Haynes Reliant Robin & Kitten Owners Workshop Manual 0856964360, 9780856964367

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Reliant Robin & Kitten Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes ‘Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers’

and Bruce Gilmour Models covered All models of Reliant Robin Saloon and Van, Robin 850 Saloon and Van and Kitten Saloon, Estate and Van; 748 cc and 848 cc Also covers GBS and Jubilee models

ISBN O 85696 436 0

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1979

All rights any form recording in writing

ren

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission from the copright holder.

Printed in England

®

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Reliant Motor Company Limited for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided lubrication data, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions.

Fibreglass

Limited

(Reinforcements

Division)

provided

the

photographs used in the bodywork repair section. Lastly, thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, particularly Martin Penny who carried out the mechanical work, Les Brazier who took the photographs, Lee Saunders who planned the layout of each page and Hugh Mayes the editor.

About this manual /ts aims The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into

Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms

of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetcial index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or

omissions from, the information given.

Introduction to the Reliant Robin and Kitten The three-wheeled

Robin was

introduced

in 1973

as a replace-

ment for the Regal range. It was fitted with a new all aluminium 748 cc engine and had a completely redesigned body. The range consisted of the Robin and Super Robin, available with a saloon or van body. In 1975 the Robin model was replaced by the Robin 850, for

which the 748 cc engine was enlarged to 848 cc, but otherwise there were only a few minor differences. 1975 also saw the introduction of the four-wheeled Kitten, based on the Robin models but having a new Reliant-designed front independent suspension.

We've grown to think of the Reliant solely as a three-wheeler and as a stop-gap for the motorcyclist who wants the roominess and comfort of a car without the expense of the increased road tax which one usually associates with a four-wheeler. The Kitten, on the other hand, may appear on the surface to be a Robin with an extra front wheel, but Reliant feel that fuel economy is the principal attribute of this model, along with a body which won't rust. The Kitten is available in saloon, van and

standard and de-luxe versions.

estate

car form,

in

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Reliant Robin/Kitten models

2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

6

Tools and working facilities

7

Jacking

9

Lubrication chart

10

Routine maintenance

12

Chapter 1

Engine

16

Chapter 2

Cooling system

43

Chapter 3

Fuel and exhaust systems

49

Chapter 4

Ignition system

61

Chapter5

Clutch

Chapter6

Gearbox

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

Chapter 8

Rear axle and suspension

91

Chapter9

Braking system

99

Chapter 10

Electrical ae

Chapter

11 Front suspension and steering

Chapter 12 Index

Bodywork and fittings

;

71 77 ;

88

109 136

153 176

uoojes ue!y 3UBEY

uoo|es Sg5 UIgoY 3ueNey

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Reliant

garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Reliant garages: This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-Reliant components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification.

Remember

that many

parts are available

on a factory

exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oil and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories,

usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/

pipes/hoses/seals/shoes etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential for correct identification of the component required. The vehicle identification plate is on the left-hand side of the engine compartment and has the chassis and engine number stamped on it. The engine number is stamped on the right-hand side of the cylinder block.

The

engine

number

is stamped

engine block at the rear

on

the right-hand

side of the

Tools and working facilities Introduction

nt for anyone A selection of good tools is a fundamental requireme vehicle. For the contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor prove a considerowner who does not possess any, their purchase will made by doing-itable expense, offsetting some of the savings d are of good yourself. However, provided that the tools purchase an extremely quality, they will last for many years and prove worthwhile investment. are needed to To help the average owner to decide which tools we have compiled carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, Maintenance and three lists of tools under the following headings: The newcomer to minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. nce and minor practical mechanics should start off with the Maintena jobs around the repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler grow, he can vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience as, and when, they undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools repair tool kit can be are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor considerable period built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a experienced do-itof time without any major cash outlays. The most repair and overyourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for category when he haul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ to which these tools feels the expense is justified by the amount of use

will be put.

tools fully here. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of their use there is a For those who wish to learn more about tools and available from the book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

as a minimum The tools given in this list should be considered repair operarequirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor of combinations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase although more tion spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); es of both expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantag types of spanner.

Combination spanners - %, 3. &, 3

te INAF

Adjustable spanner - 9 inch ) Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 4 in long x + in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

ing any major These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertak

to those given in the repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional repair list. Included in this list is a comprehen-

Maintenance and minor e they will be found sive set of sockets. Although these are expensiv rly if various drives are invaluable as they are so versatile - particula in square-drive type, as this included in the set. We recommend the 4

. If you cannot can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches ive tubular afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpens box spanners are a useful alternative. supplemented by The tools in this list will occasionally need to be tools from the Special list.

list Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver

-

6 in long x & in dia (flat blade) 2 in long x & in square (flat blade) 14 in long x x in dia (cross blade) 3 in long x + in dia (electricians)

Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - } inch

a broken hacksaw Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of

blade)

ng one end of Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpeni a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools

used regularly, are The tools in this list are those which are not in accordance with their expensive to buy, or which need to be used mechanical jobs manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult c to buy many of are undertaken frequently, it will not be economi consider clubbing these tools. Where this is the case, you could a joint purchase, or together with friends (or a motorists’ club) to make garage or tool hire borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local specialist. and instruments freely The following list contains only those tools tools produced by the available to the public, and not those special network. You will find dealer its for lly specifica turer manufac vehICle special tools in the text occasional references to these manufacturers’ of doing the job of this manual. Generally, an alternative method tool is given. However, without the vehicle manufacturer's special them. Where this is the sometimes, there is no alternative to using or borrowed you will have case and the relevant tool cannot be bought to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller

Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge

Tools and working facilities

8 a

Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge

Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge

Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the

0-512

13 mm AF

0-525 0-551 0-562 0-590

+ in Whitworth;3 in BSF 14 mm AF & in AF 15 mm AF

0-600 0-625 0-629

% in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 3 in AF 16 mm AF

0-669

17 mm AF

0-687 0-708 0-710

3 in AF 18 mm AF 3 in Whitworth; % in BSF

0-748

19 mm AF

0-750 0-812 0-820 0-866 0.875 0-920

Zin AF #3 in AF % in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 22 mm AF $ in AF + in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

0.944 1-000 1-010

24 mm AF 1 in AF & in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

1.023

26 mm AF

1-100 1-125

$ in Whitworth; % in BSF 13 in AF

1-181

30 mm AF

1-200

# in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

1:259

32 mm AF

1-300

$ in Whitworth; J in BSF

1-390

#3 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

1-417

36 mm AF

Working facilities

1-480 1-500 1-574

$ in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 14 in AF 40 mm AF; 3 in Whitworth

1-614

41 mm AF

1-670

1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1-811

46 mm AF

1-812 1-860

18 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

proprietor

or

manager

of the

shop

for advice

before

making

~

a

0-937

purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when

become

tools are used.

Hammer

heads

1.062

1-250

inevitably

1-312

marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades

fom time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will

1-437

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 3 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

1-625

1-687

8 in AF

14,inAF;27mm AF

14 in AF 13 in AF

17, in AF

12 in AF

111 in AF

1-875

1Zin AF

1-968

50 mm AF

2-000 2-050 2-165

2 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF 55 mm AF

2-362

60 mm AF

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0-250 0-275 0-312

¥ in AF 7 mm AF % in AF

0-315

8 mm AF

0-340

® in AF;4 in Whitworth

0-354 0-375

9 mm AF 3 in AF

0-393

10 mm AF

0-433 0-437

11 mm AF % in AF

0-445

% in Whitworth;} in BSF

0-472

12 mm AF

0-500

+ in AF

A Haltrac sequence

hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine

removal

Jacking To vehicle. up the jacking

change a wheel in an emergency, use the jack supplied with the Ensure that the roadwheel nuts are slackened before jacking-

ground.

car. Make sure that the jack is under one of the recommended points and that the base of the jack is standing on firm level

always supplement supports.

Front jacking point— Kitten

When

raising

the

vehicle

the

jack

for maintenance

with

Front jacking point — Robin

Rear jacking point

} } Ce

axle-stands

or repair

or

operations,

other

suitable

ls Us ®) aNeye \ »)

V,= —

J} =G ee wf 2

Sos; : D

Y

\

-

\

L 4

aia

4

B

Recommended

lubricants and fluids

Component

TOM)

Castrol product

MMM

BeARIGUAMP GEM ECER (EH)

EME Gist call cals (se!sce cis + oath esis wis aes sissies abe Castrol GTX ie

raiedcerts sialsiorsi che bs

eca.s0 e060 0.4'w @0.8 whee

cho ghetto cho ialn ro eee La

Steering box (4): HGDIBEPIE PIT teres oe ccc Kittenilovernadlionly) ocis sss

Castrol Hypoy (90EP) Castrol Hypoy Light (80EP)

er hese eae aw Paes Castrol Hypoy Light (80EP) te eee ee Castrol Hypoy (90EP)

SU RSEN DOCALMING SD) etre cists: yeti) = fallense) 6)«0.si6 evspaite: sete oe alae, oyaie Castrol LM grease Suspension grease points (6)...

2... . ccc eee

ee

eee

Castrol MS3 grease

PROPUONSHAT (A) aEtoteae cubase stchale

6.3 Lifting out the radiator

of the cooling system through the radiator drain plug, retaining the coolant if it contains antifreeze. 3 Disconnect the top radiator hose from the radiator and unscrew the three thermostat housing bolts. 4 Lift off the thermostat cover to reveal the thermostat. 5 The thermostat is often stuck to the rim of the housing with sediment. To loosen it without damage tap it with a flat nosed punch right on the edge as if trying to rotate it in the housing. Be careful as the lip acts as a form of seal and although not critical it should not be damaged. 6 The loose thermostat may then be lifted out. 7 To test whether the thermostat functions as it should, suspend it in a pan of water with a piece of string. Then, with a thermometer in the water (it should be 86°—89°C (187°—193°F). Then note when it is fully open which should be at 103°C (218°F). Check that the thermostat closes once again at the lower temperature (after cooling naturally). Should it fail on any of these checks it must be renewed. Note that the operation of the thermostat is not instantaneous so

allow sufficient time when testing. Should the thermostat have stuck open it would have been apparent when the housing cover was removed. 8 Refitting the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure

46

]

Fig. 2.4 Water pump and fan — Robin (Sec 8) Gasket Drivebelt Fan

Fan securing bolts Plain washer

Spring washer Spring washer Nut Water hose connection Hose, heater-to-pump Hose, adaptor-to-pump ~>ODNDAAAWNH™

(850 engine) By-pass hose (750 engine) Clip AWN Clip om ~~

Fig. 2.5 Adjusting the fan belt tension (Sec 10) 1 Adjustment locking screw 2 Mounting pivot bolt

Chapter 2 Cooling system Ensure that the mating faces of the two flanges are clean and use a new gasket. It is sensible insurance to use a sealing compound also

47

renewed.

have undue strain placed on them and result in premature failure of the alternator. 4 After obtaining the correct tension ensure that the alternator mounting bolts are securely tightened.

8

11

Antifreeze mixture

1

In circumstances

- such as Hermetite.

If the elbow is very deeply corroded

it should be

Water pump - removal and refitting

1 The water pump is not repairable and is supplied as a complete assembly only. If coolant is leaking from the pump and a new gasket does not stop the leak, this indicates that the impeller spindle seal is faulty and the pump must be renewed. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Sections 3 and 7. 3 Slacken the alternator mounting bolts and slotted adjustment strap, then push the alternator towards the cylinder block to release the fan belt tension and remove the fan belt. 4 Slacken the clips securing the heater hose and by-pass hose to the thermostat housing and disconnect the hoses. 5 Remove the fan retaining bolts, 3 on the Robin and 4 on the Kitten, and lift away the fan. 6 Unscrew the four nuts securing the water pump to the front of the cylinder block and lift out the pump. Remove the gasket. 7 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the mating faces of the water pump and cylinder block are clean and always fit a new gasket. Adjust the fan belt tension as described in

Amount of antifreeze

Protection to

50% 40% 30% 25% 20% 15% 10%

-37°C (-34°F) -25°C (-13°F) -16°C (+3°F) =13°€ (+9°F) -9°C (+15°F) -7°C (+20°F) -4°C (+25°F)

Fan belt — removal and refitting

1 If the fan belt is worn or has stretched unduly it should be renewed. The most useful reason for replacement is that the belt has broken in service. It is therefore recommended that a spare belt is always carried. Refitting is a reversal of the removal sequence, but as

replacement due described below. 2

to breakage

is the

most

usual

operation,

will drop

12

Temperature gauge and sender unit — fault diagnosis

it is

To remove the belt loosen the-alternator securing bolts and push

the unit in towards the engine. 3 Slip the old belt over the crankshaft, alternator and water pump pulley wheels and lift it off over the fan blades. 4 Put on a new belt in the same way and adjust it as described in Section 10. Note: After fitting a new belt it will receive adjustment due to its initial stretch after about 250 miles (400 km).

10

it is likely that the temperature

temperature given:

Section 10.

