136 96
English Pages 296 Year 1973
ROO ae
SR
Datsun Owners
~ Workshop Manual a
er
Nee ee
Associate Member
and
of the Gutid uf Met-
+).
BL Chalmers- Hur
TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA
Models covered:
UK:
USA:
Datsun Datsun Datsun Datsun
160 180 180 180
B B B B
Saloon, 1595 cc Saloon, 1770 cc Coupe SSS, 1770 cc (to November 1973) Estate, 1770 cc
Datsun 610 Sedan, 108 cu in and 119 cu in Datsun 610 Hardtop, 108 cu in and 119 cu in Datsun 610 Wagon, 108 cu in and 119 cu in Does not cover 5-speed gearbox
ISBN
©
0 85696
119
1
JH Haynes and Company Limited 1973, 1975
All rights any form recording in writing
reserved. or by any or by any from the
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.
Printed in England
(119-947)
JH HAYNES AND COMPANY LIMITED SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND distributed in the USA by
HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC. 9421 WINNETKA AVENUE CHATSWORTH LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA 91311 USA
Acknowledgements Our thanks must go to Nissan Motor
Company
Limited of
Japan for the use of some of their technical illustrations. Castro! Limited and Champion Limited gave their usual help
with lubrication and spark plugs, respectively. Les Burch edited the text.
About this manual f
The aim of this book is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in two ways. First it can help you decide what work must be done, even should you choose to have it done by a garage; the routine maintenance and the diagnosis and course of action when random faults occur. But it is hoped that you will also use the second and fuller purpose by tackling the work yourself. This can give you the satisfaction of doing the job
yourself. On the simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, much money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover their labour and overheads. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. The tasks are described in a step by step sequence so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. Such a person is often the very one to buy a car needing repair, yet be unable to afford garage costs. The jobs are described assuming only normal spanners are available, and not special tools. But a reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment. Many special workshop tools
produced by the manufacturer merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job without them, the often quoted example being the use of a large hose clip to compress the piston rings for insertion in the cylinder. But on a very few occasions the special tool is essential, to prevent damage to components, then their use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool, such work may have to be entrusted to the official Datsun dealer. To avoid labour costs a garage will often give a cheaper repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be
helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor spare part. The classic case is repairing a non functioning starter motor by fitting new brushes.
The manufacturer's official workshop manuals are written for their trained staff, and so assume special knowledge; detail is left out. This book is written for the owner, and so goes into such detail. * The book is divided into Thirteen Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs. Illustrations are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the refer-
ence will be given in Chapter number and Section number thus: Chapter 1/16. lf it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is e.g. ‘Chapter 1/5:5’. Cross references given without the use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to sections in the same Chapter, e.g. ‘see Section 8’ means also ‘in this Chapter’,
When
the left or right side of a car is mentioned it is as if
looking forward from the rear of the vehicle.
Great
effort
has
been
made
to ensure
that this book
is
complete and up to date. The manufacturers continually modify
their cars, even in retrospect. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.
G24, 2222
Contents Chapter & Title
Section
1 Engine
a
.
a
i
2 Cooling system
Page
Section
Page
Acknowledgements
2
List ofillustrations
About this manual
2
Routine maintenance
Ordering spare parts Use of English glossary
6 7
Recommended lubricants Lubrication Chart
8-10
11-13
General description Removal Dismantling
24 Reassembly 24 ~=—-Refitting 27 ~—s Start up after overhaul
45 60 60
Decarbonisation
40
Fault diagnosis
62
Water pump
67
a
a
ee
General description
63
Draining, flushing, filling
64 _ ~=+Fan belt
67
Radiator 64 _ ~=Anti-freeze Thermostat 67 ‘Fault diagnosis Ee eee 3 Carburation and exhaust emission General description 73 Exhaust emission control Fuel pump 73 Dual contact breaker Carburettors 76 Evaporation control
Fuel tank a a
85 = Fault diagnosis a Ee
4 Ignition system
Contact breaker points Condenser Distributor
98 98 101
5 Clutch and actuating mechanism
Bleeding Inspection Removal and refitting
6 Gearbox and automatic transmission
14 15
67 70 eee,
88 92 93
ee
96 ee
Timing Spark plugs Fault diagnosis
101 103 106
103.
Master cylinder
110
109 109
Sleeve cylinder Fault diagnosis
112 114
Removal and replacement
117
Dismantling (4 speed)
122
Dismantling (3 speed)
117.
Synchro hub dismantling
129
Reassembly
121
Synchro hub reassembly
129
Input shaft (3 speed) Gearchange lever
120 122
Input shaft (4 speed) Main shaft (4 speed)
129 130
Automatic transmission
137
Fault diagnosis (Manual)
149
7 Propeller shaft
Removal and replacement
153
Universal joints Fault diagnosis
153 154
8 Rear axle
Final drive (IRS) Axle bearing and shaft
158 165
Differential assembly
166
9 Braking system
Adjustments Bleeding Disc removal and replacement
168 170 172
Drum shoes Master cylinder Vacuum servo
10 Electrical system
Colour coding Battery Alternator Voltage regulator
11 Suspension and steering
Front wheel hub
ee
re
ec
13 Supplement for 2000cc (119 cu in) model
Fault diagnosis
183/184
187 187 190 191
Starter motor Lights Windscreen wipers Wiring diagrams
192 193 195 206/214
221
Steering gearbox
232
223 226 230
Steering wheel Steering column ~=Fault diagnosis ee
236 237 238
Maintenance
239
Bonnet
Repairs
240
Boot
Bumpers
240
Doors
Front axle and suspension Rear suspension Drive shaft ee ee
12 Bodywork and underframe
172 175 177
:
a
ee
ee
eee
242
lid
Heater Sree ek ee ene
242
244
a
251/253
254
Metric conversion table Index
29 oO
Introduction to the Datsun The
known
range
as the
of Datsuns covered by this workshop
Bluebird
series.
In the
United
manual
Kingdom
are
they
“have the designation 160B for the 1595 cc saloon, the 180B for the 1770 cc saloon and estate car and the 180SSS for the two door ‘hardtop’ coupe. In North America the whole range has the designation ‘610’ - the smaller engined saloon is not available in that market, however. First introduced in 1972 to both markets they were a replace-
ment for the 1300/1400/1600 range in the UK but ran alongside that same range in North America, there known
as the ‘510’,
at least until late 1973. The cars are based on the 510 chassis using many similar components - their engines and gearboxes are very similar too. The body shells are completely different and froma glance the cars appear to be from different manufacturers. Whereas the 510 was boxy and European the 610 is much rounder and definitely of Japanese extraction. Construction is very rugged and the larger engined versions have a very healthy performance with surprising petrol economy. These models have proven very successful in both markets further establishing the manufacturer's already good reputation. a
.
GHNEN™
Datsun 180B Estate (UK Market) USA Datsun 610 Wagon differs very little
Buying spare
parts
and vehicle identification Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Datsun garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Datsun garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-Datsun components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also
numbers sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening charge lower prices and can often be found not far from Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the important components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems,
cylinders/piges/hoses/seals/shoes
and
pads etc). Motor
more brake
factors
will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublished process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical
basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential to correct identification of the component required. The car identification plate is attached to the centre of the top of the bulkhead and is visible when the bonnet is fully open. The car number is stamped on a plate attached to the top of the bulkhead. The engine number is on the rear right-hand side of the cylinder block.
[ENGINE CAPACITY AX HPotRPM | CE CAR NO. és
NISSAN MOTOR ¢ YOKOHAMA
Engine number plate
hours, home.
Chassis number plate
Use of English
7
As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare
Parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:
oe
SR ene
ES
SS
Sieiatieet takechnanhGaneeeicareimoerener crescent
ca
a
a
Glossary
ee
ee
sige
test Uy
English American i ealietaaliepewattbaiqracrerheee-ok eaeenhk oc:adhe bigece tie Siete
English ee
Accelerator
Gas pedal
Layshaft (of gearbox)
Counter shaft
I
American as ee
as
Alternator
‘Generator (AC)
Leading shoe (of brake)
Primary shoe
Anti-roll bar
Stabiliser or sway bar
Locks
Latches
Choke/venturi
Barrel
Motorway
Battery
Energizer
Number plate
Licence plate
Bonnet (engine cover Boot lid a wp Boot (luggage compartment)
Hood Trunk lid Trunk
Paraffin Petrol Petrol tank
Kerosene Gasoline Gas tank
Bottom gear Bulkhead
1st gear Firewall
‘Pinking’ Quarter light
‘Pinging’ Quarter window
Camfollower or tappet
Valve lifter or tappet
Retread
Recap
Carburettor Catch Circlip Clearance
Carburetor Latch Snap ring Lash
Reverse Rocker cover Roof rack Saloon
Back-up Valve cover Car-top carrier Sedan
Crownwheel
Ring gear (of differential)
Seized
Disc (brake)
Rotor/disk
Side indicator lights
Driveshaft
Propellor shaft
Side light
Drop arm Drop head coupe
Pitman arm Convertible
Silencer Spanner
Dynamo Earth (electrical)
Generator (DC) Ground
Sill panel (beneath doors) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)
se
ave
BE
ee!
Freeway, turnpike etc.
ee
Frozen Side marker lights
Parking light * on
Muffler Wrench
ae
Rocker panel Lock (for valve spring retainer)
Engineer’s blue
Prussion blue
Split pin
Estate car
Station wagon
Steering arm
Spindle arm
Exhaust manifold
Header
Sump
Oil pan
Fast back (Coupe) Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber
Hard top Trouble shooting Float bowl
Tab washer Tailgate Tappet
Tang; lock Liftgate Valve lifter
Free-play
Lash
Thrust bearing
Freewheel
Coast
Top gear
Gudgeon pin Gearchange
Piston pin or wrist pin Shift
Trackrod (of steering Trailing shoe (of brake)
Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe
Gearbox
Transmission
Transmission
Whole drive line
Halfshaft Handbrake Hood Hot spot
Axle-shaft Parking brake Soft top Heat riser
Tyre Van Vice Wheel nut
Tire Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut
Indicator
Turn signal
Windscreen
Windshield
Interior light
Dome lamp
Wing/mudguard
Fender
Cotter pin
Throw-out bearing High
ate
:
Miscellaneous points An “‘Oil seal’’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A “Damper” is a ‘Shock absorber’ it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result. The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most uncommon. Therefore the phrase ‘‘Primary” or “Secondary” shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading or Trailing. A “Leading” shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.
List of illustrations
ep
ee
Page
Fig. No.
Page
Fig. No.
CHAPTER 1 1.23. Dp
44
Withdrawing camshaft sprocket
1.1
Cylinder block, sump and front cover assembly
1.2
Cylinder head components
23
1.24
Correct fitment of camshaft oil seals
44
1.3. 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7.
Piston, connecting rod and crankshaft assembly Camshaft and overload valve assemblies Oil filter removal using strap wrench Removal of rocker arm Valve and rocker assemblies - components
25 26 34 34 34
1.25 1.26 1.27. 1.28 1.29
Measuring piston ring gap in bore with gauge Measurement of ring side clearance in groove Correct fitment of piston rings Measurement of piston fit in cylinder bore Slackening sequence for camshaft main cap bolts
44 44 50 50 50
1.8
Camshaft sprocket location
34
1.30
Crankshaft main bearing end cap
50
1.9 1.10 1.11
Wooden wedge dimensions Cylinder head bolts - slackening sequence Special tool for removal of cylinder head bolts
36 36 36
1.31 1.32 1.33
Special tool for removing rear bearing and cap Use of special tool to remove rear bearing end cap Removal of crankshaft rear oil seal
55 55 55
1.12
Drawing camshaft through bearings
36
1.34
Engine lubrication system
56
1.13 1.14 1.15 1.16 1.17 1.18 1.19 1.20 1.21 1.22
Inlet and exhaust manifolds Valve and guide wear check Valve guide fitting dimensions Component parts of oil pump Checking oil pump for wear Oil suction pipe and strainer Aligning pulley and pointer timing marks Component parts of camshaft drive mechanism Camshaft thrust plate Removal of timing chain tensioner and guides
37 S7/ 37 37 40 41 44 44 44 44
1.35 1.36 1.37 1.38 1.39 1.40 1.41 1.42 1.43
Sealer main bearing cap and cylinder block Checking crankshaft end float Fitting new seals Correct positioning of piston and con rods Using feeler gauge for bearing side play Tightening order for cylinder head bolts Correct fitment of timing chain Fitting front cover to cylinder block Crankshaft ventilation system
56 57 57 57 57 58 58 58 60
2.1
Cooling system
65
2.6
Alternative water pump assembly (2)
68
2.2 2.3. 2.4
Radiator assembly Renewal of gasket and thermostat Removal of water pump
65 66 66
2.7. 2.8 2.9
Alternative water pump assemblies (3 and 4) Fluid coupling water pump Correct fan belt tension
68 69 69
2.5
Alternative water pump assembly (1)
66
3.1.
Air cleaner assembly (SC model)
73
3.24
Measurement of fast idle opening
82
3.2 3.3. 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7. 3.8
Fuel pump component parts Renewal of diaphragm Carburettor fitted to engine - manual transmission Carburettor fitted to engine - automatic transmission Idle compensator - hose connections Sectional view of carburettor Fuel flow at full throttle - low speed
74 74 75 75 75 76 77
3.25 3.26 3.27 3.28 3.29 3.30 3.31
Engine idle adjustment Accelerator control Twin carburettor installation Sectional view of SU carburettor Piston and suction chamber assembly Jet assembly components Float chamber components
82 83 84 84 85° 85 86
CHAPTER
CHAPTER
.
2
3
:
3.9
Fuel flow at full throttle - high speed
W
3.32
Float chamber adjustment
86
3.10 3.11
Components of accelerator pump Float chamber components
78 78
3.33 3.34
Refitting jet needle to piston Sectional view of cartridge fuel filter
86 86
3.12
Removal of emulsion tubes
78
3.35
Fuel tank and attachments (Saloon)
87
3.13
Removal of choke tube
78
3.36
Fuel tank and attachments (Estate)
87
3.14 3.15
Throttle chamber removed from main body Removal of throttle valve
78 78
3.37 3.38
Fuel pipes and hoses Crankcase emission control components
88 89
3.16 3.17 3.18 3.19 3.20
Adjustment of fuel level Adjustment of float seat Adjustment of float stopper Measurement of interlock opening Adjustment of interlock opening
79 79 79 79 80
3.39 3.40 3.41 3.42
Engine emission control Components Layout of air injection system Operation of emission control system Emisssion control system, saloon and estate - manual gearbex
89 90 91
3.21 3.22
Measurement of dash pot operating clearance Diaphragm component parts
80 81
3.43
Emission control system, saloon and estate - auto: transmission
3.23
Adjustment of fast idle opening
81
3.44 3.45
Air pump and hose connections before July 1969 Air pump and hose connections after July 1969
92 94 95
3.46
The exhaust systems
96
CHAPTER
4
4.1 4.2
Ignition system - theoretical circuit Sectional view single contact breaker distributor
4.3. 4.4 4.5
Twincontact breaker points - phase difference Distributor - single contact breaker - components Distributor with twin contact breakers- components
4.6 4.7
Feeler gauge measuring gap between points Contact breaker points - component parts
4.8
Removal of contact breaker assembly
4.9
Removal of contact breaker plate from distributor
103
5.1
Clutch components
5.2
109
Diaphragm spring clutch components
5.7
110
5.8
£8) 99
4.10 4.11.
