The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet Volume III: 18 Patterns Inspired by Vintage Marine Illustrations 9780984998241, 0984998241

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The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet Volume III Hunter Hammersen

The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet Volume III 18 PATTERNS INSPIRED BY VINTAGE MARINE ILLUSTRATIONS

Hunter Hammersen

Pantsville Press

Text © 2014, Hunter Hammersen Photos © 2014, Zoë Lonergan Charts © 2014, Hunter Hammersen Drawing of Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet, facing page 1, © 2014 Anna Kuo All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. All business names, product names, and trademarks used within are the property of their respective owners. Photography by Zoë Lonergan Book design and cover design by Zoë Lonergan Charts created with StitchMastery Knitting Chart Editor ISBN: 978-0-9849982-4-1 First Printing, 2014 Printed in China with Asia Pacific Offset Pantsville Press Cleveland, Ohio www.pantsvillepress.com

Contents Introduction.. ......................................................................... 1 Acknowledgements................................................................... 2 History............................................................................... 3 Prints................................................................................ 6 Tips. ................................................................................ 7 Stitch Key. .......................................................................... 10 Conferva villosa..................................................................... 14 Sock.. ............................................................................ 16 Hat............................................................................... 22 Fucus asparagoides. ................................................................ 26 Sock.. ............................................................................ 28 Shawl. ........................................................................... 34 Planorbis corneus................................................................... 38 Sock.. ............................................................................ 40 Shawl. ........................................................................... 44 Limneus stagnalis. .................................................................. 48 Sock.. ............................................................................ 50 Cowl............................................................................. 54 Serpula contortuplicata............................................................. 58 Sock.. ............................................................................ 60 Mitt.............................................................................. 64 Pelagia noctiluca.................................................................... 70 Sock.. ............................................................................ 72 Hat............................................................................... 76 Padina pavonia..................................................................... 80 Sock.. ............................................................................ 82 Mitt.............................................................................. 86 Bunodes crassicornis................................................................ 90 Sock.. ............................................................................ 92 Hat............................................................................... 96 Zostera marina. ................................................................... 100 Sock.. ........................................................................... 102 Mitt............................................................................. 106 Sources............................................................................. 110

Introduction

We did it. I've known from the moment the idea for these books occurred to me that there needed to be three of them. Thanks to you and your support for this unlikely endeavor of mine, now there are. I really am tremendously in your debt. Can you imagine if I'd gone to a publisher and said “so, I want to write a book of knitting patterns inspired by this nifty (if somewhat peculiar) moment in the history of science. There will be pictures of plants and bugs and sea life involved. Oh and by the way, the names of the patterns will all be in Latin and will pose some alarming pronunciation difficulties. And did I mention that there actually need to be three books, not one?” I can't imagine that conversation would have ended well. But that's just what I wanted to do, and, with your help, it's just what I have done.

So now, my own knitter's curiosity cabinet (one full of beautiful stitches instead of natural wonders) is complete – or at least as complete as any collection can be. I worked with prints of plants and butterflies in the first two volumes (prints like these were one of the ways people shared the contents of their cabinets in an age before photography), and here I've turned my attention to prints of marine life. I confess I was a little worried I wouldn't be able to find the right set of prints (pictures of dead fish really weren't what I was going for), but I am delighted by the colors and textures and shapes that I've assembled here. As in the first two volumes, each print has inspired two patterns, one for a sock, and one for something else. And as always, I hope you'll find something here worth adding to your own collection.

Introduction

1

Acknowledgements

I don't generally believe in luck, but after this book, I may have to change my mind. As I worked on it, I had the happy experience of finding just the right group of people to save the day, no matter what odd circumstance I found myself in. It must be either luck, or a reward for clean living, and I don't think it's the latter. I am forever grateful to everyone who has been so generous with their time and talents as this project has come together. I always say that I'm a better designer than knitter and that if I had to knit all my samples myself, each book would take five years. Laura Lazarites has saved me from that fate. She knit just about every stitch you see here and did a lovely job of it, too. She took my dodgy first drafts and questionable notes and handed me back stunning knitting and corrected patterns. I can't thank her enough. Barb Stephenson provided some marvelously reassuring last minute test knitting (thus saving me many sleepless nights). I've had similar good luck in finding delightful editors. Cathy Scott (creator of the amazing StitchMastery charting program) is the best tech editor I could hope for. She's made my patterns clearer, more concise, and more correct. If your knitting goes smoothly, she's the one to thank. Heather Ordover (mastermind behind the marvelous CraftLit podcast and all-around super genius) has done similar work with my prose. She's graciously (oh so very graciously) pointed out where I've gone astray and gently gotten me back on track. And, in perhaps the oddest bit of serendipity yet, I had the great good fortune of getting help from the charming Marnie Bethel, Meredith Dill, Kate Atherley, and Alexis Hammersen when I found myself in need of a translation of one of the weirdest bits of French I've ever encountered. They all displayed great fortitude in the face of pulsating tentacles and calcareous secretions.

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I owe a massive debt to Stacy Siddle, Lauren Falk, and Laura Lazarites, who got up way too early to spend the morning clambering on light posts, perching on tree stumps, and lurking in doorways, all in the name of getting good pictures. Elle Gemma made sure everyone was radiant while we went off on our various adventures. Zoë Lonergan was the one taking all those fabulous pictures, and she did a brilliant job (while somehow also keeping me calm in the face of a bit of runaway knitwear). And throughout the process, I always knew I could count on the knowledgeable guidance and support of the members of Cat Bordhi's Visionary Authors program. Writing knitting books (much less publishing them yourself) is a rather unusual thing to do with your days, and having a group of like-minded folks to call upon when you have questions makes it much easier. Special thanks to Deb Robson for providing a sympathetic ear in moments of frustration and to Jennifer Leigh for knowing just the right place to take the mystery French. As always, many thanks to my family for their ongoing support of my attempts at woolly world domination. I'm pretty sure I owe them all knitting. And finally, tremendous thanks to my husband, Brian. Finding him was the best bit of luck of all.

History

When I wrote the history section for the first of these books, I comforted myself with the idea that no one would actually read it. That made it much easier to write. Then I heard from people saying that not only had they read it, but they liked it. That was lovely, but it did make it rather harder to write the history section for the second book. I couldn't tell myself no one would read it, and I had to try and say much the same stuff I'd said in the first one without actually repeating myself too badly. I procrastinated and complained in a most unseemly fashion. I'll leave it to your imagination just how much time I've spent dithering over writing the history section yet a third time. How on earth can I cover the same ground three times without being horribly dull? I finally decided to do something else. I still wanted to take a moment to explain what curiosity cabinets were and how they evolved, just on the off chance that this is the first volume of the series you've picked up. But after that, I figured I was free to go off on a bit of a tangent. So, without further ado, a (shockingly abbreviated) history of curiosity cabinets.

wW

Curiosity cabinets started in Europe in the late 1400s and early 1500s. This was a period when explorers were off having all sorts of adventures and bringing back never-before-seen wonders from around the world. The rich and powerful men who funded (and profited from) these explorations began to construct hugely elaborate displays to show off these new treasures. These collections were eclectic in the extreme and organized only by the whims of their owners. Natural objects like fossils, shells, and rocks sat side-byside with man-made objects like paintings, statues, and ornaments. Beautiful geodes shared shelf space with skulls and gruesome preserved animals. Mundane items were mixed in with things purporting to be unicorn horns and dragon scales. The collections were meant to be both personal amusements and demonstrations of the power and importance of the people who assembled them.

Gradually, over the course of the 1600s and 1700s, the contents and functions of cabinets began to change. Instead of amassing random objects and displaying them in a jumble, collectors began to focus their interest on specific areas (flowering plants or English beetles or corals or whatever else caught their fancy) and to arrange their collections in a logical, orderly fashion. This change had everything to do with the development of what we think of as modern science. Cabinets, and the objects they held, were becoming sites of scientific inquiry, full of instructive specimens rather than mysterious treasures. This reflected a shift in ideas about how people should come to know about the natural world (through study of the world itself, rather than through reading what ancient experts had to say about the subject). At the same time, ideas about who should assemble cabinets were changing. No longer were they the sole preserve of powerful people. They became hugely popular pastimes with people of all walks of life. Men and women, upper and middle class, formally educated or merely curious, all could enjoy the thrill of collecting and all could hope to contribute to the growing understanding of the world in which they lived. Cabinets had become a democratic pastime and a scientific tool rather than a display of power. The contents of many of the more extensive cabinets eventually served as the foundation for some of the world's most famous museums.

wW

That was shamefully quick, but it gives you the general idea. If you find your interest has been piqued, I encourage you to read up on the subject. But now, because I can't just leave you with a summary of what I've said in the last two books, allow me to indulge my inner history dork (you're reading the history section in a knitting book; I have a suspicion if you're here, you have an inner history dork, too) and talk about sources for a moment.

History

3

This painting, Kunst und Raritätenkammern, shows selections from an eclectic cabinet featuring a jumble of paintings, sculptures, shells, preserved sea creatures, and ornaments. Painted by Frans Francken in 1636.

