Canary Islands [1 ed.] 0864425228

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bne,Pimet b("ヒ Provide independe就 ce.Accred忙 Loneけ P:and wtters do not=cept discounts or paymentin Ⅸ change`or posH“ coverage. “ “ Las guFas de bneレ

P:met∞ 面enen in`orm“ i6ny∞nseio desint聰 縫dos.Sus

autores no aceptan ret

lS3N O‐ 86442‐ 522‐ 8

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buciones ni descuentos a cambio de comentarios pos“

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,1730864'14252251'

lst Edition

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vos.

b遜:7い V

canary lslands Damlen Sirnonls

canary is:ands lst edition

Published by Lo口 ely P18net PubICatiOnS

Head ofnce: PO Box 617,HawthOrn,Vic 3122,Australia Branches: 150 Linden street,oakland,CA 94607,USA loa spring Placc,LOndon NW5 3BH,Ⅸ 71 bis rue du Cardinal Leinoinc,75005 Paris,France

Printed by cOlorcraft Ltd,Hong Kong

Photographs by I)arnien Sinlonis

Front cOver:Windmill,Lan,“ rotc(Ansclm Spring,The lmage Balま

)

Pub:ished August 1998

Aithough the authorS and pubiisher have tned to make the infolrnation as accurate as possible,they accept no responsibility for any loSS,iniury or inconVenience sustainedl by any penson using this b00k.

Nttional Library ofAustrana Cata10guing in PubliCation Data Sin10niS,I)aFnien.

CanaV Isiands. lst cd.

Includes index.

ISBN 0 86442 522 8. 1.canttty lsiands― Guidcbooks.1.Title.

914.490483

text&rnaps◎ ILOnely Planet 1998 phobs O ph。 Ogaphers as indicmed 1998

A‖

Jlも rescrved.No pan ofttis publication may be reproducCd,stored in a retrieval system or

transmited in any form by any means,clectronic,mechanical,photoCOpyin3 recording or otherwise, cxccpt b

efextracts fbr the purpOSC Of reVieW,WithOut the Writen penniSSiOn Ofthe publiSher and

copyriJlt OWneL

DalT‖ en

Sirnonis

Damien is a London‐ bぉ ed jOumalist.Wi

a degrcc in lan‐

guages and several years'newspaper experiencc on,anlong 4g′ ,he lenAustralia in 1989. srrα ′ ′ α″and 7乃 ′ノ others,71カ ′Иン In beNccn stints on sevcral London papcrs, including r%θ ′ ″ れ hC haS 虜α′,ル d響′″ル″rand ttθ Dα ′ G″ α″ タ セ′

`ル alsO、 vOrkcd and travellcd widcly in iEuropc,tlle lVriddic East 『 vorked ica.In addition to this book he has also、 and North A■・

aα ″ &Sガ α on Lonely Planet's Jο ″ ,Eg夕 r&″ aS″ ″ ″ ″and′ ′ αケ guideb00kS,and iS ″ И!ル たα,こ,α ブ ル ′ οοεο,Nο ″ ′′ ο″αguide. wOrking `ο on a」 ,α ぁ ε ,

From the Author

Rowicy、 vho also lald outthe book and dc‐

As al、 vays,behind the fbce in the very at―

signed the colour pages.

tractivc l)hoto on this pagc lies an ocean of

drew the illustrations,Mick Weldon dreW

peoplc who, in onc way or another, have

the canoons and the covcr was designed by Margie Jung,who also drew the back― cover

helped in the construction ofthis guide.

Kcith HalTis of Books on Spain,in the

・ rudi Canavan I｀

map. Special thanks to colnputer boffin

UK,was kind cnough to help out with

Andrew Tudor for his trusty tcmplatcs,and

problcins of bibliography.

to Michelle 13ennct for additional research.

I Owe a large debt of thanks to Jolln Ioble and Susan Forsyth, rny colleagues on ILonely Pianet's guide to Spain,whose

Warning&Request ´

lヽ

work has helped srnooth iny path in the preparation of the Facts for the Visitor chaptcr. staffat various tourist ofnccs,butin par_ ticular at the()icina dc´ rurislno de santa Cruz de・ Tenerife,have bccn rllost helpftl.

rhings changc_prices go up, schcdules

change,good places go bad and bad places go bankrupt― nothing stays the salne.So, ifyou 16nd things better or worsc,recently opened or iong since closed,plcasc tell us and hclp nlake tllc ncxt edition cven inorc accuratc 2はld usenュ 1.

We valuc all ofthe feedback we receive

The guys at Lonely Planet's iLondon Ofice,and especially Sara・ andersAngie vol‐ in ma■ Bjeloglicお rtheir exPertise`orke canic,are worth thcir weight in pints.

fl・

orn travellers.Julic｀ Yloung coordinates a

snlall tearn that reads tand ackno、 vledges

cvcry letter, postcard and email, and

Michё lc Nayman has bccn a great'iend and sOurce Of suppOn through somc intcr‐

ensurcs that every inorscl of infbrnlation

csting inornents.

cditors and publishers.

In Santa Crur de T:enerife a SpCCial thanks to lsabel Alvarcz,who sight unseen rolled out the red carl)et sirnply because

inds its way to thc appropriate authors,

EveryOne who￢Titcs

to us、 41l ind their

narne in the next edition ofthe appropriate guide and、 vill also receive a llee subscrip‐

Cheung, Ma10r lヽ Ieighbour and Bethune

tion to our quarterly newsie■ er, P′ α″θ′ 7レ ′ た。T｀ he very best contributions will be re― warded with a ficc Lonely Planet guidc. Exccrpts■ om your corespondence may appcar in new editions ofthis guidc;in our newslemcr,P″ ″θノ￨カ ル;or in updttes on our Web site― so please let us know ifyou don't、 vant your leter published or your

Carmichael.The maps were drawn by Hclen

name acknowledged.

her sister in lし

ondon,Cal■ nen,ordered her

to do so! Fro口 nthe

Pub:isher

This bOok was cdited in Lonely Planet's MelbOurne ofice by Ro、 van McKinnon, with much help l[onl Sarah Mathers,Ada

Contenl腱 3 lNTRODuCT10N

11

FACTS ABOuT THEISLANDS...… 《eography¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨22 Gcoiogy¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ .¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.… 23 Climate… ………¨……………………25 Ecology&Environinent… ¨¨26 [〕

.....… ...........… .......…

……...¨ ..¨ .¨ ¨¨..… .....¨ .......¨ ¨¨…13

Flora`セ Fauna¨ ¨¨.… …….¨ ¨.… … 28

overnnicnt&Politics¨ ¨¨¨¨31 Economy¨ ……………………¨……33 Population&Peoplc… ……¨…34 (〕

FACTS FOR THE VISITOR...… ........."¨ ...."....¨ ..............¨ ４ ４ .

........…

…................¨ ¨......… …44

I)angers&Annく )yanccs¨ ¨¨.¨ 71 Legal Matters¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨_¨ "73

Weights&Meぉ

Public Hdidays&Spccial

Electrici,… …………………………63

・1loilcts¨ ¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ `1 63 Health¨ ¨.… …….¨ ¨¨¨¨.… ……….¨ ¨63

９ ５

Laundry

urcs¨ ………¨ 63

６ ５

WViornen′ 「 ravellers¨

０ ６ ０ ６ ︲ ６ ︲ ６

′¨……¨¨¨………¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨ ヽ

Ans¨ ¨¨……¨¨¨……¨¨…¨¨¨¨…34 Society&Conduct… …………39

Photography&Ⅵ deo… ………61 Time… ………………¨……………62

２ ５

1‐

２ ５

Radio¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨

０ ５

incs…

８ ４

Newspapcrs&Mag`フ

７ ４

Suggested ltineraries¨ ¨¨¨¨ Towist ofnccs… ¨……………… Visas&Documcnts… ………… Embassies… ……………………… Custol■ s¨ ……¨…¨¨.… …… …… Money¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨ Post&Communications… … Books¨ ¨¨.¨ .¨ ¨¨.¨ "… …………¨ Internet Resources""..¨ ¨¨¨

５ ４

Planning

Educaion… …………………………34

¨_¨ ¨.¨ ._¨ 69

Gay&Lesbian Travene“ ……69 Disabled T'ravellers.¨ ¨¨ ¨¨"70 Senior l｀ ravellers¨ ¨ _¨ ___¨ ¨ ¨"70

Travel with Children… ………70 1()rganisations.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨ Use■ ュ 71

Business Hours… …¨……………73

Events_

74 75 Language Courses.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨78 WVlork… …… 78 Accornrnodation_.¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨79 Food¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨…….¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.81 1)rinks¨ ¨ ¨¨¨………….¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨88 Entcrtalnment .¨ 90 Spectator SporL¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨91 Activities

GETTING THERE&AWAY

96 ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨……107

Air.

Sea.¨

Land

1)eparture Tlaxes¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨108

0rganised・ rburs¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨. 108 Warning.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨……109

GETrlNG AROUND 110 Air Bus… ……………………… …………110 Car&Motorcyclc… ……………111

110 Ta

Central Ci“ uit¨ ……… ¨¨¨133

Boat …………113 Local Transpon¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨115 (:)rganiscd・ 「 ours… ……………………116

Hitching

ISLA DE GRAN CANARIA.....¨ Las Paimas de Cran Canaria… ……¨¨……… ¨¨…119 AFound the isiand.. ¨._133

……¨

Bicyclc¨

................"...¨ .¨ ..¨ .¨

….................¨

The North¨ ¨_… ¨¨¨……………136 Playa del lng16s& Maspalornas… ….¨ ………… ………■39

...¨ ..¨

¨¨¨..¨ ¨.....¨ 117

Around iPlaya del lngl`s& Maspalornas. ..¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨.¨ 143

iSLA DE FUERTEVENTURA..............................................…

..........................¨

Puerto del Rosario...........149

The Centre........................158

Around Pijam… …………

The North..........................152

Betancuria… ………………………158 Around Betancuria . …¨¨159 Antigua¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨159 Around Antigua¨ ¨¨_¨ .¨ ¨¨_■ 59 uine」 e.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨■60 P“ am… …………… ………………160

Caleta de Fuste…

Road to La Oliva… …… … …152 La Oliva¨ ……… ………………152 Co,ale」 o… ……………… …………153 1sia dc Lobos¨ ¨…………… ……157 E!Cotillo… ………………… …¨¨157

1｀

......"..146

…………… .

160 160

161 Around Caleta de Fuste Gran Tarttal&South‐ East Bcachcs… ……………………… …161 Peninsuia de Jandia........161 La Parcd.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨_161

Costa Calma¨ ……….¨ …………162

Morro Jable_¨ ¨¨¨¨

Playa de iBarlovento de

Piaya de Sotavento de

Around Moro Jable

Jandia.¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨■65

Arrecife.............................168

The Nonlh‐ 1カiest¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨■78

Arotnd A“ eciた .… ………………174 The No“ h.................… …....176

The South.........................179

The East Coast to Playa Blanca¨ ¨¨.¨ _¨ ..¨ .¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨.… 181

162

Jandia

iSLA DE LANZAROTE

166

Malpais de la(〕 orona¨ ¨¨¨¨176

The Minor Canaries… ………177

Parquc Nacional de Timanね ya… …¨…………………179 1nland&Ⅵ rest Coast… ………180

iSLA DE TENERIFE.............................................................¨

Santa Crt:z de Tenerilo....188 Around the 131and............196

La Laguna¨

.¨

……….… …………196

Thc No■h‐ East… ……¨………199 PuertO de la Cn12… ...… ….… …200

Around iPucito dc ia Cruz… 205 The North-lMest… ………………207

Parquc Nacional dc:as ¨¨¨…208 (〕 aiadas del.Tleide¨ .¨ ¨ Theヽ Vest Coast¨ ....¨ ¨…………210

......................................185

Los Cristianos&Playa de las An16ricas¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨…211 Around Los Cristianos… ……216 The East 17

iSLA DE LA PALMA.… …¨¨¨"".… ………….¨ .....¨ "¨ .… ….""¨ .¨ .".¨ ¨……….… ……..¨ .¨ ....… ….219 Santa CIru2 de ia lPalma...222

Around Santa Cr¨ 2 de la Palma… .… ……………¨…………227

iSLA DE LA 00MERA…

.¨

239

..........…

Around the:siand............245

ISLA DE EL HIERRO..¨

..¨

Around Valverde¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨260 Around the isiand............260

No■ heni Circuit...… …………261

Parque Nacional de Garaり onay.¨ … …………………….… 245 Northem La Gomera… ………247

Maps¨ ¨

ヽ4estern La Gomera…

.… ……250 SoutheHI La Gomera… ………253

255

.

.........¨ ...¨ .................… ...¨ ....¨ ..¨ ..¨ ..¨ .¨ .¨

¨..¨ ¨.¨ ...¨ ..¨ ......¨ ...… ......................… ..............… .268

..…

South to La Restinga… ………261 El Golfo… ……………… Hoya del Morcino… ¨¨¨……261 Sabinosa&,Around¨ ,6, La Dehesa. EI Pinar La Restyinga.… …………………262

GLOSSARY.........… ..........… ............… ......… ...¨ .¨

h.¨ ………… ……….¨ .¨ 230

The Centrc....¨ .… ………….¨ …232 Thc South....¨ ..¨ ¨ ¨¨.¨ .¨ ..¨ ¨234

¨..… .¨ ....¨ ..¨ .¨ ........¨ ¨.¨ ..¨ .¨ .¨ ..… …....¨ ...… ….......… ....…

Valverdo............................257

:NDEX.......¨

The Nb“

¨………¨………""¨ "¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨¨………………¨………¨……¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨237

san lsebastian de ia Comera...............¨

Around the isiand............227 Parque Nacional dc la Caldera de llabu cntc.¨ ¨.¨ .227

Text.¨

.¨

¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨268

.264

..… .. ..266

................¨

.

..268

Boxed Asides

Dogs&Purp:e Prose ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨¨¨14 ¨¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨20 ..¨

A Litt:e Libert6 in Tlenenfe

.¨

.¨

.¨

A Bnef&Btter Exiie… ………………¨………21 ヽ 10!canic(1)ngins プ

¨24 ¨¨.… …..¨ ..........¨ ¨¨¨¨29 NotJud a Prew FЮ nd… ……………¨¨……30 Nice Do9, Good Dog …………….… ….… ……31 Don't Mumble,Cive a Whistle.… …………41

The Dragon Tree

.¨

Nutrition

Everyday Hea!th

¨"¨ ¨¨...

M倒 o Have a Cigar… ¨¨¨.¨ …

lt's a Cay Old Life ¨¨¨.¨ .¨ ¨..¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨.¨ ¨91 The Canaries'Weirdヽ Vond of Spo■ s..… 92 ¨¨¨97 Fa", ..¨ ¨ 98 Air Travel )orn to be a Republican ……..¨ .¨ .....123 日 ¨....¨ 128 P:ain ¨…170 The Life& of(〕 6sar Manrique ¨¨ Father of Cestalt… …………………………….188 The Luck ofthe:rish ¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨I.193 Going Bananas..¨ .… ………….¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨.¨ ¨…204 Was He TOssed O■ ?¨ ¨¨¨..¨ ¨……….¨ ¨¨.217 Stary Stanγ Nlght.._¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨…229 Murder&Revenge in La GomeFa… ……241 When Columbus Dropped By… …………244 .263 Space:nvaders

Map Legend AREA FEATURES

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HOROGRAPH:C FEATURES

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introductiOn

`Oh,surely yOu'rc nOt going to thc Canary lsiands!'travel snobs cxclairn in h011・ 0■

described as a cOntinent in rniniaturc, its countryside an ever_changing pastiche:sub― tropical and■)itile tO the no■ lh,InOre arid and renliniscent Of the dcse in the south. ′ Ilenerifё is still rnOre interesting.1｀ 1lc■ ree

Sun

and fi】 nh。 liday package destination par ex― Cellencc,the Canaries are seen by lnany as

the last winter rclヽ lge OfBritish iager‐ louts,

Gerinan hippies and pensioners,Om across

sntall westem islands,rnOuntainous,green and do● ed with occasional brief strands of

nonhern Europe. ´

rlo write off the isiands in this cavalier

and uninforincd fashion,hOwcveち

black sand, prcscnt a startling cOntrast to

the desertscapes and sparkling white

is to dO

them,and yOurSelf,a gred iniuStiCe.The

beaChes of their easterninost cOunte,panls,

Canary lslands,a Spanish`rchipelag。 little more than looknl fronl the coast ofsaharan A■・ica,are in fhct a fascinating and nlulti‐

Lanzarote and Fuertevcntura.A rich and olRen bizarre indigenOus nora thrives right across this chain Of v。

faceted destination ft)r travcllers.IIぅ 。u don,t

havc tO stray too far lヤ onl thc main beach reS01■ S

lcarlic isiands.

IE,xploring thc isiands,the back roads and

villages bring yOu in touch with a uniquc

to discover an absOrbing, ■lulti‐

side of Spanish culture, renecting an

ねceted culmrc. The isiand ofGran Canaria alone is onen

unusual mix Ofin■ uences far removed,om the inainland.

▲

A

ArLA NTIC OCF4.N

◎ `ゝ

The CanaV Islands

Lla de 181a:置

b R面腱

≒ 服

L、

:m餃 “ 習 =譜

1■ a

■■ “"ヒ

de

Tenediさ

,ハ ,お la dl Lob● ●

前 A cn露 ・ ,/Osiヽ ・ 0● TENER:FE

プ91圏 ir

LAS PALMASOE 17● RAN CttNAmA

F‐ __、 云

/'

-1411鍮 '‐

^ ■OV● ´

ml)

^■ : _OAr""●

bla d●

｀ ｀ヽ ヽriladela

…

C"n Cam=ia

181a de

./

m me"。

/ ノ ′ ′

ATLA NTIC OCFAN

11

饉

/

//

b

121n■ oduction

Amid the ■lolting pot of Andalucian,

Of a betterlit o Latin America,so in later

IBIerber, P。 ltuguese,

years South American innucnces have

even B

wal自 :ed

ltalian, French and tish migation,los Gualches,the

back across the Atlantic, best

native isianders displaced by the Spani轟

sanllpled in the cuisine and nlusic.

conquest in tllo 15th century,also lelR:their

This fhscinating mix can be easily and relatively cheaply expb“ d― just p■ aside your preconceptions`uld go.

mark. Andjust as Canalos migrated in seach

Facts about the isiands

HiSTORY

thcir story_telling,tllere is no concrete evi‐

′ he origins Of thc Canary lsiands and its earliest inhabitants are enve10ped in thick

dence that either the lPhoenicians Or(〕 reeks ever landed in the(Canaries. It is entirely

mists of myth and unccttainty.The isiands

possible, hOwever, that early reconnais_

I・

thernSelVeS are eStirnated to bc 30 1nllll10n

Sance ofthe North A6,ican Atlantic coast by

ycars old,relatively young by the planet's

the PhOenicians and thcir successOrs, the く E'alllhaginians,took in at lcast a pcck at the CastcrnrnOst isiands Of thc archipelago.

standards. ´ 「 he existence ofthe isiands was kno、 vn, Or l)OStulttCd,in anCiCnt times.PI江 o(428‐

Soine historians believe a PhOenician expc_ ditiOn landed in the iSiands in tl■ e 12th

348 BC), in his dialogues 77″ α

and (3'″ ′ ノ ′ αs, spokc of Atlantis, a cOntinent`sde― stroyed and sunk decp into the ocean in。 。r in a grcat cataclysnl which left only the peaks Of its highest rllountains abovc the wacr whethcr Pl■ 。 bclieved in the lost

Century BC, and that the Carthaginian

`ι

HannO turnCd up there in 470 BC.

The eXpanding Roman empire dcfeated Ca

contincnt's existencc Or had n10re allegori‐

cal

intcntions

remains

a

nlatter

hagC in thC Third Punic Warin 146 BC,

but thc Romans appcar nOt to havc becn overly kccn tO invcstigatc the fabled is‐

Of

lands.Indeed,Only shOrtly an‐ er the bilth of ChriSt did the Ro■lans rcceive vaguely reli‐

COnjecture. In the centuries since PlatO's death,thOse cOnvinced Of the cxistence Of AtlantiS haVe rnaintained that Macronesia

able rep。 ■s On thenl,penned by Pliny the

Elder(23‐ 79 AD)■ om accOunts of an ex_ peditiOn Carried out around 40BC by Juba II,a Clicnt king in Roman North Aiica.In 150 AD,Ptolemy fhirly accurately locatcd

(ie the Canary ISiands,the Azores,Cape Vede and Madeira),are thc visible remains ofthe 10st cOntinent.

Legend alSO haS it that onc of the 12

thc isiands'positiOn、 vith a littlc dead rcck_ oning, tracing an inlaginary rneridian line

1abOurS Of HCrCulCS(HeraCleS to thc Greeks)was to go to the end Ofthe wOrld

rnarking the end of the known wOrld

and bring back g。 lden apples guarded by the lHeSperideS(`daughters of evening'),

through El HierrO.

The Guanches

OfnSpring Of HeSperis and Atlas,the latter a

・

nlythical Mauritanian king whO gave his

r・

hat the canary lsiands wcre inhabitcd

namc to the AtlantiC OCean and the Atlas

belore thc birth OfChrist is undisputcd.But

n10untain rangcs in MoroccO. I― lerculcs

by whOm?Carbon‐ dating Of the spa・ se ar‐ chac。 10gical■ nds has pushed back the

supposcdly had tO gO beyond the Pillars Of

HerCuleS(the mOdem Stttit of Gibral●

knOWn date OfSettlemcntto around 200 BC,

r),

ヽ VhiCh CamC tO be knoWn as the(3arden Of the Hesperides, to reach the paradisical home Of these nlaidcns. Hcrculcs carried out his task and“ tumed■ om what many

although earlier se■ lelment is cOnceivable.

For a 10ng time, lcarned observcrs inain‐ tained that the isiands werc irst inhabited by Cro‐ MagnOn man,the Neolithic prede‐

latcr thOught could Only have been the (1)analiy lsiands― abOutthe only place tO■

cessor of ffiο

″,ο salF'′ θ″s.Such cOnclusiOns

havc cmerged florn thc conlparisOn of

t

thc ancients'description. And slo the islands gained a reputation,

ancient skulls Of indigenOus inhabitants with Cro― Magnon remains discovered in the MeditelTanean.

passed dOwn fiOm one classical writer tO thc next,as a(3arden ofEden.Holller iden‐

Historians tcnd tO wrinklc their nOses up

tined the isiands as Elysiunl,a place where thC righteOuS Spent their anerline. For all

at the idea no、 v, although the evidcncc cither 、 vay is so flil■ sy that it cannot be 13

14 Facts about the lsiands-llistory

Dogs&Purple Prose To the ancient Greeks,the fabled isiandS

beyond the lPil!ars of Hercules were knOwn as the Hesperides or Atiantes, after the daughters of Atias supposedly visited by Hercules. Long thought to be abundant in every possible kind of fruit, the islands were also often referred to as

the Garden of HeSpendes. Elysium,the ield of perect peace where the ancient

Greeks Supposed the good and great spent the aftedife,has also been assOCi‐

Canaries took their name from the islands

ated by some writers with the CananeS. mtherthan the other wav aЮ und The Rornans, whO apparent:y never set ・ 威unatae (Fortunate !sleS). The f。 。 t on the isiands, new them as the lnsulae F。 spaniards,vvhen they set abOut cOnquering them in the 15th century,also tended in‐ itia‖ y tO refertO thern as the islas AfortunadaS. Juba l!,the North African king who gave lPliny the Elder an aCCOunt ofthe lsiandS, referred to them as the:nsulae Purpunae(Purp!e:SleS),beCauSe ofthe purpie dyeS eX― tracted frOnl the Orchi::ichen on Fueneventura and Lanzarote.Juba's report can't have been a!l iction,as he atleast gotthe nurnber Ofislands right― seven.The Rornans gave Owing namesi Canaria(Gran Canaria):Nivaria(椰 enerife),Capraria(Lan‐ them the f。 ‖

zarOte),Planaria(Fuerteventura),Junonia Mayor(La Pa:ma),Junonia Minor(La GOmera)and P:uvia‖ a(EI Hierro). VVhen the lEuropeans began to occupy the:Slands in earneSt,they found the loca:s had their own names forthe islands,sOme Ofthem st‖ l preserved:Achinech(Tenerife): Tamaran(Gran Canaria):T口 erOrgatra(Lanzarote);Maxorata(Fuetteventura):Bena‐

hoare(La Palma):Gomera(La Gomera)and Her。

(EI Hierro).

vvhy Canaria'(3)ne irnprObableね !e talks Of an adventuresorne Latin couple,C:ranus and crana, who went。「 in search Of a chalienge, bunnped into what is now Gran canaria and liked it so much they stayed.They dubbed the island Cranaria,which was later sirnplined tO canaria.

AnothertheOry SuggeStS the name Came frOm the Latin canene(tO Sing)in reference to canaries,thOught by sOnne tO be native to the is!ands.Most ornithOlogists claim the bird took the name fronl the is:andS,ratherthan the Other way arOund

c)thers who prefer dOgs tO birds say the name canne from the Latin word for dog

″hatthey C° nSidered ″aS hOmet。 ｀ (Canυ S),beCauSe Juba'S eXpeditiOn fOund the iSland｀ unusually large dogs.(E)n the other hand,there was a school ofthoughtthatthe natives of the island、 ″ere dog‐ eaters! ltis probable that none ofthese fancifu:solutions to the riddle iS eVen renlotely correct

Anothertheo「 y clairns thatthe people of Canaria,whO pOssibly arrived severa!hundred years before christ,were in fact Berbers ofthe canariitribe living in Morocco.The tribal narne was sirnply applied to the island and later accepted by IPliny.Canaria becarne `great,(gran),aCCOrding tO SOme ChrOniC!eS,afteritS peOple put up a tOugh nght against es Equa‖ y unclearis at precise:y what pointthe islands canle ,9υ isfadο コ the spanish cο ′ tO be knOwn cO‖ ectively as Las lsias Canarias,although probably this came With the compietion ofthe spanish cOnquest Ofthe is:ands atthe end ofthe 15th century.

FaCtS abOut the ISIandS-1‐ listory 15

COnlplctcly ruled out.ItthrOws the d00rs Of

SipeCulatiOn Wide OpCn,Sincc Cro‐ MagnOn nlan Canle OntO the SCene aS IOng as 40,000 years ago. A diSCOnCerting CluC iS prOVided by IEu‐ ropean descriptions oflocals in the、 vake Of COnqueSt in thc 15th century.′ hey lound,

「 mainly On ・rcnerifc, tall and powerfully

built pcOple, bluc eyed and with long fair hair dOwn to their waists.These lanky blond

iSianderS Were knOWn as Guanches(彙 om `man',and εみ′Or ασみブ ″ο力,ineaning

g″ α″, `、

″hitc inOuntain'in reference tO the snow

Capped′ Ileide V。 lCanO).

ThC′ rencrifc Guanches fascinatcd the Europcans(and ultimatcly put up thc most

tenaCiOuS reSiStanCe tO them),but their origin is an open question.Ifthey wcre not

MagnOn inan, where did they comc fiom? SOme suggest they deSCendantS of iCro‐

Were Celtic immigrants iOm mainland lberia, and even relatcd tO the Basques. Morc fancifully,itis tempting tO scc a drop

of Nordic b100d in thc Guanches _ did Norsc raiding ipartics iand here in the 8tll or

9th centuries?

Whatever the cxplanation, the tcrrn uanche came to be uscd Of alithe Canary lsiands'indigenOus people,although nOt all (:〕

Of thenl fit the descriptiOn. In the castern isiands in iparticular,the Original illhabitants

wcre almost cenainly Berbcr migrants■ 。m nearby Saharan A■ ica.Placc naines and the handfu1 0fwOrds ofthe Canalγ lsiands ian― guagCS(Or dialCCtS)that have corne dOwn tO uS bCar a Striking reSenlblance to 13erber tribal languages.It has alsO bcen■ Otcd that

the occasional case Of bluc eyes and b10ndiSh hair OCCurS amOng thc 13erbers t00.

timle European swashbucklcrs startcd nOSing arOund the iSlandS in the Middle Ages, they were peopled by a variety Of tribes onen rnore hostile t。 。ne another than to visiting strangcrs.

Guanche Society For all thcir difllcrcnccs, the tribes Of tlle

Canary lsiands had lnuch in cOminon.They all led a primitive existence,their Stone‐

Age ccOnomy reliant on liinited farining, herding, hunting and gathering. The rnain

SOurCCS Of mea weに gOats(impOned iOm North A■ ica?)and ish.Barley was grOwn and,grOund and tOaSted,お mled gqβο,thc basic staple which in one lor:n or anotheris still eaten tOday.

The w。 lnen madc p。 ■ely,o食 en decOrat‐

ed with vcgetable dyes. Implements and WCapons were fashiOned roughly Of wOOd,

stonc and bone.(〕 oat‐ skin leather was the

baSiS ofmost garments,whilejcwcnery and Omaments wcre largcly rcstrictcd to earth_ enwarc bead and shcll nccklaces. The rna10rib′ of isianders lived in caves, mostly a■ incial.In the castem islands(now

the prOVincc of Las Palmas)sOme built siinple 10w houses,with rOugh stonc walls

and w00d_beam rOOfs cOvered with stOnes and cakcd with wet earth.

()ddly enOugh, the(〕 uanchcs secrn tO have kno、 vn nOthing ofsailing,at bcst using

sinlple dugouts fOr coastal ishing Or to rnove occasiOnally bctwcen thc islands.

Arnong the(]uanchcs'prirnitive、 veapons Were the bα ″ο′ (lanCe), rOcks and the ′ ′ ,a stone wrapped up in animal hide 9″ θ `″ and uscd as a mace. ・

hc Guanches wOrshippcd a gOd,known as AlCOrac in Gran Canaria,Achainan in I｀

1｀

his wOuld lend still mOre credence to the

feeling that the isiands'Original inhabitants

Were all 13erbcr nligrants, and sO dispel rnore iinaginative speculation Of the kind lllentiOned above.

Whcn and in what nurnbcr these peOple occupied the isiands rcmains a mystery,but

it appcars certain that thcy camc 6roin scvcral tribes.101nc ofthem inay have been the Canarii tribc,which cOuld explain the

iSiandS'present name. ceinainly, by the

Tenerife and Abora in La Palma.It appears the god was identined strongly with lagec (the Sun).Tenerit islanders commOnly held that Hades was in the lleide volcano, di‐ reCtCd by thC gOd ofcvil,Guayota.

For a people who rcgarded death and gOre with sOrne disdain,they wentto enOr‐ mous trouble tO facilitate one's passage ■Oin thiS life tO the next.Although not as

eXpertl aS the Egyptians, thc(Guanches

listory

16 Facts about the lsiands-1‐

:nunl:nined their dcad chicfs and nobles bcfore laying thenl out in burial Caves― usually in barely accessible locations.´ rhe

embalrners were treatcd as untouChables, excluded fiorn cornrnunity life.

epic Nα νなαrfο β″″″αガ).For centurics sai10rs tricd in vain tO ind `St 13rendan's lsiand'in the Atiantic.

´ herc is circurnstantial evidence that I｀

Arabs operating Out Of Muslirn Poll:ugal in

´ 「 hc head of a tribe or region was the ″′″ ,althOugh in Gran Canaria the more `りchicPs title was g“ α″arた ″ι.His common

the 10th century not Only landed in the

mle was almost absolutc,althOuま juStiCe was adrninistered through a council of nObleS(α C力 f″ ιθ ッ),SOmetimeS knOWn aS

Europcan ianding COrnCS in thC late 13th or

ο′.A ´ οOr′ αgο`″´ a rα ο

little like thc ancient

BaSque parilament WhiCh uSed tO Sit

isiands,but left behind sorne setlerS.

´ I｀

hc irst vaguely tcnablc account of a

carly 14th ccntury, when the Genoese captain iLanzarotto(or Lancelotto)Malo‐ cello burnped into the isiand that WOuld later bear hiS nanle: Iン anZarOte● Frorn then

bcneath the Arb。 l dc Gcmika(the Tree of Guernicめ ,the taoro would usua‖ y gather under the ancient branches ofa dragon tree

on slavcrs,drearncrs searching for the Rfo

αεο).BCtWeen them,the ChiCf αθ″αど″ (Drα ε

thOught spllled into the Atlantic at about the

εαχ″α, or and the like, leaving thc α メ

aries bent on spreading the Word ali nlade

plebs,tO get a10ng as best they could.Al‐ though cssentially a patriarchal society,

excursions to the isiands.

and aristocrtts owncd all prope■ y,■ ocks `カ

wornen did have sOrnc pOwer. C)n Gran

de orO(the`River of Gold'route for the legendary African gold trade that many same latitude aS thC iSiandS),and miSSiOn‐

Of thesc missions,the most iinpottant backed

was thc ltalian‐ led and Po■ uguese

canaria in paniculat succession riJltS Were pasSed thrOu」 l the mOther rather than the

expeditiOn of 1341..Three caravels charted a course around all scven isiandS and took

father.But when tirnes got tough,they got tOugher still for Woiner). Infanticidc was practiSCd thrOu』 Out the iSiandS in pCriOdS

nOte even Of the tiniest isiets: the Canary lsiands werc inally,Inore or less acCurate― ly,on the lnap.

of fanlinc,and itヽ vas giris who werc sacri‐

■ced,nevcr boys. ′ 「 he isiand clans were not avcrse to squabbling and by the tirnc the Europcan cOnquest ofthe isiands got undclぃ vay in the 15th century,′ Ilenerifeヽ vaS diVided into no

ran canaria tOo had bcen a patchwork ofrninor princi‐ palitics,but by the 15th ccntury thesc had nlerged to fornl two kingdorns,one based arOund the tOwn of G41dat another around less than nine tiny ncfdoms.(〕

The Conquest Begins (D)n l May 1402,Jcan de B6thenCOun,Lord

of Granvilic in NOrmandy(France)and

SOFnething Ofan adVenturer,Set Out lrOnl I´ a

Rochelle With a srnall and ill― equipped pa■ y for the Canary lsiands.The avoWed

aim,お

the priests brouttt along for the ri“

would teStltt WaS tO COnVertthe hCathen iS‐

landers.(Jppern10st in de 136thencourt's inind、 vas rnore likely thc hopc ofglory and

divided in wO,and tiny:La Palina bOasted

a fast buck.Hc and his partner,Gadifer de la Salle, nlay have hoped to usc the Ca‐

an astOnishing 12 cantons.The othcr isiands wcre cach l■ llcd by one menccy.

narics as a launch pad for exploration ofthe A■・ican coaSt in SearCh Of the Rlo dc()ro.

l｀

eldc. Fueneventura waS another iSiand

That prOICCt neVer gOt Off the grOund,and

The First Encounters Vi

ually no wri■en record relmains ofvisits

tO the Fortunate lsles until the 14th century.

Rurnour has it that lreland's St Brendan turned up in the 6th centul)′

after a re:nark―

able voyagc in scarch ofthe`prornised land OfSaintS'(lmm。 ■aliSed in the 10th‐ Century

thc buccanecrs dccided to take over the isiands instead. So commenced a lengthy and ingiorious chapter of invasion,treaCh‐

ery and bungling. Many (〕 uanches wOuld iose theirlives or be sold into siavery in the

cOrning century,the rernainder deStined tO be swallo、 ved up by the invading society.

︻∽”＞ Ｕ ” ｒ＞ ﹁＞ 〓≦ ， ︼∽ ｒ

Ｌ ︶“

ｒ＞ ０ ０ ，〓 ””＞

︼”Ｚ由”︼”¨

︻Ｏ ｒ ヽ″ 目︶曰

∩”口 ︼ ”目●ｏ 囀二ｏ︻ ，

丁

 ・   ■  一  ´   一  ´  ．  イ   ・    ヽ一 ，

静理” 事語・ ・

Ｌ舅一 婦一 一 ｆ ・︰︰・ ・ヽ ヨ

︼∽ ” ＞ 二 ︶ ”   ・

”ｒ 〓 Ｈ”””０

曇婿輩電雲 ︶ ヨ

一  ¨ 

雰 恩

◎←

︼∽ｒ＞ Ｕ 口 ゛＞ ０ ”＞ Ｚ ６＞Ｚ ＞ ”︻ ＞

塚颯 炒藤 彊

３ ｒ＞ Ｕ ” ■＞ Ｚ Ｎン”０↓”

︻い ｒヽ″ ︻︶”

﹁Ｃ ●”﹁“く 日Ｚ ＨＣ”＞

閣旧＝

frorrヽ

嘲 洲 曲 躍 躍目 鰹

﹄ 躙 □硼

ヽ ノ iew

Ermita de San Sebastian,Santa Clruz de la Palrna,lsla de la Palrna

Facts about the lslands― I:Iistory 17

De B6thencourt's motley crew ianded itttin Lanz、rote,at that stage governcd by

Mencey lGuardafFa. There was no rcsis‐ tance, and dc 136thencoul・ lt went on to establish a lort on Fuelteventura.

That was as far as he got.Having run out ofsupphcs and with too fcw incn forthe en‐

terprise,he headed for Spain,where he aiined to obtain thc backing ofthe Castilian crown.What had stall:cd as a private Frcnch CntCrpriSe thuS bCCaFnC a SpaniSh inlpCrial‐ ist adventurc.

Dc B6thencourt returned in 1404 with ships, men and inoney. Fuerteventllra, El I‐

Iicl■

,o,and iLa(:〕 ornera quickly fell undcr

his control. Appointed lord of the four isiands by the Castilian king Enrique III,dc B6thencourt encouraged the se■ leinent of

Madeira in 1452; there then follo、 vcd a string ofrninor Spanish nobility,all eager to sc‖ on their rittts to the islands almost as soon as tlley had acquired thern.

Numerous commanders undertook the business of atacking the other isiands,but with extraordinarily little success. Whilst better al■ ned than their Stone― Age adver‐

sarics, thc SPaniards were repeatedly confounded by their encrnics' guerrilla tactics.

Landing a force was rarely a problcm, but making any headway into the interior was quite anOther inatter.(]uil16n Peraza dicd in al attcmpt to assault La Palina in

1443. In 1464, Peraza's brother― in― law Diego de Herrcra,appointed Lord of La (3oincra, attel■ lpted a landing on Cran

Norman fal■ iners and began to pull in the pro■ ts.He returned holnc to Norrnandy in 1406,where hc dicd 16 ycars iatct lcaving

Canaria and another near prcscnt day Santa

his ncphew Maciotin chargc.

with the Canarios, the people of(Gran

Squabb:es,Bungles&Stagnation

(E)ruz de・

Ilenerife,both ending in failurc.By

1466 he had managed to sign a tradc treaty Clanaria,and won pennission to build a de‐

What lollo、 ved could hardly be dcscribcd as

fensive turret in (〕 ando bay. Intcrmittent ciashes continued over the ensuing iycars,

one ofthe world's grandest colonial undcr―

but the Spaniards rnade no real progress.

takings.It was characterised by continued

squabbling and the occasional mutiny among thc colonists, and the European presence did nothing lor the increasingly

The Fa:i of Gran Canaria ln 1478 a new cornrnander arrived

、 vith ieSh fOrCeS(inCluding fOr the■ rSt time a

unhappy islanders in the years following de

Smali CaValry unit)and OrderS iOm the

B6thencOun's departurc. Maciot soon rcvealed how ugly colonial

Catholic inonarchs of Spain,Fcrllando and lsabel,to inish the Canarics campaign off once and for all.Juan Re」 6n landed at the

adnlinistration could bc.Thc islanders were

heavily taxed, and lnany sold off into

site of inodern iLas Palinas and dug in.I― Ic

siaveliy;he also recruited thcm lor nurncr‐

was ilrimediately attacked by a force of 2000 under I)orarnas, guanal威 cnlc of the isiand's Teldc kingdom.Re」 6n carricd the

ous abortive raids on the renlaining thrcc independent isiands. Maciot capped it all offby selling his rights― inherited lronl his

uncle― to the four isiands to Portugal, a

day,but fell victiin to intemal intrigue by lnaking an cnei■ ly Of the spiritual head of

nlove which prornpted a tifFwith Spain,that was eventually a、 varded rights to the isiands

the conquercd territories, Canon Juan

bubbled along on a low hcat lor ycars,and

de Algaba,sided with IBIcl■ rlidez and con‐ spircd to havc Rci6n transpo■ ed to Spain in

by Pope lEugene V. ・rhis contretenlps Po■ ugal only rccognised Spanish control of the Canarics in 1479 undcrthc Treaty ofAl‐

Berrnidcz,accussing hinl ofincornpetencc. An investigator sent florn Spain, Pedro

chains.Rej6n in tum convinced the author‐

c190Vas. In return, Spain agreed that

ities in Spain that he'd been badly treated

Po■ ugal could have the Azores,(E)ape｀ /ierde

and、 ″ as given calte blanche to retum to the

and Madelra. Maciot died in sel← imposed exile in

Canaries to re― establish his control.()ne of

his irst acts was to have Algaba arrested

18 Facts about the lsiands― HistOry

and cxecuted, and this act Of vengcancc

In thc cnsuing months thc Spaniards for‐

prOVed hiS 16nal undOing,aS QuCCn ISabel believed thc I)unishinent un、 varranted and had iRej6n rcplaced by PedrO de vera.

tincd thcir positions and attenlpted talks with various ofthe nine rnenceys,nlanaging

e lVicra continued tlle canlpaign and had

13cncornc), mencey of′ ahOro and sworn

I]》

to win over those of GOflnar and Anaga. I｀

the good fo■ unc to capturc the isiand's

cncnly of the invaders, was sure Of the

Other gualaneme,TenesOr semidal(knOWn as I)on Fcrnando Guanancinc atter his

whne■ e“ maining

baptism),in an atack on G`ldar by sea.

supporlt of at least three other rnenceys, thrcc wavercd. In spring ofthc fonowing ycaち dc Lugo

Ilenesor ISenlidan was scnt to Spain, cOn‐ veinied to Christianity and returned in 1483

disaste■

´

scnt a colulmm,westwards. This proved a

to convincc his countrynlen tO give up the

BcncOmO was waiting in ambush in the Baranco de Acenteio ravine,and

nght.´ his thcy did on 29 April,and de lViera

there thc Sparlish force、vas decinlatcd at a

subsequently suggested sOme rnight like to

I・

act of trcachery that had lllarked thc long

place now called La Matan:“ ter')dcAccntejO.The survivors rctrcat, and although foiling assault on thcir positions,dc

years Ofconquest:he packed them OfftO bc sold as siaves in Spain. But the(CanariOs

be"er ofthe wholc operation and len′ it.

iearnt ofthis and forced the ships transpOrt_ ing them to putin at Lanzar()te. ARerthe■ ight負1l suppressiOn Ofa rev01t

engaged in thC SeCOnd nla10r battle Of the

sign up lor an assault On′ rlenerife.I)uly ern_

barked,deヽ icra committcd thc uinpteenth

(`the slaugh‐

beat a hasり a (〕 uanche Lugo thought Ilener_

By thc cnd ofthe year he was back,and calT:paign,at La Laguna on 14 November

in La Gomera in 1488(see thc San Sc‐ bastian section in thc chapter on La

Cuanches wcrcねr,om detatcd and de

Gomera),de Vera was relieved of his post

Lugo fell back to Sanm Cruz.

as Captain_(〕 encral ofthe conquest.

The Finai Campaigns

The stalcmate was brOken by an unex― pected ally.At the beginning Of the new year a plague kno、 ′ 1l as the″ οdο ″ ″ α began

I:)c Vera's successor、 vas aく ]alician sOldicr

to ravage the isialld. It seemed hardly tO

offortune,Alonso Fernandez de Lugo,who

aficct the Spaniards,but sOOn took a serious

in 1491 receivcd a royal cOrnrnission to conqucr La Palina and llcncrifc.Hc bcgan

toll ofthc(〕 uanches.

in La Palmain Novembct and by May the

his base at Santa Cruz in Deccmber 1495, the nlood ofthe isianders was subdued.()n

following year had the isiand under control.

´ 「 his he achieved partly by negotiation,

thOugh the last inencey of lLa Palrna,

Tanausi, and his rllen, Inaintained resis_ tance in thc villually impregnable crater Of the Caldcra de´ Flaburientc.(I)nly by enticing

1494.I‐ Icrc he had greatcr success,but the

When dc Lugo■ nally movcd again■ 01Tl 25

Decembe■

5000 (〕 uanches under

Bencomo werc routcd in the second battle ofthe Accnte」 0・ The spot,only a new k‖ o― metrcs south of La Matanza,is still callcd La Victoria(`victory')tOday.By the fol‐

him out for talks on 3 May,and thcn am‐ bushing hirn,could de Lugo dcfcat his last adversary on the island.For La lPalma,the

thc Valle de la (C)rotava tO cOnfront

war was ovcr Tenerife proved the toughest for the

and dernOralised〈 [luanches were in no statc to resist. Bcntor sulTendered and the cOn―

Spaniards to gain control.In May 1493,de

qucst was cOmplete.Pockets of resistance

Lugo landed in ・Ilencrife, near the site of

lowing July,when de Lugo inarched into Benconlo's successor i3entor,the discased

took two ycars tO rnOp up and Bentor,

modem― day Santa Cnlz,with 1000 infantry

aghast at the loss of his realm,evcntually

soldicrs and a cavalry of 150,alTlong thcnl

cornrnitted suicide.

Guanchcs lrom Gran Canaria and La (〕

ornera.

Four ycars all:er thc fal1 0f Granada and

thc reunincation of christian sl)ain, the

Facts about the lsiands-1‐ Iistory 19

atholic inonarchs could now celebrate one ofthc country's irst inlperial cxploits― thc subjug■ iOn in only 94 years of a small At‐ ([〕

lantic archipelagO defended by Neolithic tribes.Even so,the Spaniards had some dif―

■culty in fully controlling the Guanches.

やVorld by lColurnbus,、 vho called in to the archipelago scveral tinles en routc tO thc Arncricas,proved a mixcd blessingo Whilst it bЮ uttt much passing trade it also soon

becarne clcar that sugar could be rnore ´ cheaply prOduced in the Arnericas. 「 he

their traditional lives out ofreach ofthc au‐

local economy was really only savcd by the growing export dernand for winc produced ″οS′ mainly in Tcnerit― νブ (dry Wine),

thoritics.′ Ilheir agility and cunning in their

what Shakespearc called Canary Sack,was

vll land would keep this proud minority a

much apprcciatcd in Britain. ote and P00rer isiands,especially Laniz■ ・

Many refused to settle in the to、 vns cstab― lished by the colonists, prefe口 ring to live

O、

step ahead ofthe Spaniards for many years to come.

Nevenhelcss,the Guanches were des― vhilst open hostilities tined to disappcar; 、 as continued α′ ぁ had ceased, the cο ″9“ お′ lο

a prac‐ shipping thenl as siaves to Spain― ticc that had enticed sorne ofthe Europeans here in the irst place.Rcrnaining([}uanch― es were conve■ ed en masse to Christianity, taking on Christian nanles and the surnarnes

of their new Spanish godfathers. Some of the siaves, thernselves sooner or later brought to conversion,、vould be ficcd and

`ο

Fuclneventura, rernained baCkWaters,their unfortunate inhabitants inaking a living llOnl srnuggling and piracy offthe Moroc― can coast ― the latter activity pal威 l of a tit_fOr_tat game played out with the Moroc‐ cans lor centuries. Spain's control ofthe isiands did not go

cOmpletely unchallenged.Moroccan troops occupied lLanzarote in 1569 and again in 1586, but they were fairly quickly dis―

patched On cach Occasion. Sir Francis I〕

)rake engagcd in somc gunboat tactics off

lan(1,tllcy soon began to assimilatc with tllc

Las Palinas in 1595,but he too was scen of■ A Dutch necttned to repcatthe effo■ four years iater,and rnanaged to reduce the city

colonisers.Within a ccntury their language

to rubble.

perrnitted tO return to the isiands.Although

thc bulk ofthcm were disposscssed oftheir

had all but disappeared: except for a handf● l ofwords,allthat cornes down to us today are the rnany Cuanche place naines of the isiands.

EconOnlic See‐ Saw&Foreign

Chalienges As thc 16th century dawned,thc lprospects for the Canary lsiands seemed quite rosy. Gran Canaria and Tenerife in particular at‐

tracted a steady stream of settlers froin Spain, Po■ ugal, France, Italy and even Britain. Each isiand had its own local au― thority, or cα

bブ

he most spcctacular success wcnt to

cr。 lnwell's three`generals at sca'.In 1657,

a year after war had brokcn out bet、 veen

England and Spain, Blake annihilated a spanish treasure ineet(at the cost Of Only One Ship)試 Santa CruZ de TCnerife・ BritiSh

llarassment culminated in

1797 with

Admiral Horatio Neison's atack on Santa ruz. Sent there to intercept yet another treasure shiprnent, he not only failed to ([〕

stOrin the port town,but lost his right ann in the nghting.

lο

`ノ

Of appcal, cstablishcd in Las lPalinas in 1526.Sugar canc had bccn introduced floin thc POrtuguese isiand ofMadeira,and soon sugar becaine the(Clanaries' rnain export. Untilthe mid‐ 16th ccntury the islands pros‐ pered. I｀

I｀

′ , although incrcasingly

they、vcrc overshadO、 vcd by the rOyal cOun

′

′

Admiral Robert Blake, one of 01ivcr

hc `discovcry' in 1492 of the New

Isiand IRivalries Within thc Canary lsiands,a bi"er feud dc‐ ve10ped bel、 ′ cen(3ran Canaria and llenerifc ∼ OVer SupreFllaCy OfthC arChipelagO.The fOr― vith their tunes of the t、 vo rested largely 、

economicね te.As demand for Canaries' sugar fcll and wine rose,´ rlenerife,with land

much bettcr suited to the vine, inevitably

20 Facts about the lsiands―

IliistOry

took the lcad.As its expOrts grew,sO tOO did its poll:s and Ovcrall trade turnOver.

When the Canaries were declared a prOVinCe of Spain in 1821, Santa(〕 ruz de

Tenerifb was made the capital.Bickering

G:ran Canaria's politicians cOntinucd tO lobby fbr divisiOn ofthe region,and in 1911

rnanaged to resurrect the。 ld island cabil‐ dos. Santa([〕 rllz's overali cOntrol of the

hcated,and Las Palrnas fiequcntly dentand‐

archipelago wtt sapped by the restomtion of10cal isiand govel■ ■ :1lents. In 1927,Madrid inally dccided to split ′ the()anaries into two prOvinces:

practice in the 1840s.

La Golncra,La Palma and EI Hierro in the west;Fuertevcntura,Gran Canana and Lan―

between the twO main isiands remained ′ cd the prOvincc bc split in 、vO. hc idea 「 was briefly but unsucccssn.1ly put int。 Glran(Canaria was in any case beginning tO redreSS the eCOnOnlic imbalance.As winc in itS turn began to drop ofF as a nl`り Or revenuc earner, cochineal prOduction was intrOduCed aS an eXpOrt Commodiり .At thc same time,SirAlied Lcwis Jones sct up the

Grand Canaly cOaling cOmpany in Las Palinas― the po■ was sOOn every bit as busy as that Of Santa Cruz.

Ilcnerifし

zarote in the east.

F:ightto the Americas

・ 「 he cochineal boorn,was fol10wed by bust in thc 1870s as chcmical(lyes caine On to the nlarket.So the Canary lsiands turned tO

other raw ex.pOrt products:bananas,and to a lesser extent,tOmatoes and pOtatoes. Again,thc boOin― bust cycic upset all the

A Little Libert6 in Tene‖ e The French Revolution、 ″as not for the hearted.When Jean‐ Baptiste Drouet, SOn Of a pOStrnaSter in lSainte Menehouid faint‐

in(3hampagne,saw the leeing cardage of King Louis)ぐ ピl pu!lup on 21 June 1791,he

￨ く

菫

crゝ

got word to the revo:utionary authorities

who stopped the rOya! runaway in varennes. Drouet was eleaed a deputy Ofthe Con‐ vention a year!ater and voted with those want:ng to see the king putto death.The French had goOd reason to be wary Ofthe BntiSh in thOSe heady daysi and lDrouet advocated the hunting dOwn and execution of every Eng:ish man,1″ Ornan and chi:d resident in France,an idea that、 ″as:et in abeyanCe.Captured in 1793 by the Aust ‐ ans,he was back in action on the Counci: of FiVe Hundred in 1795.:mprisoned lor conspiracy a yeaFiate「 he eSCaped tO Tene"fe. :n1797,lghting in the defence oF Santa Cru2 againStAdnlira:Horatio Ne:son's ianding atternptS,he ina::y gOt the OppOrtun:ty to kill a lew Eng!ishFnen.A musket ba!i shatered

Ne:son's

ght elbow as he atempted to cOme ashore;he was rescued and sh。

eon ampuね te his arm just below the shouider Thereaterire in Sunny Santa CruZヽ ″ aS p:easant,butlor D)「 ouetthere、 ″ as

■ly ater

had his ship's sul●

hOnne;he returned to France aner Nap。 !eon had estab!ished the ennpire.

no p!ace like

,

Facts about the lslands―

HiStOry 21

of Melilla(Spalish North A'ic→ rose pre― rnaturely on 17 July,he was ready.Having

A BHef&Bitter Exile

seized control of the isiands viltually without a struggle(the pro‐ Rcpublican

The Feeling of sorFle CanariOS that perhapsthey have morein common w.lh

cominandcr ofthe Las Palmas galTison died in mysteriOus circurnstances on 14 July),

Afnca than Europe is perhaps not en‐ tirely spu

Franco new to Morocco on 19 July.Al‐

ous,although they'd prefer to

be pan oFSpain thanioin,sa"Morocco.

though there、 vas viltually no fighting in the

Back in 1895, the iast oF the proud Bantu warrior kings, Gungunhana, ar‐ rived in the Cana"es a dispilted and

rounding up anyone vaguely suspccted of

islands,the Nationalists wasted no time in harbouring Republican sympathies.

broken man.Aged only 45,he had at‐ tempted to proted his kingdom of Ga:り

Francoism thus calne to the Canary ,

in mlodern day Mozambique,by p:aying oi the vanous European pOwers against one another lt workedう or a、 ″hile,but in

the end he and his men were over‐ by the Portuguese. He found asy:unl in the lCanariesi but

whe:rned in battle‐

!ived for on:y another yea[

lsiands iom thc outset,butthc wa on the mainland lasted three ycars.The postwar ecOnOmic misery of Spain was shared by thc C)anary lsiands,and again many opted to emigrate.In the 1950s the situation was so dcsPcrate that 16,000 Canarios migrated clandcstincly, mainly toヽ icnezuela,even thOugh by then that cOuntry had closcd its d00rs to ftl■ hcr inllnigration.A third of thOse l″ hO attcinpted to■ ee perished in the

ocean crossings.

rosy calculations.WWI and the British sea blockade ofthe contincnt、 vrecked interna‐

Tourism&`Nationalis:Tr

tional trade and suddenly the banana

prOved the mOst astOunding.When Franco

scemed more like a lemon.This time Ca‐ narios voted with their feet, choosing to

decided to open up the doors ofthe country to no前 hern European tourists― sun‐ smcd

migrate to Latin America; CInigrants

and on tight budgcts― the Canancs benefit‐

shipped Ou tO join theirお rbears in Cuba, ｀ 4enezuela, Uruguay, Nicaragua, Mexico 、

ed as much as the nlainiand. Millions of holiday― makers now pour into the islands yelar‐ round. Not everyone was satisied with the sun‐

and([〕 uaternala.

The(3anary lsiands'latest rnonoculture has

led recovery. AIways a fringc

Civil War&Franco's Spain

tan_10tiOn‐

The isiands' econoiny picked up slowly

phenO:nenOn,canaries natiOnalisin staned

aner wwI,but inorc shocks were in storc. In 1931,thc sccon(l rcpublic was dcclared

tO resurfacc in OppOsition to Franco.

in Madrid,heralding a period of hope ulti‐

Cubillo to prolmotc secession iom Spain,

inately dashed by chaos. As the lenl and rightin mainiand Spain becanle increasing_ ly nlllitant,fears of a coup grew.In March

cinbarked On a telTOrist campaign in the late

1936,thc goverllrrlent decided to`transfer' (:〕

cncral Franco,a veteran of Spain's wars

in Morocco and beloved of the tough Spanish Foreign Legion, to thc Canary lsiands.

Suspicions that he was involved in a plot

tO OvenhrOw the govcrnment were well lounded,and when the pro‐ coup garrisons

MPAIC, founded in 1963 by Antonio 1970s;Cubino was expelled(he WaS iater al10Wed tO retum). In 1978,a new constitution was passcd in Madrid with devolution as onc ofits ccntral pillars.「 『 hus

thc Canary lslands bccaine a σο″″″′ dα′α″ ο″α(aubnOmOuS regiOn) in August 1982, `′ but remained divided in two provinces. The inain force in Canary lsiands politics since its rcgional election victory in 1995

22 Facts about the lsiands― (3eography

hぉ been thc Coalici6n Canaria(CC).Whilc

islands to thc coast. Watcr flows along

not bent on indcpcndence flom Spain

sorne,but others rcnlain distrcssingly dry.

(WhiCh WOuld bC unlikely),thc CC never‐ theless puts the interests of the isiands

Lanzarote and Fue:teventura, thc tヽ vo nlost easterly islands, would bc quitc at

befbrC natiOnal ConSideratiOnS(See alSo thC

home ifattachcd tO thc nearby cOast ofcon‐ tinental Africa.Violcanic in origin― like the

Govcrnmcnt section below).Indeed,thc `nationalists',along witll their Basquc and

Catalan countcrparts on thc mainland,wcκ essential to the right― wing PanidO POpular's

(PP)aCccssion to govcmmcntin Madrid in March 1996.And thcy nlake their support conditional on cOnsideratiOn given to their wants.I)isillusion、 vith the PanidO sOcial_

cntire archipelago一 their iandscapes are othel￢ 、 voridly.Although both hilly, ncithcr isiand is blessed with iinpressivc nloun‐ tains.´ hc highest point is the Jandia peak ￨『

(807m)in southern Fuerteventura. Long strctches ofbeach arc Fuerteventura's great‐

ista Obrero Espaiol(PSOE),which was

cst tourist drawcard. Lanzarote was iast rockcd by a volcanic eruption in 1824,but

enveloped in a series Of scandals in the

the 1730 blasts lgave thc isiand its present

1990s, distrust of thc PP and a general

appearance. Eruptions are scary, but the

feeling that the islands arc trcated as a back‐

lava can be good news fOr farincrs,creating

water by thc big natiOnal panics mγ

just

kccp the CC in thc pilot's seat in the fore‐ seeable futurc.

GEOGRAPHY

´ I・

he (〕 anary

lsiands, an archipelago of

seven isiands and six isiets l12km lrom the

Atiantic coast of North A■ ica,lic l120km

t

lc ground whcre befOre thcrc was

nothing.Today Lanlz■・ ote still produces a wide range ofcrops including cereals,vcg― etables and wine grapes,grOwn rnOstly On volcanic hilisides.T'he Montaias dcl Fucgo

in the Parquc Nacional de Timanねya

still

givc ofF plcnけ of hc誠 ,enough tO nry an

egg. And thc isiand's fine black sand

south‐ wcst of Spain.

bcachcs arc an attraction. North of thc

and 29th paralleis, and the seven rnain

six little islets(the other is lsla de lLobos,

islands have a total arca of 7447 sq krn.

just or thc no■ henl tip of Fucieventura),

heir total arca inay nOt be great, but packed into thcm isjust abO eveW imag‐

of which lsia(Graciosa is the largest.It is

inable kind of landscape, frOm thc long

(1)ran(Canaria is roughly a circular_bascd volcanic pyranlid,its nOrthcrn half surpris‐

・ 「 he archipelago lies between the 28th

1｀

sandy beaches of Fuclteventura and dunes of Gran Canaria to thc malestic Atlantic cliHも 。f・ rlenerine and:nist_enveloped、 v。 。 ds

of La Gomera;iom the almOst Saharan dese■ lscape of the casternrnOst isiands to the rock‐ wali spectacle of the(Caldera de

island are clustered i6ve Ofthe archipelago's

hornc to a few hundred pcople.

ingly grecn and fertile, and stili to some

extent dorninated by the now eclipsed banana business.South ofthe peak Of POz。 dc las Nieves(1949m),thc teFit01γ iS mOre arid,reminiscent of Gran Canaria's eastem

Taburiente in La Palma.Thc highest moun― ′

ncighbOurs.´ rburists cOrning to thc southeril

(3718m)which dominatcs the whOlc isiand

FnOre WCalth tO the iSiand than banana plan‐

of・ Ilenerife.

tatiOnS COuld cvcr have donc. For the

tain in al1 0f Spain is the

Tヽ

Ileidc ipcak

lone ofthc isiands have rivers,and lack

sandy bcachcs and duncs have brOught

varicty of its geography,Oora and clirilate,

Of Water remains a serious problem.Ex‐

the island is often dubbed a `cOntinent in

tracting nunds iom Madrid for water‐

miniature'.

COnSeⅣ 江iOn

prOり eCtS iS alWayS hi』

On the

([〕

ran Canaria's big brOthet at least in

list of prioritics of CanariOs IPoliticians in

terins ofsize,is´ Ilencrifc,the last redoubt of

the Spanish capital.Instead of rivers,、 vebs

the (〕

Ofみα″′″ S(raVineS)Cut■ eir Way■ Om `ο the nlountainous interiOr of n10st{Of the

uanches and every bit as much a

`mini― continent'.Alnlost two‐

thirds Of thc isiand is■ lade up of the rugged s10pes of

Facts about the lslands―

the volcanic nlountain peak and crater・ Ileide

(3718m).A hrthcr string ofmountains,the Anaga rangc,sprcads to the nOrth― cast.´ 「 hc

only real lowiands are right in thc nonh around iLa lLaguna and parts of the coast. ・ 「 he staggcring clifIゝ Ofthe nOrth cOast are

(:}eology 23

through the cracks in and around these blocks‐nowcd strearns of liquid rock.′ 「 hc power ofthe forces at work bclo、 v the crust,

contributing to the rise of the volcanic isiands ofthe Atiantic,is dinFcultto fathom.

arrested by the mountains in such a way

Nowadaysin the Canary lslands you can he surface on Lanzarote,、vherc thc Montanas

that thc south‐ 、 vcstcrn and s(Outh‐ castcrn

del Fucgo still bubble with vigour.()f the

coasts present a ll10rc screne weather

renlaining isiands,not an eruptive l)Cep has

picture.

bccn hcard fronl Fuciteventura, (3ran

much in common with onc anOthen Beter

Canaria,La Goinera or El Hierro for cen‐ ・ turies. renerife's iast display was a fairly

supplied with spring and/Or rain、 vater,they are green and ringed by rocky, ocean― bat‐

innocuous affair in 1909, and iLa Palina hosted the n10st recent spectacle, a ■ery

tcred coastlines.La Palina is do■ linated by thc yaη ′ ning nЛ nnel known as the caldera

Roque de los Muchachos(2426m).The

outburst in 1971.Lanzarote's iast eruptiく )ns took place in 1824. く :)f coursc, there is plenty of activity acrOss the in。 。r ofthe Atiantic Ocean,and

centre of La (3orncra's high

many peaks lie out of sight below the

occasionally lashed by Atlantic rain squalis,

′ 「 he relmaining western isiands have

de Lburiente,whose hittcst peak is the ″asarα

(plateau)is covered by a IJNESCC)―

listed

laurcl forest― thc Parque Nacional de(3ara‐

jonay.El Hicro,t腱 tiniest of the Canary ISiandS,iS mOuntainOuS(the hittCSt pCak iS

Malpaso at 1501m)with,again,a coastlinc

best get a feel for the rumblings below■

surface.Occasionally new volcanic isiands are pulΥled up into thc light Ofday,but they

le mor than tcble mounds

=e genemlly li■ ofloose asll and arc quickly washcd a、 vay. For centuries thc angry´ I'cidc rnountain

that seeins designed as a fo■ lrcss.

loorned inenacingly in the imaginatiOn Of

GEOLOGY

the Guanches,and later their Spanish over‐ lords. A rumbling god of the undeln″ orld was thought to live in its bOwcls,OccasiOn‐

Thc Canary lsiands are litle mOre than the tips of a vast voicanic inountain range that ´ lies below the Atiantic. 「 hey have this in

corninon with othcr Atlantic isiands like

Madcira, the Azores and Capc Vcrde islands.ヽ /iewed this way,the highest peak in the canaries,・ rlcncrifc's・ 「 leide,is about a

7000m climb■ om the Atlantic noor!

Thc volcanoes、 vere thrown up mllllons

a■ y

giving vent to cxtreme displeasu"by bclching up his rnolten bile fronl the dcepest infernal chanlbers ofthe mountain. ′

rieide is indecd an inlprcssivc work of

naturco Not only is it Spain's hiま est peよ it is the third largcst volcano in the、

,

vOrid,

aner Ha'wali's Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. Alithrec are whatis knopvn as shicld vol‐

′

of ycars ago, about the tiine the Atias

canOes. rhey are characterised by their

Mountains were fonned in No■ hA'ica. Behind this event was the:novement of

enorrnous size and rise up in a broad cone

great siabs of the Earth's crust,known as tectonic plates.Basically,as the plate on

surnmit which contains a stccp‐ walled crater with a nat basc. ・ Teidc, like the

which A■ ica

rests pu‖

cd away,om that

at an angle of rarely nlorc than 6°

to the

Hawalian volcanoes, is principally of

which bears South America and pushed up

basalt.

against Europe,the earth crumpled and

Sometirncs such volcanoes, or siinilar ones known as stratovolcanoes,really blow thcir tops. Massive explosions cause the

f。

lded a10ng、 vhatis nOw a series OfinOun‐

tain ranges,including the Atias Range in MIorocco.Atthe samc ti:nc,g・ eat blocks of

rock werc throm up within thc Atlantic along rnuch the sarnc latitudes, and up

whole summit to cave in,emptying the vcnt,spcwing fo■ h thc upper lcvcis of the nlaginla chambcr and so blastingl awa)′

an

24 Facts about thc lsiands― (lleology

Voicanic Origins V。 ICanOeS

are fOrmed by magma(mOlten rOCk),WhiCh ComeS from the earth'S mantle,

beneath the crust.‐「 here are various theories abOut the Origins and cOnlpOsitiOn Of rnagnla:hOt,¶ uid and largely made Of basalt,it cannOtreach the eanh's surface except by way of lssures or cracks.The opening Of such a vent brings a drOp in tennperature and lessens the viscosity ofthe rnagma,afler which itis more luid and has iess trOuble making its ascentiin dc)ing so,it helps to decrease the surrOunding pressure,￨()ading tO a releaSe Of gaSeouS materiai(frOm WhiCh the fOrming magmatiC Chamber W‖ deriVe much of its eruptive force).Dropping pressure leads to a fa‖ in the magma's specinc gravity,which,、″hen it fa‖ s below that of surrounding rOcks,gets an added upward

push. Magrna alsc has a habit ofvvorking sideways,squeezing through strata of direrent rnaterials,erectively rnaking use Of a lateral fault.This lateral progression sornetimes leads to the creation of so‐ called volcanic tubes ortunne:s The liquid rock would push its、 ″ ay through weakened rock heated to extraordinary temperatures.VVhen the lava nOw passed On,the rOck wal:s were sti:l hOt enOugh tO be rnOlten,and bits、 ″。uld drip off onto the!ava¶ oor before cooling.The best exarnple you are likely to see Ofthis is atthe lCueva de los'′ lerdes in northern Lanzarote. The magnla chambers thus formed beconne the iaunch site of subsequent eruptiOns. Ylour average volcano evolves frorn an existing one eiecting highly basaltic rnagrna,in oien not so violent efFusions,frorn cracks and other vents to one、 ″ith changed,more acidic nlagma,tending towards mlore violent and spectacular!y explosive eruptiOns. Arnong the materials vomited up by volcanoes over the centuries is nephelinite,a si:ica‐ poOrlava,exclusively frOm the Teniary era,cOntaining nepheline and pyrOxene.

:tiS uSua‖ y CrySta‖ ine and,althOugh abundant in the Canav lSlandS(along With the

Azores and Cape Verde),is a comparatively rare rock.!t contains a host of minerals, including titaniurn‐ rich augite.

ヽ ′ ol(xュ nic landscape of Lanzarote

Facts about the lslands―

enorrrlous cratct´ 「 he resuit is known as a

Caldera,within which it is not unusual for new cones to erncrge, creating volcanoes within v01canOes.´「 here arc severalirnpres‐

(Clilnate 25

out the islands― it fOrms inuch Of their bedrock and the rnightyヽ Valis ofthe Caldcra de .Ilaburicnte on La Palina, lor instancc, arc made of basalt. It is a rnateria1 0cca― sionally uscd in the public buildings ofthc isiands.()thcr minerals 10und include iron, sull)hur and cOpper.

sive caldcras on(3ran Canaria,mOst notably thc Pico dc iBandalTla and the(Caldcra dc Tejeda,thc laterぉ mlcd ive minion years ago_(E)ddly enOugh,the massive Caldera de ´ raburiente on La Palma docs″ οr belong tO thiS grOup Of geO10giCal phenOrnena(al‐

eXhauSted their potential for ireworks_Ge― OlogiSts predict that the isiands ofLa PalFna

though it was iOng thOught to, and the

and・ Tlenerife are the rl10st likely candidates

generic ternl `caldera'

for futurc cruptiOns.

、 vas irst coined in the 19th century by a German geologist).

Tuming back to Teidc fOr a mOmcnt,the

Las Caiadas depression was similarly

The Canary lsiands arc far iom having

CLIMATE The Canary lslands enjoy a pa

forined by the cOmbination ofthe emptying

cularly benign climate.Indced,it secins to bc end‐

of a high ievel rnagrna chanlber and thc rc_ sultant collapse and laterai nlovenlent ofthc

lessly spring, 、′ ith nlean tcmpcratures ranging from 18° C in the winter tO abOut

summit.

24° C

Although scenlingly quicter than italy's ｀esuvius,E.tna and Stromboli,all of、 vhich

rcach the inid‐ 30s° C in suinlTler.Even on a

still have it in thcnl tO cause quite a■ ight,

cool highcr up,and thc snow atOp thc・ rieide nlount is a clear cnough sign that,in winter at any rate,somc warm cIOthing is cssential.

・ eidC iS by no mcans inishcd.Above E,tna, I｀

in Sicily,there is a cOnstant cioud ofsteam,

pushcd up through a fairly narrow vent

in summcr.Daily highs can easily

hot day at the beach, it can be pleasantly

(fOrnled by laVa build up and minor belches

his is cspccially thc casc if you intend doing any hiking in the mountains.

obvious,、 visps ofhot air can bc seen around

Fuertevcntura, thc northern sidc of the

thc pcak of′Ileidc toO. Whcrc the lava is fairly nuid in such cases, stcanl pressure can build up tO the pOint Of ejecting lava

Cluding the irSt tWO mentiOned iSiCS)iS

and/or ash in an cruption through the

hotter.

1｀

Ovcr the centurics). Although not as

narrO、 v

vent. If sufncient prcssure builds up,that vcnt can sirnply be blown Ofl Whcn they dO erupt, they belch Out all so■ s of things:ash,cinders,′。 ,(sman, P〃 ′

With the exccPtion of Lanzarote and iSlandS iS Sub‐ trOpiCal,WhilC thC SOuth(in―

gcnerally drier, Inore arid and marginally

Rainfall is slight(rarely more than 250nlrn annually, cxcept On parts of the Windblown nOrthern cOasts,、 vhere it can be as much as 750mm),and whatthere is tends

rOund bOmbS OflaVa)and grCat StreamS Of

to fali mainly on the nolllh side Ofthe nlore

molten rock.｀/lolcanic cruptiOns,hOwever, don'tjust come thrOugh one cent● l crater. C)ften subsidiary cratcrs fOrm arOund the

nlountainous islands. Rain and cloud arc carried in off the Atiantic by trade winds ISノ ο S)b10Wingin iOm thc no試 h‐ east and (α ′

rllain cone,or iava and Othcr rnatcrial crack fissures intO the nlountain and escape that

way. All thc Canary lsiands are madc of v。

1‐

prcvented ilonl reaching acrOss all the

isiands by the rnOuntains and hills.Higher alisios iom thc no■ h‐ west― prcdoininant―

ly dry tradc winds which carcss ali the

canic rock,dating at lcast nrom thc・ Ileniary era,that is anything up to 65 inillion years ag。 (great rOCk b10CkS be10ヽV the surfacc of Fuellteventura and Lanzarote have been es―

isiands― tcnd tO cap thc n。■lh‐ eastcrlics, adding to the pressure which keeps thern

timated at up to 40 million ycars 。ld). Basaltisthe cOmmOn denominatOrthrOugh_

NovembertO Febmary),when it is tasible

enlbracing the hills in a rnantle of fog.

HigheSt rainね 11 0CCurS in Winter(■ Om to be stretched Out On a sun_drenched beach

26 Facts about thc lsiands― Ecology&Environlment In the Canaries bronchitis soπ lctirnes docs

Las Palmas d● Gran Canarla :

■Or“ H31J0

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“

”

∞

_^_.● 口ЛRロ ロ_

”

郷

０

Santa lC口四

fb ro

℃ “

ｍｕ ぉ ” “ 。

¨ ” ” ０

Ｔｕ “ “ ∞ ”

ene

■●呵 H

=de￢

Ｔ“ ” “ “ ”

℃ “

硼

R● h口

well...Rheumatism,neuralgia,Bright's disease,gout,scro■ 1la,venereal and other diseぉ es ind the climtte most suitable.The

irst and second stages of consumption show material imprOvement…

.If strcngh

pcrnlits, cxcursions should flequent:y be riladc to the hilis or to the rilountains,thc

change of ait even if only for a fOw hours, being of great advantagc. All hoteis will provide luncheon in a baskct.

】 3ecause ali the isiands drop away fairly steeply into the ocean, the ([〕 ulf Strearn rnoves easily:[Onl the nOnh― west thrOugh

deep channels around and betwcen the isiands, although with iess force in the castcnl isiands.Counteracting the wannth ofthe streain is thc chillicr Canary Cun℃ nt,

which cmbraccs ie isiands as it■

ows by

the An:ican coast to、 ards Scncgal,bcforc 1′

looping west into the:nid― Atlantic.This in the south of′ Ilenerife or Gran(Canaria, while to the no■ h it's grey,cool and maybe

keeps the average water terllperatlirc tO a little below whtt might be expected in these

latitudes- 18° C in winter and 22・ C in

wct!La Palma in the west is the most

summer. Thc further west you go, the

blcsscd of thc Canarics whcn it cornes to rain,whne thc barc and comparttivcly nat

wanner the watcr gcts.

l_,ar129rote and Fue■ levcntura reccive hardly

ECOLOGY&ENVIRONMENT

a drop.′ 「 his is not so rnuch, as is oRen

As in mainiand Spain, the 1960s saw the irst waves of mass sea‐ and‐ sun tourism

Saharan A'ica but more due to their iack

crash overthe tranquil shores ofthe Canary lsiands.As Franco and his cohorts rubbed

assumed, because they lie ciosest to of rnountains.

(1)ccaslonally, especially in sumincr, a broning s,″ ο ο (the hot wind off A■ ica) howisin■ om “ thc Saha・ a,bearingswathes of dust and desert sand.Locally knoM′ n as the 滋″ ″″α,ittumsthe day intoヽ vilight,leaving

・ ey pall. 口 ´ 「 heOccanisagitatedand attheendoftheday

thcir hands in anticipation of filling up the statc cofricrs with easy tOurist d01lars, nO One FlluCh gaVe any thOught tO What inlpaCt

the tourists, or the nlushrooming coastal resorts,■ light have on the environinent.

the sun a dull,inegbctual disk in a〔

you can feel the gri:ne plastered into your

￢ouris"1,Construction&Poilution ′ hc ncar unregulated building and expan―

skin.It'S a CaSe 01 ifyOu WOn't gO tO thC

sion of rcsolls wcll into the 1980s has

Sahara,the Sahara colnes to lyou.It's at its worstin the nlost castcnl isiands.

crcatcd sornc nlonunlental eyesores,partic― ularly on the southern sidc of Tlenerifbl and

・ 「 his is the exception rather than the l■

I｀

1le

and in fact the isiands have long had a rep― utation as a place for health cures.A Samler

BrOwn,in his Mα ′ 4zο ″

s&

Jι ′ ′ α″α α,Ca″ αり′お′

■rst publishcd in 1889, noted on

Gran Canaria.Grett scabs ofholiday vinas,

hotels and condonliniuins have spread across inuch of the t、 vo isiands' southern coasts.And the problenl is not restrictcd to

thc resorts― hasty cement extensions of

`s, the SubieCt Of thC iSiandS'inVigOrating

towns and villagcs rncan that even the inte―

clime:

rior of thc isiands is being increasingly

Facts about the lsiands_Ecology&】 Environment 27 spoilcd by property dcve10pers and specu_ lators. P。 litics and innuence_peddling arc often thc unsavoury backgrOund to a fic‐

water problem is thc forest ire_With all■ ost CioCkWOrk regulariヽ ′ ,hundredS Of heCtareS of forcst arc ravaged cvery surnincr On all

quent tcndcncy to turn a blind eye tO thcse

the isiands cxcept thc already bare Lan‐

activities.:For nlost foreign visitors,the ug‐

zarote and Fuertcvcntura.

liness is ofIゝ et by the chance tO party in the

sun in winter, whcn rnost of Europe lies

Nature Reser、 ′ es

huddicd bcneath its thick, c。 ld, grey

(1)nly since the late 1980s have real steps

nlantle.

´ 「 he rnassivc innux of visitors to thc isiands ovcr rcccnt decadcs has brOught Or exacerbatcd othcr problerns. Littcring of beaches, duncs land other areas Of natural

been taken tO prOtect the isiands'natural di‐

versity.Thc 1987 1aw on the ConseⅣ

aci6n

dc Espacios Naturalcs(preservation of nature areas)dclimitcd 42%ofterritory ear‐

marked for some lorm of protection.The

bcauty, both by outsidcrs and locals,

law passed in 1994 fiom being a rnere dcc_

rcrnains a burning issue.()ccasionally ccO_ 10giCal SOCietieS Organisc massive clean― ups

regulatory:ncchanisnl.´「 he islands'four na―

laration of intent tO an en10rccable

of rubbish along bcaches and the like―

tional parks, fOr instance, are largely

worthy gestures but cqually damning cvi‐ dcnce of the extcnt to、 vhich thc problenl

prOtected fiOrn hurnan interference by rules banning visitors frOm icc camping or stray‐

persists.

ing■ Oin deined Walking pathS(SeC the

For the isiands'adrninistrators,it'sa co― nundrurn.´ 1lourisrn has corne tO represent an cssential pillar of the(E)anaries' economy,

following National Parks section).You can

which quite sirnply cannOt dO withOut it. They arguc that pronts frolTl the tourist

where you are perinitted tO hike and

trade arc ploughed back into the cOnl:nuni_ ty.HOwcver,this is stillね irly haph`2ard, and there have long becn calis fOr mOrc rc_ gional planning.

Some ofthe darnage dOne overthe years, especially to the coastline,nlay nOt be re_

versible, but the regional governnnent is (eCO‐ taX)tO levied on visitors and channellcd intO inlra‐

COnSidering an a`ο ′ αSα

be

contribute to kccping all parks and the countrysidc clean by obeying thc rulcs On kceping all yOur trash with you― take in you should also take Out.

what you

Whaies&Dolphins Several species Of whale and d01phin used tO think the canary lsiands such a friendly place that they'do■ en hang aboutjust 201■ ofF the coast.But then the isiands began tO nll with curious visitors who s。 。n started heading OuttO sea tO get a ciOser 100k.´ he I｀

structure and cnvironrnental prOtection.

more they canne, the greater thc distance thesc magnincent inaminals put bet、 veen

VVater

thernscives and the isiands.In spite Ofit all,

([)ne of the isiands'greatest and mOst pcr_ sistent problems is water,Or rather the lack

a CO10ny Of pi10t WhaleS(bα 〃′″αS′ ′ あわS)

of it. Lirnited rainfall and

う resh watcr

is based offthe south coast of´ Ilenerife.As

many as 26 whale and dolphin species(a

springls have always he11)ed restrict agricul‐

third Ofthe WOrld tOtal)haVe been ObSelVed

ture in the islands,and it is a cOmmOdiけ

or the canaly lsiands.The most common

still in short supply.

of thcm,apart iOm thc pilot whales,are Spennヽ VhalCS(ε αο力α′ ο′ ′S)and bOttlCnOSC

Desalination appcars to be thc way fo「,vard for the〈

〕anaries,which alrcady ac‐

counts for two pcr cent of thc worid's

″rS′ ο′ ,aS). Wllale observation is a lucrativc busi‐

d。 lphinS(′

desalinated water productiOn.Prctty much

ness,and oien aggressive,with boatloads

ali the drinking water on Lanzarote and

of tOurists jOstling fOr position around sch。 。ls of these aninlals_ anter all, for :nany pcOple the Canaries present a unique

Fuerteventura is desalinated sea waten ln surniner,the corollary Ofthe perennial

28 Facts about thc lsiands― Flora t%Fauna

oppo“ unity to scc whales in their natural habitat.

In 1996 a ncw iaw aiming to regLllatC Ob‐ servation of sea rnaninlals、 vent into el厳 lect_

Naturalcza)― Apdo 1015,38080 Santa Cruz dc ■ nerit(● /1ax 922 27 93 92)

ADES(Asociaci6n para la Detnsa del SurD― ([〕

alle dc lntcldo Scris 1 7,Santa Cruz de・ Ilcncr―

´ he idea is to limit thc nurnbcr of boats heading out to follow schoois at any onc

Whalcs&Tales― Apdo 7,380801_.a Laguna

tirne and curb unpleasant practices such as

works to protcct wha!es and other sealife in thc

I｀

using sonar and othcr dcviccs to attract whales'atention. Four sinall patrol boats attemptto keep a watchftll cye on these ac‐

iた

(‐

922820559).This Gcr■ lan‐ loundcd group

Canaries,as、 ve!l as organising whalc observa‐ tion trips and ecologically sensitive excursions

on various isiands

・ here has been rnuch talk of establishing a singlc nlarine centre frorn

La Palma

which all excursions wotlld be organised.It seenns cxtraordillary that, if thcrc is rcal

La Gomcra

tivities.

I｀

concern about lcaving thcsc anirnals as undisturbed as possible,such a mcasurc has

Asambica lrichen― Apdo 170, 38700, Santa Cnlz de la Palma('9224406 62) Asociaci6n Ecologista y Cultura: Guarapo― Apdo 74,38800 San Sebastiin dc la Gorncra (●

922800710)

EI Hiero

not alrcady bccn takcn.

′

here is nOthing intrinsically lⅣ rOng with joining excursions to go whale― watching. r｀

Whcrc possiblc,try tojoin an outit that rc―

spects the regulations. ・ ou could also contact the Whales&・ Tlales organisation in ￨ア

ADNIH(Asociaci6n para la DeLnsa de la Naturaleza e ldentidad del Hicro)― Ca‖ e dc la Ola 7,La Restinga(● 922558219)

FLORA&FAUNA

Tenerit(see Environmenta1 0rganisations

F:ora

be10W).

A cornbination of rich volcanic soil and the

Should you happcn,by thc way,to comc vhale or dc)lphin, call across a beached 、

varied altitude of the nlore nlountainous islands suppo■ s a surprisingly rich diversi―

:922 25 00 02 or 922 25 63 44.

ty of plant life, both indigenous and

Environmen熊 1:Organisations

imported. 】 Despite their snlall area, the C)anary ISlandS are hOFne tO abOut 2000

l口

The isiands are swarining with environ― rnental action groups, sorne nlore active

spccics, about half of them unique to the

than othcrs.Most arc rncnlbcrs of thc lFcd―

ise be a stili nlore inorid display in this cr、′

eraci6n iEcologista Canaria lBen‐ Magcc (● /fax 928 31 10 04),Ca‖ e de las Botas 5, Las Palrnas.Sonnc ofthc individual groups

tinct sho■ age of wate■ Ho、 vever,budding

(the word`Apdo'followed by numbcrindi―

the Books section of the Facts for thc Visitor chapter for sonne suggested

CateS a pOSt boX nuinber Only)yOu'1l ind On the isiands include:

isiands.1｀ hc only brakc on what might oth‐ iargcly sub‐ tropical cnvironrncnt is thc dis‐

bOtaniStS Will haVe a iCid day hCre(SCe alSO

reading).

Up until an altitude of about 400rn,the

Gran Canarla

ASCAN(Asociaci6n Canaria de Amigos de la

land is horne to plants that thrive in hot and

Natura!cza)― Ca‖c dcl Prcsidcntc Alvcar 50,

arid conditions. Whcrc fanllland has bccn irrigated, you'11 ■nd bananas, oranges, coffee, sugar cane, datcs and tobacco. In the towns,bougainvillea,hibiscus,acacia, geraniurns, marigolds and carnati()ns all

2,Lぉ Palmas(● 928273644) Fuerteventura

ASCAN―

Rosario(● Lanzarote

Calle de Juan Tadeo 6,Puerto del

928852071)

Asociaci6n Cu!tura!y Ecologista EI Guincho―

Apdo 365,35580 Arreciた ,(●

928815432;

fax 928 81 54 30) Tcnerlた

ATAN(Asociaci6n Tiner■ ia dc Amigos dc ia

contribute to the bright and colourful fcast for the cyes.()fthe nlore exotic specilnens, the strelitzia,、 ′ ith its enchanting bluc,white and orange blossorns,stands out.()。 1。 urnul though they are,these exotics have ali been

FaCtS abOut the lsiands―

introduced tO thc isiands.lI｀

he dry and un‐

cultivated scrublands near thc cOast, tlle so‐ callcd

tabaibales, hOst various indige― nous plants.

Flora&Fauna 29

the laurcl.・ he bcst placc to explore 10rcst 「

iand isin La GOmera's Parquc Nacional de Gara10nay,hOsttO Onc ofthe、 vOrid's iast re‐ nlaining Tlertiary era fOrests and declared a

At eleVatiOnS Of arOund 700in,the Ca― naries' clinlate is inOre typical of thc

UNESCO WOrid heritagc site.Known as

Mediterranean, encOuraging crops likc

laurels, holly, linden and hcather, Often

cereals, pOtatocs and grapes. Wherc the

laurisilva,it is made up Oflichen‐ swathed in swirling bands Of nlist.

crops givc way,therc are stands ofeucalyp‐

tuS and COrk thattakC up the btton.Mimosa, broOm,hOneysucklc and labulmums are alsO conlmon sights. Higher still the air is cOOler and cOrnrnon

plants and trees include holly, myrtle and

covered

Up unti1 2000m the mOst cOmmon tree you're likely tO encounter is thc Canary pine,which inanages to set down rOOts On iinpOssibly steep sIOpes which wOuld defeat most other species.It is a palticularly ha・

dy

tree,whosc nrc_resistant timber makes ine construction matc

al.The highest points Of t00 harsh 10r any but thC hardiest ofAlpine vcgetation.

Tencrit and La Palma aК

The Dragon Tree

Up in the great voicanic basin Of the

Among the more curous trees you wi‖ See in the Canary istands is the drago (dragOn treei D´acaera dracο ),WhiCh

Can reach 18m in height and live fOr cen‐

turies. The sap, predictably known as dragon'sb:ood,、R,as iOng used in various

Parquc Nacional de las Caiadas del´ a‐

Ileide

C SOmC OutStanding nowers.Apart iOm

thc tisty high‐ altimde Tcide violet,One of the nOral Syrnbols of thc(Elanaries is the r″ ″αSた ,Or TeidC Viper's bugioss.Every ●vo ycars in spring it sprouts an extraOrdi_

up to 30 species(D`acae″ a)which sur‐

nary cOrlical spike of striking red bloorns, not unlike an ear of corn in appcarance.

Sub‐ tropical zones ofthe C)!d VVo‖

COrninon acrOss thc islands,therc are sOrne

mediCineS.The tree is one oF a familソ

Of

vived the lce age in trOpical and

di and

is one of the last representatives of Ter‐ tiary era¶ Ora. ..

Although nluch Of thc vegctation is lllarked differences. FuerteVentura, Lan―

zarote and the sOuth of (:)ran Canaria distinguish thcmselvcs iom the rcst with

thcir scnlidcsert nora, whcre saltbush, Canary palms and Othcr smali shrubs dom‐ inatc.COncentrated in a couple Of spOts_ the cligも ofFaFnara in LanzarOte and Jandfa in Fucnlevcntura― you will■ nd mOrc abun― dant nOra.´ 「 hiS inCludeS thc rare card6n de Jandfa,a cactus― likc plant, sevcral species

of daisy and all sOrts Of odd cliff plants unique tO thesc islands.

Fauna

・ 「 he Fonunatc lsies are nOt Overly endowed With indigenOuS animal lit.Apalt iom in_

trOduCed animalS(SuCh aS rabbits,mice, North An・ ican hedgehOgs and dornesticated

alimalS),abOut the most intercsting land―

gOing beaSty iS a rather iarge(up t0 1m 10ng),anCient and ugly lizard(laganO dcl

SalinOr)10und Only On the island of El

30 Facts abOut the lsiands― Flora&:Fauna visitOrs rather than hOmc― grown.Arnong indigenous birds are the Canary(thOSe in the

NldlJust a pFett F『ond The pa:m treO is as co:mm10n in the αa and cianary:s:ands as nisin North Af the Middie East.Apart fmm the native

wild are a rnuck― brown colour, not the sunny yellow colour of their dornesticated COuSinS), and a COuple Of typeS Of largC ′ ″,″ ι. Cornrnon 力 pigeon, the rα b′ ε ` and “ throughout the isiands arc quails,crows, panridges,sparro、vs,blackbirds,WarblerS, blue tits,chafinches,kestrels,various types

for instance, had none until Hernan.

fated governo■ Peraza, the isiand's i‖ ‐ decided to imド )■ some iom No出 A前 は

A hid lybrid betwЮ n theい O has a:so taken]rrn口 oot in the islaids. Even when not cunivated for dates,

of owl and grcen inches. scveral species are scen only in Lan― ・ zarOtc and Fuertcventura. 「 he 力″bα ′α bustard is onc, as is thc black oyster‐ catche■

´ I｀

he odd eagle or vtllturc can also be scen.

nbs ofitsieaves can bo used in fumture,

οο,Whose ()nc to look out for is the力 οο l′ vhite wing patterils,curved beak black‐ and‐ 、 and striking crest are hard tO miss.

、 ″hi:e the individua: leaf strands are handy for baskeヽ ″are.The baSe of the

Sec also Whales&I:)olphins in thc pre‐ ceding EcO10gy and iEnvironinent section.

this gracei』 i troo,lwhich grolw,s inore than

20m● ‖,p"vides■ ne,sturdy

timber The

:eaves was traditional:y used fOr fuel, whi!e the fn」 n sta:ks and lbre could be

used to make rope and other packing nla‐ tedaL Palm leaVeS aiso come in handy for ceiebrating the Ch■ stian feast of Paim

sunday and the Jevvish Feast of Taber‐

nades. And the palrns、 ″ithout dates can slj!:

.The Co:Tleros,for provide sustenanα 〕

exampie,o

ract what they ca!!pa:m sap,of the

honey frolm the gt′ a`aρ O,Or

pa!m, boi:ing it intO a dark, sticky and svveet!iquid.

Spanish missiona

es thought the

Marine Life The waters around the Clanary lsiands host

350 species of ish,(lve of thenl known Only here,and about 600 spccies of algac. ´

rhe farnous Monk Scals no longer hang

about Lanzarote and Fuelnleventura― ncarest c。 10nies are in Mauritania―

the but

therc is talk of attcnlpting to reintroduce thcnl to the archipelago.()ut at sca,several species of、 vhale and dolphin can occasion‐ ally be spo■ cd cruising about,and thcre is

nO shOrtage of organised trips for this

pa:mS SO han釣 ′ thatthey took samp!es of the canalan version to Latin Amedca in

purpOsc(sce alsO Whales&Dolphins in

the 18th centunμ

tiOn)・

preceding iEcOlogy & Environrnent scC― Therc are divc centrcs On ali the isiands

―sce thc Activities sectiOn in thC Facts for the Visitor chapter

Hierro. Its ancestors are thought tO havc gro、 vn

as large as 9rn, but until rccently it

was dcemed extinct.There may be as many as 200 in circulation,but you'd be lucky to catch a glimpse of one ill the wild. A couple of bat specics send up thc oc‐ casional night patrol― of the isiands'bats, οis cndemic. ′′ ″′οεα″α″′ Only the ο′

Rcaching br thC Sky arC mOre than 200 species of bird,although inany ofthese arc

National ParkS a(Dther Reserves With 42シ 6 of thcir territory falling undcr Onc Of eight categories of parkland, thc Canary lsiands arc one of the most exten‐ sively prOtcctcd territOries in all of Europe

―at lcast in theory. Ai the top ofthc trec are the four′ α″ ?“ `S ιs, adininistered at a statc lcvel ′αιノ ο″α′ 彙om Madridthrough ICONA(Instituto Na‐ ciOnal para la cOnservaci6n de la Natural‐

FaCtS abOut the lslands―

CZa).Thc Parquc Nacional de las Caiadas

del ・reide has as its centrepiece spain,s highest mountain,the volcanic peak ofthe

Teide;thc Parquc N¨ lonal dc Garalonay in La(〕 ornera is a splendid rainfOrest relic frorn the llcrtiary era;fbr active v。 lcanic ac_

tiVity ViSitOrS head for the Montaias del ′ Fuego in tllc Parque lヽ Iacional de riinan―

faya on Lanzarote; and the enOrinous

erOdCd‐ rOCk CauldrOn at the heart of】 La

Palma's Parque Nacional de la(Claldera de

(30Venllnent&Politics 3 1

″α′ ′″ α′ as forrn the second and inost exten‐ sive tien 'I｀ hey generally betray a greater

leVe1 0f humm intruSiOn(VllagCS,fanns, rOadS etC)than the parques nacionalcs, Inaking them incligible fOr cOnsidcration as national parks by intcrnatiOnal criteria.

The

remaining

six

categOries

are:

α′ ιs;´ ツαS″ α′ ″″ α′ as′ ″′ 0ρα″ 9′ as″″′ g″ α′ as; ″ θS`″ ツαS `SO″ ″α′ ″″α′ as `sP′ 0′ α′ as; ″ο″″″θ″′ οs″ α′ ッ″ α′ θs;ρ α′ S″ ′ S′ ″ 0′ agノ ‐ あ S;and S′ ″οS″ レた′ ιS Cた ″′ω .

llaburientc enc10scs another wOrid.

Beyond the national parks,the rcsponsi_

GOVERNMENT&POLiTiCS

bility for the adrninistratiOn and protection Of parks and Other llatural areas of interest

Even before the Canary lsiands lⅣ cre de‐ Clared a Single proVince of Spain in 1821,

reStSヽ Vith

COmpetitiOn fOr priFnaCy betヽ VeCn the tヽ V0

Spain'S regiOnal governnlents.A

1 994 rcgiOnal law identines seven other di‐ visions Of telTitOry、 ″Orthy of protectiOn in

the Canalγ lslands.0,f thcse,thc′ αあ S 9″ ′

main iSiands, Tlenerife and Gran Canaria, had iong been intense.・ The election ofSanta ([〕

ruz as the provincial capital infuriatcd

Nice Dog,10ood Dog :f you‐ co口 ne across a sOlid:ooking do9 1″ ■ h a big head and Stern ga20,yOu are probab:y getting to knO'wthe Canary Do9, knoヽ n in lSpanish as the ρaesa carario.This beasty is right up R′

there With the Pit 13ui!as a tenacious guard dog, !oya!and Chummy wthi、 human o、 腑lers but rareiywelldiSpOSed toouト s:ders.

32 Facts about the lsiandS― (3ovcminent&Politics

、 vOrthies in Las Palmas,the main city on Gran Canaria,and

p01iticians and Other

inarked the beginning of a long´ight to

have the province split in t、 v。 . rhat idca 、 vas tricd and slheivcd in the 1840s,and it

Only becamc reality in 1927. Lanzarote, Fucrteventura and Gran Canaria fonned one province,with Las Palinas as capital,while

Tcncrifc,La Palma,La GOmera and El Hierro were grouped under thc lcadership of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. The historic electoral victory of the so―

cialistsin Madrid in 1982 was accompanied by the declaration ofthe Canary lsiands as ααグ α″′ ο″α, one of 17 au‐ a cο ″″″ブ ′ `″ across Spain. 「 hc tOnO:T)ous regions region's flag is a yellow,bluc andヽ

Vhite tri‐

lour ― to which thc tw militant ′ s′α ∫add seven stars to rcpre‐ ′ ″グ ￨′ ′″グ ″′ ´ sent the isiands_ 「 he provincial diVision

c。

￨′

￨′

isiands are nuithcr subdividcd intO tO、 vn and οs.As district municipalities,Or″ ″″た″′ can be imagined,these ive tiers ofgovern‐

inent incvitably lcad to sornc bureaucratiC

doubling up. A■ ler Franco's death,the Partido Social―

ista Obrero Espaiol(PSOE)rose to become thc s"Ongcst natiOnal pany in the Canary vhilc the right‐ wing Partido lsiands, 、 POpula(PP)tended tO run a diStant SeCOnd・ There was nO shO“ age Oflocal panies ittt‐ ing lor scraps of the electorate, but inost

strllggled thrOugh the 1980s.Occasionally, howcveL one or other grouping managed to

swing enough votes to go into coalition with the maJOr pa■

ies.

Since the carly 1990s,these splintered lorces have becn able to bury their assortcd hatChetS(amOng them the age‐ 01d riValry

between Gran Canaria and Tenerife politi‐

rcmains intact, as docs the bitter rivallγ o. So■ luch so that the rc‐ bet、 veen the

CianS)and fOrm What iS tOday thC mOSt

gional governrnent llas oficcs in both

COalici6n Canaria(CC),Which has also

provincial capitals,which altcrnate as lcad Ciり 。fthe regiOn CVCry 10ur yearS,tO COin‐ vith regiOnal elections. All citizens cide 、 Over the age of 18 are entitled to vote. Article 148 of the national constitution grants considcrable po、 ver to thc regional

gOne by the narnc Of Coalici6n lヽ

government, which coVers areas ranging lronl agriculture through transport and ′ tourism to hcalth and local policing. rhc

narics with 33%of the vote.´「

cOmunidad raises its own taxes,topped up by contributions fronl the ccntral state's

In the 1996 general SI)anish clections which saw the demise of the socialists in

cOfflers.In the case ofthe Canary lsiands,a spccial deal on investnient and taxes has tO

Madrid and thc victory ofthe PR the CC was one of three`natiOnaliSt'pa eS(the

be negOtiatcd witll the European Union

Others were thc 13asque PNV and Catalon‐

every few years.The Canary lsiands gov‐

ian ciu pa■ ies)to pront nr。 lm the cIosencss Ofthe vote,prornising thcir suppc)rt for the ne、 v prime nlinister Jos6ヽ 4arfa Aznar only in rcturn for concessions to thcir denlands

crnment,usua‖ y with Madrid's support, argucs that thcir geographical position crcates ccrtain disadvantagcs with rcspect tO the rest Of tlle Union, and so requires cOmpensation in the fon■ l of its exccption‐

al status. So far this has not caused a problenl.

pOwerful politica1 lorce in the isiands,the lacional‐

ista. Its conccrn is irst and forcnlost to

improve thc deal the Canarics get,om ヽ4adrid.

In the 1995 rcgional elections thc CC becallle the singlc biggest force in the Ca― he PI》

canle

in on 31%and the PSOE,by now reeling under a spate Of scandals,on 239る

.

fOr greacr autonomy.

The cc's platfOnn in 1996 was wide‐ ranging, and among thcir high‐ minded OtteCtiVeS Were thC COntr。 1 0f Crime and drug abuse,clirnination of waiting lists in

TO the ordinary Canarios the most im― pOrtant lcvc1 0f govcrnrnent is the cabF′ ′ s

hospitals,inlproved inances fbr education

(indiVidual iSiand adminiStratiOnS),WhiCh wcrc resurrccted in 1912 and are dircctly

and a host of other socially laudat,le goals. Frorn Madrid thcy denlanded chcaper trans‐

responsible for cach of the isiands.The

pOnl between thc isiands and thc mainland

lο

OAMIEN SIMONIS

JE」 多

1.

Top Lei:Doorway,Ermita de San Sebastian de ia(3ornera Top lRight:Detail,Casa de Co16n in Plaza deI Pilar Nuevo,Las Palrnas de(3ran Canaria Bo■om Left:16th― century facades,Avenida Maritima,Santa Cruz de la Palma Bottom Right:Ca‖ e de la Cruz,Teguise,lsla de Lanzarote

猾鰺罐六 K塾 ∝豊

Ti:ing Left:Tiled seats and fountain,F)laza de1 25 de Julio,Santa(E)ruz de Tienerife Top Righti Sign,Plaza de la ConstituciOn,Santa Cruz de la Palrna Botom R19hti S19n fo「 barrio,Puerto del Rosario,isla de Fuerteventura

:Econoiny 33

Facts about thc lsiands―

and conlplete local contr。 1 0f pOrts, air―

ly account for about 4.5%and 99る of the

pc)its,public utilities and other cntcrprises.

islands'gross dolllcstic prOduct,while the

In thc(:)anaries thcmseives,the situation in Madrid is exactly reversed.For therc thc

SeⅣ iCeS SCCtOr(Of WhiCh a large Chunk iS tOuriSm‐ related)reprCSCntS a WhOpping

cc govcrns with suppon nrom the PP.Thc

regional premier,Manucl Hcrinoso,and

80% of the total. With in excess of 7.5 rnill10n tOuriStS(Staying On aVerage 10

Aznar play an interesting ganle.'The social― ists have lately tried tO cOnvince the 10cal

dayS)f100ding intO the iSiandS eVery yCar it iS CaSy tO identiウ the iSiandS'lateSt CaSh

PP tojoin thenl in durnping Hermoso.Such a movc would see the CC withdraw suppOrt

crop.Indeed,in 1997 thc isiands snlashed

6rorn Aznarin Madrid and so in turn thrcat― en his position.All ofthis obligcs Aznar to try to rcign in thc Canarics PI)in order to

tors! Exporting bananas and tOFnatOeS iS a

kccp his own lpolitical skin intact!

rather wild local cstirnatc claimcd the Ca‐

In iate 1997,howcver,Aznar dealt some― thing Of a b10w tO the(Clanary lsiands by agrecing to a slightly watered‐ dOwn agrec―

narics account for 25% of worldwide

ment with Brusseis on thc REF(R6gimen

inery at Santa Cruz de Tenerife and sOme

all their o、 vn records with 8.4 million visi―

pOor earner by cOrnparisOn.´ Ouris.l is such rキ

a pillar in the islands' economy that One

tourism(a trinc hard to belicve,but it gets thc point across!).Aside nrom■ he big oil re―

Econ6mico y Fiscal).This regulates the

food processing, secOndary industry is

isiands'exceptional status within the EU,

ofthe Canaios might,theК was itle they

barely in evidence. Thc isiands'exports arc fairly lirnited.(Df thc total annual incOme Oflcss than tJSSlrn lrorn products s。 ld abrOad,a little over half

could do-1-Iel■ T10sO's OppOnents,especial_

comes ioin fruit and vegetablcs, with

ly the PS()E,were doing evcrything they

seafood coming in a distant secOnd,repre_ scnting a sixth ofthe incomc.A great deal Of the iSiandCrS'(and tOuriStS')needS are mct by impo■ s worth USS6m annually. Special tax breaks and regulations are airned to act as a nlagnet to business and

and timc limits wcre inlpOsed On cenain kinds of investnlent aid.Grumble as some

could to depictthe agrcernent as a cOmplete

failurc Of the regiOnal governrncnt and an added reason lor dumping HelTnoso. All the laments asidc, it was cstinlated that 70 bi‖ lon ptas(あ out USS460m)in aid

would arrive in the Canarics'om EU cogiers in the course of 1998.

ECONOMY

´ 「 he fortunes of the([〕 anary lsiands have, since the tirne oftheir cOnquest by Spain in

the 15th Century, alWayS bCCn F)recarious.

residents in the isiands.There are ali sO■ oftax discounts and the like fOr businesses

s

(10Ca1 0r breign)aiming tO Qperate herC, while low indirect taxation acts as an in‐ centive tO rcsidents tO reinain in the isiands.

Whnc IVA(′ ″′″ωわ Sο み σ′ ッα′ο″ “ of VAT,can α力ααプ dο ),the Spanish vcrsion

An obligatory stop on the old Spanish tradc routes to Sollth Amcrica,the islands'econ‐

run up to 16% in inainiand Spain, the

vas based on cash crops.()ver the omy 、

ga″ a″ α′:″ ″″ ′cゎ οα″α″ね),is a n■

centuries sugar, wine grapes, cochincal (uSCd in the prOduCtiOn Ofnatural dyeS)and・ bananas were the backl)()ne of the isiands'

cxport economy.Prcdictably,this nlade thc isiands and their oftcn struggiing inhabi‐ tants prcy to thc vagarics Of、 vOrid markets and boorn‐ bust cycles. Crisis Often trig‐

Cana:γ lsiand equivalent,IGIC(′ ″P″ θ Sわ

4.5%,

conlpensating for thc higher base cOst Of irnpOned goOds and generally resulting in cheaper retail shOpping than On the rnain‐ land・ PCtr01,alCOhOl and tObaCCO arC SubieCt to spccial low taxes too.

All ofthis may Or may not havc a posi‐

gered waves of emigation,mostly to Latin

tive effect on the isialnds'cconorny,and the 10cal statisticians can point to a per capita

Amcrica_

C〕

Agriculture and lightindustry respective―

I)P only a little way behind the Spanish

national average.lB)ut average、 vages in the

34 Facts about the lsiands― Population&People

iSiandS aC 10Wer than On the mainland(thC nlost recent statistics put the average ntain‐

land wagc at 217,000 ptas a month and 182,000 ptas a month in the Canary lslands) and of■ cially 1 6.5%of thc islands'work―

force is jobless, highcr than thc national avcrage of 13%.I《 leep in inind that the of― ■cial igurcs call bc dcccptivc.UnofIIcially thejobless rttc in thc isiands has been esti‐

■lated as higll as 27%, cornparcd with a national rate of about 24%.AIso wo h re‐ membering is that,by some estiinates,thc Spanish iTlininlunl wage is the lowest in the

European tJnion.

(from thc Guanche nameお r much ofthc isiand,Maxorata),La Gomera Gomcros;La Palma Palmareios;and EI Hiero Hcπ eios. Most of the locals have the classic

Mcditcl■・ anean looks ofthe Spaniards(with perhapS a li■ le BerbCr miXed in)― dark hat

nashing eyes and olive complexion. But talk to thein for a wihilc and you might not

ind thcy think of thcrnsclves so much as Spanlards. The godos(Goths),as the Canarios refer to Spaniards flonl the peninsula,are not au― tonlatically thought of as being pa」 :Of thc

family,and while mainlandcrs likc to jokc about the Canarios being An,ican,therc arc

POPULAT10N&PEOPLE

sornc in thc islands who actually prefer to

′ 「 hC tOtal rCSidCnt pOpulatiOn Ofthe Canary

think of thcmscivcs as A■ ican(at least

364,414, and now stands at l,605,400,

insofar as this distinguishes them lrom the rest ofSpain).Aner all,they are a lot closer to A■ ica than Spain.

lslands at the turn of thc ccntury was

growing atthe slow rate of l.1596 annually. For every(Canary lslandeL Or(I〕 anario,■ ve loreigners visit the istands each year! Thc bulk ofthe l)。 pulation is concentrat‐

EDuCAT:ON Education is frec and obligatory in the

ed in the t、 vo rnain isiands,(]ran Canaria

(I)anary lsiands lヒ onl the age of six to 14.

(714,139)and Tenerife(665,562).Of the

About a third of pupils attcnd Catholic

renlaining isiands, the population ranges

schools,which arc oftcn subsidised by the state. Upon rnatriculation, students must

iom 81,521 inLaPalmatojust8338inEl HiclTo.With an average of 215 people per

also sit entrancc exains for university. Stu―

sq km,the Cana電 /1siands are considerably

dcnts study lor six years or so,taking out qualincations such as the diplornada a■ er

nlorc crowdcd than inainiand Spain,、 vherc there are only 77 people per sq km. ()nly a nraction ofallthe people who visit the Canaries decide to stay for good.At thc last count,54,000 foreigners called the Ca‐

three years and the licenciado a■ er another two or thrcc ycars'study.

naries home.Thc Germans(12,000)and BritS(11,000)Were by far Out in iOnt.Of

Canary lsiands,at La Laguna in´ renerife. Many Canarios ind thcrnsclves heading for

the 7700 1ronl the Arnericas,rnany arc de―

thc rnainland to pursuc thcir preferrcd

scendants of Canarios who migrated thcre

courses. Argurnent raged for years about whcther a sccOnd university shOuld bc cs‐ tablished in Gran Canaria.Long considered by′ incrfcios as an extravagant doubling up of La Laguna,which started as a inodest outpost of learning in 1701,the vocation‐ oriented Universidad dc l′ as Palrnas de Gran Canaria、 vas inally sct up in 1989.

generations ago. lVlenezuelans(2000)and C;ubans(1200)are the best represented,and both countries were favoured dcstinations for nligrants,Om thc Oftcn iess than fOn‐

u‐

nate isles.

Although thc terrn Canario has conle to designate ali thc isianders,it Once referred nlorc strictly to thc pcople of Gran Canaria

alonc(now more onen as notretred to as

´ hcrc are 33 universitics across Spain, I｀

but until recently there was only one in the

I｀

ARTS

Grancanarios or Canariones).The people of

Painting

Tencrifc are Tincrfcios;those of Lan,夕

trote

Cuanche Cave Artl The Guanches ien

are Lanzarotcios;Fuc■ lcvcntura MaJOrcros

bchind cavc paintings in various parts ofthc

Facts about the lsiands―

iSiandS,partiCularly in the CuCVaS(CaVeS)。

f

Baranco de Balos,Agacte,G`ldar(all on

(1887‐

Ans 35

1938)whose speciality was murals,

is best represented by his Pο ι ,"α α ι′A`σ ″ツ

Gran Canaria), Bclmaco and Zarza(La

Pο ′ ″αα′′ αη

Palma)and thc Cucvas dc EI Julin(El

`″ Poem ofthe Earth).This and othcr works

Hierr《 )).ThC

can be seen in thc gallcry dcdicated to hirn

paintingS appear tO date baCk

at least to the 13th and 14th ccnturies,tlle

pcriod imrncdiately preceding the begin― ning ofthe Spanish invasion.Sornc ofthcm

dcpict human and aniinal igures, while OtherS(SuCh aS in thC([〕 ueVa Pintada de

G`ldar)areお Кmost gcomctric ngurcs and dccorativc designs.Circles and ovals seern

to have been the preferred syrnbols and igure anlong funerary inscriptions in Lan― zarote and iLa Palma.

′α (POem OfthC SCa and

in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. The Cuban‐ Canario Jos6 Aguiar Garcfa vho grcw up in Cuba of (1895-1976), 、 Gomero parents.Ile was a prolinc paintet and again it is in his mural works that he reachcd the apogee of his craft.His works arc sprcad across thc islands; the f'レ Js0 力οhangs in the casino in Santa Cruz dc 1s′ ′ ´ I｀

enerife.

Allthc great cunents of European aI:■ 1tercd through to the Canary lsiands.(1)fthc

FrolTi Conquest to the 19th Century lt

so‐ callcd

was quite sorne time a■ er the conquest of the([)anary lsiands before any painters of

ing include Francesc Miranda Bonnin

note began to appcar.

Gaspar dc Qucvedo■ om Tenerit was the nrst nl句 。r painter to emerge iom the

Canary lslands in the 17th centu理 Quc‐ vedo was succeeded in the 18th century by /・

([〕

rist6bal I― Iernandez

de Quintana(1659-

Coloristas,names worth mention‐

(1911‐ 63);and Jesis Arcncibia,who did the

big mural in the lgicsia dc San Antonio de Tamaraceite on Gran Canaria. ・ he irst surrealist cxpOsitiOn in spain was hcld on ll May 1935 in Santa Cruz de r｀

Tlencrife.1｀ hc greatcst local exponent ofsur‐

realism, Tinerfeio Oscar Dominguez

1725),who left work behind in the Catedral dc la Laguna,・ rienerife.ヽ 4ore important was

(1906‐ 57),ended up in Paris in 1927 and was rnuch influcnced by Picasso. Cubist

Juan de Miranda(1723‐ 1805),among

Antonio Padr6n (1920‐ 68) now has a

whose outstanding works is Lα Иグο″αε′ `′ d′ あs Pα sゎ ″s(The Adoration ofthe Shep‐ hcrds)in the lglesia de la Concepci6n in

nluseurn dedicated to his works in his birtll‐

period include Fclo Monz6n(1910‐

Santa Cruz de Tenerife.His best known

Jorgc Oramas(1911-35).

acolyte was Luis dc la Cruz y Rfos(1776‐ 1853),born in La Orotava and above all a po■ raitist.

Valcntin Sanz Carta(1849-98)was anlong the 1lrst Canarios to produce、

vorks

place,G`ldar(Gran Canaria).Others ofthe

89)and

Leading the neld of abstract artists is

Manuel Mlllな es(1921-72),native of Las Palmas.Lanarotc's C6sar Manriquc(1919‐ 92)also enJOyed a dcgree of intern江 lonal recognition.

Canarios curently working hard at the

depicting the land in thc 19th century.

ヽ4era(1931‐

(:)thers of his ilk includcd Lorenzo Pastor and Lillicr y Thruillё ,whose work can be seen in the Museo de 13ellas All;es in Santa

canvas include Cristino de

Cruz de Tenerifc.

Castro(1930‐ ).Jos6 Luis Fttardo(1941‐ ) usesjust about any matcrials which come to

The 20th lCentury Thc Canary lslands' inain exponent of lrnpressionisin was Manuel Gonz▲ lcz M`ndez(1843‐ 1909),

hand in his oftcn bizarre works.

prcssionism in his paintings, and Maria

Scu:pture

′hangs whose」 ι αン を″ ι ノン を″ο」 ′″dο ιノ」 E,r′ο

l｀

in the Ayuntamiento de Santa Cruz de

sho■ in the Canaries.Two names you may

Ilcncrifc.

come across are Jos6 L可

lα

`ノ

´

1ヽ

´

16stor ヽ4artin Fernindez de la 「 orre

),

whO displays elernents of a priinitivc cx―

he roll call of inlportant sculptors is rather

rcz(1756-

`n Pё de Salas 1815)and Fcrnando Est6vez

36 Facts aboutthe lsiands―

Ans

1854).Theお mcr's mostimpO■ ant works arc the C″ ′ srο in thc Catedral de Las (1788‐

Palmas and the Crぉ ′ ο αθ ′ α Cο ′ ″″″α (ChriSt at thC Pillar)in the lgleSia de Tleror

(Gran Canaria).Est6vez is at his best in SP′ιSο (ChriSt CapturCd). Ⅳク′S′′α ′ S′ 力ο αd`′ αs И″g`s′ Iα s,the masterpiece Of MigucI Arroyo(1920‐ ),stalds in the lglesia

J′ S′

dcl Pilar in santa lcruz dc´ ricncrife.

Morc reccntly,Eduardo Grcgorio(1903‐ 74)and Pl`cido Fleitas(1915-72)actwo of the more outstanding inoderlllsts, Martin Chirino(1925‐ )remains an icon of abstract

sculpture, heavily innuenced by Anrican and Guanchc an.He nOw spreads his timc

throughout mainland Spain is barely prcscnt

in thc isiands.A hangovcr,om the years Of Muslinl rule, the use Of brick rather than StOne, and eXquiSitC WOOden CeilingS(α ″‐ ″ αグ′′αS)Set ChriStian SpaniSh mOnumCntS apani nrom anything else in Europe.()■ lcn

mud● ar innuences would be combined With Other Sり lCS impOrtCd and adapted iOm

across thc Pyrcnees.Only a few scraps Of mudqar in■ uence made it to thc isiands. Probably the best exanlples are the ine cell‐

ingS(in thiS CaSe knOWn aS

α′′ ′Sο ″α

)in

``ο the lglesia dc la Concepci6n in lし a ILaguna, ´ rlenerife. Not far behind are those of thc

lglesia de Santa Catalina,in'Ilacorontc,on

bctwcen the Canaly lslands and the USA.

thc sanle isiand.

Architecture Before the Conquest The(I)uanches lived

Piateresque & Baroque ln mainland

lnore o食 en than not in caves, and Of thc

monuinents marked the arrival of the Rc― naissance.Known as plateresquc,it has its

rudimentary houses thcy built nOthing rcnlains today.

Spain,a rather particular style OfdecOrating

singlc greatest repository in thc(Clastilian

city of Salamanca,whOsc cxtraordina:γ

Gothic&Mudttar Spaniards,POttugucsc,

ed―

11lces drip with controlled detail,busts and

French,Flemish, Italian and cven iEnglish

swirling moti亀 .An almost imperceptiblc

nlasters all inJected sornething(Ofthcir Own architectural wcalth intO the Canaries.It is wotth bearing this in rnind lⅣ hen cOntern_

taste ofit can be had atthe Catedral de ILas Palinas and the lgiesia dc la Concepci6n in La Laguna,Tlenerife― the later a veritablc

plating thc styics of architecture brieny

rctrcnce work of styles iom thc gothic

described bclo、 v.´ 「 hcre is little that can be

thrOugh the mudttar tO the platereSque.The

considcrcd architecturally `pure' in the

Casa dc lCo16n in Las Palinas also has

handlu1 0f OutStanding mOnuFnentS the

platcrcsque featurcs.´ 「 hc tradcrnark Of the

isiands possess. 13y the tirne the conqucst of the isiands

17th ccntury, baroque, lcft scvcral traces

ヽ vas cornpleted at the cnd of the 15th Century, the gOthiC and mud● ar StylCS

across the archipelago alld is bcst prcserved in the parish church of Betancuria(Fuerte‐

Ventura), built On the ruinS Of an earliCr

gothic church which was destroycd by

alrcady belonged inore to thc past than the present.The Catedral dc Las Palmas is nev―

pirates late in the 1 6th century.

enheless a ine example Of what sOmc an historians havc dcnorninated Atlantic gothic.´ 「 hc bcll tower of the 13asflica dc la

Modern Tirnes lヽ leoclassical, ncOgOthic and other styles typical of a pcrhaps icss

Virgen del Pino (Tcror, Gran Canaria)

crcativc cra,lronl the late 18th century on,

retains its Portuguese gOthic identity.I)。

are representcd in impOsing public build― ings of the bigger cities,but as、 ′ ith their

n't

include the Catedral dc Arucas(Gran Canaria)in the CquatiOn hOWeVer― thiS magninccnt edince, with ali the soaring power and cOmplcxity ofthe style,is inね

ct

a ncogothic imitation.

The mudttar Style WhiCh CharaCtCriSeS a

swathe of churches and public buildings

continental countcrparts,ν valTant less inter― est than their predecessors.´ he Catedral de Arucas,alrcady mentiOned,is an impに ssive I・

picce ofncogothic― it's a shanlc it's notthc genuinc article.

Modernisrn, with its use of giass and

Facts about the lsiands― Arts 37

wrought iron,nlakes an appearance in such constructions as thc Mcrcado deI Pue■ o in

Las Palmnas de Gran Canaria,along with private houses in areas like Las Palinas' ´ riana district and Las Ranlblas in Santa Cruz dc Tcnerit. I・

Miiitary Architecture Apart ioin church‐ cs, the singlc nlost cornnlon construction cflorts ilonl the earliest days of conqucst went intO castles and f01ns.This iasted until well into the 1 8th ccntury..Thc bulk ofthese forts were and are rough‐ and‐ ready affairs,

and few have particular artistic inerit. Arnong those to look out forthough are thc ´ 「 。rrc dei conde (San SebaStian dc la

ards in the 15th century, thc Guanches appear not to have known writing. Sorne― thing of a nrontier worid evcn after the conqucst,the Canaries were not an iinrne‐ diate source of writcrs of worid rcnown. Little if anything that the isiands havc pro‐

duced in the way of literature has nlade it into English transiation. ´ 「 his is not to say the isianders have bcen inactive.・ hc C)uanchcs thcrnselves did not write down their verscs,but all ltalian his‐ torian, Leonardo Tlorriani,rnade e賢 lorts to I｀

transiate soine of their ballads. And with thc conquistadorcs carne storytellers to chronicle their exploits.

Various ihistorians and pocts followed,

Gomera),Castilo dc la Luz(Las Palmas de

but thc irst of note beyond tlle isiands was

Gran Canaria)and the Castino dc San Juan (Santa CruZ de Tenerit).

the Tinertio Jos6 de Vicra y Clavij。 (1731‐ 1813),an accomplished poet but known above ali for his painstaking history

Popu:ar Architecture Rural houscs werc and are,Of coursc,sinlple aFfairs.′「 he out―

standing elerncnt was usually the internal ′ ο,in、vhich a great dcal of cOunyard,Or′ α′ family life was played out.Anothcr singu‐

4ο ′ α ffJs′ ο′′ α of thc islands, ′ 、 ′ οjα s グ ′ Jα s. His contemporary, G`″ α′a′ lcα ″ク″ `′ Tomas dc lriane(1750‐ 91),bol■ lin Pucno dc la Cruz, was for ycars sorncthing of a ￨′

dandy in Madrid court circles. He wrote

lar eleinent about thesc houses,usually

71メ b“ ′ αs ι′ ′ α″′ αs, scvcral plays, b、lt his ′

vhitcwashcd, brilliantly 、

`″ poetry and tales charged With a rnOrdent

was the wooden

balcony protruding lrorn windo、 vs in those hOuSeS COnSiSting Oftヽ V00r FnOre f100rS.At thcir rnost elaborate,such balconies are in‐ tricately carved wOrks Of an.

Private houscs and mansions in the towns and cities lnight incorporatc various styles With,Say,a platereSquC(Or platereSquC‐ likC)

entrance, woodcn balconies of various types alld a striking variety of broad win―

dows.The windows are in somc cascs truc works Of an,multi‐ paned and、 vith varied corribinations of woodcn shu■ ers, iames and pancls. ・ he patio, again, remains a paramount element― usually the rnost strik‐ I｀

ing and bcautifbl pan1 0f canariO houses. ´ 「 he lnix in many cases bears signs of Por‐ tuguese and Andalucfan in■ uence. lf you were to seck out these urban jewcls only once,you should do so in La(0,rotava and

La Laguna(Tenerine).

wit,constituted his lasting work.

Ricardo Murphy(1814-40)led the way for Romantic POetry in the isiands,and suc‐ curnbed at an carly age,like so nlany ardent

pOCtS OfthC time,tO tuberCu10SiS(WhiCh he contracted in London).

Nicolis Est`vanez(1838‐ 1914),spcnt rnuCh OfhiS life outSidC the Canary ISiandS, as soldier and politician in Madrid,and thcn 40 years'exile in France.His poems,in par― ticular one called(5'α ″α′ s,■ larked hiin as `α the rrlotor behind the so‐ callcd Escuela Re‐

gionalista, a school of poets dcvoting thernselves to thenles iess universal and more identinable with the archipelag。 Another of the islands' great historians enlerged about the sanle tirne.Agustin Mil― .

lares Torres(1826-96)is remembered for his rl10nurncntal ffisrο ′ ′ α G′ ″θ′ α′グ ′ αs lο

ls′

αs Cα ″α″′ αs

Bcnito P6rcz(3ald6s(1843‐ 1920),con‐ Literature Before the a口 rival ofthe conqucring Spani‐

sidered thc greatcst Spanish novelist sincc Migucl〈 ]ervantcs and up there with i3alzac

38 FaCtS abOutthe lslands― Arts

and DiCkens, grew up in Las PallTlas,

Music

moving to Madrid in 1862.A prolinc chron‐

Traditiona:The sylmbo1 0fthe Canarios'

iCler Ofhis tinles,he produced 46 historical

musical heritage isthe r′ ″′た,aukelele_stylc

nOVeiS and nurnerous other books.Anlong his lnasterpieccs is the four‐ pa■ ￨′ lο ″ ′ ″″α′ α

″′ α,which recOunts the lives ofヽ vo ツプαοノ

instrunlcnt Of Obscurc Origin.While many

thoughtit was a variatiOn On the ltalian nlan‐

dolin or the Spanish and Portugucse

unhappily nla,ried WOrnen Of different social classes.Angel GuimeM(1849-1924) was born in Santa Cruz de'I｀ enerife but

g″ frα ″ ノ ′ ′ ο,it nOw appears that Berber siavcs

becorne one ofBarce10na's great lyric poets and a leading igure in Catalan theatre.

have introduced itto the isiands.

Doctor Tomis Morales(1885‐ 1921)

Shipped inお rね nnworkbythecarlyNorman invadcrs under Jean dc 136thencourt inight

It's a small wooden,■ ve‐ string instru‐ ment With a rOunded baCk(it iS Said the

bccarne in his sholl:lifc One of thc isiands'

original Berber vcrsion was irladc ofa turtle

leading cxponents of Modcrnist pOetry.A

ShCll),With a Sharp tOne.There is aiso a nou卜string version known as the c。 ″″α or ′ θ夕〃ブ ″′ ο,prcvalent in Lanzarote.

contenlporary ofhis,also ofsorne nOtc,、

vas

Alonso Quesada(1886-1925). The year 1927 is inarked out as the key

The timple has travelled widcly,as emi―

point in anOther cra Of splendOur in

grants l腋・ 01Υ l the isiands took it with thcnl tO

Spanish ieters,and the pOet JOseina de la TOrre(1909‐ )WaS One Of its most impor‐

tant igures in the(Canaries.As the 20th

Cuba and othcr Latin Ainerican countries, 、 vhere it was incOrpOrated intO their instru― mcntal repenO:γ

century wOre on, so the pocts of the Van―

Whenever iyou see 10cal traditional

.

guardia tOok the ccntre stage. Arnong them in the Canary lsiands were Pedro Perdorno Acedo (1897-1977)and Felix I:)elgado(1904‐ 36).

Isaac de Vega(1920‐ )has been One of this century's Outstanding novelists in the C)anaries. His flι ′ αsα is a disturbing study of alicnatiOn and sOlitudc.

Carmcn Labret Dfaz's(192卜 )Ⅳα″

iestas,the tinlple will be there accOrnpany_

ing SuCh danCeS aS the」 Sα md力 κα,Or if yOu'“ luCky thC r″ α″ αSr′ ,abOut the Only dance said to have been passcd dOwn fl‐ Orn the ancient(]uanches. If you espccially like the tinlple, yOu could do worscthan ge■ ing h01d ofa CI)by Dol■ ingo Rodrigucz Oramas,knOwn as El

,

Colorado.

written in the wake Ofthe Civil wat iS the partly autObiOgraphical account of a young

Los Sabandcios is One Of thc rnOst Widely known fOlk10ric groups in the

girl's move■om her home in thc Canary

Canary lslands,and their latest CI),Gα

lsiands to study in pOst― Civil Walr Barce― lona,、vhere she is Obliged to livc in squa10r

is a good serving of this light,melodic

with hcr grandmOthet She has followcd this

ぁ グι′

nluslc.

