Haynes Rover Metro 111 & 114 Aervice and Repair Manual 1990 to 1998 1859607675, 9781859607671

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May 1990to 1998 (G to S registration) Petrol _

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Web site: WwWw.haynes.co.uk | Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England

over

Metro & 100 series ervice and Repair Manual Jeremy Churchill and Christopher Rogers Models covered

Rover Metro & 100 series models with 1118cc and 1397cc “K-series” ” engines, manual and automatic gearboxes. Includes 16-valve and special/limited editions (1711 - 280 - 6AD4)

' Does not cover Diesel engined models

sae

shi

ti

© Haynes Publishing 2000 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this in any form or by any. means, photocopying, recording or by any without permission in writing from

book may be reproduced or transmitted electronic or mechanical, including. information storage or retrieval system, the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 767 5

v.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Phd tos

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes Tour Aurore — IBC, 18 Place des Reflets 92975 Paris La Defense 2 Cedex, France Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER METRO/100 Introduction

Page

094

Safety first!

Page

0e5

If your car won’t start

Page

0*6

Jump starting

Page

007

Page

098

Page

0O0e9

Page

0Oe9

Page

0910

,

Roadside Repairs Wheel changing Identifying leaks

‘

Towing

Weekly Checks Introduction Underbonnet check points

Page

010

Engine oil level

Page

Oe11

Coolant level

Page

0Oe11

Page

0012

Screen washer fluid level

Page

012

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0e13

Page

0014

Page

0¢14

Page

0¢15

Brake fluid level

Electrical system

!

|

Wiper blades

é .

Battery

Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures

|

Page 0°16

{

Routine Maintenance and Servicing Maintenance schedule

Maintenance procedures

,

‘

Page

1e4

Page

193

Page

1°7

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems Engine In-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2Be1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

Page

4Ae1

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection models

Page

4Be1

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection models

Page

4Ce1

Emission control systems

Page

4De1

Ignition system - carburettor models

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system - fuel injection models

Page

5Be1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ce1

Page

6¢1

Transmission Clutch Manual gearbox

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Page

8e1

Driveshafts

|

Brakes.and suspension Braking system

Page

991

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11°1

Body electrical systems

Page

12¢1

Body equipment

Page 12°12

Wiring diagrams a=aEeEeaeEeEeEeEeEe—eeeeeee_—__eeeeeeeeee

LCCC

a

SS

REFERENCE -Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification

Page

REFe3

Page

REFe4

Page

REFe5

Radio-cassette Anti-theft system

Page

REFe5

Tools and working facilities e e ee

Page

REF*6

Page

REFe*8

proceduresA a General octetrepaircdc he

Dennen

mrenSInIDEN DO

.

Jacking and vehicle support

MOT test ; Leal ele hlchecks

A

A

a

i

a Fault finding Glossary of technical terms

Index Pa

t

oe

OS

Oe ee

'

SESS

Page REFe12

.

Page REFe19

Page REFe23

. COs

ee

.

004

Introduction

The Rover Metro and 100 Series covered in this Manual is a much-

developed version of the original Austin Metro first launched in October 1980. These models are all fitted with the new “K” series

engine in either 1.1 or 1.4 litre sizes, with either SU KIF carburettors, Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System single-point fuel-injection (MEMS-SPi) or Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System multi-point fuel-injection (MEMS-MPi). The engine is able to accept a full range of emission control systems, up to and including a three-way regulated catalytic converter, and is designed to require the minimum of servicing. The transmission, a joint development by Rover and Peugeot engineers, is of Peugeot design and produced by Rover in manual 4 and 5-speed or automatic continuously variable (CVT) forms. It is fitted

to the left-hand end of the engine. The complete engine/transmission assembly is mounted transversely across the front of the car and drives the front wheels through unequal length driveshafts. The suspension is by the Hydragas system, with the units being

linked front-to-rear on each side, and is heavily revised with wishbonetype lower arms. The suspension components at front and rear are rubber-mounted on separate subframes. Braking is by discs at the front and drums at the rear, with a dualcircuit hydraulic system. The body is available in three or five-door Hatchback versions, with

a wide range of fittings and interior trim depending on the model's

specification.

Your Rover Metro/100 series Manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step

sequence. References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Rover 114GTa

Rover Metro 1.1S

Acknowledgements

-

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and all_those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this

anual.

;

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

:

Safety First! Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a

safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards * Don’t remove the radiator or expansion

tank cap while the engine is hot. ° Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. (( Never

8

f=

venture

under a car which is only supported by a jack. ° Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a’ garage with the doors shut. ¢ Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

¢ Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

(electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

¢ Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

voltage canbe ‘ff, dangerous, especially to... 7 people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

4

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

burns on contact.

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. e Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. e Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks

® Ignition HT

¢ Batteries contain-sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. ¢ The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

poisonous gas if exposed to a-naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin

Fire

hat

The battery

¢ Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a

Asbestos

Electric shock

Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

Poisonous or irritant substances

@i oe

28

Special hazards

sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding

¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle,

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make

0e5

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... Do

sy

Bee

DON’T. | 2 e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component. * Do use eye protection when using power —

tools, and when working under the vehicle.

e« Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to _ protect your bckecig when necessary. * Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the ‘vehicle. ( ¢ Do keep loose clothing and long hair well

out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Do remove. rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating — acequare for the si

My

which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

© Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

¢ Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and:cause injury.

* Don’t leave tools or parts lying aro where someone can trip over them. Mop _up oil and fuel spills at once. -@ Don’t allow children or pets to play iinor near a vehicle being worked on.

|

o6

Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If| your car won’t] start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

If your car won’t] start even though the starter motor turns as normal

L] If it’s amodel with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’. [] Open the bonnet and make sure that the' battery terminals are clean. and tight. L] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jeles starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

L] Is there fuel in the tank? L] Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally

5

-

suffer from damp.)

Check that the HT lead connections. at the distributor are clean and secure.

Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs (arrowed) are clean and secure.

Remove the ignition coil cover and check that the HT and LT lead connections are clean and secure.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition off) and spray them with a waterdispersing spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.

F The ECU problems properly.

wiring plugs may cause if dirty or not connected 5

Roadside repairs

0-7

Jump starting

Py Jump starting willget you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

v

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

The battery has been drained by

Y

repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

:

ae

ee

switched off. -

a The charging system is not working

(lights, heater

or broken, alternator wiring fault or

switched off...

alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

vw _ Ifthe battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle,

the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

v Ensure that all electrical equipment

properly (alternator drivebelt slack

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis

:

:

wipers etc) is

;

Vv Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

vY

Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Tee

s| Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

i u u

On. O O O O ot

2

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

I i

a} Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

I

I

I I i

!I i

II i I

Refer.to Chapter 1, Section 38.

com-

Ignition system - carburettor models

ae

5.2 Disconnecting the distributor wiring note amplifier module screws (arrowed)

distributor vacuum capsule

5 Distributor - removal, overhaul and refitting

Wi

Removal 1 Disconnect 2 Releasing connector illustration). 3 Disconnect illustration).

4 Position

the battery negative terminal. its wire clip, unplug the wiring from the. distributor (see and plug the vacuum pipe (see

the engine so that number

1

cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. 5 Remove the distributor cap (and rotor arm, if required). 6 Mark the relationship of the distributor body to the cylinder head, using a scriber or similar (see illustration).

5.7 Unscrewing distributor mounting bolts - remaining bolt arrowed

7 Unscrew the distributor mounting bolts and withdraw the distributor (see illustration). Do not disturb the crankshaft setting while the distributor is removed, or rotate the distributor shaft (unless the unit is to be overhauled). 8 Remove the distributor body sealing O-ring which must be renewed whenever it is

disturbed (see illustration). Overhaul 9 Remove the distributor and withdraw the cap and rotor arm,

if not already removed

(see illustration). 10 Remove the amplifier remove its gasket and

module, then withdraw the

connector.

11 Remove the screws and separate the upper housing from the lower. 12 Remove the clamp ring and pick-up coil from the upper housing. 13 Remove the circlip (and first thrustwasher, if fitted) from the underside of the upper housing, disengage the stator pack from the vacuum capsule arm and withdraw. the stator pack, followed by the (second) thrustwasher. 14 Remove its retaining screw and withdraw the vacuum capsule. Note the numbers stamped on the capsule’s mounting bracket; the eight-digit number is the Lucas part number, but the three remaining numbers indicate the capsule’s design characteristics 5.9 Exploded view of the Lucas 67 DM4 distributor

1 2 3 4 5

Distributor cap Rotor arm Upper housing Vacuum capsule Stator pack, including thrust washer(s) and circlip 6 Pick-up coil 7 Clamp ring

8 Distributor shaft, including reluctor and advance assembly 9 Thrust washer

C

i

CG

; é

a

5.8 Removing distributor - always renew O-ring (arrowed)

10 Lower housing 11 Sealing O-ring 12 Drive coupling, including thrust washer, spring and roll. pin 13 Connector and gasket 14 Amplifier module

"i

:

:

5Ae3

ee

5.6 Marking relationship of distributor body to cylinder head

5Ae4

Ignition system - carburettor models

the first and second numbers show (in mm Hg) d) Refit the pick-up coil to the upper housing the pressure at which vacuum advance begins and centre its terminals in the aperture and reaches its maximum, while the third before fitting the clamp ring so that its shows the capsule’s total advance in cut-out is over the aperture. (distributor) degrees. Check that the capsule is e) Refit the upper housing to the lower, the correct one for the car (see Specifications). tighten the screws lightly and check that 15 Check the distributor shaft endfloat; if it the shaft is free to rotate - there must be seems excessive, seek expert advice. no sign of the reluctor poles touching the 16 Remove the spring from the distributor stator pack arms, as either can easily be drive coupling, then use a scriber or similar to bent - before tightening the screws mark the relationship of the coupling to the securely. shaft; it is essential that the coupling is refitted f) Refit the connector and its gasket. correctly in relationship to the rotor arm on g) Refit the amplifier module and the rotor refitting. Release the ,distributor shaft by arm. driving out the retaining roll pin and removing h) Fit a new sealing O-ring to the distributor the coupling; note the thrustwasher behind it. body. 17 Withdraw the shaft, noting the thrustwasher underneath the centrifugal advance assembly. Be very careful not to Normal procedure bend any of the reluctor poles and do not attempt to remove it from the shaft. 22 First check that number 1 cylinder is at 18 The advance assembly and shaft can be TDC, then rotate the rotor arm to align with lubricated, but if any part of the assembly is the distributor cap’s number 1 terminal. Fit a found to be worn or damaged the complete new sealing O-ring to the distributor body and distributor must be renewed; individual lubricate it with a smear of engine oil. replacement parts are not available. 23 Aligning the marks made on removal, refit 19 Clean and examine all components; if any the distributor. If necessary, rotate the rotor are found to be worn or damaged, seek arm very slightly to help the distributor drive expert advice. A repair kit of sundry parts is dogs locate in the camshaft slots; they are available separately, also the coupling offset and so will fit only one way. Refit the assembly, the pick-up coil and vacuum mounting bolts, tightening them to the -Capsule, as well as the rotor arm and the specified torque wrench setting. distributor cap; if any other parts are worn or 24 Refit the distributor cap, ensuring‘it is damaged, the complete distributor must be correctly located, then reconnect the HT renewed. leads. 20 In addition to the checks described in 25 Reconnect the vacuum pipe and _Chapter 1, use an ohmmeter or continuity distributor wiring. tester to check that there is no continuity 26 Check, and adjust if necessary, the between any of the cap’s terminal segments. ignition timing. Similarly, check that there is no continuity

Refitting

between the rotor arm body and its brass segment; note that the arm has a built-in resistance. 21 Re-assembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, noting the following points. a) Apply a few drops of suitable oil to the advance assembly pivots and springs and to the shaft, upper housing and stator pack bearing surfaces.

b) Using the marks made on dismantling, be very careful to ensure that the coupling is located correctly on the shaft end(in relationship to the rotor arm) before driving in the roll pin to secure it, then ensure that the spring is fitted over the roll pin ends. c) Grease the vacuum capsule arm before refitting it, use grease to stick the thrustwasher to the underside of the upper housing, then refit and connect the Stator pack and vacuum capsule, followed by the remaining thrustwasher, if fitted, and circlip; tighten the capsule retaining screw securely.

Full procedure 27 If a new distributor is to be fitted (or no marks were made on removal), the following

6

Ignition amplifier module &

- removal and refitting

AN

=

Warning: Do not attempt to

open or repair the module; if it is faulty, it must be renewed

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiring connector from the distributor.

3 Remove the two screws and withdraw the module, taking care not to damage the terminal pins.

4 Check carefully that the mating surfaces of the module and distributor are completely’ clean and unmarked and that the pick-up coil terminal pins are clean and a secure fit in the module; if in doubt, it is permissible to remove the connector and its gasket and to gently squeeze together the female terminals to improve the fit. The pick-up coil+to-connector and connector-to-module connections must be checked with particular care if the module is thought to be faulty; similarly, check, clean and tighten (if necessary) the distributor wiring connector-to-module terminals. It is essential that there is good electrical contact between the module and the distributor and at all four’ LT wiring connections mentioned above.

Refitting

5 On refitting, apply a smear of heatconducting silicone grease to the mating) surfaces of the module and the distributor; the : correct grease can be obtained from Rover’

dealers under Part Number BAU 5812, but if ' this is not available either a heat-sink: compound, or an anti-seize compound, will serve as an adequate substitute. 6 Check that the terminal pins are not bent or ’ damaged and that they engage correctly with | the module’s connections.

procedure will produce a basic setting which

7 Tighten the module screws to the specified |

will enable the engine to start and run while the ignition timing is accurately set. 28 Remove the cylinder head cover and position the engine so that number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, then rotate the crankshaft slightly anti-clockwise until the flywheel mark aligns with the appropriate scale mark (see Specifications), so that the engine is in the firing position. 29 Rotate the distributor rotor arm to align with the distributor cap’s number 1 terminal.

torque wrench setting; then reconnect the: distributor wiring and battery.

30 Refit the distributor, positioning its body so that the mounting bolts are in the middle of their respective slots. Refit the cylinder head cover and connect the HT leads to the cap and spark plugs, ensuring that the leads are correctly routed and secured in their guides and that the firing order is followed. 31 Check, and adjust if necessary, the ignition timing.

Removal

1 The coil is mounted on the left-hand side of'

the engine compartment, between the battery ' and the left-hand headlamp unit. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 3 Remove the two retaining screws securing| the cold air inlet duct to the body front panel| and move the hose clear of the HT coil. 4 Peel .back the rubber .cover, then: disconnect the HT lead. Note which terminals ; they are connected to and disconnect the two | pairs of LT wires from the coil (see: illustration).

Ignition system - carburettor models procedure; tighten the screws specified torque wrench setting.

8 Crankshaft sensor and ‘reluctor ring - removal, inspection andrefitting

5Ae5 to

their

Reluctor ring

WK 9

Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; tighten the screws to their specified torque wrench setting.

Removal Crankshaft sensor 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Disconnect the sensor wiring at

its connector plug on the flywheel rear cover plate, then undo the retaining screw to release

7.4 Peel back the cover to expose the HT coil connections 5 Slacken the two coil mounting screws, noting the location of the suppressor, and |withdraw the coil; slacken its clamp screw, if required, to release it from its bracket.

