Haynes Renault Trafic Diesel May 2001 to 2011 (Y to 11 reg) Owners Workshop Manual 0857335510, 9780857335517

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RENAULT TRAFIC obieset May 2001 to 2011 (Yto11reg)

_

1op step-by-step maintenance and repair

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Check out our website www.haynes.co.uk to locate your nearest stockist and to view our full catalogue. Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

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egal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

Renault Trafic Il

Owners Workshop Manual Vlartynn Randall jodels covered

(5551 - 7AR1 - 272)

afic panel vans with 1.9 litre (1870cc) and 2.0 litre (1995cc) diesel engines

So covers major features of Nissan Primastar 9es NOT cover petro! models, 2.5 litre diesel engine, ‘Quickshift’ auto-shift transmission ‘features specific to specialist bodywork/conversions

Haynes Publishing 2012

eee FGHIJ .

book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

KLMNO PQRS

| rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or ansmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, cluding photocopying, recording or by any information storage or trieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Ider.

BN 978 0 85733 551 7

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

itish Library Cataloguing in Publication Data catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

RENAULT

TRAFIC

Introduction

Page

O0e*4

Safety first!

Page

0Oe°5

Introduction

Page

0*6

If your vehicle won't start

Page

0*6

Jump starting

Page

0°*7

Wheel changing

Page

0e*8

Identifying leaks

Page

099

Towing

Page

O09

Introduction

Page

010

Underbonnet check points

Page

0°10

Roadside repairs

Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Page

0Oe11

Coolant level

Page

0912

Brake and clutch fluid level

Page

0°12

Power steering fluid level

Page

0913

Screen washer fluid level

Page

0913

Wiper blades

Page

0°13

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0°14

Battery

Page

0°15

Bulbs and fuses

Page

0e16

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0¢17

Tyre pressures

Page 0°17

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing

Page

e4

Servicing specifications

Page

1¢2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1¢3

Maintenance procedures

Page

196

legal Copying

‘is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully opies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any orm. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate tatutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems 1.9 litre engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

2.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Be1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2Ce1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems

Page

4Ae1

Emission control systems

Page

4Be1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5e1

Clutch

Page

6¢e1

Manual transmission

Page

7e1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Braking system

Page

9e1

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical system

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12016

Transmission

Brakes and suspension

Body equipment

REFERENCE Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Fuel economy

Page

REFe2

Conversion factors

Page

REFe6

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe7

General repair procedures

Page

REFe8

Page

REFe9 REFe9

Vehicle identification numbers

:

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

Tools and working facilities

Page REFe10

MOT test checks

Page REFe12

Fault finding

Page REFe16

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe26

Index

Page REFe31

oe4 INtroduction The Renault Trafic Il was introduced in 2001; the product of collaboration between Renault and Vauxhall. This stylish van set

(ABS) and ESP (Electronic Stability Program) available as an option. All models are equipped with independent front McPherson

new standards for performance, economy, passenger protection and comfort levels. The Trafic shares the same body and mechanical equipment as the Vauxhall Vivaro and Nissan Primastar, using well-proven turbo-diesel engines used elsewhere in the Renault

strut type suspension, and a beam-type rear axle, incorporating separate dampers and coil springs. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range. As with all Renault models, safety features are of paramount importance, with driver’s airbag as standard equipment, and passenger’s airbag and side airbags available as an option. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the Renault Trafic should provide reliable, spacious, comfortable transport.

range. The body was available in several different configurations, including SWB, LWB, high-roof, low-roof, Combi (minibus) and tipper. These front-wheel drive models where given a ‘soft’ facelift in 2006, including minor changes to the front and rear bumpers, headlights, radiator grille, etc. The diesel engines are all turbocharged, direct injection, in-line, 4-cylinder units of 1870 cc or 1995 cc displacement. The 1.9 litre engines are single overhead camshaft design with 8 valves, whereas the 2.0 litre engines are double overhead camshaft design, with 16 valves. The engines feature a comprehensive engine management system with extensive emission control equipment. Transmissions are either 5- or 6-speed manual with a hydraulically-operated clutch. Braking is by discs all round, with a load-sensing valve fitted to non-ABS models to regulate the rear braking pressure in relation to the payload. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models, with anti-lock braking

Your Renault manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle . It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a garage and going

there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate — if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning e Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing e When working under or near a raised vehicle, always ps supplement the jack

with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture

sis

i:

FS

||

under a car which is only supported by = a jack. © Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. @ Do not smoke or allow naked lights

(including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock @ Ignition HT and Xenon headlight voltages can aN be dangerous, ~ especially to re people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near these systems with

the engine running or the ignition switched on.

