Haynes Mini 2001 to 2005 Owners Workshop Manual 1844252736, 9781844252732

Citation preview

and not forgetting... We don’t just publish car manuals, you know! In addition to the hundred million worldwide, Haynes also produce a wide range of practical books and manuals computing, caravanning, cycling and driving tuition — and there’s our innovative as well. No matter what the subject, our essential no-nonsense, easy-to-follow

BRAKES :

ad|

ae |

pent ae

Car Restorer's

plus car manuals we have sold on subjects such as home DIY, and highly successful Family Series approach remains the same.

Projects

Ac

eeea

Shari dain

oer S|

Bikebo

We also publish and distribute hundreds of books and DVDs covering general motoring and transport subjects, including all aspects of motorsport, classic cars, sports cars, motorcycling, military vehicles, aviation, model cars, cycling, golf, history and much, much more.

ANDROVER EXPEDITIONS

WHERE TO GO OFFROADING I THE UK

om

:

Z

a0

a

a

ae

ae a

_ :

Neti 5a

|e) gaale| fe)1

Check out our website at www.haynes.co.uk to find your nearest stockist or to view or download our online catalogue. All Haynes publications are available variously through car accessory shops, book stores and mail order outlets.

Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Telephone (01963) 442030 ¢ E-mail [email protected] ¢ Website France

01 47 17 66 29 © Sweden

018 124016 * USA

805 498-6703 © Australia

www.haynes.co.uk

613 9763-8100

Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. lllegal copying will also_be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

VEL

SHES

Owners Workshop Manual for the MINI Martynn Randall Models covered

(4273 - 224)

One, Cooper and Cooper S Hatchback, including option packs

1.6 litre (1598cc) petrol, inc. supercharged Does NOT cover models with CVT automatic transmission or Diesel macdels Does NOT cover features specific to Convertible or John Cooper ‘Works’ conversions

© Haynes Publishing 2005 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

ABCDE FGHIJ

roe

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,

including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

_ Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England |Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes

ISBN 1 84425 273 6

4, Rue de l’Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

|

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

MINI

Safety First!

Page

0e*5

Introduction

Page

0*6

Roadside Repairs Introduction

Page

0e7

If your car won't start

Page

07

Jump starting

Page

028

Identifying leaks

Page

0Oe9

Towing

Page

0*9

Wheel changing

Page

0e10

Page

0¢12

Page

0012

Weekly Checks Introduction

'

Underbonnet check points

Engine oil level Coolant level

WORCESTERSHIRE

COUNTY

COUNCIL

+ He ee

Brake and clutch fluid leve| Power steering fluid level \

Screen washer fluid level

een

eels oa

j

Wiper blades

(ee

Bertrams

Tyre condition and pressure 4 t Battery

iow

Electrical systems

z

629 .288MIN

Saibenes

£17.99

Page 0°13 Page

0913

Page

0014

Page

0°14

Page

0015

Page

0¢15

Page

0°16

Page

0017

Page

0e17

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0°18

Tyre pressures

Page 0¢18

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing

Page

1e1

Servicing specifications

Page

1¢2

Maintenance schedule

Page

193

Maintenance procedures

Page

1°%6

Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

General engine overhaul procedures

Page

2Be1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems

Page

4Ae1

Emission control systems

Page

4Be1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition systems

Page

5Be1

Clutch

Page

6¢1

Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Transmission

Brakes and Suspension Braking system

Page

Qe

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical systems

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12023

Body equipment

REFERENCE Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REFe3

General repair procedures

Page

REFe4

Page

REFe5

Page

REFe6

Page

REFe8

Jacking and vehicle support

Tools and working facilities

MOT Test Checks

;

Fault Finding

Page REFe12

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe19

Index

Page REFe23

.

oe Advanced Driving

Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.

Learning to drive by ‘experience’ three driving skills:

Many

people

see

the

words

‘advanced

driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel.

Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) 7 Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). 7 Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments.

An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due

Advanced drivers risks by controlling their vehicle. They misses, even if the mistakes.

to human Sometimes

The

error, mostly driver failure. we make genuine mistakes -

everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

teaches

key

skills

have learnt to control the the position and speed of avoid accidents and near drivers around them make

of advanced

driving

are

concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link.

If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk,

phone

0208 996 9600, or

write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety First! os Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning e Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing ¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the

ramps.

of

(Xs

te

ee

(geal

Never

ai

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. ¢ Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

= Nie E

jack with axle

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

FA itatese

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a

venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. ¢ Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

¢ Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. e Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

@ Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Electric shock e Ignition HT

voltage canbe dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a

Remember... _

Be ™

ig

Wg “a af 7

Ke pacemaker. Don’t oe work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

. oe hasasafe ove load rating . oe

forthe job.

