Garde Manger: The Cold Kitchen [1 ed.] 0131700588, 9780131700581

Citation preview

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Garde Manger The Cold Kitchen CURTISS

SCOTT

HEMM

Editor in Chief: Vernon Anthony Acquisitions Editor: William Lawrensen Editorial Assistant: Lara Dimmick Director of Marketing: David Gesell Senior Marketing Manager: Leigh Ann Sims Senior Marketing Coordinator: Alicia Wozniak Marketing Assistant: Les Roberts Associate Managing Editor: Alexandrina Benedicto Wolf Project Manager: Kris Roach Senior Operations Supervisor: Pat Tonneman Operations Specialist: Deidra Schwartz Senior Art Director: Diane Ernsberger

Cover Designer: Kellyn Donnelly Manager, Visual Research: Janet Portisch Manager, Rights and Permissions: Zina Arabia Image Permission Coordinator: Debbie Hewitson Cover Art: Jim Smith Photography Media Director: Michelle Churma Full-Service Project Management: WordCraft, LLC Composition: S4Carlisle Publishing Services Printer/Binder: Courier - Kendallville Cover Printer: Lehigh Text Font: Trade Gothic Light

Photo Credits: pp. 212-213: Omni-Photo Communications, Inc.; pp. 254-255: all uncredited photos are © Jim Smith Photography.

© PAUL THOMPSON / DanitaDelimont.com;

Copyright © 2010 Pearson Education, Inc., publishing as Prentice Hall. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America. This publication is protected by Copyright, and permission should be obtained from the publisher prior to any prohibited reproduction, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or likewise. To obtain permission(s) to use material from this work, please submit a written request to Pearson Education, Inc., Permissions Department, One Lake Street, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458.

Many of the designations by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book, and the publisher was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed in nitial caps or all caps. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hemm, Curtiss Scott. Garde manger: the cold kitchen / Curtiss Scott Hemm.—l1st ed.

p. cm. ISBN 0-13-170058-8 (978-0-13-170058-1) cookery. |. Title.

1. Cookery (Cold dishes)

TX830.H465 2010 641.7'9—dce22

ORS ES

2. Garnishes (Cookery)

3. Quantity

2009008914

Ov oR4nS 2

Prentice Hall is an imprint of

PEARSON www.pearsonhighered.com

ISBN 13: 978-0-13-170058-1 ISBN 10: O-13-170058-8

Briet Contents

CHAPTER 1

Introduction to Garde Manger

CHAPTER 2

Mise en Place: Essential Techniques of the Garde Manger

CHAPTER 3

Sauces, Salad Dressings, and Condiments

CHAPTER 4

Salads

CHAPTER 5

Sandwiches

CHAPTER 6

S mokin g ,

CHAPTER 7

Sausages

CHAPTER 8

Contemporary Charcuterie

CHAPTER 9g

Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

CHAPTER 10

Cheeses

CHAPTER 11

The Global Garde Manger

CHAPTER 12

Principles of Plate and Platter Presentation

CHAPTER 13

Contemporary Buffets

CHAPTER i4

Food Art: Garnishing and Centerpieces

CHAPTER 15

Modeled and Sculpted Centerpieces

Glossary Index

287 293

3

27

63 91

Curing, and Preserving

117

145 167

213 223

255 265 277

245

191

9

Contents List of Recipes Preface xxv

xix

Acknowledgments

CHAPTER

xxvii

1__sUIntroduction to Garde Manger 3 ng C Key Terms

3 3

Historical Overview of Garde Manger The New American Garde Manger

4 4

Influences on Modern Garde Manger

5

Profile of a Modern Garde Manger Chef

6

Knowledge Team Focus

6 6

Foundational Knowledge Developed Palate 6

6

Commitment and Passion

6

Professionalism and Pride Chaptér Summary 7 Questions for Discussion 7

CHAPTER 2

3

6

Mise en Place: Essential Techniques of the Garde Manger

ring Object Key Terms

9

Planning and Organizing Production The Goal of Mise en Place 10 Organizing Production 10 Standardized Recipes 10 Using a Prep List for Mise en Place Tools and Equipment 11 The Importance of Equipment 11 Knives

10

11

11]

Other Garde Manger Tools

12

Essential Knife Skills and Cutting Techniques

13

Standardized Professional Cuts 13 Decorative and Other Miscellaneous Professional Cuts

=

Utility Cutting Techniques

-

Chopping Mincing

9

9

14

15

15 15

Rough Dicing

16 Vil

Mise en Place Techniques 16 Prewashing and Cleaning 16 Cleaning Leafy Greens, Lettuces, and Herbs 17 Clarifying Butter 17 Peeling Techniques for Light-Skinned Vegetables and Fruits Tomato Concassé 19 Standard Breading Procedure

20

Bread Crumbs 20 Toasting Nuts, Spices, and Seeds 20 Plumping Dehydrated Fruits and Vegetables Spice Mixtures

21

21

Herb Mixtures 21 Rendering Fat 22 Dough 22 Blanching and Shocking Notes on French Fries

22 23

Cooling Foods 23 Holding Techniques 24 Convenience Foods 24 Chapter Summary

24

Questions for Discussion

CHAPTER 3

25

Sauces, Salad Dressings, and Condiments Learning Objectives

27

Key Terms 27 Sauces in the Cold Kitchen Functions of Sauces 28 Components of Sauces

The Liquid Base

27

28

28

28

The Thickening Agent 28 Seasoning and Flavor Ingredients

29 Professional Standards of Quality for Sauces Body 29 Consistency Texture

29

29

29

Flavor

29

Appearance

30

Categories of Garde Manger Sauces 30 Cold Emulsions 30 Safety Alert: Health Risks of Homemade Mayonnaise

Salad Dressings 35 Coulis and Purées 36 Coating Sauces 37 Condiments . 40 3.1

Chipotle-Cum

Vt

iO]

te

{]

o ~ ee Ol bo W> S

w ww Wwww

Vili

Contents

\

34

18

3.9 Lavender-Pear Chutney 44 3.10 Mustard-Walnut Vinaigrette 44 3.11 Pear Chutney 45 3.12 Pineapple-Mango Chutney 45 3.13 Roasted Onion Chutney 46 3.14 Roasted Tomato Chutney 46 3.15 Mint-Lemon Vinaigrette 47 3.16 Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette 47 3,17 Blood Orange Sherry Vinaigrette 3.18 Fresh Berry Vinaigrette 48 3.19 Citrus-Ginger Vinaigrette 48 3.20 Chinese Vinaigrette 48 3.21 Walnut Vinaigrette 49 3.22, Honey-Dijon Vinaigrette 49 3.23 Balsamic Vinaigrette 49 3.24 Tequila-Lime Vinaigrette 50 3.25 Autumn Cider Vinaigrette 3.26 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette 51 3.27 Zinfandel Vinaigrette 5] 3.28 Tapenade 51 3.29 Salsa Cruda 52 3.30 Piri-Piri 52 3.31 Rustic Pham Sauce 52 3.32 Peanut Sauce 53 3.33 Mayonnaise Oo 3.34 Molasses Mustard 53 3.35 Pesto 54 ‘ 3.36 Ranch Dressing 54 3.37 Russian Dressing 55 3.38 Soy Barbecue Sauce 55 6.39 Walnut Sauce 55 3.40 Thousand Island Dressing 56 3.4] Applesauce 56 3,42 Asian Cucumber-Onion Relish 6 3.43 Blue Cheese Dressing 57 3.44 White Balsamic Caesar Dressing 7 3.45 Classic French-Style Dressing Df 3.46 Cream Dressing 58 3.47 Apricot-Coconut Sambal 58 3.46 Fresh Tomato Salsa 58 3.49 Savory Fruit or Vegetable Coulis oo 3.50 Herb Coulis 59 59 3.51 Ilummus Chapter Summary 60 Questions for Discussion 60

CHAPTER 4

Salads

63

Learning Objectives 63 Key Terms 63 What Is a Salad? 64

Salad Components 64 Types of Salads 65 Contents

ix

The Salad Pantry 66 Salad Mise en Place 69 Setting Up a Salad Station 70 Basic Assembly and Presentation Techniques 70 72 4.1 Classic Green Salad with Chévre Croustade Salad Mignon 72 4.2 72 4.3 Salad Legume 4.4 Yabbouleh Salad 73 73 4.5 Waldorf Salad 73 4.6 Soba Noodle Salad 74 4.7 Salade Pomme de Terre 74 4.8 Red Wine Pasta Salad 74 4.9 Salad Mix 75 4,10 Salade Concombres 4.1] Roasted Pears with Frisée, Walnuts, Grapes, and Blue Cheese 75 4,12 Poached Leeks Ravigote Grilled Steak Salad with Watercress, Arugula, and Onion Brilée 4.13 76 4.14 Grilled Fennel and Parmesan Salad 76 4.15 Country Ham and Sweet Potato Salad 77 4.16 Grilled Chicken Salad Chinoise 4.17 Caesar Salad 77 75 4.18 Tarragon-Walnut Chicken Salad with Grilled Brie 4.19 Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad 78 4.20 Grilled Asparagus and Mushroom Salad 79 79 4.2] Roasted Beet Salad 80 4,22 Crispy Duck Salad with Orange Hoisin Vinaigrette 50 4.23 Chef Salad §1 4,24 Greek Salad 4.25 Cooked Vegetable Salad 81 8] 4.26 Italian Salad 82 4,27 Mixed Herb Salad 4,28 Winter Salad with Seared Quail and Honey-Glaze Vinaigrette 4.29 Carrot and Raisin Side Salad 82 $3 4,30 Tuna Salad 83 4.31 Tortellini Salad with Dill Dressing 4.32 Red Potato Salad with Prosciutto and Chive Dressing 83 84 4.33 German Potato Salad 4.34 Sweet Potato and Wild Rice Salad 84 4.35 Salmon and Fingerling Potato Salad 84 4.36 Mixed Summer Melon Salad with Honey-Balsamic Dressing 4.37 Chinese Chopped Salad 85 86 4.38 Three-Onion Salad 86 4.39 Fresh Vegetable Slaw 4.40 Heirloom Apple and Walnut Waldorf Salad 86 4.4] Mexican Rice Salad 87 4,42 Tusean Bread Salad 87 4.43 Lentil and Pine Nut Salad 87 85 4.44 Salade Fruits de Mer 4.45 Mushroom-Gruyére Salad 88 4,46 Asian Duck Salad 89 Chapter Summary 89 Questions for Discussion 89 X

Contents

4

76

CHAPTER 5

Sandwiches

9]

Learning Objectives 91 Key Terms 91 What Is a Sandwich? 92 Sandwich Types 92 Sandwich Components 93 Selecting Ingredients 95 Sandwich Mise en Place 95 Setting Up a Sandwich Station 95 Basic Assembly Methods 96 Importance of Presentation 100 5.1 Monte Cristo Sandwich Fried-Oyster

ot

Bacon, ot OU

GC Bm OF> bo

101

Heirloom Tomato, and Beet Greens Sandwich

102

Smoked Turkey and Grilled Eggplant Paste with Corn Sprouts Smoked

ot ul >

101]

Po’Boy Sandwich with Rémoulade

Salmon Club Sandwich

Flank Steak and

102

102

Chimichurri Sauce Flatbread

103

Lamb Piadina with Pancetta, Arugula, and Oregano Sour Cream 103 Grilled Shrimp Sandwich with Heirloom Tomato, Watercress, and Vinaigrette Pan Bagna (Bathed Sandwich)

104

Open-Faced Seared Foie Gras Sandwich Deli-Style Sandwich Lobster Roll with

Oregano Sour Cream and

Arugula,

Comm, and

Apple

Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato Sandwich Croque

Monsieur

105

105

Deli-Style Hoagie with

Ut oO wh Cn

Hamburger

Tuna Melt Sandwich

106

106

107

108

Reuben

Sandwich

Grilled

Cubano Sandwich

105 108

Chicken Quesadilla 109 Classic Club Sandwich 109 Barbecued Pork Paillard with Cabbage Slaw and OU OT tb bw po 110 on =WN eR Open-Faced Grilled Portabella Sandwich

Corn Salad

ol

Baguette Panini with Prosciutto and Fresh Buffalo Mozzarella

SS

Roasted-Vegetable Pita

OL wT

Watercress and

or

Salami,

Red Pepper

Vidalia,

Chervil,

wvco wp = wo

wt Go S ~«~

110 111

111

Cumin Butter Tea Sandwich

113

Cream Cheese, and Grilled-Seallion Canapés

and Butter

Canapés

5.31 Smoked Trout, Horseradish Batter, Chervil, and 113 0.02 Anchovy, Tomato, and Caper Canapés Chapter Summary 114 Questions for Discussion 114

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

112

112

Toasted-Walnut, Garden Cress, and Dijon ¢ anapés

Learning Objectives Key Terms 117

105

107

Santa Barbara Chicken Sandwich

CHAPTER 6

Onion-Chervil Slaw

106

Classic American

oO

104

112

Cucumber ¢ anapés

113

117

117

Preventing Food Spoilage by Preserving

118 Contents

xi

Preservation Ingredients Salt

118

118

Curing Agents 119 Nitrosamines and Curing

119

Sugar and Sweeteners

120

Spices and Seasonings Salt Curing 120

120

Smoking 123 Preserving with Fat 127 Preserving by Dehydration

130

Preserving by Pickling 131 Preserving Fruit with Alcohol 6. ]

Vy

ravon

6.2

Confit

6.3

Contit

6.4

Basic

and

de

(Duck

nulet

(Chick

Bacon

6.6

Generic

6.7

Basie

Poultry

ood

All-Purpose

6.8

Game

and

6.9

Vermont

ple

6.12 6.13

Apple Cider Bring Barbecue Spice Rub

Brin

Fresh

6.15

Southwestern Spice

Herb Crust for

6.16

Basic

6.17

Curing

6.18

Basic

Honey

Cure

tor

6.19

Pickling Brine

tor

Ha

6.20

Generic

Meat

Bring

6.21

Pork R

tes

6.22

G

6.23

Tasso

6.24

TassoRub

6.25

| umbor

6.26

Pickled

Cure

Brine

Cure

La

Rul

for

Meat

f Ba

A la Fran

and Seasonin 141

Maison

14]

Vegetable:

14]

142 142

145 145

146

Common Types of Sausages Sausage Components

Contents

|

6.14

Dry

Meat 147

Brin

136

Brin

y-Chili

Key Terms 145 What Is Sausage?

xii

Bi

H

Fat 146 Seasonings

|

Vanilla

Chipotle-Lime

Dominant

Bri 1 3¢

6.11

Learning Objectives

Col

{

Brine

6.10

Sausages

Contit)

BY

Waterlowi M

Chapter Summary

|

135 S«

Questions for Discussion

CHAPTER 7

ith

Canard

de ]

All-Purpose

6.5

132

Vern

146

146

146

}

147 Garnish Ingredients Casings 148 Curing Agents

Equipment

147

150

Sanitation

150

Making Fresh Sausage

Grinding

151

151

Mixing the Batch 152 Batch Testing 153 Shaping and Forming 153 Smoking Sausage 153 Cooking Methods for Fresh Sausages Meek

\

mont

Bre

2

Italian

3

Achirondack

4

Hy

5

Mex

$8)

B

L1KTA

Sausage

h

£

Ist

od

i

Saus

Andomiille

iki

153

re ha |

155

Stout §

}

SAalisAc’

10

Seat

11

Chicken

Sausage

Chori

12.

Chick

Pancetta

13

Chori

sAUSAR

pinett

159

with

14

Cr

15

Lamb

16

Saucisson

[62

17

Mexican

Choriz

18

South

19

Chorizo

Hi)

160

ASAE

16]

16]

162

American

ym

he

17,0

ime

i

mas

Nut

Pine

Laml

|

Ci

Sa

Sausage

Chapter Summary 164 Questions for Discussion

§

Sai

SAUSAL

IPiCc ~? tats ~l .20 nat si St SS os

CHAPTER

t

lil

Dri

165

Contemporary Charcuterie

167

Learning Objectives 167 Key Terms 167 What Is Charcuterie? 168 Equipment and Sanitation 169 Forcemeat

169 170

Types of Forcemeat

170

Components of Forcemeat

Using Curing Salts in Charcuterie

Shaping Forcemeat

171

176

8.1

Red

Zintandel

8.2

Paté

Spice

8.3

Pate

Forestie)

8.4

Country

8.5

En Crotite

Dus

Pat

k

Perrine *

ith

Pancet

150

Mix

LSt

LS]

Doush

152

Contents

xiil

8.6

Cooked

8.7

Chicken

Duck

Liver

8.8

Patéen

8.9

Chicken

8.10

Rabbit

8.11

Chicken

Appl

lerrin

8.12

Roasted

Stuffed

Quail

8.13

Absolut

and Tarragon

8.14

Pork

8.15

Tennessee

Crofite Liver

Terrine with

Rillettes

Cubano

8.17

Shellfish

Chives,

in Glace

de

Poulet

Cured Salmon

156

1586

187

ISS

Terrine

158

189

Learning Objectives

189

191

191

First Impressions

192

Amuse-Bouche 192 Plated Appetizers 192 Hors d’Oeuvre 194 Types of Hors d’Oeuvre Caviar

194

195

Canapés and Tea Sandwiches 196 Crudités 197 Dips and Spreads 197 Wrapped and Filled Hors ?Oeuvre Kebabs, Satay, and Brochettes 199 9.1

Chicken Liver Crostini

9.2

Chicken

9.3

Grilled

Shrimp

with

Eggs

20]

Wings with

198

200

Truffle

Demi-Glace

Cocktail Sauce

9.4

Deviled

9.5

Angels on Horseback

9.6

Boursin-Stuffed

Salata with

200

Gelé«

200

201

Bac on-Wrapped

9.7

Carne

Eggs aja Francaise

with Spinach, Smoked

9.9

Provencal Roasted

Tomatoes with Italian Sausage

Salad Mignon

9.11

Vegetable

Marinated

9.13

Old Bay

9.14

Steak

Smoked

Endive

Crudités

9.12

9.15

on

Fraiche

201

9.8

9.10

Créme

Dates

Olives

Leaves with Dil]

Salmon

Chili-Roasted Tuna

9.18

Cougéres

Tostadas

9.20

Roasted

9.21

Crab

and

and

Choron Sauce

203

203

204

Tartare with Croustadk

9.16

Salmon,

204

Chips

9.17

202

204

Barquettes

Almonds

205

205

206

206

207

9.19 Grilled Steak Salad with Watercress,

Contents

185

Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre 191 Key Terms

xiv

184 and Walnuts

185

Paté

Whiskey

Questions for Discussion

CHAPTER Q

with Shallots

Prunes.

187

Terrins

Chapter Summary

182

183 154

Terrine

8.16

Mousse

Galantine

Pears with Frisée, Walnuts Avocado

Salad

208

Arugula, and Grapes

Onion Brailée

and Blue Cheese

207 208

202

9,22,

4

!

t

r

9.23

;

ed

9.24

Cru

9.25

Smoked

rT

oO

I

er

Cheeses

Sen} E

Ronasted

ri

{

{

falay

f

Lid

tS)

"1

and Brie

Panin

10

210

Questions for Discussion

10

| Ti

{

\

Salmon

Chapter Summary

CHAPTER

;

211

213

Learning Objectives 213 Key Terms 213 What Is Cheese? 214 The Cheese-Making Process 214 Classification of Cheeses 214 Fresh Cheeses 214 Soft-Ripened Cheeses 214

Firm Cheeses Hard Cheeses

215

215

Blue-Veined Cheeses

215

Stretched-Curd Cheeses

215

Storing Cheese 215 Serving Cheese 216 10.1 Fresh Ricotta 10.2 10.3 10.4

Créme

dEpoisses

10.5

Maple

Syrup—Whipped

10.6 10.7

, 10.8

Fromage

Blan

Garlic-Herb

Trifle

Ricotta Fresi

ime

Chevre

with

with

Spr

Chees

mm

Bi

Orange

Galet

nzola-~-Walnut

Balsamic

10.11

Mascarpone

10.12 10.13

Freseo Oueso me Ancho-Li

Strawberries

with

ie

Honev.

Diced

Beets

919

Honey

Mascarpone,

Basil

1, 1

Aone

wees

Powe

220

12.0)

221 221]

The Global Garde Manger Learning Objectives

223

223

224

226

France 226 Italy 227 229 Spain Mexico and Latin America Mexico

Pipe

29()

Flammekuech

European Union

ahlac

\

|

10.10

Key Terms 223 Global Influences Japan 224 China 225

Crostini

Brie

Grilled

Gol

Questions for Discussion

11

»} Cheese

10.9

Chapter Summary

CHAPTER

21

231

eM Contents

XV

Latin

America

11.1 Ri

i

G2

Roll

mher

Pile yay

11.4

}

PGS 11.6

Sushi

Hand BR

leleia-

aT

11.8

Ne

Spiey

and

Spring

Seal

ish

Sw

1

11.14 11.15

Say Rome a Asparagus Ba

11.17 11.18

M

11.19

Seviche

11.20

Fig

Onions

Grilled

of

wer

Keha

fatat 94

tac

laa

11.16

Acrido!

Af

Scall

Salum

Salamorejo |

rne

my

Chapter Summary

|

j

243 243

Principles of Plate and Platter Presentation Learning Objectives

245

Key Terms 245 Food as Art 246 Elements of Plate and Platter Design 246 Color Balance

246

Symmetry

247

Height QAT Shape 247 Layout and Line Layout

Line

246

246

Contrast

248

248 249

General Guidelines for Presenting Food Clean Rims

250

250

Serviceability and Ease of Consumption 250 Clean Sauce Work 250 Functional Garnishes 250 Keep It Simple 250 The Cold Buffet Platter 250 Special Concerns for Buffet Platters 251 Chapter Summary 252

Questions for Discussion

xvi

Contents

,

R

eS

Questions for Discussion

12

R Gril

wit

Satav

ken

11.21

CHAPTER

er 1

36

11.10 a Ae 11.12

11.22

Cuci

Yakitori

ken

ki )

Tuna

11.9

t

252

245

CHAPTER 13

Contemporary Buffets Learning Objectives

255

255

Key Terms 255 What Is a Buffet? 256 Three Phases of Contemporary Buffets Planning 256 Production 259 Service

262

Chapter Summary 263 Questions for Discussion

CHAPTER 14

256

263

Food Art: Garnishing and Centerpieces Learning

Objectives

265

265

Key Terms 265 Garnishes in Classical Cuisine

266

Garnishing in Contemporary Cuisine

266

Basic Tools and Utensils 267 Basic Garnishes and Examples of Edible Art 267 Mixtures and Powders 267 Decorative Rims and Stenciling Plates 267 Sauces

267

Citrus: Lemon,

Ice Bowls

Lime, and Orange

267

269

Bundled Vegetables 269 Roses, Horns, and Cones 269 Egg Garni 270 ‘Red Onion Bulb 270 Carrot Lilies and Roses 270 Ball Clusters 270 Leek Daisy 270 Radishes 271 Elements of Design for Decorative Displays and Centerpieces

Line 272 Form 272 Texture 272 Color 273 Balance 273 Visual Weight 273 Harmony and Contrast 273 Proportion and Seale 273 The Decorative Arrangement 273

Chapter Summary 275 Questions for Discussion

CHAPTER 15

275

Modeled and Sculpted Centerpieces s Learning Objective

Key Terms

277

Takeaway Sculpture and Carving

Modeling

277

277

278

279

Contents

xvii

Fruit and Vegetable Carving Ice

282

Tallow

284

Salt Dough

284

15.1] 15.2

}

Chapter Summary 286 Questions for Discussion Glossary Index

XViil

Contents

287 293

286

280

List of Recipes

Cl 1apter 3 3.1 3.2

?

Apple Chutney

41

41

3.3 3.4 3.5

Roasted Autumn Squash Chutney

3.6 3.7 3.8

Creamy Roasted Tomato Basil Dressing

3.9 3.10 oea ‘

Chipotle-Cumin Vinaigrette

Chenin Blanc Honey Vinaigrette Creamy Black Pepper Dressing

Créme Fraiche

43

Dried-Fruit Chutney 43 Lavender-Pear Chutney 44 Mustard-Walnut Vinaigrette

Pear Chutney

44

45

Pineapple-Mango Chutney

3.14 3.15 3.16 3.17

Roasted Tomato Chutney

3.18 3.19 3.20

Fresh Berry Vinaigrette 48 Citrus-Ginger Vinaigrette 48 Chinese Vinaigrette 48

3.21

Walnut Vinaigrette

3.22 3.23

Honey-Dijon Vinaigrette

3,24

Tequila-Lime Vinaigrette

3.25

Autumn Cider Vinaigrette 50 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette 51

Roasted Onion Chutney

45 46

Mint-Lemon Vinaigrette

46 47

Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette

47

Blood Orange Sherry Vinaigrette

3.29

Salsa Cruda

3.30

Pin-Birn

3.31 3.32

Rustic Plum Sauce

3.33

Mayonnaise

3.34

Molasses Mustard Pesto 54

49

49

Zinfandel Vinaigrette Tapenade

47

49

Balsamic Vinaigrette

3.28

3.35

42

43

3.12 3.13

3.26 3.27

42

42

50

51

51

52

52

Peanut Sauce

52

53 53

53

xix ~

3.36

Ranch Dressing

54

3.37

Russian Dressing

3.38

Soy Barbecue Sauce

3.39

Walnut Sauce

3.40

Thousand Island Dressing

3.41 3.42

Applesauce 56 Asian Cucumber-Onion Relish

3.43

Blue Cheese Dressing

3.44

White Balsamic Caesar Dressing

3.45

Classic French-Style Dressing

3.46

Cream Dressing

3.47

Apricot-Coconut Sambal

55

55

55 56

56

57 57 57

58

3.48 3.49 3.50

58 Fresh Tomato Salsa 58 Savory Fruit or Vegetable Coulis Herb Coulis 59

3.51

Hummus

59

59

Chapter 4

xx

List of Recipes

4.1

Classic Green Salad with Chévre Croustade

72

4.2

Salad Mignon

72

4.3

Salad Legume

72

4.4

Tabbouleh Salad

4.5

Waldorf Salad

4.6

Soba Noodle Salad

4.7

4.8

Salade Pomme de Terre 74 Red Wine Pasta Salad 74

4.9

Salad Mix

4.10 4.11 4.12

Salade Concombres 75 Roasted Pears with Frisée, Walnuts, Grapes, and Blue Cheese Poached Leeks Ravigote 75

4.13

Grilled Steak Salad with Watercress, Arugula, and Onion Bralée

4.14

Grilled

4.15

Country Ham and Sweet Potato Salad

4.16

Grilled Chicken Salad Chinoise

4.17

Caesar Salad

4.18

Tarragon-Walnut Chicken Salad with Grilled Brie

4.19

Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad

4.20

Grilled Asparagus and Mushroom Salad

4.21 4,22 4.23 4.24 4.25 4.26 4.27

Roasted Beet Salad 79 Crispy Duck Salad with Orange Hoisin Vinaigrette Chef Salad 80 Greek Salad 81 Cooked Vegetable Salad 81 Italian Salad 81 Mixed Herb Salad 82

4.28

Winter Salad with Seared Quail and Honey-Glaze Vinaigrette

4.29 4.30

Carrot and Raisin Side Salad Tuna Salad 83

4.31

Tortellini Salad with Dill Dressing

4.32

Red Potato Salad with Prosciutto and Chive Dressing

73 73 73

74

Fennel and Parmesan Salad

75 76

76 76

77

77 78

78

79 80

82

83 83

82

4.33

German Potato Salad

4.34

Sweet Potato and Wild Rice Salad

4.35

Salmon and Fingerling Potato Salad 84 Mixed Summer Melon Salad with Honey-Balsamic Dressing

4.36

84 84

4.37

Chinese Chopped Salad

4.38

Three-Onion Salad

4.39

Fresh Vegetable Slaw

4.40

Heirloom Apple and Walnut Waldorf Salad

4.4]

Mexican Rice Salad

87

4.42

Tuscan Bread Salad

87

4.43

Lentil and Pine Nut Salad

4.44

Salade Fruits de Mer

85

85

86 86 86

87

88

4.45

Mushroom-Gruyére Salad

4.46

Asian Duck Salad

88

89

Chapter ‘ 5.1

Monte Cristo Sandwich

101

5.2

Fried-Oyster Po’Boy Sandwich with Rémoulade

3.3

Bacon, Heirloom Tomato, and Beet Greens Sandwich

5.4

101

102 Smoked Turkey and Grilled Eggplant Paste with Corn Sprouts

a)

Smoked Salmon Club Sandwich

5.6

Flank Steak and Chimichurri Sauce Flatbread

102 103

5.7

Lamb Piadina with Pancetta, Arugula, and Oregano Sour Cream

5.8

Grilled Shrimp Sandwich with Heirloom Tomato, Watercress, and V inaigrette

Pan Bagna (Bathed Sandwich)

5.10

Open-Faced Seared Foie Gras Sandwich

o.11

Deli-Style Sandwich

104

105

Lobster Roll with Arugula, Corn, and Apple

5.14

Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato Sandwich

5.15 5.16

Croque Monsieur

5.17 5.18 5.19 5.20 5.21 5.22 5.23 5.24 5.25 5.26 5.27

105

105

Deli-Style Hoagie with Oregano Sour Cream and Onion-Chervil Slaw

5.13

103

104

5.9

5.12

102

106

106

Classic American Hamburger

107

Santa Barbara Chicken Sandwich Tuna Melt Sandwich

106

107

108

Reuben Sandwich 108 Grilled Cubano Sandwich

108 Chicken Quesadilla 109 Classic Club Sandwich 109 Barbecued Pork Paillard with Cabbage Slaw and Corn Salad 110 Open-Faced Grilled Portabella Sandwich 110 Baguette Panini with Prosciutto and Fresh Buffalo Mozzarella 111 Roasted-Vegetable Pita 111 Watercress and Cumin Butter Tea Sandwich 111

5.28

Salami, Red Pepper Cream Cheese, and Grilled-Scallion Canapés

5.29

Vidalia, Chervil, and Butter Canapés

5.30

Toasted-Walnut, Garden Cress, and Dijon Canapés

5.31

Smoked Trout, Horseradish Butter, Chervil, and Cucumber Canapés

5.32

Anchovy, Tomato, and Caper Canapés

112

112

112 113

113

List of Recipes

Xxi

Chapter 6 6.1

Tarragon and Vermouth—Cured Salmon

6.2.

Confit de Canard (Duck Confit)

134

134

6.3.

Confit de Poulet (Chicken Confit)

6.4

Basic Bacon

134

6.5. 6.6

All-Purpose Seafood Brine Generic All-Purpose Brine

6.7.

Basic Poultry Brine

6.8

6.9

Game and Waterfowl Brine 136 Vermont Maple-Vanilla Brine 136

6.10 6.11 6.12 6.13 6.14 6.15 6.16 6.17

Chipotle-Lime Brine 136 Honey-Chili Brine 137 Apple Cider Brine 137 Barbecue Spice Rub 137 Fresh Herb Crust for Lamb 138 Southwestern Spice Rub 138 Basic Dry Cure for Meat 138 Curing Brine for Meat and Fish 138

135

135 135

136

6.18

Basic Honey Cure for Bacon

6.19

Pickling Brine for Hams

6.20

Generic Meat Brine

139

139

139

6.21

Pork Rillettes Ala Francaise

140

6.22

Ginand Tonic Salmon Cure

140

6.23

Tasso Cure and Seasoning Mix

6.24

TassoRub

6.25

Jambon Maison

6.26

Pickled Vegetables

140

141

141 141

Chapter 7 7.1 7.2

Italian Sausage

7.3.

Adirondack Stout Sausage

4

.) 6

List of Recipes

Fresh Andouille Sausage

Merguez Sausage Bratwurst

155

155

156 156

157

157

7.7

French Garlic Sausage

7.8

Kielbasa

7.9

Breakfast Sausage

158

158 158

7.10

Seafood Sausage

7.11

Chicken Chorizo with Cilantro

7.12

Chicken Pancetta Sausage

7.13

Chorizo Sausage

7.14

Crépinette Sausage

7.15 7.16

Lamb Sausage 161 Saucisson 162

7.17

Mexican Chorizo

159 159

160

160 161

162

7.18

South American Chorizo

7.19

Chorizo con Pimiento (Spanish Sausage with Sweet Pepper) Spicy Lamb, Pine Nut, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sausage 164

7.20

xxii

Vermont Breakfast Sausage

163 163

Chapter 8 8.1

Red Zinfandel Duck Terrine with Pancetta, Almonds, and Cherries

180

8.2

Paté Spice Mix

8.3

Paté Forestier

8.4

Country Paté

8.5

En Crotite Dough

8.6

Cooked Duck Liver Mousse

8.7

Chicken Galantine

8.8

180 181 181

PatéenCrotte

182 182

183

184

8.9

Chicken Liver Terrine with Shallots

8.10

Rabbit Terrine with Prunes, Chives, and Walnuts

184

8.11 8.12

Chicken-Apple Terrine 185 Roasted Stuffed Quail in Glace de Poulet

8.13

Absolut and Tarragon-Cured Salmon

8.14

Pork Rillettes

8.15

Tennessee Whiskey Paté

8.16

Cubano Terrine

8.17

Shellfish Terrine

185

186

186

187 187

188 188

Chapter 9 9.1

Chicken Liver Crostini

9.2

Chicken Wings with Truffle Demi-Glace

9.3 9.4

Grilled Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce Gelée Deviled Eggs 201

9.5

Angels on Horseback

9.6

Boursin-Stuffed Bacon-Wrapped Dates

9.7

Carne Salata with Créme Fraiche

9.8

200 200

201 201

202

Eggs ala Frangaise with Spinach, Smoked Salmon, and Choron Sauce

9.9

200

202

Provencal Roasted Tomatoes with Italian Sausage

9.10

Salad Mignon on Endive Leaves with Dill

9.11 9.12

Vegetable Crudités 204 Marinated Olives 204

9.13 9.14 9.15

Old Bay Chips 204 Steak Tartare with Croustade 205 Smoked Salmon Barquettes 205

203

203

9.16

Chili-Roasted Almonds

9.17

Tuna Tostadas

206

9.18

Gougéres

9.19

Grilled Steak Salad with Watercress, Arugula, and

206

207

Onion Brulée

207

9.20

Roasted Pears with Frisée, Walnuts, Grapes, and Blue Cheese

9.21

Crab and Avocado Salad

9.22

Gazpacho with Seared Sea Scallops, Roasted Jalapeiio,

208

208

Corn, and Lime Sour Cream, and Ham Powder

9.23

Grilled Shrimp and Scallop Aidelle

9.24

Cucumber Velouté

9.25

Smoked Salmon and Brie Panini

209

209

210 210

List of Recipes

xxiii

Chapter 10 10.1

Fresh Ricotta

217

10.2

Fromage Blanc

10.3.

Garlic-Herb Cheese Spread

10.4.

Créme d’Epoisses

217

217

217

10.5.

Maple Syrup-Whipped Brie Crostini

10.6

Ricotta Trifle with Grilled Vegetables and Almonds

10.7. 10.8

Fresh Lime Cheese

218

218

218

| Chévre with Orange Blossom Honey, Diced Beets, and

Micro Spinach

219

10.9

Gorgonzola-Walnut Galette

10.10

Balsamic Strawberries with Honey Mascarpone,

219

Basil, and Toasted Almond Powder 10.11

Mascarpone

10.12

Ancho-Lime Queso Fresco

10.13.

Flammekueche

219

220

220

220

Chapter 11 11.1

Kaku-Zukuri (Cubed Sashimi)

11.2

Sushi Rice

11.3.

Cucumber Rolls

11.4

California Rolls

234

List of Recipes

235 235

11.5

Chirashi Sushi (Tossed Sushi or Salad-Style Sushi)

11.6

Sushi Hand Rolls (Tekmaki)

11.7

Salmon Nori Rolls

11.8

Spicy Tuna and Cucumber Rolls

11.9

Chicken Yakitori with Grilled Scallions

11.10

Beef and Cucumber Rolls

11.11

Chicken Satay with Soy Dipping Sauce

11.12

Spring Rolls

11.13 11.14

Grilled Swordfish Kebabs with Honey Cilantro Yogurt Drizzle Romesco Sauce 239

11.15 11.16 11.17 11.18

Asparagus and Serrano Bundles with Sherry Vinaigrette Bagna Cauda and Crudités 240 Grilled Onions Agridolce 240 Mortadella Paste 241

11.19 11.20

Seviche of Scallops Fig Salumi 241

11.21

Salamorejo

11.22

Care Salada

15.1

Tallow

15.2

Salt

242

242

285

Dough

236

237

237 237

238

238 238

239

Chapter 15

xxiv

234

285

241

240

239

Preface

The impact of the visual presentation of food cannot be overlooked within the garde manger

kitchen. The experience of eating should be a culmination of culinary and environmental stimull that appeal to all human senses: sight, smell, sound, taste, and texture.

Garde Manger: The Cold kitchen brings into focus the process of allowing chefs to express themselves through the way the foods are planned, with considerations

of color, texture,

height, plate design, and layout. Garde Manger: The Cold Kitchen also highlights the importance of showcasing the authentic character of chosen ingredients, principles of cookery, and

the disciplines associated with fine cuisine. Students will learn about the techniques used to plan, prepare, produce, and decorate elegant brunches and buffets featuring decorative foods and centerpieces such as chaudfroid and aspic work, ice carving, tallow, and vegetable and fruit sculpting and carving. As students and instructors explore the subject of garde manger, they will be exposed to the full range of cold food preparation and presentation covered in this textbook, specifically: the preparation of decorative foods and centerpieces, canapés, tea sandwiches,

sandwiches,

salads, hors

d’oeuvre, salad dressings, relishes, chutneys, plated appetizers and amuse-bouche, charcu-

terie, curing and brining, cheese, egg cookery, and the elements that affect our sense of taste and our perception of cold food flavors. In addition, the basic principles of professional cookery are emphasized and reinforced

because Garde Manger: The Cold Kitchen focuses not only on the preparation of cold foods, but also on hot foods and hybrid hot-cold preparation of foods.

XXV

+)

a) y Gt

“

Acknowledgments

This book would not have been possible without the support and guidance of so many people.

First |would like to thank my wife Bridget. Together we have overcome all odds since this book began. Her friendship, love, support, tenacity, and will to live have inspired me during this project and throughout our life together. | can only hope that there will be many more years to come. To my son Alec, you are my truest hero. | am in awe of your daily success and | want

you to know that, without your support, none of my success would be possible. You mean the world to me. Everything | do is for you. To my father, thank you for the push to be my best and for the freedom you afforded me over the years, allowing me to pursue my dreams.

Chef Paul Sorgule has been, without a doubt, the most influential person in my professional life. His friendship, mentorship, advice, and support have guided me for years. | would ike to acknowledge my sincere praise to Fran Voigt for his dream and determination in creating New England Culinary Institute, the most authentic and honest institution of culinary education, an institution that enables me to reach my personal best on a daily basis. Additionally, would like to thank all of the students who have been in my kitchens and classrooms over

the years. At Prentice Hall, | would like to thank Ryan DeGrote for our chance meeting and for the encouragement to submit a query. | would also like to thank Vernon Anthony for the trust he placed in me with this opportunity. | will never forget our conversation about old world kielbasa

and the business of cooking. | would like to thank William Lawrensen for his faith in the project and his tenacity when it was needed the most. Also | would like to thank Marion Gottlieb, Judy Casillo, and David Ploskonka for their Support and guidance throughout the project. A special

thank-you goes to Christine Caperton for her role in this project. Christine’s advice, guidance, and patience are greatly appreciated. Jim Smith and his professional crew deserve praise for their ability to capture the truest

meaning of food and edible art. |could not have asked for a better collaboration and partnership. Finally, special thanks to the following reviewers, who provided great feedback and insight into this project: John Britto, San Joaquin Delta College; Sally K. Frey, Art Institute of Pittsburgh; Gabe Gardner, Sinclair Community College; Keith E. Gardiner, Guilford Technical Community College; Michael W. Handal, CCC, CCE, The Institute of Culinary Arts; Norman Hart, Art Institute

of Pittsburgh; Mia Holsapple, Galveston College; Dean Louie, Maui Community College-University of Hawaii; Robert Menne, AAC, Hennepin Technical College; David Pantone, Florida Culinary Institute; Anthony

Pisacano,

Ogeechee

Technical

College; Joseph A. Scarmuzzi,

CEC, CCE,

Florida Culinary Institute; Odette Smith-Ransome, Art Institute of Pittsburgh; and Jim Switzenbreg, Harrisburg Area Community College.

