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‘Frederic H. Sonnenschmidt John F. Nicholas
The Professional Chef’s® ART of GARDE MANGER fifth edition Frederic H. Sonnenschmidt John F. Nicolas 66
.»-One of the most complete and best-researched
works focusing on practical application of cold food presentation, combining the necessary elements of
artistry, creativity, and cooking sensitivity.” —Ferdinand
E. Metz, President, The Culinary
Institute of America “this culinary classic should be invaluable preparation of buffets.” —Chef Magazine
in the (on the
Fourth Edition)
To achieve
the artistry, creativity, and cooking
sensitivity necessary to build memorable buffets, a la carte appetizers and salads, culinarians have turned to The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger for many
years. Now reflecting the dynamic changes occurring in the culinary
world,
the
new
Fifth
Edition
of
The
Professional Chef's Art of Garde Manger is more
valuable than ever in helping you build and perfect garde manger skills. Numerous new color and blackand-white photographs illustrate practical buffets and competition fare.
The exciting new Fifth Edition of the unique classic guide to cold and hot food preparation updates the role of the garde manger chef to reflect the growing trend toward healthy eating. You'll find many exciting, new
salads—try the turkey salads with strawberries—and even vegetarian pates and terrines that look good and
taste good, in addition to the traditional fare, for a total of nearly 200 recipes. You’ll also find interesting uses of recently “discovered” ingredients in dishes such as smoked catfish on lentil salad, cheese balls from goat cheese,
and an updated
healthy
and
nutritional
forcemeat; low in cholesterol yet maintaining good flavor. But while many
things have changed,
the garde
manger’s basic emphasis and recognition of culinary principles have remained
untouched.
In the Fifth
Edition you’ll find step-by-step coverage of the (continued on back flap)
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The Professional Chef’s®
PURIE (Qe GARDE MANGER
The Professional Chef’s®
ART OF GARDE MANGER Fifth
Edition
FREDERIC SONNENSCHMIDT, JOHN
NIGOEAS
NR Van Nostrand Reinhold New York
C.M.C.
Copyright © 1973, 1976, 1982, 1988, 1993 by The Culinary Institute of America Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 92-23801
ISBN 0-442-01153-9 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without the written permission of the publisher.
I@P
Van Nostrand Reinhold is an International Thomson Publishing company. ITP logo is a trademark under license.
Printed in the United States of America
Van Nostrand Reinhold 115 Fifth Avenue
International Thomson Publishing GmbH K6nigswinterer Str. 418
New York, NY 10003
53227 Bonn
Germany International Thomson Publishing Berkshire House,168-173 High Holborn, London WC1V 7AA England
International Thomson Publishing Asia 221 Henderson Bldg. #05-10 Singapore 0315
Thomas Nelson Australia 102 Dodds Street South Melbourne 3205 Victoria, Australia
International Thomson Publishing Japan Kyowa Building, 3F 2-2-1 Hirakawacho Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 102 Japan
Nelson Canada
1120 Birchmount Road Scarborough, Ontario MI1K 5G4, Canada
NG
WS) Ws
NBs I
a
NO SS GP GD A Si
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Sonnenschmidt, Frederic H.
The professional chef's art of garde manger / Frederic Sonnenschmidt, John F. Nicolas.—Sth ed.
p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 0-442-01153-9 1. Quantity cookery.
2. Cookery (Cold dishes).
(Cookery) 4. Buffets (Cookery) If. Title: Art of garde manger. TX820.S64 641.7'9—dc20
I. Nicolas, John F.
3. Garnishes
II. Title.
1992 92-23801
CIP
To the student and apprentice of culinary arts and the future chefs
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Contents
Foreword ix Foreword xi Preface xiii Acknowledgments
~— xv
ie
tnteART OF GARDE MANGER 1
2.
BUFFET
3.
GARDE MANGER AREA PLANNING 29
Ae
ASPIG—GELEE— CHAUD-FROID
5. 6.
PRESENTATION
39
APPETIZERS— HORS D’OEUVRE
47
Lae
MARINADES—CURES— BRINES = 137
12;
ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS
13:
FOOD DECORATION
14.
COLD SAUCES—BUTTER AND CHEESE MIXTURES 169
sey.
COLD FOOD PRESENTATION FOR PRAGTICAL AND CULINARY DISPRAYS "184
16.
SALADS,
Whe
CHEESES.
LSE
NONEDIBLE- DISPLAYS
ee
HEALTHY FOODS FOR A LA CARTE SERVICE AND BUPFETS- © 231
20.