100 100 102
4.12 4.13 4.14
102 102
4.15 4.16
102
4.17
CHAPTER
92
Use of parallel pin punch Removal of cam and spindle Removal of cam retaining screw Correct setting of governor spring and cam Adjusting ignition timing (twin breakers)
Adjusting ignition timing Ignition system HT cables and minor components
Spark plug conditions
=a
103 103 103 104 104
104 105
106
5
. Using universal puller Location of grease in release bearing carrier
Vaz ae
5.3 5.4 5,5 5.6
Clutch pedal - height adjustment
Clutch cover assembly Clutch centralization tool Clutch bell housing
5.9 5.10 5.11
Inserting snap ring to synchromesh hub Fitting spring inserts
One piece propeller shaft - major components Two piece propeller shaft - major components
CHAPTER 7 152 7.3 153 74
mounting attachments of crossmember of rear extension housing securing bolts of cross shaft of lay gear cross shaft of reverse idler and gear shaft
Removal of interlock plug Removal of mainshaft gear assemblies Removal of input shaft Using circlip pliers to release 2nd & 3rd gear hub circlip
Removal of 2nd & 3rd gear hub Removal of mainshaft 2nd gear Removal of speedometer drive gear and spacer
Lifting away main shaft gear assembly
Check baulk ring for wear by rocking Section of synchromesh unit Fitting shifting inserts to synchromesh hub
Handbrake rear cable, propeller shaft & drive shaft Differential carrier mounting bracket attachments Differential carrier removel
Refitting differential carrier mounting bracket
Final drive - (Saloon) - component parts Using universal puller to withdraw the side flange Sectional view of drive pinion Using feeler gauge - clearance side gear - thrust washers
Front drum - brake adjustment Rear drum brake adjustment Removal of front flexible pipe Front disc brake caliper components Removal of anti-rattle clip Lifting away the pad Easing piston back into caliper cylinder Sectional views of disc brake Use of dial indicator gauge to measure runout
Front drum brake assembly Use of two bolts to draw off a very tight brake Internal components of front wheel cylinder Rear drum brake assembly
Rear brake with drum removed Internal components of rear wheel cylinder
Brake master cylinder (without servo unit) 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5
111 111 111 112
CHAPTER 6 117 6.26 6.27 117 6.28 117 6.29 117 6.30 118 6.31 118 6.32 118 6.33 118 6.34 118 6.35 118 6.36 119 6.37 119 6.38 119 6.39 119 6.40 119 6.41 6.42 119 6.43 119 6.44 119 6.45 121 121 6.46 121 6.47 121 6.48 129 6.49 129 6.50 129
Disconnecting handbrake cable Disconnecting speedometer cable from extension housing Removal of propeller shaft Disconnection of remote control gearchange linkage Location of control switches Disconnection of clutch slave cylinder
Gearbox Removal Removal Removal Removal Removal
9
List of illustrations
———————
Alternator - major components Battery - charging circuit Voltage regulator with cover removed Construction of V.R. Construction of charging relay
CHAPTER 158 158 158 158 159 160 160
8 8.9 8.10 8.11 8.12 8.13 8.14 8.15 8.16
160 CHAPTER 9 169 9.17 169 9.18 169 9.19 169 9.20 169 9721 171 ore 171 9.23 171 9.24 174 9.25 174 9.26 174 O27 175 9.28 176 9.29 176 9.30 176 9.31 176 CHAPTER 188 188 189 189 189
Clutch master cylinder Clutch slave cylinder attachments Clutch slave cylinder - components
113 113 113
2nd & 3rd gear synchromesh snap ring replacement Fitting the hub to 1st gear Correct positioning of oil seals Interlock mechanism fitted to main casing Using feeler gauges to check end float Grease points - clutch release mechanism 3 speed column gear change linkage RHD Upper bracket removal
Cross shaft assembly Lower bracket removal Removal of rear extension housing Gearbox external components (4 speed)
Gearbox internal components (4 speed) Gear selector mechanism (4 speed) Mainshaft assembly
Reverse idler gear assembly Interlock mechanism fitted to main casing Correct assembly of fork rods Automatic transmission - main components Main components - external casing and torque
converter Automatic transmission - removal
Automatic transmission gear contro! (floor)
145 145 146 146 147
Automatic transmission gear control (column) Downshift cam positions Fault diagnosis chart - auto: transmission
148
Centre bearing bracket attachments - securing bolts Using a soft hammer to tap bearing cap from yoke
154 154
Refitting side retainer Tooth marking for crownwheel Removal of pinion flange Removal of side flange Removal of securing nuts Cutting bearing retainer collar Axle shaft component parts Crownwheel differential assembly - component
160 161 162 162 162 162 162
parts (Estate)
163
Brake master cylinder (with servo unit)
177 178 178 178 178 179 179 179 179 181 181 181 182 183 183
Sectional view of disc brake master cylinder Sectional view of servo unit Brake pedal assembly Correct location of grease in pedal pivot Brake pedal adjustment Handbrake rear cable adjuster
Handbrake centre lever assembly Handbrake linkage Handbrake rear cable assembly (Saloon) Location and sectional view of check valve Hydraulic brake pipe layout Sectional view of warning light switch Sectional view of N.P. valve Brake fluid level gauge
10 10.27 Cluster securing screws 10.28 Ignition switch - steering column
10.29 Steering lock and ignition
switch
10.30 Adjustment of panel assembly 1 10.31 Adjustment of panel assembly 2
198 199 199 199 200
10 2 we
ee
ee ee
10.6 10.7 10.8 10.9 10.10
Starter motor - electrical circuit Starter motor - component parts Measurement of pinion gap Headlamp assembly Headlight - beam adjustment points
10.11
Front, parking & direction indicator assembly
10.12 Side, flasher and marker light 10.13 Rear direction indicator, stop & tail liaht assemblies
List of illustrations 189 190 191 191 191 192 192 196
(Saloon) 10.14 Rear direction indicator, stop & tail light assemblies
196 196 197, 197 Reverse light assembly 197 Centre interior light assembly 197 Rear interior light assembly 197 Horn circuit 198 Horn adjustment 198 Windscreen wiper motor and linkage 198 Wiring circuit - wiper motor Windscreen wiper motor shaft to linkage securing nut 198 198 Lifting away windscreen wiper linkage - removal 198 Windscreen washer assembly
(Estate) 10.15 Number plate light (Saloon) 10.16 Number plate light (Estate) 10.17 10.18 10.19 10.20 10.21 10.22 10.23 10.24 10.25
10.26
11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 17:5 11.6 11.7 11.8
Front axle and suspension assembly Removal of hub nut Removal of wheel hub Removal of bearing outer race Parts of wheel bearing to be inspected Correct packing of grease into hub
Removal of disc to hub securing bolts
Tension rod attachments Tension rod bracket securing bolts 11.10 Stabilizer bar bracket attachment Engine mounting bolts 11.12 Suspension cross member attachments
11.13 Adjustment of clearance 11.14 Strut assembly Bolts securing strut to knuckle arm 11.16 Using pry bar to detach knuckle arm 11.17 Strut upper securing nuts Lifting strut assembly from under wings 11.19 Spring and strut assembly
11.20 Sectional view of gland packing Bleeding the shock absorber system 11.22 Section through top of strut assembly 11.23 Transverse link securing nuts 11.24 Transverse link inner attachment Lower ball joint free movement 11.26 Rear axle and suspension assembly (IRS) Rear suspension attachment points Removal of rear axle and suspension assembly 11.29 Items to be disconnected for removal of coil spring Lifting away coil spring
12.1
12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 12.8 12.9 12.10 12.11 12.12 12.13
Front bumper assembly Rear bumper stay securing bolts Rear number plate & light assembly Radiator grille upper securing screw etc. Radiator grille lower securing screw
Front apron to wing attachment Screws securing front apron to bonnet lock stay
Front wing attachments Cowl top grille assembly Bonnet lock cable control Bonnet lock assembly Adjustment of bonnet lock Detaching torsion bar end
12.14 Torsion bar assembly (LHS) 12.15 Boot lid lock securing screws etc. 12.16 Tailgate torsion bar attachment
10.32 10.33 10.34 10.35 10.36 10.37 10.38 10.39 10.40 10.41 10.42 10.43 10.44 10.45 10.46 10.47 10.48 10.49 10.50 10.51 10.52 10.53
CHAPTER 220 222 222 222 222 222 222 222 223 223 223 223 225 225 225 225 225 225 227 227 227 227 227 227 227 228 228 228 228 229
11 11.31 11.32 11.33 11.34 11.35 11.36 11.37 11.38 11.39 11.40 11.41 11.42 11.43 11.44 11.45 11.46 11.47 11.48 11.49 11.50 11.51 11.52 11.53 11.54 LS 11.56 11.57 11.58 11.59
CHAPTER 241 241 241 241 241 241 241 242 243 243 243 243 243 243 244 244
12 12.17 12.18 12.19 12.20 12.21 12522 12.23 12.24 12.25 12.26 12.27 12.28 12.29 12.30 12.31
Cluster lid securing screws - lower Cluster lid securing screws - upper
200 200
Speedometer head - removal
200
Circuit diagram - fuel gauge etc. Renewal of fuel or water temperature gauge Oil pressure warning light system Circuit diagram - handbrake warning system Alternator warning light circuit Tachometer cable connections Electric clock cable connections Radio installation
200 200 202 202 202 203 203 203
Fuse box Fusible link Cable harness - engine bay
203 203 208
Details of connectors - engine bay
209
Details cable harness - rear of instrument panel 210 Details of cable harness connectors - instrument panel 211 Cable harness and connectors - body & rear indicators 212
Circuit diagram - lighting system LHD Circuit diagram - lighting system RHD
213 213
Circuit diagram - lighting system (RH & LHD)
214
Circuit diagram - back-up lighting etc.
214
Detachment points for brake hose and
tube
229
Removal of wheel bearing locknut
229
Backplate securing bolts
229
Removing suspension arm securing nuts Use of slide hammer to remove rear axle shaft Removal of oil seal and inner bearing Sectional view rear axle shaft and housing
229 229 229 229
Drive shaft components Drive shaft lubrication points Mating marks on axle & distance piece Rear axle & suspension assembly - components Upper shock absorber mounting Slackening lower shock absorber mounting Shock absorber - lower end
231 2aA 231 231 233 233 233
Spring rear shackle Spring front shackle
2335 233
Steering system - components Rubber coupling securing bolt Steering box mountings Sectional view of steering gear assembly Removal of sector shaft cover Measurement of end play - sector shaft etc. Final adjustment of steering gearbox Steering linkage components Sectional view of side rod ball joint Rigid steering column Collapsible steering column Fitting sequence for column assembly
Column clamp dimensions
233 233 233 234 234 234 234 234 236 236 236 PRET 237
Tailgate lock & striker assembly Front door lock & window regulator
244 245
Front door lock and window regulator (HT)
247
Rear door lock and window winder assembly Rear side window glass Centre console assembly Sectional view of heater unit Heater & ventilation system - components
248 249 249 250 250
Control cable retaining clamp Instrument panel assembly Instrument lid cluster securing screws Cluster lid securing screws Left & centre cluster securing screws Complete instrument panel securing bolts . Front and rear seat assemblies
250 250
250 250 250 252 253
Routine maintenance Introduction 1 In the schedule that follows this introduction is tabulated the routine servicing that should be done on the car. This work has two important functions. First is that of doing adjustments and lubrication to ensure the least wear and greater efficiency. But the second function, could almost be more important. By looking your car over, on top and underneath, you have the Opportunity to check that al! is in order. 2 Every component should be looked at, your gaze working systematically over the whole car. Dirt cracking near a nut or a flange can indicate something loose. Leaks will show. Electric cables rubbing, rust appearing through the paint underneath, will also be found before they bring on a failure on the road, or a more expensive repair if not tackled quickly. 3 The tasks to be done on the car are in general those recommended by the manufacturer. We have also put in some additional ones. For someone having his servicing done at a
garage it may be more economical to purchase, and fit, a new or reconditioned component. Your garage proprietor has many things to consider when giving you a quote for any work, e.g. labour costs, availability of his labour force, overheads etc - you
may
therefore
make
considerable
savings
in time
and
costs
provided you know that you are capable of tackling the job and are prepared to do it. To leave an obviously developing fault ‘until the next service’ may prove costly and even disastrous - do it now! 4 When you are checking the car, if something looks wrong, look it up in the appropriate Chapter. If something seems to be
working badly look in the fault finding section. 5 Always road test after a repair, and inspect the work after it, and check nuts etc., for tightness. Check again after about 150 miles. Tools 1 The most useful type of spanner is a ‘combination spanner’. This has one end open jaw, the other a ring of the same size. Alternatively a set of open ended and ring spanners will be required. Whenever possible use a ring spanner as it will not slip otf the bolt or nut especially when very tight. Remember metric size tools are required. 2 You will need a set of feeler gauges. Preferably these should be metric sizes but if an imperial set are to hand the equivalents are quoted throughout this manual. 3 You will see we specify tightening torques for nuts. This needs an expensive torque wrench. Many people get on well without them. Contrariwise many others are plagued by things falling off or leaking from being too loose, whilst others suffer broken bolts, stripped threads, or warped cylinder heads, because of overtightening. 4 Torque wrenches use the socket of normal socket spanner sets. Sockets, with extensions and ratchet handles, are a boon. In the meantime you will need box spanners for such things as cylinder head attachments, and the spark plugs. They are thinner than sockets in small sizes, and will go where the latter cannot, so will always be useful even if later you plan to get sockets. 5 Screwdrivers should have large handles for a good grip. You need a large ordinary one, a little electrical one, and a medium cross-headed one. Do not purchase one handle with interchangeable heads. The large screwdriver must have a tough
handle that will take hitting with a hammer when you mis-use it as a chisel. 6 You can use an adjustable spanner and a self grip or pipe wrench of the Mole or Stillsons type. 7 With these tools you will get by. Do not purchase cheap ones but be prepared to spend a little extra. They will last far longer. 8 If you undertake major dismantling of the engine or transmission you will need a drift. This is a steel or soft metal rod about 3/8 inch in diameter. Where possible use the steel drift which will withstand hammering. Do not use brass as little chips can fly off, unknowingly get into the component and ruin it. You will need a ‘ball pein’ hammer, fairly heavy too, because it is easier to use gently, than a light one hard. 9 Files are soon needed. Four makes a good selection. 6 inch half round smooth 8 inch flat second cut 8 inch round second cut 10 inch half round bastard. 10 You will need a good, firm, hydraulic jack. A trolley jack is of major value when removing any of the major units. If you do ever get one, it must be in addition to, and cannot replace the simple jack, which is needed for the smaller jobs. 11 The manufacturers base their own servicing operations on a 3,000 mileage basis. Two free services are carried out on a new car at 600 miles and 2,000 miles. A further small service is carried out at 4,000 miles and then the service scheme settles down to 3,000 mile intervals. 12 The maintenance information given is not detailed in this section as information will be found in the appropriate chapters of this book. 13 Because of the US Federal Regulations for exhaust emission several modifications have been made to the engine and ancillary equipment. This equipment should not be tampered with unless absolutely necessary. The car must then be taken to the local Datsun garage so that any adjustments necessary, as indicated by expensive electronic test equipment may be made. In the following schedule these items are marked. *Further information will be found in the relevant Chapters.
