Spain: The Cookbook 0714872474

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• BOOK

Prefaces _________________

_

Recipes Appetizers________________ Cold platesugges1ions____________ Fneddishes.s.wory tartlets little turnoversandmousses__ Sauces _________________ S1ewsa ndsoups______________ Rice.legumespotatoesandpasta ______ Vege1ab tesandmushrooms___________ Eggs. flansandsouffles____________ Fishandshellfish______________

Meat________________

Poultry________________ Game________________ Variety me.ats _______________ Desserts ,_________________ Menusfromcelebrated Spanishchefs_________ Cookinginformat,on ______________

Directory_________________

Index _________________

6

10 34 42 64 96 134 250 386 ?36 568 670

no 758 i96 916 942 9?7 948

rKEfACES

From the Publisher The popularity of Spanlsh food hasgrov,n exponentially through· out the world during the past decade. Tapas bars and Spanish restaurants are openingin everyma1or city and. thanks to the grow• ing reputations of the country's many finechefs. including Ferran Adncl of ti 8ulli and others. gastronom.c attention has been v11 ell and truly turned on the food of contemporary Spain. As The A'ev1 Yolt Times recently reported Spanlsh culsine currently enjoys a reputation for innovation and creativity pre,•iously only awardedto thefood of i rance However. the imaginatrve recipes being developed by Spain's le.ad 1ng chefs are desprtetheir innovaton. based on the solid traditions of Spanlsh food. which is unpretentious. healthy, simple and delicious As differentcultures settled in variousparts of Spain over the ages. eachbrought their own contributionto the de\'elopment of Its cuisine TheGreeks introducedthe quintessententia l Spanish ingre· dient oli\'e od v,hile seasonings. spicesand the many combinations of me.atand fruit that v,·e associatetoday with Spanish food are a legacy of the Moors. ThedfVerseculturesof thecountry·s history can be clearly tracedthroughthe \'Jriety andcombinationof ingredients in its dishes the mostfamousof which is the surprisingmarriageoi fish andmeatin the country s nat,onal dish. paella. Spain: The Cookbook waswntten by Simone Ortega who wrote about food for more than fifty years. and is the foremostauthorit y on traditional Spanlsh cooking. It hasbeen Spain's favonte cookery book sinceits first publicat.1 on O\'er thirty years ago. wrth millions of copies now sold. o,·er the years. Simone hasbeen joined by her daughter Ines. alsoa respecte d food writer. andtogether. they have revisedandupdatedthe rea:pesto reflectmodern methods without losingthe trad,t.onal characterof Spanish food. Thls first edibon in English has beenfurther adapted for the ing lish·spe.aking market.addmg explanationandintroduction to specia· list ingredients and particular techniques of cooking The great Spanish illustrator Javier Mariscal has filled the pagesof Spain: The Cookbook with hundredsof specially createdcolorful and evocative

drawings depocting the food and atmosphere of Spain. and the recipesare alsoaccompaniedby more than 100 colorphotographs showing the completeddishes WithSpain:TheCookbookonyourtable.youwillquietly learntolo\'e a cuisinethat is filled with variety subtlety and fla,·or. 8uenprovecho!

from the authors I am confident that thls book hashelpedto imprO\'e the way people in Spain eat rt hasmade te.aming to cook easier for thosewho don·t have much ti me to spend in the kitchen: the recipesare tasty and simple. and my readers havetold me O\'er the years that I ha\•e included cle.ar and precis.eexplanations that ens.u re my recipes always work. even in the hands.of the mostinexpenencedof cooks. i achrecipe is numbered and the book is fully indexed,usmg the recipenumbers to direct you quicklyand easily to Chedish you are looking for You will alsoseethat the recipesdo not have grandio.se titlesbut. instead. I have gi\'en them names that describe the main ingredients in the dish-although there are just oneor two excep· ti ons to this rule. when I have useda nameby which a dish1s Yiidely recognized suchasgazpacho fi nally I hopethat this Enghsh edition wit encouragea hostof new readers to grab their pans wrthincreasing enthus.:lsm. Simone Ortega Myfamily hasalways regarded threethingsasimportant in our li\'es reading. wribngand cooking I spent ye.ars watchingmy mother cook and later asI grew up. I started to help her in the kitchen. Asa result of constant nagging from her fnends. my mother was eventually p:ersuadedto collect her recipes together into a book My father. being a publlsher. then decided to pubhsh ttus JS 1080Rec-etas de Cocina. a title that was taken from the number oi reapesthat the book contained We never for a moment imagined that o,·er the course of a little more than 3 decades this bookwould becomea cookery clas.sicand that we would soonbe ce'ebrating millionsof copiessold! l ater. as I began writi ng and publishing my own cookery books. my mother began to ask me to updateor modify recipeswit h her so thatthey were more in tune with contemporary stylesof cooking and e.at .ng Sheand I worked together to ensure that this book is as relevant to contemporary lifestyfes as 1t was when it was first publlshed, over time. coolunghabits may ha\'e changedbut this book remains

fresh.It,s alwa~up-to-llate alwa~acces.si ll!e.and,ts l),lgescontlm dishesthatcanbe madesucces.s fully inany homeandby anycook. thus ensuringthebook's continuingsuccess_Its aimhasne\'erchanged: to offer thebestof Sparush cUL sine in a simpleand acces.s .b!eway.while ma111 tail'ling an international and contemp orary outlook. This v,as SimoneOrtega·sgreatsecretwhenshecreated herclassicfirstedition. andI amproud to folowin herfootsteps . InesOrtega

From Ferran Adria I havegreatpleasurein Yintingaprefaceto this dass,ccookerybook. whichwaswritten by oneof the first peopte to raisefoodand cooks to their rightful placesin society. 1080Rec-et.as de Cocma hasnow beentranslatedinto English Yiith Simone'sdaughte r Ineshelping to updateand re\'ise its reccpes ThisEnglishedit.on prO\'es that. for SimoneOrtega, cookinghasno borders Thefirst time Simone cameto El Bulli. I wa.svery interestedto knowwhat she thoughtof my food, andI waspleasedwhen I realized that she instinctively understood and e11t oyed what v,·e do in our restaurant Simone wasa sens,tive and inturtrve woman. traditional but at the samet.mee\'OMionary in heroutlook. She hadaninstinc· ti\'e feel for creatingnew fla\'ors. demonstrating that she hadthe intuitionnecessa ry to be a greatcook. In this book SimoneandInesoffer us a wealthof gastronomic experienceand wisdomand it will quickJytransport you to the heart of Spam This is a timelessbook When you read 1t yousuddenly reallze the gloriesof the food in front of you thosethat.until now. you have not fully appreciated. Ours is a splendidculsine. born out of the pleasure of eating. and1t is also one that is perfect for tho.sewhohavelittle time to cook, but who don t want togNe up the enjoyment of eatingwell and, thus of feedingtheir souls as well as their stomachs In this book,we travel ona deliciousjourney through 1080recipes with Simone and rnes. each recipe demonstrating its two authors' ded1cat10n to a job well done and their passion for creativity and good food Onethousand andeighty thank yous!

Olives

Howto preserve Washtheoli\·esthoroughly.put themintocontainers. andaddenough waterto coverthem. Addsalt to taste. a fe'Nsprigsof savory.some lemon nnd. and a few clo\·esof unpee l edgarlic. leave the olives in this mixturetor a few days before e.Jbng them.

A dressingfor blackolives Slark oli\·espreser\'edin brine canbeeatenastheyare or dressed with a little paprika onion. andoliVe oil.

1

Pastry for tartlets UASAQUESRAOA PARATAR:TALETAS

• 2¼cups,all•purpose flour. plusextra for dusting

• 1/2teaspoonsalt • generous1/:cupbutter.

margarine,or lard.ora mixture ot equalq11c1ntities of anytwo ot these. plusextrafor greasing

(optional) · 2 teaspoonspeaootoil. ~s extrafo, greasircg (optional) • 1 egg.lightlybeaten Ma•es20

Sift the flour into a largebowl.add the s.alt.and mix. lift.ng up the flour witha spoonand letting it fal backinto the bowl to aerate it Addthe fat. oil. and egg and quickly mix together wrth your finger· tips until the m1xture resemblesbre.adcrumbs.GraduaUyaddabout ¾ cupwater.a littleat a time andltghtlymix.with yourhandstoform a smooth doughthat comesawayfrom the sidesof the bowl. {The exactquantityof waterrequired dependson the typeof flour) Leave theball of doughin thebowl.CO\'er withacleandlshtowel,andlet rest in a coolplacefor 30 minutes.Preheatthe oven to 400'f and grease 20 tartlet pans.I½-inchesin diameter. withbutter or oi . (Youcould a•souseboat-shaped barquettepans.}Rollout the doughon a ~htly flouredsurfaceuntil it is quitethin (about!! inch}.Cutout 20 rounds with a 1½-·inchfluted cutter. re-rolling the doughasnecessary . and useto line the preparedpans. Pnck the baseof eachwith a fork. line with waxedpaper. and fill with pie weightsor dried be.ans.Sake for l5 minutes. Removethepaperandweights. returnthe tartl etsto the oven. and bakefor 5 minutesmore.until goldenbrown Thls process of pre-cookingpastry beforeaddingthe filling1scalled'bakingbi nd', and is done to prevent a wet filling causingthe pastry to go soggy. Transferthe tartlets to wire racksandlet cool completelyIf youare not usingthemimmediate l y store in anairtight contarner.

2

Frenchpastry for tartlets MASAFRANCESA PARATAIITALETAS

• 1/,Ol.l'loe (a little less than ¼targe cake)freshyeast • 3 tablespoonslukewarm milk

• 2 egg yolks • scant ¼cup (a little lessthan 1stick) butter. ~s extra for g,easircg

• 2¼cupsalt-purpose flour. plus extra f o, d~ting

• pinch of salt

f.ti,esl'S

3

Mashtheyeastwiththenulkina cupor smallbowluntilsmooth then let stand for about 10 minutes. until the mixture is foamy Transfer the yeastmixturetoa mLXI ng bowlandaddthe eggyolksandbutter Sift in the flour .:t'lds.altandmixwith yourhands Rollout the dough on a lightly flouredsurfaceuntil very thin (about3mm/1Airch). Cut out 25rounds wrth a l\t-inch fluted cutter re·rollng the dough as necessary.Gre.JSe 25 tNtlet pans, 1 ½ inches,with butter and line with thedoughrounds.CO\'erwith a cleandishtowel. andletrise for 30 minutes.Preheatthe ovento 400°i. Pritt thebased the tJrtlets with a fork. then line e.Jchof the tartlets wrthwaxedpaper .:ltd fill withpie weightsor dned beans. Transferto the o,•enandbakeblind for 15minutes RemO\'e the paper and weights.returnthe tartlets.to the oven.andbakefor 5 minutes.more.until goldenbrown Transfe r the tartlets to wire racksand let them cool completelyOncecold. they are readyto use ff not us ng immediately,you can store the tartlets in an art,ght container.

Muffinswith choppedham MUFflNSCONJAMONPICADO

• 10 muffins

• 2 ouncesbutter.softened • 5 ouncescuredham.chopped

Cut the muffinsintothirds.Spreadthemwrtha little softenedbutter and top with choppedcuredham. Use the bat+:of a spoonto press the hamdov;nto preventrt falhng off the muffinwhen1t is pickedup.

Ma,es30

4

Muffinswith foie gras andgelatin MUFFINS CONFOIE-GRAS YGELAT HA

• 10 muffins

• 3 ½ ouncesfreshor caMed foiegraspati

• set gelatin(see recipe 42).

metyGllopped Ma•es'.:.O

Cut the muffins into thirds and spreadgenerously with fresh or canned foie gras.pate. Coverwith the choppedgelatinand press downwith the backof a spoonto pre\'entthe gelatin falhng off the muffinwhenit ls pickedup

5

Little hamturnovers EMPANAOil..LAS OEJAMON

• l lJlantity PastryforTumovers (seerecipe43) • 7ouncesc..-edham.choppe:tureamongthe mushroomcaps and return them to the O\'en for about30 minutes If the topshave not lightlybrowned placethe mushroomsundera preheatedbroiler for the last IOminutes Serve immediately.straightfrom the dish.

21

Russian salad ENSALAO LLARUSA

• 9 ouncespotatoes. dioed and boiled

• 1 pound2 ouncescarrots.

Oram the \'egetables.transfer to a bowl and allow to cool. Add the mayonnaise andtoss to combine thoroughl y Refngerateuntil ready

to use

dioed and boiled

• 2 ¼ poundsfresh peas. boiled • 7ounoesClassicMayoMaise (see recipe105)

5e...,-es6

t,.ote The basefor this salad is a thidt mayOMaise. which is mixed with a combination of vegetablesandthe abovels the da.ss,cvers on Oelicious variationsinclude adding piecesof tart apple (such as Granny Sm,th or Fuji), walnut or celery to the \'egetables Cooked. p:eeled shrimp may alsobe added and give an exquisite flavor to a simple Russ·ansalad

22

Watercresssalad ENSALAOILLAOE SERROS

· 1 pound2 ouncespotatoes. diced

· 1 pound2 ouncestart apples. such~ GraMy Smith« Fuji

• 9oun~celery .sli~ • 2 buncheswatercress,leaves

Cookthe potato in saltedwatertor 15-20 minutes. until tender but still firm to the bite Drainand let cool completely.Whenthe potato is cold. peel coreanddice the applesthen mi>:wrththepotato Add theceleryand watercress.Stirin the mayonnarse. cover.andchillin therefrigerator for at least1hour.Servethe saladin a largebowl.or in indMdualtartfet casesfor a specia l occasion.

pickedand coarselychopped • 7 ouncesThick Mayoona~e

(see recipe106)

• 2 quantitiestartletcases (see recipe1).optional

se,.,,-es6

23

Friedcanapes CANAPtSFRITOS

• scant1/r cup milk • 6 tablespoons(1.4stick) butter . plus extra for spreading , 1A cupall-purposeflour

• ½ cup gratedgruyerecheese

• legg • 5 slicesof bread

• oliveoil. fOJfrying • salt and pepper Ma•eslO

24

Putthe mdk andbutter in a smallpan se.a.son andbring to a boil. Addthe flour andcook.stirring constantlyto pre\·entlumps When themixtureis thict andsmooth, removethepanfrom theheatand let coolslightly thenstir inthe gruyere let cool untilonly just warm. thenstir in theegguntil incorporatedSe.a.son to taste Spreadthe shces of breadw,th a little butter and a thick layerof the cheese mixture Cut off the crusts andcut e.ach shcediagonallyto formtwo tnangles.Heatthe od in a heavyslullet.Addseveralbre.adtriang· les. toppingsidesdo'Nn . andfry until goldenbrown.Remo ve with a spatula andtransferto a warmovenwhile you cookthe remainmg tnangles.Serve hot

Hot cheeseand mayonnaise canapes CANAPtSOE\,IAYONESA YQUESO. CALlEKTES

• 5 slioesof bread,eachcut into

4x1½ inchroundsandtoasted • 1quantityThick Mayonnaise (see recipe106) • 4 ouncesgrat~ cheese

• 2onioM Ma•:!$20

Preheatthe oven to 350cf. Mix the mayonnaisewith the grated

cheminabowlSpread themixturegenerously ontiletoasted bread rounds reserving a little Slicethe centersof theonionsverythinly and SPfinklethemoverthe toasts.Topeachtoastwitha smallpatof thereservedcheesemixture. Placethe toastson a bakingsheetand bakefor a fewminutes..until theyaregoldenbro'Nn.(Watchcarefully astheyburn \·eryeasily. ) Servehot

25

Cheese . tomato.and baconcanapes CAMAPES DEQUESO. TOMATE YaACON

• 5 slioesot bread.eachcut Wlt,o 4 x 1½ inch roundsandtoasted • 4 tablespoons(½ stick) butter

• 3 ½ ouncescheesetriangles. si ced. or other spceadable mild cheese

Preheat the O\'en to 400~F Spread the bread rounds lightly and evenly with a lit tle softenedbutter. Placea sliceof cheeseon each.

thenadd a slice of tomatoPlacea shceof bacon (or half a slice if the slicesare \'ery long)doubled over ont op of each.Putthe canap eson a baking sheetand bakefor about15minutes. until the cheesehas metted andthe bacon tScrisp Serve hot

• 3 ripetomatoes.thiNy sic ed

· 10 slicesbacon. halved widthways Ma•.esW

26

Soft cheeseand paprika canapes CAMAPES DEQUESO BLANDO YP!\!ENTON

• 5 slioesot bread.eachcut into 4 x 1½ inch roundsandtoasted

• 3 ½ ouncesricotta.or othersoft

wtaite cheese

Preheatthe oven to 350tf Spread the toasted breadrounds with a generous layer of ncotta Sprinkleeach one with a little paprika. then placeon a bakingsheet.and bakefor about5 minutes. until the cheesehasmelted.

• pinch of pa,prika Ma,:esW

27

Soft cheesesandwiches EMPAREOAOOS DEQUESO BLANDO

• 3½ ouncesriootta • 3 ½ ouncesmascarpone • 2 tablespoons heavycream.

or umweetened evaporatedmi k • 1 teaspoonfinely choppedchivn

or shalot or scal ion • 10 sliceswhite bread.

«~ts remowd • 10slicesryebread. «~ts remowd Ma,:esW

Seattogether the cheesesunt,I cornb,ned. then beatin the creamor unsweetene d evaporatedmilk. Stir in the chNes shallot. or sCJllion Spreadthe mixture on the slicesof white breadJnd top each with a slice of rye bread Cut e.achs.and w,ch diagona lly in half to form two triang!es. They may bekept in the refn,ge rator for a short time

28

Bakedcheesesticks PAUTOSOE QUESO ALHORNO

lesst hanl stick) butter

Preheatthe oven to 400tf Pvt the butterin a panandmeltit over lowheat but do not let rt bro\\n, then remove the pan fromthe

cup all-purpose flour

he.at S!ir in the ftour. then stir in the Parmesan . Seasonwith salt d

• Scant ¼o.ip (a little , 11,

• generouslcupgrated

Parmesancheese • 1 cup breadcrumbs

• salt (optional) Ma•esa,oui20

29

necessa ry.Pourthebre.ad crumbsintoasha'lowdrshspread1ngthem out with a spoon. Shapescoopsof the cheesemixture into long fat stcks aboutthe SlZeof yourlittle finger.Rollthecheesesticksin the breadcrumbsandplaceon a bakingsheet.Sake for 8-10 minutes. until golden brown.Carefully transferthecheesest cksto a wirerack (theywill bre.ake.as tly) andlet coolcompletelybeforeserving.

Friedgruyere cheese FRITOS OEQUESO GRUY[RE

• 5ouncesgruyerecheese • 1½ cups milk

• all-purposeflour.for dustii g • 1 egg.lightlybeaten • 1 cup breadcrumbs

• peanut«sunfloweroil. f or deep frying

Cut thegruyereinto ½x ¾ x l ;'4-inchpieces.Placein a bowl. addthe milkandlet soakfor 2 hours.Drainthe cheeseandpatdrywrthpaper towel. Roll eachpieceoi cheeselightly in the flour. thenthe beaten egg, and finally in the breadcrumbs.He.atthe oil in a deep-fryeror deepski let to 350-3i5 ~For until a cubeof day-oldbreadbrownsin 30 secondsAddthe cheesepieces, in batches,andcookfor about 2 minutes. until golden.Drain wellands.e rve immediately

Ma•es20

30

Friedgruyere cheeseandbacon FRITOS OEQUESO GRUY[RE Y BACON

• 7ouncesgf'UY"Iecheese

• 5 slicesthin rindlessbacon

• 2-J tablespoonsoil

Ma•esa,ool:5

Cut the cheeseinto stripsabout½ inch thict anda little longerthan the shorter sideof the ttun slicesof bacon.If necessarycut off the baconrind with kitchenscissorsanddiscard thencut the shcesin half.Placea pieceof cheeseon eachhalf, roll up the bacon,andse· cure1t witha woodentoothpick.Heat 2-3 tablespoonsoil ina skillet Addthebaconrollsandcook, turrung frequentJy,for 10- 15minutes, until the baconis brownedand cookedthrough.Drain wellandser\'e

immediately leav111g thetoothpicks inplace

31

Chouxpuffs with Roquefortor foie gras PETITS-CHOUXAL ROQUEFORT O Al FOIE•GRAS

Oloux pastry: • P.tcupsmilk • 4 tablespoons(½ stick) butter.

plusextra for greasing

Pourthe nulk into a pan and add the butter. lard or ,•egetJbleshort· ening. anda pinchof salt. MeltO\'erlow heat.stir the mixture wrtha woodenspoon andbnng to a bod Immediately pour in all the flour and cook. stirring constantly. for 3 minutes Removethe pan from

• ¼ cup lard orwflite,ngttable

the heat andlet cool.Meanwhile. preheat the oven to 35o~cLight·

shortening • PAcupsall-purposeflour

ly greaseone or two bak.1 ng sheetswith butter_Whenthe dough is

• 3 eggs • 2 eggwtlites

• salt fillillg: • 3½ ouncesfoiegrasp.atimixed w;th 4 tablespooM lightly

wtaipped creamor 3 ½ ounces Roquefortcheesemixedwith

ne.artycoo!ed.beatin the eggs oneJt a time. makingsure thateach one hasbeen fully incorporatedbeforeaddingthe next Whiskthe eggwhitesin a clean. dry bowlunti they form soft peaks.then fold them into the mixture.Usinga teaspoon.makesmall moundsof the m.1 x-ture on the preparedbakingsheet spacingthem well apart as theyspreadduringcooking Bakefor 8-10 minutes. unt.il puffedup andgoldenbrown.Transferto wire racksand let cool Slit the puffs on onesidewrth lotchenscissorsand openthem with yourringers Chooseyour preferredfili ng. mix the ingredients.then usea small spoonto fill thepuffs withthe filling.

3½ ounoessoftenedbutter

Ma,esap:mx.65

32

CelerywithRoquefort APIOCONROQUEFORT

• 1 headce:lef)'.

trimmedaodwashed • 2 ouncesRoquefortcheese • 2 ouncesbutter.softened Ma•esap:mx.25

Cut the celery stalks into l ¼·inchlengths.Seat the Roquefortand butter in a bowl fill e.achpieceof celery wrththe mD:ture spre.acling rt out e,·enly Put the filledcelery on a plate. CO\'er . and chi l in the refrigeratorfor at leastl hour beforeserving.

33

Frieddateandbaconrolls PNCHOSOEOAJ1-.£S Y SACON FRITOS

· 20drieddates • 20 slicesthinrindless bac:01t • 2-J tablespoonspe.anut oil

Ma•es20

34

Slit the datesalongthe longestsidesand carefullyremoveand dis· card the prts.Wrapeach datein a sliceof bacon Heat the oil in a skillet.addthe baconroUs. and cook, turningoccasonally for about 10minutes. until the baconis cookedthrough andlightly browned. Drainwelland serveimmediately.

Prunesstuffed with Roquefort.raisins. andpinenuts CIRUELAS REL1..ENAS OEROQUEFORl PA.SAS YPl~NES

• 3 ½ ounoesRoquefortcheese · 12pine oots

Crumble the Roquefort into a bowland mashlightly with a fork Add

• scant ¼ cup ra~ins

Openthe caVY t es of the prunes v,ith your fingersand use a small spoonto fillthe pruneswith the Roquefortpaste.Closethe prunes and secureWith woodentoothpicts Put the pruneson a plate cover. and chill in the refngeratorforat le.Jst2 hoursbeforeserVing

• 1 tablespoonwinefrom Malaga

or sWHtsherry • 4 t.ablespoMlight cream

thepinenuts raisins. wineorsherry.and creamand mixtoa paste

· 12reasodawate,

• 'MY

smal amountof baking

powder@lstenoughto ooverthe ijp of a knife)

• pindl ofsalt

• pinch of powderedsaffron

5e...,-es!

Thls battercanbe usedfor brains. squid, onions.etc Mix all the in· gredientsto forma thickbatter Shapeintofntters addyourchosen filhngandcookasdescribed in recipe58

61

Cheesefritters with tomato sauce 81.i~LEtOS OEQUESO CONSALSA OETOM ATE.

• 2 tablespoons butter • 1 cupall-purposeflour

. 4eggs • l ¼cupsgrat edgruyerecheese

• vegetableoil. for deep-frying

• l lJlantityClassicTomatoSauce (seerecipe73) · salt 5e...,-es6

Pourl ½cups waterinto a pan. addthe butterand a pinchof salt.and heatgently until the fat hasmelted Bringto a boil. pour in the flour. and st.r \'igorously YtT th a wooden spoon until the mo:ture comes together and tea\·esthe sidesoi the pan. RemO \'e the pan from the heat and stir for about 5 minutes. until the m1xture is cool. Stir in the eggs(unbeaten). one at a time. making sure each one is fully incorporated beforeadding the next Stir in the gruyere andlet the mixture standfor 2 hours. Heat theod in a largedeeppan. While rt is still heating scoop up a little of the cheesemLX ture on a teaspoon and useyour fingerto push1t off the spoon intothe oil.ft should smk to the baseof the pan. Repeatthe process but don·t add too many fritters. to the pan at the samet,me as they expand considerably duringcooking and it is better to f ry themwith plenty of space. Asthe oil heatsup. the fritters.will begm to rise to the surface When they are golden brown remo\'e themfrom the od with a slotted spoonand placethem in a largecolandersetO\'er a bakingdishin a warm O\'en until all the fntters are fned Remove the panfrom theheat between each batchof fntters to let the oil cooluntil it is just warm Then re· peat the cookingprocessagain. Ser\'e the fntters in a napkin·lined dishand offer the warmedtomato sauceseparately.

62

Croquett es C~OQUai\S

• 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 3 tablespoonsbutter • 4 tablespoonsalt-purposefloor

• 3 cups,milk • 2 eggs • 3 cups,btead crumbs • vegetableoil. ford eep.-frying • salt • fresh «deep-fried parsley sprigs(see r~ipe 918).optiooal

fill i~ • 1 pound2 ouncescooked,

peelKianddeveiMCI shriq,or

12ouncescookedwfli e fish. suchashakeor 2 choppedhard•

oookKIeggsor ~nerous 1cup dioedSenanohamor prosciutto or 1dicedcookedboneless

chickenbreasthaHorl 1/icups

dioedleftewerroastchicten Se",-esC

Makea bechamels.auceby heatingthe sunfloweroil in a pan Add the butter and whenrt h:ls melted stir in the flour with a wooden spoon.Graduallystir in the milk. a little at a time. andcook st.1 rrin,g constantly . until thebechamelsauceth.ckens.Sea.son with salt and stir in yourchosen filling thenspreadthe m.1x ture out in a largedish to coolfor at least2 hours Usmgtwo tablespoons . shape scoopsof the rraxture intocroquettes.Firashformingthe croquetteswith your hands.Beatthe eggsin a shallowdish.Pour the breadcrumbsinto anothershallowdish.Roll eachcroquette lightlyin the breadcrumbs. then in the beatenegg andfinallyin thebreadcrumbsagain. mak.1 ng sure that eachone is e\'enly covered If the croquettesare being preparedin advance. CO\' er them with a dampdishtowel to prevent them drying out He.atthe vegetableoi in a deep-fryer or deeppan to350-375 ' f or until a cubeof day-old breadbrowns in 30 seconds Addthe croquettes.in batchesof aboutsix at a tune. and cookunt,I crisp andgolden brown Uslllg a slotted spoon transfer them to a largecolander setover a bakingdish and placein a warmO\'enuntil all the croquetteshave beencooked.Serve i'nmed1ately on a c:ish garnishedwrthsprigsof freshor deep·fnedparsley

63

Cheeseandeggcroquett es CliOQUETAS o:::QLIESO RALLAOOYHU:::vo

• 2 tablespoons sunfloweroil .4cup(½ stick) butter

, 1

• 4 t.ablespoM all-purpose flour

Make a thickbeehamelsauce asdescribedin recipe77.RemO \'e the pan from theheatJndletcoo1slightly Stirin theeggs(unbeaten ) one at a time. makingsureeach oneis fully incorporatedbefore adding

• 3 1A CUI)$, milk

thenext Stir in the gru~·ere. Spread the mo:ture outin a largedishto

· 2 eggs

coolfor at least2 hours then proceed asdirectedin recipe62.

· 11/rcups,gratedgruyer e cheese

5e...,-es6

64

Salt cod andpotato croquettes C!iOQUETAS OEP.t;TATP. Y8,6,CHJ.O

• 9 ouncessalt cod fillet • 3¼pounthpotatoes

• 1- 2 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 1 clovegarlic • 2 eggs.separated • all-purposeflow. for dustSlg

• vegetableoil. for deep.-fry.'lg

• l lJlantityClassicTomatoSauce (seerecipe73) · salt Se".-es6

tf the salt cod is dried. placeit in a bowl. addwater to cover. and let soak for about 2 hours without changing thewater. then drain. If i1is vacuum packed. this is not necessary Put the potatoes(unpeeled) and cod in a panandaddenough waterto cover generousl y. Bnng to a boil thenfower thehe.at and s,mmer forabout30 minutes. until the potatoesare tender. Oran well.Peelthepotatoes.placein a bowl and mash well. Litt out the cod wrtha fishsliceand remO \'e any remaining skin and bones. then finely flakethe flesh with your fingersandadd to the mashed potato. Heatthe olive oil in a small pan.Addthegarlic and cook. stirringfrequently. until lightly browned Transfer thegartic and a pinchof salt to a nu:ni·food processorandprocessbnefly. or placein a mortar and pound.Stir the garhc mixture into the mashed potato Beatin the eggyolks. oneat a time. making surethat eachis fullyincorporatedbeforeadding the next. Whisk the eggwhrteswith a pinchoi salt in a clean. dry bowl unti l soft peaks form.f old the egg whrtes.into the mashed potato Shape the mi>:ture ll to croquettes.

with your hands and roll igh tly in ftour Heat the \'egetable oil in a deep-fryer or deep pan to 350 - 375;F or until a rubeof day-old bread browns in 30 seconds.Add the croquettes. in batchesif necessa ry. andcookuntilcnspandgoldenbrov;nUsinga slotted spoon, transfer themto a large colander setm•er a baking dish and placein a warm

O\'enuntil all tilecroquetteshavebeenrookedOra mwellandserve immediate l y. offeringChetomato sauceseparately

65

Portuguese salt cod fritters 8i.1~LLOSOEBACALAO PO~TUGIJ:SES

· 1½ pounth salt cod

Put thes.altcodin a bowl.addwaterto cover.and letsoak for a few

• 3¼pound.spot.atoes

hours.changingthe wateronly once. then drain. Put the potatoes (unp:eeled ) and cod in a panandaddenoughwaterto covergener· ously Bringtoa boi. thentowerthe heat.andsU11m er for 30 minutes.

• 1clovegarlic. finelychopped • 1 teaspoonfinelychopped fresh parsley

• 3 eggyolks • wgetableoil for di?ep-frying • !quantity ClassicTomatoSauce

(see recipe73).optional Se",-esC

untilthepotatoesaretender Drain wel . Peelthe potatoes.placein a bowl. and mashwell lift out the cod with a slottedspatula and remo\'eany remainingskin and bones. then finelyflake the flesh with yourfingersAdd to the mashedpotato then st.r in the garlic andparsley.Seatin the eggyolks.oneat at .me.makingsurethat each1s.incorporatedbeforeaddingthe next. He.atthe\'egetableoil in a deep-fryeror deeppan to 350-375°F or until a cube of day-old breadbrownsin 30 s.econdsOroptablespoonsoi the fish mo:ture into the hot 011andcookuntil crisp andgoldenbroYin.Youwill need todothis in batchesRemove witha slottedspoon. trans.ferto a large colandersetover a bakingpan andplacein a warmO\'en until all the fritters havebeencookedServe the fritters.hot.offering the tomato sauceseparately . d using

66

Mushroomtart TARTA OECHAVPl~ONES

Pasby:

• 1¾ cups,al •puf"PO$e flour. plusextrafor dusting • 61/2t.ablespoMbutter.

cut intosmallpieces. plusextra fOJgreasing

· 1 egg.sepauted • 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil

· salt Fili ng:

• 1 pou!Kh2 ouncescremini rooshrooms. thickly slioed • 3 tablespoonsbutter

• fewdrops of lemonjuice • 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil

• 1 heapingtablespoon all-purp~e flow

· l¼cups nilk • 1 egg yolk

· salt Se".-es6-8

Firs1make the pastry dough as described in recipe 56. usingthe

eggyolk but reservingthewhite. let rest in a cool placeforat least 2 hours. Preheatthe ovento 350~F Greasewrth butter a quichepan with a remo,·eabte ba.se. !Oinchesin diameterandabout 1½inches deep Roll out the dough to a roundon a lightly floured surface. lift the dough on the rolling pin into the prepared pan andpress dov;n with your fingersto make sure it is even over the base. Trimthe ex• cessdough with a sharp knifeandlrghtly pnck the bas.eall O\'er with a fo~. Lightly whisk the egg Ythite in a clean. dry bowl until frothy but not stiff. Blush O\'er the ins;de of the piecrust. Bake for about 25 minutes. until firm and goldenbrown MeanYthile. put the mush· rooms in a pan, add 1 tablespoon of the butter and the lemon jUice. and season lightly with salt. CO\'er andcook over low he.at for about 6 minutes Make a bechame l sauceby melting the remainingbutter with the oil in anotherpan.St.r in theflour.thengraduallyYthLsk in the milk. a litt'e at a tune. Seasonwith salt andcook, stirringconstantly. for about 6 minutes b.ghtly beat the egg yolk in a heatproof bowl. then VE'lY carefully stir in the bechamel sauce. a little at a time to pre\'ent ,t separating.Pour themixture backinto thepanandstir well beforeadding thecookedmushrooms. When thepastry caseisgolden broYtn,remove from the ovenand turn out onto a s.e rving dish Fill with the mushroomand bechame l mixture andserve immediately.

67

Greenasparagusandbechameltart TAfiTAOE BECH.AMEL Y ESP,6,liRJ.GOS VERDES

Pastry: • 1'.4cups,all•purpose flour.

plusextra for dustiig • 6½ tablespooMOOtter, cut intosmallpieces. plusextra for greasing • 1 tablespoon pe.anut oil

· legg yolk • salt

fi lli~ • 2¼cups nilk • 1 heaping tablespoon cornstarch

• scantl o.ip gratedgru~re cheese • 3 eggs, ljgtltty beaten

• ¼buncholgreenaspal"38Us .

oookKIand cut Wlto1¼-inch

pieces • salt Se...,esC-8

first makethe pastry doughaccording to the directionsin recipe

56. let rest in a coolplaceforat le.ast2 hours Preheatthe oven to 350'F.Greasewithbuttera quichepanwitha removeable ba.se. U inchesin diameterandabout1½inchesdeep.Rollout the dough to a roundon a lightJyflouredsurface.lift the doughon theroUing pin into the preparedpan andpressdownwrthyour fingersto make sure rt is evenoverthe base inm the excessdoughw,th a sharp kn.-feand lightly prick the baseall over with a fork. Bakefor about 15minutes. until set but not browned Mean'Nhile . makethe filling Pourthe milk into a panandbring to just belowthe boilingpoint.Add the com-starchandcook. stirringconstantly,for 3 minutes Remove the pan from the he.atand stir in nearlyall the gruyere. le.aVing just enoughto spnnkleoverthe top of the tart. RemO\'e the piecrustfrom the ovenandbrushalitt 1eof thebeateneggaroundtheedges Donot switchoff the oven.Graduallystir the remaining eggsinto the filling mixture seasonto taste with s.alt.and pour the mixture into the piecrust Gentlypressthe piecesof asparagus deeper into the filling mixturetopre\·entthemfromdryingout duringcookingSpnnklethe remainingcheeseO\'erthe top andbakefor 15minutes.until golden brown.RemO\'e the tart from the oven.transfertoa servingdishand serveimmediately.

. ,.,,...,,,,,, ...,,.

68

Hot asparagusmousse MOUSS:: CALENTEOEESP.t.'~~AGOS

• butter. fo,greasa'lg

Preheat the oven to 300cf. line the base and ends of a loaf pan

• 9 ouncescanMCIgreenOf

9 ½x 4incheswith aluminum fotl and greasegenerouslywith butter

wtaiteasparagus. (h illkf

· 2 ¾ cupsbreadcrumbs • 1/,cup warmmilk · 2 eggyolks • 1 extralargeegg.lightlybeaten

• 1/2quantitya asSX:Sethamel

Sauce(see recipen ) • 3 ½ ounoescookedspinachf)I'

green asparag~

· salt and ptpper Se...,es .i

Pat the asparagus dry with paper towel Pour the bread crumbs in a bowl. add the warm milk. and let soak for 10 minutes Put the asparagusina food processoror blender and processbriefly tochop, then add the bread crumbs. Scrapethe mi>: ture into a bowl and be.at in the eggyolks. one at a time. makingsure that the first is fully incor· poratedbeforeadding the second. Beatin the who!e eggandseas.on to tas.tewiths.alt and pepper. bearing in mmd that the asparagus.is already salted. Pour the moussemi>: ture into the preparedpan and smooth the top Placethe pan in a roasting pan andpour in boding waterto comeabout halfway up the s;des Placein theo,•en and bake for about 1¼ hours until set Meanwhile. pour the bechamelsauce il to a foodprocessoror blender Add the cookedSJ)llachor aspara gus and processuntil combined Remove the mous.sefrom the pan using the Jlummum foil to help you, and ser\'e immediately with thegreen bechamelsauce

69

Coldasparagusmousse MOUSS:o:ES0 .~0:RAGOSFRiA

• 12ouncesc-annedwhite a$paragus.drained • 6 tablespoonsmffavo.-ed. powderedgelatin

• 11/:cupsboilingw.ater • 4 heapingtablespoons

Thiel:Mayonnaise

(see recipe106)

• escaroleofl ettooe.hard-cooked egg.andtomato(optional)

Patthe asparagus dry Withpap:ertowel. Putthe gelatinin a foodproc· essoror blender. addthe bodingwater.andprocessfor 10seconds. Immediately add the asparagus and processuntil finelychopp:ed Addthe mayom aiseand processbneflyagain. until it hasbeenin· corporated.Tasteand se.as.on with salt andpepper d necessaryline thebaseand endsof a loafpan9 ½x4 incheswtthaluminumfoll and pourin the mixture CO\·er andchill in therefrigeratorfor 5- 6 hours. until set To serve. turn out. usingthe aluminumfoil to help you A typicalSpanishgarnishwouldincludeescarole orchoppedlettuce. slicesof hard·cookedegg, andpiecesof tomato

• salt and peppe1

70

Leekmousse MOUSS:OEPUERROS

• 6 leeks.abootl poundSounces total weigflt.trimmed and rinsed

""''

• lcupbreadcrum~

• generous1cupwarmmi k • butter. for greasing • 3 extralargeeggs, • '.4cupMlippingcream,

whippedmtil sligtltty thickE-n .ed • ½ quantityClassicBechamel

Sauce.(see recipe1n • 31/:ouncescooked. drainedspinach

• salt

Cookthe leeksin a pan of s.altedboilingwaterfor 20-30 minutes, until tender.Drainwellandpatdry withpapertowel. Meanwhile . put the breadcrumbsin a bowl, add thewarmmilk. and let soak Pre· he.Jttheovento 325°F.Line thebaseandendsoi an 8·inchlongpan with aluminumfoil andgreasegenerouslyw,th butter Cut off and reservethe bulbsandtopsof the leeksandcut the remainderinto ¾-mchlengths.Putthereservedbulbsandtopsin a foodprocessor or blenderandaddthebreadcrumbandmilkmtXture.Processbnefly . thenwith the motorrunning, addthe eggsoneat a time.Whenthe mixtureis smoothandthoroughlycombined pourit into a ceramic or glassbowl, andstir in the ere.am. Stir in the remainingleek.Pour the mtXture into the preparedpan.Place the penin a roastingpen andpoorin boilingwaterto comeabouthalfwayup thesides. Place in the oven and bakefor aboutl hour, until set.Meanwhile, pourthe bfchamels.auceinto a foodprocessoror blender.Addthe spinach and processuntil combinedServe the mousse hot and offer the sauceseparately

Individualfish mousses

71

Pt:QU£~ ASMOUSSES OEPt:SCAOO

• 1 pound 2 ounceswhite fish fi lets. skinMCI • 5 tablespoonsSemon juice

• 3 tablespoonsoliveoil. plus extra fOfbrushing

• 7ouncessmokedsalmonor smokedtrout. thinly sli~

• 14ooooestanner cheese · 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• Settooeor escaroleleaves (optional)

· salt 5e...,-es6

Cut the wh.te fish filletsinto cubes. put in a shallow bO'At.andpour the lemon j uice over them. Let mannatein the re-frigerator. stirring occas1onaI1yfor about3hours. Brush6 ramek.nsor indi\'idualcera· mic or glas.s disheswith a lit tle oi. li ne the baseand thesidesof the disheswith theslicesofsmokedfish letting themO\'erhang the rims Oran thewhitefish. reservingthe lemonJuice. Put hJlf thewhitefish in a food processo r or blender with half the cheesa 1tablespoonof thereserved lemon j uice. an:Ihalf theoi. Processbriefly andscrape into a bowl. Put the remaining white fish. the remaining cheese. l tablespoon of the reser\'ed lemcnjuice. and the remainng oil in the foodprocessororblender and processuntil smoo1h . Stir intothe first batchof white fish. add the parsley and season to taste with salt Spoon the mixture into the prepared dishesand fold over the O\'erhanging smoked fish. Put the dlsheson a tray. cover completely with foil. and chill in the refrigerator for 5-6 hours until set ( The moussescanbe preparedup to a day in ad\'ance} Toserve. turn the moussesonto platesandgarnishwith lettuceor escaroleleaves

Tomato gelatin

72

GLATl'4A o::TOMATE

· VA poumh ripe, fleshy

tomatoes

• 1 large cannedor bottled red bftl ptpper. chopped

• 1 tablespooncoarsety chopped fresh mint • 3 ouncesunflavored powdered

gelatin • 11/r cupsheavycream

• lettuceor escaroleleaves (optional)

· salt

Ser-,es8

Cut a crossin the stalk end of eachtomatowith a sharp kn.fe put the tomatoesin a heatproof bowl. and pour in bodingwater to cover Letstand for 1- 2mmutes. thendram andpeeloff the skins Cut the tomatoesin half scoop out the seedswith a teaspoon. andcoarsely chop the flesh.Put in a foodprocessor or b'ender. togetherwrthany juice remairung on the cutt,ng board. and add the bell pepper and mint. Processbriefly to combine then transfer to a large heatproof bowl Pourl ½ cupswater into a pan bring to a boil. and stir in the gelatn v;ith awooden spoon. Remove thepan fromthe heatandpour thegelatin into the tomatomixture. Lightly whisk the cream andfold rt into thetomatomo:ture. Se.a. son to tasteWith salt Pour themixture into a mold 91/2x 4 inches and chill in the retngeratorfor at feast

4 hours. furnoutthe gelatinandgarmsh wrthlettuceoremrole le.a v es (Ifs easier to turn out the gelatin from a plasticratherthan a metal mold)

AUCES

Hot sauces 73

Classictomatosauce SALSA OETOMATECl..ASICA

• 3 tablespoons sunfloweroil

• 1 onion.chopped(optional)

· 2¼ pounth ripetomatoes. seededandchopped

· 1 teaspoonsugar

· salt Se".-es6

74

Heatthe oil in a skillet. Add the onion if using, and cook O\'erlow heat stirring occasiona lly for about 5 minutes until softened but not brov;ned.(If you·renot usingthe onion add the tomatoimmedi· ately).Addthe tomatoand cookO\'erlow heat.breakingup the flesh with the edge of a slotted spoon. for about 15 minutes Allow the mixtureto coolslrghtlythentransferto a foodprocessoror blender and process Add the sugar. seasonto tJste with salt. and process bneflyagain.Ser\'e thesauceeither ina sauceboat or poureddirectly O\'era dish.