I worried, when I started this project, that using prints from natural history books was cheating. There are catalogs of some of the more elaborate and extensive curiosity cabinets out there (though they tend to be hard to come by, and they don't offer nearly the same range of images from which to choose as do the natural history books), and I thought I should probably be using them. I felt guilty that I wasn't. Blame grad school, where you will be eaten alive if you don't choose your source materials with the utmost care. But, as I've worked with the books over the last three years, I came to realize my concern was unfounded. These natural history books embody the spirit of investigation and categorization that stands at the heart of curiosity cabinets. More than that, they demonstrate just how prevalent both these ideas and cabinets themselves were in society as a whole. I got a little thrill every time I turned to these

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books and saw my beloved cabinets pop up, and I wanted to share a bit of that with you. I think one of the most marvelous examples is the full title of one of the sources I used for this very book. When I mentioned it in the prints section, I used its short title, but the full thing is the absolutely splendid A Manual of the Land and Fresh-Water Shells of the British Islands, Arranged According to the More Modern Systems of Classification; and Described from Perfect Specimens in the Author's Cabinet; with Coloured Plates of Every Species. In the introduction, Mr. Turton assures us that “the whole of my collections in British Conchology are now in your possession; and in the ensuing catalog, nothing has been introduced of which perfect specimens cannot be found in that collection.” I couldn't have made that up if I tried. It's too perfect to be anything but true.

Mr. Turton and his Manual aren't the only place the collecting urge and spirit of scientific inquiry crop up. The authors of English Botany or Coloured Figures of British Plants (from which two of the prints in this book and one from the first book came) take great care to credit the contributions of the countless people who sent them the plants they depict. Of the Conserva villosa used here they say, “specimens … have been sent us from the Yarmouth beach by Mr. D. Turner, along with a drawing most accurately taken by the hand of Mrs. Turner.” The book even quotes Mr. Turner's description of the plant. I love the picture this paints of Mr. and Mrs. Turner, out for a bit of specimen collecting on the beach and Mrs. Turner carefully working up a drawing of their finds while her husband writes a description of them. It is a beautiful example of popular contributions to a scholarly work. John Wood, the author of The Common Objects of the Sea Shore (in which three of the prints used in this volume can be found), takes great pride in both the widespread interest in collecting and in the scientific spirit with which this collecting was undertaken. He rejoices that “formerly, the external characters of shells were the only object of the collector; and … he … might have, and very often did have, a large collection of valuable shells, without the least idea of the form, food, habits, or development of the creature that secreted them. Now, however, those who examine a shell are not satisfied unless they know something of the creature that inhabited it … and so this branch of Natural History has leaped at once out of the mere childish toy of conchology into the maturer science of malacology.” And his book, though intended for the most general of audiences, is full of suggestions for how to select and preserve specimens for his readers' cabinets. These are but a few of the examples I found as I worked with the source texts. I fear that to provide you with any more would tax your patience. But I hope that they have given you a sense of the widespread sense of exploration, engagement, and wonder that was so central to curiosity cabinets (and that, not surprisingly, seems to characterize so many of the current generation of knitters).

This image from Wondertooneel der Nature shows a small portion of the massive collection amassed by Dutch merchant Levinus Vincent. He documented his collection in a two-volume catalog published in 1706 and 1715.

History

5

Prints

There is a long tradition of making exquisitely detailed catalogs of the items in curiosity cabinets. Preparing these catalogs was a costly and complicated undertaking. Commissioning illustrations and overseeing printing involved substantial outlays of both time and money. But it became increasingly common and served several purposes. As it was almost never possible to complete a collection (collectors are rarely sated), an illustration of an item held by a fellow collector could serve as a placeholder and fill in the gaps in another collection. Illustrations also captured aspects of items that were difficult to preserve. Plant and animal specimens degraded over time while pictures remained vibrant. Perhaps most importantly, as interest in the subject grew, published catalogs of cabinets made their contents accessible to people who could never hope to visit them in person. I would have loved to work with images from some of these early catalogs. They were small works of art. They were also costly and usually published in very small numbers. The intervening years have made them both rarer and more expensive. The few originals I could find for sale were well out of my price range. Just as important, not all of them lent themselves to being adapted as knitting patterns. I could have worked from reproductions. Several of the catalogs have been reproduced in modern editions, and many of the others are available in digital versions. But I wanted to work from the originals, from something I could hold in my hands. The joy of collecting is a fundamental part of the appeal of curiosity cabinets, and I admit that a bit of this collector's impulse influenced my desire to actually own the images I used in the book. So I turned to a slightly more available resource, prints from works of natural history. These were very much inspired by the same spirit of exploration and classification that lay behind

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curiosity cabinets but tended to be printed in larger numbers. They also included even more specimens. This meant that I had a wider array of images to choose from and that I could afford to indulge my desire to own the pieces I worked with. I hope you will forgive me this small lapse.

Conferva villosa and Fucus asparagoides are from Volume Eight of English Botany or Coloured Figures of British Plants with their Essential Characters, Synonyms, and Places of Growth. This massive, thirty-six-volume set was published between 1790 and 1813. The text was written by James Edward Smith, and the illustrations were created by James Sowerby. Planorbis corneus and Limneus stagnalis are from A Manual of the Land and Fresh-Water Shells of the British Islands. This book, originally published by the naturalist William Turton in 1831, offered a systematic overview of “the whole of [Turton's] collection in British Conchology.” It proved so popular that in 1840 it was revised and expanded in a new edition with the assistance of John Edward Gray.

Pelagia noctiluca and Serpula contortuplicata are from the immense Dictionnaire Universel D'Histoire Naturelle, edited by Charles Dessalines d'Orbigny. This staggering work included both a mammoth dictionary of the wonders of the natural world and a three-volume atlas of meticulous engravings of some of the more arresting specimens from the dictionary.

Padina pavonia, Bunodes crassicornis, and Zostera marina are from John George Wood's 1860 book, The Common Objects of the Sea Shore; Including Hints for an Aquarium. Wood's work (including other titles such as Common Objects of the Microscope and Common Objects of the Country) was written in a very engaging fashion and became hugely popular.

Tips

This book doesn’t teach you how to knit. I assume you already know the basics (how to knit and purl, how to increase and decrease, and how to work flat and in the round). If you’ve got those things down, you can make any of these projects. That said, there are a few little things that might be useful to know ahead of time. Most of these are fairly standard knitting pattern conventions, so if you want to skip ahead to the patterns, please feel free. But if you happen find yourself with a question, you might want to come back here and see if some of this information helps. Topics are organized in alphabetical order to help you quickly find exactly what you’re looking for.

Abbreviations: See the stitch key for a complete list of all the abbreviations used in the text of the patterns.

Cast on: Use any stretchy cast on you like. All of the projects shown in the pictures were made with the long-tailed cast on or a provisional cast on. If you have a personal favorite, feel free to use it instead.

If you’re working back and forth, the procedure is a bit different. When you’re working a right-side row, read that row of the chart from right to left and make the stitch indicated in the right-side instructions in the stitch key. When you’re working a wrong-side row, read that row of the chart from left to right and make the stitch indicated in the wrong-side instructions in the stitch key.

Chart notes: Some of the charts include notes to draw your attention to particular features or help you with potential trouble spots. Please be sure to read these notes carefully before you begin.

Gauge: Adjusting your gauge is one of the easiest ways to fine tune the size of your finished object. This can be a bit risky if you’re making something closely fitted like a sweater (it works, you just need to do a fair bit of planning and some math). But it’s a perfectly reasonable approach for most of the projects in this book. Though if you try it, it is helpful to keep a few things in mind.

easy to work with, but they do require a bit of attention if you’ve not used them before. The important thing to remember is that charts show you a stylized picture of what the right side of your knitting will look like.

First, always remember that the finished size of a particular bit of knitting at any given spot is is going to be (more or less) the total number of stitches at that spot divided by the gauge. So if you’ve cast on 72 stitches for a sock, and you’re getting a gauge of 9 stitches per inch, you divide 72 stitches by 9 stitches per inch to get size of 8 inches. For this to work, it’s important that you’re measuring your gauge over the stitch pattern you’re using and over a blocked swatch (if you’re going to block the finished object). This is a very handy bit of math and it gives you a tremendous amount of flexibility in substituting yarns or in adjusting the size of a finished object.

If you’re working in the round, the right side of your fabric is always facing you, so the chart always shows you exactly what to do. Just read each row of the chart from right to left and make the stitch indicated in the right-side instructions in the stitch key.

Second, adjusting the gauge of your socks requires a bit more thought than adjusting the gauge of your shawl or your cowl. Socks have to deal with some rather demanding conditions. The single best thing you can do to ensure the longevity of your socks

Cast off: Use any stretchy cast off you like. Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, as described in the Fall 2009 issue of Knitty, is a good choice for most projects. Charts: All of these patterns use at least one chart. Charts are

Tips

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is knit tightly enough that you get a firm fabric in your chosen yarn. That means if you’ve picked a thin sock yarn, you may need to knit at 9 or 9.5 stitches per inch. By the same token, if you’ve picked a thick sock yarn, you may be able to knit at 7.5 or 7 stitches per inch. If you’ve selected a yarn that works best at a gauge different from that listed in the pattern, you should do a bit of math to figure out which of the sizes will work best for you. The easiest way to understand this is with an example. Say you’ve decided to make the Smerinthus ocellatus socks, and that your foot is about 8.5 inches around. This sock comes in four sizes (56, 64, 72, and 80 stitches), and it calls for a gauge of 8 stitches per inch. If you’re using a yarn that gives you a good sock fabric at 8 stitches per inch, you should make the 64-stitch size (64 stitches divided by 8 stitches per inch gives an 8-inch sock, which will fit an 8.5-inch foot). If you’re using a yarn that gives you a good sock fabric at 7 stitches per inch, the 64-stitch size won’t work (64 stitches divided by 7 stitches per inch gives a sock a little over 9 inches, which would be too big). Instead, you need to make the 56-stitch size (56 stitches divided by 7 stitches per inch gives an 8-inch sock, which will fit an 8.5-inch foot). If you’re using a yarn that gives you a good sock fabric at 9 stitches per inch, the 64-stitch size won’t work (64 stitches divided by 9 stitches per inch gives a sock a little over 7 inches around, which would be too small). Instead you need to make the 72-stitch size (72 stitches divided by 9 stitches per inch gives an 8-inch sock, which will fit an 8.5-inch foot).

