The practice of modern cookery, adapted to the families of distinction, as well as to those of the middling ranks of life. To which is added a glossary of the terms of art

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1037929

THE

PRACTICE

O F

MODERN

COOKER Y.

Gal

4

&Er

THE

PRACTICE

O F

MODERN

COOKERY ;

ADAPTED TO

FAMILIES OF DISTINCTION,

As well as to thoſe of

THE MIDDLING RANKS or LIFE.

To which is added,

A GLOSSARY explaining the TERMS of ART.

Br GEORGE DALRYMPLE, Late Cook to SIR JOHN WHITEFOORD, Bart.

- EDINBURGH :

Printed for the AUTHOR.

Sold by C. ELLIOT, EDINBURGH ; and T. LONGMAN, LONDON. MDCCLXXXI,

TO THE HONOURABLE

LADY

WHITEFOORD ,

THIS TREATISE OF MODERN COOKERY

IS HUMBLY DEDICATED,

AS A SMALL MARK OF RESPECT

FOR HER LADYSHIP'S JUDGMENT ,

AND IN GRATITUDE

FOR THE MANY FAVOURS CONFERRED ON

The AUTHOR,

PRE

FA

C.

E.

IAMperfuaded that this Work will excite the attention of many, especially Cooks ; it is their approbation I have endeavoured to gain.

As to

the little artists of that profeffion, who have too often a felf-fufficient knowledge, their applaufe There are many of or cenfure is alike to me. thefe half-bred gentry that affect to defpife the knowledge received through Juch a channel; although people, eminent in other profeffions, feek with avidity any new publications that treat of Cookery, like most their respective fubjects. other arts, has its theory, which is of effential ufe to a workman who knows how to work by rules laid down to him.

There is a harmony of

compofition (if I may be allowed the expreffion) in Cookery throughout, that the intelligent Cook immediately perceives ; nor can he be blinded by the manypatched- workpieces which have appearGood books on his art are a ed on that fubject. which he can apply at all to him, to repofitory times when deficient or doubtful : and it is to be wifhed that Cooks in general would pay more attention to this circumftance. There are feveral excellent Treatifes publifhed, wherein you fee the Ancient Cookery in a very perfect degree : but I trust that this Work will show the Modern Manner, with its improvements

vi

PREFACE,

provements,

in no defpicable light.

pretend to all the merit myself.

I do not

There are a

number of excellent receipts I have had occafionally from others, which it would have been a pity to have with-held ; and I flatter myſelfthe publication of them will not give offence to their It will be by this means, I hope, that authors. our tables will abound with more elegance, variety, and wholefome viands.

If I ſhall be fo

happy as to fee men of abilities and genius in the profeffion follow this Work, it will be anfwering my intention, and fulfilling my wishes,

THE

THE

PRACTICE

O F

MODERN

COOKERY.

Soupe Sante. Herb Soups .

AKE

of ftrong ftock and gravy a

fufficient quantity to fill your tureen ; add cabbage- lettuce , celery, a little chervil, all cut fmall, a pint of green peaſe or afparagus-tops , cockſcombs

T

ofcarrots ; blanch them in boiling water a few minutes, then ftrain and add them to the ſoup; ftew all together flowly ; when the herbs are near done, add crufts of French rolls ; let it ſtew until the herbs are done, and ferve quite hot. Soupe de Melon. Melon Soup. TAKE aſmall foup- diſh, with as much ſtrong ftock and gravy as will fill your tureen ; put it over a fire, to boil flowly ; then cut your melon in ribs , take out all the feeds, and pare off the rind; then cut it in pieces inch long, put it in a

ſtew-pan with a quarter pound of

fresh butter; then put it over a flow fire for A twenty

1

2

THE

PRACTICE

OF

twenty minutes, ftirring it now and then to keep it from burning ; then ftrain and wipe it with a clean cloth; then put it in a few-pan with a little good ſtock, and ſtew it till tender ; when ready to ferve, put it into your tureen, and add your above ſtock and gravy ; ferve quite hot.

Soupe à la Regby. Soup Rigby-fashion .

PUT a few-pan or pot over the fire with as much good ſtock and gravy as you intend for foup ; pick and wash a good handful of forrel, as much chervil , a dozen cabbage- lettuces ; mince them together very fine, fqueeze them very dry, then put them in a ſtew- pan with 1 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; give them a good fry over a middling fire, then add them to the ftock ; when it boils , fkim the fat very well off ; let it boil flowly för half an hour ; make a liafon with the yolks of ten eggs, and half a pint of cold broth beat. very well together ; when ready to fervé, add your liafon ; keep it ftirring the fame as a fricafee ; take great care it does not boil, other? wife it will curdle ; feafon with falt to your palate ; ferve quite hot . N. B. It is to be underſtood that all the liquids are English meaſure. Bouillon à la bâte. Broth made in hafte. CUT fmall flices of fillet of veal, lean meat of beef, celery, fliced onions , a couple of turnips, three or four cloves ; garniſh the bottom of a ſtew-pan with a few flices of lard ; then

put

MODERN COOKERY.

3

put in the meat and roots, foak it on a middling fire, until the meat begins to catch at the bottom ofthe pan ; then pour fome boiling water on it, and let it boil fmartly about half an hour or more ; add ſalt, ſkim it, and fift it clear for uſe. N. B. I uſe the words " flices of lard ," for fhortnefs, of larding bacon ; and it is to be underſtood as of bacon prepared for kitchen uſe. Bouillon au Bain-marie. Broth made with one Pot boiling in another. PUT an earthen pot into a large one with boiling water ; cut flices of beef, fillet of veal, half a fowl or capon ſkinned , a large onion ftuck with cloves, a few bits of roots ; boil it in that manner for five or fix hours , taking care to ſupply the firft pot with boiling water pretty often, and fome of the firft broth in the brothpot ; ſkim it very clean, fift it through a lawn fieve; it ought to be ſtrong enough to cool to the confiftence of a jelly. N. B. The French ufe this method with earthen veffels , which are not common in this country, that will ftand the fire for this purpoſe ; but copper ones will anſwer the fame, with care .

Confommé. Jelly Broth . PUT in your pot or ſtew-pan flices of beef, a fillet of veal , a fowl, one or two partridges, according to the quantity required ; put it on the fire without liquid until it catches a little ; and A 2

4

THE

PRACTICE OF

and turn the meat now and then , to give it proper colour ; then add fome good clear boiling broth, and ſcalded roots, as carrots, turnips, parfnips, parfley- roots, celery, large onions , a few cloves, a fmall bit of nutmeg, whole pepper ; boil it upon a flow fire about four or five hours with attention , and add a few cloves of garlick or ſhallot, a ſmall fagot or bunch of parfley and thyme tied together ; when it is of a good colour, fift it ; it ferves for fauces, and to add ftrength to your foups, particularly thofe made of herbs or Italian paſte. N. B. I am very fenfible that many peo→

ple (more particularly in the country) have an averfion to the taſte or fmell of garlick ; I nevertheleſs prefume to fay, that its effects are very good when ufed with moderation , and will make either hot or cold difhes very agreeable,

as

experience

will

fhow:

tafte

muft direct, which no cookery can be good without.

Roumiftec. Jelly-broth of all Fragments . WHEN you work for a great entertainment, you may make a good confommé very cheap, by gathering all kind of parings and trimmings, as legs , pinions and bones of poultries, and of fuch game as you employ, alſo parings of butchers meat ; put all together in a ſtew-pan, as the laft ; foak it fome time ; then add fome or boiling water, one or two

fmall broth,

glaffes of white wine , a good quantity of par→ fley,

MODERN COOKERY.

5

fley, chibbal, two laurel- leaves and thyme, a little ſweet bafil, few cloves of garlick, two or three fpice - cloves , and fift it for uſe ; it will ferve to add ſtrength to all made diſhes and fauces. The name of roumeftec is given to confommé when made moftly of game. Bouillon rafraichiffant. Cooling Broth. THE

herbs, fruits, or feeds,

flowers

or

roots , which are employed for cooling broth , are purflain, lettuce, chervil, borrage, burnet, forrel, garden and wild endives , buglofs , hoptops, gofs-lettuces, young nettles , cucumbers, tips of elder, dandelion , liver- wort, fumitory, beet-roots , & c . wash and chop what quantity is proper and according to order, and boil a fhort time in thin veal or chicken broth; fift, and keep it in a cool place ; warm it for ufe without boiling.

Autre Bouillon rafraichiffant.. Another cooling Broth. TAKE a calf's liver ;

cut out the gall,

and

all the fleſh round it ; then cut it in thin flices, and boil it in a quart of water till it is reduced to half; then add a little chervil, water- creffes , wild endive and burnet, all carefully chopped ; boil it a few minutes, and fift it for ufe. Bouillon Printanier.

Spring Broth .

PUT a cruft of bread, and a good bit of butter, in a foup-pot or ftew-pan, two or three handfuls of herbs, as beet, forrel , cherA 3 vil,

6

THE

PRACTICE

OF

vil , lettuces, leeks, purflain, all well washed and coarſely chopped ; boil in a quart of water till reduced to half; fift it for uſe.

Bouillon pour adoucir l'Acreté du Sang. Broth to ſweeten the Sharpneſs of the Blood . SLICE half a pound of veal ; boil it in three pints of water, with five or fix craw-fish pounded alive ; add to it white endives , a ſmall handful

of chervil, and as much purflain ,

three or four lettuces, all coarfely chopped ; reduce the liquid to half, and ſtrain it through a cloth or ftamine, without ſkimming it. Eau de Poulet.

Chicken -water.

BOIL a well- drawn chicken in three pints river-water ; put in the body one ounce and a 1 half of the cold feeds, firft pounded in a mortar ; boil it till reduced to a quart, then You may make alſo another chickenfift it. water, where you add half an ounce of rice, as much pearl- barley, the bigneſs of a walnut of fugar for thoſe that like it ſweet .- The four greater cold feeds are water-melons , cucumbers, gourds, and melons ; the four leffer , fuccory, endives, lettuces, and purflain. Panade des Blanes de Poulards. Panada of Breafts of Fowls.

BOIL a little crumb in fome good broth ; add to it a couple of breafts of fowls roafted, and pounded very fine ; fift all together in a cloth,

MODERN COOKERY .

7

cloth, with ftrong preffing ; put broth according to the confiftence you would have it. Panade de Greveau.

Grits Panada.

WASH two ounce of fresh grits in warm water feveral times, and boil it in a quart of water till the liquid is reduced to about a pint ; then fift it as the former, and add a ſpoonful of white-wine and a bit of fugar to it ; boil it a moment before uſing . Panade a la Burgogne. Burgundy Panada . BOIL two or three ounces of rice very tender in thin broth , firſt well waſhed ; then fift it as the laft ; it ought not to be very thin nor thick ; then add the yolk of an egg beat up, to thicken it on the fire without boiling.

This

A panada is alfo is called making a liafon. made of bread-crumbs inftead of rice, and finished in the fame manner. N. B. As the word liafon will often be repeated hereafter, it is to be underſtood in the fenfe of cookery, as conglutinating the different liquids together with which it is mixed, and always to be done without boiling . fus de Boeuf.

Beef Gravy.

ACCORDING to the quantity wanted, cut flices of lean beef, which you put in a fewpan , with fliced onions, and roots of all forts fit for broth , a few bits of lard, or other fat meat, two ſpoonfuls of fat broth ; foak this on A4

8

THE PRACTICE OF

on a flow fire about half an hour, turning the whole two or three times ; let it catch a proper colour, then add thin broth as directed for mitonage, and finish it as the former. Always obferve, that in all gravies you muſt put a little fat, and to take it off the fire when you add the broth .

After it is properly co-

loured , your own judgment muſt guide you for the colour, which is done by the catching with proper care, not to give it a burnt taſte.

Coulis general.

General Cullis.

GARNISH the bottom of your ſtew- pan with flices of veal fillet , bits of ham , according to the quantity and goodneſs required ; and upon the meat two or three carrots fliced, one parfnip the fame, a few onions ſtuck with cloves, two or three heads of celery, a ſpoonful of fat broth : foak it on a flow fire, until the meat gives its juice ; then on a ſtronger fire, until it forms a fine brown caramel, viz . a glaze at bottom and round the ſtew- pan ; then take all out except the caramel ; put the pan on the fire again, with a bit of butter worked with flour,

and ftir it continually

with a ſpoon until it is of a fine yellowish colour ; take proper care the fire is not too violent to give it a burnt taſte ; then add as much broth and gravy as will keep it of a proper colour and confiftence, meaning not very thick nor clear ; then put the meat back again , and fimmer it a long while ; fkim it often : when the meat is throroughly done, take it out with a

MODERN COOKERY.

9

a ſkimmer, and fift the cullis in a lawn fieve, or a fifting cloth, without expreffing.

Coulis de ce que l'on veut.

Cullis of what you pleaſe. THIS is made with any fort of meat, parings and trimmings of poultries, game, &c. as pinions, necks , ftumps, and flices of veal with it ; and finiſhed as the laſt. Coulis d'Ecreviffes . Craw- fifh Cullis. THE firſt preparation of this cullis is the fame as the general cullis : when the glaze is formed in the ftew-pan, add broth according to the quantity required ; trim the tails off half a hundred of craw-fifh, pound the infide bodies, and dry the carcafes on the fire, or in the oven, to pound with the reft ; fift the cullis through a fieve,

when properly

pounded ; fift all together in a cloth ftrainer, with expreffion. This cullis will ferve in whatever you think proper ; the tails ferve to gar niſh foup or ragouts. Meager cullis is done the fame, ufing meager broth, carps, or any other kind of fish.

N. B. The French uſe three different names to fignify much the fame thing, viz . Cullis, confommé, and reftaurant. The firft is the thinneft, and is often made with a little flour, butter, and broth, for the fake of giving a proper colour to any fauce , excepting thoſe cullifes made of roots or feeds, which I have diſtinguiſhed by the name of porridges and

10.

THE

and purée.

PRACTICE OF

The fecond is ftronger of meat,

and is for the purpoſe of adding goodneſs and The ftrength to whatever it is mixed with . laft is for the fame purpoſe, and made as rich in taſte and flavour, as meat, poultry, game, and proper ſeaſoning, can make it, from which This is the it has the name of Reftorative. true foundation

of cookery,

and

wherein

every one ought to be as perfect as poffible. Coulis á la Reine. Queen's Cullis . PREPARE a ftew-pan for this as all others , with flices of fillet of veal , a few flices of ham, and roots ; foak it on a flow fire without letting it catch at bottom ; then put to it fome broth ofa natural colour ; you may alfo put half an old fowl, or a whole one, to give it more ſtrength ; fimmer it as all former cullis ; pound one or two breaſts of roaſted fowls or chickens, with a handful of ſweet- almonds ſcalded , a few hard yolks of eggs , bread- crumbs foaked in broth ; mix all together in the mortar,

and ftrain it in a ftamine, rubbing it

hard with a wooden fpoon ; you may add a little cream, to give it a finer white : this is often uſed, and ought always to be warmed as the liaſon, without boiling, and the fame with every thing where eggs are part of the compofition . Coulis de Jambon.

Ham Cullis .

THIS is done with flices of veal fillet, and ham fufficient to give a pretty ftrong tafte ; add

MODERN COOKERY.

II

add all forts of roots ; give it the fame colour as the general cullis ; then add broth without falt,

a

glass

of white- wine,

thyme and parſley,

a nofegay of-

half a laurel - leaf, one

clove garlic, a few muſhrooms and fhallots. Finifh as ufuat.

Coulis Bourgeois. A Family Cullis . TAKE a piece of butter rolled in flour ; ftir it in your ftew-pan till the flour takes a fine yellow colour ; then add ſmall broth , a little gravy, a glaſs of white-wine, a noſegay of parſley, thyme, laurel , fweet-bafil, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a few muſhrooms, whole pepper and falt ; boil for an hour on a flow fire ; fift it in a lawn fieve , well fkimmed from fat. This cullis is made i either with meat or fish broth, according as you pleaſe.

Coulis blanc à la Bourgeois . White Family-Cullis . POUND about a dozen of coriander-feeds , with half a dozen bitter almonds ſcalded , and mix it with bread- crumbs foaked in good broth, and broth fufficient to make it of what conſiſtence you pleaſe ; fift it in a lawn fieve ; add four raw yolks of eggs beat up with cream . Make the liafon without boiling. Coulis de Féves de Marais. Cullis of Garden-beans. SCALD the beans , to peel the huſks off; and then

12

THE

PRACTICE OF

then boil them in broth to a maſh, with parſley, afew green ſhallots , a little winter-ſavory ; then fift them to marmalade , and mix it with middling meat cullis ; it ought to be of a pale green colour, well-feafoned , and not too thick, as all thofe cullifes thicken greatly in cooling. Coulis de Lentilles.

Lentil Cullis .

MAKE a meat gravy as before, with veal and ham , onions , celery, parſley, a few cloves , and winter favory ; foak it till it catches ; then add broth, and fimmer it till the meat is done ; then your lentils being well boiled in broth , and pounded, fift them, and put the porridge in the ſtew-pan, and boil a moment ; then take the meat out, and fift your cullis in a ftamine. It is a very well-tafted cullis ; don't make it too thick.

Coulis de Pois.

Peafe Cullis .

GREEN peaſe cullis is made by boiling the peaſe in good broth , with a little parfley, onions, and a little winter-favory ; fift them in porridge with the broth of the boiling : dried peaſe are equally boiled in broth, and fifted into a porridge, and mixed in cullis , fuch as you have for the former ; to make it green, add juice of pounded fpinach. Coulis de Marons.

Chefnut Cullis .

PREPARE your ftew-pan with fliced veal and ham as before ; peel the firft huſk off your chefnuts, and roaft them until you can peel off the

MODERN COOKERY.

13

the fecond ; boil in broth to a marmalade ; take the

meat out

of your confommè,

add the

chefnuts ; boil a fhort time , and fift all together ; if you would have it pretty thick, put lefs broth to keep it of a thicker conſiſtence . As more repetition would become tedious , I fhall only fay, that with a ſmall notion of cookery,

cullis of any roots,

or feeds , are

moſtly made upon the fame principle, fuch as carrots , turnips , white beans, & c. which are all very uſeful for foups , particularly in winter, when herbs are ſcarce and of very little taſte.

Des Bouillons, Jus, and Coulis maigre. Of Meager Broths, Gravies, and Čullis . FOR the common or ſoaking broth, waſh a proper quantity of dried peaſe in ſeveral warm waters ; then boil them in water with a few large onions , fliced carrots, parfnips, a few cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; boil theſe together till the peaſe are throughly done ; then take it off the fire, and fift it through a fieve with expreffion ; the liquor being much reduced,

mix it with meager cullis ,

and fift

again through a ftrainer : this will ferve you . for the fame purpoſe, as the first directed, to fimmer your foups and fauces, and herbs as you like .

adding butter

Bouillon Maigre pour les Potages de la Table. Meager Broth for Soups.

SCALD all forts of roots, as onions, parfleyroots, carrots, parfnips, half a favoy, turnips, leeks ,

14

THE

PRACTICE

OF

leeks, celery ; boil all together, as directed above ; put in a little bag, called a minionettecloth, a little long pepper, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, mace, a clove of garlick , fhallots, winter-favory ;

boil till the greens

are done, and to give it a good colour ; make a brown gravy with ſtewed onions, other roots , and butter ; when it yields a proper colour as in all cullis , falt it according to tafte, mix it together,

let all boil

till

throughly done ,

ftrain it through a flamine ; it will ferve to make what foups you pleaſe. Bouillon de Poiffon . Fish Broth .

TAKE what fiſh you think proper, as pikes , eels , carps, & c . cut in flices, and put them in your ſtew-pan with a little butter, fliced onions, a nofegay of parfley, thyme, bayleaf, bafil, a clove of garlick, carrots, parfnips; foak it until it form a flight glaze in the bottom ; add to it from the former broth , and boil on a flow fire for about an hour ; fift it: it will ferve for foups or fauces. Jus Maigre. Meager Gravy. MELT a proper quantity ofgood butter, and fry fliced onions in it, with fuch other roots as are uſed for gravies ; foak it for fome time on a flow fire, then on a' ftronger to bring it to a proper gravy colour ; then add fome of the common broth, and a little parſley, half a clove of garlick , half a laurel leaf, three cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; boil flowly for about

MODERN COOKERY.

15

about an hour, then fift it as uſual for gravies. Coulis Maigre. Meager Cullis.

TAKE what fish you think proper, the beſt and moſt common is carps, cut in large pieces , and put in your ſtew-pan with a little butter, fliced onions, and other roots ; foak it a while on a flow fire, then on a ſtronger, until it form a caramel ; then put half broth and half gravy, fry fome flour with good butter, and add it to your cullis , alſo a clove of garlick, half a laurel-leaf, a gill of white- wine, a couple flices of lemon firſt peeled , muſhrooms ; boil half an hour on a flow fire ; fkim it well before you fift it : if you defire a fimple cullis , make a caramel with flour and butter ; when it is of a good colour , add broth and onion-gravy fufficient to colour it ; add fome muſhrooms , parſley, garlick, thyme, fweet-bafil , a glaſs of white-wine ; boil for an hour on a flow fire, and fift it.

Coulis d'Onion en Maigre. Onion Cullis Meager. SLICE a good many onions , and ſet them on a briſk fire, with a piece of good butter, till it catches ; add two fpoonfuls of flour, which you ftir continually till it is of a proper colour ; then put to it broth, a glaſs of white-wine, two or three cloves, a bay leaf, thyme, and bafil ; boil it for an hour, fkim it well, and falt it according to taſte.

Coulis

16

/

THE

PRACTICE

or

Coulis Maigre á la Reine. Queen's Cullis Meager. CUT a carp in large pieces , and onions ; foak it with good butter on a flow fire ; when the carp is ready to catch, put to it fome broth of a natural colour, and boil on a flow fire ; foak fome crumbs of bread in cream , and pound a dozen of fweet-almonds, with half as many hard yolks of eggs , and a few fillets of boiled fish ; fift your extract of carps ; mix all together, and fift it again : it muſt never boil after when you uſe it.

Coulis Maigre de Navets . Turnip Cullis Meager. PEEL and cut as many turnips, each in four or five pieces, as you require of Cullis ; if you would have it of a brown colour, fry them fome time in butter ; if for a natural colour,

boil

them, without frying, in common broth, to a marmalade , the fame if coloured ; then mix this with fiſh gravy and cullis, and fift it in a ftamine as all thick cullis ; it ferves for foups or any uſes. Lentil cullis is made after the former direction, only obferving the difference of broth, & c. Coulis de Poi Maigre. Meager Peafe Cullis .

BOIL green peafe in fish-broth, and a nofegay of parsley, onions, and winter -favory ; when well done, pound them, and fift with the

MODERN COOKERY.

17

the broth of their boiling, and add a little gravy . White beans cullis is made after the fame direction . All roots, feeds , and herbs, may be done after the fame manner, to the confiftence of cullis .

Potage á la fom-bonne en Gras et en Maigre, Soup of all forts of Herbs, with Meat or without.

BOIL all forts of roots, as onions , carrots, turnips, celery, leeks , two cloves of garlick, all together, about a quarter of an hour ; then drain , and put them in a foup-pot, with a proper quantity of very good broth, and about a pint of dry peaſe tied loofe in a cloth ; boil flowly until the peaſe are done tender, which maſh and fift as peafe-cullis with the broth , and fimmer in a fmall foup-pot with young lettuces, forrel, chervil , one carrot and one parfnip cut ſmall ; add a little gravy to colour and ſtrengthen it ; let the roots and greens be done very tender ; fimmer the cruft of two French rolls in a little of the fame broth ; pour it firſt in the diſh . Prepare it after the fame manner for meager, ufing butter and fifhbroth, and gravy . Potage de Ris á Pluche, en Gras ou Maigre, A Rice-foup of both forts , pale-green . WASH half a pound of rice more or leſs, in warm water feveral times ; if for gras , boil it in meat-broth, and a little melted lard ; B if

THE

18

PRACTICE

of

if for meager, with faid broth and butter ; ftir it often, that it may not clog at the bottom of the pan ; when it is very tender, add a proper quantity of very good broth and gravy , and melt a good bit of butter and flour, a fmall quantity of fine chopped parſley firſt ſcalded , three or four ſpoonfuls of broth, two yolks of eggs to make a liafon without boiling, and pour this in the diſh upon the rice.

Potage de Chapon au Ris. A Capon or Fowl Rice -foup . TRUSS the capon or fowl as for boiling, and leave the pinions ; boil it in a ſmall ſouppot , with about half a pound ofrice ; boil flowly till the rice is quite tender, without ſkimming the fat off ; add gravy fufficient to colour and ftrengthen it, and a little falt ; or ferve without gravy, the fowl in the middle . A fowl is alfo ferved, being boiled with a few flices of beef, veal, mutton, and roots, the broth fifted ; fimmer the bread with fome of this broth, with or without herbs ; ferve the fowl in the foupdish : All forts of boiled poultries are done enough, when they

feel tender

under the

finger. This is called foupfanté au naturel, viz. plain. Potage à la Conty en Gras au Maigre. Soup Conty, Meat or Fiſh. SLICE large onions , according to the quantity required, and fimmer them in butter till they are throughly done, and fimmer fried bread

MODERN COOKERY.

19

bread in very good broth of either fort ; when ready to ſerve, mix a couple of pounded anchovies with the onions ; pour the broth and bread in the difh, and the onions upon it : you may alſo fift the onions as a cullis , either for foups , or other uſes . Potage de Biberot au Fromage. Cheeſe-foup of both forts. TAKE about half a pound of bread - crumbs fifted in a cullender, and about a quarter of a pound of Swiſs or Parmefan cheeſe ; fimmer this together in a few-pan with good broth, either meager or gras, until the bread and cheeſe are well ftewed ; make a liafon in anoother pan with three or four yolks of eggs , and as many ſpoonfuls of broth ;

when ready to

ſerve, mix this laft with the firft without boiling. This foup moft not be very clear nor thick ; it fhould be made with broth without falt, as

the cheeſe may falt it fufficiently ;

your judgement muſt always guide you for ſeaſoning.

Potages glacés de tous forts de Viandes. Glazed Soups of all forts of Meat . USE what forts of meats or poultries you pleaſe, as fowls, chickens, pigeons , ducks , lamb, fmall fillet of veal , neck of mutton , turkey-pinions , & c. each kind is dreffed after the fame manner ; which ever you uſe, lard it, and fcald it a moment in boiling water ; then ftew it in good broth, a nofegay offweet -herbs , and B 2

20

THE

PRACTICE

OF

and fimmer the bread in very good broth , as ufual for other foups ; when the meat

is

thoroughly done, ferve it in the diſh or tureen ; put a ſpoonful of broth in the few-pan to gather the

glaze of the fricandeau with

which you glaze, the larded fide, being uppermoft ; garnish the difh round with herbs or roots as moft convenient , and fift fome of the glaze with the broth to colour it. Potage de Vermicel en Gras et en Maigre. Vermicelly Soup, with Meat or Fish.

FOR a middling dish, take about a quarter of a pound of vermicelly, which you feald a moment in boiling water ; then drain it, and boil in good broth and gravy, and a bit of bacon ; when boiled tender, take out the bacon , ſeaſon it with falt, and fkim the fat off very clean ; it must be ſerved of a middling confiftence . If you would make it of craw-fifh cullis , or any other, you will only mix it a moment before you ferve : if it is for meagre, fcald your vermicelly as above, and boil it with fish-broth and butter; adding a liafon of yolks of eggs , made with the fame broth and gravy . Soupe Burgeoife. A Family Soup. BOIL about three pounds of beef in three pints ofwater, and fkim it well ; then add three or four carrots , two parfnips, a few onions, according to their bignefs, ftuck with two cloves, a few leeks, a lettuce, celery, forrel,, and a fmall knuckle of veal firft fcalded ; boil all

MODERN COOKERY.

21

all together about two hours ; ferve your broth and the knuckle of veal in it .

Potage au Marons. Chefnut Soup. ROST the chefnuts fufficiently to peel off the huſks ; boil them in broth and gravy ; when they are done, take out the few that remain whole ; and mafh the others in your broth, fit to fift in a ftamine ; ferve without boiling, and garniſh the diſh with the whole ones .

Potage d'Aigneau au Coulis á la Reine. Lamb's-head Soup and all purtenances , with Queen's Cullis . TAKE a lamb's-head , & c. well fcalded , and pared properly ; boil in a fmall foup - pot , with two flices of lemon firft peeled , a nofegay of parfley and green onions , three cloves , a laurelleaf,

two carrots,

one parfnip, three whole

onions, a few flices of lard and ſalt ; boil in broth and water on a flow fire ; open the head, and ferve it in the middle ; mix fome queens cullis with the broth,

and add it to the foup.

Potage á la Chartre. Chartre Soup. TAKE three or four ſweetbreads well cleaned in warm water, and fcalded in boiling ; put them in your pot with fcalded cockfcombs , a faggot of parsley, green fhallots , three cloves , afew muſhrooms ; ftew all with good broth on a flow fire ; have crufts of rolls well foaked in broth in the foup-dish ; then put upon this the fweetB 3

THE

22

PRACTICE

OF

ſweetbreads and muſhrooms and cockſcombs ; add a fufficient quantity of broth . Bifque de Caills. A Quail Tureen Soup. BOIL three or four quails in good broth, with a few flices of lard ; and two fcalded fweetbreads in another ftew-pan with a little butter and flour, broths and gravy, and a little cullis, a faggot of parfley and onions , two cloves ; ftew it till well done ; when the quails are alſo done, mix all together with their broth first fifted and very free from fat ; put it on a ſtronger fire, to bring it to a middling confiftence ; add broth and gravy as need requires . Potage Julienne Gras et Maigre, Julienne Soup with Meat or Fiſh.

CUT in fmall flices two carrots, a head of I celery, lettuces, forrel, and chervil ; boil them in a ſmall pot, with good broth and gravy ; add three whole onions, a whole carrot, a faggot

of parsley and green onions , two cloves , a laurel leaf ; fimmer about two hours ,

then take out the faggot, onions , and whole roots . It is done the fame for meager, uſing the broth, gravy, and butter. Potage de different Purée. Soups of different Porridge.

THAT of lentils is made by boiling them in broth or gravy with a few roots and a nofegay as the former, only adding a little winterfavory ;

1

MODERN COOKERY.

23

favory ; when the lentils are done, fift them , and put as much of the porridge to your foup or broth as will give it a proper confiftence. That of turnips , carrots, beans , & c . is done the fame.

Potage de Semouill. Italian Paſte Soup. BOIL your femouill as you do rice, in good broth of either fort ; add as much gravy as will give it a good taſte and colour.

It is a

paſte that comes from Italy : you must chooſe it by taſting,

as it is apt to be mufty like

vermicelly. Potage á la Dauphine.

Dauphine Soup.

PUT a few flices of lard in the bottom of your ftew- pan, fliced ham and veal, three onions fliced, a carrot and a parſnip ; foak over the fire till it catches ; then add weak broth or boiling water, boil it on a flow fire till the meat is done ; pound the breaſt of a roaſted fowl, fix yolks of hard eggs, as many fweetalmonds ; fift your broth, and add enough to your pounded compound as will fift it with a ftamine ; foak your bread till tender in broth ; warm your cullis without boiling, and mix it with as much broth as gives it a pretty thick confiftence : you may garnish this foup with a fowl, or knuckle of veal,

as in all white

foups. Potage de Gibier. Game Soup. CUT in pieces either partridge, pheaſant, or B 4

24

THE

PRACTICE

OF

or a rabbit ; foak it with flices of veal ,

ham ,

onions , carrots , and parfnips ; let it catch a little on a flow fire, as you do for gravy ; then add fome good broth according to the quantity you defire ; boil eafy till the meat is done ; fift the broth, and put it in your ſoup-pot, and ftew in it what herbs you pleaſe . Potage de toutes fortes de Croutes. Soup of all forts of Cruft. CUT two rolls in two, take out the crumb, foak the cruft in broth, place them upon the crumbs in your foup-pot, put to it ſome fat broth over a flow fire ; let the crufts catch at bottom ; take care to refreſh the cruft often with broth

when it is all of a maſh confiſt-

ence, and no broth to be ſeen , keep it on a very flow fire ; take care it does not catch too much to give it a burnt tafte ; when ready to ferve, add good broth and gravy, with whatever cullis you pleaſe . Obferve, if you intend a white foup, you must not brown your cruft, nor let it catch at bottom .

Potage á la Parme. Parma Soup.

CUT flices of bread in what ſhape you pleaſe , fry them in lard or butter of a good colour, foak it in good broth or gravy, put in the diſh what herbs you pleafe ; when ready to ſerve, raſp Parmeſan cheeſe over it. Potage á l'Autriche. Auftrian Soup. CUT a large chicken in pieces, give it colour

1

MODERN COOKERY.

25

lour with frying in butter and ſweet- herbs ; then boil it in good broth ; then roll it in crumbs of bread and Parmefan cheeſe ; colour it in the oven, or with a falamander; put in the foupdiſh thin flices of bread ; upon this fome rafpt Swiſs cheeſe or Parmeſan ; then a bed of cabbage,

with more flices of bread ; add your

broth, ftew it till it catches a little at bottom , add a little more cheeſe upon the bread, colour it with a falamander, add more broth, and ſerve the chicken on the top. N. B. The cabbage muſt be boiled .

Garbure. A Turine with different forts of Meat.

TAKE a good piece of ham, fiices of lard and beef, two legs of a goofe ; let it catch a little until the meat has taken colour ; then add broth, four onions, carrots , celery, a green cabbage firft fcalded in boiling water ; boil it on a flow fire till the meat is done, put it in the bottom of your ftew-pan , foak it with fome of your faid broth until it catches ; put upon it the ham and legs of the goofe, and broth fufficient only to keep it of a thick fubftance . Potage de Macaroni.

Macaroni Soup.

BOIL it in good broth ; then lay a bed of it in the bottom of your foup-difh , then one of Parmefan cheeſe, the fame over two or three times, add a little broth ; ftew it on a flow fire, and colour it with a falamander ; then add what quantity of broth you think proper. N. B.

•

26

THE

PRACTICE

OF

N. B. Good mild Cheſhire cheeſe, to fave Parmeſan, will anſwer very well ; where you have not a proper foup -diſh or tureen for the above, you muſt uſe a ſtew-pan .

Potage á la Mufquetaire. Soup for a good Stomach , viz . Military . TAKE a pint of green peaſe , and a handful of forrel ; boil in your broth and gravy on a flow fire ; in it a neck of mutton ; which when done, glaze it as a fricandeau , and ſerve it all together. Potage á la Marquife.

An Epicure's Soup.

TAKE a large roll, empty the crumbs , and fill it with a ragout of fweet-breads , cockſcombs , artichokes bottoms , all well dreffed ; put this roll in the middle of your diſh with other ſmall crumbs , and foak it with very good broth ; let it catch a little, and mix it with very good cullis á la reine and broth. Potage á la Rhinoceros, Pigeon Soup, called Rhinoceros from an Indian Bird.

1 TAKE three pigeons , trufs them for boiling, run a ſmall ſkiver through the head and neck to keep it bent upwards ; fcald and boil them in veal -gravy, with herbs and roots cut fmall as for foup julienne ; ftew all together on a flow fire till done, and ſeaſon it well ; put the pigeons in your foup-dish upon the breaſts, the heads above, to appear as fwimming. Potage

MODERN COOKERY.

27

Potage de Navets á l'Italienne, Turnip Soup Italian faſhion , Meat or Fiſh .

CUT turnips in what ſhape you pleaſe ; colour them with lard or butter in a stew-pan, and too fpoonfuls of oil ; add flices of roots as before, and boil them in good broth and gravy, either meat or fish ; give it a confiftence with any fort of porridge . Quille au bain-marie . Hodgepodge of all forts of meat. TAKE an earthen pot well fcalded ; put in it four pound fliced beef, one pound of loin of mutton, two pound of fillet of veal, one partridge, one fowl , four large onions , two carrots, three cloves ; boil , or more properly ſtew, in a quart of water ; make a flour and water paſte to put round the cover to ſtop the ſteam ; make it fimmer in another pot for fix hours ; take care to fupply the firſt pot with boiling water, to keep the other conftant ftewing ; then fift the broth in a fieve, let it fettle, then fift it through a lawn fieve, and ferve meat and broth together in a tureen. N. B. All butchers meat and poultries may be done in the fame way, and equally good , without an earthen pot boiling in another, taking proper care to keep the ſteam in your pot or ftew-pan, when it is well fkimmed and ſtewed on a very flow fire.

Potage

28

THE

PRACTICE

OF

Potage á la Creffy. Soup Creffy. SLICE all forts of roots ; ſtew them in good butter, with flices of ham and veal ; let them ſtew in the butter as long as poffibly you can , without letting them burn ; then add fome good broth ; let it boil till your roots are become like a marmalade, then preſs it through a ftamine or cullis cloth , add as much broth as neceffary for your quantity of foup : if for meager, inſtead of veal and ham , uſe carps or pike, and meager broth. Potage de Lazagne. Lazagne Soup. LAZAGNE is an Italian paſte, which we call in this country " flat macarony ; " wash it well, and boil it in broth like rice, with a little falt, then ſtrain it into a cullender ; lay in the bottom of your difh a bed of Lazagne and a few bits butter, then Parmefan or Grewiere cheeſe, viz. Swifs, then Lazagne,

and

then cheeſe, until the difh is full enough ; the laft bed ought to be cheeſe : put it in the oven, or cover it with the top of a brazing pan or Dutch oven ; make it take a good colour ; add as much good broth as will fill your difh. Soupe Maigre de differentes façons. Meager Soup of different forts .

MAKE a foaking broth as directed in meager broth ; with this broth you make all forts of meager foups, it is the different forts of herbs and roots that give its name : according to

MODERN COOKERY.

29

to the quantity of foup you want, ſcald and ftew them in good broth and butter ; when done, add what quantity of broth you pleaſe ; take care it does not taſte too ftrong of the herbs : this foup muſt be clear and well feafoned. For a julienne meager, cut in ſmall flices a carrot, a head of celery, chervil , and forrel ,

half-fried in butter ;

then add them

to the broth, and a little onion-gravy ; when the herbs are done, foak your bread in ſome of the fame broth, garniſh your diſh with ſome of the roots, and ſerve it up. N. B. In the ſpring add a little fugar to take off the bitterneſs of the herbs .

Potage Maigre d'Ecreviffe au Ris . Meager Craw-fifh Soup and Rice. SOAK a carp cut in pieces, with a little butter, carrots , onions , and parfnips ; let it catch very little ; then add meager broth, and fimmer till the fiſh is done ; pound the bodies of half a hundred craw-fiſh, and keep the tails to garniſh fome broth to your pounding to enable you to fift it in a ſtamine ; the rice being in broth and butter, mix it all together without boiling. N. B. What is meant by garniſhing your

foup-diſh or tureen, is to intermix in the foupdiſh or tureen fuch things as are directed for garniſhing. Potage á la Purée verte. Meager Green Peaſe-porridge Soup.

STEW a quart of green peaſe with parſley and

THE

30

PRACTICE OF

and onions, a little butter and broth ;. when done, math and fift them through a ftamine ; foak your porridge with good broth . If dried peafe, take fpinnage juice to make it green .

Potage Maigre á la Purée de Lentilles. Lentil Soup- meager. RUB the bottom

of your ſtew-pan with

butter, and put in it fliced onions, carrots , parfnips, a little winter-favory , a clove of garlick, two cloves, and a few muſhrooms ; foak on a flow fire till it catches ; then add broth , and boil half an hour : your lentils being well boiled and fifted in a ftamine, fift the broth and mix the porridge with it : warm without boiling.

Potage maigre de Ris á la Reine. Queen's Rice Soup- meager. TAKE half a pound of rice well waſhed in warm water ; boil it tender in broth and butter ; make a gravy without colouring, with carp, onions, carrots, and parfnips ; when it is ready to catch, add broth, and boil it fome time, then fift it ; pound a dozen ſweet -almonds with fix hard yolks of eggs, a few bits of boiled fish,

crùmbs of bread foaked in

milk or cream ; mix all together with the gravy, and fift it through a ftamine. Warm it without boiling, and ferve this cullis upon the rice .

Bifque

MODERN COOKERY.

3r

Bifque maigre aux Ecreviffe. Meagre Craw-fiſh Tureen. MAKE a craw-fiſh cullis , as directed in page 9th for craw-fifh foup ; take the tails , which you put in a ſtew- pan, with carp- liver, artichokes bottoms firſt ſcalded in boiling water, ſome muſhrooms , and a little butter ; foak it a while, then add broth, and boil for half an hour : foak your bread in a little broth in another ftew-pan, until it catches a little at bottom ; then put to it the carp- liver , craw-fiſh tails, artichokes, muſhrooms , and the broth : boil a fhort time ; then mix with it as much craw-fish cullis ftance.

as will give it a good ſub-

Potage de Lait d'Amande. Almond Milk Soup. BOIL in water a little cinnamon , lemonpeel,

coriander-feed , a little falt and fugar,

which you mix with almonds well pounded and fifted feveral times in a ftamine ; foak your bread with fome of the milk on a flow fire, then add the reſt, and ſerve as hot as you can. Des Sauces.

Of SAUCES .

N. B. This is where true tafte fhews itſelf, and muſt meet with approbation or condemnation. As all boiled meats , ftewed or brazed, are to be made reliſhing with the addition of a well-timed good fauce, and as it is abſolutely impoffible to direct quantities fo minutely as to agree

}

THE PRACTICE

32

OF

agree with different palates, I fhall ſtrongly of either fex,

recommend to all cooks

to

keep their ftomachs free from ftrong liquors , and noſes from ſnuff.

Sauce Nonpareil (unequal) .

Nonpareil Sauce.

TAKE a bit of boiled ham, as much breaſt of roafted fowl, a pickled cucumber, a hard yolk of an egg, one anchovy, a little parfley, a head of fhallot chopt as fine as poffible ; boil a moment in good cullis , and uſe it for meat or fish . Sauce á la Nivernois.

Nivernois Sauce.

PUT in a ſmall ftew-pan two flices of ham, a clove of garlick, a laurel- leaf, fliced onions , and roots ; let it catch ; then add a little broth, two ſpoonfuls of cullis , a fpoonful of Taragon vinegar; ftew it an hour on a flow fire, then fift it through a fieve, and ſerve it for a reliſhing fauce. Sauce petite Italienne. A little Italian Sauce. A SLICE of ham, a few muſhrooms , a few fhallots, half a laurel - leaf, a large ſpoonful of oil ; fimmer all together on a flow fire ; add fome rich cullis, a glafs of Champagne ; boil, like all fauces, on a flow fire for half an hour ; fkim it well, and fift through a fieve. N. B. The French often recommend Champagne ; it may be fupplied in this country with Liſbon, the price being confidered.

1

Sauce

MODERN COOKERY.

33

Sauce Italienne Blanche. White Italian Sauce. SIMMER on a flow fire a fpoonful of oil, chopt

truffles,

two

cloves of garlick, two

whole onions, parfley, a laurel-leaf, two flices of lemon firft peeled, and good confomme, viz. jelly-broth, a glafs of whitewine ; fkim it well, and fift it. Sauce au Celadon.

Sea-green Sauce..

TAKE fmall flices of lard , ham , yeal , onions, carrots , fhallots , and cloves ; let it catch a little, then add a gill of white-wine and broth ; boil for an hour on a flow fire ; then fift it, and put in fome fine chopt parſley, and fome butter rolled in flour ; boil it to a good confiftence, stirring it often for fear it fhould burn at bottom .

When ready to ſerve, add

lemon-juice ſufficient to reliſh it. Sauce au Coloris. A Lively Coloured Sauce . THIS fauce ferves for all forts meat brazed.

of white

Take flices of veal, ham,

oni-

ons ; put upon it what meat you pleaſe, with a faggot of parfley and fweet-herbs, fhallots , three or four cloves , two flices of lemon, and a laurel-leaf; cover all with flices of lard ; foak it ; add fome good broth , and a glaſs of whitewine. The meat being done, ftrain your fauce, add a little good cullis , fkim it free from fat, boil to the confiftence of a fauce, add a little . butter and flour, fimmer without boiling, and it is done.

C

N. B.

THE

34

PRACTICE

OF

There remains a very good con-

N. B.

fomme in the bottom of all brazes ; let it cool, and take off the fat : the confomme will give a very good taſte and ftrength to all fauces with which you'll chooſe to mix it. Sauce au confommée.

Jelly- broth Sauce .

TAKE a few flices of lard, ham, beef,

an

old partridge, onions, carrots, a parſley root, a head of celery, two turnips, a faggot of parſley, thyme, a bay - leaf, and three cloves ; foak it on a flow fire : when it begins to catch , add as much broth as you think proper; then ftop your pot very well , and let it fimmer for about five hours ; then fkim the fat, and fift it.

This

confomme

ferves

for

particular

fauces, or to add ftrength to all forts. Sauce á la Saxe.

Saxon Sauce.

SLICES of veal , ham , onions , carrots , parfnips ; foak in a ftew-pan on a flow fire ; let it catch a very little ; then add broth , a glaſs of white-wine, chopt muſhrooms ; fimmer for about an hour ; fift it ; add ſome fine chopt parfley, a few tarragon leaves, and mint, firſt fcalded ; fqueeze of a lemon when you ſerve. Sauce á la liafon.

Sauce of a thick confiftence.

PUT in your ftew-pan a few flices of veal and ham cut fmall, a bit of good butter, a noſegay of parſley , ſhallot , two cloves, a laurel-leaf,

a little tarragon, and fweet- bafil ;

foak it according to former directions ; then add

MODERN COOKERY.

35

add good broth ; fimmer it till the meat is done ; fift it ; and when you are ready to uſe it, add three yolks of eggs well beat with fome of the liquor, grated nutmeg , a little chopt parfley, butter, falt, pepper, and a森 good fqueeze of lemon . Sauce à l'Ozeille.

Sorrel Sauce .

POUND forrel fufficient to draw two ſpoonfuls of juice ; ftrain , and boil it in butter rolled in flour, falt, pepper, nutmeg ; add two yolks of eggs without boiling. Sauce á la Mariette.

SOAK flices

of veal,

Common Sauce.

ham,

onions,

two

cloves of garlick, two cloves , a few tarragonleaves ; then add broth , a glaſs of white-wine, and two flices of lemons firft peeled ; fimmer on a flow fire, fkim it well , and fift it ;

add

three green ſhallots pounded . Sauce au Cerfeuil.

Chervil Sauce .

SOAK a few mushrooms, butter, parfley, green onions, fhallots, two cloves , a laurelleaf, a little tarragon ; then add two ſpoonfuls of broth, as much white-wine , falt and pepper ; reduce it flowly to a confiftence, fift it without ſkimming, and add to it fome fcald-. ed chopt chervil ; warm without boiling. Sauce au Perfil.

Parſley Sauce.

POUND a handful of parfley ; put it in a ftew-pan with good cullis, fufficient for the C 2 quan

36

THE

PRACTICE

OF

quantity of fauce you want, fimmer it a quarter of an hour ; fift it in a fieve ; add fome butter rolled in flour, make a liafon, then add a fqueeze of a lemon . Sauce á la Civette.

Small herbs , Civet Sauce.

MIX fome good confomme with a little white-wine ; fimmer it a quarter of an hour ; add to it chopt civet, a bit of butter rolled in flour, pepper, falt, and a fqueeze of a lemon Sauce á la Garonne.

Gafcoon Sauce.

SLICES of large onions ; boil in two ſpoonfuls of oil a moment ; then add a noſegay of parfley, chibbol , a laurel-leaf, a little tarragon and ſweet- bafil, three cloves of garlick, a few cloves, two flices of lemon firft peeled, two fpoonfuls of cullis, a little broth ; boil on a flow fire for half an hour, fkim it, and fift it for uſe. Sauce au Fenouil.

Fennel Sauce.

SOAK four orfive fliced onions in two ſpoonfuls of oil, two of cullis, and two of whitewine, with two cloves of garlick ; fimmer it an hour ; ſkim the fat, and fift through a fieve ; then add chopt parfley, and fennel , pepper, and falt ; boil a moment before ufing. Sauce l'Amiral.

Admiral's Sauce.

CHOP an anchovy, capers , and feven or eight green fhallots ; pafs them on the fire with a little confomme, a little falt and pepper, grated

MODERN COOKERY. 37 ted nutmeg, and butter rolled in flour ; when ready, add a lemon-fqueeze,

or a ſpoonful of

verjuice, Sauce Royale. Royal Sauce.

CUT fmall flices of veal,

lard , and ham,

cut a chicken in two, with three or four fhallots ; foak all together in a ſtew- pan, until it is ready to catch ; then add a glafs of champagne, as much cullis , and a fpoonful of good oil ; fimmer it for an hour and a half; fkim it very clean, and fift. Sauce à la Flamande. Flemiſh Sauce . TAKE one clove of garlick, one clovè, two flices of peeled lemon, pepper and falt, chopt parſley, two ſpoonfuls of cullis , a little broth , and a bit of butter rolled in flour ; ſoak for a quarter of an hour, then take out the lemon and garlick, and ferve upon what you pleaſe. Note, That when you uſe whole cloves of garlick in any fauces, always take it out before you ferve.

Sauce á la báte.

Sauce in a hurry.

ROLL a little butter in flour, put it in a ftew-pan with fome good confomme, pepper, and falt, and the fqueeze of a lemon . Sauce á l'Aigneau.

Lamb Sauce .

ROLL a little butter in bread-cruinbs , a little chopt parſley and fhallots , a little good broth, and C3

CE

TI

38

HE

T

C RA

OF

P

and as much white-wine ;

boil a fhort time ;

when ready, add a ſqueeze of a lemon , Sauce à l'Avare.

Mifer's Sauce .

CHOP five or fix fhallots , add a little verjuice or vinegar, water ; warm it,

pepper and falt, and a little and ferve in a fauce- boat.

Sauce au Verjus, Verjuice Sauce. POUND green grapes,

and fift it; chop

two or three green ſhallots , pepper and falt, a fpoonful of oil ; and ferve in a fauce-boat, Sauce au pauvre Homme. A Poor Man's Sauce . SLICE half a lemon ; boil it in a little broth, with two or three chopt fhallots, pepper, and falt ; take out the lemon before you ferve it up. Sauce Douce. Sweet Sauce . TAKE two glaſs of red - wine , one of vinegar, three fpoonfuls of cullis, a little fugar, one fliced onion, a little cinnamon , a laurelleaf; boil it a quarter of an hour ; fift it, and ferve it in a fauce -boat. Sauce au Fumet, Sauce made of Game. TAKE the remainder of a roafted hare or rabbit ; chop it in fmall pieces ; put it in a stew-pan with a glafs of white or red wine, a little cullis , a bay-leaf, thyme, a fliced onion, a fpoonful of vinegar,

a little broth, pepper

and falt ; reduce it to the confiftence of fauces , and fift it through a fieve.

Sauce

MODERN COOKERY. 39*

Sauce Ravigotte.

Relishing Sauce.

CHOP a clove of garlick, chervil , burnet, tarragon, garden- crefs, civet, all in proportion to their flavour ; when well waſhed and fqueezed, infufe it with a little cullis, without boiling ; fift it with expreffion ; add a little butter, flour, pepper and falt ; boil it to a good confiftence ; add as much juice of lemon as will make it reliſhing.

Ravigotte froide. The fame cold, TAKE half a head of celery, two or three fhallots, a clove of garlick,

one anchovy,

a

few capers, tarragon , chervil , burnet, gardencrefs ; pound all together ; add a little cullis , and fift it ; then add mustard, 1 vinegar, oil , pepper and falt ;

mix all well together.

Sauce á l'Afpic. Sharp Sauce Afpick.

INFUSE chervil , tarragon , burnet, gardencrefs, and a little mint, in a little cullis for about half an hour ; then fift it, and add to it a fpoonful of garlick-vinegar, ferve cold in a fauce-boat.

pepper and ſalt ;

Sauce á la Gendarme. Military Sauce.

INFUSE for an hour in confomme, a good deal of parfley and three cloves of garlick upon a flow fire ; then fift it, and add to the fauce a boiled pounded lettuce , three yolks of eggs , butter, pepper, falt, and lemon. C4

Sauce

40 .

THE

PRACTICE

Sauce à la belle vue.

OF

A well-looking Sauce.

TAKE a little beef-marrow, flices of ham and veal, a chicken cut in two, two onions, one carrot, a faggot of parsley, young onions, thyme, tarragon, and laurel , a little fweet bafil, one clove of garlick,

two cloves ; foak

all together till ready to catch ; then add

a

glaſs of white-wine and good broth, and a few muſhrooms ; boil on a flow fire till the meat is done ; fift it through a fieve. You may uſe it to what you pleaſe ; and alfo alter the tafte by adding

chopt

truffles,

pounded

white

meat of fowls, pickled cucumbers , yolks of eggs , almonds, & c. Sauce á la Morue. Skate or Cod Sauce.

TAKE a faggot of parsley,

green onions,

two fhallots , a laurel - leaf, two cloves, fome muſhrooms, a little butter ; foak all together on a flow fire ; add a ſmall ſpoonful of flour and milk or cream , fufficient to boil to the confiftence of a fauce ; fift it, and add to it fome chopt parſley. Sauce á la Polonoife , A Poliſh Sauce ,

SCALD a clove of garlick, with a little tarragon and burnet, chervil, two leaves of mint , and chop all together very fine ; then boil two fpoonfuls of confomme, as much whitewine, and two cloves ; reduce to halfin boiling ; then take out the cloves, and add what you have chopt ; warm without boiling.

Sauce

1

MODERN COOKERY.

41

Sauce au Faye. Liver Sauce, or Sauce of Liver . TAKE livers ofgame or poultry ; chop them very fine with parfley, green onions , a few tarragon-leaves , two fhallots ; foak all with a little butter till the

livers are

done ; then

pound all together, and add ſome cullis and broth, pepper and falt ; boil a little with two glaffes of red-wine , coriander, cinnamon , and fugar ; reduce it to a fauce, fift it through a fieve, and ferve it in a fauce-boat .

Sauce á l'Espagnole.

Spanish Sauce.

GARNISH your ftew-pan with flices of lard, veal , ham, one onion , one carrot, half a parſnip ; ſoak it till it begins to take colour ; then add two large glaffes of white-wine, as much confomme , three cloves of garlick, a little coriander, a laurel-leaf, three of tarragon , two cloves, two fpoonfuls of good oil, three of meat cullis ; fimmer it till the meat is done, and ſkim it a little before you ftrain it. Sauce Robert, Robert Sauce . SLICE feveral onions ; fry them in butter, turning often till they take colour ; then add a little cullis and good broth, pepper and falt ; let them boil half an hour, and reduce to a fauce ; when ready, add muftard ; you may fift it for thoſe that only like the flavour of onions.

Sauce

THE

42

PRACTICE

OF

Sauce á la Moutarde. Muftard Sauce .

BOIL in broth two fhallots chopped, pepper and falt ; mix ſome muſtard with a little cullis and a little vinegar ; warm it without boiling. Sauce á la Carpe. Carp Sauce. CUT a carp in pieces ; put it in a ſtew- pan, with flices of lard , ham, veal, onions, carrots , a noſegay of parſley and green onions ; foak it till it catches a little ; then add a glaſs of white-wine and good broth, a little cullis , a clove of garlick, two cloves, a laurel - leaf ; fimmer for an hour, fkim it well , and fift it through a fieve. Sauce à l'Anguille. Eel Sauce . CUT the eels as before, and foak them ; adding all forts of roots , with three or four tarragon-leaves inftead of the nofegay and laurel ; ſkim it well, and fift in a fieve . Sturgeon fauce is made the fame way ; and pike ſauce the ſame as the carp .

Sauce á la Bechamel, Begamel Sauce. PUT in a ſtew-pan a few flices of veal, ham, a few muſhrooms and fhallots , two cloves , a laurel -leaf, a little good butter ; foak all together without letting it take colour ; add a little good broth and cream, according to the quantity of fauce you want ; fimmer it half an

7

MODERN COOKERY .

43

an hour, and fift it through a fieve ; you may add fcalded parfley chopped very fine .

Sauce au Maquereau, Mackarel Sauce. SCALD green goofeberrries and fennel ; chop the fennel very fine, a bit of butter rolled in flour, pepper and falt ; add veal- gravy , and reduce to the confiftence of a white fauce, Sauce Remoulade. Horfe-radifh or Muftard Sauce. If you want it hot , flice two onions , and fry them in oil or butter ; when it begins to colour, add a little white-wine and good broth , two flices of lemon firft peeled, two cloves of garlick, a laurel - leaf, thyme, bafil, two cloves ; boil a quarter of an hour ; fift it in a fieve ; add a chopt anchovy and capers , a ſpoonful of muftard or horfe- radish grated and reduced to a marmalade, pepper and falt ; warm without boiling. This fauce is made cold with chopped parsley,

green

clove of garlick ,

anchovies ,

onions ,

fhallots , at

and capers, a

ſpoonful of muſtard or horſe- radiſh ſcraped very fine or grated , a fpoonful of oil , vinegar, pepper and falt. Sauce Poivrade, Sharp Sauce . TAKE a little butter, fliced onions , bits of carrot, parfley-root, two cloves two cloves, a

of garlick,

laurel-leaf; foak all together

till it takes colour ; then add fome cullis , a little vinegar and broth, falt and pepper ; boil it

44

THE

PRACTICE OF

it to the conſiſtence of fauces ; fkim , and fift it for uſe. Sauce au Fenouil. Another Fennel Sauce.

WARM as much cullis and confomme as you have occafion

for fauce,

infufe in it fome

fennel, take it out as foon as it has given taſte to the fauce ; add the juice of a lemon when you ferve. Sauce Hachée. Minced Sauce . SOAK a flice of ham over the fire ; when it catches a little , mince it very fine, and put it in the fame ftew-pan with chopt mufhrooms, parfley,

and fhallots ; add a glaſs of

white-wine, as much cullis and confomme, a little falt and pepper ; fimmer it to a fauce confiftence ; fkim it well. N. B. A chopt or pounded anchovy added to this fauce juſt before uſing, will add greatly to its reliſh . Sauce au Porc frais. Freſh Pork Sauce . FRY two or three fliced onions in oil or butter till they take colour ; then add a little broth and cullis , chopt muſhrooms , a clove of garlick, two cloves, a little vinegar ; boil it half an hour, to reduce it to the confiftence of a fauce ; ſkim it well, and fift it for uſe, Sauce á la Nonette. Nun's Sauce. TAKE flices of veal and ham ; put in a ſtewpan, with a ſpoonful of oil , a few muſhrooms, a

MODERN COOKERY.

45

a faggot of parfley and green onions, a clove of garlick, two cloves, half a laurel-leaf; let it catch a little, then add ſome good broth, a little gravy, a glaſs of white-wine ; fimmer it fome time ; fkim it well , and fift it through a fieve ; when ready, add to it two or three green ſhallots chopped, a dozen of pistachionuts whole. Sauce Verte. Green Sauce. TAKE chervil, parſley, burnet ; waſh them well, and fqueeze the water out ; then pound them

very fine ; put them on the fire with

good confomme, fift it through a ftamine with expreffion ; add a little butter rolled in flour, pepper and ſalt ; ſimmer without boiling.

Sauce verte d'une autre facon. Another Green Sauce. SCALD a handful of fpinage for half an hour, or till done, with parfley and tops of green fhallots ; then. ftrain and fqueeze them well, and pound them very fine ; put in a ftew-pan a little butter,

a few mushrooms ,

fliced onions, two cloves of garlick, a little tarragon , a laurel- leaf, a little bafil , two cloves ; foak a little ; add a little cullis and white-wine ; boil it a little, then add your green fauce, and fift it through a ftamine ; add pepper and falt, and fimmer it without boiling. Sauce piquante.

Sharp or relishing Sauce.

SOAK a good flice of veal and ham ; when it

46

THE PRACTICE

OF

it catches, add a glaſs of white-wine, half a glafs of vinegar, two ſpoonfuls of broth, two of oil, two cloves of garlick, two flices

of

peeled lemon, a little tarragon , a laurel - leaf, one of mint, two cloves, a little coriander ; boil for an hour on a flow fire , reduce it to the confiftence of a fauce, ſkim the fat very clean, and fift it in a fieve ; you may add a little cullis , if you would have it thicker. Sauce au bleu celefte . A Sky-blue Sauce . TAKE a handful of bread- crumbs fifted in a cullender ; boil it in milk until it becomes quite thick ; take care to ftir it, left it should . burn ; add a little boiled cream , and fift it through a ftamine ; then boil a little whitewine, with a clove of garlick ; pound very fine fome chervil , parfley, tarragon, and fift with the white- wine ; add this green with the white-fauce,

and add a little cullis , pepper

and falt ; warm it without boiling. Sauce au Pontiff.

1

Pontiff Sauce.

SOAK flices of veal, ham, fliced onions , carrots, parfnips , a head of celery ; let it catch ; then add a little white-wine and fome good broth, a clove of garlick, four fhallots, two cloves, a little coriander , two slices of peeled lemon ; boil on a flow fire till the meat is done ; little

fkim it, and fift it in a fieve ; cullis

add a and fome fine chopt parſley , a

little before you uſe it. Sauce

1

MODERN COOKERY.

47

Sauce au Reverend, Gras au Maigre. The Parfon's Sauce. CHOP lemon-peel very fine, with two or three pickled cucumbers, a bit of good butter rolled in flour , falt and pepper, a little thin cullis, and make a liafon for it. Sauce á la Milanoife.

Milan Sauce .

SLICE two or three onions ; put them in a ftew-pan, with a few bits of ham, a clove of garlick, two cloves , a laurel-leaf, fcalded parfley, two ſpoonfuls of oil ; let it catch on the fire, then put to it a glafs of white-wine and a little cullis ; fimmer it fome time, fkim it well, and fift it through a fieve. Sauce à l'Orange.

Orange Sauce.

SOAK flices of veal, ham , onions, roots ; let it catch, then put to it a little broth and cullis ; fimmer it on a flow fire ; fkim and fift it ; then add orange-peel chopt, and the juice of two oranges , a little butter and flour, pepper and falt to taste ; warm it without boilFor meagre, take fiſh-broth, a chopt anchovy, pepper and falt, more butter rolled

ing.

in flour, and the fame quantity of orangepeel and juices . Sauce au Canard.

Sauce for Ducks .

Mix two fpoonfuls of good cullis with a little veal -gravy,

a little

white- wine ,

and

chopt fhallot, pepper and falt ; boil à little ; when

THE

48

PRACTICE OF

when you are ready to ferve, add the juice of a lemon . Sauce á la Echalotte.

Shallot Sauce.

BOIL fix fhallots, well chopt, in good vealgravy, with pepper and falt. Serve in a fauceboat.

Une autre Sauce au Perfil. Another Parſley Sauce. SCALD a handful of parſley, and chop it very fine ; put it in a ſmall ſtew-pan with butter and flour , a chopt anchovy, pepper and falt, a little vinegar and tarragon ; add a fpoonful of cullis, and as much veal-gravy ; warm it without boiling. Sauce au Bled Verd. Green Wheat Sauce . SIMMER a cruft of bread in a little good broth, half a spoonful of vinegar, a clove of garlick ; fcald a handful of green wheat , and fqueeze the water out very well ; pound it, and add to it your fauce, and fift it all together in a ſtamine ; make a liafon with fome good confomme, pepper and ſalt.

Sauce a la Reine.

Queen's Sauce.

SIMMER crumbs of bread in good cullis , until it is quite thick ; take it off the fire ; add fix fweet-almonds, two hard yolks of eggs, and a breaſt of roaſted fowl, all pounded very fine ; boil fome cream fufficient for yourfauce ; fift

MODERN COOKERY.

49

fift all together in a ftamine, add pepper . and falt ; warm without boiling. Sauce a l'Achide.

Acid Sauce.

POUND three hard yolks of eggs, one anchovy, with a little fine fpices and falt, half a glass of vinegar, butter and flour, and a little veal-gravy ; if for meagre, make a liafon as for a white fauce.

Sauce a la Becaffe .

Woodcock Sauce.

TAKE the bones of roafted woodcocks , pound them and the livers, put them in a ftew- pan with a little cullis and red-wine, reduce it to a fauce confiftence, fift it in a fieve ; when ready, add pepper and falt, and ſqueeze one or two oranges in it. Sauce au Truffles.

Truffles Sauce.

CHOP three or four truffles ; put them in a ftew-pan with a little confomme and gravy, meager or meat , a nofegay of parſley, chibbol,

half a clove of garlick,

pepper,

and

falt ; fimmer it to the conſiſtence of a fauce, and take out the nofegay before uſing.

Sauce au Beurre noir.

Burnt-butter Sauce .

FRY fome butter ; when it begins to ſmoke, throw in it chopt parfley ; when it is done, add pepper, falt , and vinegar. -Sauce General.

General Sauce .

To make this fauce properly, you muſt infufe D

THE

PRACTICE

OF

50 fufe all the following ingredients for four and twenty hours on hot afhes , in an earthen pot if poffible ; and that it may be very well fteeped , fplit fix fhallots , a clove of garlick, two laurel1 leaves, thyme and bafil in proportion , truffles , a little tarragon, half an ounce of muftard-feed bruifed, a dozen fmall bits of Seville- orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves , as much mace, half an ounce of long pepper,

two

ounces of falt, the juice of a lemon , fix glaffes of verjuice or vinegar, and a pint of whitewine.

Let it reft, and fift it very clear ; you It will keep a a bottle.

will keep it in

long while, and ferve for all forts of meat and fish fauces which require a fharpneſs ; it muſt be uſed with moderation . By the quantities here given, you may proportion any quantities . As oil is recommended in ſeveral of theſe fauces , I must take notice, confidering that oil is feldom to be had in this country in per-

1 fection , and moſt people by that means have a diflike to have it in their fauces ; therefore to fuch as do not like oil, I would recommend good butter. OF BEEF .

Langue de Boeuf au gros Sel. Fresh Beef- tongue in a plain way. SCALD a tongue ; peel it, and lard it with large pieces of lard ; pot,

boil it in the broth-

or in water with

a few onions

and

roots ;

7

1

MODERN COOKERY .

5i

roots ; when it is done, ferve it with broth, pepper and falt. Langues de Boeuf en Caiffes. Sham Beef Tongues.

TAKE a plain boiled tongue, and peel it ; cut it in flices ; fimmer over the fire about a quarter of an hour, with a little butter,

chopt

parfley, fhallots , a tafte of garlick, pepper , Make and falt ; take it off, and let it cool . forced- meat with fillet of veal , as much fuet as veal, crumbs of bread foaked in cream , pepper, falt, parfley, chibbol, three yolks of eggs to mix it. Garnifh the bottom of the dish (you intend to ferve the tongue upon) with fome of this forced meat, then the tongue upon this ; remainder ;

cover it over with the

1

ſmooth it with a knife dipt in

yolks of eggs , in the form of a tongue ; ftrew it over with crumbs of bread ; bake it in a Dutch or baking oven for about three quarters of an hour ; when it is of a good colour, take it out and pour the fat off ; clean your difh ; add a clear fauce, made with vealgravy and good broth, a little vinegar, falt, and pepper. Langue de Boeuf a la Remoulade, Beef's Tongue with a Relishing Saucè.. SCALD a freſh tongue, and peel it ; lard it with large pieces of lard ; boil it in the ftock pot, or in broth, with a little falt and a nofegay, as formerly directed ; fplit it, but not quite D 2 in

1

1

52

THE

PRACTICE

OF

in two ; make a fauce with parfley, ſhallots, capers, anchovies, all very fine chopt, a little vinegar, a few crumbs of bread or raſpings, a little cullis and broth , a little falt and pepper ; boil all together a little ; then put the tongue in it to fimmer for a quarter of an hour when you ferve, add a little muftard. Langue de Boeuf en Ragout. Beef Tongue Ragout.

LARD a tongue as the former, and braze it in a light braze ; mix with good broth, nofegay of parfley, chibbol,

thyme,

a

laurel,

two cloves, one of garlick, onions and roots ; fplit it in two when done , ferve upon it what ragout you think proper, ſuch as ſweet- breads , truffles, mushrooms, ſmall onions , &c.

Langue de Boeuf Grilleé. Broiled Beef's Tongue. HALF boil a tongue, peel, lard, and braze it the fame as the former ; cut it in two , and dip it in oil, and roll it in bread- crumbs ; broil it flowly, bafting it with oil ; make a fauce with chopt fhallots , a little broth and veal gravy, pepper and falt, a little vinegar ; boil it a little ; pour your fauce in the diſh , and the tongue upon it. Languesfumées.

Smoked Tongues.

TAKE what quantity of tongues you think proper ; foak them in water about three hours ; cut off the throat end , and wipe them dry with

MODERN COOKERY.

5.3

with a cloth before falting ; make a powder with laurel-leaves, thyme,

bafil, coriander,

juniper- berries, parfley, fhallots, and cloves ; dry them in the oven to make them pound very fine,

with two ounces of faltpetre to

one pound of falt ; mix your powder with the falt

have a proper pan for tongues , and

place them very clofe as they are falted ; when all falted,

cover your pan very clofe,

and

leave it for eight or ten days ; then take them out, and run a ftring through the ſmall end , hang them up in the chimney until they are quite dried ; they will keep a long while : ufe them either plain, boiled, or brazed .

The

pickle will ferve to make pickled pork.

Langue de Boeuf à la Broche. Beef- Tongue Roafted. BOIL a tongue until it will peel, in broth or water, with falt and pepper, onions , carrots, parſnips, a nofegay, two cloves of garlick, laurel, and thyme ; then lard it as a fricandeau,

and finish it in roaſting

ſerve

under it a reliſhing fauce, or plain. Langue de Boeuf à la Braife. Beef's Tongue Brazed . SCALD a tongue, and boil it half in your ftock- pot or water ; then peel it, and lard it through with large pieces of lard ; finish it by itſelf in a ſmall pot or ſtew-pan with broth, pepper, falt, carrots , parfnips, onions , flices of lard, a nofegay, fhallots, D3

two cloves, a laurel-

THE 54

CTICE OF PRACTICE OF

laurel- leaf, thyme, bafil, a little tarragon , and a glafs of white-wine ; ftew it on a flow fire ; ferve it with what ragout you pleaſe. Calves tongues, fheep, and pork, are dreffed in the fame way.

Langue de Boeuf en Crepine. Beef- Tongue in Veal Coul, or other. BOIL a tongue fufficiently to peel as the former ; then lard and ſplit it without feparating in two ; flice fome onions , fry them in hogs lard ; put to it three or four ſpoonfuls of hogs blood, about a quarter of a pound of freſh lard chopt, a few ſpices and falt ; fimmer it, flirring it continually until the blood is well mixed ; then lay a coul in the bottom of your diſh, and ſpread upon it part of your preparation , then the tongue, then the fame as before on the tongue ; roll it up in the coul, and garnish it with bread- crumbs ; put it in the oven to bake, and take a good colour ; clean the diſh free from fat, and ferve under it a fauce made with cullis, jelly-broth , and lemon.

Langue de Boeuf a la St Menchoult. A Brazed Tongue broiled . BRAZE a tongue well larded ; when done, fplit it in two without feparating, dip it in yolks of eggs and bread- crumbs , then in melted butter and more crumbs ; then broil it on a flow fire, bafting it fometimes with but-

ter ;

MODERN COOKERY.

55

ter ; ferve it with a clear verjuice or muſtard fauce, in a fauce-boat.

Langue de Boeuf au Gratin. N. B. Gratin means every thing that catches. at bottom .

CUT a brazed tongue in thin flices ; put in a ftew-pan a bit of butter, parſley, chibbol , muſhrooms , ſhallots, half a clove of garlick, all well chopped ; fimmer all on a flow fire, with a little cullis , gravy, and broth, a little vinegar, falt and pepper ; reduce it to the confiftence of a fauce ; add an anchovy and a few capers chopt ; put half of this fauce in the dith intended for table, place the tongue properly upon it, foak it until it catches at bottom ; when ready to ferve, add the reſt of your fauce.

Langue de Boeufau Parmefan. Beef's-tongue and Parmeſan Cheeſe. BOIL the tongue as the former, peel and finish it in a braze, and cut it in flices ; put a little cullis and Parmefan in the table- difh, and fome of the flices of tongue, then a little more cullis and Parmefan, and then tongue ; let the cheeſe be the laft bed ; bake it ; give it a good colour, and little fauce remaining. Cervelle de Boeuf.

Ox's Brains .

Ox-brains are prepared as calves- brains , which you will find in the articles of veal.

D4

Palais

•

CE

56

THE

CTI

PRA

OF

Palais de Boeuf á la St Menoult. Beef-palates St Menoult.

BOIL in water as many palates

as you

pleafe ; peel them well , and foak them in a St. Menoult, which is thus ; put in a ſtew- pan a little butter rolled in flour, falt and pepper, two fhallots , a clove of garlick, two cloves , parſley , a laurel- leaf, thyme, with as much milk as will fimmer your palates till tender ; then take them out, and baſte them with yolks of eggs and bread- crumbs ; broil them flowly, and ſerve with a ſharp fauce. Palais de Boeuf á la Poulette. Fricafee of Palates. BOIL and peel the palates as the former, and cut them in fmall fillets ; put them in a ftew-pan with a little butter, a flice of ham , muſhrooms, a nofegay, fhallots , two cloves , a little tarragon, a glafs of white-wine, and broth ; fimmer them until they are quite tender ; add falt, pepper, and a little chopped parfley ; when ready to ferve, add a liafon made of three yolks of eggs , cream , and bits of good butter ; and lemon when ready.

add the fqueeze of a

Palais de Boeuf á la Angloife. Beef- palates Engliſh faſhion , or Olive . BRAZE and peel your palates, fplit them in two, and ſpread upon them good forced meat made of veal or roafted fowl ; roll them

up

MODERN COOKERY,

57

up like an olive ; then dip them in batter made of flour, yolks of eggs , a ſpoonful of oil, falt, a glaſs of white-wine ; make the batter a little thicker than thick cream ; fry them of a good colour,

garniſh with fried

parfley. Palais de Boeuf au petit Lard. Beef-palates with pickled Pork . SLICE fome pickled pork, and boil it flowly; take the fat off; add a little cullis, " confomme, and a little vinegar, three chopt fhallots, and a little pepper ; cut brazed palates in large pieces, and add to your pork ; warm it without boiling . Palais de Boeuf au Timbale. Beef-palates in Moulds of any Sort.