Testing 6 Testing of the coil consists of using a multimeter set to its resistance function, or a low-wattage test lamp, to check the primary (LT “+ ” to “-” terminals) and secondary (LT “+" to HT lead terminals) windings for continuity. If the meter is used the resistance of either winding can be checked and compared with the specified value. Note that since the readings obtained will vary slightly with temperature, the coil should be tested (where possible) after the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes so that the coil is at its normal operating temperature. 7 Using an ohmmeter. or continuity tester, check that there is no continuity between the HT lead termina! and the coil body. 8 If the coil is faulty it must be renewed.

Refitting 9 Refitting procedure.

= iostil

is the reverse

of the removal

the wiring lead (see illustration). 3 Remove the two retaining screws and withdraw the sensor from the cylinder

9 Thermostatically-operated

a

a

- vacuum switch - removal and eS

refitting

=

pe

EN

Removal

Inspection

1 Either drain the cooling system, or be prepared for some loss of coolant as the switch is unscrewed. 2 Access to the thermostat housing is possible with the inlet manifold and carburettor in place, but is made much easier if these are first removed. 3 Disconnect and plug the vacuum pipes. 4 Unscrew the switch and withdraw it, then plug the opening to prevent the entry of dirt; if the cooling system has not been drained, work quickly to minimise coolant loss. —

Crankshaft sensor

Refitting

6 Check the sensor for obvious signs of wear or damage and renew it if any are found. As no data is available to enable the sensor to be tested, if it is thought to be faulty it can be checked only by the substitution of a new

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points. a) Wipe clean the threads of the switch and of the thermostat housing. b) If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it whenever it is disturbed to prevent leaks; if no sealing washer is fitted, apply a

block/crankease.

Reluctor ring Note: While a reluctor ring is fitted to the flywheel of carburettor engines, it has no function on these models but should be checked whenever the flywheel is removed to ensure that its mountings are securely fastened 4 Remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel. 5 Remove the setscrews securing the reluctor ring to the flywheel and withdraw it (see illustration).

component.

;

Reluctor ring 7 Check the ring for any signs of wear or damage and renew it if any are found.

Refitting Crankshaft sensor 8 Refitting

is the reverse

of the removal

smear of sealant to the switch threads. c) Tighten the switch securely and reconnect the vacuum pipes. d) Refit any components removed to improve access. e) Refill or top-up the cooling system.

8.5 Reluctor ring-to-flywheel setscrews (arrowed)

5Ae6

Ignition system - carburettor models

10 Electronic control unit (ECU)

> removal and refitting

4 lf the engine turns over at normal speed but will not start, check the HT circuit by connecting a timing light (following the manufacturer’s instructions) and turning the engine over on the starter motor; if the light flashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs, so these should be checked first. If the light does not flash, check the HT leads themselves followed by the distributor cap, carbon brush and rotor arm but note also the tests given in Section 5, paragraph 20 of this Chapter). 5 If there is a spark, check the fuel system for faults. 6 If there is still no spark, check the voltage at the ignition HT coil “+” terminal (white wires); it should be the same as the battery voltage (ie, at least 11.7 volts). If the voltage at the coil is more than 1 volt less than that at the battery, check the feed back through the fusebox and ignition switch to the battery and its earth until the fault is found. 7 If the feed to the HT coil is sound, check the coil’s primary winding (and also the secondary winding, while the opportunity exists) as described in Section 7, paragraph 6. Renew the coil if faulty but be careful to check carefully the condition of the LT connections themselves before doing so, to ensure that the fault is not due to dirty or poorly-fastened

WILE

Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B.

11 Ignition system -testing

WHE Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. Always switch off the ignition before disconnecting or connecting any component and when using a multi-meter to check resistances. Any voltmeter or multi-meter used to test ignition - system components must have an impedance of 10 M ohms or greater

General 1 The components of electronic ignition systems are normally very reliable; most faults are far more likely to be due to loose or dirty connections or to “tracking” of HT voltage due to dirt, dampness or damaged insulation than to the failure of any of the system’s components. Always check all wiring thoroughly before condemning an electrical component and work methodically to eliminate all other possibilities before deciding that a particular component is faulty. 2 The old practice of checking for a spark by holding the live end of an HT lead a short distance away from the engine is not recommended; not only is there a high risk of a powerful electric shock, but the HT coil or amplifier module will be damaged. Similarly, never try to “diagnose” misfires by pulling off

one HT lead at a time.

Engine will not start

connectors.

8 If the HT coil is in good condition, the fault is probably within the amplifier module or distributor pick-up coil. So that the operation of these two can be checked quickly, Rover dealers have a Neon indicator, which when connected across the HT coil’s LT terminals, flashes every time the amplifier triggers an HT pulse in the coil if the ignition is switched on and the engine is turned over on the starter. Owners can substitute a low-wattage bulb; if the bulb flickers or flashes when the engine is turned over, the amplifier and distributor are

3 If the engine either will not turn over at all, or only turns very slowly, check the battery and starter motor. Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals (meter positive probe to

sound.

reading obtained is less than approximately 9.5 volts, check the battery, starter motor and charging system..

the amplifier module; owners should note,

9 If the amplifier and distributor are sound, and the entire LT circuit is in good condition, the fault, if it lies in the ignition system, must battery positive terminal), disconnect the. be in the HT circuit components. These ignition coil HT lead from the distributor cap should be checked carefully, as outlined and earth it, then note the voltage reading above. obtained while turning over the engine on the 10 If the indicator or bulb does not flash, the starter for (no more than) ten seconds. If the fault is in either the distributor pick-up coil or however, that by far the commonest cause of

failure of either of these is a poor connection,

either between the amplifier module and the” distributor body or in the LT circuit wiring)

connections themselves.

If a voltmeter or)

multi-meter is available, check the feed to the’ amplifier (the voltage reading obtained should. be the same as that measured at the HT coil”

LT “+” terminal), then check that there is no” meeetebe resistance between the amplifier module fixing screws and engine earth and that there is no continuity between either module terminal and earth. If any doubt exists as to the condition of the connections, remove the module, clean and check carefully”

the module earth and the connections and, if necessary, improve their fit. If these checks fail to correct the fault, measure the resistance of the pick-up coil, comparing it with the specified value; renew the. coil if the reading obtained differs significantly from that given. If the fault still exists, the only solution is to try the effect.of renewing the amplifier module.

Engine misfires 11 An irregular misfire suggests either a loose connection or intermittent fault on the primary circuit, or an HT fault on the coil side of the rotor arm.

12 With the ignition switched off, check carefully through the system ensuring that all connections are clean and securely fastened. If the equipment is available, check the LT circuit as described in paragraphs 6 to 10 above. 13 Check that the HT coil, the distributor cap and the HT leads are clean and dry. Check the leads themselves and the spark plugs (by substitution, if necessary), then check the distributor cap, carbon brush and rotor arm. 14 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due to a fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or spark plugs. Use a timing light (paragraph 4 above) .

to check whether HT voltage is present at all

leads.

:

15 If HT voltage is not present on any particular lead, the fault will be in that lead or

in the distributor cap. If HT is present on all leads, the fault will be in the spark plugs; check and renew them if there is any doubt ' about their condition. 16 If no HT is present, check the HT coil; its secondary windings may be breaking down under load.

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Chapter 5 Part B: Ignition system - fuel injection models Contents Crankshaft sensor and reluctor ring - removal, inspection and eaTCL MPa PPA re NPS nop ars, ida /

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5.2 Selector lever and housing removal

A Lever knob securing screw B Housing securing screw C Indicator light

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and

Vehicle Support”). 2 Move

the gear selector lever to the “L”

position and remove the lever knob securing screw (see illustration). Pull the knob from the lever. 3 Detach the selector lever housing by removing its rear securing screw and then unclipping it from the cassette storage box.

Lift the housing carefully and release the indicator light bulb from its housing. 4 Release the cassette storage box by removing its two securing screws.

5 Gain access to the selector cable abutment bracket by lifting the carpet over the cassette storage box retaining bracket. 6 Loosen the selector cable locknut and release the cable from the abutment bracket (see illustration). 7 Release the cable from the selector lever balljoint. 8 Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the heat shield from the catalytic converter. 9 Remove the cable end-rod to selector lever securing nut (see illustration) and pull the rod from the lever.

H28728

5.6 Selector cable locknut (A) and abutment bracket (B)

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Automatic transmission squarely into place until it seats on its locating shoulder by using a piece of tubing (such as a socket) which bears only on the seals hard outer edge. 411 Before refitting the driveshaft, check its seal rubbing surface for signs of burrs, Note: The following text describes only the scratches or other damage which may have renewal of those oil seals which can be caused the seal to fail in the first place. It may removed without dismantling the be possible to polish away faults of this sort transmission. If oil leaks appear from any seal using fine abrasive paper. Thoroughly clean not mentioned here, or from any of the joint the driveshaft to prevent the entry of dirt into surfaces, the transmission must be removed the transmission during reassembly. Apply a from the vehicle and dismantled. thin film of grease to the oil seal lips and to the Differential (driveshaft) seals driveshaft shoulder. 12 Ensure that the circlip fitted to the inboard Removal end of the driveshaft is in good condition and 1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off is located securely in its groove. the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. 13 Taking care not to damage the seal lips, Jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it insert the driveshaft into the transmission securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and _ pressing it firmly into place until the circlip Vehicle Support”). engages. Check that the circlip is properly 2 Remove the appropriate roadwheel. engaged by grasping the shaft firmly and 3 Release the underwing splash shield by trying to pull it out of its location. removing its three securing screws. 14 Refer to Chapter 10 and reconnect the 4 Position a suitable container of at least 5 lower and upper hub and trackrod balljoints. litres capacity under the appropriate 15 Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the brake driveshaft to catch fluid spillage. caliper. 5 Release the driveshaft from the differential 16 Jack up the wheel hub, remove the housing by levering them apart. wooden wedge and lower the hub again, then 6 Remove the two brake caliper to hub refit the underwing shield. * securing bolts and carefully move the caliper 17 Fit the roadwheel and tighten its securing to one side, tying it in position so that no nuts to the torque loading specified in strain is placed on the brake hose. Chapter 10. 7 Position a jack beneath the wheel hub and 18 Lower the vehicle to the ground and ‘raise the hub to allow a wooden wedge to be fitted between the suspension arm and the replenish the transmission fluid. After running subframe. Lower the suspension onto the the vehicle, check around the renewed seal wedge and remove the jack (see illustration). for leakage. 8 Refer to Chapter 10 and disconnect the Input shaft seal track rod balljoint and the upper and lower hub balljoints, allowing the wheelhub and Removal driveshaft assembly to be removed. 19 Remove the transmission. 9 Clean the transmission casing around the 20 Clean the transmission casing around the seal location and using a screwdriver, lever seal location and using a screwdriver, lever the differential seal from position whilst taking the input shaft seal from position whilst taking care not to scratch its housing (see care not to scratch its housing. illustration).

7

Oil seals - renewal

VIVK

H28729 5.9 Selector cable removal A Cable end rod to selector lever

securing nut B Cable end rod

C Rubber gaiter D Cable rod locknut E Anti-vibration rubbers

10 Ease the rubber gaiter back to expose the cable rod locknut and loosen the nut. 11 Separate the anti-vibration rubbers and release the cable from its abutment bracket. '12 Use a screwdriver to prise the cable grommet from the floor of the vehicle and withdraw the cable.

Refitting 13 Refitting the selector cable is a reversal of the removal procedure. When fitted, adjust the cable as follows:

Adjustment 14 With the front of the vehicle jacked up and supported securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”),.move the gear selector lever to the “P” position. 15 Loosen the cable end-rod to selector lever . securing nut and move the selector lever to its fully forward position. 16 Check that the “park” miachanleti is properly engaged by trying to rotate each front roadwheel in its driving direction. 17 Tighten the cable end-rod to selector lever securing nut to the specified torque loading and lower the vehicle to the ground. 18 Carry out a final check for correct cable adjustment by ensuring that the engine will only start with the gear selector lever in the “P” and “N” positions. Ensure that forward drive is achieved with the lever in positions “D” and “L” and reverse drive with the lever in

Fitting

Fitting

10 Clean the seal housing and lubricate the new seal with clean transmission fluid. Fit the seal into its housing (lip innermost), driving it

21 Clean the input shaft and seal housing. Lubricate the new seal with clean transmission fluid.

'

7.7 Wedge a wooden spacer (arrowed)

7. 9 Laverna the differential eeal from

between the suspension arm and subframe

position

position “R”.

Refer to Part A of this Chapter; the procedure is essentially the same. After running the vehicle, check around the cable housing for fluid leakage.

Automatic transmission

8Dipstick tube seal - renewal

aa

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H28730

7.28 Removing the selector lever from its shaft ?

A Lever securing nut B Selector lever .C Selector shaft seal

22 Fit the seal over the input shaft and into its housing (lip innermost), driving it squarely into place until it seats on its locating shoulder by using a piece of tubing (such as a socket) which bears only on the seals hard outer edge. 23 Refit the transmission.

Selector shaft seal Removal 24 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ‘ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Ensure that the gear selector lever is in the “P” position. Jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 25 Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the front pipe of the exhaust system. 26 Remove the cable end-rod to selector lever securing nut and pull the rod from the lever. 27 Remove the three bolts which secure the flywheel lower cover plate to the eh ig be and remove the plate. 28 Unscrew the nut securing the selector lever to the selector shaft. Remove the washer and release the lever to expose the shaft seal

1 Thoroughly clean the dipstick tube and the area where it enters the transmission casing. 2 Withdraw the dipstick from its tube. Remove the tube-to-transmission casing securing bolt and withdraw the tube from the casing. 3 Carefully remove the O-ring seal from its location in the transmission casing. Under no circumstances must foreign matter be allowed to enter the transmission casing. Discard the O-ring. 4 Clean the end of the dipstick tube and its mating face in the transmission casing. Lubricate each face with clean transmission fluid and fit a new O-ring over the end of the tube. 5 Taking care not to damage the O-ring, refit the dipstick tube into the casing and push it fully home. Fit and tighten the tube securing bolt to the specified torque loading.

6 Clean and refit the dipstick. After running the vehicle, check around the base of the tube

for fluid leakage.

9 Secondary cover seals -

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3 Release the splash shield from the rear of the wheel arch by removing its three securing screws. 4 Detach the charcoal canister from its mounting bracket on the battery tray and ease it to one side. 5 Release the battery positive lead and the main feed wires to the fusebox from their respective clips on the battery tray. 6 Detach the fusebox from its mounting bracket by depressing its two retaining clips and then ease the fusebox and wiring harness to one side.

7 Disconnect

the electrical

lead from the

horn, unscrew the two retaining bolts and remove the horn. 8 Remove the five battery tray retaining bolts, remove the fusebox mounting bracket and then the battery tray. 9 Position a jack beneath the engine to support it, protecting the engine from damage by placing a block of wood between it and the

jack. 10 Remove the two bolts securing the transmission mounting bracket to its mounting and loosen the two bolts securing _ the mounting to its support member (see illustration). 11 Remove the four bolts securing the support member to the subframe and then remove the support member and mounting assembly from the vehicle (see illustration). 12 Raise the engine/transmission to gain

WHE

Removal 1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Remove the battery and jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle

stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Remove the left-hand front roadwheel.

access to the lower rear secondary cover securing bolt, then clean the secondary cover and the area of transmission casing surrounding it. 13 Remove the four cover securing bolts and remove the cover (see illustration). 14 Remove and discard the one split-ring and two O-rings from inside the cover.