Heel flaps: Heel flaps are worked back and forth over somewhere around half of the stitches of the sock. Each sock pattern lists the specific stitches that are to be used for the heel flap. Be sure to read carefully to see which stitches to use. It is easy to adjust the height of your heel flap to make your sock really fit your foot. To figure out the right height, try slipping a rubber band around your ankle, standing up, and rolling it as far down as it will go. Make sure it’s straight and measure from the bottom of the rubber band to the floor. Try making your heel flap just a bit shorter than that measurement. Just be sure to work an even number of rows so you’re lined up properly to continue with the heel turn.

Pattern repeats: Generally, a chart shows one full repeat of a stitch pattern. Unless otherwise noted, this stitch pattern is worked across or around the entire row or round of the piece. For example, the Main Chart for the Fucus asparagoides sock is 10 stitches wide. The sock itself is 50, 60, 70, or 80 stitches around, depending on the size you’re making. When the pattern tells you to “work the Main Chart once,” that means repeat the 10 stitches of row 1 of the Main Chart 5, 6, 7, or 8 times to use up all 50, 60, 70, or 80 stitches of the round. Then repeat the 10 stitches of row 2 of the Main Chart 5, 6, 7, or 8 times to use up all 50, 60, 70, or 80 stitches of the round. Continue in this fashion until all rows have been worked. Put another way, “work the chart” means repeat the stitches of the chart over and over across the entire row or round until you reach the end.

Needles: All the patterns are written to work with any style of The general guideline is, if you’ve chosen a thicker yarn and are getting fewer stitches per inch than what the pattern calls for, consider making a smaller size. If you’ve chosen a thinner yarn and are getting more stitches per inch than what the pattern calls for, consider making a larger size. But you should always double check the math to make sure that it will work for you.

Grafting: Graft the ends of your toes however you like. All of the projects shown in the pictures were grafted with kitchener stitch.

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needle. You can use double points, one circular, two circulars, or anything else you can come up with, and you can arrange your stitches across your needles however you like. The only thing to keep in mind is that you will occasionally be told to work on certain stitches while setting others aside (for example when you make a heel flap). When this happens, just count from the beginning of the row or round to find the required stitches and rearrange as needed.

Notes: Several of the patterns include special notes. These are intended to draw your attention to important aspects of the patterns. Please be sure to read these notes carefully before you begin.

Right side: The right side of your knitting is the outside or the public side. It is abbreviated RS throughout the text. Shaded stitches: Some charts use shading to draw your attention to certain stitches. When this happens, there will always be a note explaining the specific instructions for that particular pattern. Please be sure to read these notes carefully before you begin. Sizing: Each of the patterns is offered in at least two sizes. Sometimes stitch counts or pattern repeats or other instructions differ from one size to the next. This is indicated by first giving the stitch count or pattern repeat for the smallest size and then giving the stitch count or pattern repeat for the larger sizes in square brackets. If there is more than one larger size, the stitch counts or pattern repeats will be separated by commas. So the instruction “Cast on 24 [36, 48] stitches” means cast on 24 stitches if you are making the smallest size, cast on 36 stitches if you are making the medium size, and cast on 48 stitches if you are making the largest size. Sometimes sizing is indicated on the charts by shading certain squares. When this happens, there will always be a note explaining the specific instructions for that particular pattern. Please be sure to read these notes carefully before you begin.

Stitch key: The stitch key gives the symbol, the name, the abbreviation if needed, and the instructions for each stitch or group of stitches. When needed, it also gives the instructions for working a particular stitch on the wrong side of the fabric. Be sure to follow these wrong-side instructions when working a wrongside row.

as you are getting elongated stitches along the edge of the fabric, you’re doing it right! One approach that works for most people is to always slip the first stitch as if to purl with your yarn held to the wrong side of the fabric. If you find that’s not working for the way you knit, you can also try holding the yarn to the back of the work and slipping as if to knit on right-side rows and holding the yarn to the front of the work and slipping as if to purl on wrong-side rows.

Stitch markers: Most patterns suggest using a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round. This is optional, but it can make it easier to see exactly what you are doing. If you find them helpful, you may also wish to use stitch markers to separate pattern repeats or to divide the front and back of a sock. Toes: Several of the socks have a bit of ribbing or other patterning on the toes. If you find that bothers your toes, you can always substitute stockinette or reversed stockinette instead. It is easy to adjust the shape of the toes to fit your feet. Most of the socks here have you decrease every other row until half your decreases are done and then decrease every round. If you’ve got pointy toes, you may want to decrease every other round until closer to three quarters of your decreases are done. If you’ve got flatter toes, you may want to decrease every other round until only one quarter of your decreases are done.

Wrong side: The wrong side of your knitting is the inside or the private side. It is abbreviated WS throughout the text.

Yarn requirements: Each pattern lists the approximate yardage used for the project shown. This is a good guideline, but estimating yardage requirements is a bit of a black art. If you decide to make the leg of your sock 10 inches tall or to make your fingerless gloves elbow length, you’re going to need more yarn. When in doubt, buy extra! It’s much easier to return an unneeded skein (or add it to the stash) than to run out on the last row.

Slipped stitches: Many of the projects call for slipping stitches along the edge of the knitting to create a tidy selvage stitch. There are almost as many ways to do this as there are knitters. As long

Tips

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Stitch Key Single Stitches Symbol

Right Side

Wrong Side

Abbreviation

Knit.

Purl.

k

Knit through the back loop.

Purl through the back loop.

ktbl

Purl.

Knit.

p

Purl through the back loop.

Knit through the back loop.

Knit, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice.

Purl below: Purl into the stitch below. Slip: Slip as if to purl with yarn to inside or wrong side of object.

Slip as if to purl with yarn to inside or wrong side of object.

Drop then yarn over: First, drop the next stitch on your left needle off the needle and let it fall. Next, work a yarn over. No stitch (this is occasionally a different color if needed for clarity): Indicates a square on the chart that does not correspond to a stitch. Do nothing. Proceed to the next chart symbol.

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Indicates a square on the chart that does not correspond to a stitch. Do nothing. Proceed to the next chart symbol.

sl

Single Decreases Symbol

Right Side

Wrong Side

Abbreviation

Drop: Drop the next stitch on your left needle off the needle and let it fall.

Drop the next stitch on your left needle off the needle and let it fall.

Right-leaning knit decrease: Knit 2 together.

Purl 2 together.

k2tog

Right-leaning purl decrease: Purl 2 together.

p2tog

Right-leaning twisted knit decrease: Slip 1 knitwise. Slip another 1 knitwise. Return the slipped stitches to the left needle. Knit 2 together. Left-leaning knit decrease: Slip 1 knitwise. Slip another 1 knitwise. Return slipped stitches to the left needle. Insert the right needle from the right to the left into the back loops of both stitches. Knit both together.

Slip 1 knitwise. Slip another 1 knitwise. Return slipped stitches to the left needle. Purl 2 together through the back loops.

ssk

Left-leaning purl decrease: Slip 1 knitwise. Slip another 1 knitwise. Return slipped stitches to the left needle. Purl 2 together through the back loops. Left-leaning twisted knit decrease: Insert the right needle from the right to the left into the back loops of 2 stitches. Knit both together.

Stitch Key

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Multiple Decreases Symbol

Right Side Centered double knit decrease: Slip 2 together at the same time as if to knit 2 together. Knit 1. Pass the slipped stitches over. Centered twisted double knit decrease: Slip 1 as if to purl. Remount the next stitch so it is rotated 180 degrees (one half turn) clockwise. Slip the first stitch back to the left needle. Slip 2 together at the same time as if to knit 2 together. Knit 1. Pass the slipped stitches over. Centered quadruple knit decrease: Slip 3 together at the same time (the same way you would if you were knitting 2 together but using 3 stitches instead of 2). Knit 2 together. Pass the slipped stitches over.

Increases Symbol

Right Side

Wrong Side

Abbreviation

Yarn over.

Yarn over.

yo

Knit front and back: Knit into the front then the back of the same stitch.

Purl into the front then the back of the same stitch.

Make 1 right: With the left needle, lift the strand of yarn between the last stitch you worked and the stitch you would normally work next from the back to the front. Knit into the loop created by the strand of yarn you just picked up. Make 1 left: With the left needle, lift the strand of yarn between the last stitch you worked and the stitch you would normally work next from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the loop created by the strand of yarn you just picked up. 1 into 5 increase: Knit, purl, knit, purl, and knit into the same stitch.

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Cables Symbol

Right Side 1x2x1 Cable, right: Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 1. Slip the 3 stitches on the cable needle back to the left needle. Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in front, purl 2, knit 1 from cable needle. 2x2 Cable, right: Slip 2 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle. 1x2 Cable, right: Slip 2 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 1, knit 2 from cable needle. 2x1 Cable, right: Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 2 through the back loop, purl 1 from cable needle. 1x1 Cable, right: Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 1 through the back loop, purl 1 from cable needle 1x2x1 Cable, left: Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in front. Slip 2 to second cable needle, hold in back, knit 1, purl 2 from second cable needle, knit 1 from first cable needle. 2x2 Cable, left: Slip 2 to cable needle, hold in front, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle. 1x2 Cable, left: Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in front, knit 2, knit 1 from cable needle. 2x1 Cable, left: Slip 2 to cable needle, hold in front, purl 1, knit 2 through the back loop from cable needle. 1x1 Cable, left: Slip 1 to cable needle, hold in front, purl 1, knit 1 through the back loop from cable needle. Directional cable: On the right sock, slip 3 to cable needle, hold in front, knit 4, knit 3 from cable needle. On the left sock, slip 4 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 3, knit 4 from cable needle. 8x8 Cable, right: Slip 8 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 8, knit 8 from cable needle. 8x8 Cable, left: Slip 8 to cable needle, hold in front, knit 8, knit 8 from cable needle.

