possible with a torque wrench. Refit the wheel trim, making sure (where applicable) that the valve is located in the special hole. Where the temporary lightweight spare wheel is fitted, do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h), and fit the standard wheel as soon as possible.

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, VW have many dealers throughout the country, and other dealers, accessory shops, and motor factors will also stock. Our advice regarding spare parts sources is as follows. Officially appointed vehicle main dealers - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car, and are not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal transmission components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will be necessary to give the storeman your vehicle engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take some 'old' parts along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a

factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other dealers and auto accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fanbelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell genera! accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/ seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers

Location of vehicle identification plate (1) and engine number (2)

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture. Spare parts manuals and listings are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle identification numbers being essential to identify correctly the component concerned. Vehicle identification plate - The vehicle type plate-and chassis number plate are both located in the engine compartment, on the right-hand side of the air intake plenum chamber. Note that the vehicles supplied to some countries may not have this plate fitted. Engine number - This is located on the cylinder block, just beneath the cylinder head at the front. Vehicle data sticker - On Saloon models, this is located on the left-hand side of the cross-panel in the boot. On Estate models, it is located on the left-hand side of the spare wheel well.

General repair procedures Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two compo¬ nents, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound if this is being used unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the compo¬ nent cannot be restored, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face.

Screw threads and fastenings Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to

do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align a split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining nut or bolt. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed. Self-locking nuts must normally be renewed although it may be permissible to re-use them in non-critical areas providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough under¬ standing of the procedure described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

Tools and working facilities Introduction

Repair and overhaul tool kit

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a consider¬ able expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehen¬ sive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the i in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair opera¬ tions are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combina¬ tion spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners- 10,11, 12, 13, 14 & 17mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key Sparkplug spanner (with rubber insert) Sparkplug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in long x i in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver 4 in long x i in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge OH can Fine emery doth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) 'Mole' wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in long x in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1\ in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x ^ in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - i inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists' club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find

Tools and working facilities occasional references to these manufacturers' special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers' special tool is given. However, sometime!? there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor (where applicable) Piston ring compressor Ball joint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wfenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circum¬ stances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least ft in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

13

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in) 0.250 0.276 0.313 0.315 0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525 0.551 0.563 0.591 0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024 1.063 1.100

1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 1.575 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688 1.811 1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

Spanner size i in AF 7 mm T%in AF 8 mm ft in AF; t in Whitworth 9 mm | in AF 10 mm 11 mm T^in AF fjin Whitworth; \ in BSF 12 mm t in AF 13 mm J in Whitworth; fjin BSF 14 mm •ftinAF 15 mm fgin Whitworth; f in BSF f in AF 16 mm 17 mm ft in AF 18 mm | in Whitworth; fjin BSF 19 mm | in AF ftinAF ffn Whitworth; £ in BSF 22 mm t in AF t in Whitworth; ^in BSF ft in AF 24 mm 1 in AF fjin Whitworth; f in BSF 26 mm Ifsin AF; 27 mm f in Whitworth; ft in BSF It in AF 30 mm ft in Whitworth; f in BSF It in AF 32 mm t in Whitworth; t in BSF If^in AF in Whitworth; f| in BSF 36 mm IfginAF t in Whitworth; 1 in BSF It in AF 40 mm; f| in Whitworth 41 mm If in AF 1 in Whitworth; It in BSF 1ft in AF 46 mm Iff in AF It in Whitworth; If in BSF It in AF 50 mm 2 in AF 1J in Whitworth; If in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

Conversion factors Length (distance) = Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

X 0.0394 X 3.281 X 0.621

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

= = = = = = = =

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

= = = = = = = =

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (lb)

0.278 4.448 0.1

= Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

X X X

3.6 0.225 9.81

punces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

X

14.223

inch

X

0.068

= Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Atmospheres (atm)

X

14.696

inch

X

0.069

=

Bars

X

14.5

inch

X

6.895

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

X

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Pascals (Pa) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH20) Inches of water (inH20) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/iri2)

X

98.1

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

X X X X X X X X

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

X X

28.35 0.454

X X X

inch

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) Litres (1) Litres (1) US quarts (US qt) Litres (1) Litres (1) US gallons (US gal) Litres (1)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa) Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

X 100 X 0.0145

=

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH20)

X X X X

= = =

0.75 0.401 0.535 0.036

=

— Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) = Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) = Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2;. lb/in2) = Pounds-force per square (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) = Kilopascals (kPa)

inch inch inch inch

= Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

X 0.01 X 68.947

=

X X X X

= Millibar (mbar) = Millibar (mbar) = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH20)

1.333 2.491 1.868 27.68

=

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force

inches

X

1.152

inches

X

inches

=

X

0.868

0.113

Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) — Newton metres (Nm)

X

8.85

X

0.083

=

X

12

feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

0.138

=

X

7.233

— Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m) = Newton metres (Nm) Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

inches inches inches feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

=

Power Horsepower (hp)

X 0.0013

= Horsepower (hp)

X

745.7

= Watts (W)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.825 2.352

= Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X X

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

= (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

'It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/lOOkm). where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working proce¬ dures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or Park' where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below). DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Note: Any reference to a ‘torch’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious¬ ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

Asbestos

Ignition HT voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your vehicle. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally elimin¬ ated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs. The following service schedule is a list of maintenance require¬ ments, and the intervals at which they should be carried out. Where applicable, these procedures are covered in greater detail throughout this manual, in Section 2 of each Chapter. Vehicles which operate under adverse conditions (eg in extremes of temperature, or full-time trailer towing, or mainly on short journeys) may benefit from more frequent maintenance than specified. If in doubt, consult a VW dealer.

