Cooking from the Farmers' Market 1740899792, 9781740899796

Citation preview

COOKING from the

farmers ’ market Foreword Jennifer Maiser Recipes Tasha De Serio & Jodi Liano Photographs Maren Caruso

CONTENTS Discover The Pleasures of Eating Seasonally, Organically, and Locally The Farm ers’ Market

8

Seasonal Vegetables 12 Seasonal Fruits 14

VEGETABLES Beans & Peas 19 Cabbages & Other Crucifers 57

Leafy Greens Roots & Tubers

77

Squashes 107 Stalks, Shoots & Bulbs 121 Onions & Cousins 133 Vegetable Fruits 145 Other Vegetables 165

FRUITS Berries 181 Citrus 195 Melons

213 221

Stone Fruits

235

Tree Fruits Other Fruits

255

Basic Recipes

262

Techniques Index

266

26 4

39

7

DISCOVER THE PLEASURES OF EATING SEASONALLY, ORGANICALLY, AND LOCALLY Today, m ore and m ore people are realizing the joys of shopping, cooking, and eating from the farm ers’ m arket. Straight from the farm , bountiful and colorful displays of produce m ake it easy to prepare healthy, flavorful m eals using the freshest fruits and vegetables at the peak of their season. The benefits of shopping and m ingling at your local m arket are m any: m eeting the rancher who brings juicy, organic steaks; sam pling the season’s first sweet peaches or corn; purchasing cream y goat’s cheese from a local cheesem onger for a special m eal; or holding a loaf of still-warm bread fresh from the baker’s oven—each is an experience that w ill enable you to eat the best foods available. And as an added benefit, by choosing seasonal, organic food, you are not only supporting local producers, you are eating whole foods that are good for your health, and you are guaranteed that the food you eat is im peccably fresh. This book will show you delicious ways to use farm ers’ m arket produce for every course of the m eal. The recipes are arranged by fruits or vegetables, and each is designed to be sim ple enough for busy hom e cooks to prepare any tim e of the week. Each m outhwatering recipe lets the featured ingredient shine. A salad of sm all new potatoes with a piquant m ustard vinaigrette, a side dish of fresh beans tossed in olive oil and lem on, and a hom em ade strawberry-rhubarb pie elevate ingredients from the sim ple to the inspired when the produce was harvested just before you purchased it at the m arket. With this book as your guide, you’ll discover that fresh ingredients at their peak of ripeness require little effort to be transform ed into satisfying, nourishing m eals—som ething to be enjoyed that m uch m ore when you sit down to eat.

7

8

TH E FARM ERS ’ M ARKET

THE FARMERS’ MARKET The farm ers’ m arket is becom ing the town square of m odern tim es. Not only can you shop there for im peccably fresh foods, you can catch up with your friends as you browse; you can introduce your children to the pleasures of fresh food; you can ask the apple grower about the best way to cook his prized fruits. In short, regular visits to the farm ers’ m arket help m ake your whole life m ore vibrant. What ’s in Season

than a tom ato purchased in January and shipped from

Do you rem em ber the joy of eating cherries as a child? I used

a distant grower. As you enjoy a pear so juicy that you have

to anticipate the sum m er m onths when sweet, juicy cherries

to eat it over the sink, you’ll understand that buying in-season

would be available, and then I’d eat them until I couldn’t

produce is a gift to yourself and your fam ily.

possibly eat another. Cherries were a special treat because they cam e around only once a year, and I knew I’d have to wait an entire year to eat them again.

An added bonus of eating in-season fruits and vegetables is that they often cost less than foods that are brought in from far away places. When farm ers have a generous supply of a

Cooking in concert w ith the seasons is an age-old idea.

particular item , the price is usually very fair, m aking it a sensible

Before m ass transportation, people ate only what was growing

way to help m anage your food budget.

in gardens, nearby farm s, or orchards. Today, however, produce is transported from all corners of the world. And while these

Why Organic

item s m ay appear beautiful, the flavor of out-of-season

In the United States, the selling of organic produce is tightly

produce cannot com pare w ith that of fruits or vegetables

controlled and regulated. Labeling that certifies organic produce

harvested at their peak.

is a great asset for consum ers. When you see the certified

Seasonality m ay initially m ake you feel like you have to

organic label on produce, you can be assured that farm ers

deprive yourself, but once you incorporate it into your m eal

have followed strict guidelines. For exam ple, they do not use

planning, you’ll see that it offers abundance. Blueberry season

chem ical pesticides and they m ust grow their produce in soil

gives way to apricot season, which m erges into corn season,

that has been free from chem ical input. This m eans that all

and on it goes. My m enus are constantly changing as they

you taste in that just-picked carrot is pure, true, carrot flavor.

reflect the tim e of year. It’s an exciting way to eat.

Additionally, by buying organic produce, you can be assured

Of the m any reasons to eat seasonally, one of the best is that

that you and your fam ily are protected from harm ful chem icals.

the food sim ply tastes am azing. As you m ove toward eating this

Som e certified organic products can be expensive, so if you

way, you m ay re-discover the flavors of your childhood. You’ll

are watching your wallet, you can prioritize these item s by

notice that an in-season tom ato is alm ost a different fruit

deciding which ones are the best to buy. Vegetables and

Tips for the Market BUY SO METHING NEW Shopping at a farm ers’ m arket opens your eyes to new varieties of vegetables and fruits. Each tim e you go, don’t be afraid to choose one or two produce item s that you’ve never cooked w ith before. This book w ill show you at least three delicious ways to prepare them .

BE FLEXIBLE While you m ay head to the m arket w ith the outline of a m eal and a general list, be ready to change your plan if the item s you need are not in season. For exam ple, if your recipe calls for spinach and it’s not at the m arket that day, but you see big, beautiful bunches of kale or chard, snap them up. You can also ask vendors for cooking suggestions. You’ll find they can be very knowledgeable about preparing and cooking their beloved products.

TASTE BEFO RE YO U BUY Many farm ers’ m arket vendors offer sam ples of their products and encourage you to taste. Peaches, for exam ple, can vary from highly acidic to super sweet. You won’t know what you prefer until you try what’s available. Sam pling is also a great way to learn m ore about the different varieties of produce w ithin a fam ily or new hybrids or heirloom s that are specially suited to your clim ate.

BRING YO UR OW N BAGS You can lessen your im pact on the environm ent by bringing your ow n bags to the m arket. A couple of canvas bags, a few plastic produce bags, and containers for delicate item s w ill help you to bring all your m arket treasures hom e safely. If you’re not returning hom e right away, bring a sm all ice chest for perishables.

10

TH E FARM ERS ’ M ARKET

fruits that have an edible peel or skin —such as bell peppers, strawberries, potatoes, or apples—or a lot of surface area—such as celery, lettuces, and fresh herbs—should preferably be organic. If you’re opting for conventionally grown fruits and vegetables in som e cases, choose those with peels that you can rem ove. For exam ple, when m y budget is tight, I buy nonorganic avocados, citrus, and bananas from vendors I trust.

Buying Local “Sorry about the broccoli,” a farm er said to m e one m orning at the farm ers’ m arket. I looked dow n at the broccoli, w hich still had ice crystals. “ We just picked it, and it was an icy m orning.” It was 10 a.m . The broccoli had been out of the ground for just four hours and had travelled about fifty m iles to get to m e. I sim ply sm iled and thought about how delicious the just-picked vegetable would taste in the stir-fry that I would m ake with it that sam e evening. Local food is good because it tends to be m ore flavorful than food that has been transported from afar. The faster a bunch of broccoli can get from the ground to your plate, the fresher it will taste, and the m ore likely you and your fam ily will want to eat it. Buying local food also sim plifies the cooking process. When food is fresh, the addition of only a few bright flavorings is all you need to help the dish shine. If you think of freshness as the m ost im portant ingredient in your cooking, your dishes will only get better from there. Buying local foods gives you the opportunity to purchase directly from the farm er. By doing this, you can establish a relationship with the people who are growing your food, and then help support their business, knowing that you are buying quality products, and you know where your food com es from .

Also at the Market The farm ers’ m arket has far m ore to offer than just produce. Here are som e exam ples of other item s that are likely m ade in your com m unity.

MEAT

PO ULTRY

Ranchers selling locally raised, free-range m eats and poultry are also often at the farm ers’ m arket. Look for those who feed their anim als a well-rounded diet and allow them to roam free, which contributes to great flavor.

SEAFO O D If you live close to water, you are likely to find a local fishm onger selling fresh fish and shellfish. While no organic standards have been set for seafood, the fish or shellfish will likely have been caught or harvested just before arriving at the farm stand.

DAIRY Cheese is a staple at the farm ers’ m arket and dairy farm ers or cheese m akers from every region w ill boast their ow n type depending on whether sheep, cow s, or goats are raised in the area. You can often substitute locally grow n cheeses for the m ore traditional, im ported varieties of cheese called for in a recipe. For exam ple, a locally produced firm (or aged) sheep’s m ilk or dry jack cheese could stand in for an Italian rom ano or Parm esan cheese.

O THER PRO DUCTS Look for other edible item s sold by artisans who use local ingredients in their products. You’ll often see bread, olive oil, nuts, jam s and preserves, honey, and confections am ong the produce vendors.

INGREDIENTS

12

SEASO N AL VEGETABLES

CH ARTS

SEASONAL VEGETABLES All vegetables have a peak season

BEANS & PEAS shell beans fava beans

where they flourish and taste best. Most

green beans

are available during certain tim es of the

long beans

year while others, such as cauliflower,

w ax beans

carrots, fennel, and avocados, can be

english peas

found over the course of a few seasons.

snow peas

Use the chart to the right as a guide to

sugar snap peas

determ ine seasonality and as a key for

SPRING

pea shoots

when certain vegetables should appear CABBAGES & OTHER CRUCIFERS

at the m arket. You can then find ways broccoli

to use those vegetables by looking up cauliflow er

recipes in this book. brussels sprouts broccoli rabe green cabbage red cabbage LEAFY GREENS delicate let tuces sturdy let tuces arugula spinach chicories chard kale

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

INGREDIENTS

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

INGREDIENTS

starchy potatoes

onions

w axy potatoes

sw eet onions

new potatoes

garlic

sw eet potatoes

green garlic

beets

leeks

carrots

green onions

parsnips

VEGETABLE FRUITS

celery root

tom atoes

turnips

heirloom tom atoes

rutabagas

cucum bers

radishes

pickling cucum bers

SQUASHES

sw eet peppers

zucchini

padrón peppers

squash blossom s

chiles

yellow squash

dried chiles

pat t ypan squash

avocados

acorn squash

eggplants

but ternut squash

OTHER VEGETABLES

pum pkin

m ushroom s

kabocha squash

sw eet corn

STALKS, SHOOTS & BULBS

artichokes

celery fennel asparagus

AUTUMN

WINTER

13

SEASO N AL VEGETABLES

ONIONS & COUSINS

SUMMER

CH ARTS

ROOTS & TUBERS

SPRING

INGREDIENTS

14

SEASO N AL FRU ITS

CH ARTS

SEASONAL FRUITS Like vegetables, fruits also have peak

BERRIES straw berries fraises des bois

season where they flourish and taste

blackberries

best. While m ost are available for just

raspberries

one season, others, such as oranges,

blueberries

plum s, and rhubarb, can be grown

huckleberries

and harvested a few tim es throughout

cranberries

the year. Use the chart to the right to determ ine seasonality and as a key for when certain fruits appear at

CITRUS lem ons m eyer lem ons

the farm ers’ m arket. Then, choose lim es

a recipe in the book to prepare using key lim es

that ingredient. oranges blood oranges tangerines m andarins grapefruits pom elos MELONS cantaloupe honeydew galia m elons w aterm elon

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

INGREDIENTS STONE FRUITS apricots pluots cherries sour cherries nectarines peaches plum s aprium s TREE FRUITS apples pears asian pears pom egranates quinces figs persim m ons hachiya persim m ons OTHER FRUIT rhubarb grapes

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

Beans SHELL BEANS

Peas

The m a ny va rie tie s o f be a n s a nd pe a s be long to the le g um e botanical group. With som e e xceptions, beans are generally m ild

EDAMAME FAVA BEANS

in fla vor a nd ha ve a te xture tha t ra nge s from cre a m y to crisp. Pea s, on the other hand, are sim ilarly varie d in ta ste, from swe e t to ple a sa n tly subtle with a swe e t te xture. Am ong the world ’s

GREEN BEANS LONG BEANS

oldest foods, legum es have been grown in parts of the Am ericas, Asia, and Europe for m illennia. Fre sh beans fall into two broad ca te gorie s: pod beans and shell

W AX BEANS ROMANO BEANS

beans. Pod beans, such a s gre en beans and rom ano beans, are ea ten whole with the pods. For shell beans, such a s fre sh fava (broad ) beans, only the inner se e ds can be consum e d.

ENGLISH PEAS Like pod beans, snow pea s (also known a s m angetouts ) and

SNOW PEAS SUGAR SNAP PEAS

sugar snap pea s are eaten whole. English pea s, a type of shelling pea, m ust be rem ove d from their pods. A spring garden staple, pea s such a s English pea s are harve ste d

PEA SHOOTS

when young and tender. Other type s of fre sh beans and pea s m a ture in spring and sum m er. In m ost ca se s, the younger they are, the be tter the le gum e will be.

BUYING SHELL BEANS Look for beans that are still slightly m oist. If they are in the pods, you should be able to feel round beans inside and the pods should be pliable, not crisp. Store the pods in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If the beans are shelled and you are not using them right away, blanch them ( page 26 4) , place them in an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Shell Beans Be a ns a re a m ong the first foods dom e stica te d, a nd a rcha e ologists ha ve found e vide nce o f their wide spre a d use in the Me dite rra ne a n a nd Am e rica s from a s e a rly a s 9 ,0 0 0 B.C. She ll be a n s a re a ny o f the 5 0 0 va rie tie s o f be a ns grown a round the world whose pods a re re m ove d a nd typica lly no t e a te n. Po pula r va rie tie s includ e fa va (bro a d ) be a n s, cra nbe rry (borlo tti) be a n s, lim a be a n s, chickpe a s (g a rba n zo be a n s), bla ck be a n s, a nd sca rle t runne r be a ns. Fre sh shell be a ns, a vaila ble in la te sum m e r a nd e a rly autum n, ha ve a swe e t a nd cre a m y ta ste tha t ca nno t be m a tche d by drie d be a ns. Fre sh she ll be a n s sh ould be e a te n within a fe w d a ys o f purcha se , be fore the y dry ou t. The se be a n s ne e d to be re m ove d from their pods but ca n be pre pa re d in the sa m e ways a s their drie d counte rpa rts, but take le ss tim e to cook. They ta ste gre a t on their own alongside poultry a nd fish, in soups, or puré e d to m ake a spre a d.

WORKING WITH SHELL BEANS If you have purchased shell beans still in the pod, rem ove the beans from the pod just before cooking. Fresh shell beans tend to cook m uch faster than dried shell beans, so be sure to pay attention to cooking tim es; rem ove shell beans from the heat as soon as they becom e tender.

BUYING FAVA BEANS Look for soft, pale green pods packed w ith pale green beans that resem ble lim a beans. The pods, 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm ) long, contain a w hite, pillow y lining that protects the beans. Avoid beans that are bulging out of their pods, as they w ill be tough and starchy. The beans can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Fava Beans Pale gre e n, fla t fa va be a ns, also known a s broa d be a ns, English be a ns, or horse be a ns, grow in pods on bushy flowe ring pla nts 2 to 3 fe e t (6 0 cm to 1 m ) tall. Their pods re se m ble ve ry la rge, thick pe a pods. Availa ble brie fly in the spring m onths, they a re be st ha rve ste d while still young a nd te nde r. With their ple a sa ntly bitte r fla vor, fa va be a ns ha ve be e n popula r in Me dite rra ne a n a nd Middle Ea ste rn cuisine s for m a ny ce nturie s. Although the se be a ns take tim e to pre pa re —they m ust be bla nche d to re m ove their tough outer skin —they are well worth the e ffort, as their delicious flavor can be enjoyed in a varie ty of dishes such a s salads, soups, a nd pa sta . They a re e xcelle nt bla nche d whole a nd se rve d sim ply toppe d with olive oil, se a salt, a nd sha ve d ha rd che e se , or puré e d in to a sm o o th a nd cre a m y spre a d to e a t with fla t bre a d.

WORKING WITH FAVA BEANS Once rem oved from their pods, the tough outer skin should be peeled away from the fava beans. Blanch the shelled beans for 1 m inute in boiling w ater, drain, and let the beans cool. Pinch the beans to slip off their skins. If the beans are young and fresh and no bigger than your thum bnail, you m ay find the skinning to be unnecessary.

Cranberry Bean, Broccoli Rabe & Bacon Salad

Roasted Chicken Breasts with Fresh Beans & Sage

Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham & Pasta

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 8 SERVINGS

4 cups (2 lb/ 1 kg) fresh cranberry (borlotti) beans, shelled

4 cups (2 lb/ 1 kg) fresh shelling beans, shelled

11⁄2 lb (750 g) sm oked ham hock

Salt and freshly ground pepper

5 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) olive oil

4 cups (2 lb/ 1 kg) fresh cannellini beans, shelled

1 bay leaf

3 cloves garlic, peeled

Pinch of red pepper flakes

2 fresh thym e sprigs

1 bay leaf

1 bay leaf

1 lb (500 g) broccoli rabe, stem s rem oved

3 fresh sage leaves

Salt

2 cloves garlic, m inced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 yellow onions, finely diced

4 skin-on boneless chicken breasts, tenders rem oved

⁄4 lb (375 g) tom atoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

PEAS

22

BEAN S

b

SH ELL BEAN S

1

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

⁄4 lb (125 g) thinly sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) pieces 1

3

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Place

3– 4 Tbsp red w ine vinegar Place the beans in a saucepan w ith water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm ) . Add 1 ⁄2 tsp salt, the bay leaf, and thym e and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a sim m er and cook until tender, 15 –25 m inutes. Chop the tender portions of the broccoli rabe. In a large frying pan over m edium -high heat, sauté the garlic in the olive oil until fragrant, 2–3 m inutes. Add the broccoli rabe, 1 ⁄4 tsp salt, and 1 ⁄2 tsp pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the greens are tender, 4 – 5 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat and cover.

the beans in a heavy pot and add water to

2 tsp chopped fresh rosem ary

cover by 1 inch (2 .5 cm ) . Add 1 Tbsp of the

1 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) sm all pasta shells

olive oil, the garlic, bay leaf, sage, and 1 tsp

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a sim m er, and cook until tender, about 30 m inutes. Add

In a large pot over m edium heat, bring the

m ore water to cover the beans, if needed.

ham hock and 3 quarts ( 3 l) water to a boil.

Season to taste w ith salt and set aside.

Skim off any foam , reduce the heat to low,

Season the chicken w ith salt and pepper. In a large ovenproof frying pan over m edium high heat, sear the chicken on one side in 2 Tbsp of the oil, 3 – 4 m inutes. Turn the chicken over and put the pan in the oven. Roast until cooked through, 5 – 8 m inutes. Transfer to a plate, pour any pan drippings

and cook, uncovered, for 30 m inutes. Add the beans, pepper flakes, bay leaf, and a pinch of salt. Return to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and sim m er for 15 m inutes. Add the onions, tom atoes, garlic, and rosem ary and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 30 m inutes. Rem ove the ham hock

In a sm all frying pan, cook the bacon until

around the chicken and let rest for

the fat is translucent, 3 – 4 m inutes. Drain the

3 – 4 m inutes. Spoon the beans and a little

beans and place in a serving bow l. Add

of their cooking liquid on the side of the

the broccoli rabe and the bacon and any

chicken and drizzle w ith the rem aining

Purée 1 cup ( 8 fl oz/ 25 0 m l) of the soup

of its rendered fat. Add vinegar to taste

2 Tbsp olive oil. Serve right away.

base in a blender and return to the pot.

and toss to m ix. Serve right away.

and let cool slightly. Cut the m eat away from the bone and into sm all pieces.

Add the ham , season w ith salt, and let cool to room tem perature. Refrigerate for 4 – 6 hours to develop the flavors. To serve, bring the soup to a boil, add the

EDAMAME

EDAMAME WITH SEA SALT

The Ja pa ne se na m e edam am e re fe rs to ba by

Cook 3 ⁄4 lb ( 3 7 5 g) edamame pods in a large

the pasta is tender, 12–15 m inutes. The

soybe a n s tha t ha ve be e n e njoye d in m a ny

saucepan of salted boiling water until just

soup should be fairly thick; if it is too thick,

Asia n cuisin e s fo r ce n tu rie s. Th e y h a ve

tender, 2 – 3 m inutes ( 3 – 4 m inutes if frozen) .

re ce n tly ca u gh t o n ju st a bo u t e ve ry wh e re .

Rem ove the beans with a slotted spoon

Edam am e a re u su a lly bo ile d in wa te r o r ste a m e d , sprin kle d with sa lt, a n d se rve d whole in the po d. The y ca n a lso be substitu te d for she ll be a n s in m a ny re cipe s.

and plunge into a bowl of ice water. Drain and sprinkle with sea salt. To eat, use your fingers to split the pods to reveal the edible seeds inside. Makes 4 servings.

pasta shells, and cook at a low boil until

thin w ith boiling water. Season w ith salt. Ladle into bow ls, drizzle w ith olive oil, and serve right away.

R O AS TED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH FRESH BEANS

SAGE

FAVA BEANS WITH OLIVE OIL

LEMON

Crostini with Fava Bean Spread

Pasta with Fava Beans, Green Garlic & Prosciutto

Fava Beans with Olive Oil & Lemon

MAKES 10 –12 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

25 1 lar ge bagu et t e, c u t i n t o sli c es 1 ⁄4 i n c h (6 mm) t hi c k

2 lb (1 kg) f r esh f av a (br oad) bean s

Salt an d f r eshly gr ou n d p ep p er

Salt an d f r eshly gr ou n d p ep p er

3 T bsp (3 f l oz / 9 0 ml) heav y (dou ble) c r eam, p lu s mor e i f n eeded

1 lb (500 g) shell- shap ed p ast a, su c h as conchiglie or lumache

Shav ed aged har d c heese, su c h as P ar mesan , f or gar n i sh Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Brush the baguette slices on both sides with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil and bake in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Turn the slices over and bake, about 10 minutes more. Set aside to cool. Remove the fava beans from their pods and discard the pods. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until tender, 2–3 minutes (the amount of time required will depend on the freshness of the beans) . Drain the beans and then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. When cool enough to handle, slip off the skins and discard. In a food processor, process the beans, the remaining 3 Tbsp oil, 3 Tbsp of the cream, 2 tsp salt, 1 tsp pepper, and the mint until a creamy purée forms. If the mixture seems too dry, add up to 3 Tbsp more cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spread the purée on the baguette slices and arrange on a platter. Sprinkle with the cheese and serve right away.

3 T bsp ex t r a- v i r gi n oli v e oi l 2 T bsp f r esh lemon j u i c e 1 c lov e gar li c , mi n c ed 1 T bsp c hop p ed f r esh f lat - leaf (It ali an ) p ar sley

1 ⁄2 t sp gr at ed lemon z est 2 oz (6 0 g) p r osc i u t t o, c u t i n t o t hi n st r i p s 3 ⁄4 c u p (3 oz / 9 0 g) shav ed aged har d 1 ⁄2 c u p (2 oz / 6 0 g) gr at ed aged har d c heese, su c h as P ec or i n o c heese, su c h as P ec or i n o

Remove the fava beans from their pods and discard the pods. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until tender, 2–3 minutes (the amount of time required will depend on the freshness of the beans). Using a slotted spoon, drain the beans and then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. Reserve the cooking water. When cool enough to handle, slip off the skins and discard. In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the 2 Tbsp oil. Add the green garlic and a pinch each of salt and pepper and sauté until the garlic has softened, 2–3 minutes. Stir in the fava beans and cook until warm, 1–2 minutes more. Add a pinch of salt to the water and return to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, 9–11 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Stir the pasta into the beans. Add enough of the pasta water to moisten the pasta. Stir in the prosciutto and half of the cheese. Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle with oil. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and serve right away.

Remove the fava beans from their pods and discard the pods. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until tender, 2–3 minutes (the amount of time required will depend on the freshness of the beans) . Using a slotted spoon, drain the beans and then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. When cool enough to handle, slip off the skins and discard. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, and lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle on top of the beans and toss. Sprinkle the cheese over the top and toss gently. Serve right away.

f ava beans

4 T bsp c hop p ed mi n t

Salt an d f r eshly gr ou n d p ep p er

beans & peas

2 T bsp ex t r a- v i r gi n oli v e oi l, p l,lu s ex t r a f or dr i z z li n g 5 T bsp (3ozf l/ 80 ml) ex t r a- v i r gi n oli v e oi p lu s ex t r a f or br u shi n g 2 T bsp t hi n ly sli c ed gr een gar li c , w hi t e an d li ght gr een p ar t s on ly 2 lb (1 kg) f r esh f av a (br oad) bean s

4 lb (2 kg) f r esh f av a (br oad) bean s

BUYING GREEN BEANS Green beans should snap easily w hen broken. Choose beans that are a vibrant green color w ith velvety sm ooth pods and tips that have not been precut. They should be free from brow n spots or bruises. Green beans can be w rapped in paper towels and stored in a plastic bag for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. To prevent m old, leave the bag open for air circulation.

Green Beans Also calle d sna p be a ns, string be a ns, or runne r be a ns, gre e n be a ns ca n be e a te n whole. Bo th the te nde r pod a nd the sm all se e ds within ha ve a m ild, fre sh, swe e t ta ste. Most gre e n be a ns ha ve thin, cylindrical pods a bout 4 inche s (10 cm ) long with pointe d tips. Popula r va rie tie s found a t the m a rke t a re Blue La ke , Ke n tucky Wo nd e r, Ro m a , a nd young sca rle t runne r be a n s. Ha rico ts ve rts a re slim , delica te gre e n be a ns m uch love d in Fra nce a nd now incre a singly a vaila ble locally a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts. Gre e n be a ns a re a t their be st from e a rly to m id-sum m e r. They take well to a va rie ty o f cooking te chnique s from boiling to ste a m ing, sautéing to de e p-frying. Adde d to soups, they provide contra st and color to other vege table s. Gre e n be a ns a re ide al for ca nning a nd pickling. They a re also e xcellent raw on crudités platters, in composed salads, or se rve d alone, bla nche d, the n chille d with vinaigre tte.

WORKING WITH GREEN BEANS Rinse beans under cold running water. Snap off the pointy stem ends and rem ove any tough strings that run along the length of the bean. Green beans retain their color best w hen cooked w hole at a high tem perature for only a brief period of tim e. Lock in their color and crisp texture by refreshing in cold water im m ediately after cooking.

BUYING WAX BEANS Purchasing w ax beans is m uch like purchasing green beans. Look for beans that are evenly colored, free of brow n spots, and snap when broken. The skin of their pods will be thinner and m ore velvety, and depending on their variety, choose ones that are light to deep yellow or dark purple. Wrap them in dry paper towels and refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days.

Wa x Beans Closely rela te d to gre e n be a ns, wa x be a ns diffe r in their color, which ca n be vibra nt yellow or da rk purple a nd, a s their nam e sugge sts, in that their te xture is slightly wa xier. Like gre e n be a ns, wa x be a ns a re e njoye d whole with pod a nd se e ds, a nd they ta ste m ild a nd fre sh with swe e t, gra ssy ove rtone s. The m ost com m on va rie ty is 4 inche s (10 cm ) long, with a cylindrical pod a nd ta pe re d tips. Also like gre e n be a ns, wa x be a ns a ppe a r a t m a rke ts during the e a rly to m id-sum m e r. Wa x be a ns m ake a colorful side dish ste a m e d or sauté e d with butte r or olive oil. They a re ide al in ve ge ta ble sala ds, pairing well with po ta toe s, be e ts, corn, a nd pe a s. They ca n be a dde d to, or substitute d for, gre e n be a ns in re cipe s.

WORKING WITH WAX BEANS Rinse the beans under cold running water. Snap off the pointy stem ends and rem ove any tough strings that run along the length of the bean. Yellow wax beans retain their color best w hen cooked w hole at a high tem perature for a short period of tim e. The color of purple beans w ill fade slightly w hen cooked.

Tempura String Beans with Aioli

Stewed Green Beans with Tomatoes

Green Beans with Toasted Walnuts

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) ice w ater

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp toasted w alnuts (page 264)

1 large egg, beaten

1 sm all yellow onion, chopped

1–11⁄4 lb (500–625 g) green beans

⁄4 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) sifted all-purpose (plain) flour, plus extra for dusting

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2–3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb (500 g) green beans

Salt

Peanut or vegetable oil for frying

2 cups (12 oz/ 375 g) peeled, seeded, and chopped tom atoes

Chop the walnuts into sm all pieces

1 lb (500 g) green beans

Salt and freshly ground pepper

BEAN S

PEAS

28

3

2 or 3 ice cubes

Bring a large saucepan of salted water

Salt

GREEN BEAN S

and set aside.

Aioli (page 139) In a bow l, w hisk together the ice water and 3

egg. Whisk in the ⁄4 cup flour; the batter should be quite lum py. Add the ice cubes.

In a large frying pan over m edium heat,

to a boil. Add the green beans and cook

warm the olive oil. Add the onion and cook

until tender, about 5 m inutes.

until soft, about 7 m inutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 m inute. Raise the heat to high and add the beans and tom atoes. Bring to a sim m er, reduce the

Pour enough oil into a wok or deep fryer

heat to low, cover, and cook until the beans

to reach halfway up the sides and heat to

are tender, about 30 m inutes. Uncover, raise

350˚F (180˚C) on a deep-frying therm om eter.

the heat to m edium , and continue to cook

Working in batches, lightly dust the beans

until m ost of the liquid has evaporated,

w ith flour, then dip in the batter, shaking

about 10 m inutes m ore. Season w ith salt

off the excess. Fry, stirring occasionally, until

and pepper.

crisp, about 3 m inutes. Drain on paper towels and season w ith salt.

Drain the beans and place in a shallow dish. Toss w ith the olive oil and sprinkle w ith 1 tsp salt. Scatter the walnuts over the beans. Serve warm or at room tem perature.

Transfer to a serving plate and serve hot or at room tem perature.

Serve right away w ith the Aioli for dipping.

LONG BEANS

LONG BEANS WITH SESAME SEEDS

Also ca lle d ya rd-long be a n s, the se ve ry long,

Toast 11 ⁄2 Tbsp sesam e seeds in a sm all frying

garlic clove, and 1 m inced serrano chile and

rounde d po d be a n s a re sim ila r to g re e n

pan over m edium heat, stirring often, for

sauté for 30 seconds. Add the beans and salt

be a n s a nd a re com m only u se d in Asia n

5 m inutes, set aside. Cook 1 lb ( 5 0 0 g) long

to taste, toss to coat, and cook until heated

co oking. The y typica lly g row in subtropica l

beans, cut into 3 -inch ( 7 .5 -cm ) lengths, in

through. Stir in the toasted sesam e seeds.

clim a te s such a s Sou the a st Asia , Tha ila nd, a nd

a large saucepan of salted boiling water until

Rem ove from the heat and add 1 tsp

sou the rn China , bu t the y ca n now be found

tender, about 5 m inutes. Drain, rinse with cold

Asian sesam e oil and 1 ⁄3 cup ( 1 ⁄2 oz/ 1 5 g)

throughou t the world during la te sum m e r a nd

running water, and pat dry. Heat 11⁄2 Tbsp peanut

chopped fresh cilantro ( fresh coriander) .

e a rly fa ll. Cho o se ligh t g re e n be a n s tha t a re

oil in a large frying pan over m edium -high heat.

Makes 4 servings.

fle xible bu t no t lim p or dry lo oking.

Add 2 Tbsp peeled and m inced ginger, 1 m inced

TEMPURA STRING BEANS WITH AIOLI

MIXED GARDEN BEAN SALAD WITH SHALLOTS

Mixed Garden Bean Salad with Shallots

Warm Beans with Lemon Vinaigrette

Sautéed Wax Beans with Tapenade

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

⁄2 lb (250 g) fresh shelling beans such as fava (broad) beans, shelled

2 ⁄2 lb (1.25 kg) green beans

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) w ax beans

31 1

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) fresh lem on juice

2 shallots, m inced

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) canola oil

1 tsp grated lem on zest

2 Tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, m inced

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp m inced lem on zest

1

1 tsp grated lem on zest




Tapenade (page 262) Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 plum (Rom a) tom atoes, cored, seeded, and cut into sm all dice

1 tsp ground coriander, toasted

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until tender, 5 –7 m inutes. Drain and then plunge into a bow l of ice water. Drain and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a frying pan over m edium heat, heat

Add the beans and boil until tender, about

the olive oil. Add the shallot and sauté until

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to

4 m inutes. Drain the beans and plunge into

softened, about 2 m inutes. Raise the heat

a boil. Add the shelling beans and boil until

a bow l of ice w ater. When cool, rem ove

to m edium -high, add the green beans, and

tender, 2–3 m inutes. Rem ove w ith a slotted

from the ice water and set aside.

sauté just until the beans begin to brow n,

spoon, plunge into a bow l of ice w ater,

In a sm all bow l, w hisk together the lem on

about 2 m inutes. Stir in the lem on zest and

Salt and freshly ground pepper

then drain. Repeat w ith the wax beans and

juice, ⁄4 tsp salt, and ⁄4 tsp pepper. Whisk

cook until fragrant, 20 – 6 0 seconds m ore.

haricots verts, cooking the wax beans for

in the olive oil until blended. Stir in the

Rem ove from the heat, stir in the tapenade,

7– 8 m inutes and the haricots verts about

lem on zest.

and season w ith salt and pepper. Transfer

1

1

to a serving dish and serve right away.

5 m inutes until tender. Drain and set aside. Just before serving, in a large frying pan In a sm all bow l, w hisk together the lem on

over m edium heat, m elt the butter. Add the

juice, vinegar, and shallots. Drizzle in the

shallot and tom atoes and cook, stirring, until

canola oil and w hisk continuously. Stir in the

softened, about 3 m inutes. Add the beans

lem on zest and coriander, and season w ith

and cook just until heated through.

salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a platter and drizzle w ith the Com bine all the beans in a large bow l. Add

vinaigrette. Serve right away.

the vinaigrette and toss. Let stand for at least 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 3 hours. Serve at room tem perature or chilled.

ROMANO BEANS

ROMANO BEANS WITH BACON BREAD CRUMBS

Also re ferre d to a s Italian-style gre en beans, rom ano be ans are a varie ty o f broad gre en

Add 1 lb ( 5 0 0 g) trim m ed rom ano beans to a

chopped, and 1 1 ⁄2 Tbsp chopped fresh thym e until

be a n s with fla t e dible po d s. The y ca n be

large saucepan of salted boiling water and cook

fragrant, about 1 m inute. Add 1 ⁄4 cup ( 1 oz/ 30 g)

co oke d in the sa m e ways a s g re e n be a n s.

until alm ost tender, about 5 m inutes (the am ount

dried bread crum bs and cook, stirring, until crisp

Lo ok for rom a no be a n s a t the fa rm e rs’

of tim e will depend upon the thickness of the

and browned, about 3 m inutes longer. Add the

m a rke t during the sum m e r m on th s.

beans) . Drain the beans and rinse under cold

beans and stir until coated with the crum bs and

running water. Pat dry with paper towels. In a

heated through. Stir in 2 slices cooked and crum bled

large frying pan over m edium heat, warm 1 ⁄4 cup

bacon. Transfer to a serving dish and serve warm

( 2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l) olive oil. Sauté 1 clove garlic,

or at room tem perature. Makes 6 servings.

W AX BEAN S

3

1 ⁄2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

PEAS

2 Tbsp w hite w ine vinegar

1

BEAN S

1 lb (500 g) each w ax beans, trim m ed and cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) lengths, and haricots verts

1

BUYING ENGLISH PEAS Pods should be bright green and feel heavy. Each 1 pound (50 0 g) of whole pods yields about 1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) of shelled peas so pay attention to the desired m easurem ent in your recipe. Their sugars convert quickly to starch, so English peas are best eaten the day they are purchased. If needed, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

English Peas One o f the swe e te st a nd m ost delica te m e m be rs o f the le gum e bo ta nical group, English pe a s—som e tim e s calle d ga rde n pe a s or pod pe a s—ha ve a fre sh, slightly gra ssy fla vor tha t is the e sse nce o f spring. Unlike their crunchy cousins, suga r sna p pe a s a nd snow pe a s (m angetouts ), English pe a s ha ve a tough, ine dible pod a nd m ust be shelle d be fore use. Ha rve ste d young, the tiny pe a s ca n be sm alle r tha n pe a rls; the se m inia ture ge m s a re o fte n calle d by their Fre nch na m e, petits pois. So -calle d e arly or June pe a s are la rge r (up to the size o f a finge rtip ) a nd ha ve m ore sta rch. English pe a s a re wonde rful puré e d a nd m a de into a cre a m y soup or spre a d. They a dd bright points o f color a nd fla vor to pila fs, riso tto, frie d rice, pa sta, a nd soups. Ste a m e d a nd sprinkle d with fre sh m int or pa rsley, they m ake a wonde rful side dish.

WORKING WITH ENGLISH PEAS Shell peas right before cooking them in order to keep them from drying out. Once shelled, peas can be briefly cooked in 1

⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) of sim m ering water for 3 to 4 m inutes. They w ill

quickly turn soggy and lose their vibrant color, so it is im portant not to overcook them .

BUYING SNOW

SUGAR SNAP PEAS

Choose snow peas ( mangetouts) that are light green and crisp and sugar snap peas that are a darker shade of green; avoid larger, thick-skinned pods. Both varieties should feel crisp and snap w hen broken. The peas can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If they begin to w ilt, im m erse them in cold water for 10 to 15 m inutes to recrisp them .

Snow Sugar Snap Peas Fla t, crisp snow pe a s a nd plum p, shiny suga r sna p pe a s a re bo th e a te n whole. The form e r a re also calle d

m angetouts, a na m e de rive d from the Fre nch for “e a t it all.” Snow pea s originate d in Asia more than 10,0 0 0 years ago. Snap peas, of more re ce nt origin, we re de velope d a s a cross be twe e n snow pe a s a nd a strain o f shell pe a s. Bo th a re 2 to 3 inche s (5 to 7.5 cm ) long a nd ha ve a swe e t fla vor a nd a n a ppe aling, crunchy te xture. Snow pe a s a nd suga r sna p pe a s a re a t their be st fla vor whe n the we a the r is still cool. The swe e te st a nd crispe st one s will com e to m a rke t during the e a rly spring but a re o fte n a vaila ble through m id-sum m e r. Stir-fry the m with o the r thinly cut ve ge ta ble s, or se rve the m raw with fla vorful dips or dre ssings.

WORKING WITH SNOW

SUGAR SNAP PEAS

Older hybrids of snow and sugar snap peas m ay have tough strings along the sides of the pods, though m ost m odern varieties are free of them . To rem ove any strings, break off the tip of each pea and pull it along the length of the pod. Both pea varieties should be cooked for as briefly as possible to retain their sweet flavor.

Pea Soup with Crème Fraîche & Chives

English Pea & Ricotta Tart

English Peas with Prosciutto

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

3 cups (24 fl oz/ 750 ml) chicken broth

8-by-10-inch (20-by-25-cm) rectangle of frozen puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator

Salt and freshly ground pepper

engl ish peas

beans & peas

34 2 lb (1 kg) English peas, shelled Salt and ground white pepper 4 Tbsp crème fraîche 2 Tbsp minced fresh chives In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the chicken broth, peas, 1 tsp salt, and 1⁄2 tsp pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the peas are soft, 10–20 minutes. (The amount of time will depend upon the size and maturity of the peas.) Transfer to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Return the purée to the saucepan, place over medium heat, and heat through. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Add 1 Tbsp of the crème fraîche to each serving and garnish with the chives. Serve right away.

11⁄3 cups (6 1⁄2 oz/ 200 g) shelled English peas

11⁄2 Tbsp olive oil 2 slices prosciutto, cut into strips 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) wide

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) fresh whole-milk ricotta, drained

3 cups (15 oz/ 470 g) shelled English peas

3 Tbsp finely chopped fresh mint, plus small whole leaves for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

1 tsp minced lemon zest Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 ⁄4 cup ( 1⁄4 oz/ 7 g) fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves

2 green (spring) onions, trimmed and very thinly sliced on the diagonal Fresh lemon juice Pea shoots for garnish, optional Preheat the oven to 400˚F (200˚C). Place the puff pastry on a baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper and bake until puffed, 10–13 minutes. Remove from the oven and top with a sheet of parchment paper and another baking sheet, and bake until golden and crisp, 10–13 minutes. Remove the top baking sheet and parchment paper and let cool. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the peas and cook until tender, 2–3 minutes. Drain and rinse briefly under cold running water. Reserve 1⁄3 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 15 g) of the peas and set aside. In a food processor, process the remaining peas, the ricotta, and 1 Tbsp of the chopped mint to make a chunky purée. Stir in the lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the parsley, the remaining 2 Tbsp mint, the green onions, and the reserved peas. Season with salt and lemon juice. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the pastry and top with the parsley mixture. Garnish with whole mint leaves and pea shoots, if desired. Cut into pieces and serve right away.

Meanwhile, in a large frying pan over low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the prosciutto and cook slowly, stirring often, until just heated through and slightly darker in color, 2–3 minutes. Set aside. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until just tender, about 1 minute. Drain immediately in a fine-mesh sieve and add to the pan with the prosciutto. Raise the heat to medium and toss gently. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve right away.

ENGLISH PEA

RICOTTA TART

CHICKEN

SUGAR SNAP PEA STIR-FRY

Sugar Snap Pea Risotto

Chicken & Sugar Snap Pea Stir-fry

Snow Pea & Mint Salad

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

1 lb (500 g) skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut crossw ise into thin strips

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) snow peas

37 3 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 sm all yellow onion, finely diced

5 cups (40 fl oz/ 1.25 l) chicken broth

1 tsp finely grated lem on zest 1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) dry w hite w ine

Salt 1 Tbsp oyster sauce

⁄4 lb (375 g) sugar snap peas, halved crossw ise on the diagonal

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil



Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 ⁄4 cup ( 1⁄4 oz/ 7 g) fresh m int leaves, cut into thin strips

3

Cooked White Rice (page 262) for serving Soy sauce for serving

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the snow peas and sim m er until alm ost tender, 11 ⁄2 –2 m inutes. Drain and transfer



to a bow l filled w ith ice water. Let stand for 5 m inutes, then drain and set aside.

In a bow l, toss the chicken strips w ith 11 ⁄2 Tbsp of the peanut oil, the baking soda,

In a sm all bow l, w hisk together the vinegar,

M elt 2 Tbsp of the butter in a large, heavy

and the cornstarch. Cover and let m arinate

shallot, and olive oil until blended to m ake

pot over m edium heat. Add the onion and

in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Rem ove from

a vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.

a pinch of salt and sauté until the onion

the refrigerator 15 m inutes before cooking.

To serve, place the peas and m int in a

Heat a wok or large frying pan over high

serving bow l and toss w ith the dressing.

heat. Add the rem aining 2 Tbsp oil. When

Serve right away.

is soft, about 8 m inutes. M eanw hile, in a saucepan, bring the broth and 1 tsp salt to a sim m er over low heat.

it is hot, add the chicken, spreading it out as Stir the rice into the onions until translucent,

m uch as possible. Season w ith salt and sear

about 3 m inutes. Add the lem on zest and

for 1 m inute w ithout stirring, then stir until

w ine and cook, stirring, until the w ine is

opaque throughout, 2 –3 m inutes. Stir in

absorbed. Add 3 ⁄4 cup ( 6 fl oz/ 185 m l) of

the oyster sauce and cook for 30 seconds.

the broth and sim m er, stirring frequently, until

Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

the liquid is alm ost absorbed. Add another portion of the broth. Continue sim m ering, stirring and adding broth until the liquid is alm ost all absorbed, about 15 m inutes. Do not let the rice dry out. Add the snap peas and continue to cook until the rice is

Return the w ok to high heat, add the peas, and stir-fry until tender-crisp, about 1 m inute. Stir in the chicken and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Transfer to a platter and serve right away w ith rice and soy sauce.

tender but still lightly firm to the bite, about 10 m inutes longer. Turn off the heat, stir in the rem aining 1 Tbsp butter and the 1 ⁄3 cup cheese, and let stand for 2 m inutes. Season w ith salt. Divide am ong shallow bow ls, sprinkle w ith cheese, and serve.

PEA SHOOTS

SAUTÉED PEA SHOOTS WITH CRABMEAT

Pe a shoo ts are the delica te le ave s and tendrils

Cut 1 lb ( 5 0 0 g) pea shoots into 2 -inch ( 5 -cm )

th a t g ro w fro m th e vin e s o f th e pe a pla n t.

lengths. Melt 2 Tbsp butter with 1 Tbsp olive oil

Te n d e r a n d swe e t, th e y a re d e licio u s wh e n

in a frying pan over m edium -high heat. Sauté

e a te n ra w or sa u té e d, a nd the y a lso m a ke

2 cloves m inced garlic and half of the pea shoots,

a n a ttra ctive ga rnish. Lo ok for the m a t the

raise the heat to high, and add the rem aining

farm ers’ m arke t in the spring and early sum m er.

shoots as the first batch wilts. Add 1 ⁄2 lb ( 250 g) lum p crabm eat, another 1 Tbsp butter, and season with salt. Sauté, stirring, until the crab is heated through, about 2 m inutes. Makes 4 servings.

SU GAR SN AP PEAS

⁄3 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) freshly grated hard cheese, such as Parm esan, plus extra for sprinkling

1

2 tsp cornstarch (cornflour)

1 sm all shallot, m inced

SN O W

10 oz (330 g) sugar snap peas, halved crossw ise

1 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)

1 Tbsp Cham pagne vinegar

PEAS

11⁄2 cups (10 1⁄2 oz/ 330 g) short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano

3 1⁄2 Tbsp peanut oil

BEAN S

Salt

1

Cabbages Other Crucifers BROCCOLI

From the large st cabbage s to the sm alle st Brussels sprouts, cruciferous ve ge table s are known for their bold flavor. Som e

GAI LAN CAULIFLOW ER

food historians belie ve tha t the m odern cabbage and their kin are derive d from rela te d plants tha t grew wild centurie s ago in the Me diterranean and elsewhere in Europe. Other re searchers

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

have trace d cabbage -like ve ge table s back to ancient Eg ypt. Cabbage s take the form of com pact heads with sm ooth or

BROCCOLI RABE GREEN CABBAGE

crinkly leave s tha t grow around a central core. Brussels sprouts, re sem bling tiny cabbage s, have very tightly close d heads. The heads are often rem ove d from their substantial stalks be fore

RED CABBAGE

being brought to m arke t, though you can som e tim e s find them still a ttache d to the long, thick stalks. Broccoli and cauliflower, also part of the cabbage fam ily, closely re sem ble one another, both having clusters of flore ts, gre en or white, re spe ctively, tha t grow on thick stalks. Cabbage s and their rela tive s are cool-wea ther crops, and though they can be found in m any m arke ts year round, they are a t their be st in autum n and winter.

BUYING BROCCOLI Heads should have tightly clustered florets that are dark green or purplish with no signs of yellowing. Stalks should be firm , look fresh, and have healthy green leaves. Avoid any broccoli w ith dried, tough stem s that are m ore white than green. Broccoli will keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Broccoli Bro ccoli is o ne o f the m a ny m e m be rs o f the la rge a nd dive rse Bra ssica g roup, which a lso includ e s m u sta rd, ca bba ge, cauliflowe r, Brussels sprouts, a nd bok choy. Though rela tively re cent in its popularity, carrie d by Italian im m ig ra n ts to Engla nd a nd the n North Am e rica in the eighte e nth ce ntury, its cluste rs o f vivid gre e n flore ts a re now one o f the m ost re cogniza ble o f ve ge ta ble s. Re a dily a vaila ble all ye a r long, broccoli is a t its be st from autum n through e a rly spring, whe n the coole r we a the r a llows its swe e t, nu tty fla vors to de ve lo p. Its ve rsa tility a nd e a se o f cooking m ake it popula r for a wide ra nge o f dishe s. Broccoli ca n be e a te n raw with dips, tosse d into salads, roa ste d and toppe d with che e se, stirre d into pa sta, puré e d into soup, a nd sauté e d, ste a m e d, or stir-frie d until te nde r-crisp.

WORKING WITH BROCCOLI Trim the leaves on the broccoli stalk only if they appear discolored. Peel or trim aw ay any tough portions on the bottom of the stalks. Cut across the forked branchlets to obtain bite-sized florets, then cut the broccoli stalks into m anageable spears. As the florets cook m ore quickly than the stalks, add them to the cooking vessel 2 to 3 m inutes after the stalks.

BUYING CAULIFLOWER Look for firm , tightly dom ed heads w ith evenly colored ivory or cream florets that are free of any brow n spots. If any leaves rem ain, they should be green and fresh. Avoid cauliflower w ith loosely packed or spreading florets. Cauliflower w ill keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Cauliflower Ca uliflowe r’s co m pa ct, cre a m y white flore ts re se m ble bro ccoli, to which it is clo se ly re la te d. The he a d s a re so m e tim e s sold a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts with the ir tigh tly e nclo sing , e dible inne r le a ve s, which ta ste sim ila r to colla rd g re e n s. Spe cia l va rie tie s d e rive d fro m old e r pla n ts bo a st ye llow, purple , or brown flore ts, a nd the po pula r Ro m a ne sco ca uliflowe r fro m Ita ly ha s poin te d flore ts a rra nge d in a striking ge o m e tric pa tte rn. Pe a k se a so n is during la te sum m e r a nd a u tum n, ca uliflowe r ca n a lso thrive during the e a rly win te r. It ha s a m ild, nu tty fla vor tha t m a rrie s nice ly with che e se a nd with o the r ve ge ta ble s such a s g re e n be a n s a nd ca rro ts. It ca n a lso be co o ke d a nd puré e d to m a ke a n e xce lle n t cre a m y soup, or slow-ro a ste d with ba co n. The flore ts a re a lso id e a l ra w or ligh tly bla nche d for ve ge ta ble pla tte rs a nd a va rie ty o f sa la d s.

WORKING WITH CAULIFLOWER The easiest way to separate cauliflower into florets is to use the tip of a sharp paring knife to cut from the V of the thicker branches dow n to the m ain stem , and then continue separating these sm aller bunches into bite-size pieces. If boiling cauliflower, add a few drops of lem on juice to the cooking water to help cauliflower retain its w hite color.

Roasted Broccoli with Red Pepper Flakes

Broccoli & Cheddar Soup

Beef, Broccoli & Crisp Garlic Sauté

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

2 cups (4 oz/ 125 g) sm all broccoli florets

11⁄2 lb (750 g) broccoli, tough stem s peeled

1 lb (500 g) flank or skirt steak

42

O TH ER CRU CIFERS

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 Tbsp cornstarch (cornflour)

2 Tbsp red pepper flakes

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

1

⁄4 tsp each salt and sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

1

⁄8 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

5 cups (40 fl oz/ 1.25 l) chicken broth, heated Preheat the oven to 25 0 °F (120 °C) . Place the broccoli florets in a sm all baking dish and drizzle evenly w ith the olive oil. Sprinkle w ith the red pepper flakes, 1 tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper. Roast until tender,

1

⁄2 tsp dried thym e

2 Tbsp canola oil 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

⁄4 tsp red pepper flakes

1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

1

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) w hole m ilk

2 cups (8 oz/ 125 g) sm all broccoli florets

1

⁄2 lb (250 g) sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded

3 Tbsp dry w hite w ine

20 –25 m inutes. Serve right away.

Salt and ground w hite pepper

2 Tbsp soy sauce Cooked White Rice (page 262) for serving

Coarsely chop the broccoli. In a large

BRO CCO LI

CABBAGES

c

saucepan, m elt the butter over m edium

Cut the beef across the grain into strips

heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft,

3 inches ( 7.5 cm ) long and 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m )

about 8 m inutes. Sprinkle in the flour and

thick. In a bow l, stir together the cornstarch,

sauté for 1 m inute longer. Add the broth,

salt, sugar, baking soda, and 2 Tbsp water.

broccoli, thym e, and lem on juice and bring

Add the beef and stir until well m ixed. Let

to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and

stand at room tem perature for 30 m inutes.

sim m er until the broccoli is tender, about 20 m inutes. Working in sm all batches, purée the soup in a blender or food processor. Return the purée to the pan, stir in the m ilk, and bring to a sim m er over low heat. Sprinkle half of the cheese into the soup; stir over low heat until m elted. Season w ith salt and w hite pepper. Ladle the soup into bow ls and top w ith the rem aining cheese. Serve right away.

In a frying pan over high heat, add the canola oil. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until crisp, about 1 m inute. Transfer to paper towels. Add the beef, broccoli, and 2 Tbsp of the w ine to the pan and cook until the beef is opaque and the broccoli is tender, about 5 m inutes. Add the soy sauce and the rem aining w ine and stir for 1 m inute. Transfer to w arm ed plates and accom pany w ith steam ed rice.

GAI LAN

STIR-FRIED GAI LAN WITH GINGER

Also known a s Chine se bro ccoli, gai lan ha s

Heat 2 Tbsp peanut oil in a large wok or frying

gai lan stem s are tender-crisp, about

a bro ccoli-like sta lk, bu t it is toppe d with thick,

pan over high heat. Add 2 thinly sliced garlic

3 m inutes. If the wok or pan dries out, add

fla t g re e n le a ve s in ste a d o f flore ts. It a ppe a rs

cloves, 1 ⁄2 tsp m inced fresh ginger, and a pinch

a splash of water. Rem ove from the heat,

a t the m a rke t from sum m e r to a u tum n. Its

of red pepper flakes and stir-fry for about

add 1 ⁄2 tsp sugar, and toss well. Transfer the

le a ve s, ste m s, a nd flowe rs ca n a ll be e a te n,

1 5 seconds. Add 1 1 ⁄2 lb ( 7 5 0 g) gai lan, cut

contents of the wok to a platter, pour any

a nd this ve rsa tile ve ge ta ble ca n be pre pa re d

into pieces 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) long, and toss to

cooking liquid over the top, and drizzle with

in a va rie ty o f ways, such a s stir-frie d, a dde d

coat with the oil. Add 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l)

1 tsp Asian sesam e oil. Makes 4 servings.

to soups, or sha ve d a nd se rve d ra w in sa la d s.

water and 1 1 ⁄2 Tbsp soy sauce, cover, and cook until the water has alm ost evaporated and the

BEEF, BROCCOLI

CRISP GARLIC SAUTÉ

GOLDEN CAULIFLOWER GRATIN WITH CAPERS

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

Golden Cauliflower Gratin with Capers

Pasta with Cauliflower, Anchovies & Pine Nuts

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

45 4 tsp unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing

2 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 medium head cauliflower

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 1⁄2 Tbsp all-purpose (plain) flour

1 small head cauliflower, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) florets

11⁄2 lb (750 g) cauliflower, cored, separated into florets, and cut into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thick

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 ml) whole milk Salt and freshly ground pepper 1

Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender or food processor until smooth. Return to the pot and heat through over low heat. Thin the soup with water, if necessary, and season with salt. Ladle into serving bowls, drizzle with the olive oil, and season with pepper. Serve right away.

1 Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained 1 tsp red pepper flakes

2 salt-packed anchovy fillets, mashed 1 large clove garlic, minced 1

⁄2 tsp red pepper flakes

1 lb (500 g) gemelli or other curly pasta 3 Tbsp pine nuts, toasted (page 264)

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter a medium-sized baking dish. In a covered steamer over boiling water, cook the whole cauliflower head until almost tender, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool. Cut into 8 wedges and arrange in the baking dish. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt 3 tsp of the butter. When it foams, remove it from the heat and whisk in the flour. Return to medium heat and slowly whisk in the milk. Reduce the heat to low, add 1 tsp salt and 1⁄2 tsp pepper, and cook, whisking occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and smooth, about 15 minutes. In a small frying pan over medium heat, melt the remaining 1 tsp butter. When it foams, add the bread crumbs and cook, stirring often, until golden, 3–4 minutes. Stir the capers and red pepper flakes into the sauce and pour over the cauliflower. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden, about 30 minutes. Serve right away.

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) grated aged hard cheese, such as Parmesan 1

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add 1 Tbsp of the olive oil and, when hot, add the cauliflower florets and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until golden brown and just tender when pierced with a knife, 6–8 minutes. Remove the cauliflower from the pan. Add the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil and reduce the heat to medium. Stir in the anchovies, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Return the cauliflower to the pan, stir well to combine, and remove from the heat. Add the pasta to the boiling water. Cook until al dente, 8–10 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the cauliflower and stir to combine. Add the pine nuts and, if needed, some of the pasta water to moisten the dish. Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle the cheese on top and serve right away.

caul if l ower

In a pot over medium-low heat, warm the 3 Tbsp olive oil. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and sauté until tender, about 12 minutes. Add the cauliflower, another pinch of salt, and 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) water. Cover and simmer until the cauliflower is tender when pierced with a fork, about 10 minutes. Uncover, add another 4 cups (32 fl oz/ 1 l) water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and continue to cook for another 20 minutes. Let cool slightly.