XXvii

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Garde Manger The Cold Kitchen

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HISTORICAL OVERVIEW OF GARDE MANGER Most of the foundation of garde manger rests within the realm of traditional French cookery, being born from the guild system, the first restaurants of France, the French Revolution, and the evolution of the codified and structured French kitchen under the guidance of Marie-

Antoine Caréme and later under Georges Auguste Escoffier. In France, a royal decree established a system of guilds to develop the skills and talents of their members in the areas of cuisine, garde manger, charcuterie, rotisserie, and so forth.

The guild system established the boundaries that controlled the production, sales, distribution, and preparation of food and other commerce and trade items. The guild system flourished in

its heyday, and even today many of the traditional boundaries for food preparation still exist in France. Rural villages in France often have a patissier, charcutier, boulanger, and boucher istor

operating separately from one another and keeping the distinctions and practices of their traditional guilds alive, albeit not formally recognized. Eating out had little place in European society. Most of the best chefs and food workers

Bi

worked in the households of royalty and the most powerful and wealthy citizens. Few if any restaurants existed before Monsieur Boulanger’s Paris tavern, which sold “restorative” soup-type dishes (the word restaurant comes from the French word restaurer). With the French Revolution came the collapse of the class structure in France, and many household workers, who were not involved in the structured guild system, were left without ameans

for economic survival. Many of them turned to restaurant and hotel kitchens for employment. This merger of guild and nonguild workers marked the birth of the food service industry—which was at first chaotic, self-destructive, and not recognized as civilized or honorable work. However, over

time, two key figures brought respect and honor to a once-denounced profession.

Marie-Antoine Caréme (1784-1833) took the cuisine of France and began to codify, formalize, and streamline its production, delivery, and consumption. Caréme’s work was later

fine-tuned and revised by Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). Escoffier is credited with organizing the production staff of a kitchen to work in the same manner as the French military,

thereby creating the brigade system. The classic kitchen brigade organized the production of food items within groups of people, with several skill levels in each specialized area. All cooks answered to a direct supervisor, who in turn answered to a sous chef, who answered to the

chef de cuisine, who answered to the executive chef. The chefs were responsible for rotating

Marie Antoine Caréme

young cooks through various departments to cross-train and educate them about cooking. The brigade system relied heavily on the ability of kitchens to attract young, eager, and energetic

food professionals to the formal three-year apprenticeship. of fav)

Escoffier was also credited with streamlining the menu

and course delivery of formal

French cuisine. Service a la frangaise, with the menu and food offerings coming out entirely at once, was being replaced by service a la russe, with courses of food being offered at staged intervals to ensure proper temperature, quality, and preparation. Images Archives/Getty Hulton

=

Georges Auguste Escoffier 4

Chapter 1

THE NEW AMERICAN GARDE MANGER Garde manger is embedded within all aspects of the food service industry and within all ethnic cuisines. As well, garde manger has morphed into a combination of both hot and cold food as part of its a la minute (prepared to order) service style. Chefs are increasing the demand for

iS) contemporary presentations of salads, sandwiches, sausages, Charcuterie items, =

and various cold sauces.

Likewise, customers demand

more from an estab-

lishment than the foods of the past; they seek the familiar presented in a new and different manner. Therefore, reinvention is imperative for success. Garde manger in American cuisine, as in any cuisine, is limited only by the chef’s

creativity, craftsmanship, and ability to turn a profit.

Influences on Modern Garde Manger Modern garde manger cuisine is constantly evolving at amazing speed, testing

and expanding the boundaries of traditional practices. These confrontations ee

with tradition are influenced by various factors, including the following:

1. Market trends 2. Technology

3. Nutrition and health 4. Increased product quality and availability The ways the public lives, eats, spends, and dines create market trends that have a dramatic

spontaneously,

influence on the food industry. Trends can appear

seemingly out of thin air, or they can form over years and

decades as society shifts its boundaries with the past.

Vogue diets, ethnic product availability, preparation styles, and flavors and styles of presentation are all part of trends that cause the market to shift and adjust. It is important for chefs to identify, understand, and follow market trends as they appear. Sometimes a single chef acts as an agent of change for an entire industry. With the increased celebrity of chefs, their creative body of work can be purchased, read, and re-created on the stoves of the public. Celebrity carries with it the

power of pushing boundaries and conflicting with current and traditional cuisine. For example, consider the low-carb diets of the past few years and the classic pasta salad. When low-carb diets became popular, chefs began to form pastalike foods from proteins, such as fine-julienne strips of calamari. This example shows that chefs can interact with trends firsthand, embracing and influencing what and how people eat.

The garde manger chef must also pay particular attention to technology. Several recent

_ technological developments have had a dramatic effect on how food is purchased, stored, prepared, and served.

For example, vacuum packaging is used to maintain the

Shape of foods; increase the penetration rate of cures, ce . an

q

brines, and marinades; prevent the denaturing of proWide AP tein; Wo

;

and provide stable storage for thousands of food products. It has single-handedly given the garde manger

/

.

chef control, consistency, and adaptability in the food environment and production. Combination

ovens also

offer new and improved means to increase production yield for food products and recipes. Nutrition and health concerns are increasingly on

the minds of consumers when deciding what and where

to eat. Chefs have a responsibility to produce healthy and nutritionally balanced

foods when

asked.

Chefs

also take a role in educating customers about the benefits of healthy eating.

Great food begins with great ingredients. Chefs and their customers are increasingly aware of the quality of Introduction to Garde Manger

5

ingredients; as a result, farmer-chef connections are popular because locally grown foods are fresher, more flavorful, and more marketable. Many farms have regional recognition, allowing the garde manger chef to capitalize on the reputation of the farm and to gain a crucial com-

petitive edge within the marketplace.

PROFILE OF A MODERN GARDE MANGER CHEF Today’s garde manger chefs must possess a variety of skills in order to plan, produce, and

serve food within various production models and service styles. The profile of a successful garde manger chef includes the following attributes.

Knowledge Garde manger chefs require a full range of skills and knowledge with regard to cookery, food costing, preparation, and service. They must have in-depth knowledge of hot and cold food flavor profiles, recipe variations, and how to coax desired outcomes from the ingredients they

choose to employ.

Team Focus The team is everything within the kitchen. All garde manger work requires the established team of culinary professionals to come together to meet its objectives. Garde manger work also requires increased communication with various departments or kitchens in order to fulfill its

mission, therefore a garde manger must also recognize his or her place within the team.

Foundational Knowledge Even within creative contemporary garde manger cuisine, tradition, technique, and discipline

are evident. The principles of professional cooking are the basis for success.

Developed Palate Cold food and hot food are seasoned in two distinctly different manners. Hot food allows for real-time adjustment and coaxing of flavor and texture. Garde manger food often relies on a chef’s experience to override the senses and to adjust seasonings to the higher spectrum of taste. Most production of sausages, charcuterie items, and assembled foods does not allow for the true flavor to be experienced before the final service time; therefore a chef must rely on the

recipe and his or her experience to dictate the outcome of a dish.

Commitment and Passion All professionals succeed through their own commitment to excellence and their passion for their work. The cuisine of the contemporary garde manger requires both of these attributes.

A successful garde manger must excel as a craftsman of food cookery, as an artist whose canvas is the plate, and as a businessperson working in diverse and demanding markets.

Professionalism and Pride Today’s garde manger must be a true culinary professional acting with the highest degree of skill, pride, and integrity at all times. Self-management is the fastest road to success. Chefs seek out and recognize cooks who lead by example, do the right thing, and never compromise the product or reputation of the kitchen.

6

Chapter 1

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

Garde manger has been around for centuries, yet it is still evolving and maturing within the dynamic world of food. The evolution of garde manger is experiencing its most important and

historical transition, taking the tradition, technique, and discipline of classical cold food and merging it with the open-minded, creative, and border-free kitchens that create contemporary global cuisine.

Garde manger spans the entire food industry. It is embedded within all ethnic cuisines, and contemporary garde manger uses all the skills and talents of hot cookery but with the

juxtaposition of an artist, craftsman, and chef.

Ret

1.

=)

Discuss

how the French

Revolution formed the

and more efficient; why has it stood the test of

onset of the French food service industry.

r.

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oon

time in large hotels, catering facilities, and corpo-

are

rate kitchens?

2. What were the major contributions of chefs Caréme

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4.

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The brigade system allowed for production and organization

List and define the attributes of a successful mod-

ern garde manger chef.

of kitchen work to be streamlined

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Introduction to Garde Manger

7

;

By the end of this chapter, students should b Yi

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YN

PLANNING AND ORGANIZING PRODUCTION The Goal of Mise en Place Mise en place, French for “everything in place,” refers to the preparation and assembly of various food products (appareil) and equipment before final production and cooking. Successful kitchens maximize efficiency and production during service time by using advanced production techniques and procedures. Mise en place is often more important to garde manger chefs than to their hot-cookery

counterparts. Because of the nature of cold-food production and presentation and the effects of temperature on flavor perception and taste, garde manger chefs must control the chaos of

kitchen work by implementing standard procedures to produce foods efficiently before service time and maintain quality.

Organizing Production The cooking process may be divided into several steps: purchasing, receiving, mise en place,

production, distribution, and consumption. Organizing the mise en place step is an important part of cookery that generally follows this process:

1.

Examine each menu item and create flow charts for production of each recipe involved in the final product. All recipes involve steps at which flavor layers are built and combined to enhance the end dish. A contemporary recipe may have four, five, or even ten

individual recipes involved in its final plating. Each recipe must be examined and broken down into its principal phases.

2.

Study the flow charts and decide which processes can be completed before final cooking without losing quality. A single recipe is often shared among many different menu

items. For example, glace de viande, reduced and concentrated meat stock, is a staple kitchen ingredient for many sauces, yet it can be produced hours, days, or even weeks before final production with no quality sacrifice.

3.

Determine the best technique to produce the foods before service. Also consider how the product will be held to maintain quality. Consider local and state health codes, equipment, and cooking or reheating times.

4.

Standardize the techniques involved with each recipe. Each cook must be consistent in implementing the cooking practices and policies of the operation; failure to do so leads to fluctuations in quality, cost, usage, and planning.

Standardized Recipes A standardized recipe is a standard operating procedure, a set of instructions on how to prepare and present food products for a specific operation. Standardized recipes provide the backbone of a profitable kitchen by allowing managers to accurately monitor and evaluate food production, workers, and equipment. 10

Chapter 2

In addition, standardized recipes offer a tool for consistency in mise en place. An effective standardized recipe should include the following information: Recipe name Or Edible portion yield

Portion size Equipment needed, listed in order of use Ingredients, listed in order of use Staged production instructions Active times Cooking times

BOS ee Oe Plating instructions OT

oO

Where possible, a photograph to benchmark the item for the reader

Using a Prep List for Mise en Place A prep list is a list of specific requirements for an operation’s menu and production setup. Like a standardized recipe, a prep list encourages consistency at the preproduction stage by providing a definitive resource for workers to determine the operation’s needs during a given shift or time period. A good prep list should include the following information:

ltems to be prepared, grouped by station Par quantity for each Item, based on historical data Instructions for special menu item preparations

Daily tallies for center-of-the-plate or critical inventory items Task list signoff sheets that designate responsible stakeholders A column that identifies work that has been successfully completed A signature area for the responsible person to sign off on production Ocal a eae

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT The Importance of Equipment A valuable and often overlooked step in mise en place Is to determine and gather the equipment needed to complete a recipe or production item. Having the necessary tools available can save many footsteps and traffic jams in critical areas and allows the cook to determine ahead

of time whether any problems may alter his or her completion of the work. Equipment in a food service operation should be kept in excellent condition because of the nature and accessibility of pathogens, toxins, and bacteria that can contaminate the work area. Pots, pans, and china

should be kept clean, dry, and sanitized at all times. Knives should be sharpened and sanitized often. Ovens should be preheated and thermometers should be calibrated for each shift.

Knives A chef is only as good as his or her knives. Knives must be well cared for, treated with respect,

and allowed to do the work asked of them. In the garde manger kitchen, some knives are used more often because of the nature of the work. They include the following: e Flexible utility knife for fabricating various meats, vegetables, and fruits

e Tourne knife for turning and carving vegetables Mise en Place

11

e Oyster knife for opening raw oysters

e¢ Clam knife for opening raw clams e Serrated slicer for bread, firmer vegetables, and del-

icate items e Flexible slicer for slicing patés, terrines, and other

items rf

e Tomato or serrated utility knife for delicate ripe fruits and vegetables

Other Garde Manger Tools In addition to a garde manger chef’s knives, many tools are also common

in the cold kitchen. They include the

following: e Ball or shape cutter for decorative cuts of vegetables

and fruit e Vegetable

carving

tools

for

carving

decorative

centerpieces

e Channel knife for garnish work ¢ Heavy-duty sieve for forcemeat production e Various

Variety of Knives

cheese

knives

to improve

efficiency and

yield e Larding and lancing needles e Various molds, terrines, and shaping pans

e Ring molds, PVC pipes, and other shaping devices

Variety of Kitchen Tools

12

Chapter 2

ESSENTIAL KNIFE SKILLS AND CUTTING TECHNIQUES Standardized Professional Cuts Most professional chefs and cooks are familiar with a standard list of professional knife cuts.

Professional cuts are used to promote even cooking of foods, create balance of texture within a dish, enhance a dish’s appearance, and showcase the skill of the chef.

© Culinary Institute America of

Professional

Knife

Cuts

Professional Knife Cuts

Fine julienne

Me inch x ‘he inch x 2 inches

Julienne (allumette)

Ye inch x 4% inch x 2 inches

Batonnet Fine brunoise Brunoise Small dice Medium dice Large dice Paysanne

1% inch x ‘4 inch x 2 inches the nCh Xx he inch x Ae inch TE NCHS IMCh Xcle Inch %, inch x ‘4 inch x 14 inch inch x > inch x % inch 3/, inch x 3/4, inch x 3/, inch ¥% inch x Y% inch x ¥% inch

Tourne

2-inch length with 7 sides

Mise en Place

13

STEP

By

SIEP

DICING A POTATO

Squaring

Cutting Sticks

Cutting Cubes

Decorative and Other Miscellaneous Professional Cuts

14

Chapter 2

Ca

Utility Cutting Techniques Recipes often require not a decorative cut, but rather a more

uniform cut, such as in the case of tomato coulis; such recipes

rely on the extraction pureed.

of flavor from

the tomato

before

it is

In this case, it is best to coarsely chop or mince the

tomatoes, depending on the level of flavor extraction sought, to of Institute Culinary © Americe ensure

maximum Surface area for flavor extraction. Additionally,

there is no logic in misusing the labor resources of the kitchen Staff to do cuts that take longer when there is little or no tangible benefit.

Chopping A chopping technique is used to produce pieces of similar size but not uniform dimensions. Onions, tomatoes, and herbs that are used

early in a recipe and that will break down, dissolve, or be removed before finishing are examples of ingredients that are often chopped. Such ingredients could be chopped coarsely, as for mirepoix ingredients for a stock, or finely, as in tomato concassé chopped for gar-

nishing platters of food. Mirepoix

Mincing A mincing technique is used to produce a very small chop. Mince and fine-chop are terms that are interchangeable in a professional kitchen. Shallots and garlic are good examples of foods that are often minced before use.

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Mise en Place

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Rough Dicing A rough dicing technique is used to cut foods into uniformly sized, roughly square cubes or pieces. Many chefs use the rough-dicing technique to ensure even cooking and enhance flavor extraction.

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MISE EN PLACE TECHNIQUES Before many preparations can begin, many smaller and less product-specific preparations

must be completed, such as preparing clarified butter, rinsing vegetables or fruits, and making breadcrumbs. These preparations do not make up a dish themselves, yet they are needed in other recipes and production processes.

Prewashing and Cleaning Before processing produce items such as carrots, beets, radishes, potatoes, celery, lettuces, herbs, and leeks, it is a good idea to wash them to remove most of the dirt and debris that can

contaminate or damage a recipe.

SiEP BY Glee CLEANING ROOT VEGETABLES Place root vegetables in a generous amount of cold water and let soak for 10 minutes. Pass the vegetables through a final change of clean water and remove. The root vegetables are now ready for further preparation.

16

Chapter 2

With a firm-bristled vegetable brush, gently brush the exterior of the root to remove any loose Baud pockets of dirt. Change the water as needed.

Cleaning Leafy Greens, Lettuces, and Herbs Most greens and lettuces come either in loose leaf or in head or bunch form; the processes for

washing both varieties is similar.

Stee

BY BY Stee SIEP

TRIMMING AND WASHING HEAD GREENS, LETTUCES, AND HERBS Gently break off the leaves as close to the stem as possible. For head lettuces, pare closely around the core, being sure to pull out all of the solid fiber.

Wash the leaves in a generous amount of cold water by soaking them briefly and then removing the leaves from the water. Repeat, changing the water between cycles, until the water left behind is clean.

2 |Sort the leaves and discard any bruised, damaged, or wilted leaves.

4 |Place the leaves in a salad spinner and spin dry. Store in a perforated pan placed in a hotel pan, covered by a damp cloth; this will prevent

the greens from sitting in residual water.

Clarifying Butter Most professional recipes that call for butter require the use of clarified butter because of its physical attributes: higher smoke point, purer flavor, consistent reactions, and storage

Stability. Clarified butter is butter that has had most of the milk solids and impurities removed,

leaving behind

almost pure butterfat.

Butter can

be clarified using one of two

methods.

PSiEP

BY BY STEP SiEP

CLARIFYING

BUTTER—METHOD

Place the butter in a saucepot and melt it slowly over low heat.

1

2 |When the butter is melted, remove it from the

heat and skim the top foam layer off the surface.

Ladle the butter into a clean container, leaving behind the milk solids at the bottom of the pan.

oter BY STEP CLARIFYING BUTTER—METHOD 2 Place the butter in a saucepot and melt it slowly over moderate heat. Continue to cook the butter, skimming the

surface of foam and impurities occasionally, until all of the water content has evaporated.

2 |When the butter is melted, skim the top foam

layer off the surface.

4 |Strain the butter through a cheesecloth-lined chinoise into a clean container, leaving behind the remaining milk solids.

Mise en Place

17

Ghee Ghee is a staple ingredient of the Indian kitchen. Ghee is clarified butter that has been heated and strained to remove the sediment that separated from the butterfat. Ghee has rich and buttery flavor characteristics. Because of ghee’s purity, it can be kept at moderate room temperature.

Peeling Techniques for Light-Skinned Vegetables and Fruits Many fruits and vegetables are coated with a protective skin. In some cases this skin is flavorful, tender, and easy to deal with: in other cases, the skin may be tough, fibrous, bitter, or coated with a waxy

film. There are four basic methods for peeling foods that must have their skin removed: using a tool

(peeler, grater, zester, microplane, or knife), roasting, blanching and shocking, and deep-frying. =

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PEELING METHOD—ROASTING Place the food, skin side up, on a grill or broiler grate as close to the heat as possible.

Turn the food often as the skin chars, being careful not to cook the flesh.

When the skin is charred and blistered, remove the food from the heat and wrap it in alu-

4 |Remove the foil and gently peel the skin away from the flesh.

minum foil. Allow the food to rest for 10 minutes. a

18

Chapter 2

Note: This method is used mainly for peppers, tomatoes, and other light-skinned vegetables.

————————

STE

BY

S| EP

PEELING METHOD—DEEP-FRYING GB Heat oil to 375°F. Place the whole food in the

@ When the skin is blistered, remove the food

basket and submerge it in the hot oil for 30 seconds. 3 |Remove the foil and gently peel the skin away from the flesh.

from the oil and drain it on dry paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Wrap it in aluminum foil and allow the food to rest for 10 minutes.

Note: This method is used mainly for peppers, tomatoes, and other light skinned vegetables.

ISTEP BY STEP | PEELING METHOD—BLANCHING AND SHOCKING Bh At the bottom end of the fruit or vegetable, make a small X-shaped incision. Submerge the food in boiling water for 30 seconds. When the food is sufficiently drained, gently peel the skin away from the flesh

@ When the skin appears to loosen at the incision, remove the food from the water and immediately place it in an ice bath to stop the cooking process. Allow the food to rest for 1 minute, then remove the food and drain it on dry paper towels.

Note: This is the primary method of peeling and skinning tomatoes for tomato concassé and for many varieties of light-skinned fruits such as peaches.

Tomato Concassé Many recipes call for tomato to be added at the end of a dish; tomato concassé is the choice

ingredient because its skin and seeds are removed and it is chopped, providing texture and appeal to the finished dish.

Halving, Quartering, Seeding, and

Planking

Blanching Tomatoes

Peeling Tomato

Seeding Using Crosscut

Chopping Tomatoes

Mise en Place

19

Standard Breading Procedure Most foods that are deep-fried or pan-fried are coated with dry ingredients or with a batter. This work should be done before service production, as long as the quality of the product does not diminish. Breaded items are usually coated in a seasoned mixture of bread crumbs, cracker meal, cornmeal, or

other starch meal. Battered items are usually coated in a liquid combined with a starch meal or flour and some form of seasoning. One of the simplest batters, tempura, is merely rice flour and water.

Bread Crumbs Bread crumbs are available fresh or dried. The use of fresh versus dried is one of desire rather than necessity. Both products have advantages,

duced three

and both may be either pro-

in-house or purchased. times

the volume

Fresh

of crumbs

bread yields about prepared

from

dry

bread; fresh bread crumbs will have a lighter texture and will absorb less fat during cooking.

However, fresh bread

crumbs are fragile and require a very good breading procedure to ensure a good presentation.

Dry bread always

yields less volume than fresh bread, yet dried crumbs are

a more Stable product, offer a consistent protective coat-

ing, and are more

resistant to browning early than fresh

Crumbs are.

Standard Procedure for Coating with Batter

eiEP BY Siee MAKING BREAD CRUMBS Cube or tear the bread into uniform pieces and place in the bowl of a food processor.

2 |Grind the bread until the desired consistency is obtained.

Note: Fresh bread will produce a larger volume of bread crumbs. Dried bread crumbs should be passed through a tamis to separate sizes of crumb.

Toasting Nuts, Spices, and Seeds

foasting Seed 20

Chapter 2

and Spice Mixture

Many nuts, spices, and seeds can be lightly toasted to bring out or enhance their natural flavors. In many spice mixes, the whole spices are toasted before being ground to deepen the flavors. Toasting can be done either on the stove top in a heavy-bottomed pan set over

medium

heat or on a lined sheet pan in a 350-degree

oven. Either method

is effective, and both require careful

attention as the products can scorch and burn rapidly.

Plumping Dehydrated Fruits and Vegetables Plumping (steeping), or introducing a dehydrated food into warm liquid, is an effective method of developing flavor complexity and length. some dehydrated use.

Raisins,

dried

Dehydrated

fruits and vegetables and

meat products must be softened mushrooms,

sun-dried

before

tomatoes,

and

beef jerky are examples of foods that may be plumped. Using wine,

liquor, stock, marinade, or brine as the liquid can

further enhance the flavor of a rehydrated food. Toasting Nuts on Parchment-Lined Tray

Spice Mixtures Spices can be used alone or in mixtures that create unique flavor profiles and characteristics that differ among ethnic cuisines, regions, and individual chefs.

Quatre épices, a mixture of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and black pepper, is a principal ingredient in the preparation of many charcuterie items. Curry powder, garam masala, quatre epices,

Chinese

five-spice

powder,

chili powder,

barbecue

rubs, and

pickling

spices are all good examples of mixtures that are popular among professional chefs. Curry powder is a mixture of spices and seeds found in Indian cuisine. Invented by the British during their occupation of India, curry has become a mainstay in many kitchens around

the world for its sweetly pungent and hot flavor profile. Garam masala, also of Indian oriPlumping:

Steeping

Water to Rehydrate

Raisins in Hot

gin, iS a ground mixture of toasted coriander, cumin, cardamom,

clove, nutmeg, cinna-

mon,

mixture of cinnamon,

and black pepper.

clove, Szechuan

Chinese five-spice powder is a ground

peppercorns,

ginger, and star anise. Chinese five-spice powder is best

used early in the cooking process to release and tame many of its components’

flavor

characteristics. Chili powder is a mixture of powdered onions, garlic, cumin, chilies, Mexican oregano, cayenne

pepper,

print for braised or simmered

black pepper, and paprika. Often used as a flavor footmeats, chill powder can be used as a dusting garnish or

perhaps as a vinaigrette component.

Barbecue has taken root across much of America,

giving way to many regional barbecue spice rubs and mixtures. These mixtures rely heavily on understanding the essential characteristics and traits of each ingredient and then promoting a balanced flavor profile when the components are com-

bined as a unified spice mixture. Additionally, chefs often create unique spice mixtures that become signatures to their own cuisines.

Herb Mixtures As with spices, many recipes rely on the flavor characteristics of herbs to provide enhance-

ment and balance. Herbs add excitement, vitality, and freshness to many foods and at many different stages of cooking. Herbs are often mixed to promote a balanced flavor profile. Fines

herbes, herbes de Provence, gremolata, and persillade are good examples of herb mixtures that have gained profound popularity among professional chefs. Fines herbes is a mixture of chervil, chives, and tarragon, mainstays of classical French cuisine. Fines herbes can be used

as an end garnish, as an ingredient in a sauce or vinaigrette, or as a component to a light protein preparation. Herbes de Provence, a dried herb mixture composed of thyme, sage, fennel, savory, rosemary, and bay leaf that is popular in Mediterranean cuisine, is often used early in Mise en Place

21

the cooking process to provide a robust earthy flavor. Gremolata, an Italian herb mixture commonly associated with osso bucco, is a mixture of lemon zest, sage, rosemary, anchovy, and garlic. Gremolata should be used just before service so the vibrant essence of the citrus is not lost in the cooking process. Persillade, a minced herb mixture of parsley leaves, garlic, and lemon zest, is used mainly with sautéed meats and other light proteins.

Rendering Fat Animal fats can be used directly from meat, as with the fatback used in charcuterie, or it can be rendered, or extracted from the physical structure of the meat, and used as a flavor agent in many different preparations. Foie gras fat is sometimes saved for use in potato or risotto recipes, where a little fat yields great flavor. Fats that remain in the pan after roasting meat can also be used to make quick warm vinaigrettes as well. Rendering fat is a long process and rarely can be accelerated, often taking four or five

hours. The cracklings that remain after rendering can be used as crispy garnishes to salads,

appetizers, or canapés.

STEP

BY BY SiEP STEP |

RENDERING FAT Ge Cut the fat into uniform large dice, roughly 1” cubes. Once the water has evaporated, remove the

fat from the heat and cool it slightly. Strain the fat into containers and place it in the cooler.

2 | Place the fat in a sufficiently sized pot. Add enough water to come halfway up the fat. Place on low heat. Continue to heat until the fat has melted and all the water has evaporated.

Note: Season the cracklings with salt and pepper after step 3 and reserve them for use with other preparations. Steaming (placing fat in a perforated pan on top of a drip pan in the steamer) can also render fat from meats. Steaming produces a less pure fat than the preceding method.

Dough Garde manger work often calls for the chef to produce a variety of savory pastry preparations. Most pastry doughs are basic and require minimal pastry or baking experience to prepare. The following doughs are commonly used:

i

Pate a paté (savory meat pie dough)

2

Pate brisée (unsweetened tart dough)

3.

Puff pastry

4.

Cracker dougn

5

Choux pastry (a light pastry made with egg, that is oftened used for éclairs, profiteroles and as a binding agent in charcuterie)

6.

Suet dough (a mixture of salt, flour, and rendered suet)

Blanching and Shocking

Blanching with Fat 22

Chapter 2

Because of time restraints for service production, some foods, mostly starches and vegetables, require some form of blanching as part of their mise en place. Blanching is a way of parcooking a food item very briefly by submerging it in boiling water or hot fat. Blanching is done to shorten the cooking times of some foods, to set the pigment of some fruits and vegetables, and to soften the fibers of some fruits and vegetables; sometimes, as in the case of garlic or onions,

it is done to remove undesirable flavor attributes. Most foods

that are blanched in water are generally shocked in an ice

bath to stop the cooking process. Some foods, such as potatoes, can be blanched in hot fat.

Notes on French Fries Fresh-cut French fries need to be blanched, then fried a second time. The blanching helps gelatinize the potato starch by causing the free water of the potato to be absorbed

by the

starch. The second frying makes the French fries crispy by Sealing them in a natural coating of potato starch, the byproduct of the blanching process.

Cooling Foods Cooling: [ce Bath

Foods that are mise en place and parcooked or blanched must undergo some form of cooling so they can be held for service time. Cooling of food is important to reduce the risk of food-borne illness and to retain as much quality as possible.

Cooling is done by shocking blanched food using an ice bath, by increasing the surface area of a food, or by venting properly with running cold water or an ice bath. The goal of all cooling methods is to stop the cooking process and to rapidly

chill the food.

Cooling: Natural Shock with Lined Trays

Insti Culinary ©

Cooling: Venting of a Liquid in Steel Mise en Place

23

HOLDING TECHNIQUES Maintaining quality while holding foods for service production is of primary concern. Foods can

be held until service production begins in several ways: 1.

Store in cooler

2.

Store in freezer

3.

Hold warm

Regardless of the technique, the storage method chosen should be based on maintaining safe

and sanitary conditions (by keeping foods out of the danger zone, the critical temperature from AO to 140° F and free from contamination), ensuring ease of use during service production, preserving quality, and maximizing yield.

CONVENIENCE Ready-to-use,

convenience-type

foods

FOODS are

increasingly

available

in abundant

supply.

Convenience foods require no advance preparation before service production. Generally convenience foods come canned, packaged fresh, or packaged frozen and can be finished in a small amount of time. Convenience foods are designed to relieve workers of mundane mise en place tasks such as peeling garlic cloves, cutting vegetables for crudité platters, fabricating fish, and peeling shrimp. They have advantages,

but they can be relatively expensive.

Chefs should carefully consider each convenience food purchase and its impact on labor costs and resources

within the operation. Additionally,

many

convenience

foods lack the

nuances of good cooking that can be gained only from principled cookery at the hands of a good chef. If convenience foods are to be included as part of the inventory of an operation, they must be held to the same strict standards of other mise en place items. Some people believe that convenience foods are resistant to food-borne illness, damage, and spoilage, but this is not true.

Often more care must be taken with convenience items, given such misguided perceptions.

CHAPTER SUMMARY This chapter has shown that contemporary commercial cooking, both hot and cold, is based on effective and efficient planning of preproduction mise en place. Chefs who can plan, organize, and manage this production stage gain tools that enable better consistency, manage-

ment, and forecasting of human, product, and fiscal resources. Commercial cookery is also based on a platform of time-tested techniques, processes, and principles. This chapter has exposed you to many of the standard techniques and principles used by garde manger chefs.

24

Chapter 2

aw

Provide the dimensions

—s

dardized professional knife cuts: fine julienne, juli-

2

enne,

batonnet,

for the following stan-

fine brunoise,

brunoise,

small

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Provide a sketch of a standard breading procedure.

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dice, large dice, paysanne,

and

tourne.

Discuss the importance of mise en place in a commercial kitchen. What considerations must be factored into a deci-

sion to purchase and use a ready-to-use convenience food?

Provide three examples of foods that must be

Select an appetizer recipe from Chapter 9 and,

blanched and shocked and give rationales for un-

using the four steps in determining the mise en

dergoing the process.

place of a recipe from this chapter, make a list of

the

mise

en

preparation.

place

items

associated

with

its

What is the purpose of having an industry-wide standard for some knife cuts?

pom

Mise en Place

SAUCES IN THE COLD KITCHEN Garde manger chefs, like their hot-cookery counterparts, have an arsenal of sauces they can use to enhance a dish’s true character and quality. As in hot cookery, garde manger chefs rely heavily on their ability to create many derivative sauces from a leading sauce (mayonnaise) or a master sauce technique (simple vinaigrette). A technique, once mastered, can often produce a veritable bounty of sauce possibilities. Once a chef has been taught the master technique for making a vinaigrette dressing, he or she can make many light, vibrant sauces to enhance a variety of protein-, vegetable-, and fruit-based preparations. After learning the technique of mayonnaise, the chef can make a thousand or more salad dressings, dips, and specialty-sauce derivatives. The contemporary garde manger relies on techniques and his or her own ability to adapt leading sauces to a range of flavor footprints.

FUNCTIONS OF SAUCES Sauces function as enhancers or accessories to the main dish or a larger component within a dish or preparation. Sauces are not intended to be stand-alone items; they are always an enhancer to a larger, more primary item, not to be consumed in isolation. Sauces enable the garde manger chef to showcase his or her attention to detail, kKnowledge of the craft of cooking, and artistic skills. Most commonly a sauce serves one of the fol-

lowing functions: Add moisture Enhance flavor

Intensify or provide richness, color, and vibrance

he gle Reh ae Promote textural and visual balance

COMPONENTS

OF SAUCES

Cold sauces are composed of the following three distinctive components: 1.

A liquid base

2.

A thickening agent

3.

Seasoning and flavor ingredients

The Liquid Base The liquid base provides the base ingredient or the body of a sauce. Although classic hot cook-

ery relies heavily on the use of stocks and dairy products, the contemporary garde manger chef can use fresh fruit and vegetable juices, various oils and vinegars, stocks and light bouillons, meat glazes, various jellies and preserves, yogurt, sour cream, and even simply water as the foundation of a sauce.

The Thickening Agent A thickening agent should not be limited to a particular ingredient; technique can also play a role in the thickening of a sauce. A special technique of sauce reduction is often a prized secret of a garde manger chef. Given the increased popularity of nutritional cuisine, reductions and simple slurries provide a needed element of body in a great number of cold sauces. 28

Chapter 3

Egg yolks, mustard, meat glazes, and some dairy products work as emulsifiers, if not on their own then in various combinations. For example, a classic cream-based salad dressing is

a simple mixture of cream and white vinegar, which produces a less viscous liquid than the two ingredients by themselves. The change in body occurs because of the reaction in which the acid begins to denature the protein in the cream, thereby hindering the fat’s ability to form a mass and separate into individual components.

Seasoning and Flavor Ingredients Seasoning and flavor ingredients are the tools that provide balance, appeal, and enhanced interest to a given sauce. Although the basic flavor and body come from the liquid base and the thickening agent, the seasoning and flavor ingredients enhance the sauce and the overall dish. Some flavor ingredients often serve dual roles. For example, the nuts in a pesto promote a thicker mouth feel for the sauce, at the same time enhancing the piquantness of the sauce

and the overall flavor. A master vinaigrette technique can be altered into a thousand or more derivations by simply changing one or more of the ingredients, much as a classic mother sauce in hot cookery

can form thousands of derivations by interchanging various flavor ingredients and profiles.

PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR SAUCES The ability of a chef to produce a consistent and predictable product is of vast importance;

therefore, each product or preparation must have some form of rubric for its evaluation and

critique. The rubrics are often referred to as professional standards of quality. meet the desired criteria or benchmarks

A sauce must

set forth by the chef in the standardized

recipe.

Sauces often are ranked or evaluated in the following categories: Body

Consistency Texture Flavor

tee Ce ke Appearance

Body Body, often referred to as the structure of a sauce, is the overall feel of the sauce. Does it have

a weight to it, like a good meat glaze or veloute, or is it thin like water or a vinaigrette dressing?

Consistency Consistencyis the sauce’s degree of viscosity as set forth in the recipe. A coulis should be pourable; a mayonnaise should hold its own shape; an aspic gelée should be semisolid, yet malleable.

Texture Texture is the smoothness of a sauce. If it is an herb oil, a fruit or vegetable purée, or a cold

puree soup the texture should be refined and velvety.

Flavor Flavor, the most subjective standard of professional quality, is of critical importance for the chef. The flavors must be distinctive, yet maintain a balance that shows the component's true Sauces, Salad Dressings, and Condiments

29

character and qualities. The sauce should be properly seasoned, yet not out of balance in any of the four main areas of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.

Appearance Appearance refers to the sauce’s intended look, shine, and color. The sauce should have the required sheen, opaqueness, and intensity that the recipe calls for; this is one criterion that

most customers will notice.

CATEGORIES OF GARDE MANGER SAUCES Common garde manger sauces can be generally placed in one of the following categories: cold emulsions (vinaigrettes and mayonnaise), salad dressings, coulis and purées, coating sauces,

and condiments.

Cold Emulsions Simple vinaigrettes, emulsified vinaigrettes, and mayonnaise are some of the most common sauces used in the food service industry; these three sauce types are commonly known as cold

emulsion sauces. An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids,




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YIELD: 10 entrée salads

2 cantaloupes, halved, seeded, and sliced into crescent shapes

1. Arrange the melons on a plate, forming a single layered sunburst

2 baby watermelons, halved, seeded, and sliced into crescent

pattern.

shapes

2.

2 honeydew melons, halved, seeded, and sliced into crescent

Combine the honey, vinegar, salt, and pepper and mix well until the

honey Is dissolved.

shapes 1/2 c. honey

3.

Drizzle the dressing over the melons and garnish with chive batons and mint leaves.

4 fl. oz. balsamic vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 oz. fresh chive, 1-inch batonnet, cut on the bias

1 oz. fresh mint leaves, torn

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2 tsp. mustard powder

1. Combine the mustard powder, vinegar, tamari, sesame oil, ginger

1/3 c. rice vinegar

juice, orange juice, peanut oil, and red pepper flakes in a large non-

2 Tbsp. tamari 1

tsp.

SPs Se

sesame oil

reactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Season with salt and pepper. 2.

1 Tbsp. ginger juice

well. Add enough dressing to coat the ingredients. Allow to rest for

2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 4 fl. oz. peanut oil

1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, toasted

Combine the lettuce, cabbage, carrot, celery, snow peas, bean ; a ; Sprouts, onion, and peanuts in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix

10 minutes before service. 3.

Serve each portion of salad with a drizzle of the remaining dressing

and a grind of black pepper.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 c. romaine lettuce, trimmed, washed, and spun dry, chiffonade

2 c. napa cabbage, trimmed, washed, and spun dry, chiffonade

1 c. carrots, fine julienne

1 c. celery, sliced on the bias 1/s inch thick 1 c. snow peas, fine julienne 1 c. mung bean sprouts 1c. red onions, fine julienne 1 c. peanuts, toasted and chopped

Salads

85

4.38 THREE-ONION SALAD YIELD:

10 entrée salads or 1 large buffet platter

4 Vidalia onions, peeled and halved

Preheat a grill to medium-high.