Cannedtomatosauce SALSA OETOMATEENCOHSERVA

• 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 1 onion.chopped

• 1 pound 2 oun~s

Thes.aucemayalsobe madeusmgcannedtomatoes.Todo this. followthe methoddescribedin recipe73 but usethe quanbtes of ingredientsILstedhere

cannedtomatOfS · 1 teaspoonsugar

· salt Se".-es6

r-.oteMak.ing tomatosaucewith eitherfresh of cannedtomatoesin a ca.stironskil et willcausethepanto lo.se,ts -seasoning .. andturn a metallic almostsil'Ver color. If you ha\'edoneso Jndyou wantto usetheskillet for otherdishes(omelets.fnedfood, etc.} set it over theheatwith nottungin it until the bas.eturnsblack~ai n. This re· seasonsrt and youcanus.eitw,thoutingredientssticking

75

Tomatosaucewith onionandwine SALSA OETOMATE CONCEBOLLA YV NO

• 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1onion,chopped • 2¼ poundsripe tomatoes. chopped

• bo1.1quetgami (1fresh sprig

parsley.1d ovegarlic.and 1 bay leat tied incheesedoth) • 3 tablespoonsdry wflite wine

· 1 teaspoonsugar

• salt

76

He.at the od in a skillet Add the onion and cook over tow heat.st.r· ring occasionally. for 7-8 minutes. untJIlightJybroYined. Increase the heat to medium. add the tomato. bouquetgarni. andwine. and cook. breaking up the tomatoeswith thesideof a slottedspoon. for about 15minutes Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Transfer thecontentsofthepan to a foodprocessor or blenderand process Addthe sugar. season to tastewith s.alt. andprocessbnefly to mix Thesauce1s now re.ady to be served. If youprefera thicker texture. return the sauceto thepanand cookoverhigh heatuntil some of the liquid hasevaporated

Chinesesweet-and-soursauce SALSAAGR DULC ECHINA

• 1½ tablespoonssugar

• 2 tablespoonsri1egar • 1 tablespoontomatopaste

• 1 tablespoonsoysauce • 3 tablespoons orangejuioe

· 1 le.l$pooncorMtarch

Put the sugar. vinegar. tomato paste. soy sauce. and orangejuice in a pan Mix the cornstarch v;ith 4 tablespoonswater to a pastein a cup, then pour it into the pan. Bnng the sauce to a boil overlow he.at stirring constantly and serve hot This s.aucemakes a good accompaniment for roastpork. chops etc

Bechamel Tricks • io pre\'entlumpsformingwhenmakmgbechamel.removethe pan from the heatwhen stirring in the flour Stir briefly w,th a wooden spoon.returnthepanto theheat.andproceedasnormal • ToJ\'Oid a skin formingon top of a bechamelsaucepreparedin advance. CO\'erthe surface with a dlsk of waxed paper lightJy greasedwithbutter.Bechamel s.aucecanbe storedin the refngera· tor for a fewdaysor frozen •io reheat put it into a heatproof bowlset over a pan oi barely simmeringwater

77

Classicbechamelsauce SALSA BECHA.WEL COR:R!:NTE

, 1.4cup(½ stick)butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 2 tablespoonsall•pl#poseftotlr

• 3 cups,milk

• salt 5e...,-es6

78

Melt the butterwith the oil in a panand stir in the flour.Gradua l ly stir in the milk a little at a time. and bring to a boil. st1rnng cons1antly Addsalt to tasteandsimmero,·er medium he.atst1rnng constantJy for 8- 10 minutes.If a thinner sauce is required.add more mi(k. ff the bechame l needsto bethicker. simmerthe saucelonger until it re.1ches the required consistency.

Bechamelsaucewith tomato SALSA BECHA.UEL CONTOMATE

• !quantity Classsicbethamel

sauce(seerecipe77) • 1 tablespoontomatopuree 5e...,-es6

Spoona little of thebechame l sauceinto a bowtandstir in the tomato paste.Pourthe mLXtu re backintothe panand mix.well

:,.1,

ts

Oli

I I

0

I

~f\Rlf:JI\,:: l,9 '

-

;t ~

1

79

Bechame l saucewith eggyolks SALSA BECHA.WEL CONY£UAS

Sauce(see recipen)

Put 2 eggyolks in a bowl andgraduallyadda litt!e of the bech.amel sauce.stirnngconstantlyto pre\'enttheeggsrurdling Then return the mi>:ture to the saucein thepanandreheatgentJybut donot allow

Se",-esC

rt to b01I

• 2 egg yolks • lquantityClassicBechamel

80

Bechame l saucewith capers SALSA BECHA.WEL CONALCAPARRAS

, 1.4cup(½ stick) butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 2 tablespoonsatl•pl#pose flour

ThLs sauceisusuallymadeto accompany poachedfish Makethe be· ch.amel sauceasdescribedin recipe77. addingthe stockat the same bme youaddthe milk Whenthesauceis readystirin thecapers

• 11/: CUI)$, milk • 1½ cups,fishstock

t,.ote for addedfla\'Or , add1-2 eggyolksasdescribedin recipe 79.

(usethe ooob'lg liquid left over after poachingfish)

· 1- 2 tablespoonscapen. rinsed anddrained Se",-esC

81

Bechame l saucewith stock SALSA BECHA.UEL CONCALDO

• 2 tablespoons (¼ stick) butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 2 tablespoonsall-purpose flour • scant2cupsmilk

• scant2 oopschicbn stock (homemade . cannedor

made with a bouilloncube)

• salt

Make the bechamel sauce as described in recipe77 but usingthe ingredientslisted here Sothhomemade stockandstockmadefrom a cubecontain salt so be.Jrthis in mind Ythen seasoningthe sauce ThLs sauceis dearerandlighterthan thepre\'iousrecipesand is good for cannelloni \'egetables. or bakedfish dlshes

82

0

Spanishsauce SALSA ESPAtiOLA

• 1 pound 2 oun~s bonelesswal or bfft. tmlmed of visible fat • 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 1 onion.chopped • 3 carrots.dioed

• 1 tablespoonatl-pl#posefioar • bouquetgami

(1 fresh spcigparsley.ldove garlic. and1bayleaf tied

togetherindleesedoth) • 1 wholeclove

• 1 smallvealshankbone

· salt Se....~6

Dicethe \'e.JIor beefveryfinely.Heatthe od in a pan.Addthe onion and cookO\'erlowheat.st1rnngoccas10nally for about10minutes. until goldenbrown.Addthe me.atand cook, stirring frequentlyfor 8-10 minutesuntil evenlybrowned.Stir inthe carrot.then s1irin the ftour_Cook, stirnng constantly.for about5 minutes,then gradually stir in4 cupswater_Addthebouquetgarrv.clove.andve.alshankand simmergentlyfor 30 minutes.Remove anddiscard the \'ealshank. clove.and bouquetgarniand pourthesaucethrougha fines1raine r into a bowl.pressingi1with a woodenspoonto get all the liquid Returnthe sauceto thepanandstir well.Seasonto tas1ew,th salt and simmeruntil thesaucereachestherequiredconsstency

83

Bolognesesauce SALSA BOLO~ESA

• 5ounceslean steak

• 2 tablespoonsoiwoil • ½c...»finely choppedbaoon • 1 smal onion. finelychopped • 1carrot. ffletychopped

• 1- 2 stalks celery. fwielychopped

im ely chop the ste.ak.Heatthe oil in a deep pan.Add the bacon and cooko,·ertowheat stirringoccasionally for 5 minutes. Add thesteak onion.carrot. celery. andclove, seaso n with salt. and cook. stirring frequently. for about 10minutes. until the meat ls browned and the \'egetablesha\'f softened. St.r in the tomatoesand wine. CO \'er. and simmergently for 10minutes

• l whole dow • 6 tablespoonscanned

tomato purff • 2 tablespoonswlite wiie

t,.ote This sauceis enough for 11ouncesSpaghetti. Tossthe freshly cookedpastain !generous cup light creamand thebolognesesauce. and servewith freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• salt

84

Bearnaisesauce SALSA BEARMSA

• 1 tablespoonfinety chopped

scallion or shallot • 2 tablespoonswhite•wine vinegar • ,1, cup butter

• juice of V:lemon • 4egg yolks

• pinchofpotato starch • 1 tablespoonchopped fr esh parsley

• salt and pepper 5e...,-es6

Put theseaDion or shallot in a small pan.pour in the Vinegar. and cook for a few minutes until the liquid hasreducedby half. RemO \'e the pan from theheatand let cool. Melt the butter in anotherpan but do not let brown.Stir 2 tablespoons water and the lemonjuice into the cooledVinegar mixture. Make a water bath witha pan or skillet large enough to hold the smaller pan Half·fill the panwrthwater andbring to just below boaing point. Lower the he.at so that the water is barely simmering Add the egg yolks to the \'inegarmixture and,usmg the tip of a knrfe. adda pinchof potatostarch. Whisk wel. thenplacethe pan in the s mmering water. and cook.whiskingconstantly. until the sauce thickens. Remo ve from the heat and take the pan out of the water bath. Gradua lly whisk in the butter. a little at a time When all the butter hasbeen fullyincorporated. add the parsley andseason to tastewith salt and pepp:er. Ser\'e in a warmeds.auce boat t,.ote This sauceis somewhere betweena mayonnaiseanda holland· a1se and is always servedhot It is de5cious but a little fiddlytomake

asrt curdlese,rnly.tt theIJutter see mstobesepara tmg in thesauce. whisk rt well just before serving. This saucegoeswell with tender· loin.sirloin.or roundsteak or with broiled fish. To make a hollandaise sauce. followthe method abo,·e but leave out the vinegar reduct,on. potato starchand parsley. and use 3 egg yolks. 200 g/7 oz butter and the Juice of ½lemon

85

Cumberlandsauce SALSA CUMBERLAND

• thiNy pared h'ld of 1/:orange

• ;tice and thinlyparedriid

otUemon • 3 tablespoonsreda,rrant jely • ¼ teaspoonDijonR'llstard

.....

• 11/r teaspoonsWorcestershire

Cut the orangeand lemonrind into very fine julienne strips Bnng a small pan of water to the boil. Addthe orangeand lemonnnd and blanch for 2 minutes Drainand reserve. Melt the jelly in the pan and addthe lemon juice. Stir in the mustard and the Worcestershire sauce. Stir in thereservedcrtrus nnd j ust before serving. Thes.auce may beservedhot or cold and is good with fishor roastedmeat

5e...,-es.i

86

Savorylemonsauce SALSA CONZUMO OEUUON

• 4 1/:tablespooM butter

• 1 heaping tablespoon all-purposeflour • 1 chictenbouilloncube

· 2 eggyolks • ;uice ofl lemon • pindl of freshlygratednutmeg

· 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

· salt

Melt the butter in a pan. then stir in the flour.Gradually stir in scant 2 cups water. a little at a t.me. then cook stirnng constantly. tor 5minutes_Crumblein thebouilloncubeandremove the panfrom the heat Put the eggyolksandlemonj U1 cein a bowl. spoonin a little of thehot sauce.andstir immediately to prevent the yolks curdling. Stir in a little moresauce and then pour the mixture back into the pan Thesaucedoesnot require further cookingbut should bekeptwarm. Seaso n to tastewit h salt and stir in the nutmegandparsley Serve in a warmedsauceboat This sauce goesweDwith friedor roastmeat and bakedfish. It is simi ar to searna,s.esaucebut e.aser to make. r-.ote:You canalsomakethis s.auc e usinghalfstockand half milk.

87

Mousselinesaucefor fish SALSA MOUSSELINA PAqAF-£SCAOO

, 1.4cup(½ stick)butter • 2 tablespoonsall-purposeflour • 3 cups,fish stock

• leggwflite • 2 egg yolks

• salt

88

Melt the butter in a pan.thenstir in the flour.Graduallywhiskin the fish stoct. a little at a time. thenremovethe pan from the heat and continueto wtuskuntil the sauce is smooth. Returnthe pan to the

he.atandcook,stirringconstantlyfor 4 minutes Seasonto taste withsalt Transfer thesaucetoa heatproofbowland place overa pan of barelyStmmenng water to keepwarm Justbefore serving, Ythlsk the eggwMe in a cle.andry bowluntil soft peaksform.Gentlyfold the egg yolksinto the Ythites, then graduallyfold in the hot sauce, a litee at a time.Sef\•eimmediately in a warmedsauceboat

Red winesauce SALSA OEVINOTINT O

• 1½ tablespoons01;veoil

He.attheoil in askillet.Addtheshallot'Sandcookoverl owheat.st,rring

• 2 largeshallots.chopped

occas1onally. for about 7 m,nutes. until beginningto brown.Addthe wineand}~ cup water and simmergentlyfor 10minutes.81endthe butter and flour in a bowl w,th a fork to forma paste. Gradually stir the pa.ste into the skillet a smallamount at a time Whenthe meatis re.1dy.pour anycookingjuices into thesauce Stir in the parsleyand seasonto tastewith salt andpepper.Pourthe sauceO\'erthemeat Thlssaucegoeswellw,th sirloinor round steak

• 2¼cups redwine

• 3 tablespoons buttu • 1 tablespoonall-purposeflour • 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• salt and pepper 5e...,-es6

89

Madeira sauce SALSA OEVINOOE MADEIRA

• 3 tablespoonsolM! oil

Heat the oil in a pan Add the onionandcookO\'er low heat.stirring

• 1 smal onion.thinly slioed

or MaggiSeasoning

occas1onally. for about 7 minutes. unti lightly browned.Stir in the flour. then graduallyst.r in the waterwrth the me.atextractor Maggi Seasorung. a little at a time. When incorporated graduallystir in the Madeira Simmergently for 10minutes.Strain througha coarse strainer into a deanpan and reheat Se.ason with salt if necessary

• ah : ture. andcook for 5 minutesmore Melt thebutter in a smallpan remo\'e from the heat.andstir in the mint Addthis

• 3 tablespoonsbutter

mixture to thesoup tust before serving

• 4 cupschicken stock

(llomemade.cannedor made w;tha bouillon ctibe)

· 2 tablespoonsrice , th cup plainyogurt • 1 egg yolk.ljgtltty beaten

• 1 tablespoonchoppedfresh mint • salt andpe:pper

Se".-es .i

143

Celeryand potato soup SOP/.o::/.PIOCO'I'PAT/.l!\S

• 4 t.ablespoM olive oil

• 2 bundlesofoelery. cut into2 inchlengths • 3 onions.ooarselychopped • 1½ poundspotatoes. cut into pieces

· 2vealshanl:bones

• 1 tablespoonfinelychopped

oeleryleaves« freshparsley · salt Ma•es! q~ais.

Heatthe od in a largestockpot Add the celery and onion andcook over low he.atstirnngoccasionally.for about 10minutes. until begm· ningto soften. Add the potato vealshanks. and U cupswater_Cring to a boil. then lower the heat andsimmer for l hour Remove thepan fromtheheatand let cool slightly.Remove theveal shanks and proc· essthesoup, in batches. in a blender or foodprocessor. Return the soup toa clean pan.season to tastewiths.altandreheatge nUySer\'e hot ina soup tureen. garnishe d with thecelery lea\·esor parsley.

144

Mushroomsoup CliEMA0~ oo.u::i !)OMS

• 3 ¼ cupsfi"letychoppedctemini

m.ishrooms

• 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter • a fewdropsof lemonjuice • 4 t.ablespoM all-purposeflow , 6 1.4cupschickenstock

(llomemade.cannedOf madewith a bouiUoncube )

Put themushrooms.butter. lemonjuice.anda pinchoi salt in a pan. cover. and cook0\'er low he.a t for about6 minutes.Put the flour in a separate largepanoverlowhe.a t andcook. stirring constantlyfor about5-7 minutes. until lightly colored.Graduallystir in the stoclt. a i ttte at a time.Simmer.stirnng constantlyYiithawhisk. for 10min· utes. Add the mushroomsand their cook.ng jUices and simmer for 5 minutesmore.Put the egg yolk into a souptureen andgradually pour in thehot soup Stir with a spoonandser\'e immediately.

• 1 egg yolk

· salt Ser.~6

145

Soupwith rice.hard-cookedegg. andchoppedparsley CA_OO OECOCIOO CON,1.liROZ .HUEVO CUROYPEREJ l P C,6.00

• 8¾ cupsvegttablestock

· 4 t.ablespooMrioe • 2 hard-cooked eggs · 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

· salt Ser.~6

Pourthe stockinto a pan andbringto a boil.Addthe nee. bringback to a bod and cookover a medium-high heat for about15-18 min· utes. oruntil tender.Meanwhilechopthe yolksand l ¼ oi thewhites (all the eggwhiteswouldbe too much). Pour the stockandrice into a soup tureen. seasonto tastewiths.alt.add the parsley and eggs. and serve immediately.

146

Consomm e COHSOM£

• 1 beetshank • 1 pound2 ouncesleanbeef.

cut into smallpieces • 7ounoescarrots.thicklysic ed • 7ounoestumijps.thicklysic ed

• 1 smal onion.halved • 1 leek. halvedlengthwise

andri,sed~ll • 1 stalk oelery

• lwholeclove • 2 eggwtiites

• salt Ma•es61:ture to the consomme. andit will takeon agood goldencolor

147

Eggsquares FLAN

• 2eggyolks • 1cup stockor milk

· salt Se"w"ES. 2- 4

148

Preheatthe ovento 325~F.lightly beat the eggyolkswiththe stock or milk seasoowrth salt.andpourinto a lightlygreasedcast-ironegg dishors.ma ll gratmd~sh.Put thedishin a roastingpan andpourin hot waterto comeabouthalfwayup the sides.Sake for 10-15 minutes. until the minurehasset Remo\·e the dEshfromthe roastingpanand let cool. thenturn outtheseteggmixture.androt intosmall squares. Addthesquaresto thesoupbowlsjust before serving.

Eggcubes FLAN

• butter. for greasing

• 1egg • 3eggyolks • scant1cup hot stocl: · salt Se"w"ES.2 -4

149

Preheatthe ovento 325°F.Greasea gratin dishw,th butter Seatthe egg and the egg yolks in a bowlandgraduallybeat in the hot stock a littleat atime(takingcarethatft doesnotcurdlethem).Seasonwith salt and pourinto the prepareddish. Put the dish in a roastmgpan and pourin hot water to comeabouthatfwayup the sides.8ake for I hour but do not let the water boll as this will causesmallholes to form in the mO: ture. Remo\·eChe:therice in boilingwater and rinse undercold runrungwater as describedin reci~e 173. Heatthe oil in a largeskillet.addthe garlic. and cookoverlow he.atfor about 5 minutes. Remove anddiscardthe garlic. thenaddthenee. and heatthrough.

175

Ricewith shrimp.monkfish. and mussels 1,11::i:oz n~"co CCMGil-la~s. :i:.~,: y VEJLLOMS

• 21/:cupsround-grainrice • 2 Y,pooodsmussels

• 5 tablesp.oonswlite wine • 1bayleafor sprig freshparsley • 9 ouncesrawshrimp. shellson andheadsattached.if available • 5 tablespoonsbutter

• 2 tablesp.oonssooflower oil • 1tablespoon choppedonion • 2 tablesp.oons all-purposefloor • sc-ant2 cups milk

• 1tablespoontomatopaste • 9 ouncesbonelessmonldish

Mel cutintop~es • 1tablespoonchopped

fresh parsley ·salt

Cook the rice in boiling water and nnseundercold running water as descnbed in rec,pe li3 Drain well andset aStde If your mussels have not been pre-scrubbed, scrape their shells with the blade of a knife and remove the "beards~ then scrub under cold running water Discard any musselsYtT th broken shells oranythat donot shut immediately when sharply tapped Put them in a heavy panwrththe wine and bay te.afor parsley Co\'er and cook over low heatfor about 10minutes.until the shells have openedRemove the musselswith a slottedspoon. reserving the cooking liquid. anddiscard any that remain closed. Remove the musselsfrom their shells and 1f they are very large. cut themin half with kitchen sas.sorsPut them on a plate cover wtth another plate to prevent them drying out. and set aside Strain thereserved cooking i quid througha cheese cloth· lined strainer intoa bowl andsetaside.Shelltheshnmp remo,·e the he.ads1f attached andreserve Cheheads andshells. Setthe shrimp aside. Put the heads andshells in a pan addwater to CO \·er and a pinchof satt and bring to a bod Lower the heat and simmer for 10minutes. then strain the shrimp stock into the bowl of strained mussel stock. Makea bechamel sauce Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter wrththeoil in a skiUet Add theonionand cook over low heat stirnngoccasionally,for a fewminutes. until softened_Stirin theflour and cook, stirnng constantly. for l minute. then gradually stir in Che milk alternatingwith scant2 cupsof the shellfish stock Simmer for lOminutes.season to tastewithsalt. and stirin thetomatopaste. The sauce should be quite thick Add the monkfishand reserved shrimp tails to the sauceJnd cookfor 6 minutes. thenaddthemusselsand reheatbriefly.Melttheremaining butterin anotherpan Add therice seasonw,thsalt.and heatthrough.stirnngwith a wooden spoon. To serve. spoonthe riceintoa ring mold then tum it out onto a warm serving dish.Fil the center with the fish and sauceandsprinklewith thechop~ed parsley Alternatively serve theneeon theside

176

Ricewith fish andshellfish P~OH

· ¾cupoliveoil

• SouncesonioM,chopped

• U ouncestomatoes. peeledand ctaopped

• 1bayleaf • 1 s.pog freshparsley • 1 sprig freshthyme

• 1clovegaric • pinchohaffronth reads

• Souncesmonkfis.h @lel cut into chunks

· Souncesoon~reelsteal:.cut into chunksand bonesremowd

• Souncesgumard (sea robin) filelcut intochunks • 7 ounoesoceanperch.rockmh or racasse(soorpion fish)fillet cut into chunks

• 5 ouncesraw jumboshrimp. peeled

• scant 31/:cups,round-grainrice

• satt and pepper Se•ves4

~,1,p,.o1,,

lieat the oil in a pan Add the onion andcookoverlowheat stirring occaStonallyfor about 8 minutes.until begmrung to brown.Add the tomato. bay leaf. parsley. and thyme and pour in 61/4cups water Poundthe garlic with the s.affron in a mortar or processin a mini· food processorand add to the pan Bring to a boi and add the fish and shrimp Seasonv;ith salt and l}epper and cook over htgh to medium- high heatfor 15minutes. Usmg a slotted spoon. transfer the fishandshrimp to a serving dishand keep warm. Strain the fish stoct into a stove--t op safecass.e roleandbringtoa boil. Add the nee. cover. andcookfor 20 minutesRemovethecasserolefromthe heat and let stand. still cO\·ered for 5 minutes.lightly stir with a fork to separate the grams. Sen·ethe neein the casseroleand the fish and shrimp on the serving dish.

Murcianrice andfish stew

177

/.P:~0ZO,l0:R0 • 3 ¼-pound striped n llel d eanedand fileted. head rese~

· 1pound2 ouncesgumard (sea robin). dea~

and @let ed.

head reserwd. or monkfish

file ts • 1pound-2 OI.Wloe group« or porgy. dea~

and @let ed.

headreserved • sc-antl cupoiveoil

• 2 ftorasor other small dried reddl iles • 2 ripetomatoes. peeledand chopped

• 2clowsga tlic · 2 cupsround-grainrice • 7oun~ rawjumboshrimp, peeled

·salt

Ask your fish supplier to reserve the he.adsof the fish Cut out and discard the gillsfrom the reserved heads.then set3Slde Cut the fish into thick slices Heat the oil in a Dutchoven or largesto\·etop-safe casserole . Add thectu:h esandcookoverlowheat.st1rnngfrequently. for 2- 4 minutes. Remo \'e with a slottedspoon andset aside Add the fishheadsto the pan and cook. turning occaStonally, for 10min· utes RemO \'f anddiscard. then Jdd the tomato andcook stirring occas1onally tor 5 minutes. Pour in 8¾ cups water and bringto a boi . Meanwtule. pound thechil eswith 1 garlic clove in a mortar. or processin a mini-food processor. then add to thepan andsimmer for 5 minutes Seasontheslicesof fishwith salt add to thepan and simmer gently for 5-10 minutesuntil thefleshis.opaqueand flakes easily Carefullyremove the fishfrom thepan using a fish slice put on a ser\'ing dish. andkeep warm. Stram thestock and return to a clean pan Pound the remaining garlic in a mortar. or processin a mini· foodprocessor. andstir in 1 cup oi the fish stoct Set 3Slde Taste the remaining stock. seasonwrth s.alt 1f necessa ry and bnng to a boil. Addthericeand bnngback toa boil. thenlower thehe.atcove1. and cook for 15 minutes. Put the shrimp on top of the rice re-cover thepan, andcook for 5 minutesmore until the riceis tender and the shrimp are cooked through. The rice is served first andthe fish is eatenafterwardwith thegarlicandstock mixturepouredo,•er it just before s.eM ng t,.ote. thericemay beserved wrtha1ioli.gar1ic mayonnaise(seerecipe 110) or aj oacerte garlicoi . To make this, mix 2 crushedgarlic cloves with olive oil andsatt stirringuntil smooth.

Oneof the most famous restaurantsil Madrid for Murcian cooking is ti Caldero.run by Antonio Valero and hts s.onAlfredo Their style of cooking is \·ery preci.se and individual with verylittle influence from the ruisines oi other regions of Spam In general. Murcian dishesare strongly flavored. Sauces . such as t.irtara sauceand alioli are a specialty The region of Muraa in the southeastof the coon1ry is richly supplied wdh fish. Among the most important are mulfet. giltheadbre.am . ba.ssand Mediterrane.anshnmp. The latter are available only at certain timesof the year making them one oi Murcia"s most expensiVe products. ft is a longstandinglocal tradition to serve certain fish with nee. esp:eciaUy with calderorice. literally Mcauldron rice·· Thedish hastradrt10na1rootsin the fishing villagesof the region Thefishermen made a tnpod vi ith threecanes stuck in the sand. hung an iron cooking pot from the top. and lit a fire usingdry seav,·eed Seawaterwasusedasstock to cook the fish and once they werecooked. they wereremO\· ed andeatenwhile the ricecookedin thepot Themostimportant charactenstic-soi ca!dero rice are rts aroma. color. and flavor. all produced by ·nora· chiles. an essentialingredient The rice is always cookedin the samestockas the fish. cre.at 1ng a \·ery intensepartnership. Thecatdero is an iron pot s1il made today by Sl}ecia!ist ironmongers It is seasonedwrth heat to gNe caldero nee rts special flavor. A Outchoven is a fairly good substrtute.

178

Sailors· rice /.P:~0ZO,l00S0 -~L+I,ll+\.RI\E.I,~.

• 9 ouncescla.n-6 • S tablespoonsoiYe oil

• 1large onion.chopped • 1dove garlic,chopped

• 9ouncestomatoes. peeledand chopped

· 1teaspoonpaprika • 9ounces rawshriq) . peeled • 2cupsrouod-grainrice • 1bay leaf

• 1¼ cupsshelledpeas • 6 younggtobeartichokes. halved lengthwise

·salt

Scrub the clams under cold running water anddiscardany with bro· kenshellsor any that do not shut immediately when sharply tapped Pour about 5 tablespoonswater into a sk.lllet adda pinch of sal1and theclams. cO\·er. andcook over ~h reat shakingthe pan occasion· ally for 5-7 minutes. until the clams have opened Remove with a slotted spoonand dis.cardthe empty half shellsand anyclamsthat remain clo.sed . Put the clamson the hatf shell into a dish and keep warm Strain the cooking hQuid into a bowl through a cheesec l oth· lined strainer andadd enough waterto make4 oops. lieat the oil in a sto\'etop-safe casserole. Addthe onion and cook over low heat stirnng occasionally. for about 10 minutes until hghtly browned Addthe garhc and tomatoesand cook stirring occas,onally. for 10 minutes Stir in the paprikaand add the shrimp rice. and bay leaf. Stir well. pourin the diluted cookingliquid. and bring to a boll Sim· mer for 5 minutes. then add the peasand artichokes. andcook for 20 minutesmore Remove the cas.se ro!e from the he.at remove the bayleaf. placethe clams on top and serve immediately.

.r--

~

179 • 4 tablespoonsolive oil • 2 onioM, very finely chopped • 1green bell pepper.

seededand : for 20-30 minutes until the ctucken is cooked through. (Checkby cutti ng into the thickestpart with the tip of a kn,fe. If the juicesrun clearand the meatis no longerpink. the chickenis ready) Remo\'e the chict en from the pan and reserve l cup of the stoct. When the ctuckenis cool enough to handle cut into bite-sizepieces. Cook the ricein boilingwaterandrin.seundercoldrunningwater asdescribed in recipe : 173. Oramwell andsetaside. RemO\ ·e the mushroom stalks from the caps and cut both into fairly thick slices. Put into a pan with 2 tablespoons of the butter. the lemon juice and a pinch of salt Cover and cook o\'er low heat for 5 minutes. Meanwhile. make a bechamel sauceby melting2 tablespoons of the remaining butter with the od in a pan Stil' in the flour and cook. stirnngconstantly. for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the milk alternatingwith the reserved ctucken stock Seasonwith s.altand cook. stirring constantly for 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and their cooking juices then add the truffles and chicken Melt the remaming butter in another pan Add the nee. season vi ith salt and heat through. stirring with a woodenspoon Spoon it into a ring mold. then tum it out onto a warm serving dish.Whisk the eggyolks with a little of Chebecharnel sauce in a bowl. then stir into the pan with the chicken miKture. Remove thepan from the heatandspoonthe mixture into the center of the nee. Serve immediately t,.ote In Spain. th~s d~sh is madewith hen instead of chicken. tf you are cookingit with hen. you wil needto increasethe cookingbme for the meatto 45-60 minutes.

183 • 2½cups,long-grainrioe

• 9 ouncescanned tuna. drainedand Hated

Coldrice with tuna and mayonnaise -~'~OZ 31/.P..CO FROco~M1hCIES~. y~.TUh Make the mayonnaisein a blenderas described in recipe105. as rt will be thicker Cook the ri ce in boiling water and ri nse under cold runningwater asdescribedin recipe 173.Drainwell, poor into a large

• sunfloweroi. for brl.tShing

bowl.add a little salt. and mix Reservea little of the tuna forthe

• salt

garnish Stir the remainder into the rice v;ith a httfe more than half the mayoMaise.Brushthe insideoi a cakemoldwrthsunflower oil Spoonthe neemO: tureintoit. pres.s mg down~ ell to makesurethere

Garrish: • babylettuce leaves

• 3 tomatoes.sJi~

· 1 hard-cookedegg.siced

Mayonnaise (orusegood•

are no holes. Co\·er with plasticwrap and chillin the refrigerator for at least1hour. Tos.erve. run a round-bladed knrfearound the edgeoi the moldand invert the rice mi>: ture ontoa round serV'ing dish Top with the remammg mayonnaise andgarnish with lettuce.tomatoes. hard-cookedegg. and the reser\'ed tuna. Serve immediately.

quality. thic k bottled):

· 2eggs • 2 table$poonSwlite-wine

vinegaror lemonjuice

~otes If you like seas.on the tomato shceswith s.an and put a little tuna and mayonnais.eoo the lettucele.a v es. As an Jiternative. the hard-cookedeggmaybe chopp:edandput oo top of the rice.

• 3cups sunftoweroil • salt

0

'

•

184

• 2 tablesp.oonssoofloweroil

· 21/,pooodstomatoes. seededand chopped

• 1teaspoonsugar • 21/,cupsiong•grainrice

• 1poood10ouncesgreenbeans. trimmed • pinchofbakingsoda

• 6 tablespoons(¾stick) butter • 3 tablespoonsoiv e oil

• 3 eggs.beaten • salt

185

Ricewith t omatosauce.greenbeans. andomelet /.P:~OZ n~"coCCMs,r.Ls~.OETCUA.EJUJi/.S1t'£:i:DES v-o:i-,tl.~ Makea thidt tomatosaucev;ith thesunflower oil. tomato. andsugar as d-esc ribed in reape 73 Cook the nee in bodingwater and rinse under cold running water as descnbed in recipe 173. Drain well and set aside. If the beans are very fat rot them into smal cubes. otherwisecut into short lengths. 8nng a pan of water to a boll and adda pinchoi salt andthebaking soda. Add the beans andcookfor about 20 minutes. until tender.( Thecooking timewill depend on the freshnessof the beans.} Drain thebeanswel . Melt halfthe butter in a skillet Addthebeansand cookfor a few minutes.Heattheoli\•e oil in another sk.lllet over mediumheat Seas.on the eggswith salt pour them into the pan. and tilt the pan to CO \·er the basee\'enly. Cook until theunderside ha.sset. flip overthe ome!et using a spatula and le.ave it in the skillet O\·er low heat Melt the remaining butter in a pan Addthe rice. seas.on with a littl e salt andheatthrough. stirring with a wooden spoon.Spoon Chericealongthe center of awarm oval serving d~sh and spoon the tomato saucearound the rice Put the green beanson top of the neeand at placesomeat either end. Cut the omeletinto ¾·inchWide stripsand spnnkle over the beans. to garnish. Serveimmediately.

Ricewith Swisschard /,P~OZCOt-1 .~CE.G.r.S

• 4 tablespoonsoliveoil • !pound l OouncesS-schard . chopped

• 31/:ouncesbacon.

cutintostrips • 1cup round-grainrice • 2 cupsbeef stock

(homemad e,cannedor made with a boui lon cube)

· gratedParmesan dleese Se "i @S!

Heatthe oil in a pan. Addthe Swiss chard and bacon and cookover medium-tow heat.stll'ringoccasionally. for 5 minutes Add the rice pourin the stock, andbring toa boil. Lower the heat.co,•er. andcook for about 20 minutes.until therice is tenderand the stoct hasbeen absorbed. Sen·e immediatel y offeringthe Parmesan separately.

186

• 2cupsiong-grainrice

· ! pound10ouncesgreenbea.ns. cut into short lengthsor

3 1A poundspeas.shelled • pinchof bakingsoda (optional) • salt

Vinaigrette: • 2 table$poonSwlite-wine

vinegar • 6 tablespoonsoliin oil • 1teaspoonchopped fresh parsley

· 1 hard-coo~ egg. finely chopped • salt

Garnish:

• ioeberglettuceleaves • 1 pound2ouncesripetomatoes. sliced

• 3 hard-cookedeggs..

cut intosegments se,.,,-e.s6

Coldrice with vegetablesand vinaigrette P~OZ 31/.P..CO FROco~..,.EP:JllRt;S n IW}RE.H Cookthe ricein boiling waterandrin.seundercold runrung wateras describedinrecip:eli3 Oramv,·ellandseas.on with salt whilert is still in the sieve. Spoonthe riceinto a ringmoldandsetaside.Makethe vinaigretteas descnbedin recipe98 andpourintoa s.auceboat. Set aside.If usingthe greenbeans cook themin a largepanof salted boiling water for 20-30 minutes. un1i1tender.(The cookingtime will dependon the freshnessof the beans.) If youlike.Jdda pinchoi bakingsodato thewatertomakethe beans greener.Drainthe beans and let cool. tf usmgthe p:eas.cook them in a large panof salted boilingwaterfor 15-30 minutesuntil tender. (Thecookingtimewill dependon thesizeandfreshnessof the peas.} Drainwelland letcool Tum the riceout ontoa servingdish. Spoonthe greenbeans or peas into the center of the rin,g.Arr.ingealternatinglettuce lea\'esand tomatoslicesaroundthe outsideof the nng Garnishwith the hard· cookedeggsegments.inds.er\'e , offenng the vinaigretteseparately. ~ote:ThedEsh maybe keptin the refrigeratorwithoutitsdetenorat· ing for up to 1hourbeforeserving.

187

Cold rice salad rns.~.;1;.0.1. P ~-::E.1,;;;;oz

• 21/: cupsiong-grain rice • 1pOI.Wl d 10ouncestomatoes.. peeled. seeded.and chopped

• 9 ouncesmLtShroom s.

thintysJi~ • juice of ½ lemon • l canMd orbottl ed red bell pepper,drained and diced

• 2 tablespo M chopped

fresh parsley • 2 tablesp.oo ns wflite-wine

vine.gar • 6 tablespoonsoliveoil • 1hard-oooked egg. chopped

· salt

Cookthe ricein boilingwaterand rinseundercold running wateras describedin reape 173.Drainwel and set aside. Putthe tomatoin a colander.sprinkle with salt. and let drain. Put the mushroomsin a bow1.add the lemonjuice. andmix well Put the rice in a large sa· ladbowland add the tomato. mushrooms bell pepper. and parsley. Whisktogether the vinegarandoil in a pitcherand season wrthsalt Pour the dressingover the saladand mix well Sprinkle the chopped hard-cookedeggover the saladjust beforeserving.Thesalad canbe servedin the salad bowl or in a seM ng dish garrushed wi1hlettuce le.aves around the edge.

188

Ricewith chicken -~'~OZ 31/.P..CO CCHG~Ulh,.I,

• 2 wtlolecloves

Put the chickeninto a pan. pour in enoughwater to cover. and add a pinchof s.alt.Studthe onionwith theclo\·esandaddto thepanwith the carrots.bay leaf.and white wine.Coverand bring to a boil.then

• 2 carrots.thickly sliced

lowertheheat.andsimmergentlyforl ½- 2hours. untiltender.Wtule

• 1bayleaf

thectuckenis cookmgoccasiona Uyskimoff the froth th.atrisesto thesurfacewith a slottedspoon (Checkvihetherthechickenis done by cutting into the thickestpart oi the th,,ghwith the tip of a knife.

· 1ct.ckeil. about3 ¼ pounds • ! onion

• ¾ cup white wine

• 2 ½ cups,round-grainrice • 6 tablespoons(1/,stict ) bulte,r

• 2 table$poonSsunfloweroil

• 2 table$poonSal -purposeflour • 2 eggyolks.igtltly beate-n

teaspoonmeatextract or MaggiSeasoning

, 1A

· 1 teaspoonchoppedpatsley

• salt $e"',-eS6

tf the iuicesrun clear and the meat is no tongerpmk the chict en is ready.)Meanvihle.cookthe neein boilingwaterand rinsem der cold running water as described in recipe 173.Drain well andset aside. 1.Jftthe chden out of the panand carvethe meat Put the meat in a dish andladlesomeof the stockoverit to keeprt warm.Stramand reservetheremaining stock Tomakethe sauce. melt half thebutter with the oil in a pan. Sbr in the flour and cook,s.tirnngconstantly. for 2 minutes.Gradually stir in 3 cups.of the res.en·ed chicten stock and cook stirringcons.tantlytopre\'ent lumpsforming,Graduallystir a little of the s.todtinto the egg yolks.in a bowl. takmgcarethat the yolksdo not curdle.Addto the sauce. togetherw,th the meatextract or MaggiSeasoningandparsley.Seas.o n with salt 1fnecess.ary. Add thechickenmeatand keepthe sauce warmbut do not let rt cookany more.Melt the remaining butter in a pan Addthe rice seas.onwith salt. andheat through. stirnngwrth a woodenspoon.Spoon the rice into a ring mold.then turn out onto a warmservingdish. Spoonthe ctuckenmixtureinto the centerof the ring. Serve immediately

~ote. In Spain. this dish is madewith heninsteadof chict en. If you are cookingrt v;ithhen. youwill needto increasethe cookingtime for theme.atto l 1/2 -3 hours.

Rice with groundmeat

189

/.P:~OZ co~C/.P\E FIC.~::.~

Heat the oil in a pan. Addthe onionand bell pepper and cookover tow heat.stirring ocCJ.s 1onally for 5 minutes until softened Add the tomatoandbeef andcook. bre.akingup the meatwith a wooden spoon. for 5 minutes.until lrghtlybrov;ned.Addthe papnka.season with salt and pepper. and mix wel. then stir in the rice. and cook st1rnngconstan tly for 2 minutesPourin the stock. cover . and cook for about15 to 18minutes until the rice is tenderand all the liquid ha.sbeenabsorbed.Serveimmediately

• 4 tablespoonsoliveoil • 1onion.thinfysliced • 1greenbell pepper, seededand cut into strips

· 2 tomatoes. peeled. seeded . and dlopped

• 14ouncesgroundbeef • pinchof paprika

• 11/,cups round-grainrice

• 2 Y,cupsboilingbeet stocl: (homemade,cannedor made with a bouilon cube)

• salt and peppe1

Set•~s.!- 6

-----./ "

11

fl

'

i~I\R_n

?,

'I'

190

Ricewith kidneys -~'~OZ3:l/.P..CO CCH'll~Or-.ES

• 1 kidney,a.bout 1pound2 ounoes • 2½ cups,long-grainrioe

• 5 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 2 table$poonSal -purposeflour • ¾ cup sherry

• 3 tablepooMbutter · salt $e"',-eS6

191

Prepa re the kidney asdes.e nbed onpagei68. Cook thericein boiling waterandrinseunder coldrunrungwaterasdescribed in recipe 173. Drainwel and set aside Tomake the sauce. heat the od in a pan. Stir in the floor and cook. stirringconstantly. for 4-5 mmutes. until beginning to brown.GraduaUystir in the sherry and 2 ½cups water and seasonwith salt Simmer for 5 minutes. then add the pieces of kidney and cook for 4 minutesmore Melt the butter in another pan Add the rice season withs.alt.and he.atthrough. stirring wit h a wooden spoon. Spoon into a ring mold. then tum out onto a warm servingdish.Spoonthe kidney mi>:ture into the centerof thericeand serve immediately.

Yellowrice with peas P~oz::E +1-00RMO .t.1,1/.P: tlO YCOHGUIS+l-lrES

• pinch of saffron threads

• 21/: cuin long-grainrioe • scant 1cup fresh or frozenpeas

• 3 tablespooMbutt«

• salt se,.,,-es6

Crush the saffronthreadsin a mortar. then stir in 2 tablespoonswa• tff . Cook the rice in boiling water. addingthe s.affron mixture to the water. and rinseundercold runningwaterasdes.Cfibedinrecipe 173. tf usmg freshp:eas.cook ina panof saltedboilingwaterfor 15-J0min· utes until tender. (Cook frozen p:easaccording to the instructions on the package) Mett the butter in anotherpan. Add therice se.a. son with salt. andheatthrough. stirringwith a woodenspoon. Drain the peasand stir into the rice Serve immediately.