(see illustration). 29 Clean the casing around the seal location and using a screwdriver, carefully lever the

shaft seal from position whilst taking care not to scratch the casing.

Fitting - 30 Clean the selector lever, shaft and seal housing. Lubricate the new seal with clean _ transmission fluid and slide it over the shaft .

_ 31 Push the seal squarely into place until it : seats in its housing by using a piece of tubing (such as a socket). Refitting the remaining components is a $2 ‘reversal of the removal moceure, noting the

following points:

33 Where applicable, tighten nuts and bolts

to the specified torque loading figures.

84 Ensure that the selector cable is correctly

adjusted before lowering the vehicle to the y ground and replenishing the transmission fluid. After running the. vehicle, check around | the renewed seal for leakage.

H28732

H28731

9.10 Remove the two bolts securing the mounting bracket to its mounting (A) and loosen the two bolts securing the mounting to its support member (B)

9.11 Remove the four bolts (arrowed) securing the support member to the subframe

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Automatic transmission 16 Refitting the remaining components is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points: 17 Tighten the transmission mounting bolts to the specified torque loading of 45 Nm. 18 Tighten the battery tray and horn mounting bolts to a torque loading of 9 Nm. 19 Tighten the roadwheel securing nuts to the torque loading specified in Chapter 10. 20 Lower the vehicle to the ground and replenish the transmission fluid. After running the vehicle, check around the fluid pan for leakage.

H28733

10.15 Tighten the fluid pan securing bolts in the sequence shown

9.13 Remove the four bolts (arrowed) securing the secondary cover

Fitting

8 Disconnect

15 Thoroughly clean the secondary cover and its mating face on the transmission. Lubricate the new O-rings with clean transmission fluid and fit them to the cover. Fit . anew split-ring.

the electrical

lead

from

the

11 Fluid cooler - removal and

refitting

Wh

horn, unscrew the two retaining bolts and remove the horn.

9 Remove the five battery tray retaining bolts, | Removal remove the fusebox mounting bracket and then the battery tray. 1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off 10 Position a jack beneath the flywheel the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. 16 Position the cover against the Disconnect the battery earth lead and jack up housing to support the engine/transmission, transmission and refit its securing bolts, the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely taking care to prevent the housing being tightening them to the specified torque on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle damaged by the jack. loading. ; Support”). 411 Remove the two bolts securing the 17 Refitting the remaining components is a 2 Remove the alternator. transmission mounting bracket to its reversal of the removal procedure, noting the 3 Remove the cooler pipes to radiator mounting and loosen the two bolts securing following points: securing bolt and bracket. the mounting to its support member, see 18 Tighten the transmission mounting and 4 Place a container beneath the fluid cooler illustration 9.10. support member bolts to the specified torque to catch any spillage of fluid and unscrew 12 Raise the engine/transmission to gain loading of 45 Nm. each cooler pipe union. Note: Each fluid’ access to the fluid pan securing bolts. 19 Tighten the battery tray and horn cooler boss must be firmly held as the pipe . Working in the reverse of the tightening mounting bolts to a torque loading of 9 Nm. union is unscrewed (see illustration). Move sequence (see illustration 10.15), loosen and 20 Tighten the roadwheel securing nuts to each pipe clear of the cooler unit. remove the pan retaining bolts. the torque loading specified in Chapter 10. 5 Prevent ingress of dirt into the cooling. 13 Ease the fluid pan away from the 21. Lower the vehicle to the ground and system by plugging the exposed connections. transmission and discard the gasket. check the transmission fluid level. After f 6 Remove the two bolts from each of the two | Fitting j running the vehicle, check around the cover radiator top mounting brackets and remove: _ for leakage. the brackets (see illustration). 14 Thoroughly clean the fluid pan and its 7 Remove the two nuts securing the fluid! mating face on the transmission. Lubricate the cooler to the radiator, tilt the top of the: ‘new gasket with clean transmission fluid and 10 Fluid pan gasket - renewal radiator forward and remove the two bolts. fit it to the fluid pan. Under no circumstances _. 8 Lift the radiator with the cooler to release: -must adhesive be used on the gasket. the cooler unit from its lower mounting.. 15 Position the fluid pan against the Separate the cooler unit from the radiator and! transmission and refit its securing bolts, remove it from the vehicle. tightening them to the specified torque loading in the sequence shown (see Refitting i illustration). 9 Refitting the fluid cooler is a reversal of the:

WHE Removal 1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Remove the battery and jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle stands (See “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Remove the left-hand front roadwheel. 3 Release the splash shield from the rear of the wheel arch by removing its three securing

Screws. 4 Drain the transmission fluid. 5 Detach the charcoal canister from its mounting bracket on the battery tray and ease it to one side. 6 Release, the battery positive lead and the main feed wires to the fusebox from their respective clips on the battery tray. 7 Detach the fusebox from its mounting bracket by depressing its two retaining clips and then ease the fusebox and wiring harness to one side. \

removal points:

11.4 Fluid cooler pipe union locations (arrowed)

procedure,

noting

the following;

11.6 Remove the two bolts (arrowed) from) each of the two radiator top mounting

brackets

;

Automatic transmission 12 Replenish the fluid level and after operating the system, check each disturbed connection for leaks.

H28736

13 Primary cover - removal and refitting

NY

10 Before reconnecting the pipes, ensure that the connections are unplugged and their mating surfaces cleaned. 11 Fit each pipe to the fluid cooler but do not fully tighten until the pipes have been secured to the radiator. Tighten the pipe unions to the specified torque loading. 12 Refit the alternator, then lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery. 13 Replenish the fluid level and after operating the system, check each disturbed connection for leaks.

_ 12 Fluid cooler hoses - removal and refitting

1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Disconnect the battery earth lead and jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 If removing the return hose, then remove the alternator. 3 Remove the cooler pipes to radiator securing bolt and bracket. 4 Place a container beneath the fluid cooler to catch any spillage of fluid and unscrew each cooler pipe union. Note: Each fluid cooler boss must be firmly held as the pipe union is unscrewed. 5 Unscrew each hose union from its adapter in the transmission casing and remove each hose assembly from the vehicle. 6 Prevent ingress of dirt into the cooling system by plugging all exposed connections.

Refitting 7

Before

refitting

either

hose

assembly,

ensure that all connections are unplugged and clean the mating surfaces of each connection. 8 Fit each hose to the transmission casing and tighten to the specified torque loading. 9 Fit each pipe to the fluid cooler but do not

_ fully tighten at this stage.

10 Align the cooler pipes to the radiator, refit - the retaining bracket and secure it with the - bolt. Now tighten the fluid cooler unions to the specified torque loading. 11 If necessary, refit the alternator, then _ lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery.

a

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). 2 Remove the left-hand front roadwheel. 3 Release the splash shield from the rear of the wheel arch by removing its three securing

screws.

Refitting

4 Clean the primary cover and the area of transmission casing surrounding it. 5 Release the three cover securing brackets and remove the cover (see illustration).

Refitting 6 Thoroughly clean the primary cover and its mating face on the transmission. Position the cover against the transmission and refit its securing bolts with brackets, tightening them to the specified torque loading. 7 Refitting the remaining components is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points: 8 Tighten the roadwheel securing nuts to the torque loading specified in Chapter 10. 9 Lower the vehicle to the ground and check the transmission fluid level. After running the vehicle, check around the cover for leakage.

HUE

Removal

lamp switch - removal and refitting

1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch (see illustration). 3 Position a container beneath the switch to catch any fluid spillage and unscrew the switch from the transmission -housing. Recover and discard the O-ring.

Removal

13.5 Primary cover securing screws and brackets (arrowed)

14 Starter inhibitor/reversing

EN SN

7Be7

4 Before fitting the switch, clean both the switch and its mating surface on the transmission casing.

5 Lightly lubricate the switch thread with clean transmission fluid and fit a new O-ring. 6 Fit the switch and tighten it to the specified torque loading. 7 Reconnect the multi-plug and check the operation of the switch. The starter motor must only operate in positions “P” and “N”, and the reversing lights must only come on in position “R”. Adjustment can only be made to the selector cable, the switch itself is not adjustable. 8 Lower the vehicle to the ground and check the transmission fluid level, replenishing it if

necessary. After running the vehicle, check around the switch for fluid leakage.

14.2 Removing the starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch

A Multiplug connection B O-ring C Cable securing bracket

7Be8

Automatic transmission

H28738 15.8 Remove the fusebox lid to expose the 30 amp fuse (arrowed)

45 Transmission -removaland

vetting:

.

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x

Note: /f the transmission is being removed for repair by a specialist, make sure that the specialist does not wish to test the transmission whilst it is still in the vehicle.

Removal 1 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. Remove the bonnet and battery. 2 Detach the charcoal canister from its mounting bracket on the battery tray and ease it to one side. 3 Release the battery positive lead and the main feed wires to the fusebox from their respective clips on the battery tray. 4 Detach the fusebox from its mounting bracket by depressing its two retaining clips and then ease the fusebox and wiring harness

’ to one side. 5 Disconnect

the electrical lead from the horn, unscrew the two retaining bolts and remove the horn. ’ 6 Remove the five battery tray retaining bolts, remove the fusebox mounting bracket and then the battery tray. 7 Disconnect the HT lead from the distributor

cap and the clip on the air inlet hose. 8 Remove the fusebox lid and unplug the 30 amp fuse (see illustration).

15.18

Disconnect the oxygen sensor

multiplug from the engine wiring harness (arrowed) 9 Detach the battery lead from the. fusebox by depressing its retainer then sliding its connector out of the box. 10 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 11 Release the air inlet hose from its adapter behind the left-hand headlamp by removing the two securing screws. Remove the hose.

12 Loosen the two bolts holding the HT coil to the vehicle body, ease the coil free and position it to one side. 13 Release the speedometer cable from its housing on the transmission casing by first pulling out its securing pin and then pulling

out the cable. Move the cable to one side. 14 Go to the throttle end of the kickdown cable and loosen the cable adjuster locknuts. 15 Detach the cable inner from the throttle cam. and the cable adjuster from its mounting bracket. 16 Place a container beneath the radiator bottom hose, loosen the hose retaining clip and pull the hose off its connector, allowing the coolant to drain.

17 Release the radiator top hose from the cylinder head. 18 Locate the oxygen sensor multiplug on the engine wiring harness (see illustration)

and disconnect it. 19 Remove

the exhaust system front pipe

from the exhaust manifold. 20 Jack up the front of the vehicle, supporting it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”), and remove the starter motor.

the transmission casing (A) and the single bolt securing the steady bar to the vehicle body (B)

21. Drain the transmission fluid. 22 Remove both roadwheels. 23 Release both underwing splash shields by removing the three securing screws from each one. Remove each wheelhub and driveshaft assembly as follows: a) Position a container under the driveshaft to catch any residual fluid spillage. b) Release the driveshaft from the differential housing by levering them apart. c) Remove the two brake caliper to hub securing bolts and carefully move the _ caliper to one side, tying it in position so that no strain is placed on the brake hose. d) Po&ition a jack beneath the wheel hub and raise the hub to allow a wooden wedge to be fitted between the ‘suspension arm and the subframe. Lower the suspension onto the wedge and remove the jack. e) Refer to Chapter 10 and disconnect the track rod balljoint and the upper and lower hub balljoints, allowing the wheelhub and driveshaft assembly to be withdrawn. : 24 Disconnect the multiplug from the starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and release its cable from the transmission casing, (see illustration 14.2). 25 Remove the selector cable end-rod to ‘selector lever securing nut and pull the rod from the lever. : 26 Remove the three bolts securing the engine steady bar bracket to the transmission casing and the single bolt securing the steady bar to the vehicle body (see illustration). Remove the steady bar and bracket assembly. 27 Unscrew each fluid cooler hose union from its adapter in the transmission casing and position the hoses to one side. Prevent

ingress of dirt into the cooling system by plugging all exposed connections. 28 Remove the three bolts which secure the : flywheel lower cover plate to the engine and | remove the plate.

29 Remove the three bolts which secure the: flywheel front cover plate to the engine (see: illustration) and remove the plate.

15.29 Remove the flywheel front cover plate securing bolts \ (arrowed)

Automatic transmission es a

30 Locate the crankshaft sensor multiplug on the engine wiring harness (see illustration) and disconnect it. 31 Remove the two bolts which secure the flywheel rear cover plate and crankshaft sensor multiplug. Release the wiring harness bracket and remove the cover plate. 32 Release the multiplug from the ECU mounting and disconnect it from the main wiring harness, (Chapter 4). Remove the three bolts. securing the ECU mounting bracket to the vehicle body and carefully retain the ECU. 33 Disconnect the multiplug from the inertia switch and release the oxygen sensor relay from its mounting bracket (see illustration). . 34 Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the transmission lifting bracket and place the harness and ECU to one side. 35 Bolt a lifting bracket (Rover tool no. 18G 1572/2) to the cylinder head, tightening the bolt to a torque loading of 9 Nm. Connect a hoist to the lifting bracket and take the weight of the engine/transmission. ‘36 Remove the two bolts securing the transmission mounting bracket to _ its mounting and loosen the two bolts securing the mounting to its support member, see illustration 9.10.

37-Remove the four bolts securing the support member to the subframe and then remove the support member and mounting assembly from the vehicle, see illustration

9.11. 38 Lift the engine/transmission

to provide

clearance for separation of the two components. 39 Secure a second lifting chain to the

transmission casing eye and tension it to take the weight of the unit. 40 Remove the four bolts securing the engine to the transmission, retaining the oxygen sensor multiplug mounting bracket. Ease the unit away from the engine and clear of the vehicle. 41 Remove the three mounting bracket securing bolts from the transmission casing

and detach the mounting. Refitting 42 With the new transmission on workbench, fit the mounting bracket tighten its securing bolts to 80 Nm. 43 Clean the mating faces of the engine transmission. Clean the two dowels and holes, then fit the dowels.

the and

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ee

44 Lower the transmission into the engine compartment and align it over the dowels, pressing the mating faces together. Take care to ensure that the input shaft is correctly engaged in the drive plate. 45 Refit the four bolts securing the engine to the transmission, relocating the oxygen sensor multiplug mounting bracket beneath the appropriate bolt head. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque loading and detach the lifting chain from the transmission... 46 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the reverse of removal, noting the following points: a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specified torque wrench settings. b) For full details of refitting (and adjusting) all ancillary components, refer to the relevant Sections of this, or other Chapters. c) Top-up the cooling system. d) Fill the transmission with fluid of the specified type to the correct level.

and their

15.33 Disconnect the multiplug from the inertia switch (A) and release the oxygen sensor relay from its mounting bracket (B)

15.30 Removing the crankshaft sensor multiplug and flywheel * rear cover plate

A Crankshaft sensor multiplug B Flywheel rear cover plate securing bolts C Wiring harness bracket

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Chapter 8 Driveshafts Contents Driveshafts - gaiter renewal ARIS Shetek ae 5 Driveshafts - general inspection .-.......... hikam Chnfsia sia igstev A 2 rnveshalts - Overhaul oi. neces sc ae we RAT ee ee eee 3

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with

S x~ ~

Driveshafts - removal and refitting ...........0..0.0-0 eee eee ee A General information and precautions ...............0.c.0aneeeel

Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

x xeS

Very difficult,

EN

suitable for expert DIY AQ or professional

x

Specifications ° Driveshafts Type

Unequal-length solid steel shafts, splined to inner and outer constant velocity joints, dynamic damper on right-hand shaft

Torque wrench settings

Nm

Driveshaft nut at e

aca

: ay Generalinformation and

General information Drive is transmitted from the differential to the front roadwheels by two unequal-length steel driveshaft assemblies. The (longer) righthand driveshaft is fitted with a dynamic _ damper to reduce harmonic vibrations and

_ resonance. Both driveshafts-are splined at their outer iends to accept the wheel hubs and are threaded so that each hub can be fastened by a large nut. The inner end of each driveshaft is splined to accept the differential gear and has a groove to accept the circlip which secures the driveshaft to the gear. Two constant velocity joints are fitted to each driveshaft to ensure that the smooth and efficient transmission of drive at all possible ] angles as the roadwheels move up and down i with the suspension, and as they turn from

Bi

side to side under steering. Each outer joint is of the Birfield-Rzeppa ball-and-cage type, but the inner joint-is of the tripod type and is plunge-accepting, to allow for the differences in driveshaft effective length at the extremes of suspension travel.