9

where

to below freezing it is essential that some of the water is drained and an adequate amount of ethylene glycol antifreeze such as Castrol Antifreeze is added to the cooling system. 2 Any antifreeze which conforms with specification BS3151 or BS3152 can be used. Never use an antifreeze with an alcohol base as it evaporates rapidly. 3 Antifreeze can be left in the cooling system for up to one year but after three months have the specific gravity of the coolant checked at your local garage and thereafter once every three months. 4 Below are the amounts of antifreeze, as a percentage of the total coolant, which are necessary to give adequate protection down to the

Fan belt tension — adjustment

1. The fan belt tension is correct when there is 0.5 in (13 mm) of lateral movement at the midpoint position of the belt between the alternator pulley wheel and the water pump pulley wheel. 2 To adjust the fan belt, slacken the securing bolts and move the alternator either in or out until the correct tension is obtained. It is easier if the alternator securing bolts are only slackened slightly so it requires some force to move the unit. In this way the tension of the belt can be arrived at more quickly than by making frequent adjustments. 3 It is important to keep the fan belt correctly tensioned. If the belt is too loose it will slip, wear rapidly and cause the alternator and water pump to malfunction. If the belt is too tight the alternator bearings will

1 If the temperature gauge fails to work either the gauge, the sender unit, the wiring or the connections are at fault. 2 It is not possible to repair the gauge or the sender unit and they must be replaced by new units if faulty.

3. First check the wiring connections and if sound check the wiring for breaks using an ohmmeter. 4 Switch on the ignition and disconnect the lead from the sender unit at the thermostat housing. Check that the temperature gauge registers cold, then earth the sender unit lead and check the reading on the gauge, if it is at the hot mark then the temperature gauge is functioning correctly and the sender unit must be renewed. If the fault is with the temperature gauge then it must be renewed (see Chapter 10) as it is not repairable.

13

Temperature sender unit — removal and refitting

1 Remove the radiator drain plug and partially drain the cooling system. 2 Disconnect the electrical lead from the sender unit. 3 Unscrew the sender unit and remove it from the thermostat housing. 4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Always fit a new fibre washer.

Fault diagnosis overleaf

Chapter 2 Cooling system 48 ener ee ie SS Se 14

t~S

Fault diagnosis — cooling system

Symptom

. Reason/s

ee ie S ik Loss of coolant

Overheating

Engine running too cool

Leak in system Defective radiator pressure cap Overheating causing rapid evaporation due to excessive pressure in system forcing vapour past radiator cap Blown cylinder head gasket, causing excess pressure in the cooling system forcing coolant past radiator cap Cracked block or head

Insufficient coolant in system Water pump not turning properly due to slack fan belt Kinked or collapsed water hoses causing restriction to circulation of coolant Faulty thermostat (not opening properly) Engine out of tune Blocked radiator either internally or externally Cylinder head gasket blown, forcing coolant out of system New engine not run-in Binding brakes causing excessive power load on engine Blocked or restricted exhaust system Missing, faulty or wrong type of thermostat

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems Contents Air cleaner — removal, servicing and refitting ............... 7 ETUVRE CO)? (6 (STATE USMis 2a eee Carburettor —removal and refitting ................0005. Exhaust system — description, removal and refitting .......... Fault diagnosis — fuel system and carburation BIGEMOUIIMECESCHDTION, ccs ee ee ee Fuel pump — dismantling, servicing andreassembly .......... Fuel pump — removal and refitting Fuel pump — testing

Fuel tank level transmitter — removal testing and OUTS) Cogoo 8 hoo Suna OCG Olin Fuel tank — removal and refitting

3 11 12 21 5 8 v 6 10 9

Generalidescriptiona par. aarcirt ce meme aarotneds Meee cn > cee een In-line ‘fuelifilter—renewall (ios. ne ee oa es tees ee Rouitine; maintenance epee. «ir-rs Gis aeeks Geis « orci ss) e sve one

SU carburettor — dismantling and reassembly .............. SU carburettor— fast idle (choke) adjustment .............. SU carburettor — slow-running adjustment ................ Throttle cable — removal andrefitting ................0005 Throttle pedal — removal and refitting .................005 Zenith carburettor — dismantling and reassembly ............ Zenith carburettor — fast idle (choke) adjustment ............ Zenith carburettor — slow-running adjustment ..............

1 4 2 16 18 17 20 19 13

15 14

Specifications

aL) IMVIGTTERD:

OP SET

5,og oI SS

yo eualaie fo pdt OC

Ren een

AC Delco, mechanical

6 gallons (27.3 litres) Dry paper element type

Carburettor

750 cc engines Zenith 301Z or 30IZE

OT TGR 5 5 Aika oir Sb a gn er Oo RETRSEV IYOVTELS oS RSSRE, Slow-running jet Slow-running air bleed Accelerator pump jet

Accelerator pump back bleed Economy jet

Needle valve

850 cc engines MMMM

eee ase

es. a wah) ee ets opareraer® @ici'e ielselatia «Sle sbarver 6

Needle size

1

General description

The fuel system comprises a fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle, a mechanical fuel pump and the carburettor. The fuel pump draws petrol from the fuel tank and delivers it to the carburettor. The fuel is filtered by a gauge filter located on the pick-up pipe in the tank. On Robin 850 models and all Kitten models an in-line

filter is also fitted in the fuel line near the tank. The fuel level sender unit in the tank actuates the fuel gauge. The level of the petrol in the carburettor float chamber is controlled by a float operated needle valve. Petrol flows past the needle

301Z 105 160 50 80 40 35 50 1.6

301ZE 97.5 160 50 2 40 2 40 1.6

SU HS 2 11 in AAC

valve until the float rises sufficiently to close the valve. The pump then freewheels under slight back pressure until the petrol level drops. The needle valve will then open and petrol will again flow until the level rises again. Robin models with 750 cc engines are fitted with a Zenith downdraught carburettor type 30IZ or 301ZE, the latter being an emission controlled type conforming to the Department of the Environment Vehicle Emission Regulations. Robin 850 and Kitten models are equipped with an SU semi-downdraught HS2 type carburettor. A renewable dry paper element air cleaner filters the air drawn into the carburettor.

50

Fig. 3.1 Topping-up the dashpot — SU carburetter (Sec 2)

So)

Fig. 3.2 Exploded view of air cleaner — 850 cc engine (Sec 3) 1 Aircleanerassembly 2 Element

3 Bolt 4 Spring washer

5 Plain washer 6 Gasket

Fig. 3.3 Exploded view of air cleaner — 750 cc engine (Sec 3) 1 Air cleaner assembly

4

2 Element

5 Clip

3 Sleeve

Vent hose

Fig. 3.4 Location of in-line fuel filter (1) (Sec 4)

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

2

5

—_

Routine maintenance

1 The air cleaner element should be checked every 6000 miles (10000 km) and renewed every 12 000 miles (20000 km) (See Section 3). is) Robin 850 and Kitten models — top up the carburettor dash pot with engine oil every 3000 miles (5000 km) (See Section 16). w Robin 850 and Kitten models — Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) renew the in-line fuel filter (See Section 4).

3

Air cleaner — removal, servicing and refitting

750 cc engines 1 2

Remove the oil filler cap from the rocker cover. Undo the centre securing screw and lift the air cleaner assembly,

oil filler cap and vent hose off the carburettor. Separate the cover from the base and remove the paper element. WwW Examine the filter element; if it is dirty it must be renewed. Never clean the element. 5 Clean the filler cap in paraffin. Check the vent hose for deterioration and renew if necessary. 6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

block at the front

850 cc engines ~N Release the clip securing the air cleaner cover to the base plate, lift off the cover and remove the filter element. 8 Remove the two bolts securing the base plate to the carburettor and lift away the base plate. 9 Clean the cover and base plate. Examine the filter element and renew if necessary. Never clean the paper element.

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Smear a little grease on the plastic ends of the filter element to improve the sealing.

b

In-line fuel filter — renewal

—* The in-line fuel filter is located on the right-hand chassis member in front of the fuel tank. DS) Release the two securing clips and pull the fuel pipe from the filter. 3 When fitting the new filter push the pipes into the transparent filter tube and secure with the clips. Ensure that it is fitted correctly in relation to the fuel flow which is indicated by the arrow in Fig. 3.4.

5

Fuel pump - description

The fuel pump is operated by an eccentric on the camshaft acting on a rocker arm. This actuates a flexible diaphragm which draws the fuel from the tank and pumps it under pressure to the carburettor float chamber. Inlet and outlet valves are incorporated to control the flow of fuel.

to7)

Fuel pump — testing

Presuming that the fuel lines and unions are in good condition and that there are no leaks anywhere, check the performance of the fuel pump in the following manner: Disconnect the fuel pipe at the carburettor inlet union, and the high tension lead to the coil, and with a suitable container or a large rag in position to catch the ejected fuel, turn the engine over on the starter motor. A good spurt of petrol should emerge from the end of the pipe every second revolution.

Fig. 3.5 Exploded view of fuel pump (Sec 8) 7

7 2 3 4

Fuel pump assembly Inlet and outlet valves Valve gasket Diaphragm

5 Gasket 6 Washer 7 Nut

Fuel pump — removal and refitting

1. Disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes at the pump and plug the ends to prevent the loss of petrol and to stop dirt finding its way into the fuel system (photo). 2 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the pump to the cylinder block. Lift away the fuel pump and remove the gasket. Ww 4 Refitting the pump is the reverse of the removal procedure.

52

Fig. 3.6 Fuel tank and fuel pipes — Robin early models (Sec 9 and 10) Fuel tank Insulation, tank Fuel level sender

Sealing ring Locking ring Drain plug DAaARwWH™

Fuel tank Fuel level sender Sealing ring Locking ring Drain plug Washer, drain plug Washer Nut

Set screw AAWNH™> OANA

Washer, drain plug Washer Nut Filler tube Hose, filler tube Clip

Washer Nut Filler tube Hose, filler tube Clip Hose, breather Clip Grommet Pipe assembly, pump-to-filter

Grommet Pipe assembly, tank-to-pump Olive Nut Pipe assembly, pump-tocarburettor

Olive Nut Pipe assembly, pump-to-hose Olive Nut Connecting hose, pipe-tocarburettor Clip P-clip

18 Sleeve connector iff) Clip 20 Clip 21 22

Filler cap, painted Filler cap, locking

In-line petrol filter Pipe Connector sleeve Clip Clip Clip Cap, filler tube Cap, filler tube chrome

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems a 8

Fuel pump - dismantling, servicing and reassembly

1 Before dismantling the fuel pump obtain a pump repair kit. 2 Clean the exterior of the pump, then scribe a line across the edges of the upper and lower body mating flanges to ensure correct reassembly. 3 Unscrew and remove the five screws and spring washers which secure the upper and lower bodies together. Lift away the upper body (Fig. 3.5). 4 Remove the diaphragm assembly. To do this, first turn the assembly through 90° in order to free the pull rod from the slot in the rocker arm extension. Never attempt to separate the pull rod from the diaphragm. 5 Lift out the diaphragm spring, seal and washer. 6 Wash all the parts in clean petrol and check the diaphragm for cracks and deterioration. 7 Examine the link connecting end of the pull rod for wear. Renew the diaphragm if any wear is apparent. 8 Renew the diaphragm return spring if corroded and/or distorted. 9 Examine the inlet and outlet valves for wear and damage. The valve assemblies are peened into the upper body of the pump and are not renewable as separate items. If the valves are defective a new pump will be required. 10 Examine the upper and lower bodies for cracks, especially round the mounting flange holes. 11 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure. Always use a new seal and steel retaining washer before locating the return spring. Place the diaphragm in position on the lower body with its tab in the twelve o'clock position. Press down on the assembly, at the same time turning it in an anti-clockwise direction through 90°. This operation will correctly engage the pull rod with the link and at the same time align the diaphragm holes with those in the pump body. 12 Position the upper body in the lower body so that the scribed lines, made before dismantling, are in alignment. Fit the five securing screws, finger tight only. 13 Operate the rocker arm a few times to centralise the diaphragm and then fully tighten the securing screws in a diagonal sequence.

9

Fuel tank — removal and refitting

1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle and place it on axle stands or other suitable supports. 2 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery negative terminal. 3 Remove the fuel tank drain plug and drain the petrol into a clean container. Keep the petrol in a sealed container as a safety precaution.

4 Slacken the securing clip and disconnect the filler hose. 5 Slacken the securing clip and pull the vent pipe from its connection at the rear of the tank (not fitted on models with 750 cc engine). 6 Disconnect the fuel pipe at the sleeve connector on the right-hand chassis frame. 7 Undo and remove the support strap securing nuts at each side. 8 Remove the bolt securing the tank mounting bracket to the chassis rear crossmember (not fitted on early models with 750 cc

engines). 9 Carefully bend the support straps outwards to clear the mounting studs, then lower the tank and disconnect the lead from the fuel level transmitter unit. Remove the tank from under the vehicle. 10 Clean the tank thoroughly and examine it for damage or signs of leakage. Should a leak develop in the fuel tank do not be tempted to solder over the hole. Fue/ tank repair is a specialist job and unless lengthy safety precautions are observed can be a very dangerous procedure.