⁄3 cup ( 2⁄3 oz/ 20 g) fresh bread crumbs

Salt and freshly ground pepper

cabbages & ot her cr ucif er s

3 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

BUYING BRUSSELS SPROUTS Brussels sprouts should have bright green leaves that cling tightly to firm , com pact heads. Som e vendors m ay sell them still attached to thick green stalks. Avoid any w ith w ilted or yellowed leaves. Check that the stem ends are pale and m oist, indicating freshness. Brussels sprouts can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Brussels Sprouts Re se m bling m inia ture gre e n ca bba ge s, Brussels sprouts a re sm all buds tha t grow along the thick, long stalks o f a la rge pla nt de sce nde d from wild ca bba ge. They a re na m e d for the ca pital o f Belgium , whe re they we re first widely cultiva te d, a nd quickly spre a d throughout Europe a nd North Am e rica . Bru sse ls sprou ts, ge ne ra lly sold loose or packe d into sm all ba ske ts, occa sionally a ppe a r a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts still on their stalks. Brussels sprouts grow be st in cool coa stal re gions a nd re ach their pe ak from autum n through m id-winte r. They ca n be pre pa re d in m uch the sa m e way a s broccoli a nd cauliflowe r, taking well to boiling, braising, ste a m ing, and roa sting. Thinly slice the heads or break off individual le a ve s to sauté or se rve fre sh a s a sala d or slaw.

WORKING WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS Rinse and dry the heads. Snap away any dam aged or brow ned leaves from the outside and trim away the stem ends. Cut a shallow X in the stem end w ith the tip of a paring knife before cooking so that densely packed heads w ill cook evenly. Larger heads can be halved or quartered to shorten the cooking tim e.

BUYING BROCCOLI RABE Choose broccoli rabe w ith bright green florets and leaves and yellow flowers that are just beginning to open. Avoid if the florets are w ilted, brow ned or fully bloom ed. The stalks should be firm and can be slightly flexible. Store broccoli rabe in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Broccoli Rabe Also ca lle d bro ccoli ra a b, ra pini, or Ita lia n bro ccoli, bro ccoli ra be is a re la tive ne wco m e r to the ve ge ta ble se ctio n o f the m a rke t. It is m uch love d for its lo ng , sle nde r stalks; a bunda nt, te nde r, frille d le a ve s; a nd distinctive flowe r buds tha t re se m ble sm all flore ts o f broccoli. Closely rela te d to m usta rd, broccoli ra be ha s a m ild, ple a sa ntly bitte r ta ste with ove rtone s o f swe e t m usta rd. Va rie tie s grown in the Unite d Sta te s a nd Italy te nd to be le ss punge n t tha n th o se e njoye d in China a nd sold a t fa rm e rs’ m arke ts se rving Asia n com m unitie s. At its be st in autum n a nd winte r, broccoli ra be is popula r in Italia n cooking, whe re it m ay be sauté e d in olive oil a nd ga rlic a s a n accom pa nim e nt to m e a t or a s the ba sis of a pasta sauce. Similarly, in Asia, it is a favorite vege table for stir-frying with ga rlic or ginge r. It is e xcelle nt cooke d a nd chille d in sala ds or use d to top pizza s or brusche tta .

WORKING WITH BROCCOLI RABE Trim away the ends of the stem s and any w ilted leaves. If any of the stem s are particularly thick or tough, they can be peeled w ith a vegetable peeler. To reduce broccoli rabe’s bitterness, it can be steam ed, braised in a sm all am ount of water, or blanched (see page 26 4) before serving or cooking further.

Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts

Pasta with Brussels Sprouts, Shallots & Asiago

Brussels Sprout Leaves with Bacon

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

8 shallots, peeled

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) brussels sprouts

1 Tbsp olive oil

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 lb (500 g) linguine or tagliatelle pasta

1

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 lb (500 g) brussels sprouts, thinly sliced

11⁄2 lb (750 g) brussels sprouts

48 1

⁄2 lb (250 g) fresh chestnuts

cabbages & ot her cr ucif er s

Using a sharp knife, make a small incision across the flat side of each chestnut. Place in a saucepan, add water to cover, and place over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the nutmeat can be easily pierced with a knife, 45–55 minutes. Remove the chestnuts a few at a time from the hot water. Peel away and discard the hard shells and inner sheaths. Set the chestnuts aside.

br ussel s spr out s

1

Cut the brussels sprouts in half. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the brussels sprouts and simmer, uncovered, until tender, 6–8 minutes. Drain and return to the saucepan. Add the chestnuts and butter and place over medium heat until the butter melts and the chestnuts are hot, stirring often, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and serve hot. Brussels sprouts with chestnuts are delicious as a side dish alongside meat or poultry or tossed into a pasta such as fettuccine.

1

⁄2 tsp sugar

1 Tbsp sherry vinegar 3 ⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 ml) heavy (double) cream 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) grated Asiago cheese

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the shallots in a small baking dish and drizzle with the olive oil and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. Roast until tender, 35–40 minutes. When cool, cut the shallots into 1⁄2 -inch (12-mm) slices and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, 6–7 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) of the cooking water and drain the pasta. While the pasta is cooking, heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until lightly browned. Stir in the brussels sprouts with a pinch of salt and the sugar. Cook, stirring often, until the brussels sprouts begin to soften, 3–4 minutes. Add the vinegar and cook, stirring, until it reduces to a syrup, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the cream and shallots. Season with salt and pepper. Add the drained pasta to the brussels sprouts and stir to combine, adding some of the reserved pasta water if it seems dry. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle cheese over the top. Serve right away.

⁄2 tsp grainy mustard ⁄4 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp unsalted butter 6 slices bacon, cut into 1⁄4 -inch (6-mm) pieces and cooked until crisp In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and garlic. Whisking constantly, pour in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Remove the outer leaves from each brussels sprout and discard any that are blemished. Continue to separate the leaves of the brussels sprouts, using a small, sharp knife to cut away the core. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the brussels sprout leaves and 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) water, cover, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook the leaves until bright green and tender, about 7 minutes, adding more water if needed. Drain and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the bacon to the olive oil mixture. Drizzle over the brussels sprout leaves and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and serve right away.

BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES WITH BACON

SPICY BROCCOLI RABE BRUSCHETTA

Spicy Broccoli Rabe Bruschetta

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe

Italian Sausage with Broccoli Rabe

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) broccoli rabe

1

51 1

3 cloves garlic, chopped 1

8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1

⁄4 tsp red pepper flakes

11⁄2 lb (750 g) broccoli rabe, stem ends trimmed

⁄4 tsp red pepper flakes

2 lb (1 kg) broccoli rabe 4 hot or mild Italian sausages, each about 5 oz (155 g) 2 tsp olive oil, plus extra as needed 4 large cloves garlic, minced ⁄4 tsp red pepper flakes, or to taste

Salt

1 lb (500 g) orecchiette

1

12 slices baguette, each 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick

Salt

Salt

1 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) grated hard cheese, such as Pecorino

1

In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until the garlic is fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the broccoli rabe and boil until tender, 3–4 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain again and chop into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths.

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) ricotta cheese

Preheat the broiler (grill). Cut the broccoli rabe stems into ⁄4 -inch (6-mm) pieces and coarsely chop the leafy greens. Rinse and drain. 1

Brush the baguette slices with olive oil and broil (grill) until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Spread each slice with the cheese and top with the broccoli rabe. Drizzle with more olive oil and serve right away.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the broccoli rabe and cook until tender, 2–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the broccoli rabe to a bowl of ice water. Leave the pot of water over high heat. Drain the broccoli rabe and chop into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 12 minutes or according to the package directions. While the pasta is cooking, add the broccoli rabe to the frying pan with the garlic and season with salt. Sauté over medium heat until heated through, 3–5 minutes. Drain the pasta and return to the pot. Add the broccoli rabe mixture and toss well. Divide among bowls, top with the cheese, and serve right away.

Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C). Prick the sausages in several places. In a large frying pan over medium heat, sauté the sausages in the 2 tsp olive oil, turning once, until well browned and firm, about 20 minutes. Transfer to an ovenproof platter and keep warm in the oven. Pour off all but 3 Tbsp fat from the frying pan (add olive oil if needed). Return to medium-low heat and add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Sauté until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the broccoli rabe and season with salt. Sauté until heated through, about 3 minutes. Divide the sausages and broccoli rabe among individual plates, top with the cheese, and serve right away.

br occol i r abe

In a frying pan over medium heat, warm 3 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add as much broccoli rabe as will fit into the pan. Raise the heat to high and add the remaining broccoli rabe as the first batch wilts. Season with salt and cook until tender, 4–10 minutes. If the pan seems too dry, add a splash of water. Remove from the heat. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil and season with salt.

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parmesan

cabbages & ot her cr ucif er s

5 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) olive oil, plus extra for brushing and drizzling

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) olive oil

BUYING GREEN CABBAGE Heads of green cabbage should be firm and heavy w ith tightly furled sm ooth or crinkled leaves, depending on variety. Color is an indication of freshness: cabbages stored too long lose their pigm ent and w ill look alm ost w hite. To ensure freshness, check that the stem end has not cracked around the base.

Green Cabbage The m ost com m only available varie ty of cabbage ha s sm o o th, pa le g re e n le a ve s. Sa voy ca bba ge , which ha s crinkle d le a ve s, m ake s a pre tty a ddition to cole slaws a nd sala ds. Na pa ca bba ge, also calle d Chine se or cele ry ca bba ge, is elonga te d with wide, fla t, white ste m s a nd wrinkly, pale yellow-gre e n le a ve s. A ha rd y pla nt, ca bba ge is sold fre sh all ye a r long but is a t its be st during the coole r m onths o f autum n a nd e a rly winte r. Europe a ns a nd Asia ns de pe nde d on pickle d ca bba ge for nu trie n ts during lo ng win te rs, sa ue rkra u t a nd kim chi be ing the two m o st co m m o n re cipe s for pre se rving the ve ge ta ble. Whole le a ve s ca n be brie fly boile d or ste a m e d un til plia ble , stu ffe d with sa vory fillings such a s be e f, ba rley or rice, a nd the n rolle d a nd cooke d until tender. Cut cabbage is often adde d to soups, braise d until swe e t a nd te nde r, stirre d into fillings for dum plings, or tosse d with dre ssing to m ake cole slaw.

WORKING WITH GREEN CABBAGE Pull off and discard any w ilted outer leaves. Rem ove the core, either by cutting the head into halves or quarters and slicing the core from the center, or by cutting out a cone at the base of the core. If you’re shredding or slicing cabbage for salads, a m andoline or food processor fitted w ith the shredding disk m akes quick w ork of the task.

BUYING RED CABBAGE As w ith green cabbage, buy firm , heavy heads of red cabbage w ith tightly furled, sm ooth leaves and a vibrant purple color. Com pare sim ilarly sized heads and select the heaviest one. To ensure freshness, check that the stem end has not cracked around the base.

Red Cabbage Sim ila r in te xture a nd a ppe a ra nce to g re e n ca bba ge , re d ca bba ge d e ve lo ps its d e e p, re ddish -purple color from growing in acidic soil. With thicke r le a ve s tha t ha ve a faintly pe ppe ry ta ste, re d ca bba ge te nds to ke e p longe r tha n its gre e n cousin. Thriving in hum id clim a te s with well-fe rtilize d soil, re d ca bba ge is prim a rily a winte r crop. Like gre e n ca bba ge, re d ca bba ge ca n be use d raw or cooke d. Its swe e t-spicy fla vor a nd brillia nt color m ake it delicious in cole slaw. Slice d thinly, it ca n also a dd te xture to o the r gre e ns in fre sh sala ds. Holding up well to winte r’s he a rtie r dishe s, re d ca bba ge is e xcelle nt braise d alongside fish, pork, ga m e, or sausa ge.

WORKING WITH RED CABBAGE Red cabbage turns pale blue w hen heated. To retain its vibrant red color during cooking, add a sm all am ount of vinegar or lem on juice, or cook the vegetable w ith acidic ingredients such as apples or w ine. Work w ith red cabbage the sam e as you would w ith green cabbage: discard any w ilted outer leaves, cut out the core, and use as directed in the recipe.

Red & Green Buttermilk Coleslaw

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves with Sausage & Onion

Braised Cabbage with Apples

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 small head red cabbage (1 lb/ 500 g), quartered, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise

1 head savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 yellow onion, finely diced

11⁄2 lb (750 g) tart apples, such as Granny Smith, Sierra Beauty, or pink lady, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

gr een & r ed cabbage cabbages & ot her cr ucif er s

54

1 small head green cabbage (1 lb/ 500 g), quartered, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) buttermilk

1 tsp chopped fresh thyme Salt and freshly ground pepper 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sour cream

⁄2 lb (250 g) sausage, casings removed

⁄2 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 110 g) Cooked White Rice (page 262)

1 tsp chopped fresh thyme 1 bay leaf Salt

1

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley or fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)

1

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 tsp white wine vinegar, or extra to taste

1 ⁄4 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) plus 2 Tbsp grated aged hard cheese, such as Parmesan

In a large bowl, toss together the cabbages, onion, and 2 tsp salt.

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 ml) chicken broth, heated

In a bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, parsley, and vinegar. Pour over the cabbage, season with pepper, and toss well. Let stand for 15–30 minutes to let the flavors blend and the cabbage soften. Adjust the seasonings with salt and vinegar. Serve right away.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Remove the core from the cabbage, cut the heart into small pieces, and set aside. Put the whole leaves in the pot and boil for 1 minute, then place under cold running water and dry. Return the water to a boil, add the chopped leaves, and boil until tender, 2–3 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold running water, and drain again. In a large frying pan over medium-low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Sauté until the onion is tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the chopped cabbage, sausage, rice, egg, and 1 ⁄4 cup cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Without cutting through the cabbage leaves, pare down the thick rib on the outside surface to the thickness of the leaf. Spoon 1⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) of the stuffing into the base of each leaf. Working from the bottom, roll the leaf one turn, fold the sides in, and finish rolling. Place the stuffed leaves, seam side down, in a baking dish. Add hot broth and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes, top with the remaining 2 Tbsp cheese, and continue bake for 15 minutes more. Serve topped with broth.

1 head green or red cabbage (about 2 lb/ 1 kg), quartered, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) chicken broth, plus extra as needed

1

In a large frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, apples, thyme, and bay leaf and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden, about 6 minutes. Add the cabbage and the 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) chicken broth, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cover. Cook, stirring often, until the cabbage is tender, 15–20 minutes. If the pan starts to dry out, add a little broth. Serve right away or cover and keep warm in a low oven until ready to serve. Braised cabbage is a nice accompaniment to roasted meats such as pork chops.

BRAISED CABBAGE WITH APPLES

Leafy Greens DELICATE LETTUCES STURDY LETTUCES

Ma ny pla n ts ha ve e dible le a ve s, bu t le a fy g re e n s a re those pla n ts tha t a re prize d prim a rily for the ir le a ve s. This la rge g roup ra nge s from pla n ts with te nde r le a ve s tha t a re a lm ost swe e t, to sturd y g re e n s like a rug ula (ro cke t) tha t ha ve a pe ppe ry fla vor, to he a rty g re e n s tha t ha ve a ple a sa n t

ARUGULA SPINACH

bitte rne ss. Historica l e vide nce sug ge sts tha t le a fy g re e n s we re ga the re d in the wild a s long a go a s the tim e o f the a ncie n t Eg yptia n s, Gre e ks, a nd Rom a n s.

CHICORIES TREVISO RADICCHIO CHARD KALE

For co oking purpose s, it is u se ful to divide le a fy g re e n s in to four ca te gorie s. De lica te le ttuce s include bu tte r (Boston ) le ttuce , ro m a ine (co s) le ttuce , a nd m â che . Wa te rcre ss, ra dicchio, a nd frisé e, le a ve s with a m ore substa n tia l te xture, a re con side re d sturd y le ttuce s. Chicory is a g roup to which som e sturd y g re e n s, such a s ra dicchio, a lso be long. Ra dicchio a nd Be lgia n e ndive (chicory/witlo o f) g row a s tigh tly pa cke d he a d s; o the r chicorie s form lo ose he a d s like le ttuce. Robu st ka le, cha rd, a nd spina ch a re com m only ca lle d da rk g re e n s. Da rk g re e n s, though o fte n co oke d whe n m a ture, m ay be ha rve ste d young for u se in sa la d s. Leafy greens have a constant presence at the farm ers’ marke t, a s different type s prolifera te throughout the year.

BUYING DELICATE LETTUCES Choose heads of lettuce that are heavy for their size. Avoid any w ith w ilted, torn, or brow ned leaves. Store loose greens unwashed in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Rinse the leaves just before serving and, if needed, let soak 10 m inutes in cold water to refresh and crisp them .

Delicate Le ttuces Grown all ove r the world, the m ost delica te gre e ns te nd to ha ve a swe e t fla vor a nd te nde r te xture. From re d-tinte d, de e ply lobe d oakle a f to oval-sha pe d m âche, Japane se tatsoi to cla ssic Bibb and butter (Boston ) le ttuce, the re a re m a ny choice s a t local m a rke ts. Mesclun , which is a Prove nça l word for “m ix,” is tra ditio na lly a sa la d co n sisting o f the first g re e n s a nd he rbs o f spring. The m ixe s va ry, but usually include a wide ra nge o f colors a nd te xture s. Som e fa rm e rs also o ffe r the tiny le a ve s o f young pla nts, calle d ba by gre e ns, which a re picke d whe n only a fe w inche s long. Spring a nd autum n a re the be st tim e s to look for young gre e ns a t the fa rm e rs’ m a rke t. Expe rim e nt with diffe re nt colors, te xture s, a nd fla vors to m ake a sala d tha t suits your palate. Le ss is m ore when showca sing swe e t delicate le ttuce s. Milde r gre e ns sta r in sim ple sala ds with only a fe w ingre die nts a nd le ss acidic vinaigre tte s.

WORKING WITH DELICATE LETTUCES Wash greens by im m ersing them in a large bow l filled w ith cold water. To avoid diluting their flavor and to allow dressings to coat the leaves w ell, dry lettuces w ell in a salad spinner or shake them gently in a clean kitchen towel. Tear large leaves individually instead of cutting the heads to avoid discoloring or crushing their leaves, and dress them lightly just before serving.

BUYING STURDY LETTUCES Choose heads or loose leaves or sturdy lettuces w ith pert, fresh-looking leaves free of w ilting or brow ning. For less bitterness, avoid any w ith large, thick stem s ( m edium stem s can be rem oved) . Sturdy greens can be stored unwashed in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

Sturdy Le ttuces Ofte n da rke r in color, thicke r in te xture, a nd stronge r in fla vor tha n delica te gre e ns, sturd y le ttuce s such a s watercre ss, frisé e (or curly endive ), chicory, and dandelion gre ens have be com e increa singly popular in re cent years. Ma ny sturd y le ttuce s a re a lso co n sid e re d chicorie s (se e pa ge 70 ). The sha pe s a nd fla vors o f sturd y le ttuce s a re dive rse , fro m re fre shingly pe ppe ry, coin -sha pe d wa te rcre ss to frilly, sligh tly bitte r frisé e to punge n t, long, ja gge d da ndelion le a ve s. Though sturd y le ttuce s a re a vaila ble throughout the ye a r in m a ny a re a s, they ha ve their be st fla vor a t local m a rke ts during the winte r m onths. Their le a ve s sta nd up to strong fla vors such a s bacon, olive s, a nd a nchovie s in sala ds, pa sta sauce s, a nd side dishe s. They a re e xcelle nt sauté e d brie fly until wilte d or stirre d into soups during the la st fe w m inute s o f sim m e ring.

WORKING WITH STURDY LETTUCES Wash sturdy lettuces just before using: im m erse them in a large bowl filled with cold water and then lift them out, letting dirt and grit settle to the bottom . Repeat as necessary. Dry well in a salad spinner or by shaking the leaves gently in a kitchen towel. Rem ove any large roots, wilted or yellow leaves, and thick stalks.

Butter Lettuce with Mustard Vinaigrette

Romaine Hearts with Caesar Dressing

MAKES 4– 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 heads butter lettuce

3 Tbsp mayonnaise

1

⁄4 lb (125 g) fresh goat cheese

3 ⁄2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

5–6 anchovy fillets

1

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) fine dried bread crumbs

1 1⁄2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

1 large clove garlic, chopped

1

⁄2 tsp fresh thyme leaves

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1

60

del icat e l et t uces

l eaf y gr eens

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp chopped fresh chives 1 Tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 1 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley Separate the lettuce leaves. Tear the largest outer leaves in half, leaving the smaller leaves whole. Wash, rinse, and dry. In a large salad bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, and salt and pepper to taste to make a dressing. Add the lettuce, chives, tarragon, and parsley and toss well. Serve right away.

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 90 ml) plus 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice, plus extra if needed Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 cups (4 oz/ 125 g) bread cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-mm) cubes 11⁄2 lb (750 g) romaine (cos) lettuce hearts 1 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) shredded dry jack cheese Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). In a blender, combine the mayonnaise, anchovies, and garlic and blend until smooth. With the motor running, add the 1⁄3 cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream to make a thick dressing. Gradually blend in the 2 Tbsp lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and blend again to combine. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, toss the bread cubes with the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake until lightly browned and crisp, about 15 minutes. Tear the romaine leaves into bite-size pieces and place in a large salad bowl. Toss with enough of the dressing to coat the leaves lightly. Season with salt and pepper. Add the croutons and 2⁄3 cup (21⁄2 oz/ 75 g) of the cheese and toss again. Divide among salad plates. Top with the remaining cheese and serve right away.

Salt and freshly ground pepper ⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) plus 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 4 cups (4 oz/ 120 g) mixed delicate lettuce leaves such as oakleaf, mâche, and Bibb Divide the cheese into 4 equal portions. Shape each portion into a patty about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. In a bowl, mix together the bread crumbs, the thyme, and 1⁄2 tsp each salt and pepper. Pour onto a sheet of waxed paper. Working with one cheese patty at a time, press both sides into the bread crumb mixture. Set aside. In a large salad bowl, whisk together the ⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) olive oil, the vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.

1

Add the greens to the salad bowl and toss well. Divide among plates and set aside. In a frying pan over medium heat, warm the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil. Add the goat cheese patties and cook until lightly browned on the bottom, 1–2 minutes. Turn and continue to cook until the cheese begins to spread slightly, about 1 minute more. Place one patty on each plate of greens and serve right away.

BUTTER LETTUCE WITH MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

BITTER GREENS WITH PECANS

BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Watercress & Grapefruit Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Bitter Greens with Pecans & Balsamic Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

63 1 ⁄2 Tbsp fresh orange juice 1

1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp grated orange zest

1 1⁄2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄4 lb (375 g) thick-cut bacon, cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-mm) pieces

1 large ruby red grapefruit, segmented (page 264) with juice reserved

2 shallots, finely chopped

3

5 Tbsp (2 ⁄2 fl oz/ 75 ml) red wine vinegar 1

2 oz (60 g) fresh goat cheese, crumbled 3 Tbsp hazelnuts (filberts), toasted (page 264) and chopped In a bowl, whisk together the orange juice, olive oil, vinegar, orange zest and salt and pepper to taste. Add the grapefruit segments and juice to the dressing, turning the segments gently to coat. Place the watercress in a bowl and add enough of the vinaigrette to coat the leaves. Lift the grapefruit segments from the vinaigrette and add to the salad. Add the goat cheese and hazelnuts and toss gently, adding more vinaigrette if necessary. Divide the salad among individual plates and serve right away.

2 heads frisée, cored and leaves torn into 3-inch (7.5-cm) pieces Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spread the bread cubes on a baking sheet, sprinkle with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake, turning once or twice, until golden, about 15 minutes. Set aside. In a frying pan over medium-high heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 4–5 minutes. Add the shallots and sauté until softened, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until thickened, about 1 minute more. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm. In a large salad bowl, combine the croutons and frisée. Pour in the warm dressing with the bacon pieces and toss to coat. Divide the salad among individual bowls or plates and serve right away.

2 Tbsp olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper 5 cups (15 oz/ 470 g) mixed torn sturdy greens and chicories, such as watercress, radicchio, or escarole (Batavian endive) ⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) pecans, toasted (page 264)

1

1 oz (30 g) shaved hard cheese, such as Parmesan In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and olive oil. Whisk in salt and pepper to taste to make a vinaigrette. Place the greens in a large bowl, drizzle with some of the vinaigrette, and toss to lightly coat. Add the pecans and toss well, adding more vinaigrette if necessary to coat the leaves. Top the salad with the cheese and serve right away.

st ur dy l et t uces

2 cups (2 oz/ 60 g) stemmed watercress leaves

3 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

l eaf y gr eens

2 tsp red wine vinegar

1 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) coarse country bread cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes

BUYING ARUGULA Look for long, slender, young leaves w ith a vibrant green color and deeply notched or oval-shaped leaves. Whether loose-leaved or still bunched, avoid any w ith w et or bruised leaves. Wrap the stem s of bunched arugula ( rocket) in dam p paper towels. Store both leaves and bunches in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Arugula Also known a s rocke t, this ple a sa ntly pe ppe ry gre e n, grown along the Me dite rra ne a n since Rom a n tim e s, ha s re ce ntly grown in popula rity a round the world. The cha racte ristic sword-sha pe d, de e ply no tche d le a ve s a re usually no m ore tha n 2 to 3 inche s (5 to 7.5 cm ) long. So m e a rug ula va rie tie s bo a st le a ve s tha t a re ova l in sha pe, with fe we r no tche s. Fre sh a rugula ca n be found in the m a rke t in spring through autum n. Add a rugula to o the r, m ilde r gre e ns for a sala d with a nicely sha rp, spicy e dge. Arugula is ve ry popula r in Italy, whe re it is also use d in pa sta sauce s a nd to top pizza s ho t from the ove n. Arugula ca n also be stirre d into soups, folde d in po ta to sala ds, m a de into a fla vorful pe sto, or wilte d to se rve a s a be d for roa ste d or grille d m e a t, fish, a nd poultry.

WORKING WITH ARUGULA Handle arugula w ith care to avoid bruising its delicate leaves. Trim the thick stalk ends, if needed. Arugula bunches can trap soil and grit, so wash them well before serving. Im m erse the leaves in cold water and then lift them out, letting the grit settle at the bottom . Repeat as necessary. Dry thoroughly in a salad spinner or gently shake them in a kitchen towel.

BUYING SPINACH Select spinach w ith crisp and dark leaves free of bruises, tears, and any wetness. For fresh salads, look for sm aller tender leaves. For cooking, pick the larger and m ore flavorful leaves. If you are buying spinach in bunches, look for firm stem s w ith a blush of pink at their ends. Refrigerate the spinach unwashed in a plastic bag for 3 to 5 days.

Spinach Native to central and southwe stern Asia, spinach wa s first grown by Pe rsia ns a nd the n ca rrie d e a st to China a nd we st to the Me diterranean during the 7 th century. Since then, its dark gre en leave s and earthy, faintly bitter flavor have be com e popular on table s around the world. There are two m ain varie tie s available at m arke ts. Som e fall into the Sa voy ca te gory, also known a s curly le a f spinach for the ir thick, d e e ply crinkle d le a ve s. Othe rs ha ve sm o o th le a ve s tha t a re te nd e r a nd tra p le ss g rit, m a king the m popula r for sala ds. Sm all, im m a ture le a ve s with m ilde r, swe e te r fla vor a nd m ore delica te le a ve s, o fte n calle d baby spinach, also m ake an e xcellent salad gre en. Available year-round, spinach reache s its peak sea son in spring and autum n. Young spinach is ideal in fre sh salads and sandwiche s. More m ature spinach is e xcellent sauté e d or stir-frie d, m ade into creamy soups, or choppe d and cooke d with pa sta.

WORKING WITH SPINACH As spinach leaves often trap soil and grit, wash them well before use. Fill a large bow l w ith cold water, im m erse the leaves, and then lift them out, letting the grit settle at the bottom . Repeat w ith fresh water until com pletely free of grit. Spin dry in a salad spinner. Trim any roots and, if desired, rem ove the stem s for a m ore delicate texture.

Arugula, Goat Cheese & Walnut Salad

Spaghetti with Arugula-Mint Pesto

Swordfish with Arugula, Currants & Almonds

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

5 cups packed (5 oz/ 155 g) arugula (rocket)

11⁄2 Tbsp dried currants

ar ugul a l eaf y gr eens

66 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

⁄4 cup packed ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh mint leaves 3

1 tsp walnut oil Salt and freshly ground pepper ⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) walnuts, toasted (page 264) and coarsely chopped

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1

6 cups (6 oz/ 180 g) arugula (rocket) 1

⁄2 lb (125 g) fresh goat cheese, crumbled

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, walnut oil, and salt and pepper to taste to make a dressing. Set aside. Place the arugula in a serving bowl and add the chopped walnuts. Drizzle with enough of the dressing to lightly coat the leaves and toss well. Sprinkle with the cheese and serve right away.

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) shaved aged hard cheese such as Parmesan, plus extra for sprinking

4 swordfish steaks, each 5–6 oz (155–185 g) and 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick Salt and freshly ground pepper 5 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) olive oil

1

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped Pinch of red pepper flakes

2 cloves garlic

2 lb (1 kg) arugula (rocket)

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 Tbsp lemon juice

3 Tbsp almonds, toasted (page 264) and chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lb (500 g) spaghetti In a blender, combine the arugula, mint, olive oil, cheese, garlic, lemon zest, and salt and pepper to taste and blend until smooth. Stir in 1 Tbsp of the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente, 10–12 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta and return it to the empty pot. Toss the pesto with the spaghetti. Thin it out with a small amount of pasta water if necessary. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the additional 1 Tbsp lemon juice. Divide among serving bowls. Sprinkle cheese over each serving and serve right away.

4 lemon wedges Put the currants in a small bowl and add hot water to cover. Let stand until plump. Season the swordfish with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy frying pan over mediumhigh heat, warm 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the swordfish and cook until opaque throughout, about 3 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and keep warm. In a frying pan over medium-high heat, warm another 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add as much arugula as will fit in the pan. As the arugula wilts, add the remaining arugula. Cook until the arugula is wilted, about 4 minutes. If the pan gets too dry, add a splash of water. Remove from the heat. Drain the currants and add to the pan with the almonds and the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil. Season with salt. Arrange the swordfish and arugula on plates. Serve right away with the lemon wedges.

SPAGHETTI WITH ARUGULA-MINT PESTO

BAKED EGGS WITH SPINACH

CREAM

Baked Eggs with Spinach & Cream

Baby Spinach with Apples & Pecans

Sautéed Spinach with Feta & Pine Nuts

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp unsalted butter

⁄3 cup (2 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) plus 2 Tbsp plain low-fat yogurt

69 1

1

⁄3 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) mayonnaise

4 large eggs

1

⁄3 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbsp cider vinegar

4 tsp heavy (double) cream

1 Tbsp poppy seeds

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the spinach and cook until limp but still bright green, about 4 minutes. Drain well and rinse under cold running water. Drain again and squeeze to remove excess water. Coarsely chop the spinach. Divide the chopped spinach among the prepared ramekins. Dot each with 1⁄2 tsp of the remaining butter. Break an egg into each ramekin and sprinkle each with 1⁄2 tsp salt and 1⁄4 tsp pepper. Drizzle each with 1 tsp of the cream. Place the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the whites are set and the yolks are firm around the edges but still soft in the center, about 15 minutes. Serve right away.

4 cups (4 oz/ 125 g) baby spinach 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked and crumbled 1 tart apple, such as Fuji or Gala, cored and cut into cubes ⁄3 cup (1 ⁄2 oz/ 45 g) chopped candied pecans 1

1

1 Tbsp chopped fresh chives In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, poppy seeds, and season with salt and pepper to make a dressing. In a large bowl, toss together the spinach, bacon, apple, pecans, and chives. Add enough of the dressing to lightly coat the leaves and toss well. Serve right away.

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped Pinch of red pepper flakes 2 lb (1 kg) spinach, stems removed Salt 1 ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) pine nuts, toasted (page 264) 1

⁄2 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) crumbled feta cheese

1 lemon wedge Put the raisins in a small bowl and add hot water to cover. Let stand until plump. In a frying pan over medium heat, warm 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until fragrant. Add as much spinach as will fit in the pan. Raise the heat to high and add the remaining spinach as the first batch wilts. Cook until all the spinach has wilted and the water has evaporated, about 5 minutes. If the pan gets too dry before the spinach has fully cooked, add a splash of water. Remove from the heat. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil and the raisins. Season with salt. Transfer to a platter and top with the pine nuts and cheese. Squeeze the lemon over the top and serve right away.

spinach

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Coat four 1⁄2 -cup (4–fl oz/ 125-ml) ramekins with the 1 Tbsp butter.

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbsp golden raisins (sultanas)

l eaf y gr eens

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) baby spinach, large stems removed 1

1

BUYING CHICORIES Look for crispness in chicories. Buy firm , fat heads of Belgian endive (witloof) with tight, unblem ished leaves. In curly varieties, avoid brow ning, and pass over heads w ith thick, tough leaves. Select radicchio heads w ith w hite cores that are firm and have no holes, blem ishes, or m oist leaves. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Chicories Me m be rs o f this fa m ily o f ple a sa n tly bitte r g re e n s ca n also fall into the sturd y le ttuce s ca te gory (pa ge 59 ). Fa vorite s include Belgia n e ndive (witloo f), curly e ndive, e sca role (Ba ta via n e n dive ), frisé e , a n d ra dicchio. Chicorie s ha ve a ra nge o f use s, from sala ds to braise s to grille d side dishe s. Be lgia n e ndive is a torpe do -sha pe d sh o o t tha t som e tim e s ha s re d tips. Curly e ndive, also known a s chicory or curly chicory, ha s na rrow, spiky, finely curle d le a ve s a nd a cre a m y white he a rt. Frisé e, also a sturd y le ttuce, is slightly im m a ture curly e ndive, with a sm alle r he a d a nd m ore delica te a nd te nde r le a ve s. Esca role, also known a s com m on chicory, broa d chicory, or Ba ta via n e ndive, ha s loose, broa d, gre e n oute r le a ve s, wide white stalks, a nd a yellow-gre e n he a rt. Ra dicchio, a va rie ty o f chicory, is cha racte rize d by va rie ga te d purplish-re d le a ve s.

WORKING WITH CHICORIES Cut endives in half lengthw ise or separate the leaves. To wash chicories, wash and spin in a salad spinner or im m erse in a bow l w ith cold water. Discard any w ilted or yellowed leaves. Lift out the leaves gently and repeat until the water is clear. Dry in a salad spinner or by shaking gently in a clean kitchen towel.

BUYING CHARD

KALE

In both chard and kale bunches, look for dark green color and crisp, large, spreading leaves. Leaf shape and size w ill vary by type. Avoid any bunches that have brow n or yellow leaves, or ribs that are dry or w ilted enough to bend. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Chard

Kale

Kale, a m e m be r o f the ca bba ge fa m ily, ha s firm , tightly crinkle d le a ve s on long ste m s. The gre e n, sturd y le a ve s ha ve a n e a rthy fla vor sim ila r to ca bba ge a nd ke e p their te xture well when cooke d. Italian varie tie s have narrower, m ore ta pe re d le a ve s, while dinosaur kale (also calle d

cavolo nero ) ca n be re cognize d by its da rk gre e n color. Swiss cha rd, also known sim ply a s cha rd, ha s la rge, crinkle d le a ve s on fle shy, ribbe d ste m s. De pe nding on the va rie ty, the ste m s a nd ribs ca n be sca rle t re d, golde n yellow, or pe a rly white. Re d cha rd, som e tim e s la bele d ruby cha rd, ha s a slightly e a rthie r fla vor, while cha rd with white ste m s te nds to be swe e te r. Bo th cha rd a nd kale a nd a re a vaila ble a t local fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts during the autum n a nd winte r. Like o the r da rk, sturd y gre e ns, they ca n be highlighte d in soups a nd sauce s, braise d or sauté e d a s side dishe s, choppe d finely into fillings, a nd stirre d into sta rchy accom pa nim e nts.

WORKING WITH CHARD

KALE

Wash chard or kale as you would spinach ( page 65) . If the stem s are fibrous, use a paring knife to cut them away, along w ith the tough center vein that runs along the center of each leaf. Discard the veins. Cut and cook the stem s separately from the leaves, as they w ill take longer to becom e tender. Sautéed or sim m ered, stem pieces w ill take 5 to 10 m inutes to cook.

Roasted Endive & Pear Salad

Penne with Radicchio, Bacon & Fontina

Halibut with Braised Escarole & White Beans

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

2 red pears, unpeeled, halved, and cored

1 lb (500 g) whole-wheat penne

4 small heads Belgian endive (chicory/ witloof), coarsely chopped

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) olive oil, plus more for drizzling

chicor ies

l eaf y gr eens

72

4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) walnut oil 1

⁄8 tsp ground cloves

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tsp minced garlic 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) dry white wine 2 heads radicchio, cut crosswise into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-mm) strips

1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar

1

2 tsp minced shallot

1

1 head butter (Boston) lettuce, leaves separated 1 ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) chopped walnuts, toasted (page 264)

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) crumbled blue cheese, such as Roquefort

1

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Cut the pear halves lengthwise into slices 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick. Place the pears and endive on a baking sheet. Brush with 2 Tbsp of the walnut oil and sprinkle with the cloves. Season with salt and pepper. Roast, turning once, until both are softened, 7–9 minutes. Let cool. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 Tbsp oil, the vinegar, shallot, and a pinch each of salt and pepper to make a dressing. Divide the lettuce among individual plates. Arrange the pears and endives on the lettuce and drizzle with the dressing. Sprinkle with the walnuts and cheese and serve right away.

⁄2 lb (250 g) bacon, cooked

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced Pinch of red pepper flakes 1 lb (500 g) escarole (Batavian endive), cored and cut into 11⁄2 -inch (4-cm) squares Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

1 cup (7 oz/ 220 g) canned white beans such as cannellini, rinsed and drained

⁄3 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) grated soft cow’s milk cheese, such as fontina

6 halibut fillets, each 5–6 oz (155–185 g)

1

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the penne and cook until al dente, 10–12 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) of the cooking water and drain the pasta. Meanwhile, in a large frying pan over medium-low heat, warm the olive oil. Sauté the garlic for 1 minute. Add the wine and bring to a boil, stirring often, until reduced by half, 3–4 minutes. Add the radicchio and cook until slightly wilted, 1–2 minutes more. Add the pasta and reserved water as needed to the radicchio and stir well. Stir in the bacon, parsley, and half of the cheese. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the remaining cheese.

TREVISO RADICCHIO

GRILLED RADICCHIO WITH ANCHOIADE

Originating in the Vene to region of Italy but now grown all over the world, Treviso radicchio ha s elongated red leaves that look similar to those of Belgian endive. (The more common type of radicchio grows a s a small, round head.) It ha s a milder flavor than other types of radicchio and can be served raw in salads, grilled, or baked into a gratin.

In a blender, purée 10 anchovy fillets and 8 cloves garlic. Stir in 3 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley. With the machine running, add 1⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 ml) olive oil until a thick paste forms. Halve the radicchio lengthwise, coat lightly with olive oil, and grill (page 264) over medium-high heat until lightly charred, 5–7 minutes. Serve topped with the anchovy-parsley mixture. Makes 6 servings.

Lemon wedges for serving In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute. Add as much escarole as will fit in the pan. As the escarole wilts, continue adding the rest. If the pan gets dry, add a splash of water. Cook until the escarole is slightly wilted, 1–2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the beans and 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) water. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise until the escarole is very tender and the liquid has thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm. Season the halibut fillets with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add the halibut and cook until opaque throughout, about 2 minutes per side. Spoon the escarole and beans onto individual plates and top with the halibut. Drizzle with olive oil and serve accompanied by lemon wedges.

HALIBUT WITH BRAISED ESCAROLE

WHITE BEANS

SWISS CHARD, ONION

CHEESE FRITTATA

Wilted Kale with Lemon & Garlic

Orecchiette with Kale, Chickpeas & Sausage

Swiss Chard, Onion & Cheese Frittata

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp plus 2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb (500 g) orecchiette

1 bunch swiss chard, about 1 ⁄4 lb (625 g)

2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp minced garlic

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

⁄2 tsp red pepper flakes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 bunches kale, about 2 lb (1 kg) total weight, stems removed

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) chicken broth

6 large eggs

75

Transfer to a platter and serve right away.

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parmesan

⁄4 lb (375 g) linguiça-style sausage, sliced 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick

Pinch of cayenne pepper

11⁄2 cups (8 1⁄2 oz/ 265 g) canned chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350˚F (180˚C). Cut the chard stems crosswise into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thick. Coarsely chop the leaves.

3

1 ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parmesan

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orecchiette and cook until al dente, 10–12 minutes or according to the package directions. Reserve 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) of the cooking water and drain the pasta. While the pasta is cooking, in a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the broth, kale, and a pinch of salt. Raise the heat to high, cover the pan, and cook until the kale begins to wilt, 1–2 minutes. Remove the cover and add the sausage. Continue cooking until the leaves are tender and the liquid has evaporated, 3–4 minutes more. Stir in the chickpeas and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Add the orecchiette to the kale and stir to combine. Stir in 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) of the pasta water to moisten the mixture, adding more if needed. Transfer the pasta to a serving dish and sprinkle with the cheese. Serve right away.

In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until tender, about 6 minutes. Add the chard stems, season with salt, and sauté about 4 minutes. Add the chopped leaves and sauté until tender, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Set aside. In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the garlic and cheese. Season with the cayenne, salt, and black pepper. Gently squeeze the liquid from the chard and stir into the egg mixture. In an 8-inch (20-cm) ovenproof frying pan over mediumhigh heat, warm the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add the egg mixture, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the eggs are set around the edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the oven and cook until set, 7–9 minutes longer. Let cool briefly. If desired, invert the frittata onto a large plate. Cut into wedges and serve right away.

char d & kal e

In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the remaining 2 tsp olive oil. Cut the kale leaves crosswise into 1-inch (2.5-cm) strips and add to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale wilts, 5–7 minutes. Uncover, drizzle the vinaigrette over the top, and toss. Season with salt and pepper.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1

l eaf y gr eens

In a small bowl, whisk together the 2 Tbsp olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste to make a vinaigrette. Set aside.

2 bunches dinosaur kale, stems removed and leaves cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces

1

Roots STARCHY POTATOES W AXY POTATOES

Tubers

Ve ge table s tha t grow below ground, roots and tubers, offer substance to m eals tha t m ake use of them . Many, such a s be e ts, carrots, and parsnips, are na turally swe e t, a characteristic tha t is intensifie d during cooking. Others are plea santly bland or

NEW POTATOES

earthy. Still others, such as sharp-flavored radishes, are decidedly bold. Of the m any roots and tubers, pota toe s m ay be the olde st,

SW EET POTATOES BEETS BEET GREENS

having spread from the Incan civiliza tion of Peru throughout m ost of the world. Tubers are distinguishe d from root ve ge table s by their ability to reproduce. Unlike roots, pota toe s and other tubers are actually

CARROTS PARSNIPS CELERY ROOT

round fle shy stem s from which a new plant can grow. The se new shoots em erge from the eye s of a pota to. Roots such a s carrots, parsnips, turnips, and rutabagas do not have this potential. But wha t roots and tubers do share is a dense, hearty te xture and a generally long shelf life.

TURNIPS Although roots and tubers are often thought of a s winter foods,

RUTABAGAS RADISHES FRENCH BREAKFAST RADISHES

the y a lso a ppe a r in spring: swe e t little ca rro ts, te nde r ba by turnips, a nd tiny m ulticolore d ra dishe s a re welcom e sights a t farm ers’ m arke ts alongside new artichoke s and a sparagus.

BUYING STARCHY POTATOES Choose firm potatoes that are not blem ished, w rinkled, tinged w ith green, or cracked. If the potatoes have any buds, com m only called eyes, they should show no sprouting. Potatoes keep well for up to 2 weeks in a cool, dry, dark, and well-ventilated place such as a pantry or drawer. Avoid storing potatoes in the refrigerator to preserve their flavor and texture.

Starchy Potatoes Na tive to South Am e rica, the sta rchy po ta to is a n e dible m e m be r o f the nightsha de fa m ily, along with tom a toe s a nd e g g pla n ts. Po ta to e s a re tube rs, or e nla rge d unde rground ste m s tha t store up e ne rg y in the form o f sta rch. Sta rchy po ta toe s a re la rge a nd oval, with dry, re ddish brown skins. The m ost com m on sta rchy po ta to varie ty is the fam e d Russe t Burbank from Idaho. Spe cialty sta rchy po ta toe s include the Le hm i, a la rge brown po ta to with white fle sh, a nd the butte rfinge r, with brown russe t skin a nd golde n fle sh. All-purpose po ta toe s, such a s the Ke nne be c o f Main work well in a wide ra nge o f re cipe s. The Kennebe c is e spe cially prize d for m aking French frie s. La rge, fully m a ture tube rs a re ha rve ste d during la te sum m e r. Once cooke d, sta rchy po ta toe s be com e light, dry, a nd fluffy, m aking the m ide al for baking whole, or for m a shing.

WORKING WITH STARCHY POTATOES Starchy potatoes can be used either peeled or unpeeled. In either case, scrub them well w ith a stiff brush under cold running water to rem ove any dirt. If peeling, use a vegetable peeler to rem ove the skin, and cut out the eyes, if any, w ith a paring knife or the tip of the peeler. Cut away any traces of green spots.

BUYING WAXY POTATOES Choose firm potatoes free of blem ishes, w rinkles, cracks, or any tinges of green. Look for loose potatoes, as those packaged in plastic bags sprout m ore readily. Mature waxy potatoes store well for up to 2 weeks in a cool, dry, dark place such as a pantry or drawer. New potatoes should be used as soon after purchasing as possible, as they do not keep well.

Wa xy Potatoes Posse ssing m oiste r, de nse r fle sh tha n their sta rchy cousins, wa xy po ta toe s typically ha ve thin skins a nd lowe r a m ounts o f sta rch. They grow in a wide a rray o f sha pe s, colors, a nd va rie tie s. Pe rha ps the m ost fa m ilia r a re the co m m o n re d or white po ta to e s. Ye llow Finn ha ve yellowish skin a nd fine -graine d, butte ry fle sh, while Pe ru via n po ta toe s ha ve distinctive purple pe el a nd fle sh. Spe cia lty va rie tie s includ e sm a ll, o blo ng finge rling po ta toe s: Re d Gold, with yellow fle sh a nd ne tte d re d skin ; Re d Da le , sligh tly fla t po ta to e s with white fle sh a nd re d skin ; All Re d, with ro sy skin a nd fle sh ; a nd Ro se Fir, which ha ve pink skin a nd yellow fle sh. Availa ble in spring a nd e a rly sum m e r, fre shly dug wa xy pota toe s have a swe e t flavor and creamy te xture. Ke eping their sha pe well, wa xy po ta toe s a re ide al for roa sting, sim m e ring in ste ws a nd soups, a nd boiling or ste a m ing for po ta to sala ds.

WORKING WITH WAXY POTATOES Scrub the potatoes well w ith a stiff brush under cold running water to rem ove dirt, taking care not to scrape off thin skins. Green areas on potatoes are know n to be m ildly toxic, so trim them off before cooking. It is generally not necessary to peel waxy potatoes, but for a decorative look, you can rem ove a thin strip of peel from the center section of the vegetable.

Crisp Skillet Potato Cake

Perfect French Fries with Ketchup

Spanish Tortilla with Red Peppers

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

1 lb (500 g) starchy potatoes, peeled and grated

4 russet potatoes, about 2 lb (1 kg) total w eight

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Canola oil for deep-frying

2 lb (1 kg) starchy potatoes, peeled and sliced 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 60 g) unsalted butter

Coarse salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Ketchup for dipping

2 yellow onions, thinly sliced

TU BERS

80 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) plus 2 Tbsp olive oil

Place the potatoes in a bowl, season w ith

STARCH Y PO TATO ES

RO O TS

r

salt and pepper, and let stand for at least

Cut the potatoes lengthwise into slices 1 ⁄2 inch

5 m inutes. Squeeze the potatoes to rem ove

(12 m m ) thick. Cut the slices lengthw ise

6 large eggs 1 large red bell pepper (capsicum ), roasted (page 264), peeled, seeded, and cut into thin strips

as m uch water as possible. Transfer to

into sticks 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick. Place the

a second bowl.

potato slices in a bowl of cold water and let

In an 8 -inch (20 -cm ) nonstick frying pan

stand for 15 m inutes. Pat dry before frying.

Position a rack in the upper third of the

over m edium heat, m elt 2 Tbsp of the

Pour enough canola oil into a large,

oven and preheat to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) .

butter. Add the potatoes and press them

heavy pot to reach 2 inches (5 cm ) up

w ith a spatula to form an even cake. Cook

In a large frying pan over low heat, warm

the sides and heat to 330 °F (165°C) on

until the bottom is crisp and deep golden

the 1 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) olive oil. Add

a deep-frying therm om eter.

half of the potato slices to the pan and fry

Working in batches, carefully place 3 large

until tender but not browned, 15 –20 m inutes.

Rem ove from the heat and invert the cake

handfuls of the potatoes into the pot. Fry until

Transfer to a plate and season w ith salt and

onto a large plate. In the sam e frying pan

the potatoes are lightly golden, 4 –5 m inutes.

pepper. Repeat w ith the rem aining potato

brown, 12–15 m inutes.

over m edium heat, m elt the rem aining 2 Tbsp butter. Slide the potato cake back into the pan, brow ned side up. Cook until the bottom is crisp and deep golden brow n, 10 –12 m inutes. Slide onto a serving plate, season w ith salt, and cut into wedges. Serve right away.

Using tongs or a long skim m er, transfer the

slices. Leave the oil in the pan.

potatoes to a platter lined w ith paper towels

In another frying pan over m edium heat,

to drain. Between batches, let the oil return

warm the rem aining 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add the

to 330 °F (165°C) and rem ove any bits from

onions and sauté until soft and translucent,

the oil (the partially fried potatoes w ill keep

about 15 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat

at room tem perature for up to 2 hours) .

and let cool.

Just before serving, reheat the oil to 370 °F

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until blended.

(18 8 °C) . In batches, fry the potatoes in

Stir in the onions and the roasted pepper.

the sam e m anner until golden and crisp,

Season w ith salt and pepper. Fold in the

3 – 5 m inutes. Drain on fresh paper towels.

cooked potatoes.

Transfer to a serving bowl, season to taste

Heat the oil rem aining in the large frying

w ith salt, and serve w ith ketchup.

pan over low heat and pour in the egg

Caution: When deep-frying, do not heat the oil above 375°F (190°C), if it reaches 400°F (200°C), it may start to smoke, then burst into flame.

m ixture. Cook until the eggs are set around the edges, 8 –10 m inutes. Transfer to the oven and cook until set, 4 – 5 m inutes. Let cool briefly. Invert the om elet onto a large serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve right away.

PERFECT FRENCH FRIES WITH KETCHUP

ROASTED POTATOES WITH ROSEMARY

BAY

Potato Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

Pan-fried Blue Potatoes with Sage

Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary & Bay

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

2 lb (1 kg) sm all, round red-skinned potatoes, each about 11⁄2 inches (4 cm ) in diam eter

3

⁄4 lb (375 g) sm all blue potatoes

2 lb (1 kg) w axy potatoes

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

1 head garlic, cloves separated

83

2 Tbsp red w ine vinegar

Salt

1 bay leaf Place the potatoes in a large saucepan w ith

Salt and freshly ground pepper

water to cover. Bring to a boil over high

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) thinly sliced

heat and cook until the potatoes are tender

3 Tbsp olive oil Salt

green (spring) onions, w hite and light green parts

when pierced w ith a fork, about 15 m inutes. enough to handle, slice potatoes 3 ⁄8 inch

Put the potatoes in a large piece of alum inum

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan w ith

(1 cm ) thick, discarding any loose skin.

foil or a large shallow baking dish just large

heat, reduce the heat to m edium -low, cover, and sim m er until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 m inutes. Drain and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) .

Drain potatoes and pat dry. When cool

enough to hold them in a single layer. In a m edium frying pan over m edium -high heat, heat the olive oil. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer, leaving 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m )

Add the garlic, rosem ary, bay leaf, and olive oil. Season w ith salt and toss w ell. Add a splash of water.

betw een slices ( you m ay need to cook in 2 batches) . Sauté the potatoes, turning

Tightly close up the foil or cover the baking

In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil,

once, until golden and crusty on both sides,

dish w ith foil and bake until the potatoes

vinegar, m ustard, 1 ⁄2 tsp salt, and pepper

8 – 9 m inutes total. Rem ove w ith a slotted

are tender w hen pierced w ith a knife,

to taste to m ake a dressing.

spoon and drain on paper towels, blotting dry.

4 0 – 6 0 m inutes. Serve right away.

As soon as the potatoes are cool, quarter

Add sage leaves to the warm pan; they w ill

them and add them to the dressing. Add

sizzle and curl slightly. In 10 seconds, turn

the green onions and toss. Serve right

leaves w ith tongs and fry for 5 seconds

away or at room tem perature.

longer. Drain sage on fresh paper towels. Arrange potatoes on a warm ed platter, sprinkle w ith 1 tsp salt, and top w ith sage leaves. Serve right away.

NEW POTATOES

ROASTED POTATOES WITH HERBS

Ne w po ta to e s a re sm a ll, im m a ture wa x y

In a roasting pan, stir together 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/

po ta to e s with a low sta rch con te n t. The y a re

60 m l) olive oil, 2 Tbsp lem on juice, 1 tsp salt,

typica lly a va ila ble o nly in th e spring a n d

1

e a rly su m m e r, a lth o ugh th e y ca n be found

Toss in 2 1 ⁄2 lb ( 1.25 kg) unpeeled new potatoes,

spora dica lly a t o the r tim e s. Avoid bu ying

rinsed, into the oil m ixture. Roast in a preheated

tho se with cra cks, wrin kling , o r ble m ish e s.

425°F ( 220°C) oven, turning often, until golden

Store the m in a co ol, dry pla ce, a nd u se within

brown, about 45 m inutes total. Garnish with

2 or 3 da ys o f purcha se .

1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil and 1 Tbsp chopped

⁄4 tsp paprika, and 1 ⁄2 tsp freshly ground pepper.

fresh chives. Serve right away. Makes 4 – 6 servings.

W AXY PO TATO ES

water to cover. Bring to a boil over high



TU BERS

1 Tbsp Dijon m ustard

1

5 sprigs rosem ary, each 1 inch (2.5 cm ) long

RO O TS

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

10 m edium fresh sage leaves

BUYING SWEET POTATOES Sweet potatoes are som etim es erroneously labeled as yam s in m arkets. Whether choosing yellow - or orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, choose firm , sm ooth vegetables w ithout blem ishes, m old, or broken skin. Store them in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place for up to 1 week. For the best flavor and texture, avoid refrigerating sweet potatoes.

Swee t Potatoes One o f the m a ny contributions o f the Am e rica s to the glo ba l pa n try, the swe e t po ta to typica lly ha s e ithe r yellow-brown skin a nd yellow fle sh, or da rk re ddish or purplish skin a nd da rk ora nge fle sh. Spe cialty va rie tie s o f swe e t po ta toe s include white -fle she d, beige -skinne d Ja pa ne se Swe e t; Louisia na’s fa m ous coppe r colore d Be aure ga rd ; the de e p re d-ora nge Je wel; the re d-purple Ca rolina Ruby; a nd the long, na rrow ba ta ta originally from the Ca ribbe a n. Swe e t po ta toe s a re be st in autum n a nd winte r, though they a re ge ne rally a vaila ble ye a r-round. Swe e t po ta toe s ca n be substitute d in m a ny re cipe s for re gula r po ta toe s, whe re roa sting, baking, frying, ste wing, or ste a m ing highligh t the ir rich fla vor a nd firm te xture ; the y will contribute m ore m oisture to the re cipe, so e xpe ct a slightly diffe re nt te xture.

WORKING WITH SWEET POTATOES Like starchy potatoes, sweet potatoes can be used either peeled or unpeeled. Scrub unpeeled vegetables thoroughly w ith a stiff brush under cold running water to rem ove any dirt. If peeling, use a sharp vegetable peeler, and cut out the eyes, if any, w ith a paring knife. Cut the potatoes just before cooking to prevent them from drying out.

BUYING BEETS Regardless of their size, look for firm , rounded beets ( beetroots) w ith sm ooth skins and no noticeable bruising. Fresh beets are often sold in bunches w ith the greens and root ends attached. Do not buy beets with wilted, browning leaves, as the greens are an indicator of freshness. Separate the greens from the beets, and store both in the refrigerator in plastic bags for up to 5 days.