CHARCUTERIE
FOIE GRAS—TRUFFLES— CAVIAR 85
7, FORCEMEAT 95 8. PATES—TERRINES TRAGALANTINES 123 10. MOUSSE 131
101
Glossary Index
O28B |
= 143
263 269
— 157
187 215
= 245
223
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Foreword
Over the years, The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger has established itself as one of the most complete and_bestresearched works focusing on _ practical application of cold food presentation, combining the necessary elements of artistry, creativity, and cooking sensitivity. In realizing the dynamic changes that occur in the foodservice
industry, the au-
thors have very wisely updated The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger without changing its many desirable characteristics or its common sense approach, which made it so appealing to thousands of readers. They have included new culinary concepts, emphasized, important aspects of buffet preparation, and addressed certain trends, particularly those that influence cold food presentation. This new revision includes a section of hot hors d’oeuvre, an update on various ingredients, and the de-
velopment of low-fat forcemeats. The authors apply the international criteria developed by the American Culinary Federation, the standards by which buffet plat-
ters are being evaluated all over the world. The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger thus provides the interested culinarian with the fundamentals necessary to build
and perfect garde manger skills. . A new chapter on charcuterie (focusing on the preparation of various sausages and specialty items), a chapter on healthful cold foods, a chapter on cold foods for a la carte service, and an update of color photographs all represent a comprehensive and meaningful revision of this book. While many things have changed, the emphasis and recognition of basic culinary principles have remained untouched. The authors recognize that comprehension of the basic fundamentals is absolutely necessary for progress in a career as a cook and future chef. Furthermore, the authors attempt to focus the attention of the reader on the fact that simplicity, combined with a feeling of elegance, is not a contradiction but, indeed, a desirable combination to achieve. Such an approach does not allow room for errors. The individual must be fully skilled in all elementary techniques and must have developed an eye for attractive and appetizing food presentations. As a former Olympic Gold Medal winner and one of the few certified Master Chefs, Mr. Sonnenschmidt is uniquely qualified and brings to this book the necessary ex-
x
Foreword
perience and _ professional perspective which he has passed on to the many graduates of the Culinary Institute, as well as to all serious readers of The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger. The recipes in this volume were developed and tested in the instructional kitchens of The Culinary Institute
of America,
where
The
Profes-
sional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger is now
used as a text for buffet catering courses. As such, The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger has established itself as one of the most desirable additions to any culinary library. Ferdinand E. Metz President
The Culinary Institute of America
7
Foreword
For almost two decades, The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger, a unique and most comprehensive text book, has evolved into a crucial and extremely beneficial professional working tool. The authors’ efforts to continuously seek perfection and excellence through updated revisions is exemplary of their commitment to the profession. Close attention has been focused on the ever changing food service industry. and its growing demands. New interpretation of culinary concepts and new culinary equipment technology are discussed without ever losing sight of the fact that the young culinarian of today, first and foremost, must fully comprehend the complex, solid foundation of good
that we must have a passion for food. We must be sensitive to the food’s origin and be aware not to adulterate the food product.
We also develop our sensitivity toward flavors, textures, colors, different taste sensations, and all the important elements that make up the food product. In other words, we are in the pursuit of perfecting our skills and craftsmanship, which is a lifetime commitment. The authors of The Professional Chef's
Art of Garde Manger have brought about all these feelings to the text. It is a ‘must read”’ for any aspiring culinarian. The book also provides the advanced professional with a fresh and renewed interest in refining and updating his or her garde manger skills.
cooking. And that, with the consistent ad-
herence to basic culinary principles as the foundation, the young culinarian can further develop into the artist that he or she aspires to be. Ultimately nothing is more rewarding to the young professional than experiencing growth, emotionally as well as intellectually. Food continues to play an important role in our lives. As we accept the continuous learning experience, we begin to realize
Therefore,
it is sure
to
find
a
much-
deserved home in many serious culinary libraries. Mr. Sonnenschmidt is a pioneer and authority in his field and, as Culinary Dean of The Culinary Institute of America, his contributions will have a lifetime effect on the culinarians of tomorrow. Victor A. L. Gielisse, C.M.C. Chef-Owner/Actuelle Restaurant—Dallas xl
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Preface
For many years, The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger has taught the preparation and presentation of cold food. This book is written to emphasize the standards, principles, and techniques required to produce quality food that is both nutritious and aesthetically pleasing. It is written for
mentals of emulsion, roasting, poaching, sauteing, and baking, but also addresses new
chefs, teachers, apprentices, students, and
novices and is intended to function as a teaching aid as well as a working manual. Young chefs who are just starting out will find this book helpful for immediate problems in food production. They will still find it useful as they advance in their careers and their responsibilities become less involved with the actual production of food. This book should remain a constant source
of reference
concepts
of nutrition,
preparation,
and presentation. As a text, the book’s material should be related to lectures, demonstrations, and actual work experience for professionals and hobby chefs. New color photos of foods have been added for practical purposes as well as for culinary food displays. Hopefully, the combination of the textual materials, lectures,
demonstrations, and kitchen experiences will improve learning and interest as well as allow apprentices/students to study more on their own. Many colleagues have assisted in the development of this new edition. Our special thanks are due to The Culinary Institute of America; the New York Culinary Team; Henry Woods, Director of Learning Re-
for ideas, techniques,
and easily understood recipes. The operation of today’s modern kitchen, especially garde manger, cannot be learned from books alone. It is essential for the apprentice-student to work with the required food in order to learn to apply the basic fundamentals of good food production. The Professional Chef’s Art of Garde Manger not only covers the basic funda-
sources; Bill Reynolds, Director of Continu-
ing Education; John Grubell, Photographer; and Lorna Smith, Assistant Photographer. This book is dedicated to our students and colleagues, who have inspired us to write and revise The Professional Chef's Art of Garde Manger.
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