Daily
Check radiator coolant level.
Check engine oil level. Check battery electrolyte level. Check tyre pressures. Examine tread depth and for other signs of damage. Check operation of all lights. Check windscreen washer fluid level. Check brake and clutch master cylinder reservoir hydraulic fluid level.
First 4,000 (5,000 Km) 1 2 3
mile
(6,000
Km)
service - thereafter 3,000 miles
Change engine oil. Check gearbox oil level and top up if necessary. Check rear axle oil level and top up if necessary.
12 4
Routine maintenance Check
torque
converter
oil level and
top up
if necessary
(automatic transmission only). 5 Check fan belt tension. 6 Check spark plugs and reset electrode gap. 7 Check contact breaker points gap and reset as necessary. Clean distributor cap and rotor arm. 8 Check engine idling speed* 9
Check all fuel lines and joints for leakage. Check tightness of
clips. 10 Clean air cleaner element with an air jet (paper element type
only). 11 Check brake pipes and hoses for damage or leakage. Also check handbrake linkage for security. 12 Check steering linkage and attachments for security. 13 Check disc brake friction pads for wear. 14 Check ignition timing* 15 Check cooling system for leaks.
47 Check operational efficiency of shock absorbers. Ensure mountings are secure. 48 Check tightness of anti-roll bar attachments. 49 Check tightness of door locks, catches and hinges. 50 Check front wheel alignment (Datsun garage). 51 Remove brake drums, check linings and drum friction surfaces. ; 52 Check transmission mountings and attachments for security. 53 Check steering. gearbox mountings for security. 54 Check operation of brake vacuum servo unit. 55 Tune engine using electric test equipment (Datsun dealer)* 56 Check HT leads for damage and secure connections. Check ignition LT leads for security. 57 Check complete exhaust emission control system efficiency*
15,000 mile (25,000 Km) service Carry out the service items in the first 4,000 mile service.
6,000 mile (10,000 Km) service Carry out the following service items from the first 4,000 mile service, Nos 1 to 15 inclusive except No 9, plus: 16 Lubricate steering linkage. 17 Check steering gearbox oil level. 18 Lubricate carburettor linkage and accelerator pedal pivot. 19 Lubricate distributor rotor shaft and contact breaker points arm pivot. Grease distributor cam heel. 20 Lubricate handbrake linkage, clutch and brake pedal pivots. 21 Lubricate automatic transmission selector linkage. 22 Lubricate door hinges, bonnet and boot lid hinges and locks. 23 Lubricate all grease nipples. 24 Change engine oil filter. 25 Drain, flush and refill cooling system (except where Nissan
Long Life Coolant is used). 26 Check
tightness of cylinder head and manifold attachments.
27 Check and clean fuel filter. 28 Check and adjust valve clearances. 29 Check tightness of battery connections. Clean off corrosion and apply vaseline to terminals.
30 31 32 33 34 35
Check operating efficiency of charging system. Clean oil filler cap. Check front and rear suspension attachments for security. Check propeller shaft joints for wear. Check front wheel bearings for wear. Change round wheels in diagonal manner, also using the spare to equalise tyre wear.
18,000 mile (30,000 Km) service Carry out the service items in the 6,000 mile service.
21,000 mile (35,000 Km) service Carry out the service items in the first 4,000 mile service.
24,000 mile (40,000 Km) service Carry out the following service items: Nos 1,4,5,8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17 to 28, 29, 30, 32 to 38, 40 to 57 plus:58 Fit new fuel filter. 59 Fit new air cleaner element. 60 Check operation and output pressure of fuel pump. 61 Use garage to test cylinder compression pressures. 62 Clean carburettor float chamber and jets. 63 Check capacity of distributor condenser. 64 Inspect exhaust system for corrosion and mountings for security.
65 Check headlight alignment and adjust as necessary garage). 66 Renew distributor contact breaker points.
(Datsun
36 Balance front wheels (Datsun dealer).
27,000 mile (45,000 Km) servite
37 Check front brake disc for wear or deep grooving.
38 Generally
check
all electrical
cables
for damage
and the
connections for security. 39 Check engine and transmission for oil leaks.
30,000 mile (50,000 Km) service
9,000 mile (15,000 Km) service Carry out the service items in the first 4,000 mile service.
Carry out the following service items: Nos 1, 2, 4, 5, to 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, to 38, 46, 47 plus:-
67 Change rear axle oil. 68 Charge steering linkage and front suspension with grease. 69 Charge propeller shaft joint with grease.
12,000 mile (20,000 Km) service Carry out the following service items: except Nos 6,9 and 16 plus: 40 Change brake system hydraulic fluid.
Carry out the service items in the first 4,000 mile service.
Nos 1-38 inclusive,
41 Fit new spark plugs. 42 Check tightness of engine mountings and all attachments.
43 Check operation of starter motor and the tightness of all cable attachments. 44 Test battery specific gravity. 45 Check crankcase ventilation control valve for correct
70 Change wheel bearing grease. 71 Grease cross shaft of transmission control system.
72 Grease drive shaft and ball spline. 73 Check condition of engine mountings. 74 Overhaul disc brake caliper. 75 Check condition of suspension attachment rubber bushes.
33,000 mile (55,000 Km) service
operation,
46 Check correct function of transmission.
Carry out the service in the first 4,000 mile service.
13 4
36,000 mile (60,000 Km) service ——eeeeeseseseseeseSFsFsaeseseses
eseF
Carry out the service items in the 12,000 mile service.
Other aspects of Routine Maintenance 1 Jacking up Always chock a wheel on the *dpposite side in front and behind. The car’s own jack has to be able to work when the car is very low with a flat tyre, so it locates under the sill (saloon models). On other models a special adaptor must be used on the jack for raising the front. For the rear use the jack under the centre of the spring. 2
Wheel nuts These should be cleaned and lightly smeared with grease as necessary during work, to keep them moving easily. If the nuts are stubborn to undo due to dirt and overtightening, it may be necessary to hold them by lowering the jack till the wheel rests on the ground. Normally if the wheel brace is used across the hub centre a foot or knee held against the tyre will prevent the wheel from turning, and so save the wheels and nuts from wear if the nuts are slackened with weight on the wheel. After replacing a wheel make a point later of rechecking the nuts again for tightness.
3
Safety
Whenever working, even partially, under the car, put an extra strong box or piece of timber underneath onto which the car will fall rather than on you.
Cleanliness Whenever you do any work allow time for cleaning. When
something is in pieces or components removed to improve access to other areas, give an opportunity for a thorough clean. This cleanliness will allow you to cope with a crisis on the road without getting yourself dirty. During bigger jobs when you expect a bit of dirt it is less extreme and can be tolerated at least whilst removing a component. When an item is being taken to Pieces there is less risk of ruinous grit finding its way inside. The act of cleaning focuses your attention onto parts and you are more likely to spot trouble. Dirt on the ignition part is a common cause of poor starting. Large areas such as the engine compartment inner wings or bulkhead should be brushed thoroughly with a solvent like Gunk, allowed to soak and then very carefully hosed down. Water in the wrong places, particularly the carburettor or electrical components will do more harm than dirt. Use petrol or paraffin and a small paintbrush to clean the more inaccessible places. 5
Waste disposal Old oil and cleaning paraffin must be destroyed. Although it makes a good base for a bonfire the practice is dangerous. It is also illegal to dispose of oil and paraffin down domestic drains. By buying your new engine oil in one gallon cans you can refill with old oil and take back to the local garage who have facilities for disposal. 6
Long journeys Before taking the car on long journeys, particularly such trips as continental holidays, make sure that the car is given a thorough check in the form of the next service due, plus a full visual inspection well in advance so that any faults found can be rectified in time.
Recommended
lubricants
Component
Grade
Castrol Grade
Engine
20W/50 Multigrade engine oil
CASTROL
GTX
Manual Gearbox
Hypoid gear oil 90 EP
CASTROL
HYPOY
Automatic Transmission
Types Meets Types Meets
BWL35 and 3N71A Borg-Warner specification BWL41 and 3N71A General Motors specification
CASTROL TOF CASTROL TO DEXRON
R
Rear Axle/Differential
Hypoid gear oil 90 EP
CASTROL
HYPOY B
Steering box
Hypoid gear oil 90 EP
CASTROL
HYPOY
Drive shafts, wheel bearings, suspension joints
High melting point lithium based grease
CASTROL
LM GREASE
Brake Fluid
Exceeds all required specifications
CASTROL GIRLING UNIVERSAL BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID
Cooling System
Glycol based anti-freeze mixed with appropriate quantity of water
CASTROL ANTI-FREEZE
All body fittings and general oiling
Thin universal oil
CASTROL
EVERYMAN
Lubrication chart
Radiator
Front suspension
Front hubs
Steering gearbox
Brake reservoir
Gearbox or Automatic transmission Clutch reservoir
Handbrake linkages
Datsun estate car rear suspension. See next figure for front suspension
Datsun saloons with independent rear suspension. Estate front suspension is identical.
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Chapter 1 Engine Contents
General description Operations with engine in sleek” Operations with engine removed et cas Methods of engine removal as See he Engine - removal with gearbox cee Engine - removal less gearbox ... = aoe Dismantling the engine- general i =e Engine ancillaries - removal Bas See er Engine mountings - removal and replacement Oil filter - removal and replacement be Flywheel - removal, inspection and renovation Rocker arm and pivots - removal and replacement
Pistons, piston rings and cylinder bores - inspection and
renovation = 9
5 ...
Cylinder head and camshaft - removal (engine in car) Cylinder head and camshaft - removal (engine on bench) Camshaft - removal and inspection Inlet and exhaust manifolds - removal and riplacement Cylinder head valves and springs - removal, inspection and renovation ... an = aed Cylinder head- ghearbenisation. one ser Oil pump - removal, inspection and neclacénent aos Engine sump - removal and replacement a aes Oil suction pipe and strainer - removal and replacement Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal and inspection ee ree Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - removal
—
es
st
sis
ifs) 20 21
Flywheel - refitting
a
Crankshaft ventilation system Engine- final assembly.
sa
wee
ze
si
...
aot
we
te
Engine (and transmission) - refitting
22
Engine - initial start up after overhaul or rior tapi
Fault diagnosis
Specifications
General
Engine type
4 cylinder overhead camshaft (OHC)
Engine designation
...
L16S, L18S, L18T
Firing order
Displacement:
Bore:
Stroke;
-
13
-
L168 ... L18S and L18tT
L16S Be ono L18SandL18T . -
L165
-
L18S and L18T
...
re
23g.
42
1595 cc 1770 cc an
om
Crankshaft - removal ane Gnsoenion Main and big end bearing shells - inspection oad conan Lubrication system - general description Engine reassembly- general Crankshaft - replacement me Piston and connecting rod - fsasernpiel Piston ring - replacement —= SCOMANQOORWN Piston - replacement see ise Connecting rod to crankshaft - yelining cae ae Valve and valve spring - reassembly Cylinder head - replacement e nee 2 Camshaft - refitting ae a oie Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets « - sretitting nee pe ee ee ee — OahWN Front cover, drive spindle and oil pump refitting Oil strainer and sump - refitting is we 17 Rocker arms and pivots - reassembly ... sm eS 18 Valve clearance adjustment _... ae PAs oe
3.2677 in (83 mm) 3.3465 in (85 mm) 2.90 in (73.7 mm) 3.07 in (78 mm)
(97.331 cu in) (108.0 cu in)
18
Chapter 1/Engine Engine idle speed:
L16S L16S L18T L18T
-
and L18S (manual) and L18S (automatic) (manual)... oe (automatic) a
Compression ratio:
-
16S and L18S
Oil pressure
=e
L18T =
...
...
aa _...
ote ==
600 rpm 650 rpm
650 rpm 700 rpm
8.5:1 9.5:1
oe
49.8 -56.9 Ib/in2
_
(3.5 - 4.0 kg/cm2)
Engine warm and idling at 2000 rpm Compression pressure (at 350 rpm)
-
L16S and L18S
171 Ib/in2 128 Ib/in2
Standard -
Minimum L18T Standard
Minimum Ignition timing:
L16S L16S L18T L18T
-
and L18S (manual)... and L18S (automatic) (manual) = (automatic) ...
Sump capacity (with filter) (without filter)
Cylinder head Type
...