Bee ts Once thought o f a s hum ble, ungla m orous kitche n sta ple s, be e ts (also calle d be e troo ts) a re now showing up on fa shiona ble re staura nt m e nus in all their vibra nt hue s a nd size s. Ma ny be e ts boa st a de e p, rich re d color com bine d with a swe e t, e a rthy fla vor a nd te nde r te xture, m aking the m a ve rsa tile fa vorite. To d a y, m a rke ts o fte n sto ck m ore tha n the fa m ilia r ruby-re d type. It is not unusual to find pink, golden, white, a nd e ve n stripe d be e ts, the be st-known va rie ty o f which is the visually striking Chioggia, a pink-and-white heirloom fro m Ita ly. Alth ough a ll be e ts ha ve a cha ra cte ristic swe e tne ss, the com m only e a te n va rie ty is distinct from the la rge r suga r be e t, which is no t sold a s a ve ge ta ble. The gre e ns o f be e ts a re e dible a nd should be cooke d in the sa m e m a nne r a s cha rd (pa ge 71 ). Although be e ts a re a va ila ble ye a r-round, the ir pe a k se a so n is la te sum m e r a nd autum n.

WORKING WITH BEETS Beets are best when cooked whole, peeled, and then sliced, chopped, or m ashed. Roasting beets w ill intensify their flavor and color. Wrap them in alum inum foil for quick cleanup. If boiling, leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm ) of the stem and the root end intact to keep the beets from “bleeding” into the water. Rem ove the stem s from beet greens, rinse well, and spin dry.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Brown Sugar & Pecans

Baked Sweet Potatoes with Brown Butter & Sage

Beef and Sweet Potato Stir-Fry

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 8 – 10 SERVINGS

M AKES 2 – 4 SERVINGS

6 sw eet potatoes, peeled

1

86

TU BERS

4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 60 g) unsalted butter 2 1⁄2 Tbsp light brow n sugar Salt 2 Tbsp chopped pecans

RO O TS

Trim the ends from the potatoes. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan w ith water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat until the potatoes are tender when pierced w ith

SW EET PO TATO ES

butter, plus extra for greasing 4 lb (2 kg) sw eet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) cubes 1



a fork, about 15 m inutes. Drain and let cool. In a sm all saucepan over low heat, m elt the butter. Let cool.

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) plus 2 Tbsp unsalted

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh sage

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

⁄2 lb (250 g) flank steak

11⁄2 tsp reduced-sodium soy sauce, plus extra for serving 11⁄2 tsp plus 4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) peanut oil 11⁄2 tsp oyster sauce 1 sw eet potato, cut into m atchsticks

Preheat the oven to 425°F (2 20 °C) . Butter a 13-by-9 -inch (33-by-23-cm) baking dish and place the sweet potatoes in the dish. In a heavy frying pan over m edium -low heat, m elt the butter and cook until golden brow n, about 5 m inutes. Add the sage and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to cook

2 sm all dried red chiles 4 green (spring) onions, cut diagonally into 11⁄2 -inch (4-cm ) pieces 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1-inch (2.5-cm ) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin slices

Preheat the oven to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Using

until the butter is a deep golden brow n,

1 Tbsp of the m elted butter, grease a 6 -cup

about 2 m inutes m ore. Pour the brow ned

Fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) leaves for garnish

(1.5 -l) baking dish.

butter over the sw eet potatoes and season

Cooked White Rice (page 262) for serving

Place the potatoes in a large m ixing bowl

w ith salt and pepper. Cover the dish w ith

and m ash w ith a potato m asher or electric

alum inum foil.

m ixer until sm ooth. Stir in 2 Tbsp of the

Bake the sw eet potatoes until tender

m elted butter, 1 Tbsp of the brow n sugar,

when pierced w ith a fork, about 20 m inutes.

1

and the ⁄2 tsp salt. Spoon the m ashed

Cut the steak in half lengthw ise. Cut the halves against the grain into slices about 1

Transfer to a platter and serve right away.

⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick. In a sm all bowl, toss

together the beef, the 11⁄2 tsp soy sauce, the

potato m ixture into the baking dish. Dot

11 ⁄2 tsp peanut oil, and the oyster sauce.

the rem aining 2 Tbsp butter, the rem aining

Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

11 ⁄2 Tbsp brow n sugar, and the chopped

In a large, heavy frying pan over high heat,

pecans over the top.

warm 2 Tbsp of the oil. Add the beef and

Bake until the sugar m elts and the m ixture

sear for 1 m inute w ithout stirring. Stir-fry

is hot, about 15 m inutes. Serve right away.

the beef until the m eat is cooked through, about 2 m inutes. Rem ove from the pan. Return the pan to high heat and heat the rem aining 2 Tbsp oil. Add the sweet potato and dried chiles, season w ith salt, and sear for 1 m inute w ithout stirring. Add the green onions and stir-fry until the potatoes are just tender, about 1 m inute. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 1 m inute longer. Return the beef to the pan and stir-fry until heated through. Transfer to a large platter and garnish w ith cilantro. Serve right away w ith white rice and soy sauce.

BEEF

SWEET POTATO STIR-FRY

ROASTED BEETS WITH GOAT CHEESE

HERBS

Golden Beet & Blue Cheese Risotto

Roasted Beet Soup with Feta & Dill

Roasted Beets with Goat Cheese & Herbs

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

3 large red beets, trim m ed leaving 1 inch (2 cm ) of stem

6 beets, about 1 ⁄2 lb (24 oz/ 750 g) total w eight, greens rem oved

11⁄2 Tbsp olive oil

1 tsp chopped fresh thym e

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 tsp chopped fresh chives

89 3

⁄4 lb (375 g) golden beets

Salt

1 sm all yellow onion, finely diced

1

5 cups (40 fl oz/ 1.25 l) chicken broth

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

4 cups (32 fl oz/ 1 l) beef broth

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 oz (60 g) fresh goat cheese, crum bled

⁄2 cup (2 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) crum bled feta cheese

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) dry w hite w ine

1

1

⁄3 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) grated hard cheese,

1 Tbsp dill, coarsely chopped

1

Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) .

Preheat the oven to 35 0˚F (18 0˚C) . Put the

and roast until tender when pierced w ith a

beets in a baking dish and drizzle evenly

fork, about 1 hour, depending on their size.

Preheat the oven to 4 0 0˚F (20 0˚C) . Put the

w ith the olive oil, turning them to coat well.

When cool, peel and quarter the beets and

beets in a baking dish w ith water to cover

Roast until tender w hen pierced w ith a

place in a serving bowl.

the bottom . Cover tightly w ith alum inum foil

fork, about 1 hour, depending on their size.

and roast until tender when pierced w ith a

Rem ove from the oven. When cool, peel the

fork, 4 0 – 6 0 m inutes. Uncover and let cool.

beets and coarsely chop them . Set aside.

When cool, cut off the beet tops and root

In a large saucepan over m edium heat,

ends, peel, and cut into ⁄4 -inch ( 6 -m m )

salt and pepper, and top w ith the crum bled

m elt the butter. Add the onion and sauté

dice. Season w ith salt.

goat cheese. Serve right away.

until translucent, about 2 m inutes. Add the

In a large, heavy pot over m edium heat,

chopped beets and the broth, bring to a

m elt 2 Tbsp of the butter. Add the onion

sim m er, reduce the heat to low, and cook,

and a pinch of salt and sauté until the onion

uncovered, for about 10 m inutes.

is soft, about 8 m inutes.

Transfer to a blender or food processor and

Meanwhile, in a saucepan over low heat,

purée until sm ooth. Return the purée to the

bring the broth and 1 tsp salt to a sim m er.

saucepan, place over m edium heat, and

4 Tbsp crum bled blue cheese

1

Stir the rice into the onion until translucent,

In a separate bowl, m ix together the thym e, chives, and olive oil. Drizzle the olive oil– herb m ixture over the beets, season w ith

heat through. Season w ith salt and pepper.

about 3 m inutes. Add the w ine and stir

Ladle the soup into individual warm ed

until absorbed. Add 3 ⁄4 cup ( 6 fl oz/ 185 m l)

bowls. Top w ith the feta cheese and dill

of the broth and sim m er vigorously, stirring

and serve right away.

often, until the liquid is alm ost absorbed. Add another ladleful of broth. Continue sim m ering, stirring, and adding m ore broth

BEET GREENS

STIR-FRIED BEET GREENS WITH GINGER

Stir in the beets and heat through, about

Be e t g re e n s, th e e d ible le a fy g re e n to ps

In a large saucepan over m edium -high heat, add

1 m inute. Stir in the rem aining 1 Tbsp butter

a tta ch e d to be e ts, a re o fte n cu t fro m th e

1 Tbsp canola oil, 2 tsp peeled and m inced fresh

and the cheese. Let stand for 2 m inutes.

be e ts a nd disca rde d bu t the y a re a ctua lly

ginger, and 1 tsp garlic. Heat until the garlic begins

Season w ith salt and serve right away.

quite de liciou s. Sim ila r to cha rd or spina ch,

to sizzle, about 10 seconds. Add 1 lb ( 500 g)

be e t g re e n s le nd the m se lve s we ll to stir-frying,

beet greens, rinsed and drained and toss to coat.

sa u té ing, a nd bra ising. Lo ok for the m in la te

Cover the pan to steam the greens until tender,

sum m er and autum n whe n be e ts are in se a son.

9 –12 m inutes. Season with coarse salt. Transfer

until the rice is tender, about 25 m inutes.

to a warm ed serving dish and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

BEETS

Wrap the beets individually in alum inum foil

such as Parm esan



TU BERS

11⁄2 cups (10 1⁄2 oz/ 330 g) short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano

⁄4 cup yellow onion, chopped

RO O TS

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

1

BUYING CARROTS Look for sm ooth, firm , brightly colored carrots w ithout cracks or any green near the stem . If the carrots still have their leaves, cut them off before storing. Leave 1 inch (2.5 cm ) of the green tops on the carrots to preserve m oisture. Keep carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Carrots Rela tive s o f pa rsley, swe e t a nd crisp ca rro ts a re a m ong the m ost popula r o f all ve ge ta ble s. Although the fa m ilia r long, ta pe re d, ora nge Im pe ra tor ca rro t is by fa r the m ost widely a vaila ble, local fa rm e rs a re incre a singly growing spe cial va rie tie s with m a ny diffe re nt sha pe s a nd hue s. The Na n te s, d e e p ora nge a nd cylindrica l in sha pe , is a delica te ca rro t only a vaila ble from sm alle r growe rs. The Cha nte nay, with a short, thick, cone -sha pe d roo t, is ha rve ste d while still im m a ture for ba by ca rro ts. Tiny, finge r-sha pe d Ba m bina, pointe d Horn, a nd ciga r-sha pe d Bole ro a re a m ong the o the r spe cial va rie tie s o ffe re d a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts. Ca rro ts grow ye a r-round but a re a t their swe e te st from e a rly winte r through spring. Use raw ca rro ts in sala ds a nd sa nd wiche s. Braise d or sim m e re d, they ble nd into soups, sauce s, a nd ste ws. Roa ste d or sauté e d, they ca n sta r on their own a s a colorful side dish.

WORKING WITH CARROTS If the carrots are sm all and tender, sim ply scrub them under cold running water w ith a soft vegetable brush and use w ithout peeling them . Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to peel larger vegetables before use. Trim the stem s and tough ends before using.

BUYING PARSNIPS Look for sm all to m edium parsnips that are pale, firm , and unblem ished. Larger ones tend to be tough and have a woody core that m ust be rem oved. If you purchase parsnips w ith the greens still attached, they should look fresh and not dry. Cut off the greens and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 m onth.

Parsnips Kin to the ca rro t, the se ivory-colore d roo ts closely re se m ble their brighte r, m ore fa m ilia r cousin. Pa rsnips ha ve a swe e t, slightly e a rthy fla vor a nd a tough, sta rchy te xture tha t softens with cooking. It is a popular vege table across northern Europe, where it thrives in the cool climate, a nd wa s ca rrie d to North Am e rica by the e a rly colonists. Alth ough the y a re now a va ila ble ye a r-round, pa rsnips a re a t the ir pe a k during the win te r, whe n the fro sty we a the r conve rts their sta rche s to suga r. Som e de vo te e s o f the na turally ripe ne d roo t find tha t pa rsnips dug up in the spring tim e a re the swe e te st o f all. Pa rsnips le nd the m se lve s we ll to puré e s a nd soups. The y a re a lso e xce lle n t ro a ste d with o the r ro o t ve ge ta ble s such a s ca rro ts a nd po ta toe s.

WORKING WITH PARSNIPS Young tender roots can be used unpeeled if first scrubbed with a vegetable brush, while the tough skins of m ore m ature parsnips should be peeled before cooking. If needed, cut out and discard the hard, fibrous core found in large parsnips. Cook peeled and cut parsnips im m ediately, or toss them w ith lem on juice to prevent them from discoloring.

Carrot Salad with Cumin, Coriander & Cilantro

Carrot Purée with Tarragon

Roasted Baby Carrots with Honey Glaze

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

1 clove garlic

4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) pieces

11⁄2 lb baby carrots of sim ilar size, peeled and trim m ed, leaving about 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) of the carrot top

92

TU BERS

Salt

CARRO TS

RO O TS



1 tsp cum in seeds, toasted (page 264) and ground 1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted (page 264) and ground

2 Tbsp chicken broth 2 Tbsp heavy (double) cream 3 tsp m inced fresh tarragon Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) fresh lem on juice

1 lb (500 g) carrots, peeled and shaved into thin strips 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) extra-virgin

olive oil 1

⁄3 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) chopped fresh

cilantro (fresh coriander)

1 tsp finely grated lem on zest

Place the carrots in a large saucepan w ith water to cover. Bring to a boil over high

If the carrots are larger than 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m )

heat. Cover and reduce the heat to m edium .

in diam eter, halve them lengthw ise. In a

Cook until the carrots are tender and can

frying pan large enough to hold the carrots

be pierced w ith a fork, 15 –20 m inutes.

in a single layer, add the carrots and enough

Drain the carrots and transfer to a blender or food processor. Add the chicken broth, cream , and 1 tsp of the tarragon and process

Using a m ortar and pestle or flat side of

to a sm ooth purée. Transfer to a large serving

a knife, m ash the garlic into a paste w ith

bow l and season w ith salt and pepper.

a pinch of salt. In a sm all bowl, stir together

Garnish w ith the rem aining 2 tsp tarragon

the garlic, cum in, coriander, cayenne, and

and serve right away.

lem on juice. Put the carrots in a large

Serve carrot purée alongside a white fleshed fish such as halibut.

serving bowl and season w ith salt. Add the

2 Tbsp honey

Salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper, or m ore to taste 1

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

water to com e halfway up the sides of the carrots. Add the butter, honey, lem on zest, and 1 tsp salt and bring the water to a boil. Partially cover the pan, reduce the heat to m edium -high, and continue to boil until the carrots can easily be pierced w ith a fork, about 10 m inutes. Uncover and continue to boil until the cooking liquid evaporates and the carrots

garlic m ixture, toss well, and let stand for

start to caram elize, about 4 m inutes. Season

10 m inutes. Add the olive oil and cilantro

w ith salt and serve right away.

and toss. Serve right away.

MULTICOLORED CARROTS

CRUDITÉS WITH GREEN GODDESS DRESSING

At fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts in the spring, you ca n find ca rro ts in a ra in bo w o f co lo rs su ch a s white ,

On a large platter, arrange 8 whole m ulticolored

ye llow, re d, a nd purple . The spe cific colors a re

carrots, 3 cooked red or yellow beets, cut into

due to a va rie ty o f g rowing condition s such

chunks, 6–8 cooked new potatoes, cut into

a s te m pera ture, type o f soil, wa ter, and num ber

halves, 12 sm all radishes, and 4 celery stalks,

o f da yligh t hours. While the y ha ve only ga ine d

cut into 3-inch ( 7.5-cm ) lengths. Serve with

popula rity in re ce n t ye a rs, m ulticolore d ca rro ts

Green Goddess Dressing ( page 262) on the

h a ve be e n a ro u n d sin ce a n cie n t tim e s. Use

side for dipping. Makes 4 servings.

the m in a ny re cipe tha t ca lls for ca rro ts.

CARROT SALAD WITH CUMIN, CORIANDER

CILANTRO

ROASTED PARSNIPS WITH PEARS

HAZELNUTS

Parsnip & Potato Purée with Chives

Parsnips Glazed with Sherry & Ginger

Roasted Parsnips with Pears & Hazelnuts

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 3 – 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

95 1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) chunks 1

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) Yukon gold or other w axy potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) chunks 1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) chicken broth or w ater

1

1 lb (500 g) parsnips, peeled and quartered lengthw ise 3 pears, such as Bosc or Anjou 3 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp dry sherry

Salt

2 tsp m inced fresh ginger

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

cut into pieces

1 tsp chopped fresh thym e

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) heavy (double) cream or half-and-half (half cream )

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 Tbsp hazelnuts (filberts), toasted (page 264) and finely chopped

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) unsalted butter,

3

1 tsp fresh lem on juice

Preheat the oven to 4 0 0˚F (20 0˚C) .

Cut the parsnips in half lengthw ise, then

Rem ove the cores from the parsnips.

cut the halves in half again. Cut the pieces in

Cut into 3 -inch ( 7.5 -cm ) lengths, or if the

half crossw ise. Rem ove the cores if woody.

quarters are sm all, leave as is. Halve the pears

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) finely snipped

fresh chives Put the parsnips and 1 Tbsp salt in a large pot and add water to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm ) . In a separate pot, do the sam e w ith the potatoes. Bring both to a low boil, reduce the heat, and sim m er until the parsnips and potatoes can be pierced w ith a knife, about 25 m inutes. Drain and let cool. Pass the parsnips and potatoes through a food m ill or m ash w ith a potato m asher. Return to one of the pots and stir in the butter and cream . Reheat if necessary over low heat, stirring frequently. Season w ith salt and pepper. Transfer to a bow l and sprinkle w ith the chives. Serve right away.

lengthw ise and rem ove the cores, leaving Arrange the parsnips in a frying pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add the broth, butter, sherry, ginger, and thym e. Season w ith salt. Partially cover the pan and bring to a sim m er over m edium heat. Cook until the parsnips are tender when pierced w ith a knife, 7– 9 m inutes. Uncover the pan, raise the heat to high, and continue to cook until the juices are reduced to a glaze, 4 – 6 m inutes. Season w ith the lem on juice and pepper. Transfer the parsnips to a serving dish and serve right away.

the stem attached. Cut the halves into quarters or, if the pears are especially large, into sixths. Put the parsnips and pears on a baking sheet, drizzle w ith the olive oil, and toss to coat evenly. Spread out in an even layer and season with salt. Roast until tender and brow ned, 30 – 4 0 m inutes. In a sm all saucepan over m edium -high heat, m elt the butter. Add a pinch of salt and sw irl the pan frequently until the butter brow ns. Add the hazelnuts and im m ediately drizzle the butter over the parsnips and pears. Season with salt and serve right away.

PARSN IPS

1



TU BERS

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

RO O TS

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 lb (500 g) parsnips, peeled

BUYING CELERY ROOT Look for firm , m edium -sized celery roots (celeriacs) , about the size of sm all grapefruits. They should feel heavy for their size and be free of bruising and soft spots. Tangled root ends are acceptable, as are green stalks grow ing from the top. Trim any stalks and then store the roots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Celery Root Though within the sa m e bo ta nical group, cele ry roo t is a distinct va rie ty fro m the pla n t tha t pro duce s the fa m ilia r bunche s o f gre e n stalks tha t sha re its na m e. This pla nt is cultiva te d spe cifically for its la rge, round, knobby, and de eply gnarle d root. Also known a s celeriac, ce le ry ro o t is prize d for d e n se , ivory fle sh with a pro nounce d nu tty, e a rthy fla vor tha t e vo ke s ce le ry. It is a t its be st from e a rly autum n through e a rly spring. Pa rticula rly popula r in Fre nch kitche ns, cele ry roo t bake s into sm oo th, swe e t gra tins a nd puré e s. Shre dde d or finely julie nne d, it pairs well with citrus juice s, pa rsley le a ve s, a nd bitte r g re e n s in fre sh sa la d s. It ca n be substitu te d for up to ha lf o f the po ta to e s for a ne w twist on m a she d po ta toe s.

WORKING WITH CELERY ROOT Scrub the celery root w ith a stiff brush under cold running water. Trim the root end. With a sharp paring knife or vegetable peeler, peel away the thick skin as deeply as needed to rem ove any brow ned furroughs. Im m ediately sprinkle the root w ith lem on juice to prevent discoloration. Cut, chop, or shred the hard root using a sharp knife, food processor, m andoline, or grater.

BUYING TURNIPS

RUTABAGAS

Choose turnips and rutabagas ( swedes) that are unblem ished and firm . Choose large roots that are heavy for their size. Baby turnips should be separated from their greens and stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 weeks ( the greens can be saved for cooking separately) . Rutabagas and turnips w ill keep for several weeks in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place.

Turnips

Rutabagas

The se closely rela te d roo ts a re sim ila r in fla vor, use s, a nd a ppe a ra nce. Turnips usually ha ve cre a m y fle she d ivory skin, a nd a purple ca p. Som e va rie tie s a re ca ppe d with gre e n, re d, white, or e ve n bla ck. Ruta ba ga s (also knows a s swe de s) a re ge ne rally bigge r a nd ca n be brown, yellow, or white, with yellow fle sh. The two roo ts ca n be substitute d for e a ch o the r in m ost re cipe s. Ve ry young turnips a re te nde r a nd ha ve a m ild, swe e t fla vor. The firm fle sh o f m a ture turnips a nd ruta ba ga s ha s a strong m usta rdlike ta ste tha t m ellows a nd be com e s swe e te r whe n cooke d. Turnips a nd ruta ba ga s a re ge ne rally be st during the la te a u tum n a nd e a rly win te r. Ro a sting the se ro o ts bring s out their distinctive swe e tne ss. They ca n also be a dde d to soups a nd ste ws, puré e d or m a she d, or bake d into a sim ple side dish.

WORKING WITH TURNIPS

RUTABAGAS

If you have baby turnips, sim ply peel and trim for cooking whole. Mature turnips and rutabagas should be peeled and trim m ed w ith a paring knife, and then sliced or cut into chunks. If m ature turnips have a strong sm ell, blanch for 3 to 5 m inutes to rem ove som e of the harshness. Prepare turnip greens as you would beet greens ( page 85) .

Grated Celery Root Salad

Puréed Celery Root with Chives

Celery Root & Potato Gratin with Thyme

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

1 large egg yolk, at room tem perature

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 Tbsp Dijon m ustard

3 shallots, chopped

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened plus extra for greasing

Salt

2 cloves garlic, chopped

TU BERS

98

1

⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) olive oil

RO O TS



2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) chicken broth 1

1 1⁄2 Tbsp heavy (double) cream 1 tsp chopped tarragon 1

CELERY RO O T

1–2 celery roots (celeriacs), about 1 lb (500 g), peeled and diced

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) heavy

(double) cream Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄2 tsp caraw ay seeds

1 celery root (celeriac), about 1 lb (500 g)

Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 celery roots (celeriacs) peeled, halved, and thinly sliced 2 lb (1 kg) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into thin slices 2 Tbsp chopped fresh thym e

In a large frying pan over m edium heat, m elt

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) heavy (double) cream

2 Tbsp of the butter. Add the shallots and

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) chicken broth

In a bowl, whisk the egg yolk, m ustard, salt,

garlic and sauté until softened, 1–2 m inutes.

and cayenne pepper until w ell blended.

Add the celery root and sauté until softened

Add a little oil and whisk until an em ulsion

and coated w ith the butter, 5 –7 m inutes.

form s then continue to add the oil, a little at

Pour enough broth to cover the celery root

a tim e, beating vigorously after each addition

and cook, uncovered, over m edium heat,

until it is absorbed and the sauce is very

until the celery root is just tender, about

thick. Whisk in the lem on juice and 1 Tbsp

15 m inutes. The broth should alm ost be

of the cream . Add m ore cream if needed

com pletely reduced. Rem ove from the

to achieve a cream y sauce. Season w ith

heat and let cool.

the tarragon and caraway seeds. Set aside.

4 large shallots, thinly sliced

Preheat the oven to 375°F (19 0 °C) . Butter a 14 -inch (35 -cm ) oval gratin dish. Sprinkle half of the shallots on the bottom of the dish and season w ith salt and pepper. Arrange half of the celery root and potato slices on top of the shallots, sprinkle half of the thym e on top, and season w ith salt and pepper. Repeat layering w ith the rem aining

When cool enough to handle, transfer to

shallots, celery root, potatoes, and thym e,

Peel the celery root, rem oving all of the

a blender or food processor and purée until

and season again w ith salt and pepper.

brow n skin. Shred and add about half of the

sm ooth, adding cream if needed. Add the

dressing. Mix well. Add m ore of the dressing

rem aining cream and blend again. Pour

as necessary to coat lightly.

the purée back into a sauté pan over m edium -

Spoon onto plates and serve right away.

low heat. Season w ith the salt and pepper. Heat through, then stir in the rem aining 1 Tbsp butter. Rem ove from the heat, transfer to a serving bowl and serve at once.

Bring the cream and broth to a sim m er in a saucepan and pour over the vegetables. Dot the rem aining 2 Tbsp butter on top and cover tightly w ith alum inum foil. Bake until the vegetables are alm ost tender when pierced w ith a fork, about 35 m inutes. Raise the tem perature to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Press the vegetables dow n with a spatula to an even thickness. Continue to bake, uncovered, until the gratin is golden brow n, about 30 m inutes. Let stand for 5 m inutes before serving. Serve right away.

CELERY ROOT

POTATO GRATIN WITH THYME

TURNIP, APPLE

POTATO SOUP

Turnip, Apple & Potato Soup

Baby Turnips & Turnip Greens

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

101 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 sm all yellow onion, finely diced

1 bay leaf

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 carrots, cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) pieces 1 large parsnip, cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) pieces 1 sm all turnip, cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) pieces

Salt and ground w hite pepper

2 slices bacon, cut crossw ise into pieces 1 ⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

1 lb (500 g) turnips, peeled and cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) chunks

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

2-inch (5-cm ) pieces

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1 sw eet potato, peeled and cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) pieces

2 Tbsp crèm e fraîche

In a heavy pot over m edium -low heat, m elt the butter. Add the onion, thym e, bay leaf, and a pinch of salt and sauté until the onion is tender, about 12 m inutes. Add the turnips,

Leaving the greens on the turnips, trim the

1 red onion, cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) pieces

root ends. If the turnips seem large, cut off

2–3 Tbsp olive oil

the greens, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm ) attached. Cut the greens into 11 ⁄2 -inch (4 -cm ) strips, and halve the turnips. In a large, heavy frying pan over m edium heat, warm 1 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the

Salt



1

⁄4 cup (2 1⁄2 fl oz/ 75 m l) pure m aple syrup

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, m elted Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) .

bacon and cook until the fat has rendered, about 5 m inutes. Pour off the fat, leaving

In a large bow l, toss together the carrots,

the bacon in the pan.

parsnip, turnip, rutabaga, sw eet potato, and onion w ith olive oil to coat. Season

apples, potatoes, a pinch of salt, and 1 cup

Return the pan to m edium -high heat and

( 8 fl oz/ 25 0 m l) water. Cover and sim m er

m elt the rem aining 1 Tbsp olive oil and the

until the vegetables and apples are tender,

butter. Add the shallot, season w ith salt,

10 –15 m inutes. Add 4 m ore cups (32 fl oz/

and sauté for 1 m inute. Add the turnips and

1 l) water, raise the heat to high, and bring

greens, season w ith salt, and pour in just

Roast, shaking the baking sheets occasionally

to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and

enough water to cover the bottom of the

and turning the vegetables w ith a spatula to

sim m er, uncovered, for 20 m inutes.

pan. Cover and cook until both the turnips

keep them from sticking, until they develop

Let cool slightly.

and the greens are tender, 4 –7 m inutes,

a light crust and are tender, 4 0 – 5 0 m inutes.

adding water if the pan dries out. If necessary,

Meanwhile, in a sm all bowl, stir together

uncover and continue to cook until the liquid

the m aple syrup and butter. Brush over the

has reduced. Transfer to a serving bowl and

vegetables and continue roasting until they

season w ith salt and pepper. Season with

look glazed, about 5 m inutes longer.

Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender. Return to the pot and reheat. Thin the soup w ith water if necessary, season w ith the salt and w hite pepper. Ladle into bowls, and garnish w ith the crèm e fraîche, and chopped parsley. Serve right away.

salt and pepper and serve right away.

w ith 2 tsp salt and toss again. Spread the vegetables in a single layer, without touching, on two baking sheets.

Transfer the vegetables to a serving dish and serve right away.

RU TABAGAS

2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

⁄2 rutabaga (sw ede), cut into

TU RN IPS

⁄2 lb (250 g) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper



1

TU BERS

2 tart apples, such as Braeburn, Granny Sm ith, Jonagold, or pippin, peeled, cored, and quartered

RO O TS

1 tsp chopped fresh thym e

1 lb (500 g) baby turnips w ith greens attached, yellow or dam aged leaves rem oved

BUYING RADISHES Regardless of shape, size, or color, radishes should be firm , w ith sm ooth skins and unw ilted green leaves. To ensure freshness, trim away radish greens before storing. Sm all radishes can be kept in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week; large radishes w ill keep for up to 2 weeks.

Radishes Although ra dishe s belong to a single spe cie s o f m usta rd, they com e to m a rke t in a tre m e ndous dive rsity o f size s, sha pe s, a nd colors. In a ddition to the fa m ilia r round re d ra dishe s, the re a re thin white one s, known a s icicle ra dishe s; Ea ste r e gg ra dishe s o f che e rful purple, white, la ve nde r or pink colors; Fre nch bre akfa st ra dishe s with elonga te d, two -tone d re d a nd white roo ts; a nd punge ntly fla vore d bla ck ra dishe s. La rge, wa te rm elon ra dishe s a re so ca lle d be ca u se o f the ir co m bina tio n o f pa le g re e n skin a nd pinkish re d fle sh. Sm all, te nde r ra dishe s a re typically in se a son in spring a nd e a rly sum m e r. La rge r va rie tie s te nd to re a ch their pe ak la te r in sum m e r or autum n. Ra dishe s a re be st e a te n raw in fre sh sala ds, a s a pala te -cle a nsing a ccom pa nim e nt to sa nd wiche s, or sim ply dippe d in sa lt a nd se rve d with butte re d bre a d.

WORKING WITH RADISHES Scrub the radishes under cold running water and trim both ends, unless you are serving them as an hors d’oeuvre; in that case, you m ay want to leave 1 inch (2.5 cm ) of the leaves intact as a pretty garnish. If the radishes are not as crisp as you would like, put them into a bowl of ice water and refrigerate for a few hours to refresh them .

Watermelon Radish Salad with Avocado Vinaigrette

Radish, Fennel & Parsley Salad

Tea Sandwiches with Trout, Radishes & Blue Cheese

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 10 SERVINGS

1 shallot, finely diced

2 fennel bulbs

1 ⁄2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice, plus extra if needed

1 sm all bunch fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, stem s rem oved and leaves m inced

20 thin slices of sandw ich bread, crusts trim m ed

1 ⁄2 Tbsp w hite w ine vinegar

12 radishes, thinly sliced

8 oz (250 g) sm oked trout

Salt

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 avocado, halved lengthw ise, pitted, and diced

2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

1 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) arugula leaves

1 clove garlic, m inced

10 –12 radishes, thinly sliced

104

TU BERS

1

RAD ISH ES

RO O TS



1

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1

⁄2 lb (250 g) soft blue cheese

Salt and freshly ground pepper Spread half of the trim m ed bread slices

2 heads rom aine (cos) lettuce, dark outer leaves cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) pieces

Cut off the feathery tops and stem s from

w ith the blue cheese.

1 w aterm elon radish, thinly sliced

the fennel bulbs and discard. Trim away any

Generously season the sm oked trout w ith

yellow or bruised outer leaves and then

salt and pepper. Divide the trout, radishes,

cut each bulb in half through the stem end.

and arugula evenly am ong the cheese-

Cut out the tough core portion and place

topped slices. Put the rem aining bread

In a sm all bowl, stir together the shallot,

the halves, cut side down, on a work surface.

slices on top and press gently.

11 ⁄2 Tbsp lem on juice, vinegar, and a pinch

Cut the fennel crossw ise into paper-thin

of salt. Gently stir in the avocado, season

slices. Place the slices in a bowl. Mix in the

w ith salt, and let stand for 10 m inutes,

parsley and radishes. Set aside.

stirring occasionally. Whisk in the olive oil

In a sm all bow l, w hisk together the olive

to m ake a vinaigrette.

oil, lem on juice, and garlic. Season w ith salt

In a large bowl, com bine the rom aine,

and pepper to m ake a dressing.

radish, and cilantro. Stir in the vinaigrette

Drizzle the dressing over the salad to

and drizzle over the salad. Toss gently and

coat evenly. Transfer to a serving bow l

season w ith salt and additional lem on juice.

and serve right away.

1

⁄4 cup ( ⁄3 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh 1

cilantro (fresh coriander)

Transfer to individual plates. Serve right away.

FRENCH BREAKFAST RADISHES

RADISHES WITH BUTTER

Origina lly from Sou the rn Fra nce, Fre nch

Trim the root end of 30 radishes and then

bre a kfa st ra dishe s (a lso ca lle d fla m bo or

cut in half. Place in a bowl of ice water for

SEA SALT

D’Avig non ) ra dishe s, ha ve a n e longa te d sha pe

20 m inutes. Pack 1 ⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) room

which give s the m a m ore sle nde r a ppe a ra nce

tem perature unsalted butter into a sm all

tha n re g ula r ra dishe s. The y a re re d in color

ram ekin. Drain the radishes and pat dry with

bu t fa d e to white a t th e ro o t e n d . Th e y a re

paper towels, then arrange on a platter. Serve

a va ila ble a t the m a rke t in spring. Use the m

the radishes accom panied by the butter for

a nytim e ra dishe s a re ca lle d for.

spreading and coarse sea salt for sprinkling. Makes 6–8 servings.

Cut each sandw ich in half on the diagonal, arrange on a platter and serve right away.

WATERMELON RADISH SALAD WITH AVOCADO VINAIGRETTE

Squashes ZUCCHINI

Ma nife sting m a ny colors, size s, a nd sha pe s, the num e rou s squa sh varie tie s are type s of gourds, all of which grow on vine s.

SQUASH BLOSSOMS

Pa ttypan squa sh and zucchini (courge tte s) are appre cia te d for their mild, delicate flesh that lends itself to an array of seasonings.

YELLOW SQUASH

Som e, such a s acorn squa sh, ka bocha squa sh, a nd pum pkin, have dense fle sh tha t be com e s swe e t and cream y when cooke d.

PATTYPAN SQUASH

Na tive to the New World, squa she s were cultiva te d thousands of years ago in Me xico and South Am erica.

ACORN SQUASH BUTTERNUT SQUASH DELICATA SQUASH

Squa she s are generally divide d into two type s: sum m er and winter. Acorn, delica ta, kabocha, and other winter squa she s are allowe d to m a ture until their fle sh is thick and their shells are hard. They tend to have a long shelf life. Zucchini and yellow squa sh, am ong other sum m er varie tie s, have soft, thin skin and m oist fle sh. The se e ds of m any winter varie tie s and the flowers

PUMPKIN KABOCHA SQUASH

of sum m er squa sh are also e dible. Summer squashes are best when young. Look for small specimens e a rly in the sum m e r. Expe ct the wide st se le ction o f win te r squa she s in the autum n and winter.

BUYING ZUCCHINI Select zucchini ( courgettes) that are dark, firm , and heavy for their size. Sm all ones w ill have crisp texture and a sw eet flavor; they becom e softer and m ore bitter as they grow bigger. Store zucchini for up to 3 days w rapped in paper tow els in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Use delicate and highly perishable squash blossom s w ithin 1 day of purchasing.

Zucchini This well-known type o f sum m e r squa sh, zucchini, also calle d courgette, is highly ve rsa tile a nd ha s a delicious, m ild fla vor. Se rve d raw or cooke d, it a ppe a rs in m a ny diffe re nt cuisine s, from its na tive Me xico to Southe rn Europe, the Middle Ea st to Northe rn Asia . The vine ’s la rge, golde n flowe rs a re also e dible ; they ca n be fille d with che e se a nd frie d or cu t in to ribbo n s for soups, pa sta s, a nd om ele ts. In a ddition to the fa m ilia r long, da rk gre e n ve ge ta ble, ne w va rie tie s such a s golde n or round zucchini, known a s Ronde de Nice, a re be com ing incre a singly a vaila ble a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts. Zucchini a re a t their be st during the sum m e r. They a re ide al sauté e d, bake d, roa ste d, or grille d to highlight their delica te te xture, but also take well to sim m e ring in soups, quick-ste a m ing, frying, or ge ntle, slow cooking to bring out their swe e tne ss. Slice d or gra te d raw, zucchini a re e xcelle nt in fre sh sala ds a nd on a ntipa sto pla te s.

WORKING WITH ZUCCHINI There is no need to peel zucchini’s thin, delicate skin; sim ply rinse the squashes, trim the ends, and then slice, chop, or shred as called for in the recipe. Som e recipes call for salting zucchini, especially larger ones, to rem ove excess m oisture. Place it in a colander, sprinkle w ith salt, and let stand for 15 to 30 m inutes.

BUYING YELLOW SQUASH Purchase yellow squashes when sm all for tender, seedless flesh. As they grow, yellow squash becom es firm er and seedier. Yellow squashes should have bright color and feel heavy and firm for their size. Look for sm ooth skins w ith no blem ishes. Store the squashes in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Yellow Squash Te nde r-fle she d, m ild-ta sting yellow squa she s com e in a num be r o f sha pe s, size s, a nd hue s. Som e a re long a nd cylindrical, re se m bling zucchini with a bright le m on tint. The bum py-skinne d crookne ck type usually ha s a pale butte ry color. Round pa ttypa n squa sh ha s a scallope d e dge, he nce its alte rna tive na m e : scallop squa sh. All yellow squa she s re a ch their pe ak during the ho tte st we e ks o f sum m e r. The se ve rsa tile ve ge ta ble s a re a da pta ble to diffe re nt cooking style s a nd cuisine s, m uch like their close cousin the zucchini. Sauté e d in butte r or olive oil, they ca n top pa sta or a ccom pa ny roa ste d m e a t, poultry, or fish. Grilling a nd roa sting brings out their swe e tne ss. They ca n usually be substitute d in re cipe s tha t call for zucchini.

WORKING WITH YELLOW SQUASH Rinse the squashes and trim the ends w ith a sharp knife. Their thin, flavorful skins do not require peeling. Keep sm aller squash whole for roasting. Larger ones can be cut into slices or chunks for grilling or sautéing. If you plan to stuff them , cut yellow squashes in half lengthw ise and hollow each one gently w ith a teaspoon.

Zucchini Carpaccio with Cheese & Pine Nuts

Zucchini-Feta Pancakes Topped with Sour Cream

Baked Zucchini & Tomato Tian

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

1 clove garlic

4 cups (1 lb/ 500 g) grated zucchini (courgettes)

2 Tbsp olive oil, plus m ore for greasing

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 red onion, sliced

ZU CCH IN I

SQ U ASH ES

110

⁄3 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) fresh lem on juice

2

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp baking pow der

3

1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) crum bled feta cheese

2 sm all zucchini (courgettes), about 3⁄4 lb (375 g) total w eight, sliced

1 lb (500 g) zucchini (courgettes), thinly sliced 1 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) arugula (rocket) leaves

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) pine nuts, toasted (page 264) 1

Shaved aged hard cheese, such as Parm esan, for garnish Mash the garlic into a paste w ith a pinch

4 large eggs, separated 1

⁄2 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) thinly sliced green

2 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

1 ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) chicken broth or w ater

1 Tbsp chopped fresh m int 3 Tbsp olive oil

Preheat the oven to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Oil

Sour cream for serving

a shallow 2-qt (2-l) baking dish.

Put the zucchini in a fine-m esh sieve, sprinkle

10 m inutes, then whisk in the olive oil

with 2 tsp salt, and let stand for 15 –30 m inutes.

to m ake a dressing.

Squeeze out any excess liquid. In a bowl, 1

of the dressing. Arrange tw o -thirds of the zucchini on a large platter. Set aside. Put the arugula in a sm all bowl, season w ith

stir together the flour, baking powder, ⁄4 tsp pepper, and 1 tsp salt. In another bowl, stir together the zucchini, feta, egg yolks, green

on top of the zucchini and arrange the rem aining zucchini on and around the greens. Serve right away.

the 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add the onion and sauté slowly until soft, about 10 m inutes. Transfer the onion slices to the baking dish, spreading them evenly over the bottom . Season w ith salt and pepper. Arrange the tom ato and zucchini slices over

m ixture. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites

the onion in alternate rows. Sprinkle with the

to soft peaks. Fold into the zucchini m ixture.

basil and m arjoram and season with salt and

In a frying pan over m edium heat, warm the

pepper. Pour the broth evenly over the top.

olive oil. Drop 4 spoonfuls of batter into the

Cover and bake until the vegetables are

pan and fry the pancakes until crisp, about

bubbling and tender, about 4 0 m inutes.

1 ⁄2 m inutes per side. Transfer to paper towels,

Rem ove from the oven, uncover, and serve

season w ith salt, and keep warm . Add m ore

right away.

1

Sprinkle w ith the pine nuts and cheese.

In a frying pan over m edium heat, warm

onions, parsley, and m int. Stir in the flour

salt, and toss w ith just enough dressing to coat the greens. Scatter the dressed arugula

1 Tbsp m inced fresh basil 1 Tbsp m inced fresh m arjoram

paste and lem on juice. Let stand for

and pepper, and toss w ith three-fourths

⁄4 lb (375 g) plum (Rom a) tom atoes, sliced

(spring) onions

of salt. In a bowl, whisk together the garlic

Put the zucchini in a bowl, season w ith salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper

oil to the frying pan and fry the rem aining batter. Serve topped w ith the sour cream .

SQUASH BLOSSOMS

FRIED SQUASH BLOSSOMS WITH RICOTTA

Im m a ture zucchini (courge tte s) m e a suring

In a bowl, stir together 1 cup ( 8 oz/ 250 g)

and then in flour again, shaking off the

no m ore tha n 2 – 5 inche s (5 –13 cm ) long

whole-m ilk ricotta cheese, 1 ⁄2 Tbsp chopped

excess. Heat canola oil in a deep-sided

turn up a t the m a rke t in the la te spring with

fresh flat-leaf ( Italian) parsley, and 1 Tbsp

frying pan until it reaches 375°F ( 190°C) .

the ir brillia n t ye llow flowe rs still a tta che d.

chopped fresh basil and season with salt and

Fry a few blossom s at a tim e, turning once,

The flowe rs, which a re e dible, ca n be stu ffe d,

pepper. Add to a pastry ( piping) bag fitted with

until golden, 3 – 4 m inutes. Transfer to a

ba tte re d , a n d frie d o r u se d a s a fillin g fo r

a large plain tip. Rem ove the stam ens from

paper towel-lined plate, and keep warm in

om e le ts. Use within 2 4 hours; pla ce the m in

the blossom s. Pipe about 1 Tbsp of the cheese

a 200°F ( 95°C) oven. Allow the oil to return

a sin gle la ye r o n a ba kin g sh e e t lin e d with

m ixture into each blossom . Roll in all-purpose

to 375°F ( 190°C) before adding the next

pa pe r towe ls a nd re frige ra te un til ne e de d.

( plain) flour, then in a bowl of 2 beaten eggs,

batch. Makes 4–6 servings.

BAKED ZUCCHINI

TOMATO TIAN

GRILLED SQUASH TOSSED IN HERB

GARLIC MARINADE

Yellow Squash & Farro Salad

Yellow Squash with Tomato Vinaigrette

Grilled Squash Tossed in Herb & Garlic Marinade

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

113 1 ⁄2 cups (8 oz/ 240 g) farro

1 clove garlic

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

2 Tbsp plus 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1

1 lb (500 g) yellow squash, cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) chunks

2 Tbsp sherry vinegar, or to taste

1

1 sm all cucum ber, about 1⁄2 lb (250 g), peeled and cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) chunks 5 green (spring) onions, cut on the diagonal into 1⁄4 -inch (6-m m ) pieces

11⁄2 tsp sw eet paprika

⁄2 tsp cum in seeds, toasted (page 264) and ground

1

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb (500 g) yellow squash, cut into m atchsticks 1

⁄2 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh flat-leaf (Italian)

1

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄4 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh basil

parsley leaves

1

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄4 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh m int

1

1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) crum bled feta cheese Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the farro and season w ith salt. Reduce the heat to a low boil and cook until tender, 12–15 m inutes. Drain and let cool. M eanw hile, in a large sauté pan over

⁄2 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh cilantro

(fresh coriander) leaves Mash the garlic into a paste w ith a pinch of salt. In a bowl, stir together the garlic paste, tom atoes, the 2 Tbsp vinegar, paprika,

sauté until tender-crisp, 3 – 4 m inutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool.

1 Tbsp each fresh m inced thym e and rosem ary Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 lb (1 kg) assorted sm all squash, such as pattypan, Ronde de Nice, or yellow crookneck, cut in half vertically 1 lb (500 g) baby green zucchini (courgettes), cut in half lengthw ise In a nonreactive bowl, m ix the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, thym e, rosem ary, and 1 ⁄2 tsp each of salt and pepper to m ake a vinaigrette. Reserve half. Brush the squashes w ith the other half. Cover and let stand at room tem perature for 1–2 hours.

cum in, and a pinch of salt. Let stand for

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct

10 m inutes. Stir in the olive oil and season

cooking over m edium -high heat ( page 26 4

w ith salt and pepper to m ake a vinaigrette.

or use a grill pan) . Oil the grill rack. Rem ove

m edium -high heat, warm the 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add the squash, season w ith salt, and

6 bay leaves

In a bowl, com bine the squash, parsley, and cilantro and season w ith salt. Add enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the squash and herbs, and toss gently. Season w ith salt

Mash the garlic into a paste w ith a pinch of

and transfer to a platter. Drizzle w ith any

salt. In a sm all bowl, stir together the garlic

rem aining vinaigrette and serve right away.

the squash from the m arinade and pat dry to rem ove any excess. Grill for 3 – 5 m inutes per side. Arrange on a platter; drizzle the additional m arinade over the top and serve at room tem perature.

and 1 ⁄4 cup lem on juice and let stand for 10 m inutes. Whisk in the rem aining 1 ⁄2 cup oil to m ake a dressing. Put the farro, squash, cucum ber, green onions, basil, m int, and feta in a large bowl. Drizzle w ith the vinaigrette and toss.

PATTYPAN SQUASH

CARAMELIZED SQUASH

Also known a s sca llop squa sh, this pa le

Warm 3 Tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan

ye llow, g re e n, or white squa sh is a bou t

over high heat. Add 11 ⁄2 lb ( 750 g) pattypan

4 inche s (10 cm ) in diam e ter and ha s a ttractive

squashes, cut into wedges 1 ⁄2 inch ( 12 m m )

sca llope d e dge s. Pa ttypa n s a re sim ila r in flavor

thick. Season with salt and sauté until tender,

to ye llo w squ a sh a n d zu cchini (co u rge tte s )

6 – 8 m inutes. Add 2 cloves garlic, chopped,

and can be pre pare d in m ost o f the sam e ways.

and 1 Tbsp chopped fresh m arjoram and sauté

Th e y a re a va ila ble a t th e fa rm e rs’ m a rke t

for 1 m inute. Season with salt and pepper.

in the sum m e r.

Squeeze lem on juice to taste over the top.

Season w ith salt and serve right away.

Makes 4 servings.

YELLO W SQ U ASH

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) fresh lem on juice

peeled, seeded, and finely diced

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) red w ine vinegar

6 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed

SQ U ASH ES

1 clove garlic 1

⁄2 lb (250 g) firm but ripe tom atoes,

BUYING ACORN

BUTTERNUT SQUASHES

Acorn and butternut squashes should be firm and feel heavy for their size. These hard-shelled, w inter squashes keep well and can be stored for several m onths in a cool, dark place if they are com pletely free of cuts or bruises. Once cut, w inter squashes should be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Acorn Squash Butternut Squash Ha rd-skinne d, tough-fle she d winte r squa she s ca n a ppe a r in a n alm ost infinite va rie ty o f colors a nd sha pe s, but all ha ve de nse fle sh a nd a swe e t, slightly nutty fla vor. Two o f the m ost com m on va rie tie s a t m a rke ts a re a corn squa sh a nd butte rnut squa sh. Acorn squa she s a re a bout 6 inche s (15 cm ) in dia m e te r, with a ha rd, ribbe d, da rk g re e n she ll a nd pa le ora nge fle sh. Bu tte rnu t squa she s, identifiable by the round bulb a t one end, have pale beige skin a nd rich, m e a ty, ora nge -yellow fle sh. True to their na m e, winte r squa sh a re m ost re a dily a vaila ble during the cold winte r m onths. Pe rha ps the be st way to e njoy the m is roa sting with oil or butte r a nd pe rha ps a drizzle o f honey or m a ple syrup. Othe r dishe s tha t highlight their swe e t fla vor include cre a m y soups, fille d pa sta s, spicy currie s, a nd long-cooke d ste ws.

WORKING WITH ACORN

BUTTERNUT SQUASHES

Cut long-shaped squash in half lengthw ise using a large, sharp chef ’s knife. Round ones can be m ore easily cut into thick w edges. With a large m etal spoon, scoop out the seeds and strings and discard. If the skin needs to be rem oved before cooking, use a sharp vegetable peeler or paring knife to peel it away carefully.

BUYING PUMPKIN Choose pum pkins that feel solid and heavy. As they age, they dry out and becom e lighter. The skin should be hard, w ith no cracks or soft spots. The hard shells of pum pkins prevent them from spoiling quickly; whole ones w ill keep for 1 m onth when stored in a cool, dry place. Once cut, pum pkins should be w rapped in plastic, refrigerated, and used w ithin 3 or 4 days.

Pumpkin A popula r cold-we a the r m e m be r o f the bo ta nical group o f gourds, pum pkins a re ge ne rally a vaila ble in autum n a nd winte r. They a re round to oblong, with a distinctive ridge d shell, and range in color from pale ivory to a de ep re d-tinge d ora nge. For cooking, a void the la rge, hollow pum pkins bre d for ca rving into ja ck-o’la nte rns. Inste a d, look for swee t, thick-fleshed varie ties cultivated specifically for the kitche n. Known ge ne ra lly a s sug a r pum pkin s, the se include the sm all, ora nge suga r pie ; the pale beige, d e e ply ribbe d che e se pum pkin ; the fla t, vibra n t re d Fre nch pum pkin; a nd the round, heirloom Winte r Lu xury. Pum pkins are in sea son from la te autum n to early winter. Ma ny cooks pre fe r to puré e pum pkins for m aking pie s or ta rts, m uffins or quickbre a ds. Like o the r winte r squa she s, the y a re a lso e xce lle n t cu t in to chunks a nd ro a ste d, braise d, or m a de into soup.

WORKING WITH PUMPKIN The greatest challenge in w orking w ith a pum pkin is cutting it open. Steady the pum pkin on a thick tow el, insert a large, heavy knife near the stem , and cut dow n through the curved side. Always cut away from you. Turn the pum pkin and repeat on the other side. Follow the instructions for Acorn Squash & Butternut Squash ( left) for seeding and peeling.

Butternut Squash Soup with Chipotle

Roasted Squash Purée with Ginger

Acorn Squash & Chorizo Tart

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

1 butternut squash, 2 1⁄2 lb (1.25 kg)

Olive oil for greasing

1 Tbsp canola oil, plus extra for greasing

1 butternut squash, 2 ⁄2 –3 lb (1.25–1.5 kg)

2 slices coarse country bread, cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) cubes

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room tem perature

1 tsp dried sage

1

SQ U ASH ES

116 1

Pastry Dough (page 263), rolled into a 13-inch (33-cm ) round

⁄2 lb (250 g) acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1⁄2-inch (12-m m ) chunks

1

1

⁄2 yellow onion, chopped

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) w hole m ilk

11⁄2 tsp grated fresh ginger

2 Tbsp olive oil Salt 1

BU TTERN U T SQ U ASH

2 sm all dried chipotle chiles

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

3 1⁄2 cups (28 fl oz/ 875 m l) chicken broth Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) .

Salt

⁄4 lb (125 g) Spanish-style chorizo, diced

Lightly oil a baking sheet.

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Lightly

Cut the squash in half lengthw ise. Scrape

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) shredded Monterey jack cheese

oil a baking sheet. Cut the squash in half

out the seeds and any fibers and discard.

1 large egg yolk

lengthw ise. Scrape out the seeds and any

Place the squash halves, cut sides dow n,

fibers and discard. Place the squash halves,

on the baking sheet and bake until easily

Position a rack in the bottom third of the

cut sides dow n, on the baking sheet

pierced with a knife, 35 – 45 m inutes. Rem ove

oven and preheat to 4 0 0˚F (20 0˚C) . Put the

and bake until easily pierced w ith a fork,

from the oven and set aside to cool. When

dough round on a baking sheet lined w ith

35 – 45 m inutes. When cool, scoop out

cool, scoop out the flesh and set aside.

parchm ent ( baking) paper and refrigerate.

the flesh and set aside.

In a sm all saucepan over m edium heat,

Put the squash on a baking sheet, drizzle

In a large saucepan over m edium -high heat,

com bine the butter and m ilk and heat until

w ith 1 Tbsp of the oil, and toss to coat.

warm the oil. Add the bread cubes and dried

the butter m elts, about 1 m inute. Rem ove

Spread in an even layer, season w ith salt,

sage and sauté until the cubes are brow ned,

from the heat.

and roast until alm ost tender, about

Using a ricer or blender, m ash the squash

10 m inutes. Let cool.

until sm ooth. Stir in the m ilk m ixture and

In a frying pan over m edium -high heat,

ginger and season w ith salt and pepper.

warm the rem aining 1 Tbsp oil. Add the

m edium heat and cook, uncovered, until

Transfer to a heavy saucepan and place

chorizo and sauté until lightly brow ned,

the squash is soft, about 30 m inutes.

over low heat until heated through. Spoon

about 2 m inutes. Transfer to paper towels.

1

ACO RN SQ U ASH

a

about 4 m inutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Sauté the onion in the pan until softened, about 5 m inutes. Stir in the squash, chiles, and broth. Bring to a sim m er over

Working in batches, purée the soup in a

into a serving bowl and serve right away.

Pour off all but 11 ⁄2 Tbsp of the fat and return the pan to m edium -high heat. Add

blender. Season w ith salt. Ladle into bowls.

the onion and sauté until tender, about

Add the croutons to each and serve hot.

5 m inutes. Season w ith salt, add the garlic, and cook for 1 m inute. Let cool. Rem ove the dough round from the refrigerator. Spread evenly w ith the onion

DELICATA SQUASH

SQUASH WITH MAPLE BUTTER

m ixture, leaving a 11 ⁄2 -inch (4 -cm ) border.

With g re e n -stripe d ye llow skin a nd ora nge -

Cut a 2 lb (1 kg) delicata squash in half

Evenly distribute the squash and chorizo

ye llow fle sh, the de lica ta squa sh ta ste s sim ila r

lengthwise. Rem ove the seeds and fibers. Cut

and sprinkle w ith the cheese. Fold the edge

to a swe e t po ta to. It is a bout 3 inche s (7.5 cm )

crosswise into slices 1 ⁄2 inch ( 12 m m ) wide,

up and over the filling, form ing loose pleats.

in dia m e te r a nd 6 – 8 inche s (15 –2 0 cm ) long.

place on a baking sheet, and toss with 1 ⁄3 cup

Lightly beat the egg yolk w ith 1 tsp water

Unlike o the r win te r squa she s, you ca n e a t

( 3 fl oz/ 80 m l) vegetable oil. Season with salt,

and brush the border.

the skin o f de lica ta squa sh. Its swe e t fle sh is

and roast in a 450˚F ( 230˚C) oven until alm ost

e xce lle n t co oke d a nd the n puré e d in to a soup

tender, about 10 m inutes. Drizzle with 1 ⁄4 cup

Bake until the crust is brow ned, about

or use d a s a filling for ravioli. It is also delicious

(2 fl oz/ 60 m l) m aple syrup and roast until tender,

30 m inutes. Cut into wedges, and serve.

cu t in to slice s a nd ro a ste d.

about 5 m inutes longer. Makes 4 servings.

ACORN SQUASH

CHORIZO TART

BULGUR PILAF WITH PUMPKIN

RAISINS

Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Sage Cream

Pumpkin Purée with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds

Bulgur Pilaf with Pumpkin & Raisins

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

1 sugar pie pum pkin, about 2 lb (1 kg)

⁄2 cup (2 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) pum pkin seeds (pepitas)

1

119 2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

About 1 lb (500 g) peeled and seeded sugar pie pum pkin, cut into 3⁄4 -inch (2-cm ) cubes

1 tsp ground cinnam on

1 yellow onion, finely diced

1

⁄2 tsp ground cloves

1 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) coarse bulgur

1

⁄2 tsp ground nutm eg

Salt

6-inch (15-cm ) piece fresh ginger, grated

Salt and freshly ground pepper Sage Cream (page 262)

Salt

2 Tbsp golden raisins (sultanas) 1 Tbsp sugar

Preheat the oven to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Spread the pum pkin seeds in a dry frying pan over m edium heat and cook, stirring continuously, until they just begin to darken.