192

Yellowrice with scrambledeggs /.P:~OZ .~Y~.RltLO CO\ HUEVOSRE.VUELTOS

• 21/:cupsiong-grainrice

• sc-ant1cup baby peas.cooked • pinch of saffron threads • 3 tablespoonsbutter

• salt

Eggs: • 8 eggs.beaten • 11/:tablespoonsbutter • 3 tablespoonsmilk

• 9ouncesrawshrimp. peeledand halved.or 2 truffles. thinfy sliced • salt

193

Preparethericeand peasas.described in recipe191andkeepwarm ft needsto bereadyasthe eggsmustbeservedassoonastheyare cooked.Halffill a large.deeppanorroastingpanv;ithwaterand bring to a boil. thenlowertheheat sothat the wateris just simmering.Put the eggs. butter. milk. andshrimp. if usmg. into a pan andsea.son with salt Put the pan in the simmering water and cook stirring constantlywith J forkespeciallyaround the edgeof the panasth~s is wherethe eggswill set first. Whenthe eggmixture beginsto turn creamy.remove thepanfromthe simmeringwater.stir ll thetruffles. d using,andcontinueto stir v,·ell until the eggshaveset Thetotal cookingtimerequireddependson howfirm youlike yourscrambled eggs; it is usuallyabout10minutes. Spoonthe rice intoa ring mold andturn out onto J warmserving dish Spoonthe scrambledeggs into the centerandserveimmediately Alternati\·elyservethe ricein a moundon theside.

Milaneserice /,P~OZV1_+\.IES~

• 21/:cupsiong-grainrice • 3 tablespoonsoive oil • lonion . finel'ychopped

• generous½ cupdioed

Serranoham.prosCWtto or other dry-cured ham

• sc-ant1cup :over medium heatforabout 30 minutes Add l cup cold water. bring back to a bod. andsimmer for 30 minutes more Oo this twicemore at 30-minute intervals. then simmer for another 30 minutes(making a total cooking time of about 2 ½ hours). until the be.ansaretender but not falling apart (the cookingtimedepends on the Jge ofthe beans). Remo ,·e the pan from the heat anddrain Remove and : ture. Increase the O\·enternpera1ureto broil andput theshells under thebroilerand cookfor about 15minutes. until golden brown. Serveimmediately. t,.ote. tf you like separate the egg then add the yolk to the potato mixture wit h the other ingredients. Whisk the egg v;Me in a clean. dry bowl until it formssoft peaks.andthen fold it in

264

Americanbakedpotatoes PrA.HS .~s.r.o.r.s ~-l~H!ERIOlg

• 4 largepotatoes.unpeeled • 1dowgarljc

• 2 tablesp.oonsoiYe oil

Ser,,es t

Preheatthe ovento325°F Washand dry the potatoes. Rub thegarlic o,•er the outside oi e.achpotato then rub with the od Oo this with your fingers as d giving the potatoesa massage . Lightly pnck the skinswith a fork three or four times in drfferent places. Wrap each potato in aluminum foil and bake for 10 minutes. Increasethe oven ternpera1ureto 425~F andbakefor 50 minutesmore. Serve the po· tatoesimmediately. with their foil halfo~ened just at the point v,·here the two ends of foil meets. t,.otes: This reciperequirestop-quality potatoes. Allow! largepotato p:er serving and serve as an accompaniment to broiled ste.ak or chops. You can cut open each potatowith a knifeandinsert a pat of butter just before serving.

265

Potatopatty to accompanycold meats andmeatdishes -0:i-_1; o:;Pr,UAS PA:i:.1; !,CO\IP.t;iU,P ~11,,\IBRES YC/.P\ES

• 1 pound10 oun~ potatoes. unpeeled · 3- 4 t.ablespooM oive oil , 1A cup(1/2stick) butter or

½ cup lard • onionandbacon(optionalseeNote).finelychopped

• salt se,.,,-es4

Putthe potatoesintoa largepan of coldwater.mdadd l teaspoon salt Makesure that thewatercovers themcompletely.8ringtoa boil. then lowerthe heat to mediUmand cookfor 20-30 minutes. until tenderbut not fallingapart Oramwellandlet cool.(Youcanprepare thepotatoesto this stagethe daybeforetheyarerequired) Peelthe potatoesandpushthemthrougha ricer or cut theminto thin julienne stnpswith a mandoline.He.atthe oil in askillet.Addthepotato shape rt into a patty.without flatteningtoo much. .md cook for about 10 minutes until the undersideis lightly bro'Nned.Turnthe petty over by invertingonto a plateand then slidingit backinto the pan.Cook for about10minutes. until the secondsideis lightly browned.Invert the patty onto the pan lid or plate againand drain the oil from the pan Melthalf the butter or lard in the skillet.add the potatopatty. and cook for about5 minutes.then turn rt and cookfor 5 minutes more.until brownedandcrusty.Transfer to a warmservingdishand cut into triangles.ft canbe servedwithall kindsoi dishes ~ote:tf youwant to addthe onion,cookrt in the skimet O\'ertowheat. stirnng occas1onally. for 5 minutesbeforeadding the potato. ff you want to add the bacon cookrt in the skillet for a fewminutesbefore addingthe potato.Bothonionandbaconprovideaddrt1onal fla\'or.

266

Potatosaladwith tuna andhard-cookedegg PrAHS E\ E\S~H~l.tl,, CQt,;,l;i.,H v H..E'\'0ou:i:o

· 21/:poundspotatoes.unpeeled • 2 tablespoonsmilk • 8 ouncescannedtuna in oil, drainedand bfoten intodlun 'ks

• 3 hard-cootedeggs,.sliced • 3 tabl~poons white-wine

..;r,egar • 6 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1scal ion. fi"letychopped

Put the potatoesinto a large pan oi cold water and add the milk and a generouspmchof salt Makesure that the liquidCO \·ers them completely. Bnng to a boil. then lowerthe heatto medium.and cook for 20-30 minutes.until tenderbut not falling apart Drainwell.peel. and cut into sfices. Put the slices into a bowl, altematmg wtth the tuna andhard-cooked eggs Whiskthe vinegar with a httte salt usmg a fork then pour O\'er the potatoes. Pourthe oi over the saladand add the scallion and parsley Tosslightly to avoid break.mg up the potatoesor eggsand let standuntil almostcold before serving.

· 1teaspoondlopped

fresh parsley • salt

267

Potatoand tunasalad rns.4.~.o~o: P.ur.1;sCONil-TllH

• 8 ouncescannedtuna in oil, drained

• juice of 1 lemon

• 4 latgepotatoes • 2 tablesp.oonswtlite-wine ..;r,egar • 4 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 4-6 lettuce leaves

· 12olives · 2 hard-ooo~ eggs.

cut rlto quarters • salt

Coarse ly flakethe tuna into a bowl andpour the lemonjwce over it Cook the potatoesasdescribedon page196. Drain.p:eel andslice. then put the slicesin another bowt.Whisk the vinegarw,th a pmchof salt. then whisk in the oil with a fork Pourhatf the V1 na1grette over the potatoesMakea bed of lettuce le.avesin a salad bowl Mix the tuna with the remainingpotatoand spoon into the salad bowl Add the oli\·es. pot.rthe remainingvina:gretteoverthe salad. and garnish with thehard-cookedeggs

268

• 1quantityClassicMayoMaise (see recipe105) · 2¼ pounds potatoes. unpeeled • 2 tablespooM capers. riMed, drained and chop ped

• 2 tablespoonsmilk

• 1o.ic:umber, peeled and th inly sJi~

• 3 firmtomatoes. sliced

• 1canned « bottled red bel ptppe:r.drained and sliced

• 1 hard-coo~ egg.sli«.EJI.LOIHS i!,t CU'~Y

• 2 Y,pooodsmussels

• 5 tablesp.oonswlite wine • 1stalk celery. chopped

(optional) • 12ounces(aboot ¾ box)

macaroni • 2 tablespoons(¼ stick) OOtter

• 2 tablesp.oonssoofloweroil • 1largeshallot or 1small onion, WfYfinely chopped · 1teaspooncurry powdl!f • 1¼ tablespoons all-purposeflour

• 2YHupsmilk

• sc-ant1cupgratedcheese. suchasCMdclaror gruyere

· 1teaspoonfi"letychopped fresh parsley • salt

ff yourmusselsha,·enotbeenpre-scrubbed . scrapetheir shellswith the bladeof a knifeandremo\'ethe "beards.- thenscrubundercold runningwater.Discard anymussels.with brokenshel s.or any th.at do not shutimmediatelyvihensharply tapped.Put them intoa large panwrth the wine. celery. if using, and a pinch of salt Co\·erand cookovermediumheat.shakingthe panoccasionally . for 4-5 min· utes until the shellsha\·eopened RemoveChemusselsv;itha slot· ted spoonand reserve the cookingliquid Discardanymussets that remainclosed Removethe mussels from theu shellsandd theyare \·ery big, cut them into two or three p eceswith kitchenscissors. Strainthe resen·edcookingliquid intoabowlthrough acheese-c loth· lined strainer Cookthe macaroniasdesetibedon page221.Mean· whde makethe sauce.Melt hali the butter w,th the oil in a skillet Addthe shallot or onionand cook O\·erlow heat.stirnng occasion· ally for about5 minutes. until softenedbut not brown Stir in the curry powderand flour and cook stirnng constantly. for 2 minutes. thengradually stir in the milk andthe resen-edcookingliquid. Cook. stirnng constantly for 5-10 minutes. until thickenedPreheatthe broiler.Drainthe macaroniandput it into an O\'enproofbaking d~sh Addthe mussels.andstir in half the cheeseand the parsley.Pour the sauceO\·erthe top spnnklewith the remainingcheeseanddot with the rest of thebutter Cookunderthebroilerfor 10-15 minutes. until golden brownandbubbling Serveimmediately.

276 · 12ounces(about 1.4 box) macatoni • 4 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1onion. finelychopped

• 1clovegaric. ffle-tychop ped • 14ouncesripetomatoes. peeled.seeded.and chopped

• 5 table$poonSwlite wine

Macaroniwith cannedtuna \l~OHO\E.S CO\ ltU\ o::l,r/. Cookthe macaroni as describedon page221.Refreshundercold running water drain and set aside Heat the oil in a pan Addthe onionandgartic and cookoverlow he.at stirring occa.s 1onally, for about5minutes. until softenedand translucent Add the tomatoand cook,stirring andbre.aking it up with theside of thespoon.for a few minutes then addthewine.sugar. herbs, anda pinch of sJlt.Cook. stirnngoccasiona Uy for 15minutes.then addthemacaroni. butter. gruyere.andtuna Mixwelland servehot.

• ½ teaspoonsugar

• pinch of acomaticherbs • 2 tablespoons(1A stick) butt:« • ½ cup gratedgruy,e,re cheese

• 5 ouncescan~ tuna. drainedand Hated

· salt

277

Macaroniwith baconand peas COOTOSCCM~-~COt,; YG.,IS/.P.. TES

• 2 J,4 cups,eJbowmacaron i • 2 table$poonSsunfloweroil

· 1 largeonion.fwlei'ychopped · 2 ¼ poundsf1)e tomatoes. seededand coarsely chopped

· 1teaspoonsugar • 9 ouncescannedpeas.drain-ed • ¾ cup gratedgruyere cheese

• 12thin smo~ bacon slices

• salt

Se,.,_-es 4-5

Cook themacaroniasdes.mbed on page221 Refresh under coldrun· ningwater. drainand s.etis,de.Heattheoil in J skillet. Addtheonion and cookO\'erlowheat sbrnng occasionally. for about8 minutes. until begiooingtobro'Nn.Addthetomatoandcook. stirringoccasion· allyandbreakin,grt upwrththesideof thespoon.for aboutlOminutes. let cool slightly. then transferthe mixture to a foodprocess.oror blenderandprocessto a puree Addthesugar and seas.on to taste withsalt Preheattheo\'ento 350' F.Combine themacaroni.tomato sauce.peas.andall but2 tablespoonsoi thegruyerein anO\'enproof bakingdish. Sprinkle the remaininggruyere on top and bakefor a fewminutes. until the cheesehas melted.Meanwhile. roll up the baconslices. andsecure with woodentoothpicks.Cookin a heavy or non-stickskillet turningfrequently . for 5-10 minutes. until lightly

bro•nedandcoot.edthrough.Remo veand discardthetoothpicks . placethebaconrolls on topof thepasta. andserve immediately

278

Tagliatellewith shrimpandpistachionut s C 1r+1-s co~ G,t;t.18.t,S Y 'IST/.CHOS

• 7 ounce$rawshrimp. shellsand

heathattached.if available

· 2zu«hi ni

Peelthe shrimp reser\'ing the shells and heads if attached. Put the he.adsand shells into a pan pour in 8¾ oopswater. and bring to abod Lowertheheatandsimmer for 15mmutes. Meanwtule sficethe

• 5 tablespoonsoiv e oil

zucchinilengthwise into thinstrips with a vegetable p:eeler_Se.as.on

• 2 shallots.fraetychopped

withs.altandp:epper lieat halftheoil in a skillet.Addthe shallotsand cookover low heat.stirring occasionally.for 5 minutes.until softened and translucent Add the zucchini andcook. stirring occasionally. for 5 minutes. Add the shnmp pistachio nuts. and oreganoand cook. stirring occas,onally. for 3-5 minutes until the shnmp are opaque. Strain theshrimpshell stoct into acleanpan.add apinch of sjt. and bnng to a boil. Add the tagliatelfe and coo>:for 3-4 minutes until tender. butstillfirmto thebite Oram add to the skillet.andtosswith the sauce Add the remaining oil and the basil and tosslightly again Serve immediately.

• ½ cup shelli?dpistachionuts

• pinchof &ied oregano

• 14ouncesfresh tagliatelle

· 1tablespoon choppedfresh basil • salt and peppe1

Ser,,es t

279

Pasta with bell peppersandham -os J~.MON

P+I-S-.~ CCU' ME\ • 2 largered bell peppers

• 7 ounce$Serrano ham«

proScaltto.tflinty slioed • 3 tablespoonsoive oil • 3 red onions.sliced

• 2 tablespoonscape:rs, rinsedand drained • 4 tablespoonschopped

fresh basil • 14ouncest.agliatelle • salt and peppe1

PreheattheO\·ento 400 tFor preheatthebroiler. Putthe bell peppers on abaking sheetand placein theovenor under thebroilerandcook. turningfrequently. for about25minutes. until charredand blistered Transfe r toa cuttingboard CO \·erw,th a dishtowel. and let cool, then p:eeloff the skms Hal\'e lengthy;is.e.remO\ ·e and dis.cardthe seeds. and cut the fteshinto thict strips. Cut the hamintostnps. lieattheod in a skillet Addthe onion and cook over low he.atstirringoccasion· ally for about 5 minutes until softenedand translucent Remove Che pan from the he.at stir in the pepper stnps ham capers. and basil. seas.on Yiith salt and pepper. and pour into a bowl Bnng a largepan of saltedwater to a boil.Add the taghatelle. bring backto a boil and cook for 8-10 minutes. until tender but still firm to the bite Oram well and tosswith the mixturein the bowt.Sen·e warm or cold t,.ote: For a contrastoi te.xtures. cookthehamin a skillet until crisp.

280

Seafoodnoodles ~10:cscor-.M!,Pscos, FIOEll~.)

• 110l.l'lcesrawshrif111. shellson andheadsattached.if available • 14 ooooesmonldish

• 1/,cup oliveoil • 6 smalllang~ti nes • 4 tomatoes.

Pffled. seeded.anddiced • 2 clovesgar1ic,crushed

• 1 teaspoonpaprika

• pindl otsaffton powder • 1 pound 2 oun~s vef}' fine noodles

· salt 5e...,-es6

Peelthe shrimp res.e rving the shells and heads1f attached. Setthe shrimp aside. Cut along e,ther s de of the monkfishbone. set the filletsaside. andreserve the bone Pour 7¼ cups waterinto a pan. add a pinch of s.alt.the shrimp he.adsand shells. and the monkfish bone. and bringtoa boi. Lower theheatands mmer for 20minutes. Meanwhile. cut the monkfish fiUets into ¾-mch cubes Remove the pan from the heat let cool slighUy then strain the stoc+:into a bowl and set as de Heat the oil in an ovenproof earthenwarebaking pan. paella pan or large ovenproof skillet th.atcan be usedon the stove Addthetangoustmesand cook for a few minutes. then addtheshrimp and monk fish Cookfor a few minutesmore. then transfer to a pl.ate. and set aside. Add the tomatoand gartic to the paell a panandcook. stirring occas.onally. for 5 minutes Stir in the paprika and saffron and cook. stirring occasionally. for 8-10 minutes. Preheatthe O\'en to 350cf. Addthe noodles to the paella pan stir with a woodenspoon and pour in 6 ¼ cups of the reserved stoct. Cooko,•er highheat for 12 m.nutes. add the se.afood, placmg it carefully around thedish. and cook for 3 minutes more. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 5 minutes. until the top is lightly colored. Serve immediately straight from the dish. t-.oteYou can substitute mussels for the langoustines. They Jte less expensiVe but are a.so very tasty If you aresubstitutingmusselsfor tangoust nes use thetr strained cooking hQUJ d insteadof the fish stock andshell thembe-fore adding themto the dish.

Noodleswith crayfish

281

-.t.lL.t.' HESCOM C.t.llGl;EJOS

· 11/:teaspooMseasa lt • 9 ouncesfresh noodles

Put all the stock ingredientsinto a pan. poor in 8 ¼cups water. and bnng to a bod over high heat.Me.an while. wash the crayfi shin plenty of cold water. When the stockis boiling \'igorously. add the crayfish. bnng back to a bod. and cook for 4-6 rru:nutes, dep:endingon their

• 1cuplight

size. Remo ve fromthepan.twist offtheheadsandremovethesheUs

• 24 livecra)'mh. or thawed

frozenctayfish

cream

• 6 sprigsfresh parsley. chopped • salt and peppe1

Stoel::

· 2carrots · lonion

• 6 blact pepperooms

• lbayleaf • 1sprigfr eshparsley

(Theedible meat i.s in the tall). fl ake the flesh Pour 13cupswater into a largepan and bring toa boil. Add thesan andnoodles. stir with a fork to pre\·ent the noodles from sticking,bring bark to a boil and cook for a few minutes until tender but still firm to the bite Drain well. Me.an whde gently heat the cream in another large pan, but do not let it bod Stir in the crayfish meatand cook stirnng constantly for 1 minute, to he.atthrough. Add the noodles and tos.sover low he.at Serve immediately, seasoned wrth pepper and spnnkled with the parsley.

• 1sprig freshthyme

· 1tablespoon oliveoil ·salt

282

Noodleswith walnuts andtr uffles -.t.lL.~' HESCOMr-iU:CES YP:L!F.~

· 1truffle. about l¼ounces • 1eggyolk,lightfy beaten • ih

cup mascarponecheese

• 14ouncesfresh noodles

· 12waloots. shelled. peeled.and chopped • ½- ¼cup grated

Parme$an cheese

Clean the truffle with a small brush and a damp cloth. Stir the egg yolk into the mascarpone v;ith a woodenspoon.Season with salt and p:epper. Bring a largepanof sJltedwater to a boil .Add the noodles. bnng backto a boil . and cookfor a few minutes, until tender but still firm to the bite Drainthe noodfes and toss with the mascarpone mixture Sprinkle with thewalnuts and Parmesan to taste, and grate

a little truffle to tasteover the top.Alternatively,spnnkle thenoodles with \'ery thinly sliced truffle

• salt and pepper

t,.ote. for a delicious variation, crush the walnuts until they are re· ducedto a paste then s.e.as.on them with salt and pepper. and add

a pinchoffreshly gratednutmeganda pmch of ground c,nnamon Stir in a little oil and mix thepasteinwith the drainednoodles before continuing as above.

,,.., ,, . 1 •, ,, ¾·

~

-~ ( 1

4 ,I

•

283

Spaghetti alla carbonara EV~.Gu:-1s A.l.~ ,-+\,L,.I.It~ CO\ B~.CO\ - U:'iOS

• 12ounces(aboot ¼ box)

· 5 ouncesbacon. cut rlto ½-incllpieces

Cookthespaghettiasdesc nbed onpage221.Me.anvih l e. he.attheoil in a skillet. Addthe bacon and cook,stirring occasionally. for about 5 minutes. until tender andcooked through. Removefromthe pan and drain on pa~erto'Nels Oramthe spaghet1iin a large colander and coverwith a dean CLshtowel to pre,•ent i1geHingcold Meltthe

· 6 lablespooos (¾ stick) butler

butterinanothe r largepan.Remo vethepan fromtileheatthenadd

• 4 eggs,,beaten

the baconandeggs followedimmediatelybythe spaghetti.aromatic

• smallpinch of aromaticherbs

herbs.andParmesanStir wel. thentransferto a warmser,..ingdish andserve immediately

spatfletti • 1/r cup oliveoil

• 1cup gratedParm~a n chees.e

· salt

284

Spaghettiwith peasandclams :SFA.Guns CO\ G..IS/.P.. TESy HUH~S

• 12ounces(about 1.4 box) sp,agfletti • 1 pound2 ouncesclams • 5 table$poonSwhitewine • 1 shallot.finely chopped , 1A cup(1/2stick) butter

• scant 1cup chined can~ peas • 1cup grated Parmesancheese

· salt

se,.,,-es4

Cook the spaghettiasdes.mbe d on page221.Meanwhilewashthe clamsin salted water.Discard anywith brokenshellsor anythat do not shut immediately wtien sharply tapped. Put them into a pan. pourin thewine.andadd the shallot. Cover andcookoverh!ghheat shaking the panoccasionally . for 3-5 mmutes.until the shells have opened Removethe pan fromthe heat. Remove the dams with a slottedspoonand reser\'ethe cooking liquid Discardanythat remainclosed Remo \'e the clamsfrom their shells andset aside. Strain the cooking liquid into a bowl througha cheesecloth·lined strarner.Oramthespaghetti.Melt thebutterin another largepan Add the spaghetti dams. peas.reservedcookingliquid and Parmesan. Mixwellandheatthroughbnefly,thentransferto warmserving dish Serveimmediately

285

Spaghettiwith clamsand porcini EV~.Gu:-1sCO\ +\,U,/EJ/.S YS£O.S

• 11/1smallonioM

• 1hate or otherwMe fish heae:l . gilh removed

• 3 cloves gatlic · 1splig freshparsley • 1/r cup dried porcini

or 1ounce fresh • 9 ouncescla.n-6 • 4 tablespoons oliw oi • 9ounces rawshriq) . peeled • 14 ouncescanned choppedtomatotS

• pinch of saffron thre.ads

· 12ouncesspaghetti · salt

286

Cut the halfonioninto wedgesand finelychopthe wholeonion.Put the fish head into a pan with the onion wedges.one of the gartic cloves. and the parsley Pourin waterto CO\'erand bnng to a boil. thenlowerthe heat andsimmerfor about30 minutes.Meanwhi le. if usingdriedporciniput themirltoa smallbowlandpourinwarmwater to cover.Setasideto soak. Finely chopthe remainmggarlicScrub the damsunder coldrunmngwater Discard anywithdamagedshells or anythat do not shut immediatelywhensharply tapped.Heat the od in a pan.Addthe choppedgarlic andthe choppedonionand cook o\'er low heat stirring occasionally . for 8 minutes. until beginning to brown Addthe shrimp dams. and¼ cupwater. cover. andcook for 10 minutes.Discard anyclamsthat remainclosed Meanwhile . dramthe driedporcmi. if usmg Chopthe porani(driedor fresh). Add the porciniandthe tomatoto the pan. andcookfor 5 mmutesmore Strainthe fishstockinto a cleanpan. addthe saffronanda pinchof salt. andbring to a boil Addthe spaghetti.bringback to a boil and cook for !0-12 minutes. until tender but still firm to the btte.Drain andaddto thesauce Tossto coatandserveimmediately

Spaghettiwith peasandporcini £.S:l~Gu:-1s CO\ GUIS~.r.r:s YSET~S

• 12ouncesspaghetti

• 1/r cup (1stick) butter • 1cup & ied po,cini or

2 ounc esfresh • 31/rouncesdrainedcannedl)Eas • 3 ounces Parmesan cheese. grated • salt

ff youare us,ng driedporcini. soakthemasdescribedin reape 285. dramandslice Cookthe spaghettias describedon page221.Melt the butter in a skillet. addthe mushroomsandcookuntil softened

Oramthespaghetb welland addit andthepeasto the ski let and toss Sprinkle with the cheeseand serveimmediately.n us is a dish witha very distinctivetastebut it is atso deficious.

287

Spaghettiwith zucchini ::SFA.GunsCO\ C.r.L.il.SWMS

• 1 pound2 ounceszucchini,

cut into thick sticks • 12ouncesspaghetti • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 1onion. finelychopped

• juioeof½ lemon

· ~nerous 1cupheavycream • ¾ cupgrated cheese.

Cookthe zucchini in p?enty of saltedboilingwater for 2 minutes. . then drain. and refreshunder cold running water Set is,de in a cleandishtowel to dry Cookthespaghettiasdescibedonpage221. Meanwtiile.he.atthe oil in a skillet. Addthe zucchin i andonionand cookO\·erlow heat.stirring occasionally , for 8-10 minutes.Stir in thelemonjuice.Drain the spaghettiwelland addit to thepan. Stir in thecream. se..1son to tasteWiths.alt.and ser\·eimmediately. offenn,g thecheeseseparate ly

such ~ Cheddaror gruyere

• salt se,.,,-es4

288

Spaghetti Bolognese ::SFA.GunsCO\ SHSA.BCLOF.Es.r.

• 12ounces(about1.4 box) sp.agtietti • salt

Bolognesesauce: • 2 tablespoons oive oil • ¼ cup finely choppedbacon

• 1Y,cupsgroundbeet · 1 largeonion.finelychopped

· 1carrol finelychopped • 1- 2 stalks~lery. finely chopped

• pinchotgroundcloves

• 6 tablespoonsc-aMed

tomatopueee • 2 table$poonSwhitewine

• ~nerous 1cup light cream • 1aip grated Parmesancheese

• salt

Sems6

Makethe Bologneses.auce .Heattheod in a pan.Addthe baconand cook O\'erlow heat. stirring occasionally , for 4 minutes Add the groundbeef. onion carrot ce!ery.andclO\·es. seasonwithsalt and cook,stirring frequently tor 10 minutes Stir in the tomatoesand wine.CO\'er . and simmerfor 10 minutes.Meanwhile.cookthe spa· ghetti asdescnbedon page221.DrainweDand stir into the s.auce alongwiththecreJmand Parmesan. Serve immediately.

289

Ravioli R!,,VICLIS

Makethe pastadough asdescribed in recipe 269. shape into a ball. and let rest for 2 hours. Cut it in half and roll ,tout into two very ttun squares Placesmal heaps oi the prepared filling (seethe following recipes) onto oneof the squares. spacing them l inchapar t. Brush the spacesin between the moundsof fillingw,thwaterand brush the second dough square wit h water Placethe second square. damp sidedown.on top of the first square Usea flutedpastawheel to cut

between theravioli, pressing doYin hard to make sure theedgesstick together. Bringa largepanof saltedwater to a boil.Addthe ravioli, in batches. and bring back to a boil. then lower the heat and cook for about 4 mmutes. unti l tender. Oram andrefreshunder cold running water to pre\·ent the ra-inoli sticking. The ravioli arenow ready to be

mixedw1 t hd ;,;uceandbaked Coo k themassoonastheyareready to pre\·ent themdryingout. t,.ote. Re.ad y-maderavioli arewidely ava! able inwhich caseyouneed only to cook them. make the sauce. and then bake them-a n easier and quicker process

290

• 1 pound 2 ounces spinach,

ooarse stalks remowd • 2 ouncesbread. crusts relnO\'ed • 5 tablespoonshot milk • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil • 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion • 1Y, cups bu'lk sausa~

• 1 tablespoon sherry

· 1 egg.5gfltty be.aten • salt

Fillings for ravioli (first version) :i: :1.rnosF/,P.~R!,,\;ICLs Cookthe spinachin salt edboiling waterfor about10minutesOram rt wel. pressingdo'Nnw,th the bacitof a spoonto squeezeout all the water finely chop the lea\'es.Put the bre.adin a boYil add the hot milk and let soak.Heatthe oi in a skillet. Add the oruon and cook overlowheat.stirring occasionally. forabout!Ominutes.until lrgh1Iy brov;ned.Stir in the bulk sausage.Remo\·ethepanfrom theheatand put the meatandonionmixtureinto a bowl Gentlysqueezeout the bre.adandaddit to the bowtalongwith the sherry. egg. and a pinch of salt. Mixwellwrtha woodenspoon. thenJddthe spinach.let the mixturecoolcompletelybeforeusingi1to fill the ravioi .

Ma•escbot.t 35

291

• 1 pound 2 ouncesspinach,

ooarse stalks removed • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 2 leeks. halved lengthwise. andcut into 1-inchlengths. and rinsedwell

• Souncesleanbeef.diced • 1¼ cups bread crumbs • ½ cup gratedgruyere

or P.vmesan cheese · 1 egg.5gfltty be.aten • 1 tablespoon sherry

• salt Ma•escbot.t 35

Fillings for ravioli (secondversion) :i::Lrncs F/,P.~ RA'IICL s Coo>:the spinachin salt edboiling waterfor about10minutesOram rt wel. pressingdo'Nnw,th the bacitof a spoonto squeezeout all the water finely chop the lea\'es.Heat the oil in a skillet Addthe leek and cookoverlowheat stirnngoccas,onally . for 10minutes.Addthe beef.CO\'er . andcookoverlowheat.stirringoccas,onally. for 15-20 minutes Processthe meatmixtureandspinachin a foodprocesso r or grind v;ith a meatgrinder_Put the resultingmixtureinto a boYil with the breadcrumbs.cheeseegg sherry anda pinchof salt. Stir wel until the mixturecomestogether. leave the mixtureto cool comptetelybeforeusingit to fill the ravioli

292

Tomatosaucefor ravioli o:

S+1,.LS+1,. TCM.t;-E. P.t;l::+\, h~.',OJS

• 3 tablespooMsunfloweroil

.4cupchoppedonion

• 1

• 3¼ poundsripetomatoes. seededand walootoil

· 1teaspoonstrong mustard • salt and peppe1

Set•,es!

t,.ote. If youdonot usetheoptionalheadcheese.increasetheamount of duck breast meatby 3 ½ ounces. This filling is also deliaous in cannelloni. Serve the cannelloni on a bed of chopped mushrooms and finely choppedonion lightly cooked in a littl e butter. ft will make themmore succulent.

296

Gnocchi \OQUIS

• 6 ¼ cupsmilk

•7tablespoo,nsbutttr

Bnngthe milkiusttoa bod ina pan.Spnnklein thesemolina flourand cook,stirringconstantly.for 5minutes. Stir in thebutter andcheese. Remo ve thepanfromthehe.atand stir intheeggyolks.oneat a time.

• 11, cup gratedParmesan

Seasonto tasteviithsalt and let cool.Shapethe cooledmixture into

• scant 2 cupssemoinaflour

or gruyerecheese. • 4 egg yolks

· salt

Bedlamelsauce: • 2 tablespoons('A stick) butt:« • 1 tablespoonolive oil

• 1 tablesp.oonall-purpose flour

· 11/,ai psmil • ~nerous 1/r cupMlite wine

• pinchoUr eshlygratednutm;eg (optional)

• salt se,.,,-es6

little ballsabout the sizeof walnuts and placethemin an ovenproof bakingdish that can be usedon the sto\'e. Preheat the broiler. Make the becharnel s.auce .melt the butter with the oil in a pan Stir in the flour and cook. stirnng con.stantly. for 2 minutes.Gradually stir in the milk and then the wine. season wdh salt. and add the nutmeg. rt using. Cookoverlow heat stirring constantly. for 10 minutes. Pour thesauce over thegnocchiand broil lightlybefores.e rving

297

Cannelloni CnElOllES OECHIE

• 12cannellonior manicottitu bes

Thefilling for cannellonican be m.1dein several ways. somemore

or 12sheetsof eggpasta.

expensiVe thanothers. The baseis alwaysmeat- groundbeef.veal.

6x 3 inches

or evenbetter. pork. This can be miXed wrth vanousother in,gred 1· ents suchas fried chicken li\'ers; ground cookedchicken: a cooked lamb's brain foce gras; Serrano . Smithfield . or other dry•rured ham or prosciUtto:andbulksausageTheideai.s to mix the me.atwith one or more ingredien1sthat add fla\·or but do not O\'erpower it. Another deliciousalterna1i\'eis to cook a small finelychoppedonion with a littl e chopped tomatoto makea pas1e.ff usmgcannellonitubes. prepareaccordingto the instructionson the package.Thetypethat doesnot require precookingis the easiestto use.Tomakethe dish a little simpler. you could use 4 cupsgood-qua l ity bottled tomato sauce. ri youlike. insteadof makingthe sauce. but i1should be quite thick io makethe filling heatthe oil in a small skillet Addthe onion and cook (J(erlow heat.s1irnng occasional ly. for about5 mll utes. until sof·tenedand translucent.Sbr in 2 tablespoonsof the tomato sauceand remove from the heat MlXthe onionwdh all the o1her filling ingredientsin a bowl.Drainthe cannellonitubes if necessary. Fillthe tubesusmga teaspoonor dMde the filling amongthe pasta sheetsand roll them up. Put them into an O\·enproofbaking dish. Preheatthe oven to400tf. Makea thin bechamelsauceasdescribed in reape 77 and stir in the remainingtomatosauce.(You can omlt the tomatosauce. if you like.} S1rainthe sauceoverthe cannelloni througha coarsestramer. (Thisi.s not neces.sary d the tomatosauce ha.sbeenomitted) Sprin·kle the gruyere o\'er the top and dot v;ith the butter. Bakefor about 20 minutes until the toppingis golden brov;n RemO\'e the dish from the oven.and let stand for about 5 minutesbeforeserving.

• scant 1cup grat~ • gruyerecheese • 2 tablespoons('A stick) butt:« • ¾ quantityClassicTomato

Sauce(see recipe73) fili ng: • 2 tablespoonsoive oil

• 1 smallonion.finelychopped • 5 ouncescookedgroundbee·f

• 1cookedchicken breast hatt and 1 cooled lamb·s btainor 2 cookedbonelessdlicken

breast halves

• louncefoiegr~pate

Bedlamelsauce: • 2 ta blespooos(1.t stick)rott er • 2 table$poonSsunfloweroil • 2 table$poonSal -purposeflour • 3 cupsmilk or half ni lk half stock

• salt Ma~es12ca:n?loni

Friedcannelloni

298

c.r.M.O\E.SFRl-os

• legg

Sift the flour into a bowland spnnklein a pinchof salt Addthe egg and mixlightly. thengradually stir in the beer.a littl e at a tune. until

• 1bottle of beer.

thebatter hasthe consistency oi a thickbechame l. Heattheod ina

• 1¾o.ips all-purposeflour

at roomtemperature • 4 cups,olive oil

• 12fil ed canneloni or manicotti (see recipe29n ·salt

• 1quantity Ctassic: TomatoSauoe (see recipe13)

Ser,,-est

L

skillet Dipthe fiUedcannelloni. oneat a time into the beerbatter to coat thenplaceintothe hot oil seamsidesdown.Cookuntil golden brown.then remo,·eYtTth a skimmer or slottedspoonOramwell.and keepwarmwhilecookingthe remainingcannelloniSef\•ethe fned cannelloniplainor with tomatosauceofferedseparately.

299

Tuna.egg. and mushroomcannelloni cnno»ES OE.t,T ...M H..E'\'CSJU~OSy C- M,IF!i,O\ES

• 12cannelloni or manicottitu bes

tf usmgthecannelloni tubes. prepare themaccordingto the instruc·

or 12sheets of eggpasta.

tioos on the package . Putthe mushroomsinto a pan wrththe butter

6x 3 inches

and the lemon juice. Co\·er and cookO\'er low heatfor about !O min· utes. He.atthe oil in a skillet Add the onion andcook o\'er low heat

• 31/: ouncescreminimushrooms. chopped

• 11/,tablespoons butter • juioeof ½ lemon • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 7 ouncesonions.fiiefy chopped • 1quantityctassicTomato Sa.uoe (see recipe13) • 9 ounces canned tunain oil or brine. drainedand flaked · 2hatd-cookedeggs.chopped • ½ cup gratedgruyerecheese

• salt Bedlamelsauce: • 2 tablespoons('A stick) butt:«

stirnng occasionally. for about 5 minutes. until softened but not brov;ned. Rerno\'e the pan from the heat and stir in 2 tablespoons of the tomato sauce the tuna. mushrooms and hard-cookedeggs. Season to tastewit h salt Oram the cannelloni tubes. 1f necessary Fillthe tubesusmg a teaspoon or di'iidethe filling amongthe pasta sheetsand roll them up. Put them into an O\·enproof baking d~sh. Preheatthe oven to 400~F. Make the bechamel sauceas described in recipe : 77and stir in 3-4 tablespoons of the tomatosauceto turn rt pink_Pour the bechame l sauceO\'er the cannelloni. spnnkle with thegruyere and dot with the butter. Bakefor about20 mmutes. unbl the toppmg is goldenbrown_Remove the dishfrom the O\'en and let standfor 5 minutesbefore serVing ~ote: You can use fresh or leftover cooked fish insteadof tuna. ff usmg freshfish. poach it first

• 2 table$poonSsunfloweroil • 2 table$poonSal -purpose flour • 2 ¼ cupsmi k or halt milk half stock

se,.,,-es6

., ... .....,

V I;

V

v

,_. V

V

v

V

(.,

v

300

Cannelloniwith leftover ragout C.r.M.O\E.SCO\ U\ REYOOE:i:.~GOLIT

• 12c-ann eJloni Of manicottitubes or 12sheetsof eggpasta. 6x 3 inches • 1pound10ouncesleftover

ragout • 1quantity Classic Bedlamel Sauce(see recipen)

• sc-ant1cupgrated gruye,re dleese • 1t.abl1?$poon butter Ser,,-es6

Canne lloni madewith lefto\·erragout(or meatstew)are delicious and original. Preheatthe O\·ento 400tf Plare one third oi Che leftoverragoutinto a foodprocessorandprocessuntil choppedinto small pieces Usethis to fill the cannelloni. Put the lefto\·erragout into an O\'enproof baking d~sh and placethe tiffedcannellonion top Spoonsomeof the meatsauceoverthem.Pourthe bechamel sauce o,•erthe cannelloni.Spnnklev;ithgruyeredot withbutter. andbake for 20-25 minutesuntil goldenbrown.Switchoff the O\'en.openthe door. andJet thedishstandforabout5 minutesbefores.ervil,g. Serve straight from the dis.h

C.r.M.O\E.SOE:SP!~~-CAS YH..E~OSOUF:OS

301

• 12c-annelloni Of manicottitubes or 12sheetsof eggpasta. 6x 3 inches • 3 Y, pooodsspinadl. ooatsestal.ksremoved • 6 tablespoons(¾stick) butter

• 3 hard-cootedeggs,.chopped • 1cup grat~ gruyeredleese ·salt Bechamelsauce: • 2 tablespoons(¾stict) butter

• 2 tablesp.oonssunfloweroil • 2 tablesp.oons all-purposefloor

• 2¼cupsmilk«halt milk half stock

Ser•1es6

Spinachcannelloniwith hard-cookedegg If usingthecannelloni tubes. preparethemaccordingto the instruc·

tions on the package.Cookthe spmachin s.altedboilingwater for about10minutes.Oramwell.pressingdownviiththebackoi a spoon to squeezeout all thewater.thenfinely chop theleaves Melt4 tab!e· spoonsoi the butter in a skilfet andstir in the spinach. Remo ve the panfrom the heat and addthe hard-cookedeggsandhalf the gru· yere.Drainthe cannellonitubes d necessaryfill the tubes using ate.a.spoon or dividethe fillingamongthe pastasheetsandroll them up. Put theminto an ovenprooibakingd~sh. Preheat the oven to 400tf. Makethe bechamel s.auce asdescribedin recipe 77andpour rt O\'erthe cannelloniSpnnklev;ith the remainingcheeseand dot withthe remainingbutter. Saketor 15- 30 minutes.until the topping is goldenbrown_RemO\'e the dish from the o\'enandlet stand tor about5 minutesbeforeserving.

302

Salmonlasagnawith ratatouille s·o

L+I-S.~\~. o: SHMO~CCM, • 12-14 ounceslasagna • lpOI.Wld 10ouncesthin salmonfillets • 1¼cups thick fish stock

(homemade or bottled)

or wtite 'Mlle

Ratatoui lle: • 7 tablespoonsoliveoil • 2 largeonions.chopped

• 4 ½ poundszuochili . peeled. halved. seeded. and :over low heat stirring occasionally.for about 5 minutes until softened and translucent Add the carrot and cook. stirring frequently. for 10 minutesmore Addthe tomatoandcook stirring occasionally. for 8 minutes then add the wine.bay leaf. thyme. parsley sugar. and garlic Seas.onwrth s.anandpour in2 ¼ oopswater.CookO\·ermed ium heat for ! hour. Removeand discardthe bayle.af.thyme. and parsley Preheatthe ovento 400~f.l et the tomatomiKturecool a littl e. then transfer the mo:tureto a food processoror blenderand processto a puree Put half the Swis.schard nbs into an ovenproof bakingdish and spoon a little of the sauce O\'er them. Addthe remainmg nbs and pour the remaining sauce O\·er them. Sprinklew,th the gruyere and bakefor about15minutes, until the cheeseha.smeltedServe immediatelystraight from the d~sh

BakedSwisschardribs with garlic andparsley PENCAS OEACHGASAl HORNO CONAJOYPERE.JIL

· 51/: pounchSwissctiard • 2teaspooMchopped fresh parsley

• 3 clovesgarlic. finely chopped • 4 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 3 tablespoonsbread a001~ • 2 tablespoons ('A stick) butt:«

• salt se,.,,-es6

Cut out the ribs of the Swiss chardand cut theminto l ½·inch long pieces Put them ll to a pan. pourin water to co\'er. and add a pinch of salt. Bringto a boi. then lowerthe heat. and simmer for about 35 minutes.until tender. Oram well. Preheat the oven to 400i f. l ay the Swiss chard ribs in an ovenproofbakingd~sh and top w,th the parsley.garlic. and oil. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and dot with thebutter 8ake for 10- 15minutes.Serveimmediately.

