The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen: classic family recipes for celebration and healing 9781439142561, 1439142564, 0684847396, 9780684847399

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T he W i s d o m of t h e

C h in ese K it c h en C l a s s i c F a m i l y Recipes f o r Celebration and Healing

G race Young Photography by A lan R ichardson

US. $2

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he Wisdom o f the Chinese Kitchen, w ith it» recipes culled fro m a lifetim e o f fam ily m eals ____________ and cu lm an- in stru ctio n , is m uch m ore th an a co o k b o o k . It is a d au g hters tribute— a c o lle ctio n o f per­ sonal m em ories o f the philosophy and su p erstitions behind culinary trad ition s that have been passed dow n through her C a n to n ese fam ily, in w hich each in g red ient h as its ow n sin g u la r im p o rta n c e , th e p re p a ra tio n o f a m eal is p art o f the jo y o f life, and the prop er creation o f a dish can have a favorable influence o n health and g oo d fortu n e. ILach chapter begins w ith its ow n engaging story, o fferin g insight in to the C hinese beliefs that surround life-enh ancin g and spiritually calm ing m eals. In ad d itio n, personal fam ily p h o ­ tograp h s illustrate these sto n es and capture the sp in t o f C h in a befo re the R ev olu tion , when Y o u n g ’s fam ily lived in C a n to n , Shanghai, and I lo n g Kong. T h e first part. ‘‘M asterin g the Fundam entals." provides in stru ctio n o n the a rts o f steam ing and stir-fryin g : the preparation o f n e e. p an fn ed . and braised dishes: the proper selection o f p ro d u ct: and the fine arts o f ch oppin g and slic­ ing. Part Tw o. “T h e A rt o f C eleb ratio n ." co n cen trates on the m ore elaborate, co m p lex, and m eaningful dishes— such as Shark's F in S o u p and W est 1-ake D u ck — that are usually nu d e with rare ingredients, and sweets such as W ater C h estnu t C ake and Sesam e Halls. T h e final part. "A chieving Y in-Y ang Harmony."' explores the mam- C hinese beliefs about the healing p ro p erties o f ginseng, g in g k o nuts, sox beans. Jong qu*i, and the m any vegetable and fru it soup preparations that balance and nourish th e body. T he sto n es and i bin e to d em onstrate the range o f C an to n ese co« I

rich flavors and honored co m b in atio n s t o a n o n cia tio n o f health, w ell-being, and prospentv. ( t c n l i n u t J

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Allen County Pufclic Library 900 Webster Street PO Box 2270 Fort Wayne, IN 46801-2270

S IM O N & S C H U S T E R E D IT IO N S R o cke fe lle r C enter 1230 Avenue o f the Am ericas N e w Y o rk. N Y 10020 C o p yrig h t © 1999 by G race Young A ll rights reserved, including the right o f reproduction in w h o le or in part in any form. S I M O N & S C H U S T E R E D I T I O N S and co lophon arc trademarks o f S im o n & Schuster Inc.

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M A N U F A C T U R E D IN T H E U N I T E D ST A T E S O F A M E R I C A

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Young. Grace T h e wisdom o f the C hinese kitchen : classic fam ily recipes for celebration and healing / G race Young, p.

cm.

Includes index. 1. Cookery. Chinese. T X 7 2 4 .5 .C 5 Y 5 9 8

I. Title.

1999

641.5951— dc21

98-48815 C IP

I S B N 0-684-84739-6

A ll photographs by Alan R ichardson except for the photographs o n pages 17.29.153.155. 157.159.161, and 163 by Lisa Ko cn m g .an d o n pages xix. 3 .2 0 .3 3 .4 7 .7 3 .1 0 0 . 105.123.140, 170.191. and 226 from the Y oung and Fu n g fam ily collection.

F o r M a m a and B a b a

a n d , o f c ours e, M ich a e l

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Ancestor worship has been a tradition in C hin a for thousands o f years. Its practice is based on the b elief that homage to one’s ancestors recognizes their influence on one’s existence. I have thought countless times that this cookbook is a modern-day act o f filial piety. For in trying to record the recipes and fam ily stories from m y parents, aunties, and uncles. I honor our past for future generations. I wish to acknowledge the rich legacy not just o f m y grandparents or greatgrandparents but o f those relatives no longer w ith us. T h e list to w hom I am indebted for their help and instruction in crafting this book is a long one. I offer m y deep-felt thanks to the follow ing fam ily and friends and so m any m ore: 1 w ould like to thank first and foremost Mam a and Baba for this book owes its existence solely to them. T h ey have bestowed upon me an enorm ous gift, answering questions, teaching me, and searching for inform ation on m y behalf. 1 know this project has been exhausting for m y parents, and I thank them for their m any sacri­ fices. T h e publication o f this book coincides w ith their fiftieth anniversary, and I intend this as a fitting and auspicious tribute to them. I am deeply indebted to m y aunties and uncles w ho have shared recipes, generously taught their secrets for hom e cooking, recounted fam ily stories and imparted their wisdom to me: Sam uel Fung, w ho read the stories and provided valuable insights. 1 am thankful for his patience in translating the Cantonese and his efforts to educate me in Chinese culture. Katheryn Lou ie, w ho m eticulously read the stories, confirm ed the Chinese characters, and offered her expert counsel. Margaret Lee, w ho gave the book its Chinese name and advised on m any questions. Anna K w o ck . whose unconditional support and encouragement is always a blessing. Auntie L ily (M rs. K . L. W o o ), w ho shared her wise expertise in Chinese cooking. L ily and Philip W o o . w ho taught me so m any o f their recipes and w illin g ly answered m y m any questions. M any thanks to Young S h e e jc w (Y ee G u M a), Donald and Lulu Young, Elaine H o , Herbert and Ivy Fung. H elen Fung, Bertha Je w , W illia m and Lillian Je w . R o y and B e tty Y im , Sherman and Frances Young, Shirley Je w , and C a lvin and Bernice Jew . M any thanks to m y cousins w ho have been so helpful: Fred “ M aq u ire" C h o w , whose cncouragm cnt and incredible b elief in this book made an enorm ous difference. Katherine Je w Lim , whose willingness to help in any w ay and friendship have always been a treasure.

C in d y Je w Fun. w ho supported this project from the beginning, sharing her recipes and answering m y incessant questions. W ith thanks to Sylvia Je w C h o w , Jeanette W ong, Loretta Lee Seeley, G loria Lee, and C raig M orita. And to D o ric Y im Song w ho wanted to contribute more. Special thanks to m y grandmother. Fung Tong Lai Lan, and m y brother Douglas Young. Y u Zhen C hen M e i taught me incredible lessons beyond cooking. It was a privilege to leam to shop and to cook by her side. She was a fountain o f wisdom and culinary knowledge and I shall always treasure our sessions together. I have been blessed to have m any friends w ho offered their expertise in this cookbook: This book began w ith the beautiful images m y dear friend Alan Richardson photographed during m y fam ily’s Chinese N e w Year’s celebration. T h e photographs were the inspiration that helped me to visualize the possibility o f this becom ing a cookbook. M y profound thanks to Alan for contributing his artistry' and genius. I am grateful to have Jan ice Easton as m y editor. W ith her partially Chinese soul she has understood this book from the beginning. Heartfelt thanks for m aking this book a reality through her outstanding editorial guidance. M artha Kaplan, m y agent, recognized the potential o f this book in its “ raw ” proposal stage and helped me to refine the proposal and find the perfect editor. Special thanks to Laura C erw inskc, w ho gave invaluable advice and critique to the stories, and helped m e to find m y w ritin g voice. Kate Slate, w ho was instrumental in getting the recipes in shape (and to Ju lic n for m aking this possible). E vie Righter, whose insightful feedback and masterful guidance helped to elevate this book. M y deepest gratitude for her exacting eye in reading the recipes and stories. Liz Trovato, w ho created the exquisite cover design and has been an incredible friend throughout. I am ever appreciative. R a y Furse, for bringing the book to Frankfurt w hen I was close to giving up. and for his graciousness in always answering m y questions on all things Chinese. Lisa Koenig, for her generosity in rephotographing m y fam ily’s old photographs and for the exceptional how-to photographs. D r. Jacqueline N ew m an, w ho has been a wonderful friend to call upon for her expertise in Chinese cooking and w ho provided some o f the nutritional inform ation on Chinese vegeta­ bles. I am grateful for the existence o f her publication Flai\ir and Fortune, whose purpose is to further the advancem ent o f the science and art o f Chinese cuisine. Pamela Thom as, for her encouragement and help in w riting the proposal at the beginning.

vii

Special thanks to Kam Toa M iu and Professor Luke Hongzhi Yang. L .A c., for their con­ sultation on Chinese herbs. Special thanks to A rt D irectors K aty R ic g e l and Jack ie Scow , Production Ed ito r Philip M etcalf. Sen ior Production M anager Peter M c C u llo ch , and Publicist M a ry Ellen Briggs for their help and guidance. Generous thanks to: Stevie Bass. Barbara C han. G race C h o i, G erald Couzens, N e il C ru m ley, Andrea D iN o to , Alex Fatalevich. C hris and Jim D i Filippo, Larry Frascella, R o d n ey Friedm an. Jo a n G olden, Scott H u n t. Z in a Jasper, Tom Keane. H . T. K in g . K athy Farrel Kings­ ley. Teresa Lam . Alessandra M ortola, Brad Paris, K im Park. M arjorie Poore. Elizabeth R ic e , Linda Russo. Bon nie Slotnick, Ju lia Stambules, Susie and P. C . Tang, R ich ard F. Tin g , and B e tty Tsang. W ith thanks to everyone at Vertigo Design for the brilliant interior design. Thanks to D avid G oodrich at B ird Track Press for the Chinese calligraphy. A nd last, but not least, to m y husband. M ichael W iertz . w ho has been supportive throughout, taking endless walks to C h in ato w n , tasting every dish, good-naturedly doing the dishes, and m aking perceptive suggestions to the m anuscript. It has been a long road, and I thank him for teaching me that patience is everything. W ords cannot adequately express m y thanks and ap­ preciation. In m em ory o f R u th O ppenheim er W eiss and Scott Frederick R ik lin . Y o u r light still shines brightly.

viii

Introduction

xii

Notes to the Reader

xvi

Remember China. Nan Chung

Steam ed R *e 7

Flavored Sweet R jc c 8

Tender Beef on Rice 12

Ch 3

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My cousins Jeanette. Loretta, and Gloria have fond memories of making rice dumplings, tong yuen. with my Auntie Margaret when they were children.The dumplings can be made without any filling at all or filled with a small slab of brown candy, which is a type of Chinese sugar. Another simple filling is this one: fragrant wok-roasted peanuts ground with sugar. This sweet, filled dumpling is enjoyed as an afternoon snack or as a dessert. Read the intro­ duction for Savory Rice Dumplings (page 16) for special dough instructions.

Heat a small w ok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smok­ ing. Add peanuts and stir-fry 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium, ■/>cup raw, skinless peanuts, a b o u t 2 ou n ces '/« cup sugar 2 cups glu tin o u s ric e flour, plus ad d itio n al fo r kneading

and stir-fry 3 to 5 minutes, or until peanuts are golden and fragrant. C ool thoroughly. P la c e

the cooled peanuts in a m ini-food processor and process un­

til finely ground but not to the peanut-butter stage. 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add sugar and process 5 seconds, or just until combined. P la c e

the rice flour in a large bowl. Make a w ell. Add about V* cup

boiling water and stir until w ell combined. Lightly dust your hands w ith rice flour and gently work the mixture for a few seconds at a time, as the mixture w ill be very hot. to form a dough. If the dough is dry, add more boiling water a tablespoonful at a time. Knead un­ til dough is smooth, slightly sticky, and still hot to the touch, about 1 to 2 minutes. D ust

hands w ith additional flour and divide dough in half. R o ll each

half into a thick rope, about 12 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. C ut the ropes into 1-inch pieces to make a total o f about 24 pieces. Loosely cover the dough w ith a kitchen towel to prevent it from drying out. R o ll each piece into a ball and flatten to make a scant Vi-inch-thick 2-inch round. Using thumbs and index fingers from both hands, pleat edges o f the dough to form a small cup (photo 1. page 17). Place cup in palm o f your hand and use your index finger to gently press dough into your palm on all sides o f cup to create a smooth, even surface, making the dough even thinner (photo 2. page 17). Spoon about 1 teaspoon o f the ground peanut mixture into the cup, using a '/«-teaspoon measure. (A larger spoon w ill not fit into the cup.) G ently pack the filling down. Gather the edges o f dough over

18

the filling and again pleat until hole is about Vi inch in diameter (photo 3, page 17). Squeeze together the dough, pressing to seal dough securely (photo 4. page 17). R o ll between palms to form a ball. Loosely cover w ith a kitchen towel and continue making more cups and filling them w ith the peanut mixture. You w ill have about / cup o f peanut mixture left over. Set it aside. In a 2'/4-quart saucepan, bring 1Zi quarts o f cold water to a boil over high heat. Add half the dumplings, return to a boil, and cook, gen­ tly stirring to separate, until the dumplings float to the surface. G en­ tly turn the dumplings over and over until they are fat and plump, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to individual bowls with a little o f the cooking liquid and sprinkle w ith reserved peanut mixture. Repeat with the remaining dumplings and serve immediately. M ak es 24 dum plings. S e rv e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m e al.

19

THE

BREATH

OF A W O K

A

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speak about wok hay, the breath o f a w ok. N o m atter w hether he is in a restaurant or his ow n hom e, when a stir-fried dish comes to the table, the sight o f the heat rising from the food always causes him to smile and say, "A h h h , ivok hay.” I kn ow that m any people dislike Bib» Canton. China, circa 1935

piping-hot food and prefer their food to cool before eating it. but most Chinese are just the opposite— the hotter, the better. Wok hoy is not sim ply hot food; it’s that elusive seared taste that on ly lasts for a m inute or tw o. It reminds m e o f the difference between food just o ff the grill

20

and grilled food that has been left to sit. Wok hay occurs in that special m om ent w hen a great ch ef achieves food that nearly, but not quite, burns in the m outh. For the Chinese, if the dish doesn’t have the prized taste o f the w o k ’s aroma, it isn’t an authentic stir-fry. As a child. I clearly understood that w hen dinner was announced there was no excuse for tardiness. It was totally unacceptable to explain that you wanted to sec the last five minutes o f a television show, finish a phone conversation, or even do a few m ore minutes o f hom ew ork. H o t food was serious business, and the idea o f missing the wok hay was unthinkable. T h e dishes were choreographed for com pletion at the m om ent w e sat at the table and the piping-hot rice arrived. I always im agined wok hay as a special life force that, w hen consum ed, provided us w ith extra energy, hay. Som e readers m ay be fam iliar w ith the M andarin w ord for hay, w h ich is qi, as 111 qigong. Q i (pronounced “ chee” ) is the Chinese concept o f vital energy that flows through the body. W h e n m y parents entertained, they cooked in tandem, bringing out each dish as it was stir-fried. Douglas and I w ere left to “ entertain" the guests, and I recall thinking how uncom ­ fortable w e and our Am erican friends felt. O u r guests seemed m ore intent on socializing and, although they enjoyed the food, they couldn't com prehend m y parents’ refusal to eat one morsel until all the food was on the table. It puzzled them to see m y parents cook one dish at a tim e, disappearing into the kitchen and not sitting until everything was done. W h e n Chinese friends came over, how ever, they w ould agree, after politely refusing to eat, that sacrificing the u>ok hay was inappropriate and they w ould gladly eat dish by dish w ith gusto. Forgoing their ow n enjoym ent o f wok hay was m y parents' gift to their guests. Even today, w henever m y fam ily attends a Chinese banquet, 1 can guarantee that shortly after the dinner m y parents w ill com m ent first on the crispness o f the Peking duck, then on the am ount o f shark's fin in the shark's fin soup (versus the filler ingredients), and. finally, on the wok hay o f the stir-fried dishes. Later the same evening, the critique w ill continue by telephone w ith a few o f m y uncles and aunts. T h e discussion w ill be brief, but no one in the fam ily can resist com m enting on the quality o f the food. I f the dishes w ere outstanding, then the evening was mem orable. I have heard m y fam ily fondly recall meals from years ago w here the shark's fin was extra thick or abalonc was prepared particularly w ell. Baba likes to sit closest to the kitchen w hen w e go to a restaurant, especially for dim sum. T h is w ay, he can get the freshest food the m om ent it leaves the kitchen. If there is no table available near the kitchen. M am a w ill occasionally ask one o f us to go to the dim sum cart as it emerges to retrieve the pipinghot food ourselves. W h y w ait for the lifeless food that arrives by the tim e the waitress makes her w ay to us? M y U n cle Sam rem inds m e that the fam ily still laments the change in w hat was once a favorite restaurant. T h e establishment was so successful that it expanded to three floors, m oving the kitchen to the basement. Sam e chefs, same cooking technique, but now the wok hay had disappeared, because the distance between the kitchen and the dining area was too far for the "b reath " to last.