— ...
ase
Valve Cicarence (reer Inlet ae ah Exhaust
...
coe
Fees
et
ae
bee
aes
eee
(12.0 kg/cm2) (9.0 kg/cm2)
178 Ib/in2
(12.5 kg/cm2)
ase
128 Ib/in2
(9.0 kg/cm2)
ee
10° (600 rpm) 10° (650 rpm)
14° (650 rpm) ae
age
149 (700 rpm) 8.2 pints (4.7 litres, 9.9 US pints) 7.0 pints (4.0 litres, 8.4 US pints) Aluminium alloy one piece
>) Game
0.0098 in (0.25 mm)
8
0.0118 in (0.30 mm)
as
Valve clearance (cold) 0.0079 in (0.20 mm)
Inlet
Exhaust © eS Valve head Gismeten: Inlet Exhaust
aus ....
ins eee
Inlet Exhaust
oes ...
as, nai
0.0098 in (0.25 mm)
Be L16
-
ans sos
saa =
a =
we eee
ive:
ee
1.6535 in (42 mm) 1.2992 in (33 mm)
18 oe Sy
in geinne
ase aes
oer ae
ee, Pas
aa ee
1.6535 in (42 mm) 1.3780 in (35 mm)
age eee
eae ans
fi Se
0.3136 - 0.3142 in 0.3128 - 0.3134 in
(7.965 - 7.980 mm)
aes we
ave —
ee eS
4.524 - 4.535 in 4.555 - 4.567 in
(114.9 - 115.2 mm) (115.7 - 115.0 mm)
aie spe
ue aie
Ses Pe
0.394 in (10.0 mm) 0.413 in (10.5 mm)
ee
0.394 in (10.0 mm)
Valve stem diameter: Inlet =e eed Exhaust ... “e oe Valve length: Inlet see! een se Exhaust ... ase eee Valve lift: L16S and L18S Inlet ake coe Exhaust ... eae Fas L18S
Inlet
eee
Exhaust ... Valve springtype
Se:
Fe
i
a
ae .,
Pee
ee
nas
;
Inlet Exhaust
...-
ses nee
;
0.413 in (10.5 mm) Helical coil
Valve spring free: length: (Inlet) aes
1.766 in (44.85 mm) 1.968 in (49.98 mm)
wae
1.766 in (44.85 mm) 1.968 in (49.98 mm)
(Exhaust) Inner Outer
see
ae
aes
Valve spring eifectivesturns nied Inner
nae
Outer
nes
“3
=)
(Exhaust) Inner
_
Outer
Valve spring wire dfemeter (inted= Inner
Outer
ode
ae
(Exhaust) Inner Outer
ee
36
a
Valve spring coil diameter (Inlet) Inner
tas
F
Outer
(Exhaust) Inner
Outer
(7.945 - 7.960 mm)
5.5 5:0 5.5. 5.0 0.1142 in (2.9 mm)
0.1575 in (4.0 mm)
0.1142 in (2.9 mm) 0.1575 in (4.0 mm) 0.862 in (21.9 mm) 1.150 in (29.4 mm)
1.150 in (29.4 mm) 0.862 in (21.9 mm)
\
Chapter 1/Engine
19
SS —__——
Valve guide type Valve guide length: Inlet Exhaust = Valve guide length hom head surface ’ = Valve guide inner diameter: Inlet Exhaust ... 5 . Valve guide outer diameter: Inlet Exhaust aah Valve guide to stem clearance: Inlet Exhaust ... Valve seat width: Inlet Exhaust Valve seat angle Inlet Exhaust ... is Valve seat interference fit: Inlet Exhaust aan ns Valve guide interference fie: = Cylinder head temperature for fitting vale seat inserts Cylinder head face warp limit
Renewable
2.323 in (59.0 mm) 2.323 in (59.0 mm)
0.417 in (10.6 mm) 0.3150 - 0.3154 in
. 0.3150 - 0.3154 in
0.4733 - 0.4738 in 0.4733 - 0.4738 in 0.0008 - 0.0021 in 0.0016 - 0.0021 in
(12.023 - 12.034 mm) (12.023 - 12.034 mm)
(0.020 - 0.053 mm)
(0.040 - 0.073 mm)
0.0551 in (1.5 mm) 0.0512 in (1.3 mm)
450 450 0.0032 - 0.0044 in 0.0025 - 0.0038 in
(0.081 - 0.113 mm) (0:064 - 0.096 mm)
0.011 - 0.0019 in (0.027 - 0.049 mm) 150 - 200° C (302 - 3929 F)
0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Camshaft and timing chain Camshaft type Number of bearings
Overhead 4, steel backed white metal bush
1.8877 - 1.8883 in 0.0039 in (0.10 mm) 1.8898 - 1.8904 in
Camshaft journal diameter Camshaft journal wear limit
Camshaft bearing diameter Camshaft lobe lift: - . .L16S and L18s Inlet Exhaust
(8.0000 - 8.018 mm) (8.0000 - 8.018 mm)
as
(47.949 - 47.962 mm) (48.00 - 48.016 mm)
0.2618 in (6.65 mm) ae
0.2753 in (7.00 mm)
a
ees
0.2753 in (7.00 mm) 0.2753 in (7.00 mm)
Inlet
Exhaust
Camshaft journal to bearing clearance Bearing clearance limit eri ae Camshaft end float ...
nee
pes
As
at me
Camsha
:
ae
ft sprocket attachment...
f
my
se
mae
Rocker arm lever ratio Crankshaft Type . see = Number of mainBeiearincs see Dae ae End thrust taken at. Thrust clearance Max. thrust clearance Main bearing journal diameter aS Main bearing journal ovality and taper (Max. )
Undersizes (approx - use metric)
mh
ae
nae
Forged steel counter balanced 5, steel shell, white metal lined
No. 3 main bearing 0.002 - 0.006 in
(0.05 - 0.15 mm)
0.012 in (0.3 mm) 2.1631 - 2.1636 in 0.0012 in (0.03 mm)
ist
0.010 in (0.250 mm)
2nd 3rd
0.030 in (0.750 mm)
(54.942 - 54.955 mm)
0.020 in (0.500 mm) 0.040 in (1.000 mm)
4th Main bearing lesrance
0.0008 - 0.0024 in
Main bearing clearance (Max. )
Connecting rods and bearings Type ...
Length ecnire ‘to sentre) .
an
(0.020 - 0.062 mm)
0.0039 in (0.10 mm) 1.9670 - 1.9675 in
..
Crankpin ovality and taper (Max. pe
L16S sy L18S and L18T
(0.08 - 0.38 mm)
Sprocket and chain Dowel and bolt Key 1.45: 1
Crankshaft sprocket attachment
Crankpin diameter
(0.038 - 0.067 mm)
0.002 in (0.05 mm)
Camshaft distortion (maxinum) Camshaft drive type
0.0015 - 0.0026 in . 0.0039 in (0.10 mm) 0.0031 - 0.0150 in
(49.961 - 49.975 mm)
0.0012 in (0.03 mm)
‘H’ section, forged steel, steel shell white metal lined bearing
5.24 in (133.0 mm) 5.132 in (130.35 mm)
20 Chapter 1/Engine ee Pr Bearing material
=
ane
oe
Se
a
Sie
F770
=
0.0588 - 0.0593 in
(1.493 - 1.506 mm)
ad a Big end play ... Connecting rod bearing Ghearance ae Undersizes (approx- use metric)
0.0079 - 0.0118 in 0.0010 - 0.0022 in
(0.20 - 0.30 mm) (0.025 - 0.055 mm)
Bearing thickness (standard)
1st
tes
Eee
ee
2nd 3rd 4th 5th
wee ae at ans
x a See i
ose S: oe ae
6th
ze
Le
Pistons and rings ees Type ... Diameter: -
Ra
L16
pie
a
oo standard wa
Ce
2
ait
aes
25
£:
0.002 in (0.060 mm)
oF oes a
een = a ane
= ae is ea
ate ods ze wi
ate es ive a
0.004 0.010 0.020 0.030
in in in in
(0.120 (0.250 (0.500 (0.750
mm) . mm) mm) mm)
0.040 in (1.000 mm) is
a
Rae
ae
ua
al
ahs
on ee
see tee
bas eee
= ae
oe oes
aa aus
alecé anit
ae
a
om bi coe a
ey
ae
au
sa
Flat or concave strut, slipper skirt, cast aluminium
3.2671 - 3.2691
in
(82.985 - 83.035 mm)
me et
3.2762 - 3.2781 —
in
(83.215 - 83.265 mm)
PP as
eee ae
3.2860 - 3.2880 in 3.3648 - 3.3667 in
(83.465 - 83.515 mm) (85.465 - 85.515 mm)
3.2959 - 3.2978 in
(83.715 - 83.765 mm)
ee
nee
are
is ee
At sng
a3 cies,
es on
3.3057 - 3.3077 in 3.3844 - 3.3864 in
(83.965 - 84.015 mm) (86.965 - 86.015 mm)
oe aoe
bee we
Es aad
zed zee
3.3254 - 3.3274 in —
(84.465 - 84.515 mm)
0.013 - 0.014 in
(0.32 - 0.35 mm)
SaaS
O08 In
(84.985 -85.035 mm)
0.0098 in (0.25 mm) oversize L16 L18
a re
xe
a
0.0197 in (0. 50 culeoversize L16 L18
=
am
0.0295 in (0. 75 mm) c oversize L16 Fae & ne L18
sea
oa
-
0.0394 in (1.00 mun & oversize L16 L18
oes ees
ea
ees
0.0492 in (1.25 ramicoversize L16 L18
ee a
= se
Ellipse difference Ring groove width: Top a Second ...
Oil control
Bs
ae me
ae is
= ae
ee ah
= St
re sae
nis eae
0.0787 in (2.0 mm) 0.0787 in (2.0 mm)
=
es
ae
ae
ve
=
fas
0.1575 in (4.0 mm) 0.0010 - 0.0018 in 0.0374 - 0.0413 in 0.8266 - 0.8268 in 2.8445 - 2.8740 in 0.00004 - 0.00051 in 0.0006 - 0.0013 in
Piston to bore clearance
Gudgeon pin hole offset Gudgeon pin diameter Gudgeon pin length Gudgeon pin to piston clearance a Interference fit of piston pin to connecting rod bush
(0.025 - 0.045 mm) (0.95 - 1.05 mm)
(20.995 - 21.000 mm)
(72.25 - 73.00 mm) (0.001 - 0.013 mm)
(0.015 - 0.033 mm)
Piston ring height:
Top
ach
Second
...
ty
a
aes
te
x
os
0.0778 in (1.977 mm)
a2
ees
cee
os
fee
hee
0.0778 in (1.977 mm)
\,
0.0016 - 0.0031 0.0018 - 0.0031
in in
(0.040 - 0.080 mm) (0.045 - 0.080 mm)
0.0012 - 0.0028 in
(0.030 - 0.070 mm)
Piston ring side clearance: Top
-
L16 L118
Second Piston ring gap: Top L116
Second
0.0098 - 0.0157 in
(0.25 - 0.40 mm)
L18 L16
0.0138 - 0.0217 in 0.0059 - 0.0118 in
(0.35 - 0.55 mm) (0.15 - 0.30 mm)
-
0.0118 - 0.0197 in
(0.30 - 0.50 mm)
0.0118 - 0.0354 in 0.0118 - 0.0354 in
(0.30 - 0.90 mm) (0.30 - 0.90 mm)
L118
Oil control: L16 L18 Cylinder block Type ...
4 cylinder in line cylinder block, integral with crankcase
Bore Ghareter standard: L16 L18 Bore wear limit Bore measurement points from face of bloat. 1st
2nd 3rd cs Cylinder block face'v warp fend
3.2677 in (83 mm) 3.3465 in (85 mm)
0.008 in (0.20 mm) 0.787 in (20 mm) 2.362 in (60 mm) 3.937 in (100 mm) 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Chapter 1/Engine a a a Oversize piston sizes HAS ist O.S. 2nd\O:s. 3rd O.S. 41n'OS:
... ... sc
SthiO:s.
...
21
use metric)
oe aks pa
ee mee Ee ne
+A Pe as ae
say me oa ma
Aas
ten en a as
ae
AS aie eee ie
aif
ie rie bn ta
abe
0.010 0.020 0.030 0.040
=
an
a
0.060 in (1.500 mm)
Trochoid, inner and outer rotors
in in in in
(0.250 (0.500 (0.750 (1.000
mm) mm) mm) mm)
Oil pump Type
...
Ne
Rotor to cover clearance Rotor side clearance
me
eee
ive
eae
ae
es
am
eae x
see i
Rotor tip clearance
as
eos =
cs a
ae a
es
nti
...
Outer rotor to body dlearance Rotor to bottom cover clearance Oil pressure at idle Regulator valve spring:
: ..
Free length = = Pressure length Regulator valve opening pressure
ae £ ...
e
Torque wrench settings: Cylinder head bolts ... js Connecting rod big end nuts Flywheel fixing bolts Main bearing cap bolts Camshaft sprocket bolt Oil sump bolts Oil pump bolts se es =F Oil sump drain plug ... ate aA Rocker pivot lock nuts Camshaft locating plate bolts Carburettor nuts Manifold nuts £ a Fuel pump nuts eee i: Crankshaft pulley bolts Rear engine mounting to transmission bolts Rear engine mounting to crossmember bolts __ Rear crossmember to body bolts ... a Front engine mounting bracket to engine bolts Front engine mounting to bracket bolts ... Front engine mounting to crossmember ... Oil pump cover bolts + aes Cap nut - regulator valve
sat
0.0012 - 0.0024 in 0.0020 - 0.0047 in
Less than 0.0047 in (0.12 mm)
-‘
as «. [
--0,0059 - 0.0083 in (0.15 -0.21 mm) 0.0012 -0.0051 in (0.03-0.13 mm) 11-40 Ib/in2 (0.8 - 2.8 kg/cm2)
es
,
2.067 in (52.5 mm) 1.370 in (34.8 mm) 50 - 57 Ib/in2 (3.5 - 5.0 mm) Ib f ft 43.4
ne a5
23 - 27 101-116 33 - 40 86.8 - 116 4.3-6.5
8.0 - 10.8
a
kg fm 6.0
3.2 - 3.8 14-16 45-55 12-16 0.6 - 0.9
1.1- 1.5
a
14.5-21.7 36.2 - 43.4 4.3-6.5
2.0 - 3.0 5.0 - 6.0 0.6-0.9
268 ae
26 - 52 5.8 - 8.7 8.7 - 13.0 86.8 - 115.7 23.0 12.0
3.6 - 7.2 0.8 - 1.2 1.2-18 12.0 - 16.0 One 1.6
38.0 22.0 23.0 12.0 5.1-7.2 26 - 29
5.2 3.0 3.2 1.7 0.7 - 1.0 4-5
:
... -...
(0.03 - 0.06 mm) (0.05 - 0.12 mm)
a
ay sas
e
Automatic only
.