312

Artichokesin vinaigrett e ALCACHOFAS ENVINAG RETA

• 1lemon.halm

• 12g-tobeartichokes • 3 table$poonSwlite•wine

..;r,egar • 9 tablespoonssunfloweroil

· 1tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

·salt

313

Squeezethe juice from one lemon half and add the juice to a large bowl ofwater. Break off the artichokestalks and removethe coarse outer le.aves Cut off the tips of the remairung lea\·es. Cut the arti· chokes in half lengthwise. and remove and dEscard the chokes Rubthe artichokeswrth the remaining lemon half and place in the acidutatedwater_Bnng a largepan of salted water to a boil. Add the arbchokesand bring back to a boil. then lower the heat cover. and simmer for about 25 minutes unbl tender (i est by gently pulling a leaf. ,t should come away easily.) Oram well. turning the arti· chokesup.s1dedownandpressing downgently Placetheartichokesin a dish, cut Side up. Whisk the vinegar v,Ttha pinch of salt in a bowl. thenwhisk intheoil Pour thevina.1g retteover the artichokes sprinkle with theparsley andserve

Artichokesin sauce ALCACHOFAS ENSAlSA

• 1lemon.halm

• 3Y,- 4 ½ pounds smal )'OI.Wlg g1obeartichokes

• 2 heaping t.ablespooM

Squeezethejuicefromonelemonhalfandaddtheiuicetoalargebowl of water. Cut off and reserve onesUce from the other half Remove the coarseouterteavesfromthe artichokesandcut off thetips of the remainingleaves. Cut the artichokesinto halvesor quarters length·

• 2 clowsga tlic. fiietychopp ed

wiseand removeand discard the choke. Rub the artichokeswith the remaining lemon hatf and placein the acidulatedwater. When all the artichokeshave beenprepared. drain themand put into a pan. which shouldbe deep andnot tooWide Addthereserved lemon slice. bre.ad crumbs. oil. parsley. and garlic. Pour in just enough water to covff .

. salt

add• pinchoi salt.andmixwell 6nngtoa boil overhighheat.then

bre.ad crumbs • 2 tablespoonsoive oil • 1teaspoonchopped

fresh parsley

lov,·erthe heatto medium. cover.andcook for about 45 minutes. until tender. (Testby gently pulling a leaf. rt should come away easily) Serve immediately.

314

Friedartichokesin sauce AlCACHOFAS REBOZAOAS YENSALSA

• 1 lemon.halved

• 12globeartichokes • 1 tablesp.oonall-purposeflOla', plu.sextrafor dusting

• 2¾cupssunfloweroil • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil • 2 onioM, finely chopped

• ~nerous ½ cup fwlelychopped

Serranohamor prosciutto · salt

se,.,,-es6

315

Squeezethe juicefrom onelemonhalf andaddthe juice to J large bowlof water Sreakoff theartichokestalks andremovethecoarse

outerlea\'es.Cut offthe tipsofthe remairungle.aves. Openout the centresoftheartichokes . andremovethechokes. Rubtheartichokes withtheremaininglemonhalfandplacein the acidulatedwater.Srin,g a largepan of s.altedwaterto a boil Addthe artichokesand bring bark to a boil,thenlowertheheat co\'er. andcookfor about35 min· utes,untiltender. ( Testbygentlypullinga leat rt should comeaway easily) Drainwell.turning theartichokesupsidedownandpressing gently. Reserve3 cupsof the cookinghQutdCut the artichokesin half lengthwise.DustYtTth floor andshake off anyexcess.Heatthe sunflowerod in a skilfet Add theartichokesandcookmbl golden brov;n Remo,·e witha slottedspoon.drain Yt'ell. and put intoa sto\·e· top-safecassero l e. Heatthe oliveod in another skillet. Addtheonion and cookO\'erlowheat stirnng occasional ly. for about8 minutes. until lightly browned.Stir in the flour andcook. stirring constantly . for 2 minutes then gradually stir in the reservedcookingliquid. Cook stirringconstantlyfor 5 mmutesthenaddtheham.Seaso n to tastewrthsaltandpoorthesauceO\'ertheartichokes.Bringtoa boil. lov,·er theheat.and simmer tor 10-15 minutes Serveimmediately stra.;ghtfrom thedish

Bakedart ichokes AlCACHOFAS Al HORNO

• 1 lemon.halved

• 12globeartichokes · 2 ½ tablespoonslard (optional) • 4 tablespoonswtiitewine

• sunfloweroi. focdrizzling • 2 teaspooMfinelychopped fresh parsley

• ½ cup breadcrumbs

· salt $e"',-eS6

Squeezethejuicefrom onelemonhalf andaddthe juiceto a large bowlof water Sreak off theartichokestalks andremove the coarse outerle.a ves Cut off the tips of the remaininglea\·es.Cut the arti· chokesin half lengthwiseand removeand discard the chokes. Rub theartichokeswdh the remaininglemonhatfandplacein the acidulatedwater Bnng a largepanof salted waterto a boi. Addthe artichokesandbring backto a boil, then lowerthe heat.cover. and cookfor 30-60 minutes,until tender.( Testby gently pulling a leaf;

rt shou ldcomeawayeasily. ) Preheat theovento350' F.Culthelard. ri using into three piecesand put it into an ovenprooibakingdish with thewtiite wine.Remove the artichokesfromthepanandplace themcut Sideuppermostin thedishwithoutdrainingthem.Drizzle a lrttleoil O\'ere.achartic hokeandsprinklewiththe parsleyandbread crumbs.Bakefor 15mmutesands.erve stra.;ghtfromthedtsh.

316

Artichokes stuffedwith Serranoham ALCACHOFAS RELLENAS OEJAUONSERRANO

• 1lemon.halm

• 12g-tobeartichokes • sc-ant1cup finelychopped

Serranohamor pcosciutto · 21/,tablespoonsbceadetumbs • 1tablespoonMlite wine

· 1tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

• 1dew gartjc (optional). fflety chopped • 1chickenbouilloncube • 2 tablesp.oonssunfloweroil • salt

317

Squeezethe juice from one lemon hatf and add the jwce to a large bowl of water. Break off the artichokestalks and removethe coarse outer lea\·es. Cut off the bps of the remaining lea\'es. Open out the centers of theartichokesand remo,·e the chokes. Rub theartichokes with the remamin,glemonhatf and place in the acidulatedwater Combine the ham. 1½ tablespoons of the bread crumbs. the v;ine. parsley, andgarlic. if using in a bowl Oram the artichokes and fill with the ham mO: ture. Put the arti chokes filling uppermost into a pan just largeenoughto hold them in asinglelayer. Pourinwater to cover Crumble thebouilton cubeand dissol\·e it in alittl e water. then add rt to the pan. SPfinkle the remairu: ng bre.ad crumbs and the oil o\'er theartichokes. Bring to a boil. lower theheat.cover. and sonmer for 30 numrtes. Season with salt ii necessary (bearing in mind that the ham and bouillon cube are both salty). Re-co\'er the pan and cookfor 30 minutesmore, until theliquid hasreduced toa sauceand the artichokesare tender. Serve the arti chokesin a dish v;ith a lrttle sauce in the base.

Artichoke andhamgratin ALCACHOFAS Al HORNO CONJAMON YBECH.AMEL

• 1lemon.halm

• 2 tablesp.oons all-purposefloor

Squeezethe juice from one lemon half and add the juice to a large bowl of water. Break off the artichokestalks and remove the coarse outer lea\·es. Cut off the tips.of the remaining le.aves Op:en out the centers.of the artichokesand remo,·e the chokes. Rub thearbchokes with theremaininglemonhalf and placein the aadulatedwater. Bring alargepanof sattedwater toaboil.Addthelemon rindand artichokes and bring back to a bod. then tov,·er the heat cO\·er, and simmer for

• 2 ¼ cupsmilk

30-60 minutes, un1i1tender. ( Testby gently pulling a le.at;it should

• V,cupgratedgruyerecheese•

come away easily.) Dram well, turning the artichokes upside down and pressinggently Putthe artichokes cut sideuppermost into an o,·enproof baking dish that canbe used on the sto\·e. f dl them with the ham. Preheatthe broiler. Melt the butter with the oil in a pan

• 12g-tobeartichokes • s~ of thinly pared lemonrilld

· sc-antl cupffled.seeded.andchopped • 2 greenbell peppers. seededand dieff

• sunfloweroil for deep-try.,g • 7ounoespotatoes.thinly sJieff

• 2 ¼ poundszuoctjni · 1 teaspoonsugar • 1 egg.lightlybeaten

· salt Se....~6

Heat3 tablespoons of theolive oil in a skillet.Addtheonionandcook O\'er tow heat stirring occasionally. for about 5 minutes. until sof· tenedand translucent Add thetomato. increasetheheatto medium.

and cook stirringoccasionallyand break.1 ngupthe tomatow,th the side of the spoon. for 15minutesmore He.atthe remaining oli\'e oil in a small skillet. Add the bell pepper. cover and cook O\'er low heat stirringoccasionally. for 25 minutes Heatthe sunflower oil in a deep-fryer or saucepan to 350-375' f or unti l a cubeof day-old bre.adbrownsin30 seconds Add thepotatoslicesandcook for5-lO minutes until goldenbrown.RemO \'e with a slotted spoon and dra n wel . Peelthe zucchiri. cut them in half lengthy;ise. and remove the seeds then slice thinly.Put into .apan, pour in just enough water to cover. andbring to a bod l ower the he.at.and s.mmer for 5 minutes. then drain well Stir the sugar into the on.on and tomato mixture Us ng .a slotted spoon. transfer the bell pepper to the onion .and tomatomixture. then add the potato and zucchin,.Season to taste with salt .and cook. stirring const.an tJy for 5 minutes Just before serving. stir the egginto the warm ratatouille t-.ote:This dishcanbe madein advanceandrehe.ated. but donot .add theegguntil just before serving.

347

Zucchini ratatouille with rice PISTO0£ CAlABACiN CONARROZ

• 4 tablespoonstong-grainrice

• 4 tablespoonsoliw oi • 1large onion. chopped • 1dove garlic,finelychopped

• 14 ripetomatoes. peeled. seeded.and chopped

• 3 Y,pooods zucchini. dioed ·salt

Sringa largepanof water to a boi . Addthe rice. bringbackto a bod then lowerthe heat andcooktor about 15-18minutes until tender Oramwellin a largecolander.rinseundercoldrunning water.and dram well again. He.atthe oil in a skillet. Addthe onion and gar1ic and cookoverlow heat stirnngoccasionally.for 2 minutes Addthe tomatoandcook. stirringoccaSt onally.for 5 minutesmore. then add the zucchini.Seasonwiths.altCO \'er. and s1:mm er. stirringfrequently. for 35 minutes. Stir in the rice. thenheat throughgently. andsef\•e immediately t,.ote. ThisdEshcanbemade in advanceandreheated.but do not stir in the rice until ,ustbefore serving.

348

Ratatouille PISTO ESTILO FRANCES

. ih cupoliveoil • U ounoesonions.fine-fychopped • 3 eggplants . peeledandcutinto 1/.a.-inch cubes • 2 green bell peppers. seededand lard or¼cup butt« • generous1 cup hot chicten stock (homemade.canned

or made.;th a bouilon cube) • 1 bouc,iet gami (1 sprig fresh

parsley.1 bay leaf. and1clove garlic tied in cheesecloth)

Sring a largepan of saltedwaterto a boil. Addthe turnipsandcook for 5 m,nutes.Dramwell.Heatthehardciderin anotherpanandcook until rt has reducedby half. then remO\'ethe pan fromthe he.at.Melt the lardor butter in a heavypanor OutchO\'enAddthe turmpsand cookoverlowheat stirring occasionallyfor about5 minutes. until lightly browned Pourin the hardcider andstock add the bouquet garni, and seasonto tastewiths.altand pepper.CO\'erandsimmer o,·er verylowheat for 30 minutes.RemO\'fthe bouquetgarni. Serve immediately , garmshedwrthchoppedparsleyd youlike.

• salt and pepper • choppedfreshparsley (optional)

Ser,,-esC

427

Glazedturnips NABOSGLASEAOOS

• 2 ¼ poundsturnips..sJioed • 5 tablespoons buttu

· 1 teaspoonsugar

• salt Sen·esC

Put the turnipinto a pan. pourin just enoughwaterto cover.andadd the butter. sugar. Jnd a pinch of salt. Cooko,•er medium-lowheat for 20 minutes. until the waterhas evaporatedServeimmediately asan accompan i mentto meat

Cucumber

Origin andseason Cucumbersha\·egrownwild in the foothills of the Himalayasfor 6.000 yearsand. althoughnobodyreallyknowshow. theyappeared in ancient Egypt. wheretheywerea favorrte \·egetableofthe phar· aohs. ihe celebratedRomangourmetApiciusim·ented a rec,pe basedon cucumberwith honey. od. andeggs Thebestcucumbers are availablefromearly summerto earfy fall. as thts is usuallythe periodof leastrainandthecucumbershave lotsof flavorandarenot bitter Hov,·ever. the seasonis frommid spnng to midfal .

Selection Choosefirm curumberswithoutanyblemishes.Theskinshould be shinyandsmoothexceptin thecaseof ridgedcucumbe rswhichhave a naturally knobbyskirt Try to find cucumbersthatare not too fat as theywil have fewerseeds.

Nutrition Cucumbers containabout15caloriesp:er3 ½ ounces A light food. theyarea sourceof mineralsand vitaminsbut aredifficultto digest. Theskin containsa bitter laxative substancethat could causeirrita· tionto the intestinalwall. soit is advisableto peelrucumbersbefo re eatingthem

Tricks • Peelrucumbers from he.ad to tail in order to avoidthe brttemess

thatcansometimes beg,venoif •io drawoutsomeoftheir water.s6cecucumbers. then sprinkle viiths.alt.and let stand. Alternatively.put the slicesin a dishtowel and twist ,t. pressinghard sothat thewateris releasedandthe cucumber is readyto beseaso ned • Cucumber makesa goodfacemaskfor odyskin tohelp clo.sethe pores. Processthe fleshin a food processor with a pot of plain yogurt Leavethe maskon for about 10minutesand rinse off

viithwater

428

Cucumbe rs for salads PEPINOSPARAENSALADA

• 4 cucumbers

• !quantity Vinajg,-ette (see recipe98) • 1tablespoon choppedfresh parsley(optional)

Ser,,-es!- 6

429

Choosecucumbers that are very green and firm Peeland thinly slice. then sprinkle with salt and let stand for at least2 hours. Rinse well and pat dry. then put the sliceson a plateandsprinklew,th the \'inaigrette and chopped parsley.if using.Chill in the refngerator until ready to serve Theslicescan IJe served alone or mtXed with tomatoesand bell peppers.

Cucumbe r boatswith salad BARCAS OEPEPINOS CONENSALADllLA

• 6 cucumbers • 1small onion.chopped

· 2 d ovesgari c. chopped • 9 ouncesrawshriq, . shellson

• 3 Mmtomatoes.:for 5 minu1esmore Addthe mushrooms and tomatoandcookfor 5 minutes.Removeanddiscard the parsley sprigs. bayleaf.andgarlic. Pourthemixtureintoa warmserving dish. dnzztew,th the remairung oil. and spnnklewrththe choppedparsley. Mixwelland chill in therefrigerator beforeserving

473

Stuffed mushrooms CHAMPl~ONES RELLENOS OEUNPICAOITO CONCi-lALOTA

• 4 lar~ flat cap mushrooms

• 2 shallots.chopped • 2 tablespoonsoliveoil • juioeof ¼ lemon • salt

Se•ves4

474

Use large flat-capmushrooms.tor stuffing. Separatethe caps and stalks. and chop the stalks. Heat the oi in a small skillet. Addthe stalks and shallotsand cookover low heat.stirringoccasio nally.for about 5 minutes. Seasonwith salt. stir in a few drops of the lemon Juice and cook for 5- 8 minutesmore. Oi\'idethe filling among the mushroomcapsand then bakeasin recipe470.

Mushroombrochettes BROCHETAS DECHAUPl~ONES

· 1 pound2 ounces wflite m~hrooms • 9 ouncesbacon. in thickslices.if available

• 7 tablespoonsoliw oil • ½ teaspoonfre$h

rosemaryleaves • salt and pepper

Preheatthe broiler. Separatethe caps and stalksof the mushrooms (thestalks canbekeptto makesoop).Cutthebaconinto strips about ½ inch wide. Put the oil into a bo'NI.add the rosemary. and se.ason with salt and pepper Mi>:well ihr e.adthe mushroomcaps onto skev,·ers alternatingwith piecesof bacon.Srush the brochetteswith the oi minure Cookunder the broiler. turningand brustung with moreoil occaStonally, for about15 minu1es. until cookedthroughand tender. Serve immediately

Se•ves4

~ote: Thebrochettescan alsobe cookedon a gnll setto medium.

475

Mushroomswith rosemary CHAMPll'klNESALROMERO

• 1 pound2 OLl'IOE'S

targe nish~

• juice ot 1/:lemon • ¼ cup (1/: stick) butter

• generous 1/:cup W4f fnely chopped Serranoham Of prosciutto (optional)

• 2 sprigsfreshrosemary. SeavestemOto'eda,d choRJed • salt andpepper

476

Separatethe mushroom stalks and caps. Sprinkle the caps with lemon juice andchop the stalks Melt ¼ tablespoonof the butter in a skillet or pan. Add the stalks and cook, stirring occasionally for 6- 7 minutes If usmg the ham. addrt to the panafter about 3 minutes and cook with the mushroomstalks Season with salt and pepper. remo\'e the mo:ture from the pan. and set aside. Put the mushroom caps into a skillet gills.des up. Se.asonwith salt andpepper. cover. and cook over low he.at for l minute. Drain off and reser\·e the liquid releasedby the mushrooms return the pan to the heat and cookfor 10minutesmore. until tender. (Checkby piercinga mushroom with the tip of a knife- at should penetratebut the mushroom should feel firm.) Fill the capswith the chopp:ed mix ture. Mix the rosema ry with the remainingbutter. put it in a panwith thereserved cook.ing jUices. and cook over tow heat. stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon or whisk Pour the rosemary sauceover the mushroomsand serve immediatel y.

Rawmushroomsalad ENSAlAOADECHAMPIA:ONES CRUDOS

• 1 pound10 ooooesmLtSJl room.s • 6 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• juice ot 1lemon

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• salt and pepper Se...,es !- 6

Separate the mushroom capsand stalks. Slice the stalks and caps and put into a bowl. Pourin the oil andlemon juice. seas.o n with salt and p:epp:er. and mix.well. Sprinklewrth the parsley and chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours beforeserving

477

Milk cap mushrooms NiSCALOS

• 1 pound2 ouncesmilk cap

n-...shrooms

• 11/:tablespoonsoive oil • 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• 1clovegaric. wry finelychopped

• salt

Separatethe mushroomstalksand caps. Discardthe stalks Wash the capsundercold runningwater. rubbing eachside carefullywith your fingersto remo\'e anye.arthor sand. Cutthemintolargepieces and put them into a skillet with no addedoil. Co\·erand cook over mediumheat shakingthe panoccasionallyfor 10minutes.Dramoff theliquidreleasedbythe mushroomsSeasonwith salt.drizzle with theoi . andspnnklewiththe parsleyandgarlic Mixv,·ellandcookover lowheat.stirringoccasionaUy for 3 minutes.Ser\'eimmediately

Se•ves4

~ote. Milk cap mushroomsareusuallyusedto garmsh a meat dish. but if they are served as a first course allow 9 ounces per serving. tf mdkcap mushroomsareavailable ttusrecipe viill work v,·ell with otherwild mushroomvanebes.

478

Wild mushroomsin sauce SETAS ENSALSA

• 3 tablespoonsoliin oil • 2 shallots.friely chopped • ~nerous finelychopped ½ cup

Serranohamor !YOSCiutto • 2¼ poundswild m.ishroo.m,

such~oeps.cut into tar~pieces • 6 tablespoonssherry

• 3 tablespooMlight cream • sat and pepper

se,.,,-es4

lieat theoil in a largeskillet Addtheshallots andcook overtowheat. stirnng occasionally for about 8 minutes until beginningto brown Addthehamandcook. sbrnng frequently.for 2-3 minutes.then add themushrooms.Cook.stirnngoccas10nally, forabout 8 minutes.until lightly brownedAddthesherry andcookfor8 minutesmore Sea.son to tastewith salt and pepp:er Pourthe creamover the mushrooms and heat through. stirring constantlybut do not let the creamboil. Serveimmediately

479

Stuffed porcini SETASG!!ATINADAS

• 24 large porcinimushrooms • ½ cup oiYe oil.

plus extra for brushing • 2 shallots.chopped

• 6 sprigschoppedfresh parsl:thes.almon on abarbecue brushboth sideswdhoil To makewatermelonjuice processchunksof watermelonand stram

Salmonwith orangevinaigrette SALMON CONVIMAGRETA OEHARANJA

• 1cup oliveoil • 4 salmon fillets

• salt

Vinaigrette: • 10 thinsic e$ol shalo t • ½ oran~ • 2 tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar • 2 tablespoonsoliveoil

• salt

635

Pourtheoil into a largenon-meta l d~sh andadd the salmonfillets turningto coat let marinateturningoccasionally for about20 min· utes. Prehe.atthe br01ler.Brushthe broilerradt with a little of the 011 from themannadeanddiscardthe remaining mannadeSe.a.son thesatmon filletson bothsidesand cookunder thebroiler for about 4 minuteson e.achside. until the flesh flakese.a.s Ily Meanwhile. preparethe \'inaigrette Squeezethe juice from the orangeand cut three strips of zest from the nnd. avoidingthe pith. Chop the zest finely. Combmethe juice. ba•samic vinegar 011.and a pinchof salt ina bowl Stirin theshallotsandorangezest.Servethe salmonin a warmservingdishandofferthe \'ina.;grette separately

Bakedred mullet SALIIONETES Al HOP:NO

• 6 red mullet or snapper,7 oun.oes each.scaledand d eaned

Preheattheo\'en to 350' F Seasonthe cavitiesof thefish with salt Slashthefishon eithersideoi thebackbones with a sharpknrfeand

· 6 lemonslioes . halved

mmt ahalfsficeoflemon intoeachcut.Pour theoilmtoan ovenproof

• 4 tablespoonsoliveoil

bakingd~shandaddthe fishin a singlelayer. lightly s.e:1-son withsalt pourthe lemonjuice over.anddot with the butter. Bakefor about 15 minutes until the flesh flakes easily. and serveimmediately straight fromthedish

• juioeof 1 lemon • 6 tablespoons(¾stick) butter • salt

636

Redmulletcookedin packages SALWONETESAL HOl!NOENVUELTOS ENPAPEL(PAP1.-LOTES)

• 6 red mullet Of snapper.about 7 ounceseach,scaledandd eaned

• 6 tablespoonsoliveoil • ½ teaspoondried nixed

hertis or 6 sprigsfr~ h thymeor fennel

· 1 largeonion. wry finely chopped · salt $e"',-eS6

Preheatthe ovento 350tF.Cut out so:S-Q uaresof parchmentpaper or Jlummum foil w,th sides2 incheslongerthanthe fish, thencut into heart shapes.Seasonthe fish insideand out wrth s.alt.Brush thesheetswith someof the oil. brushboth sidesof eachfish with oil. andplaceeachfish. with the tail pointingdoYinalongoneedge of the sheet Sprinkle the dned herbsOYEfthe fish and put a fresh herb spng into each caVY ty. OiVide the onionamongthem. fold the foil or baking paperin half oVe r the fish andsealthe edges. Put the packagesonto a bakingsheetandbake for about15minutes.Serve the fish in a dish v;iththe pactageshalfopen. ~ote. This dish hasthe advantagethat the fish canwartqurtesome timebeforebeingservedwithout dryingout Also the smellof fishis not sostrong.If youuseparchme nt. it might requirea shorter cook· ing timethan foll

637

Red mullet baked with breadcrumbs andranciowine SALMONETES ALHOPNOCONPANRALLAOO YVINORANCKl

• 6 red mullet« snapper.ab0tl17 OI.WICl'S each.sc-aledand cleaned • 4 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 1small onion. wry OOety chopped • juioe of½ ~mon

• ¾cup rancio-stylnrine

Preheatthe oven to 350~f Sea.s on the fish with salt inside and out and slash on erther side of the backbones wtt h a sharp knife. Pour the oil into an O\'enproof bak.mg dish and sprinkle in the onion. Add the fish in a s,ngle layer and pour the lemon juice and wine over them. Spnnkle with the bre.adcrumbs anddot v;ith the but1er.Bake for about15minutes. until the fish arebrowned Sen·e immediately straight fromthedish

suchasn-..sc-atel • 2 tablespoonsbreadcrumbs • ¼ cup (¼ stick) OOtter

• salt

638

t,.ote A tawny brown.rich uruquely flavored wine v;ith a full aroma of O\·erly npe fruit. rancio v;inesarewood·a.ge d and he.atedfortified wines. such asMadeira Vino rancio. or rancio-style. i.s not rancid. as the name suggests . but is madeby aging the wine in barrels left in thehot sun which gi\'esit a unique fruity flavor.

Broiled red mullet with greenmayonnaise SALIIONETES EMPANA.00S A LAPARRILLA. CONSALSAMAYONESA VERDE

• 1cup oliveoil

• jui~ of 1 lemon • 6 red mullet« snapper.ab0tl17

ounceseach.scaledandcleaned • 11/,cupsbreadcrumbs • salt

• 1quantity GreenMayonnaise

(see recipe107) Se"i@S 6

Combine theoi and lemon juicein a dish Season the fish w,th salt insideand out andadd to the dish. turning to coat let mannatein therefngerator. turning occaStonally,for 2 hours. Preheatthebroil er. Oram the fish and coatthemin the breadcrumbs. Brushthebroiler rackwith a littleof themarinadeand dEscard theremairungmarinade Put thefish on therack. andcoo>:underthebroil er for about10min· utes on each side. until the flesh flakes easily. Ser\'e immediately, offeringthe mayonnaiseseparately.

639

Sardinescoated in egg andfried SARONASRESOZAOAS CONHUEVO YFRITAS

• 3 ¼ pound.s freshsatdines

or sprats.scaled,cleaned. and boned

• sunfloweroil. for deep-try.,g • ¼cup all-purposeflour

• 2 eggs. ljgtltty beaten • 1 lemon, cut into wed~s

· salt Se".-es6

64 0

Open out the fishand lightly seasonwith salt on both s des.Heat theoil in a deep-frye r or deepskilletto 350-375°For untila cubeoi day-oldbreadbrownsin 30 seconds.Coateachfish first in the flour. holdingit by the tail andshakingto remO \'e anyexcess.and then in the beatenegg Addto the hot oil. in batches.andcookuntil golden brown.Remove with a slottedspoon,drainwell.andkeep warmwhile you cook the remairung batches.Garnishwiththe lemon wedgesand serveimmediately.

Baked sardineswith white wine andbreadcrumbs SARONASAl HOR NOCONVINOBLANCO Y PANRAL...AOO

• 5 tablespoonsoliveoil

Preheatthe oven to 350°F Pourtheod into anovenproofbakingdish

• 3 1A pound.s largefresh sardines

Lightlyseasonthe fish with salt on both s.desandput theminto the dishin a singlelayer. Pour in the wine and lemonJuice. spnnklewith theparsleyandbreadcrumbs. anddot v;iththe butter_Bake. basting occa.sonally. forabout15m,nutes.until the fteshflakeseasily. Serve immediatelystraight from the dish

or sprats.scaled,cleaned. andboned , 1h

cup white wine

• ;uice ol 1/,lemon · I tablespoon Gllopped fresh parsley • 3 tablespoonsbreadcrumbs. • 3 tablespoonsbutter

· salt Se".-es6

641

Bakedsardinesstuffedwith spinach SARDINAS Al HORMO REll..ENAS DEESPINACAS

• 3 ¼ poundsspinach.

oo.vsestalks removed • 7tablespoMbutter • 3 ¼ poundslargefreshsardines

or sprats.scaled.cleaned. andboned

• 4tablespoonsoiwoil • 2 tablespoonsbre.adcrumbs

• salt

642

Preheatthe ovento 350 tF Cookthe spin.ach as describedonpage 315 Drainwell. pressingoutasmuchliQUid aspossib te withtheback of aspoon.thenchop.Melt6 tablespoonsof thebutterina skillet. add the spinach and cook.stirringoccasionally for 5 minutesSeasonto tJste withsalt Remove fromthe heatandkeep warm. Put the fish on a work surface skm side down. UghtJyseason Yiiths.altand divlde the spinachamongthem. then roll up the fish. Pourthe oi into an o,·enproofbakingdlsh. makingsure that the base1s covered.Put the rol ed·up fish into the dish in a singlelayer.sprinkle with the bread crumbs. and dot Yiiththe remairung butter Bakefor 15minutesthen serveimmediatelystraight from the dish

Sardinesin pastry packages SARDINAS ENHOJAS OEBRICK

• 12cannedsardinesor !Scannedsprats.drained • 4 shettsof brik or puff pasby or 8 sheetsof phylo pasby.

thawed if frozen

.4cup(½ stick) butter. melted

, 1

• 4 smalltomatoes. peel~ seeded.andchopped

• 6 fresh basil le.M's, chopped • 4 doves garlic.finety chopped

Preheatthe o,·en to 400°f. Removethe ba~bones from the fish. flakethe ftesh,and set astde.Spreadout the pastry sheetson a work surfaceand brush with some of the melted butter ff usng phytlo. put the sheetstogether in pairs at an angleto eachother Dividethe flakedfish. tomato basil. andgarlic amongthe p3.strysheets.Gather up the edgeslike money pouchesandt e eachwith a chi\'e. Brusha bakingsheetwith someof theremainingmeltedbutter and placethe packageson rt Brush them al over wrthmeltedbutter andbakefor about 20 minutes. Lllhl goldenbrown. Serve the packageson a bed of dressed mLX ed salad greens.garnishedwith thelemonwedges.

• 4 fresh chiins

• 1 lemon.cut intowedges • ni xedsaladgreensdressedwith anoif andlemonvinaigrette

Se".-es!

t,.otes Brikis the nameof a NorthAfncandishmadewrtha \'eryflaky pa.stryThis pastry(alsoknov;nasmalsouQa . wasqa, and ouarka) is extremely difficult to make but is availabte from specialist stores Phyllopastry andpuff pastryaregoodatternati\·esor youcould e\·en usewonton Yirappers. which are avalablefrom Chinesesupermar· kets When theyarein seasonusefreshsardinesfor this dish

64 3

Friedtrout tRUCHASFRITAS

· 6 troul about5 ounceseach

Scale andclean the trout then wash.and pat dry Season inside and

• lcup nilk

out withs.alt andlet stand for about 10 minutes to allowthe s.al1to soak in Heatthe oil in a deep·fr)•eror deep skillet Dip the fish first in the milk. and then in the flour Add the fish to the hot oil. in batches

• ¼o.ip all-purposeflour

• sunfloweroil for deep-frying

· salt 5e...,-es6

of two. for about 10minutes Drain andkeep warm whlle you cook theremainingfish Serveimmediately garmshedwrthlemon v,'edges ri youlike t-.ote:Choosetrout that weighabout 5 ounceseach(smaller onesdo not have much flesh andlargeronesdonot fry v11 ell)

644

Troutwith hamandbell peppers tRUCHASCONJAMONYPM ENTOS

• 4 trout.cleaned

• 11ouncescanned red bel ptppers. drainedandcut into strips • lchile, seededandcut into pieoes • 4 thWIslicesofSerranoham or prosciutto • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 1 clovegarlic.finelychoppecl • 1 tablespoonwhite-winevinegar

or Semonjuice

· salt

Preheatthe O\'en to 400~F Season the trout with salt and pepper. Oi\'ide the bell pepperand the chile among the slices of ham_Roll up eachsliceof ham andput oneins;de the ca\'ity of each fish. Put the trout into an ovenproof ca.sse ro!ethat can be usedon the stove in a single layer Pour the oil O\'er them and sprinkle wrththe garhc. Season with sail andbake for about 12minutes. until the fleshflakes easily Transfer the trout to a warm serving dish. Add the vinegaror lemon juiceto thecasseroleandbring themixture toa boil. then pour rt over the trout. and serve immediately.

Seatrout poached in specialquick stock

645

TRUCHAASALMONAOA ENCALDOCORTO ESPECIAL • 2 tablespoons(I/,stick) butter

Mel1thebutter wrththe od ina deepskillet Add thecarrot. Qrlj Qfl, and

• 2 tablespoonsofiw oil

baconandcookorertow heat.stirnng occasonally,for 10 mill.ltes

• 1/,cup chopped c-arrots

b ghtly sea.s on with salt and p:epper and add the mixed herbs. Stir

• 1onion. chopped

in the wine a1d 2 l/, cups water. bring to a bod lov,'ff the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Strain the stock into a bowl and let cool. Se.ascnthe tr outins deand out with salt andl etstandfor about 10mi nutes RemO\'e the rack fran a fish poacher. Pour in the stock, put the trout on therack. and return therack to thefish poacher. The fishshouldbecornp?etelycoveredin liquid.CO\'f'l thefish poacherand set O\'er \'ery lowheatso that the s to::kisbarely s mmenng.Cook for about 15minutes until the flesh flakes e.asdy. Placea folded napkin in a serving dish, add the trout and serve immediately, offenng the hollandaises.auceseparately

• 1 sliceof smobd bacon. chopped • pinch of dried mixed herbs

• 2¼cupswhite wine

• lseattout .«salmon oucti c: char fillel about 1 pol.l'l d 2 ounces. scaledandcleaned • HollandaiseSauce

(see recipe84) • salt and pepper Se...,es3

t,.ote Thls stock is alsosuitable for s.almon s.eabassor grouper

Troutwith ham. almonds.andgarlic

646

TRUCHAS CONJAMON.ALMENOf!AS YAJO

· 6 trout.about 9 dry-tlitewine • 3 tablespoonsbrandy

• 2 vef}'ripetomatoes. seededandchopped

• pinch of dried mixedherbsor

1 boU(Jletgami (1 clovegarlic, 1 sprigfresh parsley.1 sprig fresh thyme. and 2 bayleaves

tied togetherin cheesecloth) • pinch of C¥Me

pepper

Heat theoil in a pan Add the carrot.onion andshallot cover.and cookover lowheatfor 5 minutes.Addl cupwater.re-co,•er. andcook for 10m.nutesmore.Meanwhile. preparethecrayfishas described on page536. Put themintoa skillet with thewineanda pinchof salt cover. and cook O\'er h,,ghhe.atuntil they changecolor_Warmthe brandyin a smallpanfor a fewseconds.,gnrte1t. andpour it CYYer the crayfish, stirring unt,I the flameshavedied down. Remove the pan from the heatandsetaside.Addthe tomatoto the panof vegetables andcook,stirring occasionally andbreaking it up with thesideof the spoon. for 5 minutes Addthe crayfishmixtureand dned herbs or bouquetgarni, season with pepper. and cook for about5 minutes. then remove the crayfish with a slotted spoon and keepwarm Cookthe saucefor 10minutesmore.then pa.ssit through a strainer into a clean pan pressmgdownhard and addinga htt!e hot waterri necessary.Add the cayennepepper.season to tastewrth salt and add the butter andcrayfish.Sprinklewith the parsley andcook for a fewminutesmore.Sen·eimmediately.

• 2 tablespoons(¼stick) butter • 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley • salt andpepper

Se",-esC

655

Crayfishomelet TORJILLA OECOLAS OECANGqEJOS OERIO

• 6 crayfish. thawedif frozen • 1½ tablespoonsbutter

• 2 eggs • 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

Cfeanandcookthe crayfish asdescribedon page536. then remove the heads and peelthe tails If the tails arelarge.cut theminto twoor threepieces.Men the butter in a pan Addthe crayfish seasonwith salt and pepper. and cook. stirring occasiona lly for l -2 minutes. bghtly beatthe eggswitha pinchof salt.He.atthe oil in a skillet pour in the eggsandcook as describedon page422 Oramthe crayfish andsprinklethemO\'erthe omelet then fold the omelet and slide it

outofthe1),1 0. Serveimmediately

Mediterranean shrimp Also known as crevettes. theseEuropean shrimp are not quite so largeor sofine aslangoust.nes (lobsterettes). They are\'ery goodfor soupsand canbe ser\'edas a lessexpensi\'e substitute for langous· tines Remo ve their heads beforecooking,asthey ha\'e a very strong flavor. and cook in the sameway as langoustines as descnbed in page 552). Any jumbo shnmp would be a good substitute and royal redshrimp would be perfect.

656

Crevetteandasparagusfan ABANICO DECARABINE ROSYESPARP:AGOS

• 24 asparagusspe.vs. trimmed

• 24 rawcrewtttes.orotherlarge shrimp, shel son andheads

attached.ifavailable S.UCe : • 2 tablespoonsolive oil • 1 onion. chopped

• 1 carrot. chopped

• 1/,cup white wine

• 4 cupsheavycream • lbou(Jletgami (1 sprig freshthyme. 2 bay leaves.and1 sprig freshparsley tied togetherWI cheesecloth)

· 2 sprigsfreshtarragon • 3 tablespoonsbutter (optional)

• salt andpeppe:r

Se".-es6

Bring a pan of salted water to a boil. add the asparagus with the tips pomting upward. cover. andbring back to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for about l5 minutes until the asparagusis tender. Remove the pan from the heatbut lea\'e the asparagus in the water Meanwhile. bring another pan of salted water to a bod Add the crevettesand cookfor 3 minutes thendram v,·ell. Remove the heads. ri available. and peel the crevettes. Pound the shells and heads. ri us ng. into a mortar or processin a mll i·food processor. Heatthe oil in a skillet Add the crushed shells Jndhe.ads . if usmg. andcook. stirnng frequently. for 3-4 minutes Add the oruon and carrot and cook, stirringocca.sonally. for 3 minutesmore. Pour ll the wine and cook until reduced by half. Stir in the cream. add the bouquet gami and tJrragon. andcookover lowheat for 30 minutes Passthe sauce through a food mill into a clean pan. If it seemstoo thin. cook untJ. I reducedto the desired consistency (You could also stir in 3 table· spoons butter to thicken it). Season to tastewrth salt and pepp:er. add the cre\·ettes. and he.at through Placethe asparagusspears and crevettesalternately on a warm serving dish andsen·e immediately accompaniedby the sauce

Langoustines l angoostinesarealsoknownaslobsterettes. Dublin B.a y prav;ns and in someplaces. asscampi, especially whendeep-tried.

Howto cook 8ring a large pan of salt ed water to a boil Add the langoostines . makingsure that they are fully immersed When the water comes bact toa boil. remO\'f the pan from the heat. and let cool for 8 minutes. Lift out thelangoustinesdrainwell.andserve cold

657

Langous t ineswith mayonnaiseandlangoustines with vinaigrett e CIGALAS CONMAYONESA YCIGALAS CONVINAGRETA

• 2 x 1½ poundstangoustines • !q uantity Classic MayoMaise (seerecipe105) « Vinaigrette (see recipe98) • 1 tablespoonfinely chopped fresh parsley(optional)

• 1 tablespoonfwlely chopped

scal ion(optional) • 1 tablespoonbrandy(optional)

To s.e rve with mayonnaise. cook the langoustines as described on page540 and serve cold. offering the mayonnaJse separatel y To serve wit h vinaI.g rette. make a satpic6n the night beforeit is required To do this. takethe vinaigretteand add the onion, parsley. hard-cookedegg and brandy Season to tastewrthsalt and pepper Cook the langoustinesas descnbed on page540 and let cool. then

remove the meatfrom the tails and cut intoslices about ¾ llch thick. Put the slicesinto a deep dish. pour the s.alJ]lc6n over them. and leavein therefrigerator for 3-5 hours Serve cold.

• salt and pepper

se,.,,-es4

~ote. Th~s dish can be madewrth shnmpra1herthan langoustines. le.aVi ng thepeeledshnmpwhole. ft canalsobemadewit h lobster. for whichallow l lobster. Yte(ghmg about 1pound5 ouncesfor 2servings.

Shrimp How to cook Sring a largepanof s.altedwaterto a boil Add the rawshrimp, lower theheat.andsimmerfor 2-4m mutes. dependmgontheir size.Oram welland le1cool.

658

Shrimp cocktail C0CTELDEGAMBAS

• 3¼ pourlls rawshrimp

• l large lettuce • 1quantityMayoona~ewith 1omatoand8tandy

(see recipe108) • 1 han:1 -cooled egg.

mety chopped • salt

Cookthe shrimp as descnbedabove Drain wellandlet cool.Shred thelettuceandpeel theshr1111 p Makea bedof lettucein the baseof

sixchampagneglasses or sundae dishesandtop each withl table· spoonof the mayonna 1s.e Otvide the shrimp amongthe glassesor dishesandcover them with the remainingmayonnaise Sprinlde with the hard-cooked eggand chill in the refrigeratorfor 1-2 hours before

serving.

659

Fish andshrimpsalad ENSALACli'. DEPESCAOO YGAMBAS

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh nint

Heathalf the od in a skillet Addthe shrimpandchile and cookover mediumheat. stirring occasio nally, for a few minutes,until the shrimp areopaque.Remove fromthepan drainwell.andset aside. Steamthe kingkfipfillets for 3 m.nutes. Cut the shnmp into pieces and flake the fish andcrabmeat.Put into a bowlv,ith the remaming oil.andthelemonjuice. andmint.seasonv;ithsaltandpepper. and let mannatein therefngerator io serve. makea bedoflettuceon

• 1 lettuce. shredded

a rounddishandput thefish mixtureon top Pourthe marinadeover

• salt andpe:pper

thesaladand serve

• 6 tablespoonsdive oil • 12Iargeshrimp.peeled

• 2 stripS,ofdl ile • 5ounceskillglcip fillets • 5ouncesprecooked crabmeat

• ;uiceof2 1emons

Se".-es .i r-.ote:Kingkfip, also called congrio. is an eel-like fish with pink. orange brownor blackmarkings. It canbe found off the coastsof South AmericaandSouthAfrica If you can'tfind it. useanotherfirm· fleshed.mild fishsuch asmonkfish

salmon wrthbutte< 630 Ov€n·roas!ed

636 Red111.Jllet cooked inpackages 641 Baked sardines stuffed withspinach 647 Navarra troutwith ham 651 Fishe: ture. Fold in theere.am anddividethemixture amongfour individual molds. Cover and chdl in the retngerator for 6 hours until set.Melt the butter in a skitm et Add the leek and cook aver low heat stirnng occa.s 1onally. until crisp-tender.Se..1son wit h salt and p:epp:er.Turnthemousseout of themoldsonto individual platesandsurround eachone v;ith s1rips of leek. Sprinklethe almondso\'er the moussesands.e r\'e.

• salt and pepper Se"i@S!

t,.ote. tf usingplastic molds. brush them with a lrttle oil to mat.e it easier to turn out the mousses If the molds are not plastic. put aluminum fod in the baseof each one.