Clutch - hydraulically-operated (Chapter 5) Check hydraulic circuit for leaks and damage Check hydraulic fluid level

Manual transmission and final drive (Chapter 6) Check transmission for leakage and damage

Automatic transmission and final drive (Chapter 6) Check automatic transmission fluid level Check transmission for leakage and damage

Driveshafts (Chapter 7) Check CV joint rubber bellows

Braking system (Chapter 8) Check hydraulic circuit for leaks and damage Check rear brake shoe linings for wear Check brake hydraulic fluid level

Suspension and steering (Chapter 9) Weekly, or before a long journey

Engine (Chapter 1) Check engine oil level

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Check coolant level

Suspension and steering (Chapter 9) Check the tyre pressures (cold), including the spare

Electrical system (Chapter 11) Top up the washer reservoir(s)

Check track-rod ends Check front suspension lower balljoints Check the tyres Check the shock absorbers Check the suspension mountings Check the steering gear bellows

Bodywork and fittings (Chapter 10) Lubricate the door check straps and bonnet lock

Electrical system (Chapter 11) Check operation of lights and horn Check wiper and washer systems Check battery electrolyte level Check headlight adjustment

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) Every 24 months

Engine (Chapter 1) Change engine oil and renew oil filter

Braking system (Chapter 8) Check brake pad linings for wear

As for the 12-month schedule plus:

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Renew the coolant

Braking system (Chapter 8) Every 12 months

Engine (Chapter 1) Check engine for leaks

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Check cooling system for leaks Check antifreeze strength

Renew the hydraulic brake fluid

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Check the water pump drivebelt tension Check and adjust the air conditioner compressor drivebelt Check air conditioner compressor condition

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (Chapter 3) Check idle speed and CO content Check exhaust system for leaks

Fuel, exhaust and emission controls systems (Chapter 3) Renew the air cleaner element (on models up to 1989)

r

17

Underbonnet view of VW Passat with RP engine 1 2 3 4 5

v.

Engine oil level dipstick Alternator No 1 sparkplug Air cleaner Engine oil filler cap

6 7 8 9 10

Brake/dutch master cylinder Windscreen wiper motor Injector unit Ignition coil Cooling system expansion tank

11 12 13 14 15

Front suspension strut upper mounting Washer fluid reservoir Battery Power-assisted steering fluid reservoir Gear selector control unit (manual transmission)

16 17 18 19 20

Starter motor Cooling fan motor Ignition distributor Bonnet lock Engine oil filter

j

18

"N

Underbonnet view of VW Passat with 9A engine

1 2 3 4 5

6 7

8

V.

Engine oil level dipstick Alternator Air cleaner Fuel metering distributor Air flow meter Engine oil filler cap No 1 spark plug Windscreen wiper motor

9 10 11 72 13 14 15

Brake/dutch master cylinder Vehicle identification plate Throttle valve housing CO measuring pipe Air inlet manifold Ignition coil Ignition distributor

16 Cooling system expansion tank 17 Front suspension strut upper mounting 18 Washer fluid reservoir 19 Idle speed stabilization valve 20 Battery

21 Gear selector control unit (manual transmission)

22 Power-assisted steering 23 24 25 26

fluid reservoir Starter motor Cooling fan motor Injector OH filter (and cooler)

19

Front underside view of VW Passat with RP engine and manual transmission

1 2 3

V.

Engine oil sump drain plug Transmission/differential oil drain plug Starter motor

4 5

6 7

Front brake unit Track rod Damper Anti-roll bar

8

Exhaust pipe 9 Subframe (crossmember) 10 Suspension arm 11 Driveshaft

12 Po wer-assisted steering pump drivebelt 13 Power-assisted steering pump

20

Rear underbody view of VW Passat with RP engine 7

Exhaust pipe and centre silencer 2 Brake regulator

3 4 5

Handbrake cable Rear strut bottom mounting Rear silencer

6 7

8

Exhaust mounting Fuel tank Rear axle

9

Rear axle/suspension pivot mounting 10 Fuel filter

Routine maintenance Ignition system (Chapter 4) Renew the spark plugs

Suspension and steering (Chapter 9) Check power steering fluid level Check and adjust the power steering pump drivebelt

Bodywork and fittings (Chapter 10) Check the condition of the underbody sealant Check that the body panel drain holes are clear

Electrical system (Chapter 71) Check the adjustment and condition of the alternator drivebelt

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)

Engine (Chapter 1) Renew the timing belt

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (Chapter 3) Renew the air cleaner element (models from 1989) Renew the fuel filter

Automatic transmission (Chapter 6) Renew the automatic transmission fluid and filter

21

Recommended lubricants and fluids Component or system

Lubricant type/specification

Duckhams recommendation

Engine (1)

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50

Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade

Cooling system (2)

Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitor

Duckhams Universal Antifreeze and Summer Coolant

Manual transmission and final drive (3)

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80, to API GL4, or VW gear oil G50, SAE 75W/90

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission (4) Transmission Final drive

Dexron II type, ATF VW gear oil G50, SAE 75W/90

Duckhams Uni-Matic or D-Matic Duckhams Hypoid 75W/90S

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Dexron II type ATF VW hydraulic oil G 002 000

Duckhams Uni-Matic or D-Matic *(See note below)

Brake and clutch hydraulic system (5) Power steering (6) To February 1989 February 1989 on

*No direct Duckhams equivalent available, but Uni-Matic or D-Matic can safely be used for topping-up

Fault diagnosis Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly impor¬ tant if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don't overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don't take anyone else's word on this particular point, and don't trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the

A simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults Do not use for testing the ignition system

underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don't take anything for granted. Particularly, don't forget that a 'new' component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don't leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechani¬ cal failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions - heat, vibration and chemical at¬ tack - and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery 'earthed', ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (-) terminal. The various electrical components - motors, bulb holders etc - are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, alternator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply.

Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles - connect leads as shown

24

Fault diagnosis

Carrying a few spares may save a long walk available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance:

Crank engine and check for spark. Note use of insulated tool to hold plug lead Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 11. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a shortcircuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Sparkplugs, dean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap - long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor Drivebelt(s) - emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope Ignition water dispersant aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen V\/orm drive dips If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering: Clutch and throttle cables CyUnder head gasket Alternator brushes Tyre valve core One of the motoring organisations will be able to advise on avail¬ ability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Toolsand working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and

Engine will not start

Engine fails to turn when starter operated Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded

Fault diagnosis Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor faulty Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 11)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 11)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flat battery Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating correctly Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty FIT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark) No fuel in tank (check for delivery) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, renew and regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In an y event, check the warning light sender before condemn¬ ing the engine.

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly

-

ignition fault

Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out

-

25

Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

fuel fault

Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing cap) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out - other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine overheats

Ignition (no-charge) warning light illuminated Slack or broken drivebelt - retension or renew (Chapter 4)

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear Worn timing belt Broken piston ring (ticking noise) Defective hydraulic tappets

Knocking or thumping Unintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blades) Worn drivebelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Chapter 1 Engine Contents Camshaft(s) and tappets - removal, examination and refitting. Crankshaft front and rear oil seals - renewal. Cylinder head - overhaul. Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle). Engine - complete dismantling. Engine - complete reassembly. Engine ancillary components - removal and refitting. Engine and transmission - removal and refitting. Engine - initial start-up after major overhaul. Engine - removal method. Engine components - examination and renovation. Engine dismantling - general. Engine mountings - renewal. Engine reassembly - general.

6 12 8 7 20 24 19 17 25 16 21 18 22 23

Fault diagnosis - engine. Flywheel/driveplate - removal, examination and refitting. General description. Intermediate shaft - removal, examination and refitting. Major operations only possible with the engine removed. Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle. Oil pump - removal and refitting. Pistons and connecting rods - reassembly and refitting. Pistons and connecting rods - removal and dismantling. Routine maintenance - engine. Sump - removal and refitting. Timing belt and sprockets - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle).

Specifications

General Engine code letters: 1.8 (SOHC engine). 1.8 (DOHC engine). 2.0 (SOHC engine)... 2.0 (DOHC engine). Capacity: 1.8 litre. 2.0 litre. Bore/stroke: 1.8 litre. 2.0 litre. Compression ratio: 1.8 PB and PF engines. 1.8 RP type engine. 1.8 KR type engine. 2.0 2E type engine... 2.0 9A type engine. Compression pressures: PB, PF, KR, 2E and 9A type engines: New. Minimum. RP type engine: New. Minimum. Maximum allowable difference between cylinders (all engines) Firing order (all engine).

PB, RP or PF (catalytic) KR 2E 9A 1781 cc 1984 cc 81/86 mm 82.5/92.8 mm 10.0:1 9.0:1 10.0:1 10.4:1 10.5:1

10 to 13 bar 7.5 bar 9 to 12 bar 7.0 bar 3.0 bar 1 -3-4-2 (No 1 at timing belt end)

Lubrication system Oil/type specification. Oil capacity: Including filter... Without filter. Oil filter type. Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum marks: All engines except KR and 9A types. KR and 9A engine types.

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50 (Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade) 4.0 litres (7.0 pints) 3.5 litres (6.1 pints) Champion Cl 01 1.0 litre (1.76 pints) 0.75 litres (1.32 pints)

26 9 1 10 4 3 13 15 14 2 11 5

Chapter 1

Engine

27

Lubrication system (continued) Oil pressure (minimum). Oil pump: Gear backlash (maximum). Gear endfloat (maximum).

2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) at 2000 rpm, and oil temperature of 80°C (176°F) 0.20 mm 0.15 mm

Crankshaft Endfloat: New. Wear limit. Maximum main journal running clearance. Main bearing journal diameter: Standard. 1st undersize. 2nd undersize. 3rd undersize. Big-end bearing journal diameter: Standard. 1st undersize. 2nd undersize. 3rd undersize... Maximum journal ovality.

0.07 to 0.17 mm 0.25 mm 0.017 mm 54.00 mm 53.75 mm 53.50'mm 53.25 mm 47.80 mm 47.55 mm 47.30 mm 47.05 mm 0.03 mm

Intermediate shaft Endfloat.

0.25 mm

Pistons and rings Piston diameter: Standard. 1st oversize. 2nd oversize. Bore diameter: Standard. 1st oversize. 2nd oversize. Piston-to-bore clearance: New. Wear limit. Groove-to-ring clearance: New. Wear limit. Piston ring end gap clearance (measured 15 mm/0.6 in from bottom of bore): New compression ring. New oil control ring: 2 part. 3 part. Piston ring-to-groove side clearance: New. Wear limit.