1

⁄4 tsp ground cinnam on

1 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Cut the pum pkin into 2-inch (5 -cm ) chunks.

Transfer to a plate to cool; the seeds w ill

Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

In a heavy frying pan over m edium -high

continue to darken slightly from residual

heat, warm the olive oil. Sauté the pum pkin

In a large saucepan over m edium heat, m elt

heat. Set aside.

and onion until tender and golden brow n,

the butter. Add the onion, carrot, and celery

Place the pum pkin on a baking sheet and

about 8 m inutes. Add the bulgur and

and cook, stirring often, until soft, about

bake until the flesh pulls away from the skin,

11 ⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) water, season

5 m inutes. Add the ginger and garlic and

about 1 hour. Cut the pum pkin in half.

w ith salt, and bring to a boil over high heat.

cook, stirring, about 1 m inute.

Scoop out the seeds and discard. Scoop

Reduce the heat to a sim m er, cover tightly,

Add the pum pkin and broth and bring to

out the flesh and transfer to a blender or

and cook until the bulgur is tender and the

a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat

food processor. Process to a sm ooth purée.

water is absorbed, about 15 m inutes.

to m edium -low, cover partially, and sim m er

Stir in the cinnam on, cloves, nutm eg, and

Stir in the raisins, sugar, and cinnam on and

until tender, about 25 m inutes.

salt. Set aside.

season with salt. Let stand for 5 m inutes. Stir

Working in batches, purée the soup in a

To serve, spoon into bowls and top w ith

in the chopped parsley and serve right away.

blender. Return to the saucepan and season

the toasted pum pkin seeds.

to taste w ith salt and pepper. Reheat over m edium -low heat. Ladle into bowls, drizzle the sage cream on top, and serve right away.

KABOCHA SQUASH

BEEF WITH SQUASH IN CURRY

This squa sh, som e tim e s ca lle d Ja pa ne se

Put 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil and 4 yellow

Add 3 lb (1.5 kg) cooked top round beef cut into

pum pkin, ha s a da rk g re e n skin m a rke d

onions, diced, in a large pot. Season with salt and

cubes, 2 cups ( 12 oz/ 375 g) chopped canned

with pa le g re e n stripe s. The pa le ora nge

sauté until the onions brown, about 20 m inutes.

tom atoes, and 4 cups (32 fl oz/ 1 l) water. Season

fle sh ha s a swe e t fla vor a nd flu ffy te xture

Add 4 cloves garlic, chopped, and 3 Tbsp

with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to

when cooke d. It usually weighs 2 – 3 pounds

m inced fresh ginger and sauté for 1 m inute.

low, cover, and sim m er for about 2 hours. Add

(1–1.5 kg ) a n d m a y be su bstitu te d fo r

Add 1 Tbsp ground toasted (page 264) cum in

1 lb ( 500 g) kabocha squash, halved crosswise,

a corn squa sh in re cipe s. Ka bo cha squa sh

seeds; 2 Tbsp ground toasted ( page 26 4 )

seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) wedges, and

is a va ila ble ye a r-round bu t is be st in

coriander seeds; 2 1 ⁄2 tsp ground turm eric; and

sim m er until tender, about 30 m inutes. Serve with

e a rly a u tum n.

1

Cooked White Rice ( page 262) . Makes 6 servings.

⁄2 tsp red pepper flakes. Sauté for 15 seconds.

PU M PKIN

4 cups (32 fl oz/ 1 l) chicken broth

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

1 sugar pie pum pkin, about 2 lb (1 kg)

1 celery stalk, chopped

2 cloves garlic, m inced

1

SQ U ASH ES

1 yellow onion, chopped

1

Stalks, Shoots Bulbs CELERY

As the se thre e term s sugge st, stalk, shoot, and bulb ve ge table s are those with e dible stem s. All tend to be m ild, though each

FENNEL ASPARAGUS

is characterize d by its own distinctive subtle favor. Like m any ve ge table s, celery, fennel, and a sparagus were first harve ste d in the wild. Celery m ay have be en use d by the ancient Eg yptians, a nd fe nne l m a de a n a ppe a ra nce in Rom a n kitche n s be fore spre a ding we ll be yond Ita ly. Aspa ra g u s like wise origina te d in Europe and is now popular well beyond the continent. In many ways, however, these three vege tables are quite different. Celery, whose ribbe d stalks form in clusters a ttache d to a ba se, is in the parsley fam ily. Fennel bulbs, which stand out for their faintly aniselike flavor, are also in the parsley fam ily. Though fennel stalks and leave s a s well a s se e ds are use d in the kitchen, it is the bulb that is prized. Asparagus, a member of the lily family, grows a s individual spears and ha s a plea santly gra ssy flavor. Of the trio, a sparagus spears m ay be the m ost belove d not only for their culinary use s but be cause they m ark the be ginning of spring a t farm ers’ m arke ts.

BUYING CELERY Look for tightly bunched celery w ith firm , crisp stalks, a pronounced light green color, and healthy-looking green leaves. Avoid any bunches that are lim p, hollow, or brow ned. Store w hole bunches of celery in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Celery Ne a rly e ve ry re frige ra tor contains de pe nda ble cele ry, a nd coun tle ss re cipe s list it a s a n ing re die n t. It is indispe nsa ble in Fre nch m irepoix, the a rom a tic ba se for num e rous stocks a nd sauce s. The pale gre e n, e ve ryday va rie ty with fe a the ry le a ve s is calle d Pa scal cele ry. Asia n cele ry ha s num e rous, long, thin stalks tha t bra nch into la rge le a ve s re se m bling pa rsley. It ha s a slightly m ore a sse rtive fla vor tha t holds up to stir-frying a nd pickling. The te nde r, light-colore d ribs a t the ce nte r, com m only re fe rre d to a s the he a rt, a re sm alle r, m ilde r in fla vor, a nd m ore te nde r in te xture tha n the oute r ribs. Cele ry, a vaila ble all ye a r long, re a che s its pe ak fla vor during winte r. Enjoy it fre sh in sala ds or with sa vory dips. Chop a nd a dd to sala ds, stocks, a nd soups, or braise the stalks ge ntly a s a n a ppe tize r or side dish. Use the le a ve s, m uch like pa rsley, a s ga rnish on sa vory dishe s.

WORKING WITH CELERY Separate ribs from the bunch only as needed. Wash them thoroughly and trim off both ends. With few exceptions, new celery varieties are m ore tender and do not require the rem oval of tough strings from the ribs. If you find strings, run a vegetable peeler dow n the length of the stalk to rem ove them . Refresh lim p celery ribs w ith a 30 -m inute soak in ice water.

BUYING FENNEL Choose fennel bulbs that are sm ooth and tightly layered, w ith no cracks or bruises. Fat, rounded bulbs that are white and pale green w ill tend to be m ore succulent than narrow or yellow ones. Avoid any w ith dried stalks or w ilted fronds. Keep fennel bulbs w ith the stalks and fronds intact, in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Fennel Also known a s swe e t fe nnel or finocchio (a nd som e tim e s m isla be le d a s “swe e t a nise ”), this a ro m a tic ve ge ta ble is the swolle n, im m a ture ste m o f a la rge, fe a the ry bush. The young stem s of the plant overlap a t the ba se to form a bulb with white to pale gre e n ribbe d laye rs. Origina ting in the Me dite rra ne a n, the fe nnel bulb is popula r in Italia n a nd Sca ndina via n cuisine s. Alth ough the sta lks a re sim ila r to ce le ry bo th in the ir a ppe a ra nce a nd in the ir crunchy te xture, all pa rts o f the pla nt ha ve a ple a sa ntly swe e t, a nise -like fla vor. Fe nnel is a bunda nt during the autum n a nd winte r m onths. It ca n be se rve d raw, sha ve d thinly a s a sala d or cut into spe a rs for dipping. Grilling or roa sting until the la ye rs ca ra m e lize highligh ts its swe e tne ss, a nd pa iring with sa u sa ge , sa lum i, or se a fo o d is a cla ssic way to pre pa re it in a ppe tize rs, soups, a nd pa sta s.

WORKING WITH FENNEL To trim fennel, cut away the green stem s and fronds, saving the latter for garnish, if desired. Rem ove and discard the outer layer of the bulb, trim any discolored areas, cut the bulb in half lengthw ise, and rem ove the base of the core if it is thick and solid. Rinse well to rem ove any grit between them .

Celery & Rice Soup with Parsley

Celery, Parsley & Prosciutto Salad

Braised Celery with Lemon

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

6 stalks celery, thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 lb (1 kg) celery

1 yellow onion, finely diced

1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced, preferably w ith a m andoline

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375) chicken broth

BU LBS

124

1

⁄2 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) finely chopped celery

1 sm all bay leaf Salt

STALKS SH O O TS



s

6 cups (48 fl oz/ 1.5 l) chicken broth 1

1 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 1

⁄4 cup ( ⁄3 oz/ 10 g) sm all fresh m int leaves 1

1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) finely diced yellow onion

1–2 Tbsp unsalted butter Salt and freshly ground pepper 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) dry w hite w ine

1–2 tsp fresh lem on juice

2 Tbsp finely chopped pale green celery leaves

Salt and freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

curved edges of the celery stalks. Cut the

2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice, or to taste

bottom off the celery and wash the stalks.

6 thin slices prosciutto

Cut the stalks into sections about 4 inches

1

CELERY

⁄3 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) long-grain w hite rice

4 green (spring) onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

In a heavy pot over m edium heat, m elt the

Shaved hard sheep’s m ilk cheese, such as Pecorino rom ano

Rem ove any tough outer strings along the

(10 cm ) long, discarding any of the sm aller white stalks in the m iddle. In a frying pan over m edium -high heat,

butter. Reduce the heat to m edium -low, and sauté the onion, celery, bay leaf, and

Put the celery, fennel, green onions, parsley,

com bine the broth and onion. Bring to

a pinch of salt until the onion and celery

and m int in a bowl and season w ith salt and

a boil, reduce the heat to m edium -low,

are tender, about 15 m inutes. Add the

pepper. Drizzle w ith the olive oil and the

and sim m er until reduced to half, about

broth and bring to boil. Reduce the heat

2 Tbsp lem on juice and toss gently. Season

5 m inutes. Add the butter and salt and

to low, add the rice, and sim m er until tender,

w ith salt and m ore lem on juice, if desired.

stir until the butter m elts. Add the celery

about 20 m inutes. Season w ith salt.

Place the prosciutto on a serving platter and

pieces, cover, and sim m er until tender,

top w ith the fennel m ixture. Garnish w ith

20 –25 m inutes. Transfer to a platter,

the shaved cheese and serve at once.

leaving the liquid in the pan.

In a bowl, stir together the celery leaves, parsley, and olive oil. Season w ith salt. Ladle the soup into warm ed bowls, garnish with the parsley m ixture, and serve right away.

Add the w ine and lem on juice to the liquid in the pan and return to m edium -high heat, and boil until thick, 2–3 m inutes. Season w ith salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the celery and serve right away.

CELERY, PARSLEY

PROSCIUTTO SALAD

ROASTED FISH STUFFED WITH FENNEL

FRESH HERBS

Shaved Fennel Salad with Citrus Dressing

Olive Oil–Braised Fennel with Lemon

Roasted Fish Stuffed with Fennel & Fresh Herbs

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

127 4 fennel bulbs, about 2 lb (1 kg)

2 Tbsp fresh orange juice

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 fennel bulbs, trim m ed and thinly sliced crossw ise

1 tsp ground fennel seeds

Shaved aged hard cheese, such as Parm esan, for garnish

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lem on peel, 2 inches (5 cm ) long 2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

In a sm all bowl, whisk together the olive oil, Cut off the stalks and feathery fronds

to m ake a dressing.

from the fennel bulbs; discard the stalks.

2 Tbsp chopped fresh thym e Salt and freshly ground pepper Pinch of red pepper flakes 3 sea bass, 11⁄2 –2 lb (750 g–1 kg) each, cleaned Olive oil for drizzling and serving Lem on w edges for serving

Chop the feathery fronds to m easure Place the fennel slices in a bowl and drizzle w ith the dressing. Toss to com bine and shavings. Serve at once.

Preheat the oven to 5 0 0˚F (26 0˚C) .

outer leaves from the bulb and discard. Cut

Coarsely chop the fennel fronds and m easure

each bulb into quarters lengthw ise and trim

about 1 ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) . In a bowl, toss

away the tough core portions.

together the sliced fennel, half of the chopped

In a large saucepan over m edium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook,

fronds, and thym e. Season w ith salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes and m ix well.

stirring, for 1 m inute. Add the fennel quarters

M ake 3 diagonal slices about 1 ⁄2 inch

and the fennel seeds. Season w ith salt and

(12 m m ) deep on each side of fish. Season

pepper. Cook, uncovered, stirring, until the

each side w ith salt and pepper. Stuff the

fennel begins to soften, about 5 m inutes.

cavities w ith the fennel m ixture and secure

Reduce the heat to m edium -low, add 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 50 0 m l) water and the lem on peel, cover, and cook until the fennel is tender, 20 –25 m inutes.

w ith toothpicks. Scatter the rem aining fennel fronds on a sturdy baking sheet, place the fish on top, and drizzle w ith olive oil. Roast the fish until the flesh flakes easily when lightly pressed, about 15 m inutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fennel

Transfer to a platter along w ith juices from

to a serving platter and keep warm . Raise

the pan. Discard the fronds on the baking

the heat to high and cook until only 3 ⁄4 cup

sheet. Rem ove the toothpicks. Serve right

( 6 fl oz/ 18 0 m l) liquid rem ains, about

away, passing the olive oil and lem on

5 m inutes. Discard the lem on peel.

wedges at the table.

Add the lem on juice, then season w ith salt and pepper. Drizzle the sauce over the fennel and sprinkle w ith the fennel fronds. Serve right away.

FEN N EL

place on salad plates. Garnish w ith cheese

1 Tbsp and set aside. Rem ove any dam aged



BU LBS

orange juice and 1⁄2 tsp each salt and pepper

2 fennel bulbs, fronds reserved, bulbs thinly sliced crossw ise, preferably w ith a m andoline

STALKS SH O O TS

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

BUYING ASPARAGUS Choose firm stalks w ith tight, dry, tips w ith a slight purple tinge. Avoid those that are soft or broken. The ends of the stem s should be fresh and m oist. Asparagus is best when very fresh, so use soon after purchasing. If storing is needed, cut 1 inch (2 .5 cm ) off the stalks at the base and set the bunch upright in a container w ith a shallow layer of water for up to 4 days.

Asparagus The se crisp-te nde r spe a rs a re the young shoo ts o f a fa st-growing, pe re nnial bush. They ca n be pe ncil thin or a s thick a s a thum b; bo th ha ve their de vo te d followe rs. Most a spa ra gus is gra ssy gre e n in color, with purplish tips, but white a spa ra gus, belove d in Europe, is be com ing incre a singly popula r. It re tains a pale, ivory-yellow color and delica te flavor when kept care fully covere d to prote ct the growing stalks from sunlight. The re is also a purple va rie ty, which turns gre e n whe n cooke d a nd te nds to be a little swe e te r tha n re gula r a spa ra gus. Am o ng the m a rke t’s fa vorite ha rbinge rs o f wa rm ing we a the r, a spa ra gus is m ost delicious during the e a rly spring. It le nds itself to ne a rly all type s o f cooking, from ste a m ing to sa u té ing , ro a sting to g rilling. Ra w spe a rs ca n be e a te n fre sh out o f ha nd or slice d for sala ds.

WORKING WITH ASPARAGUS Gently bend the stem of several spears to find their natural breaking point, or w here they leave their tenderness and becom e tough. The rem aining spears can be trim m ed to sim ilar lengths. If the spears are thick and have fibrous skin, use a vegetable peeler to pare it away from the stalks to w ithin about 1 inch (2.5 cm ) of the tips.

Asparagus Omelet with Chives & Garlic

Grilled Asparagus with Rosemary Oil & Parmesan

Spaghetti with Roasted Asparagus & Cream

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

130 1

⁄2 lb (250 g) thin asparagus spears,

BU LBS

tough ends rem oved 4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil 2 shallots, finely chopped 8 fresh chives, snipped

1

⁄2 tsp chopped rosem ary

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt 2–2 1⁄2 lb (1–1.25 kg) asparagus, tough ends rem oved

⁄2 lb (250 g) asparagus spears, tough ends rem oved

1

1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lb (500 g) dried spaghetti

STALKS SH O O TS



2 cloves garlic, m inced 5 large eggs

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) heavy (double) cream

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parm esan

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a sm all bowl, m ix together the chopped rosem ary and the olive oil. Cover and let



ASPARAGU S

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) freshly grated Parm esan cheese 1

Position a rack in the upper third of the

sit for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (2 20 °C) . Place

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct

the asparagus on a large baking sheet, drizzle

grilling over high heat ( page 26 4 or use

w ith the olive oil and a pinch each of salt

a stovetop grill pan) . Oil the grill rack.

and pepper. Roast in the oven until tender,

oven and preheat to 325°F (18 0 °C) . Cut the asparagus into 1-inch (2.5 -cm ) pieces. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil, add the asparagus, and parboil for

8 –10 m inutes. When cool enough to

3 m inutes. Drain, rinse w ith cold running

Bring a w ide, shallow saucepan of salted

water, drain again, and pat dry.

water to a boil. Add the asparagus and boil

handle, cut the asparagus into 11 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) pieces. Set aside.

until tender but still crisp, 2– 4 m inutes. Drain In a m edium frying pan over low heat, warm 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Add the shallots

and im m erse in a bowl of ice water. When

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

cool, drain and pat dry w ith a kitchen towel.

Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente,

and sauté until softened, about 8 m inutes.

10 –12 m inutes or according to the package

Add the chives, garlic, and asparagus and

Put the spears on a baking sheet and

sauté until the asparagus is tender, about

drizzle evenly w ith the rosem ary oil

2 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat.

and season w ith salt.

In a bow l, w hisk the eggs until blended.

Grill the asparagus ( if using a grill, take

Add the asparagus m ixture and season

care to place them across the bars so they

w ith salt and pepper.

don’t fall into the fire) until they blister,

In an 8 -inch (20 -cm ) ovenproof nonstick frying pan, warm the rem aining 2 Tbsp olive

Transfer to a platter and sprinkle w ith

oil over m edium -high heat. Add the egg

the cheese. Serve right away.

Cook until the eggs are set around the edges, 5 –7 m inutes. Transfer to the oven and cook until set, 7– 9 m inutes. Let cool briefly. Invert the om elet onto a large plate. Cut into wedges and serve right away.

the em pty pot. While the pasta is cooking, in a m edium

1–2 m inutes on each side.

m ixture and reduce the heat to m edium .

directions. Drain and return the pasta to

saucepan over m edium heat, heat the cream until it reduces by half and thickens slightly, 8 –10 m inutes. Stir in half of the cheese, and 1 tsp of pepper. Rem ove from the heat. Add the cream to the pot w ith the pasta and stir in the asparagus. Place the pot over m edium heat just to warm the pasta. Transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle w ith the rem aining cheese and season w ith salt and pepper. Serve right away.

GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH ROSEMARY OIL

PARMESAN

Onions ONIONS

Cousins

Onion s a nd the ir re la tive s a re a ll m e m be rs o f the ge nu s Allium , a nd a ll ha ve a n e m pha tic fla vor tha t provide s a n e sse n tia l ba se

SW EET ONIONS GARLIC

for m a ny sa vory dishe s. Punge n t whe n ra w, onion s a nd ga rlic will so fte n a nd swe e te n during co oking. Ve ge ta ble s re la te d to to day’s onion va rie tie s m ay da te ba ck se ve ra l m ille nnia ,

GREEN GARLIC LEEKS

be fore the de velopm ent of ancient Eg yptian, Gre ek, and Rom an civiliza tion s. Ga rlic, possibly pre da ting onion s, ca n be tra ce d ba ck to the Asia n con tine n t.

GREEN ONIONS

Onion a nd ga rlic fa ll in to lo ose ca te gorie s. Globe onion s, a na m e tha t de scribe s the ir sha pe, a re m a ture spe cim e n s ra nging in color from white to re d. Som e a re sha rp in fla vor; o the rs a re swe e t. Gre e n onion s, a lso known a s spring onion s or sca llion s, a re a ctua lly the young sho o ts o f a bulb onion. Ga rlic a lso ta ke s two prim a ry form s: the fa m ilia r bulb or he a d a nd g re e n ga rlic, a sho o t tha t is ha rve ste d be fore the ga rlic pla n t be gin s to de ve lop clove s. Le e ks re se m ble ve ry plum p g re e n onion s bu t a re m uch m ilde r by com pa rison. Spring is the tim e to find g re e n ga rlic a t m a rke ts. It is a lso whe n le e ks a re a t the ir be st, te nde r a nd pa rticula rly swe e t. Globe onion s a nd ga rlic a re be st in the sum m e r.

BUYING ONIONS Choose fresh onions w ith tight, sm ooth peels that are dry and papery. Avoid any w ith soft spots or m old, particularly at the stem end. Also avoid those w ith green shoots, as they are old and lack flavor. Store onions in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place. Do not keep onions in plastic bags, as collected m oisture w ill spoil them quickly.

Onions Since first g rown by the a ncie n t Eg yptia n s, this m ultilaye re d bulb ha s be com e a sta ple in ne a rly e ve ry cuisine. The re a re two ba sic type s: gre e n, or spring, onions a nd drie d, or globe, onions. Fre sh onions include gre e n onions a nd such swe e t onions a s Vidalia, Walla Walla, a nd Maui. Pe rha ps the m ost com m on all-purpose onion is the fa m ilia r yellow globe onion. Othe r drie d type s include m ild re d onions; pink or purple shallo ts; strongly fla vore d white onions; sm all, fla t cipolline onions; a nd tiny pe a rl onions. Onions mature from early to late summer, though they may be ha rve ste d e a rly for their shoo ts or for sm alle r, te nde r bulbs. Sauté e d in oil until so ft, onions a re the founda tion o f countle ss sa vory dishe s a round the world. Cooke d slowly until caram elize d, they can be highlighte d in soups, fla tbre a d s, a nd sa vory sauce s. They a re also delicious bre a de d a nd frie d, grille d, a nd braise d.

WORKING WITH ONIONS To m inim ize the sulfurous odor, peel onions dow nward from the stem end and chop them w ith a sharp knife. Som e claim that refrigerating onions for about 30 m inutes before cutting lessens their harsh vapors. Cut all onions as close to cooking or serving tim e as possible, as their flavor deteriorates while their arom a intensifies w ith tim e.

BUYING GARLIC Choose plum p garlic heads w ith sm ooth, firm cloves and cream y w hite to purple-tinged skin. Pass up those w ith soft, w ithered spots or green sprouts. Whole garlic heads keep well when stored in an open container in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place for up to 2 m onths.

Garlic Ga rlic, like the onion, is a punge nt m e m be r o f the Allium , or lily, bo ta nical group. Ea ch bulb o f ga rlic consists o f 12 to 16 clove s tightly clustere d and wrappe d with papery white skin. The va rie ty known a s Artichoke Ga rlic is the la rge, white he a d s m ost com m only a vaila ble. The Purple Stripe, nam e d for the bright, vertical streaks on the bulb's wra pping, ha s a rich fla vor tha t take s well to roa sting. Othe r va rie tie s include Silve rskin, with a strong, spicy flavor; vividly rose -colore d and m odera tely pungent Cre ole com m on to the Am e rica n South; a nd the highly re ga rde d Roca m bole tha t de velops strong, rich fla vors in the colder regions where it grows. Elephant garlic, with heads a s large a s orange s and a flavor tha t is surprisingly m ild, is a ctually a va rie ty o f le e k. Ga rlic ha rve ste d during the m iddle o f the sum m e r will be the fre she st a nd m ost fla vorful tha t com e to m a rke t.

WORKING WITH GARLIC Garlic added to long cooking braises and roasts should be left in large pieces. Minced garlic has a hot, m ore volatile flavor that w ill disperse quickly. Crushing garlic w ill release m uch m ore of its arom atic oils. Cooking in oil w ill bring out its flavor, but avoid scorching, as it w ill develop unpleasantly bitter flavors.

Fried Onion Rings with Aioli

Grilled Marinated Red Onions

Sweet & Sour Onions

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

6 large red onions, cut into slices 3 ⁄4 inch (2 cm ) thick

1 lb (500 g) red and w hite onions, root and stem ends trim m ed

4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 ⁄2 Tbsp balsam ic vinegar

3

1 tsp chopped fresh thym e

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) plus 2 Tbsp red w ine vinegar

136 Canola oil for deep-frying 1 large yellow onion, sliced ⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

CO U SI N S

1

⁄3 cup (3 ⁄2 oz/ 105 g) all-purpose (plain) flour 2

1

11⁄2 cups (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) panko bread crum bs

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) dry red w ine

1

O N IO N S

o

Coarse salt 2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) Aioli (page 139)

O N IO N S

2 bay leaves

Grated zest of 1 lim e Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct grilling over high heat ( page 26 4) or use a stovetop grill pan. Oil a grill rack.

11⁄2 Tbsp sugar Salt 1

Brush each onion slice on both sides

⁄4 tsp red pepper flakes

Pour oil into a deep, heavy saucepan to a

w ith 1 Tbsp olive oil.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil,

depth of 2 inches (5 cm ) and heat to 375°F

In a bowl, whisk together the rem aining

add the onions, and cook for 1 m inute.

(19 0 °C) on a deep -frying therm om eter.

3 Tbsp olive oil, vinegar, thym e, and salt

Drain and peel while warm . In a frying pan

Preheat the oven to 25 0 °F (120 °C) . Line

and pepper to taste to m ake a dressing.

over m edium -high heat, wam the olive oil.

a baking sheet w ith paper towels.

Grill the onions until golden on the first

Add the onions and sauté until brow ned, about 4 m inutes. Set aside.

Separate the onion slices into rings. In a

side, 5 – 6 m inutes. Turn and continue to

bowl, whisk together 2 ⁄3 cup (5 fl oz/ 16 0 m l)

grill until tender and golden on the second

In a bowl, com bine the red w ine, vinegar,

water and the flour until sm ooth. Spread

side, 5 – 6 m inutes m ore.

bay leaves, sugar, 2 tsp salt, red pepper

the panko on a plate. When the oil is hot, dip the onion rings, 4 –5 at a tim e, into the batter. Lift out, let the excess batter drip off, and then dip into the panko. Fry the rings, turning them once,

Transfer to a platter and drizzle w ith the vinaigrette. Serve right away. Serve grilled onions alongside herb-seasoned grilled steak. For 4 servings, use 1 1⁄4 lb (20 oz/ 625 g) sirloin, about 1 1⁄2 inches (4 cm) thick.

until golden, 1–2 m inutes. Transfer to the

flakes, and 3 ⁄4 cup ( 6 fl oz/ 18 0 m l) water. Add the w ine m ixture to the onions and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and sim m er, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender, about 15 m inutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and discard the bay leaves. Serve right away.

lined baking sheet and place in the heated oven. Repeat until all the rings are cooked.

Serve these onions as a companion to roasted or grilled meats or poultry.

Transfer the rings to a platter and sprinkle w ith the lim e zest, 1 tsp salt, and cilantro. Serve right away w ith aioli.

SWEET ONIONS

ONION MARMALADE

Swe e t onions are cousins to the com m on onion

In a large frying pan over m edium heat,

1 0 m inutes. Let cool, then stir in 1 ⁄4 cup

bu t h a ve a high e r wa te r a n d su g a r co n te n t

warm 1 ⁄3 cup ( 3 fl oz/ 80 m l) olive oil. Add

( 3 oz/ 9 0 g) honey, 1 ⁄2 cup ( 2 oz/ 6 0 g)

re su ltin g in a swe e te r fla vo r. Th e ir u n iqu e

6 thinly sliced sweet onions, 6 cloves chopped

grated Parm esan cheese, and 3 Tbsp

ta ste com e s from be ing ha rve ste d in fe rtile,

garlic, and 2 ⁄3 cup ( 2 1 ⁄2 oz/ 7 5 g) chopped

chopped fresh rosem ary. Season with salt

low-sulfur soils. Mo st no ta ble va rie tie s a re the

pecans. Cook, stirring, until the m ixture begins

and pepper. Serve as an accom panim ent

Wa lla Wa lla fro m Wa shin g to n, Vid a lia fro m

to caram elize, about 30 m inutes. Stir in 1 ⁄2 cup

to grilled or roasted chicken or steak.

Ge o rg ia , a n d Ma u i fro m Ha wa ii. Th e y a re

( 4 fl oz/ 125 m l) chicken broth, 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/

Makes 6 servings.

de liciou s g rille d, de e p-frie d, or ba ke d. Lo ok

60 m l) balsam ic vinegar, and 1 Tbsp bourbon

for the m a t the m a rke t in spring a nd sum m e r.

and cook until the liquid evaporates, about

SWEET

SOUR ONIONS

GARLIC AIOLI WITH GARDEN VEGETABLES

Garlic Aioli with Garden Vegetables

Roasted Garlic–Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes

Shrimp Sautéed in Garlic-Sherry Oil

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

139 8 cloves garlic, unpeeled

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

3 Tbsp olive oil

6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 large eggs

1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh rosem ary

Pinch of red pepper flakes

2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

3 starchy potatoes, peeled or unpeeled, cut into 2-inch (5-cm ) chunks

11⁄4 lb (625 g) shrim p (praw ns), peeled and deveined

1 tsp Dijon m ustard



⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) unsalted butter

1

⁄4 lb (375 g) slender asparagus spears,

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) w hole m ilk

Salt and freshly ground pepper

tough ends rem oved, blanched (page 264)

11⁄2 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C) . Place the garlic cloves in a baking dish, drizzle

In a large frying pan over m edium -high

8 –10 each sm all carrots, blanched (page 264) and sm all w axy potatoes, halved and blanched (page 264)

w ith 2 Tbsp olive oil and sprinkle w ith the

heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and

rosem ary. Cover w ith alum inum foil and

red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for

bake until soft, 35 – 4 0 m inutes. Rem ove

15 seconds. Add the shrim p and cook,

1 bunch radishes

from the oven and, when cool enough to

stirring, about 3 m inutes. Add the sherry

6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and quartered

handle, squeeze the garlic from the sheaths

and continue to cook until reduced by half,

into a bowl. Mash w ith a fork. Stir in the

about 1 m inute. Season with salt and pepper.

rem aining 1 Tbsp of the oil and set aside.

Transfer to a serving dish and garnish w ith

Place the potatoes in a saucepan and add

the parsley. Serve right away.

1 baguette, cut into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick Blend the garlic and 1 ⁄2 tsp salt in a blender.

water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook,

Add the raw eggs, lem on juice, and m ustard

uncovered, until tender when pierced w ith

and blend again. With the m otor running,

a fork, about 10 –12 m inutes. Just before the

slowly pour in the olive oil and blend until

potatoes are ready, in a sm all saucepan over

the m ixture thickens to the consistency

low heat, warm the butter and m ilk until the

of m ayonnaise. Cover and refrigerate until

butter is m elted. Drain the potatoes, transfer

ready to serve.

to a bowl, and m ash w ith a fork or potato

Serve the aioli on a platter with the blanched

m asher. Add the m ilk m ixture and stir until

vegetables, radishes, hard-cooked eggs, and

sm ooth. Mix in the garlic and season w ith

baguette slices for dipping.

salt and pepper.

GREEN GARLIC

GARLIC SOUP

Ha rve ste d ju st be fore the ga rlic pla n t

Melt 1 Tbsp unsalted butter in a heavy pot over

bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and

be gin s to form clove s a nd a va ila ble in the

m edium heat. Add 3 ⁄4 lb ( 375 g) green garlic,

sim m er, covered, until the potatoes are soft,

sprin g a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts, g re e n g a rlic

trim m ed of dark green parts and chopped;

about 20 m inutes. Let cool. Working in batches,

re se m ble s la rge g re e n onion s with a tinge

1

purée the soup in a blender. Strain into a clean

o f pink a t the bulb. Gre e n ga rlic, which

a pinch of salt. Reduce the heat to low, cover,

pot. Stir in 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/ 60 m l) heavy ( double)

ha s a m ilde r fla vor tha n re g ula r ga rlic, is

and sim m er until tender, about 12 m inutes.

cream and 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar and

delicious in soups, sauce s, and with roa ste d

Add 1 1 ⁄2 lb ( 750 g) waxy potatoes, peeled and

reheat. Season to taste. Ladle into bowls,

ve ge ta ble s. It ca n be store d in a pla stic

quartered; 7 1 ⁄2 cups ( 60 fl oz/ 1.9 l) m ore broth;

and garnish with crèm e fraîche and chopped

ba g in the re frige ra tor for up to 4 da ys.

and a pinch of salt. Raise the heat to high and

fresh chervil. Makes 6–8 servings.

⁄2 cup ( 4 fl oz/ 125 m l) chicken broth; and

GARLIC

⁄2 lb (250 g) green beans, trim m ed and blanched (page 264)

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) dry sherry

CO U SIN S

1

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) olive oil 3

ON ION S

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

BUYING LEEKS Choose the sm allest leeks available w ith dark green tops that are crisp, firm , and free of blem ishes. Make sure that the roots are light in color and still pliable. The roots m ay be full of sandy soil, which can be rinsed away before use. Avoid darkened, dried roots or w rinkled, w ilted tops. Store leeks in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Leeks Re se m bling gia nt gre e n onions, le e ks ha ve bright white cylindrical stalks a nd long, ove rla pping gre e n le a ve s. Na tive to the Me dite rra ne a n re gion a nd e sse ntial to Fre nch cuisine, the le e k is one o f the m ilde r m e m be rs o f the onion fa m ily. A pa rticula rly prize d rela tive o f the le e k, ga the re d in spring, is the wild le e k, known a s a ra m p, which ha s a strong oniony fla vor. Diffe re nt va rie tie s o f le e ks com e into se a son a t diffe re nt tim e s, with som e cultiva rs pla nte d in spring for autum n harve st and others (generally larger and stronger in flavor) grown a s a n ove rwinte ring va rie ty for spring ha rve st. Gentle cooking pre serve s their delica te te xture and flavor, a nd they a re the sta r in quiche s, soups, sala d s, a nd side dishe s with po ta toe s or rice. Ve ry young le e ks ca n also be ha rve ste d a s shoo ts a nd use d raw m uch like chive s.

WORKING WITH LEEKS Because leeks are grow n partly underground, grit often lodges between the layers of the leaves, so they m ust be rinsed well before cooking. Trim off the roots and the dark green tops. Halve the leeks lengthw ise, leaving the root ends intact for cooking whole, and rinse thoroughly under cold running water while separating the layers to rem ove all grit.

BUYING GREEN ONIONS The tops of green (spring) onions should be vibrant green in color. They should look fresh and feel firm , not w ilted or slim y. The bulb ends should be w hite. Avoid dried roots or bruised, wet bulbs. Store green onions in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Green Onions Also known a s scallions, m ild-fla vore d gre e n (spring ) o nio n s a re the im m a ture sh o o ts o f the bulb o nio n . They ha ve a na rrow white ste m tha t ha s no t ye t be gun to swell a nd long, fla t gre e n le a ve s. Although gre e n o nio n s a re o fte n e qua te d with spring o nio n s, the la tte r a re a ctua lly im m a ture white o r re d o nio n s a nd ha ve a slightly swolle n white or re d ba se. Sim ila r in fla vor, the two a re inte rcha nge a ble. Gre e n onions ca n be ha rve ste d ye a r round in m ild clim a te s. Re cipe s o fte n spe cify which pa rt o f the onion should be used: the white stem, the green leaves, or both. The m ild e r bite o f g re e n o nio n s ble nd s we ll in dishe s where raw onion would be too strong, such as scram bled eggs or om ele ts, sa nd wich filling s, o r sa vo ry sa la d s. In Asia , the brigh t green leaves com m only garnish soups and dipping sauces.

WORKING WITH GREEN ONIONS Rinse the green onions thoroughly to rem ove any sand or grit from the layers. Trim off the root ends and green tops from the onions. Using your fingers, peel off the outer layer of the bulb. Plan to use green onions as soon as they are cut, as they w ill quickly begin to oxidize and lose their flavor.

Grilled Leeks with Romesco Sauce

Green Onion Pancakes

Savory Leek & Gruyère Soufflé

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

6 slender leeks, each 3⁄4–1 inch (2–2.5 cm ) in diam eter

2 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus 5 Tbsp (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) cold unsalted butter

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) boiling w ater

2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) grated Gruyère cheese

1 Tbsp chopped fresh thym e

3 Tbsp sesam e oil

2 Tbsp olive oil

Rom esco Sauce (page 262)

Coarse salt

Trim the leeks, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm )

1 ⁄4 cups (3 ⁄4 oz/ 110 g) chopped green (spring) onion tops

4 leeks, about 11⁄2 lb (750 g) total w eight, trim m ed and chopped

CO U SI N S

142

1

O N IO N S

l

of the tender green tops intact. Halve each leek lengthw ise, rinse thoroughly under cold running water, and dry well w ith paper

GREEN O N IO N S

towels. Brush with the olive oil, then sprinkle

LEEKS

l

w ith half of the thym e.

3

Canola oil for frying

in the center. Pour the boiling water into the well. Using a wooden spoon, quickly work the water into the flour to m ake a fairly stiff,

grilling over high heat ( page 26 4) or use

but not dry, dough. Knead lightly in the bowl

a stovetop grill pan. Oil the grill rack. Place

until the dough form s a ball. Rem ove the

the leeks around the edges of the grill,

dough from the bowl and brush lightly w ith

turning 2–3 tim es, until softened and

som e of the sesam e oil. Invert the bowl over

golden, 6 – 9 m inutes total. Sprinkle w ith

the dough and leave to cool, about 6 m inutes.

rom esco sauce for dipping.

Salt and freshly ground pepper 5 Tbsp (1 3⁄4 oz/ 50 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

Sift the flour into a bowl and m ake a well

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct

the rem aining thym e and serve w ith the

1 tsp chopped fresh thym e

2 1⁄2 cups (20 fl oz/ 625 m l) half-and-half (half cream ), w arm ed 6 large eggs, separated Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Coat a 14 -inch (35 -cm ) oval gratin dish or large soufflé dish w ith the 2 Tbsp butter and sprinkle the bottom and sides w ith 1 ⁄2 cup

Knead the dough very lightly until sm ooth

(2 oz/ 6 0 g) of the cheese.

and elastic, brush w ith m ore sesam e oil, and place in a plastic bag. Set aside for 30 – 6 0 m inutes.

In a large frying pan over m edium heat, warm the olive oil. Cook the leeks and thym e until the leeks are tender, about 12 m inutes.

Using your palm s, roll the dough back and

Season w ith salt and let cool. In a heavy

forth to form a log about 10 inches (25 cm )

saucepan over m edium heat, m elt the

long. Cut the log into 6 equal pieces and

5 Tbsp (2 1 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) butter. Add the flour

form each piece into a ball. Roll out each

and w hisk for 1 m inute until com bined.

ball into a very thin round about 7 inches

Whisk in the half-and-half and cook, whisking,

(18 cm ) in diam eter, brush generously w ith

until the sauce is sm ooth and thick, about

sesam e oil, sprinkle w ith salt, then cover

4 m inutes. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the egg

evenly w ith the chopped green onions. Roll

yolks, one at a tim e. Stir in the rem aining

up the round into a cigar shape, tw ist into

11 ⁄2 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) cheese and the leeks.

a tight coil, and brush the top w ith sesam e

Season w ith salt and pepper.

oil. On a lightly oiled work surface, flatten the coil w ith a rolling pin to m ake a round about 5 inches (13 cm ) in diam eter. Try to avoid having the onions break through the dough.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. With a rubber spatula, fold one-fourth of the whites into the leek m ixture. Quickly fold in the rem aining egg

Pour canola oil to a depth of 1 inch

whites until no white streaks rem ain. Pour

(2.5 cm ) into a large, shallow pan, and

into the prepared dish. Bake until golden

place over m edium -high heat. When the

brow n, about 25 m inutes. Serve right away.

oil is hot, cook 2 or 3 pancakes, turning once, until golden brow n, about 3 m inutes per side. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle w ith salt, cut into quarters, and serve right away.

SAVORY LEEK

GRUYÈRE SOUFFLÉ

Vege table Fruits TOMATOES

Wha t initia lly se e m s like a con tra dictory te rm is a spe cific ca te gory of produce item s tha t are botanically cla ssifie d a s

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES

fruits but in the kitchen are use d chie fly a s ve ge table s. Nearly all share a key characteristic: the pre sence of m any sm all se e ds,

CUCUMBERS

m any of them e dible. Avocados, an e xception, contain a single large, ine dible pit. It is ea sy to think of fre sh-picke d tom a toe s,

PICKLING CUCUMBERS

swe e t and juicy, a s fruits. In contra st, its hard to im agine chile s a s such, their flavor can range from m ild and swe e t to hot

SW EET PEPPERS PADRÓN PEPPERS

and alm ost incendiary. Som e ve ge table fruits are na tive to the New World: chile s and swee t peppers to Me xico, avocados to Central Am erica, tomatoes

CHILES DRIED CHILES

to South Am erica. Eggplants (aubergines) and possibly cucum bers com e from India . Ove r the ce n turie s, the se ve ge ta ble fruits spread beyond their continents of origin, and now pairings such

AVOCADOS EGGPLANTS

a s e ggplants and tom a toe s are considere d long-standing popular com bina tions in m any interna tional cuisine s. Hundre ds of varie tie s of ve ge table fruits have be en de velope d. Many cooks se ek out heirloom spe cim ens, particularly tom a toe s, for their pure flavor and intere sting colors and shape s. Farm ers’ m a rke ts a re the ide a l pla ce s to find the se ge ne ra tion s-old ve ge table fruits, e spe cially from sum m er to early autum n.

BUYING TOMATOES Tom atoes are best when eaten at the height of the sum m er season. For the best flavor, choose those that are ripened on the vine and are bright in color. Tom atoes can be stored at room tem perature for up to 3 days. If they are slightly unripe, put them in a sunny place, where they w ill ripen further.

Tomatoes Once fe a re d a s a poiso n, to m a to e s a re bo ta nica lly a fruit o f the nigh tsha d e ca te go ry. To m a to e s, n a tive to Sou th Am e rica , ha ve spre a d during the la st fe w ce nturie s a nd ha ve a da pte d to virtually e ve ry country on the globe. The tom a to com e s in a wide range of size s, from tiny curra nt tom a toe s no bigge r tha n blue be rrie s to fa t be e fste a ks up to 5 inche s (13 cm ) in dia m e te r. The colo rs o f he rita ge va rie tie s spa n the spe ctrum , from white to yellow to gre e n ze bra stripe s, from pink to ora nge to de e p viole t bla ck. The m ost fla vorful tom a toe s a ppe a r in fa rm e rs' m a rke ts from m id-sum m e r to e a rly autum n. Purists e njoy the m slice d thickly and serve d with a m ere sprinkling of coarse sa lt. Puré e d in to soup, la ye re d in sa nd wiche s, to sse d in to sa la d s, sim m e re d fo r pa sta , o r ro a ste d fo r sa lsa , to m a to e s a dd colo r a nd fla vo r to our ta ble in a m ultitude o f delicious ways.

WORKING WITH TOMATOES Rinse, dry, and trim the stem ends just before using. Depending on the recipe, you can leave the tom atoes whole, halve them , slice them crossw ise, cut lengthw ise into wedges, or chop to the desired sized pieces. To rem ove seeds for sm oother sauces, halve the tom atoes and squeeze each half gently over a bowl.

BUYING CUCUMBERS Look for slender, firm , dark green cucum bers w ithout w rinkled or yellow ed areas. English ( hothouse) varieties should be 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm ) long and 1 to 11⁄2 (2.5 to 4 cm ) in diam eter at the center. Wrap cucum bers w ith paper tow els and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Cucumbers This re fre shingly juicy, m ild-fla vore d ve ge ta ble a dd s crunch to g re e n sa la d s a nd crudité s pla tte rs. First cultiva te d in India a nd We ste rn Asia, m ost va rie tie s o f cucum be rs now fall into two ba sic ca te gorie s: slicing va rie tie s fo r e a ting fre sh a nd pickling va rie tie s tha t ke e p their crispne ss a fte r ca nning. Spe cialty cucum be rs tha t appear in farm ers' m arke ts include delica te, sm oothly te xture d slice rs like the fa m ilia r English (also calle d ho thouse ) cucum be rs; na rrow, straight Ja pa ne se cucum bers; or the unusual, yellow-skinne d, egg-shape d le m on cucum be rs. Cucum be rs a re a t the ir be st during the e a rly to mid-sum m er m onths. They star in re fre shing salads when to sse d with sim ple vin a ig re tte s, cre a m y dre ssing s, o r cum in-spike d yogurt. Dice d a nd cooke d brie fly in sauce s, cucum be rs be com e a delica te foil for fish a nd se a food. They a re also delicious a dditions to chille d soups.

WORKING WITH CUCUMBERS Young, tender cucum bers do not require seeding or peeling before use. Larger ones can be seeded easily by cutting in half lengthw ise and then scraping out the seedy pulp w ith the tip of a spoon. For a crisper texture, toss diced cucum bers w ith a sm all am ount of salt and let stand in a colander to extract the juices.

Chunky Tomato Conserve

Spaghettini with Fresh Plum Tomato Sauce

Rustic Tomato & Mozzarella Tart

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

3 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing and storage

1

TO M ATO ES

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

148

5 lb (2.5 kg) tom atoes, cored and cut into sm all chunks Salt

⁄3 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) unsalted butter

1 sm all w hite onion, thinly sliced crossw ise 1 lb (500 g) plum (Rom a) tom atoes, peeled, sliced lengthw ise, and seeded Salt

In a large frying pan over high heat, warm

8 fresh basil leaves, torn into sm all pieces

the olive oil. Add the tom atoes and 1 tsp

1 lb (500 g) spaghettini

salt, bring to a boil and cook until soft,

Grated hard cheese such as Parm esan

2–3 ripe red and yellow tom atoes, about 8 oz (250 g) total w eight, cored and cut into slices 1⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick Salt 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, m elted 8-by-10-inch (20-by-25-cm ) rectangle of frozen puff pastry, cut in half and thaw ed in the refrigerator

about 2 m inutes. Pass the tom atoes through a food m ill.

In a large frying pan over m edium heat,

Rinse the frying pan, dry, and return to

m elt the butter. Add the onion and 1 ⁄4 cup

high heat. Add the tom atoes and bring

(2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l) water, cover, and cook

to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook

gently, stirring occasionally, until tender

stirring often, until reduced by two-thirds,

and translucent, about 10 m inutes.

about 2 hours.

Add the tom atoes, cover partially, and

Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C) . Lightly

cook over low heat until cream y, about

brush a baking sheet w ith olive oil and

20 m inutes. If the sauce begins to dry

spread out the tom atoes in an even layer.

out, add m ore water to the pan.

Bake, turning the tom atoes as their surface

Stir in salt to taste and the basil. Rem ove

darkens, until the liquid evaporates and the

from the heat and let stand, covered, for

tom atoes have reduced to a thick, shiny,

2 m inutes. Set aside.

brick-colored paste, about 1 hour.

3 ⁄4 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) shredded w hole-m ilk m ozzarella cheese

4 Tbsp (1 oz/ 30 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parm esan 2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil Olive oil for drizzling Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Place the tom ato slices on paper towels, season w ith salt, and let drain, 30 – 6 0 m inutes. In a sm all bowl, com bine the garlic and butter. Place the puff pastry rectangles on a baking

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

sheet lined w ith parchm ent ( baking) paper.

Transfer the conserve to a glass jar, top w ith

Add the spaghettini and cook until al dente,

Brush w ith the garlic butter and season

about 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) of olive oil, and store

7– 9 m inutes or according to the package

w ith salt. Leaving a 1 ⁄4 -inch ( 6 -m m ) border,

in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Top w ith

directions. Drain and place in a large, shallow

sprinkle the pastry evenly with the m ozzarella

olive oil after each use.

bowl. Add the sauce and toss. Top w ith the

and 2 Tbsp of the Parm esan. Arrange

Serve this chunky conserve on top of crackers or toasted bread slices.

cheese and serve right away.

the tom ato slices on top. Sprinkle w ith the rem aining 2 Tbsp Parm esan. Bake until puffed and golden, 25 –30 m inutes. Sprinkle w ith the basil and drizzle w ith the olive oil and serve right away.

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE

He irlo om tom a to e s a re old-fa shione d va rie tie s tha t ha ve be e n re in tro duce d by fa rm e rs a n d

In a sm all bowl, whisk together 3 Tbsp

g a rd e n e rs. Th e se to m a to e s a re full o f fla vor,

extra-virgin olive oil, 1 Tbsp balsam ic vinegar,

bu t th e y m a y n o t ke e p a s lo n g a s m o re

and 1 large shallot, m inced. Season with

com m only a va ila ble va rie tie s, a nd the y m a y

salt and pepper. Let stand for 30 m inutes.

ha ve thinne r skin s, qua litie s tha t m a ke the m

Core 1–11⁄4 lb (500–625 g) heirloom tom atoes.

le ss de sirable for com m ercial proce ssing. Many

Halve the tom atoes, then cut into thin wedges.

ne w tom a to va rie tie s o fte n also cla ssifie d a s

Arrange on a platter, drizzle the vinaigrette,

heirloom have also be e n introduce d.

and serve. Makes 4 servings.

RUSTIC TOMATO

MOZZARELLA TART

GRILLED BLACK COD WITH CUCUMBERS

GINGER

Cucumber Salad with Yogurt-Dill Sauce

Chilled Spicy Cucumber Gazpacho

Grilled Black Cod with Cucumbers & Ginger

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

4 English (hothouse) cucum bers, peeled and thinly sliced

4 ⁄4 cups (1 ⁄2 lb/ 690 g) peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped English (hothouse) cucum bers

151 1

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) plus 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

3

3 cloves garlic 2

⁄3 cup (5 oz/ 150 g) plain yogurt

1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice 2 Tbsp m inced fresh dill 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) ice w ater

1 sm all clove garlic 1

w hite w ine vinegar 1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice Salt

1 hour. Drain off excess liquid.

1 sm all shallot, finely diced

Mince the garlic cloves and put into a sm all bowl. Add the yogurt, lem on juice, and dill.

1 sm all jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped

Season w ith salt and white pepper to taste.

1 Tbsp finely chopped basil

bow l, pour the dressing over the top, and toss. Refrigerate for 1 hour, then serve.

3 Tbsp chopped pickled ginger

3 Tbsp canola oil, plus extra for greasing 4 black cod fillets, about 11⁄2 lb (750 g) total w eight Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling over high heat ( page 26 4) or use a stovetop grill pan. Oil the grill rack. In a bowl, com bine the cucum bers and onion and 11 ⁄2 tsp salt. Let stand for 15 m inutes.

Add the olive oil and stir until blended

Place the drained cucum ber slices in a salad

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 Tbsp rice vinegar

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) plus 2 tsp

on a plate. Salt lightly and let stand for about

to m ake a dressing.

1 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) thinly sliced red onion

Com bine 4 cups (1 ⁄4 lb/ 6 2 5 g) of the

Stir in the ginger, vinegar, and 2 Tbsp of the

cucum bers, 3 ⁄4 cup ( 6 fl oz/ 18 0 m l) olive oil,

canola oil. Set aside.

ice water, garlic, the ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l)

Brush the fillets on both sides w ith the

vinegar, and lem on juice in a blender and

rem aining 1 Tbsp oil. Sprinkle on both sides

purée. Pour into a serving bowl and season

with 1⁄2 tsp each salt and pepper.

1

1

w ith salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving or up to overnight.

Place the fish, skin side dow n, over the fire and grill, turning once, until just opaque

In a sm all bowl, stir together the shallot, the

throughout, about 8 m inutes total.

2 tsp vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Let stand for 10 m inutes. Stir in the rem aining 1 ⁄4 cup

Transfer the fillets to a serving platter and top

(1 oz/ 30 g) cucum ber, jalapeño, basil, and

w ith the cucum ber salad. Serve right away.

the 1 Tbsp oil. Season w ith salt. Ladle the soup into chilled bowls, garnish w ith the jalapeño m ixture, and drizzle w ith oil. Serve right away.

PICKLING CUCUMBERS

SWEET-AND-SOUR CUCUMBER SALAD

Sm a ll, finge r-le ng th pickling cucum be rs

Peel 2 lb ( 1 kg) pickling cucum bers and cut in

to cool. Pat the cucum bers dry with paper

(a lso ca lle d gh e rkin s o r co rnich o n s )

half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds, then cut

towels. In a large bowl, com bine the cucum bers;

show up in m a rke t bin s for a fe w we e ks

again crosswise into thin slices 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m )

4 shallots, thinly sliced; 1 chile, cut into thin rings

d u rin g th e su m m e r. Th e ir swe e t ta ste

thick. Place in a colander, sprinkle with 1 tsp

and seeded; and 2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro

a nd crunchy te xture m a ke the m ide a l for

salt, and toss to m ix. Set aside and let drain for

( fresh coriander) . Pour the vinegar m ixture over

brining a nd turning in to pickle s, bu t the y

1 hour. In a sm all saucepan, com bine 1 ⁄2 cup

the cucum ber m ixture and toss to coat. Cover

a re a lso de liciou s ra w in re cipe s or for

( 4 fl oz/ 125 m l) rice vinegar, 2 Tbsp sugar, and

and refrigerate for 2 hours or up to overnight.

e a ting ou t o f ha nd.

1 tsp salt. Bring to a sim m er over m edium heat

Serve chilled. Makes 4–6 servings.

and cook, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Set aside

CU CU M BERS

Place the cucum ber slices in a single layer

1

2 English (hothouse) or Japanese cucum bers, thinly sliced

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

Salt and ground w hite pepper

1

BUYING SWEET PEPPERS Buy firm , sm ooth, brightly colored sweet peppers (capsicum s) , avoiding any that are shriveled or soft. The green tops should be sm ooth, plum p, and brightly colored. Refrigerate green peppers for up to 1 week in a plastic bag. Peppers of other colors w ill keep for up to 5 days.

Swee t Peppers Swe e t pe ppe rs, like their cousins the spicy chile s, a re n a tive to Sou th Am e rica . Also ca lle d be ll pe ppe rs or ca psicum s, swe e t pe ppe rs a re crisp a nd juicy. Gre e n peppers usually have a sharper flavor and a characteristic ve ge tal no te. Re d pe ppe rs, allowe d to ripe n to m a turity, com e from the sa m e pla nt a s gre e n one s. Othe r colors o f pe ppe rs, such a s yellow, ora nge, brown, a nd purple, a re diffe re nt va rie tie s tha t ha ve the sa m e swe e t fla vor o f re d pe ppe rs, but ca n a dd colorful va rie ty to dishe s. Swe e t pe ppe rs a re m ost a bunda nt a nd fla vorful from m id- to la te sum m e r. They ca n be slice d a nd e njoye d raw in sala d s, dice d a nd sauté e d until silke n in te xture a nd e ve n swe e te r in fla vo r, ro a ste d or g rille d fo r a n tipa sti pla tte rs a nd sa nd wiche s, o r ba ke d wh ole a nd fille d with sa vory stuffings.

WORKING WITH SWEET PEPPERS Sweet peppers need to be trim m ed and their seeds and m em branes rem oved before use. Cut each pepper in half lengthw ise. Pull out the stem or cut it out w ith a knife. Trim away the seeds and white m em branes, or ribs to which they are attached. Rem aining seeds can be rinsed away. Cut the flesh to the size and shape specified in the recipe.

BUYING CHILES Select firm , bright chiles that are free of blem ishes, m oldy stem s, soft spots, or w rinkling. In general, the sm aller and m ore pointed the chile, the hotter it is. Rounded habaneros and Scotch bonnets are the exceptions, as these two are am ong the hottest varieties. Store all types of chiles in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Chiles Ove r ce nturie s o f dom e stica tion, hundre d s o f va rie tie s o f chile s ha ve be e n de velope d from the e a rlie st pla nts grown in La tin Am e rica . Re quiring ho t sum m e rs, they grow well in tropical a re a s. Am ong the m ost popula r m ild va rie tie s for se rving whole a re long, gra ss-gre e n Ana heim s; da rk gre e n, tria ngula r pobla nos; a nd na rrow, yellow ba na na chile s. Ho tte r va rie tie s use d for salsa s a nd sauce s include long, ho t Fre sno chile s; bell-sha pe d ha ba ne ros; the thin, bulle t-sha pe d se rra nos; a nd the ubiquitous, ta pe re d jala pe ños. Chile s a re a t their pe ak se a son from la te sum m e r to e a rly autum n. In a ddition to contributing he a t a nd de pth o f fla vor to sauce s a nd salsa s, chile s ca n be stuffe d with che e se , m e a t, o r ve ge ta ble s a nd the n frie d or ba ke d. Ro a ste d a nd slice d in to ribbo n s, m ild e r chile s ca n be stirre d into soups or tosse d with shre dde d m ea t for tacos, sa nd wich fillings, or e gg dishe s.