ヽ vlcrode is a popular group dcdicated to

up with other novcis Oflesser irnpact and,in 1961, C′ α″ (]α ″α′ ′ α,a guide to her honle

traditional(〕 anario nlusic.With six singcrs,

island.

emerge anlong the post― rnOderll pOets Ofthe

eulogies and melanchOly rec。 llections of cmi[ァ ant life.The CDラ をJ″ ′ ′И力οs cOntains a collection of their best、 vOrk. ヽ viatch out

1980s w,s Yolanda Soler Onfs(1964-).

too for´raburientc.(E)ne ofthcir bc■

Sο bあ′θ ′И″bα ″,writtcn'om

レ′νο(ア α″ι′.()thcr groups to bcar in lllind includc lLos Goloncs,Mcstisay and

(:)ne of the inost creativc talents tO

1982 to 1986,

is a collcction of pieccs whOse inlagcs arc

sourced largcly nronl an cxploration of isiand poetic traditions. C)thcr contenlporary nOvelists t。

look out

for are Roberto Cabrera and E Dfaz Marrero.

their repeitoire includes sentirnental isiand

er(,Ds

is ,ゞ

Aioranza. ()ver the centuries there has been no sho■ age ofmigration iom Andalucfa in the

south of Spain, and with it caine anothcr

inusical tradition. Popular Andalucian

Facts about the lslandS―

SOCieヽ ′&COnduCt 39

αg″ ′力α have becomc danccs such asthe″ α′

worid, lasting nriendships require spade―

pan1 0f the 10cal isiand f01k tradition.Fla‐

work. People socialise in the streets. I)inncr

mcnco, howcvet is prctty nluch absent

parties and intirnate gatherings in people's

lronl the isiands.

hol■ les

ContenlpOrary ln the mid-1990s a nc、 v

are the exception ratherthan the rule.

Canarios arc a pretty relaxed iot but,

star burst onto the Spanish music stage and

again,rclaxation is donc in different ways.

by 1998 1ooked set to makc in‐ roads into

Like:nainland spaniards and inost Latins,

the world scenc. Rosana Arbelo, born in

the Canarioslikc to drcss well,atleast when

Lanzarotc in 1962, is a inc singer‐ song‐ αs,was a writer whOse nrst CD,Z″ ″αs Rο ′ smash hitin spain and cisewhere in Europe in 1996‐ 97.Her lyrics tend to the:nelan‐ choly,accoinpanied by an appealing inix of Cuban,Spanish and A■ ican rhythms. IIoweveL the isiandS'inOSt CStablished Cα ″′ α″′ ο′ (SingC卜 SOngWriter),and One ap‐ preciatcd across all SI)ain, is Tencrife's Pedro Guera.One of his best CDs is titled οsf″ αs. Cο ′

On show.The moF extremc will drcsSto thc nines just tO headお r thc supermarket.No One expects foreigners to emulate this,but the down― at‐ heel‐ I‐ haven't‐ washed‐ for‐ a‐

vhose

same tirne.Soヽ vhcn lし ondoners are scrarn‐ bling to rnake thc・ rube in the prc_dawn

Las Ratas are a popular rock band、 only CD so far is selititled.

Politeness is a question of tastc and llabit,

and what itis depends on where you cornc )reigner

(especially ofthe Angio‐ Saxon varicty)in a bar Or shop by the excessive nulnber of`por

favors' marking each and every request.

Your avcrage Canario (and inainland Spaniard),Often diSpenSeS With pleaSe and thank yOu and just gets tO the point:`Give me a ca■ on of milk!'.How rude you might think,but thcn it's nOt custoinary for Anglos tO routinely greet all and sundry when en‐

tering the samc establiShrnentS With a οs(グ fα s. Locals also, aS they

cheery b″

pass diners`″ on tllcir way out ofa restaurant, havc an almost distressing habit ofsmiling: S(bOn appCtit)・ ι´￨′ ″ ον 力ι′ `′ Making

lnctimes inapprOpriate,panic_ ularly in restaurants and discos.A little tourists is s。

cOnll■ on sensc is a handy assct.

Questions of Time The canary lsiands and the UK share the winter cold or cursing all known gods、 vhile

SOCiETY&CONDuCT nronl. It is always easy to tell a iた

weck look favoured by some bcdraggled

`σ

quickう riends in thcse isiands is

oftcn not difncult. ヽ `10u don't nced With tO bc overly outgoing to strike up a chat peOple here(partiCularly if yOu Speak paSS‐

able SpaniSh), but dOn't eXpeCt it tO gO

much further than th江 .Hcarッ farewens and prornises offull:hcr rneetings arc,whilc not to be disrnissed,to be taken with a sizc‐ able grain ofsalt.I_′ ike any、vhere eise in thc

crawling dO、 vn the M‐ 25, your averagc Canario in Las Painlas is probably still asiecp.If not,he or she is also on thc way tO work,but with considerably less stress.

By 2 pm,most shops,business and gov― ernrnent departinents are shut and eVeryOne is heading horne for a meal with thc family or down to their favourite restaurant for a

long lunch with colleagues or nriends. Lunch can iast unti1 4 pm,and sometilnes later.The much mythologised siesta is thus ITlore onen than not dedicated to cating, family and nriends, although there's time

for a quick nap too if you Want. Your beaten LOndOner, at 2 pm, has

weather―

probably just rushed back into the ofice a■ er

a sandwich and pint swa1lowcd in

haste at thc ncarest pub.

As ofices and shops reopen(■ om about 5pm)in the Canaries,Londoners arc CIock‐ watching,waiting to rush out into the dark evening trafic horne.Although governinent ofnces,banks and the like tend to close in n in the canaries, rnost shops the an‐ ern。 。 and businesscs carry On until abOut 8 prn. ′ here's no need to rush to get horne though, bccause thosc v/ho、 vantto lgo out have bars I｀

40 FaCtS abOutthc lslands―

IRcligion

and restaurants at thcir dispOsal until the carly hOurs― no ll o'ciock ciosing here.

Somehow these peOple seern mOre in COntrO1 0f their tiine. Although in rnany resorts restaurants and bars cater tO foreign

Pronunciation Pronunciation Of Spanish is nOt dificult, given that inany Spanish sounds are siinilar to their English counterparts,and there is a

habits,locals tcnd to cat iate,rarely an・ iving

Clcar and cOnsistent relatiOnship betwecn pronunciation and spelling.If you stick to

at a reStturant bcforc 10 pin.AlTangemcnts

the following rules you should havc few

tO mCCt in a bar at rnidnight for the evening's entclltainrnent are the n。

problcrlls in being understood.

´ 「 hose steeped in the castellano of the

口nl.

And Canarios are family_Orientcd.So

Wheκ there'Sa_力 ″′ α or an outdoor ca“ on

central and northenl mainiand wili be sur‐

prised by the lLatin Ainerican lilt of the language spOken in the Canaries.It bears a

a、varni night,you'1l almOst sec as lnany kidS running abOut aS adults― even at 3 anl!

CIOSCr reSemblanCC tO What yOu hear in An‐

RELiC10N

dalucfa. 「 hc `lisP' you wOuld normally cxpect in `z'and `c'before vOwels is prO‐

()ne of the primary cOncerns Of the con‐

■ounced nlore as a sibilant `s', an(1 `s' is

quistadores,om Spain was tO cOnve“ the

′

hardly prOnOunced at all,but rather aspirat―

benighted heathcn ofthesc far nung isiands

ed

tO thC One truc faith.As the protracted and

largely ingiOrious conquest prOceeded,the indigenous inhabitants wcre swiftly cOn‐

Palinah!Swal10wing Ofconsonants like this is a nlarked feature of Canaries Spanish, and even slolid sipeakcrs of the language

vcrtcd to Christianity,usua‖ y as palt ofthc

may ind themselves wondering just how

tenns of su:Tendct Whcn arnled rcsist■ nce ended,the(〕 uanchcs seem to havc protest‐ ed little at the cOnversion l「 onl their own oncc cornplex faith,about which precious

much thcy really undcrstood On hearingi a liVely ο みα′Jα (Chat)amOng(C:anarios. The Spanish Of the Canaries has several ´ other peculiarities. 「 he standard secOnd pcrsOnal plural pronOun νοsο ″οs,`yOu',is rarely heard. Instead, the rnOre fornlal パ′ `d`s is used. Whcre mOrc than lone OptiOn appears l)r vocabulary items bel。 ,M′ , thc nrst cited is

little iS knOWn(See the HiStOry section earlier in thiS ChaptCr).

Roman Catholicism quickly t00k hold in the isiands,and as in tllc rest Of Spain has ieni a deep‐ r00ted iinpression.Although the depth of the average Canario's religiosity may be a SubieCt OfSpeCulation,the Church still plays an iinpOrtant role in people's liVeS,at leaSt′ Ю ′,″ ″α.Most CanariOs ac baptised,havc church wcddings and funcr‐

als and attend church for inllportant digious tast days,althOutt twcr than

―

LaS PalinaS SOundS nlore likc Lah

the inost corninOn usage in the isiands.´

「 he ― のたοendings of sOnne wOrds indicate fbnli_ nine and nlasculine■ )1■ ns,cg an asthmatic vソ ornan is α s″ ,drfε α ,wllile an asthmatic nlan is α s″ ´rた ο .

1り

lo)we:s

half of thc islandcrs regularly turn up fOr

l.Jnlike English, cach of the vOweis in

Sunday Mass.A good nunlber Ofthe colour‐ ■1l and onen wild iestas which takc place throughout the year have sorne religious

spanish has a unin)1..pronunciation、 vhich does not vary. For exainple, the Spanish le■ cr`a'has One pronunciatiOn rather than

context or Origin.

the numerous pronunciations we and in

LANGUAGE

English, such as the `a' in `cake', `cat', `Cart'and`call'.Many Spallish wOrds havc a WritCn aCCent・ ThiS κ utC“ CCnt(aS in

・ 「

he languagc Of thc Canary lsiands is

SpaniSh(`S′ α力οO,OtherWiSe k■ own more COreCtly aS Cお tilian(CaSた ″α″ο)tO distin‐ guish it fIOrn other inainiand tongues such

as Basquc and Catalan.

diaS)indiCatCS a Strcsscd syllable;it doesn't change the sound Ofthe vO、 vel.lvloweis are pronOunced clearly even if they are in un‐ stressed positiOns Or atthe end of a word.

Facts about the lslands-lLanguage 41 ａ     ｅ ・ ︰

somewhere be“ een the`a'in `cat'and thc`a'in`can' as in`met'

Ｏ ｕ

siinilar to the`ea'in`heat' siinilar to the`o'in`hot'

as in`p

'

Consonants Sonne Spanish consonants are the sarllc as their English counte■ )arts.The pronuncia‐ tion ofothcr consonants varies according to

which vowel follows.The Spanish alphabet also contains the letter`i',absent fiom the English alphabet.Until recentl"the clusters `ch'and`11'werc als。 。fncially sepa・ate

consonants,and you're likely to encounter many situ減 lons― cg in lists ald dictionar‐ ies― in which they are still tctted that way.

b

somewhere be als。

(less commonly)like me`b'

c

ch

like the`ch'in choose,although in the cananes it onien sounds lnOre likc`y'_`〈 ]uanche'is onen pronounced as`Guanye' as in`dog'、 vhen initial or preceded by lor n;eisewher as mc`■ 'in `thcn'

gl

as in`gate'、 1/hcn initial or bcfore

a,o)or u;elscwhere much sotten

Bcお re e oriit's a hash,bК athy sound,siinilar to the`ch'in Scot― tish`loch'

h

j

always silent

a hash,gutunl sound simila to the`ch'in Scottish`loch'

II

sirnilar to the`y'in`ycllow'

n

a nasal sOund like the`ni'in `onion'

ql

`q'is al、 ″ays follo、 ved by a silent

u and One Ofthe VOWelS e(aS in quC)。 ri(銀 lin aquO;the COm― bined sound of`qu'is like the`k' in`kick'

ea Whヽ■o

can :ndians had srrloke

signa:s,the Cuanches had the、″hist:e. ands of La Comera and C)n the snlal:腱 』 E:卜 1lo「 o,the ongina:inhabitan鮨 ,de‐ ve:oped an ingenious、 ″ay for geting messages to pa:s across doop ravines and other unconnp口 o「 lising terntory.

Where the comp:icated scunds of words couid be confused over dis‐

tance, the Guanches found that whisties l″ ere more readi:y picked up.

What pe由 aps b(Ю an as a gЮ ding or darDer sunal(a lmle like the Aus― traiian bush call`coc・ ee'),developed irito a veitabie ianguage,known today as Ei Siibo GomeFO.PiaC:ng dlnierent ingers into the rnouth in va‖ ous pOsト tiO■

een`b'and`v';

in`book'when initial or preceded by a nasalsuch as m or n a hard`c'as in`cat'when fol― lowed by a,o,u or a consonant; as the`th'in`thin'bcfOre e or i

d

Don't mumblo,G The Arne

81tO￢pnOduCe(11旧

brlnt SOundS,the

(3uanches‐ ‐ more llor iess created a lirnled WhiStlingl‐ aiphabに ,t. in an age

before the tolophone,these whist:ed

messages could be heard ulp to 4km aWay aCrOS3 deep raⅥ neS. Acco口 ding tO mlore gruesom.e ac‐

counts,the language was deve:oped a■ er

panish conquest, among the 〔 ヽ

those (3)uanches who had their わngu03 ЮmOVed by the auhOritieS br miSder71eanOurS.

lt appears that Guanches on the other is:ands may have used the:an― guage too.:n the wako ofthe lapanish conquest, a g。 。d dea: of this `ian‐ 9uage'fe:: into disuse.《 )nly proper narnes and a few ske!eね:expressions an expert on ai: sun′ ived. An Aust

things Canarian,Dr Dominik WOreL colmlpi:ed a:!the knownl words that he cou:d in 1940 and came up wnh a totai of 2909!

Nowadays, there remain a few 10Ca:S able tO prOduα D SOme OftheSe

whisled words.Thatthe language suト v:ves at a:lis due rnore than anything e:se tO tOu"sm: n see,Tls that visitOrs can't get enough of this kind of loca!

colour

42 Facts about the lsiands― Language

a rolled`r'sound;longer and

α″″夕′ ′ ′た … 2″ おセ′

I'd likc a...ticket

stronger when initial or doubled

one―

way

S“

Ｖ

rctum

Ｘ

sarne as b

Z

a′

as the`x'in`taxi'when bet、 veen ヽvo voweis;as thc`s'in`say'

Directions

whcn preceding a consonant

l wantto go to...

as thc`th'in`thin'

Can you shOw me

И ノ

Yes.

,

Ⅳο

Turn left…

Tum riま t¨・

'お

at t騰 trafiC liま

.

も ″ ″ξ a"`わ`′

at the next corner

ん′ ′″7

Please.

'

Around Town

つθ屁′堕

ou're welcorne. Excuse ine. P′ rdb″ P′ dο ″a “ 1'm sorry. ιοSた ″′ ο /Dお タ a `ブ `″ (お rgiVC me) IYう

I'in looking for...

a bank the...ernbassy the post ofncc the public toilets

Sma‖ Taik How are you'

`(3`′ ,`ο ιsrd'

the telephOne

I'm ine,thanks. Es′ οッらた″,g″αιJα ,

centre the tOurist ofncc

What's your narne'

′ α′ ″α どGb′ ″οsο ′ ' ■イ ′ ′′ α″ο .… `」 :)′ ″′￨``s'

My nameis... I'm■ om¨ .

"

′ α´ :鵬 曖 “ as,“"χ ″■

cκ:li`酸

Thalk you. Th江 's inJ

Where are you ■om?

"● Sど ″フ ●あ ″′ ``"′ たo″ ￨″ たoあ C:た o″ ″夕 ■り… C,″ ′″ ″ ″ “`θ r¨ .

′

No.

`ブ

αッッ θ′ ′ α “

● ″ "オ 4,'

〃ο′ αノ ノ

([)oodbye.

Jα

。 `ゎ ′l. “ ′r凛 ′ ′Mθ

(On the map)? Go stralま t ttead.

Basics HcHo.

′ ο(Or″

`″ S`あ ′ dα )

as in`send'

.

′ α″)ι ″αグ′ r″ ″ ′ s,,,ο

Accom:nodation

``ο

Sο

島′ ο ツ ら″sι α″あ … ′″bα″σο ・ ′ αa″ b。 αaα 凛夕 ′ οs οο″ ″ s `ο あs sι ″たノ οs/ αs`ο s′ ′み′ たοs a′ ′ οσ″′ ο′ノ ο

ツ″ …

,aι み αン,″ ″ 力ο′ ′′ια″ α″ ο ' I)o you havc any ι77`″ ′力αιfrα σfο ″′s roorns avallable? ′ ′ ろ″ ιs' 1-Io、 v nluch is it. ? `C″ d″ ′ οc″ .¨ ' `srα per night ′ο″′οθ力ι per pcrson Sο ″ α ′ο″′′″ May l see it' α ど′ αわ ッ ′ ' “ ″ε`″ Is breakfast [,sr`f′ ′ ″′ ′′ ど」 includcd' ``′ s`り′ ″

where is a

`z:)`′

cheap hotcl?

Language:Dif■ cuities Viο ソE″ ′ ′ θ″ α′ ″g′``ο ιs, どfrα ら′

I(dOn't)underStand.1つ I〕

)O yOu speak English?

Could you v′ rite

thatど

dOWn,plCttC?

.

″′ ι′ ″ ′ ο `sο 力νο″' ′ο″、

P″ ο d′

,

lο

Gletting Around Whattime does theど И 9″ ′力ο″αsα ′ ′ ...leave/arrive' ′ ′ ′gα . '

buS(City)

buS(intCrCiサ

)

Where is the… .'

bus stop

train station

`ダ

'2ο

youth hostel

ο′g“ αg″ ″ α′ οら′s/b″ s “ ag″ ″ ι′g″ αン′ Oε α ″ `D`′ ′ ¨ ' ′ α′α′`sra■ α″α″ ` α〃′ οb′ s ′ ,″ d`″ α α て

canlping iground hotel

`′

g″ ι′ ￨`′α α′ b′ ″ ″″ ノ″ ″′ g Cα ″P′ ″ なあ″物οs′ α′ Zみ ο ″′ ′′′

Food

lθ

`s′

'

breakfast

ι s “

lunch dinncr

Jι sα ツ″ ″ο

α′ ″′θ″ zο /ε ο ″ブ αα ε α `″

Facts about the lsiands―

Time&Dates ιあ″ αω

「hat time is it? ヽ toぬ y

'

yestrぬ y

力 οツ `0″ カοッ′ο″′ αrα ″ “ ′ ,2α ″α″α a,′ ′ ′

Monday

′″

tonight

tOFnOrrOW

one milllon

″″″′ ′ ′

Z″

`″

diabetic epileptic

We“ esぬy Friday

″′ ο′ as ツOS `κ ノ′ “ ″as ν′

Saturday

s`ら αdο

Sunday

dο″′ ″gο

たs

Thursday

`′

0 1

2 3

ε ar“ο “ σ′ ″00

ぉthmatic antiseptic

aspinn condoins diarrhoca

α ″

“れ 惚 か 一

Numbers

rnedicine

nausca Sunb10Ck CrCaFri

tainpOns

6 7

s′ rs

Emergencies

sた た

I‐

8

ο

9

″`力 ′νι

Call a doctor! Call the police!

“ ″″

Go away!

10

ο

〃

Heaith I'm...

Tucsday

5

￨たルむ′ ιlゎ ″ゴ ′

3′

`s ″α″

4

100 1000 10,000

Language 43

Ielp!

Sν ″αらιrた″ ′ (1,″ C″ ο ψ′ as″ ′′ たαイ ο 4ο

′ おク′ たο “S′ 7″ α α '′ ′′ ″ "″"′ “ εO"あ 凛α77じ″ "“ ″θ″:σ ● ゎ ″′:●θα"磁 C″″α″ ``σ `07α ω ′w′ ""=′ ′ ″ ?0"α

あ ω ο/′・И″ ″わ′ ノ Z′ ノ α″“ ″″dο crο ″′ `α ・五′ ′ α″ια″ ′0′た″′ をrar ′ラ .′

isitor Fac憮3 for theヽ ′

PLANNING

precisely one,and options for the latter are

When to Go

cxtremely limited),but yOu Can Onen ind

When it corncs to sunshinc, thc Canary

quitc affordable roorns in small hotels and

lsiands arc caught in a kind of weathcr‐

apanments. Those who wish to shun the crowds and

warp, with an eternal spring‐ sunlmcr cliinate. It's a year‐ round dcstination and you can prett)′ nluch takc your pick ofヽ vhcn

y cnり 。

to go.

in cOuntry hOuses,or

the best the isiands have to offer in nature can elect to stay inland,for instancc

′ ′a tad coolcr but hc winter inonths α拓 paradisiacal when compa℃ d with mainiand

ιαsαs′ ″ α′ ιs.T｀ herc

“ is no shortage of walking possibilities and

I｀

you could casily sipcnd a couplc of wceks

Europe,thc UK md No■ h Amcrica(with

on hiking excurslons,cspecially in thc rcl― ativcly low― key westcrn islands.

the pOssiblc exception of Florida).This

Scuba diving is a popular activity and,

lnakes the l)ecenlber‐ February period pre‐

with cOurscs available,the Canarics could a

dictably the isiands' busiest, which can inean crowds and higher prices.

rnakc a pleasant spot for a diving holiday

lor both beginners and more expcrienced

Surnrner is also busy, mainly becausc that's when ntainland Spaniards clcct to go

divers.(Э ther aquatic activities, such as

(br your avcrage Madrncう o,the Canaries

dccp_sea nshing and salling, coul(l casily

can scenl refl・

eshingly`ο ο′in thc height of

lornl thc nlain thenlc around which to build

a scOrching mainland summer).Thus May

a trip to the(〕 anaries.

to ()ctobcr can also be considered high seasOn, although package prices and air

Thc Canaries arc not tenibly hard work. Independcnt travellers can trek,unaided as thcy might elsewhcrc in Europe,across thc 、 vhole archipelago.

fares start coming down by the end of Sep‐ tenlber.

Thc best periods to look R)r maximum

Maps

valuc On air farcs arc■ om Novembcr to mid_1)cccinber and, be"cr still, March to

Regiona:Maps Among the clearest and

May (with the notable exception of thc

best value inaps of ali seven isiands is pro―

intense Easter rush).Spring is a geat time

duced by Macmillan and the AA,which

to be in the isiands.

includes a ncw city plans and costs UK￡ 3.95.Kurnrnerly&Frey and the AA do

What Kind ofl・ rip?

viltually the sarne rnap for doublc the price!

The bulk of tourists arrive with a package deal,usually covering nights,transfers and

ls′α s(51α ″ α″′ αs,also

The scale on both is l:150,000.Firestonc's l:150,000,is not a bad ifyou're drlving around.

hotels.For those with liinitcd budgets,this

Spain's Ministcrio dc()bras lPiblicas iy

also usually nleans sticking to one of thc

Urbanismo(MOPU)produces口

isiands and staying lor a week or two. ´ 「 his of course can suit. If you are just

o maps at

l:200,000, one for each province― they

aner some winter sun and/。 r somc intense parり ′ ing,Opting tO Stay in the One SpOt iS

look imprcssivcly thick until you rcalise that n10st Of what is depicted is Atlantic

probably ideal.

(:)cean!

Indcpendenttravcllcrs nloving around on a lil■ litcd

bu(lgct are less cornrnon in the isiands, but there is no particular inlpcdi‐

:s:and Maps lfyou plan on staying on only

rnent. Forget about youth hostels and

tailed isiand rnap is for you. Freytag &

Canlping grOundS(Of the fOrrner there iS

Berndt docs sorne good oncs, including

one ofthe islands,thcn perhaps a nlorc de―

44

Facts fOr thc visitOr_suggcstcd ltinerarics 45

ル″ 拶 7(Germmお r■ ner詭 )at a scalc of `″ α 〃α(1:50,000)and CO″ ι″ l:75,000,ι αPα ′ (1:35,000). spain's lnstituto (〕 eogrifico Nacional

bring a light slwcater for cooler■ lorncnts, cspccially in thc cvenings,or if you intcnd to hcad inland and cxplorc lligher altitudcs.

Although rainfall is slight,a poncho or

(IGN)has a serics of detailcd island maps

sOrne Other kind of wet‐ wcather gear is ad―

too,drawn at l:50,000 but perhapstoo clut― tered to bc attractivc to the averagc hiker.

visable ifyou intend to cxPlore thc noll,herll

The SeⅣ icio Geogr,■ co del Ej6rcito pЮ ― duces still more dctailcd rnaps dividing cach ofthc islands into bite‐ sizcdlplcccs at l:25,000.´ 「 hcsc are not particularly up to

sides and nlountainS Of thC iSiandS(CXCCpt the arid Fuerteventura and Lanzarote),par‐ ticularly in the wintcr months. See Clirnatc in thc Facts about the lsiands

chaptcr for the kind of temperaturcs and

datc.

rainfall you can cxpect on your trip.

City Malps For inding your way around the tW mttOr CitieS and tOWnS,the■ ee

PaCk a better Set Of ClotheS(OthCr than jCanS and T‐ ShirtS)br diSCOS and Sma威 restaurants. Unlcss all you want to dc)is

maps handed out by tourist onFces are often

adcquatc.Othcrwisc,there arc plenty of cOrnincrcial maps available in bookshops and newsstands. E)istrinlapas dOes a g00d lnap of(3ran canaria with detailcd city rnaps of iLas ´ rhe Palrnas and thc south coast resorts_ green Everestlmap ofTencrife,while not so hot on thc isiand, has accornpanying city ″g Santa χι′ ン′ plans tO a host of places, ι

hang around bcaches and bars, you will need a pair of sturdy shoes, along with sOrnething light like sandals.For the nicer

rcstaurants,bars ctc,sornething other than grOtt)′

running shoes will be neCeSSary.

Useful items Apaln nrom any spccial per‐ sOnai nceds,consider thc following: 。under― thc― ciothcs nloney belt or shoulder

Where to Buy Maps Ylou can buy thelTlaps

wallet,useful for protccting your nloney and docurnents towel and soap,often lacking in cheap accorn‐ ■lodation smali Spanish dictionary and/or phrascbook Swiss arnly knife

you necd as you go through the isiands.

rninimal unbrcakablc cooking, cating and

C)utside the(Ξ :anaries, specialist stores like

drinking gcar ifyou plan to preparc your o、 vn lood and drinks mediCal kit(See Health) padlock ortwo to securc yourluggagc to racks

Cruz, which is ine becausc the tourist `′

oficc handout is, in this case, nlorc than suficient.

Stanford's in London(sec Books below) usually stock a fair range.

What to Bring Bring as littlc as possible. You can buy pretty rnuch anything you might need in the Canarles.

・ adapter plug for electrical applianccs ・ tOrCh(flaShlight)

・ alanll clock o sungiasscs

Luggage lf you'1l be doing any walking

Blasic drugs arc widely available and indccd nlany itcms requiring prescriptions in coun‐

with yOur luggagc,cven just iom bus sta‐

tries like thc

tiOns tO hOtels,a backpack is the best bet.

Ovcr the counter in the([〕 anary lsiands. If you require spccinc inedication,it's easicr to bring it with you.

The oncs with straps and openings that can be zipped inside a nap are thc most securc and least clurnsy. A snlall day‐ pack is handy.

しISA can bc obtained caSily

SUGGESTED:TINERAR:ES

CIothes&Shoes Although the wcatheris

with sevcn isiands to ch。 。se nrorn,and con_ siderable diversity anlong thenl, you can

generally mild all year round,yOu should

cobblc together pretty rnuch any itincrary―

46 Facts for thc Visitor―

Thc Best&the WOrst

nronl frenetic island_hopping to siothful beach cornbing.Thc following suggestions aSSurne you want to cxplorc in sOrnc dcpth

sinall,black,pebbly and sornctirnes a li■

whichcvcr islands yOu choose to visit.

thesc isiands to a trip to one Of thc nlore

Sho"TriFN5 With only a week Or twO tO spare, yOu ShOuld COnccntrate your ef〕 Fol■ s on one Or two isiands.´ Ilenerife makes a g00d one― to‐

two week destinatiOn.TriOu cOuld combine

dinEcult to get t。

le

.

Equally,yOu could atach One Or rnore of popular ones in thc east― ■lcnerife is the obvious candidate, but therc is nO reason

why you shOuld not spcnd a week on the great Sand duncs of Maspalornas,(:〕 ran Canaria, and then switch to thc `backwa‐ ters'ofthe、vest.

eXcursions to thc Tleidc peak and sOine hiking (arOund the Volcano or pa1lts of

A`Grand Tour'

nOnlhem Tlenerife like the Anaga rnountains

Tio get an irnpression of ali the isiands,you

orthc Masca gorge)with visits to thc most intCrCSting tOWnS in thC nOmh(including La OrO● Va and Sanね Cl■ 12:and the bright uni‐

need to set aside at lcast a inonth, and prefCrably mOrC like six wecks.Few visi‐

Versity toい in of La Laguna)。

When yOu've

trying tO tackle the lot in one hit.IfyOu do

had enough Of nature and culture, party

haVe the tinlC(and the interiSiand travel

aninlals can retirc to the sOuth fOr a few days' sca, sun and drinking an‐ er which you're unlikely to ind extra tiinc on yOur hands.The rcstless can embark on whale‐

COStS arC nOt prOhibitiVe fOr yOur budgCt), thCrC iS plenty tO keep lyOu oCCuF)ied,evcn without cOnsidering thc rnyriad spOrting ac‐

Spotting trips and shoot acrOss tO the lovcly isiand of La Gornera for a day. Another possibility might be a suriand‐

travel tour of the casternrnost islands,

Lanzarote and Fuertcventura― plenty Of ferrics Operatc bctween the twO, inaking

tOrs stay long cnough to evcn consider

tivitics like diving,■ shing,g。 lf and so on.

(:)n thc way, yOu inight include: thc Parquc Nacional dc la《 二 ;aldera de′

Ilaburi‐

ente(La Palrna); walks in the Parque Nacional de Garaり onay(La Gomera);a hot V()lCaniC eXpCrienCe in thc P'arquc Nacional

de Timanfaya(Lanzarote)i excursions in

getting around casy.・

´ Ilenerine's Parquc NaciOnal dc las Caiadas

bcachcs fOr swimming,suring and wind‐

dcl・ Ileidc and the ascent of the・

suring;and cnOugh ofintcrcst iniand,such ′ as the iinanfaya national park, tO keep

(the higheSt in ali Spain);thc towns of La

「 here are lots Of(lnc

Tleide ipcak

your curiOsity well stOkcd.

Laguna and La Orotava(Tenerife); Las Palmas de(Gran Canaria; sOme of the

Digging Deeper

on ・Ilenerife; the great sandy bcaches Of

I｀

Sinallcr villages,likc Masca and Garachico

With a littie n10re tilne,yOu can plan wider

ヽ4aSpaloinas and Fuelneventura; and pcr‐

ranging tripS.The thrCe westcm islands(La

hapS alSO a Walkinノ driVing CXCurSion

Palma,La Gomera and El HicrO)ac the lcast visitcd Of the archipclago.

´ I｀

his is

thrOugh the misり hcan of El Hicrro.

iargely due tO their iack of 10ng white

THE BEST&THE WORST

beaches or haininering nightlife,and inakes them a striking altcnlative tO the standard holiday for 、 vhich thc(:〕 anarics are best

Coming up with a Top 10 hit list fOr the

known.

・ 「 he thrcc isiands arc ruggcd, offering

rainforcst‐ hiking pOssibilitics, exp10ration

Of volcanOcs an(l rneandcrings thrOugh verdant countrysidc and sieepy farining Or ´ 61shing villages. 「 he seaside is never far away,it's just that the beaches are mOstly

canary ls!ands is difncult,butthc f。

11。

wing

had dcinite appcal: ・

I'he ascent Ofthe・ Tlcide ド ak(■ nerife)

hilling out On the Fuelneventura C〕

beaches of nOnhcrn

SunSCt in the Village and gorgc of Masca (TCnerit) Fccling thc vOlcanic hcat Of Lanzarotc's Mon‐ tanas del Fuego

FaCts for theヽ /isitor― ・ Ilourist C)fnccs 47

3・ ″

(Co

oe"th Condm“

miL oト

露nm mda '“ otof」 ω 1) ■1● “ 0]d鰤 of“La n31na md La OrdBV8 0Cner "責 t) “ W厠 よing m the Lw● [お uc N` "st oftho Q● o■ o.Go贈 →

0同

,ッ

P"Ч

■ std● ve`[ong El Golb md鵬 oЩ 」pa“ “,ocα“ PLy8 d01 M“ 」 C]蘭 0) F“ 6“ with′ “ 躊ツ″90′ “ ″α'″ "`g″ ``" toeS Mthり iり 錮 り (Ч r nkレ “ W」 king tho “ "ぬRut=“ 雌 恥 o`"scaP,ima)

Brazil (● 011‐ 655999)Rua

Zequinha dc Abreu 78,

Ccp 01250 Sao Paulo

Canada 416‐ 9613131)102

(●

BIoor Stヽ Vicst,34th

FIoot Toronto,Ontario M4W 3E2 1)cnnlark

33 151165)Store Kongensgade l-3,1264 Copenhagen (●

Finiand Mcchelininkatu 1 2‐ 14,001 00 Helsinki(●

09‐

441992) France

I felt l could live without a second dOse Of the fbllowing:

43■lc Decamps,75784 Paris,Cedex 16(●

1‐

45038250) Italy

Lageriouts in Playa de lぉ Am`ricas(Tcne

お)

Rush hour and parking in Las Palmas(Gran

Ⅵ a del Monlaro 19, intenl。 (● 06‐

5, Rorne 00187

6783106)

Piazza del Canlline 4,20121 Milan(● 02-72

Canaria)

The hiま priCe OfinteriSiand air hCS Pucrto Rico(Gran Canaria) Go■ o Tour‐ bus tmfnc on the road to Mぉ ca(Tcner―

Kur価 tendamm 180,10707 Berlin(●

030-

8826543) “ GratnbergcrA‖ ec 100(Kutschcrhaus),40237 Disseldorf(■ 0211-6803980) Myliusstrasse 14, 60325 Franknl:t/Main (● 069‐ 725033)

i偽 )

BananaS(I neVer Want SeC anOther banana trec

aFin!) Valverde(E!Hiero)

Schubcrstrasse 10,80336 Munich 15(●

Arriving in Santa Cniz de la Palma on thc tnγ aner nlidnight

089‐

5389075) Japan Daini Toranomon Denki BIdg 4R 3‐ 1‐ 10 Tora― nomon,Minato Ku,To19′ o105(● 03‐ 343261

Touts in the resorts

TOURiST OFFiCES

41/2)

Local Tourist O)fnces

Nether!ands

Van Meerdervoort Laan 8-8a, 2517 AJ ・ he 「 Haguc(● 070‐ 3465900)

Each island capital and many ccntrcs have

what is gencrally callcd an ()licina de

´ 「 urisino or(3)icina dc lnfonnaci6n′

004617) Gemlany

I'uristi‐

ca.smallcr towns onen have a centro de lniCiatiVaS y TuriSm。 (CIT).Opening hOurS

Noi、 ′ ay Ruselё kkvcien

26,02510s:o-2(●

228340

50) Po■ ugal

vary,as does the quality ofthe informatiOn, although generally stafF are obliging.

Av. Fontes Pereira de Mclo 51‐ 4° andar lE), 1000 Lisbon(1口 .01-3541992)

Swcden Sturepian 6,114‐ 35 Stockholm(● 08‐ 611 4136) Switzerland :5 rue Ami― L6vrier,Geneva 1201(● 022-731 1133) Scctldstrasse 19,CH 8008 Zurich(● 01‐ 252 7930/1)

￢ourist Ofnces Abroad lnfornlation on thc Canary lslands is ava11‐ able nrorn the f。 11。 wing branches of the

(Dicina Espaiola de Turisino abroad: Argentina (● 01‐

3227264)Avenida Florida 744,1°

1005 Buenos Ai“

,

Austria

0卜 5129580)Mah:crstrasse rienna― I ヽ (●

7, 1010

Belgium (● 02‐ 2801926)Rue

UK

22‐ 23

s

dcsAns21,1040 Bnlsscls

(●

USA

Manchester Square,London WI M SAP 0171-4935760)

666 Fifth Avcnue New York NY 10103 (●

212-2658822)

8383 Wilshire iBoulevard, Suite 960,Bevcrly

48 Facts for the Visitor―

Visas&Documents

Hi‖ s,Los Angeles,Calibrnia 90211(●

213-

6587188) Ⅵbter Tower Place,Suite 915,East 845 North Michigan Ave,Chicago,I‖ inois 60611(● 312‐

6421992) 1 221 lBrickel:Avcnuc,Miaini,Florida 33 131 (● 305‐

3581992)

Germany,Austria,the Ncthcrlands,Bel‐ giunl and Luxcmbourg, lorπ l part of the border‐ ■ce travcl zonc known as the Schen‐ gen Area. Sweden, Finiand, I)enrnark and rccce are expected tojoin up soon.1・ ravel ″these countries nor■lally entails no `′ passpc)it control on iand f'ontiers,at ports (E〕

bι ハ ″

or in airports, although spot checks are

ViSAS&DOCUMENTS

always possib!c.A common pollce data

It Fnay nOt 100k like it gCOgraphiCally,but

bank h`澪 bccn established and,to compcn―

thc Canary lsiands are a part of Spain. HenCe all ruleS(On paSSpO“ S,ViSaS,reSi‐

vigilance at ali non‐ Schengen lrontiers and

denCe etC)WhiCh apply tO Spain apply

for nights and vessels alriving i「 。m

equally to the Canary lsiands.

Schcngen countries(including othcr iEU

Passport

COuntrieS)haS been tightened,aS haVe the requirements lor visas.Extraordinarily,the nlcmber cOuntrles havc ″οr standardised

Citizens of the 15 Europcan Unlon(EU) rnember states, Norway and lceland can

sate for the dropping of intemal controls,

non_

travel to Spain, and hence the Canary

their list of countries whosc nationals re‐ quire visas to cnter

lsiands,with their national identity cards alone.People fiom countries which do not

Schengen cOuntry are citizens ofthe USA,

Ainong those who need no visa for any

issuc ID cards,such as the UK,must have a valid passpon.UK Visitor passpo■ s are

New Zealand,Japan,Isracl and Switzer‐

not acccptable.All non‐ EU nationals(cx‐ cluding those nrom]、 I。 ぃvay and lceland)

Spain(and thuS thC Canary ISIandS),but nOt nccessarily the other Schengen countries, are Australians and South A■ icans(includ― ing those resident in another[〕 U countl)′ ″ο′

inust have a full valid passpo■

.

If you've had the passport for a while,

land.Among those who require one for

CheCk that the eXpiry date iS at leaSt SOrne

pany to the Schengen Agreement).Resi‐

months off,otherwise you may not bc

dcnts of one Schengen country do

granted a visa(lf you need one).AIso,if full,do yourselfa favour and get a new one

require a visa for another Schengen country. POssession ofa visa lそ )r any Schengen state ′other Schengen coun‐ a1lows travel to α′

before you leave.

tries, but technically you are supposed to

By law you arc supposed to have yourII:) Card(Or paSSpOrt)With yOu at all timeS in

apply for the visa at the consulate of yOur rnain destination country. A traveller needillg a visa could try to

you travel a lot and your passpo■

is nearly

the Canarics,in casc thc police ask to see it. In practice this is unlikely to cause trouble.

″ο′

head lor the(canaries by air nrorn another

You will al、 vays need one of these docu― inents lor police registration when you take

SChengen COuntry(SuCh aS H01land)fOr which they require no visa and take a

a hotel room.

chance on not being checked on aniival.In spite of the open borders i)。 licy,however,

Visas

the chances of slipping through Canary

For visits of up to 90 days, nationals of

lsiands airports undctccted are not high,as there are no scparatc channels for Schcngcn

many countrics rcquire no visa at all.Those

who do need a visa cal ind the process of

nights.′ 「 he authorities will not hesitatc t。

acquiring one a litle irritating.With the im‐

deport you whence you carne should they

plelmenmtion of the Schengen Agreelment

catch you.

in April 1 995,the situation has,ifanything,

become nlorc confusing. spain,a10ng with POrtugal,Italy,France,

Types of Schengen

ヽ ′ isa There are

several types of Schcngen visa. Various

Facts for the Visitor―

transit visas allow you to cross the Schen‐ gen Area in order to reach a non― Schengen

´ country. hey will be of nO use to thOse I｀

hcading directly for the Canary lsiands. (:)f interest to travellers are the 30-day

and 90‐ day visas. In London they cost

UK￡ 17.75 and UK￡ 21.30 rcspectively

Visas&I Documcnts 49

idencc.An■ .yoursclf with lots of photo― copies of work contracts, passpo■ pages, bank statements and passport‐ size photos. YOu Will haVC tO gO the ιο″おα″″ (p。 liCe HQ)。 f the tOWn yOu intend tO Stay in― count on inaking scveral visits. ´ he sanle goes lor other nationals in the I｀

(single entry into the Schengen area).A90‐ day ntultiple‐ cntry visa costs I:JK￡ 24.85. ｀ 子 ツ ou arc allo、 ved to apply fOr only One 90‐

Canary lsiands with work contracts or on

day visa of either type in any six― month

consulate in your present country of resi‐

perlod. ｀ Yiou nccd to flll in an application folTn

dence.Non‐ EU spouses of EU citizens

and provide lour passport‐ sizc photos. If you arc rcsidcnt in thc countiy wherc you

apply and do so in person, thc process should take between 24 and 48 hours(never

Sanle day). IPOStal appliCatiOnS ShOuld include a seli■ addressed enve10pe stanlped

for registered inail and can take up tO a rnonth.下 ou rnay also be asked fbr proof of Yζ

solvcncy.

If you apply for the visa in a country whcre you are″ ο′resident,the lprocess can 4our request inay be for、′ be lengthy. ｀ セ arded to Madrid (mainiand Spain), and a reply could takc wecks.In addition,you inay be asked to presenttickets lor on、

vard or rcturll

nights, cvidence of hotel accornrnodation and solvcnc"Or cvcn an invitation■ oln solmcone in Spain.Finally,itis unlikcly you will be given the option ofthe 90_day,● lul‐ tiplc― entry

visa.

study prograrns.In inost cases the initial ap‐

plication has to be made at the Spanish

resident in Spain can al)ply lor residencc ・ too. 「 he process is lengthy, and those needing to travcl in and out ofthe country in the lmeantirne should ask for an`χ ′″ε′ グονおαdο (ViSa CXemptiOn).In mOSt CaSeS, `″ the spouse is obliged to make the fonnal ap― plicatiOn in his or her countiう ′Of residencc. A real pain. ・ ravellers wishing sirnply to extend their tourist visa can apply at thcir local cο ″′ s‐ I｀

α″ ,but don't count on being successful. `α

Photocoples

｀ iou'd be wisc to keep photocopics ofallthe ピ data pages of your passport and any other identit)′ cards,and even yOur birth celni■ _ cate if you can manage it.This will hclp speed up rcplaccincnt if they are lost or stolen. lf your passport does go astray, nOtiい he"liCe and Obtain a Statement,and then contact yOur enlbassy or consulate as soon as possible.

Visa Extensions&Residence Nationals

Other worthwhile things to photocopy

of EU countries,as well as iNonvay and lccland,can enter and leave the(Canary

include airline tickets,travel‐ insurance doc‐

ISlandS(and the reSt OfSpain)at Wi‖ .ThOSe wanting to rcsidc and、 vork on Spanish ter― ritory fOr iongcr than 90 days can apply ft)r

rnediCal― aid nunnbCrS,Credit CardS(and in‐

unncnts

with

enlergency

international

ternatiOnal Card‐ 10SS phOnC nurnberS), driver's licencc,vchicle docurnentation and

a′ ′′″,Is。 ′′′asia。 ″ι′ α during the irst

any ernployrnent or educational qualinca_

inonth of their stay.The bureaucracy in―

tions you lllay need if you are considering

volved in getting the residence pen・ nit can be trying,although nOt nearly as rnuch as in

work or study. Keep this, and the serial numbers of your travellers cheques, sepa‐

prc‐ EU

days.Ylou will nccd a work contract

rate frOnl the OriginalS,and lCaVe COF)ies of

in the Canary ISiandS Or the lFlainland

an this stuffwith somconc reliablc a home.

and/。 r pr。 。f of adequate ninds to suppo11:

yourself. With the fornler, thc l)rocess is

long but the outcome assuК d.Your′ α ′ α ヴ′ ′￨`″′ sfグ ″ 。′ αentitles you to nve years'res_ ￨′

Some spare cash tucked away into a rnoney belt,stufiFed into a pair of socks or other、 ′ ise conccaled could corne in handy if yOu lose your wallet or purse.

50 Facts for thc Visitor―

Embassies

Travel insurance

student and budget travel ofnces,including

lrlou rnay never need travel insurance, but you'1l be glad you'vc got it if you gct into trouble.1｀ hese papers,and the international medical‐ aid numbers that generally accorn―

thc following:

pany them,are valuable docunlents,so treat them like air tickets and passpo■ ls. Iく ccp the detaliS(phOtOCOpieS Or hand― Written)in a separate part of your luggage.For inore details,sce the Hcalth section below and the Ge■ ing There 2セ ,AIway chapte■

Australia

Studcnt Services Australia - lst Floo■ 20

Faraday St,Carlton 3053(1● '03-93481777)

Canada Travel Cuts-187 Co‖ ege St,Toronto(●

416‐

9773703) Voyages Campus― Universit6 McGi‖ ,3480 Ruc McTavish,Mont“ al(● 514-3980647)

UK

Cards are bcst obtained iom STA and Campus

ving Licence&iViehicle lPapers EU licences(pink or pink and green)arc

Travel ofnces― see Air in the Gctting Thcrc& A、 vay chaptcr

D

recognised in the Canary lsiands. C)ther foreign licences should be accompanied by

USA

CIEE-205 East 42nd St,New York(●

an I■ emational Driving Permit(in practice,

1093 Broxton Ave,Los Angeles(●

your own driving licence will more on‐ en than not sufice)availablc■ 。m automobne

clubs in your country and valid for 12 ■lonths. Ifyou happen to be chugging around the

isiands in your own vehicle, you will require its registration papers and an lnter‐

national lnsurance Certincate(or Green Card).YOur third‐ pany insurance cOmpany will issue this.For funher details,sce the Car& Motorcycle section in the(Ge■ ing

212‐

661 1414) 213‐ 208

3551) 312 Sutter St,San Francisco(● 415‐ 4213473) ′ I｀

here are also similar cards for teachers

(ITIC).They are goOd fOr VariOuS diSCOuntS and alSO Carry a traVel‐ inSuranCe COrnpO‐ nent. Ifyou're aged under 26 ycars old but not

a student you can apply lor a FIYTO(Fed‐ ´

eration of lnternational Youth ravel C)rganisations)card or Euroく 26 card(in I・

There&Away chaptcr

Spain alSO knOWn aS the Carnet JoVen),

Hostel Card

which give inuch the savlle discounts as ISIC.

lf you despcratcly want to stay in thc isiands'only HI youth hostel,you'1l need a

Thc hcad ofncc ofFIYTO,isin D,cnmark, at lsiands Brygge 81, I)K-2300 Copen‐

valid HI card.lYlou can gct the card in your ho)nlc countl1/,orthe hostcl can issuc onc on thc spot.C)thcl,vise,the・「 IVE youth travel

hagcn S,whcrc you can writc to rcquest a brochurc. C)thcri″ isc, thc organisations

Palmas de lGran Canaria and iLa lLaguna

hostelling organisations and some youth― traVel agenCieS(1lke CampuS TraVCl in the UK).They don't always entitle you to dis‐

organisation, which has ofaces in Las

(Tenerit),Can iSSue One tO fOreignerS fOr 1800 ptas.

listed above will issue the cards. 13oth cards are issued by student unions,

counts, but you won't ind out until you

Student,Teacher&Ylouth Cards

nash thc card.

An ISIC(International Student ldentity

In thc Canary lsiands,TIVE issucs ISIC

Card)Or Similar Card Will gCt yOu diSCOunt‐

cards for 700 ptas and the Euroく 26 1or 1000

ed entry into sorne rnuscurns and other

ptas. Addresses appear under appropriate

sights,and can be an asset in the search for cheap nights Out ofthc cainaries.It can als。

city entries in the course ofthe guide.

come in handy lor such things as cinernas,

EMBASSIES

theatrcs and other travcl(1lscounts.

Span:sh lEmbass:es

The cards are avallablc from inany

l―

lcrc follows a list of Spanish cmbassies in

Factsお r a selection of countries thrOughout the Algcria 02‐ 716993/65/66)

46 Ruc Azil Ali,Algicrs(●

Argentina Mariscal Rain6n Castilla 2720,1425 Buenos Aires(● 01-8026031/2) Australia

15 Arkana St, Yarraluinla, Canbcrra 2600,

ACT(● 02-62733555,02-6273918)i COn― sulatcs in Sydney andヽ lelbourne Brazil SES― Av des Na9ocs, 44, 70429-900 Brasilia

DF(● 061-2442776,2442023) Canada 74 Stanlcy Avenue,Ottawa(Ontario)KlM IP4(‐ 613-7472252/7477293);COnsu!atcs in Toronto and Montreal France 22 Avenuc Marccau, 7538 1 1Paris,(3edex 08 (● 1‐ 44431800/53);consulatcs in Marsci‖ c, layonne, Hendaye, Pau and other regional 1∃

cities

Schlosssti 4,53115 1Bonn(● 0228-217094/5) Ireland

17A Mcrlyn Park, Balls Bridge, ID)ublin 4

01-2691640/2597)

Morocco

105 Ave A‖ al ben Abde‖ ah, 3 Zankat

Madnine,Rabat(1口 .07-707600,707980)

Netherlands Lange ヽioorhout 50, 2514 EG The iHague

3643814/5/6)

Rua do Salitre l, 1296 Lisboa Codcx(●

01‐

347 2381/2/3/4); COnsulates in Pono and Valcn9a do Minho

COnSulateS in the Canary ISlandS (See be10W).

A!geria

914416065)

Cane del Genera1 0r`a12(● Argcntina

915622800)

Calle de Pcdro de Valdivia 21(●

Consulate:Ca‖ e de Jos6()nega y Gasset 62 (●

914025115)

Austra‖ a

Plaza dcl Cubridor Dicgo Ordis 3(● 91441

9300) Canada

914314300)

22 Avcnuc Dr Erncst Conseil,Cit6 Jardin, 2001´ 「 unis(● 01-280613,281539)

UK

Emba,sy:39 Chcsham Placc,London Sヽ 8SB(● 0171-2355555) Consulates:201)rayco■

Fmncc

Calle de Salustiano()lozaga 9(●

VIX

Placc,London SW3

0171‐ 5898989)

Suite l A,Brooks House,70 Spring Gardens,

Manchcster M2 2BQ(●

9143555

60) Gerirlany Calle de Fortuny 8(■ 915579000) Ireland Ca■ e de Claudio Coello 73(● 915763500)

91 57765 29)

Consulate: Callc de Agustin Bethencourt l (‐

915346909)

Morocco

12)

New Zcaland Plaza de la Lealtad 2(●

unisia

2RZ(●

located in Madrid.Sorne of these are listed

here.A handfbl of countries also rnaintain

(:)alle de Serrano 179 (● ' 91 563 10 90) Consulatci Callc dc Lcizaran 31(● 9156189

Portugal

I｀

Most countries have diplonnatic rcprcscnta― tion in Spain,but all tlle nlain enlbassies are

Cane dc Lagasca 98(●

represented in Australia

´

Foreign Embassies in lSpain

Italy

Ncw Zealand

(■ 070‐

hicago,Mianli and othcr cities

Cane de Nuiez de Balboa 35(●

Gennany

(●

Embassies 51

New Yiork, Los Angeles, San Francisco, (:〕

worid:

the Visitor―

0161-2361233)

63 North Castic St, Edinburgh EH2 3LJ (奮 0131‐ 2201843)

USA

2375 Pcnnsylvania Avenue,1ヽ IWヽ Viashington,

DC 20037(● 202-4520100);COnsulates in

915230226)

POnugal Caile dc Castcllo 128(■ .91 561 78 00) Consulate:

Pasco dcl (3cncral

Camp)s ll(●

914454600)

South A■ ica Calle de Claudio Coello 91(●

´ 「 unisia Piaza dc A:onso Manincz 3(■

UK

Martincz

914356688)

914473508)

Ca‖ e dc Fcmando cl Santo 16(●

9131902

00)Z Consulatei Calle del Marqu6s lEnscnada 16 (‐

USA

913102944)

Ca‖ e de Serrano 7(●

915774000)

52 Facts for the Visitor―

Customs

Foreign Consu:ates in Las Palrnas de

Cran Canaria

custorns channeis, not thc blue EU‐ channcl.

only

Countries with consular rcprcsentation in Las Palinas de Gran Canaria include:

MONEY

France

A cornbination of travcllers chcqucs and credit cards is the best way to take your

Cal:c de N`stor de la・「 oITe 12 (●

inoncy.

928292371)

Germany Cane de Jos6 Franchy Roca 5(●

928491880)

Italy

Ca‖ c de Le6n y Casti‖ o281-283 (●

928241911)

Morocco Avenida de Jos`Mcsa y lL6pcz 8 (●

Hidalgo 3(●

Ca‖ e de Luis Morote 6(●

USA (:〕

928233144)

928262508)

alle de Martinez de Escobar 3

(●

in the plural siang as pelas and afFection‐ ately to some expats as`potatoes'.The legal denonlinationsを rc coins of one, ■ve, 10,

1000,2000,5000 1and 10,000 ptas.

Po■ ugal

Cane deAlejandЮ

Spain'S CurCnCy iS the pCSCta(ptり ,knOWn

25,50,100,200 and 500 ptas,and notes of

928262859)

UK

Currency

928222552)

A ive ptas coin is widely known as a グ″″ ο,and it's fairly cornrnon for srnali surns to be quoted ー in(luros:`」 lο s`′″οs lor 10 ptas, “ ′ ′ ´ cF″ cο (グッ οs lor 25 ptas,evenッ ιグレ初 `″

for 100 ptas.

When changing moncy, try to avoid being stuck with a bunch of 10,000 ptas

Foreign Consuiates in lSanta Cruz de

notes,as tlley can be difncult to change.

￢enerife Countrics with consular reprcsentation in

Exchange lRates

sanm crtz de Tenerife include:

encies of the developed worid can bc changed without problerns in any bank or

Francc

exchange ofice. Exchange rates nuctuatc

(:〕

alle de Jos6 Marfa de Ⅵ lla

(●

l

922232710)

and,like nlost currcncies,the peseta has iost

a lot of ground against the US dollar and

922245671)

Italy

UK sterling since early 1 997.

Ca‖ e dcl P‖ ar 27(●

922275709)

Australia

ASl

Canada

Piaza deヽ 4cyler 8(●

922286653)

France

CSl lFF

UK

CuSTOMS Although the Canary lsiands are a pa of Spain, for customs purposcs tihey are not consideFd patt ofthe EU(thc samc is tnlc,

Gennany

DMl

Japan

¥100

New Zealand Portugal

UK USA

NZSl 100S00 tJI【

￡1

USSl

Ｓａ Ｓ Ｓ嬌 應誂幅ｔ ａ ａ ｔ應應ｔ

Ireland Ca‖ e dcl Casti‖ o8(●

(1)url・

for instance,of thc iChannel lsiands in the

UK).For this reason,you arc a‖ owcd to

Costs

bring in ortake outa maximum duty tec of 2L of still wine,lL of spirits(or 2L offor‐

IE)aily living cxpenscs in the Canary lsiands are inarginally lower than those in IEurope.

tined wine),60ml ofperime,50ml of`α ″

Although the islands are not a standard

″′ゎ′ た′ ′ ′,200 cigarettes and a maximum of UK￡ 145(or equivalent in other curcn― cies)。 f other g。 。ds and gins.

backpacker destination,a prudent traveller rnight get by on around 6000 ptas a day― sharing roorns in thc chcapest′ ι′ ″ 'Siο `s and apa■ mcnts,cating onc siinple restau‐ rant ineal a day,■ laking sandwiches for

When returning to an EU country:針 oin thc Canaries,you nlust use the green or red

Facts for thc Visitor―

Money 53

lunch, and travclling s10、 vly by bus and

way around this is to lhook up with another

try(planeS W‖ i bum big holeS in yOur

traveller.

｀ou can save a fe、v pcsetas on long dis‐

poCketS).

A breakdown ofaverage costs per person per day atthis icvcl mittt be:1500 ptasお r a bed in a double Ю om(3000 ptasお rtwo);

500 ptas br brcakfttt Guicc,comcc and a sα ″ わ た力″″′ ο― toasted ham and cheese sandwich);500‐ 1000 ptas for lunch(make

Yζ

mnce mall by sending acЮ grammes instead

Of Sundad leters Or pOstcards(thiS dOeS not apply to letters under 20g postcd to Europc). In nlany caf6s it is up to 20%chcapcr if you stand atthe counter,although this is not

it yourse11);up to 2000 ptas lor dinner;and the rest on transport, the occasional sight

a set rule.

and a couple ofquick bccrs.Luckily,sights lor which you pay arc fcw On thc ground, although onc‐ tirnc splurges such as the

food and travel costs can be found in the Accominodation and Food scctions of this chaptcr and in the Getting Around chaptci

More inforrnation on accornrnodation,

cable car up the′ reide n10untain On・ Ilener_

ife(2100 ptas)canヽ "7reak havoc with your daily calculations if you are sailing this

Carrying Money

close to the wind.´「 henic and anluscmcnt parks arc all pricey,and your costs will also

as cash, and the bulk in rnore casily rc‐

rise if you want to go on boat excursions

could up your dally hotel allowance to 3000

or plastic. lf your accornrnodation has a safe,use it.If you must leave nloney and docurncnts in yollr room,dividc thc■ )rnler into stashcs and hidc thcrn in diIIlerent placcs. Iン ockable luggagc is a good deter―

ptas or cven 4000 ptas,include a fcw days'

rent.

Car hi“ (Say an aVerage three dayS per Week

Of traVel tiinC)and COnSider haVing a

On the streets,especially in the cities and big resort areas,keep as little on you as nec‐

modest sit dovソ n lunch as well as your cvcn‐

cssary.The safest thing is a shoulder wallet

ing meal. IfmOnCy iS n0 0bieCt,the Sky'S the limit.

or under―

1`4ou can easily spcn(1 5000 ptas or nlorc pcr

tion to your bclongings;if you eschew the use ofany such device,keep inoney in your ′lο ″′ ροσたιお and WatCh Out fOr peOple WhO seem to brush ciose to you― there is an in‐ inite nunlber oftricks cmployed by tcams of delinquents,whercby onc distracts your

and the likc.

A more comfortablc budget would be 10,000 to 15,000 ptas a day.With this you

person on accornrnodation,and nloderate to expensive restaurants can start coming in at

5000 ptas a head. Flying between the islands is expcnsive (sec the Gctting Around chaptcr fbr details)but enol■ Tlously

tirne_saving, and with a nree_and_easy 、 vallet you can let yourself go in the nightlinc hot spots ofthe main res。 ■s.

Iく

eep only a liinited arnount ofyour rnoney

placeable forins such as travellers cheques

I〕

tllc‐

ciothcs inoney belt or pouch.

xterllal nloncy belts tend to attract atten‐

a慣 lention

and the other del:ly cnlptics your

pockcts.

Cash

Cost‐ Savers You'1l save a little inoney by avoiding the pcak tourist scason in IDecern‐

Even if you're using a credit card you'11 nlake nlost ofyour purchascs with cash,so

ber to Fcbruary,when prices tend to sneak

you need to carry sorne all the tilne.()bvi―

upWardS(and WhCn yOur ChOiCC Of Cheap aCCOmmOdatiOn may be limitCd).

ously you don't wantto carry to()nluch,but bearin mind that you generally reduce your

Singlc occtlpancy of rooms almost

ovcrali servicc charges for exchange by

always costs inorc per pcrson than doubles,

Changing largCr an10untS in One hit(thiS applieS:nainly tO traVellCrS ChequeS)― SO there nlay be times when you have nlore on

triples ctc. In rnany of the cheapest ρ′″― sノ ο ′′s you are charged for a double roorn even if there is only one of you.´ 「 he only

you than you'd like.

54 Facts for the Visitor―

Money

I:)on't bring holiday■ lnds in your hOme country's cash ― if you lose it yOu're

Card)iS the SimpleSt Way tO OrganiSe yOur

smtted. Buying a tw pesetas before you cOme tO the Cana es w‖ i save you a bit Oftime and

or cheques to losc,you can getlnOncy after

hassie on alTival and yOu Often gct a beter rate on the peseL at hOme.Tha said,it isn't neccssary, as changing on arrival is pretty stttightお wvard.

You can change leftover ipesetas back into your currency, cither on returning homc or before you lcavc―

you will get a nlarginally beter rate ifyou change back on

Spanish telritory.Try not to be stuck with coins as they generally cannOt be changed.

funds.11lou don't have large amounts Ofcash

hours and on weekends,and the exchange rate is good ifnot always the absolute bcst. IBIy arranging lor payrnents tO be nlade into your card account while you are travelling, yOu can avoid paying interest.

Maor credit/debit cards,such as Visa, MasterCard,Eurocard,Cirnls,Plus,IDincrs Club,JCB,America1l Express,Citibank and Eurocheques cards,are widely acceptcd. ´ 「 hese cards can be used for rnany pur‐

ChaSeS(inCluding in SOme SuperrnarketS) and in l10teiS and reStaurantS(althOugh sinaller establishinents tend tO accept cash

Travellers Cheques

・ 「 hese are sal■ )and casily cashed at banks

uま Outthe Canary lsiands. Always "OfiCeSkeep thЮthc bank receipt and eXCh額

listing the cheque numbcrs separate florn the cheques and keep a list ofthe nurnbers ofthOse yOu have already cashed― this will reduce problerns in the event Of 10ss Or the■ .Chcck the cOnditiOns applying tO such

Only).CardS Can alSO bC uSed in autOmatiC temng machines(ATMs― or ε″′´οs α″_ ′ ο″´′ ′ εοS in SpaniSh) diSplaying the appropriate sign oL if you have nO persOn_ al identincation nuinber(PIN), to obtain

cash advances over the cOunter in nlany banks.Visa and MasterCard arc anlong the lllost widely recognised for such transac―

circurnstances beforc buying the chequcs.

tions.Check charges with yOur bank,but as aI・ule there iS nOne fOr purChaSeS On m`り Or

If your travellcrs chcques are in lpcsctas,

cards and a l.5%charge on cash advances

you should pay no cxchange chargc when

and Al｀ M transactions in foreign currencies.

cashingi thern. Most hard currencies are

C)ccasiona‖ y you rnay corne across ATMs which dOn't accept yOur card Or,rarely,that

widely accepted,although you may have trouble with the New Zealand donar. 13uying cheques in a third currency(such as

US dollars if you arc not coining■ Om the

USA),means you pay cxchange charges twice;whcn you buy the cheques and again whcn cashillg thcm. (1)ct inost of your chcques in fairly large

denOrninatiOnS(thC equiValent Of 10,000 ptaS Or mOre)tO SaVe On any per― ChequC comnlission charges.

American lExpress exchange Ofnces chargc no comrnissiOn tO change travellers

don't work a an.Cad― cating ATMs are as rare in the Canary lsiands as anywherc. Don't expect to■ nd a h01c in the wall in evcry village you visit― always stock up On money in thc rnain towns. (:)heck with your card's issuer befOre yOu

leavc home on hOw widely usable your card wili be, on how to repo■ a lost card, On daily or、veekly withdrawa1/spending limits,

and on whether your PIN wili be acceptable (some European ATMs don't∝ cept PINs of mOrC thanお ur digitS)・ IfyOu think yOu m響

chcqucs(even other brands).For American Express travcllers cheque rcnュ nds you can

go over your crcdit liinit、 vhile away,yOu

call● 900994426,a Spain‐ widc nurnber. ′ Ihke along your passpo■ when you gO tO

you leave to give you access tO extra ttnds.

cash travellers cheques. Credit′ Debit

Cards&ATMs

Carwing plaStiC(WhCthCr a C“ dit Or debit

can makc a depositinto your accOunt befOre Arnerican lExprcss is also widely accepted (although not as common as Visa or Mas―

tcrCard).American Express card holders can sonnetimes get cash or at lcast travellers

cheques― up tO variOus maximums de‐

Facts for the Visitor一

Money 55

pending on the type of card-1ヒ orn Ameri‐

naries,in Las Palinas dc Gran Canaria,

can Exprcss ofnccs(in Gran Canaria,

while Ⅵbstenl Union is a littlc morc widcly rcprcscntcd lncluding by branchcs ofMail

Tcncrit and Lanzarote)by writing a per‐

sonal cheque drawn on thcir honlc bank aCCOunt(CheCk thiS With yOur bank befOre lCaVing hOme). If you can,take inorc than one card and

Boxes Etc).To send sums ofup to USS400, the sender is chargcd USS20.´「 hc nloncy can supposedly be handed over to the re‐

try to keep thenl separate in case One is iOst

cipient within 10 nlinutes Ofbcing sent. To set up a transferthrough a bank,cither

or stolen.Arnerican lExpress cards tend to

get advicc fiOnl the bank at honte on a suit‐

be the easicst to rcplace―

you can call● 91

572 03 03 or 91 572 03 20(in Madrid)at

able piCk― up bank in the Canary ISiandS,Or

check with a local bank on how to organise

any time.Othcr cards may not be replace‐

it.ヽ 4ou'1l

able until you get home,but you rnust rep。 ■

details ofthe Canary lslands bank branch―

need to letthe sender have precise

their ioss straight away. You can rcport

its nanle,lull address,city and any contact

Visa,IMasterCard or Access ioss on,91

or code nulllbers required. It's probably

435 30 40 or 91 519 21 00(Madrid).For

casiest to have thc money sent in pesctas. A bank‐ to‐ bank telegraphic transfer typi‐ cally costs the equivalcnt of about 3000 or

Diners Club card iosses call奮

91474000

(Madrid).Eurocard loss can be reponed on ● 915196000.

4000 ptas and should takc about a wcek to clear.

Electronic Money

It's also possible tO have rnOney sent by

The travcllcrs chcque may be on thc way

American Exprcss.

out. Visa now ofllers a new forrn of elec‐ tronic cash,a prepaid dispOsable credit card

Changing Money

known as Visa・ rravelMoney.｀ you buy the card lronl selected banks or travel agencies

(SuCh aS ThOmaS COOk)fOr amOuntS iOm UIく ￡100 to UK￡ 5000 and you arc issued with a PIN nurnben Note thatthere is a 2% coninlission.It works for ATM withdrawals ´ wherever the Visa sign is displayed. he irst four withdrawals arc ■ec.If yOu :「

haven't used up thc mOney by then,any subsequcnt withdrawal caries a UK￡ 1.50 te.Enquirc tt Thomas Cook or cali Visa

You can change cash or travellers chequcs at viltually any bank or exchange ofice. lr4ou'1l ind both at thc rnain air and sca ports. 13anks tcnd to officr the bcst rates,

with minor diftrences between them.The Canary lslands has a surfeit Ofbanks,many

with ATMs.They'"mostly open Monday to Friday■ om 8.30 am to 2 pm,and Satur― day仕 。in 9 am t。 lpm― thOugh sOine dOn't bothcr with Saturday opening.Froln May to thc end of Septenlber alnlost no banks will

before you travcl.

opcn on Saturday.

international Transfers

of foreigners yOu will alsO 16nd exchange of■ ces ― usually indicated by the wOrd ια ♭ο (cxchange).Genera‖ y they offer “ opening hOurs and quicker service ionger than banks,but worse exchange ratcs. Travcllers cheques gcnerally attract a

In resorts and cities which atract swanns

To have money transferred,Om anOther country,you need to organise someone to Send it tO yOu and a bank(Or a VVeStern Union or iMloneyGram money― transtr ofncc)in thc canary lslands where you can collect it. If thcrc's mOney in your banik account at horne, you nlay be able to in―

higller rate lof exchange than foreign cash, but this can be deceiving― oien corninis―

struct the bank yourseli

sion is charged on chequcs and nOne On

For inforination onヽ Viestenl Union scr_ vices, call frce on ‐ 900 63 36 33. For

cash.IRates offercd``ο vary marginally,par‐

MoneyGram,call● 900201010.The later only has one representativc in thc Ca‐

ticularly fiorn exchange boOth tO exchange booth,so shop arOund.

Wherever you change n10ney,ask abOut

56 Facts for the Visitor―

Post&Communications

cornmissions and conirm that exchange

ife are open Monday to Friday fi・

rates are as posted. Every bank seeins to

8 anlto 8.30 prn,and Saturday fiorn 9 ain to 2 pin.IMIost others open iom 8.30 am to 2.30 pmヽ 4onday to Friday,and 9.30 am to l pm on Saturday.

have a di∬ erent conlmissiOn structurei cOnl‐

rnissions may be different for travellers

cheques and cash,and may depend on hOw

om about

nlany cheques,or how rnuch in tOtal,yOu're

cashing.A,pical commission is 3%,with a minimum of300わ 500 ptas,but there are

Postal Rates A postcard or letter wcighing up to 20g

places with a minimum Of 1000 and solmc‐

costs 70 ptas to other Europcan countries, 115 ptas to North America,and 185 ptas to

times 2000 ptas.Those that advenise`no conl:nission'may offer poorer exchange

Australia,Nc、 v Zealand or Asia.Three A4

Tipping&Bargaining

sheets in an air-lmail cnvelopc weigh less than 20g. Aerogranllmes cost 85 ptas rcgardless of

ln restaurants,the law requires rnenu prices

the dcstination.

to include service charge,and tipping is a nlatler of personal choicc ― rnost peoplc

Carr′ οαdο (rCgiStCrCd ma■ )COStS an cxtra 175 ptas for internationai nlail. g′ ″た seivice,which means your le■ er υ″

rates.

leave sorne snlall change if they're satis―

■ed,and 5%is usually plenty.It's cornrnon to leave slllall change at bar and caf6 tables.

The only places where you nlight bargain

are marketS(althOugh eVen there fiXed priccs ae gencrany he rule)袖 d in some

nlay an・ ivc two orthrcc days faster,costs an extra 230 ptas for intcrnational nlail. ￨`(ou

can send mail both certincado and urgcnte lfyou wlsh.

Perhaps a (day or two quicker than

Taxes&Refunds

urgente service― but a lot rnorc cxpcnsivc ―is Postal Expr6s sen′ icc,somctimcs called Express Mail Sein′ icc(EMS).・ This is avail‐ able at nlost l)。 st onnccs and uses courier

T'he C'anary lsiands have a special tax

companies for international deliveries.

regirne se■ ing them apart ioin the rest of

Packages、 veighing up to lkg cost 3780 ptas to the other EU countries or Nol￢ ,vay,6300

chcap hoteis,particularly if you're staying

おra tw days.

Spain.On the inainiand,value‐ added tax (VAT)is known as IVA(′ ″P″ わ Sο b″ ′′

ptas to North America,and 8015 ptas to

“ ″′ ο″″ α″あ )and reaches 16%on retan goods. In the Canary ISiandS hOヽ VeVer, the equivalent is thc IGIC(′ ″″′asわ gO″ α α′ 」 ″″ ″ οゎ ″α″わ ).It is a nat rate 4.5%on `α retai1 800ds and serviccs, including hotel accoinmodation.Bcing so lolw,there is no

Australia or New Zealand.

tax_rcnlnd systenl fOr visitors.

normally takes up to a week; to No威 h

POST a COMMUNICAT:ONS shmps&Post orices

New Zealand up to two weeks.

Sending Mali lt'S quite Safe tO pOSt yOur Fnail in the yel10W StreCt―

pOStboXeS(b″Zο ″′∫)aS Well

as at post ofnces. Mailto othcr、 vestcrn European countries Amcrica allow up to 10 days;to Australia or

Starnps are sold at rnany newsagents and

Receiving Mail

various other stores displaying the ye1low―

I)elivery times are similar to those for out‐

on‐ brown

bound inail. Addresses in the Canary

sign 71″ :ら ″θ, as well as post

ofnces(。′

αs″ ω ′ ″。s).

lslands havc five― digit postcodcs, usc of

`f′ cities have quite a lot ofpost ofnces and ′ rnost villages havc at least onc. 「 he two main provincial post ofnces in I_.as Palrnas

qulcker.

de Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de Teneト

you at ′ ゴ s′α ′ ι ο″″ s anywhcre in the

which will hclp your mail arrive a bit Poste restante mail can bc addressed to ￨′

`ο

FaCtS fOr the ViSitOr―

POSt&COmmunications 57

Canary lslands that has a post ofnce.It will be delivered to the ciけ OrtOWn'S main pOSt onEce unless another one is specincd in the address.Tlake yOur passport when you go t。 pick up mail.It'saね irly“ liable system,aト

always ask the cost befbre using One.

though yOu must be prepared fOr mail to

as far as cheap phOne cans are concemed.

arrive latc.It helps ifpeople、 vriting tO yOu

Ylou can cxpect a thrcc― ininute pay phOne Or priVate‐ linc cali to cost around 30 ptas

capitalise or underlinc your surnanle, and includc the postcOdc.POstcOdes that appear in the cOurse Of this guide are g00d for pOSte reStante/1iSta de correos. A typical lista de c。 lTeOs address iooks like this:

Jane SMITH Lista de Coneos 35080 Las Pal:nas de Gran Canaria lsias Canarias

Spain

deal more expcnsive tllan strcet pay l)hones.

Management sct their own rates fOr these;

Cos"The Canary lsiands are nOt paadise

ヽ Vithin your local area; 80 ptas to othcr places in the sarnc Province; 190 ptas fiorn

one of the isiands' twO provinces to the other, or to lllainland Spanish provinces; 350 ptas to other EtJ countries;600 ptas to

North Anlerica;and l100 ptas to Australia. Calls are around 15,6 cheapcr bet、 veen 10 prn and 8 anl,and all day Sunday and hOli‐

days.To North America thcre is a`super reduced' rate bet、vecn 3 anl and 8 arn all

week. Anlerican IExprcss card or travellers cheque holders can use the flee client mail‐ h。 lding servicc at the four Canary lsiands branches

of American Express ofnces in Gran Canaria,Tenerifc and Larzarote.Takc your passpOrt when you go tO pick up mail. 市elephone ´

F'here is no sholl:age of the distinctive bluc

pay phones in the Canary lsiands.´

Dc)mestic(Calis iClanal曜 /1siands telephone numbers all begin with 9 and consist ofnine digitS.ThC nrStthrcc digits wc“ ,until April

1998,telcphone arca codes,but have since becoine incorpOrated into the nunlben SO phone numbers in the Canary lslands that begin with 928 are for the prOvince Of L′ as

Palmas(Gran Canaria,Fueneventura and

「 hey are casy tO use fbr intenlational and domestic

arc forthe province Ofsanta Cruz de′

calis. TriOu havc the option of using coins

it(Tenerit,La Gomera,La Palma,El

and/Or phOneCadS(″ ヴ′′ αS

rι ′ e″ ″たαs) and,in SOme CaSeS,Credit CardS(inCluding

LanZarOte),and those that begin with 922

Hierr。 ).HOWeVCr

Ilener‐

yOu muSt dial all nine

digits evcn if yOu are ringing next doOr.

Visa,American Express and Diners Club).

Mainland Spain phone nurnbers can be

PhOnecards come in 1000 and 2000 ptas de‐ no口 ninations and, like pOstage stamps,are sOld at post ofnces and as′ α″。。s. An altem■ ivc in sOme places,although bcing phascd out in favour of pay phones, is thc tclephonc ccntre.LIsually callcd a′ ο― rο ″ ′ ο,a telephOne centre has a nunlbcr of

■)und in any telephone directOry. ´

1lo speak to a dOnnestic operator,includ― dOmeStiC reVerSC‐ Charge(C011eCt) Calls within the(〕 anary lsiands and Spain, dial ● 1009.A revcrsc― charge call is″ ″α

ingお r

booths, wherc yOu dO yOur own dialling,

′ ′ α″αdα ′0″ σοb″ ο″ッθ′″″ο.For dircctory enquiries dia1 1' 1003;calis cost about 45 ptas iom a private phOnc but are■ ee,oin

then pay s011100ne sitting at a desk alRler―

a phonebox.

dOn'th"e enOu♪ COinS Or a Card,or ifpay phones arc in shOrt supply. ・ They also

internationai Ca:is・ I10 make aln interna‐ tional call dia1 15,07(this is duc to bccorne

`″

′ Wards. 「 hese places can bc useftll if yOu usually havc a good stOck oftelcphone di_

00 in April 1999,bringing Spain into line

reCtOrieS(g″ 力Sた ′ c力 ″たの).

with thc Юst ofme EU),waitお ra ncw di‐ alling tone,then dialthe countl)′ COde,area

Public ph()nes inside bars and caf6s,and PhOnes in hOtel roorns,are always a good

code and numbe■

58 Facts for the Visitor―

Post&Communications

You can place reverse‐ charge intcrna‐ 1005 br tiOnal cans through an operator(● Europc;● 1008偽 r■ e rcst ofthe world),

retrieve inessages ien;for you.´ hcre is n。 liinit on the length or number of rnessages ielR1lor you and yOu can keep or delctc thcrn

but it is much easier,and otten cheaper,to use the Count:γ IDirect service in your

as you wish during the tirne for which you haVe paidお r the SerViCe(WhiCh COStS iOm UK￡ 15 a month to UK￡ 75 a year).Obvi‐

country.lYζ ou dial the nurnber and request a

reverse‐ charge call through the operator in

your country. Nurnbers for this servicc

you hit the road!

０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９ ０ ０ ９

４３ ２ ２ １４ ７１ ６ １ ４ ４ １ ３ ２ ５ ５ ３ ９ ４２ １ ｌ ６ ４ ３ １ ４ ３ ４ ５７ ９ ８ Ｈ ｌ １ ３６ ４５ ４ ４ ４ ４ Ｈ ｌ １

０ ０ ９

USA (AT&T) USA (MCI) USA (Sprint)

０ ０ ９

UK(Mercury)

０ ０ ９

Swiヒ erl●ば lK(■ leCOm)

０ ０ ９

lea]

"測 n Swe“

０ ０ ９

P。

０ ０ ９

`= Now Z“ ["d No‐ 颯y

０ ０ ９

No● e,1● ●

０ ０ ９

nCD=) `DD)

D 「 Mo,ocα 'a"n(■

０ ０ ９

I饉 ly

Jap田

０ ０ ９

I,日ol

０ ０ ９

:"[md

０ ０ ９

I,`κ澪 Gern“ ny

０ ０ ９

C,■ ,13 1o■ mak

０ ０ ９

=

B`lg um

一 奮 ● ● ● 奮 一一 一 一 一 ● ● 一● 一一 ● ● ● ● ● 一 一一

A、 ド●a[1■

Jユ

ouSiy yOu pay fOr a 10ng diStanCe Call(Call CheapeSt rate),and yOu alSO haVe to lCt yOur

ioved ones know whatthe numberis before

include:

Aos

I「

Fax Most inain post ofnccs have a fax scrvice:

sending One pagc costs about 350 ptas within the Canary lslands and Spain, 900 ptas to clsewhere in iEurope,and 1700 to 2000 ptas to other countries. Hoヽ vever you'1l o食 len ind cheaper rates at shops or ofices with`Fax IPiblico'signs.

Emall a internet Access

・ 「 hose needing an cmail flx can try one of the few lnterllet caf6s in the isiands,or an

`Internet bureau'(01llen a 10CutOriO With computer terminals).Access O the lntemet generally costs 500 ptas per half hour.

Those travening with thcir own comput_ ers will nccd access to a phonc.Thc phone j¨ ks in the Canary lsiands are the standad

American style RJ‐ 1l varicty, making modem connection easy.Bc wary of plug‐ ging into hotel roonl phone outlets,as hotel

PABX phone systems can fry your modem and computer. Unless you have access to

1025.

one of the few international providers,you wi‖ nced b considerjoining a local sewicc fOr yOur"ay-lor most peoplc probably too

Calling the iCanary isiands frorn other

much hassic to worty about.CompuSelwe

Countries l｀ he countつ ′COde,as for Spain, is‐ 34.

as yct has nodes only in Madrid,Valencia and lBarcelona,which ineans inaking long

For international directory enquiries dial l'

distance calls to log on.

。icenlail could be an efincient v。)icelmall、 ´ 、 vay to kccp in touch with fricnds and

Te:egram

fainily.In London,′ rravcllers'Conncctions

hese dinosaurs can be sent nronl post Omces or dictatcd by phone(● 222000)

(●

0181-2863065;nctcomuk.co.uk/∼ trav‐

COnS)。 ftrS SuCh a SeWiCe・ It WOrkS like an answer phonc. You are allotted a lLondon

phone number and a PIN. Whenever you callthat number you can leave a greeting一 the:nessage can be aslong as you like―

and

′ Iヽ

and are an expcnsive but sure way of having iinponant tnessages delivcrcd by

lou can also send ピ the sarllc or next day. ｀ telcxes ilonl post ofnccs, but they are ex_ pensivc too.

Facts fOr the visitOr_lB00ks 59

BO● KS pl

Ыished″ di“ κnt

pub‐

liSheS in di壼 崚ent countries.A book might

ar

,inor comい mdE“ ilv avail‐

861c in another Bookshops and libranes “ 証ch by tine or au“ 。r,so yourloca b。 。k_ “ Or lib口 ,is be"plェ shop o“ vise yOu on a cen■ n boo■ 's av田 [abili,. “ While th●● is a wedth oflitnhre in Engiish, Spanish a d other iailguages on

SFl■ ,● e pickin,On●

eCm,Isl田 ム

are rather slinl.:!ldeed,olllLiide the isl:■ lds

it iS dimCult(O COme b'any● in3 much beSides… other pi“ 6oo應 .Except ior the`に ,most

of the ti」 es list“ ■澪:ow will 。●deal ofhunting a氣 ,und.

,cqutre a g。

Loi博 け Pi8■ Lonel)′ Planet “publishes a guide to Spain,

and a conFche‐ ive Spmish Phra“ b∞ k. TraV● 10口 '■ le3

ル aC′ ″ ヮ ■″″と,by Floに ne duCme, Canie Out in 191l and iS CLnning m。 飩, 腱 u∞ oFthc Fl面 ngs by E‖ 8“ Cme

Even “ b● 1。 wmd“ ing =e the du Canes w¨ r。皿 d●e iSlandS,OIⅣ ia S“ ne Ld pu● l｀ h“ 2″ ′ ′ ″ SiX Sa′ e″ ′ ag in ′ ″ `´ London in 1887. 'た Ano:her erly travener m the islmds ws

C臓 ,les

Pi″ 2iSmy●

pF“ SiOnS

r,SpeCia‖ Sed Work concentraung on

f

Most b∞ も なe

who“ colouriul im_

WaC"t“ Wnin 2″07:た ケ ′ ル

И″ ′″ ′ ′ α 2蛮 ″ И″り "g`″ `。 '々 “ C!ο ″ s in 1852. “ “

History&People

´ 「 hosc who do notrcad Spanish、 11l not ind a great deal around On the history Of the

16th.centuヮ

lifo in tie islallds. A classi`,

history written in 1764 is Ceorge Clas' Z鮨 ′ οッ グ Gα ′ ″ 力′ a. A ttrly `ル smight,orttrd “ summ".Of the

iSiandS.p"t iS″ ′ ,:ο ヮ ο み ′′

カ′′ 2s,by C “ o'Mκ

Jos`MC8“ naЮ

,′

ヮ

``αF,節 ‐ Cil田

vanous lmgl濾 by● eis Centr`de[a `osges Manin.It pubi she`in Cuttu=Popュ la Cmana ″′ C:`α as― S“ ″″り′ ″′ ル ″つ′_ "`力 ``″ κα″ ″s,bv J∝ ●e Fate of“ e `Luis isiands'■ に,ininbi● n` Concepci6n,loob He “ a[,。 ■.1。te a voluinc on custons.called C(,,`″ ″0ァ .2● ″た,ο ″ Go,館 ′,α ``oub‐ 1卜 h“｀n EngHぬ “ md Cermm). “

″ ′ 。,C“ α″ι″ ,測 thor et。 ― 3e● er■e pu21e of● e islmde●・ behels. Ma″ :′α ι ′ ″ι Ca滋 ッ る′ α S2血 ler Br(Wm,wお ist publi“ "a,"A in 1889 In Zα Rι′

Anonio Teien '′`″ Cぉ par at"mpts O “ pi∝

aS a proCll,ξ

or"●e

a lot of illl●

resung iFl

rchetypュ l tavel:er's

“a later guidebook l:ry to 8et a hold of edition of this booに も にcause there is cuite gЫy dated.matai―

」 in■ In ι′Ca″ a,7,2",Ale,andЮ CЮ ぬn6cu .

hs cOnccted texts by● e islands,initia Conquero、

, Jean de BcthencOun and

cadiftr de la sane.

A戯 For quite a conlprchensive review ofart and architecture, high and lov′ , in the isiands,

you might be interested in a series of

V01umcs entitled」 E'ノ И″ ′ ′′″CIク ″αガαs,pub― lished by La Bibliotcca Canaria.

Canary lsiands. Evcn those who do read

FIora&Fauna

Spanish will be underwhelmed by what's on

Budding bOtanists should check Out a series OfbrOChureS Called P′ α″rsこ F′ ο″ι ″ sQ/1¨

oflier.A quirky v01unle of at tirnes dubious

academic wOrth is Zα s ls′αs Cα ″α″:α s α 刀ηνιs`」θ ノ α″お′ ο″′ α, by salvador L6pez

(attaCh the name of whichever isiand

lerrCra and translatcd as 71カ ″α4ソ ぉ′ α″ぁ rヵ Ю″gヵ 〃Isゎ 7.Herrera` atempts “ to trace the story Ofthe《 uanchcs and then the Spanish cOnquest ofthc archipclagO.

a SeriCS Of(SurpriSe,Surprisc)walking

I‐

:〕

appealS tO yOu).The SerieS is published by E)iscOvery walking Guides,which alsO does guidCS tO all thc isiands bar lF'ucrtcventura.

In thc (〕

anar)′

Isiands thenlselvcs yOu

Felipe Fern`ndez― Al■ nest。 ,a leadingi au_ thority on the isiands'history,has produced

Should be able to track down numerOus

Zみ οCα ″α ツ

F′ ο

お′ α″あ И "ο

′″′Cο ″9ン ‐′ α,a

titles devoted tO the archipelag。 's nora. ″ s,″ ′ みιCα″α″ ア Is′ α″グs,by Juan ",′

60 Facts fOr the VisitOr-lnternct Resources

Albetllo Rodrigucz P`rez, is available in

English and German. s'G′ fa`ro rヵ ′ cα ″α,ァ И 3′ ″ ″″α′ Is′

`ヵ `′ Clarke and David Collins, α″αs,by TOny

is the perfect colmpanion for a pair of

Food

′ ″sげ ″a

αッ Cα ″

“ Fο ο こ Bι αク,ルレ強にぁ

countrieS/Spain),a SCarCh engine With linkS tO citics Ofthe worid,including inaps,sights and limitcd practical infornlation.

All ofthe isiands have Web sites devoted

skyward‐ pointed binoculars.

Pセ

For somc gencral travel hints,you could brOwsc through Excite City.Nct(city.ncυ

α″ あfИ ,7`, お′

by Ann&Larry

to touriSt infOnnatiOn(they Can all be traCed thrOugh the c〕 anarian lnternet Resourccs ヽ′ Cb Site).TOuriSt infOnn■ iOn On thC Ca‐

narics can also bc accessed through the

VValker, is “ one of the few introductions to

〈 :)overnrnent tourist ofice at spaintour.

canaries cuisine in English. Look at it

connノ canarias.htlll.A(]ernlan― language ser‐

before you go,as you are unlikely to want tO lug this hardback`vound with you.

vice ls on infocanarias.coin.

Morc po■ ablc,but available only in the Canaries,is a paperback volurnc by various

α 〃 ο Srグ Ca″ α authors calledル β ッ お′ ″g, Cο ο たノ

published by the Ccntro dc la

cuitura POpular C;anaria.Another possibil‐

′clα ′αり′c'ο οた,″ g,by ity is 2レ 7,:ο α

Jos6 Luis

(E)ompuScrve's SpaniSh Forurn has a data library lwhere you can ind infbrination on the Canary lsiands, or you can post mes‐ sages asking lor spccinc tips.

NElWSPAPERS&MAGAZ:NES Local Press

Ban・cra.

Thcre is no shortage of local rags in the ′ αs and Cα ― isiands. Zα (5'α ι α ′ ([:α ″α″ `′ thc most interesting, ′α″iαs 7 are pcrhaps ′ ′ ο ′'` cncrife‐ based D′ α″ although the Иッ′ sο s is also()K and providcs locallistings

INTERNET RESOURCES

and infornlation on air and sea timetablcs, ″as is its equiv‐ ′ 。αθιαs」 Pα ′ etc.′ rhe Dfα ″

C;Oncepclon. lf yOu get hOOked On″ ″ο,10。 k Out fOr ′ as,by Flora Lilia 7b′ s′ ο sル女 ォbs′￨`Cα ″α′ lο

Barrera Alaino and Dolores lHernindez

A scarch on kcy Words like`Canaria',`Ca―

lι

I・

alcnt on Gran Canaria.The isiandS'Spotting

narias'or`Canary lsiands'on any ofthe

joulmal is Jο ″ ″ν α.For the truly ″αdα D′ρο″

v up a

parochially inclincd, cach island gets its Own cdition ofι αls′α

standard search engines 、ill

thro、

plethOra Ofsitcs On thc wOrld Wide Web.As

usual,you haveto wadcthroutt m awillot ofdrossto ind anythinguscful,butsomein‐ teresting things are swimrning around out there.It、 vill be a help ifyou read Spanish,as

many sites arc in thisianguage only.

A key site is canarian lntemet Resources (CanaryWCb・ eS/)・ Here yOu'1l ind SeVeral hundred links to ali solts ofother sites cov‐

eringjust aboutthe whole gal■ ut of Canary lsiands― rclated SutteCtS.

If you want to gct an idca ofthc issues

that nlove Canarios, you can read daily

.

Spanish National PresS For a wider vicw on thc world,you can turn tO Spain's national press.´ 「 he main dailies can be identined along roughly political lines,with thc old‐ fashioned ИβC reprc― ′αFs senting the cOnservative right, E′ idcntined with the PSOE(Spain's centrc‐ lcn socialist party)and E′ iイン″dο a morc wing papcr that prides itsclfon radical,le食 ‐ breaking political scandals. For a good spread of national and intcr―

news from the Canaries on― line,havc a look at Canarias 7 0n step.cs/canarias7.

nationai news,E′ Pα お is the pick.Onc of ′ ,which is the best selling dailies is iイ

Astronolmy bu■ is wanting to know about thc latest galaxy‐ busting developrnents at

devoted cxclusively to sport.

the ObservatOries On TIcnerifc and La Palrna can h00k intO thc lnstituto de Astrogsica de

Canarias(IAC)Wicb site at i¨

.es.

lα

`α

Foreign・ Language Press ,α ′ ′ 0″ ― lnternational prcss such as the′ ″ra″ ″ Ⅳi`″ swaι た ′′ α′ グ rrめ ″″ α′ヵ【

`,77″ `and

,

FaCtS fOr he Visitor―

Radio 61

plus ratts of newspapers nrom all over westcrn Europe, reach maJOr citics and

C)anary lsiands inainly on 12,095 and

tourist arcas within a day Of publication.

can be found On variOus short‐ wave fie‐

15,485kHZ(Sho“

w∼ e).Voicc ofAmcrica

quenCieS, including 9700, 15,205 and

Locai Papers

´ 「 he big British and Gcnman presence in the isiands has icd to thc grO h of several ′ foreign_language rags. rhey include f′ ″ ′ α″グノ Vο ″ and ls′ α ″グC'ο ″″θι′ ′ ο″s in´ 「 ener‐ ife, and ls′ α″グ Sν ″, published in (〕 ran Canaria・ Ca″ αr」 α″ ″セ′た4)′ iS SuppOscdly lι

circulated in ali the isiands, but yOu'd be

lucky tO see it Outside the rnain tourist ´ centrcs. 「 he (]crmans can pick up the ′ ″b`み ′″siρ f′ g′ ′ . 「 hesc are all weckly Or

fortnightltt CalTy use■ 1l listings inforlmation

and OccasiOnally evcnjob adverts.

RADiO

´ rhe SpaniSh nationai network Radio Tヾ

a‐

cional de Espaia(RNE)has lour statiOns. RNE l,with general interest and current aFairs programs,and RNE 5,with sport and

entertainmcnt,are on AM(medium wave); RNE2,with classical music,and RNE 3(or `Radio d'Espop'),with adinirably varied

pOp and rOCk music,are on FM(VHF). Most listened to of all is the cOrnrnercial

pOp and rock FM station 40 Principales. ・ Broadcast ■ cquencies vary lronl place tO place_ ・ hcre is nO shOrtage of local radio sta‐ tions acrOss thc islands,rnOst Ofthern on the I｀

FM band― cvcn tiny lLa Gomcra has three

15,255kI‐ Iz,depending On the tirne of day.

Thc BBC and VOA broadcast fOr much of the day fionl about 5 anlto anler 9 prn,butthe reception quality● fluctuates cOnsiderably.

lV Most TVs rcceive ivc main channcls― two 彙Onl Spain's state― run Televisi6n Espaiola

(TVEl and La 2)and three independent (Antena 3,Tele S and Canal Plus).You may also be abic tO pick up 10cal channels,such

´ aS ・Ilenerife's Ileidevision (channe1 6)or TeleGC in Las Palmas.A govclmment― run TV statiOn for the entire archipelago was due tO bCgin t'ansmission in inid‐ 1998. Jews prOgrarns are generally dccent,and you can occasionally catch an interesting 1ヽ

dOCumentary Or ilm(100k Out fOr the Old English‐ languagc classics iate at night on

La 2).Othenvise thc mainね re is a rather nauSeating diet of soaps(many■ om Latin America),endless talk shows and almost VaudeVillian VttieW ShOWS(With plenty Of glitZ and near‐ nakCd titS).Canal PluS iS a

pay channcl dedicated mainly to rnovies: you need a decOder and subscription to see the n10vies,but anyone can、 vatch thc Other programs,such as news and sport.

Many private horncs and better hoteis

・ V. :Foreign channcls you haVe satellite 「

may colmc acrOss includc BBC WOrld

stations.

Reception quality varies cOnsiderably arOund the islands, and you may ind you can pick up Only a fe"′ stations clearly. Indeed, in the CXtreme north of La Palina

(mainly neWS and travel), BBC Prime (Other BBC programs),CN‐ N,Eurospo■ Sky News,Sky SpOrts,sky spOns 2,Sky MOVies, and the German SAT｀

,

1.Ainong

about all yOu can get is POttuguese broad‐

Spanish satellite channcls are I)ocurnenta

casts■ om Madeira!

and Canal Clisico,which have sorne good

In the main resOrt arcas you can alsO pick

docurnentarics and arts prOgrarns.

up 10Ca1 10reign ianguage radio. For in― stance,the lEnglish‐ language rnusic statiOn

Powcr Fヽ4 broadcasts on 91.2 FM in the Playa de las Arn6ricas area in sOuthern ´ ienerife. Oasis 101 FM is another Onc.

PHOTOGRAPHY&V:DEO F‖ m&Equipment

While on lG:ran(Clanaria,yOu can tllne into

A ron of36‐ exposure 100 ASA Kodak■ lm costs around 650 ptas.It costs up to 1700 ptas to have 36 exposures devcloped.A roll

Radio Maspalomas.

of36 Slides costs around 700 ptas and about

「

The BBCヽⅣOrid

Sen′ ice brOadcasts to the

the Same tO dcvelop and iame.All the

62 Facts for thc Visitor―

Timc

quality of proccssing is as good as any‐

yOur CaFnera haS a StabiliSer,yOu Can uSe it tO Iobtain good footagc while travellihg on

whcre.

various rneans of transport,evcn on burnpy

maior brands a“ avanable and generany the

Outlets where yOu Can buy■ lFnS and

roads.

Rerneinbcr― you'rc on holiday― don't let thc video take over your life and turn

havc your photos proccsscd are nuinerous. A roll of■ lm is most cornnlonly Called a ″ ι′ o but you will be understood ifyou ask `α for`■ lm'.Shop around a litlc,as ali sorts

yOurtrip intO a Cecil BI de Mille production.

of special ogiers crop up involving reduced

chargcd, and have the nccessary charger,

Make sure you keep thc batteries plugs and transforiner for the Canary

prOcessing costs, 6rec copies or enlarge‐ mcnts and so on.

lsiands.It is usually worth buying a few cattridges duty lree bcfore you stalt travel‐

Photography

ling.

Finally, rcmenlber to folloヽ v thc sanlc rulcs regarding peoplc's sensitivity as lor still photography― having a vidco Shovcd in their face is probably nlore annoying and Oflicnsive than a still camera.Ask pcr:nis‐

Light is thc key. As a gencral rule thc midday sun is for inad dogs and not pho‐ tOgraphcrs― it is harsh and will lend your snaps a washed,out iook. It follo、 vs that early and late in the day are the best times

tO shOOt.Use thc light's angle and shadows to effcct.A basic rule for straightfor、 vard shots is to have the light source behind you (but take CarC nOt tO get yOur OWn ShadO｀

V

sion irst.

If you wantto record or buy video tapes to play back horne,you won't get a picture ifthe iinage registration systcnls are differ‐

Vs in the()anary lsiands,and nearly recorded videos on salc here and in Spain,use thc PAL(phase altenlation line) system cOrnlnOn tO nlost of、 vestcrn Europe

cnt.′

in the ShOt!).

I｀

all prc‐

Video PrOperly uscd, a video carnera can give a fascinating recOrd Of yOur holiday.As wcll as vidcoing the obvious things― sunscts, spectacular vicws― rcmelriber to record sonlc of thc ordinary everyday details of

and Australia.France uses thc inCOFnpatiblC

SECAM system,and Nonh America and Japan use the incOmpatiblc NTSC systein. Plへ

L vidcos can't bc playcd back on a

lit in the islands.oncn the most intcrest‐ ing things occur when you're actually intcnt

machinc thtt lacks PAL capability.

On ilming sOmething else.Remember too

Airpo威 Security Ylour camera and

that,unlike still photography,video moves ―so,lor example,you can shoot scenes of the countryside rolling pastthe bus windo、 ″ ,

tO give an overall inlpression、 possible with ordinary photos.

vhich isn't

Video cameras thcse days have anlazing‐ ly sens ve microphoncs,and yOu miま t bC surprised hoW inuch sound you pick up. ・ his can be a problem if thcre is a lot of 「 ambient noisc― ■lming by the side of a

■lm Will be routinely passed through airport x‐ ray rnachincs. ´ 「 hese shouldn't dainage■ lin but you can

ask for inspection by hand if you're woll・

ied.Lcad pouches for■ lrn are another

solution.

TIME Like inost of Europe,the C)anaries operate on thc 24-hour clock which for tllose ac‐

busy road might sccm ()K、 vhen you do it,

custorned to `am'and`prn'can take sorne

but viewing it b¨ k home mitttsimply give

gctting uscd to.

you a dcafcning cacophony oftrafic noisc.

Thc canar)′ Islands are on Grccnwich

One good rulc for beginncrs to follow is to

mcan timc(GMT/UTC),plus an hour in

try to■ lm in long takes,without moving the

summerお r

cainera arOund tOO FnuCh.C)thel口 ″iSe yOur video could well rnake viewers seasick! If

dayli♪ t SaVing time,and thuS always an hour behind inainiand Spain.´ 「 he

isiands keep the same tiine as the UIく

,

Facts for the Visitor― Electricity 63

Ireland and iPortugal. Morocco is On

GMT/UTC yearround― sO in summcritis an hour behind thc canary lslands, cvcn though it's full:her east!

Daylight‐ saving(summer)time stans on

the last Sunday in March,when clocks are put forward one hOur.CIocks are iput back

an hour on the last Sunday in ()ctobe■ Ensurc that whcn telephoning honle you also rnake allowances for daylight‐ saving in

yOur Own country. E〕

ahead. When it's noon in Las Palrnas de ran Canaria,it's4anl in San Francisco,7

am in New Y10rk and´「 oronto,8 pnlin Pe■ h,

10 pnl in Sydney, and nlidnight in Auck‐ land.Note th■ summertime stan and inish dates in sOme cOuntries vary lronl thOse in thc Canary lsiands.

10r a Shirt and 550 ptasお r a simplc ski■ They will be very clcan and nicely foldcd, but hOw iOng dOes thatlast'

!

TOILETS Public tOilets are nottoo corninon and often little n10rc inviting.´ rhe casiest option is t。

wandcr intO a bar or caf6 and usc its toilct. ・ he polite thing tO do in this casc is havc a

COffce Or sOmething before or ailer, but you're unlikely to raise tOO inany eyebrows if you dOn't.Canう ′SOrnc toilet paper with you whcn Out and about as rnany tOiletsiack it.If there's a bin beside the loo,put paper etc in it― it's there bccause the 10cal sew‐ eragc systern cOuldn't cope OthcrⅥ 7ise.1‐ lcre

and there you'li still find hole_in_the― grOund squat toilets.

HEALTH The Canary lsiands are nOt exactly a haven

ELECTRiCiTY

´ I｀

ptaS tO haVe a pair oftrouscrs donc,450 1ptas

I｀

urOpean Cities such as Madrid, IBarce―

lona, Paris, Munich, 13erlin, Vienna and Ronle are an hour ahead of the Canaries. Athens,Cairo and・ rcl Aviv are two hOurs (:〕

nlay find yOurSeif paying as much as 600

he elcctric currcnt in thc Canary lsiands is

220V,50Hz and plugs have t、 vo rOund pins, like Spain and Continental Europc. TraVellcrs■ om the USA need a v。 ltage COnVerter(althOugh inany of the rnore ex―

pensive hOtels havc prOvision fOr l10V

for exOtic diseases,and the worst nlany vis_ itors pick up is an extended hangovcr fIOrn too much partying in the reso■ s.C)ther pO_ tential risks are sunburn,dchydratiOn,insect bites,Or rnild gut problerns at irst ifyou're not used to a 10t Of。 livc Oil.

applianCeS such as shavers).Make sure1/Ou

Predeparture Planning

bring plug adapters for your appliances.It is

immuniSations No jabs are norma‖ y

a g00d idea tO buy theSe bc/br′

leaVing

hoine as they are viltually irnpossible to get in the CanarieS・ If yOur apF)liancc's v01tagc

iS thC Sanle, all you'1l need is a:Europcan plug toint onto the one you,ve brought with

you nrom horne.

WE:GHTS&MEASURES Thc metric system applies in the Canary lslands.Scc the cOnversion table atthe back

nceded to visit thc([〕 anary lsiands,but the story lnay be diffcrent if yOu're corning

iom an intcted arca― yc‖ ow iveris thc most likely One.You can check、 vith yOur travel agent Or Spanish embassy. A few rOutinc vaccinatiOns are rccorn― mendcd whether yOu'rc travelling or not. ・ hey includc p。 lio,tctanus and diphtheria, 「 and sornetinles nleasies,nlunlps and rubella

COrnrnaS and thOuSandS with points. You

(German mcasles).Allthesc arc usua‖ y ad‐ rninistered in childhOOd,but sOrne require later booster shots.For dctalis,check with

ヽ Vill SOrnetirneS SCC yearsヽ ″ritten as l.997.

your doctor or nearest health agcncy.

LAUNDRY

an interllational Hcalth clertincatc,which is

Scliscrvice laundrettes arc extrcinely rarc.

available lronl yOur physician or govern_

Sma11 laundrieS(′ αツα″グ′″Fα s)are Lirly ア COnlmon but not particularly chcap. ヽOu

nlight consider befOre travelling are:

of this book.Dccimals arc indicated with

All vaccinations should be recOrdcd On

ment health dcpartmcnt.Among those yOu

64 Facts for the Visitor―

Health

Hepatitis A The most common travel― acquired iliness a■ cr di`rrhoca,which can put you outof actiOn it,r、 vecks.I‐ Iavrix 1440 is a vaccination

that provides :ong― ternl iininunity (pOSSibly morc than lo ycars)aner an initial in」 ection and a bOOster at six to 12 months. (〕

arnrna giobulin is not a vaccination but a

ready― rnade antibody collected iloin blood do‐

nations.It should be given close tO depanure because,depending on the dose,it only protects for t、 vo

vn national health sys‐ `our oν teni nlay reinlburse these costs.

An Elll is no good,hoWeVer,for private rnedical consultations or treatrnent in the Canary lslands,which includes viltually all dentistsi and some of the bctter clinics and

surgcrics.If you、vant to avoid paying for thcse,you'1l nced adcquate incdical as wcll

as then and loss insurance On your travel policy.

to six nlonths.

Hopatitis B This dise`se is sprcad by blood or by sexual activity.Travellers who should consid‐

cr a hepatitis B vaccination inc11lde thosc visiting countries wherc there are k■

procedurcs.ヽ

omito be

many carriers,wher blood transttsions may not be adequate!y scteened or where sexua! contact is a possibility.It involves three inJec―

tions, the quickest course being over three weeks with a booster at 12 inonths. Diphtheria&Tietanus l)iphtheria can be a fatal throat infection and tctanus can be a fatal

wound infection. All travellers should havc these vaccinations.Aner an initial course of three injections,い osters are nccessary every 10 years.

Po:io Polio is a serious and easi!y transinitted disease, still prevalcnt in inany developing

countries. Evcryone should keep up to date with this vaccination.A booster every 10 years maintains irnmunity: Vellow Feverヽ lellow fbver is the only vaccine legally required lor entry into niany countries,

altllough usually only enforced When corning nroin an infected area.Protection lasts 10 years

and is recorninended where the disease is

In Britain,Ellls are issucd■ ce by post ofnces;all yOu need tO supply is your naine,

address,date of bitth 2md National lnsur‐ ancc nurnbcr. In othcr lEU countries ask your doctor or health scrvice how to getthe

おm. Most, but not all, US health insurance policics stay in efiect,at least for a limited

period, if you travel abroad.(1)n the other

hand, inOst other non‐ European national health plans don't, so you rnust take out special rnedical as wcll as theft and loss in‐

surancc.

A wide variety of insurancc policies is available and your travel agent will bc able

tO make recOmmendations.The intemation‐ al student travel p。 licies handled by STA Travel or other student travel organisations

are usually g00d valuc.Al、 ″ays check the sinall print.For morc hints on travel insur‐ ancc turn tO the start ofthc Gc■ ing Therc&

Away chaptc■

endcmic,eg A■ ica and South America.You usually have to go to a spccial yellow fじ ver

Medical Kit Medicines are casily available

vaccination ccntrc. Vaccination poses sorne

in the Canary lsiands,and in fact rnany are

risk during pregnancy:also people allergic to

cheaper than in cOuntries such as the IJSA and Australia.Quite a tw that Would nor‐

eggs niay not be able to have this VaCCinc. Discuss with your doctor.

mally requirc a prcscription in Other cOuntrics can bc obtaincd casily ovcr the

Heaith insurance Travcl insurance to

cOuntcr. In any event, you'd bc Wise to

cover then,1。 ss and inedical problems is a wise ldea.

carry a small,straightお rward mcdical kit.It cOuld include:

ee medical E.U citizcns are entitled to l■ ・ care in thc (〕 anar)′ Isiands tュ nder the Spanish national hcalth systcnl on provi‐ siOn of an Elll foHrl, available in your hOme cOuntry l)efOre yOu colne.Even with an Elll,you wili still have to pay lor ined‐

。AntibioticS―

usenll if you're travclling、 vell

ofF thc beaten track, but they nlust be pre― scribed;Cany the prescriptiOn With yOu

・ Antih:shmine(such as Bcnadγ

l)―

uscml as

a decongestant lor colds and al:ergies,to easc

icines bought from pharinacies, evcn if

onl insect bites or stings,and to help prevent nヽ otion sickness;aritihistamines nlay

prescribed,and Perhaps for a few tests and

cause scdation and interact with alcohol so

the itch i卜

Facts for the Visitor― Iiealth 65

carc should bc takcn whcn using thcrn; take

`Agua Potable'_(:)ftcn there are signs

onc you know and have uscd beforc,if possi‐

saying`AguaNo lPotable':don't drink here. Natural watcr,unlcss it's straight iom a

ble

O Antiseptic suchぉ povidone-lodine(cg Beta― dine)-10r CutS and graZCS

・ Aspirin or paracetanlol(acetarninophen in the USA)一 おr pain or tvcr ・ 13andages and lBand‐ aids

e Caiamine lotion or aiuminium suiphate Spray(eg StingoSe)―

deinitely unpolluted spring,is likewise not safe to drink unpurined.

Safe bottled water is available every‐ where,generally for 75 to 85 ptas for a l.5L bottle in shops and supel口markets.

The SimplCSt Way Of puri″ ing any Wtter

tO eaSe irritatiOn iom

bites or stings

●C(Oid‐ and‐ ■u tabietS and thrOati020ngeS― pSeudO"hedrine hydЮ ChiOnde(Sudatd)may bc uscful if llying witll a cOld tO avOid car

dainagc

。usly for inve nlinutes. If you can't boil water it should be treated chemica‖ y.Chio―

rine tabletS(:PuritabS, SteritabS Or Other

brand nameS)Will kill lllany pathOgenS.

:nsect repel:ent

Loperamido(cg lmodium)or Lomotilお

yOu're unccnain abOut is to boil it vigor‐

r di‐

arrhOea; prOChiorperaZinC (Cg StCnlCtil)。 r

mcmclopralnide(eg Maalon)お r

na“ ca md vorniting Mluit:vltam:ns― csIX)Cially for iong"ips when dietary vitainin intake inay be inadequate

Rehydration mixture― for treatment of severe di`uThoca; particularly necessary if you'rc travelling witli children

IOdine iS alSO Very efiFeCtiVe in purilシ ing Water and iS aVailable inね blet ibHn(SuCh as Po●blc Aqua).

Medical Treatinent For serious medical problems and emer‐ gencies, the local public― health se口′ ice provides care to rival that anywhere in the

」、 at mercury thernlo■ leters arc prohibitcd by

I「 Io、 vever, seeing a doctor about inore mundanc problems can be a highly

airlineS)

fl・

SCiS30rS,tWee2erS and thermOmeter(nOte Sunscr(口 en and chap stick VVater‐ pur:■ cation t=blets

Other preparations Makc surc you're hea11ly before you start travclling.If you arc gOing On a long trip● lakc sure yOur tecth arc ()I(.If you wcar giasses take a spare pair and your prcscription.

If you need a pallicular inedication take a

good supply; it inay not be available locally.llake sorne packaging showing tllc gcneric nainc,which wili make ge■ ing re‐ placements easie■ Take a legible lctter or prescription l卜 orn your doctOr tO shOw you lcgally usc thc inedicatiOn.

Basic Ruies VVater I)ornestic,hotel and restaurant tap w■ er is sat b drink throughout the is― lalds.In places with water shortages you

might want to check; lowering of water 愴bles mightintroduce some undesirable in‐ gredients into the supply.Ask ``Es αら′ ′ ρο′ αg“ α ''ifyou're in any doubt. `′ Water ioln public spOuts and fOuntains is

not reliable unless it has a sign saying

、 vorid.

ustrating business. If you want to see a

66 Facts for the Visitor―

Hcalth

is closed, it posts the narne of the ncarest

EveFyday Heaith Norna:body temperature is up to 37・ C or 98.6° F;m)ore than 2° C(4° F)higher indi‐

cates a high `(,ver. ・ 「 he normal adu:t

pulse mb is 60 to 100 per minute(chi:‐ dren 80 to 100,babies 100 1o 140).As a general R』 :ethe pu:Se inCreaSeS abOut 20

beab per minute for each.1・ C(2° F)lse in fever

Theに Spiration(b"athing)餞

t iS a:S。

an indicato「 ofi‖ ness.()ountthe

number

open onc(s)on the door.Lists ofね :m¨ ias de guardia are also olllen givcn in 10cal papers.

Environrnenセ 3:Hazards Fungaiinfections Fungalinfections Occur rnore corllnlonly in hot weather and arc usually found on the scalp,be“ een the tocs

or ingers, in the groin and On the body (ringWOn■ ).YOu get ringWOnn(WhiCh iS a ilngal intCtiOn,nOt a WOrm)金 Om intCted

《 ibЮ aths per minute:between 12 and 20

animals or other people.ヽ 4olsture encour‐

iS nOrmal bradu:tS and O:der Ch‖ dren(up ● 30 bryoungerchi:d“ n,40 br babies). Peop:el″ ith a high fever or selous respi‐

agcs these infections. To prevent ningal infections wear l。 。se,

mtory i‖ ness bЮ athe more quickiy than

wash lャ equently and dry carefully.Ifyou d。

nornla:.More than`40 sha:!ow breaths a nlinute rnay indicate pneumonia.

cOmfortablc clothes,avOid artincial ibres, get an infOction,、 vash the infected area at icast daily with a disinfbctant Or inedicated

soap and water, and rinse and dry wcll. Apply an antinlngal creanl or pOwder like t01niね te(TinadCnn).Try tO eXpOSC thC in―

tctcd aca to air or sunlight as much as doctor quickly, or necd crnergcncy dental treatnlent, you co11ld try the ″ cFα s igθ ′ (emergenCy)SeCtiOn Ofthe nCareSt “ hOSpi● l. (:〉

possiblc and wash alltoweis and under、

vear

in hot water, change them Often and let thern dry in the sun.

thcr、 rise,the cxpcnse ofa private clinic or

surgery is onen wonh the saving in tilne

and iustration.A consultation at such a clinic typicaHy costs somcwhcre between 3000 and 6000 ptas(not counting rnedi‐ CineS). If yOu haVe traVel inSuranCe yOu may、 vell be covcrcd lor this expense.All dental practiccs are private in any case. ・riake all iinaginable documentation、 vhen you dcal、 vith inedical services― passport,

Elll,insurance papers,ideally with photo‐ copies t。 。.´ riourist ofnces,the ipolicc,and usually your accornlnodation, can ali tcll

Heat Exhaustion IDehydration and salt de‐ ´ ■ciency can causc hcat exhaustiOn. riakc tiinc to acclinlatise tO high tcmperatures, drink suficicnt liquids and do nOt dO any― thing too physica‖ y demanding.

salt denciency is characterised by fatigue,letllarlgy,headaches,giddiness and inuscle cranlps. Salt tablets may help,but adding extra salt to your foOd is better.

Heat lStroke This seriOus, OccasiOnally faね 1,condition can occurifthe bOdy's hcat‐

you where to lnd doctors,dcntists and hos‐

rcgulating mechanisnl brcaks do、 vn and the

pitals,or how to call an arnbulance.Many

body tenlpcrature l・ ises to dangerous ievels.

m`り Or hospitals and emergency rnedical ser― vices are inentioned and shoν vn on inaps in

high tenlperatures and insufncient lluids

this l)ook's city sections.

can leave you vulnerable to heat stroke.

PharmaCieS σン″ ″αC'α S)Can help With

many ailmcnts.A system of duty pharma‐ cics(ヵ ″ ″αι′ αs a′

g″ α ″ ″α)。 pcrates so th誠

eaCh tOWn Or diStriCt Of a Ciり

has at least

one open all thc time(although onen only fOr■ 1ling preSCriptiOnS).When a phannaCy

Long, continuous periods of cxPOSure to

The symptoms arc tcling unwell,nOt SWeating Very muCh(Or a all)and a high body temperature(39° C to 41°C or 102° F to 106° F).Where sweating has ccased the skin becornes flushed and red. Severe, throbbing headaches and lack of coordina―

Facts for the Visitor― Health 67

tion will also occur,and the sufllerer may be

confused or aggressive. :Evcntually the victinl will become delirious or convuise. lospitalisation is essential, but in the 1‐

intcrini get victilns out of thc sun,rcmovc thcir clothing,covcr thenl with a wet shcet or to、 vel

and then fan continually. Give

nulds ifthey are conscious.

Sunburn ln the tropics,the dese■ Or at high altitude you can get sunburnt surpris― ingly quickly,evcn through cloud.Use a sunscreen,hat,and barrier crear:l for your nose and lips.Calanline lotion or Stingose

arc good for mild sunburn. Protect your eyes with good― quality sunglasses,particu‐

larly if yOu 、 vill be near water, sand or

snow.

Jet Lag Jet lag is experienced when a persOn mvels by air acrOss mOre than three time ZOneS(eaCh timC ZOnC uSually repre‐ sents a onc_hour timc dimerence).It occurs bccausc nlany ofthc functions ofthe hurnan

bOdy(SuCh aS tCmperature,pulSe rate and

infectious:Diseases Diarrhoea Sirnple things like a change of wder,food or climatc can all causc a mild bout of diarrhoca,but a few rushed toilct

rgulated by interna1 24-hour cycles.When

trips with no other symptoms is not indica‐ tive of a inaJOr problem. I)chydration is the inain danger with any

we travel long distances rapidly,our bOdies

diarrhOea, panicularly in children Or the

take time tO attuSt tO thC`neW time'Of Our

elderly as dchydration can Occur quite

dcstination,and、 ve inay experience fatigue, disorient籠 lon,insomnia,anxiety,impaired

quickly.under an circumstancesル ″ ″― α ″θ″r(atleaStequaltOthCV01umC being ′′ `ι 10St)iSthCmOStimpOrtantthingtO“ mCmbet Weakblacktea、ithalittlesuga■ sodawatcr, 。r sont drinks allowed to go nat and diluted 50%with clean、 vater are all good.With scvere diarrhoca a rehydrating solution is

empけ ing Of the bladder and bOWelS)a・ e

´

cOncentratiOn and 10ss Of appetite. rllese efi「ects will usually bc gone within three days of arrival,but to nlinimise the impact ofjet lag: 。IRest fbr a couplc of days prior to departure. ・ Try to sclcct night schcdules which minimise sleep dcprivation; arriving late in the day :1leans you can go to sleep soon after you arrivc.For vcry long nights,try to organise a

stopover ・ Avoid exccssive eating (、 thc StOmaCh)and alCohOl〈 WhiCh ^7hich CauSeS bloats dehydra― tion)during the night.Instead,drink plcnty of

noncarbonatcd, nonalcoholic drinks such as 衝 ruitjuicc or watcr o Avold snloking. 。 Make yourself comお ■able by wearing loose‐ ■tting clothes and perhaps bringing an eyc rnask and car plugs to help yOu siccp. ・ Tryゎ sieep tt the appЮ primc timeお rthe time zone you arc travclling to.

preferable to replace mincrals and salts lost.

Comrnercially available oral rehydration

salts(ORS)are very uschl;add them to boilcd orbottlcd watcn ln an erncrgency you can nlake up a solution of six teaspoons of sugar and a halfteaspoon of salt to ll_′ of

boiledorbottledwatetUrincisthebestguide to the adequacly ofreplacernent― ifyou have

sinall ainounts of concentrated urine,you need to drink nlore.Keep drinking srnall

amountsollcn,andsticktoablanddictasyou rccovc■ HepatitiS HepatitiS iS a general terFn fOr in‐

nanlination of the liver. It is a comrnon

disease woridwide.The symptoms are Prickly IHeat Prickly hcat is an itchy rash

causcd by cxccssive perspiration trappcd undcrthe skin.It usually strikes people who

haVC juSt aFiVCd in a hOt ClimatC.Keeping cool, bathing oftcn, drying the skin and using a mild talcurn or prickly heat pOwder or cvcn resorting to air― conditioning rnay help.

fever,chilis,hcadachc,fatiguc,fcelings of wcakη Oss and aches and pains,lollo、 ved by loss of ap.petitc,nausca,vorniting,ab(lomi‐ nal pain,dark urine,light― coloured fheces,

jaundiCed(ye‖ OW)Skin and thC WhiteS Of the eyes may turn yenow.Hepatitis A is

transmitted by contaminated food and drinking water.The disease poses a real

68 Facts for the Visitor―

Iiealth

threat to the western travellen】

ou shotlld

Y「

cludc trcatrncnt lor serious medical cOndi‐

scck mcdical advice,but therc is nOt nluch

tions.

you can do apart lronl resting,drinking lots of fluids,cating lightly and avoiding fatity

Sexua‖ y TransITlimled Diseases Gonor―

foods. Peoplc who havc had hepatitis

rhoea,herpes and syphilis are among these

should avoid alcohol for some tiine a食

diseases;sores,blisters or rashes around the

ler

the iliness, as the liver needs tirne to re― cover.

Hepatitis E is transinitcd in the same

way, it can be very serious in prcgnant wornen. ´

rherc are alrnost 300 million chronic car‐

gcnitals,discharges or pain when urinating arc corninon syrnptorns. In sorne sexually

transmitted diseases(STDs),such as wa威 virus or chlanlydia,syrnptorns nlay be less lnarkcd or not observed at all especially in 、 vomen.Syphilis syrnptoins eventually dis―

riers ofHepatitis B in the worid.It is spread through contact、 vith infected blood,blood

appear completely butthe disease continucs

products or body,■uids,cg through sexual

years.While abstinence fiOm sexual cOntact is thc only 100%cf10ctive prcvention,using

contact, unsterilised needles and blood transfusions, or contact with blood via sinall breaks in the skin.Othcr risk situa―

tions includc having a shave, tattoo, or having yOur body pierced with cOntaminat‐

ed equipment.The symptoms oftype B may

and can cause severe problerns in latcr

condoms is also cffcctive.The treatincnt Of gonorrhoca and syphilis is with antibiotics. ´ 「 he diffcrent sexually■ ansnll■ ed diseases each require specinc antibiotics.´ 「 here is n。

curc for hcrpes or AII)S.

bc nlore severe and may lead to long―

terin problerns.I― Iepatitis I)is spread in the sanle

Less Conlmon Diseases

、 vay, but the risk is rnainly in shared

Rabies Rabies is a fatal viral infection

needles.

found in nlany countries, although not much of an issue in the Canary lsiands.

Hepatitis C can lcad to chronic liver

Many animals can be intcted(such as

disease.The vinls is spκ ad by contact with blood usually via contaminated transfusiOns

dOgS, CatS and batS),and it iS their SaliVa

or shared needles. Avoiding thesc is the

which is infectious. Any bite, scratch or

only rncans of prcvcntion.

cven lick from a warm‐ blooded, furry anirnal should be cleaned iinrnediately and

HiV&AIDS HIV,the Human lmmunoden―

thoroughly. Scrub

ciency Virus,dcvclops into AII)S,Acquired

water,an(lthen apply alcohol or iodine sO‐

lrnmunc Dcicicncy Syndromc,which is a

lutiorl. Medical help should bc sought

ねtal discase.HIV is a major problem in

prOmptly tO КCCiVC a COurSC Ofi■ eCtiOnS tO prevent the onset of syrnptorns and death.

many countries. Any exposure to blood,

、 vith soap and running

bl。 。 d

products or body nuids inay put the ・ hc diseasc is often individual at risk. 「

transnlittcd through sexual contact or dirty

needles― vaccinations,acupuncture,tanOo― ing and body picrcing can be potcntially as

dangerous

as

intravcnous

drug

use.

Tetanus Tctanus Occurs when a wOund becornes infected by a gerΠ l that lives in soil and in the faeccs of horses and other aninlals.It enters the body via breaks in the skin.A‖ wounds should be cleancd prompt‐

HIV/AIDS can also bc sprcad through in‐ fected blood transilsions;some dcveloping

or solution applied. Use antibiotics if thc

countries cannot afllord to screen blood used

wound becornes hot,throbs or pus is seen.

for transfusions.

The nrst symptom may bc discomぉ

Ifyou do need an inJection,ask to sce thc

syringc unwrapped in fiont of you,or take a nccdle and syringc pack Ⅵ′ ith you. Fcar of HIV infcctiOn shOuld never pre―

ly and adequately and an antiscptic crearn

rt in

swa‖ owing,or stiftning of the jaw and ved by painnul convul_ ncck; this is f。 11。 、

sions of the jaw and whole body.The discasc can bc fatal.

Facts for the Visitor― ヽ Ⅳlomcn Travellers 69

insect Bites&Stings

Pregnancy Most iniscarriages occur

IBIee and wasp stings arc usually painful

during thc arst thrce:nonths of pregnancy.

rather than dangerous.Howcver in peOple ・ whoそ ■ e allergic to them severe breathing

casionally lead tO severe bleeding.'The last

dinRculties inay occur and require urgent FnediCal Ca:re.CalanlinC 10tiOn Or StingOSe

spray will give relief and ice packs will reducc thc pain and siⅣ clling.

Miscarriage is not lュ

ncornmon,and can oc‐

thrce months should also be spent within rcasonable distance ofgood medical care.A

baby born as early as 24 wecks stands a chancc of survival, but only in a good nlodern hospital.Additional care should bc

Cuヽ &Scratches Wash wcll and treat any cut with an anti‐

septic such as pOvidOne_iOdine. Whcre possible avoid bandages and Band‐ which can keep wounds wet.

alds,

)oral cuts are notoriously slo、v to heal and ifthcy arc not adequatcly cleaned snlall (Ξ

plcccs of coral can bccornc cnlbedded in the、 vound.Clean

any cut thoroughly with an antiseptic. Severe pain, throbbing, redness, fevcr or gcnerally feeling un、

vell

takcn to prevent iliness and particular at‐ tcntiOn shOuld be paid tO diet and nutritiOn.

AIcohol and nicotine,for exanlple,should be avolded.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS Thc bcst way for women travellers to ap‐ proach thc Canaly lsiands is simply to be ready to ignore stares,catcalls and unnec‐ essary cornrnents.Harassnlent is nluch less

nrcquent than you rnight expect, and thc

suggest infection and the need fOr antibi_

advice here is κ」ly justthe common sense

otics prOrnptly as cOral cuts nlay rcsult in serious infections.

stuff you need tO kecp in inind anywhere. ´ hink twice about going alonc to isolated

VVolnlen's Health

Gynaeco:ogical

Probierns

Sexually

tranSmitted diSeaSeS are a ma10r CauSe Of

vaginal problenls. Syrnptorns include a sinelly discharge, painful intercOurse and solnetirnes a burning scnsatiOn when uri― natingo Malc scxual paliners nlust also be tre■ ed.Medical attention should bc sought and rerncnlbcr in addition to these discascs

HIV or Hcpatitis B inay also be acquircd

during expOsure.Besides abstincnce,the best thing is tO practise safe sex using condorns.

Antibiotic use, synthetic underwear, vcating and contraccptive pilis can lead tO fungal vaginal infections when travelling in s、

hot clinlates. Maintaining 300d personal hygiene, and ioose‐ ■tting clothes and cotton undcIRvear will help tO prevent thcse infections.

Fungal infections, charactcriscd by a rash,itch and discharge,can be treated with a vinegar or lenlon‐ Juice douche, or with

yoghu■ .Nystatin,miconazole or clotrima― zole pessaries or vaginal creanl are the usual treatinent.