1.8 80.98 mm 81.23 mm 81.48 mm

2.0 82.48 mm 82.73 mm 82.98 mm

81.01 mm 81.26 mm 81.51 mm

82.51 mm 82.76 mm 83.01 mm

0.03 mm 0.07 mm 0.02 to 0.05 mm 0.15 mm

0.20 to 0.40 mm 0.25 to 0.50 mm 0.40 to 0.50 mm 0.02 to 0.05 mm 0.15 mm

Connecting rods Maximum big-end endfloat. Big-end bearing running clearance wear limit.

0.37 mm 0.12 mm

Camshaft Maximum endfloat. Bearing running clearance. Camshaft run-out (maximum). Bearing diameters: Standard. Undersize.

0.15 mm 0.1 mm 0.01 mm 26.00 mm 25.75 mm

Valves Valve-to-guide wear limit: Inlet. Exhaust. Dimensions - PB, PF, RP and 2E engines: Length. Head diameter: PB, PF and 2E engines. RP engine. Stem diameter. Seat width. Seat angle.

1.0 mm 1.3 mm Inlet 91.00 mm

Exhaust 90.80 mm

40.0 mm 38.00 mm 7.97 mm 2.0 mm 45°

33.00 mm 33.00 mm 7.95 mm 2.4 mm 45°

28

Chapter 1

Valves (continued)

Engine Inlet

Dimensions - KR and 9A engines:* Length. Head diameter. Stem diameter. Valve seat width. 45° Seat angle.. *The exhaust valves on these engines are sodium filled - refer to Section 8 for special disposal instructions PB, PF RP RP Valve timing (at 1 mm lift): 3° 2° 5° Inlet opens after TDC. . 41° 43° 38° Inlet closes before TDC. . 37° 40° 37° Exhaust opens before TDC. . 4° 1° Exhaust closes after TDC. . 3° Valve guides: Maximum valve rock (measured at head): 1.0 mm Inlet. . 1.3 mm Exhaust. .

Exhaust 98.20 mm 28.00 mm 6.94 mm 1.8 mm 45° KR 3° 35° 43° 3°

9A 1° 21° 43° 3°

2E 3° 44' 37' 4°

Cylinder head Maximum gasket face distortion.

0.1 mm

Torque wrench settings - PB, PF, RP and 2E engines

Nm

Ibf ft

45 55

33 41

25 30 80 60 70 80

18 22 59 44 52 59

180

133

90 Angle-tighten a further 180° 65

66 Angle-tighten a further 180° 48

30 Angle-tighten a further 90° 10 45 80 25 25 20 10 30 25 25 20 80

22 Angle-tighten a further 90° 7 33 59 18 18 15 7 22 18 18 15 59

40 60 Angle-tighten a further 180° 23 20 100 10 10

30 44 Angle-tighten a further 180° 17 15 74 7 7

Nm

Ibf ft

Engine-to-transmission bolts: M10. M12. Engine mountings (refer to Fig. 1.10): a. b. c. e. f. Engine bearer to longitudinal member. Crankshaft sprocket bolt: Hexagon head type.. 12-point type: Stage 1. Stage 2. Main bearing cap bolts. Big-end bearing cap nuts: Stage 1.. Stage 2. Timing cover. Timing belt idler (tensioner) pulley. Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt. Intermediate shaft sealing flange bolts. Oil pressure switch. Oil pump mounting bolts. Oil pump suction pipe bolts.. Oil drain plug... Sump bolts. Oil filter mounting bolts. Camshaft bearing caps. Camshaft sprocket bolt. Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1. Stage 2..... Stage 3. Knock sensor bolt (where fitted). Crankshaft front oil seal housing bolts. Flywheel/driveplate bolts (with locking fluid). Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts. Valve cover bolts.

Torque wrench settings - KR and 9A engines (where different to other engine types) Engine mountings (refer to Fig. 1.11): a. b. e. f. g.....

25 30 60 70 80

18 22

44 51 59

•*

Chapter 1 Torque wrench settings - KR and 9A engines (where different to other engine types) - continued Right-hand hydraulic mounting - later models: Engine-to-mounting console. Mounting-to-subframe. Crankshaft front damper pulley. Timing belt upper cover front bolt. Timing belt lower cover front bolt. Timing cover rear plate studs/bolts. Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled threads). Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt. Oil cooler-to-mounting nut. Camshaft bearing caps.. Camshaft sprocket bolt. Oil jets - to cylinder bores/pistons (smear threads with sealant). Flywheel/driveplate bolts (with locking fluid): Stage 1. Stage 2.

