Haynes Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Automotive Repair Manual [30010] 1563921324, 9781563921322

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Dodge Caravan Plymouth Voyager &

Chrysler Town & Country

Automotive

Repair

Manual by Curt Choate, Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Dodge Caravan/Mini Ram Van, Plymouth Voyager, and Chrysler Town and Country 1984 through 1995 Does not include four-wheel drive information

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PAESoS ons MEMBER MOIS Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

that Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section

Using the manual

number. Cross references given without use

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

of the word

“Chapter”

apply to Sections

and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.

Even though we

have prepared this

manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the

procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Acknowledgements We are grateful to the Chrysler Corporation for assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Robert Maddox, Larry Warren and Doug Nelson.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1992, 1993, 1994 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writ-

ing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 132 4 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 94-79927 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 98-384

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town and Country

0-2

Buying parts

0-5

Vehicle identification numbers Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-4 0-5 0-7 0-12 0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter2

PartA

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

Chapter 2

Chapter2

2B-1

PartC

3.0L V6 engine

2C-1

PartD

3.3L and 3.8L V6 engines

Chapter2

2A-1

PartB

2.6L four-cylinder engine

Chapter2

1-1

Fesenel 2D-1

*

PartE

General engine overhaul procedures

2E-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4- —_ a

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5- as

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter7

—

PartA

Manual transaxle

Chapter7

6-1

TA-

_

PartB

Automatic transaxle

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

7B-1

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10

Pe

Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-19

i

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with Dodge Caravan

Introduction to the Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town and Country Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and

Chrysler Town and Country models are front engine, front-wheel drive mini-vans. The transverse-mounted, inline fourcylinder and V6 engines used in these models are equipped with a carburetor or fuel-

injection system (both single-point and multi-

point fuel injection systems

are available).

The engine drives the front wheels through either a four- or five-speed manual or threeor four-speed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring coil springs and struts, is used at the front

wheels. A beam-type axle, with struts and leaf springs, is used at the rear wheels. The — rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist available on most models.

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Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of

two categories

- authorized

dealer parts

departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these

parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories,

have convenient

hours,

charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission

parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: lf the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts,

have

engine

and

chassis

numbers

available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle num-

bers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) This very important identification num-

ber is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard, just inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see

illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

a

5 4

en

This metal plate is located in the engine compartment, on top of the radiator support (see illustration). Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Vehicle safety certification label This label is affixed to the rear face of the driver’s door. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of pro-

duction, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

10 3456789 10111213 1415 161718192021 '

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{123

1

[1234

5678

101112

The Vehicle Identification Number is visible from outside the vehicle through the driver’s side of the windshield

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FACTORY

1123456789 10111213 1415 16 17 18 19.2021 22 23 | USE 7 18 19 2021 2223 [123 567 91011 14

2

SVAN, PLATE LOCATION

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Body code plate

LOCATION OF E.1.N. ON ENGINE BLOCK

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141516

1415 16 678910111213

18 19 20 21 22 23 18 19 20 21 22 23

Typical body code plate The body code plate is located in the engine compartment, on top of the radiator support

Location of the engine identification number on 2.2L and 2.5L engines

Vehicle identification numbers

LOCATION OF E.I.N.'/

NGINE BLOCK | H SERIAL NO.

[3

Location of the engine identification number on 2.6L and 3.0L engines

T.I.N. LOCATION

| Pass Car (PC) Truck (T)

1231-00.H HAYNES

Location of the engine identification and serial number on the

Transaxle number locations

3.3L and 3.8L engines

Engine Identification Number The Engine Identification Number (EIN) is stamped

into a machined

boss

on the

engine block. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, it is stamped into the left end of the engine block, just above the transaxle bellhousing (see illustration). On 2.6L and 3.0L engines, it is on the radiator side of the block, between the core plug and the rear of the block (see illustration). The 3.3L and 3.8L engine identification number

is located

on the rear of the

cylinder block just below the cylinder head (see illustration).

Engine serial numbers In addition to the EIN, a serial number,

which is required when buying replacement parts, is also stamped into the block. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, it is located just below the EIN on the block. On 2.6L and 3.0L engines, it is located

on the right-rear side of the

engine block, adjacent to the exhaust manifold stud (dashboard side of the vehicle) (see

illustration). On 3.0L and 3.8L engines the serial number is incorporated into the EIN.

Transaxle Identification

Number (TIN) The transaxle identification number is stamped into the boss on the upper surface of the housing (see illustration).

Transaxle serial number The transaxle serial number, also called the assembly part number, is required when buying parts. On manual transaxles, it is located on a metal tag attached to the front side of the transaxle. On automatic transaxle — models, it is located on a pad just above the oil pan at the rear of the transaxle.

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label This label is located under the hood, usually attached to the front edge of the hood, on the underside (see Chapter 6 for more information on this label).

:

0-7

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will

be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the var-

Grade 1 or 2

ious tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete. Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in

mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or

thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or

fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade

Identification

o> Hex Nut Grade 5

y ex Nut Arope! ery

3 Dots

and must be replaced with new ones.

.

4

}

Arabic 9

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded

holes that

have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any i

damaged washers with new ones. Never use

Hex Nut Prope

Hex Nut

Grade &

Class 10

e@

(

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

Cy

Class

Arabic 10 Metric hex nut

Metric stud strength markings

strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two

this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

bolts are nearly identical, and easily con-

distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their

fused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan-

dard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt

head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a

Fastener sizes

standard wrench

standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13

Class 10.9

a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between

)

should not be used on a

metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the

greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly

used on automo-

biles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In

Strength markings can also be used to

ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread

pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities deh

em

referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in

Metric thread sizes

aes

Ft-Ibs 6 to9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

cre beer ec ae

5to8 12to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

vent Bt deed! dee resis Shee Bee oa So,

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

Eeeh a

their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

WB

Tightening sequences and

Sisoderassesndecassvavaestandesanectdsawocucensee

procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com-

ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate

for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches)

should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to

the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following

the same

pattern.

Finally,

tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together

properly.

Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make characteristics or marks on installed more than one grooved thrust washer on a

note parts way, shaft.

of special that can be such as a It is a good

idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a com-

4~-QThread pitch (number of threads per inch)

D

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P_ L_ T

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters)

D_

Diameter

Nominal diameter (in inches)

ponent, keep track of their locations. Some-

identify the two halves with numbered pieces

times threading a bolt back in a part, or

of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par-

ticular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on

assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be

marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. \ Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated

with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular

hammer

can be used if a block of wood is

placed between the hammer and the part. Do

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

Dial indicator set

not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so

cone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is

Tools

recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which

reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry-

ing) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips _ Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department

or a service station. ; Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may _leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.

+ Because 7.

of various chemical reactions, the

rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that

secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Sili-

SS aE

0-9

A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair,

Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is

felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor

repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing

light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removai/installation tool

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet

Extension - 10 inch Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets)

Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch)

Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Stee! rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files. Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch

and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or

friends. In addition, most of these tools can

Hydraulic lifter removal too! Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-

Cable hoist

porary basis.

Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced

by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual.

Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work

should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance

and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a

Piston ring installation tool

larger tool box can be purchased to expand

Cylinder compression gauge

the tool selection. Building a tool set gradu-

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers

ally allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona

panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when

working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out.

Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still Sometimes, however, threads are badly aged. When this happens, you’ve got choices:

been work. damthree

1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the origi-

nal size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use,

be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out,

some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon

become

necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal

maintenance

or repairs,

present a dis-

posal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

Dead Battery

Booster battery

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position.

b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea.

d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) |f the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) ter-

minal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

=

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical

order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-13

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface

with the wheels blocked, the hazard flashers on and the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle must be raised. Make

sure no one is in the vehicle when using the jack to lift it. Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare tire (if needed) from the vehicle. If a tire is being changed, use the lug wrench to remove the wheel cover. Warning: Wheel

covers may have sharp edges - be very careful not to cut yourself. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is off the ground. Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point. There’s a jack locator pin near each wheel (see illustrations). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull the tire off and install the spare. Thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered to the ground. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts (if loosened or removed) in a criss-cross pattern. If possible, use a torque wrench to tighten them (see Chapter 1 for the

The jack supplied with the vehicle fits over a pin on the underside of the vehicle there’s one near each wheel

torque figures). If you don’t have a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

Towing Vehicles with an automatic transaxle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 25 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles. Otherwise, transmission damage can result. If the transmission is damaged or the distance will exceed 15 miles, the vehicle must

be towed

with the front wheels

off the

ground. Vehicles with a manual transaxle can be towed at any legal highway speed for any distance. If the vehicle has a damaged transaxle, tow it only with the front wheels off the ground. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing.

While towing, the parking brake should

Hoist and jacking points

be released and the transmission must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

0-14

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-

type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. _ Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets,

voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide

variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the

demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where

high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in

a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is

required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for

wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

It usually

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-

contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which

in disc brake equipped vehicles.

ally made with copper and graphite lubri-

is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function.

cants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts

Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination prob-

and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis.

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim

to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup.

They usually contain solvents that help dis-

lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will

solve gum and varnish that build up on car-

lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

buretor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to

Sealants

Miscellaneous Brake

fills

surface

irregularities,

remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplemen-

tary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to

form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic

sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an ‘anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant

fluid

is specially

formulated

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems.

Care must be taken so this fluid does not come

RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds,

waterproofs,

remove condensation from the gas tank.

in contact with painted surfaces

or

plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond

weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect

metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-

deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require

Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply

Chemicals

and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together.

Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

0-15

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in)

Feet (ft)

X

25.4

=Millimetres (mm)

X

1.609

= Kilometres (km)

X 0.305

Miles

KX x

0.0394 3.281 0.621

Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

=Metres (m)

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) _ Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X X. X X X X X X

16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) 0.568 = Litres (I) 1.137 =Litres (I) 1.201 =US quarts (US qt) 0.946 = Litres (I) 4.546 = Litres (I) 1.201 =US gallons (US gal) 3.785 = Litres (I)

KK x KX

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

X X

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

X< x


:

Vacuum

% X

7.233

= Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

ae Pie EOC 6 ON! Oe Se Ne x

er.

46

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1 Defective, damaged or oil contaminated disc brake pads on one side. Inspect as described in Chapter 1. 2 Excessive pad or disc wear on one side.

Inspect and correct as necessary.

O-ring where the speedometer cable enters the transaxle case (Chapter 7).

damage (Chapter 9).

tors where the lines enter the transaxle d) Speedometer connector: Replace the

and inspect

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

sary. 3 Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts loose. 4 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

Brakes Note: Before assuming a brake problem exists, make sure the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), the front end alignment is correct and the vehicle isn’t loaded with weight in an unequal man-

3 Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and tighten all bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 10). 4 Defective caliper assembly. Remove the caliper and inspect for a stuck piston or other

case and/or replace the lines.

the drums

ok Air in the hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake system (Chapter 9). 2 Defective brake hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Replace parts as neces-

50 color. Fluid leaks shouldn’t be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown by air flow to the transaxle. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-

Excessive brake pedal travel

1 Partial brake system failure. Inspect the entire system (Chapter 9) and correct as required. 2 Insufficient fluid in the master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1), add fluid and bleed the system if necessary (Chapter 9). 3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the transaxle is in Reverse. If this doesn’t correct

mechanic

should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid level.

Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied)

the self-adjusters (Chapter 9).

There are many probable causes for the

above

nD

43

47

Clicking noise in turns

e Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. e Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear other than the one actually being selected. e Vehicle moves when in Park.

0-21

Excessive effort required to stop vehicle

1 Power brake booster not operating properly (Chapter 9). 2 Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary (Chapter 9). 3 One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinder cups seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required (Chapter 9). 4 Brake linings or pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required (Chapter 9). 5 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to seat against the drum (or rotor).

51

Pedai travels to the floor with little resistance Little or no fluid in the master cylinder

reservoir caused by leaking wheel cylinder(s), leaking caliper piston(s), loose, damaged or

0-22

Troubleshooting aaaaaaaacaaasaaacaacacaaaacacaaacaaaaaaaaasaaaaaal

rr LN

disconnected brake lines. Inspect the entire system and correct as necessary.

52

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

1 Caliper improperly installed. Remove and inspect (Chapter 9). 2 Disc or drum defective. Remove (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the disc or drum resurfaced or replace it with a new one.

Suspension and steering systems

59

Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area)

1 Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a set (Chapter 10). 2 _ Broken or weak springs and/or suspension components. Inspect as described in Chapters 1 and 10.

1 2 3

Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). Tires out-of-balance. Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace

56

60

55

Excessively stiff steering

Front end out of alignment.

Vehicle pulls to one side

1 ‘Tire pressures uneven (Chapter 1). 2 __ Defective tire (Chapter 1). 3 Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). 4 Front end alignment incorrect. 5 Front brakes dragging. Inspect the

57

Excessive play in steering

1 Excessively worn suspension or steering component (Chapter 10).

2

58

Lack of power assistance

1

Steering pump drivebelt loose or defec-

Shimmy, shake or vibration

1‘ Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-ofround. 2 Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment rear

wheel bearings (Chapter 1). 3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged (Chapter 10).

components

Excessive tire wear on outside edge Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns.

— On

Front end alignment incorrect (excessive

toe-in). 4 Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter 10).

61

Steering gear damaged (Chapter 10).

brakes as described in Chapter 9.

54

as necessary. 4 Suspension or steering excessively worn (Chapter 10).

1 Lack of fluid in power steering fluid reservoir (Chapter 1). 2 __ Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1).

3 53

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

Excessive tire wear on inside edge

1 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). 2. Front end alignment incorrect. 3 Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter 10).

tive (Chapter 1). 2 Fluid level low (Chapter 1).

62

3 Hoses or lines restricted. Inspect and replace parts as necessary. 4 Air in power steering system. Bleed the system (Chapter 10).

1‘ Tires out-of-balance. 2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary.

3

Tire tread worn in one place

Defective tire (Chapter 1).

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents Section OS TREY TGF BOSSTALE EL eon oy ere Automatic transaxle band adjustment MEMEO SOS MOCEIS OMY) vrivers.s:t-csesscocivecdesesecreeshessscecanssescesess Automatic transaxle fluid and filter CHANGE. ..........cscseecsseseecsceeeseees Automatic transaxle fluid level ChECK .........c:cccsescssesceseccescssessseeseeee Battery check, maintenance and Charging ..........cccccssssscesesesceeeseee Cay SLCHI CUIOC Keescee ce onereas cnet ees OR ct ooo cov scvececsouctoscelacusice Carburetor choke check and Cleaning .....c.c.cccseseccececescecsceecscecesees

Section

19

Fuelfilternreplacement mirey wate tat ts ee FUCRSYStOMmiCnOck@s rent tute task eure atc, 1) SN ks GER aaa FAGALGCH Ital SVStOMIGMEGKa ter: ect atte. «a: s i

17.4c

17.4d An exploded view of the right engine mount

An exploded view of the front engine mount

BOLT INSULATOR

RIGHT YOKE BRACKET & INSULATOR

STRUT AND 2 SPACERS

TURBOCHARGED ENGINE

ONLY

POSITION

2A-20

Chapter 2 Part A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

NYLON SLEEVE MOULDED IN INSULATOR

17.4e

An exploded view of the left engine mount

5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners. 6 Rubber preservative should be applied to the insulators to slow deterioration.