I｀

stretches()fbeach or down dark city streets at nittt.Wherc thcre are crowds― as thcre o食 en are very late into the night in to、 vns and cities― you're safen lt's inadvisable for a wornan to hitchhike alone― and nc)t a great idea even fbr t、 vo women togcther.

Topless bathing and skirnpy ciOthes are

gcncrany OK■

the coastal resorts,but oth―

erwise a li■ lc morc modcsty is thc norm. Not a fcw local young wornen feei no corn― punction about dressing to klll,but equally feel absolutely no obligation to respond tO any nlale interest this arouscs.

Recominended reading is the」 り ″′lbο οた ￨ク

″ルαッ ″′ ″sby M&G Moss. ′ン;後)″ ι GバY&LESB:AN (〔

TRAVELLERS

〕 ay and lesbian sex are both legal in Spain

and llence in the Canary lsiands,and the age of consent is 16 years,the same as for het‐

erosexuals. Thc Playa del lng16s, on the southern end of Gran Canaria,is where the bulk of iEurope's gay cro、 vd heads when holidaying in thc(〕 anarics, and thc night life hcrc bunlps and grinds all year round. ′ G′ ′ α Gαツ ′sα αο is a guide to gay and lesbian bars,discos and contacts throughout

70 Facts for the Visitor-lDisabled′

rravellers

Spain and can be found n10stly in gay and lesbian bookshops_EI″ ′ ′ ′″′ιs,a gay inaga‐

SEN:OR TRAVELLERS Senior citizens get reductions on the inter―

zine,is on sale at sorne newsstands fbr 500

iSiand trrieS and hydrOfOilS(See the

ptas.

Getting Around chapter for more inlorma― tiOn)・ SOme Of the luXuriOuS′ α ″ aS αJο ″

Before you lcave home, check out the ′ αι ′ ″ 力 ″Gり ■々″(the Spana‐ 身,α ″ cus list"G″ also includcs thc cornprchcnsive ヽ 4α ′ S′ α″ ′ ασ″S ′ ′ ο″α′ 」 E,ι ノ ′ ′ ,ο ″ Esiη α ″α, in

English and Gennan),published by Bruno Gminder Verlag,Mai1 0rdcr,PO Box l1 07 29,D‐ 1000 Berlin ll.Ferrari Publications,

Phoenix,AZ,tJSA,also does travel guides おrgり men and PJα sル ″ k)″ θ′.Les― bians should look also“at ,″ b″ θ″ Gο ′ ″g P′ αο ヽ Vomen

`s, published in London by (]oing Places.

occasionally ofFcr discounts for people over

60(see Accommodation latcr in this Chapter).

TRAVEL WiTH CH:LDREN Canarios take quickly to children,who are welcome at all kinds of accornrnodation, and in virtually cvcry caf6,bar and restau―

rant.In fact,having children with you can

oflen open doors to contact with iocal

・ here are a fe、 v Spanish qucer sites on the Vi/orid Wide Web, one of the best of which is Gαッ母,α f″ (gayspain.com).It has

peOple who yOu Othelnvise inay nOt have the opportunity to lneet. The ornnipresence of bars and caf6s with outside tables allows drinking grown― ups to

city and regional listings of bars,clubs,ac‐

indulge in their favourite tipples while their

cornrnodatiori and thc likc that includc options in the〈 〕 anary lsiands.・「 he infornla‐

of a comparativcly child‐ ■icndly socicty

I・

tion is in Spanish. For infol■ nation about gay groups in the

isiands,you might like to write in advance to the Colectivo de(3ays y Lcsbianas de Las

Palmas,Apanado de(Con・ eos 707, 35080

linlc Ones nin arOund and play― a g00d sign Local kids arc quitc used to staying up latc and at iestas it's conl:nonplace to sec even tiny ones toddling the strects at 2 or 3 anl. Visiting kids like this idca too― but o■lcn can't cope with it quite so readily.

・

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

DiSABLED TRAVELLERS

I・

ravclling with kids obviously irnplies

taking a diIIicrcnt approach to your holiday.

Constant moving a・ound may bc fascinating

The British‐ bascd lRoyal Association for

for adults,but children o食 en fail to appre‐

Disability&Rchabili● tion(RADAR)pub‐ lishes a usemi guide,〃 。′ zαッsι コ レαl,′ ′ Иら´ οαグ」И G″ 」 グ ′Dお αら″′P′ ο P″ ,With `.わ a SeCtiOn On Spain(inCluding thC Canary

ci=e the joys of the road.Fortunately,the anaries are in this sense an ideal location ― only those detenrlined to see all seven

ISIandS)COVCring COntaCt addreSSeS,tranS‐ port,serviccs and accorninodation.(3ontact

tO SubieCt themSelVCS,let a10ne their Chil― drcn,to day after day of tiring nlovenlent.

0171‐ 2503222)at 12 City Forum,250 City Rd,London EC1 8AF. MIobility lntemational(● 02‐ 4106274;ね x

As a rule,kids adapt quickly to new envi―

RADAR(●

02‐ 4106297),Rue

delManchestr 25,Brus‐

([〕

isiands atlightning speed would be tempted

roninents, but nlost v′

ould never budge if

they had a choice.I「 Ianging around the one spot for a few days at a tiine,or choosing a

seis B1070, Belgiunl, has researched

pel■ rlanent

facilitics for disabicd tourists in Spain and thc Canary lsiands.

SiOnS,CreateS a SenSC Ofね miliaity(quite

In the UK again,Holiday Carc Selwicc (● 01293‐ 774535)can send you aね ct sheet

niCeお r

base fionl which to lllake excur‐

adultS t00!).

´ hc kind ()f activities which take up I｀

nlost visitors'timc in the islands, such as

well as travel agents who can help organise

lounging around on beaches, are usually welcolned by kids,too. Children wili be cheered by the knowledgc that thc Ca‐

trips.

naries are not overly laden with museurns,

on hotels and other accorninodation in the Cana■ /1siands catering for thc disabled,as

Facts for the Visitor― Usefu1 0rganis■ ions 71

rnonuments and Other artillcial wonders which s。 。nen are a sourcc of incomprc_ hensible fhscinatiOn tO grOwn‐ ups, and of desperatc, yawn‐ inducing bOredOni tO

tatuに ■lms,language‐ teaching material, clectronic databascs and music CDs.

thernselves.

price youth and studenttravel tickets.It alsO

Sorne of thc stufF put On fOr tOurists should appeal as nluch to kids as adults.

youth hostel cards,and FIYTO)and ISIC

Animal“ setves(such as Tenerit's Loro

cards(sec Visas&Documents earlier in this

Parque)and a plCthOra Oftheme parkS On

chapteう .TIVE has branches in Las Palmas dc Gran Canaria and La Laguna(■ nerit).

thc inain islands of .Ilcncrifc and (Ξ

《 ]ran

)anaria provide nュ n for ali thc family.

Bring along at least a couple of your

・rIVE, thc Spanish youth and studcnt

travel organisation, is good lor reduced‐ issues various useful dOcuments such as HI

DANGERS&ANNOYANCES

kids'favOurite tOys anci/Or games to keep

The Canary lsiands are not exactly danger―

thcnl occupied. There are no particular health precautiOns

OuS teritOry,and the VaSt maiOrity Of

you need to take with your children in the Canary lsiands.・ hat sald,kids tend to be

sunburn and the occasiOnal hangover. PCtty theft(WhiCh may nOtSeem SO petけ

I・

travellers to the islands risk li■ le rnOre than

more af〕 Fectcd than adults by unaccustorncd

if your passport, cash, travellers cheques,

heat,changcs in diet and sleeping pa"erns,

Credit Card and CamCm all gO miSSing),iS a problem,but with a few simple precautions yOu can minl:nise the danger

andjust being in a strange placc.

Nappies, crearns, lotions, baby foods and so on are all as casily available in the

For sornc specinc hints about iooking

Canary lsiands as in any othcr western

aner yourluggage and nloney,and on safety

country, but if thcre's sOnle particular brand you swear by it's best to bring it with you.Calpol,lor instance, isn't casily found.

for wolllen,see the What to Bring,Money and VVlomen ・ ravcllers sectiOns earlier in

Infants genera‖ y travcl iee On fenies

nannc,address and telephone nurnber insidc your luggage,and takc phOtOcOpies of the irnportant pagcs of yOur passpOrt, travel tickets and Other irnpOrtant dOcurnents.

and othcr boats,and those iom two to 12 gO fOr half price.

Lonely Planet's7ンανι′ソ″′ 力Cカ メ ルレθ″,by

Maureen Wheeler, has lots of practical

I｀

this chapter

Belorc you lcavc home, inscribe yOur

advice on the subject,and irst‐ hand stOries

Iく eep the copies separate fiOin the Originals and ideally leave onc set ofcopies at horne.

from inany Loncly Planet authors, and

These steps wili make things casicr if you

othcrs,who havc done it.

do suffer loss or thcft.

uSEFUL ORGANISAT:ONS ′

ravel insurancc against theni and loss is another good idea;sce the Hcalth scction in this chapter

´ I｀

rhe lnstitutO lc‐ ervantes, with branches in ovcr 30 cities around the world, cxists to

pronlote Spanish language and cuiture in all Spanish―speaking cOuntries.It's inainly in‐

volvcd in Spanish language teaching and ´ library and infornlatiOn serviccs. 「 he libraly_4量 )O

London branch-102E“ on

Square,London SWl W9AN(●

0171‐ 486

Theft&Loss The risk Ofthen is highestin thc rcs。 ■s,the main towns and、 vhcn you nrst an・ ive in the

islands or a ncw town and may be Off yOur

guard, disoriented or unawarc of dangcr signs.Pickpockets and bag snatchers are the

4350)一 has a wide range Of material on

main worry,along with the食

spain but li■ le specincally on thc canary lslands.It includes referencc books,litera‐

ture, books on history and the arts,

Carry valuables under your clothes ifpossi‐ ble― cenainly nOt in a back pOcket Or in a day pack or anything that could be snatched

periodicals, over 1000 vidcos including

away casily― and keep your eyes open for

■om cars.

72 Facts for the Visitor-1)angers&Annoyances

in Cia30 0f EE■ Or9enCy :f you're senous:〕 ′i::。 r iniured,son、 eOne shouid!et your embassy or cOnsu:ate knOw. OuS emenじency numbers are provided th“ oughout this guide. Many Othern"se, va numberS brt鮨 I neareSt Fdioe,Guardia C ‖or ambulan“ laЮ had■ o‐ remember nine‐ 腱。neS・ There are`hOWeVer,a ieW yOu Cantryin an eme"enCy"Om(in moSt CaSeS) `聰 anW絆 loЮ in the arhipdago: ● 091 Po:icia Naciona:(Naせ onai Po:ice)

● 092 Po:に Ia Locai(L∝ a:Po‖ ∞ ) ● 061 ■ .

Urgencias Sa:ud(Medica:Emergencies) ● 062 Cuardia C i:eme“glencn′ ―this only wo「 ksin Cran Canada,Lanzlrote and Fuerteventura ● 080 BombeЮ s(Firettghters)― this onv app:ies to Gran Canana La Po‖ ●L Span“ hp● :te ar● on the who:e mo腱 ofa he:p than a theat b the avemge

friendiy enoughわ be approachable br Mod of hem are cettinけ do.occun dipectlons on the st面 .Unp:easant even"such as randori drug searches‐ b崚 nOt th gre籠 ￨lquenCy Spain has no ca:equ ab■ of`bobby on the beat'st“ et !aw‐ abidi嘔;traveileri

paltЮ l p。

:ice.

￨

are thme mainけ ρO」 icね :the Poncia Nacional,the Cuardia Civ‖ and the Po■●Ia Local(someumes ed the Po‖ cia Municipal).The words po‖ cla and "s ca‖ of ThB『 e

guardia are used here to refer to the foroes, but they a:so denote the individua!

members. The pO‖ Ci3 Neelonal covers c es and biggertowns and is the main cttne‐ 19hting body b)calEe mOst crimes halttЮ n On ls patch.ThOse in unぃ 。rm wearb:ue,but there is dsO a large αytungentin piain dOthes,sOme of wh。 ″:ゎ nm specia:squads dea‖ ng wih dlugs,te打 olsm,etc.Most orthemithough,am to befoundin pO:ice s‖ ions ca:bd 。。″ぉ a″as,shuming masses Of paper cOn∝ 『ning things such as the issuing Of pass_ por観 ideni,CadS,and reSiden∞ CardS b『 bttignerS WhO like Spain enough to opt f`"r:on9‐ terrn entangiement lvith its bureaucracy.

Mo「e nunterous ane the green unい orrns ofthe Cuardia Civ‖ ,whose lT)ain respons■ are vinages,「 。ads,the cOuntりiside,p sons,and sOlme envirOnmenta!prOte(試 iOn. The Cuardia CMi was estab:ished in he 19th centu:γ to que‖ banditry,butsoon came to be regalded as a poittdsedう orce repressing any cha‖ enge to tho slhtus quo.Though b“ mes

餞〕image has soiened singe Fran《 Ю and l has been moved out ofthe ЮspOnsibmty of 衝e Deね nce Ministり intOthe lnね or Ministワ ,1に mains a mi:に ary Organisation in some qua!ifyゎ r mi:iね ry ways:most o籠 oers have attended a millary academy,and membe、 deα D『 dbnS. The p.o:lcia Localis undertheiu

sdiction ofcity and town councms,and dea:s rnainly

h minor ma"ers sudl as parking,trattc and bブ

aws.They wear a b!ue and white

unifOrFnl‐

:fyou.need to 91o to書 、 e.lD0100,any Ofthem Ⅶ IldO,but yOu may lnd the lPOliCFa Local

the most he:p鮨

:.

■

Facts for the Visitor― Legal Matters 73

peoplc who get unnecessarily cIOse to you.

par、 r anirnals,、 vhen sufnciently tanked,can

Iever leave anything visible in cars― it an open invitation tO break in.If pOssible,

becOrne quite unpredictablc.In nlost cases,

1ヽ

is

we are talking 10ud and drunken iOuts

don't cven leave anything valuable in the

felTied in On chaner flights i卜 Om nOrthcrn

b00t(trunk).HiК CarS in panicular are ta_

Europe and the UK,somc of whom can't

geted.

rcsist a goOd ight.Itis sad butlargely me thatthe bulk ofthose who end up in Canary

′ Ilake care with your be10ngings On the

bcach;anything lyinglon thc sand cOuld dis_

lsiands coolers are brcigners who just

appear in a nash when your back is turned -lone travellers should cOnsider investing in a WaterprOOfneCk pOuCh SO thatthey can

don't scem to know when enough is

keep mOney, paSSpOrt and Other(light‐

Weight)ValuableS With them eVen WhilC swlmming. Avoid dingy,cmp″ city aneys and back strects,or anywhere that just docsn't tel

100%safe,at night. )on't leave anything valuable lying I〕

around your roonl,and use a safe if One's available. Ifanything valuable is stolen or iost,you must report it to the police,and get a cOpy

ofthe report,ifyou wantto lnake an insur‐ ance claim. lf yOur passpOrt has gOne,cOntact yOur embassy or consulatc for help in issuing a rcplacement.Enlbassics and consulates can

enough.・ The bestthing you can probably dO

is walk away nronl trouble if you see it brewing,and if、 varranted try to contact the police一 although iocals w‖ l probably see tO that bcforc you can.Sec also lLegal Mattcrs

below.

LECAL MATTERS If you're ta"ested you wili be allo■ ed the ■ee SeⅣ iCeS Ofa duty SOHCitOr(α らοgα dο da q/と fο ), WhO rnay SpCak Only SpaniSh. 1140u're also entitlcd to rnake a phone call.If

you use thistO cOntact your enlbassy or con‐ sulate,it will probably bc able to do no more than refer you to a lavvyer who speaks yOur

ianguage. If you end up in cOurt, the au‐ thorities are obliged to provide a translator.

give help of various kinds in Other einer―

Drugs

gencies,but as a rulc cannot a`ivance iyOu

Spain's liberal drug iaws werc tightencd in

n10nCy tO gCt hOnte. Where yOur COuntry has no consulate in the isiands, yOu may havc to contact your enlbassy in Madrid.

1992.The only lcgal drug is cannabis,and only in anlounts for personal use― which means very small anlounts.

Other Emergencies

Public consumption ofany drug is appar‐ ently lllegal,yet in sOme bars peOple still

Medical ernergency numbers and locations

smokejoints openly.Other bars will ask yOu

of inany hospitals and clinics are given in this book's city and tow:l sections.Sec also

to step outside ifyOu light up.・ rhc Only sure rnoral ofthese stories is to be very discreetif

the boxed aside on this page for general

you do usc cannabis.

emergency nurnbcrs.

Annoyances

BUSINESS HOuRS

lriou would have to be in a bad nlood to lget allthat annoyed in the(〕 anaries,but several things can get on your ncrves.In the bigger citics and,above all,in the rcsolls noise can

(Ilcnerally,people work Monday to Friday lronl about 9 anl to 2 pn, and then again う roin 4.30 or S pΠ 】for another threc hours. Shops and travel agencies are usually open thesc hours on Saturday too,although somc

be a problcm.()f course,you can always

nlay skip the evening session. IBig supcr―

lcavc cities and resorts bchind in scarch Of

inarkets and dcpanmcnt stOrcs such as thc EI Cone lng16s chain,o■ cn stay open all day Mlonday to Saturday,ioln about 9 ain to 9 pm.A lot of government ofnces don't

nlore tranqull locales.

While On thC SubieCt Of reSOrtS,pany aniinals shOuld be awarc that sOrnc Other

74 Facts fbr the Visitor―

Public Holidays&Special Events

bother with aftemoon opening any day of the year.See earller sections ofthis chapter

M″ cVApril Jレ ′ ν′s tSα ″′ ο

for bank and post oficc hours.

30Mり

PUBLiC HOL:DAYS&SPECIAL

June

D″ ″ ′ αsお′ αs

EVENTS

′

(Maundy 「 hursday, the day

beお re Good Friday)

Ca″ ′″α s(Canary lslmds Dり

)

SC″ お″(the ThWSday a■ Cr the ei』 th “ aner Eastcr Sunday)― in Las Palm‐ Sunday de Gran Canaria,La Laguna and La Oroぬ va (Teneri偽 ),1。 cals prepac extraOdinary nOral Cο フ

Pubiic Hoildays There are at least 14 o16cial holidays a year

in thc Canary lsiands.When a holiday falls close to a weckend,locals like to make a ρ″θ″た (bridge)_meaning they take me in_ tervening day ofF too.()n occasion,when a COuple Of h01idayS fall CiOSe t(D the Sanle weekend,tlle puente becollles an α θ′レε′ ο `″

(aCqueduCt)! ・ 「 he seven main national holidays,ob‐

served throughoutthe isiands and the rest of

Spain(the authOritieS Seem tO Change their

mindSabOutSOmeOfthCSCaStheyearSgOby),

carpets to celcbratc this feast day,alld the cel‐ ebration is also big in Mazo and lEI Paso,in l′ a

Palma 25 July

Dfa d`S´″″αgο И′

ノ(Feぉ t of StJames the Apostle,SPain's patron `sゎsaint)― in Santa Cruz de´ricnerifc thc day also rnarks the coininenl。 _

ration ofthe dcfence ofthe city against Horatio

Nclson 61)ecernber D″ d′ ′ a Cο ′ ,s″ ″あ ″(Cmstitution Dり

)

are:

Fiestas Canarios, likc inany of their inainland

l January

cousins, have a penchant fOr lelting it all

/′ δⅣ″ ‐′ ο(New Year's Day)

l May

hang out at nurnerous iestas and local 」 (ぬ irS)thЮ u♪ Out the yean With little ル″ “ cα″ doubt ″αναr is the wildest tirne, but

F,● ″ ル ′ルαら″ο(Labow Day) 15 August Zα /s″ ,trわ ″(Fcast ofthe Assumption)

there are nlany otllers in the course of thc ycar― indccd in August alone itis said there are nlore than 50.

MarcVApril

″′′ ″′ s Sα ″ ゎ (Good Friday)

12()ct()ber

D″ d`′ α〃fψ α″idα ′い なional Day) l Novcnlbcr 力)dOs Sα ″′ Os(Ali Saints'Day)― gets panicu― lar atention across thc island of・ Iicncrife

8 December ια′ ″

in practice they arc generally Occ,asiOns fOr

having■ln.」RIο ″,′″αs

are particularly note―

wOnhy. PrOcessiOns Of a rnOre Or less organiscd naturc head i臓 oin a town's `′

ι″′ ′dα Gο ′ο

"α cOnceptiOn)`pι maCulae

あ″(Feast of the lm‐

churchcs to a hcl口 mitage or siinilar location

251:)ecernber ,

Many of these nestas have a religious baCkgrOund(SaintS'dayS are COrnlnOn)but

dedicated to a saint or the Virgin Mary, loctted some way■ om the town.

″ッ ,aα グ(christmas)

Many local fbstivals are noted in city and

In addition, the Canary lsiands regional governrnent sets a further flve holidays, whilc local councils a1locate anothcr two.

town sections of this book and tourist ofnces can supply nlorc dctalled infolTrla_ tion.A few ofthe nlost outstanding include:

Common dates include: 2 February g′ ″ル ′ И″ αCa″ ル ル′ ね (leStiVa1 0fthe patrOn 6 January Eρ

″ね (Epiphany)or D″

d′

わsR′ツ0

「α gο s(Th“ e Kings'Day),when children ル `力 rcceive prcsents

19 March

D″

d′ Sα ″J″ α ″(St

John's Day)

Ofthe arChipelag。 )― an intenSe fCStiVal dCriV‐ ing floln the supposed apparition belore the

Guanches ofthe Virgin Maγ (the eventis also celebrated on 15 August);theた stival is cele‐

bratcd in thc town of the sante nanle in Tenerit

Facts for the Visitor― Activities 75 Fcbruary/ヽ4arch Ca′ ″ ανα′(CamiVal)― SeVeral wceks offancy‐ drcss parades and lncrryinaking across the

The Encuentro′「 catral Tres Continentes (aka lFestival lnternaciOnal de・

Ileatro dc los

iSIands,cnding on the′ 「 uesday 47 days before Easter Sunday.This is tt its w‖ dest and mOst

Tres Mundos)a■ racts theatrc companies

extravagant in Santa Cnlz de Tenerifc,where

'om Europc,Latin AmericaSeptcmber and A■ Agbimes(Gran Canaria)in

ica to

the 10CalS put On a diSplay rivalling that ofRio dc Jane:ro. 21‐ 30

June グιハ as″ ●Sθ ″ο′ αd′ ′ αs A″ ´ νas― this `ク only Oncc every flvc ycars in icsta is held Santa Cruz dc Palma.The prOccssions,dances

B`り α dα

and merryrnaking cOnstitute thc is:and's prcrnier religious festival.

July fα ′ ′″ ′Sα′β′″″ο Иbaピ _hcld on the “ Sunday ofthe rnonth in La Laguna(1lcner― ■rst

Rο

iた )

14 July

′

l′ Sα ″ D′ α′ B″ ο ″αッ ′″′ ″″ α―patrOn

saint ofBe‐

tancurla,Fucneventura 4 August FたSrα d`′αRα ― held in Agaete(Gran "α Canaria) August(dates vaり ) Rο ″′ ガα da Sα ′ Rο 9″ held in Garachico `― (■ nerit) 25 August D″ da Sα ″ G'″ ιs― held in Arccit(Lan‐ ZarOte) Septenlber

ACTiVIT:ES

・rherc is no shortage of distractions in the

Canaries,where everything iOm goif to water spOns,trckking tO diving are On Ofibr.

Cycling Mountain bikcs can be rentcd f10in sOrne resorts.They arc a grett way Of cscaping the crowds and hcading fOr the hilis and a less tOuristy experience.Somc foresttracks are suitablc fOr biking.

Trekking&Hiking Not everyone、vhO visits the isiands wants sinlply to loungc around on the beacllcs and hang out in bars.Away frorn the coast there

is plenty of surprising cOuntiyside tO ex_ plore.The western isiands in pa■

icular,not

strong on beachcs anyway,offer some grcat 、 valking.

6‐ 8

F′ ′ srα d′

α Иl=`″ ′

d′ ′P′ ″ ο_hc!d

in Teror

(Gran Canaria),it is the isiand's most impor―

tant religious celebratiOn. The fcstivities actually begin t、 o weeks bcfbre these inal 1′

key days. 7-15 Scptcnlbcr

′

he best islands to look lor waves are Lan‐ zarote and (〕 ran Canaria, where yOu arc I｀

likcly to get a reliable cOrnbination ofsatis‐

取 ing SWell and Wind thtt doesn't chop it all

F′ ′ s′ α d´ /Sα ″ ′ お

Lattna(Tcneri偽 )

Surfing

ο C′ おわ ― held in La

'″

Octobcr Rο ′ ″ daⅣ ″as″ ′S′ ″ο″ αd′ ノ αι:″ ―held in Las“Palrnas `α de Grran Canaria and l■arked by a boat procession

up.

vvindsurnng

・ 「 his■ lust bc one ofthe n10st pOpular spo■ in thc isiands. Whcrcver yOu are yOu can

ls

nOrnlally piCk ur)a SufiCient breeZc to

131)eccnlber Dfα ′ Sa″ ι″ ―celebrated al1 0ver Gran ``α `α Canaria

inakc it wo■ h your while to head Out with your board and sail.Hiring gear is gcneral‐ ly no problem― yOu'11 ■nd outlets at the

Arヽ Festivais Las Palmas dc Gran Can‐

main resOns.

aria in particular plays hOst tO several

C〕 ran Canaria is the windiest ofthe group and thuS ideal fOr What 10CalS Callヽ 」 ″´IS″″―

￨′

impOnant ans festivals including thc Festi‐

4′

val lntemacional de M`sica(January);the Festival dc Opera(Fcbruary‐ March);the Festival dc Banet y Danza(May);and the

αS,WhO Ch00Se abOVe a‖ ル′

Muestra lntemacional de Cine(an intema‐

worid‐class conlpetitiOns are held. Pretty inuch ali the isiand's beaches are ifine for

tional fllnl festival held evcry"。 October‐ November).

years in

thc bcach of

Bahfa de l)ozo lzquicrdo to practise their sport.It is usually here that suinmcnirne

your average windsurfcta. Anlong other

76 Facts for thc Visitor― Activities

spOts on this isiand, ali situatcd between Las Palinas and Maspalornas,are:Playa del

Ojo de Caza,Playa del Burrcro,Vargas, Arinaga,Mosca Point(near Pozo lzquier― do),Juan Grande,Playa del Aguila,Bahfa Feliz, and the Faro (lighthousc)de Mas‐

palomas.

Playa de EI Cabezo(nea El M6dano)in

′ I｀

hcrc are several marine parks where

yOu can getinto this,and inany outits offcr

diving safaris and wreck diving. Sorne of the better diving is around the islands of ´

Ilenerife and Lanzarote,where the sca lifc is rich and varicd. ()ff・riencrife you can dive and swim、 vith

Cos● Teguisc)in Lan,強 rotc a1l oftr good windsuring conditions too.

dolphins or cven feed rays, whilc around the islets and Farnara coast of Lanzarotc valls, yOu can see coral covcred rock 、 octopus colonies, big schools of various ish types and c。 1。 urfui n12rine nora.The

In generalthe conditions are so good that

WanS and tunneiS betWeen COFalejO and

・ Ilencrifc, IPiaya de Sotavcnto in southern

Fuenevcntura, and Las(Cucharas(near

three rounds of the PWiA VVorld・ Ilour are held in the iSiandS eVery year(One CaCh in Gran Canariヽ Tenerine and Fuerteventura). ´

VVarning 「 he prevailing trade winds

lsiote de l_.obos, Fueneventura, contrast

with the shallow terraces off the south

cOast,teeming with sea lit.The marinc rescrve orLa Restinga in EI Hiero is also a good spot.

surnrncr. AIso, various spots, including

The quality of the water mcans that yOu can generally rely on around 25‐

sOrnc of those nlentioned above, can bc dangerous for the inexpert. If you are

30rn visibility, especially in surnrner and auturnn.

unsure,ask advice fionl a nearby windsurf― ing school or shop.It is illegal to llcad out tO sca lcss than tvvo hours ibefore sunset. Tha's a hard law to cnforce,but the idea is that you shouldn't be out therc alllcr dark― ifyou stuff up,yOu'1l be hard to rcscue.

´ ″′ Os ou'll find about 40 divc ccntres(ο ′ ′′b″ C`ο )SCattered thrOughOut the iSiandS,

Swimming

advised to bring any submarine photograph‐ ic equip口 nent you are likely to want,as dive centrestend notto have it on hand.

ぉ′ οs)are (α ′

panicularly sttong in April and

The Atiantic can get nasty in winter,with

more powerilswensthan in summer.This

,1う

and rnost lhire Out ali the neCeSSary gear.

some als。 。fller diver_certincation courses,

including PADI,CMAS,NAUI and FED‐ AS courses.Ylou would bc looking at about 40,000 pms for a beginners'course.You are

is panicularly the case in the nOnh,where

swimming can be hazardous away■ om

Fishing

prOtccted beachcs and rockpoois. Evcn strong swimmers should take care.Use

ty fOrthOsc with a lide of Captain Ahab or

common sense.A good rule ofthumb is to

Emcst Hemingway in thcm.You can get

stay out Of the water unlcss you can see

onto fully cquipped ishing trips iom the main reso■ s.

Other peOple cavorting off your choscn

I:)eep_sca nsilling is another popular activi_

beach.

It is said that dccp_sca nshing is espc_ cially g00d in the watcrs ofF Gran Canaria,

Snorkeiling&Scuba Diving

where morc than 30 worid ishing records

lヽ

hc clear watcrs ofthe canarics onicr g。 。d

havc lbeen sct.

diving possibilities.()f course,we are not

Red Sea or Austraha'sG“ at Barrier Reet

Sailing Forthose、 vith iooser purse strings,it is pos‐

ing but SatiSIら ′

oCean diVing With the ChanCe tO sec a variety ofrays,grouper,barracuda,

sible tO chalnier yachts Or cata:narans for day

turtles,a rangc of tropical■ sh and thc oc‐ caslonal shark.

yacht clubs officr this possibility.´

talking the spectacular rcefs on o資 ler in the

excursions and longer trips.Several of the 「 hc sailing

conditions arc good all ycar round, and

Facts for the VisitOr― Activities 77

COnSiderations for Responsib:oI)iving

.

.

The pOpulanty of diving is piacing imnlense pressure on rnany sites.P:ease consider the fO‖ OWing :〕

tipS When diving and he:p preserve the eco:o9y and beauり 。f reefS:

O nOt uSe anChOrS On t:le reef,and take Care nOttO grOund boats on coral.Encourage

dive operators and reguiatorylbOdies to establish i)errnanent nloo‖

ngs at popu:ar dive sites.

Avoid touching living ma ne o『 9anislns.Polyps can be damaged‐ by even the gentiest contact.Never stand on cora:s,even ifthey look s。 lid and robust.:f you rnlust secure your― ser tO the"eef,。 niy h。 ld fast tol exposed rock or dead corai. Be COnscious of your lns.Even、 ″ithout Conセ 〕 (l the surge iom heavy in strokes near the reef can damage deiicate organisnns.VVhen treading waterin sha‖ ow reef areas,take ‐ care not to kick up douds Of sand.settling sand can easily srnother the de:icate organド isms ofthe reef.

PradiSe and maintain prOper bucyancy contro:.Mttor damage can be done by dive疇 ding wnh the reef.Make suc you aЮ corred!y weighted and that your、 ″ eight belt is positioned sO that yOu stay ho zontl.:f you have not dived 5or a‐ whne,have a practice dive in a p。 。:before taking to the reef.Be aware that buoyancy can change Overthe pedOd Oran e lended t p:initia‖ y you mlay breathe harder and need more weighting:a feW dayS:ater you rnay breathe mo薇 〕easi:y and need!ess weight. Take g“at care in underwder caves.Spend as:敵 !e time thin them as possibie as your deSCending tα )● st and co

air bubbtes rnay be caught M』

thin the roof and leave previous:y submerged organisrns high and dry Taking turns to inspectthe inte"orofa sma:i cave wil::essen the,chances of danlト aging contact. Resist the tennptation tO c。 ￨:ect Or buy。 。rals Or sheils. Aside from the eco:ogical daFnage,taking hOme manne SOuVenirS dep!eteS the beauty Of a Sに e and SpOi:S the erト

joyment br Otheβ

.

The Same gOeS`Or ma

ne arChaeO109iCa:SneS(mainly shipwrecks).Respect their iト tegrty:they may even be prOtected from!oolng by!aw. Ensure that you take home all your rubbish,and any:iter yOu may ind as vⅥ ョ ￨￨.P!astics in pattcu:ar are a senOus threattO ma ne l“ e.Tudes wi‖ mistake piastic lorielけ lSh and eat it.

Resist the temptation to leed ish.You rnay distu‖ Эtheir no■na!eatng hab"s,encour‐

age aggnessive behaviour orseed them fOOd thatis detnmenta:to their hea:th. Minimise your disturbance of marine anirnals.In pa‖ turtles as this causes them great anxiety

ticu:al do not nde on the backs of

there arc pOrts and facilities on all the

your thing,yOu'11■ nd six good courscs in

isiands.

the Canarics.It was rcsident British busi‐

other water spons

nCSSmen who established the Real Club de Golfdc Las Palmas on Cran Can2ria back in

All rcsorts offier thc usual danlp divcrsions,

う rorn water― skiing tO banana_boats rides.Jet slkis abound and lyOu can try parascending (Where yOu dangle beneath a parachute at―

1891.It's stili 30ing strong,and the Spanish g01f hcrO Severiano lBallesterOs plays here 011en.'There's another club atヽ 4aspalornas.

On Lanzarote, the Only course is at the

taChed tO a rOCketing SpeedbOat).

northern cdgc Of COsta lleguise, while on

Goif

Club de GOlfde Tcncrife isjust south ofLa

lf bashing snlall、 vhite balis with sticks is

Laguna and was establishcd in 1932. Thc

Tlenerife thcre are three courses. 1｀

he Rcal

78 Facts lor the Visitor―

Language Courses

Expcctto pay around 2000 ptas per hour

other two clubs are on the south coast near

El M6dano.Allthe courses host various na― tiOnal and internatiOnal tOurnarnehts, and

for individual private lessons.

plans are afoot to sec if yct nlorc courscs

WORK

can't be laid out on the other isiands!

IJnenlploylnent is as big a problenl in the

Canary lsiands as in southern Spain, so

LANGUAGE COURSES

thcrc is no great denland for forcign labour.

A couplc of possibilities cxist thouま

A spc)t of study in the Canary lslands is a grcat、 vay not only to learn sonlething but also to nleet people-locals as、 vcll as other travcllcrs― and get more(of an insidc anglc on linc in the isiands.

,so

you rnight llave luck.If you havc anン ′ COn‐ tacts in the isiands, locals or foreigners,

sound thcrn out,as word of inouth counts for a lot.

Nationals of EU countrics,NoAvay and

BranCheS Of the lnStitutO CCrVanteS(See

useml orgmisations in this chaptcr)can

iceland are allowcd to work in Spain

scnd you lists of places offiering Spanish‐

without a visa,but ifthey plan to stay rnore

language courses in the Canary lsiands. Sorne Spanish enlbassies and consulates

than three months, thcy are supposed to

also have infornlation on courscs.In Spain ursos de contact thc Servicio ([lentral de(二 〕

reSidenCia(reSidenCe Card);fOr infOrnlatiOn on this iaborious process,see Visas(■ E)oc‐

apply within the irst monthお r a tajeta de

Espaiol(● 91 593 1949; fax 91 445 69

urnentS Carlier in thiS Char)tCn Virtually

60),Ca‖ e dc Traね igar

32,17MDSU7o D,

cvcryone clse is supposed t。 。btain,nrom a Spanish consulatc in their country of resi‐

Thc Univcrsidad de la Laguna(● /fax 922

dcncc,a work perinit and, if thcy plan to stay more than 90 days, a rcsidcnce visa. ・ 「 hcse procedures are well― nigh impossible

28010 Madrid. 603345)on Tenerit isiand o∬

ers a varicけ

oflanguage and culture courses to foreigrト crs.Write to:Secret`】 :fa de los Cursos para Extranり

unless you have a job contract lined up before you begin thcrn; in any casc you

cros, IJnivcrsidad dc la Laguna,

Avenida de Trinidad s/n,Edincio 13ccas 2°

,

should sta“ the processes a long tiine before

arange study trips to Spain,although few

yOu aim tO gO tO Spain.Quite a feW peOple opt to work discreetly(less pontcly known αわ″ο″ιg´ο―bl¨ k WOrk)and Skip thC aS′ ′ bureaucracy.

such trips are directed to the Canaries. Finally,sevcral private language schools are dotted aboutthe islands,above allin Las

Thc greatest cinploycrs of forcigners,Par‐

35015 La Laguna,′ Ilenerife. ′ 「 he lnstituto(Cervantes in your country Can alSO SupF)ly a list of organisations that

Palinas de(Gran(Clanaria. Check the local Ye‖ ow Pages(Paginas `Acadeinias de ldioinas'.

Amarinas)undcr

Language courses vary grcatly in dura― tion,cost and depth― your choice depends ´ iargely on your goals. 「 hose with serious alllbitions to learn Spanish will wantto con‐

sider inore intensive classes over an cxtended period. vorth asking whether your coursc It's 、 will lead to any lormal ccnincatc of corn_

Language Tleaching ticularly English speakers, in the(E)anary lsiands are language sch。 。ls.・ ro get ajob, sorne fornlal qualincations such as the RSA First C:ertincate fbr the lleaching ofEnglish

as a Foreign Languagc(TEFL)make an enornlous difference. ・ hcre arc schools on ali thc isiands,but I｀

only in any grcat number on Tlenerine and Gran Canarla. Ylou can start your scarch with thc Ycllow

Pagcs, looking under `Academias de

petcnce. The lDiploma de Espaiol co■ lo Lcngua Extraniera(DELE)is a qualinca‐ tion recognised by Spain's Ministry of

ldiomas'.Gc■ ing a job in onc ofthem is

Education and Sciencc.

papers,although often atlower than nornlal

harder if you're not an EU citizen. Sorne

schools do cmploy people without wOrk

Facts for the Visitor―

Accommodation 79

ratcs.(〕 iving private lessOns is another

accolrnrnOdation options, ie pensiOnes, to

avenue, althOugh unlikely tO bring yOu a

Choose from.Apanmcnts sometimes■

living wage straight away.

this gap adimirably,but not always.Indc_

11

pendent travel is quite viable in the ￢ourist Resons Iigh season wOrk in the isiands' 11lain I‐

Canaries,but there can bc molncnts when yOu wonder if yOu'll find a roorn yOu can

sOns is anOther pOssibiliり ,eSpCCia‖ y if “ you get in there early in the season and are prCpared to stay a while.Many bars,restau―

aflord.

rants and other businesses are run by

guide only.Always check room charges

foreigners,especially in the resOrt areas like

befbre putting yOur bags down.

For obvious reasOns, the prices fOr ac‐ comr,lodatiOn in this book are intended as a

MaSpa10maS and Playa de las Ain6ricas.

lf you have rclevant training,yOu may get lucky and snare work with one of the nlain divc cornpanics.

Busking A tw tmvenes eam a crust(and not much mOre)buSking in the reSOns.

ACCOMMODAT:ON

Seasons&Reservations

Camping

・I'hcre arc Only thrcc oficial camping grounds in the Canary lsiands,and On sOme iSiandS IICC Canlping iS either fOrbidden(eg

La Gomera)Or strictly limited.On Tenerit fOr instance there are 17 grounds― but yOu need a special permit to use them. It is WOrth asking in the tOurist ofices about local canlping possibilities.I)O not assurne that yOu will always bc able tO pitch a tcnt

Priccs a any typc Of accOmmodation may vary with the seasOn. Some placcs have

whencver yOu wish.

scparate price structures for the high scason

conlrnon brand of carnping gas: screw‐ on

。″P。 ″ αaα α″α),mid_season(た ″p。 ″ αグα (′ ″ι′α)。 rthe 10W SeaSon(′ ′″pο ′ ααα b″ α), all usually displayed On a noticc in recep_ tion or ciose by.Hoteliers are nOt actually

bound by thesc displayed priccs.They arc fiec to chargc lcss,which they quite onen do,or rnorc,which happens fairly rarcly. ligh scason in the(〕 anary lsiands runs I‐

Notc that Camping Gaz is the Only canisters are near_inlpOssible to ind.

Apartmenlに More cornlnOn than hoteis are apartrilents br rcnt TO give a randOm idea Ofjust how much more cOrnrnOn they are, the tourist of1lce on La(3oinera has an accOnlmoda‐ tiOn liSt for the isiand that counts 22 hotels,

iom about Decemberto March(including

hOStaleS and penSiOneS,COmpared with 154

the CarlaVal periOd),and thiS iS when you are likely to ind accOmmodttion atits mOst COStly― and elusive.Seainan Santa(Easter ｀/Cek)iS anOthCr buSy time.Summer can

apartrnent blocks.1｀ he quality Of these can vary greatly,butthey can be rnore cornfo」 :_

also be busy, as this is whcn rnainiand Spaniards turn up.

Individualtowns can■ 1l up when a local

able than a simplc pensi6n, especially if there are several of you. In an apartinent you gencrally get a doubic bedrOOrn,bath‐

roorn, 10unge and kitchenettc. In a fcw CaSeS One‐ bed StudiOS(aS′ ″αブ οS)are also

iesta is On,and the smaller isiands can also ■1l quickly for ilnpOnant cclebratiOns. The OVerWhClming majOriけ Ofvisitors tO

availabic.

the Canary lsiands come with accOm:Tloda‐ tion booked.´ 「 his has cenain advantages, espccially in high seasOn, when going it

ahead by package tourists. In the rnain

・ 「 he dOwn side for the indepcndent trav_

eller is that they can olltcn al1 1)e booked

resorts ofTenerit,Gran Canaria,Lalzarote and Fue■ eventura,inany apalniments wOrk

alone can bc difncult. T'he biggest problenl fOr budget travellers

agencics.・ rhey wili sirnply not take in ione

is that there are onen not rnany cheap_end

wanderers whO just turn up.

only with tour operatOrs and foreign travel

80 Facts for the Visitor―

Accommodation

In the case oflnany ofthe srnaller ones,

thc owner doesn't live in or even near the building,so thcre's no point injust tuming

up― you need to call.´「 his

is particularly

thc case lll the three westerninost isiands,

where srnal1 0peratOrs predOininate. As a rulc, the contaCt phone nunlbers will be pOsted at the entrance in these cases.

Solo travellers otten ind theinselves being asked rnore than they would pay for a sinlplc rOOrn in a pensi6n. Apaninents are officially categorised as

Onc tO three kcys.Atthe bo■

o■l

dation with nights at h。 1.lc.The problem here is that you can never rcally know what

yOu are going tO end up with.Make sorne enquiries about what services the apartinent yOu have been of〕 lered has.Is there a pool' A bar'Children's facilitics?

Youth Hosteis With only one oficial youth hostel,on(〕 ran Clanaria,it is hardly wOrth wonγ ing about

becOming a member just to travel in the Canary lsiands.

end ofthe

scale they can cOst as litle as 3000 or 4000

Pensiones,Hostコ :es,Hoteis&

ptas for a double.At the top you rnay be

Paradores

100king at anything up to 16,000 ptas.

c)fncially, ali these establishrnents are Cither力 ο′′′ιS(■ Om OnC t。 ■Ve StarS), ο″ ′S(One tO three StarS)。 rρ ′パ ブ 力οS′α′

If you arrive solllewhere and inoney is liinited,yOu have n。 luck inding a pensi6n and you dorl't sce any ofthe usual signs for

ap″ ra″ θ″rο sル α′ 9“ 〃α (apanments br rent― this applies above all to the wcstern threC iSiandS),keep an eye peCled fOrthe Of‐ ■cial white‐ on‐ red A「 sign, which also denotes apartnlents. Again,in the rnore touristed caStenl fOur I｀

isiands,you will on‐

en ind no vacancy and

littlc willingness to deal、

vith independent

travellcrs.In theヽvcstcrn three isiands,thc

usually small places nlore oltcn than not have no― one in atendance.Rather a phone nurnber will be l)。 Sted and you will have to call to find out what the story is.′ 「 his can sOrnetimes be a trying business. 13ecausc ofthe lpeculiar dificulties sorne‐

times assOciated with apart■ lcnts,and the necd in n10st cases for a phone nurnber,you

should get a hold of each isiand's hote1/ apanment guide ■om the inain tourist ofnces as s。 。n as you can aner arrival. They are o■ en far iom complete,but at least give you sorne infornlation to work with.You can get prOVinCial liStS(WhiCh dO not includc thc bottorn‐ end, one‐ star

options)at the main ofnccs in santa cmz

de ・Ilenerife and Las Palinas de Gran Canaria.

`S

(OnC Or tWO StarS)・

COmpared with mainland Spain,thcrc arc preciOus fcw of any ofthcsc around.Since the bulk ofthe isiands'visitors alTive with

accOmmodation booked in advancc

― catcring apartments ― the demand for inore stand:田・d hotels is usually in villas or self‐

low. ´ rhe Onc‐ star pcnsi6n is at the bo■ om of thc rung and a double roorn without l)ath‐

rOOrn will generally start at around 2500/ 3000 ptas.()食 en no discount is made fOr single occupancy..These places are usually adequatc,although sornc are nlore rundown than others.・「 he second star usually rneans

therc is at least a wash basin in the room. Hostales arc o■ en li■ lc dittiercnt iom pen‐

sioncs.(1)ccasionally pcnsiones comc With diftrent names,cg Cα sα ″ ″″ιsP`″ s (Guest House).In efnect they are ali the sanle thing.

Establishments calling themseives hoteis

range tom sinlple places,wherc a single/

dOuble r00m cOuld cOst around 4000/6000 ptas,up to wildly luxurious,fivc‐ star estab― lishiricnts whcrc your iinagination is often the liinit On the pricc you pay.IEvcn in the cheapest ones there'1l probably be a restau‐

rant and rooms are likely to have an Packages The over,vhelming inajority of people who end up in thc apartmcnts are package tourists who book their accornrno‐

a■ ached

bathrooin.

′s α′ αグ ″ In a special category are the」 υ lο

(。

fnciany′ α′αa。 ″

`sd′

′ ″″′ s″ 。),a spanish

Facts for the Visitor―

slレ lte‐

run chain ofhigh‐ class hotels with six

Food 81

but timc in a propcrtyぉ r your futu“

h。 li_

establishments in the Canaty lsiands.These

days.

can be l″onderill places to splurge.・ 「 hey also oflier discounts for staying nlore than one night,and for senior citizens.｀ ou can

aCCOmmOd■ 10n(■ Om a COttage thrOugh tO

lζ

The cost valables are many.Thc type Of a luXury reS。 ■ apaltinent),itS 10CatiOn and

Central de Rcscrvas(Central Booking

the SeaSOn in WhiCh yOu Wantthe time(high SeaSOn Will COSt yOu mOrC)W‖ l all a“ CCt thC

Service;● 915166666;fax 91 516 66 57),

cost.

book a roorn at any paradOr through their

(:〕

alle de Requena 3,28013 Madrid.

Find a repumble manager whcn buying a tilneshare.In Europc,your arst stop should

Casas Rurales Convc口 led farinsteads or village houses sometiines R)Hn the only acco■ lmodation OptiOn in Out― oFway places.They a℃ o■ en a highly ageCable。 メiOnお r thOSe Seeking to escape the noise and bustle ofthe rcsolts and head into thc countrysidc.It is bcst to

call ahead, as they usually Offer limited places. Since thcy tend to be away frorn rllost public transport,you wouldn't、 vantto justtum up“ one only to be turned away.

be your country's member ofthe European

Timeshare Federation. The Timeshare Council in the UK(● 0171‐ 8218845),23

Buckingham Gate London SWlE 6LB,is a founding mcnlber ofthc fcderation and can advisc on tinlcsharc purchases and nlan= agcrs.When you sign a tirnesharc deal,be sure you are granted a`cooling ofF'period. ´ 「 his allows you to back out if you decide it's not such a hotidea.There is an ELI‐

wide

directive rnaking such a period cornpulsory

Prices start at around 6000 ptas for a double

in ali tirneshare contracts in Europe, and

(Single OCCupanCy raCly attmCtS a rCduC‐

Spain was due to ratitt this clausc in March

tiOn)・

1998.

Ti,Tleshare

Tax

lt is estinlated that as many as three inllllon

Vil■ ually

people`、 round the worid buy their slice of holiday pleasure in adv`■lce this way.Time‐ share involves purchasing a block oftime in an apa“ inent Or resOn that yOu elcct tO use

all accornrnodation prices are suttectto IGIC,the Canary lslands'indirect tax,charged at a rate of 4.5%.This tax is

oftcn included in the quoted price at

regularly for your holidays.()f course

cheaper accornrnodation places, but less oftcn at the rnore expensive ones.In some

nothing is to stop you lending or renting out

cascs you wi1l only be charged the tax ifyOu

your booked tirne to third partics if for whatever reason you dccide notto use your

ask for a reccipt.

annual allocation.

You rnay well corne across tirneshare

F00D

touts ifyou hang around the nlain resorts in

The cuisinc ofthe(3anary lsiands renects a wide range of influences,fl・ om Spanish rc‐

thC Canary ISiandS.IfyOu teltaken enOu鰤

gional to global fast food.´

by the islands to consider、 vanting to rcturn repeatedly fOr your holidays,tinleshare may

be worth considering― but you should be iou want to careful about how you choose.・ ツ be sure that the place you choosc has the lou need to sec all ainenities you want. ・′

「 ravcllcrs can,if thcy wish, stick to thc resollts and eat English breakfasts,ish and chips and imi‐

tation pizzas,all washed down with your favourite nolthern European lagei 13ut that

would be a shame.The Canaries is not a

your rights and obligations clearly in

scaside outpost ofenlpire,but a fascinating archipelagO whosc culinary delights are too

writing, especially where manageinent

oflen overiooked for the casy, known

cornpanies prornise to,sell your tinleshare

options. If you have an even slightly ad‐ venturous approach to your travel,let your

for you ifyou decide to buy a ncw one.Re… rnenlber that you are not buying property,

taste buds experirnent too!

82 Facts lor thc Visitor―

Food

Mea:Times First a● ustment-locals eat at times Ofday

when rnost of us wOuldn't dreanl of it! Breakfast(acsの ′ ″″。)is aboutthe only meal ofthe day which takes place abOutthe sarne time for everyone― that is,when yOu get up! The SeriOuS Cating Stans with lunch(′ α Cο ″Fdα Or,leSS COmmOnly,ι ′α′ ″ ο″ Zο ): “ 。n, theね mous sicsta time,the mid_anem。

take several differcnt forrns, including C`″ ツ ″ 」 αS(beer barS,a VaguC equiValent ofthe``θ pub,although sorne bars take On the

narne `pub't00,as seems tO happen right

across western Europe!).In rα ι′″″αs Style Wine barS) (mVemS)and bο ″ you can sOrnetimes `gaS(01d― get a decent rneal too. TYζou rnay begin to notice a 10t Of bars ap‐ parently called Piscolabis.Tヽ lo,this is not a chain.A′ ′ S`ο ′ αbお is simply a place where

is actually reserved by rnany locals 10r this,

you can get sandwiches and Other prepared

the main rneal ofthe day. While(Clanarios tcnd to cat“ home with the family,thcre is plenり 。faction in the restaurants tO。 ,start‐

snacks with your beer or coffbe.

ing about 2 prn and continuing unti1 4 pFn.

This iate start sets the tOne fOr the

In rnost cases you can get a tapa with

your alcoholic drink, although yOu rnay have to ask spccincally.standing at thc bar rather than sitting dOwn can。 食en save you

evening procedures too.If you turn up:R)r

10%to 20%ofthe bill,especially whcre the

dinner at 6 or 7 pnl,you'1l be cating alone ― if the restaurant is even Open.()f cOurse,

tables are outside on a picturesquc terrace Orin a l)。 Sh attached dining roonl.

in the nlost heavily tOuristcd areas the restaurants レ′ ′ ′ ′be open to catcr for thc

Restauranヽ

strange habits of foreigners, but you'1l be

unlikely to scc a single(Canario dining in

them.Dinner(`θ ″α)is onen a lighter meal for your average Canario,although this is

not to say that they eschew restaurant

R′srα ン ′ α″′ as generally Opcn おr lunch and dinner(sec Meal Times aboVe),unleSS they haVe an at●ChCd bar,in which case they may be open rightthrOugh the day.Most ofthcnl close one day a week and advenise this fact with a sign in the

outings.In any event,dinner begins,at the ′ earlicst, about 9 prn. 「 he bulk Of 10cals 、 vouldn't seriously considcr wandering in to

window.It is cornrnon practice tO display a menu(ω ″′α),usuany with prices,。 ut thc

their favouritc cating house until 10 pnl.As with lunch,the evening:neal can easily last two or threc hours― a leisurely and highly

also be advertised,but quitc o■

social affali

(E)f course,this docs not inean that out―

side these hours y(ou can't eat in the Canaries! Snacks arc an inlpoltant part of the SpaniSh Culinary heritage, particularly

the barsnacks knOwn as ra″ αs,abOut which inore later｀ Ylou can usually pick up a quick

fi・

・

I｀

ont.Any taxes and service charges should en are nOt.

he scrufner places rnay not display any

prices at all.

Variations on the theine include the ″′S6″ (traditiOna‖ y a plaCe fOr Simple

home cooking, although this is often no

10ngerthe CaSC),ε ο″θdο ′(Ht鯰 1ly a dining Ю Om,uSually a■ aChCd tO a ba Or hOtCl), ツθ″′ α (rOadSide inn)and ″α″ ′′″ (SeafOOd SpeCialiSt).

`S,″

bitc to cat to tide you over until the ntain

meal tinles swing around.

Stapies Nowadays,a good rangc oftypical Spanish

Where to Eat

food is widely availabic in the isiands,

Caf6s&Ba奥 ,Hanging

around in bars and cats,or simply dЮ pping byお r a quick

pttly tO SatiS,the rあ S(SpaniardS)WhO

cameine or alcoh。 l iniection,is an integral pan Of life in the canaries.s。 lnetimes the

for iocals and interlopers alike.

distinction between caf6s and bars is a little

hard to pick,since cOfiFec and alcOhOl are rnorc often than not available in ibOth.Bars

livc here,partly to widen thc chOice On Ofllcr

′

「 he basis ofthe 10cal cuisine is,hOwever, rather narrovピ , traditionally restricted tO what the isiands produced for thernselves. ´ I｀

he staplc product par excellence is

Facts for thc Visitor―

gqβ ο,a uniqucly Canario product.A roasted

Food 83

prefcr you can beefit up a little though by

mixturc of whcat, lnaize Or barley, g。 ■0

ordcring some orange juice(z″ ″。 a′

takes thc place of bread in the average

″α′ αiり α)and perhapS a rο

Canario's dict.・ 「 hcrc is no shOrtagc Ofbrcad

sandwich or roll.

″)theSe dayS,but g。 ■O rCmainS COm‐ (′ α ■lon. It is sonlething of an acquired taste and,mixed in varying proportions is uscd as a breakfast food or conlbincd with alinOnds

´ and igs to rnake swccts. 「 he Spanish

author Antonio Muioz Molina recalled in

И″ ′ ″G′ θ″ , his rccollectiOns Of cOn― "り script days “in the 13asquc city of San lο

Sebastian in northern Spain in thc 80s: Pcpc Rif6n had organised a kind of Lcnin― ali contributed 、 vhat we could and whcrc

cvcrything was shared, whether drugs or food packets sent by our fanlilies.1｀ he only o,

that pa,sion ofourchums iom the Canaries _.who at our lit!c fbod fests,when they had just received sOmc packar nrOm their isiands,

、 vould tcar opcn thc l)ackets `)f

g。 ■ 。and

shovc nstfuls of the stuff int。 thcir inouths with the greed of cxilcs who, lorthc irsttimc in years,savOur a long lost navour`You r,lainlanders are the dopes not liking go■ o,'they'd say. `It's God's own food'.

(:)ther basic raw nlatcrials long cornrnOn across the islands are bananas and tOma‐ toes, but no、 vadays the markets are ■1led with a wide range of fruit and vegetables. Bccf,pork,lamb and other meats arc widely aVailable(lagCly impOrted),but traditiOn‐ ・ a‖ y gOat(ε αら ″ α)and kid(ο αら ′7わ )me■

wcre, and renlain, the go. Most local cheescs comc■ om gotts'milk tO。

tOasted

Locals would nevcr do it, but you can order cggs in one lol司 r,l or another for break‐

fast if you nccd to,cspecially in the morc touristed areas, where CanariOs arc quite unsurprised by foreign t`疑 ,tes.You can have yOur″ ′a′ οS(eggS)■ ied(′ ′ わS),SCrambled ″a′rο s― deinitely nOt nOnnal breakfast (″ `l′ fare fOr ioCalS)and hard‐ bOiled(ι οε′ JοS). Sorne peoplc havc c力 ″″ ″ οs σο″ο′ ,ο σ ο′ α′ ・led doughnut dipped `― a kind of deep‐ ■ in thick dark cllocolate― for brekkie

ist cell,a clandcstinc cornrnune to which wc

thing we never managed tO share was go■

srα ″ α,a

.

The Canary lslands owe a lot to Colum‐

bus;it was iom South America that such elementary items like potatocs,tOmatOes

Snacks Bar snacks,or tapas,arc a rnainland impOr‐

tation.They rangc iom a tiny saucer with an olive or two and a thin slice of cheesc through to quite substantial and deliciOus

mouthfuls of anything frorn chips to seafood.These are prOvided at most bars as

an accompaniinent to your beer or wine. The idea is to stiinulate yOur thirst,and gen― era‖ y

it works.There was a tiine when they came nree.Quite。 食en now there is a small charge,and occasionally yOu actllally have to aslk thc barnlani for the tapa.(〕 enerally thcy arc on display― the bannan will gcn_

erally choosc whatcver hc fcels like and present yOu with it unless yOu inake a spc_ cinc request. A larger version ofthe tapa is the raci6n. ゛ Y`ou always pay for this and three or lour raCiOneS nlakes a pretら ′decent rneal. But

you could evcn survivc a night on becr and tapas, cither propping up the one bar or doing the rounds ― a popular and highly agrecable pastirnc.

like avocados,Inangocs and papayas,were

The Other Standard SnaCk(Or″ ′″ ″″dα )iS the bο ο α′f′ ′ ο,or bread roll.Typically this will be a rather dry affair with a slice ofhain

introduced.

Oα ″

and corn,and soine inorc exotic delights

Breakfast For those of us unaccustomed toく [)()ntinen‐ tal practices, breakfast is a niinsy afFait usually involving no nlore than white cottice

and a paStry(bο ′ あ)taken at a ban lf yOu

)anJOr ChCeSC(9γ ωο),Or a Wedge Ofわ `″ ″″′ α′SPα 力ο″ (pOt江 0 0melCte). All over the isiands iyou'1l notice littlc

cateries known as α″ ο αS・ This is where ′′″ you can Order yOurselfan α′ α,basically a `′ lightly deep‐ ■ied crispy pocket ofcommeal dough with a potatoey navour and stuffed

Food

84 Facts fbr the Visitor―

witll chicken,checse,ham,or whatevcr you want.It's a Venezuelan impo■ and makcs a really■ 1ling snack,usually costing not much nlore 300 ptas.

9′ ‐

ngure as eithcr

starters or side dishes.

Canary isiands'ISpecialities Away fl・ o■ l thc standard Spanish fare,and

Main Meals The traveller's ilend in the Canary lsiands,

as in mainland spain,is the″ θ″′ ι′arFα ,a `ィ

sct rncal availablc at nlost rcstaurants for

lunch,and occasionally in the evening too. (:〕

lι ″ι ァ ′ sas, or starters of various kinds.」

sα ′ αdαs(salads)commonly

enerally you get a starter or side dish,a

main dish,a simple dessen and wine fOr a inodest price― which hovers ι round the 900 ptas rnark at budget establishinents and can

rise to 2000 ptas and even beyond at posh places. (〕 anarian cuisine is good and rcasonably varicd without being overly inlaginative.

the rnany bland, tourist‐ oriented `intema― tional'style restaurants in the rcsOns,theκ is a genuine local cuisinc.

´ hc rnost obvlous Canarian contributiOn I｀

to thc dinner table is the″ 90.This sauce has inany variants and is used to dip pretty

inuch anything in―

・ om chicken legs to

￨■

go■ o.Sce the boxed aside. Pα′αS α′ ″gα ααS(Wrinkly

pOmtocs)are

“ best knoⅥ Tl dish,although perhaps the next thcre is really nOt much tO them.′ rhey are

basically smali new potatoes boilcd and

Although inuch of it heavily renccts inain― land Spanish tastes, panicularly fI。 ■l the

When dipped in One Ofthe in010S.POtatOCS

south,Latin Ainerican innuences are also

were introduced to the isiands frorn Pcru in

evident.The Muslim heritage in s、

the 1600s,and connoisscurs idcnti″

veets and

the usc of certain spices likc curnin and samron Кmind us ofthc ccnturics of Arab COntr01 0fSOuthCrn Spain(right up until the

timC OfthC COnqueSt Ofthe iSImdS). As a result,you'1l sce plenty of classic

mainland Spanish dishes,including′ αθ′ ′ α (samrOn_rice cOOked with meats and/。 r seafood ― though at its best with good Seaお Od),わ ″ ″〃α (OmeleiC),g`υ′αε力ο (a

salted in their skin and only corne to life

at lcast

23 varieties.

0,fthe rnany soups you'11■ nd,one typi‐ CaHy Canttian Vaiant iS′ ο′ ″′αιιarrο S, or watercress soup. Another is ra″ ε力ο ο,a kind of broth with thick noodles εα″α″′ and the odd chunk ofrneat and potato― it's very hearty. Cο ″c′ ο′ ″sα ′ ′ ″ο″ οis rabbit in a lnari― `υ nade rnade of watet vinegaち Olive oil,salt

cold,tonnato‐ based soup usually available

and pepper, sweet black lpu(lding and

in Summer Only),V`riOuS Sο″αS(SOupS)ald ′ ε力οS″ ο″″″οS(kCbabS).

avocado.Although now considered a pillar

″ ″′″ α (beef or veal),c′ ″ a。 (pork),`。 _ σヵ′ ″′ 〃。 (suckling pig), 。。ra′ ″ 。 (lainb), ′ ο (ChiCken), `α ら′ルο (kid meat)and ′ο′ Cο ″ 9ο (rabbit), 0貴 en aCCOmpaniCd by ′α PaS′ frα S(ChipS).YOur mCat may bC dOne α ″ ′α″〃′ α (gincd),α sαd。 (r。 ぉted)。 r q力 dο Or′ ″ε力′″ (SteW). COme in an ω′ αS(ChOpS)arC pOpular,and ifyOu are C力 ′ ′′ “ yOur own ineat,the l■ inced version buying is known as cα ″ ″θ′たαaα Othe:"vise you will have the choice of many kindS Of′ dο (lSh)。 r″ α ″おσοS

with mqo.On La Gomera you might get a

`″

Main rneals will generally consist of SOme fOrm Of οα″″′ (meat), inCluding r′

.

(Seaお Od).

`SCα

ヽ 4our nlain dish can be preceded by′ ″‐

of local cuisine, the dish's origins lic in distant Arag6n. Sα ″ε οεみοcα ″α′ノ οis a salted―

■sh dish

chance to tuck into b′ ′gο ″′´ ο,basical― `力 ly saltcd tuna stolmach― it tastes a lot better than it sounds! If you take the tinlc to circulatc around the islands, you'11 1Π nd rnany variants on

standard dishes and quite a few iocal spe―

cialities.Experiment and enioy!

Vegetarians

・rhe canary lsiands rnay seem like paradise to sorne,butthey can be morc like lpurgato‐

ry fOr VCgCtarianS, and WOrSe Stili fOr vcgans.・This is nleat‐ eating country,so you

Facts for thc Visitor一

Food 85

Will ind yOur ChOiCeS(unlCSS yOu CatCr fOr

winning cow‐ shccp. checse mix is the

yoursc10 a little limited.Salads are OK,and

′αs′ ο″,lrom around Arucas.

you will corne across variOus side dishes SuCh aS S`′αS(muShrOOmS,uSually lightly ■ied in OliVe 01l and garliC).Other pOSSibil‐

itieS inClude b′ ″ ′′ ヴ′″αS (aubergineS), ″′″ α(a hearツ VegCtable SteW),′ sp`″ ′ αgο`S″ S(aSparaguS)and Other VCgetables that are sometirncs cookcd as side dishcs.′ here

Ofthe goat chccses,Fuenevcntura's″ α― ル ″わ ,a Shま tly¨ idiC,Creamy CheeSe,iS probably the most highly sought aner. The cheese of EI HicHo,9″ ′Sο 力 ″ ο `力 is also lnuch prized― and outside the `′ isiand costs considerably morc than at horne.

,

I｀

are a few vegctarian restaurants in the big‐ ger ccntres.

Tlab:e Tla:k

Here are slornc basic words that can corne in

handy whatever kind ofrneal you're eating:

Desseds&Sweelに yOu inay ind yOur deSSert OptiOnS(′ οS″ 1′S)

bill(CheCk) bread

limited to tiineless Spanish favOuritcs such aSノ α″(Crё mC Caramel),力 θ′ αdο (iCe cream)

breakfast butter

()n an ordinary day in a nO‐

nOnsense catery,

or a piece of fruit.

13ut the(1,anarios′

lο

have a s、 vcct tooth.

`″

changc

o′

cold

"0,ο ′idα

And if you are disappOinted aner your

cup

rncal,the best thing you can do is head fOr

dining‐ roorn

σ

the 10Cal′ αS′ ′′ αね (Cake ShOp)and in‐

dinner food,rncal おrk

cο

dulge yoursel■

ι`"``b7 ′″

Ю

ｍ

ｍ ”

ｇ ｈ

are a favourite toOth‐ rOtter, and yOu shouldn't nliss the 9″ ′sα グ」 ′ ′ αs of El

Ｓ んで Ｓ

are b“ ″″aSα ら `S(a kind thiCk StiCky goO rnade of alrnonds and Of honey― deadly SWeet!),′・α″gο ′ ′ ″グα′ οS, ′ ′ αS, bレοο οS `力 ′S″ αJο S and′ ″″ ″ dι θ′ αZα (m。 laSSeS “ “ nOugat)・ `″ La Palina's honey‐ and― sugar″ alρ α′″″ αs

ね zて ,

ａｄ ｌ

Some ofthe better known sticky sweets

′ α

c“

′a" ″ `ク “" ″′ ″′ a夕 2′ ′ ′ α

lce

Jam knife

lunch

menu

`,

"′ `し ″ ′′b′ `′ ツ● SO。 =`0】 oα ′ ia″ ′ a '4 たた′ ο 〃″ ′ ´´lα c“ "′ ″ο `″o,2ο or ιο″::′b ′,"“ ′ ´ `0ア ′ ′ セ `′ ′:′ε″ ο″И “′ Oο ′ ο ￨′

llierro― thcy'vc been inaking this cheesy‐

nlllk olive oil

CinnamOn paStry(SOmetimeS alSO made

paStry(eg

with anisccd)sincc the Middlc Ages.Mο み ε′ ′ ′ aS′″た′S(SWCCt b100d SauSagCS),madC with grapes, raisins and aln10nds are a

a CЮ iSSant) plate

rathcr Odd cOncOctiOn;perhaps the closest

salt

″o ′′ ″,′ ″′ ′ ′′ s● ′

cornparison is the Christinas mince pie

sauce

sa′sa

consunled、 vith such relish in the UIく

spoon

C“ ● 力α7`タ

.

sugar

Cheese (〕

pepper

oat cheese is produccd across scvcra1 0f

the islands, but thc best l(no、 v:l checse is prObably thC 9″ ωοdθ ノ 7ο ′ .´ hiS iS nlade Of 「

7 `Z:``α

tablc

蒻10,α

vinegar

Vi″

waiter/waitress

oα ′ ,`′ gπ ,′ lα

`:″

Food G:ossary

a rnix of cow's and sheep's ntilk, then infused with the aroma of ЛOwers lrOm a

Deciphering a mcnu in the Canaries is

type OfthiStle(t¨

always tricky.HOwever much yOu already

σ αあα ′ σ α 薦

0・

It iS prO―

duced cxclusively in“ thc (〕 uia area `)f northern Cran Canaria. Another prize‐

know,therc will always be dishes and clx‐ prcssions with which you are not farniliar.

Food

86 Facts for the Visitor―

Moio RIsing Lying atthe crossroads ofthe trade routes between impenal Spain and her vad pos‐ sessions in Laun Amenca,the Canary:slands、 ″ere opened up to inluenCeS nOt on:y

frOm the`mOther cOuntry',but a:so"om the developing colonies in LatinAmenca.Ex‐ piorers and traders brought a weath of new vegetabies,fruit and herbs from the new te

t。

les to Spain,dropping samp:es orin the Cananes along the waメ

Amongthem

was the humble capsicum(ρ imゎ nfο )and vanous kinds Of chi‖ i peppers,Or gυ ゎd″_ ′ as.

JuSt Where the O ginal″ 7(υ Oメ 06″ Came frOrYヽ iS unknOWn.itiS a SpiCy SauCe rnade '′ a dip lor a huge vanety Ofゎ 。ds_脅 Om papas ar_ with red chi‖ i peppers and used as

rugadas to chicken喘 "ngs.There areparticular atleast spin 20 vanants puttheir own on it. on this saucy theme,and 900d chefS o■ en try to Preparing your own m可 o is not pattcula‖ ソdittcul.Forthe standard mqo pic6n, try the fo!:owing recipe:

′ ″g“die,お :

Har a cup of。 live

oil

VVater Eight srna::c!oves of gadic,peeled C:uarter cup of、 ″ine vinegar

Foursma‖ T、

,fresh red chi‖ i lX'ppes(more if you can bke the heat)

″o ripe torTlatoes

Half a teaspOOn of cumin

One to加 o teaspoOns of sa!t Half a teaspoon of paprika

Meめ Odf Pour allthe。 live oi:into the blender and add the paprika,cumin,vinega1 9anic and sak. 3oil the chi:!i peppers in half a cup of、 ″ater for about 1 5 FninuteS,then add tO the mixture in the b:ender ″larvie unti!the skin Putthe tolT:atoes on a ske'w'er and lightly roastthem over a lo、 is dry.Renlove the skin,s:ice,up the tomatoes and putthem into the blender lB!end unti:yOu are!et with a thick,smoc,th sauce. WOu Can Vary the ingredienお

quite a!ot,forinstance by adiusting the nurnber of chilli

peppers you inc!ude.Sorne peop:e llke to add a dash of pepper and even oregano to the mix.:f yOu ind、 ″hat you have rnade is too hot,add more o:ive oii and vinegar bd‖ ut it. :fyou dOn'tlike it SO hOt,yOu COuld tFy the″ ,(ツ10 Verde.ThiS iS Very taSり With lSh,

here ed upl″ h cheese as a starter This is a rni:d version l″ and is sornetirnes ser、 ′ r green capsicum. yOu ep!a《 冷 the red hOt chi‖ iw 訥 “ Farsiey and c‖ an廿 0(cOnander)。 The nけ 01ο de C″ a″ 二 ″ 。iS pa"iCu:ady pOpular On■ enenfe owing,l is sald,tO the One_ .The tnck with this m可 。 iS t:me presen《冷 。fac‖ antr。 ■Oving POttuguese cOmmuniり tO nne:yc■ lsh the fresh cilantrO shO威 ly befOre the m可 。is eaten,because after a wh‖ e the ci:antro oxidises. lMI切io C。 ′ οradο :eanS mOre heaV‖ y On thetOmatOeS and!eSS On the Chi‖ mao pic6n and adds a bi of zing tOjust about anメ hing.

ieS than the

Facts for the Visitor―

協崚 カ ンル “”為・ ル

The following list shOuld help yOu with the

`SP′

basics at least. oll

“ α′ ,:″

tuna

olive

脚輸

water

ｃ ｌ ｍ ・

avocado alinond

bean

anchovy

′α″らaSα “ ′′′′ メ

θ′ ′ θ “εθ′ α ″ αg“ α “ αg″ αοα′ θ C′ ο α′ ″9α S α′ ″θ″α″ α α′ ″ら′ α α″ οα α″`力 OZ

″αοαS

Ⅲ `"溜 “ ら″ αsα

salted cod beef steak

tuna a kind ofanchOvy, usually served in

vinegar char‐ grill

οαcα 力 ′ `′ “ εα′ αらα cI″ ια′ αbα zα ια′ dο

軸…

εα′ α″α″s οα″ ηο

i響 。

εαZα

hunt‐・

『 ε αz″

α `′

ιο′ ′ α ε′″ ι Zα ι力α″P′ ο″as ο物 ″ ο″″ 27 `θ

″あ `:′

′b″ αaα a`′ε θ ″α″ααα

`,″ sα 7″ α ′α

`″

as′ α ″ ″ αgο s

■llet crerne caranlel

rasp“ リ strawbenγ drled bean

iled ■■ lit

ong

biscuit,cookie

gα ′ らα′ ″子 ο

prawn,sh chickpea

gッ プ ″dF′′ α

hot chilli pepper

Pお α″た

pea

″レ ル 諄 "Oπ `“= ル″ ″′ ●“ dο ″a71′ ら,じ,′ 力七´あ ″gο 々″〕 ο わ 7配 aあ あ′ ′ :zos

brmd“田

師鵬

F口

樹薔Fle C Ch呵 m、hЮ

馳l認 嘲 sea bass

sweet

nour lCe cn,田 11

mint liver

ng oven b“

d

Ver● “ bleS

`α

herbal tea

ノ ノαらα′ ′α

wild bOar hain

'2,0″

αS b`α ″ο αS ル α二 aFasッ οd`s ノ″ “

buttcr beans

′ α″gο s′α ′ α″gο s″ ″ο

spiny lobstcr

grecn bcans

iarge prawn lettuce

pulse

′ ι″g″ α ″′3`αdο た″′ 9■ s ″″α ′ ′ ″ あ″ο `″

tongue

″α″′α″′ ″α

tangerine

ple Sヽ Veet bread(Of lard)

asparagus

mp

hambu● er

ブ ψ S勧

響励

σOε ′ ″ :α

ed bean

vcnllicelli noodle

gα ′ ′

たた

`oα

typc ofd

sl『

“ν

ο″′″ `'" oァ ″ο `力 あ

spinach

rice

`″ gα ″ら α

レじユて 夕 ο Oお ′ ′た め ガわ

Food 87

sole lcntils

lime lenlon pork loin

swect corn

88 Facts fbr the Visitor―

D)rinks

′ ,,α ″ Zα ″α

apple

sα ぶ ヒ ′ ′ ″α

sardinc

″の′ ο″ι Sα ″グ あ ″θ S ″ο′ οιοあ″

mayonnalse

S`σ 0

dry,dricd

nlussels

Sι l′ Iα

cutlensh

″0″ ′ α 〃′″′ ￨″ α ″た′ ″90 溜οκ″′ α

nlint

″α′α4′ α ′ ,α ″

peach

nlountain‐ cured hain

brains

hake

s′ ′ α

wild inushroorn

honey

S(υ α

soy

salsa/saucc

sο

blood sausage, ie black pudding

rα

orange crearn

nut,walnut;

あ″″′ ο

sirloin

cakc tomato

″′ α わ″αた ′ 0″ ′ α ″″ο′ ,α ′ ″″0″

round flat bun,cake tЮ

alinond nougat

plural″ ″ ′s `ο

gape

να

ο′ ′ α Os″ α

pot

“

oyster

′α ρas α″ gα あ s “ ′αSα ′αSた ′ ′αわ ραツ0 ′θεみ″gα ′ ″z `″ ιg″ ′ ″α ρο´ Z ι Spα αα ′ι ο ′,cα″F′ ′ ′たα″た ″′ ι″わ ′′ ′ α '″ ″ο″ ′′ α″ι力α ρ′

、 vrinkly potatoes, Se″ ed With″ ″ο

ν′εα,ε α′ ″′a′ ν ′ α′ ν`gι agι ′ α′′ α″ο/α ッ′グ″′ α “ zα ″ α力ο″′ α zα ′ z“ ο ′ α

dra″ ο ′′ ′ο′ ″ι

banana stew,pottge

turkey brcast,of poultry

vegetable vegetarlan green vegetable scallop carrot

ish stew

DR:NKS Nonalcoholic Drinks cOree cOfice in the canalγ lsiands is

panridge scallop

swordish nlinced ineat

hot,spicy,piquant pCppet CapSICuFn pineapplc Ｏ ｅ ｄ つ江 ︲ ｃ ， ｌ ｐ

ｇ“

lο

paSり,Cake duck

ｅ ” К ｌ ｎ ｉ ｒ Ｈ ¨ ｔ ・ ｌ ． ｐ ｇ

′ 0″ 0 “ ′“わο “ ″ αP′ ′ιοzα ′ /α “ ″:″ 0″ r(7′ ′ ′′ο

ralsin

beef

strong and slightly bitter.Addicts should speci″ how thcy wmttheir ix.AcCμ ω ″ ′ ′ο力θis about 5094 coffiec,50%hot inilk; ask for g″ ′″d`。 ra。 ら′ ′ifyou want a large Cup(uSually a breakね St requeSt),ο ′ναSο if

you want a smaller shot in a giass, or ifyou wantiots ofmilk.A`名 ″‐ SOわ

″ α sο ″ら

is a shon black;σ α′ ″ οο″′ α″ο is a sho威 blaCk With a li競 le milk(in thC iSiandS Of ・Ilenerine province kn。 ゃ vn as′ α′′ α′to dis_

leek

“ tinguish it,om other versions,as will

octopus

bccomc clcar).For

batered ald iled kidney

ose who like it hot,be α′ た″た。 surc to ask that any ofthc abovc is ε A caf6 solo or cortado can cost as li■ lc as 60 ptas. 1・ here are sollle local variations on the

stufモ led

αdο α theme in the Canaty lsiands.Cο ′′

monkish

εο″′￨`″sa′ is a short black with condensed ` milk;ε ο″ ′ αdο d`セ σ力 ″c力 a is the same with a little standard`ツ rnilk thrown in. It lο

sα ′ αa。

ltod.鯰 l●

sα ′ εカメ εみα

“l 掟

sα ′ c力 ′ ε力

cured sュ 1lsage "rk瞼

sα ″ α `α

`′

watemelon

鵬 age

sornetirnes comes in a larger cup and is thcn called a bα rrα ク″ブ ′ 0.下 140u can alsO havc yOur

Facts for the Visitor―

barraquitO ε ο″′ ′ σο″Or Cο ″α′ εο力οムa Shot

ofliquor usuany accompanied by a shred of lemon and sOmetirnes solme cinnamOn― this

Drinks 89

′ αis a Valcncian drink Of lsiarnic Origin. Made iom the juice of οカイ カ (tiger nuts),

is the authentic ι α″ ″ α ′ ′ ο,as any CanariO

sugar and watcr,it is sweet and tastes like soy rnilk with a hint Of cinnamOn. lriOu'11

will let you kno、 v.A、 good barraquito cOsts `“

corllc across it both fiesh and bottled―

as lnuch as 200 ptas.Strangely,these vari‐

chun is a delicious brand.

ations on the caffeine themc seenl all but unkno、 vn in the prOvince of I.,as Palinas,

Fruit Juices savc the best until last.Fruit

whilc in thc wcstern isiands thcy are as

juiCes arc popular with Canarios.Not just bOring。 ld Z″ ″οα ″ θ″ α α ″α(Omnge juiCe, which is perfectly gOod, especially with

common as inuck. In thc casternrnOst isiands yOu will be asked if yOu want your milk σ ο″da″ Sα dα Or′ ″″′ dα .

For iced comec,askお r aqμ

″力′ ′′ ο :

`ο cup Of yOu'll get a glass of icc and a hot cofFlee,to bc poured Over the ice― which, SupriSingL dOCSn't al melt Straight away!

Sugar added!),but StraWberl)′ ,papaya and a host of others tOO. Thcy can be a little pricey at around 300 ptas,but are generally

wo威 h it.One thing yOu'1l notice in inany bars in the bigger and inore afnuent centrcs

are the loads ofnlangOes,papaya and other iuitloaded upjust waiting tO be cOnve■ ed ￢ea Whilst cOoibe is generally preR,lTed,tea is served in mOst ca“ s and bars.The b“ w (a tea bag)iS inVariably Weak and locals

Aicohoiic Drinks

drink it black.Ask for milk tO be separate; otherЧ ′ ise,you'llend up with a cup of■ 11lky

VVine Spain is a great wine― drinking and producing country, and plcnty of winc is

Water With a tea bag thrown in.Most places alSO haVC CamOmile tea(彪 d`″ α′ πα″′ ′ ′ α).

consurned in the(〕 anary lsiands.11｀ hc 10cal wine― inaking industry is rclatively nlodest,

C)hocolate Spaniards brOught chocolate back fiom the New Worid and adopted it

but you can cO,rne acrOss the occasional goOd drOp. ′″ο COmeS in White(b′α″εο),red(″ ″わ) 。r roS6(″ οSα グο),and iS genCrally pretty

enthusiastically.At one tiine it was cven a

´ fOrm Of currency. 「 he Spanish scrve it thick; sOrnetiines it even appears on the pOStκ S(deSSC■ s)section ofmenus.Gener‐ ally it's a breakfast drink cOnsurncd with churTos;see the lFood sectiOn.

Soft Drinks R● ′ scο s(cO。 l drinks)include the usualinternatiOnal brands Ofsont drinks, i夕

local brands such as Kas, and expcnsive F“ ″αあ (iCed fruit CmSh). Clear,cold water iOm a public lountain

ortap is a Spanish favourite― but check that it's′ ο ′ αb々 .For tap watcr in restaurants, aSk fOr α ν α″ ψ .B。 ■lCd Water(%“ α

″ブ ′θ″ の COmeS in SeVCral brands,cither 『 still(sル gα s).Al.5L iZぅ ′(ο ο″gas)or bO■ le Ofagua inineral sin gas costs 75 ptas

in a supenτ larket, but out and abOut yOu may be chargcd as rnuch as 175 ptas.

Aらα′ ′ Jο is a navOurcd■ lilk

drink or milk

shake;the bOttled varicty is sickly.″ ο´ α_ `力

into liquid.

cheap,especially if yOu buy it at the super‐

market.In restaurants, if you are nOt t00

particular about brands, you can simply Orderthe hOuSCWine(ツ 物οda′ αοαSα ),WhiCh also tends to be the chcapest option too. ([)ne of the rnOst cOininOn wines across thC iSlandS iS the″ α′ ναS″ (malmSCy Wine,

also pЮ duced in Madeim).It is genemHy SWeCt(グ ′ οι),althOugh yOu can ind the “ εο)VerSiOn. It iS partiCularly Odd dry (Sθ

common on La Palma. ´

Ilencrifc is thc principal sourcc of wine, and the red Tlacoronte AccntcJO Was the irst

Canarian wine to cam the grade ofDO(″ `― ″ο″J″ α ″Jο ο′ Fgθ ″ ).ThiS tCnn iS One Of `あ rnany ernployed tO regulate andjudge wine and grapc quality,and is one do、 vn flom the

coveted DOC label(aι ″ο″′ ″α αι `′ ο′ 7g`″ ε α′ εαdα ).Other prOduCtiVe `″ VinC‐ :/〕

yards are in the lcOd and(〕

´

uinlar arcas Of

renerife. In Lanzarote,the vine has cOme

90 Facts for thc Visitor―

Entenaininent

back into vOgue since the carly 1980s,and in iate 1993 the isiand's nlalvasfas were a、 varded a lE)(). Wine is produced on the other isiands too,but the quality is general‐

ly not as good.

Beer The mostcommon way to ordcra beer α″α,WhiCh iS a νι Zα )iS tO aSkお r a σ (ι

`′ ・ツοZα d`bα ″ ガ′Or Small draught beer(σ α ′ν ′￨`′ ιsf`″ ).A pint‐ sized version is `σ `zα “ Called aブ α′ ′ α ・

Ifyoujustask b a cerVeZa yOu mり rt 〃F″ and bo■ led beet usually called a bO′ ′ more expensivc than■ e draught stu“ The Tenerife‐ brewed ale is Cclvezl CCC Dor―

Have a Cigar Smokers who have been dゴ ng to try a Havana dgan bd have not yet had the chance,couに :dO wOrse than pur On the ! 10α日

。, mOstly hand rOned with ρυ″

tobaα x)on La Palma.The methods were

bЮught back by Юve"e migmnts iom Cuba,and aLhough not quite up to the

sbndad of the mal McCoy,att not a bad substitute― they are a:so cheap, and aval:ab:e across the is!ands.

ada,and it's ine.Cen・ eza Tropical,a little lighter than I〕 )orada, is the lllost popular beer in lGlran lCanarla. Even in out of the way places you'1l usually have the choice of at least onc bo■ led ilnpo威 ,such as IIeinc‐

α″ αis a shmdy,a beer with a dash kcn.Aσ ′

Gran C〕 anaria,and the discos and folklore

shOws put On fOrtOurists in the main resOn‐ s, there is generally not an awnュ 11。 t on in the line of urban entcitainrnent.

of lenlonadc.

Listings

Other Drinks Apa■

■o:n the inainland SpaniSh iinpOrtS,inCluding brandy(ο ο力αο), ′″′ ′(1lkeSChnappSOr thegrape‐ baSedag・ ″α ′ `′ ″ ′ S grapp→ and a Whole “ hOtt Of Other′ たο

(HquCurS),yOuCOuldtwSOmC10Cal■ κ WatCr・ Althoutt thc suga plmtations hⅣ e all but gonc,、 vhat remainsis putto good use in

the prOductiOn of rum(´ο″).The Ron de la

α Check out local papers such as ια Gα οι′ ′ ′ 4ν ,sο s for enteinainrncnt list― or D′ α″ ο ings.The national dallies E′ Pα お and E′ 拗 ″dο also have a brief rundo、 vn― check ″ α.・ rlourist Ofices under the hcading(31α rra′ ′ l′ lι

can infornl you about rna,Or upcorning events.

Aldea ofL′ a Palrna is considered the best of

Cinelmlas

them.Rο ″ ″た′ ,or honey rum,is more

Cineinas are concentrated in Las Palinas de

liqueur than runl,but interesting enough to

Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz dc Tenerife. Otherwisc a fcw are sca■ ered across sec―

taSte.Quite a tW liqueurS are prOduCed in the isiands, includingi the banana‐ based σοbα ″α.Botll this and thc honey in■ n arc

produced above all on Cran Canaria. Another one is″

,sた ′ α,■ om

La Gomera―

it is a inixture of wine,sugar,ruin and solmetimes honey.A potent taste! Another impo■ ■o:n the mainland is gr`α ,a wine and iuit punch solnetimcs sα ″ iaccd with brandy. It's ren・

ondary towns on the main isiands,as well as

in Santa Cruz de la Palma.You will be lucky to ind any foreigll161ms which have not been dubbed into Spanish.(:)n average, going to the flicks costs 700 ptas, unless yOu pick the cineina's chosen cheap day,or ￨`′ as,Pac′α ′ ′ (usually wednesday), a7`α グ ￨。

when it will cost about 400 ptas.

eshing going

down but can leave you with a sore head. ■′ゎ Jθ ッ α″οis a mix ofwinc and Caser■ `″ a brand ofleinonade or swcct,bubbly water.

ENTERTAINMENT (1)utside the lllain cities on llencrife and

Ba棗 ),Discos a Nightc:ubs Solmc holiday‐ makcrs come to the Canarics to do little nlore than party and thcn sicep ofF the results on the beach. 13ut the out‐ siders are not the only ones:late nightline is

in the local blood.

Facts for thc Visitor― Spcctator Sport 91

ThurSday m saturday niま tS are alWayS the wildest,and once yOu have found the pa“ of town Or yOur resort where ali the barS are CluStered(aS tendS tO be the Ctte)

you wOn't need to nlovc far to keep busy bar―

hopping all night. Many locals don't

think of going Out untilあ

out midnittt,al―

thOu」 lthere iS nOthing tO Smp yOu making an carlier start.

BIars,which come in ali shapcs,sizes and

Palma,La Golnera and EI Hierro are all fairly quiet.

Live Rock,Pop&Jazz l_′

ivemusicisaliveandkickinginthcislands,

although thc quality tt times leaves some‐ thing tO bc dcsired.still,there Frc some nュ n

local bands arOund,and OccasiOnally good inainiand and internatiOnal acts cornc to town.:Look out formusic festivals.

thernes, are the main attractiOns until around 2 or3 am,after which yOu can movc tO thC diSCOS and Various nitttclubs unti1 5

Fiarnenco

′ Ilouristy pcrfornlanccs of nanlenco can bc

or 6 ani― or later!:E)iscos can bc expensivc,

seen in sonlc ofthe rcsOrts and as a l■

and some won'tlet yOu in we"ingjeans or trainers,but they aren'tto be missed ifyou

to be avoidcd.Although sornc aspects Of namenco rnigrated to the isiands i針 。:n

can manage to it. All this is truc of the inain urban centres

southerin Spain, this is nOt its natural context, and rnost perfOrinances yOu are

and resorts.In fa‐ ■‐ her

likely tO see are sornething ofa travesty.

nung corners ofthe

isiands the ternpo can be rathcr nlore slo、 v, although you should be able tO ind the Oc‐

CaSiOnal bar opcn until about 2 ain, and perhapS even the odd disco or nightclub.La

1lc are

Classicai lMlusic,Dance&Theatre For tllc culturally inclined, the cities and

some ofthc bigger tOwns arc the places tO looki for classical music,dance and theatre.

They onen corne in the fonm.。 f festivals. Theatre is almost always in Spanish.

it's a Cay 01d Lib The Canary :s:ands are gay lEurope's Winter escape p:aygrOund.c)「

rathei the

P:aya del ing:6s on the.,Outh side Of

Gran Canaria is.A seemingly endless string of bal、 , discos and c:ubs are

SPECTATOR SPORT Football Across Spain.μ めοr is a national pК occu‐ ′ pation. 「 his is as nluch the case in the (1)anaries as elsewhere, but Only One local

side,Club iDeponivo Tcnerife,is in the

crammed into the Centro comercia:

Yu:Tlbo, right smack in the heart of the Playa del:ng16s area.!tis predo口 linant‐ iy a gay Fnen'S SCene,a:thOugh Of COurSe this doesn't stop slna::numbers of:es‐ bians and stralghお from wading in. Litt!e happens bef。 ぃ e lo pm. FrOFΥ

:

Primera I)ivisi6n(■ rst division)一 and only just!In the Segunda I)ivisi6n,the nextrung

dOWn,the Canales ae reprcsented by UD Las Palmas,which holds its Om atthe top ofthc ladde■ Three other isiand teams play in the even

then unti: about 3 am the bars on the

lower Segunda:Divisi6n B,which is divided

fOurth ievel ofthe Yumbo centre bearthe brunt of the fun, ater which the‐ ciubs

into four regiOnal sectiOns. Still,the 10CalS take a pre"aCtiVe inter― est in thc big tearns and thc Copa del Rey,

and discos on the second !evel take oven At dawn,peop!e stagger outfOr some reSt.Some make forthe beach at Mas‐

pa:omas across the dunes, which are thernseives a busy gay‐ cruising area.

thc Spanish version of the FA Cup, is as kcenly followcd in the Canaries as any‐ whcre else in Spain.Ifyou're arOund whcn there's an internatiOnal clash,discretion is

probably the bctter pan Of va10ur_if yOu are not backing Spain,then kecp ittO yOur‐

sein

92 Facts for thc Visitor―

1｀

Spcctator Sport

o sec a first‐ division garnc whilc in thc

islands,you'1l have to wait until C'I)´

Ilencr‐

titions of、 vorid― chanlpionship level,、

vhich

can attract thousands of spectators. If you

ife is playing at home at the Estadio

like this game so nluch that you'd like to

Heliodoro Rodrigucz L6pcz, close to the

vレ

centrc of to、 vn.lY「 ou can gct tickcts at lcast

compctitions are duc to be held during your

ー α9ク ノ ノ ′ αs(box ofnccs).Tickct prices stan at 2500

stay.

a weck in advancc at thc stadiurn's′ ptas.

Volleyba:! ´ 「 his is a popular bcachsidc garnc across the rcsO‖ is Of thc Canary lsiands, and it can

atch it,ask the tourist ofIIcc if any nlaJOr

Bu‖ nghting

Until a few years ago,thc occasional bull ■ght uscd to be staged in the Canaries.I〕 ut it is not a particularly popular spectator sport here and thc cost oftransporting bulls

sornetinlcs get a littlc nlorc scrious.With an

and bullightcrs iom the inainiand was in

idcal clirnatc,thc isiands oRen host compe―

any casc prohibitivc.

The canaries'1lreird lⅣ Orid Of spOns Lucha(Canaria・ The Cuanches of Tenerife were a particu:ary robust and warlike crowd, 、 、 ′ ho loved a triat of strength.Any isiand party was an excuse forindulging in tests of manhOod,and apart frOm iunlping oVer Steep raVineS and diVing intO the oCean frorn dizzying heights,one favourite pastime was wrestiing.Rooted in this ancient d:version lies the essence ofthe rnodern′ υc力 a cara″ a,Canarian、 ″restling. Bul:fighting is not a noセ ably popu:ar activity in the Canary isiands,but sand rings en,hOwevei nngs are tO (ca‖ ed rerre′ 。s)still ind their use fOr a litle cOntact sp。 ■.o曖 ‐ be found in rnodern buildings known as′ υc力 ade“os.Lucha Canaria is practised through_ outthe islands.Teams of up to 12 face ofFfor an a■ ernoon of a kind oftag‐ tearri wrestling rnatch that is,howevet notthe si‖ y stufFsome ofyou may have come to associate with TV spectacles like VVorld Channpionship VVrestiing. A nnernbe『 of each team faces o「 in the ring and,after a forrnal greeting and other signs of goodwill,they set abouttrying to dump each otherinto the dust.The idea is that

nO pan Ofthe body butthe so:es ofthe feet rnay touch the ground,and whoever fails frst in this department ioses.Each pair ightit out in a best of three cornpetition(each

CiaSh iS knOWn aS a bnega),and the team Wlh the mOSt Winning WttStleS WinSthe WhOle

show There is rnore skil!to this than is perhaps at irst apparent.Size and weight are not the determining faCtOrS(althOugh theSe bOyS tend tO be aS beefy aS rugby frOnt― rOW f。 「 WardS), but rather the Skill With WhiCh the COmbatantS grapple and rnanoeuVre their opponents into a position fronl which they can be toppled.This is not a violent sport, and kicking,punching,pinching etc are not permitted.卜 listorically,the lucha was staged for iestas but alsO Onen as a rneans Of resO:ving disputes. The Canarios,or atleast some ofthem,take this a:l rather serious:y,and there is a

ma,or league conlpetition known as the Copa Presidente de:(3obierno Canarias. Clashes at this ievel are o■ en televised.

lf you wantto lnd out where matches are being held,callthe Federaci6n de Lucha Canaria(● 922251452),Ca‖ e」 6n del Capitan Brotons 7,Santa(Cruz de Tenerife. de′ ρ a′ο(litera‖ y stick game)started or in preconquest days as anything but a game.Two combatants would arm themselves with heavy staves and

egο Stick Fighting Theノ υ

´ Facts for the VisitOr― hing tO Buy 93 「

TH:NOS TO BUY

duty■ ec in Canaly lsiands airports or on

Shopping in the C〕 anarics has one spccial at‐

the flight back hOnlc.￢ 6ou will allnost ccr‐ tainly ind the same iterns forless in norrnal

It iS Vinually tax iec(the 10Cal indircct tax,thc IGIC,is a measly 4.5ツ 6, traCtiOn・

comparcd with VA「F of 169/6 and more thrOughout the rcst ofthe EU). Elcctronics,watchcs,pernュ ines,tobaccO,

storcs in thc islands.

The prcstigiOus Spanish stores, such as Corte lng16s and Co■ lcncl,have branchcs in the main centrcs in the Canary lslands.

alcohol and thc like are thc 16rst iterns that

you should investigatc,but evcn things ilkc

jeanS can be a good buy. Lcvis can cOst

Flea Markets

around 7000 ptasin the Canaries,mOre than in thc LJSA, but better than the priccs in London stOres.

nea market,。

In any case,don't bOther buying g00ds

Sorne of the biggcr tO、 vns have a wcckly r″ α sr″ 。 .′へ 、1。 t ofthc stuff on Sale is junk,but occasionally yOu can ifind sorne intcrcsting Odds and cnds.

StOneS and atenlpttO break aS many bOneSin their OppOnent,'bodies as possible.After the arrival ofthe Spaniards,the`ganne'becanle incleasingly marginalised to rurai areas, and became more a tr:al of skilithan a vio:ent blood sport. The sport,if such it can be ca‖

ed,is still practised th「

Oughout the islands,and there

iS eVen a federatiOn deVOted tO it.The Star iS of Sturdy wood and about 2nn iong.The StiCk gOeS by VariOuS narlleS,ba″ Orin Tienerlfe and′ ara in Fueneventura.YOu are most !ike!y tO See a demOnStratiOn Ofthe luego del pa10 atiocal iestas Another sportinvolving poles is the′ υc力 a arga″ iolo,invoiving stililonger implerT:ents. 1り

ieia Latina(C‐ anaria,Since the end of the 19th century,the diminutive sail‐

cum‐ row

boats,which once functioned as ferries beh″ een the great ocean‐ going vesseis and docks of Las Pairnas'port,have been salled in a form Of regattal unique to the(:)anary

lslands. For more on this see

the boxed aside in the Las Pa!mas section of the Gran 《 E)anaria chapte『

cOckfighting cananOs may not be avid bul119hting fans,but the cocknghting business still has its

aicionados.The sight of angry feathered beasties arrTled v th spurs attenlpting to slice each

other to shreds is an acquired taste.As with bu‖ fighting, iも suppOtters will beg tO direr, taking pride in their cOcks and

assuring you that this is what they are bred to do― it's what they′ ′ 々e.You'￨lneed to be in the

know to getto see this,and rnay

not wantto anyway

′

94 Facts for the Visitor― 「 hings to Buy

VVoodwork

look first for ccramics is the unassuming

The Canary lsiands'pine,chestnut,mulber‐

he rnore harnlet of Arguayo, in the west.´ authentic stufF is generally not glazcd.

ry and becch trecs are all sources oftirnber for the can/ing ofvarious houschold irnple―

rnents ranging nrom ladies and sp。 。ns, through bowis to a kind of tweezcrs lor picking prickly pcars. ´ 「 hc local version of castanets,kllo、vn as

ι力′ια′αs,11lake a nice souvenlr itenl.

I｀

Musical instrunnents lf you have a hankCring fOr a timplC(a ukelelC‐ StylC inStrument),eVen in reduCed

size for display only, Fuelteventura is the place to look.

Baskeヽ lvare α ″) Bお ketS and Other Simll額 0● eCtS(C‐ ′

fashioned ofpalm leaves,rccds,wicker and CVen banana leaVeS arC pOpular(thOugh nOt pa Culaly Sturdy)itemS.

On La Gomera, in panicular,this is

Liquor,Cigars a Honey

´ rhc rum ofLa Palina is rcputcd to be a ine drop,as are the strangc concoctions made

with it.Honey ruln is one ofthcm,along α on La Gomera, with such items as″ お″′

sOmething Of a ine a■ fonn.You'1l also

and nOnalcOholic liqucurs made with

ind such products on La Palirla.The Lan‐ zarotc■ os concentrate nlorc on the straw

bananas.′ 「 hese are all hard to ind outside the isiands and can■ lake original gifts.

verslon.

E:Tibroidery,Lace a Silk ヽ Vo:Tlcn in ccrtain parts of the islands,such as EI Hierro,stili nlake their o、 vn thrcad and

weave bed spreads,rugs and bags on prim‐

itive woodcn iooms. E:T:broidcrcd tablc c10ths and napkins also rnake convcnient and tastemi souvcnirs.EmbЮ idery isinね ct one of the most widcly available quality handicrans in the canary lsiands,and only in La Gomera is there li■ le or nothing to speak o■

Ingenio(Gran Canaria)isね mousお r ´ einbroidery, and vilanor in 「 iencrinc

its

is

knOwn for its high‐ quality lace. For silk, keep lyour cycs peeled on the isiand of La

Palma. Cera:￢ ‖cs E〕

ven before thc Europeans arrived, the

Guanches were atthcir most anistica‖ y ex‐ pК SSiVe in their pO■ ery(α ι ′″″).YOu Can 力″ pick up sonle nicc,simple pottery pieces at

nlarkets on thc island of La Gornera.Ifyou get to the village of Chipude, check out their、 vares.

C)n the isiand of Tlenerife, thc place to

Embroidery from■

eror,

northern lsla de(3ran Canaria

Facヽ fbr■e Visitor― ThingstO Buy 95

Cigar smokers should stock up on the cigl四 rs sa口 ne

inade in La Palma along inuch the

lines as the Cuban versions.■ 'hey are

cheal.

Honey,some ofit made nOt by bees b耐 pam mp,is al。 ■er pЮ duct you Te liblyゎ come acЮ ssin the wes"m islands and Gran Canana. wi

Ge

ng There&Away

With an agreeablc all― year― round clinlate, the Canary lsiands are an especially popular h01iday destination with Europeans,partic‐

then and loss,cancellation ofand delays in

ularly those colming iom thc wintery

doctors or hospiセ 1ls direct rather than you having to pay on the spot and claiin laten lf

yOur traVel alTangeFnentS. lY7。

nonhenl reaches.As a rcsult,there is no

u inay prefer a p。 licy whicll pays

you have to claim later make sure you keep

shO:tage of air links beween rnany Euro― pean cities and the isiands. Sea links are

all docurnentation.Somel'01icies ask you to

fewer, and as yet it hasn't occulTed to

Call baCk(reVerSe ChargeS)tO a CentC in

anyOnc tO try digging sorne sort of sub‐ At‐

y()ur horne country where an imnlediate aS‐

lantic tunnel bct、 veen the isiands and Europe or A■ ica. IE)espite its proxilnity,ヽ 4orocco does not represent a good― value launching pad ft)r

sessnlent ofyour problem is rnade. heck that the policy covers alnbulances or an einergency night holTle. Paying lor your ticket with a credit card olRlen provides lirnited travel accident in‐ ([〕

nights to the canarics,and direct nights t。 the rest ofA'ica are close to noncxistent. It is pOssible to book nights■ om North

surancc, and you rnay be able to rcclairn payrncntifthe operator docsn't deliven Ask

and South Arncrica, o食 en routed through

your crcdit‐ card cornpany what it will

rnainiand Spain.・ 「 hese tend not to be super cheap,and Onlen yOu are better ofFgetting a

cover

cheap flight to London and booking a

health‐ care card or equivalent and any nec‐

EI_' citizens should take their national

charter iom there.

essaryお rms(Elll)wi■ them to avail

Those coming iom Australasia win deF initely want to consider getting a

thernsclves of lヒ Oe Spanish health care in

the Canary ISiandS(See alSO Heahh in thC Facts for the Visitors chapter).Note that this cover sirnply entitles you to basic

g00d_value ticketto a malor European hub, such as iLondon or Ainsterdanl, and then king a chaner night to the canaries. b。 。

ininirnum state health care and may not al、

Travei lnsurance

″ays be adequate for your needs.

AIR

A travelinsurance policy to cover the食 ,loss

and rnedical problerns is a good idca.The policies handled by STA l｀ ravel and othcr student‐ travcl organisations arc usually goOd valuc.Sorne policics ofFier lower and higher inedical‐ expense options;the higher ones are chicny fOr cOuntries such as the

Although increasingly airlines do not

USA,which have cxtremely high incdical

you nsk tunling up at the airpo■ only to ind you've inissed your flight because it was rescheduled,or that you've been clas― sl■ ed as a`■ o show'

COStS・

ThCre iS a Wide VariCり

require you to rcconflll.your nights,par_ ticularly within Europc,it is probably safcr to en・ on the side ofcaution and do so in any case.・ 「 he rule of thuinb is to reconinn at ise least 72 hours before departure.()ther、 ′

。f poliCieS

available so check the snlall print.

sonnc policies spccincally excludc`dan_ gerous activitics',which can includc scuba

diving, n10tOrcycling, even trekking. A

Airpods&Air‖ nes

locally acquired lllotorcycle licence is not

need to pay a surcharge for expensive

All the isiands but La(3ol■ lera have air‐ pOrts, and one is being built there too. 〈ran Canaria and Lanzarote 1・ cnerife,

carllera equipment and the likc. Standard

absorb the bulk of thc direct international

insurance should at least cover luggagc

nights and those from inainland spain,

valid under sorne policies.AIso,you onlcn

[〕

96

リ

﹂﹁

Чロ

is:a de Glran Canaria

Tlopi Sunset at F)laya de Maspalornas,southern:sla de Gran Canaria Botomi Casa de Co16n(ColuiΥ lbus'House)in Plaza deI Pilar Nuevo,old centre,Las Palrnas

DAMI圏

SmOMS

ONM:EN SIMONIS

:s:a de Fueiteventura Top Left:C)!d volcano behind Casa de:os Coroneies,La(Э Top!Right:1「 radlional mil:near Teia

htom:Famer and goat at old m‖ ,ead of Beね ncuna

:iva

Geting There&Away― Air 97 USA,you win probably ind tha the cheap‐ est nights a口 rc advcniscd by obscurc bucket

whilc the others are principally for intcris―

land nights.

Thcrc aκ two main ai■ )。 ■S On Tenerit. TencrirNorte(Los Rodeos)handles the in― terisiand nights and some schedulcd inter_ ′ national flights. 「 he remainder of the schcduled nights and viltually ali chanicr flights to the isiand arc channelled tO the

morc modcm Tcncrit Sur(Reina So■ ′

shops、 vhosc naines haven't yet reached the tclcphone directory.´

hey sell airline tickets at up to a 509′6 discount、 vhere places have I・

not been■ 1led,and although airlines may clainl the contrary, many of thern relcasc tickets to selected bucket shOps― it's better

o.

he bulk ofinternational flights scrving the isiands dircctly are chates. F｀

From Spain, Air Europa, Iberia and

to sell tickets at a huge discount than not at

all.Many such irrns arc honest and solvcnt, but there a・

e a tw rogues who will take

your inOney and disappear,to reopen else‐

spanair all ny to the canaty isiands.Thcy

where a rnonth or神

connect the isiands with international desti‐

nanle.If you feei suspicious about a■

nations,but mostly such nights are routed via Madrid.

don't give theril all the llloney at once― leave a deposit of 209′ 6 or so and pay thc

Buying Tickels

balance when you gct the tickct. If they insist on cash in advance, go sorncwhcrc clsc.And oncc you have thc ticket,ring thc

Depcnding on where you are coming,om, the plane ticket could bc thc single rnost ex‐

pensive item in your budget,and buying it can be intimidating.It is、 vo■ h putting aside

a few hours to check the rnany travel agents

hoping to separate yOu fiOm yOur mOney. Start carly― sorne of the cheapcst tickcts

have to be bought rnonths in advance,and sorne popular flights scll out early.′

()later llnder a nc、 v 1■

｀ iou rnay decide to pay rnore than the ツ fae by optingお rthe satty of a better known travel agent.Fin■ s such as rock‐ bo■ om

STA,who have ofnces worldwide,Council Travelin mc USA and UK or Travel CUTS

Ilalk to

they may be abic to stop yOu rnaking sOrne ofthe same old inis‐

inagazines, consult reference books and

Fare Su‖nng

watch for special o量 lers..Then phone round

Tomorrow's trave:ier may never even

travel agents for bargains.(Airlines can supply infoI・ rnation on routes and timcta‐

bother phoning a trave: agent. Fare‐

blcs; howcvet cxcept at tirnes Of interairline war they do not supply the cheapest tickets.)Find out the fare, the route,the duration of the jOurney and any reslictions on the ticket(see the Air Travel

Glossary).Then sit back and decide which is best for you.

'14ou nlay are`nュ discovcrllythat those ilnpossibly chcap nights b。 。 ked,but we have another one that costs a bit nlore...'.10)rthc flight is on an airline notorious for its poor

booking se‐ n′ ices are loxpanding rapid:y On the inわ met.9i‖ inl● inね nり くeSti‐ rriates of vvo‖ dwide on‐ !ine trave:sa:es

we照 )USS500 mi‖ 三 on in 1997),the Web loOkS SettO becЮ me a m可 。rtnVei mar‐ ketplace.Sabre,the tJS‐ based tave:‐ reser、 ′ atons agency,,which accounts for a third Of a‖ b。 。kings wOnd、 Mde(mOst

Of them thЮ ugh traVel agentS),

launched ns On■ ine Trave:。 cw serv:ce in nnid‐ 1997.Another US site,Farelnd― en traw:s the al『 ‖nes‐ reservations system fou『 times a day!oo輛 ng for the

satty standards.Orthey claim only tO have

latest night dea!s. it cOncentrates On

the last two seats availabie for yOur desti=

l:ghts frolm the USA,but is bound to expand.

nation. I〕

)on't panic and keep ringing

around.

If you are"avening iom the UK orthe

,

airline to con■ rm that you are actually b。 。ked on the night.

other recent travellers―

takes. Look at the ads in newspapers and

■

98 Ge

ng There&Away― Air

in Canada are not going to disappear

number down, together with the night

OVemi』 t,lC∼ ing yOu ClutChing a reCeipt

nurnber and other details,and keep the in― lol■ rlation soinewhere separate.lfthe ticket

for a nonexistent ticket, but they do offer good prices to most destinations. (E)nce you have your ticket, 、 vrite its

is lost or stolen,this will help you get a re―

placernent.

Air Trave:Glossary Apex Apex,or`advance purchase excursion'is a discounted ticket、 ″hich must be paid lorin iadvance.There are!pena:ties if you wish to change it.

Ba99age A:lowance This wi::be w ten on yourticket:usua‖ y one 20kg item to go in the hold,plus one item of hand:u99age. Bucket ShoP Arl unbonded trave:agency specia!ising in discounted aldine tickets. Budget Fare・ These can be booked at:east three、 ″eeks in advance butthe actua!trave: date is nc,t conlrmed unti:seven days plorto trave:.

Bumped:JuSt beCauSe yOu haVe a COnl日 ned Seat dOeSn't mean yOu're gOing tO get On the p:ane― see(Dverbooking. Canc● :iatio口 IPenalties:f you have to cancel o「 change an Apex ticketthere are often heaVy pena11leS inVOiVed.lnSuranCe Can SOnletiFneS be taken Out againSt theSe penal‐ ties.Some al‖ ines irnpose penaLies on regu:ar ticket,as、 ″e:l,particularly against`no shoM〆 passengers.

check■ nA‖ ines ask yOu b checkin a α〕nain time ahead Ofthe light depanuЮ (uSua‖ y One OrtwO hOuに On intematiOna1 lighも ).:f youね i:b CheCkin On time and the nightis overbooked,the aidine can cance:your booking and give your seatto somebody else. confinnation Having a ticket w ten Out with the night and date yOu、 ″ant doesn't口nean you have a seat unti:the agent has checked with the aldine that your status is`《 )K'or COnl日 ned.Meanwhile you could just be`on request'. Discounted Ticke● There are two types of discounted fares― o価 da‖ y discounted(see

Promolonal Fares)and uno輛 cia‖ y dis(x,unted.The iowest pnces oten impose draw‐ backs:ike lying with unpOpu!ar aidines,inconvenient scheduies,or unpleasant routes

you may and connections.A discounted ticket can save you other things than illoney― be ab!e to pay Apex prices without the associated Apex advance booking and other re‐ quiEments.Dis∞ unted ticke"only exist where there is lerce competition. c:ass(cЮ ded J)and Full Fa田 )s Ai‖ ines traditiona‖ yo椰 er irst‐ class(coded F),business・・ e∝ )nomy‐ c:ass(coded Y)lckeb.These days there are so many promolona!and dis― COunted fareS aVailab:e frOm the reguiar eCOnOmy C:aSS that feW paSSengerS:Day the fu!￨ econonly fare. Lost l「 1● kets:f you!ose your ai‖ ine ticket an ainine、 ″i!l usua‖ y treat it like a trave!iers

cheque and,ater inqui enti」 ed

es,issue you w"h another one.Legaily,howeveL an ai‖

ine is

to treat it!ike cash and ryOu lose itthen it's gOne`Orever Take goOd care Of yOur

tickets.

No Sho)vじ s No shows are passengers who fai!to show upf。 「 their light,sometirnes due to unexpected de:ays or disasters, sometirnes due to simp!y forgetting, sOmetirnes

because they nlade n10re than one booking and didn't botherto canoe:the one they didn't

、 ″ant.Fui:―fare passengers、 ″ho fai:to tum up are sornetirnes entiled to travel on a later night.The rest of us are penansed(see Can(Ю ‖ ation PenaLies). C)n iRoquost Ari unconlrnled booking for a night,see Conirrnation. Open Jaws Areturn ticket、 ″here you ny outto one p:ace but return from another lf avail‐

Geting Thcrc&Away― Air 99 You should use thc farcs quoted in this book as a guide only.Thcy are apprOxirnate

sarily constitutc a recornlncndation for the carrlcr.

and bascd on the rates advertiscd by travel

agents at the time Of going tO press. ・rhe quotcd air fares in this bOOk do not ncces―

Travellers with Speciai Needs lf you havc special needs Of any sort―

able,this can save you backtracking tO your arrivai pOint. Overbooking′ へirlines hate to ly erTlpty seats and since every light has so:T)e passen‐

up(see No Shows),aldines oten book,T10re passengers than they have seats.Usua‖ y the excess passengers ba:ance thOse who fai!to shc,vv up but oc″ casionally sOmebody gets bumped. :f this haplpens,9uess who it is most like!y to be? The passengers who check in late. Promotionai Fares Omcia‖ y discounted fares like Apexね res,ava‖ ab!e青om travel gers who failto shol″

agents or direct fronl the airline.

Recon■ nnation Atleast 72 hours p orto depa"ure time of an on、 ″ard or retum light, you must conね ctthe alline and`reconfrm'that you intend tO b0 0n the night.:fyou dOn't do this the aidine can de!ete your name from the passenger:ist and you couid iose your seat.ヽ riou don't have tO recOnirrn the lrst iight on youritinerary orif your stopoveris iess

than 72 hours.lt doesn't hurtto reconnrm rnore than oncモ ). Rest ctions Discounted tickeお oten have various restrictions on therl―

advance pur‐

Chase is the most usua:one(see Apex).Others are restndions on the minimum and maXimum periOd yOu muStbe aWay such as a minimum of14 days ora maximum ofone year.See Cance‖ ation Penaities. Sitandby A discounted ticket where yOu only ly ifthere is a seatfree atthe iast口 noment. Standby fares are usual:y Only avai!ab:e on domestic routes. Tlcket3 0utArl entry requirementFor many cOuntries is that you have an onward orreturn ticket,in other、 ″ords,a ticket out ofthe country.:f yOu're not sure what you intend to do next,the easiest so!ution is to buy the cheapest onward ticketto a neighbouring cOuntry or a ticket frorn a reliab!e ai‖ ine which can later be refunded if you do not use it. Thansferred.Ticket5 Airiine tickets cannot be transferred frorγ l one person to another Trave‖ en,sometirnes try to seli the return half of their ticket,but Of〒 icials can ask yOu tO prove thatyou are the person named On the ticket.This is unllkely to happen on donlestic lights,but on an internationa!light tickets rnay be compared with passp。 戯s.

Trave:Aglencies Trave!agencies vary wideiy and yOu should ensure you use one that SuitS yOur needS・ Sonle Simp!y handle tOurS Whi!e fu!l‐ SenriCe agenCieS hand!e eVen′ lhing frOm tOurS and tiCketS tO car renta:and hote:bookings.A goOd one、 ″i:!do allthese things and can save yOu alot Of money,but r a!l yOu wantis a ticket atthe lowest pOssible price, then yOu rea‖ y need an agenCy Specia!ising in discounted tickets.A discounted ticket

agency,hOvreveL rnay not be usefulfor otherthings,like hote!bookings. TraVel PeriOdS So:Tlo o輛

cia‖ y

discounted fares,Apex fares in particu:aL vary with the

tirne of year There is oten a low (011-peak)SeaSOn and a high(peak)Season.Some‐ tirneS there'S an intermediate or shou!der season as、 ″el!.At peak ur71eS,ヽ″hen eVeryOne ヽ ″ants to ly,not only、 ″i!i the olficiai:y discounted fares be higher but so will unolficially discounted fares or there may sirnply be no discounted tiCkets available.Usua‖ y the fare depends on your outward light― if you departin the high season and return in the low season,you pay the high‐ season fare.

100 Getting There&Away― Air you've broken a leg, you're vegetarian, travelling in a wheelchait taking the baby,

worid for discounted air tickets, and the place abounds with bucket shops offering

terrined of nying_you should let the

deals to the canary ISiandS.'TheSe are On‐ en

airline kno、 v as soon as possible so thatthey

in the fonτ l ofpackage holidays,but sirnple rctum chaner nights are also plentiml.

can rnake an・ angernents accordingly. You

should rernind thern when you reconfirrn your booking(at lcast 72 hours bcbrc dc― parmre)and again When yOu CheCk in atthe airpOn.It iΥ lay alsO be w。 ■h ringing rOund the airlincs before you inake your booking to ind out how they can handle your par‐ ticular needs. Airpoits and airlines can be surprisingly

hclpful,butthcy do nccd advancc warning. Most international airpol■ s wili providc escOns ttOni check‐ in desk tO plane whcrc needed,and there should be rainps,lins,ac_

cessible toilets and rcachable phones. Aircran toilets,on the other hand,are likely

to present a problern; travellers should discuss this、 vith thc airlinc at an carly stagc

and,if necessary,with tlleir doctor. uide dogs for the blind will olRIen havc to travel in a specially pressurised baggage (:〕

cornpartrnent with other aninlals, a、 vay lrorn their owner; though sinaller guidc dogs rnay be adinitted to the cabin. All guidC dOgS Wili be SubieCttO the Same quar‐ antine laWS(S mOnthS in iS。 latiOn etC)aS ng or rcturning any other aniinal when ente to countries currently lLce ofrabies,such as

For thc latcst fares,check out the travel

page ads ofthe Sunday newspapers, 7,″ ι O″ ′ .All a℃ ,rⅣ r and I蚤・c力 α′g′ こ ル(α′′

available■ om most London newsstands. Another good source of inforrnation on

― cheap farcs is the nlagazinc βフsf″ ο ss 7ン αν ´ ′′ ′ ′′. rhOse with access tO Tleletext On telcvision will find a host of travcl agcnts

advcrtising just as in the publications alrcady listcd.As in No威 h America(see

bC10W),thC IntCmCt iS anOther pOSSible sOurce Of infornlatlon. Most British travel agents are registered

with ABTA(Association of British Travel Age■ s).If you have paidお r your night with an ABTA‐ registered agent who then goes bust,ABTA wili guarantee a refund or an altclmativc.tJnrcgistcrcd bucket shops are riskier but so:netirnes cheapci

One of the nlore reliable agencies, al‐

though not necessarily cheapest, is STA (● 0171‐ 361

6161 for European nights).It haS SeVera1 0fnCeS in Iン OndOn, aS Well branches on many univettity campuscs and in cities such as Bristol,ICarnbridge,Lceds,

Manchestcr and Oxlord.Thc main London branches are:

Britain or Australia.

Deaftravcllers can ask for airport and in‐

flight announcements to be witen down おrthem. hildren undcr two travel for 10%ofthe Standな dね re(Or iee,On SOme airlineS),aS long asthcy don't occupy a scat.´「 hey don't (E〕

86 01d Brompton Rd,London SW7 3LH l17 Euston Rd,London NW1 2SX 38 Store St,London WCIE 7BZ P

ory House,6 Wrights L.ane,I´ ondon W8 61'A

ll Goodge St,London,Wl

get a baggage alowmce either.`SttCOtS'

should be provided by the airline if rc‐ qucsted in advance;these wili take a child 、 vcighing up to about 10kg. lChildren between it、 vo

and 12 can usually occupy a

scat for halfto

o‐

thirds of the fuli fare,

and do gct a baggagc allowancc. IPush chairs(stЮ ‖ers)can oncn bc takcn as hand

luggage.

A simllar placc is Tmil■ nders(‐ 0171‐ 937

5400 for European nights). Its sho‖ 卜haul booking centre is at 215 Kensington High St.Other ofnces are江 42‐ 50 Earis Court

Rd,London W8 6FT(●

an inoculation servicc and a rescarch library lor customers.´ railinders also has agcn‐ cies in Bristol,Biπ ningham,Glasgow and ヽ4anchester. I・

The UK a lreiand London is one of the best centres in thc

0171‐ 9383166)

and 194 Kcnsingon High St,London W8 7RG(● 0171‐ 9383939).The later omers

Gctting Thcre&Away― Air 101 Campus Travcl is in rnuch the sarlle

99 return― kccP your cycs on the

L'Iく ￡

leaglle and has the following branchcs ill

buckct‐ shop ads!(I)thcr"7isc,you could call

London:

thc Air Travcl Advisoγ

52 Grosvenor Gardens,London SWIW OAG (European nights on‐ 0171-7303402) University Co‖ ege of London,25 Gordon St,

London WCIH OAH(● 0171-3835337)

YHA Adventure Shop,174 Kcnsingon High St, London W8 7RG(● 0171-9382188)

YIIA Adventure Shop, 14 Southampton St, London(● 0171-8363343) South Bank lUniversity, Keyw()nh St, London

SEl(● 0171-4018666) 1｀

hc two nag airlincs that link the tJK and

the Canary lsiands are British Airways

Burcau(● 017ト

6365000).You teli thc bureau your destinationそ ■ld it provides a list ofrelcvant

bucket shops that it has on its books.

The cheapesttime to ny is midweek on a night night. If you're l。 。king to go in Winter but WiSh tO∼ 。id the hi帥 ‐ SCaSOn crush and pricc riscs,you'1l need to ny out

in late November or early Deceinber and retunl before Chrisunas.Always chcck thc alrival and dcpanure tiines on these nights, as inconvenience is usually part ofthe pricc ζ you pay for a low farc.｀ セ ou should not be surprised,in peak tiines at any rate,to iind

222111),156 Regent St,London WlR,and

your night delayed.Reinember too that, Once b。 。ked,you cannot altcr your night

Spain's lbcna(曽 0171‐ 8300011),1l Hay‐

detalis. If you miss a cha

market,London SWlY 4BR Ofthe two,

have lost your rnoney.´「 hcrc is li■ le rhymc or reason to the kinds ofdeals that can conne

(●

' 0171-434 4700; 24-hour linc 0345‐

BIA is more likely to have special deals lower than the standard scheduled fares. Iberia nights all go via Madrid, and the Standard ShOulder‐ SeaSOn return fare i■ OFn

London to Las Palmas,valid for six months, was UK￡ 334 at the time of writing.Don't despair,thc bucket shops can often get you across for nluch less, usually on chartcr ´ nights. rhe spanish airline spanair has direct nights iom Gatwick to Tcncrit,Las Palmas and Arrecit(Lanzarote),but tickets are sold through travel agents.

Council Travel(●

0171‐

4377767),28a

you

up out of nowhere ― the explanation is usually a last_minute atempt to nll empty seats with rock‐ bottom fares.

Ylou needn't necessarily ny floin Lon‐

don, as many goOd deals are as easily avanable iom other rnajor centres in the

UK. Flying as a courier(sec also The USA below),is unlikely to bc a possibility nrom

the UK,butifyou wantto check try the BA Travci Shop(‐ 0181-564 7009),or trawl theヽ rel10w

Pages. If you're colning iom lrcland,it might

Poland St,London WiV 3DB,which spe‐ cialiscs in studcnt and under‐ 26 fares,plus the occasional chalter,had a student rcturn fare with Transavia lor UK￡ 201.Thc tickct

er‐night,

be worth colmparing whatis availablc direct

and fronl London ― gctting across to London irst rnay save you a few quid.

、 vas valid for a year.

Spanish Travel Scrvices(● 0171‐ 387 5337), 138 Eversholt St,London iNW I IIBL, has a good range of chartcr― :night options. If STS don't offer anything out― standing, look around other bucket shops. STS has charter nights lrom l(JIK￡ 11 9 return to Las Palrnas and thc other iΥ lain isiands.

Anothcr source of cheap nights to thc Ca―

naries is thc Charter Flight Centre 0171-565 6755), 15 Giningham St,

(●

/1 VlHlヽ 1.It also does packages. London Sヽ ヽ In lo、 v season, fares can fall as lo、 v as

in the(Canaries Chcck around thc budget travel agents for studcnt fares,charters and other last‐ minute deals.In the rnain resOrts

and citics cspecially you can often dig up sornc cxtraordinary last‐ ■linute bargains.At thc tirnc of writing,onc agent on.Ilenerife

Ⅵ′ as virtually giving away one_way nights to London on certain days around Christ― :τ

las and Ncwヽiear

for 5000 ptas!

Packages&Fly‐ DI『 ive

Mosttourists to the isiands b00k a package deal.′ rhis generally

102 Getting Thcre&Away― Air consists of flights,transfers and accornrno‐

dation.T'his can work out well,and O■

en

nlore cheaply than going it alone,but it does limit yOu.scc als。 (o,rganised´ rlours bclow.

It can work out marginally cheapcr to book a hire car befOre arriving in the isiands, so you might cOnsidcr a iny¨

drive

p∝ kage.Most reputabic travcl agents and

10u dO tour operators can organise this. ｀ ′ need to think about how iong yOu will ac_ tually want a car thOugh.Those staying on

ptas ioin Madrid and 64,500 ptas iom Barcelona.

The Rest of Europe Givcn the popularity of the Canary lslands with sun‐ starved Europeans across the cOn_ tinCnt(Or tt leaSt itS nOrthem ha10,plCnty of charter options present theinsclves,Om a series of citics across Europe,not unlikc the offiers available in the UK.

onc isiand lllay 6nd they can dispense with

Gerrnany Munich is a haven of bucket

a car aner a few days, and those isiand_ thcir hire car arOund flonl isiand to isiand

shops and more rnainstreanl budget‐ travel outlets.Councn Trttcl ofnce(● 089‐ 3950 22),Adalbcttstr 32,nea the univcrsiり ,is

(in thOSe tW inStanCeS Where that is eVcn

onc ofthe best.STA Travcl(●

hopping would ind it expensive to hall

penni"Cd).In thtt CaSC yOu are betCr Off h ng a carin cach isiand as yOu g。 ,お rjust

089‐ 3990

96),Kё nigstr 49,is also good. In Berlin,Kilroy Travel‐ ARTU

Reisen

the amount oftime yOu require.