1 General description The engine is water-cooled, four-cylinder, in-line, single or double overhead camshaft type (depending on model) and is mounted trans¬ versely at the front of the vehicle. The crankshaft is of five-bearing type, and the centre main bearing shells incorporate separate thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt from the crankshaft sprocket. The belt also drives the intermediate shaft, which is used to drive the distributor, oil pump and on carburettor engines, the fuel pump. The valves are operated from the camshaft through hydraulic bucket type tappets, and the valve clearances are adjusted automatically. On the double overhead camshaft engine, the toothed drivebelt engages over the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the inlet camshaft is driven by a chain linking both camshafts at their rear ends. The timing drivebelt arrangement is similar to that used on the single overhead camshaft engine. The engine has a full-flow lubrication system from a gear type oil pump mounted in the sump, and driven by an extension of the distribu¬ tor, which is itself geared to the intermediate shaft. The oil filter is of the cartridge type, mounted on the left-hand side of the cylinder block. Two oil pressure switches are fitted. On the single overhead camshaft engine, one switch is located on the oil filter mounting (1.8 bar) and the other is located on the rear end face of engine (0.3 bar). On the double overhead camshaft engine, both switches are located on the oil filter mountings, the brown connector switch operates at 0.3 bar, and the white connector switch operates at 1.8 bar.

Engine

29

Nm

Ibf ft

25 60 20 6 10 30 180 65 25 15 65 10

18 44 15 4 7 22 133 48 18

30 Angle-tighten a further 90°

22 Angle-tighten a further 90°

11

48 7

2 Position a suitable container under the sump drain plug. Unscrew and remove the drain plug and allow the engine oil to fully drain. To assist draining, remove the oil filler cap from the valve cover. When the oil has been completely drained from the sump, clean and refit the drain plug. If the plug wo

Engine codes PF and PB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

ci/znl

V. ■3

11.94 Dash panel insert, rev counter, fuel gauge and temperature gauge

r 311

o.

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J

V.

Engine codes PFandPB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

11.96 Switch and sender for multi-function indicator

Engine codes PF and PB from August 1989 Engine code RP from A ugust 1990 Engine code 2E

11.97 Glovebox lamp, cigarette lighter, boot lamp, radio connection, ashtray lamp and cassette storage box lamp

312

J

V11.99 Headlamps, switch for dipped beam, headlamp flasher and sidelamps

Engine codes PF and PB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

11.98 Interior lamp and rear reading lamps

Engine codes PF and PB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

r 313

J

V 11.101 Direction indicators, brake lamps and tail lamps

Engine codes PF and PB from A ugust 1989 Engine code RP from A ugust 1990 Engine code 2E

11.100 Direction indicators, hazard warning system and parking lamp switch

Engine codes PF and PB from A ugust 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

314

V Engine codes PFand PB from August 1989 Engine code FtP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

11.103 Foglamps and reversing lamp

8

Engine codes PF and PB from August 1989 Engine code BP from A ugust 1990 Engine code 2E

11.102 Lighting switch, number plate lamps, rear ashtray lamp and heated windscreen washer jets

——

r 315

8

J

V 11.105 Heated rear window and horn

Engine codes PFandPB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

11.104 Radiator fan and fresh air blower

Engine codes PFandPB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

316

V.

11.106 Windscreen wash/wipe system

Engine codes PFand PB from August 1989 Engine code RP from August 1990 Engine code 2E

11.107 Electric windows

r 317

a

a

CO

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£

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11.107 Electric windows (continued)

11.107 Electric windows (continued)

[D/ll

318

O -O u -O

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11.108 Central locking system

319

82xS

V.

J

Key to all wiring diagrams No

A B C Cl D E El E2 E3 E4 E9 El 5 El 9 E20 E22 E23 E39 E40 E41 E43 E48 E52 E53 E54 E55 E81 E86 El 09 F FI F2 F3 F4 F5 F9 FI 0 F11 FI 8 F22 F25 F26 F34 F35 F59 F60 F66 F81 F87 F93 F114 FI 30 FI 31 FI 32 F133 FI 34 G G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 G6 G8 G17 G19 G23 G32 G39 G40 G42 G54

V.

G55 G61

Description

Battery Starter Alternator Voltage regulator Ignition switch Lighting switch Lighting switch Indicator switch Hazard warning lamp switch Headlamp dip and flasher switch Fresh air blower switch Heated rear window switch Parking lamp switch Instrument/dash panel lighting control Intermittent wiper switch Foglamp switch Electric window isolation switch Electric window switch, front left Electric window switch, right Mirror adjustment switch Mirror adjustment changeover switch Electric window switch, rear left, in door Electric window switch, rear left Electric window switch, rear right, in door Electric window switch, rear right Electric window switch, front right Recall button for multi-function indicator Memory switch for multi-function indicator Brake lamp switch Oil pressure switch Door contact switch, front left Door contact switch, front right Reversing lamp switch Boot lamp switch Handbrake warning switch Door contact switch, rear left Door contact switch, rear right Radiator fan thermo switch Oil pressure switch Throttle valve switch Thermotime switch Brake fluid level warning contact Thermotime switch for inlet manifold pre-heater Central locking switch Idle switch Low coolant level switch Full-throttle switch Fan run-on thermoswitch Diaphragm pressure switch Central locking switch (passenger's door) Pressure switch for fuel pump run-on Positioning unit for central locking, front left Positioning unit for central locking, rear left Positioning unit for central locking, front right Positioning unit for central locking, rear right Fuel gauge sender Fuel gauge Coolant temperature sender Coolant temperature gauge Firing point sender Rev counter Fuel pump Oil temperature sender Ambient air temperature sensor Potentiometer for airflow meter Fuel pump Coolant low level sensor Lambda probe with heater Hall sender Intake air temperature sender Speed sender for multi-function indicator/radio (GALA)/cruise control Pressure sender for multi-function indicator Knock sensor 1