FIG. 1.1. CYLINDER Block cylinder liner Block cylinder liner
Front engine cover Oil filter cartridge Connector Lockwasher spring Bolt Inlet water gasket WOANAGAWH™ Hose clarnp 10 Rubber cap 11 Rubber cap | 72 Water inlet 13 Lock washer spring 14 Indicator bolt 15 Timing indicator
BLOCK, SUMP AND FRONT COVER ASSEMBLIES
16 Lockwasher spring 17 Lockwasher spring
18 19 20 27 22 23
31 Tube clamp
32 33 Bolt 34 Lockwasher spring 35 Bolt 36 Bolt Left hand front cover gasket 37 Right hand front cover gasket 38 Water pump dowel 39
24 25 Water pump dowel 26 Crankcase oil seal 27 Washer
28 Bolt 29 Clamp spacer 30 Tube clamp
‘
40 41 42 43 44 45
Hose clamp Oil cooler hose clamp Lock spring washer Bolt Oil pan gasket Drain plug Drain plug washer Oil pan assembly Chain oil jet Crankcase baffle plate Crankcase net Relief valve Rear engine plate Oil level gauge
46 47 48 49 50 57
Oil level gauge guide Oil pressure switch Drain plug Bearing oil seal Crankcase oil seal Taper plug
52 Welch plug 53 Timing chain cover dowel 54 Block to transmission case dowel 55 Block dowel 56 Block dowel 57 Dowel
58 Main bearing bolt 59 Cylinder block assembly
23
FIG. 1.2. CYLINDER Cam bracket bolt
13 Thermostat gasket
Cam bracket bolt Water temperature earth nut
14 Thermostat housing 15 Thermostat assembly
Water temperature gauge
16 17 18 19 20 271 22 23 24
Spring washer Nut Stud Joint washer BOBNAAHAWH™ Water outlet
10 Spring washer
Rocker cover bolt Oil cap packing Oil filler cap Rocker cover gasket Rocker cover Nut Spring washer Engine rear slinger Engine front slinger
HEAD COMPONENTS 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
Lockwasher spring Bolt Front cover head gasket Bolt Front head cover Washer Cylinder head bolt Cylinder head bolt Cylinder head bolt Cylinder head gasket Stud Stud
37 38 39 40
Stud Stud Cylinder head oil jet Taper plug
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48
Cylinder blind plug Cylinder blind plug Oil gallery taper plug Exhaust valve guide Intake valve guide Exhaust valve insert Intake valve insert Cylinder head
24 Chapter 1/Engine Se EE ES ea
1
eee
engine out of the car and on a bench or floor. 1 Removal and replacement of the main bearings. 2 Removal and replacement of the crankshaft.
General description
The engine fitted is of the four cylinder in-line type, with valve operation by means of an overhead camshaft. The cast iron cylinder block contains the four bores and acts as a rigid support for the five bearing crankshaft. The machined cylinder bores are surrounded by water jackets to dissipate heat and control operating temperature. A disposable oil filter is located on the right hand side of the cylinder block and supplies clean oil to the main gallery
and various oilways. The main bearings are lubricated from oil holes which run parallel with the cylinder bores. The forged steel crankshaft is suitably drilled for directing lubricating oil so ensuring full bearing lubrication. To lubricate the connecting rod small end, drillings are located in the big ends of the rods so that the oil is squirted upwards. Crankshaft end float is controlled by thrust washers located at the centre main bearings. The pistons are of a special aluminium casting with struts to control thermal expansion. There are two compression and one oil control ring. The gudgeon pin is a hollow steel shaft which is fully floating in the piston and a press fit in the connecting rod
little end. The pistons are attached to the crankshaft via forged steel connecting rods. The cylinder head is of aluminium and incorporates wedge type combustion chambers. A special aluminium bronze valve seat is used for the inlet valve whilst a steel exhaust valve seat is fitted. Located on the top of the cylinder head is the cast iron camshaft which is supported in four aluminium alloy brackets. The camshaft bearings are lubricated from drillings which lead from the main oil gallery in the cylinder head. The supply of oil to each cam lobe is through an oil hole drilled in the base circle of each lobe. The actual oil supply is to the front oil gallery from the 2nd camshaft bearing and to the rear oil gallery from the 3rd camshaft bearing. These holes on the base circle of the lobe supply oil to the cam pad surface of the rocker arm and to the valve tip end. Two valves per cylinder are mounted at a slight angle in the cylinder head and are actuated by a pivot type rocker arm in direct contact with the cam mechanism. Double springs are fitted to each valve. The camshaft is driven by a double row roller chain from the front of the crankshaft. Chain tension is controlled by a tensioner which is operated by oil and spring pressure. The rubber shoe type tensioner controls vibration and tension of the chain. The inlet manifold is of a separate aluminium alloy casting with four arches. The carburettor is attached to a flange in the centre of the manifold. The cast iron exhaust manifold has three branches which converge into two for connecting to the exhaust downpipes via a flange and studs. Both are fixed to the right
hand side of the cylinder head. Any references in the text to the left hand side or right hand
4
Methods of engine removal
There are two methods of engine removal: complete with clutch and gearbox or without the gearbox. Both methods are described. : It is easier if a hydraulic trolley jack is used in conjunction with two axle stands, so that the car can be raised sufficiently to allow easy access underneath. Overhead lifting tackle will be necessary in both cases. NOTE: cars fitted with automatic transmission necessitating engine and transmission removal, should have the transmission removed FIRST as described in Chapter 6. The transmission even on its own, is very heavy.
5
Engine - removal with gearbox
1
The complete unit can be removed easily in about four hours.
It is essential to have a good hoist, and two strong axle stands if . an inspection pit is not available. Removal will be much easier if there is someone to assist, especially during the later stages. 2 With few exceptions, it is simplest to lift out the engine with all ancillaries (alternator, distributor, carburettor, exhaust manifold) still attached. 3 Before beginning work it is worthwhile to get all dirt cleaned off the engine at a garage equipped with steam or high pressure air and water cleaning equipment. This makes the job quicker, easier and of course much cleaner. 4 Using a pencil or scriber mark the outline of the bonnet hinge on either side to act as a datum for refitting. An assistant should now take the weight of the bonnet. 5 Undo and remove the two bolts and washers that secure the bonnet to the hinge and carefully lift the bonnet up and then over the front of the car. Store in a safe place where it will not be scratched. Push down the hinges to stop accidents. 6 Undo the positive and then the negative battery terminal clamp bolts and detach from the terminal posts (photo). 7 Release the battery clamp securing nuts and lift away the
clamp (photo). 8 Lift the battery from the engine compartment
(photo).
9 Place a container of at least 13 Imp pints under the bottom radiator hose ready to catch the engine coolant. 10 Place a container of at least 8 Imp pints under the engine sump drain plug. Unscrew the drain plug and allow all the oil to
drain out. Refit the drain plug.
11 Place a container of at least 4 Imp pints under the gearbox drain plug. Unscrew the drain plug and allow all the oil to drain
out. Refit the drain plug (photo). 12 Undo and remove the screws securing the front grille panel to
the body (photo). | 13 Carefully lift away the front grille panel (photo).
14 Slacken the bottom hose clip at the union end and detach the
side of the engine are applicable when sitting in the drivers seat.
bottom hose (photo).
2
15 Slacken the top hose clip at the thermostat end and detach the top hose (photo).
Operations with engine in place
16 Detach
The following major operations can be carried out to the engine with it in place in the car: 1 Removal and replacement of the camshaft. 2 Removal and replacement of the cylinder head. 3 Removal and replacement of the engine mountings. 4 Removal of sump and pistons (after disconnecting steering linkage) - not recommended. 5 Removal of flywheel - not recommended.
3
ie asse
ee
Sees een
the clips on
the side of the
bolts
and
washers
panel.
securing
the radiator
assembly
to the front
18 Move the radiator assembly rearward slightly (photo).
19 Lift the radiator upward and away from the front of the car. Take care that the fan blades do not touch the matrix (photo). 20 Detach the LT cable from the side of the distributor (photo).
Also detach the vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum unit. 21 Release the distributor cap clips and lift away the cap
Operations with engine removed
a
the electric cable from
radiator (photo). 17 Working from the front of the car undo and remove the four
Pee
Eee
The following major operations must be carried out with the
(photo).
22 Move the HT cables from the clips on the top of the rocker
cover (photo).
Chapter 1/Engine
25
25,24
FIG. 1.3. PISTON, CONNECTING 1 2 3 4 5 6
Drive plate bolt Crankshaft plate Drive plate
7 8 9 70 717 12
Converter pilot Flywheel bolt
Flywheel to clutch dowel
ROD AND CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLIES
Flywheel ring gear Flywheel assembly Crank bushing set Crank pulley shaft Crank pulley bolt
Pulley washer
13 14 75 16 17 78
Oil thrower Oil pump gear Crank gear Woodruff key Bushing Oil gallery plug
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Crankshaft Connecting Connecting Connecting Connecting Piston ring Piston ring
rod bushing rod nut rod bolt rod set set
26 Piston with pin
23 Release the HT cable from the ignition coil (photo). 24 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing
the air cleaner stay to the inlet manifold (photo). 25 Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner hose to the warm air adaptor on the exhaust manifold. Detach the hose (photo). 26 Release the air cleaner from the top of the carburettor, lift upward
and
detach
the
two
hoses
(photo).
located
in the
underside
27 Slacken the hose clip on the side of the fuel pump and detach from the fuel pump. Plug the ends to stop loss of petrol or dirt ingress (photo). 28 Detach the accelerator control from the bell crank and
bracket (photo). 29 Release the choke control from the bracket and control lever
on the side of the carburettor (photo). 30 Slacken
the clip amd
detach
the hose from
the rear of the
inlet manifold (photo). 31 Slacken inlet
the two
manifold
(photo).
and
clips and detach metal
pipe
the bridge hose from the
between
the
two
manifolds
32 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the
Starter motor solenoid and detach the cables (photo). 33 Detach the hose from the adaptor at the rear of number 4
spark plug (photo).
34 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the alternator and detach the cables (photo). 35 Detach the cable from the water temperature sender unit and oil pressure switch. 36 Now working inside the car, untie the leather gaiter securing
cord (photo). 37 Undo and remove washers (photo).
the
two
console
securing
screws
and
38 Lift the console from over the change lever (photo). 39 Undo and remove the rubber gaiter retaining ring securing screw (photo). 40 Lift the rubber gaiter up the gear change lever (photo). 41 Undo and remove the nut located at the bottom of the gear
change lever (photo). 42 Lift the gear change lever up from the selector link (photo).
26
CABz
FIG. 1.4. CAMSHAFT AND OVERHEAD Rocker bushing Rocker valve spring Rocker retainer Pivot locknut Valve rocker pivot Valve rocker with pad Valve rocker Valve oil seal Inner valve spring seat BSBNAGAAWYO™
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Valve seat Rocker valve guide Valve collet Valve retainer
Valve spring Valve spring Exhaust valve Inlet valve
18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
VALVE ASSEMBLIES
Bolt Spring washer Chain tension slack guide Chain tension side guide
Washer Bolt Chain tensioner Camshaft chain
26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Fuel pump cam assembly Cam gear bolt Cam sprocket Bolt Spring washer Cam locating plate Camshaft dowel Camshaft
Chapter 1/Engine
a 43 Recover
the
(photo). 44 This photo
upper
shows
washers (photo).
and
lower
rubber
bushes
and
washers
care not to damage the front body panel (photo). Then lower the engine to the floor. 10 To complete, clear out any loose nuts and bolts and tools from the engine compartment and the floor area.
the correct positions of the bushes and
45 Working under the car slacken silencer securing clip (photo).
the exhaust
downpipe
to
a
46 Detach the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold and
move to one side. 47 Withdraw the split pin and remove
7
shaft
rearward
so disengaging
from
gearbox (photo).
the
rear of the
slave cylinder to one side (photo).
51 Unscrew the speedometer cable knurled nut and detach a speedometer cable from the side of the gearbox (photo). 52 Detach the two cables from the reverse light switch (photo). 53 Position a jack under the gearbox casing and take the weight of the unit from the rear mountings. Undo and remove the gearbox rear mounting securing bolt (photo). 54 Undo and remove the rear mounting crossmember securing bolts and washers (photo). 55 Move the crossmember to one side and lift away from under
dismantling
3
the engine and
that all pipes, wires, and controls are well out of the
way and then slowly raising the engine and lowering the jack under the transmission ease the complete unit up and over the
engine compartment (photo). 60 When the sump is clear ot the front body panel the rear of the gearbox can now be lifted by hand as the car is pushed
rearward or the hoist is drawn away from the engine compartment. Lower the unit to the ground away from the car. 61 Check that the engine compartment and floor area around the car are clear of loose nuts and bolts as well as tools.
6 1
Engine - removal less gearbox If it is necessary
gearbox
in, position,
to remove
the engine
only
can
the engine,
be detached
them
in
Always fit new gaskets and seals - but do NOT throw the old
Ones away until you have the new one to hand. A pattern is then available if they have to be made specially. Hang them up. 4 In general it is best to work from the top of the engine downward. In all cases support the engine firmly, so that it does not topple over when undoing stubborn nuts and bolts. 5 Always place nuts and bolts back with their components or place of attachment, if possible - it saves much confusion later. Otherwise put them in small, separate pots or jars so that their groups are easily identified. 6 If you have an area where parts can be laid out on sheets of paper, do so - putting the nuts and bolts with them. If you are able to look at all the components in this way it helps to avoid missing something on reassembly. 7 Even though you may be dismantling the engine only partly possibly with it still in the car - the principles still apply. It is appreciated that most people prefer to do engine repairs, if possible, with the engine in position. Consequently an indication will be given as to what is necessary to lead up to carrying out repairs On a particular component. Generally speaking the engine is easy enough to get at as far as repairs and renewals of the ancillaries are concerned. When it comes to repair of the major engine components, however, it is only fair to say that repairs with the engine in position are more difficult than with it out.
support the weight using chains or rope through the lifting eyes located on the right front, and left rear, of the cylinder head.