(‐

Spain C)ne might have thought Spain was thc

BCrlin Z。 。 (With iVe branCheS around thC city)is a good travel agent.In Frankfun, you could try S・ Iン「 ヽrravel(口 703035),

obvious place to get a planc fOr the Canary lslands, sincc in cflicct it represents an in‐

ternal flight.Appearances can be deceptive,

030-3100040),at Hardenbergstr 9,near

'069‐

13ockcnhcinler Landstr 133 and anothcr branch in Bornheim (● 069-43 01 91),

Bergcrstr l1 8.Connections(■ ｀069‐ 7050

however.Aside'om chaters,Air Europa

60), Adalbertstr 8, in Bockenheim, is

and Spanair both operate regular scheduled nights bet、 vecn the canaries and a host of nlainiand Spanish cities,including Madrid, 13arcelona,Alicarite and Mllaga. ・ he Mallorca‐ based Spanair has flights

another consolidator.

I・

to Tcncrife None, Las Palmlas de Gran

Canaria and Lanzarote(Arecit)'om Madrid, Barcelona, Santiago de Com‐ postela and Palina de Mallorca.

Lunlhansa's subsidiary,Condor,has■・ e― quent nights lrom a dozen locations in Gennany to.Tlenerife Sut Las Palinas de Gran Canaria,Santa Cruz de la Palma,Ar‐ recife(Lallzarote)and Fuertevcntura. c)ther airlines with n・ equent direct nights tO VariOuS Of thC([〕 anary ISlandS inClude Hapag‐ Lloyd Flug and LTU.

Air Europa nies to Tenerife(Sur and ]No■ e),Gran Canaria,Lanzarotc and Fucnc‐

vcntura■ om nuinerous mainland airports. Iberia SeⅣ eS ei』 t mainiand deStinatiOnS

The Nether:ands Amsterdam is a popular depalnure pOint.´ 「 hc studcnt travcl agency

NBBS Rciswinkels,Rokin 38(● 020-624 0989),o∬ ers reliable and reasonably!ow

Madrid with Santa(Clruz de la Palma four 'Om TCnCrit(bOth airpOrtS),and COnnCCtS

fares. Compare with the pickings in the

tl:nes a weck.

bucket shops along Rokin before deciding. NIBBS has several branches throughout the city,as well as in Brusscls,Belgium. ´

Return flights bctween either Madrid or ´ lBIarcelona and Ilenerife can cost 27,900 ptas, but nluch depends on the season. A rcturn charter fare flonl Madrid to・ Ilcnerife can be as lo、 v as 18,900 ptas. Schedulcd airlinc fares tend to.be‐ much

hitter.A one― yea open remm tickct with Air Europa to´ renerine would cost 51,700

rransavia Airlincs has direct flights between Amsterdam and Tenerife Sur、vice a weck. ita:y A reliable placc to look lor cheap

nights is cTs(centr。

Turistico Studen‐

Geting There&Alway― Air 103 teSCO).It haS branChCS al1 0Ver the COuntly.

gal),which cost 93,000 ptas return for a

In Rome(●

maximum stay of“ o months.Sometimes

06‐ 46791),it's

tt Via Genova

there are nights to Banjul,Ghana,with Ghana Airways(● 928‐ 272108),and to

16.

France ln Paris,lν loyages et I)6couvelnes

Mauritania with Air Mauritanic(●

(● 1‐ 4261

0050),both iom Las Palmas.

0001),21 Rue Cainbon,is a

good place to start hunting doν

vn the best air

fares.

928-47

The uSA

The No貢 h Atlantic is thc Ⅵ′ orid's busiest

Po『 ltuga:

Portugalia Airlincs connects

Lisbon with Tenerife Sur at least four days

a wcck.A couple of thcse ny via Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.The retum fa・

long_haul air con・ idor and thc night options

・

are bewildcring. hat said, the options to the Canary lslands are rather lirnitcd. I｀

several airlines ny direct tO rnainland

e is

Spain,landing in Madrid,flom where you

62,000 ptas.

can get connecting nights tO the canaries.

Morocco

Using the infOrrnation above on flights

Although barcly 100krn avvay,thc shores of

betwecn inainiand Spain and thc islands,

Morocco are expensive to reach.A stralttt‐

comparc■ c cost ofa tickct rightthЮ ughわ

forward return trip to Agadir iom Las Palmぉ with Royal Air Maroc(,928-2684

thc Canarics iom the USA with a tickctto Madrid plus a round‐ trip night frolT: Madrid.In gcneral there will be little diF ference,but it's worth checking..The other option is a package trip with a chall:er airline(See OrganiSed TOurS be10W). (E)therⅥ ′ ise, consider getting a cheap nightto London and a chaner from there.

re 64)costs 64,510p協 .To Marrakesh the金 、 is 83,710 ptas and involves a threc― hour

layover in Casablanca.In tenTls of cost,the

Agadir inight is thc bcst bct,as the buses fiorn there to ヽ 4arrakesh and other points arc good and a danlned sight cheaper than

thc cxtra nloney you would pay for the night.If you're fceling patticularly adven_ turous,Rコ ヘM also has flights twice a weck

to Laayoune, in the Moroccan‐ occupied Sahara.´ 「 here's not an awill lot there,al‐

though you could undertake the rough

overland ride south to Mauritania(check the latest situation on visas and、

vhcthcr the

lrOntier iS Open Or nOt).

If you are thinking about inaking a bricf

〕 excursion into Morocco while in the〈二 a‐ naries, you should look into thc packagc Offers, as thcse represent comparatively good valuc. At the tirne of writing)onc‐ weck packages cornprising flights, hotel and half board to Marrakcsll with cxcur‐ sions to F6s,Mekn6s,Casablanca and Rabat were going for 75,900 ptas.

If your Europcan trip is not going to be confined to the isiands,consult your travel agent about ho、 v bcst to incorporate then■ into your vacation.

Thc Mの ″ Ib″ た■″ιs,the ιИ η″′s,the jcαgο 7ン ′ ら ″′and the Sα ″′ンα″εおσο,E,― “ weckly travcl sections in α″ノ ηο″produce which you'11 ■nd any nurnber of travel (3'力

agcnts'ads.(〕 ouncil′ ravcl and S´ 「 IA´ ravel haVe OfΠ CeS in ma10r CitieS natiOnWide・ The magazine 7)・ の ι′し″″″ノ ′ ′グ(PO Box 1058, I｀

I｀

Allston,lMass 02134)publishes detans of cheap alr fares. Stan(iard fares on cornincrcial airlines are

expcnsivc and probably best avoidcd. I‐

lowevct travclling on a normal,scheduled

flight can be nlore securc and rcliable,par‐

ticularly for nlore elderly travcllcrs and fllmilies,、 vho lTlight prefer to avoid the po‐

The Rest of Africa There are few direct links between thc Canary lsiands and thc rcst ofA■ ica.Atthe

tential

tirne of writing one option was an lberia

the USA includc chalter nights, stand‐ by

scⅣ icc

and courier flights.stand_by fares arc onien

iom Las Palmぉ to Dakar(Scnc‐

inconvcniences of the

budget

alternatives.

E)iscount and rock‐ bOttOFn OptiOnS lrOrn

104 Getting Theκ

&Away―

Air

sold at 60%Ofthe nOrmal price lor one― 、 vay tickets.Airhitch(● 212‐ 8642000;airhitch

on a courier night can cost under USS300

@netcom.com),2641 Broadway,New

in the 10W SCaSOn(mOE CXIXnSiVe← Om the WeSt COaSt). YOu COuld alSO get OnC t。

thing.Yiou wili need to give a general idea

London and take a chanler night On tO the isiands iom there,althOugh yOu'1l prObably

York,NY 10025,specialises in this sort Of

of where and when you nced tO g。 ,and a tw days bcお your dcpartu“ you wili be “ a chOice Of tw0 0r thrce prcscntcd with

end upl spending rnuch the samc amOunt

nights.Airhitch has severa1 0thcr ofices in

(SOmetimeS Within One OrtWO wecks,but on oCCaSiOn up tO three mOnthS).YOu may ind

the USA,including Los Angeles(●

310‐

either way.Genera‖ y couricr nittts requiК that you return within a specincd period

726 5000), as、 vell as others in London,

your luggage allowance being restricted,al‐

Pa

s,Amsterdam,Praguc,Rome,Bonn and Madrid. Such a flight will get you to

though increasingly cOuriers are asked

Europe, but for thc Canary lsiands you'11

simply to deliver docurnents tO a colllpany rcprcscntative at thc dcsti:latiOn.1ピ 10u nlay

nced to thcn look for a cheap chalte■ chan‐ cr nights tend to bc signincantly

Cheaper than scheduled flights.「 Fhey are usually tied in with accOmmOdatiOn pack‐ ages,tend not to bc very cornfol■ ablc and preclude changing return― flight dates.

Reliable travel agents specialising in

budget traVel (eSpeCially fOr StudentS) includc STA(sta‐ travcl.com)and Council Trttel(CiCaOrg/traVel.htm),“

th of which

have ofnces in ina,Or Cities:

10 Downing Strect(comer of 6th Avc and

Blcckcr St),New York,NY 10014 (● 212-6273111) 920ヽ Viestwood Bivd,Los Angcles,CA 90024

8241574)

51 Grant Avc,San Francisco,CA 94108 (● 415‐

3918407)

Council Travel 254(〕 rccn St,New York,卜 JY 10003

2542525) 205Eぉ t42nd St,New York,NY 10017 (● 212‐

212-8222600) 1094 Lindbrook Drive,Los Angeles,CA 90024(■ .310-2083551) (●

530 Bush St,San Francisco,CA 94108 (● 415‐

nights is Now Voyager(‐

212‐ 4311616), Suite 307,74 Varrick St,New Yiork,NY

10013.・ his company specialises in cOurier 「

nuts,but you must pay m annual mem‐ bership tc(around USS50),which cntitles as you

you to take as many courier nighも

like.I)hone for a recorded message detail‐

STA

(● 310‐

have to be a US resident and apply 10r an interview bcforc they take you on. ヽ4ost nights depart ioln New York. A good source ofint,nnation on courier

4213473)

´ ing all available inights and prices. 「 he Denver‐ based Air Courier Association (● 303-278 thing. 1`￨。 u

8810)also does this ikind of

join the assOciation, which is uSed by intemaiOnal air_■ eiま t COmpanieS

to provide the esco■

s.｀ 1lou

rnay bc able to

organisc such nights dircct with courier

companies― try the■ iellow Pages. Courier prices can be 10‐ 40%

below

schcdulcd fares and arc also seasOnal.They also tend tO drOp if you are prepared to ny

at sholl: notice. Always check conditions and dctails with thc cornpany. For the hi‐ tcch navigator, inforrnatiOn and flights can bc‐ had in thc travel forurns open to uscrs Of thc lnternet and ass01■ ed

computer infOrnlatiOn_and_cOrnmunication sel口

′ ices.´ hey are a step fbrther dOv71l the 「

Another travel agent specialising in budget

travellers' superhighway lrorn televisiOn

air farcs is Discount Tickets in New York

Ileletext scrvices― another sOurce Of fares and other infbrnlation.

(● 212‐ 3912313).

C)ouricr flights are whcre you accompany

´

At the time of writing,Ibcria new to

a parcel to its destination.Again,you'd be

Teneriお via Madrid■ om

highly unlikely to get anything directly to

season lor USS750 return. S´ I:A tickets fbr as low as USS550,wh‖

the isiands,but a New｀

Fiork‐

Madrid return

Ncw Yorkinlow offiers e Dis―

Getting There&Away― Air 105

cOunt l｀ ickcts

had a fare ofUSS650,also via ヽ4adrid. All fares includc taxcs. Frorn

through Madrid.Lookお r

llenerife thcre was a weekly direct charter

can rcsorts.At the time ofwriting,some of these were going for around 80,000 ptas.

to New TriOrk on Saturday for 89,900 ptas retunl plus taxes.The retunl night was alsO

on Saturday.AIways iook for low‐ season deals though― around the tirne of writing,

retum nightsto New York via Madrid we“

deals to places such as the l)ominican】 Republic and Mexl‐

Austrana

・ 「 here are nO direct nights ttom Australia to the Canaries,so you'1l have to book con‐

going for 66,000 ptas.

necting inights via Madrid or anothcr

vorth looking at the Option of a cheap flight to London

European capital.

and a chainer lrom there.

ma10r dealcrs in cheap air fareS,although hcavily discounted farcs can oien be found at the travel agent in your iocal shopping

At these rates,it rcally is、

Canada lberia has direct nights to the canaries via MIad d iom Toronto and Montreal.As with the lJSA,the thing to do is、 vork outthe bcst

possible route/fare conlbination,and again a direct night to London colmbined with a chaner iOm there call o■ en work out the cheapest and simplest method for reaching

STA and Flight Centres lnternational arc

centre.´ rhe saturday travei sectiOns Of the

Иr and theン あ り Mο ″″″g 〃arα ′ ′havc inany advcniscments o青 lcring cheap farcs to lEurope, but don't be sur‐ prised ifthey happen to be`sold out'when you contact the agents― they are usually 10、 v‐ season fares on obscure airlines with

Melboumc

ね

cOnditions attached. E)iscounted returFi air fareS tO IEuropean destinations on mainstream airlines through reputablc agents can be surprisingly cheap,

οS′ α″,the C′ οι agents'adsin the 7b´ ο″′

with 10w‐ seasOn fares around AS1600 to AS1800 remrn and high‐ scasonね res up to

the Canaries.

Travel CUTS(●

1-800‐ 7770112;travel‐

CutS.COm),WhiCh SpeCialiSeS in diSCOunt "S br StudCntS,haS OfiCeS in all travel maiOr isc scan the budget citics.(〕 lther、 ′ ″ . ``■ The ■イ α′ ′ , and the 陥″οο″ッο′ ′ケονノ “ BoX ′ ノ ο″S(PO magaZine Craα ′EX′ θグブ

AS2500.You'd then have to tack on the dif‐

8000-411,Abbotsford BC V2S 6Hl)is

Europe and the islands. For courier flights you could try Jupiter

sometimes uscful. Scc the prevlous scction for infollΥ lation on courier nights.For courier nights origi―

nating in Canada, contact FB on Board COurier Scrvices(● 514‐ 633 0740 in Toronto or Montreal, or 604-338 1366 in Vancouvcr).Airhitch(sce the USA section) ′ ronl rOrOntO, has stand_by fares to and ぅ

Montreal and Vancouven

South America There is little in the way ofscheduled direct

flights between the Canaries and South Ainenca.(1)ne cxception is an lberia run to

ference for the return nights bctwcen

02-93172230),Unit 3,55 Kent Rd,

(●

Mascot in Sydney. ・ he following are sonnc addresses for I｀

agencies offering good― value fares: STA′ rrave: ic 3053 224 Faraday St,Cariton,ヽ ′ (● 03‐ 93476911)

Shop 3,702‐ 730 11arris St,Ultinlo,NSW

2007(● 02-9281 1530) lst Floo■ Ncw Gund Bunding,University of Westcm Australia,Craw!ey,WA 6009 (● 08‐

93802302)

Flight Centrcs lntcr:lational

Caracas(Venezuela)彙 om Las Palmas or

Bourkc Steet Fli』 t Ccntrc,19 Bourkc St

´

Ilenerifb.Areturn ticketin iow season,valid

Mciboume,Vic 3000(■ 03-96502899)

fOr uptOtwo months,costs 122,000 ptas.

Manin Place Fiight Ccntre,Shop 5,Statc Bank Centre,52 Manin Place,Sydney「

Air Europa also has a wcckly night to Salvador de Bahfa in Brazil.

〈 :)therwise flights are generally routcd

NSW

2000(●

02‐

92350166)

City Flight Centre,Shop 25,Cinema Ci″

Arcade,Penh,WA 6000(●

08‐

93259222)

106 Ge

ng There&Away― Land

New Zea:and

Car&Motorcycle

As with Australia,STIA and Flight Centres lnternational are pOpular travel agents in NeW Zealand.′「 he CheapestiOtres to Europe are gCnCrally rOuted through the USA,al‐ though in the case Of the Canary lslands yOu may Wcli gct a dcal via Lttin Amcrica.

An RTW ticket may be chcaper than a nonnal retum.(othe:"vise,you can ny■ 。m Auckland to pick up a connccting night in

Melbourne or Sydney. usenil addresses include:

Papen″ork&Preparations PrOOfOfOwrl_ ership ofa private vehicle shOuld always bc

carried(Vehicle Registration Document for UK‐ registered cars)when driving thrOugh

E;urope, and that includcs the C〕 anary lsiands.All EU‐ member statcs'driving li‐ ccnces are i11ly recogniscd in thc Canary lsiands,although if yOu stay for inore than a year(that iS, Viitually beCOrne residcnt)

you are suppOsed to apply for a local licence. In practice nlany residents don't

bothcr.The dd‐ style UKi green liccnce is F‖ ght

Cent“ s lntemaiOnai Auck!and Flight Centre,Shop 3A,National Bank Towers,205‐ 225 Queen St,Auckland (●

09-3096171)

not acccptcd,and yOu'd be wisc to gct an intcrnational Driving Pennit for non‐ EU li‐

cences(see Documents in the Facts for the

STA Travcl&Intemational Trave‖ cs CentЮ

ViSitOr Chapter).

Campus Travel Gtte l,Knighton Rd,Waikato Univcrsity,

minirnunl requirernent in the (Canary

10 High St,Auckland(1● .09-3090458)

Ham‖ ton(●

07‐

8569139)

′ I｀

hird― party

rnOtOr

insurancc

is

a

ISiandS,Spain and throughout Europe,as is a Grccn iCard,an internatiOnally rccognised

proof of insurance that can be Obtained

Asia

■om yourinsurer.Also ask your insurcr for

ong is the discOunt_ticket capital of the regiOn.Its bucket shops are at least as unreliable aS thOse of other cities.Ask the

a European Accident Stateinent lorm,

advicc of Other travellers bcfore buying a

can't read or understand― insist on a trans_ lation and sign that only ifit's acceptable. A IEuropcan breakdown‐ assistance policy

I,Iong Iく

ticket. S′

I:A has branchesin Hong Kong,TokyO,

SingapOrC,Bangkok and Iく :uala ILumpur.

LAND For rcasons that will becorne apparent alltcr a brief glance at the atlas,there are nO bus

WhiCh Can SimpliS′ matterS in the event of an accident. 1ヽ lever sign statenlcnts yOu

iS a g00d inVeStment,such as the AA Five Star Scrvice or thc lRAC'Eurocover Motor‐ ing Assistance. In the lCanary lsiands and

nlaking your、 vay across Spain tO the south‐

Spain in general,assistance can be Obtaincd through the Rノ ヽ CE.Sce the Getting Around chapter for demils. Every vehicle travclling across an intcr_ national bordcr shOuld display a natiOnality

em pOn ofc`diz,■ 01■ whcre you can get a WeCkly try tO the iSiandS(prOVided yOu

Waming triangle(tO be uSed in the event of

have booked well ahead ― refer to Sca

a brCakdOWn)iS COrnpulSOry throughout

bC10W). The fenγ ride throws up the option of taking your Own car or lTlotOrbike,but of course nrst you have to make it t。 (cadiz.

Europe. Recornrnended accessories are a

or rail routes tO the Canary lsiands.HOw_ ever, there is nOthillg to stol)you florn

Fronl thcre it is a long and cxpensivc haul,

and probably only wOrth cOntcnlplating if you are planning an cxtnded sOjOum in thc isiands.See the(3ctting Around chapter fOr infornlation on car and nlotorcycle travel within the Canaries.

platC Of itS COuntry Of rcgistration. A

irst‐

aid kit,a spare bulb kit and a ire ex‐

tinguishei ln the tJIく ,nu:1‐ herinl)rmation

tained■ om the RAC(● thc AA(● 0990‐ 500600).

0990‐

can be ob_

722722)or

Rentai There is a mind‐ boggling variety of special dcals,tenns and cOnditions attached

to car rental.HOwever,there are a few

Ge■ ing

There&Away― Sea 107

pointcrs to hclp you through.Multinational agcncies― Hcrtz,Avis and Europe's iargest rental agency,Europcar― will prOvidc a re―

Purchase()nly residents in Spain can buy a car there,and only those who can prove

liable service and g00d standard Ofvchiclc.

themselvcs ofthc local tax breaks to buy a

If you walk intO an ofince lor such a nlultinational and rcquest a car on the slpot,

you wili generally pay a slightly higher rate

than you would if you had arranged it in advance,cven allo、 ving for special weckend dCalS.1′ OCal irmS Can SOrnCtiFneS underCut

residence in the([〕 anary lslands nlay avail

car chcaply. C)thcr、 vise,the UK is probably the best place to buy, as second‐ and prices are 1■

goOd and,whether buying privately or nr。 111 a dealeち the absence of language dificul‐ ties will help yOu tO establish exactly what

the rnultinationals, but exanline the rental agreement carcm‖ y(dif■ cuit if it is in SpaniSh Only!).

you are getting for your money. 13ear in ■lind that you wili be getting a le食 ‐ hand

Booking a rental car through a multina‐ tional agency befOre leaving hOrnc 、 vill

you buy in theIJK.Ifyou、 vant a right‐ hand drive car and can affOrd tO buy new,prices

gencrally enable you to ind the best deals. Prepaid ratcs arc sornetinles cheapcr,and it

are relativcly low in Belgiuin,the Nethcr―

driVC Car(iC Steering Whee1 0n the rittt)if

lands and Luxcrribourg.

rnay be worth your iwhile looking intO ny/drivc combinations and other prograrlls. lY7。

u will silnply pick up the vehiclc on

arrival and return it to a norninated point at

the end ofthe rental period.Ask your travel agent for infolTnation,or contact One Ofthe mttOr rental agCnCieS.

Motorcyciing lf you get yOur Own bike tO thc is:ands,or hirc onc on the slpot,rcnncrn‐

bcrthat wearing crash hclmcts is Ob‖ gatOry. A bike wili be easier and cheaper than a car to get on to the interisiand lR):Ties and the

When yOu Want tO rent iS tO Call baCk(Or

boat iom C`diz too. Anyone considcringjoining a nlotorcycle tour'om the UK might wanttojoin the ln‐

perhapS eVen email!)hOme and reSerVe

ternational

through an agent therc.´ his way you get the benents ofb。 。king■ 。m home.one us rcader suggested taking out Aincrican Au‐ tomobile Association inernbership before

1le club counts 400 menlbers,and in addi‐ tion to holidays on thc Continent,thcy also

Another possibility if you don't knOw

I｀

leaving home― companics such as Heiz

onten have discounts for AAA members booking a car through a US ofice. Before going to ali this trouble,hOwcvcr, do look around to see what local rates are. Car rental in the Canaries is nluch cheaper

than in■lainiand Spain,so the savings on pre‐ 1)ooked

cars are likely to bc less spec‐

tacular.

vhere you rent,Inake sure yOu understand what is included in the price (unlimited ki10met“ S,taX,inSuranCe,CO‖ i‐ 1ヽ

lo rnatter、

SiOn damagC WaiVer etC)and What yOur liabilities are.The minimum rcntal age in Spain,and hence the Canary lsiands,is 21 ycars.A credit card is usually rcquired.

For rnore details of rental rates and options,see C)ar&Motorcycle in the Get‐ ting Around chapter.

´

Motorcyclists our Club (UKl19 perannum plus UK￡ 3joining tc). ´ I・

I｀

have sOcial 、 veckends! The present secre―

tary, Jamcs(Clegg, can bc contacted on ‐ 1484-664868.

SEA Spain Most peoplc choose to ny to thc islands,but

a TraSmCditCrrinea Car trry(WhiCh Can cary up to 135 cars)leaves■ om Cidizお r Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de く 〕 ran Canaria cvery Saturday at 6 pm.It'sa こ

long and O■ en bunlpy ridc, arriving in Santa Cruz de´ renerife on Monday at 9 am

(wherc it stops br six hours)and 7 pm in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.Thc boat back

to Spain lcaves Santa Cruz at 8 am on Wednesday,calling in at Las Palinas(noon)

and Arrecit(Lanzarote;9pm)on the way. vevet unless you especially like ocean voyages or you have a car that you need to 1-Io、

108 Geting There&Away― Depalture Taxes transpol",you arc probably beter ortravel_

1000p体

ling by air.

much as 5000 ptas bcyond Europe)but

おrEwopem nuts;rising to as

Fares per pcrson range fiom 28,975 ptas

these are included in the price of thc ticket

to 54,915 ptas depending on the type of

at purchase.For European nights thcy are gencrally only charged if you are taking a ″′ ″″ ″nigh.

cabin.「『 hc fares include ali rneals. Return

fares arc doublc,and children under 13 pay half the adult fare. Senior citizens should

ask lor a 20%rcduction on adult fa・ cs.All p ces rise marginally仕om July to the cnd

ORGANiSED TOuRS

ofDcccmbcn A car upto 6m long and l.8m

′ hcrc is no shoitage of companics provid‐ ing travel services to thc(〕 anary lsiands

high costs lrom 23,950 ptas onc

、 vay. Motorcycles cost 8980 ptas one、 vay. ・ ou generally need to book at lcast a rnOnth in advance if you want to get your

froln anywhere in Europe and North

car orl,and can dc)so through selected rcp‐ resentatives lor′ rasinediterTinea outsidc Spain.′ hese includc:

cnlphasis is on flight and accornnlodation packages.Ask in particular forthe Holidays

1う

I・

I・

I・

Ainerica. Spanish tourist ofices can pro― vide you with extensive lists of conlpanies OfiFering all kinds of holidays,altllough the

of Special intcrcst list, which categorises

COmpanieS thematiCally(Cg COaCh tOurS, Bclgium ｀oyagcs Wasteeis― (Clhauss`c dc 1 050 Bnissels(● 02-(450611)

birdヽ VatChing,g。 lf

lBoondae1 6,

ing what's on o昴 e■ Remember that,while

E)enrnark

Fe"y Cruising Center― Strandve」 en 6,2100

COpCnhagCn(・

39277800)

lberrail France― IBIvd Poissonniё re 8,75009 Paris(● 1-48019797) A!pitour ltalia― Via Roccavione 14,12100

Cuneo(● 0171-3131)

you've paid up your apartrncnt lor two wecks,you'Ic stuck with it.If you plan to

Deutsches Rciseburo(DER),60439 Frankilrυ 069‐

pendent travel is really the way to go.The only proviso being that in high season,es‐

Gennany

95881717)

Ietheriands

pecially on thc slnaller isiands,it is possible

to bc len out on a limb.

VCK Zcereizen― Scandia Tel■ linへ PO Box 1418,1000 BK Amsterdam(● 020-587

Package Tours ln the UK,Key to the Ca‐ naries(● 0161‐ 834 1187), 16 LIoyd St,

7877)

ヽ4anchestcr M2 5VVA,specialises in all‐ in‐ clusive packages to the Canary lslands. Lanz■・ote Leisure(● 0181-4497441),4

Portugal lberraiI Portugal Viagens―

503° lD,1000 Lisbon(●

Rua I´ atino 01‐

Coelho

3539475)

Swcden Fcrry Ccnter― Botildenborgs 21,box 15017,

20032 Malm6(●

040‐ 210050)

Vioyages Crista!

Lytton Rd,New Bamet,Hens EN5 5BY, has an extensive list of apartments and villas in lLanzarotc, Fucrtcvcntura and Tenerife.Prices vary greatly dcpcnding on

Switzeriand ― Rue Chantepoulet l-3,

Gcneva 1201(● 022-7380466)

UK

Southcrn FciTies― First Floo■ 1 79 Piccadilly,

London WiV 9DB(‐

0171‐ 4914968)

DEPARTURE TAXES l｀

elling, they also relnove much of the

travei the isiands r:lore extensively, indc‐

Italy

1ヽ

packages take a lot ofthe hassie out oftrav―

adventure and liberty of nlovernent.()ncc

France

Main 50(■

and iShing). It is worth shopping`r.ound and conlpar‐

herc are departure taxes when lcaving thc

canary isiands by air(nuctuating around

thc scason, kind of accornrnodatlく

)n, how

lnany people occupy the villa/apartinent and so on.Asal・ ulc ofthumb,a weck's ac― cornlnodation and airfare start at about UIく[￡ 200 per person.

In the USA, you could have a look at ・

Spanish I‐ Ieritage Ilours (● 1-800‐ 221

2250),47 Qucens BIvd,Forest Hins,NY

l1375.From New York you would bc

Ge■ ing There&:Away―

looking at金 om USS710 per pcrson for a wcck,including nittts,transtrs,¨ com_ modation and somctimes brcakfast.Thcrc

Waming 109

a ヽVest indies banana boat. Its London

ofice(● 0800‐ 5623 13),88 York St, London Wl llDP,can gct you passage on a

are rllany other tour operators specialising

(1)ennan container ship departing Hamburg

in Spain and nlost can help with packages to the Canary lsiands.Another、vorth inves‐ tigating in New York is Spain ・rours &

es. on hvo and three― week trips to thc C)ana Ou can opt for a one‐ way trip.｀ 110u'1l be

Beyond(●

11【

l。

212‐ 5952400).

。king at roughly t,Кl￡ looo fOr the full

thrce wccks.Again, ■lake sure lyou know

Cruises(&Freighters lftravclling is rnorc

elxactly what is included in the price. The cruisc People l_′ td has a()anadian ofnce t。 。

impOnalt tO yOu than arriving,and money

(■ 416‐ 4442410),at

1252 Lawrence Ave, Eぉt,Suite 202,Don Mins,Ontarlo,Canada

is no object, you could take a leisurely cruise out to the Canary lsiands. Fred 01sen Cruise Lines(● 01473‐ 2922

M3A IC3.

22),White House Rd,Ipswich,Suffolk IPl 5LL,offers a series of two‐ wcck cruiscs

ヽ n`ARNING

aboard the 3′ α

larly vuinerablc to change: prices for

″夕′ ο力and B′α P′ ′ ″οθ ・ `た `た 「 hc routes usually takc in intcrnlediate stops(likc ILisbon and Madeira)and,say,a couple of days along the Moroccan coast. .

H。 ld On to your wallet― the cheapest fares

hover around UK￡ 1200 per person.A little nlorc econornical is C,ruisc lnternational (● I‐

0171-4360827),Suite 304,Albany

Iouse, 324‐ 326

Regent St, London WIR

The infonnation in this chapter is particu― international travel arc volatile,routes are

intrOduced and cancelled, schedules change, special deals come and go, and nies and visa requirements are amended. Airlines and govemments seeln to take a perverse pleasure in lnaking price smctures and rcgulations as co■ lplicatcd as possible. ou should check directly with the airline TIζ

5AA, ofFcring 12‐ day cruises starting at UIく i￡ 625 per pcrson in four‐ bel■ h cabins.

or a"avel agcnt to ntake sure you under― 飩and hOW a ftte(and tiCket yOu may buy)

Cruises stan in Genova(ltaly―

WOrkS. In additiOFl, the traVel induStry iS highly competitive and there are many lurks and perks. ・ ■ he upshot ofthis is that you should get

return

nights iom catwick included)and cruise along the Spanish coast,out to the isiands and back along the Moroccan coast. With both companies,inquire about extra charges for on‐ shore activities and dis‐ counts for early booking. ′ 「 he Cnlisc Peoplc Ltd c`■ l organise you

on to still lnore expensive cnlise ships vell as anything doing the Canaries, as 、 il・

orn an expedition ship to the Antarctic to

opinions,quotes and advice l融 orn as inany airlines and travel agents as possible before you part with iyour hard― carned cash.・「 he

detalis givcn in this chapter should be regarded as indicators and are not a substi‐

tute fOr yOur own careful, up‐ research.

to― date

Getting Around AIR Binter(■

thc idca is to reduce prices and increasc paSSCnger V。 lume (aS nlany pCOple Stil!

'902400500),thc fonner sub―

sidiary of Spain's national airlinc, Iberia,

eleCttO gO by SCa).

connects six of thc seven isiands (La

Bus

Gomera still has no airpo■ )with fairly regular nights.It's not a cheap、 Ⅳay to gct around,but ininitely quicker than thc felば y. In business since 1988, it operates nine ATR‐ 72 prop aircra■ and was hived Offand

The irst thing you need tO knOw abOut

fully privatiscd in April 1998.Ibcria too,

be fanllliar with thc tcrnl.Still,if yOu ask

was hcading for privatisation in 1 998. See the table at the l)ottom ofthis page fOr a a rundoν vn of available flights. Fre―

about α ′ οι s′ s, you'1l have no troublc

buses in the Canary lsiands is that thcy are gcncra‖ y known as g″ αg″ αs.Anyone who

has travclled around in Lain America w‖

“ “ bcingi undcrstood. Basically each isiand has its Own interur―

quency and farcs arc the saine in reversc

ban service.()nc、 vay or anOther,thcy can

and thcre is no reduction for ge■ ing rOund‐

get yOu tO mOst main locations,but in nlany cases the nurnber of runs is hardly ilnpres―

trip tiCketS(reSidentS Of the iSiandS arC entitled tO a 10%diSCOunt).

´

sivc. 「 his is especially so on the smallcr

isiands whcrc thc population is IOw and

Putting up a li‖ le compctition is Clanarias

Regional Air(●

l

902240042),with daily

nlost pcople havc their own wheels anyway. Even on malor runs in the bigger isiands,a

nights between Tenerife No■ e and(3ran Canaria,Lanzarote and Fuerteventura.Air

fl・

equent weekday service can trickle Off tO

Atlantic has two dircct nights a week

just a few depanures on saturday and Onc,

between Gran Canaria and EI Hierr(). Some ofthe islands arc also connected by

or none,on Sunday.

land.They a“ Air Europa(Tcnerit,Gran

In thc!arger towns and cities,buses leave 金Om a buS StatiOn(ω ″θ′ b″ αa g″ αg″ αS). (:)thCrヽViSC, thCy tCrFninate at a partiCular

Canariへ Lanzarotc and Fuerteventura)and

street or plaza.

tu′ o

other airlines scrving the Spanish nlain‐

Spanair(Tcnerife,Gran Canaria and Lan‐

ou pay for tickets on the bus.Alterna‐

tively, on some isiands, yOu can buy a Bonobus card(called a Tajeta Dinero on

ZarOte).

'Iζ

´ 「 he regional goverilment is IOOking at 、,ays to increase flights and cOrnpetition; ∼

(:〕

ran(Canaria),usually lor 2000 ptas,at bus

Donnestic Flights D`′ α″ ′ ″´ ο,″ ′

D● s″ ″●″ο″

Tcncrtt `ρ None

Gran Canana

TeneriR Sur

Gran Canaria

Tenerife None

Lanzarote

■,マ "ツ Up b “ lld田 け

月′ g力 ′″″′ 30 minutes

0″ ,,,o″ ″

ll■ily but Sunday

30 11linutcs

5800 Pt●

3 dany

10550P“

Tencrit Nore Tenerit Norte

Fucrteventura La Palma

Tenerit None

E!Hiero

2 3 dai[y

50 50 30 40

Gran Canaria

La Palma

2 daけ

50 1nlinutes

Gran Canaria

Gran Can`uia

Lanzarotc

Fucncvcntura

2● iけ 8 daiけ

け

`d満 6d,け

110

minutcs minutes minutes minutes

40 minutes 35 minutes

580p歯 ,800p●

' s

6S,Op● s 7230 ptas

,950p● 1, 3550pセ ls ,`[Op“ s

`

Gc

ng Around― Car&Motorcyclc lll

Bus Routes お′ α″ど Gran Canaria Lanzarote

Dapα″ ′ ッ″ 0ル `′ Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

D´ sr′ ″α″ο ″

Areciお

Fue■ lcventura

Pue■ o deliRosario

Playa Blanca Morro Jable

Tenerifc

Santa Cniz de Tenerife

Playa de:as Arn6ricas

875 ptas

La Pa:nla

La Comem

Santa Cru2 dC la Palina San Sebastiin dc la(〕 (onlera

E:Hiero

Valverde

Los Lianos de Aridanc Va‖ e de Gran Rcy La Restinga

570 ptas 675 ptas 300 ptas

,′

1lα 」

` “ 910 ptas

Mogin

375 ptas 1000 ptas

stations and shops such as ncwsagents.

Fines ranging up t。

Insell:thc card into thc rnachine On thc bus,

inlposcd ifyou arc caught driving underthe

tell the driver where you are going and hc will deduct the f`■ ・ el[Om the card.￢ about 25-30%ofF standard fares if yOu `ouuse get these cards,sO they are a goOd investinent

ofiences range fl・ om 50,000 ur)to1 100,000 ptas.

if you intend tO use the buses a lot on isiands like・ Ilenerife and La Palma.

′

F'he table at the tOp Of this page gives sorne sample stalldard One― vvay farcs,which should givc you an idea Ofthe rnost you are likely to pay fOr any One ticket on ali the

100,000 ptas are

influence or alcohol.Fines for rnany trafic

Ionresident fOreigners can be ined on thc spOt― the minOr c。 lmpensation being that with iminediate settlelmlent thcy get 20%dcducted f10rll norrrial■ nes. 1ヽ

Road Atiases&Maps There a・ e no real rOad atlases fOrthe Canalγ

lsiands collectively, sO yOu are beter Off

islands.

buying inaps for tlle isiands you need.Fire‐

CAR&MOTORCYCLE

stone's lsias Canarias rnap Ofall the isiands,

Road Rules

at a scale of l:150,000 is not bad fOr

lfbringing your own car,rernenlber to have your insurance and Other papcrs in order

drivers.Scc also Maps in the iFacts for the

(See the Cc

ng There&Away chapteo.If

the car is liOrn the UIく

Or lreland,remem‐

Visitor chapter and in the intrOductiOn tO destination chapters fOr mOre infor■ about inaps.

lation

ber to havc the headlights adjusted for driving in Continental Europe.Iffitted,rear

Road Assistance

settbelts must be wom― ines forね ilure to

The Real Autol■ 6vil Club de Espaia's head

COnlply range frOFl1 50,000 to 100,000 ptas.

ofHcc(●

The minimum driving agc is 18. Motorcyclists note that hcadli』 ts must be used at all tirncs. crash heintets are obligatory on bikcs of 125cc or FnOre.The

Abascal 10 in Madrid,but operates in the Canary lsiands too.It has an ofnce(● 922 270716)誠 Avenida de Anaga s/n in Santa

nllnlinum age fOr riding bikes and scooters under 75cc is 16(no licence is required). In built up areas the speed liinit is gener‐

y40km/h,rising to 100kmハ on ma,or roads and 120km/h on α″ゎνFas(motor‐ a‖

914473200)is■ Cane de JOs6

Cruz de Tenerifё For Rノ ヽ CE;'s24‐ hour erncrgency break‐ .

down assistance, call thc liee nunlber I｀

his service is available to

"IP 900-1181 18.・ rncmbers of forcign rnotOring Organisations

such asthe RAC and AA.

WayS).CarS tOWing CaraVms ae restricted to a maxinlum speed of 80krn/h. ´ 「 he blood‐ alcohol liinit is O.089′ 6 and breath testing is carried Out。 11 0ccasion.

City Driving&Parking Driving in the biggest cities,Las Palrnas de

〈ran Canarias and Santa Cruz de′ Ilenerife, [〕

112 Getting Around―

(〕

ar&ヽ 4otorcycle lor a rnininlurn ofhvo years.It is easier,and

doesn't prescnt particular difncultics, al_ though the traf■ c can be a little intcnsc. Parking, ho、 vevet is nlorc problenlatic.

with sOnnc cOmnpanies obligatory, to pay

Most ofthe ciけ centres(and this goes br Sma‖ er tOWnS tO。 )。 perate rCStriCted meter

Ylou'1l ind no shortage ofiocal compa― vith the big international nics cornpeting 、

parking.()n average you get up to two hours lor 200 ptas.

く )thcrwise, there are

with a credit card.

crowds. With some of these you can get quite reasonablc dcals. A Seat Marbclla

scveral parking stati()ns in thc two capitals.

might cOst yOu as ime as 16,000 ptas br a

If you double park or leave your vehicle in a dcsignated no‐ parking zone,you risk being tOwed一 recovcring the vehicle costs

weck including insurance and unlimited

6000 ptas. Don'tleave anything in the carifyou can avoid it.Then‐ 針。m cars,and hire cars in

the car fo■

particular,is always a threat.

kilometres.No nlatter where you rent,the daily rate comes down the longer you hirc More standard rates with the biggcr firms hover around 3000 ptas to 4000 ptas per day fOr a、 veck for a sinali car.Europcar,for in‐

stance,will give you an(Dpei Corsa l.2 for Petroi f″ α is inuch cheapcr in the lCanary Casο ′

3475 ptas per day with unliinited inilcage.

lsiands than elsewhere on Spanish territory,

()n tOp Ofthis yOu need to calculate 1400 ptas a day in collision darnage lwaiver,as

as it is fiec of nc)rrnal consurner taxes.

well as 550 ptas a lda)′ in thcft and third‐

You'1l not ind regular petrol anywhere ο″ο)iS nOWadayS, but lead‐ ■eC(Sf″ ′′ available pretty rnuch every、 vhere. Prices iCe StatiOnS and Vary Slightly beヽ Veen Selい ノ

parヽ ′inSuranCe・ HCItZ, On the Other hand,

has the sarne car for 3925 ptas a day all up.

what follows serves as a guide only.Super

Reinemberto ask ifthe 4.5%IGIC tax isin― cluded in the price ofiered. You rnay also want to take out extra personal insurance, which generally costs around 2000 ptas a

costs 81.2 ptas per litre and thc increasing‐

day.

nucttlate with Oil tarifFs and tax policy,so

ly pOpular diesel(or gα s`′ )65 ptas per `ο litre.Lcad‐ ■ec(95 octane)costs 79.l pt2s

and 98 octane super,sornetimes known as ″S′ α″,comes Sジ ″ι

in at 83.3 ptts.You cを m

pay with mttOr credit cards at many service stations.

οrtake a Note that,in general,you may■ ″ hire car fiorn one isiand to another without the nHn's explicit peHnission. sorne cOrn― panies, such as Hcrtz, offer a special rate which allows you to island‐ hop.An excep‐ tion to the above rule for most cornpanies is

the Renlぬ

Fuerteventura‐

;し

anzarote

crossing.

Malor companies■ least havc no problem

l

All the big intenlational car rcntal cornpa‐ nies are represented in the C;anary lsiands, ・c also sorne local operators.If and thereそ ■ you intend to stay on the one isiand for any

with you taking your car fヤ om one to the

lengh Oftime,it might be wOnh boOking a

expensive.A sanlple rate is 6500 ptas a day

car in advance, lor example in a fly/drive

for a llonda Enduro X250.

deal(see Car&Motorbike in the Ge

ng

other,and in sornc cases you can hire in onc and drop the car ofFin the otheL

Renting nlotorbikes and rnopeds can bc ｀ rou have to

Theκ &Away chaptcr).Companies o"rat‐

leave a refundable deposit ofatleast 20,000 ptas(or a crcdit card).An 80cc scooter w‖

ing in al1 0r nlost of thc isiands include

cost,om aticast 3000 ptas a day.

He■z(● 901101001),Avis,Europc`r,′ BC Betacar,Euro Donar/Atesa(● 902100101)

l

Sec also Car&Motorbike in thc Ge■ ing

There&Away chapter for inore general

and Cicar(,928597019).

rcntal infornlation.

Ifyou do decide to hire a car aner arriv_ ing,shop around.lYζ ou need to be atlcast 21

Purchase

ycars old and havc hcld a driver's liccnce

You can only purchasc a vchicle in thc

Geting Around― Taxl l13

(〕

HiTCHING

anary lsiands ifyou are a pcnnanent resi―

dent.If that is the case,you can get good deals as vchicles,like evcrything else,are exempt ioin the standard taxes.

Hitching is never entirely safe and we don't

recommend it. T｀ ravellers who decide to hitch should understand thatthey are taking a snlali but potentially scriOus risk.,riOu'11

TAXl You can tour aound the islmds by taxi if you want,but this is deinitcly the expen‐ sive way to go.AIso,taxi drivers operating

also need plenty of patience and cornrnon sense.Women should avoid hitching alone, and even men should consider thc safcr al‐ ternative of hitching in pairs.

between towns tend to be sharkish, and

Hitching is illega1 0n the isiands'few au―

ineters are noticeable by their absencc―

tOvfas(motOrways)and difncult On mう 。r high、 ′ ays.

alWayS COninn the fare befOre taking(Or being takCnお r)a ridC. The Tenerife Taxi Drivers Union puts out a brochurc publishing rctunl farcs bctwccn Santa C;ruz and dcstinations all over thc isiand.Their suggested″ ι′″ ″fare to Puel威 o de la Cruz is around 4500 “ ptas.Ask a taxi driver at the Tenerife Norte airpott how iTluch thc onc‐ way fare is to the same sI)。

(and the airpon is 12knl closerto Puerto de la CruZthan Santa Cruり and yOu Will pЮ ably be told 3000 ptas!(〕 o figure.

t

∼ ｀ :ou really need to choose a spot where 費 cars can safely stop before the llighway slip、 vays,or use minor roads. There is li■ le poi

in trying to hitch,om

city centres.Take local transport to town exits and can)′ a sign with your destination

in Spanlsh. In all,hitching is a bit hit and iniss in the

isiands. With so nlany tourists getting b‐

B:CYCLE You can rent inountain bikes in various resorts and tlle more touristcd arcas of thc

around in hirc vehiclcs it can o食 en scern a brecze.At othcr tirncs the lack oftrafEc on back roads can be frustrating,and locals arc

not always so keen on giving strangers a lin.

isiands.Expcct to pay at lcast 1000 ptas a

BOAT

day.

Ali the isiands are connected by a scries of tries,hydroお 1ls and jetお ils.Thc main

Ifyou plan to bring your own bikc,check with the airline about any hidden costs. It 、 vill have to be disassenlbled and packed for

the jOumey. IY`ou should travel light on a cycle tour,

but bring tools and sOme sparc palns, in‐ cluding a puncture‐repair kit and a spare inner tube.Panniers are essential to balance

your posscssions on either side ofthe bike iame.A bike helmetis a good idea,as is a solid bikc lock and chain to prcvcnt your bike nronl being stolen. ([)ne organiSation that can hclp you plan yOur bike tOur is the cyclists'´ riouring club

01483‐ 417217), Cotterell Housc, 69

cOlrlpany, Trasinediterranea, gets sO:Tle compctition on sclcctcd routcs iom a fcw other outits.Ylou should get a hold of all the relevant tirnetables f=om a travel agent

as carly in your trip as possible to beter plan ahead your isiand hopping.13elow is a quick suininary of routes operated by the various conlpanies. For nlore detailed in‐

formation,refcr to thc Getting Thcre& Away sections under the appropriatc desti‐ nations.

Ferry

Mcadrow,Godalming,Surrey GU7 3HS,

Trasinediterinea operates roll― on roll‐ off car ferries to rnttOr po■ s around the isiands.

Britain.It can supply information to

Betwcen Las Palmas dc Cran Canaria and

(●

mernbers on cycling conditions,itineraries

Santa Cruz dc´「 cncrifc thcrc arc one or two

and cheap insurance. Menlbership costs UK￡ 25 perannum or UK￡ 12.50 1or pcoplc

dCpanures three Or fOur days a wcck(the

aged under i8.

Cy Ofjetお 1l

lack of fcrrics is cxplained by thc nrcqucn_ SeⅣ iCCS).

114 Getting Around― Boat

interisiand Boat Travel Ferries Dapα′ ′昴 ?ρ O:′ ′ D`s′ ′ ″α″ο″ “las dc Gran Canaria Santa Cruz dc Tencrifb Las Pal● Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Pueno deliRosario Las Palmぉ de Gran Canaria Arreci偽

。::″ η ヵ:

D″ ″ α′ ρ″ 3)4 hours

2700 ptas 3500 ptas

8 hours 7 hours(direct)

3500 ptas

or 14 hours(via

Fueneventura) Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Morro Jable

3 hours

Santa Cnlz de la Palma

13)ろ

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Pueno deliRosario

8 hours

4600 ptas

Santa Cmz de Tcnerit

Arrec:た

20 hous(via Las

4600 ptas

3100 ptas 3500 ptas

hours

Palmas& Los Cristianos(Tcncri偽 )

Fuerteventun) 5 hours( a

Santa Cruz de la Palma

2690 ptas

San Sebasti`n de la

Gomera) Pueno dcl Rosario

ArrecIお

3 hours

1050 ptas

EI Hiero

Los Cristianos(■ neri偽 )

5 hours

2350 ptas

san sebastian de la

3%hours

2350 ptas

タhours

1920 ptas

EI Hie“ o

Gomem Los Cristianos(Tenerifb)

San Scbastiin de la orncra

lン

Co口 .alc」 o(Fucrtcvcntura)

l hour

D`s″ ″α″ο″

ι),7α ″0"

(〕

Playa Blanca(Lanz:vote)

1700‐

1800,as

JerOiis Dι ′α′ r″ ″ ρο:″ ′

7“ γ 0″ ′‐ ッ

ο″●ノ αF′ ″″′ αSS.″″ ′ ρ″″たみο′ Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Salta Cm2 de Teneri偽

80 minutes 80 mlnutes

Santa Ct■ 12 de Tenerife

Mo口 o

Jablc

Morro Jablc ( a Lぉ Palmas)

3)4 hours

3200/5600/7200 ptas

NA/5600/7200 ptas NA/8000/10,500 ptas

Hydrofoils D′ ρα ″ ′ ″´

″′

`ρ San Sebastian dc la Gonlera

D`s″ ″ ο″ `″ Los Cristianos(Teneri偽

San Scbastiin de:a Gonlera

Vallc de Gran Rey

45 minutcs 30 minutes

Los Cristianos(Tcnerife)

Vlalle de Glran Rey

lン l

O′

(

D″ ′ α″ο′ )

hours

― 0″ ′ ″ッ カ″ 1920 ptas 1000 ptas 2350 ptas

a San Seb“ tMn

dela Gomem)

About three times a week,tries depart

ioin )th Las Palmas and Santa Cruz de Tenerit lor Arrecit(Lanzarote),Pucno

threc weekly fen,ies be口 cen A:Tecife and Pucno dcl Rosario.

del Rosario(Fueneventura)and Santa Crt2

Several daily ferries operate li・ onl ILos CriStianOS(SOuth‐ WeSt TenerifC)tO San Se‐

dc la Palma(La Palma).Similarly,thcrc are

bastian de la Gomera(La Gomcra).A dany

Ge■ ing Around― Local Transpon l15

ferry plics thc Los Cristianos‐

El l‐ licrro

route.:Every other day thcy call at San Sc‐ basti`n dc la Gornera en route.

C)ther ferry cornpanics also operate ineas Fred く )lscn has trries betwcen Los Cristianos(Tenerit),

sarnc as thc San Sebasti`n de la Gorncra‐ EI I「

lierro fare, although thc latter trip is

ShO■ Cr).TimCtableS are SutteCt tO ChangC, so you should check out the latest infornla‐

lilTlited services. 1_′

tiOn On the spOt.

san sebastian de la(]Omera and santa cruz de la Palina.´ hc same cOInpany alsO runs 「 lour felTics a day bctween Santa Cruz de

Infants travel■ ee and children"om two to 12 ycars pay half price_ E′ U nationals ovcr 60 years old should al、 vays ask about 20シ もreductions. 1‐ Iolders of the Carnet

Tenerife and Agaete in Gran Canaria,and lour a day bet、 veen Lanzarotc (Playa

Joven(Euro26)gct 35%o“

Blanca)and Fucrtcvcntura(Con・

discounts lor group travel.For instance Trasinediterrinea has a′ α9ン ara α力ο′″ ο

ale」

。

)・

Naviera Armas runs trries iom Santa Cruz de Tenerifc to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria(at leaSt OnCC daily)_

Tlle same company opcratcs fcrries Las Painlas and ヽ4orro Jable in Fucrteventura(dany),Arrecit(three times

The trry companics somctimcs offer

(SaVingS paCkagC)fOr grOupS Of fOur With onc car.AIso,groups of 20 or rnore are en―

titled to 20%off.NoΠ nal cars cost iom

bct、 veen

2000 ptas to 10,500 ptas to transport, de‐

a week)and Pueno del Rosario(twicc a

pcnding on the destination.Motorbikcs cost flom 950 ptas to 2600 ptas and bicycles go ぉr icc with Trasmcditerranea(this is″ 。′

WCCk).It alSO hお bur runS a day betWeen COrral可 。and Piaya BlanCa. Jelroi! High‐ speed

the CaSe On thC Other lineS).

LOCAL TRANSPORT jetfoils makc the crOssing

In the handful of cities throughout the

betwccn Las Palinas de(3ran lCanaria and Santa Cruz dc Tcnerife in 80 minutes.Therc

port system,the average visitOr wOn't need

arc■ oln thrcc to■ vc dcpartures daily,de―

to use it much anyway. Accornrnodation,

isiands large enOugh tO need a public‐

trans‐

pending on the day and scason.Jetfoils also

restaurants,bars and attracti()ns are in nlost

link Las Palmas with Moro Jable(Fuerte‐

cases concentrated in a srnall area.

Ventura).ThCrC iS gCnCrally One departurC a

day except Sunday,although in iOw seasOn (such as November),seⅣ ices can dЮ p as iow as twicc a week.

Hydrofoil A hydrofoil scrvice links ILos Cristianos (T'enerife)tO San SebaSti`:1l and Valle de

Gran Rett both on La Gomera.Boats leave

Bus Bus companies operate fairly extensive ser‐ vices in the t、 vo capitals, a1lowing you to gct flo■l thc centrc to bus stations and air‐

pOns cheaply and with li■ le fuss.

City Taxi ・Ilaxis in the

cities use ineters.´

「 he

llagfall is

up to four times a day.

150 ptas in´Ilenerife and 165 ptas in(]ran Canaria.Anerthat you pay 52 ptas pcr kilo‐

Fares&Travel Tiines

metrc.Surcharges of 50 ptas(55 ptas in TCnerit)aЮ impOSCd bri traVCl betWCen

・

I｀

he table on the preceding page sets out

sarnple fares and travei tinles for the nlain try,jetお 1l and hydroお 1l seⅣ iccs between the isiands.As a lrule, fares between rival COrnpanieS dO nOt Vary SubStantially(but it

iS alWayS WOnh cOmparing). 1lζ

ou'1l noticc that in sorne cases the sanle

fare is charged for trips of varying length (eg the Los Cristianos‐ EI Hieno fare is thc

10 pnl and 6 anl;travcl on Sunday and hol‐ idays;fares to airports;fares to the docks in

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de Tlenerife;and for each piece ofluggage carried(Teneriた only).By European stan‐ dards,city taxis in the Canaries are cheap.

lriOu may nOtice on the rOOf Of taxis a

grccn light and the nurnbcrs l, 2 and 3.

116 Cetting Around― Orgalised TOurs

When he geen lightis on thc cab is iee.

・

he nurnbers refbr to the kind offare.Nol is what you should exPCCt,as this is the I・

slぬridard

city zone.F'are types 2 and 3 apply tO tripS WhiCh take■ e CabS。 ■ Oftteir Ciり zone(Lぉ P」 mas b the al■ )Ortね Is into

SC山 ´ → ・In

theSe C8eS,ぬ e paSSenger d∝ sn'tpり a nagね 11。 rany s.charge.

ORCANISED TOuRS ,Iζ

ou'1l stunlble into a fbrest oftour possibil‐

e main Юurist rsorts.lhey ralge 彙oin bog s● ndard tours ofwhicheverisiand yOu happen to be on,to、 ″hale― spotting and ities in

deep_sea nshing cxcursions. various 。 メ10nS aC mentiOned hrOuJ10■ he deSti‐ ■激ion chapters.

，

´ 「 he(E〕 anariones, as the isianders tend to

HIGHLIGHTS

refcr to thcrnsclves, like to think of Gran

C)anaria as a`continent in nliniature'.And although the startling range ofterrain,fヤ orn thc fertile nolth to thc arid intcriOr and desert south,largely justincs the claim,it

A…

           

・   

︲

a■ractivc

of thc Canary lsiands.But it all depcnds on your tastes. If you're after a ba11-breaking beachsidc nightlife with the onc― wcck chal■ er― flight crowd, then the

Stro‖

わ ア

′ ′   ／中 。      ‘ ′    Ｈ ・ ︰ ●     ′   醐 ′ ‘ デ イ 一      ′   一１′       ｒ ・ “  〓       ″

・

Ю

residents,accounts fOr alinOst halfthe arch‐ ipclago's population. In many respects this is perhaps thc lcast

ｍ        ‘ ”        ・ “・ ・ ・・       ・  ︲

●﹄ 嚇

´  ／

“一

‘ コ ﹁ ﹄

than,say,on・ Ilenerifc. ｀ ■hc island,coveringi 1560 sq kin,is the third largest ofthe group but,、 vith 714,200

／ ´

¨ｔ

has to be sald that this is nO rnOre the case

レ越 arOte′

ing through theヽ ゛ egueta quaner Of

Las Palmas Enioying a seafood lunch on the wateト frontin lPuerto de!as Nieves

Playa dcl lng16s scene is rnarginally prefer‐

VVandering over the expansive sand dunes of Maspalomas Exploring the fishing port town Of Puerto de Mogan

able to'Ilenerifb's cquivalent, Playa de las

Am6ricas― if only becausc of me pre■ y duncs of Maspalonlas. C)thel,visc,thc capital Las Palinas is a busy,happening city and wo■ h a visitiR)r its historic old quarter,nightlife and thc g。 lden sands of Playa de las Canteras.Surfers can pick up sorne、 vaves there and offMaspalo‐

Cruising the bars of Las Palrnas, foト

lowed by a lazy day on F'laya de las (:)anteras ・ :Driving along the scenic route frorn Agaete to Aldea de lSan lNico!as on the is:and's west coast

rnas,alld windsurfcrs are in heavcn lon the south―cast coast.

Thc interior is a world away,Om both thc capital and the southern reso“

wo■ lh 、 vhat

s,and Canaria cameto be consideκ d Gmn(big)is

cxploring.It is nevel威 lheless a sOrne‐

arid al優

iair and■‐ ankly lcss captivating

also open tO questiOn. SOmc say it was

than the v。 lcanic splendours Of・ rlenerife or

becausc the Spaniards thOughtthe 10cals put

the nlountainous westenl islands.

up a big ilght while resisting the

History Gran Canaria was kno輌

and others simply say thatthe isiand was at one pOint thOught the biggest in the archi‐ pelago.

to its Original in‐

habitants as Tamaran,which sch。

la・

s have

([〕

οο″クンブ s′ α ,

く )nqucst began in earncst with Juan

Re」 6n's

ianding in 1478.Rej6n beat or a counterattack by Doramas but、 vas soon succeeded by Pedro de Vcra,who pressed

linked with thc Arabic nanle for`iate palms

α″α′).ThiS SOundS taSible,but COuld nOt go back much beyond the 8th century,whcn the Muslinl Arabs invaded Morocco. Later,it appears the isiand was known to the lRomans as Canaria.SpeculatiOn as tO 、 vhy is discussed in the History section Of (′

horne the canlpaign in the f0110wing five years. 1｀ he turning point、 vas the cOnversiOn of the (〕 uanche

the Facts About the lslands chaptcr.How

chief ・enesor Semidan to I｀

Christianity.In April 1483 hc convinced his

117

一 Ｆン ● 讚 ０ 澤 ＞ Ｚ Ｏ ＞ ２ ＞ 力 一 ＞

Isia de Gran Canaria

118 1sla dc Gran Canaria― History

8

laV■

r‐"ヽLL麟 雲 ¨′ RoⅢ N… て `摯

Isla de

LAS PAL“ AS DE

CRtt CANAR:A

¨ ﹄

Gran

PLy● de LI●

¨ ¨

▲響lmi」・

ト

印暦a魃

▲ Mttm6 ▲

″Ю′ ,“

_Po“

rを

中rign`o

PLy3

count:・ yrnen

﹄ ｍｈ ．ぬ

ATLANTIC OCEAN

to lay down their arms and

subrnit.

The isiand was soon colonised by a

●

clincd bcfore its rllain rival and superior wine― g・ owcr,Tencrit.It was not until the

late 19th century that(〕 ran Clanaria recov‐

ragtag assortinent of adventurers and land― less hopenlls fiorn as far away as Galicia,

ered its pOsitiOn.′rb this day the ttvo islands

AndalucFa, Ponugal, Italy, France, thc Low Countrics and evcn Brimin and lre‐

to rnost ofthe isiands'pel■

land.

Initially,the island boomed on the back of sugar expollls and trans‐ Atlantic trade between Spain and the Americas.But as the deinand for Clanary lsiands sugar fell and the fOnunes Ofwinc≦ ダ.ew,sO the isiand de‐

remain rivals and,be● ″een them,are home mlanent populace.

Maps

´ 「 he single best inap ofthe isiand is Crα ″ Cα ″α′ ゴ α,published by Distimapas Telstar

(500,as).It comes wim accurate ci,maps of Las Palinas,Maspalonlas and Playa del lng16s,and various othcr towlls.

Accommodation

■一 一■〓 ‘〓〓 ，

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria― HistOry l19

The problein is that each colmpany re_

Away n・ om Las Palinas and the sOuth coast

quires yOu tO buy a separate card for their

resorts,accommodation is remarkably thin

SerViCeS.1｀ he

on the ground.As a rule you shOuld not

Municipales(thc Las Palmas urban scⅣ ice)

havc toO rnuch trOuble in thc capital,but the

are cOnsidering pooling resOurccs and

。vernowing in high

corning up with a card valid on ali serviccs, ′ urban or intcrcity. 「 his wOuld bc handy

resonis can be n,1l t。

season. There is also a growing network of`α

sα s

′ ″″ α′ ω (there arc 18 so偽 o On the islmd. ou can organise trips involving stays in such country houses,cOrnbined with hiking and other healthy activities, by calling

two companies and(3uaguas

(and bring the island into line with Tenerit and La Palrna, where the One 2000‐ ptas tiCket Can be uSed On any buS SerViCC).

'xζ

● 928666445.

Ge

ng There&Away

Las Pa:『 nas

de Gran

Canarla

Air The AcΥ opuerto de Gando on(Gran Canaria is,along with the two on Tenerife, the rnain hub in the islands.There are con‐ nCCtiOnS tO ali the other isiands except La Omera,as、 vell as regular nights to inain_ ([〕

p″ 花清ο ″ ・′ο

θθ

`5`θ his is the big sn10ke,the only place in the Canary lsiands with that unmistakeable big_ l｀

land Spain, and a raft Of international

ciり 'feel.OK,it

SChedulCd and Chaltcr flights. For rnorc dctails,see the Las Palinas Getting There& Away section below.

languOr yOu'd associate with the Mediter‐ ranean or No■ h Alrica, but thc snarled

Sea Fenies and jetfOils link Gran Canaria with Tenerife,Lanz、rote and Fuertevcntura, using Las Pallnas and Agacte pons.See the Ge■ ing´ here&Away sectiOns under these r｀

oozes the kind Of sunny

tramc,bustling shoppingi districts and thriv_ ing pott all give Offthe energy ofr″ a city. The hiStOriC Centre iS riCh in intereSt(if Sma11),and the reStaurant and bar‐ lined

Playa de las Canteras could kcep the averagc hedonist busy fOr days.1｀ he llavour

destin誠 lons fOr mOre dctails.

is Spanish, with a hcavy intcrnational

Getting Around

ovcrlay. IJnlike in the sOuthcrn res01ls, hOwevet the fbreign crowd in Las Painlas

Bus′ 「 wo bus cOmpanics prOvide thc island With a prCtty g00d transpo■ l nctwork.「 Fhe green Salcai(● 928381110)buses cOver the SOuth(inCluding the airp。 ■),While the Orange and bluc buses of Utinsa(● 92836

is a more eclcctic inix ofstraggling tourists, COntainer― ship crews and ali sOrts Of other unlikely iniSitS that inCVitably SeeFn tO turn

8335)trry passengers tO the nonh and

buSeS it makeS SenSe to get a Taゴ eta Dinero

and quiet or an uncOnlplicated beach‐ bar sccne with English breakfasts thrOwn in, Las Palinas、 vill probably seel■ like tOO inuch of a headache.Perhaps that's a good

centre of thc isiand.

If you plan to move around a lot on the

up in port citics.

For nlost tourists in search ofeither peace

for 2000 ptas(available at the Estaci6n de

thing,but ifyOu like a little city activity,thc

《uaguas in Las Palmas and bus stations

place rewards at least a couple of days'at_

arounci the isiand, as wcll as nlany

tention.

[〕

neWSagCntS).TFiOu uSe it inStCad Of buying nOrnlal tickcts,and savc about 30%over the

History

standard ticket prices_inselltthc card in thc

Although Jean de Bё thencourt's partner in

rnachine on the bus,tell the driver where you are going and the arnount is deductcd om the card.

mischief,Gaditr de la Sane,saned past

fl・

here in 1403,it、 vasn't unti1 1478 that Euro‐

peans made a deternlined landing in the

.81= =を

￨

く一 α く Ｚ く Ｏ Ｚ く に Ｏ Ш● く Ｊ ∽ ︼

120 Las Palmas dc Gran Canaria

９ｔ ０ ■ 趣 ●ヽ ，

お譜 工 甲 ・ど

ミ Ｒ〓

・ 4“ 0

Q

3i

: ミ _ 0

詩

量 書 言

□ 与

□

t

ヽヽ

］一

ヽ ヽ

一電一ヽヽヽ ｏ０

υ ヾ ヽ＾ 、 ” ′     ﹃ ヽ  ゛

●５ヽＪＣＯ一 ＯＣＯＬ ００ ｏで Ｂ ● ５ ｏ５ Ｌ Ｏト

ＯＥヽ一 ●一 ０一 ０工 ００ ０一 ＣｔＣ０３●

Ｃ一 ＣＣの 一 ０一 ０工 ００

ＯＣ一 ＯｍＯ ‘ＣＣ〓 ０一 〇〇

Ь 荀Ｅく ｏｔ● Ｄ● ｏｏ● ００ ０〓０００Ｃ ●ＯＣ●Ｆに０エ ｃｔ ｅ コ理０●“ Ｎ０ ｏ●﹄ ｏこ ●ｏ●０・”０ 一 ０´ ０〇 一 Ш ｏｔ ● ３ ｏＯに ００ ，

３ １ ｃ８ 一 ３ ∽ＯｔｏＥ”ｔ●０く り

ｏｏｔｏＥｃ ｃ ヽ ０劇 ，ｃ こＯＬｃｃ〓 ，０ のｏｔｏＥｃｒ ０９ヽ ＮＮ ， Ｓ ｔｏ●■

ｏｏだｏＥｃｔｃ ヽ Ｎｏ ， ｏｏ‘ＯＥ●〓０９ヽ ｏｏ

００ＣＯＣＯＯ ＣＯ●０２ 一

コ﹂ ０● 一 一

＆﹂ ５ ０ 卜り Ｏｔ ８ ８ ＞ ９ 一

□ 国

ゞ三]

8

、ヽ ヽ＼ ヽヽ 、＼ ヽヽ

た く ”０ ０ ０ 一● た ヽ 日“ ヽ

ｏに属〓 “﹄ ｏ●ロ

０ ８ モ ●ピュ く︶ｏＯ一 δ ち〓 ｏ卜 Ｓ

，

●乏 ｃ８ ｏＯ 一 雷Ｂ ｔ０ ８ 一 ０＞０， コ２ ﹂０〓Ｃ 一 〇０ “Ｎ理 ● ０● ＯＣ﹄０００Ｓ一０■く

５０ ３ ３ ０■ ５ ｏ ８一

‘ 一 Ｒ ︶８ ｏ８ ョξ 窮 ８ ｏＯｃБ ８ ８ 一３ Ｅ ョｇ Ш お ● ０一 つＢ く ０■ ξ ど あ ●０●３ 一 ，■ ︶ ｃコ０こう０ ２ ● ｏト

‘ コ ００ Ｎ２ ０● ２ 毒 ●ト

〓 彗ミ

さｏ Ｆε ヽも

＼ヽ

９ ヒ０一ョト

０〇三の ｘ●Ｌ ● ＯｃＯ一●   ０

，

。面 ｃＳ ｔＯＦマ ｏ３ ﹄ ●３ｏｃ〓３●一 ‘一 ＞ 卜一 む ＯＥ 理 ● 〓０一 ７一 マ ０¨

、 ６ ０日 ５ 〓 ３ Ｅ Ｏ δ 〓 ●２ Ｅ Ｏｐ●卜 ヽ０＾ る﹂００ 〇一 ●５０つｏＬｏ■ ● ９ 一ＯＣＯト ●● Ｎｅ Ｏ コ 烏 ０ ９ ｏ〓０●０つ

Ｅ Ｐ む ｏＬ １ 一 Ｏ●Ｆ、く 一 〓０ ●２ ●

８ 員 ＹＯも Ｆ ８ ■ ，２ ｏＣＥヽ く 雪０ 暉Ｚ ト ，

Ｎョコ ０一ｐ︶ｐ 〓ち 口Ｏ Ｎ き ０﹂ Ｓ ＣＥ ９ 一 ３ ＬＯ● 卜 一

９８ ３ ８

ＯＤ 〓０一 Ｌ

Ｏ●

Ｂ Ｅ●８ 〓 導

０・ Ｃ●〓００二〇   ０● ｏ“０ 卜●

Ｅ ●３ 工 ｃｃ●３ｇ Ｌ ８ Ｎ８ ３ ８ ●８ ８ 〇一 ﹁０ ■一 卜Ｎ 一 ■ ●３一 こ一 あ● りＮ ， ， 一 ８日 ヽ 口９ く ︵ Ｎ ０００〇一 ０ ● ０●く●

ｏ亘 コ２ ８ ３ ０ ●ト ｐ ●﹁ｏｃｏＯ 〓０ち ， ０ ００ ｏ亘 ョＯｃ８ ︶ｏ３ ｃａ ●つ Ｂ

０● ■く ヨ ヨ ● ２ ０ ●

Ｎ︸

ｐ ●３ｏｃ︵ δ Ｒ３３０ヨｔＯＬ 倒一 ０毒 ５０ＥＯ０ ０コ 一● Ｌ ００ ︹ ｐ Ｏ﹁ｏＥ００ ｃ●¨ あ

ＤＯＣ０〇 一ｏう ０〓 り ‘ Ｙ Ｄ ｏ●¨ ”一

一 Ｅ Ｅ ρ

一 ︵

ヽグ

８ ｏ８ コヽ ３ ０ ８ ０てＯＣＣＯ ＣＣヽ０ ●０﹂０３一ｃ， 一０一一 ●ＣＯ 〇０ ●﹄ ●﹄ 一 ０コ ト● ●Ｉ あ ｇ Ｆ Ｅ ３ ３■ ３ 一 ｏ卜 ヽ８ 會 ﹂ ”〓 Ｓ ８ ｃ一 ８ 〓 Ｅ Ｌ ｃ８ ８ 〇一 一 ３８ ３ ０一０ト ０Ｅ 一 ●卜 ●●０ ００Ｃ一 〇０一 ｏ● Ｐ ３ ８ ６ １ ちｕ ヽ ， ﹁ゝｏＬ ００ｃ●菫ョ〓 ０ト ０一 ０つ●０●０ ト ０コ 一 ●ｔ ●●コちШ 一 ０﹀●ＯＣ０ ０ ，ト ａ ｃ〓 一 ３ ●３ ● ｇ Ｎト ヽ８ Ｅ Ｅ ｃ 〓 一２ １ ■ ト ﹂ ３ ２ ●３ ３〓 ８ ， ０Ｅｏ一３卜 ゝ０● 一●●， ■一“ う ｅ 〓００ ， ● ｅ ８ ８ ｏ５３ ● お ■ＣＯ●０２ ●０〓ＯＬ ００ 一 ９ て００ ●２０ ０●一●ｃｃ０ ０︵ ３３● ０● ｏ Ｅ Ｙ Ｏ¨ ０■マ ０一０〓０３く い お ， り、 Ｅ ｏ卜 ﹄ ８一 ｏ０ ８ ２ ｏ■ ０ “ ●面 ゴ 一 ２ 一Ｅ Ｒ ︶ 零， ●０あ て ８ セ ●３ ● ８ 一 ‘ Ｒ こ ｃｏ〓 Ｅ Ｏ ｃ〓●〓ョ０ト トマ ， ｃＯ ■Ｄ Ｅ ９ｏｏヽ ５‘ ０面 ●２ ９〓 ｔ〓 ９ ｏ３ Ｓ 一ｃヨ ち ■ 一 ５の ●一●Ｃ●Ｏ ＣＥ Ｏ ︸ ０ ●０〓０ ０ｃｏ〓Ｌ Ｏ ９ ● 卜 ３ 〓 ＞ ｃ８ ﹁工 一” ｔ８ く 一 ，

83838ら

●ｒ＞ ０国 ０ 澤＞２ ０＞Ｚ＞力一 ＞ 一

Las Palmas de Cran Canaria 121

122 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria― Orientation

ca.That ycar Juan Re」 6n and his troops set up canlpjust south ofLa lsieta,narning

a・

it Real de las Palinas.Asthe conquest ofthe island proceeded,the original nlllitary camp

began to take on a 11lore penm.anent iook, and so the barrio ofSan Antonio Abad,later known as lν legue● ,began to cxpand.

By thc time Christophcr Coluinbus sailed by on his way to the Americasin 1492,the busy li■ le hub ofthe old town had already been traced out.Evcrybody likcs to clailTl a

hero for their vcry own, but it appears

、 vas the British who introduced the Arst water mains,clcctricity company and tele―

phOnc cxchange to the city in the carly years of the 20th century. Howcvcr, it all carne apart before the outbreak ofWWIl,as coal‐ ■red ships gradually rnade way for nlore nlodern vcsscls. Still,thc ciり 'S prOSperity had becomc such that Madrid co11ld no longer resist calis

′ fOr the islands to be divided into t、 、 o provinces.Las IPalmas thus becarne capital of Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura and iLan‐

Columbus did not put in to pott hcre,pre‐ ferring instead to push on to La Gomcra.

zarote in 1927.

Lぉ Palmas grew quickly as a commcr― cial ccntre, and in rccognition of its

the coup in July 1936 thatlcd to the Spanish Civil War in 1936‐ 39.

impo試 ance the seat ofthe bishopric of thc (E)anary lsiands was transferred here fiorn

was」 Frst felt in the isiands,Las Palrnas has

Lanzarote

grown iom a middling pon city of 70,000

halfway

through thc

1 6th

century.

Las Palnlas, along with thc rcst of the archipclag。 , bcnentcd grcatly 6rOrn thc

I_′

as Palinas was、vhcre Franco launched

Since the 1960s,when the tourism boolll

souls to a bustling rnetropolis of up to half

a minion(ifthc noating element Ofthe pop_ ulation is taken into account).And whnc it

Spanish conqucst of Latin America and thc subsequent trans‐ Atlantic tradc. 13ut you have to take the good with the bad,and the

sharcs cvenly the status of rcglonal capital

isiands werc a favouritc target with pirates

centre.

with Santa Cruz dc .Tencrife, thcrc is no vo is thc rnain doubt about、 vhich of thc lし、

and buccaneers of ali nations.In 1595,Sir Francis E)rakc raided Las Palinas with par‐ ticular gusto.Four years iatcr a still nlore

orienlntion Las Palmas is the only ci″ in thc Canary

detcrrrlincd E)utch band of advcnturers

lsiands、vhere you might fccl a little over‐

rcduced much ofthe to、 vn to ruins. In 1821,Santa(Elruz dc・ 1lenerife was de― clared the capital ofthe singic ncw Spanish

whelmed.lt stretches,om the old historical centre in the south,centrcd on the Vegucta and l｀ riana districts, up a series of long

province ofLas lsias Canarias.Those in Las

boulcvards towards the bustling Santa

Pallnas were not overly impressed,but

Catalina and Puc,威 o dela Luz― a good 3knl.

redress was sorne tiinc in corning.

Thc fortuncs of thc p。 ■ ciり nuctuatcd 、 vith thosc ofthc rcst ofthc isiands as boorn

followed bust in a chain of cash‐ crop cyclcs. Howcvcr, Las Palrnas began to go

its own way towards the end of the 19th vas due in no slllall century, and this 、 rneasure to the growing British presence in thc city.

Thc tradingね milics of thc Miners and Swanstons wcrc alrcady、 vcll cstablishcd by the timc Sir Al缶 ed Lcwis Jones set up the

Grand Canary Coaling Company in Las

Frorn thcrc it continucs up to what was once a islct off the isiand,still called iLa lslcta.

Most of what w‖ i bc ofintcrest to sittt‐ sccrs is concentrated in Vegucta.・ here is a slnall tOurist Ofice here,butthc rnain one is I｀

in Santa Catalina, close to thc 3krn‐long golden sands of Playa de las Canteras,bars and shops. ・ 「 he bulk ofthe hotels are concentratcd in Santa(:〕 atalina,ncar IPlaya dc las(Clantcras and the lport. You'11 lnd plcnty of rcstau‐

rants inヽ v4egueta and'Triana,but again the

Palmas.´ he city nOurished as a crucial re_

vhich is action is around Santa Catalina, 、 also where the majoriツ Of the discos and

nuelling stop for trans‐ Atlantic shipping.It

nightclubs are.

「

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria― InfOnnatiOn 123

Born to be a Repub‖ can it must have been one oflthe mOst thankless● sks wil、 which a Spaniard has beenlen‐ trusted this century.AppOittme■ as head of the iactious Repub:ican govemment in ‐‐ Madnd nevertheiess galvanised Juan Negrfn into a ften4y.oF action・ a::Of which、 ″ould prO“ fu‖e in Spite of hも e椰。蔭 unti:the laSt・ ￨ Neg n was bom in Las Pa:mas de CranlCana a on 3 February 1394.As he g図 げup far,om the hu■ v‐ bu‖ v Ofthe continent he cou!d have:1‖ ●suspected what wou:d be his fate― the poisoned cttice Ofl16↓ brin a govemmentd∞ m劇 的 卜。 wn in■ hting tO卸 and thereater an ignominious exiie in F“ ance,1″here he died On 14 Novernber 1956.. .

:￨

This is the only city in the Canaries where you will probably need tO use the

trance to thc Pueblo CanariO cOnlplex.'This

local bus service(see Geting Around

is not too 、 vell equipped either. It Opens Monday to Friday l[onl 10 anlto l p■ l and

be10W).

5 to 8 pln.

Maps・ 「 he local public_transport map is the

opcn Monday to Saturday floln 10 arn tO

ヽlet another tOurist infOnnatiOn Ofice is best city plan― it has a yellow cOver and is called Zα C′ ″aα ″,E″ G″ αg″ α.Ylou can get

it at tourist ofEces and the lE.staci6n de Guaguas nearthe Parque de San Tlelmo.

5.30 pm in the Ayuntarnie■

o(tom han)on

Plaza dc Santa Ana.It has even iess in thc line ofbrochures and the like,but can hclp out with local information and does keepl a hand‐ written list of pensiones―

more than

information TOuriSt 01rices The inain(D■ cina de ln‐ fonnaci6n y Turismo(● 928264623)is in

the others nlanage! Finally,tounst infonnation is also avail― ablc ata booth on Avenida dc Mcsa y I二 6pez

thc Parquc de Santa Catalina,in the no■

by thc Cone lng16s dcpartmcnt storc:

h of

the city.It is opcn only Monday to Friday orn 9 ain to 2 prn,and thc infornlation fi・

available leaves something to be desired.

T'here is a Centro de lniciativas y Turismo(‐ 928243593)juゞ

inside the en―

Foreign Consulates For a list of fbrcign consulates in Las PallTlas, sec the Em― bassies scction in the Facts fbr the Visitor chapter.

124 Las Palinas de Glran Canaria― Infonnation

Money Las Palmas has plenり ofbanks and in most you can change cash or cheques,get 「rヽ4s.(こ )alle de a cash advance or use the」へ ・ riana has several. I｀

soine,try the Librerfa del Cabildo lnsular dc Gran Canaria,Cane del Travieso 15. Ifyou need to stock up on maps,La Casa del Mapa,Paseo de・ rionl`s Morales 58,is

Ainerican Express is represented by Vittes lnsular('928227950/4),江 Cane

the place to go.

de lLuis Morote 9.It is also the only agent in the isiand fbr rcceiving nloney transfё rs

Culturai Centres The British Council

throutt MoncyGram. ヽ′ estcrn Union,for emergency money

Palmasitsell ltis atthc Antiguo Edincio de

(● /ね x928355256)is

no longcr in Las

transtぉ ,has al oficc at the airpo威 .It is

Cicncias Econ6nticas y Einprcsariales, Campus Universitario de Taira,Calle de

also rep"sented by Mall Boxes Etc,Cane

Saulo・ Iior6n4.IJtinsabuslヽ lo327 goesthere.

de los Martinez de lEscobar 5.

Laundry Strange as it:nay seem in a big

big post ofnce is iocated on Parque de santa

port city,the only coin‐ operated laundre■ c ever opened in Las Pallnas went bust within a yetr.The“ arc plenty of traditional′ a‐

Catalina.T'he postcodc lR)r Las Palinas is

να″′ Fas and dry cleaners around if you

35080.

don't`″wantto do your own washing.

Post The main Correos y Tel`grafos is at

Avenida del Prilnero de Mayo 62.Another

Telephone& Fax Several small public phone ofnces are dottcd abOut santa catali_

Medicai Services The Hospital lnsular 928 444000)is at Plaza del I)octor

(●

na.(Dne is at Calle de Luis Morote 12;

Pasteur s/n,several kilornetres south of the

anothcr on Calle de Ripoche even has a few tattcred phone books.

city along the Avenida Maritinla dei Sur

E:Tlailマiou can scnd cmail■ om the Casa del Estudiante,:Pasco de・ 110FniS Morales 48.

(WhiCh bCCOmeS the main mOtOrWay SOuth to Mぉ palomas). ´ I｀

hcrc arc several walk― in clinics dotted

about the Santa([)atalina and beach area. (I)ne, called lnterclinic, is at Paseo de las

Travei Agencies ViaJes lnsular(sec

Canteras 62.

MIoney above)is reliable,as is Halc6n.The latter has several ofnces across town, in_

Luis Morote 5. Another, open until mid―

cluding onc(● 928279406)at Cane del Gcneral Vives 77.

A24‐ hour phal■rlacy is open at Calle de night,is at Calle de Le6n y IClastillo 162. I。 、 vcvc.they only inll urgcnt prcscriptions 1‐

aner normal shopping hours.

Student a Vouth inforination The TIVE student travel organisation(●

9283691

Ennergency For an ainbulance cali the

96)is at Pぉ eo de Tomお Momles 48,in the

Cruz Rola on,928222222.For policc

Casa del Estudiante.

CFnergenCy numberS, SCe the bOXed aSidC called ln Case of Ernergency in the Facts

Gay&Lesbian inforrnation For infonma‐

for the Visitor chaptcr.The national police

tiOn abOut gay groups in thc isiands,vn・ ite in advance to the Colcctivo dc Gays y lLcs‐

HQ(● 928361136)isjust by PIγ a

bianas dc Las Palmas,Apartado dc Correos

de las

Alcaravaneras.

707,35080 Las Palmas.

Dangers&Annoyances Las Palmas is

Bookshops PrObably the best boOkstOrc in town isthe Casa del Libro,Paseo de Tlom`s

palpably the dodgicst. Drug abusers loiter ab。 ■ muCh Ofthe Ciり and,aS a ma10r p。 ■

Morales 46. For all you ever wantcd to

a lot of shady characters are inevitably on the nlovc in and out ofthc placc.

nOt only the largest city in thc isiands,but

kno、v about the Canary lsiands, and then

,

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria―

All this ineans is that you should take the

standard city strectwisc precautions.Carリ

Viegueta&Triana 125

dominant style,plttersquc in a gothic key,

as little inoney and as few valuables On yOu

betays the carlier beginnings Of cOnstruc‐ tion.The gothic retablo above the high altar

as possible.LeNe″ ο″ルg ofvaluc(pretr‐

comes iom Cttaluia in mainland Spain,

ably nothing tt an)in cars,cspecia‖ y the

while the exquisite lamp hanging befOre the

hircd variety.

altar WaS made in CenOVa(Italy). Rcstoration 、 vork, begun in 1995, is nearly complete. At the tiine of writing entiぅ 7 to the cathedral 、 vas via lle muse。

At night, avoid dark quiet streets and parks. ・ he Parque de San Tlelino, for in― 「 stancc, is crawling with down‐ and‐ outs

CVen during the day (althOugh they are prCW harinleSS in dayliま

t).

If unhealthy hOOkcrs with attitude hanging around in doo口 ,vays are your scene,

head for(Clalle del Molino de Viento, a block west ofCalle de Lc6n y(〕

astillo.Oth―

erwisc, this louche zone is also best avoldcd.

1=3(臼

two levcis around thc Pdio de los Na・

a■ os

(Orm"Tree COur,ad),OnCC hOme tO the lnquisition.It contains a Fairly standard col―

lcction of religious art and rncnlorabilia, including centurics― old manuscripts,a goOd deal of wooden sculptures and other orna‐ ■lents.

The museunl and cathedral are Open

V● luo● こ￢

Ca3」

Diocesano,whOse entr′ 田ice is at Callc del Espfritu Salto 20.The museum is set on

"anaCO:6■ Ode

This is a tЮ aut ill

Monday to Friday fiom 9 am to l.30 prn

eX3mpl● “ OF Canarian a“ hhectu壼 ,built

an,undい vo pa」 os overlooLed by th● 5nc w`)o`en balco■ les of● le upper level.1lie c,■ eno=oF tlle buildiag is i:幹 lf")lme● 疇g

of a workご ,M● so■ ●s"W pl“ eト esque eLmen、“ ■Ⅸing in original lasion wi● e io欄 n‐ miOd balcOnies,pic」 of 」lo islands ― a unique co11lbination of styles.

A[む ough iヽ ca lod ColШ lbl疇・h。 (■ "。m― iS"SSibL he S● y“ 佗,」 ●。 uユ itiS Ceitam On,uSt hOW m■ “ ly,if征 ly,。 f hiS voya86"“ ¨ lツ 髯tお゛m Las Palmぉ ), ■lost oFwLt you s,し 、 vas the residen∝ of

L8Pahぉ 'cⅢ ,Vem,膊

The coll∝ 」on inside t ara3 bag餞

1,ng

nt,ni。 1`lsea chan to pre c`)1lunbian(.lc_

ict brou● lt back'omlouthAmerlc● Ч mafし 、 v po… lts oF¨ Hヽ pmi● nemish sch∞ l●mwn iL(Ю me mOda ships and hi面 ,oF

disPIays iccmm●

tion ion

emi諄‐

o Cananesto “ South An enca

“ ltis openMonday“

F

day tom 9om"

6 pm:w“ ■ei s tom 9 an b 3pm.Enty is● ee.

Catedral de San.鮨 l Ana The city's inain place of worship was begun in the 15th century, but took 350 ycars to cornplete. ′ I｀

he exterior is neoclassical,but insidc the

Detail,Casa de Co16n(Columbus'House) in lP!aza del F'ilar Nuevo,old centre,

Las Palmas de Cran Canaria

126 Las Pa!mas de(〕 ran Canaria― Pueblo Canario&Museo N6stor

and 4 to 6.30 prn.・ rhe price ofadrnission is

300 ptas.

street in iLas Palrnas and it's now a pcdcs‐ trianised rnall.11lou need to keep your head up and cyes peeled to enjoy the li■ le archi‐

igiesia de San Antonio Abad Just behind

tectural gems, among thenl so■ lc nice

the Casa de Co16n(heading towards he wa―

exainplcs of■ lodernism,that line this busy

teriOnt), thiS little ChurCh Of mOdeSt Romanesquc‐ Canarian design is supposed‐

thoroughfare.

ly wheЮ Columbus used to pray for divine help on his missions.

Casa′ Museo de Plre2 Cald6s The Cana― ry lslands' greatest writcr, Benito P6rcz

Museo Canario The isiand's main mu‐

ald6s,w`墨 ;born in this house in the heall: ofold Las Palinasin 1843.:Hle livcd the irst (:〕

seurn is dedicated to chronicling (3ran

19 ycars of his life hcre before moving on

Canaria's prccOnquest history.It clailns to be horlle to the biggcst collection of Cro‐

toヽ 4adrid and literal● ′greatness.

Magnon skulls in tlle vレ orid,which one has

to suppose is quitc a boast. Sonne hcads cOme a■ ached tO Other bOdy panls in the

fornl of mumlnies. Predictably enough, there is also a fair co)llection of pottery and

other(]uanche impleinents too.The rnater― ial collles from across the island, and a nlock‐ up of the(〕 ueva Pintada of(31ldar

′ he house contains the sorts of things you'd expect:various pcrsonal cffOcts and OthCr ObieCtS in SOme Way rel■ Cd tO the author's linc, including drawings donc t。 accornpany his Eρ fsOI′ Os'Viα ιJO″ α′ ′s and I｀

￨ゴ

photos of actors who perfol■ rled his stage picccs.´ hc house is at Calle de Cano 6,and I｀

opens Monday to Friday lヒ on1 9 aFn t0 1 pnl and 4 to 8 prn.Adrnission is lrec.

has been set llp to conllpensate for the fact that the real thing is closed.

The museum,at Ca‖ c dcl Doctor Chi1 25, is open Monday to Friday■om 10 am to 5

pnl;Saturday from 10 am to l pm and

Parque de San Tleimo.The chapel of the same narne was one ofthe■ rst churclles in the nascenttown.Apart iom■ he bums,the

Sunday l[om 10 ain to 2 pnl.Adnlission

other noteworthy featurc is the restorcd rnodernist kiosk in the north‐ 、 vcstcrn

costs 400 ptas.

cornen

Centro Canario de Ane Moderno Thc

Pueblo(Canario&Musoo N6stor

ciり 'S

main muSeum Of mOdem an is basi_ cally a lloldingi centre fOr tenlporary

I])csigncd by thc artist N`stor Martin Fcr‐ nandez de la´ 11。 rTe and built by his brother

exhibits.There's usually something inter‐

Miguel,the Pueblo(1)anario fol■ ris a focal pointin the gardens ofthe Parque I)oramas. With a restaurant, terraces, shops and a

esting On shOvピ .´I'he centre opens′ ruesday

tO Stturday iOm 10 am t。 9 pm(Sunday 彙om 10am to 2 pm)and admission is frce. Gabinete Literario'This sumptuous onc‐ time theatre has lbeen declared a national

kiddies'play arca,it is designed as a pleas_ ant bit of escapisnl in a clcarly (〕 anarian architcctural styie.

・

I｀

he rnuscO is an an‐

gallcry dcdicatcd tO

rnonumncnt. It is an old‐ worid display of

thc works of N6stor,who died in 1938. It

faded elegance, 11lurnilled by chandeliers and lined with bookcases crarllined with learned_l。 。king v。 lurnes.′ I'he place nunc_ tions now as a lkind of wcll‐ to‐ do club,but

was inaugurated in 1956 and expanded in

lesser mo■ als can eat outside on Plazoleta dc Cairasco.

houses period furniturc and othcr rilcnlora‐ bilia.・ 「 he gallcry opens´ Fucsday to Friday

1987 to accorninodate a broader collection

of works― the Ganery of Contemporary Canarian Art(rooms ll to 13).It also

,om 10 am to l pm and 4to 8 pm;Sunday

Caile MayOr de Triana Traditionally,Calle

Mayor de Triana was the inain shopping

ptas. 'om ll

am to 2 pm.Admission costs 150

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria―

Casino&Ciudad Jardin lf you rernembercd tO bring along your

Casino&Ciudad Jardin 127

C-81l road or an Utinsa bus for Tanra),the botanical garden is in the protected park

black tic evcning wear anci want tO have a nuier in style,head forthc Casino de Las

arca of Monte Lentiscal, and contains a

Pa:rnas,hOuscd in the city's prestige Hotel

anlplcs of which are On thc verge Of

Santa Catalina,which was built in 1904 in the hcart Ofthe Parquc I)。 ranlas.・ The casino

extinction.Among the exhibits is a surpris‐ ing variety Of cacti. It Opens daily except public holidays iom 9 aln to 6 pin.Adinis‐

broad range ofヽ 4acronesian■ ora,Inany ex‐

opens nightly at 8 prn and closcs between 4 and 5 anl. Thc park is theお cus ofal area Ofthc city laid out by the IBritish towards the end of

Activities

the 19th century and knOwn as Ciudad

suring Playa dc las cantcras is not the

Jardin. 13ritish busincsslncn at the timc

、 vorid's greatest surf beach,but yOu can pick up some goOd 、 vaves and plenty Of

dOnlinated the econonlic life ofLas Palinas, and it appears that yOu can take the British out of]Britain, but not iBritain Out Of the British― this is not the only`Garden City' thcy lnanaged to lnap out in a fbreign city

sion is ficc.

locallads are outthere On the weekend.It is

one ofthe be■ er beaches On the isiand.

Diving Buceo Canarias(●

928290505),

(in Egypt,Cairo's Garden City is nOw a

Calie dc Victor Hugo 24,organises courses

pOSh embaSSy diStriCt)・ That Said,thiS leafシ

at rnost levcls and sells diving gcar.

upper― class`suburb'is a rather Odd nlix Of

architectural stylcs, ranging i[Onl British colonial to AndalucFan.

San● Calh‖ na Piaya de ias Canteras The 3km stretch of golden sandy beach herc is the main at_

Language Courses

´ 「 here are a dOzen Or s。

language schO。

ls in

Las Palmas,whcre you could tryお r work teaching or enrOl fOr Spanish classes―

traction, and has nlade of the Santa

check thc■ iellow Pages. Inlingua(● 928372707)is a Cane de Francisco (〕 ouri6 67. Another onc is the

Catalina part OftOWn thC CIty'S main tOuriSt

Gran Canaria Schoo1 0f Languages(● 928

drawcard.The area fhirly hums with the

267971:fax 928 27 89 80),at Calle del

activity of bars,restaurants,nightclubs and

Doctor Grau Bassans 27.

shops. This is by far the nicest beach,so there is little nccd to use the little Piaya de las A:‐

caravaneras,in the po■ area,Or Piaya de

Speciai Evenls Fiestas Although overshado、 ved by its more fanlous vcrsion in Santa([)ruz de

la Lala,south ofthc city in a prctty grim,

´ enerife, carnaval is nevertheless a big

ball・ en

event in Las Palrnas.´「 wo weeks ofinad‐

and partly industrial setting.

Castillo de ia Luz Builtin the 16th century (like mOSt Other SuCh fOrtreSSeS arOund the

canary lslands)to ward or pirate atacks, the ο αsr′ ′ ′ ο is now used 10r OccasiOnal an exllibitions.It is other、 ′ ise ciOsed. Othcr lo■ s around town include thc dil‐

r｀

ness and fancy dress mark thc irst mpture with winterin February(the dttcs move de‐ pending on when Lent falis)一 not that winter out here is any great trial!1｀ he bulk ofthe action takes place arOund Parque de Santa Catalina. June is dedicatcd to celcbrating thc Fiesta

apidated hLllk Of tllC (〕 aStil10 de San Francisco high up aboveヽ 4egueta,and Cast‐

de San Juan,patron saint Of the city.Cul‐ tural aCtiVitieS ae Staged aCЮ SS the Ciけ

il!o de San Crist6balto the south ofthe city.

and big ireworks displays and concell,s

Jardin Bot“inico Canario Viera y C:avijo About 6km south‐ west of the city(take the

take place on Playa de las Canteras. Corpus Christi,anOthcr feast with inOve‐

able dates that takcs place around Junc,is

,

く一 αくＺくＯ ＺくにＯ ШＯ くＪ∽¨

128 Las Palinas de Gran Canaria―

Plain Salll■

Places to Stay

9

in the 1880s,'when Pu●■o de:a Luz was develop:ng las_a port,廿

1(D passenger and mer‐

oasons,to moorsome、 ″ay 17● nl the h OattFid SalS up docks.As a ttsun of hi3,a10Ca:Vanety d 3huttb bOat,equip"d p b pЮ wthese boaヽ measu“ d no more han 7m, b13m hbh,ms devebped.From「 Ю and hey were scЮ n doing a blsk t口 劇oね 口γing peop:e and goods,『 om ship bthore. Like any business,these l絶 僣 o bOlos knew both busy and s:ack」 mes:du‖ ,X,the:a"er せ、 eir captains and αews o:● anised rogalas in the pЮ rt ai3a.An idea born to ease the ト bO腱 dOm Ofempけ daぃ Sming On the dOCk3 SiOwサ tranSfOrrned卜 dfi咸 O a regular∞ ロ pd‖ on」 Юse t“ dition has been maintained to the presett daメ Eight∝ )ndせ ol"cunous cmi Юmain todayFand hey贅狙uiar,gather br an aneⅢ noont radng on Satu:day(usu」 :yiom 5,m)ard Sunday(noon)脅 om Ap● :to Odober H」 byemb12"op:e,and each"饉 膊pttm“ ba面 o ofLas Pa:mas. They a膊 Apan mm “ the odd a"“ ranoo of he"面 dpating ves"L the ra∝ 建 ris a ltte障 cunar in that the∞ mpet■ Ors ra∞ On:yo`,b酬 1舶 ,against he ttnd,butin such a way as b getthe maximum p側 にrhml.The ttd that he preva‖ ing wind.:s prew much he same in the oomptttion monhs o「 he eag ocast ofGran Canana makes itheidealspOt PhF お rhe"raCeS― hey aE neVer heid anyWhem ei30in heiSh:」 S.The bOteS Sh威 de:a Lala,a fbw idome"es souh cRhe southem suburbs of Las Paimas,and inbh“ o「 chant ships which used it were ob::ged,lor va"ousい

Playa de A:caravaneras.

nlarked in particular by the laying out ofex‐

traOrdinary■ oral `carpets'in some of the central streets ofthe old city.

Arnong■ lo oldest religious festivals in Las Palmas is me´ ο″ ″ or pilgrimage/ prOcession in honour of `″ the Virgen dc la Luz, held in ([)ctobct Most of thc action takcs place around Playa dc las(〕 anteras and in La lsieta.The ba■ le with the pirate Sir Francis I)rake is cominclnorated at the

he pick ofthe crop,in Vegueta&Triana・ 「

a rainshackle sOn Of way,has to be」 οた′ ■イαグレ′ (‐ 928 36 06 64), Plazoleta de `′ Cairasco 4, 」lt by he Gabinete Literario. singles/dOubles with Only a basin sm at ´ 3500/5500 ptas. rhosc with shower are 4500/6500 ptas and full bathroom 5500/ 7500 ptas.Sorne of those without batll or shower are in one respect beter― they are likely to have a balcony looking over the

sallle time.

square. A less appetising but pcrincctly acceptable

Festivais Las Palinas hosts a range of in‐ tenlational fcstivals including:the iFestival

altemative is the P`′

lntemκ lonal de Misica(January);Festival de Opera(February― March);Festival de

roolns without bath fbr 2000/3000 ptas.

Ba‖ et y Dar堕 (May);and the Muestra ln‐

temaCiOnal de Cine(an intemaiOnal ilm festival held every● vo years in October‐

November).

In P`′ ,s′ EsPa力 α and Pa″ si`″ ιノ″α along Calle`″ de Do:ningo J NavalTo,you'11 ,

probably wake up feeling life has vol■

lited

´ on you. 「 hey charge 2000/3000 ptas but should be a last resort.

Piaces to Stay― budget

Santa Catalina′ he bulk ofthe clientelc at P′ α:α (● 928265212)seems to `″ have lobbed on the latest container ship. Stin,it's OK and there's usua‖ y a room I｀

The bulk of the accominodation of all classcs is up in the area around Santa Catalina beach and the po■

P`″ げο(● 92837 ,s」 1387),Ca‖ edePedroj。 `″1,which has simple

.

P′ ″s′

DAMIEN SIMONlS

:sia de Lan2arOte Topi Sailing boat,Playa B:anca

Bottom Lefti Playa del Papagayo Bottom Right:At:sloし de Hilano the volcanic heatis 1000C just centimetres below the surFace

(E)actus in the garden of Fundaci6n Cesar Man

que,Taho de Tlahiche,isla de Lanzarote

going. Singles/doubles go for 2600/3200 p● s and have thcir own bathroom. Pa″ s′ P′ f″ ε (1● 928 46

(●

928265100),Cane de Luis MoЮ

te 69,

whcrc two peoplc are chargcd 7500,ぉ おr

77 04),

`sα (1)alle de`″ la Princesa〈 [luayannina 2,offers

an apa“ ment with iounge,rninibar,bath― roonl and balcony.

basic roorns with loo■ )r2000/3000 1ptas.

〃οsrα ノRoたセ″ε″ M″ ο″ たα (●

92826

2878),Cane de Ripoche 22,ls right in the heart of Santa(Claセ 1lina,but pcrhaps a little

Places to Stay― top end

月【 οた′Sα ″rα Cα ′ ′ α′ ″α (■ 928243040), Parquc Doramas 3,is r力 ′addrcss in Las

t00 muCh SO fOr SOmC aS it Can bC pretけ noisy.Singlcs/doubles/triples go for 2500/ 3500/5000 ptas.The rooins are spatl:an but

Palinas.It exudes the class of another cra,

at lcast they're cheap.

your life savings, you can always thrOw

Л【 οた′7b"α aα bα (● 928220792)has double roorns with own shower and tOilet ´ for 3500 ptas. 「 hcrc is no reduction for singlc occupancy. И′α′′ α″′″ゎs ια Gο たた (雷 9283809 78), Paseo de las(Canteras 58, is nothing

and ifthe 17,400/21,750 ptas price tag for singles/doubles doesn't sufnciently dent away rnore at the casino.

Piaces to Eat

Vegueta&1・ riana A good li■ le

placc for brcakfast is Lα Brrο ι 力 `, on thedecomer of Calle Mayor de T｀ riana and(3alle Loscro.

nash but right on the beach and fairly

A ham● nd― cheese croissmt,oran"juice

cheap.Apartinents for ivo cost 5000 p●

and cogbe will cost about 700 ptas.

s.

Piaces to Stay― :niddie

Vegueta&Triana´「 here

really is nOt a 10t

in this area, so if you are adainant on

staying ncar the old ccntrc and want a little

luxury, abOut yOur Only OptiOn is rr。 ′ θ′ Pα ぁ 928368000),Parque de San 7″ ′ Ilelmo`(● s/n,where you wili be charged 7200/

Rθ s′α″ ″ α″′ a Cα sα ル ″′ ι∫d′ οσα,Ca‖ e de Montesdeoca 10, is set`οin an cxquisitely nlaintained 1 6th‐ century house in(〕 anarian C。 10nial Style.The patiO(inteinal COurt‐

yard)is cool and relaxing. Mains cost bc“ ccn 1500 ptas and 2000 ptas(the ish iS deliCiOuSIy l針 eSh).

10,400 ptas.

Another good but expensive establish‐ ment is the popular R′ srα ″α″′ ′И′ ″αゴ ″′ “ mains stan Cane dc P6rez Gald6s 2,where

San“i Cata:ina&Pue戯 o Moving up the

at about 2000 ptas.

line a tad l針 onl the cheapics is thc〃 ο ′

Ifyoujust want a simple,wholesOme b unexciting sct menu, you could do a lot

,

0夕″′′ α('928261720),Canc del Doctor`ι Grau Bassas l,which ottbrs perfectly rca― sonable if dull singles/doubles with O、 vn bath and loo for 4600/5500 ptas.

worse than sit on Plazoleta de Cairasco and e■ atthe Cら ″ Mα ″ ″.The set price meal

comes to 950 ptas.

At this ievel,you nlay prefer tol consider

an apartment.И ρα′′ α″ ′ OSル ″″ο″α′

Santa Ca"llina&Puerto For quick food,

(●

Pα ″Sケ

`″ 928271208),Cane del Doctor`α Grau

13assas 38,has lunctional ones at 5500 1ptas

for two.Bcttcr are the И′α″′ α″ι″わS Cara′ ′ ″α′α″た('928264120),Cane

de

&β ″ ο′and 7υ ′ ι ″ZZα ■ PaSCO de “ are ine for bocadillos and las Cantera 38 pizza.R“ ″″′α″た Pο ″ゎ ′gο ,Calle dcl Gencni Vivcs 90(the main entmnce is On

Tlornis Miller 67,、 vhich cost 6200 ptas for

Parque de Santa Catalina)putS On Very

two

good cuisine frorn Galicia,in Spain's■ olth―

И′α″′ α″ι″′ οs Sο ′Cα ″た′αs(● 9282665 58),Cane de Sagasta 76,is another step up in quality and costs 6000 pt`遷 ,or 7000 ptas with ocean views.The 1000 ptas extra is a

wo■ hwhilc investment.Also right on the bcach arc И′α′rα ″′″ゎsP′ αッα Dο ″ααα

west. It specialises in OctOpus and Other seafood,、vashed dO、 v:l with a crisp C〕 alleg。 Ribeiro white. R`srα ″″ α″た E′ Cο ′ ο,Calle

de Al■ cdo

Caldcr6n 21,is a pronlising li■ le Lebanese

joint.Not far away,Casα

Rら 2.′ ′ ,Ca‖ c de

一 奪〓需ヽ■一

Las Palinas de(〕 ran Canaria― Placesto Stay 129

130 Las Palmas dc Gran Canaria― Entc

ainlment

uis Antunez 25, represents a return to more traditional !ocal cooking, and is popular with Canariones. Mains start at I:′

around 1000 ptas. ■イas`″ ια C″αα″α, Callc del General

Cafos ln Vegueta,the caμ

′ R′ α ,cane

del

Doctor(〕 hi1 2 1,is an elegant place for a cup Ofcoffiee,ap6ritif or even a bOcadill。 .

Entedainlmlent

Mas dc(3amindc 32, has an excellent set

For all tllc latcst information on v′

menll for 1400 ptas.

whcrc,and cvcrything■ om ba・ s to“ stau‐

For good iBasque cooking you can't go past the c′ ″″οラ タscο Иra″P′ И′ α′ ,calle de

Men6ndez y Pelayo 10.´「 his prized cuisine

hat's on

rants and bus timctablcs,pick up a copy of the WeCkly Zα G″ ″ (100 ptaS).

rarely coines cheap,so you'li be looking at up to 3000 ptas a head. Another expensive place with a ine rep‐

Theatre The Teatro P6rez Gald6s(●

utation is И″ ′ カン′ノ ン″,Callc dc Pi y Margall

used for ntusic rccitals.

10, where rnains corne in at about 2000

928

361509),Calle de Lentini lt iS the scene of soinc dramatic an but as onen as not is ´ he other rnainstrcam thcatre, .Teatro I・

ptas.

Guiniguada(● 928380986),is at Calle de

Miore modest is the Rθ s′α″rα ″′ ο〃′″― ″′″οs Rο gθ ′ ′ ο,Calle de Valencia 4,、 ′ hcre

la ヽ 4esa de Le6n s/n, and gets the lion's share of the better quality productions,be they ciassics or rnore modern pieces.IfyOu arc into rnore alternative or avant garde stur,scvcral small thcatres cater to this_ wach thc 10cal p“ ss.

you can dine on healty inainstrearn Spanish

and(1)anarian food for about 1500 ptas a person.

Those with a hankcring fbr thc British lsies can gather at′ 'α ′ζP′ αε′, Calle de alileo 9.At least there isn't a big sign out

Classical Music&Opera The brand new

saying`Real English Breakfast'. PaS′ α R`α ιCalle del SeCretariO Padilla 28, is not so nluch an ltalian eatery as a

Auditorio Alfiedo lKraus. designed by the catalan architcct 6scar Tusquets,is‐ what one French expert described as `a boat of

haven for vegetarians.′ he food is good and inventive,and nlains cost around 1000:ptas.

air,sca and light'.([)onstructed partly ofvol‐

For Japancsc food you could do vvorsc than the unassuming F″ ″,Cane de Feman‐ ´ do Guanainlerne 56. Ilernpura and other

af1lording thc spcctators(up to 1700)broad ocean views, it is the dominant fcature of

(:〕

I｀

mains cost 900 to 1000 ptas. ■イ ιs`″ Cο ″dα グ , Calle de Fe:Teras 22, se:ves up a mix of Ga‖ ego food(concen‐ lο

trating On ShCll■

Sh),Canarian and mOre

rnainstrcarll Spanish dishes. (〕

ount on

spcnding thc bcst part of 2000 ptas. lfit's a fatsteak yOu'rc aiRler,head for thc

Argentinian E′ Pα ″′α G′ ″′ , Ca‖ e de Cololnbia 6. ′ Ciα sα Pα ら ο,Calle dc Tomas Miller 73,

canic rock and with a hugc window the southern end ofI)laya de las Canteras.

Conccrts arc also sometimes pcrforincd in the Tlcatro P6rez Gald6s.

Cinema Thcre arc thrcc″ ″′ ′ ′ ι′ ″

`s com‐ plexesin Las Palmas.1｀ he chances ofsccing undubbed versions of foreign nlovies are slight. Multicines IRoyal, Calle de l_.e6ny Castillo 85,is central and as good as any of thcnl.

´ I｀

he orlly rcal chance ofsecing classics in

uesday night session(9 prn;300 ptas)of the Filrnoteca, hcld at the・ Tieatro(〕 uiniguada.

has Spanish nlains for about 1000 1ptas.lt is a highly popular little spot oozing atrnos‐ phere. For a walk on thc castcrn iEuropcan sidc,

the original language is at the´

― gα ″ hcad brthe bcachside R`s′ α″″″た B″ ′ ′ α,Paseo de las Canteras 48.I「 Iere you can wash down thc simple food with sorne Sli―

Fc)lk Music You can bc almost guaranteed of seeing perforrrlances of(3anarian folk

wowitz!

an‐ cnl。

:1lusic in thc Pucbl。

I｀

(canariO on′ rhursday

。n and sunday morning.()n occa_

Las Palrnas de Gran Canaria― Spectator Sport 131

sion, folk groups stagc concelts in the Parquc I)。 ranlas.1｀ he tourist ofnccs should be able to tcll you ofany upcOrning events.

httgout,althoutt it stats up atthe uncom‐ ■lonly early hour of 10.30 prn.

Pcqueia Habana,(Elallc de Fernando ([〕

uanall:erne 45, is a cool salsa bar open

Other Live Music The Auditorio Al■ edo

unti1 3.30 am. I)rinks are an equally co。

Kraus is used for quite a few big‐

800 ptas― no wonder the locals need the dancing to 10osen up!

narne con‐

certs.C)thenvise,in summer iOts Of events are staged on Piaya de las Canteras.1｀ ickets

1

are often available at the cOne lng16s de_

laorni,(I〕 alle dc Porttiga1 79,opens at ll pnl and thuinps on well into thc、 vcc hours

panirnent stOre.

with a lgood mix Of Spanish and intenla‐

Bars,Pubs&￢errazas

1ヽ

tional rnusic.

There is no shOn_

Donde L6pez,Calle de Galileo 9,doesn't

age of watering holes in Las Palmas,

get going until an‐ er rnidnight.It's a slight_

cspecially in Santa Catalina and arOund Playa de las Canteras. lJsing Plaza de

atinosphere if it doesn't■ 1l up tOO much.

Espaia as a rcfcrcnce pOint, yOu'11 1lnd plcnty ofactiviサ 彙Om lam On. ・he Vegucta arca also gets busy at this time,althou」 i fOr SOme taSteS it'S alimct。 。 rowdy to bc fun.A rnorc sedate and posey area are the bars around the Muelle Dc‐ ponivo(thiS iS yaChtie tCritOw a■ er an). I｀

Vegυ eta g=属 ′ a′ Pa Bar Esquina de 10s SO― brinos,Calle dc MontesdeOca 3,is a great old placc with huge hams dangling iom the ceiling.

La CaVa,Calle del Primero de Mayo 57, is easy to iniss,and has a rather cOnspiratO_ rial air abOut it.It Stays open until about 3

ly louche little place but has a great Discoteca Kapital,Cane de Luis Morotc 51,is a prew standard disco and attracts a varied crowd,sonlc of it deinitely ofF thc boats.Babel,Calle de Luis Morote 49,fhlls into much the sarne category.

MogalTlbo, Calle dc Montevideo 5 and Pick Up,next door at No 3,are both good dance places that dOn't bOther Opening bcfore lnidnight. The fOrmer attracts a youngeち 11larginally wilder set,whilc thc mu,ic in the la“ er isね irly mains"eam stur. Area,Cane dei SecretariO Artilcs 48,is a disco that plays mainly Spanish pOp inusic and opens Thursday tO Saturday Only.

Spec● tor Sport

arn.

Footbali｀ ou'1l see no First I)ivision foot‐ 1【

Santa Cara′ ′ and Geiser

el"o Persepolis,E15

a・e"a8PI“ thrcc popular

terra″ s(side―

ball(soccer)in Las Palmas,butifyou want to the see the local sides play,hcad for the

walk ca“ /bas)at Plaza dc Espaia 5.They are a goOd place to kick the evening's fun

Estadio lnsular on Cane de Pio XH.

ofF.

Things to Buy

If you're in need Of aく uinness or just feel like being in a sipOt Of ainlost lrish ter‐

〕 BIclore buying handicranis and other sou_ venirs,hcad first to the Fedac(Fundaci6n

ritory,Shechan's is the placc fOr you.It's at

para la Etnograia y eliDesarollo de la Arte―

:〕

Calle de los Martincz de Escobar 8.

Sania Canaria)shop a Calle de Domingo J Navarro 7.・ rhis is a govetTlrrlent‐ cOntr011ed

Late‐ Night Bars&lDiscos The late― night bars and discos are fOund mOstly in thc

StOre Where priCeS and qualiサ are a g00d

Santa Catalina‐ beach‐ Pueno de la Luz area.

DOn't eXpeCt tO pay less than 500 ptas a

products sold elsewhere. For more conventional acquisitions,the

drink,whatever it is.

traditional shopper's street has fOr centurics

La Cane,Cane del sargento Llagas 35,is a hip place that Opens its doors at midnight. Gas,Cane dc Pascal l,is anOthcr late‐ night

standard by which tO Ineasure thosc of

becn Callc Mayor de Triana.The strcct is nowadays more inte“ sting britsjumble of nlodernist architecture than its stores.

132 Las Pahnas de Gran Canaria― Gening There&,Away

Las Palmas'seliproinoted chic shop‐ pers'hangoutis Avenida dc Mesa y]し 6pez. Here you'11■ nd a gigantic Corte lng16s and a host ofother shops and l)。

utiques.1ヽ Jearby,

Indians have moved in to many ofthe shops

around Parquc de Santa Catalina to sell Cheap CleCtrOniC g00dS(Or SCll CICCtrOniC

goods cheaply,depending On hOw yOu view theSe thingS).

Bus The Estaci6n de Cuaguas(● 9283811 30)is hand‖ y located just or the wtteト 11・

ont near the Parque de San′ Ilelrno,itself

on the noll:h end ofthe′ 「 riana district. The green Salcai buses leave fiorn here to all dcstinations south,while the orangic and

blue Utinsa company runs buses acrOss thc north and cen"e of the isiand.The ycllow buses are local city buses only.S● ndard

E)ichard shoppers inay want to take a look around the Centro Cornercial iLas Arenas,out by the Auditorio Aliedo Kmus

one‐ way

at Calle dc Pavia 18. It's got everything ■om fashion stores to a cincma coinplcx. One bettcr並 11l is thc 120,000 sq m Cen廿 o

UtinSa;ali the OtherS With SalCal).

Coinercial La Ballena,built in thc shapc of

a whalel lt's north oftown at Caretera del

No■ e l13.

Ge

ng There&Away

Ilelde

and 305 ptas to G1ldar(thc last is with

Car&Motorcyc:e Thc GC‐ l autovia leads south past thc airport to Playa del lng16s, while thc GC‐ 2 heads westtowards G`ldar. Ifyou wantto contactthe RACE(‐

Air The Aeropucrto de Gando(●

0988お r

92823

assistance),itis a Cane de Lc6n

y Castillo 281.

9285790

00)is 16km south of Las Palmas.Binter connects thc isiand with.1lcnerifc 12 tirnes

dany(all but once

tickets to Maspalornas cost 615

ptas;to Mogin 910 ptas,175 ptas to・

Ю the Norte ai,Ort).It

hastwo nightsto La Pallna and regular con‐ nections to lLanzarote and Fuclneventura.

Renね ′There a“ Юn● 1■ mls tt thc airpo軋 jetbil terminal and scattercd across thc Santa Ca● lina district ofthe city. Sea The Weekly fery tO C`diZ(mainland

Air Europa has several scheduled niJlts a day to´ Flenerife Norte,Fuerteventura and Lanzarote,and Spanair has a night a day on

Spain)CallS in hCrC en rOutC iOm Tenerit,

wcckdays to Lanzarote.Air Atiantic has

trries ieavc a tw timcs a weck for Santa

two a weck to El Hicro.

Cruz de Tenerife. Crossing time is four

Air Europa has“ gular diに ct nights(江

least one on weckdays)to Madrid,

Barcelona, Sevillc and Santiago de Corn― postela.Connections lヒ o■ l Madrid include

Vigo, Bllbao, Malaga and Palma dc Mal― 1。 rca.spanair hぉ two dany nights iom Gran Canaria to Madrid,■ om whcrc you can inake several conncctions,including to Barcelona.

Although′ renerife is a busier interna― tional dcstination, there are plenty of

leaving at 2 p■

1.

Trasmeditcrrlnca(●

928 26 00 70)

hours and the ticket costs 2700 ptas.Most

people use the jctfoils,which leave ive timeS a day(thriCe On Sunday)and take One

hour and 20 minutes― the standard fare is 5600 ptas(3200 ptas off‐ peak). Conling ・ ′ ο″

Santa CruZ,SOme Of thC jCtお

1lS

proceed to Morro Jable in Fuetteventura,

another l%hours.From Las Palmasthe fare is 5600 ptas.

If you prefer the ferry,Naviera Armas

cha■ ers and many schedulcd international

928474080)hastwoた rriesiMonday to Friday and oneeachon Saturday and Sunday

nights to Gran Canaria.

to Santa(〕 ruz.´ rickets cost 2700 ptas.

Ai the airpol"you'Il ind a tourist inlor‐ mation ofncc on thc,・。und o。 。r(it doesn't

Thrcc rasincditcrranea fcrrics serve Puerto dcl Rosario(Fuerteventura)each

haVe muCh inお nnaiOn thOu鰤 ),Cafental outlets,a post ofnce and l.。 ney_changing faCilitieS(inCluding a WeStenl UniOn repre―

week(eight hours;3500 ptas)and then Ar‐ recit in LanzaЮ te(10 hours;3500 ptas).A direct ferl電/to Arrccifc on Wcdncsday takes

SentatiVe).

seven hours and costs the sarnc.

(●

´ F・

Around the lsland― Cental Circuit 133

Naviera Annas hastwo t

es a weck to

Puerto del Rosario(Fue eventura; 3500 ptas)and three to Arecife(Lanzaote;3500 ptas).A daily ferlγ also plies the Morro Jable Юute(Fueneventura)in■ rec hours.

′ ickcts cost 3100 ptas and the departure I｀

time is 7.15 am.

Municipal(● 928277645).It's open 24 hours a day and it costs 6000 ptas to get your chariot out ofthe pound. Tlaxi lfyou need to call a taxi try■ ,92846

0000,928 46 56 66 or 928 46 22 12.ヽ rou can inag thenl d。 、 vn or pick one up at one of

34 taxi stands across the city.

Ge"ing Around ￢o′ Frorn theAirport Salcai buses nln ioln the airpott to Las Palinas every half hour lヒ

Around the island

on1 6.30 am to 9 pnl,and then hourly until

2 ain.From Las Palmas the irst depanure ´ is at 6 anl. rhe fare is 230 ptas.A taxi

Bus Guaguas Miunicipales runs thc yellow buses`round iLas Palmas and its suburbs. ｀ Y`ou buy single tickets(1251)tas)on the bus.

With your o、vn transport,you could get a reasonablc look at thc entire isiand in絆 o dayS(yOu Cm driVe aOund itin One day,but yOu would be hard ipressed to do this and cxplore the centre of e isiand as wen). Buses connect rnost towns and villages,but you ν ll use up more tirne this way.Cyclists

between the airport and centtal Las Palinas is likcly to cost you about 3000 ptas.

lf you plan to hang around lLas Palinas lor

not averse to sol■ le tough inclines cal■

any lcngth of ti:ne, you should consider either the Bono‐ Guagua ticket(10 trips for

around too.

745 ptas)orthc Tajeta Mensual de Bono‐

CENTRAL CiRCulT

Facil,good for a month's unlilTlited travel.

Sta“ ing iヒ om Las Palrnas,a fairly ObviOus CirCuit preSentS itSelt heading irSt South

These can be“ u』 ttt he Guagms Mu‐ nicipales desk at the Estaci6n dc Guaguas. A useFul service is the red lillo No l,

and then curting iniand tO take in the rnOun‐

which runs iom the Tcatro P6rez Gald6s

no■ h― eastwards back towards the capital.

and along Calle de Rafaci Cabrera in the ´

rriana district up Calle de Lc6n y Clastillo to Puerto dc la Luz and on to Castillo dc la Luz.The salmle bus will also drop you atthe

nOnhenl end Of Playa de las canteras.′ 「 he red line No 17 starts fiom the saine spot and

will get you out to the Auditorio Aliedo Kraus(although retum services dry up too soon to make it back■ olm most perfor‐

get

tainOus ・rejeda regiOn befOre s、 ′ inging

Tieide

」 α′ ο″7zイ θθ ・ ρο″′ l′

The isiand's second city,・ Ileldc of〕 Fers the visitor precious litle joy and inay easily be skipped with no loss.´「 he 12knt trip south

■om Las Palmas passesthrough a disheat‐

ening scenc Ofarid and semi‐ induslrialised

landscape that does littlc to evokc thc

manCeS).

irnagcs of subtropical island paradisc.

Car&Motorcycie Driving(and paking)

head for the Sall Juan area,whicll consti― tutes the heart of the old town.′ Ilelde was

IfyOu do takc the trOuble to stop in′

in Las Palinas is a pain.It's not really any

riclde,

worsc than many mainiand Spanish cities, but rush hour traficjams are nmstrating,as

おundedろ 4/b″ the SpaniSh COnqueSt by

is the sornetiines misieading one―

way street systcm.IMlost of thc cenぼ e operates meter―

bishopric in thc Folttinate lsles.

parking(205 ptas fortwo hours maximum). parks, whcre you pay up to 200 ptas an

string instrurnents,above all the tinlple,the islands'musical crnblern. The tourist oficc(■ 928683144),is on

houn lf you get towcd, call the lDep6sito

cane de Juan carlos I,just offPlaza de san

C)therη ′ ise there are sevcral privatc car

nlonks lronl Mallorca sceking to set up a Thc city is known for its production of

134 Around the lsland―

(3entral Circuit

Juan.Anlong the well_aged noble houses Of

of the isiand lics b′ ぉνι′″ ingenio and

the area,thc 15th‐ centu■/igiesia de lSan Juan stands wc‖ Out.YOu enter by a gothic‐

Agtimes.Thc BalTancO dc Guayadcque

mud6jardoorway,which was inished in the

jestic sweep Of crumpled ridges, its

1 6tll century.Inside,the oddest ofthe artistic

ciose‐

jewels is a 5kg ngure of Christ made in Mexico ofa coril― based plaster

riscs up into central Gran Canaria in a rna_

cropped vegetatiOn sOttening the

otherⅥ ′ ise arid teln・ ain with a little green.

Most curiously, about halfway a10ng the

A shon walk away isthe Museo Le6n y Casti‖ o,devOted tO the family ofthe same

name and in patticular a late 19th_ccntury

9km road iom Agtimes(there is another rOadうrOm lngeniO tOO),yOu'11■ nd an Odd relic of bygonc ages― a trOgiodyte hamlet.

politician― you'1l want tO be a serious Spanish history bufFto get nluch Out Ofthis.

Sornc ofthe handful ofinhabitants here live in clcverly deckcd‐ out caves. Allotller 4kin and the rOad pcters out in

20 minutes'om 7am(175 ptas),so there's

an impaSSablC(br VehiCICS)traCk and a

no need to stay,and iprecious few places to

couple ofrestaurants.101fthese,R`s′ α′″ α″′ θ

Salcai buses■ .om Las Palinas run cvcry

r is recommended and modestly

7ン gο ′ ο

stay in.

ingenio&Ag

mes

A shodi bus ride south of´ tO the toν Vns

priced.

clde brings yOu oflngenio and Agtimes,scpa‐ Iキ

￢emisas lf yく )u have a vchicle,yOu can take a back

ratcd lLorn onc another by the lBarranco de

road lrom Agilirnes heading fOr Santa Lucfa

Guayadequc and in themselves ofli■

de Tirttana.The C‐815 highway also hcads

le in‐

terest.()f the two the lattcr boasts a

thiS Way(and SalCai buSeS traVelthiS route),

inarginally nlOre attractive tOwn centre,the centrepiece of which is the shady Plaza del ltosario,scaled ofFat one end by the lglesia

but the back road takes yOu thrOugh rnore rugged country and the sieepy village Of llentisas.It's nOt that the place is full ofriv_

de lsan lsebastian,considcrcd one of the

eting monurnents, but thc settingi is

best exanlplcs ofCanarian neoclassicisnl.If

impressive,with a backdrop of impenetra―

you'rc here in the evening,yOu may wantto vlsit one of the three bars On the sanlc

ble cliЯ も.

square.

What does rnake Agtimes special is the ´

Encuentro 「 eatral .Tres(E)ontinentes, an

annual(September)attenlpt to bring to‐ gCther thCatre cornpanics florn Europe, South America and A■ ica.This theatrc

bonanza has grOwn lrom strength tO strength, turning an OtherⅥ ′ ise fairly dull place into a tenlpOrary hOtbed of intcrna‐ tional creativity.

There's nowhere much tO stay here and li■ le

entiCCment tO dO SO anyWay―

of buscs conncct thc tw{O tOwns with・

plenけ rlclde

and Las Palmas. Fronl Aguirncs, another Salcai bus hcads east to the cOast and

Arinaga― it's a pOpular iocal spot for swi:nriling,but there's no beach.

Barranco de cuayadeque

・ 「 he rcal reason for drining about this pan

And thc villagc itself has

preserved a g00d dea1 0f its 。lder stOne houses. ｀ Viery OCCaSiOnal buses connect Tleinisas

With San BanO10m6 de Tiralana and El Doctoral(the la■ er On the(〕 C-l autOvfa).

San● Lucia de Tiraiana

・ 「 his place,althOugh very prettily set around the upper reaches ofa palm‐

studdcd valley,

is sornething Ofa tOurist travesty.Someone has seen it to build a vcry cheap-loOking E)isney castle and shOved several hundrcd Guanche attefacts inside it any which way. [〕

ntry costs 300 ptas,but you nccd a healthy

scnse of the silly tO be able to wander arOund insidc this`(:〕 asti1lo de la Foltaleza'. Just bchind itis the R`srα ′ ″ α″ra月 lα ο,a well

advertised and patrOnised tour‐ bus eating stopover. If you want to eat but not cOntribute tO

this particular venture, you cOuld try the

Around thc lsland― Central CirCuit 135

οor α″′ a Casα フ 4″ ′ ο″′ Inore hurnble R`srα ″′ レαJο ″sa″ rα ι″ε″,■ the `ν wcstern“exit ofthc villagc.

in 10W SeaSOn).YOu Can dine herC tO。 ,Or江 the former Pα ′αJο r aCrOSS the rOad(nO

san BanO101Tl`de Tiralana

Playa dclingi6s at 8 am on Sundγ O″ 夕,re‐ turning at 12.30 pnl.There are ive Utinsa

Ras′ α ′ α″κ

Ю OmS).