Replacement 7. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands (if not already done). 8 Remove the fasteners and detach the

insulator from the frame bracket. 9

ie

Raise the engine slightly with a jack or

17.15

Cutaway of the left insulator sleeve assembly

hoist. Remove the insulator-to-engine bolts and detach the insulator. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

Adjustment 11. The right and left engine mounts are adjustable to allow drivetrain movement in relation to driveaxle assembly length (see Chapter 8). 12 Always adjust the insulators when: a) You service the driveaxles. b) The vehicle sustains front end structural damage. c) You replace an insulator. 13

INSULATOR = FREE TO SLIDE (14 TO 17 mm)

Remove the load on the engine mounts

by carefully supporting the engine and transaxle assembly with a floor jack. 14 Loosen the right insulator vertical fasteners and the front engine mount bracketto-front crossmember bolts and nuts. 15 The left engine mount insulator is sleeved over the shaft and long support bolt (see illustration) to provide lateral movement adjustment. 16 Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve the proper driveaxle length (see Chapter 8). 17 Tighten the right engine mount insulator vertical bolts securely, tighten the front engine mount bolts and nuts securely and center the left engine mount insulator. 18 Recheck the driveaxle length.

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2B

Contents Section Camshaft — removal, inspection and installation ...........:..cs00sc0 13 Camshaft oil seal (water pump pulley) — replacement. ................11 MERE SS}OIG OCI rays

», TERMINAL we

5-13

Typical alternator electrical connections

MOUNTING BRACKET WITH A/C ie

TENSION ADJUSTING

BOLT

s

LOWER

ADJUSTING BRACKET NUT

BRACKET

BOLT?

14.3a An exploded view of the mounting hardware for a typical earlier Chrysler alternator installation (four-cylinder engines) ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY

3.0L ENGINE ASSEMBLY

ALTERNATOR

Loc

~ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT LOCKING BOLT

“ied“ak: Ap iusTNG

\

ALTERNATOR MOUNTING: BRACKET

ADJUSTING BRACKET

BRACKET TO ENGINE MOUNTING BOLT

14.3b

14.3c An exploded view of the mounting hardware for the alternator ona 3.0L engine

An exploded view of a typical later Chrysler alternator installation (four-cylinder engines)

fusible link blows). Sometimes a fusible link may look good, but still be bad. If in doubt, remove it and check it for conti-

2) If the test light comes on, there is a short (drain) in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.

nuity. e) Start the engine and check the alternator

for abnormal

noises

(a shrieking

or

ness.

ing). f) Check the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte. If it’s low, charge the battery (doesn’t apply to maintenance free batteries).

(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad. (b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted).

g) Make sure the battery is fully charged 2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery (one bad cell in a battery can cause _ site voltageSaaS with the engine off. If should be overcharging by the alternator). pete 3

Start the engine and check the battery

first, then positive). Inspect the battery

voltage again. It should now be approxi-

posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the cable to the positive terminal.

4

With the key off, connect a test light between the negative battery post and

the disconnected negative cable clamp. 1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next Step.

tor or rectifier may be bad or the voltage regulator may be malfunctioning.

3) Disconnect the alternator wiring har-

squealing sound indicates a bad bear-

h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative

6 If the voltage reading is less than the specified voltage, the alternator diode(s), sta-

mately 14 to 15 volts.

Turn on the headlights. The voltage

should drop, and then come back up, if the

charging system is working properly. 5 If the voltage reading is more than the specified charging voltage, replace the voltage regulator. On later models, the regulator is inside the computer and can’t be replaced; on these vehicles, you’ll have to replace the

computer (see Chapter 6).

14

Alternator - removal and

installation : : Refer to illustrations 14.2, 14.38, 14.36, Seu ed, 1A OG Bid 14 f

Parca 2

at

Aces

esa

Detach the paces ee

theyalternator (gee. Nuss te

Ne! et

aoe

most vehicles, the alternator is located in front of the engine block. But on 3.3L and 3.8L models, it’s located behind the engine, so it’s impossible to get at the alternator connectors from above. If you’ve got a 3.3L or 3.8L model, raise the front of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands, then access the electrical connectors from below. 3 Loosen the alternator adjustment and

pivot bolts and detach the drivebelt (see illustrations).

5-14

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

ie)

14.3d To remove the alternator from 3.3L and 3.8L engines, remove this upper mounting bolt (arrow), ...

14.3e ... from underneath the vehicle, remove the nut and bolt (arrows) and remove this reinforcement between the engine and the timing belt cover, ...

4 Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts and separate the alternator from the engine. 5 If you’re replacing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuilt unit looks identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals - they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at the identification numbers - they will be stamped into

(see Chapter 1). 9 Check the charging voltage to verify proper operation of the alternator (see Section 13).

the housing or printed on a tag attached to the housing. Make sure the numbers are the same on both alternators. 6 Many new/rebuilt alternators DO NOT have a pulley installed, so you may have to switch the pulley from the old unit to the

15

Alternator brushes - replacement

14.3f ...remove this lower mounting bolt (arrow) and remove the alternator by taking it out through the gap between the engine and the firewall from underneath (you can’t remove it from above without removing the alternator mounting bracket)

nator (see illustration). 4 If the brushes appear to be significantly worn, or if they don’t move smoothly in the brush holder, replace the brush holder

assembly. 5

Note: /f the brushes on alternators used on 1990 and later models are worn, the alternator must be exchanged for a rebuilt unit. 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Label the wires and detach them from the alternator terminals.

Before

installing

the

brush

holder

assembly, check for continuity between each brush and the appropriate field terminal (see illustration). 6 Install the brush holder. Make sure the

brushes seat correctly. 7 Hold the brush holder securely in place and install the screws. Tighten them evenly, a

new/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator,

Bosch alternator

little at a time, so the holder isn’t distorted.

find out the shop’s policy regarding pulleys some shops will perform this service free of charge. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. 8 After the alternator is installed, adjust

Refer to illustrations 15.2, 15.3 and 15.5 2 Loosen the brush holder ._mounting screws a little at a time to prevent distortion of the holder, then remove them (see illustration). 3 Remove the brush holder from the alter-

Once the screws are snug, tighten them securely. 8 Reconnect the negative battery cable.

the drivebelt tension

15.2 On Bosch alternators, loosen the brush holder mounting screws (arrows) in small increments, moving from screw to screw, so the holder won’t be warped ...

15.5 15.3

... and remove the brush holder assembly

Using an ohmmeter, check for

continuity between each brush and the appropriate field terminal (if there’s no continuity, switch one of the leads to the

other field terminal or brush)

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-15

FAN POLY VEE

MOUNTING

PULLEY :

Y DUST COVER @

DUST COVER

Y.MOUNTING NUT

INSULATING WASHERS

BRUSHES

HOLDERS

HIELD.///

15.11

On Chrysler 60, 65 and 78-amp alternators, the brushes are held in the holders with screws - when installing the brushes, the insulating washers must be in place

YBRUSH HOLDER OUNTING SCREWS

DRIVE END SHIELD

}

15.16

7)

ADL

Y] ALTERNATOR BATTERY TERMINAL

On Chrysler 40 and 90-amp alternators, remove the nut and detach the dust cover

pave END

—

wy

(Ay

, yf LYyy,

BRUSH

fs

HOLDER Lape ASSEMBLY

NN

Or.

ALAC rt Copy Se

CAPACITOR PIN

Oe”

15.17a Toreplace the brushes on Chrysler 40 and 90-amp alternators, remove the brush holder mounting screws...