21

T o achieve* wok hay, it is necessary to learn a few secrets o f successful stir-frying. Stir-frying, like sauteing, is cooking bite-sized pieces o f m eat or vegetables in a small am ount o f o il over high heat for a b rief period o f tim e. Stir-frying, especially, requires keeping the food in con­ stant m otion, tossing it w ith a metal spatula, to ensure that everything cooks evenly and quickly, preserving the vitam ins and vibrancy o f the ingredients. T h e w ok must be sufficiently hot for the food to sizzle vigorously the m om ent it hits the oil. T h e ingredients must be dry. espe­ cially the vegetables. I f there is any w ater left clinging to them after washing, the o il w ill splatter w hen the vegetables are added, and then they w ill steam, rather than stir-fry. Fo r this reason. M am a washes vegetables early in the day to allow tim e for them to dry. It’s best to have all the ingredients at room tem perature and everything cut into uniform pieces to ensure the same cooking tim e. Som e dishes, like Baba’s Stir-Fried Butterfly Fish and Bean Sprouts (page 28) or Stir-Fried Squid (page 30). must cook in ve ry small quantities because the hom e stove cannot produce the same am ount o f heat as a restaurant w ok. C ro w d in g food in the w ok re­ quires m ore heat and longer cooking tim e and results in braised food rather than stir-fried food. M y parents do not use a w ok for stir-frying. T h e y use an old fourteen-inch Farberware skillet or an eight-inch-wide, four-inch-deep metal pot that protects them from o il splatters. T h e traditional w ok used in C h in a was cast-iron, preferred because it adds iron to food and con­ ducts heat w ell. Chinese cast-iron woks can be purchased in some cookw are shops in C h in a­ tow n; they are thinner and lighter in w eight than W estern cast-iron pans. Today carbon-steel woks are m ore com m on; each tim e food is stir-fried the w ok becomes seasoned, as the ingre­ dients and oil leave a delicate varnish on the w o k ’s surface. U n lik e a cast-iron skillet that sim ­ ply becomes black w ith use. a carbon-steel w ok develops a rich mahogany patina after about six months o f regular use. A well-seasoned cast-iron or carbon-steel w ok is a Chinese c h e f s most treasured utensil, for the m ore you use it, the m ore it becomes like a nonstick pan, requiring less and less o il for stir-frying. Be sure never to use a well-seasoned w ok for steaming, as the w a­ ter w ill strip the w ok o f its seasoning. T h e im portant advice here is that fancy equipm ent is not necessary to stir-fry. Choose a tw elve- to fourteen-inch skillet that conducts heat evenly on high heat, or a fourteen-inch flat-bottomed cast-iron, carbon-steel, or stainless-steel w ok. (See photo, page 244.) N eve r use a nonstick or an electric w ok. It’s dangerous to heat most nonstick pans on high heat, and electric woks do not generate enough heat; w ithout adequate heat the food cannot properly stir-fry. Also avoid the traditional round-bottom ed w ok popular in restau­ rants. because it is impossible to heat sufficiently on a household stove. A gas stove is always preferable to an electric one because the heat level can be regulated instantaneously; how ever, for years, m y parents successfully cooked on an electric stove. T h e tim e-honored w ay o f seasoning a new cast-iron w ok is to wash it w ith m ild soap, rinse, and let dry. W arm the w ok and lightly grease it w ith vegetable oil. Place in a 300-degree oven and season 40 minutes. T o season a carbon-steel w ok. wash it in m ild, soapy, hot water to rem ove the protective coating o f oil from the factory. D ry the w ok thoroughly before heat­

22

ing it over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add tw o tablespoons o f vegetable o il and stirfry a bunch o f Chinese chives, gul choy, and discard the vegetables after cooking. This onion­ like vegetable m iraculously rem oves the m etallic taste from the w ok. Wash the w ok in hot w ater and never use soap again. Be sure to dry it thoroughly. T o wash a cast-iron or carbonsteel w ok after cooking, soak the w ok in hot w ater or rice w ater (see “ T h e M eaning o f R ic e ,” page 3), then wash w ith a soft bristle brush. Scrub it w ell, as any excess food or o il left in the w ok w ill becom e rancid w ith tim e. In m y ow n fam ily, the level o f cooking tension escalates as the stir-frying begins. I always think o f the Cantonese as the Italians o f the Far East, and cooking certainly brings out their “ M editerranean" em otions. Voices rise as the drama o f the cooking perform ance commences. M y parents cook w ith a high degree o f difficulty, ranked for O lym p ic com petition. Som etim es I w ill cringe at the possible dangers. T h e ir Chinese slippers offer no protection from hot spills, and Baba, w ho always wears a sports jacket, is equally form ally attired w hen he cooks. O n e parent w ill precariously carry the steamer o f boiling w ater from the stove to the sink, w hile the other stir-fries, often leaning over the front gas burner to tame a pot on the back burner. T h e ir voices rise w ith urgency as they react to the demands o f each m om ent, against the backdrop o f the exhaust fan and the sound o f a reporter discussing some w orld crisis on the C B S Evening Neti'S. Suddenly, M am a climbs the kitchen ladder to reach into the cabinet for a platter and Baba matches her exploit by pouring boiling w ater over the platter to heat it. (H o t food can never be served on a cold platter.) M iraculously, m y parents arrive at the table unscathed, along w ith the stir-fried dish. rice, the steamed dish, and a piping-hot saucepan o f soup. W ith in sec­ onds, it seems, everything is on the table, m asterfully executed. I f m ore than one dish is to be stir-fried, the second is cooked after w e have sampled these first dishes. T im in g is the most essential technique to master for stir-frying. Prepare carefully, and never try to chop or measure anything at the last m inute, especially w hile you are stir-frying. T h e m om ent the w ok is hot, turn on the exhaust fan, sw irl in the oil, and im m ediately add the food. O n e o f the secrets for preventing food from sticking in the w ok is to have the w ok hot, but the oil cool. D o not heat the o il but heat the w ok. Stay calm as the first crackle is heard as the food touches the oil. Som etim es the o il smokes or sputters. I f you feel anxious, sim ply pull the w ok o ff the heat and regroup. Stir-frying is full o f life and energy', and requires quick reactions. G arlic, ginger, and veg­ etables require im m ediate stir-frying; but poultry, meat, and seafood should cook undisturbed for a m inute or tw o , so that the ingredient sears slightly before stir-frying. I f you im m ediately start stirring, the meat w ill surely stick and tear, yet too m uch hesitation w ill result in food that is overcooked. Alw ays sw irl sauce ingredients dow n the sides o f the wfok to prevent the tem ­ perature o f the pan from dropping. Stay focused, pay attention, follow these tips, and you w ill master the art o f stir-frying. Eventually, too, you w ill achieve wok hay and understand w h y the Chinese have for centuries revered the experience o f food that still breathes its life force.

T he B re a th o f a W o k

23

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H

growing up. It is a wonderfully uncomplicated recipe that my parents used to make regularly during the week, when they had less time to devote to cook­ ing. Thick wedges of tom ato cook with oyster flavored sauce and beef that has been stir-fried with ginger to make a flavorful and delicious sauce to serve over rice. Oddly enough, this is amazingly good even when tomatoes are not in season.

Halve the flank steak w ith the grain into 2 strips. C ut each strip across the grain into '/4-inch-thick slices. Place slices in a shallow 8 o u n ces flank steak , w ell tr im m e d

bowl and sprinkle w ith the baking soda; stir to combine. Add the

'It te a sp o o n baking soda

Stir to combine and set aside.

I 'h teasp o o n s th in soy sauce I '/a teasp o o n s c o rn sta rc h I te a sp o o n S h a o H sing rice co o k in g w in e '/«te a sp o o n sesam e oil I 'U te a sp o o n s sugar

soy sauce, cornstarch, rice wine, sesame oil, and X A teaspoon sugar.

In

a large pot. bring about 114 quarts o f water to a boil over high

heat. Add the tomatoes and cook 1 to 3 minutes, or until the tomato skins just break. Rem ove tomatoes w ith a slotted spoon and. when cool enough to handle, peel skins. Core tomatoes and cut into Viinch-thick wedges. stir 1 teaspoon vegetable oil into the beef mixture. Heat

5 to m a to e s , a b o u t 2 pounds

M e a n w h ile ,

I te a sp o o n plus I tablespo on ve g e tab le oil

a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat until hot but

6 slices ginger

ger, and stir-fry about 1 minute. Carefully add the beef, spreading

3 tab lesp o o n s o y s te r flavored sauce 4 scallions, c u t in to 2-inch section s

not smoking. Add the remaining tablespoon vegetable oil and gin­ it in the wok. C ook, undisturbed, 1 to 2 minutes, letting beef be­ gin to brown. Then, using a metal spatula, stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes, or until beef is browned but still slightly rare. Transfer the beef to a plate and set aside. Add

the tomatoes and remaining teaspoon o f sugar to w ok. and stir-

fry 1 minute on high heat until tomatoes begin to soften. Add the oyster sauce and /* cup cold water, cover, and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until the tomatoes are just limp. Add the beef w ith any juices that have accumulated on the plate, and the scallions, and stir-fry 1 minute, or until just heated through. Serve immediately. S e rv e s 4 to 6 as p a r t o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

T he B re a th o f

25

-< o £ Q C\ 3-

O inch section s

through. Add red pepper flakes, snow peas, baby com . and straw mushrooms, and stir-fry 1 minute. Com bine chicken broth and re­ served marinade. Sw irl broth mixture into the w ok and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through and vegetables are hot. Stir in scallions and serve immediately. S e r v e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

26

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Stir-Fried Eggs with Barbecued Pork

3"

O * D O 3

My cousins Sylvia. Kathy, and David reminded me of this favorite dish.The in­ gredients are inexpensive and the method is simple, but for us it evokes the best of homecooking as we remember it. As children it was hard to get us to eat much rice, but my Uncle Tommy slyly would put a little oyster sauce on the eggs and serve them over steaming hot rice, and the flavors would be so comforting that we would eat lots of rice— every Chinese parent's wish.

In

a medium bowl, beat the eggs w ith the salt. Julienne the barbe­

cued pork into thin strips. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 4 U rg e eggs

skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add 1 teaspoon

'/i te a sp o o n salt

vegetable oil and the barbecued pork, and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add

4 o u n ces C h in e se B a rb e c u e d P o rk , store-bought o r h o m e m a d e (p age 176)

remaining 2 teaspoons vegetable oil and beaten eggs, and stir-fry

3 te a sp o o n s ve g e tab le oil I scallion, finely chopped O y s t e r flavo red sauce

until eggs are just beginning to set, about 1 minute. Add scallion and continue stir-frying 1 minute, or until eggs arc just set but still moist. D o not overcook. Serve immediately w ith oyster sauce. S e rv e s 4 to 6 as p a r t o f a m u ltic o u rs e m eal.

27

CP

o O’ o C\ 3 o

Baba s Stir-Fried Butterfly Fish and Bean Sprouts

r\ 3-

h-

O

Baba says the secret to making this is only cooking a small portion of fish.

C\

The first time I made this, the fish was overcooked and dry. It takes practice

3-

O ? -
te a sp o o n sugar 2 tab lesp o o n s ve g e tab le oil 2 tab lesp o o n s thin soy sauce C ila n tr o sprigs

sprinkle mushrooms, garlic, ginger, and half the scallions on the

ter. Cover the skillet, and bring water to a boil over high heat. Care­ fully place the platter into the steamer, cover, and steam 13 to 15 minutes on high heat or until fish flakes when tested. Check the wa­ ter level and replenish, if necessary, w ith boiling water. Test fish for doneness by poking the thickest part with a fork or chopstick; flesh should flake. If not, resteam 1 to 2 minutes, or until fish just flakes. Rem ove skillet from heat, and carefully remove the platter from steamer and pour o ff any liquid in the platter. In

a small skillet, heat oil over high heat until hot but not smoking.

Sprinkle remaining scallions over fish and drizzle with the soy sauce. Carefully pour hot oil over fish. The oil w ill make a crackling sound as it hits the fish. Garnish w ith cilantro. Serve immediately. S e rv e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

45

o

E JH I

N 3 00 D Q 3

r ty

C\ o

EJ

Steamed Sponge Cake I thought Steamed Sponge Cake was probably a Chinese-American invention, as it is an interesting fusion ofW estern ingredients with the Chinese method of steaming. My Auntie Elaine reminds me that it is an authentic Chinese

fr -*■ 7I / "

recipe: most homes in China did not have ovens, so it was natural that people would steam rather than bake a cake.This cake has a delicate crumb, resem­ bling a génoise, and is not very sweet. Because it is steamed, it is very moist and will stay moist if kept in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days. For W estern tastes it may seem a little plain and unusual, as the cake, obviously, does not brown. N either is it frosted or served with cream. The Chinese prefer their cakes simple and unadorned. W hen I was a child, we always purchased this from one of the Chinatown bakeries, but I discovered recently that it was easy to make. W h en removing the lid after steaming, do it quickly to prevent water that has condensed under the lid from dripping onto the cake.

L in e

the bottom o f an 8-inch-round. 2-inch-deep metal cake pan

w ith parchment paper. In a large bowl, beat whole eggs, egg w hite, 4 larg e eggs

and sugar until thick and pale yellow . 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the

I egg w h ite

vanilla extract. In a small bowl, thoroughly mix the cake flour and

V* cup sugar

baking powder. Using a rubber spatula, quickly fold in flour mix­

I te a sp o o n va n illa e x tra c t

ture, just until flour is no longer visible. Turn the batter into the

I c u p sifted cak e flo ur

prepared cake pan. filling the pan about V* full. Lightly tap pan to

'/) te a sp o o n b aking p o w d e r

settle any air pockets. B rin g

water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer large

enough to fit the cake pan without touching the sides. Place cake pan into steamer and cover w ith the lid. Reduce heat to medium and steam 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center o f the cake comes out clean. Check the water level and replenish, if necessary, w ith boiling water. Carefully remove cake pan from steamer. Immediately run a knife along the edge o f the cake to loosen sides. Place an 8- to 9-inch rack over the cake pan and un­ mold cake. Rem ove the parchment paper, flip cake right-side up onto another cake rack, and allow to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature. S e r v e s 6 to 8 as a d essert.

46

C\ c 3 90 !✓> -< c -< c o s o 3o

SHREDS

OF

GINGER

LIKE

BLADES

OF

GRASS

I

ASK

BABA

TO

TEACH

ME

TO

MAKE

A

few o f his specialties. “ First you must learn to correctly shred ginger, before w e cook any­ thing,” he admonishes. For Baba, it is m ean­ ingless to cook unless you properly slice, G ra n d b th e r (G u n g ju n g ) Fung L o k C h i w ith a yo u n g er

shred, chop, or m ince you r ingredients. M y arm sometimes aches as I shred a chunk o f ginger, trying to control the knife to make the thinnest slices. Baba, looking over m y shoulder, says critically, “ So crude, tai cho." 1 exam ine m y shreds and think this is as fine as any I ’ve ever

47

seen. T h en Baba takes the cleaver, the traditional Chinese knife, and demonstrates. Indeed his shreds are like blades o f grass, extraordinarily fine and delicate. Although he is elderly, his hands are steady as he cuts slices so thin that they curl o ff the cleaver. H e compares his ginger to m ine and observes that not only is his m ore beautiful but it w ill also taste better in the m outh. H e tells m e that a cook recognizes another cook the m om ent he sees him slice ginger. W h en I was ten years old. our fam ily made its first trip to the Far East. Even though I had eaten Chinese food m y entire life, I had m y first taste o f the life o f an epicure. In those days. M am a had said Chinese food in Am erica was unrefined and, as w e dined in H on g Kong. I fi­ nally understood w hat she meant. T h e dim sum w ere like jew els, studded w ith the tiniest pieces o f vegetable— like slivers o f bam boo shoots, finely m inced w ater chestnuts, shreds o f scallions— am azing to look at and m ore delectable to savor. M orsels so delicate they bore no resemblance to the big, clum sy things w e called dim sum in San Francisco. These w ere works o f art. T h is is w hat m y parents meant w hen they said, “ You must take heart to prepare." I un­ derstood, even then, that m y lesson was not to return hom e and try to replicate the dishes, for these chefs w ere masters, and any com parison w ould be unrealistic. H ow ever, these master­ pieces made a lasting impression on m e o f h ow superior food looks, smells, and tastes when created w ith heart. W h e n the food processor first entered the m arket, people com m ented on h ow great it w ould be for Chinese food. A ll the labor-intensive preparation w ould now take no tim e. Even Baba and M am a eagerly bought the m achine. B u t. w hether the vegetable was sliced or shred­ ded, it looked haphazard and horrible to their practiced and discerning eyes. Each evening be­ fore the preparation o f dinner in m y parents’ hom e, the kitchen is peaceful, a still life o f plates lined along the counter, each delicately m ounded w ith finely sliced or slivered ingredients. Soon the room w ill hum w ith the clanging o f pots, the sizzling o f stir-frying, and the deafen­ ing din o f the exhaust fan. In the midst o f this melee, I m arvel at the beauty o f their unsur­ passable knife skills. T h e refinem ent o f the hand-cut slice, shred, or m ince is one o f the hallmarks o f great Chinese food, and theirs is a superior m odel. Vegetable Lo M ein (page 97), for example, com ­ bines shreds o f Chinese m ushroom , carrots, Napa cabbage, scallions, and m inced ginger. Mam a shreds these ingredients so finely that every m outhful includes a taste o f each ingredient. Drunken C h ick en (page 52) is m agnificent, partially because the chicken is never overcooked, but also because it is drizzled w ith a delicate ginger and scallion sauce. U n til I studied Baba’s technique, I shredded in the French style o f scant one-eighth-inch-thick matchsticks. producing ginger and scallions that w ere slightly crunchy to the bite rather than feathery, w ith just a wisp o f arom atic flavor. W h en m y parents prepare Singapore R ic e Noodles (page 32), the sweet scallions, Chinese m ushrooms, and celery arc so finely shredded that their flavors meld w ith the shrim p and provide texture w itho ut any one ingredient dom inating in flavor.

48

I

have been a professional in the cooking field for over tw en ty years, yet w ield ing a meat

cleaver to chop chicken is for me an intim idating process. I have watched Chinese butchers sw iftly chop, and I have watched m y parents do it m ore slow ly, but w ith as m uch control. I of­ ten w ondered how M am a, w ho didn’t learn to cook until she im m igrated to Am erica, and Baba, w ho was pampered w ith his m other’s cooking until he m arried, ever learned this skill. M y parents share a practical outlook on life. W h en cooking became a necessity, they sim ply learned, never stopping to think about their fears. R o c k Sugar G inger C hicken (page 58) and Steamed C h ick en w ith L ily Buds, C lou d Ears, and M ushroom s (page 44) are tw o o f m y all-tim e favorite dishes. R a w chicken is chopped straight through the bone w ith a sharp meat cleaver into bite-sized pieces and then m arinated. T h e breast is not d ifficult to chop, since the bone is quite soft. T h e drum stick, how ever, w ith its thick bones, requires perfect technique to chop into three bite-sized pieces. As 1 perform this feat, I w orry' about how slippery' the raw chicken skin is and how uneven m y pieces are. 1 have questioned w h y the chicken needs to be chopped, although I know quite w ell that cooking chicken on the bone makes it m ore ju ic y and succulent. In addition, it is the Chinese custom not to cat big pieces o f meat. You must be swift and sure w hen chopping w ith a meat cleaver, em ploying the same un­ erring exactness a craftsman uses to hammer. Insufficient pow er and the knife w ill not cut through, producing bone splinters; trying to place the cleaver in the same spot tw ice can result in tw o half-cut incisions that are unattractive. H ow ever, if the m ove is too sw ift and inaccu­ rate, the hand holding the chicken could . . . the thought turns me cold. C hopping w ith a meat cleaver is not m y strength. I w ill confess that sometimes, in the name o f m y ow n safety, I skip the traditions and sim ply disjoint the chicken. I w ould advise novice cooks to do the same. T h e Chinese also chop cooked chicken, such as S o y Sauce C hicken (page 174). W h ite C ut C hicken (page 110), and Salt-Roasted C h ick en (page 173), w h ich is frankly no easier than chopping raw chicken. Fo r W estern tastes, it is perhaps better to always disjoint a chicken. A chopped chicken can often have fine splinters from the bone, and I have observed that this cre­ ates unease for some eaters. C u ttin g slivers o f scallions, slicing any vegetable into a roll-cut or shred does not daunt me. B u t to this day, I still wish I chopped effortlessly. There are tw o types o f cleavers (see photo, page 245). O n e has a m ore delicate appear­ ance w ith a thinner cutting edge, and is sometimes called a Chinese chef's knife or vegetable cleaver, despite the fact that it can be used for boneless meats and chicken in addition to vegetables. T h e heavier cleaver, w ith a blunter edge, is know n as a meat cleaver, and is better for chopping through chicken and fish bones. Fo r most Chinese cooking, a hand-forged, European, highcarbon stainless-steel vegetable cleaver or high-quality eight-inch cook’s knife is recomm ended. T h ere are also fantastic “ h ollo w ground” Japanese cook’s knives, w hich have a super-fme edge for slicing but not for chopping. A vo id the high-carbon steel cleavers (w h ich are the traditional

49

Chinese cleavers) because they corrode too easily and the quality o f the blade is inferior. C are­ fully wash and dry the cleaver or coo k’s knife after each use, and never place it in the dish­ washer. 1 prefer the vegetable cleaver over a coo k’s knife because o f its versatility: T h e butt end o f the cleaver’s handle is often used to mash ingredients, the blade can be laid on its side to smash ginger or garlic, and the blunt edge o f the cleaver blade is excellent for pounding meat for tenderizing. T h e broad surface o f the blade also makes it a useful tool for gathering up ingredients. As part o f m y quest to learn and perfect the preparation techniques so central to Chinese cooking, I asked Baba to cook Stir-Fried Butterfly Fish and Bean Sprouts (page 28), one o f his specialties. “ W e ll.” he said sm iling, “ you know I ’m still practicing— sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t." Indeed, the first cooking demonstration Baba gave me was disappoint­ ing— the fish was slightly overcooked and fell apart. A few weeks later, though, he cooked it to perfection. I com pared notes: T h e tim ing differed by about forty-five seconds, the most subtle o f adjustments. Eighty-four years old and Baba is still practicing. H is h u m ility is an in­ spiration. It rem inds me that m astery comes w ith perseverance. I w ill think o f this the next tim e I feel I ought to be as good as the C hin atow n butcher. A ll Chinese recipes require m astery o f knife skills, some m ore than others. T h e preced­ ing recipes for rice, stir-fries, and steam ing dishes demand expertise in knife skills as much as do the follo w ing recipes for panfrying, poaching, braising, and soups.

so

N

m & l i X. rf> 4" X

3 O Fried W h ite Fish r\ x*n Q For a long time I used to think nothing could compare to the delicate flavor 3 -< of steamed or poached fish. But this simple method of pan-frying fish until C CD

golden, and then drizzling it with a half-dozen seasonings infuses the fish with a sauce that is irresistible. W h ite fish are small fish that are a little over I ounce apiece and are no longer than 7 inches in length. Wash the fish iii several changes o f cold water. C ut o ff heads and tails on the diagonal. Rinse fish and thoroughly drain in a colander.