GARNISH your moulds with veal coul ; take brazed palates , and cut them according to the form ofthe moulds ; make a good forced meat of fowl and the parings of the palates ; put a bit of palate in the bottom, then forced meat ; repeat it until the moulds are full ; cover it with chopped truffles , and a bit of palate laft ; bake them in the oven ; when done, take them out of the moulds carefully,

wipe the fat from

them , and ſerve with what fauce you pleaſe. Palais de Boeuf á la Brochette. Beef- palates broiled on fmall Skewers . BOIL three or four palates in water ; when done, peel and trim them, cut them in fix

pieces ;

58

THE

TICE

PRAC

OF

pieces ; then put in a ſtew- pan a piece of、 butter with a little flour, muſhrooms , fhallots , half a clove of garlick, parfley, chibbol, all finely chopt, pepper and falt, a little cullis, and a glass of white-wine ; put in your palates ; boil on a flow fire, until the fauce is properly reduced ; then add a little butter, and three yolks of eggs ; fimmer it over the fire , to make the fauce quite thick ; then put your palates upon filver fkewers , with as much of the fauce as will ftick to them ;

broil them

gently, till of a fine colour : you may ferve them either with or without fauce ; if any, let it be clear gravy and verjuice or lemon . Palais de Boeuf en menus droits. Beef-palates cut in fmall fillets or minced . FRY two or three fliced onions , until half done ; then put two or three fliced palates , being plain boiled and well cleaned ; add a little cullis, gravy, and broth ; fimmer it to reduce the fauce ; fkim it well , and add pepper and falt, nutmeg, and a little vinegar ; when ready to ferve, add a little muſtard .

Palais de Boeufa la Provençale. Beef- palates Provence-fafhion . BRAZE the palates , and cut them in ſmall pieces ; put them in a ftew-pan with a bit of butter, two ſpoonfuls of oil, falt, whole pepper, a little nutmeg, two chopt fhallots, a clove of garlick, a little tarragon, muſhrooms, and parfley ; immer it a quarter of an hour ; then

MODERN COOKERY.

59

then add a little cullis, a glafs of white- wine, and a little jelly-broth ; boil it a little ; ſkim it well ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon . Palais de Boeuf au Parmefam aux petits Oignons. Beef- palates with Parmeſan and ſmall Onions. BRAZE the palates , and cut each in fix ; have fome fmall onions boiled in broth , which you mix with cullis and confemme, a bit of butter, pepper, and falt ; add a liafon ; then put half of this fauce in the difh you intend to ſerve in, with rafped Parmefan, then the palates and fmall onions, then the remainder of the fauce and Parmefan over it ; bake it in the oven, or under a brazing cover ; give it a fine colour. Palais de Boeuf á la Marmotte, Beef- palates Country- faſhion.

BOIL two or three palates in water; peel them , and cut them in pieces ; cut alfo fome pickled pork in flices, which you half-boil ; then add the palates , with parfley, ſhallots, a clove of garlick, all chopt, whole pepper, and a

little white-wine ; boil all together ; when done, thicken it with butter rolled in

flour ; put it on the difh you intend to ferve in, with crumbs of bread over it ; put it in the oven to take colour .

Palais

THE

бо

PRACTICE

OF

Palais de Boeuf á la Ravigotte. Beef- palates with a Relifhing Sauce. BOIL the palates till tender ; peel and cut them in eight or ten pieces ; put them in a few-pan, with a flice of ham, a faggot of parfley,

chibbol,

a

clove

of garlick,

two

cloves, a little butter ; let it catch a little, then add a little white- wine and cullis ; boil it

} flowly for fome time ; ſkim it well ; add pepper and falt according to tafte, and fweet herbs

finely

chopt ;

when

ready to ferve,

add the juice of a lemon.

Queue de Boeuf au Choux. Beef's -tail and Cabbage . CUT a tail in feveral pieces ; boil it in broth with parfley, fhallots , onions, carrots , four cloves : when boiled about an hour , put to it a good favoy firft fcalded, a pound of pickled pork cut in piecès, a little falt and pepper ; when done, take it out of the braze , clean the fat from it, put all in a tureen intermixed, and add broth and good cullis fufficient to make it either more or leſs liquid .

N. B. The

tail and favoy being done in the ftock- pot, will anſwer the fame purpoſe as a braze. Queue de Boeuf en paté chaud. Beef-tail Pie.

BRAZE two or three tails

according to

the largeneſs of your pie, until done ; cut them in pieces ;

put a

couple of pieces of ham ,

MODERN COOKERY.

61

ham in your pie , then the tails ; cover it over with butter, thin flices of lard , and a little good gravy ; finish your pie ; bake it in the oven when done, take out the lard and ham ; fkim off the fat very clean ; ferve upon it a good fauce of ragout, fweetbreads , fat livers , truffles, or any other.

Queues de Boeuf de plufieurs Fagons. Beef's-tails of different Faſhions . TAILS well brazed, may be dreffed different ways ; you may boil and ſerve with a fharp fauce in a fauce-boat ; alfo in a tureen, with all forts of herbs and roots, as cucumbers, chefnuts, truffles , turnips, onions, carrots, fweet-breads , cockſcombs, & c . & c. Gras double à la Robert.

Tripe, Robert Sauce.

FRY three or four fliced onions in butter, till they are almoſt done ; the tripe being boiled very tender, cut it in pieces , and with it the onions, a little cullis, a glafs

of white-

wine and broth, a faggot of parſley,

chib-

bol , taragon, a laurel-leaf, two cloves , pepper and falt ; boil on a flow fire, fkim it well , reduce the fauce till pretty thick, and add a little muftard . Gras Double au Verjus.

Tripe, Verjuice Sauce.

BOIL the tripe very tender ; make a marinade with oil, vinegar , pepper, ſalt, and ſhallots, chopt very fine ; foak the tripe fome time in this, then roll them in bread - crumbs ; broil them

62

THE PRACTICE

or

them of good colour : ferve with a fauce half cullis and half verjuice .

Gras Double de plufieursfaçons. Tripe different faſhions . TRIPE being boiled very tender, may be cut . in different manners , and dreffed with muſhrooms, parfley, fhallots, a clove of garlick, a little tarragon and thyme, two cloves , and a flice of ham ; let it catch a little ; then add a little white-wine and broth ; ftew on a flow fire ; when ready, add a liafon of eggs and cream if you would have it brown , inſtead of liafon, add cullis and gravy, and a little fcalded chopt parfley.

Ragnon de Boeuf a la Moutarde. Beef's Kidney, and Muftard Sauce. FRY fliced onions in butter till half done, and cut the kidney in ſmall pieces ; put it to the onions and butter ; ftew it on a flow fire ; the kidney will furnish liquid enough ; add muflard when ready.

Ragnons de Boeuf à la mode. Beef Kidneys à la mode. CUT the kidneys in pieces , and clean them very well ; alſo a pound of pickled pork cut in pieces, chopt parfley, fhallots , a clove of garlick ; garnish the bottom of your ftewpan with flices of lard ; then kidney,

pork,

and herbs ; then flices of lard over all ; add jelly broth ; ſtew it three hours over a flow fire,

MODERN COOKERY.

63

fire, or in the oven : when almoft done, add a gill of brandy ; ferve it in a tureen either hot or cold.

Ragnons de Boeuf en Paté Chaud. Beef Kidney Pie. CUT as many kidneys as will fill your pié, in flices ; cover the bottom of the pie with it ; then ſweet-herbs , fuch as parfley , fhallots chopt, mushrooms, pepper and falt ; continue in that manner till your pie is full, then cover it with flices of lard , and finiſh the pie ; when baked , take out the lard, and fkim off the make a fauce of white-wine fat very clean and cullis, and the juice of a Seville orange ; add it to your pie when ready to ſerve.

Tetine de Vache au Verjus. Cow's Udder and Verjuice Sauce. Cur the udder in pieces,

and put it in a

ftew-pan with chopt parfley, chibbol, mufhrooms , a clove of garlick, and butter ; let it catch then add a little white-wine, good broth, pepper and falt ; ftew on a flow fire till done ; then make a liafon with broth , and the yolks of two eggs ; when ready, add a fpoonful of verjuice or lemon-juice. Ufage de Craiffe de Boeuf et Mouelle. The way to ufe Beef Suet and Marrow. ALL the fmall fkin and finews must be taken away very clean, it ferves for moſt forced meats, as

does marrow for

particular

ufes,

64

THE

PRACTICE OF

uſes , and extremely good to put in brazes , as being very nourishing ; if you would uſe it inftead of butter, foak it in milk and warm water, turning and preffing it with your hands to render it ſoft, and fqueeze the water out of it.

Franches de Boeuf a la Bourgeoife. Beef-fteaks family - way . LARD the ſteaks here and there with large pieces of lard ; put them in a ſtew- pan with chopt parfley, fhallots , thyme, laurel, falt, whole pepper, a little white-wine ; ftew flowly till done ; ferve either hot or cold.

Franches de Boeuf á la Camargot . Beef-fteaks by the name of a famous dancer. LARD thick fteaks , half lard and half´anchovies ; put them in a ſtew- pan upon flices of lard, ſeaſon them with fine ſpices, (and no falt, as the anchovies will anſwer) , a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, a clove of garlick, two fhallots, and a gill of white-wine ; ſtew them very flowly for about four hours, then fift the fauce through a lawn fieve ; add a little butter rolled in flour, according to the quantity of fauce you want, with cullis and broth, and lemon -juice if you like it.

Franches de Boeuf á la Royale. Beef-fteaks, court- faſhion . LARD thick ſteaks with pieces of lard ; and ſeaſon them with fine fpices, a faggot of par-

fley

MODERN COOKERY.

65

fley and fweet herbs , a clove of garlick, three fhallots, and a laurel - leaf, chopt very fine put your beef in the pan , upon thin flices of lard, a few onions, and other roots fliced ; foak over a flow fire about five or fix hours in its own gravy, the pan being well covered ; upon the latter end, put to it a gill of brandy.

It is called á la mode beef when ferved

hot, and á la layal when cold.

Sift the fauce,

and fkim the fat well off if you ferve it hot, but not if cold. Tranches de Boeuf a la Sarvante. Beef-fteaks to eat hot or cold, family-faſhion . CUT the fteaks thin ; lay a bed of fliced lard in your pot ; then of ſtakes , ſweet herbs , and ſpices ; and fo on till you have done ; add a gill of brandy ; ftop the pot very well with paſte to keep the fteam in it ; foak five or fix hours on a very flow fire. · N. B. This is beſt done in an earthen vesfel, and eats beft cold . It keeps a long while. Tranches de Boeuf au Caramel. Beef-fteaks glazed , or fricandeau.

TAKE a piece or pieces of beef of what bignefs you pleafe ; lard with coarſe pieces of lard, feaſoned with fpices ; boil it in broth, with a little white-wine , a faggot of parfley, fweet herbs, a clove of garlick, ſhallots , four cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; when tender, fift the fauce, ſkim it well , and reduce it to a E glaze,

}

THE

66

PRACTICE

OF

glaze, with which you glaze the larded fide ; and ferve it

upon

what ftewed herbs you

pleaſe.

Caneilons de Boeuf. Beef forced-meat in form of a pudding. MINCE a piece of tender beef with as much fuet, a little ham and bacon, two or three eggs,

parfley, fhallots, thyme, laurel,

fpices , a little falt, and a glaſs of brandy ; mix all together, and roll it in the form of a large pudding, and round it thin flices of lard, over that white paper,

upon the paper a paſte made of flour and water ; bake it about two

hours in the oven ; when done, take away the paſte and lard : if you ſerve them hot, add a reliſhing fauce ; they may ferve cold for a fecond courſe if for cold , leave the paſte till you are to fend them to table.

Boeuf de defferte à Sainte Menehoult. Cold roaft Beef marinaded . CUT flices of cold roast beef, and make a marinade with a little oil, parfley, chibbol, muſhrooms, a trifle of garlick, and three fhallots, all finely chopt, pepper and falt ; foak it along with the beef about half an hour ; make as much of the marinade keep to it as you can , with a deal of bread - crumbs ; broil on a flow fire, bafting with the remaining liquid ; ferve with a fharp fauce.

Boeuf

MODERN

COOKERY.'

67

Boeufde defferte à la Bourgoife. Cold Roaft Beef, family-fashion. SLICE three or four onions, and fry them in butter ; when done , add a little broth, three fhallots chopt, pepper and falt ; then put flices of cold beef to it ; boil for a moment ; when ready, add a liafon made of three yolks of eggs , and a little vinegar. Cold beef is al- ´ fo very good with cold fauce made of chopt parfley, fhallots , vinegar, oil, muſtard , minced anchovy, & c . Boeuf de defferte en Papillotte. Cold Beef broiled in paper.

SOAK your flices in a marinade made of oil or butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , muſhrooms, pepper and falt ; roll the pieces in paper with the marinade ; rub the paper with butter ; broil on a flow fire, and ferve in the paper. Culotte de Boeuf à la Mantoweé. Rump of Beef in the Mantua faſhion.

GARNISH the bottom of your pot with flices of lard, fliced onions, and roots ; then the beef upon it well tied ; foak it fome time ; then add broth, pepper, and falt, a faggot of parfley, green onions, two cloves of garlick, two laurel-leaves,

thyme,

bafil,

and

fix

cloves ; braze on a flow fire ; when half done, put to it ſmall favoys prepared in this manner ; boil a whole favoy about half an hour, then E 2

68

THE

PRACTICE

OF

then ſqueeze the water from it ; have a good forced-meat made with fillet of veal, beef-fuet, two or three eggs, chopt parfley , and ſhallots, pepper and falt, crumbs of bread foak- 1 ed in cream ; take the cabbage- leaves one by one, and put fome of this forced meat upon them ; then put them together in form of a cabbage ; make as many as you think proper ; tie them well all round , and put them in the braze with the beef ; when done, take them out and wipe them free from fat ; you ferve them in the fame difh with the beef, and a fauce made with cullis and minced anchovies ; if you have no cullis, fift fome of the braze, and a little butter rolled in flour ; add fine chopt parſley, and juice of lemon , or vinegar . Culotte de Boeuffumeé.

Rump of Beef ſmoked . BONE a rump of beef as well as poffible, without ſpoiling the ſhape ; falt it with a pound of falt, and two ounces of faltpetre ; put it in a falting-pan in length, with all forts of fweet herbs , as parſley, fhallots, thyme, laurel , bafil, winter ſavory , half a handful ofjuniperberries, a little coriander, fix cloves , and two cloves of garlick ; leave it about a week or ten days in falt, then hang it in the chimney ; when dried, keep it in a dry place . When you want to uſe it, boil it in water without falt, with a few onions , cloves , a faggot of ſweet herbs, and a little nutmeg : let it cool in the liquor, and ſerve it cold upon a napkin ; garnifh

1 MODERN COOKERY.

69

niſh with parſley ; if you think it will be too falt, ſoak it ſome time before boiling.

Culotte a l'Ecarlatefans Salpêtre. Scarlet Beef without Saltpetre. BONE a rump of beef; mix a pound of falt with an ounce

of fpices ;

cut about a

pound and a half of bacon in thick pieces to lard it with in the infide ; make the falt and fpices to ftick to the lard as much as poffible, then rub the beef with the remainder ; roll it in a linen cloth,

with eight

laurel -leaves,

thyme and bafil in proportion , a quarter of a pound of juniper- berries ; put a coarfer cloth round it, and put in the ground fix or ſeven days , that will make it red inftead of faltpetre ; then boil it with a few flices of beef, and broth without falt, a faggot of onions , and carrots ; let it cool in its broth, and ſerve as before.

Culotte de Boeuf á la Gascogne. Rump of Beef, Gaſcony faſhion . BONE a rump of beef ; foak it three or four days in a marinade made of oil, ſeven whole cloves of garlick, half a pound of falt, half an ounce of ſpices , thyme, laurel , and bafil ; ftew it in the marinade, with a pint of whitewine, and as much broth ; when done, wipe the fat clean off; fift part of the broth, and add a little cullis ; reduce the fauce pretty thick : the breaſt, or any part of the brisket, may be done the fame way .

E 3

Culotte

THE PRACTICE OF

70

Culotte de Boeuf dans fonjus. Rump of Beef in its own Gravy. STEW a rump of beef on a very flow fire , with good broth, about eight hours , a faggot of fweet herbs, a clove of garlick, two fhallots ,

four cloves , half

a nutmeg,

pepper,

and falt ; when it is done, fift the broth, fkim it very well, and ferve it with the beef.

Culotte de Boeuf au Vin de Champagne. Rump of Beef stewed with White- wine. MARINADE the beef two days , firſt well rubbed with falt ; put it in a pan with a pint of oil, four cloves of garlick, laurel -leaves , thyme, bafil,

fpices,

two

and fix cloves ;

ftew it with the marinade, and a bottle of white-wine ; fift the broth for fauce , ſkim it well, add a little cullis , and reduce it to a proper confiftence . Culotte de Boeuf à la Royale. Rump of Beef, court-fafhion. GARNISH your pot with flices of beef, veal, and ham ; then put in the rump boned , fliced onions, carrots, parfnips, turnips, a few flices of lard, pepper, and falt ; foak it about an hour ; then add a pint of white -wine , as much broth, a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs, two cloves of garlick, four cloves , and half a nutmeg ; fimmer it about five or fix hours ; when done, take it out, and wipe the fat clean off with a cloth ; ferve upon it a ragout

MODERN COOKERY.

ragout of fweet breads,

fat livers ,

71

cockf-

combs, muſhrooms , artichokes bottoms, and forced eggs : you'll find the way to make it in the directions for ragouts .

Culotte de Boeuf a la Sainte Menehoult. Rump of Beef, Saint Menehoult. TIE it well, and boil it to above half in water, with roots ; then braze it in broth and falt, fufficiently to give tafte ; then put it upon the diſh you intend to ferve upon ; make a batter with a little good cullis, a little butter, and fix yolks of eggs ; bafte the beef with it and bread-crumbs ; bake in the oven .

Filets de Aloyau de Boeuf de toutes façons. Fillets Sirloin of Beef, different faſhions. CUT a fillet of beef out of the firloin ; take out all the finews, and lard it neatly ; put it in a ſtew-pan with a little melted lard or butter, parſley, fhallots, mushrooms , whole pepper, and falt ; fimmer it fome time ; then put it in a braze, with flices of veal , ham, and lard ; ftew on a flow fire ; when half done , add a little white-wine ; when it is done , fift the fauce, and fkim it well from fat ; mix a little cullis, and ferve it upon the fillet. If you would ſerve it with different fauces or ra1 gouts ; when it is larded , ftew it in broth, a little white-wine, a faggot of parsley, green onions, and ſweet herbs, a clove of garlick, two cloves, one carrot, and fmall onions ; when it is done , you may ferve upon it what E 4

fauce

1

THE

72

PRACTICE

OF

fauce or ragout you pleaſe. You may alſo lard and drefs this fillet as a fricandeau. A roafted fillet may alfo be dreffed in the fame manner

when cold , cut it in flices, and ferve

it with ftewed cucumbers or any other garden ftuff ; only put the meat to warm , without boiling .

Aloyau de Boeuf au four. Sirloin of Beef baked in the oven. ACCORDING to the bignefs of the piece, take a deep pan, and garnish the bottom with a few flices of lard ; put in your beef, a faggot of parsley, green onions, fweet herbs , fhallots, a clove of garlick, four cloves , pepper and falt; foak it half an hour over the fire , and put to it a bottle of Rheniſh - wine ; when ready to boil, cover it well, and put it in the oven five or fix hours ; when done, fift the fauce, fkim off the fat, and ſerve it with the beef. Aloyau en Ragout.

Sirloin Ragout .

CUT your firloin in what fize you pleaſe; lard and braze it in broth, and a pint of whitewine, a faggot of fweet herbs, onions and roots ; when done , take it out, ferve with a ragout of ſweetbreads , mushrooms , or other. Aloyau àla Dauphine .

Sirloin Dauphin- faſhion .

TAKE a firloin ; bone it ; make a hole in the middle, large enough to put in it a falpicon, viz. ftuffing, after this manner : Cut a piece of raw ham in pretty large bits , a fowl or chicken

MODERN COOKERY .

73

en boned, two fcalded fweetbreads, a tongue, all minced together, with chopt parſley, ſhallots, a clove of garlick, mushrooms , falt, and pepper, raſped lard, laurel and thyme, four yolks of eggs ; put it in the beef, and fecure it well ; ftew it in a pot near to its bignefs , with a little broth, a bottle of white-wine, a large faggot, three cloves , a laurel- leaf, a little tarragon, four onions , and a few roots ; finiſh on a flow fire ; ferve upon it a fauce à l'Efpagnole . Filet d'Aloyau de Boeuf en Crepine. Fillet of Sirloin of Beef in coul. TAKE the fillet from the firloin, or ribs take off

all its finews ;

fplit it lengthwife

in different places, and fill them with a light forced meat, mushrooms ,

made of fcraped lard, truffles,

fhallots ,

chopt

pepper , and

falt, two yolks of eggs , and the juice of half a lemon ; then roll them in veal coul, and tie it to a long ſkewer to roaft, bafting with oil and white-wine ; when almoſt done, take it off the fkewer, ſweat it a little in a few -pan, and it will yield its gravy ; take off the coul, and ferve the gravy upon it ; if you have no veal coul, roll the fillet or fillets in buttered paper, which will anfwer very well . Filet d'Aloyau de Boeuf dux fines herbes.. Fillet of Beef and ſweet herbs.

LARD a fillet of beef with large pieces ; let it catch a little in a ftew-pan with butter, a bottle of white-wine , and broth , ſalt and рер-

per ;

THE PRACTICE OF 74 per ; ftew on a flow fire ; when three parts. done, fkim off the fat ; add to it a piece of butter rolled in flour, chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms , and a few tarragon leaves ;

put

the fillet in it to finish, and reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence. Filet de Boeuf á l'Intendante. Fillet of Beef Commiffary-fashion . MAKE forced-meat of fowls livers , rafped lard or butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, mufhrooms , falt and pepper, three yolks of eggs ; cut a fillet into two, flaten it with your cleaver, and lard it through with middling pieces of bacon ; then lay the forced meat upon it, tie it in a cloth, and ſtew it in broth, with a little white-wine and a faggot of fweet-herbs ; when . done, ferve with a ragout of fweetbreads or truffles, &c. & c . Filet de Boeuf aux Anchois. Fillet of Beef and Anchovies.

1 SOAK fix

anchovies in water about two

hours ; ſplit them , and lard the fillet with them, intermixed with bacon ; ftew it on a flow fire, with a little broth and white-wine , a clove of garlick, two cloves , a faggot of parſley, green onions and ſweet herbs ; when done, fift the fauce ; add a little butter rolled in flour, and a few whole capers ; make a liafon of eggs and cream ; ferve it upon the fillet.

Filet

MODERN COOKERY.

75

Filet de Boeuf á l'Amiral. Fillet of Beef Admiral- faſhion . SLICE fix onions ; fry them in butter ; add two chopt anchovies, a little raſped lard, two yolks of eggs , a little falt, and powdered bafil ; fcald the fillet of beef in boiling water ; cut

it

different places

without feparating,

and between put fome of the ftuffing ; tie it up in veal coul , and roaſt it ; ſerve with cullis , jelly-broth, and juice of lemon .

Filet de BoeufGalaffe. Fillet of Beef and Jelly. MAKE a jelly with a knuckle of veal and trimmings of poultry ; boil in water ; fkim it well ; when done, fift the broth ; put it again on the fire with a little white- wine ; boil it until it is ftrong enough ; add two or three eggs , fhells and all, and run it through a jelly-bag ; lard the fillet with lard and ham , and braze it very tender ; let it cool in the braze ; then flice what quantity you pleaſe, put it in the diſh you intend for table , put fome of the jelly over it a little warm , and cool it with ice or in a very cool place.

Filet de Boeuf á la Nivernois. Fillet of Beef, with Nivernois Sauce. MAKE a marinade with butter and flour, half a glaſs of vinegar, a little broth, pepper and falt, a little coriander pounded , a laurelleaf, thyme,` bafil, two cloves of garlick, three cloves,

THE

76

PRACTICE OF

cloves , and two fliced onions ; make it milkwarm ; put a larded fillet in it for four or five hours ; then take it out , tie it in buttered paper, and roaft it ; ferve it with a fauce á la Nivernois .

See page 32.

Filet de Boeuf á la Gendarme *. Fillet of Beef, Gendarme-faſhion . CUT a fillet of beef in large flices ; marinade in oil, parfley, chibbol, a clove of garlick, mushrooms, falt and pepper ; put them on ſmall ſkewers ; roll them in paper with the´ marinade , and roaft them ; make a fauce, with a little cullis , white-wine, pepper, falt, and a few ſweet herbs,

firft fcalded and

finely

chopt.

Poitrine de Boeuf á la Monarque. Breaft of Beef, Monarch-fafhion .

STEW a breaft of beef in broth, with

a

pint of white-wine, a faggot of ſweet herbs , two cloves of garlick, four fpice- cloves, laurel- leaves,

thyme, fhallots, half a nutmeg,

pepper and falt ; when done, cut a hole in the middle, large enough to put a little forced meat, a ragout ofpigeons, fweet- breads, cockfcombs, fat livers , muſhrooms , or other ; cover it over with forced meat, and put it a while in the oven ; when ready, ferve upon it a fauce pretty thick, made with cullis, butter, and four yolks of eggs .

* Gendarme, part of the French king's body- guards. Poitrine

e

MODERN COOKERY.

77

Poitrine de Boeufá la St Menehoult. Breaft of Beef broiled St Menehoult. TIE the breaft with pack-thread , and halfboil it in the common way ; then put it in a braze with broth, pepper and falt, a faggot of parfley, fhallots, a clove of garlick, four ſpicecloves, thyme, laurel, fliced onions, and roots ; finish it in the braze, put it upon the diſh , and over it a fauce as the preceding ; then bread-crumbs ; give it a colour in the oven, wipe the diſh free from fat, and ferve upon it a relishing-fauce. A breaft of beef brazed, or plain boiled , may be ferved with any fauce, ragout, or ftewed herbs or roots, fuch as conveniency ferves.

Côte ou Carbonade de Boeuf au four. A Rib of Beef done in the Oven . TAKE a rib or ribs of beef pretty full of flesh ; ftew it in a thin braze, with broth, a little falt, fliced onions, and roots ; when it is done, fift the broth, and reduce it to a glaze ; baſte the rib or ribs with it, and let it cool ; take a little fcraped lard, or butter, which you mix with chopt parſley , ſhallots , a trifle ofgarlick, mushrooms , thyme, laurel, and -bafil ; put all upon the beef, roll it up in paper, and put it in the oven half an hour ; then take off the paper, and make a fauce with cullis and a little verjuice or lemon ; gather all the chopt herbs which ſtick to the paper, and mix with the fauce ; add falt and pepper to taſte. Côte

78

PRACTICE

THE

OF

Côte de Boeuf á l'Angloife. Rib of Beef, Engliſh-faſhion . FLATTEN arib of beef, and fimmer it a little in hog's lard ; then braze it in the fame lard over a flow fire,

with a little white-wine and

broth, all forts of ſweet-herbs finely chopt, with pepper and falt ; when done, fkim and fift the broth ; make a liaſon with it and the yolks of three eggs, and ferve upon the meat. Côte de Boeuf a la Hollandoife. Rib of Beef, Dutch- faſhion.

CUT thin ribs of beef; bone them all to a bit at the thin end ; foak them in butter, till they are almoſt done ; let them cool , and take their gravy, which you mix with forced- meat, made of veal, beef-fuet,

chervil ,

tarragon ,

burnet, garden-creffes , pepper , falt, and nutmeg, with three yolks of eggs ; wrap up the beef in the forced-meat ; bake it in the oven ; take ſome of the gravy, mixed with cullis or juice of lemon, pepper and falt, and ſerve upon your meat.

OF VEA L.

Tête de Veau á la Farce. Calve's-head with forced -meat. TAKE a calve's -head well cleaned , with the fkin on ; bone it ; make forced-meat, with fillet of veal , beef-fuet, bread-crumbs , cream , parfley,

MODERN COOKERY.

79

parſley, ſhallots, muſhrooms, four yolks of eggs, pepper and falt ; put fome of this preparation in the head ; leave room in the middle to put a well-feafoned ragout, as pigeons, fweetbreads ,

or other ;

forced meat,

and make the form of the head

cover it

over with

as near as poffible ; garnish it with flices of lard tied in a cloth ; braze it in broth with white-wine and fweet-herbs ; ferve upon it a Spaniſh or Italian fauce, or what you think proper. Tête de Veau a la Poivrade. Calve's- head with fharp Sauce. TAKE a calve's -head being well cleaned, bone it as far as the eyes, and boil it with ſome pickled pork ; when done, ferve both in the fame difh ; boil half a glaſs of vinegar, as much broth, chopt fhallots and onions ; fift it, add pepper and ſalt , and ſerve it upon the head.

Tête de Veau en Crépine. Calve's - head in Coul. TAKE

a

calve's- head being cleaned and

boiled, bone and trim it, mince the trimmings and tongue together with a raw fowl ; add to this chopt parſley, chibbol, muſhrooms, fhallots ,

pepper

and

with the brains ,

falt ;

make forced- meat

four yolks

of hard

eggs

and two raw ones, bread- crumbs and cream ; lay

fome of this

forced-meat

upon

the

head, then the fillets as prepared, then the reft of the forced-meat ; then roll it in the coul,

THE PRACTICE OF

80

coul, and braze it in white-wine and broth ; when done, take off the coul ; ferve upon it a pontiff fauce : you will find it in the Saucearticles.

Tête de Veau á la Sauce au Porc fraife. Calve's-head with freſh Pork Sauce . SCALD and bone a calve's - head ;

boil it in

broth, with a few flices of lard ; when done , take it out and wipe it clean ; ferve upon it the above fauce : you will find it in the Saucearticles. Tête de Veau á la Saint Menehoult. Calve's-head St Menehoult. TRIM the muzzle off near the eyes without cutting the tongue ; foak it in feveral waters to

clean

it ; boil it in

water

with

a few

onions, cloves and falt ; when done, make a forced-meat with the brains, roafted poultry, butter, bread-crumbs , cream or milk, parſley, mushrooms, two or three yolks of eggs, pepper and falt ; ftuff it in the room brains, and

in the

ears ; upon this

of the put

a

thick fauce made of cullis, a little butter and flour, three yolks of eggs , then crumbs of bread ; bake it in the oven till of a fine colour, and ſerve with a reliſhing fauce . Oreilles de Veau frites.

Calve's -ears fried .

BRAZE the ears in a ſtrong braze to make them tender, and make a batter thus : Take a handful of flour, put it in a bowl or ſtew- pan, add

MODERN COOKERY.

81

add one egg and a little falt, mix with as much ſmall beer as will make it of a proper confiftence, then add about a table-fpoonful of fine oil ; when well mixed , put the ears to it, have ready a ftew-pan with hog's - lard properly hot, put in the ears one by one with as much of the batter as will ſtick to them, fry ofa fine colour, and ſerve them with fried parſley : they may alſo be ftuffed with good forced-meat ; inftead of the above batter, you may baſte them with yolks of eggs and breadcrumbs . Oreilles de Veau en menus droits. Calves Ears fhredded.

BRAZE the ears , and cut them in fillets (it is the cutting that gives the name) ; ferve them with Robert-fauce, as you will find in the Sauce-articles. Oreilles de Veau au Pontiffe. Calves Ears, Pontiff Sauce. BRAZE the ears very white

and tender;

take them out, and wipe them very dry ; ſerve them upon pontiff fauce.

Oreilles de Veau á la Martine. Calves Ears Houſewife-faſhion. MAKE a fauce with a little jelly-broth and white-wine, a little butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper and falt ; boil it to a thick confiftence ; when done, add the juice of half a Seville orange, and ferve it upon brazed ears. Oreilles F

THE

82

PRACTICE OF

Oreilles de Veau grillés.

Calves Ears broiled.

BOIL the ears in broth till tender, with a faggot of ſweet- herbs, thyme, laurel, and cloves ; when done, fplit them in two, bafte them with yolks of eggs and bread-crumbs, broił of a fine colour, bafting now and then with butter ; ferve with a Nivernois , as in Saucearticles.

Oreilles de Veau au Fromage. Calves Ears and Cheeſe. THE ears being brazed , foak them in melted butter , bread - crumbs , and rafped Parmefan ; put them in the oven to take a good colour ; make a little forced-meat, with raſped cheeſe, bread- crumbs , and three yolks of eggs ; lay it on the difh you intend to ferve in, let it catch a little in the oven , lay the ears upon it, and add a good cullis fauce . Oreilles deVeau à l'Italienne. Calves Ears, Italian Sauce. BRAZE the ears in a ſtrong white braze with fpices

and a few lemon-flices ,

wipe

them dry, and ferve upon them an Italian fauce, as you will find in Sauce-articles . Cervelles de Veau à la Bechamel. Calves Brains ,

Bechamel Sauce.

SOAK and fcald the brains ; then boil them in broth, with two flices of lemon,

ſweet-

herbs, a clove of garlick, two cloves ; when done,

1

MODERN COOKERY. done, wipe them dry, chamel fauce.

83

and ferve with a Be-

N. B. You may cover them, when boiling, with thin flices of lard , which will keep them whiter.

Cervelles de Veau aux petits Oignons. Calves Brains and fmall Onions. SCALD as many fmall onions as you think proper ; braze them with the brains in good a few flices of lard , a glaſs of white-

broth, wine,

pepper and falt,

a faggot

of fweet-

herbs ; then drain the brains and onions ; diſh them ; ferve with it fauce ravigotte, or any other you pleaſe. Cervelles de Veau frites .

Calves Brains fried .

CUT the brains in four pieces ; braze them about half an hour in broth and white-wine, two flices of lemon , pepper and ſalt, thyme, D laurel, cloves, parfley, and ſhallots ; then drain and foak them in batter made of white-wine, a little oil, and a little falt, and fry them of a fine colour ; you may likewiſe baſte them with eggs and bread-crumbs ; garnish with fried parſley.

Cervelles de Veau á la Gascogne. Calves Brains Gafcoon-faſhion . MAKE a fauce with a little butter , breadcrumbs , a clove of garlick, chopt parfley and fhallots, a glafs of white-wine, as much broth, pepper and falt ; reduce to a fauce confiftence, and ſerve it upon brazed brains. F 2 Cervelles

P

•

84

TH

E

OF

PR

AC

TI

C Reveil. Cervelles de Veau auE

Calve's-brains , Muſtard -ſauce. THE brains being brazed as the former, make a batter with cullis , butter, and muftard ; bathe the brains in it, and roll them in breadcrumbs and cheeſe ; give them colour in the oven or with a falamander ; ferve upon cullis and muftard .

The meaning of reveil is to

quicken the palate , &c . Cervelles de Veau á differentes Sauces. Calve's-brains of different Faſhions and with different Sauces.

BRAINS brazed in broth and wine as directed, may be uſed with what fauce or ragout is moft convenient , fuch as fat livers , pigeons, faufages , onions , capers , forced-meat balls, fried bread, & c. & c. Yeux de Veau de differentes façons. Calve's-eyes of different faſhions . WHEN they are done like the brains, you may either fry or boil them, making the fame preparation ; they will ferve in matelots or tureen , or by themſelves with any ſauce.

Langue de Veau. Calves Tongues. ( See Beef's Tongue.)

CALVES tongues are dreffed after the fame manner as beef's, allowing for the difference of time in boiling or baking, &c.

Fraife

MODERN COOKERY.

85

Fraife de Veau au naturel. Calves Caldron in a plain way. SOAK it well , and fcald it ; then boil it in water with a bit of butter and flour, pepper and ſalt, a faggot of fweet- herbs, three or four onions, three cloves ; { when done, take it out and ſerve it with a fharp fauce.

Fraife de Veau au Soleil. Calves Caldron fried of a fine bright colour. BOIL it as before ; cut it in pieces ; marinade an hour in vinegar and broth, whole pepper and falt, cloves, fliced onions ; drain it, and fry it with a good thick batter (made of flour, white-wine, and a little oil and falt) of a fine clear brown.

N. B. Soleil, meaning bright as the fun. Fraife de Veau á la Provençale. Calves Caldron Provence-faſhion . THE caldron being boiled as the former ; cut it in fillets or fmall pieces ; make a fauce with butter, chopt muſhrooms, a little garlick,

a glass of white-wine,

little oil,

pepper

and falt ;

and broth,

reduce

a

it to a

fauce ; put the caldron in a little before you ſerve, and add the fqueeze of a lemon. N. B. You make it without either oil or garlick, according to the palate of the eater.

F 3

Bignets

THE

· 86

OF

PRACT

ICE

Bignets de Fraife de Veau. Fritters of Calves Caldron . BOIL it the fame as the former ; then cut it in ſmall pieces ; marinade about an hour in butter, pepper and falt, fhallots ;

chopt parſley and

make the herbs ſtick to it , dip it in

batter, fry of a fine colour, and garnish with fried parſley .

Tourtes de Fraife de Veau. Calves Caldron Pie. MAKE a good puff- pafte ; cover the bottom of your pie-difh ; then put it in paper to keep it

of a proper fhape ;

cover

and bake it ;

make a ragout with the caldron (firft well boiled) pepper

with mushrooms , parfley, fhallots , and falt, a little white-wine and

cullis ; reduce to a good confiftence ; put to it the caldron cut in flices ; fkim the fat very clean off ;

when ready to

ferve,

add

the

fqueeze of a lemon, and put it in your pie, Foie de Veau à la Rocombole. Calves Liver with green Shallots or Chibbol. CHOP green fhallots and muſhrooms ; cut the liver in thin flices ; put all together in a ftew-pan, with a little butter rolled in flour, and a glafs of white -wine ; ftew flowly for about half an hour ; add pepper and falt, and vinegar, to your tafte : If you would have it white, make a liafon of yolks of eggs and cream ,

MO ODER M COOKE N R

Y.

cream , with lemon or verjuice.

87

This is called .

à la pulette, when white. N. B. The rocombole is much the fame reliſhing herb as thofe mentioned, fo much cultivated in this country .

but not

Foie de Veau a la Broche.

Calves Liver (á la Broche) the Spit. LARD the liver with large pieces of lard, rolled in fine fpices ; roaſt it, and ſerve with a reliſhing or ſharp fauce. Foie de Veau en Hatereaux . Calves-liver Haflets . CUT the liver in pretty large pieces ; marinade with butter, pepper and ſalt, fweet herbs chopt ; let it ſtew for fome time over a flow fire ; then roll it in veal-coul with as much fauce as poffible ; tie it upon an haflet , viz . a large fkewer or lark-fpit ; ferve with it a reliſhing-fauce, as l'Afpic, Nivernois , or other. N. B. In this , as well as all other receipts, where veal-coul is recommended , and perhaps not convenient to get it, if it is tied properly up with buttered paper, it will answer the fame

purpoſe. Foie de Veau à la braife. Calves Liver brazed . LARD the liver with large lardons , or pieces of bacon ; braze it in a ftew-pan, with a few " flices of lard, fweet-herbs, laurel , onions , roots , a gill of white-wine , and a little broth ; F4 ftew

1

THE

88

PRACTICE

OF

ftew it about half an hour ; ferve with a reliſhing fauce, or reduce its own fauce if not too falt : ſkim off the fat ; fift it ; add a little butter and flour boiled , chopt parſley, and vinegar, or lemon-juice.

Sauciffes de Foie de Veau. Calve's-liver Sauſages . THEY are made after the fame manner as pork, or any meat ; the meat uſed gives the

name. Rognon de Veau de plufieurs façons. Veal-kidney of different faſhions .

MIX fliced onions and minced kidney ; fry them in butter ;

then add a little broth, a

glafs of white- wine, pepper and falt ; ferve with a liafon of three yolks of eggs and cream

if you would have it brown, inſtead

of eggs and cream, ufe cullis fauce : you may alfo ferve them broiled , with a fharp or reliſhing fauce.

Roaſted kidneys ferve to make omelets, toafts , & c. and are very good to mix with moſt forced - meats ,

Pieds de Veau de plufieurs façons. Calves Feet of different faſhions . CALVE's feet in

a plain way are boiled

like the caldron , and eat with a fharp fauce ; when plain boiled , you may make them à la poulette, viz. fricaffee ;

alfo en menus droits,

cut in fmall fhreds or fillets ; alſo fried ; ſplit them

MODERN COOKERY .

89

them in two, take out the large bones, foak in marinade, then in batter to fry ; if to broil, uſe eggs and bread- crumbs. Pieds de Veau farcies. Calves Feet with Forced- meat. BONE them,

and fill them with forced-

meat made of whatever you pleaſe ; tie them in flices of lard ; ftew them flowly in broth and

white-wine,

a faggot

of ſweet- herbs ,

a few cloves, roots and onions ; when done, ſerve with what fauce you pleaſe. Pieds de Veau au Citron. Calves Feet with Lemon-fauce . TAKE calves feet plain boiled ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a little oil or butter, half a lemon peeled and fliced, as much broth and cullis as will fimmer them on a flow fire for about half an hour ; take them out and wipe them ; fift the fauce ; fkim it well ; add a little butter rolled in flour, a little cullis, a chopt anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon .

Ris de Veau de plufieurs façons. Sweetbreads of different fashions. SWEETBREADS are very uſeful in

many

diſhes, as in pies, ragouts, fricaffees , & c . and to ufe alone, either fried, roafted, broiled , or otherwiſe

they must be foaked in warm wa-

ter an hour or two, then ſcalded about a quarter ofan hour in boiling water, which is commonly called fetting, or blanching, which will make them

THE

90

PRACTICE

them keep longer,

OF

and are ready for any

ufe you pleaſe to put them to. Ris de Veau à la Duchefs. Calves Sweetbreads Duchefs-faſhion . SCALD the ſweetbreads ,

and lard

with

fine lard ; put a little farcie called falpicon, made with muſhrooms, truffles , and fat livers ; few it up ;

ftew them in good veal-

broth, and render the fauce to a glaze ; ferve with a wine-fauce, orange, or other. N. B. You may do them with the falpicon if you pleaſe ; you muſt remember to take out the ſweetbreads when done, till you reduce the fauce to a glaze .

Ris de Veau au Pontiff. Calves Sweetbreads , Pontiff Sauce. BRAZE them in the former manner ; wipe them clean from fat, and ferve with fauce au pontiff, as you will find in the directions for fauces .

Ris de Veau en Heriffon. Calves Sweetbreads as Hedge-hogs . SCALD the fweetbreads, and lard them with ham and truffles cut in fmall lardons or ' pieces ;

fry a fhort time in butter ; let the

lardons or pieces ſtick out a little , to make the appearance of briftles ; fimmer them in the fame butter, with broth and a little whitewine, very little falt and pepper ; when done, fkim and ftrain the fauce ; add a little cullis , and

MODERN COOKERY.

91

and ferve upon them ; you may alſo uſe any other fauce. As fweetbreads are of an infipid taſte of themſelves, obferve as a general rule, to ſerve a fharp relifhing fauce with them, either

cullis-fauce ,

fricaffee,

or fine herbs ,

viz . ſweet- herbs : as they are nothing of themfelves, the fauce being diverſified gives the name ; all cooks take that licenfe, as the diſh is rather infipid, and call them ſweet- breads à la what you please ; always taking care to braze them tender and white. Riffolles à la choify.

Fried Forced - meat.

N. B. Riffoles are made of any forts of forced-meats , following the fame direction . Boil a piece of udder in broth , with parfley, fhallots, onions, roots , pepper and ſalt ; when done, let it cool, and cut it in thin flices ; put a good poultry forced- meat in one or two flices, and fo on till there are as many as you want ; baſte them with whites of eggs , and roll them in bread-crumbs ; fry them of a fine clear brown ; garnish with fried parfley ; and forced-meat done in the ſame manner, in thin hard pafte , will anfwer very well . Queues de Veau aux Choux.

Calves Tails and Cabbages . SCALD calves tails and pickled pork ; fcald alfo a good favoy, about half an hour ; take it out, and preſs the water out of it ; cut it in quarters ; tie it, and braze all together in broth, flices of lard, fpices and herbs, as all other

TICE

THE PRAC

92

OF

other brazes ; when done, take them out, and clean all free from fat ; ferve upon them good thick cullis ; if you would have the cabbage as four-crout, add vinegar ; you muſt obſerve, that the pork will take longer time to braze than the tails.

Queues de Veau plufieurs façons. Calves Tails of different faſhions . ALWAYS fcald or ſet them firft ; braze them as the former ; ferve them with different fauces or ragouts, fried or broiled with any ſharp fauce in a fauce- boat.

To avoid a repetition of queues de veau au gartin, and farcies, as the directions are already given in different places, I ſhall only add, All thoſe forts of infignificant things are to be brazed in white brazes ; which are called fo, by putting flices of lemon in , as

it

has the power of making the brazed meat very white, at the fame time that it gives it a fharpnefs required in all infipid meat, but very little of it to be uſed, wherein the braze is to ferve for fauce when well fkimmed and ftrained . Tendrons de Veau au petit Pois. Veal- griftles and green Peaſe. CUT the griftles of a breaſt of veal in pieces ; fcald them , if you would have them white;; ; ſtew them in broth with a few flices of lard, half a lemon peeled and fliced, whole pepper and ſalt, and a faggot of ſweet-herbs ; when

MODERN COOKERY . 93 when done, wipe them clean, and ſerve the ftewed peaſe upon them ; you may alſo, when the meat is about quarter done, take it out ofthe braze, and put it in a ſtew- pan with the peaſe, a little butter, parfley, a little winter-favory, a flice of ham, and a few cabbage- lettuces cut fmall ; add a little cullis and flour ; reduce the fauce pretty thick ; falt only a little before you ſerve.

Tendrons de Veau printanieres. Veal-griftles, Spring-fauce, from the green colour. PREPARE the griftles as the former ; then take them out of the braze, and put them in a ftew-pan with a piece of butter, a faggot of parſley and ſweet- herbs ,

a few fhallots,

and three cloves ; let them catch a little ; then add a little good broth , a glaſs of white-wine, pepper and falt ; then make a liafon in this manner, Scald a handful of green wheat about a quarter of an hour, fqueeze the water out, pound it to produce a large ſpoonful of juice, ftrain the fauce , and mix this juice with it, and reduce it to a proper fauce. Tendrons de Veaufrits.

Veal -griftles fried .

SCALD them ; then ftew them on a flow fire with a little broth, a glaſs of white-wine, a faggot of parfley, fweet-herbs, fhallots, a clove of garlick, two cloves, pepper and ſalt ; when done , take out the faggot , cloves , and garlick ; reduce the fauce to make it ſtick to the

THE PRACTICE 94

OF

the meat ; then dip your griftles in batter, or roil them in bread- crumbs ; fry them of a good colour : ferve either dry, or with a clear fauce ; if dry, garnish with fried parſley.

Tendrons de Veau à la poulette. Fricaffee of Veal-griftles . WHEN fcalded, put them in a few- pan, with a flice of ham, a few mushrooms, a little butter and flour , a faggot of parſley and fweet-herbs, an onion ftuck with two cloves ; give them a few turns ; add

a little broth,

and a glaſs of white-wine ; reduce the fauce ; fkim it well, and make a liafon with the yolks of three eggs and cream ; when ready to ferve, add the liafon ; keep it moving, do not let it boil ; when thick enough, add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it up as hot as poffible.

Tendrons de Veau au Legumes. Veal- griftle with any fort of Greens . ' WHEN fcalded, braze them in broth, flices of lard,

and of lemon firſt peeled,

whole

pepper and ſalt, and a faggot of ſweet- herbs ; ftew them flowly ; when done, wipe the fat off; and ferve upon ftewed greens, or what fauce you pleaſe.

Tendrons de Veau en fricandeau . Griftle or Breaſt of Veal fricandeau. TAKE off the ſkin, leave the breaft whole, fcald it in boiling water, then lard it ; put it in a ftew-pan with flices of ham and its own trim-

MODERN COOKERY.

95

trimmings, a faggot of fweet-herbs , ſhallots , an onion ſtuck with two cloves, broth, and a little whole pepper ; ftew on a flow fire ; when done, ftrain and ſkim the fauce ; reduce it to a glaze, and ſpread upon the larded fide with feathers or a bruſh ; then add a little cullis and broth to gather the remains of the glaze , and ftrain it under the meat ; ferve it with ſtewed greens, as forrel, lettuces, endive, & c. & c. Poitrine de Veau à l'Italienne. Breaft of Veal Italian faſhion . SCALD it as ufual ; then ſtew it over a flow fire,

with broth and a little white-wine, a

fpoonful of oil, two flices of peeled lemon , whole pepper and falt,

a faggot of fweet-

herbs , two onions ſtuck with four cloves, one clove of garlick,

and a little bafil ;

when

done, wipe the fat clean off ; take the ſkin off the griſtle,

or leave it on , just as you

pleafe ; ferve with it an Italian fauce , which you will find in the Sauce - articles .

Poitrine de Veau frite. Breaft of Veal fried .

It is prepared the fame as the tendrons or griftles, only leave the upper ſkin on ; when it

is fried with bread -crumbs , and ferved with y fried parſley , it is commonl called au bafilic : l y u yo ma alſo broi or bake it, being bafted with eggs and crumbs of bread over ; if broiled or baked , when it has got a fet , baſte it with good butter , which will keep it from burning,

96

THE

PRACTICE

OF

burning, and make it take a proper colour ; ſerve with a reliſhing fauce.

Poitrine de Veau en Surpriſe. Breaft of Veal maſked . MAKE a good forced-meat with veal , beef, fuet, bread-crumbs , cream or milk, parſley, fhallots , chibbol, or green onions , and muſhrooms, eggs

all finely chopt ; add four yolks of the breaft being brazed , put it on the

diſh you intend to go to table ; make a circle round it with the forced-meat ; put in the middle a good ragout made of fweet-breads , cockſcombs , fat livers , truffles , and morels , or what you pleaſe ; cover it over with the forcedmeat; bafte it with yolks of eggs , and breadcrumbs ; bake it in the oven : when done of a good colour, wipe the fat off the dish, cut out the top of the forced-meat, put in a good fauce, and cover it again with the forced- meat which was cut out : you may alſo make it without putting in a ragout ; but when baked, muft add the fauce as directed .

N. B. Obferve to trim either breafts , necks, or any other big joint, properly, when dreffed whole ; this is beſt judged by the ſize of the diſhes . Oreilles de Veau farcies à la Quenelles . Calves Ears ftuffed with Forced- meat. · BRAZE the ears white, and ftuff them with the forced-meat of quenelles , as it is explained for the quenelles de poularde, viz. fowl ; dip

MODERN COOKERY. 97 dip the ears in thick batter,

or baſte with

yolks of eggs and bread- crumbs , and fry or bake them of a good colour ; garnish with fried parſley .

Poitrine de Veau marineé. Breaft of Veal marinaded . CUT the breaſt of veal in pieces ; ſtew it in broth to about three parts done ; then marinade about an hour with two ſpoonfuls of vinegar, a little of its own broth, whole pepper and falt, four cloves, two cloves garlick, fliced onions, and thyme ; then drain it, and fry of a good colour ; garnish with fried parfley. You may alfo do it with a batter, or bafte it with bread- crumbs and yolks of eggs, and fry it as above.

Poitrine de Veau farcie en Ragout. Ragout of Breaft of Veal ftuffed. STUFF a breaft of veal with good forcedmeat, between the ſkin and the griftle ; faſten it well, that the ftuffing cannot get out ; ftew it in broth, with a glass of white- wine, a faggot of fweet-herbs , pepper and falt ; when done, ſerve upon it a good ragout, made of fweetbreads, mushrooms , palates, cockſcombs , truffles, or what you pleaſe ; you will find the way to make it in the Ragout- articles . Poitrine de Veau au Court Bouillon. Breaft of Veal in its own Sauce. PUT a breaſt of veal in a ſtew-pan of its own G

T

1

-98

THE

TICE

PRAC

OF

own length, with a little broth, a glaſs of white-wine, a faggot of fweet- herbs, a few muſhrooms, a little coriander tied in a bag, fliced roots, onions , pepper and falt ; ftew it flowly till very tender ; when ready to ferve, ftrain and fkim the fauce, and ferve it upon the meat.

Poitrine de Veau au Pontiff. Breaft of Veal , Pontiff Sauce. STUFF, and lard it ; tie it up in buttered paper, and roaft it ; when done, ſerve with a pontiff-fauce : you will find it in the Saucearticles. Cotelettes de Veau à la Mariée. Veal Cutlets Bride-faſhion. CUT a neck of veal in cutlets ; when ſcalded, put them in a ftew-pan with a little oil or butter, two laurel-leaves, a flice of ham, pepper and falt ; fimmer them about half an hour; then add a glaſs of white- wine, a little cullis , and a few chopt muſhrooms ; ſtew on a flow fire till done ; then take out the cutlets , alfo take out the ham and laurel-leaves ; fkim the fauce well , and add a little butter rolled in flour , with a little ſcalded chopt chervil ; when ready to ferve, half a lemon .

add the juice of

Cotelettes de Veau grilléės. Veal Cutlets broiled . TAKE fmall cutlets , flatten them a little, and

MODERN COOKERY.

99

and dip them in butter, with chopt parſley, ſhallots, pepper and falt ; make the herbs ftick to them ;

do them with or without bread-

crumbs ; broil flowly, or bake them in the oven ; ferve them with a cullis -fauce and lemon juice, or what fauce you think proper. Cotelettes de Veau en Ragout. Veal

Cutlets

Ragout .

THEY are brazed , and ferved in the fame manner as the breaft, with the fame fort of fhall think proper . ragouts, or ſuch as you

Cotelettes de Veau en Papillottes. Veal Cutlets in Paper. CHOP all forts of fweet herbs , mix them with a little oil or good butter, pepper and falt ;

cover the cutlets

with it, wrap them

in buttered paper, and broil them very flowly ; ſerve with or without fauce. Cotelettes de Veau marinées. Veal Cutlets marinaded . THEY are done as all former directions for marinade, or the breaft of veal marinaded , and ferved with any fauce .

Cotelettes de Veau compofees. Veal Cutlets compofed or fhammed .

TAKE a roafted neck of veal, or the remainder of one, and make a forced- meat of it ;

take beef-fuet or rafped lard , fweet herbs, muſhrooms , parfley, fhallots, bread- crumbs G 2 foaked

1

100

THE

PRACTICE

OF

foaked in milk or cream, pepper and ſalt, and the yolks of four eggs ; make this in the form of cutlets ; in the middle leave a cavity to put in it a ragout, fuch as truffles, cockſcombs , fweetbreads ,

palates, & c.;

ftick one rib to

each prepared cutlet ; baſte with eggs ; garniſh with bread-crumbs ; bake them in the oven till of a good colour , or fry them ; ferve them with a good reliſhing-fauce : you may alſo do them without the ragout, as directed above. Cotelettes de Veau en Fricandeau, Veal Cutlets Fricandeau , viz . Glazed . As this diſh is of fuch old practice , every perſon the leaft acquainted with cookery knows how to do it, either with cutlets or fillet ; it is done as in all other directions of the kind, and may be ſerved with ragouts, or ftewed herbs ; forrel is the moſt uſed, though endives, lettuces, and

alſo very

celery, are

good, being properly ragout or ſtewed.

Cotelettes de Veau aux fines Herbs. Veal Cutlets and ſweet Herbs. CHOP all forts of fweet herbs, fhallots , muſhrooms , pepper and

parſley,

falt ; put

in a ſtew-pan a fpoonful of oil or butter, and melt it ; add the fweet herbs and cutlets ; ftew on a flow fire ; reduce the fauce to make the herbs ftick to the cutlets ; let them cool ; take them

out, bafte

with

yolks of eggs,

and roll them in bread- crumbs ; bake in the oven till of a good 1 colour ; add a glaſs of white-

MODERN COOKERY.

ΤΟΙ

white-wine and a little cullis to the fauce ; fkim it well, and ſerve with the cutlets. Cotelettes de Veau aux petits Pois. Veal Cutlets and Green Peaſe. THIS is done after the ſame manner as the griftles , or whole breaſt. Cotelettes de Veau au Cruchon. Veal Cutlets in Cruft. CUT your cutlets properly, and make a marinade with melted lard or butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots, mushrooms, half a clove of garlick, pepper and falt ; ftew on a very flow fire about half an hour, then wrap them in puff-pafte with all the feafoning ; put them in a baking-diſh, baſte with yolks of eggs, make a hole in the middle of each , to put a good fauce in when ready to ſerve.

Cotelettes de Veau diverfifies. Veal Cutlets of different manners . THE cutlets being brazed very white and tender, may be ferved with what fauce you think proper ; they may be done with Parmefan cheeſe or ſmall onions, & c. &c.

Carre de Veau á la Servante *. Neck of Veal ſtewed. LARD it with large pieces of lard rolled in * All diſhes under this denomination are meant as common dreffing ; lafervante, the maid, who is fuppofed not to be s profeffed cook. The fame for thofe called au court-bouillon, or grasfel, meaning plain diſhes.. pepper G 3

102

THE PRACTICE OF

pepper and falt, fhallots, and fpices ; braze it with flices of lard, fliced roots, onions , a laurel-leaf, broth, and a little brandy ; fkim and fift the fauce, and ſerve it on the meat. Carré de Veau á la Poivrade.

Neck of Veal and ſharp Sauce. MAKE a marinade with butter and a little flour, fliced onions, roots , and a little coriander-feed, one clove of garlick , three ſpicecloves , thyme , laurel , bafil , pepper and falt ; warm it, and put in it a larded neck of veal ; let it lie in the marinade about two hours ; then wrap it in buttered paper, and roaſt it, and ferve with a poivrade fauce , as you will find in the Sauce-articles .

Carré de Veau au Monarque. Neck of Veal Monarch-faſhion . Cut the fillet of a neck of veal , and with it make a good forced-meat, with cow's -udder, fcraped lard or fuet, bread- crumbs foaked in milk or cream , pepper and falt, chopt parfley, fhallots , mushrooms, four yolks of eggs ; boil the remainder of the neck in the ſtockpot, till tender ; then take it out ; and when you cut out the meat, fill it with this forcedmeat, upon thin flices of fat livers and truffles ; cover it over with forced-meat, baſte with yolks of eggs and bread-crumbs , and a little butter over it ; bake it till of a good colour ; ferve with a Spanish fauce, or any other as you pleaſe.

N.B.

MODERN COOKERY.

103

N. B. You may do it without the fat livers or truffles if you pleaſe.

Carré de Veau en Surpriſe. Neck of Veal maſked . Ir is brazed,

and

done the fame as the

breaft ; the meat cut and ftuffed with forced meat, finiſhed in the oven , and ſerved with a 4 good fauce of what you pleaſe. Cuiffeau de Veau aux Epinards. Leg or Knuckle of Veal and Spinage.

IT is larded and brazed with all forts of roots and fpices

as ufual, and ferved upon

ftewed fpinage ;

it is the garden-ſtuff that

H gives it the name .

Cuiffeau de Veau á la Creme. Leg of Veal with white Sauce. LARD a leg of veal with large lardons ; let it foak twelve hours in marinade made after this manner : A piece of butter and flour, a quart of milk, two lemons peeled and fliced, fix fhallots , two cloves of garlick, fix onions fliced, eight cloves, three laurel - leaves, thyme andparſley, whole pepper and falt : Warm the marinade, and put it in a pot much about the bignefs of the veal ; wipe it dry before fpitting, and cover it with flices of lard and two ſheets of paper, or with buttered paper alone ; and ferve with poivrade,

or a cream fauce

made of a piece of butter and flour, a chopt anchovy, chopt parfley , and fhallots , grated G4

numeg,

104

THE

PRACTICE

OF

nutmeg, pepper and falt, and as much cream as neceffary ; when ready to ferve,

add the

juice of a lemon. N. B. It may alſo be done, as moſt others , without larding .

Cuiffeau de Veau á la daube. Leg of Veal daubed, or à la mode. IT is larded and brazed with all forts of roots and ſpices ; reduce the fauce to a gelly, 1 and ferve it with it either hot or cold .

Quartier de Veau au Chevreuil. Leg of Veal cut Veniſon-faſhion . IT is larded and marinaded as the former ; only adding vinegar and coriander, foaked as long, and roaſted ; when ready, ſerve with a reliſhing ſauce.

Quartier de Veau au Caramel. The fame cut as above and glazed . It is larded and brazed tender ; the fauce ftrained through a lawn-fieve, and well ſkimmed ; reduce it to a glaze, as for fricandeau ; when ready, ſerve with a ſharp fauce or ſtewed greens of any fort.

Epaul de Veau,

Shoulder of Veal,

IT It may be dreffed in every reſpect and faſhion as the leg ; I fhall only give the different names , to avoid repetition, which are á la poivrade, à l'Allemande, au naturel, & c. & c.

Grenadins

MODERN COOKERY.

105

Grenadins de Veau aux Anchois. Small Fricandeaus , Anchovy-fauce. GRENADINS differ only in fize from what are calledfricandeaux, being but ſmaller, larded or brazed, white or brown ; mix a glaſs of white-wine with a little cullis and their own fauce ; reduce to a proper thickneſs ; add two chopt anchovies ; ſkim it well, and ſerve under the grenadins . Riffolettes de Veau.

Veal Collops.

CUT thin flices of fillet of veal ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a little oil or butter, ſweet herbs chopt, pepper and falt ; let them catch a little, then add a little good broth ;

you

may add fome good forced-meat balls , either fried or blanched . If for brown , make a liaſon with flour and butter ;

let your collops ftew

flowly till done : if you want them white, when ready to ferve, add a liafon made of eggs and cream , a few bits of good butter, and the juice of half a lemon . Brefolles de Veau.

Veal Collops brazed.

CUT thin flices of fillet of veal,

as for

Scotch collops, or rather bigger ; put two or three flices of ham in the bottom of your ftew-pan ; then a down of flices of veal , pepper and falt, chopt parfley, fhallots, mufhrooms , truffles, and a little good oil, butter, or lard ; lay the fame three or four times over, cover with flices of lard , braze flowly ; when

106

THE

PRACTICE

OF

when done , take the ham and lard out of the fauce ; fkim and fift it ; add a little cullis if neceſſary ; when ready to ferve, add a little juice of lemon , and ferve with the brefolles. I only give this receipt for the learner ; as the profeffed cook well knows how to make the difference of himſelf, without any help that I can give.

Paupiettes de Veau.

Veal Olives .

MAKE a good forced-meat of poultry or other ; cut large thin flices of fillet of veal , baſte them with eggs,

roll forced- meat in

them to what bigneſs you pleaſe, and bind them with yolks of eggs . each with pack-thread ;

If for ftewing, tie ſtew flowly with a

little white-wine and cullis , a faggot ofſweetherbs, a few cloves and ſhallots ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce to ſerve upon them . If you would roaft or bake them , cut flices of bacon ofthe fame fize with the veal ; upon each ſlice of bacon put a flice of veal , with forcedmeat as above, and baſte with eggs and breadcrumbs ; when ready, ferve with what fauce you think proper . Paupiettes, or olives, may be made of what forts of meat you pleaſe, after the fame manner, ferving with different fauces. When roafted like haflets , the French name is en batereaux, viz. on fmall fkewers or lark-fpits. Poupeton.

Meat- pudding.

MAKE forced-meat with veal , fuet, breadcrumbs,

MODERN COOKERY.

107

crumbs foaked in milk or cream, chopt parfley, ſhallots and muſhrooms , yolks of eggs , pepper and falt ; garnish the bottom of your ftew-pan with flices of lard , or rub it well with good butter, (the pan must be much of the fame bignefs with the quantity you propoſe) : put three parts of your forced - meat in the pan ; make a hole in the middle , to put a ragout of pigeons, fweetbreads , palates , or any other you pleaſe ; cover it with the remainder ; bake it in the oven : when done, turn it out ; wipe the fat from it ; cut a hole in the top, and pour in a good fauce made of cullis, lemon-juice, &c.; cover the hole again. The ragout you put in it gives it the name. Marbrée.

Marbled,

Coloured , & c .

TAKE half a dozen of pigs -ears, and as many calves - ears and feet boned , and twelve palates ; fcald the palates till they will peel clean, then boil for half an hour in water ; take them

out,

and braze with broth, two

pounds of ham cut in large dices , a faggot of fweet-herbs, eight fhallots, two onions fuck . with fix cloves, half a nutmeg, carrots and parfnips, three cloves of garlick, three laurelleaves,

thyme

and

bafil ;

when done,

let

them cool ; take out the herbs , and cut all in fmall pieces,

with the flesh of two roaſted

fowls minced, a handful of ſweet-almonds blanched and peeled , and as much pistachionuts ; mix all together in a ſtew- pan , with a good deal of chopt parfley and fhallots , a

108

THE

PRACTICE OF

a bottle of white- wine, fome melted hogslard or butter, the juice of fix lemons , and all forts of fine fpices, being well pounded ; boil all together until the fauce is well reduced ; let it be almoft cold ; then take a ſtew-pan the bignefs

you would have the

cake,

rub it

over with butter, and garniſh it with wafers of different colours cut and difpofed according to fancy ; the meat being ftill warm , put it in your ſtew-pan well intermixed, and fet it in a cool place to ſettle ; when you want to uſe it, only dip the ſtew-pan in warm - water, and turn it over in the dish upon a napkin ; it may with flices of boiled truffles , pickles, or what you pleaſe.

be garnished

Grenade. BLANCH

A Grenado.

four craw-fifh and fome cauli-

flowers ; garnish the bottom of your ſtew-pan with flices of lard ; lay the four craw-fish at the bottom in form of a ftar, between them fome of the cauliflower, and fillets of ham , roafted fowl, and fliced truffles ; bafte with eggs , to make it ftick together ; then put a good

forced-meat over the

craw-fish

and

round the pan, of a good thickneſs , intermixed with fillets of ham and fowl ; leave a hole in the middle to put a good ragout in of what you pleaſe ; cover it over with forcedmeat ; bake it in the oven ; turn it out upon the diſh you intend for table, wipe the fat clean from it, and ferve with pontiff fauce or any other you pleaſe.

N. B.

MODERN COOKERY . 109 N. B. You may do it with flices of lard, rubbing the pan well with good butter ; it may alſo be done without truffles , as they are often hard to be got. Grenade en daube.

Grenado daubed .

TAKE fix grenadins or ſmall fricandeaus , being larded and glazed , as to ſerve by themfelves ; cut the remainder of the leg of veal into large dices , alſo larded with large pieces without form, and a fowl cut in pieces, which you boil with the laſt veal in broth , a pint of white-wine, a ſmall knuckle of veal , a faggot of parſley, green onions, and ſweetherbs ,

two cloves

of garlick,

four cloves,

two laurel-leaves, and a little celery and fine fpices ; when done,

garnish the bottom of

your ſtew-pan (which you muſt always proportion to the bignefs of the diſh you intend to make), thin flices of lard, then the fricandeaus, then the pieces of fowl between, then the pieces of veal ; finish in this manner ; ftrain the broth through a lawn-fieve, and pour it over this preparation ; let it cool to a jelly

when you want to uſe it, dip the ftew-

pan in warm -water,

and turn out gently ; if

you think the jelly will not be ſtrong enough, add a calve's-foot in the boiling.

N. B. Theſe cold difhes will keep a long while, and may be uſed hot, or cold fliced : the jelly will ſerve for fauce either way ; or a little cullis -fauce for hot, and jelly for cold. Favorites:

THE

110

PRACTICE OF

Favorites.

Different Olives.

CUT flices of fillet of veal round , of about the bigness of the palm of your hand ; make forced - meat with the remains of roafted chickens, fuet, parſley and fhallots chopt, pepper and falt, eggs, according to the quantity of forced- meat ; upon each flice lay a little ofthis forced-meat, fat livers fliced , and muſhrooms ; continue to a middling height, the laſt to be veal ; then roll them in coul , and tie them ; ' put them in a ſtew-pan with flices of ham , a faggot of parfley, fweet- herbs and fhallots , three cloves, two of garlick, pepper and falt, a little broth, flew flowly

and a glafs

of white-wine ;

when done, take off the coul ,

wipe the fat off, fkim and ſtrain the fauce ; add a little cullis , or butter rolled in flour, and a little ſcalded chopt parfley ; when ready to ferve, add a little lemon-juice.

Venetienne de Veau. Veal Steaks Venetian-fafhion .

CUT thick flices of veal , pretty large ; marinade an hour in a little oil ,

with chopt

pa fley, fhallots, mushrooms , fweet herbs, pepper and falt ; make as much of the marinade ftick to them as poffible ; roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil flowly, bafting with the remainder of the marinade ; ferve with

the

fqueeze

of

a lemon

or

Seville

orange. Venetienne

MODERN COOKERY.

III

Venetienne au Jambon . Ham Venetian -faſhion . CUT thin flices of veal ; and between every two put a flice of ham of the fame fize, firft dipt in eggs, chopt parfley, fhallots , muſhrooms, truffles, and a little pepper ; roll them in flices of lard , and ſtew flowly with a little broth and white-wine ; when done, take off the bacon , fkim and ſtrain the fauce, add a little butter and flour, and ferve with a reliſhing-fauce : inſtead of bacon, you may baſte them with eggs and bread- crumbs , and fry or bake them ; ſerve with a fauce as above, and garniſh with fried parſley. Venetienne á la Moelle. Slices of Veal Venetian faſhion .

CUT thin flices of veal ; make forced- meat with

marrow, bread - crumbs , chopt

parſley

and ſhallots , pepper and ſalt, a little grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two eggs ; put a little of this forced- meat between every twọ ſlices of veal , make as many of them as will make a diſh, bafte each round with whites of

"

eggs to make them firm , dip them in melted butter and ſweet-herbs chopt,

roll them in

bread-crumbs, broil flowly, ſerve with a ſharp fauce ; you may alſo bake them .

Nœud de Veau au Pontiff. Knuckle of Veal,

Pontiff-fauce .

CUT long pieces of larded bacon , ham , and pickled cucumbers ; lard the fillet through and

112

THE

PRACTICE

OF

and through ; tie it with pack-thread, and put it in a ſtew-pan of much its own bignefs , with a little butter and the juice of halfa lemon ; let it catch a little ; then

add broth,

a faggot

of fweet- herbs , a clove of garlick, two laurelleaves , and four cloves ; let it ſtew flowly till done ; reduce the fauce, to glaze it as fricandeau ; ferve with pontiff-fauce. N. B. Nœud de veau, filet, and rouelle, in French, mean much the fame thing ; the firft being a large knuckle, the fecond a large fillet, the third a fmall one, from the difference of cutting up the meat.

Naud de Veau á la St Claud. Knuckle of Veal St Claud faſhion . THIS is the fillet of veal ftuffed and roafted , as done in moft families ; only muſhrooms and truffles are recommended in the ftuffing, which are not commonly uſed, but are of advantage to it when they can be had : ſerve with melted butter and good gravy . Naud de Veauglaffe . Knuckle of Veal glazed. THIS is done the fame way as the noix au pontiff; only not larded, and ferved with cullis-fauce and the juice of a lemon. Rouelle de Veau á la daube. Fillet of Veal daubed . CUT long flices of larding bacon ; feafon them with pepper and falt, chopt parſley and fhallots ; lard the fillet through and through, that

MODERN COOKERY.

113

that the larding may cut with each ſlice ; put it in a ſtew-pan or a ſmall braze - kettle , with a little

broth,

half a pint of

white- wine,

a faggot of parfley and fweet- herbs , a few bay-leaves, a little coriander, and two cloves of garlick ; ftew flowly ; when done , ſtrain the fauce, let it cool to a jelly, and ferve cold with the veal whole or fliced : if you think the fauce is not ftrong enough, reduce it a little ; if not clear, fine it with whites of eggs as all other jellies. ་ Rouelle de Veau á la cendre. A la cendre means on hot afhes or a flow fire. THIS is done the fame way as the laft ; onferved hot with its own fauce, or what addition you think proper. Andouillettes au Celeri. Sham

Sauſages

with

Celery .

BOIL fix or eight heads of celery properly cut, prefs the water out, and lay fome good forced- meat round each of them ; tie them up in thin flices of veal in the form of ſauſages ; ſtew them in broth, with a little white- wine, a faggot of ſweet- herbs, and fpices : when ready, ferve with a little cullis and the juice of a lemon ; or ftrain their own fauce, and thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour ; add the ſqueeze of a lemon .

H

Timbale

114

THE PRACTICE OF Timbale á la Romaine.

The Timbal is a Mould much like a Turk'scap for Bleaumange, & c , CUT flices of veal very thin ; your mould or a ftew-pan,

put them in

upon flices of

lard ; baſte them with eggs to make them join together ; make a good forced- meat of veal or poultry, bread -crumbs foaked in

cream,

udder, raſped lard or butter, chopt parſley, fhallots, muſhrooms, pepper and falt, and two or three eggs ; lay fome of this forced- meat upon the veal, then a ragout of pigeons, fweet breads, palates , cockfcombs, & c. cover it over with the remainder of the forced- meat and flices of lard ; bake it in the oven ; when done, turn it out upon the diſh you intend for table , take off the lard , and ſerve with a fharp fauce. Iflard, meaning bacon , is difagreeable, rub your mould or pan well with good butter, which will anſwer the fame purpoſe.

Gateau de Mai.

Spring-cake.

BOIL a pint of c: eam with a good quantity of bread-crumbs, till it is quite thick ; then add pounded

chopt parfley,

fuet,

fhallots,

tarragon, creffes , chervil, pepper and falt, a little nutmeg, and fix yolks of eggs ; lay little parcels of this in a deep difh ; bafte with yolks of eggs and bread- crumbs ; bake it in the oven ; ferve

with

a

fharp fauce or ſtewed

greens .

Pain

MODERN COOKERY.

Pain á la Flamande.

115

A Flemish Loaf.

CUT a cabbage in four ; blanch and fqueeze the water from it ; tie and braze it with half a pound of pickled pork cut in pieces , half a pound of faufages, a faggot of parfley and ſweet herbs, four fhallots , one clove of garlick, three cloves, broth and a little white- wine : when done, take out the faggot and cloves ; add a little cullis ;

reduce

the fauce, and let it cool ; garniſh a ſtew-pan with paſte, and put the ragout in it; bake it in the oven about an hour ; when ready, with a cullis-fauce .

ſerve

veau. Crepinette de GoidiTHE goideveau is forced- meat with veal ; which, when done, you wrap in pieces of veal-cowl, and broil , fry, or bake them : they are beſt fried, being firſt baſted with eggs and bread-crumbs , for either of the above ways . If you cannot get veal-cowl, you may do them without ; ferve with fried parſley. Gateau de Veau en Crepine. PREPARE

Veal -cake in Cowl.

forced-meat as the

preceding ;

then cut as much lean veal in dices as you want, with a few fweet-almonds firft blanched, pepper and falt, and three or • four yolks of

1 eggs ; when well mixed , garniſh a ftew- pan (of the fame bignefs you intend your cake) with flices of lard upon the cowl ; add the forcedmeat, cover it with the cowl, and bake it in the H 2

oven ;

THE PRACTICE OF

116

oven ; when done, let it cool , and ferve cold upon a napkin. Veau á la Villageoife .

Veal Peafant-faſhion .

CUT large thin flices of veal ; ſeaſon them with pepper, falt, chopt parfley, and ſhallots ; cut alſo thin flices of ham, bafte them with eggs,

lay a flice of ham on each flice of

veal, and wrap it clofe ; ftew them with a glaſs of white-wine and a little broth ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, and ferve with any addition .

Bagatelles de Veau.

Trifles of Veal.

CUT large thin flices of veal ; feaſon them with ſpices, chopt parfley, fhallots and muſhrooms ; roll them up like faufages , with the ſeaſoning in the infide ; tie them up; ftew them flowly with a little cullis and a glaſs of whitewine ; when done , ftrain and ſkim the fauce, and ſerve it upon them ; add a little juice of lemon.