321

No

Description

G62 G66 G68 G69 G74 H HI J2 J4 J5 J6 J17 J30 J31 J59 J81 J88 J114 J119 J120 J138 J139 J159

Coolant temperature sender unit Knock sensor 2 Road speed sender Throttle valve potentiometer CO potentiometer Horn control Dual-tone horn \ Indicator/hazard warning flasher relay Dual-tone horn relay Foglamp relay Voltage stabiliser Fuel pump relay Rear wash/wipe relay Intermittent wash/wipe relay Relief relay (for X-contact) Inlet manifold preheater relay Electronic ignition control unit in plenum chamber, left Oil pressure warning control unit Multi-function indicator Control unit for coolant shortage indicator Control unit for radiator fan run-on Electric windows control unit Control unit for idle speed stabilisation and overrun cut¬ off, above relay panel Control unit for Digifant in plenum chamber, left Current supply for Digifant control unit Mono-Jetronic control unit Fuel pump run-on relay Relay for lambda probe heater Control unit for Motronic in plenum chamber, centre Main beam warning lamp Alternator warning lamp Oil pressure warning lamp Sidelamp warning lamp Turn indicator warning lamp Hazard warning lamp indicator lamp Dual circuit brakes/handbrake warning lamp Heated rear window warning lamp Rear foglamp warning lamp Coolant temperature/low level warning lamp Self-diagnosis warning lamp Twin filament headlamp bulb, left Twin filament headlamp bulb, right Clock lighting Lighting switch lamp Dash insert lamp Ashtray lighting Fresh air controls lamp Cigarette lighter lamp Heated rear window switch lamp Foglamp switch lamp Rear ashtray lamp Electric window switch lamp Cassette storage lamp Parking lamp, left Tail lamp, right Parking lamp, right Tail lamp, left Indicator, front left Indicator, rear left Indicator, front right Indicator, rear right Reversing lamp, left Reversing lamp, right Stop/tail lamp, left Stop/tail lamp, right Ignition coil Warm-up valve Temperature sensor Cold start valve Series resistance for fresh air blower Fuel injector Fuel injector, cylinder No 2 Fuel injector, cylinder No 3

J169 J176 J202 J206 J208 J220 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 K10 K13 K28 K83 LI L2 L8 L9 L10 LI 5 LI 6 L28 L39 L40 L48 L53 L66 Ml M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M8 Ml 6 M17 M21 M22 N N9 N10 N17 N23 N30 N31 N32

322

V

A

Key to all wiring diagrams (continued)

No

Description

No

Description

N33 N34 N35 N41 N42 N51 N65 N70 N71 N73 N80 N113 N114 N115 O P Q R S24 S43 T1 Tla Tib T1 c T1 d T1 e T1 f T1 g T1 h T1 i T1 k Til Tin T1 o Tlr TIs Tit Tlu T1 v T1 w Tlx T2 T2a T2b T2c T2d T2e T2f T2g T2h T2I T2m T2x T2y T2z T3 T3a T3b T3c T3d T3e T3f T3g T3h T3i T3m T3n T3p T3q T4 T4a T4c T4d

Fuel injector, cylinder No 4 Injector series resistance Mirror adjustment solenoid, driver's side TCI-H control unit Mirror adjustment solenoid, passenger's side Inlet manifold preheater element Overrun cut-off valve Final output stage for ignition system Control valve for idle stabilisation Differential pressure regulator Solenoid valve, activated charcoal filter Windscreen washer jets heater Ignition firing point adjustment control valve Solenoid cut-off valve, activated charcoal system Distributor Spark plug connector Spark plug Connection for radio Overheating fuse Electric windows fuse Single connector, various locations Single connector, various locations Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, various locations Single connector, various locations Single connector, various locations Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, various locations Single connector, in plenum chamber, right Single connector, near left headlamp Single connector, behind dash panel, centre Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, behind relay panel Single connector, under rear seat, centre Single connector, near coil Single connector, behind relay panel single connector, various locations Single connector, near ignition coil 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, behind dash panel centre 2-pin connector, near left headlamp 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, left of bulkhead 2-pin connector, right of boot 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 2-pin connector, various locations 3-pin connector, various locations 3-pin connector 3-pin connector, near front interior lamp 3-pin connector, left A-pillar 3-pin connector, right of engine compartment 3-pin connector 3-pin connector 3-pin connector, various locations 3-pin connector, various locations 3-pin connector, left of engine compartment 3-pin connector, driver's door 3-pin connector, various locations 3-pin connector, front passenger's door3-pin connector, front passenger's door 4-pin connector, near exhaust manifold 4-pin connector, left of boot 4-pin connector, behind steering column trim 4-pin connector, under steering column trim

T4e T4f T5 T5a T5b T5c T5e T6a T6b T6e T6m T6n T7a T8 T8a T8b T8c T12 T16 T28 T38 U1 V V2 V5 V7 VI2 V14 VI5 VI7 V25 V26 V27 V59 V60 V69 W3 W6 W11 W12 W15 X Y2 Z1 Z4 Z5 Z20 Z21