WORKING WITH CHILES A com pound called capsaicin gives chiles their heat. It is concentrated inside the chiles, so to lessen their heat, trim off m em branes and scrape away seeds. Since the heat from chiles can linger for hours on your skin, wear thin gloves or thoroughly wash your hands along w ith the cutting board and the knife as soon as you have finished working w ith them .

Pepper Salad with Sherry Vinegar & Ricotta Salata

Piperade with Mixed Bell Peppers

Roasted Red Peppers with Fresh Mozzarella

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 8 SERVINGS

3 red bell peppers (capsicum s), seeded

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) plus 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

6 red bell peppers (capsicum s), about 3 lb (1.5 kg) total w eight

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic

154

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp sherry vinegar

2 large yellow onions, cut into ⁄4-inch (6-m m ) slices 1

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1

⁄4 lb (125 g) ricotta salata

Cut the bell peppers into m atchsticks, about 1 ⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick and 2–3 inches (5 –7.5 cm ) long. In a large serving bowl, whisk together the

SW EET PEPPERS

1

1 yellow bell pepper (capsicum ), seeded and chopped 2 red bell peppers (capsicum s), seeded and chopped 11⁄2 Tbsp chile pow der

olive oil and vinegar to m ake a vinaigrette.

2 large tom atoes, seeded and chopped

Add the bell peppers, season w ith salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper

and pepper, and toss. Marinate for at least 10 m inutes or up to 1 hour. Arrange on individual salad plates and shave the ricotta salata over the top. Serve right away.

In a sm all saucepan, com bine the 1 ⁄3 cup

Salt 2 Tbsp sm all capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed w ell 2 Tbsp chopped fresh m arjoram or basil 2–3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of cayenne pepper 11⁄2 tsp red w ine vinegar, or m ore to taste 1 lb (500 g) sm all fresh m ozzarella cheese balls (bocconcini)

of the olive oil and half of the garlic over

Halve the peppers lengthw ise and rem ove

low heat. Cook until the garlic is soft, about

the stem s and seeds. Cut into strips 1 ⁄2 inch

5 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat and set

(12 m m ) w ide and put in a bowl.

aside. Once cooled, m ash the garlic against the side of the pan w ith a fork.

Mash the garlic into a paste w ith a pinch of salt. Add the garlic paste, capers, m arjoram

In a large frying pan over m edium heat,

or basil, and olive oil to the peppers and

warm the rem aining 2 Tbsp oil. Add the

toss. Season w ith salt, cayenne, and the red

onions, bell peppers, and the rem aining

wine vinegar and toss again. Let stand at room

garlic; sauté until the vegetables begin

tem perature for at least 10 –20 m inutes or

to soften, about 6 m inutes. Add the chile

up to several hours. Just before serving,

powder and cook for 1 m inute longer. Add

season w ith salt and m ore vinegar if

the tom atoes and sauté until soft, about

desired. Transfer the peppers to a platter.

3 m inutes. Season w ith salt and pepper.

Scatter the m ozzarella balls on top and

Rem ove from the heat and set aside.

serve right away.

Serve right away. Make this recipe into a main dish by serving it with seared ahi tuna fillets cut into thin strips.

PADRÓN PEPPERS

GRILLED PADRÓN PEPPERS WITH COARSE SALT

Na m e d a fte r the Spa nish town whe re the ir se e d s origina te d, Pa drón pe ppe rs a re a re ce n t

Prepare a gas or charoal grill for direct-heat

find a t the fa rm e rs’ m a rke t. Sm a ll a nd g re e n,

cooking over high heat ( page 264) or use

th e ir fla vo r is u su a lly swe e t a n d m ild bu t

a stovetop grill pan. In a bowl, toss 1 lb

ca n be h o t a n d spicy m a kin g e ve ry bite

( 500 g) Padrón peppers with 1 Tbsp extra-

su spe n se ful. Pa drón pe ppe rs a re be st frie d

virgin olive oil. Grill the peppers, turning with

or g rille d a nd se rve d with co a rse sa lt sprinkle d

tongs, until the skin has blistered on all sides,

on top. The y're a va ila ble in the sum m e r whe n

3 – 4 m inutes. Season with coarse salt and

o the r chile s a ppe a r.

serve right away. Makes 4 servings.

Serve this dish as a first course for an Italian-themed meal.

PIPERADE WITH MIXED BELL PEPPERS

JALAPEÑOS STUFFED WITH SAUSAGE

CHEESE

Quesadilla with Queso Fresco & Chiles

Fried Eggs with Charred Chiles & Crème Fraîche

Jalapeños Stuffed with Sausage & Cheese

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 2 – 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

4 poblano chiles, roasted (page 264)

1

⁄2 lb (250 g) poblano chiles, roasted (page 264)

1

157 5 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) canola oil

1 large clove garlic, m inced

3 Tbsp olive oil

1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) grated telem e cheese

1 sm all w hite onion, cut into slices ⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

1

⁄2 tsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

6 flour tortillas, each 10 inches (25 cm ) in diam eter

1

⁄2 tsp dried oregano

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 cups (12 oz/ 375 g) shredded queso fresco or feta cheese

1

3 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) 4 large eggs, fried

Halve the chiles lengthw ise and discard the core and seeds, then cut into strips ⁄4 inch 1

( 6 m m ) w ide. In a large frying pan over m edium -low heat, warm 1 Tbsp of the canola oil. Add the onion until soft, about 15 m inutes. Sauté the garlic for 1 m inute. Stir in the chiles and season w ith salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for 5 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat. If the m ixture has released any juices, drain in a colander and set aside.

Halve the chiles lengthw ise and discard the core and seeds, then cut into strips 1

⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) w ide.

In a large frying pan over m edium -high heat, warm 1 Tbsp of the oil . Sauté the onion,

Salt 12 large jalapeño chiles, halved lengthw ise and seeded Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Crum ble the sausage in a bowl. Add the cheese, fennel seeds, and parsley and season w ith salt. Stir to com bine. Set aside. Season the jalapeños w ith salt and spoon about 1 Tbsp of the sausage m ixture into each half.

until not quite tender, about 5 m inutes.

Arrange the jalapeños in a single layer on a

Add the garlic and oregano and sauté for

baking sheet, stuffed side up, and bake until

30 seconds. Add the chiles, season w ith

golden, about 20 m inutes. Serve right away.

salt, and cook until heated, about 1 m inute. Transfer to a blender. Add half of the crèm e fraîche and cook over m edium heat for

In a large frying pan over m edium -high

1 m inute, scraping the pan bottom to

heat, warm 2 tsp of the oil. Add 1 tortilla

rem ove any caram elized bits. Add the warm

and reduce the heat to m edium . Sprinkle

crèm e fraîche, rem aining crèm e fraîche, and

half the surface w ith 1 ⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 6 0 g) of

cilantro to the blender and purée. Arrange

the shredded cheese, keeping the cheese

the fried eggs on plates, top w ith the sauce,

away from the edges. Top the cheese evenly

and season w ith salt and pepper.

w ith one-sixth of the chile-onion m ixture and 1 Tbsp of the cilantro. Fold the untopped half over the filling, pressing gently. Move the quesadilla into the center of the frying pan and cook until the bottom is nicely

DRIED CHILES

SPICY HOT COCOA

Drie d chile s first a ppe a r in the m a rke ts

Release the seeds of 1 ancho chile into

in la te a u tum n, a fte r the fre sh chile s ha ve

a saucepan. Add 6 Tbsp ( 1 oz/ 30 g)

disa ppe a re d. Lo ok for fle xible po d s ra the r

unsweetened cocoa powder, 3 Tbsp sugar,

tha n brittle one s. The y will be wrinkle d a nd

and 1 ⁄3 cup ( 3 fl oz/ 80 m l) water. Place over

pe rha ps a little twiste d, bu t the y should ha ve

low heat and stir until a paste form s. Pour in

brow ned, about 1 m inute. Turn and cook until the other side is nicely brow ned, about 1 m inute longer. Repeat w ith the rem aining ingredients, using 2 tsp of the oil for each tortilla. Serve right away.

a go o d uniform color. Store drie d chile s in

2 1 ⁄2 cups ( 20 fl oz/ 625 m l) whole m ilk, and

a n a irtigh t con ta ine r a wa y from ligh t a nd

stir until the paste dissolves. Cook until hot,

m oisture . The y will ke e p for up to 6 m on th s.

about 2 m inutes. Strain into m ugs and garnish with cinnam on sticks. Makes 4 servings.

CH ILES

6 Tbsp ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) crèm e fraîche

2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

⁄2 lb (250 g) m ild Italian sausage, casings rem oved

BUYING AVOCADOS Look for dark, nearly black skin only when buying the Hass variety of avocado. Other varieties stay green through ripening. A ripe avocado w ill yield to gentle pressure when squeezed. Avoid avocados that feel m ushy or show signs of m old. Store ripe avocados at cool room tem perature for up to 2 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Avocados Be ne a th its thick, da rk rind, the e gg-sha pe d a voca do re ve als gre e n-golde n fle sh with a silke n te xture a nd butte ry fla vor. Most tha t com e to m a rke t fall into two broa d ca te gorie s. The gre e n-bla ck, pe bbly-skinne d Gua ta m a la n va rie tie s like Ha ss (a lso spe lle d Ha a s), Zuta no, a nd Ba con a re widely popula r for their long growing se a sons a nd their high oil conte nt. Tre e s from the Me xica n va rie tie s, such a s Fue rte a nd Gwe n, be a r la rge r fruit with sm oo the r, lighte r colore d skins a nd ge ne rally lowe r fa t conte nt. Avoca dos ha ve a long se a son a nd com e to m a rke t, de pe nding on the va rie ty, from e a rly spring through la te autum n in tem pera te regions. The fruit is a t its be st when se rve d raw or only slightly he a te d, a s its fla vor doe s no t hold up to cooking. Ripe a voca dos a re e spe cially popula r m a she d into gua ca m ole, spre a d onto sa nd wiche s, dice d for salsa s, a nd slice d to ga rnish sala d s.

WORKING WITH AVOCADOS To speed ripening, place the avocados in a paper bag w ith an apple, banana, or tom ato. Since avocado flesh quickly turns brow n when exposed to air, cut just before serving or sprinkle w ith fresh lem on juice. To prepare, cut each avocado in half lengthw ise, rotate the halves in opposite directions to separate, and then scoop out the pit w ith a spoon and discard.

BUYING EGGPLANTS Choose sm ooth, firm , glossy-skinned eggplants (aubergines) w ith green caps and stem s. Whether purple, white, green, or another color, avoid any that are wrinkled, torn, bruised, or scarred or that have brow n, dried caps. Store eggplants in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Eggplants Na tive to Africa a nd Asia , e g g pla n ts, a lso kn own a s aube rgine s, a re na m e d for the a ppe a ra nce o f the olde st varie tie s, which were sm all, white, and egg shape d. Now, e gg pla nts from a round the world a ppe a r a t fa rm e rs' m a rke ts. Am o ng the m o st fa m ilia r re m a in s the la rge , purple -bla ck globe e gg pla nt com m on in Me dite rra ne a n cuisine s. Chine se a nd Ja pa ne se e gg pla nts a re long, thin ve ge ta ble s with de nse r fle sh a nd thinne r skins tha t ra nge in color from pink to la ve nde r to da rk purple. Spe cialty va rie tie s m ay be ivory, rose colore d, stripe d or stria te d, or e ve n gre e n, a s with the tiny, round Thai e gg pla nt. Egg pla nts a re a t their be st a nd m ost a bunda nt in la te sum m e r. La rge globe e gg pla nt a re ide al for roa sting, broiling, a nd grilling, a fte r which they e xcel in puré e d spre a d s, pa sta sauce s, a nd chille d a ntipa sti. Asia n e gg pla nts le nd the m selve s well to stir-frying, braising in curry sauce s, a nd pickling.

WORKING WITH EGGPLANTS Rinse the eggplants. Using a large knife, trim the green top. If an eggplant is large w ith num erous seeds, or if the flesh looks dark and watery, extract the bitter juices by sprinkling salt on it after slicing and place in a colander set in the sink for 3 0 m inutes. Salting also prepares eggplant for deep -frying. Young eggplants or Asian varieties can be cooked w ithout salting or peeling.

Classic Guacamole with Tortilla Chips

Avocado & Shrimp Summer Rolls

Avocado, Bacon & Tomato Tartines

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

1 ripe avocado

6 rice-paper rounds, each 8 inches (20 cm ) in diam eter

4 slices course country bread, each 1⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick

6 red-leaf or butter (Boston) lettuce leaves

1

1 avocado, pitted, peeled, and cut into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

2 tom atoes, cut into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

160

AVO CAD O S

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

2 Tbsp fresh lim e or lem on juice 1

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) fresh chopped

fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) 1 green (spring) onion, chopped

1

1 serrano chile, seeded and m inced 1 clove garlic, m inced Salt

⁄2 sm all cucum ber, seeded and shredded

2 oz (60 g) cellophane noodles, soaked in boiling w ater for 15 m inutes and drained

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) Aioli (page 139)

Salt 8 thin slices bacon, cooked 1 avocado, cut into thin slices

Tortilla chips for serving

9 m edium peeled, deveined, and cooked shrim p (praw ns), cut in half lengthw ise

Halve the avocado lengthw ise, cutting

18 each fresh m int leaves and fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) leaves

Arrange the bread in a single layer on

Asian Dipping Sauce (page 262)

until lightly toasted, 2–3 m inutes.

around the pit. Rotate the halves to separate and rem ove the pit. Rem ove the flesh and put in a sm all bowl.

Fill a w ide, shallow bowl w ith warm water.

Mash the avocado flesh w ith a fork. Add

Working w ith 1 rice-paper round at a tim e,

the lim e or lem on juice, cilantro, green

soak in the warm water until softened, about

onion, serrano chile, and garlic. Mix the

10 seconds. Shake off the excess water and

ingredients until well incorporated. Season

place on a work surface. Set a lettuce leaf

to taste w ith salt.

horizontally on the bottom half of the

Serve the guacam ole right away

rice paper. In a line across the base of the

alongside tortilla chips.

lettuce, place 11 ⁄2 slices of avocado, 1 tsp of the cucum ber, and several strands of the noodles; do not overstuff the rolls. Lift the bottom edge of the rice paper and roll up halfway into a tight cylinder. Place 3 shrim p halves and 3 each of the m int and cilantro leaves along the inside seam of the roll. Fold in the sides of the rice paper and continue to roll into a cylinder. Moisten the edge of the roll to seal. Cut the rolls in half and place seam side dow n on a platter. Serve right away w ith the dipping sauce.

Preheat the broiler ( grill) .

a baking sheet and put under the broiler

Spread the aioli on the bread and top w ith a few tom ato slices, pressing the tom ato into the bread. Season with salt and top the tom ato with the bacon slices, then with the avocado and a light sprinkle of salt. Serve right away.

AVOCADO, BACON

TOMATO TARTINES

ROLLED EGGPLANT WITH SAUSAGE

MOZZARELLA

Smoky Roasted Ratatouille

Rolled Eggplant with Sausage & Mozzarella

Soy-Glazed Broiled Eggplant

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

1 lb (500 g) plum (Rom a) tom atoes, halved lengthw ise

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) Italian or Asian eggplant (slender aubergine) trim m ed and cut lengthw ise into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

163

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) plus 2 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp olive oil plus extra for greasing 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) w hite m iso

2 Tbsp rice w ine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 sm all eggplant (aubergine), trim m ed and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) chunks

5 oz (155 g) Italian sausage, casings rem oved

1 sm all zucchini (courgette), trim m ed and cut crossw ise into slices 1⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) tom ato sauce

4 Asian eggplants (slender aubergines)

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) w hole-m ilk ricotta

2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil

4 oz (125 g) fresh m ozzarella cheese, cut into sm all pieces

Preheat the broiler ( grill) . Brush a large

1 sm all yellow crookneck squash, trim m ed and cut crossw ise into slices 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick 1 green bell pepper (capsicum ), seeded and cut into 11⁄2 -inch (4-cm ) squares 5 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) olive oil

1 Tbsp soy sauce 1 Tbsp sugar 1 tsp grated fresh ginger

baking sheet w ith olive oil.

4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 60 g) grated hard cheese, such as Parm esan 1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

In a sm all bowl, whisk together the m iso, vinegar, soy sauce, 1 Tbsp water, the sugar, and ginger to m ake a glaze.

Preheat the oven to 45 0 °F (2 30 °C) . Brush

Cut the eggplants (aubergines) in half

the eggplant on both sides w ith the 1 ⁄4 cup

lengthw ise and place cut side up on the

(2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l) of the olive oil and season

baking sheet. Brush w ith the 2 Tbsp of oil.

fresh basil

w ith salt. Place in an even layer on a baking

Broil until they begin to soften and turn

2 Tbsp chopped fresh thym e

sheet and bake until lightly brow ned on the

golden, about 5 m inutes. Rem ove from the

bottom , about 10 m inutes. Turn the slices

oven, brush w ith the glaze, and broil again

Preheat the oven to 425°F (2 20 °C) . Place

and bake until tender, 5 –7 m inutes. Rem ove

for 2 m inutes longer. Rem ove from the

the tom atoes, garlic, onion, eggplant, zucchini,

from the oven and reduce the oven

oven and turn the baking sheet 180 degrees.

squash, and bell pepper in a bow l, coat

tem perature to 350°F (180°C) .

Continue to broil until the eggplant is tender

In a frying pan over m edium -high heat,

and the glaze is golden brown, 4 –5 m inutes.

warm the rem aining 2 Tbsp olive oil. Sauté

To serve, arrange the eggplant slices on

the sausage until cooked through, about

a platter and sprinkle evenly w ith the

Roast the vegetables, stirring 1–2 tim es,

3 m inutes. Stir in the tom ato sauce and

chopped basil. Serve right away.

for 20 m inutes. Rem ove from the oven and

bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low

sprinkle w ith the basil and thym e. Continue

and sim m er for 5 m inutes.

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) finely shredded

w ith the olive oil and season w ith salt. Place the vegetables in single layer on a large rim m ed baking sheet.

to roast, stirring 1–2 tim es, until tender when pierced w ith a fork, 5 –10 m inutes longer. Rem ove the pan from the oven and season w ith salt and pepper.

In a bowl, stir together the ricotta, the m ozzarella, 2 Tbsp of the Parm esan, and the parsley. Season w ith salt and pepper. Spread half of the sauce on the bottom

Transfer to a serving bow l. Serve hot,

of a 9 -inch (2 3 -cm ) baking dish. Place

warm , or at room tem perature.

a spoonful of the cheese m ixture near the w ide end of each eggplant slice, roll up, and place upright or upside dow n in the sauce. Spoon the rem aining sauce between the rolls. Sprinkle w ith the rem aining 2 Tbsp Parm esan. Bake until the sauce is bubbling, about 20 m inutes. Serve right away.

EGGPLAN TS

1 large yellow onion, cut crossw ise into slices 1⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

VEGETABLE FRU ITS

4 large cloves garlic, sliced

1

Other Vege tables MUSHROOMS

Se veral ve ge table s found a t farm ers’ m arke ts bear little rela tion to other groups of produce and claim distinct characteristics

SW EET CORN ARTICHOKES

of their own. Mushroom s are e dible type s of fungi. Corn, an im portant crop worldwide, is a type of grass that produces grains, or kernels, borne on sizable ears. Artichoke s are the flower buds

BABY ARTICHOKES

of a type of thistle. Mushroom s have an unmistakable earthiness. Fre sh corn is so swe e t and juicy tha t the kernels can be ea ten raw. Artichoke s are prize d for their m ild buttery flavor. Ea ch o f the se ve ge ta ble s ha s a diffe re n t line a ge. The e xa ct ge ographic origin of m ushroom s is unclear, but food historians the orize tha t the earlie st e dible fungi da te to prehistoric tim e s. The a ncie n t Gre e ks a nd Rom a n s m ay ha ve be e n the first to cultiva te m u shro om s. Now, thou sa nd s o f m u shro om va rie tie s e xist worldwide, though a lim ite d num ber com e to m arke t. Corn is a New World crop. Artichoke s, na tive to the Me diterranean, were enjoye d by the Rom ans. Mushroom varie ties, wild and cultivated, are harvested throughout the year. Be sure not to m iss sum m er’s crop of swe e t corn, be st when ea ten the day ears are picke d from the stalks. Wa tch for the prim ary harve st of artichoke s in early spring.

BUYING MUSHROOMS Fresh m ushroom s should be firm and have sm ooth, unblem ished caps. Avoid any that are broken, lim p, wrinkled, soggy, or m oldy. Stem s with gray, dried ends indicate that the m ushroom s are old. As m ushroom s age, they dry out, so the heaviest ones are the freshest. Store all m ushroom varieties in a paper bag in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Mushroom s Alm o st 4 0 ,0 0 0 va rie tie s o f m u shro o m s g row in the wild, bu t o nly a fra ctio n o f the se m a ke it to the ta ble , whe re the y a re e njoye d fo r the ir rich, e a rthy fla vo r. Fo r culin a ry purpo se s, m u shro o m s a re divid e d in to two ca te go rie s. Ma ny a re cultiva te d, like the fa m ilia r bu tto n or white m ushroom a nd the la rge, da rk, wide portobello. Wild m u shro o m s includ e the po pula r, a ll-purpo se shiitake ; the de e ply a rom a tic Italia n porcini (also calle d cè pe s); the highly prize d m orel with its elonga te d ca ps a nd furrowe d ridge s; the pa le a nd d e lica te oyste r m u shro o m ; the pin e -sce n te d m a tsu ta ke ; a nd the fla re d, a prico t-sce n te d cha te re lle tha t g rows in striking gold e n ora nge or bla ck color. The m o st fla vo rful m u shro o m s a re still g a the re d by e xpe rie nce d fo ra ge rs during co ol, m oist d a ys in spring a nd a u tum n . Sa u té ing , g rilling , ro a sting , a nd drying co nce n tra te the rich, wo o d sy fla vo rs o f m u shro o m s.

WORKING WITH MUSHROOMS Mushroom s absorb water easily, becom ing soggy and flavorless if left to soak. If possible, w ipe the m ushroom s clean w ith a dam p cloth or soft brush. If needed, rinse m ushroom s quickly and dry thoroughly w ith paper towels just before cooking. Trim the dried end of tender stem s. Tough stem s, such as those of shiitakes, should be rem oved entirely.

Creamy Mushroom Soup with Sherry

Wild Rice & Mushroom Pilaf

Seared Halibut with Wild Mushroom Ragout

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

1 oz (30 g) dried porcini m ushroom s

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) chicken broth

6 Tbsp (3 oz/ 90 g) unsalted butter

1 sm all leek, w hite part only, chopped

2 tsp unsalted butter

2 yellow onions, chopped

1 lb (500 g) m ixed fresh m ushroom s such as w hite button, shiitake, m orel, and w ood ear, brushed clean

1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp olive oil

M U SH RO O M S

O TH ER VEGETABLES

168

2 lb (1 kg) fresh m ushroom s, brushed clean and thinly sliced 5 cups (40 fl oz/ 1.25 l) chicken broth 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) dry sherry

1 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) w ild rice, rinsed and drained

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Rinse the porcini and place in a bowl.

In a large saucepan over m edium heat,

Add 1 cup ( 8 fl oz/ 25 0 m l) hot water and

m elt the butter. Add the leek and the

let stand for 1 hour. Lift out the porcini,

m ushroom s and sauté until the leeks are

squeezing over the bowl to rem ove m oisture,

soft and translucent and the m ushroom s

and chop finely. Strain the liquid through a

begin to brow n, about 8 m inutes.

sieve lined with dam p cheesecloth ( m uslin) .

1

Add the w ild rice, parsley, salt, pepper, and

1 lb (500 g) fresh button m ushroom s, brushed clean and halved 1 lb (500 g) m ixed m orel, oyster, and shiitake m ushroom s, brushed clean and cut into pieces the sam e size as the button m ushroom halves

⁄2 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) heavy (double) cream

1

2 cloves garlic, m inced 2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 skinless halibut fillets, each about 6 oz (185 g)

In a heavy saucepan over low heat, m elt

water to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm ) . Bring to

2 Tbsp of the butter. Add the onions and

a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook

cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent,

In a sm all saucepan, bring the chicken broth

until the rice is tender, about 45 m inutes.

about 10 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat.

to a boil until reduced by half, 3 – 5 m inutes.

Drain off any excess water. The cooking

Rem ove from the heat and set aside.

In a large frying pan over m edium heat,

tim e w ill vary w ith different batches of rice.

m elt the rem aining 4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 6 0 g)

The w ild rice is ready when the grains puff

In a large frying pan over m edium -high

butter. Add the m ushroom s and sauté

up and the inner, lighter part is visible.

heat, m elt the butter w ith the 2 tsp olive

slowly, stirring, until soft, 10 –15 m inutes.

Transfer to a warm ed serving dish

golden, 5 – 6 m inutes. Add the chicken

Add the cooked m ushroom s, the chopped

and serve right away.

broth, the cream , garlic, parsley and sim m er

oil. Add all the m ushroom s and sauté until

porcini, and the strained liquid to the

over m edium heat until reduced by half,

sautéed onions and return to m edium -high

3 – 4 m inutes. Season w ith salt and pepper.

heat. Pour in the broth and bring to a boil.

Cover the pan and turn the heat to low.

Reduce the heat to low and sim m er, uncovered, about 20 m inutes.

Heat a large nonstick frying pan over m edium -high heat for 2–3 m inutes. Add

Working in batches and using a slotted

the rem aining 1 Tbsp oil. Add the halibut

spoon, transfer the m ushroom s and onions

and sauté, turning once, until brow ned on

to a blender or food processor. Add a

both sides and opaque throughout when

little of the cooking liquid and purée until

pierced w ith a knife, about 8 m inutes total.

sm ooth. Transfer to a clean saucepan. Thin

Transfer to a cutting board and cut the fillets

the purée w ith as m uch of the rem aining

into equal pieces. Spoon the m ushroom s

liquid as needed. Add the sherry and cream

over the halibut, and serve right away.

and season w ith salt and pepper. Reheat over low heat. Serve right away.

WILD RICE

MUSHROOM PILAF

BUYING SWEET CORN Choose ears w ith green husks and no signs of brow ning or drying. They should feel cool, never noticeably warm . The silk tassels should be pale yellow and m oist. Select ears w ith plum p, juicy kernels that are tightly packed in even row s. Store unshucked ears in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no m ore than 1 day.

Swee t Corn Actually a grain whose la rge, fle shy se e d s a re cooke d a nd e a te n a s a ve ge ta ble, corn wa s first cultiva te d ne a rly 7,0 0 0 ye a rs a go in Ce ntral Am e rica . It is also known a s m aize a nd ha s long be e n cele bra te d a s one o f the m ost im porta nt food s in the world. Most e a rs found a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts a re te nd e r, high -sug a r va rie tie s with sm all yellow ke rnels. Look for spe cialty type s with white ke rnels; a com bina tion o f white, yellow, a nd re d ; or e ve n d e e p purplish blu e , a spe cia l hybrid prim a rily g rown in the Southwe st Unite d Sta te s a nd Me xico. Co rn love rs e a ge rly a n ticipa te its a rriva l a t m a rke ts during the sum m e r. Purists insist on cooking corn on the cob only until wa rm e d through, eithe r boile d or ste a m e d, to pre se rve its swe e tne ss a nd crunch. Cut from the cob, the fre sh ke rnels ca n be a dde d raw to sala d s a nd salsa s, cooke d until cre a m y for soups a nd chowde rs, de e p-frie d in fritte rs, or folde d into sa vory quickbre a d s a nd fillings.

WORKING WITH SWEET CORN Pull off the husk and silk from each ear. Snap the leaves off the bottom along w ith any rem aining stem or bend the leaves dow n to surround the stem to create a handle for serving the corncob whole. Strands of silk adhering to the kernels can be rem oved by scrubbing the ears under cold running water w ith a vegetable brush.

CHILE-RUBBED CORN ON THE COB

Chile-Rubbed Corn on the Cob

Corn Pudding with Chives

Risotto with Fresh Corn & Basil Oil

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

173 8 ears of corn, husks and silk rem oved

2–3 ears of corn, husks and silk rem oved

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 tsp chile pow der

2 Tbsp chopped fresh chives

1 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) thinly sliced leeks, w hite and pale green parts only

1

⁄2 tsp ground cum in

1

⁄8 tsp cayenne pepper

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) chicken broth Holding each ear of corn by its pointed end,

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, m elted Pull back the husks from each ear of corn but leave them attached to the base. Pull off and discard the silks. Rinse under cold cold water to cover. Let soak for 20 m inutes.

board, cut dow n along the ear w ith a sharp

11⁄2 cups (10 oz/ 330 g) short-grain rice such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano Salt and freshly ground pepper

knife to strip off the kernels, turning the ear w ith each cut. Then stand the ear upright on a plate or in a shallow bowl and scrape

2 Tbsp snipped fresh chives 4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) Basil Oil (page 262)

a spoon dow n each row to rem ove all of the pulp and juices, leaving behind the

Holding each ear of corn by its pointed

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct

kernel skins. You should have about 3 cups

end, and steadying its stalk end on a cutting

grilling over m edium -high heat ( or use

(18 oz/ 56 0 g) .

board, cut dow n along the ear w ith a sharp

a stovetop grill pan) . Oil the grill rack. 1

knife to strip off the kernels, turning the ear Put the corn in a nonstick saucepan and

In a sm all bow l, stir together ⁄2 tsp salt,

place over m edium heat. Add 1 ⁄4 tsp salt and

1

w ith each cut. Set aside.

bring to a sim m er. Cook, stirring often w ith

In a saucepan over m edium heat, m elt the

cayenne, and butter. Spread the butter

a wooden spoon, until one-third of the liquid

butter. Add the leeks and stir to coat. Cover,

m ixture on the corn and rew rap the husks

has evaporated and the consistency is thick,

reduce the heat to m edium -low, and cook

around them . Wrap each ear of corn in

8 –10 m inutes. The corn w ill bubble and

until translucent, about 5 m inutes.

alum inum foil.

sputter, but it should not boil vigorously. If

Pour the broth and 3 cups (24 fl oz/ 750 m l)

Place the corn on a grill rack about

you are not using a nonstick pan, a brow n

water into a saucepan and place over

4 inches (10 cm ) from the fire. Grill, turning

crust w ill form on the bottom and sides of

m edium heat. Adjust the heat to keep

occasionally, until tender, about 15 m inutes.

the pan. Do not try to scrape this off to m ix

the m ixture hot but not sim m ering.

⁄4 tsp black pepper, the chile powder, cum in,

it w ith the corn. Instead, sim ply stir the corn Rem ove the foil and arrange on a platter.

w ithout breaking up the crust.

Serve right away.

Raise the heat under the leeks to m edium , add the rice, and cook, stirring, until the

Stir in the chives and butter. Season

rice is translucent, about 3 m inutes. Begin

w ith salt and pepper.

adding the hot liquid 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l)

Spoon into a bowls and serve right away.

at a tim e, stirring constantly and adding m ore liquid only when the previous addition has been absorbed. After 10 m inutes, stir in the corn. It should take about 20 m inutes for the rice to absorb all the liquid and becom e al dente and cream y. If you need m ore liquid, use boiling water. Season w ith salt and pepper. Rem ove from the heat and stir in the chives and 2 Tbsp of the basil oil. Divide am ong bowls and top w ith the rem aining 2 Tbsp basil oil. Serve right away.

SW EET CO RN

running water and then place in a bowl w ith

and steadying its stalk end on a cutting

O TH ER VEGETABLES

6 ears of corn, husks intact

BUYING ARTICHOKES Artichokes should feel heavy for their size. Look for tightly closed, olive green leaves and m oist, healthy stem s. Som e m ay have black streaks, which indicate slight frost dam age, but this w ill not affect their flavor. Sprinkle artichokes w ith a few drops of water and store in a plastic bag in the coldest part of the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Artichokes Fe w ve ge ta ble s look a s forbidding a s the a rtichoke, or ha ve a s high a proportion o f ine dible m a tte r. Be ne a th its arm or of fibrous, thorny leave s, this ungainly thistle bud o ffe rs a culina ry tre a sure : a te nde r, delicious he a rt with a m ild fla vor. Na tive to the Me dite rra ne a n, a rtichoke s a re popula r a cross Italy, Fra nce, a nd Spain. The prim a ry a rtichoke se a son is in e a rly spring, followe d by a second, shorter season in late autumn or early winter. Artichoke s com e to m a rke t in wide ra nge o f size s, from tiny ba by a rtich o ke s te nd e r e n ough to e a t wh ole to im m e nse globe s tha t weigh ne a rly a pound e a ch. The easiest way to enjoy them is sim ply by steaming or boiling until te nde r a nd se rving with a fre sh he rb vinaigre tte or ga rlicky aioli for dipping. Trim m e d to the he a rt, they ca n be slice d a nd tosse d into sala d s or pa sta s, puré e d into soups or spre a d s, or use d whole a s a be d for poa che d e ggs or se a food sala d s.

WORKING WITH ARTICHOKES To trim an artichoke, start at the base, pulling off and discarding the tough outer leaves. Trim away the prickly tips of the rem aining leaves w ith kitchen shears. Use a serrated knife to slice off the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm ) to reveal the frilly choke, which should be scooped out with a spoon. Prevent discoloration after cutting the artichoke by it rubbing w ith fresh lem on juice.

Shaved Artichoke & Blue Cheese Salad

Steamed Artichokes with Dill Mayonnaise

Artichokes Stewed with Lemon & Garlic

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

2 lem ons, halved

4 m edium to large artichokes

2 lem ons

8 sm all to m edium artichokes

1 large egg yolk

18 sm all artichokes

4 Tbsp (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) olive oil

10 cloves garlic, halved

ARTICH O KES

O TH ER VEGETABLES

176

1

⁄4 cup ( ⁄2 oz/ 15 g) frisée 1

2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh dill

5 fresh thym e sprigs

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1–2 tsp fresh lem on juice

2 bay leaves

2 Tbsp crum bled blue cheese

Salt

1

⁄2 tsp salt

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

1

⁄3 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) alm onds,

toasted (page 264) and chopped

Pull off the tough outer leaves of each artichoke at the base of the stem . Trim

1 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Squeeze the juice of 2 lem on halves into a

the stem even w ith the base. Arrange the

large bowl of cold water. Add the peels. Pull

artichokes, stem end up, in a single layer

off the tough outer leaves of each artichoke

on a steam ing basket. Transfer to a pot, pour

until you reach the pale green inner leaves.

in 1 inch (2.5 cm ) of water, cover tightly, and

Fill a large bowl halfway w ith cold water.

Using a sm all knife, trim the dark green

bring to a boil. Steam , checking the water

Halve 1 lem on and squeeze the juice into

portions from the stem and base, and trim

level periodically, until the bottom s can be

the water. Working with 1 artichoke at a tim e,

the stem . Cut 1 inch (2.5 cm ) off from the

easily pierced w ith a knife, 30 – 4 0 m inutes.

break off the tough outer leaves to reach

tops. Halve the artichoke lengthw ise and

Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolk

using a sm all spoon, rem ove the fuzzy choke.

and 1 ⁄2 tsp water in a sm all bowl. When the

As the artichokes are trim m ed, im m erse them in the lem on water.

m ixture thickens and turns opaque, add the olive oil in a steady drizzle, w hisking

Slice the artichokes thinly lengthw ise. Put

constantly. Stir in the dill and lem on juice

in a bowl, drizzle w ith 2 Tbsp of the olive

and season w ith salt. If the m ayonnaise

oil, and toss well. Add the frisée, season

is too thick, add water.

w ith salt and pepper, drizzle w ith the rem aining 2 Tbsp olive oil, and squeeze the

Place the artichokes on a platter and serve right away w ith the m ayonnaise for dipping.

Using a vegetable peeler, rem ove the zest from the lem ons and set aside.

the pale green, tender inner leaves. Using a sm all knife, trim the dark green portions from the stem and base, and trim the stem . Cut 1 inch from the tops. Cut the artichoke in half lengthwise and slip the halves into the lem on water. Trim the rem aining artichokes in the sam e way. Drain the artichokes and place in a saucepan. Halve the rem aining lem on and squeeze

juice from 1 lem on half. Toss gently and

the juice into the saucepan. Add the reserved

season w ith salt and w ith m ore lem on juice,

lem on zest, the garlic, thym e sprigs, bay

if needed. Transfer to a platter, scatter the

leaves, salt, and olive oil. Add water to cover

blue cheese and alm onds on top, and

and place a piece of parchm ent ( baking)

serve right away.

paper the diam eter of the pan on top of the artichokes. Weight the parchm ent w ith a heatproof plate that rests directly on the artichokes. Bring to a boil over m edium -high heat, reduce the heat to m edium , and

BABY ARTICHOKES

FRIED BABY ARTICHOKES WITH AIOLI

The se sm a ll a rtichoke s a re g rown lowe r down

Break off the outer leaves of 12–16 baby

on the pla n t tha n the ir globe coun te rpa rts.

artichokes. Cut off the top one-fourth of the leaves,

or until tender when pierced w ith a knife.

The y should be olive g re e n in color a nd ha ve

and trim the stem s. Cut lengthwise into slices

Sprinkle the parsley on the top and serve

tigh tly clo se d le a ve s. The y ca n be a s tiny a s a

1

nu t a nd m a y no t ha ve de ve lope d choke s, bu t

⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) thick, and drop into water with the juice of 1 lem on. Warm 1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l)

you will still ne e d to trim the ste m s, pull o ff

olive oil in a frying pan over m edium -high heat.

the da rk ou te r le a ve s, a nd cu t a wa y the spiny

Fry the artichokes until crisp, 3 – 4 m inutes.

tops be fore co oking.

Transfer to paper towels and sprinkle with 1 tsp salt. Serve with Aioli ( page 139) .

sim m er for 5 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat and let cool in the pan, about 1 hour

right away.

ARTICHOKES STEWED WITH LEMON

GARLIC

Berries STRAW BERRIES

In contra st to fruits tha t have a single large pit or concentra tions of se e ds a t their center, berrie s are generally distinguishe d by

FRAISES DES BOIS BLACKBERRIES

tiny edible seeds dispersed throughout their flesh. Many varie ties grow on vine s or cane s, a term re ferring to slender, often thorny stem s. Som e berrie s, such a s blueberrie s and huckleberrie s, are

RASPBERRIES GOLDEN RASPBERRIES

grown on bushe s. Am ong the group of berrie s here, shiny re d cra nbe rrie s a re unu sua l, a s the y g row on bu she s in bog s or spe cial be ds, which are floode d in fall so the buoyant berrie s can be harvested. The intense swee tness and succulence of many

BLUEBERRIES HUCKLEBERRIES

of the se sm all fruits overshadow their sm all size. For e xam ple, whe n stra wbe rrie s, ra spbe rrie s, a nd bla ckbe rrie s a re a t the ir peak of ripene ss, they can be e xtraordinarily fragrant.

CRANBERRIES

Se ve ra l be rrie s, including ra spbe rrie s, stra wbe rrie s, a nd blackberrie s, are na tive to both the Old World and the New World a nd a re a lso found in Asia . In a ncie n t tim e s, pe ople ga the re d be rrie s in the wild, a nd though the cu stom is still followe d to day, the be rrie s found a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts a re m ostly cultiva te d. Two varie tie s, huckleberrie s and cranberrie s, origina te d in North Am erica. Be cause m ost berrie s are delica te, they are care fully harve ste d by hand when they m a ture in spring and sum m er.

BUYING STRAWBERRIES Choose sm all, fragrant strawberries with a rich, glossy red color and fresh, bright green caps. Avoid berries with white or green shoulders, shriveled caps, bruising, or wetness. Sm aller berries are typically sweeter in flavor. To store fully ripe berries for up to 2 days, place them in single layers between paper towels in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Strawberries Bursting with swe e t fla vor a nd ble sse d with a he a d y fra gra nce, vibra nt re d strawbe rrie s a re m e m be rs o f a la rge bo ta nical fa m ily tha t include s a pple s a nd pe a rs, ra spbe rrie s a nd bla ckbe rrie s. It de rive s its na m e from a n Anglo -Sa xon word m e a ning “spre a ding be rry,” for the a bunda nt, sprawling shoo ts tha t grow out from e a ch m o the r pla nt. Strawbe rrie s a re a m ong the first fruit to com e to m a rke t in spring a nd e a rly sum m e r. Othe r strawbe rry type s include the sm all, juicy alpine strawbe rry, also known a s fraises des bois in Fre nch, a nd the m usk strawbe rry. Shopping for strawbe rrie s a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts will le a d you to sim ila rly fla vorful be rrie s, a s local growe rs ca n cultiva te the se m ore delica te va rie tie s. Strawbe rrie s a re a m ong the m o st popula r fruits for e a ting fre sh ou t o f ha nd. The y a re a lso m a de in to ja m s, pile d on to ta rts, laye re d into cake s, a nd he a pe d on pa ncake s a nd wa ffle s.

WORKING WITH STRAWBERRIES Gently rinse the berries in cold water just before eating, as m oisture w ill encourage the grow th of m old. To rem ove their cap and hull, carve away the stem area w ith the tip of a sm all paring knife or straw berry huller. To bring out their juices for breakfast or dessert toppings, toss cut berries with sugar (about 1 tablespoon for every pint) and set aside for 30 m inutes.

BUYING BLACKBERRIES

RASPBERRIES

Look for berries that are shiny, bright, and plum p. Be sure to check the bottom of the container for fruit that is bruised, wet, or m oldy. Handle these fragile berries with care, and plan to use them as soon after purchasing as possible. If needed, refrigerate blackberries and raspberries in single layers on paper towels in an airtight container for no m ore than 1 day.

Blackberries Raspberries The first sighting o f plum p, elonga te d, m idnight-hue d bla ckbe rrie s a nd the delica te, cuppe d fruit o f ra spbe rrie s he ralds sum m e r’s swe e te st fla vors. Ra spbe rrie s te nd to ca rry ta rt fla vor qua litie s a nd a re typica lly sca rle t in color, though som e va rie tie s produce golde n fruit. Bla ckbe rrie s a nd ra spbe rrie s grow on thorny, ra m bling bushe s calle d bra m ble s a nd thrive in sunny fields a nd m e a dows a cross North Am e rica a nd Europe. Bo th a ppe a r a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts fro m la te spring to e a rly a u tum n a nd ta ste their be st during the height o f sum m e r. Ra spbe rrie s a nd bla ckbe rrie s ca n be substitute d for one a no the r or com bine d in re cipe s. They a re delicious whe n e a te n sim ply fre sh, bu t ca n a lso be sprinkle d ove r ice cream or fruit salads, baked into flaky pies, or transform ed into luscious, je wel-tone d ja m s.

WORKING WITH BLACKBERRIES

RASPBERRIES

Avoid washing the berries until just before use, as the excess m oisture will encourage the grow th of m old. To bring out their juices and sweeten their flavor, sprinkle the berries with a little sugar (about 1 tablespoon for every pint) , and then let them stand at room tem perature for 15 to 30 m inutes.

Fresh Strawberry & Spinach Salad

Strawberry–Crème Fraîche Ice Cream

Strawberry Cornmeal Shortcake

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

1 vanilla bean, split lengthw ise

3 cups (12 oz/ 375 g) straw berries, hulled and halved

184 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) rice vinegar

STRAW BERRIES

BERRIES

2 Tbsp sugar 2 tsp poppy seeds

1 cup each (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream and w hole m ilk 3

1

⁄2 tsp dry m ustard

Salt and freshly ground pepper 3

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) canola oil

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) sugar

Pinch of salt 4 large egg yolks 2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) straw berries, hulled and cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) pieces

2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) straw berries, hulled and sliced

1 tsp fresh lem on juice

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) thinly sliced red onion

1

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) pecans, toasted

(page 264) and coarsely chopped In a sm all bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar, poppy seeds, dry m ustard, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil, and continue to whisk until the vinaigrette is well com bined.

Fresh lem on juice 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream 1

6 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) baby spinach leaves

1

4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 60 g) sugar, or to taste

⁄4 tsp pure vanilla extract

Cornm eal Shortcake (page 263), baked into one 9-inch (23-cm ) round or six 2-inch (5-cm ) rectangles

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) crèm e fraîche In a large bowl, stir together the strawberries Com bine the vanilla seeds and pod, the

and 3 Tbsp of the sugar, or m ore to taste.

cream , m ilk, 1 ⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) of the

Let stand for 15 m inutes to let the berries

sugar, and the salt in a saucepan and bring

m acerate. Add lem on juice to taste.

to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Turn off the heat. In a large bowl, whisk the yolks. Whisk in 1 cup ( 8 fl oz/ 25 0 m l) of the warm cream m ixture to the egg yolks.

In another bowl, using a blender or whisk, beat the cream , rem aining 1 Tbsp sugar, and the vanilla until soft peaks form .

Add the yolk m ixture back to the cream

Spoon the berries and their juice over the

In a large bow l, toss together the spinach,

m ixture and cook over low heat, stirring, until

shortcake ( s) . Top w ith the w hipped cream

strawberries, onion slices, and pecans. Add

it coats the back of a spoon. Strain into a

and serve right away.

half of the vinaigrette and toss gently.

heatproof bow l and set into a bow l of ice

Add m ore vinaigrette as needed to lightly

water. Stir often until cool, about 30 m inutes.

coat the ingredients. Serve right away.

Purée half of the strawberries, the rem aining 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 6 0 g) sugar, and the lem on

juice in a food processor. Stir the purée and crèm e fraîche into the cream m ixture. Freeze in an ice cream m aker. Just before the ice cream is done, add the rem aining strawberries and finish freezing.

FRAISES DES BOIS

FRAISES DES BOIS PARFAIT

Also ca lle d wild, wo o d, or a lpine stra wbe rrie s,

In a large bowl, whisk together 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 fl oz/

chopped toasted alm onds ( page 264)

the se tiny fora ge d stra wbe rrie s origina ting

125 m l) cold heavy ( double) cream , 1 ⁄4 cup

evenly into each glass, then add another

from France have an inte nse arom a tha t be gins

( 1 oz/ 30 g) confectioners’ ( icing) sugar, 2 cups

layer of the fraises des bois to each. Finish

to fa d e a s so o n a s th e y a re picke d . Fraises des

( 16 oz/ 500 g) whole m ilk ricotta cheese and

each parfait with another layer of the ricotta

bois are e spe cially swe e t and m ake an a ttractive pre se n ta tion whe n u se d in ta rts, pa rfa its, or a s a sim ple ga rnish. Lo ok for the m in the spring, a nd u se the m a s you would stra wbe rrie s.

1 tsp pure vanilla extract until sm ooth. Set aside.

m ixture and sprinkle any leftover fraises des

Using 11 ⁄2 cups ( 6 oz/ 150 g) fraises des bois,

bois or alm onds on top. Makes 4 servings.

place half in the bottom of 4 parfait glasses. Divide half of the ricotta m ixture am ong each of the glasses. Divide 1 cup ( 5 oz/ 1 5 5 g)

STR W A BERRY CORNMEAL SHORTCAKE

BABY ARUGULA SALAD WITH BERRIES

GORGONZOLA

Breakfast Polenta with Blackberries

Baby Arugula Salad with Berries & Gorgonzola

Mixed Berry Cobbler with Cinnamon

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

6 cups (1 ⁄2 lb/ 750 g) m ixed blackberries and raspberries

187 1

⁄2 cup (5 ⁄2 fl oz/ 170 m l) m aple syrup 1

2 Tbsp balsam ic vinegar

1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) coarse-ground polenta

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) w hole m ilk

6 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) baby arugula (rocket)

1

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) m ascarpone

1

⁄2 lb (250 g) firm blue cheese, crum bled

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) plus 2 Tbsp sugar

2 Tbsp all-purpose (plain) flour 1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice 1

In a sm all bowl, whisk together the oil,

Preheat the oven to 425°F (2 20 °C) . Lightly

vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.

butter a shallow 2-qt (2-l) baking dish.

(24 fl oz/ 75 0 m l) water and the salt to a

Place the arugula in a bow l. Add the

In a large saucepan over m edium -high heat,

boil. In a sm all bowl, stir together the polenta

cheese and toss to com bine. Drizzle with

warm the berries, the 1 ⁄2 cup sugar (4 oz/

and m ilk. Gradually stir into the boiling

the dressing and toss to coat evenly. Divide

125 g) , flour, lem on juice, and cinnam on

water. Stirring constantly, bring the m ixture

am ong serving plates, top with the berries,

until the juice begins to boil. Let cool.

back to a boil, about 2 m inutes. Reduce

and serve right away.

the heat to m edium -low and cook, stirring

Make this salad into a m ain course by adding Grilled Marinated Red Onions ( page 136) and thinly sliced grilled steak.

In a sm all saucepan over low heat, warm the m aple syrup. Keep warm . In a large, heavy saucepan, bring 3 cups

often, until the polenta is thick and cream y, about 2 5 m inutes. Add up to 1 ⁄2 cup

Pour the berry m ixture into the prepared dish, spreading evenly. Arrange the cobbler topping evenly on top, then sprinkle with the 2 Tbsp sugar.

(4 fl oz/ 12 5 m l) water, 1 Tbsp at a tim e, Bake until the filling is bubbling and the

if the polenta begins to stick. ( Be careful,

topping is golden brow n, about 25 m inutes.

as the hot polenta can bubble and spatter.)

Let cool to room tem perature and serve Divide the polenta am ong 4 shallow bowls.

right away.

Drizzle each serving with 2 Tbsp of the warm m aple syrup and top with about 2 Tbsp of the m ascarpone. Top with the blackberries and serve right away.

GOLDEN RASPBERRIES

GOLDEN RASPBERRY TART

Ha rd e r to fin d th a n th e ir re d -co lo re d

Process 8 graham crackers in a food processor

( 8 oz/ 250 g) room -tem perature m ascarpone,

co u n te rpa rts, go ld e n ra spbe rrie s lo o k

until fine crum bs form . Add 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g)

1 tsp pure vanilla extract, and 1 ⁄3 cup ( 1 1 ⁄2 oz/

sim ila r to re d ra spbe rrie s e xce pt tha t the ir

unsalted butter, m elted, and 2 Tbsp light brown

45 g) confectioners’ ( icing) sugar and beat

co lo r ra n ge s fro m pa le ye llo w to d e e p

sugar and process until com bined. Transfer

until fluffy. Spread the m ixture evenly over the

go ld a n d th e y h a ve a sligh tly swe e te r,

to a 9 -inch ( 23-cm ) tart pan with a rem ovable

cooled crust. Place 4 cups ( 1 lb/ 500 g) golden

hone y-like fla vor. Golde n ra spbe rrie s a re

bottom . Press into the bottom and up the sides

raspberries on top of the m ascarpone. Heat

in se a son only for a fe w we e ks during the

of the pan. Bake in a preheated 350°F ( 180°C)

1

sum m e r. Sna p the m up if you se e the m a t

oven until set, about 1 0 m inutes. Let cool

water. Brush over the fruit. Makes 6–8 servings.

the m a rke t, a s the ir se a son is ve ry short.

com pletely on a rack. In a bowl, beat 1 cup

⁄4 cup ( 2 1 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) apricot jelly with 1 tsp



RASPBERRIES

Cobbler Crust (page 263)

BLACKBERRI ES

⁄4 tsp ground cinnam on

1 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) fresh blackberries or blueberries

1 cup (4 oz/ 120 g) blackberries

BERRIES

1 ⁄2 tsp salt 1

1

BUYING BLUEBERRIES For the freshest fruit, look for firm , dry, and sm ooth blueberries that retain a powdery white bloom on their surfaces. They can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week or frozen to enjoy during the off-season. Freeze blueberries in a single layer on a baking sheet and then transfer them to an airtight container.

Blueberries The sm oo th, da rk blue sphe re s o f blue be rrie s ra nge in size from the dia m e te r o f a sm all pe a up to a m a rble. The sm alle st ye t m ost inte nsely fla vore d va rie tie s grow wild on low-growing bushe s in colde r clim a te s. Wild blue be rrie s from Maine a nd Nova Sco tia a re le ge nda ry a m ong cooks, who prize the m for their com ple xity a nd richne ss in pie s, cobble rs, a nd ja m s. Som e fa rm e rs ha ve succe e de d in cultiva ting close cousins o f the se wild va rie tie s. Look for the se sm alle r, da rke r blue be rrie s in m a rke ts during the m id-sum m e r m onths to e njoy their bala nce o f ta rtne ss a nd swe e tne ss. Blue be rrie s a re e spe cially popula r a t the bre akfa st ta ble. The y ca n be fold e d e a sily in to ba tte rs for pa nca ke s, coffee cakes, or muffins, and spooned over waffles, yogurt, or ce re al. Like m a ny o f their cousins in the be rry fa m ily, blue be rrie s shine be autifully in ta rts, pie s, ice cre a m , a nd o the r colorful de sse rts.

WORKING WITH BLUEBERRIES Ripe blueberries are fragile and should be handled with care. If any stem s rem ain, pinch them off and discard. Rinse the berries with cool water just before using and let drain on paper towels. To encourage even distribution in m uffin or cake batters, gently toss the berries while still m oist with a sm all am ount of flour reserved from the recipe before folding them in.

BUYING CRANBERRIES Ranging from light red to deep scarlet, cranberries should be plum p, firm , shiny, and dry. Avoid berries that are shriveled or have a dull skin. Cranberries can be stored in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for at least 1 m onth. They can also be frozen for up to 10 m onths.

Cranberries One o f the fe w fruits na tive to North Am e rica, the bright re d, round cra nbe rry is a n in te g ra l pa rt o f Am e rica n co o king. Cra nbe rry re lishe s, je llie s a nd sa uce s provid e e sse n tia l coun te rpoin ts o f re fre shing ta rtne ss in the holiday fe a sts o f the autum n a nd winte r m onths. Na tive to we tla nd a re a s, cra nbe rrie s a re now ha rve ste d from spe cia lly flo o de d fie ld s a cro ss the northe rn re gion s o f the contine nt. Look for fre sh, whole cra nbe rrie s throughout the la te autum n a nd e a rly winte r m onths. For swe e t a nd sa vory pre pa ra tio n s, the y m a rry we ll with nu ts, g ra in s, a nd o the r a u tum n fruits such a s a pple s a nd pe a rs. To o sour a nd a stringe nt to e a t raw on their own, the be rrie s typically a ppe a r with swe e t ingre die nts to bala nce their a sse rtive fla vors. Som e fa rm e rs dry their cra nbe rrie s a nd o ffe r the m a s colorful alte rna tive s to raisins for pila fs, fillings, bre a ds, a nd de sse rts.

WORKING WITH CRANBERRIES Rinse cranberries in cold water just before using. Discard any that show brow n spots or feel soft to the touch. Chop them while fresh to cook in pilafs and fillings. For a sm oother texture, sim m er cranberries in stock, wine, liqueur, orange juice, or water until they burst. There is no need to thaw frozen cranberries before cooking them .

Buttermilk Blueberry Pancakes

Blueberry-Vanilla Panna Cotta

Blueberry Summer Pudding

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

2 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

2 1⁄2 tsp (1 package) unflavored gelatin

6 cups (11⁄2 lb/ 750 g) blueberries

BERRIES

190

2 tsp baking pow der 1 tsp each baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) and salt

BLU EBERRI ES

2 large eggs 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) butterm ilk 4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 60 g) unsalted butter, m elted and cooled, plus extra for greasing

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) w hole m ilk

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) heavy (double) cream 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) sugar

1 vanilla bean

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) granulated sugar

1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice 2 tsp finely grated lem on zest Pinch of salt 1 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 tsp pure vanilla extract 2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) blueberries, plus extra for garnish

2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) blueberries In a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the m ilk.

12 slices challah, about 1⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream 2 Tbsp confectioners’ (icing) sugar

In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking

Let stand for about 2 m inutes. In a saucepan

powder, baking soda, and salt. In another

over m edium heat, stir together the cream

bowl, beat together the eggs and butterm ilk.

and sugar. Using a sm all knife, split the

In a large saucepan, com bine 2 cups

Mix the liquids into the dry ingredients with

vanilla bean in half lengthw ise. Scrape

( 8 oz/ 2 5 0 g) of the blueberries, the

a large wooden spoon until a sm ooth batter

the seeds into the cream and add the pod.

granulated sugar, lem on juice and zest,

form s. Fold in the 4 Tbsp (2 oz/ 6 0 g)

Heat, stirring, until sm all bubbles appear

and the salt and bring to a boil over high

m elted butter and the blueberries.

around the edges of the pan. Let cool briefly.

heat. Reduce the heat to m edium , and

Preheat a large frying pan over m edium -

Rem ove the vanilla bean. Slowly add the

high heat. Brush w ith m elted butter. For

warm cream to the gelatin m ixture, stirring

each pancake, ladle 2 Tbsp of the batter,

constantly until dissolved. Stir in the vanilla

form ing circles 4 –5 inches (10 –13 cm )

extract and 2 cups blueberries and then

in diam eter. Cook until brow ned on the

pour into four ⁄4 -cup ( 6 – fl oz/ 18 0 -m l)

bottom and bubbles appear on the surface,

ram ekins, dividing evenly. Cover and

about 3 m inutes. Turn and cook until

refrigerate for 4 hours or up to overnight.

lightly brow ned on the second side, about 3 m inutes longer. Transfer to a plate and keep warm in a low oven. Brush the pan with m ore butter as needed between

3

Run a thin knife around the inside of each ram ekin, and invert onto a dessert plate. Garnish with blueberries and serve right away.

batches. Serve right away.