Stitch Key

13

CONFERVA VILLOSA It is a very remarkable link in the chain . of marine vegetables, not being jointed in the stem, . but studded with knobs, while in the youngest shoots there are faint appearances of dissepimenta, visible only with a microscope … Down … springs from the knobs in the stem and … completely covers the lesser shoots. Its branches are few, remarkably opposite, and generally starting from the step at right angles. James Edward Smith

Conferva villosa

Conferva villosa SOCK Shown in: Finch by Quince & Co. in the color Carrie's Yellow. Made in size Medium with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 7.5 [8.5, 9.5] inches. Notes: The stitch count of the sock changes depending on the row of the chart you're following.

Cast on: Cast on 56 [64, 72] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the appropriate Cuff Chart once. 4 stitches increased. Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. For the left sock, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, start following the Main Chart on row 9 (instead of row 1). Stop after completing row 2 (for the left sock) or 10 (for the right sock) of the Main Chart. You will have 64 [72, 80] stitches on your needles. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 34-64 [39-72, 44-80]. It uses a total of 31 [34, 37] stitches on the first row. The first row of the heel flap decreases 2 stitches leaving a total of 29 [32, 35] stitches for the rest of the heel flap. Rows 1 and 3 are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work row 1 of the Heel Chart once. Work rows 2 and 3 of the Heel Chart 13 [14, 16] times or until heel flap reaches desired length.

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Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row. For all sizes: Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p15 [18, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k4 [7, 6], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p5 [8, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k6 [9, 8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p7 [10, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k8 [11, 10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p9 [12, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k10 [13, 12], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p11 [14, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k12 [15, 14], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p13 [16, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k14 [17, 16], ssk, k1. For Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 18], ssk, k1. 17 [20, 21] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3] additional purl stitches), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k8 [10, 11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3] additional purl stitches). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3] additional purl stitches). K to end of round.

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Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 29 [34, 39] stitches remain on the bottom of the foot between the markers. Repeat the non-decrease round until you're nearing your toes. That is, work as many repeats of the Main Chart as you can while leaving at least 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches for the toe. You'll fine tune the length using the Toe Chart). Stop after completing row 16 (for the left sock) or row 8 (for the right sock) of the Main Chart. Work the appropriate Toe Chart once (you will work 2 full repeats of the Toe Chart and 1 [2, 3] additional purl stitches). 2 stitches decreased. You will have 58 [68, 78] stitches on your needles. Work row 2 of the appropriate Toe Chart until sock measures 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches shorter than desired length. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. P1 [2, 3], work a left-leaning twisted knit decrease, follow ribbing as established by the appropriate Toe Chart until 3 [4, 5] stitches remain before second marker, work a right-leaning twisted knit decrease, p1 [2, 3]. K1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established by the appropriate Toe Chart to second marker. K to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 5 [7, 10] times, 38 [40, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 [6, 5] more times, 18 [16, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Chart notes: The left and right socks use different charts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. For the left sock, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, start following the Main Chart on row 9 (instead of row 1). The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work only the unshaded stitches for size Small. Work the unshaded stitches and the light gray stitches for size Medium. Work all stitches for size Large.

Conferva villosa

Stitch Key

Left Cuff Chart

Right Cuff Chart

Main Chart

Left Heel Chart

Right Heel Chart

Conferva villosa Sock

19

Left Toe Chart

Right Toe Chart

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Conferva villosa

Conferva villosa Sock

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Conferva villosa hat

Shown in: Lark by Quince & Co. in the color Split Pea. Made in size Medium with about 175 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 23 stitches in 4 inches in ribbing as shown on Brim Chart. Fits a head of 18.5 [21.5, 24.5] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 96 [112, 128] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Brim: Work the Brim Chart 6 times. Body: Work the Main Chart until hat reaches desired height before the decreases. Stop after completing row 6 of the Main Chart. Decreases: Work the Decrease Chart 3 times. 48 [56, 64] stitches remain after the first time, 24 [28, 32] stitches remain after the second time, 12 [14, 16] stitches remain after the third time. Work 1 row of ktbl, p1 ribbing. Work 1 row of left-leaning twisted knit decreases. [6, 7, 8] stitches remain. Finishing: Draw the yarn through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

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Conferva villosa

Stitch Key

Brim Chart

Main Chart

Decrease Chart

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Conferva villosa

Conferva villosa Hat

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FUCUS ASPARAGOIDES The name not unaptly expresses the general . form of the plant, which in some measure, though not precisely, recalls the idea of a miniature garden Asparagus in fruit. It grows about a span high, much and alternately branched, the stem and branches being all slender and round … The fructifications, in the form of a small red ball, grow on footstalks, alternate to each other, or irregularly scattered, but each of them constantly opposite to one of the awl-shaped branches. The . colour, when fresh, is a beautiful deep . transparent crimson. James Edward Smith

Fucus asparagoides

Fucus asparagoides Sock

Shown in: Plucky Feet by The Plucky Knitter in the color Spice of Life. Made in size Medium with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 6.5 [7.75, 9, 10.25] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 50 [60, 70, 80] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work row 1 of the Cuff Chart 8 times. Work rows 2-5 of the Cuff Chart once. Work the Main Chart until the sock almost reaches desired height. Stop after completing row 8 of the Main Chart. For the last 4 rounds of the leg, you will do something special to set up for the heel flap. You will use the Main Chart (exactly as you have been throughout the leg of the sock) for the stitches on the first half of the sock. At the same time, you will use the appropriate Final Leg Chart for the stitches on the second half of the sock (the stitches that will feed into the heel flap). To do this, start following row 1 of the Main Chart and work the first 25 [30, 35, 40] stitches of the round exactly as you have been. Starting with the 26th [31st, 36th, 41st] stitch of the round, start following the appropriate Final Leg Chart and follow it for the remaining stitches of the round. Work though rows 1-4 of the Main and Final Leg Charts in this fashion once. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 27-50 [32-60, 37-70, 42-80] plus 1 extra stitch added at the end of the first row of the heel flap for the Small and Large. It uses a total of 25 [29, 35, 39] stitches.

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The instructions are slightly different for the Small and Large and the Medium and Extra Large. In either case, odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). For the Small and Large, you will create 1 extra stitch the first time you work row 1 of the appropriate Heel Chart. Work row 1 of the appropriate Heel Chart once. Work rows 2-3 of the appropriate Heel Chart 12 [—, 17, —] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. For the Medium and Extra Large, work the appropriate Heel Chart — [15, —, 20] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row. Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p13 [15, 19, 21], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k4 [4, 6, 6], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p5 [5, 7, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k6 [6, 8, 8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p7 [7, 9, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k8 [8, 10, 10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p9 [9, 11, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k10 [10, 12, 12], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p11 [11, 13, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k12 [12, 14, 14], ssk, k1. For Medium, Large, and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [13, 15, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [14, 16, 16], ssk, k1. For Large and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 17, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 18, 18], ssk, k1. For Extra Large, as above plus: Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 20], ssk, k1.

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15 [17, 21, 23] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following row 5 of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k7 [8, 10, 11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K to end of round. Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 52 [62, 72, 82] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until sock measures 2.5 [2.75, 3, 3.25] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 8 of the Main Chart. Work the Toe Chart once (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Toe Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Toe Chart). Repeat row 5 of the Toe Chart as needed until sock measures 2 [2.25, 2.5, 2.75] shorter than desired length. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Ktbl1, p1, work a left-leaning twisted decrease, follow ribbing as established by row 5 of the Toe Chart until 3 [4, 3, 4] stitches remain before second marker, work a right-leaning twisted decrease, p1, ktbl1 [0, 1, 0]. K1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established to second marker. K to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 4 [6, 9, 11] times, 36 [38, 36, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 16 [18, 16, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Fucus asparagoides

Stitch Key

Cuff Chart

Main Chart

Chart notes: Pay special attention to the end of the leg. For the last 4 rows of the leg, you will be following one chart for the front of the sock and another for the back of the sock. Be sure to pay close attention to the written instructions.

Final Leg Chart, Small and Large

The sizes use different Heel and Final Leg Charts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 11 [13, 16, 18] times.

Final Leg Chart, Medium and Extra Large

Fucus asparagoides Sock

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Heel Flap Chart, Small and Large

Heel Flap Chart, Medium and Extra Large

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Toe Chart

Fucus asparagoides

Fucus asparagoides Sock

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Fucus asparagoides Shawl Shown in: Plucky Single by The Plucky Knitter in the color Joe Banks. Made in size Medium with about 300 yards of yarn (you can make the Small, Medium, and Large with one skein, the Extra Large may take part of a second skein). Gauge and sizing: 20 stitches in 5 inches in stockinette. After blocking, the shawl is about 41 [46, 49, 54] inches across at the top edge.

Cast on: Using a stretchy cast on, cast on 205 [225, 245, 265] stitches. Edging: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the shawl facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the shawl facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the Lower Chart once. Work the Main Chart 3 times. Transition: Row 1 (WS): Sl1, k1, p until 2 stitches remain, k1, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k to end of row. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, k until 1 stitch remains, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k to end of row. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, k1, p until 2 stitches remain, k1, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k to end of row. Work these 6 rows once. Body: Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p106 [116, 126, 136]. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k8

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Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p7, p2tog, p3. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k10, ssk, k3.