4-pin connector, left headlamp 4-pin connector, various locations 5-pin connector, left of bulkhead 5-pin connector, left of bulkhead 5-pin connector, behind steering column trim 5-pin connector, behind steering column trim 5-pin connector 6-pin connector, various locations 6-pin connector, various locations 6-pin connector, left of bulkhead 6-pin connector, in B-pillar 6-pin connector, in B-pillar 7-pin connector, behind steering column trim 8-pin connector, on radio 8-pin connector 8-pin connector 8-pin connector 12-pin connector 16-pin connector 28-pin connector, on dash insert 38-pin connector Cigarette lighter Windscreen wiper motor Fresh air blower Windscreen washer pump Radiator fan Wiper motor Window motor, left Window motor, right Mirror adjustment motor, driver's Mirror adjustment motor, passenger's Window motor, rear left Window motor, rear right Washer pump Throttle valve positioner Central locking pump control unit Boot lamp Glovebox lamp Reading lamp, rear left Reading lamp, rear right Interior lamp Number plate lamp Digital clock Fleated rear window Fleated mirror, driver's Fleated mirror, passenger's Windscreen washer jet heater Windscreen washer jet heater, right

Earth connections

© ©

Battery earth strap Gearbox earth strap

©

Gearbox

©

Cylinder head cover

©

Inlet manifold

©

Cylinder block

©

Near cylinder head/exhaust manifold

©

Relay panel

©

Under rear seat, right

© (so)

Bottom of right A-pillar Left of boot

J

323

Key to all wiring diagrams (continued)

vV

Left of boot

Headlamp loom

(80)

Instrument loom

Headlamp loom

® © (is)

Electric window loom

Mono-Jetronic loom

Digifant loom

Interior lamp loom

Bootlid/tailgate loom

Dual-tone horn loom

(105)

Central locking loom

Motronic loom

© ©

Mono-Jetronic loom

Motronic loom

Headlamp loom

Digifant loom

Positive connections

© © © © ©

Headlamp loom Radiator fan loom Headlamp loom Dual-tone horn loom

(C14)

Heated washer jet loom

(E3)

Mono-Jetronic loom

© © © © © © © (H20)

V.

Instrument loom

Mono-Jetronic loom Motronic loom

© © © © © ©

Diagnostic loom Electric window loom Electric window loom Electric window loom Electric window loom Electric window loom Electric window loom

© (sT)

Interior lamp/door contact switch loom Central locking loom

(S2)

Central locking loom

(S3)

Central locking loom

Mono-Jetronic loom Digifant loom Digifant loom Cable sleeve, injectors Cable sleeve, injectors

© © ©

Rear loom Interior lamp loom Mirror adjustment/heating loom

Diagnostic loom

J

Index reading lamp - 270 rear combination lamps - 269, 270 sidelamps - 269 side marker lamp - 270 sunvisor lamp - 270

A About this manual - 5 Accelerator cable 79 Acknowledgements 2 Aerial - 284 Air cleaner element - 73 Air conditioning system 69, 282 Air intake pre-heating system - 74 Airflow meter plate (K-Jetronic and KE-Motronic systems) Alternator 255, 256, 257 Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - 189 Anti-roll bar - 201 Antifreeze mixture 61 Ashtray illumination bulb 270 Automatic transmission - 160 Axle - 205

B Balljoints (track-rod end) - 218 Battery - 254 Bearings clutch release - 129 crankshaft - 49, 50 wheel- 198,199,201 Bellows (steering gear) - 214 Bleeding brakes - 188 clutch - 125 Blower motor - 280 Body cross-panel - 229 Bodywork and fittings - 222 etseq Bonnet 225 Boot lamp - 270 Boot lid - 231 Brake caliper - 178,184,185 Brake disc - 179 Brake drum - 183 Brake light - 193, 265 Brake pads 176,183 Brake pedal 191 Brake pressure regulator 188 Brake shoes - 179

Braking system

-

M A etseq

Bulbs

ashtray illumination - 270 boot lamp - 270 cigarette illumination - 270 direction indicators - 269 foglamps - 269 glovebox lamp - 270 headlamps - 266 indicators - 269 instrument panel lamp - 270 interior lamp-270 luggage area lamp - 270 number plate lamp - 270

Bumpers - 228

84

c Cables

accelerator - 79 bonnet - 225 clutch - 127 gear selector (automatic transmission) - 162 gear selector (manual transmission) - 157 handbrake - 191 Caliper (braking system) - 178,184,185 Camshaft - 30,43, 48, 54, 55 Capacities - 7 Central locking system - 237, 279 Centre console - 243 Cigarette lighter 270, 274

Clutch -

124 ef seq, 148

Clutch cable - 127 Clutch pedal - 125 Coil spring - 197, 205 Connecting rods - 38, 39, 47, 50 Conversion factors - 14 Coolant temperature sender unit - 65 Cooling fan and motor - 65 Cooling system - 59 ef seq Core plug 67 Courtesy light - 264 Crankshaft 38, 47, 49, 50, 52 Cylinder bores - 48 Cylinder head - 32, 33, 45, 48, 54

D Differential

automatic transmission - 164 manual transmission - 145,148 Digifant system - 87, 94,117 Dimensions - 7 Direction indicators - 269 Disc (braking system) - 179 Distributor - 113,114,121 Doors - 225, 233, 237,238, 239, 241, 243, 264 Draining (cooling system) - 60 Drive flange oil seal - 171 Drivebelt (alternator) - 256 Driveplate - 37,45, 49, 57

Driveshafts

-

166 et seq 183

Drum (braking system)

Index E

J

Electric windows 241,265 Electrical system - 252 etseq Emission control systems - 101 Engine- 26 etseq, 63, 67 Exhaust manifold 103 Exhaust system - 104