Precautions The only replacement parts listed are the inner constant velocity joint and_ shaft assemblies, the outer constant velocity joint assemblies and the rubber gaiters. The gaiters are supplied in a kit with the necessary sachets of grease and their clips. If any joint is worn or damaged it cannot be reconditioned: but must be renewed. In the case of the inner joints, this means that the complete joint/shaft

assembly must be renewed.

ae we

pete.

” Refer to te10Chapter1, Section 117.

Ibf ft 155

1 If any of the checks carried out during general inspection reveal wear in any driveshaft joint, first remove the roadwheel trim or centre cap (as appropriate). If the staking is still effective, the driveshaft nut should be correctly tightened. If in doubt, use © a torque wrench to check that the nut is

securely fastened and re-stake it, then refit the centre cap or trim. Repeat this check on the other driveshaft nut. 2 Road test the vehicle and listen for a metallic clicking from the front as the vehicle ° is driven slowly in a circle on full lock. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in the outer constant velocity joint. This means that the joint must be renewed as reconditioning is not possible. 3 If the outer joint is worn then it can be.

renewed separately.

8e2

Driveshafts

3.5 Exploded view of driveshaft assembly 1 Circlip

2 3 4 5

Inner joint and shaft assembly Large gaiter clip Gaiter Small gaiter clip 6 Damper clip 7 Dynamic damper - right-hand driveshaft only 8 Small gaiter clip 9 Gaiter 10 Large gaiter clip . 11 Stopper ring

12 Circlip 13 Outer joint assembly 14 Driveshaft nut

4 If-vibration consistent with road speed is felt through the car when accelerating, there is a possibility of wear in the inner constant velocity joints. 5 Remove the driveshafts then dismantle them and check the joints (see illustration). If any wear or free play is found, the inner joints are worn and must be renewed, complete with the shaft assembly.

axle stands (see “Jacking and - Vehicle Support”). Remove the roadwheel, then unscrew the driveshaft nut and discard it; it must be renewed as a matter of course whenever disturbed. 4 Drain the transmission oil. 5 Remove the underwing shield. 6 Relieve the pressure of the Hydragas system from the components by using a trolley jack or similar (with a block of wood

i4 Driveshafts - removal and ne

refitting

ee

HE

| Always tie an unbolt

brake calipertothe —~_— suspension strutsoasto

_ prevent strain on the flexible

rake hose.

Note: The roadwheel hub nuts are particularly tight. Slacken each nut when the car is on the ground.

interposed to

prevent damage) to jack up the suspension via the lower balljoint until it is just beginning to take the weight of the car, then slip a wooden spacer between the suspension upper arm and the front subframe and lower the jack: 7 Unscrew the brake caliper mounting bolts, remove the caliper from the hub carrier and slip a clean spacer (of the same thickness as the brake disc) between the pads, then secure the caliper clear of the working area without stretching or kinking the brake flexible hose. 8 Disconnect the track rod balljoint from the hub carrier steering arm.

9 Disconnect the suspension upper balljoint from the upper suspension arm and discard the lockwasher.

10 Sharply tug the hub carrier outwards off the driveshaft splines. It may be necessary to: use a soft-faced mallet (having first refitted the: driveshaft nut to protect the shaft’s threaded: end) to tap the driveshaft out of the hub. 11 Use a suitable lever to prise out the driveshaft until the circlip compresses into its: groove and is released from the differential gear (see illustration). 12 Withdraw the driveshaft assembly. Check! the circlip at the driveshaft’s inboard end carefully, renewing it if there is any doubt’

about its condition. To prevent the risk of the differential gear becoming displaced, insert & clean metal rod or wooden dowel of the same diameter as the driveshaft into the transmission aperture until the gear is securely supported.

Refitting 13 On refitting, proceed as follows.

®

Removal 1 With the car on its wheels, firmly apply the handbrake and select first or reverse gear. 2 Remove the roadwheel trim or centre cap

(as appropriate) (seeillustration). Relieve the staking of the driveshaft nut using a hammer and punch or (if necessary) an electric drill, ' then use a suitable socket, a strong T-bar and a long extension tube to slacken the nut; do

not unscrew it yet. If the nut is particularly tight, have an assistant apply the brakes hard.

3 Slacken the roadwheel nuts, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on

4.2 On cars with alloy wheels, remove the centre cap to expose driveshaft nut

4.11 Levering driveshaft out.oftransmission. _ ;

Driveshafts

4.23a Tighten driveshaft nut to specified torque wrench setting...

4.23b ... and stake into driveshaft groove

14 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft itself and the apertures in the transmission and hub Carrier to prevent the entry of dirt during: reassembly. Apply a thin film of grease to the oil seal lips and to the driveshaft splines and

21 Refit the brake caliper, tightening its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 22 Jack up the suspension, remove the spacer and lower the suspension again, then refit the underwing shield and the roadwheel. 23 Lower the car to the ground and tighten the driveshaft nut and roadwheel nuts to their specified torque settings. Using a hammer and punch, secure the driveshaft nut by staking its collar into the driveshaft groove (see illustrations). 24 Refit the roadwheel trim or centre cap. 25 Refill the transmission with oil.

~ shoulders:

Check

that all gaiter clips are

securely fastened. 15 Ensure that the circlip fitted to the inboard

end of each driveshaft is in good condition and is located securely in its groove. Remove the differential gear support.

16 Taking care not to damage the oil seal lips, insert the driveshaft into the transmission

and engage its splines with those of the gear. Press the driveshaft firmly into place until the circlip engages correctly behind (inboard of) the gear. If it is necessary to use tools to tap the driveshaft into place, be very careful not to damage the rubber gaiter. 17 Check that the circlip is properly engaged by grasping the inner joint body firmly and

trying to pull the driveshaft out of the differential. 18 Refit the driveshaft to the hub carrier and fit a new driveshaft nut. . 19 Refit the upper balljoint to the suspension upper arm, fit a new lockwasher and tighten the balljoint-to-upper suspension arm nut to the specified torque wrench setting, then secure the nut by bending the washer tab up against one of its flats. . 20 Connect the track rod balljoint to the hub carrier steering arm and tighten the balljoint nut to the specified torque wrench setting.

5.2 It may be necessary to cut gaiter clips

to release gaiters

to secure it

8e3

drift (applied to the joint inner race only) to tap the joint off the shaft splines until the circlip compresses into its groove and is released from the inner race (see illustration). 5 Withdraw the joint from the driveshaft and slide off the gaiter. If it is to be re-used, wrap insulating tape around the shaft to protect the gaiter from any sharp edges. Check the gaiter for splits, cracking or other signs of damage and renew it if necessary. Renew both clips. 6 Remove and discard the circlip from the driveshaft end. 7 On refitting, proceed as follows. 8 Wind a thin layer of insulating tape around the shaft to protect the gaiter from the shaft splines and other sharp edges. Fit the small gaiter clip, then slide on the gaiter and check that it is seated correctly before removing the tape.

9 Ensuring that the stopper ring is securely located in its groove, fit a new circlip to the groove nearest the driveshaft’s end, apply a smear of grease and press the outer joint into place so that the driveshaft end, the circlip and the joint inner race’are all aligned. Using a soft-faced mallet and protecting the joint’s threaded end by refitting temporarily the driveshaft nut, tap the outer joint onto the driveshaft until the circlip compresses into its groove and passes through the inner race ; 5 Driveshafts -gaiter renewal (see illustration). 10 Check that the circlip is correctly aianod by trying to pull the joint off the shaft. 11 Fill the joint with the grease provided in Outer joint - sachets in the gaiter kit, packing any surplus Note: This operation is a great deal easier if into the gaiter. the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. 12 Position the gaiter on the joint groove, However, it is possible to dismantle an outer fasten the large gaiter clip and expel all air joint without removing the driveshaft from the from the gaiter before fastening the small transmission, provided that care is taken to gaiter clip. hold the driveshaft into the transmission whilst Inner joint the hub carrier and outer joint are removed. 13 Remove the outer joint as described 1 Remove the driveshaft. above. 2 Cut the gaiter clips and peel back the gaiter 14 On right-hand shafts only, remove the clip from the joint (see illustration). and withdraw the dynamic damper; use liquid 3 Clamp the driveshaft in a soft-jawed vice. soap if necessary to aid damper removal and 4 Using a sharply-pointed punch or scribing clean off any rust deposits or similar using tool, mark the relationship of the joint body to emery cloth. the driveshaft itself, then use a hammer and a

HHH)

5.4 Driving outer constant velocity joint off driveshaft end

5.9 Refitting outer constant velocity joint to driveshaft

8e4

Driveshafts

5.15 Cutting inner constant velocity joint gaiter clip to release it 15 Cut

the

clips

(see

illustration)

and

withdraw the gaiter. If it is to be re-used, wrap insulating tape around the shaft to protect the gaiter from any sharp edges. Check the gaiter for splits, cracking or other signs of damage and renew it if necessary. Renew both clips. 16 Clean the shaft (using emery cloth to polish away any rust or sharp edges which might damage the new gaiter’s sealing lip) and joint, renewing any worn or damaged items.

5.17 Using sachets supplied with gaiter kit to fill inner joint with grease 17 On reassembly, pack the joint with the grease provided in sachets in the gaiter kit (see illustration) then slide the new gaiter

onto the shaft, taking care not to damage the gaiter lip. 18 Position the gaiter on the joint groove, fasten the large gaiter clip and expel all air from the gaiter before fastening the small gaiter clip (see illustration).

5.18 Using correct tool to tighten gaiter clip - end cutters can be used instead, if care is exercised

19 On left-hand shafts, refit the outer joint. On right-hand shafts, lubricate the shaft and refit the dynamic damper (with a new clip) so that its clip flange is inboard, towards the inner joint. Reassemble the outer joint, then position the damper as shown (see illustration) and secure its clip. Clean off any surplus lubricant.

5.19 Position the dynamic damper the specified distance from the outer joint flange, then secure the clip

A = 393.25 to 399.25 mm

Qet

Chapter 9 Braking system Contents Brake Brake Front Front Front

pedal - removal, inspection and refitting Seis bis Sue OMA © 2 system warning lamps - testing and renewal.............. 28 brake caliper - overhaul .......... SMEG ctisosbiahaichiciaysars15 brake caliper - removal and refitting ..................005 14 brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting.............. 16

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection ..............0 eee ee eee 9

Hydraulic:systemi= bleeding:

Front brake disc shield - removal and refitting .................. 17 Rionimarake Pads INSDeEGHON ste it cscs os vacate el etna 12

Front brake pads

renewal...

satesotais siars ea leatet ee ee

tee

1.0 ccc ese. ede ee eee e eee eats

General information and precautions ...............0 cece ee eee 1 Handbrake cable - removal, inspection and refitting ............. 26 Handbrake - inspection and adjustment ..................000- 24 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting ...................000- 25 Hydraulic fluid - level check and renewal .......... 20000 eeee 7 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal ..........-. 00.0 cee eee nee 10

Degrees of difficulty Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Fairly easy, suitable

Easy, suitable for novice with little

for beginner with ‘S XS xX some experience

expenence

x my

x N NN

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

x SN NN

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications Brake system Type

RLS

ie

el sie hs

le

ln

SAAS

6 5 8 ew rere se. 8 wk

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mae

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8

pe Ce et er ib weiS

Hydraulically-operated diagonally split dual circuit with pressure regulating valves to rear brakes, vacuum servo-assisted, discs front, drums rear. Handbrake cable-operated on rear drums

Front brakes Disc, with single-piston sliding caliper

Type Disc diameter Disc thickness: New Ey ete teeta ies te Kia Rose a ee RR ela Cea ee Minimum See oe pC Maximum thickness variation ce Disc maximum run-out me Wee et a eta

238 mm

ee

wee

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6 9 oe

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Bimal

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Brake pad friction material minimum thickness

Rear brakes Type fe cle 6 he5 Drum diameter: New eee Maximum SE

a ee

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SEN

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Alek

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Dieta te eles

Drum maximum ovality

RE

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Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness

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Handbrake Roadwheels bind at:

Up to VIN 661301 VIN 661301 on °* Roadwheels lock at: Up to VIN 661301 ~VIN 661301 on ey

2 to 3 notches 1 notch

Se

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TSE Pee

8

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting ................ 11 Pressure regulating valve - removal and refitting ................ 18 Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting .................5. 23 Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting ............. 21 Rear brake shoes - wear check and adjustment ................ 19 Rear brake'shoes'="renewall .iShnetaces wed cee, ce alae ches aieteeielers 20 Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting ............ 22 Stop-lamp switch - adjustment ........... 00.2 cece eee eens 27 Vacuum serve Unit: inspection. ¢). ase Satin wateteiirhe vueievtusnsteneiena 3 Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting ..................00-- 4 Vacuum servo unit non-return check valve - removal and refitting . . .6 Vacuum servo unit non-return check valve - testing

3 to 4 notches:

a! O

1 to 2 notches

a) ST

9e2 Braking system Torque wrench settings

Nm

Vacuum Servo unIE MOUNTING MUS sectis esac ew cheers oe ieeiepo sree fous apers Master cylinder-to-vacuum servo unit mounting nuts .............. Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose banjo union bolt - alloy inlet manifold . Brake pipe cimion nits tans art sone aedndanan

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Body electrical systems 12e24

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Pew Bk A/D

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Body electrical systems

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Ancillary 3a: Diagram circuits electric windows, locking central radio and cassette -

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Reference Dimensions and Weights eek tee = RW ie y ag REFe1 Eonversion BOIS Mircette tee) ie REFe2 Buyity spate Pans oo os asks. kat... ....-REFe3 Meanie Identificati 6). eeee. on.. eek. .) REFe3 General Repair Procedures ................. REFe4

Jacking and Vehicle Support

Radio/cassette Anti-theft system precautions . Tools and Working Facilities MOT Test Checks Fault Finding Glossary of Technical Terms

............... REFe5 = Index

Se

Ee

ae

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a,

Pee

ese

Se

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Dimensions and Weights Note: A// figures are approximate, and may vary according to model.