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they can contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

ates =

£3

LEE

e Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Hydrofluoric acid ® This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers orjump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and trim panels. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands,

A

face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. © Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

DON’T e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. e Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

© Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

® Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

© Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up

© Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the

electrical system. §

Special hazards

@ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

oil and fuel spills at once. _¢ Don’t allow children or pets to play in or

near a vehicle being worked on.

oo Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your vehicle won’t start and the starter motor doesn’tJ turn a

|

If your vehicle won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal —

Slide the passenger’s seat rearwards, fold the carpet forward,

[_] Is there fuel in the tank?

undo the fasteners, remove the cover, and make sure that the

[_]

battery terminals are clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

5

Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?

Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

=X

Check the mass airflow sensor wiring connector for security.

Check the security of the battery connections (under the passenger compartment floor).

Check the security of the preheating system control unit.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.

Roadside repairs « Jump starting

FNMA)

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct

When jump-starting a vehicle using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

V

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. Caution: Remove the key in case the

central locking engages when the jump leads are connected Y

Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Slide the passenger’s seat fully rearwards, and fold the floor carpet forwards to

vy)

battery.

7

The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery.

access the battery cover.

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster

whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

o

Conn ect one end of the black jump lead

to a bolt or bracket on the engine block on the vehicle providing the jump start.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the cooling fan, drivebelts or other moving parts on the engine.

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the discharged battery.

Start the engine, then with the engine running at fast idle speed disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

os Roadside repairs Wheel changing Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation

[_]

When a puncture occurs, stop as soonas_ it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

[|

If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. (_} Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

(]

one being removed — a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

The jack and tools are stored under the driver’s seat, whilst the spare wheel is located under the rear of the vehicle.

Slacken the wheel carrier left-hand security bolt a few turns, using the tool provided in the kit, then unscrew the carrier right-hand bolt completely.

Push the carrier to the left-hand side a little until it clears the security bolt. Lower the carrier and wheel - it’s heavy!

Prise off the punctured wheel cover/hub cap, slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn, using the tool provided. If the bolts are too tight, DON’T stand on the brace to

Place the jack under the lifting point nearest the wheel, then raise the jack until the spigot on the head engages with the hole in the lifting point.

Raise the vehicle until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, then unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.

undo them -— call for assistance.

Fit the spare wheel, and screw in the bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

Finally Bi

ge

Remove the wheel chocks. Position the spare wheel on the carrier, then lift the carrier into place, engaging it with the security bolt. Refit the remaining carrier bolt and tighten them both securely. Stow the jack and tools back in the vehicle. Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. In the case of the space-saver spare wheel, this pressure is much higher than for a normal tyre.

Securely tighten the wheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern sequence, then refit the wheel trim or hub cap, as applicable.

[_]

The wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque (140 Nm/ 103 Ibf ft) at the earliest possible opportunity. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Roadside repairs o-9 identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated delay.

clothing,

without

from, especially if an engine undershield is fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Sump oil

HAYNES

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to

what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to remove the engine undershield,

clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to

locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Oil from filter

Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

..or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. wy

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

y

certainly brake fluid.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home — or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another vehicle is easy enough, but observe the following points: Use a proper tow-rope — they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work.

A towing eye socket is provided in the front bumper, and a towing eye is located below the rear bumper. The front socket is hidden

behind a cover panel at the right-hand end of the front bumper (see illustration). Before being towed, release the handbrake

and select neutral on the transmission. Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. [JOn models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

The driver of the vehicle being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. |_|Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

o10 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example:

| ]Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. [_]Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

If your vehicle develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points |

@1.9 litre engine A Engine oil level filler cap/ dipstick

B Coolant expansion tank C Brake (and clutch) fluid reservoir

D Power steering fluid reservoir

E Screen washer fluid reservoir

, Le

12.7b ... then turn the secondary element clockwise, and mark its travel limit again

three cuts on the threads is ideal for doing this (see illustration). 6 Some of these vehicles are fitted with dual mass flywheels. Whilst Renault do not publish any checking procedures, some clutch and flywheel manufacturers do publish some information concerning rotational and lateral movement. 7 In order to check the rotational movement,

lock the flywheel in place as previously described. Rotate the flywheel secondary element (drive surface) by hand anticlockwise,

mark

its position

in relation

to

12.9a Attach a length of steel strip to the flywheel secondary element (drive surface)...