1

⁄2 tsp ground cinnam on

cook, stirring occasionally and gently crushing som e of the berries as they soften, until the berries are juicy and thickened, 6 – 8 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat and stir in the rem aining 4 cups (1 lb/ 5 0 0 g) berries and the vanilla. Line a 6 -cup (4 8 – fl oz/ 1.5 -l) bowl with plastic wrap, leaving a 3 -inch ( 7.5 -cm ) overhang. Line the prepared bowl with the bread, covering it com pletely and cutting the bread so that it fits in a single layer. Pour in the berry m ixture and top with the rem aining bread slices to cover com pletely. Cover with the overhanging plastic wrap and then w ith a plate just slightly sm aller than the diam eter of the bowl. Weight with a can.

HUCKLEBERRIES

HUCKLEBERRY CRISP

Refrigerate overnight or for up to 24 hours.

A clo se re la tive o f the blue be rry, huckle be rrie s

Stir together 2 ⁄3 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) sugar, 1 ⁄4 cup

To serve, in a bow l, w hip the cream ,

a re a lso ca lle d wh o rtle be rrie s. Th e y te n d to

( 11 ⁄2 oz/ 45 g) flour, 1 ⁄8 tsp salt, 1 Tbsp grated

confectioners’ sugar, and cinnam on until

be se e dier and a little tarter. One varie ty grows

orange zest, and 1 tsp pure vanilla extract. Scatter

soft peaks form . Rem ove the can, plate,

o n th e Ea st Co a st a n d a n o th e r o n th e We st

the sugar m ixture over 6 cups ( 11 ⁄2 lb/ 750 g)

and plastic wrap from the pudding. Unm old

Co a st o f the Unite d Sta te s. Use the m in re cipe s

huckleberries and m ix well. Pour into a 10-inch

tha t ca ll for blue be rrie s or for sa uce s for wild

(25-cm ) buttered baking dish. Pat Crisp Topping

ga m e . Lo ok for the m in the sum m e r whe n

( page 2 6 3 ) evenly over the top. Bake in a

o the r be rrie s a re in se a son a t the m a rke t.

350°F (180°C) oven until the topping is golden brown, 25–30 m inutes. Makes 4 servings.

onto a plate. Cut the wedges and serve right away with the whipped cream .

BLUEBERRY-VANILLA PANNA COTTA

TART CRANBERRY SORBET

Fresh Cranberry Scones

CranberryOrange Relish

Tart Cranberry Sorbet

M AKES 10 –12 SCONES

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

193 1 thin-skinned orange w ith peel intact, cut into 8 w edges

11⁄2 Tbsp sugar

3 cups ( 3⁄4 lb/ 375 g) cranberries

1

1

⁄2 tsp baking pow der

1

⁄4 tsp salt

3

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) sugar, or to taste

2 cups (8 oz/ 250 g) cranberries 1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) cranberry juice

11⁄2 cups (10 1⁄2 oz/ 330 g) superfine (caster) sugar In a sm all saucepan over m edium -low heat,

then cut each wedge in half crosswise. In

heat the cranberries and cranberry juice,

a food processor, finely com bine half of the

stirring occasionally, until the cranberries

1 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) cranberries

orange pieces, the cranberries, and 3 ⁄4 cup

pop, 5 –7 m inutes. Stir in the sugar until it

1 egg, lightly beaten

sugar. Transfer to a bow l. Repeat w ith the

has dissolved. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate

2 Tbsp fresh orange juice

rem aining orange pieces, cranberries, and

until well chilled, about 2 hours.

sugar. Add to the bow l. Taste and add Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . In a bow l, w hisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the butter w ith a pastry blender or 2 knives until the m ixture resem bles rolled oats. Stir in the cranberries. Using a fork, m ix in the egg and orange juice until a soft dough form s. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a round 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick. Using a 2-inch ( 5 -cm ) round cookie cutter, cut out as m any rounds as possible. Gather the dough scraps, roll out again, and cut m ore rounds. Place on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake until lightly golden, about 15 m inutes. Watch carefully so that the bottom s do not burn. Transfer to a rack and let cool, 2–3 m inutes. Serve warm .

m ore sugar, if the relish is too tart. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. This relish is a delicious accompaniment to simple pan-seared turkey cutlets or chicken breasts, or as a condim ent for traditional roast turkey.

Pour the cranberry m ixture into an icecream m aker and freeze according to the m anufacturer’s instructions. Serve right away. For a firm er texture, pack into freezerproof containers and freeze until firm , about 3 hours.

CRAN BERRIES

Rem ove any seeds from the orange wedges,

7 Tbsp (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) chilled unsalted butter, cut into sm all pieces

BERRIES

1 ⁄2 cups (7 ⁄2 oz/ 235 g) all-purpose (plain) flour 1

Citrus LEMONS

The fam ily of flowering plants cla ssifie d a s citrus are m arke d by pulpy fle sh and slightly bum py skin with yellow, orange, and

MEYER LEMONS LIMES

re d tone s. They grow on tre e s or large shrubs with e vergre en leave s tha t also produce intensely scente d white flowers. Nearly all parts of a citrus fruit—the fle sh, the juice, and the ze st—are

KEY LIMES ORANGES

consum e d or use d in cooking. The fle sh can be tart, like tha t of m ost lem ons and grape fruits, or swe e t, like tha t of orange s and tangerine s. Even individual varie tie s of a fruit, such a s pom elos,

BLOOD ORANGES TANGERINES

can range from swe e t to plea singly acidic. Analysis of fossil re cords sugge sts tha t citrus fruits are am ong the oldest known fruits. Most citrus fruits familiar today originated

MANDARINS SATSUMA MANDARINS

in Asia and gradually spread to Europe and the Am erica s. The tre e s thrive in tropical and tem pera te clim a te s, such a s area s of China, the Me diterranean, South Am erica, and the Unite d Sta te s including Florida, Te xa s, Arizona, and parts of California. Many

GRAPEFRUITS POMELOS

citrus hybrids have be en discovere d or intentionally propaga te d. The popular swe e t-tart Meyer lem on, for instance, is belie ve d to be a cross be twe en a lem on and a m andarin orange. In those re gions where citrus fruits can be grown, a type of citrus is being harve ste d in e very sea son.

BUYING LEMONS Choose lem ons that feel heavy for their size and are free from soft spots. Lem ons with sm ooth, glossy rinds offer the m ost juice, while fruits with thick skin will m ore easily give generous am ounts of zest. Store lem ons in a basket at room tem perature for up to 1 week, or refrigerate them in a plastic bag for up to 1 m onth. Lem on juice can also be frozen for up to 6 m onths.

Lemons Le m ons ha ve long be e n im porta nt in kitche ns a round the world a nd play a funda m e ntal role in the cuisine s o f the Me dite rra ne a n re gion. The fruit’s ta rt juice a nd a rom a tic, oil-rich ze st contribute fla vor to countle ss dishe s. Sm all a nd oval in sha pe, the le m on wa s first cultiva te d in tropical re gions o f Asia . Lisbon a nd Eure ka a re the m ost popula r va rie tie s a m ong growe rs for their la rge fruit, distinct sourne ss, a nd thick, pro te ctive piths. The sm alle r, rounde r, m ore fra gile Meye r le m on ha s a floral fra gra nce a nd swe e te r fla vor. Th ough wid e ly a va ila ble through ou t the ye a r, le m o n s com e to pe ak se a son in the winte r a nd e a rly spring in the m ild clim a te s whe re they a re grown. They brighte n soups, finish sauce s, m arina te m ea ts, garnish vege table s, and flavor re fre shing drinks and cla ssic cocktails. Lem on’s fruity ta rtne ss m ake s it one o f the m ost popula r fla vors for swe e ts a nd de sse rts.

WORKING WITH LEMONS For the m ost juice, bring a lem on to room tem perature, roll it firm ly against a hard surface, and then use a citrus ream er to extract every last drop. A rasp grater is best for obtaining fine, arom atic shreds of lem on rind free of any pith. A vegetable peeler is useful for creating wide ribbons of lem on zest. Use a sharp knife to cut the fruit into slices or wedges.

BUYING LIMES Buy sm ooth, glossy lim es w ith a dark green rind that are plum p and heavy for their size. Avoid lim es w ith dull skin or soft spots. Store at room tem perature for 3 to 5 days or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 m onth. Lim e juice can also be frozen for up to 6 m onths.

Limes Sm alle r tha n le m ons, the fruits o f the e ve rgre e n lim e tre e ha ve a distinctive swe e tne ss tha t te m pe rs their ta rtne ss. Their gre e n ze st o ffe rs a fra gra nt, alm ost floral a rom a . Lim e s a re a n e sse ntial souring ingre die nt in the cuisine s o f La tin Am e rica, Africa, India, Southe a st Asia, a nd the Pa cific Isla nds. The m ost com m on va rie ty sold in North Am e rica a nd Europe is the round, da rk gre e n Pe rsia n lim e (also known a s Ta hitia n lim e ) tha t grows in tropical zone s. Key lim e s, the sta r o f Florida’s fa m ous pie s, a nd Me xica n lim e s, a re m uch sm a lle r a nd m ore delica te tha n the Pe rsia n lim e. Tiny cala m a nsi lim e s ha ve ora nge fle sh a nd fra g ra n t, sour juice tha t sm e lls a nd ta ste s o f ta nge rine s. Lim e s a re a t their pe ak fla vor from la te sum m e r to la te a u tum n. The ir sour, sligh tly bitte r juice hold s up we ll in sa vory dishe s such a s ce viche, de sse rts such a s lim e curd ba rs, a nd in countle ss drinks a nd cocktails.

WORKING WITH LIMES Juice lim es as you would lem ons: bring the fruit to room tem perature and then roll firm ly against a hard, flat surface. They tend to give less juice than lem ons. Use a ream er to extract as m uch juice as possible and strain out any seeds before using. A rasp grater is essential for obtaining lim e zest without any bitter pith, as their rind is very thin.

Fusilli with Lemon Zest & Ricotta

Sautéed Snapper Fillets with Caramelized Lemons

Lemon Sorbet with Fresh Basil

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

1 Tbsp olive oil

4 snapper fillets, about 6 oz (180 g) each, skin rem oved

11⁄2 cups (12 oz/ 375 g) sugar

198

LEM O N S

CITRU S

1 Tbsp m inced garlic 1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) ricotta cheese 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream 1 Tbsp grated Meyer lem on zest plus extra for garnish 2 tsp fresh lem on juice Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lb (500 g) dried fusilli pasta

Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp unsalted butter

1

⁄2 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh basil leaves

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) fresh lem on juice Pinch of salt

3 Tbsp olive oil 1 fennel bulb, trim m ed, cored and thinly sliced 1 lem on, cut into slices 1⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick 1

⁄2 tsp sugar

In a saucepan over m edium -high heat, cook 2 1 ⁄2 cups (20 fl oz/ 625 m l) water, the sugar, and half of the basil leaves, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, 3 – 4 m inutes. Let cool com pletely. Strain the resulting sugar syrup into a bow l and discard the basil. Stir in the

2 tsp m inced fresh dill

lem on juice and the salt.

Sprinkle the fillets generously with salt and

Transfer the m ixture to an ice cream m aker

pepper. In a large nonstick frying pan over

and freeze according to the m anufacturer’s

m edium -high heat, m elt 1 Tbsp of the

instructions. About 10 m inutes before the

butter with 1 Tbsp of the oil. Add the fennel

sorbet is done, cut the rem aining basil

and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook,

into thin ribbons. Add the basil to the ice

Add the ricotta, cream , 1 Tbsp lem on zest,

stirring, until the fennel is just tender, about

cream m aker and finish freezing the sorbet.

lem on juice, a pinch of salt, and 1 tsp

5 m inutes. Transfer to a platter and cover

Serve right away.

pepper to the bowl.

w ith alum inum foil. Add the rem aining

For a firm er texture, pack into freezerproof containers and freeze until firm , about 3 hours.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. In a sm all frying pan over m edium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and sauté until golden brow n, 2–3 m inutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Add the fusilli to the boiling water and cook until al dente, 8 –10 m inutes or according to the package directions. Drain and return to the pot. Add the ricotta m ixture and stir

1 Tbsp butter and another 1 Tbsp of oil to the pan. Add the fillets, skin side dow n, and cook, turning once, until opaque, 2–3 m inutes on each side. Place on top of the fennel.

well. Heat over m edium heat for 1–2 m inutes.

Add the rem aining 1 Tbsp olive oil and

Spoon into individual bowls, garnish with

the lem on slices to the pan. Sprinkle with the

lem on zest and serve right away.

sugar and cook, stirring, until the lem ons are golden, 2–3 m inutes. Scatter the caram elized lem ons over the fish and fennel, and add any juices from the pan. Sprinkle with the dill and serve right away.

MEYER LEMONS

MEYER LEMON CURD

The Meyer lem on, a hybrid im ported from China,

In the top of a double boiler, whisk together

a spoon, about 12 m inutes. Rem ove from

wa s discove re d in 19 0 8 . It now prolife ra te s in

3 large eggs; 3 large egg yolks; 3 ⁄4 cup ( 6 fl oz/

over the water and strain through a fine-m esh

Ca lifornia a nd o the r Me dite rra ne a n clim a te s

180 m l) Meyer lem on juice, strained; and 1 cup

sieve placed over a bowl. Let cool, cover,

a nd is be lie ve d to be a cro ss be twe e n a Eure ka

( 8 oz/ 2 5 0 g) sugar until the sugar dissolves.

and place in the refrigerator for 3–5 hours

le m o n a n d a m a n d a rin o ra n ge , a s hin te d a t

Place over (not touching) barely sim m ering water

to thicken. The curd will keep in the

by its ro u n d e r sh a pe , ye llo w o ra n ge co lo r,

and add 6 Tbsp ( 3 oz/ 90 g) unsalted butter, cut

refrigerator for up to 3 days. Use as a spread

swe e te r fla vor, a nd flowe ry fra g ra nce . It’s pe a k

into 3 ⁄4 -inch ( 2-cm ) cubes. Using a large wooden

for scones and m uffins or stir into whipped

se a sons are winter through spring. Use in savory

spoon, stir constantly until the butter m elts and

cream and serve with fresh strawberries.

dishe s a nd de sse rts.

the m ixture is thick enough to coat the back of

Makes 1 cup ( 9 oz/ 280 g) .

FUSILLI WITH LEMON ZEST

RICOTTA

LIME CURD BARS WITH COCONUT CRUST

Ceviche with Lime & Herbs

Lime & White Chocolate Mousse

Lime Curd Bars with Coconut Crust

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 2 DOZEN BARS

201

11⁄3 cups (11 fl oz/ 330 m l) fresh lim e juice 1

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) m inced w hite onion

1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) m inced fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)

1

2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh m int Salt and freshly ground pepper Tortilla chips for serving

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

2 Tbsp fresh lim e juice

lim e juice, onion, and jalapeño. Cover and refrigerate until the fish is opaque throughout, 30 – 6 0 m inutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fish, onions, and jalapeño to another bow l, leaving the liquid behind. Stir in the avocado, cilantro, m int, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Taste, and add som e of the m arinade if desired for m ore acidity. Serve right away with the tortilla chips.

1

⁄3 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) light brow n sugar

2 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose (plain) flour Grated zest of 1 lim e, plus extra for garnish

11⁄2 Tbsp finely grated lim e zest

1

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) shredded dried coconut

Pinch of coarse salt

1

⁄4 tsp salt

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) heavy (double) cream

1 3⁄4 cups (14 oz/ 440 g) granulated sugar 1 Tbsp cornstarch (cornflour)

Put the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl. In a sm all saucepan over m edium -high heat, cook the sugar, 3 Tbsp water, the lim e juice, half of the lim e zest, and the salt, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves,

In a bow l, stir together the fish pieces,

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 tsp baking pow der 4 large eggs 3

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) fresh lim e juice

Confectioners’ (icing) sugar for dusting

2–3 m inutes. Pour over the chocolate, let stand for 1 m inute, and then stir until

Preheat the oven to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Line

sm ooth. Let stand at room tem perature,

a 9 -by-13 -inch (2 3 -by-33 -cm ) baking dish

about 15 m inutes.

with alum inum foil, overhanging the edges by 1 inch (2.5 cm ) . In a m ixer fitted with

In a bowl, whip the cream until it holds stiff peaks. Gently fold the cream into the white chocolate m ixture. Transfer to 6 serving dishes. Garnish with the rem aining lim e zest. Serve right away (for a thicker, denser m ousse, cover and refrigerate 4 – 6 hours

the paddle attachm ent, beat the butter and brow n sugar until fluffy, 3 – 4 m inutes. Add the flour, half of the lim e zest, coconut, and half of the salt and m ix until the dough just holds together. Press into the pan and prick with a fork. Bake until golden, 20 –25 m inutes.

before garnishing and serving.) In the m ixer, com bine the granulated sugar, cornstarch, baking powder, and rem aining lim e zest and salt. Slow ly beat in the eggs and lim e juice. Pour into the crust. Bake for 20 –25 m inutes. Cool and then refrigerate until set, 1–2 hours. Cut into 24 bars and dust with confectioners’ sugar and lim e zest.

KEY LIMES

KEY LIME PIE

Grown in sou the rn Florida a nd Me xico,

Process 8 gingersnaps in a food processor until

7 large egg yolks and 4 tsp key lim e zest. Add

Ke y lim e s, a re sm a ll, round fruits tha t ha ve

fine crum bs form . Add 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g)

2 cans ( 14 fl oz/ 430 m l) sweetened condensed

a thin, le a the ry skin, a ye llowish rind, a nd

unsalted butter, m elted, and 2 Tbsp light brown

m ilk and 1 cup ( 8 fl oz/ 250 m l) fresh Key lim e

g re e n fle sh with a n a bunda nce o f se e d s.

sugar and process until com bined. Transfer to a

juice, strained ( from about 24 lim es) and whisk

Extre m e ly ta rt, Ke y lim e s le nd the ir fla vor

9-inch ( 23-cm ) pie pan. Press into the bottom

again until well blended. Pour the filling into the

a nd na m e to the fa m ou s pie a nd ca n a lso

and up the sides of the pan. Bake in a preheated

graham cracker crust. Bake until the filling is firm

be u se d in o the r de sse rts, such a s lim e

350°F ( 180°C) oven until the crust is set, about

in the center 20–24 m inutes. Transfer to a wire

curd ba rs. Lo ok for the m in the sum m e r.

10 m inutes. Let cool com pletely on a rack.

rack and let cool. Refrigerate until firm , 2–3 hours.

Keep the oven on. In a bowl, whisk together

Serve with whipped cream . Makes 8 servings.

LI M ES

1 red jalapeño chile, m inced

8 oz (250 g) good-quality w hite chocolate, finely chopped

CITRU S

1 lb (500 g) boneless firm w hite-fleshed fish, such as snapper or halibut, cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) pieces

BUYING ORANGES The juiciest oranges are heavy for their size and have firm , sm ooth skins free of bruising, m old, deep wrinkles, or soft spots. Valencia oranges m ay sport green-tinged areas, which will not affect their flavor. Better quality navel oranges have sm aller, tighter navels. Oranges can be stored at room tem perature for several days or refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 3 weeks.

Oranges First cultiva te d in China ove r 2 ,0 0 0 ye a rs a go, ora nge tre e s now grow in m ild clim a te s a round the world. Ma ny va rie tie s o f the fruit fall into two broa d ca te gorie s: swe e t a nd bitte r. Am ong the m ost popula r swe e t ora nge is the Vale ncia, conside re d be st for juicing be cause o f its thin skin and juicy pulp. Navel orange s are swe e t, ea sy to pe el, a nd ide al for e a ting out o f ha nd. Blo o d ora nge s ha ve distinctive de e p re d colore d fle sh a nd swe e t fla vor. The two most common bitter oranges are Seville and Bergamot. Ora nge s a re in pe ak se a son during la te winte r a nd e a rly spring. In La tin Am e rica , ora nge juice is the ba se o f m a rina de s for m e a t and sea food. In Europe, its candie d pe e l a ppe a rs in d e sse rts a nd h olid a y bre a d s, while throughout Asia, ora nge s a re give n a s auspicious gifts. Bitte r ora nge s ha ve a punge nt sourne ss tha t holds up to suga r. Their pe els a re use d to m ake m a rm ala de s, lique urs a nd confe ctions.

WORKING WITH ORANGES Before peeling an orange, squeeze it between your palm s or roll it on a countertop, pressing dow n firm ly. This will m ake the orange a little juicier and easier to peel. To juice an orange, cut the orange in half and use a juicer or ream er to extract the liquid. To rem ove the zest from an orange or to segm ent oranges, see page 26 4.

BUYING TANGERINES

MANDARINS

Choose fruits that are deep in color, heavy for their size, and free of dull or soft spots. Although som e will have loose skins, avoid those that appear overly bum py, which indicates that they are overripe. The fruits will keep at room tem perature for up to 1 week or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 m onth.

Tangerines Mandarins Na m e d a fte r o fficials in Chine se im pe rial courts who once wore ora nge robe s a nd he a dpie ce s toppe d with la rge, round buttons, m a nda rins te nd to be sm alle r a nd slightly fla tte r in sha pe tha n ora nge s. Ta nge rine s, m ost no ta bly the re d-ora nge Da rcy from Florida, a re the m ost re cogniza ble cla ss within the m a nda rin fa m ily. Othe r popula r m e m be rs include the Sa tsum a, originally from Ja pa n; the sm oo th, se e dle ss Cle m e ntine widely grown in Alge ria a nd Spain; a nd ta ngelos such a s the honeyfla vore d Minne ola ta ngelo. Like o the r citrus fruit, they com e to m a rke t from e a rly winte r to e a rly spring. They a re ide al for fla voring a nd ga rnishing de sse rts such a s ice cre a m , sorbe ts, custa rds, a nd cre a m -fille d cake s a nd pa strie s. They also shine in delica te sauce s for fish, pork, chicke n, a nd duck.

WORKING WITH TANGERINES

MANDARINS

Juice m andarins as you would other citrus: bring them to room tem perature, cut them in half, use a ream er or juicer attachm ent, and strain seeds and m em branes before adding to recipes. Their segm ents should be added at the end of cooking and just heated through to preserve their delicate texture. To segm ent the fruits, see page 26 4.

Orange & Red Onion Salad

Pan-Seared Scallops with Sautéed Oranges

Orange Custard with Caramelized Oranges

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

6 navel oranges, segm ented (page 264), w ith juice reserved

1 each navel orange and blood orange, w ith juice reserved

3

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) sugar

1

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) cornstarch (cornflour)

CITRU S

1

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb (500 g) large sea scallops

O RAN GES

204

2 hearts rom aine (cos) lettuce, cut crossw ise into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) pieces

1 Tbsp olive oil

⁄2 tsp grainy m ustard

1 sm all red onion, thinly sliced Sm all w edge of aged hard cheese, such as Pecorino

Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄2 tsp ground cum in

2 tsp sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean, split lengthw ise 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 m l) w hole m ilk 1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) heavy (double) cream

3 large egg yolks 1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) fresh orange juice

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 tsp chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)

Pinch of salt

Cut the oranges into thin rounds. In a sm all

1

1 navel orange

2 Tbsp m inced fresh chives

⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon

Place 2 Tbsp of the orange juice in a sm all

dish, com bine a pinch each of salt and

bowl. Add the m ustard and a generous pinch

pepper with the cum in. Sprinkle the scallops

In a saucepan, whisk together 1 ⁄2 cup

each of salt and pepper. Whisking constantly,

with the seasoning m ixture. In a frying pan

(4 oz/ 125 g) of the sugar and the cornstarch.

slowly add the oil until well com bined.

over m edium -high heat, warm the olive oil.

Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean

Cook until brow ned on the bottom side,

and add to the pan with the pod. Whisk in

1–2 m inutes. Turn and cook on the other

the m ilk and cream . Bring to a boil over

side until just firm to the touch and still

m edium -high heat, then reduce the heat

a bit translucent in the center, 1–2 m inutes

to m edium -low.

Place the orange segm ents in a large bowl. Add the rom aine and onion. Add half of the dressing and toss to coat. Add m ore dressing if needed to coat the lettuce leaves. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the cheese evenly

longer. Transfer to a plate and keep warm .

In a sm all bowl, whisk together the egg

over the top. Sprinkle with the chives and

Add the vinegar and reserved orange juice

yolks. Whisk 1 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) of the

serve right away.

to the pan and cook until reduced by half,

warm m ilk m ixture into the yolks. Return to

1–2 m inutes. Add the orange slices and

the saucepan with the cream m ixture and

cook for 1 m inute. Rem ove from the heat

stir gently until thickened, 2–3 m inutes.

and stir in the butter. Return the scallops

Rem ove from the heat and stir in the orange

along with and any juices to the pan and

juice, 1 Tbsp of the butter, and the salt.

stir to coat w ith the sauce. Transfer to plates, top with the sauce and oranges, sprinkle with cilantro, and serve right away.

Divide the m ixture am ong 6 custard cups and let cool. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours or for up to overnight. Rem ove from the refrigerator 30 m inutes before serving. Before serving, cut away the skin and white

BLOOD ORANGES

BLOOD ORANGE MIMOSA

pith from the orange ( page 26 4) , then cut

Origina lly from Sicily, blo o d ora nge s ha ve

Squeeze the juice from 2–4 blood oranges.

crosswise into 6 slices. Heat the rem aining

a distinctive re d fle sh a nd juice a nd a fla vor

Measure 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 fl oz/ 1 2 5 m l) juice;

1 Tbsp of butter in a nonstick frying pan

re m inisce n t o f be rrie s. Va rie tie s include Moro,

reserve the rest for another use. In a sm all

over m edium heat. Add the rem aining

Ca ra Ca ra , a n d Sa n g uin e llo. As ve rsa tile

pitcher, com bine the orange juice, and 1 ⁄4 cup

1

a s the y a re dra m a tic, blo o d ora nge s ca n be

( 2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l) orange liqueur. Divide the

and cook, stirring, until the sugar begins to

e a te n ou t o f ha nd or u se d in sa la d s, sa uce s,

m ixture am ong 4 Cham pagne flutes. Top with

caram elize. Add the orange slices and cook,

de sse rts, a nd drinks.

Cham pagne or Prosecco and stir to com bine.

turning once, until caram elized, 2–3 m inutes.

Garnish each glass with a blood orange slice and serve right away. Makes 4 servings.

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 6 0 g) sugar and the cinnam on

Place an orange slice on top of each custard and serve right away.

PAN-SEARED SCALLOPS WITH SAUTÉED ORANGES

TOASTED POUND CAKE WITH SPICED CLEMENTINES

Tangerine, Fennel & Olive Salad

Tangerine Relish with Shallots & Mint

Toasted Pound Cake with Spiced Clementines

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

2 seedless tangerines, segm ented (page 264) w ith juice reserved

1

207 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp m inced shallot

4 allspice berries, lightly crushed

2 tsp chopped fresh m int

2 each cinnam on sticks and peppercorns, lightly crushed

2 fennel bulbs, fronds reserved

1 tsp balsam ic vinegar

1 star anise, lightly crushed

⁄2 cup ( ⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves

1 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

1 vanilla bean, split lengthw ise

1

2

1

⁄3 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) kalam ata olives,

pitted and halved In a sm all bow l, stir the olive oil into the of salt and pepper to m ake a dressing.

1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

6 clem entines 6 slices purchased pound cake, each about 1⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick 1

Cut the tangerine segm ents into 1 ⁄4 -inch

⁄4 cup ( 1⁄3 oz/ 10 g) fresh m int leaves,

cut into thin ribbons

( 6 -m m ) pieces and put in a bow l. Add the shallot, m int, vinegar, parsley, and 1 Tbsp

In a saucepan, com bine the sugar, allspice,

Using a sharp knife, shave the fennel bulb

of the reserved tangerine juice and stir to

cinnam on sticks, peppercorns, and star

into thin slices. Place in a bowl and drizzle

com bine. Stir in a pinch each of salt and

anise with 1 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) water.

with a spoonful of the dressing. Arrange on

pepper and the olive oil. Serve right away.

Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and

a platter. Toss the tangerine slices in som e of the dressing and arrange on top of the

Serve tangerine relish alongside seared duck breast halves or roast pork tenderloin.

add to the pan with the pod. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Rem ove from

fennel. Top with the parsley and olives, and

the heat and let steep for 30 m inutes.

drizzle with m ore dressing. Coarsely chop

Strain into a bowl, discarding the spices.

2 Tbsp of the fennel fronds and sprinkle

Cut away the skin and pith from the

over the top. Serve right away.

clem entines ( page 26 4) . Cut crossw ise into thin slices. Add to the syrup, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room tem perature before using. Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Place the cake slices on a baking sheet. Bake until lightly brow ned on both sides, 5 – 6 m inutes. Place the clem entines and syrup in a serving bowl and sprinkle with m int. Serve right away alongside the toasted pound cake slices.

SATSUMA MANDARINS

MANDARIN

Origina lly from Ja pa n, the Sa tsum a is a

In a saucepan over m edium heat, warm 1 cup

Cut crosswise into slices 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) thick.

swe e t, se e dle ss type o f m a nda rin ora nge

( 8 fl oz/ 250 m l) water and 1 cup ( 8 oz/ 250 g)

Place in a heatproof bowl, pour in the hot syrup,

tha t is distinguishable by its thin, loose, and

sugar, stirring often until the sugar dissolves and

and let stand at room tem perature for 1 hour.

le a the ry skin, which a llows it to be pe e le d

a thin syrup form s, 6 –7 m inutes. Add 1 Tbsp

Spoon the Satsum a slices and som e of the

ve ry e a sily. Se le ct Sa tsu m a s th a t a re

grated orange zest, reduce the heat to low,

syrup into bowls and add 8 dates, pitted and

sligh tly so ft, ye t he a vy for the ir size . Avoid

and sim m er, uncovered, to blend the flavors,

halved. Makes 4 servings.

fruits th a t a re o ve rly so ft o r a re sta rting

about 30 m inutes. Cut away the skin and pith

to show e ve n sm all spo ts o f brown. Use in

(page 264) from 6 Satsum a m andarins, rem oving

sa la d s, de sse rts, or sim ply e a t ou t o f ha nd.

as m uch of the white m em brane as possible.

DATE COMPOTE

t

M AN D ARIN S

reserved tangerine juice with a pinch each

Salt and freshly ground pepper

TAN GERIN ES

Salt and freshly ground pepper

CITRU S

4 seedless tangerines, segm ented (page 264) w ith juice reserved

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

BUYING GRAPEFRUITS Choose sm ooth-skinned grapefruits that are firm and heavy for their size. Avoid those that have bruises or soft spots. Sm all and shallow blem ishes do not generally indicate poor quality, nor does the color of the peel reveal the sweetness or ripeness of the fruit within. Store at room tem perature for 1 week or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Grape fruits The gra pe fruit first a ppe a re d in the eighte e nth ce ntury a s a hybrid o f the ora nge a nd the pom elo. Its na m e re fe rs to h ow the fruit g rows in la rge clu ste rs o n the tre e m uch like gra pe s on the vine. The la rge fruit ha s a we alth o f juice a nd a ta rt, re fre shing fla vor tha t va rie s by type. Som e ca n be quite swe e t, while o the rs ca rry ple a sa ntly bitte r unde rtone s. All gra pe fruit ha ve yellow pe els, a nd som e display va rying inte nsitie s o f pink or re d blush cove ring the fruit. Their pulp ra nge s in color from white to pale pink to ruby re d. Popula r va rie tie s include Ruby Re d, Rio Re d, Ruby Swe e t, a nd Orobla nco. Grown in wa rm clim a te s, gra pe fruit re a che s pe ak fla vor during the winter m onths. Ubiquitous on breakfa st table s, sim ply slice d in half or pre sse d into juice, gra pe fruit also a ppe a rs in sa vory dishe s such a s butte r sauce s for fish or re fre shing sala ds, e spe cially whe n paire d with butte ry a voca do or e a rthy spina ch.

WORKING WITH GRAPEFRUITS To halve grapefruits, cut them along their equators between the stem and blossom ends. For easier eating, use a paring knife to cut along each m em brane wall and just inside the white pith. To obtain whole segm ents free of peel and pith, see page 26 4.

Broiled Grapefruit with Brown Sugar

Grapefruit, Avocado & Crab Salad

Mint-Infused Grapefruit Sorbet

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

3 grapefruits

2 pink grapefruits, segm ented (page 264) and juice reserved

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) sugar

210 6 Tbsp (2 ⁄2 oz/ 75 g) light brow n sugar

GRAPEFRU ITS

CITRU S

1

2 tsp w hite w ine vinegar Preheat a broiler ( grill) . Line a baking sheet with alum inum foil. Halve the grapefruits crosswise. Arrange

⁄2 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh m int leaves

1 Tbsp m inced shallot

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) fresh grapefruit juice

1 Tbsp m inced fresh chives

Pinch of salt

Salt and freshly ground pepper In a saucepan, heat 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 50 0 m l)

the grapefruit halves, cut sides up, on the prepared sheet. Sprinkle each half evenly

1

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

water, the sugar, and half of the m int leaves

1 head butter (Boston) lettuce, leaves separated and torn into sm all pieces

over m edium -high heat, stirring until the Let cool com pletely. Strain the resulting

m elted and is bubbling, 2–3 m inutes.

2 firm but ripe avocados, cut into 1⁄2-inch (12-m m ) slices

Transfer to a platter and serve right away.

1

Any grapefruit variety can be used for this dish. If desired, use a serrated knife to separate the segm ents before broiling the fruit.

In a sm all bowl, whisk together 2 tsp of

according to the m anufacturer’s instructions.

the grapefruit juice with the vinegar, shallot,

About 10 m inutes before the sorbet is done,

chives, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

cut the rem aining m int into thin ribbons.

Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil until

Add to the ice cream m aker and finish

well com bined to m ake a vinaigrette.

freezing the sorbet.

In a bow l, toss the lettuce w ith 1 Tbsp of

For a firm er texture, pack into freezerproof containers and freeze until firm , about 3 hours.

with 1 Tbsp of the brow n sugar. Place under the broiler about 4 inches (10 cm ) from the heat source. Broil ( grill) until the sugar has

⁄2 lb (250 g) fresh lum p crabm eat

sugar is com pletely dissolved, 3 – 4 m inutes. sugar syrup into a bow l and discard the m int. Stir in the grapefruit juice and the salt. Transfer to an ice cream m aker and freeze

the vinaigrette. Divide the lettuce leaves am ong 6 salad plates. Gently toss the avocado slices in 1 Tbsp of the vinaigrette and place a few slices on each plate. Place the grapefruit slices, lettuce, avocado, and crabm eat on a platter or in a serving bowl. Drizzle som e of the vinaigrette over the top and toss until lightly coated. Season with salt and pepper, and serve right away.

POMELOS

POMELO, CILANTRO

An a n ce sto r o f th e g ra pe fruit, th e po m e lo

Separate 2 pom elos into segm ents (page 264).

is th o u gh t to h a ve o rig in a te d in Ma la ysia .

Place in a bowl, add 1 m inced red jalapeño

CASHEW SALAD

Ra n g in g in co lo r fro m ye llo w to ligh t pin k,

chile and 1 ⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro ( fresh

the y a re la rge r tha n a g ra pe fruit a nd ha ve

coriander) , and toss. In a sm all bowl, stir

a swe e t-ta rt fla vor. Availa ble prim a rily in the

together 1 Tbsp Asian fish sauce, 1 tsp light

win te r, cho o se pom e lo s tha t a re he a vy for

brown sugar, and the zest and juice of 1 lim e.

th e ir size , fre e o f ble m ish e s, a n d fra g ra n t.

Pour over the pom elo and toss gently. Stir

Use the m a s you would g ra pe fruits.

in 1 ⁄2 cup ( 2 oz/ 60 g) toasted and coarsely chopped cashews. Makes 6 servings.

GRAPEFRUIT, AVOCADO

CRAB SALAD

Melons CANTALOUPE

The te rm m e lon de scribe s a la rge round or ova l fruit with skin tha t ra nge s from thin to ve ry thick a nd e nclo se s juicy fle sh

HONEYDEW GALIA MELON

surrounding a ce n tra l core o f sm a ll se e d s. Be fore the y a re e ve n cu t in to, m ost m e lon s ha ve a n a lluring a rom a tha t hin ts o f the swe e t, sm o o th fle sh in side.

W ATERMELON The e a rlie st form s o f m e lon s, proba bly ga the re d from the wild, we re a ppre cia te d in a ncie n t Eg ypt. The fruits we re la te r g rown in the Middle Ea st be fore be ing e m bra ce d in Europe a nd the Am e rica s. Wa te rm e lon s, howe ve r, origina te d in Africa . The m a ny m e lon va rie tie s fa ll in to two g roups: m u skm e lon s a nd wa te rm e lon s. The form e r include s a wide a rray o f m e lon s, from the cantaloupe with its te xture d skin to the sm ooth-skinne d hone yde w, to re ce n t hybrid s such a s the Ga lia m e lon, which re sem ble s a cantaloupe but ha s a pale gre en fle sh. Wa term elons, which o ccupy a ca te gory o f the ir own, ca n be round s the size o f la rge hone yde ws or ova ls so la rge a nd we igh ty tha t the y n e e d to be h e fte d with bo th h a n d s. Th e ir se e d s m a y be sca tte re d throughou t the fle sh. Som e m e lon s a re ha rve ste d throughou t the ye a r, bu t m ost re a ch fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts during the sum m e r m on th s.

BUYING CANTALOUPE

HONEYDEW

Ripe cantaloupe and honeydew have a strong, sweet fragrance and give slightly when pressed at both ends. A fully ripe m elon m ay have tiny cracks at the stem end. Choose m elons that are heavy for their size and free of deep blem ishes, shriveled peel, or soft, m oldy areas. Store ripe m elons in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Cantaloupe Honeydew Both orange -fle she d cantaloupe and juicy, pale gre en honeydew m elons fall under the banner of m uskm elons, the large and fragrant fruit of trailing vine s na tive to Asia. De pe nding on the va rie ty, their pro te ctive rinds ra nge from creamy white to pale yellow, celadon to dark gre en, or a stripe d or spe ckle d com bina tion o f all the se hue s. The fle sh of m uskm elons can be ivory, yellow, orange, or gre en. Heritage varie tie s m uch sought for their intensely flowery fragrance and com ple x flavors include the pale, oval Crenshaw; the gre en-stripe d Charentais from France ; and the round, wrinkle d, bright yellow ca saba. Muskm elons are a t their peak from mid- to la te sum m er. They are popular in fruit salads, on antipa sti pla tters with prosciutto, puré e d to m ake drinks, or slice d into we dge s a s a re fre shing trea t during sum m er’s hotte st m onths.

WORKING WITH CANTALOUPE

HONEYDEW

Cut the m elons lengthwise or crosswise in half and scoop out the seeds with a large spoon. To keep the m elon m oist, peel and cut off slices only as they are needed. Melons taste sweeter if served at room tem perature or only slightly chilled. Rem ove them from the refrigerator about 30 m inutes before serving.

BUYING WATERMELON Look for a large, pale yellow patch on one side of the waterm elon, indicating that it was left on the vine to ripen. For the juiciest ones, knock on the m elon and listen for a deep resonance. A w hole waterm elon can be stored at room tem perature for up to 3 days. Once cut, store the fruit in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Watermelon Origina ting in Sou the rn Africa , wa te rm e lo n s a re the quinte sse ntial sum m e rtim e fruit. Their crisp, swe e t fle sh is love d for its re fre shing juicine ss. The m o st fa m ilia r va rie ty sports stripe s o f light a nd da rk gre e n on its rind a nd ha s bright re d fle sh within. Som e re tain their shiny bla ck se e d s, th ough se e dle ss va rie tie s ha ve be co m e m ore popula r. Ca pa ble o f e xce e ding 10 0 pounds, m ost wa te rm elons com e to m a rke t be twe e n 10 to 15 pounds. Ne w wa te rm elon va rie tie s ha ve be com e m ore widely a vaila ble. They m ay ha ve fle sh tha t ra nge s from yellow or ora nge to de e p pink. Som e a re oblong, while o the rs a re sm all a nd round like a ca ntaloupe. Wa te rm e lo n s a re a t the ir be st during the sum m e r. Cut into we dge s, they help de fine sum m e r picnics a nd ba rbe cue s. More form ally, wa te rm elons le nd the m selve s to sorbe ts, fruit sala ds, or a ppe tize rs whe n paire d with salty fe ta che e se or drizzle d with balsa m ic vine ga r.

WORKING WITH WATERMELON Using a large, sharp knife, carefully cut the waterm elon in half lengthw ise or crossw ise. Scrape out and discard the seeds. So-called seedless m elons m ay have sm all white seeds; though they are edible, m any cooks rem ove them before using in recipes. If serving only part of the m elon, seal its cut surfaces well with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Cantaloupe Cubes in Spiced Syrup

Grilled Salmon with Spicy Melon Salsa

Honeydew-Lime Ice Pops

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

216 1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

H O N EYD EW

M ELO N S

2 Tbsp grated fresh ginger

CAN TALO U PE



1 star anise 2 Tbsp fresh lem on juice 1 tsp grated lem on zest 1 cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and cubed

1

⁄2 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) each finely chopped

honeydew, cantaloupe, and w aterm elon 1 serrano chile, m inced 2 Tbsp coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)

water in a saucepan over m edium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the ginger, star anise, and lem on juice and zest and sim m er gently for 10 m inutes to m ake a syrup. Let cool and then strain.

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

1 lim e 1 honeydew m elon, peeled, seeded, and diced (about 4 cups/ 24 oz/ 750 g) Pinch of salt

1 Tbsp honey 2 tsp grated lim e zest 1 tsp fresh lim e juice, or m ore to taste

Heat the sugar and 1 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l)

1

Com bine 1 ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 12 5 m l) water and the sugar in a sm all saucepan. Using a vegetable peeler, rem ove 2 large strips of

Salt and freshly ground pepper

zest from the lim e and add to the saucepan.

4 salm on fillets, 6 oz (185 g) each, skin rem oved

Bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the sugar

1 Tbsp canola oil, plus extra for the grill

syrup cool and then strain.

has dissolved, 3 – 4 m inutes. Let the resulting

Puré e the sugar syrup, m elon, and the salt In a bow l, stir together the m elons, chile,

Spoon the cantaloupe into a bowl and drizzle

in a food processor until very sm ooth. If

cilantro, honey, lim e zest and juice, and

with the spiced syrup. Serve at once.

desired, pour the m ixture through a fine-m esh

a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.

strainer to rem ove any rem aining chunks of

Stir well and let stand at room tem perature

m elon. Taste and add lim e juice, if needed,

for 15 –30 m inutes. Taste and adjust the

to cut the sweetness.

seasonings with lim e juice, salt, or pepper. Pour the m ixture into eight 1 ⁄2 -cup (4 – fl oz/ Prepare a grill for direct-heat over m edium -

125 -m l) ice pop m olds, add sticks, and

high heat ( page 26 4) or use a stovetop

freeze until solid, 6 – 8 hours. ( The m ixture

grill pan. Sprinkle the salm on pieces all over

can also be poured into sm all paper cups

with salt and pepper, then drizzle with the

and frozen just until barely firm ; add the

canola oil. Lightly oil the grill rack and place

sticks and freeze until solid. Peel away

the fish on the grill. Cook until browned on

the cups and serve.)

one side, 3 – 4 m inutes. Turn and cook until brow ned on the other side and just opaque in the center, 3 – 4 m inutes m ore. Transfer the salm on to a serving platter and serve right away with the salsa.

GALIA MELON

FROZEN MELON MARGARITA

A type o f m u skm e lon, the Ga lia is a hybrid

Working in batches, purée 3 cups (15 oz/ 420 g)

de velope d in Isra el and now grown where

m elon cubes in a blender and transfer to a bowl.

o ther m e lon s thrive . With its ne tte d skin, it

Stir in 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g) sugar and the juice

re se m ble s a cantaloupe but is som e wha t larger,

of 2 lim es. For each of 3 batches, fill a blender

a n d th e fle sh, ra ther than orange, is yellowish

with 2 1 ⁄2 cups (20 0z/ 625 g) ice. Add 1 cup

gre e n and ve ry swe e t a nd juicy. The be st wa y

(8 fl oz/ 250 m l) of the m elon purée, 1 ⁄2 cup

to cho o se a Ga lia is by its a ro m a , d e te cte d

( 4 fl oz/ 125 m l) tequila, and 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 fl oz/

a t th e ste m e n d . Ga lia m e lo n s a re a va ila ble in

60 m l) triple sec. Purée until blended and pour

the sum m e r, u se a s you would a ca n ta loupe .

into salt-rim m ed glasses. Makes 8 servings.

HONEYDEW-LIME ICE POPS

WATERMELON, FETA

MINT SALAD

Watermelon, Feta & Mint Salad

Summer Watermelon Granita

Watermelon Wedges with Hot Pepper Salt

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

⁄4 cup ( ⁄4 oz/ 20 g) fresh m int leaves

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

2 tsp red pepper flakes

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) w hite grape juice

2 tsp grated lim e zest

219 3

3

1 serrano chile, seeded and chopped 2 Tbsp rice vinegar

3 Tbsp coarse salt

1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

To m ake the hot pepper salt, in a sm all bowl,

6 w aterm elon w edges

gently stir together the red pepper flakes,

3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Add the sugar and juice in a sm all

lim e zest, and salt. ( The salt can be stored

Salt and freshly ground pepper

saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring often,

for up to 5 days in an airtight container.)

1 sm all seedless w aterm elon, about 3 lb (1.5 kg), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) cubes

3 – 4 m inutes. Cook, stirring, until the sugar

6 oz (185 g) feta cheese, crum bled into 1⁄4 -inch (6-m m ) pieces

Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

has dissolved, 1–2 m inutes. Pour the resulting syrup into a heatproof bowl and let cool.

Process the waterm elon in a food processor until a thin, watery, and som ewhat grainy

Process 1 ⁄2 cup ( 1 ⁄2 oz/ 15 g) of the m int

purée form s, about 30 seconds.

leaves and the sugar in a food processor until well blended. Add the chile, vinegar,

In a bowl, stir together the sugar syrup,

and lim e juice and process again. With the

lem on juice, and waterm elon purée. Pour

m otor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Transfer

into a shallow 9 -by-13 -inch (2 3 -by-33 -cm )

the vinaigrette to a bowl and season with

baking pan. Cover with alum inum foil, then

a pinch each of salt and pepper.

place in the freezer. Freeze until a thin layer of ice form s on the surface and the edges

Place the waterm elon and cheese into

begin to harden about 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m )

individual bowls and drizzle the vinaigrette

in from the sides, about 1 hour.

on each. Garnish with the rem aining m int leaves and serve right away.

Rem ove the pan from the freezer and use a sturdy fork to break up the surface of the m ixture, breaking up any frozen areas into sm all shards. Cover the pan and freeze for 30 m inutes, then repeat the scraping and m ixing 3 or 4 tim es, for a total of about 2 1 ⁄2 hours freezing tim e. The m ixture w ill be icy and grainy. To serve, spoon into individual bowls and serve right away.

Sprinkle the hot pepper salt on the waterm elon wedges. Serve right away. Waterm elon wedges sprinkled with hot pepper salt are the perfect treat for a picnic or sum m er outing.

W ATERM ELO N

1 Tbsp fresh lim e juice

1 sm all seedless w aterm elon about 3 lb (1.5 kg), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) chunks

M ELO N S

1 Tbsp sugar

Stone Fruits APRICOTS

Stone fruits are so nam e d be cause they contain a pit, or stone, in the m iddle of the fle sh. Re gardle ss of size, stone fruits from

PLUOTS CHERRIES

the sm alle st cherrie s to the large st peache s grow on tre e s. When a t their peak, each m em ber of this group ha s its own swe e t flavor and juicy fle sh tha t se em s to m elt in the m outh.

SOUR CHERRIES Most stone fruits origina te d in Asia . Pe a che s, for e xa m ple,

NECTARINES

we re m e n tione d in a ncie n t Chine se lite ra ture. According to food historians, traders probably brought som e of the se fruits

PEACHES W HITE PEACHES

to Europe, and from there they were transporte d to the New World. In m odern tim e s, growers have de velope d num erous varie tie s of the se popular fruits, a s well a s hybrids such a s the

PLUMS APRIUMS

pluots and aprium s—both crosse s of plum s and apricots—tha t fill the m a rke t cra te s in the sum m e r. Do ze n s o f pe a ch a nd ne cta rine va rie tie s ha ve be e n cre a te d to bring ou t de sira ble colors, flavors, and other characteristics. De pe nding on the re gion, stone fruits a re first ha rve ste d in spring, be ginning with cherrie s. Plum s and the la st of the peache s can appear in m arke ts through Septem ber.

BUYING APRICOTS Look for fresh apricots w ith a deep golden color and sw eet fragrance. They should be soft enough to give slightly w hen gently pressed. Avoid any hard fruit, as it w ill never ripen fully on the counter. Lightly green-tinged fruit m ay becom e sweeter if enclosed in a paper bag at room tem perature for 1 or 2 days. Once ripe, apricots should be eaten as soon as possible.

Apricots Like its close cousin, the pe ach, the a prico t wa s first cultiva te d in China thousa nds o f ye a rs a go, whe re they still grow wild. Since the delica te fruit doe s no t tra vel we ll, the be st a prico ts a re found in m a rke ts whe re local growe rs ca n o ffe r longe r ripe ning on the tre e a nd e xtra ca re in ha ndling. Som e va rie tie s a re golde n, while o the rs display a so ft blush o f pink on the fruit’s skin. The Ble nheim va rie ty is le ge nda ry a m ong bake rs a nd ja m m ake rs for its honeysuckle a rom a a nd swe e t-ta rt fla vor. They have a short sea son peaking in early to midsum m er. Aprico ts ha ve sm all pits tha t a re e a sy to re m ove, a nd their delicate skins can be le ft on in m ost re cipe s. Apricots a re m uch love d for their bright color a nd delica te te xture a top ta rts, be twe e n ca ke la ye rs, or puré e d in to sa uce s. Ma de in to re lishe s, co m po te s or shim m e ring gla ze s, a prico ts m a ke e xce lle n t foils for poultry a nd ro a ste d m e a ts such a s pork a nd la m b.

WORKING WITH APRICOTS Apricots should be handled very gently, as they bruise easily. To peel the fruit: trim away the stem , cut a shallow X in the blossom end, and plunge the apricots into a large pot of boiling water until the skin peels away, 20 to 6 0 seconds, depending on ripeness. With a slotted spoon, transfer the fruit to ice water to cool. Drain and then peel with your fingers or a sm all paring knife.

BUYING CHERRIES Make sure that cherries are large, plum p, sm ooth, and still have stem s and leaves that are firm and green. Avoid any that are wet, sticky, bruised, excessively soft, or have shriveled stem s. Cherries should be used as soon as possible after purchasing. If needed, refrigerate them in a shallow container covered w ith a clean cloth or paper towels for up to 5 days.

Cherries Pe rfe ctly ripe che rrie s a re a n unriva le d tre a t. Two prim a ry type s e xist: swe e t che rrie s a nd sour che rrie s. Swe e t che rry va rie tie s, be st for e a ting fre sh, include the de e p re d, plum p Bing a nd the bright re d, la te -bloom ing Lam bert. The m ore delica tely flavore d Royal Ann, Rainier, a nd o the r golde n che rrie s m ay be only so ftly tinge d with pink or re d. Sour che rry va rie tie s, also known a s ta rt che rrie s, include the light re d Montm ore ncy a nd the de e ply re d Morello. They te nd to be sm alle r a nd so fte r a nd a re prize d for their fla vor a nd te xture whe n cooke d in pie s, ja m s, a nd de sse rt sauce s. Che rrie s ha ve a short se a son, la te spring to e a rly sum m e r de pe nding on the va rie ty. They a re pe rfe ct for sum m e r pie s, pa strie s, a nd ice cre a m . They also pair well in sa vory dishe s with poultry a nd m e a ts, e spe cially duck, phe a sa nt, pork, a nd ve nison.

WORKING WITH CHERRIES Try to keep the stem on the cherries until ready to use, since once they are rem oved, the fruit spoils quickly. To prevent them from m olding, wash cherries under cold running water just before using. To use cherries in recipes, pit the fruit w ith a cherry pitter or a sm all, sharp knife.

Sautéed Apricots with Mascarpone & Almonds

Crisp Apricot Turnovers

Chicken Thighs with Roasted Apricots

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

⁄4 lb (375 g) firm but ripe apricots, pitted and cut into slices 1⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick

8 bone-in chicken thighs

224

STO N E FRU ITS

1 vanilla bean, split lengthw ise

3

1 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) light brow n sugar

Pinch of salt 1

⁄4 tsp pure alm ond extract

12 firm but ripe apricots, pitted and cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) w edges

1 Tbsp cornstarch (cornflour) 1 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 tsp each fresh lem on juice and grated lem on zest

APRICO TS

1

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) m ascarpone cheese, at room tem perature 2 Tbsp confectioners’ (icing) sugar 1 Tbsp w hole m ilk 1

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) sliced (flaked)

alm onds, toasted

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) plus 2 tsp sugar

⁄4 tsp ground cinnam on

Pinch of salt Pastry Dough (page 263), chilled and rolled out until 1⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick 1 large egg beaten w ith 1 Tbsp w hole m ilk

Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tsp olive oil 1 sm all yellow onion, diced 1 tsp each m inced garlic and fresh ginger 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) fresh orange juice

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) dry verm outh 8 firm but ripe apricots, halved and pitted 2 Tbsp honey Preheat the oven to 4 0 0 °F (20 0 °C) . Season the chicken w ith salt and pepper. In an ovenproof sauté pan over m edium -high

Com bine the apricots, 1 ⁄4 cup sugar,

heat, brow n the chicken in the olive oil and

Heat a frying pan over m edium heat. Add

the cornstarch, butter, lem on juice and

the butter and cook until it m elts, foam s,

zest, cinnam on, and salt in a saucepan.

and turns a light, nutty brow n color. Scrape

Cook over m edium heat, stirring often,

the seeds from the vanilla bean into the

until the apricots break dow n slightly,

brow n butter. Add the brow n sugar and the

25 –30 m inutes. Let cool.

salt. Cook, stirring, until the brow n sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°F (19 0 °C) . Line a

bring to a boil, scraping up the brow n bits

is m elted, 1–2 m inutes. Stir in the alm ond

baking sheet with parchm ent ( baking) paper.

on the pan bottom . Cook until the liquid

extract and apricots, reduce the heat to

Cut the dough into eight 5 -inch (13 -cm )

is reduced by half, 4 – 5 m inutes. Return the

m edium -low, and cook, stirring, until the

rounds. Fill each round w ith a spoonful

chicken, skin side up, to the pan, cover, and

fruit is warm ed through, 1–2 m inutes.

of the apricot m ixture. Fold the dough and

cook in the oven until the chicken is tender,

Using an electric m ixer on low speed, beat

press the edges w ith a fork to seal. Brush

about 25 m inutes.

together the m ascarpone, confectioners’

w ith the egg-m ilk m ixture, sprinkle w ith the

sugar, and m ilk until sm ooth, 1–2 m inutes.

2 tsp sugar, and prick the tops w ith a fork. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake

Spoon the apricots into serving dishes. Top w ith the m ascarpone m ixture, sprinkle w ith

until lightly brow ned, 2 5 –3 0 m inutes. Let

set aside on a plate. Pour out all but 2 Tbsp fat from the pan. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the onions are translucent, 4 –5 m inutes. Add the orange juice and verm outh and

Meanw hile, place the halved apricots, cut side up, in a sm all baking dish. Drizzle the apricots w ith honey and sprinkle w ith a generous am ount of pepper.

cool and serve right away.

the alm onds, and serve right away.

When the chicken is tender, rem ove the cover and raise the oven tem perature to 45 0 °F (2 30 °C) . Place the dish of apricots in the oven and cook both for 10 m inutes

PLUOTS

PLUOT GALETTE

longer. The chicken should be nicely

A pluot (pronounced “plue-ott”) is a hybrid of

Roll Pastry Dough ( page 263) into a 15-inch

brow ned and the apricots should have

a plum a nd a n a pricot. Pluots ra nge in size

( 38 -cm ) round and put on a baking sheet. Cut

just a bit of color.

from sm a ll like a n a pricot to slightly la rge r like

11 ⁄2 lbs (750 g) pluots into thin slices and arrange

a plum. Their skin is m ore sim ilar to a plum but

on the dough, leaving a 2 inch ( 5 cm ) border.

can range from red to slightly orange to green.

Sprinkle with 2 Tbsp sugar. Fold the dough over

The y a re slightly fra gra nt, swe e t, a nd several

the fruit, leaving the center open and brush with

va rie tie s e xist. Am ong the m ost popula r a re

1 egg yolk whisked with 1 tsp water, sprinkle

Da pple Da ndy, Ca ndy Stripe , a nd Fla vor King.

with another 1 Tbsp sugar. Bake in a 425°F

Use pluots as you would apricots or plums.