-

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid ® This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. ¢ When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or

allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment ¢ Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

oeg INtroduction All models have fully-independent front and rear suspension, with anti-roll bars fitted both to the front and rear assemblies. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the MINI range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electric windows, air conditioning, an electric sunroof, an anti-lock braking system,a traction control system, a dynamic stability control system, and numerous

airbags. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the MINI should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Your MINI manual

The new MINI was introduced in July 2001 and was originally available with a 1.6 litre (1598 cc) 16 valve SOHC petrol engine. In July 2002 the Cooper S models was introduced, fitted with a supercharged version of the same 1.6 litre engine. In June 2003 a diesel model was added to the range; this 1.4 litre unit (not

covered by this manual) was sourced from Toyota, and essentially is the same unit as fitted to the popular Yaris model. In the Spring of 2004, the convertible MINI was launched (not covered by this manual). Over the years, the range was has been improved with minor cosmetic/mechanical

revisions,

but

the

same ‘wheel on each corner’ driving fun has remained. The engines are unique to the MINI, being of Brazilian origin, jointly designed by BMW and Chrysler. The SOHC design incorporates rockers arm fitted with integral hydraulic compensator units, acting upon 4 valves per cylinder. Although the MINI is available with both manual and automatic (CVT) transmissions, only manual versions are covered in this manual. The engine is fitted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission located on the left-hand end of the engine.

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step

sequence. References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat facing forward.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations

and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any

errors

in, or omissions

information given.

from,

the

Roadside repairs 0-7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

lf your car won’t] start and the starter motor doesn’t] turn

If your car won’t] start even though the starter motor turns as normal

On MINI One/Cooper models, lift the bonnet, pull up the rubber weatherstrip, release the clips and remove the battery cover. Make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. On Cooper S models, open the tailgate, lift the luggage compartment floor, and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. (_] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

|] [|

Site

@

Is there fuel in the tank? Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

as

Check the security of the ignition coil harness connector.

Check the th rottle body wiring connector with the ignition switched off.

Check the security and condition of the battery terminals (located in the luggage compartment on Cooper S models).

Check the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing the caps onto the spark plugs.

sia

i

=

- Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Check the HT leads are securely connected to the ignition coil.

os Roadside repairs Jump starting

HAYNES

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: Y

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Y

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go

flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: :

The battery has been drained by

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

v

HINT

Jump starting will get you out

If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two

vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

v

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

“4

On Cooper S models, unclip the plastic cover from the jump-start terminal (+) adjacent to the air filter housing, and connect the red jump lead to the terminal.

On MINI One/Cooper models, pull up the rubber weatherstrip, release the clips and remove battery cover from the lefthand side of the engine compartment, then connect the red jump lead to the terminal.

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the cooling fan drivebelts or other moving parts on the engine.

ENS

[Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery.

ks

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to the transmission mounting bracket (Cooper S models) or the battery negative terminal (MINI One/Cooper models).

Start the engine, then with the engine running at fast idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, ie, negative (black) lead first. Securely refit the plastic cover to the jump start positive terminal where applicable.

Roadside repairs o-9 identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs

investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide

where

the

leak

is coming

from,

especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil ‘

HAYNES

Gearbox oil

-?

YHhierHNW

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

..or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

LJOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. The towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit which is fitted under the luggage compartment lid or floor. To fit the eye, prise out the access cover from the front/rear bumper (as applicable). Screw the eye into position and tighten it securely. [| Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. L] Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running.

[JOn models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. [ ]Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. | ]Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: [JUse a proper tow-rope —- they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. | ]Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights work.

oe1io Roadside repairs Wheel changing Caution: Your MINI maybe equipped with special Run Flat tyres, the MINI Mobility System, or a Compact spare wheel.

Warning: Do not change a wheel or repair a puncture in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation [_]

Use hazard warning If you have one, use alert other drivers of Apply the handbrake

When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic.

lights if necessary. a warning triangle to your presence. and engage first or

|]

reverse gear. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed — a chock is located beneath the jack under the luggage compartment lid. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack.

Vehicles with the Compact spare wheel Changing the wheel Pulling by hand or using a screwdriver, remove the wheel trim/hub cap (as applicable) then, using the wheelbrace from the toolkit, slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn.

1

Make sure the jack is located on firm ground then turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten the bolts with the wheelbrace then lower the vehicle to the ground.