OF

MUTTON.

Les Queues de Mouton de differentes façons. Sheeps Rumps of different faſhions. SHEEPS rumps being boiled or brazed very. tender, make a very good fide-dish ; you may ſerve them with all different kinds of fauces , ftewed cabbages, greens , or other garden-ſtuffs.

Langues

MODERN COOKERY.

Langues de Mouton .

117

Mutton Tongues.

BOIL them in water, with fix cloves and fweet herbs ; when almoft done, peel them, finiſh them in a good braze, and ſerve with a reliſhing-fauce ; or cut them in two, dip them in butter, and ftrew them over with chopt parfley, ſhallots , pepper and falt ; broil or bake them ; ferve with fauce piquante, as you will find in the Sauce- articles .

Langues de Mouton á la Provençale. Sheeps Tongues. Provence-fafhion. FRY fliced onions in butter ; done,

add

a

little

flour,

chopt

when half parſley, a

clove of garlick, pepper and ſalt, a little cullis , and a glaſs of white-wine ; let it ſtew till the onions are done ; then

add as

many ſplit

tongues (being ready boiled) as you think proper ; ſtew them a quarter of an hour in the fauce; ferve all together ; garniſh the diſh with fried bread.

Langues de Mouton glacées. Sheeps Tongues as Fricandeau . BOIL them to three parts ;

peel and lard

them ; then ſtew them in good gravy, with a faggot of fweet-herbs ,

three cloves,

flice of ham ; when done,

and a

reduce the fauce

to a glaze, and glaze them as a fricandeau ; ſerve what fauce you think proper.

H 3

Langues

E

THE PRACTIC

118

OF

Langues de Mouton á la Royale. Sheeps Tongues Royal-faſhion . BOIL as the former ; then lard them quite through ; marinade them an hour in a little pepper and falt, chopt parfley, fhallots, and muſhrooms ; put a few flices of lard under and over ; add a little gravy, a glass of whitewine, with all the feafonings ; when

done,

take out the flices of lard ; fkim the fauce ; add a little cullis or butter rolled in flour, the juice of half a lemon , and ferve it upon the tongues. Langues de Mouton aux Oignons en Crepine. Sheeps Tongues with Onions in Cowl .

FRY fliced onions in butter : when done, add three anchovies , three fhallots , and a little parfley, all finely chopt, pepper and ſalt, the yolks of two raw eggs ; put ready- boiled tongues in a piece of cowl, bafte with eggs and bread-crumbs , bake of a fine colour, and ſerve with a ſharp fauce, 1 Langues de Mouton eu Papillottes. Sheeps Tongues in Paper-cafes , CUT brazed or boiled tongues in two ; put round each piece a little forced-meat, made of poultry, fweet-herbs , a little fuet or marrow, pepper and falt; roll them up in paper, firft rubbed with butter ; either broil or bake them ; ferve dry with fried parfley round, or with a ſharp fauce , Langues

MODERN COOKERY.

119

、 Langues de Mouton au Parmefan. Sheeps Tongues with Parmefan Cheeſe.

PUT a little cullis and butter in the diſh you intend for table ; upon this fome raſped cheeſe : ſplit brazed tongues in two, and lay them upon the above ; then a little more cullis and cheeſe : bake it in the oven till of a good colour, and ferve with a cullis fauce ; add the fqueeze of a lemon. Langues de Mouton en Surprife. Sheeps Tongues maſked. BOIL fheeps tongues till done ; let them cool ; then wrap them up in forced-meat, made of veal or poultry ;

bafte them with

eggs and bread-crumbs ; bake them of a good colour, and ferve with what fauce you pleaſe. You may alſo braze them with a little cullis, broth, and a glaſs of white-wine ; when done,

fkim

and ftrain the fauce ;

add the

juice of half a lemon, and ferve upon the tongues .

This is called á la braife.

Langues de Mouton á la Dauphin. Sheeps Tongues Dauphin-faſhion . TAKE as many tongues as you want, being brazed very tender ; cut them in thin flices ; make forced- meat of truffles or muſhrooms, fat livers, beef- marrow, pepper and falt, chopt parſley, ſhallots , and the yolks of eggs ; add pieces of veal cut in dices ; intermix this forced-meat with your fliced H4 tongues ;

置

120

THE PRACTICE OF

tongues ; roll them up like faufages ; fry, bake, or broil them of a fine colour ; ſerve either dry with fauce.

fried

parfley,

or

with

a

fharp

Langues de Mouton á la Bourgeoife. Sheeps Tongues plain family-faſhion . SPLIT ready-boiled tongues in two ; mamelted butter, pepper and ſalt,

rinade in

chopt parfley, and fhallots ; roll them in breadcrumbs , and broil them flowly ; ferve with a fauce made of a fpoonful of vinegar, a bit of butter rolled in flour and broth, grated nutmeg, and chopt fhallots ; reduce the fauce, and ſerve it under the tongues .

Langues de Mouton en Tourte. Sheeps-tongues Pie. MAKE a good puff- paſte, and lay in the bottom a little good forced- meat, made of veal or poultry,

fuet or rafped lard, chopt

parfley, ſhallots, muſhrooms, pepper and falt, a few bread-crumbs foaked in cream, and the yolks of three or four eggs ; upon this lay the tongues cut in two , over them the reft of the

1

forced-meat, then two flices of ham and thin flices of lard ; cover and bake it ; when done, take out the ham and lard , ſkim off the fat very clean, and add to it a good cullis-fauce, You may do it without the flices of lard.

Canelons

MODERN COOKERY.

121

Canelons de Langues de Mouton. Sheeps Tongues fried in Pafte. CUT the tongues in four lengthwife, they being first brazed

or

boiled

very tender;

put round each piece of tongue a little good forced-meat, then roll them up in thin pafte, and fry or bake them of a good colour ; ſerve dry. N. B. Canelon is a diminutive of canon, viz . a large gun ; this , and all other directions under this denomination , are prepared after the fame manner.

Pieds de Mouton de differentes façons. Sheeps Trotters of different faſhions . WHEN well fcalded , boil them in water until you can take out the great bone ; then ſplit and clean them properly ; boil them again till they are very tender ; and dreſs them in what manner you pleaſe, either as a fricaffee, or with a cullis-fauce, & c . & c. taking care to make the fauce reliſhing . Pieds de Mouton á la Belle- veu. Sheeps

Trotters Belle-veu Sauce .

( See the

Sauce-articles .) TROTTERS being firft brazed , take the leg-bone out, and in the room of it ftick a bit of fried bread cut proportionable ; ſerve with the above fauce.

Pieds

122

THE PRACTICE OF "Pieds de Mouton en Canelons. Sheeps Trotters fried in Pafte.

THE trotters being firſt brazed or ſtewed, bone them without cutting them ; roll them in good forced- meat ; then dip them in thick batter made of flour, white-wine , one egg, and a little oil, pepper and ſalt ; fry them of a good colour, and garniſh with fried parſley. Pieds de Mouton a la St Menehoult. Sheeps Trotters fried or broiled .

WHEN boiled enough to take the great bone

out, put inftead of it good forcedmeat ; then braze them in a St Menehoult

made of a little milk, a little flour and butter, and ſweet-herbs chopt ; then roll them in bread crumbs, fry or broil them, and ferve with

a reliſhing fauce ; when brazed white

and tender, you may ferve with fauce á la reine, or any other you pleaſe, as the fauce gives the name.

Pieds de Mouton á l'Afpic. Sheeps Trotters Afpic. ASPIC is a fharp fauce or jelly, wherein is commonly uſed elder or tarragon vinegar , chopt parfley, ſhallots, tarragon-leaves, pepper and falt, oil , muftard, lemon, any forts of cold meat : poultries or game may be ferved in afpic, either hot or cold .

Carré

MODERN COOKERY.

123

Carré de Mouton au Reverend. Neck of Mutton larded with Ham and Anchovies.

LARD the fillet of a neck of mutton quite through with ham and anchovies , firſt rolled in chopt parſley, ſhallots , fweet- herbs , pepper and falt ; then put it to braze or ſtew in a little broth, with a glaſs of white-wine ; when done, fift and fkim the fauce ; add a little cullis to give it a proper confiftence ; add the juice of half a lemon, and ferve it upon the neck of mutton . Carré de Mouton en Fricandeau . Fricandeau of a Neck of Mutton.

THIS is done in the fame manner as the neck of veal ; &c.

larded ,

brazed ,

and glazed ,

As I have fet down an ample deſcription of the different ways of dreffing a neck of veal, I fhall avoid repeating any thing further upon necks of mutton, as they may be done the fame way in every refpect, allowing for the difference of meat. Carré de Mouton au Jambon. Neck of Mutton with Ham. THIS is brazed ; and the flices of ham which ſerve in the braze are cut in dices , and mixed with the fauce after being well ſkimmed and fifted, and ferve with the neck. Obſerve, that your

124

THE PRACTICE OF

your braze is appropriated in the ſeaſoning for fauces.

Cotelettes de Mouton au Fenouil. Mutton Cutlets with Fennel .

THIS is done flowly in broth, pepper and falt, with all forts of fweet-herbs chopt, adding fennel to it. Cotelettes de Mouton á la Cendre. Mutton Cutlets ftewed flowly on hot afhes. MAKE the cutlets pretty thick ; lard them with ham and bacon ; give them a few turns over the fire, with a little butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, and muſhrooms ; then put them in a ſtew-pan, with flices of veal at bottom , ſeaſoned with ſweet-herbs, pepper, and a little falt and nutmeg ; cover them over with flices of lard ; ftop the pan very clofe ; let it fimmer a long while ;

when

about half done,

add a glaſs of white-wine and a little cullis ; when done, ſkim and ſift the fauce, and ſerve upon the cutlets.

Cotelettes de Mouton á la Heriffon. Mutton Cutlets like a Hedge-hog. BRAZE the cutlets in a well-feaſoned braze ; when they are about half- done , put different forts of roots in, being cut long as for larding ; when done, take all out , and make ſmall holes in the cutlets to lard them with the roots , which must appear pretty long on each fide ; ferve

with

a cullis fauce, and

ſweet-herbs

chopt ;

MODERN COOKERY.

125.

chopt ; when done , add the juice of half a lemon. Cotelettes de Mouton á l'Amoureux . Mutton Cutlets Lovers-faſhion . 1 LARD the cutlets ; then give them a few turns in a little butter, chopt parſley, and a little winter-favory ; then put them in a ſtewpan, with fmall bits of ham, fliced onions , carrots, and parſnips , which you firſt give a fry in oil or butter ; add a glass of whitewine and a little cullis ;

when

done,

ſkim

the fauce, and ferve with all the roots and ham .

Cotelettes de, Mouton en Surtout. Mutton Cutlets maſked , (frock) diſguiſed. CUT cutlets in the common way, and fimmer them with broth to about three parts , with a faggot of fweet-herbs ; reduce the fauce till no more remains than what will bathe the cutlets ; garnish them with forcedmeat round,

made of fillet of veal,

fuet,

chopt parſley, ſhallots , pepper and ſalt, and bread- crumbs foaked in cream , all being well pounded ; add three yolks of eggs ; then bafte your cutlets with eggs

and bread- crumbs ;

bake in the oven till of a good colour ; ferve with conſomme fauce, gravy, &c. &c. Cotelettes de Mouton á la Chartreufe. Mutton Cutlets called after the above, Friarfaſhion . CUT as many cutlets as you want ; braze them

126

THE PRACTICE OF

them with flices of lard, ham, broth, a faggot of fweet-herbs, cloves, a laurel-leaf,

a clove of garlick, two two fliced carrots and

turnips , pepper and falt ; when done, cut the roots in what form you pleaſe ; then make a porridge with ſpinage , which you ſcald , and fimmer a little in butter ; then pound and fift it ; mix the white of an egg with it ; take a difh the bigness of that you intend to fend to table, garnish the bottom with the fame flices of lard, then the cutlets intermixed with the roots and ſpinage- porridge,

and ſo keep it

warm ; when ready to ſerve, turn it over gently upon the diſh, take off the bacon , and ferve with a good confomme fauce.

Cotelettes de Mouton frites . Mutton Cutlets fried . STEW your cutlets in broth, with a faggot of fweet -herbs ; when done , fift the broth , and reduce it to a glaze ; then bathe the cutlets with it on both fides ; when cold , baſte them with yolks of eggs and bread-crumbs ,

fry

in hogs lard of a good colour, and garniſh with fried parſley if you would have them with à la farcie, (viz. forced-meat) , make it the fame as the former, and garnish the cutlets with it before frying.

Cotelettes de Mouton à la Dauphin. Mutton Cutlets Dauphin-faſhion. CUT the cutlets pretty thick, and lard them with half ham and half bacon ; ftewthem with a

MODERN COOKERY.

127

a little broth, fweet-herbs, and flices of veal ; when done, fift the fauce, and ferve upon the cutlets.

Brefolles á la Poële, viz. Frying- pan. TAKE a leg of mutton long kept ; cut the lean free from fat, and cut the pieces about the bigness of half an egg ; flatten them with the cleaver ; then fimmer them a little in butter, chopt parfley, ſhallots , muſhrooms , pepper and falt ; then put them in a ſtew- pan, with a few flices of veal, a flice of ham, and all their ſeaſoning ; cover them with flices of lard , and fimmer about an hour ; then add a glaſs of white-wine, a little broth and cullis ; when done, take out the collops to drain, fkim and fift the fauce, add the ſqueeze of a lemon , and ſerve with your collops . N. B. You may do them without the ſlices of lard .

Brefolles de Mouton á la Perigord. Mutton Collops, Perigord -faſhion.

THIS is done much as the former : only cut very thin, and marinaded fome time in oil, ſweet herbs, pepper and falt ; then brazed in their ſeaſoning, adding a glaſs of white- wine and chopt truffles , fauce.

or ferved with a cullis

Brefolles de Mouton aux Concombres. Mutton Collops with ftewed Cucumbers. THIS is prepared as the former, cut very thin,

THE PRACTICE OF

128

thin, brazed tender, mixt with ftewed cucumbers ,

and marinaded fome time in falt and

vinegar before ftewing.

It is needleſs to uſe

freſh meat for all thofe collops , as part of a roafted neck or leg will answer the fame, and will be tenderer, if care is taken not to let it boil, but warm flowly.

Mouton á la Bechamel aux Oignons . Mutton Bechamel Sauce with Onions. SLICE three or four

onions ;

fry them

flowly in butter, not to brown them ; add a little flour and fome broth ; when almoſt done, add a little cream , pepper and falt ; let it boil to a confiftence ; then put fillets

of roafted

mutton in it, to warm without boiling ; you may add fcalded chopt parfley ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon .

Filets de Mouton marines. Fillets of Mutton marinaded .

LARD the fillets of one,

two, or more

necks of muttön , and marinade them about two hours in a little vinegar, water, pepper and falt, with fliced onions, fhallots , thyme, laurel, and three cloves ; then drain and roaſt them ; ferve with a relishing fauce . Filets de Mouton Canelon. Fillets of Mutton Canelon-faſhion .

CUT the fillet of a neck of mutton in two ; make a hole in the middle of each with a large larding

pin ;

ftuff them with rafped

lard , mixed

1

MODERN COOKERY.

129

mixt with chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms , pepper and falt ; marinade in a little oil, and roaft them ; ferve with what fauce you pleaſe.

Fillets de Mouton à la Coquette. Fillets of Mutton Coquette- fafhion. CUT the fillet of a neck of mutton in pieces the bignefs of a finger ; lard them through and through with ham and bacon ; ſtew them in broth, with a faggot of fweet herbs ; • when done, fift the fauce, reduce it to a glaze, and bathe the fillets with it ; when cold, put round each ſome good forced-meat made of poultry ; then wrap each up in a flice of lard ; bathe with eggs and bread-crumbs ; bake them of a good colour ; ferve with what fauce you pleaſe. Filets de Mouton glaſſes aux Concombres . Fillets of Mutton glazed fauce.

with

Cucumber-

THIS is done the fame as veal fricandeau, larded, brazed, and glazed ; ferve upon ftewed cucumbers, or with any kind of ftewed greens. Fricandeau de Mouton.

Fricandeau of Mutton.

THE only difference of this from the former, is its being done with the leg. Cotelettes de Mouton aux Oignons. Mutton Cutlets with Onions. CUT a leg of mutton in large fteaks , pretI ty

130

THE

PRACTICE OF

ty thick, alſo ſeveral onions ſliced ; garniſh a ftew-pan with flices of lard ; upon this lay the onions , then the meat with pepper and falt, and continue the fame till you have done ; cover the pan very clofe, and let it ftew flowly as you would do à la mode beef ; when done, fkim the fauce, then add a little cullis and the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Poitrine de Mouton de plufieurs façons. Breaft of Mutton different faſhions. BREAST of mutton cut in pieces and brazed may be uſed with all forts of roots or greens as hodge- podge ; or boiled whole, then broiled or baked ; being firſt bathed with eggs and bread-crumbs, mixt with chopt parfley, fhallots, fweet- herbs , pepper and falt ; ferve with a fharp fauce.

Epaul de Mouton à l'Eau. Shoulder of Mutton (water). PUT a fhoulder of mutton in a ſtew-pan, with broth, a faggot of fweet herbs , two laurel-leaves, and three cloves ; let it ftew flowly till done ; then ſkim and fift the fauce ; reduce it to a glaze, and glaze the ſhoulder ; add a little broth in the fame pan to gather the remainder of the glaze, and ferve with the meat .

Epaule de Mouton á la Parme. Shoulder of Mutton Parma-faſhion . BRAZE a fhoulder of mutton,

and boil fome

MODERN COOKERY. 131 fome rice in good fat broth ; when very tender, lay fome of the rice in the bottom of the diſh , then the ſhoulder of mutton upon it ; mix fome dried currants with the remaining rice, and cover the fhoulder over with it, then raſped Parmeſan cheeſe ; put it half an hour in the oven to take colour, and ferve with a good clear fauce. Epaul de Mouton au four. Shoulder of Mutton baked in the oven .

LARD a fhoulder of mutton ; ſeaſon with pepper, falt, and ſweet- herbs ; put it in a pan of its bigness , with two ſliced onions, three cloves , thyme, laurel , a little ſweet-bafil , and a little water or broth ;

when done in the

' oven, fift the fauce, and ferve with the fhoulder. Epaul de Mouton à la Sainte Menehoult. Shoulder of Mutton broiled . TAKE a fhoulder of mutton ; lard it or not as you pleaſe ; braze it tender, with a good feafoning ; when done, take it out, ftrew it over with bread- crumbs

and fweet-herbs

chopt,

bafting while it broils with a little of the braze fauce ; ferve with cullis and verjuice or vinegar.

Sauciffons d'Epaule de Mouton. Saufages, or collared Shoulder of Mutton . TAKE up the ſkin,

and bone the meat ;

which cut ſmall with pickled pork, ham , and a freſh tongue ; mix all together ; ſeaſon with fine · I 2

132

THE

PRACTICE

OF

fine fpices ; then roll it in the ſkin , and truſs it into a bullock's gut, or tie it with a roller ; boil it half an hour in three pints of water, with half an ounce of faltpetre, half an handful of falt, three cloves , two cloves of garlick, fix fhallots, a little thyme, two laurel - leaves, a ſprig of fennel,

and half a handful of juniper-

berries ; fift it, and add a glaſs of brandy ; let the meat foak in this two days ; boil it in this marinade a quarter of an hour morning and evening ; then boil it in a pan much of its bignefs , in broth and white-wine , with roots and onions ; when done, let it cool in the fame pan ; ferve cold upon a napkin , or fliced . Epaule de Mouton à la Bonne Femme. Shoulder of Mutton the Good Houſewife faſhion . ROAST a fhoulder of mutton ; then take out the blade-bone and meat without cutting the fkin ; mince the meat ; put it in aftew-pan with a little broth or cullis, chopt fhallots, parfley, muſhrooms, pepper and falt ; bafte the fkin with eggs and bread- crumbs ; broil it, or colour it in the oven ; ferve upon the hash ; alfo the blade-bone broiled.

Epaule de Mouton au Sang. Shoulder of Mutton with Blood.

TAKE a tender fhoulder of mutton ; make an incifion between the fleſh and the fkin , into which you ftuff pork-blood with

flee,

prepared

133

MODERN COOKERY. as for black- puddings ,

prepared

adding

a

little chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper and falt ; few it up and roaft it, covered over with flices of lard wrapt in, paper, or with buttered paper alone ; ferve with fauce au porc frais , which you will find in the Sauce-articles . Selle de Mouton á la Saint Menehoult. Saddle or Loin of Mutton broiled . IT is done the fame as the fhoulder, and may be equally ufed as the neck for fteaks or harricot.

Selle de Mouton en Canapé. Saddle of Mutton matted. TAKE up the ſkin , ſcarify the meat, and ftick in it fliced fat livers, truffles , freſh pork, fliced onions, and anchovies ;

4

cover this all

over with a good forced -meat , made of rafped lard,

fuet

or

marrow,

fweet- herbs

chopt,

1

mushrooms, pepper and ſalt, and three yolks of eggs, all pounded together ; cover it over with the ſkin well faftened ; braze it (with the

f

fkin undermoft) with broth, and a faggot of fweet-herbs ; when done, reduce the fauce to a caramel,

viz . glaze ;

glaze all the

upper

fide, and ferve with Efpagnole or any other you pleaſe.

1 Rôt de Bif de Mouton . WHAT the French call Rot de Bifde Mouton, is the hind-quarters cut off together at the firſt rib, the ends of the legs truffed in each I3

134

THE

PRACTICE

OF

each other ; it is a large difh, which may be plain roafted, larded , or brazed , and ferved with any fauce, ftewed greens or roots , & c. Gigot de Mouton á la Garone. Leg of Mutton with Garlick.

THIS is done with ftuffing, wherein is put a good deal of garlick, and ferve with what fauce you pleaſe. Some call it Gigot á l'Ail. Gigot de Mouton au Vin , Leg of Mutton with Wine-fauce . CUT fome of the meat off to make a forcedmeat, and ftuff it into it again ; braze as all other pieces, adding a little white-wine to the fauce. Gigot de Mouton á la Farcie. Leg of Mutton with Forced - meat. THIS is done much the fame as the former; only boned all to the end , the meat made into forced -meat, tied up in the fkin , and roaſted or brazed ; ferve with any fauce .

Grenadins de Mouton. Small Fricandeaus of Mutton. THEY are larded , brazed , and glazed , the fame as the veal ; and ferved with ftewed greens of any fort, or with fauce.

Gigot de Mouton á la mode. Leg of Mutton á la mode , LARD a leg of mutton through and through, with large pieces of bacon properly cut, and rolled

MODERN COOKERY.

135

rolled in ſweet herbs chopt and fine fpices ; braze it in a pan much of the fame bignefs , with flices of lard , onions and roots ; ftop the pan very cloſe to prevent the fteam getting out ; ftew it very flowly till done ; then add a little white-wine ; fift the fauce , and ſerve it with the mutton . Gigot de Mouton á la Houlan. Leg of Mutton Houlan-faſhion .

IT it is done as the former, only adding brandy inſtead of wine. Gigot de Mouton á la Gascogne . Leg of Mutton Gaſcoon -faſhion .

IT is larded with fcalded garlick and anchovies ; then roafted . Gigot de Mouton á l'Italienne. Leg of Mutton Italian - faſhion . IT is larded and brazed , and ferved with Italian fauce, as you will find in the Saucearticles.

Gigot de Mouton á l'Eſpagnole. Leg of Mutton Spaniſh-faſhion .

BONE it all to the end ; then lard it through and through with large pieces, feaſoned with falt and ſpices ; put it in a braze-pan, with a dozen of onions , and a pint of Spaniſh-wine ; cover it cloſe, and put it in the oven ; when half done, turn it, and add fix large fhort faufages ; finiſh baking ; difh it, 14

and garniſh with

1

THE PRACTICE OF

136

with the onions and faufages ; fkim and fift the fauce, fqueeze two China-oranges in it, and ferve it with the mutton .

Gigot de Mouton en Venaiſon. Leg of Mutton like Venifon . LARD it, and make a marinade with half a pint of vinegar , a pint of red- wine ,

pep-

per and falt, thyme, laurel , cloves , nutmeg, pounded coriander, with a few flices of peeled lemon, and a few flices of onions ; warm all together ; foak the mutton twelve hours ; then roaſt it, and ferve with a poivrade fauce in a fauce-boat.

Gigot de Mouton á la Modene. Leg of Mutton Modena-faſhion . BONE

a leg

of mutton all to

the

end,

which you leave very fhort ; boil it to three parts in water or broth ; then take

it out,

and cut the upper part croffways, into which you ftuff butter and bread - crumbs, ſeaſoned with pepper,

falt, and fweet herbs

chopt ;

then put it in a ſtew- pan , with a little of the broth and a little white-wine ; finish it, and add the juice of a Seville orange to the ſauce . Gigot de Mouton au Militaire . Leg of Mutton Military-faſhion . THIS is in the manner of á la mode beef, cut in pieces, and larded with large pieces , feafoned with proper fpices, to keep and carry about, as military gentlemen are often forced to

MODERN COOKERY .

137

to do ; which I prefume is the reaſon of its being called as above.

Gigot de Mouton aux Legumes. Leg of Mutton with Greens or Roots.

It is plain boiled, and ſerved with greens or roots , either ſtewed or boiled with the meat. Gigot de Mouton au Bacha. Leg of Mutton Bacha-faſhion .

TAKE up the ſkin to the end , and lard the meat all over with fcalded celery, tarragon , a few anchovies , pickled cucumbers , ham and bacon, feaſoned with a few fpices ; faften the fkin over this, marinade it in a little oil, paper and roaft it, and ſerve with fauce piYou will find how to make it in the quante. Sauce-articles .

B. You may do it without N. B. N.

marinading. Gigot de Mouton en Salade. Leg of Mutton with Salad . IT is larded, and brazed ; keep it till cool ; then garnish it over with all forts of herbs fit for falad according to fancy, and dreffed like falad , in the manner of falmongundy.

OF HOGS

AND

PIGS.

HOGS meat ought to be hard and of a blooming colour, without any bad ſmell occafioned by heat ; that which is foft and palered is

not good ;

it is eaſy to know it by fmall

138

THE

E

PRACTIC

OF

fmall white ſpots which appear in the flesh. Pigs of fix or eight months are good to make pickled pork, and to roaft ; thofe of a-year or fifteen months old are better to make bacon . Sucking pigs , about three weeks old, are fitteft for ufe. All that is uſed for faufages and puddings ought to be uſed directly, the guts particularly , as by keeping they are apt to heat and to burft. Cochon de Lait rote.

Suckling Pig roafted .

STICK the pig in the throat as deep as the heart, that it may bleed well and die fooner, as it makes it eaſier to fcald ; when the water is warm , dip the pig in it ;

take it out again

directly and rub it with a little rofin , then put it in warm -water ; when you find the briftles coming off by rubbing, take it out and clean it as fast as poffible ; when it is well fcalded, wash it clean , and cut it open while warm ; take all out except the kidneys ; trufs it with three ſkewers, one in the hind legs , one in the fore, and one in the middle ; being wiped very dry, put in the belly a faggot of parſley,

ſhallots ,

thyme, two laurel- leaves ,

a little pepper and falt ; put a ſkewer in the belly, or few it up ; fpit it, and lay it to the fire ; when it begins to warm, cut the ſkin a little near the neck, (fome cut it likewiſe near the rump) , to hinder

it from

breaking in the

roafting ; rub it over with oil pretty often , which will make the fkin very crifp ;

take out

MODERN COOKERY .

139

out the faggot, when you difh it ; you may either ſplit it in two, or ferve it whole. N. B. Inſtead of the above faggot, you may

put in a piece of butter and fome chopt fage ; when ready to ferve, you may mix the fage with melted butter,

gravy , and a little vine-

gar. Cochon de Lait en Galantine .

Collared Pig.

WHEN the pig is fcalded as the former, cut off the head and feet, and bone it without cutting the fkin ; cut fome of the fleth to chop with beef, fuet, pepper and falt, four or five yolks of eggs , chopt parſley , muſhrooms,

ham and bacon,

truffles,

piftachio-

nuts , a few ſweet- almonds and hard yolks of eggs , bread- crumbs foaked in cream ; lay à down of this forced- meat upon the pig, then thin flices of ham and flices of the pig's flesh, and ſo on till all is uſed ; roll it up in the ſkin , and tie it very tight in a cloth or roller, with or without flices of lard round it ; boil it in broth, with a pint of white- wine, a faggot of fweet herbs,

three cloves,

and three bay-

leaves ; boil it about an hour and a half on a flow fire ; when done, let it cool in the braze, ſerve cold, whole or fliced . N. B. In this, as in moft other receipts , fome of the above articles are hard to be got at all times, and fometimes difliked by the eaters ; to obviate which, it is left to the judgment of the cook to add or diminiſh as he or ſhe ſhall fee neceſſary .

Cuchon

THE

140

PRACTICE

OF

Cochon de Lait au Moine blanc. Pig white Monks -faſhion . BONE the pig throughly, except the head and feet ; take care not to cut the fkin ; make a forced- meat with fillet of veal, beef- fuet, chopt

parſley,

and falt,

fhallots, muſhrooms , pepper crumbs of bread foaked in cream ,

and the yolks of fix raw eggs ; cut dices of ham and bacon , to mix with the forced-meat ; ſtuff the pig with this as if it was whole ; tie it well in a napkin, and cover or not the back with thin flices of bacon ; boil it in broth and a pint of white-wine , with a faggot of parsley, fhallots , a clove of garlick, fliced onions, carrots and other roots , whole pepper and falt : when done, if to be ferved hot, wipe it clean, and ſerve with what fauce you pleaſe ; if for cold , let it cool in the braze, then take off the napkin, ſcrape the fat gently off, and ferve upon a napkin ; garnish with green parſley.

Cochon de Lait en Felly. Pig in Jelly. TRUSS a pig as for roafting, much of its ' length, with a ſmall knuckle of veal , three or four calve's-feet according to their bigness , a little ham , a large faggot of parſley, ſhallots, a fprig of thyme, two bay-leaves , two cloves of garlick, fix cloves, a bit of nutmeg, whole pepper, and a little falt ; cover it over or not with

141

MODERN COOKERY.

with flices of bacon ; put to it a bottle of white-wine,

and twice as much broth ;

let

it ſtew about an hour flowly, as it will be apt to crack ; when done, take the pig out gently, wipe it clean , in another pan then

clean

the

and put all the reſt

to fimmer for ſome time ; pan the pig was in,

and

garniſh the bottom with green parſley, boiled

craw-fish,

or prawns, in a pretty form ;

then lay the pig upon this, the back undermoft ; then fift and fkim the broth very well , and add the juice of four lemons , the whites of eight eggs beat up with the fhells, and boil it till it is quite clear ; ftrain it through a jellybag, and pour it upon the pig ; it should be quite covered with the jelly ; let it cool : when ready to uſe, dip the pan in warm water, and turn it over upon a napkin. Roulades de Cochon de Lait. Large Olives of Pig.

TAKE the head and feet off ; cut the pig in

quarters , and bone them ; put upon each a forced- meat made of rafped lard or butter, and bread-crumbs, yolks of eggs, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms, pepper and falt ; roll them round ; tie them with pack-thread, and braze them in broth and a little white-wine ; when done, ſkim and fift the fauce ; add a little cullis, or a little butter rolled in flour to thicken it ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon. Cochon

1

142

THE

PRACTICE

OF

Cochon de Lait à la Bechamel. Pig, Bechamel Sauce. TAKE the remainder of a roafted pig cut in fmall pieces , and dreſs it with bechamel-fauce , as you will find in the Sauce - articles : you may alfo dreſs it as a blanqueet, made with a little butter, chopt muſhrooms , a faggot of parſley , thyme, fhallots, two cloves, and a laurelleaf; fimmer it for fome time, but not to catch ; then add a little flour, fome broth, pepper and falt ; take out the faggot ; put in the fillets to warm , without boiling ; make a liafon with the yolks of two eggs and a little cream ; when ready to ferve, add the liaſon and the fqueeze of a lemon .

Paupiettes de Cochon de Lait. Olives of Pigs . WHEN boned as for thofe called roulades, take moſt of the flesh, which you chop with beef-fuet,

bread-crumbs

chopt parfley,

fhallots ,

foaked

in

cream ,

mushrooms , pepper

and falt, and the yolks of fix eggs ;

pound

all together ; add a glaſs of brandy : cut the fkin in ſmall pieces ; put fome of this forcedmeat on each piece of fkin ; roll them up, tie them , and braze them in broth with a little white-wine and two or three flices of peeled C

lemon ; fkim and fift the fauce ; thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, or a little cullis ,

or ferve with what other fauce you

pleaſe. Cochon

MODERN COOKERY,

143

Cochon de Lait en Timbale.

Pig in a Mould named as above. CUT off the head and feet ; bone the reſt ; cut off all the meat without cutting the fkin ; chop the meat with truffles , ham , and bacon ; marinade this in oil or butter, pepper and falt, chopt parfley and fhallots ; put the ſkin in a fmall ftew-pan , and put the farcie in with all the feaſoning ; faſten the ſkin round ; cover it over with flices of lard ; ftew it in broth , with a pint of white-wine, onions and roots , a faggot of parsley, fhallots , a clove

of garlick,

four cloves, a ſprig of thyme, and one laurelleaf ; when done, ferve with Sauce Espagnole, as you will find in the Sauce-articles. If you would have it for

a cold diſh,

ſeaſon it a

little higher ; let it cool in the braze ; ferve it on a

napkin, and garnish with green par-

lley.

Hure de Cochon au Sanglier. Hog's -head Wild-boar faſhion . CUT the head cloſe to the ſhoulder ; bone the neck part ; part the flesh from the noſe as far as the eyes ; cut off the bone ; lard the bacon, feafoned with pepper,

infide with

falt, and ſpices ; rub it all over with falt, and half an ounce of pounded faltpetre ; put it in a pickle-pan, with half a handful of juniperberries, fweet herbs, fix laurel - leaves , bafil , eight cloves , whole pepper, and half a handful of coriander feed ; let it lie for about eight days ,

144

THE PRACTICE

OF

days, rubbing it every day ; then take it out , and wipe it dry ; tie it well ; boil it with three pints of red-wine, and as much water as will properly boil it, with onions , carrots , a large faggot of fweet-herbs , two cloves of garlick , four cloves, and two pounds of hogs - lard ; when near done, taſte the braze, and add falt if neceffary ; when it gives under the finger, it is done ; let it cool in the braze ; ferve cold upon a napkin : you may garnish with bayleaves, or parfley, according to fancy. N. B. You may dreſs it without the hogslard as directed . Ballon de Cochon. Made round in form of a Foot-ball. TAKE a hog's head, and cut it as the former ; bone it thoroughly ; cut moſt of the meat off the fkin ; chop the meat with parfley, fhallots, pepper and falt ; divide the lean from the fat ; chop alfo a tongue, and fome ham , with truffles ; mix theſe laſt together ; then lay the ſkin in a round ftew- pan , then lay a bed of the lean meat, then a bed of the fat, then the tongue and ham , and fo continue until it is full ; if the head don't furniſh fat enough, you muft ufe freſh bacon ; take care to put a little ſeaſoning upon every bed you lay ; faften it well, and tie it up in a cloth ; ftew it with a bottle of white-wine and broth , a large faggot of ſweet herbs , roots and ſpices ; fimmer it about eight hours ; let it cool in its own braze ; then take it out and give it what

MODERN COOKERY.

145

what form you pleafe ; lay a weight upon it, to ſqueeze the fat from it ; ferve whole or liced .

Gochon petit falé. Pickled-pork, or Pork a little falted. THE beft for pickling, or common falting, are thoſe about feven or eight months old : cut the pieces of what bigneſs you pleaſe ; for fifteen pound of meat , uſe a pound of pounded falt ; rub it well, and lay the pieces cloſe together ; it is fit for ufe in about a week. It is very good to boil with all forts of porridges, and is the kind I recommended in theſe articles ; but for this purpoſe it ſhould be pretty freſh, as it will give a better taſte. Echine de Cochon à la poivrade. Chine of Pork, Poivrade-fauce . SALT it about three days ; then roaſt it, and ſerve with fauce- poivrade, as you will find in the Sauce-articles : you may alſo ſend Robertſauce in a fauce-boat ; which you will find as above. Queues de Cochons de plufieurs façons . Hogs Tails of different faſhions . STEW the tails very tender in broth, with a clove of garlick, whole pepper, falt, a little thyme, and two laurel-leaves ; when done, ſerve with what fauce you pleafe ; or broiled with crumbs of bread, with remoulade in a fauce-boat, alſo with ſtewed cabbages , &c. Pieds K

THE

146

PRACTICE

OF

Pieds des Cochons á la St Menehoult.

Hogs Feet brazed and broiled . CLEAN the feet very well , and cut them in two ; put thin flices of lard between each two halves ; tie them two and two together ; then fimmer

them

about fix

hours,

with two

glaffes of white-wine, one of brandy, a little hogs lard, fpices , a faggot of parsley

and

fweet herbs , three fhallots, and one clove of garlick ;

when done,

let them cool in the

braze ; untie them, bafte with their own fat, and ſtraw them over with bread- crumbs ; broil of a fine colour ; ferve with or without fauce. N. B. They may alſo be fried, baked , ragout fricaffeed, & c. & c .

Oreilles des Cochons de plufieurs façons. Hogs Ears of different faſhions. RUB them with falt for three or four days, a few laurel-leaves, thyme, bafil, and fix or eight cloves pounded ;

then boil them in

water alone, or with green or dried peaſe ; make a purée of the peaſe to ſerve upon the ears, or ferve them with fauce-Robert : alfo cut in ſmall fillets ( called en menus droits) , either for brown ragout,

or white fricaffee :

you

may likewife broil or fry them. Ufage de Sang de Cochon et autres. The uſe of Hog's Blood and others . HoG's blood is preferable to that of calves and

MODERN COOKERY, $47 and lambs , although all ferve for the fame ufe; it is uſed by itſelf, and for black puddings , as will be explained hereafter.

Boudins de Cochon.

Hog's Puddings .

To one pint of blood add a pound and a half of lard , a pint of cream , falt and fpices ; boil fix or eight large onions in fat broth, with a faggot of parfley, ſweet herbs, ſhallots , two laurel-leaves, a little bafil , pepper and falt, and a little coriander tied in a linen cloth ;

when the onions are tender,

chop

them very fine, fkim and fift their liquor , and put it with the chopt onions to the blood ; mix all together,

and fill the guts , but not too

full ; when well tied , put them in boiling water

you will know when they are done with

a pin, if the fat comes out inftead ofthe blood Boudins de Cochon de St Germain. Hog's Puddings by the name of a town in France. CUT onions in dices, and fry them in the quantity of hog's lard you intend to mix with the blood ; when thoroughly done, let it cool ; ſeaſon with falt and fpices, and finiſh as the former.

Boudins de Cochon fins. Hog's Puddings fine . CHOP eight or ten onions, according to the bignefs , very fine ; put them in a pan with four ounces of hog's lard ; fimmer flowly till the K 2 onions,

"

THE

148

PRACTICE

OF

onions are done ; take it off the fire, and add half a pint of cream, a pint of hog's blood, fix yolks of eggs , one pound of bacon cut in fmall dices , pepper and falt ; mix all together very well, and finiſh as the former directions .

Boudins blancs .

White Puddings.

BOIL twelve onions in fat broth , with chopt parfley,

fhallots,

thyme,

bafil,

two cloves

pounded , a little coriander tied falt and pepper ; maſh them well ;

in a bag,

boil them very tender ; add a handful of bread-

crumbs, and a little milk if neceffary ; mer them a little while,

till

fim-

they become

like a pafte ; blanch half a pound of ſweetalmonds ; pound and fift them with half a pint of warm cream ; add eight yolks of eggs, half a pound of bacon cut in fmall dices, breafts of roafted poultry chopt very fine, and more falt and fpices if needful ;

mix all

together, and boil as the former ; a fhort time will boil them ;

they ought to be pricked

with a pin, to hinder them from burſting.

Boudins blancs communs. Common white Puddings. BOIL onions as the preceding, according to what quantity you pleafe ; chop them very fine, and mix them with bread- crumbs foaked in cream ; add half a pound of bacon

cut

fmall, eight yolks of eggs , falt and ſpices to your tafte ; mix it very well, and boil as the former. Boudins

MODERN COOKERY.

149

Boudins des Foies des Merlans . Puddings of Whitings Livers . TAKE about a dozen of whitings livers according to their bignefs, waſh and cut them fmall, give them a fry in hog's - lard or butter, then let them cool ; boil three onions, two hallots, a little parfley and fweet

bafil, all

finely chopt, in a pint and a half of cream ; boil till the onions and herbs are done, and add the yolks of nine eggs, half a pound of flee cut in dices, and the fried livers, with falt and ſpices according to tafte ; the guts muſt not be filled too much, for fear they ſhould burſt ; boil in water about a quarter of an hour, then broil them in paper cafes .

Boudins des Foies gras. Puddings of fat Livers . To make nine or ten links of puddings, take

nine fat livers

chopt

very fine ;

boil

eight onions in broth , with a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs , half a clove of garlick, two cloves , and a little coriander tied in a bag ; when throughly done, take out the onions and cloves , maſh the onions very well , and add half a pound of bacon cut in dices, half a pint of cream, three half-pints of hog's-blood, falt and fpices ; mix all together ; put it over the fire juft to warm it, ftirring it continually for fear the blood ſhould ſtick to the bottom ; when it comes to a proper confiftence, finiſh as all former directions. K 3

Boudins

150

THE

PRACTICE

Boudins des Ecreviffes.

OF

Craw- fiſh Puddings ,

BOIL half a hundred

craw-fifh

about a

quarter of an hour ; then pick out the tails , which you cut in dices , and pound the fhells and fpawns ;

fimmer them in

butter for

about an hour ; then ftrain them through a French ftamine .

To make craw-fifh butter,

take the white of a roafted fowl finely chopt, foak it in cream and bread- crumbs , the tails , eight yolks of eggs,

four

roaſted

onions ,

two fat livers, half a pound of flee cut fmall, a little good cullis, falt and fpices to your tafte ; finish as the fat liver puddings.

Boudins de Faifan.

Puddings of Pheaſant .

MINCE the meat of a roafted pheaſant very fine, chop the bones fmall , and foak them in a pint of cream about an hour ; boil fix onions in broth, with a faggot of parfley, ſhallots , two cloves, pepper and falt ; boil it till the liquid is of a thick confiftence ; chop the onions very fine ;

mix them with the meat and breadcrumbs foaked in cream, and the cream where-

in you foaked the bones ; add eight yolks of eggs, three quarters of a pound of lard cut in fmall pieces, falt and fpices to tafte ; finiſh as all former. Boudins des Lapins,

Puddings of Rabbits .

TAKE the meat of a large roafted rabbit, chop it very fine

with the liver , foak the bones

MODERN COOKERY. 151 bones , and finiſh as the above . Pudding may be made of all forts of poultry or game. N. B. Moſt of the foregoing preparations may be boiled in cloth, as a common breadpudding, and ferved with a reliſhing-fauce. Cervelas fumés.

Large Sauſages fmoked .

ACCORDING to the quantity wanted, chop freſh pork, fat and lean together, as for common faufages ; feafon with falt and fpices ; ufe the largeſt guts, fill them full , hang them in the chimney a week or more as you pleaſe ; ſtew them in broth and water, with a little falt, parſley, fhallots , a clove of garlick, thyme, and laurel ; let them ftew flowly two hours or more , and ferve cold. N. B. Wood fire is beft for

all fmoked

meat, and all forts of cervelas are beft that come from Germany : they are made of all forts of meat, much in the fame manner as what the French call Mortadeles, and what are commonly called in England Bologna or Methwarth. Sauciffes de Cochon .

Common Pork Sauſages .

TAKE freſh pork more fat than lean , chop it very fine, feaſon with falt and fpices ; do not fill the guts too full ; fry or broil them on

a

flow fire Sauciffes de Veau.

Veal Saufages .

TAKE of fillet of veal , according to what quantity of faufages your intend to make ; K4 chop

152

THE

PRACTICE

OF

chop it very fine with as much beef- marrow cut in dices, mix it well with the veal, feaſon it according to tafte, and broil or fry them. Sauciffes aux Truffes.

Saufages with Truffles ,

MAKE the fame preparation as the former, either with veal or pork ; only mixing chopt truffles with it. Sauciffes de plufieurs façons. Saufages of different faſhions . Or whatever tafte you would have the fauſages, always have full as much fat as lean : if you would give them the tafte of garlick, fcald it fome time before you chop it, to mix with the meat ; parfley, the fame ; onions must be fried till almoft done, before mixing ; take care that neither gives too much flavour. Timbale de Boudins.

A Mould fo called , filled with black Pudding Preparation. SLICE ten or twelve onions , and fry them in hog's-lard over a flow fire ; when done, 1

add chopt

fhallots,

parfley,

falt and ſpices

to your taſte, with eight yolks of eggs , three quarters of a pound of flee, and a quart of hog's-blood ; mix all well together ; garnish the bottom of your mould or ftew-pan with thin flices of bacon, and upon this lay a piece of veal or hog's cowl as large as the pan ; put in the preparation , and faften it at top with the cowl ; bake it in a flow oven ; when

C

MODERN COOKERY.

153

when you judge it is done, turn it over upon the diſh ; take off the bacon , wipe the fat off, and pour over it a cullis -fauce with pepper and falt, with the juice of half a lemon ; you may do it without the flices of bacon , rubbing ་ the pan or mould well with butter.

Sauciffes á la Marinier. Saufages Sailor's- faſhion . PEEL eighteen fmall onions ; fry them in butter, with a faggot of parſley, ſhallots , a little bafil, thyme, and three cloves ; ftew flowly till the onions are done ; then take out the faggot ; add a little flour, and a pint of red-wine ; let it boil, and put in it what quantity of faufages you pleafe ; reduce to the confiftence of a fauce, a little before you ſerve it up to table ; fkim the fat off ; add a chopt anchovy, a few ſmall capers , and a little vinegar; garniſh with fried bread. Sauciffes á la St Claud, (a place near Paris) . Saufages St Claud- faſhion . PUT as many ſauſages in a few-pan as you think proper, with a little white- wine and a little oil or butter ; ſtew them flowly ; when done, fkim the fauce , add a little cullis , and ferve upon the faufages.

Sauciffes á la St Menehoult. Saufages broiled or baked . " FRY eight or ten fliced onions in butter ; when done, let them cool ; add two chopt anchovies

154 chovies ,

THE

PRACTICE

pepper

and

OF

falt, a little

pounded

anniſeed, and rafped lard or butter ; mix all together ; boil the faufages about half an hour, in a little white-wine and broth ; then peel the fkins off, and garniſh them with the forcedmeat ; dip them in melted butter or yolks of eggs , and ſtrawthem over with bread- crumbs ; broil or bake them till of a good colour ; ſerve with a cullis -fauce, and the fqueeze of a lemon.

Sauciffes aux fines Herbs. Saufages with fweet Herbs. LAY in the bottom of a ſtew-pan a few flices of veal and ham ; foak them about a quarter of an hour ; add the faufages , with a clove of garlick, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, a fprig of fennel, chopt mushrooms and fhallots, a little white-wine ; ftew flowly about half an hour ; add a little cullis ; fkim it well ; ftrain the fauce, feafon with pepper and falt and the fqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it upon the faufages .

Sauciffes en Ragout au Purée. Saufage Ragout, or with any fort of Porridges . VEAL and pork ſauſages may be dreſſed in many different ways ; being boiled with a little wine and broth, and a faggot of ſweet herbs ; may be uſed with any fauce you think proper; any fort of garden-ftuffs ftewed ; with For peafe-porridge or lentils, or brazed . the laft, put a little white-wine and broth, fliced

MODERN COOKERY,

155

fliced truffles, then faufages, andfo on ; cover with thin flices of bacon or not, ftop the pan very cloſe, and flew on a very flow fire ; when done, add a little cullis ; then give it a boil, fkim the fat off, and ferve with the faufage and truffles . Andouilles de Cochon . Large Pork Sauſages . ACCORDING to the length you would have them , cut the large guts or puddings ; when . very well cleaned, marinade them four hours in a little white-wine, three cloves of garlick, thyme, parſley and bafil ; then cut freſh pork in fmall fillets , and ofthe flee and fat guts the fame ; mix all together, and ſeaſon with a little pounded annifeed, falt and puddings ,

but

not

too full

fpices ; fill the for fear they

fhould burft ; when well tied at both ends, put them in a pan about their own length ; with falt and whole pepper, four cloves, a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs , two cloves of garlick, and boil them in milk and water ; when done, let them cool in their own liquor ; wipe them well before they are broiled ; you may hang them in the chimney to ſmoke, they will keep a long time. N. B. If any of the above ſeaſonings are diſliked, they may ( as in all others) be kept out ; but this is the real French way.

Andouilles de Boeuf. Beef Chitterlings or Saufages .

THE beef guts or puddings being cut and cleaned

1

156

THE PRACTICE OF

cleaned as the former, marinade them in the fame manner ; cut in fillets beef- palates or tongue, being firft boiled about three parts ; alfo cut in fmall dices cow's udder and pickled pork ; mix all this together ; add fliced onions firſt fried in butter, four yolks of eggs , falt and pepper to your tafte ; then fill the guts ; then boil them in water or fat broth, with half a pint of white-wine, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, onions, fliced carrots and parfnips ; let them cool in their own liquor ; broil them about half an hour.

Andouilles de Veau. Chitterlings or Sauſages of Veal. SCALD a calve's cauldron and udder about half an hour ; cut it in fmall pieces , with a pound of pickled pork or more ; mix all together with chopt fhallots, falt and ſpices to taſte, a little good cream, and four yolks of eggs ; finish theſe as all former.

Andouilles de Rouen, (a town in France.) Chitterlings Rouen-faſhion . CUT a calve's or lamb's cauldron in fmall pieces, with equal pork- flee cut fmall ; feafon it with a little anniſeed well pounded , and falt and ſpices to tafte ; when filled as all others, boil them in milk and broth or water ; let them cool in their own liquor ; broil, fry, or eat them cold.

Andouilles

5

MODERN COOKERY.

157

Andouilles á la Bechamel.

White Chitterlings or Sauſages. PUT a little butter in a ſtew-pan , with a clove of garlick, parfley, fhallots, thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little bafil ; foak on a very flow fire a quarter of an hour ; then add a pint of milk ; boil it to half; then ftrain it ; put to it a handful of bread- crumbs ; fimmer it till quite thick ; cut a calve's cauldron , a piece of freſh pork and flee in ſmall pieces, fix yolks of eggs , falt and ſpices to taſte ; fill as uſual , and boil in milk and water with a faggot, &c. finiſh as uſual . Andouilles des Poiffons.

Saufages of Fiſh.

TAKE eels fkins inftead of guts ; `uſe what fort of fish you pleaſe, cut off all the fleſh , and chop or pound the bones ; boil them in redwine, with fliced onions, a faggotof parſley and fweet herbs , and fhallots ; boil till pretty well reduced ; ftrain it, and mix the fish with it being cut fmall ; add the yolks of fix eggs , with falt and fpices to tafte ; cut the fkins in length about fix inches, but be careful not to fill them too full, or they will bûrft ; boil them in broth and red-wine, A or in water if you pleaſe, with a faggot of fweet herbs , onions , falt, and whole pepper ; let them cool in their liquor, and ferve broiled or otherwiſe.

Andouilles

158

THE

PRACTICE

OF .

Andouilles á la Flamande.

Chitterlings Flemish-faſhion . TAKE chitterlings of veal or pork ; boil them with favoys cut in quarters, firft fcalded and tied together again , in broth, a faggot ofparfley and fweet herbs, fhallots , a clove of garlick, four cloves, a little nutmeg, pepper and falt ;

when done , drain them , put

them upon the difh you intend for table, ferve upon them a cullis - fauce .

and

Andouilles de Veau au Parmefan. Small Chitterlings or Sauſages with Parmefan Cheeſe. CHOP fome lean veal coarſely ; add as much hog's flee cut in dices ; mix them together, with chopt parſley, fhallots, pepper, falt, and four or five yolks of eggs ; roll up this forcedmeat in thin flices of veal, and tie them with pack-thread ;

put them in a ſtew-pan with

a little white-wine and broth, and thin flices of bacon over ; ftew them flowly till done ; then take them out, and untie them ; ftrain the fauce, and add a little eullis ; reduce it pretty thick ; put half of it upon the diſh you intend for table, and rafped Parmefan ; put the chitterlings upon this, then the remainder of the fauce with Parmefan over ; put it in the oven till of a good colour ; add a little sharp fauce if neceffary.

1

Sauciffes

159

MODERN COOKERY.

Sauciffes de Sanglier. Saufages made of Wild-boar Meat. ACCORDING to the quantity you would make, take one pound of meat, half a pound of hog's flee, one ounce

of falt,

fpices to

tafte, a little faltpetre to redden the meat , and fo on in proportion ; put all together in a diſh . with a little wine ; let it marinade twentyfour hours, then fill the guts ; let them foak in a little wine for fome time, with falt, fhallots ,

thyme,

and laurel- leaves ; then hang

them in the chimney until they are quite dry ; when you want to uſe them, you may boil or braze them, but moſt people eat them raw. N. B. People whoſe buſineſs is ſmoking meat of any forts, know beft how to dry them, having proper places for the purpoſe.

Façon de faires les Jambons à la François. How to make Hams French fashion. ACCORDING to the quantity of hams you have to make, make a brine after this manner : Put in a tub all forts of ſweet herbs , fuch as pot marjoram, fweet ditto, winter favory, balm , thyme, laurel,

bafil , juniper- berries ,

a good deal of falt and faltpetre, the liquid half lees of wine and half water ; let it infuſe two days ; then fqueeze them well , and ſtrain the brine clear ; put your hams in this to ſoak about a fortnight ; then drain them and hang them up to dry ; if to keep long, rub

1

160

THE

PRACTICE OF

rub them now and then with lees of wine and vinegar, and throw afhes over them . Jambonde Mayence. Ham Mayence-faſhion . WHEN the ham is not very falt, boil it to half, without foaking ; then fkin it and wrap it in buttered paper ; roaft it , baſting now and then with a little brandy ; it will eat very well either hot or cold.

Jambon en Felly.

Ham in Jelly.

SOAK the ham till pretty freſh ; boil it till half done in water ; then put it into a pan much

of the fame bignefs ,

with

a large

knuckle of veal cut in pieces, two bottles of white-wine and broth,

three lemons peeled

and fliced, a large faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, fix fhallots , three cloves garlick , and when the ham is done, take it fix cloves out ; boil the broth till it is fit for jelly ; fkim and ſtrain it ; clarify it as all other jelly ; then clean the pan the ham was in, and put in it the ham the fkin -fide undermoft, the bottom being first garnished with parsley, beet-root, or what you pleaſe, in a pretty manner ; when the jelly is almoft cold, pour it over the ham ; remember the ham muſt be ſkinned . Jambon Roté.

Ham Roaſted .

THE ham being pared as for boiling, it must be fresher for roafting ; half boil it, then fkin it ; foak it with a bottle of whitewine,

MODERN COOKERY.

161

the wine, for eight hours, and baſte it with the white-wine while roafting ; fkim and ftrain the dripping it was bafted with , and thicken it with a little flour and butter ; add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it with the ham.

" Jambon á la Braife.

Ham Brazed .

PARE and foak a ham very well ; put it in a brazing- pan much of its bignefs , with broth without falt , a faggot of ſweet herbs , three cloves of garlick, eight cloves, fix bay- leaves, onions,

carrots ,

and parfnips ; when about

half done, add a little brandy and a pint of white-wine ; ſtew it very flow ; when done, ferve it with any forts of ftewed garden-ſtuffs , or with a fharp fauce, or a fauce made of its own braze ; the remainder is very good for moft fauces or ragouts . N. B. I am very ſenſible that feveral of the foregoing diſhes are

not

common in

this

country; but in juftice to the public, and particularly to my fubfcribers, (though fome may diflike them), I have given them for fake of the names, and to fhow the French faſhion . Roties de Jambon.

Ham Toafts.

CUT pieces ofbread ofwhat bignefs and ſhape you pleaſe, and fry them in butter till of a good colour ; take as many flices of foaked ham, and foak them in a little butter over a flow fire , turning them often till done ; then lay them uponthe bread; put a little cullis and broth in the fame pan, and give it a boil ; fkim off the fat, and add a L

1

162

THE PRACTICE OF

a little vinegar; let it boil a moment longer, and ferve it upon the toafts : the ham is prepared the fame way for poached eggs, or any fort of ftewed greens : flices of ham that has been at table may ferve the fame purpoſe. Filets de Porc frais .

Fillets of freſh Pork.

CUT the fillets out of the infide of the foins ( they are called in French Filets Mignons, viz . Favourite ; ) cut them in fmall pieces, and flatten them ; marinade them an hour in a little butter oroil, with chopt parfley, fhallots , mushrooms, pepper and falt ; make the herbs ftick to them as much as you can ; ftrew them over with crumbs of bread ; broil flowly, and bafte them with a little melted butter ; ferve with a little gravy and lemon-juice , or any other fauce you pleaſe.

Cotelettes de Porc frais. Cutlets of freſh Pork, CUT a neck or loin of pork in fteaks ; trim them properly; you may drefs them in the fame manner as veal cutlets, and in as many different ways, and ſerve with any fortoffauce ; when broiled, Robert-fauce is the moft common, and I think the moft proper..

OF WILD BOARS, OR WILD HOGS.

THE French fay the female is more eſteemed than the male, and both are better when they keep together and feed upon green corn : the

MODERN COOKERY.

163

the meat ought to be kept long before it is ufed. The beft part of a boar is the head ; it is moftly ferved cold : when brazed , the forequarter roafted, larded , and ferved with a ſharp fauce in a fauce-boat ; the hind - quarter dreffed as à la mode beef, or dobe : but the French allow that the Germans are beſt acquainted with their different qualities and uſes , and make thofe fmoked faufages of wildboars flesh which are much efteemed in England and other countries .

Gigot de Sanglier à la daube. Leg of Wild-boar daubed . LARD it through and through ; ſeaſon your larding bacon with chopt garlick,

fhallots,

and parſley ; put it in a brazing pan much of its bigness, with flices of bacon over , a large faggot of fweet herbs , onions, roots , cloves, whole pepper, and trimmings of any forts of meat ; foak it about half an hour, and add half a pint of brandy, a pint of white - wine, and broth fufficient to braze it ; flew it flowly for eight hours, and let it cool in the braze ; fkim off the fat, and ferve the jelly with the meat. Hure de Sanglier á la braife. Boar's Head brazed . SINGE and clean the head very well ; then bone it as far as the eyes, without cutting the fkin ; lard the infide as the leg, with the fame feaſoning; tie it up in a coarfe cloth, and braze it L 2

THE PRACTICE OF 164 it with all forts of fpices and roots, two lemons peeled and fliced, three bottles of redwine and two of water ; braze it about feven hours , let it cool in the braze, and ferve it cold . N. B. I am of opinion that any further directions on this head would be of little uſe in this country, as it is feldom we ever ſee fuch a thing ; nor do I pretend to have the practice of it myſelf, except that of the head : at the fame time, any cook that knows the practice and theory, may drefs the wild boar, as well as many other things , without an ocular demonftration .

OF LAMB.

LAMB is good at all ſeaſons , and of great refource in cookery, as every part of it may be uſed in many different ways, where variety of diſhes is wanted ; the fore quarter is of more uſe than the hind one, where there is a number of diſhes .

Tête d'Aigneau à la pluche verte. Lamb's Head of a pale-green Sauce. CUT the chops off the head to the eyes ; clean and blanch it well ; put it in a ſtew-pan upon thin flices of bacon, with a little broth and white-wine, a faggot of parfley and ſweet a clove of garlick, falt, and whole pepper ; when done, lift the fauce, and reduce

herbs,

MODERN COOKERY .

165

duce it to a proper confiftence ; add a little butter rolled in flour, and fome parſley chopt very fine ; when ready, diſh it ; make a liaſon , and ſerve upon the head.

Tête d'Aigneau à la Mordienne. Lamb's Head after the name of the inventor. PREPARE it as the former ; then put it in a ſtew-pan much of its bigneſs , upon thin flices of bacon, with half a lemon peeled and fliced, and a little broth ; ftew it on a flow fire till done ; then foak a flice in a little oil or butter, with a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , three fhallots, two cloves, one of garlick, a little bafil, chopt muſhrooms, confomme, or the broth ftrained from the head, and a little white-wine ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; fkim and fift it, and ferve it upon . the head . Tête d'Aigneau de plufieurs façons. Lamb's Head of different faſhions. THE heads being well cleaned and blanched , boil them in broth, with flices of peeled lemon, falt and whole pepper, a faggot of ſweet herbs, and three cloves ; when done, open the brains, and ferve with what fauce you think proper, as verjuice-fauce, which you make with a ſpoonful of verjuice or lemon in proportion,

a little cullis,

chopt parſley, a

little butter and flour, pepper and ſalt to taſte ; make a liaſon , and ferve upon the head or heads, or Spaniſh, Italian, truffles, mufhL3

rooms,

166

THE PRACTICE OF

rooms, cullis fauce, or what fauce you think proper. Tête d'Aigneau au Pontiff. Lamb's Head, Pontiff-fauce . TAKE a lamb's head , about three parts boiled ; chop fome mushrooms , and fat livers cut in dices ; put them in a few-pan with a little cullis and white-wine, a faggot of fweet herbs,

a little chopt fhallots,

pepper and

falt ; cut the tongue in dices, which you mix with the fauce ; then take the brains out of the head, and put it in the ragout or fauce ; cover it over with the brains cut in flices ; bafte them with a little of the fauce, breadcrumbs , and melted butter ; bake in the oven till of a good colour ; ferve with pontiff-ſauce, as you will find in the Sauce-articles . Tête d'Aigneau à la Condé. Lamb's Head Condé faſhion . TAKE a lamb's head, being done in a white braze ; ferve with a fauce made of verjuice, three yolks of eggs , pepper, falt, a piece of butter, fcalded chopt parfley, and a little nutmeg if agreeable ; make thefe articles in a liafon without boiling,

and ferve upon the

head.

Ifu d'Aigneau de plufieurs façons. Lamb's Head of different ways or faſhions. Issu (as the French call it) is the head, heart,

liver,

and chitterlings ; which being well

MODERN COOKERY.

· 167

well blanched, boil them in broth or water, with a few flices of lard or pickled pork, pepper, falt,

a faggot of fweet herbs , half a

clove of garlick, and three cloves ; when done, difh the head in the middle, the reft round it

cut in pieces,

with the

pickled

pork ; ferve with what fauce you pleaſe or is moſt convenient, or plain with a ſharp fauce in a fauce-boat.

It may likewiſe be done as a fricaffee, ragout, & c. & c. Epaule d'Aigneau á la Dauphin. Shoulder of Lamb Dauphin-faſhion. BONE a fhoulder of lamb all to the fhankbone ; make a forced - meat of fat livers, chopt muſhrooms or truffles , fcraped lard or butter, chopt parſley and fhallots , pepper, falt , and three yolks of eggs ; mix it well,

and put it

in the fhoulder ; faften it well to hinder the forced-meat from getting out ; then put it in a pan much of its bignefs, with a little broth and white-wine,

a faggot

of

parfley and

ſweet herbs , pepper, falt, and flices of bacon over ; ſtew it flowly till done, and ferve it upon ftewed fpinage, or any fort of gardengreens, ragout, or fauce, you think proper. Epaule d'Aigneau á la voifine. Shoulder of Lamb neighbour- faſhion . PREPARE the fhoulder as the preceding ; make a forced- meat of roafted fowls , calves udder or fuet, bread-crumbs foaked in cream, chopt parfley, ſhallots, pepper, falt, and four L4 yolks

THE PRACTICE OF

168

yolks of eggs ; then fill the fhoulder with it, and make it as round as poffible ; faften it well , that the forced- meat may not get out ; then

lard

it, and flew it in broth

of fweet herbs ;

faggot

with

when done,

a

ftrain

the fauce through a lawn-fieve , reduce it to a glaze, and glaze the larded part ; ferve with what fauce or ragout you pleaſe. Quartier d'Aigneau en Crepine. Quarter of Lamb in Cowl. BONE a fore-quarter of lamb, taking care ( not to cut the fkin ; make a forced-meat thus : Cut four onions in dices, and fry them in lard or butter ; when near done, add a little chopt fhallots , parfley, powder of bafil, pepper and falt to tafte, the yolks of five eggs, half a pint of cream , and half a pint of lambs blood ; fimmer over the fire without boiling until it becomes pretty thick : put this forced-meat in the lamb, and faften it well ; roll it in caul, and roaft it, bafting with butter or a thin batter and bread-crumbs ; when done, and of a good colour , ferve withfauce au Canard, (which you will find in the Saucearticles), or what you pleaſe. N. B. It may alſo be done without caul or Jarding.

1

Rot de Bifd'Aigneau au Monarque. Monarch-faſhion . It is cut the fame way as the Rot de Bif de Mouton. Take up the fkin as whole as you can, and

MODERN COOKERY.

169

and ſcarify the fleſh : then put into it flices of pickled pork, fat livers, truffles , onions , and fillets of anchovies, feafoned with pepper and falt ; and over this ,

a forced- meat made of

eight hard yolks of eggs , chopt parſley and ſhallots, ſcraped lard or butter, ſeaſoned with pepper and falt ; then fafter the ſkin over it ; ſtew it in

broth with

a faggot of

ſweet

herbs, a few ſhallots , a clove of garlick, four cloves,

whole pepper and falt, a bottle of

white- wine, and a few flices of bacon ; when done, fkim and ftrain the fauce through a lawn-fieve ; reduce it to a glaze , and glaze the lamb as a fricandeau, and ferve under it a reliſhing fauce .

Quartier d'Aigneau aux fines Herbs. Quarter of Lamb with fweet Herbs . TAKE a little butter rolled in flour, a few bread- crumbs , chopt parfley, fhallots , ſweet herbs, pepper and falt, a little white-wine and broth ; boil a little : the lamb being roaſted, take up the fhoulder, and put this fauce between, in the fame manner as is fometimes done with Seville oranges, pepper and ſalt.

Quartier d'Aigneau á la Reine. Quarter of Lamb with Queen-fauce, TAKE a fore-quarter of lamb ; roaft the fhoulder, and cut the neck and breaft in cutlets ; lard or not, with lard or truffles ; give them a few turns in a ſtew-pan , with a little butter,

chopt parfley, fhallots,

pepper and falt ;

1

170

THE PRACTICE OF

falt ; then roll them in bread -crumbs ; broil or bake them , bafting with butter ; make a fauce á la Reine ;

mince the fhoulder, and

mix it with the fauce ; warm it without boiling, and ferve with the cutlets upon or round it as you pleaſe. Queues d'Aigneau au Soleil, ( viz . the Sun.) Lambs Rumps fried of a bright colour. THE rumps being brazed or boiled ;

make

a light batter of flour , one egg, a little falt, white-wine, and a little oil ; fry them of a good colour, and ferve with fried parſley round : you may alfo put them to any fauce you think proper, being firſt brazed or boiled . Quartier d'Aigneau en Sauciffon. Quarter of Lamb as a thick Sauſage. BONE a leg of lamb, and cut above half of the meat out ; fimmer it a little while with a piece of butter ; then mince it with

calve's

udder, fcraped lard, bread -crumbs ſoaked in cream, chopt parfley, fhallots , truffles or mushrooms , falt and fpices ; put this compofition in the leg ; roll it up like a ſhort ſauſage, and tie it in a cloth very tight ; ftew it in broth, with half a pint of white-wine, a faggot of fweet herbs, fliced onions and carrots ; when done, ferve with what fauce you pleaſe, or with any ſort of ſtewed greens , or green peafe, afparagus, & c.

Carrés,

MODERN COOKERY.

171

Carrés d'Aigneau á la belle vive. Necks of Lamb well - looking, agreeable , & c .

TRIM two

necks

of lamb

handfomely,

and fcarify the fillets, which you fill with * fliced truffles, pickled cucumbers , beet- roots , carrots , & c. feaſoned with falt and ſpices , and a little of the powder of bafil ; cloſe the ribs of the necks in one another, and cover them with flices of veal ; tie them up in a cloth, and put them in a pan much of their bignefs, with a little cullis and white-wine, a faggot • of parſley and fweet herbs, three ſhallots , and half a clove of garlick ; ftew on a very flow fire till done ; then take off the cloth and veal ; fkim and ſtrain the fauce, reduce it to a proper confiftence, add the fqueeze of a lemon , and ferve it upon the meat.

OF

KID is

KID.

good when about three or four

months old, as at that age the flesh is delicate and tender ; it

is not commonly uſed but

when fucking ; it ought to be fat and white, and may be dreffed in the fame manner in all reſpects as lamb.

OF

172

THE PRACTICE OF

OF LARGE FIRST- COURSE DISHES, TUREEN, AND

OTHERS .

Terrine á la Flamande. Tureen Flemish- faſhion . BLANCH eight turkey-pinions, four fheeps rumps, a pound of pickled pork cut in flices, and two favoys cut in quarters ; tie each fort up together ; put all theſe in a pan or pot with broth, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , four fhallots, four cloves, pepper and falt ; ftew flowly till done ; then drain the meat and favoys, put them in the tureen , and ferve with a good cullis -fauce. Terrine á l1 Angloife .

Tureen Engliſh-faſhion.

MAKE a good cullis of lentils , as is directed in Cullis-articles ; boil about half a pound of rice in good broth ; take ſheeps or beef rumps, being well brazed and cut in pieces, flices of pickled pork the fame, and three or four pigeons cut in quarters ; put in the bottom of your tureen fome of the boiled rice , then fome of the meat, then lentil-cullis, and fo on, the laſt to be lentils ; fry fome breadcrumbs and garnish the top, and put it in a flow oven for half an hour. Any forts of brazed meat may be dreffed in the fame manner.

Terrine de ce que l'on veut. Tureen of what you pleaſe. You may make a tureen of any fort of butcher-

MODERN COOKERY. 173 • butcher-meat, fuch as tongues , beef- rumps , brifket, theeps rumps, or pieces of the neck and leg, being firſt brazed ; wipe off the fat, and put it in the tureen with what ragout you think proper, or cullis -fauce : if you mean to uſe their own broth, take care it be not too falt ; ftrain and ſkim it clean, and add a proper quantity of cullis to it .

Terrine de Bécaffes. Tureen of Woodcocks . THE Woodcocks being brazed , clean them well from fat, put them in the tureen, and ſerve with a good ragout of fweet-breads , fat livers, muſhrooms , or other, as you fhall think proper. You will find the method of making the ragouts in the Ragout-articles .

Terrine des Perdrix.

Tureen of Partridges .

TUREEN of partridges may be made of different forts, as with cabbages, favoys , lentil cullis, green peaſe, or a ragout of ſweetbreads, as the laft : take what number of partridges you think proper, trufs them as for boiling, lard the breaſts of ſome of them ; if you make it with cabbages or favoys , cut one or two in quarters, fcald them , then put them to ſtew with the partridges, quarters of

a pound

and about three

of pickled pork

cut

in large flices, broth, a faggot of ſweet herbs , three

cloves,

pepper

and falt if required ;

when done, drain the partridges and favoys ; put the partridges in the tureen with the favoys

174 voys

THE PRACTICE OF round or between them,

the

pickled

pork over, and ferve with a good cullis-fauce. Terrine des Queues de Mouton et Ailerons,

au

Coulis et Ragout de Marons. Tureen of Sheeps Rumps , Poultry- pinions,

with Ragout, Chefnuts and Cullis. SCALD eight fheeps rumps ,

and as many

poultry pinions as you think proper ; put the rumps in a ftew-pan, upon flices of bacon ; add broth and a little white-wine, a faggot of parfley and ſweet herbs, a clove of garlick, four cloves, a flice of ham , a little falt, and whole muſhrooms ; ſtew on a flow fire ; when the rumps are half done, add the pinions ; let them ftew flowly ; take as many chefnuts as you think proper, roaft them enough to peel both hufks

off,

take the beſt to boil

pound the reft to make a cullis with the broth of the firft preparation ;

tender in broth,

ftrain the cullis through a ftamine ; add a little veal cullis ; put the rumps in the bottom of the tureen, being well wiped from fat, then the pinions, then the and cullis. Terrine la Volailles .

whole chefnuts

Tureen of Poultries .

TAKE either turkeys , fowls , chickens, or pigeons, or feveral forts together as you think proper : if turkeys, cut them in quarters or in fmall pieces ; if pigeons or chickens , trufs them whole as for boiling, lard them or not with ham and bacon , ' finiſh them in a braze, and

MODERN COOKERY.

175

and ferve with any fort of ftewed greens or roots, or a ragout of fweetbreads ; alfo without greens or roots , but with any fort of fauce you shall think proper.

Terrine au Monarque. Tureen Monarch-fashion .

GARNISH the bottom of a few-pan or brazing-pan with flices of ham and veal, upon this a neck of mutton larded , about a pound of pickled pork cut in large flices, four pigeons truffed as for boiling, fíx quails , and three partridges ; feafon with powder of bafil, pepper and falt ; cover it with flices of lard and veal ; add a little broth , and a glaſs of brandy ; ftop the fteam geting out with a paſte made with vinegar ; ftew it on a very flow fire, or in the oven, about four hours ; make a ragout of fweetbreads, cockfcombs , chopped truffles, a little butter, broth, and cullis ; reduce the fauce pretty thick : the partridges, &c. being done, put them in the tureen , ſkim and ftrain their broth, and add it to the ragout, taking care it is not too falt ; let it boil a little together, and ferve upon the compofition in the tureen . Terrine de Lapreaux. Tureen of Rabbits . CUT as many rabbits in large pieces as you think proper ; lard them through and 1 through, the lard being feafoned with falt and fpices ; put them in a few- pan , with a piece of butter, two or three flices of ham , a

faggot

176

THE PRACTICE OF

faggot ofparſley and fweet herbs , three cloves , a clove of garlick, a little bafil ; fimmer them on a flow fire ; then put them in another pan, with all the ſeaſoning , upon flices of veal ; cover it over with flices of lard ; foak it half an hour on a very flow fire ; then add a little white-wine and broth : when done, put the rabbits in the tureen , and add ſome good cullis to their own broth ; boil it a little together, fkim and ftrain it, add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve it upon the meat. Terrine de Poiffons. Tureen of Fiſh.

TAKE fresh-water fish of what kind you pleaſe, or different forts together ; ſtew them with a few flices of ham and veal, a little broth and white-wine, a faggot of ſweet herbs , a clove of garlick, four cloves, a few flices of lard, pepper and falt ; when done, drain them, and put the fish in the tureen ; add a little cullis to their broth, fkim and ftrain it thro' a fieve, and ſerve upon the fiſh ; add to it what fort of ragout you pleaſe. Terrine de Saumon . Tureen of Salmon .