One Salcai bus(No 18)comes up■ α′ ′ ο″2イ ,θ θθ ・ ρOlρ ″′ This is a comparatively substantial town, although with no notable sights.The views Out OVCrthe Tiraiana Valley are pleaSing and

you could choose a worse spotto gct stuck brthc ni♪ t.〃οsra′ Sa″ α″α(● 9281271

om

buses a day iom Las Palmas(via Santa Brfgida and San Mateo)to Tejeda,which stOp a cruz dc Tejeda on thc way.

Parque Arqueo16gico dei lBentayga

32), on the main street, has simple

A“ ut

singles/dOublcs without oν vn bath for 2000/ 3200 ptas.Along the saine street are several eatcries and bars.

the Roque Benlhyga(1404m),a natural

´ he road south leads straigllt into the hean Of the Playa del lng16s beach reso威 I｀

10km south ofTejedavinage rises up

landinark On the iSland(SignpOSted― yOu need yOur OWn tranSpOrt).The arChae。 10g‐ ical park has been established to provide infonnation aboutthe area's ancient histo■

/・

ArOund the Roquc itself are various rc‐

(Salcai bus No 18).

rnindcrs of the (〕 uanche presence here,

Teieda&Around

fl・

α′ 」 ο″2Jθ θ ・ ′ο ″′

orn rock inscriptions to granaries and a

sacred ritual site.Fulllher rerllinders of the

lρ

Tejeda is 33km ofwinding road away tom San 13anolom6.It is a quiet,unprepossess‐ ing hill village、 vhose inain attraction is its

・ ■.. ‐ ‐ 苺 ―

111111‐

marvellous setting.A good Place for lunch α7セ α,Calle de ′ α″′ aC'“ αゴθ′ is thc Rθ srα ″

Domingo Hernindez Guerra(near the `7ν

southem eXit iOm ЮWn).

Cruz de￢ejeda The cross in greenish stone iOm which this spot,8km nonh of Tejeda, takes its narne inarks the centre of(3ran α′ ′″οs″ ′ as(king's (Elanaria and its old ο :ノ

`α

rOadS), a10ng WhiCh it iS Still pOSSible tO cross the entire isiand.

Fronl the iOOkOutS hcrc you can con‐ tcnlplate thc isiand's greatest natural wOnders:to the west the Roquc Bentayga (and in Clear Weather the great COne OfTeide

On Tenerife); to the SOuth POZO de laS

est point)and the Nieves(the isiand's hi」 、 odd‐ looking

Roquc Nublo(which as otten

as nOttruly iS enVe10ped in a Wad OfClOud); and dropping a、 vay to the nollth‐ cast the

plains of San Mateo.

,14ou can also buy souvenirs and ride donkeys ifyou feelthe urge. a′ E′ Rψ gわ (● 928666513;趣 肋 ′

928666520)has singics/doubles fbr 8000/ 10,000 ptas in high scason(6800/8800 ptas

CruZ de Teleda

136 ArOund the lsiand―

The North

Guanches arc sca■ lered about the park arca,

hadly any nccd,with Las Palmas just a

and stafFat the Centto de lnterprctaci6n can

15km busridc away),theκ

help With hiking SuggCStiOnS(althOugh a

less pensi6n('928356337)at Cane Rcal

serious guideb00k On walking on thc isiand might be mOrC rCliable).The CCntre itSelf has a display exPlaining something Of the

de Coello 34. Siinple doubles cost 2500

preCOnquest histoty ofthe a・ ca(entry is 250

restaurants in thc area are all out of town.

p●S,if hC CCntre iS OpCn that iS!).

Rθs′α′′ α″た Mο ″た

P020 de:aS Nleves Those with their own

Mains here cost iom 1300 ptas.Loads of

Wlleeis can drive the 15krn east to this,the

Utinsa buses ply this route to Las Palinas.

is a smali namc‐

ptas.

If you have your own transpOrt,the best ,を 4αθ ,On the road to Vcga de San Mateo,is in a nice 10cation.

highest peak on the isiand(19491n).Follow thc signs for Los Pechos and keep an cyc on

THE NORTH

the military cornnlunicatiOns pOst, which

As is the case on nlost of the isiands,the

Sits atop tte rise.Thc views are brcatttak‐

rain‐ blessed fcttile no■ h of Gran Canaria prcscnts a radically di∬ ercnt picture■ the largely griFn interiOr and SOuth Of the isiand.Rolling hilis,intensively tilled nelds

ing on a clear day. I)ircctly 、 vcst is the

distinctivc Roque Nublo(1803m).

Vbga de San Mateo DescendingiOmthebalTen,chilly heightsOf

om

and terraces, and inyriad villages and hamlets inake up a busy and interesting ′ isting roads, nCgOtiating らα″ ′ α″οοS (raVineS)and an

Tejeda,the scene arOund you quickly trans‐ おrmS itSel■ The plain(ッ′gα )ofSan Mateois a sea ofgreen.As with rnost ofthc no111hern

picture as lyou wind along t、

■h― CaSt), the arCa iS buSily Cultivatcd and

the west docs the green lgivc waly to a nlore

Strip Of thC iSland(but eSpeCially thC n。

receives enough rain to lkeep 10cal fall■ lers well occupied.YOu'1l nOtice too thatthe area

isrnuchrnoredenselypOpulated―

cvcr‐ changing

tcrrain.()nly as you reach

austcrc,although no less captivating land, Scape― the west coast is the n10st drainatic on the isiand.

inostofthe

isiand's population livesin the nOnh.・ 「 herc's nOtan aヽ vfullotto San Mateo,butitinakes a

plcasant stop.Ifyou happcn tO be around in Septcmbcr,tly tO make it up fOrthe´ ο〃ι rFα (p‖ grimagC)and Celebrations of thc pttron

￢eror ・ ρ9p″ 々″jο ″ノθ ,3θ θ ln spitc ofthe namc,this place,22knl south‐

、 vestofLas Palinas,dOcsanythingbutinspire fcar.The centraI Plaza de Nucstra SeiOra dcl

saint,St Matthew,on 21 Scptemben

Pino and Calle Real have survived the

Santa Brigida

rnodenlagcrnOreOrlessintact,the latterlined with ine old houses.

AbOut 9km nurther east on the road to La口 3 Palrnas,the next to、vn lof any nOte is Santa

Brfgida,whose centre repays a wander.The

narow stК cts

are trec‐ lincd and a■ ract

e,

and florn thc parish church you havc nice views iniand over ields and palin grOvcs tO thc ccntral mOuntains. Back on the road to Las Palinas,thcre is a tum‐ ofF south aner 4km for thc Caldera

Among them is the Casa de los Pa‐ tronos,nOw serving as a muscum full ofall sorts of intriguing odds and ends,mOstly ,ol■ lthc fa:Tlilies wh0 0nce livcd herc.The

ancestors of Sim6n Bolfvar's wife, the ´ Venezuclan Maria eresa Rodrigucz del I｀

Toro,lived here at onc POint. 1)onlinating the squarc is the Basi:ica de

:a virgen de:PinO,a neoclassical edince

de Bandanna, One Of the biggest cxtinct craters on the isiand. There are superb

COmpClling dctail is the

views.Utinsa bus 311 ■om Las Palmas

carving of the enthrOncd Virgen de la

takes you close― ask for 13andanla. ShOuld yOu WanttO Stay(althOugh there'S

Nieve, illurninated in her place Of hOnOur

built in the 18th century. Insidc,the most

above the altar.

15th‐ century

≧ ■ 撃■ゞｚ 難 ■一 一 ， ，

Around the lsiand― Thelヽ Io■ h 137 ´ he Virgen is the patron ofthe island and ・「 Ferot hence, is the religious capital.「 Fhe Fiesta de la Virgen del Pino,on 6to 8 Sep‐ tember,is not only a big eventin・ Ileror― it is the inost inlpo■ ant religiOus feast day on the island's calendar.

If y()u nccd to stay, thcre is a littic

Moya

・ 「 here's prccious little to hold yOu up here, unicss you feel llkc having a look at the Casa′ Mluseo de Morales,where the Ca‐ ・ narian mOderrlist poet, Ton16s Morales, lived. It is acrOss the road fl・ om the 16th‐

century church on the main road through

pensi6n(● 928630724)at Paseo de

tou′ :1.As

Gonz`lez Dfazダ n.Doubles cost 3000 ptas. The」 ИI`s`″ ιos Par″ α″a′ 。s,calle de la Dipuね ci6n 6,has a■ 1ling“set inenu with

jandro Hidalgo,you can get a hea"y sct nleal for 725 ptas at the iイ ￨`s`″ (3α sα P″ι′ ′ο,■ No6.

steak as its ccntrepiece for 1375 ptas. It's

0,ccasional buscs link Moya with Arucas and Las Palmas.

just off the central square.Utinsa bus 216 connects every half hour or so with Arucas and Las Palmas.

you head out along(Clalle de Alc―

Sanね Marla de Gula α ο″′ ・ ′ο λ J ′′ `∂ Lying“on the main C‐ 810 r」

Arucas α″ο″2`97イ ・ ρο ρ″′

The cxtraordinary neogothic Catedral de

San Juan stands sullen watch over the bright white houses ofArucas in a striking display ofdisproportion.Inside,the retablo 後σ′″ra above thc main altar and the cI″ Isrο 】 ′ ″″gCカ ガs′ )by Manucl Ramos are ′ (R′ ε

mc most notewOnhy artwOrks.

Heading into the centre ioin the cathe‐

highway 25km

west of Las Pahnas,Santa Marfa dc Gufa was for a while hoine to the French coln‐ pOser Camille Saint― Saens(1835‐ 1921), who occasionally tickled the ivories in the town's17th‐ century neoclassical church.

In the 18th century the town and sur‐ rOunding`u℃ a was devastatcd by a plaguc of ´ locusts. 「 lo rid themseives of this blight,

town and country people got together to

dral, you soon walk into Plaza dc la

implore the Virgin Mary lor help.'This has

Constituci6n,whose rnost interesting build‐ ing is the restrained rnodenlist toゃ vn hall

rernained a tradition and on the third

(Ayun● mienO).Opposite tte the someWh誠

Sunday of Septe:nber the locals celebrate La Rarna de las Marias,in which they dance

ragged rnunicipal gardens, also known as the Jardin de las Hesp6rides.Calle de la

their way to the doors ofthe church to rnake Oflierings Of fruits Ofthe earth to Mary.The

Heredad nanksthe gadens md is dominat_

town is also boWn br itS,“ aSο ル ル ′

ed by one ofthe town's。 ldest edinces,the

(f10Wer CheeSC).

Heredad de Aguas de Arucas y Firgas, co■ lpleted in 1502.The clock、vas added in the 1 9th century.

Signs point north away,oin thc town centre to thc Miradot a lookout'om whcre

The canary lsiands'Onlyッ ο rみ 力οs′ ′′

928882728)is well out oftown“and has littlc to recommend it.Otherwise you could stay atthe equally out ofthe way」 り ′ 〃α‐ `′ ttο (● 928551655),Vega de c′ ααd′ ИЙ (●

lο

you can see lLas Painlas to the north― east and the nolllhern coast of the isiand.It'sa

`″ Anzo.R00ms cost ,ol■ 6000 ptas pcr

long walk,so ifyou have wheels,use them. ■を,sO″ 」 αルイ ο″′ ´力α d`И ′″σαs,up at

rant― but it is a pain to ind.■ iou'1l nced your ov7n wheels or a taxl. The tou′11 ls on the Las Palinas― G`ldar

`′

the lookout of tlle salne nainc, is the best restaurantin town and seerns to be aware of it.The set inenu is a li■ le pricey at 1475

ptas, but iyou can bc pretty sure of the quality.

Utinsa bus 216 connects every halfhour or so with Teror and Las Palinas.

persOn and they have a respecmble restau―

No 105 Utinsa bus route.

Galdar O′ ο p“ ′ α″ο″2o5θ θ

′

I.he reasons for corning to(]1ldar are all

closed and unlikely to open in the near

138 Around the lsiand―

The No

h

future.POSSibly the FnOSt iinpOnant arChaC― ologicalfind in thc isiands was the sO_called

Special Event if yOu :Tlanage to be in

CueVa Pintada, ncar thc Agacte exit of

Agaete around 4 August,you'1l witness the Ficsta de la Rama,whosc origins lic in an

town.Its walis bear deteriorating designs in

ObSCure (〕

red, black and white lefl behind by the

locals accornpanied by nlarching bands

([〕

´ uanches. rhe area around it, which has

yielded solTle remains Of a(]uainche sc■

le‐

lment,has been declared an archacological park― wOrk continucs at a snail's pacc on its developinent.A copy can be seen atthe Museo Canario in Las Palinas. A couple of kilornetres out Of tOwn at Playa del Aguり ero is the NecrOpo:is de

uanche rain dance. Nowadays

paradc into town brandishing tree branches and then get down to the seriOus busincss of

having a goOd time.

Places to Slay& Eat Ylou can stay at И′ ″α″′″rο s JИ ″gο s′ο('928554192), “ del()bispo Pildain ll. ´hc apa」 Paseo 「

t‐

rnents have a snlall kitchenette and 10unge

Gう ldar.Mummies,obiects used in Cuanche nuneral rites and other bits alld bobs have

room,and cost 6000 ptas fortwO.T'he only

becn discOvered in anlOng the tornbs here. ´ he area has however been fbnced ofFand a

Pガ ″οasα Gン の′ α″ ″f″ α(●

lack offtlnds tO dO anything with it nleans it

baCk rOad tO Iン OS Ben・ aZaleS,WhOSe rninCral

may we‖ stay that way. ・ here's nowhere nluch to stay here.

ties.

I｀

I｀

Utinsa bus No 105 heads cast for Las

other option in the area is the twO_star rf。 ′

928898009;fax`′

928898525),8km cast ofAgaete along the waters are reputed to havc curatiVc quali‐ 1lζ

ou have a choice of seafood rcstaurants

Palntas.N(o103 heads south for Agacte and

along the waternront of Pueito de las

Puerto de las Nieves.

Nicves.

Agaete&Puerto de las Nieves

Ge"ing There&AWay Utinsa bus No 103

α″ο″∫J,27θ ・ ρOp″ ′ ・rhere is vittually nothing to attract visitors in the main town ofAgaete,just 10km south of〈

:〕

but the ncarby IPucrto las Nieves`ldar, is a diftrent stoly.Apart iomdethe

ferry tO Santa Cruz de Tenerife and a lirnited pebbly beach,the cheery water■ ・ Ont

until thc 19th ccntuつ ′｀ Vas thc isiand's principal port is blessed 、 vith a

of iⅣ hat

series of nlodest litle seafoo(l rcstaurants.

1inkSthe town and pon with Las Palmas via

G`ldan Bus No 101 heads sOuth fOr Aldea de San Nicolas. Lineas Fred()Iscn operatcs four felTies a

day to Santa Cruz de Tenerife iOm Pue■ o de las Nieves.Tickets cOst 2700 ptas.There

iS a free buS connection to Las Palrnas (Clalle de Eduardo Benot l). Going the Other Way,the bus leaves Las Palinas l%: hours bcfore thc nel・ ry is duc to dcpart.

Just in lrorn the bcach is thc striking

iglesia de Nuestra lSenora de:a lCon‐

Aidea de San Nico:is

cepci6n.E〕 uilt in 1 874,it is quite uniquc in the iSiandS 10r itS pronounced Mediter‐ ranean style. For a moinent it fecis like you've landed in (〕 reece! Inside are two parts of a 16th‐ century Flemish triptych. ´

Also known as San Tヽ lico16s de・ 11。 lentino, this is One OfthOse places where you might

I｀

he rniddle panclis prescrved in thc nearby

Ermita de:as Nieves,a smali chapcl. Around Agaete thc coast bcginsto take on

a stcrner cOuntcnance than lurther north. Right behind the beach rises up thc Roque PanidO,knowntolocals asthe Dedo de E)i6s ((]od's Finger).This basalt rnOnolith has 、 veathcrcd the elemcnts for 100,000 years.

well arrive in the evening and need to stOp

and recharge batteries belore heading on round the isiand. Thc trcat here is travelling,nOt an,iVing. The road bct、 vecn Agaete and San Nicolas

takes you on a rnagnillccnt cliff‐ side

joumey」 f you head south― west in the late

atternoon, the setting sun befOre yOu dc‐ lights the eyes with a solt light display, Inarking out each successive ridge in an ´ ever― darker shadO、 vy mantle. hose in I｀

Around the lsland― Playa del lnglё

s&Maspalonnas 139

thcir own vehicles can stop at nurnerous

the history and iinpressive inonulmcnts―

points along tlle way to take in the ruggcd

there aren't any.

VICヽ VS.

The rather scruf取 。wn haslime to cxcite

the senses,butifyouarrive lateinthedayyou inay be relieved to discover the」 り ′ ′′Zο s C'α sσ ″Os(● 928891165),Calle de los Cas‐ lο

´ 「 hc hca■ Ofthc rcsOn is Playa dcllng:6s,

and the heart of the heart is the Yurnbo Ccntrum,a bigお ur‐ level shoppingjungle.

You could spend your entire holiday in here.By day it is akin to an Arab bazaar,

cajos 9,where decent enOugh singles/

bursting with all sorts ofgoods fiom rags to

doubles with own shower and toilet cost 3000/4500 ptas,including breakfast.The

radios. In between thenl innumerablc re■ aurants colnpcte for your attention with

sarneguyownsasmallpensi6nnearbyonthe

of thcsc go ali the way around to Las

`international'food,traditional brcakfasts olri half a dozen countries and anything else they can come up with.Here you will also ind banks,doctors,telephone and fax o10ces,a laundrette and supenTlarkets_()h, and the tourist OfiAcc is just outside the

Palinas. Utinsa bus No 101 goes to Las

centre,on the sarlle block.

Palrnas via Puell,o de las Nieves and Santa

vay to night thc scene As day givcs 、 transfbrms itself,so that by the wee small hours thc lcather handbags and、 vallets in

nlain square,where simple roorns come in at 2000/3000 ptas without breakfast.

iヒ

Salcai has four buses(No 38)a day to Playa del lng16s via Puc1lto de Mogin.Two

Maria de Guia.

Anenara

the stores have been replaced by leather un‐ derl)ants in stealny gay bars.´「 he vaguely WhOleSOine buStly family atFnOSphere CVap‐

A back road cliinbs westward up the bar‐

ranco nronl Aldca de San Nicolas to the hintop village ofArtenara,■ om where you are a shOn distance tO Tejeda.The sparsely populatcd country,made up of bare ridges and rugged hilis,is dottcd with troglodyte

orates as the discos swing until dawn,and ′ thc drag sho、 、 s,saunas and sex shOps all dO a roaring tradc.

caves,sorne of tllem still inllabitcd. When

Beyond Yumbo isthe rcst,which in many rcspccts is not unlike Yumbo.This is of

you consider that only 50knl separates you

course an anincial settleinent,andyou feelit

iom Las Palmas,the closcncss oftwo such

iinmediately― all the nice boulevards and

utterly different WOridS(let a10nC that Of Playa del inglё S!)giVeS plenty Ofお Odお r thought― at lcastお r the thoughthl.

roundabouts betraying all tlle spontaneity in towndesignofaFive｀ FearPlan.It'sallhotels,

Infrcqucnt Utinsa buscs link Anenara

apartments,rcstaurants and bars,and thcn sorne.

InMaspalomascspcciallythestrectnarnes

with Las Palmas via Teror.1ヽ lo buscs run ■om Aldca dc San NicoMs.

are revealing― Avenida del・ rburoperador

PLAMA DELiNGLES&MASPALOMAS

tOurs,1ヽ

Saga′ Ilours,Avenida del・IlouroperadorAlpi‐ Jecken.nan,´ ui,and sO On and sO On.

This is the international party end of the island.It appealsto rnany,butitwon'tappeal to all.Agoodchunk ofthe coasthas basically been converted into a giant holiday home, With drinkS・ YOu COmC hCrC fOr Sun(eSpe‐ cially ifescaping the European winter)and noctumal iュ n。 ()f course thcre is nothing to stopyou exploring the rest ofthe isiand fiorn here,but do notcoine to Piaya dellng16s(not

anEnglishmanaa‖ ,butaFrench■ 1lowwho was one ofthe irst foreigners to livc in the

area carly this century)and Maspalomasお

r

r・

No plain old streets(ο α′ 々s)either―

all

avenues,no lnatter how srnall.

・Ilo the s(outh are the beaches, and the

only itenl of genuine interest―

the dunes

of Maspalornas. Maspalornas itself is the quieter, you l■ ight say lnore exclusive, westenl perirneter of the reso■ . East of Playa del lng16s the resort continues but thins out in the areas known as Vieril and San Agustin. ´ 「 hcre are bus stops all over the resolts,a

couple of them right by Yumbo(which,

ぼ く Ｚ く Ｏ Ｚく に ０ 日● くＪり 一 ● ●ｔ 一

140 Around the lsland―

Playa del lng16s&Maspalo■

las

given the tOurist ofncc is here,is not a bad

consulate('928762500)at Avenida de

irst stop for thosc whO have not booked a rOOm ahead).

ria).

Gral Canaria 26(in HotcI Eugenia Victo‐

info『rnation ￢。urist ofnces・ The o■ cina dc lnfonna_ ci6n Turistica(● 928771550)is on thc corner of Avenida de lEspaia and Avenida de los Eslndos Unidos.It opens Monday to

Mloney Playa del lngi`s is crawling with

banks and exchangc booths, Maspalornas less so.Amcrican Express is rcprcsented by Vittes lsular(● 928760500),at Avenida

de Moya 14.

Friday iom 9 am b 9 pmiSamrday,om 9 anl to 2 prn.

Email Mike's BistЮ ,ne to Viales Posei‐ d6n in San Fernando dc Maspalornas,o優 しrs

Foreign Consuiate Austria inaintains a

drinkers fiee lntemet access.

周 島 盤"詢… `

Plava del lng16s& MasPaloコ nas

Guaお ia

Ci

l

CentЮ Sal● d Pdicね Locai “ r∞ s y To16g耐 os

AugHan Col、 “

ul● t●

viales insular a

AI“ ncan● ●nSS

pLACES TO STAV 7 ApamnntOG U“ 14 Hold Escoial 15 Cag〕 rb A2ul

PLACES TO● AT

l La Tasc● Ga‖ ●ga

"y Sd

17 Apammontos Roソ コ Pia2a ″ 卜 ●td Palm 8oaい

28,bte Maspalomas Oass

2 Ca“

16 Joソ Dls∞

Vlo,a

9 Mo9,ll●

Muda“ Frm∞

1l Casa Anton o

24 Rodau口 nta R16s Baias

る R08nittnt● L uguna 26 Restaumnto La Tola

a)olに ina

de

inbFrnd6n Turrsti“ Bus

21S」 cal

22 Happy BIking l“0子

n Offi∞

a cdn “ mu“ “

"●

A rLA N TIC()CEAN

0

Medical Services lt's probably because of

vrenching ment park,、″ith the kind of gut― ν

allthe drunken brawis and ecstasy overdos― es,but the resort is swarining、 vith clinics. The publiC CliniC(CCntrO de Salud)iS rather

rides you'd expect.

WanttO See a ShOWdOu′ n(maybe eVen a it'S OfftO SiOuX City fOr

hOC― dOWn?).Then

awkwardly locatedjustinside the CC-lα ″― ′ ο P′ sra at the nonhenl end of Maspalomas.

yOu,where good guys and bad guys shoot 'cm up, round 'cm up and gcnerally get

Across thc road ilonl thc tourist ofiice on

(mildly)Wild br yOur entertainment・ Ancr the west,a“ p to the Orient'Try carne:safari Park,On the road to Fataga.

the corner of Avenida de Espaia and Avenida de los IE.stados Unidosis a 24‐ hour clinic(● 928761292).

According to the brochure you can corne and eilJOy the oasis of palins and`relax lis―

Emergency Thc local police(1,9281415

tening to the singing of the birds and the

72)are near the Ayunmmiento on■ e Bar― ′ ranco dc Maspalornas. 「 he(〕 uardia Civil barracks(emergency● 062)are on Avcnida

rnurnlur ofthe cameis'.Munmur?!

de´ unte.

tllings generally rangcs fionl 1000 ptas up,

「 The main emergcncy numbers lorthe rest Of the isiand are valid here: local police

092); national policc (● medical emergency(● 061).

(‐

091)and

・ 「 he list goes on,but you probably getthe

g.eneral idea by no、 v.IEntry to these solls of

so keep your wallets toppcd up!

Swim口ning For many, the only energy avanable aier parけ ing at night w‖

i be just

cnOugh to get dov√ :l to the beach and col‐

Things to See&Do

lapse for the day. From east to west, thc

Therne Parks Borcd adults and ankle

bcachcs are knOvvn as Playa de las 13unias,

bitcrs alike can bc distracted by any nurnber of therne parks esPCCially developed in the south of the isiand for their benent.・ 140u'11

Playa del lng16s and Playa de Maspalornas.

sOOn knOw all aboutthem,as brochures are every、 vhcre to be found along、 vith touts to

prornote them. Pal171itOS Park,a feW ki10metreS nOrth Of the resort arca, is a subtropical oasis crarnrned with exOtic llora and 230 species

Of birds, a10ng with an aquariunl and 15 perfonning parrots. It opens daily :[om 9 anl to 6 pnl and buses run there rcgularly IIOm variOus stOps in Playa del lng16s(scc also Getting Around bclow for more infor‐ rnation On buSCS tO theSe attraCtiOnS).

Mundo Aborigen,On thc rOad nO■ h to Fataga,is、 vhcrc 100 or so model(〕 uanch‐ es stand in various ancient poses designed tO give you an idea of what life was like ′s lobbed up to herc before the οο″9″ IS′α ″ lο

IBIasically they all link up to forin the one

beach. The best part about Maspalornas is the dunes,which fold back fionl the beach and hNe been decI"ed a protected Park. ′ hcrc is a nudist′ u℃ a about、 1/herc the duncs bcgin if you are approaching fi:orn Piaya del lng16s.Atthe end ofa hard day's I｀

baking,sOrne nudists seeni tO think it is()K to wander around the rest ofthe dunesin the altogether too.()h well. Diving′ 「 he CentrO Turistico de Actividades

subacu■ icas

Sun‐ Sub(●

928768864),in

thc HOtel Buenavcntura,Plaza de Ansitc,in Playa del lng16s,organiscs diving trips and Other water activities.｀ Ylou'11■ nd a couple

of other diving outits scal■ ered around the resOn too.

`ノ

build therne parks about how they oncc lived.

Aqua lSur and Ocean Park are basical‐

Surfing&Windsurring Although suring iS pOSSible here(the beSt WaVeS tend tO

vacatiOn, Hoilday VVo『 id nlight do the

break ofF the west cnd ofIMaspalolnas by ο),■ iS iS nOt mind‐ thC li」 lthOuSe,Or.力 ″ blowing suring telTitory.Windsurfers hang

trick.It's basically an old― fashioned amusc‐

arOund in the saine spot,but are better off

ly pools with slides and rides. Forthose who need a vacation l卜

onl their

︲∼∼■■一 ・ ｏ ５ｏ ｍｏ 潔２ ‘

Around the lsiand― Playa del lng16s&Maspalornas 141

142 Around the lsiand_Playa del lng16sゼ

%Maspalomas

heading east beyOnd the rcsolls tO IBahfa Feliz, Juan Grande and, bcst of all, POzO Izquierdo. 1)oz。 lzqulerdo is for experi‐

enccd windsurfcrs.

Otherヽ

om

decP_sea nshing "ater toSpo"s yachttrips Everything■ or excursions

in old sch00ners can be organised here

following places are ine in their category―

large and impersOnal,but perhaps for this reason they'1l have a chance of sorncthing being spare when yOu ca‖ .But remember thc other 500 places.

И′αrra″ ο″わs Rο ッα′P′η α(奮 9287604 50),Avenida de los Altreces PЮ visiOnales 5, is not fhr flonl the beach in Playa del

through travel agcnts and many of the

ing16s and(ofiFers functional aparinlents lor

hoteis and apartinents.

tWO With bathr00rn and kitchen lor 5000 ptas.

MOuntain Biking Happy Biking(奮

92876

8298),in thc yumbo Centrum,“ nts Out a range Ofnlountain bikes fbr up to 3000 ptas a day.11｀ hey also organise cycle tours of up to 50knl staiing at 3900 ptas.′ he price in― 「´ cludes bikc hire and a picnic. 「 he tOurist

ofnce also produces a little brochure sug_ gesting several cycling routcs.

Places to lStay When you cOnsider that there are at icast 500 hoteis, apaniment blocks and bunga― 10WS in Playa del ing16s and MaspalolTlas, and that in peak periOds these placcs are oll:en full tO bursting, yOu can begin to

mcasure just what sort of phenOmenOn wc arc dcaling with hcrc.It is quit impossible

to even begin to assess where yOu shOuld hcad.Atthe end ofthe day yOu get,in rca‐

sonable measure, what yOu pay for. In inoderate to high season yOu are unlikely to

For the sanlc price you can get a silnilar deal at И′α″ ′ α″′″′ Os ιfb′ ′ クッSO′

('928

767454),Avenida de Tirttana 32,but it's :rther away,om the beach. lヽ

The apal■ mentsin Cα sa″ あИz″ ′ (‐ 92877 4060),Avenida de ltalia 5,are better,cost

6000 ptas fOrtwO and are close to thc beach. Acrossthe road at No 6,f`ο ′ Escο ″」 α′has `′ cOrnfortable doubles for 8700 ptas. Just so you lく now l10w thc Other halflive,

the premier establishments are Out by the

dunes in Maspalomas. Starting at 16,000 ptas and rising to 22,700 ptas per person, you can share a double and get halfboard at

Лiο たノPα ′ ″ β σみ (● 928 14 08 06), `α Avcnida del()asis s/n. く )r you could try 〃οた′Mas′ αあ″αs Oαsお (■ 928141448;

fax 928 14 11 92),on the samc avenuc.A double 、 vith ()cean views and breakfast thrown in will cost a coo1 21,300 ptas per pcrson.

ind anything for less than 5000 ptas for

two people― these are usually apa」

trnents,

which can mean bedrOOrn, bathroorn, kitchen and balcOny.

Most people cOrnc hcre on a package.

´ 「 his is notto say yOu can't do it alone.But in high seasOn especially you should get

here early in the day,pick up a list Ofplaces

to stay if yOu dOn't alrcady have one and

P:aces to Eat The placc is predictably swarming with eatcries.The bulk ofthem sctve up a prctty bland array of`internatiOnal' dishes de‐ signed tO keep any stOnlach■ lled,without upseting any palates. C'α sα И″ ′ ο″′ ο,Calle del Alcalde Marcial Franco 3, is a goOd place fOr grills,and it

start letting yOur ingers do thc walking.If

haS a deCent Set lunCh mcnu lor just 750

you don't havc your Own wheels,gct a good map(1lkC the One mCntiOned at the bcgin‐ ning Of thiS Chapter)and COnCCntratC yOur efiForts in an area within reasonable、 valking

ptas

distance.Rcinembcr that many apartments don't have anyOne in pennanent attendancc _it is on‐ cn useless to simply tunl up at the

address if yOu have not called ahead.・ he I・

R“ ′ α rα ″′ α RFaS 3りαS,On thC COmer Of Avcnida “ dc Tiralana and Avenida dc los Estados UnidOs, is a s。 lid seafood placc. Expcct to pay about 1800 ptas fbr a fbll lneal with wine. The lィ s6″ ′ α ″レdα a′

f弓″ α′ ,ε 。 ,。 n the roundabout where thc C)‐ 812 highway in‐ lθ

Around the lsland― Around Playa del lng16s&Maspalomas 143

riraり ana,has been serving up tapas and solid meals since

coines in the fonrl ofthe above― rnentioned

V/WII.￢ 6ou havc to ask yourself what solt

anything f:orn childrcn's wcar to electron‐

tersects with Avenida de´

centros colllerciales. In thel■

l you can buy

oftrade they did back in those days. Still,

ics.There's a lot ofjunk in thcrc,so take

the lood inakcs no conccsslon to non‐

care.「 hcrc is a Fedac store in the saFne

Canary palates and is not too pricey. Cα Saラ4σ α iSjuSt nOnh ofthe cc-l mo‐ topway along the road to Fataga_｀ 資 get a bus out here but a taxi or your`ou o、could vll wheeis inake life easier・ The`old housc'is

building as the tourist ofnce in Playa del

I｀

lng16s.It opens Monday to Friday fiom 9 anlto 2 pm and 4 to 7 pnl,and is worth a look before heading outto stock up on sOu― venirs.

indccd a low‐ roofcd and charmingly buc01ic amair,where a hearty meal win cost you around 1500 ptas. Zα 722scα Gα ′ ′ ,Avenida de las Am6ri‐ `gα dormitory satellite cas 40, in the outer

Gietting There&Around

suburb of EI・ Ilablcro,is a lively local placc with gre■ scafOOd and mpぉ ―it rcally takes

350 ptas.

you away,om the tourist crowd.You can

points along the south coast as far as Puerto

eat well for aound 1500 ptas.

dc Mog`n, and Las Palrnas. You should

ofthe ltalian places arOund,R′

sra″ ′ α″′

Zα ZJg″ ′ ブ α,Aivenida de Tirttana 24,is not`

bad.Notね ntastic(ifyou

are l● lian,do not eat ltalian fOOd OutSide ltaly!),but nOt bad, and you can get away with a little over 1000 ptas. Rθsrα ″′ α″″ Zα 71ル ちAvenida de Tiralana

Bus Bus 66 goes to the airpon cighttimcs a day, leaVing eVec/ o hOurS(■ rSt One iom the airport is誼 7.15 am).The ftte is

Buses also link rcgularly with other

pick up a salcai bus_route inap riom thc in_

lonmation ofnce in the Ylumbo Centrum in Playa del lng16s.It shows in detail where all

the bus stops arc throughout Maspalomas and Playa del lng16s(there arc plcnty). Salcai puts on not only regular intercity ser‐

vices, but also has buses to rnany of the

(Edincio Barbados II)is a quality establish‐

thenle parks listed abovc.

inent blending the best Of cuisines lrOrn lou shell out lor it イ France and (〕 alicia. ｀

AROUND PLAYA DEL:NGLES

though― don't be surl)rised to see 3000 ptas or rnore slip ef1lortlessly out ofthe l,OCket.

&MASPALOMAS

Puerto Rico&Resort Coast

lf Maspalomas has redeenling features in

Entenainment

・ 「 rying tO nalne panicular bars and discOs here is as utterly pointless within tlle scope

the shape of its great dunes and nightlife, lillle good can be sai(l of the chain of its resort cousins fb:ther west along the coast.

hang around in Yumbo Centrum for weeks

The Original ishing towns of Ar‐ guineguin and Puerto Rico must be in

and not try all the various bia・ s and discos.

there sornewhere,but they have been sub‐

Ofcourse,since inany ofthcnl arc gay,tlley

rnerged below the

might not catcr to all● stes― but there are plCnけ Of Staight plaCeS in theК tO。・

apartment blocks scaling the barren clifIも and hills of、 vhat rnust oncc have been a

of tllis guide as listing hotels. lFiou could

If you ever break out beyond Yumbo

serried ranks of

spectacular(if harsh)coastlinc.Not even

Centrurll, all the big shopping centres

the beaches are particularly good at either

(ε

′″″οS εο″ ′ α′ θS)haVe a least sOmc `κin thenl.And beyond therc bars and discos

OftheSe maSSiVe,CharaCterleSS rCSOrtS(nOr

arc still more bars and discos.

arc those■ 1lther、 vest still,such as PIaya del Cura and the reSOrtS Of TaurO and Taurit。 ),

which iettes you wondering just what all

Things to Buy

the fuss is about.In Pue■ o Rico you can eat

About the only interruption to the stream of

McDonalds,head to tllc pub for a pint of bi■ er and feel as though you'd never le貴

apartinents, hoteis, restaurants and bars

144 Around the lsland― Around Playa del lng16s&Maspalomas

ＺくαＯ ШＯ くコ０一

Brittin(WhiCh iS all Very Wcll if you ac ′り″ Britain). It、 vould

zone,but tastcfully done,with low two and thrce‐ storey

apartrnents, cOvcrcd in bougainvillea and other exotic nora and

takc months and be quiteipOint―

less trying to single out specinc apartlnents,

exuding an air Ofquict chainn despite the ar‐

threc‐ star hotels and the likc here.Ifthis is

tinciality of the place. And herc at least, there really is a nshing p。 ‖:and its sinall town clustered in bchind the tourist fa9ade.

your thing,you are advlsed tO book it ahead う rorn horne.

〈 :)nc ofthe few Ofncial camping grounds ‐ On thc island is locatcd off the (〔 〕 812 highwり just cast of Playa dcl Cura― it's the Cα ″P′ ″gG“ α″′ α″α″ο (● 9285602

07)and is nothing rnuch tO write honne

in?As it is, you can see the eyesore of Taurito l■ onl thc quays.

about.

If you need medical help,try the lEuro―

If yOu are dying for】 British food, yOu could do a lot worse than thc J夕 ,″ srο ″ C力 ′ θ カゴ ″,which is buried insidc the Pue■ o Rico“Shopping Centet lt is pretり ′good value for tlloney.()n the 2nd noor ofthe same complex,R′ srα ″″α″′0′ ル′′puts an i:naginative French spin on internatiOnal cuisine。 ヽ u'1l be lucky tO get any change fl・

YOu havc to wonder how thc locals win be able to hang on to this fairly adrnirable balance― when will the deve10pcrs move

`。 ptas,but the f00d is goOd and orn 2000

nlakcs a nice change frorn both Spanish and British fare!

pean Medical Centre(‐ 928565090). Activities l｀ he kinds of activities yOu would expectfhonl such a place are on offbr hcrc― 1鮨o■ l trips in a yellow subrnarine to diVing and 61Shing tripS(■ Shing tripS COSt

6500 ptas per person■ ・ om 3 to 8 pm―

hangers‐on can corne too for 4500 ptas).

′ If you 、 、 ant a taste Of the horrors of Pue■o Ricolalludcd to above,yOu can get a sea‐ bornc ride with Lineas Salinon― there

In ArguineguFn,good scalood can bc had

are seven daily boats each way and the

at mOdeSt priCeS'Om CO′ 'α″α ゴ′P′Sε α‐ ′ ″as, the ishing cOOperative. It's at Avenida del Muelleダ n.It evcn does gQβο

return fare is 1000 ptas. Ifparasalling rings yOur bell,call Water‐

lο

,

sportsIMIogan on mob‖ c●

970812800.

、 vhich you do not tend to see in big city restaurants or the resOrts.

Regular buscs connect thc two places with Maspalomas md Playa dellng16s(275 ptaS), and leSS l[equently With PuertO dc

Mogan ald Lお Palmas(755,ぉ ).

Puerto de Mo9in AlRler'Ilaurito, a couple of kllornetres of n』 gged and preけ nluCh unSp01lCd COaStline

Places to IStay′ 「 he apa■ inents a10ng the 、 vaterfront are generally lct by local peoplc, and ifyou simply turn up in the tOwn,start asking around thc shOps be10、 v the apa」 :1lents ― if the ones you try dOn't let

:‐

apartinents thernselves, they'1l sOOn pOint

you in the right direction.Prices vary ac_ cording to the kind ofapartinent,views and scason,but a basic rule ofthunlb is abOut

give you an irnpression of what this whole southern stretch of the island rnust havc

6000,as brtwo.

been like 40 ycars ago beforc anyOne riluch had thought oftourism in tlle Canaries.

‐ apaltments.Otherwisc,try P′ ″s′ 6″ Sα ′ νααο″ (' 928 56 53 74), Calle de la Coriente 13,where small but clean rooms in a raFnShaCklC hOuSe Wili COSt arOund 2500,as a double(nO singles).

Finally you round a bend and below you is a sinallish crescent Of sandy beach and next to it a busy lillle yacht harbour and

nshing port. Pucllo de Mogin, although now iargely givcn over to the tourist trade, is light years ioln its garish counterpans tO the east.

′ I｀

he wateri[ont is a purposc built holiday

In the town itselfyou can alsO hunt dOwn

If you have no luck at all on the water‐

彙ont or simply want a dirt cheap room,you can try a couple ofplaces about 2knt inland

On the main Юad out of Pucno de Mogin. Pθ ″ sあ ″Z″ ε″αα (●

928565643),Cane

Around the lsiand― Around Playa del lng16s&Maspalonlas 145

dc Lomo Quiebre 16,and Pa″ sあ ″ Eν α

Rico md Playa del lng16s(415 ptas).You

(●

alSO haVe rcgular depanures for Las Palinas

928565235),at No 35,both omer

2000,ぉ

(nO singles). Comlbrt‐ seckers could ty the」 ο″′C′ ″ b

■イ′(● 928565066;fax 928 56 54 38), ri』 t On■ ey¨ ht har"wside.Rooms and aparmlents ralge iom abo■ 8000,ぉ to 14,000 ptas for doublcs, depending on d′

iα

season and vlews.

Piaces to Eat For seafood, head for if

。pera_ rみ のノCaft

deliver good ish, who can? The yacht

harbour is lined with the usual internatiOn_ al● sort― style“ 飩aurants and ca“ s.Inlald, Rasrα ″ ′ α″た Cα ′ ″sο ,Canedcl

NOrth of Puerto de Mogan Just as Puerto de Mog`ln is a heavenly relief

・om the rclentless annies of apartinents, ■ bungalows and`truc B tish pubs'that have

Occupied mo試 ofhe cOast b■ e cast,so the ‐ 81l road nollh Out of here represents another exttaOrdinary leap away,oln the ([〕

R′s″ ″ ″ α″た cq/シ α″α,the nshing c。

tiVe C」 aurant On the quay―

(910 ptaS).

Pasae delos

Pescadores,is anOther iocal seafbOd iplace with a slightly more au emic air han he

― average tourist eatery.沢 ′ s′α ″ α″′ ′E′ βα′ “ he CalipsO ″ α″ ,just overthe bridge iom

and `ο on the main road Out Of tovvn,sorne― tilneS putS On a cold buffbt for 700 ptas.

Ce ng The腱 &Away There is no short‐ age of Salcai buses heading east to PuertO

rnaddening tOurist crOwds. 1｀

he road st:ults a gradual ascent to the

town of Mogin,the lnunicipal capital.It's a pleasant place with a handnll of rcstau¨ rants and bars,but nOthing in particular to

see or do.From her the C_81l winds offb the north‐ 1″est,leading 24km to the Aldea

de San Nico16s(sce Thc North above). Altematively,you cOuld head north― east up the barramco for Ayacab.About 5kin of this road,which clirnbs toltuously up the baren and ionely ravine,is dirt tack_quite driveable b■ apan.FЮ m Ayacatt you c2m hmg a len md headお r Taeda and the

hi』 eSt"intS CirCuit alX,Ve).

of■ e isiand(s∝ Cental

０＞Ｚ＞刀一 ＞

simple doublc roorns withOut ourn bath for

Isia de Fuerteventura HIGHL:G HTS

If you were to closc your cycs and ny in ,onl Laayoune,little inore than 100knl cast

in Moroccan‐ occupicd western Sahara,you could be fbrgiven for thinking yOu hadn't

OCFAN

ATLA NTIC

an extrcntely parched picture. Its villages

and towns, with thcir bundles of white‐ washed,n■ _r。 。■d houses,largely modem

ノ

、 ︲ 卜 Ｚ ﹂ ＞ 世 ”“ 麟 Ｏ Ｌ Ｌ Ｏ く Ｊ ￠ 一一

rnountain ridges of Fueiteventura prcsent

Al…

,

与

，

、 ︲／           Ю ‘ ヽ １       ● 口 α ，ミ ｌ ｍ

くに

L`P● lma

iashed)by he Atlantic,me dunes,shrub― studded plains and arid, knife‐ edged

¨ Ｆ¨

gone anywhere. Lapped(and sometiines

… ご

cm ●轟轟

and unimaginatively fashioned of poured ghttt home cぉ t across concret,would be

ヅ ′ ノ

′ ≪

ri議

desert wastes ofNo威 h Attica. Fuerteventura's1660 sq knl inake it the

the se:ni―

Relaxing on thellendless strands ofthe Jandia peninsula's lPlaya de Sotavento The ro‖ ing dunes of Co「 rale」 0

second largestisland in the archipelago but,

with only 41,629 inhabitants(known as MaoreЮ s,■ om thc GuFmche name b thc

Surfing and windsuring around Cor‐

nOrthem kingdom ofthc island― IMaxora‐

and EI Col‖ o Exploring the old town of BetanCuria

tり ,it iS OnC Ofthe leaSt pOpu10uS・ It iS alSO

Lunch on lsla de Lobos

rale」 o

rather nat_the highest peak,knO、 vn vari_ ously as the Orejas del Asno and the Pico de he S° uthFn Jandfa hmS'

LattFib鳳 」

of southern 《ran Canaria and l'enerife.

ThC empけ interiOr,Where fOr CenturiCS

:〕

tough― living hcrdsrnen have scratched out a

Pcrhaps it'sjust a question oftimc,butお

living with their nocks of equally hardy gOats,holds a deinite fascination,although

the mornent,thc ofllcial line scerns to be to

r

keep developrnent under control.

for inost visitors the coast is the inain at―

traction. And the ntiles of white sandy

Hisbry

beaches are not only a sun― seeker's delight.

The iSlald WaS knOWn(減 lCaSt in theOry)tO the Ronlans as Planaria,but thc(:〕 uanches

Serious surtrs and windsurirs will■ nd

called it Maxorata― or most ofit at any ratc.

near idcal conditions year round. Thc Occan is notjustお r■ olicking in― it is thc isianders'life bloo(1.Rainfall hcre is negligible, so vittually all the water con‐ surned on the island is desalinated Atiantic. E)iving and big garne nshing are also hooks to hang your holiday on. :Bluc and、 vhite vahoo and rnarlin, various kinds of tuna, ヽ

What thc Europcans calme to dub Fucrte‐

Ventura(`StrOng WindS')WaSinね Ct diVided into t、 vo

h as La Pared,and Maxorata,which occupied

the rcst ofthc isiand.

Fucitcventura was the second island to fali to thc nrst wavc of conquerors under

ski」 ack all ply thc occan waters ofF thc

isiand.Ifyou suppollitag and release,there

Jean de 136thencourt in January 1405. I‐ Ie had already established a fortthere in 1402,

is nothing to stop you catching nsh and

but had been obliged to seek aid for his arn‐ bitions■ ・ orn the C〕 astilian crovvn in Spain

letting the poor blighters go.

′

Ilourisnl is here to stay,but Fuerteventu‐

ra is still a long way,om the reso■

tribal kingdorns: Jandia, which

tOOk up the southern peninsula as far no■

horors

before procceding.Although the isiandcrs

146

Isla de Fuc■leventura―

Acconlmodation 147

resisted thc Spaniards they could nOt hold

egy(h

out lor iong. IE)e136thencourt chose tO set up a pernla― ncnt base in the rnOuntainOus zone of、 vhat

pli″ liお greatly!).

CainC tO be knOWn aS BetanCuria(lunny

Lobos(for which you need a spccial

abOut that).HC had a Chapel built and the VillagC that greW up arOund it,Santa Marfa

pennit).

de lBetancuria,bccarne the island's capital.

´ he choicc oflocatiOn was(ietermined not ´ by aesthetics but by hard reasOning. 「 he I｀

area providcd onc of the isiand's few lil■ itcd 、 vater supplies and the terrain lornled a natural if impcrfcct dcfcncc

against cOuntcr_attack ll・ onl(〕 uanches and, latct raids by piratcs.

Ncw se■ lements spread slowly across the iSiand,but not untilthe 1 7th century did the

Europeans Occupy Ei Clotillo,once the seat

ofthe Guanchc Maxorata kingdonl.At this

ng a VChiCle ofsomc sort will sim‐

Camping is nOt perinitted On the island, although there is One grOund On the lsia dc

Gemng There&Away

Air The airpOrt(● 928851250)is 6km south of Pucrto del Rosario.Binter has six flights a day to Gran Canaria(35 minutes; 7610 ptas)and two a day tO Tenerife No■ e

(50 minutes;9800 ptas).Air Europa has SeVeral daily schcduled nights to Gran Canaria,Tcnerifc Nonc and also Lanzarote

(Arecit). otherwise, charter nights connect the island with rnainland Spanish citics and several European centrcs(including Lon‐

tirne the Arias and Saavedra familics tOOk control of thc sa″ ο″ο, the isiand govern‐ incnt dcputising for the Spanish crown.By thc lollol、 ving century,however,。 fncers of

don,Manchester,Arnsterdarn,Munich and

the isiand rnilitia had established tllem‐

mation oficc(●

SeiVeS aS a rival power base in Laく )liva.

to 8 pm seven days a weck),ctt rental rep― rescntatives,■ 10ney exchangc services and an Al'M good for nlost international cards.

7′

Los Coroncles(the lColonels)gradually took vil■ ual cOntr。 1 0f the isiand's afllairs,

Frankfb■ ).・ The chartcrs generally Opemte only o orthree days a wcek. At thc airpOrt yOu'1l find a tourist infor‐

928851250;o"n9am

their nlain ainl apparently being to enrich

thernsclvcs at thc cxpense of both the

Sea Three weekly ferics link Arrccifc

s`″ ο″

′ `s and the hard― he rnilitia Was disbanded in 1834 and in 1912 the isialld was igranted a degree Of seliadministratiOn with the ins愴 1latiOn Of

(Lanzarote)and Las Palmas de Gran

the CabildO, as in the rcmainder Of the

ing between Corralejo in thc nOnh and

archipelag。

Playa Blanca in Lanzarote's south.

pressed peasantry.

I｀

.

Canaria with Pucrto del Rosario,whilejct‐ foils go to Las Palinas■ ・ olTI Moro Jable. Regular ferries make the One‐ hour crOss―

Accommodation

Getting Around

Finding a placc to stay arnong the apart‐ rnents and occasional hOtcl, 力οs′ α′and ′θ″S′0″ in the coastal resorts can be prOb‐ lenlatic.In the case Ofmany apartments you can't even book ahead,as they work exclu‐

Clivcn the less than cOmprehensive public

transport cover, having your own whcels will greatly erlllance yOur capacity tO get around the isiand.

sively with tOur Operators and their

Tlo′ Fro口 n

clientele.

´ 「 his is nottO say it's inlpossible,but yOu deinitely need solne luck On your side.If

taxis to Pue■o dcl Rosa

things iook grirn, head for PuertO dcl Rosario where yOu shOuld encounter few

ofthe isiand.Taxis direct iom the airpOn tO Con'ale」 o cost 4300 ptas,to EI Cotillo 4900

problelns getting a roOnl.with a roof over

ptaS and to the Jandfa beaches around 9500

your head you can wOrk Out your next strat‐

ptas.

the Airpod:Ylou can get buses or

o(see the Ge ng Around cntry undcr PuertO del Rosario be10W)and iOm there buSeS to othcr p`rts

148 1sia dc Fueneventura―

(3etting Around

l

」ヽ ■′

К ①ト

PLya

Isla de

Pumo● d Ro● 齢 o

● ¨

中﹂

くαつ卜ＺＬ＞ロト∝饉ＯＬ 田Ｑ くコの一

Fuerteventura

ArLANTIC OCEAN

鴫

p

● Ｖ    ぐ

ノ ′1

ノ

Bus Tiadhe provides a liinited service,with

it is wOrth investing in a Tarieta Dinero,a

13 1ines operating around the isiand.The mOst iequent runs link Pue■ o del Rosalo with Corrale,o in me north(No 6)ald wi Calem de Fuste(via me ai■ )Ort)to the sou

discount card for 2000 ptas. Instead of

(No 3).Linc No 5■ om Moro Jable to thc

―it represents about a 30%savillg on each 廿ip.

rly“ gular,btt oth‐ Costa Calma is also erwise the tequency drops or radicany t。 as few as one bus a day.Some lines don't ope“ te at an on sunぬ y. IfyOu intend Ю uSe■ e buSeS a 10t(eVen

o“ rcmm

p be"veen Moro Jめ le md

Corralcio,changing at Pue■ o del Rosano),

buying individual tickets on the bus lor each tmp,you tell the driverヽ vhere you are going and stanlp it in a rnachine on thc bus

Taxi Ylou can belt`round in 12xis, but it soon becomes an expensive habit.The trip 命om Puc■ o del Rosario to Coralejo cOsむ abo■ 3200● as;Ю Morro Jable you'd pay 9500 ptas.

Puerto del Rosario― HistOry 149

Puetto dei Rosario p″ ″′ ・ ′ο Ю″ノ

TheК &Away above)is Open daily,om 9 anl to 8 prn.

Money YOu'1l ind plenty Of banks with

θ

`5θ

With almOst half the isiand's population, Puelllo del ltOsario is a relativcly rnOdern little pOn tOwi that Only really t。 。k offin thc 19th century.If you iny in to the isiand

or usc the buses yOu may well■ nd yourself paSSing thrOugh・ It'S a SCru的 ′SO■ ofplace, giving the inlprcssion ofhaving bccn spread

´f「 MS a10ng and around Avenida del Uno de Mayo.BancO de santandet atl、 I。 31,is just one ofhalfa dozen.

POst a c。 ■1:munications The central OrreOS y Tle16grafbs is at Avenida del Uno de Mayo 58.,IIou'11■ nd plenty oftclephOne (〕

boxes arOund the centre.The postcode 10r

like a thick clump of white peanut butter OVer the dusty earth. Pedestrian concrete

Puel威 o del Rosario is 35600.

housing deve10prnents seep slowly and hig―

mediCai Services & Emergency The

gledy―

piggledy into the surrOunding dry

country.

iSland's Hospital General(●

928531799)

iS On the highWay tOWardS the airport.For

When Spain pulled out Ofthe Sahara in 1975,it sent about 5000 Lcgi6n Extranjcra (Foreign Legion)troops to Fucnevcntura to keep a watch on lNbrth A■ ica.Their huge qualters― a cross betwcen a prisOn and a Bcau Geste fbrt― are still in use,although

the remaining iRegimientO de SOria Only

an ainbulance can 061 0r the Cruz Roja (RCd Cross;● 928851376),Avenida de la Constituci6n 19.Thcrc's a Ccnto de Salud (hCalth CliniC)On Canc del Uno de Mayo.

The main Polici` Nacional(police 928850909)is on Avenida de

Station;●

Juan de B6thencOun.

nurilbers abOut 1000.

Things to See

History

About the Only spccinc sight is the Casa

AlthOugll it WaS■ )unded in 1797 and was

MuSeO de unarTluno,Calle dcl Ros′

for a 10ng tilTle litle mOre than an insigniF

ll.´ 「 he lBaSquC‐ bOrn

iCant CluSter Of hOuSeS,Pue■ o del Rosario beCame the iSiandl'S Capital in 1860,due to

its grOwing iinpOrtance as a harbour Until 1956 it was known as PuertO de las

Cabras,namcd a■ er the goats for which it had long becn a watcring holc beforc be‐ COrning the main depallure pOint lor thcir cxportin the fonn ofchOpstO the rest ofthe archipelag。

.

OrienLtion

´ 「 he centre of town backs away

・ ■ om the

u・

iO

philosopher Miguel

de Unamun。 , cxiled lbr his OppOsition tO the diCtatOrShip of Priino de Rivera,ended up in thiS hOuSe,then the Hotel Fuel口 leven‐

tura,■ om March tO July 1924.He later cscaped to France and rcturned to his pOsi‐

tion at Salalmanca lUniversity when the Rcpublican governrnent calne to power in 1931. Part ofthe house has been mrlled intO a period Piece, with う urnishings and other

odds and ends iom unamuno's day,in‐ Cluding hiS desk.It opensヽ 4onday to Friday

port,and anything yOu rnight nccd is within easy strolling distance.

'Om ainaln to tol l.30 pm and 5to 7 pm;Saturday ■ 0■19 10 pm.Admission is ice.

informat:on

During his cxlle,Unamuno uscd to scek S01aCe On the lPiaya Bianca,about a 45

￢ourist ofrice You can get infonmation at the O■ Cina de Turismo(●

928530844),

Avenida de la cOnstituci6n 5. It opens

Monday tO Friday'om 8am■ o2pm.Oth‐ erWiSe,the OfnCe atthe airpo■ (see Ge■ ing

rninute walk sOuth ofthe town centre.

Special Events T'hc tO、 vn

puts on its party ciothcs on the

nrSt Sunday of(Dctobcr tO cclebrate thc

150 Puerto del Rosario― Places to Stay

― α″′ ′ Cα s′ ″ο E′ Pο ″ priccs,is the R`sra′ ″ ″on(Calle de la Cruz. ″ ″′

Ficsta de la Virgen del ltosario,the capital's

patron.

Places to Stay There are few good reasons for staying,but ifyou have a hard tirne getting a room else‐

where on the isiand you can bc pretty sure that sornething will be avallable here.

For pi22a)Or a reaSOnable apprOXiinatiOn thcreof,you could do worse than Pizz′ ″jα ■ 「 」)α ′ fο , Plazolcta de Lazaro Rugarna Nieves 3. ,′

If yOu end up staying at thc Pensi6n Rubcn Tinguaro,Masδ ″ιαs 3″ αsas,Callc

″οs′ α′物″αs″′(● 928850280),Ca‖ e de Le6n y Castillo 9, is a well situated

de Juan XXI11 68,is a good place ncarby,

pensi6n with charmless but good, clean

starting at around 1200 ptas,and lyou can order a side dish of papas arrugadas con

singles/doubles for 3500/4500 ptas.Rooins have a batll,phone and´ 「 V.It's one ofthe bcttcr choices in tovvn,but not if y()u are a light sieepcr;thc noise filonl thc bar in thc sainc bullding can be a bit rnuch on wcck‐ ends.

cheapcr is P′ ,な ′

(,92885

14α carfο

serving a fair range of ish and meat dishes

m。り O plcon. For chu:■ os and chocolatc, you should g″ α ″η″ Ю tt Pla“ stOp by tt the C`≠ ,た ′

dc Espaia 7.

Enterbinment

dOubles(no singlcs)oost 2625 ptas.The

You can enjoy a pleasant dnnk a the tcrraza on the、vaterside Avenida de los Reyes.For

roorns are ine but the arca is, to put it mildly,forlorn.At No 27 the santc pcople

grungieL blue‐ lit boozing, stop by Pub Milcna,in the lane nextto I― Iostal・ anlasitc.

also run somc apartments(unavanable a

PacO's Bar,Calle del Doctor Mena 8,is

the time Of Writing).

another popular llangout.

`″de Austria 24,where 1197),Calle de Juan

g″ α ο (● P′ ″sあ ″ R″b`′ η″

9288510

For later in thc evening,on wcckends at

any rate,head for Pub Evening,Calle del

88),Cane de Juan XXII1 “48,has basic

PrOfesOr Juan′ Tladeo Cabrera 17,and E)isco

roolns for 2500/3500 ptas.

〃ο′ ′′降セあ″(●

I｀

928850618),Ca‖ e

de

la Candelaria del Castillo 10, has singles/

dOubles for 2090/3750 ptas. It's lC)K, but

Pub Mainbo,located at No 4 on the sarne street.

ng There&Away

nothing spectacular.

Ge

ο″α′ αθ Z″″お″ο Thc Pα″α′ο″ ハ4α ε′ (● 928851150;fax 928 85 11 58),Cane

Air Scc the beginning of this chapter for night infonnation.

de la Playa Blanca 45, overiooks Playa

9288521 66)buses leave

Blanca,3km south ofthe toヽ vn centre.｀ 140u

i3us′ iadhe(‐

will have to overiook the fact that it sits

nrom the inain bus stop on the cOrner of

right under the night path for the nearby air!port. Rooins are nice enough, but not

Avenida de Lc6n y(Clastillo and Avenida de ´ la Constituci6n. rhe following serviccs Opcratc■ om Puc■ o del Rosario:

wotth the 9200/11,500 ptas given thc loca‐

I｀

tion.

Line No l To MIorro Jablc via Tuinqe(eight times a

Places to Eat ο,Cane α″た E′ G″ α″′″ R`s′α′″

del Alcalde

Alonso Patallo 8,is hardly the last、 vord on

anlbicnce,but it has a s(olid menu and thc set iunch (rnen6 del dfa)costs 950 ptas. (1)thcrwisc inain dishes start at around 1000 ptas.

A rung up in the d`cor departrnent, but With muCh the Same qualiけ fOOd at Simi!ar

day;tWO hOurS;1000 ptaS) Line No 2 ■io Viega dcl R〔 o dc Palinas via Bctancuria (twice a day,50 min

es,400 ptas)

Line No 3 To Caleta de Fuste via thc airport(26 timcs a

day;20 minutes;200p●

s)

Line No 6 TO COraie」 o(26 timcs a day;40 minutes; 350 ptas)

Pue■ o del Rosario―

Line No 7

Geting There&A:way 151

o via La()liva,、 vhile the FV-20 takes yOu tO BetanCuria and On b Pttara and the rale」

To EI CotiHo via La Oliva(three times a day;

1%hous;500 ptas)

south‐ west cOast.

Line No 10 To MoFo Jable via thc aiつ 0■ (■ ree times a day eXCept On Sundaly;1ン :hOurSi 1000 ptaS)

nrorn thc town.「 he northcrn coast rloute t(。

sea Trasmediterranea fe:Ties ieave金 。1. the Estaci6n Maritiina at inidnight On ・rueSday, ′ 「 hurSday and Saturday for Las Palmぉ de Gran Canaria(eight hours;3500 ptas).At ll am On the same days a tHγ

COraleio is the FV-1.Hcading in the oppO_

dcparts for Arecit(Lalzaote).The trip

site direction tO the airpo■ and ultilnately

takeS threC hOurs and costs 1050 ptas.YOu

the Jandfa peninsula is the FV…

Can get tiCketS at their ogice(●

Car a Motorcycle Four main roads fan Out Iヽ

2.The FV‐ 10 SiikeS nOrth‐ West for EI Cotillo and Cor¨

PLACES TO STAY

9288508

77)at Cane de Lc6n y Casti‖ o58.Naviera

○

2 Pensi6n Rubon■ nguaЮ 3 Apartamono8 Macaい o 4 Pensi6n Ma“ no

PLACES TO):巨 AT l MosOn Las B餞 簑is

12 RedaumnO Casino EI Pol∼enir

16 Caletera￢ o9uaЮ V 17 P:2Zena EI Palo

27 Rostaunnb E:GttneЮ

0

OTHER

・ ¨ ・ 一 ・ ｒ ︲

5 Cen“ de Salud

7 0ndm“ Tunsm

8 Cm2Ro,a

9 1nOrO"BuS StOp

10T“ sr露 爛腱o子 饉nea O"ice 13 Paoo's Bar 15 Pub Milena 10 COrα )SyT● 169皓 bs 19191o● 1● de Nuo● ra Senora dol Rosano Rank

23 Pub Evening 24 01loina de Medio

ｍ

ｏ ｎ ｌ ａａ ｌ

而同

ね 呵

ｋ ｎ﹁Ｇ Ｉ ａ 輌祠 囲Ｒ

Ban∞ de Santander Disco Pub Mambo

“ヽ﹄師

ATLANTIC OCEAN

do

21 Ta

６８９∞ １ あ２ ２２ ３

Puerto del Rosa■ o

20 Cab‖

152 The No■ h― Road to La()liva

Armas also has a trry for Las Palmas on ′ uesday and 'Thursday. able atthe same ofice. I・

′

rickets are avail_

fake air abOut it. liぅ 。 u can fo11。 w the road out of・ Ilena and

swing right(west)on the FV-21l br Casa delos Mo‖ nos.Onthe way you can't miss

Getting Around To′ F『 om

Fucnleventura',as it has that unrnistakably

the Airport The No 3 bus to

ofwhatis the。 ld mill,sited on the properり ′

Caleta de Fuste runs 26 times a day:け oin

now a handicrats school. Casa de los

MIonday to S■ urday(6.30 am to 9 pm),

Molinos itself is littie rnore than a few sinlple houses overlooking a sr:lall black pebble beach. 1`ou can eat seafood at the ′ ″οs while gazing over α″r`ι οsル ′ Ras′α ″ “ breakers. `ο Atlantic ′ urning on yourtracks and hcading nolth again for La()liva,you pass on your leni a

stopping at the airport about 10 ininutes befOre reaching Caleta de Fuste.([〕 oing the

Othcr way,the busleaves prctty much every

halfhour,om 6.30 am to 9.30 pin.Thc No lo direct bus behvcen Puerto del Rosario andヽ 4oll・o Jablc also calls in at the aill)()it・ 1｀

hc trip between Puelto and the airpo灘

I｀

rnOnurnent to Miguel de Unamuno; the

takes 10 to 15 1ninutes and costs 125 ptas. A taxi wili cost about 700 p● s.

statuc, created by sculptor Juan 13orges

13us(1)ne rnunicipal bus does the rounds of vn cvery hour,but you are unlikely to

isiand's gOat CheeSe,9″ ωο″″ο″Ю ,iS produced.

the to、

ofTindaya, a sprawling centre where sorne of the Lineres in 1970,liesjust sou■

The Basquc sculptor,Edu`霞 do Chillida,

nccd it.

TlaxilfyOu nced a cab,ca11■ ,928850059 or 928 85 02 16.

has caused considerable controversy with

his plan tO bOre a hole into Montaia de Tindaya,just to the no“

h ofthe town.The

50 cubic inette space,a kind Of interilal es‐

planade, is supposed to makc its visitors

The No■ h

`feei small in their physical dinlcnsion,and brOtherh00d with a1l other people'.Ecolog―

ical groups pcrceive all solls of dark

ROAD TO LA OLiVA

capitalist interests bchind the projcct,al‐

The FV‐ 10 hi♪ way shoots wesmards away io■ l Puero del Rosario into the barren in― terior of the isiand. 13efbre it crosses the ridgeback that fol■ ris thc isiand's backbone, thc Ю ad paSSeS thrOu」 ヽthC SiCepy hamletS Of￢ etir and La Mlati:la.Thc demure chap31 in the latteris a good cxamplc ofthe siinplc,

though Chillida claims to have eXplicit

bucolic buildings ofthe(3anarics. About 4k:n south ofLa Matilla,￢ efFa lies on the FV-207 to Betancuria(see Betancu― ria ltter in thiS Chapter).Wha makes this

Thc No 7 bus■ olm Pueno del Rosario to Tega and El Cotino passes thЮ ugh all b

place intercsting is the handfu1 0fpartly re_ stOred rural houscs.,Iう

ou can wandcr about

it any tiinc of day,butif you wantto get a peek inside the houses,you should turn up be、 vcen 10.30 arn and 6.30 pm.´ rhe dis― plays tell you something of how islanders

used to live and explain the process of restoration. It's a sharne that this was the

Only way to preserve sonnething of`old

promises ionl the Canary lsiands govern―

ment that no hotels or other inoney― spinning operations will be builtin the area.

Anony:Tlous threatening phone calls and lcttcrs notwithstanding, Chilllda is unde―

trrcd.

Casa de los Molinos three tilnes a day.IBus lヽ

Io 2 benveen Puerto del Rosario andヽ iega

Tega twice a day. Thcre are no buses to lCasa de los Molinos. del RIo dc Pal:nas passes by・

LA OLiVA jο ″23θ θ ′ ・ ρο l′ ″ `α (E)ne‐ tiine

capital,in fact if not in narne,Of

the isiand,La O‖ vaゞ ill

beそ rs

a few traces

of gmder dayS.The Weiま ty“ 1l tOWer Of

Thc Nonh― Corralejo 153 the 18th‐ century

iglesia de Nuestra

senOra de la candelaria is the focal point ofthis no、 ・ 、unprepOssessing town.・

the south, the 18th‐

「o

century Casa de los

Coroneies stands in decrcpit isolation, 。vemln by goats.The ofncers wh。 。 e pЮ sided hcF cenainly led “ e high lit. Virtually controlling the affhirs of the isiand fiom the early 1700s,the only kind of law and Order these guys、 ″ere interest― ed in was that、 vhich helped increase their

OWn power ald wealth.They appropnated land and threw■ hc pcasant cla,s into such

as● subjugation in 1834"of Madabjcct d,:偽tudal ced with reFttatedthat bloody nlutinies on the isiand,saw itsclfcompelled to disband tllo lnilitia. :PrOblenl was, the now ex― coloneis still held OntO the appro― priated iⅣ ealth.

the lobste卜 red fbrei31ers wandering naked

around the dunes tO the sOuth OftOwl?

In faCt,What makeS COraleiO are the blinding white sands Of the dunes which Slweep back in gcntle sugarloaf rolls fiorn thc crystal blue ocean.Set asidc as a park, no one can build on or near thenl.

infonnlation

TOurist orice The o■ cina de Turism。

928866235),Plaza Grande de Cor‐ mlejo,o"ns Mondり to Friday iom 9 am (●

to l prn and 4.30to 7.30 prn;Saturday 17om 9 anlto noon.

Money There are plenty of banks with

ATMs.The BBV bank On the conler of Avenida delく 〕eneral Franco and(E)alle de Lepanto is a handy one.

There is nowhere to stay here.Thc No 7

bus betwecn Puerto del Rosario and El

Post a cOm『 nunications The main cor_

cotino passcs thoutt thee times a day.

rCOS ylle16grafosis on Callc de Lepanto.For

CORRALEJ0

phone calls,go to the special cabin set up Outside the Centro Comercial Atiantico on

p″ ′ α′ ,ο ″イ θθθ ・ ρο

llourism is what rnakes this place tick,but,

Avenida del《 [leneral Franco.It opens seven daysf=on1 9.30anlto l pnl and 5.30to 10pnl.

SurprisinglD′ ,it has been kepttO nlanageable

Thepostcode forCorraleio is 35660.

levels.1・he bulk of thc ih01iday apartments

and resorts arc resolutely 10w rise and the town centre still retains sOme resonance of

Medica: Sen′ ices Ylou can choose l"orn several private clinics sct up here, as in

wh■ was once a simple ishing viHage.

Other rcso■ ls, lor tourists. Ciinica M6dica

You can but wonder what goes tiTough the ininds Ofthe weather― beaten ishennen

Brisama('928536402),on Avenida del

sittillg do、 vn

〈eneral Franco,is open 24 hours a day. [〕

to a beer and cards in their

portside club, the(1)ofi・ adfa de 10s iPesca‐

dores.Just、 vhat do tlley really thinkl about

Ennergency For an ainbulance, cali the Cruz Roia on● 928860000.The Policfa Local(● 928866107)havc a statiOn On Paseo dcl Atlantico.

Things to See a Do Parque Natural de Corraleio y Lobos

´ he beach duncs ofthis park stretch along I｀

the cast coast fOr about 10km iom Cor― ralcjo.

It can get brcczy here,and your prede‐ CeSSOrS havc already appled theiringcnuiサ to the problcm― the linic f01“ resses Of100se stones,most corninOnly erected atop shrub‐

CoVered sandy kn。 1ls, are designed to Sand SCulpture On Piaya de COrra!e10

prOtect sun― worshippers from the wind.lY`Ou

154 The Nonh― Coraleio

︵ ｏ■ＲＯこ ３ 一ｏあ ｏ３● ３●２ ３ ●﹂ ３●工・ ｃＯ〓ｇＯ ｙ≧０∽ ﹄ 一Ｎ●０●００ ， ８あ ８ 一 ﹄ Ｅ ３ ■ ８ こ０ ●〓 一コＯ ｃョＬ 一 ユ理錮ｂＯ ｅｔＲ︶ｏと０ ︿ ６■ ０ ヽコ●こＳ´雪ョ〓●＞ 一 Ｐ ５ ９﹂ コン ８一 ， ﹄ ３ｃ● ｏヽく ｇ ■一 贅Ｘう ●０〓 ＯＬ 一

０ ﹁喘  口 国

ｏ一 ０■・ 目 Ｏυ ｀ 丁

■ Ｚ 饉 ＞ 田 卜匡 口 ⊃ Ｌ 出 ｎ く 轟 の 一

６ ●８ 〓 １ ８ ５ 〓 １ ９ヽ Ｒ ８” ３ 一 Ｅ ８ ０￡ Ｒ Ｅ〓Ｅ ｃ塁 一 翻 ｐ‘ り一 ン‘ヒリ０卜 ０●０‘ヨＬ

讐 ｒ ８ ＥＥ Ｏ ａ く Ｒ

総 こ あ‘ “ ＸＯ〓 ＸＯ卜 ｐｃｇ ８ ｏコ ８ ８ ， 菫，Ｅ ＯＬ ８ こ一 ●０ 卜Ｎ ＞ ８ 一０い ﹂３ ８， 豊 冒 場 星 〓 総 こ＾ 羮３ｏ● ●一コＯＥ ｂ Ｏ ● も・ ８ 一８ ｏ７ ■ ｃ配 口 ● ↑‘” ０卜 の四０く“Ｌ

，

・

●●

８ 一 ８ ８ ０ｔ ８ こ 一 ｔ 一 ３ ﹂ 〓ＣＥ 遍 ト 一 ●● ｃｏｒ 減０一 〇

︵ Ｆ く︶ ，さ 日 ＞田 ８■ ３ 一 Ｐ 、８ ８ ８ ｏ８ Ｂ Ｏちく ００こい る ●ｏШ 一コＯ ＣョＬ﹁〓

ヒコ一 コ■ ●● ＯＣＯ姜０  ” ， ●０● ， “０︶ ０■ 一

● ０ ●

●

Ｅｏ〓Ｒ ７３ ●Ｏ ｅｅ２●２ ●¨ ■こ●５●聟バ︶ト ３ Ｌも ２ ８ ６ 一 ２一 エ コｏ３つ ● ●８ ■ ８ ● ５ ０ ３ ０Ｌ ＯＣ３ Ｌ ８ ∽３ ８ ‘ ■ こ に ０〓０９ ３ 重Ｏ Ｎ己 Ｏ ｃ一 〇０ ８ ■ ｅ ｃ８ ６ ０９ Ｌ Ｅ〓ｔＣ〓 ＥＯ●コ●ｕ ，

くに

→◎

R33838 99馬 ヽRヽ R

'99ヽ

ネ“ 口貿ｖ８ ■●こ

/

３ンロ〓０に０一 もｏ﹄ 一 ■  ０■ Ｌｌ ﹁ 〇ＯＣ ｏ一ｏｌ ︰︲ ‘ ａ Ｏ一 ｌ ，

２ く い０ ０

９ ︼﹄ ２ く 口い く

Thc North― Co“ alc」 o155 nlay have tO search around a while to llnd onc that isn't alrcady Occupied― rnore。 食cn

Cruiscs to lsia de lLobos for 1700 ptas pcr person.

than not by nudists whO, when thcy ineandcr about thc dunes in all thcir glory,

seem utterly iinperviOus tO the elelments. Nudi,on these beaches is nOt,by the way, Obligatory,so yOu should not feel ernbar‐ raSSed tO lkeep One Or tヽ VO iteFnS Of C10thing

FiShing&Je“ kiing At the port,you can alsO Organise deep sea nshing trips with Balマik(● 928535710),with departures at

8.30 am,or Pcz Velero(●

866173).Thcy

cook your catch.

Jetskis(4000 ptas br 20 minutes)are

on if you so ch00sc.

Diving DiVC Centre Coralcio(● 9288662 43),just back■ om thc wateriont,organis_

aVailable fOr rent at the port,■ Jcts(● 928535210).

om Lobos

eS● ,VO‐ diVe day tripS.′ hey lcave at 8.30 ain

Piaces to Stay

and return at l.30 prn.You can also lcarn to dive hcre and hire ali the necessary equip_ rnent.InforrnatiOn is available at the booth at AVenida dcl(〕 eneral F'ranco 50.

lt can be a rcal hassie finding sOrnewhere to stay here.IfyOu don't have、 vheels it can be

r・

Windsurnng(3onditions along rnuch ofthe

worse,because a 10t Of the apartnlents arc Strung out a1011g the bcach south Of the town.Still more Of a pain,rnany deal only With tOur OperatOrS(althOugh if yOu ariVc

COaSt and in the Strait betWeCn COralC,0

during a quiet patch they will happlly take

and Lanzarote,the lEstrecho de la lBocaina,

your nloney).IEven ringing ahead can be a waste oftilne.SO,ifyOu don't corne with a package,cOme prepared to rnovc on to,say, Puclllo dcl Rosario until you can Organise something. ″οたノCο ″α′ σο(奮 928535246),Cane

´ are ideal fOr windsuring. 「 he ｀ vientura Windsor school(● 928866295)is one of severalin the area ifyOu are a beginner―

Or

you canjust hire the gea.Itis on the beach behind the ApaltarnentOs Hopalco.

Surfing COrralC,O iS a pOpular base for surfers.If yOu need equipment, lessons or advice on where tO getthe best breaks,yOu could try Natural Surf(● 928535706), one of three surf schools in the tOwn, at Calle del Acorattdo Espaia 10. Glass‐ Bo■ om

BOaヽ

de Co16n 12,is rightin the hea■ ofthc tovvn and has spaciOus singles/doubles/triples fOr

2500/3500/5000 ptas.Most roorns overiOOk the little tOwn beach. If yOu want tO g。 Cheapet try ποs′α′ル6α ′力α′ ′ α″ (● 92886

6643),Cane de Gravina 32,which has basic(and noisy)digs for 2000/3500,as. Both are onen fbll.

Ylou can lTluck

arOund in thC E′ ν i″ ο″″ ,a giaSS‐ bO■ Om boat.I)ay cruiscs to and arOund the lsia dc ′ LObOS With lunCh thro、 、 n in cost 4500 ptas

И′α′″″

rο s

7レ ″,α (●

928535020),

`″ Avcnida del(3eneral Franco 58,has basic

apartmcnts for 5000 ptas. The main problem is nOise cOming'om the bars

(■ om ll am to S.30 pm).One‐ hour tours cost 1700 ptas,or you can siinply use the

do、vnstairs.

bOat tO get aCrOSs to the isiet for 1300 ptas return. For this iatter Operation, depall:ure

`″ 866315),Avenida del General Franco s/n, haS apa■ ments for hvo■ om 6000 ptas to

iS at 10 am and the rcturn trip at 4 1)m. ｀ lou can get tickets f10nl the booth at Calle ビ

ccssing thc town centre, but far cnough

И′α′rα ″

′ οs Cο ″ ″′ σο βω σЙ (宙 928

7000 ptas.´ 「 hc pOsition is handy for ac‐

del All■ irante Carrero Blanco Or at the

away notto be disturbed by the wh00ps Of

port.

the partying. 〃0た ′R′ ″Pα ′ αιι乃1′ sお ′ αs(管

At the port yOu wi11 ■nd alternative vesseis.Thc Pο s`f′ ο,,does a si:nple rcmrn

9285357

00;fax 928 53 58 58),Avenida de las

trip to lsia de Lobos fbr 1000 ptas,and the

Grandes Playas,is a luxury seaside fOrtress

glass‐ bottorn

on the cdge of the dunes. Singles cost

catamaran C′ ′ メ α C″ ″z does

156 The North― Corale」 。

16,100 ptas inc!uding half board, while doubles with ocean vicws and half board corne in at 19,720 ptas pcr pcrson.

Bus The No 6 bus runs regularly,om Cor‐ ralciO's bus station to Pue■ o del Rosario. ´ I・

Places to Eat Among thc waterside etteries and bars in the town centrc,the lcast preposscssing is pOtentia‖ y the beSt.The Cο ′ α″α ″ Pascα dο as,the local■ shcllnen's hangout, prepares“g00d ish rnains for up to 1300 ptas.

If you want to try go■ o fo‖ owed by a

ng There&Away

Ge

he trip takcs 45 mil■ utes and costs 350

ptas.You can also pick up the bus by the last Minitren stOp and at the liotel Riu Palacc´ res lsias. I｀

The No 8 bus hcads west to EI Cotillo a La 01iva)s

(

times a dり (40 minutes;

320 ptas).

Car&Moto『 bike

The FVll leads past thc

nins `″ into Plaza Chica.Thcsc items and a

Grandes Playas and Corral● o's dunes to Pucno dcl Rosario, 缶om whcrc thc FV-2 prOceeds right down the coast to Morro

beer wili set you back 1800 ptas.

Jable.

plate Of Cabrit。 (kid mCat),head fOr E′ a`r)`rfσ 。,whcrc calle de la lglcsia R′ ′ :ε

′ ′ α,Pο εο ιο , Avenida del The,Pα ″″′

The coast road west to EI Cotillo is un―

`ο General Franco 16, is great for gril:s― a

scaled but generally passable for normal

hCal y T― bOne(nO mad COW diSeaSe here) costs 1800 ptas. For a change,the lndian lood at」 RI′ sra“ ― ′ α″″ Sαgα ″,Ca‖ e dc Lcpanto 25,isn't bad.

cars.´

α″r′ R`s′α〃″

ИI`χ ,in 7レχ」

the gaudy yellow shOpping centrc on thc corner of Avcnida del(1)eneral Franco and Calle de la Anguila, is another option.

he only othcr direction you can head is directly south for La(Dliva. I｀

Re″ ra′ There are occans ofcar rental com― panics here.Cicar(● 928866413),in the Ccntro Comercial Ati`ntico on Avenida dcI ([〕

eneral Franco,is perfectly reliable.

If yOu want only two motoriscd lⅣ heels,

For a civilised cup ofcofllce or breakfast,

onc option is Mal Fun Club(1,9285351

C″υd′ И′″α,Cane de Juan de Austria 27,

52),Avenida de Juan Carios I,opposite the bus smtion. Scooters stanl at 2900 ptas a

hits the spot.

day,whne a Kawasaki KLR 650 costs 8400 ´

Entenainrrtent

ptas. rhe price includes third party insur‐

Finding a drink shouldn't pose too nluch

ance`lnd a hcl.lct.´「 hcy have another ofnce

of a problenl.I〕 ars,1lke the popularく )ink,

(●

take up much of the Centro Comercial

Franco 50;also on the same road is a Cespa

Atl`ntico,on Avenida del General Franco, as well as the bright yellow centre nlnhcr down the road, on the corner(of Calle de

24‐ hour service station.

la Anguna.

tiines a day lor Playa lBlanca in lLanzarote. ´ he trip takcs about an hour and tickcts cost

For a rclaxed cochailjust out ofearshot

928867541)at Avenida del General

Sea Lincas Fred Olsen fetTies icave four I｀

1800 ptas. Otherwise, hop onto one of

of the inain hurly‐ burly,Casablanca,Callc de IP6rez(〕 ald6s,is pcrfect.For a late night

Naviera Anmas'■ ve boas,lor which tickets

tipple(until about 3 am), the Bluc Rock

cost 1700 ptas.

Pub, at the no■ hern end of the pedestri‐

Atthe l′ anzarote end,Fred(Dlsen puts on a nree connecting bus as far as Pucno del

anised part of(〕 alle de la lgicsia rnakes a refreshing alternative to the rowdicr `real British pubs'. Still, if you、 vant onc of the la■ er,you

could doヽ″orse than AJ's English Bar,on the corncr of Calle del Acorazado Espaia and Calle de Juan Scbasti`n lEIcano.

Carinen and Lanzarote's airpoln forits 9 am and 5 pnl sein′ ices.1ヽlavicra Armas has one

stopping at Pucno dcl Cannen,Arrecife and cOsta llcguise,but only if you are on the 6 pin fcrry.・ 「 he fiee buses operate in the other direction too.

The North― Isia de Lobos 157

Getting Around

(:〕

Minitren Ylou know thOse irritating li"le trains which onien transP。 ■ sheepishly grin_

largely ignored since thc cOnquest。 「 he ex‐ ceptiOns tO the rule were cut― throat pirates

ning tOurists arOund resorts and theme parks'Weli there's one in(ColTale」 。and,if

who occasionally sought t。 land here,and the slowly growing invasiOn Of less vio‐ lently‐ nlinded sun_seekers ,who prize the

you can siⅣ allow your pride,it■ light even corne in handy.

It runs evcry half hour fion1 9 am to ll.30 pn1 6rorn Avcnida del(〕 eneral Franco ―taking in the port,bus statiOn and nlost of

uanche Fuerteventura,EI Cotillo has been I｀

arca's unaffiected peacefuiness.・ hc devel‐ 「

opers have so far iargely lel: this sinall ishing village on Fucncventura's north‐ wcste口 l coast alone, but lor how iong?

the apartments atthc north end Ofthe dunes ―in its circuit ofthe town.A ride costs 150

Fingers crossed.

ptas.

bCtter beaCheS StretCh Out SOuth Of tOWn), the only Object Of note is the tubby litle

Apart iom the delights of thc sea(the

Taxi A taxi■ om the town ccntre to the

Fona:eza del Tost6n. Built in 1797 to

beachcs will cost about 500 ptas.

ward ofF pirates Of all persuasions, it now seerns oddly out of place, sitting is01ated above the rnodest cliffs south of the port.

Bicyc:e Ylou can rent bikcs ttonl scveral

places. Mountain bikes are available at Vulcano Biking(‐ 928535706),Ca‖ c del Acorazado Espaia 10.

:SLA DE LOBOS The bare 4.4 sq kn1 0f this islet take their

The beaches between EI Cotillo and(Cor_ ralejo arc generally sl■ all and pebbly. Experienced surfiers will wantto make for a

spot known as Bubbles.Waves brcak over recfand rocks,and plenty Ofcasualtics can be sccn walking thc streets ofE〕 1(〔 〕 otillo and

namc nrom the seawolves(ぁ ら。s〃 α″レ。s) which iOng called it hOme.They were in ねCt mOnk SealS(力 εαS″ ο〃 haVe long since disappeared.Plans tO`),WhiCh reintroduce

EI Cotillo reinains a laid― back and compar―

them lronl Mauretania have been put on ice

ativcly undeve10ped haven. .There arc

because seal nurnbers tllere are alsO(On the decline.

sevcral groups of apartrnents tO chOOse

COraleiO. Places to Stay

anlived therc's little to do but go fOr a quick

frOrn,and more are being built.liopenully thcy wOn't g0 0verboard. И′α′′ α″′″わs βα″P′の′ α (● 9285385 22),in the ccntre OfthetOwn at Cane de San

walk,put in an order fOr lunch atthe quay‐ SidC ο力″′ ′g“ ′ ′ ο (kiOSk;yOu muSt iCt them

ceptablc.Doubles cost 5500 ptas.

lunCh there)and head fOr the pleaSant li"le

beaches are the И′″′ α″

lYlou can go on an excursion to lsia de Lobos lrorn(〕 orrale」 0,and once you have

know 、vhen you arrive if yOu intend to bcach. It is possible tO canlp herc,but irst you

nCCd a penΥlit fronl the C)icina de Medio

Ambiente(● 928852038),Cane del PrO― fessor Juan TadeO cabrera 10,in Puerto del Rosarlo.

For dctails on how tO get here, see the COFalttO SeCtiOn abOVe.

EL COTILLO (:)ncc the seat of po、 ver Of thc tribal chiefs

of Maxorata, the nOrthern kingdonl of

Pedro 12, is pretty basic but pcrfectly ac_ CIoser to the castil10 and tO the sOuther:1 (●

′ οS J″ α″β′″F′ι z

`″ 928538503),a Cane del Calet6n 10.

They stand out likc a sore thumb,but thc apaninents are spOtlessly clean and have ´ 「 V and phone.´ Fhey stan at 6500 ptas. ヽ4ore resorら ′is the comparatively large Иρα′rα 初lι ″′ οs cbr″ ′ ο ιαgο s cOmplex

('928908‐ 649686;fax 928 85 20 99).It is a lo、 v‐ level developmcnt about 2knl north Of the town in the satellitc IJrbanizaci6n Los Lagos.´ 「 he arca is still a bit of a mess,

with din tracks fOr rOads;there's certainly an air ofhasty to、 vn planning、 vith an eye tO

158 The Centre― Betancuria

the quick tourist buck. For ali that, the

living quaners and a chapel built.・

apart:Tlents are colTlfortable and not a bad choice at 6000 ptas.

nascent settlernent he gave his own nanle, which with time was corupted to Betancu―

Ilo this

ria(or thc Villa de Santa Marfa de P:aces to Eat

BetanCuria in the uneXpurgated VerSiOn).In

The most plcasant spot to eat and drink is the R′ s′α″′ α″′ θ ια レ acα ι。 , presided `α over by a sulTeal, rnodel c。、 v, n。 。dlit in

the course of the century Franciscan i「 iars FnOVed in and eXpanded the tOヽ Vn,WhiCh re‐ ・ Inained the isiand capitai unti1 1834. 「 he

lurid bluc at night,right on the li■ le harbour in the rniddie ofto、 vn.・ 「 hey serve up decent l。 。 d all day nrorn n。 。nt。 lo prn,including

plzzas.

A couple of lgood littlc places at thc SOuthCrn end Ofthe Village(Within Sight Of thc castin。 ),are R`s′ α ″ α″rι ιos cヵ αε。″′s “ latter at(Calle de and (3asa C力 α″ο, the Fueinlcventura l.´ 「 hey both serve up stan‐

dard ish and meat dishes which wili sct

isiand's proximity to the No■ hA■ ican coast made it easy prey for Moroccan and European piratcs who,on nulmerous occa― SiOnS,managCd tO de″ BetanCuria'S natuml nlountain dencnces and sack it.´ ucked pret_ tily into the protective folds of the basalt hilis,the to、 vn is now llorne to fe、ver than I｀

600 people.

Things to See

you back about 2000 ptas a head(including

lf yOu apprOach l10m the nOmh,yOur gaze

a SidC diSh and Wine).

will bc drawn down to the left,wherc ruins ofthe isiand's first nl(onastery,built by the

Ge

ng There&Away

´

Franciscans, stand empty but proud. 「 he

Bus No 7 for Pucno del Rosario(500 ptas)

centre ofthe settlemcnt is watched￢

leaves at 6.45 am, noon and 5 pm. No 8 1eavesお r Corraleio(320 ptas)sevcn times

Piratcs had destroyed its(]othic predecessor

a day.The dilt road around the coastto Cor‐ rale」

。 is norrllally passable for ordinary

over by the 17th‐ century igiesia de lSantl Maria.

in 1593.A shon walk a'way is the Museo deメヽ rte Sacro.This contains a mixed bag

cars.

of valuable religious art, including paint‐

The Centre

covered by one 100 ptas ticket;the custodi‐ an races back and fo1lth to opcn the church and nlusco alternately every halfhour fiorn

The central chunk of Fuerteventura offers

sorne of the rnost varied countryside a

vaguc interest also is the Casa Museo de Betancuria,just on the cast bank of what

dcselllisiand can inanage.´ 「 he rnountains of

would be the village streanl ifany water ran

ings,gold and silvenvare.Entry to both is

10 am to S prn, daily cxcept Sunday.()f

thc I)arque Natural dc lBctancuria are sliced in their southem rcachcs by a palm‐ studded ravine starting atヽ iega del R`o dc Palinas.

Whilc thc wcst and cast coasts are largely rocky clifis intersperscd with small black‐

sand beaches and ishing hamlets, the central, coppcr‐ colourcd plains around Antigua are dotted by old

、 vindinills in various states of rcpair and dating back a

in it. It houscs a rnodest collcction of uanchc artcfacts,and is Opcn・ruesday tO

([〕

Saturday'om 10 am to 5 pm and Sunday ,om 10 am to 2 pm.Entry is 100 ptas.

If you havc 800 ptas to burn,you can enter the Restaurante Casa de Santa Maria's

,in which pottcry and weaving workshops havc bccn sct up;thc pricc in‐ thenlc sho,v′

cludcs a bit of winc and chccsc tasting.

couple of centuries.

BETANCUR:A Jcan dc B6thencourt thought this the ideal

spot to set up house in 1405, so he had

Special Event C)n 14 July,to、 vnspcoplc celebrate the Dfa

de San 13uenaventura, patron saint of tlle town,a nesta dating to 1456.

The Centre― Around Betancuria 159

AROUND BETANCUR:A A couplc ofki10rnetrcs north ofBctancuria,

the Mirador de Moro Velosa o詭

rs mes‐

merising vic、 vs across tlle isiand's weird

and disconsolate moonscape.「 Fhe FV‐ 30 highway twists its way n。 ■h through the barcly perceptible settlements of Valle de Santa ln6s and Iし os Llanos de la Concepci6n bcbre running into thc FV?0,just sho■ of the village ofCasilias del Angel.Here,the petite lgiesia de lSanta Ana contains an 1 8th― century wooden carving of St Anne. For a hear,meal ofσ αb′ ブ ゎ (gOat me誠 ,an

isiand speciality for reasOns which have

prObably beCOme apparent by nOW),try (】α sα ′ ′ ο,along thc nlain road at the west 'lι cnd ofthe town. HCading SOuthお r Pttara,yOu S00n hit l口

lega de:RIo de lPaimas.As you proceed,

the reason for tlle name becOrnes clear,as the road follows the cOurse Of a near dry

watercourse, still wet enOugh be10w thc surface to keep a stand of palins alive.

ANTIGUA

01d rn‖ l east of Betancuria

・

his is one ofthc bigger iniand villages,but thcrc is not nluch to dc)cxcept rnake a quick I｀

visit to the 1 8th‐

Places to Eat

century church.

About 2km north oftown isthe Antiguo

There is no doubtthatthe Rι

Moiino,a f1lly restOred windmill open to

′

the public daily'ol■

s′ α ″″ α″′ `Casα Ofthe tOurist cOrnplex oppositc the inain po■ al ofthe church,wins ￨′

Sα ″′ αiィα″fα ,pan

10 aln to 6 pm.

hands down on atnlosphcre.Mains cost up

′ he pizzcria across the rOad 6rOrn the church is handy for a snack,Or yOu cOuld

to 1900 ptas.

try the restaurant next door to the Antiguo

′ hc food at the inconspicuOus Ras′ α ― ″α″た ラ タ′ ′ α″ , Calle del Presidente“ の'α ′ HOrmiga S/n(江 the SOuthern eXit OftOWn), I・

I｀

Mollllo for a classier ineal. The lヽ Io l bus passes

route bet、 veen

leaves little to be envicd by its classier cOrn―

Morro Jable.

petitor,and will dO halfthe dalllage to your pursc.

AROUND ANT:GUA

Gemng There&Away Bus No 2 passes throutt here twice a dり 。n itS way beヽveen Pue■ o del Rosario(400

ptas)and Vcga del R`o dc Palmas(a short diStanCe SOuth). The FV‐ 30 road leads no■ h to Los Llanos

thrOugh here en

Pueno del Rosario and

La Ampuyenta

・ 「 hc 17th‐ century Ernlita de lSan Pedro

de AIcantara rnakes a quick stop here wo■ hwhile if yOu have yOur Own wheeis and Can moVe On lreely.The erinita(Chapel) is suiTounded by a stOut, prOtective wall built by Frenchう ronl the Nornlandy area.

dc la(〕 oncepci6n,after which it fOrks east

for Puerto del Rosario and nOrth 10r Cor― rallo via La 01iva.

Tiscamanita Nine krn south of Antigua on the road to

160 The CentF― Tuineje Tuinele,the Windmill‐ ObSeSSed might like

so as you wend your way through this spec‐

to call in atthis tiny hanllet where you can

tacularly harsh terrain.

ViSit a WOrking"StOrd mill(and See What a hard grind it all WaS)at the Windmill ln‐ terpretatiOn centre.´ r.he centre Opens daily

nrom 10 anlto 6 prn.

Ajuy&Pueito de la Pena A9km side trip nrom Pttara(there are no buSeS)Wll See yOu heading nOnh‐ west tO Ajuy and thc vi“ ually contiguous Puerto de

la Pcia.Adishcvcllcd ishing sc■ lernent,its

Although sornething of a crossroads in the ・ interioL 「 uine」 C has no particular attrac‐ tions.The No l bus callsin here.The No ll bus to La Lalita on the coast● kes about

black‐ sand beach rilakes a change fl・ onl its

half an hout travelling iniand via El

the day's catch.

． 一 ● ｒ    ● ■● ●

臣 コ〓難 撥難詳 Ｌｏ■２一

TUINEJE

(E;ard6n;it runs only ll、

vicc daily,Monday to

Saturdり 。Thc No 13■ om Pttara cans in herc on its way to Gran Taralal and La Lalita

illustrious golden neighbours to the south in

the Jandfa peninsula.The strand is fronted ing up by a couple of sirnple eateries scl口 ′

CALETA DE FuSTE (:)fthc rnain reso■ s on the island,this is the rilost convenient for the airIX)it but the least a■ raCtiVe.The

PAJARA

Squat litle rOund tOWer(hy‐

pcrbolica‖ y known tt EI C6ti‖ o)has been

What inakes thc 17th‐ century igiesia de

turned into an appendage of the iBarce16

Nuestra lSenora de la Regia unique in the isiands arc tllc´ ′ ′ αb′ οs bchind the altar

Club EllCastillo bungalow colllplex and thc beach,whilc pcrficctly pleasant,is a poorre‐

ght (StiCk 100 ptaS in thC maChine On the shortly aiter you cntcr thc church to light

lation comparcd with wh江 's on omer at Coral● o,JandFa and evcn EI Cotillo.

them up).They are an exainple of innu_ ences■ owing back'om Latin America― in this casc Mclxico.()utside, the decoration above the l■ ain portal is said to bc ofAztec inspiration.

RiJlt nextto the church you can cat wen 昴 atthe C`″ ′ οC″ ′ ′ ″″ α′ .Across thc Tuine」 e

α″″ α″′ ′ια′ ′dα ,a more

Activities Diving Aparti鮨 olTl lying on the beach and splashing about in the cainl waters of the vith Dressel inlet, you could go diving 、

Divers Club(● 928163554),based at the li■ le

port.A sing!e divc costs 3825 ptas,

plcasant establishment,although thc 100d

plus 850 ptas for fbll equiprnent hire.They also do beginners courses for PAI)I certi6.

and priccs are rnuch of a rnuchness_

cation.

TWO buSCS a day COnneCt Pttara With Mloro Jable(Nos 4&9);and another two

VVindsurfing You can learn to windsurf

road is thc Ras′

lο

run to Gran Tar¨ land onto La Lalita oo

13).Thc Moro Jablc scⅣ iccs stop all ovcr thc place and can take up to lン ちhours.Thc

here.Ask at thc rcccption of the Barce16 Club EI Castillo complcx,by the pon.

The bus ca‖ s in at Tuineje and the beach

Mountain Biking AIso atthe po■ ,you can enquire about mountain bike hire at the

Lalita.

O■ cina del Puerto.1‐lire costs 1000 ptas a day or 4500 ptas for a week.

AROUND PAJARA

P:aces to Stay&Eat

Thc drive directly north towards Betancuria is onc ofthc rnost spcctacular routes on the

As with ali the reso■ s,the problcm hcrc is that most places ■1l v■ th package guests and some deal only with tour operators. β″″gα ′ οws Bο αοみSο ′(● 928163001), in the E〕 I Castillo area across the FV l

trip to Gran Tarttal takes about 30 minutes.

villages between Gran ・raraJal and La

isiand.While it is fairto say that Fucrteven― tura is quite flat when cornpared to the other isiands to the、 vest,you would nevcr think

OAMIEN SIMONIS

Isia de Tenerife Tlop:Playa de las Tieresitas,San Andres Bottorn lefti Catching the rays at Lago Martianez,Puerto de la Cruz

Bottom right:Fisherrnan,Puerto de la Cruz

isia de Tienerife

:lglesia de la Concepci6n,La(0,「 otava Tlop Right:Roque Cinchado,rennains of an eroded volcanic dyke,atthe base of Pico del Teide Bottom:Balconies on h″ o rnodern houses bu‖ tin Cananes style,Puerto de la Cruz Tlop Le■

Peninsula de Jandfa― La Pared 161

(about a 15-minute walk nrom thc beach)

La Laliね

haS bungaloWs for two at 5500 1ptas.

1｀

ThC′ E′ Mと プqソ ('928163353), `′ Tercera `0′ Avenida,Urbanizaci6n Tindaya,is a comfortable OptiOn, although the arca (abOut a 10‐ minute Walk to the beach)loOkS like a half‐ ■nished cOnstrllction site― that

may change of course! Rooms cost 5500/ 8300 ptas.The restaurant is mid‐ priced,b腱 offiers a good rangc Of Spanish and intcrna‐ tional cuisine, including lobster thcnnidOr

and pacna(2400 pLs fOrtwo). If only because it is right on the bcach, 3α ″ Ca′δC′ ″ bE′ Cas″〃ο(●

928163100)

his unimpressive little nshing village pre_

SCnts yet another faintly grubby looking blaCk‐ sand and pebblc bcach.At the south‐ ern cxit ofthe town is one OfthOse tlleme park arrangernents which have so utterly overrun Fuerteventura's big sister isiand, Gran Canarla.

At Zoo Parque de los(CalTle::os yOu Can Wander arOund the little Z00 (900 ptaS),pOpulated by mOnkeys,cxotic birds and other unお ■unates andOr join a half hour carnel trck lor 1000 ptas.・

「 hc z00 is

Open dally'om 9 am to 5 pm.Bus Nos

is tOp valuc here with bungalows for two

l and 4 stop Only at the highway exit to

starting at 7300 ptas.

town,■ om where it's a sh。 ■ walk south tO the CaFnelS.

AROUND CALETA DE FuSTE Pozo Negro AtlCSS than 10km South of([)alcta dc Fuste, this tiny ■shing backwater is light years

Peninsula de Jandia

aWay'om the resort.A couple of ram_ shackle restaurants frOnt the black‐ sand

Most of the peninsula is protectcd by its

beaCh(henCC the name).

Status as thc Parquc Natural de Jandia.´

GRAN TARAJAL&SOuTH‐ EAST

BEACHES

・ 「 he grcy‐ marOOn bcach gives iocals in this surprisingly big town thcir own place to

cnjoy the Ocean,butお r the Outsidcr the only a■ raction is being in a rcal Canaries town and getting away llOnl the rarened at_

inosphcrc Of the resOrts_an interesting

south‐

「 he west is a canvas Of craggy hills and

bald plains ieading to clif1ls west of Mol■ o

Jable.Much ofthe restisinade up Ofdunes, scrub and beaches.

Sorncwhere along this peninsula, thcy Say,(]ernlan subinarine crews used to hole up OccasiOnally during wwII. TriOu tllink these beaches are paradise nOw ― just iinagine them with nOt a singlc tOurist,not

distractiOn but nO rnatch for the beaches Of the Jan(lfa peninsula tO the south.′ hcre are

your mates■ Om thc U‐ boat!

two daily buses(No 13)inland to Pttara ・ fionl Monday to Saturday. 「 he trip takcs

According to other stOries,Nazl ofncials passed through hcrc anerthe warto pick up

I｀

about 30 minutes.

one little apartment block, only you and

false papcrs belore heading On tO South ArneriCa.()ne version has hordes of Nazi

Giniginamar&Taraialeio

gold buried here tO。

!

South of Gran Taraial,thcse two quiet ishing harnlets gO about thcir business

LA PARED

largCly undiSturbed by tOuriStS.・

If on occasion iyou'vc had the feeling that

grey bcaches inakc a p00r shO、 v cOmparcd 、 vhite cOusins fulther south― but at least they're nOt crowded. T'he lヽ I。 l bus between Pue■ o del Rosario

you've bccn dropped into lヽ Io■ h Anlica, it probably wOn't cOme 11luch strongcr than v`hen you clatter intO this tOwn_planner's nightmare.

and MIorro Jable stops tt T:vajaleiO,but not in Giniginamι u「.The saine goes fOr the N0

Here OnCe began a Crude Sbne Wall(′ α αめ which marked ofF the boundalγ ′α″

「 he briCt

with thcir brilliant

4■ om Ptta曖

.

bct、 veen

the rival〈

[〕

uanche ncfdorlls of

162 Peninsula de Jandia― Costa Calina

MaxOrata and Jandfa.Nothing of the wall

PLAMA DE SOTAVENTO DE JAND:A

renlains,and late 20th‐ century civilisation has arrived with a distinct iack of style.A dirt track lcads offthc highway to a boule―

The naine rctrs to the line of beachcs that stretch along the south coast of the pcnin― sula. This is not Suring territOry, but fOr

vard lincd with trccs, a roundabout of

swimming and sun‐ bathing this strand is the most beautinul in the isiands(the dunes Of COrralC」 O run a C10SC SCCOnd).There'S nOta

exaggerated proponions and then a nalrow‐ cr road leading into what seerns likc an utcrly dcsc■ led Thirdヽ νlorid rcso■ .′ 「 herc's nothing hcre but an cxpcnsive hotel and a growing scab ofresott bungalows. 92854 Roolns at the〃 οた′Rの ノG“ レ `(● 16150 9004;fax 928 54 91 04)cost io■

lot more to be said about this coastal par‐

adise-lnilcs and iniles of ine white sand which creeps its way ainlost imperceptibly intO the turquoise expanse ofthe Atiantic. various drivcable trails icad down offthe

ｕｏ■９■

ptas to 7350 ptas per person with halfboard, although you will probably be quoted prices in deutschrnarks.

FV‐ 2 highway to vantage points off the beach― its generous expanses mean you

cOnling back dOwn tO canh a little, α Pa″ グ (SignpOSted), R`s″ ″″α″′ ι3α 力″ ′

tranquil plot lor yoursell

shOuld have little trouble inding a nicc

down by a Юcky beach,is not a bad plκ e

MORRO JABLE α′ ′ ο″ ・ ρOI′ ″′

fOr ish― a meal wili cost about 1700 ptas

θθ

Mlo"o Jable`θis the southernmost town on

a head.

Fueneventura, on the castern side of the

The No 9 bus between Pttara and MIo"o

Peninsula de Jandia.

Jable passes through here.

COSTA CALMA

information

This is a`「 Fidy′Ilown'version of C,aleta de

Tourist ofrice Thc oncina de Turism。

Fuste.´ 「 he beach is truly desirable and the

(●

developinents are in general inore tasteful. In all,it's a superior resort,but,once again, lacks a soul; its whole existence is duc to

Cial de Jandia(100k fOr the big ShOpping Centre sign)on Avenida del Saladar

tourisnl.

mOney Therc are several banks with ATMs On and nearく allc dc Nuestra Seiora del

Yiou'1lind a CEM 24‐ hour clinic(● 928 875300)at the south end of the resott in

the Centro Comercial Botinico,Local 17, Avenida de Jahn Reisen s/n.

Piaces to Slay&Eat И′α′た″ ″ι″ゎsiイ α′ ァッ′″′(●

928540776)is in the Centro Coiner‐

:〕

nen.13anco dc Santandct on thc corner ofAlvcnida de Jandfa isjust one.Bank lntct (:〕

al■

(Elalle de Nuestra Seiora del(E〕 an.nen 9,rep‐ resents the l■ ′ estern【 Jnion money transfer

crowd for those moments of iscal failure.

928547092)

has selicontained apa■mcnts for two to

Post l& Communications The central

three people nron1 8000 ptas to 16,000 ptas. They cater above all,1lke inany places hcre, to(3ernlan packagc tourists.

Jandfa.′ 「 hcre's also a srnall phonc ofice at

gα あws Bα 力″ Ca′″α (● 3″ ″

COrTeOs y ・Ile16grafos is on Avenida de calle de lヽ luestra SciOra del Carlncn 12.

´

9285471

I｀

hc lpostcodc for Morro Jablc is 35625.

58)has a series ofpre"y bungalowslocttcd

Travei Agents Several agents operate in Morro Jable,where you can“ ok lnights as well as trry and jetfOil tickcts.Halc6n

within a spit ofthe beach.They start at 8000 ptas for up to threc occupants. a Cα ″α′ ′ ο,inthe Centro Com― 沢ιsrα ″″ α″′

ercial Costa Calma, docs Canarian

Viajes,Calle de Nuestra Seiora del Carmen

specialities. Another dccent restaurant in α″′ ′И″ α the sarne cOmplcx is R`srα ″ `″ 114ou'll also ind a couple of bars“there.

29,is reliable.

.

Medicai Services'There arc scvcral inter‐

Peninsula de Jandfa一 Morro Jable 163

PLACES TO STAV 2 Apartamontos Bal"r

9 PensiOn Omahy 14 Apanamonos Soto 18 Holol RIo Caly,s。

Jable

PLACES TO EAT 8 Restauranto Jandぬ ,3 ROStau腱 o Pom“ ３４５７ ０ ” ２ ５ ６ ７ ”¨１２” １ ２ １ １ １ １

・

,、 3絆

San“ rmd6n

“

Ha!c6n V alos

Banklnter a we● Om uniOn Ban∞ do Sanね ndor COr700S y Td16grafos

Taxl Rank Tladhe Bus Teminus

CEM

Civil

`e la Cebada

ArLANTIC OCEAN

Pゼ

リ●●e′

れ。 ■ト

national clinics around Morro Jable,cspe_

Avenida del Saladar.A single dive will cOst

cially along Avenida del Saladar. CI]M (● 928540333),on Playa del Matorral,is

you 4000 ptas,but you gct be■

open 24 hours.

ptaS).′ heSe prices rise respectively to 5000

er valuc if

yOu take a package(10 dives cost 33,200 I｀

ptas and 41,500 ptas if you have to hirc all

E:Tlergency The POlicfa Local(‐ 92854 1022)arc at Cane dcl Hibisco l,ald the Cuardia Civil(● 062)are just offAvenida de Jandfa.

Things to See&Do Beaches l｀ he beaches 、 vhich stretch around to thc east iヒ om MolTo Jable are ine, and yOu can rent pedalos and Other water‐ bornc vehicles. As noted above, 110wever, the pick of the beaches lie

bctwcen Moro Jable and COsta Calma,and are really only accessible with sOme kind of tranSpO威 (■Om Car tO biCyCle).

the gear.They also do CMAS and FEDAS courscs for bcginners. OfF‐ Road

Driving Ylou can hirc quads,

which arc basically fOur‐ wheeled inotor‐

bikes with fat tyres capable Of tOoling arOund On the sand, fiom Canaria lD)rive

'928541584),a couple OfdOOrs、 vest Of Centro dc Buceo Felix.The problein with these things,and 4WE)s, is that a lot Of (●

peoplc bclt around thc beaches and dunes of Playa dc lBarloventO dc Jandfa― not a ve,y environinentally fi・ iendly activity.

Piaces to Slay Diving Ybu can organisc dives with the Centro de Buceo Felix(● 928541418),

ln the centre Ofthc tOu′ 1l there are a cOuple

ofwha migh be cheap OptiOns_there was

164 Peninsula de Jandfa― Around MolTo Jable

no sign of any life in either of thenl at thc tirnc of researching,but givcn that it ain't

Jandfa.Some ofthem caterto all,pes ald

vays easy to ind budget accornrnodation, it's wOnh bearing them in mind.P′ れsブ 0″ α″ (‐ 928541254)is■ Cane dc Max‐ `″

Alex Caf6 aim at a younger and ltter arriv‐

orata 6,and bcars no sign.Also in the centre

east along Aivenida dei Saladar.

age g・ Oups,but

al、

rα ″′ ″ゎs〃′ ′″ ″ (● are И′α″ ([〕

`el`zqucz Cabrcra 16. ″′ Notね r awり ,И OS Bα ′ ρα″α″θ ′ι″

928540670),Ca‖

c de las Pintadcras

s/n, has straightfolward apartrnents with cooker and phone.Apartrllents for two cost ′ α″θ″ゎs Sο ゎ (● 9285414 5000 ptas.И ρα′

19),Calle de Gambuesas s/n,is pretty

similar.

α″′″― A sli♪ t move up the ladder,И ′″′ ゎsИ あ ゎ (● 928541522),Avenida dcl `″ Faro, offcrs apaiments with kitchenctte, lounge roonl and phone for 6000 ptas.

Heading into the interstenar range,″ R′ ″C!α みν sο (■

ing crOwd.when they stan cIOsing,yOu could head for E)isco Planet House,a block

928541113),

alle dcl Scnadorヽ

(●

others,such as Surflnn and

ι′ 。′

928540026;ぬ x9285407

Ge

ng There a Away

Bus Thc Tiadhe bus tcnninus is just off

Calle de Gambuesas in thc town ccntre (100k fOr the Supell■ lCrCadO Padilla Sign)・

The irst bus(linc No l)for Puctto del Rosario leaves at 6 anl and the last at 7 pm. ′ 「 he trip takeS abOut tWO hOurS(unleSS yOu getthe fast No 10 bus via the airpo貢 ).The

No 5 sewice to Costa Calina runs iequent― ly.The No 9 to Pttara mnstwice a day,and the No 4 to the same destin江 lon just once.

sea Trasmcditcrranea jetbils leavc most days for Las Pahnas de Gran Canaria.They

30),Carretera General dc Moro Jablc s/n, has roorns for 12,500 ptas per person in―

take l%hours and cost 5600 ptas.Othcr―

cluding breakfast and all the rnod cons you are likely to nced.

ptas.Itleaves at 7 pin and takes threc hours.

wise,take the Naviera Annas ferry for 3100 YOu Can get tiCkCtS atthe pOrt(lkm WeSt Of the tOWn CCntre)Or at traVel agentS・

Places to Eat

′

Getting Around

hc usual resoll:`intenlational cuisinc'and fast food can be had at innurnerable places

Taxi There is a rank in the town centre just

spread among the apartinents,condos and

offAvenida de Jandfa.

I・

shopping centrcs alongAvenida dei Saladar Something a little more interesting and α″′ σ 、 vith s。 lid spanish f00d is Rι srα ″ “ Pο sada Sα ″βο″ ο″d♭ ″,Plazoleta de Cirilo L61梵 z.A full meal with wine win cost you

abut 2500 ptas.The rnain problern about

AROUND MORRO JABLE Punta de JandFa Sixtccn klloinetres of graded but llnscaled

road winds out along the southern reachcs ofthe peninsula to a lone lighthouse.

The tiny, bedraggled ishing settlement

thiS plaCe(if yOu haVen't nOtiCCd yCt), iS

of Puel■ o dela Cruz,a couple of kiloinetres

that it is trying to look like a stearnshiI)・

behind San iBorond6n rcstaurant serve

ShOrt(CaSt)。 f the lighthOuSC,SCCmS truly abandoncd.´ vo little restaurants,thc 71″ ―

avcragc food in seaslde surroundings.For

´ α′ α

A couple ofrestaurants on the waterlront

carthier anibience and largc scrvcs of1300d ″ α″′ ″aFα castilian c。 。king,try R`srα ″

`Jα Calie del Senador Velizqucz Cabrera 7.

I'、

′αα′Jα″グFα ,SerVe up thC 7′

`and P″ local catch to passing tourists unablc to

,

cOntain their curiosity about what the island's westernmost point looks like.

Ente"ainrnent

Cofete

For drinking, and relatcd activities, the

About 10knl along the saFnC rOad fiOrn

nlain sccnc ofthe action is along the l)cacll‐

Morro Jable,a turn‐ off leads no■ lh‐ cast to this, another tiny pcninsula village at the sOuthcrn extrcine ofthc Playa de 13arlovcn‐

lront part of the reso■ .Ac:ustcr of pubs is

conccntrated in tllc Centro Corncrcial de

Peninsula de Jandfa― :Playa de lBarlovento de JandFa 165

to de Jandfa.:Dirt"acks lead to this wind―

leading into the area―

whipped strand which are negotiable by

found a spot you like,re11:ain fi・ oni chop‐

foot or 4WI).:Food and drinks are available

ping up the dunes with your vehicle. ・I'his stretch of the coast can get Very

atiheR“ ″:″ :″ ″ cセル t.

PLAYA DE BARLOVENTO DE JANDiA Much wilder than thcir lec、 ard counter‐ parts,the long stretch of bcaches on the 1′

windward side of thc pcninsulaそ rc also

but once lyou've

windy_though the nying sand doesn't scem to detcr the nude ba ers,who ac as COmmOn aS the partly clothed varie,。 Care

must be taken when swinuning here:the wavcs and curents arc altoge■ er a dittr― cnt expe cnce ionl the llsually becallned

to safcly negotiate the various tracks

vvaters oll the other side ofthe isiand.

一 Ｏ Ｆ＞ じ 田 ﹁Ｃ 籠 澪↓ 田く 臨 Ｚ ↓Ｃ 力 ＞

harder to gct to.,1lou basically nccd a 4WI〕 )

Isia de Lanzarote H!GHLIGHTS

Covenng 846 sq kin,Lanzrotc isthe founh iargest and most nolnh‐ easterly of the Canary lslands. It mcasures only about

AT■ 4N‐ IC OCFAN

60knl nortllto south and a inere 21knl atits widctt point east to west.Itis k■ own asthe lsia de los lVlolcanes,with 300 cones pep‐

pered about it. The isiand's narne is

ヽチ

つ

T,り t′

'「 ■ 、

ftter、 vho landed on the isiand in the late

¨ ﹄

assumed to be a colTuption of I_′ an″ roto (or Lalcelotto)MaloceHo,■ c Cenoese sea‐ 13th or early 14th century.

″ater It hardly ever rains here,so all thc、 you use is desalinated sea water― ■ot thc tastiest stuff around,but better than clean―

‐

Iiaking a tour ofthe lava landscape」

ing yOur teeth with beer

Enioying a voicanic BBCI!unch atthe

conle to the island is that there is nothing hcre. ・ rue, it's a largely arid Place, but bizarrcly so and駅 :ES()()has declared the

Restaurante de:[)iab:o

The beaches and coves of Punta de!

I｀

Papagayo

entire isiand a Biosphere Reservc. Its

The o!d town of Tieguise, once the

iargely volcanic tetTain is quite unique,and thosc who take the tiinc to nlovc around the

island,away,onl the threc main reso■

of

Las Montanas del Fuego

The iininediate reaction of nlany who

is:and's capital

Visiting the bizarre and wonderful !andmarks created by C6sar Man que Exp:oring the spectacu!ar Cueva de

s,

will be pleasantly surprised by its stark, Weird but vcry real beauサ ・

lerdes !osヽ げ

1｀ he island's approach to tourisrn has in no small measure been shaped by the inspi‐

ration ofartist(〕 6sar Manrique,who died in

1992. Not only has hc lcft his personal raids by Moroccan pirates operating fiorn ports along thc nonh‐ west An「 ican coast,

stun.p on inany ofthe attractions around the

isiand, but his idcas continue to inform policy on tourisril developrnent. The near

barely 100knl away. 'The then‐ capital, Teguise,was iequently sacked and inany

absence ofhigh rises even in the three inain rcsort areas,and carcnll adhcrence to tadi_

inhabita

tional building styles in the interior, is iargely duc to Manriquc's vigilance,and to

s haulcd into captivity,later to bc

that of his succcssors. Locals and visitors alike should be grateful such care has been

he problent was especially grave during the 16th century,and thc Mo‐ roccans wcrcn't thc only source of grief. British buccmcers,likc Sir Waltcr Ralci帥

maintained.

Sir John Hawkins and John Poolc, also

sold as siaves.′

I・

,

visited the isiand,as did French bearers of

History

the skull and crossbones like Jean Florin

Lanzarote was the irst of the Clanary

and Pegleg le Clerc.

lsiands to fall to Jean de 136thencourt in 1402,Inarking the beginning ofthe Spanish

rnisc電 ソ ,piracy

conqucst.Along with Fucrtevcntura,Lan‐ zarote was particularly cxposed to n・ equent

ac sometimes cancd)tojust 300.

IB)y the rniddle of the 17th century, and cmigration had rcduccd the number Of COn● erOS(aS the iSlmderS

166

Isia de Lanzarote 167

L;la de ‐ ｀￨^leFma ‐

ノ ,

ヽ

＼

鶴鉗1隠 留 1賠轟警 ●0(ヽ 6● (Ordel hⅢm● 、

Roqtモ

A TLANTIC OCF‐ AN

A:"'‐ 0:k“ Al",“ C口

1

`“

× ◎卜

留阻ば r,`腱

▲

"′

0

Isla de Lanzarote

﹄       ．■

ゞ

G:dm2蝋 ,ユ

T"U“

ヽ 、 ′・′

4TLANrfC OCEAN 恥●18腱 n t hPagaソ 0

“

168 Arecife― History

The tTlassive and disastrous eruptions Of the 1730s ldestroyed sOrne Of the isI`■ ld's most fe■ ile land.Beyond the healtiand Of

Sea Ferries connect the isiand regularly with neighbouring iFucncvcntura,and less regularly with Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

the great uphcaval,thOugh,isianders weК to discover a rather ironic fact.・ rhe volcanic

Getting Around

rnix in the soil eventually prOved a highly t■ ile bedЮ Ckお r faming(pa Culalyお r WinC g・ aFЮ S),bringing Кlative prOsperity tO

the descendants of those whO had ned t。 Gran Can`uia in terrOr Of the lava nows. ′ Iloday,with tourisnl llourishing a10ngsidc the healthy if small agiculmmi secbち thc

Bus Arrecife Bus(●

92881 1456)pro―

vides the public transPOrt.

´

rhe service is

nrequent around Arrecife, especially tO

PuenO del carmen and cOsta

´

reguise. Fairly regular runs also connect with Playa

Blanca in thc south and such iniand towns as Tleguisc.()thel、 vise services arc nlinimal

isiand is horne to 77,200,plus of course all the hollday blow― ins who at any given time

or nonexistent.

can double the populatiOn.

Taxi As else、 vhere,you have the option of inoving arOund the isiand by taxi,but it is an expensive way Ofdoing things.′ he fare 「 命om Arrecifb south to Playa Blanca is 4300

Accommodation There are no ca:■ ping grounds or youth hostels on the isiand.

ptas.An excursion ofthe isiand is supposed

Most of the accornrnodation is rnadc up of apartinents and bungalows,and the nla‐

to cost 18,000 ptas plus 1460 ptas for cach hour ofwaiting tiinc.

jority of thesc are concentratcd in the reso‖ :s of Pue■ lo dei Cannen,Playa Blanca

Arrecife

and Costa Tleguise. ・ he prOblem, as in I｀

neighbouring Fuclnevent、 :ra,is that the bulk

of these deal with tour OperatOrs and are 。lten nlll.

。 α′ ′ ο″,3,9θ θ ρOρ ″′

日● く ヨ０一

Arrecife is not the mOst fascinating

Thc isiand's capital is not its bcst advelnise‐

capimlin■ e worid,butlone travcncrs with

mcnt.Aside■ om a couple Of forts,one

no bookings might consider it as a tempO_

cOnvened intO a stylish an gallery and

rary solution if nothing eise turns up. C)ther、′ ise,there is a small spatering Of

ofllers little of real interest. Its handfill of

alternatives at Other pOints around the coast,

hoteis and apartments nlay cOrnc in handy

rcstaurant, and a fairly decent beach, it

and a handf● l ofinland OptiOns.

Ce

for those withOut reselwations in thc resotts

― and to thc rnildly pcrvcrsc ainOng yOu it may even appeal sinlply bccause it's″ οr

ng There&Away

Air After Tenerit and Gran Canaria,Lan‐ zarote probably absorbs the third greatest intake oftourists arriving in the Canaries by ain There are soine inter_isiand nights t。 。 .

From Guasimeta airport(,92881 14

50),6km south‐ west ofArccit,Binter has six daily lnights to Las Palinas dc(Gran

Canaria(40 minutes;8550p● s)and thrcc to■ nerit No■ c(50 minutcs;10,550,ぉ ). Air Europa also■ ies occasionally to・ lener‐ 「 ifc.()ther、 ′ ise the trafnc is nlade up of

in

thc rcsorts.

History The single biggest factor behind AlTecife's

blandness is probably that it Only becarne capital in 1852. Until then′ 「 ieguise ruled

suprcmc― and thc architectural hcritage Of th■

town shows wha Arrccit misscd out

on by sirnply being a pOrt fOr the capital. In 1574,the Castillo de San Gabriel irst

soine regular nights(Air Europa and Spanair)■ Om the mainiand and Chaners

ヽ Vent up(it WaS SubSequently attaCked and rebunt)to protect the p。 ■ Its sister funher up the coast,thc(:〕 astil10 de San Jos6,、 vas

iom all over Europe.

raised in 1771.A scniblance of a to、 vn had

AlTecine― Orientation 169

only taken unccltain shape around the harbOur by the close ofthe 18tll century.As

its cOrnrnerce grew alld the threat of sea ralds drOpped ofF in the 19th century,Ar‐ recife thrived.The defensive imperatives for keeping the capital inland having inelted a、 vay,thc lllove to AlTccife of the isiand's adrllinistration was a foregone conclusion.

O

tclcphone ofices scattcred about the town. ()ne is at Avenida de lLc6n y(3astillo 53. Faxes can be sent frorn the post ofnce.'The postcode for A:Tecife is 35500.

Ifyou need to send or receive ernail,pop into lnternet ILanzarote,Avenida de Fred

01sen 6(the big building with thc Opel dealC“ hip).

Medical Services The Hospital General

enlhtion

928801636)is north― west ofthe town

llle sun‐ blanched capital ofthe isiand pre―

(奮

sents nO great navigational problerns.With the notable exccptions of the C,asti1lo dc san JOs`and pOn,everything of intcrest is 10Cated in a ti」 lt aCaな 。und the Centre・ If you arrive by bus,you'11■ nd yoursclf on the n01th― cast lnank of central Arrccine.

centre on the highway to San lBartolo口 n6. ヽlear the beach is the Centro Medico

Hcad right(wc盤 )along Vfa Medularto the ・o■ l where you follow big roundabout, ■

can be found at Avenida de Col1 5.For an

Avenida de Lc6n y(3astillo into the middle

Oftown.

Lansalud(書 92881 58 54),Calle del c,OrOncl I.Valis de la・ rorre 6.

Emergency The policc(● 928812350) arnbulance,callthe Cruz Rqa(Red CЮ

ss)

on ● 81 22 22. Otherwise, in case of medical einergenctt ty,928803060.

A serics ofapartrnents and hotels is on or

near Calic del Doctor Rafael Gonz41ez

Things to See

legrin.A trio of cheap places is clustered around Aivenida dc Lc6n y Castillo.

Castillo de San Gabriel T'he irst building of any.。 te in wha waslime morc man a

Maps The inap distributed by the tourist vhich is a good ofHce is quite adequate, 、

several occasions by MoЮ ccan cosairs and

lヽ

thing,since there appear to be no alterina― tives. Infol「 nation TOurist o"nce The()icina de lnfonnaci6n

Turfstica(●

landing point for the odd caravel■ om Spain,血 e dOuまtyお ■ Wお SOdy teSted On European pirates in the years alRler its con‐ strllction in 1574.

′ I10day it hOusesthc museo Arqueo16gi‐ CO,a SOrnCWhat erandi10quCnt narne fOr a modcst collection of a1llefacts lound on the

928811860)is in the Parquc

Municipal.It opens Monday to Friday frorn

9 am tO l pm and 4.30 to 7.30 pm(in surnrner fヤ

oin 9.30 anlto l.30 pm and 5.30

to 7.30 pm);Satuday■om 9am tol pm. Money Thcrc is no shortage of banks wi

ATMs ncarthe water'ont,such as the Caia

Rural de Canarias at Calle del Doctor

Rafael Gonz`lez Negrfn 2. American Express is represented by Viales lnsular

928813113),江 No 13 on the sanc

(● strcct.

POst a comrnunications The main cOreOs y Te16grafosis at Avenida del Gen‐ ・ I.here are a few

eralisi:no Franco 8.