Refer to manufacturer's data for exact figures.

Dimensions © DMUs

IE aaa ares, seated ahses le Give ise

“incl

alld as Noe B Geovanhen'g dS Sereeemcoemm

RV eH WIEN KUMEIECUIMOITUITOFS) apg aectao ios S)< etna etenaia)priniais a vlareeara, is » 1775 mm ’ Overall height (at kerb weight and specified ride nein ee bicthets: Sa ae 1377 mm EBESEGES Spa) Se on ee OO ot ae OS es et Re oe eee eee 2269 mm SEAN ALICE NAR e IootFiveLae AEC ata aya a ee whe aon wie Ried youd s iow 1475 mm PCSATME AG:tteMM raryicnd cesietehWisi te dale, VR eakislawiaa leem > = Scoiie seAGS oly Geely ow daa * 1470mm Turning circle: CPO acute MN nt vata cee aistai.S)5.x asta @ sem X ieee clive RID mde Ge B's «in x Pos 10710 mm All other models ........... seta ee Spe MOREE, tue Chae otete ae ae 9890 mm

Weights. Kerb weight- car unladen, less options, but with full fuel tank, coolant and all fluids, tools and spare wheet

Hee th GO=COl ae Mees stele eS eee aa ee ea tue «ig deh, aloha otphase TASTE idp eet re beLol ai ec = Se IRR a aoe eR Meher TGe-COOhIE ie me Lae ciety « ais oe ose area Merced ye ead Se VE-CIOOK bint: emieniats osqovupspe morta eke oh ia:oa ele ig Bua al ade vg 1.1L -five-door, 1.4SL - three-door 5.2 5 2-666. eee cee oe aha GC CICIC AMMEN a Men oyever taue scvoya Piso: eyeby ob ipso Waele) aha is Ca RETO OOM met eet ctr ein chcts' le nud in's & erstsierninidae giv blonnyy .... 1.4SL - five-door ........ ee ie eke ee alae ee canes MEA ledia es HUE COON sar sala cist peeing ithe deka Blac ate ae kas SUNT AY BAL Ta), BPE ees ee nO Oe ana ante ean ee eee ee Note: Add 5 kg if a catalytic converter is fitted. ee erence eens ..-0ee cee Maximum gross vehicle weight ......... alas e sewn We yilew- delbiee bs lee ele aay EMM axinniLinn rOOnrac milOGGhws Maximum towing weight- with braked trailer: PRI MOCEIS eran cist ae otra tnvis Side 'awe Silaberdini hn gveud sine hau « PPA TMOGSIG Duis Pints.w edie k sthe.wivih et Sink = om» aiteig Winwade ralae «RRS rere eee Towing hitch downward load ..........2+-.+5- eer

q

rere1

815 kg 820 kg BAOKG 830 kg 835 kg 840 kg 845kg 850 kg 860 kg 875 kg 1290 kg 50 kg

700 kg 800 kg 50 kg

a

ale

mp

ee, Be

ww,

REFe2

Conversion Factors

gp a Te

Length (distance) Millimetres (mm)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

x

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) Litres (|) Litres (I) US quarts (US qt) Litres (I) Litres (I) US gallons (US gal) Litres (I)

Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) . Imperial gallons (Imp gal) OK OS US gallons (US gal)

Grams (g) Kilograms (kg)

x

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

xX XK KK x KKK

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

0.0394 3.281 0.621

Metres (m) ; Kilometres (km)

Mass (weight) Ounces (02) Pounds (Ib)

Ounces (02) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Newtons (N) Newtons (N) Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) Newtons (N)

Pressure 14.223

0.068

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm?*; kg/cm’) Atmospheres (atm)

0.069

Bars

14.5

Pounds-force per square inch

6.895

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.145

(psi; lbf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm’; kg/cm?) Pascals (Pa) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH2O)

98.1

Pounds-force per (psi; lbf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in*) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01 68.947

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

0.070

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

100 .0.0145

Millibar (mbar)

0.75 0.401 0.535 0.036

Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH5O)

Inches of water (inH,O) =

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

14.696

1.333 2.491 1.868 mM XS aK 27.68

square inch square inch square inch

square inch

Millibar (mbar)

=

Millibar (mbar) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH,O)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in)

x 1.152

Pounds-force inches (bf in; Ib in)

Xx

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

Xx

Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft) Newton metres (Nm)

Xx

x x

0.113 0.083 0.138 1.356 0.102

Power

Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) Newton metres (Nm) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft) Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m) Newton metres (Nm) :

Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

0.868

Pounds-force inches (|bf in; Ib in)

8.85 12 7.233 0.738 XK KK x 9.804

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton metres (Nm)

x

Watts (W) —

0.0013

Horsepower (hp)

x 1.609

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

0.621

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

x 0.354

Kilometres per litre (km/l)

145.7

Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon (mpg)

:

X 2.825

Miles per gallon (mpg)

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (I/100km), where mpg x 1/100 km = 282

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

Buying Spare Parts Spare parts are available from many sources, including maker’s appointed garages, accessory shops, and motor factors. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it

_ will sometimes be necessary to quote the

vehicle identification number. If possible, it can also be useful to take the old parts along for positive identification. Items such as starter motors and alternators may be available under a service exchange scheme any parts returned should always be clean. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows.

Officially-appointed garages This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car, and which are not otherwise generally available (eg badges, interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shops These are very good places to materials and components needed for maintenance of your car (oil, air and - filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts,

buy the fuel

oils

rere

and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).

Components of this nature sold by a reputable shop are of the same standard as those used by the car manufacturer. Besides components, these shops also sell tools and general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from home. Some accessory shops have parts

frequently offer. competitive prices when compared with a main dealer or local garage, but it will pay to obtain several quotes before making a decision. When researching prices, also ask what “extras” may be added - for instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the wheel are both commonly charged on top of the price of a new tyre.

counters where the components needed for

Other sources

almost any repair job can be purchased or ordered. ‘ Motor factors Good factors will stock all the more important components which wear out comparatively quickly, and can sometimes supply individual components needed for the overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons, valves, alternator brushes). They may also handle work such as cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialists These outlets may be independent, or members of a local or national chain. They

Beware of parts or materials obtained from market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets. Such items are not invariably sub-standard, but there is little chance of compensation if they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of safety-critical components such as brake pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss but also of an accident causing injury or

death. Second-hand components or assemblies obtained from a car breaker can be a good buy in some circumstances, but this sort of purchase is best made by the experienced

DIY mechanic.

Vehicle Identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture, quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle identification numbers being essential to correct identification of. the component concerned. When ordering spare parts, always give as - much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers as appropriate.

The vehicle identification plate is located on the bonnet lock platform (see illustration). It gives the VIN (vehicle identification number), vehicle weight information and paint and trim colour codes. The VIN is also stamped into the drain channel at the rear edge of the bonnet, above the braking system: master cylinder. The body number is stamped into a plate fixed to the right-hand lip of the spare wheel

Vehicle identification plate on bonnet lock

Vehicle body number on right-hand lip of spare wheel well

well,

in the

luggage

compartment

illustration). The engine number is stamped into a raised

pad on the front left-hand end of the cylinder block/crankcase, next to the transmission (see illustration). Other identification numbers or codes are stamped on major items such as the gearbox, final drive housing, distributor etc. These numbers are unlikely to be needed by the home mechanic.

(see

io platform

Engine number on front of cylinder . block/crankcase

rerea General Repair Procedures Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation, efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets When

separating

components

at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or similar implements into the joint between the faces in order to prise them apart. This can

cause severe damage which results in oil leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly. Separation is usually achieved by tapping along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in order to break the seal. However, note that this method may not be suitable where dowels are used for component location. Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound, if this is being used, unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes” are clear, and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Oil seals can be removed by levering them out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or similar tool. Alternatively, a number of selftapping screws may be screwed into the seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or similar in order to pull the seal free. Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged,

and will not seal if the surface it

contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, and the manufacturer has not made provision for slight relocation of the seal relative to the sealing surface, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. ;

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face (unless otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

effectiveness after long periods of use, and should be renewed as a matter of course. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole. When thread-locking compound is found on the threads of a fastener which is.to be reused, it should be cleaned off with a wire brush and solvent, and fresh compound applied on reassembly.

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a common occurrence where corrosion has set in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing fluid will often overcome this problem if the offending item is soaked for a while before Special tools attempting to release it. The use of an impact Some repair procedures in this manual driver may also provide a means of releasing entail the use of special tools such as a press, such stubborn fastening devices, when used two or three-legged pullers, spring in. conjunction with the appropriate compréssors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these readily-available alternatives to . the methods works, it may be necessary to resort manufacturer’s special tools are described, to the careful application of heat, or the use of and are shown in use. In some instances, a hacksaw or nut splitter device. Studs are usually removed by locking two | where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a nuts together on the threaded part, and then

using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off below the surface of the component in which they are mounted can sometimes be removed using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting. However, this should not be attempted where angular tightening has been used. For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are no longer specified for the latter stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed by one or more stages of tightening through specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against.a component or housing during tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be.

renewed when they are component such as retaining bolt or nut. folded over’to retain

used to lock a critical a big-end bearing Locktabs which are a nut or bolt should

always be renewed. Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the-bolt or stud thread. However, it should be noted that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and have a thorough f understanding of the procedures described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage -

could be caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations When disposing of used engine oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,

for instance, pour any of the above liquids down drains into the general sewage system, or onto the ground to soak away. Many local council refuse tips provide a facility for waste oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of these facilities are available, consult your local Environmental Health. Department, or the National Rivers Authority, for further advice. With the universal tightening-up of legislation regarding the emission of environmentally-harmful substances from motor vehicles, most current vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted to the main adjustment points of the fuel system. These devices are primarily designed to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a consequent’ increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are encountered during servicing or overhaul,

they should, wherever possible, be renewed or refitted in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s requirements or current. legislation. Note: It'is antisocial and

|

illegal to dump oil

down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling —

bank, call this number free. i

Jacking and Vehicle Support The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing the roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the front of this Manual. When using the jack, position it on firm ground and locate its head in the relevant vehicle jacking point (see illustrations).

When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points. Always use the recommended jacking, support and towing points (see illustration)

sts, .

Se

teres

and refer to the following instructions: If the front of the vehicle is to be raised, place the jack head under point 1 or on a jacking beam placed across points 2. Axle stands should be placed at points 3 and 4 or points 7. To raise the rear of the vehicle, place the jack head on a jacking beam placed across points 8, Axle stands should be placed at points 5 and 6 or points 9. To raise the side of the vehicle, place the jack head under point 3 or 4 at the front, point 9 at the rear, with axle stands at points 5, 6 or 7, as appropriate. Never work under, around or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

ow

. locate jack head into vehicle jacking point (arrowed) Jacking, supporting and-towing points 1 Central jack location pad 2 Front suspension subframe ,

longitudinals Jacking/support point Jacking/support point Jacking/support point Jacking/support point Underbody longitudinal sections Rear suspension subframe bolts Rear suspension subframe reinforced areas 10 Front towing eyes 11 Transporter lashing points 12 Rear towing eye

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

|

Radio/cassette Anti-theft system - precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard _ equipment by Rover is equipped with a builtin security code, to deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette

The procedure for reprogramming a unit that has been disconnected from its power. supply varies from model to model - consult the handbook supplied with the unit for specific details or refer to your Rover dealer.

unit will not function until the security code has been entered. Therefore if you do not know the correct security code for the unit, ‘do not disconnect the battery negative lead, or remove the radio/cassette nit from the

vehicle.

3

.

reres TOOIS and Working Facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who: does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following ' headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers

to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair-tool kit, and confine themselves to the simpler jobs around

the

vehicle.

Then,

as

confidence

and

experience grow, more difficult tasks can be undertaken, with extra tools being purchased as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time, without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures, and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the amount of use to-which these tools will be put.

Repair and overhaul tool kit

Maintenance and _ minor repair tool kit The tools given in this considered as a minimum routine

maintenance,

list should be requirement if

servicing

and

minor

repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than openended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

[1

Combination spanners:

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.) Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) petrol models : Spark plug gap adjustment tool petrol models Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner OE Eh BEIScrewdrivers: Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia Torx - various sizes (not all vehicles) Combination pliers Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Oil can Oil filter removal tool Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Sump arain plug key (not all vehicles) OROoOo BOOB

These tools are virtually essential for. anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those

given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive, they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are

included in the set. We recommend the halfinch square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. The tools in this list will sometimes need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list: Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list (including Torx sockets) Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Flexible handle or sliding T “breaker bar” (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Self-locking grips Ball pein hammer Soft-faced mallet (plastic or rubber) 4 iE] Screwdrivers: Berit eae Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), and narrow (electrician’s) types Cross blade— long & sturdy, and short (chubby) types Oj Pliers: Long-nosed _Side cutters (electrician’s) Circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - 25 mm Scriber Scraper Centre-punch Pin punch Hacksaw Brake hose clamp

Brake/clutch bleeding kit Selection of twist drills Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx ype) Selection of files Wire brush

Brake bleeding kit

» _

Axle stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

Light with extension lead

|

DoORoOoOo BOOB BHOUniversal electrical multi-meter

Torx key, socket and bit

Hose clamp

Angular-tightening gauge

Tools and Working Facilities Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with _ friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. It is worth noting that many of the larger DIY superstores now carry a large range of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, _ and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a dealer. Angular-tightening gauge Valve spring compressor Valve grinding tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring removal/installation tool Cylinder bore hone Balljoint separator Coil spring compressors (where applicable) Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier calipers Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

Buying tools

Working facilities

Reputable motor accessory shops and superstores often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, a suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an ownermechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints etc, which become

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the

relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.

Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,

meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good finish.

necessary.

é

Another item which may be required, and

which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8 mm. This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Dwell angle meter/tachometer Fault code reader Cylinder compression gauge Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge Clutch plate alignment set Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool Bush and bearing removal/installation set — Stud extractors Tap and die set { Lifting tackle Trolley jack

pooooooooooDooooooneoooNd

ae

Strap wrench

rer.7

Compression tester s

Fault code reade

reres

MOT Test Checks

|

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not*be possible to examine the vehicle to the same standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the vehicle for the test. Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is scruffy and apparently neglected. It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here, based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards are becoming increasingly Stringent, although there are some exemptions for older vehicles.

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

1 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S _ SEAT

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE GROUND

3 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN

é Checks carried out on YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST EMISSION — SYSTEM

idChecks carried out ae FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT Handbrake Li Test the operation of the handbrake. Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates ’ incorrect brake or cable adjustment. [] Check that the handbrake cannot be released by tapping the lever sideways. Check the security of the lever mountings.

(] Check that the brake pedal is secure and in good condition. Check also for signs of fluid leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which would indicate failed seals in the brake master cylinder.