GARNISH a few-pan or brazing- kettle with flices of veal and ham; put upon it what quantity of falmon you think proper ; cover with flices of bacon, a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, four fhallots, a clove of garlick, four cloves , pepper and falt, a little broth and white-wine ; ftew it on a flow fire for about an hour ; take out the falmon , and put it in the

MODERN COOKERY.

177

the tureen ; add a little cullis to its liquor ; let it boil a little ; fkim and ftrain it through a fieve, and ferve it upon falmon ; you may alſo ſerve with a ragout of fweetbreads, or any other ragout or fauce you fhall think proper.

Terrine de Saumon aux Ecreviffes. Tureen of Salmon and Craw-fiſh .

TAKE three or four pounds of falmon ; cut it in four or five flices ; put them in a brazing or ftew-pan, with broth and white-wine fufficient to braze it, pepper, falt, and a little nutmeg ; ftew it flowly about an hour : at the fame time take half a hundred craw-fifh ; fcald them in boiling- water ; boil the tails in broth very tender ; dry the carcass before the fire, or in the oven ; pound them very fine ; add fome of the braze being well fkimed, and fome good cullis to them, and ftrain it thro' a ftamine ; let it be pretty thick ; then add the tails warm without boiling, and ſerve in the tureen upon the falmon . Cafferole au Ris.

Stew-pan of Rice:

TAKE half a pound ofrice, and waſh it in hot water ; boil it in fat broth ; ufe what kind of meat you pleaſe, being firft brazed , fuch as pigeons, poultries of any fort, ſheep or lambs rumps, pickled pork, &c.: lay a down of rice upon the diſh you intend for table ; then the meat upon this, then the reft of the rice ; M fmooth

!

178

THE

PRACTICE

OF

fmooth it with a knife dipt in melted butter, lard or baſte it with eggs, and colour it in the oven or with a falamander ; you may alfo do it in a ſtew-pan , proportionable to your diſh ; when done, turn it gently over to keep its form, from which it takes its name, viz. ftew-pan , Different Hochepot. Hodge-podge of different forts of Meat.

TAKE what kind of meat you think proper, as breaft of beef, mutton - chops, whole pigeons, rabbits cut in quarters, veal, or any fort of poultries ; ſtew in broth or water, with whole onions , carrots , parfnips , turnips , celery, all properly cut, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, a clove of garlick, four fhallots, one laurel-leaf, a little bafil , and four cloves ; ftew on a flow fire till done ; place the meat upon the diſh, intermixed with the roots ; fkim and 'ftrain the broth ; you may reduce part of it. to a glaze, and glaze the

meat ; then add

cullis to the fame pan the glaze was in, and broth fufficient to make fauce enough ; add pepper and falt to tafte ; let it boil a little, If you make then ftrain it upon the meat. it of breaft of beef, it must be above halfdone before the roots are put to it, which fhould be firft blanched, as it makes the broth more palatable. You may alſo add ſome thick faufages to it.

Sala-

}

3

MDEYRN COAKERY.

Salamelec.

179

A fancy dish or tureen.

TAKE a foup-pot, and put in the bottom lices of beef, a neck of mutton cut in cutlets, three partridges truffed as for boiling, a rabbit cut in pieces (and larded if you pleaſe), a few thick fauſages , à piece of ham firſt foaked in hot water, whole onions, carrots , parfnips, a faggot of fweet herbs, falt, whole pepper, and broth ; ftew on a very flow fire for four or five hours ; when done , drain and wipe the meat clean from fat ; lay it properly intermixed in the difh or tureen you intend for table ; fkim and ftrain the fauce ; add a little chopt parfley ; boil it a little, and ferve it upon the meat. Financiere.

A rich expenſive diſh.

TAKE four or five pounds of a head of ſalmon, and clean it well ; lard the upper part, and fill it with a ragout of fweetbreads, truffles , or mushrooms, &c.; faften it well, that the ragout may not get out ; put it in a brazing or ſtew-pan much of its bignefs , upon Alices of bacon and veal, with three or four flices of ham, a faggot of parſley, four ſhallots, four cloves , a little nutmeg, one laurel-leaf, ſome good broth, and a pint of white wine ; flew on á flow fire ; while this is doing, ftew four or five ſmall pigeons , as many ſmall fricandeaus , a dozen crawfish, and as many peeled truffles ; have ready a glaze ; when all is done, diſh the falmon, then the pigeons , &c. inter Ma

180

THE PRACTICE OF

intermixed round it ; glaze the meat, not the falmon ; make a fauce of conſomme and cullis , a glaſs of white-wine, a little pepper and falt, and ferve under the meat. Chartreux.

After the name of thoſe friars .

TRUSS one partridge as for boiling ; take fix fheeps rumps , and four legs of fowls ; braze all together, with flices of bacon , a faggot of fweet- herbs ,

fhallots,

a little bafil,

three cloves, whole pepper, falt, broth , and white-wine ;

fcald little pieces of

carrots,

parfnips, celery, and turnips neatly cut, and boil them in broth ; alfo have ready fome ftewed fpinage ; when the meat is done, ftrain the broth ; then take a ftew-pan the bignefs of the diſh you intend for table, and lay in the bottom the flices of bacon that were in the braze ; then lay the partridge in the middle breaſt undermoft, then the fheeps rumps and the legs of fowls in the form of ſtars, intermixed with the different roots and fpinage, without fauce ; put it fome time on a very flow fire ; when ready to ſerve, turn it over gently; take off the bacon ; wipe the fat off ferve with a cullis or any reliſhing fauce. Marbrée.

Marble- coloured .

TAKE fix or eight calves ears ,

as many

hogs and as many beef palates , being firft brazed ; when cold, chop them very fine, and put a

piece of butter in a ſtew-pan,

with

a few chopt truffles , parfley, and ſhallots ; add

MODERN COOKERY.

181

add a little white-wine, and fimmer about a quarter ofan hour ; then put the minced meat in with the breaſt of a roafted fowl cut in dices , a handful of fweet-almonds blanched and cut in flips , and hard yolks of eggs ;

ftew it

with a pint of white-wine, until the liquid is quite reduced ; then take another pan of the bigness you intend the marbree to be, rub it flightly with butter, then ſtick it with wafers of different colours in what form your fancy leads you ; add to the meat the juice of two or three lemons , and put it upon the wafers very cloſe ; fet it to cool : when you want to uſe it , dip the pan in warm water, and turn it gently out upon a napkin,

Corbillon.

Intermixed like a baſket .

TAKE fillets of any fort of game, fmall onions fcalded, a few craw-fish, alfo fix or feven ſmall fricandeaus ; braze in broth and a little white-wine, with flices of bacon, a ſlice of ham, a faggot of parſley, fweet herbs , fhallots , and three cloves ; when done, ftrain and ſkim the ſauce ; reduce it to a glaze for the fricandeaus, intermix all neatly upon the diſh, and ſerve with any good fauce you fhall think proper ; garnish with fried bread cut in dices or any other neat ſhape. This alfo may be intermixed with all forts of ftewed herbs and roots.

M 3

Mattelotte

T

182

THE

PRACTICE OF

Matelotte á la Royale, Matlot Royal-faſhion . BLANCH fix lambs brains, and one dozen and a half of cockfcombs ; put them in a ftew-pan upon lices of bacon, with fillets of rabbits larded with anchovies, pieces of eels larded the fame, pieces of carp, pinions of fowls or chickens, eight craw-fifh trimmed, a dozen and a half of ſmall onions blanched , half a peeled lemon fliced , fome good broth, and a glaſs of white-wine, a fpoonful of oil , a faggot of parsley and fweet herbs, four fhallots,

one clove of garlick,

four cloves ,

a

laurel-leaf, whole pepper and falt ; ſtew flowly till done ; then take out the cockſcombs , brains, & c. and clean the fat well off; lay it upon the diſh handfomely intermixed ; ftrain and fkim the fauce ;

add a little cullis to

thicken it, and fpans of craw-fish or lobsters ; boil it a little, and ferve upon the meat.

Matelotte de ce que l'on veut. Matlot of what you pleaſe. TAKE half a pound of pickled pork cut in four or five pieces , eight or ten fheeps rumps , fix or eight pinions of fowls , and two dozen fmall onions ; put all together in a few-pan between flices of bacon and veal, with a faggot ofparfley and fweet herbs , whole pepper, falt, and three cloves ; foak on a flow fire about a quarter of an hour, then add a little broth and white-wine ; stew flowly till all is done ; then

MODERN COOKERY.

183

then take out the meat, and place it handfomely on the diſh ; fkim and ſtrain the fauce ; add a little cullis, a chopt anchovy, and two ſpoonfuls of whole capers ; boil a little, and ferve it upon the meat ; garnish with fried bread, cut as you fhall think proper : You may alſo uſe lambs or hogs rumps , or whatever forts of meat you think proper. N. B. The rumps ought to be half done before the reſt are put to them .

But in this,

as well as all others , the cook must act according to his own judgment in refpect to the time that different forts of meat take in doing.

Matelotte á la Prufienne. Matlot Pruffian-faſhion . CUT a pound of pickled pork in pieces ; alſo the griftles of a breaft of veal in the fame manner ; braze them together with flices of bacon, half a lemon peeled and fliced , a faggot as ufual, a laurel- leaf, four cloves, broth, and a little white-wine ; when about half- done, add a chicken cut in four, an eel cut in pieces , pepper and falt ; when all is done enough, take them out, clean the fat off, and intermix them on the difh ; fkim and ftrain the fauce ; add a little cullis and butter, and reduce it to a proper confiftence ; when ready to ferve, add fome chopt boiled parſley, and ſerve upon the matlot ,

M 4

Matelotte

THE

PRACTICE

OF

184 Matelotte au General. Matlot fit for a General. TAKE twelve large onions ; fcoop the infide out, which you will fill with a good forced-meat made of veal or poultry ; braze them with flices of lard ; add one dozen of fat livers, a faggot, a laurel -leaf, a little bafil, pepper, falt, and broth ; ftew flowly ; fcald a dozen of cockfcombs , and make a ragout of them, with cullis and a little whitewine ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; intermix the livers and onions upon the diſh, and ferve the ragout upon them . N. B. All thoſe diſhes under the denomination of matlots, may equally be ferved in tureens. Matelotte aux Oignons d'Hollande. Matlot with Dutch Onions.

BRAZE ten or twelve pieces of beef-rumps in broth, &c. as uſual ; when more than half done, add as many large onions, being first blanched ; when done, ftrain and fkim the fauce, add fome cullis and a little red-wine, and ferve as all former.

Gateau de viande de ce que l'on veut. Meat- cake of what forts you pleaſe. ACCORDING to the bignefs you intend to make the cake, take of beef, leg of mutton, fillet of veal, hare, beef-fuet, and raw ham ; chop all together pretty fine ; feafon with falt and

MODERN COOKERY.

185

and fpices, chopt parfley, fhallots, powder of bafil,

a clove of garlick, the yolks of ten

eggs, a gill of brandy, about a pound and a half of fresh bacon cut in fmall dices ; mix all well together ; then take a ftew-pan the bignefs of your cake ; cover it over with flices of bacon, and then your minced meat ; cover it clofe, and put it in the oven for about four hours ; when it is cold, take it out of the ftew-pan, and fcrape the lard with a knife to make it even and white ; you may garniſh with colours according to fancy, and ſerve upon a napkin.

Gateau à l'Espagnole. Cake Spaniſh-faſhion. MAKE a forced-meat with two pounds of veal, a pound of beef-fuet, chopt parfley, mushrooms, fhallots, a gill of brandy, pepper, falt, and eight yolks of eggs ; garniſh a few-pan with flices of bacon, and put part of the forced-meat in it ; leave a hole in the middle to put a ragout of pigeons , fweetbreads, or what you pleafe ; cover it over with the remainder of the forced -meat, and flices of lard ; bake it in the oven about two hours and a half, then turn it over gently upon the diſh you intend for table ; take off the bacon, and wipe the fat off very clean ; then bafte it with yolks of eggs and cullis , and ſtrew it over with bread- crumbs ; put it again in the oven to take colour, and ferve upon it a fauce á

1

186

THE

PRACTICE

OF

á l'Espagnole, as you will find in the Saucearticles .

OF

POULTRY.

Poulettes enfricaffee. Fricaffee of Chickens. CUT your chicken or chickens in pieces ; put them in hot water to blanch as you cut them, alſo the liver and gizzard , and the legs finged over the fire ; cut off the claws ; when well blanched , put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, ſome muſhrooms , a faggot of parfley and ſweet-herbs , one onion ftuck with two cloves , a piece of lemon-peel , or rather two flices firft peeled, and a flice of ham ; fimmer it a little over the fire ; then add a little flour and boiling water, or broth ; ftew the chickens until done ; feaſon with falt to tafte ; if liked , add a little pepper and nutmeg : the fauce being reduced to a proper confiftence, add a liafon made of the yolks of eggs and cream , to fuch as don't love cream , mix the eggs with broth .

Fricaffee de Poulettes à lafarmiere. Fricaffee of Chickens farmer-faſhion . KILL two chickens, and fcald them ; cut them in pieces, and blanch them in hot water ; give them a fry in butter, with ſweet herbs, three cloves , pepper and falt ; reduce the fauce ; when done, add a liafon made of yolks of eggs , milk or cream, a little nutmeg and vi-

negar :

MODERN COOKERY.

187

negar : this is only done in a hurry ; and if the chickens do not cool, it will be pretty tender. Differentes Fricaffees des Poulets. Fricaffee of Chickens in different manners. CUT the chickens in pieces ; put them in a ftew-pan, with a piece of butter, a faggot of parſley and green fhallots, a little flour, a glafs ofwhite-wine, and broth ; ftew till they are done ; take out the faggot, and add a liafon made of yolks of eggs and broth , a little chopt parfley, and the fqueeze of a lemon. If you would have them with muſhrooms on freſh morels, put the chickens, muſhrooms , or morels , together in a ſtew-pan, with a piece of butter,

falt,

and the juice of half a le-

mon, which keep them white ; ftew flowly until they are done, the muſhrooms or morels will yield liquid enough ; add butter, flour, and cream ; warm without boillng. Poulets á l'Etievée. Stewed Chickens or Matlot. CUT a carp with the roe in pieces ; alfo a chicken cut in pieces, one dozen and a half of ſmall onions, a flice of ham, a faggot of parfley and green -onions , thyme, laurel, bafil, and four cloves ; put all together in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter ; fimmer a little on a flow fire ; then add broth, cullis , a little white-wine, flour, pepper and falt ; let it ftew till the chicken is done, & c . and

188

THE

PRACTICE

OF

and the fauce reduced ; take out the faggot and ham ; add a chopt anchovy and a few capers, and place the chicken on the diſh ; fkim the fauce, and ferve it with the meat ; garnifh with fried bread, Poulettes á la Cavaliere. Chickens Cavalier-faſhion. TRUSS as many chickens as you want as for boiling ; marinade them two hours in oil, with flices of peeled lemon, parſley, ſhallots , a clove of garlick, thyme, laurel , falt, and fpices ; tie them up in flices of lard and paper, with as much of the marinade as you can ; broil on a flow fire ; when done , take off the paper, lard, and herbs ; ferve with what fauce you think proper.

Poulettes Mignons aux Ecreviffes. Mignons, a favourite difh ; fmall chickens , with a ragout of craw-fiſh. BONE two chickens all but the legs and wings ; ftuff them with a raw falpicon , made with ſweetbreads,

mushrooms

cut in dices ,

ſcraped lard or butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots , powder of bafil, pepper and falt ; then give the chickens their proper form ; wrap them in flices of bacon , and tie them in cloths ; put them in a pan much of their bigneſs ; ftew with broth ,

a little

white- wine, and

a faggot of fweet herbs ;

when done, take

off the cloths and bacon, wipe the fat off, and ferve with a ragout of craw- fiſh tails , and

189

MODERN COOKERY.

and cullis ; you will find the way to make it in the Cullis-articles. Poulettes à la Perle. Chickens in the form of Pearls. CUT one, two, or three chickens in two ; bone them all to the legs, and fill each piece with a falpicon as the former ; give each half the form of a pearl ; cut the legs pretty ſhort to give them a pointed form '; few them up, and braze them with flices of bacon, veal, broth, a little white-wine, two or three flices of peeled lemon, a faggot, four cloves , pepper and falt ; when done, fift and fkim the fauce ; reduce it to a proper conſiſtence, and ferve upon the chickens .

Poulettes au Pontiffe. Chickens with Pontiff-fauce . BLANCH one dozen fmall onions ; then put them to marinade, with truffles , three fat livers cut in dices , oil, falt and pepper, chopt parſley, fhallots , and a little bafil ; bone two chickens all to the legs, and put the marinade in them ; trufs the legs upon the breaſt, and faſten them fo that the marinade cannot get out ; put two ſlices of lemon on the breaſt, with flices of bacon over ; roaft them,

and

ferve with a Pontiff-fauce, as you will find in the Sauce-articles.

Poulettes

THE PRACTICE

190

OF

Poulettes á la folette. Chickens, wanton or fantaſtic. CUT parsnips and carrots according to fancy ; boil them in broth, with a dozen of ſmall onions ; cut a few truffles , muſhrooms , and a flice of ham in dices ; put theſe laſt in a ſtewpan with a piece of butter, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, and three cloves ; give them a fry in the butter, little white-wine ;

then add gravy and a

ftew flowly until done ;

fkim it very clean ; add a little cullis or butter and flour ; then put the roots to it, with a handful of olives firft ftoned ; ftuff two chickens

with farcie made

of their livers,

butter, bread-crumbs, chopt parfley, fhallots, pepper and falt ; wrap them in flices of bacon or buttered paper, and roaſt them ; when done, ferve the ragout upon them.

Poulettes á la Belle-vue. Chickens with a well-looking fauce. HALF-boil twelve fmall onions ; then put them in a ftew-pan with a piece of butter, three flices of peeled lemon, mushrooms, fat livers cut in dices, pepper and falt ; ſtew this flowly about a quarter of an hour without liquid , and let it cool ; bone two chickens, and ſtuff them with the farcie ; wrap them in buttered paper, and broil or roaft them ; ferve with a Sauce á la belle vue, as you will find in the Sauce-articles .

Poulettes

T

MODERN COOKERY.

191

Poulettes á la Mariée.

Chickens, Bride-faſhion. BONE two chickens ; ftuff them with farcie made of minced livers, chopt parſley, ſhallots, a little bafil, a piece of butter or fcraped lard, pepper and falt ; marinade a while in oil ; then wrap them up in flices of veal, ham, and bacon, then in buttered paper ; put them in a ſtew-pan upon a very flow fire ; when done ,

take off the bacon, & c. wipe

them clean, and ferve with Nonparel -fauce. N. B. You may do them without being at the expence of veal , ham, and bacon , or even oil, by uſing more butter.

Poulettes á la Italienne. Chickens, Italian -faſhion . TRUSS two chickens as for boilling ; lard them with ham and bacon ; give them a fry in butter or oil ; then put them in a ſtew-pan, with flices of veal , and the butter they were fried in, three cloves, a faggot, a clove of

I garlick, pepper, falt, and half a lemon peeled and fliced ; cover with flices of bacon ; foak it very flowly about half an hour ; then add about a gill of white-wine ; when done, ſkim and fift the fauce, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, and ſerve it with the chickens.

Poulettes á l'Afpic. Chickens with Aſpick Sauce. BLANCH

one dozen fmall

onions ;

put them 1

1

192

THE PRACTICE

OF

them in a ſtew-pan with truffles or muthrooms cut in dices, chopt parfley, fhallots , fat livers, thyme, powder of bafil , and a little oil or butter ; fimmer this until all is done ; add pepper and falt, and let it cool : then take out the breaſt-bone of two chickens, and ſtuff them with this ragout or falpicon ; wrap them up in flices of bacon and paper, or buttered paper only ; finiſh them in roafting ; and ſerve with afpick-fauce, as in Sauce- articles. Filets des Poulettes á la Bechamel pannée. Fillets of Chickens, with Bechamel-fauce and Bread-crumbs . CUT the hind part of two or three chickens off, meaning the legs and rumps, they will ferve for another difh ; roaft the breafts ; when done and cold , cut the meat in fillets, mix them with a bechamel fauce, and put it in the diſh you intend for table ; ftrew breadcrumbs over it , baſte with a little melted butter, and give it a colour in the oven or with afalamander. You will find the fauce in Saucearticles. The breafts of cold roafted chickens, fowls, capons, or turkies, will anſwer the fame. Filetsfouffles á la Bechamel. Fillets puffed, with Bechamel-fauce . PUT a piece of butter in a ſtew-pan , with a flice of ham, three or four fhallots , two onions, all fliced,

a little bafil, thyme, and

parfley ; foak it upon the fire ; then

add a

fufficient quantity of cream ; reduce it to a

proper

MODERN COOKERY.

193

proper confiftence, and fift it through a ſieve ; add falt and pepper, put to it fillets of roaſted poultry, rabbits , partridges , & c. with the whites of three or four eggs ; beat to a fnow ;

mix all together ; put it in the diſh you intend for table, with bread - crumbs over ; colour as the former, and ſerve quite hot.

4

Fleurons á la brunette.

Flourish in form of Petit-patés . TAKE petit-patés moulds or

any other;

garnish the infide with thin flices of lard ; cut truffles in form ofwhat flowers you pleaſe lay this upon the bacon, the upper parts ofthe moulds for a border ; garnish the lower part with any forts of greens of different colours , being firſt ſcalded ; rub them over with whites of eggs to make them ftick; then mince the breaſt ofa roafted fowl, with the parings ofthe truffles ; add fhallots , pepper, falt, and four or five yolks of eggs ; fill the moulds with this, and cover them with thin flices of lard ; bake in the oven, about a quarter of an hour will bake them ; take off the lard at top, and turn them gently over upon a diſh ; take off the lard gently, put them on the diſh intended for table, and ferve with a good fauce made of cullis and white-wine.

N

Poulettes

194

THE PRACTICE OF

Poulettes á la Bricoliere.

This name is taken from the way of being truffed, as reſembling part of a chairman's ftrap, or the harneſs of a ſhaft-horſe. BONE as many ſmall chickens as you think proper all to the legs , which trufs upon the breaft ; give them a few turns in a ſtew- pan , with a little oil or butter, and three or four thin flices of peeled lemon ; put them in another ftew-pan, with flices of ham and veal, the oil or butter, and lemon , which you uſed first ; cover them with flices of bacon, three cloves, a clove of garlick, thyme, laurel, pepper and falt; foak this about a quarter of an hour ; then add a little white -wine and broth ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce ; add a little cullis, or butter and flour, and ferve upon the chickens.

N. B. In this as well as many other diſhes, you may avoid uſing the bacon. Petites Poulettes aux Pavies. Small Chickens with preferved Nectarines . TRUSS two or three very ſmall chickens as round as poffible ; fry them a little in butter ; then put a few flices of peeled lemon upon their breaſts, wrap them in buttered paper, and roaft them : in the mean time, take nectarines preſerved in vinegar, cut them in flices or quarters , and foak them in warm water to take out the taſte of the vinegar ; mix a little

MODERN COOKERY.

195

little cullis and gravy, ſtew the nectarines in ìt, and ferve upon the chickens .

Fricaffee de Poulettes á la Bourdais. Fricaffee of Chickens, after the name of the Inventor. CUT the chicken or chickens as ufual ; put them in a ſtew-pan, with a piece of butter, a flice of ham, a faggot, three ſhallots , three cloves, and a little bafil ; foak theſe together for a little ; then add broth, a little flour and white-wine ; ſtew till the chickens are done, and the fauce reduced to a proper confiftence ; add a liafon made with three yolks of eggs and broth, a little verjuice, or the juice of a Lib

lemon ; put the fricaffee upon the diſh you intend for table, let it cool, then ſtrew it over with bread-crumbs, bafte it with butter, and colour it in the oven or otherwiſe.

-2 De Couleurs que l'on fefort á la Cuifine. Of Colours ufed in Cookery. FOR red, take pounded baked beet root ; add a little cullis to it, and ftrain it through a ftamine : you may alſo make a paſte of it, which you may cut in any form or flower you pleafe, to garnish any thing you think proper, bafting whatever you garniſh with

• whites of eggs ; put it in the oven a little to Yellow is made with yolks of hard eggs dry. pounded, Green is

and cullis made

fifted

as the former. • with fpinage ſcalded and N 2 pounded,

196

THE

PRACTICE

oF

pounded, the water being well ſqueezed from it, and finiſhed as the former ; the fame of Alfo faffron and cochineal make any others . very good colours : if you mix a little melted ifinglaſs with each, it will make the jelly ftronger and fitter to cut in different shapes , with which you may garniſh any cold diſhes according to fancy .

Poulettes Hiftories. Chickens garniſhed or embelliſhed . TRUSS two large chickens as for roaſting ; give them a few turns over the fire in a ſtewpan, with a piece of butter, and the juice of a lemon to preſerve their whiteness ; then take them out and wipe them very clean, cut a large onion in round rings , baſte the breafts of the chickens with whites of eggs, then dip the rings of onions in the whites , place three or four on each breaft,

and

and in

them lay different colours as your fancy fhall direct . For red , ufe lobfter or craw-fiſh ſpawn, or minced ham , or fome of the former colours ; for green , ufe green herbs of a good flavour ; for yellow, hard yolks of eggs ; for white, breaſt of roafted fowl minced :

then

cover them over with flices of bacon ; put them in a ſtew-pan with flices of veal and ham, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , four cloves, three flices of peeled lemon, pepper and falt, broth, and a little white-wine ; cover with white-paper ; let it ftew on a flow fire

MODERN COOKERY.

197

fire about an hour ; take off the bacon gently, and fkim the fauce, add a little cullis or butter

rolled

in

flour, and

with the

ferve it

chickens .

Colottes des Poulettes aux petites Oignons. Colottes

are the

Legs and Rumps

cut off

together. WHEN you have occaſion to uſe breaſts of chickens, forced- meat fillets, & c. tie up the hind-parts in what form you pleaſe ; put them in a few-pan with a piece of butter and the juice of half a lemon ; give them a few turns on the fire ; put them in another ftew-pan with the butter they were fried in , two flices of ham, a faggot, two dozen ſmall onions blanched ; cover it over with thin flices of bacon ; add broth and a little white-wine, and braze flowly ; when done, ſkim and ſtrain the fauce ; add a little cullis , reduce it to a proper confiftence, and ferve it up with the meat. Alfo the fmall onions are to be ferved with the fauce.

Poulettes aux Ecreviffes. Chickens with Craw-fish . BONE two or three middling

chickens,

and roll them pointed at the neck part ; take as many large craw-fiſh as chickens , braze them together with a little jelly-broth, a glaſs of white-wine, a faggot of fweet herbs, a clove of garlick,

pepper and N 3

half

falt ; braze flowly

THE

198

TICE OF CT AC RA PR P

flowly about half an hour ; take them out ; wipe the fat off ; lay them on the diſh you intend for table ; ftick the neck part in the tail of the craw-fish , the body upon the chickens, the claws upon the fides ; fkim and fift the fauce, add a little cullis , reduce it to a proper confiftence, and ferve upon the chickens . Poulettes à l'Excellence,

Chickens Excellency-faſhion . CUT about a quarter of a pound of pickled pork in thin flices ; foak it till , about three parts done ; then put to it chopt truffles , fat livers, parfley, fhallots, pepper and falt, a little white-wine ; fimmer all together, till done enough ; then add three yolks of eggs to thicken it, and let it cool ; take up the fkin of two chickens, and ſtuff ſome of this ragout under the reft in the infide of the body ; trufs them for roafting ; give them a fry in a few-pan with butter and the juice of half a lemon ; then wrap them in flices of lard and paper, follows :

to

Garniſh

roaft ; make a fauce as ftew-pan with

a ſmall

- flices of ham , bacon, and veal, bits of carrots and parsnips, a parfley root, two or three onions fliced, a little thyme, one laurel-leaf, three cloves, a little oil or butter ; foak about a quarter of an hour ; then add a little broth and white-wine ;

braze it about

an

hour

longer on a very flow fire ; when you are ready to ferve, add three fcalded chopt fhallots, with

MODERN COOKERY.

199

with a little butter rolled in flour ; the chickens being roafted, ferve the fauce upon them .

Poulettes á la Jardiniere. They take the name from the Garden things which make the Sauce. MAKE a fauce with a few flices of ham , bits of carrots, parfnips, fliced onions , and a little bafil ; foak it till it catches a little ; then add a little broth, a glass

of white-wine ,

two

cloves , one of garlick, and ſtew flowly ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce ; add fome fcalded chervil chopt, and a little butter rolled in flour ; 1 give it a boil, and ferve it under roafted chickens.

Poulettes en Papillottes. Chickens in Paper, MAKE a forced- meat with fix hard yolks of eggs, four fat livers , calves-udder, beefmarrow, chopt parfley, fhallots , and muſhrooms ; add three yolks of raw eggs, and mix all well together with pepper and falt . Take two or three boned chickens ; cut each in four, and ſtuff them

with the above farcie ; roll

them round , and faften them well ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a little lard or butter ; give them a fet on the fire, with fpices, falt, chopt parſley, fhallots, and mushrooms ; then wrap them in flices of lard and paper, with all their feaſonings : bake them in the oven ; when done, take off the paper and lard, and fave as much of the herbs as you can to mix N 4 with

"

200

THE PRACTICE

or

with a little cullis and gravy ; warm them together, add the juice of half a lemon, and ferve it upon the chickens.

Poulettes á la Dauphin. Chickens Dauphin-faſhion . TRUSS two chickens for roafting ; make a farcie with the livers, chopt parfley, ſhallots, mushrooms, pepper, " falt, and nutmeg, a piece of butter, and the yolks of three eggs ; when roafted, put a littlefarcie under the legs and wings, made with bread- crumbs , butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots, pepper and falt ; put the chickens in a ftew- pan, breaft undermoft, with a little jelly-broth and a glaſs of whitewine ; fimmer about ten minutes ; when ready to ſerve, add the fqueeze of a lemon .

Poulettes en Sauciffons . Chickens as large Sauſages, MAKE afarcie of the breaſts of roafted fowls, bread-crumbs foaked in cream , calves-udder half-boiled, beef-marrow, a few baked onions, chopt parfley, fhallots, mushrooms, falt and fpices, a glafs of brandy, and fix raw yolks of eggs ; mix all well together ; then make another raw farcie, called Salpicon, with a fcalded fweetbread, a few livers, pepper and ſalt; then split them at the back ; bone them ; put upon each a piece of the firft farcie, then fome of the fecond ; roll them round like faufages , and tie them well with pack-thread ; braze them with

MODERN COOKERY.

with

201

a little broth and white-wine ; when

done, let them cool ; take off the packthread, then put the remainder of the farcie round them, roll them in cauls, bafte them with eggs and bread-crumbs, and put them in the oven till of a fine brown colour ; for fauce, ftrain and skim the broth which they were brazed in, and a little cullis ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon , and ferve under the chickens. Poulettes à l'Amiral. Chickens Admiral-fashion . TRUSS two chickens for roafting ; make a farcie with the livers, chopt truffles, parfley, fhallots, fcraped lard or butter, pepper and falt ; ftuff the chickens with it, and put a few flices of peeled lemon on the breaft ; wrap them

in buttered

paper,

and

roaft them ;

take ſome large oyſters , ſcalded in their own liquor, and beard them ; rub the bottom of a few-pan with butter, lay a down of fliced mushrooms or truffles, with a little pepper and falt, chopt parfley and fhallots , upon this a bed of oyfters ; continue in this manner two or three times over, pouring a little melted butter upon

them ; cover the

ſtew-pan, and foak it about a quarter of an hour ; then drain the oysters and mushrooms to put upon the chickens ; add a little cullis to the fauce,

and a glaſs

of white-wine ;

boil it a little, and ſkim it very clean ; add the

THE

202

PRACTICE

OF

the fqueeze of a lemon, when ready to ferve upon the chickens. Poulettes á la Tartare. Chickens Tartary-faſhion . TRUSS two chickens as for boiling ; ſplit them at the back ; flatten them, and marinade a while in oil, with chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms, half a clove of garlick, pepper and falt ; make as much of the marinade ſtick to them

as poffible,

ftrew them with

bread-

crumbs, and broil them on a flow fire, bafting with the remainder of the marinade ; ferve. with fauce remoulade in a fauce-boat. You will find the way to make it in the Sauce- articles . Poulettes marinées. Chickens marinaded.

CUT two or three chicken as for fricaffee; put the pieces in warm water as you cut them ; then drain the water off, and put them about two hours in a marinade made of water and vinegar,

pepper and falt,

parfley,

ſhallots,

fliced onions, thyme, laurel, lemon, and cloves ; keep the marinade on hot aſhes , to give it more tafte ; in the mean time make a batter of flour, one egg, a little falt, and white-wine or ſmall beer ; then wipe the chickens very clean, dip the pieces in the batter one by one, fry them in hogs lard of a good colour, and garnish with fried parſley.

Poulettes

1

203

MODERN COOKERY.

Poulettes au Verd-pré. Chickens (Meadow- green .) See Sauces. TRUSS two chickens for roafting ; make a farcie with the livers, butter, chopt parsley, fhallots, pepper and falt ; ftuff the chickens with it ; wrap them in flices of lard and paper, or buttered paper only ; roaſt them, and ſerve them with the above fauce. Poulettes á la Cardinal. Chickens Cardinal -faſhion , TAKE two chickens ; cut the breaſt- bone out; feparate the fkin from the fleſh without cutting it ; and ftuff them between with craw-fiſh butter, pepper and ſalt, chopt ſhallots, and a little bafil ; few them up very well;

give them

a few turns in

a ftew-

pan over the fire, with a piece of butter ; then wrap them up in flices of bacon and paper, or buttered paper only ; roaft them ; make a fauce ofjelly-broth and a little white- wine ; when ready, add a little craw-fish butter and the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it upon the chickens . Grenadins des Poulettes.. Small Fricandeaux of Chickens . THEY are done in the fame way as the large ones, ftuffed, larded , brazed, and glazed,

and ſerved with what fauce you think

proper,

Poulettes

204

THE

PRACTICE

OF

Poulettes aux Trufes. Chickens with Truffles . GARNISH the bottom of a ftew-pan with flices of veal and fliced, a faggot,

ham ,

truffles whole or

a little

powder of bafil,

three cloves, pepper and ſalt : trufs two chickens as for roafting, put them in the ſtew-pan, and cover with flices of bacon ; foak it about a quarter of an hour ; then add a gill of whitewine, and finifh on a flow fire ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, add a little

cullis,

reduce it to a proper confiftence, put the truffles round the chickens, and ſerve the fauce

upon them.

Chickens

roafted

with

truffles are done with mincing the livers and truffles together, mixed with a little butter, pepper, and falt ; ftuff them

with

it , and

ſerve with a ragout of truffles.

Poulettes á la St Claud. Chickens St Claud-faſhion. BONE two chickens all to the legs ; ftuff them with a ragout or falpicon, made of chopt muſhrooms or truffles, fat livers , anchovies cut in dices , and fmall onions , pepper and falt,

ftewed with cullis till pretty

thick ; few them up, and trufs them as if they were not boned ; fry them a little in oil or butter ; braze them with flices of bacon, flices of peeled lemon, and cullis ; when done, ſkim and fift the fauce ; add a little more cullis if needful ,

MODERN COOKERY.

205

needful, with pepper and falt, and ſerve upon the chickens .

You may alfo ferve with any

fauce you think proper, boned, brazed , and ftuffed as above .

Poulettes á la Liafon, aux petites Oeufs compofees. Chickens, with Liafon-fauce, and ſmall ſham Eggs .

TAKE two chickens ;

cut them in quar-

ters, and braze them ; when done, ſkim and fift the fauce very clean ; add the yolks of two or three eggs, beat up with fome ofthe fauce ; while the chickens are brazing, make your ſham eggs as follows : According to the quantity wanted, foak bread-crumbs in good cullis , until quite thick; put it in a mortar, with a little chopt parſley, fhallots , and ſweet herbs, fome melted beef-marrow or good butter, the yolks of fix hard eggs, pepper and falt ; pound theſe together ; then add the yolks of three or four raw eggs , mix all well together, and make little balls of it ; boil them a little in water with a little falt, or give them a fry in butter, and put them in the fauce as prepared, and ferve upon the chickens.

Poulettes à la Villageoife. Chickens Country-fashion . TRUSS two chickens as for boiling,

cut

out the breaſt-bones, and give them a fry with butter ; lard the breafts with parfley, the fides with

206

THE

PRACTICE

OF

with bacon ; roaft them, bafting with hog's lard to keep the parſley criſp ; when they are done, fplit the breafts, pour in a ragout of cucumbers, under.

and ferve

a good

cullis -fauce

Poulettes au Gartin. Chickens Gartin-faſhion . TAKE roafted chickens, cut them in pieces, and put them in a ſtew-pan with a little cullis and white-wine, a little butter, chopt parſley, fhallots , muſhrooms , pepper and falt ; ftew all together about a quarter of an hour ; put half of the fauce in the diſh you intend for table, with bread-crumbs or raſpings, and the chickens upon this ; ſtew it, or put it in the oven until it begin to catch at bottom, (which is the meaning of gartin) ; when ready, add the remainder of the fauce upon the chickens .

Poulettes á la Reine. Chickens with Queen's -fauce. . TAKE roafted chickens, fuch as have been ferved before, or others ; cut the flesh off the breaft ; cut out the breaſt-bone ; make a forcedmeat of the flesh, beef-fuet, bread- crumbs foaked in cream, chopt parſley, ſhallots, pepper, falt, a little nutmeg, and four yolks ofeggs ; fill the chickens with this as if whole, and fmooth it with a knife dipped in whites of eggs ; ftrew it over with bread- crumbs , and bake them in the oven ; ferve with queen's-fauce . Poulettes

MODERN COOKERY.

207

Poulettes au Celadon.

Chickens with Sea-green Sauce. BOIL

a

good quantity of garden- creffes

and parfley, ſqueeze the water out, and pound the herbs very fine ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a good deal of butter, and ſtew them about half an hour; then ſtrain it through a ftamine, preffing hard with a fpoon to extract the green from the herbs ; take part of this butter to make afarcie, with livers minced , pepper and falt ; ftuff the chickens with it ; wrap them in flices of bacon and paper (or buttered paper only), to roaft ; put a little cullis in a few-pan , boil it a little, and put to it fome of the former butter ; add the ſqueeze of a lemon, chickens.

when

ready to ferve upon the

Filets des Poulettes en Caiffes. Fillets of Chickens in Paper-cafes .

1 TAKE the breafts of as many roaſted chickens as you think proper ; cut them in fillets ; marinade them in oil or butter, with parſley, fhallots, muſhrooms, pepper and falt ; make cafes of writing paper, and put the fillets in them with marinade ; put then in the oven, (a little time will

do

them) ; when done,

wipe the fat as clean off as

poffible ; add

a little cullis, and the ſqueeze of a lemon.

Cuiffe

208

THE

PRACTICE

Cuiffes des Poulettes,

OF

a differentes

Sauces et

Ragouts. Legs of Chickens, with different Sauces and

Ragouts. WHEN you have occafion to uſe the white meat by itſelf, which is often the cafe where there is a deal of work, the legs will likewife ferve for a good diſh ; braze them in a white braze, and ſerve them with what fauce or ragout your pleaſe.

Poulettes á la Ducheffe . Chickens Dutchefs - faſhion . CUT three or four artichokes for frying, leaving only a few of the tender leaves; blanch them in boiling water, then in broth, with a few flices of peeled lemon, pepper and falt; make a fauce with a little clear broth, a glafs of white- wine, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms, a little butter and flour, a ſprig of fennel, which you only boil for a very little, then take it out, and fkim it well ; roaft two chickens, put them on the diſh, with the artichokes round, and the fauce over all .

Poulettes aux Petit-pois. Chickens with Green - peaſe. CUT your chickens as for fricaffee ;

put

them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter ; give them a few turns ; add a little flour, a faggot of parfley, fhallots, a little mint, a little

MODERN COOKERY.

209

ittle broth, about a quart of green -peaſe ; ftew on a flow fire, add a little cullis and falt, make the fauce pretty thick ; take out the faggot before you ferve, if you would make them white ; ufe neither cullis nor gravy, only a little falt ; and when done, add a liafon made of the yolks of three or four eggs and cream .

Poulettes au Parmefan. Chickens with Parmefan-cheeſe. BRAZE two chickens, with flices of veal and bacon, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , four cloves, and two onions ; foak this for ten minutes, then add a little broth and white-wine, falt and whole pepper, a piece of butter, and a little cullis ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, and put part of it upon the diſh you intend for table, with rafped Parmefan, then the chickens ; baste them with the remainder of the fauce, and Parmeſan over ; put them in the oven till of a good colour ; clean the diſh, and ſerve with a cullis-fauce.

Poulettes au blanc mangé. Chickens with white eating. BOIL a pint of cream , with a little coriander, two laurel- leaves , and a handful of ſweet almonds finely pounded ; ftrain it through a ftamine ; then add fix yolks of eggs beat up with a little cream ; put it upon the fire, ſtirring it conſtantly, but do not let it boil : then mince O the

THE PRACTICE OF

210

the breaſt of a roafted fowl and beef-marrow, feafoned with pepper, falt, and nutmeg ; mix all together : bone two chickens, and ſtuff them with this compofition ; few them

up very

faſt, and trufs them properly ; put to them a little boiling water ; then braze them with flices of lard and milk, a faggot, four fhallots,

four

cloves, whole pepper

and

falt ;

when done, prick them in feveral places to let the fat out ; wipe them with a clean cloth, and ſerve with queen's- cullis.

Poulettes au Sultan . Chickens Turkiſh-faſhion .

MAKE bread,

a falpicon with

a ſcalded ſweet-

fat livers, mushrooms , ſcraped

lard,

chopt parfley, ſhallots, pepper and falt ; ftuff two boned chickens with this , and braze them with flices of lard, a few flices of lemon firft peeled, two flices of ham, a faggot, three cloves, broth, and a little white-wine ; ftew on a flow fire till done ; then ſkim and ſtrain the fauce ; add a little good cullis , and fham eggs as before directed, (fee Chickens with fham eggs ) ; boil it about ten minutes, and ferve upon the chickens . Poulettes en Salade.

Chicken and Salad.

CUT two or three good lettuces as for falad ; put them in the bottom of your falad -diſh, and upon them fillets of roafted chickens, intermixed

with anchovies ,

chopt

capers , and falad-

MODERN

COOKERY .

-211

falad-herbs, in the manner offlowers or any

other defign. Poulettes aux Piftaches. Chickens with Pistachio- nuts. BONE two fmall chickens all to the legs and wings ; ſtuff them with a farcie made of fweetbreads, chopt truffles, or muſhrooms, ſcraped lard , pepper, falt, and three yolks of eggs ; trufs them as if whole, and few them upto keep the farcie in ; braze them about an hour on a flow fire ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce ; add a little cullis, and a handful of piſtachio-nuts blanched ; boil together a little, wipe the chickens very clean, and ſerve the fauce upon them . Matelotte des Poulettes aux Racines. Matlot of Chickens with Roots. CUT one or two chickens in quarters , and fix or ſeven flices of pickled pork ; put theſe in a ſtew-pan, with a little broth and cullis, a faggot, and three cloves ; let it ſtew flowly, and cut carrots and parfnips in what ſhape you pleaſe ; peel one dozen fmall onions, blanch theſe together ; then put them in another ftew-pan with a piece of butter, and foak them a while on a flow fire ; then add a little broth and cullis ; when about three parts done, fkim and fift the fauce of the chickens, and put it to the roots ; reduce it to O 2

THE PRACTICE OF

212

to a proper confiftence, and ſerve it upon the chickens, the pickled pork intermixed .

Poulettes glacées.

Chickens glazed .

TRUSS two chickens as for boiling ; lard and braze them as fricandeaux ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce ; reduce it to a caramel or glaze, and glaze the breafts of the chickens ; put a little cullis in the fame ftewpan, to gather the remainder of the glaze, which will ferve for fauce, adding the ſqueeze of a lemon.

You may alſo ſerve them with

any fort of ſtewed greens or ragout.

Poulettes á la Paysanne. Chickens Country-wife's faſhion.

BOIL a handful of bread-crumbs in cream till thick; then take it off the fire, and add a quarter ofa pound of butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots , a little thyme, five yolks of eggs, pepper and falt ; ftuff two chickens with this compofition ; wrap them in flices

of lard

and

paper, or buttered paper only ; roaſt them ; make a fauce of a little piece of ham , one anchovy,

a few whole capers , pepper and

falt, broth and a little vinegar, the fauce upon the chickens .

and ferve

Poulettes en Gelée , appellées au pere douillet. Chickens in Jelly, called au pere douillet, viz. a Fribble , & c. TRUSS two chickens as for boiling ; lard them

.

MODERN COOKERY.

213

them with large lardons or pieces of bacon rolled in fpices and fweet herbs ; boil them with a knuckle of veal, being firſt blanched , a pint of white-wine, and a few flices of ham, a faggot, fhallots , four cloves, and a little coriander ; when the chickens are done, take them out and let them cool ; boil the broth till ſtrong enough for a jelly ; then ſkim and ſtrain it, then add a peeled lemon fliced, two eggs and the ſhells ; put it upon the fire to clarify ; when it is clear, ftrain it through a jelly-bag ; garniſh the breaſts of your chickens with parsley and other colours in whatever form you pleafe, bafting the chickens . firft with whites of eggs to make the colours ftick ; then put the chickens in a pan much of their bignefs, the breaſts undermoft, and pour the jelly over them ; put them to cool; when you want to uſe them, dip the pan in hot water, and turn them gently over upon a napkin.

Poulettes á la Marmotte. Chickens, young wench fashion . CUT parfnips and carrots in what ſhapes you think proper, and ſtew them in broth ; cut pickled cucumbers and muſhrooms in dices ; put them in a ftew-pan , with a little butter, half a clove of garlick, a faggot, three cloves , and a little broth , pepper and ſalt ; ſtew on a flow fire ; when almoft done, add a little cullis , and the roots ; ftew a little together ; 03 add

THE PRACTICE OF

214

add the juice of half a lemon, and ferve with roafted chickens .

OF FOWLS AND

CAPONS.

Poularde au court Bouillon,

A Fowl with its own Gravy.

TRUSS a fowl for boiling ; lard it through and through with bacon, ham, and parfley ; put it in a pan much of its bignefs , with a little butter, two or three flices of peeled lemon, a faggot, three cloves , fliced onions and carrots, pepper and falt, a little broth, and a glaſs of white-wine ; ftew flowly till done ; ſkim and ſtrain the fauce, and ſerve with the fowl : you may alfo do it the fame without larding. Poularde au Reveil.

A Fowl with a ſharp Sauce, TRUSS a fowl for roafting ; make a farcie with ſcraped lard or butter, a little tarragon, chervil,

burnet, garden-crefs,

pepper, falt,

and the yolks of two or three eggs ; ftuff the fowl with it ; make a fauce with a little cullis, a few of the above herbs pounded, two anchovies, and a few capers ; when done , ftrain it, then add a little more cullis, and a little muſtard, pepper and falt; warm without boiling, and ferve with your roafted fowl.

Рои

MODERN COOKERY.

Poularde á la Royale.

215

A Fowl Court- faſhion

STUFF a fowl with a cold ragout , made of fweetbreads, fat livers, muſhrooms , & c.; few it up, and roaft it, with flices of lard and paper ; make a ragout of pistachio -nuts , broth and cullis, pepper and falt ; ftew about a quarter of an hour, and ferve with the roaſt fowl.

Poularde á la Servante. A Fowl Servant-faſhion .

TRUSS a fowl for roaſting ; make afarcie with the liver, chopt parfley, fhallots, butter, pepper and falt ; ftuff the fowl with it, wrap it in buttered paper,

and roaſt it ;

when three parts done, take off the paper, baſte it with yolks of eggs beat up with melted butter and

a good deal

of bread-

crumbs ; finiſh roafting ; it muſt be of a fine yellow colour ; make a fauce with a little butter, one anchovy chopt, a.few capers,

a

little flour, broth, pepper and falt , and a little nutmeg ; thicken with a laifon , and ferve under the fowl. Poularde au Duc. MAKE

A Fowl Duke-faſhion.

a falpicon with ſweetbreads

and

muſhrooms ; put this in a ftew-pan, with a little broth and cullis , a glaſs of white-wine, a faggot, a clove of garlick, a little flour, three cloves , pepper and falt ; reduce the 04 fauce

THE PRACTICE OF

216

fauce to a proper confiftence ; take out the faggot, cut

cloves and garlick, and let it cool ; out the breaſt-bone of a fowl, lard it,

ftuff it with the falpicon, and braze it with a white brąze ; when done , fkim and fift the braze ; reduce it to a glaze, and glaze the fowl ; ferve with a pontiff-fauce, or any other you think proper.

Poularde á la Reine, A Fowl with Queen's-fauce.

BOIL a pint of cream, with a little coriander-feed, two laurel-leaves, a little bafil, and a handful of pounded fweet almonds ; ſtrain theſe through a ftamine ; then add fix yolks of eggs, the breaſt of a fowl minced, a little beef-marrow, pepper and ſalt, and nutmeg ; put it on a flow fire until the marrow is melted, then put it to cool : bone a fowl all to the legs and wings, and ftuff it with the above ; few it up very cloſe, blanch it in boiling water, then braze it in a white braze ; when done, prick it in feveral places to let the fat out, and ferve with a queen's- cullis .

Poularde en Sauciffe, A Fowl in the form of large Saufages, CUT a fowl in two, bone it, and flatten it very well; make a forced -meat of breafts of roafted fowls, fuet, bread-crumbs foaked in cream , calves-udder, chopt parfley, ſhallots, pepper, falt, and the yolks of three or four eggs ; put of this forced meat on each piece of

MODERN COOKERY.

217

of fowl, roll them up in the form of faufages, and wrap them up in flices of bacon and pieces of cloth ; braze them in broth , a glafs of white-wine, a faggot, whole pepper and falt, fliced carrots and onions ; when done, fqueeze it gently to get the fat out, take off the cloths and lard , and ferve with what fauce you think proper.

Poularde Frite.

A Fowl fried.

CUT a fowl in quarters , and braze it ; when done, let it cool in the braze ; then take the pieces out, rub them over with the fat of the braze,

and ftrew them with bread-

crumbs ; then dip them in yolks of eggs, and again in bread-crumbs ; fry in hogs -lard till of a good colour, and garniſh with fried parſley.

Poularde en Cengarat. Fowl with Slices of Bread and Ham. ( See Pigeons do.) STUFF a fowl with a farcie made of fat livers,

muſhrooms,

truffles,

chopt

parfley,

fhallots, fcraped lard or butter, beef-marrow, pepper and falt ; give it a fry in butter ; fry as many flices of bread and ham as will cover the fowl, and of the ſame length ; lay the bread firſt upon the fowl, then the ham ; tie

it up, and wrap

it in buttered paper,

and roaft it ; put a pan under to fave the gravy that drops from the fowl, and ferve it under the fowl, with the bread and ham . Pou

1

218

THE PRACTICE OF

Poularde á la Tartare. A Fowl Tartar-faſhion . SEE

Chickens

ditto,

done in the fame

manner, except that you may cut the fowl in quarters inſtead of halves ; marinade with the fame preparation,

making proper allowance

for time and quantities.

Proper attention is

the beſt guide to all references of one diſh to another.

Poularde aux Trufes.

A Fowl with Truffles ,

TRUSS a fowl for roafting ; ſtuff it with a farci

made with the liver, truffles, pepper,

falt, and a piece of butter ; wrap it in flices of lard and paper, or buttered paper only ; peel and cut a few truffles in large flices ; foak them with a little butter, a faggot, a clove of garlick, one laurel-leaf, a little bafil, and two cloves ; then add a little broth, cullis, and white-wine, pepper and falt ; reduce it to a proper confiftence, fkim it well, (your fowl being roafted), add the fqueeze of a lemon. Fricandeau d'une Poularde. Fricandeau of a Fowl.

BONE a fowl, and ftuff it with a falpicon made as ufual ; few it up, and give it a fry in butter, then lard it as fricandeau ; braze it with flices ofveal, bacon , a faggot , carrots , onions, three cloves, whole pepper and falt ; braze flowly till done, then fkim and ftrain the fauce ;

MODERN COOKERY.

219

fauce ; reduce it to a glaze, and glaze the fowl with it ; ferve with what ftewed greens or fauce you think proper.

Poularde en Etuvée.

A Stewed Fowl.

TRUSS a fowl for boiling ; put it in a ſtewpan with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, and muſhrooms ; foak it on a flow fire about a quarter of an hour, turning it often ; then put it in another ftew-pan ,

firft gar-

niſhed with flices of veal and ham , and all the firſt ſeaſoning ; cover with flices of bacon ; foak it for a quarter of an hour longer, then add a little whole pepper and falt, a little broth and white-wine ; finiſh it on a flow fire, then fkim and ftrain the braze ; when ready, add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve уроп the fowl, being well wiped from fat.

Poularde au Sang. A Fowl ftuffed with Blood. MINCE three or four onions ; fry them in butter until they are almoſt done ; then add chopt parſley, ſhallots, a little coriander-feed pounded, pepper and falt, half a pound of beef-marrow, fix yolks of eggs, and half a pint of hog's blood ; thicken it on the fire without boiling; cut out the breaft-bone of a fowl , and ſtuff it with this compofition ; few it up, wrap it in buttered paper, and roaft it ; ferve with a cullis-fauce,

Filets

04

220

THE PRACTICE OF

Filets de Poularde á la Poulette. Fricaffee of Fillets of Fowl . 1 PUT in a ſtew-pan a little butter, a few fmall muſhrooms, a fweetbread cut in fillets, a flice of ham,

a faggot,

an onion

ftuck

with three cloves, and a little chopt fhallots ; foak it a little, then add a little flour and broth, pepper and falt ; when done, take out the faggot, onion and cloves, and put the fillets of roafted fowls to it ; warm without boiling, and add a liafon made of three yolks of eggs and cream ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze ofa lemon.

Theſe fillets may be ſerved with any

fauce or ragout : the fauce gives the name.

Poularde en Crepine. Fowl done in a Caul.

TAKE a boned fowl, and cut it in two or four pieces ; fill theſe with a good forced-meat, roll them in caul, either braze or do them in the oven, and ſerve with a reliſhing-fauce. Poularde en Galantine. A Fowl in Cake or marbled .

It is done the fame as the fucking pig, or any other diſh under the fame denomination ; boned , ſtuffed , and brazed ; ſerve either hot or cold,

Pou-

221

MODERN COOKERY.

Poularde á la Financier. A Fowl, the Receiver of the King's Reyenue faſhion.

SPLIT the back of a fowl, and bone the back only ; ftuff it with truffles and fat livers chopt,

with

mushrooms,

fcraped

lard

or

butter, the yolks of three eggs, pepper and falt ; few it up, and put it in a brazing-pan, with flices of lard without broth ; braze flowly between two fires ; its own gravy will ſerve for fauce, being well fkimmed ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of a Seville orange.

Filets de Poularde Soufflée á la Bechamel. Fillets of Fowl with raiſed Bechamel-fauce.

PUT a piece of good butter in a ſtew-pan, with a flice of ham, chopt parſley, ſhallots, and fliced onions ; foak thefe together a while ; then add flour, cream, and broth, of each a proper quantity ; boil it until it is

pretty

thick, then ftrain it through a fieve , and add fillets of roafted fowl, the white of four eggs beat to a ſnow, pepper and falt ; beat all together to make it rife ; put it in the diſh you intend for table, ftrew it over with breadcrumbs, baſte it with butter, and put it in the oven till of a good colour. You may drefs fillets of any forts of poultries, or game, after the fame way : Alfo with fillets intermixed with craw-fifh ; only obſerve not to pour

222

THE PRACTICE OF

pour the fauce upon the craw-fiſh, as it would fpoil the look of the diſh. Poulardes au Miroir.

Fowls with a clear Jelly. CUT the legs and rumps of one, two, or three fowls ; then ſplit the reft at the back, without feparating the breafts ; wrap them in flices of bacon and paper, with flices of peeled lemon ; roaft them ; when done, fet them to cool ; then take off the ſkins, and pare off any ſpots that may be, as they must be very white ; lay them croffwife upon the diſh you intend for table, with hard yolks of eggs, craw-fifh, and green girkins, properly difpofed as fancy ſhall direct ; then make a good meatjelly clarified as ufual, and pour it over the It is a handfome breaft of the fowls, &c. cold difh. It is generally called à l'afpic, when there is tarragon vinegar in the jelly and a Any tittle tarragon ftewed with the meat. fort of meat, fish, or fruits, may alſo be done the fame way in jelly, feaſoning each according to their quality and quantity. Cuiffes de Poularde á l'Eventail. Legs of Fowls in the ſhape of Fans. BONE as many legs of fowls as you pleaſe, all to the ftumps ; braze them with ham cut as for larding, broth and white-wine, a faggot, three cloves, a clove of garlick, a laurel-leaf, a little whole pepper, no falt ; when

+

MODERN COOKERY.

223

when the legs are almoft done, take them out and the ham ; fkim and ftrain the fauce ; reduce it to a 4 glaze, and glaze the legs ; let them cool ; then make holes in them to ſtick the ham in, in form of fan-fticks ; then dip them in batter made with flour, one egg, a little falt, and a ſpoonful of oil and whitewine ; fry them in hog's lard, of a good colour ; ferve quite hot ; garnish with fried parfley : you may do the fame with a roafted fowl which has been ſerved before.

Cuiffes de Poularde au Quadril. Legs of Fowl, (Quadril) , from the Sauce be-

ing ferved in four Quarters. MAKE a good reliſhing ragout of ſmall muſhrooms and truffles cut round and ſmall , and foak in a piece of butter and broth ; when done, add a little good cullis and the ſqueeze of a lemon ; ſkim the fat off ; then take two legs of fowls, being firſt brazed , wipe them clean from fat, and lay them crofs onthe difh ; then garnish with the muſhrooms and truffles quarter-ways, to give it a handſome look ; each muſt be ſeparated from the other, which gives it the name of Quadril ; put no more fauce than to cover the muſhrooms and truffles . or

This diſh may be done without truffles

muſhrooms ,

with any fort

of garden-

ftuffs , fuch as carrots , turnips , celery , fpinage, & c. & c.

Riffolles

224

THE PRACTICE of

Riffole á la Bechamel. A fry of Poultry with Bechamel-fauce. CUT the remainder of a cold turkey, fowl, or veal, in dices ; make a

capon, chicken,

fauce with a little butter, two flices of ham , parfley, fhallots, a laurel- leaf, and a little thyme ; foak theſe on a flow fire about a quarter of an hour ; then add a little flour, cream and broth, pepper and falt ; reduce it to a proper confiftence, and ſtrain it through a fieve ; put to it the dices of poultry or veal, with the yolks of two eggs ; warm it without boiling ; let it cool ; roll out a little puff-paſte very thin , and wrap fome of this ragout in it, in as large or ſmall pieces as you ſhall think proper ; pinch them all round as apple-puffs, fry them in hog's lard till of a good colour, and ferve them hot.

Poularde en Hochepot. Hodge-podge of Fowl . BRAZE a fowl being cut in quarters, with about half a pound of pickled pork cut in thick flices ; make a ragout of ſmall onions, and all forts of roots cut in what ſhapes you pleaſe, (the liquor of the braze will anſwer the ragout) ; when done, intermix the pork and fowl with the ragout upon the diſh, and ſerve with a good cullis : you may alſo ſerve it in a tureen,

Pou

MODERN COOKERY.

225

Poularde en Heriffon. Fowl-like a Hedge- hog. TRUSS à fowl for roafting ; make a farcie with its liver, butter, chopt parfley, ſhallots, pepper and falt ; give it a few turns over the fire in butter ; lard

it

with

ham, to ſtick

pretty far out ; roaft it, bafting with good butter or oil ;

ferve with cullis -fauce ,

and

the juice of half a lemon ; you may alſo intermix the ham with truffles properly cut.

Poularde en Cipoulate. Tureen or Matlot of Fowl. CUT a fowl in four pieces or more ; braze it with flices of veal, pieces of pickled pork, a dozen and a halfof fmall onions, a faggot, and three cloves ; foak theſe about a quarter of an hour ; then put to it a few fauſages and broth, and cover it with flices of bacon ; braze on a flow fire till done ; then fkim and ſtrain the fauce ;

add

a little butter rolled in flour ;

reduce it to a proper confiftence ; intermix the fowl,

pork-faufages, and onions, upon the

diſh, or in a tureen ; add the juice of half a lemon to the fauce, and ferve it upon the matlot.

Cuiffes des Poulardes aux Trufes. Legs of Fowls with Truffles .

THEY are brazed as for any other dish, and P

226

THE

PRACTICE

OF

and ferved with a ragout of truffles or muſhrooms ; then they will bear the name of either.

Cuiffes des Poulardes au Prince. Legs of Fowls Prince-faſhion . CUT ham and anchovies for larding ; ſoak them in water till you think they are pretty freſh ; then lard as many fowls as will make a good difh ; marinade them a while in a little white-wine, the juice of a lemon , pepper and falt ; make a farcie with butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots , and capers ;

put each leg

in a piece of puff-pafte, and the farcie, the marinade being mixed with it ; bake in a flow oven ; when done, open the top of the paſte, and ſerve with a fauce au celadon, which you will find how to make in Sauce-articles.

Poirs de Poulardes aux Trufes. Legs of Fowls in the form of Pears with Truffles . BONE as many legs of fowls as you think proper all to the ftumps ; make a farcie with livers, ſweetbreads , truffles, muſhrooms , butter, chopt parſley, fhallots, pepper, falt, and the yolks of three eggs ; ftuff the legs ; make them in form of pears ; braze them with a little broth and white-wine, whole pepper and falt ; when done, ferve with a ragout of truffles which you will find how to make in the Ragout-articles.

Cuiffes

MODERN COOKERY.

227

Cuiffes des Poulardes en Gelé. Legs of Fowls in Jelly. THEY are larded with

ham

and bacon ,

and brazed, the jelly made as ufual ; alfo legs au confommé ; they are brazed with veal and ham fufficient to make a

rich

fauce, with

roots and proper fpices, and a little tarragon ; when the legs

are done, fkim and fift the

fauce ; when ready to ferve, add a little chopt parſley and the ſqueeze of a lemon . Culottes des Poulardes à l'Italienne. Legs and rumps of fowls,

Italian- faſhion.

IT has been obſerved , that what the French call culottes, is the two legs and rumps cut together, and may be dreffed in all the diffe rent ways of the other parts of fowls, and with all the different fauces : this is called Italienne ; being marinaded in oil , herbs and ſpices , as uſual , an hour before brazing. Oil ought not to be uſed much in cookery in this country, as it is feldom to be had ſo good as the French and Italians have it ; but if we have not good oil, we have good butter, which will anſwer the fame purpoſe in general.

Quenelles de Poularde.

Forced-meat Balls.

TAKE the breaſt of a rawfowl, and ſcrape it down very fine ; then pound it in a mortar, a piece of good butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, a little bafil, the yolks of two P 2 eggs,

with

228

THE

PRACTICE OF

eggs , with the whites beat to a ſnow, pepper and falt ; when all is well pounded, put it upon a diſh ; then have ready a ftew-pan with broth boiling on a fmart fire ; and as it boils, take a fpoonful at a time of the forcedmeat, and put it to boil in the broth, and fo on till all is done ; when they are done like poached eggs , take them out one by one with a fkimmer ; fkim and fift the broth ; add a little cullis ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; add the ſqueeze of a lemon , and ſerve upon the quenelles .

Cuiffes de Poulardes á la Bacchique. Legs of Fowls Bacchus -faſhion . BONE as many legs of fowls as you think proper, and flatten them as well as poffible ; then lay upon them a forced- meat, made of butter, bread- crumbs , chopt muſhrooms, parfley, ſhallots , pepper, falt, and the yolks of three eggs ; roll them up, tie them in flices of bacon, and braze them in half a pint of whitewine and a little broth ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, add a little butter rolled in flour, alfo add a liafon, and ferve upon the legs .

Ailerons des Poulardes au Dindons des differentes

Pinions

façons. of Fowls or Turkeys of different faſhions.

BRAZE them in a well- ſeaſoned braze ; you may

1 MDEYRN COAKERY.

229

may alſo braze onions or any thing elſe with them , which you intend to garnish with ; ſerve with what fauce you think proper: thoſe

of turkeys you may lard and finiſh

as fricandeaus ; alfo in jelly or with a ſharp fauce, in matlot, fricaffee, or marinaded and fried, & c. & c. Terrine d'Ailerons aux Marons . Tureen of Pinions with Chefnuts .

BRAZE as many pinions and flices of proper ;; ſerve with pickled pork as you think proper a chefnut- cullis , with a few whole ones in it ; alſo you may ſerve them with any other cullis, or ftewed greens , fmall onions , Parmefan cheeſe, & c. &c. Alierons Conpofes.

Sham Pinions .

You muſt have moulds in the form of pinions ; take the fkins of fowls or chickens , fuch as you uſe for the broth-pot, & c.; fill the ſkins with a good forced- meat, and make them take the form of the moulds ; bake them in the oven , and ferve them with what ragout or fauce you think proper.

Crêtes en Fricaffees au Blanc. White Fricaffees of Cockfcombs . BLANCH as many combs

as will

make

a diſh ; ſtew them in broth or water, with flices of peeled lemon ; then put a piece of butter P 3

PRACTICE

THE

230

OF

butter in a ſtew-pan, and a flice of ham, a faggot, muſhrooms , and an onion ſtuck with three cloves ; foak theſe a little while, then add a little flour and fome good broth ; boil it it a little, and ftrain it ; then put the combs to it ; when ready to ferve, add a liaſon made of the yolks of three eggs and cream , a little butter, pepper, falt, and the fqueeze of a lemon ; you may add ſmall onions, hard yolks of eggs ,

or

forced-meat

may alſo ſerve with Robert-fauce,

balls';

you

& c. & c.

OF GAME IN GENERAL .

UNDER this

denomination

hended pheaſants, partridges, groufe,

black- cock,

water larks,

muir-fowl or

quails, rails ,

thruſhes,

compre→

are

land and

black-birds ,

wood-

pigeons, wood-cocks , fnipes, land and water teal, plovers, wild- ducks, hares , leverets , rabbits, & c.

OF PARTRIDGES OLD AND YOUNG.

Perdrix au Confommé. Partridges with Confomme-fauce,

TRUSS them as for boiling ; put them in a ſtew-pan with flices of veal and bacon above and below, a flice of ham, a faggot, three cloves, fliced onions and carrots ; braze on a very flow fire ; when done, fift and fkim

MODERN COOKERY.

fkim the fauce ,

and ferve upon

231

the par-

tridges. Perdreaux á la Provençale au Pontife. (See any former direction under the fame name)

Perdreaux á la Perigord. Partridges Perigord (a proper name) faſhion . STUFF them with a forced-meat made with chopt truffles, & c .; braze with broth, a little white-wine, and other proper ſeaſoning ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, add the truffles that were in the braze, and the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve with the partridges.

Perdrix grilleés aux fines Herbs. Partridges broiled with ſweet herbs. TRUSS them as

for boiling ; fplit them

down the back, and marinade them about an hour in a little oil, with pepper and falt, and all forts of ſweet herbs chopt ; then roll them up in paper, with all the

feaſoning ; broil

flowly ; when done, take off the paper, mix the herbs with a little good cullis , add the fqueeze of a lemon, and ferve with the partridges.

/P4

Perdrix

1

THE PRACTICE

232

or

Perdrix á la broche á differentes Ragouts et Sauces . Roafted Partridges with different Ragouts and Sauces , MAKE a little farcie with the livers , breadcrumbs, fcraped lard or butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms, pepper, and ſalt ; ftuff the partridges with it, and wrap them up in flices of bacon and paper, or buttered paper only, and roaft them; ferve with what ragout you think proper, Perdrix á la Madeline, Partridges Madeline-fafhion , TRUSS two or three partridges for roafting; put the livers in them, and roaft them to about three parts ; then take them off, and cut them in pieces as for a haſh ; mince the livers with a few mushrooms or truffles, and a few fhallots ; then put them in a ſtew-pan, with a little butter, a little broth, and a glaſs of white-wine ; fimmer all together about a quarter of an hour ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon : fuch as have been ſerved before will anſwer the fame purpoſe,

Perdreaux á la Dauphine. Partridges Dauphin- faſhion . BONE two or three partridges , and fill each with a farcie made of mushrooms , truffles, fweet-

MODERN COOKERY.

fweetbreads,

233

chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper

and falt, the yolks of three or four eggs, and ſcraped lard or butter ; give them a fry in butter, lard the breafts, and braze them ; when done , reduce the fauce to a glaze, and glaze the breaſts ; ferve under what fauce you think proper.

PARTRIDGES ftuffed with a good forcedmeat, fauce.

may be ferved with any ragout

or

Perdrix au citron, with lemon fauce.

Ditto glacées, larded , brazed , and glazed . Perdrix á la Polonoife, Poliſh-faſhion ; brazed in the common way, adding a glaſs or two of brandy,

and Seville-orange juice.

Per-

drix á la braze aux chaux, brazed with cabbages (favoys are the beſt for brazing) , and flices of pickled pork with good cullis-fauce. If you would have it in the nature of fourcrout, add a little vinegar : this laft is commonly ſerved in a tureen .

Old partridges

are very good, and may be ferved with any ragout, ftewed greens, or puree.

Perdreaux á la Villeroi. Partridges King's-village faſhion . BONE two or three partridges ; then ſtew about two dozen fmall onions , in broth, with a little butter, pepper and falt ; reduce the fauce till the onions are of a brown colour ; then ſtuff the partridges with them, and trufs them as whole ; give them a fry in butter, parfley,

1

THE PRACTICE OF

234

parſley, and ſhallots ; then braze them very flowly ; when done, ſkim and fift the fauce, and add a little cullis , and ferve it with the partridges. Perdreaux en Afpic. Partridges, Afpic-fauce. CHOP

herbs ,

fuch

as

fhallots ,

parſley,

tarragon, chives, garden- creffes , a little bafil, one clove of garlick, and chopt anchovies ; mix theſe with muftard , oil, tarragon , vinegar , pepper, and ſalt.

If you ferve the partridges whole, ferve the fauce cold in a fauce-boat.

If for hot, cut the partridges as for a falmix or haſh ; warm them in a little broth, then put them to the fauce, warm together without boiling : you may alſo mix it the fame manner cold, if cold ; it will be

better to

be mixed an hour or more before uſing. Perdrix á la Mandevi. Partridges Mandevi-faſhion , (the name ofthe Maker or Inventor . )

TRUSS two or three

partridges

as for

boiling; lard them with ham, bacon, and anchovies ; braze them as ufual ; when done, fkim and fift the fauce, and add a little cullis ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon. Perdreaux á la daube Sicilienne. Partridges dobed Sicily-faſhion . TRUSS the partridges as for boiling, and lard

MODERN COOKERY.

235

lard them with bacon, feafoned with fpices ; put them in a brazing-pan, with a knuckle of veal,

a piece of butter,

broth fufficient

to cover them, a gill of brandy , a faggot of ſweet herbs, two cloves of garlick, and three onions ; braze it very flowly for about four hours ; when done, ftrain the broth without fkimming, and put it with the partridges in a tureen ; ftir it now and then when it begins to jelly, mix the butter with it, and by that means it will fhew like marble.

OF

THRUSHES ,

LAPWINGS ,

PLOVERS ,

AND QUAILS .

THE above birds are commonly roafted ; but may be dreffed as pigeons, in all the different ways

but as they are not much efteem-

ed in this country, I fhall only give a few directions about them .

Pluviers á la Perigord. Plovers Perigord-faſhion. TRUSS them as chickens or pigeons for ftewing ; braze them in a good braze ; when done, fkim and fift the braze ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon . You may alfo ftuff and roaft them as partridges , & c. Thruſhes and lapwings may be dreffed in the fame manner, ſerved with a cullis-fauce. Any

further directions are

needlefs ,

as

a

good fauce will make any thing palatable and reliſhing, for change's fake.

Cailles

236

THE PRACTICE

OF

Cailles á la Flamande.

Quails Flemish-faſhion .

TRUSS

your

quails

as for

boiling ; put

them in a ſmall foup-pot with a favoy cut in quarters and tied together again , and about half a pound of pickled pork cut in flices ; boil theſe about half an hour ; then take them out, and drain the water from the favoys ; untie it, and put all together in a ſtew- pan, with a little cullis and broth, and ſtew it flowly ; when done, add a little vinegar to it, and ferve it intermixed upon the diſh.

Cailles au Laurier.

Quails with Laurel.

MAKE a farcie with the quails livers , ſcraped lard or butter, one laurel - leaf, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper and falt ; ftuff the quails with this farcie, wrap them up in flices of lard and paper, or buttered paper only, and roaft them ; put a flice of ham in a ftew-pan, and fimmer it until it begins to ftick to the pan ; then add a little cullis , a glafs of white-wine, and half a clove of garlick ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; when done, ſtrain it, and add the juice of half a lemon ; put each quail upon a laurel-leaf, and ferve the fauce upon them.

Cailles

MODERN COOKERY.

237

Cailles, Grives, Pluviers , et Vaneaux, en Matelotte au Ragout. Quails , Thruſhes , Plovers, and Lapwings , in Matlot or Ragout.

THEY are all done as chickens, and may be dreffed in all the different ways of any other birds. Des Becaffes, Becaffines, et Beaux á la broche á differentes Sauces. Of Woodcocks and Snipes of both kinds roafted with different Sauces. IT is allowed, that to roaft woodcocks or ſnipes is the beſt way of dreffing them ; but for the fake of variation required in large tables , I fhall give feveral other methods of dreffing them . Split either woodcocks or fnipes at the back ; take the infide , and mix with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, pepper and falt ; ftuff them with this farcie, and few them up ; then wrap them in buttered paper, roaſt them, and ferve them with what ragout or fauce you think proper.

Becaffines á la Ducheffe. Snipes Dutchefs -faſhion . SPLIT the ſnipes at the back ; take the infide out, which you make a farcie of, with a few chopt

capers,

pepper,

falt,

parfley, fhallots , muſhrooms, two

chopt

anchovies ,

and

a

piece of butter ; ftuff them with it ; few them up

THE

238

PRACTICE

OF

up cloſe, and braze them ; while brazing, add a little good

cullis

and

red-wine ;

when

done, fkim and fift the fauce ; if not thick enough, add a little butter and flour, and ferve with the fnipes .

Becaffines à la Provence. Snipes Provence-faſhion. Take out the infide of roaſted ſnipes , cut off the heads, and pound them with two cloves of garlick, then a little cullis , and fift it through a ſtamine ; add pepper, falt, and the juice of a Seville orange ; cut the fnipes in fillets, and warm all together without boiling ; garnish with fried bread . Becaffes et Becaffines en Ragout des Trufes ou Olives. Woodcocks or Snipes Ragout with Truffles or Olives.