Stitch Key

Continue to work rows 3 and 4, adding 3 to the central stretch of stockinette each row (so p13 on row 5, k16 on row 6, p19 on row 7, k22 on row 8, etc). Work these 2 rows a total of 20 [20, 25, 25] times. 40 [40, 50, 50] stitches decreased. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p until 2 stitches remain, k1, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k to end of row. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, k until 1 stitch remains, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k to end of row. Work these 4 rows once. Upper edging: Work the Upper Chart once. Finishing: Bind off loosely, weave in ends. Block as described. Blocking: First, place a pin at point A, the upper center of the shawl. Then, place a second pin at point B, the lower center of the shawl (likely about 16 [16, 18, 18] inches below point A). Next, pull the shawl out straight at the top and place the third and fourth pins at the points marked C (the distance between them should be about 41 [46, 49, 54] inches. Pull the sides of the shawl down and place the fifth and sixth pins at the points marked D (likely about 8 inches below the points marked C).

Lower Chart

Place pins along the top and sides of the shawl as necessary to hold those lines straight. Using a piece of string or your tape measure as a compass (stick a pin through the hole in the little metal rivet at the top of the tape measure and secure it at point A), pin out each of the 5 pattern repeats on either side of point B to create the lower curve. These points are marked E. The two curves on either edge will pop into shape as you pin out the central curve, you don't need to pin them in place.

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Chart notes: The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the shawl. Work them 20 [22, 24, 26] times when working the Lower and Main Charts and 16 [18, 19, 21] times when working the Upper Chart.

C

A

C

D

D

E

Upper Chart

E E

E

E

E

B

E

E

E

E

Fucus asparagoides Shawl

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Fucus asparagoides

Main Chart

PLANORBIS CORNEUS Shell an inch in diameter, thick, usually of a . rusty brown colour above and whitish underneath, obliquely striate: volutions five, the outer one rounded, with a deep umbilicus on the upper side exposing three of the volutions; under surface a little concave and whitish: aperture rather oblique, rounded, . as high as broad. William Turton

Planorbis corneus

Planorbis corneus Sock Shown in: Bluestocking by String Theory in the color Mead. Made in size Large with about 300 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 6.25 [7.75, 8.25, 10.25] inches. Notes: The stitch count of the sock changes depending on the row of the chart you're following.

Cast on: Cast on 48 [60, 64, 80] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff: Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. For the left sock, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, if making the Large or Extra Large, start following the Main Chart at column 11 instead of column 1. Stop after completing row 12 of the Main Chart. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 26-48 [32-60, 34-64, 42-80]. It uses a total of 23 [29, 31, 39] stitches. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the Heel Chart 12 [14, 17, 19] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row. Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p13 [15, 17, 21], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k6 [4, 6, 6], ssk, k1.

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Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p7 [5, 7, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k8 [6, 8, 8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p9 [7, 9, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k10 [8, 10, 10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p11 [9, 11, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k12 [10, 12, 12], ssk, k1. For Medium, Large, and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p— [11, 13, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k— [12, 14, 14], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [13, 15, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [14, 16, 16], ssk, k1. For Extra Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 18], ssk, k1. Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 20], ssk, k1. 15 [17, 19, 23] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the first row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 9 [11, 1, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k7 [8, 9, 11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 [4, 3, 4] stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1 [2, 1, 2]. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 9 [11, 1, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). P1 [2, 1, 2], ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 [2, 1, 2] stitches remain before first marker, p1 [2, 1, 2]. Work across the top of the foot following the first row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 9 [11, 1, 1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). P1 [2, 1, 2], k to end of round.

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Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 50 [62, 66, 82] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until 2 [2.25, 2.5, 2.75] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 1-4 or 7-10 of the Main Chart. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 [4, 3, 4] stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1 [2, 1, 2]. Ktbl1, p1 [2, 1, 2], ssk, follow ribbing as established by row 1 of the Main Chart until 4 [5, 4, 5] stitches remain before second marker, k2tog, p1 [2, 1, 2], ktbl1. P1 [2, 1, 2], ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 [2, 1, 2] stitches remain before first marker, p1 [2, 1, 2]. Follow ribbing as established by row 1 of the Main Chart. P1 [2, 1, 2], k to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 3 [6, 7, 11] times, 38 [40, 38, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 18 [20, 18, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Stitch Key

Planorbis corneus

Main Chart Chart notes: For the left sock, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, if making the Large or Extra Large, start following the Main Chart at column 11 instead of column 1. The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work only the unshaded stitches for size Small and Large. Work all stitches for size Medium and Extra Large. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 1 [1, 2, 2] times.

Heel Chart

Planorbis corneus Sock

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Planorbis corneus shawl Shown in: Caper Aran by String Theory in the color Shale. Made with 10 repeats of the Main Chart (which gives a 50-inch wingspan and a depth of 20 inches) with about 225 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Final size is completely adjustable. Make it small and it's a cowl, make it giant and wrap yourself up in it. Just keep working the Main Chart until it's the size you want.

Cast on: Cast on 12 stitches. Set up: The Setup Chart shows a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the shawl facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Work the Setup Chart once. 2 stitches increased. Body: Odd rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the shawl facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Even rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the shawl facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Work the Main Chart until shawl reaches desired size. Each row increases the stitch count by 2. Stop after completing row 2 or row 6 of the Main Chart. Work the next 2 rows of the Main Chart (either rows 3 and 4 or rows 7 and 8 depending on where you stopped), but instead of working the shaded stitches on the Main Chart, use the End Chart to replace them. You're continuing exactly as you have been, but without the

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increases. This keeps the pointy tip of your shawl from being too spindly. Finishing: Bind off loosely using a stretchy bind off (I recommend Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off). Weave in ends. Block to shape. Blocking: First, pin the right edge straight. Then, smooth out the piece, it will take a crescent shape. Pin the bottom edge in place. Then stretch the top edge (that's your bound-off edge) out and pin it in place.

Setup Chart

Main Chart

End Chart

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Stitch Key

-OF

F ED

GE

Planorbis corneus

BO

D UN

Chart notes: The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the shawl. Work them 1 time the first time you work the Main Chart and 4 more times for each subsequent repeat of the Main Chart (that is, work them 5 times the second time you work the Main Chart, 9 times the third time you work the Main Chart, 13 times the fourth time you work the Main Chart, and so on). The shaded stitches show you where the increases happen. They are shaded to help you understand the construction of the shawl.

Planorbis corneus Shawl

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LIMNEUS STAGNALIS Shell an inch and a half long, and . nearly an inch wide, thin and brittle, of a greyish-. white colour, often covered with an extraneous coat: spire composed of six or several volutions which are rounded and tumid, tapering to a fine point; the larger one striate longitudinally and generally crossed by . raised transverse lines, giving an angular . appearance like cut glass. William Turton

Limneus stagnalis

Limneus stagnalis Sock

Shown in: Socks that Rock Mediumweight by Blue Moon Fiber Arts in the color Saffron Surprise. Made in size Medium with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 7 [7.75, 9.25, 10.25] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 54 [60, 72, 80] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the Cuff Chart once. Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. For the left sock, and for the right sock if making the Small or Medium, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, if making the Large or Extra Large, start following the Main Chart at column 11 instead of column 1. Stop after completing row 5 or row 11 of the Main Chart. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 30-54 [34-60, 39-72, 44-80]. It uses a total of 25 [27, 34, 37] stitches. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the Heel Chart 13 [14, 17, 18] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row.

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Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p13 [15, 18, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k4 [6, 5, 4], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p5 [7, 6, 5], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k6 [8, 7, 6], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p7 [9, 8, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k8 [10, 9, 8], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p9 [11, 10, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k10 [12, 11, 10], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p11 [13, 12, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k12 [14, 13, 12], ssk, k1. For Large and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 14, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 15, 14], ssk, k1. Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 16, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 17, 16], ssk, k1. For Extra Large, as above plus: Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 18], ssk, k1. 15 [17, 20, 21] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 11 [13, 2, 3] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k8 [9, 10, 11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 11 [13, 2, 3] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [1, 2, 2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 11 [13, 2, 3] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K to end of round.

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Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 56 [62, 74, 82] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until you're nearing your toes sock measures 2 [2.25, 2.75, 3] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 4 or 10 of the Main Chart. Repeat rows 1 and 2 of the Main Chart as needed to adjust length, stop after completing row 2 of the Main Chart. Toe: Initial decrease round: K to first marker. P2 [3, 2, 3], ssk, follow ribbing as established by row 1 of the Main Chart until 4 [5, 4, 5] stitches remain before second marker, k2tog, p2 [3, 2, 3]. K to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Initial non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established by row 2 of the Main Chart to second marker. K to end of round. Work these 2 rows 1 [2, 1, 2] times, 54 [58, 72, 78] stitches remain. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. P2 [3, 2, 3], ssk, follow ribbing as established by rows 1 and 2 of the Main Chart until 4 [5, 4, 5] stitches remain before second marker, k2tog, p2 [3, 2, 3]. K1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established by row 2 of the Main Chart to second marker. K to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 4 [5, 8, 10] times, 38 [38, 40, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 18 [18, 20, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Limneus stagnalis

Stitch Key

Chart notes: The directional cable is different depending on whether you're working the left or the right sock. Be sure to follow the correct instructions. On the left sock: Slip 4 to cable needle, hold in back. Knit 3. Knit 4 from cable needle. On the right sock: Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in front. Knit 4. Knit 3 from cable needle. For the left sock, and for the right sock if making the Small or Medium, use the Main Chart as normal. For the right sock, if making the Large or Extra Large, start following the Main Chart at column 11 instead of column 1. The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work only the unshaded stitches for size Small and Large. Work all stitches for size Medium and Extra Large.