DAMEN SIMONIS

cannOns at Casti‖ o de San Gabriel,one of Arrecife's nlost Striking iandrnarks

170 Arccit― Things tO See

The Life&Art of COsar Manrlque Some Lanzarotenos wi‖ te‖ yOu C6sar Manrtque tmade Lanza"ote'. Perhaps an overstatement, but the international:y renowned artist's love of

hisisiand home no doubtleft many ma"ks across its!ength and breadth.

Born in Arrecife on 24 Apri!1919,he grew up in relative tranquillity by the sea. His ancestors

Were Ofく )asti!ian and AndalucFan origin.A■ er a Stint as a volunteer v th Franco's forces dunng the 1936‐ 39 Civi:Wal he eventua‖ y fO‖ owed his

hean'S desire and enrolled in Madrid's Acadenlia de Be‖ as Artes de San Fernando in 1945.His lrst exhibition、

″as actually held lve years earlier

in Arrecife.

lnluenced but not stylistica‖ y dominated by Picasso and Matisse,he held his irst ma」 Or ex‐ hibitiOn Of abStraCt works in 1 954.ln the following

yearS hiS Opus toured most of Europe,and in 1964 he WaS inVited to the USA by one of his adrnirers, Ne:son Rockefe‖ et Where he exhibited in New York's(3uggenheim

Museum.

But Manrique never fo「 got his bi■ hp!ace, and after his successful US tour returned home in 1 968 brirnrning with ideas fol enhancing what he aiready feit to be the incorn‐ parable beauty of Lanzarote. He statted out with a campaign tO preserve traditional building methods,especial:y in rura!architecture,and anotherto ban the blight of advertising billboards on roadsides and across the countryside. A muitifaceted artist,Manrique subsequently turned his lair and vision to a broad range Of prOjeCtS aCrOSS the iS!and. ln a sense Lanzarote becanne his canvas, living his Own anistic ethOs:`TIo be absOluteiy free to create、 ″ithout fear or forrnula hea■ ens the soul

isiand,including in the(〕 ucva de los lνicrdes

tiOn Of inOdern art in the Canaries.Asidc

(SCe bC10W). stands,you can crOss a rathcr quaint draw‐

'om works by Manriquc such as Mir6, Millarcs,himsclf,artists Monlp6, Oscar Dominguez,Gerardo Rueda,Scinpere and

bridgc,the Puentc dc las Bolas.

cardcna are on show. It、 vill cornc as n。

To reach thc prOmontory where the 10■

grCat ShOCk to know that Manrique de―

MuSeO internacionai de Arte Contem‐ pOraneO. ICIonvcrted in 1994 by the Fundaci6n C6sar Manrique intO an attrac‐

SignCd the reStaurant(WhiCh itSelf iS Well WOrth a ViSit).

´

rhC gallCry iS Opcn daily nrorn 8 anl to 9

tive homc for mOdcrn an,thc castil10 dc

pm,and thC reStaurant until l am.Adinis‐

San JOS`WaS Originally raiscd in the 18th

slon ls ice.

century to dcal、 vith pirates and provide un―

cmploycd locals with a public‐ works jOb schennc. Thc gallery is thc rnost irnpo■

ant c011ec―

P:aya del Reducto Arrccife has quite a rc‐ spcctablc bcach ofits Own,a spit away nrorn

Cane dcl Doctor Rafael Gonzllez Ncgrin.

AFeCit―

Activities 1 71

and opens a path to the joy ofliving' ln all,he carried out seven ma」 Or prolects lon the isiand,nunnerous others elsevvhere in the archipelago and beyond,and atthe time.of his death had several others on the boil in the nOrth― east,he directed the wOrks tO rnake the grotto ofthe Jameos del Agua ac‐ cessibl()to visitors without ruining the natural beauty Of the spot. ln the sarne place he directed the construction of a music auditorium in a cavern of volcanic rock He chose also to live,notiust in harrnony、 ″ith,but directly amid the blue― black hard― ened lava nOvvs that sO characterisc)the island,building his hOuse in a now in Tiaro de ‐ Tiahiche,about 6km north ofArrecife.Since his death in a car accident on 25 Septelnlber

1992,the unusual house has served as the horne to the Fundaci6n C6sar Manrique. Futther north,the bizarre Jardin de Cactus is another of his ideas,containin9 1 0,000 cacti

of more than 1000 species in thel Montanas del F=uego he thought to turn the volcanic

energy to good account He insta‖ ed the Restaurante de![)iablo in th:s hostile terrain, 、 ″here the rneatis grilled using the subterranean heat. Manrique's unstinting lero■ s to promote the maintenance oftraditional architecture and prOtect the natural enVirOnment prompted the Cabildo to pass laws restricting urban de‐ veloprnent. ‐ 「 he growing wave oftourist devc)￨()pnnent since the early 1 980s has,hc)wevet threat―

ened to sweep all before it Manrique's untiring opposition to such unchecked urban sprawitouched a nerve with rnany Lanzarotenos,and led to the creation of an envirOn―

mental g「 oup known as E:I Guincho,which has had some success in revealing and at OuSly rnade itS hOn‐ tirnes even reversing abuses by developers Manrique was posthuFγ ヽ

orary president. There is nO dOubting the artist's lasting inluence.As you pass through villages across the island,the almost rigid adherence to certain stylistic norms in housing will hardly ‐ escape your attention 「 he standard whitewashed houses are adorned with green painted

doors, window shutters and strange onion‐ shaped chirnney pots Hoteis beyond the resons are sparse and the island seems to deal with the waves oftourism in a dignined

and thOughrul way,weighing up the dO‖ ars with the qua!ity Of island life(and trying nOt tO COOk the goOSe):n that reSpeCt,iVianrique'S Spirit iiVeS On

P:aces to Stay― budget

Activities

Diving About 3km south of thc centre of to、vn

at Playa Honda,the Club de Activi― dadcs Subacuaticas Pastinaca(● 9288052

99),Cane dc Tincchcidc 6(baJ。 ),does

″ οε力α 2(● 928802421), ′ s,6″ И″ `″ ハ[vcnida de lし e6n y Casti1lo 98, has simall singies/doubles lor 2000/3000 ptas ´ 「 hc chcapcst deal in to、 ∼n, if not thc cntirc Canary lsiands,is the basic but chccr―

diving trips.

ful〃 (Elarnaval is celebrated hcrc,as in thc rcst of

the Canary lslands,、

ith plcnty of enthusi―

∼

aslll if not the sanle styic as in l_′ de(:〕 iた

as Pa111las

ran(〕 anaria and Santa(]ruz de Tener―

´ 「 he othcr big cvcnt ofthc ycaris thc I)fa dc San Ginёs,on 25 August. .

iο

s′

α′EsPα 力α(管

928811190),Canc

dc Gran Canaria 4,whcrc spartan rooms

Specia:Events

costjust 1400/2000 ptas lt is oncnぬ ‖,if Only because ofthc priccs. αSα ″G,″ ιs(● 9288118 〃 ′ R′ s,グ ε′ `′ 63),around the`″corner at Cane del Molino lο

9,is another chcap choice,with little to dis―

tinguish it,oln thc othcrs.Roorns colllc in at 2000/2500 ptas witll oヽvn bath.

172 Arrecit― Places tO Stay

Better is″

('928811008),Cale del 18 dc Julio ll.

И′″rα ″ι″rOsお ′ α″α″(● 928811504), Cane del Doctor Raね cl GonZlez Negrin

cost 3000/4500 ptas. 1)on't take a fiOnt Юom hough,霞 they 100k s"aight acЮ ss

15, has spacious apartments with kitchen, TV and balcony for 6000 ptas. The Wateriontr`ο た′ ル″″ α″α″(‐ 92880

iοs′

α′R′sfd`″ ε′ α Cα″ ゴο″α

Roorns with bath are quite spacious and

1522;ね x928803366),Avenida de Coll

the narrow street tO a nOisy disco.

2,is a sIま tly shあby mid‐ ranr pl¨ e―

it's

Ptaces to Stay― :niddle

comお nable enOugh thOugh and singlcs/

The SOViet― StylC И′α″′ α″′″わSИ ″″ `:ル ′′ Oα ('928810300),Cane del Docゎ r

doubles go fbr 5017/6378 ptas.

Rafael Gonz41ez Negrin 4, has big but

Piaces to,lStay… top end

SOmnCWhat depressing aparhnent;fbr 5000

Top ofthe line in Arecit is Lο

ptas.

(1口

b3"υ

PLACES TO STAV

“

3 Pons16n Aroκ オ 曖2 5:‐ lold

′ ′′Z″ ,c`′ ο′ ,928805099;fax 928 80 50 39),Aveni‐

Residonda

L"“

San Cn“ 6 Hosta Espl「 a ll!も td Miramr 19 Apa由 ¨ nto9

20,おヨ」 Ro● donda Ca:● bna

∞ A"rtamontos A■ ocro Playa

■

PLACES TO EAT

ilガ と 「

■14

24 Mos6nl‐ ra,9u a

Snaは Bar Sa:lda 26 MosOn ta nnala

ArLANrIC OCEAN

B凛● ル

N“ ,`

OTHER l CaSt b de San Jos6&

Mus∞ lmema“ nal do

A■ o ContOmpO“ n(Ю 2 Ega● 6n de Cuaguas

4 Tdophones 7 Ciner:愴

Mumd“ )s

3A,'nhmon0

9 1geda de San Gin`s

〓 ヽ ＝〃

5

〓

ヽ

Ａ め︽ ＠

ロ

12 Comosソ Lttrafos 14 Caヨ I!b do San Cabnol a Mu9∞ A● u∞ bg∞

15 Cm2 Rola

17 Ca,a Ruralde Cananas 18 Viai“ insular 21 EI Bolero

Arrecife 28 Centro Modi∞ Lansalud

●

Arccit―

Places to E渡

173

da de la MancOnnunidad s/n. Roorns here

the spOns stadiurn.ヽ 4any ofthese also stop

cost 7000/8800 ptas including obligatory breakね st.

del Carmen(40 minutes:180 ptas)Costa

at Playa del Reducto.Buses i■ in to Pueno Teguisc(20 nlinutes;130 ptas)about cvery

`フ pleasant little(Castilian eating house with

half hour. Up to six a day go to Playa Blanca(1ン ちhours; 375 ptas), and up to sevcn tO■ guisc via Tahiche(30 minutcs; 110 ptaS).TWO buSeS hCad nOnhお r Orzola (1%hours;375 ptas),■ om where you can

partlytiled、 valisandrnoderatelypricedfood.

get a bOat tO the isiet of Graciosa.

P:aces to Eat Arrecife appears to havc a limitless appetite for pizza.Ifyou would likc solnething elsc, try the i``s6″ ια27″

7そ

α,Callede(]uenia2,a

″ ο,Calle de Luis Morote 28, sι α722″ み

does reasonable tapas and is a popular spot. If you feel like lal culinary excursion to

Car&Motorcycle The LZ-2 is the main

nOrthcrn Spain, the Asturian and Basque

thc capital,passing thc airport, I》 uerto del (E)annen and Yaiza cn rOutC tO Playa 131anca.

dishcs prepared by Masδ ″7ン αsg′ ,Callc de

Jos6 Antonio 98,cOuld be lor you. Mains

road leading west and eventually south of ・I'he

lし

Z-1 leads noll:h to'Tahiche and then

you can pig out forlunch next door atS″

On t0 0rzola via Arrieta and Jameos del Agua. FrOm Tlahiche, the lLZ:‐ 10 pushcs

900 ptas.

funlher inland to・ Ileguise. Ifyou didn't rent a car atthe airport or in

cOst about 1500 ptas.lf that's a little steep,

αοた βα″sα ″aα ,where the sct″ ′′′dι ′α costs `α

Callc del lDoctor Rupcrto Gonz`lez legrin is lined with sidcwalk caf6s,and inakes a relaxing cofi「 ee stop or brcakfast

lヽ

destination. Last but by no means ieast,the restaurant at the (〕 astillo de San Jos6,

■lcntioned

above,is a treat.Itlooks out ovcr the water and deserves tirne for a relaxing tipple, if not a meal.

Playa 131anca on arrival,you havc plenty of

choiccs in Arrecife ― eSpecially around Avenida de la Mancomunidad and Callc del Doctor Rafael Gon2必 lcz Ncgrin.

sea The Trasmcditeranca fcry tO c`diz (mainland Spain)StopS hCre On thC Way う rolm Las Palinas.It leaves at 10 pm on VVedncsday and arrives t、 vo days iate■

Othcrwise therc are thrce feries a weck

Ente■ ainlmlent Bars For your night‐ ti:ne entertaininent yOu are probably better off heading to PuettO dei Cannen.Ifyou wantto mix with

tO Puerto dcl ROsariO, in Fuertcvcntura

local young hormones and don't inind having yOur hearing damaged,Disco Pub

Arrnas also puts a feW fenlies on this run.

(threc hours;1050 ptas).It proceeds thcnce to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria(another 10

hours;3500 ptas iom Arrecit).Naviera

No Name,Ca‖ e del 18 de Julio 10,might

Pucrto de los ヽ4arrnOles is about 4krn nOrth_cast iOm ccntral Arecife.You can

be thc placc for you.If it's notto yourtaste,

get tickets at the Estaci6n Marftilna or at the

therc's a good half dozen other places

Trasmeditrinea Omce(● 928811019),

nearby On Callc de Jos`Antonio,including

([;alle de Jos6 Antonio 90.

EI Bolero atlヽ Io 62 and La Polinesia on the

cOrner of Calle del 18 de Julio.

Getting Around To′ Front

Ge

ng There&Away

Air For detans on nights to the isiand,sec thc Getting There&Away scction in thc in‐ troduction to this chapter.

Bus Arrecifc Bus runs services nrom thc Estaci6n de Guaguas on Vfa Mcdular,ncar

the Airport Seventeen Arrecifc

Bus scn/ices run between the airport and Playa del Rcducto(20 minutes;100 ptaS).A taxi will set yOu back 750 ptas. Toノ From

the POrt The Arrccife― COSta

lleguise bus calls in at the pon.A taxi will cost about 400 ptas.

174 Around Arrecit― Costa Teguisc Bus A couple oflocal buses(g“ αg″ αs″ _ “ ″たψα′ ι S)deSCribe CirCuits around town, but you are unlikely to need thern.

([〕

6sar Manrique.lY【 ou pay for these aesthet‐

iC plCaSureS,tO the tune lof 21,600/30,800 ´ ptas. 「 he prices includc brcakfast but not the IGIC tax.

Tlaxi′ here's a taxi rank On iCalle de JOs6

「

AntOni。 .C)ther"'iSe you can call●

31 04 or928 81 27 10.

92880

И′α″″″′″′ οS ιαS C″ εみα″ αs(●

9285907

00),Avcnida dc las lsias 14.Apanments

AROUND ARRECiFE

start at 6000 ptas.

Costtl￢ egu:se

Only about 8km no■

If yOu want tO be On the seasidc but prOtCCt the bank aCCOunt a little rnOre,try

h‐

cast Of Arrecife,

Costa Teguisc is a low‐ rise res。 ■ ncxtto a

scries of sinali but happy littlc beaches. With a few exceptiOns,the holiday houses, apalirnents and bunga10ws are notin overly bad taste,but the placc is,1lke mOst resorts

of its ilk, utterly devoid Of characten

´ 「 here's not cven a nshing village atits core to create the inlprcssiOn that it's anything Other than a big holiday canlp.

The nlain and lnost pleasant bcach is Playa de las Cucharas.ThOse further south are blessed with unfo:tunate views Of the pOrtS and industry near Arecife.Thc Centro

Piaces to Eat・ 「 here is no shortage Of places tO cat serving whatever sOrt Of CuiSinC yOu may Want(althOugh Spanish SeCmS tO bC hard to ind!). In the lCentro Corilercial Las Cucharas you have at yOur servicc Flケ χαs fOr′ Ilex‐ ヽ ′ Iex;κiο νた′ αた′fOr Greek and Rο ら」 ′sο ″G′ f〃 fOr steaks. Ente"ain,71ent TherC are quite a fbW barS in thc shOpping cornplcxcs. Carabico, On the top■ 00r of the Centr。 (Comcrcia1 1_′ as Maretas,is nOt bad for dancing and drink_ ing iatcr in the night.

Comercial Las Cucharas is a local point fOr

Ge

the resort.

COnnccts with Arrecit(via Los Marmoles

ng There&Away Arrecife Bus No l

pOn)regularly'om 7.15 am to midnight inforrnation.Thcrc is a post ofnce in the

Centro(Comercial Las Maretas.Ylou can

(130 ptas).

surf the net at(3af6 Meral, Las(C:OrOnas, Avenida dcl Mar 24. In the lし anzarotc(3ardens cOnlplcx along

tO rnake a halt here iS to visitthe Fundaci6n

Avenida de las lslas canarias is a 24‐

C6sar Manriquc,the onc‐ tiine hOme ofthe

mediCal SerViCC,SaluS(■

hour

900100144).

Activities lriou can sign up for diving at

Calipso E)iving(1'928590879),Avcnida de laS ISIaS Canarias,or E)iving Lanzarotc (奮

928590407),on Playa de las Cucharas. At Surf Club CeleSte,Ca‖ e del Mara;o

(in thC CCntro Comercial Las Maretas)yOu Can OrganiSe WindSurinng lessons.A3レ 4‐ day COurSC 10r bcginners costs 12,000 ptas.For nlountain bikes,try´「 rax,in thc sanle shop‐ ping cOnlplex.

P:aces to Stay′ hcプ リ ′ ′′ス イ′ ′ d Sα ′ ノ ″αs 「 lο

(奮

lθ

928590040;fax 928 59 03 11),Ave―

nida dc las lsias Canarias,stands Out above a‖

おr its gardcns and pools,designed by

Tlahiche

Only 6km north ofAFeCit,the Only reaSOn

artist who on the island is sccn as sornething

ofa inystical hcro.He built his hoinc,Tlaro de Tlahiche,into thc lava ncldsjust outsidc

the tOwn.

・

rhc subterranean r。 。rns are in fact huge air bubbles ieft behind by flowing lava.

It is hard tO imagine what it was likc living here now that the place functiOns as an art gallcry and ccntre ft)r the isiand's cul‐ tural linc.

´ 「 hc house is deinitely wo■ h thc oncc OVer,and yOu can scc a fairrnix ofwOrks by Manriquc and other modern artists,includ_ ing PiCasso,Chillida,Mir6 and・ rapies. 1｀ hc Fundaci6n opens Monday tO Satur‐

day■ om 10 am to 6 pm;Sunday,om 10 am to 3 pm.From l July t。 31 0ctober it

Around Arreciた ―Tcguisc 175

opens daily lronl 10 anlto 7 prn.Adrnission costs 1000 ptas.

At least scvcn buscs stOp hcrc On thcir

Guadeiupe,1″ hich has suffered numerous remodcnings(lcaving it in a rathcr conms_

way'om Arecife to Tcguise and beyond.

ing state)sincc it was irst bunt in thc 16th ccntury.

Get off at the Cmce Manriquc(the`Man‐ riquc lntersection')and 、 valk 200nl do、 vn

Several nlonastcrics dot the town, and since wandering・ eguise's pedestrianised

the San IBall:olom6 road.

lanes is a pleasure in itself,take a stroll and

I｀

keep your eyes peeled lor the Franciscan

Tegu:se

Convento de Miranores,the Convento

his town is quite a surprise packct,an un‐ expcctcd littlc trcasure trove anlid thc barc ´ plains of central ILanzarote. he isiand's

de Santo Domingo and thc Paiacio de Her“ ra y Roias.

・

I｀

「 capital until Arrecife took the baton in ´ 1852, rleguise has preserved a nstful of mOnumentS teStifying tO itS iCading rOll in the island over the centuries.

Jean de lB6thencollrt's son, Maciot, moved in to what was a(3uanche settle‐ ■lent,Acatife, and cnded up living with Tcguisc, daughter of the onc‐ tinle local chieftain. Various convents were fOunded and the tOwn prospered.But、 vith prOsperi_ ty came other probiems:Piracs Of variOus nationalities descended on the place several tiines― the only renlinder of these atacks

today is the ominously nalTled(Calle de la Sangre(B100d Street).

Sunday nlorning is nlarket day in

´ Ileguise,which,although rather touris,,iS

castilio de lsanta Barbara lt is not only the oldest foll:in the isiands,but about the

only castle wolthy ofthe narne.Perched up on([〕 uanapay peak, 1.5km east of´ Ileguise and with cornrnanding vic、 vs across the plains,it、 vas erected in the 16th century by

Sancho dc Hcrrera;it was expanded in later ycars and then fell into disuse. Sincc rc‐

stored,itis now the Museo del Enligrante Canario,housing a collection relating to

the long history of migration lrom the islands to Spain's American colonies.・ 「 he people ofthe Canary lsiands did not always go voluntarily in search oF a new life.The inlperial governrnent,under pressure in the

Americas iom the growing French and

worth a look.

British incursions,I偽 it the need to populate its occupied territories:the govenlinent or―

Paiacio Spinola IBullt betwccn 1730 and

ganised the transfer of fanlllics to Cuba, Florida,Tlexas,Mcxico and other colonies,

1780,this sprawling inansion only passed to the Spinolas,a prorninent family on the isiand,in 1895.It now scrves a double role as a nluseurn and the oficial rcsidcnce(of the Canary lslands governmcnt.()n thc oc‐ casions when any governrnent rnembers do come to stay,it would appearthey live very

where they were expected to establish ne、 se■ lements.

v

′ 「 he■laterial is intcrcsting,but the castlc

is worth a visit in its own right,if onlyわ r thc grcat vicws.Itis opcn・ ruesday to Friday

iom 10 am to4 pm,and weckends iom ll anl to 3 pnl.Adrnission costs 300 ptas.

nicely, thank you. The hOuse deserves a leisurely inspection,although rnuch of the

Piaces to Eat Rι s′ α″″α″た Иεα′ た,Plaza ι

furnishings are clearly nOt precious period piCCeS frOnl SOrnC 10ng 10r30tten era. Itis open Monday to Friday frorn 9 arn to

de la Constituci6n,is one of several entic― ・ ing placcs to cat hcrc.「 he interior is all

3 pm(but closcd Wednesday);weckends

■leals start at around 1000:ptas. j″ α α″ra zα (3α ″′ ,on the corner of ´ R′ s′α″″

9.30 anlto 2 prn.´ he price of adinission is 300 ptas. I「

Around the Town Acrossthe square is the rather eclectic igiesia de :a

Virgen de

deep, dark tinlber and whitewash, and

Calie de Lc6n and Calie de Jos6 Betancou■ is housed in the sanle block as the lPalacio

de Herrera y Rqas.A null meal wili cost about 2000 ptas pcr pcrson.

,

176 The No■ h― Guaiza

Ge

ng There&Away Up to scven buses

Many of the towns are pretty,but the

iom Arrecife stop in Teguise cn routc to

principal attractions are thc cornbined work

destinations such as Orzola and I‐ Iarfa.

of nature and(〕 6sar Manriquc, fiom lava caves to a stunning iookout point and cactus

San Barto:olml● Sta“ ing life as the Guanche se■ lelment of

gardcns.

Alei,Sm Bartolom`cndcd up in the 18th

GUATiZA

centulγ as the de facto privatc nefdonl ofa

Guatia is aね irly stock standard Concjcro

militia lcader,Francisco Guerra Clavijo y Pcrdonlo,and his descendants.In the nlain church, which itself is unremarkable, are stored a numbcr of】 Romanesque wooden

town 9kni nonh ofTahiche along the LZ‐ 1. JuSt OutSide it(eaSt Of the highWay)iS the Jardin de los Cactus,lor those interested

statues.

prickly custol■ ler.The garden is open daily

A couplc ofkllornetres■ 1lther west ofthe

tOWn On the Tina10 rOad(iuSt bCfOre the town of Mozagり ,rises up thc wcird,whitc

in inspecting thousands of varieties of this

■om 10 am to 6 pm.Admission costs 500 ptas.

Monumento al Campesino(Peasants'

ARRIETA&PLAVA DE LA CAR:TA

Mlonument),crected in 1968 by(surprise,

l、

surprisc)(1)6sar Manrique to honourthe un― ending and thankless iabourthat nlost ofthe

islanders had endured for generations. In the su:Tounding buildings an attenlpt has   ロトＯＬ 電ＮＺくコ Ｌ ａ ｒ● ・

been■ lade to reconstruct the bucolic lifc‐ ′ lc;though the kind ofrneal you'1l get at the restaurant is not a rcflcction of what

lext up along the road is the nshing vlllage of AITieta.lts only attraction is the rnodest Playa de la Garita. It's a quiet,unassunling littlc redoubt, and you can stay in one of a fbw little pen‐

slones and apa■ments. casル αs a′ ′ノ И″ 928835199),on the coぉ troad between lα

Slり

(●

would have been the average peasant's

ArTicta and Punta M● Jercs,is a discrcet col‐ lection ofbungalows that cost 6000 ptas for

dally dict.

two.

The monumentand adじ aCent bundings ac open dally fiorn 10 annto6 pnl andadrnission is ice.The restaurant doeslunch only.

The EI Crifo Museo dei Vino is 3km

Ras′α″″ α″′ ο」 E′ И″ ε′ α,on the corner of CaHe de Garita and Cane de la Marina,will

charge you about 1200 ptas for enticing main courses of frcsh ish.

south along the road to Yaiza.Here you can

The No 9 bus'om Arecit to Ozol■

see wine‐ making instruments dating back 200 years,stroll around the 40-hecセ u.e vinc‐ yard and indulge in so口 nc、vine― tasting。 ・ he

which only runs hvice a day,cans in here.

rnuscunl and vineyard Open daily fiOin

The`bad lands ofthe crown'are the living

10.30 anl to1 6 prn,and entry is fiec.

(Or dCad)tCStiinOny tO the VOICaniC up‐ surges that shook the north of the isiand

「

丁he

MALPAiS DE LA CORONA

thousands ofyears ago.Flora is quietly,pa‐ tiently winning its way back,and it is herc that you can visit two ofthe isiand's better

North

known volcanic caverlls.

One principal highway,the LZ‐

1,leads

no■ h out of Arrccife. It passes through Tahiche and then(converting to the LZ‐ 10)

Tcguise(see the preceding Around Arrecit

scction).From Teguise the LZ-10 swings

Cueva de:os Verdes&Jarneos dei

Agua

Perhaps rnore obviously than on any ofthe other isiands, lava sccrns the halimark of

north towards Harfa,while the LZ‐ l forks

Lanzarotc. So it should come as little sur‐

right at・ IhhiChe

prise that, al日

and takes you up to the

north‐ cast coast ofthe isiand.

icr thc lunar wonders of the Parquc Nacional de Timanね ya(see later on

′ rhc No■ h― Thc Minor('anaries 177

in thiS Chapteり ,the floW Of ViSitOrS should be strongest here,at the site of an anclent

Jarrteos dei Agua The pipcd New Age

Jamcos del Agua(adaptedけ C6sa Mm‐

music continues here,where it is perhaps a little nlore appropriate.(3reat wedges of inoiten lava plunged thrOugh here on their way to thc sea,but in this casc tllo ocean

rique into a kind of New Ar retrcat),pan of tllc sanle phcnOrncnOn, arc only lkrn

heart ofthc Janleos.Manriquc's idca(of in‐

・ he cavernous iava slide intO the Ocean. 「 C'ueva de losヽ erdes and the h。 110ws ofthe

apan iOm One anOther. Cueva de:os Vierdes This yawning,lkin‐ long chasm is the nlost spectacular segrnent

ofan almost8km lavatubeleR behind by an eruptionぬ ■ occured 5000 yca・ s ago.Asthe laVa p10ughed dOWn tOWardSthC Sea(a litlC

leakcd in a bit,fbrining thc azure lake at the

stalling bars and a restaurant arOund the lake,adding a pool,a cOncen hall seating 500(with wonderful acOustics)and the di‐ dactic(〕 asa de 10s v01canes, was quitc a brainwave. I‐

Iave a closer look into the lake's watcrs.

The tiny ヽ Vhite neCkS at thC bOttOFn are

more tllan 6kril oftunnel arc abOve sea lcvcl

crabs.Sma1l ones yes,and thc Only exarn‐

today,and another l.5krn extend below the Water'S SurねCC),the tOp layerS Cooled and

ples known ofル ″″′ aoPsぉ ′。夕″ο′ ″力α ―

fOnnedarO。 lbeneathwhichtheliquidstone continued to shitt untilthe eruptiOn exhaust― ed itsel■

｀ou wili bc guided thrOugh twO charn‐ ′ bers, onc below thc Othe■ 「 he cciling is 1う

iargcly covered with what i00k like nlini‐

stalactites.In fact,■ o water penetrates thc

cave.The odd pointy extrusiOns are where bul)bles ofair and lava、 vere thro、 vn up onto

blind crabs.Please “ take notice of the signs and do″ ο′throw cOins intO the water― the ・ col■ osion caused could kll1 0ff this uniquc speclcs. The colmplex is open daily nro■ 19.30 ain

to 7 pm, and entry cOsts 1000 ptas.()n

´ r'uesday, Friday and Saturday, thc bars' 3unction becornes paramOunt and thc place opens unti1 3 am. Adrnission a■ er 7 pr:1 costs l100 ptas.

the ceiling by gases released while the

The No 9 bus betwcen Arrecife and

boiling lava■ owcd;as they hit the ceiling and air,they`fiozc'in the prOccss Of drip― ping back into the lava stream.

(:)rzola,which only runs twice a day,stOps

In spite of the nanle, there is nothing green about the cave.Sorne 200 years ago it was considered prOperty of a shepherd fanlily ― the Vierdes! Iiundreds of years befOre it had served as a renュ ge for locals

at the tum‐ ofF for JaFnCOS del Agua.Thc

cueva dc los verdes is a further lkm walk inland.´ 「 he problenl is,you'd have tO gct the 7.40 am bus iom Arrecit and wait until the 4.30 pm bus lrom C)rzola passing back

the other way(orthe 3.30 pm"om Arecit Ont0 0Z。 la).

during pirate assaults on the isiand.Ali sollls

of cvidence of their presencc_11・ or:l bones

Orzola

have been fOund and aSSenlbled on display in the Musco Arquc‐ o16gico in ttccife.

Most peoplcjust pass throutt this nonhem nShing town on their way to thc lsia Gra‐

to tools and ccranlics―

Anyone with scvcre back problems who

ciosa.Sorne stop for a foOd break in one of tllc inany little restaurants nanking the port,

thinks they nlight nOt enjoy having tO bend over a lot should think twice about entering

but relatively few get wind Ofthe beach a couple of kilo:Tletres west Of thc tOwn_

the cave― therc arc a few passages that

about the only one in this part ofthe isiand,

require you to bend getthЮ ugh.The New gratuitous backdrOp dispcnsed、vith. The CueVa iS open

over allnOst double to

othcr"′

Agc musicis a nthcr

inising clifFs.For details of the boat to the

that could probably be

lsia Graciosa,sec below.

daily彙 oin 10 am to 6

THE MiNOR CANARiES

pnl,and entry costs 1000 ptas.

ise dorninatcd by steep uncOmprO_

The string of tiny isiets nung out north of

est一 Mirador del R`o 178 The Nonh‐ ヽイ

Lanzarotc arc known as the Minor([)a‐ ´ narics, and ininor they ccl威 ainly are. rhe

pimlples, measuring rcspectively 64 sq m

only one you can visit is the lsia(Graciosa

and 15.7sq m. In comparison,Isia de mOntana(clara,

(aka La Gmciosa).

the tip Of a V。 lCanO pOking itS nOSe aboVe tlle Atlantic l″ aves,is a giant at l.3 sq knl.

The northemmost land inass of the Ca‐

isia Graciosa About 500 people live on the island,virtu‐

naries is isia de Alegranza,but its 1 0.2 sq

ally all of thern in the village of Calcta del

krn are uninhabited.A key landfall light‐ housc operates on the isiand, but that's

seb。 ,which is wherc you alight nrom the C)rzola boat.Bchind it stretches 27.5 sq km

of largely barren scrub land,intermpted by

about it. Since thesc islets all fonTl part ofa naturc

ive rninor volcanic peaks ranged fiorn

reserve,pcople are not supposcd to set foot

nonh to south.About a halfhour、 valk south

on the■ 1, which is one reason why no

OfCaleta del Sebo is a pleasantli■ le beach, and there's another at the no■ herll end of

regular boats go out fioin(3)rzola.It may be

the isiet.

([)n a windy day, Caleta del Sebo can

seenl a cross between a barc Moroccan villagc and sand― s,wept Wild West outpost―

withOut anything particularly wild about it. This place is worlds away■ om thc tourist

mainstream. ´ I・

hcre are three places to stay. Pa″

壌﹁． ■ 囀磯Ｉ五一

α(● E″ ′ ″ ′′

sブ

928842051),Cane dela Ma`″

“ 3ariovento 6, has simple but clean del 】 doubles for 2500 ptas with privatc bah,or 2000 ptas without.Itis a tw blocksin iom the port.

οS E′ Near the church, И′α″′ α″ ′ `″ apatments

P′ sι ′dο ″(,928842036),has lor t、 vo

people at 4000 ptas. There's no

sign,so you'll have to ask which house itis. Pa″ si`′ Gル αsο ′('928842101),about 1 001n left along thc water」 ont a■ cr you get off the boat,has rooins for 2500/3000 ptas. ´ hc two lpensi()nes have restaurants,and on ￨ヤ

I｀

Cane de・Ibgala(near Pensi6n Enriqueta)is the I)isco Pub Las Arenas for your weckend entertainrnent.

Lineぉ Maftimas Romero(雪

you could Pay a nsherman tO take yOu,but you'd wantto ask yourself、 vhy and ifyour desire tO stanlp around on them is suficient grounds for actually doing so.

THE NORTH‐WEST Mirador del Rlo About 2knl no■ h ofY6,the Spanish arrned forces set up gun batteries at the end ofthe 19th Century at a StrategiC Site OVerloOking

El R`o, the straits separating Lanzarote fionl the lsia(Graciosa.Spain had gone to war with the USA over control ofCuba,and yOu cOuldn't be tOO careful!Here the anist C6sar Manrique le■ his imprimatur,con‐ verting the gun emplacer:lentinto a lookout point for tourists in 1 973.

It now has a bar and souvenir stand to ac‐

companythevic、vs.´ 「 helookoutisopcndaily ■om 10amto6pm,and cntry costs 400 ptas.

Guinate

′ 「 he village of(〕 uinatc,about 5km south of the Mirador del RIo,is nothing special,but ifyou are a bird iover you'd bettcr stop herc

9288420

The number rises to fbur■ .oin July to Scp‐ telTlber'Tickets cost 1700 ptas rctunl and

forthe 45,000 sqin T'ropical Park,hometo sorne 1300 exotic birds.Many ofthern are rcally bcautinul,butthe bird show_palTots On sc00ters etc― is a littlc silly.It's opcn daily lrom 10 am to 5 pm.Admission costs

the trip takes 20 minutes.

1200 ptas.

0)ther is:ets

(lookout)overiooking iEI Rfo and thc islets. ´

70)runs three boats a day'om O厖 ola in thc north of Lanzarotc around to the isiet.

′ α′ο″ Bchind the park there is a ine″ ノ ・ l｀ he other isiets are all uninhabited. 「 he tiniest of thern,the iRoque del Este and

Roque de: Oeste, arc little :1lore than

I・

he nlain dilllcrence bet、 veen this onc and

thc lVlirador dcl Rfo is the absence of a bar and adrnission chargc.

The South― Parque Nacional de Tirnanfaya 179 Haria

tO TinaJO.Buses to La Caleta dc Fainara

rhc shady centrc ofthis village inakcs a dc_

also call in herc.

´

lightful rcsting spot and,ifthe tiine is right,

lunch or a lnid_anenl。 。n drink.

La Santa

6sar Manrique n10ved into a farnlhousc ´ outside liarfa atter his hOuse, Ilaro de

Although little more than 10krn wcst Of

(E〕

Tahiche,had become untcnable bccause Of alithe visitOrs who liked tO drOp by and sce ho、 ′ he was gctting on. R′s″ ′″ α″た Pα ′α ιοσα,on Plaza dc

Lc6n y Castil10,has a set lunch incnu fOr 850 ptas.R`s′ α″″ α′′ ιCα sα 」 (レ ″ α,Calle de la Encarnaci6n Rodrigucz Lasso,is another option on the rOad heading Out Of tOwn tO the north. Mains cost 1500 ptas. Several

buSeS COnnect Harfa to Arrccife via´ Ileguise and・ Ilahiche.

Famara as the crow flies,yOu need to detour

inland Via Tina,o to rcach La Santa.And if

you do, yOu inay well wonder why you bothcrcd. whcn you cnter thc villagc, it 100kS quitC prOmiSing・

SCVCral Spiftt littiC

eatcries linc thc main load,a10ng with the odd surf shOp.It's plain there is no beach here,but perhaps futther on… .

Well,furthCr On(a little Way nOrth in What is known as La lsleta)is a needlessly Cornplcx wan・ cn of roads weaving through the bare v。 lcanic soil and scrub to the rocky coast.´ he giant concrete incss is C′ ″b ια 「

Fa171ara As a young boy,befOre he hit the big ti:ne,

Sα ″′ α('928599995).It's

Manrique whiled away many a childhood

options fOr physical exertiOn. Indeed it

Summer On the Wild beach of Fainara.The SCrappy SeaSide hanllet of La Caleta de Farnara doesn't scem tO have cllanged inuch

mainly a time‐

Share place for ipeople secking unlilT

ted

claiins tO be thc world's rnOst fanlous itness holiday centre,where olympic ath_

leteS get themSeiVes into shape.Docsn't

in many ycars,and makes few concessions

sound like rnuch iュ n,and anyway itis really

tO tOurists, apart`ronl a couple of restau‐

quite an ugly place.

rants.

A couple Of kilometres north,howevet the【 Jrbanizaci6n iFanlara is an inconspicu_ Ous, stcp‐ telTaccd arrangement Of holiday

hornes and little clsc..There yOu can stay at

βン″gα ′ οWS Eα ″α″α (●

928845132)お r

Four buses run herc iOm Arrecife via Tinalo,but only Monday to Friday.

The South

5500 ptas a night.

One buS a day connects Arrecit with La (〕

aleta. It lCaVCS thc capital Monday tO

PARQUE NAC10NAL DE TIMANFAVA

´

r'hc cruption that bcgan on l september

Friday at 2 pin.

1730 and convulsed the southern end Ofthe

Tiagua

aClySmS in recorded history. Not only On

AbOut 10k■ l south of La(Caleta alnd 8kin nOnh_west Of san Ban。 1。 in6,Tiagua is

account of the cOnsiderable anlounts of

nothing special.ButifyOu have an abiding intcrcst inね Πn lit,yOu may just want tO

isiand was anlong the greatest v。 lcanic cat‐

lllolten rOck ,which iwerc angrily rOcketed Out ovcr the cOuntrysidc and intO thc ocean

through an infcrnal nurnber of craters,but

call in at the Museo Agricola EI Patio,

bCCauSC it did not lct up until April 1736!

whcrc peoplc dressed in traditiOnal pcasant garb pretcnd the c10ck has stoOd cOrnplete‐

heart of this eerie 52 sq kni natiOnal park,

ly Still and tOil aWay(but nOt tOO hard)On the fann.Itis open Monday to Friday lloln

′ hc Montanas del Fucgo,which lie atthc I｀

10 am to 5.30 prn,and Saturday nronl 10 ain

are not inapprOpriately narned. Whcn you reach the Manriquc― designed iookout and Restaurante del E)iablo at a risc known as

to 2.30 pm.Adinission costs 600 ptas.

thc lsiOte dc Hilario,try scrabbling around

Tiagua iS On thC bus route nrom Arrecifc

in the pebblcs― it'1l be intcrcsting to see

180 The South― Inland&Wcst Coast

just how long you can hold them in your hands.At a depth of a few Centinletrcs,the temperature is already 100° C.By the titne you hit lo■ 1,the mcrcury shows 600° C VOuld haVC tO be quite a therinO― (that ヽ

metr!).The CauSC OfthiS phenOmenOn iS a brOiling rnagrna chanlber 5k■ l below thc surfacc.

SOme teble(Or undCr the CirCumStanCeS perhapS ratller rObuSt)SCrapS OfVegetatiOn,

including 200 spccics of lichen, are re‐ claiming the eanh in a few stretches of an other、 ″ise fascinatingly rnoribund land‐

scapc of fantastic lorrns and shades of black,grey,mar00n and red.Fine,copper‐ hued soil slithcrs down volcano cones, arrested then by t、 visted, swirling and folded inounds of solidined lava_1。 。king

Doub:ing up on a dronledary

Rocas(about 5km north of Yaiza).From

in panis like a licorice‐ addict's idca of hcaven.Frolll the lsiote de Hllario the view

here you can also lgo on carnel ridcs tiorn

across the lava sea punctured by volcanic cOnes is likc a sccnc lヒ om a sci‐ ■■lin. ′ 「 he people running the show at lslote de

closed at the tirne of writing.

Hilario havc a series ofendearing tricks for

yOu. In one, a clump of brushwood is shoved into a hole in thc ground and within

secOnds is cOnvened by thc subterl・ ancan f、 lnlace intO a burning bush.A pot of water poured down another hole is prornptly shot back up in cxplosivc geyser fashion.

abOut 9 am to 4 pln.The inuscum was North ofthe park on the same road(near

Mmcha BImca)is the Centro dc Visitantcs c interpretaci6rl,a didactic(display on the ins and outs of volcarlic activity. It opens daily l卜 On1 9 am to 5 prn and is ficc.

′ 「 hc lnain park installations are open daily,Oin 9 am to 6 pm.The last bus trip along thc Ruta de 10s v01cancs depa“ s at 5 prn.Entrance,which includcs the cxcursion

pOWered BBQ Out The the baCk(WhiCh yOu may ObSerVe)・

and the coultesy hcat displays at thc lsiote de H‖ 証iO,COSも 1000メ aS・ ・riOu can Only getintO the park under your which yOu Can o、 vn steam or on atour bus―

inal product tastes very good.

Organise through mosttravel agents and the

And thc rcstaurant is,of course,a gag in whatcver meat you order comes off

itself―

the all‐ natural,VolCanO―

´ 「 he nesh_cO10urcd buses with the Lan―

zarOtc tOurist 10gO take yOtl a10ng the 14k:in

Ruta de los lν loicanes,an cxcursion through

sOrne of the most spectacular volcanic ´ country you are ever likely to see. 「 he trilingual taped cornrncntary can be a bit

larger hotels.

INLAND&WEST COAST La Geria

From San Bartolom6(See the prcceding

Around Aπ ecit section), the LZ-30

painful at tirnes,but it is infornlative.More

highway proceeds south― westthrough what

lrustrating perhaps is one's inability to abandon thc bus to sinlply expericnce the

has to be one of the oddest‐ looking wine‐

awesome slenCC and maleSty OfthiS StOny

growing regions around.´「 hc vignerons of Lanzarote have found the dcep,black lava‐

waste.1｀ 1le busesleave evcry hour or so and

sOil,enrichcd by the isiand's shaky seismic

the trip takcs about 40 minutes.

history,pcrfect fOr thc grape.The funher

A few kilornetres south along the road that travcrses the castem edgc ofthe park is a ge。 10gical museurn, the Museo de las

sOuth you procecd,the inore common are thesc unique vineyards consisting of li■

dugouts nu:1:ured bchind crescent shaped

le

The Soutll― The East CoasttO Playa Blanca 181

stone walls,knOwn as zο ιοs, inlplanted in the dark earth. The″ α′ ッαs力

(Malmsey wine)prOduced

here is a good drOp and along the road you pass a g∞ d halfdOzcnら οdagαs where you

can buy the 10cal prOduce at wholesale prices.

Ugalヽ I。 ■ling inuch will keep yOu up in this little hanllet,but it inay be of interest tO know that the ctamels used lR)r tourist rides

in he Parq¨ Nacional de Timmね ya(s∝ above)can uga home. Yaiza Yaiza is s()mething of a sOuthern crOss_ Юads,so yOu'1l probably pぉ s thЮ ugh on your travels.1｀ here's nO speciic,cason fbr hanging abOuち but if you arrive at lunch tirne and are feeling peckish,yOu'1l be able to■ nd a fё w pleasant enOugh eateries.

EI Goifo&Around The tour buses pile past this haliforgO■

en

ishing village,which can nlake a pleasant alternative retreat fbr those uninterested in the hurly‐ burly Of the international beach

DAMlEN SiMONIS

La(3eria、″ine‐ growing region,where ma′ vasね (Malmsey wine)is produ《 冷d

set.

Just south of the settlement begins a siing of sinall and largely unvisited black‐

Sand(Or itta,ifyou pFtう beaCheS.The Onc nearthe CharcO de los ClicOs is partic‐ ularly pleaSant(althOugh a little tOo pebbly) and prOtCted・ The CharC。 (pOnd)itSeif is a

modestlake known■ )rits uncanny emerald geen hues.It'sjust in■ Om the beach,Over_ shadowed by a Юctt cli“ This is whatぬ e tour buses(and their occupants)are ancr! If you havc wheeis, takc the tirnc to skl■ le

down the cOastroad、 vhich cventual‐

ly leads to La Hoya.On the way yOu will

pass Los Hen′ iderOs, lava forinations even inore bizarre than the bOg standard

laVa Coastlinc here. Aner about 6km you reach the 10ng I)laya de Janubio, bchind ヽ ″hich arc Las Sa:inas de Janubio,or salt pans, from wllich is cxtracted sea salt by evaporation. There iSjuSt One li■ le placc to stay in El

Golfo,and it's the charining″ οた″′ οd′ ′

Gο ι わ (8928173272;928511628).It hぉ half a dOZen doubles 13oing for 6600 ptas. Ylou'11 6nd nO sho■ age Of cating options beyond the hOtel, which is just at the en―

trance to the hanllet.()n the lⅣ ateriLOnt, threc eateries cOmpete fbr yOur a■ lention: the Casα 乃′ αdο ,I,αgο ″π d`and να″Иz″ .

THE EAST COAST TO PLAMA BLANCA Puerto dei Cannen Only about 6km sou■ 1 0fthe airport sprawis

LaFttЮ te'S premier resort,Lcing 3km of golden beach.It is doubtless the best beach

On the isiand(those on Fuertevenmra ae, hOWCVeち mileS betteり ,SO it iS ha・ dly sur‐ prising that this is the biggcst development on the island.

What else can you say? Walk the es― planade and yOu'1l soon get a feel for the placc fヤ onl thc signs:｀ iie C)ldc Spanish lnn,

PiC In The Sky― For thc Best in British

182 The South― The East Coastto Playa Blanca H。 lmc COOking,Tonight!Miss Elections!Says it all rcally.

Sexy Buin

information´ he white kiosk that houses I｀

the tOurist Oficc(奮

928811762),Avenida

,Playas,opens delを ■

Monday to Friday 1loin 9 anlt。 l pln and 4.30to 7.30 prn;Saturday 命om 9am tol pm. The post ofice is at Calle de Juan Carlos

ls/n,誠 the westem cnd oftown.

The B00kshOp,calie de Timanfaya 4,is

Puc“O del Cannen.lDoubles with own bath 江 P′ ″sあ ″Mag“ (● 928513874),Canc del Hierro 8,cost 3300 ptas,while singles are 2500 ptas.

″ α″ ″″′ ο(● 9285102 α″′″ゎs Bα ″ И′α″ ′ 88),Cane del Ancla l,is a sho■ Walk off Avenida de las Playぉ ―ftt enough away to bc insulated frorn the rowdiness but close enOugh tO StuFnble hOrne at the end Of a long night.Apartinents for one/two people sta」 :at 5000/6000 ptas.´「 he COFnpleX haS a

the best sOurce of English‐ language books on the island. lf you have rnedical trouble,there is no sholtage of private CliniCS.SaluS(`口 '90010

ba and seVeral SWimming pO。 lS(fOr thOSC without the strcngth to rnake it to the

0144),Avenida de las Playas,operateS 24

nucleus of to、 vn and the main happening

hOurs a day. For an anlbulance you could

scene alongAvenidade ias Playas,you could ο″as indulge yOurself at 〃ο′ Zο s Flα ″」

callthe Cmz Roia on,928812222.The 10cal p01ice station(● 928834101)isjust

beaCh). For a li■ ,le luxury that is close to the old

(●

928510175;fax 928 51 `′ 02 02),Cane del

Roque del Este l.Singlc/doublc roorns cost

behind the post ofncc.

a cO01 10,250/14,600 ptas plus IGIC.

Activities The main activity seeins to be

naking out on the bcach anter a night's

Places to Eat Among all the sauerkraut,

drinking.

■sh and chips and other delights on offer, yOu'1l occasionally stumble across a place ′α″′ θZα O責 lering sOme 10cal cuisine.R′ srα ″ cα ヵαdα ,Cane de C6sar Malriquc 3,just off

′ rhat said, yOu will soon notice advertisernents around for exCursions and

cOurses in the usual watery activities, pre‐

donlinantly

windsuriing,

diving

and

deep_sca nshing. FOr diving, try R&IC Diving Del■ n Club(● 928 51 4290), CentrO COmercial Aquariuin.For deep―

sca

Avenida de las Playas,is onc such rarity.

It might be wOnh your while ge■ ing a ′ α″′ taxi tO R′ s″ ″

αF7″ οα(●

9285135

nshing contact MAAna Segundo(● 92851 3736).You are probably bcst off booking

50),on the main`ι road iom PuenO del

through the rcception of one of the larger

and the chcfonien cOines up wlth a few sur‐

hoteis.

prisc (lishes not listed on the excellent mcnu.cOunt On spendillg about 2500 ptas a head.

Places to Stay At last count thcre wcrc mOre than 170 hoteis,apartinent blocks and bunga10w cOrnplexes in Puenlo dellCannen. Many dcal only with tour opcrators,but if

they have a spare room going will o食 en

obligc the independent blow‐ in. The problcm,of coursc,cslpecially if you don't have transport,is inding thc ones that will and that you can af110rd.´「 he tourist oficc in

Canncn to Machcn it's only open for dinner

EnterLnin口 nent・ rhe bulk ofthe bars,discos and nightclubs are lined up along the l″ a‐ terfiont Avenida de las Playas.Ifyou're not interested in the Miss Sexy】 Bum Elections, you could try Walkiki,in the C〕 entro('orn‐

crcial Atiantico,Avenida dc las Playas(a littic way east of the tOuriSt OfiCe).It'S

AITccife has a full list of all the establish‐

popular with iocal ex‐ pats, Inixing it、 vith

mCntS(the One in PuertO del Cannen Can be less relied upOn tO haVC thiS liSt), WhiCh givcs you the phone numbers but no indi‐

the tourists.

cation of what category the places fall into.

there's plcnty of choice up and do、 vn the

Thcrc is just One standard pensi6n in

I―

Ialf a dozen othcr bars and discos are

crarnrncd into the same cornplex, and strcct.

The South― Thc East CoasttO Playa Blanca 183

Getting There&Away Buses run iom

not stop atthe tiny rock‐ and― sand beach yOu

StOpS a10ng the watcriont Avenida de las

nrst cncounter.About thc only building of

Playas to Arrecit(and sOme on to Costa TeguiSC)regularly iom 7 am to midnight.

note ls the Supelrinercado PapagayO.

Thc fare to Arecife is 180 ptas. If you intend tO get a ferry tO Corrale」 。

places tO stay is

(Fuertcventura)lLol■ l Playa Blanca(see

(●

be10W),yOu inight WanttO hop onto one of the nree bus sein′ ices lⅣ hich connect with Playa IBlanCa.BuSeS 10r two of thc Fred OISen trrieS ieaVe iOm the VaradeЮ (the

western cnd of Puel威 del Carinen at thc pon).Atthe timc ofwriting Naviera Arinas ￨。

PiaCes to IStay&Eat One Ofthe cheapest И′α′′ α″

わSC″ ′ ′ ι″ ″ ′z

928517089),Callc de la`″Plaza 8.It's

just by the church in the tOwn and is nOthing naSh,but apartrnents start at 4000 ptas.

For something more stylish,И ′α″ ′ α″′″― わS′αみ″ B′ α″ιαRο οた(壼 928517037;fax 928517055),Ca‖ e de Janubio s/n,has

comfortable apanmcnts fOr twO in a

Only put On a buS(COming iOm Costa

COmplcxjust offAvcnida del Papagayo and a100m str。 11彙 om the main beach.They

Teguisc and Arreciお )b its irst moming inγ .PiCk it up■ om Hotcl Sal Antonio and Apartalmentos La Perla.

cost 8500 ptas. R′ Srα ″ ′ α″た E′ И′ ″ασ′″d′ ′ αsα ムPaSeO Marftinlo 1 2, is an excellent waterfiOnt

Puerto Calero A few kilometrcs west of Puerto del

restaurant.´ he nsh dishes are the pick and, I｀

Carmen,PucnO calerO is little more than a yaCht harbOur With a few rcstaurants.About

althOugh they can sct you back up to 2000 ptas, arc wOrth every peseta. It's about ha11ヽ vay bct、 vecn the p。 1: and the main beach. 1・

the Only thing that mi♪ t ttraCt yOu herc is the ChanCe tojoin a submarine saFari.

´ hC yelloW Subrnarinc takes 44 passen― gers and generally rnakcs threc one‐ hour tOurS a day,reaChing a depth of 27■ 1.IIζ ou I｀

can book through a travel agent or call dircct(●

Getting There&Awiay Up tO six buses (three On Sunday)depart daily for An・

ecife

Via PuertO del Cannen.The ticket to Ar‐ recife costs 375 ptas.

928512898).

Lincas Frcd 01sen fcrics connect with Coralclo,in Fuc“ eventura,four times a day. :「 he tickets cost 1800 ptas and the

P:aya Bianca Not a bad little beach and a resOrt that has not gottcn Out Of contr。 l yet, but fiankly

you are inuch beter off crOssing the Ocean to Corrale」 o in Fue■ eventura,where the bcaches and dunes put the cffO■ hcrc tO sharne.´ F'hat said,the beachcs at Punta dcl

crossing takes about an hou■ ・ he cornpeti― 「 tiOn comes florn Naviera Al■ nas,which has

iVe daily ferry depanures at 1700 ptas a head. Free buscs ionl Pue■ O dcl Carlnen(9 ain

If it's thurnping nightlifc you're aner,

and 5 pm)take yOu to mectthc 10 am and 6 pm Frcd 01sen inγ departurcs.Similar‐ 1脇 a icc bus Opcrates iom Costa Teguise

then yOu shOuld push on up thc cOast to PuenO del cannen.

(Aparthotel Albatros), Arrecife(Hotcl Lancelot)and Pueno del Carinen(Hotel

inforrnatiOn´「 hc tourist ofnce in the portis

San Antonio and Apa■ amentos La Peria) forthe 9 am Naviera Armas trry.

PapagayO tO thC eaSt(SCe be10W)are pre町

.

of precious little usc.

Punね deI Papagayo Activities Again,the main activity here is to loll about On the sand or go fOr a sOOth‐ ing splash in the briny.

´ 「 he main beach is abOut a lkrn stroll a10ng the WateriOnt eaSt■ om■ he po威 .:Do

The south‐ east cOastleading up to Punta del Papagayo is pcppercd with a series ofpretty g。 lden‐ Sand

COves, Playa de las Muり eres, Playa dcI Pozo, :Playa dcl :Papagayo and Caleta dcl COngriO.

184 The South― The East Coastto Playa Blanca

They ctt be reached by a d

trall

heading e`st of Playa Blancち or on a boat Organised by Atoxa Excu薦 lones(● 98974

3043)彙om hepo■ .The boat doesthe nm

ぉur timcs a day and me rctum“ p costs 1300 ptas.At least one other boat up t。

cOinpany nlns coinpetition excursions there t)r the sane price.

田卜０∝くＮ〓くコ ШＯ くＪ∽一

isia de・ Tenerife

HIGHLIGHTS

The largeSt iSiand in the archipelago(2034

Sq km),Tenerit iS alSO the highest.The Pico del■ leide,at 3718nl,is in fact Spain's tallest peak.The barren cast cOast cOntrasts starkly with the rich green no“ h‐ 、 ″est,and the vertig。 _inducing clinRI ofthe nolth scern worids a、

vay fl・

Om thc internatiOnal h01lday

bCaCh playgrOundS Of Playa de las Am6ric‐ as and the south― west.

ThC bulk of thc population of 655,652, knovvn in the local siang as IOs Chichar― reЮ s anerthe cみ たみα″ ´ 。s(horse mackerel) 。nce favoured by tlle isiands,■ shel.rlen,is conccntrated in the noll:h. Half of thcrn occupy the adjacent citics Of Santa CI■ lz (the iSiand and prOVincial capital)and the univcrsity city of La Laguna,10knl away. 1｀

Parque Nacional de ias()anadas de! Teide for breathtaking vistas

he la■ er is a peari Of urban elegance,and

・ Letting your hair down fo「 Carnavai, second on!y to Rio de Janeiro's ‐ ・ 「 he Charming old rnansions of La

there is sOmething for everyOne on the island _ in・ 。m whale_spotting to hiking, fl・

。 Ciirnbing the vo!canic peak of the

Laguna

oin nightclubbing tO bird‐ watching. Tlle nlain drawback with the place is thc

・ JOurneying through La Laguna's stu‐ dent bars,:ate intO the night

shccr volurne of tourists pOuring through. Lucklly,Inost Ofthem stick to the sOuthern reso■ ls and Puc lo dc la Cruz, inaking it

o Wa:king Or d

ving through the Anaga

rnountains,Ⅶ nding up with the surf and

a mea!on the Piaya de San Roque

possible eisewhere tO feel you really are in Spanish telTitory and nOt a sunny version of

・ VVatChing the sun set frorn Masca, a

Millwall or Munich.And ifit does all get a bit nluch,you can easily escapc weshvards to thc provincc's other islands,as yct not

・ Roanling the streets Of La

village with a stunning iocation

く :)rotava's

atrnOsphenc Old tOwn

ncarly as saturated.

Hisbry

′ I・

As eisewhere in the isiands, sugar

enerife was the last island to fall to the

Spanish,and thc Guanches did nOt give up Witho■ anght(sec Histov inthe Factsabout thC ISiandS Chapter). The iSiand'S nanle

becarne the main export crop,thcn followed by wine as South Anlcrican sugar undercut the market.A lot ofthe wine was produccd

appearsto havc bccn coincd by the people of

on Tlcnerin),giving it an cnviable edge ovcr

La PalmL WhO knew it as Tinerit― White Mountain(■ om r′ ″′″,mountain,andグ υ ,

whitc)― since a‖ they could usuany see was the snow‐ capped pcak of・ Ileide. ■ nerit like itS nei』 bOur and COmpeti―

tor(Gran Canaria,soon attacted a big chunk

the other isiands. So rnuch so that, cvcn when the irnpo■ ance Ofthe wine tadc di‐ rniniShed, the iSiand'S OVerall dOFninanCe renlained intact until well into thc 19th ・ Century. 「 his prornptcd Madrid to deciare S帥 鯰 Cmz,by then the islmd's main pO威 ′ the Capital(of the Canaries in 1821. 「 he gα )d and the grcat ofLas Palmas remained ,

ofthe sc■ lers cOnling ttont Spain,Po“ ugal, Italtt Fralce and cvcn Britain.

185

186 1sla de′ riencrife―

Maps

Madrid inally decided to splitthe archipel‐

Playa de las Am6ricas and other slpots is not a bad investnlent.

ago into two provinces,with Santa Crt2 the provincial capital ofllenerife,La Palma,La

Activities

Gomera and EI Hierro.Today,S′ m餞 Cruz

The whole gamut ofspons,nrom diving tO

shares the duties of regional capital of all

sailing,■ shing to windsuring,is available

scvcn islands with its eternal rival, Las Palmas.

on thc isiand.Most of the activity is con‐

incensed about this lor a century, until

centratcd in and around the resort arca of Playa de las AIn6ricas.

Maps The Editorial Everestlmap(grecn cover)of the isiand(1:150,000)with st"et plans of Pue減o de la Cruz,La Laguna,La C)rotava,

Hiking is another possibility.There are 21 nlarked trails through the Parquc Na― cional de las Caiadas del ■leide, and IC)C)NA publishes siinple hiking rnaps for

ザ `L“

ATLANTIC OCEAN ﹄“

valle ae

一 ¨ l

К ①> Isla de Tene

fe

Isia de Tenerine―

othcr areas, such as the Anaga nlountain arca in tlle nc)rth_east and around the Valle de la(Drotava― the tOurist Ofice in Santa (E〕

ruz stocks sOme Ofthese.

Accommodation While inding a r00m is generally not such a problem in Santa(C〕 rllz and the northern half of the island,the sarnc cannot bc said for the resOrt areas Ofthe sOuth,particular―

Accommodation 187

(250 ptas),om 8.10am t。

10 pm.It's about

a20-minutc ride. Bus No 341 depans hourly'om 6.50 1or Santa Cruz(about l%

´ hours; 700 ptas). riaxis to Los Cristianos

and Santa Cruz respectivcly cost about 2000 ptas and 6000 to 7000 ptas.´ hcy do 「 multihire,but charge per persOn in this case. rene′ ire」 vO′ fe The remaindcr of sched_ uled international and nlainiand flights use

ly around lし os CristianOs and Playa de las Am6ricas.Arriving here at night without a rcscrvation can be a dOdgy business,cven

the older and smaller Los Rodeos airpon (● 922257940).This is alsO where prac‐

in iow season.It can bc a trial■

an cxchange booth,some car rcntal reps,a bar and an inforination dcsk where yOu can

nding an cx‐

pensive rooin,let a10ne sorncthing modest! くaiada Blanca has the Only established CanlPing grOund on the island (near lLas :〕

tically all inter_isiand nights arrivc.There is

get a rnap of Santa Cruz butli■ le eise.

TITSA bus Nos 063,102,107 and 108 all

Ganetas in the south).However,thcК a∝ 17 other sitcs around thc island 、 vhere

hcad into Santa Cruz(20 ininutes; 150

camping is pOssiblc ifyou have Ofncial per_

away. Hcading west Of the airpOrt, thcy

rnission.Ask at the tourist ofnce in Santa

conncct with La Orotava(Nos 062&063),

([)nlz dc.Ilenerine or ca11 1'922 27 81 00 or

● 922630488.

ptas).1ヽ Io

062 goesto La Laguna,only 3krri

Puc■ o de la Cruz(Nos 102&103)and lcod

de los Vinos(Nos 107&108).Bus No 340

If you arc intcrested in staying in farm‐

´

houses either On enerife or the other isiands of thc province (La Palina, La I・

Goinera and EI Hicro),you nlight like to ・ contact И′ ο∫R″ ″αノ ′s(● 9222408 ″α″た″′ 16),Ca‖ e de Vinalba Hervis 4.They have

stops at thc airport on its way between Pucrto de la lCruz and Reina Sona, the Tenerife Sur airpo■

.

A taxi into Santa Cruz iom Tenerife lヽ

lortc costs around 1500 ptas.Thc fare to

Puerto de la Cruz is around 3000 ptas.

a Web sitc at cip.es/accan.

Ge

ng There&Away

Air There are two airpOrts On the isiand, with nights to all the other islands(eXCept

La Gomera,where the airpOrt is still under COnStruCtiOn),the SpaniSh Fnainland and a host of international dcstinatiOns.

アiene」 Me S″ r All intcrnational chartcr nights use the rnodcrn Rcina So■ a airp。 ■ (奮

922770050),about 20km cast ofPlaya

de las Arnё ricas.Most scheduled direct in‐

Sea For details of thc weekly ship iOin C`diz in mainiand Spain,see the(Getting

There&Away section. Thcrc are regular feriγ ,hydrofoil and jctお il scivices■ om Tenerit to alithe Other

isiands.I)etails appear in the Getting′rhere &Away sections of the apprOpriate desti‐ nations throuttOut thc chapter

Getting Around Bus TITSA(Transportcs lnterurbanos de Tenerit SA)buses run all over the isiand,

ternational flights and sOme flights to

as well as providing thc local bus service in

mainiand Spain also use this airpOrt. Hcrc you will ind:a halfdozen car rental

■e Capital,and Other maiOr CCntreS.If yOu

OfnCcs;a post ofncc;sevcral banks,AII・ Ms and exchange booths,and a mOdcst tourist

card. These cost 2000 ptas and are used

inforination ofice. TITSA Bus No 487

ally pay about 30%less per trip this way;

depans inore or less hourly for Los Cris‐

insert the card in the machine 10n the bus, tcll the driver where you are going and the

tianos(225,as)and Playa de las Am6ricas

intend to use the buses a 10t,get a lBOnObus instcad of buying nornlal tickets.乃 FiOu actu‐

188 Santa Crt2 de Tenerife一

Hi盤 olγ

an10unt is subtracted from the card.「 Fhe card is goodお r aly tip,intcК ity or local, thrOu」 10ut tte iSiald・

It alSO giVeS yOu half

Orienhtion Tlaking iPlaza de iEspaia as a centrc point, cverything of interest lies within a kilo‐

mete orless.Atthe westem extreme is the vhcrc you'1l arrive Estaci6n de Cuaguas, 、

price cntry into sorne of the isiand's inuseurns. Ifyou stick with norinaltickets,thcse are always bought on the bus itsel■

by bus,and to hc north― castぬ et口 ninal for jetお ils iom Lぉ Palmas.With the excep‐

e Musco Militar(near the jetお 11 1 0fSi鰤 むand nal),mOSt OfthC hand

tion of

Taxi'Ilaxis willtakc you anywhere you want on the island― butitis an expensive way to

ten

get around.You arc bettcr offhiring a car.

strcets which lead inland fiom Plaza de ´ Espaia. he tourist and post ofHces are

good shopping lie within thc ccntral grid of I｀

SantL CruZ de Tenerife

Father of GesLit :n 1913,atthe age of 26,the Cer:nan psycholo9istヽⅣO椰gang KOh!er:eft the hothouse of the lヨ uropean academic

´ ο′2θ αノθθ ・ ρ9p″ ′ `′

Capital ofthc isiand and the province ofthe

same nanc(taking in La Palma,La Gomera and El Hiero),Santa Cnlz de Tene t is a bustling iport city一 one ofthe busiest in all Spain.´ 「 he long harbour gives protection to

wo‖ d

and migrated to the Cana:γ

is!ands,whe薇 )he took up a post atthe Pruss:an Acadelmy Of Sciences in￢

ener―

ro.

Born in Tbl!inn,Estonia,and educated

countless container ships,cruise liners and

in!Be‖ in and Franki」 !t,KOhier iaunched

a host of intcr‐ isiand trries md jctbls.It

the cestat heory Or psychO10gy which atempts b understand Laming,peκ ep‐

is intcrcsting enough br a day or so,al‐

though sornewhat short on sights. With

1lon and other mentai prOCeSSeS in teFnS of strudured wholes.

good bus translpolltit rnakes a sensiblc base fbr exploring tlle noll:h― east of the isiand, and at least here you ibel you are tnlly in

VVhen in 1913 he elelcted to leave behind his co‖ eagues (including Kurt Koffka and Max We■ heimer)for sunnier clirnes, did he have an ink!ing of the madness that'was aboじ tto befa:ithe Eu‐ ropean Continent, Or WaS.he luSt plain

(1'anario territory, not the land of full English breakfasts and sauerkraut.

Hisbry

lucky? in any event, he pursued his

Alonso Fern`ndcz de lし ugo landed here in

studies in Tenenfe fOr the next seven

1494 to enlbark on the conquest of the toughest and last renlaining isiand in the ago,as archipelago.But Santa Cruz de Sa it was then known,got offto a slow s● ■ La Lagunち a tw kilomctres inland,blos‐ sOrned as thc isiand's capital, and Santa Cruz reinained a backwatcr until its po■ lourished in thc 18th and 19th centurics. Only in 1803 was Santa Cruz`liberated'by .

royal decree fronl the inunicipal control of

La Laguna,and in 1859 it was declered a city.Fronlthen on Santa Cruz neverlooked back, its pOrt giving it an advantagc lLa Laguna could ncver rnatch.

yeans, investigating among other things

ChimpanZeeS' CapaCiV fOr prob:em soiving and consti■ icting sirnple tools.

His lndings were eventua‖ y brought

‐ ′ ,lo′ ″ together in his ground‐ breaking ′

gerzp僣

ge″ a,Mensc力 era施 ″ (7カ θ es),pub“ shed in 1917,as Mo″ ia″ ry"″ O「 ハρ we!!as lother books.in 1921 he“ eturned to 13elin but,no 9reat fan of a rather dif‐

ferent and unメ eaSant kind Of Chimp― Adolf H忙 ler― he migrated to the USAln 1935.

Santa Cruz de Tlenerifc―

right on Plaza de Espaia.Mid‐ levcl hotels are he“ too,but cheapics and luxury jObs are rnorc widely scattered. ´ 「 he city is divided by the BFuTanco de los

Santos, a dry ravine. Apart ilo■ l thc bus station,stadiunl and producc market,li■ lc of intcrest is to be lDund sOuth―

west Ofthc

([〕

Inlonnation 189

uba and also organise tours around′

1■

Ilener‐

.

Nelwspaper The ″セσたみ′Cα ′α″ ″ iS a useful littlc paper that yOu can pick'αup■ ・ ee

at thc tourist ofnce(or pay 150 ptasお neWSStandS).

r at

divide.

BOOkshops,Canary Books Librerfa,Callc Map3 The small city centre map handed out by the tourist ofnce is reteshingly ac_ curate.

inforrnation ￢OuriSt O)f“ Ce

del General POrlier 79,is about as good as you'1l ind for noveis in iEnglish, Frcnch and Gcrinan in Santa Cruz. One ofthe bcst bookshops thrOughOutthc

islands for books on the Canary lsiands l｀ hc()icina

de lnfonnaci6n Turistica(● 922605592)is in the Cabildo lnSular de´ renerife,Plaza de Espana s/n.It

l■

ust be Librerfa Goytcc, Calle.de P6rez

・ he whole upstairs nOOr is Gald6s 15. 「

devoted to every pOssible wOrd written in,

opens iom 8 am■ o6pm Monday to Frida光 and iom 9 am t0 1 pm Saturday.They have

and,or about the islands.(1)f course nearly all of it is in Spanish,but if yOu intend tO

quite a lot of inforination and mOst staff speak English and one Or tw0 0ther lan‐ guagcs besides Spanish.・「 he pc)stcOdc for

become an authority on the isiands,this is where to buy lyour book collection― they havc everything■ om thc mOst Obscurc his―

Santa(C)ruz de Tlcncrife is 38080.

torical treatiscs to cook books, studies Of Oora,geography and C;anarian literature.

FOreign(Consulates For a list of foreign COnsulates in Santa Cruz,see the EInbassics section in the Facts for the Visitor chapten

′ Laundry・ 「 he Lavanderia Autose〕 ぃicio at Calle de San Antonio 59 is the only self‐ service laundrette in Santa lC〕 ruz.It opens

Money´ rhere are banks all over the centre ・iendly´ f「 Ms.A oftoWn,■ lost with user‐ ■ fcw are located on thc map.

ion19 am to l pm and 5to 7 pm Mondayto Friday,8 an tO noon Saturday.A4kg load willcost 1500 ptasto、 vash and dryinanhoun

Post&(Conlmunications′「 he main pOst

Mledica:Sen′ ices The best hOspital is the

and 4 to 10 prn Monday to Friday,lrom 9

towards La Laguna. A 24‐ hour doctor's selvicc opcrates tt Hospiten Rambla(iec

anl to 2 prn and 4 to 8 prn iweekends and

phonc'902200144),Rainbla dcl Gcncral

holidays.｀ ou can send faxcs lionl the pOst

Franco l15.

onEce is on PI〔 口盟.de Espaia.For phones, try theノο ′ ο′ブ ο at Paseo de las Milicias de Garachico `″ 3. It opens lヒ orn 9 anl to 2 prn

Yζ

Hospital dc lヽ Iuestra Seiora de la Candelar‐ ia(● 922602000),o∬ the TF‐ 5 hittway

ofnce. Ennergency For an arnbulance you can call

Ema〃 ヽζ ou

can get onto the Nct at Bar Ciber

El Navegante,Calle」 6n del Coinbate 12.

the Cruz Roja(Red CЮ ss)on奮

9222818

00.T｀ he Policfa lヽ lacional is at Avenida del

′

rres de Mayo 32.

Travei Agencies The city is fairly swann― ing with travcl agencies.A rcliablc inn is Halc6n Vittes(● 922249371)― they have a branch at Plaza del〈 :lcneral Weyler 9.

Vittes del Rosal(● 922 22 2445), Avenida de 1361gica 3,spccialise in travel to

Museunns Thc“ are three museums you may wantto have a look at whilc in Santa Cruz.「 Fhe Museo deia Naturaleza y EI HO,71bre,re―

opencd in late 1997 and easily the most

190 Santa Cruz de llcnerife―

Museums

“   閾      ・

﹄ 曝， ■ ”“¨  〓●

0 “

” ¨

電い

0

ゆ “

F

該 `

○

Santa Cruz de Tene fe ArLANTIC OCEAN

interesting,

houscs

sevcral (〕

uanche

Flemish artists(including Bruegel),as well

nlurnrnies and skulis,a handftll of artefacts

as sculpture,a、 veapons collection and old

including pottery, and a nicely arranged

coins.Itis open iom 10 am to 7.30 pm(in

natural sciences section.´ Ille rnuseum is ill a

summer it closes for an hour at l.30 pm), Monday to Friday.Entry is lrcc.

n)1.ncrhospita1 0n thc cOrnerofcalle de san

SebastianandAvenidadeBravoMurillo.It is

opcn■ ol■ 10 am to 8 pm daily cxcept Monday.Admission costs 400 ptas(200 ptas forbearersofTr「 SABonobuscards;100ptas t)r ttudentS),butiS iCe On Sunday

The Museo de Be‖ as Anes,on Plaza dcl iPrincipe de Asturias, is hoine to an eclcctic mix of paintings by Canarlan and

Finany,war bufis might want to check out the Museo Militar de Al『 neyda,on cane de san lsidr。 .The most fanous itcm herc is El′ rigre(The Tiger), the cannon which blew off Nelson's arin when he at‐ tacked Santa C'ruz.It opens flom 10 am to

2 pm daily except Monday,and adrnission is ttee.

Santa Cruz de′ IleneriR,一 Around the Centre 191

OTHER

PLACES TO STAY 2 Hotel Mencey 3 Hotel

cOntempOraneO 7 Hote!Tiaburiente

31 Casa de Hu6spedes (E)asablanca 32 1Pensi6n'Vlalverde

34 Pensi6n Mova

44 Estaciln Marlima Mue‖ e

5` Lavando● H03p10n R3mb13 3 Aub腱Ⅳlα o 3 Kidざ Sw ng3 and

merazas

Navegante

9 Ayuntamiento 10 (3obierno de

48 Libreria Goメ ec

Canar:as

42 Pensi6n Rivera 45 Pensi6n Ce,aS

ll Correos y Tellgrafos 12 1ierrazas

59 Hotel Atlantico

14 Bar Sucre

61 Pensi6n(Dviedo

63 HotelAnaga

15 CeⅣ eceria Rhin 16 Canary Books

64 Hotel EI Dorado 75 Hotel Tanaus`

17 Metro

Libreria

PLACES TOI EAT

4 Mes6n E!Port6n

6 Sidreria Mariano 13 La Lateria

24 Bar/Restaurant

27 Mes6n

Caste‖ ano lolante o｀ ピ

28 Plati‖

29 Restaurante Vu‐

52 Museo de Bellas Artes 53 1glesia de San Francisco

54 Locutorio 55 3arclays Bank 56 Belgian Consulate(& Alo,amientos Runles 57 Austrian 10onsulate

58 1Discos Manzana

1 9 Multicines(3reco 20 Multicines()scar's 21 Viajes del Rosal

60 1rish Consuiate

22 Discoteca Ku 23 Deutsche lBank

67 015 Busto La Laguna

Barclays i3ank

30 Mes6n TTeinta yC)cho

49 1CONA

1 8 Multicines Price

25 UK Consulate&

Do

Ribera&

Lineas Fred O!sen Ferry:Departures 46 Bar Ciber EI

26 Halc6nヽ ハajes 33 :talian(1)onsulate

35 Cueva de

62 Teatro Guimer 66 (Correos y‐ Tielё grafos

68 Centro de:niciativas y ・ 「 urismo 69 Tlourist C)fnce

70 Naviera Arrnas Ferry Departures 71 1glesia de la

)oncepci6n

36 Bar Crist6bal

llnguaro 37 Museo Militar de

72 Museo de la lNatu‐

47 Mes6n del Duque

Almeyda 38 Non,vegian,Swedish&

73 Rastro(Sunday Flea

Tiera2a3

74 Bar Mercado

ｒ ａ     ｌ

65 P,a`a de

′ｒ ｎ Ｖ

51 Caf`dol

ｉ ｒＧ 日Ｐ

10C“ OL13

中山 ¨ Ⅷ ︶

41 Bar3 de MayO

IDanish Consulates

39 Tam Tam

(Ξ

raleza y EI Hombre Market)

76 French Consulate

40 Nooctua ‐

43 rrasmediterr6nea Ferry IDepartures

77 (〕 anarias・ Trekking

78 Policia Nacional 79 Castillo de lSan Juan

Around the Centre

blocks,bring you to the Museo de lBellas

Apart iom the museums,there is really not

Artes and,ncxt doot the lglesia de lSan Francisco,a baroquc church built in thc

an awilllotto scc in Santa Cruz.Itis a busy

pOn city(and One OfSpain'S tnOSt impOrtant in tennS OftOnnage)and Si:nply ineandering around the lplacc is a plcasant way t()、

vhile

17th and 18th centurics.

Three small blocks south― west of Calle del Castillo is the city's 19th‐ ccntury

away the day.staning a wander,Om the

Teatro Guilnera,whose austere fa9ade

wttcr'ont Plaza dc Espana,whose cenLe‐

belies a rather sulmptuous interior.Back towards the 、 vaterfront, on Plaza de la

picce is a somcwhat controversial mcmorial to the fallen ofthe 1936-39 Civil War,you could head inland along Plaza de la(3ande‐ laria and the pedestrianised shopping strip

of Calle del Castillo. A right turn along Callc de Jos6 Murphylぃ うll,aiter a couple of

lglesia,rises the striking bell tower of the city's oldest church,the lg:esia deia Con‐ cepci6n.´ 「 he present church dates to about

the sallle era as the lglesia de San Francis―

co, but the original building

、 vcnt up in

192 Santa Cruz de´「 enerife― Language Courses

tours ofthc isiand and to・ Ilenerife's smaller

cousins,La Golnera and EI Hierro. Canarias Trekking(‐ /fax 922 20 10 51), CaliC de QueVed。 1, OrganiSeS hikeS all over the isiand.´

「 heirヽ Veb

site is ati canari‐

astrekking.conl.

Special Events carnaval is r力 a event in santa cruz, throughout the isiand,and,lor that rnatter, the Canarian 16csta par excellence,in inost

people's eyes.Only Rio de Janeiro does it bettet and even tllat far:lous part)′ doesn't OAMlEN SIⅨ )NIS

Construction ofthe lgiesia de la

Concepci6n began in 1498

overshadow Santa Cruz's efiForts by a great deal.The filn begins in eを u・ ly Fcbnlary and

lasts about three weeks.Many ofthe gala perfornlances and fhncy dress cornpetitions

take place in the Recinto Ferial(fair 1498. I)orninating the altar is the silver Santa CruZ de la COnquiSta(HOly CrOSS Of

grOundS),but ie StreetS,eSpeCia‖ y arOund

the COnqueSt),WhiCh gaVC the City itS name.

landish activity as the whole isiand seems to participate in■ lasked balls and an ainlost pcrmanent state of good‐ naturcd flivolity. leedless to say,inding a place to stay any‐ where in Tenerife at this til■ e without an advance booking is a rather tall order. ´ he fOunding ofthe city is celebrated On 3 May,but this a sober affair in cornparison

CheCk Out the anterOOm tO the SaCriSty(tO the ri』 t Ofthe alta). ・ he retablo in thc side chapcl was carved I｀

from cedar on the orders of I])on Matias Carta, a prominent personagc 、 vho died before it was colllpleted― he lies buried llerc and tlle pallid pol■

rait on the wall was

dOneイ タ ′′hiS death(henCe the CIoSed eyeS

Pl`u夕l de Espaia,burst into a ienzy of out‐

1ヽ

r｀

to the Camaval.

and CrOSSed arinS).

About anothcr 10‐ minute walk south‐ 、 vcst along thc watcrfiont brings you to thc 1 7th‐ ccntur/Castillol de lSan Juan.In the shadow ofthis protective fort there used to be a lively trade in Aniican siaves.

When you've had enough of all that,

make for the pretty Parque de Carcia Sanabria, whcrc kids will be delightcd with slidcs and ridcs and you can sit down 偽r co■ e at a shady teraa鯰ble.

Piaces to lStay… budget For a city its size,there are not too many budget places to get a bed.lf you arrive by air,call iom the airpo■ and try to secure a

rooin before coming into the centre and

si:nply wandering around. The problem with inost of the dirt cheap places is that they arc none too inviting. Gα sα ″ ″″■ θ ″ s Casα b′ α α (● 922

“ 15,has 278599),Ca‖ e de Viera y Clavijo tiny,cell‐ like singles/`ioubles for 2500/3800

∝田Ｚロトロ０ く嘉￠一´ 四Ｌ一 ︲ ︲  ●

lf the university at iLa Laguna doesn't

′ 「 he conlinunal bathrooins can be a linle On the nose, the beds are mOre likc

appeal, enquire at the Escuela O■ cial de

harnrnocks and the place is noisy.Still,it's

Language Courses

ptas.

Vittes del Rosal(see Travel Agents above),

bearable. ・The ncarby P′ ″s′ δ″ ン ι′ a′ ッ “ (● 922274063),Callc dc Sabino Bcrthelot 46, is a rathcr uniicndly locale and oncn llll.´ hey charge 2500/3500 ptas. P′″sあ ″Cり αs(● 922281872),at Cane

is one of several agents which organisc

de San Francisco 47, is a fairly gioomy

ldiomas(● 922283712),Ca‖ e de Rubens Marichal L6pcz 12.

C)rganised Tours

lι

I｀

:言

計

.￨

Vegetation of ls:a de!a Palrna

Playa de la Ralta,La Dama,southern lsla de la Gomera

Santa Cmz de・ Tlencrifc― Places to Stay 193

The Luck cr the l‖

‐

sh

On 12 Janualy 1809,LoolpDido()'Donne::saw the light‐ oflday in Sanね ICruz de Teneト nD.1譴 range name fOr a Sわ aniard,:et a:one a Cana薔 o?い re‖ t yes.Lmlo Leop。 !do was a descendant ofthe O'Donneilfamiり ,one of many: sh dans■ hich■ ed the Emeraid:s:o

aflerthe disaster ofthe Batb of he Boyne back in 16〔 Ю (the dreet name Jos6 Muphy iS al難 :e had to swa‖ ow,and O'Shanahan is another good cana"o namel). PettapS it WaS a bit Oithe Blamey and SOme■ hlng:nSh SpiFit WhiCh Sd L● op。 ldo On the road of the soidie卜 pO:itician.Ho,::ke lust about anyone e:se hoping to make a

mark in the SpaniSh■ 。 「ld in thOSe dayS,headed l)rthe main:and iu゛ aS SoOn aS he cou!d.Astaunch conservative and partiSan of Queen isabei:l,he played a distinguished role in the First Cadist War(1833・ ・39),ater which he ended up exi:ed in France.Howevel C)'1)Onnel!waS destined to have rnore comebacks than Lazarus,and in 1843 he he:ped Stage a∞ up to oustthe govemment of General Ba:domeЮ Espartem.0'Donne‖ 'sp‖ ze WaS the Cap● inCygenem:of Cuba,which he held from 1844 b 1848. He was soon backin Maddd,and in 1854 staged yet another revoit― flom which he emerged aS minister10r war Heading the govemment again was Espartero,but O'Don‐ neil eased him o● li lllo years iater and became prime minister He lasted on:y for椰

eiw

rVionths,but returned to powerin 1858,and rerTlained themD for ive years.During that time Spain“ mained uncharadendica:ly.sね b!e and O'Donne‖ made a namefo「 himser in the、 ″ arin Mo“ ,cco,eventua‖ y receiving the titie Duque de■ etuan. Aner a break l「 Om leadersh:p,he retumed to head the 9overnrnentin 1865‐ 66,btit Queen:sabe!was disp:eased by his comparatively conc‖ iatO:γ approach towards the op‐ pOsniOn.lshe may vre!:have regreted herdecision tO repiace him,。 ne of her iΥ lost faithi』 supporters:0'Donne!lsa、 ″輌t to:eave the country,and died the fO:!owing yearin Bia“ itz in the French Basque Country:isabellost her throne a year:ate■

!

place,and only of]iers double roorns at 4000

Places to Stay― middie

ptas.

″ た′7と ,″ α″sプ

j″ Pθ バ ′

iο

Rル ′″

(■

922249932),Cane

(●

922217000),Cane de

Padre Ancieta 8,is OK but a little pricey for

de San Martin 6,htt slitttly bc“ cr rooms

what you gct at 4000/6000 ptas.Much

for 3500 ptas.A nunhcr improvement is

be■ er is〃ο′ 物 b″ ″ た″た (●

Pa′ 霞′ δ″ ルイ ονα (■

922283261),up the

road at No 33.Just for a change,they havc singles too.Rooins cost 1700/3200 ptas. Лiο ′ ο′И″αgα (● 922245090),Calle de lrneldO Seris 19,is a littie ragged´ ound the 『 bath md edges,butthe rooms with private sho、 ver arc big and have a phonc.T｀

922276000),

`′ Callc dc Jos6 Naveirs 24A.The rooms havc

TV, phone and private bath, arc nicely maintained and stt at 7800/8500 ptas. Mo“ central is″οた′И′ ′ ′ たο(● 92224 6375),Calle del Castillo 12,where singleダ `″ doubles cost 6000/8000 ptas.

hcy cOst

3200/5400 ptas(plus 4.5% IGIC)for

Piaces to Stay― top end

singles/doubles in low scason, or 4200/

Лiο た′E′ Dο″ αdο

6900 ptas in high season. If yOu havc the

la Cnlz Vierde 24,is also central,but charges

few extra pesetas,this is the hotel ofchoice

a he町 10,500 ptas b doubles.

in its range.

eise Lils,ル ″sあ ″ Oν ため (● 922 243643)at Calle del Doctor AHa■ 24 has

A much better deal is rrο ′ (〕 ο″′ ′ `′ `′ `― ′οttω (● 922271571;は 9222712 23),Rambla del Gene鯰 l Franco l16,where

doubles for 3000 ptas.

singlcs/doubles start at 6500/8500 ptas.

If a‖

(●

922243184),Cane de

194 Santa Cruz de Tenerife―

Places to Eat

If it's class you want and mOney is nO

ottect,headお r」ο′ ′′M`″

(●

Sf′ ″ ′″Fα

9222767

00:fax 922 28 00 17),([,alie `ク del[)octor Jos6

Naveiras 38.Here you can pay upto 24,500

ルイ α′′ α″ο,

Calle de M6ndez

16icz 33,is the place to go if you're han― kcring for an Asturian(no■ herll Spanish)

Tヽ

ptas for a double.

style cider to wash down your meaL ル E′ Pο ″ ′ 6″ , Calle del Doctor `asb″ Gulgou 18,ls a swantt SO■ Of eatc,With

Places to Eat

inc food at inc priccs-1llains stanl at

Blreakfast You probably wouldn'tgo out of your way lor it,but Bα ″3″′ルイ 'ο ,Calle

around 1400 ptas.Also a little pricey but highly rcgarded is Mas`″ cαsた 〃α″。,cane

de Canao de Lima 4.

`り de la Marina 93,is not bad for breakfast,cs― pecially with ali the great juices on Offier

(papaya,StraWber:ぅ′etC).

CafOS&Terra2aS Caf6S are StreWn all

Bc● cr stinぉ rthejuices md iuit shakes is P″ ″′ ′ οレ 0′ α ″た,Canc dc Canao de Lima 3.Actuantt thcy arc gre■ 載 any time of

about thc city. 13ccausc of the pleasant clinlate, nlany have tables sct up outside and makc grcat placcs to sip and、

vatch.

C`′ ″ ′P″ ″αiク θ,right On the leafy

day!

Plaza del Principe de Asturias,is a lovely ng for a comee or cocktan.c″ υ″′ ″ E′ Иgン プ ′ α,on Plaza del A116rez Provisional,is

Restaurants lf cheap is the rnain require‐

se

nlent,you necd to scarch out l)ars with a ´

comedor attached. 「 he sign `comidas

another livcly spot.

CaSCraS'(hOnnC― COOkCd nlCalS)iS a g00d lead.Bα″C″ おrび bα ′ ,Calle de la Rosa 75 is one such place. 1｀ he foOd is ■lling and won't set you backl nlore than 1000 ptas.

Anlong the terrazas, pleasant placcs to 、 vhilc away your tirnc includc thosc on

Plaza de la Candelaria and Ranlbla dcl General Franco(ne"the Plaza de ToЮ s);

The■イasO″ (イ′′D″ 9“ θ,Calle de lleobal― ‐ do Po、 ver 15,has wine bal■ els for tables and a ine old wooden bar― a perfect spot for a

thc shady onc on thc edge ofthe Parque de

glass of red and a raci6n of tortilla con chorizo一 or head to the restaurant out thc back and try a plate ofgambas alI)uque con

3α ″M′´ cα d。 ,right anid the nca market on

champliones y jam6n(pmwns with mush‐

Entedain『 rlent Cinelmla Three cinema complexes keep the

rooms and ham)lor 1250 ptas. R′ srα ″′ α″′ ′ /″ _2:)。 , calle de viera y

([〕

arcfa Sanabria. ()n Sundays,a great place to hang out is

Cane de Jos6 Manuel Guimer`.

locals happy.Ylour only hopc of seeing un‐

dubbCd(ν ο″ Sあ ″οガg′ ″α′―ИO)moVieS iS at

Clavijo 44,is a so‐ caned Vietnamese spot, although a lot of the fOod 10oks like lyour

averagc intcrnational Chinese fare. It's a pleasant enough placc to eat though, and

Multicines Price(● 922289459),Calle de Salainanca 16.Otherwise,mainstrcarn Hol‐

lywood movics,dubbcd into Spanisll,can be scen at Multicines(:)scar's,Aivcnida de

nlakcs a changc.

I)own the road at No 38,1`υ s`″ 7)′ ′ ″′ α ツ Oε 力ο is an elegant place where ine Ca― narian food is prepared― do not expect to get away for rnuch less than 2000 ptas. A linie more down― to‐ earth is ιαZα ′ ′″″

,

B`lgica 8‐ 10;and Municines Greco,Calle

de Luis dela Cruz l.Occasiona‖ y the Caia Canarias bank sponsors art house ■lin cycles― kccp your eycs on the local papers for detalls.

an attractively decorated old (Clanarian

house,with iots ofexposed wood beams,at ´ alle de Benavides 32. 「 his place gets ([〕

pretも′liVCly at lunCh time・

´ he unnarnedbar/restaurantrightonI)laza de Pedro Schwartz is popular.The food is I｀

average butthe shady 10catiOn a big plus.

Bars,Pubs&Discos Bar Sucre,Clalle de Castro 15, is a busy little hangout, and usually packcd with locals and serving up

good arcpas should you need food with your becr. lf you like the rough, spit― and― sawdust

Santa Cruz de・ renerife― Spectator Spon 195

edge of neighbourhood bars,the Cueva dc

5 to 8 prn on weekdays.For nlore infornla―

inguaro,(E〕 alle de la Rosa 72,is a person‐ al favourite.′ here is nOt really anything tO

, 922 29 16 99 or tion call the club on ■ ●

T・

「

reconl:nend this place― unlcss yOu feel like a bit of10ca1 8Fit,beer swilling and inixing with loud patrons. (:)therЧ ′ ise, therc arc o or three cOn‐ ccntrated arcas of″ α´ ε力α.There's a bunch Of barS■ PlaZa de ISabel II(alSO SignpOSt‐

ed as the continuation of〈 alle de San Vicentc Ferrer),and more along Calle de :〕

Ram6n y Cttal.Ifyou a‐ e dying for a Guin‐ ness then head for Cervecerfa lRllin at No 74. I‐

Iowever,thc pcak of the nightlift takcs

'922240613.

Things to Buy A lot oftourists come to Santa Cruz for the

shopping, largely because Of the(〔 〕 anary lsiands' status as a tax haven. The main shopping strip is the pedestrianised Calle del Castillo and surrounding streets.Calle

del lPilar is for rnorc snooty shOppers

(there's a Core lng16s and Marks&

SpenCe→ .The mOSt pr01niSing dCalS are On elcctronics, watches etc, 1)ut even itenns such asjeans arc wOnh cOnsidcring.

oriom about2 am along Avenida de Fran‐

cisco La Roche, around Calle de la

(1)n a nlore souvcnir‐

oricntcd lcvel, the

Rep6blica de Honduras.Tam Tam at No 39

embroidery work in the shops along(Calle del Castillo is atractive,and you can even

and rヾ ooctua next door at No 37 are both

buy traditional Canarian dress.

good.

(1)n sundays thcre is a

(I)fthe fOur discOs arOund to、

vn,the only

Vaguely handy (and n10re pOpular)。 ne iS Discoteca Ku,Avenida de Madrid s/n(it's acmany in thc Parquc La Grania).

″ asr´。 r inea , 。

nlarkct, along Calle de Jos6 Manuel (〕

uimeri and Avenida de Bravo Murillo,

just by the produce market― the McК ado de Nuestra Seiora dc A■ ica.

ng There&Away

Theatre & Ciassicai Music Thc city's

Ge

lnain centrc for the presentation Of high

Air Becausc Tcncrifb is seived by two air‐

brow entcnainment, whether inusic Or theatre,isthe Teatro GuimeM('9222908

ports at cithcr end Of the isiand,see the Getting There&Away scction atthe begin‐ ning ofthis chapten

38),on Cane de lmeldo Scris.The biggest cvcnt on the serious inusic calendar is thc Festival dc・

M`sica de Canarias,hcld annu.

ally in January‐ :Fcbruary.

Bus TITSA buses leave■ om the Estaci6n de Guaguas(● 922218122),on the corner ofAvenida del・ res de Mayo and(Clalle del I｀

Live Music Big nalme acts tend to pcrforin at the Pl`減 髪 l de Toros or the Recinto Ferial. Ask at the tourist ofnce if anything is on and how to gcttickets,as o■en a bank such as lLa(Claixa beconnes the tenlpOrary box ofnce for such events. I)iscos Manzana, a record storc at(〕 alle de Jos6 Murphy 2, o食en sclls tickets to the big gigs.

Fomento.Thcy go to pretty inuch all desti―

nations that are of intercst arOund the isiand, including: Playa de las Arn6ricas

(875 ptas);Pueno de la Cruz(500 ptas); Icod dc los Vinos(700 ptas);and La Laguna (150 ptas).

Car&Motorcycle To head Out oftOwn 10r the、vest or south,take thc Aivenida del.Tres

Spechtor Spo戯

de MayO and lollow the signs forthe TF‐ 5

Footbaii Santa Cruz is hoine to the only

(the autovia br La Laguna,Tenerit No■ c

Canarics tcam in the nrst division,CD Tenerife.You necd to buy tickets at icast a

WCCk in adVanCe at the rα 夕″」 ′ ′ αs (bOX o価 ce)ofthe Estadio Hcliodoro Rodriguez L6pcz,which open■ om 10am t。 l pm and

airpOrt and Pue■ O de la Cru2)Or thC TF‐

1

(the autovfa br Tcncrit Sur ai甲 o■ ,Los Cristianos and Playa de las Am6ricas).To head no■ h,f0110w the water,Ont rOad nol“ h and signs for Piaya dc las・ Ileresitas.

196 Around thc lsland―

Re"`a′

Car‐ rental

La Laguna

cOmpanies are scatered

al1 0VCr thC Ciけ CCntrC,aS Well aS SeVeral at

to Friday,and ilom 9 anlto l.30 pm Satur― day.

the Estaci6n Maritilna.

TaXi The City taXiS uSe their meterS(Or Ferry The nery to Cadiz(see under Sca in the Ge ng There&Away chapter earherin

thiS b00k)leaVeS OnCe a Week'Om Tener‐

should do).The flagfall is 150 ptas.Aner that,you pay 50 ptas per kilometre. Sur― charges of 55 ptas are imposed for:travel

ife at 8 anl on l″

beh″een 10 p■ land 6 am;travel on Sunday

7ednesday,stopping in Las

Palmas de Gran Canaria and Arrecifc (Lanza・ ote)en route.The trip takes a couple of days.

Trasmcditerrinea has occasional ferries to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and ivejet― lolls a day(three on Sundays).(For inore details see the Las Palinars Getting・

「

here&

Away section. See the sarne section for detans on thc NNiera AImas t es.) Lineas Fred(Dlsen has fbur felTies a day

to Agacte, in the no世 h‐ west of Gran

and holidays;fares to the docks area;and for each piecc of luggage carried. A ride

nrom the Estaci6n de(Guaguas into the Centre On a ヽ VeCkday (WithOut luggage) should cost around 300 ptas.

Around the island LA LAGUNA α′ 」 ノαθθθ ο′ノ ・ ρο P″ ′

Calnaria.´ rickcts cost 2700 ptas.

Tickets for・「 rasinediterranea and Fred Olsen are available at the Estaci6n Mariti―

Onc ofthc o urban jewels in■ nerit's crown(La OЮ tava is the other),theお riner

ma Mucne de Ribera(which is where the

capital and lively student town of San

Fred Olsen boatsleave iom),or iom travel agents.Trasl■ editeninea's ferries icave ,om further north― east a10ng the quays,and lヽ IavieraAnnas boats depa■ 11ヽ ■ her along to the south‐ west,where they have a separate

Crist6bal de la Laguna(to give it its■

111

namC)deSeiVeS a ViSit.It iS an eaSy day trip

iom Santa Cruz or Puerto de la Cruz and should not be rnissed.

History

tickct ofnce.

Alonso Fernandez dc ILugo's inerry band of

Jefo‖ Trasmediteranea'sLぉ

Palmas jet―

troopers ended up rnaking a permanent

foils ieave ■om the Estaci6n Maritima

Bus TITSA buses provide the city scivice

camp in whatis now known as Iン a lL,aguna (the lag。 。n nrom which the name comes was only drained in 1837). By thc end of thc 15th ccntury,the old town as it is today was prctty much com‐ plcte, and the Muy Noble, 1lustre, Lcal y Fiel Ciudad de San C'rist6bal de la Laguna

in Santa Cruz,as well as the intercity buses.

(The Very Noble,I‖ ustrious,Loyal&

No 914 gocs fronl the Estaci6n de Guaguas to the centre(Plaza del General Weyler and Plaza dc Espan→

Faithnul City of Saint Christopher of the Lagoon)was a bustling city of inerchants, soldicrs,burcaucrats and the plous.In 1701 the university was cstablishcd, and still nourishes today.

Muelle Norte.You can get tickets herc or at travel agents.´ hc standard fare is 5600 ptas I｀

(3200 ptas onlpcak).

Getting Around

_

Car&Motorcyc:e As in any Spanish city, thc trafnc can get a littie much in santa cruz.c)thenvise it is not terribly difncult t。

navigate,but parking is tough.Most ofthe Centre haS metered parking(up tO tWO hOurS for 200 ptas).You must use the meters iom 9 am to l.30 pnl and 4.30 to 8 pnlヽ

4onday

Orien● tion ´ 「 he Estaci6n de Guaguas is about a 10‐ ■linute walk to the south‐ west of the old Centre(`α SCο

力お あ ″た ο).The uniVerSiり lieS to the south ofthe casco,and that's where

Around thc lslalnd―

you'11 1lnd the bulk of the bars and plenty

Of simple cateries.Wh江

l

le accommoda‐

La Laguna 197

】 3uiltin 1593 and caren■ 1ly restored since,it

houses the Museo de la Historia de

tion is available is in the casco,as are sorne

Tenerife_The dOcurnents,inaps,anefacts

nice restaurants,banks,the post ofice and

an(l dcscriptions are interesting enough

tourist of6ce.

(text available in English),butthe mansion alonc is worth looking ove■

information Tourist orice The infoHnation kiosk is right on Plaza dcl Adelantado, and opens IIOFn 8.30 anl to 7 pm daily cxcept Sunday.

″′ И″ r`ε ′ α′″′′ ,″ ′ οοグ ιαιαg″ ″α,a brochure cα scο ″′ sr`″ 」 cxplaining thc evolution of stylc in house

IBlc sure tO get a copy of ￨′

building over thc ccnturies.

The TIVE student travcl organisation (●

922259630)is at Cane de Heraclio

it opcns lrorn

・ lo ani to s pnl ruesday tO saturdaly, and

iom 10 am to 2 pm Sunday.Admission is 400 ptas(200 ptas with TITSA Bonobus; 100 ptaS fOr StudentS). Calle de San Agustin and thc surrounding streets are lined with iine。 ld houses.・ rakc

a100k insidcthc Casa del Montan6s atlヽ Io 16.´ rhc patio of No 28,part of thc univer‐ sity administrttion,is equany inspiring.The

Casa de:os ICapitanes Cenerales,next door to the Ayuntanliento (town ha11)on

S`nchez 40. is no sho■age of banks all over the centre oftown.

Calle del()bispo Rey Redondo,is a li■ le ´ rundown, but quite beautiful. 「 here are Others about too,so keep your eyes pecled.

Post&(Communications・ 「 hc

Churches&Convents

´

Money 「 here

inain post

ofnce is ncxt to the lglesia dc sant。 I〕 )。

iningo,on the street of the sarne narne.

・rhe postcode for La Laguna is 38200.

Medical&Emergency There is a Centro dc Salud(clinic)at Cane de San Agustin 54.

FOr ambulances,the Cruz Rola(Red CЮ ss: ● 922259626)is at Cane de los Hermanos Ma:Tero l.The Policfa Nacional are at Cane de Nava y Griin6n 66.

Perhaps less enchanting,becausc less orig‐

inalto the eyes ofanyone who has seen the great cathedrals and nlonastcries of main‐ land iEurope,are La I」 aguna's contributions to religious architecture.

´

「 he lg:esia de la Concepci6n wasthe isiand's irst, but has undcrgone rnany changcs. Elernents of gothic and plater‐ csquc can still be distinguishe(1,and inside

′ s。 ″ αぁ ,the ceilings are“ ― the″ a″α″″′ “ mirable.YOu can Only visit f:onl 10.30 al■

Canarian Mansions

to 12.30 pm.

Apan frOIT,the ine‐ balconied houses ofLa Orotava,La Lagunais where you w‖ l most fully appreciate the beauty and eccentricity

esting(Catedral was completely rebuilt in

of Canarian urban architecture ― bright

chapel dedicated tO tlleヽ

vo()den fa9ades graccd with ponderous ヽ double doors and pretty balconies. Broad, elegant, wood‐ shuttered windo、 vs hide ノ οs,in the behind them cool and shady ρα′

A fe、 v minutes'、 valk east,the less inter‐

1913.Inside is a ine baroque retablo in the

´

diOs. 「 hc

′ irgen

de los ReFne‐

lglesia de Santo E)omingo

dates to thc 17th century and contains sornc

ine canvases by Crist6bal Hern`ndez de Quintana.Atthe nonhem end ofthe casco,

best cases surl・ ounded by irst‐ storcy veran‐

the lgiesia de lSan Migue:de las Victo‐

das propped up by sicnder timber colunlns. wherever you sec an open dooL look inside ―with luck the inncr sanctum will also bc open and you can see what lics behind the

riaS(Or juSt plain del CriStO tO 10CalS),iS

known for the black gothic wood sculpture of(〕 hrist hcld inside. Visiting hours arc

■om

10 am to l.30 pm and 4 to 8 pm

cxterior walls. ´ rhe best place tO stalt yOur wanderings is

Tuesday to Friday,and,Om 10 am to2 pm

at Casa Lercaro,on C;alle de San Agustin.

()f the convents,the most intcresting is

Saturday and Sunday.

198 Around the lsiand―

La Laguna

薔 `

。口 コr“ ω ^タ

'8j躙

La Laguna

ミ ヽ

PLACES TO STAY 9 HOtol Aguoo 19 Holo,‐ Aparta,■,ntos Nivana

PLACES TO EAT 4 Tas∞ ● □ 9una 14 Tasca nodauranto La Gcto● 22 Tasca La Pana“ ,7●

OTHER lglesia de San M10uel

de las

Conto de Salud

7 ヽ 三

I"Sia dO la∽ nCepo6n univO● ″ Buiuing Casa Lo子 Ю (Mus∞ de la

HistOm dO“Tene計 。) 12 ConvenЮ do santa cla“

13 Casa dbl Mon● nes 15 Cated口 16 Casa“ 疇 Capitanes Coneralos :

ヽで

17A,lntamion0

a cOr∞ sy、 gmf“ “ a TIVE(Student Travel) 2481● os Bar

25A21α ir 26 Bas

ξ

21日

日1

Around the lsiand― The No■ h‐ East 199

the Convento de Santa C:ara,which you

actually sizeable po■ ions of mouth― Water―

can visit fiom 9.30 am to l pm and 3.30 to

ing fOOd.Try the ChainpliOneS einpanadOS

5.30 1pm.Botll it and the closed order in the

Convento de Santa Catalina are still

(breaded muShrOOmS)・ 71夕 s`α ια Pα″α′ ″fα , Calle de Santo

active.

I)。

lι

mingo 24,has a good meni del dfa for

950 ptas.

Museo de ia Ciencia y e:Cosmos

More upmarketis thc 7bsο αR′ s′α″rα ″た ιαGο rarα ,Ca‖ c dc San Agustin 9.Thc old

muscum where you push buttons,watch bans and thingsjiggle arOund,and muse on

mansion is lovcly and thc prices rcnect the at 1500 ptas. class ofthe localc.Mains sta

the forces of nature.・ 「 here's also a plane‐ tarium here,which is quite intcrcsting.It's

Ente"ain:Tlent

・ 「 his is a placc for the scicncc buff only,a

on Vfa lLictea,south of Avenida de(Calvo

Bars, Pubs & Discos The students

Sotelo, and opens fiom 10 arn to 10 pm,

providc the nightlife, and the bulk of the

as for thcヽ 4useo de la Historia de・rlenerife.

bars arc concentrated tt the univcrsity end Of Calle del I)octor Antonio(〕 onz`lcz and

・ 「 uesday to Sunday.Adnlission is the same although thc planetariurn is quite

Calle de Heraclio Sinchez,as well as thc cross streets betwcen them. 3′ ″θs Bα′

Speciai Events

Calle dcl Doctor Zainenhof 9,soinetimes has live inusic.И zブ οα″ ,Calle del Doctor Antonio(3onz`lez ll,is a busy place.But yOu're best off bar‐ hopping and finding

,

The lnOstiinportant iestas in La Laguna arc

the Romerfa de San Benito Abad on the irst Sunday of July,and the lFiesta ldei Santfsi‐

mo Cristo, ■om 7 to 15 Septcmber. Carnaval(Fcbruary)and Corpus Christi (JunC)are alSO Celebrated With guStO here・

Places to Stay

Ce lヨ

Thc sleeping possibilities are extreinely limited in La LagunarThc only cheapies are

a couple of pensiones in the suburbs. ′ ,(● P`″sあ ″Bθ ″

what suits your tastcs― you don't have far tO hOp(Or StaggCO・

ng There&Away

lus Thcre ls a strearll of buses to Santa

Cruz(1ヽ o015 is best as it takes you to Plaza

de Espaia),Pue■ o de la Cruz(Nos 101& 102),La C)rotava(062)and beyond.

922255043),Canc dc

la Rcpiblica de Vcnezucla 64, has rooms

Car&Motorcyc:e La Lagunais onthc TF―

Mιグ′ ″α(● 922

5 motorway,making for a fast getaway to

br 3000/4000 ptas.P′ ″s′

660848),Calle de Eduardo`″de lRoo 68,is

either Santa Cruz or Pucll,o de la Cruz.

in La Cuesta and charges 2100/3700 ptas. り ′ Иgッ ′″ ι Back in town,you could tγ 」

THE NORTH‐ EAST

iο

(‐

`′ 922259490),Cane dc1 0bispo Rey

Redondo 57(opposite the´「 eatro Lcal),

whcrc finc singies/d()ublcs cost 5600/6900 _И α ptas.〃οたノ οs Ⅳ′ ναガα (● 922 ρ ″rα ″θ″′

26 42 98), Plaza del Adelantado ll, has

San Andr6s&Around About 6knl north‐ east of Santa([〕 ruz, the lea″ hi‖ sidc vinage of San Andr6s omers the whitc sands ofthc artillcial Playa dc las

・Ileresitas, an cxtrernely pleasant beach

doubles only lor 7940 ptas.

made with sand from the Sahara.The

Piaces to Eat

village was once protected by a round tower,which has now crumbled.There's

ο″′ ο, R′ s′ α ′ α″′ ′Sα ″ И″′

Plaza de San

“ 6, has a cool bar inside and a Francisco lCatt COurtyard in WhiCh tO eat yOur■ mcals.ヽ rlou'll spcnd about 1500 ptas.

lling

g“ ″ α,Calle de Juan de Vicra 7bsι αιαια hc so‐ called tapas are

53, is a great spot.´

:『

nowherc to stay here, but plenty of good littlc ish restaurants to choose from.

There are■ equcnt buses(No 910)'om Santa Cruz.Bus No 245 gocs north to the end Ofthe rOad,to lgueste dc lSan Andr6s, another 6km of beautiful coastline.

200 ArOund the ISiand―

Puel■ o de la(E)ruz

If you have yOur own transp。 ■, yOu

″′″′ οs βθ′ ″″α′(,922540661),Avenida

COuld head do、 vn to the secluded iPlaya de las(〕 aviOtas, about half way from San

de Rafael Gonz`lez Vcrnetta,has apart‐

Andr6s.

the μο ″′Dθ ι βl″ (● 922540200),Avenida del S。 1. SingleS/dOubles cost up to 7000/

Taganana a the Anaga mountnins A SpCCtaCular trip leads up the 13all・

inents nrom 7000 ptas.You could also try

9500 ptas.

anco de

Bus No 105 runs hcre iom Santa Cruz

laS Huerms to cross the Anaga range(geo‐ 10giCally the OldeSt pan Of the isiand)and

via La Laguna.

plurnrnet do、 vn on the Other sidc to the little

Tacoronte&Ei Sauza:

´ hamlct of .Ilaganana. 「 he vicws tO the craggy coast iOnl above the tOwn are quite breathtaking.There's not muchto thctown,

Fronl′ Ilelina,a10knljaunt sOuth leads you

´

to Ilacoronte. ・ his is one of thc island's I｀

most impOnant wine regiOns,and the tast

but you can prOcced a few inore kl10rnetres

Of Cristo de los Dolores is celebratcd with

to the coast and iRoque de ias BOdegas.

the harvest festivities On the irst Sunday

Local surtrs like the beach here(Playa de

a■ er 15 Septenlber―

San Roque),and there are four or ivc little reStaurantS and drink StandS・ (二lα Sα Иり ノ σα ,

on the coast road, is panicularly pOpular. 13eyond,the road cOntinucs to a cOuple of `ン

minor se■ lcments,Almaciga and Benijo.

・Ilaganana hosts an Odd celebratiOn in

Mlarch‐ April(the

date changes),in which

an enlgy of Judas lscariot is burned in a kind of collective purging of the villagers' sins and guilty cOnsciences!

Bus No 246 comes here nrOm Santa Cruz.

Ifyou have your own wheels,backtrack_

ing a feW ki10metrcs into the Anaga nlountain range and heading iwest at the in‐

terSeCtion(お ‖ow signs br La Laguna)is a

wonhwhile excursiOn.The views 6rOm the nurnerous ″,F″ αグ ″as along the way are lο

wonderl■ 11.

Balamar a Punね dei Hidalg。 ´ he nlountain road drops into a vallcy on r・

thc way to La Laguna. Turn west 6or Tlegueste and aner about lokm you reach the 10Cal SeaSide reSOn of Bajamar(Via Tejina).The Only SWimming is in rock pools

a goOd time to be here as lnuch、 vine― tasting is done.

Downhill iom thc modem town centreis the lg:esia de santa caセ ュ :ina(SignpOSt‐ ed),a bright littlC grey Stone,whitewashed church built in theく :;anaries colonial style.

Around aboutis a handnul oftraditiOnal old houses.C)thcr"7ise,there really isn't a lotto the place.

A twk‖ ometres On,EI Sau“ l

is another

、′ ine‐ grO、 ving cOrnrnunity. I)own On the COaSt,the clifIゝ of E.l Sauzal and′ racoronte fOnn an impreSSiVe buttress against the At― lantic.

Bus No 101 1inks these towns tO Puc■ o de la(C:nlz and Santa Cruz.

La Maね nza de Acentejo&La Victoria La Mttanza(`the siaughter')is wherc Bencorno's Guanches inflicted a nasty

dcfcat on A!onso Fcrnindez de Lugo's ′ Spaniards in 1493. 「 、 vo years iater, howevc■ de Lugo was back and this tilne he

had better luCk,Winning a deCiSiVe ViCtOry

OVer the(]uanches just 3km south of the

awasll with Atlantic rollers,but it is pOpular

scene Of his earlier deneat.Predictably,the villagc that eventually sprang up here、 vas

With CanariOS and miainiand Spaniards.As

known as La Victoria.

`reso■ s'go,it's pretty low kcy.Threc kilo‐

metres nomh_east,Punta del Hidalgo is an

Bus No 101 links thesc toms tO Pue■ o dela Cn:z and Santa Cruz.

eXtenSiOn Of Balamar,and 10Cal lads try their luck on boOgie bOards in the surf Of Playa de 10s T'rOches. Ifyou、 vant tO stay,yOu'l:ind a few sets

of apaiments in bOth locations.И ′α′rα ―

PUERTO DE LA CRUZ α′ ′ ・ ρο ο″2,5θ θ ρ″′

A coastal paradise, with palins swaying

among the banana plantatiOns,black sandy

ArOund the lsiand― Puerto de la(〕 ruz 201

.The postcodc lor Pue■ lo dc la Cruz is

beaches and a limpid ocean. C)h, and a

pol■

forest of high‐ risc hotels, shopping nlalis,

38400.

touts,swiinining pools,`traditional Sunday roasts'and street velldors selling Julio lgle‐

sias tapes to sun_scorched pensioners nrorn as far aneld as London and iLeipzig. Historically,Puerto de la Cruz was a scc‐

Ondary pO■ rnuch uscd by English traders. As maritime trade droppcd off,it was the English who caine to the rescuc,crecting

the monumental Grand Hotel Taoro as a kind ofinembers'club.′ 「 his rnarkcd thc be― ginning ofPuc o de la Cruz's vocation as a

Emergency The Policia Nacional HQ (.口

,922381224)is on Avenida de Jos6 del

〈 1)anlpO

lン larena●

For an anlbulance you can

callthe Cmz Roia on雪

922383812.

Disabled Trave‖ e應、Le Ro(● 9223733 01)iS a SpeCialiSt ShOp that rentS Wheel‐ chairs and other appliances for the disabled, as well as offering a repair service.It's on

Avenida del Generalisimlo in thc Apa■

a‐

tourist recreation destination.It's not all bad ncws.´ he oldcr pal■ls ofthe town ccntre and

inentos Mainina building.

toward the wcst aК pretty in placcs and not sO Obviously overrun― and you would be

Things to See&Do

hard presscd not to 16nd thc natural setting agreeablc.

the Lago Martianez is not an unpleasant

Orienね tion

If you neel that your soul is in danger florn the resort cnd of town, hcad for the centre and thc 17th‐ ccntury :g:esia de

I｀

The city sprcads nr。 .l castto wcst along the

Atlantic coast. Thc bus station is in thc

Around■ o'wn Created by C6sar Manrique, diversion.The fountains and layout are at― tractivc,and entry costs 350 ptas.

west,and roughly a 10-nlinute walk away

Nuestra senora de:a Pena de Francia.

are sorne nlodest hotels and quiet iocal eateries. Thc busy Plaza del Charco is a fOcal point,and most ofthe town's historic

The ChurCh haS a ine mudQar CCiling and

buildings lie in thc immediate vicinity.´

cIoser tO thc wateriont is the Ayun‐ tamient(o, a ine old building but by no

ri。

the castisthe morc hideousjumble ofhigh‐ risc hotels, discos and bars, intcrnational restaurants and the adrnittedly vcry pleasant

ago Martiancz, a watery playground de‐ signed by(C16sar Manriquc.

some paintings by Luis dc la Cruz in thc retablo ofthe Capilla del Evangelio.

rncansthe Only one around here.Across the

square is the lCasa de Miranda, dating 1‐

l′

:nforination

TOurist Orice The O■ cina de lnforrnaci6n

・ uristica is on iPlaza de lEuropa and opens 9 arn to 8 pnl Monday to Friday,and 9 anlto l pnl Saturday and Sunday. I｀

10wing Places to Eat section),and thcお down the 'om 1730 md now arestaurmt(sec naFow Cane de las Lonias isthe Casa de la Aduana,the custonls house founded in 1620.Another noteworthy old■ lansion is thc Casa de:os iria1lte,where the fanlily ofwritcrs and artists had their fainily homc.

´ rhe laurcls in thc nearby P:aza dei charco

wcre brOught nrom Cuba in 1852.A block Money Arnerican Express is represented by ViaJes lnsular(●

922380262)at Avenida

del Generalsimo 20A.Otherwise,the same streetis lincd with banks and A「 FMs.Banca ヽ4arch is handy on IPlaza del Charco.

cast brings yOu tO the ig:esia de San Fran‐

cisco and Ermita de San Juan.The little

herrnitagc was built bctween 1599 and 1608.Only the Ermita de San Amaro,up in the east oftown,is older. Just、 vest

Post a com:nunicatiOns The town's

OfPlaza dellCharco,the Museo

nlain post ofice is on Calle dcl Pozo,op‐

Arqueoi6gico has a modest collection of (〕 uanche artefacts and inurnmies, along

posite thc bus station.There arc telcphones on Calle dc Mequinez,near the litllc fishing

、′ ith sollle othcr odds and sods.It is open from 10 am to l pm and S to 9 pm Tuesday

202 Around the lsiand― Puc■ o dela C)ruz

,ヽ

`3.

2

ＮＦＨ υ ”︻０可 ０■０●﹄

0 “

0 0

ト

2

く

ヽ

●ｏｃ ｏのＳちｏ３２ｏ ｏ ｏ３一ｏ︸ Ｏｃ一 ｃＳ ｌ ３ ８ Ｅ Ｅ 讐 Ｒ ぅＯｃｃ﹄ 〇〇９一Ｃ” Ｌ Ｃ“の ００ ●一 ５ ﹂●■ Ｓ ｃ８ ｏ ８一 ３一 ３ ｇく ・ ８ ｏコ〓 ０︸ ， ８，一 お ︶ＯＣ２ ● ０ ●ｃＳ Ｏく ０一〇０ 雰 暉０ ト ８ 一 汽 Ｙ Ｏ〓 β ０ ０■ ｏ一 Ｅ ｃ■ く マ ，

く

ｅ Ｏ●卜 一 ｐＯ工 ０こｇ Ｏ ●０ ｃ 一 ｏ■ ｏ ｏ一 〇５一 ● Ｎ０ ●α〓０﹂， Ｃ理り００ ，〇一 〓０００ 一〇

′ ゞ

８ ＯＮ 輸Ｎ ０Ｎ ＮＮ

むｔ ｔミ 亀 ご

８遍 ８ 一 β ゝｏ８ Ｌ８ ｏＳ Ｐ Ｄ０ ８ ｃ〓 ｏШ ｃ８ ｃこ 口 ｔ ３ ， ｏ８ ， ０一３ ●０ “ ｅ Ｃこ の０一 Ｏうの■●ＣＣ０ ﹂ ●３ｏｃ一●●●一 ＞

ご

ヨ

ｔｅ

“一

Ｃ００﹄ ８一 Ｃ■ ＯＮ く り¨

Ａ ぁ●＞ ●〓８ ０ ｏｔ ｅ コｇ∽ｏ∝ ＾ Ｎ

﹂ ｏＯＮあＯＬ 一 ●ュメモ”〓 Ｎ Ｕ ｇヽ

Ｅ ＣＣＳ ●一 ＯＣｏこ 一 Ｌ ｇ と ０一 ● ゝコ ５ 一 ｏ５ Ｌ ８

景‘ ョｇ ”〓 ｂ一 ０エ ト”

コミ ｅ Ｏョ■ 一 ｏ︶ ０工 Ｎ一 一

＞ く ﹄， ０ ０ 卜 ∽ｕＯ ‘ヨＬ

む ●Ｅ ” ¨ ＯＣ ｃＯ一 ＯＣＯユ ０ ●ＯＣ ● こ０一 ＯｃＯＬ  ０

Around the lsiand― PuertO de la CruZ 203

tO Saturday, and iom 10 am t0 1 pm

littic Place,wherc dOubleS(nO SingleS)With

Sunday.Atthc westem edgc oftoヽ

o、

vn,a little

vn bath cost 3900 ptas.lt's oftcn full.

O de San Felipe stands watch over a pretty

j′ zα P′ α′ α(‐ 922384157), α″′′ P′ ″ s」 Calle dc 131anco 29,is a charmlcss,nlodern

stretch of bcach. It opens only for spccial exhibitions. SOuth Ofthc ciり SprCads the ma」 CSけ Of

place,butthc roorns are clean and cornfort―

1 7th―

ccntury fort known as thc Casti‖

Parque Taolro,dorninatcd by the grand old Hotel Taoro― part of which now houscs a

able. singles/dOubles gO for 3500/4600

ptast Ncarby,P`′ s,ι ″ ιοヶ (雪 9223836 93),Canc de La Sala 4,has simplc doubles, ぃ′ ithOut bath,for 2600 ptas.

casino.Thc Risco Bello Aquatic Gardens, an artincial tropical playground,are situat‐ ed in the hea口 l ofthe park_

E)。

wn around the Museo Arqueo16gico,

in a quiet little barrio largcly devoid of the

οs tOurist trappings,is P`″ sfb″ ιοs Ca″ α″ノ

922 3828 1o),Callc del LOmo 14.

A good place for vicWS Ofthc town isthe MiradOr de:a!Paz,near the EInnita dc San

(雪

Amaro,where you can e■ oy a drink in onc

with Own shOwcr.up thc rOad,at No 24,

Of sevcral bars. Along the road to La

οИz′ ′(● 〃 た′P′ ι″′

c)rOtava is the 200‐ year― old Jardin 13otini‐

as little as 3500 ptas for doublcs with

cO,Opcn iOm 9 ain to 6 pm daily.

cnsuitc in Off_scasOn,but double lronl No―

Loro Parque The dolphinarium hcre has a

vcmber to April. If thcy dOn't suit, try R′ s′ グ Иクb″ α″(● 922380682),at ´ `″`jα hcy only have (1,alle dc la Penita 6.

dual tourist and scicntinc functiOn.()ne dolphin was actually born in captivity herc in 1994.,I′

ou can see sharks,manta rays and

ali sorts ofothcr sealife in the aquariurn,as well as an asso‖ inlent of other bcasties,in‐

cluding gorillas, crocodiles, tigcrs and nanlingos.Entry costs 2500 ptas and a silly

yellow train takes you■ om the city centre if you don't have your own transport. It's vest of about a five― minutc drive to thc 、 town.

Bananera EilGuanche This British oper‐ atcd, and functioning, banana plantation airns tO tcach visitors thc history of the

banana trade and how bananas are grown.

´ 「 he placc is also bursting with ali sorts of Other exotic flora.

It's about 2krn out oftown on the road to

thc TF-5 mOtorway(and La Orotava). There'sa■ ee bus ionl the town centre. Ent:ly costs 950 ptas.

Diving You can organise dives and classes at Canarisub(雷 922383007),Cane de Es― quivc1 8.

r00rns here range up to 3500 ptas

iο

922383213)charges

I｀

dOublcs,、 vhich cOrne in at 4500 ptas. ´ 「 hcre is no shol■ agc of drab, lour and ive‐ star nlonoliths to stay in,butう or a bit oftastclul elcgancc you can't go pasttヽ vo Of thc longest cstablishcd hotels in the toヽ vn. 〃 た′ルb″ ο βοノ(奮 922384611),Calle de iο

Quintana 15,dates back to 1742,although its life as a hOtci stancd later.The rooms are

cxquisitely presented and thcre is a pool

too. In high season you are looking at shelling out 8500/10,500 ptas. At No ll, 〃οた′Mα η ′sα (● 922383151)is in “class,if a littlc cheapcr. much the saine

P:aces to Eat if yOu nlust hang out in the eastern end of

tOwn(around Avenida del Gcneralsimo), you could do 、 vorsc than thc seafood at s,“ 了 αE′ Pascα グο″,Alvenida de Venc‐ ル ″′ ´ zuela `α 3. `″ 「 here is an ininite nunlber of pizzerias and internationa1 lood outlets around here.

In a quitc different vcin are thrce places

a10ng the quiet Calle de Esquivel.R′ s′α ― “ E′ 云 ″ ′ α″′ ι」 ,on the corner of Calle de :′

``″ los lriartc,is a nicc spot for iocal cuisinc―

P:aces to Stay P′ ″ sノ b″ Rο sα ″α 4ソ (奮

I)。 ublc

922383253),Calle

de San Felipe 14,is an imrnaculately kept

″ ,on the set:Tlcnu costs 950 ptas.E′ ι′ ith Calle de B.Miranda,is `″ veg‐ the cOrner、 ′ etarian,with great`burgers',soups and fruit

204 Around the lsiand―

Pueno de la Cruz

juices.lMore cxpensive is the Rasrα ″ ″ α″た C10CI″ α レ aSε α ,Calle

de la Hoya 2,where

mains cost 1500 ptas.

βα″五αs

Pο ′ ′ αs,Calle

de Cupido,is a

basic bar/restaurant where yOu can have papas arrugadas y mojo pic6nお r600 ptas. ´ 「 hey advenisc canarian break,Ists,as if in denancc ofthe full English― breakfast trend.

`′

GI●

:ng Bananas

A11lough bananas had been glrown in the Canary:siands for conturies,they Oniソ really calme into their own as fヵ 0 0xpЮ rt

CaSh CrOp arOund the 1870s.They re‐ mained the is:ands'econom:c mainstay unti: WWi, 1″ hen thel Br:tish blockade Strangled international trade and R)bbed the is:ands of their fOne,9n rnarkeヽ

.

Conditions irnprOved s:owiy ater the 、 ″at and ahhough the banana no:。 nger plays the p自 oO did in "eminent ro:elo■ the is:ands'overa::econ。 lmメ it is stiti cu蘭 _ vated e ensively br ex啓 漱 .:t"mains tte Singie mostimpo■ ar■ αop in the Canaries.