10 sm all w h ite fish (a b o u t 12 o u n ce s), c le an ed and gu tted

G ently rub the cavities and the outsides o f the fish w ith salt. Finely mince the scallion and place in a small bowl. Add the garlic,

'/j te a sp o o n salt

ginger, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil. sugar, and pepper.

I scallion, w h ite p o rtio n only

Heat a 14-inch skillet over high heat, until hot but not smoking.

I g a rlic clo ve, fin e ly m in ced

Add 2 tablespoons oil and fish, and cook, undisturbed, 3 to 4 m in­

I tab lesp o o n finely m in ced ginger

utes on medium-high heat, letting fish fry until golden brown.

1 tab lesp o o n th in soy sauce

spoons o f oil. and reduce heat to medium. Fry until golden, about 4

2 teasp o o n s S h a o H sin g rice co o k in g w in e

to 5 minutes. Spoon sauce over all the fish, reduce heat to low,

I te a sp o o n sesam e oil '/»te a sp o o n sugar 7« te a sp o o n gro un d w h ite pepper A b o u t 4 tab lespo o ns ve g e tab le oil

Using a metal spatula, carefully turn fish, add 1 to 2 more table­

cover, turn o ff the heat, and let sit for 1 minute. Test fish for doncness by poking the thickest part w ith a fork or chopstick; flesh should flake. If not. gently warm fish on medium heat until just cooked through. Transfer fish to a platter and garnish w ith cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately. S e r v e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

C ila n tro sprigs

SI

N o "< C\ Q

5 Drunken Chicken

jS

IL Unlike the W estern style of poaching chicken, this unusual method calls for vigorously boiling the chicken, then rapidly cooling the chicken down with ice water. This is done twice, which results in the chicken being succulent and juicy. The chicken is then scented and infused with Shao Hsing rice cooking wine and served with the classic ginger and scallion sauce. Rice wine is avail­ able in Chinese grocery and liquor stores for about two to five dollars. Choose a more expensive rice wine for this dish. A bonus of this recipe is the poaching liquid, which is a lovely light broth that can be reserved for soups.

Remove any fat pockets from the chicken. R u b chicken w ith about 2 teaspoons salt. Rinse the chicken under cold water and drain on O n e 4-pound bro iler-fryer ch icken 4'/< teasp o o n s salt 8 q u a rts ice w a te r I cup S h a o H sin g rice co o k in g w in e '/4 cup fin e ly sh red d ed g reen scallions

a rack. In a 6-quart pot, or a pot large enough to fit the chicken, bring 3 quarts cold water to a boil over high heat, covered. Carefully add chicken, breast-side up, adding more boiling water, if necessary, to com pletely cover chicken. C over and return to a boil over high heat. W hen the broth returns to a rolling boil, boil vigorously over high heat, uncovered, 17 minutes, rem oving any scum that rises to

'I* cup fin e ly sh red d ed gin g er

the surface. Rem ove from heat. Using 2 heavy spoons, carefully

3 tab lesp o o n s ve g e tab le oil

transfer hot chicken to a colander in the sink. Slow ly pour 4 quarts ice water over the chicken, until chicken is warm to the touch. Return the chicken cooking liquid to a rolling boil over high heat. Again, carefully add the partially cooked chicken, breast-side up. adding more boiling water, if necessary, to completely cover chicken. Return to a boil over high heat, uncovered. W hen the broth returns to a rolling boil, boil vigorously over high heat, un­ covered, 17 minutes, rem oving any scum that rises to the surface. R em ove from heat. Using 2 heavy spoons, carefully transfer hot chicken to a colander in the sink. (The chicken should register 170 degrees when tested w ith a meat thermometer at the meatiest part o f the thigh. I f not, return to the pot and simmer several more m in­ utes.) Slow ly pour the remaining 4 quarts o f ice water over the chicken in the colander, until chicken is warm to the touch. Save the chicken broth and reserve for soups.

S2

E R I N G THE F U N O A M I

Place the chicken on a rack and air-dry 30 minutes in a cool and breezy room. Sprinkle the entire surface o f the chicken w ith V* tea­ spoon salt. W ith a meat cleaver, chop the chicken through the bone into bite-sized pieces, reserving any chicken juices (or disjoint into serving pieces). Place the chicken in a casserole dish and pour rice wine over the chicken. C over and marinate 1 to 2 hours at room temperature, occasionally basting chicken w ith rice w ine. Pour reserved juices back into the casserole. Meanwhile, place scallions, ginger, and remaining VA teaspoons salt in a small heatproof dish. In a small skillet, heat oil over high heat until hot but not smoking. Carefully pour hot oil over scallions and ginger. The oil w ill make a crackling sound as it hits the scallions and ginger. Serve chicken w ith scallion-ginger sauce at room tem­ perature. Serves 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal.

53

3 C CD

O < ~! 7T 2 |

Braised Beef It took me so long to find out that the English name for the cut of beef used in this recipe is outside flank. Every Chinese butcher shop carries this, for it is a popular item, but there it is known by its Cantonese name, gnul nam. I found a few Chinese markets that had signs calling it beef rough flank or beef outside flank; but finally Tom Keane, of J.A.W .D. meat wholesalers in N ew York City, told me it is outside flank, not to be confused with flank steak. In the trade it is called katilius trunk eye or rosetti. Flank steak is popular for stir-frying, but the outside flank is a tougher cut that must be braised in or­ der to tenderize it. It is doubtful you’ll find this in an American butcher shop, but if you have a helpful butcher, ask for outside flank. The beef is about a scant '/2 inch thick with a thin layer of silver skin on top.This cut is delicious, especially when cooked for this classic home-style Cantonese stew, a popu­ lar item found in noodle shops, where it is served with Chinese egg noodles and braised lettuce. For the Chinese the real prize in this dish is the beef tendon, gnul gun. It is an ingredient that may surprise W esterners. As the ten­ dons cook, they become gelatinous and so rich in texture they almost melt in your mouth. Firm, white beef tendons are sold in Chinese butcher shops.

In a 3-quart pot, bring about 1 quart cold water to a boil over high heat. Add outside flank and beef tendons, and return to a boil. Drain I '/a pounds outside flank (gnul nam)

beef and tendons in a colander and rinse under cold water. Rem ove any cxccss fal w jth a paring knife. C ut the beef into 2-inch squares.

I pound beef tendons (gnul gun)

usjng a VCIy sharp meat cleaver or knife, as it w ill be difficult to cut.

1 tablespoon light brown sugar 2 tablespoons thin soy sauce

£ ut the tendons into 1-inch pieces; this w ill feel like you’re cutting through bone.

1 tablespoon black soy sauce 2 tablespoons Shao Hsing rice cooking wine

Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat, until , , ,. . , c , . ., . but not smoking. Add the beef and tendons without any oil. and

■/,-inch-thick slice fresh ginger

stir-fr>' 4 m inutes: thc mcat wiU stick a ,ittle- Add thc brown

3 pieces dried ginger (sa geung) thin and b,ack SOV SaUCCS* and nCC winC‘ and CO° k -St,mn8’ 2 min’ 2 star anise (bot guok) I Chinese white turnip, about 3 pounds

54

utCS* Add 3V* CUPS Cold Watcr’ frcsh BinScr* dricd g>ngcr’ and star anise* and brinS to a boil ovcr hi^ Cover, reduce heat to low. and simmer 3 hours. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil.

Meanwhile, peel the turnip and cut into /^-inch-thick pieces. W hen stew conies to a boil, add turnip and return to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 to 45 minutes, or until the turnip is ten­ der when pierced w ith a knife. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8 as part of a multicourse meal.

ft 3

3O O 3

Braised Sweet and Sour Spareribs

This is one of the simplest recipes to make, yet it produces spareribs that ate it chilled, and the fragrance of the sesame oil suits the cooling and re­ 3O freshing taste of the spinach and tofu. Squeeze as much water as you can D c

from the cooked spinach or the excess w ater will dilute the flavors.

In a 114-quart saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Add the tofu and return to a boil. W ith a slotted spoon, remove the tofu and place on a rack to cool.

k 2 sq u ares firm tofu, ab o u t 6 ou n ces 1'/ j pounds spinach, p re fe rab ly young 2 tab lesp o o n s sm all C h in ese d rie d sh rim p , rinsed

Rem ove

all stems from the spinach. Wash spinach in several changes

o f cold water and drain thoroughly in a colander. Return water to a boil over high heat, and add the spinach. Cook until it is just limp, about 30 seconds. Drain and rinse under cold water. Sq u eez e

the spinach to remove excess water and form into a tight

ball. Chop the spinach by cutting the ball into 14-inch slices. Place the spinach in a large bowl. Cut

the tofu into 14-inch dice. Finely chop the shrimp. Add the

I tab lesp o o n sesam e oil

sesame oil. salt. tofu, and shrimp to the spinach, and toss to com ­

'/} te a sp o o n salt

bine. C h ill, if desired, or serve at room temperature. S e r v e s 4 to 6 as p a r t o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

77

£ c

3

'J x

+ Jr

f a

o o o Braised Mushrooms 3 oo cup ch o pp ed scallions

95

ft

‘y

c 3 CKJ cup b a rle y

M e a n w h ile ,

8 C h in e se m u sh ro o m s

minutes. Drain and remove the tiny green sprout in the center of

3 tab lesp o o n s S h a o H sing ric e co o k in g w in e

each seed. Rinse the barley in several changes o f cold water and

2 tab lesp o o n s th in soy sauce 1 tab lesp o o n light b ro w n sugar 2 teasp o o n s sesam e oil I '/> teasp o o n s b lack soy sauce I te a sp o o n gro un d w h ite pepper

drain. In

a medium saucepan, bring 1 cup water to a boil over high heat.

Add the chestnuts, cover, reduce heat to low. and simmer 15 m in­ utes. Add the lotus seeds and barley, and return to a boil over high heat. Turn otT the heat and let stand, covered. 45 minutes, or until the chestnuts, lotus seeds, and barley are just tender. Drain, transfer to a medium bowl, and set aside.

I cu p u nshelled gingko nuts

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in X A cup cold

I pound N a p a cabbage

water for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain and squeeze dry. re­

C ila n tro sprigs

serving the soaking liquid. Cut offand discard stems and slice the caps.

146

In a large roasting pan, combine the rice w ine, thin soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil. remaining 2 teaspoons salt, black soy sauce, and pepper, and stir to combine. Add the duck and mb the mixture all over the skin and in the cavity. Marinate the duck for 45 minutes. the gingko nuts lightly w ith a hammer, tapping on the open­

C ra c k

ing and removing the shells. In a small saucepan, bring about 1 cup water to a boil over high heat. Blanch the shelled gingko nuts for about 1 minute. Drain, rinse under cold water, and remove the skins. S e p a ra te

the Napa cabbage into leaves. Wash the leaves in several

changes o f cold water and drain thoroughly in a colander until dry to the touch. Remove the duck from the marinade, reserving the marinade. In a 14-inch skillet, add the duck breast-side up and cook undis­ turbed for 5 minutes on medium to medium-high heat, until light golden brown. Carefully turn the duck over and cook 4 to 5 m in­ utes. Pour offany excess fat or blot it away with paper towels. Keep turning the duck, adjusting the heat between medium to mediumhigh heat until the duck is a deep golden brown on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes. C a re fu lly

transfer the duck to a platter lined w ith several thicknesses

o f paper towels. Carefully pour the fat from the skillet and set aside to cool before discarding. Add the gingko nuts, mushrooms, and the reserved duck marinade to the bow l o f barley chestnut mixture and stir to combine. Stuff this into the duck’s cavity. Return the duck to the skillet breast-side up. Add Vi cup boiling water and the reserved mushroom liquid, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 30 minutes. Carefully turn the duck over and continue cooking for 30 minutes. Skim any surface fat. T rim

'A inch from the stem end o f the cabbage leaves and discard.

Stack 2 to 3 cabbage leaves at a time and cut them crosswise into '/i-inch-wide shreds. R e tu rn

the liquid to a boil over high heat. Add the cabbage to the

skillet and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, until the duck is just tender, about 10 minutes. Carefully transfer the duck to a platter and place the cabbage and sauce around the duck; garnish w ith cilantro. Serve immediately. S e r v e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

147

2 o 3 -< c

Braised Nom Yu and Taro Duck

o

-ft o . Nom Yu and Taro Duck is traditionally eaten on August -*A-

* £ c 3 o ■o

15 on the Lunar cal­

endar. which is roughly in Septem ber or O ctober on the Roman calendar. It signifies the changing o f the seasons and a time to begin eating heartier, warm ­ ing foods, in contrast to the cooler foods suitable for the summer. After the duck and taro have been braised in w et bean curd, soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil. and rice wine, they become sinfully rich. It is best when cooked the day before, so that the flavors can penetrate the duck and taro.

IT7I-

In Chinatown, duck will be sold with head and feet, and should weigh about four pounds. Otherwise, it should be about three pounds. The duck is best when marinated overnight, but it is still delicious even after just I '/2 hours of marinating. See Nom Yu Spareribs (page 56) for information on purchasing wet bean curd.

Remove any fat pockets from the duck and rub it all over w ith 2 tea­ spoons salt. Rinse the duck under cold water and place on a rack. O n e 3-pound duck

Pat the duck dry inside and out w ith paper towels.

3 te a sp o o n s salt

In a large roasting pan, combine the 3 cubes wet bean curd, 2 ta­

4 cubes re d w e t bean curd (nom yu)

blespoons thin soy sauce, nee w ine, black soy sauce, brown sugar.

3 tab lesp o o n s th in soy sauce 2 tab lesp o o n s S h a o H sing ric e co o k in g w in e I tab lesp o o n black soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil, 16 teaspoon salt, and pepper, and stir to com­ bine. mashing the wet bean curd. Add the duck and rub the mix­ ture all over the skin and in the cavity. Marinate at least 116 hours in a cool and breezy room. W e a r in g

rubber gloves (raw taro can be irritating to the skin), peel

I tab lesp o o n light b ro w n sugar

the taro root w ith a cleaver or cook’s knife and quarter it length­

4 tea sp o o n s sesam e oil

wise. C ut each quarter crosswise into scant '/4-inch-thick slices.

'/j tea sp o o n gro un d w h ite pepper I ta ro ro o t, a b o u t 3 pounds

Place the taro in a large bowl and add the remaining 1 tablespoon thin soy sauce, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, sugar, Zi teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 cube bean curd, and stir to combine.

I te a sp o o n sugar C ila n tr o sprigs

Remove the duck from its marinade, reserving the marinade. •n a 14-inch skillet, add the duck breast-side up and cook, undis­ turbed. 5 minutes on medium to medium-high heat until light golden brown. Carefully turn the duck and cook 4 to 5 minutes. Pour o ff any excess fat or blot w ith paper towels. Keep turning the duck, adjusting the heat between medium and medium-high until the duck is a deep golden brown on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes.

148

Carefully transfer the duck to a platter lined w ith several thicknesses o f paper towels. (Carefully pour o ff any fat from skillet and set aside to cool before discarding.) Add 1Vi cups water and the reserved marinade to the skillet. Add the duck breast-side up and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook 30 minutes. Turn the duck over and cook 30 minutes. Add the taro root and return to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook another 30 to 45 minutes, or until the duck and taro root are cookcd through. The cooked taro w ill have the texture o f potato. Garnish w ith cilantro. Serve immediately. S e rv e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rs e m eal.

A D ay Lived As If in C hina

149

-< n c 3 90

o Stuffed Chicken Wings 5- W h en my parents used to entertain. I remember Mama cooking this for spe­ cial occasions. I would watch her painstakingly debone the wings and. with equal dexterity, stuff each one. I fondly recall how amazing it was to taste slivers of mushroom, chicken, ham. and bamboo all in one bite.This summer, when I requested that Mama show me how to make it. it had been thirty years since I last tasted this dish. It was as delicious as I remember, but I gained a renewed appreciation for the culinary expertise it demands. For the Chinese, chicken wings are a great delicacy; they are said to bless one with the ability to soar a thousand miles.

In a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in /* cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain and squeeze dry, reserving the 4 C h in e se d rie d m u sh ro o m s

soaking liquid. C ut o ff and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

2 o u n ces S m ith fie ld ham

Meanwhile, rinse the ham in cold water. In a small saucepan, bring

2 te a sp o o n s light b row n sugar 10 ch ick e n w ings, ab o u t 2'/« pounds */« cup can n ed w h o le b am b o o sh o o ts, rinsed I te a sp o o n c o rn sta rc h C ila n tr o sprigs

1 cup cold water to a boil over high heat. Add the ham and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain the ham and rinse under cold water. Pat it dry w ith paper towels. Place the ham in a small heatproof dish and add brown sugar. Bring water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer. Carefully place the dish into steamer, cover, rcducc heat to medium, and steam 20 minutes, or just until ham is softened. Check the water level and replenish, if necessary, w ith boiling water. Carefully re­ move the dish from the steamer, set the ham aside, reserving any juices that have accumulated in the dish. W hen cool enough to han­ dle. slice the ham into paper-thin slices. Stack a few slices at a time and cut into paper-fine shreds. Meanwhile, rinse the chicken wings under cold water and place on a rack. O n a cutting board, cut the wings at the join t above the drumette (the section w ith a single bone that looks like a mini drumstick). Reserve the drumcttes for another use (they’re excel­ lent for chicken stock). Using a paring knife, starting at the end where the w ing was attached to the drumette, carefully scrapc the meat o ff the 2 w ing bones toward the wing tip, without tearing the skin or removing the w ing tip. Tw ist both w ing bones, rotating them until they can be easily pulled out. Discard the bones.