Cuff Chart

The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 1 [1, 2, 2] times.

Main Chart

Heel Chart

Limneus stagnalis Sock

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Limneus stagnalis cowl

Shown in: Marine Silk Sport by Blue Moon Fiber Arts in the color Spores. Made in size Medium (with a depth of 12 inches) with about 225 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 5 stitches in 1 inches in pattern as charted. Finished size of 23.75 [26.5, 29.5] inches across, depth is adjustable. Notes: This simple cowl (it's really just a rectangle with the points pulled out during blocking) is surprisingly versatile. The small buttonholes on each side are perfect for double-sided buttons or lacing up with ribbon, and of course shawl pins work beautifully too.

Cast on: Cast on 119 [133, 147] stitches. Body: Odd rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the cowl facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Even rows are wrongside rows (worked with the inside of the cowl facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Work the Main Chart until cowl reaches desired depth. Stop after completing row 24 of the Main Chart. The very last time you work row 23, don't work the buttonholes. Instead, knit those stitches. Finishing: Bind off loosely. Weave in ends. Block vigorously. If you want points on your cowl (as shown), pin at the center and edge of the stitch repeat.

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Limneus stagnalis

Main Chart

Chart Notes: The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the cowl. Work them 8 [9, 10] times.

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Stitch Key

Limneus stagnalis

Limneus stagnalis Cowl

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SERPULA CONTORTUPLICATA The body of the Serpules is in . the form of an elongated tube, slightly . depressed, becoming thinner at the hind end, . with many narrow segments … The first segment has no appendages; it is obliquely truncated to allow the insertion of the terminal gills which fan out on either side of the mouth in plumes, usually brightly colored and deeply divided into individual branches ... Serpules create their tubes from solidified calcareous secretions; the tubes are irregularly curved and occur in groups or singularly, but always have a single rounded opening . at the end. The tubes are attached to rocks, . shells or other underwater bodies, around . which they wrap themselves. Charles Dessalines d'Orbigny

Serpula contortuplicata

Serpula contortuplicata Sock

Shown in: Staccato by Shibui in the color Raspberry. Made in size Medium with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 6.5 [7.75, 9, 10.25] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 50 [60, 70, 80] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the appropriate Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. Stop after completing row 1 or row 8 of the Main Chart. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 27-50 [32-60, 37-70, 42-80]. It uses a total of 24 [29, 34, 39] stitches. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the Heel Chart 13 [14, 16, 18] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row. Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p14 [15, 18, 21], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [4, 5, 6], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p8 [5, 6, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k9 [6, 7, 8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p10 [7, 8, 9], p2tog, p1.

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Serpula contortuplicata

Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k11 [8, 9, 10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p12 [9, 10, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k13 [10, 11, 12], ssk, k1.

2.25 [2.5, 2.75, 3] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 1 or 8 of the appropriate Main Chart. Repeat row 1 of the appropriate Main Chart as needed to adjust length.

For Medium, Large, and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p— [11, 12, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k— [12, 13, 14], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [13, 14, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [14, 15, 16], ssk, k1.

Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work a left-leaning twisted decrease, follow ribbing as established by row 1 of the appropriate Main Chart until 2 stitches remain before second marker, work a right-leaning twisted decrease. K1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased.

For Large and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 16, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 17, 18], ssk, k1.

Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established to second marker. K to end of round.

For Extra Large, as above plus: Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 20], ssk, k1.

Work these 2 rounds 4 [6, 9, 11] times, 36 [38, 36, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 16 [18, 16, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

16 [17, 20, 23] stitches remain.

Stitch Key

Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the appropriate Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k8 [9, 10, 11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the appropriate Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the appropriate Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 6 [1, 6, 1] stitches of an additional repeat). K to end of round. Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 52 [62, 72, 82] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until sock measures

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Serpula contortuplicata

Left Main Chart

Chart notes: The left and right socks use different charts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. One of the stitches in the chart tells you to knit, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice. When you come to this stitch in the next round, drop the extra loop of yarn off your needle. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 3 [4, 5, 6] times.

Heel Chart

Right Main Chart

Heel Chart

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Serpula contortuplicata mitt Yarn: Silk Cloud by Shibui in the color Ash. Made in size Medium with about 200 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 6 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits an arm of about 5 [6.25, 7.5] inches. Measure at the widest part of the arm that you want the cuff to cover. The fit on these is unusual. The mitt floats loosely on your hand and wrist, rather than stretching and clinging tightly. Because of this fit, and because of the large cables, you will have far more stitches on the needle than you might expect. Note: Part of the mitt is worked in the round, and part of it is worked back and forth. Pay close attention to the instructions.

Cast on: Cast on 64 [80, 96] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Wrist: Work the appropriate Main Chart once. Work rows 1-8 of the appropriate Main Chart again. Be sure that for row 8, you work 4 [5, 6] cable crosses and then knit 8 more stitches to bring you back to the start of the round (as explained in the chart note). Hand, part 1: To work the hand, you will switch from working in the round to working back and forth. Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the mitt facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the mitt facing you, following the rightside notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Turn the mitt so the wrong side is facing you and start working the appropriate Hand Chart. Work the appropriate Hand Chart once.

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Serpula contortuplicata

Hand, part 2: The second part of the hand is worked in the round. You just finished working a right-side row, so the right side of the mitt is facing you. Keep the right side of the mitt facing you and start working in the round. Start following the appropriate Main Chart again. Start following the Main Chart at row 7. Work rows 7-15 of the appropriate Main Chart once. Finishing: Cast off loosely. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

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Serpula contortuplicata

Stitch Key

Left Main Chart Chart notes: The left and right mitt use different charts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. Row 8 of the Main Chart requires extra attention. When you are finishing row 7, do not work the final 8 stitches of the row. Instead, jump straight into row 8. Work across row 8 (you'll work 4 [5, 6] cables). Then knit 8 more stitches (they make up for the 8 stitches you did not work at the end of row 7 and bring you back to the start of the round).

Serpula contortuplicata Mitt

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Right Main Chart

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Serpula contortuplicata

Left Hand Chart

Right Hand Chart

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PELAGIA NOCTILUCA Pelagiidae are almost all phosphorescent . to a very pronounced degree and are of medium . size … Under the umbrella in four open cavities are found the ovarian cords, narrow and drawn in like a ruff, which, on the edge facing the stomach cavity, have a . row of thin elongated tentacles which move . ceaselessly by means of the vibrating cilia . which cover their surface. Charles Dessalines d'Orbigny

Pelagia noctiluca

Pelagia noctiluca Sock

Shown in: Shepherd Sock by Lorna's Laces in the color Satsuma. Made in size Medium with about 300 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 9 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 7.25 [8.75, 10.25] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 60 [72, 84] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the appropriate Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. Stop after completing row 10 or 20 of the appropriate Main Chart. Note whether this is row A or row B. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 31-60 [37-72, 43-84]. It uses a total of 30 [36, 42] stitches. If the last row of the leg was row A, use Heel Chart A. If the last row of the leg was row B, use Heel Chart B. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the appropriate Heel Chart 14 [17, 20] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row. Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p16 [20, 22], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k5 [7, 5], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p6 [8, 6], p2tog, p1.

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Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k7 [9, 7], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p8 [10, 8], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k9 [11, 9], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p10 [12, 10], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k11 [13, 11], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p12 [14, 12], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k13 [15, 13], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p14 [16, 14], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k15 [17, 15], ssk, k1. For Medium and Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [18, 16], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [19, 17], ssk, k1. For Large, as above plus: Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 18], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 19], ssk, k1. Row 17 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 20], p2tog, p1. Row 18 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 21], ssk, k1. 18 [22, 24] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the first row of the appropriate Main Chart, place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k9 [11, 12]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the appropriate Main Chart. P1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 stitch remains before first marker, p1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the appropriate Main Chart. P1, k to end of round. Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 60 [72, 84] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until you're nearing your toes (just work as many repeats of the chart as you can, you'll

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fine tune the length in the next step). Stop after completing row 10 or 20 of the appropriate Main Chart. Note whether this is row A or row B. Work the appropriate Toe Chart once. If the last row of the foot was row A, use Toe Chart A. If the last row of the foot was row B, use Toe Chart B. Work the appropriate Toe Chart until sock measures 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches shorter than desired length. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1. P1, ssk, follow ribbing as established by the appropriate Toe Chart until 3 stitches remain before second marker, k2tog, p1. P1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 stitch remains before first marker, p1. Follow ribbing as established by the appropriate Toe Chart to second marker. P1, k to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 5 [8, 11] times, 40 stitches remain. Work the decrease round 6 more times, 16 stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Stitch Key

Right Main Chart

Pelagia noctiluca

Left Main Chart

Toe Chart A

Toe Chart B

Chart notes: The left and right socks use different charts. The Heel and Toe Charts differ depending on whether you stop the Main Chart after row A or row B. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 3 [4, 5] times.