11.

Refitting the fuel tank is the reverse of the removal procedure.

10

Fuel tank level transmitter — removal, testing and refitting

1 Remove the fuel tank as described in Section 2 Unscrew the locking ring and withdraw the the tank (Figs. 3.6 and 3.7). ; 3 Removethesealingring. , 4 To test the transmitter unit reconnect the lead still disconnected from the transmitter unit, and check that the fuel gauge on the fascia is

5w

earth the transmitter unit lead; this should result in a full-scale deflection on the gauge; if not, the wiring or the gauge is faulty. 5 Reconnect the lead to the transmitter unit and manually operate the float lever. Check that when the float lever is at the bottom of its travel the fuel gauge is showing empty and when at the top of its travel the gauge reads full; if not the transmitter unit is faulty and should be renewed.

6 Refitting the transmitter unit is the reverse of the removal procedure. Remember to disconnect the battery if it has been used to test the transmitter unit. Always fit a new sealing ring between the unit and the fuel tank.

11

Carburettor — general

The carburettor fitted on Robin models with 750 cc engines is a Zenith 30IZ or 30IZE type, the latter being an exhaust emission controlled type which was introduced on vehicles manufactured after September 1973. Both carburettors are of the downdraught type and incorporates an accelerator pump and depression operated economy device. On the 30IZE carburettor the mixture control is pre-set and should not be adjusted without the use of a gas analyser to enable it to conform to

the Department of the Environment Vehicle Emission Regulations. On 301ZE carburettors the slow running adjustment should only be adjusted by means of the throttle adjustment screw. Robin 850 and Kitten models are equipped with a semidowndraught SU carburettor type HS2 which is fitted with a tamper proofing device which seals the mixture adjustment nut. The only adjustments that should be made are the slow running and fast idle screws. If these adjustments do not obtain a satisfactory performance then have the tuning carried out by a Reliant garage.

12

Carburettor — removal and refitting

1 Remove the air cleaner as described in Section 3. 2 Disconnect the accelerator and choke cable connections at the carburettor. 3 Unscrew the fuel inlet pipe union and disconnect the pipe from the carburettor. 4 Unscrew the two nuts securing the carburettor to the inlet manifold (inlet manifold adaptor on 850 cc engines), and lift away the carburettor. Remove the throttle return spring bracket and throttle lever. oa Remove the carburettor-to-manifold gasket. 6 Refitting the carburettor is the reverse of the removal procedure. Always use a new flange gasket.

13

Zenith carburettor — dismantling and reassembly

1

Refer to Fig. 3.9. Before dismantling obtain a carburettor repair kit.

Unscrew and remove the five screws which secure the float chamber cover to the body. 2 Unscrew the needle valve from the float chamber. 3 Lift out the plastic float with its pivot pin. 4 The jets can now be removed. Be sure to use a screwdriver having the appropriate blade to prevent burring the jet orifices. 5 Remove the accelerator pump diaphragm and spring by unscrew-

ing the

cover

securing

screws

and

carefully

releasing

the spring

tension as the cover is lifted away. 6 Remove the three screws securing the economy device and lift off

the assembly and gasket. 7 Dismantling the butterfly valves and spindles is not recommended. If wear is apparent between the spindles and carburettor body then a factory exchange carburettor should be obtained. 8 Clean all the components in petrol and blow through the internal passages and jets with air from a tyre pump. Never probe a jet or

9. transmitter unit from

needle valve seat with wire. 9 Inspect all the component parts for wear and the upper and lower

battery, and with the

bodies for cracks. 10 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverse of the dismantling sequence, using all the items supplied in the repair kit. 11 Carry out the carburettor adjustment after it is fitted on the engine, see Section 14.

switch on the ignition showing empty. Now

54

Chapter 3

Fuel and exhaust systems

14

55

Zenith carburettors — slow-running adjustment

30/Z carburettor

Screw 53 Screw, 54 swivel cable choke Pivot, 55 cam Spring, 56 choke cam Washer 60 Choke 57 valve Screw 58 Spindle 59 Spring, 671 choke return 62 Needle valve Washer 63 Gasket 64 Screw 65

1 Ensure that the engine is at normal operating temperature and then screw in the throttle adjusting screw, (Fig. 3.9), until the engine is at a fast idling speed. 2 Now screw the volume control screw in or out until all trace of hunting or stalling disappears. Reduce the idling speed, if excessive by unscrewing the throttle adjusting screw. Repeat this procedure until the desired idling speed is obtained. Do not aim at too low an idling speed. A good indication of the correct idling speed may be obtained from the ignition warning lamp which should be just out when the engine is idling. 3 Where the volume screw has been removed for renewal, or any other reason, a starting point for idling speed adjustment is to screw in the volume control screw fully (do not tighten it on its seating or the needle point of the screw may be damaged) and then unscrew it 14 to 2 turns.

30/ZE carburettor 4 The mixture control screw on 30IZE carburettors is pre-set to conform to Emissien Regulations and must not be altered. Slowrunning is adjusted by means of the throttle screw.

5 If the mixture control setting is suspect, checking and adjustment must be carried out using a gas analyser to ensure that the CO (carbon Swivel 50 interconnection Washer, 57 swivel swivel Circlip, 52 Cover 40 41 Screw 42 Gasket 43 Screw 44 idle Fast interconnection rod45 Split-pin Screw 47 48 Clip49 Choke cam Choke 46 bracket

monoxide) emission does not exceed 43%.

15

Zenith carburettor — fast idle (choke) adjustment

1 An adjustment is required to give a fast idle setting when choke control is ON. 2 Remove the air cleaner, as described in Section 3. . 3

the

Close the throttle valve by unscrewing the throttle screw fully and

then inserting a No 61 twist drill between the throttle valve and the wall of the carburettor bore. 4 Hold the choke valve against its stop pin and slacken the interconnection rod swivel on the choke cam (Fig. 3.8), move the fast idle interconnection rod through the swivel until the floating lever contacts the pump control lever. Retain this setting and tighten the swivel. Washer Air 32 jet33 correction Jet economy 34 Body 35 Valve 36 Spring 37 Washer 38 Diaphragm Spring 39 27 Filter gauze jet29 Main 28 float Plug, 30 chamber Washer 31

3.8 Fig. view Exploded Zenith of (Sec carburettor 13)

16

SU carburettor — dismantling and reassembly

1

Refer to Fig. 3,10. Take off the baffle plate from the inlet nozzle

and thoroughly clean the outside of the carburettor. 2 Mark the relative positions of the suction chamber burettor body.

3 ing 4 5

and the car-

Take out the damper and its washer. Unscrew the chamber retainscrews and lift off the chamber without tilting it. Take off the piston spring and washer (if fitted). Lift out the piston assembly carefully and empty the oil from the

piston bore.

6

Undo

the needle

sticks, tap the needle

714 control Pump rod Circlip 715 16 Spring Split-pin 17 Pump 78 cover Spring 19 Diaphragm 20 Screw 21 ringinjector Sealing 22 23 Pump 24 and Float arm25 spindle Float No tube Slow-running 26 50

Throttle Nut11 70 1 2Throttle Screw, running slow 12 Spring 713 Screw, volume contro/ 7Abutment plate 6Floating lever spindle 4Washer, sealing 5Distance washer 3Screw 8Lever, throttle 9Washer, locking

locking screw

and withdraw

the needle,

inwards first and then pull outwards.

if it

Note the

needle position in the piston. 7 Remove the piston lifting pin by pushing the pin upwards, detach the circlip and withdraw the pin and spring. 8 Support the moulded base of the jet and loosen the screw retaining the jet pick-up link. Relieve the tension of the pick-up lever return spring and remove the screw and brass bush (if fitted). 9 Undo the brass sleeve nut retaining the flexible jet tube to the float chamber and take out the jet assembly from the carburettor body. Note the gland, washer and ferrule at the end of the jet tube. 10 Remove the jet adjusting nut and screw. Undo the jet locking nut and detach the nut and jet bearing. Withdraw the bearing from the nut. 11 Record the seating points of the two ends of the pick-up lever return spring. Unscrew the lever pivot bolt together with its double coil spring, washer or spacer. Take off the lever assembly and return spring. 12 Record the seating of the two ends of the cam lever spring and push out the inner and outer pivot bolt tubes. Take care not to lose the spring. Lift off the cam lever, noting the washer between the two levers.

56 Fig. 3.10 Exploded view of SU carburettor (Sec 16) Body Lifting pin

Float chamber Bolt

Spring

Lid, float chamber

Circlip Suction chamber Piston Needle guide Throttle spindle DANDAARWHs Lockwasher 70 Nut 11 Disc 72 Screw 13 Throttle lever 174 Cam, lever and link 15

Fig. 3.9 Carburettor adjustment (Sec 14) 1 Throttle adjusting screw 2

Volume control screw

16 17 78 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Pivot

Tube, inner Tube, outer Cam lever Spacer Jet bearing Locknut Spring Jet adjusting nut Jet Washer Gland Ferrule Sleeve nut

ee 0)

16) (19) 5)

Float Hinge pin Needle and seat

Baffle plate Gasket Needle Piston spring

Guide Spring Damper Return spring Screw

Spring washer Throttle adjusting screw Spring

Fast idle adjusting screw Spring Screw, suction chamber

Guide, choke cable Screw /nsert, screw

Clip, pick-up lever Gasket Gasket

57

Fig. 3.11 SU carburettor adjustment (Sec 17 and 18) 1 Fast idle adjusting screw 2 Throttle adjusting screw

(\,

a)JERo™ o —)> = =]

Q

\

Fig. 3.12 Exploded view of throttle cable and pedal assembly — Kitten (Sec 20) Pedal mounting bracket Bolt Spring washer Plain washer AABN Nut

6

Throttle pedal

7 8

Pedal adjusting screw Locknut

9 Pedal bearing 10 Pedal bearing

11 Throttle cable assembly 12 Support bracket 13 Pivot pin and lever 14 Starlock washer 715 Trunnion

16 Washer 17 Link 18 Clip 19 Throttle return spring

58

Fig. 3.13 Exploded view of the exhaust system — Robin (Sec 21) 1 2

3

Downpipe Gasket Nut

4 5 6

Silencer Clamp Bolt

7 8

9

Nut Support strap Bolt

10 Washer 771° Nut

Fig. 3.14 Exploded view of exhaust system — Kitten (Sec 21) 1

2 3 4

Exhaust system complete

5

Set screw

9

Gasket Nut Attachment bracket

6 7 8

Spring washer Nut Spring washer

10 Flexible ring, silencer support 11 Exhaust silencer, repair kit 12 Connecting tube joint, repair

Nut

kit

713° Clamp, repair kit

14 Bolt 75 Nut 16 Flexible ring silencer support

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems 13 Remove the bolt retaining the float chamber to the carburettor body. Record the location of the float chamber lid. Undo the lid retaining screws and lift off the lid and its gasket, complete with float assembly. Pull out the float hinge pin from its serrated end and detach the float. 14 Remove the float needle from its seating and unscrew the seating from the lid, using a spanner 0-338 in (8-58 mm) across flats. Take

care not to damage any components. 15 Dismantling the throttle valve is not recommended.

If wear is apparent between the spindle and carburettor body then a factory exchange carburettor should be obtained. 16 Clean all the dismantled parts in petrol and examine them for wear and damage. Check the needle for straightness by rolling it on a flat surface. A bent needle must be renewed, never attempt to straighten it. Blow through the jet bore to ensure that it and the feed pipe are unobstructed. If the needle is being renewed due to wear, renew the jet at the same time as it will also be worn. 17 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure. When refitting the jet assembly centre the jet as follows: (a) Fit the jet bearing, washer and locking nut. Do not tighten the nut. Insert the jet into the bearing and the fuel feed pipe connection (without gland and washer) into the outlet from the float chamber. With the piston assembly in its lowest position and the jet fully lifted, tighten the jet locking nut

(b) Remove

the jet. Fit the spring and jet adjusting nut to the jet

bearing. Fit the gland, washer and ferrule to the flexible pipe. Check that the end of the tube projects at least 0.188 in (4.8 mm) beyond the gland. Lightly smear petroleum jelly

(Vaseline) on the outside of the jet and insert it in the bearing. Fit the feed pipe into the float chamber outlet and tighten the sleeve nut until the neoprene gland is compressed. Do not overtighten as this can cause leakage

18 Check the float level setting by inverting the float chamber lid and measuring the gap between the float and the raised shoulder of the lid. The gap should be 0-125 to 0-187 in (3:2 to 4-8 mm). If this measurement is not correct adjust by bending the float assembly lever. 19 Top-up the piston damper with SAE 20W/50 engine oil until the level is 0-5 in (13 mm) above the top of the damper bore in the piston rod.

17

SU carburettor — slow-running adjustment

19

59

Throttle pedal — removal and refitting

The throttle pedal is mounted on the same bracket assembly as the clutch and brake pedals. Removal and refitting procedure is described in Chapter 5, Section 9.