150

the bamboo shoots into 2-inch long, scant '/«-inch-thick slices. Stack the slices and cut into fine shreds. Si

each chicken w ing w ith a few mushroom, ham, and bamboo

shreds. Place the stuffed wings in one layer in a 9-inch shallow heat­ proof bowl. Brii

water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer large

enough to fit the dish uHthout touching the sides of the steamer. Care­ fully place the dish into the steamer, cover, and steam on high heat, 8 minutes. Check the water level and replenish, if necessary, with boiling water. Turn o ff the heat. Let stand, covered, 7 minutes. Test the chicken for doneness by poking it w ith a knife; juices should run clear. If not, rcstcam 1 to 2 minutes, or until chicken is just cooked. Remove from heat, carefully remove the bowl from steamer, and pour o ff any liquid into a small saucepan. Add the reserved mush­ room and ham juices. In a small bowl, combine cornstarch and 2 tablespoons cold water. Bring the mixture in the saucepan to a boil over high heat. Add the cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring, 1 minute, or until thickened. Pour sauce over chicken wings. Gar­ nish, with cilantro. Serve immediately. S e r v e s 4 to 6 as p a rt o f a m u ltic o u rse m eal.

ISI

L'

o 3

o Savory Rice Tamales 3 One of the most traditional recipes in the Cantonese repertoire is zoong, or rice tamales. They are made for the Dragon Festival on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar to commemorate the summer solstice. My family never made zoong. but sometimes Mama's friends would do so and of­ fer them as gifts. It was such a treat to get homemade zoong. for they are far superior to the ones sold in Chinatown. Each zoong is a meal in itself: It typ­ ically has sweet rice. pork, sausage, dried shrimp, mung beans, and duck eggs. The filling ingredients for the savory tamales are up to the cook. In addition to the ingredients called for below, you can put in Chinese mushrooms, dried scallops, chestnuts, lotus seeds, or peanuts. The process of making zoong is difficult and very time consuming, but the results are so heavenly that I wanted to learn to make them .The number of people who know how to do this is diminishing quickly, so to help preserve this art I have included the tw o styles of zoong: savory (horn zoong). below, and sweet (gan soy zoong). which follows.The sweet tamales are much easier to make, though, to my taste, the savory are better. N o one ever makes tw o or three zoong, because the process is so involved. A recipe generally makes about thirty, but by the time you have given a few away to privileged friends, and your family has eaten a few. they seem to disappear far too quickly. The bamboo leaves that wrap the zoong are called zook yeep in Cantonese. Find

the stem end o f the bamboo leaf. C ut V2 inch from this end on

each leaf (photo 1). Place leaves in a large canning pot. cover in hot, I package b a m b o o leaves 1 p ound p o rk b u tt, w ell tr im m e d ■/« cup plus S'U teasp o o n s salt 5 pounds sw e e t rice Vi cup ve g e tab le oil 2 packages (14 o u n ces ea c h ) ye llo w m u n g beans

but not boiling, water, and soak overnight. Cut the pork into 2- by 14-inch pieces. Toss w ith V* teaspoon salt. C over and refrigerate overnight. R inse

the bamboo leaves in cold water. Place the leaves, V* cup salt,

and enough cold water to cover in a large canning pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, and boil 0 11 high heat, 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave pot covered until the water cools to room tem­

12 salted d u ck eggs (hom d a n )

perature. Drain and scrub the leaves, one at a time, under cold water

3 C h in e s e sausages (/op ch o n g )

and drape in a colander so that the water can drip off. Its important

'/: cup C h in e se d rie d sh rim p

molding.

152

to wash the leaves carefully to prevent the finished tamales from

R in se

the ricc in several changes o f cold water and soak in enough

cold water to cover for 1 hour, or until rice is soft to the bite. Trans­ fer rice to a colander and drain well. Place the rice in a large bowl and mix in remaining 4Vi teaspoons salt and oil, and stir until combined. R in se

the yellow mung beans in several changes o f cold water and

drain well. Crack open the duck eggs, discarding egg whites, which are watery and cloudy. C ut egg yolks, which are very sticky, in half and set aside. C ut each Chinese sausage into 2-inch-long pieces, then quarter each piece lengthwise. Rinse the dried shrimp in sev­ eral changes o f cold water and drain well. U sin g

only untorn bamboo leaves, take tw o moist leaves, w ith the

hard rib-side down, and place them on top o f each other lengthwise, overlapping all but 1 inch along the bottom length. W ith the 1-inch overlap facing you, fold the leaves in half crosswise, w ith the bottom edges together (the top edges stay open). Fold the 1-inch overlap to close the bottom and to form a pocket (photo 2). H old the pocket in one palm w ith the ends o f the leaves facing you. Place about A cup rice into the pocket. Make a well and add 1 tablespoon o f the yellow mung beans, A egg yolk, 2 pieces o f Chinese sausage, 4 to 5 dried shnmp, and 1 piece o f pork. Sprinkle on 1 tablespoon o f the yellow mung beans and 2 to 3 tablespoons o f the rice so that the filling is al­ most covered. W rap a third leaf around the two leaves to extend the depth o f the pocket by A inch (photo 3). Pinch the tw o top edges together and fold the top edge tightly over the filling to seal (photo 4). Stand the tamale w ith the open end up and lightly tap to help the filling settle. The filling should be as compact as possible. Turn the tamale so one o f the folded edges is facing you. and fold the open ends tightly over the filling toward you to seal (photo 5). This w ill force the tamale to form a tight pyramid. U sin g

about 3 feet o f string for each tamale, place the center o f the

string in the center o f the tamale and w ind 7 or 8 times across the width and then 2 or 3 times lengthwise. Secure tightly w ith a knot. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make about 30 tamales. *n a large canning pot, bring water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add as many tamales as can fit into the pot and still be totally covered in water. You may need to use 2 or 3 pots to cook all the tamales, de­ pending on the size o f your pots. Return to a boil, cover, and cook at a rolling boil on high heat 5 hours, replenishing w ith boiling wa­ ter frequently, so that the tamales are always totally covered in boiling water. Carefully m onitor the pots as the tamales cook. (continued on next page) 153

Savory Rice Tamales (cont) H alfw ay through cooking, rotate the tamales so that the ones on top are shifted to the bottom. Drain. To serve, string and carefully un­ wrap, discarding the bamboo leaves. Place any remaining, wrapped tamales in the refrigerator where they w ill keep for about 10 days. To reheat refrigerated tamales, cook on high heat in enough boiling water to cover 30 minutes, or until heated through. Tamales can be frozen, wrapped securely in plastic bags, and w ill keep for about 4 months. Reheat in boiling water for about 45 minutes. Makes about 30 tamales.

o 3 o N o o 3 0«

Sweet Rice Tamales The name Sweet Rice Tamales is deceptive, for they are not in the least bit sweet. I believe they are so named because the main ingredient is sweet rice. The preparation of the Sweet Tamales differs slightly from that of the Savory Tamales. Only two leaves are used instead o f three for wrapping and the method of wrapping is simpler for the novice to master.The final shape is not a pyramid but a flat rectangular package, and it’s wrapped slightly more loosely than the savory tamale, which makes the rice fluffier. Potassium carbonate solution, or gan soy. is available in bottles in most Chinese grocery stores.

Find the stem end o f the bamboo leaf. C ut off/4 inch from this end on each leaf (photo 1. page 153). Place the leaves in“a large canning '/ j

p ackag e b a m b o o leaves

pot, cover in hot, but not boiling, water, and soak overnight.

1/4 cup salt

Rinse the bamboo leaves in cold water. Place the leaves. V« cup salt,

2 pounds sw e e t rice

and enough cold water to cover in a large canning pot. Bring to a

2 tab lesp o o n s p o tassium c a rb o n a te solution

boil over high heat. Cover, and boil on high heat 30 minutes. Turn

I tab lesp o o n ve g e tab le oil

o ff heat and leave covered until water cools to room temperature. Drain and scrub the leaves, one at a time, under cold water and drape in a colander so that the water can drip off. It’s important to wash the leaves carefully to prevent the finished tamales from molding. Rinse the rice in several changes o f cold water and soak in enough cold water to cover for 30 minutes (do not soak the rice for more

154

than 30 minutes or it w ill absorb too much potassium carbonate and become bitter). Transfer rice to a colander and drain well. Place the drained rice in a large bow l and add potassium carbonate, w hich w ill immediately turn the rice a pale yellow color. M ix w ith hands un­ til w ell combined. Add oil, and stir until combined. Using only untorn bamboo leaves, take two moist leaves, w ith the hard rib-side down, and place them on top o f each other length­ wise. overlapping all but V* inch along the bottom length. W ith the %-inch overlap facing you. fold the leaves in half crosswise, w ith the bottom edges together (the top edges stay open). Fold the 34-inch overlap to close the bottom and to form a pocket (photo 2, page 153). H old the pocket in one palm w ith the ends o f the leaves fac­ ing you. Place Zz to 2 A cup rice into the pocket and spread it (photo 3, page 153). Pinch the two top edges together and fold the top edge over the filling to seal (photo 4, page 153). C ut o ff excess leaves at the open ends and fold the ends over the filling to form a compact rectangle (photo at left). Using about 2Vz feet o f string for each tamale, place the center o f the string in the center o f the tamale and w ind 7 or 8 times across the width and then 2 or 3 times lengthwise. Secure tightly with a knot. D o not wrap too tightly; allow room for the rice to expand. Repeat w ith remaining ingredients to make about 10 tamales. In a large pot, bring water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add as many tamales as w ill fit into the pot and still be totally covered in water. You may need to use 2 pots to cook all the tamales, de­ pending on the size o f your pots. Return to a boil and cook, cov­ ered, at a rolling boil on high heat 5 hours, replenishing with boiling water frequently, so that the tamales arc always totally covered in boiling water. Carefully m onitor the pots as the tamales cook. Halfway through cooking, rotate the tamales so that the ones on top arc shifted to the bottom. Drain and allow to cool to room temperature. (If eaten immediately, the tamales w ill causc hiccups.) To serve, cut the string, unwrap, dis­ carding the bamboo leaves. Place any remaining, wrapped tamales in the refrigerator where they w ill keep for about 10 days. To re­ heat refrigerated tamales, cook on high heat in enough boiling wa­ ter to cover 20 minutes, or until heated through. Tamales can be frozen, wrapped securely in plastic bags, and w ill keep for 4 months. Reheat in boiling water for about 30 minutes. Makes about 10 tamales.

A D ay Lived A s If ir

ma

155

< ✓> c £

5 Pork Dumplings There are many different kinds of pork dumplings, and siu mat are one of the most popular, typically served in dim sum restaurants. W hen homemade, the dumplings are unsurpassed, if they are made with an equal amount of fresh w ater chestnuts to ground pork. Chinese mushrooms, cilantro, and scallions. Siu mai are distinctly different from other dumplings, because they are made with round won ton skins, not the typical square-shaped skins. Each brand has a different thickness of dough, but the thinner the better; the dumplings will be more delicate. If round won ton skins are not available. I cut square wrappers into 3-inch-wide circles. This recipe makes about 3'/2 dozen siu mai. Steam as many as you need, or cover in plastic wrap, refriger­ ate. and steam within two to three hours.

,n a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in Vi cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain and squeeze dry (reserve soaking 8 C h in e se d rie d m u sh ro o m s

liquid for use in soups). C ut o ff and discard stems and mince the

14 fresh w a t e r ch estn uts, a b o u t 12 o u n ces

caps.

8 o u n ces gro un d p o rk b u tt 2 tab lesp o o n s fin ely chopped cilan tro I cu p m in c e d scallions I tab lesp o o n plus I teaspoo n S h a o H sin g ric e cook in g w in e I tab lesp o o n th in soy sauce 1'/i teasp o o n s se sam e oil 2 te a sp o o n s sugar '/c). Chinese red beans and adzuki beans (Itoong dul and zeck siu dul), and white and red wet bean curd (Jit yu and nom yu) seek out a Chinese clerk for assistance. That said, try not to become frustrated w ith the Chinese clerk who looks at you blankly when you request an ingredient in English. This lack o f standardization for labeling often makes it diffi­ cult for anyone to make sense o f what you want. Also. Chinese grocers, butchers, and produce vendors can seem slightly aloof. There are exceptions, o f course, but for the most part, food sellers do not see themselves as cultural ambassadors. Their role is not to assist you in deciphering the maze o f exotic groceries, educate you in the differences in quality', or explain how to select pro­ duce. The task o f demystifying Chinese ingredients is a complex undertaking compounded by the fact that many vendors do not speak English well, and most non-Asian shoppers cannot speak C h i­ nese; it is no wonder many clerks seem unhelpful. T ry to remind yourself: If you were a foreigner unable to speak English looking for a particular pasta in an American supermarket, how helpful would a typical clerk be at explaining w hy bow-tie pasta is also called butterfly or farfalle, depend­ ing on the manufacturer? In Chinatown take the same approach you would if you were going abroad. Be self-sufficient and be aware o f a rough lay o f the land. Educate yourself with as much information as you can about the in­ gredients you seek. This w ill save you the frustration o f having to constantly ask for help. Every Chinese grocery store is set up differently but there arc some common threads: Just as in an American super­ market, once you locate the cottage cheese, you’ll find the cream cheese, and know that the yogurt cannot be far away. Approach a Chinese market as if you were a sleuth. It is imperative that you read the descriptions in the Glossary (page 246) and note the physical characteristics o f the ingredient and the kind o f package it generally comes in. Check to see if the ingredient matches the photo identification

241

(see the ingredients photos in the photo insert). And, when absolutely necessary, show the Chinese character o f the ingredient to the shopkeeper and try to say the ingredient based on the Cantonese pho­ netic pronunciation provided. W hen you enter a Chinese grocery store, notice that the most expensive ingredients, the great delicacies like shark's fin. dried scallops, dried mushrooms, ginseng, and X O Sauce, are generally behind the check-out counter, sometimes in boxes w ith plastic covers and. occasionally, in a locked glass cabinet. Though you can find inexpensive mushrooms on the regular store shelves, behind the checkout counter you 'll find a variety o f more expensive mushrooms at a range o f prices. It goes without saying that the more expensive the mushrooms, the better the quality; the flavor w ill al­ ways be more intense. This is true o f the dried oysters, scallops, tangerine peel, dong quai, and gin­ seng too. For everyday cooking, use the less expensive ingredients, but for special occasions it’s nice to treat yourself. And, because the flavor is so much more concentrated, you can use less. If you would like more inform ation about the differences in quality o f herbs like ginseng (and w hy they vary so w idely in cost), there are herb shops where English is spoken, but understand that the se­ lection o f herbs is an art in itself and 110 one can provide a quick understanding o f how to shop for them. In general, more clerks speak Cantonese than any other Chinese dialect.

H E R E A R E S O M E B A S I C G R O U P I N G S O F I N G R E D I E N T S IN C H IN E SE G R O C E R Y STORES: • the refrigerator section carries fresh egg noodles (except fresh broad rice noodles, which are sold in bakeries, stores that sell fresh tofu, or at the checkout counters o f some grocery stores), won ton skins, spring roll wrappers, firm tofu, silken tofu, five spice tofu, fried bean curd, soy milk

FREQUENTLY SHELVED TOGETHER: • white sesame seeds, black sesame seeds, green mung beans, yellow mung beans, Chinese small red beans, adzuki beans, peanuts, dried chestnuts, soybeans • thin soy sauce, black soy sauce, sesame oil. oyster flavored sauce, SI1.10 Using rice cooking wine • red rice vinegar, sweetened black vinegar, black vinegar • rock sugar, packages and open bins o f slab brown candy • hoisin sauce, plum sauce, ground bean sauce • tapioca starch, pearl tapioca, glutinous rice flour, rice flour • skinless lotus seeds, whole blanched lotus seeds, foxnut, barley, peeled almond seeds, lily bulb • rice verm icelli, cellophane noodles, water chestnut starch • dried oysters, dried shrimp • chili garlic sauce, chili sauce, chili oil • cliing Ik>leung (herb soup m ix), dned sweet potato, wolfberries, dried yam. dong quai, ginseng • five spice powder, star anise, licorice, cinnamon bark. Sichuan peppercorns, dried ginger • cans o f w hole baby corn, straw mushrooms, bamboo shoots • salted turnip, Sichuan preserved vegetable • dried red dates, dried brown dates, dried black dates 242

THE F O L L O W I N G I N G R E D I E N T S D O N O T B E L O N G TO A N Y L O G I C A L G R O U P I N G . S O Y O U ’LL N E E D T O S E A R C H F O R T H E M : • dried tangerine peel. Chinese dried black beans, stick dried bean curd, sheet dried bean curd, seaweed, wood ears, cloud ears, snow fungus, dragon eye, dried figs. gjngko nuts, sweetened red bean paste, red wet bean curd, white wet bean curd, black moss, bamboo leaves

As you approach a Chinese produce stand, you may be overwhelmed by what at first glance seems to be an unfamiliar and unusual array o f vegetables. But, in fact, if you look more closely, you’ll see familiar produce like peppers, carrots, and cabbage scattered among the water chestnuts, water spinach, and lotus root. And for the rest, the photograph (“ Fresh Vegetables” in the photo insert) il­ lustrates every vegetable mentioned in this book except for amaranth. Look carefully at the items photographed and use the illustration as a reference when shopping for produce. Sometimes you w ill encounter produce not pictured in this book, such as jicam a or small taro roots; most Chinese peo­ ple do not use these vegetables daily so I have not included them. There are indeed at least four different kinds o f bok choy that arc available. H ow ever, I have chosen the most common and popu­ lar variety to show. Undoubtedly, you w ill also see exotic fruits, such as finger bananas, fresh lychee nuts, fresh dragon eye, or maybe even the king o f fruits, the durian; be adventuresome and try them. Know ing in w hich shops to find the ingredients is also critical. M any o f the ingredients men­ tioned in the Glossary that follows can be found in both Chinese grocery stores and herb shops. This is because the Chinese consider many mild herbs to be basic food ingredients: for example, peeled almond seeds, black moss, cinnamon bark, cloud ears, dried dates (brown, red. and black), dragon eye, dried figs. dried ginger, licorice root, lily bulb, lotus seeds, pearl barley, snow fungus, tanger­ ine peel, wood ears, dong quai, foxnut, ginseng, dried sweet potato, wolfberries, and dried yam. The quality in an herb shop is generally better. Again, use the photograph (“ Foods w ith M edicinal At­ tributes” in the photo insert) and read the Glossary description carefully. In America, I have only been in the Chinatowns o f San Francisco, Chicago, and N ew York, and there are slight differences in how basic grocery items are sold in each city. In N ew York, fresh broad rice noodles are sold in shops that specialize in tofu and fresh noodle products. In San Fran­ cisco, you’ll only find broad rice noodles in Chinese bakeries or at the checkout counter o f some supermarkets. Chicago has the noodles at the checkout counter in a few markets. M y U ncle Sam tells me that in Los Angeles every large supermarket carries fresh nee noodles. In N ew York and San Francisco, Chinese butcher shops carry Sm ithficld ham steaks. Chinese sausage, Chinese bacon, and black chickens, in addition to fresh meat and poultry. In Chicago, Chinese butcher shops and fish markets are less common, so supermarkets seem to carry a little o f everything, from dry ingre­ dients and herbs, to meat, fish, and Chinese vegetables. O f course, it’s better to buy these items in a butcher shop than in a Chinese grocery store. There are a few cuts that you can only find in a Chinese butcher shop. Fork spareribs that have been cut into one-inch pieces for steaming, Sm ithficld ham steaks, Chinese sausage. Chinese bacon, outside flank, black chickens, and beef tendons arc abundant in Chinese butcher shops and are def­ initely not available in a Western butcher shop. Black chickens, also known as silky chicken or black meat chicken, is, in fact, a game bird and is only found in some Chinese butcher shops; American butchers are totally unfamiliar w ith them. Outside flank is a popular item in all Chinese butcher 243

shops. D o not attempt to buy this in an American butcher shop; it is not Hank steak. Ground pork butt is another common ingredient in a Chinese butcher shop, w hile an American butcher w ill probably have to specially grind this for you. I f you have access to a Chinese butcher shop, the meat and poultry arc generally very fresh and less expensive. In N ew York. Chinese butcher shops often earn.' salted duck eggs, fresh egg noodles, and won ton skins; in San Francisco, butcher shops only carryr meat and poultry’. Fish markets, whether Chinese or Am erican, arc the same on both coasts except for the variations o f local fish. The only exception is that fresh frog is available in Chinese fish markets on both coasts; Am erican gourmet fish markets w ill only occasionally have frog legs. Chinese liquor like rice cooking w ine is available in Chinese grocery stores but for more spe­ cific liquors such as M ei Kuei I m Chiew liquor or Tung Kiang Glutinous R ic e W in e, go to a C h i­ nese liquor store. Some recipes call for cooked foods like barbecued pork, salt roasted chicken, soy sauce chicken, roast pork.and white cut chicken, w hich are readily available in Chinese delis, and at some restaurants, where you’ll often see them hanging in the windows. If you do not live near a Chinatow n, the recipes provided in "D u tifu l Daughter Returns H om e” (page 170) w ill help you make these dishes at home. D on't forget to look for specialty dishes and pots and pans w hile you’re in Chinatown, as they are very inexpensive. Most Chinatowns have hardware shops and specialty cookware shops that carry a large selection o f dishes, bamboo and metal steamer pots, soup tureens, sandpots, bamboo chopsticks for cooking, and cast-iron and carbon-steel woks. Larger Chinese supermarkets w ill have a smaller selection o f the same merchandise. The popular shallow bowls w ith the painted fish used for steaming (sec “ The Art o f Steaming.” page 33) arc found in various sizes next to rice bowls, noodle bowls, platters, and condiment dishes. Here you’ll also find bamboo steamers in all sizes and the lOVi-inch-wide metal steamer pot w ith two tiers and a domed lid. D o n ’t forget to look for an ingenious tool— a three-pronged plate lifter for rem oving a hot plate from the steamer. There are also Chinese-style tureens, w hich are ceramic