Heel Chart A

Heel Chart B

Pelagia noctiluca Sock

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PELAGIA NOCTILUCA Hat

Shown in: Pearl by Lorna's Laces in the color The Bean. Made in size Medium with about 175 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 14 stitches in 2 inches in pattern as shown on Main Chart. Fits a head of 18 [20, 22, 24] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 112 [126, 140, 154] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Brim: Work row 1 of the Brim Chart 8 times. Work rows 2-9 of the Brim Chart once. Body: Work the Main Chart until hat reaches desired height before the decreases. Stop after completing row 16 of the Main Chart. The hat is meant to be slouchy. When in doubt, go taller. Decreases: Work the Decrease Chart once. 8 [9, 10, 11] stitches remain. Finishing: Draw the yarn through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

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Pelagia noctiluca

Stitch Key

Brim Chart

Main Chart

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Decrease Chart

Chart notes: When a centered double decrease is the first stitch on the needle, it requires extra attention. The double decrease turns 3 stitches into 1. When the double decrease happens at the beginning of a needle, the first of those 3 stitches is the last stitch of the previous needle. For example, the first stitch of row 11 of the Main Chart is a centered double decrease. The decrease will use the last stitch of round 10 and the first 2 stitches of round 11. To make the decrease, do not work the last stitch of round 10. Instead, use it as the first of the 3 stitches of the decrease as described in the stitch key. The completed stitch will be the first stitch of round 11.

Pelagia noctilucaHAt

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PADINA PAVONIA I here make an exception to my general rule of excluding all but the commonest objects, in favor of one sea-weed, which, although not very common, yet may be found quite unexpectedly. It owes its introduction to its very singular form. The name of it is the Peacock's-Tail, deriving its title from its shape … The habitation of this plant is midway between high and low water-mark, where it may occasionally be found adhering to the rocks. John George Wood

Padina pavonia

Padina pavonia Sock Shown in: Everlasting Sock by Dream in Color in the color Bitter. Made in size Large with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 6.75 [9] inches. (If you want to fine tune the size, you can adjust the gauge. At 8 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette, fits a foot or leg of 7 [9.5] inches. At 9 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette, fits a foot or leg of 6.5 [8.5].)

Cast on: Cast on 54 [72] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. If making the Small, for the second sock, start following the Main Chart at column 10 instead of column 1. Stop after completing row 6 of the Main Chart. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 29-54 [38-72]. It uses a total of 26 [35] stitches. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the appropriate Heel Chart 6 [17] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row.

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Padina pavonia

Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p14 [19], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k5 [6], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p6 [7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k7 [8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p8 [9], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k9 [10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p10 [11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k11 [12], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p12 [13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k13 [14], ssk, k1. For Large, as above plus: Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [16], ssk, k1. Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [18], ssk, k1.

[2.5] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 6 of the Main Chart. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, k until 3 stitches remain before second marker, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 5 [9] times, 36 [38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 16 [18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Stitch Key

16 [21] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the first row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 10 [1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k8 [11]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 10 [1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 1 [2] full repeats of the Main Chart and 10 [1] stitches of an additional repeat of the Main Chart). K to end of round. Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 56 [74] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until sock measures 2.25

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Main Chart

Padina pavonia

Small Heel Chart

Chart notes: If making the Small, for the second sock, start following the Main Chart at column 10 instead of column 1. The sizes use different Heel Charts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts.

Large Heel Chart

The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 11 [17] times.

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Padina pavonia mitt

Yarn: Smooshy by Dream in Color in the color Pansy Golightly. Made in size Medium with about 150 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 7 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits an arm of about 5.75 [6.25, 7, 7.5] inches. Measure at the widest part of the arm that you want the cuff to cover.

Cast on: Using needles one size larger than those needed to get gauge, cast on 32 [36, 40, 44] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff: Using needles one size larger than those needed to get gauge, (k8 [9, 10, 11], yo) 4 times. 4 stitches increased. K all stitches for 43 rounds. (If you want the ruched section to be deeper, work extra rows. Just be sure you're adding rows in groups of 4.) Ruching: (K8 [9, 10, 11], drop the next stitch off the needle and allow it to run down to the yarn over worked on the first row, ladder the stitches back up in groups of 4 as shown on page 89) 4 times. Switch to needles needed to get gauge. Use them from now on. K all stitches for 4 rounds. Thumb: to make the thumb, you will gradually create 12 [12, 14, 14] extra stitches. Left thumb gusset: Place a new marker after stitch 4 [4, 5, 5]. K to marker, slip marker, yo, k to end of round. Work this round 12 [12, 14, 14] times. 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches increased. Right thumb gusset: Place a new marker 5 [5, 6, 6] stitches before the end of the round. K to marker, yo, slip marker, k to end of round. Work this round 12 [12, 14, 14] times. 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches increased.

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Hand, part 1: K all stitches for 8 [8, 10, 10] rounds or until cuff reaches the middle of your palm. Hand, part 2: Locate the 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches created for the thumb (these will be the 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches after the new marker for the left cuff and the 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches before the new marker for the right cuff) and set them aside on a spare needle or length of scrap yarn. Remove the new marker used to mark off the thumb stitches. K all stitches for 8 [8, 10, 10] rounds or until cuff reaches base of your fingers. Cast off loosely. Thumb: Divide the 12 [12, 14, 14] stitches set aside for the thumb across two needles. Pick up 4 [4, 6, 6] stitches to bridge the gap between the first and last of the set aside thumb stitches. K all stitches for 8 [8, 10, 10 rounds]. Finishing: Cast off loosely. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

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Ruching Instructions: 1) Create the fabric as instructed, then drop the indicated stitch and allow it to run all the way down. 2) Insert a crochet hook under the first 8 strands of yarn. 3) Use the crochet hook to pull the top 4 strands through the bottom 4 (much as you'd do with a dropped stitch, just using more strands of yarn). 4) Insert the crochet hook under the next 4 strands of yarn. 5) Pull them through the previous 4. Repeat as needed until all strands of yarn are used. 6) Place the final 4 strands on the left needle, treat them as a single stitch on the next round.

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BUNODES CRASSICORNIS The colours of this animal are very varied, hardly any two specimens being found of exactly the same tint, and the magnitude of its . fully expanded disc is nearly equal to that of the crown . of an ordinary hat. [They are] all so delicately transparent that no colour can faithfully represent their beauty … The base of each tentacle is surrounded with a pear-shaped dark line. It is on this line that the depth of colour is chiefly lavished, the tentacle itself being always much fainter in . tint, and as translucent as if formed from gelatine. . The tentacles are very thick in proportion to their . length, and it is from this peculiarity that the . creatures derives its name of “crassicornis,” . signifying “thick-horned.” John George Wood

Bunodes crassicornis

Bunodes crassicornis Sock

Shown in: Arroyo by Malabrigo in the color English Rose. Made in size Medium with about 300 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 8.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 6.75 [8.5, 10] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 52 [66, 78] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. To make the socks mirror each other, start following the Main Chart on row 1 for the first sock and on row 13 for the second sock. Stop after completing row 12 or 24 of the Main Chart. Note whether this is row A or row B. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 29-52 [35-66, 42-78]. It uses a total of 24 [32, 37] stitches. If the last row of the leg was row A, use Heel Chart A. If the last row of the leg was row B, use Heel Chart B. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the appropriate Heel Chart 13 [16, 19] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row.

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Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p14 [18, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [7, 4], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p8 [8, 5], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k9 [9, 6], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p10 [10, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k11 [11, 8], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p12 [12, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k13 [13, 10], ssk, k1. For Medium and Large, as above plus: Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p— [14, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k— [15, 12], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p— [16, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k— [17, 14], ssk, k1. For Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 16], ssk, k1. Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, 18], ssk, k1. 16 [20, 21] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3] full repeats of the Main Chart and 2 [1, 2] additional twisted knit stitches), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k8 [10, 10]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3] full repeats of the Main Chart and 2 [1, 2] additional twisted knit stitches). P1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 stitch remains before first marker, p1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 2 [3, 3] full repeats of the Main Chart and 2 [1, 2] additional twisted knit stitches). P1, k to end of round.

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Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 56 [68, 82] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until sock measures 2.25 [2.5, 3] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 12 or 24 of the Main Chart. Repeat row 12 or 24 of the Main Chart as needed to adjust length. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, p1. Ktbl1 [0, 1], work a left-leaning twisted decrease, follow ribbing as established by row 12 or 24 of the Main Chart until 3 [2, 3] stitches remain before second marker, work a right-leaning twisted decrease, ktbl1 [0, 1]. P1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K until 1 stitch remains before first marker, p1. Follow ribbing as established to second marker. P1, k to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 5 [8, 11] times, 36 [36, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 16 [16, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

Chart notes: To make the socks mirror each other, start following the Main Chart on row 1 for the first sock and on row 13 for the second sock. The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work all stitches for Small and Large, and work only the unshaded stitches for Medium. The Heel Charts differ depending on whether you stop the Main Chart after row A or row B. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 1 [2, 2] times.

Bunodes crassicornis

Stitch Key

Main Chart

Heel Chart A

Heel Chart B

Bunodes crassicornis Sock

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Bunodes crassicornis hat

Shown in: Rios by Malabrigo in the color Sunset. Made in size Medium with about 150 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 22 stitches in 4 inches in ribbing as shown on Brim Chart. Fits a head of 18.25 [19.5, 21, 22.5, 23.75] inches. Notes: The stitch count of the hat changes depending on the row of the chart you're following. The decreases happen very quickly (in just 6 rounds). You won't get any extra height from them. Be sure the hat is as tall as you'd like it to be before you begin working the decreases.

Cast on: Cast on 91 [98, 105, 112, 119] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Brim: Work the Brim Chart 8 times. Body: Work the Main Chart until hat reaches desired height before the decreases. Stop after completing row 8 of the Main Chart. Decreases: Work the Decrease Chart once. 13 [14, 15, 16, 17] stitches remain. Work 6 [7, 7, 8, 8] right-leaning twisted decreases. 7 [7, 8, 8, 9] stitches remain. Finishing: Draw the yarn through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

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Bunodes crassicornis

Stitch Key

Brim Chart

Main Chart

Decrease Chart

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Bunodes crassicornis Hat

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ZOSTERA MARINA A Plant has been mentioned, which does not belong . to the sea-weeds, although from its residence at the bottom of the sea it is often thought to be of that family; this is … a true flowering plant, growing with a real root at the bottom of the sea. Its entire character is so completely terrestrial, that it can at once be distinguished from alga. John George Wood

Zostera marina

Zostera marina Sock

Shown in: BFL Sock by Sweet Georgia in the color Pistachio. Made in size Medium with about 325 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 9 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits a foot or leg of about 7.25 [8, 8.75, 9.75] inches.