20

Throttle cable — removal and refitting

Robin — early models 1 Remove the centre console as described in Chapter 12, Section 23, then undo the securing screws and lift away the engine rear access panel.

2 Remove the plastic grommet from the left-hand side of the engine bulkhead. 3 Working through the rear access aperture, slacken the throttle lever trunnion locking screw. A long screwdriver will be required. 4 Disconnect the inner cable end nipple from the lug on the throttle pedal and release the plastic fastener from the pedal mounting

bracket. Pull out the cable from inside the engine compartment, referring to Fig. 5.4 in Chapter 5. 5

Release

the cable from the support bracket on the cylinder head

and remove it from the vehicle. 6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Robin — later models and Kitten models 7 Slacken the screw securing the throttle inner cable to the trunnion on the throttle operating linkage at the carburettor. Withdraw the throttle cable from the trunnion. Prise the throttle cable grommet from the hole in the bulkhead (Fig. 3.12). 8 Unhook the inner cable nipple from the lug on the throttle pedal, release the plastic fastener from the pedal mounting bracket. Withdraw the cable from inside the engine compartment, through the grommet hole in the bulkhead. 9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

21

Exhaust system — description, removal and refitting

1. The exhaust system comprises a downpipe and silencer with a short tailpipe on Robin models. On Kitten models a single piece exhaust pipe and silencer assembly is fitted (see Figs. 3.13 and 3.14).

Vehicles fitted with tamperproof carburettors have the mixture adjustment nut sealed with a plastic cap which cannot be removed without destroying it. Adjustment of the mixture should be carried out by your local Reliant garage with the necessary equipment for ensuring the CO emission is less than 44%. Normally the slow-running should be adjusted by means of the throttle adjusting screw only but the following adjustment gives a basic setting for the mixture which should then be checked for CO emission as soon as possible. 1 Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. 2 Turn the throttle adjusting screw (Fig. 3.11), to obtain the desired idling speed. 3 Turn the jet adjusting nut up to weaken or down to enrich the mixture until the fastest idling speed consistent with even running is obtained. Then re-adjust the throttle screw to give an idling speed of 900 rpm.

18

SU carburettor — fast idle (choke) adjustment

Note: The fast idle must be checked after any adjustment of the slowrunning. 1 Pull out the choke knob on the fascia until the linkage is about to move the carburettor jet operating arm.

2 Start the engine and adjust the fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 3.11) to give an engine speed of 2250 rpm. 3

Push

the choke

control knob fully in and check that there is a

clearance of 0-040 in (1-016 mm) between the end of the adjusting screw and the cam (Flg. 3.11). 4 Check that the mixture control (choke) cable has approximately 0-0625 in (1-6 mm) free movement before it starts to pull on the cam lever.

Fig. 3.15 Cutting dimension for removal of old silencer — Kitten

(Sec 21)

60 i

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

Ee

Both types are located by flexible supports at the rear and on Kitten models an additional support bracket is attached to the bellhousing. 2 Jack up the vehicle and place axle stands or other suitable supports under the chassis side members. 3 Remove the exhaust pipe to manifold securing nuts and, if applicable, the nut securing the downpipe to the bracket attached to the bellhousing. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and silencer assembly from the flexible mounting supports and remove the assembly from under the vehicle. 4 Examine the assembly for rust and damage also check the flexible mounting supports for deterioration and renew as necessary. 5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal sequence. Always use a

ee

eee

new flange gasket when connecting the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. 6 A silencer repair kit is available for Kitten models. If the silencer .has deteriorated and the downpipe is still in good condition, the silencer can be renewed as follows:

(a) Cut off the old silencer to the dimensions shown in Fig. 3.15 (b) Fit the connecting tube and clamps (see Fig. 3.14) to the exhaust pipe and insert the stub pipe of the new silencer into the tube until itis in contact with the end of the exhaust pipe (c) Fit the assembly on the vehicle and swivel the silencer to

obtain correct alignment then tighten the clamps on the tube connection

i

22

Fault diagnosis — fuel system

a

Symptom

Reason/s

nn

Fuel consumption excessive

Air cleaner choked and dirty giving rich mixture Fuel leaking from carburettor, fuel pump or fuel lines Float chamber flooding Generally worn carburettor Distributor condenser faulty

Balance weights or vacuum advance mechanism in distributor faulty Carburettor incorrectly adjusted — mixture too rich Idling speed too high Contact breaker gap incorrect Valve clearances incorrect Incorrectly set spark plugs Tyres under-inflated Wrong spark plugs fitted Brakes dragging Insufficient fuel delivery or weak mixture due to air leaks

Petrol tank air vent restricted Partially clogged filters Fuel pump diaphragm leaking or damaged Gasket in fuel pump damaged Fuel pump valves sticking due to petrol gumming Too little fuel in fuel tank (prevalent when climbing steep hills) Union joints on pipe connections loose

Split in fuel pipe on suction side of fuel pump Inlet manifold to head or inlet manifold to carburettor gasket leaking

Chapter 4 Ignition system Contents

Condenser— removal, testing and refitting Contact breaker points gap — adjustment Contact breaker points — removal and refitting Distributor— inspection and repair Distributor— lubrication

Distributor—removallandinefitting’ scree sl scuncisney eens cemele Eaultidiagnosis—ignitiomsystem sus aie = siete ses arerste re eee Generalidesaniption estes sm. caten- shakin cocteueeiae fie aiaovens ee IQMItRORRULTTRUNG) were syoes e os Scaler vaeeiee cinerea ico Retotatey ene ee Spankipluigs:amd leads mi.t ene cheeses rit) waren cea ae. Sea pee

6 10 1 8 9

Specifications

System type ae

GIO

12V negative earth; battery, coil and distributor

2a doa

atl eee nee

102429

Spark plugs PRS

5 2

9 8 tethea etnTENA) ORS

RO

em

are

Motorcraft AGR 32 0.025 in (0.64 mm)

12 volt, negative earth

Distributor Type:

Robin with 750 cc engine up to No 7941 Robin with 750 cc engine from No 7942 Robin with 850 cc engine and all Kitten models OMA CMOOINESICAD utente fie siicis scan ec Rio ope Eoesee GE Direction of rotation Drive Contact breaker spring tension Dwell angle: Type 23D4

Lucas 23D4 Lucas 43D4 Lucas 45D4

ee ene eel

Type 43D4 and 45D4 Condenser capacity

Automatic advance: Type 23D4 and 43D4

18 to 24 oz (522 to 680 g) 60° 273° Sates 0.18 to 0.25 mfd Centrifugal Centrifugal and vacuum

Type 45D4

Static timing Robin — 750 cc engine: 30 IZE carburettor 30 1Z carburettor Robin — 850 cc engine and all Kitten models

0.015 in (0.38 mm) Anti-clockwise Skew gear from camshaft

...............

Torque wrench setting Spark plugs

General description In order that the engine can run correctly it is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension voltage from the battery to the coil where it is converted to high tension voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark plug

10° BTDC TDC TDC Ibf ft 15

Nm 21

gap in the cylinders many times a second under high compression pressures, providing that the system is in good condition and that all adjustments are correct.

The ingition system is divided into two circuits. The low tension circuit and the high tension circuit.

The low tension (sometimes known as the primary) circuit consists of the battery, lead to the ignition switch, lead from the ignition switch to the low tension or primary coil windings (terminal +) and the lead

62 IGNITION SWITCH

CONTACT

°

BREAKER

Fig. 4.1 Diagram of the ignition circuit (Sec 1) (LT circuit indicated by heavy lines)

a 2.1 The distributor is mounted on the right-hand side of the cylinder block at the front

Fig. 4.2 Removal of contact breaker — early 750 cc engines (Sec 3) 1 Contact breaker points 2 Pivot post

3 Terminal post 4 Securing screw

Chapter 4 Ignition system

63

oe

3.2 Distributor with cap and rotor removed

from the low tension coil windings (coil terminal —) to the contact breaker points and condenser in the distributor. The high tension circuit consists of the high tension or secondary coil windings, the heavy ignition lead from the centre of the coil to the centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm, and the spark plug leads and spark plugs. The system functions in the following manner. Low tension - voltage is changed in the coil into high tension voltage by the opening and closing of the contact breaker points in the low tension circuit. High tension voltage is then fed via the carbon brush in the centre of the distributor cap to the rotor arm of the distributor cap, and each times it comes in line with one of the four metal segments in the cap, which are connected to the spark plug leads, the opening and closing -of the contact breaker points causes the high tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from the rotor arm to the appropriate metal segments and so via the spark plug lead to the spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark plug gap before going to earth. The ignition is advanced and retarded automatically, to ensure the spark occurs at just the right instant for the particular load at the prevailing engine speed. The ignition advance is controlled mechanically on 750 cc engines and on 850 cc engines both mechanically and by a vacuum operated system. The mechanical governor mechanism comprises two lead weights, which move out from the distributor shaft as the engine speed rises due to centrifugal force. As they move outwards they rotate the cam relative to the distributor shaft, and so advance the spark. The weights are held in position by two light springs and it is the tension of the springs which is largely responsible for correct spark advancement. The vacuum control consists of a diaphragm, one side of which is connected via a small bore tube to the carburettor, and the other side to the contact breaker plate. Depression in the inlet manifold and carburettor, which varies with engine speed and throttle opening, causes the diaphragm to move, so moving the contact breaker plate, and advancing or retarding the spark. A fine degree of control is achieved by a spring in the vacuum assembly.

2

Contact breaker points gap — adjustment

1. To adjust the contact breaker points to the correct gap, first pull off the two clips securing the distributor cap to the distributor body, and lift away the cap. Clean the cap inside and out with a dry cloth. It is unlikely that the four segments will be badly burned or scored, but if

they are the cap will have to be renewed (photo). 2 Inspect the carbon brush contact located in the top of the cap to see that it is unbroken. 3 Check the contact spring on the top of the rotor arm. It must be clean and have adequate tension to ensure good contact.

4

Gently prise the contact breaker points open to examine the condi-

3.4 Distributor with contact breaker set removed

tion of their faces. If they are rough, pitted or dirty it will be necessary to remove them for resurfacing or for new points to be fitted, as described in Section 3. 5 Adjustment of the cleaned or new points is carried out by first rotating the engine until the heel of the spring breaker arm is on the highest point of the distributor cam. The engine may be turned by using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, using the starter or by jacking a rear wheel and with top gear engaged rotating the road wheel. It will be found easier to turn the engine if the spark plugs are first removed.

6 Refer to Fig. 4.2 and slacken the fixed contact breaker plate securing screw. Insert a .015 inch (.38 mm) feeler between the points and adjust the gap by using a screwdriver in the adjustment notch at the end of the fixed plate. The gap is correct when the feeler blade just falls by its own weight. 7 Tighten the fixed contact plate screw and recheck the gap. 8 Apply a smear of Vaseline or high melting point grease to the high points of the distributor cam and place one or two drops of thin oil to the contact breaker arm swivel post. Replace the contact breaker and distributor cap.

3

Contact breaker points — removal and refitting

1 If the contact breaker points are burned, pitted or badly worn, they must be removed and their contact faces resurfaced or new points must be fitted.

750 cc engines up to No 7941 2 Toremove the point pull off the distributor cap spring clips, lift off the distributor cap and remove the rotor (photo). 3 Unscrew the nut from the terminal post, remove the steel washer, nylon insert and the LT and condenser terminal leads. Lift off the contact breaker arm and then remove the insulating washer from the terminal post. 4 The adjustable contact breaker plate is removed by unscrewing the one halding down screw and lifting it out complete with spring and flat washer (photo).

750 cc engines from No 7942 and 850 cc engines 5 6

Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Press the terminal end of the moving contact spring towards the

cam (Fig. 4.5). This disengages the spring from the nylon insulator attached to the terminal post. The condenser lead and the LT lead can now be detached from the folded end of the spring. 7 Undo the screw securing the fixed contact and lift the contact breaker assembly from the base plate. 8 To reface the points, rub their faces on a fine carborundum stone, or on fine emery paper. It is important that the faces are rubbed flat and parallel to each other so that there will be complete face to face

64

Chapter 4 Ignition system

contact when the points are closed. One of the points will be fitted and the other will have deposits on it. 9 It is necessary to completely remove the built up deposits, but not necessary to rub the pitted point right down to the stage where all the

pitting has disappeared, though obviously if this is done it will prolong the time before the operation or refacing the points has to be repeated.

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. When refitting the contact breaker set (850 cc and later 750 cc engines), ensure that the condenser and LT lead connecting terminal in the folded end of the moving contact spring has the cable clips facing outwards, otherwise the lower clip may foul the fixed contact

plate and short circuit the

contact breaker (see Fig. 4.5). 11 Adjust the contact breaker points gap as described in Section 3 and lubricate the distributor, see Section 5.

4

Condenser — removal, testing and refitting

1 The purpose of the condenser (capacitor) the contact breaker points open, there is no which might otherwise cause pitting and waste 2 The condenser is fitted in parallel with the

is to ensure that when sparking across them voltage. contact breaker points

and in the event of a fault developing ignition failure will occur as the points will be prevented from interrupting the LT circuit. 3 Should the engine become very difficult to start or misfire after several miles running or the points become excessively pitted, then the condenser has probably failed. A test may be made by separating the points by hand with the ignition switched on. If a flash occurs then the condenser may be regarded as unserviceable.