- {1 Check the servo unit (when applicable) by operating the brake pedal several times, then keeping the pedal depressed and starting the engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose

moverieht of the vison wheel, indicating wear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen, mirrors and sunvisor J The windscreen must be free of cracks or ’ other significant damage within the driver’s field of view. (Small stone chips are acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

or the servo itself may be faulty.

Footbrake L] Depress the brake pedal and check that it does not creep down to the floor, indicating a master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait

a few seconds, then depress it again. If the pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is air in the hydraulic system which must be removed by bleeding.

Steering wheel and column | Examine the steering wheel for fractures or looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.

L] Move the steering wheel from side to side and then up and down. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column, indicating wear or a loose retaining nut. Continue moving the steering wheel as before, but also turn it slightly from left to right. L] Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column, and that there is no abnormal

() The driver’s sunvisor must be capable of being stored in the “up” i ae

MOT Test Checks

sue

L] Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any part of the steering or suspension mechanism. With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Electrical equipment L] Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn. L] Check the windscreen washers and wipers, examining the wiper blades; renew damaged or perished blades. Also check the operation of the stop-lights.

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable to all seat belts, front and rear.

L] Examine

the webbing

of all the belts

(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten each belt to check the buckles. If applicable, check the retracting mechanism. Check the

security of all seat belt mountings accessible from inside the vehicle.

[J Seat belts with pre-tensioners, once activated, have a “flag” or similar showing on the seat belt stalk. This, in itself, is not a reason for test failure. [1 The front seats themselves must. be securely attached and the backrests must lock in the upright position.

Doors CL Both front doors must be able to be opened and closed from outside and inside, and must latch securely when closed.

5

NGhocks cass out _ WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE

_ GROUND

ers

Y

baile!

~

L] Check the operation of the sidelights and number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors must be secure, clean and undamaged.

L] Check the operation and alignment of the

Steering and suspension

headlights. The headlight reflectors must not be tarnished and the lenses must be undamaged.

_] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side slightly, up to the point: where the steering gear just begins to transmit this movement to the roadwheels. Check for excessive free play between the steering wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or insecurity of the steering column joints, the column-to-steering gear coupling, or the steering gear itself.

L] Switch

on the ignition and

check the

operation of the direction indicators (including the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the rear light cluster.

[] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel more vigorously in each direction, so that the roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done, examine all the steering joints, linkages, fittings and attachments. Renew any component that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering, check the security and condition of the

CL] Check the operation of the rear + foglight(s), including the warning light on the instrument panel or in the switch.

(J The ABS warning light must illuminate in accordance with the manufacturers’ design. For most vehicles, the ABS warning light should illuminate when the ignition is switched on, and (if the system is operating properly) extinguish after a few seconds. Refer to the owner’s handbook.

Vehicle identification (J Number plates must be in good condition,

Footbrake

secure and legible, with letters and numbers correctly spaced — spacing at (A) should be at least twice that at (B).

LJ Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

1 The VIN plate and/or homologation plate must be legible.

fluid level must be between the upper (A) and lower (B) markings.

steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.

J Check that the vehicle is standing level, and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers (| Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn, then release it. The vehicle should rise and then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber is defective. A’ shock absorber which has seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

CJ The fluid reservoir must be secure and the

°

rereio.

MOT Test Checks

Exhaust system [] Start

the

engine.

With

your

assistant

holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the entire system for leaks. Repair or renew leaking sections.

—

Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings _] Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and rock gently but firmly. Check for free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings, suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments.

_] Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o'clock positions and repeat the previous inspection.

Spin the wheel,

roughness bearing.

or tightness of the front wheel

and check for

[] The same general checks apply to vehicles fitted with other suspension types, such as torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc. . Ensure that all mountings and attachments are secure, that there are no signs of excessive wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic . ~ types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged pipes. C Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the mounting bushes or attachments, or damage to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts (fwd vehicles only) J Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or damage. Also check that each driveshaft is straight and undamaged.

3 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,

and securely support it on axle stands. Position the stands clear of the suspension assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are clear of the ground and that the steering can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

L] lf excess

free

play is suspected

at a

component pivot point, this can be confirmed by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and levering between the mounting and the

component attachment. This will confirm whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt holes can often become elongated).

LJ Have your assistant turn the steering ie lock to lock. Check that the steering turns smoothly, and that no part of the steering mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body

Braking system LC If possible

without

dismantling,

check

brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure that the friction lining material has not worn excessively, (A) and that the discs are not

fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

structure.

L] Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips. If power steering is fitted, check for signs of damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or connections. Also check for excessive stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing _ split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion of the body structure within 30 cm of any steering component attachment point. _] Carry out all the above checks at the other

front wheel, and,then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers L] Examine the suspension struts (when applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,

‘(O Examine

all ‘the rigid brake pipes underneath the vehicle, and the flexible hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafirig or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or

or damage to the casing. Also check the security of the mounting points. L] If coil springs are fitted, check that the deterioration of the flexible hoses. spring ends locate in their seats, and that the L] Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake spring is not corroded, cracked or broken. calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or L] If leaf springs are fitted, check that all renew leaking components. leaves are intact, that the axle is securely (Slowly spin each wheel, while your attached to each spring, and that there is no _assistant depresses and releases the deterioration of the spring eye mountings, footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating Duane and shackles. and does not bind when the pedal is released.

a ; ;

MOT Test Checks | rere11 used after 1st August 1992 (K registration) must conform to the manufacturer’s specification. The MOT tester has access to a DOT database or emissions handbook, which lists the CO and HC limits for each make and model of vehicle. The CO level is measured with the engine at idle speed, and at “fast idle”. The following limits are given as a general guide: At idle speed CO level no more than 0.5% At “fast idle” (2500 to 3000 rpm) -

CO level no more than 0.3%

(Minimum oil temperature 60°C) L] Examine

the

handbrake

mechanism,

checking for frayed or broken cables, excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of

Body corrosion L] Check the condition of the entire vehicle

the linkage. Check that the mechanism works ~ structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing on each relevant wheel, and releases fully, . without binding. L] It is not possible to test brake efficiency without special equipment, but a road test can be carried out later to check that the vehicle pulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems LJ Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All components must be secure and free from leaks. [_] Examine the exhaust system over its entire length, checking for any damaged, broken or missing mountings, security of the retaining clamps and rust or corrosion.

areas. (These include chassis box sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all suspension, steering, braking system and seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any corrosion which has seriously reduced the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to cause the vehicle to fail. In this case professional repairs are likely to be needed. .] Damage or corrosion which causes sharp '- or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed will also cause the vehicle to fail.

4. Checks carried out on YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEM

Petro! models [1 Have the engine at normal

LJ Examine the sidewalls and tread area of each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps, bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure of the ply or cord due to wear or damage. Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and properly seated, and that the wheel is not distorted or damaged.

CO Check that the tyres are of the correct size

for the vehicle, that they are of the same size

and type on each axle, and that the pressures are correct.

(1) Check the tyre tread depth. The legal

minimum. at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over at least three-quarters of the tread width. Abnormal tread wear may eee incorrect front wheel alignment.

LJ With the CO within limits, HC emissions for vehicles first used between 1st August 1975 and 31st July 1992 (P to J registration) must not exceed 1200 ppm. Vehicles first used after 1st August 1992 (K registration) must conform to the manufacturer’s specification. The MOT tester has access to a DOT database or emissions handbook, which lists the CO and HC limits for each make and model of vehicle. The HC level is measured with the engine at “fast idle”. The following is At “fast idle” (2500 to 3000 rpm) HC level no more than 200 ppm

(Minimum oil temperature 60°C)

operating

element clean, etc). (| Before any measurements are carried out, ’ raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm, and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and watch for smoke emissions from the exhaust tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt (engine wear) while black smoke signifies unburnt

HC emissions

given as a general guide:

temperature, and make sure that it is in good tune (ignition system in good order, air filter

Wheels and tyres

LI If the CO level cannot be reduced far enough to pass the test (and the fuel and ignition systems are otherwise in good condition) then the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some problem in the fuel injection system or catalytic converter, (as applicable):

fuel (dirty air cleaner element,

or

other carburettor or fuel system fault). [J An exhaust gas analyser capable of measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a local garage may agree to perform the check for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture) (At the time of writing, for vehicles first used between 1st August 1975 and 31st July 1986 (P to C registration), the CO level must not exceed 4.5% by volume. For vehicles first used between 1st August 1986 and 31%t July 1992 (D to J registration), the CO level must not exceed 3.5% by volume. Vehicles first

| Excessive HC emissions are caused by incomplete combustion, the causes of which can include oil being burnt, mechanical wear and ignition/fuel system malfunction.

Diesel models L] The only emission test applicable to Diesel engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke

density. The test involves accelerating the engine several times to its maximum unloaded speed. Note: /t is of the utmost importance that the engine timing belt is in good condition before _ the test is carried out.

(J The limits for Diesel engine exhaust smoke, introduced in September 1995 are: Vehicles first used before 1st August 1979: Exempt from metered smoke testing, but must not emit “dense blue or clearly visible black smoke for a period of more

than 5 seconds at idle” or “dense blue or clearly visible black smoke during acceleration which would obscure the view of other road users”. Non-turbocharged vehicles first used after 7st August 1979: 2.5m-1 Turbocharged vehicles first used after

1st August 1979: 3.0m" LJ] Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional advice may be needed to find the cause.

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Fault Finding

ENGING

2.0 cne es oe ie

Engine Engine Starter Engine Engine tte Engine Let Engine Engine

Fluid leakage Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell General gear selection problems | LH Et Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully depressed Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park or Neutral L] Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

difficult to start when cold difficult to start when hot motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement starts, but-stops immediately idles erratically misfires at idle speed misfires throughout the driving speed range hesitates on acceleration

Driveshafts

Engine stalls

lacks power Engine backfires Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running Engine runs-on after switching off Engine noises ene

io 2 i

a ce i ee

Braking system

eee ee

Oe

ea

a

ee

ecee

.......00eeeeeeee eee

| ait

L] Corrosion

Suspension and steering............++..9

Fuel and exhaust systems

.............0

Excessive fue] consumption

(] Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour |] Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

ee ee

oe te eee

ess

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) _ Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle speed) Judder as clutch is engaged Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

enneeee Manual gearbox ..-..e00ecceeseeeeee

Vehicle puils to one side Wheel wobbie and vibration Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or when braking Wandering or general instability =oee Excessively-stiff steering Excessive play in steering | bieTyre wear excessive

Electrical system

........2.220000222:10

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days J L}{ Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated

with engine running _

5

_ Noisy in neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear

_ Difficulty engaging gears

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on Lights inoperative Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic _ Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation — : Windscreen/tailgate wipers moperetive: or unsatisfactory in ir operation

~ Jumps out of gear Vibration Lubricant leaks = HOOOUC

| Introduction

a

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking Brakes binding Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Overcooling External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage UOOOO9e

CMUICH oo

oe

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking | Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied Excessive brake pedal travel Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle

Overheating

[|

ee

[_] Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock) Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

TitEngine

OONNG SYSITCM

..........++.+.6

Automatic transmission

ee

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start Engine rotates, but will not start

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in. operation

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory iin operation

5 2 geese Central locking

system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

%

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended service schedules should not have to use. this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.

With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault -power loss, high or low gauge. readings, unusual — smells, etc -and remember that failure of components such as fuses or Spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

Fault Finding The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of the vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical

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fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

1 Engine Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Weekly checks). Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapter 5). Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5). Defective starter motor (Chapter 5). Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapters 2 and 5). : Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).

Engine rotates but will not start Fuel tank empty. Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5). Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Weekly checks). Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit (Chapters 1 and 5). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Choke mechanism sticking, incorrectly adjusted, or faulty (Chapter 4). ere Wai Be KGMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2).

Engine difficult to start when cold

a a

Battery discharged (Chapter 5). Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Weekly checks). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Choke mechanism sticking, incorrectly adjusted, or faulty (Chapter 4). Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5). Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

Engine difficult to start when hot 11 Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1). (1

Choke mechanism sticking, incorrectly adjusted, or faulty

[1 [1

(Chapter 4). Carburettor float chamber flooding (Chapter 4). Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapters 2 and 5). (1 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5). (1 Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5). 0

_ Engine starts but stops immediately (Insufficient fuel reaching carburettor (Chapter 4). 1 Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit (Chapters 1 and 5).

Vacuum leak at the carburettor or inlet manifold (Chapter 4). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages (Chapter 4).

m ngine idles erratically Incorrectly adjusted idle speed and/or mixture settings (Chapter 1). Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1). ia Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2). Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). Timing belt incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2). feheyer

Engine misfires at idle speed Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1). Incorrectly adjusted idle mixture settings (Chapter 1). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4). Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 1). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2). Disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses BoaoOo BOD. (Chapters 1 and 4).

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages (Chapter 4). Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapters 1 and 4). Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1). Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4). Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1). Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 1). Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

|e Loemye apn geal ‘ehelalc Engine hesitates on acceleration

Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Carburettor accelerator pump faulty (Chapter 4). Blocked carburettor jets or internal passages (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses , (Chapter 4). EP PS Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapters 1 and 4). REN

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Fault Finding

1 Engine (continued) Engine stalls Incorrectly adjusted idle speed and/or mixture settings (Chapter 1). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses

(Chapter 4). Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1). Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4). Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4). ILI SLY,

Engine lacks power Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2). Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1). Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4). Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9). EE sk] Clutch slipping (Chapter 6). yf

Engine backfires L] Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). L] Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2). L) Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). L] Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4).

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running Low oil level or incorrect grade (Weekly checks). Faulty oil pressure switch (Chapter 12). Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2). High. engine operating temperature (Chapter 3). Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2). Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2). Oonouoo

Engine runs-on after switching off 1 (1 LC] C1

Idle speed excessively high (Chapter 1). Faulty anti-run-on solenoid (Chapter 4). Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2). High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Engine noises Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or under load Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4). Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2). Worn or damaged distributor or other ignition system component (Chapter 5).

Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). a Whistling or wheezing noises [) ] [] L]

Leaking Leaking Leaking Blowing

inlet manifold or carburettor gasket (Chapter 4). exhaust manifold gasket or pipe to manifold joint (Chapter 1). vacuum hose (Chapters 4, 5 and 9). cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).

Tapping or rattling noises (1

Faulty hydraulic tappets (Chapter 1 or 2),

CL] Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2). [] Worn timing belt or tensioner (Chapter 2). L] Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator etc) (Chapters 3 and 5).

Knocking or thumping noises L] Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) (Chapter 2). CL] Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) (Chapter 2). L] Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2). L] Ancillary component fault (alternator, water pump etc) (Chapters 3 and 5).

2 Cooling system Overheating Insufficient coolant in system (Weekly checks). Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Radiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3). ‘Electric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).

Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3). Timing belt worn, or incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3). Air lock in cooling system (Chapter 1). REN DEES

Overcooling

External coolant leakage Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1). Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3). Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3). Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3). Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3). OOOOOO Core plug leaking (Chapter 2).

Internal coolant leakage [] Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2). L] Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2).

(] Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).

Corrosion

C)

CL] Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1). E] Incorrect antifreeze mixture or inappropriate type (Chapter 1).

Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).

*

|

Fault Finding rere1s ea

a ee

3 Fuel and exhaust systems Excessive fuel consumption

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1). Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 4). Choke cable incorrectly adjusted or choke sticking (Chapter 4). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Booey Tyres under-inflated (Weekly checks).