BRAZE them as uſual , with as many truffles

as

birds,

intermixed together on the

diſh, and ſerve with a ragout of truffles : the fame with olives : alfo with cullis of woodcocks ; the infide and trimmings being pounded, and ſtewed in cullis, a little whitewine, a few muſhrooms, and other proper ſeaſonings ;

the birds

the cullis upon them,

being brazed,

ferve

which ought to be

pretty thick. Salmi des Becaffes. Woodcock-hafhie. CUT the legs and breafts of cold roaſted wood1

MODERN COOKERY.

239

woodcocks ; pound the bones and the infide ; ' boil them with a little cullis , a gill of redwine, chopt fhallots, pepper and falt ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; then ſtrain it, and add a little butter and bread- crumbs ; put the fnipes or woodcocks to it ; warm without boiling ; garnish the diſh with fried bread.

OF WOOD - PIGEONS.

THE Wood- pigeons perch upon trees, contrary to all other kinds ; the flesh is good,

although dry ; the

ones

young

very are

diſtinguiſhed by the fhortness of their claws, as they grow longer with age : They are commonly eat roaſted ; but may be dreffed in all the different ways of other pigeons. Ramereaux à l'Allemande. Wood- pigeons German -faſhion . LARD them through and through,

and

boil them with favoys, a pound of pickled pork cut in flices , four cloves, whole pepper and falt, a little nutmeg, and broth ; when done, the

drain them

favoys to

get

from fat, it out ;

and

ſqueeze

intermix each

fort on the diſh, and ſerve with a good cullisfauce with a little butter in it .

Ramereaux aux fenouil. Wood-pigeons with Fennel-fauce. BOIL a little fennel ; chop it,

and mix a little

240

THE

PRACTICE

OF

little of it with the livers ; alfo chop a piece of butter, two yolks of eggs, pepper and falt ; ftuff the pigeons with this farcie ; roaſt them, wrap them in buttered paper ;

mix

the chopt fennel with fome good cullis ,

a

little good butter,

and the juice of half a lemon, and ferve upon the pigeons. 1 Lievre en Terrine à la daube. Tureen of Hare dobed.

CUT a hare in fix pieces ; bone and lard them with bacon, feafoned with spices, powder of laurel, chopt parfley, thyme, fhallots, and one clove of garlick ; braze it with flices of lard, the bones , a little broth, as much of the blood as you can fave, a glaſs of brandy, and a quarter of a pound of good butter ; ftop the pan well, and ſtew it on a very flow fire, or in the oven , about four hours ; then take out the bones, put the hare in a tureen, and the flices of bacon upon it ; fift the fauce, and put it in the tureen ; let it cool before ufing : it ought to be like a pie.

Lievre au Sang.

Hare with its own blood.

CUT a hare in pieces, and lard them ; ſave the blood, and put the pieces in a ſtew-pan with its liver, a piece of butter, a faggot, muſhrooms, four cloves, two laurel-leaves , and a flice of ham ; foak it a while , then add a little flour, a gill of red-wine and broth ; when the liver is done, take it out, and

pound

MODERN COOKERY.

241

pound it ; mix it with the blood and ſome of the fauce, and ſtrain it ; reduce the fauce quite´ thick, and add pepper and falt ; take out the hare ; fift the fauce and mix it with the blood and liver, and ferve all together. Roulades de Lievre.

Collared Hare,

BONE a hare, and lard it with thick lardons ; ſeaſoned with fpices and falt ;

put a

good forced- meat in it, or not ; roll it up very tight and tie it well ; braze it with flices ofveal, halfa pint ofwhite-wine , and a pint of broth ; cover it over with flices of bacon : you may alfo put fuch meat and other ſeaſoning to make a jelly of the braze after, and ſerve the hare cold with it, either whole or fiiced . Gateau de Lievre.

Hare-cake.

CHOP the meat of a hare and of a rabbit, halfa leg of mutton, three pounds fillet of veal or freſh pork, and two pounds beef-fuet ; ſeaſon theſe with ſalt and fpices, chopt parſley, ſhallots, half a pound of piftachio- nuts peeled, about a pound of raw ham cut in dices, half a pound of truffles or muſhrooms, alfo cut in dices , eight yolks of eggs , and a gill of brandy ; garniſh a ſtew-pan with flices of bacon, and put your preparation in it cloſe, and cover it over with flices of bacon ; ftop the pan all round with

A a coarſe paſte, and bake it near four hours ; let it cool in the fame pan ; then turn over gently, and ſcrape the bacon quite off, or leave alittle of it

242

THE PRACTICE

OF

it to garnish with any forts of colours , and make it more even and of a better form ; you may alſo cover it with butter or hogslard , and garniſh according to fancy. Cotelettes de Levreau ,

Cutlets of Leveret.

CUT the fillets pretty large , and take out as many ribs as you make cutlets , ftick one rib in each ; lay them in the difh you intend for table, (if plate) ; put a little broth to it, with all forts of fweet herbs, chopt muſhrooms, pepper, falt, and a little butter ; ftew between two diſhes flowly, turning the fillets now and then ; reduce the liquid till almoſt dry ; when done, ferve with a cullis -fauce, or make a fauce with the bones , cullis , and proper ſeaſoning, which will be better. The remains of a roafted hare may alſo be done in the fame manner,

cutting the

meat in

fillets, and making a fauce with the bones brazed, a little broth and cullis , chopt fhallots, a few tarragon-leaves, and a little butter rolled in flour ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of half a lemon. Lievre en Civet.

Hare ftewed.

CUT a hare in pieces, which you may lard or not as you pleaſe ; put it in a few-pan with a pint of water, and let it ftew fome time ; if the hare is large, add a bottle of red -wine, two dozen of ſmall onions firft blanched, a few whole muſhrooms , whole pepper, four cloves, and

MODERN COOKERY.

243

and a few flices of ham ; let it ftew until the liquid is reduced to half, then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, and make the fauce pretty thick ; when you ferve, garniſh with fried bread. Levreau au Chevreau . Leveret, Kid-faſhion.

LARD a large leveret ; marinade it about three hours in a warm marinade made of water, falt,

vinegar, butter,

chopt parfley,

flour,

fhallots,

pepper and

fliced

onions,

thyme, laurel, bafil, lemon-peel, and cloves ; then roaſt it, baſting with ſome of the marinade ; fift the remainder, mix it with a little cullis, and ferve it in a fauce-boat.

Lievre à la Polonoife .

Hare Poliſh - faſhion .

CUT a hare in pieces ; fave the blood ; lard it coarſely ; give it a few turns over the fire, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a faggot, a little thyme, half a clove of garlick, three cloves , pepper and

fält ; then add a

pint of red-wine to it, a little broth,

and a

ſpoonful of vinegar ; when it is almoſt done, add the blood and liver pounded ; boil it a little together ; when done, add a ſpoonful of fmall capers whole , and ſcalded olives ſtoned ; ſerve all together. Lievre en Haricot.

Haricot of Hare.

CUT a hare in pieces, and give it a fry in a brown made of flour and butter ; then add half Q2

244

THE

half a

pint

PRACTICE OF of white-wine,

a fpoonful of

vinegar, broth and gravy, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs,

three

fhallots ,

one

clove of garlick, three cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; when half done , put blanched turnips to it, cut in what fhape you pleaſe ; when the hare is done, take out the faggot, and as much of the ſpices as you can ; fkim it well, and ferve the hare covered with the turnips ; garnish with fried bread .

Levreau en Crepine.

Leveret in Caul.

IT is done after the fame manner as all fuch directions ; boned, the meat filled with a good forced-meat, and done in the oven ; ſerve with a reliſhing ſauce .

Filets de Levreau aux Legumes . Fillets of Hare with ftewed Greens . CUT the remainder of a roafted hare in fillets ; warm it upon the difh you intend for table, or in a ſtew-pan, with a little broth, a little vinegar and falt; warm , without boiling ; when ready to ferve, pour the fauce out, and ferve the hare with a ragout of cucumbers, endives, celery, &c. & c. Filets de Levreau aux Anchois. Fillets of Leveret with Anchovies . TAKE out the fillets of one or two leverets ; lard them with fillets or anchovies , firft foaked in water ; put them in

a few-pan with a

piece

MODERN COOKERY.

245

piece of butter and chopt fhallots ; ſtew them about half an hour ; then put the fillets on the diſh you intend for table ; put a little cullis in the ſtew-pan, a fpoonful of verjuice, and a little butter rolled in flour ; let it boil until it become pretty thick, and ſerve upon the fillets. The remainder of the leverets will ferve to make either a pie or a civet . Levreau á la minute.

Leveret done in a hurry. CUT the leveret in middling pieces ; boil the liver, pound it, and put all together in a ftew- pan, with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , mushrooms, half a clove of garlick, pepper and falt ; cover it cloſe, turn it every now and then , it will only require about a quarter of an hour to do : if the leveret be long kept, then put the meat upon the

diſh you intend for table, put a little broth and vinegar to the fauce to gather the

feaſoning, and ferve upon the hare ; the fauce ought to be pretty thick.

- OF RAGOUTS , COLLOPS , OR FRIES .

Ragout des Foies gras.

BLANCH them

in

Ragout of fat Livers.

boiling

water ;

then

foak them about a quarter of an hour, with a piece of butter, a flice of ham, a faggot, muſhrooms , half a clove ofgarlick, and a little bafil ; then add a little broth and cullis ; ſtew on Q3

THE

246

PRACTICE

OF

on a flow fire ; fkim the fat well off ;

reduce

the fauce pretty thick ; take out the faggot and ham ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon, pepper and ſalt to taſte .

Ragout de Salpicon ( á l'Arlequine. ) Ragout of various colours . CUT a flice of well-foaked ham in dices, likewiſe one carrot, a few muſhrooms , and one truffle cut in dices ; put thefe in a few-pan with a little butter, a little cullis and gravy, and a glass of white-wine ; ftew them a little while ;

then

add

chopt breafts

of

roaſted

poultries , girkins, fcalded parfley, two anchovies firſt foaked in water, a little pepper and ſalt, and the ſqueeze of a lemon ; ſerve this ragout with what kink of meat you pleaſe.

Ragout des Crêtes,

Ragout of Cockſcombs ,

BLANCH the combs in boiling water ; then ſtew them in broth, with two or three flices of peeled lemon ; put a little butter in a ſtewpan,

with a little cullis and broth, a few

chopt muſhrooms, and a faggot ; ftew this on a flow fire until it is done ; take out the faggot ; ſkim the fauce very well , and reduce it pretty thick ; then add the combs to it ; feafon it with pepper , falt, and the ſqueeze of a lemon ; if you would have them white, make a liaſon with yolks of eggs and cream , without cullis or gravy .

Ragout

MODERN COOKERY.

Ragout de Jambon.

247

Ragout of Ham.

CUT fix or eight flices of ham of equal bignefs ; if an old ham, foak the flices in water ; then fimmer them on a flow fire until they are done ; take them out, and put a little cullis , gravy, and

in the ftew-pan

half a ſpoonful of vinegar ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; then put the flices of ham to it, warm without boiling ; ferve this upon any forts of meat : if you would uſe this by itſelf for a fecond- courſe diſh, put the flices of ham upon flices of bread ofthe fame bignefs fried in butter, them .

and the fauce over

Ragout de Ris de Veau. Ragout of Calves Sweetbreads . BLANCH the fweetbreads ; cut each in two or three

pieces ;

put them in a ſtew-pan,

with a piece of butter, a few muſhrooms, and a faggot ; foak this together a little, then add a little cullis and gravy ; flew it on a flow fire, fkim it well, reduce it to a proper confiftence, and feafon with pepper and falt ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Ragout mêlé des Trufes et des Huitres . Ragout of Truffles and Oyſters . BLANCH three or four dozen of oyſters in their Q4

1

THE

PRACTICE

OF

248 their own liquor ; then put a little butter in a

ftew-pan,

with

chopt

muſhrooms ,

par-

fley, and fhallots, then the oysters and chopt truffles ;

flew

all

together

about

a

quar-

ter of an hour, the ſtew-pan being well ſtopped ; then take out the oysters and truffles , and add a little gravy and cullis , a glaſs of white-wine, pepper, and falt ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence, then put the oysters and truffles to the fauce, and warm without boiling ; ferve for

a fecond - courſe diſh, or

with any firft-courſe entrée. Ragout des Ecreviffes .

Ragout of Craw- fish ,

MAKE a little cullis with a few flices of veal , a flice of ham , fliced onions and carrots, a faggot of parfley, fhallots , and a bay- leaf; foak it until it catch at bottom ; then add as much

broth as you think proper ; ftew it

about

an

hour,

then fkim and

ftrain it ;

pound the fhells of half a hundred of crawfish very fine,

mix this with the cullis , re-

duce it pretty thick, and boil the tails in this cullis ; you may ferve this as a fecond- courfe difh, or with a firſt- courſe made diſh,

Ragout des Laitances . Ragout of Carp- roes. SOAK flices of veal and ham about half an hour, on a flow fire ; then add a little butter to it, a few mushrooms, three cloves, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , a little veal-cullis and gravy, and a glafs of white-wine; ftew it

MODERN COOKERY.

249

it until the veal is done, then take out the veal and ham ; blanch the roes in boiling water, put them to this cullis , and ftew them about half an hour ; ſkim it well, it ought to be as thick as good cream ; ſeaſon with pepper and falt ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon : ifyou would have it meager, ufe fifh for cullis inftead of veal and ham .

Ragout des Moules.

Ragout of Muſcles.

WASH the fand very well off the ſhells , and put them on the fire without water ; take them out of the fhells with care one by one ; take out the little crabs you may find, as muſcles are ſeldom without them ; keep their liquor, and foak a flice of ham on the fire, with a few muſhrooms and a faggot ; then add a little cullis and fome of their own liquor ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; ftrain it , and put the muſcles to it warm without boiling ; add a little fcalded parfley chopt : you may alſo dress white fauce.

them

with

fifh- cullis ,

or a

Ragout d'Huitres de plufieurs façons. Ragout of Oyſters of different fashions .

BLANCH four dozen of large oysters in their own liquor ; if you would have them bearded, you muſt have more oysters ; ſtrain the liquor ; put the oysters by ; chop a few truffles, mushrooms, fhallots, and parſley ; put thefe

250

THE

PRACTICE

OF

theſe in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, a little cullis , fome of the oyster- liquor, and a

little white-wine ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence. then put the oysters to it, to warm without boiling : you may alſo dreſs them in a plainer way, by making the fauce with a piece of butter rolled in flour , a little cullis, and ſome of the liquor ; or with a white ſauce and chopt parſley, as a fricaffée.

Ragout des Champignons. Ragout of Muſhrooms . PEEL the muſhrooms, and cut each in two ; foak a ſlice of ham, then put the muſhrooms to it, with a little butter, a little cullis and gravy, a faggot, and three cloves ; ſtew this together flowly near an hour ; reduce the fauce pretty thick ; take out the ham and faggot ; kim it well, and feafon with pepper, falt, and the ſqueeze ofa lemon.

This is prepared

to ſerve with meat : but if you would have them to ſerve alone, put neither cullis

nor

gravy, but make a liafon with yolks of eggs and cream , and ſerve upon a piece of fried bread, or garnish the diſh with fried bread cut in fome pretty ſhape.

The French have ano-

ther kind which they call Mauffeorns, which is much like the muſhrooms, and are dreffed much the fame way when freſh ; and are alfo dried and reduced to powder, to mix with other ſpices, to feafon larding bacon for

brazing

MODERN COOKERY.

251

brazing pieces, &c. They have the fame flavour as all ſpices when reduced to powder.

1 Ragout des Morilles . GREAT

Ragout of Morels .

care muſt be taken

in waſhing

them, as the ſand is very apt to ſtick to them ; when well cleaned and drained, put them in a ftew-pan with a piece of butter, a faggot, a little cullis and gravy ; when done, take out the faggot, and feaſon with pepper and falt you may alfo drefs them as a fricaffee ; garniſh the dish with fried bread , cut in what different ſhapes you pleaſe.

Ragout des petites Oeufs et Rognons de Coq. Ragout of fmall Eggs and Cocks-kidneys. SOAK a ſmall flice of ham a little ; then add a little butter to it, chopt parſley, ſhallots, mushrooms , three cloves, a little cullis, gravy, and a little white-wine ; ftew this about half an hour ; blanch the eggs and kidneys in warm water ; peel the fkins off the eggs, and drain them well ; take out the ham and faggot, and add the eggs and kidneys, with pepper and falt ; reduce the fauce pretty thick

if you would have it white,

make a liafon with the yolks of eggs and cream , with gravy or cullis , only broth to ftew it at firſt in .

a little

Ragou

THE

PRACTICE OF

252

Ragout des Concombres.

Ragout of Cucumbers .

PEEL the cucumbers, cut each in four, and cut out the hearts ; marinade them with two fpoonfuls of vinegar,

a fliced onion, three

cloves, and a little falt ; ftir them now and then ; when they have thrown their water, ſqueeze them in a cloth, and foak them on the fire with a little butter and a flice of ham till they begin to take colour ; then add a little flour, broth, and gravy ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence ; take out the ham, and ferve with poached eggs, or with what meat you pleaſe, or alone : when they are for fauce, cut them in ſmaller pieces, and follow the reft of the direction .

Ragout des petits Pois. Ragout of green Peaſe. THEY ought to be young and freſh fhelled; put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs , one onion ftuck with two cloves ; foak them on a flow fire a little ; then add a little flour and gravy ; let them ftew flowly till done ; feafon with falt, and ferve with what meat you pleaſe, or alone.

Ragout des Pois un autre façon. Ragout of Peaſe another faſhion . YOUR peaſe being ſhelled, put a piece of butter

MODERN COOKERY.

253

butter in a ſtew-pan; when hot, add fome chopt

onions ;

let

them

fimmer a little ;

then put in your peaſe, and give them a few toffes ; then add three or four cabbagelettuces cut ſmall , and give them a few toffes more ; then add a little flour, and fome good broth ; let them flew flowly about an hour ; have ready a liafon made with the yolks of three or four eggs and cream ; ' when ready to ferve, feaſon with falt, and add your liafon, ftirring it until it be thickened like a fricaffee ; fee that they be well ſeaſoned , and ſerve them quite hot.

N. B. The French fometimes add a ſpoon-ful of fugar to them . Ragout des Trufes .

Ragout of Truffles .

CUT the truffles in pretty thick flices ; ftew them in good broth and a little white - wine, with a faggot of parfley and

fweet herbs ;

when done, take out the faggot , and add a little cullis, pepper, and falt ; reduce the fauce to a good conſiſtence, and ferve with what you pleaſe.

If you would have them for a difh,

mix fome muſhrooms with them, and garniſh the diſh with fried bread .

Ragout d'Afperge en petits Pois. Ragout of Afparagus as green Peaſe. BREAK the afparagus off, then tie them up in fmall bunches, and cut them the bigneſs of green peaſe, half-boil them in water, then

254

THE PRACTICE OF

then drain them, and put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter , give them a few toffes ; then add a little flour, and give them a few toffes more ; then add a little broth, a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs , and an onion ftuck with two cloves : make a liaſon with two yolks of eggs and a little broth, if you deſign it to garniſh a firſt- courſe diſh ; if for alone in the fecond-courſe, make the liaſon with

cream

inftead of broth , a little falt and ſugar.

Ragout des petits Oignons. Ragout of fmall Onions. BLANCH what quantity of fmall onions you think proper; braze them with broth, a flice of bacon, a faggot of fweet herbs, and falt ; then drain them, and ftew them a little in good cullis, to garniſh any kind of meat, or ferve them alone.

Ragout des Racines.

Ragout of Roots.

CUT parfnips and carrots the length of a finger, and much the fame bignefs ; half- boil them in water ; then put them in a ſtew- pan, with dices of ham, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper and falt, a little broth , and white-wine ; let them ſtew flowly until the fauce is pretty thick ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon : if for meager, inftead of ham , uſe muſhrooms , and make a liafon with yolks of eggs, and meager-broth . Celery is done much the fame, only cut ſmaller. Ragout

/

MODERN COOKERY.

Ragout des Navets.

255

Ragout of Turnips.

CUT them in what ſhape you pleaſe, and blanch them in boiling water ; then finiſh them in cullis ,

broth , pepper and

falt : if

you would have them of a brown colour, fry them in butter firft after they are blanched : this is alfo to garniſh other things with ; the difh is commonly called by the name of the ragout.

Ragout de Chicorée . Ragout of Endives or any forts.

BLANCH them well in boiling water, to take the bitteriſh taſte out ; then ſtew them in good cullis, with one onion ftuck with two cloves, a few drops of vinegar, pepper and when done, take out the onion, and ſerve under what kind of meat you pleaſe.

falt ;

If you would have it for meager, ſtew them in fish-broth, and thicken the fauce with a liafon made of yolks of eggs , and meagerbroth or cream .

Ragout d'Ofeille.

Ragout of Sorrel .

BLANCH it in boiling water, with a few lettuces and a little chervil ; then mince all together ; put it in a ſtew-pan, with a few chopt muſhrooms, of ham,

a few green fhallots , a flice a little 1 cullis, pepper, and falt ;

ftew it flowly till done ; take out the ham ; reduce it quite thick, and ferve it with what fort

256

THE

PRACTICE

OF

fort of meat you pleaſe. This is moſtly done to ferve with fricandeau : if the forrel is too ſharp, you may mix it with ſpinage, or a little fugar to take off the fharpneſs : few people uſe chervil with it, as the flavour is very ftrong, although very agreeable when uſed with moderation .

Ragout d'Epinars.

Ragout of Spinages.

THEY may be done as the former, and ferved with any fort of meat, or alone, with poached eggs.

or

Parfley is very little uſed

as a diſh in this country ; but may be dreſſed in the fame manner as the former, and is very good to mix with falad .

" Des Epinards á1 la Creme. Spinage dreffed with Cream. BOIL your fpinage, then fqueeze the water well from it, mince it very fine, and put it in a ſtew- pan with a piece of butter, a little flour, nutmeg, and falt ; keep it ftirring over the fire a little with a wooden spoon , then add as much good cream as will make it of a proper confiftence ; when done, ferve it upon the dish you intend for table, and garnish it with fried bread.

Ragout des Cardons d'Espagne. Ragout of Spaniſh Cardoons . TAKE the whiteft, thick, and found cardoons ; cut them about the length of a finger; blanch

257

MODERN COOKERY.

blanch them in boiling water, and peel off the hard part all round ; if large,

cut them in

quarters , or in halves ; braze them with broth, beef- fuet, a little butter rolled in flour , and three or four flices of peeled lemon ; cover them over with flices of bacon ; when done, drain them , and wipe them clean with a cloth , then put them in a well-feafoned cullis ; ftew them on a flow fire until they have taken the tafte of the cullis, and reduced to a middling confiftence ; when done, add the ſqueeze of a lemon,

and a little nutmeg to make the f

fauce reliſhing ;

ferve this to

garniſh

any

thing, or alone .

Ragout des Cerneaux . Ragout of green Walnuts . BLANCH them in boiling water for fome time, with a little butter, two or three flices of peeled lemon, and falt ; drain them , and put them in a fauce made of cullis, a little butter, pepper, falt, and nutmeg ; when ready to ſerve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Ragout de Choux. Ragout of Cabbages. BLANCH the cabbages (favoys are the beſt) ; then drain the water well from them ; cut them in quarters, and tie them together with pack-thread ; braze them in a good braze ; when done, ferve with a good cullis -fauce.

R

Ragout

258

THE PRACTICE OF

Ragout des Haricots verd. Ragout of young French Beans. If large, cut them; if fmall, break them in two ; boil them in water with a little falt ; then put them in a ftew-pan with a little cullis and gravy, a flice of ham, a faggot, one onion ftuck with two cloves, and one fhallot chopt ; reduce the fauce pretty thick ; take out the ham and faggot, uſe them either to garniſh a firſt- courſe diſh, or alone in the fecond-courfe ; you may alfo dress them with a white fauce ; when ready to ſerve, add the juice of a lemon . N. B. Although a particular cullis is directed for each ragout, it is not abfolutely neceffary, as a good cullis is one of the principal articles in cookery ; it is always made where made difhes are wanted , and may ferve for all theſe ragouts, with a little attention to what is dreffing ;

as

fome forts

require 1 to be more reliſhing

of things

than

others ,

the adding of fweet herbs, juice of lemon , or verjuice, is fufficient to make the difference of tafte to each particular :

the profeſſed cook

knows it; fo will the learner with attention. Riffoles á la Bechamel. 1

White Collops.

By Riffole is meant what is fried brown ; and comprehends all kinds of meat cut in thin flices for collops , forced -meat balls fried , either to ferve alone, or to mix with any thing elfe.

MODERN

COOKERÝ.

259

elfe. A brown made of flour and butter, is called a riffole, viz. browning ; but as there are different ways of this , as in many other things , it is neceffary to give fome particular direction about it : Soak a flice or two of ham, with a little butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , and half a laurel-leaf; fimmer this on a flow fire about a quarter of an hour ; then add a little flour , cullis, cream , and a little pepper ; reduce it quite thick, then ftrain it through a fieve ; cut breafts of roafted poultries in fmall bits ; put it in the fauce with one or two yolks of eggs ; give it a few boilings together, and let it cool ;

cut fmall pieces of

thin paſte, in what ſhape you pleaſe ; put a little of this ragout between each two pieces, pinch them round to fecure the fauce, and fry them of a fine colour.

Riffoles á la Choify. Rifoles Choify-faſhion . BOIL calves-udder very tender in the ſtockpot, and let it cool ; then cut it in thin flices ; then cut thin flices of bacon, and put a flice of bacon and a flice of udder upon each other ; lay a reliſhing forced-meat upon this,

and

roll it up, and fo on till you have done ; dip them in a batter made of flour, a little falt, oil , and white-wine ; fry as the former ; you may ferve a little fauce under . N. B. The above name, as well as many others, is either after the name of a nobleman, or the inventor.

R 2

Riffole's

260

THE PRACTICE OF

Riffoles des Palais de Boeuf.

Of Beef.

TAKE one or two brazed palates , and cut them about the bignefs of a crown ; take pieces of puff-pafte, lay a little forced- meat upon the pafte, then the palates, and forced- meat again ; roll them up, and fry as the former : obſerve, that your forced-meat is made with meat either roafted

or boiled

remnant of roafted fowls,

before ;

any

chickens, or veal,

will do, being properly ſeaſoned .

Riffoles des Gibier.

Of Game.

MINCE the remainder of any roaſted game, and chop the bones ; put them in a ſtew-pan, with a little cullis and white-wine, a faggot of ſweet herbs, and two fhallots ; ſtew fome time, then ſtrain it, and put it on the fire again to bring it to a thick fauce ; then put the minced meat to it, with the yolk of a raw egg well beat.

Riffoles des differentes Farcies. Of different Forced-meats .

MAKE

a forced-meat with

any fort of

roafted or boiled meat, as veal, lamb, poultries, fat livers , game, & c. mince it very fine with calves-udder, a little fuet, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms , truffles, fweet herbs, pepper and falt ; mix with yolks of eggs ; make it in little balls, or finiſh in paſte as above directed. Riffoles

MODERN COOKERY .

·Riffoles á la Prefidente.

261 ,

Prefident-faſhion .

MINCE a roafted veal- kidney with a little of its own fat, and a little raſped Parmeſancheeſe ; cut pieces of toafted bread in what ſhape you pleaſe, and lay as forced-meat upon

each

much of the

piece as you

can ;

fmooth it with a knife dipt in whites of eggs ; ftrewbread-crumbs over them , and bake a little in the oven, or before the fire.

Riffoles á la Provençale.

Provence-faſhion ,

MAKE a forced- meat with roafted poultry, fcraped lard or butter, chopt fhallots , three chopt anchovies , a few chopt capers, and a little powder of bafil ; mix it with four yolks of eggs , and finiſh as uſual .

OF MEAGER GLAZES AND BRAZES. 1 FOR a braze, according to the largeneſs of the fiſh or piece, put a piece of butter in a brazing-pan, with meager-broth , white- wine, carrots, parfnips , celery, onions , a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, two laurel - leaves , whole pepper and falt, regulating one quantity by the other : all fish brazes are done after the ſame manner.

For glazes , put fome fiſh-

broth in a ftew-pan , with fiſh-bones, and any fragments, being all well washed ; boil this a good fliced

while

with a faggot of ſweet herbs,

carrots,

parfnips, R 3

and

onions ;

then ftrain

262

THE PRACTICE OF

ftrain it through a lawn-fieve,

and

reduce

it to a caramel, to glaze any forts of fiſh . Farcie de Poiffon,

Fish Forced-meat.

BOIL bread-crumbs in cream or milk until

it is quite thick, then let it cool ; chop any fort of fish very fine, with chopt parfley, fhallots, pepper and falt ; mix it with the bread- crumbs and cream ; pound all together with a little butter, muſhrooms, and yolks of eggs ; it will ferve to ftuff any kind of fish, make riffoles as before dircted .

or to

Farcie maigrefans Poiffon. Meager Forced-meat without Fiſh. CHOP fome forrel, and put it in a ſtew-pan with a little butter, cream, and bread- crumbs ; boil it till it is quite thick ; let it cool, then pound it with chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms, four hard yolks of eggs, pepper, falt, nutmeg, a little butter, and the yolks of three or four raw eggs ; and uſe it to what you pleaſe.

OF

CAR P.

Carpe á la Bourgogne. Carp ftewed with Red- wine.

MAKE a ftuffing with butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper and falt ; ftuff the carp with it ; put it in a pan much of its bignefs, with

MODERN COOKERY.

263

with a little broth, a bottle of port- wine or Burgundy, a

faggot of ſweet

onions fliced , one

carrot,

herbs , three

parfley- roots fli-

ced, whole pepper, falt, and nutmeg ; boil it over a good fire ; when done, drain the carp ; ftrain the fauce without ſkimming, reduce it pretty thick, and ferve upon the carp ; garnish with fried bread .

Carpe á la Gendarme .

Carp Military-faſhion .

CHOP a handful of forrel ; ftew it

with

butter, bread-crumbs, chopt parfley, fhallots, and cream ; let it be thick ; when done, mix three hard yolks

of eggs chopt and three

raw, pepper and falt ; ftuff the carp with it ; few it up cloſe, and marinade it about an hour in oil, falt, whole pepper, parſley, ſhallots, one clove of garlick, a little bafil , thyme, and laurel ; then broil it, bafting with the marinade, and make

a fauce with

butter and

chopt muſhrooms ; ftew this about a quarter of an hour,

then add a little

parfley, ſhallots , capers, two

flour, chopt or three an-

chovies, butter and broth fufficient to make fauce enough ; boil all together a little ; when ready to ferve, add a little vinegar or the juice of half a lemon, and ferve it under the fish.

Carpe á la Financiere. Carp Financier-faſhon . CLEAN your carp properly ; open it on the R 4 fide,

264 fide, the

THE PRACTICE OF and gut gall ;

it, taking care not to break

fkin the whole fide,

and

lard

it finely ; make a ragout fufficient to fill it, with fat livers , fweetbreads, mushrooms , and truffles ;

ſeaſon

this

properly, and

ſtew it

with a little cullis , gravy, a gill of whitewine, and a little butter ; reduce it to the confiftence of a thick ragout ; let it cool, and ftuff the carp with it, and few it faft up ; braze it with flices of veal, ham, and bacon, fliced carrots, onions , a faggot of parſley, green fhallots, a little thyme and laurel, whole pepper, and falt ; foak it fome time on a flow fire ; then put to it broth and whitewine, in equal quantities, fufficient to cover the whole ; braze very flowly; when done, drain the carp, glaze the larded fide with vealglaze, then lay it on the diſh you intend for table, and garnish it with what you pleaſe, as fmall partridges , pigeons glazed, whites of fowls, cockfcombs , truffles , or craw-fifh ; ferve with a Spanish- fauce, which you will pour upon the pieces that are not glazed , or fome of its fauce properly reduced and ſeaſoned . Carpe á l'Etuvée.

Carp ftewed .

MAKE a brown with flour and butter ; then add half broth and red-wine, according to the bigness of the fifh, which you cut in large pieces, to put to the fauce, with two dozen fmall onions firft blanched, a faggot of fweet herbs,

three

cloves,

mushrooms,2

pepper,

MODERN COOKERY.

265

pepper, and falt ; ftew on a flow fire until the fauce is reduced to a proper confiftence ; take out the faggot, add two chopt anchovies and a few whole capers, and garnish fried bread .

with

Etuveé des Carpe á la Chartreufe. Carp ftewed Chartreufe-faſhion , (an order of Friars , who eat no meat, and are famous for dreffing Fish and Greens.) SAVE the blood of the carp ; gut and clean them well,

waſh the infide with red - wine ,

which you alſo keep ; garnish the bottom of a ftew-pan with fliced onions, parſnips , carrots , two fhallots, one clove of garlick, a little parſley, and three cloves ; put the carp upon this, with whole pepper and falt , a piece of butter, the blood and wine fufficient to cover it, with a little water ; ftew it on a flow fire ; when the fifh is done, ftrain the fauce, and reduce it to a proper confiftence ; add a little butter and flour mixed with chopt anchovies and capers , and ferve upon the fish.

Carpe en Matelotte. Matlot of Carp . CUT the carp in large pieces , and any other kind of freſh- water fish, and make a brown with flour and butter ; add half broth and half red-wine , two dozen finall onions firft blanched, fome whole mushrooms, and a faggot offweet herbs ; ſtewtheſe together, until the onions are almoſt done ; then put the fiſh to

1

266

THE PRACTICE OF

to it, with pepper, falt, three cloves , and a little nutmeg ; ftew it on a fmart fire, it will take about half an hour, the fauce muſt be much reduced ; add two chopt anchovies, and garnish with fried bread.

Carpe frite.

Carp fried .

SPLIT a carp at the back ; take out the back-bone ; marinade it near two hours with a little water and vinegar, parfley, fhallots , one clove of garlick, thyme, and laurel- leaves , four cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; then dry it with a cloth , and flour it ; fry it on a ſmart fire, and garnish with fried parſley. Matelotte á la Mariniere. Matlot of Carp, Sailor-faſhion . HALF -boil three dozen fmall onions , and put them in a ftew-pan or pot, with a carp cut in pieces , and other forts of fiſh the ſame ; fave the blood, which you add to the fiſh, with as much red-wine as covers the whole, a

piece of butter, a piece

of lemon- peel,

three laurel-leaves, pepper, and falt ; ftew on a ſmart fire, ftirring it a little for fear it ſhould catch at bottom ; when done, take out the lemon- peel, and ſerve it upon the diſh without form .

Carpe

267

MODERN COOKERY.

Carpe á la Jacobine. Carp Jacobin-faſhion , (an order of Friars fo called .) PUT two dozen of ſmall onions blanched in a ftew-pan, with a few ſliced truffles , a piece of butter, and a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs ; fimmer this on a flow fire, until it catches a little ;

then add three half- pints of white-

wine, then put a carp to it cut in pieces, with a little broth, pepper, and falt ; fauce ;

when ready to ſerve,

reduce the

add

a liafon

made of three yolks of eggs and cream and the juice of half a lemon,

Carpe aux fines Herbes . Carp dreffed with ſweet Herbs. CUT a carp in pieces ; put it in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, chopt parfley, fhallots, mushrooms, a very little garlick, fome tarragon,

a little

powder of

bafil, a pint of white-wine, pepper, falt, and a little gravy ; ftew on a fmart fire, and reduce the fauce pretty thick ; garnish with fried bread.

Carpe farcie.

Carp ftuffed ..

CLEAN and trim your carp ; take up the fkin , which you will do eaſily, by beginning at the belly , running the finger betwixt, to the head, where the ſkin muft hold, as alfo at the tail ; cut out all the large bones , chop the

268

THE PRACTICE OF

the fiſh, and mix it with bread-crumbs , chopt mushrooms, a little bafil,

parſley, fhallots,

and a piece of butter ; you may alſo mix it with other kind of fifh ; feafoń with pepper and falt, and add the yolks of four eggs ; ſtuff the carp with this forced - meat, and few it up; butter a diſh, and lay the carp upon it ; bafte with butter, then ftrew it over with breadcrumbs, and bake it in the oven ; bafte it now and then with butter, to hinder it from taking too much colour ;

ferve with what

fauce you pleaſe, or with a ragout of roes , which you will find in Ragout- articles.

Carpe á la Dauphine. Carp Dauphin- faſhion . MAKE a ragout of ſweetbreads , fat livers, and truffles ; make it pretty thick ; open a carp on the fide, ftuff it with this ragout, and few it up ; lay it in a ſtew- pan upon the fide that has not been opened , upon flices of ham and veal, with whole pepper, a little falt, and a piece of butter ; cover it over with thin flices ofbacon and a faggot of fweet herbs ; foak it about a quarter of an hour ; then add a little champaign ; ftew on a flow fire till done ; fift and ſkim the fauce ; add fome cullis ; reduce it to a proper confiftence, and ſerve it upon the fifh.

Carpe

MODERN COOKERY.

Carpe au Monarque.

269

Carp Monarch- fashion .

GUT a carp on the fide ; fill it with a ragout of fmall onions, well -feaſoned ; few it up, and take up the fkin of the other fide ; lard it as a fricandeau ; ftew it with broth and white-wine ; when done, drain it , and glaze the larded fide ; ferve upon a ragout of fweetbreads , cockfcombs , fat livers, ſmall eggs , and the roes .

Carpe á la Polonoiſe.

Carp Poliſh - faſhion .

CUT a carp in pieces , ſplit the head in two, and put it in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, fliced carrots, onions, fhallots, parfley, thyme, two

laurel- leaves, whole pepper, and ſalt ;

foak it a little while, then add a pint of beer and a gill ofbrandy ; when done, fift the ſauce, and add a piece of butter rolled in flour ; reduce the fauce pretty thick ; when ready to ſerve, add the juice of a Seville orange, and ferve it upon the fiſh.

Carpe á la broche.

Carp roaſted .

STUFF a carp with a forced-meat of butter, bread-crumbs , chopt parfley, green fhallots, capers, anchovies , fpices, and very little falt ; tie it on a lark-fpit, cover it with buttered paper, and bafte it with butter, whitewine, one clove of garlick, and two laurelleaves , boiled together ;

when ready, ferve

with what ragout or fauce you pleaſe.

Carpe

270

THE PRACTICE OF

Carpe en bachis.

Carp haſhed .

CUT your carp in fmall pieces ; and put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots , pepper, falt , and nutmeg ; foak it a little , then add a little flour, half a pint of white-wine, and a little oniongravy ; ftew flowly ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence, and bread.

garnish

fried

with

Carpe en Ecuffon. Carp in the form of Scutcheon. CLEAN three ſmall carp, and ſkin them ; cut fome of the meat in ſmall long fillets, and make a forced-meat of the reft, with the roes, bread-crumbs foaked in cream , chopt ſhallots, parfley, pepper and ſalt, a little butter, and three or four yolks of eggs ; cut pieces of bread about the bignefs of a crown- piece, or in what ſhape your fancy directs ; lay fome of the forced-meat upon each piece, the tail of a craw-fifh in the middle, the fillets of carp round, intermixed with fillets of truffles ; cover this with more of the forced-meat, make them high or flat, and cut the fſkins in pieces to cover the upper part of each fcutcheon ; bake them in a moderate oven ; ſerve with a fauce made of the trimmings, white-wine.

cullis ,

and

Carpe

271

MODERN COOKERY.

Carpe au Prince . This name proceeds from the richneſs of the preparation . STUFF a carp with a good ragout, few it up, and take off the fkin of one fide ; lard it, ftew it a little in white-wine, then take it out to drain ; garnish the bottom of a ſtew- pan with a forced-meat made of roafted poultries, fat livers , fcraped lard or butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, bread-crumbs foaked in cream, pepper, falt, and the yolks of four or five eggs ;

lay the carp upon this ;

cover the

larded fide with flices of bacon ; bake it in the oven ; when done, drain off the fat, put

it upon the diſh you intend for table, glaze the upper fide of the carp, and ferve with a Spaniſh-fauce, or any other you pleaſe, adding the juice of half a lemon.

OF

PIK E.

PIKES

are

not

country,

nor

much

much in

efteemed in any other

this

where

falt-water fish are plentiful, although it bears its own merit in inland countries ; thoſe catched in rivers and clear water are preferable to thoſe in ponds , the meat is firmer and fweeter ; if the large ones are kept fome time, they will be more tender and eat better. Brochet frit.

Pike fried .

CUT your pike in pieces ; marinade it about two

272

THE PRACTICE OF

two hours in a little vinegar, water, pepper and falt, fliced onions, fhallots, and parſley ; then wipe it dry ; roll it in batter or breadcrumbs, and fry it of a good colour ; ferve upon a ragout of roes, or any other ragout, or with fried parſley. Brochet à l'Italienne á la Broche. Pike roafted Italian-faſhion. STUFF a pike with a forced- meat made of cow's-udder, roafted poultry, bread-crumbs foaked in cream , butter or fcraped lard , chopt parfley, ſhallots, muſhrooms, pepper, falt, and three or four yolks of eggs ; lard it on one fide, and wrap it up in buttered paper ; tie it to the fpit ; when ready, fſerve with

an

Italian-fauce, which you will find in Saucearticles. Brochet á la Poulettes. Fricaffee of Pike.

CLEAN the pike properly ; cut it in pieces , and put it in a ſtew-pan, with a piece of butter, fome muſhrooms, one dozen and a half of ſmall onions half-boiled, a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs , and three cloves ; foak theſe ſome time , then add a pint of white-wine and broth, with whole pepper and falt ; ſtew it on a ſmart fire ; reduce the fauce ; take out the faggot

when ready to ferve, add a liafon

made of eggs and cream as ufual, with the fqueeze of lemon .

Brochet

1

MODERN COOKERY.

273

Brochet en Dauphin. Pike in the form of a Dolphin-fish . THE pike being gutted and ſcaled , make a few incifions on the back and fides ; rub it over with coarſe pepper and ſalt ; then marinade it in oil , parfley, fhallots, one clove of garlick, and three laurel -leaves ;

tie it on a

ſkewer in the form of a dolphin ; bake it in the oven, bafting now and then with fome of the marinade ; when done, drain it, and ferve with what fauce you think proper. Brochet à la Mariée. Pike Bride-fashion. CUT the pike in pieces ; bone and flatten them as much as you can ; have a good forcedmeat ready, which you roll round the pieces , and tie them in pieces of cloth ; braze them in broth and white-wine, with a piece of butter, fliced carrots, onions, 1 a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs, pepper, and falt ; when done , take off the pieces of cloth , and ſerve with a reliſhing fauce.

Brochet á la Broche en Gras et en Maigre. Roaſted Pike with Meat or Meager Sauce. MAKE a forced-meat of fiſh , and ſtuff the pike with it ; lard it

with

eels ; put, upon

the paper, parſley, fhallots , thyme, and laurelleaves,

all whole ; wrap the pike in it, tie

it well with ſkewers to the ſpit, and bafte it with butter and white-wine boiled together ; S

274

THE PRACTICE OF

ther ; when done, take off the paper to give it a colour ; ſerve with a reliſhing fauce.

If

for gras (as the French call it), ftuff it with a good forced- meat ; lard it with bacon on one fide, and the other with anchovies, and a few pickled cucumbers through and through, and finiſh as above. 4 Brochet á la Simone.

Pike Country-wife faſhion . Cut the pike in pieces, marinade it in vinegar, pepper and falt ; cut turnips in what ſhape you pleaſe, and fry them in butter and flour ; then add a little broth, a faggot of fweet herbs, and three cloves ; then put the fish to it, with a piece of more butter ; when done, thicken the fauce with flour ; ſeaſon with pepper, falt, and a little vinegar , and garnish with fried bread. Brochet en Etuvée.

Pike ftewed .

MAKE a brown or riffolet with butter and flour ; then add a pint of red-wine, a faggot, four cloves, two dozen fmall

onions

half-

boiled, pepper and falt, then the pike cut in

pieces ;

ftew it flowly till

the

fish is

done ; take out the faggot, and add a piece of butter ; when ready to ferve, add two chopt anchovies and a ſpoonful of capers ; garniſh with fried bread, and ferve the fauce over all ; you may alſo add artichokes bottoms ,

muſh-

rooms , carp-roes, & c . & c. Brochet

1

MODERN COOKERY.

275

Brochet á la Provençale. Pike Provence- faſhion . LARD it with eel and anchovies through and through ; put it in a ftew-pan , much of its bignefs,

with cullis ,

broth

and

white-

wine, fliced onions, carrots , a faggot, a piece of butter,

pepper

and

falt ;

few

flowly

till done ; ferve with what ragout or fauce you think proper, or with its own braze ftrained and reduced to a proper confiftence. Brochet en Grenadins. Small Fricandeaus of Pike. CUT a large pike in middling pieces ; fkin , bone, and lard it ; braze it with thin flices of ham and veal, whole muſhrooms, a faggot, a little broth, half a pint of white-wine, and a little butter or oil ; ftew flowly until the grenadins are done ; then take them out, and fift the braze ; reduce it to a glaze, to glaze them with ; ferve them upon any kind of ftewed greens, or with what other fauce you pleaſe.

Brochet au vin de Champagne . Pike dreffed with Champaign. SCALE and gut the pike, and ſtuff it with a farcie made of bread-crumbs , butter, chopt parfley,

ſhallots ,

a

clove

of garlick, baſil,

thyme, laurel, pepper, and falt ; put it in a S2 pan

THE

PRACTICE

OF

276 pan much of its bignefs, with as much wine as will cover it, and two lemons peeled and fliced ; ftew it fome time, then fet fire to the wine, and let it burn till the fiſh is done ; then fift the fauce, reduce it to a proper

con-

1 fiftence, and ferve it upon the pike. Brochet à la Ducheffe .

Pike Dutcheſs - faſhion .

THE pike being fcaled and gutted , lard it with ham and bacon , ' fliced onions and roots , two cloves of garlick , three cloves, and a faggot ; foak it on a flow fire about half an hour, then add fome broth and a bottle of whitewine ; ſtew it until the pike is done, then take it out, ftrew it with crumbs of bread, and bafte it with butter ; put it in the oven till of a. good colour ; fift and fkim the braze, add a little cullis to it, reduce it to a good confiftence, and ſerve it under the fiſh. Brochet à l'Allemande.

Pike German-faſhion . If the pike is killed two or three days, fo much the better ; then clean it, and put it in a ftew-pan or fiſh-kettle, with two bottles of red-wine, or more or lefs in proportion to the bigness of the pike, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, three laurel- leaves, thyme, a little bafil, pepper, falt, and four cloves ; ftew it fome time, then fet it on fire with a piece of paper, and reduce it to about a pintof liquor ; then add a little butter, which you keep

MODERN COOKERY.

277

keep ftiring to incorporate it with the wine ; continue to add butter to it in this manner, until the fauce is well mixed and pretty thick ; ſerve hot and quick, for fear the ſauce ſhould turn to oil.

1 Pike Spaniſh-faſhion .

Brochet à l'Espagnole.

TAKE out the guts by the gills , without opening the belly ; when it is well cleaned , lard it with ham and bacon ; make a forcedmeat

with

roafted

poultry,

beef- marrow,

chopt parſley, ſhallots, fweet herbs, pepper and falt, the yolks of four or five eggs , and two or three glaffes of white -wine ; roaft it, being wraped in flices of bacon and paper, and baſte it with white-wine and butter boiled together ; when done , ferve under it a Spaniſh-fauce, as you will find it in the Sauce - articles .

OF

EELS .

THOSE that are catched in running waters are accounted the beft, and ought to be uſed as

freſh as poffible ; they are prepared in

many different ways, and are very uſeful to lard other fiſh with.

Anguille frite.

Fried Eel .

CUT one or two cels in pieces; cut out the backbone, and ſcore it on both fides ; marinade it bout an hour in vinegar, with parfley, fliced onions, fhallots, and four cloves ; then drain it, bafte S 3

278

THE

PRACTICE OF

baſte it with eggs and bread- crumbs , fry it of a good colour, garnish with fried parfley, and ſerve with a reliſhing fauce in a fauce-boat.

Anguille à l'Etuvée.

Stewed Eels.

MAKE a brown of butter and flour ; when 1 it is of a good colour, add a little broth, cullis , a pint of white-wine, one dozen and a half of fmall onions first blanched, a few mushrooms, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , three cloves, whole pepper, and falt ; ftew this until the onions are near done, then put the eels to it cut as the former ; ſtew on a fmart fire ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence ; when ready, add a chopt anchovy and a few whole capers ; garniſh the diſh with fried bread .

Anguille à la Choifi.

Eels Choifi-fafhion .

CUT the eels in two or three pieces, take out the back-bone, and flatten them ; make a ragout with fliced

onions fried in butter,

chopt parſley, fhallots, mushrooms , truffles, pepper, falt, and a little white- wine ;

ftew

it until the fauce is quite reduced ; let it cool, then mix it with fcraped lard or butter and three yolks of eggs ; put fome of the ragout upon each piece of eel ; roll them up in caul, wrap them in buttered paper, and roaſt them ; when done, take off the

paper, baſte

one

fide with eggs and bread-crumbs, and brown them with a falamander, this fide uppermoft ; . ferve

MODERN COOKERY.

279

ferve with a Spaniſh or pontiff fauce, which you will find how to make in articles.

the Sauce-

Anguilles en Fricaffee des Poulettes. Eels as Chicken-fricaffee . SKIN and cut the eels in pieces ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, fome muſhrooms, and three cloves ; foak this fome time, then put to it half a pint of white-wine and fome broth ; ſtew on a ſmart fire ; reduce the fauce, take out the faggot, and make a liafon with the yolks of eggs and cream ; obferve as a general rule, that the liafon muſt not boil ; when ready to ſerve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon.

E Anguille à la Nivernoife . Eel Nivernois-faſhion . SKIN and trim the eel ; cut it in pieces . bout three inches long ; and marinade it about two hours with oil, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms , pepper, and falt ; make as much of the marinade ftick to it as poffible ; ftrew it with crumbs of bread ; broil it on a flow fire, bafting with the remainder of the marinade ; when done of a good colour, ferve with a Nivernois-fauce .

Anguille á la Broche diverfifiée. Eel roafted and ferved with different fauces. CUT the eel as the former ; marinade it with $ 4

280

THE

PRACTICE

OF

with lemon-juice and oil, pepper, falt, four cloves, whole fhallots, thyme, and laurel ; let it marinade about two hours ; then tie it on a lark-fpit or fkewer ; wrap it up in buttered paper ; fqueeze the herbs of the marinade, and baſte the eels with the liquor and melted butter ; ferve

with

what ragout

or

fauce you pleaſe .

Anguille glacée. Fricandeau of Eel . CUT a large cel in pieces about four inches. long ; take out the back-bone, and lard it ; then braze it with flices of veal and ham, a faggot of ſweet herbs , and a little broth and white-wine ; braze it flowly (it requires but a fhort time) ; when it is done, take out the eel; fkim and fift the braze ; reduce it to a glaze, and glaze the eel ; put a little cullis and broth in the fame pan to gather the remainder of the glaze ; boil it a little ,

and

ftrain it; add the fqueeze of a lemon, and . ferve it under the cel : it may alſo be ſerved with any fauces , or ftewed greens according to the feafon.

Anguille á la Chartreufe. Eel Chartreufe -faſhion .

STEW a handful of bread- crumbs in a pint of white-wine, until the liquid is quite reduced ; let it cool ; then make a forced- meat of this and a boned carp, a piece of butter, chopt parfley , fhallots , mushrooms , pepper , falt,

MODERN COOKERY.

281

falt, and the yolks of four eggs ; lay fome of this forced-meat upon the difh you intend for table, then flices of eel, again forced- meat and eel, and ſo on till you finish it, the forcedmeat to be the laft ; fmooth it with a knife dipt in whites of eggs , and ftrew it over with crumbs of bread and rafped Parmeſan - cheeſe ; bake it in the oven or before the fire ; when done, drain off the fat, and ferve with a good cullis-fauce and the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Anguille en Canapé. Eel matted or maſked . CUT a large eel in pieces about three inches long, and take out the back-bone ; then make falpicon thus : Cut fome ofthe meat in ſmall dices , with carp- roes ( if to be got) , a little butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, pepper, falt, and the yolks of three eggs. Then make a forced-meat with the rest of the meat, breadcrumbs foaked in cream, a little butter, chopt parfley and

muſhrooms,

the yolks of three eggs .

pepper,

falt, and

Cut pieces of bread

the fame length of the pieces of bone , and about two inches wide ; lay fome of the forcedmeat upon each piece, then the back-bone and fome of the falpicon , then the forced-meat again ; fmooth it with a knife dipt in whites. of eggs ; ftrew them over with

crumbs of

bread, and bafte with butter ; bake them in the oven, and ferve with what fauce you think proper.

Anguille

282

THE

PRACTICE

Anguille au Brodequin.

OF

Eel Rack-tied .

CUT an eel in pieces about three inches long ;

marinade it in oil,

parfley,

ſhallots ,

thyme, and laurel ; cut pieces of bread pretty thick, and of the length of the pieces of eel ; fry the bread, lay fillets of anchovies upon the bread, and tie each piece of eel between four pieces of bread ; roll them up in buttered paper, and roaft them, bafting with the marinade ; when done, ferve with what fauce you pleaſe. Anguille á la Napolitaine.

Eel Naples-faſhion .

SPLIT one eel or more the whole length ; cut out the back- bone, and flatten the eel ; cut it in pieces about three or four inches long ; make a forced-meat with the meat, hard yolks of eggs , a little butter, chopt parſley, fhallots, pepper, falt, and the yolks of two or three raw eggs ; lay this forced - meat upon the pieces of eel, roll them up, and tie them with pack-thread ; ftew them about half an hour with a little butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, and falt ; let them cool , take off the pack-thread, and dip them in batter made of flour, one egg, white-wine, and a little falt ; fry them of a good colour, and ferve with fried parfley. Anguille á l'Afpic. Eel with Afpic -fauce. CUT an eel in pieces ; `marinade it an hour with melted butter,

chopt parfley, ſhallots , mufh-

MODERN COOKERY.

283

mushrooms, pepper, and falt ; let the butter. cool , and mix all together , with two or three yolks of eggs ; then fpit the eel on a ſkewer or lark-fpit , with all the marinade ; ftrew it with bread-crumbs, and broil on a flow fire, bafting with oil or butter ; ferve with aſpick fauce, either in the dish or in a fauce-boat ; you will find how to make it in the Saucearticles ,

OF

THOSE

PERCHES ,

Out of rivers

water are beft ; thofe

or

clear running

of marshy pools

or

muddy ponds are apt to have a muddy tafte : it is a very good and wholeſome fish , when large and fat. $ Matelotte des Perches á l'Eau. Matlot of Perches with a Water-fauce. MAKE a brown with butter and flour ; then put boiling water to it, parfley-roots , parfnips, carrots , fliced onions, and three or four cloves ; boil this about half an hour, and ftrain it : then put to it what quantity of perches you think proper, being firft well fcaled and cleaned ; alfo an eel cut in pieces, or any other kind of freſh-water fish, with a little brandy and falt : ftew on a ſmart fire ; reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence ; when almoſt done, add a little butter, and parſley coarſely chopt . Perche

284

THE PRACTICE

OF

Perche à la Tartare. Perches Tartary-faſhion .

SCALE your perches, cut them in two , and flatten them ; marinade them in oil, chopt parfley, fhallots, mushrooms , and powder of bafil; make as much of the herbs ftick to them as poffible, and ftrew them over with bread- crumbs ; broil them flowly, bafting with the marinade ; make a fauce with a little cullis and a little butter ; when ready to ſerve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it under the fifh . Perche au Beurre. Perches with Butter-fauce CLEAN and ſcale the perches ; take out the gills, and half of the roe by the gills , to keep them from burfting ; tie up the head ; boil them in half water and half white -wine, with a piece of butter, fliced onions , carrots , two or three flices of peeled lemon, parſley, pepper, and falt ; when done, drain them, and make a fauce with a piece of butter, a little flour, good broth, pepper,

and ſalt ;

when

ready, add the juice of half a lemon, and ſerve it upon the fiſh. Perches à differentes Ragouts et Sauces. Perches with different Ragouts and fauces.

SCALE and clean your perches ; ſtew them in broth and white -wine, or braze them with flices ofveal and bacon ; when done, ferve them with a ragout of craw-fiſh , carp, ſweetbreads, or

1

MODERN COOKERY.

285

or any other ; they may alſo be ſerved upon a napkin, with what fauce you pleaſe in a fauce -boat.

Perches á l'Angloife. Perches Engliſh -faſhion .

BOIL fome water, with a good deal of parfley, a few ſhallots , four cloves , two onions fliced, thyme, laurel , and half a handful offalt ; boil this about three quarters of an hour, and then ſtrain it ; your perches being cleaned and fcalded , boil them in this water ; in the mean time make a fauce with butter and flour, a little vinegar, chopt capers and anchovies, three yolks of hard eggs chopt very fine, a little broth, pepper, nutmeg, and ſalt ; make a liafon pretty thick ; drain the fiſh, and ſerve this fauce upon them . Perches frites.

Perches fried.

SCALE and clean them ; flit the fides in feveral places ; marinade them with juice of lemon, pepper and falt, parfley , and one clove of garlick, then drain and flour them ; fry them of a brown colour, and ferve with fried parſley.

OF

TENCHES .

Tenches á la Poulettes .

Tenches fricaffeed as Chickens. SCALD the tenches in boiling water, then take

1

286

THE PRACTICE OF

take them out and clean them, and cut the heads off; cut them in middling pieces , and washthem well in freſh water ; then fry fome muſhrooms in butter, then add a little broth and white-wine and the fish ; ftew fmartly, and ſeaſon with pepper and falt ; when the fauce is reduced to a proper confiftence, add a liaſon made with the yolks of three eggs , a little cream or broth, a little nutmeg, and a little parfley finely chopt ;

warm without boiling ;

when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Tenches en Ragout.

Ragout of Tenches.

PUT a piece of butter in a ſtew-pan, with a flice of ham , a fcalded fweetbread cut in four, fcalded cockfcombs , a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs , one onion ftuck with three cloves , a little bafil, and fome muſhrooms ; fimmer theſe a little, then add a little whitewine,

cullis

and broth,

pepper

and

falt ;

when this is about half done, put the tenches to it, cut in middling pieces ; they require but a fhort time to do ; fkim the fauce very well, then take out the faggot, onion , and ham ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of half a lemon .

Tenches á la Bonne-femme. Tenches the good Houfe-wife's faſhion . THE tenches being

well fcaled, cleaned,

and ſcalded in boiling water, put them in a ftew-

MODERN COOKERY.

287

ftew-pan with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms , a little white-wine and broth ; ſtew them flowly,

turning them

now and then ; add pepper, falt, and a little butter rolled in flour, to make the fauce pretty thick ; when ready to ferve, add a little vinegar or verjuice . Tenches au Pontife. Tenches with Pontiff- fauce. SCALD the tenches in boiling water ; then clean them and ſplit them at the back, take out all the bones, and flice off the meat almoſt to the ſkin ; make a forced - meat with udder, ſcraped lard or butter, chopt parſley , ſhallots, muſhrooms, bread-crumbs foaked in whitewine, pepper, falt, and the yolks of three or four eggs ; fill the tenches with this forcedmeat, and few them up to look as whole ; bafte them

with melted

butter, and ftrew

them over with bread-crumbs ; then put them in a diſh with flices of bacon at bottom, and bake them in the oven ; when done of a good colour, wipe off the fat, and ſerve with a Pontiff-fauce under them ; you will find how to make it in the Sauce-articles .

Tenches au Monarque, Tenches Monarch-fafhion . SPLIT them at the back ; cut out fome of the meat, and make a forced - meat of it, with chopt parfley,

fhallots,

mushrooms , bread-

‫شم‬

crumbs foaked in

cream, a piece of butter, the

288

THE

PRACTICE

OF

the yolks of three eggs , pepper, and ſalt ; ſtuff them with this forced -meat, few them up, fry them of a good colour in hog's-lard , and ferve them upon a ragout made thus : Put a little butter in a ſtew- pan , with a few muſhrooms, artichokes-bottoms cut in quarters , a flice of ham, two fhallots , a faggot of ſweet herbs, and three cloves ; foak it fome time, then add a little broth, a glaſs of white-wine, pepper, and falt ; when half-done, put fome of the roes to it either of tenches or carps being firſt blanched, and craw-fifh tails ; let the ragout be pretty , thick ; when ready to ſerve, add the fqueeze of a lemon . Tenches á l'Italienne. Tenches Italian-faſhion . CLEAN the tenches properly, blanch them in boiling water, and cut off the heads and tails ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a ſpoonfull of good oil, a little broth, two glaffes of white-wine, pepper and falt, chopt parſley, fhallots , one clove ofgarlick, a fewmuſhrooms, and two

or three flices of peeled

lemon ;

ftew flowly ; when almoſt done, take out the lemon ; fkim it clean , then ſtew it on a fmart fire to reduce the fauce to a proper confiftence .

Tenches des plufieurs façons.. Tenches different faſhions . GUT, fcale,

and clean them very well ;

make

}

MODERN COOKERY.

289

make a ſtuffing with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper, and falt ; ftuff the tenches with it ; then marinade them about an hour with oil, parfley,

fhallots, thyme,

laurel-leaves, bafil, one clove of garlick, pèpper and falt, all whole ; then broil the tenches, fqueeze the marinade , and baſte them with the liquid ; ferve them with fauce or ragout as you think proper . If large , you may ferve them roafted ;

if fo, they are not to be ſcaled :

or when they are fcaled and cleaned properly, you may ſtew them with water and white-wine, a piece of butter, fliced roots , onions, a faggot of parsley and fweet herbs, laurel, three cloves, pepper, and falt ; when done, take them out of the braze, and ferve with what fauce you think proper ; you may alfo fift the braze, and reduce it to a proper confiftence, and ferve it upon the fiſh, taking care it be properly ſeaſoned.

OF

TROUT S

Truites á la Chartreufe. Trouts Chartreufe-faſhion .

SCALE and clean the fish, and cut each in three pieces ; ftew them in broth, with pepper, falt, and two or three fliced lemons peeled ; make a fauce with a little butter rolled in bread-crumbs , chopt parfley, ſhallots , muſh→ rooms T

290

THE PRACTICE OF

rooms, a little bafil, pepper and falt, a little fish-broth, and a glafs of white-wine ; put the fish

upon the

dish

you

intend

for table,

fqueeze the juice of a Seville-orange upon them , then the fauce over, and ftrew them over with a few fine bread- crumbs .

Truites á la Perigord. Trouts Perigord- faſhion .

SCALE and clean the trouts, and gut them by the gills ; make a ſtuffing with butter, chopt truffles, pepper, and falt ; braze them with flices of ham, bacon and veal, broth , and a little white-wine , a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs, and whole pepper ; cut a few truffles in flices, and ſtew them with a little of the braze and fome good cullis ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; drain the trouts, and ſerve them with this ragout. Truites aux fines Herbes . Trouts with fweet Herbs . SCALE and clean them , and gut them bythe gills ; ftuff them with a ſtuffing made with butter, chopt parfley, fhallots,

pepper and

falt, well mixed together ; marinade them in oil, with chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms , a very little garlick, pepper and ſalt ; wrap them up in double paper, firft buttered , with as much of the marinade as poffible ; broil them on a flow fire, or bake in a middling hot oven ; boil a little cullis and fiſh-broth , with

MODERN COOKERY. 29t with two or three glaffes of white- wine ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; the trouts being done, take off the paper, fcrape all the herbs. off and mix them with the fauce, and ferve it upon the fish ; obferve to add feaſoning if neceffary . Truites á l'Allemande. Trouts German-faſhion , STUFF them with a ftuffing made as the former ; put them in a ſtew-pan or brazingkettle much of their bignefs , with about two thirds of white-wine and one of red, fliced carrots, and one onion ftuck with three or four cloves ; they muſt be covered about an inch ; put it on a ſmart fire ; when it boils, fet fire to the wine, and let it burn until it goes out of itſelf, or until it is reduced to leave only fauce enough ; take out the carrots and onion ; add a piece of butter, and ſtir it in the fauce as it melts, to mix it well, and ſerve it upon the fiſh .

Truites glacées. Trouts glazed as a Fricandeau . CLEAN them well , and gut them by the gills ; ftuff them with a thick well-feafoned ragout, made of fweetbreads, fat livers , truffles, and muſhrooms ; lard the trout or trouts on one fide ; braze them with flices of bacon, broth, and white-wine,

a faggot of fweet herbs,

whole pepper, and falt ; when they are done, drain T 2

292

THE PRACTICE OF

drain them, and glaze the larded fide with a meat glaze ; or fift and fkim the braze, and reduce it to a glaze, for the above purpoſe ;

and ſerve with what ragout or fauce

you think proper.

Truites au Bleu . Trouts of a fine blue Colour. CLEAN, and gut them by the gills ; lay them on a diſh, and pour two or three glaffes of boiling vinegar upon them, according to the bignefs, lefs or more ; then wrap them in a cloth, and put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, fliced carrots , onions , fhallots, one clove of garlick, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , broth and a pint of red-wine, pepper, and falt ; ſtew on a flow fire ; when done, take it off the fire ; let them lie in the braze until you are ready to ſerve, that they may take more taſte ofthe ſeaſoning; then drain them , and ferve upon a napkin ; garnish with green parfley : you may ſerve a fauce in a fauce-boat, or in the diſh without a napkin ; you may alſo make a fauce with fome of the braze and a little cullis , ferve upon the fiſh .

and

Truites au Four. Trouts done in the Oven. SCALE and clean them very well ; ftuff them with a ſtuffing made with a piece of butter, chopt parfley,

ſweet herbs, pepper,

and falt ; marinade them about an hour in a little

MODERN COOKERY.

little vinegar,

oil,

pepper,

and ſalt,

293

chopt

parſley, ſhallots, muſhrooms , and one clove of garlick ; make as much of the marinade ftick to them as poffible ; ftrew them with breadcrumbs, and bafte gently with the remainder ; put them upon the difh you intend for table, and bake them in a moderate heated oven ; when done, and of a good colour , ferve without any other fauce than the ſqueeze of a lemon.

OF

SALMON.

Saumon en Hatelets.

Haflets of Salmon .

CUT the falmon in middling pieces ; feafon them with fweet herbs, pepper and falt, mixed with butter and the yolk of a raw egg or two ; ſkewer them like haflets , with all the feaſoning ; ftrew them with bread-crumbs, and either roaſt or boil them, baſting with oil or butter ; when they are done of a good colour, ferve dry, with what fauce you think proper in a fauce-boat.

Saumon á la Bonne-femme . Salmon the good Houfe-wife's faſhion . CUT what

quantity of falmon

in flices .

you think proper ; marinade them in oil , whole pepper, and falt ; then broil or bake them in the oven, baſting with the marinade ; make a fauce with a little butter rolled in flour, a little broth, chopt parſley, ſhallots, mushI 3

THE PRACTICE OF 294

muſhrooms , pepper, and falt ; ſtew it ſlowly about half an hour ; when done, add the fqueeze of a lemon , and ſerve it with the fiſh ; fuch as has ſerved before will do again , being cut and prepared as above . Saumon aux fines Herbs . Salmon with fweet Herbs . TAKE a piece ofbutter, and mix it with chopt parſley, fhallots , fweet herbs , muſhrooms , pepper, and falt ; put fome of this in the bottom ofthe difh you intend for table, then fome thin flices of falmon upon it, and the remainder of the butter and herbs upon the falmon ;

ftrew it over with

bread-crumbs ,

and bafte it with butter ; bake it in the oven ; when it is done, drain the fat from it, and ferve with a clear relifhing fauce. Saumon au Court Bouillon. Salmon with its own Sauce . TAKE a piece of falmon of what bigneſs you think proper ; fcale and clean it, tie it up in a cloth, and put it in a pan much of its bignefs, with a piece of butter, half meager and half red-wine,

whole pepper and falt,

four cloves, fliced carrots , onions, and a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs ; boil it on a flow fire ; when done, drain it, and ferve it upon a napkin, with lobfter and fhrimp fauces in fauce-boats .

7

Saumon

MODERN COOKERY.

295

Saumon en Fricandeau. Fricandeau of Salmon ,

THE falmon being ſcaled and cleaned , lard it, and braze it with flices of veal and ham, four cloves , fliced roots , onions , a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, broth and whitewine, whole pepper, and falt ; ftew gently till done, then larded fide

take it

with

out and glaze the

a meat

glaze, and ferve under it an Italian -fauce, or any other you think proper.

Saumon aux Ecreviffes en Gras et en Maigre. Salmon with Craw-fifh , dreffed with meat fauce or meager. THE falmon being ſcaled and cleaned ; if for meager, boil it as the above, and ſerve it with a good craw-fifh ragout upon it : if gras, put it in a ſtew-pan upon flices of veal and ham ; cover it with thin flices of bacon, with fliced carrots , onions, a faggot of ſweet herbs, four cloves , whole pepper, and falt ; foak it a little on a flow fire, then add half broth

and half white-wine fufficiently to

cover it ; ftew it on a flow fire ; when done, drain and glaze it with a meat-glaze on the larded fide ; ferve under it an Italian -fauce , or any other you think proper.

Saumon frit.

Fried Salmon.

CUT flices of falmon in what bigneſs you think proper ;

put them in a

T4

milk- warm mari-

E OF

THE PRACTIC $96

marinade, made of a piece of melted butter, a little water and flour, two fpoonfuls of vinegar, pepper and falt, fliced roots, onions, parfley, thyme, laurel, and fix cloves ; letthem remain about an hour in the marinade,

then

drain, flour, and fry them of a good colour ; garnish with fried parfley : when marinaded as above, you may alſo broil them ,

bafting

with the liquid of the marinade, and ftrewed over with ſweet herbs finely chopt ; ferve with caper and anchovy fauces, or others, in fauce-boats . Hare de Saumon á different Sauces et Ragouts, Head or Joul of Salmon with different Sauces or Ragouts. CUT the joul in what bignefs you think proper ; fcale and clean it very well ; braze it with flices of veal, ham and bacon, broth and

white-wine,

four cloves,

a

faggot of

parfley and fweet herbs , whole pepper, and falt if for meager, braze it with half white, wine, a piece of butter, trimmings of fifht well cleaned, fliced roots, onions, and ſweet herbs : when done, drain the falmon , and ferve upon it what ragout or fauce you think proper, being done either way.

Darde de Saumon á la Choifi. A

large

flice

of

Salmon

Choifi-fafhion.

(Darde, in Cookery, means a large flice cut lengthwife, fpeaking of Fiſh . ) , CUT a large flice of ſalmon , and lard it thro' and

MODERN COOKERY.

1

297

and through with ham and bacon ; put it in a ſtew- pan with a piece of hog's -lard or butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, muſhrooms , pepper, and falt ; give it a few turns over the fire, then put it in another ftew- pan upon thin lices of veal, and thin flices of bacon over, with all the ſeaſoning ; foak it fome time on a flow fire ; add about half a pint of whitewine, and ſtew on a flow fire till done ; then ftrain and fkim the fauce, add a little cullis and craw-fiſh or lobſter ſpawn , reduced to a proper confiftence ; when ready, add the fqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve it upon the darde,

1

Caiffes de Saumonfumé. Cafes of ſmoked ſalmon .

TAKE a piece of fmoked falmon and cut it in thin flices ; foak theſe in milk or water (milk is the beft) about an hour : then, having made fmall paper-cafes , drain and wipe the falmon ; roll each piece in melted butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, and muſhrooms ; and put them in the cafes, with a few crumbs of bread over ; bafte with a little butter, broil them a little over a flow fire or in the oven, and ferve with the ſqueeze of an orange or lemon. Saumon falé à la Hollandoife. Dried Salmon Dutch-fafhion . TAKE a piece of falmon of what bigneſs you pleaſe, ſoak it according to your judgement, and boil it a little, then drain it, and

I

298

THE PRACTICE OF

and pull it in flecks ; make a fauce with a piece of butter and flour, a little pepper, chopt parfley, one clove of garlick bruiſed, and fome good cream ; make the fauce pretty thick, and put the falmon to it ; give it a few turns on the fire, then put it on the diſh you intend

for table, ftrew it over with bread-

crumbs, and bafte it with butter ; give it a colour in the oven , with a falamander, or before the fire.

OF

STURGEON.

Efturgeon á la Broche en Gras et en Maigre. Sturgeon roaſted, with Meat or Meager Sauce. IF for meager, lard the fturgeon with anchovies and eel. If for gras, lard it with ham and bacon, and prepare a liquid for bafting it after this manner : Put a piece of butter in a ſtew-pan, with chopt parſley, ſhallots , one clove of garlick, thyme, laurel, bafil , and a gill of white-wine ; baſte the ſturgeon with this while roafting ; when it is done, ferve with acid-fauce, either gras or meager, or with any ragout you pleaſe.

Efturgeon á la Mayence. Sturgeon Mayence-faſhion . LARD a piece of fturgeon, of what bigneſs you think proper, with Weftphalia ham , fat and lean cut together ; wrap it up in paper, and

299

MODERN COOKERY.

and roaſt it, bafting it with butter : make a fauce as follows, Put in a ftew-pan a few flices of ham and veal, fliced carrots , onions , parfley-roots , fhallots , and three cloves ; foak it on the fire until it begin to catch at bottom ; then add a little cullis, half a pint of whitewine, whole pepper, and a little falt ; reduce it to a proper confiftence, then ſkim and ftrain it ; when done, add the juice of half a lemon , and ferve it upon the fturgeon .

N. B. The above is from being larded

called á la Mayence,

with

Weftphalia

ham,

which are called in France Jambon de Mayence.

Efturgeon au Court Bouillon . Sturgeon in its own Sauce. STEW the fturgeon in as much liquid as will ſtew it, being half fiſh-broth or water and half white-wine, with a little vinegar, fliced roots,

onions , fweet herbs,

whole pepper,

and falt ; when done, ferve upon a napkin ; garnish with green parfley, and ferve with what fauces you pleaſe in fauce-boats , ſuch as capers , anchovies , & c. & c.

Efturgeon grillé.

Sturgeon broiled.

CUT thin flices of sturgeon ; marinade them about an hour in oil, chopt parfley, fhallots, a little bafil, muſhrooms , pepper, and falt ; then ftrew each piece over with breadcrumbs, and broil them flowly, bafting with the

THE PRACTICE OF

300

the marinade ; ferve with a clear fharp fauce under, or only with the fqueeze of a lemon upon each piece. Efturgeon

á la St Menehoult en gras

et en

maigre. Sturgeon St Menehoult-faſhion , gras or meager.

CUT one, two , or three thick flices of fturgeon.

If for meager , lard them with ancho-

vies foaked in water, feaſoned with falt and fpices, or do it without larding ; braze it with white-wine and milk, and a good piece of butter ; when done , ſkim the fat off the braze, and beat it up with three or four yolks of eggs ; thicken it on the fire, then bathe the fturgeon

with it ,

and ftrew it

over with

crumbs of bread ; bafte it with melted butter, and bake it in the oven till of a good colour ; ferve with fauce Remoulade in a fauce-boat, which you will find in the Sauce-articles . for

gras ,

lard the

furgeon

through

If and

through with bacon , feaſoned with falt and fpices ; and braze it with flices of ham and bacon, a few ſliced roots and onions, a faggot of ſweet herbs , white- wine and milk, whole pepper and falt, and finiſh as above.