2 bunches leeks, trimmed to 4 inches of white only

Lightly coat the onion, leek, and scallion pieces with canola oil and grill until the fibers have softened and the onions have caramelized. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

2 bunches scallions, trimmed to 6 inches of white and green parts

Canola oil 6 Tbsp. champagne or white wine vinegar 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp. fresh chervil leaves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Combine the vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, chervil, salt,

and pepper in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk to combine. Slowly add the olive oil, drop by drop at first, then building to a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Toss the frisée Place mounds cooked onions grette over the

with half of the dressing in a nonreactive mixing bowl. of frisée in the center of each plate. Arrange the by type around the frisée. Drizzle the remaining vinalonions. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

4 c. frisée, trimmed, washed, and spun dry

4.39 FRESH VEGETABLE SLAW YIELD: 1 large buffet platter

1 Ib. carrots, finely shredded

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

1/2 c. red onion, fine julienne

Allow the flavors to mature for at least 1 hour. Make sure all of the

1 c. cider vinegar

sugar and salt has been dissolved by turning the slaw over before Service.

2 |b. cabbage, finely shredded, salted, and rinsed

4 fl. oz. olive oil 6 Tbsp. fresh chervil or parsley, chopped 4 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

4.40 HEIRLOOM APPLE AND WALNUT WALDORF SALAD YIELD: 1 large buffet platter

2 c. heavy cream

I. Whip the cream in a large nonreactive mixing bowl to form medium-

1/2 ©. mayonnaise

stiff peaks. Add the mayonnaise and sugar and mix well.

4 Tbsp. granulated sugar

Combine the apples, walnuts, celery, onion, chive, and tarragon in a

5 Ib. heirloom apples, cored, medium dice

large nonreactive mixing bowl and mix well. Add the dressing and gently fold to mix.

1 c. walnut pieces 1c. celery stalks, peeled, small dice

4 Tbsp. Vidalia onion, brunoise 1/2 c. fresh chive, finely chopped 4 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, finely chopped

Bibb lettuce cups or radicchio leaves

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Chapter 4

Serve in Bibb lettuce cups or radicchio leaves as part of a larger entrée or as an accompaniment to a buffet.

4.41 MEXICAN RICE SALAD YIELD: 1 large buffet platter

1 c. spinach leaves, washed

1.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1/2 c. fresh cilantro leaves and stems, washed

2.

Combine the spinach, cilantro leaves and stems, stock, and yogurt in the container of a blender and purée until smooth. Transfer to a nonreactive pot and bring to a hard simmer.

6 c. chicken stock 1c. yogurt des

Sliteoll

3.

;

TY

Heat 6 tablespoons olive oil to the smoke point in a nonreactive ovensafe pot. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add

3 c. converted long-grain rice

the liquid mixture and stir well. Cover tightly, transfer to the oven, and

1 c. corn kernels 1/2 ¢. red onion, chopped

bake until the rice has absorbed all of the liquid, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and spread the rice in a single layer on a :

sheet tray

2 poblano peppers, brunoise 1 ;

4.

/2 c. red bell pepper, brunoise lc. fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

:

to cool to room temperature.

‘

Combine the rice, corn, onion, poblano, bell pepper, chopped cilantro, orange juice, lime juice, chili powder, and the remaining

olive oil and stir well to combine. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before

4 fl. oz. fresh orange juice

service.

4 fl. oz. fresh lime juice

5.

Garnish with fresh cilantro leaves and segmented orange or lime.

2 Tbsp. chili powder

4.42 TUSCAN

BREAD SALAD

YIELD: 1 large buffet platter

4 Ib. ripe tomatoes, large dice 2 garlic cloves,

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl.

minced

2 oz. Italian parsley, leaves only,

Mix well. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before service.

2.

Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil 2 oz. basil leaves, torn

4 c. rustic crusty bread, stale, large dice Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4.43 LENTIL AND PINE NUT SALAD YIELD: 1 large buffet platter 2 |b. French green lentils, cooked, drained, and rinsed

1.

Combine all of the ingredients in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

1 medium shallot, minced

2.

Allow to chill and mature for at least 2 hours before service.

1c. pine nuts, lightly toasted

4 oz. Dijon mustard

1 c. extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves, chopped 2 oz. chervil, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Salads

87

4.44 SALADE

FRUITS DE NV

YIELD:

10 entrée salads

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1.

8 oz. white shrimp, 16-20 count, peeled, deveined, and rinsed 8 oz. dry sea scallops, 10-20 count, side muscle removed,

patted dry 8 oz. jumbo Jump crab meat

lump crab.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2.

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 2 oz. mesclun or bitter greens, trimmed, washed, and spun dry

Heat the canola oil in a large sauté pan until smoking. Add the shrimp and sauté, stirring constantly, until just opaque white, about 2 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the pan, drain on a plate lined with paper towels, and season with salt and pepper. Repeat the process with the scallops. Allow the shrimp and scallops to cool slightly and then combine in a nonreactive bowl and toss with the

3.

Zest of 1 lemon

Mix the lemon juice and olive oil in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Add the greens, lemon zest, and shallot and toss quickly to blend. Layer a mound of greens in the center of each plate. Arrange the

melon slices in series of 2-piece fans around the greens. Place small

1 shallot, minced

bundles of seafood between each of the melon fans. Garnish with

2 large cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, quartered, and sliced into very

freshly ground black pepper and any vinaigrette remaining in the

thin fans

bottom of the salad bowl.

4.45 MUSHROOM-GRUYER E SALAD YIELD: 1 large buffet platter

3 lb. white button mushrooms, thinly sliced

1.

2 c. Gruyére cheese, grated 4 fl. oz. extra virgin olive oil

Zest and juice of 2 lemons 2 oz. Italian parsley, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

88

Chapter 4

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 2 hours before service.

2.

Taste, adjust the seasonings as needed, and serve.

4.46 ASIAN DUCK SALAD NAIEIED: 10 entrée salads or 1 large buffet platter

1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground

Combine the coriander seeds, mustard seeds, curry powder, ground

11/2 tsp. brown and yellow mustard seeds, ground

peppercorns, sugar, star anise, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper in a small bowl. Apply this rub to the duck breasts.

1 tsp. curry powder

Render and sear the duck breasts over medium heat until mediumrare. Remove from the pan and allow to cool to room temperature or slightly warmer. Slice the breasts on the bias to get 8 thin slices per breast.

1/4 tsp. Szechuan peppercorns, ground

1/4 tsp. brown sugar 1/4 tsp. ground star anise 1 tsp. salt, plus more to taste

Mix the cellophane noodles, spinach, and cilantro together by hand in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Use a twisting and uplifting motion to ensure that the ingredients have intertwined.

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 10 duck breasts, patted dry 1 Ib. cellophane noodles, reconstituted and ready for service

Combine the sesame oil, canola oil, honey, rice vinegar, and half of the sesame seeds in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Toss with the

4 c. Chinese water spinach, washed and spun dry, chiffonade

noodle mixture.

2 oz. fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems attached

Place a tight pile of the noodle mixture off-center on a round dinner plate. Place the sliced duck breasts in a shingle fashion coming around the arc of the noodle pile. Drizzle the white space of the salad plate with any dressing remaining at the bottom of the bowl and sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds.

1 Tbsp. sesame oil 2 Tbsp. canola oil

2 Tbsp. honey

2 Tbsp. rice vinegar 1 Tbsp. black, brown, and white sesame seeds

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

Salad preparations are many different things: they are appetizers, entrees, side dishes, parts of multi-course meals, and even desserts. They come in many forms and are served at various times within a meal.

Salads stimulate appetites, aid in digestion, and promote efficiency and profitability for a menu. There is an unlimited potential to capture an audience by the combination of ingredients and the techniques employed to harmonize the whole of the salad.

1.

2.

3.

List and discuss the functions of the four primary

When preparing a green salad, what Is the primary

components of salads.

concern with regard to dressing the salad?

Discuss how aressing can act as a binding agent

Discuss the differences between vinaigrette and

for compound salads.

emulsified dressings.

Of the three categories of salads, which

is the

most labor intensive and challenging to design,

What is the standard procedure for washing and storing salad greens?

produce, and distribute? 4.

Discuss the importance of seasonality in selecting ingredients for salads.

DISCUSSION QUESTIONS FOR Salads

89

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WHAT IS A SANDWICH? Sandwiches are complete entrées designed to be user friendly and relatively quick in their preparation, production, and consumption. The sandwich is an invaluable tool to the modern garde manger chef. If we approach the sandwich from an architectural standpoint, then it is merely a combination of four components—bread, spread, filling, and garnish.

SANDWICH

TYPES

Regardless of particular styles, preparations, or methods, sandwiches can be broken down into a few universal categories:

basic cold or hot sandwiches,

stacked sandwiches,

open-faced

sandwiches, finger or tea sandwiches, canapés, and variety or specialty sandwiches. Basic cold and hot sandwiches share some similarities; they are both composed

of two

pieces of a bread component that encases the filling, garnish, and spread. Cold sandwiches are served cold, using raw or precooked and chilled ingredients, whereas hot sandwiches are

served hot, using a combination of raw, precooked, and cooked-to-order ingredients. Stacked sandwiches are closely related to basic cold and hot sandwich varieties, except

that they are created with multiple layers of ingredients and a minimum of three pieces of the bread component. The club sandwich is a good example of a stacked sandwich.

Open-faced sandwiches have a single base layer of bread and are then finished with the Spread, filling, and garnish. Special attention should always be paid to the presentation of open-faced sandwiches because there is no enclosing piece of bread. Finger or tea sandwiches are generally more delicate, largely using more refined ingredients. Typically these sandwiches are cut and shaped to highlight their service style. Finger and tea sandwiches are generally no more than one or two bites in size because they are often served with cocktails or as part of a formal tea service. Canapés are similar in composition to finger or tea sandwiches, except that they are most often served as an amuse-bouche or as a component of an hors d’oeuvre menu. Canapés are commonly created with a single base layer of bread, then topped with the spread, filling, and

garnish. In general, canapés are the most artistic of sandwiches. Special attention should al-

ways be paid to canapé presentation; because of the service style for canapés, they are often

An Array of Sandwiches 92

Chapter 5

one of the first contacts a diner has with the food for that meal. Canapés will be covered in more detail in Chapter 9. Variety and specialty sandwiches are those that do not have a structure representative of

only one of the previous categories. Variety and specialty sandwiches may have a particular ethnic origin, combine two sandwich categories, or perhaps be a contemporary twist of a clasSic sandwich style.

SANDWICH

COMPONENTS As discussed at the beginning of this chapter, a sand-

wich is a meal formed using four components: bread, spread, filling, and garnish (Table 5.1). The bread is the vessel or container of a Sandwich;

it is the component that holds the sandwich together. Today’s melting-pot culture provides a wide selection for the bread component.

Popular selections include

the basic Pullman loaf, artisan breads, tortillas, crepes, pitas, naan, focaccia, and hero rolls, and the list goes

on and on.

The spread is the sauce for a sandwich. The func-

tion of a spread is to enhance flavor and eye appeal. Often the spread provides important moisture for a sandwich, aiding in eating and digestion. Spreads can be as simple as mayonnaise,

mustard, or butter but

can range to vinaigrettes, complex sauces, chutneys, An Assortment

of Breads

and vegetable pastes.

—

The filling is the focal point and main flavor profile of the sandwich. All other components should augment the filling in both flavor and texture. The possibilities for a filling are also immeasurable. Some common choices for a filling include sliced roasted or cooked meats, bound salads,

sliced or grated vegetables, cheeses, fish and shellfish, and various other meats and proteins. The garnish functions as an accessory to the sandwich. A sandwich garnish should en-

hance flavor, provide texture balance, and act as a visual aid. Most commonly the garnish for a sandwich

is a simple lettuce, tomato, and onion setup; however, garnishes can include

seeds, nuts, fruits, cheeses, vegetables, and so on.

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Sandwiches

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Split-Roasted Brine-Cured Pork

Prepared and Mixed Sandwich Fillings

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Chapter 5

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Note: This table shows how varied the choices for a sandwich can be. Try choosing one ingredient from each of the four columns, then matching it to the other ingredients to see if the combination is appetizing.

SELECTING INGREDIENTS Because many sandwiches undergo little, if any, cooking, the chef must purchase and use the best possible ingredients he or she can afford. One of the principal elements in selecting good sandwich ingredients is flavor. Flavor can never be understated as it pertains to produce. Use

the agricultural seasons to your advantage by focusing your menus around the current and upcoming seasons. Foods are always more flavorful, more cost effective, and more marketable when they are fresh, local, and in season.

SANDWICH

MISE EN PLACE

A basic premise of a sandwich is that it can be made with high quality ingredients, at a fair price and at a quick pace. Our dining guests demand speed and quality of these basic preparations; therefore it is important to organize production and plan ahead, having as much work done ahead of production time as possible, with no loss of quality.

Refer to Chapter 2 for the specific techniques addressed in this chapter’s recipes.

SETTING UPA SANDWICH STATION The hallmark of a good garde manger chef is his or her ability to organize an efficient and productive workstation. Careful attention should be paid to the menu selection, assembly procedures, and the menu mix when setting up a sandwich station. Generally speaking, a sandwich station is set up to work toward the expeditor. If the expediting chef is operating from the center of a service line, then a sand-

wich station would be designed to work from the left or right to the center; therefore, all of the finishing ingre-

dients and items would be found closest to the center. For peak efficiency, it is helpful to prepare spreads before service and have them ready at the appropriate consistency.

Slice

breads

before

service

so_

that

assembly takes as little time and effort as possible. Sandwiches

95

Portion fillings during prep time and prepare an adequate amount of ingredients as a backup. These practices help control food costs. Preassemble complex hot sandwiches such as Reubens, Monte Cristos, and croque monsieurs before service and finish them at service time. The key to a successful sandwich station is organization and control. Production should be limited to assembling and finishing the sandwich ingredients to form the whole sandwich.

BASIC ASSEMBLY METHODS ISTEP BY STEP | MAKING A SIMPLE COLD SANDWICH Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Place two slices of bread on the work surface and apply spread to both slices.

Cover the sandwich with the second piece of bread, secure with toothpicks, and slice.

Arrange filling and garnish ingredients on the bread.

Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until Service time.

eiee By Slice MAKING A SIMPLE HOT SANDWICH Mise en place all ingredients according to

and apply spread to both slices.

plates.,and.lpole,

© Place the sandwich in a hot oven and bake

Arrange filling and garnish ingredients on the bread and cover the sandwich with the second :

until hot. Remove from the oven.

Slice of bread.

96

Chapter 5

Place two slices of bread on the work surface

the recipe and gather any necessary equipment,

Secure with toothpicks and slice and serve immediately.

STEP

BY STEP BY STEP.

MAKING A STACKED SANDWICH Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Education/PH Pearson College

Place three pieces of bread on the work surface and apply the spread to all of the slices.

Arrange filling and garnish ingredients for the first layer on one slice of bread.

College Education/PH Pearson

Cover that layer with the middle slice of bread and apply spread to the second side.

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Arrange filling and garnish ingredients for the second layer on the middle slice of bread.

Cover the second layer with the top slice of bread. Secure with toothpicks and slice.

Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until service time.

Sandwiches

97

ISTEP BY STEP | MAKING A WRAPPED SANDWICH 1] Mise en place all ingredients accord-

2|

ing to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

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Arrange filling and garnish ingredients on

Roll the sandwich, forming it into a cylindri-

top of the spread and across the bread.

cal shape, and secure with toothpicks or wrapping paper and slice.

5 |Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until service time.

98

Chapter 5

Slee BY GieP MAKING AN OPEN-FACED SANDWICH a Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Hi

Apply spread to both pieces of bread. a If needed, bake or brown the sandwich as required by the recipe.

Arrange filling and garnish ingredients on the bread.

Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until service time.

Sandwiches

99

IMPORTANCE

OF PRESENTATION

Sandwiches should always be presented in a clean and professional manner. Sandwiches are one of the simplest meals a person can make; therefore, it is essential to impress on the customer that the chef has done something that cannot be accomplished in a home kitchen. Many

customers in today’s market are well educated when it comes to food and wine. Chefs and customers are likely to be on familiar terms with what the value of a dish represents to both parties. A garde manger chef must use professional standards of quality when producing food at the sandwich station. At service time, sandwiches should be placed on clean and polished plates and served with an appropriate functional garnish.

Poorly Presented Sandwich

Properly Arranged Sandwich Presentation

100

Chapter 5

9.1 MONTE CRISTO SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

!

6 eggs

Preheat a griddle to medium heat.

6 Tbsp. heavy cream

Combine the eggs and cream in a large mixing bowl. Mix well to form an egg wash.

10 Tbsp. mustard

20 slices Pullman loaf

Spread 11/2 teaspoons mustard on each slice of bread.

30 oz. ham, precooked, thinly sliced

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, cheese slice, ham, turkey, cheese slice, bread.

30 oz. turkey, precooked, thinly sliced 20 oz. Swiss or Gruyére cheese, thinly sliced

Place the sandwich in the egg wash and coat thoroughly. Grill until the first side is golden brown. Turn carefully and grill until the second side is golden brown. Finish in a moderate oven if needed. Serve with pommes frites, malt vinegar, and a garlic pickle spear.

9.2 FRIED-OYSTER PO’BOY SANDWICH

WITH REMOULADE YIELD: 10 sandwiches

3 c. mayonnaise 5 Tbsp. mustard 3 Tbsp. cornichons, chopped 3 Tbsp. capers, chopped

To make the remoulade, combine the mayonnaise, mustard, cornichons, capers, anchovies, chervil, tarragon, and parsley in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 15 minutes before service. Combine the lettuce, parsley, and vinegar in a nonreactive mixing

5 anchovy fillets, minced

bowl. Mix well. Hold both mixtures until service time.

5 Tbsp. fresh chervil, chopped ;

Combine 1/2 cup flour with the ale to form a medium-thick batter. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Dredge the oysters

5 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, chopped 5 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped 5 c. green leaf lettuce, chiffonade 1c. fresh parsley, chopped

5 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

in flour, then coat in the batter.

Fry the oysters in the vegetable oil at 375°F until golden brown (the oysters should still be medium-rare in the middle). Assemble the sandwiches in this order: hoagie roll bottom, lettuce mixture, remoulade, oysters, remoulade, hoagie roll top.

1/2 c. flour 11/2 c. ale Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

50 select oysters Flour, as needed for dredging

Vegetable oil or lard, as needed for frying

10 hoagie rolls, split

Sandwiches

101

5.3 BACON, HEIRLOOM TOMATO, AND BEET GREENS SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

1c. aioli

1. Spread aioli on each slice of ciabatta.

20 slices ciabatta, lightly toasted

2. Assemble the sandwiches in this order: ciabatta, 3 bacon slices,

30 slices slab bacon, medium crisp : : 20 slices Brandywine tomato, salted

5 c. baby beet greens, misted with olive oil

2 tomato slices, 1/2 cup baby beet greens, ciabatta. Secure with toothpicks.

3.

; Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

5.4 SMOKED TURKEY AND GRILLED EGGPLANT PASTE WITH CORN SPROUTS YIELD: 10 sandwiches

4 small eggplants

1.

Preheat a grill to high heat.

2 shallots, minced 5 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

2.

Grill the eggplants for about 10 minutes, until the flesh is soft and tender inside. Remove from the heat.

5 tsp. fresh lemon juice

3.

When the eggplants have cooled enough to handle, scrape the flesh

Roshier.sait-and treshly ground black pepper, to taste

from the skin and place it in the bowl of a food processor with the Shallots, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Cover with the lid

20 slices artisan-style bread

and pulse to form a rough paste. Scrape into a container and allow to

40 oz. smoked turkey, sliced

cool thoroughly before use.

21/2 c. corn sprouts

4.

Spread eggplant spread on each slice of bread.

20 slices heirloom tomato, salted D0 slices red onion

5.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, turkey, corn sprouts, 2 tomato slices, 2 onion slices, bread. Secure with toothpicks.

6.

Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

9.9 SMOKED SALMON CLUB SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

2 c. Dijon-flavored mayonnaise

1.

30 slices pumpernickel bread, toasted

2. Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, lettuce leaf, smoked

20 green leaf lettuce leaves

salmon, bread (with 1 tablespoon mayonnaise spread on the second side), lettuce leaf, 2 tomato slices, 2 bacon slices, bread. Secure with toothpicks.

20 oz. smoked salmon, sliced 20 large 8 slices tomato, salted

20 slices bacon, slightly crisp

102

Chapter 5

Spread mayonnaise on each slice of bread.

3.

Slice the sandwiches twice on the diagonal to make four triangles and

serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

9.6 FLANK STEAK AND CHIMICHURRI SAUCE FLATBREAD YIELD: 10 sandwiches

3 c. fresh parsley, chopped

To make the chimichurri sauce, combine the parsley, cilantro, shal-

2 c. fresh cilantro, chopped

lots, 1 cup olive oil, 11/2 cups sherry vinegar, and garlic in the bowl of

3 shallots, minced

a food processor. Pulse a few times to form a coarse purée. Transfer the sauce to a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Allow the flavors to

11/2 c. olive oil

mature at room temperature for 1 hour.

13/4 c. sherry vinegar

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

10 garlic cloves, minced

Grill the flank steak until medium-rare, turning only once. Remove from the heat and allow to rest for 2 or 3 minutes. Slice the flank steak on a bias against the grain.

4 lb. beef flank steak, rubbed with oil, salt, and pepper

10 Middle Eastern flatbreads or snowshoe-style breads

Combine the onions, 4/2 cup olive oil, and 4 fl. oz. sherry vinegar in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

2 large sweet onions, julienne

Assemble the sandwiches in the following order: bread, onions, flank steak, chimichurri sauce.

Serve on a platter with a side salad.

9./ LAMB PIADINA WITH PANCETTA, ARUGULA, AND OREGANO SOUR CREAM YIELD: 10 sandwiches

10 pizza dough balls (4 ounces each)

Preheat a grill to high heat.

Olive oil

Roll the dough balls into 10-inch round disks about 1/4 inch thick. Brush each disk with olive oil. Grill the disks for 3 minutes on each side. The dough should be well marked and crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

i

21/2 c. sour cream 2 c. fresh oregano, chopped 1c. red onion, minced

5 garlic cloves, minced

5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 5 c. arugula leaves, misted with olive oil 1 Ib. pancetta slices, 1/s inch thick, grilled crisp

3 Ib. roasted leg of lamb, thinly sliced

Combine the sour cream, oregano, onion, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the flavors to mature for 30 minutes. Transfer the sauce to a squeeze-type bottle.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: grilled piadina dough, arugula, pancetta, lamb, onion julienne, drizzle of sour cream sauce. Place each sandwich on a plate and serve.

3 c. red onion, julienne

Sandwiches

103

5.8 GRILLED SHRIMP SANDWICH WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATO, WATERCRESS, AND VINAIGRETTE YIELD: 10 sandwiches

30 white shrimp (U-12), peeled and deveined

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and grill until the shrimp are slightly opaque. Remove the shrimp from the heat and slice in half lengthwise.

20 baguette slices, sliced in half lengthwise and lightly grilled 20 slices heirloom tomato, salted

5 c. watercress 1c. lemon vinaigrette

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: baguette bottom, 6 shrimp halves, 2 tomato slices, 1/2 cup watercress, lemon vinaigrette,

baguette top. Secure with toothpicks. Slice the baguettes on the diagonal and serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

5.9 PAN BAGNA (BATHED SANDWICH) YIELD: 12 portions; 2 large sandwiches

1 c. pesto 16 anchovy fillets, formed into a paste 2 loaves round crusty olive bread (10 to 12 inches), sliced in half

1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil 1 English cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced lengthwise 1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced lengthwise

1 red onion, julienne 1 red bell pepper, julienne 1 green bell pepper, julienne 2 c. spinach, chiffonade 2 c. Kalamata olives, pitted, chopped

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Chapter 5

Spread the pesto and anchovy paste on both cut sides of the olive bread. Assemble the sandwiches in this order (drizzling olive oil between each layer of vegetables): olive bread bottom, cucumber, carrot, red onion, red bell pepper, green bell pepper, spinach, olives, olive bread top.

Wrap the formed sandwiches tightly in plastic wrap. Place the sandwiches In a container with a 1-pound weight on it. Chill overnight. Remove from the cooler and unwrap. Slice the sandwiches into wedges and serve with a mixed green salad, some cornichons, and assorted crudités.

9.10 OPEN-FACED SEARED FOIE GRAS SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

‘

5 Fuji or Braeburn apples, peeled, small dice 1/2 c. shallots, minced

Combine the diced apples, shallots, vinegar, walnut oil, salt, and honey in a nonreactive saucepot. Cook over medium heat until the

apples are soft and the mixture is reduced by one-third. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.

4 Tbsp. cider vinegar

3 Tbsp. walnut oil

Sear the foie gras. Remove from the heat and hold warm.

2 tsp. kosher salt 4 Tbsp. honey 10 foie gras portions (4 ounces each)

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread spread with apple mixture, beet greens, foie gras, apple julienne, hazelnuts. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

10 slices crusty artisan-style bread, 1/2 inch thick, grilled

5 c. baby beet greens or mesclun-style lettuce

2 Fuji apples, peeled, julienne 1 c. hazelnuts, skins removed, toasted and chopped Freshly ground biack pepper

9.11 DELI-STYLE SANDWICH YIELD:

10 sandwiches

2 c. mayonnaise or mustard

Spread mayonnaise or mustard on each slice of bread.

20 slices rye (or other type) bread, toasted

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, deli meat, lettuce leaf,

4 Ib. sliced deli meat (salami, turkey, ham, roast beef, etc.)

2 tomato slices, 2 onion slices, bread. Secure with toothpicks.

10 leaf lettuce leaves

Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

20 large slices tomato, salted

--

20 slices red onion

5.12 DELI-STYLE HOAGIE WITH OREGANO SOUR CREAM AND ONION-CHERVIL SLAW YIELD: 10 sandwiches

5 Tbsp. olive oil

Combine the olive oil, oregano, and sour cream in a nonreactive mix-

2 c. fresh oregano, chopped

ing bowl. Mix well. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 30 minutes.

1 c. sour cream

1 c. fresh chervil, chopped

Combine the onions, chervil, red pepper flakes, and malt vinegar in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Toss gently to mix the flavors. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 1 hour.

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Spread the oregano sour cream on the insides of the hoagie rolls.

3 Tbsp. malt vinegar

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: hoagie roll bottom, 6 ounces roast beef, onion slaw, hoagie roll top.

Salt and white pepper, to taste

3 red onions, fine julienne

Freshly ground black pepper

10 hoagie rolls, split and lightly toasted

Serve with a generous amount of kettle chips, a garlic pickle spear, and malt vinegar for the chips.

4 |b. roast beef, shaved and salted Sandwiches

105

5.13 LOBSTER ROLL WITH ARUGULA, CORN, AND APPLE YIELD:

10 sandwiches

3 Ib. lobster meat

1.

bowl and mix well. Allow to rest for only a few minutes to mature the

2 c. mayonnaise or boiled dressing

lc. fresh chives, chopped 1 c. corn kernels, blanched and shocked

1/2 c. golden delicious apple, peeled, brunoise

flavors but preserve the texture of the corn and apples.

2.

Toss the arugula with the olive oil and lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.

3.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: kaiser roll bottom, lobster salad, arugula, kaiser roll top. Secure with toothpicks.

4.

Slice the sandwiches in half and serve with a fresh fruit garnish and

5 c. baby arugula 5 Tbsp. olive oil

Combine the lobster meat, mayonnaise, chives, corn, and apple in a

homemade French fries.

5 tsp. fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 10 soft kaiser rolls, sliced in half and grilled

5.14 BACON, LETTUCE, AND TOMATO SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

2 c. mayonnaise 20 slices white bread, toasted

Spread mayonnaise on each slice of bread. 2.

30 slices bacon, medium crisp

20 large tomato slices, salted 10 green leaf lettuce leaves

3.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, 3 bacon slices, 2 tomato slices, lettuce leaf, bread. Secure with toothpicks.

Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

3.15 CROQUE MONSIEUR YIELD: 10 sandwiches

20 slices Pullman loaf, buttered on one side

1/2 c. mustard 11/2 Ib. Swiss or Gruyére cheese, thinly sliced 21/2 |b. ham, precooked, thinly sliced 1.

Preheat a griddle to medium heat.

Spread mustard on each slice of bread. Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, cheese, ham, cheese, bread.

4.

Grill until the first side is golden brown. Turn carefully and grill until the second side is golden brown. Finish in a moderate oven if needed.

5.

Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with pommes frites, malt vinegar, and a garlic pickle spear.

106

Chapter 5

Variations Croque Madame: Spread 2 tablespoons Mornay sauce over the top of the sandwich and brown under a broiler or salamander, then top with 1 sunny-side-up egg. Croque Provengal: Add 2 tablespoons chopped roasted tomato to the sandwich fillings.

Croque Norwegian: Substitute cold smoked salmon for the ham.

9.16 CLASSIC AMERICAN HAMBURGER YIELD: 10 sandwiches

/

4 lb. ground beef, at least 81% lean, formed into 6-ounce patties

1. Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 10 leaf lettuce leaves

2.

20 large tomato slices, salted

10 slices red onion

é

é

;

Season the burgers with salt and pepper and then place on the grill.Grill the burgers until pools of moisture are visible on the top Side. Flip once and finish grilling. Time will vary by doneness and by grill performance.

3. While the burgers are cooking, assemble the lettuce, tomato, and

10 kaiser rolls, sliced in half, buttered, and grilled

onion for garnish and place on plates large enough to hold each sandwich and its garnishes. 4.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: kaiser roll bottom, burger, kaiser roll top.

5.

Place on the garnished plate and serve with pommes frites and a pickle spear.

9.17 SANTA BARBARA CHICKEN SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

1c. flour

1. Combine the flour and white pepper in a 2-inch-deep half-size hotel pan and mix well. Dredge the chicken breasts in the mixture.

1 Tbsp. white pepper 10 chicken breasts (6 ounces each, deboned Clarified butter

2 inches thick), skin removed,

2.

Sauté the chicken breasts in the clarified butter for 3 minutes per side over medium heat.

3.

Combine the avocados, mayonnaise, chives, tarragon, and mustard

in a bowl. Mix well. Spread the avocado sauce on the toasted side of Hieliciecmrole.

5 avocados, peeled, seeds removed, and diced A ’ se 1/2 c. mayonnaise

4.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: kaiser roll bottom, chicken,

1/2 c. fresh chives, chopped

lettuce leaf, tomato slice, 2 pancetta slices, kaiser roll top. Secure

1/2 c. fresh tarragon, chopped

with toothpicks.

1/4 c. Dijon mustard

10 kaiser rolls, split and toasted

5.

Slice the sandwiches in half and serve with pasta salad and pickled

Pela Ste

10 Bibb lettuce leaves 20 large tomate slices, salted 20 pancetta slices, slightly crisp

Sandwiches

107

5.18 TUNA MELT SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

21/2 Ib. solid white albacore tuna, drained and mashed

Preheat a griddle to medium heat.

11/2 c. mayonnaise

Combine the tuna, mayonnaise, celery, scallions, mustard, lemon juice, and parsley in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 30 minutes.

1c. celery, minced 1c. scallions, white part only, minced

1/2 c. mustard 1/2 c. fresh lemon juice 1/2 c. fresh parsley, chopped 20 slices bread, buttered on one side

20 slices Swiss cheese

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, cheese slice, tuna salad, cheese slice, bread.

Grill until the first side is golden brown. Turn carefully and grill until the second side is golden brown. Slice the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve with bistro chips, fruit garnish, and a garlic pickle spear.

5.19 REUBEN SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

20 slices rye bread, buttered on one side

Preheat a griddle to medium heat.

11/2 Ib. Swiss cheese, thinly sliced

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, cheese, Russian dressing, thin layer of corned beef, sauerkraut, thin layer of corned

2 c. Russian dressing

21/2 Ib. corned beef, precooked, thinly sliced 5 c. sauerkraut

beef, Russian dressing, cheese, bread. Grill until the first side is golden brown. Turn carefully and grill until the second side is golden brown. Finish in a moderate oven if needed. Slice the sandwiches and serve with bistro-style chips, Carrot raisin salad, and a garlic pickle spear.

5.20 GRILLED CUBANO SANDWICH WIELD: 4 servings

1/3 c. olive oil 6 garlic cloves, crushed

1/3 c. fresh orange juice 1/3 c. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. ground cumin 4 6-0z pork medallions, trimmed, pounded flat

To make the mojo-style marinade, combine the olive oil, garlic, orange juice, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and cumin in a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Add the pork loin to the marinade. Marinate in the cooler for 1 hour.

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat. Remove the pork loin from the marinade and pat dry. Spread out each piece of pork like an open book on a board and layer ham, pickle, and cheese on half of each piece. Fold the empty half over the fillings and press to flatten.

3/4 |b. baked ham, thinly sliced

Grill for 4 to 5 minutes per side, or until the interior has heated

8 thin dill pickle slices

through enough to melt the cheese. Remove from the grill.

3/4 |b. Swiss cheese, thinly sliced

Spread a thin layer of mustard on the top and bottom halves of the bread.

4 ciabatta rolls (Italian or French bread can be used), sliced in half

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bottom half, sandwich filling, top half.

4 Tbsp. mayonnaise 4 Tbsp. prepared yellow mustard

108

Chapter 5

Slice the sandwiches in half on the diagonal and serve with seasoned potato chips and a side salad.

9.21 CHICKEN QUESADILLA YIELD: 10 sandwiches

/

5 Ib. tomatoes, peeled, seeded, roasted, and chopped 5 poblano peppers, seeded, roasted, and chopped

1. Combine the roasted tomatoes, roasted peppers, garlic, cilantro, and vinegar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse a few times to form a coarse purée. Transfer the salsa to a nonreactive bowl and hold at

12 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

3 c. fresh cilantro, iy chopped 5 Tbsp. sherry vinegar ; :

Preheat a grill to medium heat.

Place the tortillas on a work surface and top with the chicken, Jack

10 flour tortillas (12 inches)

cheese, Manchego-style cheese, onion julienne, pepper julienne,

21/2 Ib. grilled chicken breast, medium dice 1/2 Ib. Monterey Jack cheese

scallions, and chopped tomatoes. 4.

1/2 Ib. Manchego-style cheese

Place each tortilla on the grill until the cheese has melted and secured some of the ingredients. Fold the tortillas in half and grill for

: : -— 1 white onion, short julienne ie

3 poblano peppers, short julienne

5.

2 minutes on each side. : |

Cut the tortillas in half and serve with the roasted tomato-poblano salsa.

1 bunch scallions, short julienne 21/2 c. tomatoes, seeded and chopped

ee fil CAA AgigLL. 5.22 CLASSIC CLUB SANDWICH YIELD:

10 sandwiches

2 c. mayonnaise

1. Spread mayonnaise on each slice of bread.

30 slices white bread, toasted 20 leaves green leaf lettuce 1Y/> Ib. turk toler

2.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, lettuce leaf, turkey, ham, bread (with 1 tablespoon mayonnaise spread on the second side), lettuce leaf, 2 tomato slices, 2 bacon slices, bread. Secure with toothpicks.

3.

Slice the sandwiches twice on the diagonal to make four triangles and

abl

art

Lead a

1

11/2 Ib. ham, shaved

20 large tomato slices, salted

oon

serve with kettle chips, a side salad, and a pickle spear.

20 slices bacon, slightly crisp

Sandwiches

109

5.23 BARBECUED PORK PAILLARD WITH CABBAGE SLAW AND CORN SALAD YIELD: 10 sandwiches

5 pork tenderloins, peeled, sliced, planked, pounded, seasoned

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

5 c. barbecue sauce

Marinate the pork with half of the barbecue sauce for at least 30 minutes. Grill the pork for 3 to 4 minutes per side, basting with the remaining barbecue sauce every couple of minutes. Remove from the grill and slice.

3 Ib. green cabbage, chiffonade 1 Ib. red cabbage, chiffonade

1 c. mayonnaise 1 c. cider vinegar

Combine the green cabbage, red cabbage, mayonnaise, cider vinegar, salt, pepper, and sugar in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Allow the flavors

1 Tbsp. salt

to mature for at least 30 minutes.

11/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine the corn, jalapefos, chives, shallots, red pepper flakes, canola oil, and vinegar in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Allow the flavors to mature for at least 30 minutes.

1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 3 c. corn kernels, blanched and shocked

3 small jalapeno peppers, seeded, deveined, and chopped

Assemble the sandwiches in the following order: bread, grilled pork,

1c. fresh chives, chopped

cole slaw, cheese.

3 small shallots, minced

Place the sandwiches under a broiler to melt and brown the cheese.

2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Remove from the broiler.

1/2 c. canola oil

Top the sandwiches with the corn salad and chive batons and serve with kettle chips and bread-and-butter pickles.

4 fl. oz. cider vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 10 large slices sourdough bread, toasted 1 Ib. Monterey Jack cheese, grated 1/2 c. fresh chives, 1-inch batonnet

3.24 OPEN-FACED GRILLED PORTABELLA SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

5 c. fresh basil leaves

Combine the basil, vinegar, and olive oil in the container of a blender.

1c. balsamic vinegar

Puree for 30 seconds until the liquid is homogenous and smooth. Strain the vinaigrette through a fine chinois into a squeeze-style bottle.

21/2 c. extra virgin olive oil 10 slices crusty artisan-style bread, 1/2 inch thick, grilled 20 portabella mushrooms, and sliced

stems removed, brushed clean, grilled,

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, mushroom onion, mozzarella.

slice,

20 slices red onion, grilled and chopped

Place the sandwiches under a broiler until the mozzarella is golden brown and crisp. Remove from the broiler.

11/2 Ib. mozzarella, grated

Drizzle with herb vinaigrette and garnish with the toasted pine nuts.

1 c. pine nuts, toasted

110

Chapter 5

9.25 BAGUETTE PANINI WITH PROSCIUTTO AND FRESH BUFFALO MOZZARELLA YIELD: 10 sandwiches

2 baguettes, at least 20 inches long

1. Preheat a grill to medium-low heat.

3 Tbsp. shallots, minced

2.

1/2 c. fresh chives, chopped

3.

11/2 Ib. prosciutto, shaved 11/2 lb. fresh mozzarella cheese Salt and freshl

Festily ground black pepper, to taste

Divide each baguette into five 4-inch pieces and cut each piece in

half to form a top and bottom piece.

1/4 ib. butter, room temperature

Combine the shallots, butter, and chives in a bowl and mix well.

Spread over the cut sides of the baguettes. 4.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: baguette, prosciutto, mozzarella, salt and pepper, baguette.

5.

Place the sandwiches on the grill, presentation side down, and place a weighted hotel pan on top. Grill for 3 minutes on each side.

6.

Serve with a side salad and marinated olives.

9.26 ROASTED-VEGETABLE PITA YIELD: 10 sandwiches

1 lb. carrots, julienne

1.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

1 Ib. eggplant, julienne

2.

Combine the carrots, eggplant, onions, leeks, squash, mushrooms, and thyme in a large bowl. Toss with just enough olive oil to lightly coat the vegetables and season with salt and pepper.

1 Ib. red onions, julienne

1 Ib. leeks, julienne

3.

1 Ib. summer squash, julienne

1 Ib. shiitake mushrooms, julienne

4 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped Extra

Place the vegetables on a sheet tray in a single layer. Roast in the oven until nicely caramelized and tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove

from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

4. Assemble the sandwiches by stuffing the pitas with the frisée, chévre,

virgin olive oil

and

roasted

vegetables.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

10 pita breads, lightly toasted, tops trimmed and opened for stuffing 5 c. frisée 1 Ib. chévre

5.27 WATERCRESS AND CUMIN BUTTER TEA SANDWICH YIELD: 10 sandwiches

1/4 Ib. unsalted butter, room temperature plese

:

atiesip

1.

arsley, minced y

1 Tbsp. cumin seeds, toasted and finely ground

Spread a thin layer of the butter mixture on each slice of bread.

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste i

read, 1/4 inch thick

elke V2 bunch watercress leaves, stems removed

Combine the butter, parsley, cumin, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the butter mixture until hte it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl.

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, watercress, bread.

.

.

