Haynes Honda Civic & CRV-V Automotive Repair Manual 1563925524, 9781563925528

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Honda Civic &

CR-V

Honda Civic 2001 thru 2004 Honda CR-V ^ 2002 thru 2004

JEI 11

H B

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

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1

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2015

https://archive.org/details/hondaciviccrvvauOOmadd

Honda Civic

& CR-V

Automotive Repair

Manual by Robert Maddox and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

Honda Civic - 2001 through 2004 Honda CR-V - 2002 through 2004 Does not include information

specific to hybrid

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park 91320 USA

California

Inc

models

Acknowledgements Wiring diagrams provided exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc.

by Valley Forge Technical Information Services. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Mike Stubblefield and John

Weg-

mann.

©

Inc. 2004 & Co. Ltd.

Haynes North America, With permission from J.H. Haynes

A book

in

the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed

in

the U.S.A.

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

All rights in

ISBN

1

56392 552 4

Library of

Congress Control Number 2004114656

made to ensure that the information in this manual can be accepted by the authors or publishers for damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the

While every attempt is

correct,

loss,

no

information given.

04-320

is

liability

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the

Honda

Civic

and CR-V

Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting

Jacking and towing Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents

Conversion factors Safety

first!

Automotive chemicals and lubricants Troubleshooting

Chapter

facilities

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7

0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17 0-18 0-19

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

Part

1-1

A

Single overhead camshaft

(SOHC) engines

Part B Double overhead camshaft (DOHC) engines

2A-1

Chapter 2

Chapter 2

Part

2B-1

C

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel

and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Part Manual transaxle

A

Chapter 7

B

Chapter 7

Part

6-1

7A-1

Automatic transaxles

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 9-1

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

10-1

1

11-1

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-19

Index

IND-1

0-6

1

3 4

Vehicle identification

numbers

Modifications

are

unpublicized process

in

a

continuing

On

and

vehicle manufactur-

ual the

ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual

vehicle identify

numbers are essential the component required.

*

This very important identification

num-

ber is stamped on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration).

can also be found on the certification label located on the driver’s side door post. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body

The vehicle certification label is located on the end of the driver’s door

The Vehicle

Identification

top of the dash

Number

(visible

style.

(VIN) is located on a plate on through the windshield)

man-

2002

2003 2004 in

Number (VIN)

this

2001 2

to correctly

Vehicle Identification

It

the models covered by model year codes* are:

The model year code

is

the tenth character

the VIN.

Certification label The driver’s

certification label

door post (see

contains the

name

is

attached to the

illustration).

The

plate

of the manufacturer, the

month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine identification numbers The engine on the

serial

number can be found

front side of the engine (see illustra-

tion).

The engine number can be found stamped on the side of the

engine block

0-7

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of

many

two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to

buy materials and parts needed

vehicle maintenance such as

oil,

for general

grease,

fil-

spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint,

is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed

ters,

components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust sys-

charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

parts

tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

bulbs, etc.

They also usually

sell

tools

and

general accessories, have convenient hours,

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: If the vehicle is covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers still

available and,

if

possible, take the old parts

along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

Most automotive machine shops can perform

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

this task,

as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or

/

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the

Grade

all damaged nuts and bolts ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability

1

Grade 5

or 2

plastic.

' \

Grade 8

habit of replacing

with

new

and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS;

Grade

Identification

Grade

Hex Nut Grade 5

v

©

0 -

ra. y-. '

'C

©

"

#

24.2 Tools required for changing

spark plugs 1

2

3

Spark plug socket - This will have special padding inside to protect the spark plug porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, use of this tool is the best way to ensure that the plugs are tightened properly

Ratchet - Standard hand tool to plug socket

5

fit

the

Depending on model and may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for Extension

-

accessories, you

to

away from Warning: Wear eye pro-

or foreign material

the spark plug with the chart

pound

the ignition coils (see Chap-

compressed

Compare

of the engine.

ter 5).

blow any Refer to illustrations 24.2, 24.5a, 24.5b, 24.9, 1 la and 24. 1 1b

10

on the inside back cover of this manual to get an indication of the overall running condition

4

just fine.

8

24.

tration).

in

Chapter or in your owner’s manual. 4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. During this cooling off time, each of the new spark plugs can be inspected for defects and the gaps can be checked. The gap is checked by inserting the 5 proper thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustrations). The gap between the electrodes should be as listed in this Chapter’s Specifications or in your owner’s manual. Caution: The manufacturer recommends against adjusting the gap on platinum-tipped spark plugs; if the gap is out of specification, replace the plug. Also, at this time check for cracks in the spark plug body (if any are found, the plug must not be used). Cover the fender to prevent damage to 6 the paint. Fender covers are available from auto parts stores but an old blanket will work 7

through the spark plug hole as the spark plug is removed. Place the spark plug socket over the 9 plug and remove it from the engine by turning it in a counterclockwise direction (see illus-

your engine

is

included

Chapter

24.5a Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a tapered thickness gauge when checking the gap - slide the gap and turn it until the the gap, then read the thickness on the gauge - do not force the tool into the gap or use the tapered portion to widen a gap thin side into the

gauge

just

fills

fingers, then tighten

it

with a torque

wrench

(if

a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place (see illustration). The hose will available) or the ratchet.