Chrysler 60, 65 and 78-amp alternators Refer to illustration 15.11 9 Remove the alternator (see Section 14). 10 The brushes are mounted in plastic holders which locate them in the proper posi-

15.17b

. and detach the brush holder

TEST FIELD PROBE TERMINAL BRUSH

HOLDER

OUTER

tion. 11. Remove the brush mounting screws and insulating washers and separate the brush assemblies from the rectifier end shield (see illustration). 12 If the brushes appear to be significantly worn or are oil soaked or damaged, replace

them with new ones. 13

CAPACITOR, RECTIFIERy pei ASSEMBLY

15.18 Before installing the brush holder assembly on 40 and90-amp Chrysler alternators, use an ohmmeter to verify continuity between each brush and the appropriate field terminal (if there’s no continuity, switch one of the leads to the other field terminal or brush)

Make sure the brushes move smoothly

in the holders. 14 Insert the brush assemblies into the rectifier end shield and install the screws and washers. Tighten the screws securely. Make sure the brushes aren’t grounded. 15 Install the alternator.

Chrysler 40 and 90-amp alternators Refer to illustrations 15.16, 15.17a, 15.17b

-and 15.18 16

Remove

the nut and detach

the dust

cover from the rear of the alternator (see illustration). 17 Remove the brush holder mounting screws and separate the brush holder from the end shield (see illustrations). 18 Before installing the new brush holder assembly, check for continuity between each brush and the appropriate field terminal (see illustration). 19 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be

careful when sliding the brushes over the slip

rings and don’t overtighten the brush holder screws.

Nippondenso alternators Refer to illustrations 15.20, 15.21, 15.22a, 15.22b and 15.24 20 With the alternator removed from the vehicle (see the previous Section), remove

5-16

Chapter 5

15.20 To replace the brushes on Nippondenso alternators, remove the B+ terminal insulator nut, washer and insulator

15.22b

...

Engine electrical systems

15.21 Remove the rear cover attaching nuts (arrows) and remove the rear cover (Nippondenso alternators)

and remove the brush holder assembly (Nippondenso alternators)

15.24

15.22a Remove the brush holder attaching screws (arrows)...

Depress the brushes with your index finger as you slide the brush holder into place

the B+ insulator nut and insulator (see illustration). 21 Remove the rear cover attaching nuts and remove the rear cover (see illustration). 22 Remove the brush holder attaching screws and lift the brush holder from the alternator (see illustrations).

23 Before installing the new brush holder assembly, check for continuity between each brush and the appropriate field terminal (see illustrations 15.5 and 15.18).

24

Voltage regulator - description

Refer to illustration 16.2 1. ‘The voltage regulator is a device that

Atypical Chrysler

external electronic

voltage regulator

To install the brush holder assembly,

use your finger to depress the brushes (see illustration), then slide the holder over the | commutator slip rings and screw it into place. 25 Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. When installing the B+ insulator, be sure to align the guide tang with the hole in the rear cover.

16

16.2

JUMPER WIRE

7

GROUND

regulates vehicle electrical system voltage by limiting output voltage generated by the alternator. It accomplishes this task by limiting the amount of current passing through the alternator field windings. The regulators used on some models covered by this manual are electronic - there are no moving parts and

they’re not adjustable like older mechanical regulators.

2 On pre-1987 models, the voltage regulator used with Chrysler alternators is an external solid-state device (see illustration) located in the engine compartment. If this type of regulator goes bad, replacement is

Chapter 5

4

19.3

2

‘

a

;

|

Label the wires (arrows) before disconnecting them from the starter assembly

19.4a On 2.2L, 2.5L and turbo engines, remove this starter motor mounting bolt (arrow) from underneath the vehicle and, ...

straight-forward. The regulator used with Mit-

subishi alternators (2.6L engines) is an internal component

located inside the alternator.

If a Mitsubishi regulator is bad, exchange the alternator for a rebuilt unit; replacement of the voltage regulator - which involves consid-

erable disassembly

of the alternator and

some soldering - is impractical.

3

On some 1987 and all later models, the

voltage regulator is integrated into the logic

module, the single-module engine controller (SMEC) or the single-board engine controller (SBEC) of the fuel injection system. Special diagnostic tools are needed to check the regulator. Only a dealer service department and some repair shops have these tools. If the regulator is faulty, the computer must be replaced. Computer replacement is covered

by a Federally-mandated extended warranty (see your owner’s manual or consult your _ dealer for details). If the computer is out of warranty and you want to replace it yourself,

see Chapter 6.

operated when the transmission selector lever is in Park or Neutral. Always observe the following precautions when working on the starting system: a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it and cause serious damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes.

b) The starter is connected directly to the battery and could arc or cause a mishandled, overloaded or shorted c) Always detach the cable from the tive terminal of the battery before ing on the starting system.

18

fire if out. negawork-

Starter motor - in-vehicle check

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure the battery is fully charged.

17

Starting system - general information and precautions

The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickly enough to allow it to start. : The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid,

the switch and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted directly on the starter motor.

The solenoid/starter motor assembly is installed on the lower part of the engine, next to the transaxle bellhousing. When the ignition key is turned to the Start position, the starter solenoid is actuated through the starter control circuit. The starter

solenoid then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter motor, which does the ~ actual work of cranking the engine. \

The the starter on a vehicle equipped

_ with an automatic transmission can only be

am poe

5-17

Engine electrical systems

1 If the starter motor doesn’t turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure the shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission). 2 Make sure the battery is charged and all

cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are clean and secure. 3 If the starter motor spins but the engine isn’t cranking, the overrunning clutch in the

19.4b ... remove the other mounting bolt and the nut (arrows) from above, then remove the starter nal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the ignition switch, neutral start switch or

the wiring. 76 lf the starter motor still doesn’t operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for disassembly, testing and repair. 8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first make sure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature

is reached,

then disconnect

the

coil wire from the distributor cap and ground it on the engine. 10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post and connect the nega-

tive lead to the negative post. 11. Crank the engine and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a Steady figure is indicated. Don’t allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. !f the read-

ing is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are probably burned, the starter motor is bad, the battery is discharged or there’s a bad connection.

starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. 4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor doesn’t operate at all but the

19

Starter motor assembly removal and installation

solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).

5 If the solenoid plunger can’t be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (the circuit is

open) or the solenoid itself is defective. 6 To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch wire terminal (the small termi-

Refer to illustrations 19.3, 19.4a, 19.4b, 19.4c¢ and 19.4d 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 _ Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3

Clearly label, then disconnect the wires

from the terminals on the starter motor and solenoid (see illustration). 4 Remove the mounting bolts (see illus-

—a

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

STARTER MOTOR ATTACHING BOLTS

19.4d On 3.0L engines, remove these three starter mounting bolts (arrows) and remove the starter (three starter mounting bolts on 3.3L engine similar)

TRANSAXLE OIL PAN 19.4c On 2.6L engines, remove these two starter mounting bolts (arrows) and remove the starter

terminal of the battery. 2

Remove

the starter

motor

(see Sec-

tion 19). trations) and detach the starter. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Bosch Refer to illustrations 20.3a, 20.3b, 20.3c, 20.4 and 20.5 3 Remove the field terminal nut, disconnect the field terminal and remove the washer (see illustrations).

20

Starter motor/solenoid/gear reduction assembly replacement

1.

Disconnect the cable from the negative

4

Remove the three solenoid mounting

screws (see illustration).

BATTERY TERMINAL

5 Work the solenoid off the shift fork and detach it from the drive end housing (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Nippondenso Refer to illustrations 20.7, 20.8a, 20.8b, 20.9a and 20.9b 7 If you’re replacing the starter motor or solenoid, disconnect the field coil strap from the solenoid terminal (see illustration); if you’re replacing the gear reduction assem-

SOLENOID TERMINAL

FIELD TERMINAL

SOLENOID

FIELD COIL TERMINAL oO

20.3a

Before disconnecting the solenoid from a Bosch starter motor, remove the field terminal nut, .. .