59 Check
clean
cleaning off. Paraffin, which could possibly remain in oilways would dilute the oil for initial lubrication after reassembly, must be blown out.
the way before moving from under the car. 57 Undo and remove the engine mounting to front axle securing
over
begin. As parts are removed
(do not immerse parts with oilways in paraffin -
clean them with a petrol soaked cloth and clear oilways with nylon pipe cleaners). If an air line is available use it for final
the car (photo).
hoist or crane
may
petrol/paraffin
56 Check that all cables, and the exhaust system is well out of
overhead
a
do with a work bench which should be large enough to spread around the inevitable bits and pieces and tools, and strong enough to support the engine weight. If the floor is the only place, try and ensure that the engine rests on a hard wood platform or similar rather than on concrete. 2 Spend some time on cleaning the unit. If you have been wise this will have been done before the engine was removed, at a service bay. Good solvents such as ‘gunk’ will help to ‘float’ off caked dirt/grease under a water jet. Once the exterior is clean,
50 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing the clutch slave cylinder to the clutch bell housing. Move the
bolts (photo). 58 Position an
ee
1 Keen D.I.Y. mechanics who dismantle a lot of engines will probably have a stand on which to put them, but most will make
48 Mark the propeller shaft and final drive mating flanges to ensure correct reassembly and then undo and remove the four securing nuts, bolts and washers (photo). 49 Carefully lower the rear end of the propeller shaft and then the
i
Dismantling the engine - general
SS
the cotter pin retaining
the handbrake cable to the relay lever (photo).
draw
27
a
leaving the
from
the
gearbox and then lifted away. 2 Follow the instructions given in Section 5 paragraphs 2 - 10,
8
Engine ancillaries - removal
12 - 35, 3 Detach the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold. 4 Undo and remove the two bolts that secure the starter motor to the flywheel housing. Note that the battery earth cable is
attached to the flywheel
housing bottom
bolt. Pull the starter
motor forward and lift away. 5 Position an overhead hoist over the engine and support the weight using chains or rope though the lifting eyes located on the right front, and left rear, of the cylinder head. 6 Undo and remove the bolts and washers that secure the front“ engine mountings to the crossmember. 7 Undo and remove the remaining nuts and bolts that secure the engine to the gearbox bellhousing. 8 Check that no controls, cables or pipes have been left connected to the engine and that they are safely tucked to one side where they will not be caught, as the unit is being removed. 9 Raise the engine slightly to enable the engine mountings to clear their location on the front axle. Move it forward until the
clutch is clear of the input shaft. Continue lifting the unit taking
“a
1 If you are stripping the engine completely or preparing to install a reconditioned unit, all the ancillaries must be removed first. If you are going to obtain a reconditioned ‘short’ motor (block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods) then obviously the cam box, cylinder head and associated parts will need retention for fitting to the new engine. It is advisable to check just what you will get with a reconditioned unit as changes are made from time to time. 2 The removal of all items connected with fuel, ignition and charging systems are detailed in the respective Chapters but
for clarity they are merely listed here. Distributor Carburettor (can be removed together with inlet manifold) Alternator Fuel pump Water pump Starter motor
Thermostat
5.14a Slackening bottom hose clip
5.14b- Detaching bottom hose
5.15 Detaching top hose
eM
&
4
eR
5.18 Radiator moved away
Ae
5.22 Detaching HT cable from rocker cover ?
5 23 Detachi g HT cable from ignition coil
5.24 Removal of air cleaner support bracket
bolts
5.25 Detaching air cleaner hose from manifold adaptor
5.29 Detaching choke control
5.32 Starter motor cables attached to solenoid
Se
5.42 Lifting gear change lever up
5.43 Lifting away upper mounting bush
5.51 Speedometer cable removal from gearbox
Chapter 1/Engine
5.53 Gearbox mounting detachment
33
5.54 Rear mounting crossmember securing bolt removal
5.57 Engine mounting securing bolt removal 6
Refitting
of the front mountings
is the reverse sequence to
removal. The securing nuts and bolts should only be tightened to the specified torque wrench settings when the weight of the engine is on the mountings. Rear mountings 1 Position a piece of wood on the saddle of a jack and locate under the transmission assembly. 2 Carefully raise the jack until the weight of the transmission
5.58 Engine being raised in compartment 9
Engine mountings - removal and replacement
If the rubber insulator has softened because of oil contamination or failure of attachment, it will be necessary to fit a new mounting, Always cure the cause of the oil leak before fitting a new mounting.
Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake jack up the front of the car and support on firmly based axle stands. Front mountings 1 Undo and remove the bolts that secure the engine mountings to the crossmember. 2 Position a piece of wood on the saddle of a jack and locate under the engine sump. 3 Carefully jack up the engine until the mounting is well clear of the crossmember. 4 Undo and remove the nuts and spring washers that secure each engine mounting to the engine mounting bracket. 5 Lift away the engine mountings.
assembly is supported by the jack. 3 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the mounting to the rear crossmember. 4 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers that secure the rear transmission crossmember to the underside of the body. Lift away the crossmember noting which way round it is fitted. 5 Undo and remove the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the transmission extension housing. Lift away the mounting. 6 Refitting
is the reverse
sequence
to removal. The following
additional points should be noted: a) Make sure that the mounting is correctly positioned before securing. b) The securing nuts and bolts should only be tightened to the specified torque wrench settings when the weight of the transmission is on the mountings.
10 Oil filter - removal and replacement 1 The oil filter is a throwaway cartridge type which is changed regularly under service procedures. 2 To remove the filter grasp and turn in an anti-clockwise direction. 3 Smear the filter element sealing ring with engine oil before
fitting to prevent binding and removal difficulty later. 4 Screw on the filter and tighten hand tight only otherwise an oil leakage may occur. (photo)
£
Chapter 1/Engine
11 Flywheel - removal, inspection and renovation 1 The flywheel is held to the rear of the crankshaft by five bolts. It can be removed with the engine in the car, but it is not recommended. ; 2 Undo and remove the bolts with a socket spanner and pull the flywheel off squarely. It is important not to damage the mating surfaces (photo). 3 The flywheel clutch friction surface should be shiny and unscored. Minor blemishes and scratches can be overlooked but deep grooves will probably cause clutch problems in time. Renewal may be advisable.
If the starter ring gear teeth are badly worn the ring can be removed by first splitting it between two teeth with a chisel. Do not try to drive it off, because it rests in a shallow groove. If you have never fitted a new ring gear yourself it is best to have it done for you. It needs heating to a temperature of 200°C evenly in order to shrink-fit it on the flywheel. The chamfers on the ring gear teeth must face the same way in which the original ring gear was fitted otherwise the starter motor will not engage correctly. 12 Rocker arm and pivots - removal and replacement
rons SS
1 Slacken the clips and disconnect the hose to the air cleaner ventilation valve and thermostatic air bleed hose from the rocker cover, 2 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the air cleaner support bracket to the inlet manifold. Make a note of the electrical connections to the air cleaner temperature sensor unit and detach these. 3 Undo the wing nut at the top of the air cleaner and lift away the complete assembly. 4 Disconnect the HT leads at the spark plugs and tie back out of the way. It is important that when handling carbon filled HT leads they are treated with care otherwise the carbon insert will break down.
5
Undo
and remove
co
yee
Se
Fig. 1.6. Removal of rocker arm
the six bolts and washers securing the
rocker cover and gasket to the top of the cylinder head. Lift away the rocker cover and gasket. This gasket should be renewed on reassembly (photo). 6 Carefully unclip and then remove the small steady spring from each rocker arm. Note which way round the springs are
fitted. 7 Unscrew the rocker pivot locknuts and then screw down the pivots as far as possible into the cylinder head. 8 Using a screwdriver push down on the top spring assembly and manipulate out each rocker is being done the valve rocker guides located on valve stems must not be dislodged or lost. Also cam heel for the rocker arm being removed is
of each valve arm. When this the end of the check that the adjacent to its
Exhaust
relevant arm before any attempt is made to compress the valve spring assembly. 9 As each rocker arm is removed place in order, so that they may be fitted in their original positions.
Inlet
Fig. 1.7. Valve and rocker assembly components
Oblong groove
10 The rocker arm pivots may be unscrewed from the cylinder head. Lift away the rocker guides from each of the valve stem
Location notch
ends. Keep these in order as well.
11 Prior to inspecting the parts, wash in paraffin and wipe dry with a non fluffy rag. 12 Inspect the rocker arm pivot head surface for wear or damage. Also inspect the rocker arm to pivot contact surfaces for wear or damage. Any parts that show wear must be renewed. 13 Reassembly is the reverse sequence to removal. If possible always use a new rocker cover gasket. It will be necessary to adjust the valve clearance as described in Section 41.
13 Cylinder head and camshaft - removal (engine in car) SS ee ee e 1 Slacken the clips and disconnect the hose to the air cleaner ventilation valve and thermostatic air bleed hose from the rocker cover. Make a note of the electrical connections to the air
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Chapter 3 Carburation and exhaust emission Contents
General description ava U.S. Federal Regulations- servicing = Air cleaner and element - removal and replacement x Fuel pump- description eee Fuel pump - removal and replacement _ =
SU carburettor float chamber - dismantling, examination and reassembly... = no wes
SU carburettor float chamber fuel level adjustment SU carburettor -examination and repair
yy. a12Ua9 ja2aYyM Hulsaa1S
WINWIXe\y
DOWNSHIFT
IDLING
VALVE
DOWNSHIFT
CABLE
POSITION
KICK-DOWN
VALVE CAM
POSITION
Fig. 6.49. Downshift cam positiens
KEY TO FAULT DIAGNOSIS CHART Example of use: Fault — Bumpy engagement of D — first fault given in chart. Items 1 to 7, given as D Bd fc O Q in the chart key, are checked in this letter order. NUMBERS
INDICATE THE RECOMMENDED
SEQUENCE
OF FAULT
Preliminary Adjustment Faults A.
Fluid level insufficient.
Downshift valve cable incorrectly assembled or adjusted. Manual linkage adjusted.
INVESTIGATION
incorrectly
assembled
or
Incorrect engine idling speed.
Adjustment Faults
Hydraulic Control Faults
Incorrect front band adjustment.
Mechanical Faults
Incorrect rear band adjustment.
——
R/S
None forward
..
None reverse
Seizure reverse .. No neutral
Upshifts No. 1-2
=
No. 2-3 te 0 Above normal shift speed
Below normal shift speed
Awowo
Upshift quality Slip 1-2 Slip 2-3 Rough 1-2 Rough 2-3 Seizure 1-2 Seizure 2-3
oo ee
PARSIHIS
Stall speed Below 1,000
Over 2,000
Mechanical Faults N. Front clutch slipping due to worn plates or
faulty parts.
°
Downshifts
No. 2-1 ag ae No. 3-2 ms oF Involuntary high Yk 3-2 Above normal shift speed Below normal shift speed
Mil
Hydraulic Control Faults Oil tubes missing or not installed correctly. Sealing rings missing or broken. Valve body assembly screws missing or not correctly tightened. Primary regulator valve sticking. Secondary regulator valve sticking. Throttle valve sticking. Modulator valve sticking. 3zm 9 -™ Governor valve sticking, leaking or incorrectly assembled. Orifice control valve sticking. - 1-2 shift valve sticking. 2-3 shift valve sticking. 2-3 shift valve plunger sticking. ee as Converter “out” check valve missing or sticking. Ss. Pump check valve missing or Sticking.
we we
Front clutch seized or plates distorted.
Rear clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty check valve in piston. Rear clutch seized or plates distorted. Po Front band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band. n Rear band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band. Uni-directional clutch slipping or incorrectly installed. a)
- Uni-directional clutch seized, Input shaft broken.
EPS ey! . Front pump drive tanges on converter hub
N:
amersdi) heey PRS) &
ee>- far
ay vic '
Fig. 13.3 Checking position of A.T.C. air cleaner valve using a mirror
y
White line DS =, ——7 a a SS fF —=—_
2
Fig. 13.4 Correct hose connections to A.T.C. type air cleaner White line E.G.R. to carburettor.
Green line anti-back fire to manifold.
Yellow line distributor to carburettor
Fig. 13.5 A.T.C. air cleaner sensor securing components
1
Pipe
2
3
Catch :
6
Clip
Adhesive
4
Hose
7
Gasket
5
Tabs _ Fig. 13.6 Removing A.T.C. air cleaner sensor
Chapter 13/Supplement for 2000cc (119 cu in) model 3
261
To check for valve air leakage, alternatively blow and suck air
at the valve orifice tube. The valve must be renewed if there is excessive leakage. Where dual valves are used (with air conditioner) hold each valve shut in turn while testing the one not held closed.
Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - general description 1 The carburettor is of downdraught type and incorporates an economizer, an idle limiter, an electrically operated automatic choke, an anti-dieseling solenoid to eliminate run-on and a power
valve (vacuum actuated booster) to ensure high speed operation. 2 A boost controlled deceleration device is used with manual transmission models to reduce exhaust emission during coasting. 3 The carburettor incorporates a primary circuit for partthrottle operation and a secondary circuit for high-speed, full
power
operation.
Both
these
circuits
have Zenith/Stromberg
type nozzles.
Fig. 13.7 Installing A.T.C. air cleaner sensor securing clip
4
The carburettor
is equipped
with a piston type accelerator
pump which is linked to the throttle valve. 5 The vacuum piston type power valve mechanism
ee. =
Observe valve
|| ZB. es
movement
jy
Water temperatures
60° to 75°C (140° to 167°F)
__—o
—:_: INVERTOR
P.A.]
-
—:_ ANDCIRCUIT
: POWER AMP
Auto-choke relay Ignition switch
iBattery
: POWER SWITCH
Fig. 13.15 Automatic choke circuit (Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor)
Carb. stopper
Fig. 13.16 Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor throttle adjusting screw (1) and idle adjusting screw (2)
“CQ” rich
Fig. 13.17 Idle limiter cap (Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor)
1.7 mm
(0.0669 in)
tor) Fig. 13.18 Fast idle adjustment (Hitachi DCH-340 carburet
1
Fast idle cam
2
Nut
3
Fast idle screw
4
Choke valve plate
5
Connecting rod
6
Throttle valve
Fig. 13.19 Choke vacuum break adjustment (Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor)
1 Link rod 2
3
Spring
Piston
4
Diaphragm
5
Piston lever
6
Choke valve plate
Chapter 13/Supplement fir 2000cc (119 cu in) model 266 a) i a ee ee ie Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - fast idle adjustment
6 Installation gasket.
1 When starting the engine from cold, the choke valve plate will be closed and through a system of interconnecting links, the throttle valve plate will be open to provide the correct fast idle
Hitachi DCH-340 assembly
speed.
1
2 Adjustment is carried out by turning the fast idle screw after releasing the Jocknut. With the carburettor in position on the manifold, the best method of adjustment is by trial-and-error method on successive cold starts. Where the carburettor is removed from the manifold then a twist drill will provide a suitable gauge to check the throttle valve plate opening (choke
1
carburettor
- choke
vacuum
Using a rod or twist drill as a gauge, 0.067 in. (1.7 mm) in diameter, place it between the edge of the choke valve plate
(in the closed position) and the carburettor body. 3 With the choke valve plate held in this position, the link rod should be located at the lower end of the slot in the choke piston lever. If necessary, bend the link rod to establish this condition.
ment 1 Remove the air cleaner cover.
2
Using a rod or twist drill as a guage, 0.173 in. (4.4 mm) in
diameter, place it between the edge of the choke valve plate (in the closed position) and the carburettor body. 3 Holding the choke valve plate in this position, the throttle lever should be able to be opened fully. If not, bend the un-
loader tongue.
Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - choke housing setting 1 Under normal conditions, the index mark on the thermostat cover should align with the centre line on the housing. 2 Where there is any tendency to over choke, turn the cover clockwise not more than one graduation in a clockwise direction.
Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - throttle valves interlock adjustment 1
The
interlock
mechanism
operates
correctly
when
the
primary throttle valve plate is opened through 50° and the secondary throttle valve plate is about to open. 2 Where. adjustment is required make a gauge 0.291 in. (7.4
mm)
in width and insert it between the edge of the primary
throttle valve and the carburettor body. Bend the connecting link if necessary so that the secondary throttle valve plate is just about to open.