Place the sandwiches on a cutting board and remove the crust from all four sides. Slice each sandwich into two rectangular pieces,

approximately 1 inch by 2 inches each.

Sandwiches

111

5.28 SALAMI, RED PEPPER CREAM CHEESE, AND GRILLED-SCALLION CANAPES YIELD: 16 canapés

1.

1/2 c. cream cheese, room temperature

per in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the cream cheese mixture until it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl.

1 Tbsp. fresh sage, grilled, chilled, and minced

1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes oat ireOUR

OS

Combine the cream cheese, sage, red pepper flakes, salt, and pep-

piacr Beppe liatast¢

2.

8 slices sourdough-style bread, 1/4 inch thick

Spread a thin layer of the cream cheese mixture on each slice of

bread. 3. Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, 2 salami slices, scallions, bread.

8 thin slices Genoa salami 4 scallions, grilled, chilled, and finely chopped

4.

Place the sandwiches on a cutting board and remove the crust from all four sides. Slice each sandwich into four squares.

5.29 VIDALIA, CHERVIL, AND BUTTER CANAPES YIELD: 16 canapés

8 slices white Pullman loaf, 1/4 inch thick 1/2 c. unsalted butter, room temperature :

1.

F

4 Tbsp. fresh chervil, minced

ie ee ee / E Spread a thin layer of the butter mixture on each slice of bread.

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste :

are

Combine the butter, chervil, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the butter mixture until it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl.

:

;

Assemble the sandwiches in this order: bread, onion, bread.

8 slices Vidalia onion

Place the sandwiches on a cutting board and remove the crust from all four sides. Slice each sandwich twice on the diagonal to make four triangles.

9.30 TOASTED-WALNUT, GARDEN CRESS, AND DIJON CANAPES VATEILDe 16 canapés

1/2 c. unsalted butter, room temperature 2 Tbsp. walnut pieces, toasted and finely chopped ifign. Gey Kosh Gone

Uso

It

lanai

and freshl tre

sly ground) black peppel, to.taste

16 slices German-style pumpernickel bread, 1/4 inch thick and 2 inches square

112

Chapter 5

Combine the butter, chopped walnuts, honey, salt, and pepper in the bow! of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the butter Se it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down

2.

Spread a thin layer of the butter mixture on each slice of bread. Use

.

a circle cutter to cut each slice of bread into a perfect circle, removing the crust.

1/2 bunch garden cress leaves, stems removed 16 walnut halves, toasted

1.

3. Assemble the canapés in this order: bread, a few garden cress .

leaves, walnut half. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

9.31 SMOKED TROUT, HORSERADISH CHERVIL, AND CUCUMBER CANAPES

BUTTER,

YIELD: 16 canapés

1/2 c. butter, room temperature

Combine the butter, horseradish, chervil, onion juice, lemon juice,

4 Tbsp. horseradish, freshly grated

salt, and pepper in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the butter mixture until it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl.

1 Tbsp. fresh chervil, minced

1 tsp. White onion juice, formed by grating an onion and reserving the liquid 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 16 slices Pullman loaf, 1/4 inch thick 16 slices English cucumber, 1/s inch thick 1 c. smoked trout, deboned, shredded

16 chervil leaf clusters

Spread a thin layer of the butter mixture on each slice of bread. Use a circle cutter (the same diameter as the cucumber slices) to cut each slice of bread into a perfect circle, removing the crust. Place a cucumber slice on each bread circle. Using the remaining butter mixture, pipe a small crown around each cucumber slice.

Assemble the canapés by placing a bit of the smoked trout in the center of the crown and top with a cluster of chervil leaf. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

5.32 ANCHOVY, TOMATO, AND CAPER CANAPES YIELD: 16 canapés

1/2 c. butter, room temperature

4 Tbsp. anchovy paste

1 Tbsp. fresh basil, minced 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground bJack pepper, to taste

16 slices sourdough-style Pullman loaf, 1/4 inch thick 16 thin slices Roma tomato, salted

4 Tbsp. capers, sautéed until crisp

Combine the butter, anchovy paste, minced basil, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Work the butter mixture until it is light and fluffy, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl. Spread a thin layer of the butter mixture on each slice of bread. Use a circle cutter to cut each slice of bread into a perfect circle, removing the crust. Assemble the canapés in the following order: bread, tomato slice, capers, basil chiffonade. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

1/2 c. fresh basil, chiffonade

Sandwiches

113

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

Sandwiches come in all forms, shapes, and sizes; however, most sandwiches can be classified into some basic categories: hot sandwiches, cold sandwiches, stacked sandwiches, open-

faced sandwiches, finger and tea sandwiches, canapés, and variety and specialty sandwiches. Sandwiches are a good way for chefs to create a unique Culinary signature, using special

in-house preparations of common

ingredients and different texture and flavor combinations.

The goal is to promote the operation and the chef through the authenticity and appeal of the menu. Sandwiches are virtually infinite in their ingredients and offer great value to both the

chef and the guest.

cc eo _ ot op

1.

2.

What

is the

difference

closed sandwich

between

3.

a basic

hot

and a basic cold open-faced

What is the function of a spread on a sandwich?

Se DISCUSSION

Chapter 5

Identify and describe three forms of bread commonly used for sandwiches.

sandwich?

= N aa —_

114

4.

in proper sandwich station setup?

Z.

2 —

What is the importance of efficiency and sanitation

5.

What is the importance of good presentation for sandwiches and why?

i

~~

PREVENTING FOOD SPOILAGE BY PRESERVING Preventing spoilage in food can be accomplished through a variety of means, all of which focus on either altering the physical environment or diminishing the nutritional elements that promote the growth of food-borne microbes. The following means are used to preserve food: Salt curing

Smoking Dehydration Fat Pickling

Sete Alcohol Preservation of food depends on the ability to control the environment and food supply available to agents of food-borne contamination. Food-borne microbes thrive in environments that are warm, moist, and alkaline. Furthermore, food-borne microbes flourish when there are

high levels of sugar, carbohydrates, and protein.

PRESERVATION INGREDIENTS Regardless of the means of preservation, some common

ingredients play important roles in

preservation: salt, curing agents, sugars and sweeteners, and spices and seasonings.

Salt Since the beginning of time, salt has played a pivotal and vital role in the existence of humankind. Salt is a nutrient essential to life and has been treated as wealth and money, food,

and, in some instances, a religious symbol. Salt has many different effects on foods.

In the preservation of food, salt promotes

osmosis, which stimulates dehydration, encourages the physical denaturing of proteins, and alters the textures of fermented meats.

r

Kinde ing

Kinders Dorling © Murray David

Salts of Various Types: Kosher, TCM,

Sea Salt, Popcorn

118

Chapter 6

Sugar of Various Types

Vinegars: Distilled, Malt, Cider, and Rice

Dorling © Kinders! g

Dave King

Assorted Spices

Assorted

Fresh

Herbs

Assorted Chilies

All food is composed of various components: water, protein, fiber, starch, fat, carbohydrate, and so on. When salt comes into contact with food, it draws out the moisture, or free

water, from the food. This process is known as osmosis, which helps create equilibrium. Salted food gives off its free water in an effort to dissolve the salt on the outside of the meat; once the water collects on the outside of the food, the food draws the water, which contains the dissolved

salt, back into the food, creating an inhospitable environment

now for

microbes.

Whatever salt is used, be sure to measure it by weight and weight alone. Different salts have crystals of different shapes and sizes, resulting in inaccurate volume measurement.

Curing Agents Curing agents enhance color and also guard against the growth of certain harmful microbes during long curing, drying, and fermenting processes that are commonly

used to preserve

meats, fish, and other foods.

Historically, saltpeter was used as the primary commercial curing agent; however, the use

of saltpeter has been banned for use in commercially processed foods. Modern garde mangers

therefore rely on premixed curing mixtures that contain nitrites and nitrates. Insta Cure No.1 and Insta Cure No. 2 are examples of mixtures designed to hinder the growth of botulinum mi-

crobes. These mixtures are composed of purified salt, nitrites or nitrates, and pink coloring (making them readily distinguishable from ordinary seasoning salts). Insta Cure No. 1 is used for smoked and cured foods (fish, meat, chicken game, etc.) that

require further cooking, processing, or canning before service and consumption.

Insta Cure

No. 1 contains sodium nitrates, which are fast-dissipating compounds that retard the growth

of harmful microbes within the food. Insta Cure No. 2 is used for dry cured meats and sausages that do not require further cooking, processing, or canning before service and consumption.

Insta Cure No. 2 contains sodium nitrites, which take longer to break down and dissipate than sodium nitrates do. Because some curing times are as long as a year, it is important to ensure the hindrance of harmful microbe growth.

Nitrosamines and Curing Significant evidence shows that certain carcinogens

known

as_ nitrosamines can form

when nitrites and nitrates are exposed to high levels of intense heat. Because many preserved and cured foods are later finished for service via high levels of direct heat, chefs must understand that customers

may be concerned

about the risks associated with the Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

119

formation of nitrosamines. However, the risks are clearly mitigated when the benefits of nitrate and nitrite use are used in comparative models to the health and well being of the general public.

Sugar and Sweeteners The role of sugars and sweeteners in preserved foods is crucial for counteracting the harsh flavors of the salt and to promote fermentation during the curing and drying process. Sugars and sweeteners commonly used in the preservation of food include cane sugar, brown sugar, molasses, maple syrup, honey, sweet liquors and fortified wines, powdered dextrose, and corn syrup solids. Common kitchen sugars can be used to balance the effects of salt for

many preserved foods that undergo brief curing, drying, or smoking processes. For many dry-

cured or fermented foods, powdered dextrose and corn syrup solids are essential to balance the flavors in the finished product. Powdered dextrose is only 70 percent as sweet as table cane sugar, and it also provides nutrients for the lactic acid-consuming organisms that offer the characteristic tang of good dry-cured and fermented foods. Corn syrup solids also enhance flavor and fermentation, but mostly they help many dry-cured foods retain their natural color and appearance.

Spices and Seasonings Spices and seasonings are the ingredients that distinguish one product from another. Foodprocessing techniques may be similar, but the regional and traditional influences of flavor and

ingredient availability can differentiate products dramatically. Spices and seasonings are es-

sential tools in garde manger because they allow the chef to express the style, regional characteristics, and heritage or direction of a cuisine. As the global influences of cultures, flavors, and ingredients continue to grow, so do the possibilities for creating new and unique foods from

the root techniques of preservation. Spices and seasonings provide flavor, balance, uniqueness, and vibrancy in modern preserved foods.

SALT CURING Salt curing can be accomplished either by applying a dry cure (rub) to the food’s exterior surface or by introducing the food into a wet cure (brine). Both methods have the common goal of introducing salt into the physical structure of the food, removing a portion of the free water that is naturally present and contributing to the flavor of the food. Dry cures can be as simple as salt applied to the exterior of food, triggering osmosis that introduces the salt into the physical structure of the food and removes its free water. More commonly, however, dry rubs are composed of a mixture of salt, a curing agent (when needed),

sugar, and seasonings. Within a dry cure the salts and, when required, curing agents function as the cure, with the sugars and seasonings offsetting the harsh flavor of the salt, thereby promoting balanced flavor and character.

Dry cures are used in two ways: as a quick curing agent or in a long curing process. It is critical to understand the use of both applications. When a dry cure is used as a quick cure, foods that are less than 11/2 inches thick (boneless fillets of fish, breasts of fowl or poultry, shellfish, etc.) should be used. When acting as a long curing agent, dry cures can be used on larger, thicker foods (large boneless and bone-in cuts of pork, beef, and game).

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STEP BY STEP | DRY CURING (RUBS) Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools. Prepare the Curing mixture according to the recipe

(if using nitrite or nitrate ingredients, be sure to accurately calculate weight-to-

curing-mix ratios).

food with a generous amount of curing mix, rubbing it into the food item if possible.

4 |Larger food items may need repeated applications of curing mix; be sure to save some of the original curing mix if using nitrite or nitrate ingredients.

Either wrap the food in cheesecloth or butcher paper or, if many pieces are being done at once, pack the food into bins with the curing mix separating the pieces of food. (Whatever method is used, be sure to set the food inside a solid hotel pan to catch the moisture given off during the curing process.)

Wet cures or brines can be simply salt dissolved into a liquid, or they can be a mixture of

salt, a curing agent (when needed), sugar, and seasonings. When the food product is introduced to the brine, the result is the same as with a dry cure: the onset of osmosis, which in-

troduces the salt into the food and removes Its free water. Wet cures are commonly used in commercial operations because of the efficient rate of cure penetration and the higher yield of usable product.

Alternatively, wet cures can be injected directly into the food at various points. Brining can

be done in isolation, but more often it is used in tandem with an injection of the brine directly into the food. When both methods are used, 10 percent of the food’s weight or volume can be injected. Injection usually occurs at sites where penetration of the brine is less efficient, such as joints and the deeper parts of muscles.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

121

OINTS FOR TURKEY AND HAM Hi

Types of Injectors

STEP

BY By SiEr SIEF

WET CURING (BRINES)

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools. Prepare the brine mixture according to the recipe (if using nitrite or nitrate ingredients, be sure to accurately calculate weight-to-curing-mix ratios). Chill the brine to below 40°F before use.

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Place the food item in the brine mixture and top with weight to ensure complete

Remove the food from the brine and pat it dry or allow it to air-dry to form a pellicle,

submersion in the brine. Allow the food to brine for the appropriate length of time.

or a tacky exterior, then finish cooking as required or store for use at a later time.

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Note: When brining a large joint muscle or piece of meat, it is recommended to inject the food with 10 percent of the food’s weight in brine and then submerge it for the balance of the curing time.

Flavor brines are increasing in popularity in commercial kitchens. A flavor brine is used

to physically denature the structure of a food product, but does not introduce enough curing properties to preserve it. Flavor brines are quick-acting and allow the introduction of salt, sugar, and seasonings to a food product in less than 1 hour. As with dry cures, flavor brines should be used with smaller, quicker-cooking foods with minimal thickness. 122

Chapter 6

STEP

BY BY STEP STEP |

iiiitaniicatinmaitiemiccasiat

FLAVOR BRINING (BRINE SOAKING)

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools. Prepare the flavor brine according to the recipe.

Place the food item in the flavor brine mixture

Remove the food from the flavor brine and

and top with weight to ensure complete Submersion in the brine. Allow the food to brine for the appropriate length of time.

pat it dry with towels or allow it to air-dry to form a pellicle, then finish cooking as required.

SMOKING Smoking has origins dating back thousands of years. Common theory suggests that primitive

humans protected their foods from predators by hanging them close to fire and then discovered that the smoke had various preservation qualities. Smoked foods are more dense, have higher flavor concentrations, and are less likely to spoil. Garde manger chefs can play with the

flavors of smoked foods by using various flavors of curing brines or rubs and by altering the type of wood used and length of time in contact with smoke. Smoking as a means of preservation is actually a combination of curing and dehydration

techniques. The cure is needed for two reasons. Because smoked food must be processed In an anaerobic environment for significant periods of time, the possibility of food-borne contamination is increased. The food will be exposed to the danger zone for an extended period

of time and the removal of free moisture from the food by osmosis and evaporation occurs very slowly to control the denaturing of the food. During this process, anaerobic bacteria are of paramount concern.

After the cure is taken by the food, the food must be dehydrated slightly and a pellicle, or tacky exterior, must form on the food so the smoke can stick. If the food is smoked

while it is wet the smoke will run off with the exterior moisture, promoting a weak flavor profile. During the smoking process, evaporation is taking place while the food is in contact with

the smoke. Smoke is composed of hundreds of chemical compounds that hinder the growth of harmful microbes by preventing the fat from oxidizing and turning rancid. For commercial purposes, two distinct styles of smoking are used to preserve foods: cold

smoking and hot smoking. Cold smoking fully preserves the food, whereas hot smoking only partially preserves the food and therefore only extends its shelf life for up to about a week. Cold smoking exposes food to smoke molecules from an indirect heat source, with the temperature of the smoke between 35°F and 90°F. The longer the food is in contact with the smoke, the longer its shelf life. Cold-smoked foods have a shelf life of up to 3 years when prop-

erly stored after smoking. Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

123

FIGURE 6.3 COLD SMOKER WITH EXTERNAL HEAT

AND SMOKE SOURCES

124

Chapter 6

STEP

BY BY So STEP EF |

Ep eR

COLD SMOKING

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Apply either a dry cure or a wet cure according to the instructions.

Remove the food from the curing process and pat it dry with towels, then allow it to air-dry and form a pellicle.

Place the food in the smoker at the desired temperature (below 90°F) and smoke it for an appropriate length of time that is associated with the product, flavor profile, and type of food being smoked. Remove the food from the smoker and allow 4tto cool thoroughly before service.

Hot smoking exposes food to smoke in the presence of direct or indirect heat, with the

temperature of the smoke between 160°F and 180°F. Because the food is in the presence of heat that is sufficient to denature most proteins, the food is actually cooking. Because the food is exposed to heat and smoke for a limited time, hot-smoked foods must be either

consumed within 7 to 10 days of being smoked or frozen until needed at a later date. The steps for smoking are as follows:

1.

Cure application

2.

Pellicle formation

3.

Smoking process

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

125

STEP

BY BY SiEr STEP |

HOT SMOKING

Apply either a dry cure or a wet cure according to the instructions.

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Place the food in the smoker at the desired temperature (160°F to 180°F) and smoke it for an appropriate length of time that is associated with the product, flavor profile, and type of food being smoked. (SSS

126

Chapter 6

SS SOS

RET

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Remove the food from the smoker and allow it to cool thoroughly before service.

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ISTEP BY STEP SMOKE ROASTING (BARBECUE) Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools, then apply either a dry cure or a wet cure according to the instructions. Prepare the smoke roaster or barbecue pit by placing soaked wood chips next to a heat source so they will begin to smolder and smoke.

2] Remove the food from the curing process and pat it dry with towels, then allow it to air-dry and form a pellicle.

4 |Place the food in the smoke roaster or barbecue pit at the desired temperature (250°F to 300°F) and smoke for an appropriate length of time.

5 |Remove the food from the smoke roaster or barbecue pit and serve.

PRESERVING WITH FAT Preserving with fat is a traditional method of food preservation. Oxidation, one of the primary causes of food spoilage, is deterred by the presence of fat. Preserving with fat is based on in-

troducing fat into the food and covering the food with fat. The two techniques of preserving with fat are the confit technique and the rillette technique.

The confit technique is a combination of a traditional dry salt cure, cooking the food slowly in a fat, and storing the food completely submerged in the cooking fat in a cool environment. The top covering of fat acts as a barrier, thereby extending the shelf life of confits to well over 3 months.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

127

MAKING

CONFIT

ndersley

Kindersley orling

O'Leary lan © K Dorling

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools. Rub the food with the cure mixture and place it in the cooler

Remove the food from the cooler and rinse away any cure mixture remaining on the exterior of the food. Pat the food dry with towels.

In a nonreactive pot large enough to hold the food, bring an appropriate amount of rendered fat and water to a simmer and add the food to the pot.

in a nonreactive storage container,

weighted and covered, for 48 to 72 hours.

Q Simmer until the food is very tender

5 |Allow the food to cool in the fat to room

when tested with a fork.

temperature. Place the food in the cooler and store until Service.

Note: At storage time, make sure the fat covers the confit completely; if needed, top off with more of the rendered fat used for cooking.

The rillette technique is based on cooking food in a flavored fat-liquid mixture for

a long period of time, slowly and efficiently denaturing the food so the protein is more easily broken down cooked,

it is broken

into smaller, even individual bundles. Once the food is sufficiently down,

mixed

with some

of the fat from

placed in containers to cool. The top of the mixture

the cooking

is then covered

liquid, and

with more

of the

cooking fat and the food is placed in the cooler until service. The fat seal also acts as a

barrier against oxygen and aerobic microbes, extending the food’s shelf life to as long as 3 months.

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STEP

BY BY STEP STEP

MAKING RILLETTE 2 |Combine the food, aromatics, spices,

and stock in a nonreactive pot. Set over moderate heat and bring to a moderate simmer (around 180°F) or place in a 300°F oven in a covered casserole.

Mise en place all ingredients according to the recipe and gather any necessary equipment, plates, and tools.

Continue to cook the food until it is

4 |Remove the food from the pot and

very tender.

allow it to cool briefly.

While the food is cooling, skim off the fat (if making a meat rillette) from the liquid; strain the remaining liquid and reserve.

Separate the meat in one of two ways: either place the food in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and slowly break down the food into very small pieces, or shred the food by hand using two forks to pull it apart.

Check the texture; if needed, add some of the reserved fat (if making a meat rillette) and cooking liquid to the food mixture. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.

Place the food in an appropriate storage container large enough to hold the entire batch, or portion it into individual porcelain ramekins. Cover the food with the reserved cooking fat and hold in the cooler until service. The finished presentation is shown here.

Note: At storage time, make sure the fat covers the rillette mixture completely; if needed, top it with more of the rendered fat used for cooking.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

129

PRESERVING BY DEHYDRATION Dehydration is one of the oldest forms of preservation known to humankind. For thousands of years, foods have been dried in the presence of sunlight and wind. Most fruits and vegetables, as well as certain proteins, are well suited for preservation by dehydration.

Dehydration can be done outside in the open air or inside, either in an oven or in food dehydrators. When dehydrating outside in the open air, the food must be covered with some form of screen to prevent contamination from insects and birds. The barrier used should

never

come into contact with the food itself. Commercial dehydrators allow a great deal of control in the rate of moisture evaporation by having exact temperature and humidity settings, thereby giving the garde manger chef the ability to consistently reproduce dehydrated foods.

A cuisine style known as raw food is based on using dehydration to simulate the cooking or baking process, producing breads, crackers, and even “roasted” foods similar to those produced by traditional cookery methods. Commercial convection or combi ovens can hold pre-

cise temperatures as low as 90°F for long periods of time. Contemporary methods of protein dehydration are based on a quick salt-curing process (used to hinder the growth of harmful surface microbes) and then a dehydration process in which 75 to 80 percent of the food’s moisture is removed, as well as almost 70 percent of its weight. Fruits and vegetables are often soaked in an acid-water or sugar-water solution for a brief period of time to minimize the discoloration that results from the oxidation of the food. Fruits and vegetables that are naturally soft or very high in moisture content are not well suited for drying. Most fruits that have firm textures and moderate sugar content and resist oxidation are

well suited for drying. Dehydrated foods can be a significant flavor source when rehydrated in warm stock or wa-

ter. The rehydrating liquid is infused with the food's flavor, much like a tea, producing a concentrated, flavorful liquid that can become the base for a soup, gelée, or sauce.

STEP

BY BY STEP o'er

DEHYDRATING FOODS (DRYING) Prepare the food for drying according to the recipe, being sure to remove excess fat, bruised flesh, and protective skins and rinds.

2 |If required, salt-cure or brine proteins or soak fruits in solution for 30 to 60 minutes. Remove the food from the cure, brine, or solution. Rinse the food if needed and pat it dry with towels.

& &

Place the food on racks with sufficient room for air circulation.

5 |Store the food in an airtight container until service.

Dehydrate until 75 to 80 percent of the food’s moisture and 70 percent of its weight is removed.

eee 130

Chapter 6

ISTEP

BY BY SltEP STEP

REHYDRATING FOODS (RECONSTITUTING) Place the dried food in a nonreactive

80

mixing bowl large enough to cover the food

8

with 1 inch of liquid.

a

Measure enough liquid to cover the food by 1 inch into a nonreactive pot. Bring the liquid to a boil and pour it over the food.

Allow the food to steep until it is soft, pliable, and tender. Strain the food or remove it from the liquid, reserving the liquid for other uses.

PRESERVING BY PICKLING Pickling is a preservation technique suited for firm-fleshed fruits and vegetables, and even meats in certain cases (for example, pickled pork used to make tasso and many great American sausages). Pickling uses the effects of salt, sugar, and acid (vinegar) on food to hinder the reproduction of microbes by making the environment inhospitable to them. Salt is the principal ingredient for pickling; it creates an environment that prohibits the growth of microbes, slows the enzymatic breakdown of foods, and promotes osmosis.

The preserving liquid need only be a mixture of salt and water; however, because of the harsh flavor of using salt alone, the liquid is often a mixture of salt, water, seasonings, spices,

and sometimes vinegar and/or sugar. The ratio of salt to water depends on the texture of the

fruit or vegetable, the desired texture of the finished pickled item, and the use of vinegar and/or sugar in the recipe. Vinegar and sugar are used when the flavor desired is more of a sweetand-sour effect; sweet pickles and hot dog relish are good examples of this. In addition to bal-

ancing and creating flavor contrasts, vinegar and sugar help physically denature a food, and the resulting pickled item is generally softer in texture.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

131

PICKLING

FOOD

Kindersley

Dorling ©

Dorling © Kindersle

Mise en place all ingredients and equipment, being sure to properly sanitize the storage containers.

oe Combine the ingredients for the liquid mixture in a nonreactive bowl. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and add the food to be pickled. Be sure to cover the food completely with the liquid mixture by at least 1 inch. Use a porcelain plate or nonreactive wire rack as a weight, if needed.

Store in a cool, dark place for at least 2 weeks, depending on the size of the food and the acidity level of the mixture.

Note: For pickled food that is to be stored for a length of time, it is recommended to process the foods in hermetically sealed containers to prevent contamination.

PRESERVING FRUIT WITH ALCOHOL Alcohol is a preservation ingredient that allows the garde manger chef to store a season’s har-

vest of fruits, and certain vegetables, for an indefinite length of time. The German rumtopf— large crocks of various cut and trimmed fruits steeping in alcohol—is a classic example. Alcohol preservation relies on the ability to raise acidity to inhospitable levels for microbes. The alcohol used is generally spirits with a minimum

of 40 percent alcohol. Vodka, rum,

brandy, bourbon, Kentucky whiskey, and even nonflavored ethyl alcohol work well, taking on

the flavor of the fruit. Regardless of the alcohol variety used, simple syrup should be used to

prevent shape transformation of the fruit; as in poaching, the density of the liquid helps maintain the fruit’s physical characteristics. Alcohol-preserved foods should be stored in a cool, dark environment and should be allowed to mature for 30 to 60 days or longer, depending on fruit size, before use. One attribute of

alcohol preservation is that foods can be added to existing batches as seasonal harvests allow. The garde manger chef can use alcohol preservation as an invaluable tool in adding unique and appealing flavor, texture, and color balance to many charcuterie preparations. For example, a terrine of rabbit made with a flavor footprint from Southern American cuisine could be enhanced by an accompaniment of Kentucky bourbon apples that have been quickly caramelized in butter, tumtopf and Bourbon 132

Chapter 6

Apple Pot

fresh thyme leaves, and shallots, then deglazed with a ounce or two of the bourbon preserve.

ISTEP BY STEP PRESERVING FRUIT WITH ALCOHOL

Mise en place all ingredients and equipment, being sure to properly sanitize the storage containers.

Sweeten the alcohol by adding the simple syrup to the alcohol and place the mixture in a container suitable for pouring. Place the fruit in the storage container in an orderly and accessible fashion.

Pour the sweetened alcohol over the fruit, making sure that the fruit is covered by at least 1 inch of liquid.

Seal the container airtight and store in a cool, dark environment. Allow the fruit to mature for at least 30 days, even longer for whole fruits.

Note: When fruits begin to lose color and shape, they are displaying signs of fermentation and should be discarded, along with the preservation liquid.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

133

6.1 TARRAGON AND VERMOUTH-CURED

SALMON

YIELD: 16 servings

3 Tbsp. kosher salt

Combine the salt and sugar in a small bowl. Mix well.

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

Combine the lemon zest, vermouth, pepper, and tarragon in another small bowl. Mix well.

2 tsp. lemon zest 3 Tbsp. vermouth 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 c. fresh tarragon leaves, stems removed 2 Ib. salmon fillet, skin on, deboned

Place the salmon fillet on a large sheet of plastic wrap, skin side down. Rub the salmon generously with the salt-sugar mixture. Apply the vermouth-herb mixture to the salmon and wrap it tightly in the plastic wrap. Place the salmon in a pan. Place another pan on top and put at least 3 pounds of weight in the top pan. Chill the salmon for 36 to 48 hours, turning once. When the salmon is fully cured, rewrap it in clean plastic wrap and hold for service. To serve, make long thin slices across the grain.

6.2 CONFIT DE CANARD (DUCK CONFIT) YIELD: About 8 legs

3 Ib. duck legs 4 Tbsp. light brown sugar

1 Tbsp. quatre épices 1 tsp. dried thyme leaves 2 garlic cloves, minced

11/2 oz. kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 qt. duck fat, lard, or other suitable cooking fat 2 c. water

Disjoint the duck legs if using whole birds. Reserve the breast meat, carcass, and offal for other uses. Combine the sugar, quatre épices, thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Mix well. Rub the duck legs liberally with the curing mix. Place the duck legs in a nonreactive pan, cover, and press well with an item of suitable weight. Allow the duck to cure in the cooler overnight.

Rinse the duck legs of any remaining cure and blot dry. Bring the duck fat and water to a simmer in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan; add the duck legs and simmer for 2 hours or until fork-tender.

Allow the confit to cool to room temperature in the duck fat. Hold the confit in the fat in the cooler for up to 6 months, removing pieces as needed.

6.3 CONFIT DE POULET (CHICKEN CONFIT) YIELD: About 8 legs

21/2 to 3 Ib. chicken legs 4 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. quatre épices

1 tsp. dried thyme leaves 2 garlic cloves, minced

11/2 oz. kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 qt. chicken fat, lard, or other suitable cooking fat 2 c. water

Disjoint the chicken legs if using whole birds. Reserve the breast meat, carcass, and offal for other uses. Combine the sugar, quatre épices, thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Mix well. Rub the chicken legs liberally with the curing mix. Place the chicken legs in a nonreactive pan, cover, and press well with an item of suitable weight. Allow the chicken to cure in the cooler overnight.

Rinse the chicken legs of any remaining cure and blot dry. Bring the chicken fat and water to a simmer in a large, heavybottomed saucepan; add the chicken pieces and simmer for 2 hours or until fork-tender.

Allow the confit to cool to room temperature in the chicken fat. Hold the confit in the fat in the cooler for up to 4 weeks, removing pieces as needed.

134

Chapter 6

6.4 BASIC BACON YIELD: 10 Ib.

/

121/4 Ib. kosher salt 83/4 oz. brown sugar 21/2 qt. maple syrup

0.125 oz. Insta Cure No. 1 10 Ib. fresh pork belly, skin on

fo

Combine the salt, sugar, maple syrup, and Insta Cure No.1 in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly.

Rub the cure over the pork, making sure that 100 percent coverage is obtained. Stack the pork in plastic containers or stainless steel tubs, skin side down.

Cure the pork in the cooler for 7 to 10 days, turning every second day during curing.

Rinse the pork under cold water for 1 hour. Hang the pork on hooks and air-dry for 18 hours before smoking. Hot-smoke the pork at 185°F until the internal temperature reaches 150°F. Allow to cool to room temperature.

6.5 ALL-PURPOSE SEAFOOD BRINE YIELD: PAXGit

31/2 oz. kosher salt

I. Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

3 oz. granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. fresh dill, chopped

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 qt. hot water

6.6 GENERIC ALL-PURPOSE BRINE YIELD: 2 gal.

21/2 Ib. kosher salt

1. Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

3 c. honey 2 head garlic, cut in half across the cloves

1 onion

4 Tbsp. pickling spice 4 Tbsp. honey 2 gal. hot water

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

135

6.7 BASIC POULTRY BRINE WIERD: 2 gal.

1.

11/2 Ib. kosher salt

Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

12 oz. honey or granulated or brown sugar 2 oz. fresh sage 1 head garlic 2 gal. hot water

6.8 GAME AND WATERFOWL

BRINE

YIELD: 2 gal.

12 oz. sherry

1.

Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

6 bay leaves 1 oz. fresh thyme leaf 2 tsp. juniper berries 1 oz. fresh sage, minced

2 gal. water

6.9 VERMONT

MAPLE-VANILLA

BRINE

YIELD: 2 gal.

8 vanilla beans, split and scraped, pods smashed with the back of a knife

1.

Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

1.

Mixall ingredients at once and then chill.

1 c. Vermont maple syrup

1/3 c. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 6 c. warm water

6.10 CHIPOTLE-LIME BRINE YIELD: imate

3 chipotle peppers, crushed 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

3 Tbsp. kosher or sea salt 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

Juice of 4 limes 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

6 c. warm water 136

Chapter 6

6.11 HONEY-CHILI

BRINE

YIELD: 2 qt.

/

3/4 c. honey

ihe Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

1 Tbsp. chili powder 1 Tbsp. Tabasco sauce

1/2 c, kosher salt 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 qt. warm water

6.12 APPLE CIDER BRINE YIELD: POs

2 c. fresh apple cider

ile Mix all ingredients at once and then chill.

1/2 c. Vermont maple syrup 1/2 c. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 stick cinnamon 1 piece star anise

2 qt. warm water

6.13 BARBECUE SPICE RUB YIELD: cs

2 Tbsp. paprika 2 Tbsp. chili powder

Ie

Mix all ingredients at once and then store in an airtight container until ready to use.

1 tsp. cayenne pepper 2 Tbsp. garlic powder 2 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. ground cumin

1 Tbsp. mustard powder 1 tsp. rubbed sage

1 tsp. dried oregano 4 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

137

6.14 FRESH HERB CRUST FOR LAMB YIELD: ice

1. Mix all ingredients at once and then store in an airtight container until ready to use.

2 Tbsp. fresh parsley 2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary 2 Tbsp. fresh thyme

2 garlic cloves 3 tsp. kosher salt 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. olive oil

6.15 SOUTHWESTERN

SPICE RUB

YIELD: Ie.

1 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground

1.

Mix all ingredients at once then store in an airtight container until

ready to use.

1 tsp. chili powder 2 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 11/2 tsp. brown sugar

1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper 2 tsp. garlic, finely minced

1 tsp. shallot, finely minced

6.16 BASIC DRY CURE FOR MEAT VATED}: 2 |b.

11/4 Ib. kosher salt

1.

14 oz. granulated sugar

Mixall ingredients at once then store in an airtight container until

ready to use.

4 oz. Insta Cure No. 1

6.17 CURING BRINE FOR MEAT AND FISH YIELD: 1 gal.

1 gal. water

1.

18 oz. kosher salt

Place all of the ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil. Remove

from heat.

8 oz. brown sugar

2.

3 fl. oz. fresh lemon juice

3. Allow the brine to cool. Store properly.

1 tsp. garlic powder

Note: One brine will cure 20 Ib.

1 tsp. onion powder

1 tsp. cayenne pepper 138

Chapter 6

Skim off the foam and discard.

6.18 BASIC HONEY CURE FOR BACON YIELD: Enough for 5 |b. meat

11/4 Ib. kosher salt 7 oz. brown sugar

1.

Mix all ingredients at once then store in an airtight container until ready to use.

2 c. honey 4 oz. Insta Cure No. 1

6.19 PICKLING

BRINE FOR HAMS

NASIEDE 5 gal. Enough for 4 fresh hams

2 Ib. salt

1.

Combine the salt, sugar, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, juniper berries,

1 Ib. brown sugar

Sage, cloves, and peppercorns in the hot water. Stir to allow the salt

. 4 heads garlic, halved

and sugar to dissolve. Chill the mixture to 38°F, then add the Insta Cure No.1.

4 bay leaves 2 oz. thyme

12 juniper berries 2 tsp. fresh sage 6 whole cloves 24 peppercorns

4 gal. hot water

12 oz. Insta Cure No.1

; Re | — rp oa 6.20 GENERIC MEAT BRINE MIEED: Enough for 10 Ib. meat

6 oz. salt

Variations

5'0z., brown sugar

Confit: Add 6 oz. fresh thyme.

5 oz. maple syrup

Brisket: Add 4 tablespoons pickling spice. Brine for 4 days using

8 black peppercorns

injection method.

8 white peppercorns

Bacon: Brine for 3 days with injection.

1 bay leaf, crumbled

Chicken Breasts (skinless, boneless): Brine overnight.

2 oz. thyme, chopped

Duck Breasts (bone-in): Brine for 3 days.

1 oz. Insta Cure No. 1

Tasso Ham: Brine for 3 days.

1. Combine all of the ingredients except the Insta Cure in a nonreactive

Ham: Brine for 6 days with injection.

4.

container. Add just enough hot water to dissolve the salt and sugar.

Bacon/Canadian Bacon: Omit the juniper berries and cloves. Add 6 crushed garlic cloves and brine 3 days with injection.

Chill the brine to 38°F, then add the Insta Cure. Mix until the Insta Gare iadicsohed:

Note: lf you use a brand of nitrites other than Insta Cure, you will need to check the package for the amount used per pound of meat.

Add the brine to the appropriate level of the meat, just so It is covered.

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

139

6.21 PORK RILLETTES A LA FRANCAISE YIELD: Bylb:

1 boneless pork shoulder, 4 to 6 pounds, cut into 2-inch dice

2 qt. water 1 bouquet garni 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

iL, Combine the pork, water, and bouquet garni in a medium nonreactive heavy-bottomed pot. Cook over low heat for 5 hours. Add the salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Discard the bouquet garni. Allow the mixture to cool to slightly above room temperature. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the pot and transfer it to a large mixing bowl. Use two forks to shred the

meat into fine shreds.

Ladle off the fat from the cooking liquid and reserve it. Add back the reserved fat to the shredded meat. Chill and allow to mature for 3 days before service.

6.22 GIN AND TONIC SALMON CURE YIELD: Enough for 1 pound of cured salmon

Salmon fillets, as needed

Weigh the salmon fillets and scale the recipe for every pound of fish.

1 tsp. lime zest

Combine the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well to combine.

1 Tbsp. Tanqueray gin 1 Tbsp. juniper berries, crushed

Rub the cure on the flesh side of the salmon fillets.

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

Place the salmon fillets in vacuum bags and seal.

11/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Allow the salmon to cure for 48 hours.

6.23 TASSO CURE AND SEASONING

MIX

YIELD: Enough for one 5-lb. pork butt shoulder

4 oz. generic meat cure

Apply the generic meat cure to the meat and cure for 3 hours.

1/2 oz. white pepper

Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and mix well.

1/2 oz. dried oregano

Wash the meat, blot dry, and apply the seasoning mix.

1/2 oz. cayenne pepper

Air-dry the meat uncovered in the cooler overnight.

1/2 oz. ground allspice

Hot-smoke the meat until the internal temperature reaches 185°F.

aes Tasso may be wrapped and stored for up to 2 weeks.

140

Chapter 6

6.24 TASSO RUB YIELD: Enough for one 5-lb.pork butt shoulder

1/2 c. paprika

Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Store in an airtight container.

2 Tbsp. cayenne pepper

When using for tasso hams, rub the meat generously on all sides and dry it in front of a fan.

1/2 c. onion powder

4 Tbsp. granulated garlic

When injecting hams, use 3 tablespoons rub for 10 pounds pork and mix in with the brine.

1/2 c. chili powder

6.25 JAMBON

MAISON

VIEED: Enough for 4 hams

1 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1/2 c. salt

Dissolve the sugar, salt, pepper, and sage in the water. Mix well. Chill the brine to 40°F.

2 Tbsp. finely ground black pepper

Submerge the hams in the brine and allow to cure for 5 days.

1 Tbsp. fresh sage, chopped

Preheat oven to 280°F.

8 gal. water, 140°F

Remove the pork from the brine and blot dry. 128) Roast the pork loins until the internal temperature reaches 160°F. ges Cr

4 fresh hams, pelvic bone out, jet netted

Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes or hold at 140°F for later use.

6.26

PICKLED

VEGETABLES

gr

YIELD: 5 gal.