20.3b SOLENOID

BATTERY TERMINAL

SOLENOID TERMINAL

SOLENOID

FIELD TERMINAL WASHER

... disconnect the field terminal, ...

SOLENOID MOUNTING SCREWS

STARTER STARTER MOTOR

20.4

20.3¢

... and remove the washer

To detach the solenoid from a Bosch starter motor, remove these three screws (arrows)

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

5-19

DRIVE END HOUSING

20.5 OnaBosch starter motor, work the solenoid off the shift fork and detach it from Be

STARTER

the drive end housing

p\

MOTOR “\\ PY\\ 28

;

, bly, skip this step and proceed to the next step. 8 To detach the starter motor from the gear reduction assembly, simply remove the

two long through-bolts and pull off the starter (see illustrations).

20.8a

9 To detach the solenoid from the gear reduction assembly, remove the starter, then remove the two Phillips screws from the gear reduction assembly and pull off the solenoid

(see illustrations). 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

To detach a Nippondenso starter motor from the gear reduction assembly, remove these two long

20.8b

through-bolts (arrows) . . .

.

7

see

20.7 If you’re replacing the starter motor or solenoid on a Nippondenso starter motor, disconnect the field coil strap from the solenoid terminal (if you’re replacing the gear reduction assembly, you can leave the solenoid and starter wired together and simply disconnect both of

them as a single unit from the gear reduction housing)

h f h ...and separate the starter motor from the gear

reduction housing

is

20.9a To detach a Nippondenso solenoid from the gear reduction assembly, remove the starter, remove these two Phillips screws (arrows)...

20.96

...and separate the solenoid from the gear reduction housing

Ri los

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-20 Oe

Notes

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems Contents Section

Section

NAL SV SUC NIN co teate eeseausteoccsarecci dentseyocaeessaczoatprsahseushvvsavceoeen BRIERE HON) (AN) SVSLOMN icexaos,sna0v-c4s-care-osacnbducs Y

MAIN REED VALVE

PULSE AIR FEEDER

FRONT CATALYTIC CONVERTER

SUB

REED VALVE TO REAR CATALYTIC CONVERTER

CLEANER DIAPHRAGM FROM CRANKCASE NO. 3 CYLINDER

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

CRANKCASE NO. 3 CYLINDER

9.2 \ FROM OIL PAN

Pulse Air Feeder (PAF) system (2.6L engine)

6-10

Chapter 6

pulsations from within the crankcase. The air passes to the sub reed valve, which is actuated by the exhaust system pulsations, to the exhaust system and then the rear converter (see illustration).

Emissions control systems

ASPIRATOR VALVE

NO.1 ASPIRATOR TUBE NO.2 ASPIRATOR TUBE

AIR CLEANER

Checking is) Disconnect the hose from the air cleaner and, with the engine running, place your hand over the end. If no vacuum is felt, check the hoses

for

leaks.

If the

hoses

are

alright,

replace the PAF assembly with a new one.

Component replacement 4 Remove the air deflector duct from the right side of the radiator. Remove the carburetor shield, the oil dipstick and the dipstick tube. Remove the PAF mounting bolts. 5 Raise the vehicle and support it securely. ; 6 Disconnect the hoses and remove the PAF assembly from the vehicle. 7 Place the new pulse air feeder assembly in position and connect the hoses. 8 Lower the vehicle and install the mounting bolts. Check the dipstick O-ring to make sure it is in good condition and install the dipstick and tube. Install the carburetor shield and radiator air deflector.

Or)

NO.2 ASPIRATOR *¥" CONNECTOR

MANIFOLD

TUBE

10.5

Air aspirator system (2.6L engine)

connect the hose from the inlet. With the engine idling (transmission in Neutral), the exhaust pulses should be felt at the inlet. If a steady stream of exhaust gases is escaping from the inlet, the valve is defective and should be replaced with a new one.

Air aspirator system

Note: This Section applies only to models with the 2.6L engine.

7 The valves can be replaced by removing the hose clamp, detaching the hose and unscrewing the tube fitting. 8 The aspirator tubes can be replaced by unscrewing the fittings at the valve and manifold and removing the bracket bolt.

General description 1.‘ The aspirator system uses exhaust pulsations to draw fresh air from the air cleaner into the exhaust system. This reduces carbon

4 Aspirator valve failure results in excessive exhaust system noise from under the

?

valve-to-exhaust manifold joint and the valve and air cleaner hose connections for leaks (see illustration). If the manifold joint is leaking, retighten the tube fitting securely. If the

hose connections are leaking, install new hose clamps (if the hose has not hardened). 6

To determine if the valve has failed, dis-

11.2d 1 The electronic fuel injection (EFI) system provides the correct air-fuel ratio under all

“Tf

= CHECK ENGINE

IGNITION COIL

LAMP

COOLANT. aes THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR BATTERY

ENGIN CONTROLLER

EMISSION

MANIFOLD OLUTE eeaccuine SENSOR

MAINTENANCE

RADIATOR

wes

RELAY

REMINDER

DISTANCE SENSOR

LAM

abtkess

FAN

SPEED CONTROL SOLENOIDS IGNITION sop REFERENCE =~ PICKUP

the valve to the air cleaner.

If exhaust noise is excessive, check the

Refer to illustrations 11.2a, 11.2b, 11.2c and

EVEL EUS

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

hood and hardening of the rubber hose from 5

SMEC/SBEC

DIAGNOSTI TOO

Checking Refer to illustration 10.5

Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC)/Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) and information sensors - description

ENGINE CONTROLLER INPUTS

monoxide (CO) and, to a lesser degree, hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. 2 The system is composed of aspirator valves and tubes, a Y connector and various hoses. 3 The aspirator valves work most efficiently at idle and slightly off idle, where the negative exhaust pulses are strongest. The valves remain closed at higher engine speeds.

11

Note: This Section applies only to 1987 and later models with EFI systems.

Component replacement 10

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Z

BRAKE SWITCH

6 y)

i DISTRIBUTOR

11.2a

PURGE SOLENOID

~

ELECTRIC EXHAUST GA S

3

Loe

TACHOMETER LOCKUP TORQUE CONVERTER SOLENOID

RECIRCULATION TRANSDUCER (EET)

Single-point EFI system used on the 2.5L engine (typical)

il

Chapter 6

6-11

Emissions control systems

SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER (SMEC) DIAGNOSTIC TOOL

e

NEUTRAL

BRAKE SWITCH

SAFETY SWITCH

g

DISTANCE

aera

SENSOR

LAMP

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE

SPEED

AND BAROMETRIC SOLENOID

CYCLING SWiTcH CONTROL SWITCH

J?Cm) of 7

COOLANT

CHECK ENGINE

G

p=

oa EE

AIC CLUTCH RELAY

RADIATOR FAN RELAY

pa

AIC CONDENSER

AUTO = SHUT

FAN RELAY

DOWN

SENSOR

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

RELAY

LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER SOLENOID

& urn IGNITION

AUTOMATIC IDLE

DETONATION

SPEED MOTOR

PURGE

SENSOR

WASTE GATE

11.2b

SOLENDIC 5 SOLENOID

Typical multi-point

EFI system used on the

SENSOR

turbo engines

REFERENCE DISTRIBUTOR

PICKUP

ie. >>

FUEL

SYNCH. PICKUP

a

Dp

©

IGNITION COIL

&

oy

©

>

FUEL INJECTORS

LANE

ALTERNATOR

SPEED CONTROL SERVO

driving

conditions.

The

2.5L

engine

is

equipped with a computer-controlled, “single-point” (one injector in the throttle body)

electronic fuel injection (EFI) system. The 2.5L turbo, 3.0L and 3.3L engines are

equipped with similar “multi-point” (injector in

+h

each intake port) EFI systems.

rey

2 ‘The “brain” of all EFl systems is a computer known as a Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) (1987 through 1989 models) or

Ter ce — D

a Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC)

(1990 and 1991 models) (see illustrations). :

The SMEC/SBEC is located at the front left corner of the engine compartment, between the battery and the left inner fender panel.