Dashpot (automatic transmission) - adjustment 1 To set the position of the dashpot, first check that the carburettor idling speed and mixture settings are correct and that the engine is at normal operating temperature.
2
With the engine running, open the throttle until the engine
speed is between 1600 and 1800 rpm. 3 Loosen the dashpot threaded stem locknut and rotate the dashpot until the dashpot button just touches the throttle stop
lever and then retighten the locknut. 4 Check that when the throttle is released suddenly, the engine speed decreases from approximately three seconds.
2000 to 1000 rpm in about
Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - removal and installation 1 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines from the carburettor. 3 Disconnect the automatic choke electrical leads also the lead from the anti-dieseling solenoid valve.
4 5
Disconnect the throttle linkage. Unscrew and remove the four carburettor securing nuts and
their washers and lift the carburettor rem Remove the gasket.
the inlet manifold.
-
use a new
dismantling
and re-
Using a soft brush and fuel, clean all dirt from the external
2
break
Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor - choke unloader adjust-
carburettor
but always
Detach the throttle return spring from the primary side of
the unit. 3 Remove the accelerator pump level and rod. 4 Remove the fast idle cam connecting rod. 5 Unscrew the three screws which secure the thermostat housing cover of the automatic choke. 6 Unscrew the four securing screws and remove the automatic choke housing. 7 Detach the throttle return spring from the secondary side of the carburettor. 8 Unscrew the four securing screws and remove the float chamber. 9 Remove the diaphragm chamber and gasket. 10 Remove the fast idle cam, the cam spring and the counter lever. 11 Unscrew and remove the fuel inlet union hollow bolt, the
Remove the air cleaner cover.
2
of removal
surfaces of the carburettor.
valve plate fully closed).
Hitachi DCH-340 adjustment
is a reversal
banjo union, filter, fuel inlet needle valve and stop plate. 12 Remove the accelerator pump components including the pump flexible boot, the piston, piston return spring and inlet
valve. 13 Remove the accelerator pump injector and outlet valve assemblies. 14 Remove the primary and secondary venturis, the main air bleeds and the emulsion tubes. 15 Remove the slow jet and the slow air bleed. 16 Remove the primary and secondary main jets. 17 Remove the fuel level gauge cover, the float chamber level gauge, rubber seal, the float pivot shaft and the float. 18 Remove the power valve and the throttle lever and fast idle lever components.
19 Unscrew the anti-dieseling solenoid. 20 The boost controlled deceleration device can be removed after unscrewing the three securing screws (1). On no account
unscrew the screws (2). 21 Clean all components
in clean fuel and blow through internal
Passages and jets with air from a tyre pump. with wire or their calibration will be ruined.
Never probe jets
22 Check the calibration marked on the jets with the figures shown in specifications in case any have been substituted by a previous Owner. 23 Renew any worn parts andyobtain new gaskets. 24 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but the following points must be observed. 25 Tighten the BCDD screws to the specified torque. 26 Smear the threads of the anti-dieseling solenoid with jointing compound.
27 When reassembling the float mechanism, pour some fuel into the float chamber through the fuel inlet union and then check
the level in relation to the line on the sight glass. If the level is incorrect, bend the float seat and the float stopper to obtain the correct level and the correct float arm stroke. 28 When the ‘carburettor is fully assembled, carry out the checks and adjustments described in Sections 8,9,10,11 and 12. 29 When the carburettor is installed, check the idle speed and mixture settings as described in Section 7.
Accelerator control linkage 1
This is similar to earlier models
except
for minor differences
in component design. ‘kick-down’
switch
so
that the operating
rod of the switch
is
2 On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, adjust the fully engaged in the recess at the end of the accelerator pedal arm
being
(accelerator
exerted
on
pedal
the
fully released)
rod.
tighten the switch locknut.
When
but without
the
adjustment
any pressure
is correct,
267
Fig. 13.20 Automatic choke housing setting (Hitachi DCH-340
carburettor) 1 2
Thermostat cover Housing
3
Graduated scale
Fig. 13.21 Throttle valves interlock (Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor) 1 2 3
Roller Connecting lever Return plate
4 5 6
Adjustment plate Throttle chamber Throttle valve plate
Fig. 13.23 Automatic choke components (Hitachi DCH-340 carburettor)
Fig. 13.22 Location of dashpot (automatic transmission)
4 Throttle 2return spring mops
1 Housing 2 Thermostat cover 3 Pump lever
mp ro
©€ Fig. 13.24 Diaphragm chamber (2) and fast idle cam (1) Hitachi DCH-340
Fig. 13.25 Fuel inlet components (Hitachi DCH-340) 1
Fuel inlet needle valve
2 3
Stop plate Filter
4 5
Fig. 13.26 Venturi removal (Hitachi DCH-340) Fig. 13.27 B.C.D.D. screws 1 2
Venturis Main air bleed
3
Emulsion
tube
7
Securing screws
2
Cover to body screws
Hollow bolt Banjo union
268
Fig. 13.28 Float adjustment diagram Seat Float Float stop Needle valve AWWA
2 Effective stroke of needle valve: H™
Fig. 13.29 Accelerator control detail 1
Pedal
4
Ball joint
5
Torsion shaft
2
Pedal arm
3
Ball joint
A
Ball joint threads inserted 0.43 in (11 mm)
L
6
Bellcrank
7
Bracket
1.10 in (28.0 mm). Distance between ball joints §.12 in (130.0 mm)
8
Support
9
Return spring
269 Pedal arm
Fig. 13.30 ‘Kick-down’ switch adjustment (automatic
transmission) Fig. 13.31 E.G.R. system E.G.R. control valve
Throttle valve
Ignition switch
Modulator unit
: =, E.G.R. passage line Negative pressure
Intake manifold
E.G.R. solenoid valve
Fig. 13.33 Sectional view of E.G.R. control valve
1
2 3 4
spring Diaphragm :
alle edial gal Valve closed position 6
7
Valve seat
Valve shaft Seal
8
Valve chamber
Diaphragm
Fig. 13.34 Sectional view of E.G.R. system solenoid valve
1
2
To atmosphere
To€.G.R. control valve
3
Tocarburettor
270
Chapter 13/Supplement for 2000cc (119 cu in) model
Exhaust gas recirculation general description
control
system
(EGR)
-
1 The system is based upon the principle of recirculating inset exhaust gases to the combustion chambers in order to reduce the combustion temperature and so reduce the noxious constituents of the combustion process. 2 Components of the system include a control valve, solenoid valve, engine coolant temperature sensor, modulator and the necessary interconnecting hoses.
3 The control valve admits exhaust gases to the combustion chambers byt only under certain conditions.
(i) When the coolant temperature is between 87 and 105°F (31
and 41°C), the system is operational. (ii) Irrespective of coolant temperature, when the throttle valve is in the idling or fully open positions, the system is inoperative. 4 The EGR control valve regulates the intake of recirculated exhaust gas and operats by means of inlet manifold vacuum. 5 The EGR solenoid valve is attached to the EGR control valve for the purpose of opening or closing the vacuum source to the control valve. The solenoid valve is actuated by the coolant water temperature sensor operating through the modulator.
6 The water temperature sensor is installed in the engine cooling system thermostat housing and is additional to the water temperature gauge sensor installed in the cylinder block.
EGR system - inspection and maintenance 1 At 12000 mile (20,000 km) intervals,
the
following
2 When timing the ignition, set the notch in the crankshaft pulley so that it is in alignment with the lowest point of the ‘V’
which is midway between the 10° and 15° marks on the timing index plate, making sure that No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke. : 3 Now turn the distributor body until the points are just opening and then tighten the distributor fixing plate bolt. 4 If the distributor has been removed and is to be installed, set the engine to its static ignition timing position as described in the previous two paragraphs and then before installing the distributor, turn the rotor arm so that its contact end is in alignment with the No. 1 spark plug segment in the distributor cap. In this position, the large and small segments of the distributor driveshaft will engage correctly as the unit is pushed into its recess, assuming that the oil pump drive spindle has been correctly installed as shown.
6
Automatic transmission
General description 1 The model 3N71B automatic transmission installed in 1974 models is very similar to the unit described in Chapter 8, but incorporates a vacuum diaphragm with a connection to the inlet manifold which regulates the hydraulic pressure within the unit according to engine loading.
operations should be carried out. 2 Inspect the entire EGR system, cleaning the external surfaces of the components and renewing any rubber hoses which show signs of deterioration. 3 Check the security of the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid valve. 4 Start the engine and increase its speed from idling to 3500 rpm and observe whether the control valve diaphragm and shaft move as the engine speed is increased. If they remain stationary, a fault exists.
2 The ‘kick-down’ system comprises an accelerator pedalactuated switch and solenoid instead of a cable mechanism as fitted to earlier models. 3 A starter inhibitor - reverse lamp switch is fitted which is not adjustable itself but relies for correct operation upon the correct setting of the speed selector linkage. 4 The speed selector linkage is of floor-mounted type.
5 Disconnect the leads from the solenoid valve and connect the valve directly to the battery terminals. Again increase the speed of the engine and note whether the control valve remains stationary. If it does, then it is in good condition.
Section
6
With the engine running at normal
idling speed, depress the
EGR control valve diaphragm by pushing in the bottom dished plate with the fingers. The engine will begin to run very unevenly if the valve is in good condition. 7 The checked
water temperature sensor can only be satisfactorily for correct operation with an ohmmeter. Suspend the
sensor in water which is being heated and having connected the ohmmeter to the snesor the following valves should be indicated for a serviceable unit. Water temperature: 59 to 77°F (15 to
25°C) - 2300 to 3700 Q 113 to 131°F (45 to 55°C) - 650 to
908 Q 8 As a regular maintenance operation at 12000 mile (20,000 km) intervals, unbolt the control valve from the mainfold and wire brush the seat of the valve to remove all deposits. Finally blow the seat clean with air from a tyre pump.
a 5
Ignition system
Distributor - general description 1
The distributor fitted to the L20B
type engine is of single
contact breaker type and it has the condenser mounted internally. 2 Reference should be made to Specifications for differences between this type of distributor and the one used in conjunction
with earlier designs of engine. 3 Servicing and adjustment of the contact points and lubrication are as described in Chapter 4 except that a wick is provided for lubrication of the cam.
Distributor - removal, installation and ignition timing 1 These operations are similar to those described in Chapter 4 except that the correct static setting for both manual and auto-
matic transmission models is 12° btde.
Removal and installation 1
The
procedure
is similar
to that described
25, except that the vacuum
in Chapter
8,
tube must be disconnected
from the vacuum diaphragm and the electrical leads disconnected from the downshift solenoid. No ‘kick-down’ cable is fitted. 2 Access to the driveplate/torque converter bolts is now obtained by removing the rubber plug in the engine rear plate.
‘Kick-down’ facility - fault rectification 1
Failure
of the transmission
to downshift
from
3rd to 2nd
speed may be due to too high a road speed, incorrect adjustment of the accelerator pedal switch or a faulty solenoid.
2
The ‘kick-down’ switch should be adjusted so that when the
pedal is depressed to about 7/8 of its stroke, the switch will be heard to close with a distinct click. 3 Apart from checking the electrical leads to the solenoid for continuity and security, any other malfunction must be due to a faulty solenoid which must be renewed as a unit.
Speed selector linkage and inhibitor switch - adjustment 1 Failure of the switch will be indicated by incorrect operation of the starter motor (actuation in other than ‘N’ or ‘P’ positions) and illumination of the reverse lamps in selector positions other than ‘R’. 2 Disconnect the speed selector remote control rod from the hand control lever. 3 Turn the selector range lever to ‘N’. In this mode, the lever to shaft slot will appear vertical. 4 Place the hand control lever in the ‘N’ position and connect the remote control rod to it so that the joint trunnion will enter the hole at the base of the hand lever without any need to move the hand lever in a sideways direction. If necessary, release the two control rod locknuts at the trunnion to achieve perfect alignment. 5 Check all the speed selector positions and note that a distinct
‘click’ should be heard at each detent.
6 Remove the two switch body securing bolts and then unscrew the screw located beneath the body. Insert a thin rod
271
Fig. 13.35 Testing water temperature sensor (E.G.R. system)
©)
6)
(8)
®
Fig. 13.36 Sectional view of D4A2-01 type distributor
1 2 3
Cap Segment Rotor
4
Condenser
5 6 7
Breaker plate Shaft Body
8 9
Drive collar Counter weight
10 11.
Cam Carbon brush
272
Fig. 13.37 Exploded view of type D4A2-01 distributor
Cap
6
Contact breaker
10
Counter weight
Rotor Condenser Ground wire
7
Breaker plate
711
Thrust washer
8
Cam
12
Shaft
9
Counter weight spring
13
Vacuum capsule
QAAwWN™ LT lead
‘ ‘
14
LT
fey
16
Clip Fixing plate
17
Drive collar assembly
terminal
10 10 0
Fig. 13.38 Engine ignition timing marks
Fig. 13.39 HT lead connection diagram
ae
Punch mark
Front |||
We Oil hole
Fig. 13.40 Sequence of installation of oil pump drive spindle (no. 1 piston at TDC) to provide correct setting of distributor drive tongue.
SeeeoedODGSDPDD
OD
Up
OAD
BH
@
rere2Ai =) Se eet ate = fi +
aes we
fe Sis | Ty | 2) Se Fi
Tightening torque (T) of bolts and nuts kg-m (ft-lb)
@ ©
T: 4toS$ (29 to 36) T : 14 to 16 (101 to 116) T: 4.5 ta 5.5 (33 to 40)
©
= T: 0.6 to 0.8 (4.3 to 5.8)
© © @®
T:0.5 to 0.7 (3.6to5.1) T: 2.0to 2.5 (14 to 18) T:1.3to 18 (9.4 to 13)
@M
T:055tw0.75
Hie
f HO
(4.0 to 5.4)
Sita' 0-35
(1.8 to 2.5) Fig. 13.41 Sectional view of the automatic transmission
3 4
Casing Oil pump Front clutch Brake band
5
Rearclutch
1 2
6 7 8 9 10
Front planetary gear Rear planetary gear One way clutch Lowand reverse brake
11. 12 13 14
Governor Output shaft
Oil distributor
715
Control valve
Rear extension Oil pan
16 17 18 19
Input shaft Torque converter Converter housing Drive plate
274
Fig. 13.42 Hydraulic pressure (vacuum) regulator -
automatic transmission
Fig. 13.44 Location of downshift solenoid
(automatic transmission)
Fig. 13.45 Details of inhibitor switch (automatic transmission)
Internal rotor
Manual shaft
Wesher Whom
4
5
Nut
Plate
6
Nu
t
8
7
Washer
9
Switch WiIke
Range selector lever
275
Tightening torque (T) of nuts and serews kg-m (ft-lb)
o
T 20.07 to 0.13 (0.51 to 0.94)
F
T: 3 to 4 (22. to 29)
Te eto 2212016)
S
@
F)
6)
6)
H
& ~ 1: 0.35 to 0.45 (2.5 to 3.3) T: 0.8 to 1.1 (5.8 to 8.0)
H
Fig. 13.46 Automatic transmission speed selector linkage
1 2
Control lever knob Pushrod
3 4
Control lever Speed selector rnage lever
5 6
7
Control lever bracket Joint trunnion
Selector rod
ee
Tightening torque (T) of bolts and nuts kg-m (ft-lb)
Fig. 13.47 Sectional view of R.160 differential ‘i
;
: isp erie drive lange 3
Front pilot bearing
4
Spacer
5 6
Drive pinion Front bearing
@
T: 17 to 20 (123 to 145)
@
T:0.9 to 1.2 (6.5 to 8.7)
C
T:6 to 8 (43 to 58)
D. T:7to8 (51 to 58)
,
8 9
Adjusting spacer Pinion rear bearing 10 Pinion height adjusting 12 ’O’ ring 13 Oil seal 14 Side retainer
ae
i
ra
®
ip
®
are 1 Dy) a d “a Solel, \ =| a
2
|I {
al lie
I
24 Thrust washer
és
U
Va A.
i
8 ——
26 Lock pin 27 Tab washer
Wi
/ Ht EB
Ap
22 Thrust washer 25 Side gear
“| iAS = be
= a
a;
e1
rsA
D.