Fig. 4.3 Type 43D4 distributor with cap and rotor removed (Sec 3) 4 Terminal post

7 Securing screw 2 Lubrication pad 3 Pivot post

5 Condenser/LT lead

4 It is unrealistic to test condensers due to the cost of equipment and the low price of a new component. Test by substitution of a new condenser and observe improvement in starting and running performance of the engine. 5

To remove

the condenser from the distributor base plate on early

750 cc engines, first remove the distributor cap and rotor. Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the LT and condenser lead tags from the nylon screw. Undo and remove the condenser securing screw, then lift the condenser from the baseplate.

6 To remove the condenser on the later 750 cc engines and 850 cc engines, remove the distributor contact breaker assembly as described in Section 3, then unscrew the securing screw and lift the condenser from the baseplate. The condenser and lead, LT terminal and LT lead is a complete assembly. The LT head with grommet and insulated Lucar terminal is withdrawn through the hole in the distributor body. 7 Refitting the condenser is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the screw securing the condenser to the baseplate is tight and that there is no possibility of a short circuit between the condenser lead terminal and the contact breaker plate.

5

Distributor lubrication

1

It is important that the distributor cam is lubricated with Vaseline

at the specified mileages, and that the breaker arm, governor weights, and cam spindle are lubricated with engine oil once every 6000 miles (10 000 km). 2 Great care should be taken not to use too much lubricant, as any excess that finds it way onto the contact breaker points could cause burning and misfiring. 3 To gain access to the cam spindle, lift away the rotor arm. Drop no more than two drops of engine oil onto the felt pad. This will run down the spindle when the engine is hot and lubricate the bearings. 4 To lubricate the automatic timing control allow a few drops of oil to pass through the hole in the contact baseplate through which the four-sided cam emerges. Apply not more than one drop of oil to the

Fig. 4.4

Removing

the contact

breaker — type 43D4

and 45D4

distributor (Sec 3) 1 Folded end of moving contact spring 2 LT lead (black) 3 Condenser lead (orange) 4 LT terminal

5 Cable clips 6 Terminal post 7 Nylon insulator

8 Fixed contact securing screw

pivot post and remove any excess.

6

Distributor — removal and refitting

1 To remove the distributor from the engine start by disconnecting the HT leads from the spark plugs, mark the leads to assist when refitting the leads. 2 Remove the HT and LT leads from the coil. 3 On 850 cc engines disconnect the vacuum tube from the vacuum control unit on the distributor.

Press towards cam to

detach moving-contact spring from terminal post

Fig. 4.5 The cable clips must face outward when fitting the contact breaker set — type 43D4 and 43D5 distributors (Sec 3)

65

Distributor assembly Cap Rotor arm Condenser HAWN Contact breaker set

Brush and spring Sealing washer Securing bolt Spring washer Plain washer

8.1 Timing marks on front cover and crankshaft pulley

66

Chapter 4 Ignition system

4 Turn the should now cap. Before plate to the

engine till No 1 piston is at TDC. The distributor rotor arm be pointing at the No 1 HT lead contact in the distributor removing the single bolt securing the distributor clamp cylinder block, scribe the position of the clamp plate relative to the cylinder block. Note: /f it is not wished to disturb the timing do not loosen the clamp pinch-bolt. 5 Refitting the distributor is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check that the No 1 piston is at TDC

and the distributer rotor arm

is

pointing in the direction of the No 1 HT lead contact in the distributor cap. Re-align the marks on the clamp plate and cylinder block before tightening the securing bolt. If the position of the clamp plate has been disturbed it will be necessary to retime the ignition as described in

Section 8. a es ee 7

Distributor — inspection and repair

ee ee

eed

1 Check the points as described in Section 3. Check the distributor cap for signs of tracking, indicated by a thin black line between the segments. Renew the cap if any signs of tracking are found. 2 \f the metal portion of the rotor arm is badly burnt or loose, renew the arm. If slightly burnt clean the arm with a fine file. 3. Check that the carbon distributor cap.

brush

moves

freely in the centre

of the

4 No further dismantling of the distributor should be carried out as only the distributor cap, rotor arm, condenser and leads assembly and the contact breaker set are supplied as spares. Should any other part of the distributor be faulty a new distributor will have to be fitted.

8

Ignition timing

1

Refer to Fig. 4.9. There are two notches on the crankshaft pulley,

indicating No 1 piston at TDC (top dead centre) or 10° BTDC (before top dead centre).

A matching pointer is to be found on the front of the

timing chain cover (photo). 2 Tocheck the timing turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until This can pressure until the with the

No 1 piston is coming up to TDC on the compression stroke. be ascertained by removing No 1 spark plug and feeling the being developed in the cylinder. Continue turning the engine TDC or 10° BTDC notch on the crankshaft pulley is in line pointer on the timing chain cover (as specified in Specifica-

tions at the beginning of this Chapter). 3 Remove the distributor cap and connect a 12V bulb between the LT terminal of the distributor and a good earth. With the ignition switched on the bulb will light at the precise moment that the contact breaker points open. 4 Slacken the distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt until the distributor

body is free to turn. Switch on the ignition. If the bulb lights turn the distributor body counterclockwise until the bulb goes out. 5 Apply light pressure to the rotor arm, with a finger, in a clockwise direction. With this light pressure still applied to the rotor, turn the distributor body in a clockwise direction until the bulb just lights. Retighten the clamp plate pinch bolt. 6 To check the setting, turn the engine through two complete revolutions until the bulbs just lights. With the engine in this position check that the specified notch on the crankshaft pulley is in line with the pointer on the timing chain cover. Should they not be in alignment repeat the timing setting procedure and check again. 7 Disconnect the test bulb and refit the distributor cap. 8 A more accurate setting of the ignition timing can be achieved with a stroboscopic timing light as follows. 9 On 850 cc engines disconnect the vacuum advance tube from the distributor and plug the end of the tube. 10 Mark the specified timing notch on the crankshaft pulley and the pointer on the timing chain cover with quick drying white paint or chalk. 11 Run the engine to normal operating temperatures and check that the idling speed is correct (see Chapter 3), then switch off the engine. 12 Connect a stroboscope timing light between No 1 spark plug and No 1 spark plug lead.

13

Start the engine and point the stroboscope

at the timing marks.

They will appear stationary and in alignment if the timing is correct. 14 If they are not directly opposite each other, loosen the distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt and turn the distributor body one way or the

Fig. 4.7 Component parts of distributor — type 43 D4 (Sec 7) 1 Distributor assembly 2 3 4 5

Cap Rotorarm Condenser Contact breaker set

6 7 8 9

Brush and spring Securing bolt Spring washer Plain washer

Measuring plug gap. A feeler gauge of the correct size (see

ignition system specifications) should have a slight ‘drag’ when slid between the electrodes. Adjust gap if necessary

Adjusting plug gap. The plug gap is adjusted by bending the earth electrode inwards, or outwards, as necessary until the correct clearance is obtained. Note the use of the correct tool

i!

Normal. Grey-brown deposits lightly coated core nose. Gap

increasing by around 0.001 in (0.025 mm) per 1000 miles (1600 km). Plugs ideally suited to engine and engine in good condition

fs

Carbon fouling. Dry, black, sooty deposits. and eventually misfire. Fault: over-rich fuel carburettor mixture settings, float level and operation and cleanliness of air filter. Plugs cleaning

att

Will cause weak spark mixture. Check: jet sizes; choke can be re-used after

Ake

guides; sometimes occurs (temporarily) during running-in

Overheating. Electrodes have glazed appearance, core nose very white - few deposits. Fault: plug overheating. Check: plug value, ignition timing, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture

period. Plugs can be re-used after thorough cleaning

(too weak). Discard plugs and cure fault immediately

Electrode damage. Electrodes burned away; core nose has burned, glazed appearance. Fault: initial pre-ignition. Check: as for ‘Overheating’ but may be more severe. Discard plugs and remedy fault before piston or valve damage occurs

Split core nose (may appear initially as a crack). Damage is selfevident, but cracks will only show after cleaning. Fault: preignition or wrong gap-setting technique. Check: ignition timing, cooling system, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture (too weak). Discard plugs, rectify fault immediately

Oil fouling. Wet, oily deposits. Will cause weak spark and

eventually misfire. Fault: worn bores/piston rings or valve

68

Fig. 4.8 Component parts of distributor — type 45D4 (Sec 7)

1 2

Distributor assembly Cap

9 Sleeve 10 Fuel trap

4 5 6 7 8

Condenser Contact breaker set Brush and spring Vacuum advance tube Elbow sleeve

72 713 14 715

BuRotonany

11 Clip

Reduction sleeve Securing bolt Spring washer Plain washer

$

ape

es

Fig. 4.9 Ignition timing marks (Sec 8) 1 Pointer on timing chain cover 2 TDC notch 3. 10° BTDC notch

Chapter 4 Ignition system other until the marks line up. The timing is advanced when the distributor body is turned counterclockwise and is retarded when turned clockwise. Tighten the pinch-bolt and then recheck the timing. _ 15 If the engine speed is now increased the white mark on the crankshaft pulley will move away from the fixed pointer on the timing chain cover, indicating that the centrifugal advance is operating. If the vacuum tube (850 cc engines only) is reconnected to the vacuum unit the operation of the vacuum unit can be checked by opening the throttle sharply and watching the timing marks. 16 Remove the timing light and reconnect the HT lead to the No 1 spark plug.

9

Spark plugs and leads

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the proper running and efficiency of the engine. 2 At intervals of 6000 miles (10 O00 km) the plugs should be removed, examined, cleaned, and if worn excessively, replaced. The condition of the spark plugs will also tell much about the overall condition of the engine. 3 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, it is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug. (A hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly — a cold plug transfers it away quickly). 4 The plugs fitted as standard are listed in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. If the tip and insulator nose is covered with hard black looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn as well as the mixture being too rich. 5 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 6 If there are any traces of long brown tapering stains on the outside of the white portion of the plug, then the plug will have to be renewed, as this shows that there is a faulty joint between the plug body and the insulator, and compression is being allowed to leak away. 7 Plugs should be cleaned by a sand blasting machine, which will free them from carbon more thoroughly than cleaning by hand. The machine will also test the condition of the plug under compression. Any plug that fails to spark at the recommended pressure should be renewed. 8 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance; if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to the figure given in the

Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 To set it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. 10 When replacing the plugs, remember to use new plug washers,

69

Engine fails to start 3.

If the engine fails to start and the car was running normally when

it was last used, first check there is fuel in the petrol tank. If the engine turns over normally on the starter motor and the battery is evidently well charged, then the fault may be in either the high or low tension circuits. First check the HT circuit. Note: /f the battery is known

to be

fully charged, the ignition light comes on, and the starter motor fails to turn the engine check the tightness of the leads on the battery terminals and also the secureness of the earth lead to its connection to the body. It is quite common for the leads to have worked /oose, even if they look and feel secure. /f one of the battery terminal posts gets very hot when trying to work the starter motor this is a sure indication of a faulty connection to that terminal. 4 One of the commonest reasons for bad starting is wet or damp sparking plug leads and distributor. Remove the distributor cap. If condensation is visible internally dry the cap with a rag and also wipe over the leads. Refit the cap. 5 If the engine still fails to start, check that current is reaching the plugs, by disconnecting each plug lead in turn at the sparking plug end, and hold the end of the cable about 0.2 in (5 mm) away from the cylinder block. Spin the engine on the starter motor. 6 Sparking between the end of the cable and the block should be fairly strong with a regular blue spark. (Hold the lead with a rubber glove to avoid electric shocks). If current is reaching the plugs, then remove them and clean and regap them to 0.025 in. The engine should now start. 7 \f there is no spark at the plug leads take off the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and hold it to the block as before. Spin the engine on the starter once more. A rapid succession of blue sparks between the end of the lead and the block indicates that the coil is in order and that the distributor cap is cracked, the rotor arm faulty or the carbon brush in the top of the distributor cap is not making good

contact with the rotor arm. Possibly the points are in bad condition. Clean and reset them as described in this Chapter, Sections 2 and 3. 8 If there are no sparks from the end of the lead from the coil check the connections at the coil end of the lead. If it is in order start checking the low tension circuit. 9 Use a 12V voltmeter or a 12V bulb and two lengths of wire. With the ignition switch on and the points open test between the low tension wire to the coil (it is marked S.W. or +) and earth. No reading indicates a break in the supply from the ignition switch. Check the connections at the switch to see if any are loose. Refit them and the

engine should run. A reading shows a faulty coil or condenser or broken lead between the coil and the distributor. 10 Take the condenser wire off the points assembly and with the points open test between the moving point and earth. If there now is a reading then the fault is in the condenser. Fit a new one and the fault is cleared. 11 With no reading from the moving point to earth, take a reading between earth and the CB or —terminal of the coil. A reading here shows a broken wire which will need to be replaced between the coil and distributor. No reading confirms that the coil has failed and must

and refit the leads from the distributor in the correct firing order which is 1-3—4~2 (No 1 cylinder is the one nearest the radiator). 11 The plug leads require no routine attention other than being kept clean and wiped over regularly. At intervals of 6000 miles (10 000 km), however, pull the leads off the plugs and distributor, one at a time

be renewed, after which the engine will run once more. Remember to refit the condenser wire to the points assembly. For these tests it is sufficient to separate the points with a piece of dry paper while testing with the points open.

and make sure no water has found its way onto the connections. Remove any corrosion from the brass ends, wipe the collars on top of the distributor, and refit the leads.