8 Renault state that the maximum free rotation is 60 mm or 25°. If in any doubt, consult a Renault dealer or transmission specialist as to whether a new unit is needed. 9 In order to check the lateral movement of the flywheel, attach a length of steel strip to the flywheel secondary element (drive surface), and mount a DTI gauge so that it measures in-line with the edge of the secondary flywheel element (see illustrations). Pull the steel strip away from the flywheel, zero the DTI gauge, then push the strip towards the flywheel and read off the measurement. The permissible amount of lateral movement varies from one flywheel part number to the next. Compare the measurement taken with the manufacturer’s specification. If in any

the primary flywheel element (bolted to the crankshaft), then rotate it by hand clockwise and mark its position. Bear in mind, that the free rotational movement is being measured here — do not use excessive force to rotate the secondary element. Mark the limits of the rotational movement (see illustrations).

Refitting

12.12 Mark the bolts and holes to ensure correct angle-tightening of the flywheel bolts

10 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. 11 Ensure that the locating dowel is in position (where fitted) and offer up the flywheel, locating it on the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. If the original is being refitted, align the marks made prior to removal. 12 Lock the flywheel using the method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque and angle. To ensure all the bolts are tightened to the correct angle, make marks on the bolts and flywheel bolt holes (see illustration). 13 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. 14 Refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7.

doubt, consult a Renault dealer or transmission

specialist as to whether a new unit is needed.

12.9b ...and mount a DTI gauge in-line with the edge of the secondary element

13 Crankshaft oil seals renewal

HVE Timing end oil seal 1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 4. 2A socket adapter is provided with the new crankshaft oil seal. Using the adapter, unscrew the old oil seal from the timing cover by rotating it anti-clockwise approximately 30°. 3 Clean the crankshaft and timing cover. 4 The new oil seal must not be lubricated during fitting. First, position the seal with its three raised segments aligned with the cut-outs in the timing cover and push the seal into the cover using hand pressure only. This

13.4 Locate the new seal on the timing cover with the raised segments aligned with the cut-outs

x

2Be20

2.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures will force the plastic protector from the centre of the oil seal (see illustration). 5 Using the adapter, tighten the oil seal securely (see illustration).

6 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 4.

Transmission end oil seal

at!

dy

ca

atl

i

SERIE:

13.5 Fit the adapter and tighten the seal securely

13.8 Remove the transmission end oil seal and housing

13.10 Use 3 bolts to act as guides when fitting the new oil seal housing

13.11

Press the housing into position and remove the seal protector

Note: The transmission end oil seal is supplied together with the oil seal housing and cannot be renewed separately. 7 Remove the flywheel as described in Section 12. 8 Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil seal housing from the cylinder block/baseplate (see illustration). 9 Clean the contact faces of the cylinder block and baseplate. Do not remove the protector or touch the lip of the new oil seal during fitting as this will result in oil leakage. 10 Carefully locate the oil seal and housing onto the crankshaft and insert three 90 mm long M6 bolts loosely to act as guides (see illustration). Do not press the housing into position at this stage. 11 Apply even pressure to the housing and press it into position until it contacts the cylinder block. Now remove the protector and the 3 guide bolts (see illustration). 12 Insert the retaining bolts and fingertighten, then tighten them to the initial torque given in the Specifications in the sequence shown (see illustration). 13 Tighten the bolts to their final torque using the same sequence. 14 Refit the flywheel as described in Sec-

tion 12.

14 Engine/transmission mountings inspection and renewal

HH

Inspection 1 If improved access is required, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. 5 Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back-and-forth, or from side-to-side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected, even from new components,

13.12 Tightening sequence for the transmission end oil seal housing bolts

excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, and then renew any worn components as described below.