20 Breather
23 Pinion pin
@)
ee
16 Case
18 Rear cover 19 Differential mounting
7)
et
DP
hI CH ‘eta
27,
15 Side bearing
17 Pinion shaft
6
ay)
\
ks
\\
7 Adjusting washer
washer 11 Shim
|
€1
tS
“lod HAG |
al Ie a}
|
4 —4 ll
py AW Le
Ole
.
276 Fig. 13.48 Sectional view of type H190 differential unit Drive pinion nut
Companion drive flange Oil seal Front bearing Bearing adjusting washer Bearing adjusting spacer Drive pinion Rear bearing Pinion height adjusting washer WOMNAHAWY™ 10 Lock pin 11 Side bearing adjusting shim 12 Side bearing 13 Side gear 14 Thrust washer 15 Case 16 Thrust washer 17 Pinion gearwheel 18 Pinion pin 19 Crownwheel 20 Bearing cap bolt 21 Crownwheel bolt 22 Locking tab
Tightening torque (T) of bolts and nut kg-m (ft-lb) A)
T: 14 to 17 (101 to 123)
(®
T:5 to6 (36 to 43)
¢)
T:7 to 8 (SI to 58)
L: 198.40 to 198.55 mm (7.8110 to 7.8169 in)
Tightening torque (T) of bolts and nut kg-m (ft-lb)
@ T:
More than 14 (101)
OT: 5106 (36to43) ©T : 7108 (51 to 58)
L : 173.23 to 173,29 mm (6.8201 to 6.8224 in)
Fig. 13.49 Sectional view of type H165B differential unit
Companion driving flange Oil seal Pinion front bearing
Collapsible spacer Drive pinion Pinion rear bearing
Pinion height adjusting washer Lock pin WOBMBNAGAWHYO™ Side bearing 10 Side bearing adjusting shim 11 Side gear
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Thrust washer Thrust washer Pinion gear wheel Pinion pin Crownwheel Case Locking tab
Chapter 13/Supplement for 2000cc (119 cu in) model
9
277
Electrical system
Alternator - general description 1
1974
onward
models
are
equipped
with
either
a
type
LT150-05B alternator or a type LT160-19 for Canada only. In the former type, pack type silicon diodes are incorporated whereas the later type has conventional diodes.
Starter motor - general description 1 The starter motor fitted to vehicles with manual transmission is as described in Chapter 10, but vehicles equipped with automatic transmission have a heavier duty type unit.
Lamp units - bulb renewal Fig. 13.50 Checking pinion preload using a torque wrench
(0.0591
in - 1.5 mm
dia) into the screw hole so that it passes
into the hole in the internal rotor of the switch. Tighten the switch body bolts, remove the rod and refit the screw. 7 Check the operation of the switch, if it is still faulty, renew it complete.
Rear axle
1 Three differing types of differential unit are fitted to 1974 models. Sedan and hardtop models (having independent rear susPension) are equipped with the type R160. differential carrier. 2 Station wagons having leaf type rear suspension are equipped with a rigid back axle and the differential unit may be the type H190 for vehicles with manual transmission or the type H165B for those with automatic transmission.
The pinion oil seal cannot be renewed
without removing the
differential carrier from the axle casing, due to the fact that the collapsible spacer must be renewed in conjunction with the oil removed
the
differential
carriers,
take
off the side
bearing caps and withdraw the differential gear case assembly. 3 Remove the drive pinion nut and extract the drive pinion assembly. Prise out the oil seal. 4 “Install a new oil seal and locate a new collapsible spacer on the drive pinion. Insert the drive flange in the seal.
5 Insert the drive pinion into the drive flange from the rear of the differential carrier and then tighten the pinion nut carefully until all pinion end-play is eliminated. The nut must now be tightened to provide a turning torque at the drive flange of be-
tween 4.4 and 6.4 Ib (2.0 and 2.9 kg). This can be checked with a suitably calibrated torque wrench or a spring balance. Tighten the nut progressively but only a fraction at a time until the
correct turning torque (pinion bearing preload) is achieved. The Pinion
nut
will usually
have
to be tightened
in excess
of 100
lb/ft (13.8 kg/m) before the preload comes within the specified figure. Should the nut be overtightened in error, the spacer will have to be renewed as backing off the nut will not restore the adjustment due to the fact that the spacer will have been over compressed.
i
8
The units are located on the foot pedal support bracket. The
1 2 3
Braking system
Remove the console box and raise the indicator finisher. Extract the socket and renew the bulb. Refit the finisher and the console box.
Steering lock and ignition switch Operations
on
these
components
are
similar
to those des-
cribed in Chapter 10, Sections 35 and 36 but the differing design should be noted.
1 The wiper motor is now fitted with a three speed control. First position - intermittent wipe; second position - slow continuous wipe; third position - high speed continuous wipe.
2 The intermittent wipe is controlled through an amplifier unit located just below the bonnet lock release handle. 3. In the event of failure in this particular motor setting, check all the electrical connections to the amplifier and if the fault still persists, renew the amplifier complete.
Theft protection system: 1 The system comprises the ignition switch, door operated switch and a warning buzzer. The buzzer sounds when the driver’s
door
is opened
from
inside
the vehicle
without
the
ignition key having been removed from the lock. 2 Apart from checking the security of the electrical leads, any malfunction within the system will necessitate renewal of the the door switch, the buzzer or both. It should be noted that door switch also serves to actuate the interior courtesy light.
Rear window demister 1
The filament is of printed circuit type on the interior surface
of the rear window. Normal care: should be exercised when cleaning the glass so that any rings which may be worn do not scratch or damage the filament. 2 In the event of the filament being broken it can be repaired using special conductive silver composition but this is a job for your Datsun dealer.
Starter interlock system - general description 1
ed in Chapter 9, The braking system is similar to that describ models
are
equipped
n in This system is installed in vehicles destined for operatio
es. North America (not Canada) and in certain other territori
Aes
General description
except that all 1974 onward brakes on the front wheels.
transmission speed selector indicator - bulb
Windscreen wiper motor - three speed operation
Pinion oil seal (type H165B differential) - renewal
seal. 2 Having
1
larger (pink) one is the turn signal unit and the smaller (gold)
Automatic renewal
General description
1.
Flasher units - renewal
nn
SEE EEEEEE EEEREEEEE
i
13.53 and 13.54).
one is the hazard warning unit. 2 To renew either unit, simply pull it from its retaining clip and then disconnect the leads.
EEEEEEEEEE EEE EEE
7
The design of the lamps on 1974 onward models is similar to that of previous models except that the front side marker lamp and the license plate lamp on Sedan models, are as shown (Figs.
with
disc
the warning 2 The system ensures that the engine will start and the following buzzer and lamp will remain inoperative only when condition has been complied with.
278
Fig. 13.51 Exploded view of type LT 150-05B alternator
1 2 3
Pulley assembly Drive end cover Front bearing
4 5 6
Rotor Rear bearing Brush assembly
7 8 9
Rear cover Diode assembly Diode cover
70 771
Tie bolts Stator
Fig. 13.52 Exploded view of type LT160-19 alternator 1
Pulley assembly
4
Rotor
2 3
Drive end cover Front bearing
5 6
Rear bearing Stator
7
Diode assembly
. 8 9
Rear cover Brush assembly
10 11
Diode cover ‘Tie bolts
279
Fig. 13.56 Sectional view of speed selector lever (2) and indicator lamp (1) - automatic transmission
to 1974 Fig. 13.57 Steering lock and ignition switch fitted models
r unit Fig. 13.58 Windshield wiper (intermittent wiper) amplifie
280
(Ge
Interlock
emergency
Fig.
13.60 Starter interlock system emergency switch
Ss
pBod O®W
©
Fig. 13.62 Starter interlock unit 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
From driver’s seat switch For driver's belt switch From passenger’s seat switch For passenger seat switch From battery From ignition switch From interlock relay
8 9 10 11
12
For battery From driver's seat Switch From passenger’s seat switch For neutral switch or relay For oil pressure switch
Fig. 13.63 Location of belt switch
Chapter 13/Supplement for 2000cc (119 cu in) model
281
Front seat belts are fastened after driver or Passenger seated. 3 For the purpose of vehicle maintenance, the engine can be started if neither front seat is occupied (belts remain un-
fastened). 4
The
warning
buzzer and lamp come
on immediately should
the driver or front passenger not have fastened his belt and the gearshift lever is in any position except neutral and the ignition key is turned to ‘ON’. The starter interlock relay operates if the key is turned to the ‘START’ position under these conditions.
5 In an emergency, the engine can be started by turning the ignition key to ‘ON’ and then pressing the button on the emergency switch under the bonnet and then turning the ignition switch to ‘START’.
Starter interlock system - component testing and renewal 1 The seat switch is located beneath the driver's and passenger's seats. 2
To remove a switch, the seat must be unbolted from the floor
(4 bolts) and turned upside down. 3
The interlock unit is mounted under the passenger seat. To
remove
it, disconnect
the leads at the two connectors and the
unbolt the passenger seat (4 bolts). The unit is secured by two screws. 4 To check the switch, use a test lamp between connector ‘E’ and each connector pin in turn. When the top cover of the switch is depressed, continuity should exist but when released, the circuit should be open. 5 The belt switch is integral with the seat belt fastener and in the event of a fault, both components must be renewed as an assembly. Remove the switch after unbolting the seat. 6 Test for continuity between two leads from the seat belt switch using a test lamp. When the seat belt is fastened there should not be continuity but when released, continuity should exist. 7 The interlock relay is located within the engine compartment together with the neutra/ relay. Either unit may be removed after disconnecting the connector plug. 8 To test the interlock relay, use a test lamp and check that continuity exists only between 1 and 3 and 4 and 5. When 12 volt current is applied to 4 and 5, continuity must exist between 1 and 2 instead of 1 and 3. During this last test, the battery positive terminal must be connected to connector pin 1. 9 A neutral switch is installed on the rear extension housing of the manual gearbox. The serviceability of the switch may be checked by using a test lamp between the two switch leads. When the switch plunger is depressed, continuity should now exist but when it is extended, continuity should be established. 10 The inhibitor switch installed on automatic transmission units is described in Section 6, to which reference should be made. The switch performs the function of a neutral switch as required by the starter interlock system. 11 The neutral relay installed adjacent to the interlock relay within the engine compartment can be tested with a test lamp. In a serviceable condition, continuity should exist between 5 and 6 and 2 and 4. If 12 volt current is applied to 5 and 6, then continuity will exist between 1 and 3 instead of between 2 and
4. 12 The
interlock
emergency
switch
can
be
tested
in the
following manner. When the switch button is depressed, continuity should exist between 2 and 4 and 3 and 1. When 12volt current is applied to 3 and 1 and the button depressed, continuity will be maintained between 2 and 4 even after the button is released.
Fuses
The fuse block is located just below the parcels shelf and the of the atrangement of circuit protection is shown on the cover block.
Fig. 13.66 Location of back-up switch (1) and neutral switch (2) on manual transmission. Neutral switch shown in section
282
Cocoon § omen amma UHH
f.
FT
S$ pny rm 11000 m8
= O®
Fig. 13.67 Neutral relay circuit and connector
8
Hae)
SEAT Sw RH
Can 8 Si =
wate
Boge meee
[
RKER
t
RADIO UNIT REAR
5-O
BEFoooer a
TURN
fomip Cam
CIGAR LIGHTER
REAR COMBINATION LAMP RW
i
fomeso Ppcooss
Rs GY
8 INTERLOCK
Tail Reap
uNiT
CIRCUT
Back uP LAMP
ee osssseas:
Bw
— (SS
HHA
+ vo 1 Te
==
ee00 si
= .
Pioo
o
na
San
Sane
ROOM
OT} Lames
LICENSE Lame
[tS
Backue
owe RY‘
“STEARING LOCK Sw
TRUNK
60
a
+ ——— s ad 4 H
CENTER HANO a fae
sg Alsbsle
CAMP a
Tap
LH
@ SW.
{EH *
TURN SiGNAL SW
L
L 8
?
|
8-OO
Si-O
6 ee
88
Freie
mazar Sw
fy §w KNOB SLLUMINATION 8 By ur cR tw
ew
=
STOP
ey gel
88-05 Tasne
DEFOGGER PILOT Lame
HY
ew er
SEAT BELT SW LH
ayre DEFRGGER be "| bel: 85)
tame
LAMP
REAR, COMBINATION =
—> a)
ce LG
ow)
RK
SEAT BELT SW RH
|
TAIL
TURN
oO
Lp. u
ares)
j2
SEAT SW LH BUZZER
rrBOR
8
ad
ae
Iu
aA
DOOR Sw LH
Fig. 13.68 Starter interlock emergency switch circuit and
connector
WHITE REO YELLOW GREEN BLUE
WIPER Sw
ww
GODE
—_
:
:
BL ack
REAR SIDE MARKER L
284
OG
HH
x3 mineeeie adfd x nz
=
3 2x »
aKeio) + ae
flics iii sseeenHicay fr
0
hinecneinll
oS & ” 7 BL
rr
WR
Wiring diagram - USA automatic transmission models (1974)
Fig. 13.69 Location of fuse block
SEAT SW. RH.
REAR SIDE MARKER LAMP RH.
(ie
P cx ‘e400 3 ryPp