( 220°C) oven for 50 m inutes. Makes 8 servings.

When the chicken is done, transfer it to a serving platter w ith the juices from the pan. Nestle the apricots around the chicken and serve right away.

CRISP APRICOT TURNOVERS

SWEET DARK CHERRY CLAFOUTI

Crostini with Smoked Duck & Cherry Relish

Fresh Ricotta & Cherry Parfaits

Sweet Dark Cherry Clafouti

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

1 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) pitted cherries

1 ⁄2 lb (750 g) cherries, pitted and halved

Unsalted butter for greasing

1 baguette, cut into slices ⁄4 inch (6 m m ) thick

1 Tbsp granulated sugar

1 lb (500 g) dark sw eet cherries, pitted

1 tsp kirsch

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) w hole m ilk

2 cups (16 oz/ 500 g) fresh w hole-m ilk ricotta cheese

1

227 1

1

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) thinly sliced green

(spring) onions, w hite and light green parts 1 Tbsp m inced shallot

2 Tbsp confectioners’ (icing) sugar

⁄2 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) sifted cake (soft-w heat) flour

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

4 large eggs, at room tem perature

1

⁄8 tsp pure alm ond extract

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) alm onds, toasted and coarsely chopped 1

2 cups (12 oz/ 390 g) shredded sm oked duck m eat

In a bowl, gently toss together the cherries,

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) granulated sugar

1

⁄8 tsp salt

1

⁄2 tsp pure alm ond extract

Confectioners’ (icing) sugar for dusting

granulated sugar, and kirsch. Let stand at Cut 1 ⁄2 cup ( 3 oz/ 9 0 g) of the cherries in

room tem perature for at least 10 m inutes

half and finely chop the rest. Preheat the

or up to 1 hour.

oven and preheat to 35 0 °F (18 0 °C) . Butter a shallow 11 ⁄2 -qt (1.5 -l) baking dish. Arrange

oven to 45 0 °F (2 30 °C) . In another bowl, stir together the ricotta, Brush the baguette slices w ith olive oil and

confectioners’ sugar, vanilla extract, and

place on a baking sheet. Toast until lightly

alm ond extract.

brow ned, 5 – 6 m inutes.

Position a rack in the upper third of the

the cherries in the prepared dish. In a saucepan over m edium -low heat, heat the m ilk and cream until sm all bubbles

Spoon 1 ⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 6 0 g) of the ricotta

In a bowl, com bine the halved and chopped

appear around the edges of the pan. Rem ove

m ixture into each of 4 serving glasses.

cherries, green onions, shallot, balsam ic

from the heat and vigorously w hisk in the

Top w ith 1 ⁄2 cup ( 3 oz/ 9 0 g) cherries.

vinegar, and the 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add a

flour, a little at a tim e, until no lum ps rem ain.

Repeat w ith another 1 ⁄4 cup of the ricotta

generous pinch each of salt and pepper.

m ixture and 1 ⁄2 cup of the cherries. Top

Top each toasted bread slice with a spoonful

each w ith the alm onds. Serve right away.

In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, granulated sugar, and salt until cream y. Whisk in the m ilk m ixture and the alm ond extract. Pour

of the shredded duck and then top w ith

over the cherries. Place the dish on a baking

a spoonful of the cherry m ixture. Place

sheet. Bake until brow ned, 45 – 55 m inutes.

on a serving platter and serve right away.

Transfer to a rack to cool. Dust w ith confectioners’ sugar and serve warm .

SOUR CHERRIES

SOUR CHERRY PIE

Sm aller than sweet cherries, dark crim son

Preheat the oven to 425°F ( 220°C) . Prepare and

edge under the bottom ; press to seal and crim p

colored sour cherries can be found in the

roll out Pie Dough ( page 263) . In a bowl, stir

decoratively. Cut slits in the top and place the

m arket only a few weeks of sum m er. They

together 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g) sugar and 1 ⁄4 cup

pie on a baking sheet. Bake for 1 5 m inutes.

a re usua lly too sour to e a t ra w but a re

( 1 1 ⁄2 oz/ 45 g) all-purpose (plain) flour. Add 1 lb

Reduce the tem perature to 350°F ( 180°C) and

excellent when baked in pies or turnovers.

(500 g) pitted sour cherries to the bowl and stir

continue to bake until the cherries are soft when

They are also excellent made into preserves

to coat. Transfer to the dough-lined pan and dot

pierced through one of the slits and a syrup

for a taste of sum m er in the other m onths

with 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into sm all pieces.

has form ed, 20 –25 m inutes. Rem ove from the

of the year. Two well-known varieties are

Carefully transfer the second dough round over

oven and let cool for at least 15 m inutes before

Morello and Montm orency.

the fruit. Trim the overhang, fold the top crust

serving. Makes 8 –10 servings.

CH ERRIES

2 tsp balsam ic vinegar Salt and freshly ground pepper

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) heavy (double) cream

1

STO N E FRU ITS

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing

1

BUYING NECTARINES

PEACHES

Choose fruits that give slightly to gentle pressure, em anate a flowery fragrance, and are free of bruises and blem ishes. Avoid nectarines and peaches w ith tinges of green, as they w ere picked too early and m ay never ripen properly. Arrange them stem end dow n and store at room tem perature. If they are soft, refrigerate them in a plastic bag for 4 to 5 days.

Nectarines Peaches Na tive to China, pe ache s a re now grown in te m pe ra te re gions o f Asia, the Unite d Sta te s a nd Europe. Ne cta rine s a re spe cial va rie ty bre d from a nd gra fte d onto pe ach tre e s. A downy, velve ty pe el distinguishe s pe ache s, while nectarines have a smooth skin that displays more red tones. The two fruits ca n be substitute d for e ach o the r in re cipe s. Pe ache s a nd ne cta rine s a re a t their be st from e a rly to m id-sum m e r. Bo th com e in fre e stone a nd clingstone va rie tie s, re fe rring to how loosely or tightly the fruit’s silke n fle sh holds to its la rge, wrinkle d pit. Fre e stone a re m uch e a sie r for cutting a nd cooking. Bo th m ay have either yellow or white fle sh. The white varie tie s a re o fte n m ore fra gra nt, swe e te r a nd juicie r. Pe ache s a nd ne cta rine s are enjoyed fresh; made into pies, jam s, and ice cream ; and appear in sauce s, gla ze s, and fillings for poultry and m eats.

WORKING WITH NECTARINES

PEACHES

Wash peaches and nectarines under cold running water just before using them . To halve, use a sm all, sharp knife to cut dow n to the pit follow ing the fruit’s crease, then grasp the fruit in both hands and rotate the halves in opposite directions to separate. Scoop out the pit w ith the tip of the knife or a spoon.

BUYING PLUMS Plum s should be sm ooth, heavy for their size, and give gently w hen pressed, particularly at the blossom end. The freshest plum s retain a w hite, powdery bloom on their peel. Avoid any that are w rinkled or overly soft. To soften hard plum s, place them in a paper bag for a few days at room tem perature. Store fully ripe plum s in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

Plum s Hundre ds o f va rie tie s o f plum s com e to m a rke t during the m id- to la te sum m e r m onths. Bo th their ta rt-ta sting pe els a nd their juicy, tra nsluce nt fle sh ca n ra nge in color from golde n yellow to bright gre e n to e ndle ss sha de s o f pink, purple a nd sca rle t. The be st one s to e a t fre sh a re la rge, re d-skinne d plum s with yellow fle sh, such a s the popula r Sa nta Rosa or the Burba nk, North Am e rica n plum s na m e d for the 19 th ce ntury horticulturalist who de ve lope d ove r 10 0 diffe re n t type s o f plum s fro m original Ja pa ne se tre e s. Yellow-skinne d, yellow-fle she d plum s such a s the Shiro a re e xce lle n t for ja m s a nd con se rve s. The de e ply purple , ova l Ita lia n plum , a lso known a s the prune plum , holds it sha pe a nd fla vor well during cooking a nd baking. Like wise, sm alle r plum s such a s the a ptly na m e d Gre e nga ge, the prize d Fre nch plum calle d Mira belle, a nd the pointe d, bright blue Da m son a re ide al for highlighting in de sse rts, infusing in lique urs, a nd boiling into ja m s a nd jellie s.

WORKING WITH PLUMS Plum skins are easy to peel if the fruits are fully ripe. If the plum s are still firm and their skin clings stubbornly, cut a shallow X in the blossom end and plunge the fruit into boiling water for 1 to 2 m inutes depending on the ripeness. Rinse in cold water to cool, and then carefully slip off their skins.

Nectarines with Arugula & Burrata Cheese

Grilled Peaches with Honey & Black Pepper

Nectarine & Peach Gratin

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

2 cups (2 oz/ 60 g) baby arugula (rocket) leaves

1

STO N E FRU ITS

230

3 nectarines, halved, pitted, and cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) slices 1

⁄2 lb (250 g) burrata cheese

PEACH ES N ECTARIN ES

Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 firm but ripe peaches, halved and pitted 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Unsalted butter for greasing 2 cups ( 3⁄4 lb/ 375 g) each peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced ripe peaches and nectarines, at room tem perature 11⁄2 tsp fresh lem on juice

⁄2 tsp pure alm ond extract

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking

1

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

over m edium -high heat ( page 26 4 or use

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) sour cream

Crusty bread for serving

n

⁄4 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) honey

a stovetop grill pan) . Oil the grill grate. In a sm all bowl, com bine the honey, a pinch

Arrange the arugula on a large serving

of salt, and 1 tsp pepper. Brush the peach

platter. Scatter the nectarine slices evenly

halves w ith olive oil and place on the grill

over the top.

rack, cut side dow n. Cover the grill and

Place the cheese on the platter. Drizzle w ith

cook until the peaches just begin to soften,

olive oil and sprinkle w ith salt and pepper.

3 – 4 m inutes. Turn the peaches and brush w ith the honey m ixture. Cook until tender

Serve right away w ith slices of crusty bread, letting diners layer the arugula, nectarines,

but not falling apart, 2–3 m inutes longer. Serve right away.

2 Tbsp w hole m ilk 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) granulated sugar

1

⁄2 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) light brow n sugar,

or as needed Preheat a broiler ( grill) . Butter an ovenproof 9 -inch (2 3 -cm ) square baking dish. Place the fruit on the bottom of the prepared dish. Sprinkle with the lem on juice and 1 ⁄4 tsp of the alm ond extract

and cheese on top of the slices. Serve these peaches alongside vanilla ice cream or Greek yogurt.

and toss gently. In a large bowl, w hisk together the sour cream , m ilk, the rem aining 1 ⁄4 tsp alm ond extract, and the granulated sugar. Spoon evenly over the fruit. Sprinkle evenly w ith the 1 ⁄2 cup brow n sugar, adding m ore if needed to cover. Place in the broiler 4 – 5 inches (10 –13 cm ) from the heat source and broil ( grill) until the brow n sugar m elts, 6 – 8 m inutes. Serve right away.

WHITE PEACHES

PEACH BELLINI

One of sum m er’s m ost savored delights is the

In a blender, purée 2 ripe white or yellow

white peach. Fragrant and floral, white fleshed

peaches, peeled, halved, and pitted, with

pe a che s ha ve be e n a round just a s long a s

1 Tbsp superfine ( caster) sugar until sm ooth.

ye llow pe a che s but lost popula rity a m ong

Fill each of 4 Cham pagne flutes evenly with

farm ers because their skin is m ore delicate and

the purée. Top each with chilled Cham pagne

their growing season is shorter. Now enjoying

or Prosecco, and stir gently to blend. Serve

a re surge nce a t fa rm e rs’ m a rke ts, the y ca n

right away garnished with thin slices of peach.

be used in m ost recipes that call for yellow

Makes 4 servings.

peaches. Use as you would yellow peaches.

NECTARINES WITH ARUGULA

BURRATA CHEESE

WARM PLUMS WITH HONEY

GREEK YOGURT

Warm Plums with Honey & Greek Yogurt

Stone Fruit Salad with Hazelnuts & Blue Cheese

Roasted Plums with Blue Cheese

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

233 2 Tbsp rice vinegar

4 plum s, halved and pitted

1 Tbsp light brow n sugar

1 tsp honey

2 tsp olive oil

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Salt and freshly ground pepper

6 firm but ripe plum s, halved, pitted, and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm ) w edges

1

3 oz (90 g) soft blue cheese, such as gorgonzola, at room tem perature

1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 cups (16 oz/ 500 g) plain Greek-style yogurt

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) pistachios,

toasted and coarsely chopped Preheat the oven to 425°F (2 20 °C) .

2 sm all firm but ripe plum s, halved, pitted, and cut into 1⁄4 -inch (6-m m ) slices 2 sm all firm but ripe apricots, halved, pitted, and cut into 1⁄4 -inch (6-m m ) slices

Preheat the oven to 45 0 °F (2 30 °C) . Brush the cut side of the plum s w ith olive oil and m ound 1 tsp of cheese into each cavity. Place the plum s, skin-side dow n,

1 firm but ripe peach, halved, pitted, and cut into 1⁄4 -inch (6-m m ) slices 1

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) hazelnuts (filberts),

In a baking dish, stir together the honey,

toasted, skinned, and coarsely chopped

sugar, and vanilla. Add the plum s and toss

1

well w ith the honey m ixture. Dot the plum s

4–8 thin slices w hole-grain bread

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) crum bled firm

blue cheese

evenly w ith the butter. Roast until just warm , 5 –7 m inutes.

In a sm all bowl, w hisk together the vinegar,

Spoon a sm all am ount of plum s and a

honey, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

spoonful of juices from the baking dish into

Whisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil,

each of 4 serving glasses, then add 1 ⁄2 cup

and continue to w hisk until well com bined

(4 oz/ 120 g) yogurt to each. Top w ith

to m ake a vinaigrette.

the rem aining plum s. Sprinkle w ith the

In a large bow l, gently toss together

pistachios and serve right away.

the arugula, plum s, apricots, peach, and

in a shallow baking dish just large enough to hold them and bake until the cheese has warm ed through, about 10 m inutes. Rem ove from the oven and let cool slightly. Arrange the warm plum s on a platter and serve w ith the bread slices.

hazelnuts. Add half of the vinaigrette and toss gently, adding m ore as needed to lightly coat the arugula. Sprinkle w ith the cheese and serve right away.

APRIUMS

APRIUM MUFFINS

A relatively new fruit at the market, apriums

Using a m ixer, beat 1 ⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) softened

speed and working in batches, add the dry

are a cross between an apricot and plum .

unsalted butter, 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 oz/ 60 g) plus 2 Tbsp

ingredients alternately with 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l)

The y diffe r from a pluot (pa ge 2 2 4 ) in

light brown sugar, and 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 oz/ 60 g) plus

butterm ilk, m ixing well after each addition. Fold

that they are 1 ⁄4 plum and 3 ⁄4 apricot, which

2 Tbsp sugar until light and fluffy. One at a tim e,

in 4 pitted and diced aprium s. Divide am ong

m akes them resem ble the apricot m ore,

beat in 2 large eggs. Mix in 1 tsp pure vanilla

twelve 1-cup ( 8 – fl oz/ 250-m l) m uffin cups lined

though but they taste like a com bination

extract. In a separate bowl, stir together 2 cups

with paper liners. Bake in a preheated 4 0 0 °F

of their parent fruits. Look for aprium s at

( 10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose ( plain) flour, 2 tsp

( 2 0 0 °C) oven until a toothpick inserted into

the m arket during warm sum m er m onths.

baking powder, 1 tsp baking soda ( bicarbonate

the center com es out clean, 25–28 m inutes.

of soda) , and 1 ⁄2 tsp salt. With the m ixer on low

Makes 12 servings.

PLU M S

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

6 cups ( 3⁄4 lb/ 375 g) baby arugula (rocket)

STO N E FRU ITS

2 Tbsp honey

Tree Fruits APPLES

Apple s, pears, and other so -calle d tre e fruits contain m ultiple se e ds, in contra st to a single stone or pit. The se e ds are typically

PEARS ASIAN PEARS

ine dible, with the e xception of juicy pom e grana te se e ds, the prize d part of the fruit. The fruits in this ca te gory have a broad range of flavors and te xture s. For e xam ple, apple s can be tart or

POMEGRANATES QUINCES

swe e t. Pe ars are swe e t a nd o fte n ve ry juicy. De pe nding on the varie ty, persim m ons can be a stringent or m ild and puddinglike in te xture. Quince s are so tart tha t they are always cooke d

FIGS PERSIMMONS

ra ther than ea ten raw. Figs m ay be the swe e te st of all tre e fruits. Bo ta nica lly re la te d to rose s, a pple s, pe a rs, a nd quince s de scende d from wild varie tie s first ga there d in Central Asia

HACHIYA PERSIMMONS

hundre ds, e ven thousands, of years ago. Figs and pom e grana te s, m em bers of separa te fam ilie s, can be trace d to ancient Middle Ea stern civiliza tions. North Am erica ha s a na tive persim m on, bu t it wa s long a go surpa sse d in popula rity by va rie tie s im porte d from China and Japan. The appearance of tre e fruits in the m arke t is generally the harbinger of the cool wea ther of fall and winter. Be cause figs ne e d full days of sun to ripen properly, they are harve ste d in both la te sum m er and early autum n.

BUYING APPLES Look for firm fruit w ith sm ooth skin free of bruises and blem ishes. For the best flavor and texture, look for new ly harvested, locally grow n apples rather than fruit sold from cold storage. Apples continue to ripen at room tem perature. Store them in a heavy paper bag away from onions and potatoes in the refrigerator for 1 week or up to 2 m onths.

Apples Crisp, round a pple s a re pe rha ps the m ost com m on tre e fruit in the world. The re a re som e 7,0 0 0 known va rie tie s, a lthough fa r fe we r a re wide ly a va ila ble . Swe e t, thin skinne d a pple s a re be st for e a ting ra w, a s a sna ck ou t o f ha nd or paire d with a ge d che e se, while ta rt a pple s a re ide al for m aking pie s, cake s, pa strie s, or a pple sauce. Most a pple s a re ha rve ste d from autum n to e a rly winte r. The m ost re cogniza ble va rie tie s for e a ting fre sh include Re d Delicious, swe e t Golde n Delicious, ta rt a nd gre e n Gra nny Sm ith, re d- a nd yellow-stre ake d Gala, a nd the re d-m a rble d McIntosh. Bake rs se e k out va rie tie s such a s Jona tha n, Cortla nd, Pippin, Wine sa p, Gra ve nstein a nd Bra e burn for their sturdy te xture tha t bala nce swe e tne ss with pronounce d tartne ss and hints of spicine ss. Spe cialty a pple s a re highly re gional, e spe cially he rita ge va rie tie s, so it pays to a sk fa rm e rs a bout the be st one s local to your a re a for e a ting a nd cooking.

WORKING WITH APPLES Peeling apples is optional, depending on preference or the recipe. Use a vegetable peeler or sm all, thin-bladed knife to rem ove the skin, if desired. Use a sharp chef’s knife to cut the flesh into the desired shapes. The flesh of cut apples brow ns quickly w hen exposed to air. To prevent this darkening, coat pieces evenly w ith a sm all am ount of citrus juice.

BUYING PEARS Look for sm ooth, unblem ished fruits w ith their stem s still attached. They should be fragrant and just beginning to soften near the stem . Pears m ust be left at room tem perature to soften and sw eeten and are ready to eat w hen they w rinkle a little at the stem end and are slightly soft at the blossom end. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

Pears A perfe ctly ripe pear ha s soft, juicy fle sh with a delicately floral fla vor. First cultiva te d in Asia ove r 4 ,0 0 0 ye a rs a go, today’s thousa nds o f va rie tie s va ry in size, color, contour, te xture, and flavor. Among the most familiar are the Anjou, a gre en, alm ost egg-shape d pear tinge d with yellow; the Ba rtle tt (also known a s the Willia m s pe a r) with thin, light gre e n skin; the firm , long-ne cke d Bosc with distinctive brown russe ting; the gre e n-yellow, m eltingly te nde rfle she d Com ice ; a nd the tiny, re d-blushe d Se ckel. Swe e t, fragrant pears are at their peak sea son during autum n and winter, a tim e when their fre shne ss is e spe cially welcom e. Excellent for eating out of hand, pears also add elegance to tarts, pa strie s, and other winter de sserts. Poache d whole in wine or transform e d into com pote, the flavor of pears blends well with ginger, vanilla, orange pe el, raisins, and warm spice s such a s clove, cinnam on, and ginger.

WORKING WITH PEARS Pears can be left unpeeled for eating fresh, but be sure to peel them before cooking, as their tough skins have a slightly bitter flavor that is accentuated w hen cooked. When cutting pears, halve them lengthw ise, then scoop out the core w ith a sm all spoon. To core w hole fruit, use a spoon or m elon baller to scoop out the seeds from the pear’s blossom end.

Apple & Artisan Cheddar Panini

Sautéed Apples with Pork Chops

Rustic Apple Crostata

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

8 slices sourdough bread, each about 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick

4 boneless pork loin chops, about 11⁄2 inches (4 cm) thick

3 sweet apples, such as Fuji, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

2 Tbsp olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

6 oz (180 g) artisan Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced

1

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1 tsp cornstarch (cornflour)

1 red apple, cored, and cut into slices about 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thick

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

P rehe at a sandwich grill or a grill pan. P lace 4 read b slices on a work surface and brush 1 side of each slice with the olive oil. L aye r the cheese and apple slices evenly on the unoiled side of the bread slices. P lace the remaining 4 bread slices on top and brush the tops with oil. G entlyress p the sandwiches to compress them.

1 small yellow onion, diced

appl es

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Place 1 sandwich in the grill or on the grill pan ( if using a grill pan, set a heavy obj ect such as a filled tea kettle on top of the sandwich) . C ook until theread b is golden and toasted, the cheese is melted, and the apple is warmed through, 3–5 minutes. R epeat with theremaining sandwich. S rve e right away.

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-mm) wedges 1 tsp minced fresh rosemary 1 tsp honey

1

⁄3 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) light brown sugar ⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon

Pinch of ground nutmeg Pinch of salt Pastry Dough (page 263), chilled and rolled into a 16-inch (40-cm) round 1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 Tbsp heavy (double) cream 1 tsp granulated sugar mixed with ⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon

1

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) chicken broth 2 Tbsp heavy (double) cream

1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces

S eason the po rk chops with salt and pepper. M ix the lour f with a pinch of each salt and pepper. D re dge the pork chops in the flour, shaking off the ex cess. M elt the butte r with the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the chops and cook until browned, 2–3 minutes per side. Set aside.

In a large bowl, toss together the apples, brown sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.

Add the onion to the pan with a pinch each of salt and pepper and sauté until soft and translucent, 4–5 minutes. Add the apples, rosemary, honey, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Sauté until the apples are just golden in spots, 1–2 minutes. Add the broth and, using a wooden spatula, scrape up any browned bits in the pan bottom. Return the chops to the pan and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook, turning the chops once, until they are tender and register 145°F (63°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 7–10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and tent with aluminum foil. Add the cream to the pan, raise the heat to high, and cook until the sauce is slightly thickened, 1–2 minutes. Pour the sauce over the chops and serve right away.

Place the dough round on a baking sheet lined with parchment ( baking) paper. Mound the apple mixture in the center of the round, leaving a border of about 3 inches (7.5 cm). Fold the dough border over onto the apples, leaving a circle of apples exposed in the center. Brush the dough with the egg mixture and then sprinkle with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Dot the exposed fruit with the butter. Refrigerate until the dough is firm, 20–30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Bake the crostata until the crust is golden brown and the apples are tender and bubbling, 45–50 minutes. Slide the parchment and crostata onto a rack and let cool at least 20 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

APPLE

ARTISAN CHEDDAR PANINI

PEAR TARTE TATIN WITH WINTER SPICES

Pear Tarte Tatin with Winter Spices

Poached Pears in Riesling with Sweet Cream

Smoked Chicken, Grilled Pear & Fontina Sandwich

M AKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

M AKES 4 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

8-by-10-inch (20-by-25-cm ) rectangle of frozen puff pastry, thaw ed in the refrigerator

4 firm pears such as Bosc or Anjou, peeled, halved, and cored

1

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 1⁄2 cups (20 fl oz/ 625 m l) Riesling

241

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) granulated sugar

4 firm , ripe pears, peeled, halved, and cored 1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 120 g) light brow n sugar

2 Tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger

1

⁄4 tsp each ground nutm eg and cloves

1

⁄2 tsp ground cinnam on

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) granulated sugar

⁄4 –1 lb (375–500 g) fontina cheese, sliced

6 slices sm oked chicken

1 lem on zest strip, 2 inches (5 cm ) long and 3⁄4 inch (2 cm ) w ide

2 ripe pears, thinly sliced

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 m l) heavy (double) cream

In a sm all, heavy saucepan m elt the butter

1

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) confectioners’

(icing) sugar

over low heat. Rem ove from the heat and let stand briefly. Using a spoon, skim off the foam from the surface. Pour off the clear yellow liquid into a bowl. Discard the m ilky

Place the pears in a nonreactive saucepan Refrigerate the pastry dough for 15 m inutes.

large enough to hold them in a single layer

Preheat the oven to 375°F (19 0 °C) . Using

lying dow n. Add the w ine, sugar, lem on 1

solids left behind in the pan. Lay 6 slices of the bread on a work surface and top w ith the cheese, chicken, and pear

1 Tbsp of the butter, grease a 12-inch

zest, and 1 ⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) water.

( 3 0 -cm ) round baking dish w ith 2-inch

Bring to a boil over m edium -high heat.

(5 -cm ) sides. Sprinkle the granulated sugar

Reduce the heat to m edium -low, set a

Brush a w ide frying pan or stove-top grill

evenly over the bottom .

heatproof plate on top of the pears to keep

pan w ith the m elted butter and warm over

them subm erged, and sim m er until a knife

m edium heat. Working in batches, add the

can be inserted easily into the center of

sandw iches and weight w ith a pan lid. Cook

a pear, 35 – 4 0 m inutes. Rem ove the plate.

until the bottom s are golden brow n, about

Let the pears cool to room tem perature

4 m inutes. Adding m ore butter as needed,

in the liquid. Using a slotted spoon, transfer

turn the sandw iches, replace the lid, and

the pears to shallow bowls.

cook on the second sides until golden

Place the pears, cut side up, in a tight layer in the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle w ith 1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 6 0 g) of the brow n sugar. Top

w ith the crystallized ginger and lem on juice. Cut the rem aining 2 Tbsp butter into bits and dot the tops of the pears. In a sm all bowl, stir together the rem aining 1 ⁄4 cup

In a large bowl, w hip the cream until soft

(2 oz/ 6 0 g) brow n sugar and the nutm eg,

peaks form , about 5 m inutes. Add the

cloves, and cinnam on. Sprinkle over the pears.

confectioners’ sugar and beat until stiff peaks

On a floured work surface, roll out the pastry a little larger than the diam eter of

form , 2–3 m inutes m ore. Top the pears w ith the w hipped cream and serve right away.

slices. Top w ith the rem aining bread slices.

brow n and the cheese has m elted, about 4 m inutes m ore. Rem ove from the pan and keep warm w hile you cook the rem aining sandw iches. Cut the sandw iches in half and serve right away.

the baking dish and 1 ⁄4 inch ( 6 m m ) thick. Transfer to the dish. Tuck the edges of the pastry into the bottom of the dish to form a rim that encircles the pears. Prick the top all over w ith a fork.

ASIAN PEARS

PEAR, HAZELNUT

pears are tender, and a thickened, golden

Available from sum m er through fall, the Asian

Whisk together 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar, 1 tsp

syrup has form ed in the dish, about 1 hour.

pear belongs to a species com pletely different

grainy m ustard, 1 tsp honey, and a pinch each of

Let stand for 5 m inutes.

from regular pears. They resem ble large, pale

salt and pepper. Whisk in 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 fl oz/ 125 m l)

yellow green apples. The pears have a flowery

extra-virgin olive oil to m ake a vinaigrette. Core

Run a knife around the inside edge of the

fragrance, a m ildly sweet flavor, and a slightly

and dice 1 Asian pear and place in a bowl. Add

dish to loosen the sides. Invert the tart onto

granular texture that bursts with juice from the

6 cups ( 3⁄4 oz/ 375 g) salad greens, 1 ⁄4 cup ( 1 ⁄3 oz/

a plate, dislodging and replacing any pears

first bite. Asian pears are best served raw. Eat

10 g) m inced fresh dill, and 1 ⁄4 cup ( 2 oz/ 60 g)

that m ay have stuck to the dish. Cut into

them on their own or in salads.

chopped hazelnuts ( filberts) . Toss with vinaigrette

Bake until the crust is golden brow n, the

wedges and serve warm .

DILL SALAD

to lightly coat the greens. Makes 6 servings.

PEARS

1 Tbsp fresh lem on juice

1

12 slices firm white bread, brioche, or challah 3

TREE FRU ITS

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) unsalted butter

BUYING POMEGRANATES Look for large, firm , deeply red fruits that boast a plum p shape and sm ooth peel. Avoid pom egranates w ith dried, shrunken, brow ned skin. Fruits that feel heavy for their size w ill have the m ost juice in the seeds. Store pom egranates at room tem perature for 1 to 2 days, or refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 weeks.

Pomegranates Since a ncie nt tim e s, the pom e gra na te ha s be e n a n im porta nt food throughout the Middle Ea st. The tre e s prolife ra te in Me dite rra ne a n clim a te s, including Europe a nd California, a nd the se e ds a nd juice a re popula r a ddition to the re spe ctive cuisine s. Sym bolic o f fe rtility in m a ny culture s, pom e gra na te s de rive their na m e from the La tin for “se e de d a pple.” Once split ope n, the thick, le a the ry, de e p re d skin o f this le ge nda ry fruit re ve als hundre ds o f ge m -like se e ds, e ach surrounde d by juicy, spa rkling, ruby-re d pulp. Pom e gra na te s a rrive in m a rke ts during the autum n a nd winte r m onths. Their se e ds a dd spa rkle a nd crunch whe n sprinkle d a s ga rnish ove r fruit, sala ds, ice cre a m or pa strie s. Its bright, fruity, swe e t-sour juice a ppe a rs in m a rina de s, vinaigre tte s, sauce s, gla ze s, a nd drinks.

WORKING WITH POMEGRANATES To seed a pom egranate, cut off the peel near the blossom end and rem ove it along w ith the bitter w hite pith. Lightly score the rem aining peel into quarters from end to end. Working over a bowl, carefully break the fruit apart w ith your hands. Bend the peel inside out, and use your fingertips to lightly brush the seeds from the w hite, sectional m em branes.

BUYING QUINCES Select large, sm ooth-skinned fruits that retain their pale, fuzzy coating, and em anate a flowery fragrance. Avoid any w ith bruises or soft spots. Buy quinces before they ripen fully, w hile they are still quite firm and their skin is just beginning to turn from green to gold. Store at room tem perature, then refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.

Quinces A rela tive o f the rose, quince s pre da te their close cousins a pple s a nd pe a rs by m a ny ce n turie s. The fruit, a lso known a s golde n a pple, is fa m e d for a he a dy pe rfum e tha t ca n fill a n e ntire room . Whe n raw, the fruit’s ha rd, dry, cre a m -colore d fle sh ha s a powe rfully a stringe nt fla vor so its no t e a te n ra w. Once co oke d, the quince so fte n s, turn s a de e p ro se -pink color a nd be co m e s e ve n m ore flowe ry in fra gra nce. Like o the r tre e fruits, quince s com e to m a rke t during the autum n a nd winte r. Supporte d by swe e t ingre die nts to te m pe r its a stringe ncy, the fruit m a rrie s well with la m b, pork, poultry, a nd ga m e in slow-cooke d ste ws a nd roa sts. Quince sta rs in ja m s a nd jellie s a nd also o fte n contribute s its high-pe ctin se tting powe r to o the r, so fte r fruits. Cooke d down to a conce ntra te d fruit pa ste, it be com e s m e m brillo, a cla ssic Spa nish accom pa nim e nt to a ge d che e se.

WORKING WITH QUINCES Do not wash off the fuzz coating on the surface of the quinces until just before using. The hard flesh of the quince w ill resist sm aller knives. You m ay need to use a hefty cleaver along w ith extra effort and care to cut the fruit. Rem ove the core and seeds unless you’re planning to strain the fruit.

Watercress Salad with Pomegranate & Citrus

Pomegranate-Glazed Lamb Chops

Frozen Pomegranate Semifreddo

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp sherry vinegar

8 lamb rib chops, frenched

11⁄4 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) sugar

2 tsp minced shallot

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tsp minced rosemary

2 large egg yolks

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) fresh orange juice

Pinch of salt

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1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 blood orange, segmented (page 264) with juice reserved 1 navel orange, segmented (page 264) with juice reserved Seeds from 1 pomegranate 6 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) watercress leaves

1

Add 1 Tbsp each of the juices to the vinaigrette, whisking to combine, and reserve the rest for another use. Remove the orange segments from the juice and place in a large bowl. Add the pomegranate seeds and watercress along with half of the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Add more vinaigrette if needed to lightly coat the watercress leaves. Serve right away.

2 Tbsp pomegranate molasses ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) pomegranate juice

1

Seeds from 1 pomegranate

Seeds from 1 pomegranate

1 Tbsp honey

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) heavy (double) cream

1

I na bowl, stir together the vinegar, shallot, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. W hisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil until well combined to make a vinaigrette.

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) pomegranate juice

1 Tbsp pomegranate molasses

⁄2 tsp red pepper flakes

Sprinkle the lamb chops with salt, pepper, and rosemary. Drizzle with olive oil and let stand at room temperature for 30–60 minutes or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours (remove the chops 30–60 minutes before grilling). In a saucepan over high heat, bring the orange juice, pomegranate juice, molasses, pomegranate seeds, honey, and red pepper flakes to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until thickened to a syrupy consistency, 20–25 minutes to make a glaze. Divide the glaze between 2 bowls. Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over high heat. Grill the lamb chops until well browned, 3–4 minutes. Turn and brush with the pomegranate glaze from one of the bowls. Continue cooking until the chops are tender and register 125°F (52°C) on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare, or until cooked to your liking. Transfer to a platter, drizzle with the glaze from the second bowl, and season with pepper. Serve right away.

In a heatproof bowl, combine the sugar, eggs, and egg yolks. Set the bowl over a saucepan of (but not touching) simmering water. Whisk constantly until the mixture is light and fluffy and registers 140°F (60°C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. Remove the bowl from over the saucepan, stir in the vanilla, salt, pomegranate molasses, pomegranate juice, and one-fourth of the pomegranate seeds. Let cool. In a bowl, beat the cream until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the cream into the cooled egg mixture. Line a 9-by-5-by-3-inch (23-by-13-by-7.5-cm) loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wrap hanging over each side. Transfer half of the mixture to the prepared pan, sprinkle one-third of the remaining pomegranate seeds over the top, and then transfer the rest of the egg mixture to the pan. Sprinkle with half of the remaining seeds and cover the pan with the overhanging plastic wrap. Freeze the semifreddo overnight until firm. Remove the semifreddo from the pan, peel off the plastic, and cut into slices. Arrange on serving plates, sprinkle with the remaining pomegranate seeds, and serve right away.

POMEGRANATE-GLAZED LAMB CHOPS

HOMEMADE QUINCE PASTE WITH MANCHEGO CHEESE

Homemade Quince Paste with Manchego Cheese

Quince Teacake with Sweet Syrup

Quince Poached in Vanilla Syrup

MAKES 10 –12 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 – 8 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 lb (1 kg) quinces

3

3 ⁄2 –4 cups (1 ⁄4 –2 lb/ 875 g–1 kg) sugar

1 cinnamon stick, lightly crushed

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 tsp ground cinnamon

Zest of 1 orange

2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

Block of Manchego cheese, shaved

1 Tbsp fresh orange juice

Crackers for serving

2 quinces each peeled, cored, and cut into 8 wedges

3 quinces, peeled, halved, cored, and cut into slices 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick

247 1

3

Remove the cheesecloth pouch and discard. Mash the quinces with a potato masher or purée in a food processor. In a clean saucepan, combine the mashed quinces, the cooking liquid, 31⁄2 cups (13⁄4 lb/ 875 g) of the sugar, and the cinnamon. Cook over low heat, stirring often, until thick, about 20 minutes. Taste and add more sugar if the paste seems too tart. Ladle into hot, sterilized canning jars to within 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) of the rims. Wipe the rims clean, cover with sterilized canning lids, and seal tightly. Process the jars in a hot-water bath for 10 minutes. Check the seals, label the jars, and store in a cool pantry for up to 1 year. (Jars that do not form a good seal should be refrigerated and used within 1 month.) To serve, spread quince paste on top of each cheese slice or cracker. Serve right away.

11⁄2 cups (7 1⁄2 oz/ 235 g) all-purpose (plain) flour, plus extra for flouring 3

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) granulated sugar

1 tsp pure vanilla extract 3 large eggs 11⁄2 tsp baking powder Pinch of salt Confectioners’ (icing) sugar for dusting In a nonreactive saucepan over mediumhigh heat, cook the brown sugar, cinnamon stick, orange zest and juice, and 21⁄2 cups (20 fl oz/ 625 ml) water until the sugar has dissolved. Add the quince wedges and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to mediumlow and simmer until tender, 45–60 minutes. Let the quince cool in the syrup then cut into 1⁄2 -inch (12-mm) dice. Strain the syrup and set aside. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy, 3–4 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. In a another bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and a salt. Fold the flour mixture and diced quince into the butter mixture. Transfer to the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 35–40 minutes. Let cool on a rack for 10 minutes; unmold onto the rack and let cool. Cut the cake into slices, drizzle each slice with the reserved syrup, and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

11⁄2 tsp grated lemon zest, plus strips for garnish I na nonreactive saucepan large enough to hold the q uinces, rbing the sugar, vanilla bean halves, lemon j uice, and 2 cups ( 16 fl oz / 5 00 ml) r wate to a boil over medium- high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. C ook, stirring often,until a light to medium- thick syrup forms, about 10 minutes. R educe the heat to low, add the q uinces and the lemon z est, and poach the ruit, f uncovered, until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. R emoverom f the heat and let stand until nearly at room temperature, about 15 minutes. L adle the q uinces into bowlsr o glasses with some of the syrup. G rnish a with lemon z est strips and serve right away.

quinces

Slice the q uinces and place in a heavy nonreactive pot. Add water to cover and the cheesecloth pouch. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and cook slowly, uncovered, until the fruit is tender, 20–40 minutes. You may want to stop the cooking a few times, for 1–2 hours, to let the quinces rest and deepen their color. Add more water if the mixture begins to dry out.

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing

3

2 ⁄2 cups (1 ⁄4 lb/ 625 g) sugar 1

t r ee f r uit s

P eel each q uince, cut in half, and remove the core and seeds. P lace the peels, co res, and seeds in a sq ua re of cheesecloth ( muslin) , ring b the corners together, and tie securely with kitchen string.

⁄4 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) light brown sugar

1

BUYING FIGS Choose plum p figs that are dry and soft to the touch but not w rinkled, bruised, or discolored. Fruits w ith a web of delicate fissures are highly prized. Extrem ely fragile and perishable, figs are best eaten as soon as possible after purchase. If needed, store them in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days, arranged in a single layer on a tray lined w ith paper towels.

Figs Am ong the world’s olde st known foods, figs we re use d to swe e te n dishe s long be fore suga rca ne wa s widely cultiva te d. Na tive to We ste rn Asia, the sm all tre e s now flourish in the wa rm , dry clim a te s o f the Middle Ea st, Me dite rra ne a n, a nd California . The so ft, pe a r-sha pe d fig is, in fa ct, a swolle n flowe r tha t ca rrie s within it m a ny tiny se e ds tha t a re the true fruit o f the tre e. Figs ripen during mid- to late sum m er, with som e varie tie s linge ring for a se cond ha rve st in e a rly fa ll. The ir skin ca n be purple, gre e n, yellow, brown, or white, a nd their fle sh ra nge s from pale gold to de e p, rich re d. Am ong the be st-known va rie tie s a re the Adria tic, Mission (also known a s Black Mission a nd California Black), Calim yrna, Ka do ta, a nd Sm yrna . Fre sh, ripe figs a re be st e a te n out o f ha nd but a re also e xcelle nt se rve d with che e se, grille d to accom pa ny cure d m e a ts or sa vory sala ds, a nd paire d with cre a m y de sse rts.

WORKING WITH FIGS Rinse fresh figs under cold running water and gently pat dry just before serving. Over-handling w ill bruise the delicate fruit. The peel is edible and, unless specified in a recipe, can be left on the fruit. Use a sharp paring knife to cut figs in half lengthw ise.

BUYING PERSIMMONS Choose plum p fruits that are heavy for their size and free of blem ishes. Their skin should be sm ooth and shiny, w ith no hint of yellow. Look for intact stem caps that are firm and green, not gray or brittle. Once ripe, persim m ons should be eaten right away or refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 2 days.

Persimmons Pe rsim m on tre e s display their fruit on ba re bra nche s like sm a ll a nd brigh t la n te rn s. Pe rsim m on s we re origina lly cultiva te d in China a nd la te r ca rrie d to the We st from Ja pa n in the la te 19 th ce ntury. Those m ost fa m ilia r to us to da y be long to the ka ki spe cie s—a word still u se d for the fruit in m a ny countrie s. Pe rsim m ons a re in pe ak se a son from la te Octobe r to la te Fe brua ry. Two ba sic va rie tie s com e to m a rke ts: the heart-shape d Hachiya that must soften com ple tely be fore losing its a stringe ncy a nd the sm alle r, rounde r Fu yu tha t ca n be e njoye d while still firm . Crisp a nd swe e t, Fu yu pe rsim m ons pair well with da rke r sala d gre e ns such a s spina ch, frise e , a nd e ndive . Though the y re quire long ripe ning a t room te m pe ra ture, Hachiya pe rsim m ons re wa rd the pa tie n t co ok with a rich, swe e t fla vor tha t e pitom ize s the ha rve st se a son. They a re delicious in cake s, puddings, quick bre a ds, a nd ice cre a m s.

WORKING WITH PERSIMMONS Ripen Hachiya persim m ons inverted on their caps until extrem ely soft. Unless using a food m ill, Hachiyas m ust be peeled before cooking or puréeing. The Fuyu variety m ay be served w ith its skin on or peeled for a m ore delicate texture. If the persim m ons are too hard to use, speed up the ripening by placing them inside a paper bag w ith a banana or apple.

Fig & Fromage Blanc Crostini

Figs Simmered in Red Wine

Pork Medallions with Roasted Figs

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

8 figs, halved lengthwise

2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) dry red wine

1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1

1 pork tenderloin, about 11⁄2 lb (750 g), cut crosswise into 4 medallions

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 peppercorns

8 slices ciabatta bread, each 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick

2 whole cloves

f igs

t r ee f r uit s

250

1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) fromage blanc

1 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) arugula (rocket) leaves 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil P rehe at the oven to 400°F ( 200°C ) . L ine a baking sheet with parchment ( baking) pape r. Place the figs, cut side up, on the prepared sheet. Driz lze with the vinegar, then season with salt and pepper. R ast o the figs until very tender, 1 0–1 5 utes. min S et aside. L eave the oven on. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and toast until lightly brown and crisp, 4–5 minutes. Spread about 1 Tbsp of the fromage blanc on each slice of toasted bread. Top with 2 fig halves and use a fork to mash them gently. Cut each crostini in half. Top with a few arugula leaves and drizzle with olive oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper and serve right away.

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) sugar

1 cinnamon stick, lightly crushed Pinch of grated nutmeg 8 figs, stemmed 1

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) crème fraîche

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) hard apple cider 1 sprig fresh rosemary 2 tsp grainy mustard 6 figs, halved lengthwise 1 Tbsp unsalted butter

In a nonreactive saucepan, bring the wine, sugar, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon stick, and nutmeg to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, add the figs, and simmer until just tender, 6–8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the figs to a serving dish. Raise the heat to high and cook the liquid until it thickens to a syrup, 8–10 minutes. Squeeze the bottom of each fig so it cracks open at the top. Place a spoonful of crème fraîche in each fig. Drizzle with some of the syrup. Serve right away.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Season the pork with salt and pepper. In an ovenproof frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Cook the pork, turning once, until browned, 4–5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Add the cider, rosemary, and mustard to the pan, bring to a boil, and scrape up any browned bits from the pan bottom. Cook until the cider is reduced by half, 3–4 minutes. Return the pork to the pan, place in the oven, and cook for 6 minutes. Remove from the oven, turn the pork, and add the figs. Return to the oven and cook until the pork is tender and registers 145°F (63°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 6–8 minutes longer. Transfer the pork and figs to a serving platter. Place the pan over medium heat and whisk in the butter to make a sauce. Spoon the sauce over the top of the pork and figs and serve right away.

PORK MEDALLIONS WITH ROASTED FIGS

PERSIMMONS WRAPPED IN SMOKED HAM

Persimmons Wrapped in Smoked Ham

Persimmon & Endive Salad

Roasted Persimmon Wedges with Pistachios

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

M AKES 6 SERVINGS

253 3

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 m l) balsam ic vinegar

2 Tbsp sherry vinegar

1

⁄2 sprig rosem ary

2 tsp m inced shallot

4 Fuyu persim m ons, each cut into 6 w edges

1 tsp grainy m ustard

2 Fuyu persim m ons, each cut into 12 w edges

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) w alnut oil

1 Tbsp honey 1 Tbsp m inced fresh thym e Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 Fuyu persim m ons, thinly sliced

m edium heat, cook the balsam ic vinegar

2 heads Belgian endive (chicory/ w itloof), cored and cut crossw ise into 1⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) strips

Preheat the oven to 45 0 °F (2 30 °C) . Line a

1 head radicchio, cored and cut into 1 ⁄2 -inch (12-m m ) strips

In a bowl, toss the persim m on wedges w ith

and rosem ary until the vinegar has reduced to 1 ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 6 0 m l) , 15 –20 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat, discard the rosem ary sprig, and let cool. Cut each slice of ham in half. Wrap a piece around each persim m on w edge ( use a toothpick to secure each ham slice, if desired) . Arrange the w rapped persim m ons on a serving plate, drizzle w ith the reduced balsam ic vinegar, and season w ith salt and pepper. Serve right away.

baking sheet with parchm ent ( baking) paper.

the olive oil, honey, thym e, and a generous 1

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) w alnuts, toasted

(page 264) and coarsely chopped In a sm all bowl, stir together the vinegar, shallot, m ustard, and a pinch each of salt

pinch each of salt and pepper. Transfer to the prepared sheet and spread out in one layer. Roast the persim m ons until just tender, 12–15 m inutes.

and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly

Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle w ith

add the olive and walnut oils until well

the pistachios. Serve right away.

com bined to m ake a vinaigrette. In a large bowl, com bine the sliced persim m ons, endive, radicchio, and walnuts. Add half of the vinaigrette and toss w ell to m ix. Add m ore vinaigrette as needed to lightly coat the endive and radicchio. Serve right away.

HACHIYA PERSIMMONS

PERSIMMON BREAD

The deep orange Hachiya persim m on

In a stand m ixer fitted with a paddle attachm ent,

and beat on low speed until com bined. Stir in

m ust be ripened until m eltingly soft before

m ix together 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g) softened

1

1

1

⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 1 2 5 g) sour cream and 1 cup

unsalted butter, ⁄2 cup ( 3 ⁄2 oz/ 1 0 5 g) light

( 8 oz/ 240 g) peeled and puréed Hachiya

the fle sh is cre a m y a nd rich, with a hint

brown sugar, and 1 ⁄2 cup ( 4 oz/ 125 g) sugar

persim m ons. Transfer to a buttered 9-by-5-by-

of hone y a nd pum pkin fla vor. Puré e d,

until fluffy. Add 2 large eggs and 1 tsp pure

3 -inch ( 23 -by-13-by-7.5 -cm ) loaf pan. Bake in

it is a gre a t fla voring for m uffins a nd

vanilla extract and beat well. In a separate bowl,

a 350°F ( 180°C) oven until a toothpick inserted

quick-bre a d ba tte rs, custa rds, puddings,

com bine 1 1 ⁄2 cups ( 7 1 ⁄2 oz/ 235 g) all-purpose

into the center com es out clean, about 1 hour.

ice cre a m s, a nd pie s. Ava ila ble in the

( plain) flour, 1 tsp baking soda ( bicarbonate of

Cool on a rack for 10 m inutes, then unm old,

fall at the farm ers’ m arket.

soda) , and 1 tsp salt. Add to the butter m ixture

and let cool com pletely. Makes 1 loaf.

it is e dible . Whe n the fruit ha s ripe ne d,

PERSIM M O N S

1 ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped

In a sm all nonreactive saucepan over

TREE FRU ITS

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

12 thin slices sm oked ham

Other Fruits RHUBARB

Notable fruits found a t the farm ers’ m arke t tha t do not belong to another fam ily are rhubarb and grape s, two very distinct

GRAPES

produce item s. Cla ssifie d by botanists a s a ve ge table, rhubarb is com m only re garde d a s a fruit, though it is use d in savory a s well a s swe e t prepara tions. The stalks are e dible only a fter cooking and, de spite being swe e tene d, re tain an appealing and unm istakable tartne ss. Wherea s only one varie ty of rhubarb is grown for the m arke t, m any type s of grape s are cultiva te d. Most are swe e t and juicy; som e can be slightly tart. The ance stors of today’s rhubarb were wild plants growing in Asia. Rhubarb e ventually travele d to Europe, where it wa s appre cia te d for its m e dicinal qualitie s be fore it wa s use d in the kitchen. Grape s, on the other hand, are an ancient fruit grown by the Eg yptians, Gre eks, and Rom ans. Grape s can be divide d into two broad color groups: re d or gre en. Within the se general ca te gorie s, grape s are distinguishe d from each other a s those having se e ds or those tha t are se e dle ss. Rhuba rb u sua lly ha s two growing se a son s: spring a nd sum m e r. Ea ch o f the m a ny va rie tie s o f gra pe is ha rve ste d during a diffe re n t m on th, bu t m ost gra pe s a ppe a r a t the m arke t from spring to autum n.

BUYING RHUBARB Look for crisp, firm , brightly colored stalks free of blem ishes or dried areas. Younger, narrower stalks w ith darker red or pink color tend to be sweeter and m ore tender than w ider or light-colored stalks. Avoid tough, stringy rhubarb stalks that are turning green. The stalks can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Rhubarb First dom e stica te d in China ne a rly 3 ,0 0 0 ye a rs a go, rhuba rb spre a d we st in the 18 th ce ntury to Russia a nd Europe, whe re it wa s m uch de sire d for its m a ny he aling prope rtie s. Now rhuba rb is grown m ostly in cool clim a te s. Its long, cele ry-like stalks ra nge in color from pale pink to che rry re d, with growing tinge s o f gre e n a s the pla nt m a ture s. Although actually a ve ge ta ble, rhuba rb is now tre a te d m uch like a fruit in the kitche n. Its young stalks m ay be com bine d with other fruits, e spe cially strawberrie s, which also com e to m a rke t with the rhuba rb during spring a nd e a rly sum m e r. Rhuba rb is usually cooke d with a good dose o f suga r to balance its pronounced tartness. Its delicious transformation a fte r swe e te ning a nd cooking ha s e a rne d it the nickna m e “pie pla nt.” Cobbler, sorbe t, relishe s, and brightly fla vore d sauce s to accom pa ny duck or ga m e a re o the r cla ssic use s for the fruit.

WORKING WITH RHUBARB Trim away any rhubarb leaves—they should not be eaten. If the stalks are fibrous, rem ove tough exterior strings w ith a vegetable peeler. Refresh lim p stalks by trim m ing the bottom and standing them in cold water. To retain their color during long cooking, im m erse stalks in boiling water for 1 to 2 m inutes, and then im m ediately rinse in cold water before continuing the recipe.

BUYING GRAPES Choose grapes that are plum p, firm , and colorful. Avoid grape bunches w ith any m old, bruises, or clusters of soft fruit that fall easily from their stem s. Bloom is a naturally occurring pow dery substance that covers freshly harvested grapes. Whether green or red, grapes can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up 1 week.

Grapes Gra pe s com e in m a ny size s a nd colors. Their coloring ra nge s from spa rkling silve r gre e n to de e p purple black. The y re fle ct the spe cific lo ca l condition s o f soil a nd clim a te in which they we re cultiva te d. Ne a rly 9 0 pe rce nt o f the gra pe s grown for the ta ble belong to the Europe a n spe cie s Vitis vinifera. Along with fa m ous wine varie tals, this group include s gra pe s like the re d Em pe ror; crunchy Flame; blue -black Royal; and the oblong, green Thompson. Le ss fa m ilia r va rie tie s such a s the fra gra nt Musca t a nd the Musca dine a re highly local spe cialitie s. De pe nding on the spe cific va rie ty, gra pe s com e to m a rke t from la te spring through sum m e r to e a rly fall. Conve nie nt to e a t, gra pe s are m ost com m only e njoye d fre sh a s ca sual snacks or a s ga rnish on pla tte rs. They fre que ntly a dd color to sala ds; a ppe a r in cla ssic sauce s to a ccom pa ny sa u té e d fish, m e a ts, a nd poultry; a nd ca n be a dde d into bre a ds or pa strie s.

WORKING WITH GRAPES Rinse grapes carefully just before eating or cooking and let them drain on paper towels. For the m ost flavor w hen eating grapes fresh, bring them to room tem perature. Snip large bunches into sm aller clusters w ith kitchen shears for using as a garnish on breakfast platters or cheese trays.

Shaved Rhubarb Salad with Almonds & Cheese

Pork Tenderloin with Rhubarb Chutney

Tangy Rhubarb– Strawberry Pie

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

1 Tbsp fresh orange juice

1 cup (7 oz/ 220 g) light brown sugar

Pie Dough (page 263)

1 Tbsp white wine vinegar

1

Grated zest of 1 orange

1 Tbsp grated lemon zest

Pinch of sugar

3–4 rhubarb stalks, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces

r hubar b

ot her f r uit

258

Salt and freshly ground pepper ⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) cider vinegar

1 cinnamon stick 2 Tbsp minced fresh ginger

1 stalk rhubarb

1

⁄2 cup (3 oz/ 90 g) golden raisins (sultanas)

6 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) mixed baby spring lettuces

1

⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) chopped walnuts

1

⁄8 tsp salt

⁄3 cup (1 ⁄2 oz/ 45 g) slivered almonds, toasted 1

1

4 oz (125 g) fresh goat cheese In a small bowl, stir together the orange juice, vinegar, orange zest, sugar and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil to make a vinaigrette until well combined. Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, shave the rhubarb into paper-thin slices. Place in a bowl with the lettuces and almonds. Add half the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Add more vinaigrette if needed to lightly coat the lettuces. Crumble the goat cheese over the top and serve right away.

1 pork tenderloin, 1–11⁄4 lb (500–625 g) In a nonreactive saucepan over low heat, cook the sugar, vinegar, and lemon zest, stirring until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Add the rhubarb, cinnamon, and ginger. Raise heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the rhubarb is soft, about 15 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick. Add the raisins, walnuts, and salt and cook for about 3 minutes. Let cool. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C) . Line a small roasting pan with aluminum foil. Oil a flat roasting rack and place in the pan. Place the pork on the rack. Roast the pork until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 140–150°F (60–65°C) for medium–well done, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the roast to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes. Transfer the pork to a carving board and cut into slices 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick. Arrange on a warmed platter, top with the chutney, and serve right away.

11⁄2 lb (500 g) strawberries, hulled and thickly sliced (about 3 cups/ 12 oz/ 375 g) 11⁄2 lb (750 g) rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 3⁄4 -inch (2-cm) pieces (about 3 cups/ 12 oz/ 375 g) 1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) sugar ⁄4 cup (1 oz/ 30 g) plus 1 Tbsp cornstarch (cornflour) 1

1 large egg white, lightly beaten with a few drops of water until slightly foamy 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces P ositiona rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 425 °F ( 220°C ) . O n a lightly flou red work surface, roll out the larger pastry disk into a 13- inch ( 33- cm) T round about 1⁄8 inch ( 3 mm) thick. ransfer to a 9 - inch ( 23- cm) pie pan, easing it into the bottom and sides. Trim the overhang remaining to 1⁄2 inch ( 12 mm) . R oll out the pastry and transfer to a baking sheet. P lace both pans in the refrigerator. I na large bowl, toss together the strawberries, and rhubarb. I n a small bowl, stir together the sugar and cornstarch until free of lumps. Add to the fruit mixture and toss to combine. Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and brush the bottom and sides with the egg wash. Spoon the fruit mixture evenly into the dish. Dot with the butter. Place the top crust over the fruit and trim the edges to leave a 3⁄4 -inch (2-cm) overhang. Fold the edge of the top crust under the edge of the bottom crust, then crimp to seal. Cut a few vents in the top. Set the pie on a baking sheet. Bake until the crust is golden, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool for at least 1 hour before serving.