‘

Bs:

4

Renewal

Right-hand mounting 6 Remove the engine undertray, then place a jack beneath the engine baseplate (NOT the sump) with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. Alternately, attach an engine support bar to the lifting brackets and support the weight of the engine with the bar. Note: DO NOT support the engine directly beneath the sump as it may be distorted causing the strainer to be blocked and resulting in an incorrect high oil level with a risk of engine racing. 7 Unclip the power steering fluid reservoir from the bonnet slam panel and move it to one side. There’s no need to disconnect the fluid pipes. 8 Unclip the fuel pipes and wiring harness from the right-hand engine mounting (see illustration). 9 Undo the bolt securing the mounting to bracket,

then

undo

2Be21

.

ZS

14.8 Unclip the fuel pipes and wiring from the engine mounting bracket

the engine

2.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures

the 3 bolts

and remove the mounting assembly (see illustration). 10 Locate the new mounting on the body and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 11 Refit the mounting-to-bracket bolt and tighten it to the specified torque. 12 Re-attach the diesel fuel pipes and wiring harness to the mounting. 13 Remove the jack from underneath the engine or the engine support bar (as applicable), then refit the undertray.

Upper stabiliser bar

14.9 Undo the engine mounting bolts (arrowed)

14.14 Upper stabiliser bolts (arrowed shown with the engine remove for clarity)

damage on all components, and renew them where necessary. 19 Refit the mounting to the gearbox and tighten the nut and bolts to the specified torque. 20 Lower the jack and refit the engine undertray.

2 Remove the front bumper, bonnet and radiator grille as described in Chapter 11. 3 Pull the rubber seal from the top edge of the bonnet slam panel. 4 Remove both front headlights as described in Chapter 12. 5 Undo the bolts, drill out the rivets and remove the front impact absorbers/air deflector assembly (see illustrations 7.5a and 7.5b). 6 Release the retaining clip and move the power steering fluid reservoir to one side. There’s no need to disconnect the pipes. 7 Release the clamps and remove the intercooler hoses. 8 Undo the bolts securing the air cleaner support frame to the bonnet slam panel (see illustration 7.8). 9 Make alignment marks between the bonnet lock and the slam panel, then undo the bolts, manoeuvre the lock from place and disconnect the release cable (see illustrations 7.9a and 7.9b). Release the cable/ wiring loom from the retaining clips on the slam panel. 10 Undo the bolts and release the engine management ECM bracket and bonnet alarm contact switch bracket from the slam panel (see illustration 7.10). 11 Release the clips, undo the bolts, and remove the complete front/slam panel from the vehicle (see illustrations 7.11a to 7.11e). 12 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter as described in Chapter 1, then refit and tighten the drain plug.

Rear mounting stabiliser bar 21 If not already done, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine undertray. 22 Unscrew and remove the bolts from each end of the rear mounting stabiliser bar and remove the bar from underneath the vehicle (see illustration). 23 Check for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them as necessary. 24 Fit the stabiliser bar to the bracket and subframe and align the bolt holes. Insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 25 Refit the engine undertray, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

15 Oil cooler -

removal and refitting

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xs we

Note: The oil cooler is part of the oil filter housing; it would be good practice to renew the oil and oil filter whenever the oil cooler is removed.

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead as described in Chapter 5.

14 Undo the bolts securing the stabiliser bar to the engine bracket and the vehicle body. Remove the stabiliser bar (see illustration). 15 Refit the stabiliser bar, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Left-hand mounting 16 Remove the engine undertray, then place a jack beneath the transmission with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it

is supporting the weight of the transmission. 17 Undo the 2 bolts and one nut, then remove the left-hand mounting from the gearbox (see illustration).

18 Check

carefully for signs of wear

or

14.17 Left-hand engine/transmission mounting bolts/nut (arrowed)

14.22

Rear mounting stabiliser bar bolts (arrowed)

x

2Be22

2.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures

__________.. sss ee ee

ignition, and go out almost immediately when the engine starts. 2 If the light does not come on, there could be a fault on the instrument panel, the switch wiring, or the switch itself. If the light does not

pos

15.15

Pull out the clip (arrowed) and recover the washer

15.19

Disconnect the lower hose (arrowed) from the oil cooler

go out, low oil level, worn oil pump (or sump pick-up blocked), blocked oil filter, or worn main bearings could be to blame — or again, the switch may be faulty. 3 If the light comes on while driving, the best advice is to turn the engine off immediately, and not to drive the vehicle until the problem has been investigated — ignoring the light could mean expensive engine damage.