Engine misfires

10

Fault diagnosis — ignition system

1

By far the majority of running troubles are caused by faults in the

ignition system either in the low tension or high tension circuits.

2 There are two main symptoms indicating ignition faults. Either the engine will not start or fire, or the engine is difficult to start and misfires. If it is a regular misfire, ie the engine is only running on two or three cylinders the fault is almost sure to be in the secondary, or high tension circuit. If the misfiring is intermittent, the fault could be in either the high or low tension circuits. If the car stops suddenly or will not start at all, it is likely that the fault is in the low tension circuit. Loss of power and overheating, apart from faulty carburation settings, are normally due to faults in the distributor or incorrect ignition timing.

12 If the engine misfires regularly run it at a fast idling speed. Pull off each of the plug caps in turn and listen to the note of the engine. Hold the plug cap in a dry cloth or with a rubber glove as additional protection against a shock from the HT supply. 13 No difference in engine running will be noticed when the lead from the defective circuit is removed. Removing the lead from one of the good cylinders will accentuate the misfire. 14 Remove the plug lead from the end of the defective plug and hold it about 0.2 in (5 mm) away from the block. Restart the engine. If the sparking is fairly strong and regular the fault must lie in the spark plug. 15 The plug may be loose, the insulation may be cracked, or the points may have burnt away giving too wide a gap for the spark to jump. Worse still, one of the points may have broken off. Either renew the plug, or clean it, reset the gap, and then test it.

16

If there is no spark at the end of the plug lead, or if it is weak and

intermittent, check the ignition lead from the distributor to the plug. If the insulation is cracked or perished, renew the lead. Check the connections at the distributor cap.

70 a

Chapter 4 Ignition system

17 If there is still no spark, examine the distributor cap carefully running between two or more electrodes, or between an electrode and some other part of the distributor. These lines are paths which now conduct electricity across the cap thus letting it run to earth. The only answer is a new distributor cap. 18 Apart from the ignition timing being incorrect, other causes of misfiring have already been dealt with under the section dealing with the failure of engine to start. To recap — these are that: a) The coil may be faulty giving an intermittent misfire b) There may be a damaged wire or loose connection in the low

tension circuit

c) The condenser may be short circuiting d) There may be a mechanical fault in the distributor (broken driving spindle or contact breaker spring) 19 If the ignition timing is too far retarded, it should be noted that the engine will tend to overheat, and there will be a quite noticeable drop in power. If the engine is overheating and the power is down, and the ignition timing is correct, then the carburettor should be checked, as it is likely that this is where the fault lies.

Chapter 5 Clutch Contents MEG TACNUSUIMOM Cl fis caters cee ns ce ee ee ee Clutch assembly — inspection and renovation .............. PPRCINASSCMIDIV—ONLEING, 40 elo cc ee le ee eee ee eee BCHASSCIMDIV—=TEMOVAl kos ce oe ew ee es Clutch cable —removal andrefitting ................00005 Clutch judder—diagnosis andremedy .............-.0005 Clutch operating arm, fork and release thrust pad — removal soe) ce TRE) pet) ond a SPA ei ic One

7 4 5 3 6 14 8

Clutch slip — diagnosis andremedy ............00-0000ee Clutch spin — diagnosis andremedy .............0.00200Clutch squeal— diagnosis and remedy ..............--4-Faultidiagnosis—.gemerall cain 6 sche nosy h csv eloe elois piede esaves

12 13 VA 10

General description MaimtenanCemern ter sci cress chereie te) 6 bios a » alee Pedal assembly — removal, dismantling, reassembly

cabelas

2

and refitting

Specifications

Spring pressure plate with single dry plate or diaphragm assembly with single dry plate

Driven plate

6.25 in (158.75 mm) diameter

Actuation

Cable operated

Adjustment

i in (1.5 mm) free movement at clutch operating arm

Torque wrench setting Pressure plate-to-flywheel

Ibf ft 12 to 15

1.

3

Clutch assembly — removal

1

Access to the clutch assembly may be obtained either by removal

General description

Two types of clutch assembly may be fitted. A spring pressure plate assembly or alternatively a diaphragm spring clutch assembly which is interchangeable with the spring pressure plate assembly. The 6-25 in (158-75 mm) diameter driven plate has a spring cushioned hub to ensure a smooth take-up of the drive. The driven plate splined hub is free to move along the splines of the gearbox primary shaft. The primary shaft is supported at its forward end by a spigot bearing in the flywheel. The clutch pressure plate assembly comprises the cover, a cast iron release plate, release fingers and thrust springs (or a diaphragm spring) and the pressure plate which bears on the friction lining of the driven plate. The clutch operating mechanism consists of a cable linking the clutch pedal to the clutch operating arm, which in turn actuates the operating fork, and a carbon type thrust release pad, retained in position on the operating fork by two spring retaining clips.

2

Maintenance

Check the clutch operating arm free movement every 6000 miles (10 000 km) and adjust, if necessary, as described in Section 7.

Nm 17 to 20

of the engine/gearbox from the car as described in Chapter 1 or by removing the gearbox and leaving the engine in position in the car as described in the next Chapter. i 2 Mark the pressure plate cover in relation to its position on the flywheel in order that it may be returned to its original location on reassembly to maintain its balance.

3 Unscrew each of the sequence until the pressure locating dowels. 4 Withdrawing the bolts catching the driven plate as

4

cover securing bolts half a turn each in is relieved and the assembly is loose on its and lift away the pressure plate assembly, it falls free.

Clutch assembly — inspection and renovation

1 Examine the clutch driven plate friction linings for wear and loose rivets and the disc for rim distortion, cracks, broken hub springs and worn splines. The surface of the friction linings may be highly glazed but as long as the clutch material pattern can be clearly seen this is satisfactory. Compare the amount of lining wear with a new clutch driven plate at the stores in your local garage and if the linings are more than three quarters worn replace the driven plate.

72

Fig. 5.1 Clutch assembly and actuating mechanism (Sec 1 and 8) 7 2 3

Driven plate Clutch cover assembly Dowel

4

Setscrew

5 6

Spring washer Release thrust pad

10 Retaining pin

7 8

Retaining clip Operating fork

9

Operating arm and shaft

11 Plain washers 12 Lockwasher

; ay

I4-5 PARAM mdp

agen

Fig. 5.3 Adjusting the operating arm free movement (Sec 7)

Fig. 5.2 Centralising the clutch driven plate (Sec 5)

1 Adjuster nut 2 Trunnion 3 Operating arm

Chapter 5 Clutch 2

Itis always best to renew the clutch driven plate as an assembly to

preclude further trouble but if it is wished to merely renew the linings, the rivets should be drilled out and not knocked out with a punch. The manufacturers do not advise that only the linings are renewed and experience dictates that it is far more satisfactory to renew the driven plate complete than to try and economise by only fitting new friction linings. 3 Check the machined faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate. If either are grooved they should either be machined until smooth or renewed.

4 \|f the pressure plate is cracked or split it is essential that an exchange unit is fitted. 5 Check the clutch release thrust pad for wear and renew, if necessary, as described in Section 8.

5

Clutch assembly -— refitting

1 Clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate with petrol to remove all grease and oil. 2 Donothandle the driven plate with greasy hands. 3 Place the driven plate against the face of the flywheel with the shorter splined hub facing the flywheel. 4 Refit the pressure plate cover assembly loosely on its dowels, aligning the marks made prior to removal. 5 Insert the six retaining bolts and spring washers finger tight so that the driven plate is just nipped. 6 The driven plate must now be centralised. To do this obtain an old gearbox primary shaft or a suitably stepped mandrel which will pass through the driven plate hub splines and locate in the flywheel spigot

6

Clutch cable — removal and refitting

1

Pull back the clutch cable and remove

73

the cable adjuster. With-

draw the cable from the trunnion in the operating arm. 2 Working inside the car disconnect the clutch cable fork end from the clutch pedal by removing the retaining split-pin and withdrawing the clevis pin. 3. Drill the heads off the two rivets securing the clutch cable support

bracket to the body with a J in (5-56 mm) diameter drill and knock out the rivets. Remove the cable, complete with bracket, from the vehicle.

Note: 7he bracket is a press fit on the clutch cable nylon bush and the cable and bracket should not be separated. 4 When refitting a new cable and bracket assembly the bracket can be rivetted to the body or alternatively particularly if the holes in the body have been enlarged excessively, the holes can be drilled out and the bracket secured with two bolts, spring washers and nuts. 5 Clean off all traces of old sealing compound from the body. Apply a coat of sealant to the mating face of the support bracket and fit the bracket to the body with the fork end of the cable inside the body. 6 Reconnect the clutch cable fork end to the clutch pedal with the clevis pin and secure with a new split-pin. 7 Thread the other end of the cable through the adjuster trunnion on the clutch operating arm and screw on the adjuster nut.

8 Adjust the clutch operating arm free movement Section 7.

7

as described

in

Clutch adjustment

bush (Fig. 5.2). 7 Tighten the cover bolts evenly and progressively and at the same time ensuring that the dummy shaft maintains a sliding fit in the driven plate hub, thus indicating that the plate is truly centralised. 8 Withdraw the centralising tool and check that the securing bolts are tightened to the specified torque. 9 Refit the gearbox and adjust the clutch adjustment as described in Section 7.

8.3 Removing the clutch thrust pad retaining clips

1 Pull back the clutch inner cable to release the adjuster nut from the trunnion on the operating arm. 2 Rotate the adjuster nut, as required, along the threaded part of the cable and then reposition the adjuster nut on the trunnion. 3 The adjustment is correct when the clutch pedal pad is level with the pad of the brake pedal and there is ¥ in (1-5 mm) free movement of the clutch operating arm at the trunnion.

8.4 The operating arm shaft is retained by lockwashers

8.8a Drive in the clutch fork retaining pins

8.8b Fitting the thrust pad retaining clip

74

Chapter 5 Clutch

1 2 3 4 5

Bracket, pedal mounting Screw Lockwasher Plain washer Nut

6

Bush, pedal

7 8 9 10 11° 712 73

Cover, pedal pad Clevis pin, brake pedal Pedal, brake Washer Split-pin Spring Nut

Fig. 5.4 Exploded view of pedal assembly — Robin (Sec 9) adjuster 25 Adjuster, clutch cable 26 Pedal Bush, retaining, throttle pedal 19 Clevis pin, clutch pedal 28 Bush, throttle pedal 20 Pedal, clutch 29 Screw, pedal stop 14 15 16 17 78

Switch stop light Split-pin, pivot Pivot, pedals Washer Split-pin

21

Abutment bracket, clutch cable Rivet Clutch cable Trunnion, clutch cable

22 23 24

32 33 Adjustment screw 34 Bracket, adjustment

1 A badly worn clutch release pad is indicated by clutch squeal and must be renewed. It is also a good policy to renew the release pad if it shows any signs of wear whenever the gearbox is removed. 2 Remove the gearbox as described in Chapter 6. 3 Remove the two retaining clips to release the thrust pad from the operating fork (photo). 4 Remove the lockwashers and plain washers retaining the operating arm shaft in the gearbox casing (photo). 5 Using a suitable pin punch drive out the pins retaining the clutch fork. Remove the right-hand pin first.

Withdraw

the

operating

arm

shaft

from

the

bellhousing

and

remove the operating fork (photo).

7

Washer

39 40

Split-pin Spring, throttle return

41

Bracket, return spring

Nut, stop screw Cable, throttle Grommet, throttle cable

8 Clutch operating arm, fork and release thrust pad — removal and refitting

6

35 Washer 36 Nut 37 Trunnion, cable-to-carburettor

Examine the thrust pad for wear and scoring. Renew the pad if the

thrust face is worn below a depth of 0-060 in (1.588 mm). 8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Always use new

retaining clips, pins and lockwashers (photos). ar ee 9 Pedal assembly — removal, dismantling, reassembly and refitting a a et 1 The pedal assemblies fitted to the Robin and Kitten models are

44

Cable, throttle, early vehicles Trunnion, cable-to-carburettor, early vehicles Bracket, cable abutment, early vehicles

slightly different, but removal and dismantling procedure is the same for both vehicles, refer to Figs. 5.4 and 5.5. 2 Disconnect the clutch cable fork end from the clutch pedal by removing the split-pin and withdrawing the clevis pin. 3 Disconnect the throttle cable end nipple from the lug on the throttle pedal, then release the plastic fastener on the outer cable from the pedal mounting bracket and withdraw the throttle cable. 4 Prise out the rubber grommet, located over the bracket master cylinder push rod fork end, to obtain access to the clevis pin securing the pushrod fork end to the brake pedal. Remove the split-pin and washer. 5 From inside the vehicle remove the clevis pin and disconnect the pushrod fork end from the brake pedal.