3

The SMEC/SBEC receives variable volt-

a

Fe cere PICKUP

Se

os

BATTERY

Pcie

SENSOR

)

@

TRANSMISSION PARK/NEUTRAL

COOLANT TEMPERATURE

SWITCH

CHECK ENGINE

neeN

es) &

TACHOMETER [

IGNITION COIL

Bis RUBLIOR THROTTLE POSITION

‘a

MAINTENAN REMINDER TOMATIC _ PURGE (EMR) stsIDLE SOLENOID LAMP — SPEED MOTOR

cS)

|

advance,

ignition

pulse width

and

are converted into digiare “read” by the constantly fine-tunes ignition timing, spark

coil dwell,

fuel

idle speed

to minimize

injector

exhaust emissions and enhance driveability.

It also controls the operation of the radiator cooling fan, the alternator charging rate and such emissions-related components

as the

EGR solenoids and the purge solenoid for the -EVAP canister. The SMEC/SBEC even updates and revises its own programming in response to changing operating conditions.

‘AN

HEATED

OXYGEN SENSOR

RELAY

1

=({aie=

U

DISTANCE SENSOR

SPEED

CONTROL SWITCH 11.2c

ABSOLUTE

PRESSURE SENSOR

TRANSMISSION

@

FUEL PUMP

—afejte

ch

SPEED CONTROL SOLENOIDS

FUEL INJECTORS

Multi-point EFl system used on the 3.0L engine

reading any stored fault codes to identify the

properly connected and/or plugged in. The most common cause of a problem in any EFI system is a loose or corroded electrical connector or a loose vacuum line. To learn how to output this information and display it on

general location of a problem, followed by a

the Check Engine light on the dash, refer to

thorough visual inspection of the system components to ensure that everything is

Section 12.

out Box DRB I! (number C-4805) or its equiv-

cuit it’s in. This process always begins with

expensive factory tool, the Diagnostic Read-

>

7 ata

CLUTCH HOUSING UPPER BOLTS

Upper clutch housing bolt locations

3.10

{

—__=

DIFFERENTIAL COVER ____——

Disconnecting the anti-rotation link

7TA-6

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

the engine and lower it to the floor (see illustration). 13 With the transaxle removed, the clutch components are now accessible and can be inspected. In most cases, new clutch components should be routinely installed when the transaxle is removed (see Chapter 8).

Installation Note: Before installing the transaxle, fabricate two locating pins. Cut the heads off two proper-size bolts with a hacksaw and remove any burrs from the ends with a file or a grinder. Then use the hacksaw to cut slots in

Sy

14 If removed, install the clutch components (see Chapter 8). 15 Install the two locating pins in place of the top two clutch housing bolts. 16 With the transaxle secured to the jack with a chain, raise it into position behind the engine, then carefully slide it forward, engaging the input shaft with the clutch plate hub splines. Do not use excessive force to install the transaxle - if the input shaft does not slide into place, readjust the angle of the transaxle so it is level and/or turn the input shaft so the splines engage properly with the clutch plate hub. 17 Install the clutch housing bolts. Tighten the bolts securely (don’t forget to remove the locating pins and replace them with bolts).

18

Install the anti-rotation link and tighten

the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 19 Install the left engine mount and tighten

it securely. 20

If the transaxle rear cover has not been

installed prior to this point, clean the cover and mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply a 1/8inch bead of RTV sealant to the cover (see illustration) and install the cover and bolts. 21 Fill the transaxle to the bottom of the fill

plug hole with the specified lubricant (see Chapter 1). 22 Install the various items removed previ-

3.20

sure to go around the bolt holes) when installing the rear end cover

cult job for the do-it-yourselfer. It involves the disassembly and reassembly of many small parts. Numerous clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed with select-fit spacers and snap-rings. As a result, if transaxle problems arise, it can be removed and installed by a competent do-it-

make careful notes of how each piece comes off, where it fits in relation to other pieces and what holds it in place. Before taking the transaxle apart for repair, it will help if you have some idea what

yourselfer, but overhaul be left to a transmission repair shop. Rebuilt transaxles may be available - check with your dealer parts department and auto parts stores. At any rate, the time and money involved in an overhaul is almost sure to exceed the cost of a rebuilt unit. Nevertheless, it’s not impossible for an inexperienced mechanic to rebuild a transaxle if the special tools are available and the job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner and nothing is overlooked. The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external snap-ring pliers, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches, a dial indicator and possibly a

hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench and a vise or transaxle stand will be required. During disassembly of the transaxle,

SPEEDOMETER CABLE “O” RING

supporting the engine and transaxle.

Make a final check that all wires, hoses,

gearshift linkages (see Section 2), and the

speedometer cable (see Section 5) have been connected.

Lower the front of the vehicle.

26

Connect

the negative

PINION a

Overhauling a manual transaxle is a diffi-

Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the front of this manual for information regarding possible sources of trouble.

5

Speedometer drive pinion removal and installation

Refer to illustration 5.2

Removal 1 The speedometer drive pinion assembly is located in the differential extension housing. 2 Remove the retaining bolt and carefully work the assembly up and out of the extension housing (see illustration).

3 Remove the retainer and separate the pinion from the adapter. 4 Check the speedometer cable to make sure that transaxle fluid has not leaked into it. If there is fluid in the cable, remove the adapter and replace the O-ring with a new one. Reconnect the cable to the adapter. 5 Install a new O-ring to the outside of the retainer. Connect the adapter to the pinion gear, making sure the retainer is securely

Installation

RETAINER

Road test the vehicle for proper operation

Manual transaxle overhaul general information

area of the transaxle is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely tied to specific areas in the transaxle, which can make component examination and replacement easier.

seated.

battery cable.

and check for leaks.

4

Apply RTV sealant as shown (be

3.12 Support the transaxle with a jack when removing it (note the safety chain)

exhaust system. 23 Remove the jack(s) (and fixture, if used)

25

rN

——— Dy)

ously, referring to Chapter 8 for the driveaxles and Chapter 4 for information regarding the

24

f

a

the ends of the locating pins so they can be unscrewed with a screwdriver and replaced with bolts.

fee_

EXTENSION HOUSING 5.2

Speedometer drive assembly exploded view

6 Make sure the mating surfaces of the adapter and the extension housing are clean, as any debris could cause misalignment of the pinion.

7 Attach the assembly to the transaxle, install the retaining bolt and tighten it securely.

7B-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle Contents Section sdabetnds odereenetemeecen 8 Automatic transaxle - removal and installation PeTEICIEACHMISSEIT ION) Cpanss setcaeenessevsnnecceveeescencseressazmactes eee See Chapter1 2 BFACIOS Ss COM CLAll tee nxttcantekessnessctsssannsesdyectts sensSeonseondaescaperctecedests PCH ATICHNIITORCHANGO c.trtucarccscossrogectrevtdecsensctceseae sagcionesah See Chapter 1 FAPHCANGVOUCMEC Ken or ox vasexesecarlsscteecceccsseiesNoteceseouse breve stscty See Chapter 1 1 Grendel MONMALON servervccap-octsscentectvscsucecorseovactorae Ss seuaseaeyeaabaae ts sdesied

Neutral start and back-up light switch - check MIAME PUAGCOINION bisactecss.seveswe-vessebaeucusceevthocerens sncvdaeaba cab ecusee cet