The spare wheel (where fitted) is stored under the floor of the luggage compartment. The tools are stored in the

luggage compartment floor.

If an anti-theft wheel bolt is fitted, pull the

Lift the luggage compartment floor and remove the jack, wheel chock and special

plastic cover from the bolt...

spanner.

1

9 . . . then slacken it using the adapter supplied in the tool kit.

Finally ...

Place the chock behind or in front (as

Remove the wheel chock. Stow the jack, chock and tools correct locations in the car. Check the tyre pressure on the fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t pressure gauge with you, drive the next garage and inflate the

applicable) of the wheel diagonally opposite to the one to be removed.

Lift out the toolkit and, using the special spanner, undo the screw and remove the cover over the wheel carrier catch. Screw the lifting onto the carrier handle slightly, retaining clips, carrier. Unscrew

handle from the toolkit catch thread, lift the squeeze together the and lower the wheel

the valve extension

spare wheel, remove the dust cap from the extension and fit it to the valve on the wheel.

in the wheel just have a slowly to

tyre to the

correct pressure. 1

from the

Securely tighten the wheel bolts in the sequence shown then refit the wheel trim/hub cap (as applicable). Stow the punctured wheel and tools back in the luggage compartment and secure them in position. Note that the wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity.

Locate the jack head under the jacking point nearest to the wheel that is to

be removed. As the jack is raised, the head must enter the rectangular recess in the jacking point.

|_|] Observe any speed restrictions marked on the sidewall of the compact spare tyre,

and be aware that cornering and braking performance may be affected. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible, or another puncture will leave you stranded.

Roadside repairs 0-11 Vehicles with MINI Mobility System The MINI Mobility System consists of a bottle of puncture sealant and a compressor. Rather than change the punctured wheel, the system allows the tyre to be sealed, enabling the journey to be resumed, albeit at a reduced speed.

Pull the stopper from the filler hose, attach the hose to the valve and, holding the bottle upside down, squeeze the entire contents into the tyre.

Se wy The system is stored beneath the floor of the luggage compartment. Remove

the

sealant

luggage compartment,

bottle

from

the

and shake the

Connect the compressor hose to the tyre valve and, with the ignition switch turned to position |, turn the compressor on and inflate the tyre to a pressure of between 1.8 and 2.5 bar (26 to 36 psi). If this pressure

is not achieved within 6 minutes, turn off the compressor, disconnect it from the valve, and drive the vehicle forwards about 10 m, Remove the filler hose, and screw the — then reverse back to place to redistribute the core back into the valve. sealant, and repeat the inflation process. With the correct pressure achieved, disconnect the Se ; compressor and stow it in the tool kit.

contents well. Screw the filler hose onto

Immediately

the bottle.

approximately 10 minutes at a speed of between 12 and 37 mph to redistribute

drive

the

vehicle

for

the sealant.

1

Stop the vehicle, connect the compressor, and check the tyre pressure. If the pressure is less than 1.3 bar (19 psi), it’s not safe to continue your journey, and the vehicle must be recovered by a garage or breakdown service. If the pressure is above this, turn on the compressor

and

inflate the tyre to the normal pressure for the vehicle, as specified on the sticker in the driver’s door aperture. Unscrew the valve cap from the punctured wheel, and using the valve removal tool (stored with the filler hose) unscrew the core from the valve.

Retrieve the compressor from the toolkit, and insert the power plug into the vehicle’s cigarette lighter/power outlet socket.

1

With the tyre inflated to the correct pressure, do not exceed the maximum speed of 50 mph. Have the tyre repaired or renewed at the earliest opportunity.

Vehicles with Run Flat tyres These tyres can be identified by the letters RSC moulded into the tyre sidewall.

If the vehicle is lightly loaded (1 to 2 persons without luggage), maximum range with the tyre deflated is 150 miles.

When used in conjunction with the special wheel rims, these tyres are able to support the vehicle even when they are completely deflated. In the event of a puncture, the vehicles road behaviour will change (braking distance increased, directional stability reduced) but the journey can continue, albeit at a reduced pace of 50 mph.

If the vehicle has a medium load (2 persons with full luggage, or 4 persons without luggage), maximum range is 90 miles.

If the vehicle is fully loaded (4 persons plus luggage), maximum range is 30 miles. 6 It’s not possible to repair Run Flat tyres.

o12 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but

which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

L]Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. (_]Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

[]If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind ~ of problem. LJ If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

}

Anti-lock

41

brakes

O57.

B22