2 gal. water

2 qt. white vinegar 2 c. salt 5 |b. carrots, peeled and crinkle-cut 1/4 inch thick

Combine the water, vinegar, and salt in a large nonreactive stockpot and heat to a simmer. Place the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive container and pour the hot brining liquid over them. Brine 24 to 48 hours.

4 lb. green beans, cut into 2-inch lengths 2 bunches celery, trimmed, washed, and cut into 1-inch sticks

2 heads cauliflower, cut into florets, blanched, shocked, and drained 4 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into wedges

2 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. pickling spice

2 Tbsp. fennel seeds 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled 1 bunch dill

Smoking, Curing, and Preserving

141

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

Food preservation was once essential for human survival. It relies on the techniques and reactions

that occur when foods’ physical properties are altered to deter the harmful effects of microbes.

With the advent of modern refrigeration and systematic safety checks and balances in our food system, preservation and microbes no longer top our list of concerns. However, chefs are increasingly returning to the techniques of preservation in an effort to distinguish themselves from the competition and to offer their clients a variety of textures, flavors, and colors.

Garde manger, literally a mindset of “keeping to eat”, employs the techniques described in this chapter, and fundamental to the operation of the garde manger department should be the goals of

preserving food waste, capturing flavor, and increasing profitability. When chefs preserve foods in the kitchen, they are turning waste into profit, helping to meet the tight budgets that all kitchens face.

ce o~

iV

—

2

How do cures and brines differ?

What

is the difference

between

pickling

and

brining?

Why are brines more efficient and quicker-acting than cures for larger food items?

aie4

8.

9.

What are the four essential steps for smoking?

SP)

ZO

=y=2 —

OA

&

When would a chef choose injection as a means

to quicken brine? Why?

4.

Why are nitrites and nitrates important in preservne ene?

iP

What are nitrosamines? Sugar Is often used in the curing and preserving process, although it is not physically required. What is the rationale for this?

142

Chapter 6

What is a pellicle?

11.

; How do hot smoking and cold smoking differ from smoke roasting?

12.

; Define confit.

Salt has many effects on food; list three of salt’s ef-

fects and the reactions it causes.

.

10.

13.

How

can

understanding

food

preservation

enhance the quality of foods served profitability of a kitchen operation?

and

the

IS AGE? _ SAUS WHAT Sausage is physically denatured meat (ground to expose the surface area to salt and seasonings, and to make the meat easier to consume by shortening the length of the bundles of muscle fiber) mixed with fat, seasonings, and salt to produce a flavorful, savory food preparation.

COMMON TYPES OF SAUSAGES Sausages

generally

can

be

grouped

into

three

categories:

Selection

of Cured

Meats and Sausages

1.

Fresh

2.

Smoked

3.

Cured

Fresh sausage is made from raw meat that has not been cooked or cured. It is then held raw or unprocessed

before final cooking. Some examples of fresh sausages include Italian,

breakfast, merguez, and bratwurst.

Smoked sausage is made with raw meat but must have a curing agent containing either sodium nitrite or sodium nitrate introduced to hinder bacterial growth before and during the smoking process. Cured sausage is made with raw meat that has been treated with a curing agent to hinder bacterial growth before and during the air-drying process.

SAUSAGE COMPONENTS Sausage is composed of some basic components: Dominant meat Fat

Seasonings Curing agents (if curing)

RSF Garnish ingredients Ne Bee CS

Dominant Meat Traditionally sausage was made from pork; however, modern sausages are made from chicken, veal, beef, seafood, shellfish, vegetables, game meats, and so on. The dominant meat contributes the principal flavor, texture, and appearance of the sausage. Pork, the most common protein used in sausage making, is ideally suited for sausage because of its flavor profile, protein structure, fat content, and cost.

Fat Classically hard pork fatback, in a ratio of one part meat to one part fat, was used: now that we do not need the preservation benefits of fat, we tend to downscale the ratio to two parts 146

Chapter 7

meat to one part fat. However, it is essential to understand the role and function of fat in a given recipe before scaling it down. Fat contributes moisture, richness, texture, balance, and

flavor to many sausage recipes; therefore, when ratios are altered, dramatic effects can be realized in the final product. The emulsion properties of fat to proteins in sausage are of principal concern. Types of fat include hard pork fatback, bacon, chicken skin, duck skin, cream, and butter.

Seasonings Seasoning is essential for sausage because it provides flavor, richness, contrast, and balance.

Salt, the most recognizable seasoning to the average person, is used in a variety of ways to impart different flavors to a chef’s dishes. Kosher salt, with its compressed structure and

quick dissolving properties, has moved to the forefront of the salts in kitchens across America. Coarser,

less refined

salts are available.

Commercial

and

artisan-produced

sea

salt are

becoming popular alternatives to iodized and kosher salts because of their authentic regional flavor profiles and influences on the marketing of a dish. Whatever salt is used, be sure to measure it by weight and weight alone. Different salts

have crystals of different shapes and sizes, resulting in inaccurate volume measurement.

Curing Agents Curing agents, as discussed in Chapter 6, are added to foods to prevent the growth of harmful anaerobic

pathogens. cooked,

Because

fresh

sausages

will be fully

they do not require the use of chemical

cures. However, sausage recipes that involve smoking or drying require curing mixes introduced in sufficient

quantity

pathogens. dried,

When

a beneficial

to exponentially

manufacturer’s More

the growth

of harmful

sausages are smoked,

they promote

bacteria salts.

to hinder

reproduce.

ratios explicitly when

in-depth

information

cured, or

environment

Follow

for

the

using curing

on the use

and

rationale behind chemical cure mixes is offered in Chapter 6.

Garnish Ingredients Some sausage recipes require that foods be folded into the forcemeat

as a garnish or enhancement

to the

presentation. One example of a familiar garnish would

be the small dice of fat and peeled and blanched pistachios folded into emulsion-ground mortadella force-

meat just before casing and poaching. Modern and

vibrancy

sausage

with

palates are accustomed of fresh

additional

herbs.

to the flavors

Herbs

flavors

can

provide

unattainable

from

dried spices. Many traditional and

modern

sausages

the use of both cooked and uncooked Assortment of Garnishes

rely on

vegetables to

enhance the texture, flavor, and color of the finished

Sausages

147

presentation.

Alcohol,

vinegars,

additional

provide

products

citrus

and

flavor for leaner

sausage preparations.

CASINGS

_

Some sausages are shaped or formed after they have undergone a grinding process. A casing, basically a container or vessel for sausage, is most often used for this purpose. Casings promote moisture retention, shaping, and presentation. The following are common types of sausage casings: 1.

Natural casings are made from the intestines,

bung,

caul fat, stomach, and so on. 2.

Collagen casings are made

from extracted

collagen

from hog hide.

3.

Synthetic material dried

casings used

are generally

for common

sausages

(salami,

a form

luncheon pepperoni,

of plastic meats

and

etc).

These

casings are nonedible and must be removed

before

final service. They are never used in fresh sausage making. The standard

purchasing unit for sausage casing is a

hank. A hank contains enough casing to form and shape

about 100 pounds of sausage. Natural casing ranges in size from a 22-millimeter sheep casing suitable for most common breakfast sausages to a 40-millimeter hog or beef casing suitable for blood sausage, liverwurst, or other large varieties of Sausage.

fabricated

Types of Synthetic Casings

Casings that are byproducts from slaughter, and

casings

can

also

be used.

For example

rounds, middles, and bung, all part of the digestive system of the cow, are common

beef

casings

for Old World—style capocollo, bologna, and salami. Collagen casings range in size from 22 to 38 millimeters. Synthetic casings, the least expensive option for shaping, range in size from 38 to 124 millimeters. When examining casings, it is important to consider texture as a key element in the fac-

tors affecting your purchase. The bite of a sausage skin is often one of the first flavors perceived. Additionally, collagen casings are not suited well for smoking; the casing is too thin and fragile and rarely holds up to the hanging of the sausage.

All natural casings come

packed

in salt. Under refrigerated conditions, purified saltpacked casings have an indefinite shelf life. The casings must be cleaned before use.

148

Chapter 7

STBY EP S ce

8

PREPARING SALTED NATURAL CASINGS 2 Rinse salt from the casing by flushing with fresh cold water. To flush casings, fill a medium nonreactive bowl with 2 cups fresh water. Place the separated hanks into the water, hanging one end of each strand over the edge of the bowl.

© O'Leary lan Kindersley Dorling

Lapin”

Unravel the hank of casing into its separate

One piece at a time, introduce fresh water

components.

into the casing and flush the inside clean, allowing the waste water to go back into the bowl. Repeat as often as necessary until the casings are clean and relatively salt free.

8 Just before use, place the casings in tepid water so they can relax and soften to prevent tears and bursts.

Kindersley Dorling © O'Leary lan

Allow the casings to soak in fresh water for at least 4 to 8 hours or overnight before use.

Sausages

149

EQUIPMENT Making sausage requires little expense in the form of additional equipment. Most operations can create high-quality sausages with a common meat grinder (an attachment to an existing piece of equipment or a stand-alone piece of equipment consisting of a tamper, feed tube, worm, X-blade, various die plates, and a stuffing tube).

A meat grinder functions by having meat dropped down a feed tube, where it is grabbed and forced forward by a worm. When it gets pushed to the front of the grinder, an X-blade cuts the meat as it is pushed through a die (the size of the die will dictate the texture and appearance of the forcemeat), resulting in smaller pieces of meat. Always make sure that the foods are diced to the size appropriate to the operation’s grinder. Meat should rarely be forced down a feed tube with a tamper; it should fall effortlessly down to the worm, where it

is then brought forward. The goal is to cut the meat as it passes through the die plate, not make a mash ot it. Because sausage making involves large amounts of sur-

face area, it is important to inspect and maintain equipment at the highest levels of sanitation. Substandard or unsanitary equipment could result in an epidemic of food-borne illness for an operation and its community. When selecting equipment, the quantity of sausage an operation is goingto produce is a principal concern. Grinders range from simple home grinding attachments for a stand mixer to an elaborate single-use grinder that can grind hundreds

of pounds

of meat

per hour.

Generally

it is often

cheaper, in the long run, to scale up at least '/4 horsepower and get a meat grinder that is capable of grinding at a faster pace than you anticipate producing. The size of the motor

dictates the efficiency of the process; although little power or torque Is required for making fresh sausage,

an operation

must maintain efficient production models to stay profitable so think about a faster production model than you actually

need at the moment.

Meat Grinder Layout

SANITATION An operation involved with sausage making must maintain proper sanitation to avoid or minimize the potential harm from an outbreak of food-borne illness. The equipment used for sausage making, shaping, and cooking must be inspected regularly. All equipment should be kept in original condition, with few or no chips, nicks, or dents in the housing. Additionally, equipment should be kept well chilled before use. Most chefs use an ice bath to cool grinders quickly and effectively for use. The work area used for sausage making should be food-safe, easily cleanable, well lit, and

free of obstructions and nonessential objects. Ample space should be available for proper mise en place of recipes and procedures. Personnel involved with sausage making should be well groomed, professionally attired, and properly trained in the practices and procedures involved. Hands should be washed before and often during the process of sausage making. Management should have a policy of reinforcing standards of cleanliness, professionalism, and quality.

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Chapter 7

MAKING FRESH SAUSAGE ;

Sausage making usually consists of the following steps:

1.

Grinding

2.

Mixing

3.

Batch testing

4.

Shaping or forming

Grinding All sausage ingredients must undergo some form of physical denaturing to make them more palatable, easier to handle, and easier to season. Two common

forms of grinds are used to

make fresh sausage: the basic grind and the emulsion grind.

STEP

BY BY Si-P STEP |

BASIC GRIND TECHNIQUE

Properly mise en place the recipe, assem-

Grind the meat, fat, and other ingredients

ble properly cleaned and chilled equipment, and prepare an ice bath for the sausage.

into a bowl over an ice bath to the desired texture. Be sure to maintain the temperature below 40°F to help ensure a quality

Mix the forcemeat to disperse the seasoning and to meld the flavors.

emulsion between the meat and fat.

PO

slg

=

a

sinhsdcrsscbeesaisricend isinusc

fe

The forcemeat is now ready for final seasoning, mixing, and forming. Hold below 40°F until ready to finish. SS

eS

SE

SS

ES

I

ST

ELS I

ET

I

a

Sausages

151

When using the basic grind technique for sausage making, multiple grind textures add a level of complexity to the sausage’s final presentation. In multiple grinding, percentages of the ingredients are ground on various-size die plates, resulting in multiple textures and a better

emulsion of meat to fat.

STEP BY STEP | EMULSION GRIND TECHNIQUE Properly mise en place the recipe and assemble properly cleaned and chilled equipment.

2 |Keeping the meat and fat separate, grind them both on the fine plate of a grinder using the basic grind technique.

3 |Mix the seasoning according to the recipe sometimes it is dispersed in the lean meat before grinding; other times it is dispersed during the icing step of the emulsion grind). 5 |Add the fat and continue to grind until the forcemeat is homogeneous and smooth. At this

4 | Place the lean meat in the bowl of a food chopper. Run the chopper until the meat is broken down to a coarse paste. With the chopper still running, begin to add the ice. It is crucial for the temperature of the forcemeat to be monitored and controlled. Temperatures during an emulsion

Stage it is crucial for the temperature of the force-

grind should never rise above 45°F to ensure a

meat to be monitored and controlled. To ensure a proper emulsion, temperatures during an emulsion grind should never rise above 55°F.

*® lege = p i| ie

ation/

proper emulsion. Continue to run the chopper until a smooth paste has formed.

@ When the mixture has reached the desired texture and a proper emulsion has been formed, the forcemeat may be removed and held below 40°F until ready to shape and process.

Mixing the Batch In the basic grind technique, the sausage commonly undergoes a thorough mixing to disperse the flavors and to inten-

sify the

meat-to-fat

emulsion

formed

during

the

grind.

Emulsion grinds use this step only if garnish items are added Educe son to the forcemeat. Peat

It is recommended that sausage be mixed by hand with a wooden spoon to ensure that excess moisture is not incor-

porated into the forcemeat. Ifthe batch is larger than 10 pounds, it is acceptable to use a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment

and running at the lowest setting. Place the ground batch in a stainless steel bowl set over an ice bath to ensure

proper temperature.

adding the liquid ingredients

(if required),

Begin slowly

stirring con-

stantly. If no liquid is required, then begin mixing by hand. The goal is to disperse flavor and solidify the emulsion, not

152

Chapter 7

to work the protein. When it appears that the seasonings have been dispersed and

the emulsion

has been

enhanced,

stop adding

liquid and

allow the

Sausage to rest.

Batch Testing At this point in the sausage-making

process, it is necessary to taste-test the

product before final processing. To do this, take a small amount of the sausage

and prepare »

it using the cooking method

intended

for the entire batch.

the batch has multiple uses, then use a neutral cooking method

If

(poaching,

baking, pan-frying) and check for texture, seasonings, moisture retention, and other factors.

Shaping and Forming Unless a sausage is to be held as a bulk sausage in its loose form, it should be shaped and formed before final production or smoking. The sausage can be shaped by using a casing or by forming it into patties.

When patties are formed, a popular form of casing fat called caul fat can be used to enhance the appearance of the sausage and hold its shape. Caul fat

is

amembrane of fat surrounding various internal organs of some animals. Caul

fat is valued for its ease of use, attractive plate presentation, and generally neu-

tral flavor profile. Testing the

Batch

SMOKING

SAUSAGE

Smoking sausage |s similar to the smoking of meats discussed in Chapter 6; however, there are some key principles to follow when dealing with smoking sausages:

1.

Only cured sausages should be smoked.

2.

For best results, sausages should undergo some form of pellicle formation or air drying process before smoking. The formation of the pellicle will allow better smoke adhesion,

flavor absorption, and flavor development of the sausage.

COOKING METHODS FOR FRESH SAUSAGES Sausages can be cooked using a variety of cooking methods, depending on the flavor and texture of the sausage and its function in a recipe. Sausages benefit from cooking methods that retain and enhance natural flavors; these

include braising, simmering, grilling, broiling, pan-frying, sautéing, and roasting. Whatever method

is implemented,

it is crucial

to understand

the function

of the sausage

in the

finished dish.

Sausages

153

STEP BY STEP | STUFFING SAUSAGE INTO CASING

Educatic Pearson

Place the forcemeat into the bin of a stuffer

Place the desired length of processed cas-

The goal of this process is to allow the

(do this by hand, being careful to avoid air pockets) or be ready to re-feed it through your grinder set up with the stuffing nozzle attachment.

ing onto the nozzle and slowly feed the forcemeat into the casing according to the directions of the sausage stuffer.

sausage being pushed through the nozzle to grab and pull the casing off the nozzle. So in a sense the sausage will dictate the rate of production. Be careful to work in a controlled manner, avoiding air pockets

and overstuffing of the casing.

After all of the meat has been encased, remove any air bubbles with a sausage picker (a needled device designed to puncture casings to remove air). SS

154

Chapter 7

Twist and shape the sausage into links or ropes as desired.

a

Sa

SS

a

SUES

7.1 VERMONT BREAKFAST SAUSAGE VANS om lop

!

41/2 |b. lean pork butt, large dice

Combine the pork butt, fatback, poultry seasoning, and pepper in a

11/2 Ib. pork fatback, rinsed and skinned, medium dice

large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well and chill.

4 Tbsp. poultry seasoning 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the first grind, pass the pork mixture through the coarsest plate of he meat grinder.

+

For the second grind, pass 60 percent of the pork mixture through the medium plate.

2 Tbsp. kosher salt 41/2 tsp. fresh chives, minced

Mix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat.

41/2 tsp. Italian parsley, minced

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

1c. Vermont maple syrup 4 Tbsp. ice water

Either Keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

7.2 ITALIAN SAUSAGE TEED: 5 Ib.

41/2 Ib. pork butt, large dice 11/2 Ib. pork fatback, rinsed and skinned, medium dice

1 head garlic, peeled and chopped 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. fennel seeds 1 Tbsp. paprika

hd

1 or 2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional; for making hot

Italian sausage) 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 4 Tbsp. ice water

Combine the pork butt, fatback, garlic, black pepper, fennel, paprika, and red pepper flakes (if using) in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well and chill. For the first grind, pass the pork mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. For the second grind, pass 60 percent of the pork mixture through the medium plate. Add the salt and ice water and mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

Sausages

155

7.3 ADIRONDACK

STOUT SAUSAGE

YIELD: 2) lo

3 Ib. pork butt, large dice 1 lb. beef, large dice

1 lb. smoked ham, large dice 2 c. stout beer 2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 c. coarse brown mustard 1/2 Tbsp. ground mace 1 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 oz. fresh oregano, chopped

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for 30 minutes. For the first grind, pass the pork-beef mixture through the coarsest

plate of the meat grinder. For the second grind, pass 80 percent of the pork-beef mixture through the medium plate.

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either Keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

1 oz. fresh sage, chopped 5 Tbsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. maple syrup

7.4 FRESH ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE VANEILID) Bilb:

5 Ib. pork butt, large dice 3 Tbsp. sweet paprika 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. coarsely ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. garlic, minced

2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 2 tsp. cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp. dried thyme, crushed 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg

1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1/2 c. water

156

Chapter 7

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for at least 30 minutes but up to 24 hours. For the first grind, pass the pork mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. For the second grind, pass 80 percent of the pork mixture through the medium plate.

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

Hot-smoke the sausage until the internal temperature reaches 155°F to 160°F.

7.5 MERGUEZ SAUSAGE MIBED: 5 Ib.

:

31/2 Ib. lean lamb, iarge dice 11/2 Ib. pork fatback, large dice

11/2 oz. salt 21/2 tsp. honey 11/2 tsp. quatre épices

Combine the lamb, fatback, salt, honey, quatre épices, red pepper flakes, garlic, roasted bell peppers, parsley, and pine nuts in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

For the tirst grind, pass the lamb-pork mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. For the second grind, pass 60 percent of the lamb-pork mixture

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes

through the medium plate.

2 Tbsp. roasted garlic, mashed and cooled

Mix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat.

1 Ib. roasted red bell peppers, peeled and seeded, small dice

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

2 c. fresh parsley, chopped

1c. pine nuts 1/2 c. dry red wine

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

l/2 c. ice water

7.6 BRATWURST YIELD: 5 Ib. 4 |b. pork butt, large dice

1 Ib. fatback, large dice 4 Tbsp. kosher salt

41/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1 Tbsp. fresh sage, chopped 5 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. mustard seeds 11/2 tsp. ground nutmeg 4 Tbsp. milk powder

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for 30 minutes. For the first grind, pass the pork-fatback mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. For the second grind, pass 80 percent of the pork-fatback mixture through the medium plate. Mix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat.

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

Sausages

157

7./ FRENCH GARLIC SAUS AGE YIELD: Sul:

4 lb. pork butt, large dice 1 Ib. fatback, large dice

1 Ib. smoked ham, large dice

8 garlic cloves, chopped 1 Tbsp. white pepper

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for 30 minutes. For the first grind, pass the pork-fatback mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder.

or the second grind, pass 80 percent of the pork-fatback mixture through the medium plate.

2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1/2 c. milk powder

ix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat. Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted = ith the paddle attachment or dough hook.

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or tuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

n

7.8 KIELBASA MIEBED: 5 Ib.

2 ib. pork butt, large dice

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix

3 Ib. beef chuck, large dice

well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for 30 minutes.

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

For the first grind, pass the pork-beef mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder.

2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar

11/2 tsp. ground cumin

For the second grind, pass 60 percent of the pork-beef mixture through the medium plate.

Mix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat. Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted

1 Tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped

=. th the paddle attachment or dough hook.

11/2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped

m™ ther keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

2 Tbsp. yellow mustard 4 Tbsp. water

7.9 BREAKFAST S A

10 Ib. pork butt, large dice 4 Tbsp. salt

1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp. brown sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped 1 tsp. ground nutmeg 1 Tbsp. rubbed sage

1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped 1 Tbsp. ground cloves

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

158

Chapter 7

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for 30 minutes. For the first grind, pass the pork through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder.

For the second grind, pass 60 percent of the pork through the medium plate. Mix the remaining ingredients into the forcemeat.

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

7.10 SEAFOOD SAUSAGE YIELD: Slo.

11/2 Ib. scallops 1/2 lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 egg yolks

3 egg whites 11/4 c. heavy cream

Combine the whole scallops and shrimp and the egg yolks in the container of a food processor. Purée to form a smooth paste.

With the machine running, add the egg whites, one at a time, making sure each one is fully incorporated before adding the next. Slowly add the cream, increasing to a steady drizzle, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl.

1/2 c. fresh tarragon, chopped

Transfer the forcemeat to a bowl placed over ice.

1 tsp. Tabasco sauce

Gently fold in the tarragon, Tabasco, salt, and white pepper.

11/2 tsp. salt

Add the smoked scallops and shrimp, folding gently to combine.

White pepper, to taste 4 oz. smoked scallop, medium dice 4 oz. smoked shrimp, medium dice

oy We =Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

7.11 CHICKEN CHORIZO WITH CILANTRO YIELD: 10 Ib.

2 oz. salt

1/2 oz. granulated garlic 1/4 0z. onion powder 1/2 oz. cumin, ground

Combine the salt, granulated garlic, onion powder, cumin, coriander, chili powder, black pepper, cilantro, lime zest, roasted jalapenos, harissa, chicken and pork in a stainless steel bowl set over an ice bath and mix well to combine. Spread the chicken-pork mixture out on a sheet pan and chill to

4 Tbsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground

30 degrees in the freezer.

2 Tbsp. chili powder

Pass 60 percent of the chicken-pork mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. Pass 20 percent through the medium plate. Pass 20 percent through the small plate.

2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 11/2 oz. fresh cilantro, chopped

Zest of 2 limes 4 jalapefio peppers, roasted, peeled, and stems removed

1 oz. harissa 6 lb. chicken, leg and thigh meat, tendons removed, large dice

3 Ib. pork butt, large dice

Add the ice water (1/2 cup at a time until it is all incorporated and absorbed by the forcemeat) and mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

1 Ib. fatback, medium dice

2 c. crushed ice and water

Sausages

159

7.12 CHICKEN PANCETTA SAUSAGE YIELD:

10 Ib.

7 |b. chicken, leg and thigh meat, large dice 1 Ib. pancetta, large dice

3 oz. salt 2 tsp. rubbed sage 3 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

2 c. crushed ice and water 2 fennel bulbs, thinly shaved and sweated

1 Ib. white mushrooms, chopped 1 Ib. pine nuts, toasted

Pass the chicken and pancetta through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. Transfer to the bow! of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Add the salt, sage, red pepper flakes, and ice water. Mix gently for 1 minute. Pass 50 percent of the chicken-pancetta mixture through the medium plate of the meat grinder. Transfer the forcemeat back to the mixing bowl with the remaining 50% of coarse ground sausage. Add the fennel, mushrooms, and pine nuts. Mix for 5 minutes on the lowest setting.

Stuff the forcemeat into (11/2"-13/4") 38-42 millimeter hog casings, forming a chain of 21/2-inch links. Poach the sausages in 190°F water until the internal temperature reaches 160°F.

7.13 CHORIZO SAUSAGE VWALEIMDE 10 Ib.

2 oz. salt 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. chili powder 3 Tbsp. granulated garlic 11/2 oz. harissa 1 Tbsp. cayenne pepper

10 Ib. pork butt, large dice

2 c. crushed ice and water

Place the pork in a stainless steel bowl set over an ice bath. Add the salt, pepper, chili powder, granulated garlic, harissa and cayenne. Mix well to combine. Spread the pork mixture out on a sheet pan and chill to 30 degrees in the freezer. Pass 60 percent of the pork mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder. Pass 20 percent through the medium plate. Pass 20 percent through the small plate.

Add the ice water (1/2 cup at a time until it is all incorporated and absorbed by the forcemeat) and mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

160

Chapter 7

7.14 CREPINETTE SAUSAGE YIELD: 10 |b.

/

2 heads bok choy, green part only, chiffonade

Sauté the bok choy in the butter until tender. Season with salt and

2 oz. butter

pepper, drain, and cool.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Sauté the onions until almost caramelized. Add the garlic, drain, and cool.

11/2 Ib. white onions, julienne 2 Tbsp. garlic, minced

10 Ib. pork butt, large dice 2 oz. salt

Combine the pork, salt, paprika, red pepper flakes, sugar, parsley, thyme, harissa, and cayenne in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

2 Tbsp. paprika

Pass the pork mixture twice through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder.

2 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Combine the forcemeat, bok choy, onions, and ice water in a large

2 Tbsp. brown sugar

nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well to combine.

1 oz. fresh parsley, chopped

Wrap the forcemeat in rectangular pieces of the caul fat, forming oblong shapes. Place seam side down on paper lined sheet tray.

2 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped 2 Tbsp. harissa 1 tsp. cayenne pepper

2 c. crushed ice and water 4 |b. caul fat

7.15 LAMB SAUSAGE WIEED: 10 Ib.

8 oz. fresh basil, chopped 1 Ib. sundried tomatoes, small dice 1 Ib. Asiago cheese, small dice 5 Ib. lamb, large dice

4 Ib. pork butt, large dice

Combine the basil, tomatoes, and cheese in a large mixing bowl. Reserve half for the garnish; reserve the other half for grinding with the meat. For the first grind, pass the lamb and one-fourth of the basil-tomato

mixture through the coarsest plate of the meat grinder.

2 Ib. fatback, large dice

For the second grind, pass the pork, fatback, and one-fourth of the basil-tomato mixture through the medium plate.

2 Tbsp. granulated garlic

Transfer the forcemeat to a bowl set over an ice bath. Add the re-

3 oz. kosher salt

maining basil-tomato mixture and the ice water (1/2 cup at a time until it is all incorporated and absorbed by the forcemeat) mix by hand vigorously until the mixture is tacky and well combined.

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

2 c. crushed ice and water

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings and process into the desired shape.

Sausages

161

7.16 SAUCISSON YIELD: ov| toy

5 heads garlic

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Olive oil

Cut the garlic heads in half horizontally and place them in olive oil, cut side down. Cook over low heat until the garlic is slightly brown. Turn the heads over, cover with aluminum foil, and roast in the oven until the garlic is soft and caramelized. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When cool enough to handle remove the cloves from the garlic skins.

7 |b. lean pork, large dice 11/4 oz. brown sugar 1 oz. paté spice

11/2 tsp. Insta Cure No. 1 7 |b. pork butt, large dice

3 oz. salt 2 oz. cornstarch 1 tsp. nutmeg 2 c. crushed ice and water

Combine the lean pork with the sugar, paté spice, and Insta Cure No.1 in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Wrap, and leave to marinate overnight. Place the pork butt in a mixing bowl along with the salt and roasted garlic cloves, and marinate overnight. The next day, pass the pork butt through the fine plate. Add the cornstarch and nutmeg to the ice water and mix thoroughly with the ground pork butt. Using a food processor or buffalo chopper and working in small batches, mix the ground pork butt until a fine texture is obtained. Add the ground pork butt to the lean pork and mix by hand thoroughly.

Stuff the forcemeat into nonedible casings and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Poach the sausages in 190°F water until the internal temperature reaches 160°F.

7.17 MEXICAN CHORIZO YIELD: 5 Ib.

5 Ib. pork butt, large dice

2. guajillo and/or ancho chilies, ground 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp. sweet paprika

1/2 tsp. dried oregano 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/g tsp. ground cloves 1/4 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. Insta Cure No. 1 4 Tbsp. cider vinegar 5 garlic cloves, minced

162

Chapter 7

Pass the pork through the medium plate of the meat grinder. Chill and reserve. Combine the chilies, salt, pepper, paprika, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, baking soda and Insta Cure in a small nonreactive bowl. Grind very fine in a spice mill. Combine the vinegar, garlic, and spice mixture in a small nonreactive bowl. Mix well. Add this mixture to the forcemeat. Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into 32-millimeter hog casings and form into 4-inch links.

7.18 SOUTH AMERICAN YIELD: 5 Ib.

CHORIZO

/

4 Tbsp. red wine

tl. Combine the wine, salt, pepper, garlic, sugar, paprika, Insta Cure, cloves, nutmeg, and marjoram in a small nonreactive bowl. Allow the mixture to steep for about 1 hour.

5 tsp. salt 5 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Meanwhile, remove all tendons, membranes, and gland fat from the meat. Combine the beef and pork butt in a large nonreactive bowl.

3 garlic cloves, mashed

1 Tbsp. granulated sugar

Mix well. Chill for two hours.

5 tsp. sweet paprika

Pass the pork belly through the medium plate on the meat grinder.

1 tsp. Insta Cure No. 2

Pass the beef-pork mixture twice through the fine plate.

1 tsp. ground cloves

Combine the seasonings and forcemeat in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well.

3/4 tsp. ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp. dried marjoram

6. Pack the forcemeat into a stainless steel or nonreactive pan, cover

3 Ib. beef bottom round, large dice

tightly, and chill for 3 days to cure.

2 |b. pork butt, large dice

Stuff the forcemeat into 35-millimeter hog casings and form into 6-inch links.

1 Ib. pork belly, large dice

Air dry the links at 75°F to 80°F for 12 hours to form a pellicle.

Cold smoke (80°F to 90°F) for 2 hours.

10.

7.19 CHORIZO CON PIMIENTO WITH SWEET PEPPER)

Allow the chorizo to dry at 70°F to 75°F for 2 weeks; by then the sausage should be hard and somewhat wrinkled.

(SP ANISH SAUSAGE wore

se

YIELD:

5 Ib.

3 Ib. very lean pork, large dice, partly frozen

I.

Pass the lean pork and pork belly through a !/2-inch (12-millimeter) plate on the meat grinder.

2.

Combine the salt, bell peppers, paprika, and garlic in a small nonreactive bowl. Mix well. Add this mixture to the pork mixture and mix until the forcemeat becomes sticky.

2 |b. pork belly or jowl, large dice, partly frozen 5 tsp. salt

1/2 Ib. roasted red bell peppers, small dice 7 tsp. smoked paprika

3

Pan-cure the forcemeat in the cooler for 24 hours.

2 tsp. garlic powder

Stuff the forcemeat into 32- to 34-millimeter casings. Tie into rings of

1 tsp. Insta Cure No. 2

approximately 4 ounces each.

5).

Hold the chorizo at room temperature for 3 hours to allow the casings to completely dry.

6. Age the sausages at 55°F with a relative humidity around 70 percent. Dry the sausages until their weight has decreased 20 percent.

Sausages

163

7.20 SPICY LAMB, PINE NUT, AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO SAUSAGE YIELD: 5 Ib.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix well. Allow the mixture to rest uncovered in the cooler for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

3 Ib. lamb, large dice

1 Ib. pork belly, large dice 1 Ib. pancetta, large dice

For the first grind, pass the mixture through the coarsest plate of the

2 oz. fresh cilantro, chopped

meat grinder.

1/3 c. dried sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped

For the second grind, pass 80 percent of the mixture through the

4 Tbsp. white onion, small dice

medium plate.

1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

4 Tbsp. pine nuts, toasted

Either keep the sausage as bulk and form into 2-ounce patties or stuff into casings to form 2-ounce links.

2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 2 oz. fresh basil, chopped 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. garlic, minced

1 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground 1 tsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. allspice, ground

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

As this chapter has explained, there are many common types of sausage. However, there is an

infinite combination

of meats, spices, textures and forms that can

play a part in making

Sausage a unique selling point for your operation.

The skills associated with this chapter and with sausage making in general will afford an operation and its chef critical tools in controlling food costs by using excess trim and waste, promoting creative thinking, and encouraging flavor diversity on the menu.

164

Chapter 7

Explain the purpose of using a casing. To form a good emulsion during the basic grind,

what steps must be taken?

List and

What are the major components in sausage? Why is it important to test a batch of sausage?

What

are the characteristics

Design a sanitation strategy for a sausage-grinding station in a commercial kitchen.

of a basic-grind

Sausage and an emulsion-grind sausage?

describe

the three common

types of

commercial sausages. Why is an ice bath used to chill grinding equipment?

Describe the differences between the basic grind and emulsion grind techniques.

FOR QUESTIONS

Sausages

165

Contemporary Charcuterie raditional charcuterie, derived from the French words chair cuite, meaning “cooked meat,” included the processing of pork products into savory and profitable preparations. In France, royal decree stipulated that charcuteries be the sole providers of pork meat and preparations involving pork. In contemporary kitchens, charcuterie primarily comprises the production of patés, terrines, roulades, galantines, torchons, and other formed and prepared meats. Sausage making and the smoking, curing, and preserving of meats still falls under the realm of charcuterie. Modern charcuterie is dynamic, partially impacted by the effects of globalization on the availability of foods from varied ethnic cuisines. Techniques are being retained, but with new ingredients being substituted for traditional foods. With American cuisine allowinggan open approach to food and the cookery behind it, the garde manger chef has open invitation to experiment, alter, and create new, diverse dishes.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES By the end of this chapter, students should be able to: 1. Understand the role of charcuterie in modern food service operations. 2. Discuss how charcuterie can preserve and maintain profit margins and operating ratios for food service operations.

3. Discuss why sanitation, equipment maintenance, and temperature play items. such a vital role in the production of i 4. |dentify various charcuterie items. O1.

List, define, and prepare the four basic types of forcemeat._

6. Prepare a variety of charcuterie items using forcemeats.

KEY TERMS binding agent charcuterie country-style forcemeat dominant meat

fat forcemeat galantine garnish ingredient gratin forcemeat

mousseline forcemeat quenelle panada raised meat pie paté en croiite roulade progressive-grind ___terrine forcemeat = —_ torchon

167

WHAT IS CHARCUTERIE? Charcuterie has been around since humankind first began to domesticate and butcher livestock. Archeologists have discovered sites with more than 50,000 animal bones, more than

50 percent of which were from early varieties of hogs. As the French classically define it, charcuterie is the processing of pork products into savory preparations such as patés, terrines, meat pies, sausages, and

PORE LSSS ASSET

galantines.

The

modern

definition

has

included

a

broader range of ingredients, including fish and shellfish and even vegetables. Generally contemporary char-

t

cuterie refers to the following derivative preparations of forcemeat: . Terrines . Paté en crodte

. Raised meat pies . Galantines . Torchons and roulades . IN) (>) 28s @r en

Quenelles

Terrines are forcemeat preparations baked in con:

ae

Pep si as

tainers or molds that are lined with fat and sealed either

with a tight-fitting lid or with a dough preparation com-

posed of flour and water. Molds for terrines may be individual-serving size or large enough for multiple servings.

Charcuterie Dishes

Terrines are commonly baked in a hot-water bath placed inside a moderate oven and are commonly weighted during the cooling phase of production to make the pate firmer in texture. Terrines, paté en crodte, and raised meat pies are quite similar, with the difference being

in the manner in which these preparations are cooked. Unlike a terrine, paté en croite and raised meat pies are encased in an edible and savory dough preparation. Paté en crotite can be baked in a mold or free-form, whereas raised meat pies are baked using an open-top decorative mold. Galantines are forcemeat preparations that are rolled inside the skin of one of the meat ingredients: chicken, turkey, duck, and the like. The forcemeat mixture is formed into a cylin-

drical shape and then poached in a court bouillon, or it may be baked or roasted. Galantines can be supported during cooking by wrapping in cheesecloth (for those being poached) or with

the use of aluminum foil or butcher’s twine (for those being roasted or baked). Ballotines, dodines, and jamboneaux are also preparations that involve encasing some form of forcemeat ease

Moder Varieties of Terine Molds

in the skin of poultry, yet they are allowed to have noncylindrical shapes. Jamboneaux are fan-

tastic preparations that allow the garde manger chef to use lesser cuts of poultry that are the by-products of supréme fabrication. Torchons, with word origins meaning “cooked in towel,” are most commonly associated = ¥ with foie gras, in which the towel in the cooking process is usually cheesecloth. A torchon is

3 any charcuterie item that relies on the forming and moisture-retention properties offered by = & wrapping a preparation in cheesecloth or another permeable fabric encasement. Roulades are planked and flattened meats with a forcemeat mixture spread on top that are Pe Classic en

168

IW

SET

Crofite Terrine Mold

Chapter 8

then rolled into a pinwheel formation and cooked. Roulades are common in both hot and cold cuisine styles, primarily because of the visual appeal provided by the fabrication and production process.

Quenelles are oval-shaped pieces of a mixture of puréed light proteins, a binding agent, and seasoning that are either poached

or roasted.

Quenelles,

unlike most charcuterie

preparations, do not rely on the dominant meat or fat for their texture; the combination of

pureed protein, binding agent, and sometimes egg product provides a soft mouth feel. Quenelles are decorative and provide a vehicle for chefs to upsell generic products through presentation.

Contemporary charcuterie is also a profitable tool for the organization.

Food service

operations and executive chefs rely on the ability of the garde manger to use scraps, byproducts of other processes,

and creativity to turn wasted

items into savory profit. When

meats are ground, It does not matter whether they came from the tenderloin or the round; the

fats are trimmed and the physical denaturing levels the playing field for all cuts of meat and scraps. Profits from charcuterie items can far surpass those of trendy or designer food products; simply compare the per-ounce cost of center-of-the-plate items such as shrimp, scallops, and foie gras to the cost of items typically used in charcuterie, such as chicken liver, calf liver, pork butt, ham shanks, and belly meat. A creative chef with a developed

palate can

produce more profit from charcuterie items than from many appetizers that are commonplace in most restaurants.

KQUIPMENT AND SANITATION Because most charcuterie items are derivatives of ground and processed meats, high standards of equipment

maintenance

are of critical importance. The potential for food-borne

illness is increased dramatically when the surface area of any meat item is increased. Therefore, the importance of sanitation, hygiene, and cleanliness when preparing charcuterie items is easy to see.