C] [J

Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 1). Carburettor float chamber flooding (Chapter 4).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system CL} L] []

Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapter 1). Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapter 1). Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 1).

[]

Clutch friction plate friction material contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6). Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

4 Clutch Pedal travels to floor -no pressure or very little resistance [1] Broken clutch cable (Chapter 6). L) Faulty clutch pedal self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 6). L] Broken clutch release bearing or fork (Chapter 6). L]) Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

m

Judder as clutch is engaged —

' Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) Faulty clutch pedal self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 6). Clutch friction plate sticking on transmission input shaft-splines (Chapter 6). Clutch friction plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6). Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6). aw aoTransmission input shaft seized in crankshaft spigot bearing (Chapter 2). {J Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).

(1 Clutch cable sticking or frayed (Chapter 6). Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 23 LJ Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2). [] Clutch friction plate hub or ene nmesin input shaft splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when Gspressing or releasing clutch pedal

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) (1 {1

Faulty clutch pedal self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 6). Clutch friction plate friction material excessively worn (Chapter 6).

Clutch friction plate friction material contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6). Clutch friction plate friction material excessively worn (Chapter 6).

a

Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6). Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6). Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6). Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6). Broken clutch friction plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

5 Manual gearbox Noisy in neutral with engine running

Jumps out of gear

C]

[1 1 (1

1

Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal released but not when depressed) (Chapter 7).* Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gear [1

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7).*

Difficulty engaging gears (1. Clutch fault (Chapter 6). - [J C

[

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter Zz) Incorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7).

Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*

Se

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7). Incorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7). Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*

C1 Worn selector forks (Chapter 7).*

Vibration C1 Lack of oil (Chapter 1). L] Worn bearings (Chapter 7).*

Lubricant leaks (1

Leaking driveshaft oil seal (Chapter 7). 1 Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7).* 1 Leaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7).* “Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition’so that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic .

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Fault Finding

6 Automatic transmission Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.

Fluid leakage ]

a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used. c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral. d) Poor gear shift quality, or erratic gear changes. 1] Refer any problems to a Rover dealer, or.an automatic

Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid

leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown onto the transmission by air flow. L] To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using a degreasing agent or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low speed, so that air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The following are common areas of leakage: a) Fluid pan (transmission sump). b) Dipstick tube (Chapter 7). C) Transmission-to-fluid cooler fluid pipes/unions (Chapter 7).

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

transmission specialist.

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator pedal fully depressed C1

Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1). Incorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park or Neutral L] LJ

Faulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7). Incorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).

- Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

General gear selection problems

[] There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,

1

check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter

L] Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).

The most likely cause of gear selection problems is a faulty or

poorly-adjusted gear selector mechanism. The following are common

problems associated with a faulty selector mechanism:

1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.

7 Driveshafts Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full lock) L] Lack of constant velocity.joint lubricant (Chapter 8). L] Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating L]

Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

L] Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

8 Braking system Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, the front wheel alignment is correct and the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking CL] Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake pads/shoes on one side (Chapter 1). Seized or partially seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder piston (Chapter 9). A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides (Chapter 1). Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). Rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). He ee a Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when . brakes applied L]

Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal backing (Chapter 1). CL] Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum, especially if the vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapter 1).

L]

Foreign object (stone chipping etc) trapped between brake disc and splash shield (Chapter 1).

Excessive brake pedal travel C1 Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9). L] Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed LC) Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9). L] Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 1 or 9). CL] Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).

L]

Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9). Disconnected, damaged or insecuré brake servo vacuum hose (Chapter 9). Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9). Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9). Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapter 1). Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted (Chapter 1). PVT ET) RI Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminatedeXGhapien Ae soo)

Fault Finding

(sates SSS A tiaSSS 8 Braking syste m (continued) ENS TEES SSSI SESS SER RE SASS Judder felt through brake

when braking:

Nes

[] [)

P

pedal or steeri

h

ing wheel

: xcessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear drums (Chapter 9), Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapter 1). Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).

:

L] Wear in suspension, steering components or mountings (Chapter 9).

i

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eae —ea

a

ET

ee

Brakes binding L] Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9). [] Incorrectly adjusted handbrake mechanism or linkage (Chapter 1). | Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9). Rear wheels locking under normal braking CL] Rear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

[

Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

9 Suspension and steering |

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types or

Excessively stiff steering (Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10)

binding brakes ;

L]

Vehicle pulls to one side

1

Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

C1

L]

Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Defective tyre (Weekly checks).

(1) Excessive wearin suspension or steering components (Chapter eV L]

10).

Excessive play in steering :

wobble

and vibration

es

;

Ww lean fick orn steering. track rod balljoints (Chapter 10). Worn steering gear (Chapter 10).. Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

Soiehe

Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the

ee:

steering wheel) (Chapter 10).

Tyre wear excessive

O

Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the vehicle) (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn on inside or outside edges

1

~Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 10).

L] Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (Weekly checks).

C

Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 10).

L]

[1 Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components (Chapter 10).

:

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or when braking (1

_

Defective Hydragas units and/or dampers (where fitted)

[1] Genapter Broken or 10), weak suspension component (Chapter 10).

(1 Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10). Wandering or general instability Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or pemaponeys (Chapter 10). Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 10). Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 10). Wheel nuts loose (Chapter 1). 0) Defective Hydragas units and/or dampers (where fitted) (Chapter 10). Dei

Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one-edge only)

(Chapter 10). L]

[1 Wheel nuts loose (Chapter 1). ; 2 5

4 ;

;

OC Worn enrol d column universal joint(s) or intermediate coupling st i i

Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Wheel

L]

;

comect hart uae! ehonient Guacta: 10).

; a é Seized track rod balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapter 10).

Res

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapter 10). CL) Excessively hard cornering.

O Accident damage.

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges 1

Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in; centre ore of tread Mi hea [] Tyres over-inflated (Weekly. checks). Tyres worn on inside and outside edges OC Tyres under-inflated (Weekly checks).

Tyres worn unevenly Tyres out of balance (Weekly checks). Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Weekly checks). Defective Hydragas units and/or worn dampers (where fitted) (Chapter 10). ’ Faulty tyre (Weekly checks). Shia

|

_ 10 Electrical system j |

Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section

Battery will not hold a charge for more than.a few

a

days

C1 . £

Battery defective internally (Chapter 5). Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1).

. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Weekly checks). Alternator drivebelt worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5). Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5). Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapter 12). OOOOO

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Fault Finding

10 Electrical system (continued) Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of the glass

{ (1 (] CL] (1

(1 Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 12). C1] Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12). 11 Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Alterator drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5). Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5). Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5). Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 12).

Ignition warning light fails to come on [] []

Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12). Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning, light circuit (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively CL] Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Weekly checks). L] Wiper arm tension springs broken or arm pivots seized (Chapter 12). CL Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road dirt film (Weekly checks).

CL) Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative or unsatisfactory in operation

Lights inoperative

One or more washer jets inoperative

Bulb blown (Chapter 12). Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12). Blown fuse (Chapter 12). Faulty relay (Chapter 12). Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12). Faulty switch (Chapter 12). OOOOOO

L]

Blocked washer jet (Chapter 12).

LJ [J

Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12). Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Weekly checks).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic Instrument readings increase with engine speed (1

Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 5).

Fuel or temperature gauge give no reading []

Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or se

(1 Wiring open circuit (Chapter 12). [] Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum reading L]

Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).

(1 Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12). [J Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative or unsatisfactory in operation Horn operates all the time [] L]

Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12). Horn cable to horn push earthed (Chapter 12).

Horn fails to operate C1. Blown fuse (Chapter 12). LJ

Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12).

L]. Faulty horn (Chapter 12). Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound L]

‘1

Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).

Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).

() Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

_Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative or unsatisfactory in operation Wipers fail to operate or operate very slowly Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (Chapter 12). Blown fuse (Chapter 12). Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12). Faulty relay (Chapter 12). 2B) ty Eye Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

Washer pump fails to operate L)

Broken or disconnected he) or connections (Chapter 12).

(Blown fuse (Chapter 12). (] L]

Faulty washer switch (Chapter 42). Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted from jets CL] Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

Electric windows (EOD SITES or unsatisfactory in operation Window glass will only move in one direction L] Faulty switch (Chapter 12). Window glass slow to move [] Incorrectly adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11). CL} Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter 11). C} Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).

1

Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Window glass fails to move CL] Incorrectly adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11). L] Blown fuse (Chapter 12). [] Faulty relay (Chapter 12). (Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12). [] Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Central locking system inoperative or unsatisfactory in operation Complete system failure L] Blown fuse (Chapter 12). (Faulty relay (Chapter 12). L)

=,

Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock L) Faulty master switch (Chapter 12). (1 Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11). ‘(0 Faulty relay (Chapter 12). One motor fails to operate Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12). Faulty motor (Chapter 12). Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11). Cate Fault in door latch (Chapter 11).

Glossary of Technical Terms A ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system, usually electronically controlled, that senses incipient wheel lockup during braking and relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are about to skid.

Air bag

An inflatable bag hidden

in the

steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or

Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust created by brake systems should never be inhaled or ingested. Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid beam that connects the two wheels at one end of the vehicle. An axle which also transmits power to the wheels is known as a live axle.

glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on collision, the bags inflate, preventing the

Axleshaft

driver and front passenger from being thrown forward into the steering wheel or windscreen. Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing, containing a filter element, which removes dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the engine. Air filter element The actual filter in an air cleaner system, usually manufactured from pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular intervals.

from the final drive assembly

A single rotating shaft, on either

side of the differential, which delivers power

to the drive

wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

Ball

bearing

An_anti-friction

bearing

consisting of a hardened inner and outer race with hardened steel balls between Bearing The curved surface on a bore, or the part assembled into permits relative motion between

two races. shaft or ina either, that them with

minimum wear and friction.

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Brake drum The component of a drum brake that rotates with the wheels. Brake linings The friction material which contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or riveted to the brake pads or shoes. Brake pads_ The replaceable friction pads that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are applied. Brake pads consist of a friction material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing plate. Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to which the brake linings are mounted and which forces the lining against the rotating drum during braking. Braking systems For more information on braking systems, consult the Haynes Automotive Brake Manual. Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle providing greater leverage. Bulkhead The insulated partition between the engine and the passenger compartment.

C Caliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brake assembly that straddles the disc and carries the brake pads. The caliper also contains the hydraulic components that cause the pads to pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set

to measure inside or outside dimensions of an

Bearing

object. ; Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a series of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms. The camshaft may be driven by gears, by sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a belt. Canister A container in an evaporative

Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of the connecting rod that’s attached to the crankshaft.

emission control system; contains activated charcoal granules to trap vapours from the fuel system.

Air filter

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into a recessed hexagonal hole. a Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make temporary electrical connections. Alternator A component in the electrical system which converts mechanical energy from a drivebelt into electrical energy to charge the battery and to operate the starting system, ignition system and _ electrical accessories. Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the flow of electric current. One amp is the amount of current produced by one volt acting through a resistance of one ohm. Anaerobic sealer A substance used to

Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component that is opened to purge the hydraulic system

of air. Also called a bleed screw. Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air from lines of a hydraulic brake system.

prevent bolts and screws from loosening. Anaerobic means that it does. not require oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is widely used. Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene glycol) mixed with water, and added to a vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and the formation of rust and other deposits that would tend to clog the radiator and coolant passages and reduce cooling efficiency. A coating that Anti-seize compound reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that are subjected to high temperatures, such as

exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great heat resistance, commonly used in the composition of brake friction materials.

Canister

Brake bleeding Brake disc The component of a disc brake that rotates with the wheels.

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with air in the proper proportions to provide a desired power output from a spark ignition internal combustion engine. Castellated Resembling the parapets along the top of a castle wall. For example, a castellated balljoint stud nut. Castor In wheel alignment, the backward or forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is positive when the steering axis is inclined rearward at the top.

rere2x0 Glossary of Technical Terms Catalytic converter A silencer-like device in the exhaust system which converts certain pollutants in the exhaust gees into less harmful substances.

D Diagnostic

code Code numbers obtained by accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine management computer. This code can be used

to determine

the area

in the system

where a malfunction may be located. Disc brake

A brake design incorporating a

rotating disc onto which brake pads are squeezed. The resulting friction converts the energy of a moving vehicle into heat. Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine that uses two overhead camshafts, usually one for the intake valves and one for the exhaust valves. Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to drive accessories such as the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Catalytic converter Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent endwise movement of cylindrical parts and shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece such as a shaft.

_ Clearance

Endfloat The amount movement between two parts. crankshaft, the distance that can move forward and back

of lengthwise As applied to a the crankshaft in the cylinder

block. Engine management system (EMS) A computer controlled system which manages the fuel injection and the ignition systems in an integrated fashion. Exhaust manifold A part with several passages through which exhaust gases leave — the engine combustion chambers and enter’ the exhaust pipe.

F Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling device which permits variable engine fan speeds in relation to engine speeds.

—

Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened steel, ground to an exact thickness,

used to

check or measure clearances between parts.

The amount of space between

two parts. For example, between a piston and a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal, etc.

Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in various sizes throughout a vehicle, for example as a springing medium. in the suspension and in the valve train. Compression Reduction in volume, and increase in pressure and temperature, of a gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller

space. Compression ratio The relationship between cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead centre and cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead centre. Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of universal joint that. cancels out vibrations caused by driving power being transmitted through an angle. Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal device

Accessory drivebelts Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit motion. Commonly used when referring to the axleshafts ona front wheel drive vehicle. Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is pressed, curved brake shoes with friction linings press against the inside of the drum to slow or stop the vehicle.

E

inserted in a hole in a casting through which core was removed when the casting was formed. Also known as a freeze plug or expansion plug. Crankcase The lower part of the engine block in which the crankshaft rotates.

EGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaust gases into the intake air stream. Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel injection systems, or an anti-lock braking system. For more information refer to the

Crankshaft

Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual. Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer controlled fuel system that distributes fuel through an injector located in each intake port of the engine. > Emergency brake A braking system, independent of the main hydraulic system, that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever that actuates either front or rear brakes mechanically through a series of cables and linkages. Also known as a handbrake or — parking brake.

The main

rotating member,

or

shaft, running the length of the crankcase, with offset “throws” to which the connecting rods are attached.

Crankshaft assembly Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

Feeler blade

Firing order The order in which the engine cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes, beginning with the number one cylinder.

Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which energy is absorbed and stored by means of momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft to smooth out firing impulses. Free play The amount of travel before any action takes place. The “looseness” in a linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the initial application of force and actual movement. For example, the distance the — brake pedal moves before the pistons in the master cylinder are actuated.

Fuse An electrical device which protects a circuit against accidental overload. The typical fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is calibrated to melt at a predetermined current flow (expressed as amps) and break the circuit.

Fusible link A circuit protection device consisting of a conductor surrounded by heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as

the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be cut from the wire for replacement.

Glossary of Technical Terms GGap

Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with

The distance the spark must travel in jumping from the centre electrode to the side electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the spacing between the points in a contact breaker assembly in a conventional pointstype ignition, or to the distance between the reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an electronic ignition.

Ignition timing The moment at which the spark plug fires, usually expressed in the number of crankshaft degrees before the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Inlet

manifold

A tube

or

housing

with

passages through which flows the air-fuel mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with throttle body injection) or air only (port fuelinjected vehicles) to the port openings in the _cylinder head.

J Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle with a discharged or weak battery by attaching jump leads from the weak battery to a charged or helper battery.