663

Lobster with bechamelsauce lANGOStACONBECHAMEL Al HOR NO

• 2 lo~ters. about1 pound5 ounceseach • generous1/,cupbutter , 2 1A cups,hot milk

• 1 heapingtablespoon all-purpc,S,e flow • a pa'ldl of curry powder • 1 largetruffle. thinly sfi~

· 2 eggyolks • ;uiceof I/, lemon • 1h cupgratedParmesan cheese

· salt Quickstod::

• 1 canot. thickly slioed

• 1 coon wedge

• 1 bouquetgami(1sprig fresh thyme. lbayleaf . 1 sprigfreshparsleytied

togetherindleesedoth) • 5tablespoonsdry-tlitewin e

• 6 black peppercorns

· 1 teaspoonsalt

Se".-es .i

Pour4¾ quartswater into a pan,add all the stock ingredients.and

cookthelobstersasdescribed onpage546.WhenChelobstershave cooled.cut them in half lengthwiseCut off the legs and break off the claws loosen the me.atin the tail and remove the black intes· tin.altracts.RemO\'f and reserve the tomalleyandanyroe fromthe headsandremO\'eand discard the stomachsac 8reak theclawsinto piecesat the joints and crackthem open.Placethe lobsterhalves. cut sides uppermo.st. in a largestO\'etop-safedish_Put the tomall ey. roe claws and legsinto a panwith 7 tablespoonsof the butter.Heat gently s1irringand bre.akingup the lobsterp,ecesas muchas po.s· sible Whenthe butterbeginsto froth. addthe milk andbringto.aboil Strain through a cheesecloth·linedstrainer into a bowlandreserve Twistthe cheesec l oth to extractany remainingliquid Let stand for l5minutes then skimoff anypinkcolored butterthat hasrisento the surface. and set thebutter asidein a bowl.Melt the remainingbutter in a pan. Stir in the flour andcook. stirnng constantly. for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the stra ned mtlk. a little at a t.me. Cook, stirring constantly.for about 10minutes. then s.e.a.son to tastewith salt and add the curry powderand truffle Graduallystir in the reserved pink butter Remove the pan from the heat. Preheat the br01lerLightly beattheeggyolksand lemonjuicein a bowlJndstir in J fewspoonfuls of thebechame l sauce. thenstiri ntothe pan.Pour thesauceoverthe lobsters sprinkle with the Parmesan . andcookunderthe broaer for 4-5 minutes until golden. Serve immediately

Jumbo shrimp

Howto cook Allowabout6 jumboshrimpp:erserving. Donot cookthem too far in advanceor theywill not be sojuicy ff usingfrozenjumboshnmp. let themthawfullybeforeusmg.Tocookjumboshrimp. bring a pan of salted water to a boil. Add the jumbo shnmp so that they are completelysubmergedand cookfor 2 minutes. then rerno\·ethem fromthewaterwitha slottedspoon.Hov, ·ever. asjumboshrimpcan

sur

•'•t,>~1'...; • • ~r

••IID

la

680

Fishballs ALBONOfGAS OEPESCAOO

• 4 ¼ ouncesday-oldbread,

«~ts removed • lc14>hotmilk • 1 pound2 ounceshakefillet

• legg • 1clovegarlic. finelychopped • 1 teaspoonchopped

fresh parsley

• sunfloweroil.for deep-frying • ¼ cup all-purposeflour

• ttianglesoHriedbread

(see recipe130) or boiW rice • salt

Sauce: • 1 onion.chopped

• 1 tablespoonal -purpose flour · !bay kaf • pindl of saffron threa.YJ!l,UClli

• 6 tenderloinorsirtoin steaks.

about5 ouncesea.ch • 5 tablespoonsolive oil • 2 ¾ cupsslicedmushroo.m • 1½ tablespoonsbutter

• ;uiceol 1/,lemon • 5 ouncesshallots. chopped • generous¼ cup chopped

Serranohamor prosciutto

· salt Se....~6

Blushboth sidesof theste.aks witha httleof theodandletstandin the refrigeratorfor 30 minutes. Put themushroomsbutter. andlemon juice into a pan seas.on w,th s.alt.andcookovermediumheatfor 6 mmutes. Remove fromtheheatand set a.sde Heat3 tablespoons of theoil in a skilfet Addthe shallotsand cooko,·erlowhe.atst,rring occasionally. for about5 minutes. unti softened and translucent. Stir in the hamandcookfor 2-3 minutes.then add themushrooms and their cookingjuices Keepwarm O\'er very towheat Heat the remaining odin a skilletor ridgedgril pan,addthesteaks.andcook O\'er high heatfor 2-4 minutesone.a chs de untildoneto yourliking. Seasonwiths.alt transfer to a warmservingdish. andspoon a little

of tilemushro om.onion. andhammIXture. together withthecooking juices ontopof eachsteak. Serveimmediately. r-.oteThis dishcanalso bemadeusing\'ealin placeof beef.

687

Tenderloinsteakswith butter andanchovies c::SOLO\.!ILLO CO"Ju,.i.trEQUIL.>. Yi\,llCHC,.S

fll!-ES

• 6 tenderloinsteaks. about5 ounceseach • 3 tablespoonsolM! oil • 8 cannedanchovyfillets.drained

• 7tablespcx,MOOtter

• ;uiceot I lemon • 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley • salt

688

Srush bothsidesoi the steaks witha litt 1e oi the oil andlet stand for 30 minutesin the refngerator.He.atthe remainingotl in a skillet or ridgedgnll pan. Add the steaksandcook overhigh heat for2-4 min· uteson each side. until doneto yourliking lightly seasonwith salt transfertoa ser\'ingdish, and keep warm.Pound theanchoviesand 2 tablespo ons of thebuttertoa pastein a mortar or smallbov,IStir in theremainingbutterand heatgently in the skilletor grill pan. When the butter hasmelted. stir in thelemonjuiceand pars!ey Mixwell and pour thesauceover thesteaksor ser\'e separate ly in a sauceboat.

Flambeedpeppersteaks fll!-ES c:: SCLOIJ!llCAl}

• 6 ttnderloin steaks. about5 ounceseach • 3 tablespoonsblack

peppert:orm. ligtlUy:ture into an o,•enproof baking dish and put the hard-coo ked eggson top. Combinethe mashedpotato and the beatenegg and spreadover the meat. Dnzzlew,ththe remainingoil andsprinkle with thesugar. SJke for 15-20 minutesand servestraight from the dish.

706

Ovenroasts J.Si1.00 i1.LHORM

• 1 bonelessbfft joint for

Preheat the oven t o 400~F Tie the b eef Mth fine kitchen string

roas.ting,3 ¼ pounds • tard orsunflower oil • me.at extractor MaggjSeas.on Wgl

so it forms a neat shape. Melt the lard or heat the sunflower oil in a roastingpan over medium he.at Add the beefand cook, turning frequently unti l evenly brownedall O\'er. Season w,thsalt and spread with meatextractor MaggiSeasoning, then placethem in the O\'en and cookuntil doneto yourhking. A boneless pieceof beefweighing 3 1/4poundscooked for about 30 mW1 uteswill berareandquiteredin the mi-ddle Beefis oftenser\'ed rare but ttus is a matterof personal taste (Seethe tabte below for approximatecooking t.mes.)

• salt

Remove the beef from the roastingpan, cover with aluminum foil. and let rest for 10-15 minutesbefore carving Add a httfe boihng water to the roastingpan andbnng to a boil. scraping up any brts from thebas.eoi thepan. thenstram into a sauceboat.and sef\•e with the meat. Bonelessbeef Rare-10- 15 m.nutesp:er pound Medium- 15-20 minutesper pound Well done- 20-25 minutesper pound Beefon the bone Rare-15-20 minutesper pound Medium- 20-25 minutesper pound Well done- 25-30 minutesper pound

707

Fillet of beef in pastry SOtO'l ~LOENHOJHO~E

• 2 table$poonSsunfloweroil

lieat the sunflower oil in a stovetop·saferoasting pan. Seasonthe

• 1 beettenderloil\.2 1.4pounds

beef with salt and l}epper. add to the pan. and cook aver medium heat turning frequentl y. until e\'enly bro'Nnedall O\·er. Remo \'e the me.atfrom the roastmg pan and put it onto a dishtowefto absorb any juice it releasesPreheatthe oven to 400~F . Melt the lard or heat theoli\·e oil in a sk.lllet. Add theonion and cook O\'er low heat. stirnng occaStonally. for 5 minutes. until softened.md translucent Add the mushroomsincre.as.e the heatto tugh.andcook stirring frequently. for 10 mll utes. or until the mushroomshave re!e.as.ed their juiceandmostof it hasevaporated. Remove the pan from the heat. stir in the truffle. and let cool. Roll l sheetof the doughon a lightly flouredsurfaceto forma sheetlargeenough to enclosethe beefcompletely. Trim theedgesne.at ly and reserve the trimmings SpreadChemushroommixture over the beef then placethe meat on thedough. Brushtheedgeswith the eggyolk andwrap thedough aroundthebeefto make apactage Roll outthedough trimmingsand theadditi onal half·sheetof dough if using, andcut out leafor star shapes. Brushthem wdhbeaten egg yolk and placethemon top of thepackage.Cut a slit in the middleof the top and il serta rolled-up cylinderof aluminum foil to makea funnel. Brushthe remaining egg yolk over theparcel to glaze.Carefully transfer theparcelto abaking sheetandbake for 25minutes. thenturnoff theoven. open theO\'en. and CO\'er the packagewith aluminumfoil. l ea,·e the covered beefen croOte in thewarm ovenfor 10minutes for rareand 18minutesfor mediumbefore cuttmg the parcelinto slicesand serving.

• 2 tablespoonslard

or 2 tablespoonsoive oil • ½ onion.finely chopped

• 1 pound2 ouncesnw.shrooms, sli~ • !canned «bottled truffle.

drained,thinly sli~

andcut into slivers

• 1- 11/: sheets fronm puff pas.try dough.thawedif frozen • all-purposeflour. for dusting-

• 1 eggyolk.lightlybeate,n • sat and pepper $e"',-eS6

~ote For anaccompanyingsauce.he.atsomeere.aminthe panused to cooktheonionandmushrooms.adding afewextraslicesofmushroom. thej UJ cefrom thecanof truffles,a little concentratedmeatstock. and

a little pepper . Donotlet the sauceboil

708

Roastbeef in a pan J.Si1.00S ENCi1.CEROlJ.

• !bonelesssirloinor centercut

of tendettoin.l pounds • lardorsunflcv,w,ro il

• meatextractor MaggiSeasoning • salt

Youcan -roasCin a Outch oven or flameproofcasserole. but this i.s not the same as a pot roast wtuch is typically cooked in liquid with \·egetables. Menthe lard or heat the od o\'er mediumheat Add the beef and cook. turning frequently. until browned all O\·er. Seas on with salt and spreadwith meat e.xtract. Lower the heat and cook unco\'ered. turrung the meat every 10 minutes. When the beef i.s cookedto your liking,removert from theOutchoven or flameproof casserole . andmakea gravy by adding a littlewaterto the pan juices and cookO\·er a low heatuntil slightly thickened. t,.ote. Allow about 10-15 minutes per poundmeatfor rare or longer until cookedto your liking.

Beef.carrot. onion.and peastew

709

~.£.GOUT COii z•N.£.-O!i.lJ.SCEEO_LITJ;,S FR.r.r--CESAS y GUSAtrES

• cupoliwoil · 3¼ poundsste'Mrtgbeef . sucil

as chuck.flank. ruq, orbriskel cut into 11/:-inch cubes • 1 onion.finelychopped

• 1 tablespoonatl•pl#pose flour • lcupwflitewine • pindl of mixeddried herbs

• 1 pound 2 ouncescarrots. sli~

lengthwise

• 2 tablespoonsClassjcTomato

Sauce(seerecijpe73) • 9 ouncesshallots • 1½ tablespoonsbutter

· scant1 o.ipdrainedcanned. frozen. or shelledfreshpeas

· salt Se".-es6

Heat the011in a pan. Add the beef. in batches.andcook overmediUm heat stirnng occasionally for 5-8 minutes until evenly bro\\ned Removewith a slotted spoonandsetaside.Pour off nearly al the od from the pan. leaving2-3 tablespoons. and reheat Add the onion. lower the heat.andcook. stirnngoccasionally, for 10m.nutes. until lightly browned Stir in the flour and cook stirring constantly. for 5 minutes. Return the beef to the pan. stir in thewine. andadd water to cover. Seasonwith salt and sprinkle in the herbs. Bring to a boil. cover. and Simmer for 1½ hours Addthe carrot re·CO\ 'er the pan. and simmer for 45 minutesmore. Stir in the tomato sauce if usmg Meanwhile. put the shaUotsand butter into a small pan.addwater to cover. and s.mmer gently for about 20 minutes. m til tender but not falhng apar t About 10- 15minutes before serving addthe shallots and the peasto the stew Sen-ehot.

710

Beefcooked in red wine C.t.R\E•ocs~.o~. yG:JISAO~. Eli VINOTIIITO

• 1 largeonion. halved

Putthebeefintoa deep.nonmetallic dish Cutoneof theonionhalves into three Yr 'edgesand add to the dish along wrth the carrot bay le.av es. andbouquetgarni.Seasonv;iths.altandpourin thewineand

• l largecarrot. thickly si ~

\'inegar Coverwithplast,c wrap andlet marinateina coolplace.but

• 2 bay leaves • 1 bouc,,et gami

not the refngerator . stirringoccasionally. for 6-10 hours.Drainthe beef. reservingthe marinadePut the oi and baconinto a large pan and cook over mediumheat for 3-4 minutes.Meanwhile. chopthe remainingonionhalf.add it to the pan,and cook.st,rring occasion· ally for 8-10 minutes.until lrghtlybrowned Add the beefand cook. st1rnng frequently.for about10 m.mrtes.until evenlybrowned. Pour in the reservedmarinade.bnng to a boil.andcookuntil the liQUidhas reducedbyhalf. Lower the he.ataddthe hotwater. CO\'er. andsimmer for 2-3 hours. until the beei ls tender.RemO\'e and discardthe bay le.av es and bouquet garni Jnd serve the stew in a warmdeep dlsh. garnishedwithtnang'esof fried bread(see recipe130) or accompa.· niedby Ma.sh ed Potato(seerecipe 230)

• 3 ¼ poundsbonelessrumproast or flank.cut into 1 ¼-a'lchcubes

(1 sprigfresh parsley.1 clow garlic. and3 sprigsfresh thyme

tied togetherin cheesecloth) • 2¼cups redwine • ¼ cup red-winevineg:ar

• 2 tablespoonsofiwoil • 5 ounces slabbacon.

cut intothinstrips, • 2¼cupshotwater

• salt and pepper Se",-esC

..........,..,..,,

711

Beefbourguignon C.t.R\E GUIS~.o~. CO"lvr,ro Tl'iTO(SOU~GUG\O"l Es· 1to t"~A.IIC ES)

• 3 tablespoonsoive oil • ~nerous 1cup O$e flour

• generouslcupwhitewine • 2 tablespoons(1A stick)

margarineor butter • salt Se".-es6

Tiethe veal into a neatshapewith finekitchenstring andstudwith thecloves. Put ,t into a Dutch O\'enor heavy pan and add therum. currants chile. and the juice from the pineapple slices Chop two slicesof thepine.ap pleandaddto thepan thenlet theve.almarinate in therefrigerator. turningit occasionally,for at least1hour Rese r\'e the remaining pmeappleRemo ,·e the \'e.al from the pan. pour the marinadeinto a bov,I remO\'e the currants with a slotted spoon. and reserve Heattheoi in the Dutchovenor pan. Addthe veal and cook. turningfrequently,for about10minutes until evenlybrowned all over Sprinkle in the flour. pour in the marinadeandwine. season with salt. andbringto a boil Lower the heatand cook. turning the ,·ealocca.sonaily, for about 1½ hours. unti tender. Tov,ard theend of thecook.1 ngtime. melt the margarine or butterina skillet Add the reserved p.neappte slicesand cook O\'er highhe.atfor5 minutesuntil goldenbrown on both s des Remove with a slotted spatula. drain. and keepwarm Lift thevealout of the pan. remove anddiscard the

stnng. andcarvetheme,it 1110ttun slicesPa;;thesaucethrough a foodmill or processin a food processor.Put the\'ealon a serving dishand garnish w,th thepineappleslicesand theresen·edcurrants. Serve immediately offeringthesauceseparately r-.ote Thedish canbe servedwith )'ellownee(seerecipe191).

f}l

\l~>T

739

Roastveal with orange COIIHt.OEH.n:11:R>. AS.r.~.r. COf.iIIJ.~.£."-lJJ.

• 1vealbonelessleg.sirloin. or rumproast.3 1.4pounds • 5 tablespoonsbrandy

• generous½ cup lard

or 6 tablespoonssunflower oil • 5 tablespoonshot w.ater • 2 tablespoonssugar • 1½ tablespoonsbutter

• 1 largeorangeor 2 small

orangn. sliced • ;uiceof2 oranges • 1 tablespoongratedorangezest • MashedPotato(seerecipe230)

• salt 5e...,-es6

740

Preheatthe oven to 35ot; Tiethe \'ealinto a neat shapewithfine kitchen string and put it into a roastingpan Heat the brandy in a smallpan,igniteit and pour it over theveal. When the flameshave dieddown. spreadthe lard overthe vealor pour the oil O\'er it. Roast for about20minutes until beginningto brown.thens.e.ason withsalt add the hot water.and bastethe meat Cook.turningthe meat and bastingoccasional ly,for l hour. until tender.Meanwhile.pour l cup waterintoa pan. addthe sugar andbutter. andbringtoa boil, stirring unt,I the sugarhas dlssolved. Cookfor about6 minutes. then add the orangeslices. andbringbacktoa boil. Remo\'e the pan fromthe he.atandset aside Whenthe vealis tender. turn off the oven. open the door for 2 minutes. and then doseit again. and let the meatrest for about15 minutesbeforecarving.Carvethe \'eal and place the sliceson a warms.erving dish Oram the oranges6ces.Garnishthe meatwith litt 1e moundsof the mashed potatoand theorangeslices Stir the orangejuiceand gratedzestinto thecookingjuicesand he.at through. thenserve separate l y in a sauceboat

Ossobucoin mushroomsauce CSSOBUCCO ENS~LS~. COr-1 C-1~.MFll)Of\ES

• 5-6 tablespoonsoive oil

• 6 slicesof vealshank

(~sobuoo) • 11, cup all-purposeflour

• 3 ¼ cups thickly slioed

mushrooms

• 3 large.r1)e tomatoes. peeled.seeded. andchopped

• 1GuPwflitewine • lcupvea l orchickfnstod: (homemade. cannedor

made with a boui loncUbe)

• salt and pepper 5e...,-es6

Heat the oil in a large pan. Coat the piecesof ,·eal in Cheftour. shakingoff any excess.add to the pan,andcookO\'er medium heat turning occasiona lly for 8-10 minutes. until lightly browned.Add the mushroomsand cook,stirnng occasionally for 5 minutes. then add the tomatoes Pour in the wine andstock, s.e.ason v,ith salt and pepp:er. cover. andcook over lowheat for aboutI hour. until tender Sen·e in a warmdeepdish

741

Ossobucoin sauce OSSOaucco ENSHS~.

• 2 cups,sunfloweroil • 6 slicesofwal shank

(ossobuco)

• 1/2cup all-purposeflour • 1 onion. finetychopped • 1 clovegarlic. finely choppecl • 3 tomatoes. seededandd•Ol)p ed

• 1/2teaspoon mi_.d dried her~

or 1 oouc,ietgami (1 sprig freshparsley.1sptig fresh thyme. and 2 bayle.aw s

tied togetherin cheesecloth) • 1 tablespoongratedlemonzest • l cupwflitewine

• l cupw al orchickenstod:

(llomemade. cannedor made with a bouiUoncube) • 9 ouncesshallots • 11/rtabl espoonsbutter

• a dashof Semon juice

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

Reser ve 5 tablespoons of theoil and heattheremainder in a skillet. Coatthe piecesof ossobucoin the flour. shakingoff anyexcess . addto the skil et.andcookO\'ermedi:um heat.turningoccasionally . for 8-10 minutes unt1I goldenbrov;non both sides RemO\'ffrom the skillet and keepwarm.Heat3 tablespoonsof the reser\'edod in another skiteet Addthe onionandgarlic andcook over towheat stirring occasiona lly for about8 minutes until beginningto brown Add the tomatoand cook stirring occasionally and breaking rt up with theside of thespoon. for about !Ominutes.Addthe driedherbs or bouquetgamiandstir in thelemon zest.Put thepiecesof ve.alinto a pan Pour the wineand stockinto the tomatoand onionmixture. seasonwiths.altand pepp:er . andpourthesauceO\'erthemeat.Cover and simmerO\'erlowheat for l hour. until tender Meanwhileput the shallots. butter lemonjuice anda pinchof saltinto another pan. add water to cover. and cook for about20 minutes. until tender Oram well.Heatthe remainingoil in a third pan.Addthe shallotsandcook. turningfrequently.until brownedall over.Remove from the pan and set aside Transferthe p.ecesof \'e.JIto a warmservingdlsh.Remove and dis.CJ rd thebouquetgarni. Ii used,passthe saucethrougha food mil or processin a food processo r or bfender. andpour it O\'erthe me.atGarnis h thedish withtheshallotsandsprinklewith theparsteJ Serve immediately

• salt andpepper

Se".-es6

r-.ote:Somepeople prefernot to passthe saucethrougha food mill or processin a food processoror blender. whichresultsin a sauce withmoretexture.

742

Vealstew with whiskeysauceand rice GUISO o::T~RM~i\Eli $.£._Si\OE'l.'- ISKYCOf-1~.RRCZ SJIICO

• 2onions

• 31/,poundsveal.bre.ast or shoulder.cut into cubes • 4 c-arrots. halvedlengthwise

• 1bayleaf

• 5 tablesp.oonswhitewine • 21/:cupslong-grain rioe • 6 tablespoons(¾stick) butter

• 2 tablesp.oonssoofloweroil • 1t.ablespoonall•p!Xpose flour • 3 tablespoonswhiskey

· 1tablespoon chopped fresh parsley ·salt

fmely choponeof the onionsandcut the other in half.Put the \'eat. carrots onion halves. bayleaf. wine. and a pinchof salt into a pan. pour in water to co\'er. and bring to a bod Skim off the froth that rises to the surface. then CO \·er. and cook over mediumheat for 1-l ½hours,untilthe,·ealistender(seephotograph).Meanwhilecook andrins.ethericeasdescribed inrecipe173.Remo\'e theve.alfromthe panwrthaslotted spoonandsetaside_Stram andreservethecooking liquid.Melt2 tablespoonsof the butter with the oil in a pan. Addthe choppedoruon andcookovertowheat.stirringocca.s 1onalty.for about 10minutes.until lightly bro'Nn ed Stir in the floorand cook. stirring constantly. for 2 minutes. Stir in the whiskey. thengraduallystir in 3 cupsof the resef\•edcookingliquid.a httle at a time Cook,stirring constantly. for about 10minutes until ttuckened.Addthe vealand he.atthroughfor about 5 minutes. Meanwh ile. s.e.a.son the rice with salt and fry in the remaining butter (seerecipe173). Spoon the rice into a ring moldand tum rt out onto a warm ser\'ing dish Spoonthe me.atandsauceinto the middle andspnnkle v;ith the parsley.Alter· natively. serve therice ina moundon the side Serveimmediately

743

Veal stewwith lemonj uice GUISO OEH~'IIER~COf-1 ZUMO o::L MOIi

• 3¼ pound.swal. breast

or shCX,der, cut into cubes

• 1hcup a!l-pl.WJ)Ose flour • 6tabl espoonsofiwo il

• 1 onion.chopped

• ;uice of l lemons • gratedzest oft lemon • 1 veal«chicken bouilloncube

• 9 ouncesshallots • 1 tablespoonbutter

• 1 teaspoonsugar • 1 teaspoonDijonmustard • ¼ teaspoonmeatooncentta'le

• 1/,cupmusc-at ehm e • salt andpe:pper

5e...,-es6

Coatthecubesofvealin the ftour.shakingoff any excessHeattheoil in a pan Add the onionand cookO\'er lowheat stirnngocca.son.ally. forabout 5 minutes until softenedand translucent Add the,·ealand cookover mediumheat. stirring frequently. for 8- 10minutes. until broYtned all over. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the flour and cook. st.rring constantly. for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in 3 cups water and the lemon juice and add the lemon zest Crumble in the boui lon cube and stir well. Co\'er and cookovermedium heattor about l ½hours. until the \'ealIs tender. Meanwhile. put the shallots and butter into a pan pour in water to CO \'er. and cook for about 20 minutes. mhl tender. Shortly before serving heat the sugar in another pan until ,t is the color of caramel Stir in the mustard meat concentrate. and wine. then st.r themixture intothestew.Seasonto tastewith saltand pepper. Drain the shallots. add to the stew. and cook for 8 minutes more. Serve with tnanglesof fried bread(seerecipe 130) or little moundsof bodednee.

c::,

n

Vealstew with leeks

744

-En.tl:RAGLls.r.o~. CONPUE~n:os • 2 tablespoons(¾ stick) butter • 2 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 2 Y,poundsveal,bre.ast or shoulder.cut into cubes • 1¾ poundsleeks. thinlysiced and rinsed~JI • ¾cupdrywlitewine • juioe of½ ~mon

• 1cup milk

Melt the butter with the oil in a pan Add the ,·eal and cook oVer medium he.atstirring frequently. for about 8 minutes. until golden brown all over. Remo \'e wit h a slotted spoonandkeep warm. Add the leekto the panand coo>:over lowheat.sbrnngoccasionally.for 10minutes. until softened. Returnthe ,·eal to the pan, pour in the wine. lemon juice. and milk and addthe currantsand bouquet garni Covff and simmer gently for 40 minutes. until the ,·eal is tender_ Remove and discardthe bouquet garni. season to taste. andserve immediately with boiledme or tagliateUe.

• sc-ant1/, cup currants • !bouquet garm (1sprig fresh

parsley.1 bayleaf. and1dove gatl ic tied in c heeseclo th)

·salt

Vealstew

745

-En.N:R.r. GJISJ.0~ • 1pound5 ouncesveal.breast or shoulder.cut into cubes • 2 tablesp.oons all-purposefloor

• 4 tablespoons oliw oil • 1onion.chopped • ½ cupdry whitewine • ½ cupwalordlicken

stocl:

(homemade,cannedor made with a boui loncube)

• 1spogfreshthyme.c hopped • 1splig freshsage. chopped • pinchoffres hfy grated nutme-,g

· 2eggs • juioe of½ ~mon

· I t1blespoonmopped fresh parsley

• satt and pepper Se"i@S!

Coat the \'eJI in the flour. shaking off any excess Heat the oil in a pan Add the onion and cook OVEf low heat stirnng occasion· ally for about 8 mmutes, until begmmng to brown Addthe veal. in batches. and cook O\'er medium heat.stirring frequently. for about 5-8 minutes. until e,·enly browned Returnall the veal to the pan Pour in the wine and cook over hrgh heatuntil reduced then add the stock. lo v,·er the heatands,mmergently for 45 minutes adding morestork or water. 1f necessary. until theveal is tender. Seaso n with saltand p:epp:erhalfway through the cookingtimeandaddthe thyme. sage. andnutmeg. Beatthe eggswit h the lemon juice andparsley and stir into the pan, thenremove fromthe he.at and serve

746

Stewedvealbreast t"IU-ESOEt"J.LO~. OE-En:11:R.t; GJIS.t.!XIS

• 5 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 3 pounckbonelesswal bna:st. cut into6 slices • 1 onion. finelychopped • 3 clo,nsgaric . ljgtltty crushed · 2 ripetomatoes.

Pffled. seeded.and diced

• generousl cupwhite wine • a pa'ldl ot mixeddried herbs

or 1 bouc,ietgami (1 sprig freshparsley. 1sprig: fresh thyme. and 2 bay leaves

tied together WIchHsecloth} • 9 ouncesshallots • 3 tablespoonsbutter

• ;uice ot 1/,lemon • generous2 ¾ cupS,thd:l y sl iced rooshrooms • ¼cup olives.pitted andhahoedlengthwise

· salt Se".-es6

Heatthe oil in a he.avypan or a Dutch oven. Add theveal. in batches. and cook over medium heat.stirring frequently, for 5-8 minutes until e\·enty browned on both sides Remove the \'eal from the pan and set aside Add the on.on and garlic to thepan andcook O\'er low heat st.1rring occa.son.ally.forabout5 minutes until softened and transluce nt Return the \'e.JI to the pan, add thetomato. and pour in thewine and¾ cupwater.Season with salt stir inthedriedherbsor bouquet garni.and bringto a boil. lower theheat.cover andStmmer for l hour. until the vealis tender. Meanwhile. put theshallots. half thebutter. half the lemon juice. anda p,nch of salt into a pan and cookfor about 20minutes until tender Drainand set a.sde Put the mushrooms. the remaining lemon juice the remaining butter. and a pinchoi salt into a pan Cover Jndcook for 6 minutes. When the ,·eal is tender. add the shallots the mushrooms and their cooking juices Jnd the olives to thestew. mix weD.and cook over medium heattor 5 minutes more Remo ve anddisCJrdthe bouquetgami. if used, Jndserve immediately

747

Blanquetteof veal 8_i1.!IQU£-,r. OE-E~'IIER~

• 3¼ pound.s bonelessveal breaslcut intocUbes • lbay leaf

· 1 smal onion.halved • 2 carrots.siced • 5 tablespoonswhitewi"le

• 2 ½ cupslong-grainrice • 6 tablespoo,ns (1/,stick) butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1½ tablespoonsflour · l cupmi lk

• 2 egg yolks

• ;uiceof 1/,lemon • 2 teaspoonschopped fresh parsley

Put the vealinto a pan, pour in water to cover. and add the bayleaf. onion.carrot wme and apinchof salt Bring toabod andskim off the

troththat risesto the surface. then lower theheat.ands11T1 mer for 1-l ½hours.u ntil the \'ea! 1s tender Meany,hile. cookandrinse the rice as described in recipe173 RemO \'e the vealfrom the pan with a slottedspoon and keep warm S1rainand reser\'e thecook.1 ngliquid Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the oil in a pan. Stir in the flour and cook,st,rringconstantly, for 2 minutes. Graduallysbrin themilk and 21/4cupsof the resen·ed cookingliquid. Beatthe egg yolks with the lemon juice and stir in a little of the sauce, then pour into the pan. Sprinkle in the parsley and seasonto taste with salt Remove the panfrom the heat andkeepwarm. Season the ricewith salt and try in the remaining butter (seereape li3 ). Fil hatt of a long serving dishw,th the rice and the other halfwrththe ,•e.JIand sauce Sef\•e immediatel y.

• salt

748

Classicstuffed breastof veal J.lE~AOETER\ERA RELLEf-1~.CLi.SICA

• 3carrots • 1 bonelessw.al breast. 3 ¼pou nds

• 9 ouncesgroundveal

• 4--ounce pieceof Serranoharn or prosc.Jtto.cut into 1/.a..inch widestf1)s • 1 hard-cookedegg.

cut intowed~s • 4tablespoons oiwo il

•l

largeonion.chopped

• !apple .

petled.oored. andGllopped

Cut two of the carrots into lengthwisestrips. discardingthe centers Shce the remaining carrot Open out the breastof \'e.al spreadthe ground veal in the center, and placethe strips of ham andstrips of carrot on top andall along it. Add the hard-cooked egg and season with salt Roll up the veal and tie securely w,th fine kitchenstring. Heattheoil in apan Add theveal and cookO\'ermediumheat.turning frequently, for 8-10 minutes. until evenly brownedall O\'er. Remove from the panand setaside Addthe onion to the pan andcookover tow heat stirring occasionaUy for about 10 minutes, until golden brown.Return the veal to the pan addthe apple, sliced carrot, and a p,nchoi salt. and pour il the wine. Bring to a boil. pour in enough water almostto CO \'er the meat.and bring backto a bod Lower the

he,it cover. andsimmerfor l ¼ hours. until the veal is tender and

• 1/.cup drywhite'Mne

the saucehasreduced lift the veal out of the pan and remove and

• salt Se...,es8- 9

discard the string. Cut into slicesabout 1/2inch thick and placeon a warm servingdish. Passthe saucethrougha food mill or process in a foodprocessor.Transfer toa sauceboat Serve immediatel y with little mounds.of vegetablesor Mashed Potato( seerecipe 230).

749

Rolledvealbreastfilled with spinach andomelet .£._E-•CE-E~\:ER~. Ra~ENJCO"lESFlf.iflCAS YTOn_LJ.S

• 2 ¼ pound.s spinach. coarsestalksremewed

Cook the spinachas describedon page315. drain well. and chop.

• 1 bonelessw.al breast.

lightly with salt Combinethe ground \'ealand ham and spread the mixture ontop of thebre.a. st of veal. Using1eggand 1½tablespoons of the oil each. make two flat omeletsin a small skillet Place the omeletson topof thegroundme.Jtnextto eachother Put thespinach on top of theomeletsin a strip about2 ¼incheswide Carefullyrol up the,·eal sothat noneof the filling mo\·es. then tie rt wrthfinekitchen stnng He.atthe remairung oil in a roastingpan.Addthe veal rol and cookover mediumheat.turning frequently for 8-!0 minutes. until e\·enly broYinedall O\'er. lrghtly s.e .a. son v;ithsalt and roastinthe O\'en for 30 minutes.Pour thewine over the veal.return theti n to theoven. and roastfor 15minutesmore.Pour half the hot water over the veal. return it to the oven. and roast basting occa.s ,onally. for another 30 minutes. adding the remaininghot water. if necess.a ry. If s.e rving hot. let themeatrestfor about lOminutesbeforeremo\'ingthestring and car\'ing This.dish is a•so very tasty served cold.

lpoundlOounces • 7ouncesgroundVNI

• 1/2o.ip fiietychoppedSerraoo

hamOf prosciutto • 2 eggs • ¼o.ip sunfloweroil

• 5 tablespoonswtaitewine

• 1/,cuphotwater • salt 5e...,-es6

Preheatthe oven to 350' F Open out thebre.astof\'eJIands.ea.s on

Stewedvealshoulder

750

ES:t~.LDU.t. OET~RM~AGUISAO.r. . 11, cup lad«

S tablespoons

sunfloweroil • 1 boneless.rolledvealshOIAlder,

4 ¼ pounds.bonesreserved • 2 onions.coarselychopped • 9 ouncescarrots.tflicktysliced • 2 ripetomatoes. peel~ seeded.andchopped • pinch of ni xeddried her~

or 1 bouc,ietgami

(1 sprigfreshparsley. 2 bay

Seaves.and1spog freshthyme tied together WIcheesecloth) • lc14>wtaitewine

• 1/,cupwarmwate r • 1 tablespoonpot.atostarch , 1.4teaspoonmeatextract or MaggiSeasoning • 1 teaspoonpa,prika • salt 5e...,-es6

PreheattheO\'ento 350ti . Melt thelardor heat theoil inanO\'en proof casserole that canbe used on thestove Add the ,·eat. \'f.JIbones. onion, and carrot and cook O\'er medium heat.turning the me.at frequently. for 8- !0 minutes. until e\·enly broYinedall CYY er. Add the tomato. dried herbs or bouquet garni. and a pinch of salt. pour in the wine and thewater. andbringto a bod Transfer the casserole to theovenand cook. turning the\'ealandbasting occasionally. for l ¼hours.until tender.Remo ve the\·ealfromthecasse role. cutit into slices. Jnd keep warm Setthe casseroleovermedium-low heatand skimoff any fatfromthesurfaceoithe cookingliquid.Mi:xthepotato starchwith a little waterandthe meatextract or MaggiSe.asoningin a boYt 1. then stir into thecasseroleRemO \'e anddlscard the bones and the bouquetgarni. if used. andpassthe cookingliquid through a food mill or processin a food processor or blender Mlle. in the paprika seasonto tastewith s.alt.andadd a little hot water 1f the sauce is very thick. tt ,t is too thin cook for a little tonger before addingthepaprika. Pour the sauceovertheveal and serve immed1· ately with MashedPotato(seerecipe 230) or friedpotatoes.

751

Vealwith onionsandsherry -En:11:RJ. CCIICBO_LJ.YVl",10 OEJER:.z

Ser.H 6

Tie the veal into a neat shape with fine kitchen string. Coars!e y chopthe onions. Heat theoil or melt the lard in a heavy-basedpan. or a Dutchoven.Add the \'eal and cook O\'er mediumheat turning frequently, for 8- 10minutes. until e\'enly brov;ned all over. Addthe onion garlic sherry,cloves. and1½cupswater. s.eason with salt and pepper. andbnng to a boil lower theheat cover. and simmerfor about l }~ hours. untiltheveal is tender Lift theve.alout of thepan. remove and discardthe string, and cut themeatintoslices Passthe cooking juicesthrougha foodmill or processin a foodprocessoror blender. Serve immediately with boiledpotatoesor macaroni tossed in butter and gratedcheese

752

Braisedveal

• lYeallegouump roasl 3¼pounth · 1 pound 10ouncesonions • 5 tablespoonssunfloweroil or¼cuplard • 2 clovesgar1ic.lightlycrushed

• th c14>sherryorothe r sweetfortifiedwine

· 2cloves • salt andpe:pper

-En:11:R.r. Es-oF~.o~.

• 3¼ pounthvealbceast. leg, Of rib. cut into cubes

• 1/,cup white-'Mnevinegar • 1/,cup oliwoi l • 1 he.ad garlic.peeled • 1 large onion.chopped • pinch ot ni xed dried herbs

or 1 oouc,ietgami(1 bayleaf. 2 sprigsfresh parsley.and 1 sprigfresh thymetied togetherin cheesecloth)

• 1 teaspoonpaprika

· salt Se".-es6

Put all the ingredients into a large. he.avypan andse.a. son with the salt co,•er with a bghHtti ngthelid and cook over low he.at st.rring occ.asonaily. for about 2 hours until the veal is tender. If necessa ry. stir in a little hot waterto pre\·ent themeatdryingout. RemO\'e and discardthe gartic and the bouquet garni. if used. Serve in a warm deepdishwrthtrianglesof fried bread(seerecipe130).

753

Vealcasserole with porcini -En.lERU.U c~.ZUELJ. COiiSET~.s

• generous¼ cup lard or

6 tablespoonssunfloweroil

· 1veal rumproasl3¼ pound.s • 1/,cup Malagawine or sweetsheny

• 1 pound10 ounces porcini.

cut intolarge Jieoes • 1 teaspoonpotatostar ch

• ¼ teaspoonmeatconcentrate

• salt

Meltthe lardor heattheoil in aheavy panor aOutchO\'en .Addtheveal and cook over medium heat. turrung frequentJy,for 8-10 minutes. until evenly browned al over. Pour in the wine or sherryand i~ cup water. season lightly with salt CO \'er. and cook. stirringoccason.ally. for 30 minutes Add the porcmi to the pan, re-cover. and cook for another 30 minutes. until the vealis tender. lift out the meat.cut it into s6ces. placeon a serving dish and keepwarm. MiXthe potato starchandmeatconcentrate witha httle Ytaterin a smallbowl. then stir into thesauce Bringto a boil. stirringconstantly. Tasteand adjust the s.e .asonin,gif necessary. then spoon the sauceand mushrooms o,·er the \'eal Serve immediately t,.ote This dish CJnats.obe madewith driedporcini.Rehydrate them according to the instruct10ns.on the package

754

Veal with garlic andtomat o -En:11:RJ. ~.lAJL.0 COf.lTCUJ.TC:

• 4 t.ablespoM oliveoil

· 3¼pournhwalbceasl cut into 2½•inchlongstrips • 1 tablespoonbreadcturn~

• 1 head garic. peeled • 1 vealOf chickenbouilloncube dissolved ingenero~ 1cup

boilWlgwater

· salt Tomatosauce:

• 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• VA poundsveryripe tomatoes. Pffled. seeded.andchopped • pindl of ni xeddriedherbs or 1 bouquetgami(1 bay I eat and

1 sprigfresh thymetied toge,ther in cheeseclo th) • 1 teaspoonsugar

· salt Se....~6

Make a thick tomatosauceas describedin recipe 73 Remove and discard the bouquet garni. d used. before processingin a food processoror blender. Heat the oil in a heavy pan or a Dutch O\'en Addthe vealandcookO\'er mediumheat stirringoccasionally. for 8- 10minutes until e\'enly browned Sprinkle in the bread crumbs. add the tomatosauce. garlic cloves. andstock andse.aso n lightly with salt. CO\'er and simmer O\'er low heat for l 1/2hours. until the ,·ealis tender RemO\'f anddiscard the garlic andserve immediately

accompaniedby fnedpotatoes. . boiled rice. or triangles.oifried bread (seerecipe 130)

Pork

foot

Select ion Pork should be pink or light red dependingon the cut It shrinks considerably whenroasted. fried. or stewed, lo.singalmostone-third of its we,,ght.A loin of pork weighing3 ¼ pounds when raw willbe just 12 ¼ poundsafterroasting.Porkls \'erytasty but the meatfrom someoi the traditional breeds can be quite fatty and indigestibleIf you areworned aboutthe fat content look for sp:eciaUy bred lean pork (but be aware that me.atis often drier. the more lean1t is.)

Sausages Method for poachingsausages

Somesausagesespeetally largersausagespopularinSpamItaly and

iranceare often poachedrather than fned Prick the skin in several placeswith a toothpick. Sring a large pan of water to a boil. addthe sausages•.:t'ldbnngbadt to a bod lo wer theheatsothat thewateris barely simmeringwith just a few bubblesaround the sideof thepan Poachfor 10-12 minutes. dep:endingon the type of sausage. then remove. andser\'e Method for trying sausages Prick the skin in several placesv;ith a fort: or a toothpick. Put them in a sklllet pour od O\'er them andset the pan O\'er towhe.Jt Cook. turning occasionally. unti they are cooked through and evenly browned

Buying pork

Suitable c.uts

Weightper serving

Cookingtime

Fried.broiled or grilled

Chops.Ham.TEf'!derlom

7ounces 501SJces

6 mintfteseachs.de.Erstrt1er a highheatandthenrt1era I O'N heat

Roasted•

Tenderloon loin, le_g

7-Sounces(boneless)

25-30minutes perpound

Stewedor braised

Armshou!tfer,S!atfeshoulcfer 7 our.ces

1Yl-1¾ hours

~Makesure that the oven is p reheated

755

Roastloin of pork LOMO0£ CERJOJ.S~.00

• 1 bonelessport loin.3 1A pounds

• 2-J tablespoonsla.rd or sunfloweroil (optional)

• ;uice of ½ lemon • salt andpepper

Se".-es6

Tie the po~ into a neat shapewith fine kitchenstring and s.e.as.on with saltand pepperat least! hourbeforecooking.Preheatthe o,·en to 450if Put the pork into a roastingpan. If the meathas plenty oi fat put the pan into the ovenwithout anyadditional fat ff most of the fat hasbeentrimmed.spre.adthe lard or brushthe oi overthe pork beforeputting it into the oven.Roast.turning frequently.for 10-15 minutes.until broYinedall over.lower the oventemperature to 350°i. pour3- 4 tabtes.poons hot waterover the po~ and return to the O\'en.Roast,occas10na Uybastingthe meatwith the cooking juices for 1¼ hours until the jwces run cle.arwhen the thickest part is piercedwith the tip oi a sharp knife.Removethe pork from the O\'enand let rest for 5 minutesbeforeremovinganddiscarding the string and car\'ingthe meat into thin sfices. MlXa fewdropsof the lemon juiceinto the cookingjU1ces. and pour into a sauceboat Sen·ethe pork garnishedwrthMashedPotato(seerecipe 230). fried parsleypotatoes. PotatoBalls(seerecipe231). watercres.s. noodles. or tagliateUe Offer thesauce separate ly. t-.otesSomepeopleliketorubtheme.1twith a peeledgarlicdo\'eafterit hasbeens.easoned Asroas.tporkis delicious coldwithasalad.remember toroastalargerquantityoi meatandkee.ps.ome toser\'ecold.