Grenadins d'Efturgeon. Small Fricandeaus of Sturgeon. CUT as many fmall pieces of sturgeon as you think proper for a difh ; lard and braze

MODERN COOKERY.

301

braze them on a flow fire, with a few flices of veal

and ham ,

and a faggot of ſweet

herbs, the liquid being half broth and half white-wine ;

when

done,

ftrain

and ſkim

the braze ; reduce it to a caramel , glaze the larded fide of the fricandeaus , and ſerve it with what fauce you think proper, as Spaniſh or

Pontiff, &c.

You

may alſo prepare a

large piece in the fame manner ; or, if the fturgeon is ſmall, a whole one : it ought to be ſkinned, and may be dreffed in all the different ways herein mentioned , ſeaſoning it with judgment and taſte , which are the beſt guides in cookery.

Efturgeon á la Cendre. Sturgeon brazed on Afhes or a very flow Fire. LARD a piece of fturgeon with half ham and half bacon ; put it in a ſtew-pan, with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, ſhallots , one clove of garlick,

a fprig of fennel,

three

cloves, a little pepper, and falt ; fimmer it a little over the fire, then put a few flices of veal under the fish in the fame pan ; cover it with flices of bacon , and white paper over it ; add half a pint of white-wine, and braze it on a very flow or aſhes fire ; when done, take out the fiſh, ftrain and fkim the fauce very clean from fat, add a little cullis to it, and boil it a little ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Eftur-

302

THE PRACTICE OF

Efturgeon á l'Angloife. Sturgeon Engliſh-faſhion. PUT the fturgeon in a ſtew-pan or fiſhkettle much of its bignefs , with water and vinegar fufficient to cover it,

(the quantity

of vinegar to be about one fourth , ) a little whole pepper, and a handful of falt, fliced carrots , onions , and parfley- roots ; boil flowly; and when done, ferve with anchovy or caper fauce in a fauce-boat, or any other you pleaſe.

Efturgeon á la Provençale. Sturgeon Provence-faſhion . Lard a piece of fturgeon with half bacon and half anchovies ; put it in a few-pan, upon flices of ham and veal, with one clove of garlick, three fhallots , a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs , a little bafil, four cloves, and a little whole pepper ; cover it with ſlices of bacon, and foak it on the fire about half an hour ; then add a pint of white-wine, or more or lefs according to judgment ;

braze it on a

flow fire ; when done, ftrain and ſkim the fauce very clean from fat, add a little cullis to it, and reduce to a proper

confiftence ;

when ready, add the juice of half a lemon, and ſerve it upon the fish.

Efturgeon á la bâte. Sturgeon dreffed in hafte or quickly.

CUT what number of flices of fturgeon you think

1

MODERN COOKERY.

303

think proper ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter ; foak them on the fire, turning them two or three times , (they will require but a fhort time to do ; ) then take them out, and feafon them with pepper and falt; then put to the butter in the ſame ſtew- pan , with a little cullis and red-wine, chopt parfley and fhallots ; boil it on a fmart fire a little, add feafoning according to judgment, and put the flices to it ; warm without boiling, add a few chopt capers, fried bread.

and garnish with

OF LARGE AND SMALL TURBOTS .

LARGE and fmall turbots are prepared in the fame manner. Chooſe them of a fine grain , ofa lively white colour, fat, and free of bruifes or fpots of any fort. Brills may be dreffed in all the different manners as fmall turbots . Turbotin à la St Menehoult. Small Turbot St Menehoult-faſhion. HALF-boil it in water and a little whitewine, with a piece of butter, fliced carrots, a faggot of parsley, four cloves , a little whole pepper, and half a handful of falt ; then drain it ; fkim the butter off the liquor, and mix it with the yolks of three or four eggs and a little cullis ; thicken it over the fire, and bafte the turbot with it ; then put it on the diſh you intend for table, ftrew it over with bread-

THE PRACTICE

OF

304 bread-crumbs, bafte it with butter, bake it in the oven till of a good colour, and ferve with a reliſhing fauce. Turbotin au Parmefan. Small Turbot dreffed with Parmefan- cheeſe. CUT and trim the turbot properly ; marinade it about an hour in melted butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper, and falt ; then put fome of the marinade in the diſh you intend for table, with a little cullis , grated Parmefan cheeſe, and bread-crumbs ; lay the turbot upon this, and the fame over as under ; bake it in the oven, (the fauce muſt be well reduced), clean the difh ; and ferve without any other fauce .

Turbotin au Pontife. Turbot with Pontiff-fauce. TAKE a fifh -kettle or ftew-pan much of the ſize of the turbot, with a fiſh-plate in it, and garnish it with thin flices of ham and veal, fliced roots and onions, one

clove of

garlick, a little whole pepper, and three cloves ; foak it on a flow fire near half an hour ; then add a bottle of white-wine and as

much

broth,

with falt fufficient ;

ftew

it on a flow fire until the meat is done ; then ftrain the fauce, put the turbot to it, and ftew it on a flow fire until it is done ; then drain it, and ferve it with Pontiff-fauce, as you will find it in Sauce-articles : Or you may ferve

MODERN COOKERY. 305

ferve it

with the fauce it was ftewed in,

thickening it with flour and butter, and ſeaſoning it according to taſte and judgment. Turbotin aux fines Herbes. Small Turbot dreffed with fweet Herbs .

WHEN the turbot or turbots

are gutted

and waſhed very clean , marinade them about an hour in melted butter or oil , the juice of a lemon, chopt parſley, ſhallots, muſhrooms , fweet herbs, pepper, and falt ; then lay them on the diſh you intend for table, with all their feafoning ; ftrew them overwith bread crumbs , and bafte them with melted butter ; then bake them

in the oven of a good colour :

when ready to ferve, if the fauce is not fharp enough, add the fqueeze of a lemon ; you may alſo ſerve any other fauce you think proper in a fauce-boat ; you may alſo broil them, when marinaded as above. Filets de Turbot des differentes façons. Fillets of Turbot of different faſhions. TAKE the remainder of a turbot that has been uſed before, cut it neatly in dices, and put them juft to warm in a good fauce, fuch as bechamel, fauce á la reine, á la morue, or any other you

think proper : in all

large

tables , where a great number of diſhes are wanted, this and many other ſuch ſmall diſhes will ferve as well as freſh ones, with much lefs coft.

U

Frie

CE

CTI

306

THE PRA

OF

Fricandeau de Turbotin. Fricandeau of Turbot.

CLEAN and trim the turbot properly ; lard it as a fricandeau, either all over one fide or quarterwiſe ; put it in a fiſh-kettle or ſtewpan, much of its own bignefs , with a falſe bottom under it, and as much broth and white-wine as will cover it, with fliced roots, onions , one clove of garlick, a faggot of fweet herbs, three cloves, a little whole pepper and a little falt ; ftew it on a flow fire until done ; then take it

out,

cover it up,

and

keep it warm ; ftrain and ſkim the braze, reduce it to a caramel, and glaze the larded ´part; ſerve with a Spaniſh-fauce under . Turbotin au Citron.

Turbot with Lemon-fauce.

RUB a ftew-pan or brazing-kettle with a piece of butter ; then add a few fliced onions , fhallots,

parfley,

thyme, laurel, bafil, pep-

per, and falt ; put the turbot upon this, and the ſame ſeaſoning above, with two lemons peeled and fliced , and a good piece of butter ; bake it in a middling hot oven ; when it is done, fcrape off all the feaſoning, and drain it well from the liquid ; upon it gafcoon -fauce.

difh it, and ferve

Tur-

MODERN COOKERY .

307.

Turbotin á la Hollandoife. Turbot Dutch-faſhion . PUT about two ſpoonfuls of oil and a little white-wine in a ſtew-pan, with a little parfley, green onions, thyme, bafil, laurel , one clove of garlick, pepper and falt, all whole ; boil this together about half an hour ; then put the turbot in a baking-difh, and pour the first preparation upon it, cover it with another diſh , and ſtew it between two flow fires ; when it is done, pour off all the feafoning, and put the fiſh upon the diſh you intend for table ; make a fauce with fome good jellybroth, a piece of butter rolled in flour , a little fcalded parfley chopt very fine, a little pepper and falt ; thicken it over the fire ; when ready, add the fqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it upon the turbot.

OF HALLIBUT, FLOUNDERS , AND PLAISE.

THE hallibut is a large flat fiſh, reſembling the turbot, but much inferior in eating : it may be dreſſed in all the different ways ofturbots. Plaiſe may alſo be dreffed the fame way ; at leaſt what is commonly called Dutch plaife, as they are much larger, and very good when quite freſh and firm, which may foon be diftinguiſhed by the hardneſs of the fifth, and watery ftreaks

which appear through the fkin U 2

308

THE PRACTICE OF

fkin after long keeping.

Flounders are ef

teemed much better fish than the plaiſe, and are to be chofen by the fame obfervation : it is diftinguiſhed from the plaife, by having fewer fpots, fmaller, and more of a yellow caft. It is a general obfervation of flat fiſh , as hallibuts , turbots , foals , & c. that if the backbone appear any thing black, the fish is not freſh : I believe it is not always the caſe , and will appear to be fo to thoſe who will be at the trouble of obſervation .

I ſhall only ob-

ſerve in regard to flat fishes , that thofe of a middling

fize

generally prove

the

beſt

eating. Carrelets au Citron. Flounders with Lemon-fauce.

GUT and clean the flounders properly ; fcore them on the back in three or four places ; marinade them in melted butter or oil , parfley, fhallots , pepper, and falt ; broil them, bafting with the marinade ; when done , make a fauce with fome cullis , a little butter, the juice of a lemon, two

or three flices peeled and cut in dices, and ferve it upon the flounders they may alſo be dreffed in every refpect as mullets or whitings. OF

Soles au Pontife.

SCAL S.

Soals with Pontiff- fauce.

BRAZE the foals with a little broth and white-

MODERN COOKERY.

309

white-wine, a piece of butter, a little parfley, one clove of garlick, two or three ſhallots, three cloves, a little whole pepper and falt, and two or three flices of peeled lemon ; when done, ferve with a Pontiff-fauce over them .

Soles aux fines Herbs. Soals with fweet Herbs.

SOALS that have ferved before, either plain boiled or fried, will anſwer : if fried , take off the ſkin, cut each in four pieces, and trim them properly ; make a fauce with a little cullis and white-wine, a little butter, chopt parſley, green onions ,

a very little garlick,

thyme, baſil , and muſhrooms ; ſtew theſe together about half an hour, then put the foals to it, and warm without boiling ; ſeaſon with pepper, falt, and the fqueeze af a lemon . Soles au Four. THE

foals

Soals baked in the oven .

being

properly

cleaned

and

trimmed, ſplit them on the back, and ſtuff them with a ſtuffing made of a piece of butter, bread-crumbs, chopt parfley, bafil, fhallots , muſhrooms,

pepper and falt ; rub the difh

you intend for table with a piece of butter, and lay the foals upon it, the backs undermoft ; then mix two or three yolks of eggs , with a little melted butter, fweet herbs chopt, pepper, and falt; lay this pretty thick upon the foals, ftrew them over with bread- crumbs, and

bake them in the oven ; when they are Ú 3

THE PRACTICE or

310

are done of a good brown colour, drain the fat from them, and ferve with a relishing cullis-fauce. Soles en Hatereaux.

Olives of Soals .

SPLIT the foals in four or two lengthwife, and take out the bones ; make a forcedmeat with any kind of fish or ſome of their own, a piece of butter, bread-crumbs foaked in cream,

chopt parfley

and fweet

herbs,

pepper, falt, and the yolks of three or four eggs ;

lay fome of this

forced-meat

upon

each fillet , and roll them up tight ; ſtew them in good broth and a little white- wine, with a few flices of carrots, one onion ſtuck with two cloves , a flice of a peeled lemon, a little whole pepper, and falt ; when they are done, drain , and dip them in batter made of flour, a little oil and white-wine ; fry them in hogslard, of a good colour, and garnish with fried parſley ; you may alſo ſerve them with a good cullis-fauce. Solesfuprémes.

Soals excellent, excelling , &c .

WHEN the foals are properly cleaned , put them in a few-pan with fome good jellybroth, a little white-wine, one or two fhallots, a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs, two cloves, a little whole pepper, and falt ; braze them on a flow fire ; when done, ftrain part of the braze, and mix it with a little cullis ; fkim it free from fat, and reduce it to a proper

MODERN COOKERY.

311

per confiftence ; if not fharp enough, add the ſqueeze of a lemon , and ſerve it upon the foals.

Soles au Pontife.

Soals with Pontiff Sauce.

STEW the foals with fome broth , a little white-wine, a piece of butter, a little parſley, one clove of garlick, two or three fhallots , three cloves, a little whole pepper, and ſalt ; when done, drain them, and ſerve with pontiff fauce. Soles en Fricandeaux. Fricandeaus of Soals.

GUT, fcale, and trim the foals properly ; ſkin the white fide, and lard them ; put in a ftew-pan a few flices of veal and ham, fliced roots and onions , half a clove of garlick, halfa laurel-leaf,

two cloves, a little whole pepper, and falt ; foak it on a flow fire until it is ready to catch ; then add ſome good broth and a little white-wine ; ftew it on a flow fire

until it is done ; then ftrain it, and put it in another pan with the foals , the larded fide undermoft ; when done, take the fiſh gently out, reduce the fauce to a glaze, and glaze the larded fide of the foals ; ferve with a reliſhing ſauce. Filets des Soles á la Bechamel. Fillets of Soals Bechamel Sauce.

MAKE a bechamel fauce, and prepare the fillets of foals in the fame manner as thofe

U4

done

312

THE PRACTICE OF

done with ſweet herbs, (fuch as have ferved before will do very well ; ) fimmer them a little in the fauce, to warm without boiling .

Filets des Soles au Verjus. Fillets of Soals with Verjuice-fauce . CUT the fillets as the preceding ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a little butter, fome good cullis, two or three fpoonfuls

of verjuice,

(where verjuice is not to be had, uſe vinegar to give it a proper fourneſs) , pepper, ſalt, and ſweet herbs chopt very fine ; fimmer it about half an hour, and ferve quite hot ; you may alſo ſerve thoſe forts of fillets with any` of ftewed greens, as forrel, endives,

forts

celery, & c.; warm the fillets in a little broth, and ferve them upon the ragout .

Soles frites.

Soals fried .

Scale and trim the foals properly, and fkin the black fide ; mix fome bread- crumbs with a very little flour ; bafte the foals with beat eggs, and ftrew them over with the bread-crumbs as above ; fry them in hog's -lard, of a good colour ; garniſh with fried parſley, and ferve with anchovy-fauce, &c. in a fauce-boat.

OF

MACKARELS .

Maquereaux á l'Italienne. Mackerels Italian -faſhion . GUT and clean the mackerels ; broil them on

MODERN COOKERY.

313

on a clear fire ; then make a fauce with a piece of butter, fome good broth, a little oil, half a clove of garlick, chopt parfley, pepper, falt, and the juice of half a lemon ; warm it without boiling, and keep it ſtirring until ready to ferve with the mackerels .

Maquereaux au Court Bouillon . Mackerels Court Bouillon-faſhion . PUT in a ſtew-pan fome weak broth, half a pint of white-wine, fliced roots , onions, fweet herbs , pepper, and falt ; boil this together about half an hour, then boil the fifh In it ; make a fauce with a piece of butter, a little flour, one fhallot chopt very fine, ſome ſcalded fennel chopt, and a little of the boiling liquid ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon.

Maquereaux en Fricandeaux . Fricandeaus of Mackerels . THE mackerels being gutted and cleaned , fkin one fide of them, and lard them ; then prepare a braze with a few flices of veal, one of ham, half broth and half white-wine, and a faggot of ſweet herbs ; ftew this together, till the veal is almoft done ; then put the fiſh to it with a few whole muſhrooms , and ſtew on a flow fire till done ; then ftrain and fkim the braze, reduce part of it to a caramel , and glaze the larded fides ; add a little butter and flour to the remainder, with pepper and falt ; reduce

314

THE PRACTICE OF

reduce it to a proper confiftence ; when ready, add the ſqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve it under the mackerels.

Maquereaux á la Maître d'Hótel. Mackerels , Clerk of the Kitchen faſhion .

GUT them by the gills, clean them well, and ſplit them along the back to the bone : then make a ſtuffing with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper, and falt ; ftuff this in the bellies : broil them on a flow fire ; you will find they are enough when the fish looks white at the bone : ferve with the ſqueeze of a lemon, or burnt butter, and a little vinegar ; you may alfo ferve them with caper or anchovy fauce.

Maquereaux á la Flamande. Mackerels Flemish-faſhion .

STUFF the mackerels as the preceding ; wrap them up in buttered paper ; broil them on a flow fire, bafting now and then with melted butter ; you may alſo roaſt them, being prepared as above ; ferve with verjuice, or any other you think proper.

Maquereauxfrits. Fried Mackerels.

CUT the mackerels in large fillets ;

mari-

nade them about half an hour with the juice of a lemon,

pepper,

and falt ;

then

wipe them

1

MODERN COOKERY.

315

them dry ; dip them in batter made of flour, a little falt, one egg,

and white-wine ; fry

them very criſp, and garnish with fried parfley ; you may alſo bafte them with yolks of eggs , and ſtrew them over with bread- crumbs , mixed with a little flour, and fry as above.

Filets de Maquereaux à jus d'Orange. Fillets of Mackerels with Orange-fauce. THE mackerels being gutted and cleaned, ſplit each in two, cut out the bones , and cut each half in two ; put them in a few-pan with a little butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots, muſhrooms, a little nutmeg, pepper, and falt ; give them a few turns over the fire ; then add a little cullis and white-wine, and ſtew on a flow fire about half an hour ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of two Seville oranges, Maquereaux en Cailles, Mackerels dreffed Quail- faſhion . CUT your mackerels in three or four pieces each ; put them in a ftew-pan with a little butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, green onions, mushrooms, pepper, and falt ; give them a few turns over the fire, and put them to cool ; then wrap each piece in vine- leaves and a thin flice of bacon ; lay them ſeparately on a baking-diſh, and bake them in the oven ; when almoſt

done,

ftrew crumbs of bread

over

them, then put them in the oven again to take

CE

CTI

316

THE PRA

take colour,

OF

and ferve all together with a

little good cullis and white-wine. Caifles des Maquereaux aux Trufes. Mackerels broiled in Paper- cafes, with a Farcie made with Truffles . Mix a piece of butter with two or three truffles chopt very fine, and chopt parſley, fhallots, pepper, and falt ; ftuff the mackerels with this, and wrap them in vine-leaves and thin flices of bacon ; put them in paper- cafes well buttered, one double fheet of paper dipt in oil or melted butter under the cafes ; broil them on a flow fire, turning them

ſeveral

times while broiling ; when done, pour out the fat, take off the bacon , and ferve with the fqueeze of a lemon .

Maquereaux aux Ecreviffes. Mackerels with Craw-fifh Sauce . PREPARE a craw-fish cullis, and chop the tails very fine ; mix them with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, pepper, and falt ; ftuff the mackerels with it, wrap them up in buttered papper, and broil as the former ; when done, take off the paper, and ferve the craw-fish cullis upon the fiſh .

Maquereaux á l'Anglois , Mackerel Engliſh-faſhion . GUT the mackarel at the gills ; plain broil fome of them, and boil the reft in water, with half

1 MODERN

COOKERY .

317

half a handful of ſalt, half a pint of vinegar, and a little fennel ; when done , chop the fennel very fine, and mix it with melted butter ; difh the boiled mackerels with a napkin under them, garniſh with the broiled ones , and ferve with the fennel and gooſeberry ſauces in fauce-boats .

OF

SKATE .

Raie au Beurre noir. Skate with burnt-butter-fauce .

BOIL the ſkate in water, with falt, vinegar, flices of onions, and ſweet herbs ; when done, take it out,

and feaſon it with pepper and

falt ; fry fome butter until it is quite black, and (ftill in the frying-pan) put a little vinegar and parſley to it, and ferve it quite hot upon the ſkate . Raie à la Jacobine. Skate Jacobine- faſhion.

MAKE a fauce with a little butter and flour, chopt

parfley,

fhallots,

a

little

tarragon ,

bafil, anchovies, capers, pepper, falt, and a little water ; ftew it until the herbs are done, and ferve it upon plain boiled ſkate. Raie marinée. SKIN the fkate,

Skate marinaded . and cut it in pieces of

what bigneſs you think proper ; marinade it about two hours in a milk-warm marinade, made with a piece of butter, water, vinegar, one

E OF

THE PRACTIC

318

one clove of garlick and fweet herbs chopt, fliced onions and roots, pepper, falt, and three cloves ; then drain it well, flour and fry it of a good colour, garnish with fried parſley, and ferve with what fauce you pleaſe in a fauce -boat. 1

Raie grillée.

Skate broiled .

SKIN and cut the ſkate in pieces as the former; ftew it in butter and milk, with all forts of ſweet herbs chopt, pepper, and ſalt ; when done, dip each piece in melted butter, and roll them in

bread- crumbs ;

broil or bake

them of a good colour , and ferve with remoulade or muftard fauce under the fiſh or in a fauce-boat.

Raie Matelotte au Parmefan. Matlot of Skate and Parmeſan- cheeſe . SKIN

and cut the ſkate

as directed for

broiling, and ftew it in the fame ſeaſoning ; make a ragout of whole fmall onions, with a thick fauce, and a good piece of butter added to it ; put fome of this ragout upon the diſh you intend for table, and a little rafped parmeſancheeſe over it ; lay the ſkate upon this, and fome of the onions and ſmall pieces of fried bread between each piece ; put a ſpoonful of muſtard in the remainder of the fauce, and the yolks of two or three eggs ; mix it well together,

and pour it over the fiſh ; then

ftrew it over with bread - crumbs and rafped Par-

MODERN COOKERY.

319

Parmefan-cheeſe, and colour it with a falamander or in the oven.

Raie au Vin de Champagne. Skate with White -wine Sauce. PREPARE the ſkate as directed for marinaded ; then fry it ; boil the liver, chop and ſtew it a little with fome cullis, whitewine, chopt parſley, fhallots, nutmeg, pepper, falt, and a piece of butter ; when ready to ſerve, add a liafon made with the yolks of two eggs and a little broth, and ferve it upon the fiſh.

Scate á la Bargogne, is done

after the fame manner ; only the fish plain boiled, and red-wine inftead of white.

OF

HERRINGS.

Harengs frais, Sauce au Capers. Fresh Herrings with Caper-fauce. MARINADE them in melted butter or oil, with a few ſweet herbs chopt ; broil them , bafting with the marinade, and ferve with caper-fauce in a fauce-boat .

Harengs frais au Fenouil. Freſh Herrings with fennel-fauce. SPLIT them at back ; marinade them near an hour in melted butter, with a little fennel, pepper, and falt ; then broil them as the former, bafting

THE PRACTICE OF

320

1 bafting with the marinade ; ferve with fennelfauce in a fauce-boat.

Harengs frias á la Moutrde. Fresh Herrings with Muſtard - fauce . GUT and wipe the herrings very clean ; melt fome butter ; add chopt parfley, fhallots, green

onions, pepper, and falt ; dip the herrings in this, and roll them in breadcrumbs ; then broil them, and ferve them with a fauce made of melted butter, flour, broth, a little

vinegar,

ready to ſerve,

pepper,

and falt ;

add mustard

when

according to

judgment.

Harengs frais en Matelotte. Matlot of fresh Herrings. MAKE a brown of butter and flour ; when of a fine brown , add fome broth and whitewine, a faggot of fweet herbs and parſley, one dozen and a half of ſmall onions fcalded, and a few whole muſhrooms ; ſtew this about half an hour ; then trim the herrings , and put them to it ; add pepper and falt ; ſtew on a fmart fire, and reduce the fauce to a good confiftence ; when ready to ferve, add a few ſmall whole capers and a chopt anchovy ; garnish the dish with fried bread.

Harengsfrais á la St Menehoult. Freſh Herrings St Menehoult-faſhion. PUT in a ftew-pan a piece of butter, fome milk,

MODERN COOKERY. milk

and

a

little

flour,

fliced

321

roots

and

onions , fweet herbs chopt, pepper , and falt ; boil this about half an hour, then ftew the herrings in it ; when they are almoſt done, take them out, and fkim the fat off the liquor, dip the herrings in it, and roll them in breadcrumbs ; then broil them, and

ferve

with

what fauce you thing proper in a ſauce- boat. Harengs fors etfalés á la St Meneboult. Dried and pickled Herrings broiled . Soak them in milk and water, cut off the heads and tails , and ſkin them ; broil them the fame way as the freſh ones under the fame denomination , obferving they do not take fo long time to do ; when ready to ferve, fqueeze the juice of a lemon upon them ; when well foaked , they may be dreffed every reſpect

as the

freſh

in

herrings ; they

may alſo be ſerved with eggs or ftewed greens, dreffed in different manners .

OF

COD.

Morûe frais aux fines Herbs . Fresh Cod with fweet herbs. CUT a ſmall cod in five or fix pieces , bone it, and marinade it in melted butter, the juice of a lemon, chopt parſley, fhallots, and ſweet herbs ; then lay it upon the difh you intend for table, with all the marinade both under and

over,

and ftrew it

over

with

bread-

crumbs ; baſte it with melted butter, bake it in X

322

THE PRACTICE OF

in the oven, and ferve with what fauce you think proper. Hure de Cabiliot aux Huitres.

Cod's Head, with Oyſter-ſauce. CUT the head with as much of the fhoulders as you think proper, tie it up with pack-thread, and put it in a fiſh- kettle that has a falfe bottom, with as much water as will cover it, a handful of falt, and about a pint of vinegar ; put it on the fire ; when it boils, fkim it well ; let it boil flowly for fear of breaking the fkin ; then fcald the oysters in their own liquor, then drain and take off the beards ; ftrain the liquid into a fauce or ſtewpan ; add a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little white-wine , nutmeg, pepper, and falt ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; then add two anchovies chopt, and the oysters ; warm together without boiling, drain and diſh the fiſh, and ſerve ſome of the fauce upon it, and the remainder in a fauce-boat,

Merluche á differentes Sauces. Dried Cod,

or Stock-fifh , Sauces.

with different

BEAT it well with a wooden pellet, upon a wooden block ; then ſoak it in water and greenwood-afhes

about twenty-four hours ,

changing both three or four times ; then waſh it in feveral waters, to get the aſhes out ; then boil it in water until it is tender ; then take it

MODERN COOKERY. 323 it out, drain the water from it, and break it in fleaks ; make a fauce with butter and flour, one clove of garlick pounded, fweet herbs chopt, and cream fufficient to make enough of fauce ; put the fish in it to warm without boiling ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of a lemon. You may alfo ferve it in a puffpaſte cruft, then it is called paté de merluche, viz. dried cod or ſtock-fish pie. You may alfo ſerve it with afpic-fauce, or any other according to taſte and fancy ; it alſo eats very well cold, with oil, vinegar, and ſweet herbs chopt.

Morue á la Capucine. Cod Capuchin-friar faſhion . THE cod being boiled and broke in fleaks. as the preceding, put a piece of butter in a ftew-pan, with one or two cloves of garlick, three cloves, chopt mushrooms, and ſweet herbs ; fry this together a little, then add cream according to the quantity of the fiſh ; boil it about

a

quarter

of an hour, then fift it

through a ſieve, and put the fiſh to it, a piece of butter,

with

and a little fcalded parſley

chopt; fimmer it a little : you may alſo add fliced girkins, muſhrooms, and anchovies, the anchovies and girkins to be added only when ready to ferve.

1

X 2

Morue

324

THE PRACTICE OF

Morue á la Maitre d'Hôtel. Dried Cod, Houſe- ſteward faſhion . PUT ready- boiled ftock-fish, or dried cod, in a ftew-pan,

with a piece of butter, fweet

herbs chopt, pepper, and

nutmeg ; fimmer

it a little ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of a lemon .

Morue á la Jardiniere. Dried Cod, the Gardener's- wife's faſhion . CUT parſley-roots , parfnips , and carrots , in what ſhape you pleaſe ; ftew them in broth, with pepper and falt ; then put them in a ſtewpan, with a piece of butter, and the cod boiled and in fleaks, and a little cream ; when ready to ſerve, add muſtard according to taſte.

N. B. This is called á la Jardiniere, from being dreffed with garden -ftuffs ; and fo all others under the fame denomination . Morue au Beurre noir.

Dried Fish with burnt Butter. THE fish being boiled , break it in fleaks ; put it in a ſtew-pan to warm , with a little broth, vinegar, and a little pepper ; then burn fome butter, diſh the fish, pour the butter over it, and garniſh with fried parſley.

OF

MODERN COOKERY.

325

OF WHITINGS AND MULLETS .

MULLETS are dreffed in every reſpect the fame way as whitings, being much the fame bignefs, and requiring much the fame time in the different manners of dreffing them ; the red mullet is the only one efteemed , the gray being an indifferent tafted fish.

Merlans á lafervante. ' Whitings Servant- faſhion , meaning in a common way .

dreffed

PUT them in a diſh, being well buttered , with all forts of fweet herbs chopt and ftrewed over them ; then fimmer them between two afhes fires , and turn them once or twice ; when ready to ſerve, put them on the tablediſh, with all the fauce and ſweet herbs over them . Merlans á la Sauce á la Morue. Whitings with Cod-fauce. THE whitings being well cleaned and gutted, put in a ſtew-pan fome water and falt, a little parfley, whole fhallots , fliced onions , and roots ; boil thefe together about half an hour ; then ftrain it, and boil the whitings. in it, adding a little milk ; when done, drain . them ; make a fauce with a piece of butter, a little flour, cream , pepper, falt, and two or three ſhallots ; make it pretty thick, take out the ſhallots, and ferve it upon the fiſh . X3 Merlans

1

326

THE

TICE

PRAC

Merlansfrits.

OF

Fried Whitings.

GUT the whitings by the gills , trim and dry them well , bathe them with beat eggs , and roll them in fine bread- crumbs mixed with a very little flour ; fry them with hog's lard of a good colour, and garnish with fried parfley ; ferve with plain butter, or what fauce you think proper, in a fauce-boat.

Quenelles des Merlans . Forced- meat made of Whitings .

BONE the whitings as

clean as

poffible,

fcrape the fish off the fkin, and pound it in a mortar ; ftew fome bread-crumbs in cream until the liquid is quite foaked ; put this in the mortar, with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, green onions, pepper, falt, and the yolks of three or four eggs ; mix all together, then beat up the whites of the eggs to a fnow and put to it : put fome broth in a ftew-pan, and fet it on a ſtrong fire ; when it boils hard , add a little white- wine : then take a little of this forced - meat at once,

and

throw it in the broth, and fo on till it is all in ; take care to turn them about, they require but a few minutes : take them out one by one according as you threw them in ; put them on a fieve to drain , and ferve with a good relishing cullis-fauce .

Matelottes

MODERN COOKERY.

327

Matelottes au Eperlans aux fines Herbs. Matlot of Smelts with fweet Herbs . PUT the fmelts in a ſtew- pan with chopt parfley, ſhallots, green onions , fweet herbs, a little oil or butter, pepper , falt , and a little white-wine ; cover them, and ſtew them on a very flow fire until the liquid is quite reduced ; then drain the fat from them, and ſerve with fauce-hachée , which you will find in Saucearticles .

Eperlans en furtout.

Smelts maſked .

MAKE a fish forced-meat, and put part of it on the diſh

you intend for table ;

put the

fmelts upon this, cover them fingly with the forced-meat in their own form , ftrew them over with

bread-crumbs,

and

bafte them

with melted butter ; bake them in the oven, and ferve fauce .

with a

relishing cullis or wine

Eperlans à la St Menehoult. Smelts St Menehoult-faſhion . THE fmelts being well cleaned , put them in a ftew-pan with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, green onions, fweet herbs , pepper, and falt ; give them a few turns in this over the fire ; then take them out, and add two or three yolks of eggs to the butter ; mix it well together, dip the ſmelts in it, and ftrew them over

with bread-crumbs ; ferve with XA

THE

328

TICE

PRAC

OF

with melted butter and lemon-juice or verjuice, or a reliſhing fauce in a fauce-boat, and garnish with fried parſley.

Eperlans au Fenouil. Smelts with Fennel-fauce. BOIL garlick fine ;

a little in

fennel

water ;

and

one

clove of

then mince them

put in a ſtew-pan a little cullis ,

very two

glafles of white-wine, and a little butter ; boil this together a little, then add the fennel and garlick ; warm it together, and ſerve it under the fried fmelts .

PASTRY.

OF PASTE S.

Páte Feuilletée.

Puff- pafte .

Mix fome flour with cold water, a little falt, and two eggs ; the paſte ought to be as foft as the butter it is made with : in winter, ſoften the butter by ſqueezing it with your hands ; in fummer,

ice

it :

put butter

enough to

make it very rich, and work it out with a rolling-pin feveral times, folding it in three . or four folds each time. Ufe it for any kind of pies or fmall cakes . Another way of making Puff- paſte.

Mix the flour and water, and a little falt, as the preceding ;

put as much butter to it as

MODERN COOKERY.

329

as will make it very rich ; let it ftand a little, then roll it out twice , and let it ftand about ten minutes longer ; then roll it out twice more, and let it ftand ten minutes longer ; then roll it out once more, fold it up, and use it for any thing you think proper.

Pâte á la Graiffe de Boeuf. Pafte made with Beef-fuet. MINCE fome beef-fuet, and melt it in a little water ; then ftrain it into fome freſh water ; when it is cold, take it out, and work, it with your hands, to prefs the water out ; then pound it in a mortar, puting now and then a little oil to it, until it is come to the confiftence of butter : ufe this preparation for any fort of paſte. This paſte is only for eating hot. Pâte à Baignets.

Fritter Pafte or Batter.

MAKE it with fine flour, a little oil and falt, beer or white-wine, one or two eggs , or the whites only, beat up ; it muſt neither be very thick nor very thin, but fo as to drop out of a ſpoon, about the bigneſs of a nutmeg at once ; fry them in hog's -lard .

Pâte à la Royale.

Royal - paſte .

BOIL a pint of water about a quarter of an hour, with fomerafped lemon- peel, two ounces of butter, a piece of fugar, and a little falt ; then add flour to make it pretty thick, work it with a wooden ſpoon on the fire until it quits the

330

THE PRACTICE OF.

the pan ; then take it off, and while it is warm add eggs to it, one by one, until it comes to the confiftence of a puff-pafte , being well mixed ; fry or bake it, as you think proper. Pâte à la Reine.

Queen's Pafte .

THIS is made after the fame manner as the preceding, except you are to uſe cream inſtead of water ; it will not be ſo light, but will have a richer taſte. Pâte à Canellon. A particular Paſte to fry orbake any thing in it. MELT a piece of butter in a little water, with fome rafped lemon- peel and one egg ; then add as much flour as will make it into a firm

pafte,

with as much powder-ſugar as

will ſweeten it properly ; work it well together, and put it to what uſe you think proper.

Pâte au Sucre.

Sugar- pafte .

Mix a pound of flour with a quarter of a pound of butter and as much fugar, a little water, falt, and one egg : this paſte will ferve for any fecond-courſe diſh .

Pâte de Riz.

Rice -paſte.

BOIL fome rice in good broth, until it is very tender ; let it cool ; and in the mean time mix fome flour with three eggs a little water,

and

then pound it in a mortar with

MODERN COOKERY. 331 with the boiled rice and a piece of butter until it is properly mixed : this paſte will ſerve for any forts of cakes .

Pâte à Croquantes. Pafte for Corkants or Ornaments . SIFT a pound of flour and as much fine pounded fugar ;

mix them together,

with

whites of eggs and fome orange-flower water ; the paſte muſt be very firm , roll it in a wet cloth, and put it in a cool place until you have occaſion to uſe it.

Pâte d'Amade.

Almond - pafte .

ACCORDING to the quantity of pafte you intend to make, blanch and peel fweet almonds , and a few bitter ones amongst them ; pound them in a mortar very fine, adding a little whites of eggs to keep them from oiling ; then put them on a middling fire , with two thirds of fugar to one of almonds ; add the fugar by degrees as it mixes with the almonds ;

work

it until the paſte does not ſtick to the pan or your fingers ; turn it into any ſhape, and put it to what uſe you think proper : if too ſoft, add a little ſugar and flour ; if too hard , a few drops offweet wine ; very little heat will dry it. Pâte á la Duchefs.

Pafte Dutcheſs - faſhion .

Mix a pound of flour with fix eggs , half a pound of fugar, a little falt, and as much fweet wine as is neceffary ; the paſte muſt be pretty firm : this pafte may ferve for a number

1

332

THE

PRACTICE

OF

ber of fecond- courſe diſhes , being uſed with any fort of cream or fweet meats . Pâte à la Flamande.

Pafte Flemish- fashion.

BOIL a quart of new milk with a quarter of a pound of butter ; thicken it with flour as you do royal paſte, but put no eggs to it ; work it with the rolling- pin as any other pafte ; it muſt be as thin as half a crown; then cut it in what ſhape you pleaſe ; fry it, and ftrew powdered fugar over, and glaze it with a falamander.

OF PIES THE FRENCH - FASHION .

Páte de Jambon.

Ham- pie .

BONE the ham , and trim it properly ; in the trimming, take care to cut off all the ruſty fat or lean, till you come to the wholſomelooking fleſh : if an old ham, 1 foak it twentyfour hours ; if freſh, fix or eight hours : then braze it with flices of beef, flices of bacon , fome butter and hog's lard , a large faggot offweet herbs , all forts of roots, and whole pepper ; braze it till three parts done ; then let it cool, and put it in a raiſed paſte , with the liquid and a gill of brandy ; bake it an hour, and let it cool before ufing ; if it is to be ſerved hot, fkim off the fat very clean, and ſerve with a relifhing cullis-fauce without falt .

Pâte

MODERN COOKERY.

Pâte de Cochon de Lait.

333

Suckling-pig Pie.

BONE the pig thoroughly ; lard the legs and ſhoulders with bacon , feafoned with ſpices and ſweet

herbs chopt ; put it in a raiſed

cruft of its own length ; feafon it with fpices fweet herbs chopt, and a pound of butter or fcraped bacon ; cover it over with thin flices of bacon ; finiſh the pie, and bake it about three hours ; when near done, add two glaffes of brandy ; let it be cold before uſing.

Pâte de Boeuf. BONE a rump

Beef- pie.

of beef thoroughly, and

lard it through and through with lardons or pieces of bacon , feafoned with all forts of fweet herbs chopt, and all forts of fpices ; put it in a pan much of its bignefs ; cover it with flices of bacon, a large faggot of parfley and fweet herbs , whole onions, fhallots , carrots , parſnips, turnips , celery, a good quantity of butter, and a gill ofbrandy ; ſtew it on a very flow fire until it is quite tender, then let it cool ; then put it in a raiſed or puff- paſte, with the flices

of bacon,

and the braze liquid

without being ſkimmed ; add a piece of butter to nourish it ; cover the pie, and garniſh it according to fancy ; bafte it with eggs , and put it in a middling hot oven ; when the pafte is baked, take it out : if it is to be ferved hot, take out the flices of bacon, fkim the fat very clean off, and

add

what fauce or ragout

334

THE

PRACTICE

OF

ragout you think proper ; if it is to be ferved cold, for fecond-courſe, let it cool as it comes out of the oven , or you may add ſome melted butter. N. B. All pies defigned to be ferved cold, ought be more feaſoned , than for eating hot, as the feaſonings while hot.

have

Pâte de Mouton melé.

a

ftronger

flavour

Mutton-pie mixed.

TAKE part of a leg of mutton, and chop it with other forts of meat, fuch as rabbit, hare,

partridges , veal, freſh

pork, or fuch

meat as is moft convenient, half a pound of beef-fuet minced, chopt ham, fcraped bacon, chopt truffles (if you have any) , the yolks of eight hard eggs ; ſeaſon it with ſpices, ſweet herbs chopt, and three glaffes of brandy ; put it in a raiſed cruft, and bake it in a foaking oven for four hours ; let it be cold before uſing.

Pâte de Veau.

Veal-pie.

ACCORDING to the fize of the pie intended, cut a fillet of veal , and lard it the fame as the beef; feafon it over and over, then put it in a raiſed cruft ; cover the meat with thin flices of bacon and a piece of butter ; then cover it, and garniſh it according to fancy ; bake it three hours in the oven ; when near done, add two glaffes of brandy ; let it cool before ufing. Pâte

MODERN COOKERY,

335

Pâte de Poulardes , Dinons, et autres Volailles. Pies of Fowls , Turkeys, or Wild - fowl .

THEY are all done after the fame manner, obferving the age and fize of each different kind. If a large turkey or fowl, bone it, or only cut out the breaft-bone ; ftuff it with a good ragout,

called falpicon ;

ſeaſon

it the

fame as the preceding ; feaſon ſome flices of veal, and put them in the bottom of the pie, to nourish the fowl or fowls ; cover it with flices of bacon and a piece of butter, finiſh and bake it as all other pies : you may alſo make it without ftuffing . Pâte de Amiens. Pie Amiens -faſhion (Amiens a Town in France famous for Pies .) SINGE, draw, and trufs a couple of ducks as for boiling ; then lard them with bacon rolled in pepper and ſalt, a little nutmeg, cloves , cinnamon , coriander, powder of baſil, thyme, and laurel ; then put them in a good raiſed cruft, with flices of bacon over them, finiſh the pie, and bake it about three hours in a middling hot oven ; it must not have too

much

colour :

when

it

is

near

cold ,

mix half a pound of butter with fome jellybroth and two glaffes of brandy, boil them a little together, and pour it in the pie, and .. ſhake it well : you may alſo braze the ducks before you put them in the pie. Pâte

1

THE

336

CE

PRACTI

Pâte de Perdrix.

of

Partridge-pie.

SINGE, draw, and trufs the partridges as for boiling ; flatten the breaſt- bones ; and make a forced-meat with the butter or ſcraped lard,

livers ,

a

pepper,

piece of

falt,

chopt

parfley, fhallots , winter-favory, thyme, fweet marjoram, and pot ditto ; ftuff the partridges with this, and fry them a little

in butter ;

then put them in a raiſed cruft, upon flices of veal well feafoned ; finifh it as all

others :

when done, ifto be ferved hot , fkim it well, and add a reliſhing fauce ; if for cold, add fome good jelly-broth before it is quite cold.

Pâte de Perdrix á la Choifi. Partridge-pie Choifi -faſhion . Bone as many partridges as you think proper ; chop the bones, and ftew them with a little broth and gravy : take as many fat livers as partridges ; lard them with fillets of anchovies and truffles : then ftrain the liquor from the bones, and mix it with partridges livers chopt, truffles, a piece of butter, pepper, and falt ; ftuff the partridges with this, and put them

in a ſtanding

cruft

(made

as ufual) , with the fat livers between a few whole truffles, a piece of good butter, and flices of bacon over all ; it will require three hours to bake ; when it is almoſt baked, add a little brandy.

This is meant to eat cold .

Pâte

MODERN COOKERY.

337

Pâte de Perdrix à la Perigueux. Partridge-pie Perigueux -faſhion . ( Perigueux a Town in Pergord famous for Pies.) SINGE , draw, and trufs the partridges as for boiling ; make a farcie with their livers , and livers of poultries, chopt truffles , ſweet herbs, fcraped lard or butter, pepper and falt ; ftuff the partridges with fome of this farcie, and lay fome of it in the bottom of the pie ; then lard them with pretty large pieces of bacon rolled in fpices ; then put the birds in the pie upon the farcie, and truffles between them , and a little more feafoning over all, fome butter and fcraped lard mixed together ; cover them with thin flices of bacon , and finiſh the pie according to fancy ; bake it in the oven about three hours ; obferving the direction already given, if it is to be ferved hot or cold.

Pâte des Pluviers, Becaffes, et Becaffines. Pie of Plovers , Woodcocks, or Snipes. SINGE and gut them ; throw the gizzards away ; chop or pound the guts, and make a farcie with them, a

piece of butter, fweet

herbs chopt, pepper, falt, and chopt truffles ; ftuff the birds with this farcie, and finiſh as all others.

Pâte de Faifand.

Pheafant- pie.

SINGE and gut the pheaſant ; trufs it as for Y

CE

CTI

338

THE PRA

OF

for boiling; lard it , and make a ſtuffing with the livers, chopt truffles, a piece of butter, pepper, and falt ; put it in a raiſed cruft, with a piece of butter round it, and with flices of bacon over ; finifh as all others .

Pâte de Lievre.

Hare-pie.

BONE the hare ; cut it in pieces and lard it ; put it in any fort of cruft you think proper, with what kind of forced-meat you pleaſe under and over ; pound the bones, and ftew them in good cullis ; ftrain it, and put it to the pie when cold , and finiſh as ufual.

Pâte de Pigeon.

Pigeon- pie.

SINGE, gut, and trufs your pigeons , as for boiling ; ftuff them with a good forced- meat made of poultry or veal ; lay fome of the forced-meat round them in the difh, they must be pretty high ſeaſoned ; you may also add

truffles,

morels ,

artichokes - bottoms ,

muſhrooms, fat livers, aſparagus -tops , ſweetbreads or not as you think proper, and fome good gravy ; cover it with puff- paſte, and bake it about two hours ; when ready to ferve, you may add any good ragout you pleaſe.

Pâte de Saumon .

Salmon -pie..

LARD your falmon with eel and anchovies , foaked and ſeaſoned with fpices and ſweet herbs chopt ; put it in a raifed cruft or puffpaſte as you think proper ; put butter under and

MODERN COOKERY.

339

and over, with fome of the fame ſeaſoning. Pikes , eels, or any other kind of fiſhes , may be dreffed in

pies after the fame

manner.

Make all pies of this fort pretty reliſhing with lemon : you may alfo make it without larding it as above. Pâte de Soles.

Soal-pie .

BONE the foals , and cut each in four fillets ; marinade them an hour and a halfin lemonjuice, then drain them ; then mix eight pounded anchovies with a pound of butter, half a pound of chopt truffles , and a little powder of bafil ; · lay a down of this preparation in the pie, then fome of the fish, and fo continue, the butter to be the laft ; finiſh the pie, and bake it about two hours . Pâte d'Efturgeon .

Sturgeon - pie.

LARD it with bacon ; then ſeaſon it with falt, fpices ,

and fweet herbs chopt ; put a ient fuffic quantity of butter in the pie accord-

ing to the quantity of fish : if for meager, lard it with eel, and ſeaſon it as above ; you may alſo make it either way, without larding it ; finiſh as all other pies : if to be ſerved hot, fkim the fat off, and add a good reliſhing cullis-fauce.

Y 2

Tour

1

340

THE PRACTICE OF

Tourte des Tendrons de Veau .

Veal-griftle Pie.

[N. B. Pies with raiſed Cruft are called by the French Patés ; and thofe with Puff- paſte, Tourtes. ] ACCORDING to the bignefs you intend the pie, cut the griftles of one or two breafts of veal in middling pieces, and blanch them fome time in boiling water.

Tourte des Filets de Mouton avec Oignons. Pie of Fillets of Mutton and Onions . MAKE a good raw forced-meat ; then cut the fillet of a neck of mutton in thin flices, and a few onions in the fame manner ; put fome of the forced-meat in the bottom of the 1 pie, then fome of the fliced mutton and onions upon it, with a little pepper and falt ; continue in the fame manner, till the pie is full ; then add a piece of butter, with thin flices of bacon over it ; finiſh the pie ; bake it about an hour and a half, or more, according to its bignefs ; when ready to ferve, take out the bacon, and fkim off the fat very clean ; add a little good cullis , with a little muſtard well mixed with it.

Tourte des Filets des Levraux . Pie of Fillets of Leverets . CUT the fillets in pieces of what bigness you think proper ; rub each piece over with

a

MODERN COOKERY. a little butter, pepper, and falt ;

341

put the meat

in the pie, with a little butter under and over, a faggot of fweet herbs, two flices of ham, and thin flices of bacon over all ; finiſh the pie as ufual ; when properly baked , take out the bacon, ham , and faggot, the bones being pounded and boiled in broth and cullis, (as directed in

Game-articles)

to make a good

reliſhing fauce ; ftrain it, and add to the pie, and ferve quite hot, Tourte des Lapreaux. Tourte of Rabbits . CUT the rabbits in pieces ; make a forcedmeat with the livers , fcraped bacon or butter, pepper and falt, all forts of ſweet herbs chopt, a few crumbs of bread, and the yolks of two eggs , with the whites beat to a fnow ; put it in the bottom of your pie, then the rabbits ; finish it, and bake it about two hours ; make a fauce of the heads and trimmings, by ſtewing them with a little cullis , white-wine, a flice of ham, a faggot of ſweet herbs, pepper, and falt ; when ready to ferve, ftrain it, and pour it into the pie.

Tourte de Lapreau au Zephir, Tourte of Rabbit, with a light pafte. CUT a rabbit in pieces as for a fricaffee ; put it in a ſtew-pan, with a piece of butter, whole muſhrooms, and a faggot of ſweet herbs ; foak it on a flow fire until half done ; then add Y 3

3

342

THE PRACTICE oF

add a little white- wine and cullis , with a fcalded fweetbread ; feafon it of a good reliſhing tafte ; let it ftew flowly till done ; at the fame time , while the rabbit is ſtewing , make a good puff- paſte , roll it in two ſheets much of the fame thickneſs ; put one of theſe in a baking-diſh, then put upon it one or two fheets of pepper, and cover it with the remaining pafte ;

pinch them together, as if

the meat was in it ; bafte it with eggs , and bake it ; when it is baked enough, cut off the top pafte, and take out all the doughy paſte, and ferve the rabbit in it . N. B. Zephyr fignifies light as the wind ; and the above is fo called by the French, the doughy pafte being taken out.

Tourte de Godiveau . Veal-cake: ACCORDING to the bignefs you intend the cake, take fillet of veal , calves -udder fcalded , beef- fuet, and the breafts of raw fowls, being all well chopt and pounded ; ſeaſon it with fweet herbs, fhallots, green onions , parfley, all finely chopt,

pepper, falt, nut-

meg, and three raw eggs ; when all is well mixed, make it into the form of faufages or balls ; put them in the pie with a little gravy; finish the pie as ufual, and bake it according to judgment ; when ready to good cullis-fauce.

ferve, add a

N. B. You may alſo add a ragout of ſweetbreads,

1

MODERN COOKERY. 343 breads , truffles , mushrooms, artichokes -bɔttoms , & c . & c.

Tourte de Pigeons.

Tourte of Pigeons.

SINGE, gut, and trufs your pigeons as for boiling ; put fome butter , with pepper and falt, in the infide of each pigeon ; put them in the paſte, and bake them as ufual ; when ready to ferve, take off the top, fkim the fat very clean off, and add a good relishing ragout made of ſweetbreads, fat livers, cockfcombs , muſhrooms, and hard yolks of eggs ; put on the top again . Tourte des Perdreaux .

Tourte of young Partridges. SINGE, gut, and trufs them as the preceding ; ftuff them with forced - meat , made of their livers, chopt truffles or muſhrooms , mixed with a piece of butter,

fweet herbs

chopt, pepper, and falt ; put them in the pie , and bake it about two hours ; when ready to ſerve, add a ragout of truffles , muſhrooms , or any other you think proper.

Tourte des Pecaffes.

Tourte of Woodcocks .

CUT each woodcock in four ; throw away the gizzards ; and pound the infide, to mix with butter or fcraped bacon , ſweet herbs chopt, pepper, and falt ; put this forced-meat in the bottom of the pie, and the woodcocks Y 4 upon

THE PRACTICE

OF

344

upon it ; cover them with thin flices of bacon, and finish it ; bake it about an hour and a half ; when ready to ferve, take out the bacon, fkim the fat very clean off, and add a good reliſhing cullis -fauce . N. B. Becaffines , i. e. fnipes, may be dreffed in the fame manner. Tourte des Viands blanches. Tourte of white Meats. TAKE fowls , chickens , turkey- pouts , ducklings, or any other forts you think proper ; when properly cleaned , cut them in quarters, make

a well feafoned

under and over them

forced- meat to put in the pie, finiſh as

ufual ; when ready to ferve, add what ragout or fauce you think proper. Tourte des Ailerons . Tourte of Pinions of Poultries.

BLANCH the pinions in boiling water, and clean them very well ; then ftew them to three parts, in good broth and cullis , with a ſlice of ham , whole muſhrooms, fweet herbs chopt, a piece of good butter, and thin flices of bacon over all ; then put the puff- paſte in your pie-diſh, then put your compofition in it, with the flices of bacon on the top ; cover it with puff-pafte, and bake it in a middling hot oven ; when it is done, cut the top off, take out the bacon, fkim the fat very clean off,

MODERN COOKERY.

345

off, and add what ragout or fauce you think proper, and put the top on again. Tourte á la Condi.

Tourte Condi-fafhion .

BLANCH fome

large faufages in boiling

water ; cut each in two or three pieces , and fkin them ; then blanch

two

dozen fmall

onions ; boil a piece of pickled pork, until half-done ; put a forced-meat in the bottom of the pie, made of livers of poultries ; put quarters , or piupon this a chicken cut in nions of poultries, blanched and cleaned properly ; upon this lay the pickled pork cut in flices, faufages and onions intermixed with a little pepper and falt, fome good butter, and flices of bacon at top ; finiſh the pie, and bake about an hour and a half ; when done, take off the bacon , and fkim

off the fatt;

make a fauce with fome good jelly-broth, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little boiled chopt parſley, and the juice of a lemon ; when ready to ſerve, put this in the pie. N. B. The flices of bacon in this as well as many other things may (if not liked) be kept out.

Tourte des Sauciffes accompagnée. Tourte of Sauſages garniſhed with other things. BLANCH two dozen fmall onions as the former, and ſauſages the fame way as the laft ; put

a forced-meat of what kind you think

346

THE PRACTICE OF

think proper in the bottom of the pie, and the fauſages upon it, then the onions , intermixed with fliced mushrooms or truffles, a little pepper and ſalt, and ſweet herbs chopt ; cover all over with thin flices of bacon, finiſh as ufual, and bake it about an hour ; when done, take out the bacon , and ſkim the fat very clean off ; when ready to ferve, add a Spaniſh-fauce, or what other you think proper. Tourte de Macaroni au Zephir. Tourte of Macaroni , light Pafte . BLANCH the macaroni in

boiling water,

then ſtew it in good broth and hog's-lard or butter ; when it is tender and thick, add fome Parmefan-cheeſe,

with a little

good

veal-

cullis, and ſerve it in a zephyr or light tourte as already directed .

Tourte des Oeufs.

Tourte of Eggs .

Mix all forts of fweet herbs chopt , with a piece of butter,

pepper, falt, and nutmeg ;

fheet your pie-difh with good puff- paft ; then put the butter and herbs in it, then as many hard eggs cut in quarters as you think proper, with fix or eight raw ones beat up as for an omelet, and a piece of butter ; cover it with the fame paſte as below, and put it in the oven ; when the paſte is done, it is enough ; when ready to ferve, you may add a caper or cream fauce .

Tourte

MODERN COOKERY .

Tourte de Cabilliot.

347

Tourte of Cod.

CUT the cod in middling pieces ; fry it a little in butter, with fweet herbs chopt ; then put it into a bechamel or anchovy fauce or craw -fish cullis , warm it without boiling, and ferve it in a puff- paſte cruſt .

Salt cod is

done in the fame manner, only without falt : the remainder of plain boiled cod , or any other fiſh , will do for thoſe pies , only warming them in what fauce you think proper, and ſerving them in a puff- paſte cruſt. Tourte des Soles.

Tourte of Soals.

USE the fame kind of paſte as the preceding ; put a good forced-meat in the bottom of the pie : if for meager, make it of fish ; if gras, make it of roaſted poultries , or veal

boil the foals a little ;

quarters,

and

cut them in

lay them upon the forced-

meat, with a little pepper, falt, and a piece of butter ; cover it, and put it in the oven ; when the paſte is baked, it is done ; when ready to ferve , add what fauce you think proper. N. B. Mackerels may be done after the fame manner. Tourte des Huitres et de Moules. Tourte of Oyfters or Muſcles . BLANCH the oysters in their own liquor, and

TICE

THE PRAC

348

OF

and beard them ; then mix them with a piece of butter, falt,

and

chopt

parfley,

nutmeg ;

fhallots ,

put them

pepper,

in the

pie ;

when the paſte is baked, they are done ; when ready to ferve, add a bechamel fauce : Muſcles are done the fame way, when well pickled,

one by

one ; you

may alſo ſerve

either with a lemon or verjuice fauce . Petits Pâtes de Godiveau.

Petty Patés with Forced- meat . MAKE

a forced-meat

of fillet

of veal,

calves -udder (firſt blanched in boiling water), beef-fuet, chopt parfley, fhallots , a little bafil, pepper, falt, and two or three eggs according to the quantity of forced -meat ; make a rich puff- paſte, and cut it in the fize of the patémoulds ; rub them with butter, and paſte them ; then fill them with this forced -meat, and cover them with the fame paſte ;

baſte

them with eggs , and bake them in a middling heated oven about three quarters of an hour ; when ready to ſerve, add a little warm cullis, with the juice of half a lemon to them . N. B. You may alſo , inſtead of veal , make` the forced -meat with breafts of raw fowls, or even with thoſe that have ferved at table before .

Petits Pâtes en Sauciffes . Petty Patés in form of Sauſages . MAKE a forced - meat as the

preceding, and

4

MODERN COOKERY.

349

and wrap it up in puff-pafte in the form of fhort fauſages ; then cut fome of the paſte lengthwife , roll it in the form of a ſmall rope to twift round the patés according to fancy, and bake them as the former : theſe differences are proper upon a large table, where two diſhes of the fame preparation are ferved . Petits Pâtes á la Reine.

Petty Patés Queen's faſhion . BUTTER the petty- moulds, and fheet them with good puff- pafte ; fill them with paſte, and cover them with the fame ; baſte them with an egg, and bake them in a pretty quick oven to make the pafte rife the better ; if you fear their taking too much colour, put a sheet of buttered paper over : mince the breafts of roafted turkeys, fowls , chickens , partridges,

hare,

veal,

or

any

thing elſe ;

mix this with fome good cullis á la Reine, warm it without boiling, and let it be pretty reliſhing ; the pafte being done, take off the tops , take out the infide, and fill them with this compofition ; then put on the tops again, and ferve them quite hot. N. B. Petits Pâtes a la Bechamel are done much after the fame manner as à la Reine. They are called after the name of the fauce, which only differ very little in alteration : you will find how to make them in Saucearticles. Petits

THE PRACTICE of

350

Petits Pâtes au Pontife. Petty Patés Pontiff-faſhion . MAKE a little forced- meat with the breaſts of roafted turkeys, fowls,

chickens, or par-

tridges , or the remainder of fweetbreads, with chopt parfley, fhallots, fweet herbs , pepper, falt, and the yolks of one or two eggs, with the whites beat to a fnow; then butter the petty-moulds, and fheet them with good puff-pafte ; put fome of the forced- meat in the bottom of the patés , then fliced truffles and fat livers upon it, with a little butter or fcraped bacon , and the fame forced- meat upon it ; cover them , and bake them about three quarters of an hour ; when done, make a little hole in the top of each paté, and pour a pontiff-fauce in them.

You

may make

Petits Pâtes drefes, viz. raifed cruft, with any forts of meat, either cut in thin flices or minced ; it is the fauce you put to it that gives the name.

In regard to

afparagus, truffles , morels,

or

muſhrooms, any kind of

garden -ftuffs you may make patés of; they are called by the ſubſtance, and not the fauce you add to it. I fhall give no farther directions

about

patés ,

only the

different

names by which they are ferved ; hoping the former explanation may be fufficient, without crowding more repetitions : but for the fake of people unacquainted with the names , and anxious to know whether any thing particular

MODERN COOKERY .

351

cular is meant more than has already been given , and to make all familiar with bills of fare, as great merit is often put upon their being underſtood , they are as follow :

Petit Pâtes Foiés et Lailance, Petty Patés with fat Livers and Fifh-roes. Petit Pâtes á Bechamel, Petty Patés with Bechamel- fauce. Petits Pâtes de Poiffon, Petty Patés of Fiſh of any fort.

Petits Pâtes de Poiffon aux Ecreviffes, Petty Patés with Craw- fifh Cullis .

Petits Pâtes de ce que l'on Veut, Petty Patés of what you think proper. Petits Pâtes á la Choifi, Petty Patés of Sweetbreads. Petits Pâtes á la Perigord, Petty Patés of Forcedmeat with Truffles . Petits Pâtes á la Neffe, Petty Patés of minced Udders , & c. Petits Pâtes à la Mincelle, Petty Patés of minced Meat of any kind .

Petits Pâtes de Gibier, Petty Patés of any kind of Game.

OF

TARTS

AND

OTHER SECOND- COURSE PASTRY .

FRUITS in paſtry are equally (by the French) called Tourtes, as thofe before with Meat.

Tourte das Abricots. Apricot Tart or Pie.

CUT the apricots in two, break the ftones , and take out the kernels ; if the fruit is not ripe enough, flew them a little while in water, then drain them very well, and put them

THE

PRACTICE

of

352 them in puff- pafte, with fugar according to judgment,

a

little

preferved

lemon

min-

ced, and half a kernel upon each piece of apricot ; cover it with the fame fort of pafte as at bottom, bafte it with the white of an egg beat up , and ftrew a little pounded fugar over it to give it a glaze ; about an hour will bake it.

Tourte de Fromboile. Rafpberry-tart. SIMMER the rafpberries a little in a ſyrup ; then let them cool , and finish the tart as the preceding. Tourte de Fraifes á la Glace. Tart of Strawberries and iced Cream . MAKE an almond-pafte, put it in a bakingdifh, and raiſe a border round it ; it requires but a fhort time to bake, and very little heat ; when you are ready to ferve, put ice- cream in it, and the ftrawberries upon it ; it muſt Make the cream as not be iced very hard . follows : Mix three yolks of eggs with a pint of good cream , and ſugar fufficient to ſweeten it properly, a little orange- flower water, and a few pistachio-nuts ; put it over the fire, and keep it ſtiring till it is ready to boil ; then when cold, put it in the mould to

ftrain it ice.

Tourte des Cerifes. Cherry- tart. MAKE a compote (viz . ftewed) of ſtoned cherries

MODERN COOKERY.

353

cherries, with fugar fufficient to ſweeten it properly ; put this in a good puff- paſte, and either cover or croſs -bar it with the fame pafte ; it requires no longer time to bake than is neceffary for the paſte to be done of a good colour : you may alſo make it without either ftoning or ftewing the cherries. '

Tourte de Verjus.

Verjuice-grape Tart.

STONE and blanch the grapes a little in boiling water, then drain them very well, and ſtew them a little while in good ſyrup ; whenthis is cold, put it in puff-paſte, without covering it, and glaze the border with ſugar, Tourte de Mufcat. Muſcado or Sweet-grape Tart. THIS is done much after the fame manner as the former, excepting that the grapes are not blanched, nor fo much fugar or fyrup put to them .

Tourte á la Franchipane. A Tart or Pudding Franchipane-faſhion . (Franchipane, a proper name.)

Mix fix eggs with a pint and a half of good cream ,

three

table-ſpoonfuls

of fine

flour, and as much fine fugar as will fweeten it properly ; boil this about a quarter of an hour, ftirring it continually ; then pound fome almond-biſket, called macaroni drops , and add to it a little lemon-peel Z

minced very fine, a

THE PRACTICE or 354 little

good

butter,

fome

orange- flowers

dried and pounded, or a few drops of orangeflower water ; ſheet your baking- pan with good puff- pafte, put a border round it, and put the cream in it ; you may put a few flowers or bars of paſte over, according to fancy ; ftrew a little fugar over to give it a glaze ; half an hour will bake it.

Tourte á la Moële.

Marrow-tart.

MAKE a cream as the preceding, but inftead of butter ufe beef-marrow melted and ftrained through a fieve : beat the whites of fix eggs to a fnow, add this to the cream, and put it in a puff- pafte ; put no cover on it, only a good high border round : when it is baked , ftrew fome pounded fugar over it , and glaze it with a falamander. Tourte de Piftache.

Piftachio- nut Tart.

Mix a little flour of rice with a pint and a half of cream, a little orange - flower dried and minced, as much fugar as will ſweeten it properly, and a little freſh butter ; put it over the fire, and keep it ſtirring till it boil ; then add the yolks of fix eggs, and two of the whites, half a pound of pounded piſtachio-nuts, and a little preferved citron ; fheet the baking-difh with puff-paſte, and pour the 1

cream in it ; when the pafte is baked , it is enough ; you may ferve it either hot or cold.

Tourte

MODERN

COOKERY.

Tourte des Pommes.

355

Apple Tart or Pie.

PEEL and core the apples, and ſtew them to a marmalade, with a little water, as much fugar as will fweeten it properly, a little cinnamon, and the juice of half a lemon , you may alfo add a little of the rind : when the \ apples are properly ftewed, take out the cinnamon and lemon -peel ; then ſheet your baking - diſh with puff- pafte, put the apples in it, and cover it with the fame pafte ; you may glaze it over with the white of an egg, and a little fugar . Tourte des Poires .

Tart of Pears.

Peel the pears , cut them in quarters , and take out the feeds ; if they are

large and

green , ſtew them to half in water ; then fimmer them a little in fyrup, and bake them in a paſte as the preceding . Tourte des Prunes.

Tart of Plums.

If the plumbs are large, fplit them in two ; put them in a puff-paſte, with a good quantity of fugar both under and over them ; cover with the fame paſte as at bottom , and glaze it, to give it the better look.

In regard

to glazing tarts , it is no further neceffary than agreeable, as many people like the cruft without its being glazed .

Z 2

Tourte

E

356

THE PRACTIC

of

Tourte des Grofeilles vertes . Tart of green Gooſeberries .

WHEN the berries are picked , put them in a puff- pafte, with fugar under and over ; cover them with the fame paſte, which you may glaze or not as you think proper ; you may alſo fimmer them in a ſyrup before they are put in the paſte ; likewiſe you may make them into a marmalade with a good fyrup : this laft I recommend as the beft method ; for by this means you can better judge of the proper fweetneſs they ought to be.

Tourte á la Chapon .

Tart Chapon-faſhion.

TAKE eight eggs and two quarts of new milk, and mix them well together ; then ſtrain it thro' a fieve, and add two fpoonfuls of vinegar ; put it over the fire till curdled ; then ftrain the whey from it, and foak the crumb of a French roll in the whey ; put the drained curd in a mortar, and add to it the French roll fqueezed from the whey, four ratafia biſkets, a quarter of a pound of good freſh butter, as much fine fugar, and a little pounded cinnamon ; pound all well together, adding eight raw yolks of eggs ; then beat the whites to a fnow, and mix them with the reft ; put your ingredients directly in a coffin of puff- paſte, and bake it. N. B. If you

add fome

diced preferved citron

MODERN COOKERY. citron and

orange peel ,

and fome

357 minced

lemon-peel, you will make it more palatable.

Tourte des Trufes á la glace. Pie of Truffles iced. CLEAN a few truffles very well ; then boil them in a pint and a halfof cream, and a quarter of a pound of fugar ; boil it till the cream is reduced to half; take out the truffles , and pound them very fine ; then mixthem with the cream , ice it, and ferve in almond -paſte cruſt. Tourte des Epinards. YOUR fpinage

Spinage- pie.

being well

cleaned , fcald

it in boiling water ; then drain and chop it very well , and ftew it in cream with a piece of butter,

a little falt

and

fugar,

a little preferved citron cut in dices , and a few drops of orange - flower water ; put it in a good puff-pafte, hot.

and bake it ; ferve quite

Tourte de Chocolate. Chocolate-pies . Mix a little flour with a pint of cream , and chocolate in proportion , a little fugar, and four eggs ; boil it about a quarter of an hour, ftirring it continually for fear it fhould catch at bottom; then put it in the pafte, and the whites of four eggs beat to a fnow upon it ; glaze it with fugar, and bake it. N. B. Coffee-pie is made after the fame manner, boiling two or three diſhes of clear Z 3

coffee

ICE

358

THE PRACT

OF

coffee with the cream inftead of the chocolate, as the preceding, they are both to be done without top- crufts .

TARTLETS made with any kind of FRUITS or JELLIES . THESE tarts may be made with any kind of preferved fruits, fuch as have been at table, or fuch as have loft their colour.

For thoſe

made of jelly, bake the cruſt firſt, and let it cool ; then put the jelly upon it : if of different forts, it will look the better .

Tartelettes de Maffepains. Tartlets of Almond-pafte. TURN fome

almond- pafte

into

different

fhapes and fizes ; bake theſe a little in a very flow oven ; when they are cold, fill each with what fort of fruit, jelly, or fweet - meats you think proper. Tartelettes á la Chantilli. Tartlets Chantilly -faſhion ,

PREPARE fome almond- pafte as the preceding ; then mix a quart of cream with a little orange-flower water, a little raſped lemon-peel, and fugar fufficient to fweeten it ; whiſk it up as you do fillabubs , and take off the froth as it is raiſed ; when finiſhed , ice it a little, and ferve it in the tartlets . telettes, i. e. fmall tarts, may be

All Tarmade with

all the different forts of creams, as directed for

MODERN COOKERY .

359

for tourtes or tarts, the difference is only by way of variety on the table : Alfo all creams , as directed here, without fruits , as queen's, craw-fiſh, &c. may ferve upon a difh fingly, or with a low pafte- border round , gives it a better look.

Tartelettes á la Crême.

which

Custard Tartlets .

Mix four eggs with a little flour, a pint and a half of cream , and as much fugar as will ſweeten it properly ; boil this together about a quarter of an hour, ftirring it continually ; then add ſome pounded almond-biſkets, fome rafped lemon-peel,

a little

good

butter,

a

little orange-flower dried and minced, or a few drops of the water ; let

it cool, then

fheet the moulds as for petty- patés, and fill them with the cream ; croſs -bar them , bake them about half an hour, and glaze them with fugar .

FRITTERS,

CAKES , & c,

Riffoles de ce que l'on veut. Fritters of any kind. ROLL fome good puff- paſte very thin , and cut it in pieces ; put in it any kind of cream , ſweet- meats ,

or marmalade, you think pro-

per ; roll them up in what form you pleaſe, and in different fhapes ; fry them in very hot friture ; ftrain fome fine powder - fugar over them , and colour them with a falamander.

Z.A

Soufflets

J

CE

360

THE PRACTI

Soufflets .

OF

Puff- cake.

MAKE fome good puff- pafte, roll it pretty thick, and cut it in fix pieces or more all of the fame bignefs ; lay one piece in a deep bakingdifh , upon it fweet-meats or prepared cream of any kind,

or marmalade,

then

another

piece of pafte, then fome more fweet- meats , marmalade, or cream ; and fo on , as many as you pleaſe, the pafte to be the laft ; in which make a little hole, which you fill with fweet-meats or jelly : it muſt be baked in a pretty hot oven, to raiſe the paſte properly : you may alſo bake the paſte upon a bakingplate, and put fweet-meats, marmalade, &c, to it when cold .

Petites Corbeilles de Maffepains á la Glace. Small Buckets of Almond- paſte with IceCream .

MAKE fmall buckets of almond- pafte in fmall

moulds

like petty-patés ,

baſkets of common

pafte

large

and

make

enough to

hold the buckets ; join the handles with caramel

fugar,

after they

covers for the buckets

are

baked ;

make

of the fame pafle :

when ready to ferve, fill the buckets with iced cream of any kind, and put them in the baſkets, and cover them : you may form this paſte into what figure you pleaſe ; one's own imagination in this is the beſt rule ; it may be made in the form of fruits , fnuff- boxes , &c. and

MODERN COOKERY.

361

and may be ſerved for fecond - courfe diſhes , in its natural colour , or for deffert painted .

Gateau de Savoy.

Savoy- cake.

ACCORDING to the bigneſs you intend the cake, take an equal weight of eggs and fugar, and half as much weight of flour as of eggs ; ſeparate the yolks and whites ; pound and fift the fugar ; add it to the yolks , being firſt well beat, with fome lemon -peel minced very fine, powder of orange- flowers , or a ſpoonful of the water ; beat theſe very well together, adding the flour by degrees ; then beat the whites to a fnow, and mix them gently with the reft; rub the mould you intend to bake it in with butter, and pour your compofition into it ; bake it in a foaking oven about an hour and a half : if it is of a good colour, you may ſerve it without garnishing ; and if not, as it may be too pale or too brown , glaze it with a white-fugar glaze or with nonpareils . Bonnet de Turquie á la Glace, Turk's - cap with Ice- cream . MAKE a paſte or batter as the former ; butter the turk's-cap , pour the paſte into it, and bake it as ufual: when it is cold, cut off the top gently, and take out a good deal of the infide ; which dry in the oven, till it can be reduced to powder or crumbs : boil a pint and a half of cream, and fugar according to judgment ;

362

THE PRACTICE

OF

judgment ; reduce it to half, and add the crumbs to it ; mix it well , then ice it to fuch a degree, that you may put it in the cap, and cover it with the top to hide the cream ; you may garniſh the outſide as you think proper, or ferve it plain.

Bonnet de Turque en Surprife. Sham Turk's -cap. RUB the cap-mould with butter, and bake a pretty thick almond - paſte in it ; be careful how you take it out ; garnish between the ribs with jelly of different colours , and have a paſte of the fame fort for a bottom with different preſerved fruits. Gateaux en Turbans. Turban- cakes . THIS is the fame compoſition as the firſt Turk's-cap, only baked in ſmall moulds , ribbed in the fame manner as the large ones, and ferved in their natural colour .

Bonnet

aux pistaches are done the fame way,

only

adding what quantity of pounded pistachionuts you think proper when your are mixing the other ingredients.

Gateau de Bourneville. A Cake named after the place moſt in repute for this fort. MIX fix eggs with half a pound of flour, fome raſped lemon - peel, a few drops of orange-flower water, and a little falt ; then let

MODERN COOKERY.

` 363

let it reft an hour ; then work it well with half a pound of butter, bake it in a mould or hoop, and garnish it or not as you think proper. Gateaux á la Madeleine. Common fmall Cakes .

To two pounds of flour, put two pounds of butter, twelve eggs, a pound and a half of fugar pounded and fifted , two glaffes of

water,

fome

fome dried

rafped

lemon - peel,

orange- flowers ;

and

work it well

together ; then cut it in pieces of what bignefs you think proper, form theſe into cakes , and bake and glaze them with fugar.

Gateaux de Niauffles. Small Cakes named after the place moſt in repute for them . MAKE fome good puff- paſte , roll it about half an inch thick, and cut it in lozenges or figures the bigneſs of the palm of your hand ; baſte them

over with yolks of eggs, and

ftrew macaroni drops, made into powder, over them ; then flice fome blanched almonds, and ſtick them in the lozenges : when they are baking, cover them with paper to keep them of a pale colour.

Gateaux en Feuillage. Feuillage, a rich Puff-pafte, that ſcales off in leaves. MAKE

fome good puff-paſte,

cut it in lozenges

THE PRACTICE OF 364 lozenges or what form you pleaſe, and bake them fingly upon a baking- plate ; then ſerve fix or eight pieces, one upon another, in the form of a fugar-loaf, with a fugar glaze.