6 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery negative terminal,then disconnect the stop light switch leads. 7 Undo the nuts and bolts securing the pedal bracket assembly and the brake master cylinder to the body, then carefully pull the pedal assembly away from the body clear of the two captive bolts on the pedal mounting bracket and the master cylinder. 8 Remove the pedal assembly, guiding it past the steering column. 9 Unhook the brake pedal return spring from the pedal and mounting bracket assembly. 10 Remove the split-pin from the brake pedal end of the pivot shaft and drive out the shaft from the bracket side members, collecting the brake and clutch pedals as the shaft is removed. 11 Rotate the throttle pedal shaft nylon bushes so that they are

75

Fig. 5.5 Exploded view of pedal assembly — Kitten (Sec 9) 1 2 3. 4 5 6 7. 8

Bracket, pedal mounting Nut Lockwasher Plain washer Bolt Lockwasher Plain washer Bolt

9 Lockwasher 70 Nut

11

12 13 714 15 16

17 18

Shaft, brake and clutch pedal pivot Split-pin Clutch pedal assembly Bush, clutch pedal pivot Pedal cover, rubber Clevis pin, clutch pedal Split-pin Brake pedal assembly

19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

Bush, brake pedal pivot Pedal cover, rubber

28 Locknut 29 Bolt clutch pedal adjusting

Spring, brake pedal return

30 Locknut

Clevis pin, brake pedal Split-pin Clutch cable assembly Throttle pedal

31 32 33 34

Locknut stop light switch Throttle cable assembly Footrest bracket, clutch Bolt, footrest securing

Pivot moulding throttle pedal

35 Lockwasher

Bolt throttle pedal adjusting

36

Washer

76

Chapter 5 Clutch

positioned in line with the square apertures in the mounting bracket side members, then prise out the bushes and remove the throttle pedal. 12 Examine the two bushes in the clutch and brake pedals for wear and renew, if necessary. The bushes can be driven out with a suitable

drift. 13 Unscrew the two locknuts and remove the brake stop light switch from the pedal mounting bracket. 14 Examine the parts for wear and damage and renew as necessary. 15 Reassembly and refitting of the pedal assembly is the reverse of the removal sequence. Lightly grease all the pivot points. Always fit new split-pins. Adjust the position of the stop light switch so that the

light is out when the brake pedal is at rest and comes on with the first movement of the brake pedal. 16 Check and, if necessary, adjust the clutch cable as described in Section 7.

10

Fault diagnosis — general

13

There are four main faults to which the clutch and release mechanism are prone. They may occur by themselves or in conjunction with any of the other faults. They are clutch squeal, slip, spin and judder.

11

Clutch squeal — diagnosis and remedy

1 If, on depressing the clutch pedal to take up the drive or when changing gear, the clutch squeals, this is a sure indication of a badly worn clutch release pad which will have to be renewed.

2

As well as regular wear due to normal

release pad is much

accentuated

darkening the linings. Excessive oil on the clutch will burn off leaving a carbon deposit which can cause quite bad slip, or fierceness, spin and judder. 4 If clutch slip is suspected, and confirmation of this condition is “required, there are several tests which can be made. 5 With the engine in second or third gear and pulling lightly up a moderate incline, sudden depression of the accelerator pedal may cause the engine to increase its speed without any increase in road speed. Easing off on the accelerator will then give a definite drop in engine speed without the car slowing. 6 In extreme cases of clutch slip the engine will race under normal acceleration conditions. 7 If slip is due to oil or grease on the linings a temporary cure can sometimes be effected by squirting carbon tetrachloride into the clutch. The permanent cure is, of course, to renew the clutch driven plate and trace and rectify the oil leak.

use, wear of the clutch

if the clutch is ridden, or held down

for long periods in gear, with the engine running. To minimise this wear the car should always be taken out gear when the engine is running and the car stationary. 3 The clutch release pad is not an expensive item, but difficult to get

1 Clutch spin is a condition which occurs when the release arm travel is excessive, there is an obstruction in the clutch either on the primary gear splines or in the operating lever itself, or the oil may have partially burnt off the clutch linings and have left a resinous deposit which is causing the clutch disc to stick to the pressure plate or flywheel. 2 The reason for clutch spin is that due to any, or a combination of, the faults just listed, the clutch pressure plate is not completely freeing from the centre plate even with the clutch pedal fully depressed. 3 If clutch spin is suspected, the condition would be confirmed by extreme difficulty in engaging first gear from rest, difficulty in changing gear, and very sudden take-up of the clutch drive at the fully depressed end of the clutch pedal travel as the clutch is released. 4 Check that the clutch is correctly adjusted and if in order then the fault lies internally in the clutch. It will then be necessary to remove the clutch for examination and to check the gearbox primary shaft.

14 12

Clutch slip — diagnosis and remedy

1 Clutch slip is a self evident condition which occurs when the clutch friction plate is badly worn, oil or grease have got onto the flywheel or pressure plate faces, or the pressure plate itself is faulty. 2 The reason for clutch slip is that, due to one of the faults listed before, there is either insufficient pressure from the pressure plate, or insufficient friction from the friction plate to ensure solid drive. 3 If small amounts of oil get onto the clutch, they will be burnt off under the heat of clutch engagement, and in the process, gradually

Clutch spin — diagnosis and remedy

Clutch judder — diagnosis and remedy

1 Clutch judder is a self evident condition which occurs when the gearbox or engine mountings are loose or too flexible, when there is oil on the faces of the clutch friction plate, or when the clutch pressure plate has been incorrectly adjusted during assembly. 2 The reason for clutch judder is that due to one of the faults just listed, the clutch pressure plate is not freeing smoothly from the friction disc and is snatching. 3 Clutch judder normally occurs when the clutch pedal is released in

first or reverse gears, and the whole car shudders as it moves forwards or backwards.

Chapter

6 Gearbox

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Gearbox — removal and refitting

.............. 0.00 e eee,

12 4 5 11

3

General description

Laygear assembly — bearing renewal

8

Mainshaft — dismantling Mainshaft — reassembly

6 7.

Maintenancemciar cra Acwa wysisia ccs cete eeeyot oan ot Primary shaft — dismantling and reassembly Rear cover— dismantling and reassembly

ictenacs 6

ere

2

9 0

Specifications

Type

MCE

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BG Ua ela hn

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Gear ratios iss la ie

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1.125 pints (0.64 litres)

2

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Torque wrench settings

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Nm

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20 to 25 15to 18 50

28 to 34 21 to 25 69

1

2 The gearbox should be drained and refilled with fresh oil every 12 000 miles (20 000 km).

General description

The gearbox provides four forward speeds and a reverse. Synchromesh is fitted to all forward gears. The gear lever is mounted on the gearbox top cover and engages directly on the selector forks. A cutaway view of the gearbox fitted to the Kitten models is shown in Fig. 6.1. Robin models are fitted with the same gearbox, with a straight gear lever.

2

Maintenance

1

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) check that the oil in the gearbox is

up to the bottom of the oil filler/level plug hole. Top-up if necessary with the specified oil.

3

Gearbox — removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the leads from the battery. 2 Drain the radiator, retaining the coolant if it contains antifreeze. Disconnect the radiator hoses. 3 Remove the air cleaner from the carburettor. Remove the distributor cap and HT leads. Disconnect the coil-to-distributor LT lead. 4 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. 5 Disconnect the throttle cable at the carburettor then release the throttle return spring, slacken the carburettor left-hand securing nut and push the spring anchor bracket towards the engine so that it will clear the bulkhead when the engine is lowered slightly. On Robin 850

78 Fig. 6.1 Cutaway view of gearbox (Sec 1)

Fig. 6.2 Location of gearbox filler/level plug (1) and drain plug (2) (Sec 2)

Chapter 6 Gearbox

1 2 3 4

Gearbox case Drain plug Washer Blanking plug

5 6

Stud Stud

7

Spring washer

8 9

WNut Bolt

70 Bolt 11 Front cover assembly

12 Seal, front cover 13 Gasket

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Spring washer Nut Gear lever Gearlever knob

Locknut Spring, lever retaining

31 32 33 34 35

Bush, speedo driven gear Grub screw Ball, gear thrust Oil seal Selector shaft assembly, first and second Pin Selector shaft assembly, third and fourth Pin

Cap

36

Seat Clip

37

Top cover Gasket, top cover

38 39 Selector shaft assembly,

Screw Spring washer

14 Stud

29 Filler/level plug

15 Stud

30

Washer

models remove the two nuts securing the manifold adaptor to the studs on the inlet manifold and remove the adaptor and carburettor as an assembly. This is necessary to allow the engine/gearbox assembly to be lowered enough to clear the engine bulkhead so that the gearbox rear support clears the chassis mounting bracket. 6 Robin models: Disconnect the heater hose from the heater assembly water valve. Kitten mode/s: Remove the heater blower to bulkhead flexible ducting tube. 7 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the knob from the gear lever. 8 Remove the centre console as described in Chapter 12, Section

Za. 9 Robin models: Unscrew the eight securing screws and remove the engine rear access panel. 10 Prise the spring retaining clip out of the gear lever balljoint cap on the top cover of the gearbox, working through the gear lever gaiter aperture.

11 Ifa pit or ramp is not available, raise the vehicle and support it all round on axle stands or other suitable supports. The vehicle should be

reverse Pin Ball

40 41 42 Interlock pin

79

43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

Fouling pin Ball Spring Rear cover Seal Gasket Screw Bolt Spring washer Mounting rubber

53 Support bracket 54 55 56 57 58

Washer Nut Set screw Spring washer Nut

raised at least 2 ft (60 cm) to provide a good working height underneath it.

12 Kitten models: Remove the bolt (2 each side) securing the anti-roll bar to the chassis on both sides then lower the anti-roll bar away from the chassis. 13 Working under the vehicle remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 10, Section 16. 14 Unscrew the knurled collar securing the speedometer cable to the gearbox and withdraw the cable from the gearbox. 15 Unscrew the clutch cable adjuster then disconnect the cable from the operating arm. Remove the locknut and adjuster nut, withdraw the cable from the trunnion and pull the clutch cable outer sleeve from the engine back plate. 16 Remove the propeller shaft as described in Chapter 7, Section 3. 17 Position a jack under the engine sump and using a block of wood between the jack and sump as a load spreader take the weight of the engine and gearbox assembly. 18 Remove the bolts and nuts securing the gearbox support bracket

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Chapter 6 Gearbox to the chassis mounting bracket. 19 Carefully lower the jack under the engine sump, the engine and gearbox assembly will tilt forward on the engine flexible front mountings, until the gearbox support bracket is clear of the chassis mounting bracket. 20 Remove the two bolts and six nuts securing the gearbox to the engine, then with the help of an assistant withdraw the gearbox from the engine, taking care not to let the weight of the gearbox hang on the primary shaft. When the gearbox primary shaft is clear of the clutch assembly lower the gearbox and remove it from underneath the vehicle. 21 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. If the clutch has been removed ensure that the clutch driven plate is centralised. When fitting the gearbox to the engine it may be necessary to have an assistant turn the engine slightly so that the splines on the primary

shaft will engage with the splines of the clutch driven plate.

4

Gearbox -— dismantling

1 Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into a suitable container. 2 Remove the clutch operating arm, fork and release thrust pad as described in Chapter 5, Section 8. 3 Unscrew the eight screws and remove the gearbox top cover, gasket, selector springs and balls, see Fig. 6.3. 4 Unscrew the seven nuts securing the front cover then remove the cover and gasket. 5 Using a pin punch of small diameter drive out the pins securing the third/fourth selector fork and lug on the selector shaft and then withdraw the selector shaft through the bellhousing. Collect the selector lug as the shaft is withdrawn. 6 Remove the first/second selector fork and lug in the same way. When withdrawing the selector shaft remove the interlock pin from the end of the shaft. 7 Drive out the pin securing the reverse selector lug on the selector shaft, then withdraw the selector shaft through the bellhousing and lift out the reverse selector lug. Remove the selector forks from the gearbox. 8 Remove the two interlock balls from the cross-drilling in the casing selector shaft bores at the bellhousing end. The balls will fall out if the gearbox is tilted sideways. 9 Push the layshaft from the rear and withdraw it from the front of the gearbox. The laygear assembly will rest in the bottom of the casing. 10 Remove the six bolts securing the rear cover to the casing. 11 Carefully withdraw the rear cover and mainshaft assembly. Take care the front or rear synchro sleeves do not slide off the synchro-hubs (Fig. 6.4). 12 The primary gear shaft can now be tapped out of the casing with a suitable drift. 13 Remove the laygear assembly and thrust washers from the gearbox. 14 Remove the reverse gear shaft rhrough the rear of the casing and lift out the reverse gear. 15 Mount the rear cover and mainshaft assembly in a vice. Bend back the locking tab of the lockplate, unscrew the coupling flange securing

7.1 Second speed gear and baulk ring fitted on the mainshaft

81

nut and remove the lockplate and flange. 16 Remove the rear cover from the mainshaft assembly.