As with sausage making, the work area used for charcuterie production should be food

safe and easily cleanable, well lit, and free of obstructions and nonessential objects. Ample space should be available for proper mise en place of recipes and procedures. Personnel

involved

sionally attired, and should

be washed

with

charcuterie

properly trained before,

and

often

production

should

in the practices and during,

the process

be well groomed, procedures

involved.

of charcuterie

profesHands

production.

Management should have a policy of reinforcing standards of cleanliness, professionalism,

and quality.

One of the best preventive measures that can be taken when working with charcuterie is vigilant regard for proper temperatures. Working in a cool, clean environment and paying attention to the temperature of the foods being produced at various stages can do as much for

sanitation and minimizing the spread of food-borne illness as it can for ensuring quality crafts-

manship. If possible, workers should fabricate and process meats and meat items in a refrigerated room with ample air turnover and good lighting.

FORCEMEAT Forcemeat, a mixture of meat, fat, seasonings, and spices that has been chopped, ground,

or puréed, acts as the underpinning for most charcuterie preparations by creating a platform for texture, flavor, and appearance. Forcemeats vary in texture from coarse to very smooth, depending on the desired style of charcuterie preparation, yet should always be flavorful

and enticing. Contemporary Charcuterie

169

Types of Forcemeat Generally speaking, four common used in contemporary charcuterie:

styles of forcemeat

are

1. Progressive grind 2. Country style 3. Gratin

4. Mousseline Progressive-grind forcemeat is composed of equal parts of a dominant

ground

meat,

twice, once

lean

pork, and

through

a coarse

fat. The

mixture

is

grinding plate and

then again through a finer plate. The resulting forcemeat Is smooth

Varieties of Forcemeat

and

refined, with

a homogeneous

mixture of the

meat and fat. Country-style forcemeat is more rustic and less refined in appearance. Commonly countrystyle forcemeat has pork as the dominant meat; a portion of the meat is in the form of liver (pork and veal are most common). Country-style forcemeats are generally ground on a larger, more coarse plate; sometimes they are coarsely chopped in a food processor. The resulting

forcemeat is coarse, with larger pieces of meat and fat giving a visual appeal to the product. Gratin forcemeat

is similar to progressive-grind

forcemeat

in that the ingredients are

processed through a meat grinder; however, in gratin forcemeat, a portion of the dominant

meat has been seared to enhance the flavor and color of the final product. The resulting forcemeat has a rich, intense main flavor with a refined appearance and rich color.

Mousseline forcemeats are commonly the lightest and most delicate of the forcemeats. Lean, light proteins such as fish, shellfish, chicken, turkey, and rabbit are excellent for use in

mousseline forcemeat.

Mousseline forcemeats are mostly puréed or pounded and include

cream as the fat and egg product as the binding agent. The resulting forcemeat Is light yet firm,

is vibrant in color, and has a smooth, pliable texture.

Components of Forcemeat Most forcemeat contains some common components. All forcemeats have the following main components:

Dominant meat

Fat Binding agent

Seasonings eek SUT agGarnish ingredients The dominant meat provides most of the item’s structure, as well as being the main flavor focus. For example, if foie gras is being used, the chef would intend to highlight the attributes of foie gras in the final preparation. If a more

subtle protein is being used, such as sole, the chef has a greater challenge to highlight the sole while balancing the other ingredients to promote a harmonious composition of flavor, texture, and presentation. Dominant Components

170

of Forcemeat

Chapter 8

meat can include

any protein as well as vegetables. Mushrooms are a common

vegetable used in charcu-

terie; they have similar characteristics to other proteins and are an excellent source of nutrition. The fat in a forcemeat preparation provides moistness, richness, and flavor. Fats are com-

monly ground directly into the forcemeat; however, they can be added as a layered component during assembly and production or can be part of the liner fat in a terrine. Many ingredients can serve as fat; butter, cream, suet, fatback, various oils, and the intermuscular fat from protein can all be used.

Some forcemeats need a binding agent to help encourage a more stable structure. The protein’s reaction to physical denaturing will provide most of the structure within a paté or terrine; however, some proteins are soft, with less defined protein structures, and an ad-

ditional binder may be needed.

Binding agents provide adhesion, as well as ingredients

that promote the retention of fats, flavor, and shape.

Nonfat dried milk powder,

heavily

thickened sauces, and a panada (pre-gelatinized mixtures of liquid and starches such as rice, potato, and flour) will absorb the liquid fat and free moisture released from forcemeat during the cooking process, therefore retaining it within the forcemeat and providing struc-

ture. Common

examples of binding agents include eggs, panadas, paté a choux, nonfat

dry milk powder, well-cooked

and

puréed

rice and

potato, various flours, and ground

starch products. All forcemeats need to be seasoned. Salt and pepper make up the primary ingredients

for seasoning; many other ingredients can also add value, vitality, and interest to forcemeat. Herbs and spices, used as individual ingredients or as components in various mixtures, can be used to enhance the appeal and interest of many forcemeats. Puréed onions added to the meat before grinding can provide a subtle base note of flavor that is hard to describe yet present for all palates. Marinades used on proteins before grinding can also promote an enhanced

flavor profile.

Garnish ingredients are added to forcemeat after the meat has been ground. Often nuts, dried fruits, diced cured

meats, or chopped

raw meats are used as garnish ingre-

dients. Garnish ingredients can break up and add contrast to the visual appearance of a

forcemeat. Additionally, key flavor notes that are added to garnish ingredients or come from them directly often enhance and balance the flavor of a forcemeat. Garnish ingredients such as large pieces of meats, nuts, fruits, or vegetables can improve the structure of a forcemeat

by offering something for the forcemeat to grab on to and morph

around.

USING CURING SALTS IN CHARCUTERIE As discussed in Chapter 7, the use of nitrites and nitrates is essential for preventing certain anaerobic microbes in cured foods. Most charcuterie work discussed in this chapter does not rely on the lengthy cure process or smoking that encourages the growth of those anaerobic microbes. However, nitrites and nitrates also help retain color in cooked meats and diminish the effects of light on the finished product. Using Insta Cure No.1 and Insta Cure No.2, as de-

scribed in Chapter 6, is a good safety precaution even for those who are not opposed to chemical methods of food preservation.

Contemporary Charcuterie

171

SiEF

BY

STEF

MAKING PROGRESSIVE-GRIND FORCEMEAT GB Prepare the meats, fat, and garnish

@ Cut the meats and fat into strips or

ingredients as directed in the recipe; chill well.

dice. Marinate them as required. Keep them chilled at all times.

Grind the meats and fat twice, first through a coarse plate and then through a medium plate. Refrigerate the mixture or hold it over ice.

Combine the ground meat with the panada in a food processor.

172

Chapter 8

Process the mixture until it is smooth and then fold in any garnish ingredients.

STEP

BY BY STEP STEP |

MAKING COUNTRY-STYLE FORCEMEAT Prepare the meats, fat, and garnish ingredients as directed in the recipe; chill well.

Cut the meats and fat into strips or dice. Marinate them as required. Keep them chilled at all times.

Grind the meats and fat twice, first through a coarse plate and then through a medium plate. Refrigerate or hold the mixture over ice.

LiCollege

tlon/r uca

4 16}

uo

7)

ih

el

|e

RS

SR

ER

TE

SESS

SSS

|

Gently work the liver, panada, and garnish ingredients into the ground meats and fat by hand, working over ice.

Push the liver through a drum sieve.

TI

ELS

RST SE

SST

LET

LT TE

DID ES SS

TES

SE ST SS

ELSIE LE DEL LEED ESELLE TTD SIDI EDEN

EDEL ILS LEISES ITE TAS EDEL

Contemporary Charcuterie

173

STEP BY STEP | MAKING GRATIN FORCEMEAT

Clean the chicken livers and cut the other

Sear the livers and cool them completely.

meats and fat into strips or cubes.

Grind the meats, livers, and fat twice, first through a coarse plate and then through a medium plate. Refrigerate the mixture or hold it over ice. Combine the ground meat with the panada in a food processor.

Process the mixture until it is smooth and

then fold in any garnish ingredients.

174

Chapter 8

STEP

BY BY STEP STEF

MAKING A MOUSSELINE FORCEMEAT Cut the meat into dice. Keep it very cold.

B Grind the meat to a paste in a food

processor.

© Culinary America of Institute

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Add aspic gelée if desired or necessary, in the same manner.

6 |Push the forcemeat through a drum sieve.

Contemporary Charcuterie

175

SHAPING FORCEMEAT As mentioned at the beginning of the chapter, forcemeat is often formed, shaped, or molded for presentation. This provides a great opportunity for the garde manger chef to impart artistic elements to the food.

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SHAPING A GALANTINE 1S) ae

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Place the butterflied breast and tenderloin meat in a thin layer over the skin.

Place some of the forcemeat mixture in a cylindrical shape along the center of the butterflied meat.

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Using either cheesecloth or plastic wrap, roll the galantine into a tight cylinder, making sure to tie both ends tightly.

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Secure the galantine with heavy aluminum foil.

When sliced, the galantine should have an even thickness of the butterflied meat and forcemeat.

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176

Chapter 8

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BY BY STEP STEP

FORMING A TERRINE

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Line the terrine mold with thinly sliced sheets of fatback.

Gently fill the terrine with forcemeat and garnish ingredients, being sure to disperse the ingredients evenly across the terrine mold.

College ication/PH

Pearson College Education/PH

Place the terrine mold in a hot-water bath to cook.

When finished, the terrine should resemble the mold it was cooked in and should have a very Clean and elegant presentation when sliced.

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177

STEP

BY

SIEF

FORMING PATE EN CROUTE

Make sure the corner seams of the lined

and trim it to make sure it fits the mold without having to deal with extra dough.

mold seal by using a small ball of excess dough to press the seams closed.

34

Americe of stitute ns

When the terrine mold Is fully lined with en crodte dough, line the dough with thin slices of ham and then fill with the forcemeat.

Add a cap piece of dough to the filled terrine and tuck in the edges of the dough.

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crodte is baked and cooled, cavity with liquid aspic to paté that is easier to slice, consume.

Note: An alternative to the formed paté en crofite would be the raised meat pie.

178

Chapter 8

“tina!

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The finished paté en crotite should have a tight fit between the forcemeat and the en crodte dough.

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BY BY SEP STEP

MAKING ASPIC MOLDS

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Pour a small amount of aspic into a clean, grease-free mold. When the aspic has set, begin to add decorations and garnishes on top of it and cover with another thin layer of aspic.

Using a ladle, pour cold aspic down the side edge of the mold, being sure to fill any gaps.

Dorling © Young Kindersley erry

Pipe or fill the mold with an appropriate amount of cooked forcemeat or other foods, leaving enough room for additional aspic to be added as a Seal coat.

When finished, release the aspic mold with gently applied heat. The aspic should resemble the mold it was set in, presenting a clean and elegant form.

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Raised Meat Pie

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179

8.1 RED ZINFANDEL DUCK TERRINE WITH PANCETTA, ALMONDS, AND CHERRIES YIELD: One 3-lb. terrine

2 Ib. duck meat

Preheat the oven to 285°F.

8 oz. fatback

Combine the duck meat and the fatback.

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

Grind 80 percent of the meat through a medium plate and 20 percent through a fine plate.

2 Tbsp. fresh chervil, chopped

Place the meat mixture over a bowl of ice and fold in the salt, chervil, white pepper, parsley, clove, star anise, and wine.

1 Tbsp. white pepper 1 Tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped

To make the panada, combine the flour and cream in a small bowl.

1/2 tsp. ground cloves

Mix well.

1/2 tsp. ground star anise 1/2 c. red Zinfandel wine

Fold the panada into the meat mixture. Mix well, making sure that the panada is evenly mixed into the forcemeat.

2 Tbsp. flour

Fold the pancetta, almonds, and cherries into the forcemeat mixture.

2 Tbsp. heavy cream

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the ham slices, eaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the liners over the terrine and cover the mold. Poach in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal

4 oz. pancetta, small dice 6 oz. almonds, skins removed, toasted

21/2 oz. dried sweet cherries

temperature reaches 165°F, about 60 to 70 minutes.

Sliced ham, as needed for lining

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room temperature for 1 hour.

lO}

Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days.

Wk.

Unmold, slice, and serve.

8.2 PATE SPICE MIX YIELD: 3 cups

36 oz. white pepper

Il. Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Mix well.

4 oz. ground nutmeg

Zz

Pass the mixture through a spice grinder and grind to a fine texture.

31/2 oz. ground ginger

3

Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

1 oz. ground cloves

1 oz. ground mace 1/2 oz. bay leaf 1/2 oz. ground thyme 1/4 oz. rubbed sage, chopped

1 oz. cayenne pepper

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Chapter 8

8.3 PATE FORESTIER YIELD: 5 Ib.

4

5 Ib. pork butt, cut into large dice

Preheat a convection oven to 290°F.

11/2 oz. salt

Combine the pork, salt, curing salt, paté spice, thyme, and brandy in a large mixing bowl. Allow to marinate for 1 day under refrigeration.

1 tsp. Insta Cure No. 1

Split the mixture into two equal parts. Grind half of the mixture once through a coarse plate. Grind the other half of the mixture three times through a coarse plate.

5 tsp. paté spice 2 tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped 4 fl. oz. brandy

Combine the onion, mushrooms, garlic, and parsley in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth.

10 oz. white onion, julienne, sautéed and cooled

10 oz. white mushrooms, sliced, sautéed and cooled

Add the calf liver and continue to process until the mixture is finely chopped. Add the eggs, flour, and milk and process until smooth.

1 tsp. garlic, minced 1 oz. fresh parsley, chopped

Combine the liver mixture with the half of the pork forcemeat that

3 oz. calf liver

was ground three times. Return this mixture to the food processor

and work until well combined.

3 eggs

Fold the once-ground pork forcemeat into the liver mixture and mix well.

2 oz. flour 2 fl. oz. milk

Line a terrine mold with caul fat or thinly sliced fatback. Fill the mold with the paté mixture. Brush the top with egg wash.

Caul fat or thinly sliced fatback, as needed for lining

Egg wash

Place the pate in a hot-water bath and cook in the oven until golden brown. Decrease the oven temperature to 250°F and continue to cook until the internal temperature reaches 160°F.

10.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature for 1 hour. Chill overnight.

8.4 COUNTRY PATE YIELD: Two 3-lb. terrines

5 |b. pork butt, combination of lean and large dice

Combine the pork, salt, curing salt, paté spice, thyme, brandy, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Allow to marinate for 1 day under refrigeration.

11/2 oz. salt 1 tsp. curing salt

Preheat a convection oven to 290°F.

1 tsp. paté spice

Split the mixture into two equal parts. Grind each half of the mixture separately through a coarse plate.

1/2 tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped 4 fl. oz. brandy 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine the calf liver, onion, garlic, and parsley in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth.

12 oz. calf liver

Add the eggs, flour, and milk and process until smooth.

5 oz. onion, finely chopped

2 tsp. garlic, finely chopped

Combine the liver mixture with half of the pork forcemeat. Return this mixture to the food processor and work until well combined.

11/2 oz. fresh parsley

Fold the remaining pork forcemeat into the liver mixture and mix well.

3 large eggs

Line a terrine mold with caul fat or thinly sliced fatback. Fill the mold with the paté mixture. Brush the top with egg wash.

5 oz. flour

Place the paté in a hot-water bath and cook in the oven until golden

1/2 c. milk

brown. Decrease the oven temperature to 250°F and continue to cook until the internal temperature reaches 160°F.

Caul fat or thinly sliced fatback, as needed for lining 10.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature for

1 hour. Chill overnight.

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181

8.5 EN CROUTE DOUGH VIEED: Sy Is Combine the flour, cornstarch, butter, and salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until well

3 Ib. all-purpose flour 8 oz. cornstarch

blended.

18 oz. butter

Add the eggs, maple syrup, and water and mix just until a dough

11/2 oz. fine salt

forms.

5 eggs

Vacuum seal the dough and allow to rest for 1 day before using.

2 fl. oz. maple syrup 10 fl. oz. cold water

8.6 COOKED DUCK LIVER MOUS

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~~

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YIELD: 4 Ib. 2 |b. pork fatback, small dice

Preheat a convection oven to 250°F.

1c. milk, or 1 c. cream plus 1 fl. oz. milk

Blanch the fatback in boiling water until it turns opaque.

22 oz. duck livers, cleaned and trimmed

Bring the milk to a boil and remove from the heat.

6 0z. onion, finely chopped, or 1 0z. onion powder 2 large eggs 11/2 oz. flour 1 oz. salt 1 Tbsp. brandy 1 tsp. paté spice

a INS Place the duck livers in the bowl of a food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the warm fatback and continue to process until it is finely chopped. Add the warm milk and process until incorporated. Add the remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Place the liver mixture in ramekins in a hot water bath and bake on the top rack of the oven until the internal temperature reaches 160°F. Note: This recipe works well with the addition of truffles and/or green

peppercorns.

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Chapter 8

8.7 CHICKEN GALANTINE bal Ip:

4

6 Ib. chicken meat, large dice (taken from 3 whole chickens with skins removed intact)

Combine Marnier the pork Marinate

2 Ib. pork butt, large dice

21/2 oz kosher salt

the salt, paté spice, nutmeg, shallots, nitrites, and Grand in a small mixing bowl. Place the chicken dark meat and butt in separate bowls and pour the marinade over each. overnight.

Cube the fatback and set aside.

/3 oz. paté spice

Place the duck livers in the bowl of a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the flour, eggs, and milk and process until smooth.

1 tsp ground nutmeg 2 shallots, minced

Grind the chicken meat through a coarse plate. Grind the fatback and pork through a medium plate.

2 tsp. nitrites

2 fl. oz. Grand Marnier 2 |b. fatback, small dice

Combine the liver mixture and the forcemeat in a large mixing bowl and mix well to combine.

9 oz. duck livers

Transfer half of the forcemeat mixture to the bowl of the food

processor and pulse to puree slightly. Add this pureed mixture back

1 oz. flour

to the forcemeat and mix well to combine.

2 large eggs

Assemble the galantine by laying a chicken skin (exterior side down) on top of several layers of cheesecloth. Place one-third of the forcemeat in a line toward one end of the chicken skin. Roll the skin over the top of the mixture and form a tight cylinder, rolling the skin over itself.

41/4 fl. oz. milk

Tie one end of the cylinder with a knot and, while holding the other end tight, roll the cylinder several times, forcing the mixture to the middle and into a perfectly round cylinder. Tie the second end with a butcher’s knot. Repeat for the other two galantines. Poach the galantines in a chicken stock—based court bouillon at 190°F until the internal temperature reaches 165°F.

10. Wil,

Remove the court bouillon from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. Chill overnight.

The next day, remove the galantines from the liquid and unwrap. Wrap the cylinders in plastic wrap and hold in the cooler until service.

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183

8.8 PATE EN CROUTE YIELD: Two 8-|b. terrines

11/2 Ib. lean pork, émincé

1.

Place the émincé of pork and duck in a bowl, and place the diced pork and duck in a second bowl.

2.

Combine the salt, curing salt, paté spice, cognac, and shallots in a small mixing bowl. Pour the marinade over the separate bowls of pork and duck. Marinate in the cooler overnight.

3.

Grind the diced pork and duck once through a fine plate.

11/2 Ib. duck, émincé

2 |b. pork butt, large dice 1 Ib. duck, large dice

2 oz. salt 1 tsp. curing salt 1 tsp. paté spice

Combine the livers, duck fat, milk, flour, and eggs in the bowl of a food processor and purée until well mixed.

1 oz.cognac

Add the ground pork-duck mixture and process until finely blended.

1 oz. shallots, minced

Transfer the processed mixture to a bowl and combine with the émincé of pork and duck.

7 oz. chicken or duck livers 7.

8 oz. duck fat 1/2 cup milk 11/2 oz. flour 2 eggs

Wrap the forcemeat in en crotite dough by forming the dough into a large 12- x-18 inch rectangle. Put half of the force meat into the middle of the rectangle and begin to fold over the dough, making sure there are no open seams; otherwise the fat will escape during the baking process. Transfer to a paper-lined baking sheet and bake at 325°F until the internal temperature reaches 160°F about 11/2 hours.

Variation Substitute pheasant, turkey, chicken, quail, rabbit, or other meat for the duck.

8.9 CHICKEN

LIVER TERRINE WITH

SHALLOTS

YIELD: One 2-pound terrine

4 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1.

Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Simmer over moderate heat, without stirring, until an amber caramel forms. Add the shallots and stir well to combine. Away from the flame, add the brandy and stir well to combine. Cover and simmer over low heat until the caramel has dissolved and the shallots are soft. Spread the mixture in a large nonreactive container and chill.

2.

Preheat a large sauté pan. Put 4 tablespoons butter in the pan, then add the chicken livers. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over high heat until the livers are firm on both sides. Turn once during this process. Transfer the livers and their liquid to a large nonreactive container and chill to room temperature.

2 Tbsp. water 10 shallots, peeled and chopped 5 Tbsp. brandy 3/4 |b. plus 4 Tbsp. butter, room temperature, large dice 2 Ib. chicken livers, cleaned

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3.

Combine the chilled caramel-shallot mixture and livers in the bowl of a

food processor and purée until a smooth paste has formed. With the machine running, add the remaining butter, one piece at a time, stopping periodically to scrape down the bowl, until the butter has been thoroughly incorporated.

184

Chapter 8

4.

Place the mixture in a terrine mold lined with plastic wrap and chill overnight.

5.

Unmold, slice, and serve.

8.10 RABBIT TERRINE WITH PRUNES, CHIVES, AND WALNUTS YIELD: One 3-Ib. terrine

2 Ib. rabbit leg meat

il.

Preheat the oven to 285°F.

8 oz. fatback

2D

Combine the rabbit and the fatback in a mixing bowl.

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

3.

Grind 80 percent of the meat through a medium plate and 20 percent through a fine plate.

4.

Place the meat mixture over a bowl of ice and fold in the salt, chives, white pepper, tarragon, cloves, molasses, and Calvados.

2 Tbsp. fresh chives, chopped

1 Tbsp. white pepper 1 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, chopped

1/2 tsp. ground cloves

2

1/2 tsp. molasses

6

1/2 c. Calvados

2 Tbsp. flour

i.

2 Tbsp. heavy cream

Fold the panada into the meat mixture. Mix well, making sure that the panada is evenly mixed into the forcemeat. Fold the diced ham, walnuts, and currants into the forcemeat mixture.

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the ham slices, eaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the liners over the terrine and cover

4 oz. ham, small dice

4 oz. walnuts, skins removed, toasted

the mold. Poach in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal temperature reaches 165°F.

21/2 oz. currants Sliced ham, as needed for lining

8.11 CHICKEN-APPLE

To make the panada, combine the flour and cream in a small bowl. Mix well.

9.

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room temperature for 1 hour.

10.

Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days.

ake

Unmold, slice, and serve.

TERRINE

YIELD:

One 2-Ib. terrine

2 lb. chicken meat, skin on, deboned, and cut into 1/2-inch by

1-inch strips

4 fl. oz. heavy cream 1 oz. bread flour

il. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2 Grind the chicken meat and skin together in batches using the medium plate of the meat grinder. Transfer to a nonreactive container set over an ice bath and hold below 40°F. Combine the cream and flour in a small bowl and mix well. Allow to

11/2 oz. apple or pear fondant

rest for 10 minutes to gelatinize the flour. Combine with the ground

2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

chicken mixture.

A

1 tsp. dried rubbed sage

Add the remaining ingredients. Knead by hand until sticky and tacky. Gently pan-fry a test patty in a neutral oil, then taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.

1/g tsp. ground ginger 1/g tsp. ground cinnamon

é

1/g tsp. ground nutmeg 4 fl. oz. water sweetened with 1 tsp. granulated sugar, or 4 fl. oz. pear juice or apple cider

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the ham slices, leaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the liners over the terrine and cover the mold.

i

When seasoned, place the forcemeat in the prepared terrine mold. Bake in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal temperature reaches 165°F.

8.

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room temperature for 1 hour.

Sliced ham, as needed for lining

9. Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days.

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185

8.12 ROASTED STUFFED CG UAIL IN GLACE DE POULET Peat”

YIELD: 20 servings

10 quail, deboned

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

2 |b. forcemeat

Stuff each quail with about 3 ounces forcemeat. Truss the quail to form a uniform shape.

1c. glace de poulet 1 oz. gelatin bloom

Sear the quail in a nonstick pan. Transfer to a roasting pan and roast until the internal temperature reaches 155°F. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Chill overnight. Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl. Place over a double boiler and cook until dissolved. Reduce the temperature to 100°F. Remove the quail from the cooler and untruss them. Slice each quail in half from head to tail. Brush a coat of glace on each quail half and allow it to set. Apply the second coat by pouring the glace over each quail half. The goal is for the quail to have a gelatin coating at least '/16 inch thick. Place quail in the cooler and hold for service.

8.13 ABSOLUT AND TARRAGON CURED SALMON YIELD: 16 servings

3 Tbsp. kosher salt

Combine the salt and sugar in a small bowl. Mix well.

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

Combine the lemon zest, vodka, pepper, and tarragon in another small bowl. Mix well.

2 tsp. lemon zest 3 Tbsp. Absolut vodka 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 c. fresh tarragon leaves 2 |b. salmon fillet, skin on, deboned

Place the salmon fillet on a large sheet of plastic wrap, skin side down. Rub the salmon generously with the salt-sugar mixture. Apply the vodka-herb mixture to the salmon and wrap it tightly in the plastic wrap. Place the salmon in a pan. Place another pan on top and put at least 3 pounds of weight in the top pan. Chill the salmon for 36 to 48 hours, turning once.

When the salmon is fully cured, rewrap it in clean plastic wrap and hold for service. To serve, make long thin slices across the grain.

186

Chapter 8

8.14 PORK RILLETTES YIELD: 5 Ib.

}

5 Ib. pork butt, large dice

Place the pork, mirepoix, and sachet d’épices in a heavy rondeau. Add stock to cover.

1 Ib. mirepoix, medium dice

Simmer, covered, on the stove top at 180°F, or braise in a 300°F oven, for 3 hours.

1 sachet d’épices 1 gal. chicken stock

Remove the pork from the braising liquid. Reserve the liquid and rendered fat.

2 tsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

Place the pork in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook. Mix on low speed to force the meat into strands rather than chunks. Adjust the consistency by adding some of the reserved liquid and rendered fat (the mixture should be moist, but not runny). Continue to shred the pork until its consistency is similar to pate.

2 Tbsp. mustard seeds 1 stick cinnamon 1 piece star anise

Place the rillette mixture into a crock or pot, top with some of the rendered fat, and hold in the cooler for service.

8.15 TENNESSEE

WHI ¢f)KEY | =m

YIELD: Sib:

21/2 ib. ground pork butt

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

8 oz. chicken livers 6 oz. shallots, fine brunoise, sweated and cooled

Grind all of the pork through a coarse plate. Next, grind 30 percent of the pork plus the livers through a fine plate.

2 Tbsp. fresh chervil, chopped

Combine the shallots, chervil, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, salt, and

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground cloves 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg 2 oz. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 fl. oz. heavy cream 2 eggs

21/2 oz. flour 1/2 c. pecans, chopped 1 fl. oz. Jack Daniels Tennessee whiskey Caul fat, as needed for lining

pepper in a small bowl. Knead this mixture into the forcemeat by hand. To make the panada, combine the cream, eggs, flour, pecans, and

whiskey in a large mixing bowl. Whisk until smooth. Add the ground meats and mix slowly for 1 minute. Then mix and stir aggressively for another minute or two, or until the mixture is soft and sticky to the touch. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the caul fat, leaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the liners over the terrine and cover the mold. Poach in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal temperature reaches 165°F. Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room

temperature for 1 hour. Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days. Unmold, slice, and serve.

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187

8.16 CUBANO TERRINE YIELD: One 3-lb. terrine

21/2 |b. ground pork butt

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

8 oz. chicken livers

Grind all of the pork through a coarse plate. Next, grind 30 percent of the pork plus the livers through a fine plate.

6 oz. white onions, fine brunoise, sweated and cooled

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground cloves 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground

2 oz. kosher salt 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine the onion, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, cumin, salt, pepper, garlic, olive oil, orange juice, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Knead this mixture into the forcemeat by hand.

Combine the cream, eggs, and flour in a large mixing bowl. Whisk until smooth. Add the cornichons and ham and mix well. Add the ground meats and mix slowly for 1 minute. Then mix and stir aggressively for another minute or two, or until the mixture is soft and sticky to the touch.

2 fl. oz. fresh lemon juice

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the caul fat, leaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the liners over the terrine and cover the mold. Poach in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal temperature reaches 165°F.

4 fl. oz. heavy cream

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room

1 tsp. garlic, minced 1 tsp. olive oil 2 fl. oz. fresh orange juice

emperature for 1 hour.

2 eggs

21/2 oz. flour 4 oz. cornichons, small dice

Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days. Unmold, slice, and serve.

4 oz. ham, small dice Caul fat, as needed for lining

8.17 SHELLFISH TERRINE YIELD: One 3-Ilb. terrine

11/2 Ib. scallops

Preheat the oven to 280°F.

1/2 Ib. shrimp, peeled and deveined

Combine the whole scallops, shrimp, and lobster with the egg yolks in the bowl of a food processor and purée until they form a smooth paste.

1/2 |b. lobster meat, claw and knuckle 2 egg yolks 3 egg whites 11/4 c. heavy cream 1/2 c. fresh tarragon, chopped

11/2 tsp. salt White pepper, to taste 1 tsp. Tabasco sauce 4 oz. smoked scallops, medium dice

4 oz. lobster meat, medium dice 4 oz. smoked shrimp, medium dice

With the machine running, add the egg whites, one at a time, making sure each one Is incorporated before adding the next. Slowly add the

cream, increasing to a steady drizzle. Stop periodically to scrape down the bowl. Place the fish mixture over a bowl of ice and gently fold in the tarragon, salt, white pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Add the diced scallops, lobster, and shrimp, folding gently to combine. Mix well by hand or by gently tumbling in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or dough hook.

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Working from end to end, pack the terrine mold with the forcemeat. Fold the

liner over the terrine and cover the mold. Poach in a hot-water bath in the oven until the internal temperature reaches 150°F. Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool to room

temperature for 1 hour. Weight the terrine with a 2-pound weight and allow it to cool overnight or for several days. Unmold, slice, and serve.

188

Chapter 8

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

As with most garde manger work, charcuterie has its roots in the realm of preserving prof-

its and reducing food cost by using by-products from other processes. A skilled garde manger chef can use charcuterie to turn waste into profitable products of outstanding qual-

ity and character. Charcuterie, when applied with solid technique, can transverse many styles of cuisine and ethnicity, even into the realm of vegetarianism and healthy nutritious cuisines. Royal decree no longer limits charcuterie to the processing of pork; all meats, fruits, veg-

etables, and farinaceous products are accessible and available for garde manger chefs to incorporate into their repertoires. Charcuterie is an area of food production that allows for the highest levels of creativity, design, artistic ability, and craftsmanship. The raw products can be

manipulated in the same way that pastry chefs manipulate chocolate, and garde manger chefs can produce desirable, edible art.

For centuries, charcuterie has been a derivative

With the appeal of vegetarianism on the rise, dis-

process of the fabrication of meat.

cuss how a chef might adopt charcuterie prepara-

In your own

words, define charcuterie for modern and future food service operations, being sure to discuss the importance of profit, production, and client appeal. Why do sanitation, equipment maintenance, and temperature play such a critical role in the safety

JSSIONof charcuterie List

and

forcemeats.

food products?

define

the

four

tions into that style of cuisine. How do patés and terrines differ from one another? What does the term forchon imply?

With nutrition and healthy eating having greater importance

common

types

of

to customers,

clude charcuterie

how can

a chef in-

in a healthy, well-balanced

menu?

DISCU FOR QUESTIONS

Contemporary Charcuterie

189

SED

ym

(ia

8

es ese Bee

Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre irst’ impressions

are critical. Amuse-bouche,

plated appetizers,

and hors

d'oeuvre are commonly the first interactions guests have with the food served during ameal or reception; as a result, these foods need to be made with pre-

cision, attention to detail, and a foreshadowing of the menu that follows to prepare the diner for what iis ahead.

caviar.

amuse-bouch appetizer

beliga” brochett

:

udité. tp

|

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FIRST IMPRESSIONS Amuse-bouche and plated appetizers differ from hors d’oeuvre only in the style and manner of their service. Most often hors d’oeuvre (French for “outside the menu”) are served as miniature premeals, not represented in the menu, whereas amuse-bouche and plated appetizers are figured into the service by the chef. All the same, the chef will never get a second chance

to make a good first impression.

AMUSE-BOUCHE Generally regarded as the territory of elite restaurants, amuse-bouche originated as a gracious

welcome gift or thank-you from the chef to the diner, a little surprise to showcase the kitchen’s abilities and the meal to come. More and more amuse-bouche are showing up in a variety of

restaurants. These miniature dishes are sometimes signature preparations of the chef. For example, consider the salmon cone of Thomas Keller of the French Laundry; this amuse-bouche has become synonymous with the chef and the restaurant. As a guideline, the amuse-bouche should be no more than a few bites of food designed to pique a diner’s interest and to whet his or her appetite for the meal ahead. The food Items

can be planned separately or can make use of the kitchen’s existing food resources.

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Assortment of Satays Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

199

9.1 CHICKEN LIVER CROSTINI YIELD: 10 appetizers

6 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion, minced

1 Ib. chicken livers 2 Tbsp. capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and chopped

1c. sherry Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 baguette, sliced into 10 pieces on the bias, toasted, and rubbed

with a garlic clove

Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large nonreactive sauté pan. Sweat the onion in the olive oil for about 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Add the chicken livers, capers, and anchovies and cook for another 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and reduce for about 15 minutes over medium-high heat, until only 4 or 5 tablespoons of liquid remain.

Remove from the heat and place the liver mixture in the container of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is a coarse purée. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed. Spread a liberal amount of the liver mixture on each baguette slice. Hold for service.

9.2 CHICKEN WINGS WITH TRUFFLE DEMI-GLACE VANE): 10 appetizers

4 Tbsp. flour 4 tsp. salt

40 chicken drumettes 4 Tbsp. jus de poulet or veal demi-glace 2 Tbsp. truffle oil 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped

1 tsp. orange juice 1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

Combine the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Mix well. Add the chicken drumettes and toss to coat. Fry the chicken drumettes in a 350°F fryer until golden brown and cooked through. While the drumettes are frying, combine the jus de poulet, truffle oil, thyme, orange juice, and vinegar in a medium sauté pan. Bring to a boil and reduce slightly. When the drumettes are cooked, drain them on paper towels for a few seconds. Toss the drumettes in the jus de poulet sauce to coat.

9.3 GRILLED SHRIMP WITH COCKTAIL SAUCE GELEE VA EIDE 10 appetizers

5 c. V-8 juice

Combine the V-8 juice, horseradish, chives, chili sauce, gelatin

5 Tbsp. horseradish

bloom, vodka, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Set the bowl over a double boiler and heat until melted and homogenous. Mix gently.

5 Tbsp. fresh chives, chopped

1c. chili sauce 1/2 c. gelatin bloom

Remove the gelée mixture from the heat and pour into a 6 x 6 square pan lined with plastic wrap. Allow the gelée to set overnight.

1/2 c. vodka

Unmold the gelée and cut it into 1-inch cubes.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

40 shrimp, 16-20 count, peeled

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Toss the shrimp in the olive oil and grill the first side until well caramelized, then flip and cook the second side just through.

10 large radicchio leaves

Remove from the heat and cool at room temperature on a sheet tray.

Fresh herb blossoms, as needed for garnish

Present the shrimp on a plate with a radicchio cup filled with a cube or two of the gelée, fresh herb blossoms, and a grind of freshly ground black pepper.

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9.4 DEVILED EGGS YIELD:

/

10 portions

10 eggs, hard-cooked, peeled, and halved

Divide the egg whites and yolks into separate bowls. Wash the whites and blot dry with a towel.

1/2 ¢. mayonnaise

Add the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, vinegar, and salt to the egg yolks. Mash well to combine.

4 Tbsp. sour cream 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp. cider vinegar

Pass the mixture through a tamis and cool.

Salt, to taste

With a large star tip and pastry bag, pipe the yolk mixture into each egg white half.

Sunburst orange, as needed for garnish

Arrange the eggs on a platter and garnish.

Fresh rosemary sprigs, as needed for garnish

Fresh thyme sprigs, as needed for garnish

9.5 ANGELS ON HORSEBACK YIELD: 10 portions

10 select oysters

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

10 slices bacon, cooked to medium crispness

Wrap each oyster with a slice of bacon. Place on a parchment-lined sheet tray, seam side down.

10 slices brioche, 1/4 inch thick, toasted slightly and halved diagonally

Roast the bacon-wrapped oysters until the bacon is crisp and brown.

1 c. créme fraiche

Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly at room temperature.

20 fresh chives, 1/2 inch long, cut on the bias

Place each oyster on a slice of brioche toast.

Cl oy es = Drizzle the oysters with creme fraiche and top with the chives.

9.6 BOURSIN-STUFFED

BAC

N-WRAPPED

DATES

YIELD: 10 portions

6 Tbsp. Boursin cheese

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

4 Tbsp. cream cheese

Combine the cheeses in a large mixing bowl. Mix well until homogenous and soft.

10 dates, pitted and split

Pipe a line of cheese into each date half and place a smoked almond into the cheese. Cover with the other date half and then wrap each

10 smoked almonds 10 slices bacon, 1 inch

2 inches, lightly cooked

date with a slice of bacon.

Lentils, as needed for garnish Decorative greens, as needed for garnish

Roast until the bacon is cooked and has a golden-brown color.

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Place the dates on a heated dinner plate and garnish.

Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

201

9.7 CARNE SALATA WITH CREME FRAICHE YIELD: 10 portions

5 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Heat 4 Tbsp. of the olive oil over medium-high heat and sear the

3 Ib. carne salata, or prosciutto

carne salata on all sides. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

Slice the carne salata very thinly across the grain into even slices 1/g inch thick.

4 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped 4 Tbsp. fresh basil, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1c. créme fraiche 1 c. marinated olives 1 c. caperberries

Arrange the slices on a platter and drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with the rosemary, basil, salt, and pepper. Drizzle the creme fraiche across the platter. Place a pile of olives and a pile of caperberries in the center of the plate and garnish with the cheese and a few grinds of freshly ground black pepper.

1/2 |b. Parmesan cheese, shaved

9.8 EGGS A LA FRANCAISE WITH SPINACH, SMOKED SALMON, AND CHORON

SAUCE

VAIN: 10 portions

12 eggs, beaten 1/2 c. heavy cream 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, chopped 1 tsp. shallot, minced

1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 3 egg yolks 2 fl. oz. white vermouth 1 c. butter, melted

10 vol-au-vent shells 1 c. spinach, blanched, shocked, and pressed

20 slices smoked salmon 1/2 c. capers, drained, crisped, and blotted

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Place the beaten eggs and the cream in a bowl that fits snugly over a bain marie at a gentle simmer. Cook, whisking constantly, until the eggs are set and creamy.

Begin the Choron reduction by combining the tomato paste, tarragon, Shallot, and vinegar in a nonreactive sauté pan. Reduce au sec over medium heat. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. To make the hollandaise sauce, heat the egg yolks and vermouth, whisking constantly until they reach the ribbon stage or, if using a thermometer, 140°F. Remove from the heat and add the butter, drop by drop at first, then building to a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Add the Choron reduction to the hollandaise sauce.

Assemble the appetizers by layering the ingredients in the vol-au-vent shells in the following order: spinach, 2 salmon slices, cooked egg, and Choron sauce. Garnish with a sprinkle of capers sautéed until crisp.