1. 3-cup individual tureen with double M 2. 7-cup ture«n with porcelain spoon and lid 3. l4‘ -skillet with rack, shallow bowl for steaming, and piate lifter 4. Bamboo «earner with ltd In stainless-steel wok

5. 10V** aluminum doubletier «earner 6. 14' flat-bottomed carbon« e e l wok with cleaning brush 7. 14* flat-bottomed castiron wok with metal ladle

8. 2-quart sandpot with lid 9. 5-quart sandpot with lid

244

pots w ith a lid specifically designed for double-steaming such dishes as Dragon Eye and Lotus Seed “ Tea" (page 206), Double-Steamed Black Chicken Soup (page 235), and Korean Ginseng Soup (page 232). Westcrn-stylc tureens cannot be substituted because the tureen must have a tight-fitting lid that prevents vapors from escaping. The standard Chinese-style tureens come in different sizes starting at about seven cups. The smaller tureens have about a three-cup capacity and even have a second, interior lid in addition to the domed lid to ensure that no flavor escapes. This interior lid is also useful because it prevents the smell o f herbs like dong qnai or ginseng from lingering in your kitchen. Sandpots are available in a variety o f sizes, from two quarts to six quarts, and are used for braised dishes (Sandpot Braised Lamb, page 62, and Seafood Sandpot, page 60) and for cooking soups (Homemade Chicken Broth,

1. C h in «« c W i knrfe 2. M e « cleaver 3. r cook» knife 4. T SintuktxJipjneje cook's knife

page 234). The pots arc cream-colored ceramic w ith a rough, unglazed exterior (sort o f sandy tcxtured, hence the pot’s name) and a dark brown, glazed interior; some sandpots have a large wire mesh on the out­ side. Be sure to examine the interior o f the pots for any cracks to avoid a pot that w ill leak. In specialty cookware shops in Chinatow n, you’ll find a large variety o f cleavers. The traditional Chinese cleaver is carbon steel, but there are now high-carbon stainless-steel vegetable and meat cleavers, which are much easier to care for. H ow ever, it is not necessary to use a Chinese cleaver. There is a huge variety o f high-quality chef knives and meat cleavers available in American specialty cookware shops. These knives ("Shreds o f Ginger Like Blades o f Grass,’’ page 47), generally from Europe, are hand-forged high-carbon stainless steel, and 1 feel they are o f better quality than the knives from China. Finally, there arc the traditional twelve- and fourteen-inch Chinese cast-iron and carbon-steel woks that are available with flat and round bottoms. Th ey require seasoning and special care in wash­ ing (see “ The Breath o f a W o k ." page 20, for more information on types o f woks and the care o f a traditional w ok). H ow ever, do not forget that there are fabulous cast-iron and stainless-steel woks available in American specialty cookware shops. Although carbon-steel woks are better conductors o f heat, they are more trouble to take care of. Look for a flat-bottomed w ok with sides that flare out and be sure to buy a lid. too. N ever buy the round-bottomed woks, as they cannot get hot enough on a home stove. Next to the woks in Chinatown, you 'll also find metal spatulas, shallow strainers. Chinese ladles, plate lifters for steaming, extra-long bamboo chopsticks perfect for deepfrying, and brushes for cleaning a cast-iron or carbon-steel wok. As you wander about Chinatown in pursuit o f your ingredients and equipment, enjoy the as­ signment o f hunting down your treasures. Let your curiosity lead you and follow your instincts, for you never know what w ill turn up. I never tire o f going to Chinatow n; there are streets I have walked down hundreds o f times, but I am always on the alert for an unusual ingredient, a freshly opened box o f fragrant mangoes, a new restaurant, or a treasure to be unearthed. 245

GLOSSARY

A dzuki Beans

(zeck sin dul): Small, elongated red beans, about one-fourth inch long, w ith a tiny line.

D o not confuse these w ith Chinese small red beans, w hich are the same color and also have a little line, but differ in having a rounder shape. In a Chinese grocery store the tw o beans arc generally la­ beled red beans, but you can always tell them apart by the distinguishing oblong shape. Adzuki beans are sometimes available in gourmet and health-food markets. They arc mainly used in soups in C h i­ nese cooking. Store in an airtight ja r in a cool, dark, dry cupboard. Am.ir.i

(yea i choy): This vegetable resembles a bunch o f young spinach, except for a splash o f bur­

gundy color in the center o f the flat leaves. It is sold in bunches and is best in the spring to early summer. B y midsummer, the stems arc tough. Use in stir-fries or in soups. Amaranth is rich in iron. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for up to two days. B a b y C o rn

(sai sook m ai): This canned baby com is tw o to three inches long. The com should be

drained and rinsed before using. Store unused portion in the refrigerator in a plastic container, cov­ ered w ith cold water, for up to three days. B a m b o o L e a v e s ,d rie d

(Jook yeep): These leaves are sold bundled in twelve-ounce packages, about fif­

teen to eighteen inches long. They are used to wrap Savory R ic e Tamales (page 152) and Sweet R ice Tamales (page 154). Store in a cool, dark, dry cupboard for up to one year. B a m b o o Sh o o ts

(^jook soon): Fresh bamboo shoots arc sometimes available, but canned arc more con­

venient to use. The vegetable is pale yellow and is available in cans whole, sliced, or shredded. Rinse or blanch the bamboo shoots for one minute to remove the metallic canned taste before cooking. Unused portion should be stored in the refrigerator in a plastic container, covered w ith cold water, for up to one week; change the water daily. B arle y. Jo b 's T e a r

(yee m ai): A different variety than Western barley, this is sold in eight-ounce pack­

ages. H ow ever, if it is not available, use regular barley. M ainly used in soups. Store in an airtight jar in a cool, dark, dr)’ cupboard. See Fried Bean Curd. Sheet Dried Bean Curd, Stick Dried Bean Curd, Tofu, and W et Bean Curd.

Bo.tn C u rd .

B e a n S p ro u t •. (gna

choy): There are two varieties o f Chinese sprouts: mung bean sprouts, which arc

more com m only available, and soybean sprouts. For either, choose fat, plump sprouts no more than two-and-one-half inches long. Avoid long, string)', brown, and lim p sprouts, indications that they

246

arc old. O n page 80 you w ill find a recipe for sprouting your own soybean sprouts at home; you can use the same method for mung bean sprouts. M un g B e a n s S p ro u ts

(gna choy): These have a head that is the size o f a grain o f barley, about one-

fourth inch wide. Traditional Cantonese cooks like to remove the head and tail before cooking. (dai dulgna choy): These arc more nutritious, being high in protein. The head, w hich is the size o f a small je lly bean, about one-half inch, is the most nutritious part o f the

S o y b e a n Sp ro u ts

sprout. D o not cat raw soybean sprouts, as they arc toxic. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for no more than one day. B it t e r M elo n

(leung qwa or foo qwa): Popular in the summer, this vegetable is light or dark green and

about eight to ten inches long. The melon is, in fact, bitter in taste because it contains quinine. The light-colored melon is milder than the dark-green bitter melon, and is best paired w ith strong fla­ vors like Chinese dried black beans, beef, pork, or chicken. Some cooks like to blanch the melon to reduce the bitterness before cooking. Halve the melon, remove the seeds, and blanch the cut halves. Note that some melons have a creamy white pulp w hile others have a bright orange pulp, but they w ill taste the same. Choose melons that are fat at the bottom and taper slightly. The skin should have thick ridges. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper for three to five days. B la c k M oss

(fat choy): Also known as seaweed hair, dried black moss, or hair vegetable, because it looks like

very fine black hair. This ingredient is prim arily used around Chinese N ew Year’s in the vegetarian dish Ja i (page 126). The name o f the ingredient./» choy, is the same as the greeting for N ew Year’s, “ Gung hay fat choy," and. therefore, has auspicious meaning. It is found in Chinese grocery stores or herb shops in plastic packages or in bulk. Soak in water w ith a little oil before using. Store in an air­ tight jar in a cool. dark, dry cupboard. Bok Choy

(bolt choy): This member o f the cabbage family is available in several varieties, and is pop­

ular for stir-fries. The most common variety found in Chinatow n (see “ Fresh Vegetables” in the photo insert) is sold in bunches about eight to eleven inches long, with white stalks and unblem­ ished dark green leaves. The best bok choy is called choy sum, or heart o f bok choy, and is more del­ icate. American supermarkets always seem to carry bok choy that is large, up to twenty inches long and, therefore, much older and tougher. O ther varieties that have begun to appear in the last few years are Shanghai spoon bok choy, oil seed rape vegetable (yul choy), and tatsoi. Choose bok choy with tightly closed buds. Avoid any open flowers, yellow leaves, or stems that arc beginning to brown, all signs that the vegetable is old. Bok choy is available all year round but is best in the w in ­ ter months. It is rich in calcium. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper for up to three days. B ro w n C a n d y

(peen long): These slabs o f sugar are not a confection, but a type o f sugar. They are

available in one-pound plastic packages, sometimes called broum sugar, and arc also sold loose in bins in some markets. The slabs arc about five inches long, onc-and-onc-fourth inches wide, and a scant

247

one-half inch thick, w ith three different-colored layers. It is used mostly for desserts and sweet soups, and is said to remove toxins from the body. Store in a cool. dark, dry cupboard. Chayote (/«cheung at dul foo): This is custardlike and is more delicate. It is mainly used in soups, and is available in sealed packages in the refrigerator section o f Chinese grocery stores, supermar­ kets, and health-food stores.

Vegetable oil (y u l): Chinese cooks have typically cooked w ith vegetable or peanut oil. Today, many families, adapting to the latest health information on fats, are using mild or light olive oil for stirfries and deep-fat frying. O live oil. rich in monounsaturated fats, offers many health benefits, and it is now stocked in many Chinese markets. N ever use extra virgin olive oil, as the fruity taste o f olives would not be appropriate for Chinese cooking.

fit

V in e g a r

((ho): Chinese vinegar is prim arily made from glutinous rice. Store at room temperature in

a cool. dark, dry cupboard for up to one year.

B la c k V in e g a r

(hock naw mai (ho): This is also known as black rice vinegar sauce. It is m ainly used for

Pickled Pig’s Feet (page 238) and is sold in twenty-ounce bottles. Store at room temperature.

R e d R ice V in e g a r

(dai hoong seel cho): This is mainly used as a dipping sauce.

T fti 1.r S w e e te n e d B la c k V in e g a r

(teem ding teem cho): This is also known as sweetened black rice vinegar. It

is m ainly used for Pickled Pig’s Feet (page 238) and is sold in twenty-one-ounce bottles. Store at room temperature. 26S

W ater Chestnut,fresh (ma tai): A bulblikc dark brown vegetable, lightly covered in dirt, water chest­ nuts are about one-and-one-half inches around and are about one inch high. They are grown un­ derwater in mud. and have a thin skin. Choose water chestnuts that are heavy and firm. They must be peeled with a paring knife before cooking, w hich is labor intensive but worth the effort. W ater chestnuts have a sweet flavor and a crunchy, crisp texture, like an apple. The flesh should be white and not yellow or ivory. They are excellent in stir-fries and dumplings and arc delicious raw. They are extremely high in potassium. N ever use canned water chestnuts, for they are inferior in taste. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for up to one week.

W ater Chestnut Flour (ma tai fun): Also known as water chestnut powder or water chestnut starch, it is sold in small cight-and-four-fifths-ounce boxes. The best brand is Fan Tang Brand, although highquality water chestnut flour is difficult to find; it is often stale and sometimes black if the water chest­ nuts were not thoroughly peeled before being made into flour. Store in an airtight jar in a cool. dry. dark cupboard for up to one year.

W ater Spinach (toong sum clioy): These are sold in big one-and-one-half-pound bunches. The entire stalk is about eighteen inches in length, and is pale green w ith slightly darker green leaves. Most of the stalk is made up o f a hollow stem w ith skinny, pointed leaves. W ater spinach is always broken into two-inch lengths and cookcd w ith garlic and wet bean curd (fu yu) in stir-fries. It is most pop­ ular during the summer. O nce cooked, the leaves taste a little like spinach. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for no more than two days, as water spinach wilts easily. Watercress (sai yeung choy): O ne o f the most popular vegetables for soups, watercress is available yearround in Chinese and American markets. Choose dark green bunches, about six inches long, with young, delicate leaves and tender stems. Watercress has a distinct mustard flavor and a significant amount o f beta carotene and calcium. Store in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for up to four to five day's. W et Bean Curd (fu yu): Also known as fermented bean curd, and sometimes bean sauce (although this is different from ground bean sauce, page 254), wet bean curd comes in two main varieties and, as with certain other ingredients, the English labeling w ill not help you. You have to know what they look like: O ne is beige-colored and the other red. They are both sold in jars in Chinese grocery stores. W et bean curd is chccsclikc, because it has been fermented and is very flavorful; no more than a few cubes are ever used in one dish. O nce opened it must be refrigerated; it w ill keep indef­ initely. A favorite brand is Chan M oon Kec. W et Bean Curd, white (bock fu yu): These are one-inch beige-colored cubes o f fermented bean curd in liquid. The bean curd is made from fermented soybeans, salt, and rice w ine and is mainly used in stir-fries. T h e ja r is seldom marked “ w h ite." This also is available spiced with dried red chilies.

266

i . ] "i U W e t B e a n C u rd , red

( nom y u ): These are one-inch red cubes o f fermented bean curd in a thick

red sauce. This bean curd is made from fermented soybeans, salt, rice w ine, and red rice and is mainly used for braises. The jar is not always marked "red ." /3

'f ;j

W heat Starch (du ng fu n ): This looks like flour and is used to make the wrappers for shrimp dumplings. It is sold in fourteen- to sixteen-ounce bags; a popular brand is M an Sang F T Y . Store as you would flour, in a cool. dark, dry cupboard for up to one year.

W i n t e r M elo n

( doong qw a ): This is about the size o f a medium to large watermelon. Choose winter

melon that is as old as possible; signs o f age are a heavy white powder coating on the hard rind. If the melon is sold by the wedge, a mature melon w ill have seeds that pull away from the flesh. Most people buy a wedge weighing one to three pounds, but a small melon can be bought, carved, and filled w ith chicken broth and steamed (Fancy W in ter M elon Soup, page 143). W in ter melon rind, seeds, and pulp are said to have medicinal attnbutes. and are often cooked in soups. I f the rind is to be cooked, it must be w ell scrubbed and rinsed. Choose cut w inter melon that has a clean smell. W inter melon is m ainly used for braises and soups. W hen cooked, the flesh becomes translucent. Store slices in the refrigerator vegetable crisper bin for up to three days. W hole winter melon w ill keep in the refrigerator one week. te - T W o lfb e rrie s , d rie d

( g a y z e e ): Wolfberries look like oval, red raisins, about one-half inch long and

one-eighth inch wide. They should be a bright red color and not deep burgundy, w hich shows age. Wolfberries have a small pit that docs not need to be removed before cooking. T h ey have a signif­ icant amount o f iron and calcium; Chinese people believe they arc good for your eyes. They arc used mainly in soups and are found in Chinese grocery stores in plastic bags, or sold in bulk in herb shops. Store in an airtight jar in a cool, dark, dry cupboard. $

&

jk .

W o n Ton Skin s (iw un tun p a y ):

The fourteen- to sixteen-ounce packages o f paper-thin, silky dough arc

found in the refrigerator section o f Chinese grocery stores. The dough, made o f flour, egg. and water, is available in threc-and-onc-half-inch squares or rounds, about one hundred to a package. Square won ton skins are used for traditional W on Ton (page 158), the round skins arc used for Pork Dumplings (page 156). The dough can vary in thickness: The thinner dough is used for boiled or steamed dumplings, the thicker skins for deep-fried won tons. W hen using won ton skins, cover the skins w ith a damp kitchen towel to prevent the dough from drying out. Refrigerate for up to five days or freeze.

* *

Also known as dehydrated vegetable or sea vegetable, these fungi are three to four times the size o f cloud cars, and much cruder in appearance. The pieces can be as big as tw o by three inches, and are black on one side and look like tan suede on the underside. The fungi arc

W o o d E a rs (ntook yee):

about one-eighth inch thick, and arc woodier and harder than cloud ears. W ood ears arc prepared

267

like cloud ears, and require soaking in cold water before cooking. They, too, w ill expand to tw o to three times their original size. W ood cars arc sold in large six-ounce plastic bags in grocery stores, and are also available in bulk in herb shops. They are used in braised dishes, in particular Chicken W in e Soup (pane 236). Store in an airtight jar in a cool, dark, dry cupboard indefinitely.

X O f X O Sau ce

(xo (lieung): Relatively new, this condiment sauce has become the rage in Hong Kong,

and is called the Caviar o f the O rient. The X O in the name pays homage to X O brandy, w hich is revered by the Chinese (there is no brandy in the sauce, however). Made by Lee Kum Kce, it’s a mixture o f dried scallops, shrimp, shallots, shrimp roc. soybean oil. soy sauce, garlic, and seasonings, and is delicious as a condiment for dumplings or as a seasoning in stir-fries. It is also available in an extra-hot version. ■;{i

iii

Y am , d ried

(u-(ji san): Also known as Chinese yam, this is sold in creamy white slices, two to eight

inches long and one-half inch thick. It is one o f the primary ingredients used in the famous Four Flavors Soup (page 216) and is a mild Chinese herb that is used year-round for the spleen and stom­ ach. It is sold in Chinese grocery stores in boxes and in bulk in herb shops. Store in an airtight jar in a cool, dark, dry cupboard indefinitely.