Cast on: Cast on 66 [72, 78, 88] stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round. Cuff and leg: Work the Main Chart until sock reaches desired height. To make the socks mirror each other, start following the Main Chart on row 1 for the first sock and on row 9 for the second sock. Stop after completing row 8 or 16 of the Main Chart. Note whether this is row A or row B. Heel flap: The heel flap is worked over stitches 35-66 [39-72, 43-78, 46-88]. It uses a total of 32 [34, 36, 43] stitches. If the last row of the leg was row A, use Heel Chart A. If the last row of the leg was row B, use Heel Chart B. Row 1 is a wrong-side row (worked with the inside of the sock facing you, following the wrong-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from left to right). Row 2 is a right-side row (worked with the outside of the sock facing you, following the right-side notations in the stitch key, and reading the chart from right to left). Work the appropriate Heel Chart 15 [16, 17, 19] times or until heel flap reaches desired length. Heel turn: Odd rows are wrong-side rows (worked with the inside of the sock facing you). Even rows are right-side rows (worked with the outside of the sock facing you). Turn at the end of each row.

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Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p18 [18, 20, 23], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [5, 7, 6], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p8 [6, 8, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k9 [7, 9, 8], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p10 [8, 10, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k11 [9, 11, 10], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p12 [10, 12, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k13 [11, 13, 12], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p14 [12, 14, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k15 [13, 15, 14], ssk, k1. Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p16 [14, 16, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k17 [15, 17, 16], ssk, k1. For Medium, Large, and Extra Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p— [16, 18, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k— [17, 19, 18], ssk, k1. For Extra Large, as above plus: Row 15 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 19], p2tog, p1. Row 16 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 20], ssk, k1. Row 17 (WS): Sl1, p— [—, —, 21], p2tog, p1. Row 18 (RS): Sl1, k— [—, —, 22], ssk, k1.

full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3, 1] additional purl stitches). K to end of round. Alternate decrease and non-decrease rounds until 68 [76, 84, 90] stitches remain. Repeat the non-decrease round until 2.25 [2.5, 2.75, 3] inches shorter than desired length. Stop after completing row 8 or 16 of the Main Chart. Repeat row 9 (if you stopped the foot after completing row 8) or row 1 (if you stopped the foot after completing row 16) of the Main Chart as needed to adjust length. Toe: Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. P1 [2, 3, 1] Work a left-leaning twisted decrease, follow ribbing as established by row 1 or 9 of the Main Chart until 3 [4, 5, 3] stitches remain before second marker, work a right-leaning twisted decrease. P1 [2, 3, 1], ssk, k to end of round. 4 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Follow ribbing as established to second marker. K to end of round. Work these 2 rounds 8 [9, 11, 13] times, 36 [40, 40, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 16 [20, 20, 18] stitches remain. K to first marker. Remove markers. Graft toes. Weave in ends.

20 [20, 22, 25] stitches remain. Gusset and foot: Setup round: Pick up and knit stitches along the side of the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 3 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3, 1] additional purl stitches), place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k10 [10, 11, 12]. The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. Decrease round: K until 3 stitches remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 3 [3, 3, 4] full repeats of the Main Chart and 1 [2, 3, 1] additional purl stitches). K1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 stitches decreased. Non-decrease round: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart (you will work 3 [3, 3, 4]

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Chart notes: To make the socks mirror each other, start following the Main Chart on row 1 for the first sock and on row 9 for the second sock. The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work the unshaded stitches for the Small and Extra Large, the unshaded and light gray stitches for the Medium, and all stitches for the Large. The Heel Charts differ depending on whether you stop the Main Chart after row A or row B. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. The stitches surrounded by the red border are repeated to adjust the size of the heel flap. Work them 1 [1, 1, 2] times.

Zostera marina

Stitch Key

Main Chart

Heel Chart A

Heel Chart B

Zostera marina Sock

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Zostera marina mitt

Shown in: Merino Silk Aran by Sweet Georgia in the color China Doll. Made in the 36-stitch size with about 125 yards of yarn. Gauge and sizing: 5.5 stitches in 1 inch in stockinette. Fits an arm of about 4.75 [5.25, 5.75, 7.25, 7.75, 8.5] inches. Measure at the widest part of the arm that you want the mitt to cover.

Cast on: Cast on 24 [26, 28, 36, 39, 42] stitches. Join for working in the round. Wrist: Work the Main Chart until wrist reaches desired length. For the right mitt, use the Main Chart as normal. For the left mitt, start following the Main Chart on row 9 (instead of row 1). Stop after completing row 16 (for the right mitt) or 8 (for the left mitt) of the Main Chart. Thumb: To make the thumb gusset, you will gradually create 12 [12, 12, 12, 14, 14] extra stitches. Right thumb gusset: Place two stitch markers between the first and second stitches of the round. You will create the thumb stitches between these two markers. To do this, work the next round of the Main Chart until you reach the first of these markers. Work the next row of the Right Thumb Chart between the markers. Work through the Right Thumb Chart in this fashion once. You will have a total of 36 [38, 40, 48, 53, 56] stitches. Left thumb gusset: Place two stitch markers between stitches 1 and 2 [2 and 3, 3 and 4, 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4]. You will create the thumb stitches between these two markers. To do this, work the first 1 [2, 3, 1, 2, 3] stitches of the Main Chart. Work the next row of the Left Thumb Chart between the markers. Work the rest of the round following the Main Chart. Work through the Left Thumb Chart in this fashion once. You will have a total of 36 [38, 40, 48, 53, 56] stitches.

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Hand, Part 1: Work in pattern as established (following the Main Chart for the hand and working in ribbing as established for the thumb) until the mitt reaches the middle of your palm.

Stitch Key

Hand, Part 2: Remove the stitch markers you used to indicate the thumb stitches and set those 12 [12, 12, 12, 14, 14] stitches aside on a spare needle or length of scrap yarn. You will have a total of 24 [26, 28, 36, 39, 42] stitches on your active needles and 12 [12, 12, 12, 14, 14] stitches set aside. Continue following the Main Chart until mitt reaches the base of your fingers. Stop after completing row 8 or 16 of the Main Chart. Cast off loosely. Thumb: Divide the thumb stitches across two needles. Pick up 4 stitches to bridge the gap between the first and last of the thumb stitches. You will have 16 [16, 16, 16, 18, 18] stitches. Work in ktbl1, p1 as established until the thumb reaches the desired length. Finishing: Cast off loosely. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

Main Chart Chart Notes: For the right mitt, use the Main Chart as normal. For the left mitt, start following the Main Chart on row 9 (instead of row 1). The shaded stitches are used to adjust sizing. On all charts, work only the unshaded stitches for the 24and 36-stitch sizes. Work the unshaded stitches and the light gray stitches for the 26- and 39-stitch sizes. Work all stitches for the 28- and 42-stitch sizes.

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Right Thumb Chart

Left Thumb Chart

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Sources

Conferva villosa projects use Quince & Co. yarns – quinceandco.com. The socks are made with Finch (221 yards per skein) in Carrie's Yellow. The hat is made with Lark (134 yards per skein) in Split Pea. Fucus asparagoides projects use Plucky Knitter yarns – thepluckyknitter.com. The socks are made with Plucky Feet (425 yards per skien) in Spice of Life. The shawl is made with Plucky Single (430 yards per skein) in Joe Banks. The shawl pin is by Plover Designs – ploverdesigns.com. Planorbis corneus projects use String Theory yarns – stringtheoryyarn.com. The socks are made with Bluestocking (420 yards per skein) in Mead. The shawl is made with Caper Aran (200 yards per skein) in Shale. The shawl pin is by Plover Designs – ploverdesigns.com.

(420 yards per skein) in Bitter. The mitts are made with Smooshy (450 yards per skein) in Pansy Golightly.

Bunodes crassicornis projects use Malabrigo yarns – malabrigoyarn.com. The socks are made with Arroyo (335 yards per skein) in English Rose. The hat is made with Rios (210 yards per skein) in Sunset. Zostera marina projects use Sweet Georgia yarns – sweetgeorgiayarns.com. The socks are made with BFL Sock (400 yards per skein) in Pistachio. The mitts are made with Merino Silk Aran (185 yards per skein) in China Doll. All charts created with StitchMastery Knitting Chart Editor – stitchmastery.com. Photos, book, and cover design by Zoë Lonergan – zoelonergan.com.

Limneus stagnalis prjoects use Blue Moon Fiber Arts yarns – bluemoonfiberarts.com. The socks are made with Socks that Rock Mediumweight (405 yards per skein) in Saffron Surprise. The cowl is made with Marine Silk Sport (324 yards per skein) in Spores.

Serpula contortuplicata projects use Shibui yarns – shibuiknits.com. The socks are made with Staccato (191 yards per skein) in Raspberry. The mitts are made with Silk Cloud (330 yards per skein) in Ash. Pelagia noctiluca projects use Lorna's Laces yarns – lornaslaces.net. The socks are made with Shepherd Sock (430 yards per skein) in Satsuma. The hat is made with Pearl (220 yards per skein) in The Bean. Padina pavonia projects use Dream in Color yarns – dreamincoloryarn.com. The socks are made with Everlasting Sock

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