Gateaux d'Amandes .

Almond- cakes .

POUND a pound of fweet almonds with a dozen of bitter ones very fine , adding a little whites of eggs to hinder them from turning to oil ; then add half a pound of pounded fugar by degrees, two eggs, and fome rafped lemon-peel ; when this is properly mixed, add eight eggs , the whites and yolks firſt beat up ſeparately ; mix all together, butter the mould, and pour it in it; bake about an hour and a half in a foaking oven; ferve it in its natural colour.

Gateau d'Amandes en une autre façon . Almond- cake another faſhion . TAKE a pound of flour, a pound of ſweet almonds and fix bitter ones, with a pound of fugar pounded and fifted,

and twelve eggs ;

work theſe well together, form it into a cake, and bake it on buttered paper ; when cold, glaze or not as you think proper.

Gateau á la Polonoife.

A Cake Poliſh-faſhion.

Mix two handfuls of flour with a quart of cream,

a pound

of

beef-fuet melted and

fifted, half a pound of fugar, a pound of raifins ftoned and chopt, dried orangeflowers,

MODERN COOKERY.

365

flowers, two glaffes of brandy, a little coriander and falt ; bake it about an hour and a half; when cold , glaze or garniſh it . Gateau au Sultan.

Cake Sultan -faſhion .

BOIL a pint of water a little while, with a quarter of a pound of butter, as much fugar as will ſweeten it properly, fome raſped lemon-peel, a little beat cinnamon ,

and falt ;

mix it with flour until it is pretty thick, turning and ſtirring it continually, until it quit the pan ; take it off, and, while it is warm, put fix or eight eggs to it one by one, mix it very well, and add fome orange- flowers finely chopt ; when it is ready for the oven , ftrew the top with Pistachio- nuts , mixed with whites of eggs and fugar .

Gateau de Compiegne. Cake Compiegne - faſhion. TAKE half a pound of flour, and of one third of it make a leaven with a ſpoonful of yeft and a little warm water ; keep it in a warm place for half an hour ; then mix the remainder of the flour with eight eggs, half a pound of butter, a little falt, and lemonpeel ; work all theſe well together ; then add the leaven, and work all well together ; wrap it in a cloth, and let it reft two or three hours before uſing : then make a mould with ſtrong paper, in form of a muff ; butter the infide well,

366

ICE

THE PRACT

OF

well, and fill it with this pafte ; when baked, take off the paper , rub it all over with whites of eggs, and ftrew it with nonpareils . Gateaux á la Bechamel.

Bechamel- cakes.

BOIL a pint and a half of cream , with two of fweet almonds pounded, and a

ounces

little coriander-feed ; then ftrain

it, mix it

with about a pound and a half of flour, four or five eggs , and half a pound of butter ; finiſh it as all other paſtes , and make it in cakes what ſhape and bigneſs you think proper.

Gateaux au Ris .

Rice- cakes .

TAKE half a pound of rice, and boil it in good broth ; when it is cold, mix it with as much flour as rice, half a pound of butter, three eggs , and a little falt ; make this into a good puff- pafte, and form it into cakes ofwhat fhape and bignefs you pleaſe ; rub them over

1

with eggs before baking, to give them a good colour ; ferve hot. Gateau de Piftache.

Pistachio -nut Cake.

THIS is made the fame way as the almondcake, only almonds.

uſing Pistachio- nuts

Gateaux de Verjus.

inſtead of

Cakes of Verjuice -grapes.

USE fuch moulds as for petty- patés , fheet them with puff-pafte , and fill them with preferved

MODERN COOKERY . ferved verjuice-grapes ;

367

cover them with the

fame paſte, wet the the borders with water, and pinch them all round ; when the paſte is baked, they

are

them with fugar, colour.

enough ;

you

may glaze

or ferve in their natural

N. B. You may make theſe forts of cakes with any fort of preſerved fruits .

Timbales. A Mould fo called , being in the ſhape of a Kettle-drum .

こ

It is only the form which makes the difference between theſe and the preceding ; as they are filled with preſerved fruits or ſweetmeats after they are baked , covered over, and glazed with fugar.

Ramequins . Cheese -cakes . ACCORDING to the quantity of ramequins you intend to make, take good Parmefan, Swifs, or Chefhire cheeſe, or you may mix them together ; melt this in a ftew- pan with a bit of butter and a little water ; then add as much flour as will make it pretty thick; turn and ſtir it continually, until it quits the fides of the pan ; then put it into another pan, and put eggs to it one by one, mixing it well with a wooden ſpoon until it becomes pretty clear and light ; then add two chopt anchovies, and a little pepper ; bake them fingly upon a bakingplate, or in frames or paper-cafes of what ſhape

CE

CTI

THE PRA

368

OF

ſhape you pleaſe ; they require but a fhore time in a flow oven : ferve them quite hot. Ramequins voles au Vent. Cheeſecakes light as to fly with the Wind.

MAKE the paſte as the preceding ; only put in the yolks of eggs, and beat up the whites alone ; which when properly fnowed, add them to the paſte, and mix all together ; then take fome good puff- pafte, roll it very . thin, cut it in little pieces, and wrap a little of the compofition in each piece ; pinch them all round, bake them about a quarter of an hour, and ferve them quite hot, Ramequins en une autre façon . Cheeſecakes made another way. GRATE about half a pound of Parmeſancheeſe, and mix it with the yolks of fix eggs and a quarter of a pound of good

butter

melted ; beat up the whites to a fnow, and add them when you are ready to put the cake in the oven ; bake them in buttered-frames or cups, a little time will bake them ; ferve quite hot,

Bifcotins.

Small Biſcuits .

TAKE a pound of flour, half a pound of fugar, and as much marmalade ; mix thefe together, add as many whites of eggs as will make it into a pretty ſoft paſte, and form it into ſmall biſcuits of what fhape you pleafe. Gateau

MODERN COOKERY.

Gateau au Clenquant.

369

Tinfel-cake.

MAKE the fame compofition as directed for favoy- cake ; make five or fix large papercafes , a fheet to each, the infides well bafted with

melted

butter ; then

pour the above

compofition into them , and bake in a middling hot oven ; when baked , take them out ofthe paper while hot, and cut one to the largenefs of the bottom of the diſh you intend to ferve them on ; the reſt muſt be cut fmaller and ſmaller to finish in the form of a fugarloaf, and hollow in the middle ; folder each piece with fugar-caramel ; when it is finiſhed, pour fome of the caramel round it, to make it look as if tied with pack-thread .

Talmoufes Cheeſecakes of different kinds from Ramequins , 1 with a little water, of BOIL half a pint as much thicken with it butter and falt ; flour as it will take, ftirring it conftantly on the fire until it quit the pan ; then put it in another pan, and put eggs to it one by one ; make it to the confiftence of a thick batter ; then mix fome new cream- cheeſe or curd with it, bake it in puff- paſte , and baſte the top with yolks of eggs ; ferve either hot or cold.

A ǎ

Talmouſes

1

THE

PRACTICE OF

370

Talmoufes de St Denis . Cheeſecakes St Dennis-faſhion . Mix a quarter of a pound of flour , with a pound of well

drained

curds ,

a little

falt ,

eight eggs , and finiſh as the preceding . N. B. St Dennis, the place famous for theſe cakes.

Flan.

A large Cuſtard .

ROLL a piece of paſte pretty thick, to the fize of the diſh you intend for table : raiſe a border round it about an inch high ; or iffor fmall cuſtards , in proportion ; and fill it to about three parts, with the fame compofition as the preceding ; about half an hour will bake it. Gobelets á la Moëlle.

Marrow- tumblers .

Mix three eggs with a pint of cream, a little flour , and as much fugar as will ſweeten it properly ; boil this together, ftirring it continually ; then add fome

pounded almond-

bifcuits, called macaroni- drops, a little raſped lemon-peel , fome orange- flowers minced very fine, and a little

beef- marrow melted and

ftrained through a fieve ; then beat the whites of four eggs to a fnow, and mix them gently with the rest ofthe ingredients ; rub the infide of the moulds with butter, they ought to be plain, and about two inches deep, but may alfo be done with others ; fill them to three parts full of the above compofition , and bake them

MODERN COOKERY.

371

them in the oven ; ferve plain , or garniſhed with nonpareils, as you think proper:

Genoifes.

Olive-fritters .

TAKE á piece of puff- pafte, roll it very thin, cut it in ſmall pieces, and put marmalade

ftewed apples in each piece ; wet the

borders with yolks

of eggs or

water, and

pinch them clofe ; fry of a good colour ; you may alſo glaze them brown or white. Different Second- courſe Diſhes of BISCUITS.

WITH the compofition of favoy-bifcuits , you may make what kind of ſmall paſtry you pleaſe ; it is the form and moulds which give the name : you may glaze them with fugar,

or garnish with

nonpareils ;

when

baked of a fine colour, they are moſtly ſerved plain . Canellons. Bifcuit in form of a Cane or ſmall Gun .

MAKE a pretty hard paſte with about half a pound of flour, and half as much fugar, two eggs , fome rafped

lemon - peel, a little

melted butter, and two or three ſpoonfuls of water; roll it very thin ; then make little canes of card-paper, butter them well on the outfide , and wrap them in fome ofthe paſte cut for that purpoſe ; bake them a few minutes , then take the papers out, and fill the paſte with currantjelly or marmalade . A a 2

Echaudes.

372

THE PRACTICE OF

Echaudés.

Dumpling Pafte.

MAKE a pafte with flour, milk, a little falt, and yeft ; let it ſtand ſome time in a warm place to ferment ; then cut the paſte in pieces of what bignefs you think proper, and boil them about half an

hour ;

let them cool ;

then cut each in two , and foak them an hour in milk, fugar, and lemon - peel ; then drain and flour them to fry; you may alfo dip them in melted butter, and broil ; ferve with a fauce, made with beat butter, fugar, and white-wine.

OF CREAMS, GARDEN - STUFFS , &c.

Crême en Quadrille. Cream of four fquares or partitions. MAKE a little hard pafte, with flour, a little fugar, and white- wine ; make a border of part of it round the diſh you intend for table , and four partitions of what ſhape you pleaſe ; rub the bottom with yolks of eggs to make the paſte ſtick ; bake it a little ; then boil a pint of cream with fugar and lemon- peel ; mix part of it with boiled chocolate and the yolks of three

eggs,

which

you

put

in one partition ; alfo one part mixed with caramel-fugar, and put it in the partition over againſt the first ; add four or five yolks of eggs to the remainder to fill the two others, and

MODERN COOKERY.

373

and ftrew nonpareils upon one of them : you may alſo fill the partitions with any forts of creams, being of different colours .

Créme au Chapelet. Cream Chaplet or Bead Faſhion. TAKE a pint of cream, and fet it over the fire ; when it boils , add a bit of cinnamon, lemon-peel, a little coriander-feed, and as much fine fugar as will ſweeten it properly ; reduce it about one

third , then add the fkin of a

fowl's gizzard chopt very fine, and ſtrain it through a ſtamine into the diſh you intend for table ; put it over an afhes-fire, or a pan of boiling water ; cover it with a brazing - pan with a little fire upon it, and let it ſtand until it thicken ; then prepare a border for the diſh, with ſome pounded chocolate, and a ſpoonful of gum-dragon melted and ſtrained through a cloth ; add fine fugar to it until it become a hard pafte ; then roll it in ſmall beads , and put them to dry ; the cream being finiſhed, join the beads together with carameled-ſugar in the form of croffes, or any other figure you pleaſe, and make them to ftand up round the

cream . Créme á la Sultan.

Cream Sultan-fafhion.

PUT a pint of cream to boil , with a piece of fugar and lemon-peel ; reduce one third , and put it to cool ; when half cold, add a little Aa 3

374

THE PRACTICE OF

little flour and the yolks of five or fix eggs ; ftrain it through a fieve on the table- diſh, and bake it as the preceding :

when

half

done, put fome preferved orange- flowers upon it, fo as to appear when it is done. Créme à l'Abbeffe.

Nun's Cream ,

BOIL a pint of cream with cinnamon, coriander, lemon - peel, and fugar ; reduce it to one third part ; then mix the yolks of fix eggs with it, and ſtrain it through a fieve ; then add fome preſerved citron, a few macaroni-drops bruifed , fome burnt orange - flowers, a little pounded chocolate, and finish it between two flow fires. Crême à la Mariée.

Bride- cream .

BEAT up the yolks of fix eggs and two of the whites , with a little flour, fome raſped lemon- peel, a few orange-flowers minced very fine, a little

chocolate and macaroni-

bifcuit as the laft, a pint of cream , and fugar to tafte ; boil it about a quarter of an hour, ftirring it continually; then pour it on the tablediſh, and colour the top with a falamander.

Créme frite.

Fried Cream .

BOIL a pint of cream , with a bit of cinnamon, lemon- peel, fome coriander- ſeed , and fugar to tafte ;

reduce it above one third ;

then beat up the yolks of eight eggs and mix with it, and ftrain it through a fieve ; bake as

MODERN COOKERY.

375

as all others , only rather more ; when cold , cut it in little fquare pieces, or any other ſhape you pleaſe ; flour and fry them ; glaze them with fugar,

and colour them with a

falamander. Another fried Cream . Beat up fix eggs with two or three ſpoonfuls

of flour, half a pint of cream , a few

macaroni-biſcuits , preferved citron and lemonpeel cut in dices , and fugar to taſte ; boil all together,

ftirring

continually ;

when quite

thick, flour the bottom of a diſh, and drop it in ſmall ſpoonfuls , feparately, upon the floured dish, and flour them over again ; when cold, fry them as the laft ; you may glaze fome, and ſerve the reſt plain. Créme legere.

Light Cream .

BOIL a pint of cream until it is reduced about on third, with a quarter of a pound of fine fugar ; then take it off the fire , and add a few almond-bifcuits pounded, a piece of lemon-peel chopt very fine, and the whites of five or fix eggs well beat ; pour it in the table-diſh , and bake it between two fires , as has been already directed ; if it is not coloured enough, colour it with a falamander ; it ought to be a fine brown, and not too much done, but to fhake like a jelly.

Aa4

Crême

376

THE

ICE

PRACT

OF

Créme veloutée. Rich or velveted Cream . THIS is the fame cream as directed in the fecond cream chaplet-faſhion ; only it is ferved in the table difh, without any border or garniſhing, and kept

very white in the

baking. Créme brûlée.

Burnt Cream .

Mix the yolks of fix eggs and three of the whites, with two fpoonfuls of flour , fome almond-biſcuits, preferved citron, and orangeflowers, all finely minced, a pint of cream, and fugar to tafte ; boil it about a quarter of an hour on a flow fire, ftirring conftantly ; when it is pretty thick, pour it on the tablediſh, and make a

caramel

with fugar and

water ; when it is of a fine cinnamon colour, pour it gently round and over the cream ; if you want it of a higher colour, you may brown it with a falamander,

Créme au Caramel, Cream with carameled Sugar. BOIL a pint of cream about a quarter of an hour, with fome coriander-feed, and a piece of lemon-peel ; ftrain it, and make a caramel as directed for the preceding ; when it is of a good colour, mix it with the cream; boil it a very little ; then add the yolks of fix eggs beat up with

MODERN COOKERY.

377

with a little flour, boil it a little, and finiſh it between two flow fires. Créme á la Reine.

Queen's Cream .

BOIL a pint and a half of cream ,

with

fugar to taſte, and a little orange- flower water ; reduce it to one third part ; when near cold, mix it with the whites of eight eggs , beat up to a fnow ; bake it between two fires ; ferve it in its natural colour.

Créme au Blanc-mangé. White- eating Cream. BLANCH, hufk, and pound a handful of fweet almonds, with the breaſt of a roaſted fowl, the yolks of five or fix eggs , a little good white cullis , fome coriander -feed, and a little fugar boiled in two or three ſpoonfuls of water ; then ſtrain it through a ftamine two or three times, and bake it as ufual.

Créme des Oeufs á l'Eau. Eggs and Water Cream. BOIL a pint and a half of water flowly for a quarter of an hour, with a piece of lemonpeel, cinnamon, and fome coriander-feed, a little preſerved citron and orange - peel , and a little fugar; let it be almoft cold, then add the yolks of feven eggs and a little flour beat up together ; ftrain it through a ſieve, and bake it between two fires ; when ready to ſerve, glaze with fugar,

and a falaman-

der, Créme

E

THE PRACTIC

378

Créme Bacchique .

OF

Bacchus Cream.

BOIL a quart of fweet-wine about half an hour,

with

a

little

then

fugar ;

beat the

yolks of fixteen eggs very well ; bake it as uſual , and ice it after ; you may alſo ſerve it without being iced .

Créme des Ecreviffes.

Craw-fish Cream .

BOIL a pint and a half of cream with fome fine fugar, and reduce it about a third part ; then pound the carcaffes of fix or eight crawfiſh, and put to the cream, with the ſkin of a fowl's gizzard,

for

about

a

quarter of an

hour ; then ſtrain it feveral times through a cloth, rubbing it with a wooden ſpoon ; bake as ufual , and ferve it in its natural colour.

Créme á la Bourgogne . Cream Burgundy -fashion . BOIL three half-pints of new milk, with a little orange-flower water, fome fugar and a piece of lemon ; and boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a little water, till it is very tender and thick ; then add the milk to it, by little and little, until all is boiled quite thick ; then ftrain it through a ftamine ; then beat the whites of eight eggs to a fnow, and mix them well with the rice ; put it on the tablediſh, and bake it in a flow oven ; when ready

MODERN COOKERY.

379

ready to ferve, glaze it with fugar and a falamander. Créme de Ris au Bouillon . Rice Cream ftewed with Broth. STEW a quarter of a pound of rice in good broth until it is very tender ; when halfboiled , add a little coriander-feed , three bitter almonds firft pounded , and fome good cullis ; boil all together for fome time, then ftrain it through a ftamine : then mix it with the yolks of fix eggs , bake it in a flow oven, and ſerve hot.

Créme á la Nourrice. Cream Nurſe-faſhion. MIX the yolks

of eight

whites, with a little

eggs and two

flour, about a pint of

cream , a few almond-biſcuits pounded , citron and orange flowers, and ſugar to tafte ; boil all together, ftirring conftantly ; when it is pretty thick, pour it on the table- diſh, fimmer it on a flow fire or in the oven to make it catch a little, and colour the top with a falamander.

Créme à la Ducheffe .

Cream Duchefs -faſhion .

BOIL a pint of cream with a piece of lemon-peel , and fugar to tafte ; when it is and a near 'cold , mix it with fix yolks of eggs little flour ; ftrain it through a fieve upon the table - diſh , and bake it between two flow fires or

CE

380

THE

CTI

PRA

OF

or in the oven ; when ready to ſerve, baſte it with whites of eggs , ftrew ſome powderfugar

over,

and

glaze it

with a falaman-

der.

Créme des Herbages de ce que l'on veut. Cream with Garden - herbs of what kind you pleaſe . BOIL a quart ofcream, with fugar fufficient to ſweeten it, and reduce it about one third ; a little before you take it off the fire , put what herbs you think proper, to be in it juft long

enough to give it the taſte of them ,

as tea, chervil, tarragon, celery ,

anife -feed ,

parfley, & c.; then mix the yolks of eight eggs with a little flour, and add to it ;

mix

them well together, ftrain it through a fieve upon the table- diſh, and bake it between two fires or in a flow oven : it is called by the name of the feeds or herbs that are in it. Crême de Chocolate.

Chocolate -cream .

BOIL a quart of good cream with a quarter of a pound of pounded chocolate, and add fugar in proportion as the chocolate requires ; reduce it one third ; then beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and add to it ; mix them very well together, and bake it between two flow fires, without any border. Créme de Caffe.

Coffee- cream .

Mix four cups of good coffee, with three half-

MODERN COOKERY.

381

pints of cream, and fugar according to taſte ; boil it together, and reduce it about one third ; then add the yolks of eight eggs beat up, mix it very well, and bake as the preceding. N. B. Obſerve, that the coffee muſt be done as if it was for drinking alone , and ſettled very clear.

Crême au gratin. Gratin-cream. (Gratin means any thing that catches or fticks to the bottom .) MIX eight eggs with a little flour, and beat it very well ; then add fome almond-bifcuit,

chopt citron,

orange-flowers ,

a pint of good cream, and fugar to tafte ; put the difh on a pretty ſmart fire, and pour the cream in it by little and little, to catch at bottom without burning, it only requires proper attention to make a very palatable cream ; when done, glaze the top with fugar and a falamander.

Créme á la Dauphine. Cream Dauphin-faſhion . Mix the yolks of eight eggs with a little flour, a piece

of citron cut in dices, fome.

pounded almond-bifcuits, orange- flowers , and a pint of very rich cream : boil it about a quarter ofan hour ; and if it becomes too thick . in the boiling, add a little more cream : when it is almoſt cold, beat up the whites offour or five eggs to a fnow, and add to it ; then pour

part

CE

382

THE

CTI

PRA

OF

part of the cream upon the dish, next flices of favoy or fpunge- biſcuits, then cream , and ſo on, the cream to be the laſt ; bake it in the oven ; when done, glaze it with a little fugar and a falamander. Créme de Vermicelli.

Vermicelly-cream .

BOIL fome vermicelly in milk until it is reduced to a marmalade ; when cold, mix it very well with a pint of cream , fome chopt lemonpeel, a few pounded almond- biſcuits, orangeflowers, a little pounded cinnamon , fix eggs well beat, and fugar according to tafte ; pour it on the dish, and bake it in a flow oven . Crême de Ratafia.

Ratafia-cream.

BOIL three half- pints of cream, with fix laurel-leaves , a quarter of an hour ; then beat the yolks of fix eggs with a little cold cream , and as much fine fugar as will fweeten it properly ; mix all together ; put it over the fire, ftirring it conftantly one way until it is near the boil, but not to boil , otherwiſe it will curdle ; then fift it through a fieve upon the table-diſh, and ferve cold .

Créme des Amandes.

Almond- cream .

TAKE three half- pints of good cream , and boil it with a piece of lemon -peel, cinnamon, half a nutmeg grated , and as much fine fugar as will ſweeten it according to taſte ; then blanch three ounces of fweet- almonds , and pound them

MODERN COOKERY.

383

them very fine, with orange-flower water to keep them from oiling ; then beat up the whites of eight eggs, and mix with the almonds, rubbing them through a ſtamine or hair-fieve ; mix all together with the cream,、 and fet it over the fire, ftirring it conftantly until it comes to the boil ; then put it on the table-diſh, and ſerve cold. Crême de Citron .

Lemon- cream .

TAKE four good lemons, pare them as thin as poffible, and ſteep them four hours in a pint of water with the juice of the lemons ; then beat up the whites of eight eggs and the yolks of three, and mix them with the water and lemon-juice ; then ftrain it into a fewpan, with double- refined fugar to tafte ; put it over the fire, ftirring it conftantly until it is near the boil ; then pour it into the tablediſh .

You may alfo make orange- cream the

fame way. Créme des Grofeilles.

Goofeberry- cream .

BOIL about a pint of cream, then mix it with the yolks of fix eggs , and fugar according to tafte ; put it over the fire until it comes to the boil, and fet it to cool ; then take a quart of goofeberries , put as much water to them as will cover them, and fet them to boil ; then ftrain and rub them through a fieve ; when cold, mix them and the cream together, and put it on the table-diſh . Baignets

THE

384

PRACTICE

OF

Baignets des Pommes en Piédeftaux. Apple-fritters on Pedeſtals .

PEEL eight or ten good baking apples , and cut each in two ; if fmall ones, leave them whole : take out the pippins with a gorer ; marinade them

about two hours in brandy ,

ſugar,

lemon-peel, and a little orange- flower water ; drain, flour, and

fry them in hog's - lard ; glaze them with pounded fugar, and a hot falamander : the pedeftals are made of puffpaſte, cut in little pieces of what ſhape you think proper, and baked, raiſe them properly upon each other, intermixed upon the diſh as you pleaſe.

Baignets des Pommes en Surprise. Apple-fritters maſked .

BOIL as may apples as you think proper, cut them in two , and hollow them in the infide ; marinade them as the preceding ; when ready to fry, fill the hollows with marinade or currant-jelly, wrap each piece in a bit of thin puff-pafte, and fry them of a fine brown colour ; proper.

glaze them or

not as

you

think

Baignets des Pommes á la Mariée. Apple-fritters Bride-faſhion .

PEEL and gore the apples, and cut each in five or fix round flices ; marinade them as the pre-

MODERN COOKERY.

385

preceding, and dip them one by one in a batter made of cream , flour, yolks of eggs, fugar, and white-wine ; fry them of a good colour, and glaze them , or ferve plain as you think proper. Baignets des Pommes en une autre façon. Apple-fritters done in another faſhion . PEEL and gore fix apples, and cut them in flices about the thickneſs of half a crown ; dip theſe in a batter made of flour, a little one egg, fmall beer, and two table-

falt,

fpoonfuls of oil ; fry them of a good colour, and grate fome fine fugar over them ; ferve them quite hot .

Baignets des Peches et des Abricots. Peach or Apricot Fritters . PEEL and marinade them in the fame manner as the apples ; you either wrap them in a very thin paſte, or dip them in batter made with a little flour , one egg, fugar and whitewine, or only flour them, and fry them of a good colour, rafp fome fine fugar over them , and ſerve quite hot. Baignets á la Dauphin. Fritters Dauphin -faſhion.

MAKE a paſte with an flour

and fugar,

biſcuits ,

fome

equal quantity of pounded

almond-

a piece of lemon- peel, and a few orange-flowers minced very fine ; mix it with whites Bb

386

THE PRACTICE OF

whites of eggs until it fiftence

comes to the con-

required, which is to be just hard

enough to bear working with a rolling-pin ; let it cool to harden , then cut it in what ſhape or form you pleaſe with moulds of any kind of flowers ; fry them of a good colour ; ferve plain, or glaze them with fugar as ufual . Baignets des plufieurs façons. Fritters of different forts . TAKE about a pound of good freſh curds, and mix it with fix eggs well beat , a little falt and fugar, a pint of good cream , and as much flour as will make it pretty thick ; put it over the fire, ftirring it continually ; when become quite thick, flour a diſh and ſpread it upon it, then duſt ſome flour over ; let it cool ; then cut it in pieces of what ſhape you think proper, fry thefe of a good colour, and glaze them or not as you pleafe ; you may alſo mix pounded almonds, pistachio-nuts , preferved citron or orange, or any thing elfe ; whichever of theſe you mix it with , gives the name.

Baignets des Amandes.

Almond-fritters .

BLANCH a quarter of a pound of ſweet almonds and four bitter ones, a little rafped lemon-peel, and a few orange-flowers, with fugar according to judgment, and two or three whites of eggs ;

pound all together, adding a few drops of water, or more whites of eggs, to make it of a proper fwackneſs to roll

MODERN COOKERY.

387

roll in little balls, and fry them of a fine brown

colour ; when ready to ſerve, raſp fome fine fugar over them.

Baignets à l'Italien . Fritters Italian - faſhion .

BOIL three or four tender in milk ;

ounces

when it is

of rice very pretty thick,

add a little falt, fine fugar to ſweeten it according to tafte, fome preferved orangeflowers, a little rafped lemon -peel . half a handful of flour, four eggs, three ounces of currants, and three good apples, peeled and minced ; then put this preparation into hot fritter with a ſpoon , each fritter to be about the bigness of a large nut ; fry them of a good 1 colour, drain them upon a fieve, and ftrew a little fine powder-fugar over them, and ſerve as hot as poffible. Baignets en Surtout.

Fritters maſked .

Mix the yolks of fix eggs with a pint of cream, three or four fpoonfuls of flour, fugar according to tafte ; boil this about a quarter of an hour, ftirring it conftantly; then add fome pounded almond-bifcuits, a little raſped lemon- peel, a little orange-flower water, or a few of the flowers dried and pounded, the yolks of four eggs, and a little beef-marrow melted and fifted through a fieve ; it muſt be pretty thick ; when it is cold, roll it inlittle balls ; dip theſe in a batter made of flour, Bb 2 wine,

388

THE PRACTICE OF

wine, and ſugar ; fry them of a good colour, and glaze them with fugar and a falamander. Baignets á l'Angloife. Fritters English-faſhion .

BEAT UP fix or feven eggs , with a handful of flour , falt , fugar , a piece of lemonpeel minced , a little orange -flower water, fome pounded almond - biſcuit , and half a pint of good cream ;

rub the inſide of a ſtew- pan

with butter, and boil this preparation flowly between two fires , without ftirring it ; when 4 it is thick enough, turn it over upon a diſh, and let it cool ; when you uſe it, cut it in pieces , fry theſe of a good colour , ftrew fome fine fugar over them , and ferve as hot as poffible . Baignets de Blanc-mangé. Fritters of White- eating .

Mix four eggs with a quarter of a pound ofground rice, fome fine fugar, a little falt, and a pint of cream ; fimmer it on a flow fire about half an hour, ftirring it for fear it should burn at bottom ; when it is quite thick, add pounded breaſt of a fowl, fome pounded almond-bifcuit ,

fome

preferved

citron ,

and

orange-flowers chopt very fine ; flatten it like a paſte with flour ; let it cool , and cut it in what ſhape you pleaſe ; fry of a good colour, and ferve them with rafped fugar or glazed .

Baignets

MODERN

COOKERY . 389

Baignets á la Crême. Cream-fritters." BOIL a pint and a half of cream ,

with

fugar according to tafte, a little falt, and about two ounces of butter ; make it pretty thick with flour ; then mix it with four eggs, roll it pretty thin , cut it in pieces of what ſhape you pleaſe, and fry of a good colour ; glaze them with fugar and a hot falamander. Baignets des Fraifes. Strawberry-fritters.

MAKE a batter with flour, a fpoonful of oil , white-wine, a little

rafped lemon-peel,

and the whites oftwo or three eggs ; make it. pretty ſoft, juft fit to drop with a ſpoon ; mix ſome large ftrawberries with it, and drop them with a ſpoon, the bignefs of a nutmeg, into the hot fritter ; when of a good colour, take them out and drain them on a ſieve ; when ready to ferve, ftrew fugar over, or glaze them. Baignets à l'Espagnole.

Spaniſh Fritters.

TAKE two preſerved oranges, which you cut in as many pieces as you think proper ; make a batter with flour, one egg, a spoonful of oil , and fweet-wine ; finifh this as all others.

You make fritters of lemons, or any

other fruits, in the fame manner.

Bb 3

Baignets

W

390

THE PRACTICE OF

Baignets de Sureau et de Vigne. Fritters of Elder-flowers or Vine - leaves. THOSE of elder-flowers are made while in bloom, in breaking off ſmall tender branches ; alſo of vine, in breaking off the tops in fmall bunches, both to be marinaded as the apples on pedeſtals ; when drained , dip them

in a

good thick batter made of flour, one

egg,

a fpoonful of oil , a little falt, and white- wine ; fry them of a good colour , and ferve with raſped fugar over.

Baignets á la Fermiere . Fritters Farmer-faſhion . MIX fome well drained curds with four or five eggs, a little fugar, three fpoonfuls of flour, and a little falt ; work theſe well together ; then butter a fheet of paper, and drop it on feparately, about the bigneſs of a nutmeg; then put the paper and fritters in hot frying-ſtuff ; fry them briskly, and of a good colour ; ferve with rafped fugar over them. Baignets en Caiffes.

Fritters in Paper-cafes.

MAKE as many fmall paper-cafes of different ſhapes as you think proper ; fill them with the fame preparation as thoſe of blancmangé, all to the meat part, which is not to fry them in hog's-lard ; when done,

be ;

glaze the under fide with caramel-fugar, or with fugar and a hot falamander.

Baignets

MODERN COOKERY. 391

Baignets des Pommes de la Terre. Potatoe-fritters . BOIL and peel eight potatoes , pound them , and mix them with the yolks of fix eggs and two whites , a little falt, fugar according to taſte, a few pounded almond-biſcuits , and a piece of lemon-peel minced very fine ; have fome hog's-lard very hot, and drop in the above compofition , with a ſpoon, about the bigness of a nutmeg ; fry them of a good colour, and ferve with grated fugar over them .

OF

TOASTS ,

Roties au Jambon.

& c.

Ham-toafts .

CUT as many thin flices of ham as you making toafts ; it must be foaked

propofe

fome time, excepting it be quite freſh ; cut flices of bread the fame fize and ſhape as the flices of ham ; foak the ham in a few- pan over a flow fire, turning it twice or thrice, it requires but a fhort time to do ; take out the ham, and fry the bread in the fat, you may add a little butter, and put them on the diſh you intend for table, and the flices of ham upon them, keep it warm, pour out the fat, and add a little cullis in the fame pan, a little vinegar, and pepper ; fimmer it a little, ftirring it with a fpoon ; ferve this fauce upon the toaſts .

Bb4

Roties

E

392

THE PRACTIC

OF

Roties à l'Allemande. Toafts German -faſhion . TAKE the remains

of falpicon ,

chop it

finer than for a ragout, add chopt parſley, green onions , fhallots , and the yolks of three eggs ; put it over the fire, and reduce it pretty thick ; when it is cold, put it upon toafted bread, cut in what shape you pleaſe ; bafte it with eggs , and ftrew bread - crumbs over ; bake them in the oven,

and fry in

hog's- lard ; ferve with a little good cullis and the ſqueeze of a lemon under, Roties des Rognons de Veau, Veal-kidney Toaſts . MINCE a roafted kidney with ſome of its fat ; feafon

it

with pepper

and falt , chopt

parfley, ſhallots , and a little fweet -bafil ; mix it with the yolks of two eggs ; lay it upon pieces of toaſted bread, cut in what ſhape you pleaſe ; baſte them with eggs , and ftrew breadcrumbs over ; put them in a baking- diſh upon thin flices of bacon , or butter the dish only ; bake them in the oven about half an hour ; when done, drain the fat off, and wipe the bread with a cloth ; ferve with a little good gravy under.

Roties des Foies gras,

Toafts of fat Livers.

MAKE a forced- meat with fat livers , truffles, beef-marrow, bread-crumbs foaked

in

cream ,

MODERN COOKERY.

393

cream , chopt parfley, fhallots, a little fweetbafil, pepper, falt, and the yolks of two eggs ; mix all well together , and ſpread it upon toafts , the bread and forced - meat much of an equal thickneſs ; ſmooth them over with a knife dipt in yolks of eggs,

ftrew bread- crumbs

over, fry or bake them , and ferve with a good reliſhing ſauce under. Roties au Mortier.

Pounded Toafts .

TAKE a little puff- pafte, which you put in a mortar ; mince a roafted veal-kidney with fome of the fat , and add to it a little fugar, three bitter almond -biſcuits , a piece of lemonpeel minced very fine, and a little preſerved citron ; pound all theſe together, then beat up the whites of four eggs and add to it ; put this upon toaſts , cut in what form you pleaſe ; bake in the oven, and ferve plain . Roties á la Minime. Toafts Minim-friars Fafhion , CUT pieces of bread , and fry them in oil ; 1 when drained, place them on the table-diſh ; then mix fome chopt parfley, fhallots , capers, pepper, and pounded anchovies, with fome good oil, and garnish with fillets of foaked anchovies.

Roties á la Bretagne. Toafts Brittany- faſhion . MINCE all

forts

of falading

herbs , and mix

THE PRACTICE OF 394

mix them with pepper, falt, and a piece of butter or fome good oil, and a fqueeze of a lemon ; ſerve this upon pieces bread.

Roties á l'Infante.

of toaſted

Toafts Infanta-faſhion.

MAKE the fame compofition as

directed

for marrow-cream ; take fome almond - paſte, which you prepare

as toafts ; raiſe a

border round each ,

and bake them ; when

little

cold, fill them as high as the borders with this cream , bruſh them over with whites of eggs beat up with fugar, and colour them with a hot falamander.

Roties Soufflées. Raiſed or blown Toafts . POUND the breaſt of a roafted fowl, or two chickens, with fome beef-marrow,

Par-

mefan-cheeſe, fix yolks of eggs, and the whites beat to a fnow added to it ; then cut pieces of bread in what ſhape you pleaſe, and fry them in butter ; put the above preparation upon them ; bafte with eggs , and ſtrew over them bread-crumbs and Parmefan- cheeſe mixed together ; bake in the oven, and ſerve a little good reliſhing cullis under. Roties en Rochers.

Rock Toafts .

Mix two eggs with two ſpoofuls of flour, half a pint of cream, and fome fine ſugar ; boil this about half an hour, ftirring it continually ;

1

MODERN COOKERY.

395

ly; then add fome pounded almond - bifcuits , raſped lemon-peel , and a little butter ; let it cool, then mix it with the yolks of three or four eggs, and fpread it upon pieces of fried bread cut in different fhapes ; then beat up the whites to a fnow, mix fome fine fugar with them , and put the fnow indifferently upon the toafts, with a little raſped

fugar

over ; bake in a flow oven , and ſerve dry, hot or cold . Roties á l'Italien .

Toafts Italian -faſhion . '

LARD a french roll with ham and anchovies ; then cut it in toafts, and as many thin flices of bacon as toafts ; dip each in a good thick batter, made moftly of eggs ; fry flowly in hog's-lard, drain and wipe them very well, and ſerve with a good reliſhing fauce under.

Roties des Foies des Poiffons. Toafts of Fiſh- livers . MINCE the livers of any fort of fiſh , and mix them with chopt parſley, ſhallots , capers , pepper, and falt ; fimmer it on a flow fire a little while, with a

piece of good butter ;

let it cool ; then cut fome bread in different fhapes, and fry them in butter ; lay this preparation upon the toafts, and croſs -barred over with fillets of anchovies ; bafte

with

melted butter and bread-crumbs ; put them on a baking-plate, and bake in a flow oven about

THE PRACTICE OF

396

about half an hour ; ferve with a little beat butter, and the ſqueeze of a lemon .

Roties des Legumes. Toafts of Garden - ftuffs of all kinds . MAKE a ragout of fpinages, celery, or any other ; ſeaſon it as if for table, without toaſts ; when it is cold, mix it with the yolks offour eggs,

and

finifh

as ufual,

with eggs

and

bread- crumbs ; you may either fry or bake them .

Pommes en Farbalat.

Apples feftooned .

TAKE ten or twelve golden pippins, gore and peel them ; ftew them about three parts in fugar and a little water ; make the ſyrup rich, fo as to clog to the apples ; wrap them round with a thin pafte, cut with a paftecutter, which are moftly fcolloped ; and make knots or flowers with the fame pafte, to put on the top of the apples ; raſp ſome fine fugar, and bake a little in the oven .

Pommes enfurprife.

Apples furpriſed.

PREPARE the apples as the preceding , only make a large core in the middle ; let them cool, to fill with any kind of fweet-meats you think proper ; wrap them in thin paſte, and garnish according to fancy ;

rafp fome

fine fugar over, and bake in a flow oven. 12

Pommes

MODERN COOKERY .

Pommes farcies.

397

Stuffed Apples.

CORE them as the laft, and fill them with a good marrow- cream ; bafte the outſide with whites of eggs , to make as much fine fugar ftick to as poffible ; bake them in a flow oven upon the difh you intend for and ferve either hot or cold .

table,

Pommes en Colimaçons. Apples in the ſhape of Snails. MAKE a marmalade of apples , as directed for tarts of the fame ; make a thin paſte , in which put fome of the marmalade, and give them the shape of fnails ; glaze them with whites ofeggs and fine fugar, and bake them in a flow oven till of a good colour . Although this is no more than apple-puffs ; yet as a variety of ſhapes for the fame thing is agreeable, fo

according to the

fhape you make

them, they muſt be directed by names.

Pommes glacées.

Apples in Jelly or glazed .

PEEL one dozen golden pippins ; leave the ftalks, and core them at the oppofite fide, not quite through; ftew them in a pint of redwine, a glafs of brandy, and a piece of fine fugar ; ftew them flowly that they may not break ; when done, take them out, reduce the ſyrup to a caramel, and rub the apples all over with it : you may ſerve them fo, or wrapt in a thin paſte, and finiſhed as directed for

THE PRACTICE OF

398

for thoſe feftooned , and glazed with a white glaze. Pain des Champignons et des Morelles. Muſhrooms or Morel Loaf. CUT a flice of bread round the loaf, about an inch and a half thick ; fink it about half, leaving a pretty thick border ; pare and ſcollop it properly, to give it a handfome look ; fry it in butter, and ferve a good ragout of muſhrooms or morels in it : you may alſo ſerve ftewed fpinage, peafe, afparagus, celery, & c.; the two first are alfo upon a flat toaft, or fried bread, or half a roll dried in the oven, and put in the middle of the diſh.

Pain en furprife . Bread or Loaf maſked , & c . TAKE a French roll well crufted, take out all the crumbs , and dry the cruft in the oven ; then glaze it all over with a white glaze, and put it in the oven a little to dry ; when it is cold, fill it with blanc-mangé or white-eating ; put it upon the table-diſh ,

in a cool place,

upon falt or ice, until the white-eating is quite firm ; this may be done with one large roll , or five or fix fmall ones . Pain de Jambon.

Ham- loaf.

CUT thin flices of ready dreſſed ham ; make a little forced-meat with fome of the fat and lean, and fweet herbs chopt ; then take

MODERN COOKERY .

399

take fome paſte, fuch as is made for French rolls , and make a little of it flat with your hand according to the bignefs required ; put a few flices of the ham upon it, and fome of the forced-meat, then pafte; continue ſo two or three times over, the pafte to be the laſt ; form it as a fmall loaf ; put it on a bakingplate, and bake in a middling hot oven ; ſerve cold .

Theſe kinds of loaves are moſtly uſed

on a journey. Pain á la Créme.

Cream-loaf.

TAKE a large roll, rafp it, and take out the crumbs ; foak it a little in milk, fugar, and lemon ; then drain and fill it with Franchipane-cream , and put on the top again ; put a little of the fame cream in the bottom of the table-difh, and pretty thick of cream all

over,

and

grated fugar ;

bake it

in a

pretty hot oven until of a fine brown colour.

& Pain a l'Espagnole.

Loaf Spaniſh-faſhion .

CUT off the tops of fix rolls , take out all the crumbs , fill them with a ready prepared cream , and cover them with the tops that were cut off ; foak them in fweet Spaniſh $ wine, about a quarter of an hour ; then wipe and flour them ; fry of a good colour, and glaze them with ſugar.

Fondues

1

400

THE PRACTICE OF

Fondues en Caifles. Melted Cheeſe in Paper-cafes. MELT about half a pound of Parmeſancheeſe, with fome good cream-cheeſe ; then mix it in a mortar, with the yolks of fix eggs, and the whites of four beat to a fnow; then make about a dozen paper-caſes about an inch ſquare, and fill them with this preparation ; bake in a middling hot oven till of a good colour, and ferve quite hot.

Gauffres á la Flamande.

Flemish-wafers.

Mix a pound of flour with a pint and a half of cream , a little yeft, a little falt, and about a pound of melted butter ; keep it in a warm place about three quarters of an hour ; warm the iron, and rub it with butter tied in a cloth , or a bit of fresh

bacon ;

pour a

ſpoonful of the batter in it ; bake them of a brown colour, turning the iron two or three times ; ferve hot .

You may alſo ſerve them

in hot cream and ſugar.

Fromange des Ecreviffes. Craw-fifh Cheeſe. TAKE two or three dozen living craw-fiſh , and pound them very fine ; then add the juice of one or two lemons, a little falt, and a quart of cream ; ftrain ſeveral times through a ſtamine, rubbing hard with a ſpoon ; then put it on the fire, ftirring

continually

until the

curd is

formed ; then drain it like cheeſe ; when done, put

MODERN COOKERY.

401

put it on a diſh, four it on both fides, fry of a good colour, and ferve with falpiconfauce under.

Ecreviffes á la Condé. Craw-fifh Condé-faſhion . BOIL a little cullis , a gill of white-wine , a table-ſpoonful of oil, a piece of lemon- peel, one onion fliced , a laurel-leaf, a little bafil , parſley,

fhallots, two cloves, pepper, and falt; reduce it to the confiftence of a fauce, and ftrain it through a fieve ; then take as many live craw- fifh as you need, trim them properly, and cut each in two ; ftew them a little in this fauce, and ſerve them quite hot.

Beurre d'Ecreviffes. BOIL two

or three

Craw-fish Butter. dozen

craw-fish in

water ; take off the tails, and dry the carcaffes in the oven, then pound them very fine ; put this in a ſtew-pan with two pounds of good butter, and put it on the fire, ftirring it continually till ofa good red colour ; ftrain it thro' a ftamine, and pour it upon freſh cold water to cool ; keep it in a pot for ufe : the tails will ferve for a ragout, or to mix with any other.

Ecreviffes aux fines Herbes . Craw-fish ftewed with fweet Herbs . Pur a piece of butter in a ſtew- pan , with two or three thin flices of veal, a flice of ham, and Cc

402

THE PRACTICE OF

and all forts of fweet herbs chopt ; foak it on a flow fire, about a quarter of an hour ; then add half a pint of white-wine, and ſtew flowly like a cullis ; when the meat is half done, add as many live craw-fifh as will make a difh,

being

trimmed first ;

when they

are

done, take out the ham and veal, add a little cullis , and fkim the fauce ;

when ready to

ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon .

Ecreviffes á la Hâte. Craw-fifh dreffed in a haſte. PUT a little cullis and white-wine in a ftewpan, with pepper, falt, and fweet herbs chopt ; add fix craw-fish cut in two ; put them over a fmart fire , ftir them well to catch the taſte of the ſeaſoning, a few minutes will do ; when 1

ready to ſerve, add the fqueeze of a lemon.

Ecreviffes Farcies. Craw-fish with Forced-meat. BOIL as many craw-fifh as will make a diſh ; take off the body- fhells , and the fins under the tails ; make a little forced- meat with the remainder of a falpicon or ragout ; fill them as large as if the fhells were on ; baſte them with eggs and bread-crumbs , and bake them in a flow oven ; when ready to ferve, add the juice of half a lemon under. Ecreviffes á la broche.

Craw-fiſh roafted .

TAKE as many craw-fidh as will make a dish ;

MODERN COOKERY.

403

diſh ; trim off the fins, and put them in a ftew-pan with a piece of butter, a little whitewine, fweet herbs chopt, and three flices of peeled lemon ; fimmer on a flow fire till they are dead ; then drain them, and ftuff a little forced-meat in the bodies ; tie them on a finall fpit to roaft, and bafte with the liquid they were boiled in, putting a diſh under to fave it ; when ready to ferve , ftrain the liqour, and ferve under the craw-fish .

Ecreviffes Monarque. Craw-fith Monarch-fashion . THE Craw -fiſh being plain boiled , take out the infide of the bodies, and fill them with a farcie made with carp - roes, fweet herbs, pepper and falt ; then cover them with fith forced-meat properly ſeaſoned ; then rub them over with the yolks of eggs and melted butter mixed together, and ftrew bread- crumbs over ; bake them in the oven about half an hour ; make a fauce with a little gravy, jellybroth, the tails cut in dices , a little butter, chopt parſley,

fhallots, a

little

thyme and

fweet-bafil, pepper and falt ; boil it a little, and ſerve under the firft preparation .

Ecreviffes a la Flamande. Craw-fith Flemish - fashion . BOIL them in ſmall beer, with a good piece of butter, a faggot of fweet herbs , pepper, and falt ; boil on a fmart fire ; when done, take Cc 2

THE PRACTICE OF 404 take out the faggot, and ferve in the liquor fprigs of parſley.

Ecreviffes au Court Bouillon . Craw-fish plain boiled . BOIL as many craw-fiſh as you think proper in water, vinegar, and falt, with one onion and fome ſweet herbs : if you would give them aparticular taſte, keep them in milk and parſley about eight hours before boiling alive : you may alfo put a ſpoonful of anife-feed in the liquor while they are boiling ; this is the Dutch-faſhion, and gives them a very agreeable taſte when ufed with moderation : trim and lay them on the difh with taſte.

Ecreviffes á l'Intendante . Craw- fith Infpectorefs - faſhion . PUT as many craw-fiſh as you want in a ftew-pan, with a piece of butter, chopt muſhrooms , truffles, parfley, fhallots, pepper, falt, and the juice of a lemon ; ftew them on a flow fire till they are done ; let them cool , thicken the fauce with yolks

of eggs and

flour ; when it is cold, wrap the craw- fiſh in it, each ſeparately, lay them on the tabledifh, ftrew them over with crumbs of bread, and give them a good colour in the oven ; when you ferve, lemon over them .

add the juice of half

a

Ecreviffes

MODERN COOKERY.

405

Ecreviffes á l'Italienne . Craw-fith Italian-faſhion . BOIL them with all forts of ſeaſoning, two fpoonfuls of oil, two or three glaffes of whitewine, a clove of garlick, the juice of a lemon, and water fufficient to make liquor enough, and ferve in their own fauce.

Laitances des Carpes frites . Carp-roes fried. BLANCH as many carp-roes as will make a diſh in boiling water ; drain and marinade them about an hour in lemon -juice , with a little falt ; then drain and wipe them ; bathe them in eggs and bread-crumbs, with a duft of flour ; fry of a good colour ; drain them ; when ready to ferve, fqueeze the juice of an orange over , and garnish with fried parfley.

Laitances des Carpes à la Belle- vue. Carp-roes agreeable , well -looking.

BLANCH the roes in boiling water ; then garniſh a ſtew-pan with thin flices of bacon and flices of ham, and then a fcalded fweetbread, a faggot herbs,

onions

of white-wine , little falt ;

of parsley and fweet

cut

in thick flices , a gill whole pepper, and a very

foak on a flow fire; when the

fweetbread is near done, put the roes to it, with Cc3

ΤΗΣ PRACTICE OF

406

with a little broth , and about one dozen and a half of craw-fish tails picked ; ftew all together about a quarter of an hour ; when ready to ferve, put the fweetbread in the middle of the table-diſh, with four or five of the onionrings

upon it,

which you bafte

with the

whites of eggs to make them ftick ; fill them with

pounded

craw- fiſh

or

lobſter-ſpawn

boiled a little in good cullis , and then the craw- fiſh and roes intermixed

handſomely ;

add fome good cullis to the ſauce , make it pretty thick, ftrain it through a fieve, and pour it upon the roes only.

Laitances des Carpes á l'Angloife. Carps-roes English- fashion . BLANCH the roes in boiling water ; then ſtew them about a quarter of an hour in fome good broth or gravy, with a piece of lemonpeel, a

faggot of parsley and fweet herbs ,

feafon with pepper and falt ; when ready to ferve , add a little butter rolled in flour ; fimmer a little without boiling, and add the juice of half a lemon ; the fauce muſt be of a middling confiftence ; ferve quite hot,

1 Laitances des Carpes á la Hollandoife, Carps- roes Dutch-faſhion . BLANCH One dozen and a halfoffmall white onions ; then ſtew them in a pint of whitewine, with a piece of good butter, a faggot of parſley and ſweet

herbs,

pepper

and falt ; when

MODERN COOKERY .

407

when three parts done, put fçalded carps -roes to it, and finiſh the ftewing ; they require no longer time than for the onions to be tender ; reduce the fauce pretty thick, put the roes in the middle of the diſh , and the onions round ; mix a little fpinage-juice with the fauce, to give it a green colour; ferve the fauce upon the onions only, or in the bottom of the diſh, and the reſt upon it ; garniſh with fried bread . Laitances des Carpes á la Poulettes. Fricaffee of Carp- roes.

PUT a little good butter in a ſtew- pan, with a dozen fmall muſhrooms ,

a flice of

ham, the ſqueeze of a lemon , and a faggot of fweet herbs ; foak it on a flow fire a little while, then add a little flour and as many fcalded carp-roes as you think proper, with a little good broth ; ftew about a quarter of an hour, feaſoning with pepper and falt ; when ready to ferve, thicken it with a liafon made with the yolks

of two or three eggs and

cream, with a little chopt parfley. Huitres á la l'Etuvée.

Stewed Oysters .

SCALD three dozen oyfters in their own liquor, then wash them out one by one, and ftrain the liquor through a fine ſieve ; put it in a ftew-pan with a little good cullis , chopt parſley, fhallots , a little pepper, and a glaſs ofwhite-wine ; reduce it pretty thick, and put the oysters in it to warm without boiling ; when Cc4

408

THE PRACTICE OF

when ready to ferve, garnish the diſh with fried bread.

Huitres en Ragout.

Ragout of Oyſters .

SCALD the oysters in their own liquor, then drain them ;

make a fauce with fome

good cullis , a little butter, chopt parſley, pepper, and a ſpoonful of good oil ; reduce the fauce pretty thick, and fimmer the oyfters a little while in it ; when ready to ferve , add the fqueeze of a lemon . Huitres en Fricaffee. Fricaffee of Oyſters. PUT a little butter in a ſtew-pan with a flice of ham, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, and one onion ftuck with two cloves ; foak it a little on a flow fire ; then add a little flour, fome good broth, and a piece of lemon- peel ; then put fcalded oyfters to it, and fimmer them a little ; when ready to ferve, thicken it with a liafon made of the yolks of two eggs, a little cream, and a bit of good butter ; take out the ham , faggot, onion , and lemon-peel, and add the ſqueeze of a lemon.

Huitres en coquilles.

Scolloped Oyſters ,

SCALD the oysters as ufual ; drain them well ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots , pepper, falt, and the yolks

of eggs ; give them a few

turns over the fire, then

put them in the fhells,

MODERN COOKERY,

409

fhells, and bake in the oven till they are of a good colour. Huitres enfurtout. Oyſters maſked.

PREPARE the oyfters as the preceding ; a fish forced -meat, which you put

make

over and under the oysters in the fcollops, with bread-crumbs and Parmefan-cheeſe over ; bake in the oven about a quarter of an hour ; ferve hot.

Huitres à l'Espagnole. Oyſters Spaniſh -faſhion . MAKE

a little farcie with

1

a few chopt

oyſters, parſley, one clove of garlick, a little butter, and pepper ; put it in the bottom ofthe table-diſh, and put fcalded oysters upon this ; pour a little fauce over, made with a little. butter,

chopt mushrooms,

capers, two an-

chovies , and a little cullis ; ftrew bread- crumbs over, and bake it in the oven ; when ready to ſerve, pour a little Spaniſh-fauce upon it. Huitres grillées.

Broiled Oyſters .

MELT a little butter with chopt parfley,

1 fhallots, a little powder of bafil, pepper and falt ; roll the oysters in this, ftrew them with bread-crumbs , and broil them quickly : you may broil them fingly,

or in their

fhells

with this ſeaſoning ; colour the top with a falamander. Anchois

1

410

THE PRACTICE or

Anchois au Parmefan. Anchovies with Parmeſan-cheeſe.

SOAK the anchovies well in water, and ſplit each in four fillets ; fry fome bread, cut in the fame manner ; put a little cullis in the table- diſh , with chopt parſley, ſhallots , rafped Parmefan-cheeſe, then the fried bread laid with

tafte,

then the

anchovies ;

pour

a

little cullis and a fqueeze of a lemon over, ftrew it with bread-crumbs, and give it a colour in the oven.

Anchois au Bafilic. Anchovies with fweet-bafil . WASH

the

anchovies

very

clean ,

fplit

each in two, and take out the bones ; foak them an hour in a little white-wine, a

few leaves

of fweet-bafil ;

and dip them in

then

with drain,

a batter made of a little

flour,

eggs, and white-wine ; ftrew breadcrumbs over, and fry of a good colour ; garnish with fried parſley. N. B. When foaked in the above manner, you wrap them in thin pafte, giving what form you pleaſe, and fry of a good colour. Timbals d'Anchois. Anchovies baked in moulds .

RUB the infides of the moulds with a little butter, and garnish them all over with fillets of

MODERN COOKERY,

411

of foaked anchovies ; intermix them handfomely with fillets of breaft of roafted fowl ; then fill

them

with

a well-feaſoned

light

forced-meat, and bake them in the oven ; when ready, turn them over in the difh ; ferve a little cullis-fauce and the fqueeze of a lemon under. Omelette .

Omelet.

BEAT up eight eggs with a little good cream, chopt parfley, fhallots, green onions , pepper, and falt ; melt a piece of butter in the frying-pan,

and pour the preparation

into it, ftirring it over a clear fire, till the omelet is

formed

colour ;

and of a good

when ready, put the diſh upon it, and turn it over; ferve quite hot,

Omelette au Parmefan. Omelet with Parmeſan-cheeſe. BEAT up ten or twelve eggs , with fome Parmefan -cheeſe raſped , fome pepper, no falt, as the cheeſe will make it falt enough ; make three or four omelets of this pretty thin, and fpread fome rafped Parmeſan over each ; roll them up, and lay them on the table-diſh ; pour a little melted butter over, and a little more cheeſe ; put it in the oven to give it a colour.

Omelette

THE PRACTICE

412

OF

Omelette á la Gendarme. Omelet Military-faſhion.

MAKE fome

a

ragout of ftewed forrel,

Parmefan-cheeſe

and

with

bread-crumbs ;

make two omelets, as the firſt, and put them on the dish with this ragout between ; garniſh the dish with fried bread, ftanding up like a paſte border, which you may do by dipping the edge of each piece in whites of eggs ; pour a little melted butter over, ftrew it over with Parmefan-cheeſe and breadcrumbs , and put it in the oven till of a good colour.

Omelette en Baignets.

Omelet-fritters .

MAKE two thin omelets with a little chopt fweet-bafil, and cut them to roll like olives ; when they are cold, dip them in a batter made of flour, eggs, a little falt, and white-wine ; fry them in hog's-lard , and garniſh with fried parſley. Omelette de Ragnon de Veau. Omelet with Veal- kidney. BEAT up fix or

eight eggs with chopt

parfley, fhallots , green onions, pepper, falt, and

a little nutmeg ;

add

a roafted veal-

kidney minced very fine ; fry as uſual. You may alſo make a ham omelet after the fame manner. Omelette

MODERN COOKERY.

Omelette aux Oignons.

413

Omelet with Onions .

FRY four fliced onions in butter, till they are quite done ; add the yolks of three eggs, and a little chopt parfley ; make two ſmall omelets without falt, put the onions upon them, and a few fillets of anchovies ; roll them lengthways ; have fome pieces of bread cut like toafts,

and fried in butter ; cut the

omelets the fame fize with the bread upon which you put them ;

pour a little melted

butter over, and ftrew them with raſped Parmefan-cheeſe and bread-crumbs ; give them a colour in the oven, and ferve with a reliſhing fauce under. Omelette au Foies. Omelet with minced Livers.

MAKE a well-ſeaſoned ragout of poultry or game livers ; make two omelets as before directed, and ferve this ragout between them, or folded up in one.

Omelette au Sang.

Omelet with Blood.

BEAT fix or eight eggs with chopt parfley, ſhallots , green onions, pepper, falt, and a little nutmeg ; mix either poultry's or lamb's blood with it, and fry as uſual.

Omelettes

414

THE PRACTICE OF

Omelettes d'Anchois ou des Harengsfors . Omelets with Anchovies or Red- herrings . EITHER

anchovies or red-herrings muſt

be well foaked, ftripped from the bones , and cut in fmall fillets ; mix them with the eggs ; add a gill of good cream, a little powder of fweet- bafil , pepper, nutmeg, and bits of butter ; put it in a baking-diſh , and bake it in the oven, but not too ftiff. Omelette á la Créme de Ris. Omelet with Cream and flour of Rice. Mix about three ſpoonfuls of the flour of rice with four eggs, a little falt, a quarter of a pound of good butter, as much fine fugar, and a pint of good cream ; boil this together, ftirring it continually until it grows thick ; when it is almoſt cold , add a little raſped lemon-peel, perferved citron cut in dices, a few

orange-flowers , fome

almond- bifcuits

pounded, and the yolks of eight eggs , with the whites beat to a fnow ; butter a fheet of paper, and put it in a deep round pan ; bake it in the oven ; turn it over upon the difh, and glaze it with fugar and a falamander. Omelette à la Crême. MIX a pint of cream bread-crumbs ,

Cream Omelet. with a handful of

chopt parfley,

fhallots , pep-

per, and falt ; boil it till it is quite thick ; then

MODERN COOKERY. 415 then beat

up eight eggs ,

and add

to

finiſh as ufual ; only obferve, that it longer time to do.

it ;

takes

Omelette á la Dauphin. Omelet Dauphin - faſhion .

MAKE two thin omelets, fpread them upon a diſh, and lay over them Pistachio-cream and apricot-marmalade ; roll them up, to cut to the fize of a little almond or other paſte, done in moulds of any kind ; put them in the pafte, and glaze them with fugar and a falamander.

Oeufs en Caifles.

Eggs in Paper-cafes .

Mix fome chopt fweet - herbs with a piece of butter, pepper, and falt ; put a little of this in the bottom of each cafe ; break an egg into each caſe, upon the farcie, and a little more over ; ftrew them over with bread- crumbs , and bake in the oven , or broil over a ſlow fire , covering the top with a falamander ; they ought to be as foft as if boiled in the ſhells.

Oeufs au Point de Four. Eggs like the dawn of Day. POACH eight or ten eggs, then put them on a fieve to drain ; cut five or fix thin flices of ham in dices, and foak them in a little butter over the fire till they are done ; then dip the eggs one by one

in a pretty thick batter

of flour, white-wine, falt, and a little

made oil ; ftrew

416

E THE PRACTIC

OF

ftrewthem with the dices ofham, and fry them in hog's-lard ; when ready to ferve, garniſh with fried parſley .

Oeufs á la Tripe.

Eggs Tripe-fafhion .

PUT a piece of butter in a ftew-pan , with chopt parſley, fhallots, muſhrooms, pepper, and falt ; when the herbs are done, add a little flour and good broth ; then add four or five hard-boiled eggs cut in fix fillets each ; when ready to ferve, add the fqueeze of a lemon.

Oeufs au Pere Simon. Eggs Father Simon faſhion . PUT a little butter in a few-pan, with chopt parſley and fhallots ; foak this over the fire a little while ; then add a little good cullis , a glafs ofwhite-wine, and a little butter rolled in flour ; ſeaſon with pepper, falt, and a little ginger ; boil it a little, and add the ſqueeze of a Seville orange ; ferve this upon poached eggs. Oeufs á la Ducheſſe. Eggs Duchefs -faſhion . BOIL a pint of cream and fugar, a little orange-flower water, and a piece of lemonpeel ; poach fix or eight eggs in it ; take out the eggs ; reduce the cream for fauce to ferve upon them.

Oeufs

MODERN COOKERY.

Oeufs á la Flamande.

417

Eggs Flemiſh-faſhion.

BRAZE fome cabbage- lettuces in a wellſeaſoned braze ; when they are done, drain, and put them on the table-diſh ſeparately ; cut boiled eggs in two, and put a half upon each lettuce, the eggs fhould not he boiled very hard ; ferve a little cullis and butter over them for fauce.

Oeufs farcies au Concombres. Forced -eggs with a Ragout of Cucumbers. CUT eight or ten hard eggs in two ; pound the yolks with bread-crumbs foaked in cream , a little piece of butter, chopt parſley, ſhallots , muſhrooms, pepper and falt, and add the yolks of three raw eggs ; then fill the whites with it, ſmooth them with a knife dipt in eggs, ftrew bread- crumbs over, baſte with butter, and bake in the oven till of a good colour ; ferve them upon a ragout of cucumbers. Oeufs enfurprise au Bafilic. Sham Eggs with Bafil. TAKE as many hard-boiled eggs as will make a diſh, cut them in two , take out the yolks, and fill them with a good falpicon farcie,

or any light forced-meat ; join each

two halves together with yolks of eggs as if whole ; dip them in yolks beat up with chopt fweet-bafil,

pepper,

and falt ;

fry them in

hog's-lard, oil, or clarified butter, and garniſh with fried parſley . Dd Oeuf

1 1

CE

CTI

418

THE PRA

OF

Oeufs áu Zephir.

Puffed Eggs.

SEPARATE the yolks and whites of eight or ten eggs without breaking the yolks , beat the whites to a fnow, wrap each yolk in a ſpoonful of the ſnow, and fo on as you pleaſe ; flide them gently off into hot hog's-lard , one after another ; fry of a fine gold colour , and ſerve with a little cullis made pretty ſharp, with the juice of a lemon .

Pettis Oeufs pour garnir. Small Eggs for garniſh, POUND the yolks of eight hard eggs , with the yolks of three raw ones, a little pepper and falt ; roll this in little balls like marbles, fome larger and fome ſmaller, to imitate the knots of eggs found in pullets ;

put them

into pies, ragouts , or fauces of any ſort, as you think proper.

Oeufs au Prefident.

Eggs Prefident-faſhion .

POACH as many eggs as will make a diſh ; when properly done, dip them in yolks of eggs, ftrew rafped Parmefan-cheeſe over, and bread-crumbs ; fry them a little in very hot hog's-lard, and garnish with fried parſley. Oeufs en Crepine . POACH ten

Eggs in caul .

or twelve eggs ; trim

them

properly, and wrap each in a piece of caul , with a forced-meat, falpicon, or ragout of any kind ; dip them in yolks of eggs , and ftrew

MODERN COOKERY.

ftrew bread- crumbs baking-plate,

over ;

419

put them on

bake in the

oven

about

a a

quarter of an hour, and ferve with a good reliſhing cullis-fauce . Oeufs glacés.

Eggs glazed .

BOIL a little broth in the table- diſh , and break the eggs into it, as you do thoſe for poaching, with a little pepper and falt over ; keep them about a minute fo, as the yolks muſt not be hard ; take them off the fire, then beat up the yolks of four raw eggs and a little cream ; put it over the fire, ftirring it until it is pretty thick ; pour this upon the eggs , and rafped Parmefan-cheeſe over ; bafte with a little butter, and glaze them in the oven or with a falamander. Oeufs au Parmefan.

Eggs with Parmefan - cheeſe .

MAKE a little falpicon of what you pleaſe , put it in the bottom of the difh you intend for table, and fet it on a flow fire ; break the eggs upon it, as for poached ; garniſh with rafped Parmeſan- cheeſe ; colour it in the oven, or with a falamander; the yolks ought to be as tender as thofe of poached eggs. N. B. Obferve that all the dishes directed to be done between two fires , muſt be upon filver, otherwiſe they will break.

Oeufs á la Robert. Eggs with Robert-fauce. POACH as many eggs as will fill your diſh ; then Dd 2

420

THE

PRACTICE

OF

then make a fauce thus : Slice three or four onions, and fry them in butter, toffing them till they take colour ; then add a little cullis and broth, pepper, and falt ; let them ftew about half an hour, and reduce the fauce pretty thick ; when ready, add a little mustard and the poached eggs . Oeufs á l'Etuvée.

Stewed Eggs .

BREAK fix or eight eggs into hot hog'slard, as is done in boiling water for poached ; turn them well about with a fkimmer to make them round, and fry of a fine brown colour ; when well drained, ferve them with a ragout of carp-roes and ſmall onions ; put the eggs in the middle of the difh, and the ragout round, pouring the fauce equally upon the eggs ; garnish with fried bread.

Oeufs en Neige.

Snow-balls of Eggs .

BOIL a quart of cream with a piece of cinnamon, lemon- peel, a few drops of orangeflower water, a little falt, and fugar according to tafte ; reduce it to half in boiling ; take out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, then break eight or ten eggs, feparate the whites from the yolks , and beat the whites up to a ftrong fnow ; put this in the cream by ſpoonfuls, while it is boiling, to poach like eggs , turning them about the fame ; take them out to drain as they are done ; lay them upon the table-dish

with tafte ; then mix the yolks and

}

MODERN COOKERY.

421

and cream , ftirring it over the fire without boiling, till of a proper confiftence ; ftrain it through a fieve, and ferve upon thefnow-balls . Oeufs au Caffe.

Coffee Eggs .

MAKE fome good coffee, let it ſtand to clear as ufual , and fweeten it according to tafte ; beat up the yolks of eight eggs with four or five cups of coffee, and ſtrain it ; pour this in little moulds in form of eggs ; do not fill them quite full, and bake in a flow oven. You may alfo make them after this manner, in fhape of any fruits, or birds , if you have proper moulds ; then they take the name accordingly.

Petits Pois au Lard. Green Peaſe with Bacon or pickled Pork.

CUT

half a

pound of pickled

pork

or

bacon in thin flices ; put it in a ſtew-pan, and foak it on the fire until , it is done ; then put a quart of green

almoft peafe, a

piece of butter, a faggot of parſley and ſweet herbs , and a little boiling water ; ſtew on a reduce the fauce pretty thick;

flow fire ;

when ready to ferve, take out the faggot, and ferve all together. Petits Pois á la Créme. Green Peaſe ftewed with Cream. PUT a quart of green peaſe in a ſtew- pan with a piece of butter, a flice of ham , a Dd3 faggot

THE PRACTICE OF

422

faggot of pariley, a little winter-ſavory, and a little good broth ; ftew on a flow fire ; when they are almoſt done, add about a gill of good cream, and a little butter rolled in flour to make the fauce pretty thick ; pepper and falt ;

ſeaſon with

take out the faggot,

and

ferve quite hot. Petits Pois dans leur Suc, Green Peaſe in their own Juice.

TAKE a quart of fresh- fhelled peafe, and put them in a few-pan with a piece of butter, a few hearts of cabbage- lettuces , a faggot of parfley, green onions, winter-favory, and a little falt ;

cover them very cloſe, and ftew

on a flow fire, ftirring them now and then for fear of burning at bottom ; when they are done, add a little butter rolled in flour, toffing them till the butter is properly diffolved ; when ready to ſerve, take out the faggot,

and ferve the peafe

and

lettuces

to-

gether. Petits Pois en Etuvée a la François. Green Peaſe ſtewed French -faſhion. YOUR peaſe being fhelled, put a piece of butter into a ſtew-pan ;

when hot, throw

into it fome chopt onions, giving it a few turns overthe fire; then add the peafe, and give a few turns more; then add three or four cabbagelettuces cut fmall, and a flice of ham ; foak them over a flow fire about a quarter of an

hour,

MODERN COOKERY.

423

hour, then add a little flour and ſome good broth ; let them ſtew flowly about an hour longer ;

when ready to ſerve, add a liafon

made of the yolks of three or four eggs and a little cream , and a few bits of good butter, keeping them ſtirring until they are thickened like a fricaffee ; ſeaſon with falt ; take out the ham, and ſerve quite hot : the French fometimes add a ſpoonful of fine fugar.

Haricots verds en Ragout. Ragout of Kidney-beans.

WHEN your beans are properly picked, if pretty large, cut them in fillets ; if quite young, only break them in two ; and boil them in plain water, with a little falt : when done tender,

and drained, put them in a

ftew-pan, with a piece of butter, a flice of ham, a faggot of parfley, and green onions or fhallots, a little good cullis and broth ; ſtew on a flow fire about half an hour, then take out the ham and faggot, and reduce the fauce pretty thick ; when ready to ferve, feafon with pepper, falt, and the ſqueeze of a lemon. Haricots verds á la Flamande. Kidney-beans Flemish-faſhion,

WHEN the beans are boiled in water, put them to foak fome time in a little good broth, pepper, and falt ; then drain them , and ferve with a pretty thick fauce made with a piece of Dd4

424

THE

PRACTICE

or

of butter rolled in flour, two fhallots chopt very fine, fome good cream, and a few drops . vinegar of .

Haricots verds frites. Green Kidney- beans fried . THEY ought to be pretty large, and picked without breaking or cutting ; braze them with thin flices of bacon , a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, a little broth, and whole pepper ; when done, wipe them with a cloth, dip them in a pretty thick batter made with flour, a little falt, one egg, ſmall-beer, and a fpoonful of good oil ; fry of a good colour,

Haricots verds en Etuvée. Green Kidney-beans ſtewed. THE beans being ready boiled, put them in a ſtew- pan, with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, chives or green fhallot, a little good broth, pepper and falt ; reduce the fauce when ready to ſerve, add a liafon made with the yolks of two or three eggs and a little cream ; add a few drops of verjuice, vinegar, or the fqueeze of a lemon,

Haricots verds aux Capers. Green Kidney-beans with Capers. THE beans being boiled as the preceding , put them in

a few-pan with fome good

gravy, a little butter rolled in flour, a faggot of parfley and fweet-herbs,

chopt . capers,

pepper

MODERN COOKERY.

425

pepper and falt ; the fauce ought to be very thick, which may be done by adding flour at diſcretion .

Haricots verds á l'Oignons. Green Kidney-beans with Onions. THE beans being boiled as ufual, make a brown with butter and flour, put fome fliced onions to it, let them fry a little , then add fome good gravy ;

ftew till the onions are

done, then add the beans , a little vinegar, pepper, and falt ; make the fauce pretty thick ; you may alſo add a little muſtard .

Haricots Verds en Salade. Green Kidney-beans dreffed as Salad. THE beans being boiled,

put them in a

ftew-pan with oil , vinegar, pepper, falt, chopt parfley, and ſhallots ;

warm this

together,

and garniſh the dish with fried bread . N. B. You may alſo ſerve it cold as a falad , adding two anchovies chopt very fine in the feaſoning. Artichauts en Accolade.

Artichokes foldered or glued together. TAKE ten or twelve artichoke-bottoms , and braze them ; when properly trimmed , put a little falpicon farcie between two of them, and fo on as many as you pleaſe ; rub the borders with yolks of eggs, which makes the foldering ; dip them in eggs, and ftrew breadcurmbs

CE

THE

426

CTI

PRA

OF

crumbs over ; fry them in hog's -lard of a fine

gold colour,

and garnish

with fried

parſley. Artichauts au Pere Bernard. Artichokes Father Bernard's faſhion . CUT the artichokes in two, and trim infide and outſide properly ; braze them in a light braze to about three parts ; then drain , flour, and fry them in hog's - lard ; garnish with fried . parſley.

Baignets des Artichauts.

Artichoke-fritters .

TAKE ready brazed or boiled artichokebottoms, cut each in four quarters, and dip them in pretty thick batter, made with flour, one egg, a little falt, and white-wine ; fry them in hog's-lard of a good colour,

and

garniſh with fried parſley. Artichauts frites .

Artichokes fried.

CUT three or four young artichokes in 16 four or five pieces each, trim the bottoms both infide and outfide, leaving only two or three of the tendereft leaves at each piece ; put them in freſh water about an hour, then drain them well, and put them in batter for an hour longer, made of flour, yolks of eggs , and a little falt ; fry them crifp in very hot hog's -lard, and garnish with fried parſley.

Artichauts

+

MODERN COOKERY.

427

Artichauts au Prévôt. Artichokes Provoſt or Sheriff Faſhion . BRAZE

eight or ten

artichoke-bottoms ;

while they are doing , prepare a fauce as follows Slice three or four onions, and fry them in butter, turning often till they are of a gold colour ; then add a little cullis, or duft in a little flour, and add fome good gravy ; let it ftew about half an hour ; then add a chopt anchovy, a little pepper, and a liafon made with the yolks of two eggs and a little cream ; put the artichokes

upon the table-

diſh, and pour this fauce over them ; then ftrew them over with raſped Parmeſan - cheeſe and bread-crumbs ; put it in the oven to take colour ; ferve quite hot.