%

it -k Y e llo w M un g B e a n s, D rie d

{look dul hoy pay) : Also known as peeled mung beans, these beans look like small

yellow split peas, and are sold in fourteen-ounce plastic bags. They are green mung beans that have been hulled, but green mung beans cannot be substituted for the yellow. They are used in Savory R ice Tamales (page 152). Store in an airtight ja r in a cool. dark, dry cupboard for up to one year.

MAIL-ORDER SOURCES I always prefer to shop for ingredients and equipment. You should only use mail order if nothing is available in your area. C H IN E S E A M E R IC A N T R A D IN G C O .. IN C .

U N ’S SIS T ER A S S O C IA T E S C O R P.

U W A JIM A Y A

91 Mulberry Street New York. N Y 10013

4 Bowery

5 19 6th Avenue South Seattle.WA 98104 -

(212) 267-5224

(212) 962-5417

1-800-889-1928

Fax:(212)619-7446

Fax: (212) 587-8826

(206) 624-6248

This is my favorite shop in

This is a fantastic herb shop where

Chinatown. The staff is helpful and they speak English. They carry every

English is spoken. Visa and Mastercard

This shop carries an amazing selection

accepted and they will ship U PS.

o f Asian produce-from fresh water

New York. N Y 10013

Fax: (206) 624-6915

kind o f ingredient called for in this book (including the herbs) except for

chestnuts, to winter melon, gmgko

fresh produce and meats. They also have a wide selection o f traditional

They also have some Chinese ingredi­ ents, but specialize mainly in Japanese

cooking equipment. It's best to send a check with your order, or orders can

products. Ask for their brochure. Visa. Mastercard, and American Express

be sent by U P S C .0.1).

accepted and they will ship U PS.

268

nuts, Chinese broccoli, and lotus root.

INDEX N u m b e rs in italics r e fe r t o illu stra tio n s

adzuki beans. 246 Herbal W in te r M elon Soup.

220

bamboo leaves, dned. 246 Savory R ic e Tamales, 152-53

shopping for. 241 almonds, see almond seeds, peeled

Sw eet R ic e Tamales. 154-55 bamboo shoots. 246 bamboo steamers, 35, 36. 244.

almond seeds, peeled (dried al­ monds, dned almond seeds,

barbecued dishes:

o r apricot seeds) (hung yen),

2 44 Pork, Chinese, 176-77 Spareribs, 178-79

w hite (bockfu yu), 267 bean sauce, see ground bean sauce bean sprouts. 246-47 vin-vang balance and. 192

see also mung bean sprouts; soybean sprout(s) bean thread: dried (sheet dried bean curd). 261

258 Double-Steam ed Asian Pears,

barley. Jo b 's Tear, 246

dried (stick dried bean curd),

208 Double-Steamed Papaya and

D ried Sw eet Potato Soup, 204 bean curd:

263 noodles, see cellophane noo-

Sn o w Fungus Soup, 207 D ried Fig, and Apple Soup.

213 shopping for. 241 in soothing (yuii) soups. 194 Soup. 203 amaranth. 246 Stir-Fried, 92 angelica (Angelicae sinensis), see

dong (]uai Apple, D ried Fig. and Alm ond S o u p .213 apricot seeds, see almond seeds, peeled Asian Pears, Double-Steamed. 208 Asparagus w ith Shrim p, StirFried. 29

Buddha's D elight, 126-27 Foxnut Soup, 198 fried (fried gluten, bean curd puffs, or fried tofu). 253 Sandpot Braised Lam b. 62-63 sheet dried (dehydrated bean curd or dned bean thread), 261 soaking. 101 stick dried (dehydrated bean curd or dned bean thread), 263 stick dried, in G ingko N ut Porridge. 222-23

see also bean curd, w et; tofu bean curd, w et (ferm ented bean curd or bean sauce) (fit yu), 266-67

August M oon Festival, 84

Braised Taro and Chinese Ba­ con. 89

bacon. Chinese (winter-cured pork) (lop yok), 248-49

Buddha's Delight 126-27

Chinese Brocco li and, StirFried. 88 Lotus-Root Stir-Fry, 84-85 making at home, 182-83 Taro and. Braised. 89 Taro R o o t Cake, 130-31 Turnip Cake, 128-29

N om Yu and Taro D uck, Braised, 148-49 N om Yu Peanuts, 136 N om Yu Spareribs, 56 red (now yu), 267

dlc(s) beans, see adzuki beans; black beans; long beans; mung beans; red bean(s); soybeans beef: Bitter M elon and. Stir-Fried. 96 Braised. 54-55 C h o w Fun. 31 G ingko N u t Porridge, 222-23 as a restorative food. 227 Tangerine. Steamed. 40 Tender, on R ic e , 12 Tom ato. 25 and W h ite Turnip Soup. 240 Bin g Shue, 123 bitter m elon (leung qwa or foo

qu\ i), 247 and Beef. Stir-Fried, 96 selecting, 75 black bean sauce: Clam s in, Stir-Fried, 111 Steamed Sole w ith, 43 Steamed Spareribs w ith , 41 black beans, Chinese dried. 249 B e e f C h o w Fun. 31

shopping for, 241

Steamed Sole w ith Black Bean Sauce. 43

Stir-Fried Am aranth, 92 Stir-Fried W ater Spinach, 93

Steamed Spareribs w ith Black Bean Sauce, 41

269

Stir-Fried Asparagus w ith Shrim p. 29 Stir-Fried Clam s in Black Bean Sauce. 111 black chicken(s) (silky): shopping for. 243 Soup. Double-Steam ed. 235 black dates, dried, 251 black fungus, see cloud cars black moss (seaweed hair, dned black moss, or hair veg­ etable) (fa t (hoy), 247 Buddha’s D elight. 126-27 black mushrooms, see mush­ rooms. Chinese dried black vinegar (black rice vinegar sauce). 265 Pickled Pig ’s Feet. 238-39 sweetened (sweetened black nee vinegar), 266 boiled dishes: Peanut R ic e Dum plings, 18-19 R ic e Tamales, Savory, 152-54 R ic e Tamales. Sw eet. 154-55 Savory R ic e Dum plings. 16-17 W o n Ton. 158-59 yin-yang balance and. 192

see also poached dishes; soup(s) bok choy (bok (hoy), xii. 247 Clear Soup Noodles. 67 selecting. 109 Stir-Fried. 109

bow foods, see restorative (bow) foods bowls, for steaming. 35. 36, 244,

244 braised dishes: Beef, 54-55 Cabbage and Mushroom s. 79 Chestnuts and Mushrooms. w ith C hicken. 64-65 C hicken, Lem on, 59

D uck. W est Lake. 146-47 Fuzzy M elon w ith Scallops. 99 Lam b. Sandpot. 62-63

Butterfly Fish and Bean Sprouts. Stir-Fried, Baba's, 28-29

M ushroom s. 78 Seafood Sandpot. 60-61 Spareribs, N om Y u . 56 Sparcnbs. Sw eet and Sour. 55 Taro and Chinese Bacon, 89 breakfast dishes:

cabbage: Buddha's D elight. 126-27 Mushroom s and. Braised. 79 Napa (Peking cabbage). 256-57

C hicken Porridge, 13 G ingko N u t Pom dge, 222-23

Napa, in Seafood Sandpot. 60-61

jo o k (porridge or congee),

Napa, for steaming. 35

194-95 N e w Year’s Cake. 132-33 Taro R o o t Cake. 130-31 Turkey Porridge. 188

N oodle Soup. 69 Pot Stickers. 160-61 Spring R o lls. 166-67 Vegetable Lo M e in , 97

T urnip Cake. 128-29

W est Lake D uck. 146-47

W ater Chestnut Cake. 134-35

see also bok choy

broccoli. Chinese (Chinese kale), 249 and Bacon. Stir-Fried, 88 selecting, 74 Stir-Fried. 87 broth:

cakes (savory): N e w Year’s, 132-33 O yster and W ater Chestnut Pork. Steamed. 37 Pork, w ith Salted D uck Egg. Steamed. 38

C hicken. Hom em ade. 234

Scallion. 168-69

chicken, homemade vs.

Taro R o o t. 130-31 Turnip. 128-29 W ater Chestnut. 134-35

canned, x vii as a restorative food. 227. 228 brow n bean sauce or paste (ground bean sauce), 254 brow n candy (brow n sugar), 247—48 D ned Sweet Potato Soup. 204 G reen M ung Bean Soup. 197 N e w Year’s Cake, 132-33 paste for skin conditions, 204 Pickled Pig ’s Feet, 238-39 Sesame Balls. 138-39 in soothing (yun) soups, 194 Sweetened R e d Bean Soup.

201 Sw eet Potato and Lotus Seed Soup. 205

C hicken, R o ck Sugar Ginger. 58

W alnut Soup. 196 brow n dates, dned (m ut zoe), 252

D uck. N om Y u and Taro. 148-49

Buddha’s D elight, 126-27 butcher shops. Chinese. 243-44

270

butter, 192

cakes (sw eet). Steamed Sponge. 46 Cam acho. D avid. 110 C arrot Chayote Soup. 217 Cashews. C h icken w ith, 24 cassia bark (cinnam on bark), 251 Soy Sauce C hicken, 174-75 celebratory dishes. 103-88 Bok C hoy. Stii^-Fned. 109 Buddha's D elight. 126-27 C hicken. W h ite C u t. 110-11 Clam s in Black Bean Sauce, Stir-Fned, 111 Eight Precious Sw eet R ic e .

120-21 Lettuce. Stir-Fned G arlic. 117 N ew Year's Cake. 132-33 N ew Year's traditions and. 123-25

Oyster-Vegetable Lettuce Wraps. 116-17 Fork, Sw eet and Sour, 119 Scallops w ith Snow Peas and Peppers. Stir-Fried, 122 Sesame Balls. 138-39 Shark’s Fin Soup. 114-15 Shrim p, Pepper and Salt. 118 Snow Pea Shoots. Stir-Fried. 112 Squab. Glazed Roast. 113 Steelhead Fish, Poached. 108-9 Taro R o o t Cake, 130-31 T urnip Cake, 128-29 W alnuts, Candied. 137 W ater Chestnut Cake, 134-35 cellophane noodle(s) (glass noo­ dles. bean thread noodles, green bean thread, or verm i­ c e lli), 257 Buddha's D elight, 126-27 Cabbage Soup, 69 Fuzzy M elon w ith Scallops. Braised, 99 Seafood Sandpot, 60-61 176-77 chayote (m irliton). 248

O ut

Sim ,

C arrot Soup, 217 C h e C hung N g. 130 ch ef’s knives, Chinese. 49-50, 245, 245 chestnuts, 248 and Mushroom s Braised w ith C hickcn, 64-65 R ic e Stuffing. M am a’s. 186-87 W est Lake D uck. 146-47 see also water chestnuts, fresh Chicago C hinatow n. 243 chicken: Am erican Ginseng Soup. 225 w ith Bab y C o m and Straw M ushroom s. Stir-Fried, 26 black, see black chicken(s) Broth, Hom em ade, 234 broth, homemade vs. canned, xvii w ith Cashews. 24

Chestnuts and Mushroom s Braised w ith. 64-65 chopping, xvi. 49

produce shopping for. 73-76. 243 restorative (bow) foods. 226-40

C lear Soup Noodles. 67 and C orn Soup. 65 D runken. 52-53 Lem on. 59

rice dishes. 3-19 shopping for specialty ingredi­

w ith L ily Buds. C loud Ears,

228 steaming in, 33-46 stir-frying in. 20-32 vegetable dishes, 73-99

and Mushroom s. Steamed. 44 Porridge. 13 as a restorative food. 227-28 R o c k Sugar Ginger. 58

ents for. 241-45 soothing (yutt) foods. 193-225,

Chinese N ew Year's foods and

Salt-Roasted. 173

traditions. 123-39. 171-72 breakfast foods. 124

So y Sauce, 174-75 silky, see black chicken(s)

Buddha's D elight. 126-27 celebration on Rom an calen­

Tender, on R ic e , 10-11 W h ite C u t, 110-11 W in e Soup, 236-37 W ings, Stuffed, 150-51 vin-yang balance and, 192 chili garlic sauce (chili bean sauce or ch ili garlic paste). 248

dar. 171 C hicken, W h ite C u t. 110-11 Chinese N ew Year’s meal. 107 Clam s in Black Bean Sauce. Stir-Fned, 111 Eight Precious Sw eet R ic e ,

120-21

chili o il, 248

/a t choy and, 247

Chinese Barbecued Pork, 176-77

Glazed Roast Squab, 113

Chinese Bacon, see bacon,

Lantern Festival. 124 leftovers from N e w Year’s Eve, 124

Chinese Chinese cooking: celebratory dishes, 103-88 for Chinese N e w Year's and N e w Year’s Eve, 105-11, 116-17, 119, 123-39, 171-72 deli foods, 173-83 dim sum, 141, 142 equipment shopping for. 244-45 everyday. 1-99 glossary for. 246-68 as healing art, x viii. 189-240 health benefits of. xii. 5 knife skills in. 47-50

Kitchen G od. 125

lettuce, sym bolic, for. 141 lysee, 123-24 N e w Year's Cake. 132-33 oranges, sym bolic, for. 141 Oyster-Vegetable Lettuce W raps. 116-17 Pepper and Salt Shrim p. 118 poached fish. 105-7 Pork, Sw eet and Sour. 119 Sesame Balls. 138-39 Shark’s Fin Soup. 114-15 Steelhead Fish. Poached. 108-9 Stir-Fried B o k C hoy, 109

labor-intensive delicacies, 140-69

Stir-Fried G arlic Lettuce, 117 Stir-Fried Scallops w ith Snow Peas and Peppers, 122

as m editation. 100-102

Stir-Fried Snow Pea Shoots,

m ulticourse meals and. xviii

112

Index

271

superstitions and. 171-72 Taro Root Cake. 130-31 tray of togetherness, 123 Turnip Cake, 128-29 Water Chestnut Cake. 134-33 Chinese Sausage, see sausage. Chinese ehing bo leuttg, 250 Soup.214 Ching Ming Festival, 110 chives, 230-51 Chinese (gul (hoy), 250 Chinese, Stir-Fried Egg and, 85 flowering garlic (gul (hoyfa), 251 for seasoning a carbon-steel wok. 22 yellow (blanched garlic chives) (gul wotig), 251 Yellow, Stir-Fried Bean Sprouts and, 83 (ho, 265-66 chopping with a cleaver, 49 Chow Fun, Beef, 31 chow mein, xii cilantro (fresh coriander or Chi­ nese parsley), 251 cinnamon bark (cassia bark or Chinese cinnamon), 251 Soy Sauce Chicken. 174-75 Clams in Black Bean Sauce, StirFried. 111 Clear Soup Noodles. 67 cleavers, 49-50, 245, 245 cloud ears (tree ears, dried veg­ etable, or black fungus) (wun yee), 251 Chicken with Lily Buds. Mushrooms and. Steamed, 44 Uot-and-Sour Soup. 71 Lotus Root Stir-Fry, 84-85 Luffa and. Stir-Fried. 94 congee (jook), see porridges cookware shops. Chinese. 244-45 coriander, fresh (cilantro). 251

272

com: baby. 246 Baby. Chicken with Straw Mushrooms and. Stir-Fried. 26 and Chicken Soup. 65 cornstarch, xvii crab. 192 cucumber. 192 Custard. Steamed Egg. 39 cutting: equipment for, 49-50, 245 knife skills and. 47-50 meat for stir-fries, xviii poultry, xvi, 49 dates, dried, 251-52 black. 251 brown (mut zoe), 252 Dong Quai Soup. 230 in dong quai tonic. 227 Honey, and Fresh Fig Soup, 211 Lotus Root Soup, 231 New Year's Cake, 132-33 red (jujube) (hooitg zoe). 232 red, in Eight Precious Sweet Rice. 120-21 in restorative (bow) soups. 227 in soothing (yun) soups. 194 Stir-Fried Frog on Rice. 14-15 deep-fat-fned dishes: Sesame Balls, (Zeen Doy), 138-39 Spring Rolls. 166-67 deli foods. 173-83 Bacon. Chinese, 182-83 Chicken, Salt-Roasted, 173 Chicken, Soy Sauce, 174-75 Duck. Roast. 180-81 Pork, Chinese Barbecued, 176-77 shopping for. 244 Spareribs. Barbecued. 178-79 delicacies, labor-intensive. 140-69 Chicken Wings. Stuffed, 150-51

Duck. Nom Yu and Taro. Braised. 148-49 Duck. West Lake, 146-47 Pork Dumplings (Silt M ai). 156-57 Pot Stickers, 160-61 Rice Tamales, Savory, 152-54 Rice Tamales, Sweet, 154-55 Scallion Cakes. 168-69 Shrimp Dumplings (Ha Cow), 162-63 Spring Rolls. 166-67 Stuffed Noodle RoUs. 164-65 Winter Melon Soup. Fancy, 143-45 Won Ton. 158-59 desserts: Eight Precious Sweet Rice. 120-21 Sesame Balls (Zeen Doy), 138-39 Sponge Cake. Steamed, 46 Walnut Soup, 196 dim sum, xii. 141-42 Chicken Porridge. 13 Pork Dumplings (Siu M ai), 156-57 Pot Stickers, 160-61 Scallion Cakes, 168-69 Sesame Balls (Zeen Doy), 138-39 Shnmp Dumplings (Ha Cow), 162-63 Spring Rolls, 166-67 Stuffed Noodle Rolls. 164-65 Taro Root Cake. 130-31 Turnip Cake, 128-29 Water Chestnut Cake, 134—35 Won Ton, 158-59 dong quai (angelica or Angelieae sinesis), 252 medicinal use of, 226-27 shopping for, 242 Soup.230 double-steamed dishes, 34-35 Double-Steamed Asian Pears. 208 Double-Steamed Black Chicken Soup. 235

Double-Steamed Papaya and Snow Fungus Soup, 207 Dragon Eye and Lotus Seed *Tca," 206 equipment for, 244 Korean Ginseng Soup, 232-33 double-steaming, 34-35 dragon eye, dried (/origan), 252 Eight Precious Sweet Rice, 120-21

and Lotus Seed “ Tea," 206 in tray of togetherness, 125 Dragon Festival, dishes for: Savory Rice Tamales. 152-54 Sweet Rice Tamales, 154—55 dried ingredients: soaking and rinsing, xvi see also specific dried ingredients Drunken Chicken, 52-53 duck: Nom Yu and Taro. Braised, 148-49 Roast. 180-81 West Lake. 146-47 duck eggs, salted. 259 Steamed Pork Cake with, 38 dumplings: Peanut Rice, 18-19 Pork (Sin M ai), 156-57. 157 Pot Stickers. 160-61, 161 Rice, Savory, 16-17. 17 Shrimp (Ha Cow), 162-63, 163 Won Ton. 158-59, 159 won ton skins for, 267 egg(s): with Barbecued Pork. StirFried, 27 Chicken and Com Soup. 65 and Chinese Chives, Stir-Fried. 85 Custard. Steamed, 39 duck, salted, 259 Duck, Salted, Steamed Pork Cake with, 38 Fried Rice. 9 Fuzzy Melon Soup. 68 Hot-and-Sour Soup. 71