756

Pork loin with mustard C 1r,.1.0 LCMOo::CEROO J.Si!,00COM1,!QSTJ.ZJ.

• 1 bonelesspork loin. 3 ¼ pounth

• 2 tablespoonsOijonni st.ard • 1/, cup white Yrine

• hot water • salt 5e...,-es6

Tietheporkintoa neatshapewith finekitchenstringandse.Json with salt l hour beforecooking.Preheatthe ovento 450~FSpreadthe mustardall overthe pork. thenput the meatinto a roastingpan.Put the pork into the ovenand roa.st.turrungfrequently for 10-15 min· utes, untilbroYinedall overlowerthe oventemperatureto 350'F Pourthe wineover the porkand bastev,·ell. thenreturn to the oven. and rwst. bastingoccasionally. for 11/4hours. until the juicesrun clearv,henthe thickestpart is piercedwith the tip of a sharpknife Turnoff theO\'enop:enthedoorfor 2- 3 minutes.closeit again.and let the pork rest for about6 minutes_Takethe port:out of the o,·en. remo\'eand discardthe stnng. and car\'e the pork into thm slices Placethem in a ser\'ing d!shand keepwarm Put 2-3 tablespoons hot waterintothe roastingpanandbring to a boil O\'ermediumheat st1rnng and scrapingup anybi1sfrom the baseoi the pan Strain into a sauceboat.Ser,•ethe port:with irench Fnes(seerecrpe 242). MashedPotato(seerecipe230). or macaronitossedin butter and gratedcheese.offeringthesauceseparately

757

Pork loin with milk C 1r,.1.0 LCMO o::CEROO COIiLECH::

• 1 bonelesspork loin. 4 1.4pounds

Tie the portt into a neat shap:ewith fine kitchenstring and s.e.ason

• 2½ tablespoonslard. or 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

with

• 4 cups warmmilk • 4 doves galic

• 4 black peppercorns • salt

5e...,-es6

salt 1 hour

before cookmg Melt the lard or heat the oil in

a he.a vy pan or a Dutch oven. Addthe pork and cook over medium he.atturningfrequently. for about 10minutes. until broYinedall over. Pour in the milk. add the garlic and the peppercorns , and bring to a boil c,yermediumheat.lower the heat.co,·er. andsimme r gently. turningocca.son.allyfor about 21/2hours. until the pork is tender Removethe pork from the pan and keepwarm If the remaining cookingliquidis very thin.cook 0\'erh1gh heatuntil reduced.Remo ve and discard the stringfrom the pork can•ethe meatinto thin slices. and pl.aceon .awarm s.e r\'ing dish Garnishwith MashedPotato(see reape230) or .applesauceStrainthe cook.ng liquidor put rt through a foodmill. or process. in a foodprocessoror bfender.BeatweDand serve separately in a s.auceboat.

630 •.r~H

758

Porkloin in a salt crust CIIITADECEii.DO i1,S.t;[lt; COiicos·R.r.. OESH

• 91/.a-1l 1/2o.ipscoarsesalt · 1 bonelessport loin.l 1.4pounck

Se".-es6

Preheattheoven to350ti.Makea ½-inchdeeplayer ofsalt inthebase of a roastingpan.Put the pork on top and CO \'er with the remaining salt in a thicklayer Pressdownfirmly wrthwet handssothat the salt formsa uust. Put theroastingpanmthe ovenandcookfor 1¾ hours. untilthe saltcrustbeginsto crack.Removethepanfromthe oven. bre.akthe saltcrust. lift out the port; andbrushoff anyremaining salt Carve intoslices.Ser\'e hot w,th any accompa niment youlike. or cold.

759

Braised pork loin with cabbage LOMO 0£ c:RJO 8R,6,S:.r.oo COii1':E'OL.0

• 1 bonelesspork loin. 3 ¼ pounth • 1h

Cl4) lard or 3 t.ablespooM

sunfloweroil • lth id:sli ceofbacon.

about3½ ounces.s • olWe oil.for br~hillg • l cupwtaitewine

• salt

You wil require a youngpig'et about a month and a halfold.ft should be thoroughly cleaned. with no hairs or stubble remaining, then

halvedlengthwise Seaso n generously with saltseveral hoursbefore roasting Preheatthe oven to 325tf. Put the dried herbs inside the animal and brush insideand out with oil. Put the p,.gletin a large roastingpan andplacein the oven. Roast turningoccasionally and bastingw,th the cooking juices. for about l ½hours. Pour the wine o,·er the skinof the animal and continuetoroast, bJ.stin,gfrequently, until thewine hasall beenusedup and a meatthermometer inserted into the thickestpart oi the rump reads165- 170tf Sen·e the meat car\'ed intolargepieces t,.ote The classic methodof cooking this dish 1s to roasta suckling pig in a baker's oven- at tastesmuch better than when roastedat home. but canbe difficult to arrange!

774

Porkhockwith sausages. cabbage.andpotat oes coo L.OSo:: J~.MOII FRESCO COiiS.£..CHIC-,~.s. n.E'OL.0Y Fr,ui1.s

• lonion • 4dows

"°"'

•2 hocks • 8 ouncess&abbacon

WIa singiepiece

• 2carrots • 3 ¼ pounth Savoyc-abbage, shredded

• 6 smallpotatoes • 3 tablespoonsolive oil • 6 frankfurters

• salt 5e...,-es6

Stud the onionwith the cloves Put the studded onion. portt hocks. bacon. and carrots into a flameproof cass.er o!e. Pour in 13 cups water andbringto a boil. then lower the heat.ands mmer gently for 30 minutes. Bnng a large pan of salted water to a boil Add the cabbage. pushing 1t down under the surfacewith a slotted spoon. CO\'er. bring back to a bod. and cook O\'er high heat for 5 minutes. Remove w,th a slotted spoon. drain.and add to the meat Simmer gently for 20 mmutesmore. thenaddthe potatoesCookfor another 30mimrtes, untilthepotatoesaretender but notfallingapart Remove thecabbagewith aslottedspoonand s.etasicfe. Heattheoil ina skillet Prick the frankfurters with a toothpick. add to the skillet and cook O\'er lo'Nheat for a fe'Nminutes. RemO \'e from the skillet and keep warm Add the cabbageto the skillet andcook fora few minutes. then transferto a warm serving dlsh. Put the potatoesaround the edge. Add the pork hocks and frankfurters to the dlsh. Cut the bacon into ¾-inch stripsand spnnkle it over thecabbage.Serveimmediately r-.otes Pork hocks arealsocalled shanks and sometimesknu~ les. and comefrom the hog·s lower leg. Use the cookingliquid fom thls dish to make a de5cious soup, with the carrots and any leftover potatoes diced

775

Sausagesin cloaks S~.LC - !CHA.S ENCHOTAOAS

• 12 frankh.riers • 1 egg.lightlybeaten

Dough: • 2¾ cups,al -purpose flour. pkls extraf«d~ting

•th cupbutter · ¼ teaspoonsalt

Ma•esl2

i 1rstmakethedoughasdescnbedin recipe1.andlet restfor atle.a.st l hour. Preheatthe oven to 400tF Rollout the dough on a lightly flouredsurfaceand cut out 12 rectanglesmeasuringabout 7 x 6 ¼ incheseach. Put a frankfurter on eachdough rectangle at an angle Roll O\'erthe dough diagonally.pressing downa httle with your fingers to seal. 8rush the beateneggover the frankfurter rolls. place them on a baking sheet,and bake for about 30 m,nutes. turning them over once the tops ha\'e browned and brushing the undersides with the

egg. Sef\•e hot t,.ote This dish can bemadew,thfrozendough that hasbeenth.awed. 8.akeaccordingtothe directions onthe package .

776

Frankfurters with mustard sauce SJ.LC - ICH.t..S c::FR~twu~- COiiSJ.LSI.0£ 1-10s-1.u

• 1 tablespoonall-purposefloar • lcup nill:

Melt half the butter with the oil in a skillet.Stir in the flour Jnd cook. stirringconstantly for 2 minutes Gradually stir in the milk, a lrttle at a time. Cook stirringconstantly. for 5 minutes. thenremove the skil letfrom theheat.andst1ri n themustard.Season to tastewiths.alt

• 1 tablespoonDijonmust.ard

and keepwarm.Preheatthebroiler. Bringa panofwatertoa boil add

• 12 ftanl:furters

the frankfurters. and bring back to a boil. low er the heatso that the water is barely simmering andpoach for6 minutes. Meany,hife. toast the slices of bread on both sides. then place them on an O\'enprooi ser\'ing dlsh. Remove the frankfurters from thewater. dram well. and hal\'e widthwise Placethemon top of the toast.Spoon a little of the sauce over eachfrankfurter. lea\'ing their endsuncovered. Spnnkle with thebreadcrumbs anddot with the remairungbutter. Cook under thebroiler for a few minutes. unti l the toppingis golden brown Serve immediately

• 3 tablespoonsbutter

• 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil

• 6slicesofbread

• 3 tablespoons breadcrumbs.

• salt Se".-es6

777

Hamwith spinachand Madeira sauce JJ.MOf.l OEYOli.K. CCMESPl'IIJCAS Y S~.LSAOE VIIIOM~.OERt.

• 6 thick slic~ of Snithfield. Black Forest« other

dry-curedham • lquantity MadeiraSauoe

first. prepare the spinach with bechamel sauce as described in recipe393 Put the slicesof hamandthe Madeira sauceinto a pan and warm through Toserve, put the creamedspinach on oneside. or at each end, of a warm serVingdish. Remove the slicesof hamfrom

(see recipe89)

thesauce. usmg a fork to separate them. foldthemin halfandplace themontheother sideofthe dish. Reheatthe sauce. pour it over the

Spa,achwith bethamelsauoe:

hamandserve

• 5½ pounckspinach. oo.vsestalksremoved • 2 tablespoons(1.4sticl:)butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1 tablespoonall-purposeflour • generous1 cup mi k

• salt 5e...,-es6

t,.ote Thls dish is best madewrthsmall slicesof hamthat are a little thicker thanusual. You can substitute2 ¼ poundsfrozenspinachfor freshspinachd you like

Hamwith bechamelsauce and mushrooms JJ.MCl'J o::'fO!i:KCOMSEC- I.MELY CH.£.IJPlt.:ONES

778

• 1J/10.1pssic ed mushr~ • 1½ tablespoonsbutter

• juice of 1/:lemonjlMce • 6 thick slicesof Smithfield, or otheroookedham • salt

Bedlamelsaoce: • 2 tablespoons (I/, stick) butt«

• 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 2 tablespoonsall-purposeflour

• scant2 cupsmilk • scant2 cups,chicken stoct

Put the mushrooms. butter. lemonjuice.and a pinch of salt into a pan.Coverand cookO\·er lowhe.Jtfor 6 minutesMeanwhile . make the bechamel sauce Melt the butter Mth the od in a skilfet Stir in the flour andcook.stirring constantly. for 2 minutes.Graduallystir in themilk. a littl e at a time Cook stirringconstantfy.for 2 minutes. then gradually stir in thestock. alittle at a time. Sprinklein thecurry powder and seasonto tastewith salt. Cook.stirring constantly. for 5 minutes then add the mushrooms.md cookingjuices. Remove thepan from the he.at Pile the slicesof ham togethe r andadd to the sauce. let stand until they have warmed through. Just before serving,usea fork to separatetheslicesof hamand placethem. one at a time on a warmserving dish. foldingthem in half. Reheatthe bechamelsauceandpourit O\·er theham.Sen·eimmediately.

(tlomemad e or made w;tha bouillon cube) • smallpinchofcl#ry powder

• salt se,.,,-es6

California hamwithpineapple

779

JJ.MCl"J CJ..IFCRIIIJ.M COf.lPl~~• 1caMed ham. 61/2pounds • 11h cups bcownsugar • 10- 14cloves

• 2¼ cups,grapefruit jlk e • J.-4 canned pineapple slioes. drai ned and halved

• 6 canned or bottled mo.-ello.

montmercyorothersour cherries in syrup, chin ed

and hatved Se"WS

:o-:!

Preheattheovento350~f.Trimtheedgesoi theham.leavi:nga piece about thesize of a largebeefroast.( Thetrimmings can be usedfor another recipe.} Usinga sharp knife. score a diamondpattern in the top Coatthehamall O\·er Withthe sugar pressing it into themeatto prevent rt fallingoff. Inserta clo\·e into each cornerof thediamonds. Putthehaminto a roasting pan. pourthegrap:efrUit juiceover it. and bakefor 1hour or accordingto theinstructionson the can.Arrange thepineappleslicesand cherneson top of thehamand returnto the O\'en for about5 minutesto let thepineapple warmthrough Cut the haminto slices. placeon a warm servingdish. andserve w,th boiled rice or PotatoSalls(seerecipe 231).

f,P

V:>T

780

Californian ham in beer JJ.MOf.l ci111rcn:11 i1.!i0Eli CE~VEZI.

• 1canned ham.61/2pounds

· 1 1/1cups brownsug.v • 10- 14dows

• 2 ¼ cups beer • 3-4 cannedpineappleslices. drainedandhal~

• 6 cannedor bottl ed mo.-e l)o.

montmercy or othersour cherriesin syn..,. drained and hahoed

Preheat the oven to 350i f. Tri m the edgesof the ham. leaving a pieceabout the s12eofa largebeefroast.Us,nga sharp knife score a diamond pattern in the top. Coatthe hamall O\'er with the sugar. pressing it into the meat to pre\·ent it falling off. Insert a dO\'e into eachcorner of the diamonds Putthe ham into a roastingpan, pour the beer o,•er rt, andbakefor l hour or accordingto the instructions on the can. Arrangethepmeappte slices andthemes on top oi the hamand returnto theoven for about 5 minutesto let the pineapple warm through.Cut thehamintoslices. placeona warm serving dlsh. and servewith boiledrice or Potato8all s (seerecipe 231)

781

Ham sandwiches EM:i~.REOJ.OOS OEJ.£.l,ION 0£ YORK

• 3 largeslicesor 6 smallslices

ot Smithfield,Btacl:Forest or otherdry-curedham • 12slicesofbread

• l¼cups nilk • 2 eggs • sunfloweroil. fordetp-fry.,g

Ma•es6

tf us,ng the large slices of ham, cut in half. Usmg the bread. make six hamsandwichesand soak thembriefly in themilk.Putthesandwiches on a suriace lightly werghthemdownw,th a lid or a plate. and let stand for 30 minutes Remove the weight and cut each sandwich diagonally inhalt li ghtly beatthe eggsin a shallow d!sh. Heatthe od in a deep-fryeror deep skilletto350- 375' F or until a cubeof day-old bread brownsin 30 seconds Oneat a time coat the s.and wichesin

thebeatenegg. Addto thehot od.in batches. and cook. turning once. until golden brown on both sides RemO \'e with a slotted spatula, dram andkeepwarm wtule you cook the remainingbatches.

782

Hamcroquett es C~OQu::n,s DEJ.£.l,ION CEYORK

• 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 3 tablespoonsbutter • 4 tablespoonsalt-purposefloor

• 3 cups,milk • 2 eggs • 3 cups,bteadcrumbs • vegetableoil.ford eep-frying

• salt

• fresh« ~p-ftied parsley sprigs(see r~ipe 918).optiooal

fili llg'. • lcupveryfinetydlopped Strithfiekfor B1ack forest

ham. prosciuttoor otherdry curedham

Se",-esC

783

Makea bechamels.auceby heatingthe sunflower oil in a pan Add the butter and when rt h:ls melted. stir in the flour with a wooden spoon.Gradua lly stir in the milk a little at a time. and cook. stirring constantly. until the bechamelsauceth.ckens. Sea.s on withs.altand stir in your chosen filling,thenspread the mixture out in a largedish to cool for at least 2 hours Usmg two tablespoons. shape scoops of the mixture into croquettes. . Finishforming the croquettes.with your hands..Beatthe eggsin a shallowdish. Pour the breadcrumbs into another shallow dish Roll each croquettelrghtly in the bread crumbs..then inthe beatenegg andfinally inthe breadcrumbs.again. making sure thateach one is evenly covered Heat the vegetableoil in a deep-fryer or deeppan to 350-375i For unti l a cube of day•old breadbrownsin 30 seconds. Workingin batchesof about 6 at a time. add the croquettes.. and cook until crisp andgolden brown. Using a slottedspoon. transfer them to a large colanderset over a baking dish andplace in a warm O\'en until all the croquettes have been cooked Ser\'e immediately on a dish garrushed with sprigs of fresh or cfeep·fned parsley

Friedfillets of York hamwith bechamelsauce fll!-ES C: Jfl.MOIIDEYC~,(CO"l8:CHfl.M:LYEMF~.!ifl.DOS

• 3 thict slicesof Smithfield, Black Forest« other dry-cured

ham. about4 ounceseadl • sunfloweroil.for deep-frying. plus extra for brushing

Bechamelsauce : • 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 2 tablespoonsall•pl#posefloor • 2 ¼ cups rrilk

•,alt Breading: • 2 eggs • 1½ cups,breadcrumbs

Se",-es3

Preheatthe O\'en to 400°f. Cut the slices of ham into stnps about ~ inch wide Make the bechamel sauceas described in recipe77 Coatandcookthe ham asdescribed in recipe : 716 Ser\'e garnishe d with fnedparsley s.pngs asdescribedin recrpe918

Lamb

l'lf Ck sli Cf S

Spring lamb This is thenamegNen to lambthahs lessthan oneyear old-usually betv.een fi\'eJndse\·enmonths-but hasbeenweaned.lt1s themost commonlyavailabletype of lamb The meatof spring lamb shouldbe a clear red colorwith firm. creamywhrte fat. Allowabout 7 ounces per servmg

Milk lamb Themeat from milk lamb- an animal 30-40 daysold- ls a pale rosy pink Alsocailedmlk·fedlambinsomeplaces, it hastessnutrbonal value than spnnglamb but is deliaous. Althoughverypopularin Spain and other southerni uropeancountnes. milk lambis less widely J\'Jilableelsewhere . Allowabout9 ouncesp:erserving.

Spring lamb Buyinglamb

Suitableaits

Weightper serving

Cookingtime

fried, broiled or gril ed

R:bct.ops:,Lcw,:nctiops

7-Soonces (>m•bon •)

5mil'l.l:esoneachsid.(medllm)

Roasted 11

leg. Sltoulcfer

7-Soonces (>m•bon •)

15-20 mmutesper poimd

StewKI « braised

Shoulder. Necksic e. Breast

7-Soonces

1¼ hours for stews 1;; hoi.s tor casser~es

1

Makesurethat the ovenis preheated

Milk lamb Buyinglamb

Suitablecuts

Weightper serving

Cookingtime

fried, broiled or gril ed

Rb chops.loin chops

9our,ces

3m:rwtesonea:ohsi:de

Roasted 11

Halfa m:Ik lamb

9ounces

25-30 mioo:esperpour.cl

StewKI « braised

Olops,Shoulder,Neckslice

9ounces

1;;hours

• Mab sure that the OVfflis preheatKI

652

'.l(H

Roastmilk lamb

784

CORO EROLECH.t;LAS.£.!)0 • ¼nilklamb

• 1 clovegarlic , 1.4 cup lardor 3- 4

tablespooM

sunfloweroil • 1 teaspoonwhie•WWl'vinegar

· salt Se".-es6

785

Preheatthe O\'en to 350~f Rub the lamb with the garlic. spread the lard or oil all over it and sprinkle withs.alt. Put it into a roastingpan and roast until cooked to your lik.1 ng. basting occasIonally with the cookingjuices. alloYiing25- JOminutesper pound. About 15minutes before the end of the cook.mg time brush the Vinegarall over the lamb Ser\'e hot

Roastlegof spring lamb 0

• llegoflamb.l¼-4¼pounck · 2 clovesgar1ic • 1.4 cup lardor 3-4 tablespoons sunfloweroil • 1 teaspoonwhie•wi"I?vinegar • navybeangarnish

(seereCC)e 221) · salt Se...,es~

E~N.r. OECORO EROPJ.SCU.£..AS~O.t.

Rub thelamb allO\'erwith thegarlic, spreadthelard or brushthe oil al O\'er it. and sprinkle with salt. let stand in the refrigerator for l hour Preheatthe oven to450°i . Putthelamb into J roastingpanand roast for 15 minutes. then lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Roast. bastingoccas,onally.un1i1the lamb ls cookedto your hking. allowing about 15-20 minutesper pound About 15m.nutes before the end of thecookingt.me brushthe vinegarall over the lamb. When theme.at is cooked, turn off the ovenbut le.ave the lambto rest in ,t for about 5 minutes. Remo ve the legfrom the roast.ngpan and carve. colfect· ingall the juicesreleasedPut a little hot water into the roastingpan. add thejuicesfrom the carving. and cookO\'ermedium heat.stirnng and scrap,ng up any M s from the baseof the pan Garnish the lamb with the navybean garnishandser\'e immediately.otteringthe sauce separatel y. Themeatcan beaccompaniedby fried or MashedPotato (seerecipe 230). if you like.

786

Sepulvedana roastlamb CORO:RO •S.£.!)(l ALASEFUL\'EOJ.t,i~.

.4cups,lardor

• 1

3-4 tablespoonssunfk>WH oil · lmilk lamb

• salt Bastingsauce:

• 2 sprigsfreshparsley • 2 clovesgar1ic.Ll'lpeeled • lbay leaf

• ¼largeonion • 2 tablespoons wflite-wineri1egar

PreheattheO\'ento350~i Spre.adthe lardorbrushthe oilall O\'erthe lamb seasonwith salt.andput the meatinto a roastingpan Roast for about15mmutes . until thelambis beginningto brown.Meanwtule put all theingred[entsfor thebastingsaucein a pan,pol.I'in generous l cup water. and bnng to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.Removefrom the heat and strain into a pitcher. When the lambisbegmrung to brown.pour the basting sauceO\'errt (You couldput somepotatoesin theroastingpanaroundthe lambri you like.) Roast,bastingoccasionallyuntil the lambis cookedto your liking,allowingabout25-30 minutesper pound Whenthe lambis cooked. turn off the oven but lea\'eto rest in it for about5 minutes before carvingit.

• ;uiceof I lemon • salt. to taste

Se...,esC- 8

t,.ote Thls style of cookingroast lambis popular in the Sepulvedana regionof Spain.

787

Roast lambwith eggandtomatosauce CORO EROi1.S.t.!)0 s:R\'100CO"lSi1.LSI. o: Y~MAS YNRE OETo.Yr£.

, 1.4 cup lardor 3- 4 tablespooM

sunfloweroil • llegof lamb.l 1.4-4¼pounc:k • 1 smallonion.halved

• lbou(Jletgami (2 sprigs fresh parsley,1/: bay leaf.and1clovegarlictied

togetherindleesedoth) • 1/,cup whitewine • 4 t.ablespoMtomatopaste

· 2 eggyolks • ;uiceofl lemon • 11/r tablespoonschopped

fresh parsley

• 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter • salt andpe:pper

Se".-es6-8

788

Preheatthe O\'ento 450°F Spreadthe lamb with the lard or brush with the oil. seasonwith s.altand pepper. and put the meat into a roast,ng pan. Put an onion half on either s,de add the bouquet gami.and roastfor lOminutes.Lowerthe oven temp:erature to350~f and roast for 15 minutes more then pour the wineover the lamb. Returnto the ovenandroast,bastingoccasiona Uywith the cooking juices for 15 minutesmore. Add the tomato pasteto the cooking juicesandreturn the lambto the oven for another5- 10 minutes. until cookedto yourliking.Garve thelamb. placeft on a servingdish. coverrt w,th aluminumfoil. andkeepwarm.Pour the cookingjuices into a heatproofbowl and usea tablespoonto skimoff the fat from thesurface.Setthe bowlovera panof barelysimmeringwater.Be.at the eggyolkswith the lemonjuiceandparsleyin anotherbowl.Stir in a i tt!e of the cookingjuicestopre,·ent the eggyolkscurdling then addto the cookingjuices togetherwiththe butter.be.at 1ngconstantly with a whisk. Continue to beatuntil the sauceis shiny. thenremove fromthe heat andpourinto a warmsauceboat.Serve the lambwith thesauceimmediately.

Stuffed leg of lamb 0

• scantl ½ cups, finely choppedmushrooms

• 11/r tablespoons butter • ;uiceof½ lemon • 6 sausages.skinned · 5 tablespoonssherry

or other sweetfortified wine • pinchof nixeddriKI herbs • 1 bonelessleg of lamb. 2 ½--3¼ pounds • 1/2cup al -purposeflour

· 3 tablespoons oliveoil · salt Se•ws6-B

E~NJ. OECORO EROPJ.SCU.£.. REtlEf-1~.

Preheatthe oven to 350i f. Put the mushrooms. butter. lemon Juice. anda pmchof salt in a pan. CO \'er. andcook O\'er lowheat for 6 minutes.Removethe panfrom the heat Combmethe meatfrom the sausageshalfthe sherry. the driedherbs andthe mushrooms in a bo'N I. spoonthe mD:ture into the center of the legof lamb.and sewor tie up the leg with fine lutchen stnng. form.ng a ne.atshape Season the lambwithsalt andlightlycoatit in the flour. shakingoff anyexcess.Putthelambintoa roastingpanwiththeoil andremaining sherryandroast turrung it severalt,mesandbastingoccasionally with the coolung juices. for 1-1¼ hours. until bro'Nnedal O\'ff and cookedto yourliking. Lift the lamb out of the roastingpan,remove

anddiscar d thestring . chickens tock

(homemade. canned« made with a bouillon cube)

• salt 5e...,-es6

)

800

Lambwith garlic andtomato CORO EROi1.ti\,JILLO v·ovrE

• 4 tablespoonsoile oil • 3¼- 4 1/:poundsstewinglamb. such~ br eastor neck slices,

cut into pieces • 1 tablespoonbread cturn~

• 1 head garlic.peeled • 1 veal «ch icken bouillon cub e dissolved in genero~ 1cup

boilWlg wat er

· salt Tomato sauce: • 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 2 ¼ poundsveryripe tomatoes. Pffled.seeded.andchopped • pindl of ni xed dried herbs or 1 oouc,ietgami(l bay leat and1 s,prigfresh thymetied t ogetherin cheesedoth)

• 1 teaspoonsugar

· salt Se".-es6

Make a thick tomatosauce as descnbedin recipe i3 Remo ve and discard the bouquet garni. 1f used, before processingin a food processor or blender. Heat the oi in a heavy pan or a Dutch oven Addthe lamb and cook overmedium heat.st.rringoccasionally. for 8-10 minutes. unti evenly bro'Nned. Sprinkle in thebreadcrumbs. add thetomatosauce . garliccloves. and stock.andseasonltghtlywith salt. Cover and simmero,•er low heat for 1½hours. until the lamb ls tende r. Removeanddiscard thegarlicand serve immediatel yaccorn· paniedby fned potatoes. boiledrice or triangles of fned bread(see recipe 130)

801

• 18 lanti ri, chops, • sunfloweroil.for deep-frying. plusextrafor brushing

• 2 eggs • 11/:cups,btead crumbs

• salt Bechamelsauce : • 2 tablespoons(1.4sticl:)butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 2 tablespoonsatl•pl#po-seflour

• 2¼cups nilk • salt Se!"\i!SC

Ribchopswith bechamelsauce c-u_no.sDEC0~DEn:0 cor-. 6ECH.O,1Et Scrapeawaytheme.atandcoM ective tissuefrom thetop 2 inches of the chop bones.Seasonthe cut1ets with salt. Heat6 tablespoons of od in a skillet. Add the chops. in batches. andcook overmedi:um he.atfor about3 minutesoneachside. or until cookedto yourlikmg Removefromthe skillet andset aside.Resen·etheoil in the skillet 8rush a surfaceor cuttingboard withoil.Makethebechamelsauce Melt the butterwrththeoil in anotherskillet. Stir in theflourandcook. st1rnng constantly, for 2 minutes Graduallystir in the milk, a little at a time Se.ason with salt and cook, stirring constantly. for about 10minutes. untilthickened RemO\'e the skillet fromtheheat Holding the chopsby the bone.dip them. oneat a time. into the bech.a mel sauce to coat Put them onto the oiled surface or cutting board .and let cool. Beatthe eggsin a shallowdish andpour the breadcrumbs into J11 other shallow dish Add the remaining oil to the reserved otl in the skillet or transfer both lots oi oil to a deep-fryerandheatuntil a cube of day•old breadbrov,nsin 30 seconds Coateachlambchop, first in the beatenegg.andthen in the breadcrumbs.Add to the hot od in batches. and cook until golden brownall over RemO\'e v,ith a slotted spatula drain. and keepwarmv,hileyoucookthe remaining batches Ser\'e immediately.

802

Lambchopswith kidneys CHUtEU.S DECO~DEn:O cor-. n.1t.:ONES

• 5 tablespoonsbutter. softened

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh tarragon • 8 lambchops

• 6tablespoo,nsofiwoil • 4 sic esofbaoon

• 4 tambs'kidneys.co.-ed • 16 cheny tomatoes

• salt

Be.atthe butter with the herbs in a bowl until thoroughly combined Coverand ctull in the re-fngeratorunti required.Se.asonthe chops with salt Heattheoil ina skillet Addthechopsand cooko\·ermedium

heat for about 3 minuteson eachside. until e\·enly brownedand cookedto your fiking.Removefrom the panand keepwarm.Add the baconandk,dneysto the panand cook for a few minuteson each side. until the baconis goldenbrown andthe kidneysare just firm. RemO\'fandkeepwarm Melt l tabtespoonof the herb butter in

a small pan. Addthe tomatoesandcook. st,rrin,goccasionally. tor 3-5 minutesunti softenedbut not falling apart.RemO\'e the pan fromtheheat Oi\'idethechops.bacon.kidneys.andtomatoesamong fourwarmindividualplates Topeachchopw,th ½tablespoonof the remainingherbbutterandserveimmediately.

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Chicken History andcuriousfacts Chickensare domesticbirds that originatedin Asia more than sa thous.and yearsago.Theyare mem·bersof the Galhnaceanfamily. Theirheadsare adornedwith a red crest and they ha\'eabundant plumageandstronganklesarmedv;ithspurs Thesedaystheirslze

and we.,ghtcan varygreatly dependingon the breedand place of ongin.Thereare notceabledifferencesbetweenmale and female birds as a resultof manyyearsoi careful cross-breed ing designed to imprO\'feitherme.ator egg production.Todaychickenls a very popularfoodstuffanda favoritewithal consumersalthough not long agoit wasseenonlyon the tablesofthe better-oft Thisde\'elopment is the result of researchby the agncultural and farmingindustries into improvingthe ti.rds d et and usingproceduresin their rearing that cut the costsof product.onand. consequently . the priceto the consumerTherearemanydifferent breedsof chicken comingfrom a varietyof geograp hical locatons ihe mostwidespreadandinten· Si\'elyreared chickensare the American andMediterranean breeds. wtuch in turn. subdi\'ideinto different groupswith similar slzesand characteristics

Valuefor money Thequalityof chickenmeat is assessedon the age weight and sex of the bird. Much can be judged from the bird's appeara nce-the textureoi the leg and breastmeat andthe cleannessandsmooth· nessof the slun The colourof their skm however. is not an indicator of quality.somechickenshave yellowskin. while others.white This is the result of variationsin feedandprocessing.lntensiVelyreared chickenscostconsderabfylessChanorganicandbarnyardbirdsand supermarkets . inpart cul.ar. sellwholectuckensandchickenportions at verylow prices. In fact chickenis currentlyone of the cheapest animal proteinsavailable

Nutrition Chickenis a rich sourceof hr.gh~qua lity protemandpro\'idesall the essentialammoacidsthat the humanbodyrequires for growth and

maintenanceIt is relatrvely lowin calones and the v,hlteme.at m particular.is towin fat

Calories(\cal)

•-m)

Rawchicbn

173

20

05

lO

Roastchicken

192

28

0

lO

Braised chtebn

233

20

0

17

fried chicken

305

20

0

25

Ctlk:kt11•.at

!,_.

3lnourteeS)

Chicken is easily dr.gest ble. Tradit.ona lly. it has been considered surtablefor peoplesuffenngfromay;idevarietyof C>,gestive dlsorders andin the dtetof the elderly ft is a good sourceof iron.phosphorus. andB groupvitam,ns. espe·Clally niacmYoungerbirdshave lessfat andare good for roasti ng andfrying whileolder birdsarebetter for stewingandbraising.Theamountof fat variesaccordingto the age. type, Jnd quality of the bird. Contrary to popular belief.there1s no differencein the nutriti onalvalueof white anddark me.atexceptthat the formercontainsmorenicotinic acid a B groupvrtamin. than the latter. Thewhrteme.atconta ns lesscoM ecbve tissueand fat than the darkme.atmakingit slightly more digestibleThefat contentls higherin the skin thanin therest oi themeat.so peoplewrthdtetary concerns maybe Jd'iisedto eat skinlesschicken.

How to prepare Thesedays, mostchi~ ensare sold asoven-ready. Howe\·er. ifthls is not thecasehereiswhatyoudo Tomakepluckingeas,:er . submerge the chicken in boilingwaterfor 1 minute. holdingit by the legs. This processdoeshave the dis.ad vantagethat the meatmay losesome flavor After do,ngthisit isadvisableto s ngethe bird O\'era candle or other flame First check carefully that no wrapping or identificat.on tag is left on the bird. thenbegin the processof openingthe wings and extendingthem Stretch out the bird holdingrt by the neckand legs. Passthe wholesurfaceof the chickenO\'er a flameso that all theremainingfeathers are scorched. but take care not to burn the skin. The next stepis to cleanthe chicken Putit on a work surface. bre.a. st sideup. and then pull hard on theskin of the neck so that it is smooth. Make a small cut near the parson s nose{the protuberance from the re.Jr end of the bird) and under 1t. Insert two fingers into this holeand pull gently All the iMardsshould come out together· li\·er. lungs. he.art etc Chee+:that nothing remains. Tocle.anthefeet. which are delicious when usedin stock..submerge them in boding waterfor30 seconds. then usea cloth to pul the skinoff asif it were aglo,·e. Another way ls to burn the skinandremove it in pieces

Howto truss a chicken Coverthe openingat theneckYiiththe O\'erhang~ng skin. Takequrte a long pieceof fine kitchenstring with both hands.Passthe string underthewings.alsocatchingCheneck,thencrossrt O\'erthecentral breastboneand fold the wings Crossit again underneathbring it backto the top, andtie it wherethelegsjoin

Howto cut up a rawchicken Themostimportant thing is to find theJoints. Put the chicken bre.a.st side up put the knife betweenthe thigh and body then hold Che thigh, and dislocatethe joint. finallycutting the skin Repeaton the othersideof the bird. Cut the legsin two. Alsocut the wingsin two. putting the knife in at the jomt Nowseparatethe breast from the bade cuttingalongthe baseof the ribs. Pull the chestcavitywith yourhand.Cut the backsectionin halfby cutting out the backbone imaUy cut the breastsin halflengthwisealongthebreastbone

Howto carvea roastchicken Thls requiresa carvi:ngboardor tray.a carvingknife and forte and a warmservingd sh. tf you·renotgoin,gto ser\'ethe chicken immed1· ately. havesomealuminumfoil readyto cover the dish to pre\·entit becom,ng cold. Toseparatethe legsfromthe body. put the chicken in the center of the carvingboardor tray and hold rt steadywiththe can•ing fork.ihen cutthroughthethrgh joints.Nextcut off the wings putting the knife ll to the joint wrth the back t.ext. separatethe breastfrom the carcass.cutting along the breastbone to separate the bre.astinto twoparts Shptheknife underthe breastto separate rt from the carcass.Cut the legs in two at the joint. Nevercut the cookedchict en on the sameboard,or with the sameutensils. that youusedto preparert when raw Doingsocould infectthe bird with harmfulbacteria that werepresentin thebird whenit wasraw.These bacteriaare destroyedin cooking. but can be remtroduced d the meatcomesintocontactwith toots usedto preparethe rawbird

803

Chickencookedin a Dutchoven.or casserole :IQLO,1.s,1.00 Er-.i:Cccc--E Oc.r,c:ROL.t,

• lchicbn.3¼ - 4¼poLl'ldS

• 3 thin slioesofbacon • 2 ½ tablespoonslard « butter • 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• ;uiceof 1/: lemon • salt Ser\1es.i- 5

804

Seasonthe chickenwiths.altandput onebaconsliceO\'er thebreast one O\'er the back. and the third insidethe chicken. Trusswith fine stnngasdescribedon page676.Meltthe lardor butter withthe oil in a Dutch O\'en or heavy pan.Addthe chicken and cookO\'ermedium heat turningfrequently. for 8- 10minutes. unti lightJybrov;nedon au sides Cover the pan andcon1inueto cook over medium heat. allowing 15-20 minutesper pound. Check that the chickenls done by piercingthe thickestpartof Chethigh with the tip of a sharpknife. ri the juicesrun clear Jnd the meat is no longerpink. the chicken is cookedRemove thelid fromthepan,turnup theheat.andbrownthe chicken turning frequently. Lift the chickenout of the pan. remove and discard the string and bacon. carve the meat and put it on a warmserving dish Stir 4-5 tablespoonshot waterandthe lemon juice into the cookingjuices and bnng to a bod then pour into a sauceboat and servewith the chicken

Chickenwith lemons :ioLO CCIU O ES

• 11, cup oliveoil

• lchicbn.3¼ - 4¼poLl'ldS

• 1 largeonion.finetychopped • 3 lemons.cut intofourtM

• 1/,cupwhitewine • lcupchickenstoc k

(llomemade. cannedor madewith a bouiUoncube )

• 1 bay leaf • 1 tablespoonsugar

• salt Ser.~.i

Heat the od in a Outcho,·enor he.avy basedpan. Addthe chicken and cook over mediumheat. turning frequently for 8-10 minutes. until browned allO\'erRemove from the panand keep warm.Addthe onion to the pan and cook overlow he.at stIrnng occasionally. for 6-7 minutes until lightly browned. Put threeof the lemonquarters into the cavityof the chickenand return the chickento the pan Put the remaininglemonquarter around it Pourthe wineand then the stockinto the pan.addthe bayleaf.sprinklein thesugar.and se.a.son with salt Coverands mmerfor about45 minutes. until the chicken is cookedthrough and tender Checkthat the chickenls done by piercingthe th.ckestpart of the ttughwith the tip of a sharpknife. ri the juices run clear Jnd the meat is no longerpink. the chickenis cookedl ift the chickenout of thepan. car\'e the meat.andput iton a warms.e rvtngdish.Stram the saucethrough a coarsestrainer into

a saucebOilt Serve the ch~ken withthesauce. accompa niedby yellownee(seerecipe191) or croutons.

805

Roastchicken with grapefruit or oranges PCLL0AS.O0cm,POI.IELCS0 .i,1\,1.IIJ.l,S

• lchicbn,31/, - 4 pounds • 2 tablespoonstnndy

• 2 grapefruit«4 oranges • 2 slicesof bacon . 11,cup lard or

3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 4-Swatercress sprigs «mesclun • salt andpepper

Se",-esC

806

Preheatthe oven to 400~F Se.Jsonthe chickeninside and out with salt andpepper andplacein a roastingpan. Peel one of the grape· frUJ t or two of the orangesandcut out the segments discarding the bitter Ythite pith. He.at the brandy in a small pan for a few seconds and ,gnrte When it hasbumedfor a moment pour 1t into the chicken and add the atrus segments.Put oneof the sli cesof OOc on

• salt $e"',-eS6

Seasonthechickenwithsalt andput oneof thebaconslicesO\·erthe bre.a.st. oneoverthebackandthethirdinside thechicken.Trusswith finekitchenstringasdescnbedonpage676. Meltthelardor heatthe oil in a Outchovenor he.avypan and cook the chicten asdescribed in rec,pe 803 for about 45- 60 minutes Chedtthat rt is doneby piercingthe ttuckestpart of the ttughwith the tip of a sharpknrfe: ri the juicesrun clearandthe meat is no longerpink. the chickenis cookedMeanvihile.cookthe riceasdescribedinrecipe173.Tomake thesauce.melt the butterw,th the oi in a skillet Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes Graduallystir in themilk and thenthe stock.a little at a tune Cook st1rnng constantly.for about 10minutes.until thictened Seasonto tastewrth saltand stir in the curry powde r. Lightlybeat the egg yolkin a bowt. stir in a little of the sauce. then add to the pan Remo\'efrom the heat Lift out the chickenfromthe pan, removeanddiscardthe stringand bacon.and can·ethe meat.Transferthe meat toa servingffled.seeded. anddiced

• 1 clovegarlic • 1 chicten bouilloncube

• 1 largesprigfreshparsley • ¼ cup whitewine

• salt and ptppe:r Se".-es.i

836 • 2¼pounckostrichfillet

• 1 wta ite wine • 1c14>olive oil • 1 bouc,, et gami (1 clovegarlic. 1 bay leaf. 2 sprigs fresh parsley. and 1 s,pog freshthyme tied together incheewdotfl)

• l onion.cutinto4wedges • 2 ripetomatoes. seededandcut into fourtM

• 6-12 Savoycabbagele.ains • 11/: tablespoonsbutter

• 2 tablespoonssunfloweroil • 1½ tablespoonsall-purpose

flou, • l c14>milk

• scantl cupgrated gruyerecheese • salt Ser•,-esC

Seasonthe cavrties of the partridgeswith sail and put them into a largepan or a Dutch O\'en with the wine. olive oil. bouquet garni. onion. tomatoes. and a pinch of salt Pour in 1 cup water. CO\ 'er. and cookoverlowheatfor about 11/4hours. until the partridgesare tender MeJnYthile. bring alargepan ofsaltedwater toa bod.Add thecabbage lea\'es. pushing themdown into thewater with a slottedspoon CO \'Ef. andcook for about 20 minutes. Drain well and set aside lift out the partndgesfrom the pan reservingthe cookingliquid and carve the meat.like chict en. Oi,•ide the meatamongthe cabbageiea..·es. then fold over thelea\·esto form packages . Transferto anovenproof baking dish Dis.card the bouquetgarni from the resef\'edcookinghqUJ d and pa.ss the li quid througha food mill or processin a blenderor food processor. then set aside Preheat theoven to 400°F Melt thebutter with the sunflower od in a skillet Stir in the ftour and cook st,rrin,g constantly. for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the milk a litee at a time. Cook stirnng constantly. for about 6 minutes. untJ. I thickened. then add ½cup of the cookingliquid. MiXwell. cook for 5 minutes more. seas.onw,th salt and pour the sauceover the cabbagepactages Sprinkle wrth the gruyere and bake for about l5 minutes. until the topping is golden brown.Ser\'e immediately, straight from the dish.

855

Partridgeswith orange P:ROCESEhSALSA CO\'CASCA=!A JE IU,RAl\:JJ.