Removal Models without air conditioning 4 The oil pressure sensor is located on the front of the engine, in the oil filter housing. 5 It may be easier to access the sensor from underneath the vehicle, jack up the front of the vehicle, and support it on axle stands (See Jacking and vehicle support). Undo the retaining bolts and remove the engine undertray. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.

A

15.23a

Remove the oil cooler/filter

15.23b

——

:

...and recover the gasket

housing... 13 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. Alternatively, clamp the oil cooler coolant hoses as close to the cooler as possible, and be prepared for some coolant loss as the hoses are disconnected. 14 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine/transmission undertray. 15 Pull out the 2 clips securing the radiator and condenser (where fitted) to the radiator support crossmember, and recover the washers (see illustration). 16 Release the retaining clips and remove the air deflector panel from each side of the radiator. 17 On models with air conditioning, disconnect the pressure sensor wiring plug. 18 Lift the radiator and condenser (where fitted) assembly upwards from the support crossmember, and secure the assembly to the front crossmember using cable-ties, etc. 19 Release the clip and disconnect the lower

coolant hose from the oil filter/cooler housing (see illustration). 20 Undo the bolt and release the power steering hose from the filter/cooler housing, and move it to one side. 21 Disconnect the oil pressure sensor wiring plug. 22 Release the clip and disconnect the upper coolant hose from the oil filter/cooler housing. 23 Unscrew the four mounting bolts and remove the oil cooler/filter housing from the front of the cylinder block. Discard the gasket, as a new one must be used on refitting (see illustrations).

7 Unscrew the sensor from the housing, and remove it together with its sealing washer (see illustration). There should only be a very slight loss of oil when this is done.

Models with air conditioning

Refitting 24 Fit a new gasket to the oil cooler/filter housing, then offer the housing to the cylinder block. Ensure that the housing is correctly positioned then refit the mounting bolts and finger-tighten initially. 25 Tighten the bolts in diagonal sequence to the Stage 1 torque, then tighten them to the Stage 2 torque using the same sequence. 26 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal.

8 Disconnect the battery negative lead as described in Chapter 5. 9 Remove the radiator grille and front bumper as described in Chapter 11. 10 Undo the bolts and remove the central impact absorber. 11 Release the clip and remove the air defiector panel from the right-hand side of the radiator. 12 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the oil pressure warning switch from the housing.

Inspection

16 Oil pressure sensor -

_ removal and refitting

1 The oil pressure sensor gives a vital early warning of low oil pressure. The sensor operates the oil warning light on the instrument panel — the light should come on with the

13 Examine the sensor for signs of cracking or splits. If the top part of the sensor is loose, this is an early indication of impending failure. 14 Check that the wiring connector terminals are good, then trace the wire from the switch connector until it enters the main loom — any wiring defects will give rise to apparent oil pressure problems.

Refitting 15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Clean the sensor threads before fitting. Tighten the switch to the specified torque. b) Reconnect the sensor wiring, making sure it is routed away from any hot or moving

parts.

me

16.7 The oil pressure sensor (arrowed) is on the front face of the cylinder block

c) Lower the vehicle to the ground, then check the engine oil level and top-up if necessary (see ‘Weekly checks’). d) Check for signs of oil leaks once the engine has been restarted and warmed-up to normal operating temperature.

‘ 2.0 litre engine in-car repair procedures 17 Oil level sensor removal and refitting

2Be23

3 Undo the fasteners and remove the wheel arch liner. 4 The oil level sensor wiring may be fitted with heat-resisting insulating material. Cut the clip and move the material to one side. 5 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the oil level sensor from the cylinder block (see illustration).

Mii Removal | 1 The oil level sensor is located at the rear, right-hand side of the engine, above the right-hand driveshaft intermediate bearing. 2 Access to the sensor may be easiest from under the right-hand front wheel arch. First, jack

up the front of the vehicle, and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front right-hand roadwheel.

Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the sensor,

track rod and link arm to their

specified torques.