9.9 PROVENCAL ROASTED TOMATOES WITH ITALIAN SAUSAGE YIELD: 25 portions 25 Roma tomatoes, tops and bottoms removed, halved, and seeded

Salt and freshly ground biack pepper, to taste

2 c. pesto 2 Ib. bulk Italian sausage, divided into 11/2-ounce balls 1c. extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Season the tomato halves with salt and pepper. Place 1 teaspoon pesto, a sausage ball, and a drizzle of olive oil inside each tomato half.

Combine the panko, oregano, salad oil, and salt and pepper to taste in a large mixing bowl. Mix well. Top each tomato half with some of the crumb topping. Place on a parchment-lined sheet tray and roast until golden brown.

4 c. panko or fresh bread crumbs Fresh oregano, chopped, to taste

Arrange the tomatoes on a platter and serve.

1c. salad oil

9.10 SALAD MIGNON ON ENDIVE LEAVES WITH DILL YIEED: 50 portions 5 ib. rock shrimp, blanched, shocked, and drained #10 can artichoke hearts, rinsed, chopped, and blotted 2 c. celery, brunoise

Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.

1c. red onion, brunoise

Place 2 ounces of shrimp mignon on each endive leaf and garnish with a dill sprig.

11/2 c. mayonnaise 4 c. heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

1/2 c. Dijon mustard

Combine the shrimp, artichoke hearts, celery, onion, mayonnaise, cream, mustard, salt, pepper, and parsley in a large mixing bowl. Mix well.

id

Arrange the endive leaves on platters with carved shrimp rutabagas and fresh parsley sprigs.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1c. fresh parsley, finely chopped 50 Belgian endive leaves 50 sprigs fresh dill Carved shrimp rutabagas, as needed for garnish

Fresh parsley sprigs, as needed for garnish

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9.11 VEGETABLE CRUDITES VIED

25 portions

5 lb. carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced on the bias 1/4 inch thick

1.

Arrange the vegetables on a platter, alternating colors to create visual balance and appeal. Serve the romesco sauce in a bowl on the side.

2 heads broccoli, cut into florets, blanched, shocked, and drained

4 red bell peppers, julienne 3 green bell peppers, julienne 1 bunch celery, trimmed, washed, and cut into 1/2-inch x 3-inch sticks 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets, blanched, shocked, and drained

2 English cucumbers, 1/2-inch rondelles 2 |b. asparagus, blanched, shocked, and drained

2 c. romesco sauce

9.12 MARINATED OLIVES YIELD: ik @]t

3 c. Kalamata olives, rinsed

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a large nonreactive bowl. Mix well.

3 c. picholine olives, rinsed

2.

4 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Allow the flavors to mature at room temperature for at least

30 minutes before service.

2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, toasted

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

9.13 OLD BAY CHIPS ALEVEDE 10 portions

Vegetable oil, as needed for frying 4 |b. Idaho russet potatoes, washed and sliced 1/16 inch thick

Variations :

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Truffle Chips: Omit the Old Bay seasoning and drizzle 3 table-

:

: tanita

spoons truffle oil over the chips after the second frying.

ibepbel 1/4 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

Thyme Chips: Substitute 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme and 2 tablespoons fleur de sel for the Old Bay seasoning.

1. Heat the vegetable oil to 325°F. Blanch the potato slices in the oil until tender, but not browned or crisp. Remove the chips from the

Prosciutto Sage Chips: Omit the Old Bay seasoning and sprinkle the chips with 6 Tbsp. prosciutto powder and 1 Tbsp. minced

oil and drain on paper towels. 2.

Heat fresh vegetable oil to 375°F. Place the blanched potatoes in the oil and deep-fry until browned and crisp. Remove the chips from the oil and drain on paper towels.

3.

Combine the salt, white pepper, and Old Bay seasoning in a small bowl. Mix well. Season the chips with the seasoning mixture and toss well to coat.

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fresh sage after the second frying.

9.14 STEAK TARTARE WITH CROUSTADE YIELD: 10 portions

2 Ib. raw beef tenderloin, minced and chilled

1.

Place the minced beef in a bowl set over an ice bath. Add the Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix well.

3 tsp. Tabasco sauce

2.

Allow the mixture to rest for 5 minutes to mature the flavors.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3.

Form the tartare into patties and divide the patties among 10 plates. Place a raw egg yolk in the center of each patty.

4.

Garnish each plate by decoratively placing the hard-cooked egg whites, hard-cooked egg yolks, chives, capers, cornichons, and red onion around each tartare patty.

5.

Serve with a plate of crostini and top with a few grinds of freshly ground black pepper.

3 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

10 raw egg yolks, chilled 5 eggs, hard cooked, peeled, yolk and white separated, and mashed

5 Tbsp. fresh chives, chopped 5 Tbsp. capers, chopped 5 Tbsp. cornichons, chopped

5 Tbsp. red onion, minced 40 baguette slices, toasted and rubbed with a garlic clove

9.15 SMOKED

SALMON

BARQUETTES

YIELD: 25 portions

2 c. all-purpose flour

1.

Cut together the flour, butter, and salt in a bowl (or pulse in the container of a food processor) until the dough resembles cornmeal.

2.

Add 4 tablespoons ice water and gently stir with a fork (or pulse, if using a food processor) until incorporated. If the dough doesn’t hold together when squeezed, add an additional tablespoon of water.

3.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead two or three times to disperse the fat evenly. Gather the dough and divide It in half. Wrap each half in plastic wrap and rest the dough for 1 hour

6 oz. unsalted butter, cut into !/2-inch cubes

1 tsp. salt 1/2 c. red onion, brunoise

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

im

31/2 oz. smoked salmon, brunoise 1 Tbsp. créme fraiche

or more.

1/2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. lemon zest

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 oz. fresh dill, chopped

4.

Working with half of the dough at a time, roll it out into a large square.

5.

Arrange barquette molds on a work surface and drape the rolled-out dough over molds. Roll a lightly floured rolling pin over the molds to cut the dough, then lightly press the dough into the molds. Repeat with the remaining dough.

6.

Dock the shells several times with a fork. Place the shells in the cooler for 1 hour to allow the dough to rest and firm up.

2 oz. salmon roe (caviar)

7.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

8.

Arrange the shells in a pan and cover with parchment. Weight each shell with pie weights on top of the parchment.

9.

Bake the shells for 15 minutes. Remove the parchment and weights and bake the shells until golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes more.

10.

Cool the shells on a rack for 15 minutes, then remove from the

11.

Combine the onion, lemon juice, salmon, creme fraiche, olive oil, lemon zest, pepper, and dill in a nonreactive bowl. Mix well.

12.

Fill the pastry shells with the salmon mixture and top with caviar.

molds and cool completely.

Amuse-Bouche,

Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

205

3 Tbsp. peanut or canola oil 11/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Ib. whole natural almonds, with skin Coarse kosher salt, as needed

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the red pepper flakes and black pepper and stir to distribute evenly. Add the almonds and stir to coat them with the oil-pepper mixture. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 8 minutes, until the almonds begin to darken s ight ly and the mixture is fragrant. Transfer the mixture

to a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle generously

with the sal . Cool completely.

This recipe can be made 2 days before service. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

YIELD: 8 tostadas

8 corn tortillas (6-inch diameter)

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

3 Tbsp. canola oil

Cut 2 rounds from each tortilla with a 3-inch cookie cutter. Dividing 1 tablespoon canola oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt among all of the rounds, brush both sides of each tortilla round with oil and sprinkle with salt.

3/4 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. chipotle pepper, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. tequila 1/2 tsp. adobo sauce 1/2 tsp. ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar 1 lb. sushi-grade tuna, cut into 1/4-inch cubes 1 avocado, cut into 1/4-inch cubes

3 scallions (green part only), thinly sliced

3 Tbsp. hulled pumpkin seeds

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Place the rounds in one layer on cookie sheets. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the rounds are crisp and the edges are golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Whisk the remai ining canola oil and salt with the chipotle pepper, ime juice, equi la, adobo sauce, cumin, and sugar in a small bowl. Combine th e tu na, avocado, two-thirds of the scallions, and 2 table-

spoons pumpki n seeds in another bowl. Pour the dressing over the una mixtur € an os stir gently to coat, trying not to break up the avocado. Spoon the tuna mixture onto the tortilla rounds. Top with the remaining s callions and pumpkin seeds.

9.18 GOUGERES YIELD: 25 gougeéres 7 Tbsp. butter, cut into pieces

If Preheat the oven to 400°F.

3/4 tsp. salt

2

Heat the butter, salt, and 1 cup water in a heavy-bottomed saucepot

11/4 c. sifted all-purpose flour

just to a boil.

5 large eggs

Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the pot.

1c. Swiss cheese i

Beat for 1 minute more to cool the dough. Add the eggs, one at a time, to the dough, beating after each addition, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding another egg. Fold in the cheese and mix well.

SOP Drop or pipe into 1" stars onto greased baking sheets. Bake for 20 to esr 25 minutes, until the gougeres have a cracked appearance, with a golden hue to the exterior.

9.19 GRILLED STEAK SALAD WITH WATERCRESS,

ARUGULA, AND ONION BRULEE YIELD: 25 portions 4 |b. London broil steak, seared, cooked to medium rare, and rested

Slice the steak on the bias 1/4 inch thick. Arrange the slices on a platter, bordering the edge. Season with salt and pepper.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In the center of the platter arrange the watercress, arugula, and onion wedges.

4 bunches watercress 4 c. baby arugula 3 red onions, peeled, halved, roasted or grilled, and cut into wedges

Combine the vinegar, olive oil, rosemary, mustard, and orange juice in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk well. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the greens and season with salt and pepper.

1/2 c. red wine vinegar

11/2 c. olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped

2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. orange juice

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207

9.20 ROASTED PEARS WITH FRISEE, WALNUTS, GRAPES, AND BLUE CHEESE YIELD: 25 portions

25 Seckel pears, halved and cored

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

4 heads frisée lettuce, trimmed, washed, and cut into l-inch lengths

Roast the pears, cut side up, until golden in color. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

25 red grapes, washed and halved

Create 25 mini bundles of frisée and insert one in the cored center of each pear. Top the frisée with 2 grape halves and then a walnut half. Sprinkle blue cheese on top and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil.

25 walnut halves, toasted

2 c. blue cheese crumbles Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

Arrange the pear halves on a platter and garnish with lemon leaves and a pear bundle with pine boughs.

Lemon leaves, as needed for garnish

Pear bundle with pine boughs, as needed for garnish

9.21 CRAB AND AVOCADO SALAD YIELD: 16 portions

8 medium avocados, seeded, peeled, and diced

1 Ib. premium lump crabmeat 4 Tbsp. red onion, finely diced 4 Tbsp. tomato, seeded and finely diced

2 Tbsp. jalapeno pepper, finely diced 1/2 c. fresh lime juice 1c. fresh cilantro, chopped 1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 8 medium scallions, cut thinly on an extreme bias, soaked in ice water to curl

1c. fresh cilantro leaves 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 c. barbecue sauce Tortilla chips

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Combine the avocados, crabmeat, onion, tomato, jalapeno, lime juice, chopped cilantro, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Mix gently. Set aside to allow the flavors to mature. Combine the curled scallions and whole cilantro leaves in a separate bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil and mix gently.

Using a pastry brush, paint a straight line on the plate with barbecue sauce. Place a cylindrical mold at the dense end of the sauce line. Fill the mold with the crab and avocado salad until it is full. With the back or side of a knife, scrape the top of the mold flat. Remove the mold by lifting it carefully off the salad. Place the scallion-cilantro mixture on top of the salad and arrange a small pile of tortilla chips on the other end of the plate.

9.22 GAZPACHO WITH SEARED SEA SCALLOPS, ROASTED JALAPENO, CORN, LIME SOUR CREAM, AND HAM POWDER YIELD: 16 portions

3 lb. tomatoes, seeded, cored, and chopped

Combine the tomatoes, cucumber, bell peppers, chopped onion, V-8 juice, 2 tablespoons olive oil, crackers, 2 teaspoons cumin,

1 medium seedless cucumber, peeled

cinnamon, and orange juice in the container of a large food processor or blender. Purée until very smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.

1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and chopped

1 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and chopped 1/2 medium white onion, chopped

Transfer the mixture to a nonreactive bowl, cover, and store in the

2 c. V-8 juice

cooler until needed.

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat.

6 oz. butter crackers

Grill the jalapefos, corn, and onion until well charred and soft. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

3 tsp. ground cumin

Skin and seed the jalapefhos and chop the flesh. Use a sharp knife to remove the charred corn kernels from the cob. Chop the onion.

2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1c. freshly squeezed orange juice 4 medium jalapeno peppers

Combine the jalapenos, corn kernels, onion, sour cream, cilantro, lime juice, the remaining cumin, and 1 tablespoon salt in a mixing bowl. Mix well. Hold in the cooler until ready to use.

1 ear sweet corn, husk removed

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

1/2 medium white onion

Place the ham slices on a nonstick baking sheet or a sheet of parchment paper sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Drizzle each slice with some lemon juice and a sprinkle of salt.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/2 c. low-fat sour cream 1/2 c. fresh cilantro, chopped

1/4 c. fresh lime juice

Bake the ham slices until they are dried and crisp.

1 Tbsp. salt

Remove from the oven and allow the slices to cool to room temperature.

4 slices serrano or prosciutto ham, paper thin

Place the ham slices in a ziplock bag and crush them into a fine powder.

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice Pinch of kosher or sea salt

Heat the remaining olive oil in a small sauté pan. Add the scallops and sear until golden brown on one side, about 2 minutes; flip and cook 1 minute more.

16 large sea scaliops 13:

Assemble by placing gazpacho in the base of a wine glass, topping with seared scallops, cream, and ham powder.

9.23 GRILLED SHRIMP AND SCALLOP AIDELLE YIELD: 16 portions 1 Ib. shrimp, 16-20 count, peeled, deveined, and grilled 1 Ib. scallops, 20-30 count, cleaned and grilled

Combine the shrimp, scallops, lemon juice, and olive oil in a large mixing bowl. Mix well.

1/2 c. olive oil

Divide the radicchio and lettuce leaves among 16 dishes, forming a cup within each dish. Divide the shrimp salad among the radicchiolettuce Cups.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Garnish with the parsley and lemon wedges.

1c. fresh lemon juice

16 radicchio leaves 16 butter lettuce leaves 1 c. fresh parsley, chopped

Lemon wedges, as needed for garnish Amuse-Bouche, Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

209

9.24 CUCUMBER

VELOUTE

ViEED:

16 portions

Combine the cucumbers, yogurt, lemon juice, curry powder, Tabasco sauce, 1/2 cup sour cream, and 1/2 cup water in the container of a blender. Purée until smooth.

2 Ib. English cucumbers

11/2 c. plain yogurt 1/2 c. water

Pour the liquid through a fine sieve and push it through, leaving behind any solid matter.

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 tsp. curry powder

Whisk the heavy cream in a small bowl until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the cucumber liquid until just combined.

2 dashes Tabasco sauce 1/2 c. low-fat sour cream, plus more for garnish (optional)

1/2 c. heavy cream 1 lb. premium lump crabmeat

Divide the soup among 16 dishes and garnish each portion with 1 ounce crabmeat, a dill sprig, and, if you like, an additional dollop of sour cream.

16 sprigs fresh dill

9.25 SMOKED SALMON AND BRIE PANINI YIELD: 16 portions

1 Ib. smoked salmon scraps, separated into pieces

Preheat a panini press to medium heat.

1 lb. Brie cheese, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick planks

Assemble the panini by placing the salmon, cheese, sour cream, and onion between the split focaccia loaves. Season the filling with salt and pepper If desired.

1 c. sour cream 1 c. red onion, julienne

Brush the focaccia with a small amount of olive oil.

1/2 sheet focaccia, sliced in half

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Place on the panini press and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and releasing from the sides of the focaccia. Slice the focaccia on the diagonal into mini sandwiches and serve.

CHAPTER

SUMMARY

This chapter highlights the importance of making a good first impression. Often not enough attention is paid to the role of the first course, as chefs spend too much time focused on the role of the entrée in the menu.

The trend toward appetizer-only menus and establishments is increasing. This rising popularity is fed by consumers wanting smaller portions of a larger variety of foods, the desire for the chef to highlight his or her creativity, and the wow factor of such presentations. Hors d’oeuvre are most commonly served as part of a festive event or a traditional holiday

or celebratory function.

Because hors d’oeuvre are outside the menu, more creativity is involved. They are also a great resource in controlling food costs, as a little bit of an ingredient can go a long way.

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Chapter 9

nat

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Describe the role of amuse-bouche in a traditional

on hal

a la carte restaurant setting.

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What is caviar?

on od paca

Which is the best grade of caviar: osetra, sevruga,

or beluga?

4.

Create a six-item hors d’oeuvre menu that high-

lights the current season.

5.

What are some challenges that an hors d’oeuvre buffet may face? Can you think of any solutions to

alleviate these concerns?

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Amuse-Bouche,

Plated Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvre

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WHAT IS CHEESE? Cheese in its most basic form is milk that has been coagulated to form curds, then drained of a certain amount of its whey (the less whey that remains after straining, the more stable the cheese) and either ripened or served fresh. Cow, goat, and sheep milk are the three most common types of milk used for cheese production.

THE CHEESE-MAKING

PROCESS

Cheese making is a series of steps that enhance the natural coagulation and fermentation of milk, providing a greater degree of control, consistency, and predictability. In the marketplace today, cheeses are made using one of three processes: the large-scale commercial cheese-making process, which often relies on contract milk supply and volume production; an artesian process, which uses farm-produced or contract milk; or farmstead

cheese, which uses only farm-produced milk. Regardless of the volume and scale of production, all the processes rely on the same basic steps:

Coagulation of milk Curd promotion

Curd formation Separating the curd and whey

Salting the curd Molding the curd Pressing the cheese

Oh AS COR OS aa Ripening the cheese

CLASSIFICATION OF CHEESES

Selmes Kindersley Dorling © Treloar Debi Jules and

Cheese classification is a perpetual dialogue; nothing is written in stone Cottage Cheese

or accepted as universal when classifying a product that spans continents

and cultures. Common guidelines exist, yet the criteria used to classify cheeses can be challenged, and it is impossible to strictly adhere to any system. For the most part, though, cheeses can fall into five basic categories based on texture and style, with ranges in each category: fresh, soft-ripened, firm cheese, hardripened, blue-veined, and stretched-curd (pasta filata) cheeses.

Fresh Cheeses Fresh cheeses are uncooked and generally require no ripening after the curd is Mersh Neil Kindersley Dorling © separated

from the whey. They have a soft texture and are generally creamy and mild in flavor. Fresh cheeses are perishable, given their high moisture content.

Soft-Ripened Cheeses Soft-ripened cheeses are known for their soft rind and malleable texture. These cheeses are molded and ripened for a short period of time. The ripening occurs from the inside out in these cheeses, given that they are generally thinner and flatter than most ripened cheeses.

Brie 214

Chapter 10

y $s

Soe

Kindersley Vg

Smith Simon Dorlir ©

An

Assortment

of

Cheeses

Three Hard Cheeses:

Emmental,

Parmesan, and Cheddar

» Firm Cheeses Firm cheeses are common to America. The texture is slightly firm, =

easily sliceable with a knife, and easy to melt. These cheeses are

8 common

accompaniments to sandwiches,

both hot and cold.

Hard Cheeses °

Hard-ripened cheeses are some of the most pungent and flavorful cheeses. The lack of moisture and the length of the ripening and aging process give them a hard texture that makes slicing very difficult. Hard cheeses generally fracture when separating, making them suitable for grating.

Blue-Veined Cheeses Blue-veined cheeses are pungent and flavorful. The blue spots and veins are bacteria that form on the outside and inside of the cheese,

promoting a smaller curd size and easy separation.

Stretched-Curd Cheeses vy 7

DCU 1

cm mgon WESTCOTTS Stilton

2

TTC

er

ee

pep

Flexible Stointess Stent Ruler wugmusa—

Stretched-curd cheeses are made by stretching curds of cheese in

warm salted water and then re-forming them into a solid mass. Also known as pasta filata,

these cheeses are easy to make and can be readily personalized with various ingredients and flavor combinations in restaurant kitchens.

STORING CHEESE Cheese should be stored in its natural state until ready to use. Cheese storage focuses on two principles: protecting it from exposure to air and retaining moisture. When cheese is exposed to air, it is susceptible to odors and flavors from neighboring foods. Moisture retention prevents the cheese from drying out; because refrigeration is based on evaporation, the chef must Cheeses

215

FIGURE 10. :

ret

eer! ed eet hae! pesateegeeeser MN

2.

-

Describe the process of takeaway carving; how

What are some strategies that a chef can use to

does it differ from modeling?

minimize these concerns?

What are the seven steps of carving? What makes ice the most difficult and challenging

medium for chefs to use in making artistic pieces?

NX

SH DISCUSSION

286

Chapter 15

4.

Design a template for a carving or modeled piece and include the steps that would be used to create the end sculpture.

Glossary a lino tapas cured

marinated-style

tapas;

may

include

pickled and

vegetables with a simple olive oil and vinegar dressing,

blanching

finished production can be more efficient. Most blanched items are

olives, or small fish such as anchovies or sardines

reheated

Adria, Ferran

blooming

a Spanish chef famous for molecular cooking tech-

niques and the element of surprise in his menus and dishes allumette

a matchstick

cut measuring

% inch

x

% inch

parcooking a food in boiling water or hot fat so that

the process of hydrating powdered or sheet gelatin

blue-veined cheese x

2 inches

pungent and flavorful cheese; the blue spots

and veins are bacteria that form on the outside and inside of the cheese, promoting a smaller curd size and easy separation

amuse-bouche

a gracious welcome

gift or thank-you from the

chef to the diner, presented at the beginning of the meal; a little sur-

bread

the vessel or container of a sandwich; the component that

holds the sandwich together

prise to showcase the kitchen’s abilities and the meal to come

brigade system

antipasto

a selection of platter-style appetizers

items within groups of people, with several skill levels in each spe-

appetizer

commonly

the first course

inside the menu;

usually

asystem used to organize the production of food

cialized area

meant to enhance the appetite for the entrée

brochettes

armature

roasted; commonly

aspic

the skeletal support structure for a sculpture

a gelatinous liquid that forms a solid when cooled

aspic gelee

savory jelly; aspic gelée is commonly used in char-

skewered

brunoise

canapés, platters, molds, and chilled roasted meats and fish

buffet

bacalhao dishes baiance

grilled

or

a knot used commonly in sausage casing work

a grand display of prepared and raw foods designed to give and

variety of menu

choices;

typically associated with brunch and celebratory events canape

an element of design that can be manipulated to achieve

either

hot as an hors d’oeuvre in classical

the dining guest an assortment

dried, salted cod typical in many Spanish and Brazilian

vegetables

food cut into cubes measuring %inch x %inch x %inch

bubble knot

anonbalanced presentation of food

served

and

French cuisine

cuterie, yet it can also be used to coat a variety of hors d’oeuvre,

asymmetrical

meats

a type of sandwich that is most often served as an amuse-

bouche or as a component of an hors d’oeuvre menu

a variety of results

Caréme, Marie-Antoine

basic grind

malize, and streamline the production, delivery, and consumption

amethod of preparing sausage that produces a force-

of the cuisine of France

meat with a rustic texture batonnet

a

matchstick-shaped

a French chef who began to codify, for-

cut

measuring

approximately

’ inch X ’inch X 2 inches

casing

a container

or vessel

for sausage.

Casings

promote

moisture retention, shaping, and presentation

batter a liquid flour mixture used to coat foods before deep-frying

Catherine de Medici

bias

a cut used primarily in Asian cuisines; similar to a rondelle except that the knife is applied to the food at a severe angle to

to King Henry

produce more surface area

these cooks brought with them in techniques, equipment, and

binding agent

ingredients

acomponent in forcemeat preparation that provides

and

cooks.

The

aqueen of France who, upon her marriage

Il, brought with her an army French

studied

adhesion; also, an ingredient that promotes the retention of fats,

caul fat

flavor, and shape

appearance and ease of working

and

adopted

of Italian chefs much

of what

the fat that surrounds the stomach, known for its lacelike

287

caviar

adelicacy made from brining the roe of sturgeon and other

fish; one of the most expensive and indulgent foods a chef a can

work with

centerpiece

a large display that adds visual appeal to a buffet or

table of food

asauce that is added to a food in order to improve or condiment fine-tune its flavor confit a preservation process that cooks and stores food in fat an element of design that can be manipulated to achieve

contrast

a variety of results

ham, sausages, and dried meats

convenience foods foods that are processed in some manner that eliminates the need for intensive labor or skill

chareuterie

coulis

chacina tapas

tapas made from pork products, including sliced

classically meant to be savory preparations of pork

products from scraps and by-products of fabrication techniques;

a thin purée, usually made from fresh or cooked fruit and vegetables; classically, coulis were purées of meats, fish, and shell-

charcuterie today includes many varieties, preservation methods,

fish thinned with stock and cream

and ingredient choices that are broader than just pork

country-style forcemeat

chargue

portion ofthe meat is in the form of liver (pork and veal are most com-

a Brazilian dish composed of salt-water-basted sun-dried

forcemeat whose dominant meat is pork; a

beef strips, similar to Native American-style jerky or pemmican

mon). Country forcemeats are generally ground on a larger, coarser

cheese cart

plate; sometimes they are coarsely chopped in a food processor

a vehicle commonly used to store and serve a variety

of cheeses in a formal dining setting

crudités

chiffonade

curd

a bundle of coagulated proteins formed during cheese making

cured

sausage

paper-thin shreds of food that have been cut with a knife

chili powder

a mixture of powdered onions, garlic, cumin, chilies,

sausage

made

with

raw

meat

that has

been

treated with a curing agent to hinder bacterial growth before and

Mexican oregano, cayenne pepper, black pepper, and paprika chirashi sushi

raw vegetables or fruits served as hors d’oeuvre

the most artistic form of sushi, in which sushi rice

during the air-drying process

is presented in a bowl or platter for service; the same ingredients

curing agent

acolor-enhancing agent that also guards against the

used for nigirl or norimaki can be used for chirashi sushi, but the

growth of certain harmful microbes during long curing, drying, and

assembly is more layered and platterlike

fermenting processes

chopping

curing salt

a technique used to produce pieces of similar size but

not uniform dimensions chorizo

amixture composed of purified salt, nitrites or nitrates,

and pink coloring (to make it readily distinguishable from ordinary

a Mexican sausage made from pork; a Staple ingredient

seasoning salt)

in many Mexican dishes

curry powder

clarified butter

sine. Invented by the British during their occupation of India, curry

butter that has had most of the milk solids and

a mixture of spices and seeds found in Indian cul-

impurities removed, leaving behind almost pure butterfat

has become a mainstay in many kitchens around the world for its

coagulation

sweetly pungent and hot flavor profile.

the transformation of proteins from a liquid state to a

solid state, usually through application of heat

dehydration

cocina tapas varieties

die

cooked tapas; often more elaborate and intricate

celd sandwich

a sandwich that is served cold, using raw or pre-

a preservation technique in which moisture is evap-

orated from food in a controlled manner the plate that goes on a meat grinder that controls the size of

the grind

cooked and chilled ingredients

dim sum

collagen casings

dumplings, prepared foods, and pastries

sausage casings that are made from extracted

the service of various

collagen from hog hide

dip

color

dunked and then consumed

an element of design that can be manipulated to achieve a

composed

salad

a highly structured

salad that combines

the

display

the

collective

sum

of various

centerpieces that are presented to guests

compound salad

dominant materials the visually vegetable flowers in a display

a combination of raw, precooked and chilled, or proteins,

pastas, vegetables,

fruits, grains, and

legumes as the principal body component, which is then combined

steamed

line

flavor, texture, and color characteristics of various ingredients

cooked-to-order

fried and

a sauce used as a condiment for an hors d’oeuvre that is

directional flow

variety of results

bite-sized

largest

design and

elements most

and

attractive

dominant meat

with the most appropriate garnish, foundation, and dressing

acomponent in forcemeat preparation that provides most of the item’s structure, as well as being the primary flavor focus

concasse

dry cure

literally, “to chop”; a specific preparation of tomato in

which the skin and seeds are removed by blanching and shocking, and then the remaining tomato flesh is chopped

288

Glossary

also known as a rub; a process of preservation or flavoring by which a cure mixture is rubbed on the outside of food and then allowed to penetrate the food via osmosis

emulsified vinaigrette

a simple vinaigrette with some form of a Stabilizer or emulsifier added

via a liquid saline solution; however the intensity of the medium is

emulsifier

gentler than for a wet cure

an ingredient that stabilizes an emulsion by reducing

the surface tension of one of the ingredients, thereby hindering its tendency to coalesce with itself; the resulting emulsion is less likely to break

emulsion

a mixture of two or more liquids, usually a fat and a water-based ingredient, suspended together. Emulsions can be

either oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions a method of preparing sausage that produces a smooth forcemeat with an even texture simple,

unpretentious

food

designed

a process similar to wet curing in that food is flavored

forcemeat

a mixture of meat, fat, seasonings, and spices that has

been chopped, ground, or puréed

form

the shape of an object or group of objects

fresh cheese

cheese that is uncooked and generally requires no

ripening after the curd is separated from the whey

fresh sausage

emulsion grind enoteca

flavor brine

to complement

beverages and to keep patrons from getting hungry. Enoteca

is

sausage made from raw meat that has not been

cooked or cured

fukusa sushi galantine

rice with accompaniments wrapped in an omelet

a forcemeat preparation that is rolled inside the skin of

one of the meat ingredients: chicken, turkey, duck, or the like. The

rarely served hot and requires little preparation time.

forcemeat

Escoffier, George Auguste

poached in a court bouillon, or it may be baked or roasted.

a French chef who is credited with

mixture is formed

into a cylindrical shape and then

organizing the production staff of a kitchen to work in the same

garam masala

manner

damom, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper

as the French

military, thereby creating the brigade

system; he was also known as “the chef of kings and the king

of chefs”

garde manger

literally, “to keep the food,” but today more likely a

station in a food service operation

fabrication

the process of breaking down whole carcasses of an-

imals into smaller, more manageable pieces from which retail and by-product cuts can be taken fat

ground mixture of toasted coriander, cumin, car-

savory

preparations of food served as appetizers or as components

of

large banquets and buffets garnish

a component in a forcemeat preparation that provides moist-

responsible for many

in classic French cuisine, garnishes are often the starch,

vegetable, and sauce components that accompany the main food

ness, richness, and flavor

item in a dish. Also, an accessory to a Sandwich; a sandwich garnish

fatback

should enhance flavor, provide texture balance, and act as a visual aid.

the clear white fat found on the top of a pork loin

feedtube

the tube that allows the meat to drop onto the worm in

garnish ingredient

a component in forcemeat preparation that is

a meat grinder; it is used primarily as a Safety mechanism

added

fermier

break up and add contrast to the visual appearance of a forcemeat

acutin which long cylindrical vegetables such as carrots,

after the meat has been ground; these ingredients can

summer squash, and parsnips are cut in quarters lengthwise and

gazpacho

then sliced widthwise into 4-inch slices

soaked bread

filler materials

gelatin

the smallest items and other materials in a food

a

Muslim-influenced

soup

with

water-

a glutinous form of protein that comes in powder or sheet

display; they can even be groupings of smaller composed group-

form; it must be rehydrated before use.

ings of garnishes.

ghee

Filler materials cover exposed areas and are

thickened

clarified butter that has been heated and strained to remove

essential in the final shaping and form of the display.

the sediment that separated from the butterfat. Ghee has rich and

filling

buttery flavor characteristics. Because of ghee’s purity, it can be

the focal point and main flavor profile of asandwich; all other

components should augment the filling in both flavor and texture

fine brunoise

a cut of food into cubes

measuring

“es inch

kept at moderate room temperature.

xX

gratin forcemeat

forcemeat that is similar to progressive-grind

Ye inch X Ye inch

forcemeat in that the ingredients are processed through a meat

fine julienne

grinder; however, in gratin forcemeat, a portion of the dominant

a cut of food into blocks measuring /e inch X As inch x

2 inches

meat has been seared to enhance the flavor and color of the final

fines herbes

product

a mixture of chervil, chives, and tarragon that can be used as an end garnish, as an ingredient in a sauce or vinaigrette, or as a component of a light protein preparation

a single green or a mixture of various green and leafy vegetables

finger sandwich

gremolata

a sandwich that is generally more delicate, usu-

powder

a

ground

asalad whose main body consists of a preparation of an Italian herb mixture commonly associated with osso

bucco; a mixture of lemon zest, sage, rosemary, anchovy, and garlic

ally using more refined ingredients

five-spice

green salad

mixture

of

Szechuan peppercorns, ginger, and star anise

cinnamon,

clove,

guild system

a formalized system that was responsible for devel-

oping the skills and talents of guild members associated with a

Glossary

289

trolled the production, sales, distribution, and preparation of food

medium dice a cut of food measuring approximately % inch x % inch X % inch

and other commerce and trade items

milk

half rondelle

mincing

specific trade or craft and that established the boundaries that con-

a cut in which long cylindrical vegetables such as

carrots, Summer squash, and parsnips are cut in half lengthwise, and then sliced widthwise into %-inch slices

hard cheese

the most pungent and flavorful type of cheese; the

lack of moisture and the length of the ripening and aging process give these cheeses a hard texture that makes slicing very difficult.

Hard cheeses generally fracture when separating, making them suitable for grating harmony

incenterpiece design, a sense of overall belonging to the

centerpiece’s final destination

height

an element of design that can be manipulated to achieve

a variety of results

herbes de Provence

a dried herb mixture composed

of thyme,

Sage, fennel, savory, rosemary, and bay leaf

hors d’oeuvre

acourse of food outside the normal menu, often as-

sociated with special occasions or cocktail parties

hot sandwich

a sandwich that is served hot, using a combination

of raw, precooked, and cooked-to-order ingredients

ice bath

a mixture of ice and water that is used to rapidly cool

food items ice carving

the process of sculpting or modeling ice to form dec-

orative and creative artistic pieces inari sushi

julienne

cut of food

measuring

approximately

’z inch X ‘& inch X 2 inches kebab

a Turkish dish originally composed of alternating cubes of

mutton and mutton fat threaded onto skewers and roasted over open flames large dice layering

acut measuring approximately % inch x % inch X % inch a technique of piling greens on the plate in layers to pro-

mote visual appeal, height, mass, and style

layout

the comprehensive

presentation of food dishes; focused

before final production and cooking sculpture

modeled

a form

that adds

of sculpture

pieces

Monsieur Boulanger

owner of a Paris tavern that sold “restorative”

soup-type dishes (the word restaurant comes from the French word

restaurer); he is commonly believed to have run the first restaurant mousseline

forcemeat

forcemeat

that

is mostly

puréed

binding agent

natural casings

Sausage casings that are made from the intes-

tines, bung, caul fat, and stomach

negative space

space that is empty; negative space Is visually

essential to a presentation neutral line

a single-directioned visual flow of food with slightly

softer curves and edges

nigiri sushi nitrate

rice with raw or cooked meat or seafood

a salt of nitric acid that is commonly found in plants. It is

converted

into nitrites either through chemical transformation or

nitrite

a curing component added

to salts to prevent common

causes of food-borne illnesses associated with cured or preserved foods

norimaki

sushi

rice with

accompaniments

rolled

or wrapped

in seaweed oblique

larger knife cut that produces a wedgelike appearance

oil-in-water emulsion the water

an emulsion

that has the oil added

open-faced sandwich

a sandwich that has a single base layer of

items used to convey the direction of a food display.

paté en crodte

forcemeat encased in an edible and savory dough

lozenge

paysanne

a diamond-shaped cut usually % inch thick an emulsion of fat in liquid; the hardest and most

a knife cut piece measuring approximately % inch x #inch X ¥%inch

fickle of the cold emulsion sauces. As much as 80 percent of the

pellicle

volume of mayonnaise Is oil Suspended within liquid.

persillade

collee

a mixture

of equal

parts gelatin

solution,

mayonnaise, and sour cream

meat grinder an attachment or dedicated process meat into smaller pieces

290

Glossary

machine

used

to

savory meat pie dough

preparation. Paté en crotite can be baked in a mold or freeform.

mayonnaise

or

pounded and includes cream as the fat and egg product as the

Line materials are often more structured than other pieces in a display.

mayonnaise

of

medium to a structured armature

pate a pate

the visual directional flow of a food item

line materials

French for “everything in place”; the preparation and assembly of various food products (apparei/) and equipment

mise en place

bread and is then finished with the spread, filling, and garnish

on creating interaction between the food and the plate or platter

line

a technique used to produce a very small chop

naturally as we digest our food.

rice and accompaniments in a fried bean curd shell

a stick-shaped

the base ingredient of cheese

to

the tacky exterior of a cured food

a minced herb mixture of parsley leaves, garlic, and lemon zest, used mainly with sautéed meats and other light proteins

pickling a process of preservation or flavoring in which foods are stored in an acidic medium for a period of time, eventually taking on the flavor of the medium

plate garnish a functional and edible component of a dish designed to showcase the attributes of the whole dish or various elements

consume by shortening the length of the bundles of muscle fiber)

platter garnish

a,functional and edible or nonedible component of a dish designed to showcase the attributes of the entire dish or

food preparation

various elements

inant materials in a food display but are needed

plumping an effective method of developing flavor complexity and length by introducing a dehydrated food into a warm liquid

desired form of the display

space that is occupied by an item

positive space

mixed with fat, seasonings, and salt to produce a flavorful, savory secondary materials

service a la francaise service a la russe

a service style with the menu and food

progressive-grind forcemeat

and preparation

forcemeat composed of equal parts

shape

once on a large die and then again on a smaller die

a variety of results

proportion and scale

shocking

the relationship of size and mass

a laminate flour-and-butter dough that uses steam to

produce hundreds of layers, promoting a crisp and light texture

an oval-shaped piece of a mixture of puréed light proteins,

a service style with courses

of food being

offered at staged intervals to ensure proper temperature, quality,

of a dominant meat, lean pork, and fat; the mixture is ground twice,

quenelle

to provide the

offerings coming out entirely at one time

prep list a list of specific requirements for an operation’s menu and production setup

puff pastry

items that are visually smaller than the dom-

an element of design that can be manipulated to achieve a method of cooling food products to stop the cooking

process. Cooling can be done rapidly in an ice bath or more slowly by

increasing the item’s surface area and slowly lowering Its temperature; both methods have the same outcome with different characteristics

a binding agent, and seasoning that is either poached or roasted

simple vinaigrette

raised meatpie

and fat molecules are broken down into smaller pieces, allowing

forcemeat encased in an edible and savory dough

a temporary emulsion formed when the liquid

preparation that is baked using an open-top decorative mold

the two masses to combine into a slightly homogenous mixture

rillette

small dice

a paté made from minced

pork or other meat that has

a cube measuring approximately % inch X 4 inch x

been seasoned and flavored and then combined with fat

” inch

rind

the outside edge of an aged cheese

smoked sausage

raw, unprocessed fish eLES

have a curing agent containing either sodium nitrite or sodium ni-

roe

rondelle

a cut in which long cylindrical vegetables such as car-

rots, Summer

Squash,

and

A-iInch slices roulade

parsnips

are

sliced

widthwise

into

Ve

planked and flattened meats with a forcemeat mixture

spread on top that are then rolled into a pinwheel formation and cooked rumtopf

a pot of fruit preserved in alcohol

salad dressing

in classic cuisine, a simple mixture of cream and

white vinegar, which produces a less viscous liquid than the two

sausage that is made with raw meat but must

trate introduced to hinder bacterial growth before and during the smoking process

smoking, cold

a preservation or flavoring technique in which foods

are first cured and then introduced into a smoked environment smoking, hat

a preservation or flavoring technique in which foods

are introduced into a smoked environment soft ripened cheese period of time

ingredients by themselves

spatial alignment

salade tiéde

presentation

“warm salad”; a cold base or foundation of ingredi-

ents topped with hot cooked-to-order ingredients

spread

salt curing

stacked sandwich

a process

of applying salt to food that promotes

cheese that is molded and ripened for a short the relationship of space

in a given dish or

the sauce for a sandwich a sandwich that is closely related to basic cold

osmosis and the denaturing of food by the removal of moisture and

and hot sandwich varieties, except that it is created with multiple

the introduction of salt to the composition of the food

layers of ingredients and a minimum of three pieces of the bread

salt dough

component

a dough made of cornstarch, water, and salt that can

be modeled for display saltpeter

sashimi

potassium nitrate, once used as a preservative ingredient

sliced raw fish

thin slices of skewered meat roasted over an open flame; it originated in Indonesia and is considered one of the first barbe-

satay

cued foods physically denatured meat (ground to expose the sursausage face area to salt and seasonings, and to make the meat easier to

stretched-curd cheese

cheese made by stretching curds of cheese

in warm salted water and then re-forming them into a solid mass; also known as pasta filata

strong line

a single-directioned visual flow of food

stuffing nozzle

the nipple-like attachment

on the end

of the

Sausage press or grinder that is used for stuffing casings

suet dough

a classic charcuterie dough that is a mixture of salt,

flour, and rendered suet

Glossary

291

sushi

inthe classic sense, cooked and seasoned rice. Combining

the rice with another ingredient results in a specific type of sushi

symmetrical symmetry

a balanced presentation of food an element

of design

that can

be manipulated

to

achieve a variety of results synthetic casings plastic material,

sausage casings that are generally a form of used

for common

luncheon

meats

and

dried

item that relies on the forming and moisture-retention properties offered by wrapping the preparation in cheesecloth or another permeable fabric encasement any charcuterie

torchon

tourné

a 2-inch-long football-shaped length with 7 sides

visual weight the mass of an object associated with one’s sense of sight. Objects can look heavy or light and presentations can be influenced by the layout of a dish to feel heavier or lighter

Sausages (Salami, pepperoni, etc). These casings are nonedible

volume

and must be removed before final service. They are never used in

material occupies

the making of fresh sausage

wasabi

takeaway carving

water-in-oil emulsion

a form of sculpture that removes elements from

a unit of measure

of space the

Japanese horseradish

the stock body

weak line

tallow

and focus

asculpted food medium composed of equal parts animal

based on the amount

an emulsion in which water is added to the oil

a multidirectional visual flow of food that loses direction

fat, beeswax, and paraffin

weight

tamper

often considered the most accurate means of measurement

awooden or plastic dowel used to tamp meat into the feed

tube of a meat grinder when forward progress has stopped tapas

small

bite-sized

appetizers

most

often

served

wetcure in bars

whey

tea sandwich a sandwich that is generally more delicate, usually using more refined ingredients

making

temporary emulsion asemistable mixture of incompatible liquids that fail to homogenize because the main ingredients tend to remain separate because of surface tension a forcemeat preparation baked in a container or mold that

is lined with fat and sealed either with a tight-fitting lid or with a dough preparation composed of flour and water

terroir the characteristics of the land that are displayed season's harvest of food

in a

based on gravity’s effect on an item;

also known as brining; a process of introducing salt, fla-

vorings and spices via liquid by the process of osmosis or injection

and cafés

terrine

a unit of measure

worm

the liquid that remains after the curding process of cheese the corkscrew-like mechanism that forces meat through a

meat grinder wrap

a sandwich whose ingredients are encased in a thin bread

component, usually lavash or a tortilla X-blade

the cutting mechanism in a meat grinder; it typically has

an X shape with four blades moving at all times

yakitori Japanese barbecue; a sweet applied to chicken and other foods yang

describes

and

foods that are associated

fermented with warming

sauce and

texture a visual element of design that engages the senses of sight and feel

through ingredient selection and cooking technique. Yang brings

theme

forward a masculine feel to the dish.

the focus of a buffet or menu

toasting

amethod of enhancing an ingredient’s characteristic fla-

vors by applying heat. Toasting can be done either on the stovetop in a heavy-bottomed pan set over medium heat or on a lined sheet pan in a moderate oven.