Lotus Seed “ Tea.” 200 noodles, fresh. 257 Pickled Pig’s Feet. 238-39 Seaweed Tofu Soup. 72 Steamed Sponge Cake, 46 Stuffed Noodle Rolls, 164-65 symbolizing yin and yang, 200 yin-yang balance and. 200 eggplant, Chinese. 249 in Garlic Sauce, 95 cgg-roll wrappers (spring roll wrappers). 263 Eight Precious Sweet Rice. 120-21 equipment. 244 bamboo steamers, 35. 36, 244 bowls, for steaming, 35, 36. 244 Chinese-style tureens. 206. 244-45 cleavers, 49-50, 245 food processors, 48 metal steamers. 35. 36. 244 plate lifters. 36, 245 sandpots, 60. 245 shopping for, 244-45 for steaming, 22. 35. 244-45 for stir-frying. 22-23 woks. 5. 22-23. 35. 244. 245 fat choy (black moss). 247 Festival of the Winter Solstice. 16 Fig, Fresh, and Honey Date Soup, 211 figs. dried. 252 Apple, and Almond Soup. 213 in soothing (yun) soups, 194 fish: Butterfly, and Bean Sprouts, Stir-Fried. Baba’s, 28-29 poached, for Chinese New Year's Eve. 105-7 Rock Cod, Steamed, 45 Shark’s Fin Soup, 114-15 shopping for. 243. 244 Sole. Steamed, with Black Bean Sauce, 43 Steclhead. Poached, 108-9

symbolism of. 106 White, Fried. 51 five spice powder. 252 five spice tofu (spiced tofu or fla­ vored bean curd). 265 and Vegetables, Stir-Fried. 86-87 food processors, 48 Four Flavors Soup. 216 foxnut(s) (dice sut), 252-53 Soup. 198 fried dishes, iff deep-fat-fried dishes; panfried dishes; stirfried dishes frog: shopping for. 244 Stir-Fried, on Rice. 14-15 fruit, xii, xiv -based soothing (ynn) soups, 194 see also specific fruits fu yu, (wet bean curd). 267 shopping for. 241 Stir-Fried Amaranth. 92 Stir-Fried Water Spinach, 93 Fung. Herbert. 123 Fung, Lady Ivy, 58 Fung Leung Shee, 170 Fung Lok Chi. 47 Fung. Norman, 3, 73, 123 Fung. Samuel, 3, 73, 123 Fung Tong Lai Lan, 73 fuzzy melon, 253 with Scallops. Braised, 99 selecting, 74 Soup. 68 Stuffed, 98-99 game birds: Black Chicken Soup. DoubleSteamed, 235 black chickens, shopping for, 243 Squab. Glazed Roast. 113 garlic: Lettuce. Stir-Fried, 117 Sauce, Eggplant in, 95 garlic chives, see chives

•x

273

ginger, x ii, x viii B e e f and W h ite T urnip Soup, 240 Braised Beef, 54—55

Barbecued Spareribs. 178-79 Roast D uck, 180-81 U ncle Tom m y’s Roast Turkey. 184-85

C hicken, R o c k Sugar, 58 C hicken W in e Soup, 236-37 Chinese Bacon, 248-49 dried. 253 fresh. 253 peeling and slicing, x vii, 47-48 Pickled Pig's Feet, 238-39 as a restorative food, 227 Soy Sauce C hicken, 174-75 yin-yang balance and. 192 gingko nut(s). xii, 253 availability, 222 Buddha’s Deight. 126-27 Eight Precious Sw eet Pace,

120-21 Porridge, 222-23 Sandpot Braised Lam b, 62-63 W est Lake D uck. 146-47 ginseng, xii. 254 Am erican. 254

H a C o w (Shrim p Dum plings), 162-63 hair vegetable (black moss) ( fa t

choy), 247 ham. Sm ithfield, 262 hardware shops. Chinese. 244 herb shops. Chinese, x viii. 243 Herbal W in te r M elon Soup. 220 herbs. Chinese. 192 almond seeds. 241. 258

ching bo leung, 250 Clung Bo Leung Soup. 214

Chinese, Am ericanized ingre­ dients vs., xiv dried, soaking and rinsing, xvi English names for. 241 expensive, 242 glossary of, 246-68 groupings of, in Chinese gro­ cery stores, 242-43 herbs, see herbs. Chinese m edicinal attributes of. xiv produce. 73-76. 243 shopping for. 73-76. 241-45 yin-yang nature of. 192

Jai (Budda’s D elight). 124 126-27 Je w C hong Q uai. xvii

cinnam on bark, 251

Je w , George, xvi Jo b ’s Tear barley, 246

dates, 251-52

jo o k (congee), see porridges

Jong quai (angelica or Angelica sinensis), 226-27. 242. 252 Dong Q uai Soup. 230

jujub e (dried red dates). 252

dragon eye, 206, 252

kale. Chinese, see broccoli. C h i­

Am erican. C hicken Soup, 225 Chinese. 254

figs, 252 Four Flavors Soup, 216

nese Keane. Tom . 54 Kitchen G od. 125 kizunori, 260

Korean, 254

foxnut, 252-53 Foxnut Soup. 198

knife skills. 47-50 knives. 49-50. 245. 2 4 5

Korean, Soup. 232-33 shopping for. 242 glass noodles, see cellophane noodle(s)

dried yam, 268

ginger, dried. 253 lemongrass, 255 licorice root, 255

labor-intensive dishes, see delica­ cies. labor-intensive lamb:

gluten, fried (fried bean curd), 253

lily bulbs, dried, 255 lotus seeds. 256

golden needles, see lily buds, dried golden oak mushrooms. 249-50

tangerine peel, 264 w o 1{berries, dried, 267 w ood ears, 268

yin-yang balance and, 192 legume-based soothing (yun) soups. 194

see also ginseng

Lem on C hicken, 59 lemongrass, 255

Grant Cafe, xvi green bean thread, see cellophane noodle (s) green lining beans, dried, see mung beans, dried green green turnip, 254 Soup, 215

hoisin sauce, 255 Barbecued Spareribs, 178-79 Chinese Barbecued Pork, 176-77 O yster Vegetable Lettuce

grocery stores. Chinese. 241-43. 244

Hom em ade C hicken Broth, 234

ground bean sauce (brow n bean

Hot-and-Sour Soup, 71

274

W raps. 116-17

sauce, bean sauce, brown bean paste, or yellow bean

Importance o f Living, The (L in ). 76

sauce), 254

ingredients:

Sandpot Braised. 62-63

Pork Chops, 57 lettuce: G arlic, Stir-Fried, 117 W raps, Oyster-Vegetable. 116-17 licorice root, dried. 255 Soy Sauce C hicken, 174-75 lily buds, dried (golden needles, lily flowers, tiger lily buds, or lily stems), 255

Buddha's D elight, 124 Chicken w ith C loud Ears, Mushrooms and. Steamed. 44 Hot-and-Sour Soup. 71 Lotus R o o t Stir-Fry. 84-85 lily bulbs, dried. 235 Fancy W in ter M elon Soup. 143-43 Four Flavors Soup. 216 Lin Yu Tang. 76 liquor: Chinese, shopping for. 244

sec also w ine lo mein, 257 Vegetable. 97 Loke, Anna, 59 long beans (yard-long beans), 255 as neutral vegetable, x w ith R e d B e ll Peppers, StirFried. 90 Stir-Fry, 91

longan, sec dragon eye, dried lop (hong, (Chinese Sausage), see

C loud Ears and. Stir-Fried, 94 Lum Bo Fay, 226 lunch dishes: C hicken Porridge. 13 C lear Soup Noodles, 67 G ingko N u t Porridge, 222-23 Pork Dum plings (Sin M ai), 156-57 Pot Stickers, 160-61 Scallion Cakes, 168-69 Seafood N oodle Soup, 66 Sesame Balls (Zeen Doy), 138-39 Shrim p Dum plings (Ha Gow), 162-63 Spring R o lls, 166-67 Stuffed N oodle R o lls. 164-65 Taro R o o t Cake, 130-31 Turkey Porridge, 188 Turnip Cake. 128-29 W ater Chestnut Cake, 134-35 W o n Ton, 158-59

lysee (lucky money), 123-24 mail-order sources, 268

con, Chinese lotus root (Icengnul), 256

meat cleavers, 49. 245. 2 45 m edicinal foods, x viii, 189-240

in tray o f togetherness, 125 lotus sced(s). dried. 256 and Dragon Eye "T ea ,” 206 Eight Precious Sw eet R ic e ,

120-21 Four Flavors Soup. 216

see also restorative (bow ) foods; soothing (yun) foods m editation, cooking as. 100-102 mein, 257 m elon, see bitter m elon; fuzzy m elon; w in ter melon m irliton, see chayote m ulticoursc meals, x viii mung bean sprouts, 246-47

G reen M ung Bean Soup. 197

B e e f C h o w Fun, 31

and Sw eet Potato Soup. 205 Sweetened R e d Bean Soup,

Butterfly Fish and, Stir-Fried, Baba's, 28-29

205 "T ea ,” 200 in tray o f togetherness, 125 in soothing (yun) soups, 194

Seafood N oodle Soup, 66 Stuffed N oodle R o lls. 164-65 Spring R o lls. 166-67

W est Lake D uck. 146-47 Louie, Katheryn, 3, 13, 123 lucky m oney (lysee), 123-24 luffa (angled lufFa, Chinese okra, or silk squash), 256

m ung beans, dried mushrooms. Chinese dried (golden oak mushroom, shiitake). 249-50 Braised. 78 Braised Fuzzy M elon w ith Scallops. 99 Buddha's D elight, 126-27 Cabbage and. Braised. 79 Cabbage N oodle Soup. 69 and Chestnuts Braised w ith C hicken. 64—65 C h icken w ith L ily Buds. C loud Ears and. Steamed, 44 C hickcn W in e Soup, 236-37 C hicken w ith Cashews, 24 Fancy W in te r M elon Soup, 143-45

fa quvo, 78 Flavored Sw eet R ic e , 8-9 Fuzzy M elon Soup, 68 Long Bean Stir-Fry, 91

sausage, Chinese

lop yok, (Chinese bacon), see ba­

as a restorative food. 227 Soup. 231 Stir-Fry. 84-85

mung beans, dried yellow (peeled m ung beans), see yellow

sprouting at home. 80-81 Y ellow C hives and. Stir-Fried, 83 mung beans, dried green, 254 Soup. 197 in soothing (yun) soups. 194

Lotus R o o t Soup, 231 Mam a's R ic e Stuffing, 186-87 O yster Vegetable Lettuce W raps, 116-17 Pork Dum plings. 156-57 Sandpot Braised Lam b. 62-63 Savory R ic e Dum plings. 16-17 Seafood Sandpot. 60-61 selecting, 78 shopping for. 242 Singapore R ic c Noodles, 32 soaking and rinsing, xvi Spring R o lls. 166-67 Steamed O yster and W ater Chestnut Pork Cake, 37 Steamed R o c k C od. 45 Stir-Fned Five Spice Tofu and Vegetables. 86-87 Stir-Fried Frog on R ic e , 14-15 Stuffed Chicken W ings. 150-51 Stuffed Fuzzy M elon. 98-99 Taro R o o t Cake. 130-31 Tender C hicken on R ic e ,

10-11

lex

275

Turnip Cake. 128-29

C lear Soup. 67

Vegetable Lo M ein . 97

fresh egg. 257 R ic e , Singapore, 32

W est Lake D u ck. 146-47 W o n Ton. 158-59 mushrooms, straw, 264 C hicken w ith Baby C o m and, Stir-Fried, 26 mustard green(s), 256 Soup. 221

rice verm icelli, dried (rice sticks or rice noodles)

(maifu n ), 257 R o lls, Stuffed. 164-65

and Snow Fungus Soup, Double-Steam ed, 207 in soothing (yun) soups. 194 parsley, Chinese (cilantro), 251 peanut(s)

Seafood Soup. 66

C hicken W in e Soup, 236-37 Norn Yu, 136

Vegetable Lo M ein , 97

R ic e Dum plings. 18-19

non, 260 Napa cabbage (Peking cabbage), 256-57

papava(s):

Seaw eed Tofu Soup, 72 nut(s):

Soup. 202 peanut oil, x vii, 265 pears, Asian. 194

Mushroom s and. Braised, 79

-based soothing (yun) soups, 194

Double-Steam ed, 208 Peking cabbage, see Napa cabbage

N oodle Soup. 69

see also almond seeds; gingko

pcppercoms. Sichuan. 261 Roast D uck. 180-81

Buddha’s D elight. 126-27

Pot Stickers. 160-61 Seafood Sand pot, 60-61 sin choy, 256-57 Spring R o lls, 166-67 for steaming, 35 Vegetable Lo M e in , 97 W est Lake D uck, 146-47

wonggiia bock, 256-57 N ew Year’s, sec Chinese N ew Year’s foods and traditions N ew Year’s Cake, 125, 132-33 N e w Yo rk C hinatow n. 243, 244 tiom yu (w et bean curd), 267 Braised Taro and Chinese Bacon, 89 Buddha's D elight, 126-27 Peanuts, 136 shopping for, 241

nut(s); peanut(s); walnut(s) o il seed rape vegetable, 247 oils: chili. 248 o live, x vii, 265 peanut, x vii, 265 sesame, 260 vegetable, x vii. 265 okra. Chinese, see lufta olive o il. x vii, 265 onions, spnng or green, see scallion(s) orange peel, sec tangerine peel organ meats. 192 oyster(s), dned (hoe see), 258 Braised M ushroom s, 78 Buddha's D elight, 126-27

Spareribs. 56

shopping for, 242

and Taro D uck, Braised. 148-49

soaking and rinsing, xvi

noodlc(s) (mein), 257 B e e f C h o w Fun, 31 broad rice (haw fun), 257 Buddha's Delight, 126-27 Cabbage Soup, 69 thread noodles, green bean

cellophane, in Seafood Sandpot, 60-61

276

R e d Bell, Long Beans w ith, Stir-Fried, 90 Scallops w ith Snow Peas and, Stir-Fned. 122 Pig's Feet, Pickled, 238-39 plate lifters, 36, 244, 244 plum sauce, 258 Steamed Sparcnbs w ith. 42 poached dishes: C hicken, D runken, 52-53 C hicken, W h ite C u t, 110-11 fish, for Chinese N ew Year's Eve , 105-7 Steelhead Fish, 108-9 yin-yang balance and. 192 pork:

symbolism of, 116

Barbecued. Chinese, 176-77 Barbecued. Stir-Fned Eggs

Vegetable Lettuce W raps, 116-17

w ith. 27 Cake. Steamed O yster and

and W ater Chestnut Pork Cake, Steam ed, 37

W ater Chestnut. 37 Cake w ith Salted D uck Egg.

oyster flavored sauce. 257

cellophane (glass noodles, bean thread, or verm icelli), 257 cellophane, in Braised Fuzzy M elon w ith Scallops, 99

Soy Sauce C hicken. 174-75 peppers:

panfried dishes: Lcmongrass Pork Chops. 57 Pot Stickers, 160-61 Scallion Cakes, 168-69 W h ite Fish, 51

Steamed. 38 Chayote C arrot Soup. 217 C hicken W in e Soup. 236-37 C lung B o Leung Soup. 214 Chops. Lcmongrass, 57 cleaning, for stock, xvii Double-Steamed Black C hicken Soup. 235

Dried Fig. Apple, and Alm ond S o u p ,213

in supermarkets vs. Chinatow n markets, 75

G ingko N u t Porridge. 222-23 im portance to Chinese culture,

Dum plings, 156-57

see also vegetable dishes; specific

3-6 long grain. 258 porridge, as soothing (yun) food. 194-95

Flavored Sweet R ic e , 8-9 Four Flavors Soup, 216 Fresh Fig and H oney Date Soup, 211 Fuzzy M elon Soup, 68 Green Turnip Soup, 215 Hot-and-Sour Soup, 71 P ig s Feet, Pickled, 238-39 Pot Stickers, 160-61 Savory R ic e Dum plings, 16-17 Sm ithfield ham, 262 Soybean and Sparerib Soup,

212 Spring R o lls, 166-67 Stuffed N oodle R o lls, 164-65

vegetables red bean(s), dried, 258 Paste, Sweetened, 139

rinsing, xvi, 5. 6

shopping for, 241

Steamed, 7 Stuffing. M am a’s, 186-87 sweet (glutinous, wax, or sticky

Soup, Sweetened, 201 in soothing (yun) soups, 194 red bean paste, sweetened, 264 Eight Precious Sweet R ic e ,

120-21 making at hom e, 139 red dates, dried, 252 Dong Q uai Soup, 230 Eight Precious Sweet R ic e ,

120-21

Sw eet and Sour, 119 Watercress Soup, 218

Lotus R o o t Soup, 231

Yen Y en ’s W in te r M elon

Stir-Fried Frog on R ic e ,

S o u p .219

see also bacon. Chinese; sausage. Chinese; sparenb(s) porridges (congee) (jook): C hicken. 13 G ingko N u t. 222-23 Turkey, 188 as soothing (yun) food. 194-95 Pot Stickers. 160-61 potassium carbonate solution. 258 Sweet R ic e Tamales. 154-55 poultry: air-drying, xvi chopping into bite-sized pieces. xvi. 49 washing, xvi see also chicken; duck; game birds; turkey preserved vegetable. Sichuan. 261-62 C hicken Porridge, 13 Long Bean Stir-Fry. 91 Savory Soy M ilk . 210 T urkey Porridge, 188 produce: Am erican vs. Chinese, 74-75 shopping for, 73-76, 243

N e w Year’s Cake, 132-33 14-15 red rice vinegar, 265 restorative (bow) foods. 226-40 B e e f and W h ite Turnip Soup, 240 Black C hicken Soup, DoubleSteamed. 235 C hicken Broth. Hom em ade, 234 C hicken W in e Soup, 236-37 D ong Q uai Soup. 230 frog, 14 Korean Ginseng Soup, 232-33 Lotus R o o t Soup. 231 Pig ’s Feet, Pickled. 238-39

rhizoma bata tatis, 268 rice (nrai), xii. 3-6, 258-59 Beef, Tender, on. 12 C hicken Porridge, 13 C hicken, Tender, on. 10-11 cooking. 5-6 Dum plings. Peanut. 18-19 Dum plings. Savory. 16-17 Eight Precious Sw eet, 120-21 Flavored Sw eet, 8-9 Fried, 9 Frog, Stir-Fried, on, 14-15

rice), 259 Tamales, Savory, 152-54 Tamales, Sw eet, 154-55 Turkey Porridge, 188 versatility of, 5 rice flour, x viii, 259 glutinous. 259 N e w Year’s Cake, 132-33 Peanut R ic e Dum plings. 18-19 Peanut Soup. 202 Savory R ic e Dum plings. 16-17 Sesame Tong Shui, 199 Taro R o o t Cake, 130-31 Turnip Cake, 128-29 W alnut Soup, 196 rice noodlc(s), broad (haw /un), 257 B e e f C h o w Fun. 31 R o lls. Stuffed. 164-65 Seafood Soup. 66 rice verm icelli, dried (rice sticks or rice noodles), 257 C lear Soup Noodles, 67 Singapore R ic e Noodles, 32 rice vinegar, see vinegar rice w ine, see w ine rice-pot dishes: Flavored Sw eet R ic e , 8-9 Stir-Fried Frog on R ic e . 14-15 Tender B e e f on R ic e . 12 Tender C hicken on R ic e .