5

Gearbox — inspection

1. Thoroughly clean the gearbox casing and examine it for damage. Examine the speedometer drive bush for wear and renew, if necessary. 2 Carefully clean and then examine all the component parts for general wear, distortion, slackness of fit and damage to machined faces and threads. 3 Examine the gears for excessive wear and chipping of the teeth. Renew them as necessary. 4 Examine the layshaft for signs of wear or scoring, due to worn needle roller bearings, and renew if necessary. Renew the thrust washers fitted at each end of the laygear. 5 Examine the synchroniser assemblies and if worn they should be renewed as an assembly. The synchroniser rings are bound to be badly worn and it is false economy not to renew them. 6 Examine the condition of the two ball bearings, one on the primary shaft and one on the mainshaft. Check them for noisy operation, looseness between the inner and outer races and for general wear. Normally they should be renewed on a gearbox that is being overhauled. 7 Examine the ends of the selector forks where they rub against the grooves in the synchroniser sleeves. If possible compare the selector forks with new units to help determine how much wear has taken place. If they show considerable wear they must be renewed. 8 Always fit new oil seals when reassembling the gearbox. Do not forget the speedometer drive oil seal.

6

Mainshaft-— dismantling

1 Refer-to Fig. 6.4 and remove the first speed gear and gear bush, complete with the baulk ring. 2 Wrap a piece of cloth round the first/second gear synchromesh assembly and slide the synchro sleeve off the hub. The cloth will prevent the three sets of balls, blocks, springs and plungers from springing out and possibly getting lost. Collect them from the cloth. 3. Remove the third/fourth selector sleeve in the same way. 4 Using a pair of suitable circlip pliers remove the circlip from the spigot end of the mainshaft. 5 Press the third/fourth synchro-hub off the mainshaft and remove the baulk ring, Woodruff key and third speed gear. 6 Remove the first speed gear bush key, then press the first/second synchro-hub off the mainshaft and remove the second speed baulk

ring. Remove the Woodruff key and slide the thrust washer and second ~ speed gear off the mainshaft. 8 Clean and examine all the mainshaft components for wear as described in Section 5.

7 1.

Mainshaft — reassembly Fit the second speed gear and baulk ring on the mainshaft, then

7.2a Slide on the third speed gear and baulk ring...

7.2b ... then fit the third/fourth synchro-hub Woodruff key

7.3a Locate the third/fourth synchro-hub on

7.3b Fitting the third/fourth synchro-hub

7.4 Insert the third/fourth synchro springs and

the Woodruff key

retaining circlip

plungers

7.5a Fit the thrust blocks ...

7.5b ... and balls in position ...

7.5c ... then slide on the synchro sleeve

7.7 The first/second sleeve is fitted with the teeth towards the front end of the mainshaft

7.8 Inserting the first speed gear bush in the first speed gear

wi

7.9 The first speed gear bush key locates inthe

7.10 Slide the first speed gear and bush

first speed gear

assembly onto the mainshaft

8.2a The laygear cluster

8.2b The needle bearings are pressed into each end of the laygear cluster bore

9.5 Primary shaft with bearing and oil seal fitted

9.6 The needle roller bearing is fitted in the recess in the rear of the primary shaft

10.3 Removing the speedometer driven gear bush securing grubscrew

10.6 Fitting the rear bearing retaining circlip

11.2 The reverse idler gear is fitted with the selector groove to the rear

®

11.3a Use a smear of grease to retain the two

11.3b Place the laygear assembly in the

11.3c A long thin screwdriver can be used to

layshaft thrust washers in position

bottom of the casing

prevent the layshaft thrust washers from

11.4 Fitting the primary shaft assembly

11.5a Fit the rear cover onto the mainshaft assembly ...

dropping out of position

eS

11.5b ... then position a new gasket on the cover

se

a

:

11.6a Fit the baulk ring on the primary shaft...

11.9 Slide the speedometer drive gear on to the mainshaft ...

11.6b ... then insert the mainshaft assembly into the gearbox

11.7 Fitting the layshaft

11.11a Position the lockplate on the coupling flange ...

seal

J

11.11b ... and fit the flange onto the mainshaft

11.15

...

11.12 Tightening the coupling flange securing nut

and the interlock

second speed selector shaft

pin in the first/

11.14 Inserting the interlock balls in the casing

11.16 Fitting the first/second gear selector shaft

11.17 Fit the first/second gear selector lug securing pin...

11.18 ... and then the first/second selector fork securing pin

11.19a Slide the third/fourth selector shaft through the selector fork and lug ...

11.19b ... and secure in position with retaining pins

11.20a Place a new front cover gasket in position on the front of the gearbox ...

11.20b ... and then fit the front cover

11.22a Insert the selector shaft locating balls and...

11.23b ... and then the top cover

11.24 Checking the selection of the gears

Chapter 6 Gearbox

86

GIaEREE

i is

the thrust washer, ensuring that the thrust face of the washer toward the second speed gear (photo). Slide the third speed gear and baulk ring on to the mainshaft 2 (photo), then fit the Woodruff key that locates the third/fourth synchrohub on the mainshaft (photo). 3. Fit the third/fourth synchro-hub so that it is located on the Woodruff key and then press it into position (photo), Fit the retaining

circlip (photo).

:

4 Insert the springs and plungers in the third/fourth synchro-hub (photo). a 5 Fit the thrust blocks and balls, then holding them in slide the synchro sleeve on to its synchro-hub (photos). Slide the synchro sleeve on to the hub until it clicks into position. 6 Do not push it too far or the synchro thrust blocks and balls will be

released (photo). 7

Assemble

the springs, plungers,

thrust blocks and balls to the

first/second synchro-hub and slide the first/second synchro sleeve on

to the synchro-hub with the teeth of the synchro sleeve facing towards the front end of the mainshaft (photo). 8 Lubricate the first speed gear bush on its outside diameter and flange inner face with ‘Moly Grease 799’ and then insert the bush in

the first speed gear (photo). 9 Insert the first speed gear bush key in its location in the first/second synchro-hub (photo). 10 Fit the baulk ring on the first speed gear then slide the gear and bush assembly onto the mainshaft (photo). Rotate the first speed gear bush as necessary to locate it on the bush key. Note: When handling the assembled mainshaft take care not to slide the synchro sleeves off the synchro-hubs and release the balls and thrust blocks.

6

Tap the rear bearing into the cover and then fit the retaining circlip

(photo).

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11 Gearbox — reassembly PP SS CT Ns ATS a ESP

I

ae

I

Refer to Figs. 6.3 and 6.4 Lubricate all the components lightly with the specified gear oil as 1 they are fitted in the casing. Fit the reverse idler gear and shaft in the casing so that the 2 selector groove on the gear is to the rear (photo). 3. Fit the layshaft thrust washers in the casing, use a little grease to retain them in position (photo), and then place the laygear assembly in the bottom of the casing (photo). A long thin screwdriver or rod passed through the casing and laygear assembly will prevent the thrust washers from dropping into the bottom of the casing (photo). Insert the primary shaft assembly (See Section 9) through the 4 bellhousing (photo). Using a soft faced hammer tap the bearing into its location until the bearing retaining ring is flush with the casing. Fit the rear cover onto the mainshaft assembly, then position a 5 new gasket on the rear cover (photos). Fit the baulk ring on the primary shaft then locate the mainshaft 6 and rear cover assembly (photos) in the casing. Leave a 0-25 in (6 mm) gap between the rear cover and gearbox face to allow rotary movement when positioning the layshaft. Position the gearbox on its top face and then feed the layshaft 7 through the thrust washers and laygear assembly until it locates in its bore in the rear end of the casing. Position the tang on the front end of the layshaft so that it will locate in horizontal slot in the front cover

(photo). 8

Ensure that the tang on the end of the reverse idler shaft is aligned

with the slot in the rear cover, then tap the rear cover fully home.

8 Laygear assembly — bearing renewal ee ees SS 1 Draw out the defective bearings using a suitable drift. 2 Fit the new bearings, using a suitable drift to press the bearings into the laygear cluster (photos). Note: The hardened square end of the bearing must face the drift used to press in the bearing. If the pressure is applied to the rolled end of the bearing the bearing cage will be distorted and result in bearing failure.

Fit

the rear cover securing bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. Fit the speedometer drive gear on the mainshaft (photo). 9 10 Carefully tap the coupling flange oil seal into its seating in the rear casing (photo). 11 Postion the coupling flange nut lockplate in the coupling flange

(photo) and then fit the flange to the mainshaft (photo). 12 Fit the coupling flange securing nut and tighten it to the specified torque. To hold the flange while tightening the nut fit two bolts in the

flange and lock it with a screwdriver (photo). Bend over the tab of the 9

Primary shaft — dismantling and reassembly

1 Remove the gearbox front sea! from the primary shaft. 2 Remove the circlip retaining the front bearing on the primary shaft, and withdraw the spacer and front bearing. 3. Withdraw the needle roller bearing from the recess in the rear of the primary shaft. 4 Clean and inspect the primary shaft and components as described in Section 5. 5 To reassemble fit the front bearing, spacer and retaining circlip then carefully slide the oil seal on to the shaft ensuring it does not get damaged by the primary shaft splines. Fit the seal with the lip facing the front of the shaft and check that it is seated against the shoulder on which the front bearing retaining circlip is located, not against the circlip (photo). 6 Fit the needle roller bearing in the rear of the shaft (photo).

aT

10

Rear cover — dismantling and reassembly

SS a Ee 1 Using circlip pliers remove the rear bearing retaining circlip and press out the rear bearing and speedometer driven gear. 2 Remove the rear cover oil seal taking care not to damage the seating when prising the seal out. 3 Unscrew the grubscrew securing

lockplate to lock the mainshaft coupling flange nut. 13 Position the reverse selector fork in the reverse idler gear groove, then slide the reverse selector shaft into the casing and through the selector fork. Line up the hole in the shaft and fork and drive in the

retaining pin. 14 Insert the two interlock balls in the cross-drilling in the bellhousing. Use grease to retain them in position (photo). 15 Insert the interlock pin in the first/second selector shaft (photo). 16 Locate the first/second and third/fourth selector forks in position in the gearbox then insert the first/second gear selector shaft through the bellhousing, selector lug and fork (photo). Ensure that the interlock pin is in position in the selector shaft. 17

Rotate the selector shaft to line up the holes in the selector shaft

and lug then insert the pin and drive it home (photo). The horizontal pin securing the selector lug rust be fitted before pinning the selector fork to the shaft. 18 Line up the holes in the first/second gear selector shaft and fork, then drive in the retaining pin (photo). 19 Slide the third/fourth gear selector shaft through the bellhousing, selector fork and lug (photo), then fit the retaining pins (photo). 20 Fit a new front cover gasket over the studs on the front end of the gearbox (photo), ensure that the oil seal is correctly seated on the primary shaft (refer to Section 9), and then fit the front cover (photo). 21 Fit the seven front cover securing nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. 22 Insert the selector shaft locating balls and springs in the casing

(photos). the speedometer

driven

gear

bush in the rear cover (photo) then remove the driven gear bush, driven

23 Position a new gasket on top of the casing and fit the top cover (photos). Fit the eight top cover securing bolts and tighten them to the

gear and oil seal. 4 Examine the rear bearing, speedometer drive gears and bush for wear and renew if necessary. Discard the oil seals.

specified torque. 24 Temporarily fit the gear selector lever and check that all the gears

5

25 Fit the clutch operating fork and lever assembly as described in Chapter 5, Section 8.

Fit the speedometer

driven gear bush, gear and oil seal in the

cover and then tighten the securing grubscrew.

can be selected (photo).

Chapter 6 Gearbox on 12

pe eR

a

87 ee

Fault diagnosis — gearbox

Symptom

Reason/s

rr

Weak or ineffective synchromesh

Jumps out of gear

Synchronising cones worn, split or damaged Baulk ring synchromesh dogs worn, or damaged

Broken selector shaft spring Gearbox coupling dogs badly worn Selector shaft badly worn

Excessive noise

Incorrect grade of oil in gearbox or oil level too low Bush or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gear teeth excessively worn or damaged

Layshaft thrust washers worn allowing excessive end play

Excessive difficulty in engaging gear

Clutch cable adjustment incorrect

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft Contents

Fault diagnosis — propeller shaft General description Maintemance: (cs. ois os cose cigs oti as eeu Propeller shaft — removal and refitting

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Chapter 11

Front suspension and steering

Contents

Part B : Kitten

Part A : Robin Fault diagnosis — suspension and steering ........++.++--5 Front hub and bearings — removal and refitting ..........-.. Front suspension — removal and refitting ..........--..-+. General description. 9. 0:25. -:t.0 0 seen ulead et ne ee

12 4 3 1

King-pins and bushes— removal ....--++ +eeee sees sees Maintenance.