292

Glossary

robust

styles of food

preparation,

designed

to heat the body

yin describes foods that offer cooling and mild flavors and techniques, promoting a feminine aspect to the food

Index

Adria, Ferran, 229 Aioli, 53

A la carte, 216

A la francaise, 4 A la minute, 4 A la russe, 4 Alcohol, preserving fruit in, 132-133 A lino tapas, 230

Allumette, 13 Amuse-bouche, plated appetizers, hors d’oeuvre about, 92, 192-194 angels on horseback, 201 boursin-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates, 201 canapés and tea sandwiches, 196-197 carne salata with créme fraiche, 202 caviar, 195-196 chicken liver crostini, 200

chicken wings with truffle demi-glace, 200 chili-roasted almonds, 206 crab and avocado salad, 208 crudités, 197 cucumber velouté, 210 deviled eggs, 201

steak tartare with croustade, 205 tuna tostadas, 206 vegetable crudités, 204

wrapped and filled, 198 Andouille sausage, 156 Antipasto, 228-229 Appetizers. See Amuse-bouche, plated appetizers, hors d’oeuvre Apples apple cider brine, 137 apple sauce, 56 autumn cider vinaigrette, 50 chutney, 41 heirloom apple and walnut Waldorf salad, 86 Waldorf salad, 73 Apricot-coconut sarmbal, 58 Armature, 279 Asparagus grilled asparagus and mushroom salad, 79 and serrano bundles with sherry vinaigrette, 240 Aspic gelée, 29, 37-39, 178 Aspic molds, 179

a

dips and spreads, 197-198 eggs a la francaise with spinach, smoked salmon and choron

Baby green Bibb lettuce, 67 Baby red oak leaf lettuce, 67

sauce, 202 gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted Jalapefio, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 gougeres, 207 grilled shrimp and scallop aidelle, 209 grilled shrimp with cocktail sauce gelée, 200 grilled steak salad with watercress, arugula, and onion bralée, 207 kebabs, satay, and brochettes, 198 marinated olives, 204 Old Bay chips, 204

Bacalhao, Bacon angels bacon, bacon,

Provencal roasted tomatoes with Italian sausage, 203 roasted pears with frisée, walnuts, grapes,

and blue cheese, 208 salad mignon on endive leaves with dill, 203 sanitation and, 197 smoked salmon and brie panini, 210 smoked salmon barquettes, 205

232 on horseback, 201 heirloom tomato, and beet greens sandwich, lettuce, and tomato sandwich, 106

102

basic cure, 135 basic honey cure, 139 boursin-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates, 201 brine for, 139 Bagna cauda and crudités, 240 Balance, in presentation, 246, 273 Barbecue about, 127 barbecued pork paillard with cabbage slaw and corn salad, 110 spice rub for, 137 yakitori, 238 Batonnet, 13

293

Batter, 20 Beef beef and cucumber rolls, 238 boeuf en gelée, 38 carne salada, 242 charque, 233 classic American hamburger, 107 flank steak and chimichurri sauce flatbread sandwich, 103

grilled steak salad with watercress, arugula, and onion bralée, 76, 207 Reuben sandwich, 108 steak tartare with croustade, 205 Beets

chévre with orange blossom honey, diced beets, and micro spinach, 79 roasted beet salad, 79 Beluga caviar, 195 Bibb-style lettuce, 66 Binding agents, 171 Blanching, 18, 19, 22-23 Blooming, 38 Blue cheese dressing, 57 Blue-veined cheeses, 215 Bok choy, 67 Boucher, 4 Boulanger, 4 Boulanger, Monsieur, 4 Bread crumbs, 20 gazpacho, 209, 230 knives for, 12 salamorejo, 242 for sandwiches, 93, 95 Tuscan bread salad, 87 Brigade system, 4 Brines about, 121-123 all-purpose seafood brine, 135 apple cider brine, 137 basic poultry brine, 136 chipotle-lime brine, 136 curing brine for meat and fish, 138 game and waterfowl brine, 136 generic all-purpose brine, 135 generic meat brine, 139 honey-chili brine, 137 pickling brine for hams, 139 Vermont maple-vanilla brine, 136 Brisket, brine for, 139 Brochettes,

198 Brune d’hiver lettuce, 67 Brunoise, 13 Buffets cold, 250-252 double-zone setup and flow, 258 four-zone setup and flow, 260-261 planning, production, and service, 256, 259, 262 plate and pattern design, 250-251 single zone setup and flow, 257 Butterhead lettuce, 66

294

_|ndex

CG eee Cabbage barbecued pork paillard with cabbage slaw and corn salad, 110 Chinese, 68 fresh vegetable slaw, 86 Caesar salad, 77 Caesar salad dressing, 57 Canapés about, 92, 196-197 anchovy, tomato, and caper, 113 salami, red pepper cream cheese, and grilled-scallion, 112 smoked trout, horseradish butter, chervil, and cucumber, 113 toasted-walnut, garden cress, and Dijon, 112 Vidalia, chervil, and butter, 112 Caréme, Marie-Antoine, 4 Carrots carrot and raisin side salad, 82 carrot lilies and roses, 269-270, 271 Casings for sausages, 148-149 Caul fat, 153 Caviar, 195-196 Centerpieces arranging, 273-274 fruit and vegetable carving, 280-282 ice, 282-283 modeling, 279 takeaway sculpture and carving, 278 tallow, 284 Chacina tapas, 230 Chantilly mayonnaise, 53 Charcuterie about, 168-169 Absolut and tarragon cured salmon, 186 aspic molds, 179 chicken-apple terrine, 185 chicken galantine, 183 chicken liver terrine with shallots, 184 cooked duck liver mousse, 182 country paté, 181 Cubano terrine, 188 curing salts in, 171 en crodte dough, 182 equipment and sanitation, 169 forcemeat, 169-171, 172-176 paté en crodte (about), 168, 178 paté en crodte (recipe), 184 paté forestier, 181 paté spice mix, 180 pork rillettes, 187 quenelles, 169 rabbit terrine with prunes, chives, and walnuts, 185 raised meat pies, 168 red zinfandel duck terrine with pancetta, almonds, and cherries, 180 roasted stuffed quail in glace de poulet, 186 roulades, 168 shellfish terrine, 188 Tennessee whiskey paté, 187

terrines, 168, 177 torchons, 168 Charcutier, 4 Chard, 68 i Charque, 233 Chaudfroid sauces, 39-40 Cheese about, 214 ancho-lime queso fresco, 220 balsamic strawberries with honey mascarpone, basil, and toasted almond powder, 219 blue-veined, 215 chévre with orange blossom honey, diced beets, and micro spinach, 219 classification of, 215 creme de €poisses, 217 Hike 2!5 flammekueche, 220 fresh, 214 fresh lime cheese, 218 fresh ricotta, 217 fromage blanc, 217 garlic-herb cheese spread, 217 gorgonzola-walnut galette, 219 hard-ripened, 215 maple syrup—whipped brie crostini, 218 mascarpone, 220 process of making, 214 ricotta trifle with grilled vegetables and almonds, 218 serving, 216 Slicing, 216 soft-ripened, 214 storing, 215-216

stretched curd, 215 Cheese carts, 216 a Chefs and restaurateurs Adria Ferran, 229 celebrity of, 5 Georges Auguste Escoffier, 226 historically, 4-5 Keller, Thomas, 269 Marie-Antoine Caréme, 4 modern, 5-6 Chicken brine for, 139 chicken-apple terrine, 185 chicken chorizo with cilantro, 159 chicken galantine, 183 chicken liver crostini, 200 chicken liver terrine with shallots, 184

chicken chicken chicken chicken

pancetta, 160 quesadilla sandwich, 109 satay with soy dipping sauce, 238 wings with truffle demi-glace, 200 chicken yakitori with grilled scallions, 238 confit de poulet, 134 galantine, 183 grilled chicken chinoise salad, 77 Santa Barbara chicken sandwich, 107 tarragon-walnut chicken salad with grilled brie, 78 Chicory, 66

Chilies, 232 Chill powder, 21 Chinese cabbage, 68 Chinese cuisine, 225-226 Chirashi sushi, 225 Chopping, 15 Chorizo chicken chorizo with cilantro, 159 chorizo con pimiento (Spanish sausage with sweet pepper), 229-230 Mexican, 162 sausage, 160 South American, 163 Choux pastry, 22 Chutneys apple, 41 dried fruit, 43 lavender-pear, 44 pear, 45

pineapple-mango, 45 roasted autumn squash, 42 roasted onion, 46 roasted tomato, 46 Citrus garnishes, 267

Clarified butter, 16, 17, 18 Coagulation, 214 Coating sauces aspic gelée, 29, 37, 38 chaudfroid sauces, 39-40 purpose of, 37 technique, 39 Cocina tapas, 230 Cold buffets serviceability, 251 symmetry, 251 Cold smoking, 123-124 Collagen casings, 148 Color, in presentation, 246, 273 Component garnishes, 266 Concassé, 15 Condiments about, 40 apple chutney, 41 applesauce, 56 apricot-coconut sambal, 58 Asian cucumber-onion relish, 56 dried fruit chutney, 43 fresh tomato salsa, 58 hummus, 59 lavender-pear chutney, 44 molasses mustard, 53 peanut sauce, 53 pear chutney, 45 pesto, 54 pineapple-mango chutney, 45 piri-piri, 52 roasted autumn squash chutney, 42 roasted onion chutney, 46 roasted tomato chutney, 46 rustic plum sauce, 52 salsa cruda, 52 Index

295

Condiments (continued)

soy barbecue sauce, 55 tapenade, 51 walnut sauce, 55 Cones, 269 Confit brine, 139 confit de canard (duck confit), 134 confit de poulet (chicken confit), 134 technique for preserving, 127-128 Contrast for decorative displays and centerpieces, 273 in plate and platter design, 246 Contrast, in presentation, 246 Convenience foods, 24 Corned beef, 108 Cos lettuce, 66-67 Coulis and purées definition, 36 herb, 59 preparing, 37 savory fruit or vegetable, 59 Country-style forcemeat, 170, 173 Crab crab and avocado salad, 208 cucumber veloute, 210 Crépes, 198 Croque Monsieur, and variations, 106 Crudités about, 197 bagna cauda and crudités, 240 vegetable crudités, 204 Cubano terrine, 188 Cucumbers Asian cucumber-onion relish, 56 beef and cucumber rolls, 238 cucumber rolls, 235 cucumber velouté, 210 salade concombres, 75 spicy tuna and cucumber rolls, 237 Curds, 214 Cured sausage, 146. See also Sausage Curing agents, 119-120, 147 Curing salts, 171 Curry powder, 21

pate a paté, 22 pate brisée, 22 puff pastry, 22 salt, 284-285 suet, 22 weaver's, 278 Dry cures (rubs), 120-121 Duck Asian duck salad, 89 brine for, 139 confit de canard (duck confit), 134 cooked duck liver mousse, 182 crispy duck salad with orange hoisin vinaigrette, 80 red zinfandel duck terrine with pancetta, almonds, and cherries, 180 Dumplings, 198

E Eggs a la francaise with spinach, smoked salmon and choron sauce, 202 deviled, 201 for garni, 269 safety, in mayonnaise, 34 salad dressings based on, 35 Emulsified vinaigrette, 30, 31-32 Emulsifiers, 29, 31-32, 33 Emulsion grind, 151

Emulsions, 30-36 En crodte dough, 168, 178, 182, 184 Enoteca, 228-229 Equipment for charcuterie, 169 combination ovens, 5 for garnishing, 267 global influences and, 224 sausages, 150 Escarole, 68 Escoffier, Georges Auguste, 4, 226 F Fat

D

in forcemeat,

Dehydration. preserving by, 130-131 Dice, 13-14 Dim sum, 226 Dips, 197-198 Directional flow, in presentation, 249-250 Displays, design of, 272 Dominant materials, 273 Dominant meats, in forcemeat, 170-171 Doughs choux pastry, 22 cracker, 22

en crodte, 168, 178, 182, 184 296

Index

171

rendering, 22 Fatback, 146-147 Feed tubes, 150

Fennel, grilled, with parmesan, salad, 76 Fig salumi, 241 Filler materials, 273 Fillings, for sandwiches, 93, 95 Fine brunoise, 13

Fine julienne, 13 Fines herbes about, 21 vinaigrette, 51 Firm cheeses, 215

Fish. See also Seafood Curing brine for, 139 roe from, 195 seviche, 232 / smoked trout, horseradish butter, chervil, and cucumber canapé, 113 Five-spice powder, 21 Flavor brines, 122-123 Flow in buffet design, 256 in presentation, 249-250 Food as art. See Centerpieces; Garnishes; Plate and platter design Forcemeat, 169-171, 172-176 Form, 272 French cuisine, 4, 226-227, 282 French dressing, 57 Fresh cheeses, 214 Fresh sausage. See Sausage Fruit. See also Apples; Melons; Pears apricot-coconut sambal, 58 carving, 280-282 peeling techniques for, 18 pineapple-mango chutney, 45 plum sauce, 52 preserving, with alcohol, 132-133 savory fruit or vegetable coulis, 59 Fukusa sushi, 225

G Galantines, 176, 183 Game and waterfowl brine for, 136 rabbit terrine, with prunes, chives, and walnuts,

H Ham asparagus and serrano bundles with sherry vinaigrette, 240 brine for, 139 country ham and sweet potato salad, 76 Croque Monsieur, 106 cure and seasoning mix, 140 jambon maison, 141

pickling brine for, 139 rub, 141 Hanks, 148 Hard-ripened cheeses, 215

Harmony, 273 Health concerns, 5 Height, in presentation, 247

Herbes de Provence, 21-22 Herbs, 66 Holding techniques, 24 Horns, 269 Hors d’oeuvre. See Amuse-bouche, Hot smoking, 123-125 Hummus, 59

plated appetizers, hors d’oeuvre

185

roasted stuffed quail in glace de poulet, 186 winter salad with seared quail and honey-glaze vinaigrette, 82 Garam masala, 21 Garde manger, 4-6 Garnishes basic examples of, 267-271

classical and contemporary, 266 design for, 272-273 ingredients, 147-148,

Gratin forcemeat, 170, 173, 174 Gravad lax, 53 Greek salad, 80 Greens, 66-69 Gremolata, 21-22 Gribiche, 53 Grinding, 151-153 Guild system, 3, 4

171 for sandwiches, 93 tools and utensils for, 267 Gazpacho about, 230 with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapefio, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 Gelatin, 38, 40 German potato salad, 84 Ghee, 18 Global influences. For recipes, see International cuisine Chinese, 225-226 France, 226-227 Italy, 227-229 Japanese, 224-225 Mexico and Latin America, 231-233 Spain, 229-230 Gougéres, 207

I Ice bath, 19, 23 Iceberg lettuce, 66 Ice bowls, 269

Ice centerpieces, 282-283 Inari sushi, 225 Insta Cure No.1 and No. 2, 119, 171 International cuisine asparagus and serrano bundles with sherry vinaigrette, 240 bagna cauda and crudités, 240 beef and cucumber rolls, 238 California rolls, 235 carne salada, 242 chicken satay with soy dipping sauce, 238 chicken yakitori with grilled scallions, 238 chirashi sushi (tossed sushi or salad-style sushi), 236 cucumber rolls, 235 fig salumi, 241 grilled onions agridolce, 240 grilled swordfish kebabs with honey cilantro yogurt drizzle, 239 kaku-zukuri (cubed sashimi), 234 mortadella paste, 241 romesco sauce, 239 salamorejo, 242 salmon nori rolls, 237 Index

297

International cuisine (continued)

seviche of scallops, 241 spicy tuna and cucumber rolls, 237 spring rolls, 239 sushi hand rolls (tekmaki), 237 sushi rice, 234 Italian cuisine, 227-229 Italian salad, 81

J Japanese cuisine, 224-225, Julienne, 13

282

K Kale, 68 Kebabs, 198 Keller, Thomas, 269 Kielbasa, 158 Kosher salt, 147

L Lactuca sativa, 67 Lamb fresh herb crust for, 138 lamb piadina with pancetta, arugula, and oregano sour cream, 103 merguez sausage, 157 sausage, 161 spicy lamb, pine nut, and sun-dried tomato sausage, 164 Latin American cuisine, 232-233 Layering, 71 Layout, in presentation, 248 Leeks as garnishes, 270 poached, ravigote, 75 Lentil and pine nut salad, 87 Lettuce bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwich, 106 Caesar salad, 77 classic green salad with chévre croustade, 72 as foundation for salad, 64 salad mix, 74 types, 66-67 Line, in presentation, 249-250, 272 Line materials, 273 Lobster. See a/so Seafood roll, with arugula, corn, and apple, 106 Locally grown foods, 6 Lola Rosa Lettuce, 67

M Market trends, 5 Mayonnaise, 29, 30, 32-34, 53 298

Index

Mayonnaise collée, 40 Meat grinders, 150 Medici, Catherine de, 227 Melons ball clusters, 270 carving, 282 mixed summer melon salad, with honey-balsamic

dressing, 85 Mexican cuisine, 230-231 Mincing, 15 Mise en place convenience foods, 24 definition, 9 goal of, 10 holding foods for service production, 24 planning and production, 10-11 techniques, 16-23 tools and equipment, 11-16 Modeling centerpieces, 279 Monte Cristo sandwich, 101 Mortadella paste, 241 Mousse cooked duck liver mousse, 182 ratio of gelatin to water for, 40 Mousseline forcemeats, 170, 175 Mukimono, 278 Mushrooms in forcemeat, 170-171 grilled asparagus and mushroom salad, 79 mushroom-Gruyeére salad, 88 Mustard as an emulsifier, 29, 30, 32 coarse grain, 93 as a condiment, 40 honey-Dijon vinaigrette, 49 molasses, 53 mustard walnut vinaigrette, 44 Mustard greens, 68

N Natural casings, 148-149 Negative space, in presentation, 248-249 Nigiri sushi, 225 Nitrosamines, 119-120 Norimaki sushi, 225 Nutrition and health concerns, 5

Nuts chili-roasted almonds, 206 heirloom apple and walnut Waldorf, 86 lentil and pine nut salad, 87 mustard walnut vinaigrette, 44 peanut sauce, 53 spicy lamb, pine nut, and sun-dried tomato sausage, 164 tarragon-walnut chicken salad with grilled brie, 78 toasted-walnut, garden cress, and Dijon canapé, 112 walnut sauce, 55 walnut vinaigrette, 49

O

Plumping, 21

Olives marinated, 204’ tapenade, 51 Onions grilled onions agridolce, 240 red, as garnish, 269-270 roasted onion chutney, 46 three-onion salad, 86 Vidalia, chervil, and butter canapé, 112 Osetra caviar, 195 Osmosis, 119 Oysters angels on horseback, 201 fried oyster po’boy, with rémoulade, 101 knife for opening, 12

P Packaging, 5 Palate, 6 Panadas, 171 Pasta about, 65 red wine pasta salad, 74 tortellini saiad, with dill dressing, 83

and tuna salad, 83 Pasta filata, 215 Pate a paté, 22 brisée, 22 country, 181 en crotte, 168, 178, 182, 184 paté forestier, 181 spice mix for, 180 Tennessee whiskey, 187 Patissier, 4 Paysanne, 13 Peanut sauce, 53 Pears chutney, 45 lavender-pear chutney, 44 roasted pears with frisée, walnuts, grapes and blue cheese, 75

Peeling methods, 18-19 Pellicle, 123 Persillade, 21, 22 Pesto, 94 Pickled vegetables, 141 Pickling, 131-132, 225

Piri-piri, 52 Planning, production, and service

buffets, 256, 259, 262 mise en place, 10-11 Plate and platter design for cold buffets, 250-251 elements of, 246-250 garnishes, 266 Plated appetizers. See Amuse-bouche, hors d’oeuvre

plated appetizers,

Plum sauce, 52 Pork. See a/so Bacon; Charcuterie; Chorizo; Sausage

barbecued pork paillard with cabbage slaw and corn salad, 110 fatback, 146-147 grilled Cubano sandwich, 108 rillettes, 187 rillettes a la francaise, 140 Positive space, in presentation, 248-249 Potatoes German potato salad, 84 Old Bay chips, 204 red potato salad, with prosciutto and chive dressing, 83 salade pomme de terre, 74 sweet potato and wild rice salad, 84 Poultry. See Chicken; Duck; Turkey Prep list, 11 Preserving all-purpose seafood brine, 135 apple cider brine, 137 barbecue spice rub, 137 basic bacon, 135 basic dry cure for meat, 138 basic honey cure for bacon, 139 basic poultry brine, 136 chipotle-lime brine, 136 confit and rillette methods, 127-129 confit de canard (duck confit), 134 confit de poulet (chicken confit), 134 curing agents, 119-120 curing brine for meat and fish, 138 by dehydration, 130-131 food spoilage and, 118 fresh herb crust for lamb, 138 fruit, with alcohol, 132-133 game and waterfowl brine, 136

generic all-purpose brine, 135 generic meat brine, 139 gin and tonic salmon cure, 140 honey-chili brine, 137 jambon maison, 141 nitrosamines and curing, 119-120 pickled vegetables, 141 by pickling, 131-132, 225 pickling brine for hams, 139 rubs and brines, 120-123 salt in, 118-119 smoking, 123-127 southwestern spice rub, 138 spices and seasonings, 120 sugars and sweeteners, 120 tarragon and vermouth—cured salmon, 134 tasso cure and seasoning mix, 140 tasso rub, 141 Vermont maple-vanilla brine, 136 Product quality and availability, 5 Professionalism, 6 Progressive-grind forcemeat, 170, 172 Proportion and scale, 273 Index

299

Prosciutto baguette panini with prosciutto and fresh buffalo mozzarella, 111 carne salata with créme fraiche, 202 red potato salad, with prosciutto and chive dressing, 83 Puff pastry, 22 Pureés. See Coulis and purées

Q Quail roasted stuffed quail in glace de poulet, 186 winter salad with seared quail and honey-glaze vinaigrette, 82 Quatre épices, 21 Quenelles, 169 Quiche, 198

R Rabbit terrine, with prunes, chives, and walnuts, 185

Radishes, as garnishes, 271 Raised meat pies, 168, 178

Ranch dressing, 54 Raw food cuisine, 130 Reconstitution, 131 Red onion bulb, 269-270

Rehydration, 131 Relish, Asian cucumber-onion, 56 Restaurant, 4 Reuben sandwich, 108 Rice California rolls, 235 chirashi sushi (tossed sushi or salad-style sushi), 236 cucumber rolls, 235 in Japanese cuisine, 224-225 Mexican rice salad, 87

sushi hand rolls (tekmaki), 237 sushi rice, 234 sweet potato and wild rice salad, 84 Rillettes making, 129 pork, 187 pork rillettes a la francaise, 140 technique for preserving, 128 Rim art, 267, 268 Rinds, cheese, 216 Rocket, 67 Roe, 195 Romaine, 66 Romaine lettuce, 66-67 Romesco sauce, 239 Roses, 269 Roulades, 168 Rubs about, 120-121 barbecue spice rub, 137 basic dry cure for meat, 138 Rumtopf, 132 Russian dressing, 55 300 = ‘Index

So

eee

Safety issues. See Sanitation and safety Salad dressings about, 35 blue cheese, 57 classic French-style, 57 cream, 58 creamy black pepper, 42 creamy roasted tomato basil, 43 dairy-based, cooked, 36 egg-based, cooked, 35 ranch, 54 Russian, 55 thousand island, 56 white balsamic Caesar, 57 Salads Asian duck, 89 assembly and presentation, 70-71 Caesar, 77 carrot and raisin, 82 chef, 80 Chinese chopped, 85 classic green salad with cheévre croustade, 72 components, 64 cooked vegetable, 81 country ham and sweet potato, 76 crispy duck, with orange hoisin vinaigrette, 80 fresh vegetable slaw, 86 German potato, 84 Greek, 80 green, composed, and compound, 65-66 grilled asparagus and mushroom, 79 grilled chicken chinoise, 77 grilled fennel and parmesan, 76 grilled steak, with watercress, arugula, and onion brilée, 76 heirloom apple and walnut Waldorf, 86 ingredients, 66-69 Italian, 81 lentil and pine nut, 87 Mexican rice, 87 mise en place for, 69 mixed summer melon, with honey-balsamic dressing, 85 mushroom-gruyere, 88 poached leeks ravigote, 75 red potato, with prosciutto and chive dressing, 83 red wine pasta, 74 roasted beet, 79 roasted pears with frisée, walnuts, grapes and blue cheese, 75 salade concombres, 75 salade fruits de mer, 88 salade pomme de terre, 74 salade tiéde, 66 salad mignon, 72 salad mix, 74 seared tuna Nicoise, 78 soba noodle, 73 sweet potato and wild rice, 84 tabbouleh, 73 tarragon-walnut chicken with grilled brie, 78

three-onion, 86 tortellini, with dill dressing, 83

tuna, 83 Tuscan bread, 87 Waldorf, 73 winter, with seared quail and honey-glaze vinaigrette, 82 Salami

red pepper cream cheese, and grilled-scallion canapé, 112 Salamorejo, 242 Salmon Absolut and tarragon cured salmon, 186 croque Norwegian, 106 eggs a la francaise with spinach, smoked salmon and choron sauce, 202 and fingerling potato salad, 134 gin and tonic salmon cure, 140

kaku-zukuri (cubed sashimi), 234 roe, 195

salmon nori rolls, 237. smoked smoked smoked tarragon

salmon and brie panini, 210 salmon barquettes, 205 salmon club sandwich, 102 and vermouth-—cured salmon, 134

Salsa, 51, 58 Salt

curing with, 120-123 in preserving, 118-119, in Sausages,

131

147

Salt dough centerpieces, 284-285 Saltpeter, 119 Sambal, apricot-coconut, 58 Sandwiches. See a/so Canapés about, 91-92 assembly methods, 96-99 bacon, heirloom tomato, and-beet greens, 102 bacon, lettuce, and tomato, 106

baguette panini with prosciutto and fresh buffalo mozzarella, 111 barbecued pork paillard with cabbage slaw and corn salad, 110 bread for, 93, 95 chicken quesadilla, 109 classic American hamburger, 107

lobster roll with arugula, corn, and apple, 106 mise en place, 95 Monte Cristo, 101 open-faced, 92, 99 open-faced grilled portabella, 110 open-faced seared foie gras, 105 pan bagna (bathed sandwich), 104 presentation, 100 Reuben, 108 roasted-vegetable pita, 111 Santa Barbara chicken, 107 smoked salmon club, 102

smoked turkey and grilled eggplant paste with corn sprouts, 102 spreads, 93, 95 stacked, 92, 97 tuna melt, 108

watercress and cumin butter tea sandwich, 111 workstations, 95-96 wrapped, 98 Sanitation and safety issues eggs, in mayonnaise, 34 for fruits and vegetables, 197 in sausage making, 150 temperature danger zone, 24 working with charcuterie, 169 Sashimi chirashi sushi (tossed sushi or salad-style sushi), 236 kaku-zukuri (cubed sashimi), 234 Satays, 198-199 Sauces coating sauces, 37-40 cold emulsions, 30-34 components, 28-29 condiments, 40 coulis and purées, 36-37 functions, 28 salad dressings, 35-36 (see also Salad dressings) standards of quality for, 29-30 Sausage about, 146 Adirondack stout, 156 Andouille, 156

classic club, 109

bratwurst,

cold, 92, 96 Croque Monsieur, 106 deli-style, 105 deli-style hoagie with oregano sour cream and onion-chervil slaw, 105

breakfast, 158 casings for, 147-149 chicken chorizo with cilantro, 159 chicken pancetta, 160 chorizo, 160 chorizo con pimiento (Spanish sausage with sweet pepper), 163 components, 146-147 cooking methods, 153 crépinette, 161 equipment, 150 French garlic, 158 fresh Andouille, 156 Italian, 155 kielbasa, 158

fillings, 93, 95 finger, or tea, 92 flank steak and chimichurri sauce flatbread, 103 fried oyster po’boy, with rémoulade, 101 garnishes, 93, 95

grilled Cubano, 108 grilled shrimp with heirloom tomato, watercress, and vinaigrette, 104 hot, 92, 96 ingredients for, 95 lamb piadina with pancetta, arugula, and oregano sour cream, 103

157

lamb, 161 making fresh, 151-153 Index

301

Sausage (continued) Merguez, 157 Mexican chorizo, 162 saucisson, 162 seafood, 159 smoking, 153 South American chorizo, 163 spicy lamb, pine nut, and sun-dried tomato, 164 stuffing into casings, 154 types, 146 Vermont breakfast, 155 Scale, 273 Scallops gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapeno, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 grilled shrimp and scallop aidelle, 209 salade fruits de mer, 88 seafood sausage, 159 seviche, 241 Sculpture and carving, 278 Seafood Absolut and tarragon cured salmon, 186 all-purpose seafood brine, 135 anchovy, tomato, and caper canapé, 113 angels on horseback, 201 crab and avocado salad, 208 eggs a la francaise with spinach, smoked salmon and choron sauce, 202 fried oyster po’boy, with remoulade, 101 gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapeno, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 gin and tonic salmon cure, 140 grilled shrimp and scallop aidelle, 209 grilled shrimp with cocktail sauce gelée, 200 grilled shrimp with heirloom tomato, watercress, and vinaigrette sandwich, 104 grilled swordfish kebabs with honey cilantro yogurt drizzle, 239 kaku-zukuri (cubed sashimi), 234 lobster roll with arugula, corn, and apple, 106 salade fruits de mer, 88 salad mignon, 72 salad mignon on endive leaves with dill, 203 salmon and fingerling potato salad, 134 salmon nori rolls, 237 sausage, 159 seviche of scallops, 241 shellfish terrine, 188 smoked salmon and brie panini, 210 smoked salmon barquettes, 205 smoked salmon club sandwich, 102 tarragon and vermouth—cured salmon, 134 tuna tostadas, 206 Secondary materials, 273 Serviceability, in buffet design, 251 Service styles a la francaise, 4 a la minute, 4 a la russe, 4 Sevruga caviar, 195 Shape, in presentation, 247-248

302 = ‘Index

Shocking, Shrimp

18, 19, 22-23, 24

grilled shrimp grilled shrimp grilled shrimp sandwich,

and scallop aidelle, 209 with cocktail sauce gelée, 200 with heirloom tomato, watercress, and vinaigrette 104

salade fruits de mer, 88 salad mignon, 72 salad mignon on endive leaves with dill, 203

seafood sausage, 159 shellfish terrine, 188 Smoked sausage, 146. See a/so Sausage Smoke roasting (barbecue), 127 Smoking, 123-127 Sodium nitrates, 119 Sodium nitrites, 119 Soft-ripened cheeses, 214 Sorrel, 68 Soup cucumber velouté, 210 gazpacho, 230 gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapefio, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 salamorejo, 242 Soy barbecue sauce, 55 Spanish cuisine, 229-230 Spices and seasonings, 120 Spreads about, 197-198 garlic-herb cheese spread, 217 for sandwiches, 93 Spring rolls, 198 Standardized recipes, 10-11 Stenciling, 267, 268 Storage, 24, 198, 215 Strawberries balsamic strawberries with honey mascarpone, basil, and toasted almond powder, 219 Stretched curd cheeses, 215 Suet dough, 22 Sugars and sweeteners, in preserving, 120 Sushi about, 194, 225 California rolls, 235 chirashi sushi (tossed sushi or salad-style sushi), 236 cucumber rolls, 235 sushi hand rolls (tekmaki), 237 sushi rice, 234 Symmetry in buffet design, 251 in plate and platter presentation, 247 Synthetic casings, 148

ene ee Tabbouleh, 73 Table setups for buffets. See Buffets Takeaway sculpture and carving, 278 Tallow, 279, 284, 285 Tampers, 150

Tapas, 224, 230 Tapenade, 51 Tasso ham

brine, 139 / cure and seasoning mix, 140 rub, 141 Teamwork, 6 Tea sandwiches. See a/so Canapés about, 92, 196-197 watercress and cumin butter, 111 Techniques blanching and shocking, 22-23 breading, 20 Clarifying butter, 17 holding, 24 knife skills and cutting, 13-16 making spice and herb mixtures, 21-22 peeling methods, 18 plumping, 21 prewashing and cleaning, 16-17 rendering fat, 22 toasting nuts, spices, seeds, 20-21 Technology, 5 Temperature caviar, 196 charcuterie, 169 cheese, 216 danger zone, 24

dehydrating foods, 130 emulsion grind, 152 emulsions, 30 homemade mayonnaise, 34 Terrines about, 168 chicken-apple, 185 re chicken liver, with shallots, 184 Cubano, 188 duck, with red zinfandel, pancetta, almonds, and cherries, 180 forming, 177 rabbit, with prunes, chives, and walnuts, 185

shellfish, 188 Terroir, 226-227 Texture, 272 Themes, of contemporary buffets, 256 Thousand Island dressing, 56 Toasting, 20-21 Tomatoes anchovy, tomato, and caper canapés, 113 bacon, heirloom tomato, and beet greens sandwiches, 102 bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwiches, 106 concassé, 19 creamy roasted tomato basil salad dressing, 43 fresh tomato salsa, 58 gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapeno, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 knives for, 12 preparation of, 15, 18-19 Provencal roasted tomatoes with Italian sausage, 203 roasted tomato chutney, 46 roasted tomato vinaigrettes, 47

salsa cruda, 51 spicy lamb, pine nut, and sun-dried tomato sausage, 164 Tuscan bread salad, 87 Tools and equipment in cold kitchens, 12 for garnishes, 267 importance of, 11 knives, L1-12 Torchons, 168 Tourne, 11, 13 Trout smoked, with horseradish butter, chervil, and cucumber canapé, 113 Tuna chirashi sushi (tossed sushi or salad-style sushi), 236 kaku-zukuri (cubed sashimi), 234 salad, 83 seared tuna nicoise salad, 78 spicy tuna and cucumber rolls, 237 tostadas, 206 tuna melt sandwich, 108 Turkey smoked turkey sandwich, with grilled eggplant paste and corn sprouts, 102 Turnip greens, 68

V Vegetables. See a/so specific types bagna cauda and crudités, 240 bundled, 269

carving, 280-282 cooked vegetable salad, 81 crudités, 204 fresh vegetable slaw, 86 gazpacho with seared sea scallops, roasted jalapeno, corn, and lime sour cream, and ham powder, 209 peeling techniques for, 18 pickled, 141 roasted-vegetable pita, 111 sanitation and safety issues, 197 savory fruit or vegetable coulis, 59 vegetable crudités, 204 Vinaigrettes autumn cider, 50 balsamic, 49 blood orange sherry, 47 chenin blanc honey, 42 Chinese, 48 chipotle-cumin, 41 citrus-ginger, 48 as emulsions, 30-32 fines herbes, 51 honey-Dijon, 49 mint-lemon, 47 mustard walnut, 44 roasted tomato, 47 simple, 31, 32 tequila-lime, 50 Index

303

Vinaigrettes (continued) walnut, 49

Wet cures (brines), 121-122 Whey, 214

zinfandel, 52 Visual weight, 273

Worms (equipment), 150 Wraps, 98

W X-Y-Z,

Waldorf salad, 73

X-blade, 150

Wasabi, 225 Watercress, 68

Yin and yang, 225-226

304

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Teaches how to create decorative foods an centerpieces includingfruit, vegetable, ice, tallow and salt dough carving, Also Available Wron Pearson: .

: Ice Carving 101,oo ISBN: 0-1 3- 232845- co Welcome to Gin Sik A CulinaryStudent SurvivalGuideTraster, oe USBI 0-13-135206-7_ a

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