• 5 tablespoonsolWeoil • 2 partridges

• 2 largeonions.chopped • 1 heaping tablespoon all-purp~e flour

• 1/,cupwhitewine • 1 chicten bouilloncube

• fiiety gratedzestot 2 oranges

• juice ot 1orange • salt

Heat the od in a largepan or a Dutchoven Add the birds and cook over medium heat turning frequently, for 8-10 minutes, mtJI e\·enly brownedall over.Remo ve from the panand set as,de Add

the onionto thepan andcook overlow heat st.rringoccas,onally. for 8 minutes. until beginning to brov;n Stir in the flour and cook. st1rnng constantly. for 5 minutes. Returnthe partridgesto the pan. pour thewineover them. andadd warmwater to cover.Crumbte the bouillon cube.mix with a litt 1e hot water. and add to the pan along with the orangezest Season to tastewith salt co,·er.and bring to a boi. then towerthe heat.andsimmergently for l ¼- 1¼ hours until the partndgesaretender. Remove the birds fromthe pan. cut them in half lengthv;ise.and put on a warmserving dish Passthe sauce through a food mill or processin a blenderor food processor. stir in the orangeiUice. and season to taste wrthsalt Spoon a little of the sauceover the meat andserve immediately. offenng the rest of the s.auceseparately Thedish can be served With macaroni tossed in butter and grated cheese.Mashed Potato(see recipe 230). or Srussels sproutssauteedin butter.

t-.ote: Ii the s.auce becomestoo thin when the orangejwceis added. mixin 1teaspoonpotatostarchdlssolved in l tablespoon water. Cook the sauceover low he.at stirring constantly.tor 2- 3 minutes. then serve JS abO\'e

805 Roast chicken wrthgrapefruit orcxanges with pinenuts_ 811 Braisedchicken greenbellpeppers. andtomatoes

828 Capon stuffed with pears witholives 831 Braisedduckling

840 Rabbit cooked witholivesandalmonds withgrapes 853 Partridges

863 Quailinpotatonests 874 Chicken andhamterrine

840

856

Partridgeswith cabbage PERO CESCO'lREFO_LO

• 2 partridges

• 4sicesoUeanbaooo. Canadianbacon« turkeybacon • 3 tablespoonsoliveoil

• 1 tablespoonaU-purpos,e flour • pinch of mixeddriedhfflls

or 1 bouquetgami(1 clovegarl ic. 2 sprigs fresh parsley.1sprig fresh thyme. and1 bayleat tied together indleesedoth)

• 5 ouncesslabbaoon.

cut intostrips, • 1 Savoycabbage.shredded · ¼ teaspoonmeatextract

or Mafi:i Seasoning · salt

Season the caVities of the partridges with s.al t put a slice of lean baconover the breastand backof each one and tie in pl.acewith fine kitchen stnng He.atthe oil in a largepanor a Dutch O\'en Add the birdsandcook over mediumheat.turning frequently. for 8-10 min· utes. until e\·enly brownedall over Spnnkle the flour i'lto thepanand pour in warmwaterto comehalfway~ the partndges Add the dned herbs or bouquetgarni and se.ason withs.alt.Srin,gto a boi . tower the he.atto medium. cover and cookfor about l ¼ hours Bring a pan of saltedwater toa bod and add the slabbacon.Whenit comesback to a boil. add the CJbba:ge pushing it do'Nninto the water with a slotted spoon. and cook for 20 minutes Drain well and placethe cabbage and baconaroundthe partridges. Cook for !Ommutesmore until the partridgesare tender. lif t the birdsout of the pan. and remove and dis.car d the baconand string. Cut the partndgesin halffength'Nise and put on a warm serving dish. Remove and discard the bouquet garni, if used. Drain the cabbageandbacon. reservingthe cooking liquid. and placearound the partridges. tf the cooking liquid is too thin. cook. unco\·ered. c,yer high heat.until slightly reduced Strain. st.r in theme.atextract or MaggiSeaso ning. and s.er\'e in asauceboat with thepartridges.

Partridgescookedwith hot vinegar

857

P:Ro CESGUSi'.OASCONVll'ti1.G=:£ CA. IEln. • 3 small partridges • generous½ cup lard

or 1/, cup oive oil • 1 largeonion. chopped • 3 carrots. sliced

• 1/, cupwhit ewine • 5 tablespoons

wflite-wine vinegar • 1 chicten bouillon cube • pindl of mixed drikf herbs or l bouc,iet gami (1 sprigfrESh

thyme. 2 bay leaves. I sprigfresh

parsley. and 1d ovegarlictie-cl together incheesedoth)

· salt Se....~6

\

Season the cavttiesof the partridgeswiths.alt.Meltthe lard or heat the od in a large pan or a Dutch O\'en Addthe partridgesandcook over medium heat turningfrequently. for 8-10 minutes, until e\·enty brov;nedall over. Remo\'e fromthe pan and setaside. Add the onion to the pan andcook over low heat. stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes m tll softenedand translucent Addthe carrot and cook. stirringoccasionally. for 10minutes more Return thepartridgesto the panand pourin the wineand vinegar Dissotve the bouilloncube in a little water in a bowl addto the pan and pour in just enough hot water to cover the birds completely Add the dried herbsor bouquet gami. s.ea.s on with salt cover. and cook O\'er low heat for about l ¼hours. until the partridgesare tender. l ift out the birds from the pan cut them in half lengthwise. and put on a warm serving dish Remove and discard the bouquet garni. if used Pass the s.auce through a food mill or processin a blender or food processor and pour overthepartridges. Serveimmediately,garrushedwith triangles of friedbread(seereccpe 130). 1f you like

858

Pickled partridges PERO CESESCJ.8 :CHAJAS

• 3 smal partridges

• '.4 cupolNeoil • 1onion.coarsely chopp ed

• 3 carrots.sic ed • 1bouquet garni

(1 sprig fr esh thyme. 2 bay lea'wti,1 spogfreshparsley. 1 stalk celery.and2 cllwesgarlic

tied together in cheesecloth) • 6 bladi:peppercorns • '.4cupMl ite wine

....,

• '.4 cupMlite-wine vinegar

Seasonthe ca\'itiesof the partndgeswiths.alt.lieat the oil in a large pan or a Dutchoven Add the birds and cookO\'ermetard

• 6 thinsic ~ of bacon • 6 slioesof fried bread

(see recipe130) • dressedwatercress or augula • s.,lt

Ser,,es6

ff usmgbrinedgrap:eleaves.soakthemin hot waterfor 20 minutes. then drain, rinse well.and pat dry. You do not needto soak fresh grapelea\·es . Preheatthe oven to 425tf. Seasonthe cavitiesof the quailwtth satt Spreada little of the lardon thegrapeleavesandstick themontothebirds· breasts Putthebacon(J(erthe birds' backsand spreJdwith the remaining lard. Trusswith fine lutchenstring. put into a roastingpan androastfor 15-20 mllutes. until tender.Utt out the quail from the roastingpan. removeand discardthe s1nng andgrapele.aves . andresen·ethe bacon. Placeeachquai on a slice of fned bre.adandtop with a baconslice Stir 3- 4 tablespoonshot waterinto the cookingjmcesandcook over mediumheat.scraping up anybrtsfromthe baseoithe roastingpan. for a fewminutes.Pour the s.auceover the quailandserveimmediately. garnished with the

watertress Of arugula

863

0

Quail in potato nests COOORMC ES ENf\1)0 JE ' A-ATJ.S PAJA

•6quai l • 1h

cup lard

• 6 thin slicesof bacon • 6 slicesof fried bread

(see recipe130) • 2 pounch8ounoespotatOfS, thinty slioedthencut into

fiiestraws • wnfloweroil.for dHp frying • salt

se,.,,-es6

Preheatthe oven to 425°FSeaso n the cavitiesotthequailwith salt Put the bacon o,•er the birds' backs andspre.ad with a lrttle of the lard.Trus.s w,thfine kitchen string, put intoa roastingpanandroast for 15-20 mmutes. until tender_Meanwhile. heatthe sunfloweroil in a deep-fryeror panto 350-375°F or until a cube of day-old bre.ad brownsin3OsecondsDividethepotatostrawsinto6 equalamounts. Spreadoneamount0\·er the baseandslightly up the sidesof a wire basket and lower into the hot od Cookfor about 2 minutes. until goldenbrown. then removefrom the oil anddrain.Repeatwith the remaining potato strJYiSPuta roastedquail. bre.ast uppermost.in each potato nest.top withthe bacon.Stir3- 4 tablespoonshot water into the roastingpan andcook O\·er medium heat.scraping up any bits from the baseoi the roastingpan. for a few minutes.Pour into a sauceboatand sen-eimmediate l y viiththe quail in potatonests.

864

Pan-cookedquail COOORt-i lC: S EN CJ.CEROLJ.

• 6 grapeleaves • 6quail •1

h c14>porklard

• 6th in slioesofbacon

• 3 tablespoonsoliveoil • 6slicesoffried bnad

(see recipe130)

• salt Ser•,-esC

865

ff us ng brinedgrapeleaves. soak them in hot water for 20 minutes. then drain.rinsewell.andpatdry You dooot needto soakfreshgrape le.aves Se.a. son the cavrtiesof the quail with salt Spreada littl e of the lardon the grapele.aves andst,ck them onto the birds' breasts. Put the bacon O\'er the birds backs and spreadwith the remamin,glard Trussv,ith finekitchenstring. Heattheoil in a heavy pan or a Dutch o,·en Add the quad and cook over mediumheat turning frequently. for about Sminutes. . until evenly brownedall over. Lower the heatand cook. unco\'ered. over mediumheatfor 15-20 minutes.. until tender lrf t out the quad remove and discard the string bacon, andgrape le.aves and put each bird ona sli ceof the fnedbread. Put onaser\'ing dishand keepv,arm. Stir in 4-5 tablespoons hot water into the pan and cook O\'er mediumheat stirring andscrap.ng up any brts from the base. for a few minutes. then serve the sauce in a sauceboat or poured O\'er thequad

Quail in white-wine sauce C000RNIC: S EN SJ.LSA

• 5 tablespoonsoliwoil · 12quail • 3 large onions. ffletychopped

• 1/,cup gameor chickenstock (homemade, cannedOf

made with a bouilloncube) • !teaspoon ~tardpowd er

• 1/,cup wlitew;ne • pinch of freshly gratednutmeg • pindl ofgroundciMamon

• salt and pepper Ser,,-esC

He.at theod in apan Add thequailandcookovermediumhe.at turning frequently. for about 5 minutes but do not let them brown_Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the on.ionto the pan andcook over lowheat.stirringocca.sonaily. for about 5 minutes.until softenedand translucent Put the quail on top of the on.ion.pressing them dov,n well. and pour in the stock. Stir the mustard into the wine and pour into the pan. then season with s.al1and pepper. and sprinkle in the nutmegandcinnamon. Cover and bring to a boil. thenfower the heat. and simmer gently for 1-2 hours until the birds aretender Put the quail on a warmserving dish andspoonthe sauce over them Ser\'e immediately with tnanglesof fned bread(seerecipe 130).

866

Braisedquail COOORt-ilCES GJISJ.OJ.S

• 5 tablespoonsoliveoil • llarge onion. chopped

• 6 tat IJlailor12 smallquail • ¼ cup all-purposeflour • pinch of freshlygratednutm.eg • pindlofgroundciMamon

• 1½- 2 1.4cupS,wlitewi'le • 1 bayleat

• 1 sprigfresh thyme

• salt andpe:pper

Se".-es6

Heattheoil in a pan_Addtheonionandcookoverlowheat.stirring occa.sonally.for about8 minutes.until beginningto brownCoatthe quai in the flour. shakingoff anyexcess.put theminto the pan and cook overmediumheat turning frequently.for about8 minutes. until evenlybro'Nnedall over Seasonwiths.altand p:epp:er. spnnkle in thenutmegandcinnamon , andpourin enoughwineto half cover the birds.Addthe bayleaf andthyme. CO\'erthe panwrth parchme nt paperthat hasbeencut in a circleto fit snuglyins,dethe pan. andput the lid on top CookO\'ermediumheat.shakingthepanocca.s.onally. for about 25minutes.until thequai aretender Utt out the birds and put them on a warmserving dish. Removeand discardthe bay leaf and thymespn,gpassthe saucethrougha food mm or processin a foodprocessororblender.andspoonit O\'erthequail.Sef\'eimmed1· ately garnishedw,th trianglesof fried bread(seerecipe130)

Pheasant

Selection t,.owadays pheasantsarewidelyawulableand relativelyinexpensive Thebest onesare about 12monthsold and the hen pheasanthas a finerfla\'Of andtexturethanthe cockphe.asantalthoughhe hasthe morecolorful plumageA henandcot+:are often soldin pairs.called a brace For tender tasty me.atthe phe.as.ant should be hung for at

le&st3 daysandupto2weeks mcoldwe4ther. farm·rasedbirdsdo not needto behung.Froma dietary pointof v,ew the mealhassome

similaritiesto chickenandhasabout200 calonesper 3 ¼ ounces. Youngti.rds.weighingbetv,·eenl ¾ poundsand 2 ¼ pounds can be roastedand will need to cook for 45-60 minutes. Older birds are better braisedandmo.stchickenrecipesworkv,·ellwithphe.asa nt

Howto clean like mostother gamebirds. phe.a.sants are widelyavailable oven· ready.If youdo haveto pluckanddrawa bird. chill it in there-fngerator torse\'eralhoursis ttuswill makert easier.fm,t.remove thebiggest featherson thewings. twistmgthem. thenpluckthe body. neck. and wingsin thatorder.Remove theentrails asyouv.oulda chickenand seasonthe cavrtywith salt Truss securelywith finekitchenstring. esp:ecia Uyif the bird is to beroasted.

867

Pheasantwith apples FJ.ISJ. NCONM.Af.lZANJ.S

• 1 pheasant.3¼-41/: pounds

Preheatthe oven to 450' F Seasonthe phe.a.sa nt inside and out

·generous¼cupgoosefat

with salt and truss viith fine kitchen stnng Melt half the goose fat

• ¼cup apple liqueur Of applejac k

or butterin a skil et Addthe pheasantand cookO\'ermedium heat turning frequently . for about 10 minutes until evenly brownedall o\'er.Meanwhile. peel. core. and slicethe apples.seas.on withsalt and p:epper. andmakea thick layerof abouthatfof themin the baseof

• saltandpepper

an ove nproofc~sserole Dotwiththe remaining goos.fat or butter

or scant½ cup butter

• 6apples • ¾ cuplight cream

S@"',"@S:i

and put the phe.Jsa nt on top Put the remaining applesaround the bird seas.on w,thsalt Jnd pepper.co,·er.androastfor about25-35 minutes.or until thepheasantis.tender.Just be-fore serving. gently he.attheere.am and app!e liqueur or appleJact in a panandpourover thepheas.ant

868

Roastpheasant f).ISJ.MSO POULAROJ;.SASJ.00S

• 1 pheasant.4 ½ pounth

• 4 thin slicesoUattybacon • generous¼ cup lard or 5 tablespoonssunfloweroiJ

• scant2 cupsgame« chickell stock(homemade.c-aMed or madewith bouilloncubes)

• generous¼cup di~

Serranohamor prosC-.tto • 2 carrots. siced

Preheatthe oven to 350°F Season the pheasant inStde and out with salt. cover the back andbreast with the bacon and truss with fine kitchen string Spread the lard or brush the oil O\'er the btrd and put 1t into a roastingpan Roa.st. turningoccasionally for 45 minutes. Lift out thepheasantremO \'eanddlscardthestrin,gand baconandcar\'e the bird. collecting thecar\'ingju ices Put themeati'ltoa pan v;ithth e car\'ingjuices. pour in the stock, andadd the ham. carrot. andbre.ad crumbs Cook over medium-low he.atfor about 30 minutes. unti l the carrot is tender Addthe peasand cook for 5-6 minutesmore unt,I heatedth rough. Sen·e immediately.

• 1 tablespoonbceadcrumbs • scant laip drained cannedpe~

• salt

t,.ote This dish can be garnished v;ith raw mushroom salad (see recipe476) or with artichoke hearts fned in a little oi and spri nkled with chopped fresh parsley

Terrines and meat loaves 869

Meatandchickenliver terrine PJ.S-Et-T:RR IIA JECAli:N:SV.,1; .RIAOJ; .S E - IGJ.0TOSDEFO.LO

• 9 ounceschiekfnMrs. thawed if froren.trimmed

• 14 ounoessb'l less boneless dlic ken breast halves • 5ouncesbaoon

• 12ouncesbonelesspork • 3 eggs.~tty be.aten • 4 t.ablespoMbrandy

• ¼cupheavycream

• ll ouncesSeanbacon.suchais Canadianbacon or turkey bacon.

tha'ltysliced

• 6dows • 1 sprigfr esh thyme • 2 bay le.ains

• salt and ptpper 5e...,-es8

Preheatthe oven to 350~F. Chopthe chickenlivers. chicken breasts. bacon.and pork and combine in a bowl. Stir in the eggsandbrandy. Whisk the creamin another bowl with an electric mixer. then add to the meatmixture. Seaso n with salt andpepper and mLXwel. Cover the baseands desof a terrine moldwrthtwo-thirds of the slicesof bacon. Fil the terrine mold wrththe meatmixture. pressng it down with a woodenspoon. Cover Yiith the remaining slicesof bacon and pushthe clO\'es into them. then put the thyme and the bay le.aves on top Put the lid on the terrine mold placert in a roasting pan. and pour in hot water to comeabout halfway up the sides Sake tor l ½ hours. then tum off the O\'en and leave the terrine inside until rt hascooled. Remo ve the terrine mold from the oven take off the lid. cover with aluminum foil. and put something heavy on top, such asan iron.Lea\'e in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours. Toserve. discard the thyme. bay lea\·es. cloves. andthe top layer of bacon Invert the terrine onto a s.eM ng dish and remove theremainingslicesof bacon. Cut intoslices andser\·e cold, garnishedwith watercressor lettuce.

870

Hare terrine PJ.S-L--:RRINA JE _1:SR:

• 1 largebonelesssaddle of hare

or rabbit • 14ounoesleanboneless pork bladeshoulder

• 14 ounoesboneless breast

or Segofveal • 5 ouncesbacon

• 12ouncesleanbacon. suchas Canadianbaconor turby bacon.

tha'ltysliced • pinchof freshly gratednutmeg • pinchof dried tarragon • 5 tablespoonsbrandy • ls,p rigfreshthyme

• salt and pepper Se...,es& - :o

Preheatthe O\'en to 350°F. Cut the saddleoi hare. pork \"e:ll and bacon into strips about ¾ inch wide keeping each type of meat separate. line the baseand the stdesof a ternne moldwith tv.othirdsof the slicesofle.anbacon.Makelayers of\'eal. hare. and pork in the terrine. seasoningeach layer with salt pepper. nutmeg. and tarragon andseparating the layers wrthstripsof fatty bacon. When all the meat ha.sbeenusedup pour thebrandy over thetop cover with the remainingslicesof bacon and put the thyme on top. tf you have any bonesfrom the saddleof hare. you can add someof them for extra fla\'Or.CO\'er the terrinemold, placeit into a roasting pan. and pour in hot water to comeabout halfway up the sides Sake for 3 hours Remove the terrine from the roastingpan and let cool. Take off the lid,remove and discard thebones ifused. and the thyme. and CO \'er the ternne with aluminum foil. Placesomethinghe.avyon top. such asan iron. andle.avein therefrigerator for6-8 hours i hisdish is servedin the ternnemold after remoV'i ng the CO \'enngof bacon

Liverterrine

871

PJ.S-Et-t:RRIIA JE Hlw\,00OECEROO

• 12ouncesleanbaoon. well

ais

Canadian bacon. thinty sli~ • 1 pound2oonce$poft liver.

tri~

and finelychopped

• 1 pound2 ounces groundpo rk • pinch of mixeddried hfflls • 2 eggs. lighHybeat en • 4 tablespoonsbrandy • salt and pepper

Se"w 'ES.8 - :0

872

Prehe.at the oven to 325~f. lii e the bJ.se and sides of a terrine mold with two-thirdsof the bacon.Combine theli\•er. groundpork. anddned herbs in a bovdand seas.on with salt andpepper. Stir in the eggsand brandyandspoon themixh.re intothe ternnemold.pres.s ing do'Nnwell witha v1o oden spoon. Cover the top withthe remainingslicesof bacon andput the lid on the terrine. Put the terrine moldinto a roastingpan and pour in hotwater to comeabout halfway up the sides B.a k e for 3 hours thenremO\· e from the roastingpan, andLe t standin the refrig· erator for 48 hours before servi:ng. This dish is uswily served in the ternnemold.afterremovingthe topcoveringof bacon.

Veal loaf PJ.S-Et0~ -ERIIERA

• 2 cups,breadcrumbs • scant 1cup boiling ni lk

• 1 pound2 ounc~ boneless w .al shollder • 5 ouncesbonelessham hock • 1 ¼ cups finetychopped n-...shrooms

• 1 bonelessveal breast 1 poundlOoz

• 5 ouncesSerranohamor

prosciutto.ina singjepieoe • 3 tablespoonsoliw oi

• 1 onion. chopped • ¼ca lf s f oot cut into pieces

• 1 teaspoonmixeddried hfflls

or 1 bouquet gami(2 bayleawes. 1 sprigfresh thyme. l sprig fr.esh

parsley. and 1clovegaric tieet fortified wiie • 5 ouncesSerranohamor prosciutto.ad into thin strips

• salt and pepper Se,..~s!- 6

Toser\'e, run a knife aroundthe edgeof the loafpan and tum out onto a servingdish Garnish with watercressor lettuce. d you like, and serve.

874

0

Chickenandhamterrine -Eli:Ril'-li\ 0~ POLLO Y J.i'.MOII

• lchicbn. 2½ pounck, giblets reserved

• 4 t.ablespoM oi ve oil

• 1 smallonion.cut Wlto4 wedges • scant 1 o.ipfinely chopped

Serranohamor pros.ciotto • 3 ½ ounoesthinly slicedbacon

• 2 tablespoonsbrandy • 1 bayleaf

• 1 sprigfresh thyme

• salt and pepper Gelatin stock:

• 1 calf's foot.cut into pieces • 2 carrots.chopped • 1 leek.tmVl'ledand rinsedwel • 2 stalks celery • 1 bay leaf

• 5 tablespoonswtaitewine

• salt 5e...,-es&-:o

first. makethe stock. Pour13 cupswaterinto a panand addthe calfs foot carrot.leek celerybayleaf.andthe chickengiblets.Pour in the Yiine s.e.a.son Yiithsalt. and bring to a bod lower the heat to mediumandcook for 1¼ hours RemO\'fthe panfrom the heatand stra n theliquidinto a bowl.Discardthe contents of the strainer Let theliquidcoolcompletely andif a layerof fat formsontop. removert with a spoon.Cut thechickenin half lengthwise He.a t the otl in a pan Add the chickenandonion season with salt and cook. turning the chicken occa.s ,onally. for 20 minutes Remove the pan from the heat and let cool. RemO\'e the skin from the chicken cut the me.atinto very smallpieces. andmo:it with thehamin a bowt.Preheatthe oven to 350tF Line the baseof a terrine mold w,th the bacon, then make a layerof the chickenand ham mixture. and pour ll a little of the stock.Continue maktnglayersof chicken andham. followedby more stock. until the terrine mold is full Pour in the brandyand put the bay leaf Jnd thyme spng on top.Put thelid on the terrine place it in a roastingpan Jndpourin boii ngwaterto comeabouthalfwayup the sides.8akefor 1hour.Removetheterrine fromtheroastingpan.take off the lid. and let cool. If necess.a ry. add a little morestock. leave the ternne in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours until completely set Removeand discardthe bayle.atandthyme Turnthe terrine out onto a serving dish, and remo,·eand dis.cardthe bacon The terrine can besef\'edwith a salad.

875

Pork loaf PJ.S-LOECi'.BEZAJECE=:oo

• lonion • 6clo'lfS

• oliveoil.tOfdrizzling • 2 carrots.halvedlengthwise • lbay leaf • ls,ptigfreshthyme

· 1 smal ootmeg.halved • 9 ouncesle.anport • pig'sfetlears.and snout. 2¼ poundstotal~t • 5 tablespoonswhitewine

• salt and pepper Se...,es& - :o

PreheattheO\'ento350~i.Studtheonionwith thedovesandputintoa small. ovenproof baking dash.Orizzfewithoil andrwst for30 minutes. Remove fromthe oven and setaside.Cutthecarrotsinhalfwidth'Nise andtie the bayle.atandthyme sprigtogetherwrthfinekrtchenstring, thenput them intoa panw,th the onion.nutmegandpork Singethe pigs feet e.ar . and snout.if necessa ry. washthoroughly, and add to the pan.Seasonwiths.altand pepperand pour in the wineand just enough waterto cover the ingredientscompletelyBringtoa boil over highheat then lowerthe he.atco,·er. andsimmergently for 4 hours

-=Np~------~M finely.Lift out thefeet cut themeatoff thebones.and dicefinely Dice the snoutand cut the e.arsinto \'ery thin stripsw,th kitchenscissors Mix al the meatstogetherStrainthe stockinto a bo'III andpour a little into aloafpen,thenaddthemeatrruxture andcover it withmore stoc+:St,rwell with a forttso thatthe stoc+:penetratesand is evenly distributed.Le.a ve in the refngeratoruntil set.Tosen·e.runthe blade of a knifearoundthe edgeof the pan,turn the loafout ontoa ser\'ing dish. andgarrush v;ithwatercressor escarole if youlike t,.ote Pl,gs feetarewidelyavaaabte. but the snoutand e.arsareless commonly seenandmayhave to be orderedd youwant to makethe authent.c dish. However. as pig's feetare \'ery gelat,nous. youcould simplyuse2 ¼ pounds fe.et

876

Chickenliver mold GE.Kl\'J. 0~ HIGA0I·os0~ POLLO

• 1 smal onion

• 2cloves • olive oil. for drittling

• lca tf'sfoot • 2 vealknuckles • 1 smallleek.

ttirrmed andMsed well • 1 celerystalk

• 2 carrots.cut i'lto shaft Seng.ths

• 1/,cupsherry or other sweetfortified wine • 1 pound 2 oun~s chictenliwers. thawedif ftoren. trimmedand

ooarselychopped

• pe:pper

Se...,es.i-6

877

Preheatthe O\'en to 350~i . Stud the onion with the doves and put rt into a small. O\'enproof baking dish onzzle wit h oil and roas1for 30 minutes. Remove from theoven and setaside. Putthe calfs foot. \'ealknuckles.onion,leek. celery. andcarrotintoa largepan andpour in water to cover. Bring to a boil andskim off any froth that rises to thesurface. thenlower the heat.ands mmer gently for 2 ½-3 hours Strain the stock into a clean pan. dis.carding the contents of the strainer. Add the sherry and chicken li\'ers to the stock in the pan seas.o n to tastewith pepp:er. and cook for 10 minutes more. Stram a layer of stock about}~ inch deep into a mold or loaf pan. Chi l in the refrigerator or freezer unti l s.et Garnishwith thin slicesof carrot. makmg an attracti\'e pattern all around the edgeof the mold or ti n Us ng a slotted spoon, transfer the chickenli\·ers to the mold or tin. spreading them out e\'enly Pour in stock to cover andfill the mold (Somestoc+:wil be left O\'er andcan be usedfor another recipe as it is de5cious) Chil in the refngerator for 24 hours. untJI set Serve with a salad

'Foiegras· FO!E-G =AS !

• 1 pound2ouncespork livers. thawed if froren.trimmed

• 1 pound 2 oun~s lard • 4 t.ablespoMbrandy

• 1 egg.beat en

Se".-es.i-6

Put the livers andlard through a grinder togetherin batches. Stir in the brandy and egg. Spoon the mo:ture into a tart pan Yiith a solid bottom or quiche pan and smooth the surface Put the pan into a casserole and pour in hot water to comeabouthalfway up the sides Cring to a bod over mediUm·low heatand cookfor about 1hour. until the fat comes to the surface Remove the pan from the water and le.ave the foie gras to cool in it. then turn it out and cover with the lard that ha.soozedout. t-.ote Foiegras is normally madefrom gooseor duckh ers and this recipe is not a direct substitutewhen foie gras is required within

anotherdsh.

Thenobilit y of varietymeats Sweetb reads. liver. kidneys. andmore- vanety meatsare finefood After all, they often appear on the menus of our bestrestaurants. It isaII a matter of knowing how to get the bestout of them. The most im-portant thing when preparing variety meatsis freshness Atways buy your offalfrom a reliablesource Thebest cnteria for qualrty is

color-t he clearer the better.

Liver Howto cook Whate\·ersort of liver you arecooking. fromcalf's to chd: enl iver. the od should not be toohot.especially at thebegmrungof the process liv er can becooked inslices. askebabs. or roasted whole in thecase of calf'sli\'er and thencut into slicesandservedwith a sauce .

Tricks • Totendenze liver. soak rt in mtlk for l hour before cooking. (Oisc.a rd the milk and dry the livers before cooking.} This is part.cularly worthwhilewith coarse-textured liver suchasox liver • You might have to cut away,•isible ducts. \'eins or membranesfrom the liver before cooking • If lfVer is lightly dustedwith flour before trying. rt will brownbetter andthe oi v,·ill splatter less.

878 • 6 (x 4-ooooe)slioesot calf's

iver. trimmed • 1/,cup olive:ture wrth your fingertips lmmed1· ately coat the liver first in the bread crumbs then in the beaten egg, and, finally,in breada-umbsagain makmg sure that the bre.ad

· sunflower oil.fordeepfrying:

crumbsform anevencoatingHeatthe 011111a deep·f ryerordeep

· salt

skillet to350- 375' For until a cubeof day-oldbreadbrownsin30seconds Add the liver andcook for few minutes. untilgolden brown. Removewith a slottedspatula.dramwel. andsen·e immediatel y.

· 1 garlicclove • 1 sprigfresh parsley

• 6 thin slicesotcalf'sliver.

Se....~6

881

Liverwith mustardand bacon F t::TESJo:liiG•oo CONMOSTI.ZA y Bi1.CON

• 6 (x 4-ooooe) slioesot calf's

iver. trimmed · 1- 2 tablespoonsDijonm st• d • 1cup olive oil • 6th in slioesol bacon

• salt Ser,,-esC

882 • 6 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 largeonioM, cut Wlto wedges¾ inch wide

• 2 large green bel peppers. seededandcut into

1/.a.-i nch widestrips • 4 (x 4-ounce) slicesof calf s

iver. trimmed

• salt

883

Season onesideofeachsliceof li\'erwiths.alt and spreadthemustard generously on the other side Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the bacon andcookovermedium-high heatfor 2- 4 minuteson eachside. unti l browned.Remo ve fromtheskillet andkeep warm Dramoff nearly all the oil fromthe pan. lea\'ing just enough to cover the base. Working in batches. add the liver. and cooko,•er mediUm·highhe.atfor about 2 minutes on e.achside. t11t,I just firm. Put the sli cesoi liver into a warm s.e rving dish. mustard side up. and top with the bacon Sef\'e immediately.

Liverwith onionsand bell peppers Ft::nsr.:liiG•oo ccNc:sotos P1"'1rn·os He.at theoil in a ~ill et. Add theonion and cookO\'er low heat stirring occas1onally. for about 8 minutes. until beginning to brown Remove from the skillet and keepwarm Add the bell pepper to the skillet cover. and cook overlowheatfor 12-15 minutes. until softened. Re· move the bell peppersfrom thepanand keep v,arm.Season the liver withs.alt Add to theskilletand cook over medium·highheatforabout 2 minutes on each s de. until just firm. Transfer to a warm ser\'ing dish. Returnthe onion andthe bellpepper bat+:to theskillet and heat through. Seasonthem to taste ,,.;th salt arrange them around the liver. and serve.

Liverwith onionsandwhite wine ESC._OPIN::s 0£ Ii G.~Xlco~ CESOLU \' HOB~AHCO

• 1cup olive oil • 1 pound 10 ounoescatf's liver.

wry t hinly sliced. trimmed • 1hcupall-purposeflour

• 8 ouncesonions.

veryfinelymopp ed

Reserve 4 tablespoonsof the oil and heatthe remainder in a skillet Season the liver with salt and dust with the flour. shaking off the excess.Addto the pan, in batches. andcook over mediUm-high heat for about 2 minutes on each side. until just firm. RemO\'e from the skiUet and set aside. Heatthe resef\'ed oil in another skillet. AddChe

onionandcook(1{ er lowheat.stun11 goccasmnally.for6 minutes.

• ¾cup white w;ne

unt,I softened and translucent then add the wine and cook for

• pinch of dried tarragon

5 m.nutes more. Add the liver and the tarragon to the skillet and simmergently for 5 minutes. Serve immediately

• salt Ser•,-esC

cover.

884

Braisedcalf's liver lilGAOOOE..£RIERAE U11i POZO\GUSf\00

• 4 Ol.l'loes bacon.

cut intothWIstrips • 2 pounckcalf'sIii/fr in

Us ng a larding needle. thre.adsomeof the baconthroughthe liver and put the remainde r on top, then t1ewrth fine kitchen stnng like

a roast Heatthe od in a pan.Add theonionandcookover low heat.

• 1 onion.chopped

stirnngocc.asonally. for about 5 minutes. until softenedandtranslu· cent Addthe liverand cook. turningfrequently. until evenly browned all CYY er. Season Yiith salt and spnnkle v;ith the dried herbs or add

• pindl of mixed drikf herbs

the bouquet garn,. Pour ll the wine and }~cup water. CO\'er the

a singiepiece. trimmed

• 4 t.ablespoM olive oil

or l bouc,ietgami (l bay leat. 1 sprigfresh thyme.and1 sprig

freshtarragontied together in cheesecloth) • generouslcupwflitewine

• salt 5e...,-es6

pan and cook O\'er medium heat turrung theliver occas1onally. for 25-35 minutes. t11tiltheliver is firm lif t out theiv er from thepan. remove and dis.car d the stringand thebaconfromthe top sficethe me.atandput thes6ceson a warmservingdish.Remo \'e anddlscard the bouquetgarni. if used, pour the sauceinto a food processor or blender. and process. . or passthrough a foodmill. Pour the sauce over theliveror s.e r\'e separately in a sauce boat. t-.ote The li\·er can be ser\·ed with macaron, tos.s.ed in butter and gratedchees.e . Mashed Potato(seerecipe230). or any kind ofgreen \'egetablesuchasSrus.s.els sprouts. pea.s . or green beans. .

Liverwith onion.tomato. andcream

885

F t::TESJ: liiG•oo CCNC£80ll,6,, TOUAE 11~.·A • generous1cup oliveoil • 6 (x 4-ooooe)slioesot calf's

iver. trimmed -ih cupal l-purposeflour • l largeonion.sliced.in rings • 4 tomatoes.

peeled. seeded.andchopped · ¼ teaspoonmeatextract

or Mafi:i Seasoning • 1 tablespoonchopped

fresh parsley • 3 tablespoons~t

cream

• salt Ser•, -esC

He.atthe oil in a largeskillet.Seasonthe li\'er withsalt anddust with the flour. shakingoff anyexcess.Add to the skillet in batchesri necessary. andcookfor about2 minutesoneachside.untiljust firm. Removefromtheskillet andkeepwarm Addtheonion to the panand cook overlow heat stirring occasiona Uy for about5 minutes. until softenedand translucent.Addthe tomatoand cook stirring occa· sionallyandbre.akmg it upwrththe sideoi the spoon, for 15minutes Sbr in the meat extract or MaggiSeasoningreturnthe liver to the skiUet cover. and cook for 3 minutes Turnthe liver and cook for 3 minutesmore Transfe r thelivertoa warmservingdish.Spnnklethe parsleyinto theskilfet remO\'eit fromthe heat.andstir in the cream Seasonto tastewithsaltand pour the s...."'Uce over the liver Servewith MashedPotato(see recipe230). macaronitossedwrthbutter and gratedcheeseor trianglesoi fried bread(seerecipe130)

Calf'sliver and baconbrochettes(first version)

886

PINC•IOSOE-IIGA.00 OETE~NER:overlowheat stirring occas1onally. forabout 10minutes. until beginningto bro'Nn.Slicethe sv,·eetbreads and coat in theflour. but do not shakeoff any excess. asit wil serve to thickenthesauce Addto the pan andcook turning occas1onally. forabout 10minutes. until e\'enly browned. Pourin the wineands1mmerovertowheat shakingthepanoccasionally. forabout 15 mmutes. Stir in the mushroomsand therr cookmg j UJ ces and seas.on to taste wrth salt. Remove the pan from the heat Put the creamor eggyolks into a bowl and stir in a little of the sauce. then pour thismixture into thepan.Stir v,·ell andpour thecontents of Che pan into a warmservingdish_Ser\·e with lrttle mounds of boiledrice

Sweetbreadscookedin sherry MO~LUi\S GUSi\Oi\SAl J:REZ

• 21/:poundssweetbfeads

• 4 tablespoonsoliveoil • 1onion.chopped

· 2 carrots.siced

• 1targeripe tomato. seededand cut into 4 wedges

· 1heaping tablespoon all-purposeflour

• pinchof mixeddried herbs or 1 bouquetg.v ni (2 bay lea\'e$,1spog fresh

thyme.and1sprig freshp.a,sl'ey tied togttfler in chHSecloth) • 5 tablespoonssherry • 1cup chicten stock

(homemade.rdMedor made with a bouilon cube)

• salt and pepper

Set•,es6

Prepare and blanch the sweetbreadsasdescribed on page779 and slice lieat the od in a pan. Add the onion and cookover low heat. stirnngoccasionally for about 5 minutes until softened andtranslu· cent Addthecarrotand cook,stirringoccasionally.tor a fewminutes more. then add thetomatoand flour. Add thesweetbreadsand cook. turning carefully. tor about 10 minutes, until evenly brov,·ned all o,•er. Seas on with salt and pepper. add the dried herbs or bouquet gami andpour in thesherry. folloY4 ed by thestock Bring to a boil. thenlo'Ner theheat cover andsimmer. stirring occaStonally, for 30 mmutes. Using a slottedspoonor spatula, transfer thesweetbre.ads to a warmserving dish. Remo ,·e and discard the bouquet garni. ri used. andpassthe sauce througha food mill or processin a food processor or blender. Pour the sauce over the sv,·eetbreads and serve immediately with the fned bread (seerecipe 130) around the dish, if you like.

907

Sweetbreads flamed in brandyandserved with peas M0LLEJ~.s :uuE.OASC0N C0l}t;Cy SP . Q,'.SC0HGUISAlrES

• 2¼ poundss~etbfeads •generous¼ cup lard or sunfloweroil

• 5 tablespoonsbrandy

• 1 tablespoonchopped fresh parsley

• 15 ounc~ cannedpeasOf 4 V:pc)I.WldS fresh peas.shelW

• 1.4cup (½ cup) butter • salt and pepper

se,.,,-es6

908

Prepare and blanchthe sweetbreads asdescribedon page7i9 . and shce Meltthelardor he.atthe oilin askillet.Addthesweetbread sand cook,turningocca.s 1onally,forabout!Ommutesuntili ghtlyb rowned all over Se.a.son withsalt andpepp:erlieat the brandyin a smallpan. ,gnrteit.andcarefullypourit intotheskiUet . spooningit overthesweet· bre.ads. Whenthe flameshavedieddov;n sprinkle in the parsleyand cook overmedium heat for 15minutes Meanwhile. op:enthe canof p:eas.if usu,,g,andstandit ma panof hot watersetovermediumheat Coo>: the freshp:eas.if using,in a panof saltedboilingwaterforabout 20 minutes untiltender.Drainthe pea.s.put themintoa pan. addthe butter. andcook O\·erlow heat stirring occasionallyfor 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Put the sweetbreadson a warm serving dish, poor the sauceo,•erthem. and put Chepeasaround the edge. Serve immediately

Sweetbreads with spinach MO~LEJ~.s cor,;ES:1ltt;Ci\S

• 2¼ poundss~etbfeads • 6 ¼ poundsspinach.

ooarsestalksremoved • 2 tablespoons(I/,stick) butt« • ¼ cup al -purposeflour • lcupmii k • 1½ cupssooflower oil

• salt

se,.,,-es6

Prepareand blanchthe sweetbreads asdes.Cfibed on page779 and shce. Cookthe spmachas describedon page 315.Oramwell and chop finelyor put it througha grinder or food process.or. He.atthe butter in a pan. Stir in I tablespoonof the flour and cook.stirring constantfy. for 2 minutes.Gradually stir in the milk. a httfeat a time Cook stirnngconstantly. for about5 minutes. until thickened.then stir in the spinach. and seasonto taste with salt Remo\·ethe pan from thehe.atand keepwarm.Heat the oil in a skillet.Coatthesweet· bre.adsin the remainingflour. shakingoff anyexcess. Add them to the pan and cook. turrung occasionally . for about10 minutes.until golden brown Removev;ith a slotted spa1ulaand dramwell Spoon the spinach sauceonto a warmserving dtsh. place the sweetbreads on top. andserveimmediately.

909

Breadedsweetbreads with tomato sauce M0LLUAS:M"AHA0ASCONSALS,r. OE•oMAH

• 2½ pouncksweetbceack • 2 eggs • 1 tablespoonoliveoil • 11/: cups,btead crumbs • 1cup sunfloweroil • 2 sprigsfreshparsley

• lquantityCl~sicTomatoSauce (see recipe73)

• salt Ser,,esC

910

Prepa re Jndblanchthe sweetbrea ds asdescribedonpage779 and slice Beatthe eggswith the olive oil and a pinchof salt in a shallow dish. Pour the bread crumbs into another shallow dish Coat the sweetbreads first ll the egg mLX ture and then in the bre.adcrumbs. pressing the crumbs on with your fingertips Heatthe sunflower oil in a skillet over low he.at Add the parsley spngs and cook for a few minutes. then remo\'e with a slotted spoon. andset as de Increase the heat until the oi is hot enough to brown a cube of day-old bread in 30 secondsAdd the sweetbreads and cook unti l golden brown Remove with a slotted spatula and drain well Put the sweetbreads on a warm serving dishand garmsh with the parsley. Serveimmed1· ately. offeringthe tomato sauceseparately.

Vol-au-vent with sweet breads. mushrooms. andtruffles 1 JOL•W,E'liTOEMOLEJ.t.S. C•O,MFl~OMS ·-Ru•.r.s

• 1 pound2 ouncessweetbreasup erfinesugar • scantl o.ip blanched almonds. chopped

• 1 tablespoonQsch • 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butt er

• 2¾ cups,al -purposeflour. plus extra for dusting

• 4 cups sunfloweroil Ma,esabot.ASO

948

Put the eggs. sugar. almonds, and kirsch into a bowl and st,r with a wooden spoon for 15 minutes Melt the butter andstir it into the m.1 xture Finally. gently stir in the flour. sbrring as little as possible Wrth floured hands shape the mixt ure into littl e rolls. l ¼-1 ½ incheslong and about ¾ inch wide. Heat the od in a deeps.~ 1llet to 300-3 25°F or until a cube of day-old bre.ad browns in 45 seconds Remove the pan from the heatand add the first batchof doughnuts When they have puffed up. return the pan to the heat and cook until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and dram well. Repeat with the remaining batter. Once cooled these doughnuts can be storedfor 2-3 daysin an airtight container_

Little almondcakes PCLV0RCIESOEA.M:IIDR/. (U/.'-o TEO.0OS)

• 2¾ cups,al -purpose flour • generous1¾ cups,lard · 11/: cups,superfw'le sugar • scant l cupgrol.l'ld toasted almonds

• pinchof grOl.l'ldcinnamon

• 1 egg.ligflHybeaten • oontectionef s sugar, tor dus6ng

• salt Ma,esabot.ASO

Preheatthe oven to 300~f. Heattheflour in a skillet stirringconstan· Uy for 7 m.nutes but do not let rt bro'Nn. Pour the flour onto a work surface. preferably a marbleslab. andspread it out into a round Put the lard, sugar. almonds ciMamon. a pinch of salt. and the egg in the middle and mix the ingredients with your hands until thoroug· hfy combined.Shapepieces of the dough into balls Jbout the s.ze of a walnut. then flatten them Working in batchesif necessary. place the littl e cakes on a baking sheet and bake for about 30 minutes Remove from the O\'enandleave on thebakingsheetto cool comple· tely then dust with confectioner's sugar Store them in an airt.ght container or wrapindi\'iduaUy in t,ssue paper.