Those uvho do depend more on the

banana are the Laln Amencan heirs Of」 he

Canary:s:ands'banana; l was the ea"y

S"niSh∞ rlquiStadoCs

who introduced l

O the westem hemisphere,sta

ng fЮ

m

CO:umbuS'lrSt iandl餞 :l at Hbpani。 :a(the

Do:Tlinican Repub:iO and Haiti), and quiCkけ Spreading b otherisiands and the

main:and.Fray Tomas de Bedanga,ilter Bも hop Of Panama,toЮ there in 1516.

k some spedmens

Tb thiS day the banana remains a cent“ ュ :feature of the economies Of countries:ike

Panalma, the DOminican Repub:ic, Guadelo11國 9, Jalmlaica, cOsta Rica, Honduras, Cuatema:a,Bl「 a冽 :,Cololmbia and Ecuador.

SO What'S SO great abOut bananas'Eas‖ y grown in tropicai and sub‐ tropical environ‐

men｀ ,the banana iS iammed wnh vitamins A and C,p。 ねssium and caわ ohydmtes. PeOp:e haVe beenに Ving abOut bananaS Sin00 andent tmes― A:exander the‐ G“eat en‐

countered thern dunng his conquests in india,three hundred years bebre chist. The banana p:ant is actud:y an out:andishly:arge he:わ ,α Dmprising an underOround

Stem(Or rhi20mO)mm which sp ngs aね :se tn」 nk hd can grOw up b 6m.A■ er the lrst p:anting,t Canは e up to 15 nlon」 ls for"un to appear The fbise trunk lowers,and then a bunCh Of anything up to 1501 bananas grOws,divided intO`hands'Of 10 t0 20 pieces of As each piant only bears one bunch,the ttse trunkis pruned away b make way br new ones tO● ke ns pla`冷 .The unde.9Ю und stem remains in p:ace.Hundreds of tts "uに of banana are sctttered across p:antatbns a:ound the wo『 :di b曖 one impo:セ int dislino‐ tion is bet″ een the sweettasting banana and the sbrchy pianbin,which:s ah″ ays used fo「 cooking. . ‐

Around the lsland― La C)rotava 205

222α S Иκ

,Calle dC BlanC0 8,is an‐

to 6 pm Monday to Friday,and iom 10 am

Zamon 32,has a cour,ard out the back.

to 2 prn Saturday. ´ 「 hc post oficc is on(二 )alle de(Cologan, OppOsite the lglesia dc la Concepci6n.

α″ α,on iPlaza de Europa,is cα sα ′￨`M′ ″ `ゴ FnOre than tWO CenturieS 01d and With itS

Things to See The iglesia de:a Con‐

Other unassurninglplace `″ to get local grub.

´ ο, Callc de P`rcz 「 hc(,α sα ′ ′P“ θら′ lι

Iov′

,wooden‐ bearned ccilings and tasteful

period d6cor, nlakes for a vcry roinantic place to eat,if a tad pricey.

Enね nainment

・

r・

hc bulk Ofthc noisier bars and discos are

clustcred a10ng and around Avenida dcl ([〕

eneralfsiin。 .´ rhke yOur pick!

cepci6n is the Canary lslands' most nOtable contribution to baroquc architec‐ ture.Bchind it,Calle del Colcgio clilnbs sOuth tO becOine(Calle de San Francisco, lined by imprcssive mansions■ om the 17th and 1 8tll centurics.

Of the sO―

cancd Docc Casas(Twelve

HOuses),the Casa de Fonseca(aka Casa de 10S BalCOneS)iS perhapS the mOSt Out‐

Getting There&Away

standing, boasting iong and splendidly

The Estaci6n dc Guaguas is on Callc del POzo in the west of the town.・ There are

、 vorked teak balconies.Inside,it opcns onto a lea″ patiO,OffWhiCh are rOOmS nOW uSed

regular dcpalnurcs fOr Santa Cruz and La

by a rcscarch institute on Spanish and】 atin

Laguna(Nos 101&102)and south― west to

Amcrican crafts.It is Open'Om 8.30 am to 6.30 pin,Monday to Saturday. Across the road is the CaSa Molina(aka

lcOd de los Vinos(No 363)and Playa de las

Am6ricas(No 343).The slow 101(′ οr Car― ″ι′ ′″α G′ ′ι′αの dOeS the SCeniC tOur tO Santa Cruz via La(Drotava and Tacoronte.

:´

casa del Turist→ ,Open lrOm 9 am to 6 pm

daily.In both plaCCS yOu Can SeC(and buy) (1,anarian handicrans.

Getting Around

｀Ou can hirc bicyclcs at Bicicletas Melian Yζ

(●

922382917),Centro Comercial Ucanca,

Avenida dc Jos6 del Campo Llarena.

AROUND PUERTO DE LA CRUZ La Oro● va

θ α′ ,ο ″32,θ θ ・ ρο ″′ lρ

Justa tw k10metに sinland frOm PuenO de la Cruz is one ofthe prcttiest towns on the isiand. It gives its narne to thc prosperous valley that spreads out to the、 vcst,and thc

noble inansions which grace the old centre Of tOwn secrn a reflection of that、vcalth. ´ 「 he valley was soon settled ater the spanish cOnquest,and by the 16th‐ century we11_tO_dO fainilies■

om La Laguna began

building churches and convents,and later their own homes,in this town.The casco is

about a nve_minute walk west iOm thc Estaci6n dc Guaguas.

infornlatiOn ・rhcrc is a tOurist ofice (雷

922278510)at Ca‖ e

de la Carrera del

Escultor Est6venez 2.It opens nrom 10 arn

Follo、ving Calle dc San Francisco up (SOuth),yOu COine tO thC lg:eSia de San

Francisco and Hospitalito de ia lSantisi‐ rna Trinidad,occupying what was once the ´ Convento de San iLorcnzo. rhe hospital rernains in use,so wandering arOund inside snapping photos is probably not appropri‐ atc. Heading nu■ her south still, the street name changesto Calie dellDoctor Donlingo

Gonz`lez Garcia,along which(on the cast side)is a serics of 17th and 18th‐

centulγ

milis once used to make go■ o. ´ 「 O the east, On Calle de Fernando

Fuentes,is the 1 8th― century lglesia de lSan

Juan!Bautis&l del Farrobo,with an out‐ standing artesOnadO ceiling.13ack towards the ccntre, next to thc Jardin Victoria,the

lgiesia de lSan Agustin also boasts a inc al■ esonado.

Downhin on Cane de Tomas Zerolo,the

fOrmer cOnventO de Santo Domingo nOw houses the Museo de Artesania lberoamericana,

exhibiting

handicrants

iOm Spain and Latin America.It opens iom 9.30 am t0 6 pm daily exccpt Sunday.

206 ArOur

the lsiand― La Oro● va

﹄ 盟

← 妙ｚ 、

¶

(:)rotava

PLACES T10 STAY 6 Pons16n Slono 15 Hot● I Vl,tona

PLACES TO EAT

5円 aza“〕la

O)n30tud6n&

14 RostauttnL Sa∞ 「CanafЮ Mu“ o dol P"blo Cuanche

&

OTHER l EstaciOn“ Guaguas 2 Conveno de santO Domingo (Mus∞ de A¨ nla ,“ mn“ na“ 4 191esほ “ de San Agustin

7 Comosy了0169■ Os 8191“ ほ

“ 'a COnoe"16n 12 Hlluolas d,I Bolanico 13Aソ untamionto

16 Casa de Fon鶉 ∽ 17()asa Molina ,8!91os● do San Fran03● 0こ Hospna‖ o dela Santに ima TRnidad 19 191esia de San Juan

eautta dOI R∞

Activities Paca Tus M【 ontes(● 9223359 03),Calle de SanAgustFn 9,orgaliscs hikcs around the isiand. Special Event C;Orpus C,hristi is celebrated

With partiCular gusto in La()rotava.TOnnes

of volcanic eanh, oOwers, branches and Sand are hauled intO the CCntre(CSpeCially aЮund thC 19■ ― ccnmry Ayunmmiento)tO creatc cxtraordinary`calpets'in thc s"eets

b。

Orotavais an easy day p,om SFmtt Cniz or Pucrto de la Cruz,becausc accommoda‐ tion is thin On the ground. ￨`Ou could try Pa″ sfd″ Sノ ″″ 922330199),Callc de ・I10mis Zerolo `(● 9,which has singles/doubles With own shower for 4500/6000 ptas.C)th‐ erWiSe,〃 οた′″οわ′″ (● 922331683), Calle de Hennano Apolinar 8,is an attrac― tiVC OptiOn in a rcfurbished 400-year old (1)anarian manslon. 1「 he

13 doubic roOms

and plazas.

have ali the mOd cOns if you can afflord

PlaCeS tO Stay&Eat lt's a good thing La

taxes(includes breakfast).

12,800/16,000 ptaS Or nlorc, plus 4.5%

ArOund the lsiand― The No減 h‐ West 207

ο,Calle de la ′Sα ιο″Ca″ α″′ Rasra′ ″ α″′

PlaCeS t(D IEat if you need a bite to cat,

era dcl Escultor Est6venez 17,is palt of Cal■・

″′″,Avenida de las Ca‐ R`srα ″″ α″rθ Cα ″

the MuseO del Pucblo Guanche,(more a showcaseお r handiCraftS than a muSCum).

gas On Plaza de la cOnstituci6n, the bο グ′ て

´ 「 he restaurant is enticing though,especial―

ly ifyOu get a seatin the patio.For a bit of 4σ ′ ο‐ a splurge you could cat at the ffO′ ′′レ r,α ,alsO

in a patio.Mains stl■ lat 1500 ptas.

Ifyou're around forlunch on Sunday,see οllas put on its 800 1ptas ′ ε′ο 7bο ´ bullet.It's thc imposing building on Calle de San Augustin. ifthc I′

￨夕

`ノ

For a chcap snack or ineal, the more prOsaic, namclcss bar at Avenida de Jos6 Antonlo 6 mittt bc the 80・

narias l,is nOt a bad choice.A■ envards,try

where you can sarnple lcOd's wines,panic― ularly the Malvasia for which the volcanic soil around hcre is well known.

Ge"ing There&Away Bus No 108 goes to Santa Cruz,No 354 heads for Pue■

o de

la Cruz and No 46o tO Playa de las Ain6ri‐ cas.

Garachico 」 ο″59θ θ α′ ・ ρο ′ン′

ヽ vander the uneven streets and admire thc traditional houses in this whitewashed ishing hamlet. ´ liration,as(]ara― 「 hey dcserve special ad■ lt is a rcal pleasurc to Simply

Getting There&Away Bus No 101 comes up lrOm PuenO dc la Cruz;No 063■ ol■ Santa Cruz and No 062彙 om La Laguna.

THE NORTH‐ WEST Icod de ios Vinos θ α″ο″ノ ・ ′ο &θ θ ρ″′

The main tttraction in this wine‐ bclt town is its wcird trec,the Drago Miienario,sup‐ s old.This,the posed to be a thousand yel霞 ・

oldest`dragon trce'in the isiands,appcars fl・

onl a distance for allthe world to be a lop‐

chico has not been the luckiest tOWn. Founded by Genoese merchants who had accompanicd and to some extcnt bankrolled s′α Jο ″ ι s,Carachico soon devel― the οο″9ν ′ Oped into a ccntre of sugar production. lts port was for a while the busiest on the island,but the 17th century brought a series Of disasters、 vhich all but inished the place of■ 1｀ he long― suffering inhabitants were as‐

sided unnbrella.

sailed by epidenlics, freak storms which

Ifyou like buternics,you inight、 vant tO visitthe Mariposario del Drago,a tropical garden SWarming With″ α″″οSaS・ It OpCnS iOm 10 am to 6 pm daily.Ad:nission is 600

destroyed countlcss ships,■ rcs and inally,

p● s. learby on a shady square,the igiesia de San Marcos is wo■ h a look.Its sober re‐ 1、

in 1706, a ma,Or volcanic eruption whicll buried the town in lava and destroyed the port.In 1905 another ealthquake rerninded therrl of the ever‐ present dangers posed by nature.

vithin a Superb nalssance interlor hidcs ヽ

information ・The small tourist ofnce

pine artcsonado ceiling and silver high altar.

(●

922830185)at Calle de Est6ban de

A few steps away,Pla2a de la COnStitu‐ ci6n(aka Plaza de la Pila)is nanked by

POnte s is Open frOnl 10 arn to 3 prn ´ Monday to Saturday. 「 hc postcodc for

sorne ine old Canarian houses.Ifyou head a litle way up Calie de San Antonio,you'11 see on the right another dragon tree, the

(:larachico is 38450.

Things to See The Fo‖ aie2a de San

Dlrago Chico. Thc streets around here, forming the kernel of the old town, are wo■ h a wandei A twk‖ ometrcs outside town,you can

Miguel, a stout little po■ side lo■ with curiOus white tu:Tets, erected in the 16th centuly to protect Garachico■ oin pirates, was 10ne Of the few survivOrs of the 1706

have a swirn atthe little bcach in the nshing

cruption.Itis now horne to a fossil and rock c011ectiOn,and is Opcn frOnl 10 ani to 6 prn daily.Entry costs 100 ptas.

village Of Playa de San Marcos(bus No 362■ om lcod).

208 Around the lsiand_Parquc Nacional de las Caiadas del Tleide ・ 「 he igieSia de lSan Francisco,On the

tW kl10meteS On a Cainel(with 50 other

central plaza tllat is itselfa pleasant place to

Similarly a

hang arOund fbrlate an‐ ern。 。n aperitifも ,has

donkcy as a ib1lo、 v‐ up and then purnp`tra‐

a ine mudqar cening.

The Museo de Arte,Plaza dc Santo

red tOuriStS),StiCk yOu On a

ditional Arabian tea'dOwn yourthrOatin an `authentic Arabial tent'.Hmm.。 .

I)orningo,is a modern art collection hOused

in what was a I)ominican ■10nastery. It OpenS i■On1 9 am to l pnl and 4 to 7 prn daily.Entry is 100 ptas. Special Even侵 3 The Rolnerfa de San

a startling spit Of volcanic rock lcaning out intO the ocean. IE〕 chind rise palc green,

wo■ h being in town fO■

CaCtuS‐ d° tted rnOuntainS●

PiaCeS to Stay& Eat´ he Only cheapie 「

9228302

45), Calle de ESt6ban de Ponte 8, just

behind the waterfiont.They have a handful OfdOuble r00:1lS ranging in price lron1 3000 p● sto 5000 ptas(hc latter is very nicc ald haS a ShOヽ Ver); thCy alSO run a dive shop

and,of course,serve up pizzas. A stylish OptiOn is the〃 οた′Sα ″Rο

1ピ10u

Can SCC Iン a

Gomera■ Om here and On a g00d day sunset is a treat.IfyOu're driving,nOte that in bad

ヽ veather the rOad is prone to rnud falis Iヤ 。In ■lc clil舒 もabove,and therefore can be quite dangerous.

Bus No 107 goes all the way tO Santa

CruZ■ om Bucnavistao More■ cquentis No 363 to Pucrto de la(〔 〕 ruz via lcOd and く larachicO. こ

′

922133435)On the Same street tt `″ No

(‐

island,Buenavista has little tO recOinmend it.But if yOu get thisぬ r,you should try to thumb alin the lokm out Ю Pun愴 de Ten。 ,

Roquc,held in August(the dates change)is thc village's biggest yearly festival and

here iS in PIzz″ ′ α〃 G′ αZ′ ″ο(‐

Buenavista de:Norte&Punta de Tleno The inost nOrth_westerly village on the

32.1｀ he core of this elcgant place dates to

the 18th century. Singles/doubles cOst 12,000 ptas per pcrson.・

PARQUE NACIONAL DE LAS

CANADAS DEL TEIDE

DCClared a natiOnal park in 1954(the third

「 his is sOinething of a surprise packet, as the price includes beauti釉 l roOms cquipped with TV,videos,

tO be eStabliShed in Spain),the Parquc Na‐

CDs and nlinibar.AIso included in the pricc

ering 13,571 hect`res,it is the nnh iargest national park in Spain.

are usc ofthe poOl,sauna,tennis cOurt and eVen inaSSageS― and breakfast.Add 4.5% tax.

In the north rises the great cone that rnS the PiCo del ・reide, at 3718rn the

fOl・

Pretけ much thc wholc wateriOnt smet, thc Avenida de´ r10rn6 Cano,is taken up with rcstaurants whOse speciality,unsurprisingly enough,is ish.ヽlou can eat well for abOut 1500 ptas.

Ge

Cional de las(1)aiadas del ・Ileide basically takeS in an en01■ Υ 10uS Volcanic cratc■ (E)ov‐

ng There&Away Bus No 363■ om

Buenavista passes through cn rOute tO

highcst n10untain in all Spain.´ o thc south 「 arc the ca″ αdαs,a scries of plains stretch‐

ing away inside thc Old crater'om the loOt of Teide.´ he huge ancient crater mcasures

「

40knl in circurnference and 14k■

l in diam_

ctc■

・ 「 he park lies about 2000m abOve sea

lcvel, and prescnts a striking sight. Weird

Puerto dc la cruz,as docs the lcss frequcnt

basalt, purnice and obsidian rOck fornla―

No 107 to Santa Cruz.

tiOnS ernCrge frOrn the Sandy plains. A menacing black lava flow l10zen in time

Ei Tanque Just 10 ininutes west Oflcod,the village of

EI Tanquc is hoine to the Cainello Center (●

922136191).These people will dress

you up as an`Arab',lead you around 10r a

reaches ali the way down tO the only rOad that CrOSSeS the park・ The TClefё riC。 (Cable‐

Car)ride up tO the top ofthe rnountain is an

experience in itSelf― an ascent of sOme 1200nl in eight rninutes!

Around the lsland_Parque Nacional de las caiadas del′

Twenty― one walking trails,Of widely valying difnculty,criss_cross the park.If

Ileide 209

Canic landscape to thc base Ofthe ipeakl and the′ Ilclef6ricO.

you plan to do any seriOus hiking, yOu should get infOrlnation, at the C'entro de ViSi愴 nteS(See be10W),about which trails

are suitable fOr yOur level of skill and itnessIYlou`u・ e nOt pennited to stray l卜 oin

The Pico del■ eide

｀ ζ セ ou have a cOuple Ofchoices On hOw tO get tO the tOp Of the mountain. Most take the Tele“ rico,bu itis IЮ ssible tO hike up■ Om

the marked trails.

vanous points(see abovc).

Many hikers choose tO、 valk to the peak, statting iom EI Portil10 and passing the Montaia Blanca(お ur hours)beお К ¨ h_ ing■ C OVemight StOp in the basic “ ICONA shclter,the RO俄 g′οИ′ ′ ανls′ α.They com― plete the hike the fol10wing day,and inany

■om 2356m to 3550m― about 200m short ′ ofthc lip ofthe cI“ 、 tc■ he rctum trip cOsts 2100 ptas,Or 1300 ptas One way fOr those planning tO hike up but retu口nthe easy way. Itruns iom 9 ain to 4 pm(going up)and the

ThC Telef6rico takcs 8 nlinutes to ll■

yOu

I｀

elect tO take the′nelef6rico back dopvn!´ rhis

laSt One dOWn leaves at 5 pnl. Your

hike,panicularly the secOnd pa■ (SiX hOurS

nlaxintum time at the top is supposed tO be

ifyou include a diversiOn around t()thc lPico

onc hour,althOu♪ it'S a limc hard to sec

VieiO)iS nOtね r thcね

how this can bc policcd. ()nce at the top,you could be on a stair_

int‐ heartcd.Only

ex―

perienced walkers with a good nOse fOr directiOn should dO it,and the inal ascent should not be attenlpted in bad weather.

Snow and ice can be a prOblem in winter The refugiO is open'om MarchtO C)ctober; othel,vise,a siinple emergency cabin is all you'11■ nd.IBring a10ng your ou′ 11 lood and vFater lt is also possible tojoin hikes guided by

park staff. You need to book a place in adVancei call lC()NA on 922 29 01 29 or visit their Ofice at cane del Pllar l,santa CruZ de′ Ilenerifじ .Most ofthe hikes are Of

way to hcaven. 】 Canaria, La Palma, `iOuLa(3o:Tlcra can see outand to (]ran El HierrO ― and even on the cloudiest day down be10w yOu will probably be batlled in g10riOuS SunShinC at this height.Dcspitc this,hO、 vcver,it can gct quite cold,so bring

a decent jacket, hiking boots and long trousers― the shOnis and inip_nops brigade

oRen look decidedly uncoinfonable up here,particularly in winte■

Access to the crater has been cIOsed off

for safety reasons, but you can 、 vander

about four hours'duration,althOugh it may be ipossible tO do tlle twO― day ascent ofthc peak as a guided walk tOO.

Warning()xygen is a little shOrt up here,so

Approaches to the Park

anyone likely to suffer, cspecially those 、 vith cardiOvascular problenls, should

a10ng tO the PiCO VieiO.

′ 「 here are basically four roads approaching

the park,Of Which the C‐

824 iom La

Laguna via La Esperanza is by falrthe pret‐ tieSt.Itjoins thc C‐

821 iom La OrotⅣ a

reiain iOm gOing up.

Roques de Garcia

at

A few ki10rnetres south Of the pcak, a

EI Portillo,where thcre is an infonnatiOn booth and a cOuple ofbaノ restaurants.Ifthe booth is shut, proceed half a kiloinetre along the C‐ 821 to、 vards the peak and

bizarre set Of rocks pokes up in an unlikely fashion lヒ Onl the plains arOund the ParadOr.

you'1l reach thc CentrO de Visitantes,where

inown as the Roques deく arcia,they are E〕

′ he hard rOck ofthe dikes has been bared while surrOunding earth and rock has been I｀

you can get infOrmation,buy b00ks,look at the displays and watch a rnultilingual vide。

Iく

thc result Of erosi()n On 01d volcanic dikes.

.

The Centre iS Open iom 9.15 am■ o4.15 pm,

Monday to Friday. Fro■ l this pOint it's another 8krn or so across thc bizalTc v。 1‐

gradually swept away.The weirdest ofthe

rOCks, thc Roque Cinchado, is wearing alway faster at the base than above,and one

OftheSe dayS iS deStined tO tOpplC OVer(SO

210 Around the lsiand―

est Thcヽス

Coast

fr。

lm PuenO de la Cruz lcaves for the

Parador at 9.15 arn and returns at 4 prn. Drivers should follow signs along the CI― 821 rOad fOrthe Parquc Nacional del lleide.

THE WEST COAST Santiago del￢ eide

・

I'hcrc's not nluch to this little toッ vn,but you will probably pass through it whether you use the buses or have your own transport. Five kilornetres south on a branCh road is the sicepy hamlet of Arguayo,quite unre‐

Inarkable but possibly of interest to those

who llke cerarnics; therc iS a COuplC Of places at the north cnd oftown Whcrc local pOttcry is nladc and sold.

There are buses,Onl Playa dc las Am6ri‐ cas,Icod de los Vinos and lBuenavista del

Norte.Bus No 462 stops in Arguayo en route nromく ]ufa de lsOra tO santiago and back around to Los Gigantes.

Roque ChinchadO,pan Of Los Roques de Garcia― leftovers from erosion of volcanic dykes atthe base of Teide rnountain

Masca Six kilolnetres north‐ west of Santiago lies a true surprise packet.′「 he narrow road rises

steeply to a high ridge,only then to cascade

inaybe you shouldn't get up tOO C10Se!). Spreading outto the west are thc bald plains

down the other side into the lBalTanco de Masca in a series oftight switchbacks.´ 「 he

ofthc LlanO dc ucanca;thc road outto Los vcst;and the road Cristianos is to the south¨ ヽ

ridc alone is a spectacle, and tlle little

to Santiago del・Ilcide is in the north‐ west.

hOuses look out across the palin‐

Piaces to S●

trees and

the ravine walls to the Atlantic Occan.A cOuple of restaurants and bars have opened

y&Eat

Cainping is not allowed in the park.The Only place to stay is the Pα ″αdο ″ グ cα 物 ″ s″ ′財 ″ (● /fは

farining villagc is charming. 01d stone

922386415),`

wherc singles/dOubles cOst iom 12,4000/

up in strategic bits of the to、 vn so that the

growing stream of tourists can adnlire the wonderfui views in cOmfO威 .

1ヽ

Io,Masca is no secrct.In the late aner‐

15,500 ptas.There is a snack bar at both

noon the scrpcntinc mountain road sccms

ends of the´ Ilelcf6rico,and several restau‐

mOre like Oxlord Strcct with only two

vay

shopping days ien until christmas.HOw the tour buses even negotiate the culwes is as

rants are strategically located along the、 (■Om the no■

h).A couple ofthem are atthe

srnall infOrinatiOn booth at EI Ponillo.

Ge

ng There&Away

onc bus a dり (No 342)leaves Playa de las Am“ cas江 9.15 am(Los Cristianos at 9.30 am)ぉ r thc ParadOr,■ e Tele“ rico and El Po貢 11lo. ´ rhe return run leaves the .T｀ elef6rico at

3.40 pm and the ParadOr at 4 prn.No 348

big a inystery as the lln:Tlaculate Concep―

tion.Just how rnuch the locals appreciate thc constant llow of gawking outsiders is equally hard to gauge.If the hordcs don't appeal,try to get there carly in thc morning before tlle tour buses start to roll in.

If you happen to be around in the nrst week of IDecernber,ask about the Fiesta de la COnsolaci6n,a religious festival in、vhich

ArOund the lsland― LOS CriStianOS&Playa de las Am6ricas 211

nlany of the 10cals 、 vear traditional dress

clifris.Apartinents with t、 vin beds,kitchen,

and bring Out their tinlples and Other instru‐

bathrOOrn and lounge rooin cost 8500 ptas

ments for an cvening of Canarlan music.

fOrく )ne Or tiwo pcople,9500 ptas for threc.

Just outside town on the rOad to Santiag。 iS a Well‐ pl¨ ed teraZa・ With VieWS riま t

Eating ls alsO an enり Oyable affair down by the same pO■ .Takc your pick.unぉ ■u_ nately, the traditional lEnglish breakfast thCrne iS rarnpant throughout Los Gigantes and Pue■ O de Santiago.

down thc gOrgc tO the ocean,this nlust be onc ofthc best seats fヒ )r sunset On the island.

Hardy、 valkers cOuld trek dOwn thc Bar―

ranco de Masca to the sea, but it is a dificuit walk 10r experienced hikcrs Only

Ce

(al10W SiX hOurs hiking there and back).

462 go tO CuFa de lsora.Othcrwise,No 473

Bus No 355(two a day tげ iom Santiag。 del .Ileide; four tO/1rorn Buenavista dcl

gocs as far as Las Galletas via Playa de las

None)stOps at Masca.

buses a day cOnnect with Pucrto de la Cruz.

ng There&Away Bus Nos 493 and

Am6ricas and Los Cristianlos.IJp to six

Los Gigantes&Puerto de santiago

Guia de isora

The Acantilados de 10s Cigantes(Cliffも of the Giants)are remakably sheer rOck wans

Therc's little reason to callin here,butthose using buses in the arca inay have to change

which plunge intO the ocean a quarter ofthe

service in Gufa de lsora. Frequent buses

Way down the west coast of T:enerife.

COnneCt With Playa de las Am6ricas and

Across the sinall bight lies the little port and

other destinations in the sOuth.

rcsort town of Los(3igantes and,vi■ ually

Adeie&Barranco deiinfierno

linked tO it,Puerto de Santiago.

Both livc i"om tourism,although On a lTlore inodest scale than the Piaya de las

Am6ricas phenOmenon.Of the twO setlc‐ ments, Los Gigantes is easily the :■ Ore pleaSant(if you eXCept the presence of a blaCk Sand beaCh in lPuertO de Santiag。

).

:nfor:nation The O■ cina de TurismO 922100348),Avenida Maftima 36‐ 37,

(●

・

hcre's not a grcat deal to the village of Adeie,but iOm here you can undertake the hike up one ofthe most spcctacular ravines on the isiand, the lBarrancO del lnierno I・

(Hell's Gorge).A narrow path and stcps make the 6km trck(there and back)pOssi_ ble for:nOst peoplc of averagc itncss― reckon on at least four hours.´ 「 he deeper

you get into the gOrge,the higher its walls

iS aCtually On the COaSt at Playa de la Arena,

soar up above yOu as they also close in.

PuenO de santiag。

Various specics Ofplant native tO the isiand thrive in its shelter,and the end ofthe path is nlarked by a、vatcrfall.

.

Activities The Only real a■ ractiOn here is the cliIも ,so nlost visitOrs join a boat tOur to、

vards thcm, which usually includes

Bus No 416 runs to the centre of Ade」 e ■Om Playa dc las Am6ricas.

dolphin、vatching and thcn a swin1 0ffthc 13arranco de Masca.Excursions tO the clifls

Can also be joined iom Los Cristianos and Playa de las A:n`ricas.

LOS CRiST:ANOS&PLAYA DE LAS AMERiCAS p″ ′ α′ ・ ρο ″″′″P′ ″ ,″ α ″′ ″り2θ αθθθ What can One say about a place that lives

PlaCes to Stay&Eat The accOinITlodation

cntirely off its rel)utation as a year‐

possibilities hcre are largely lirnitcd to

round

sun and mn sccne?Thc bcaches(a■

hou帥

apartrlents.A pamicularly attractive Option

all anincial)arc nice cnough without being the wOrld's inost spectaculat and Playa de las Am6ricas and the a● acent costa AdeJe

is the gmcemlly laid out complex И′α″ ″。_

たノPο ら′ α″οル ″ ル′´ ο ('922860966), right on Los Gigantes `´ pOrt.The best rooms

haVC balCOniCs facing the Los Gigantes

arc an uninterrupted stream Of hOtel― apart‐

ments, pubs, bars, discos, kitsch sOuvenir

212 Around thc lsiand―

Los Cristianos&Playa de las Am6ricas

here's one nelxt to the

shOps and lots of bright lights and noise. Just what you'd cxpect, and takcn in the right spirit, a good laugh― for a whilc しos Cristianos is considerably anyway. 】 quieter and retains sornething more of an

ally causc havoc).´

authentiC loCal identity,b■ Only juSt.

goto Le Ro(● 922750289),in thc same

F・

tOurist Ofnce and anOthcr,Salus(● 92279 6161),just ofFAvenida dc Raね el Puig on Calle dc la Rep6blica dc Panama. If you need specinc help lor handicaps, building as Hotel Mar y Sol,Los Cristianos.

information

Tourist orice Thc main tourist oIIcc

Emergency The poncc(● 922797850)

922750633),Avenida de Raね cl

havc sevcral stations across the arca.()ne is

(●

Puig

l,isin Playa de las Am`ricas.It opens■ om

just around the corner■ om the tourist

9 aln to 2 pm,:MIonday to Friday.

ofnce in IPlaya de las Ann6ricas,another on

Avenida dc Valle Men6ndez in I_`os C;ris―

Money Banks with ATMs abound.If you need to be sent an urgenttop― up,you could

tianos.

The Crlz Roja ambulance seivice is on

try Westenl Union at Ma‖ Boxcs Etc,CaHe Antigua del Ceneral Franco 16,Los Cris‐ tianos.Amcrican Expκ ss is represe■ cd by

,922780759.([〕 all● 922 28 24 24 to16nd

Viales lnsular('922790154),江

Activities

dencial E〕 i

Resi‐

Carnis6n, in Playa de las

out the location of nearcst open pharnlacy.

For all of the folloヽ ving and any other ac‐

POst a cominunicatiOns There are sever‐

tivities avallable, you will ■nd yourself deluged with possibilities, brochures and tOuts.´ he shOps arOund Puerto de Co16n in 「

al post ofnces scattered across the area.()ne is just aЮ und tte comer iom the tourist

but agents bustle up and do、 vll the resolt

Am6ricas.

ofnce. In Los Cristianos there's one on a pedestrian mall ofT C)alle de los Saban‐ deios.Los Cristianos'postcode iS 38650.

Playa de las Ain6ricas are a good irst stop, and On the water■

.ont at Los Cristianos too.

Shop around. Diving The Centro de Buceo Los Cristianos

Ema″ To send an email,try Atiantis Nct, Calle del(:〕 eneral Franco 36,in tllc heart of

Los Cristianos.

(‐

922751375),in the Edincio Marina off

Avenida Maritilna in iし os Cristianos,offers intr()ductOry dives for 6000 ptas and open‐

water PADI courses■ om 45,000pね s.

Bookshops Libreria Barbara, Calle dc Pablo Abri1 36,Los Cristianos,has a stoCk

ofGennan,Frcnch and English books.・「 he BoOk SwOp,in the Puctto de Co16n shop‐

Fishing I)eep sca nshing trips can sta‖ i at about 7500 ptas per person lor a nve‐ hour

jaunt,or 10,000 ptasお r a hll day.

ping cOrnplex in Playa de las Arn6ricas,

cOncentrates mainly on English ianguage nlaterial.

Sailing You can hire luxury yachts or nippy ca● marans,with or without skipper,lor day

trips Or rnore involved excurslons fl,orn

922794404),

T,avel AgenⅢ 5(Dne decent agent in lLos

CCB Yacht Charters(●

Cristianos is Viaes lsiaAzul,Cane de Juan

Puclllo de Co16n, Loca1 5B, Playa dc las Am6ricas.Prices start at 45,000 ptas a day

XXII1 8.The rulc ofthumb,howevcr,is to hunt around,as in this part oftheく

]anaries

agents abound and deals corne and go with

for a sinall yacht without crew taking up to eight peOple(yOu nluSt be fully liCenSed)・

anlazing rapidity.

Plan well in advance, as you pay half to

meclical Services Mcdical centres abound

rnake a reservation and the rest six、 vccks b″ b″ you charter A crewed yacht wll cost 120,000 1ptas a day.

(duC tO the drunken braWIS WhiCh OCCaSiOn‐

¨ ¨ 一 ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨

ArOund the lsiand― LOS CriStianOs&Playa de las Am6ricas 213

Ｓ “  ａ に   ・ ︲ Ｏ    日   い０

Cl“ tom Holに

OTHER

哺

Hblid● ソ

ApamttntOs日

［ ¨

T¨ o市 o

鰤ｍ

PLACES TO STAY ays

Anih Sur(Agenり Ponsi6n La Piay8 PonSて ヤ l La Palom疇

,ondon consa a

Salus Ⅵales lnШ COri“ ●3

よ〕■ono“ e Sur

Hdd Mary● :こ Lo“ ｂ

22 Cap,t力 o

６ ２ ″お

4 Las Rocas 8oach

14M●36n Castdlano

，Ｍ Ｃ

PLACES'0'i巨 AT

u"“ a

ｂ¨ ｕ

“

liar

Bu● ● O

LOS CFSmnOS

Caosars&Egablo Ba歳:に

Atlanlis N● t Vi■ os isia A2ul

∽ lm“ y Td69耐 os Man Boxos Etc a

︲ ２ ３ ３

w“ tem unim

Polcf● Nadonal Ous Tominus l

A

υ

ズ ①浄 Los C

stianOs(&

Playa de las Aコ n6ricas

．ミ

OS CR′

S7′ ハ″ OS

“

ArLANTIC OCFAN

214 ArOund the lsland―

Los Cristianos&Playa de las Am6ricas

trips can bc had for around 3500 ptas a

tourist ofice.They can give you soinc con‐ tacts for agents dealing in apartrnents and

person for threc hours,including food.

studios.

Whale UVatching&10ther Boat Trips YOu

(1●

will probably be hounded into taking a tour On one ofthc nlany sailing boats and glass‐

AparthOtel California 6;and Markus Man‐

For more nlodcst pay packets,catarnaran

Arnong thesc are:Tlenerifc Holiday Rent

922795818),Edincio Altarnat Local

2_ba10;Custom Holidays(● 922796000),

bottolned cttamarans which set Out in

agement(● 922751064),Aparamcntos

pursuit Of 、 vhalcs and dolphins. Ylour

Po■ osin,Loca1 3.

average twO_hOurjaunt costs 2000 ptas,al‐ thOugh some wili charge double and throw in sOme food and drink of dubious value. AinOng the latter variety arc Nautisport (● 922791459).Thcy take you outお oard saning vessels_the J。 ′ ヶ Rο gα (I kid you nOt)and the Mar′ ″α″―at ll amお r abOut ive hours. aterskiing costs Other Waterspo威 s ヽア around 5000 ptas a session,or you can go paraSCending(g‖ ding■ Om a paraChut tied tO a bOat'S bChind)10r10 minuteS a a cOst of 3200 ptas.

Los Cristianos For an apartincnt, try

Anika Sur(1'922791377),Apanamcntos Azahara,I´ oca1 5&6,extension ofAvenida

de Succia. At Avenida de Suecia 60 is Premicr Managcment Serviccs(● 92279 1790). ιαPα ′ ο″α(nO phOnC),in a lanC

P′ ′ ,s′

ofFCalle `″ del〈 [leneral Franco in thc heart of

tOwn's pedestrian zone, has basic singles/ doublcs for 4000/6000 ptas― if you can gct ιαP′ の′ α(● 92279 one.Nearby,Pα ,s」 `″ 2264),Callc de la Paloma 9,is also usually ・ つ ull. rhey charge 3300 ptas a day unless yOu stay for■ lcast a wcck,in which case

Organised Tours

it cOmes dOwn to 2100 ptas.It's nothing

lfyou can't be bothered doing it under your

special.

Own steam,you can get on a day tour ofthe

(I)ccasionally you can get a sinlple roorn

island for around 2500 ptas;up to the nollh‐ ern mOuntain vi‖ age of Masca(1300 ptas);

,sα (口 at P′ ″s′ b″ Cο ″ '922790769),around

Or tO the island of La Gomcra(7000 ptas).

naine at Calle Antigua del General Franco 18.A bed cOsts 2000 ptas.

Another popular excursion is a day's swim‐

rning and snOrkelling at iLos Gigantcs,

the corner fiom the restaurant of the sarne

乱lrther nOtth a10ng■ e coast(scethe Los Gi‐ gantes&PuenO de saltiago section e`rlier).

Piaces to Stay― midd:e&top end Piaya de :as Ain6ricas Again, the best

AIso popular with some tourists is a shop‐ ping trip to Santa Cruz and an evening atthe

thing to do if you arrive here without a rcservatiOn is irst t■ /the tourist of■ ce and approach one of the above listed agents. There are at least loo apanlnent blocks of

`authentic'Castillo dc San Miguel,

、 vhere

you can cniOy a`medieVal'dinner Whnst watching knights prance about,lollowed by an evcning of dancing to 60s hits sung by a fOursOmc caned The E)riftcrs!

sin‐ all classes and plcnty of big hotels― gling,thenl out in thc limited scopc of this guide is vinually irnpossiblc.

οS α″ ′ By way of examplc,И ′α″′

Places to Stay― budget Piaya de las Am6ricas・ rhere are no pen‐

Dο rα dο

sioncs in this area. It's either expensive

up to 5500 ptas.

E′

`″

(,922790500)is a couplc of

blocks lronl the beach and has doubles for

hoteis or apartlnents,which can cornc in all shapes and sizes.・ Thc simplc fact is that the

Los Cristianos Although not on the scale

entire area is onen lull to bursting.IfyOu do

Of Playa dc las Am6ricas,there is no short‐

arrivc and would rather not wander around

agc Of apa‖ trncnts and big hOtels in Los

aimlesslyお r hours,head straightお r the

Cristianos.

ArOund the lsland― Los CristianOsを %Playa de las An16ricas 215 〃iOた ′ И″α″ S(雪 922 79 00 12), `α AVenida de Valle Mcn6ndez, has sillgles/ dOubles starting at 4000/6500 ptas. If that

fails, yOu cOuld try the hOtel apartinent block Sゴ ル″ (● 922792564)next dOOr. lYζ

Ou'1l pay at least 7000 ptas here fOr t、 vo

beds with attached bathrOOm and kitchen. A rnuch niccr version of thc sainc thing iS 2を ″ ′″12S″ ″(● 922791474),a b10ck east of Avcnida de :Los CristianOs. Prices

Although nOthing o write homc about, Rιsrα ″ ′ α″′ ′ιαEs′ α

,next doorto HOtel

Andrea's back entrancc`′at `″ calle Antigua del eneral Franco 22,at least has the distinc― (:〕

tion of being fiequented by a largely spanish clientele.´rhe set men`de la casa

iS nOt bad at 900 ptas.For a sandwich and ine fruit shake,try c″ ′たヵ。。n ca‖ e de Juan XXIII.

depend on the kind of roOnl and season,

Entettainrrlent

sta■ ing

Playa de ias Arn`ricas Where do you

at 7500 ptaS and rising to 18,000

ptas.・ he apadirnents are spacious and have

cates prOperly■ )r disabled guests.

start?Squcezed in be"een ali the restau‐ rmtSiS an OCem Ofbars and discos.At niま t the Streets are avvash with young,nOnhern Europcans splayed out in variOus poscs of ´ catatonic splendOun 「 his, apart f10m the sunshine, is what nlost of the yOunger set a・ e hereお r But Olderお lk have plcnty Of

Piaces to Eat

pubs Ofa slightly lcss hOrinonal character tO Choosc IIonl.:Lots of(〕 ennan lager and ine

「

balconies.There is also a pool.

｀′ 0■ h nOting iS〃οた′」 Иα′ッSο ′(● 922

750540;ね x922790573),which is at thc

CaStern cnd of Calle del General Franco.It is one Ofthc few places On the isian(l which

Piaya de las AmOricas The place is awash

BritiSh biterS(but dO they traVel well?)tO

With restaurants.Tlo name any seerns aln10st

bc had.

churlish.Most itinto a gcneral categOry of resol威 `intcrnational'一 you are unlikely tO

Da′ Pce

gct any fine Canarian cuisinc here, but Yorkshire pudding and pi″ りl are all very populan One pricett but tttractivc,spOt,is ιαs Cヤ ′ら vhose restaurant has , 、 “ been built Out right ovcr the water. It ′ belongs to the HOtel Jardin rropical, but

Rο ε αs β′αc力

The Gran Ballet CIisico Espaiol

perお mlS at the PiMmide de Arona(● 922

796360)Avenida de las Am6ricas,Playa

de las Am`ricas.They present sOme rca‐ sonable interpretations ofnamenc。 .・ he tip 「 is that tickcts are rnore chcaply secured throuま yOw hotclthan by caning the above

numbcr.

anyonc inay dinc therc.

For good mainland Spanish fOOd,1`υ s`″ Cα Sra′ ′ α″ο lイ0ノ ο P′ ο

,Residencial Las

vinas, is a g。 。d, authentic restaurant _ `″

something that is hard to c011le by in this place. D″ gsわ ″ 0夕 ″Pο is a 24-hour super‐

“ for thOsc doing thcir own groccry nlarket Sl10pping.It'S On the corner of Avenida de RafaeI Puig and calle de la lRep`blica de Pananla.

Los CristianOs′ his end Ofthe tourlst zone 「

is rather tranquil.In the tO,vn centre about thc only bars thurnping On intO the night are Es′ αι′ ο and

Cα asα ″も, next door to One

anOthCr at Calle dc Pablo Abri1 5.

Getting There&Away BuS TITSA buses lcave,Om thc Estaci6n de Guaguas On the Carretera Ceneral in Playa de las Am6ricas.No lll goestO Santa

Cruz and No 487 to・ 1lcnerine Sur airpo■

LOS Cristianos As in Playa de las Am`ri― cas,the bulk of the rcstaurants zero in on the 10、vest cOrnrnon denorninator and churn out cxtremely uninspired stuff tO shovel

´ 「 hey bOth pass through Los Cristianos(the

dovvn the unsuspecting foreign inasses'

gantcs,Las(〕 alletas,EI M6dano,Arona and

throats.

so on.

.

StOp iS On Caretera de la Autopista).Plcnty

ofother buses run“

t、

veen the t、 vO tO、 vris as

Well,en rOute tO destinations like Los Gi―

216 Around the lsiand―

IParque lEco16gico Las Aguilas del´ Ileide

Sea Los Cristianos is the main jump‐ off

ofllers displays of trained eagles iflying in

v over the crowd as they zero in on

point fbr ferrics to the thК e weste:η most

lo、

isiands.

mOrsels held out lor thern by their trainers.

・ rasrnediterranea operates one ortwO car Iヽ

1140u can als(o sce an odd assortrnent ofother

fOur runs and a rninifare of 1560 ptas forthc

beasties, including hippos and crocodiles. ｀ou can organise tickets through asso■ ed agents in Playa de las Arn6ricas and Los cristianos,who will put you on a nree bus

2nd and 3rd departures.・ rrasrnediterTanea

to get out there.

feπ ies a day tO San Sebastian de la Gomera.

The One‐ way fare is 1920 ptas.The compe―

titiOn colnes nrom Lineas Fred OIsen,with

Yζ

also operatesthree to four hydrofoils to San

・ Sebastian (2070 ptas). Three of these

´ 「 his isjust one ofseveral such a"ractions く )thers put on for the punters in the area.

prOceed tO Vlalle de(〕 ran lRey on the other

inClude OCtOpuS Park(the biggeSt fun park

side Ofthe isiand(2350 ptas). ・

a fcw ininutes'drive outsidc Playa de las

Iヽ

rasnleditell・ anea also has a daily ferry to

in the islands―

ali sorts of water slides;it'S

EI Hielro.Thc more convcnient one is the 8.45 anl depanure on l｀ uesdays,´ rhursdays, and、 veckends. It takes 5ン t hours,stops in

Am6ricas heading b Adejc)md a camel ranch. You will be hard put to avoid

san sebastian and thc ticket costs 2350

weli find them a useful distractiOn fbr the ankle‐ biters. In rrlost cases,fiee buses are

ptas.

For some reason、 vhich escapes hunlan にason,hc trry companies seem intent on

brochures on such thcrne parks, and rnay

arranged to get tourists to and IIorn these at‐ tractions.

discouraging you from gctting to Santa C;ruz de la Palrna.You have the choice of Trasmediterrinea'S direCt SerViCC(ThurSday and saturday Only),which departs at 8.15

pin and takes fOur Or so hours, or Frcd 01sen's daily 8 pm boat via La Gomera, which anivcs at l am.Evcrybody's idca of the pertct aTival timc is after midnight!

Getting Around

Las(Galletas A rather hodgepodge alray ofrnodern build‐ ings and semi_high riscs,it is difnculttO see

what attracts people here, except for the usua1 0rder Of sun and sca.Even the black sand and pebble beach seerns ihardly re‐ markable.Still,quite a tw pcoplc end up in this relatively quiet backwater around the cOast east,om Los Cristianos.

Bus Mo飩 ofthe TITSA buses running be‐ t、

veen Playa dc las Ain6ricas and Los

info『 rnation´ reide

Financial SL(●

92278

ristianos and to other destinations beyond have thc double function of acting as iocal

5676),Edincio Yaiza,Ca‖ c General,is one

transpOrt,with various stops along Avcnida placcs you'1l nccd to get to will be Within

Union money transtrs. ■ ncsub Marine(● 922731605),Canc de Marfa del C〕 armcn Garcia 40,organiscs

walking distance,though.The tourist。 lnce

dive expeditions.

(〕

LitOral in Playa de las Arn6ricas. Most

in Playa de las Arn6ricas has a rnap with bus stops and route nunlbers rnarked.

Of the few reps in the isiallds for Wcstcrn

Places to Stay&Eat■

lenerifc's only■ 11ly

α equipped camping ground,Cα ″P′ ″g Ⅳα ′ “

TlaxI Watch the taxis here,as sorne drivers feel tcnlpted to dispense with the rnetcr.

(● 922785118)is tt Caiada Blanca,atw k‖ Omctcs north ofLぉ Ganctぉ ,just orthc

AROUND LOS CRiST:ANOS

rOad tO Buzanada. ια Es″ι〃α (● 92273 1562), P′ ″ s′ `″General,Km l,is,as the address Carretera

Parque Eco:6gico Las Aguilas dei Teide About 3k“ l缶o■ l Los Cristianos offthe road to Arona, this much publicised attraction

suggests,a bit Of a、 valk i針 om central Las

Ganetas.But the singleダ dOubleS are OK at

2000/2500 ptas,or 3500 ptas for doubles

ArOund the lsiand― The East 217

With own bath.Right in town,P′ ′s,6″ ″わ″′ α (■ 922 78 58 03), Cane dc ｀cnezucla 4, has sinlple rooms with Own

bath for 2500/3500 ptas.()ther、 ′ ise, yOu can try at the various apannient b10cks.

Ybu'11■ nd any nuinber Of water6rOnt restaurants.Ras″

″ α″た И2″ αJ′ ´ ο,On the

“ de FernandO Salazar Water Where lCalle

(〕 onzllez runs int。 (Clallc del Varadero,is a pleasant spOt.

I‐

after the cOnquest. A sanctuary was built on this seaside site

in 1526, and in the 19th century was, rc‐

THE EAST

pl“ ed by the present church and convent.

Icading south fl・ Orn Santa C〕

tヽ

Sight here is the BasI::ca de Nuestra senOra de candelaria,the patron saint of the arChipelago. According to lcgend, an image Ofthe Virgin Mary(apparently it was actually a、 v00den bust frOnl the prow Of a WreCked Ship)turned up arOund her in the 1300s,was kept by the local(1,uanche chief and eventually passed into Spanish hands

rt口ζ ,yOu have 「 F-l autovfa,Or thc to itl_

Vo ChOices:the´

ous(E;‐ 822,which

once passed fOrthe main

highway along thc east cOast.1｀

he latter is

AlthOutt the tast day is 2 Febmaり the oF nCial CelebratiOnS take place on 15 August e Feast ofthe Assump‐ (COinCiding wi■

tiOn).PilgrimS iOm all over the isiand

ininitely slowcr and more sccnic,if scenic

COnverge On the town fOr fcstivities on bOth

is the right word tO describe the bare,

holidays.The basilica can be visited daily

sinuous iand cut up by らα″″α″σοs and carved farming terraces, buttrcssed by rough― hewn stOne walls.

Candeia

a

Ylour irst stOp inight bc Candelaria,about 15km south Of Santa Cruz.1｀ he only real

VVlas He￢ ossed c)情?

fl・

orn 7.30 anlto l prn and 3 to 7.30 prn.

On the same square as the church,Plaza de la PatrOna de(Canarias,stands a row of larger_than― life statues Of great(〕

uanche

leadCrS;behind them the Atlantic laps the black sandy beach, One of several around Candela a.

The East

218 Around the lsiand―

An original eating cx.perience in the area

requircs yOur own transpo威 .Hcad back fbr ′ dα )9.Fo■ ow the autOvfa and take exit(sα ′ the(〕 -822 in the direction of G

imar and

then the signs fbr Cuevacitas de Candelar¨ ″ (● 922504635)is outside ia.Gα sα Mα ″

thc vmage in a cave(siglpOsto.Theお od is g。

。d

and tll。

1。 cale

a one_。

m

om Santa candelaria is an easy bus ridc■ ・

、 vhite houses huddlcd around narl・ ow ianes. Fronl AricO tO the end Of the road in lLos CristianOs/Playa de las Am`ricas there is preciOus linle Of interest.

Those with wheels could make a 101k:n

detour to the coast here for POriS de Abona,a nshing village which iooks set to become a minor tourist reso■ .

The tum‐ off north at(Granadilla de

Cniz(Nos 122,123&124).

Abona for the′ rleide peak nlakes for a nice

G● Imar

drive, passing through the hamlet of Vi‐ :anoL known above all 10r its iacelwork,

The“ 's not much o■

is

Юwn,although it ・

is one of the oldest in the isiand. 「 he iglesia de San Pedro is the centrepiece, and a brief stroll in the surrounding s● eets iS pleお ant enOu」1.YOu Can piCk up a SnaCk and beerin the Tlasca La Zapateria,Calle de lでS■ CanaFiaS

l,a b10Ck」 10nl the ChurCh.

silnilar to■ at found in Venice.

Closer to Los Cristianos,the tow■ of

｀ 10u イ Ar(Dna iS an agreeable little place. α′ α″た mittt liに わ hNe a mealinthe Rω ′ “ α′′ ο,a charnling littlc French― E′ 」 Par′ ο(3α ″

run restaurant at Calie dc I)omingucz Alお nso 4,just up me road iom me bus

There are plenヽ ′Of buSeS iom Santa Cn2-No 127 is the slow one that plics the C‐ 822.

stop(No 480 fbr Los Cristianos).

South F『 om G● lmar

good conditions.Therc's none ofthe resort racket he“ either.You'11■ nd a tw places b smy,amOngthem″ οsrα ′Ca″ ′(● 92217

The ride sOuth has its inOments.shOnly

aner Gifmar,thc Mirador de Don Martin offers sweeping views of the coast and across to Cran Canaria. Yiou then pass thrOugh fanning pueblos like EI Escobonal

and Fasnia,before hitting upon:cor, an

(Э

n the coast, EI M6dano is a rather

dunlpy sort oftovvn,but the beach is pretty good.Windsurfcrs a・ e viltually guaranteed

6066),Avenida de los PrfnCipes 22,wheЮ dOubles cost up to 4000/5400 ptas singles′ ′ with own bathroorn.

Riま ton he“ ach is thc"market HOた ′

922177000),whcc rooms

evcn srnaller and half abandoned pueblo, intercsting becausc most of the houscs are

Mι dα ″ο (■

still built of brown stone rather than con‐

iom the hotel,thrce wateriont rcstaurants line up,cach nluch the sanlc as the othen

crete sllabs.

Another 7km sou■ lie Arico Vieio ald Arico Nuevo. Sttrisingly,it's the latter th■ iS■ C mOStinte“ 威ing,With preW littlC

come in誠 7000/9000,as.A stone's hrow

Several buses leave fiom here, arnong them No 470to L:鳩 Galletas and Los Cris‐ tianos.

isia de:a Palrna

HIGHLIGHTS

Morc properly knOwn as san Miguel de la Palma,the nOrth_、 vestcrllmost isiand of the

archipelago has als0 1ong been dubbed the ISla BOnita(PrCtty ISland),and it's casy enough to sce why La Palma gOtthe accO―

‐

habitants livc fairly well■

ヤ一︱■ 轟．   一

greeneStiSiandofthe Canaries.Its 81,521 in―

OC=AN

Ｇ 一  ．

63 days ayear!),La Palma's708sq kmお mlthe (OnaVeragethe Sun dOeSn'tcomc outata‖

Tι 4 NTIC

・ ■１１ ′ Ｔ ・ 一     ´ ・Ｌ ︼ 一一 一 ︵ ・

With rainfall and spring watcr mOrc plen― tiful hcre than any、 vherc eise in the Canaries

Ｂ ・          Ｄ ︲ ●■ 日” ，     ● ー ィ ， 地

lade.

ム

om acOmbindion

OfagriCulmre(it'S hard tO aVoid bananaplan‐ tatiOnS),■ Shing and the stillimodest tourist busincss_´ rhis conlparative prosperity has

Enioying a ba′ 71a9υ ′ f00n lP:aCeta de Borero in Santa Cruz de la Pa!rna

not,howevet been a cOnstant on the island,

Reiaxing at the laid―

andVenezuelahas traditionally becn the enl‐

blaCk‐ Sand

igrant PalmcrOs'favourite placetoescapeto.

back reson and

beach of Puerto de Naos

Exploring the Parque Nacional de la

SO inuCh so thatthe Latin Ainerican country

Caldera de Taburiente

is oftcn knOwn arOund hcrc as thc`cighth

Clambering an10ng the southern vol―

canoes iand hiking th()ridgeback

(Canary)iSiand'. The nourishing orchards,plantations and

Ruta de 10s V。 lcanes The ine old balconies Ofthe old town

forests cOntrast strikingly with thc hostile

of Santa Cruz de ia Palma

volcanic hcights, which fOrnl a kind of

nlountainous questiOn mark down the nliddle of thc isiand.

La Palma's mOst extraordinary taturc is

thc huge horseshOe‐ shaped rOck wall known as the Caldera de′ Ilaburiente,conl―

The abrupt and onen forbidding coastline does not Offbr thc grcat sandy stretches that

poscd Of the isiand's highest pcaks, including thc Roque de los Muchachos

attraCt sun‐ seekcrs to ILa lPalnla's morc cast_

erly neighbOurs, although the clifFs and

(WhiCh iS alSO hOme to one ofthe world's most iinP。 ■ant astrophysical observato―

rocky outcrOps are occasionally interrupted by plCaSant little black beaches. ]For this

rieS).One StatiStiC claims that,relative to its

size, La Palma is thc hilliest island in the world.Itis any case the highest island in thc archipelagO after Tenerit. Volcanic activity on the island is far ioln

the luxury Ofexploring the ravines,hanllcts

OVer, and the last rnOdest emptiOn in the

and fertilc cOuntlyside in cOmparitive

CanarieS tOOk plaCe in thc south of:La

peace.

rcason alone the island nlay be sparcd the rnassive innux oftourists seen elscwhere in

the C)anaries,allowing those who do visit

Palrna in 1971.1｀ he south end ofthe isiand

is worids away,01n thc gcnerallushness of La Pallna― a black wastcland intcrsperscd with the reds and browns of Other vOlcanic material and the pale grcen of what litic

History La Palina was not incOrpOrated into thc Crown ofCastilla until 1493,the year ater Alonso Fernllndez dc Lugo had inishcd off the isiand's nativc OppOsition.This he had

nOra attemptS tO reClaiFn thC land.

219

220 1sla de la Palina

▲

nCll脇

ν L脚

:r。

bS鮨 鰤 “

CrtB db l●

Pa:ma

″

PL,“ :“ Cana,03

ｒ ´

飢酬島

烈

PLya“ 口 “"

Isla de

La Pallna

‐ 〕 11

ATLANTrC OCEAN

9 nりa

Isia de la Palma― Activities 221

achicved only after a stroke of trickery, ′ inViting their leader, Mencey anaus6, to Iキ

abandon his inllprcgnable strOnghold in the ′ ([)aldera de Ilaburientc for talks, Only tO anlbush hiin and his rilcn at the spot no、 v

dless cOastlines that arc so pop‐ ular elsewhere in the Canaries. not tlle er、

Accommodation

shipped to Spain as a siave, but went on

C)amlping Free canlping is prohibited on the isiand. There are a Few basic canlping grounds,butto usc thenl yOu need tO apply

hunger strike and never saw the Spanish

in advance. For the only camping ground

known as El lRiachuelo. Tanaust was rnainland.

By the fonowing ccntury, thc tw

insidc the Parquc Nacional de la Caldera de

Taburiente(a6km hike iom Los Brecitos,

Guanches(known as Benahoares on this

itself 10k■l ofdriveablc diit trail north florn

iSiand)WhO had nOt been CnSiaved or wipcd out had beenjoined by a motley assortment OfSpaniSh,Portuguese,Italian and Flemish migrants.The tnain expOrts becaine sugar, ″α′ ッαs″ (Malmsey wine)and hOneyln the

Los Llanos de Aridale),call the park au‐ thoritics at Calle dc C)'I)aly 35 in Santa

meantime,the abundalt Canaly pine pro‐

room for 100 peOple― yOu need to book

vided tiinber fbr burgeoning shipyards.By the l■ e16th century,as Tans‐ Atlantic trade ■ourished,Santa Cruz was considercd thc third most impo■ ant p。 ■ Of the Spanish

Well ahead(One mOnth),and piCk up the

Cruz(● 922413141)or the park's Centro de Visitantes(奮 922497277),3.5kin east ofEI Paso.・ The facilities are basic and it has

■Om the Centro de Visitantes.Thc maximuin stay is

permit in persOn, preferably threc days,

empire after Seville and Antwerp(in

There are fOur canlping grounds outside

mOdern Belgium). The fortuncs of La Palmia to this day

the park: Outsidc Puntagorda,around the

largely followed those Ofthe Other isiands,

Laguna de Bariovento,the Refugio EI Pilar in the nOrth Ofthe Cumbre Vieia,and at S帥

the banana is quite plainly still a r:lainstay

Antonio, south‐ cast of Santo IE)oiningo de araffa. 〕 For these you nced to rnake a

Of■ e local economy,althOutt a wide range

request at the lD)epanment ofthe Environ‐

of crops are grO、 ■ l for iocal consurnptiOn.

mCnt(COnSe」 eria dC P。 lftiCa TeritOrial y Medio Ambiente)in Salta Cnlz(■ 92241

as one cash crop succeeded anOthe■ ・Tbday,

The CigarS(WhiCh Seem tO be mOre com―

(:〕

monly smoked than cigarettes by the menお lk Ofthe iSiand)aC OfpatiCular nOte

need to apply atleast a week in advance and

and concede little tO the prOduct ofHavana.

pick up yOur pennit in person at least two

1583)or EI Paso(● 922485238).You

days before yOu intend tO be in the camping

Activities

grOunds.Thc santa cruz ofnce is just

Hiking is the main activity, with the massive deprcssion of thc Caldera de

before the tunnel leading sOutll to the airpOn.

Taburientcお rming thc high point of any visit tO the isiand.()ther possible walks 、 vould take you south a10ng the v。 lcanic ridge Of the Cuinbre Vieia in the SOuthern

Hoteis&Apartrrlenヽ There is a shortage of standard accOrnil10datiOn such as hoteis

halfOfthe isiand,、 vhile the nOrtll,the dense forcst of Los Tllos is a grcen paradise far

ments are spreading in a few areas,notat)ly

relTloved i[Om the sandy reso■ Of thc Cla‐ narics,and ripe fOr cxploration. E)iving is alsO a possibility, and yOu'11 ind several dive centres around the isiand.

・I'he isiand dOes have beaches― a few of them quite pretty― but the black sand puts sonlc people off and,in any case,they are

and pensiones on the isiand.Resort apa■ ‐ at Los Cancalos,just south of Santa Cruz, and IPue■ o dcTヾ aos in the wcst,but these are airncd at pre― booked package tOurists,

mainly'om Germany and Hdland. Casas Rura!es Another plcasant option are casas″ ″″ α′ ′ s, farnlhOuses dOne up tO Cater for city‐

sotties.The Asociaci6n de

222 Santa(〕 ruz de la Palina― History

Turismo Rural has around 70 such houses

lands by sea in thc harbour of Santa(1)ruz

scattcred across tlle island, nlostly in thc

might sccm to pronlise li■

n。 ■h(Where

On the grOund).Try the Central reSerVatiOnS .922430625,fax 922 43 03 08), onnce(1●

and,as the wavcs of white walls givc way to thc fal■ ■ lcrs'grecn terl,aces and volcanic hilis,you inay bc sorcly temptcd to strike

Casa Luり an, EI P6sito 3, Puntallana(or

irnrnediately inland.

altemaives are extremely thin

wTite to Apaiado de Correos 447,38700 Santa CruZ dC la Palm→ .The“ 'S a Web SitC at inお

Ge

le.Look inland

13ut hang on,becausc hidden fiom view as you gct offthe fercy is a quite enchanti‐

ng old town centre,leaturing some inc

lapalma.com.

cxamplcs ofold Canarian architecturc gath‐

ng There&Away

ered in and around sorne charllling little

Air From La Palma there are■ equent con‐ ´ enerifc, but fcwcr to (:〕 ran nections to

plazas.

I｀

canaria.ヽyou can also get limited nights t。 sorne:nainland Spanish cities,whilc charter

nights link the isiand dircctly with sorne Europeall destinations.Sec Gc■

ing Thcrc&

A、 vay

in thc following Santa Cruz de la Palma sectionお r more de鯰 1ls.

Sea Feries iom Tenerit(Santa Cュ :z and

History The bay that is the town's window on thc worid was known to the Guanches as Tim‐ ibucar,and the area around it as・

Iledotc.・

I｀

1lc

isiand's Spanish conqueror,Alonso IFerllin‐

dcz dc Lugo,had the irst breakwater built, along with thc scttlcnlent's irst public buildings.

As Spain's inlperial intercsts in the

Los Cristianos)and La Golmera alTive in &Away in the following Santa Cruz de la

Ainericas grcw in thc 16th century, so did the fortuncs of Santa(1)ruz, whosc dock‐

Palrna section for rnore detalis.

yards soon acquircd a rcputation as thc best

Cetting Around

town's impo■ ance thtt King Felipe II had

Bus As with the isiand ofTenerine,you are

the irSt JuZgadO dC IndiaS(COurt Of the

beter off buying a lBonobus card if you

indias)installed here in 1558. (1)fcourse,such prosperity did not go un―

Santa Cruz de la Palma.Sce Cetting There

in ali thc Canary lsiands. Such was thc

intend using the buses a lotto get around the isiand.・ 「 hey start at 2000 ptas and represent a(discount of about 30シ 6 ofF the nornlal in‐

noticcd, and Santa Cruz was fiequently

dividual fares.They can be bought at bus

besieged and occasionally sacked by a suc‐ cession ofpirates,including those lュ ndcrthe

stations and various

colTlmand of Sir Francis Drake.The worst

shops such as

ncwsagents.´「 here are 18 bus lines,cover‐

atack carnc in 1553,when Jean Paul de Bll‐

lanCOun(alSO kinOWn aS JalTlbC dC BOiS,Or

ing most inain destinations, although you inay ind yourself needing to changc buscs (お r inStanCe,tO get iOm Santa CruZ tO the srnall bcach rcsod:of Pue■ o dc Naos,you need to change at Los Llanos de AFidanC).

to、

Santa Cruz de:a

Santa Cruz is a fairly smalltown,and■ lost of what is of intcrcst lies within a few blocks ofthe waternront Avenida Maritinla, which runs n。 ■h iom the ferry port.It is about a 15-minute walk'om the po■ to the

Palrna

Pegleg)unleaShed a inerCilCSS aSSault On thC vn.

Orienlhtion

The row oF seemingly lnodern,glcaming―

Barranco de las Nieves that vi■ ually lnarks off the northern confines ofthc town. Thc hcart ofthc old town and the prettiest part of Santa(〕 ruz de la Planl lies around

whitc buildings that grects the travcllcr who

Plaza de Espaia and Calle de C)'I)aly,

′ ・ ρο α′ ο″ノみθθθ ′″′

Santa Cruz de la Palrna―

known to thc Santacruceros as thc Callc

Infolination 223

C)n Plaza de la(〕 onstituci6n stands the

pOSt OfiCC(a tW d00rS dOWn■ Om the

Real.

local ofnce of the Falangc ― the ruling information

fascist party under Franco),and on the rise

TOurist orice The o■ cina dc Turism。 (● 922413141)is at Canc de O'Daly 22,

behind it(Chmb the StairS abOut 100m SOu慟 ofthe post ofnce)the modest 16th― century

and opens from 8.30 anito l pnl and 4 to 6

Ermita de Nuestra Senora de:a Lu2,OnC

pm Monday to Friday,and iom 10 am to 2

of a few smali chapeis in Santa Cruz.It

pm Saturday.

opens for Mass only■ om 7to 9 pnlon Sat‐ urday and lrOnl ll ani t0 1 pFn On Sunday. Another,dedicatcd to San Sebastian,is On the street of the same na11le behind thc

C)onsulate Gcrnlany has an honorary con‐

922420689)at Callc de O'Daly

sulatc(● 39_

lglcsia de San Salvado■ Just north of the Parador ori the water‐

Money A cluster of banks lincs Calle de

O'Daly.ヽ 4estem Union has a representa‐ tive at thc airpo■

.

Post&Cominunications The COrreOs y

■ont is a series Of wOnderful oid houses, gaily paintcd and spOrting a vcry varied series ofbalconies.Some ofthese datc back to thc 16th century.′ 「 his penchant for bal‐

Tle16grafos is on Plaza de la Constituci6n.

conies came with Alldalucfan migrants and was inodined by Portugucse inЛ uences.

The town centre is loaded with public

Thc style was also exported,and similar

phOnes.´ he pOstcOde for santa{cruz de la Palina is 38700.

balconies can be secn on noble hOuses in ｀ vienezuela, Cuba and Peru, where they

r・

came to bc part ofthe so‐ called `colonial

Bookshops・ `Ou atcan pick up a widc range of foreign papers I_′ ibrcria cervantes, Clalle de C)'Daly 4.′ he be,t bookshOp is Li‐ 「 brerfa l■ asera,Calle

dc Alvarez de Abreu

22.

style'of building. ′ he fact thcy are there at all is perhaps F・

nlore duc to luck than anything elsc.King Felipe II apparently disapproved of bal‐ conies,and sent orders to thc isiands that

they be torn down.The ship carrying the

Medical & E口nergency.The lHOspital dc

royal cOrnlnand apparently never nladc itto

Dolores(● 922423262),Calle de Ram6n

La Palma,and sO the g00d citizens ofSanta

y CaJal s/n,is about ha11ヽ valy betl″ cen Plaza

C'ruz lnaintaincd thcir prizcd balconies,safe

ou can cali the Cruz Roja(Red CЮ ss;奮 922

in their igllorance.

de Espaia and Plaza de San Francisco.1lζ

411695)お r

an ambulance.

The Policia Nacional(‐

922411237)

Pia2a de Espana

ヽ Vander nonh along

Calle de C)'I)aly and you end up in the hean of old Santa Cruz.´ he main fa9ade ofthe 「

arc at Calle de P6rez Gald6s 16, and the local Guardia Civil(● 922411100)at La

Ayuntalmiento(tOwn hall)is a 16th‐

Portada.

century renaissance creatiOn, alld the

The O:d Town

irnposing:g:esia de lSan lSaivador dates iom the samc pcriod.Inside the tOwn hall,

The curiously named Cane de O'Daly is the rnost venerable strect in Santa C,ruz,dOnll_ nated by the 17th‐ century late‐ rcnaissance

Pa:aCiO de Sala2ar, nOW h01Tle tO the tourist ofnce.Along both sides ofthe pedcs‐ trianised strcct is a rnix Of shOps,bars and ofices,nlost of thcnl housed in ccnturies‐

old Canarian inansions.

therc are lnagnincent tea trce ceilings,。 r α′′ ″α′ s.Much thc sarne can be said Iそ )r lο

the`sο ChurCh,WhiCh bOaStS a ine″ ″d夕α″ ceiling, rich in traditiOnai n10tifs like the eight‐ point star whOse r00ts lic in rnainland

Spain's Moorish period.Noteworthy arnong century Flenlish carving Cr,s′οグ′′ οs iイ ン′ αrο s. the art、 vorks is thc 16th‐

く〓コくＬ くコ ロ０ くコ０一

224 Santa Cruz de la Palma

Santa Cruz

de la Pallna ミミ≧凛、 ▼17

AFLANTIC OCEAN

2 Ca釧 ‖ o“ ￨● (日

Balm●

Vi● On

L Vir9en)

4 Polに

5 Mu“ Ю dB Eヤ o9嗜 f籠 `as Nedonal

q"do9は

○

E70

★41

れ議■

042 /

7 Casa“ Hu6spodos ,3 Apammonto9●

F"no

15 Pa口 dbr Ne● onal 18P● 国 Camぬ s 32 PorS6● L Cubooa “

P“ ●

B● h籠

“

“ EAT PLACES TO

｀ /｀

,

/ ` ′

、 ′ 0“ ′ 鑢 7)1=メ l“中 開

=′

9く ,osn■ os 14 La Placeta

22R“

uttnte Canad“ “

６ ８ ” １ ２６” ” １ ４ 一 ６ ７８ １ １ １１ ２２ る２ ２２”∞３”“““”

口 “

∼ noas Ci● ll●

,

,

NetumOs y Pintuロ

sa“ San F=m“ ∞

0● ヨllb“

Emlta“ San "ntaJo“ Catalina

￨り

San Sal,“ r

l●

ubl● “

“

Tr"i"dnemnea `a cervantOs ubttra T腱 ,“ Ayuntamわ nb “ pam 円 "a“ca“la(あ srゅ 1611Ca 日uiol● cm随 san“msu`n “

TOudg omc。 Bodogune dd Modb

German Hono強 り Consul■ o COmos y To169薗 os Emna do Nuod鯰 Soわ m“ ほLu2 39Tは nqp● ■03 inSular La Palma (b● S)

Tm"“ es (b¨ )

G崚 da CMI cOfl● ●● ra Tomtol」 ソ

lnsuar□ Palni

lsia de:a Gomnera Top Le■ i Sunset view of Pico del■ eide,Tenerife fro「l Alto de(3aralonay on La(3omera

Top Rlght:Playa de Herrnigua

Bottom:Agulo

ONMICN SiMONIS

DAMIEN SIMONIS

DttMIEN SIMONIS

:sla de La Co口 nera Lefti Terrace farming,Via‖

e de Gran Rey

Top Righti Cemetery on the heights above Alolera

Middle Right:Houses of San Sebastian de la GO子 Υ lera Botton、 Righti C〕

losed chapel at Mirador dellgualero,south of Parque lNacional de Gara10nay

︲ ●︱ 二

´ r｀

hc squarc itself boasts a inc。

ld loun_

tain and is nanked by grand inansions.

Special Evcnts 225

yOur nOsc in at the lcasa d91 (●

・ rabac。

922429501),Calle dc Alvarcz dc

Abrcu 37.

StyleS(but COnSiderably rnOre reCent than

Specia:Events

those on Avcnida Marftimめ ,as you head

Every ive ycars(ncxt in the year 2000),

nonh a10ng calle de P6rez de BritO.

Santa Cruz really puts on its party clothcs

Around the 13arranco de las Nleves′ rhc

おr the Junc‐ July celebration ofthe Baada dc la Virgen dc las Nicvcs(Descent of Our

lglesia de lSan Francisco is anothcr re‐

naissmcc ef10n,alsO with mudojar cc ng andjammed with works ofart,the maJOrity ofthem unmistakably baroque.

The restored cOnvent next dOOr nOw houses the cornbincd Museos de Etno‐ grafia,Arqueo:o91a,Ciencias Natura:es y Pintura. In here yOu'1l ind everything

Lady ofthc Snows).It is the principai ncsta in the whole isiand― inding a place tO stay

at this tinle without having booked in

´ advance will be no casy rna■ er! he high 「 point is the`dance Of the dwarves'、 vhich takes placc along Calle dc()'Daly. Down this street also inarch the proces‐

sionsお r Camaval(Februav)and Eastcr

fl:orn Guanchc skulis to cupboards of

VVieck,when nlcmbers of lay brotherhOOds

stuf〕 Fed

paradc in their blood― red robes and tall,

anirnals and ish;shclis and cOrals;

traditional houschold utcnsils; and a very

pOinty hOOdS(nOt unCOrninOn in SpaniSh

nice portrait of Franco upstairs in anlong a fairly drcary collectiOn Of generally littlc_ kno、vll Spanish altists.1｀ he。 ld cOnvent is

the Ku Klux Klan!).

itselfwOnh the visitthOugh.Itis Open iOm 9 am to 2 pnland 4to 6.30 pnl,ヽ /1onday to Friday.Adrnission costs 300 ptas.

P′ ″sf`″ Zα C″ bα ″α(●

No■ h across the leaら ′Plaza de la Alaineda(a good Place to hover over a beC→ ,it i00kS aS thOugh COluinbuS'Sα ″′α iイ α ″」 α gOt stranded here.But no,it's actual‐

Easter parades,but chillingly rerniniscent Of

Places to lStay―

budget 922411354),Calle

dc(D'Daly 24,is something of a travellers' ´ hostel and the pick of a small crop. 「 he clean and a■ ractive singles/dOubles in this

old Santa Cruz house cost 3000/4000 ptas.

ly a rather weird idea forthe town's Museo

IJnlike rnost places Ofthis grade,the basins in the roorns even have hOt water.

Naval! Locals know it as EI Barco de la Virgen(thC Virgin'S BOat).It OpenS iOm

([〕

9.30 anito 2 prll and 4 to 6.30 pnl,Monday to lFriday.Adinisslon costs 300 ptas.

On the waterttOnt,the Casti:lo de Sanlh Catalina was one of several erected in the 17th century to help fbnd off pirate raids.

Across the ravinc and higher is a rather

smallcr vcrsion of the sanlc thing, the

Casti::o de la Virgen, while 100ming century church, the iglesia de la E:ncarnaci6n. That so many grald churches went up in behind it is still another 16th‐

much the saine period is e10quent testimo‐

′セ″sノ び′(〕 α″α″,α s(1口

' 922 41 31 82),

alle de A.(3abrcra Pinto 27,has no charnl,

but it'sOK.Singles/doubles with own bath cost 3000/4300 ptas.Cheaper rooins with― out own bath cost 2300/4000 ptas. ′セ″ 6′ βι Й (● 922411846),Ca■ e de `α uz 35,has basic singles/ laヽ ′ irgen`″de la L′ doubles lor 2000/3500pね s.It's across■om the Ennita dc Nuestra Seiora de la Luz. Thc Casα dι 〃″ιspθ d′ sИ ″ ″σ力α(● 922

411117),Canc de P`rez Brito 79,is about as cheap as they cornc here,with roorns lor

2000/3000 ptas.()nly prOblent is,it seemed very closed at the tiine ofwriting!

ny to the prosperity of Santa Cruz at the time.

Cigars lf you want to sec hOw these big brown tobacco sticks are handrnade,pOkc

Places to Slay… И′α″′ α″

middie&top end

ゎsι αF″ ′″た (●

922415636),

`″ Callc dc IP6rcz Brito 49,is a good bet,es‐ pccially for travellers who come in thrces.

Ｆ〓 ＞

ou'1l sce nlore such noblc houses,■ lost Of thern adorned with balconies in a variety Of

，

1lζ

Ｏ Ｅ ″ ● 爾 Ｆ＞ ■

Santa Cruz dc la Palina―

226 Santa Cruz de la Palina― Places to Eat

ng There&Away

There are no singles. Srnaller doubles/

Ge

triples cost 4500/5700 ptas, while bigger ones with balcony and vic、 vs cost 7500/

Air The poor sea links make wingsthe only sensible altemative for rnost people― for this reason flights are onen b。 。ked s。 lid. Binter connects La Palma airport(● 92241

8700 ptas. The apanments come with kitchen and lounge. The town's top addκ ss is the watcriont Viα Pα ″ αdO′ ノ ′α′(● 922412340;fax 922

`Fο 411856),Avenida Maritima 34,where

1540)with Tenerit No■ c(eight dany)and Gran Canaria(two dally).Air Europa has

rOOFnS COSt 7500/11,000 ptas.

schcduled flights to half a dozen nlainland Spanish cities,including Madrid and i3arce‐

Piaces to Eat

lona.()therwise, trafic consists of direct chatter nights,mostly,。 m cemany,with

A great little place lor a beer and ■1ling arepa is(3ο s″ s,Avenida Maritinla 70. `ο If you happen to have a litle riloney in your pockets,you should really spili some of it at ια」 P′ α ο′′ α,Placeta de Bon・ ero l.

a tw nrom Amsterdam and Zurich.

´ 「 he airpo■ is 7klTl south of Santa Cruz. You'11■ nd several car‐ rental agents,an ex‐

Change bureau(With WeStem Un10n mOney tmnstr representative)and an ATM thec.

The reStaurant iS upStairS and the CanariaFy

intenlational rnenu is superb.A nlain dish

口lus There is no bus station. T'ranspoltes

wili cost upwards of 1500 ptas.Ifthis is too

lnSular Iン a Palina buSeS SerViCe mOSt deSti

much,come by for breakfast_a barraquit。

nations on the isiand and depart

in the little square is a good investrnent.

う rorn Caretcra BaJamar,virtually on Plaza de la

29,is a mid‐ priccd placc山 誠 oftrs hcarッ

Constituci6n.1｀ hc farc to Los Llanos dc Aridanc is 570 ptas and tol:Fucncalicntc 425

mcals.The meat dishes are good and cost

ptas.

around 1300 ptas.Across the road,at No 27, 1lα ″ 」 RI′ srα ′ ″ α″′ ι五 」 ο doesn't iook like

Taxi｀ Yiou can usc taxis to get arOund, but

llluch,but it is popular with SantacrucerOs

they aren't a chcap rnode oftransport.The

especially lk)r lunch.

trip to Pue■ o de Naos on the west coast,for

R′s′α″ ″ α″′ ιCα ″α′′ αs,Avcnida

Marftima

,ノ

For a quick burgeち piZZa (nothing

special)or a hil mcal,thc Caた た′″ Иν ′ グα,in the sarne building as the cincrna at `″ Avenida del Puente 37,is not bad.

cxanlple,will burn a 4000 ptas holc in your pockct.

Car&Motorcycle The C‐ 830 heads nonh out of Santa Cruz lor Puntallana and On

Entenain:1lent Cinema You can catch movies atthe Mul―

around the no■ hern half of the isiand to Puntagorda. For Fuencaliente, lollow thc

′ へvenida cornplex, Avenida del Pucnte 37.

short stretch of highway to the airport and lollow the signs do、vn the C‐ 832.Ifyou're

ticines

Caf6s&Ba閥 、Avcnida

off to lEI Paso and on to Los Llanos de

Maritima is lined With Ca“ S,Z″ ″ θ′Fα S CuiCe ba厖 )and barS Of a more nocturnal co19uring.´ 「 he 13odeguita

Aridane and´ riazacollte,you can follow the Fuencaliente road and turn off、 vhen you

you could movc across to the namc!css bar

Sea Trasmcditerrinca tries are tw and

at No 65. For discos, you nccd to hcad

far bctwccn.Two a wcck(Friday and

del Medio,(E)alle de Alvarez de Abreu 58,is a bright li■ le drinkery.Laterin the cvening,

down thc coastto Los CancajOs.

Things to Buy A nea inarkct is hcld on Sunday at thc car park on`Avcnida Maritirna_

sec the appropriate signs,or takc the(Car― retera de Gali6n for Breia Alta.

Sunday)depan at l amお r Los Cristianos (Tcncrit),wherc they arive at 8.15 am. ´

「 he saine ferry proceeds then to San Se― bastian de la《 ]。 nlera_The other、 vay,you don't anivc in Santa Cruz until al■ er inid‐

Around the lsland―

night!Anotller leaves at 2 prn on・

I｀

IParque lヽ

uesday

fOr Santa CruZ de Teneri偽 (ariva1 8 pm). The miniinum fare in cither casc is 2690 ptas.A bcd in a cabin will cOst up t0 5000 ptas.

AL`neas Fred 01sen fery depa■ s daily

こ aciOnal de la(1)aldera′ raburientc 227

Los Cancajos A srnall strip ofblack‐ sand beach forrris the

nuClcus of the cast coast rcsolts.About 40 rninutcs'walk sOuth Of the capital,there's not an awfu1 lot to say abOut thc place― apart nrorn the beach,16 sets of apartments

分om Los Cristianos■ 8pm,cans in tt San Sebastian de la Gomcra and then prOceeds

and a scattering Of restaurants, bars and

to Santa Cruz de la Palma,、

ccntre(● 922181393),Centro Comercial de los Canca,os,Loca1 27. R`s′ α γ′ α′′ θ7F″ ″α overi00ks thc bcach,

vhere it anlives

arOund l anl(muSt bC a COnSpiraCy!). It turns around an hour iater fOr thc return

joumey.The minimum one‐ wり

fare is

2690 ptas,or 8800 ptasお r a cabin(goodお

r

discos.There is also thc San 13orondon divc

and for more traditiOnal dishes try Aイ ン s`″ Cα ′ ″わ,in CentЮ cancajos,Loca1 314.

Thc two discos,Dccada and Guaran`,arc

One OrtヽVO paSSengerS). 1lζ

ou can buy tickets at the pOrt Or at travcl

´ agents. rrasmcditcrranea has an ofincc at

Cane de O'Daly 2.

Around the lsland

Getting Around To′ Fronl

the,Airpo威

the premier nightspOts On the whole isiand.

Buses leave cvcry

thirty min es On the quarter hour iom the airl)ort and take about 20 ininutes,stOpping

PARQUE NACiONAL DE LA CALDERA DE TABURIENTE

at Los(ClancaJOS and then the p。 ■ and

Scan the enorinOus and ancient stonc walls

Parador.The fare is 160 ptas.A taxi will

of this natural fOrtress l[om the south and

cost about 1000 ptas.

you can sec how the tell・ ain presented sOine―

thing of a challengc tO the invading BuS BuSes to the beach at Los CancttOS

Spaniards back in the late 15th century.

(125 ptas)arc fairly 6requent StOpping there

I‐

en route to thc airport.It would take you

Icre the last of thc 13enahoares under

about 40 minutes to walk it.

ヽ4enccy′ 「 lanausi tOOk refuge and there、 vas precious little Alonso Ferl14ndez de lLugo

AROUND SANTA CRUZ DE LA PALMA

Could do to dislodge them.:Luckily for hiin, the chief seeined tO have sOine sort of faith

SantuariO de laヽ ′ irgen de las Nieves A3.5km hike or drive inland ioln Santa

CruZ(f0110W thc signs iom the Avenida Marftima where it crOsses the BarancO de las Nievcs),stands La Palma's main obiect of pilgrirnage.

・ 「 his

inodest little 1 7th‐

century church is

in the fairly standard (〕 anarian colonial

style,whitewashed,with tea tree balconies

and a ine mud● ar ceiling.Above the altar iS plaCed the inlage ofthc Virgin Mary that

in the honour Of his OppOnents and was induced to abandon his eyrie 10r`talks'tllat proved to be nonc lother than an 01d‐ fash‐ loned anlbush.

・ he I)arque Nacional dc la Caldera de ・Ilaburiente was declared a national park in I｀

1954, the lourth in Spain. Its massive, broken wa11 0fv。 lcanic rOck is about 10krn in diametcr,and its only real opening,the

aptly named Baranco de las Angustias (Gorge ofFca),lies tO thc sOuth‐ west.The

is brought in grand procession down tO Santa CmZ CVe,■ VC yCarS(See SpeCial

walls drop in sOine placcs as nluch as

Events above).The spot is charming,sur‐ rounded by green slopes and palrn trees,

shans of rock known as″ 。9″

2000rn,an(l their crests arc crenellated by

he park

`s.「 leveis covers 4690 hectares and at its iowor

and those who lwalk up will at least be re‐

it is covered in dense thickets of(3anary

Warded by the restaurant bar.Bus No 14

pine.

comes up iOm sanm cruz.

All may scem impressively still as you

228 Around the lsland―

Parquc Nacional de la Caldera´ raburicntc

Frorn both thcsc p()ints several walking

contcnlplatc this extraordinary feat of acci‐

dental engineering,butthc forccs oferosion are hard at work.:Landslides and collapsing rOques are not inlrequent,and solne geolo‐ gists give thc caldcra only anotl■ cr 5000 ycars before its iast vestiges inally disap― pear― tirne cnough for us to adrnire it at

trails lead loff into the park.

The No■ h A secondary road snakes across this half Ofthc isiand,and skirts the nonh‐

ern peaks of the caldera. Coining fronl Santa(Cruz,the road is signpostcd(1)bser―

vatorio Astroflsico del Roquc de los

leisurc.

In 1825 the《 :lell■ an geologist,Leopold

von lBuch, applied thc Spanish terrn `Caldera'(a large,deep pOt Or CauldrOn)tO what hc assumed to be a massive volcanic cratet the Caldera de Tlaburiente.The telTn stuck,to be used as a standard tenn for all

such volcanic cratcrs thc world ovc■

Muchachos.ヽ

vn vehicle

as nO buscs pass `ou'1l this need way. your o、

lf you're not keen on long hikes and sinlply want to get an idca of what this nlassive erodedヽ wall and its nlany gorgcs look like, a drive up this way and a few

Problem■ s,it ap:℃ ars thtt this caldcra,al‐ thoutt indced largely made up of volcanic

strategic stops is the best way to approach what is aner ali the isiand's star atraction. ′ he most spcctacular iookout is ll・ om thc

rock,was not the result of a inassive crup‐

Roque de los Muchachos(at 2426m the

tion,but has rather bcen slowly excavated by crOsiOn Over■ e minennia.

to.The turn‐ ofFfor the】 ミoquc is the sanie as

water nOws mainly along underground channeis but occasionally crashes headlong in waterね 1ls down the caldera's inany stcep vest coast ravines. It ■o、 vs to the south‐ 、 along the lBarranco de las Angustias and is siphOncd offto ilTigate the lowiands beyond the park.

I｀

iSiand'S highCSt pOint),'WhiCh yOu Can driVe

for the observatory, which inay

″ο′ be

visited.A sign proclaiins that only autho‐ rised personnci nlay enter― this appears to refcr only to the observatory buildings,al‐

thoutt what to make of the barier across halfthe road is anyone's guess.Sllould you wish to avoid alithis,there is a spotto leave your Car On the main rOad itSe11 lrOm Where

Approaches to the Park

you can scranlble up to the sanle point

The 15outh No roads run rightthrough the

(lЮ niCally

park.F.rorn thc south you have two possible

apprOaches.The most common is■ om El

l力 t paSt he ObSeWatOw build‐ ingS)a10ng a Clealy markCd path・ The SpOt is signposted Mirador de la ([)aldera dc ′

Paso, 3.5km cast of which lies the park's Centro de Visitantes.Itis open iom 10 am

the turn― ofF for the observatory and】

to 2 pm and 4 to 6 pm Monday to Friday,

de los Muchachos.

Ilaburicntc and lies a few kilornetrcs east of

Roque

and,om 10 am to 3 pm Saturday.It can help plan walks in the park. 1ヽ Iext to the :no■ h for La Cum‐ centrc is thc tunl‐ o量

Hiking in the Park A handy,although far'om complctc mapto

brecita, a7km drivc that takcs you to a ″′ ′ αdο ′(100kOut)ald inお nn江 10n b00th in

pick up ifyou don't already have a sepa・ atc walking guide is publishcd by thc Ministe―

the southern reaches of thc park.・ far as your rnotor will get you.

I｀

hat's as

Alternatively, ■om Los Llanos de Aridanc(follow the signs lor Los BarTios) a dill trail lcads 10knl into the park and ends at Los Brecitos― the trail follows the Barral,co de las Angustias in placcs.From there it is a 6knl hike to thc park's only camping g・ ound(scc Accommodation atthe beginning OfthiS ChaptCr).

rio de Mcdio Ambiente(Environment

″″ α da物 ら″ガー Ministry)帥 d entitled Cα ′ ′″′ ′. lt indicates some walking trails and cOrnes with descriptions of the flora and fauna in the park.′ he inf011.lation b。 。th at r・

the Mirador de la Cumbrecita sells them for 400 ptas. ´ 「 he trails arcn't in bad shape, but sign‐

posting is scarce. Come prepared for all 、 veathcr extrenles― when the sun is shining

Around thc lsiand― Parque Nacional de la Caldera′raburiente 229

S● rry S● rry Night When you gaze up into the crysta:aκ h Of stt above the Canary:s:ands,you αinnot help but get some sense of whatitis thd exctes astronomers from the wodd over The qua:ity ofthe skyis such thatthe isiands have been singied out as one ofthe bestloα

ons in the

wond for eanh‐ bound Observation of the un erse.Madrd even has the Law ofthe SIS′ (pa(sed in 1988)in piace to protect what t consides an lastronom:ca:reSeⅣ e'.The law

govelrns such issues as‐ outdoor lighting andi air Fx,IIution. in January 1992,the()icina‐

T6cnica para:a prOIloci6n dOlla Ca::dad dei Cielo obchnica1 0価 ce forthe PЮ tedion of the Sky'S Quatty),VttSSO● vp● teep a permanent WatCh. For rr)ore than 30 years astrono:vlers have been peenng into the night i“ narrlent here. ぉ are∞ Ordinatedり thellsm O de、 ャ。fisica de cana as(Ac),based atthe Universidad de ia Laguna on■ enenね .:n1979,Spain ag“ ed to intmationaiise the e椰 o■ signing a protocoithatied to the 1985.inauguration of the European Northerr1 0bservatc)‐ ry,shared by 12 1″ estem European nations.Resealに )he爬 ,wo「 king On a:i so■ s of p“ )iedb have to applyぅ 。rume On thete:escOpes,with a nth Of he a‖ 。α Ons reseived for spanish

Their eff。

,

scientists.

藤)ma綺 ■9,optics and infm“ d indn■ menねlon.The mostimpo■ ant te:escopes here are those of the:salac Newton(3roup,

extmgaladic supemovae,and dudies on bles(Ю whose big gun is the state‐

of`th(卜 a威 lVi‖ iam

Hersche:￢ eiescopel an Ang:o・ Dutch instru‐

ment wih a 4.2m diameter itも one oF the most advanoed te:escopos onthe p:aneti The isaac Newton te:eSCODel‖ Ser haSla diameter of 2.5m. .‐ 11111111111 ・ Amono others is al seriOs oflnewltech‐ gy`leSCOpeS(Nτ FI'￨:h`11di19■ aiy'S Gameo pЮ led(3.5m diameter)● nd the Sα in‐ n。 !。

dinavian countrieS'iointlerOrt,lthe 2.5m

Nodic Opt餞 l B曖 the sun

blll""(NOr).￨ l aiso

se on Roque de ios

Muchachos, as a new and POWe:fui so:ar teiescopecalled LESTls pianned.:ts addition wil: rnake the oombined :メ ヽ Cl observatories the wo■ d's ieading oentre lor so:ar astぃ onc)‐

my . The obser、′ atories are not open to the pubiic. ‐

:"

C)bseぃ け ato口 o

“

230 Around the lsiand―

The No■ h

it's hot,but it can easily turn nastily cOld.

thc Pico dc la Nieve(2239m).A2km stro‖

AIways take watcr and,On iOnger walks,

brings you to the peak frorn where you have

food supplies.

ine views ioin east tO west acrOss thc

The South Fro:Tl the Mirador de la Cuin―

basin ofthc caldera.ThOse whO havc given themSeiVeS the Whole day(and aranged fOr

brecita you can unde:take a cOuplc Ofshort, painless strolls.´ he irst leads lkrn along a

a car to be waiting for thern in the car park

atthe Roque de los Muchachos),can in fact follo、 v a narrOw path right around to the

F・

track west of La Cuinbrecita to another iookout,the Mirador l′ orno dc las Chozas. A litle more difncult is the trek nO■ h(ini‐

Roquc.11lou will then havc thc cxtraordinary

tially downhin)to thc Mirador Punta de los

len.

Roqucs.A rnore challenging hikc strikes Out

inside the castern wall of the caldcra.

Although not too dilllcult,this six,hour walk gets hairy at a fbw points,and a fear of heights is dcfinitely not a recipe 10r

Reckon on about tv′ o,hours cach way.

success!

north‐ north‐

east to EI Escuchadero, up

Anothcr possibility,ifyou have yOur own WheeiS(inね Ct dOing anything in the park

presupposes that lyou are independently mOb‖ e),iS tOお ‖。W theお rk in the Юad tO Valcncia nronl the (E;entro dc Visitantes ´ rather than that to La lCu:Tlbrccita. 「 he asphalt road bccolrnes a dirt irail for a bit,

thcn rccovers its bitumcn covering.Shortly thereaner anothcr track leads ofFto the le■

.

Follow this lor about 10 minutes to a nat sectiOn Of rOad,where yOu'1l sec a walking trail that headS nOrtll(right)tO thC PiCO BC‐

jenado(1854m).This is about an hour's walk,and thc reward is One Ofthe rnOst in‐ spiring vic、vs out over thc caldcra.

spectacle Of the caldera constantly on the

If you don't wantto do this whole walk, the drive west algiOrds several oppo■ unitics to stop atlookouts and lean out Ovcr One Of

´ nature's n10st renlarkable balcOnies. rhe laSt Of thCSC(heading WeSt)iS SignpOSted Mirador dc la Caldera de Taburiente.・ 「 here is roorn ofFthc road to park abOut four cars. FrOFn here headヽ VCSt abOut 100nl and tO thC

lcn youll scc a rocけ

path winding up t。

the top.

It's a quick 10-minutc Or so scranlble past sornc ofthe observatory buildings tO a fine lookout over the caldcra,and a little fbl￢

thcr

to the distinctive rOck igures Of the`lads'

From thc camping ground(itsclf a 6km trek■om Los Brecitos),various walks can bc donc.´「 hey lead nollh part Ofthe way up

SOFlle Ofthe raVineS SliCed intO the nOnheril walis of the caldera,and circuits inside its

heai beloW In summer(June to August), park guidcs iead day‐ long excursiOns f10rn

the canlping grOund. Triou need to contact the([〕 cntro de Visitantcs irst to book in. Just near thc canlping ground, the clear water ioin several barancos runs tOgether in the sO‐ called Playa de Taburiente,where tired hikers can give themseives a rcncsh_ ing rinse dO、 vn.

0カ α σ力οs)that (″ ″

constitutc the Roque de

los Muchachos.

THE NORTH

Punね ‖ana San Juan dc Puntallana still retains sOmc signs Ofits centuries Ofinhabitation,among theni the ig:esia de lSan Juan Bautista, but there is really not a lot to this small and

largely neglccted hanllet.

C)utside the villagc, howcver, is One Of those delightful litle inds still possiblc On

an island relatively undarnaged by rnass tourisin.Piaya de los No9ales is a cOm‐ Paratively long stretch Ofblack sandy beach

b¨ ked by bbidding clifls that by midday The North lt is possible tO walk around inuch of the lcngth of the tOp Of the rock ヽ valis that fornn the caldera. Fronl Santa くruz take the approach rOad く lescribed :〕

above and leave the car at the turn_Off■

)r

already cast their shadow across the san(1. 1``ou'1l need your own transporttO get hcrc. From Puntalana b‖ 。w signs fOrthc coastal

hamlet Of Bttamar,and then the tum_OfftO

`Playa lNogales'.Yiou have to park yOur

Around thc lsiand―

The Nonh 231

vehiclc atthe tOp Ofthe clifls and pick yOur

Bariovento

way down a steep din path.

La Ca:ga

Barlovento is a rather dull farming centrc and local transport hub.A few kllometres south isthe Laguna de Bariovento,an ar‐

S01meWhat largerthan Puntallana,La Galga

tiflcial lake created in an extinct v。 lcano.

is in nluch the same vein and could be

The rather surprising r′

leads 4km westtO the Cubo de la Caiga,

rθ ′ια Pα ′ ′ ″α ′″rた α(‐ 922186221)is on the main road“ to、 vards the western exit OftOwn.It is

a srnall protected fOrest.

the only threc‐ star hOtel in the north of the

San Andres&Los Sauces

ptas.Thc Pα ″ ″″′ αZα Prα ル ″ αis a pleasant

()f ali the iSian(1's villagcs,San Andr6s is

Skippedヽ Vithout any great ioss.A side road

￨。

Rο

iSiand and singles/doubles cost 9000/12,000

uneven cobbled streets is a delight,with its

spot for grined dishcs.It's on the main road out by the Laguna dc I〕 arlovento. For the so‐ called lPiscinas de Fajana,

turnbledown hOuses and a couple Of sinall

take the Santa Cruz rOad fOr a cOuple of

churches.´ he Fiesta de San Andr`s is cele‐

kilornetres and thcn the signpOsted lcla turn

brated on 30 Novernber

that leads you l.5krn down to the coast, where Atlantic wavcs keep a protected rock

one of the best preservcd. Walkingi the

I｀

ou can stay in San Alldr6s at one Of a couple ofpcnsiones.Casα グθ〃 ιs′ sE′ D″ αgο (● 922450350)is on the “ main`″Юad 'Yζ

and haS Singles/doubles with bath for 2000/ 3500 ptas. Nearby, P′ ″sf`″ ιαs Lο ″ ブαs (●

922450736),Cane de San Sebasti`n

16, has doubles with bath for 3000 ptas. R′ Srα ″ ′α″′ ″И″α′ ιs,Carretera General, `Sα for its traditiOnal local is rccornrnended dishes. Los Sauces is Oflittle intcrest except fOr

bus connections to Santa Cruz,but if you have a vehicle yOu cOuld take a nearby back

roadお r Los Tilos(the tuln_Off is abOut lkm before lし 。s Sauces if you are cOrning iOm Santa CruZ),a Small SubtrOpiCalお rest

in the Barranco del Agua.UNESCC)de― clarcd it a Biosphere Rcscrve in 1983,and it contains thc biggcst cOncentratiOn of′ α″― ′おわ α(laurClお reSt)On the islmd(お r mOre

abOut lauriSilva, see the iLa (3o:1lera Chapter).ThC CCntrO de Visitantcs is open fl・

Om 9 anl to S pnl, Monday to Friday.

・ 「 here are several walking trails thrOugh the

pool llll of reflcshing ocean watcr. LJp to ninc buses nln bct、

″cen IBarlovcn‐

to (via Los Sauces) and Santa Cruz, although the service drops to four On Sunday. La Zar2a Less than lkm aftcr the turn― off for the

hamlet of La Mata(hcading west)yOu'11 See a visitors' centre for La Zarza bcing built(maybe it Will bC iniShed by thc time you get there)just ofF the south side Of■ e highway.Roughly a 15‐ minute stroll down a trali behind the centre are some of the rnost rernarkable rock carvings len:behind by the 】 BIenahoares, the Guanches of】 a Painla.No onc has been able tO decipherthe strangc circular dcsigns.Hitching or your o、 vII wlleels are about yく )ur only chance Of :´

getting here and Out again. (E)ther rock carvings have been fOund in various IOcatiOns in the no■ h ofthe island,

area.Just behind the(ClentrO de Visitantcs,

including lRoquc Faro,I)on Pedro and Juan Adalid(see alsO Cueva de Bclmaco bclow).

OnC trail lcads upwards(750 stcps On the Way)tO a inC loOkOut― rCCkOn on about a

Santo Domingo de Garafia

halfhour up.A tougher hike(6km one way)

This soporinc village has littlc to draw you

for those used tO steep hill‐ walking leads south‐ wcst tO the COrderos spring.

nity Of POrtuguese Jews, who had been

Up tO SiX buSeS a day connect San Andr6s

and Los Sauces, 、 vhich is On the rnain 13ariovento‐ Santa(E:ruz bus rOute.

in for long.It started life as a busy cornrnu‐

expelled lrom their hOrne cOuntry atthe end

of the 15th century.What littic of the old nucleus of the village rcnlains is gathered

232 Around thc lsiand―

The Centre

around the 16th― century :giesia de la Virgen de la Lu2,WhiCh WaS neVCr in‐

which you should rcckon on six to seven

ished,and the adjacent Plaza de Baltasar Martin. Therc's nowhere to stay here,but a few cas¨ rurales are scaiered about in neigh‐

Caliente(■ Om WherC yOu Can get a buS tO

bouring hanllets. On Plaza dc Baltasar Martin there's a bar with tablcs outside,and the R′srα ′″ α″た aa Sα ″ゎ Dο ″f″ gο .For Ca‐

narian potage and La Palrna cheese, head ″ α″′ a Sα ″И″′ ο″Iο ,Calle de for the R′ s′α″

Dfaz y Suarez 3.(Э ne bus a day runs een bet、 ″

here and IBariovento.

T"arafe p“ ′ arfο ″2ノ 95 ・ ′ο A brief wander around the cobblcd strects

of the centre of this farnling village is a

′ pleasant diversion. 「 he area around it is

chopped up by high ridgcs and deep

ravincs.《 :)n the way south,ifyou have your

hours one way as far as Canarios de Fuen‐

Santa Cruz― sce below). You'1l know you're reaching civilisation again when you

spotthe TV relay st江 ion.

The walk,known locally as the`Ruta de los'Violcancs',should only be atenlpted in good wcathcち which will also alow you to enJoy the ever‐ changing volcanic scenelγ

and the vicws to both the east and wcst coasts of the isiand.

E:Paso Local wolnen ofthis smalltown still weave silk and the rnen lolk are rnostly busy with

fanning in thc surrounding countryside―

bananaS(Of COurSe),pOtatOeS,tObaCCO,the vine and several vcgetables are all grown in the arca.

In the town, the restored 18th― century

Own wheels,you could stop tt the Mirador

Ernlita de:a Virgen de la lConcepci6n

de Time,Where yOuCan CniOy abeeraSyOu

de la[3onan2a(Or`La Bonanzl'for short)

cOntenllplatc the vistas across the isiand and

is a curious looking littlc placc of worship

occan.

with a wooden balcony above the rnain en‐

There's nowhere to stay in Tijarat.A

few buses run south to Los Llanos de

trance.That's about it for curiosity here. With the exception of a few apartnlents,

Aridane and nortll to Puntagorda.

there'S nOWhCre(and nO real reaSOn)tO Stay

THE CENTRE

Centro de Visitantes is P●″sf`″ Ⅳ ″b″ ο夕′ι

The C‐ 812 hittway chmbs lrom south of

(1' 922 48 52 79), whcre good singles/ doubles cost 3500/5000 ptas. About lkrn

Santa Cnlz into the Cumbre Nucva(`new

Summit'),a hCaVily W00ded mOuntain range that has its continuation in thc Cumb“ Vieia(`Old Summit')inher sOuth. ´

in town.(:)ut across the road frorn the lα

cast of town,you can cat wcll at Rι s′ α ― “ ″ α″′ ′ια Cα scαdα for about 2000 ptas.

「 he arst spot ofinterest is the centrO de Visitantes for the Parque Tヽ こ acional de la

Around E:Paso A twk‖ ometres along

(二

heading towards lLos Iし lanos dc Aridane,

′ 〕 aldera de raburientc (See the releVant section a )ve),3.5km cぉ t of EI Paso,and the mm‐ o∬ おr the Mirador dc la Cum‐ brecita inside thc park.

A few klometres belorc the Centro, anOther side road branches ofFsouth,cli:nb― ing up intO the pine― laden Cuinbre ViCia

southわwadsthe Remgio EI Pllar(a moun‐ tain hut for hikers)and a picnic spot.From thcrc a hiking trall leads south along the

the C‐

812 highway

you'1l see signs ieading off the high、 vay to

EI Paralso de las Aves(●

922486160),

where you can observe a wide sclccti()n of exOtiC birdS and nOra.It OpenS nrOnl 10 aFn to 6 pm dally,and entry costs 1000 ptas.

Los Lianos de Aridane α″ο″ノ 89 ・ ′ο ρ″′

the isiand's volcanic territory towards

The Central plaZa Of thiS,the SeCOnd ma10r `ノ town on the isiand, is a charrning littlc isc dull,modcrn urban havcn in an other、 ′

Fuencaliente.This is a dernanding trek for

town. Whcthcr you drive or are catching

cntirc nlountain ridge through the heart of

´

Around the lsiand― rhe Centre 233

buses,you arc bound to pass through hcre, so take a lhalf hour to cxplorc thc tiny old centre.

Gcrman(gi

nganindicationofwhoitsmain patrons ac),opens■ om 10.30 mito 5 pm, Mondayto Saturday.Admissionis 1500ptas.

Plaza de Espaia is donlinated by the

gleaming 、 vhite lglesia de Nuestra Senora de:os RerTledios,builtin the Ca‐ narian colonial style. ・ The sulTounding

streets, panicularly Calle de Fernindez

′

Ilaう

o,still prcscrve nluch of their tradition‐

al characten About 500in outside toッ vn,on tllc road to EI Paso, is the tourist‐ oriented Pueblo

Parque La Pairna.Thisisamixoflbotanical garden and cultural cenlre.More than 6000 species of inostly subtropical plants thrive

here,andyoucansecartisansernployedinthe

Piaces t(o Stay Should you need to hang E′ `「 ソ ″′ about in Los Llanos, P′ ″s′ (●

`″ 922460907),Plaza de Espaia,has

basic singles/dOubles/triples for 2400/3400/

4000 ptts.“ οた′Eaa″

(●

922460104),at

the eastern end oftlle same square,is also a fairly simple affaiち

With roorns going fbr

3000/4400 ptas with own bath. If you ′ タ′ ′ dο require more comfo■ ,″οた′ レ

И′′ dα ″′ (,922462600),Glorieta de Castillo()l a・ es 5,might be for you,with roolms costing about 5000/6000 ptas.

traditional business of enlbrOidery,baSket

weavingandothcrhandicransin`り pical ca_ narian― style'houses.Yloucanwanderonyour owri ortakeaguidcdtour,atthe end ofwhich is a cafeteria that ofFers renreshment and respite.The Kulturpark,as it is known in

P:aces to Eat・「 hc passing tourist trade 、 vasn't slow to descend on thc bougainvil‐ ′)ι ′ α, a pizzeria/ lea― bedecked Zα igο ′ restaurmめ a ri」 t on Plaza de Espaia.For a nlling ineal with grilled lneat specialities,

Los Llanos de A dane

´ ■ 「じ9

惚』:淵酪t齢 ;旧 2"あ

●

"“ "″

4

a

肛

PLACES TO STAV

3 Hold edon 6 Pens6n ElnrЮ

Cuaguas Sehoに

7 Coreos y Td69rafos 8 AyuntattontO

PLACES TO)1已 4 La P67901a

l Estao6n d●

5 1gle● a de Nu`":は

^T

lo Contro do Salud

′ 「 he South

234 Around the lsiand―

you cOuld consider」 Dα ′ ″′ ′ ′ α′ 4″ ブα 9,(〕 alle lη

`′

de Fernindez′ rlaio 1 7.Itllas a nice patio fOr

lunchtime.In Argual,just west of Los Llanos,■ αCIα sο ″α ′И g″ αちLlano dc San I″

restaurants and shops ainled at tourists― the

geat maloriけ ofthem Germans.

If you havc transpOrt Or dOn't mind walking about 20 or 30 ininutcs,you'1l find

Pedro 6, is a beautiful cstablishment in a lou can eat by hOuse dating nrorn 1732. ・′

a couplc of other srnall bcaches lurther south, the sccond of them cornparatively

torchlight in the gardens.

protcctcd from the Atiantic rollcrs and

`′

knoWn asthc CharCo Verde(Green Pond).

Cetting There&Away The Estaci6n de Guaguas is On Calle de Luis F G6mez Wanguemert.Busesto Pucno de Naos(165 ptas)and Tazacorte(125 ptas)run fre― quently,aS dO those to Santa Cruz(570 ptaS).BuSeS nOrth tO SantO I)。 lrlingO de

Garana(825,as)ac less regul狙

TazacOne ・ ρ91′ α″ο″6582 "′

Piaces to Stay&Eat The waterう rOnt Of Puctto dc Naos is lined with 10w_level apartment blocks.Among the cheaper oncs iS И α″θ″′ οs Pθ d“οMα ″′ ル (● 9224080 ′α′′ 46). Doublcs/triples cost 3500/4500 ptas. More comお 山ablc is И′α″rα ″′′わSP′αツα D′ タカル (● 922480174),where dOubles

stan at 7000 ptas. You can eat and drink in lany ofthe ter―

From Los Llanos de Aridane,the C-812

raZaS along the WaterfrOnt(unleSS they'Ve

highway forks sOuth_west to、 vards the banana town of TazacOrtc,the spot where the εο″9″ Fsrα dο ″′s iaunched thcir cam_

been Washed away by a winter Atlantic Sca′ α,

paign.´ 「 he Only sight is thc ig:esia de lSan

wihich does a fair versiOn Of ltalian cuisine.

storm!).Lcss vuinerable is RFsわ ″ α″た んα

Calle dc Jos` Guzinin P6rez 9,

Miguel Arcangei,and inost peoplc whO

A good spot for Canarian,Castilian and

cornc hcre tend to procced a fe、 v ki10rnetres ftlnher n。 ■h_west tO PuertO de Tazac。 ■e,

Basque cOOking is R`s′ α″′α″′ ο 2:)ο ″

which apan iOm bananas,01∬ lers a modest

0″ グοた,Edincio La Palma Bcach.

beach and threc Or fOur waterfl・ ont restau―

Ge

rants.Ofthe latter,Rω rα ″″ α″た ια G″ 0′ α

1`rly for Los Llanos,although On Sunday

ng There&Away Buses leave regu‐

is rcliable and spccialises in scafood. and holidays the sen/ice is grcatly reduced. ′ ・ 「 hcrc arc no hotcis in Ilazacorte, but the“ ae seved scts ofapartments.И ρα″ ′ α‐ THE SOuTH ″ わs lsa(● 922480052),Lomo Blanco, Mazo `′ has doubles lor 3700 ptas or 4700 ptas with り ο ″′ αr,ο ″5θ 69 ・」

balcony.

Apa■ ■om the cateries on the beach,

l′

A pcace負 11 li■ lc spot,yOu'd barely know it 、 vas there as you trundle by On the bus lrom

Santa Cruz,which lies 13km away.The

therc's not a 10t Of choice in the fOOd dc― partment.3ar βaga力 αた,Calle del PrOgreso 17,docsI)00r pizza llTlitations and a limited

town is kno、 vn for the production of hand‐

rnenu of standard dishes. Mains start at

various other handicran‐ s. If you are inter_

about 800 ptas.

eSted in the latter, head for thc Escucla

Puerto de Naos

hl1 0ff the highWa"and opens iom 9.30

A side road south彙 om Ta:″ icorte iacks the COaSt fiOm on high for about 5kin before

am to 4.30 pm,Monday to Friday.・

nladc ′″″OS, Havana‐ style cigars, and

lnsular de Anesanfa.It is signpOsted down‐ 1`ou can sce products being nlade and buy tllern.

dropping down to the black‐ sand, pal:n‐

A b10ck lu“ her downhill, the 16th‐

shadcd bcach ofPuerto de Naos.This is as closc as the west coast cOmes tO a rcsort. There is no ral town here,just a growing

ccntury igiesia de San Blas 100ks Out Ovcr

population Of apartinents and a handftl1 0f

thc Atlantic towards Tlenerife. Inside, the retab10 0n the high altar is baroque in sり le, as are many ofthe remaining art、 vOrks.

く )orpus Christi is celebrated hcrc in June こ

′ I｀

he South 235

can sce just as much ofthc cave■om thc

with particular gaiety.Arches made of wood and brightly decorated are raiscd in

road.

A few buses■ om Santa Cruz head down this、 vay

thc streets for the processiOns.

via Hoyo de Mazo.The ncarest bus

stop is about 400ril south of thc cave,just

Piaces to Stay&Eat Should you wantto

bcfore the Bar Chaplin.

stay,the clloice is down tO twO sets Ofapa11‐

ments run by the sanle people and fOr、 vhich

the same price-4200 ptas for t、 vo― is Charged・ И′α″ rα ″ι ″ゎsИ 折2-И クh are at Callc dc Maxirniliano Pёrcz I)faz 9,while И′α″ ′ α″′″わsS″ Cα sα actt No 79.Forin‐ fonnation call'922440404.Rι sra″ ′α″′ θ Zの 購 鉛 ,Carretera Gcnera1 42(the main highway),o詭 rs chcap,simple meals.For a SWiSS tOuCh,try R“ ″″″α″た E′ E′ c力 ″た

Los(Canarios de Fuencaliente α″ο″ノ7Jノ ・ ′ο P″ ′

The Hoyo dc M″ o Юad evettually rcjoins the(E〕

・ ‐ 832 south to Fuencaliente. rhc hot

springs iom which thc area got its name have long since been buried by the anger of the volcanoes that as recently as 1971、 vere still erupting.

,

Cane dc Maximiliano P6rez Dfaz 4.

Things to See&Do The atraction here is the volcanoes. From the inain se■ lemcnt,

Ce

ng There&Away The Linea 8 busto

(E)anarios dc Fuencaliente,signs icad you to

A little futther south iom Mazo,and cioser

the irst of them― iVioican San Antonio. You can follo、 v a path right around the yawning chaslll of this great black conc, 、 vhich last blew in 1949.Fronl here you can Walk SOuth (SignpOSted)。 r driVe tO the

to the coast,is an ancicnt cave Once inhab―

scenc of the (E)anary lsiands' rnost recent

itcd by 13enahoare tribespeople

、 vh。 le食 ′ bchind carvings in the cavc walls. 「 hc Cueva de Belinaco was the irst such site

eruption, ヽ ′ oican

discovered:and recorded on the islalld,back in 1752_.There`v.e four scts of engravings,

up to the shattercd rirn ofthe volcano,■

about、vhose ineaning expe■

conc, but back to thc higher iViolcin San

Fuencalicnte calls in here(six a day each

Way On WeekdayS;tWO On Sunday). Cueva de Beliriaco

ls renlain per‐

´

TeneguFa. 「 here is

nothing to suggest it won't ever rel)eat its

perfornlance,but for now you can scranlblc

om

where you havc vicws nOt only into its

plexed. Lcgend has it that the cave 、 vas

Antonio and out over the occan to the

aCtually hOmC tO the 10Cal tribal Chiet but

isiands of llenerife, La

there is llo hard evidcnce lor this.

Hierro. If you havc whccls and fccl llkc cooling

The cave is not in any way signposted

く ]oinera and El

■oln thc C‐ 832 highway.The best bet is to

ofF,Piaya de Echeventive,down nearthe

take the nrst left aiRIer the Mazo exit heading south fl・onl Santa(C,ruz and wind

lighthouse at the southern tip of the isiand, is rarely busy.A kiosk sells cool drinks.

down towards Hoyo dc Mazo.From here

Back in Canarios de Fuencaliente, you

head south through SI田 l Sim6n― it's another

might wantto pop into the Ta‖ er de A"e‐ sania, 、 vhcre you can scc traditional

lkm. 11石

ou'1l see the cavc on your right in a

bcnd in thc road.Lcfl offthe road is an in‐ fornlation ofnce and a casa rural, tlle′ s′α Bο ″」 ′ α.

embroidery bcing donc― and buy some.It is tt Carrctcra General No 84.

The cave and a inodest tnuscum were supposed to be open at the time Of

stay here,P′

writing, but a check proved everything to

1464),Carretera Genera1 72,has basic

be shut.ヽ Viell,you could wanderin uninvit‐ ed to get a li■ le closer to thc cave,but not

close enough to see the rock carvings―

you

Piaces to lStay&IEat Should you want to ,な ′ ι″Zο s

И ο′ οα″o(●

92244

′ singles/doubles for 2000/2500 ptas. rhe sante people have an apa■ ■lent for up to th“ e people,with kitchen,br 3500 ptas.

一場■■ ５ 聟塁＞ ●

Around the lsiand―

236 た ound the lsiand― ・ The South

月iο た′Ca″ ″α′(●

922444018),at No 19,

has a range of diIIbrent roorns and apart‐

nlents liorn 2000 ptas to 5000 ptas.´ 「 hey also have rooms■ No 84(caned P′ ′ なあ″ I〃 ′ι ″た0.

Rω ″″″ α″た z′α″。ν″,cane de los ca_

Fuencaiiente to Los Lianos de Aridane The hi♪ Way up■ e WeSt COaSt OfthC iSImd rides highあ ove the secmingly limitless ex¨

panses of the Atlantic Ocean.The irst se■ lelmentis

El(Charco,lwhere you can call

in at a iniradorthat is equipped with a sinall

narios s/n, is thc best place in tovvn, but mains start at 1200 ptas.Its own local wines

ba.

are also fbr sale.You'11■ nd a couple of mOre mOdeSt parrillaS(grill plaCeS)On the maln road in town.

the village ofJedey,、vhere some ofthe in‐

Another 10km nonh takes you thЮ

u帥

habitallts still live in old stone houses.A little nllther nordl is a stili snlaller hanllet,

San Nicolis.Just before you enter it there

Cetting There&`A,w,ay six b“ es a day

is a great place to eat,the sprawling BOdθ

head nOrdi tO Santa CruZ(神 0 0n Sunday),

lgiο

卸d■ ve b Los Llmos(two on Sunday).

″7レ″ り α″σα(口

cavc.

'922494155),located in a

―

isia de la GO『 71era

H:GHL!GHTS

The CanariOS Cali thiS theお ′ α″ 2dο ″dα (the rOund iSiand)and the bulk OftOuriStS tO the isiands givc it li■ lc inore than a day trip ■om Tenerifc.In one sense this is a shame, as solme inore inquisitive travellers who hang arOund 10nger have fOund.′rhe inOun_ tainOus cOuntiyside and the ancient laurel forest ofthc Parquc Nacional de Garajonay walTant rnore peacen.l hiking and contem_

ArLA NTIC OCEAN

Ｔ

、

´ ／ に／  ， ′ 輌 ・  ヽ

Ｔ ●

L謳●Ю嘔 /ノ

G■ ■

Om"L

()n the othcr hand,thc isiand woul(l be hard presscd to deal with too nlany nlore tourists― and some locals tel th■ they

have already been overrun. Although the

Exp!。

beaches ofVialle dc(1:ran Rcy and Playa de ・ Santiagoそ ■ e increasingly popular,they are srnall and,as bcaches go, not really any‐ thing terribly malvellous― this fact will h。 :)enully

put a natural brake on thc go

ng the green terraced banana

p!antations behind the beaches of Va‖ e

de Gran Rey Hiking through the misty fOrest of the

Parque Naciona!de Gattonay

h

Tiaking a boat tmp_to the、 ″eird rock for‐

rnations of Los(3)rganos, and seeing dolphins on the way Trekking from the hea■ of the Parque

oftourism on La Golmera.Ifit doesn't,this

relatively wild and sparsely populated isiand could end up losing nluch of its chan■

′   ．“ ・ ‘ ｒ ′ ｆ  Ａ ・ ， ノ ′

plation than they get.

Nacional de〈 3aralonay o「 HerFnigua tO

EI Cedro and the La Boca del Chorro

.

A kind ofrocky fo■ ress whose precipi‐

wateralls, staying in a casa rυ rar en route

tous cliIも crash headlong into the occan,:La

Gornera is thc most``iornlant'ofthe isiands. There haS bCen nO V01CaniC aCtiViけ here br vhich accounts for the rnilllons of years, 、

viltual absencc ofcones,calderas and other

geological signs. 13ut cvidence of the

arduous undell:aking.Indeed,until the con‐

struction of inodenl roads,thc only access

isiand's violent pastis there― the odd basalt rockl■ )1■ nations that pile upward in various

spots across La Gomcra a・ e the most visibic rcmains oflava nlls oncc hiddcn inside n。 、 v

points iniand i[onl the coast were the deep らα″α″εοS(rⅣ ineS)that radiate like SpOkeS

crodcd volcanic issures. Agriculture st‖ l plays an imメ)r鯰 nt part

iom the peよ of G額 萄onay(1478m)and cut their way dOwn to the small bcaches and covcs that iong scrved as the only

in the island's economy-9 1milllon kg of

`gatcs'to the island.

Spaniards

bananas were produced in 1997!

and

descendants

of the

《uanches alike cked out a living falΠ ning [〕

Hisbry

thc tcrraccs that still sprcad ollt over nluch

La Goinera's history has been iargely one of is。 latiOn

ofthe island.lBIut tlle going has always been tou鰤 ,帥 d Gomeros htte a long tradition of enligration;tlle population pcaked at 29,000

and is as tOugh as its terrain is difL

Acult.Although the isiand is cornparatively rich in spring watet agriculturc has always bccn a challcnge.「 Fhc soil is pooち and thc

in 1940.Althoutt many ofthosc who havc lcn in recent ycars have rilerely opted for

nearby Tenerife,only 28kin aw.ay,m。 並 left

sinuous,hilly cOuntty once madc travel an

237

238 1sia de la Golmcra― Acitivities

fOr venezuela and uruguay.This is renect_ ed in a variety of ways,お r example,a10t of the rnusic Played on 10cal radio will transport you to L■ in America. Vestiges ofthe whistling ianguage Ofthe

Activities (:)ne ofthe pleasures of the island is taking

tiine out to walk it. Material suggesting hiking Ю utCSあ Ound,狙 d iS beSt SOu』 t at the([〕 entro de Visitantes del Parquc Na― cional de Caralonay,near Agulo. IBIcachcs,accessible or otherη ′ ise,tcnd to

Gomeros(see Languagc in the Facts about the ISlandS Chapter),are Still kept aliVe

be of me small,black,pebbly valety.The SOuthen10neSaremOFeprOteCtedandSuitable

today,almost exclusively for the delight of

お

iglers.A couple of■ e more touristy

“ .urants reslぬ

will put on lunch tiine perfOr‐

mmces,md thosc on a one― day guided tour

彙om■ neritcanjustaboutbmkOn hⅣ ing ァ

a display included in thcir itincra電

ATLANTIC OCEAN

.

…

lorswinuning.OnewaytohangOutOnabeach ofyourownisわ hi“ aboataldindonc― most ofbeachesaredifnculttoreachbecausethere are no walkingtrackslcadingtothenl.

協名

l

■

O

※ ①ト 翻臨…

Isla de la Contera

L円 腱 M● Ⅲ臓

PA■。u●

“ CARA′ ONAΥ

′ ／ ′

0)｀ 、´

San Sebastiin de la Gomera一

Accornrnodation With only 22 hoteis and′

History 239

there is not.an awnュ 11。 t to keep you here, S′ 0″

as across

although a stroll around the centre is pleas‐

`″ the island,the bulk ofthe accOrnrnodation is

ant enough if you have an eye for thc

in privatc apart■ lents and homes,the nlost

renlaining traditional hOuscs squished in

tempting of the■ l bcing the σαsα s″ ″′ α′ `s Sprinkled a11 0vcr thc countrysidc.Many of

bet、 vccn

characterless cOncrctc additions of

this centliry.

these are 01d farmhOuses long abandoned

by GomeЮ 6migr6s,now remttished and resurrected fbr a role. 1｀ he casiest way to

rent onc of thern is to call ahead tO thc CCntral reservations nulllber-1● 01.

9221441

I)uring pcak periods it can get a lillle squeczy,so、 vhen you an・ ive gO tO the tOur‐ ist Office in san sebastian and arin.yourself with all the accOm:■ Odation lists and phone

・ hat way yOu can call nunlbers you can. 「 出 ed. Camping is prOhibited on the isiand.That Said,tllere is one camping ground nea:r El

Hisbry

・ 「 his

se■ leinenttnust have been the scene of

nluch excitenlent back on 6 Septenlber 1492.Atter ioading up with 100d prOvi‐

sions, timber and watct ChristOphcr Coluinbus lcd his three small caravels Out Ofthe bay of san sebastian and cnlbarked on wh“ some must havc viewed as a highly risky venture― tO sall beyOnd the end ofthe known iworid and head,west、 ″ards for the lndies.

・

I｀

he toν vn

had barely been fOunded、 vhen

(1)cdro― but to usc it you need pcrnlisslon

Columbus sailed in.IFive years earlier,there had bcen a terriblc massacrc in the wake Of

frOni the island's environment onEce (Oncina lnsular de lMedio Ambiente).

the falled uprising against Hernan Peraza, the island's govern。 ■When it was al1 0ver,

Enquire at the tounst Ofncc.

What had been the Villa de laS PalrnaS(On a

Getting There&Away

、 vas rechristened San Sebasti`n and began

・ 「 here is no airpo■ on La Golmera,but one is bcing bullt in the sOuth Of the island.

Access is by trry■ om Los Cristianos (■ nCriお ),Santa Cruz de la Palma and El Hie■o.Feries and hydrofoils call at San Sebastian, and the hydrofoils nronl lLos Cristianos also go to Valle dc Gran Rey. There is talk Of extending the service to Playa de Santiago.

spot known to the Guanches as Hipalin) to grow.

The arival of Coluinbus,and latcr thc boom in trans‐ Atiantic trade,helped bOOst ■eお rtuncs of■ e city,sitd On a good shel‐ tered harbOuL T｀こ eVeitheleSS,itS pOpulatiOn

only passed the 1000 inark atthe beginning ´ of the 19th century. 「 he goOd tiines also

brought dangers, and as with the Other

Cetting Around

islands,San Sebasti“ was rcgularly subject ed to pirate atack fiom thc English,Frcnch and iPortuguese.In 1739,thc lEnglish ineet

Four daily buses serve ali tlle l■ ain destina‐

actually landcd an invasion fOrcc hOping to

tions on the isiand.

capture the isiand,however the assault was repulsed.

san lsebastian de la

Gomera

In the 18th century the town 、 vas the channcl for silk and ruin cxports to Tlener_ iた ,,om run‐ Off

whcre it in retunt receivcd the of products importcd iom L■ in

Amcrica and Europc. The fate Of the α′ ″6ノ 9ノ ・ ′ο P′ ′ jο

The capital and inain pott a・ e the ObligatOry

town was intimately linked with that Of the rest Of the isiand. lts fortunes rosc

with the cochineal boom in thc 19th

pOint of entry to the island.Aside florn a

century and then c01lapsed with that in‐

small assOmment Of minOr mOnumcnts,

dustry.