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7

Specifications

Fluid type and Capacity oo... BEGIN CASUTSSUETUGHIVE foes

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Torque specifications

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 1 Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Driveplate-to-torque converter bolts 1 GEES pohiige! TSP S es OE Se ee eee eee nen AES NC) Late a I a eco iva det ciaceaa das sibae ven hn eyra'svaasKadanusdsvgqueeaasphussen RSet ESSATE STE eee eon EPR fe a lato haes caccvusnanacckaedet aapsvaniateassons MEMOS GAD O=tO-PAMSAXIO DOM tis nicer ctarsvctadentonesssseacsavcacisesoseashexsrasengsnoes A-604 Ultradrive

ROUENLussOSGI SONSOl ve bs nae ce anns“cebu secure oreo ct cseewsenersieccessternctssuasenossensis Fars itn SUV LEC IaP ah tee dearee ok farattece Mica ah wie cart veavonsuss vb ove snececaechacudeeney execs

105 in-lbs 20 20

four-speed transaxle is conventional in that it uses hydraulic clutches to shift a planetary

2

geartrain. What is unique to the A-604 or 41TE Ultradrive is the use of fully-adaptive

Note: Automatic transaxle malfunctions may

controls. These adaptive controls are based

be caused by five general conditions: Poor

transaxle, a three-speed automatic, or a four-

on real-time feedback sensor information

engine performance,

speed Ultradrive electronic automatic transaxle. All information on the automatic transaxles is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information on the manual transaxle can

similar to electronic antilock braking system. Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxles and the need for special equip-

hydraulic-mechanical, or electronic malfunc-

be found in Part A of this Chapter.

operations, this Chapter contains only general diagnosis, seal replacement, adjustments and removal and installation proce-

1.

General information

All vehicles covered in this manual come equipped with a four or five-speed manual

The transaxle combines into a compact front-wheel-drive system a torque converter, attached to the crankshaft through a driveplate, an automatic transmission, and a differential. The A-604 or 41TE Ultradrive electronic

ment and expertise to perform most service

dures. If the transaxle requires major work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automatic transmission repair shop.

Diagnosis - general

improper adjustments,

tions. Diagnosis of these problems should

always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition (see Chapter 1), shift linkage adjustment and throttle cable adjustment (see Sections 5 and 6).

Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, additional diagnosis should be

,

7B-2

Chapter 7 PartB

done by a dealer service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the front of this manual for transaxle problem diagnosis.

Preliminary checks 1 Drive the vehicle to warm the transaxle to normal operating temperature. 2 Check the fluid level as described in Chapter 1: a) If the fluid level is unusually low, add enough to bring the level within the designated area on the dipstick, then check for external leaks. b) If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). c) If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, then check for coolant in the fluid or a high fluid level. 3

Check the engine idle speed. Note: /f

the engine is malfunctioning, don’t proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally. 4 Check the throttle valve cable for freedom of movement. Adjust it if necessary (see Section 6). Note: The throttle valve cable may function properly when the engine is off and cold, but may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature. 5 Inspect the shift linkage (see Section 5). Make sure it’s properly adjusted and operates smoothly.

Fluid leak diagnosis 6 Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consist of replacing a seal or gasket. If a leak is difficult to find, the following procedure may help. 7 Identify the fluid. Make sure it’s transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid

(automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color). 8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a

minute or two you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard.

9

Make a careful visual inspection of the

suspected component and the areas immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see. 10 If the leak still can’t be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it.

11.

Drive the vehicle for several miles at nor-

mal

operating

temperature

and

varying

speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again. 12 Once the leak has been located, the

Automatic transaxle

cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket won’t stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions can’t be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a dealer service department.

Gasket leaks 14 Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are all in place (and none are missing) and tight, the gasket is good condition and the pan is flat (dents in the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside).

15

If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid

level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. If sealant is used in place of a gasket, it may be the wrong sealant.

Seal leaks

the casting is porous and will have to be repaired or replaced. 19 Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.

Fluid comes out of the filler opening 20 If this condition occurs, overfilled, there is coolant case is porous, the dipstick vent is plugged or the drain plugged.

3

the transaxle is in the fluid, the is incorrect, the back holes are

Oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 3.3, 3.4, 3.8 and 3.9 1

Note: /f your vehicle has been sitting for

any length of time (six months or longer), the transaxle oil pump seal may leak. First add transmission oil sealer. Old or dry transaxle seals shrink and cause leaks. Adding an oil sealer will swell the seal and sometimes stop it from leaking. If this does not restore the old seal and stop the leaking at the seals, the leaking seal(s) will have to be replaced.

Oil pump seal Note: The transaxle oil pump (front) seal can be replaced without removing the oil pump. 2 To replace the transaxle oil pump seal, the transaxle and torque converter will have

16 If atransaxle seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged (these models are vented through the hollow dipstick), the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing may be causing excessive shaft movement. Check for a leak at the oil pump seal by removing the torque converter inspection plate and looking for trails of fluid or a puddle of fluid in the torque converter housing.

transaxle removal. 3 If available, use the factory seal removal tool (number C-3981). Screw the seal remover into the seal, then tighten the screw to draw the seal out (see illustration). If the factory tool is not available, use a hook-type seal removal tool (available from automotive tool suppliers). If a hook-type tool is not available, try using a screwdriver or other prying tool to pry the seal up, moving around the

17

seal. Be careful not to scratch the input shaft

Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in

good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, check the Oring for damage. Also inspect the side gear shaft oil seals for leakage.

Case leaks 18

If the case itself appears to be leaking,

to be removed.

Refer

to Section

8 for

or the seal bore.

4 If available, use the factory tools (numbers C-4193 [the installer] and C-4171 [the handle}) to install the new seal. Place the seal

in the opening (lip side facing in), then drive the seal in until it bottoms in the seal bore (see illustration). If the factory tools are not

available, use a small block of wood and a hammer to carefully tap the seal into place, PUMP OIL SEAL

3.3

Transaxle oil

pump seal removal

ae

using tool C-3981

Chapter 7 PartB

7B-3

Automatic transaxle

OIL SEAL INSTALLER TOOL C-4193

EXTENSION

HOUSING

OIL SEAL

3.4

3.8

Transaxle oil pump seal installation using tools C-4171

Extension housing seal removal using a screwdriver

and C-4193 5

SPECIAL TOOL L-4520 (INVERTED) HANDLE C-4171

Shift cable - check and adjustment

Check

3.9 Extension housing seal installation using tools L-4520 and C-4171

1 Check the operation of the transaxle in each shift lever position (try to start the

engine in each position - the starter should

EXTENSION

HOUSING

operate in the Park and Neutral positions only). If operation is not as described, try adjusting the shift cable, as described below. If operation still is not correct, check the neutral start switch (see Section 7).

HAMMER

Adjustment tapping all the way around the seal until it

bottoms in the seal bore.

Extension housing (right side driveaxle) seal Note: Replacing the left side driveaxle oil seal requires

removing

the differential bearing

4

Refer to illustrations 5.3 and 5.5 2 Place the shift lever in park. 3 Working in the engine compartment, loosen the shift cable clamp bolt on the transaxle bracket (see illustration). 4 Pull the shift lever all the way to the

Transaxle mount - check and replacement

This procedure is covered with the Engine mounts - check and replacement procedures in Chapter 2.

detent (Park position) by hand. 5

Keeping

pressure

on

the shift lever,

retainer (a special tool is needed) and pressing the new seal into the retainer with an arbor press. This procedure is beyond the scope of the home mechanic.

CLAMP

SCREW

5 The extension housing seal is located in the extension housing, which is bolted to the right side of the transaxle. 6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely

BRAKE PEDAL BRACKET

on jackstands. 7 Remove the right driveaxle (see Chapter 8). 8

GROMMET

Using a screwdriver or other prying tool,

pry the seal out of the extension housing (see illustration). 9 Coat the lip and outside diameter of the new seal with transmission fluid. Place the new seal over the opening (lip side facing in). Use a socket the same size as the outside diameter of the seal or a wood block and carefully tap the socket or wood with a hammer, driving the seal into place. If available, you should use the factory tool (numbers L4520 and C-4171 handle). With these tools drive the new seal into the extension housing

(see illustration).