L Adjusting spark plug gap

Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork, cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed between two metal surfaces to ensure a good seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket seals the joint between the block and the cylinder head.

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A brake hydraulic system control valve that works like a proportioning valve, but also takes into consideration the amount of weight carried by the rear axle. Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment nut, or other threaded component, in place. For example, a locknut is employed to keep the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in position. Lockwasher A form of washer designed to prevent an attaching nut from working loose.

MacPherson | strut A type of front suspension system devised by Earle MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original

form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar Gasket

Gauge An:instrument panel display used to monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an “analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical - readout is called a digital gauge.

H Halfshaft

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A rotating shaft that transmits

power from the final drive unit to a drive wheel, usually when referring to a live rear axle. . Harmonic balancer A device designed to reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the crankshaft. May be incorporated in the crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration _ damper. Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small . irregularities or differences in diameter in an ~ engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc. A tappet that utilises Hydraulic tappet hydraulic pressure from the engine’s _ lubrication system to maintain zero clearance

‘(constant contact with both camshaft and

valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also

reduce valve noise.

creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an integral coil spring and shock absorber - is

mounted between the body and the steering knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with the capability to measure voltage, current and resistance.

N NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines at higher temperatures.

O Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will produce a current of one amp. Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring electrical resistance. O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring is compressed into a groove to provide the sealing action. Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder head(s).

the valves located in the cylinder head, but with the camshaft located in the engine block. Oxygen sensor engine exhaust oxygen content this information called a Lambda

A device installed in the manifold, which senses the in the exhaust and converts into an electric current. Also sensor.

p Phillips screw A type of screw head having a cross instead of a slot for a corresponding type of screwdriver. Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread, available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are assembled and dismantled; the width of the crushed strip indicates the clearance between journal and bearing.

Passos

Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with universal joints at both ends that carries power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles. Proportioning valve A hydraulic control valve which limits the amount of pressure to the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent wheel lock-up.

Rack-and-pinion steering A steering system with a pinion gear on the end of the steering shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared wheel opened up and laid flat). When the steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns, moving the rack to the left or right. This movement is transmitted through the track rods to the steering arms at the wheels. Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device designed to reduce the temperature of the coolant in an internal combustion engine cooling system. Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat transfer agent in an air-conditioning system. R-12 has been: the principle refrigerant for

many years; recently, however, manufacturers have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere.

Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaft or pivots on a. stud. In an overhead valve engine, the rocker arm converts the upward movement of the pushrod into a downward movement to open a valve.

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Glossary of Technical Terms

Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device inside the cap that connects the centre electrode and the outer terminals as it turns, distributing the high voltage from the coil secondary winding to the proper spark plug. Also, that part of an alternator which rotates inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly of a turbocharger, including the compressor wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.

Sprocket A tooth or projection on the periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to the sprocket wheel itself. Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an automatic transmission, a switch that prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral or Park. Strut See MacPherson strut.

Runout The amount_of wobble (in-and-out movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.

S Sealant leakage

A liquid or paste used to prevent at a joint. Sometimes used in

conjunction with a gasket. Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design which. integrates the reflector, lens and filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece unit. When a filament burns out or the lens cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced. Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide accessory drivebelt that’s used on some newer vehicles to drive all the accessories, instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts. Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by an automatic tensioner.

+ Tappet A cylindrical component which transmits motion from the cam to the valve stem, either directly or via a pushrod and rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.

Thermostat A heat-controlled valve that regulates the flow of coolant between the cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining optimum engine operating temperature. A thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in which the temperature is regulated. © Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch assembly that is moved in to the release levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing. Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the camshaft. Serious engine damage may result if it breaks in service. Timing chain A chain which drives the camshaft. r

Toe-in

The amount

the front wheels are

closer together at the front than at the rear. On rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of

Serpentine drivebelt Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust the clearance or relative positions between two parts. For example, shims inserted into or under bucket tappets control valve clearances. Clearance is adjusted by changing the thickness of the shim.

Slide hammer A special puller that screws into or hooks onto a component such as a shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the - shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to knock the component free.

Normally used to increase the power output ~ from a given engine displacement, but can — also be used primarily to reduce exhaust emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel engine).

U Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted connection for transmitting power from a driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-joint.consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a _ cross-shaped member called the spider.

The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The

out-of-round condition of a rotating part.

Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.

toe-in is usually specified to keep the front wheels running parallel on the road by offsetting other forces that tend to spread the wheels apart. Toe-out The amount the front wheels are closer together at the rear than at the front. On front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of toe-out is usually specified. Tools For full information on choosing and using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive

Tools Manual. Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to

a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from another one with the same colour insulator. Tune-up A process of accurate and careful adjustments and parts replacement to obtain the best possible engine performance.

V Valve A device through which the flow of liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk may be started, stopped, or regulated by a movable part that opens, shuts, or partially obstructs one or more.ports or passageways. A valve is also the movable part of such a device. Valve clearance The clearance between the valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is measured when the valve is closed. Vernier caliper A precision measuring

instrument that measures inside and outside dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a micrometer, but more convenient. Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its resistance to flow. ; Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure” in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current of one ampere through a resistance of one ohm.

W Welding Various processes used to join metal items by heating the areas to be joined to a molten state and fusing them together. For more information refer to the Haynes © Automotive Welding Manual. Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical system, using standardised symbols. For more information refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual.

Index

ReFe23

‘Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” ¢ “page number”

Accelerator cable - 4A°5, 4Be5, 4Ce3 Accelerator pedal - 4A°6 Aerial - 12°19 Air cleaner - 1°18, 4Ae3, 4Be3, 4Ce2 Airbag - 12°13 Alternator drive pulley - 2A¢11 drivebelt - 1°16

removal and refitting - 5Ce3

- Anti-roll bar - 10°6, 10°14

Antifreeze - 0¢11, 0°16 ATF - 0°16, 1°10, 7Be2 Automatic transmission - 7Be1 et seq fault finding - REFe12, REFe16 fluid - 0°16, 1°10, 7B°2 fluid pan gasket/fluid cooler/hoses - 7Be6 kickdown cable - 7Be2

‘oil seals - 7Be4 removal and refitting - 7Be8 selector cable - 7Be3 starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch - 7Be7

B

fault finding - REFe12, REFe15 pedal - 6e2 release mechanism - 6e4

Coil - 5A°4 Compression test - 2Ae8

Contents - 0°2 Conversion factors - REFe2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3e7 et seq

.

Bumpers - 11¢4

C automatic transmission selector - 7Be3

Body electrical systems - 12¢1 et seq 11¢°7

Bodywork and fittings - 11°1 et seq Bonnet - 11°6 Bonnet lock and release cable - 11°6 Braking system - 9¢1 et seq

bleeding - 9e4 brake fluid - 0°12, 0°16, 1°18. brake pedal - 9e2 brake backplate - 9e11

coolant - 0°11, 0°16 coolant pump - 3¢6 cooling fan - 3e4 draining - 1°17 fault finding - REFe12, REFe14 flushing - 1°17 heater components - 3¢7 heater controls - 3e9 hoses - 1°14, 3e2 radiator - 3e2 refilling - 1°17 switches - 3¢5 thermostat - 3°3 Crankshaft - 2Be9, 2Be12, 2Be13 Crankshaft oil seals - 2Ae25 Crankshaft sensor/reluctor ring - 5A¢5 Cylinder block/crankcase - 2Be10

bonnet release - 11°6 choke - 4A®6 clutch - 6e2 handbrake - 9°12 kickdown - 7Be2 gpeedometer - 12°15

Cylinder head - 2Ae20, 2Be6, 2Be8 Cylinder head cover - 2A°9

throttle’- 4Ae5, 4Be5, 4Ce3_

Cylinder liners - 2Be11

Camshaft cover - 2Ae11 Camshaft oil seals - 2A°16

Camshaft/hydraulic tappets - 2Ae¢17 ' Capacities - 0°16 Carburettor overhaul and adjustments - 4A¢7

Carburettor removal and refitting - 4A¢6 Carpets - 11¢2, 11°19 Cassette storage holder - 11°19 Catalytic converter - 4Ae12, 4De2 Central locking system - 11°14, 12°16

Charging system testing - 5Ce3 Choke cable - 4A°6 Cigar lighter - 12°15

checks - 1°7, 1°11

Clock - 12°13

fault finding - REFe12, REFe16

Clutch - 6¢7 et seq

Se a Ae 4

assembly - 6e3 cable - 6e2 check - 1e9

Cables

Battery booster - 0°7 checks - 0¢15, 1°8 removal and refitting - 5C*3 terminals- 0°6 testing and charging - 5Ce2 Bearings - 2Be12 Bleeding the brakes - 9e4 Body damage - 11¢2 Body exterior fittings Body panels - 11°4

front brake pads - 9°6 front brake caliper - 9e7 front brake disc - 9e9 handbrake adjustment - 1°12 handbrake lever - 9°12 handbrake cable - 9¢12 master cylinder - 9¢5 pipes and hoses - 9e5 pressure regulating valve - 9e9 rear brake shoes - 9¢10 rear brake drum - 9¢10 stop lamp switch - 9¢13 vacuum servo unit - 9e3 warning lamps - 9¢13 wheel cylinder - 9¢11 Bulbs exterior- 12¢8 general - 12¢8 interior - 12¢9 ratings - 12¢2

D Dents - 11¢2 : Dimensions and weights - REFe1 Distributor - 5Ae3, 5Be4 Distributor cap/HT leads - 1¢16 Door lock and handle - 11¢12 Doors - 11°11 Driveshafts - 8°71 et seq gaiter and CV joint checks - 1¢11

fault finding - REFe12, REFe16 gaiter renewal - 8e3 overhaul - 8¢1 removal and refitting - 8e2

REFe2,

INGEX

E Earth fault check Electric windows Electrical system Electrical system REFe17

- 12¢4 - 11°16, 12°16 check - 0°14 fault finding - 12°3, REFe12,

Emission control systems - 4De7 et seq components - 4De2 j

Engine in-car repair procedures - 2Ae71 et s Engine removal and general overhaul procedures - 2Be1 et seq alternator drive pulley - 2Ae11

bearings - 2Be12 camshaft cover - 2A°11

camshaft oil seals - 2A°16 camshaft/hydraulic tappets - 2A°17 compression test - 2Ae8 crankshaft - 2Be9, 2Be12, 2Be13 crankshaft oil seals - 2Ae25 crankshaft sensor/reluctor ring - 5Ae5 cylinder block/crankcase - 2Be10 cylinder head cover - 2Ae9 cylinder head - 2Ae20, 2Be6, 2Be8 cylinder liners - 2Be11 fault finding - REFe12, REFe13 flywheel - 2Ae25 misfire - 5A°6, 5Be4 mountings - 2A°25 oil - 0°11, 0°16, 198 oil filter - 1¢8

oil pump - 2A923 overhaul - 2Be1, 2Be6, 2Be13 piston rings - 2Be13 piston/connecting rod - 2Be8, 2Be11, 2Be16 sump - 2A°22 TDC - 2Ae9 timing belt - 1°21, 2Ae12 timing belt covers - 2A¢11 valves - 2Be7 Engine/transmission removal/refitting - 2Be4 Exhaust manifold - 4Ae10, 4Be9, 4Ce8 Exhaust system checks - 1°11

Exterior body fittings - 11°7

FE Facia - 11°20 _ Fault finding - REF*12 et seq automatic transmission - REFe12, REFe16

braking system ~REFe12, REFe16 clutch - REFe12, REFe15 cooling system - REFe12, REFe14 driveshafts - REFe12, REFe16

electrical system - REFe12, REFe17 f

engine - REFe12, REFe13 fuel and exhaust systems - REFe12, REFe15 manual gearbox - REFe12, REFe15 suspension and steering - REFe12, REFe17 Fluids - 0°16 Flywheel - 2A®25 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models - 4Ae1 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point injection models - 4Be1 et seq Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection models - 4Ce1 et seq air cleaner - 1°18, 4A°3, 4Be3, 4Ce2 carburettor diagnosis, overhaul and adjustments - 4Ae7 carburettor removal/refitting - 4Ae6 catalytic converter - 4Ae12, 4De2 choke cable - 4Ae6 component checks - 1°10 depressurisation - 4Be4

emission control components - 4De2 exhaust system inspection/renewal - 4A¢10, 4Be9, 4Ce8 fault finding - REFe12, REFe15 fuel filter - 1°18 fuel gauge sender unit - 4Ae4, 4Be4 injection system adjustment/ testing/

component renewal and refitting - 4Be5, 4Ce3

fuel pump - 4Ae4, 4Be4 fuel tank - 4Ae5, 4Be5, 4Ce3 idle speed/mixture - 1°15 manifolds - 4Ae9, 4Ae10, 4Be8, 4Be9, 4Ce7, 4Ce8 oxygen sensor - 1°15, 4De3 pressure check - 4Be4, 4Ce3 throttle cable - 4A¢5, 4Be5, 4Ce3 throttle pedal - 4A°6 unleaded petrol - 4Ae2 Fuses --12¢1, 12¢4

G Gearbox oil - 0°16, 1°9, 7Ae2 Glass - 11°8, 11014 Glossary of technical terms - REFe19 Glovebox - 11°19

H Handbrake adjustment - 1¢12 cable - 9e12 lever - 9¢12 Headlamp alignment - 12°11 Headlamp unit - 12°10

Headlining - 11°19 Heated rear window - 12°16 Heater components - 3°7 Heater controls - 3°9 Horn - 12°16 t Hydragas - 10¢4, 10¢10, 10¢11, 10°12, 10°15. Hydraulic fluid - 0°12, 0°16, 1°18 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 9¢5 Hydraulic system bleeding - 9°4

Idle speed/mixture - 1°15 Ignition system - carburettor models -

5A¢1 et seq Ignition system - fuel injection models 5Be1 et seq

amplifier module - 5Ae¢4 HT coil - 5Ae4, 5Be4 ignition switch - 10°19 system testing - 5A°6, 5Be4 timing - 1°20 Inlet manifold - 4Ae¢9, 4Be8, 4Ce7 Instrument panel - 12¢11, 12°12

Interior trim- 11°18 Introduction to your Rover Metro/100 - 0¢4

J Jacking and vehicle support - REFe5 Jump starting - 0°7

K Kickdown cable - 7Be2

L Lambda sensor - 1°15, 4De3 Lamp units exterior - 12°10 Lamp units interior - 12°12 Leaks - 0¢9, 1¢8, 1°14 Locks bonnet - 11°6 door - 11°12 tailgate - 11°10 Loudspeakers - 12¢19 Lubricants and fluids - 0°16

Maintenance schedule - 1¢2 Manifolds - 4Ae¢9, 4A°10, 4Be8, 4Be9, 4Ce7, 4Ce8 Manual gearbox - 7A°1 et seq fault finding - REFe12, REFe15

Index

gearchange linkage - 0°16, 7Ae2

oil - 0°16, 1°9, 7Ae2 oil seals - 7Ae4 overhaul - 7Ae7 removal and refitting - 7Ae6 reversing lamp switch - 7Ae6 Master cylinder - 9¢5 Mirrors - 11°16 Mixture/idle speed - 1°15 MOT test checks - REFe8