Jacking - 8

325

K KE-Motronic system - 92,100,120 K-Jetronic system - 91,97

F Facia - 244, 264 Fault diagnosis - 23 air conditioning system - 70 automatic transmission - 165 braking system - 193 clutch - 131 cooling system - 70 driveshafts - 173 electrical system - 286 engine - 58 fuel, exhaust and emission control systems - 109 ignition system - 123 manual transmission - 159 suspension and steering - 221 FEI system - 119 Filling (cooling system) - 61 Flushing (cooling system) - 60 Flywheel 37, 45, 49, 57 Foglamps - 269 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems - 71 etseq Fuel filter - 77 Fuel gauge sender unit - 79 Fuel injection system - 80 etseq Fuel manifold (fuel injection system) - 87 Fuel pressure accumulator - 78 Fuel pump - 75 Fuel tank 78 Fuses 262

G

L Locks bonnet - 225 boot lid - 231 central locking - 237, 279 door - 225,237 steering column - 263 tailgate - 233 Loudspeakers - 285 Lubricants and fluids 22 Luggage area lamp 270

M Main bearings - 49, 50 Manifolds exhaust - 103 inlet - 101 Master cylinder brakes - 186 clutch - 126 Mirrors 242, 247, 264 Mixture adjustment (fuel injection system) Mono-Jetronic system - 88, 94 Mountings (engine) - 49

N

Gear selector automatic transmission - 162 manual transmission -157 Glovebox - 246, 270

Number plate lamp - 270

o H

Oil pump 38, 49, 52 Oil seals crankshaft - 38, 52 seals drive flange - 171 Output shaft - 140

Handbrake -191,265 Handle (door) - 238 Headlamps - 266, 267 Heater - 67, 69, 280 Hinges - 225 Horns - 278 HT leads - 121

P

I Idle speed adjustment (fuel injection system) Ignition switch 263 Ignition system - 110 et seq Ignition timing 122 Indicators - 269 Injectors (fuel injection system) - 86, 87 Inlet manifold - 101 Input shaft - 138 Instrument panel - 265, 266, 270 Interior lamp - 270 Intermediate shaft - 37, 45, 48, 53 Introduction to the VW Passat - 5

83

Pads (braking system) 176,183 Pedals brake - 191 clutch - 125 Pistons - 38, 39, 47, 48, 50 Power steering - 219 Pressure regulator (braking system)

R Radiator - 61 Radio - 284, 285 Reading lamp - 270

188

83

326 Rear combination lamps - 269, 270 Rear window - 242 Relays - 262 Release bearing and lever - 129 Repair procedures - 11 Reverse gear shaft - 145 Routine maintenance - 16 automatic transmission - 161 bodywork and fittings - 223 braking system - 175 clutch - 125 cooling system - 60 driveshafts- 167 electrical system - 254 engine - 29 fuel, exhaust and emission control systems - 73 ignition system - 113 manual transmission - 134 suspension and steering - 196

s Safety first - 15 automatic transmission - 160 electrical system - 254 ignition system - 113 self-levelling suspension - 208 Seat belts - 248 Seats - 247 Selector mechanism automatic transmission - 162 manual transmission - 149 Self-levelling suspension - 208, 210 Servo unit - 192 Shoes (braking system) - 179 Sidelamps - 269 Side marker lamp - 270 Side window glass - 242 Slave cylinder (clutch) - 126 Spare parts - 10 Spark plugs 121 Speakers - 285 Starter motor - 259 Steering column - 211,214, 263, 264 Steering gear - 214, 218 Steering wheel - 211 Stub axle - 203 Sump - 37, 47, 52 Sunroof - 242, 265, 278 Sunvisor lamp - 270 Suspension and steering - 194 etseq Suspension strut - 196,197, 205 Switches brake light - 193, 265 cooling system thermoswitches -65,66 courtesy light - 264 door mirror - 264

Index electric windows - 265 facia - 264 handbrake - 265 steering column - 264 sunroof - 265

T Tailgate - 232,233,276 Tappets - 30, 43, 48, 54, 55 TCI-H ignition system - 118 Thermostat - 63 Timing belt and sprockets - 30,43,48,56 Tools - 12 Torsion beam axle - 205 Towing - 8 Track-rod end balljoints - 218 Transmission - 40,132 et seq Trim panels - 233,244 Tyres - 220

V Vacuum servo unit - 192 Vehicle identification numbers - 10 Ventilation thermotronic sensor - 280 Vibration damper (driveshaft) - 170

W Washer system - 275,276 Water pump - 63 Weights - 7 Wheel alignment - 220 Wheel bearings - 198,199,201 Wheel changing - 8 Wheel cylinder (braking system) - 183 Wheels - 220 Windows-239, 241, 242 Windscreen - 242,275 Wing - 230 Wiper blades and arms - 274 Wiper motor - 275,276 Wiring diagrams - 286, 287 Wishbone/suspension arm - 199 Working facilities - 12



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Haynes

Models covered by this Manual All VW Passat Saloons 8« Estates (inc. GT & 16V) with petrol engines, including special/limited edition models 1781 cc & 1984 cc Does not cover Diesel engine models

Haynes Manuals explain best • • • • •

3

38345 01647

9

ISBN 1 85010 647 9

Step-by-step procedures with hundreds of illustrations and photos Written from hands-on experience using common tools Colour spark plug diagnosis and bodywork repair Quick and easy fault diagnosis sections _ Wiring diagrams