17.5

Unscrew the oil level sensor

2Be24

Notes

;

2Ce1

Chapter 2 Part C: Engine removal and overhaul procedures Contents

Section number

Section number

Crankshatkinspectionys..cc ay aue ake See coe ive ot ae Crankshathiooretittinghewes,ticr Jism anhannan Soin Cronies Henik BRAN Crankshaft: removaly. drwy ee teresa. Gani, Sscyserac ale nedtoaere Cylinder block — cleaning and inspection.................00005 Gyiinderhead—idismantlingtr crivalwon actor. tres « aersaygremacn erate Cylindenhead|—ireassemblVis cx Bis hig ein iohae oh vita oie spa ators oes Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection............. Engine — initial start-up after overhaul ...............0 0000 ees Engine and transmission — removal, separation, connection and ROTCUNG eter caatotetnars sys eid eraraat exci Saas one welyearnsea ieee a

13 17 10 11 6 8 it ake) 4

Engine Engine Engine Engine

overhaul overhaul overhaul removal

— dismantling sequence..........-......+.5-— general information.................0eeeeee — reassembly sequence...................0-- methods and precautions ................0:.

GeneralinformationrsacO5 Jo Serene iets cae ciate ere emete eke Main and big-end bearings — inspection and selection........... Piston rings =yrevitting)s a2. cs acter qetscserc sean eal. onne cel acts Piston/connecting rod assemblies — inspection................. Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting................... Piston/connecting rod assemblies — removal................4+.

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

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EN

wy

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

. iN “~

Fairly difficult,

EN Difficult, suitable :

s

suitable for competent AY DIY mechanic

S | Very difficult, ~

for experienced DIY &e mechanic

EN

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications 1.9 litre engines Cylinder head MaximMuniGasket taCeiGiStormtiOms cae tvayessitio. se "oicwes ou. Petes slovemas. eee REVEL TAIOACMOIGN Ucn cescin)ateeriove¥alc. nites, cicevfod-sin: eras)

Very difficult,

dX N

Specifications Wheel alignment and steering angles

.

Front wheel: MOS SOteMG (UNMACOIN) Ate whats tee tations ie oo nc fs:oldio stiepngopteanens istapa Camber (dependant on vehicle load) ........... 0.0.00 c eee eee GASTOrAUMMACeN eens tre ie Me eee tte ss cyrpettaca aan vie re King pin inclination (dependant on vehicle load) ................ Rear wheel: MOS SOLEIIG Meters see nis aitin orevau et noetets botnets o Gln bane Queur bum ees ws Cambehinsis cnskstrceeitene o.2 Sh SnD wnt dk wat eee ee

-0° 10’ + 10’

-0° 20’ + 30’ (nominal) 3° 10’ + 30’ (nominal)

11/233"

20°

0° 30’ + 20’ -0° 45’ + 20’

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Roadwheels fivie DieSSUnOSit

iret

ai, ord aie ciaiek obetayaiy te sie eresectace tooitemnn yatta cntcop

Torque wrench settings

See end of Weekly checks on page 0°17 Nm

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44

32

21

15

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Engine management control unit (not shown)

See diagram 6 ABS

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Ase | _ keEngine management control unit (not shown)

:

Wiring diagrams

12°19

NES

Wire colours Bk Black -Ye Yellow Bu Blue Bn Brown Gn Green Gy Grey _ Pu Purple Bg Beige Rd Red

Pk Vt Og Wh Lgn Lbu Dgn DBu

a

Key to items Pink Violet Orange White Light Green Light Blue Dark Green Dark Blue

Battery Engine fusebox Passenger fusebox Ignition switch Steering column switch unit a = side/headlight b = headlight flasher c = dip main beam d_ = foglight switch e@ = direction indicator 21 LH tailgate light unit Cc

a

= direction indicator

ae

22 LH rear light unit b= foglight 23 RH tailgate light unit © c¢ = direction indicator 24 RH rear light unit b= foglight 30 LH headlight unit a = main beam b = dip beam 31 RH headlight unit = main beam a = dip beam

b

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

LH front foglight RH front foglight Front foglight relay Body control unit Hazard warning switch LH front direction indicator

44 45 46 47

Heater blower switch Heater blower resistor Recirculation motor Heater blower motor

RH front direction indicator LH indicator side repeater RH indicator side repeater Headlight levelling switch LH headlight levelling motor 43 RH headlight levelling motor

H47319

=

Rd

vy

:

Diagram 3

1 4 5 6 10

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a