240 San Sebasti`n de la Golmera―

entation

(D

PLACES TO EAT

PLACeS TO STAV

l Pons16n Cobmbha 8 Clun」 un"laⅢ

d Ma"u“ 10R● 」 au[買 f_ de° ns口 」

7● onsiOn Co16n ll PonsiOn Goinora 19 Pons10n El Palar

31 Pa腱

￨:己 汗ど sca

"d“

“

子Na∞

L“Gomem

13 RomH型 ■ic.min(s

H“ I Con“

1:諄 器讐0131:

Z2RestauranO Cubino

“

“

く“出冒 ００ くコ ロ０ くコ∽︼

San Se

dela G

´ い

San Seba工 14n T06gra,os 6 Ca“ d● ∽ 9 10 0Stt de饉 VI● 01 doほ “ Asun`潔

h

12 Co“ "ob SaStation ud 15 Cop("Petrd 16 Hospl回

17 Guadia CMl

●● '

LH"a

001a 24P02● “ "Ca祠 “ Aguada

″１４

ト

3Emm“ 4∞ r,008ソ

a

■ 0"

Tore“l Conde 28 VI■ os insuほ ,こ Ci“ r Fbnta∝ r ″

20 Tax,Shnd ∞

AWnta剛 On0

32 Bus Temind

ATLANTIC OCEAN

20 Cab‖ do insuiar

O

en● tion

You arnve by sca atthe shipping tenninal at

ous backdrop and the llne black‐ sand beach,walk up to thc Mirador de la Hila.

thc castent end oftown.From therc you can get buses to thc rest ofthe isiand. ・I'hc rllain road, Calle dcl Medio, heads

off norm_west iom the port and the sman black‐ sand beach,and along it yOu'1l find

the tourist ofHce and other usenll ofices,as

infO日natiOn

￢。urist orice The o■ cina de Turism。 (● 922 1401 47), is housed on([〕 allc dcl Medio.Itis open lき om 9 anlto l.30 pnl and 3.30 to 6.30 pin Monday to Saturday;■ Om

well as the main sights.The bulk of the town's hoteis and pensiones are on this

10 am to l pm Sunday.

strect and the(1)alle dc Ruiz dc Padr6n,

Money Thcrc's are banks along Callc del

which runs parallcl. For nice vicws ofthe town,its nlountain―

Medio and([〕alle de Ru`z de IPadr6n,inost with exchange services and AII'Ms.

San Sebastian de la(3ornera― ・ Things to Sce&E)o 241

POst a cOnlmunicatiOns The main post Ofncc(corcos y Te16graぉ s)is on canc del Medio.1ピ iou'1l find public phones all ovcr ´

ambulmce,caH■ e Cmz Roja(Red CЮ on.口 '922870000.

ss)

the town ccntre. 「 he pOstcOde for San

Things to See&Do

Sebastian de la Gomera is 38800.

The smali town cenie is dOtted with a few charnling old mansiOns,but is fairly shott

Medicai Sen′ ices The liospital delヽ Iucstra

on notewo重 hy monumcnts. Setin aparkjust b∝ k,om the bc∝ h,■ c

Seiora dc Guadclupe(■

922140200)is

about a 15‐ ntinutc walk'west of thc topvn

Thc town's clinic,or CenttO de Salud

('922870286),is at Calle de Ruセ de Padr6n 32.・The town's fOur pharnlacies take tlllms in opening for 24 hours.

Emergency The(3uardia Civil balracks 922870255)is out of e town ccntre

(●

on the hi』 wり O Valle de Grm Rey.For an

Mlurder a Revenge in La Comlora LOVe afhirS

late gothic Tore dei Conde is whet it all z de BObadilla,the wi■ Ofthe ill_fated I‐ Iernan Peraza, had to barricade herself in this citadel in 1488 until help

began.Beat

centre.

α in

alTived.The■ )it had been raised in 1447, theinrst building ofany note to go up on the sitc ofthe nュ ture san scbastian.It is about the only one to havc becn rnOre Or less prc‐ servcd in its original statc.It Only Opens 10r

exhibitions.

.‐

be a lS● buSineSS.When,in 1488,Heman P●

腱 za,the

son ofthe of

govemorof La Gomeral DiOgO dO Herera,began O see Ybana,a young:oca:tЮ auり ,his

Wib Beat"Z de BObadi:la WaS prObabけ nonK〕 too impresl開 d.Even iess so was Yba‖ a's (1)omero su臓 ol lHautacuperche,whO a:so saw in this a unique Opportunity,and hatched

th other"besmen b seize Peraza and compel him b∞ nねss his extrama ね adiVtteS.Hauね CuperChe hoped not on:y to win badく Yba‖ a,but aiso to extract from a plan

:

Peraza a pЮ mise of fairertreatinent。 「 the isianders by the co:onia:autho蔵 ies,Who hadl been particu:ary harsh wnh the ioca:pOpu!ace. The ChanCe tO enaCtthe pian WaS nOt:Ong in Coming.■ pped oithat Peに and Yba‖ a WeЮ■。 meet CiandeSInely,Hau● Cuperche lay in wal.Things dに n't qu掟 o “ go a(澪ording to pian and Haulね cuperche endBd up fab‖ y speanng Peraza.The艇 )may wO!:have been a tOuCh ofpoetciuStiCe in Peraza's death,since he had stoOd accused Oflmlurde"ng Juan Re16n,the unioved cЮ mmander oFthe 1478 assau:ton Cran Cana a,in 1481. VIue"e Peraza and Ybal:a rea‖ y:overs?Another version of the story is that Pera2a had iVe CuanChe WOmen Seized“ orthe benell of his c輌 oers in a Ч

Vba:la,reSiSted and WaS pub:iCly miSt"eated by Pera2a.WhiCheVer"ld Way:tlWent,Pera2alS Pany.One ofthem, death unieashed a b:ood bath. Having kii!ed the190Vernol.the is:anders laid siege to BeatFiZ de BObad::'a and thelS,Tla::SpaniSh COntngent hO:ed upin Ⅵ !la de!aS Pa::TlaS, the precursorto rぃ odern san sebastian. Pedい o.deヽ era in cran cana a gctu"nd ofthe up"sing and sOon ar ved to put a stop b it.HiS"thieSSness ttas bloodturd:ing.Ac(Ю rdingわ one a(Ю ount,de Vb旧 odecdthe eXeCu饉 On Ofa::ma:eS abOve the age of15.in an o:官 y of wanton vio!ence,isianders were hanged,impa:ed,decapitated or drowned.Some had the“ ・hands and fec湾 :opped o「 be‐

b● hand,iust br good measu膊 .The wOmen weE parcemed Out b the m

iamen,and

・ br Saie aS SbVeS・ b COmplet the iOb,de Vera 「 Sirni:a‖ y Orde"ed the eXecution of sorne 300 Gorrieros living on Gran Cana a.

many Of he Childttn Weに

bundled。

242 San Sebastian de la Gonncra―

Spccial lBvents

Also wo■ h a visit is the igiesia de la Virgen de la Asunci6n.The centrai nave of the original hermitage was begun in 1450, but additions were rnade to the

near the post ofnce,is said tO have been the irst chapei built on the island.

church,allin go■ ic style,until well into the

The black sandy beach isn't bad.If you want sornething wilder and rnore secluded, a walking track heads south‐ west to the

1 8th century.

hamlet of Ei Cabrito lrom the TF‐

The Casa de Coi6n,Callc dcl Medio 56,is where Coluinbus supposcdly put up

713

high、 vay

near the hospital.Ask around for it.The walk willtakc you about hvo hours,

before heading off fbr the iNew World in 1492.Inside you'11■ nd a few anefactsll・ oln Peru, rnodeis of Columbus' caraveis, and

but the beach is quite pretty,with a huddle

anOther Of131esia dc la Virgen de la Asun‐ ci6n th■ is madc ofsuga!It opens,om 10

ac。 1。 urinll backdrOp.Bring yOur Own fOOd

Of houses sct anlong palm trces and the nlOuntainous terrain behind them serving as

and waten

am t0 1 pm and 4 to 6 pin Monday to Friday.Admission is tec.On hesu,ect of C;olumbus,nip out the back of the tourist

ofnCe tO haVe a 100k at thC P020 de ia

Aguada.They say that water drawn iom this well was used to`baptise Amenca'.

Specia:Events

・ he Fiesta de San Sebastiin, the town's patron saint, is celebrated on 20 January, and(3olumbus'■ rst voyage is cornrnemo‐ rated on 6 September. I｀

The tiny Ermita de San Sebastian,

Every ivc ycars on 5 0ctober(the next in 1998)the ci,celebrttesthc Balada de la

Virgen de Caudclupe with a seaborne r。

ι′″ to Puntalana,whcrc nshcrs takc

the“statue ofthe Virgin Mary ttom the her‐ mitage to esco■ it south to the capital in a notilla.

Places to lStay―

budget

At(こ )alle del Medio 23,thc■ rst placc you'11 E′ P″ α ″(● 92287 P′ ″s′ 0207).It's a charming`″old Canarian housc

comc acЮ ssis in a noisy,■

in― walied

fashion and roorns go

for 2500 ptas for onc ortwo― the hot water is only forthe quick.′ hey have an outdoor rCStaurant in the baCk.Quieter and With a ″α nicer internal garden is P′ ″s,6″ Gο ″θ (● 922870417)at No 33,which hぉ Ю oms I・

fOr 3000 ptas.

︱ヽ

出 口一

、、  ︱ ヽ ■ ﹁

︱ ． 

﹂﹂︱

︱︱

︲ ｖヽ ハ ︲

If theSe are bOth full(WhiCh happenS

OiCn enOugh), try the mOre mOdern Pθ ″ sあ ″Cο あ″bレα(● 922871257),Cane de RuFz de lPadr6n 83,which has singles/ doubles for 2500/4000 ptasヽ ぃitll l)ath.It is charnlless but clean and quict.()thcr、 ′ ise, ″ Pι ぉ ′ δ″R“ ′ d′ κ ″ 〃aψ ι ′ ″ ∫(● 92287

1305)試 No 42 has rooms br 1800/3500

ptas without bath,or rnarginally more with. The building of:glesia de laヽ 1lrgen de la

Asunci6n cornmenced in 1450

P′ ″ s′ σοあ″ (● 922870235),Calle del Medio `″59,is not a bad deal and ofモ lers comfoltable singlcs/doubles for 2000/3500

San SebaSti`n dCla(:〕 Orncra― :Placcs to Staン ′243

ptaS WithOut OWn bath,or 4200/5500 ptas with.

YOu may be mct by touts with apanmcnts 「 hey can be a good deal,staning at 4000 ptas a thrOw fortwO.C)theぃ vise,keep an eyc out for signs around tOwn_there's to rent.´

no sho■ age Ofthem.

For a slightly classier atrnosphere and the Option of al fiesco dining,tryノ ?ι srα ″″ α″′ ′

″ ル α″ S d′ 0″ ′ srα″ 0,Cane del Medio ?“ ι `′ 24. MainS “ here Cost up to 1500 ptas, and there is music On Saturday evenings. san sebastian seerns to have rnore than its fair share Of pizzerias.Ifyou are sick of thc local fare and want an approxinlation of

Piaces to stay_:niddle Of thc handfu1 0f hotels,the〃 οた′′〃α Gο ″θ ″ α(● 922870020),Calle de Rufz de Padr6n 68,is uniinaginative but cOmfOn_ able enOugh,With Singles/doubles for 4200/ 5500 ptas. Much the sa:1lc is thc 〃ο′ θ′ Gα ″ ″ο″αッ(● 922870550)at No 17.Hec yOu'1l be paying 4500/5600 ptas fOr roorns with an ensuite bathroorn.

ltalian ibod,try R′ s′α″ ″ α″″ E′ Pα ″。,cane de Ruiz delPadr6n 86. For a splurge, head up tO thc IParador, ヽ Vhere a classy rrleal will cOst yOu around

3500 ptas.

Ente"ainment One does nottunl up in La(]omera for the rOCking nlま tlit.SOme Of the resmurants haVe barS that Stay open until about 2 arn.

Places to lStay― tOp end The Pα ′ αdο ′Ⅳ ε」 ο″α′Cο ″daグ′′ αGο ″で″ α lα

(●

・ ′ι αFf″ Eα ″at 「 hc only disco is DIscο ′ Calle Trasera 7.

922 87 11 00; fax 922 87 11 16)is a

ng There&Away

graceful fOur‐ star Canarian‐ style nlansion.

Ge

The viewstO Tenerife iOm the back garden are breathtaking.Single/double rOOms cOst 14,000/17,500 ptas.1)On't evcn think about walking up here― gct a cab.

Bus′ rhree bus lines ieave san sebastian t。

cover the inain destinations across the isiancl. In each case there arc four dcpar‐

tureS a(day,all at ll arn,2,5.30 and 9.30

pm.LfnCa l goesto Valle dc Gran Rcy and P:aces to Eat

・ he bulk Ofthe tOwn's rcstaurants are clus‐ I｀

tered arOund the port cnd of(Calle del MediO and Calle de Ru〔 z dc Padr6n.Zα Clα Sα ラ 41ヮ α ,Calle de la Repiblica de Chile 5,is a sirnple bar where you can get cheap tapas and arepas.Anothcr nO‐ ‖s jdnt is

R“ ″″″ α″′ ιcン タ″。,cane Trascra(。 r “

calle

is the longest Ofthe three routes,taking One

hour and 40 minutes(675 ptas).It fo‖ ows ′ the rF‐ 713 highway, with a detour that takeS it just south of the Garalonay peak. Linea 2 follows the sanle rOad as far as Las Plaredcs and thcn circles south tO Playa de

Santiago via Alaler6(650 ptas).Linea 3 takcs thc・

「

F‐ 71l

to VallehermOsO via Her‐

de la Virgen de Guadelupe)2,where most

migua and Agulo(550 ptas). Thc aqua

mains cOst less than 900 ptas. A good spot is the C'′ ″b.′ レ ″ο″fα ,Callc

CO10ured buses of the Servicio Rcgular

rnodcst prices in the garden. RθS′α″ ″ α″′ θZα 7bscα ,Callc de Rufz dc

TaXi lf mOnCy iS n0 0● eCt,yOu Can get a

Padr6n 34,Is sct in a Canarian house with whitewashcd wans.Thc cone,。 en salmorc_ j。 (marinatCd rabbit)iS niCCly Washed down With a Slightly Sヽ Veet 10Cal house red.Next door at No 36,R′ stα ″″ α″′ ′イCa″ ′ ″οs also

Thc trip to Vane de Gran Rey will cost up to 6000 ptas,depending on the driven

Gomero leavc ttOm the trry terminal.

del Medio 51,、 vhere yOu can cat、 vel1 lor

up goOdお Od(abOut 1000 ptaSお r mainS)in intimae surrOundings_the up_

ttti(●

922870524)wherever yOu want.

Car&Motorcycleヽ Vith your Own wheeis you can take the sarne roads to leave the

SeⅣ eS

capital.´

stairs dining arca is particularly agreeablc,

onEces here.cプ ια″has a desk at thc ofice OfViales insular(● 922871450),Calle de Rufz dc Padr6n 9.Sonle conlpanies、 vill let

and they dO a nicc vcrsion ofgazpachO.

I・

here is no sho■ age of car rental

244 San Sebastian dc la Gornera

When Co:umbus Dropped By When Christopher Co!umbus drop‐ p( anchorin the sma‖ haわ our of

ご〉

(こ

〕

San Sebastian de :a Gomera in August 1492, he must have been l‖ ed

u

th mixed emotions.The tiny

Canary is:andl″ as his!ast stop in the nl″odd;ater kno、 ″

so many years of

rri deterFnina10n and bitter diSap‐ pOintrYlent, thiS ヽ A,aS hiS ChanCe tO g

route to the C)rient―

00

and that the

worid was round!

A Genoese sa‖ or of modest meanS,CISt。 lbrO COiomb。

(aS he iS

n in hiS natiVe:ta:y)WaS born in 1451.Heヽ ″enttO Sea ea‖ y and was

knOヽ

1′

something of a d"eamer Fascinated by Mar`x)Po!o's traveis in the Orent, he decided eany thatit must be pos‐ sib:e tO gd theに by heading inわ the sunset.Nice idea,but the rulers of Cenoa,a ng powel did not see such a dOdgy enterprise as woithy ofin‐ cons:derab:e seafa

vestment.The yOung c。 :umbus was undeterα 」and moved to Portugalin 1478, wherel he,conlnued his career at sea and searched`or backers lbr his idea.At every d00r he knockedせ le reaction、 ″as always the sanle,unti:lnally the lCathOiiC FnOnト

archs of Spain,Fernando and:sabel,9ave their patrOnage in 1492. On 3 August,aiong wih thiee Sma::(araVe:S― the Sanね MarFa,the Pi″ fa and the N′ ″ a_cO:umbus weighed anchorin Palos de la Frontera(Andalucia). S6ba:CO16n(as the Spaniads:ike to ca::him) A sing:ed‐ minded enough chap,C ng his stay on La(3omera he took dOeS nCt SeeFn tO haVe been abOVe diStraCtiOn.IDu quに e a shine to Beatriz de Bobadi‖ a,the widow ofthe un:almented Hernan Peraza. Si‖ ,he ina:け set sal:on 6 September co:umbus'i !e lol‖ a onけ sighted:and on 12 0dober,,uSt aS hiS rest:ess men 、 ″ere reaching the end oftheir patience、 ″ith the:rcommander's whims.They discov‐ ered several Ca bbean isiands on this tnp,inc:uding HaLi and Cuba,and returned to Spain in March ofthe`o‖ owing year. on his m′ 。subsequent voyages ofdis∞ very Co:umbus chose again to:andin San Sebastian,in Odtober 1493 and May 1498.On this iater trip he found that Beatnz

was marned and some historians sunrlise thatitis no Coincidence that he d:dn't pass this、 ray

again on his lna:voyage in 1502. Co!urnbus lounded Santo Domingo on Hispanio:a and chaned the coasヽ

)of Hon‐

duraS and｀ 1lene2ue:a:aS an adminiSti■ lt01 hOVreVet he ran intOl drnCu!tieS and WaS

shipped back to Spain,clapped in irons,in 1500.His nameヽ ″as iater c!ea“ xl,allow‐ ing hirn to return to the new co:onies.

:n15“ he died a bりOtten and embtteCd man inヽ ぬ‖adond,Spain.b the!ast he rem」 ned con nced he had`ound a new:Ю ute to the Olent,rather than discЮ vering an entire!y unknown continent―

Amenca.

Around thc lsiand_Parque Nacional de(〕 ara,onay 245 yOu hirc in San Sebastiin and drop off in Vane de Gran Rey(or vice versa). ・ raSinediterrinea and Lineas Fred

Sea

I｀

01sen between them have up to six car tries a day to LOS CriStianos(Tenerit).A nOrma1 0ne‐ Way farc costs 1920 ptas, al― though with Frcd 01scn therc is a miniね rc of 1560 ptas if yOu takc the lo.45 am or 2.15 pm bOatS(the Same is true ofthe 12.30

and 4 pin bOats the othcr way).The trip takes abOut l)ろ hours.Trasinediterrinea

・ 1｀

he 4000 hectare park is a haven lor

sorne of the planet's n10st ancient forest land. Although called laurisilva, there is more to it than the several types of laurel that abOund.In fact,as inany as 400 sipecies

of■ ora, including C;anary

Ⅵll10ws and canary h。 1ly,nourish hcre.Thc r。 。fofthc iSiand,aS it Wcre,it is herc that cool Atlantic

trade winds clash with wal■ ner breezes,cre‐

ating a cOnstant ebb and now of mist

also opcrates up tO four hydrOfbils,、

tlirough the dense fbrest. Strearns are few and as ntuch precilpitatiOn cOrnes fr10rn the ntist as florn raill.Indecd,cOnservation of

takc 45 1ninutes and cost 2070 ptそ

thc ft)rest is esscntial to attract the lΥ lists and

vhich I,one way. ・ 「 hey continuc rOund the isiand to Vallc dc

thcir nloisture, which in turn fecds the

Gran Rcy(30 minutes)お r1000 ptas(Or a

iSiand's springs.Rel■ ivcly li■ le light pen‐

total of2350 ptas io■ l Los CristianOs).The

etrates the canopy, allowing inoss and

round trip bet、 veen San Sebastiin and Valle

lichen to spread over everything. In the trees you rnay happen to spot rare laurel

de Gran Rey is 1700 ptas. Lineas Fred()isen Operates a daily ferry to Santa Cruz de la Palina,leaving at the

and 10ng―tOed pigeons.

What yOu sec here was cominOn across

awkward timc Of 10 pm ald ariving there

the Mcditerrancan rnllllons of years ago

3:%hours late■ Thc chcapest tickct cOsts

2170 ptas One way(a cabin cOsts 6300

until thc fiOsty fingers Of the last lce age, which nevcr nlade it as far as the Canaries,

ptaS).

wiped it out. Hurnans have done n10re

TraSmediterrinea's EI HierrO ferry depans Once a day.Tっ/to get the direct SerViCe departing On altematc days at 10.45

ain(the trip takes 3%hours).IfyOu getthe

S pm CVery Other day,you go■

rst to lLos

CriStianOS and then dircct to EliHielTO■ oin there― a very long trip!・ he one‐ way trip

damage in the isiands than ice,but in this case at least, they have acted to prOtect a goOd chunk:ofunique land before it、 vas tOO latc― thc park was designatcd aヽ brld Her‐

itage site by tJNESCO in 1981.

costs 2350 pLS(the Same as iom Los Cris―

Information Oddly enOugh,the main visibrs'centreお

tianOS!).

the pa・ k iS Well ouむ ide it(see Agulo below)

I・

YOu Can buy ticket,atthe Estaci6n Marf‐

r

tima(iny te=ninal).

in the nOrth ofthe isiand.Pick up a copy Of the Cα ″レοs″ ′ α Gο″αα map(500 ptas)

Ge"ing Around

map/guidc to the island.Somc hiking

All you nced to gct around San Scbastiin is

tWo tet(unleSS yOu arc staying at thc

guides,■ lostly in(3crman,arc on sale atthc centre. ・ he centre alsO Organises guided

ParadOr,in WhiCh CaSe a taXiiS pκ

WalkS On Saturday, Setting o轟 :うronl La

if you don't already have a good walking

trable!).

I｀

Laguna Gremde.Call●

Around the ls:and PARQUE NACiONAL DE CARAJONAY La Golnera's outs● nding natural attraction iS the anCientレ お″ツα(laurel brCSt)at thC heart Ofthe isiand's natiOnal park.

'922 80 09 93 thc

day befbre,ifyOu are intercstcd. Scveral trails crisscross the park,mOst Of thcnl rOughly」 麟om north tO sOuth,and it is possible tO walk l辟 orn onc cOastto the other in a daly.

Itis forbiddcn to camp Orlight ires in the

pak(eXCeptin a tW designatcd areasin he latter CaSe).It Can get C。 ld here,and the

246 Around the lsiand―

Parque Nacional de《

danlp goes rightthrough to the boncs,even when it is not raining.Bring hiking boots, warm garmcnts and a rain‐ proofj¨ ket.

]ara」

Onay

tih and get or atthc Pttrito stop(where thc bus tums south).From herc it is about

On

an hour's Walk(SignpOSted)tO the peak・

a clear day yOu cari sec the islands of・ Ilener‐

Approaches to the Park

it,La Palma,EI Hierro and sometimcs

The TF‐ 713 highway cuts east‐ west riJlt thrOugh the park until it meets thc TF‐ 711 ■ the park'S WCStem e rCmiけ ,thC later

ran(〕 even l〔 〕

looping northward and thcn back to San Sc‐ vhilc the for.ler bends south for bastian, 、

tadero to the pcak.

anaria. lf you have your own

transport or gct a taxl,a much shottcr trail

(1.6km)leads up■ om the Alto de Con‐ Frorn the peak follolw thc signpostcd ipath

´

・ he four daily buscs ran Rey. 「

back down to Contadero. 「 here you will sec another track signposted noll:h to

Gran Rey actually make a fascinating detour south along a secondary road,

Caserfo de EI Cedro.This is mostly descent

branching OfF shortly before the Alto de araJOnay (the iSiand'S talleSt peak)and

through the hea」 :Ofthe park(and iS SO far the only trail described in a nree brochure handed out at the CentrO de ViSitanteS).

Vallc de (:〕

cach way bet、 veen the capital an(l Vallc de

([〕

cOntinuing westwards along a deCidedly tOrtuous route.・ They stop in such places as

lgualerO, Chipude, IEl(Ccrcado and Las Iayas before branching nollth again to rciOin thc main road.At Chipude another

and takcs about two hours.It takes you

(1)n thc I_′

inea l bus route, the dctOur

along the south of the park is fil1l of inter‐

I‐

cst.chipude,with its 16th‐ century lglesia

″α″οο to La rOad breaks tO fOl10w a bα ″

de la virgen de la candclaria, and EI CerCad。 (knOWn in panicular for its

E)aFna On the SOuth COaSt,but thiS iS fOr the rnOtOrised or thosc hitching. Another、 vay to enterthe park is nronl the nOrth‐

cast.Get orthe Linea 3 bus at Cruce

pottery productiOn)are intFiguing StOpS. Both villages are situated anlid rows of in‐

tcnsively farmed terraces.A din track and walking trail ofabout 3.5km climbう rom El

dc El Rcio.From here a secondary road

Cercado to La Laguna Grandc in the na‐

twists and turns its way south about 6km to

tiOnal park.Therc is a sinall pensi6n(●

922

the TF‐ 713(bus stop Cnlce de la ZarcitO.

804158),which charges 3600 ptas a

There are soine ine lookouts along this

double,in Chipude.

rOad, and OfF it branchcs a drivcable din

rOad(signpOsted to Caserfo de EI Cedro)

The South Coast Those with transpo■ or

that ineanders to EI Cedro and then along thc nOrthcrn boundary to Meriga. A minor asphaltcd road also connects the visitors' centrc at Juego de IBolas in thc

a will to walk and hitch could follow the

nO:11h Of the isiand to La:Laguna(:〕

rande,

abOut halAvay along the・「 F‐ 713 1針 onl the park's eastern and western boundaries.

stccp, serpentine and nall・ ow branch road south to La lDanna and past thc basalt,nat―

tOpped pcak of La FOnaleza(the Fo■ rcss;

1243m)■ om the Chipude bus stop.La lDa:Tla is little more than a sinattering of

hOuses and banana plantations high up above the Atlantic.You inight dig up a roorn

in&Around the Park MIost visitOrs make for thc Aito de Cara‐ jonay,■ Om where you havc splcndid vicws

in one of a couple of apartments here,but dOn't bank on it.A few stecp kilometrcs of track scparatc the town lronl a black pcbbly

Over thc isiand.Another favourite stop is l_a

bcach,Playa de:a Raliね ,which is made

Laguna G“ nde,just offthe highway and ideal for picnics if you aren't intcrested in

rather ugly by the disused factory that sits glumly back升 。in the shore.A rather pun―

eating at the restaurant.

ishingヽ Valk iniand(unSignpOSted)and then

′

rhere's a pOpular and well signposted ´ walk up thc Alto de GaraJOnay. Ilake the nrst Linea l or L`nca 2 busil・ om San Sebas‐

back dOwn the lBalTanco de la Negra gets you to a prettier version ofthe sarne. A g00d but dificult hike l・ uns金 olTI La

ArOund the lsiand一 No■ herll La Goinera 247

thc peasants ofthc area long livcd in iniscl)′

,

and rcvolts in 1690 and 1762 were merci‐ lcssly suppressed.′ I'hc original hean1 0fthe Village,the Valle Alto,is dorninated by the

lglesia de Santo l)o■ lingo and the convcnt of the sarne nanle,cornpleted in 1520. In Septenlbcrthe town is transfornled 10r

a wcck by the cЮ wds who gather■

omね r

and Wide fbr the Ficstas de la Encarnaci6■

.

lnforrnat:on ｀ YlOu'1l ind several shOps, SOme barS and tヽ vo banks with AT'Ms in the va‖ e"as well as a pe"ol statiOn.Thc tOurist

ofnce(管 922144025)is just behind thc lglcsia de la lEncarnaci6n in the lower part

oftown. Just by■ e cOnvent yOu'H ind a handi‐

Crans workshop,Los Tela“ s,where you can buy handmade rugs and various other souvenirs.It has becolme something of an obligatory stOp for busloads Ofday‐ trippers

Ernlita de NueStra SenOra de las:Nieves,

La Dama

iom Tcnerlお ・ hc San Sebastiin― Vallchcrmoso bus passes thЮ utt hcreお ur times a day e¨ h way. Rough wcather usuaHy makesthe nearby .

I｀

Ralim no■ h to Arguayoda(2km)and then a 〉 ut 6km eastwads to Alaler6,traversing vo ravines in the prOccss.・ our orienteer‐ ing skilis need to be in goOd shape,thOugh. At Alaler6 you are On the Linea 2 bus route bctween San Sebastiin and iPlaya de Santi―

Playa dc la Calcta,entalls about an hour's

ago.(See the Alaり cr6 entry later in this

hike(Sce thc Parquc Natural de Maona

Chapter.)

ent07 1誠 er in this chapteぅ

t、

lζ

NORTHERN LA GOMERA ritOry Once known tO the〈 ]uanch‐

cs as Mulagua,Heinnigua strctches sOuth to nOrth a10ng the bOttOn1 0fa preW raVinC Of thc sarne nanle, a century_01d centre fOr banana cultivatiOn fed by 、 vater cOrning dOⅥ 71l fiOm the Parquc Nacional de(]ara‐ n。

h,

oncc rnade it an irnpo■ ant expOrt outlet and “

many of the isiand's notablc families had ning has iost r:luch Of its irnp01liance, the tel■ ・ aces scaling the stecp sIOpes ofthe ba11・ anco are ap“ty sittt even today.Pretり ,yeS・ But their residencc here.Although farコ

.

Vaney are sca■ ered 15 casas mmles(cach Sleeping three t。 ■Ve peOple).Cali the

p″ 」 α′ ′ ο″′ 5θ θ ・ ρο

jonay.Its small pon,a tw knome■ es

SWimnling and sunbathing. The nicest,

PlaCeS to S●y a Eat Up and dOwn the

Hen■ igua Set in tel口

StOny beaCheS(Playa de l‐ lerinigua, Playa

de Santa Catalina)rather unSuitable for

Central reservations nunlber at tlle begin‐

ning of this chapter to ind Out what is aVailablC.｀ FiOu'1l be 10()kingiat around 6000

ptaS a double. Another dccent Option is И′α″″″′″′ οs ιοs 2′α″ ′s(● 9228807 81), right by the convent. ｀ doublc with attached kitchenete`10u fbr as canli"le get a as 4000 ptas.A pricey and n10re luxurious Oメ iOn iS the〃 οた′R″ ″ α′′ bο И′″ ″ ο(● 922

880168),west Of the main road about

halAvay a10ng the valley. Singles/doubles cost 7000/8000 ptas. Vinually wherc the village begins at thc

248 Around the lsiand-1ヽ

lo■ hem

La Go:ncra

southern end of the valley you can eat sOlidly for about 1500 ptas including wine ′ιαs and a simple dcsse■ at R′ s′ α″″α″′ Cカ メε α″ as.C)r for views of the ocean,try Rω ′ α′′ α″た E′ Fα ″ (atthe end Ofthe rOad markedわ r the′ ′ ッ α,Or beaCh).

Around Hermigua E:Cedro A walking track twists its way

south iom the village of Herinigua up towards thc Parquc Nacional de Garaり Onay. On■ le pa・ k tЮ rdels,EI Cedro is a rural harnlet antid farmed terraccs and laurel thickets.'Thc ravine and waterfall knoヽ Vn as La Boca del Choro a・ c bcautiful.In Her―

migua,ask fOr the s`″ d`昴 ο (trail)to El Cedro― itis about a two‐ hour hike. This is as goOd a spOt as any tO stan

in the north ofthe isialnd,and there's also a little reieshmcnt stand.

Agulo jο ″ノ ノ57 ・ ρο ρ″J′ ′ Five kilometrcs■ o:n Hennigua on the bus

rOute,the village of Agulo was founded early in thc 17th cenmヮ .Along with the picturesquc haniet ofLepe(population 20), it is sct on a lo、 v platfol■ ri behind which steeply rises the rugged hinterland that く [)ara」 Onay stretches back in towards the park.A cOuple Of steep trails■ om Agulo lcad up to a track that cuts in behind thc

village tO the spectacular Miradolr de Abrante,■om where you have magnincent views across the village and occan to′ Ilener‐ ifc.It's a 10ng walk and you can rnore casily

hiking in the park too,and the trail heading

drive arOund(if you have wheels)'om Las

south iom EI Cedro leads about 5km south

Rosas.

to the Alto de Gara,onay,although thc mostly uphill walk is casier the other Way

Piaces to Stay&IEat ln Lepe you could

(sec the Parquc Nacional de CarajOnay sectiOn earlier in the chapter).A lkm

stり

d″α′ wander out iom the hamlet iS the″ “ style Ermita dc Nuestra Seiora de Lourdes. In EI Cedro itsclf are four co■ ages for ′ια Иisrα α″′ rent,and thc Rθ srα ′″ ′ hc hanllct is accessiblc by dilt road (signpOstcd)ofF a minor Юad connecting the′ F‐ 71l and TF‐ 713 highways through 「

thOugh, as it is often booked up well in ´ advance. 「 herc's nowherc to eat here, so you'll have to head towards Playa lHer‐

.

I｀

the castern end(ofthe national park.

ο s D′ ′″ ● (,9228807 誠cα sα ″ ′

81)lor 6000 ptas a double― call ahead

migua or into Agulo.In Agulo itself,the

″ο″′沢″″ α′Casα d′ あsP`κ z(● 9221461 22)has comお 威able singics/doublesお r Ras′ α ″ α′r′ Z“ ′ α, on thc 5000/7000 ptas. 」 “ main road,does sinlple,eclonornical food. Mains cost less than 1000 ptas.

Parque Natural de Malona Clamped in bc"cen the craggy coast and the lirnits of the Gamjonay pak,this rescⅣ c also omers

the chancc to do sorne walking and get

away■ om

it all.A barely drivcable dirt

road winds its way,om Can・asco,halAvay

Las Rosas Next stop on the bus route west is thc

′ sprawling hanllct of Las IRosas. Ilake the turn‐ o∬ for La Palmita and aier a tw kilornctres you will strike the lCentro de

down thc valley be● veen Hentligua and the

visitantes dei Parque Nacional de

beaches,to eventually loop south and ineet the´ 「 F‐ 71l to San Sebastiin at I_′ as Casetas

B。 las.Itis wOnh calling in here,as the staff

Garaionay at a spot knoν vn as Jucgo de

(thCrC'S a buS StOp there)・ Offthe dirt traCk,

havc lpiles of inforination on thc park and the island in general and interesting gardcns

walking trails,so don't plungc in unless you are con■ dent ofyour trekking skills.

containing a inicrocosnl of the Canary

signposting is nonexistcnt on the ncw

lsiands'noral riches.´ 1lherc arc also handi_

A branch of tlle trail icads instead to Playa de ia Ca:e餞 ]..This represents about an hour's walk nrorn Hennigua.Itis one Of

on1 9.30 cran displays.The centre is open■・ am to 4.30 prn daily except Monday.Frorn valking trail lead here a back road and 、

and‐ pebble lbeaches

noith to the Mirador de Abrante.1lζou can sit

the prettier black sand‐

ArOund thc lsiand一 Northcrn La Gomera 249

do、 vll tO a meal at the(Centro's bar/restau‐

From the CcntO a minOrroad leads south to La Laguna Grande,a picnic and play area

offers simple, clean singlcs/doubles for 2000/3000p鯰 s.Pι ″sあ ″И″αソα(奮 92280 0073),Plaza de la Constimci6n 2,has basic roonls f:onl 1500/3000 ptas.For 2500/4000

off the′ rF‐ 713

ptas you can up the cOinfOrtlcvcl with o、

rant.

in the park.A branch road

vll

takcs you on a breathtaking drive along a

bath,TV and■ idgc.Thc owners also have

ravinc through the hamlets of La Pa:mib

a couple ofapartlTlents.

as you will ind on the isiand.It is said the

older folk around here still use the Silbo (〕

OFnerO tO COrninuniCate. Casα ι″rs,Plaza de Santa Rosa de Liina,

Las Rosas,is a ine Old traditional catcry Where yOll Can nlunCh on good tapas.A fcw kilornetrcs 、 vest, back On the rnain road towards Vallehennoso.is Rι srα ″′ α″た 二αs Rο sα s.It's a bit ofa tour‐ bus favOurite,but the views are、 vOnderful.

A good little place to cat with locals is the Rι s′α″″ α″′ θlコ r」 α″α, Calle de.Triana 19. ・ 「 here's nO sign,s。 100k fOrthe green doors.

Around Va‖ ohermoso Los Organos TO cOntcmplat this extraor‐ dinary CliflSCape(SOmething like a grCat

sculptcd church organ in basalt rising abruptly■ om thc ocean depths),4km no威 h ofVallchern10s。 ,yOu'1l need to head outto sca.The place t。 100k fOr bOats making the trip is actually Valle de(Gran iRey, in the

Va:iehennoso p″ ′ α″ο″ノ 8θ θ ・ ′ο

The bus iom Agulo winds its way 17km weshva・ds to the villagc of VallehennOsO,

passing through traditional fanming hanllets

like Tlamargada a10ng the way. Valleher‐ rnoso itselfmakes a g00d base 10r hiking in

thC area and into the Parquc Nacional dc Garajonay,with its shOps,pOst Omce,banks

(ATMs), petrol statiOn and so on. The 922800181)is at Avcnida

tourist ofncc(●

de Gui‖ emlo Ascanio 18,just orPlaza dc la(Constituci6n.It opens liom 10 am to 2

pnl, Monday to Friday. Just outside the town to、vers the volcanic lnOn。 lith Of the

Roque Cano,whOse rOck walis rise up 250m. Piaces to Stay&Eat This isn't thc great― Three kilometres nO■ h

cst beach teniito■

/・

Ofthe village dO、 vn a palin‐ stlldded valley, the rocky Playa de Viallehel■r10sO is a bit of a disappOintinent. lY`ou'11■ fe、 viprivate

nd a couple of pensiOnes and a houses and apartntents tく

thc villagc. Pο ″ sノ (●

)rcnt in

′′ ″α 〃′″ ″ ″α′ z 922800023),just`″orPlaza de la Con‐ “ iイ ￨′

stituci6n, charges 2500 ptas for a《 iOublc

(bathroom in the corridor).Ncarby,Casα β′′ ″αdο (no phone),Calle de Triana 4, “

_― ‐ 言

―

ヽ■ L￢ L.__

The striking basa!t cliff face of Los

OЮ anos,best viewed frOm the sea

ｏ ＞＾ Ｗ ・ ｍ 刀 ＞ ︵ｏ 一ｒ 一 一 一 一 一 一 ｉ 〓 一ｒ Ｉ 一

and Meriga.・rhey′ lre about as faithful a rc_ nection oftraditional rural(〕 。meran living

250 Around thc lsland―

Westem La《 ]orncra

sOuth_west Ofthe isiand(scc the Westcrn La Gomcra section l■ er in this chapter).The colunined cliff facc has been battered into its present shape by the ocean.

Alojera The main highway south of Vallc― herrnoso snakes its way along the valley thrOugh farming VillageS(SOrllC abandOnCd)

and up into thc wcstnl extremity of the

Parquc Nacional de(GaraJOnay. Sho■ ly

ofthe Great King,known as()rone before thC COnquCSt)iS Where it'S at.ThC maJOriり of La Gomera's accolilmodation is concen‐ trated in the area,and it is not hard to see

why. ・ 「 he vallcy is an iinprobably deep gorge carved out nrorn the ancient island rock that fans out in a snlali fertile delta as

it rneets thc ocean.Forbidding basalt walis towcr all around.

´ I｀

he area is onc ofthc isiand's lnost pros―

beforc thc hittway enters the park proper,

perous, but farmcrs have stretched thc

a side rott winds out west to Alojera,a

pOSSible tO the linlit,planting(bananaS and

sleepy settlement sprawied out abovc the black pebble Playa de Alo,cra.Tracks iead

tom試 。es especiany)in the mOSt unlikely

nonh to T":o(about 5km)and Arguamul

de ([〕

is the (8km).The best part of coming heκ spcctacular drive down fiom thc highway.

valley l″ alis arc vaguely reminiscent of thc

Ifyou wmtto stay,you should t,И ′α″α― ″′″ゎs Ossο ガο (● 922800334),at the entrance to town. Tlazo l&」

Arguamulln and around・ Tazo are

spots,including into the I〕 arranco de Valle

´

ran Rey. 「 he terraces cut into the

ten'aced ricc paddics in Bali.10ccan,palin stands,banana and papaya plantations― it is a beautinュ i vallcy.

Befoに you descend into thc va‖

ey itself,

yOu cOuld stop in Arure,、 vhere the views from the Mirador del Santo overthe ravines

he sOrne ine old traditional farm houses.´ surrounding arca also has the isiand's rnost

and out to La Pallna and El Hierro are

F・

・ extensive painl grove. 「 he sap is used to

splendid.There are a tw small restaurants in Aru“ .Before EI Retamal,a■ w kilo‐

make palm honcy,a local speciality― the

mc"es i■ her south,thcrc arc scveral more

sap is boiled into a kind ofthick dark syrup.

stunning lookouts along the highway.

A■ er another 3km walk is Arguamul, another tiny hanlet.Walking tralls iead on a kilolTletre to Playa del Reino,and you

Orienlhtion&information Valle de Gran

could also walk south‐ east up to the ridge

Thc high pa is known as La Calera.From here the Юad bksto La Playa(right)and Vueltお (lCft).BOth haVe Sma‖ bCaChCS and plenり 。f aCCOmmOdttiOn,and VuCitaS alSO

dominttcd by the Teselinde peak(876m) and then 10110、 v the Barranco dc la lEra lueva down into VallehelTrioso.

lヽ

In dry wetthcr you can get a car down this road:in wct weather itis onen impass_ ablc.

WESTERN LA GOMERA Va‖ e

de Cran Rey

α″ο′36Jf ・ ′ο P″ ′

Rey is really a collection of little hamlets.

serves as tlle area's harbour.

Street narnes and numbers are ali but nonexistcnt, so use a lllap― pick one up ■Om the tOurist ofncc(● 922805458)on Calle de la Noria in La Playa.It opens frorn

9 am to l.30 prn and 4 to 6.30 pm Monday

tO Stturday,ald ttom 10 am to l.30 pm

SO,hO、 v's your(〕 errnan'IfGerntany‐ upon‐

Sunday.An inlorination ofnce directed pri‐

Scaisyouridcaofnlln,thenVallcdcGranRey

marily at Gcman visitors,La Paloma,is in

is for you.・

I｀

he tourists are Gernlan,thc bar

andwaitingstaffare Gennan,the signs are in

German.The Canarios are in there some‐ where.… Still,itis a far cry,om the horrors oflage卜 loutland in southenl Tenerife! ′

Ilo the extent that tourisin on the island

has taken off,the Vane dc Gran Rey(Vaney

the healt of Vueltas.

The main post ofnce is in vueltas,whilc

the banks(some with ATMs)and petrol station are in La Calera.There is a Centro de Salud(clinic)at the northern end of La Calera.

If you want to send off an email, try

Around the lsiand― Vialle de Gran Rey 251

ar ′ s "日

dl′

"“

ι■ ,ι ハ γ■

烈 Valle de

PLACES 710 STAV

I;鑑 認

Cran Rey

l`='larrlar

電

1闘

』

20 Hdo10■ vi Reソ 密 Rns“ can“ lana 25 Pon● 6n tas Vuenas

PLACeS TOIEAT lR● ヨau“ nto EI Balb 21 RestaunnO EI Palmar

a)Tamban Ca,6

31 ROstaumnte La Sa“

θO■ ,■ ι

"

`″ 3 Gemdo'sintemd Bar

ι■ Pυ ″ 7′ ιι4

4 Travel Ageni

5 Tasca La Gα■om

6 Bar3 0on

7 Con"de Bu∞ o Flsch a Co Centro Oo Sa!ud

Dlso,Congas

﹁  ″ ﹄″姉

8 0ncina de Turismo Bus(,top ror san s● badian Ayuntaml● o

Taxi Rank “ 16 0us Stopお r san sOba“ an

′υEι ア■ S

18 0ank(ATM)

19 Petrd Shtion 22 Bik● Staton 23 Cor∞s y Tol的 raros

26 Caα ュ tua

27L8Paloma 2 3us Stop,or San Sebasuan

a)R"taunnO Abisinia η C:ub“ l Mar ““

●00,面 6) 僣 ,閾 ● り "0メ H"1日“ 口i■ ● ● 3■ ● ●麟,` “

出1電 需 liI昭 畿

ATLANTIC OCEAN

%

252 Around the lsland―

Westenl La Gomera

Gerardo's lnternet bar,in the Edincio Nor‐

and nlore are being built all the timc.You

mara,La Playa,a tw minutes walk iom

may want to get a list,om thc tourist

the beach.

Ofice.

Activities Walking up into the valley is

(E)ne ofthe preniest places you could pos― οs ′ α(3α ら′′ ′ sibly choose to stay is(]α sα Bο ′

pleasant,although it can get pκ

(●

tty hot and

you rnay want to abandon thc luxuriant greenery for a dip in the briny.1「 lhe black sandy stretch of bcach at La Playa is quitc

tiny, but inviting enough and a fcw stcps 「 orn several laid― back restaurants and bars. Iヽ

922805182)up in La Calera.lt is an

enchanting old iCanarian house with a dark wooden balcony and is sct anlld a grovc of shmy palms,hitt up the vaney.The easicst

way to■ nd it is to folow the sign right off the rnain road to the Centro de Salud as you

A ditt track lcads nolth to the west‐ facing Playa del lng16s.′ rhe beach at vueltas is nOt

approach La Calera■ onl the no■ lh.The

so prett,′

on the right.Rooms start at 2500 ptasお

,but a dirt road lcads cast to lPlaya

hOuse is a fbw hundred inetres funlhcr a10ng

ra

de Argaga and Playa de las Arcnas. ・ hcrc is a GelTrlan‐ n】 n dive centre oppo‐ site the tourist ofnce,the(gl″ rr。 ￨′′B,ε `。 F,sc力 ι Cο (● 922805688),Cane de la

sirnplc dOuble,and therc is a studio lk)r4000

Noria 5.It is open l[oin 9 anlto l pm daily except Friday. You can alsojoin one ofsevcral boat ex―

but apa」 tlnents,and the going priccs start at

I｀

ptas.The owncr also has a four― bcd apa威 ‐ ment across thc road for 6000 ptas. ヽ′ ueltas seerns to be rnade up of nothing

3000 ptas and head steadily upwards de‐

cursions.Thc most common takes vou to

pending on quality, nurnber of bcds and whim.Ifyoujust wanta no― nonsense room,

Los Organos,a bizarre cliff fonnation in

Pa″ な′ 6″

the isl帥 d's no■ h(see

simplc but clcan and comお .rtable doubles

AЮ und Vanchem‐

ras(● ιαsレタθ′

922805216)has

will take yOu right around the isiand.tJn‐ lolrtunately,the succcss ofthese cxpeditions

for 3000 ptas.Just up thc hill,P′ ″sfb″ (3α ″― α(● 922805402)has doubles with グ′′ α″′ their own bathroom for 4000 ptas. P′ ″sf`″ Pα ・ ′ αaα (● 922805052),ncar

depends on prevailing winds,and operators

the bus stop in iLa(Clalera,has uninspiring

do not guarantce you'1l scc cither dolphins

dOubles(communal bathroom)for 3000

or Los Organos,which mcans that your 5000pセ Isi a hcad could go begging.()ne

ptas.

assumcs that, since the operators haven't been boycotted, the success rate is pretty high!Lunch and drinks are included in the

(●

OSO earlier),WhCrC yOu may alSO gettO SCC dolphins and have a swim.Sornetirnes they

price.Depa■ ure is江 10.30 am iom the Vucltas po■

.

Whalc observing or yachting trips can alslo be or口 anised. 1｀ ickcts for the Los

く :)rganos trip can be bought a1l over thc isiand,butifyou wantinfol■ rlation on other

In La Playa,И′α″rα ″′″rο S P′ αツα″α″ 922805672),on the beach,has small

doubles with attached bathroorn and kitch‐ enette for as little as 3000 1ptas.

If you arc looking at going a little up‐

maket,tryん οた′G″ α″Rの,(● 9228058 59), on thc water■ ont about halfway betwccn La Playa and ヽ/ueltas. Singlcs/ doubles cost 7000/10,000 ptas, including breakfast.

boating activities, go and see Capitano Claudio in the Club del Mar,in Vueltas.

For windsuring(2500p● s an hou→ ,ask at Restaurantc Abisinia in Vueltas.

Piaces to Stay About half a dozcn pcn― sloncs are sca"ered evenly about Vueltas, La Calera and La Playa.C)then″ ise,the area is absolutely swarming with apaltments―

Places to Eat When it comcs to edible marine life,this is a good place for it.The

nrcsh ish, c。 lmbined with a g00d local mOiO,iS gCneraHy great Value・ Try Out Rasrα ″″ α″′ θ E′ ′α′ ″αr in thc Borbo14n suburb Gust ofF thc road linking Vueltas

with La Calera).They do a mean atin en

mojoお r850 ptas.

ArOund the lsland― Southenl La(3omera 253

In thc hean1 0f vueltas,R′ s′α″″ α″′ ′ια Sα ′ sα serves up vegetarian food.For a nlore

ltalian slant On yOur munching,try Rθ

α″_

s′

dc santiagO, ・rapahuga, chinguarinle and del Medio),a huge tOurist hOtel built by thc

Fred(Dlsen shipping cOnlpany,the planned

′ α″′ ο И″ι″たα,just Off the Plaza del

aiport nearby and ciaims tO the best year‐

cost close to 2000 ptas.

round clirnate on the isiand wili turn the placc around. ´

Cannen in Vueltas.A■ 11l meal here will

In La Playa,Rω ″″α″た ]Bα ψ o能 rs lBast

A good placc for breakfast is On the balCOny Of 7b″ みα″ αCα μ in Vueltas,with views Over the Ocean.

F'hc bcaches a11 lic at thc end of barl・ an‐

cos, and thc last threc can bc reachcd on foot or by car f予 Om thc nlain villagc along l.5krn of di」

trOad up and back down the

Barranco de・「 lapahuga.As else、 vhere on the

isiand, yOu wOn't be too excited by the beaches― they are thc usuai narrow strip of

Ente"ainment There arc quite a tw cOsy s open until about 2 am_27scα Gο ″θ″ α in La Playa is generally busy,as the nearby Bα ″33′″」n Vueltas,he測 ('α ι α′ ″α. Later on, the rnusic thurnps

black san(1,pebble an(l stOnc.

ια

littlc ba・

is

inforrnatiOn'The tourist ofnce is in the

おr at

CaSa de Cultura on the watern・

Dぉ cO CO″ gas in La Playa.

Ge"ing There&Away Four buses ieave daily fOr san sebastian,departing fronl at lCaSt three pOintS(One StOp eaCh in VuCltas,

ont Aivenida

Maritima and opens■ om 10 am to 2 pm MIonday to Friday.

The tOwn has a post ofnce,two banks (ATMs),general sbrcs and a petrol stttion. ・ he postcode 10r Playa de Santiago is I｀

38810.

La Playa and La Calcra).Altcrnatively,

three ・rrasmediterrinca hydrofoils depal■

Places to Stay'There is no shortage Of

for San Sebastiin and on to lし os CristianOs

apa」 :rnents in and around the village―

(Tenerit)'Om the mole behind Playa de

advertising phone nurnbers abound and yOu

las Vueltas.()ne way/return to San Sc_

are 100king in rnost cases at around 3000 to

bastian is 1 000/1700 ptas,to Los Cristianos the onc‐ way fare is 2350 ptas.

4000 ptas a double.´ he tOurist Ofice can 「

Ce"ing Around YOu can rcnt mountain

ン sf`″ E′ perfectly dccent pensiones. ′ `″ Cα ′ ″ 922895028)is a pretty place

signs

provide a list.

Alongi Avenida Marftima is a series of

bikeS,SC00terS and motor cyclcs at Alo■ Rcntals in La Playa.Bike Station in La Pun‐ tilla organiscs cycle excursiOns.

SOuTHERN LA GOMERA Piaya de Santiago α″ο″ノ θ ・ ′01′ ″′ `θ Playa de Santiago was one Untilthe 1960s Of the busicst centres On the isiand, with

draped"(雪 with plants.The rOOms are basic but

Clean,haVe nvo beds and cost 2000 ptas. fセ 渚 な′ 6″ Gα sα ″οッ ク(●

922895002)is iess

attractive but similar in quality, with Singles/doubles costing 1500/3000 ptas.A StCp up is Pa′ sあ ″ιαCα ν′ ο′ α(● 9228951 35).The main dimerencc is that rooms here have thcir own bathr00rn. I)。 ubles cost

food prOcessing factories,a snlall shipyard and port facillies for the expOrt Ofthe fam‐

3000 ptas. Spread out on the cliffis Overi00king the

iliar cash crOps― bananas and tOmatOes.

OCcan at the eastern sidc of town is the ′ grand μο′ ′′Jα 4グ′ ″7セ σ′ ″α(● /fax 922 89 50

CriSiS hit the farl■ ling SeCtor and by the 70s thc tO、 vn

had all but shut dOν vn,its pOpulace haVing ned tO・ rcnerife or South Arnerica in

50).Prices vary a 10t with the season,but at the time of writing it was a not unrcasOn―

search of work. No、 v lourisrn is cOrning to the rescuc. 1′ 。 CalS hOpC that their beaCheS(the playaS

able 8400 ptas plus 4.5シ 61(31C a hcad in ´ cornfortable doubles. 「 hc price includes breakfast and dinner.

一●３５ 口 ｍ５ ｏや導■ 導 ︲ ︲

an unusual rnix of French and South‐ Asian dishcs(such as gado‐ gadO).

254 Around the lsland―

Southern l′ a(〕 oinera

Piaces to Eat The wateriontis lined with inodest li■ le bars and eateries,and ish is the Order Ofthe day.Rasra″ ′ α″ra E′ Pα sο

del Paso,a chirpy processlon that dances its

way dov/n fionl the mountains. ,

on the corner of Avenida Marititna and Calle de Santiago Apostol(the road that

1｀ here are three casas rurales an(l several apartments in and around the village.｀ Y`ou'11 also ind three lnodest baノ restaurants,hvo

leads to Al荀 er6),is popular with locals and selves huge po■ lons.Tlり their ensala― da rnixta with avocado and asparagus ― you'1l have litie room left for the inain

ofthem just downh‖ l iom thc church. ′

coursc.

The Caserios of La Benchiligua

For a rneal with a viev′ , hcad uphill tOWardS the HOtel Jardin TeCina(and Playa

(:)ne ofthe prettier zones ofiniand southern

de Tapahuga)and park yOurSelf in thC R“ ′ α″″ α″た ■ gο κ″

halfLabandOned harnlCtS a10ng the n0111hern

Getting There&Away Four buses a day

`α of the rnark the south― castern boundary

link Playa de Santiago with the capital,

leaving iom the lhic P12a bmled by the

Parquc Nacional de GarajOnay. A couple of tralis iead no■ h into the

junction ofAvenida Mattma ald Cane dc

pak(going he Other Way,at le¨ t One iS

.

´ Santiago Apostol. he fare is 650 ptas. ・ here are sevcral car‐ rental outlets in iPlaya 「 I｀

de Santiago.

I・

he San Sebasti`n‐ :Playa de Santiago bus

passes through here bur times a day.

Gomera is La Bcnchijigua,a smatering of reaches ofthe 13arranco de Santiago,whose ヽ ValiS that Valley bu"S up againStthe′ 7,aS′

rnarked heading south into thc area 6rorn ´ the Roquc dc Agando by the 「 F‐ 713

highWay)and SCVera1 0therS traCe pathS

southwards along the ravines to the coast.

Ala,o“

Increasingly, fal■

α″ο″ノ ノ イ5 ・ ρOρ ″′ ・ 「 he only sizeable village outsidc Playa de Santiago in thc south― east of thc isiand, Alaler6 is a p“ tty,palm― t“ e studded oasis

nhouses are being con―

The modest 16th‐ century iglesia dei Saト

verted into pretty lodgings, but as yet the area relllains sparse and beren of the trap_ pings of tourism. No buses nュ n herc,but you could drivc or hitch up a minor road as far as Pastrana and hike up 6romn thcrc. く )theruハ se, take the

vadoris wo■ h a quick look.

highway to San Sebastiin along the

on the road ilonlthe fog down to the beach.

About l.5kln nolnh,at Agalan,you can

Loinada de Tlecina and tum offonto the dirt

sce the isiand's only surviving′ αlgο , or dragon trec― about a 10-minute walk west Of C highWay(the buS StOpS he“ ).

road tt Las Toscas(at the time of writing thiS highWay WaS C10Sed).YOu ShOuld bOOk

￨″

In September Gomeros'om far and wide convergc on Al`り cro to celcbratc thc Ficsta

your casa rural in advancc― call thc ccntral reservations nurnber cited at the beginning of this chaptc■

Isia de EI Hierro

HIGHLIGHTS

The smancst and westemmost member of

露 ﹄

the island was said to nlark the edge Ofthe

′

   

︲   Ａ

ｉ ｒ

・ Hiding away on the copper‐ red sand Of lerodal Playa delヽ υ ・ Tiaking the spectacular west― cOast drive and seeing the arnazing wind‐ blasted trees of EI Sabinar Lunch atthe Mirador de la lPeia,over― looking EI Golfo Hiking do、 ″n to Las Playas from the

is also about as far as you can

get iom the stcrcotypical image Of the Canary ISlandS.ThiS iS a rural isiand largely

untouched by tourisnl.´「 he high cOuntry, dripping With a Wet SWirling miSt(WhiCh,

by the Way,Can make driVing ha2ardOuS) and divided up by rough stone walls intO a grcen patchwork quilt of fan■ and grazing iand, is nlore reminiscent Of the lrish l″

′

years has donc nothing tO alleviate the rancour El I「 Iiell,o

‘

the reduction in air and sca links Over the

′７   ．“ ︲

Gom● ●

， ′ ′

  ロ

ignored by the rcst of the archipelago,and

¨ ﹄

ィ︲ｕｍ

vcloped and rnost rcmOte Of thc Canary lsiands_1。 cals onen feel thcy are being

Ｔ

Covering only 269 sq knl, and with a popul■ ion ofjust 8338,it is thc lcast de‐

．

Ｔ  一 ︵ ﹄

worid.

﹂一″・ 、 い． ¨

the Canarics,EI Hiero is knom to locals郎 La lsia Chiqui愴 (the Li■ lc lsland).In the days when the calnh、vas thoughtto be nat,

rnagnincent Mirador de:sora

est

country than a sunny subtropical paradisc. Like La Golncra,much of thc coastline is ruggcd and forbidding,whilc thc sOuth is a rnix of serni― arid, volcanic landscape and pine forest.′ he highest peak isthe Malpaso 「 (1501m). Scuba diving is possible in the rnarine park ofF La Restinga in the south, butthere are few beaches to speak ol

(and 300 more werc cOverd up by lava nows).

How the island got its name is anyOne's gueSS,butthere iS nOt a drOp OfirOn(″ ′ あ ο) `″ in the place. Perhaps the original inhabi‐

tants,thc Bimbaches,cancd it`milk'(力 θ″ ο). Ptolenly idcntincd thc、 vestern edgc of the isiand as the end ofthe l《 nOν vn wOrid in the 2nd century AI), and it rernained the

History El】 [Iicn・ o hasn't always been the tiny tot of

the(Canarics.About 50,000 years ago thc a“ a was hit by a quakc so massive that a third ofthe isiand was rippcd offthe n。 ■lh

`zcro rncridian'until replaced by the Grecn―

wich version in 1884. Anler thc Spanish conquest in the 15th centuV a lorin offeudalisrn was introduccd

side tand slipped away bcneath the waves, Creating thc crcsccnt‐ shaped coast of El 〈olfo. It inust havc been a vcry drarnatic

with Spanish farmers assimilating with

[〕

CVCnt― the enSuing tSunami(tidal WaVC)

thosc locals v/1lo had not bccn sold into

may have been morc than 100m high and

siavelly. In the subsequcnt quest for falln‐

probably crashcd as far offas thc American

land much of El lHierro's forests were

coast. ´ he last cruption、 vas 200 years ago,but

destrOyed. ´

thc isiand is littered with about 500 cones

ishing,■・ uitgrou′ ing,livestockandtourisin.

I]oday,the isiand's econorny is l)ased on

I｀

255

256 1sla dc EII― lierro― Special Events

1

』ヽ   ″

“一

，

К ①×

■ 一 ¨

●

q′

Isla de

EI Hie=o

賄協宙髭:旺 1静

EI CoI′ ο

｀

い駕督i恕

。 筋畿

“

■′ 9“ “ “

こ』

EI Ju14n_) ０∝α田“ 〓 ＪШ ШＯ くコ０”

M“ r″ ´:“ g C“

I"`9 疇 鰤●

Specia:Events

C)ther iestas of note include:

The icsta par excellence on EI Hierro is the B2り adadelaVirgendelosReyes,held

inearly

25 April Fiesta de los Pぉ tores(Shephed's Feぉ t)―

isin 2001).A July cvcryお ur ycars(thc nc procession involving most of thc isiand's

Dehesa 15 May

pOpulatiOn CaFiCS a StatuC Ofthe Virgin iOm the E:τ nitadelヽ luestra Seiora de los Reyesin

24 June

thewestoftheisiandrightacrosstoValverde. ´

June

I｀

he festival is accornpanied by nlusicians

and dancers dressed in traditional red and white tunics and gaudy caps;celebrations continuc fornlostofthc nlonth invillagcsand harniets across thc isiand.

La

Fiesta dc San lsidro― Valverdc Ficsta dc San Juan― ILa Restinga&Las Puntas Fiesta de la Apanada(Festival ofthe Clcver!) ―San Andrё s.Farnicrs gather fbr a livcstock sale at which eve=yone extracts a good price. 16 July Fiesta dc la Virgen del Carillen―

La Restinga

DAMIEN SIMONIS

ls:a de:Hierro Tlop Leti Stone wa‖ s on fann iand around Las Montanetas Tlop lRighti lglesia de las Concepc16n&IPlaza de Miguel Nunez,Valverde

Botom:Military parade,Valvede

P議 僣調

:s:a del Hierro Top Lefti VVo「nan ofヽ ノ alverde

Top Right:Casa ROSa,POZO de la Salud(Well of Health),near Sabinosa,EI Golfo Bottom:F)laya del Verodal,west coast

Valverde― History 257 August Ficsta de laヽ ′ irgen dc la candelaria_Frontera

the walis of an ancient vOlcanic cOne. It seerns rather like a set oftheatre stalis Over‐

looking the ocean.Cloakcd in a scerningly

Accommodation

perinancnt mantle of low cloud and At‐

With about 800 beds availablc across the

lantic mist,it is a rather dispiriting thcatre

island,it is advisable to lbook ahead in busy

and not a great introduction to the isiand.

pCriOdS SuCh aS the Summer(Or during im‐

pOnant iestas such as the Balada dC la

Luckily, Once yOu've arrived it's not so eぉ y to ttm straight aound and leave,so

Virgen de los Reyes).Winter,traditiOnany

get out and see the rest ofthe island,which

peak SeaSon forthe invasion ofnorthern Eu‐

makes the inelancholy capital well wOnh

ropeans in the other isiands, is not so problenlatic herc. 「Fhere is Only One

suffering.

cainping〔 ダ｀ ound,at Hoya dcl Morcillo.Frcc

canlping is Othcrぃ 7isc prOhibitcd On the

History

Flights conncct the isiand with Tenerife and ran Canaria,and a car fcrry with T'enerife

When Jcan dc 136thcncourtlanded here with his motley crew in 1405,he wasted little time in dettting the Bimbaches Ofthe area, then known as Anmiche.Whcn they surren― dered, the intruders rOunded thenl up for sale into siaven′ .Fo■ unately,not all the re‐

and La Gomem.

nlainillg islanders cndcd up suffiering the

isiand.

Getting There&Away ([】

sanlc fatc.

Getting Around

Valvcrdc only really canlc into bcing fol‐

A limited bus servicc covers the main des‐

lowing a devastating hurricane in 1610,

tinations on the isiand. Three buses ieave

when nluch Of the isiand's pOpulace fled there for shelten A couple of churches had

Valverdc at noon.(:)ne heads nOtth and then

west as h as the Mirador de la Pcia(125 ptas);a second goes via San Andr6s and Frontera(275 ptas)to Sabinosa(300 ptas) in the far wcst of the island;and the third

aims south to La Restinga(300 ptas)via ′ lsora and EI Pinar. rhcy all return tO

already been erected in thc area and in 1812

the tOWn WaS made the Sett Ofa″ ″″Jο ″ブ ο that covered the whole isiand,and in 1926 the isiand's irst Cabildo lnsular was estab‐ lished here.

Valverde the following day at 7 am. IE)rivers should be aware that thcrc are

Orienね tion

only four petrol statiOns On the isiandi two

Approaching iom the aerodrOme or Pueno de la Estaca, the one‐ way main street

ofthem are in Valverde,one is in iEI Pinar and the other is in ・ igaday. A full tank I｀

｀ 14ou'11■

nd it a challenge tO get iOst hcrc.

(knOWn fOr mOSt OfitS length aS CallC dC la

should be suf■ cient to get right arOund thc

Constituci6n)winds its way up(and south‐

isiand.

WardS)thrOugh tOWn.On Or near it yOu'11 ■nd tlle ip()st oficc,banks,travel agencies, a couple ofl)ensiones,car rental fll■ ns and

Valverde

an assortment of shops.

information α′ Ю″′ θ ・ ′Op″ ′ ′ `θ 「 he only capital in the Canarics nOt 10cated on the coast, the straggly 、 vhitc tOwn of valverde(。 r to give it its n」 i title,la villa

Tourist Orice The tourist oficc(奮 92255 0302).is at Callc dcl I_′ iccnciado 13ueno l (a sh。

strip which connects canc de la

(1)onstituci6n to Calle dc San Francisco, “ fOπ ning

thC tOWn'S main drag)and OpenS

de Santa Marfa de Valverde)rises 570m

rom 8.30 am to 2.30 pm Monday to Friday, う

above sca level,cradled by what remains Of

and iom 9 am to l.30 pm on Saturday.

258 Valverde

P“ a. さ ル m燿 ′ 置 Cυ a"蟄 ““ " l““ “ “

1

■ヽ

V

κ ⑬浄 Valverde

¨ ¨ ¨ ¨

アロ

ＯααШ¨ 〓 ヨ“ 口０ くコ∽一

PLACES TO STAV

3P● :"16n San neit 9卜 Ote1 0oomemng 21 Po国 昴 Casa“

PLACES TO EAT

“

2 Pam‖ a Nα 力o y pFa 10 BarLa O四 ta

22 RestaunnO Zabagu １４５６７０１ ２３ ４ ５６ ７０９” １ １１ １ １１ １１１

OTHER 師

Guada "ロ CMi

Cepsa Pool Sa10n Corα

Ds●o "y PubTd09綸 Kaye

,os

TmsmOd“ ran“ ofnce Cabldo lnsular

Bar EI Cl" :ngに ,a

dela∽ ncop“ n

Pla2a d,Miguei Nun● 2 Centは I Hlspano Bank

Ayuntamlonto Tou"st Of“ ● o Ta Stand So● odad Cα ,peratva de

23 Pubι o■ a 24 Pham暉 り

PaЮ I StttOn 26 EstadOn“ G¨ guas 25 She‖

′ Valverde― rhingsto Sce 259

Thcy don't have much,but a booklet listing ali the isiand's accorninodatiOn is wOrth gening h01d。 ■

R`s′ α″″ ″た Sα ″FV′ ブ ′ , next door to the

Medical&Ennergency Sen′

sOup)is g。 Od.R`s′ α″″α′ ′ ′ θzα らαgン ,cane dc San Francisco 9, is a similar deal― but

pcnsi6n of thc same namc, offiers sOlid mealS(baSiCally meat and Veg)fOr arOund l100 ptaS・

ices・ he hOs_

「

pital(● 922550079)on Calle de la Constituci6n is virtually the nrst malor building you pass on your right on the way into town■ om the po威 .The handiest phar‐

nlacy is on the corner of Calle de San Franciso and Calle de Jes6s N`口

"lreno.For an ambulance,cali the C″ ′z R9'α (Red

Cross)on● 922551136.

Their pOtalC de lenteJaS(lentil

avoid thcir pizzas. Pricier and good for grills is thc Pα ″ ″′ ′ ′ α Ⅳ ο力′ッ Dノα,Cane de la Lttita 7.A full iο

meal here、 vill leave you little change■ Orn 2000 1ptas.

Ente"ainment

The local Guardia Civil(● 922550105) is on Calle de Dacio Darfas in thc north of

Well, wc know you didn't cornc here fOr

thc town.

inuch quictcr than this.The tOwn's twO discos are Bar EI Cine,Calle del Doctor

Things to See

Quintero 6 oust off Cane de la Constitu‐ ci6n)and Disco Pub lく aye,on the corner of

Although pleasant enough tO wander around for half an hOur Or sO, the to、 vn 。優iers few specinc noteworthy sites.The

nocturnal cntertainnient.A capital can't gct

Calle de la Constituci6n and Calle de Marfa

M6rida.(1)r you could try a drink at Pub

18th cenmry lglesia de:a Concepci6n is

Lonia,Calle de San Francisco ll.Don't

a relatively siinple threc‐ nave affait crowned by a bell tower whOse niled‐ off upper level serves as a lookOut.Insidc,the polychromc P″ ″お′ ″α Cο ″σο ″οfろ ″ is the

bank on any of thcni though: a weekend

toWn's most prizcd piece of anwork.A private museuin,the Casa Museo,Calle del Provisor Magdalena 8, contains an oddbali collection of isiand curios and ■lemorabilia.

Piaces to Stay Pθ ″sf`″ Sα ″F′ ′′ ′(●

922550857),Ca‖ e

de Santiago 24,has doubles/singles starting

at 1500/2500 ptas without own bath, Or 2500/3500 ptas with.More expensive and spotlcss is the P′ ″sあ ″ Casα 力αs(●

spent in tireless research Of Valvcrdc's ni」 ltlit rCVealed that they Were all tightly shut!

Getting There&Away Air The isiand's acrodroine(●

9225507

25)lies 10km cast ofthe own.Up to three Bintcr nittts a day conncct with■ nerit None(7230 ptas),whne there is a twicc‐ weckly servicc to Gran Canaria with Air Atlantic(Friday and Sunday,9000 ptas).At the airl)。 ■l you'11■ nd car rental ofices,a bar and a shOp selling iocal prOducts such as

cheese and wine.

92255

0254),Canc de San Francisco 9.Singles/ doublcs arc 2500/3500 μas,and 100 ptas rnore for oν vn bathroorn.

The town's luxury joint is the〃 ο′ ′′ βοο″ι″ α″g(● 922550200),Calle del Doctor Gost l,where singleダ doubles cOst 4650/6550 ptas.

Bus The Estaci6n dc(Guaguas is at the south cnd oftown on Callc dcl Molino.Sce the Cetting Around section atthe beginning ofthis chapter fOr fヽ 11l details Of isiand bus

serviccs. The latest tiinetable infOrinatiOn

can be had atthe ofnce ofthe sociedad c。 _ operativa de T｀ ranspollles del il‐ Iierro on くalle dc San Francisco. [〕

Piaces to Eat For a quick snack or harnburgcr,yOu could do worse than βα′ια〈 ]″ ″ ′ α,C:alle de Lola Go1241ez 10.Othel,vise it's slim pickings.

Taxi Taxis(●

922550729)will● ke you

any、 vhere you want on tlle isiand,but it is

cheaper tO hire a car instead―

thcre are

260 Around the lsiand

several car hire■ 1■■s up and down(〕 alle de la Constituci6n and(Calle dc San Francisco.

α″′″′ οS βοο〃ο′ apa■ ments here.И′α″ ′ α″g 〃 (● 922550200),Canc dc la Tabaiba 6,

A day tour will cost about 10,000 ptas(so

is right on the、 vater's edge and has doubles

hiЮ a Car!).

for 8000 ptas. Enquire at the Hotel

Sea Trasmediterrinca(■ .922 5501 29) runs a daily ferry service to ILos Cristianos.

The direct service leaves at iTlidnight on Monday,VVednesday and Friday(4ン ちhours; 2350 ptas one way).The κst ofthe week it

Boomcrang in Vlalverde. Another turn― ofF■ oin the airpo■ road, about lkm nu■ ‐ her on, leads t。 aleta, (c‐

、 vhere there are a few houses, a bar and

phone box. You can splash around in an ocean rock pool, or lollo、 v the steps and

leaves at 2.45 pm and takcs a little longer

littlc bridge bcyOnd to a basalt rock face

becausc it calis in at san scbastian de la

bearing what are clalined to be ancient,un‐ ankly,they loOk deciphercd inscriptions―

Gomera(but theね re is the same). The ferrics depan frOm PuenO de la

fl・

as though anyone could have done thenl as

Estaca,9kin south ofthe capital.Trasinedi‐

a hoaxjust the other day!

terranea has an ofnce at Ca‖ e del Doctor Dolkoski 3.

South Coast Road Pueno de la Estaca is a frumpy,dishev‐

Getting Around ′ A Sociedad Cooperativa de rransportes

elled little place devoid of interest.'This is

where you'll arive and leavc on the ferry.A

rninibus leavcs at 8 arn daily to meet the irst night iom Tenerit,and another meets ・ ali the ferl■ es. 「 he ticket in both cases is 125 ptas.く )ther、 ′ ise you'1l need to take a taxi, for which you'1l be charged around

secondary road,pushing on down the coast, is overshadowed by a tall and jagged vol―

1000 ptas.

liiraque.The beaCh iSn't bad,but WatCh the undelllov′ .Another 4knl south,the Roque de

AROUND VAEVERDE

canic ridge,and after a couple ofkilometres enterS a tiny CluSter OfhOuSeS(arnOng thern a small pensi6n)collectively known as Tim‐

Echedo

la Bonanza is a little rocky outcrop rising out ofthe seajust ofFthe coast.

Five kilometres notth of Valverde,this tiny se■ lement is at the healn Of wine‐ grOwing territory that beneits iom thc voicanic soil.

the grounds of the′ α′αdο ″Ⅳ ο′ ο″α′グ′′ ″ 〃′ ′″ ο(● 922558036;fax 922 55 80 86),

A track leads west a tw k‖ ometres iom the village to the(Charco Manso,natural

Another 8krn and the road peters out in lα

in an area known as Las IPlayas.Singles/ doubles with sca views cost 12,400/15,500

swi:nming pools scoopcd out of thc vol‐

ptas a nittt,making it thc isiand's prcmicr

canic rock.

cstablishrnent.From here the only way out

Tamaduste a caie●

with whccis is by hcadingiback to Valvcrde. I)ivcrs should iook out for Club dc 13uceo

About 10krn cast of Valverde at the end of a side Юad or the airpon highway,Tama_ duste is little rnore than a huddle ofhouses

Hicro Sub(● 922550482),Caretera de las Playas 5,along the road north Of the Roque de 13onanza.′ rhey ofller courses and

clustered around a relatively callTl inlet

diving ofF the coast and/or nrom a boat all

idealお r SWimming in the Summer(al―

year round.

thOugh the beaCh iS rninuSCule).Indeed,it iS so popular with I「 Ierreios that somc havc started building holiday hornes here!()ut of

Around the isiand

thc black voicanic soil grow stands of grapevine,thriving in the shado、 v ofthe riin Of a forrrlcr volcano. 1lζ

ou could stay at one of several sets of

With your own transport you can rush around pretty rnuch the、 vhole isiand,back‐

Arollnd the lsland― Northern Circuit 261

tracking sevcral tirlles along fairly good

roads, in one day. Using buses and your own two tet you'1l need a 10t morc timc. What lollows is a series of routes which, combined,present a roughly counter― ciock―

sonable lunch stop.(3crcal and potato crops, cabbagcs, al.1。 nds, cucalyptus, ngs and various fruits all lΠ ourish in the rich soil

here. The plots are divided up by rough

Valverde.

、 valls(of volcanic stone which recall in no snlali measure sornc of thc wilder country ofwestenl lreland.

NORTHERN CiRCulT

Andr6s is the Chamuscada(1136m).About

Following thc TF‐ 91l out ofValverde,you

4knl to its north― cast,and reached by a di■

reach Mocanal after 5knl.´「 his is onc of several fanning villages you'll encounter along the road.Cuarazoca,3km further on,

track that runs offthe San Andr6s‐ Las Mon‐ taietas road, you can visit the site of lEi

wise tour around the isiand, starting nrorn

is siinila■

The nlodest peak to the north of San

Thc surrounding ineadows are

fertile ground,and the whole arca is lre‐ quently enveloped in sea mist.A short drivc,

or rathcr long and steep、

vallく

, down the

Gar(D6,the ancient α″bο ′sα ″′ ο(holy trec)

of the Birnbaches. It was said to spout water, a nlyth explained perhaps by the rnist‐ induced cOndensatiOn on the trec's

icaves. With paticncc, small quantities of ′

slopcs lrorn Mocanal are the renlains ofthe

drinking watcr could be c。 1lected. rhe

coastal hanllet of Pozo de Las(Calcosas, where you will ind another occan_sidc rOck pool and the沢 lasrα ″″ α″′ ′zα B.α ″ ια

ancicnttrec is long gone,replaccd by a ncw

Back on the inain road,you next arrive at

Andr6s the Mirador de Jinaina affords

.

rnodel in 1949. A couple ofkilornetres south‐ 、 vcst ofSan

the Mirador de ia pena,designed by C:6sar

magnincent views down ovcrthelow i

Manriquc and housing a restaurant riorn

plains of El Golfo towards thc isiand of La Palma to the north― mist pemnitting.

whose tables you can cnioy magnincent

le

views down the length ofEl Gollo(open at

noon for lunch and 7 pm for dinner).You can't take a vehicle dov`n to the coast florn here, but thcre is a、 valking trail dOwn tO

Las Puntas(see below).Anothcr track trails off northward to Punta de Salmor,■ oin

where you can observe the lRoques de Salrnor, an irnportant nesting spOt fOr scvcral bird spccics and reputedly a habitat

Of the primeVal′αgα ″ο″ ′助 励 ο″(liZard Of SalmOr). ′ I｀

he road doglegs back inland across

highland fields. ・rhe largely abandoned

SOuTH TO LA RESTINGA A 、valking trail ineanders its

、 vay south from San Andr6s to the cheese‐ producing village of isora,or you can take the sec‐ ondary road that branchcs off the′ rF-912 highway just north‐ east of San Andr6s. BCyOnd thC VillagC(WhiCh haS a COuple Of reStaurantS and One Or口 。apallmentS)On thc edgc ofa ridgc known as EI Risco de los

Hcrrcios is the ine Mirador de isora. Looking over Las Playas and to the ocean, it gives you the feeling of st`■ ・ ing into in‐

houses of Las M(ontanetas, one of the

■nity.A track allows hikers to descend to

isiand's oldest villages,are scattered about

the COaSt here(reCkOn On abOut an hOur

in a bend in the road that leads to San

dOWn).Or yOu Can fOl10W anOther rOad south‐ lⅣ cst back on to the La Rcstinga

Andr`s. Although farniers continuc to work the land and run sinall herds ofsheep, goats and evcn sOrnc cattie up here,the un‐

highway.Tum」 en(south)and f。 ‖。w the

pleasantly damp clirnate has ied rnost of thenl to rnove a、 vay.Winter at San Andr6s,

the Mirador de las Piayas(not signposted)

om

Ifyou wantto camp or stop lor a cilitics havc bcen laid on at thc

１

HOYA DEL MORCiLLO

ｌ ｂ ｅ ｄ

ing,but in surnrner you roast.A couple of places()n the main road could make a rea―

lieS OfftO the le食 (CaSt). ． １ ︶ ︲ ｃ も， ｉ

1100rn above sea level and only 8kln fl・ Valverde on the′「 F‐ 912,is no rnore entic‐

signs for La Restinga.｀ Yiet another lookout,

262 Around the lsland―

IEI Pinar

Morcillo recreation area in the pine lorest,

the Cueva lDon Justo(you'li need iocal

a few kilornetres west of the highway and just nonh of EI Pinar The road eventually

help to ind it,aS therC iS nO Sign). With

turns into a dilt track to cross IEI Julin, a

protectcd pinc forest that reaches ali the way across to the、 vest of the isiand. For ccological reasons,you are suppOscdly only penrli"ed to drivc about 12knl along this

nlore than 6kFn OfVOiCaniC rOCk tunnelS and passages, it is said to be the sixth largest cavity ofits type on the planet.

LA RESTY:NGA Hoine to thc isiand's ishing ncet, this is

road.′ 1le flee canlping ground has cooking

also thc placc to bc if you want to do

facilities and showers.

some diving ofF EI Hicro.The Reserva

I｀

・ 「 hose with an archacological bent might like to walk about 5krn west ofthe camping ground along the route to the Faro de()r‐ chilla.ノ ヽ bout a 20‐ minute rough scranlble downhill,Om tha pOint is the ancient site

Marina Punta de la Restinga is homc to a rangc of ocean marine life.・

I｀

his is a good

thing, because on iand thcre is precious little to occupy your senses in this vol‐

of Los Letreros,the most imponant rock

canlc descrt. Thcre are t、 7o divc centrcs.The Ccntro

engravings,or petroglyphs,lett behind by

de Buceo El Hierro(‐

the Biinbaches.I,Iowever,no‐

Avcnida Maritinla 16, opens all year and

onc has a clue

922557023), ou

what they rnean.And because they've been

does daily boat dives and night dives.｀

vandalised in the past you need written per‐

can rent or buy equipinent and do ACUC

Yζ

922

miSSiOn b get Ю them(aSk at thC tOuriSt

courses at all levcls.El Submaino(●

ofnce in valvcrdc).

558058),Avcnida Maritima 2,omers

EL PINAR

nluch the same options.You are looking at about 50001ptas a dive ifyou have nO gear,

Just south of the Hoya del Morcillo■ ■■ト 。r, the high、 vay hits the villages of iLas CaSaS and Tlaibique(a biggiSh SettiCrnent with supenmarkets,banks― no A「 FMs― bars and rcstaurants),conectively known as El

and fron1 40,000 ptas for a beginner's

Pinar(beCauSC Of the aCa'S pineお reStS). ou could havc a quick look around the private museo de lPanchi::。 (signpostcd at the nOnhern end Of Taibiquc),lul1 0f

you could try Pα なわ″Kiク たル

curios.・ I｀ he town seems tO slide precariOus―

(●

1:ζ

ly down hill, and just befOre yOu leave you'1l see f`ο た′′レα″(‐

922558008),

′ ravesfa del Pino 64,whcre singlcs/doubles with bath, ・ V and phone cost 3600/4500 I｀

I｀

course. 1｀

here arc about a dozen holiday ho:1les

and apal■ inents to let in La Rcstinga,inany

ofthern on the water6ront.Aside frorn thern r」 ″ ο (奮 922 `α 558034),right on the water'sedr,which

ofΥ iers

basic singles/doubles lor 2000/3000 ・ he(Gerinan‐ run P′ ″sf`″ ■イ ptas. 「 αrfα s′

922558189),Callc del Para1 2 at the

entrancc to the villagc, has simple roorns for 1500 ptas a head. (E)n the stolT:ach nront, ish is the pre‐

dictablc curc for hungcr pangs. Scvcral

ptas. Neixt door is a deccnt rcstaurant, of

waer■ Ont eating hOuscs wil1 0bligc.Try

which there a couple in town.Hcad a little

″ Ras′α″ α″′ ′Casα ノンα″,Calle de Guti6rrez

way uphill along the inain road lそ )r a drink

Mont 23,where a meal will comc in at

with the 10cal good 。ld bOys in the βα″

around 1500 ptas.

ル ″″dι ο `θ Fro:n´“ riaibique it's anotllcr 1 5knl south to

The bus fb)r Valverde leaves at 7 arll and costs 300 ptas.

.

La Restinga.A li■ lc over halfway is a tunl―

ofF wcstwards for the Cala de Tacoron,a set of desened coves facing thc Mar de las

EL GOLF0

・

rlo proceed any、 vhcre on,whecls nrorn La

Calmas,whose limpid watcrs arc hard to

Restinga,you need to head back noll:h the

resist.Two k‖ ometres shon ofLa Restingヽ cave enthusiasts nlight like to look out for

way you came,ぉ ねr as the junctiOn with the・ F‐ 912,lk■l I｀

west of San Andr6s.

Around the lsland― Frontera 263

Space invaders :n eany 19(Ю ,the l時 trumOus began to clに u!aね of pians to bu‖ d a Юcket■ aunch pad on

E:Hiero.Oniv in December ofthat year,howevet did the Ministry of Defen∝ come ciean and admitthat t was studying such a proposa!.The Ministrゾ s

)in Madnd

instituto Na‐

ciona: de・ 6cnica Aeroespaciai needs a launch pad fOr Spain'S p:anned ArgOs and r・

capncOmiO missi:es.The praeded site:s nearthe Faro de Orch‖

:a in the is:and's south‐

west,and wOu!d indude a splce launch centre(Centro de Lanza:miento Espada:).A cOntrO:。entre l″ ould aiso be buin on Ma!paso,the is:and's highest peak. vvhi:e it becanne c:ear that the prOvincia:cananes governrnent had gOne a:Ong with the

idea,the Cabndo of E:Hiero,backed by a goOd many Herrenos,came out against the hi:e,no one took any nOtiCe.:n March of 1997,the Ca‐ ′ a″ zadem (:aunch pad).For a、 ″ nanes govemment set up a commission o“ nquiv into the viab‖ iけ orthe E:Hiero rocket centre― and seenned we‖ disposed to the idea.

space cettre wou:d vio:ate Furopean dired

es on

The Cabldo de E:Hiem voted to oppOse

missi:e

At the

most see.grattti:

PeaceF). ‐

will follow the TF-912 in its sweeping cres‐

cent along thc crown of thc volcanic wall that overiooks EllGolfo.The malpaso pcak (1501m)is the isiand's hi♪ est.A din track

known as the([〕 arnino de San Salvador (signposted)veers south ofF the highway

One kllometre wo並 ,Tigaday is another ma,Or Village,With ShOpS,bank,ba/reSmu― rants and a petrol station.Hang a right and f0110w the rOad n。 ■h‐ eastto Las Pun嬌 .(On c way,。 ffto the len,aethc mly κsbrcd cOttagcs OfCasas de Guinea,another con‐ tender fOr Oldest village ofEI Hicrro(along

with Las Montaictas).Thc stOne houses

and takes you to the foot ofthe nlountain― it's about5km ofdi■ 廿ack,solne ofit pretty

havc mostly been conve:ted into little

rOu』・

Around`″here is also thc Lagaltario (1● 922556062),where you can see a few

′ 「 he´ FF‐ 912 then zigzags down into the

αPα″′ α″

′ οS・

coastal plain,where tlle Arst tovvn you en‐

οs″ ′ αgα ″′

counter is Frontera,the narne also used to

found only on iEl Hierro.It is only open to

cOver all the villages looking onto lEl(:)olfo.

the public倉 。ln ll ain to 2 pm public on Thursday. Another couple ofkilometres and you are

｀

Ou will ind it hard t0 1niss the lglesia de

kζ

Nuestra Senora de Candelaria,built out‐ side the town in 1818. Its bell tower is a striking,squat threc_storey edincc erected

"“

′,a rare lizard specics

in Las Puntas.The star atlraction is the old

POrt building, built in 1884 and now rc―

On a hill of volcanic ash so tllat it could be

stored and converted

sccn fl・ orn

(:〕

all over thc plains.

into what the

uinness Book of Records considcrs to be

中 Ｏ Ｆン ロ ロ 田Ｆ 〓¨

FRONTERA

・ 「 hose sticking to asphalt roads anci/or buses

264 ArOund the ISIand―

Sabinosa&Around

the srnallest hotel in the world,the enticing

″b′ θ′P′ ″rα G″ α′da(● 922559081), whose i:npeccably kept fOur rO011ls cOst 7000 ptaS a night,or 5000 ptas for single OCCupatiOn.Breakfast is 750 ptas lnore per person.If you can't get in here,you could tw the surrounding apanmcnts.И ′α″′ α_ ″ οS Zο s Rο 9″ ″ Sα ′ ″ο″(● 9225590 `″ “″わs NO′ ″F('9225592 16)and И′α′″″′

03)are both cIose by.The latter charges

inost south‐ western pOint ofali Spanish ter―

ritory,the Faro(lighthousc)dc()rchilla(the last 2km are dirt track).The coastal drive fi・

orn SabinOsa On is quite spectacular,cul_

minating in a set Of dramatic switchbacks ater Vcrodal. Although robbed Of its status as `zero meridian'last century when it was trans‐

lerred to Greenwich in the UK, the lighthouse still lnarks the ■rst or iast COntaCt With iand(depending On WhiCh Way

about 6000 ptas lor a double with kitch_ enette, while the fOriner gOes as high as

yOu are going)10r marinerS plying the

9000 ptas.

rough Atiantic seas between Anrica and

Pensiones and apartments are scatcred a1l over thc area.In′ igaday,you could do 1｀

WOrSe thm Paお ′ ι″E′ G″ α″ε力 92255 yn,where 9065),Cane de la Cruz Alね `(● Simple,Clean rOOrnS willset you back 1500/ 2500 ptas. JuSt wcst ofTigaday is Los Liani::os,an orderly little hanllet which cOuld win any

tidy town award.A10-minutc walk to thc COaSt bringS yOu tO thc Chaco Azul(BIuc

EurOpe On the Onc hand,and thc Arnericas On thc othen・ rhc couplc of kilornctrcs of dilt track dO、 vn tO the lighthouse are cx_ ccedingly cornlgated and inake for a bunlpy ride― you want tO have a fervent love Of lighthouses tO bOthe■

La Ernlita de Nuestra lSenora de ios

Reyes

POnd),a SWimming pOnd Cut out of thc

IBIack on the asphalt rOad,hcad iniand a few kilolnctres towards El Julin.The rOad takcs

ocean rock.

you tO an unassurning chapel that contains

SABINOSA&AROUND SiX kilornetres wcst of Los Llanillos,Sabi‐ nOSa rnarkS the ヽ VeStern high point of lEl Golfb.You can stay■ hc Pθ ′ なめ″Sα ιレοsα (●

922559355),Canc dc Valcntina

Hcm`ndez 7(doubles cOst 3000,aS),Or

the iinage of the Virgen de los Rcyes (Madonna ofthe Kings).In July evcγ おur years(the nextin 2001),virtua‖ y evcryOne on the isiand gathers tO witness Orjoin the prOcession in、 vhich the iinagc,seated in a sedan chair,is hauled ali thc、 vay a10ng the

Camino de la Virgen to Valverde.Thc prO_

keep following the rOad aslit winds down to

the COaSt at P020 de la Salud(theヽ 力iel1 0f Iealth). ・ he natural sulphurous spring I「

1｀

water is used to treat variOus ailinents,and the lide wen isjust outsidc the casα R。 認

922559022),a quaint li■ le hostal with its own κstaurant.Rooms with a bah he“ (●

cost 2000/3000 ptas. Ab()ut a 45-minute

Walk WeStWards,Playa de:as Arenas B:ancas is nOt a bad beach.

LA DEHESA Faro de Orchi‖ a The Юad■ om Sabinosa archcs right Ю und

the WCSt COaSt Of What is known as La Dehesa(the Pasture).You pass a cOuple of beaches, including the rust― red v。 lcanic

Playa dei Verodal, before reaching the

DAMIEN StMONIS

The Sabina trees Ofthe high、 ″est grow into unusual shapes,batered as they are by the prevailing At!antic winds

Around the lsiand― Sabinosaゼ セ へround 265 “

cession is known asthe Baada“ la virgen de los Rcycs.

Ei Sabinar lf the dirt track is dry and you have a vehicle, you can continuc up this windswept height nained ater the sα

bJИ θis

GuniperS)WhiCh grOW heЮ in SuCh a mal‐ lormed way.Bending before thc ccaseless

●kc thc len fbrk_it's signpostcd.Back江 the fbrk,you could procecd n。 ■h a nl■ her 2knl to reach another spectacular iookout, the miradOr de BascOs,金 。lm which On a clear day you not only have an unintern,pt―

ed view the lengh of El Golfo,but may cvcn make outthe isiands of La Palma,La Gomera and Tenerit.

Atlantic winds, they have become the

Froin here you have no real choice butto backtrack to thc EInnita。 'Ilo return to

island's symbol.

Valverde you really have to ret"ice■ e route

1lo get here,follow the road around the

back via Frontera. ・Fiou could also hike

back of tlle Enτ lita de los lReyes. It soon

along hcre to tlle carnping ground at Hoya

arns into a di■ 廿ack.Aner roughly 2km

del Morcillo.

一 Ｏｒ＞ Ｕｍ ｍｒ 〓“ ｍ力”０ ・ ．

Glossary abie薇 o一 open

ermita― herinitagc Or chapel

a■ cionado― enthusiast

estaci6n ―tenninal estaciOn de guaguas― bus tenninal

apanadO de cOrreOs_post office box

apnea―

es● ciOn mar“ ima― iny terminal

snorkelling

a:1:esonado ―cogicred celling ayun餞 lmiento― tOwn hall

faro― lighthOusc fiesta-lestival,public hOliday Or party

barranCO)― ravine or gorge.All butthe hvo casternrnost isiands are ripplcd by these

fin de sennana― weekend

ravincs which cut paths nrorn the nlountain_ ous centres to thc coast;they oftcn represent the only interruption to long cOastlincs Of rocky blunt and cli■ ゝ barrio一 district,quarter(Ofa tOWl1 0r City)

go■ o)― ground,roasted grain used in place of bread in(Elanarian cuisine

biblioteca― library buceo一 scuba diving

ing accOnlinOdatiOn in the one to three star

guagua― bus

.

hostal― commercial establishment prOvid―

range; not to be confuscd 、 vith youth hostels,of、vhich there is Only one through― out the islands

cabi:do insuiar ―isiand govcmment calero autOmatic。 _ automatic teller

machine(ATM)

iCONA―

Instituto para la COnscivaci6n dc la Naturaleza

Carnaval― festival celebrating thc begin‐ ning of Lent,40 days before Eastcr

lGiC-linpuesto General lndirecto Canario

casa rura:― a villagc Or cOuntry hOusc or

(10Cal VCrSiOn Of ValuC added taX) igiesia― church

farrnstead with roo■ ls tO let

cascO_literany,hclmct;。 ■en

uscd to refer

to old centrc oftOwn caseriol― traditiOnal farinhOuse Or hamlet

l:egada―

catedral― cathedral centro colmercial― shOpping centre,cOrn_ mon in coastal resOrts where they usually

arrival

iibreria― bookshOp :is.Ll de correos― poste restantc

『nadrugada ― the `carly hOurs', lrom

contain not only shops,but restaurants,bars

around 3 am to dawn;a pretty lively time in

and other facilitics fOr tOurists

the cities and rcsolts!

cerrado― c10scd co)medor― dining

nlarcha― actiOn,nightlifc,`the scene' :71erCadO― inarket mesela― high plateau

roOrTl

co口 nsaria― National Police station

Corpus Christi ―fcstival in honour of

mirador-100kOut pOint

thc Euch`rist,held eight wecks aner Easter

cOrreOs_post ofrice

muelie― wharfOr picr :nuseo一 inuscum,gallery

cruz ―crOss Cruz Roia― Red Cross

norte― no■ h

duro― common name for 5 ptas coin(lt―

oeste― west

erally`hard')

o■ cina de turism(o一

east este

piscina― swirnming p001 playa― beach

entrada― cntrance 266

tourist Ofice

Glossary 267

pueblo― village

puerh― door

n― Sin numer。 (With。 ■ number);SOme‐ tirnes seen in strect addresses

puo咸o一

sur ―south

p。 ■

S′

rastr。 _nca inarket reLblo一 」呻 icce rometta― おstive pilgrimage or pЮ cession

Lipas― bar snacks traditionally served on SauCer Or id(′ ″ α) ●可eL dec“ dito― crdit card

sa]ida― departtre or exit

tasca ―pub,bar terraza― teracc;outdoor cat● bles

Sernana Santa― HolyヽVeek,the weck leading up to Easter

Sida― AIDS

LleL bief6nica― phonecad

va‖ e_vaney

index ABBREV:AT:ONS F― Isia de Fuerteventura G― Isla de La Gomcra

GC―

H― Isla

de EI Hiero

L― Isla de Lanzarotc

P― Isia dc La Palma T― Isia de Tenerit

Isla de Gran Canaria

MAPS Arreci偽 172

Isia de'Ilencriit 1 86

Canary lsiands colour nlap opposite p16 Co"alc」 o154

La Laguna 198 La Orotava 206 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Is:a dc E‖ Hierro 256 1sia de iFucltcventura 1 48

Los Cristianos&Piaya dc las

1sia dc Gran Canaria l18

Los Llanos dc Aridane 233

Santa〔 〕 ruz de la Palma 224 Santa Cn】 z dc Tcnerifb 190

Mo“ o

Va‖ e dc Gran Rey 251

Playa del lng:6s&MaspalornaS 140 Pucno del Rosario 151 Pueno dela Cruz 202 San Sebastian dc ia Gonlcra

120‐ 1

Amё ricas

213

240

1sia de La Gomera 238 1sia de Lanzarote 167 1sla dc La Palina 220

:Lス

Jable 163

Valverde 258

I

map reLrcnces″ ein bo:d type

Agaete(GC)138 Aguiar Garcia,Jos6 35

Abora,sι ′Alcorac aCCOFnrnOdatiOn 79-81

packages 80 Accdo,Pedro Pcrdoino 38 Achanlan,s`´ Alcorac actlv:tles 75‐

8

boat excursiく

)ns 252

cycling 75 diving 76,77, 127, 141, 155, 160,163, 171, 182, 186,

Agulo(G)248 air trave1 96-106 buying tickets 97‐ 9 to/■ om

A■ ica 103

Arbelo,Rosana 39 architecture 36-7

Arcncibia,Jesis 35

tυ 什om

lo府 om New Zealand 106

Arguamul(G)250 Arguayo(T)210 Arguineguin(GC)143 Arico Nuevo(T)218

to/■ om

Arico Vie」 o(T)218

Austdia 105

Ю/■ om mainland Europc 102‐ 03

North America

103-05

■shing 76,155,182,186,212

to/6rorn South Anlerica 105

goif 77-8

to/■ om

hiking 75,221,228-30,

100‐

the UK&Ireiand 02

99‐

Arinaga(GC)134 Arona(T)218 Arrecife(L)168-76,172 getting around 173-4

travcllcrs with speciai nccds

jetskiing 155

mountain biking 142,160 sailing 76‐ 7, 186,212

Antiguo Mo‖ no(F)159 apanlnents 79-80

to/1ronl Asia 1 06

203,212,221,252,255

238,252

Anaga mountains(T)200 Antigua(F)159

100

geting there&away 173 history 1 68-9 places to stay 1 71-3

snorkelling 76

within the Canaries llo airlines 96‐ 7 al甲 o■s96‐ 7

suring 75,155,127,

勺 uy(F)160

Anenam(GC)139

Ala」

ans 34-6

141-2

swininling 76,141,238 trekking 75 windsuring 75-6, 141‐ 2,

155, 160,182, 186

AdeJe(T)211

er6(G)254

Alcorac 15 A:dca de San Nicolis(GC) i38-9

architccture 36‐ 7

books 59 1itcrature 37-9

AloJera(G)250 Alto de Gar句

places to e江 173

Arrieta(L)176

onay(G)246 268

nlusic 38-9 painting 34‐ 5

269 1ndcx

sculpturc 35‐ 7

Casa de los Capitanes

Iglesia dc la Concepci6n(T)

Amre(G)250

Generales(T)197 C¨ a dc los lrianc(T)201

1glesia dc la Concepci6n(H)

autornatic tcllcr nlachines 54-5

C^a de Miranda(T)201

Ayacata(GC)145

Casa deilMontai6s(T)197 Casa Lercaro(T)197 Casa Molina(T)205

Arucas(GC)137

Ayunぬ micnto(T)201 Aznat Jos6 Maria 32

Casゴ Museo de Co16n(GC)

Bttamar(T)200

125‐ 6

bananas 204

CasゴMuseo dc P6rez Gald6s

Bananera EI Guanche(T)203

(GC)126

Casas de Guinca(H)263

Bariovento(P)231

″′ σ ゐ″ α′ as 81 “ 53-4 cash Cぉ inas del Angcl(F)159

134 Barranco de l¨

Angust魅

227

(P)

Barranco de lぉ Nievcs(P)

222,225 Barranco dc Santiago (G) 254 BalTanco de!Inicino (T) 211 bars 82‐ basket、

Casino de Las Palmas(GC)127

o dela Luz(GC)37,127

Casti‖

8,90

Bencomo 18 Berrnidez,Juan 17 Bctancuria(F)158‐ 9 Blake,Admiral Robert 19 Bonnln,Franccsc Miranda 35

B`【,Ilica dc laヽ lrgcn

books 59‐

60 Buenavista dei None(T)208

Cttedral de S`m●

bullighting 92

125‐ 6 Convento dc Minnores c)

dcl

Pino(GC)36,136 Cttcdra:dc San Juan(GC) 137

Ana(GC)

175

Convento de San● C)atalina

Ca‖ e Mayor“ canlping 79

(T)205 En■ ita dc ia VirgQ、 4e!a

Trima(GC)126

Canary dogs 31 Cana:y palm(P力 ο ′ X ″α′ ′ 1,′ s)30 `″ `α `′ Candc!aria(T)217‐ 18 car&nlotorcycle travel 106‐ 11卜 13 renta1 106-7,112

C贅 :a de Co16n(G)36,242

Ca,a de Fonseca(T)205 Casa de la Aduana(T)201

(GC)126

1glcsia dc San Blas(P)234-5 1glcsia dc San Francisco(T)

191,201,205,208 1gicsia dc San Francisco(P)

225 1glesia de Sm Juan(GC)134 1glesia de San Juan Bautista

(P)230 del FaTobo(T)205 San Marcos

(T)207 1glesia de San Migucl

Arcangel e)234 1glesia de San Miguel de las

Victorias(T)197

Concepci6n de● ・ Bonan2a Ⅲ い 「 、 (P)232 E●nita de las Nieves(GC) 138

1gleSia de San SalVadOr(P)

Ennita de Nuestra Seiora de

1giesia de Sm● Ana(F)159 1gleSia dC Smta Catalina(T)

la Luz(P)223 7,

1glesia de San Alltonio Abad

1glesia‐ de

(L)175

Caleta de Fuste(F)160-1

los Rcmcdios(P)233

199

Convento de Santo lDomingo

25,219 Caleta(H)260

la Rcgia(F)160

1giesia dc San Juan IBautista

Convento de Santo I〕 )o:rlingo

Caldera de Taburiente(P)23,

la Concepci6n(GC)138

(T)199

COnVen“ dC Sanm clara(T)

Caldera de Bandama(GC)136

la Cmdelaria(F)153 1glesia de Nuestra Seiora de

205

cathedrals,churches&chapeis

Cala de Tacor6n(H)262

Cmdelaria(H)263 1glesia de Nucstra Sciora de

1glesia de San Agustin(T)

Castro,Maria 35

cafbs 82-8

(P)232 1glesia de Nuesti゛ I Seiora de

1glesia de Nuestra Sciora dc

Berbers 15

busking 79

Asunci6n(G)242

Cぉ ti‖ o

Bentor 18

business hours 73-4

Guadelupe(L)175

1glesia de laヽ ア irgen de la

1glesia dc Nuest:翅 I Seiora de a Pcia dc Francia(′ r)201 1glesia de卜 Jucstra Seiora de

225

bus trave1 110‐ 11

225 1gicsia de la Virgen de

Castino de la Vitten(P)225 C6tino de San Fe‖ pe(P)203 Castilio de San Gabriel(L)169 Castillo de Sar Jos6(L)170 Castillo de San Juan(T)37,192 de Santa Bな bara(L)175 CaStil10 de Santa Cata‖ na(P)

vare 94

bccr 90

259 1glesia de la Encamaci6n(P)

1glesia de la Virgen de la Luz

bargaining 56

Baranco de Guayadcque(GC)

36,191, 197,205

Ennita de San Amaro(T) 201

EImim de San Juan(T)201 Ernlita de San Pedro de

A!chtta c)159 Ennita dc San Scbastiin(G)

242

223 1gicsia de San Sebastiin

(GC)134 26,200

1glcsia de Santa MaH.a(F)

158 1gicsia de Santo[)oiningo

(T)197 1glesia dc Santo I)orningo

(G)247

270 1ndex Cathoncism 40-3

de Lugo,Alonso Ferilindez

cntcrtainrnent 90‐

18‐ 19,219,222,227

Centro Canario dc Artc

Modemo(GC)126

28

de Miranda,Juan 35

Centro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional de Garaり Onay(G)

248

de Quevedo,Gaspar 35

Est6vancz,Nicolis 37

dc Quintana,Crist6bal

exchange rates 52-3

Hernindez 35

expttriaに

s34

cerainics 94

de Sal`■ ,,Fernando

changing nloney 55-6

dc Unarnuno,Miguel 152

Fa」

Charco Verdc(P)234

dc Vega,Isaac 38

Famara(L)179

cheese 85

de Viera,Cristino 35

fauna 29-30

Chinida,Eduardo 152 Chipude 246

dc Vera,Pedro 18,117 de Vem y Clavijo,Jos6 37

faxes 58

Chirino,Martin 36

Dedo de Di6s(GC)138

chocolate 89

1)oigado,Fclix 38 deparェlre taxes 1 08 dialThoea 67

cigars 90,94-5,221,225,234 cinernas 90

Ciudad J″ din(GC)127 c:imate 25‐

lEst6vcz 35

Fleitas,PI`cido 36 ■ora 28‐ 9 books 59‐ 60 Flo口 n,Jean 166

diphtheria(54

Coalici6n Canaria 22,32 cochinea1 20,33 cockighting 93

disabled travellcrs 70,99‐

100

Coお

. Domingue2,Tinerfei0 0SCar

discos 90 docurnents 48‐ 50 dolphins 27‐ 8,252

(F)164‐ 5

Columbus,Christopher 19,122, “

239,244

16,29,207,254

lο

■)od 81‐ 8 books 60 vcgetarianism 84‐ 5

35 dngOn treC(D″ αCaι ″α″α

com■ lunications 56‐ 8 σο″?″ js`α ′ ´ ′s16-19

ardo,Jos6 Luis 35

たrries l1 3-15 ■estas 74‐ 5 nea makeヽ 93

DFa2,Cannen Lafbret 38

6,44

1

environnlental organisations

`ο

■)otba11 91-2,131,195 Fortaleza de San Miguel(T)

207 )

Fortaleza del・ Ilost6n(F)157 Franco,([〕

cncra:Francisco 21,

consulatcs 52

1)rake,Sir Francis 19,122,222

″ σο″′ α38 Co"al側 o(F)153‐ 7,154

drinks 88‐ 9

Frontera(H)263-4

driving licence 50 Drouet,Jean‐ 3aptiste 20 drugs 73

■lngal infections 66

Costa Cahna(F)162 Costa Teguise(L)174 costs 52‐ 3

credit cards 54-5

Crucc de EI Re」 o(G)246

122

Gabinete Literano(GC)126 G`ldar(GC)137‐ 8

Echedo(H)260

Gald6s,Benito P6rez 37

ecology 26‐8

Gaachico(T)207-8

Cmz de Tcjeda(GC)135-6

economy 33‐ 4

Gattonay(G)237

Cubo de la Galga(P)231 Cucva dc Beimaco(P)235

education 34

gay&lcsbian travc!:crs 69-70

EI Cabrito(G)242

Cucva de los Verdcs(L)176-7

EI CedЮ (G)248

geography 22‐ 3 geology 23‐ 5

EI Cercado(G)246 EI Charco(P)236

Cucva Don Justo(H)262 Cueva Pintada(GC)138

Giniginamar(F)161 15,83

gq/,ο

currency 52

EI Cotillo(F)157‐ 8

custorns 52 cycling 75, 113

El Garo6(H)261

go!f77‐8 (〕 onz`lez Mё ndez,Manue1 35

EI Golお (L)181, EI Golfb(H)262‐ 4

Gran Tな 可al(F)161 Grand CanaD′ Coa‖ ng

dangers 71‐ 3

EI M6dano(T)218 EI Paaim delぉ Aves(P)232

de 136thencourt,Jean 16‐ 17,

EI Pぉ o(P)232

119, 147,166,257 de B`ぬ encourt,Maciot 17

EI Pina(H)262 EI Sabinな (H)265 E:Sauzal(T)200

de Billancourt,Jean Pau1 222 de 13obadilla,Bcatri2 24 1

de HelTera,E)iego 17,241

Company 20 Gregorio,Eduardo 36 くuanches 13‐ 19 g“ α pο 30 ″ α Guar″ :oca(H)261 :〕

Guardafia 1 7

Guati“ (L)176

de lriarte,lloln4s 37

electricity 63 electronic riloncy 55

de la Cruz y R:os,Luis 35

Elysium 14

Guia dc lsora(T)211

dc la Salle,(:〕 adifer 16‐ 17,

lo:Te,Josenna de la・ 「

38

de la■ lorre,IN6stor Martin

Ferninde2 35, 126

119

(:〕

uayota 15

cmai1 58

Gじ lma(T)218

enlbass:es 50‐ 2

(〕

enlbroidery 94 eniergencies 72,73

uinleri,Ange1 38

Guinae(L)178 (:〕

ungunhana 21

271 1ndex IIades 15

history 149 1sia de Gran Canaria l17-45,

Haria(L)179 Hawkins,Sir John 166

118

hcalth 63-9 hca:th insurance(54 heat cxhaustion 66 heat stroke 66 hepatitis 64,67

accornrnodation l1 9 gctting around 119 raly l1 getting there&a、 、 history l1 7‐ 18,119‐ 22

1‐

Heredad de Aguas de Arucas y

Fittas(GC)137 Hermigua(G)247‐ 1‐

8

Iernloso,Manue1 33

los Reycs(H)264-5 La Galga(P)231 9

accoinnlodation 239 activities 238,252 getting around 239 getting tllere&a、 vay 239 history 237‐ 8,239 1sia dc,La lPa:ma 219‐ 36,220

hiking 75 history 1 3‐ 22,219

books 59

accorll■ lodation

1sia de E「 Hierro 255,257

activities 221

1sia de Fucnevcntura 146-7,

149 22

1sia de(3ran Canaria 119‐

1sia de la Gonlera 237-8,239

La Dehesa(H)264‐ 5 La Ennita de lヽ Iuestra Seiora de

■laps l18,123 1sia de La Gomera 237-54,230

Iercules 1 3, 14

La Dama(G)246

221-2

La Geria(L)180‐

1

La Laguna(T)196-9,198 La Laguna Grande(G)246 La L“ ita(F)161

La Matanza de Acen可 o(T)

200 La Matilla(F)152 La O‖ va(F)152‐ 3

La Orotava(T)205-7,206 La Palmita(G)249 La Pa“ d(F)16卜 2

La Restyinga(H)262

getting around 222 getting llere&aゃ vay 222 history 219-21 1sia dc lLanzarotc 166-84,167

La Santa(L)179‐ 80 La Victoria(T)200 La Za″ ac)231 lace 94

1sia de la lPainla 222

accorllnlodation 1 68

1sla de Lanzarotc 166-8,

geting`round 168

Laganario(H)263 Lago Maniinez(T)201

getting there&away 168

Laguna de Barlovento(P)231

history 166‐ 8

1anguage 40-3

168‐

9

1sla de lc lPainla 219-21 1sia dc′ 「lcncriib 1 85-6, 188,

196-9

Isia de Lobos(F)157 1sia de Montaia Ciara

hitching l13

ls!a de.Ilenerife 1 85‐

HIV&AIDS 68

1anguage courses 78, 127,

(L)178 21 8,186

accoinnlodation 1 87

Horncr 13 honey 94-5

activities 1 86‐

1=Iospitalito dc la Santisima

gctting there&away 187

Trinidad(T)205 カοsra′

history 1 85‐ 6 ●laps 186 1sia Graciosa(L)178

1

hostel `s80‐ card 50 hotels 80‐

7

getting around 1 87-8

1

Hoya de!IMbrci‖ o(H)261-2

1sora(H)261 1VA 33,56

hydrofoiis l15

Jameos del Agua(L)176‐ 177 Jardin Botinico(T)203 Jardin Botinico Canarioヽ ′ iera

Icod dc losヽ ′ inos(T)207

1cor(T)218 1GIC 33,56,81

y Clavijo(CC)127

1ngenio(GC)134 1nstituto de Astro■ sica dc

Canaria 229 1nternet 58,60

1sia de Alegranza(L)178 1sia de El Hierro 255-65,256 accornnlodatiく )n257

geting around 257

geting there&away 257 history 255 1sia de Fuerteventura 146‐ lZ卜

65,

8

accornrnodation 147 geting around 147‐ 9 gcting the“ &away 147

192 Las C“ as(H)262

Las Ganetas(T)216-17 L¨ Montanetas(H)261 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (GC)119‐ 33,120‐ 1 activities 127

enに ■ainment 130-1

geting around 133 geming the“ &away places to eat 129-30 placcs to stay 128-9

L^Play“ (H)260 Las Puntas(H)263

Lぉ Rosas(G)248-9 Las Salinas de Janubio(L)181

Jadin dc las Hcsp6ridcs(GC) 137 Jardin de los Cactus(L)176 Jedey(:P)236

:aundry 63

Jctlag 67 jetbils l15 Joncs,Sir Al■ ed Lewis 20,122 Juba I1 14

liquor 94‐ 5

Juego de Bolas(G)246 ノ″ d′ ′ ρ ο92 `ノ "ο Kё hler,Woltang 188

La Ampuyenta(F)159 La Benchijigua(G)254

132-3

1aure:s29,237,245 !eC:erc,Pegleg 166 1ichen 29 1itcratu“ 37‐ 9

:ocal transport l15‐ 16

LoЮ Parquc(T)203 Los Canarios de lFuencaliente (P)235‐ 6 Los Canca」 os(P)227

Los Los Los Los

Cristianos(T)211-16,213 Gigantes(T)211 Hcwidcros(L)18: Letreros(H)262

272 1ndex Los L:ani:los(11)264 Los Llanos dc Aridane(P) 232‐ 4,236,233

Los Organos(G)249‐ 50,252

Morro Jab!o(F)162‐ 4,163

Moya(GC)137 mummies 16

Mlu:phtt Ricardo 37

Los Sabandeios 38

Necr6po‖ sde G」

dar(GC)138

Nelson,Adrniral Horatio 1 9,

20 newspapers 60-1 nightc!ubs 90

Los Sauces(P)231 Los Tilos(P)231

Casa de:os Pttronos(GC) 136

nutrition 65

Lucha Clanarla 92

Casa Museo de 13etancuria

0'Donnc‖ ,Leopoldo 193

c)158

nlagazines 60‐

Casa Museo de Unamuno(F)

1

Malocello,Lanzaro■ o16,166 Ma!pais de la Corona(L)176-7

Malp6o(H)263

″α′ ναsね (Malmscy winc)181, 221 Manriquc,C6sar 35, 166,170,

174, 176,178,179,201 maps 44-5, 111 l Canaria l18,123 1sia de Lanzarotc 169

た ,186, 189

■larinc life 30

Mariposario del Drago(T)207 Masca(T)210‐ ll

125 Cas`ノヽ 4useo de Morales

opera 130

(GC)137 Cas″ fusco de P6rcz Gald6s

(GC)126

Modcmo(GC)126

176 Museo Agricola El P江 io(L) 179

Mazo(P)234‐

Museo de Arqueologia(P)

225

Mcriga(G)249

Museo de Ane(T)208

Minor Canaries(L)177‐ 8

Msco dc A● e Sacro c)158

Mirador de Abrante(G)248 Mirador de Bascos(H)265 Mimdor de Don Martin(T)218

Musco dc Bc‖ as Artcs(T) 190 Museo de Ciencias Naturales

Mirador dc lsora(H)261

y Pintum(P)225

MiradOr dc Jinama(H)261

Mseo de Etnograna(P)225

Mirador de la Caldera de

Musco dc la Cicncia y El

Taburicnte(P)228,230 Mirador de la Cumbrecita(P)

230 Mindor de la P″ (T)203

Mindor de la Peia(H)261 Mindor de Mo“ o Velosa(F) 159

Mirador de Time(P)232 Mirador del Rlo(L)178 Mirador Lo:1lo de las Chozas

(P)230 Mocanal(H)261

Mog`n(GC)145 money 52‐6

Mon● ia de Tindaya(F)152 Montaias de!Fuego(1.)22,31, 179‐ 80

Monumento al Campesino(L)

CoSmOS(T)199 Musco dc la Historia de Teneriた (T)197 Museo de lalヽ Jaturaleza y EI

Homb“ (T)189 Museo de Panchi‖ o(H)262 Museo dcl Enligrantc

Canario(L)175 M:usco Dioccsano(GC)125 lusco lntcrnacional de Arte

Contemporineo(L)170

Museo Lc6n y C“ ti‖ o(GC) 134 Museo Militar de Alineyda

(T)190 Musco Naval(P)225 Museo N`stor (GC) 126

music 38‐ 39,91, 130, 131

176

Monz6n,Felo 35 Morales,Tomお 38

lζ

(:)rarnas,I)orningo ltodriguez

38

0mmas,Jorge 35 0rcJls dcl Asno(F)146 organised tours 108‐

9,116

0rzola(L)177

EI Griお Museo del Vino(L)

Maspalomぉ (GC)139-43,140 Maxwe‖ ,Robett 217 nledical kits 64

228,229 0nis,｀ olanda Soler 38

MIsco Arquco16gico(L)169 Musco Arqueo16gico(T)201 Mluseo Canario(GC)126

5

Roque de los Muchachos(P)

Casa/Musco dc Co16n(GC)

Centro Canarlo de Ane

1sia de Gr`■

1sla de・ Ileneri〔

149

0bsciwatorio Astroflsico dcl

nature reservcs 27 Mα gα ″οB″ ″αα″」16

package tous 108-9 Padr6n, Antonio 35 painting 34‐ 5

Pttara(F)160 Palacio de Herrera y Ro」 as(L)

175 Palacio dc Salazar(P)223 Palacio Spino:a(1′

)175

αdο ´ ′ s80-1 ρα″ Parquc Arquco16gico dcl

Bentayga(GC)135-6 Parque dc Ga“ (a Sanabria(T) 192 Parque Eco!6gico Las Aguilas

del Teide(T)216 Parque Nacional de GaraJOnay ((〕

)23,29,31,237,245-7

Parquc Nacional dc la Caldcra de・ 「 aburiente(P)31,227-8

Parque Nacional dc las(〕 aiadas

del Teide(T)31,208-10 Parquc Nacional de l・inlanfaya

(L)22,31,179-80 Parquc Natural dc Coralc」

Lobos(F):53

Oy

Parquc Natural dc MaJona(G)

248 Parque Taoro(T)203 PanidO Popular 22,32 PanidO sOcialista obrerO

Espaio!22,32 passpo■ s48 Peninsula de Jandia(F)161‐

′ s,ο ″ `′ `s80‐ pcoplc 34 Pcraza,(〕 uili`n17 Pcraza,IIcrnin 239,241 1

5

273 1ndex P6re2,JOS6 Luり petrol l12 `n35 photography 61‐ 2

Pue■ o dc la Cruz(P)200-5,

202 Pucno de la Est∝ a(H)260 Pue■ o de la peia(F)160

Pico BeJenado(P)230 Pico de la Nieve(P)230 Pico de la Zarza(F)146 Pico del Tleide(T)23,25,185,

208,209,229 Piscinas de Fttana(P)231 planning 44‐ 5

Pue■ o

de Mogin(GC)144-5

Santa Cn12 de la Palma(P)

Pucrto dc]ヽ laos(P)234 Pucl“ o de Santiag。 (T) 211

222‐

history 222

(F)165

Piaya de Echevcntive(P)235 Playa de la Garita(L)176 Playa dc la Ltta((〕

places to cat 226 places to stay 225‐ 6

geting′ ound 152-3

Playa de 13ariovcnto de Jandia

C)127

Playa de la RaJita(G)246 Playa dc ias AIcaravaneras

(GC)127

Playa dc lぉ Am`ricas(T)

『there&away 150‐ 2 getting

7,224

geting around 227 geting there&a'way 226-7

PuemO del cannen (L) 181 151

Playa Blanca(L)183

Santa CruZ de Teneri偽

places to eat 150

188-96,190

places to stay 150

geting around 196

Pueno Rico(GC)143-4 Punta dc Jandia(F)164 Punta de Tleno(T)208 Punta del Hidalgo(T)200 Punぬ dcl Papagayo(L)183‐ 4 Puntallana(P)230‐ 1

16,213

(T)

gcting there&away 195-6 history 1 88 p!aces to eat 194 Places to stay 192‐ 4 Santa Lucia dc Tirttana(GC) 134-5

Smta Marfa de Guia(GC)137

Playa dc las Arenas Blancas

(H)264

Playa de las Canteras(GC)127 Playa de los Nogales(P)230 P!aya de San Marcos(・「 )207

Playa de Santiago(G)237, 253‐ 4 Playa del lng16s((〕 C)139‐ 43,

140 Playa del Rcd“ to(L)170 Playa dei VeЮ

Santa Brigida(GC)136 Santa Catalina(GC)127

Pueno dcl Rosario (F) 149-52,

Pi江 o13

211‐

Puerto de las Nieves(GC)138

placcs to cat 243

places to stay 242-3 sangria 90

dal(H)264

Plaza dc Espaia(P)223 PlaZa de la Constituci6●

207

(T)

Plaza dcl Charco(T)201 police 72 polio 64

rabics 68 radio 61

Santiago del Teidc(T)210

Santo Domingo dc Garaia(P)

Raleigh,Sir Walter 166 Rc」 6n,Juan

religion 40‐

17,117,122

231‐ 2 Santuario de laヽ rirgcn de las

Nieves(P)227

3

´ ′9″ ′ ″′ ο38 restaurants 82-8 road rules lll

Roque Bentayga(GC)135 Roque Can。 (G)249

Roque dc las Bodegas(T) 200 Roque dc los Muchachos(P)

23,219,228,230 Roque del Estc(L)178 Roque de1 0cstc(L)178

Sanz Cana,Vialentin 35 sculpturc 35-7 sca trave1 1 07‐ 8 Within the Canaies l13-15 senior travcllcrs 70

SeXually transmitted discascs 68

shopping 93-5 si:k94 s:avcry 16,19,257 Spanish Civil Wlar 21 spo■ 91-5

Roque Nublo(GC)136

St 13rendan 16

Poole,John 166

Roques de Garcia(T)209-10 Roques dc Salmor(H)261

strelitzia 28

population 34

Ruta de los Volcancs(L)180

poiitics 3 1-3

Poris de Abona(T)218 post 56-8

Sabinosa(H)264

student cards 50

sugar cane 19,28,33, 185,221 sunburn 67

Pozo de la Aguada(G)242

sailing 76-7

Pozo de la Salud(lH)264

Tacorontc(T)200

San Andr6s(T)199-200, San Andr6s(P)231 San Andr6s(H)261

Taganana(T)200

Pozo dc Las Calcosas(H)261 Pozo dc las Nieves(GC)136 P020 NegЮ (F)161 pregnancy 69

prickly heat 67 Ptolerny 255 pub:ic holidays 74

San BanolomO(L)176 San Bartolomё

de TiraJana

(GC)135

Tlahiche(L)174-5

Taibiquc(H)262 Ta‖ er de Anesania(P)235

Tamaduste(H)260

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Ilanausl 1 8,221,227

San Nicolis(P)236

Taraり

San Sebastiin de la Gomem(G)

Tlaro de Tlahichc(L)174-5,

aleJo(F)161

Pucblo Canario(GC)126

239-45,240

Pueblo lParquc La Palma

getting around 245

179 taxes 56,81

(P)233 Pueno Calcro(L)183

gCting there&away 243‐ 5

taxis l13, l15-16

history 239

Tazaconc(P)234

274 1ndex T″:o(G)250

tourist()1肝ices 47‐

Teatro GuimeM(T)191

●avel insurance 50

Tefa(F)152 Tegui“ o175‐ 6

Vilanor(T)218

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voicemai1 58 ｀ ￨`oicin San Antonio (P)235

Triana(GC)125‐ 6 Tuinele C)lω TV 61

volcanoes 23-5

TeЮ r(GC)136‐ 7 tetanus 64,68

Uga 181

water 27

Tetir c)152

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Temisas(GC)134

MOICin・Ileneguia(P) 235 volleybal1 92

von Buch,Leopold 228

llenesor Senlidan 18,117

theR 71‐ 3

Tiagua(L)179

■gaぬy(H)263

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whale 27‐ 8,214,252

de Gran Rey(G)237, 246,250-3,251

Va‖ chennoso(G)249

whistling language 41,238 windsuring 75‐ 6 winc 19,33,89‐ 90

Valverde(H)257‐ 60,2“

wonten travellers 69

getting around 260

women's hea:th 69

time 62‐ 3

getting there&away 259‐ 60

woodwork 94

tiinesharing 81

history 257

work1 78‐ 9

Timijiraquc(ID 260 ″″P々 38,94

places tc)eat 259

Tijara■

Tindaya(F)152

Tiscamanita(F)159‐ 60 toneも 63

places to stay 259

Vega dc San Maに o(GC)136 Vega dcl Rfo de Palmas(F)

159

Toπ e del Conde(G)37, 241

Veguem(GC)125-6

Ъ ¨ s,Agttin Millaes 37 Tolriani,Leonardo 37 tourism 21‐ 2,26‐ 7

vehicle papers 50

Ve:a Latina Can″ ia 93 video 61‐ 2

Yaiza(L)181

Ybana(G)241 yellow iever 64 youth cards 50 youth hostels 80

Zoo Parque de los Camelos(F) 161

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THE LONEEY PLANET STORY Lonely Planet pub‖ shed iも first book ln 1973 in

Юsponseわ he numeЮ us`How did you do n?'questions Maureen and

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Oss Asa Oη hθ O力 eaρ became an instant local

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Eighteen monthsin South‐ EastAsia resuLed h theirsecond guide,力 in a backstreet Chinese hotelin lSingapore in 1975 The`ye‖ the wo‖ d,soon became ttθ guide to he ctaining tt fam‖ iar ye‖ ow coven

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Whichthey pu■

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