10-11 rinsing dried ingredients, xvi roast(cd) dishes: C hicken, Salt-, 173 D uck. 180-81 Squab. Glazed. 113

•x

277

Turkey, U n c le Tom m y’s, 184-85 yin-yang balance and, 192 rock cod: Butterfly Fish and Bean Sprouts, Stir-Fried. 28-29 Steamed. 45 rock sugar (rock candy), 259

N oodle Soup. 66 Sandpot. 60-61 Squid. Stir-Fried, 30 see also oyster(s). dried; shrimp seaweed (nori, roasted seaweed, or

kizunori), 260

G inger C hicken. 58

Tofu Soup. 72 seaweed hair (black moss), 247 sesame o il, 260

in soothing (yun) soups. 194

sesame seed(s), 260-61

Salt-Roasted C hicken. 173 San Francisco C hinatow n. xx-xxi, 243. 244 sandpot(s), 60. 244. 2 4 4 benefits o f cooking herbal soups in. 234 Lam b. Braised. 62-63 Seafood. 60-61 seasoning and care of. 60 shopping for, 245 sausage, Chinese (lop (hong). 250 Flavored Sweet R ic e . 8-9

Balls (yxcn Doy). 138-39 black (dried), 260-61 T o n g Sh u i. 199 w hite, 261 in soothing (yun) soups. 194 Shao Hsing nee cooking w ine, 261 shark's fin, 261 shopping for, 242

Fuzzy M elon w ith. Braised. 99 G ingko N u t Porridge. 222-23 Lotus R o o t Soup. 231 M am a's R ic e Stuffing. 186-87 shopping for. 242 soaking and rinsing, xvi Taro R o o t Cake. 130-31 scallops, sea: Seafood N oodle Soup. 66 Seafood Sandpot. 60-61 w ith Snow Peas and Peppers, Stir-Fned. 122 seafood: Clam s in Black Bean Sauce. Stir-Fned. 111

278

Sin M ai (Pork Dum plings), 156-57 skillets, stir-frying in. 22 Sm ithfield ham. 262 Am erican Ginseng C hicken Soup. 225 Braised Mushroom s. 78 Fancy W in te r M elon Soup. 143-45 Shark's Fin Soup. 114—15 Snow Fungus Soup. 224

Tender C hicken on R ic e .

for equipm ent. 244-45

Flavored Sw eet R ic e , 8-9

Singapore R ic e Noodles. 32

dried shopping:

W raps. 116-17 Savory R ic e Tamales, 152-54 Stir-Fncd Frog on R ic e , 14-15 onions), 260

silver fungus, see snow fungus

Stuffed C hicken W ings.

for Chinese ingredients.

Cakes. 168-69 scallops, dried, x vi, 260

T urkey Porridge, 188 silk squash, see luffa silky chicken, see black chickcn(s)

S o u p .114-15 shiitake, see mushrooms, Chinese

M am a’s R ic e Stuffing, 186-87 O yster Vegetable Lettuce

scallion(s) (spring onions or green

C hicken Pom dge, 13 Long Bean Stir-Fry, 91 Savory Soy M ilk , 210

241-45 for produce. 73-76, 243 shnmp: Asparagus w ith , Stir-Fned, 29 Dum plings. 162-63 Pepper and Salt. 118 Seafood N oodle Soup, 66 Seafood Sandpot. 60-61 Singapore R ic e Noodles, 32 W o n Ton. 158-59 shrim p, dried. 261 Flavored Sw eet R ic e . 8-9 Savory R ic e Dum plings. 16-17 Savory R ic e Tamales. 152-54 w ith Spinach and Tofu. 77 Steamed Egg Custard. 39 Taro R o o t Cake. 130-31 T urnip Cake. 128-29 Sichuan peppercorns. 261 Roast D uck. 180-81 Soy Sauce C hicken, 174-75 Sichuan preserved vegetable. 261-62

150-51

10-11 snow fungus (silver fungus, w hite fungus, or dned vegetable). 262 and Papaya Soup. DoubleSteamed. 207 Soup. 224 snow pea shoots. 262 Stir-Fned. 112 snow peas. 262 Scallops w ith Peppers and. StirFried. 122 soaking ingredients, xvi Sole, Steam ed, w ith Black Bean Sauce. 43 " soothing (/ mm) foods. 193-225. 228 Alm ond Soup. 203 Asian Pears, Double-Steamed,

20S C havote C arrot Soup, 217 C h in g Bo Leung Soup, 214 Dragon Eye and Lotus Seed “ T ea." 206 Fig. D ried, Apple, and Alm ond S o u p .213

Fig. Fresh, and Floncy Date S o u p ,211 Four Flavors Soup, 216 Fo x nutSoup . 198 G ingko N u t Porridge. 222-23 Ginseng. Am erican, Chicken Soup, 225 Green M ung Bean Soup. 197 Green Turnip Soup. 215 Lotus Seed “ Tea.” 200 Mustard Green Soup. 221 Papaya and Snow Fungus Soup. Double-Steam ed. 207 Peanut Soup. 202 R ed Bean Soup. Sweetened,

201 Sesame Tong Sh u i, 199 Snow Fungus Soup. 224

Four Flavors. 216 Foxnut. 198 Fuzzy M elon, 68

Barbecued. 178-79

225 Ginseng. Korean. 232-33 Green M ung Bean, 197 Green Turnip. 215

Braised Sw eet and Sour. 55

Hot-and-Sour, 71 legume-, fruit-, and nut-based soothing (yun), 194 Lotus R o o t. 231

W alnut Soup, 196 Watercress Soup, 218 W in ter M elon Soup, Herbal,

220 W in te r M elon Soup, Yen Y e n s, 219 yin-yang balance and. 192-95 soup(s), xviii

licorice root, dried. 255 Sichuan peppercorns, 261 star anise. 263

Snow Fungus, 224 Soybean and Sparerib, 212 Sw eet Potato and Lotus Seed, 205 Sw eet Potato, D ried, 204 vegetable-based soothing (yun) 194, 195 W alnut, 196 Watercress, 218 W in te r M elon, Fam ily-Style,

Alm ond. 203 B e e f and W h ite Turnip, 240

70 W in te r M elon, Fancy, 143-45 W in te r M elon, Herbal, 220 W in te r M elon, Yen Yen's, 219

Black C hicken, Double-

W on T on. 158-59

Steamed. 235 Cabbage N oodle, 69 Chayote C arrot. 217 C hicken and C o m , 65

yin-yang balance and, 192-95 soy m ilk, 262-63

C hicken W in e . 236-37

soy sauce, 263 black, 263 C hicken, 174-75

C hing B o Leung, 214 C lear, Noodles. 67 Dong Q uai, 230 Fig. D ried, Apple, and A l­ mond, 213 Fig, Fresh, and H oney Date. 211

Sauce. 41 Steamed, w ith Plum Sauce. 42 spices:

Peanut, 202

Shark’s Fin , 114-15

Soup, 205 Sw eet Potato, D ried, Soup, 204

and Soybean Soup. 212 Steamed, w ith Black Bean

cinnam on bark, 251 five spice powder. 252

Soybean and Sparerib Soup.

212

N om Y u . 56 shopping for. 243

Mustard G reen. 221 Papaya and Snow Fungus. Double-Steam ed. 207

Soy M ilk . Savory, 210

Sw eet Potato and Lotus Seed

dried, 262 sparerib(s):

Ginseng, Am erican, C hicken.

R e d Bean. Sweetened. 201 Seafood N oodle. 66 Seaweed Tofu, 72 Sesame Tong Shui. 199

Soy M ilk . Hom em ade. 209

soybeans, xii

Hom em ade. 209 Savory, 210

thin, 263 soybean sprout(s), 246-47 and Sparerib Soup. 212

ginger, dried, 253

spinach: Shrim p w ith Tofu and. 77 water, 266 W ater, Stir-Fried. 93 Sponge Cake, Steamed, 46 spring roll wrappers (egg-roll wrappers). 263 Spring R o lls, 166-67 Sprouting Soybeans, 80-81 sprouts, see mung bean sprouts; soybean sprouts Squab. Glazed Roast. 113 squash: chayote (m irlito n), 248

see also fuzzy m elon; luffa squid: Seafood N oodle Soup. 66 Stir-Fried, 30 star anise, 263 steamed dishes, 33-46 Beef. Tangerine. 40 C hicken W ings, Stuffed. 150-51 C hicken w ith L ily Buds, C loud Ears, and M ush­ rooms. 44 Egg Custard, 39

Stir-Fried, Grandfather’s, 82

equipment for, 22, 35, 244-45

sprouting at hom e, 80-81

health concerns and, 33-34

.•idex

279

O yster and W ater Chestnut Pork Cake. 37 Pork Cake w ith Salted Duck Egg. 38

preparing vegetables for. x vii R ic e Noodles. Singapore, 32 Scallops w ith Sn o w Peas and Peppers. 122

Pork Dum plings (Sin M a i). 156-57

seasoning w ok for. 22-23 Shrim p. Pepper and Salt. 118

R o c k C od. 45 Shrim p Dum plings (H a Gow),

Sn o w Pea Shoots. 112 Soybean Sprouts. Grandfa­ ther's. 82

162-63 Sole w ith Black Bean Sauce. 43 Sparcribs w ith Black Bean Sauce. 41 Sparcribs w ith Plum Sauce. 42 Sponge Cake, 46 techniques for. 34-36 yin-yang balance and. 192 Steelhead Fish, Poached. 108-9 stir-fried dishes, xii. 20-32 Am aranth. 92 Asparagus w ith Shrim p. 29 Bean Sprouts and Y ellow C hives. 83 B e e f C h o w Fun. 31 Bitter M elon and Beef. 96 Bok C hoy, 109 Brocco li, Chinese, 87 Butterfly Fish and Bean

Squid. 30 techniques for. 22-23 Tom ato Beef. 25 W ater Spinach. 93 wok hay and. 20-22 vin-yang balance and. 192 stock, cleaning pork for. xvii straw mushrooms. 264 C hickcn w ith Baby C o m and, Stir-Fried. 26 stuffed: Fuzzy M elon. 98-99 N oodle R o lls. 164-65 Stuffing. R ic e . M am a’s. 186-87 sugar, brow n, see brow n candy sugar, rock (rock candy). 259 G inger C h icken , 58 in yun soups, 194

Sprouts. Baba's. 28-29, 2 9 C hicken w ith Baby C orn and

Sun H ung Heung, x vii, 26

Straw Mushroom s, 26 C hickcn w ith Cashews. 24

Sun Ya. xvi sweet and sour dishes:

Clam s in Black Bean Sauce. Ill C loud Ears and LutTa. 94 cutting meat for. x viii Egg and Chinese C hives. 85 Eggs w ith Barbecued Pork, 27 equipm ent for. 22-23 Five Spice Tofu and Vegeta­ bles. 86-87 Frog on R ic e . 14-15 Lettuce. G arlic, 117 Long Beans. 91 Long Beam w ith R ed Bell Peppers. 90 Lotus R o o t. 84-85 o il for. xvh

280

sun seen thoon dan mein, 257

Pork. 119 significance for N ew Year’s Eve dinner of. 107 Sparcribs, Braised, 55 sweet potato:

shopping for. 242 tapioca, pearl, small (sai mai), 264 tapioca starch (tapioca flour), x vii. 264 taro root. 264 Cake. 130-31 and Chinese Bacon, Braised, 89 and N om Y u D u ck, Braised, 148-49

tatsoi, 247 teas. 192. 193 Dragon Eye and Lotus Seed, 206 Lotus Seed. 200 thickeners, xvii tiger lily buds, see lily buds, dried tofu (bean curd), 265 Buddha's D elight, 126-27 firm , 265 five spice (spiced tofu or fla­ vored bean curd). 265 Five Spice, and Vegetables. Stir-Fried. 86-87 tried (fried bean curd). 253 Seaweed, Soup. 72 Shrim p w ith Spinach and, 77 silken. 265 yin-yang balance and, 192

see also bean curd Tom ato Beet’, 25 Tong Rung Foon, 140 Tong N g K w ci-Foon, 191 long shui, 194 Sesame, 199 tonics. 192

and Lotus Seed Soup. 205 dried (z/iu za i sliu), 264

Alm ond Soup. 203 Asian Pears. Double-Steamed. 208

D ried. Soup. 204 Mustard Green Soup. 221

B e e f and W h ite Turnip Soup. 240

tamales: Savory R ic e , 152-54. 153 Sweet R ic e . 153, 154-55. 155 tangerine peel (orange peel). 264 aged. 40 Beef. Steamed. 40

Black C hickcn Soup. DoubleSteamed. 235 Chayotc C arrot Soup, 217 C hickcn Broth. Hom em ade. 234 C hicken W in e Soup. 236-37 C lung Bo Leung Soup. 214

D ong Q uai Soup, 230

Braised Beef. 54—55

Dragon Eye and Lotus Seed "T e a ," 206

C ake. 128-29

Fig. D ried, Apple, and Alm ond S o u p ,213 Fig. Fresh, and H oney Date S o u p .211 Four Flavors Soup, 216 Foxnut Soup, 198 Ginseng. Am erican. Chicken S o u p .225 Ginseng, Korean. Soup. 232-33 Green M ung Bean Soup. 197 Green Turnip Soup, 215 Lotus R o o t Soup, 231 Lotus Seed "T e a ." 200 Mustard Green Soup. 221 Papaya and Snow Fungus Soup. Double-Steam ed, 207 Peanut Soup. 202 R ed Bean Soup. Sweetened.

201 Sesame Tong Shui. 199 Snow Fungus Soup. 224 Soy M ilk . Savory. 210 Soybean and Sparerib Soup.

212 Sw eet Potato and Lotus Seed S o u p .205 Sw eet Potato. D ried. Soup.

green, 254 G reen, Soup. 215 selecting. 128 W h ite, and B e e f Soup. 240 turnip, salted, 259-60 Lotus R o o t Stir-Fry, 84-85 shopping for, 84, 241 Stir-Fried Five Spice Tofu and Vegetables, 86-87 Stir-Fned Frog on R ic e . 14-15 vcgctablc(s), xii. xiv -based soothing (yun) soups. 194 O yster Lettuce Wraps. 116-17 preparing for stir-frying, xvii

see also specific vegetables vegetable cleavers, 49-50. 245.

245 vegetable dishes. 73-99 Am aranth. Stir-Fried. 92 Bean Sprouts and Y ellow Chives. Stir-Fried. 83 B itte r M elon and Beef. StirFried. 96 Bok C hoy, Stir-Fried. 109 Brocco li. Chinese, and Bacon. Stir-Fried. 88

204 W alnut Soup. 196 Watercress Soup. 218

Brocco li. Chinese, Stir-Fried. 87

W in te r M elon Soup. Herbal.

Cabbage and Mushroom s. Braised. 79

220 W in te r M elon Soup. Yen Y en ’s, 219 tree ears, see cloud cars tureens. Chinese-style. for steam­ ing. 34-35. 2 44, 244-45

Buddha’s D elight. 126-27

C loud Ears and Luffa, StirFried. 94 Egg and Chinese C hives. StirFried. 85

Long Beans w ith R e d Bell Peppers, Stir-Fried. 90 Lotus R o o t Stir-Fry. 84-85 Mushroom s, Braised. 78 Shrim p w ith Spinach and Tofu. 77 Snow Pea Shoots. Stir-Fned. 112 Soybean Sprouts. Stir-Fried, Grandfather’s, 82 Soybeans, Sprouting, 80-81 Taro and Chinese Bacon, Braised, 89 Vegetable Lo M ein , 97 W ater Chestnut Cake. 134-35 W ater Spinach. Stir-Fried. 93 vegetable o il. x vii, 265 verm icelli, see cellophane noodle(s); nee verm icelli, dried vinegar, 265-66 black (black ncc vinegar sauce), 265 red rice, 265 sweetened black (sweetened black rice vinegar). 266

uui san, 268: walnut(s): Candied. 137 Soup. 196 in soothing (yun) soups. 194 water. 193 w ater chestnut flour (water-chest­ nut powder or water-chest­ nut starch), 266 water chestnuts, fresh, 266 Cake. 134-35 Fam ily-Style W in te r M elon Soup. 70

Eggplant in G arlic Sauce. 95

and O yster Pork Cake, Steamed. 37

Five Spice Tofu and Vegeta­ bles. Stir-Fried. 86-87

O yster Vegetable Lcttucc W raps. 116-17

R ic e Stuffing for. Mama's. 186-87

Fuzzy M elon. Stuffed, 98-99 Fuzzy M elon w ith Scallops.

Sandpot Braised Lum b. 62-63 W est Lake D u ck, 146-47

Roast. U n cle Tom m y’s. 184-85

Braised. 99 Lcttucc, Stir-Fned G arlic, 117 Long Bean Stir-Fry, 91

turkey: Porridge. 188

turnip. Chinese. 250

W on Ton. 158-59 w ater spinach, 266 Stir-Fried. 93

ndex

281

watercress. 266

woks. 244

yard-long beans, see long beans

carbon-steel, 22-23, 2 4 4 , 245 cast-iron. 22-23. 2 4 4 , 245

yellow bean sauce, see ground bean sauce

waterm elon. 192

seasoning. 22-23

waterm elon seeds. 123 in tray o f togetherness. 125

shopping for. 245 for steaming, 22. 35 for stir-frying, 22-23 washing. 5. 23

yellow chives. 251 Bean Sprouts and. Stir-Fned. 83

S o u p .218 yin-yang balance and. 192

West Lake D uck. 146-47 w et bean curd, see bean curd, wet wheat starch. 267 W h ite C u t C hicken. 110-11 W h ite Fish. Fried, 51 w hite fungus, see snow fungus w hite porridge. 194-95 w ine: C hicken Soup, 236-37 ricc cooking. Shao Hsing. 261 shopping for. 244 w inter m elon. 267 carving, 143 selecting. 74 Soup. Fam ily-Style, 70 Soup. Fancy, 143-45 Soup, Herbal, 220 Soup, Yen Yen's, 219 w inter mushrooms, dried, see

w olfberries, dried. 267 Double-Steam ed Black C hicken Soup, 235 Four Flavors Soup. 216 as a restorative food. 227 W o n Ton (recipe). 158-59 liw i ton, 257 w on ton skins. 267 W o o . K . L .. 234 w ood ears (dehydrated vegetable or sea vegetable) (»took yee), 268 C hicken W in e Soup. 236-37

see also stir-fried dishes

282

Savory R ic e Tamales. 152-54 yin-yang balance. 191-95 eggs as embodiment of. 200 yang foods. 192 yin foods. 192 see also restorative (bow) foods: soothing (yun) foods Young. D onald. 100 Young. Douglas. 226 Young Fung Y u Fun (M am a). 3,

73, 123, 2 2 6 Young Gee Shee. 2 2 6 Young Suey H ay. 33, 100 Young W ah Yen (Baba). 20, 100,

226 Young Y in g Look, 105

X O Sauce. 268 Fried R ic e , 9 shopping for, 242

Yuen M o y, 123 Yuen W ah, 123 yun foods, see soothing (yun) foods

mushrooms, Chinese dried W in te r Soltice, 16 wok hay, 20-23

yellow mung beans, dried. 268

yams, dncd (Chinese yam or rhi-

zom a bata tatis) (wai san), 268 Four Flavors Soup, 216

Zeen Doy (Sesame Balls). 138-39