STEERING COLUMN

DASH PANEL 5.3

Shift linkage - all models GROMMET

ON CABLE MUST BE

FIRMLY SEATED INTO DASH PANEL HOLE

7B-4

Chapter 7 PartB

Automatic transaxle CARBURETOR ACCELERATOR PEDAL

SCREW AND WASHER

A

» oe

yyNN

vy AN \\ vy

Kee 7 ee ee CABLE ADJUSTMENT

5.5 ne the shiftane bolt -note one hand esta pressure on the shift lever (arrow) as the bolt is tightened tighten the cable clamp bolt (see illustration). 6 Check the shift lever and try to start the engine in all the shift stops. The engine should start only when the lever is in the Park or Neutral position.

6.

Throttle cable - check and adjustment (except A-604 and 41TE Ultradrive)

Note: The A-604 and 41TE Ultradrive transmission does not have a transmission throttle cable. Refer to illustrations 6.4 and 6.7.

Check 1 The throttle pressure cable adjustment is important to the proper operation of the transaxle. If the adjustment is long, the

transaxle will shift early. If the adjustment is too short, the transaxle will shift late. 2 The throttle cable controls a valve in the transaxle which governs the shift quality and

speed. If shifting is harsh or erratic, the throttle cable should be adjusted.

TRANSAXLE THROTTLE LEVER

Adjustment

tates Nas SELECTOR LEVER

6.4 Throttle cable layout - 1984 and 1985 models

the stop, after the cross-lock is released.

9

1984 and 1985 models 3 The adjustment must be made with the engine at normal operating temperature. 4 Loosen the adjustment bracket lock screw (see illustration) 5 To ensure proper adjustment, the bracket must be free to slide back-and-forth. If necessary, remove it and clean the slot and sliding surfaces as well as the screw. 6 Slide the bracket to the left (toward the

engine) to the limit of its travel. Release the bracket and move the throttle lever all the way to the right, against the internal stop,

then tighten the adjustment screw to 105 in-ib.

Move the transaxle throttle control lever

clockwise as far as possible (against the internal stop) and press the cross-lock down into the locked position.

10

Do not lubricate any of the linkage com-

ponents on later models.

All models 11. Check the cable action (connect the choke if disconnected). Move the transaxle throttle cable all the way forward, release it slowly and make sure that it returns completely.

bracket lock 7

1986 and later models 7 Loosen the cable mounting bracket lock screw and position the bracket so the alignment tabs are in contact with the transaxle

casting. Tighten the lock screw to 105 in-Ib (see illustration) 8 Release the cross-lock on the cable assembly by pulling up on it. To ensure proper adjustment, the cable must be free to slide all the way toward the engine, against

Neutral start and back-up light switch - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 7.1a, 7.1b and 7.7

Check 1 The neutral start switch and back-up switch is located at the lower front edge of the transaxle

(see illustrations)

. The switch

controls the back-up light and the starting of the engine in Park and Neutral. The center terminal of the switch grounds the starter

LOCK-UP SOLENOID ELECTRICAL ee

Gy NEUTRAL/PARK SAFETY ables

THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE

THROTTLE CONTROL LEVER SELECTOR LEVER 6.7

Throttle cable layout - 1986 and later models

7.1a

Neutral start (safety) switch location - three-speed automatic transaxle

Chapter 7 PartB

7B-5

Automatic transaxle

SS

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ay 7.1b

Neutral start (safety) switch location - four-speed automatic transaxle (A-604 Ultradrive)

7.7

Neutral start (safety) switch removal (A-604 Ultradrive)

yea’

UPPER BELL

Qe °

85

The weight of the engine must be supported with the special fixture or a jack as the transaxle is removed

solenoid circuit when the transaxle is in Park or Neutral, allowing the engine to start. 2 ‘Prior to checking the switch, make sure the gearshift linkage is properly adjusted (see Section 5). 3 Unplug the connector and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the center terminal and the case. Continuity should exist only when the transaxle is in Park or Neutral. 4

Check for continuity between the two

outer terminals. Continuity should exist only when the transaxle is in Reverse. No continuity should exist between either outer terminal and the case. 5 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it with a new one.

Replacement 6 Position a drain pan under the switch to catch, the fluid released when the switch is removed. If not already done, unplug the electrical connector from the switch. 7 Unscrew the switch from the transaxle, using a box-end wrench to avoid damage to the switch housing (see illustration) 8 Move the shift lever from Park to Neutral while checking that the switch operating fingers are centered in the opening. 9 Install the new switch, tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and plug in the connector. Repeat the checks

8.6

ieaw

HOUSING

BOLTS

|

Locations of the upper bellhousing bolts

on the new switch. 10 Check the fluid level and add fluid as required (see Chapter 1).

air injection pump (see Chapter 6). 3 Remove the air cleaner and the air injection pump support bracket. 4 Disconnect the transaxle shift and throttle position cables and fasten them out of the

8

way.

Automatic transaxle - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.10, 8.12, 8.16a, 8.16b, 8.17, 8.20 and 8.24

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, remove the

5 Support the engine from above with the special fixture (see illustration), or from below with a jack (place a block of wood between the jack and the engine oil pan to prevent damage).

6

Remove

the upper bellhousing

bolts

(see illustration). 7 Remove the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7a, Section 5) and unplug all electrical connectors (see illustration).

8.7

Transaxle left side -

A-604 and 41TE Ultradrive Transaxle cooler lines Eight-pin connector

Solenoid assembly cover

oOhmoms

PRNDL switch Neutral start switch Output speed sensor

Input turbine speed sensor

A NOOO

ay

Chapter 7 PartB

Automatic transaxle

ENGINE OIL PAN

ud

Fike DRIVE PLATE

8.12

Be sure to mark the torque converter and driveplate so they can be reattached in the same position

/NEUTRAL/PARK

THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE

DIPSTICK

TI TY 8.16a

ER OIL HOSE FROM GOQLER 8.16b

Location of one of the cooler hoses (three-speed automatic)

Locations of a cooler hose and the neutral start switch

(A-604 Ultradrive)

8 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 9 Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1). 10 Remove the under-vehicle and left splash shields (see illustration). 11 Remove the torque converter cover. 12 Mark the torque converter and driveplate so they can be reinstalled in the same position (see illustration).

mounts and the engine mount bracket on the front crossmember (see Chapter 2).

13

removal.

23

25

Remove the torque converter-to-drive-

preferably a special jack made for this pur-

the transaxle to the engine.

pose.

24 Move the transaxle back to disengage it from the engine block dowel pins. You may

Safety chains will help steady the

transaxle on the jack (see illustration). 21 Remove any other chassis or suspension components that will interfere with the transaxle removal. 22 Remove the front and left engine

Remove

the remaining

bolts securing

plate bolts. Turn the crankshaft with a large access to each of the driveplate bolts.

18

to the transaxle with wire from two bolt holes 180-degrees apart so it won’t fall out during Lower the transaxle from the vehicle.

—J

LOWER CONTROL RM

8.17 Removing the sway bar mount bolts

On models so equipped, disconnect the

vacuum hose(s). 19 Remove any exhaust components that will interfere with the transaxle removal (see Chapter 4). 20 Support the transaxle with a jack -

tration). Note: Secure the torque converter

v|

wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to gain 14 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). 15 Remove the driveaxles (see Chapter 8). 16 Disconnect the fluid cooler hoses at the transaxle and plug them (see illustrations). 17 Loosen the sway bar bushing bolts, then unbolt the ends from the lower control arms and pull the sway bar down out of the way (see illustration).

have to use a prybar or a large screwdriver to

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