TANGY RHUBARB– STRAWBERRY PIE

FOCACCIA WITH GRAPES

WALNUTS

Arugula, Blue Cheese & Grape Salad

Focaccia with Grapes & Walnuts

Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Champagne Grapes

MAKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

6 cups (6 oz/ 185 g) arugula (rocket)

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing

261

Salt and freshly ground pepper 11⁄2 cups (9 oz/ 280 g) seedless purple grapes 1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) crumbled blue cheese

3 fresh rosemary sprigs 1

⁄2 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) walnuts, chopped

2 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose (plain) flour, plus extra for kneading 1 Tbsp active dry yeast

Divide the salad among serving plates and serve right away.

3

⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/ 180 ml) lukewarm water

1 Tbsp aniseeds, coarsely ground 11⁄2 tsp coarse salt 2 Tbsp sugar 11⁄2 cups (9 oz/ 280 g) seedless red grapes In a frying pan over medium heat, warm the 1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) olive oil and rosemary sprigs until they sizzle. Remove from the heat. Add the walnuts and discard the rosemary. Set aside. In a small bowl, stir together 1⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) of the flour, the yeast, and 1 ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) of the water. Let stand until bubbles form, about 20 minutes. Add the aniseeds, 1⁄2 tsp of the salt, the sugar, the remaining 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 120 ml) water, and the walnuts and rosemary oil. Stir in the remaining 13⁄4 cups (81⁄2 oz/ 270 g) flour. Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes, adding just enough flour to prevent sticking. Place in a well-oiled bowl and turn the dough to oil the top. Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 hour. Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and place a pizza stone on the rack. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Punch down the dough and turn out onto a floured surface. Roll out into a large oval 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) thick. Transfer to a baking sheet. Make shallow evenly spaced indentations in the surface. Brush with olive oil. Press the grapes into the indentations and sprinkle with the remaining salt. Bake on the stone until golden and crisp 15–20 minutes.

4 boneless, skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, each about 6 oz (185 g) 1 cup (6 oz/ 185 g) Champagne grapes, plus 4 small clusters for garnish 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) dry white wine

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) chicken broth

3 Tbsp minced fresh cilantro (fresh coriander) 1

⁄4 tsp freshly ground pepper

I na nonstick frying pan over medium- high heat, melt the butter. Add the chicken and cook, turning once, until lightly browned, 30–60 seconds per side. Add 1 Tbsp of the grapes and stir for a few seconds. Add the wine and broth and scrape up any browned bits from the pan bottom. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer just until the chicken is opaque throughout, 7–8 minutes. Add the remaining measured grapes and all but 1 tsp of the cilantro. Stir well, cover, and cook just long enough to warm the grapes, 30–60 seconds. Season with the pepper. Transfer the chicken to warmed plates. Top with the pan juices and grapes. Garnish with the remaining 1 tsp cilantro and the grape clusters. Serve right away.

gr apes

Place the arugula in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste to make a dressing. Drizzle the dressing over the arugula and toss well. Add the grapes and blue cheese and toss again.

2 tsp unsalted butter

ot her f r uit

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1

BASIC RECIPES Basil Oil

BASIC RECIPES

262

M AKES 1⁄2 CUP ( 4 FL OZ/ 125 M L)

edges of the pan. Rem ove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 20 m inutes to let

Tapenade M AKES 1 1⁄2 CUPS ( 12 OZ/ 375 G)

the flavors develop. Strain the sage pieces 1

⁄2 cup ( 1⁄2 oz/ 15 g) fresh basil, chopped

1

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

out of the cream and use right away.

In a blender, com bine the chopped basil

Romesco Sauce

and olive oil and blend until com bined.

M AKES 1 CUP ( 8 FL OZ/ 250 M L)

Transfer the basil oil to a sterilized bottle or jar. Use right away or cover tightly and store at room tem perature for up to 2 days.

1 oz (30 g) baguette chunks, crusts rem oved 3 Tbsp red w ine vinegar 1

⁄3 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) alm onds,

Green Goddess Dressing

toasted (page 264)

M AKES 1⁄3 CUP ( 3 FL OZ/ 8 0 M L)

1

1 cup (8 oz/ 250 g) low -fat plain yogurt 1 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) loosely packed w atercress leaves and tender stem s 2 Tbsp chopped fresh dill 1 green (spring) onion, including tender green tops, thinly sliced 1

⁄2 tsp sugar

Salt 1

⁄8 tsp hot-pepper sauce

⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/ 45 g) drained

bowl w ith cold water to cover and soak for

olives, garlic, anchovies, and thym e. Using

Pinch of cayenne pepper

a pestle, and working in a circular m otion,

1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) olive oil

In a bowl, com bine the bread w ith the red w ine vinegar. Put the toasted alm onds in

and process until sm ooth. Pour the dressing

oil in a slow stream and process until sm ooth.

into a container w ith a tight-fitting lid and

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

refrigerate for serveral hours or up to

packed capers, rinse, drain, and pat dry.

grind together until evenly chopped. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while stirring constantly w ith the pestle until a very finely chopped spread form s. Alternatively, in a food processor com bine the capers, olives, garlic, anchovies, and thym e and process until finely chopped, about 1 m inute. Then, w ith the m otor running, pour in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream and process until very finely chopped. Season to taste w ith pepper. Serve right away or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

first m ade, but it w ill thicken, and the flavors

Asian Dipping Sauce

m ellow, w hen refrigerated. Shake or stir

M AKES 1⁄2 CUP ( 4 FL OZ/ 125 M L)

well before serving. The dressing w ill keep 1

⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/ 60 m l) light soy sauce

Cooked White Rice M AKES 4 – 6 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp rice vinegar

1 cup long-grain w hite rice

2 tsp Asian sesam e oil

11⁄2 cups (12 fl oz/ 375 m l) w ater

2 tsp chile paste 2 tsp m inced green (spring) onion

12 fresh sage leaves w ith stem s intact, coarsely chopped

1 tsp sugar

⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/ 125 m l) heavy (double) cream

In a sm all bowl, whisk together the soy sauce,

cook until sm all bubbles appear along the

If using salt-packed capers, place in a

In a large m ortar, com bine the capers,

sm ooth. With the m otor running, pour the

saucepan. Place over m edium heat and

Freshly ground pepper

1 tsp paprika

garlic, paprika, and cayenne. Purée until

Com bine the sage and cream in a sm all

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic

sugar, 1 ⁄2 tsp salt, and hot-pepper sauce

1

1 tsp dried thym e 1

Pat dry on paper tow els. If using vinegar-

the bread, tom atoes, red pepper (capsicum ) ,

M AKES 1⁄3 CUP ( 3 FL OZ/ 8 0 M L)

6 – 8 anchovy fillets, rinsed

20 m inutes. Drain, rinse well, and drain again.

the yogurt, watercress, dill, green onion,

Sage Cream

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 roasted red pepper (capsicum ) (page 264), sliced

a food processor and pulse until grainy. Add

for up to 3 days.

11⁄2 green or black olives, such as picholine or niçoise, or a m ixture of both

diced tom atoes

In a food processor or blender, com bine

overnight. The dressing w ill be thin when

3 Tbsp capers

vinegar, sesam e oil, chile paste, green onion, and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Stir in 2 Tbsp warm water. Use right away or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Place the rice in a fine-m esh sieve and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. Transfer the rice to a heavy saucepan and add the water. Cover the pan, place it over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and sim m er, undisturbed, for about 20 m inutes. Rem ove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 m inutes. Fluff the rice w ith a fork and serve right away.

Pastry Dough M AKES ON E 10 – 15 INCH ( 25 – 4 0 CM ) PASTRY SH ELL

the recipe or do the follow ing: on a floured w ork surface, roll out the larger portion

Cobbler Crust M AKES CRUST FOR A 2 - QT ( 2 -L) COBBLER

into a round about 10 inches (25 cm ) in diam eter and 1 ⁄8 inch (3 m m ) thick. Drape

1 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1 3⁄4 cups (9 oz/ 280 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

the round over the rolling pin and carefully

1

1 tsp sugar

the overhang to 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) .

1 tsp baking pow der 1

1 1

⁄2 tsp coarse salt ⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) cold unsalted butter,

On a floured w ork surface, roll out the rem aining dough portion into a round about

cut into sm all pieces

9 inches (2 3 cm ) in diam eter and ⁄8 inch

3 Tbsp vegetable shortening

(3 m m ) thick. Place the round on a baking

4 –5 Tbsp ice w ater

1

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) sugar

⁄2 tsp salt

⁄4 cup (2 oz/ 60 g) chilled unsalted butter, cut into sm all pieces 1

1

⁄3 cup (3 fl oz/ 80 m l) w hole m ilk

sheet and refrigerate until ready to use. In a bow l, com bine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Toss w ith a fork to blend.

Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and process to com bine. Sprinkle in the butter pieces and add the shortening. Pulse the m ixture just until com bined and it still has a few pea-sized pieces of butter

Cornmeal Shortcake M AKES ON E 8 -INCH ( 20 - CM ) ROUN D OR SIX 2 -INCH ( 5 - CM ) SQUARES

in it. Sprinkle in 3 Tbsp of the ice water and

11⁄2 cups (7 1⁄2 oz/ 235 g) unbleached all-purpose (plain) flour

pulse again until the dough just com es

1

together when squeezed in your hand. If the dough is still dry, add a bit m ore water as needed. Turn the dough out onto a large sheet of plastic w rap and press it into a disk. Cover w ith another sheet of plastic and, using a rolling pin, roll into a rough circle, to the thickness required by your recipe. Chill in the refrigerator until firm , 15 –20 m inutes.

Pie Dough M AKES ON E DOUBLE- CRUST 8 -INCH ( 20 - CM ) PIE SH ELL

⁄2 cup (2 1⁄2 oz/ 75 g) yellow cornm eal

Using a pastry blender, cut in the butter until the m ixture resem bles coarse crum bs. Add the m ilk and stir until a stiff dough form s. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead quickly into a ball. It w ill be sticky. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Flour the work surface and, using

1 Tbsp baking pow der

a rolling pin or your fingers, spread out the

1 Tbsp sugar

dough into a round 1 ⁄2 inch (12 m m ) thick.

1

⁄2 tsp salt

2 Tbsp chilled unsalted butter, cut into sm all pieces 1 cup (11 fl oz/ 340 m l) heavy double cream Preheat the oven to 42 5 °F (2 20 °C) . Line a baking sheet with parchm ent ( baking) paper. In a bowl, stir together the flour, cornm eal, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Cut in the

Cut out 8 equal sized rounds. Set aside until ready for use.

Crisp Topping M AKES 3 CUPS ( 15 OZ/ 470 G) 3 ⁄4 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) alm onds, toasted (page 264)

11⁄2 cups (7 1⁄2 oz/ 235 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

2 cups (10 oz/ 315 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

butter with a pastry blender until the m ixture

2

resem bles coarse m eal. Add the cream

1 tsp salt

gradually, stirring until the m ixture begins

⁄2 cup (3 1⁄2 oz/ 105 g) firm ly packed brow n sugar

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) unsalted butter, at room tem perature, cut into sm all pieces

to com e together. Knead briefly in the bowl

1

5 – 6 Tbsp (3 fl oz/ 90 m l) ice w ater

⁄3 cup (5 oz/ 155 g) granulated sugar

1

1 tsp ground cinnam on

until a soft, m oist dough com es together into 1

a ball. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured

⁄2 tsp ground ginger

work surface and knead gently 3 or 4 tim es.

Salt

Sift the flour into a bowl, then resift w ith the

Pat the dough into a round about 8 -inches

1

salt. Pour the flour into a food processor, then

(20 -cm ) in diam eter ( to m ake individual

add the butter. Process until pea-sized pieces

shortcakes, shape the dough into a 5 1 ⁄2 -by-

form , 1–2 m inutes. Add the ice water and

12-inch/ 14 -by-3 0 -cm rectangle and cut

In a bowl, stir together the alm onds, flour,

process until the dough gathers into a ball.

into 6 equal squares) and transfer to

granulated sugar, brow n sugar, cinnam on,

a baking sheet.

ginger, and a pinch of salt. Add the butter

Rem ove the dough from the processor and divide roughly in half with 1 portion slightly

Bake until risen and golden brow n, about

larger than the other. Prepare as directed in

20 m inutes. Serve as directed in the recipe.

⁄2 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) chilled unsalted butter, cut into sm all pieces

and, using a pastry blender, cut in until the m ixture resem bles coarse cornm eal. Set aside until ready to use.

BASIC RECIPES

transfer to an 8 -inch (20 -cm ) pie pan. Trim

263

TECHNIQUES

TECH N IQ U ES

264

Roasting Peppers

Blanching Vegetables

Paring Tough Stalks

Roast the pepper (capsicum ) over the

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to

Tough stalks such as asparagus or broccoli

flam e of a gas burner or in a preheated

a boil. Add the vegetables and blanch until

m ay be peeled to help them cook through.

broiler ( grill) , turning w ith tongs as needed,

tender-crisp, about 5 m inutes for stalky

Use a sm all, sharp paring knife or a sturdy,

until the skin is blistered and charred

vegetables such as asparagus, green beans,

sharp vegetable peeler to peel off just

black on all sides, about 10 –15 m inutes.

or carrots and 10 m inutes for heavy, denser

enough of the thick outer skin to reveal

vegetables such as potatoes. Transfer to a

the tender flesh beneath.

Slip the pepper into a paper bag and fold over the top of the bag to create a closed environm ent. The steam created by the hot

colander and rinse under cold running water until cool. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

pepper w ill soften the flesh and skin and also allow the skin to be easily rem oved.

Toasting Nuts

Direct-heat Grilling Charcoal grill Using long-handled tongs, arrange ignited coals into 3 heat zones:

Rem ove the stem and discard. Slit the Position a rack in the m iddle of the oven

one 2 or 3 layers deep in one-third of the

and preheat to 325°F (165°C) . Spread the

fire bed, another that is 1 or 2 layers deep

nuts in a single layer on a rim m ed baking

in another third of the fire bed, and leaving

sheet or a pie pan. Toast, stirring occasionally,

the final third of the fire bed free of coals.

until the nuts are fragrant and their color

When the coals are covered w ith a layer of

deepens, 5 to 20 m inutes, depending on

white ash, place the food on the grill grate

the type of nut and the size of the pieces.

directly over the first layer of coals, w hich

For exam ple, sliced ( flaked) alm onds w ill

should be the hottest. M ove the food to

Scrub the fruit well to rem ove any wax.

toast quickly while the hazelnuts ( filberts)

another area of the grill if the heat seem s

Gently pull a citrus zester over the surface

w ill take m uch longer.

too high, the food appears to be cooking too

pepper open, then rem ove and discard the seeds and ribs. Place the pepper on a cutting board and rem ove the blackened skin w ith a paring knife or your fingers. Do not rinse.

Zesting Citrus

to produce fine shreds of colored zest. Or push the fruit against the fine rasps of a handheld grater or the razor-edged holes

fast, or if flare-ups occur.

Toasting Seeds

as high as they w ill go. Close the grill cover

of a M icroplane grater. Do not grate the bitter white pith beneath the zest. If you also need to use the juice of the lem on, rem ove the zest before juicing.

Segmenting Citrus Cut a slice from the top and bottom of

Place the seeds in a dry, heavy frying pan

and let the grill heat for 10 –20 m inutes

over m edium heat and warm until they

before using. When you’re ready to cook,

are fragrant and just begin to change color,

turn one of the heat elem ents off. Place

shaking the pan as necessary to prevent

the food on the grill grate directly over the

scorching. This should take only a few

hottest part of the grill. Turn dow n the heat

m inutes. Pour onto a plate, let cool, then

as needed to adjust the grill tem perature,

grind in a spice grinder or w ith a m ortar

or m ove the food to the cool zone if

and pestle.

flare-ups occur.

the citrus to reveal the flesh. Stand the fruit upright and slice dow nward to rem ove the peel and white pith. Holding the fruit

Hard-Boiling Eggs

in one hand, cut along either side of each segm ent to release it from the m em brane, let ting the segm ents drop into a bow l. When all the segm ents have been rem oved, squeeze the rem aining m em brane over the

Gas grill Turn on all the heat elem ents

Fill a saucepan w ith salted water and bring to a full boil over high heat. Gently lower 1 or m ore eggs into the water and reduce the heat to low. Sim m er for 8 m inutes.

bow l to extract all the juice. Repeat w ith

Transfer the eggs to a bowl filled w ith ice

the rem aining fruits. Rem ove the citrus

and water to stop the cooking. After a few

segm ents and place them in a large bowl.

m inutes, rem ove the eggs from the water and hit them against a counter to crack, then peel away and discard the shells.

INDEX A

Grilled Asparagus w ith Rosem ary Oil and Parm esan, 130

Aioli, Garlic, w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

266

Spaghetti w ith Roasted Asparagus

Alm onds

and Cream , 130

Crisp Topping, 26 3

IN D EX

Fresh Ricotta and Cherry Parfaits, 2 27

Avocados, 15 8

Rom esco Sauce, 262

Avocado and Shrim p Sum m er Rolls, 16 0

Sautéed Apricots w ith Mascarpone

Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato Tartines, 16 0

Tem pura String Beans w ith Aioli, 28 Warm Beans w ith Lem on Vinaigrette, 31 wax, 27 Beef Beef and Sweet Potato Stir-Fry, 8 6 Beef, Broccoli, and Crisp Garlic Sauté, 42 Beets, 85

Classic Guacam ole w ith Tortilla Chips, 16 0

Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92

Shaved Artichoke and Blue Cheese Salad, 176

Grapefruit, Avocado, and Crab Salad, 210

Golden Beet and Blue Cheese Risotto, 89

Shaved Rhubarb Salad w ith Alm onds and

Waterm elon Radish Salad w ith Avocado

Roasted Beet Soup w ith Feta and Dill, 89

and Alm onds, 2 24

Vinaigrette, 10 4

Cheese, 25 8 and Alm onds, 6 6 toasting, 26 4

B

Belgian endive

Bacon

Anchoiade, Grilled Radicchio w ith, 7 2

Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato Tartines, 16 0

Apples, 5 4, 2 36

Baby Spinach w ith Apples and

Apple and Artisan Cheddar Panini, 2 38 Baby Spinach w ith Apples and Pecans, 69 Rustic Apple Crostata, 2 38

Pecans, 69 Brussels Sprout Leaves w ith Bacon, 4 8 Cranberry Bean, Broccoli Rabe, and Bacon Salad, 2 2

Sautéed Apples w ith Pork Chops, 2 38

Frisée Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 63

Turnip, Apple, and Potato Soup, 101

Penne with Radicchio, Bacon, and Fontina, 72

Apricots, 2 2 2 Chicken Thighs w ith Roasted Apricots, 2 24

Rom ano Beans w ith Bacon and Bread Crum bs, 31

Crisp Apricot Turnovers, 2 24

Bars, Lim e Curd, w ith Coconut Crust, 201

Sautéed Apricots w ith Mascarpone

Basil Oil, 262

and Alm onds, 2 24 Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese, 2 33 Aprium s, 2 33 Aprium Muffins, 2 33

Roasted Beets w ith Goat Cheese and Herbs, 89

Swordfish w ith Arugula, Currants,

Beans, 19

Persim m on and Endive Salad, 253 Roasted Endive and Pear Salad, 7 2 Bellini, Peach, 2 30 Berries, 181. See also individual berries Blackberries, 18 3 Baby Arugula Salad w ith Berries and Gorgonzola, 187 Breakfast Polenta w ith Blackberries, 187 M ixed Berry Cobbler w ith Cinnam on, 187 Black Cod, Grilled, w ith Cucum bers and Ginger, 151 Blueberries, 18 8 Baby Arugula Salad w ith Berries and Gorgonzola, 187

Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham and Pasta, 22

Blueberry Sum m er Pudding, 19 0

Cranberry Bean, Broccoli Rabe, and Bacon

Blueberry-Vanilla Panna Cotta, 19 0

Salad, 2 2 Crostini w ith Fava Bean Spread, 25

Butterm ilk Blueberry Pancakes, 19 0 Bread

Edam am e w ith Sea Salt, 2 2

Apple and Artisan Cheddar Panini, 2 38

fava, 21

Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato Tartines, 16 0

Fava Beans w ith Olive Oil and Lem on, 25

Crostini w ith Fava Bean Spread, 25

Shaved Artichoke and Blue Cheese Salad, 176

Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

Crostini w ith Sm oked Duck and Cherry

Steam ed Artichokes with Dill Mayonnaise, 176

green, 26

Artichokes, 165 , 174 Artichokes Stewed w ith Lem on and Garlic, 176

Arugula, 6 4 Arugula, Blue Cheese, and Grape Salad, 261 Arugula, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Salad, 6 6 Baby Arugula Salad w ith Berries and Gorgonzola, 187 Nectarines w ith Arugula and Burrata Cheese, 2 30 Spaghetti w ith Arugula-M int Pesto, 6 6 Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese, 2 33 Swordfish w ith Arugula, Currants, and Alm onds, 6 6

Fig and From age Blanc Crostini, 25 0

Halibut w ith Braised Escarole and

Focaccia w ith Grapes and Walnuts, 261

White Beans, 7 2 long, 28 Long Beans w ith Sesam e Seeds, 28

Sm oked Chicken, Grilled Pear, and Fontina Sandw ich, 241 Spicy Broccoli Rabe Bruschetta, 51

Orecchiette w ith Kale, Chickpeas,

Tea Sandw iches w ith Trout, Radishes,

and Sausage, 75 Pasta w ith Fava Beans, Green Garlic, and Prosciutto, 25 Roasted Chicken Breasts w ith Fresh Beans and Sage, 2 2 rom ano, 31

Asian pears, 241

Rom ano Beans w ith Bacon and

Asparagus, 121, 128

Persim m on Bread, 253

M ixed Garden Bean Salad w ith Shallots, 31

Asian Dipping Sauce, 262 Pear, Hazelnut, and Dill Salad, 241

Relish, 2 27

Green Beans w ith Toasted Walnuts, 28

Bread Crum bs, 31 Sautéed Wax Beans w ith Tapenade, 31

Asparagus Om elet with Chives and Garlic, 130

shell, 20

Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

Stewed Green Beans w ith Tom atoes, 28

and Blue Cheese, 10 4 Breakfast Polenta w ith Blackberries, 187 Broccoli, 4 0 Beef, Broccoli, and Crisp Garlic Sauté, 42 Broccoli and Cheddar Soup, 42 Roasted Broccoli w ith Red Pepper Flakes, 42 Broccoli rabe, 47 Cranberry Bean, Broccoli Rabe, and Bacon Salad, 2 2 Italian Sausage w ith Broccoli Rabe, 51

Orecchiette w ith Broccoli Rabe, 51

Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts w ith, 4 8

Spicy Broccoli Rabe Bruschetta, 51

Chicken

Brussels sprouts, 4 6

Chicken Thighs w ith Roasted Apricots, 2 24

Brussels Sprouts w ith Chestnuts, 4 8

Roasted Chicken Breasts w ith Fresh

Pasta w ith Brussels Sprouts, Shallots,

Beans and Sage, 2 2

Crostini w ith Sm oked Duck and Cherry Fig and From age Blanc Crostini, 25 0 Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92 Cucum bers, 147 Avocado and Shrim p Sum m er Rolls, 16 0

Grapes, 261

Chilled Spicy Cucum ber Gazpacho, 151

Sm oked Chicken, Grilled Pear, and Fontina

Cucum ber Salad w ith Yogurt-Dill

Sandw ich, 241

C

Sauce, 151

Chickpeas, Orecchiette w ith Kale, Sausage,

Cabbage, 52– 53 Braised Cabbage w ith Apples, 5 4 Red and Green Butterm ilk Coleslaw, 5 4 Stuffed Cabbage Leaves w ith Sausage and Onion, 5 4 Cakes Quince Teacake w ith Sweet Syrup, 247

Carrot Purée w ith Tarragon, 92 Carrot Salad w ith Cum in, Coriander, and Cilantro, 92 Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92

Sweet-and-Sour Cucum ber Salad, 151

Chiles, 153

Custard, Orange, w ith Caram elized Oranges, 20 4

dried, 157 Fried Eggs w ith Charred Chiles and Crèm e Fraîche, 157 Jalapeños Stuffed w ith Sausage and Cheese, 157

D Date and Mandarin Com pote, 207 Drinks

Quesadilla w ith Queso Fresco

Blood Orange M im osa, 20 4

and Chiles, 157

Grilled Salm on w ith Spicy M elon Salsa, 216 Carrots, 9 0

pickling, 151

Escarole; Frisée

Cantaloupe, 214 Cantaloupe Cubes in Spiced Syrup, 216

and Ginger, 151

Chicories, 70 . See also Belgian endive;

Toasted Pound Cake w ith Spiced Clem entines, 207

Grilled Black Cod w ith Cucum bers

and, 75

Chile-Rubbed Corn on the Cob, 17 3

Frozen M elon Margarita, 216

Spicy Hot Cocoa, 157

Peach Bellini, 2 30

Citrus fruits. See also individual fruits segm enting, 26 4

Spicy Hot Cocoa, 157 Duck, Sm oked, Crostini w ith Cherry

types of, 195

Relish and, 2 27

zesting, 26 4

Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

Clafouti, Sweet Dark Cherry, 2 27

E

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables, 101

Clem entines, 20 3

Edam am e, 2 2

Roasted Baby Carrots w ith Honey Glaze, 92

Toasted Pound Cake w ith Spiced Clem entines, 207

Cashew, Pom elo, and Cilantro Salad, 210 Cauliflower, 41

Cobblers

Cream of Cauliflower Soup, 45

Cobbler Crust, 26 3

Golden Cauliflower Gratin w ith Capers, 45

M ixed Berry Cobbler w ith Cinnam on, 187

Pasta w ith Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Pine Nuts, 45 Celery, 121, 12 2

Cocoa, Spicy Hot, 157 Coconut Crust, Lim e Curd Bars w ith, 201 Coleslaw, Red and Green Butterm ilk, 5 4

Braised Celery w ith Lem on, 124

Com pote, Mandarin and Date, 207

Celery and Rice Soup w ith Parsley, 124

Conserve, Chunky Tom ato, 14 8

Celery, Parsley, and Prosciutto Salad, 124

Corn, 165 , 170

Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92 Celery root, 9 6 Celery Root and Potato Gratin with Thym e, 98

Chile-Rubbed Corn on the Cob, 17 3 Corn Pudding w ith Chives, 17 3 Risotto w ith Fresh Corn and Basil Oil, 17 3

Grated Celery Root Salad, 9 8 Puréed Celery Root w ith Chives, 9 8 Ceviche w ith Lim e and Herbs, 201 Cherries, 2 2 3 Crostini w ith Sm oked Duck and Cherry Relish, 2 27

Rolled Eggplant w ith Sausage and M ozzarella, 16 3 Sm oky Grilled Ratatouille, 16 3 Soy-Glazed Broiled Eggplant, 16 3 Eggs Asparagus Om elet w ith Chives and Garlic, 130 Baked Eggs w ith Spinach and Cream , 69 Fried Eggs w ith Charred Chiles and Crèm e Fraîche, 157 Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139 Hard-Boiled Eggs, 26 4 Savory Leek and Gruyère Soufflé, 142

Crab

Spanish Tortilla w ith Red Peppers, 8 0

Sautéed Pea Shoots w ith Crabm eat, 37 Cranberries, 189

Fresh Ricotta and Cherry Parfaits, 2 27

Cranberry-Orange Relish, 193

sour, 2 27

Fresh Cranberry Scones, 193

Sour Cherry Pie, 2 27

Tart Cranberry Sorbet, 193

Sweet Dark Cherry Clafouti, 2 27

Edam am e w ith Sea Salt, 2 2 Eggplant, 159

Cornm eal Shortcake, 26 3 Grapefruit, Avocado, and Crab Salad, 210

Crostata, Rustic Apple, 2 38

267

Relish, 2 27

Sw iss Chard, Onion, and Cheese Frittata, 75 Escarole Bitter Greens w ith Pecans and Balsam ic Vinaigrette, 6 3 Halibut w ith Braised Escarole and White Beans, 7 2

IN D EX

Sautéed Chicken Breasts w ith Cham pagne

Bulgur Pilaf w ith Pum pkin and Raisins, 119 Butterm ilk Blueberry Pancakes, 19 0

Crostini w ith Fava Bean Spread, 25

Chicken and Sugar Snap Pea Stir-Fry, 37

Brussels Sprout Leaves w ith Bacon, 4 8

and Asiago, 4 8

Crostini

Granita, Sum m er Waterm elon, 219

L

Farro and Yellow Squash Salad, 113

Grapefruit, 20 8

Lam b Chops, Pom egranate-Glazed, 24 4

Broiled Grapefruit w ith Brow n Sugar, 210

Fennel, 121, 12 3

IN D EX

268

F

Leeks, 14 0

Celery, Parsley, and Prosciutto Salad, 124

Grapefruit, Avocado, and Crab Salad, 210

Braised Leeks w ith Cream and Bacon, 142

Olive Oil– Braised Fennel w ith Lem on, 127

M int-Infused Grapefruit Sorbet, 210

Grilled Leeks w ith Rom esco Sauce, 142

Radish, Fennel, and Parsley Salad, 10 4

Watercress and Grapefruit Salad, 6 3

Roasted Fish Stuffed w ith Fennel

Grapes, 255 , 257

Savory Leek and Gruyère Soufflé, 142 Lem ons, 19 6

Arugula, Blue Cheese, and Grape Salad, 261

Fusilli w ith Lem on Zest and Ricotta, 19 8

Shaved Fennel Salad with Citrus Dressing, 127

Focaccia w ith Grapes and Walnuts, 261

Lem on Sorbet w ith Fresh Basil, 19 8

Tangerine, Fennel, and Olive Salad, 207

Sautéed Chicken Breasts w ith Cham pagne

Sautéed Snapper Fillets w ith Caram elized

and Fresh Herbs, 127

Grapes, 261

Figs, 24 8 Fig and From age Blanc Crostini, 25 0

Green Goddess Dressing, 262

Figs Sim m ered in Red Wine, 25 0

Green onions, 141, 142 Grilled Green Onions and Tom atoes, 142

Pork M edallions w ith Roasted Figs, 25 0 Fish, 11 Ceviche w ith Lim e and Herbs, 201 Grilled Black Cod w ith Cucum bers and Ginger, 151

Guacam ole, Classic, w ith Tortilla Chips, 16 0

Grilled Salm on w ith Spicy M elon Salsa, 216

Ceviche w ith Lim e and Herbs, 201

Halibut w ith Braised Escarole and White

Halibut w ith Braised Escarole and White Beans, 7 2 Seared Halibut w ith Wild Mushroom Ragout, 16 8

and Fresh Herbs, 127 Sautéed Snapper Fillets w ith Caram elized

Ham . See also Prosciutto

Lem ons, 19 8 Seared Halibut w ith Wild Mushroom Ragout, 16 8 and Alm onds, 6 6

M Mandarins, 20 3

Honeydew m elon, 214

Frisée Salad w ith Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 6 3

Honeydew -Lim e Ice Pops, 216 Huckleberries, 19 0 Huckleberry Crisp, 19 0

Fruits, seasonal, 14 –15. See also individual fruits

I

Gai lan, 42

Ice Cream , Straw berry– Crèm e Fraîche, 18 4

Cheese, 157

Vegetables, 101 Squash w ith Maple Butter, 116 Margarita, Frozen M elon, 216 Marm alade, Onion, 136

M eyer Lem on Curd, 19 8 M im osa, Blood Orange, 20 4

Snow Pea and M int Salad, 37 Spaghetti w ith Arugula-M int Pesto, 6 6 Waterm elon, Feta, and M int Salad, 219

K

Garlic Soup, 139

Kale, 71

Gazpacho, Chilled Spicy Cucum ber, 151

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root

M int-Infused Grapefruit Sorbet, 210

Jalapeños Stuffed w ith Sausage and

Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

Shrim p Sautéed in Garlic-Sherry Oil, 139

Breakfast Polenta w ith Blackberries, 187

M int

J

Artichokes Stewed with Lem on and Garlic, 176

Potatoes, 139

Satsum a, 20 3, 207 Maple syrup

M eyer lem ons, 19 8

Italian Sausage w ith Broccoli Rabe, 51

Garlic, 135

Mandarin and Date Com pote, 207

M elons, 213 . See also individual melons

G

Roasted Garlic– Olive Oil Mashed

Honeydew -Lim e Ice Pops, 216

Roasted Parsnips w ith Pears and

Grilled Salm on w ith Spicy M elon Salsa, 216

green, 139

Frozen M elon Margarita, 216

Pear, Hazelnut, and Dill Salad, 241

French Fries, Perfect, w ith Ketchup, 8 0

Frozen M elon Margarita, 216

Ceviche w ith Lim e and Herbs, 201

Lim e Curd Bars w ith Coconut Crust, 201

toasting, 26 4

Fraises des bois, 18 4

Galia m elon, 216

Vinaigrette, 10 4 Lim es, 197. See also Key lim es

Lim e and White Chocolate M ousse, 201

Blue Cheese, 2 33

Focaccia w ith Grapes and Walnuts, 261

Galette, Pluot, 2 24

Waterm elon Radish Salad w ith Avocado

Persim m ons Wrapped in Sm oked Ham , 253

Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and

and Blue Cheese, 10 4

Stir-Fried Gai Lan w ith Ginger, 42

Rom aine Hearts w ith Caesar Dressing, 6 0

Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham and Pasta, 22

Hazelnuts, 95

Tea Sandw iches w ith Trout, Radishes,

Frittata, Sw iss Chard, Onion, and Cheese, 75

M ixed Greens w ith Goat Cheese, 6 0

Hazelnuts

Swordfish w ith Arugula, Currants,

Fraises Des Bois Parfait, 18 4

Grapefruit, Avocado, and Crab Salad, 210

Roasted Endive and Pear Salad, 7 2

Halibut

Roasted Fish Stuffed w ith Fennel

Butter Lettuce w ith Mustard Vinaigrette, 6 0

Orange and Red Onion Salad, 20 4

H

Beans, 7 2

Lem ons, 19 8 Lettuce, 5 8 – 59

M ousse, Lim e and White Chocolate, 201 Orecchiette w ith Kale, Chickpeas, and Sausage, 75 Wilted Kale w ith Lem on and Garlic, 75

Key lim es, 201 Key Lim e– Infused Tapioca Pudding, 201

Muffins, Aprium , 2 33 Mushroom s, 165 , 16 6 Cream y Mushroom Soup w ith Sherry, 16 8 Seared Halibut w ith Wild Mushroom Ragout, 16 8 Wild Rice and Mushroom Pilaf, 16 8

N

Fusilli w ith Lem on Zest and Ricotta, 19 8

Piperade w ith M ixed Bell Peppers, 15 4

Nectarines, 2 28

Orecchiette w ith Broccoli Rabe, 51

Roasted Red Peppers w ith Fresh

Nectarine and Peach Gratin, 2 30 Nectarines w ith Arugula and Burrata Cheese, 2 30 Nuts, toasting, 26 4 . See also individual nuts

and Sausage, 75 Pasta w ith Brussels Sprouts, Shallots, and Asiago, 4 8 Pasta w ith Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Pine Nuts, 45

O

Pasta w ith Fava Beans, Green Garlic,

Olives

and Prosciutto, 25

Rom esco Sauce, 262 Sm oky Grilled Ratatouille, 16 3 Spanish Tortilla w ith Red Peppers, 8 0 Persim m ons, 249 Hachiya, 253 Persim m on and Endive Salad, 253

Tangerine, Fennel, and Olive Salad, 207

Penne with Radicchio, Bacon, and Fontina, 72

Persim m on Bread, 253

Tapenade, 262

Spaghettini w ith Fresh Plum Tom ato

Persim m ons Wrapped in Sm oked Ham , 253

Om elet, Asparagus, w ith Chives and Garlic, 130 Onions, 13 4 . See also Green onions Fried Onion Rings w ith Aioli, 136 Grilled Marinated Red Onions, 136

Sauce, 14 8

and Cream , 130

Onion Marm alade, 136

Pastry Dough, 26 3

Orange and Red Onion Salad, 20 4

Peaches, 2 28

sweet, 136 Sweet and Sour Onions, 136 Oranges, 202

Roasted Persim m on Wedges w ith Pistachios, 253

Spaghetti w ith Arugula-M int Pesto, 6 6 Spaghetti w ith Roasted Asparagus

Grilled Peaches w ith Honey and Black Pepper, 2 30 Nectarine and Peach Gratin, 2 30

Pies Pie Dough, 26 3 Sour Cherry Pie, 2 27 Tangy Rhubarb -Straw berry Pie, 25 8 Pilaf Bulgur Pilaf w ith Pum pkin and Raisins, 119 Wild Rice and Mushroom Pilaf, 16 8

blood, 20 4

Peach Bellini, 2 30

Piperade w ith M ixed Bell Peppers, 15 4

Blood Orange M im osa, 20 4

Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts

Pistachios

Cranberry-Orange Relish, 193 Orange and Red Onion Salad, 20 4 Orange Custard w ith Caram elized Oranges, 20 4 Pan-Seared Scallops w ith Sautéed Oranges, 20 4 Watercress Salad w ith Pom egranate and Citrus, 24 4

and Blue Cheese, 2 33

Pistachios, 253 Warm Plum s w ith Honey and Greek Yogurt, 2 33

Pear Tarte Tatin w ith Winter Spices, 241 Poached Pears in Riesling w ith Sweet Cream , 241 Roasted Endive and Pear Salad, 7 2

Plum s, 2 29 Roasted Plum s w ith Blue Cheese, 2 33 Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese, 2 33

Roasted Parsnips w ith Pears and Hazelnuts, 95

P

Roasted Persim m on Wedges w ith

w hite, 2 30 Pears, 2 37

Warm Plum s w ith Honey and Greek Yogurt, 2 33

Sm oked Chicken, Grilled Pear, and Fontina

Pancakes Butterm ilk Blueberry Pancakes, 19 0 Zucchini-Feta Pancakes Topped w ith Sour Cream , 110

Sandw ich, 241 Peas, 19, 32–33

Pluots, 2 24 Pluot Galette, 2 24

Chicken and Sugar Snap Pea Stir-Fry, 37

Polenta, Breakfast, w ith Blackberries, 187

English Pea and Ricotta Tart, 3 4

Pom egranates, 242

Panini, Apple and Artisan Cheddar, 2 38

English Peas w ith Prosciutto, 3 4

Frozen Pom egranate Sem ifreddo, 24 4

Panna Cotta, Blueberry-Vanilla, 19 0

Pea Soup with Crèm e Fraîche and Chives, 34

Pom egranate-Glazed Lam b Chops, 24 4

Parfaits

Snow Pea and M int Salad, 37

Watercress Salad w ith Pom egranate

Fraises Des Bois Parfait, 18 4 Fresh Ricotta and Cherry Parfaits, 2 27 Parsley Celery, Parsley, and Prosciutto Salad, 124 Radish, Fennel, and Parsley Salad, 10 4 Parsnips, 91 Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables, 101 Parsnip and Potato Purée w ith Chives, 95 Parsnips Glazed w ith Sherry and Ginger, 95 Roasted Parsnips w ith Pears and Hazelnuts, 95 Pasta and noodles Avocado and Shrim p Sum m er Rolls, 16 0 Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham and Pasta, 22

and Citrus, 24 4

Sugar Snap Pea Risotto, 37 Pea shoots, 37 Sautéed Pea Shoots w ith Crabm eat, 37 Pecans Baby Spinach w ith Apples and Pecans, 69 Bitter Greens w ith Pecans and Balsam ic Vinaigrette, 6 3 Fresh Straw berry and Spinach Salad, 18 4 toasting, 26 4 Peppers, 152 . See also Chiles

Pom elos, 210 Pom elo, Cilantro and Cashew Salad, 210 Pops, Honeydew -Lim e Ice, 216 Pork Pork M edallions w ith Roasted Figs, 25 0 Pork Tenderloin w ith Rhubarb Chutney, 25 8 Sautéed Apples w ith Pork Chops, 2 38 Potatoes, 78 –79 Celery Root and Potato Gratin with Thym e, 98 Crisp Skillet Potato Cake, 8 0

Grilled Padrón Peppers w ith Coarse Salt, 15 4

Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92

Pepper Salad w ith Sherry Vinegar and

new, 8 3

Ricotta Salata, 15 4

269

roasting, 26 4

Pan-Fried Blue Potatoes w ith Sage, 8 3

IN D EX

Noodles. See Pasta and noodles

M ozzarella, 15 4

Orecchiette w ith Kale, Chickpeas,

Potatoes, cont.

Waterm elon Radish Salad w ith Avocado

Parsnip and Potato Purée w ith Chives, 95

270

Perfect French Fries w ith Ketchup, 8 0

Vinaigrette, 10 4 Raspberries, 18 3

Pear, Hazelnut, and Dill Salad, 241 Pepper Salad w ith Sherry Vinegar and

Potato Salad w ith Mustard Vinaigrette, 8 3

golden, 187

Roasted Garlic– Olive Oil Mashed

Golden Raspberry Tart, 187

Persim m on and Endive Salad, 253

M ixed Berry Cobbler w ith Cinnam on, 187

Pom elos, Cilantro, and Cashew Salad, 210

Potatoes, 139

IN D EX

Orange and Red Onion Salad, 20 4

Ricotta Salata, 15 4

Roasted Potatoes with Herbs 83

Ratatouille, Sm oky Grilled, 16 3

Potato Salad w ith Mustard Vinaigrette, 8 3

Roasted Potatoes with Rosem ary and Bay, 83

Relishes

Radish, Fennel, and Parsley Salad, 10 4

Spanish Tortilla w ith Red Peppers, 8 0

Cranberry-Orange Relish, 193

Red and Green Butterm ilk Coleslaw, 5 4

Turnip, Apple, and Potato Soup, 101

Tangerine Relish w ith Shallots and M int, 207

Roasted Endive and Pear Salad, 7 2

Pound Cake, Toasted, w ith Spiced

Rhubarb, 255 , 256

Clem entines, 207 Prosciutto

Shaved Artichoke and Blue Cheese Salad, 176

Shaved Rhubarb Salad w ith Alm onds and

Shaved Fennel Salad with Citrus Dressing, 127

Celery, Parsley, and Prosciutto Salad, 124

Cheese, 25 8

English Peas w ith Prosciutto, 3 4 Pasta w ith Fava Beans, Green Garlic,

Tangy Rhubarb -Straw berry Pie, 25 8 Rice

and Prosciutto, 25

Shaved Rhubarb Salad w ith Alm onds and Cheese, 25 8 Snow Pea and M int Salad, 37

Celery and Rice Soup w ith Parsley, 124

Puddings

Rom aine Hearts w ith Caesar Dressing, 6 0

Pork Tenderloin w ith Rhubarb Chutney, 25 8

Cooked White Rice, 262

Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese, 2 33

Blueberry Sum m er Pudding, 19 0

Golden Beet and Blue Cheese Risotto, 89

Sweet-and-Sour Cucum ber Salad, 151

Corn Pudding w ith Chives, 17 3

Risotto w ith Fresh Corn and Basil Oil, 17 3

Tangerine, Fennel, and Olive Salad, 207

Key Lim e– Infused Tapioca Pudding, 201

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves w ith Sausage and

Watercress and Grapefruit Salad, 6 3

Puff pastry

Onion, 5 4

English Pea and Ricotta Tart, 3 4 Pear Tarte Tatin w ith Winter Spices, 241

Sugar Snap Pea Risotto, 37 Risotto

Rustic Tom ato and M ozzarella Tart, 14 8

Golden Beet and Blue Cheese Risotto, 89

Pum pkin, 115

Risotto w ith Fresh Corn and Basil Oil, 17 3

Bulgur Pilaf w ith Pum pkin and Raisins, 119 Pum pkin Purée w ith Toasted Pum pkin Seeds, 119

Sugar Snap Pea Risotto, 37

Watercress Salad w ith Pom egranate and Citrus, 24 4 Waterm elon, Feta, and M int Salad, 219 Waterm elon Radish Salad w ith Avocado Vinaigrette, 10 4 Yellow Squash and Farro Salad, 113

Rom esco Sauce, 262

Salm on, Grilled, w ith Spicy M elon Salsa, 216

Rutabagas, 97

Sandw iches

Roasted Pum pkin Soup with Sage Cream , 119

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables, 101

Apple and Artisan Cheddar Panini, 2 38 Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato Tartines, 16 0

Q

S

Quesadilla w ith Queso Fresco and Chiles, 157

Sage Cream , 262

Quinces, 243

Salads

Hom em ade Quince Paste w ith Manchego Cheese, 247 Quince Poached in Vanilla Syrup, 247 Quince Teacake w ith Sweet Syrup, 247

Sm oked Chicken, Grilled Pear, and Fontina

Arugula, Blue Cheese, and Grape Salad, 261 Arugula, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Salad, 6 6 Baby Arugula Salad w ith Berries and Gorgonzola, 187 Baby Spinach w ith Apples and Pecans, 69

R

Bitter Greens w ith Pecans and Balsam ic

Radicchio, 7 2 Bitter Greens w ith Pecans and Balsam ic Vinaigrette, 6 3 Grilled Radicchio w ith Anchoiade, 7 2

Vinaigrette, 6 3 Butter Lettuce w ith Mustard Vinaigrette, 6 0 Carrot Salad w ith Cum in, Coriander, and Cilantro, 92

Penne with Radicchio, Bacon, and Fontina, 72

Celery, Parsley, and Prosciutto Salad, 124

Persim m on and Endive Salad, 253

Cranberry Bean, Broccoli Rabe, and Bacon

Radishes, 102

Salad, 2 2

Sandw ich, 241 Tea Sandw iches w ith Trout, Radishes, and Blue Cheese, 10 4 Sauces Asian Dipping Sauce, 262 Rom esco Sauce, 262 Sausage Acorn Squash and Chorizo Tart, 116 Italian Sausage w ith Broccoli Rabe, 51 Jalapeños Stuffed w ith Sausage and Cheese, 157 Orecchiette w ith Kale, Chickpeas, and Sausage, 75 Rolled Eggplant w ith Sausage and M ozzarella, 16 3 Stuffed Cabbage Leaves w ith Sausage

Crudités w ith Green Goddess Dressing, 92

Cucum ber Salad w ith Yogurt-Dill Sauce, 151

French breakfast, 10 4

Fresh Straw berry and Spinach Salad, 18 4

Garlic Aioli w ith Garden Vegetables, 139

Frisée Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 63

Radishes w ith Butter and Sea Salt, 10 4

Grapefruit, Avocado, and Crab Salad, 210

Radish, Fennel, and Parsley Salad, 10 4

Grated Celery Root Salad, 9 8

Scones, Fresh Cranberry, 193

Tea Sandw iches w ith Trout, Radishes, and

M ixed Garden Bean Salad w ith Shallots, 31

Seeds, toasting, 26 4

M ixed Greens w ith Goat Cheese, 6 0

Sem ifreddo, Frozen Pom egranate, 24 4

Blue Cheese, 10 4

and Onion, 5 4 Scallops, Pan-Seared, w ith Sautéed Oranges, 20 4

Shortcakes

Stone Fruit Salad w ith Hazelnuts and

Straw berry Cornm eal Shortcake, 18 4

Spaghettini w ith Fresh Plum Tom ato

Blue Cheese, 2 33

Cornm eal Shortcake, 26 3

Sauce, 14 8

Straw berries, 182 . See also Fraises des bois

Stewed Green Beans w ith Tom atoes, 28

Fresh Straw berry and Spinach Salad, 18 4

Shrim p

Straw berry Cornm eal Shortcake, 18 4

Tortilla, Spanish, w ith Red Peppers, 8 0

Shrim p Sautéed in Garlic-Sherry Oil, 139

Straw berry– Crèm e Fraîche Ice Cream , 18 4

Tortillas

Tangy Rhubarb -Straw berry Pie, 25 8

Ceviche w ith Lim e and Herbs, 201

Sum m er Rolls, Avocado and Shrim p, 16 0

Sautéed Snapper Fillets w ith Caram elized

Sum m er Waterm elon Granita, 219

Lem ons, 19 8

Sweet potatoes, 8 4

M int-Infused Grapefruit Sorbet, 210

Beef and Sweet Potato Stir-Fry, 8 6

Tart Cranberry Sorbet, 193

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables, 101 and Pecans, 8 6

Soups

Sw iss chard, 71

T

Cream y Mushroom Soup w ith Sherry, 16 8

Tangerines, 20 3

Garlic Soup, 139

Tangerine, Fennel, and Olive Salad, 207

Pea Soup with Crèm e Fraîche and Chives, 34

Tangerine Relish w ith Shallots and M int, 207

Roasted Beet Soup w ith Feta and Dill, 89

Tapenade, 262

Roasted Pum pkin Soup with Sage Cream , 119

Tapioca Pudding, Key Lim e– Infused, 201

Turnip, Apple, and Potato Soup, 101

Tartines, Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato, 16 0 Acorn Squash and Chorizo Tart, 116 English Pea and Ricotta Tart, 3 4

Baked Eggs w ith Spinach and Cream , 69

Golden Raspberry Tart, 187

Fresh Straw berry and Spinach Salad, 18 4

Pear Tarte Tatin w ith Winter Spices, 241

Sautéed Spinach w ith Feta and

Pluot Galette, 2 24

and Blue Cheese, 10 4 Tem pura String Beans w ith Aioli, 28 Tian, Baked Zucchini and Tom ato, 110 Avocado, Bacon, and Tom ato Tartines, 16 0

Yellow Squash and Farro Salad, 113

Baked Zucchini and Tom ato Tian, 110

Yellow Squash w ith Tom ato Vinaigrette, 113

Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham and Pasta, 22

Zucchini Carpaccio w ith Cheese and

Chunky Tom ato Conserve, 14 8

Sour Cream , 110

Focaccia w ith Grapes and Walnuts, 261 Green Beans w ith Toasted Walnuts, 28 Persim m on and Endive Salad, 253 Pork Tenderloin w ith Rhubarb Chutney, 25 8 Roasted Endive and Pear Salad, 7 2 toasting, 26 4 Watercress Bitter Greens w ith Pecans and Balsam ic Vinaigrette, 6 3 Green Goddess Dressing, 262 Watercress and Grapefruit Salad, 6 3 Watercress Salad w ith Pom egranate and Citrus, 24 4 Waterm elon, 215 Grilled Salm on w ith Spicy M elon Salsa, 216 Sum m er Waterm elon Granita, 219

Tom atoes, 14 6

Sm oky Grilled Ratatouille, 16 3

Squash, w inter, 107, 114, 116 , 119

Arugula, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Salad, 6 6

Tea Sandw iches w ith Trout, Radishes,

Grilled Squash Tossed in Herb and Garlic

Pine Nuts, 110

Walnuts

Rustic Tom ato and M ozzarella Tart, 14 8

Caram elized Squash, 113

Zucchini-Feta Pancakes Topped w ith

seasonal, 12–13

Tarts

Baby Spinach w ith Apples and Pecans, 69

Marinade, 113

blanching, 26 4

W

Cream of Cauliflower Soup, 45

Baked Zucchini and Tom ato Tian, 110

Vegetables. See also individual vegetables

and Alm onds, 6 6

Chilled Spicy Cucum ber Gazpacho, 151

Squash, sum m er, 107, 10 8 – 9, 113

V

Swordfish w ith Arugula, Currants,

Celery and Rice Soup w ith Parsley, 124

Pine Nuts, 69

Turnip, Apple, and Potato Soup, 101 Turnovers, Crisp Apricot, 2 24

Sw iss Chard, Onion, and Cheese Frittata, 75

Butternut Squash Soup w ith Chipotle, 116

Spinach, 65

Maple-Glazed Roasted Root Vegetables, 101

Mashed Sweet Potatoes w ith Brow n Sugar

Soufflé, Savory Leek and Gruyère, 142

Spanish Tortilla w ith Red Peppers, 8 0

Baby Turnips and Turnip Greens, 101

and Sage, 8 6

Lem on Sorbet w ith Fresh Basil, 19 8

Cannellini Bean Soup with Ham and Pasta, 22

Blue Cheese, and, 10 4 Turnips, 97

Baked Sweet Potatoes w ith Brow n Butter

Sorbet

Broccoli and Cheddar Soup, 42

Quesadilla with Queso Fresco and Chiles, 157 Trout, Tea Sandw iches w ith Radishes,

Grilled Green Onions and Tom atoes, 142

Waterm elon, Feta, and M int Salad, 219 Waterm elon Wedges with Hot Pepper Salt, 219 White Chocolate and Lim e M ousse, 201 Wild Rice and Mushroom Pilaf, 16 8

heirloom , 14 8

Y

Heirloom Tom atoes w ith Shallot

Yogurt Cucum ber Salad w ith Yogurt-Dill Sauce, 151

Vinaigrette, 14 8

Acorn Squash and Chorizo Tart, 116

Piperade w ith M ixed Bell Peppers, 15 4

Green Goddess Dressing, 262

Butternut Squash Soup w ith Chipotle, 116

Rolled Eggplant w ith Sausage and

Warm Plum s w ith Honey and Greek

Roasted Squash Purée w ith Ginger, 116 Squash w ith Maple Butter, 116 Squash blossom s, 110 Fried Squash Blossom s w ith Ricotta, 110

Yogurt, 2 33

M ozzarella, 16 3 Rom esco Sauce, 262 Rustic Tom ato and M ozzarella Tart, 14 8

Z

Sm oky Grilled Ratatouille, 16 3

Zucchini. See Squash, sum m er

IN D EX

Avocado and Shrim p Sum m er Rolls, 16 0 Snapper

271

Yellow Squash w ith Tom ato Vinaigrette, 113

415 Jackson Street, Suite 20 0 , San Francisco, CA 9 4111 Telephone: 415 291 010 0 Fax: 415 291 8 8 41 w w w.weldonowen.com

WILLIAM S-SONOM A, INC. Founder and Vice-Chairm an Chuck William s

COOKING FROM THE FARM ERS’ M ARKET Conceived and produced by Weldon Owen Inc. In collaboration w ith William s-Sonom a, Inc.

WELDON OWEN INC.

325 0 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, CA 9 410 9

CEO and President Terry Newell Senior VP, International Sales Stuart Laurence VP, Sales and New Business Developm ent Am y Kaneko Director of Finance Mark Perrigo

A WELDON OWEN PRODUCTION Copyright © 2010 Weldon Owen Inc. and William s-Sonom a, Inc. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form .

VP and Publisher Hannah Rahill Executive Editor Jennifer Newens Editor Donita Boles Associate Creative Director Em m a Boys Designer Lauren Charles Production Director Chris Hem esath Production Manager Michelle Duggan

Color separations by Em bassy Graphics Printed and bound in China by Toppan Leefung Printing Lim ited First printed in 2010 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data is available.

Color Manager Teri Bell ISBN-13 : 978 -1-74 0 89 -979 -6

Group Publisher, Bonnier Publishing Group John Owen

ISBN-10 : 1-74 0 89 -979 -2

Photographer Maren Caruso Food St ylist Robyn Valarik Prop St ylist Christine Wolheim

ACKNOWLEDGM ENTS Weldon Owen w ishes to thank Ken Della Penta, Becky Duffett, Judith Dunham , Am anda Haas, Kitchenette, Jeff Larsen, Lesli Neilson, Fanny Pan, Christina Richards, Thy Tran, Stacy Ventura, Carri Wilkinson, Sharron Wood, and Victoria Woollard for their generous support in producing this book. A portion of this content was adapted from original recipes by Melanie Barnard, Georgeanne Brennan, Lane Crow ther, Heidi Haughy Cusick, Beth Dooley, Janet Fletcher, Jean Galton, Joyce Goldstein, Barbara Grunes, Dana Jacobi, Susan Manlin Katzm an, Denis Kelly, Kristine Kidd, Elinor Klivans, Norm an Kolpas, Charles Pierce, Michele Scicolone, Coleen & Bob Sim m ons, Marie Sim m ons, M olly Stevens, and Joanne Weir.

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS All photographs by Maren Caruso except: Noel Barnhurst, pages 115, 12 3; Bill Bettencourt, pages 14 6 , 242; Getty Im ages: Rob Casey, pages 178 –179 ; Getty Im ages: Gene Colem an, pages 16 –17; Ben Dearnley, pages 33, 9 0 , 159, 2 28 , 2 29 ; Dan Goldberg, pages 120 , 145, 153, 203, 2 2 3, 255 ; Jean-Blaise Hall, pages 56 , 13 4, 135, 2 20 ; Ray Kachatorian, pages 19, 27, 38 – 4 0 , 4 6 , 52, 53, 6 4, 78 , 91, 97, 10 6 , 10 8 , 10 9, 12 2, 14 4, 147, 165, 170 –171, 18 0 , 181, 18 3, 18 8 , 19 4, 19 6 , 2 3 4, 2 36 , 2 37, 25 4 ; Kana Okada, pages 21, 26 , 58 , 8 4, 121, 141, 152, 158 , 16 4, 215 ; Getty Im ages, Lew Robertson, page 213; France Ruffenach, page 182; Kate Sears, pages 20 , 47, 65, 85, 132, 14 0 , 16 6 –16 7, 195 ; Petrina Tinslay, pages 18 , 41, 57, 71, 76 , 7 7, 79, 102–103, 107, 128 -129, 212, 2 35, 24 8 , 256 , 257; Tucker + Hossler, pages 32, 59, 70 , 9 6 , 189, 197, 202, 20 8 -20 9, 2 21; Francesca Yorke: pages 174 –175