grip the plug well start to slip

if

the hole

in

It

enough

is

to turn

it,

but

will

the plug begins to cross-thread -

this

will

prevent

damaged

threads and the accompanying repair costs. 12 Attach the coil to the new spark plug using a twisting motion until it is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug. Tighten the

mounting bolts securely. 13 Repeat the procedure

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

24.5b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, using the adjuster hole in the tool, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode

for the

remaining

Automatic transaxle

fluid

change km]

raised position, wrenches, drain

pan capable

of holding at least four quarts,

newspapers

and clean rags. The fluid should be drained immediately after the vehicle has been driven. Hot fluid is more effective than cold fluid at removing built up sediment. Warning: Fluid temperature can exceed 350-degrees F in a hot

4

5

Wear protective the

fluid, raise

been driven

to

the front of the vehi-

and support it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! Place the drain pan under the drain plug 6 the transaxle pan and remove the drain plug (see illustration). Be sure the drain pan is in

Refer to 1

illustration

25.6

The automatic transaxle

position, as fluid will

force. fluid

should be

Once

the

fluid is

drain plug securely.

24.11b A length of snug-fitting rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs

24.11a Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads

gloves.

After the vehicle has

in

or 72 months)

to

Other tools necessary for this job 3 include jackstands to support the vehicle in a

warm up

(every 120,000 miles [72,400

Use a ratchet and extension remove the spark plugs

this Chapter).

cle

25

24.9

changed at the recommended intervals. Before beginning work, purchase the 2 specified transmission fluid (see Recommended lubricants and fluids at the front of

transaxle.

spark plugs.

1-23

come

out with

some

drained, reinstall the

Measure the amount

of

fluid

drained and write

reference

7

when

Lower the

down

this figure for

refilling.

vehicle.

With the engine off, add new fluid to the 8 transaxle through the dipstick tube (see Recommended lubricants and fluids for the rec-

ommended dure by

fluid type).

initially

Begin the

refill

proce-

adding 1/3 of the amount

drained. Then, with the engine running, 1

add

/2-pint at a time (cycling the shifter through

each gear position between additions)

25.6 Location of the transaxle fluid drain plug

until

1-24

Chapter

the level

9

If

once

is

correct on the dipstick.

4

desired, repeat Steps 5 through 8

to flush

any contaminated

fluid

from the

The old

drained from the transaxle cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Check with your local auto parts store, disposal facility or environmental agency to see if they will accept the 011 for recycling. After the oil has cooled it can be drained into a container (capped plastic

topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport to one of these disposal sites. Don’t dispose of the oil by pouring on the ground it

down a

change (every 120,000 miles [72,400 km] Manual transaxle

fluid

oil

jugs,

or

26

or 72 months)

torque converter.

10

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

drain!

Raise the vehicle and support it securely 1 on jackstands in a level position. Warning: Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! Remove the fill plug, followed by the 2

Fill

the transaxle with the

lubricant (see fluids at

Recommended

recommended lubricants and

the beginning of this Chapter).

The old

oil drained from the transaxle cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Check with your local

5

auto parts store, disposal facility or environmental agency to see if they will accept the oil for recycling. After the oil has cooled it can be drained into a container (capped plastic

topped

drain plug. Drain the fluid into a suitable con-

jugs,

capable of holding at least four quarts. After the fluid has completely drained, 3 install the drain plug and tighten it to the torque given in this Chapter’s Specifications.

transport to one of these disposal sites. Don’t

tainer

bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for

dispose of the oil by pouring down a drain!

or

it

on the ground

7 1

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part A Single overhead camshaft (SOHC) engines Contents Section

Camshaft

-

removal, inspection and installation

CHECK ENGINE

light

Crankshaft pulley and front Cylinder head

-

See Chapter 6

on oil

removal and

seal

-

replacement

installation

Engine mounts - check and replacement Exhaust manifold - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation General information Intake manifold - removal and installation Oil pan - removal and installation

Section Oil

1

pump

-

Rear main

removal, inspection and installation oil

seal

-

10

Repair operations possible with the engine

12

Rocker arm assembly - removal, inspection and installation Timing belt and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating Valve cover - removal and installation VTEC system - description and component checks

1

6

15 1

5 13

14 16 2 8

replacement in

the vehicle

9 3 4 7

Specifications

General -3-4-2

Firing order

1

Bore

2.95 inches (74.98

Stroke

3.72 inches (94.40

Displacement Oil pressure

101.7 cubic inches (1.7

See Chapter 2C

Valve adjustment

See Chapter

®©®o

mm) mm) liters)

Front

I

1

|