Artichauts à la Mayence. Artichokes with Weftphalia Ham . CUT eight or ten flices of ham, put them in a ftew-pan with a little butter, foak over a flow fire until done ; then put the flices upon the table-diſh, and upon each flice a brazed artichoke-bottom ; put a little cullis and jellybroth into the pan , with a little butter rolled in flour, a little pepper, and vinegar ; fimmer a little, and ferve it upon the artichoke-bottoms.

Artichauts en Gelée.

Artichokes in Jelly. 3

BRAZE as many artichoke- bottoms in a

light

THE

428

PRACTICE OF

light well-ſeaſoned braze as will fill your dish ; put them on the table- diſh, and pour as much good clear jelly over, as will cover them ; let them cool, before you ferve them

up. Artichauts en Chryfeaux. Artichokes in transparent Jelly. THE artichoke-bottoms being brazed as the preceding, put them on the table- diſh ; then cut cold jelly in little rocky pieces , and put over and round the bottoms.

Artichaut á la Bafbau. Artichokes Bafhaw -fashion. THE

artichoke-bottoms being brazed

as

uſual,

make a ſauce with a piece of butter,

chopt

parfley, fhallots, chives, muſhrooms,

and fome good gravy ; ftew fome time, till the herbs are done ; then beat up the yolks of two or three eggs , with a little fcalded . chopt chervil, a little vinegar, pepper, ſalt, and a little grated nutmeg ; add this to the fauce, keep it ftirring until it is thickened like a fricaffee, bottoms .

and ferve it upon the artichoke-

Artichauts á la St Claud. Artichokes St Claud-faſhion . TRIM the artichokes properly, and cut the leaves pretty fhort ; boil them in water until the

MODERN COOKERY. the choak quits, and take it out ;

429

drain, and

fill them with a ragout of fat livers , muſhrooms, or any other kind you think proper; put a little forced- meat over the ragout and leaves , and ftrew bread-crumbs over ; bafte with butter ; rub a baking-diſh with butter, and put them in it ; bake, in a middling hot oven, of a good colour ; when ready to ferve, drain the fat off, and lay them on the diſh you intend for table ; make a little hole in the middle of each, and pour a little good cullis and the ſqueeze of a lemon in them ; ferve quite hot. N. B. The French bake them with thin . flices of bacon and veal. Artichauts aux Farcies des Trufes. Artichokes with Truffle Forced- meat. TAKE eight or ten ready brazed or boiled artichoke-bottoms ; fill them with a forcedmeat made with chopt truffles, fweet herbs , a little pepper, falt, and the yolk of one egg ; put them in a ſtew-pan with a little cullis and a glaſs of white-wine, and ſtew them over a flow fire about a quarter of an hour ; when ready to ferve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon.

Fricaffée des Artichauts . Fricaffee of Artichokes . HAVE artichoke-bottoms brazed or boiled as the preceding ; then put in a ſtew- pan a little butter, two or three thin flices of veal, a

E

THE PRACTIC

OF

430 a flice of ham, a little parfley and fhallots , and three cloves ; foak this a little over a flow fire ; then add a little good broth ; ftew it flowly about an hour, and ftrain it through a fieve ; thicken it with the yolks of three or four eggs , a little cream, and a bit of butter ; feafon with pepper and falt, and ferve it upon the bottoms : you may alfo add a few whole 44 mushrooms . Artichauts á la Hollandois.

Artichokes Dutch-faſhion. TAKE fix or eight artichoke-bottoms brazed very tender,

and put them in a few- pan

with a little good broth, a little butter rolled in flour, pepper and falt, a faggot of fweet herbs ; ſtew over a flow fire about a quarter of an hour ; when ready to ſerve, add a little boiled chopt parfley and the ſqueeze of a lemon. Artichauts en Salade. Artichokes dreffed as Salad. TAKE as many brazed artichoke-bottoms as you think proper, and garnish them with fillets

of anchovies

(being

firſt ſoaked in

water) and capers ; if the capers are large mince them ; if fmall, leave them whole : garniſh with ſmall falad round, ſeaſoned with oil, vinegar, falt, and muſtard.

Choux-

MODERN COOKERY .

431

Choux-fleurs bouilli . Cauliflowers plain boiled. BOIL your cauliflowers in fpring-water, with falt and a little butter ; take them off the fire before they are quite done ; let them lie for fome time in the water they were boiled in ; when well drained , place them properly on the table-diſh : ſerve with a little beat butter over ; or make a fauce with ſome beat butter, cream, pepper, falt, and a little grated nutmeg, and pour over it. N. B. If you ftew them a little in the fauce, they will have the better tafte, but will not look fo well.

Choux-fleurs en Ragout. Ragout of Cauliflowers. BOIL the cauliflowers in good broth , with a little falt and butter ; drain , and lay them handfomely on the difh,

and ferve a well-

tafted ragout over, fuch as muſhrooms , fat livers , & c . & c.

Choux-fleurs á la Reine. Cauliflowers with Queen's Sauce. PUT a little butter in a ſtew-pan, with a little veal and a flice of ham cut fmall, parſley, ſhallots, half a clove of garlick, and fliced carrots ; foak this fome time over the fire ; then

drudge in a little flour ,

add

a

little good jelly- broth and half a pint of good cream ; let it ftew about half an hour, then ftrain

THE PRACTICE OF

432

ftrain it through a fieve ; ſeaſon it with pepper, falt, and the fqueeze of a lemon ; put part of it in the table- difh, then the cauliflowers, being boiled as the former, then the remainder of the fauce ; ftrew bread- crumbs over, baſte with butter, and put it in the oven to take colour.

Choux-fleurs au Jus. Cauliflowers with Gravy. THE

cauliflowers being boiled in water,

put them in a ſtew-pan much of their bigness , the ftalks upwards ;

put fome good gravy

over it, and foak it fome time over a flow fire ; then put it

properly upon the table-diſh

then pour fome good cullis over, thickened with butter and flour ; feafon with pepper and falt. Choux-fleurs au Parmefan. Cauliflowers with Parmefan-cheeſe.

THE cauliflowers being boiled as the preceding, put it neatly on the table-diſh, pour fome gravy upon it ; ftrew Parmefan-cheeſe over, and put it in the oven to take colour ; ferve quite hot. Baignets des Choux-fleurs . Cauliflower-fritters . BOIL the cauliflowers as ufual ,

and dip

them in batter made of flour , yolks of eggs , a little falt, and white-wine ; fry them in

hog's-

MODERN COOKERY.

433

hog's -lard of a good colour, and garniſh with 1 fried parſley .

Choux- brocales !

Brocoli white or green .

TRIM the ftringy rind well off, leaving only the hearts of the ftems and head-tops ; boil them in plain water, with falt and a little butter ; drain, and put them properly on the tablediſh ; pour fome beat butter or fome good cullis over them. You may alſo dress them in every reſpect the fame as cauliflowers . Choux à la Marefchal. Cabbage Marefchal -faſhion . CUT a pound of pickled pork in middling pieces, cut a large favoy cabbage in quarters ; fcald them together about ten minutes ; then drain them, and cut out the ftems ; tie up the favoy in quarters with pack- thread ; braze it together with the pickled

pork in good

broth, with a faggot of parſley, ſweet herbs, fennel, three onions ftuck with each clove, four whole fhallots, two fpoonfuls of good oil,

"

whole pepper, and a little falt ; when

throughly brazed, ftrain and ſkim the liquor ; mix part of it with a little cullis ; reduce it to a proper confiftence ; wipe the favoys very well, and put them on the table- diſh , laying the pork over them, and the fauce over all. N. B. You may drefs any forts of cabbages

E e

after

THE

434

PRACTICE

OF

after this manner ; but favoys is thought the beft.

Choux farcies. Cabbages ftuffed with Forced-meat. TAKE one or two cabbages according to their bignefs ; trim off the outfide leaves to the

heart ; then blanch them in boiling • water about a quarter of an hour ; then

drain them , and ſqueeze the water out, and take up the leaves one by one ; wrap fome good veal, or poultry forced -meat, in every four leaves ; tie them round as many as you propoſe for a diſh, and braze them in a wellfeafoned braze ; when done, drain, and wipe them very well with a cloth, put them upon the table-diſh, and ſerve with a good reliſh-ing cullis-fauce. N. B. If you intend to garniſh any kind of brazed or boiled meat with them, cut each in quarters. Choux à la St Claud. Cabbages St Claud-faſhion . MINCE five or fix ounces of veal , and as much of ham ; ſeaſon this with chopt parſley, fhallots , little

green onions,

melted butter or

pepper, falt, and a lard ; take

a whole

cabbage, blanched as the preceding, and ſtuff the farcie between every two leaves ; tie it up round, and braze it with flices of bacon, fome good broth, and a little white-wine ; when

MODERN COOKERY.

435

when thoroughly done, wipe the fat off, and ferve a Spaniſh-fauce over it ; which you will find how to make in the Sauce-articles .

Choux á la Lyonoife . Cabbage Lyons -faſhion . BLANCH the cabbage as the preceding, and ftuff it with fliced ſauſages and ſtewed cheftnuts ; braze it as uſual, and ſerve with a good reliſhing cullis-fſauce. Choux au Ragout de Ris. Cabbage with a Ragout of Sweetbreads .

SCALD the cabbages in boiling water ; then cut them in quarters ; take out the ſtem , and ſqueeze the water out ; tie each quarter up with pack-thread, and braze them in a light braze ; take

when done, drain and wipe them;

off the pack-thread,

place

them on

the table-diſh, and ferve with a ragout fweetbreads.

of

Choux-rouge et Sauciffes. Red-cabbage and Sauſages . SLICE down as many red-cabbages as you propofe for a difh ; put them in a goblet, with a piece of butter, two flices of baconham, two or three fliced onions , pepper, and falt ; foak it over a flow fire about half an hour ; then add a little good broth or gravy, and a gill of red-wine ; when done, ferve with fried fauſages round. Ee 2

Epinards

CE

CTI

436

THE PRA

OF

Epinards á la bonne femme. Spinage the good Houſe-wife Faſhion .

PICK and

wash the fpinage very

well ;

put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, a faggot of parſley and fhallots , pepper, and falt ; ftew on a flow fire, ftirring now and then ; when ready to ferve, add a little butter rolled in flour, and a ſpoonful of ſugar ; garniſh with fried bread . Epinards á la Crême. Spinage with Cream. WHEN picked and waſhed as the preceding ; boil them in water with a little falt ; when done,

drain,

and ſqueeze the water

very well from them ; when well

minced ,

put them in a ſtew-pan with a piece of butter, a little falt, and nutmeg ; ftew on a flow fire a little while ; then add a little flour and fome cream ; garniſh with fried bread .

Epinards á la St Claud. Spinage St Claud-faſhion . THE fpinage being picked and fcalded , drain it, and put it to ftew with a little butter, a flice of ham, a faggot of parſley, fhallots, and green onions ; fimmer a little while over a flow fire ; then take out the ham and faggot ; add a little cream, cullis , pepper, and falt ; reduce the fauce pretty thick ; garniſh with fried bread , Epinards

437

MODERN COOKERY.

Epinards en Tabatiers. Spinage in Snuff- boxes. CUT pieces of ftale bread pretty thick, and give them the form of fnuff-boxes , of whatever ſhape you pleaſe ; leave a pretty thick border, and fry them of a good colour in hog's-lard , oil, or butter ; when well drained , fill them with a ragout of fpinage,

cover them with

the pieces which was cut off the tops, and ferve quite hot.

Oignons en Etuveé avec Laitances des Carpes. Onions ftewed with Carp-roes. BLANCH eight pretty large onions in boiling water ; then make a brown , called (by the French) a rifolet, with flour and butter ; when of a fine brown , add fome oniongravy, and the blanched onions, fome muſhrooms ,

a faggot of parsley, green onions,

fhallots ,

and fweet herbs ; when they

are

almoſt done, put the carp-roes to it, and ſtew a little while longer ; then take out the faggot, add a glaſs of white-wine,

and reduce the

fauce to a proper confiftance ; when ready to ſerve, ſeaſon with falt, and add fome chopt capers bread.

or anchovies ;

garnish

with

fried

Oignons avec Ragout de Ris de Veau. Onions with a Ragout of Veal Sweetbreads . TRIM fix large

onions Ee 3

properly ; braze them

438

THE PRACTICE OF

them with a few flices of thin bacon , fome broth, a faggot of parfley and fweet herbs, a little falt, and whole pepper ; ſtew on a flow fire till they are throughly done, then drain, and wipe them with a clean cloth ; put them upon the table- diſh, and ferve with a ragout of ſweetbreads over.

You may alſo

ferve a ragout of fat livers upon them, or any other you think proper.

Oignons à l'Italienne.

Onions Italian -faſhion .

TRIM as many large onions as will ferve for a diſh, ſcoop the infide out, as clean as poffible, and fill them with a good raw forced- meat made of veal or poultry ; braze them with a few thin flices of bacon, a good flice of ham, fome good broth, a faggot of parfley

and fweet

herbs ,

a little falt, and

whole pepper ; when done, drain , and wipe them very well ; ferve with an Italian-fauce over, which you will find how to make in the Sauce -articles. Oignons à l'Espagnole.

Onions Spaniſh- faſhion .

THE onions being finished as the preceding, put in a ſtew-pan a few flices of veal and ham, two flices of fat bacon, one onion , a fliced carrot, and a little parfnip ; foak it over a flow fire till it begin to take colour ; then add a little cullis and broth, a gill of white-wine, one fpoonful of good oil, a little coriander-

MODERN COOKERY. coriander-feed, laurel- leaf,

two

a few

439

cloves of garlick, one of tarragon ,

and three

cloves ; ſtew thefe together, till the meat is done; when ready to ferve, fkim and ſtrain the fauce, and ferve it over the onions. Cardes á la Reine.

Cardoons with Queen's Sauce. CUT the cardoons to what

length you

think proper ; pick the ſtringy part very clean off the heart, and cutthem in halves or quarters ; boil them in water with a little butter rolled in flour, or bits of beef-fuet, and two flices of peeled lemon ; when done, drain them well, and ferve them in queen's fauce, which you will find how to make in the Sauce- articles."

Cardes au Parmefan. Cardoons with Parmefan-cheeſe. THE cardoons being boiled as the precedput a little cullis in the table-diſh , as

ing,

many little pieces of fried bread as cardoons , properly laid upon the bread, a little more cullis over, and rafped Parmeſan-cheeſe over all ;

put it in the oven till of a fine gold

colour : you may alſo ſerve them with a good cullis -fauce, and the ſqueeze of a lemon. Navets en Cardes.

Turnips as Cardoons.

TAKE fome French turnips, cut each

in

quarters lengthways, and give them the ſhape of cardoons by cutting little ribs in them as in Ee 4

cardoons ;

449

THE PRACTICE OF

cardoons ; boil them in the fame manner, and ferve with a good reliſhing cullis -fauce. Concombres Farcies.

Cucumbers ftuffed with Forced-meat, PEEL as many cucumbers as you propoſe for a diſh; take out the middle with an applecorer, blanch them a little in boiling water, and fill them with a forced - meat made of roafted poultry ; braze them with fome thin flices of bacon , a little broth, two or three onions, a faggot of parsley and fweet herbs, one carrot fliced, three cloves , a little whole pepper, and falt ; when done, drain and wipe them, and ferve with a good reliſhing cullisfauce,

Concombres au Parmefan . Cucumbers with Parmefan-cheeſe . THE Cucumbers being trimmed and brazed as the preceding, put a little cullis in the table-diſh, then the cucumbers , then a little more cullis and raſped Parmeſan - cheeſe , and bread- crumbs over all ; give them a colour in the oven .

Concombres á la Poulette. Fricaffee of Cucumbers, CUT the cucumbers in large dices ; blanch them a few minutes in boiling water ; then drain, and put them in a ftew- pan with a piece of butter, a flice of ham, chopt parſley , fhallots ,

MODERN COOKERY.

441

fhallots, pepper, and falt ; foak them a little over a flow fire, then add a little broth , and ſtew flowly till done ; then thicken it with a liafon made of the yolks of three eggs beat up with a little verjuice or vinegar, a little butter rolled in flour, and grated nutmeg . Champignons à la St Menehoult. Broiled Mushrooms. CLEAN as many large muſhrooms as you propoſe for a diſh ; then chop two or three, and mix them with chopt parfley, fhallots, green onions, pepper, and falt ; give this a fry in a little butter, and put it upon the infide of the muſhrooms ; ftrew bread- crumbs over, and baſte them with a little butter ; broil them over a clear flow fire ; you may alfo bake them in the oven .

Champignons en Etuvée.

Stewed Muſhrooms.

THE muſhrooms being well cleaned , put them in a ſtew- pan with a piece of butter, chopt parfley, fhallots, and a flice of ham ; foak them over the fire a little while, then add a little jelly-broth, a glaſs of white-wine, pepper,

and ſalt ;

much ; when you with fried bread.

reduce the fauce ferve,

pretty

garniſh the

diſh

Champignons en Fricaffée. Fricaffee of Muſhrooms . PUT the mushrooms in a ſtew- pan , with a

THE PRACTICE OF

442

a piece of butter, a ſlice of ham, a faggot of parſley and ſweet-herbs ; ſoak it over a flow fire a little while, then duft a little flour over them , add a little

good broth, and ſeaſon

with pepper and falt ; when done, take out the ham and faggot, and thicken it with a liafon made of the yolks of three eggs mixed with cream ; you may add a little grated nutmeg , and the ſqueeze of a lemon ; ferve upon the cruft of a French roll in the diſh .

Champignons en Canellons. Mushrooms baked or fried in Pafte . CUT the muſhrooms in dices ; put them in a ftew-pan, with

a piece of butter, chopt

parſley, ſhallots , green onions, pepper, and falt; foak it fome time over the fire ; then add a little good broth ; ftew flowly till the muſhrooms are done, and the fauce much reduced ; thicken as a fricaffee, with the yolks of three eggs, beat up with a little cream : add the fqueeze of a lemon , and put them to cool ; then roll fome puff- paſte pretty thin, cut it in pieces longer than broad, and put the ragout in them ; wet the borders with water, to make the pafte ftick together ; bake or fry them of a good colour, and ferve without garniſhing or fauce.

Inftead ofthickening

them as a fricaffee, you may ſtew the muſhrooms in a little good cullis ; make it pretty reliſhing.

Gham-

MODERN COOKERY.

443

Champignon Farcies. Muſhrooms ftuffed with Forced-meat. TRIM the mushrooms properly, and fill the infides

with a good forced -meat made of

roafted poultry or veal ; ftrew them over with bread-crumbs, baſte them with butter,

bake

in the oven till of a good colour, and ferve a good reliſhing cullis -fauce under.

Champignons en Salade.

Muſhrooms as Salad.

CUT the muſhrooms in dices, and fimmer them a little in oil and the juice of a lemon ; then drain ,

and fet them to

cool ;

when

cold, put them in the middle

of the difh,

and garnish round with chopt

parſley and

fhallots , ſeaſoned with pepper, falt, oil , and vinegar.

Champignons à l'Italienne. Muſhrooms Italian-faſhion . THE muſhrooms being trimmed and cleaned properly,

put them in a ftew- pan, with a

glafs of white-wine, as much oil, the juice of a lemon, chopt parfley, ſhallots , green onions , and a faggot of ſweet herbs, pepper, and falt ; fimmer a little over a flow fire, then put them to cool ; then fry them a little in butter, being first cut in dices, and put to the muſhrooms ; put them on the table-diſh : then waſh and bone a dozen anchovies, and cut them in

444

THE PRACTICE OF

in fillets to garniſh the mushrooms ; ſerve cold .

Champignons á la Italienne, un autre façon. Muſhrooms Italian- faſhion, in a different

manner. TRIM and clean the muſhrooms properly, and put them in a ſtew-pan; mince a few muſhrooms and add to them, with chopt parſley, green onions, one clove of garlick, a little fweet- bafil, a glass of white- wine, and half as much fine oil ; ftew them a little, then put them on the table-difh with their fauce ; ftrew them over with bread-crumbs , and give them a colour in the oven.

Champignons en Ragout. Ragout of Muſhrooms . PUT the mushrooms in a fſtew-pan, with a little butter, a flice of ham , a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs ; foak them over a flow fire a little while, then add a little brown cullis ; ſtew flowly till they are done, and ſkim the fat very clean off ; make them

pretty

reliſhing with pepper, falt, and the juice of a lemon ; ferve with a cruft of bread below them in the diſh.

Poudre des Champignons, des Trufes et Morilles. Powder of Muſhrooms, Truffles , and Morels. TAKE muſhrooms, truffles, and morels, of each a pound ; dry them in the fun, or in the oven

MODERN COOKERY .

445

oven after the bread is drawn ; then pound them all together ; fift it, and put it in a bottle or tin-pot, cloſe it well, and keep it in a dry place to preſerve the flavour : you may uſe it the whole year, with your ragouts, pies, hot or cold ; alfo to feafon larding bacon with. Morelles au Prince . Morels Princes-fafhion . TAKE large morels, and foak them in ſeveral waters ; warm and pour them from one pan to another to beat out the fand ; cut off the ftalks,

and ftuff them with a forced-meat

made of roafted poultry, and feaſoning as ufual ; braze them with a few thin flices of veal, bacon and ham, a faggot of parſley and fweet-herbs ; when done tender , take them out, wipe the fat off, and keep them warm ; add a little good broth to the fauce ; ſtew together a little while ; then ſkim and ftrain it through a ſieve, add the ſqueeze of a lemon , and ferve upon the morels . Morelles au Lard.

Morels with Bacon.

CUT a quarter of a pound of bacon in flices, fat and lean together ; foak it in a ftew-pan

over the fire till it is done, the

morels being well washed ; give them a few turns in the fame pan, taking the bacon out and keeping it warm ; put a little butter to the fat, then take them out, to marinade fome time in melted butter and oil, chopt parſley, ſhallots , pepper, and falt ; then roll them in bread-

446

THE PRACTICE OF

bread-crumbs , and put them on ſmall ſkewers to broil flowly, bafting with the remainder of of the marinade, and the fat in which they were toffed ; when properly broiled , put the flices of bacon fingly on the table- diſh , and the morels over ; ferve without fauce.

Morelles en Fricaffee.

Fricaffee of Morels.

WHEN the morels are well cleaned, cut them in flices , and put them in a ſtew-pan , with a little butter, a faggot of parſley and fweet herbs, and a flice of ham ; foak them over a flow fire fome time, then duft a little flour over, and add a little broth, a glaſs of white-wine, pepper, and falt ; let them ftew flowly till tender ; when ready to ſerve, add a liafon made of the yolks of three eggs and cream, a little grated nutmeg, and chopt parfley; add the fqueeze of a lemon , and ferve upon a piece of fried bread cut as a toaft.

Morelles á la Provençale. Morels Provence-faſhion .

THE morels being properly washed, trimmed , and drained, put them in a few-pan, with a piece of butter, a faggot of ſweet-herbs , a flice of ham, chopt parſley, fhallots , pepper, and ſalt ; fimmer on a flow fire till they are done, then take out the ham and faggot, and ferve upon a piece of bread as the preceding .

Morelles

MODERN

COOKERY.

447

Morelles á l'Italienne. Morels Italian-faſhion . THE morels being well cleaned, cut off the ftalks, and cut each in four ; when well drained put them in a ftew-pan, with a piece of butter, a faggot of parfley and fweet- herbs , and a flice of ham ; foak them over a flow fire fome time ; then duft a little flour over, moiſten it with a little gravy and a glaſs of white-wine, and add one clove of garlick ; when ready to ferve, add a little cullis, a ſpoonful of oil, and the juice of a lemon ; ferve upon a piece of bread as the former .

Trufes á la Marefchal. Truffles Marefchal-faſhion . SOAK them a little in warm water, and clean them very carefully with a bruſh ; ſeafon them with pepper and falt, wrapt up in paper; put them in an

iron-pot or ſkillet

without liquor ; bury the pot in warm aſhes, an hour and a half; take the paper off, and ſerve hot in a napkin.

Trufes au Court Bouillon. Truffles plain boiled. THE Truffles being cleaned as the preceding, ftew them in half water and half wine, with fliced carrots , onions , a faggot of parſley and ſweet-herbs : if large, ſtew them flowly

448

THE PRACTICE OF

flowly about two hours ; if middling ones , about an hour : ferve hot in a napkin .

Trufes en Puits. Truffles ftuffed with Forced- meat. THE truffles being well cleaned , fcoop the inſide out, without ſplitting them ; mince what you take out with beef-marrow, fat livers, chopt

parfley, fhallots, pepper, and

falt, and mix it with the yolks of two or three eggs ; ftuff the truffles with this forced- meat , and cover the holes with the pieces which were cut off; braze them with a few flices of veal,

ham, and bacon, a faggot of parſley

and ſweet-herbs , and a gill of white- wine ; when they are throughly done, add a little cullis ; take out the truffles , and reduce the fauce to a good confiftence ;

ſkim it

very

well, and ftrain it ; add the fqueeze of a lemon, and ferve it upon the truffles . Trufes en Ragout.

Ragout of Truffles.

TRUFFLES which have been ſerved at table will ferve for this purpoſe, ſuch as have been brazed , boiled , or baked ; make a fauce with chopt parfley. fhallots,

a little fweet-bafil,

cullis , a glass of white-wine, pepper, and falt ; cut the truffles in thick flices, and put them in the fauce ; ftew on a flow fire fome time, add the fqueeze of a lemon, and ſerve quite hot.

Boudin

MODERN COOKERY.

449

Boudins despieds de Veau. Calves-feet Puddings . TAKE

of calves feet

ready

boiled

one

pound, and mince it very fmall ; three quarters of a pound of beef-fuet, minced as fmall as poffible ;

candied

orange

and citron

peel,

of each an ounce, cut in dices ; half a pound of currants , a whole nutmeg grated, a little falt and fugar : mix them well together, with eight eggs (leaving out three of the whites) , and a little bread-crumbs ; beat all together ; then flour your pudding-cloth , and tie it up very clofe ; boil it about two hours and a half, and ferve with a fauce made of melted butter, fugar, and white-wine .

Boudin de Naffau.

Naffau Pudding.

TAKE eight eggs, with only four of the whites, and half a pound of freſh butter ; put them in a ſtew-pan , with half a pound of loaffugar pounded ; put it over a flow-fire ; keep ftirring it gently one way, until the butter is quite diffolved ; have your baking -diſh ſheeted with a piece of thin puff-paſte on the bottom and fides, which rub over with a little orange- marmalade ;

a little time

bakes

it ;

ferve with grated fugar over, Boudin des Amandes.

Almond-Pudding.

TAKE half a pound of Jordan almonds , and blanch them in boiling water ; then huſk and Ff pound

450

THE PRACTICE OF

pound them very fine with a little rofe-water or cream ; then boil a quart of cream , with a piece of cinnamon and lemon- peel ; when it is cold, mix it with the almonds, and a little grated bread , eight eggs , but three whites , a nutmeg grated, and as much fine fugar as will ſweeten it properly ; beat theſe well. together ; put puff-paſte in the bottom of your baking-diſh, juft before you put it in the oven, add a quarter of a pound of melted butter, and pour the ingredients in the baking-diſh ; bake about an hour, and ferve with grated fugar over. Another. BLANCH and pound a quarter of a pound of Jordan almonds, and three bitter ones, very fine, keeping them wet with ratafia or brandy ; beat the yolks of fix eggs to a cream ; pound and fift a quarter of a pound of fugar, and mix it with the eggs by degrees, keeping them whiſking all the time, then your almonds, then put in three ounces of beat butter ; put it in the oven as ſoon as poffible, with puff-paſte about the diſh, half You muſt beat, or oil, an hour will bake it. ſkim, and bottom all your butter for baking puddings , and

let it be almoſt cold before

you put it in : you may alfo make them as large as you pleaſe, keeping by the above rule.

Boudin

MODERN COOKERY .

451

Boudin de Citron. Lemon Pudding. GRATE the rind of two or

three good

lemons, and put it to fteep in a glafs ofbrandy ; then grate two fpunge- biſcuits, and mix with it ; beat the yolks of eight eggs , and two of the whites ; pound and fift half a pound of fugar, and mix with the eggs by degrees ; then

add the

grated

biſcuit,

brandy,

and

lemon-peel, keep beating all the while ; put puff-paſte about the difh ;

and juſt as

are going to put it in the dish, pound of beat butter,

you

add half a

which muſt be almoft

cold. Another. BOIL the ſkins of three lemons till they are very tender, then pound them very fine ; beat the yolks of ten eggs to a cream ; pound and fift half a pound of fugar, and mix it with the eggs by degrees ; then add the pounded lemons , and beat all well together ; garniſh the diſh with puff-pafte ; and juft before you put it in the oven, add half a pound of beat or oiled butter, half an hour will bake it ; ferve it with grated fugar over.

Boudin d'Orange.

Orange Fudding.

You may make it in every reſpect as the preceding ; only you muſt boil the ſkins in Ff2 five

THE PRACTICE OF

452

five or fix different waters, to take the bitternefs off.

Orange Pudding another fashion . GRATE the rind of three oranges, and fteep it in

a glaſs

of brandy ; beat the yolks of

twelve eggs till they are thick and white ; pound and fift half a pound of ſingle- refined fugar and mix with the eggs by degrees, with the brandy and orange-rind , alſo the juice of four oranges ;

mix

all

well

together ;

garniſh the diſh with puff- pafte, and pour your ingredients in it ; bake about half an hour. N. B. You muſt add half a pound of beat butter, as already directed .

Another . GRATE the rind of two or three bitter oranges,

only the yellow ; then take two

oranges more,

cut and fqueeze them,

and

ftrain the juice from the feeds to the grated peel ;

then put into a ftew- pan or bafon

half a pound of bread-crumbs , and pour upon it half a pint of white-wine

fcalding

hot ; add the grated peel and juice, ftir it together, and let it foak fome time ; beat • the

yolks of eight eggs, and four

of the

whites ; pound and fift three quarters of a pound of fugar, and add to the eggs ; then add the bread, & c. and mix all well together;

gar-

1 MODERN COOKERY.

453

garniſh the diſh with a fheet of puff-paſte ; when you are going to put it in the oven, add half a pound of melted butter , and bake about an hour ; it eats well hot or cold. Boudin des Pommes.

Apple Pudding.

TAKE ten or twelve large pippins, or any other good ſtewing Apples, pare them, and take out the cores ; put them in a ftew-pan,. with a little water, and ſtew them till they are foft and thick ; then beat them very well, and ftir in five or fix ounces of good freſh butter, half a pound of loaf-fugar, the juice of two lemons , and the rind grated ; beat up the yolks of ten eggs , and add to it ; beat all well together ; fheet your diſh with puffpaſte, and put the ingredients in it ; bake about half an hour,

and ferve with grated

fugar over. Boudin des Pommes à Bouilli.

A boiled Apple Pudding. ROLL out a piece of puff- pafte half an inch thick;

pare and core the

apples , cut

them in quarters, and fill the pafte ; ſeaſon with

1 fugar, grated lemon-peel, and a little pounded cinnamon ; clofe it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil it two hours, or three if a large one ; then turn it out into the diſh, cut a piece out of the top of the paſte, and pour in fome beat butter and fugar, and lay on the piece again.

Ff3

Boudin

THE

PRACTICE OF

454

Boudin des Pommes de Terre. Potato Pudding. BOIL two pounds of potatoes till they are throughly done ; peel and mash them very well ; mix them with half a pound of melted butter, half a pound of fine fugar, half a pound of currants, the yolks of eight eggs, a little grated nutmeg, and a glaſs of brandy ; mix all well together , cover your diſh with puff- paſte, and put the ingredients in it ; bake about half an hour, you may alſo boil it. Boudin des Chataignes. Chefnut Pudding , TAKE a dozen of chefnuts, put them in a ftew-pan with water, and fet them over the fire till they are well blanched ; when cold, pound them very fine, then beat up the yolks of eight eggs, four of the whites , with a pint of good cream , a gill of white- wine , and a glafs of brandy; add the chefnuts, and ſweeten with fine fugar to your palate ; cover your diſh with puff-paſte, pour the ingredients in it, and bake it an hour. Boudin de Ratafia.

Ratafia Pudding.

BOIL 8 a quart of cream with fix laurelleaves ; then take them out, and put in three quarters of a pound of fpunge-biſcuits pounded, a quarter of a pound of butter, a glafs of white-wine, a little grated nutmeg and

MODERN COOKERY.

455

and falt ; take it off the fire, and cover it up; when it is almoſt cold , add a few pounded almonds, with the yolks of eight eggs, and fweeten with fine fugar to your palate ; mix all well together, and bake it about half an hour; you may put pafte in the diſh, as the preceding, if you think proper. Boudin des Confitures. Sweet-meat Pudding. COVER the bottom of your dish with a 1 thin puff-pafte ; then take preferved orange, lemon, and citron peel, of each an ounce, ſlice them very thin, and put them in the bottom on the paſte ; then beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are thick and white, pound and fift fix ounces of loaf- fugar, and add to the eggs by degrees ; when you are going to put it in the oven, add fix ounces of beat or clarified butter ; beat all well together, and pour it over the fweet-meats ; bake about three quarters of an hour,

and

ſerve

with

grated fugar over, Boudin de Vermicelli.

Vermicelli Pudding.

BOIL a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in three half-pints of new milk till it is tender, with the rind of a lemon or Seville orange, a little grated nutmeg and ſalt, ſweeten it to your palate ; when almoft cold, mix it with the yolks of eight eggs, and two whites well beat;

cover the dish with thin

puff-pafte ,

and, juſt before you put it in the oven, ftir in Ff4 fix

1

456 fix

THE PRACTICE OF ounces

of beat butter,

about

half an

hour will bake it ; ferve with grated fugar over.

Boudin des Carottes.

Carrot Pudding.

TAKE half a pound of boiled carrots, and pound them very fine, with half a pound of loaf-fugar ; then beat the yolks of ten eggs till they are thick and white, and mix them with the carrots ; grate the rind of an orange in it ; put pafte upon your

diſh

as uſual,

and as you are going to put it in the oven , add half a pound of melted butter ; about half an hour will bake it ; ferve with grated fugar over. Another.

BOIL a pint of new milk or cream , and pour it over a pound of grated bread ; let it foak fome time ; then mix it with half a pound of grated carrots , eight eggs , and

four of the

whites well beat, a little pounded cinnamon and nutmeg, a gill of white-wine, and a glaſs of brandy ; fweeten it to your palate ; add half a pound of melted butter as ufual ; put puffpaſte in the bottom of your diſh, an hour will bake it. You may alſo boil it ; only keep out the butter, and ferve with a fauce made of beat butter, white-wine, and fugar, either over or in a fauce- boat.

Boudin

MODERN COOKERY.

Boudin de Lait Caillé.

457

Curd Pudding.

TAKE the curd of four quarts of milk, drain the whey well from it, force it through a fieve or drainer, then mix it with the yolks of eight eggs, and four whites, well beat with a little good cream and two table-ſpoonfuls of orange-flower water ; grate in the rind of a lemon , and half a nutmeg ; add a little grated bread, a little flour, a pound of currants, and fweeten it to your palate ; mix all theſe well together, and add a glaſs of brandy, butter your pudding-cloth, and pour the ingredients into it ; tie it up cloſe, and boil it an hour and a quarter ; ferve with a fauce made of melted butter, fugar, and white-wine.

Boudin des Grofeilles.

Gooſeberry Pudding.

TAKE two quarts of goofeberries , fuch as are fit for tarts ; fcald them , and force them through a hair-fieve ; then mix them with half a pound of Naples or fpunge biſcuits, the yolks of eight eggs and four whites well beat, and half a pound of powdered ſugar ; mix all well together, and add fix ounces of melted butter : you may bake it with or without pafte at bottom ; about a quarter of an hour will bake it.

Boudin de Tanéfie.

Tanfy Pudding.

BEAT up the yolks of twelve eggs , and four

THE

458

PRACTICE

four of the whites,

OF

with half a pound of

fine fugar ; then add a pint of good cream , juice of tanfy to your palate, as much ſpinage juice as will give it a proper colour, half a pound

of fpunge-bifcuits

or

fine

bread

grated, a glaſs of brandy, and half a nutmeg grated ;

mix theſe

all

well together,

put

it in a few-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and ſet it over the fire, ftirring it till it is pretty hard ; then pour it in the tabledifh, ftrew fugar and preferved orange fliced over, and bake it in the oven ; you may alſo add a quarter of a pound of fweet- almonds , blanched and pounded.

Another Tanfy Pudding. BEAT

up eight eggs and the whites of

three, with a 1 pint of cream, the crumb of half a penny loaf grated, a penny biſcuit grated, the rind of a lemon boiled and pounded, a little beat cinnamon and nutmeg, a little falt and rofe-water, one glafs of brandy, and add

of a pound of fine fugar ; juice of tanfy to your palate, and green it a

quarter

with juice of fpinage ; mix all well together ; then put it into a ſtew-pan , with a quarter ofa pound of good freſh butter, and ſet it over the fire to thicken, ftirring it all the while ; then bake or fry it, and ferve with grated ſugar over,

Boudin

1

MODERN COOKERY.

459

Boudin de Tanéfie bouillée. Boiled Tanfy Pudding .

GRATE the crumbs of a fine penny loaf, and put it in a ſtew-pan or bowl ; pour a pint of boiling milk on it, and cover it up ; then beat the yolks of ten eggs and four of the whites , with the grate of a lemon, nutmeg, and fugar to your tafte, likewife the juice of fpinage and tanfy to your palate ; mix all well together ; then tie it up in your pudding-cloth, the cloth being firft dipt in boiling water, and well floured ; ferve with a fauce made ofbeat butter, fugar , and white-wine , either over it, or in a fauce-boat ; you may alſo ſtick over with bits of preferved orange and citronpeel. Boudin de Tanéfie et Pommes de Renette. Tanfy and Pippin Pudding. PARE and core fix pippins , and cut them in Alices ; grate the crumb of half a penny-loaf, pour over it a pint of boiling cream , and cover it up for fome time ; then add the yolks of eight eggs , and four whites well beat ; feafon with ſugar, nutmeg, and ginger, with tanfy and fpinage juice to your palate ; mix all well together, either bake or fry it, and ſerve with a fauce as the preceding,

Boudin

CE

460

THE

CTI

PRA

Boudin de Ris.

OF

Rice

Pudding.

Mix a quarter of a pound of the flour of rice, with a quart of new milk, a quarter of a pound of good freſh-butter, the grate of a lemon, and a little grated nutmeg ; fweeten it to your palate ; put it over a flow fire till it is pretty thick, ftirring it all the while ; then fet it to cool ;

when almoft cold ,

add the

yolks of eight eggs, and four of the whites well beat, a little brandy, white-wine, and a little pounded cinnamon ; mix all well together, and bake it either with or without paſte at bottom . Another.

TAKE half a pound of whole rice, pick and waſh it very well, then boil it in a quart of new milk till almoft dry, then ftir in a quarter of a pound of good freſh-butter ; fet it to cool ;

when almoft cold, add the the

yolks of eight eggs, and three of the whites, beat up with a little cream, the grate of a lemon or orange, a little pounded cinnamon and nutmeg, a glaſs of brandy, a quarter of a pound of fine fugar pounded, and fix ounces of currants well picked and

washed ;

mix

all well together, and either bake or boil it ; only, if you boil it, keep out the butter.

Boudin

MODERN COOKERY.

Boudin de Mélon.

461

Melon Pudding.

CUT your melon in ribs, take out all the feeds, pare off the rind, and cut it in pieces ; put into a ftew-pan a little fweet butter and fine fugar to your palate ; add a little of the juice of tamarinds or the juice of a lemon, put it over a flow fire, and let it ſtew till it pulps ; then fet it to cool, and, while cooling , put a piece of thin paſte upon a pudding-cloth ; your melon being cold, & c. put it into your paſte, tie it up, boil it about one hour, and ſerve it with melted butter and fugar over, or in a fauce-boat.

Blanc-mangé.

PUT in

White- eating.

a few-pan two quarts of new

milk, and fet it over the fire until it boil ; then add two ounces of chipt ifinglafs, the rind of a lemon, three

laurel-leaves, a

little cori-

ander-feed, half a pound of fweet almonds, and one ounce ofbitter ditto being firſt blanched and pounded ; take care to add a little milk while

pounding,

otherwiſe they will

oil ;

fweeten to your palate, and keep ftirring all together until the ifinglafs is diffolved ; then ftrain it through a French tammie , and ſet it to cool, ftirring it now and then while cooling : when it begins to thicken , fill your frames ; and when ready to ferve, turn it out upon the table-dish . Jaune-

462

MODERN

Jaune-mangé.

COOKERY .

Yellow- eating.

TAKE two ounces of ifinglafs , diffolve it in a pint of boiling water, then ftrain it, 1 and add the rind of a lemon ; let it ftand till cold ; then add the yolks of ten eggs well beat, a pint of Sherry or Rheniſh wine, the juice of three lemons, with fugar to your palate ; mix your ingredients well together, then put it over a flow fire, and keep ſtirring until it is near the boil ; then take it off the fire, and continue ſtirring one way until cold enough to put into your moulds.

GLOS-

GLOSSARY.

Farcie, forced- meat. Friture, any things that ferves to fry in. B. Fritters, fmall pancakes, Braze, to ſtew over a flow fire. Frites, fried. Blanch, to ſcald, to ſoak in water, to Frais, frefh. take out the blood , to whiten, &c. G. Barding, to wrap or cover with pieces of bacon. Grits, known in Scotland by the name of groats, oats fhelled. Bechamel, a white cullis-fauce. Gras, fat flesh, &c. Blanqueet, a hafhy fricaffee. Gratin, that catches at bottom. Brills, a fish fomething like turbot. Grenadins, fmall fricandeaux. Becaffines, fnipes. Ballon, in form of a foot-ball. Girkins, fmall cucumbers. Grille, broiled. Blanc-mange, white-eating. SPIC, a fharp fauce or jelly. Aloyace, firloin of beef.

C. Confomme, ftrong clear broth, jellybroth. Chibbol, fmall onion. Catch or catching, to adhere to the bottom of a pan, & c. Caramel, glaze or glazing. Cullis, thick fauce. Coul or Caul, the fat web that covers the guts. Canelon , in form of a large gun. Cervelas , faufages. Calves -cauldron , calves ſmall tripes . Culottes, the two hind-quarters of any animal dreſſed without being feparated . Cardoons, a Spaniſh plant ſomething like artichokes. Corkants, a paſte for ornament. Compete, any thing ſtewed. Collote, rump of beef.

H. Harricot, a difh made with roots, Haflets, liverand flee ofhogs, &c.

L. Liafon, conglutinating different liquids without boiling. Lazagne, an Italian paſte. Lard, larding bacon, Lard, hogs fat clarified. Lardoons, bacon cut in large pieces for larding. Larding, bacon inferted into a piece of meat. Lentils, any thing contained in ſhells or huſks, as peaſe, beans, &c. Leveret, a young hare.

M. Minionette-cloth, a ſmall bag. Meagre, without flesh-meat. Marinade, to foak in a pickle. D. Marbree, marble-coloured. Dobe, larded with large lardons. Macaroni-drops, a certain kind of bifcuit. Darde, a large flice of fiſh cut lengthwife. E. N. Entree, a courfe of diſhes. Nofegay, a faggot of parfley, onions, fhallots, &c. F. 0. Fricandeau, a piece of meat larded, brazed, and glazed. Omelets, pancakes. Fricaffee, ftewed and thickened with P. a liafon. Flee, hogs feam. Poivrade, a harpe fauce. Parce

464

GLOSSARY.

Puree, peafe-foup.

Q Quenelles, forced- meat balls. R. Ragout, high-feaſoned. Reveil, to quicken the palate. Rocombole, a reliſhing herb. Rifle, any thing fried brown. Remoulade, mustard- ſauce. Ramequins, cheeſecakes. Roumeftee, jelly-broth of fragments.

capon- livers, pullets, &c. Salmix, a hash or haſhie. Scutcheons, in form of fhields in armorial bearings, or as fancy directs. Surpriſe, ſtuffed or covered with forced-meat. T. Tourte, a pie or tart. Tartlets, fmall tarts. Timbale, a mould. U. Verjuice, a liquid make from grapes or wild apples, called in Scotland crab-apples, found in woods.

S. Stock, ftrong broth. Semouill, an Italian paſte. Tofimmer, to Toak on a flow fire. Salpicon, a ragout or farcie made of left barm .

Y.

IN-

1 1

IN

D

USTRIAN foup, 24 A Almond-milk foup , 31 Admiral-fauce, 36 Acid ditto 49 351 Apricot tart or pie, 355 Apple tart or pie, Almond-paste with ice-cream, 360 Almond-cakes, 364 Almond-cream, 382 384 Apple- fritters on pedeſtals, maſked, ib. bride-faſhion ib. another faſhion, 385 Almond-fritters, 386 396 Apples feftooned, ib. furpriſed, ftuffed, 397 in the fhape of fnails, ib. ib. in jelly, or glazed, Anchovies with Parmesan cheeſe 410 ib. with fweet bafil, baked in moulds, ib. Artichokes foldered together, 42S Father Bernard faſhion, 426 ib. fritters, ib. fried, Provost -faſhion, 427 withWeftphalia ham 427 ib. in jelly in tranfparent jelly, 428 Bafhaw-faſhion, ib. St Claud-fashion, ib. with truffle forced- meat, 429 Dutch-fashion, 430 ib. dreffed as falad, Almond-pudding, 449 453 Apple-pudding, ib. Another, B. Broth made in haſte, 2 Broth, one pot boiling in another, 3 Broth , cooling, s Broth to fweeten the blood, 6 7 Burgundy panada, Beef- gravy, ib. Broths, meagre, &c. 13 Begamel-fauce, 42 Burnt-butter ditto, 49

E

X.

So Beef-tongue,fh am , 58 with a reliſhingfauce, ib. ragout, " ib. broiled, ib. fmoked, roafted 53 brazed ib. in veal-cowl, &c. 54 and cheeſe, SS Brazed tongue broiled, 54 Beef- palates, 56,-59 Beef's tail and cabbage, &c. 60 , 61 62 Beef's kidney a la mode, Beef-fuet and marrow, how to uſe, 63 Beef steaks, 64, 65 67 Beef, cold, broiled, ib . family-fashion, ib. Beef-rump Mantua faſhion, 68 fmoked , 69 fcarlet, ib. Gafcony faſhion, different faſhions, 70, 71 Breaft of beef monarch faſhion, 76 -broiled, St Menehoult, 77 Beef- chitterlings, 155 Wild boar or hog, 162 163 Boar, leg of, daubed, Boar's head brazed, 163 333 Beef-pie, Bechamel cakes, 366 368 Bifcufts, fmall, Biſcuit in form of a cane, &c. 375 Bride's cream, 374 Burnt cream, 376 Bacchus cream , 378 Bread, or loaf, mafked, &c. 398 409 Broiled oysters, Brocoli , white or green, 433 Broiled mushrooms, 441 C. Chicken-water, Cullis of what you pleaſe, ib. Craw-fish cullis, II Cullis of garden - beans, 12 Chefnut- cullis, 18 Conti-foup, 19 Cheefe-foup, 21 Chefnut-foup, Chartre. G&

466

INDE

X.

21 Chickens wanton or fantaſtic 190 Chartre-foup, Common fauce, 35 with a well-looking ſauce, ib. ib. Chervil ditto, Civet ditto, Bride-faſhion, 191 36 ib. Italian-fashion, 24 Cruft.foups, Cod-fauce, 191 40 with afpic-fauce, fillets of, & c. 192 42 Carp ditto, Cows udder and verjuice ſauce, 63 with preſerved nectarines, 66 194 Cold roast beef marinaded, fricaffee of, Calves head with forced meat, 195 78 196 with carp-fauce, 79 garniſhed, ib. in cowl, legs and rumps of, 197 ib. with craw-fish, with freſh pork fauce, 80 ib. St Menehoult, Excellency-fashion, 198 i.b Calves ears fried, 199 roafted, ib. 81 in paper, ſhredded, houſewife-faſhion, ib. 200 Dauphin-faſhion, Pontiff-fauce, ib. ib. as large as faufages, admiral fafhion, 82 201 and cheeſe, Italian fauce, ib. 202 Tartary-fashion, ib. Bechamel fauce, ib. marinaded, Calves brains and onions, 203 83 meadow-green, cardinal-fafhion, ib. fried, " ib. fmall fricandeaus of, ib. Gafcoon-faſhion, ib. with truffles, 204 mustard-fauce, 84 ib. St Claud-fashion, different faſhions, ib. Calves tongues, ib. with liafon-fauce, &c. 205 85 ib. Calves caldron plain, country-fashion, 206 fried bright, ib. Gartin-faſhion, ib. with Queen's fauce, Provence-faſhion, ib. 86 fritters of, with fea-green fauce, 207 ib. pie fillets of, in paper-caſes, ib. Calves liver with ſhallots, ib. legs of, different fauces 208 ib. the fpit, 87 Duchefs-faſhion, ib. ib. haflets, green peafe, e with cheeſ , ib. 209 brazed, 88 ib. with white eating, faufages, Turkiſh-fashion, 210 ib. Calves feet different faſhions, with forced-meat, ib. and falad, 89 with lemon -fauce, ib. with pistachio- nuts, 211 Calves fweet-breads Duchefs famatlot of, with roots, ib. 212 ſhion, 90 glazed, -Pontiff fauce, ib. country-wife's faſhion, ib. ib. ib. in jelly, &c. -as hedge- hogs, Calves tails and cabbage, 91 young-wench fashion , 213 different faſhions , 195 92 Colours uſed in cookery, 202 Calves ears ſtuffed wt forced-meat, 96 Carp ftewed with red-wine, Craw-fish puddings , 150 military-fashion, 263 ib. Financier-fashion, Chitterlings Flemish faſhion, 158 264 with Parmefan cheeſe ib. ſtewed, ftewed Chartreufe-fashion, 265 Corbillon, intermixed like a baſket, ib. 181 matlot,' 266 Cake Spaniſh-faſhion, 185 fried, Chickens cavalier-faſhion , ib. 188 failor-faſhion, in form of pearls , 267 189 Jacobin-faſhion, ib. ib. with fweet herbs, with pontiff-fauce, Carp

46

I

X.467 E Carp-roes inſpectorefs-faſhion, 404 Italian fashion. 405 ib. fried, ib. well-looking, 406 Engliſh-faſhion, 406 Carp-roes Dutch faſhion, 428 Coffee-eggs, Cauliflowers plain boiled, 431 with Queen's fauce, ib. with gravy, 432 with Parmef. cheeſe, ib. ib. fritters, Cabbage Marefchal faſhion, 433 ftuffed with forced- meat, 434 ib. St Claud-faſhion, Lion's faſhion, 435 with a ragout of ſweetib. breads, Cardoons with Queen's fauce, 439 with Parmeſan cheeſe, ib. Cucumbers with forced-meat, 440 with Parmef. cheeſe, ib. 449 Calves-feet puddings, 454 Chefnut-pudding, Carrot-pudding, 456 457 Curd-pudding,

ND

Carp ftuffed, 267 268 Dauphin-fashion, Monarch- fashion, 269 ib. Poliſh-faſhion , ib. roafted, hafhed, 270 in the form of fcutcheon, ib. Prince's fashion , 271 Cod with fweet he: bs, 321 Cod's head with oyster-fauce, 322 Cod dried, or ſtock-fish, different ib. fauces, Cod Capuchin-friar faſhion, 323 Cod dried houfe-ſteward faſhion, 324 the gardener's wife's faib. ſhion, ib. with burnt butter, Cherry-tart, 352 357 Chocolate-pies, Cuſtard-tartlets, 359 Cake of Bourneville, 362 Common ſmall cakes, 363 Cakes of Neauffles , ib. Cake Polifh faſhion, 364 Sultan-faſhion, 365 ib. Compeigne- fashion, Cakes of verjuice-grapes, 366 Cheese- cakes, 367 light as the wind, 368 of different kinds, 369 St Dennis faſhion, 370 ib. Custard, a large one, Cream of four ſquares, 372 chaplet or bead fashion, 373 Sultan-fashion , ib. with caramelled fugar, 376 Craw-fish cream , 378 ib. Cream Burgundy-faſhion, nurfe-faſhion, 379 ib. Duchefs-faſhion, 380 with garden- herbs, Chocolate- cream , ib. ib. Coffee-cream, 38x Cream Dauphin-faſhion, Cream-fritters, 389 loaf, 399 400 Craw-fish-cheeſe, 401 Conde-faſhion, butter, ib. ftewed with fweet herbs ib. dreffed in hafte, 402 with forced-meat, ib. ib. roafted, Monarch-fashion, 403 ib. Flemish-fashion, 404 plain boiled,

D. Dauphine foup, Dumpling- paſte,

23 372

E. 26 Epicure's foup, 42 Eel-fauce, 277 fried, Choifi faſhion , 278 ib. ftewed, 279 as chicken-fricaffee, ib. Nivernois-fashion, roafted and ferved with different ib. fauces, 280 fricandeau of, ib. Chartreufe-fafhion, 281 matted or maſked, 282 rack-tied, ib. Naples-fashion, ib. with afpic-fauce, 377 Eggs and water cream , 415 in paper- cafes, ib. like the dawn of day, 416 tripe-faſhion, ib. Father Simon faſhion, ib. Duchefs-fafhion , Flemish fashion , 417 418 Prefident-fashion, CrawG g

468

IN

DE

X.

186 418 Fricaffee farmer-faſhion, different manners 187 419 ib. Fillets puffed, with bechamel fauce, ib. 192 Flourish in form of petit-pates, 193 F. 214 Fowl with its own gravy, ib. 227 with a fharp fauce, Fowls, legs of, in jelly, 215 Fowls legs and rumps, Italian fa- Fowl court-faſhion , ib . fervant -faſhion, fhion, 227 ib. ib. Duke faſhion, Forced-meat balls, 216 with Queen's fauce, Fowls, legs of, Bacchus faſhion , 228 ib. in form of large faufages, ib. Turkeys pinions or 217 Fricaffees of cockſcombs, 229 fried, 262 Fish forced-meat, with flicesof bread and ham , ib. 218 faſhion, Tartar Flounders with lemon-fauce, 308 ib. with truffles, Fritters of any kind, 359 ib. fricandeau, 363 Feuillage, puff- paſte, Fried cream , 219 ftewed, 374 ib. ftuffed with blood, 385 Fritters Dauphin-faſhion, 220 of different forts, fricaffee of fillets, 396 ib. Italian fashion, done in caul, 387 ih. ib. in cake or marbled, maſked, 388 English fashion, King's revenue faſhion, 221 ib. fillets with raiſed bechamel of white eating, ib. fauce, of elder-flowers, &c. 390 ib. 222 farmer-fashion, with a clear jelly, ib. in paper-cafes, legs inthe shape of fans, ib. 226 Flemish wafers, Prince faſhion , 400 Fricaffee of carp-roes, 407 with truffles , 225 408 quadrille faſhion, of oysters, 223 of artichokes, 224 429 hodge-podge of, cucumbers, of 440 like a hedge-hog, 225 ib. of muſhrooms, tureen or matlot of, 441 form pears, the in of 226 Forced eggs with a ragout of cucumbers, 417 Fry of poultry with bechamel fauce, II 224 Family- cullis, ib. G. white, " Fish-broth, 14 Grits panada, Fowl rice-foup, 18 General cullis, 20 Glazed foups, 19 Eamily-foup, Fennel -fauce, 23 36, 44 Game dittó , Flemish ditto, 37 Gafcoon fauce, 36 Fresh pork ditto, 44 Green ditto, 45 Fricaffee of palates, 49 56 General ditto, 168 Fillet of firloin of beef in coul, 73 Grenado, 109 Fillet of beef with fweet herbs, ib. Grenado daubed, Commiffary faſhion, 74 Gratin cream, 381 with anchovies, ib. Gooſeberry cream, 383 admiral-fashion, 75 Green-peafe with bacon, &c. 421 with jelly, ib. ftewed with cream , ib. with Nivernois fauce, in their own juice, 422 ib. ftewed French fafh. ib. 424 gend'arme faſhion, 76 Green kidney-beans fried, Fried forced-meat, ib. -ftewed, 91 cap -wi ers, Flemish loaf, ib. th 115 -with onions, Fricassee of chickens, 186 425 Green

Eggs in caul, glazed, with Parmesan cheeſe, with Robert-fauce,

9 6 4

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X. L.

469

Green kidney-beans dreſſed as falad, 12 425, Lentil cullis , 21 457 Lamb's- head foup, &c. Gooſeberry pudding, 28 Lazagne foup, 33 Lively-coloured fauce, H. 37 1 Lamb fauce, Herb foup, 41 10 Liver ditto, Ham cullis, 164 111 Lamb's head, Ham Venetian faſhion , a la Mordienne, 165 Hog's head wild-boar faſhion, 143 different fafhions, ib. in form ofa foot-ball 144 166 Pontifffauce, 145 Hogs tails different faſhions, ib. Conde faſhion, 146 feet brazed , diff ib. erent ways, ib. ears different faſhions, ib. Lamb, fhoulder of, Dauphin fablood, ufe of, 167 147 ſhion, puddings, ib. Lamb, fhoulder of, neighbour faSt Germains, 167 fhion, ib. fine, 168 quarter of, in cowl, 148 Hogs white puddings, ib. Monarch faſhion, Ham, how to make French fashion, 169 with fweet herbs, 159 ib. with Queen-fauce, 332 pie, ib. 160 Lambs rumps fried, Mayenne faſhion, ib. Lamb, quarter of, as a thick fauin jelly, ib. ib. fage, roafted, 161 Lamb, neck of, 170 brazed, 242 toafts, 161, 391 Leveret, cutlets of, kid faſhion, 243 178 Hodge-podge, 244 in caul, 240 Hare, tureen of, daubed, ib. fillets of, with anchovies, ib. with its own blood, 245 done in a hurry, 241 collared, 375 ib. Light cream, cake, 383 242 Lemon cream, ftewed, 45% 338 pudding, pie, 399 Polish fashion, 243 Loaf Spaniſh faſhion, ib. haricot of, M fillets of, with ſtewed greens, 244 Melon foup, 13 Hallibut, flounders, and plaife, 307 Meagre broths for foups, 14 Herrings, fresh, with caper-fauce, 319 gravy, ib. with fennel-fauce, 15 cullis, 16 -with muſtard-fauce, 320 peafe- cullis, 25 -matlot of, ib. Macaroni foup, 26 -St Menehoult faſhion, ib. Military ditto, 28, 29, 30 Herrings, dried and pickled, 321 Meagre foups, 38 398 Mifer's fauce, Ham -loaf, 39 I. Military ditto, 43 3 Mackerel ditto, Jelly-broth, ib. 4 Muſtard ditto, of all fragments, 44 22 Minced fauce, Julienne foup, 106 23 Meat pudding, Italian paſte ſoup, 107, 32 Marble-coloured, & c. Italian fauce, 33 Mutton, neck of, larded with ham, White ditto , 123 &c. 34 Jelly-broth fauce, ib. fricandeau, K. ib. with ham , 171 Kid, 124 Kidney-beans Flemiſh faſhion, 423 Mutton cutlets with fennel, Mutton

470

INDE

Mutton, cutlets ftewed flowly on hot aſhes, 124 like a hedge hog, ib. lover's faſhion, 125 ib. maſked, ib. Friar faſhion, 126 fried, Dauphin faſhion, ib. 127 Jeg of, fried, ib. collops, ftewed with cucumib. bers, bechamel fauce with onions, 128 fillets marinaded , ib. canelon fashion, ib. fillets coquette faſhion , 129 glazed with cucumib. bers, fricandeau of, ib. cutlets with onions, ib. breast of, different faſhions, 130 fhoulder of, water, ib. ib. Parma faſhion, baked in the oven, 131 ib. broiled, collared, or faufages ib. good houſewife faſhion 132 ib. with blood, fadleor loin of, broiled , 133 ib. faddle of, matted, 134 Jeg of, with garlic, with wine-fauce, ib. with forced meat, ib. fricandeaus of, ib. ib. leg of, a la mode, Houlan faſhion, 135 Gafcoon faſhion, ib. Italian fashion, ib. Spaniſh faſhion, ib. Jike venison, 136 Modena faſhion, ib. military faſhion, ib. with greensorroots, 137 Bacha faſhion, ib. ib. with falad, 180 Marbree, marble- coloured, 182 Matlot royal faſhion, ib. of what you pleaſe, Pruffian fashion, 183 184 for a general, ib. with Dutch onions, Meat-cake of what forts you pleaſe, ib.

X.

Mignons, a favourite diſh, &c. 199 261 Meagre glazes and brazes, forced meat without fiſh, 262 Mackerels Italian faſhion, 312 court Bouillon faſhion 313 fricandeaus of, ib. clerk of the kitchen faſhion, 314 ib. Flemish fashion, ib. fried, fillets with orange-fauce, 315 ib. quail fashion, in paper-cafes, 316 with craw-fifh fauce, ib. ib. Engliſh faſhion, Mutton-pie mixed, 334 Muſcado or ſweet-grape tart, 353 Marrow tart, 354 Marrow tumblers, 370 Mushrooms or morel loaf, 398 Melted cheeſe in paper-cafes, 400 Mushrooms fried in paſte, &c. 442 ftuffed with forced meat, 443 ib. as falad, ib. Italian fashion, 444 ragout of, ib. powder of, Morels Princes- faſhion, 445 with bacon , ib. fricaffee of, 446 ib. Provence-fashion, Italian-faſhion, 447

N. Nonpareil fauce, Nivernois ditto, Nun's ditto, Nun's cream, Naffau pudding

32 ib. 44 374 449

Onion cullis meager, 15 47 Orange-fauce, 55 Ox's brains, 371 Olive fritters, 409 Oysters maſhed, ib. Spaniſh- faſhion, ib. broiled, 411 Omelet, with Parmeſan cheeſe, ib. 412 military faſhion, ib. fritters, with veal kidney, ib. with onions, 413 Omelet,

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471

Omelet with minced livers, ib. Partridges King's village faſhion, 233 ib. with blood , 234 afpic fauce, ib. Mandevi faſhion, with anchovies or red ber414 dobed Sicily faſhion, ib. rings, 235 with cream and flour of rice, Plovers Perigord faſhion, ib. Pike fried , 271 ib. roafted Italian faſhion, 274 cream , fricaffee of, ib. 415 Dauphin-fashion, Onions ftewed with carp- roes, 437 in the form of a dolphin , 273 ib. bride- faſhion, with a ragout of veal fweetroafted with meat or meager ib. breads, ib. Italian fashion , fauce, 438 ib. 274 country-wife faſhion, Spanish-fashion, ib. 451 stewed, Orange-pudding, another fashion, Provence 275 faſhion, 452 ib. fmall fricaudeaus of, P. ib. dreffed with champaign, 6 Duchefs faſhion, Panada of breaſts of fowls, 276 ib. 12 Peaſe cullis, German fathion , Parma foup, 277 24 Spanish fashion, 26 Perches, matlot of, with a waterPigeon ditto, 35,48 fauce, 283 Parfley fauce, 284 Poor man's ditto, 38 Tartary faſhion, Polish ditto, with butter-fauce, ib. 40 46 Pontiff ditto, with different ragouts and fauces ib. Parfon's ditto, 47 285 137 English faſhion, 1 Pigs, ib. 138 fried , Pig, fuckling, roaſted, collared, 328 139 Puff-paſte, white Monks-faſhion, 329 140 Paſte made with beef-fuet, ib. ib. fritter or batter, in jelly, ib. 141 large olives of, royal, Bechamel-fauce, 142 Queen's, 330 olives of, ib. ib. a particular one, ib. 143 in a mould, fugar, ib. 145 rice, Pork pickled , for corkanes or ornaments, 33 chine of, Poivrade-fauce, ib. ib. 151 almond, faufages, ib. Duchefs -faſhion, 155 large ditto, 162 fillets of, fresh, Flemish-fashion, 332 cutlets of, ib. Pig-pie, 333 149 Pics of fowls, turkeys , or wildPuddings of whitings livers, ib. of fat livers, fowl , 335 ib. 150 Pie, Amiens-fafhion, of pheasant, of rabbits, ib. Partridge-pie, 336 ib. Partridge, after the name of friars, Partridge-pie Choifi-faſhion , 180 . Perigord-fashion, 337 ib. Poulettes a la bricoliere, 194 Pic of plovers, &c. ib. Partridges with confomme fauce, 230 Pheaſant-pie, 338 231 Pigeon- pie, Perigord-faſhion, broiled with fweet herbs, Pic of fillets of mutton and onions, ib. 340 roafted with different ra- Pie of fillets of leverets , ib. gouts, 232 Petty-pates with forced meat, 348 Madeline-faſhion, ib. Petty-pates in form of faufages , ib. ib. Queen's fashion , 349 Dauphin-fashion, Petty-pates

472

INDE

X.

255 350 Ragout of turnips, ib. of endives, 351 ib. offorrel, 354 256 of fpinage, 357 ib. 360 of Spanish cardoons, of green walnuts, 257 366 ib. of cabbages, 385 ofyoung French beans, 258 391 259 393 Riffoles Choifi-faſhion, ofbeef, 260 418 ib. gam of e, 454 of different forced-meats, ib. 261 Prefident-fashion, ΤΟ ib. Provence-fashion, Queen's cullis, Queen's cullis meager, 352 16 Rafpberry-tart, 22 Rice-cakes, 366 Quail-foup, 376 48 Rich or velveted cream , Queen's-fauce, Quails Flemish-faſhion, 236 Rice-cream ſtewed with broth, 359 with laurel, ib. Ratafia-cream , 382 394 Quails, thruſhes, plovers, &c. in Raiſed or blown toaſts, ib. 237 Rock toaſts, ragout, Queen's cream , 423 377 Ragout of kidney-beans, of cauliflowers, 431 *R. Red cabbage and faufages, 435 2 Ratafia pudding, 454 Rigby foup, Rice foup, 460 17 Rice pudding, 37 Royal fauce, S. 39, 45 Relishing ditto, Robert ditto, S 41 Spring broth, Rib ofbeef done in the oven, 17 77 Soup of all forts of herbs, 22 English fashion, 78 Soups of different porridge, 28 Dutch faſhion, ib. Soup, Crefly, Ragout of breaſt of veal ſtuffed 97 Sauces, 31 Rabbit puddings, 149 Sea green fauce, 33 245 Saxon fauce, 34 Ragout of fat livers, ib. of various colours, 246 Sauce, thick, of cockfcombs , ib. Sorrel-fauce, 35 of ham, 247 Sauce in a hurry, 37 ib. Sweet fauce of calves fweebreads, 38 38 of truffles and oyfters,. ib. Sauce made of game, of craw-fish, 39 243 Sharp fauce- afpick, 41 of carp-roes, ib. Spanish ditto, of muſcles, 43 249 Sharp fauce, 46 of oyſters different faſhions, Sky-blue ditto, ib. Sauce for ducks, 47 of mushrooms, 48 250 Shallot-fauce, of morels, baked, 251 Sirloin of beef 72 ib. of fmall eggs and cocks kid- Ditto ragout, ib. ib. Ditto Dauphin-faſhion, neys, 252 Sham faufages with celery, 113 of cucumbers, 114 ib. Spring-cake, ofgreen, peafe, oftruffles, Sheeps different faſhions, rumps 116 253 117 of afparagus as green peafe, Sheeps tongues, ib. Provence-fashion, ib. ib! ofſmall onions, as fricandeau, 254 of roots, ib. royal-fashion, 118 Sheeps

Petty-pates Pontiff-faſhion, ofvarious kinds, Pistachio-nut tart, Pie of truffles iced, Puff- cake, Pistachio-nut cake, Peach or apricot fritters, Potato fritters, Pounded toaſts, Puffed eggs, Potato pudding,

INDE Sheeps tongues with onions in cowl, 118 ib. in paper cafes with Parmefan cheeſe 119 ib. maſked, Dauphin-faſhion, ib. plain family-faſhion , 120 ib. pie, fried in pafte, 121 Sheeps trotters different faſhions, ib. Belle-vue fauce, ib. fried in paſte, 122 fried or broiled, ib. ib. afpic, Saufages, fmoked, 151 different fashions, 152 ib. with truffles failors faſhion , 153 ib. St Claud faſhion , broiled or baked, ib. with fweet herbs, 154 ib. ragout, &c. of fish, 157 boar's meat, 159 of wild Stew- pan of rice, 177 Salmon, a rich expenſive diſh, 179 Stewed chickens or matlot, 187 229 Sham pinions of fowls, 237 Snipes Duchefs-faſhion , Provence fashion, 238 Spinage dreffed with cream , 256 Salmon, haflets of, 293 good houfe-wife fashion , ib. with fweet herbs, 294 with its own fauce, ib. fricandeau of, 295 with crawv-- fish, &c. ib. ib. fried, head or joul with different fauces, 296 ib. Choify-faſhion, fmoked, cafes of, 297 ib. dried Dutch faſhion Sturgeon roaſted witn meat, &c. 298 Mayence fashion, ib. in its own fauce, 1 299 broiled, ib. St Menehoult faſhion, 300 ib. fricandeaus fmall of, brazed on ashes, 301 Engliſh faſhion, 302 ib. Provence fashion, ib. dreffed in hafte,

X.

473

308 Soals with Pontiff-fauce, with fweet herbs, 309 baked in the oven , ib. olives of, 310 ib. excellent, with Pontiff-fauce, 311 fricandeaus of, ib. fillets of, bechamel-fauce, ib. fillets of, verjuice-fauce, 1 312 ib. fried, Skate with burnt-butter fauce, 317 ib. Jacobine fashion, ib. marinaded, broiled, 318 matlot of, and Parmesan cheeſe, ib. 319 with white-wine fauce, Smelts, matlot of, with ſweet herbs, 327 ib. maſked, ib. St Menchoult faſhion , with fennel fauce, 328 338 Salmon-pie, ib. Soal- pie, ib. Sturgeon- pie, 357 Spinage-pie, 361 Savoy-cake, Sham Turk's cap, 362 389 Strawberry-fritters, ib. Spanish fritters, oyst Stewed 407 ers, 408 Scolloped oysters, 417 Sham eggs with bafil, 418 Small eggs for garnish, 420 Stewed eggs, Snow-balls of eggs, ib. Spinage, the good houfe-wife faſhion , 436 with cream, ib. ib . St Claud-faſhion, in fnuff-boxes, 437 Stewed muſhrooms, 441 455 Sweet-meat pudding,

T. 16 Turnip cullis meager, 27 foup, 49 Truffles-fauce, 114, 367 Timbal, a mould , filled with black- pudding 157 preparation, Tureen of different meats, 25 172 Flemish fashion, ib . English fashion, ib. of what you pleaſe, Tureen Hh

474

INDE

Tureen of woodcocks, 173 ib. of partridges, of sheeps rumps, &c. 174 ib. of poultries, monarch-fashion, 175 ib. of rabbits, 176 of fiſh, ib. offalmon, of falmon and craw-fiſh, 177 or fancy-diſh , 179 229 of fowl-pinions, Tenches fricaffeed as chickens, 285 286 ragout of, good houfe-wife faſhion, ib. with Pontiff-fauce, 287 ib. Monarch- fafhion, Italian fashion, 288 ib . different fashions, Trouts Chartreufe faſhion, 289 290 Perigord-fashion, with fweet herbs, ib. 291 German faſhion, Glazed as a fricandeas, ib. of a fine blue-colour, 292 done in the oven , ib. Turbot St Menehoult faſhion, 303 with Parmesan cheese, 304 with Pontiff fauce, ib. with fweet herbs, 305 fillets of,different faſhions, ib. fricandeau of, 306 with lemon fauce ib. Dutch fashion, 307 Tourte of rabbits, 341 of rabbits with a light pafte, ib. ofpigeons, 343 ib. of young partridges ib. of woodcocks of white meats, 344 of pinions of poultries, ib. Condi-fashion, 345 ib. of faufages, &c. of macaroni, 346 of eggs, ib. of cod, 347 ib. of foals, ib. of oysters or muſcles, Tart of ſtrawberries, & c. 352 or pudding, Franchipane faſhion 353 of pears , 355 ib. ofplums, 356 of gooseberries, ib. Chapon-faſhion,

X.

358 Tartlets of almond-pafie, ib. Chantilly-fashion , Turk's cap with ice- cream , 361 Turban-cakes, 362 Tinfel- cake, 369 Toafts German faſhion , 392 ib. of fat livers, Minim-friars faſhion, 393 ib . Brittany faſhion, infanta faſhion , 394 Italian fashion , 395 ib . of fish-livers, of garden-ftuffs of all kinds, 439 Turnips as cardoons, 447 Truffles marefchal- faſhion, ib. plain boiled, ftuffed with forced-meat, 448 ib. ragout of, 457, 458 Tanfy- pudding, boiled, 459 ib. Tanfy and pippin pudding,

U. 20 Vermicelly-foup, Verjuice- fauce, 38 Veal kidneys different faſhions, 87 89 fweetbreads, .92 Veal griftles and green peaſe, 93 Spring fauce, ib. fried, fricaffee, 94 wt anyfort ofgreens, ib. ib. Veal fricandeaus , 95 breaſt of, fried, Italian fashion, ib. 96 maſked, 97 marinaded, in its own fauce, ib. Pontiff-fauce, 98 ib. cutlets bride-fashion, 99 ragout, ib. in paper, ib. marinaded, compofed or fhammed, ib. 100 glazed, ib . and fweet herbs, and green peafe, ΙΟΣ in crust , ib. in different manhers, ib. ib. Veal, neck of, ſtewed, and ſharp fauce, 102 Monarch-faſhion, ib. masked , 103 Veal,

1 IN

D

Veal, leg or knuckle of, and fpinage, 103 ib. leg of, with white-fance, 1C4 leg of, doubed, 1 cut venifon-faſhion, ib. fhoulder of, ib. fmall fricandeaus, 105 ib. collops ib. collops brazed, 106 olives, 110 Veal-ſtakes Venetian faſhion , III flices , ditto, ib. knuckle, Pontiff-fauce, St Claud-fashion, 112 ib. glazed, fillet dobed , ib. cake in cowl, 115 116 • trifles of, 151 faufages, 156 chitterlings or faufages, chitterlings Rouen faſhion. ib. 157 white-chitterlings, &c. pie, 334 340 griſtle pic, cake, 344

X.

Vermicelly pudding, Verjuice-grape tart, Vermicelly cream , Veal-kidney toasts,

475

´455 353 382 392

W. 48 Wheat-fauce, Woodcock ditto, 49 and fnipes, different fafhions, 237 or fnipes ragout, with truffles, &c. 238 haſhie ib. Wood-pigeons German-faſhion , 239 with fennel- fauce, ib. White collops, 258 325 Whitings fervant-faſhion, ib. with cod-fauce, fried , 326 forced-meat, made of, ib. 377 White-eating cream, 461 White-eating, Y.

Yellow-eating,

FINI

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462

ERRAT

A.

Page 75. for Filet de Boeuf Galaffe, read Filet de Boeuf Gelée. P. 114. 1. l. 3. for Bleaumange, read Blanc-mangé. P. 151. laft 1. for your, read you. P. 342. 1. 8. for pepper, read paper.