949

Fried bows LAlOSFRTOS

• 2¼cupsself -ris.ingRour . plus extra for dusting

• 2 eggs,1-stittybeaten • 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter

• 2 tablespoons superfinesu.g;ar • 1 tablespooneau-devie or other fruit btandy • 4 cupssunflowf'roil

• oontectioner's sugar. for dusU'lg

• salt

Sift the flour with a pinchof salt into a bowl and add the eggs. butter. sugar. and eau·de·vie. Mix v,·ell with your hands. then tum out onto a lightly floured v,·ork surfacepreferably a marble slab. and knead the mixture un1i1 smooth. Rollout the dough on a lightly floured surfaceandcut 1t into strips about¾ inchwide and 10incheslong Carefullyt,e the dough strips into bows. He.atthe oil in a deep-fryer or skillet to 350- 3i5 °F or until a cube of day-old bread browns in 30s.econ ds. Addthebows. fourat a time.and cook until golden brown Removewith a slottedspoonand drJinwell. Repeatwith the remain· ingbatter Servesprinkledwith plenty of confect,oner s sugar

Ma•esa,ool25

950

Fried Marie cookies G.!.tL::-.t.s cM.!.!i.i.t. , ,:-Ri-.!.S

• 4 Mariecooloesor tea biscuits pe:rserving • raspbenyor redcurrantjam~

about 1/2teaspoonper bis.cuit saoc:tMch

• sunfloweroil fordeep frying: • oonfectioner'ssugar. for coating

Se".-es:

Sandwich the cookiestogether in pairs with the jam He.at the oil in a largeskillet to 300-325°i or unti a cubeof day-old breadbrowns in 45 secondsWhen i1is hot (but not too hot asthesecookies will burn easily). fry them quickly, about 10-12s.eco nds. Remo\'e from the pan w,th a slotted spatula. drain. coat them in sugar. and s.er\'e immediately

951

Chouxpuffs PETITS-CHOUX

Oloux pastry:

• 2 cups,all.purpos e flour • l c14>milk • ¼ cup (1/: stick) butter -ih cuplard · ¼ teaspoonsugar

or 1sugarklfl11 • sunfloweroil.for brushing • 2 eggwfli es

• salt 0:Jstard r. ing:

• 3 eggyolks • 2 tablespoonsall-purpose flour • 3 cups,milk

• 1/,cupsuperfinesugar • tha'ltyparKIzestoft lemon

· legg:wfli e Carameltopping: • 3 tablespoonssugar

Ma,.esurul 3Jlar£ec 001.,: p.Jffs rr 70s"lalc001.xp1."s

Sift the flour onto a sheetof waxedpaper.Put the milk. butter.lard. sugar.and a pinch of salt into a pan and heat gently stirnng with a woodenspoon.Whenthe mixture comesto a bod pour in the flour all at once, andstir rapidly for about3 minutes.RemO\'fthe pan from the heat andlet cool.Meanwhile.makethe custardfilhng 8eat the eggyolkswith the flour and 2 tablespoo ns of the mak in a bowl.then set as.dePut theremainingmilk. the sugarandlemon zestin a pan over mediumheat and bring to a boil. Stir a ladleful of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture.then pour the mixture into the pan. and cook. stirring constantly. for 3-5 minutesmore. until thickened Remove the pan from the heat. strain the cus1ard througha coarsestrainer into a bowl.andlet cool then chill in the refrigerator.Preheatthe O\'ento 400°i. Brush2 bakingsheetswith od Addthe eggs. one at a time to the coo!edchouxpaste making sureeachis fully incorporatedbeforeaddingthe next.finally. stir in the eggwhites (not v,hisked).Usinga teaspoon. put smallmounds of the mi>:ture.spacedwel apart. onto the preparedbakingsheets workingin batchesif necessary.Alternatively.spoon the mixture into a pastrybag fitted witha plaintip andpipe small balls onto the bakingsheets spacingthem well apart. Bakefor 10 minutes then towerthe O\'entemperatureto 350°F.andbakefor 10minutesmore for small chow:puffs or 20-25 minutesmorefor largerchouxpuffs. until they ae goldenbrown.Remo\'efrom the o,·en Us,ngkitchen scissors makea slit about l ¼ incheslongin the side of eachpuff. then pressgen1Iy to open,t slightlyand let the steamescape(Make the slit about halfwayup the puff so that the custard doesnot leak out whenit is filled). Set asideto cool Tofinishthe custardfilhng whiskthe eggv,hltein a grease-treebowluntil soft peaksform. then gently fold i1 into the custard Usea teaspoonto fill the puffswith the custardfilling.Tomakethe carameltopp.ng put the sugar into a panwith1tablespoonwaterand heatgently.stirnnguntil the sugar hasdissotved.Continueto heat v,·ithoutstirnnguntil the caramelis golden.Removethe panfromthe heatandquietlydip the topof e.ach chouxpuff into the mixture. then removeimmediately. Holdthechoux

puffscarefuffytoavoid burn;

952

Roulade S~AlOOEGWiO

• butter. fo,greasa'lg • 4 t.ablespoM a1-p,upose flour

• 2 tablespoonspotatost.ardl • 1 teaspoonbakilg powder • pinchof vanillapowderOf

a fewdropsohani l a extract • 3 eggs.separated

• leggtr,?S

958

Sablepast ry for tarts MAS.iiS!,8.£ "A~A.TA.!iJAS

• ½ cup (1stick) butter. softened, plus extra for gre~ing

• legg • 3 tablespoons superfinesugar · 2Y,cups al i)urpose flour. plus extra for cl:Jsting

....,

• gratedzest of V:lemon

Ma,esl La•t.tOi'lCnes

959

Preheattheovento 350~F. GreaseJ.08·inchtart panw,th butter. Seat the egg v;ith the sugarand a pinch of salt in a bowluntil the sugar and salt have dissolvedcompletely Sdt the floor intoa moundon a work surface sprinkle over the gratedlemon zestandmakea well in the center Pourthe egg mixture into the well anddot the flour with the butter. Work the ingredients with your fingertipsuntil combined but still gramy Roll out the dough on a lightly flouredsurface then transfer to the preparedpan,andtnm theedge. Prick the basew,th a fork andbakeuntil just dry orgoldenbrown.dependingon the reape

Almondpastry MAS.ii0£ W-'Er-.:O~AS "A.RI,TA.R-1,S

• 3 tablespooM superfinesuga.t

Sift the flourwrtha pmch of saltintoa bowl Addthebutter andrub in with your fingerbps.laghtlyworkin thesugar.egg nulk. andalmonds until combined.Shapethe dough into a ball cover with a clean dishtowe l. and let rest for 1hour.Preheatthe O\'ento 35ot; _Grease a 10-inch tart pan with butter and sprinkle viith the bread crumbs.

· lmediumegg.ighttybeaten

shak111g outtheexcess.Rolloutthedoughooa hghtlyflouredsurface.

• 2 tablespoonsmil:

transfer to the prepared pan, tnm the edge. andpridt the ba.s e with

• ½ cupgroundalmonds

a fork. B.akeblind for 25- 30 minutes.

• 1¾cups all-purpose flour,

plus extra for ellsting

• sc-ant1/: cupbutter.cut into piec~ pl~ extra fOJgreasing

• 3-4 tablespoonsfwle bread e,1.£."JZ~.IU..S F~~~-ACOV P!,r; ~R l.f, O ~N:

• 4 ½ poundsapples.

peeled. COfed.and slioed

Set•,es6

974

Prepare andcook the applesasdescribedin recipe972. omittingthe cinnamonand sugar.Letcool thenpass.throughJ foodmil or pulse in a foodprocess.o r

Apple pureewith orangejuice PU~: OEMAIIZMi~.S CONZUMO OEN!,R.£.•,m

• 4 ½ poundsapples.

peeled. OOJed. and tti ctly sic ed • thinly paredstf1) of orangezest

• 6 tablespooMorangejuice • 6 tablespoonssuperfinesugar

• 2 tablespoonsrum(optional) Set'i@S6

Put the apples.into a panwith 3 tablespoons. waterandthe orange zest Cover andcookover lowheattor about20 minutes until soft thenadd theorangejuice. andremo,·e anddiscard theorangezest Increasethe heat to medium and cook for about 8 minutes. . until thejmcehas.beenabs.o rbed Remove thepenfromthe he.atand stir in the sugar.mixingwell viith a woodenspoon.Put theapple puree intoa glassbowlandlet cool. Stir in therum. ifusmg. and serve with l angues.de Chat(seereape943) or othercookies

'

975

Apple moussewith custard MOLlSS~0~ MAl-ll;!; .f\ASCO\' r,.q_t!,,S

• Sapples,about 2 ½ pounds,

peeled. OOJed and chopped

• 6 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • 2 tablespoonsrum • 4 eggwtlites

• salt

Caramel: • 3 tablespoonssuperfine

sugar 0:Jstard: • 3cupsmil k

• 6 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • 3eggyolks

• 1tablespoon comst.arch • pi'lch of vanilla powderor

a fewdrops ofvalllla extract

Put the app!esinto a pan sprinklewith the sugar and 2 tab!espoon.s water. andcookover low heatfor about20 minutes. unbl softened Oram well then put the apples on a clean dishtowel or square of cheese cloth, gather up the comers. and hang O\'er a bowt for about 10minutesto draincompletely. Make the caramel.Put thesugar into a pan. add 2 tablespoonswater. and stir to dissolve. then cookover low heatunbl golden Pour the caramelinto a cake pan and pour it bact and forth until the tin is completely coated. Makethe cus1ard as described in recipe1008. let cool. then ch.ii in the retngerator Preheatthe O\·en to 350~F. Transfer the strained apples to a bowl and stir in the rum. Whisk the egg whiteswith a pinch of salt in a clean, dry bowtuntil sbff peaksform. then gently fold into the apple mixture Pour the mixture into the preparedpan Piare in a roasting pan, pour in boilingwaler to reach about halfway up the s,desof the pan and bake for 1 hour. Remove the mousse from the oven and let cool in the pan Justbeforeser\'ing. turn out onto a serving dish and pour someof the custard O\·er it Sen·e. offering the remaming custard separa1ely

Ser,,-es6

976

Apple fr itters 8.Lil)JE.OSO: M.!.IIZ,.f-1 ~-

• 4 apples

• juice of½ lemon

• 3 tablespoonssuperfinesugar, plus extrafor coating • 4 tablespoonsrum

• 4 cups,sunfloweroil

Peelthe apples. corewit h anapple corer or sharp knife. andcut into slires about ;'4inch thick Tossthem in the lemon iuice to pre\'ent disoolora1ioo. Combinethe sugar. rum. and 11/2tablespoonswater in a shallow dish, add the slicesof apple andlet macera1e. stirring occas1onally. for 30 minutes. Meanwhile. make the batter. Srft the

• 3 tabl@$poons wlite wine

flour with a pinch of satt into a bowt.makea v,·ell in the center. pour in the wine andod. and add the sugar. Mo:well, then stir in the milk Covff and let rest for 30 minutes Heat the oil in a deep•fryer or deepskillet to 350- 375~F or un1ila cubeof day-old breadbrownsin 30 seconds. Drain the slicesof apple and pat dry Stir the baking

• 3 tablespoons soofloweroi l

powder mto thebatter.Oip thesl~e; ofappleintothebatteroneat

• 1tablespoon superfinesugar

a time add to the hot oi . in batches and cook until golden brown

• 11.4cupsmilk

Removewith a slotted spoonanddram weD. then coatthe fritters in sugar whde they are still hot Put the fntters on a servingdish and keepwarm asyou cookthe remaining fritters. Sef\•e immediately

Batter: • 2¼cupsal'l-purpose flour

• ½ teaspoonbakingpowder • salt

977

Quick-and-economicalfr ied apple puree F!iros OEPU~£CEIJ~.112.£."J/. E4~.i1.-os YRA' DOS

• 5 tablespoonsall-purposeflour • 6 large apples, about

2½ pounds,Pff ledandgrabkf • 6 tablespoons superfine sugar, plus extra fOJooating • 4 cupssunfkv,w,roil

Sift the flour intoa bowl.addthe app?esand sugar. and mi>:v,·ell. He.at the od in a deep-fryer or deep skillet to 350-375' f or untJI a cube of day-old breadbrowns in 30 seconds. Drop spoonfuls of the apple mixture into thehot oil and cook until golden.Removewrth a slotted spoon.oneat a time coatin sugar.andplaceona warmservingdish. Keep warm until all the pureehasbeenfned Serve immediately.

Se".-es6

978 • 2 tablespoons (¼ sti ct) butter

• 5-6 t.ablespoM sunfloweroil

• 3 apples, Pff led. cored. and sic ed • 6eggs • 5 tablespoonssuperfinesu.g;ar

• 5 tablespoonsbrandyor rum

• salt 5e...,-es>6

Flamed apple omelet -on .t/.OE1J~.lll.t.'•lJSH.t.VE.t.0~ Melt thebutterwith 3 tablespoons of theod ina skillet Addtheapples and cook. st,rringoccasional ly,until goldenbrown.Put enough of the remaining od into another skillet to CO \'er the ba.se, andheatrt Seat the eggswith a pinch of s.altin a bowl then pour them into the pan Cook until the omelet is beginning to set then spoon the apples in a s.emic ircle on one half and sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the sugar on top Foldthe unCO \'eredhalf of the omeletoverthe apples. Sli dethe omelet onto a warm servi:ng dish and spnnkle with the remaining sugar Heatthe brandy or rum in a small pan i,gn.te it andcarefully pour rt over the omelet. Serve while it is stil burning, spooning the rum or brandy over the omelet so that it iswell flamed.

979

Tarte tatin -1,,!iJA.CE ~~.IIZ.t."1/. C!,l EN-EYH~CH.t. Al q[\'ES r,t,T!N)

• 1'.4cupull-purposeflour. plus extrafor dusting · ¼ teaspoonsalt

· 7tablespooM OOtter. softenedandcut into pieces

• 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil • 2 teaspoonssuperfinesugar

• wtaipped orpouringcream.

to serve Caramel: • ¼ cup superfinesugar

• 1 te~poon lemonjuice

Apples:

• 1 pound2 ouncesapples • 2 tablespoonssuperfiiesugar · 11/:tablespoonsbuttu Ser,,esC

first. make the pastry dough. Sitt together the ftour and salt onto a 'A'Orksurface and put the p,ecesof butter on top. Pour on the oil and sprinkle v;ith the sugar Gently combme with your fingertips.. graduaUyaddingabout 5 tablespoons warmwater. a litt 1e at a time until a smooth dough forms Shapethe dough into a ball. coverwith aluminum foi. andlet rest in the refn,ge rator. Make thecaramel Put the sugar into a pan add 3 tablespoo ns water. and stir to dissolve. then cook over low heat until golden. Stir in the lemon juice. then pour the caramel into a tarte tJtm pan or tart pan with a remove· able ba.se. and tip it backand forth un1i1the tin is completely coated. l et cool Peel, core. andslice theapplesthickly. Arrangethemin the prepared pan, beJnng in mind that the first layer of apples will be on top when the tart is turned out so they should be placedattrac· tively. Sprinkle the appleswith the sugar and dot with the butter Preheattheovento425~F. Kneadthedough. pressingit out with your handson a lightly floured surface. Fold it into four. then roll it into a round with a rollingpin_Lift the dough on the romng pin andplace rt o,·er the apples Tuckrt in around the edge. Bakethe tart for about 45 minutes until goldenbrown. Removeit from the ovenand imme· diately turn out onto a warm serving dish. (H the caramells allowed to cool, it is difficult to turn out the tart prop:erty).i hisupside-down appletart is served hot Withwhipped or pouringere.am .

980

Appletart with baked custardtopping ft1,f\ .fi1.R-/.0~ MAI-IZ,.f-1~.S

• 1 pound10 ouncesapples,

peeled.co.-ed.and chopped

• 1/•cup superfwlesugar •6eggs

• scant2 cupsmilk • 2 tablespoonsbrandy • pinchof vanil a powderor a few &ops of vanilla extrad

• gratedzestof½ lemon • 3 day-old sugareddoughnuts or sWHt boos.thinty sliced

• 3 cups wtl.ipped eteamand candiedfruit , to decorate

(optional)

Se"WS.6-8

Put the applesintoa pan,Jdd2 tablespoons waterand2 tab!epoons of thesugar. andcook.stirringoccasionally . for about20 minutes. until softened.DrainweD.then put the appleson a cleandishtov, ·el or squareof cheesec loth. gather up the corners. and hangover a bowl for about 10 mmutesto drain completely Me.anwhileput 2 tablespoonsof the remairung sugar into a pan,add 2 tablespoons water.and stir to dissol\'e, then cookaverlow heatuntilgolden Pour the caramel into a tart pan and pour it badt and forth until the tin is completelycoated.Preheat the O\'ento 325tf. B-eatthe eggswith the remainingsugarin a bowl.then mix in the milk, brandy. vanilla. and lemon zest Arrangea layerof shceddoughnutor bun over the baseof the coatedtart pan and co\·erv;ith a layer of apple puree. Continuemakingalternatelayersuntil both ingredientsareusedup. Pourtheeggmixtureon top. but donot fill thepancompletelysothat thereis roomfor the fillingto rise.Putthe panintoa roastingpanand pourin hot waterto comeabouthalfwayup thesides.Bakefor about 45 minutes.until set. Remo\'efrom the O\'enand let cool before turningout ontoa servingdish Thetart canbe coveredwrthvihipp:ed creamanddecoratedwithcand ed fruit ifyoulike t-.ote. Th~s tart is deUciousmadewith 11ouncescherri es. Pit them beforecooking themin the s.amewayasthe apples.

981

Apple charlotte PCS-REDECOt.1PO-.fi CEIJ~.IIZ.£."J!,,S CCI-Isot::·u1,,s yN.r.t.

• 15-161actyfilgers

• 6 tablespoomsupe1fi1e suga.r • 3 Y,poundsapples

· 1cup heavy cream. stiffly whipped

Set•,-es6

Trimoneend of the ladyfingers so that they will standupngM.Puthatf the sugar into a pan add 2 tablespoons water. and stir to dissolve. then cook over low he.at until golden brov;n Oneat a time. dip the cut ends of the ladyfingers into the caramel to a depth of about ¾ inch. Place the ladyfingers upngh1with the cut ends down.side by side. around a charlottemold or round dish Letcool.Peel core. and dice the apples. Put the app!es into a pan with the remaining sugar and ¼ cup water. Cook over low heat for about 20 minutes. until softened. Drainwell. then put the apples on a dean dishtowel or square of cheeseclothgather up the corners. and hangover a bowl for about 10 minutesto drain completely. Put the puree into a bow1and chill in the refrigerator. Tosef\•e. pour the pureeinto the center of theringof ladyfingers. cover vi ith the ere.am . and serve t,.ote. Donot put the pureeintothe dish too farin advanceof servi:ng asrt will soften theladyfingers andthey willfall over.If youlike. youcan sv,·eeten the cream with sugar before adding it to the charfotte You could evenfold in a whiskedeggwhite Thecreamcan be decorated with chopped. caramel-coated almondsor wit h spun caramel. made from caramelbeatenwith a forkjust asit is begiM ing to bro'Nn.

982

Pears with creamandchocolate P.:R/.SCON h_r.t.. YCHOCOLA.E

• 6 largepears

Peelandhalvethe pearsand rut outChe coreswith a sharp knife. Put

• scant 1/,rup superfinesugar

them in a panin a sin,gt e layer and !Pfinklewith 6 tablespoons of the sugarAdd the cinnamonand pour in just enoughwater to cover the trw t Cook O\'er medium heat for about 20 minutes. until softened andtranslucent butnot fallingapart lift out thepears with a slotted spoon draf'lw ell and hetcool ina drsh. Oi\'idethe creamamongsix glassesor sundaedishesand puttwo p e;shalves cutsidesdo·m. on tcp. Chit in the refrigerator untilready to s.erve. Pour l ½cups water intoa pan,addtheremainingsugar and thechocolate.andheatgently untJ the chocolatehasmelted and thesauce hasthict.enedslrgh11 y. Add the butter andstir until it ls fully incorporated. then remo\'e the pan fromthe heat.and let the saucecool slightly.Pour the sauceover the pears andser\'e immediately

• 1 smallca"lnamon stick

• lcuphe.avy«eam. stiffly W'h.ipped

• 6 ouncessemis~et chocolate. brokenWIto pieces • 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter

Se....~6

983

Tipsycherries SORR.t.CHOS CO\JCEREU..S

Dough:

h ouncefreshyeast

•1

• 1.4cup lukewarmmilk • 11/: cups,al -purpose flour. plus extra f« d~ting

• 6 tablespoons(¾ stick) butter. plus extra fo,greasing • 3 tablespoonsoonfectioner's

suga, • 2 eggs

• salt

DeooraHon: • 3 tablespoons peachjam

· 1'.4 poundsblackcherries. pitted

• 2 tablespoonsconfectioner's

suga,

• 1 tablespoonpotato statch • scant½ cup Qsch

S)Tup: · 11/: cups,superfw'le sugar • scant½ cup Qsch

Se",-es! -6

Cream the yeastin a bowlwith the lukewarmmilk. mashingit well with a fork. Sift the flour into a bowl makea weDin the center. and pourin the yeastmixture.Mixwell,cover with a cleandishtowel.and let ns.ein a warmplaceuntil cracksbeginto app:earon the surface Melt the butter in a pan andbeatin the sugar.a pinchof salt and the eggs Add the mixture to the doughand knead\'igorously Let rise for 15minutesmore. Greaseindividualring molds with butter and dust them with ftour Oi\'idethe doughamongthe prepared molds. only half rilling them.Let stand for about 15minutes. until the doughhasrisen to the top of the molds.Meanwtulepreheat the o,·ento 425°F.Put themoldsin theovenandbakefor 15-20 minutes. until goldenbrown.Removefromthe O\'enand tum out onto a wire rack to cool Meanwtule makethe syrup. Pour2 ¼ cupswater into a pan add the sugar. and stir to dissotve. then cook over low heat for about 6 nunutes.Removefrom the he.Jtandlet coot.then stir in the kirsch. andpour overthe cakenngs Make the decoration. He.Jt the jam in a pan and pour it O\'erthe cake nngs. Put the cherries and confect,oner s sugarinto a pan and pour in scant 1 cup water_ Coverandcookfor 4nunutes. Me.anwhil e. mix the potatostarchwith 2 tablespoons waterin a bowl addto the cherries. andcook st,rring constantly.for a fewminutes. until the juice hasthickened Put the cake ringsontoindi\'idualplatesanddiv,dethechernesamongthem. puttingsomein the middte andsomearoundtheedge.Spoona little juiceover them Heat the kirschin a pan ignite 1t. andcarefully pour rt over the cherries.Serveimmediately.

984

Melon and strawberry brochetteswith raspberry sauce S~OCHETASDE t.1ELCII ya:;ESCI-I CO\JS~.LS~. 0~ F?..£.IJBUES~.S

• 1/2melon.preferablycantaloupe • 12strawberries. huUed • 2 tablespoons(¼ stick) butt er

.4cup superfw'le sugar

• 1

forthesauce :

• Scant 1cupt aspben ies • juiceof 1/:lemon

• 1 tablespoonconfectioner's "'Si'

Se".-es2

Soak wooden skewers in water for 15-20 minutes and pat dry Meanwhile. remO\'f theseedsfromthe melonandscoopout the flesh with a melon baiter or teaspoon. Hal\'e the strav,berri eslengthwise Thread the melon balls and strav,berry halves alternately onto the skev,·ers Prehe.Jt the broiler. Put the raspberries. lemon juice. and sugarin a foodprocessoror blender andprocesstoa puree.Passthe pureethrough a strainer into a bowl and chill in the refngerator. Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over mediumheat Add thebrochettes and cookquickly, turning frequently. until the trwt is lightly bro'Nned but remains firm. Spnnkle the sugar on the brochettes. placethem on a baking sheet.and caramelizethem under the broiler for a few minutes until they start to brown Spread a little of the raspberry sauceon a plate and placethebrochetteson top.Ser\'e immediately. offeringthe remainingraspberry sauces.e parately. " ote·You can usemetal skev,·ersif you like Other fruit. suchas slices of bananaor piecesof kiwi can alsobe included

985

Crunchyfruit in lemonsauce C~UJ;EN-E CEFRUTASCOf-1 S~.LS/. At l 1.1011

• juice ot2 limes

h c14>brownsugar

•1

• 1 tablespoon chopped fr esh mint

• 2 bananas

• 2mangos • 2 kiwi ftl.it • 1 tablespoonbutter. plus extra fo,greasing • 8 sheetsof phyto pastry

• 8 fresh nint leaves Sauce: • juice ot51emoM

• gratedzestoft lemon • 2 eggyolks • ¼ cupconfectioner's sugar

• 1 tablespoon pot.ato starch

986

Combinethe limejuice. sugar. andchoppe d mint in a shallow dlsh Peeland slice the bananasand put them in the dish Peel.prt and dicethe mangosand addto thedish. Peelanddicethe ki'Nisandput them in the dish Let the fruit macerate.Makethe sauce Put the lemonjuiceand zestin a pan andbring to a boil. Beatthe eggyolks with the sugarand potato starchin a bowl until light and fluffy. Pour in the bodinglemonjuice. stirnng constJntly Pour the mixtureback into the pan and cook stirnng constantly. for a few minutes. t11t,I thickened but do not let it boil. Remo ve the pan from the he.Jt let cool then chillin the retngerator_Preheatthe O\'ento 425°F.Grease a bakingsheet wrth butter Melt the butter in a pan then brush it o,·erbothsidesof thephyllo pa.strysheets. Cut the sheetsin halfand placetwo hal\'eson top of eachother to form a star shape Placea mmt leafon eachsheetof phytlo Drain the frurt reser\'ingthe liquid. and divide it amongthe phyDo sheets. Foldthe pastryO\'er the frUit and pressthe edgesfirmly to se.alPut the packetson the prepared bakmgsheet andbake forabout 10 minutes.until the pasty is lightly browned Meanwtule . stir the reser\'edliquid into the lemonsauce. Removethe packets from the O\'en and serve immediatelyoffenng the sauceseparJtely.

Grilled melon with sesameand honey ME.OhES~.l/. B/.R~.il.(:Q.il. CO"JSES/.IJO YME.

• sunfloweroil.for brushing

• 2 tablespoonsorangeblossom or othersingl'eflowerhoney • 4 small melons.suchas pie:I

de sapo« cantaloupe. halved. seededand cut into wedges

• 2 tablespoonsgraoclllated

Srush thebarbecue gril with otl Pour the honey intoa panand place the panon the s deof thegnll to warmthrough Slicethe melonsand put them on thegnll. Cook for 3-4 minuteson e.Jch~de. until lightly markedwith thebars of thegrill. Transferto a plate and sprinklewith the vanilla sugar and pourthe lemonjuice overthem Putthe melon shcesonindMdualplatesor a serving dlsh andpour thewarmhoney o,·erthem.Sprinklewith thesesameseedsandalmonds andser\'e.

(coarse)vani lasugar • juice ot 1lemon

t,.ote Themelonis good sen·ed with raspberry sauce or melon or

· 2 tablespoon s toastedsesam .e

raspberry sherbet Vanillasugarissimplyvarulla ·flavoredsugar.It ,s

seeds

• 1c14>caramelizeda.-nonds. chopped

a\•Jilablein somemarketsand over the Internet.Tomakert yourself. bury a Ytholevanilla beanin 1 to 2 cups sugar. cover andlet sit for several days.

987

Ricott a cheesewith peachesin syrup QUE SOF!i.ESCO CCI-I,1J£tOCQTCIES EN/.LM~4!i:

• 14 ounoescannedpeachhalws

in syn.., • ¼ OJPsuperfwlesugar • ¼ cuppe.adl iqueur or rum • 16 ladyfingers

• generous1 cup ricottacheese • 4 tablespoonsred cwrant jam

Orainthe peaches . reservingthe syrup Put the syrup into a pan and stir in 4 tab!espoon.sof the sugar.He.atgently until the syrup thickens.thenstir in thepeachliqueuror rum.Removethepanfrom the heat lfgh11ycoat the ladyfingers in the syrup and di\'ide them amongindividualdessertpl.ates.B-e.at thecheesewrththe remaining sugar.Spre.ad the red currant1amon the ladyfingers andcover with the sv,·eetenedchees.e. Decoratew,th the peach halves

S@"',"@S:i

~ote:Theredrurrant jamcanbereplaced in therecipewrthraspberry or blackberryjam

988

Freshfruit soupwith cava SCF!,, o::F~u·~.F~ESC!,, ALc~.\!I,,

• 1 smallpineapple • 20 lycheesor 1 canlychees. drained

• scant 2 cupsraspberries • ¼ cup bcownsugar • 11A cups,cavaor other Spatlding whitewine,chil ed

• 4 fresh mint lea~

Toserve: • juiceof 1/,lemon • SUJ)fffinesugar

• marz.,anpetits fours se,.,,-es:1

l ay the pineapplein a shallowdish to catch thejwce andrut off the crown.Cut the pine.apple into ½-inchslices Cut off and discard the skin. then standeachslice on its side. and cut out the "eyes" with the tip of a sharpknrfe.Lay eachshceflat againand stamp out or cut out the core.Chopthe slicesand put theminto a bowl.Reserve the juice.If youare usingfresh lychees. peel,halve.andprtthem.Addthe fycheesto the pineapple with the raspberries.Stir in the sugar and ctullin the refngeratorfor35 minutes.Preparetheglass.es for serving the fruit soup Brushthe nms of four largegobletsor waterglas.ses with the lemonjuice then dip theminto a saucerof superfinesugar to frost the rims. Set aside.Just beforeser\'ing, poor the reser\·ed juiceand the wineO\·er the fruit Decoratewith the mmt lea\·esand serve in the prepared glasses Offerthe p:eutsfoursseparately ~ote: The frUit may be varied. Orangescould be substituted for pine.appleCut off the orange zests. removing all traces of pith. then cut the segmentsfrom betwee n the membranesand chop. Oothis aver a dish to collectthe juice.Squeezeany juiceout of the membranes.Pour the reservedjuiceoverthe fruit v,·iththe wine. just

beforemvmg

989

Chestnutpureewith layered ladyfingers -1,,!iJA.CE "UH CEC.t.Si.'.~!,,S YSO.ntl.t.S

• sunfloweroil.for brushing

· 2- ltablespoo,nsnm • 3 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • 35 ladyfingers

• 2 eggwtiites

• 1 pound2 ouncescannedsweet chestnut pl.l"ie

• salt 0..stard:

• 2¼cups nilk • 3 tablespoonssupHfinesugar

• 2 eggsor2egg yol.ks · 1 le.l$poonoomstarch Ser•,-esC

990

Srush a 7-inch cakepan with od Put half the rum. half the sugar. and½ cupswater into a shall ow dish and mix well Oip about half the ladyfingers into the mi>: ture. Place a layer of dipped laclyfin· gers in the baseof the prepared pan. Linethe sides of the panwith dipped ladyfingers first cutti ng off one of the roundedends. placing themupright s,deby side, cut endsdov,n Whisk the eggv,hiteswith a pinchof salt in a clean, dry bowl until stiff peaks form, then fold into the chestnut puree Pour half the mixture into the pan Dip some more ladyfingers into the rum mixture andplacethemon top of the puree. Combinethe remainingrumandsugar, st.ri n;1cupwater,and dip the remainmg ladyfingers into this. Add the remaining chestnut m.1x ture to the pan and finish with a final layer of lightly dampened ladyfingers. Brushaluminum foil or waxed paper wrth oil andcover the tin_Put a lid or plate that ls slightly smaller than the diameterof the cake panon top sothat it restsinsidethe pan_Put a light we.,g ht on top of the lid or plate andchill in the refngerator for 6-8 hours Make the custardas descnbed in recll)e !008 To serve remo,·e the lid or plate and carefully take off and discard the foi or waxed paper.Carefully runa round-bladedknifearound theedgeof the pan, and turn the chestnut pureeout on to a servingdish. Serve with the custard pouredover the top or separately in a sauceboat

Chestnutdessert PCS-RE DECAST.£.~/.S

· 1½ envelopes

(11/:tablespoons) unflavoredpowdered&@la tin • ¼ cup superfinesugar • 4ounoescanneds~et

chestnutpl.l"ie •scant ½ cup heavy cream

· 12&adyfi, gers

Pour ¼ cup water into a pan, add the sugar, and sbr until it has dissolved Bnng to a bod andboil for 1minute then remove the pan from the heat Addthe gelatin, stir wel to dissol\'e completely. Stir this mixture into the chestnut puree Stifflywhisk the creamandfold it into the chestnut mixture then pour into a fluted mold Chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours. until set Turn the chestnut mold out onto a ser\'ingdishand placethe ladyfingersaround it Decorate ,,.;ththe wholemarronson top and the chopped marronsaround the edge.

• 3 marronsgtachand1/1c;up choppedman onsglaois.

t,.ote Tomakeit easierto tum out thedessert. first dlPthe mold into

to decorate Ser•,-esC

hot water for 30 seconds Marron glacesare chestnuts that have beencanned in syrup.

991

Ladyfinger. cream.and orangedessert POS-REDESO.ETltl.t.SCREU!,, Y11~.R!,f\JI.S

• 5navetora~s

Prepare this dish the n1ghtbeforeyou intend to serve rt Peel the

.4cup Cointreau,Cura9i(>or

oranges . reservingthe zestof oneof them.thenthinlysliceona plate

other orange-flavored liqueur

in orderto catch the jU1ce. Rinse out a 7-mch cakepan with water

• 1

• 11ouncesladymgers

• V A cups milk • scant 1/, rup superfinesugar • 4eggyolks • 1 tablespoonall-purposefloar • 1 heapingtablespooncornstarch

• sunfloweroil. for brushing • 6 c-andied cherries.halved

Se".-es6-8

and dram thenarrangethe orangeslicesonthe baseand around the sides. Pourthe juiceinto a shallow dishandadd half the liqueur and 2 tablespoonswater Makea layerofladyfingersontopoftheoranges in the baseof the pan. dipping themfirst in thejuice mD:ture Line the sidesof the pan with ladyfingersagam dipping themfirst fl the juice mixture Pour the milk into a panand add the resef\'ed orangezest and half thesugar. Heatgently stirring unhl the sugar ha.sdiss.ol \'ed. and bring to a boil. Beat the eggyolkswith the remaining sugar the flour. cornstarch and the remaining liqueur in a bowl. then stir in a fewspoonfuls of thehot mi k. Pourthe eggyolk mixture into thepan and simmer. stirringconstantly.for about 4 minutes. until thickened. Removethe pan from the heat.remove and discardthe orJngezest. and stir until cold. Pour half the custard into the ca.1!:e pan. make a layer of ladyfingers (not soaked). add the remaining custard. and makea final layerof ladyfingers(not soaked) Brushaluminumfoil or waxed paper with oil andco,•erthe pan. Put a lid or platethat is shghtly smaller than the diameterof the pan on top so that it rests insidethe t.n and add a lrght we,ght. Ctull in the refngerator for Jt te.ast6 hours before ser\'ing i o serve. remove the li d or plate Jnd carefully take off the Jluminumfoil or waxed paper Runa round· bladedknife aroundthe edgeof the pan andturn out onto a ser\'ing dish Decorate with the cherries. . ~ote·Youcanserve ttusdessertwrtha thin custard (seerecipe1008) madewith orangeextract.

992

Ladyfingerswith custardfilling so_tttLAS;:urn1,,s o:C~EM.!.

• 24 ladyfingers

first make thecustardfili ng. Resen·e 2tablespoonsoi the milk and

• 4 cups sunfloweroil

pour the remainder into a pan. Stir in 2 tablespoonsof the sugar. addthe lemonzest.andbringto a boil Beatthe eggyolkswith the remainingsugar the cornstarch. and flour in a bowl and stir in the reser\'edmilk. Gradua lly st.rin the boi5ngmilk.a little at a bme.then pour the custardbackinto thepan. andStmmergently. stirringcon· stanUy.for 3-4 minutes. until thickened Remove the pan from the he.atandlet cool slightly.Cover the flat sidesof half the ladyfingers with a generousla)·erof the warmcustardfilling. Put the remaining ladyfingerson top. but do not pressdownor the custard squirt out Heattheoil in a deep·fr)•er or skillet to 350-375~for until a cube of day•old bre.adbrownsin 30 seconds Beatthe eggsin a shallow dish and coat the filledladyfinge rs in them Addto the hot oi and cook until goldenbrown.Remove wrth a slotted spatula.drJin. and dredgewith sugarwhile they are hot Placethem in a ser\'ing dish andlet coolbeforeserving.

• 2 eggs 0:Jstard r. ing:

• 2¼cups nilk • 3 tablespoonssuperfine sugar.

plusextra for dredplg

• tha'ltyparKIzestofl lemon • 3 eggyolks • 2 heapingtablespoons oomst.arch • 1 tablespoonaU-purpos,e flour

Ser•,-esC

wm

993

Layeredcoffeeand ladyfingerdessert -.t.!i:T.t. OEUOK.A YSO.ETtl4S

• sunfloweroil for brushing

Prepare ti is dish the night before you interd to serve it Brush

• 3 teaspoonsinst.ant

a 7-inch cake pan with oil. Combine 1½ teasp oons instant of the coffee po'Ncf er l ½ t.tll espoonsof the suga r. 1 tablespoon of the rum. and 3 tablespoonswater in a shallow dish Quickly cip about half the ladyfingersinto the liquid. so that they absorb someflavor but are not sodden.Pliee a layerof dippedlad/ fingersinthe baseof the preparedpan Linethe sidesof the pan with dippedladyfingers first cutting off one of the rounded ends. and placingthem upnght side b'j side. cut ends down. Combine the remaining instant coffee. l ½ tablespoonsof the remaining sugar the remaining nm. and 3 tablespoons water Beatthe eggyolkswrthall the remaining sugar in a bowl until pate andfluffy Gradually beat in the butter. small pie· ces at a time. Resef\'e one·third of this creamedm1xture and store in the retngerator until required. Pour half the remaining creamed mixture into thecakepan. cover with a layerof the remainingladyfin· gers. first dipping themin the coffeemi>: ture. pour in the other half of the remairung creamed mo:ture and finish with another layer of lightly dampenedladyfingers. 8rush aluminum foil or waxed paper with od and coverthe t,n Put a lid or platethat 1s shghtly smallerthan the diameter of the panon top and add alight v,·eight. Chill in therefri· gerator for at feast6 hours. Remove the resef\'ed creamed mLX ture from the re-fn,gerator about 2 hours beforeserving to soften About 1- 1½ hours beforeserving. remo\'e the lid or plate and carefully take off the aluminum foil or waxed paper Runa round·bladedkn.fe around the edgeof the pan and turn out onto a ser\'ing dish. Cover the dessertwith the reserved creamed mLX ture. spreading rt evenly with a metal spatula Sprinkle the almonds on top and chill in the refrigerator for 1hour

ooffeepowder

• scant 1 o.ipsupHfinesugar • 2 tablespoonsrum • 35 ladyfingers • 2 eggyolks • 11, cupbutter.softened

• scantlc14>toastedalmonds , ooarsefychopped

Se".-es6-8

994

Layeredstrawberrydessert SJOINCESCtETLAS YFR:s~.s

• sunfloweroil for brushing • 5 tablespoonstirsch • 2 tablespoons superfinesu.g;ar • 36 ladyfingers • 2 1Acupshea-.y«eam • 5 1Acups,ripestra-tienies.

hul~

Sauce: • 4 t.ablespoMsuperfinesug-ar • 3Jfi cupsstrawberries.hlAled

Se".-es6-8

Preparettlis dlsh the ru.ghtbeforert is needed.Brusha 7-inchcake panwith oil. Combinethekirsch. sugar.and¾ cup waterina shallow dish Olp about half the ladyfingersin the liquid. lme the sides of the prepared panw,th d pp:edladyfingersfirst cutting off oneof the rounded ends. placing them upright side by s de cut ends down. Make a layer of dipped ladyfingersoverthe ba.seStiffly whisk the creamandspread halfof it over the layerof ladyfingersin the base of the pan. Setsix strav,berriesasidefor decoration and hal\·ethe remainde r. Put half of them on top of the cream. then CO \'er with a layer of the remairungladyfingers.after first dipping them in the kirschmixture.Addtheremainingcreamtheremamingstrawberries . anda finallayerof hghtlydampenedladyfingersBrushaluminumfoil or waxedpaper with oil andco,•erthe pan. Put a lid or platethat is shghtlysmallerthan the diameter of the pan on top, so that it rests insidethe pan and adda light weight. Chillin the retngeratorfor at le.Jst8 hours. Tomakethe sauce. pour¾ cupwater into a pan. stir in the sugar. and bring to a boil. Cookfor about 10 minutes.then remove the pan from the he.at andlet cool. Put the strawberriesin a fod processororblenderandprocesstoapuree. thenpassthrough a strainer into a bowl Stir in the cooledsyrup.Storein the reffi,gera· tor until required.Toserve. remO\'ethe lid or plate andcarefully take off the foil or waxedpaper. Runa round-bladed knifearound theedge of the pan andturn out onto a ser\'ing dish Pour the sauce O\'erthe top and decoratewrththe reservedstrawbernes. Serve ctulled t-.ote The fillingcanbe madeby crushingthe strawberneswith a fork and mixingthem with the ere.amAlpinestrawberries can be used if available . to makea more deficatepudding

995

Ladyfingerswith jam andchocolate so_tt tLASCOf-1 M: RME_AO!,, YC- 0C0. rE

or raspberryjam

Spread a ltt! e of the apricot or raspberry ;am on the flat side of a ladyfingerand placeanother oneon top, pressq' them together

• 36 spongefingers

Oipthemin the milkand thenroll themin thechocolate Repe.atwt,h

• 4 tablespoonscoldmitk

the remaining ladyfingers Placeeach prepared ladyfinger ·sand· wich~in a cupcakewrapp:er .

• 6 tablespoonsapcioot

• 7ounoeschocolate . ooarsleygrated

Ma,.e!:S

996

Tiramisu ·t~At.11S U

• 3 tablespoonsrum • lcupwrystrongcoffee

• 5 tablespoons superfiiesug;ar • 20 ladyfingers

• 4eggyolks • sunfloweroil.for brustjog • 1¼ cupsmasc-arpooe cheese • 3 tablespoonsunsweetened ooooapowder

• 3 cups,thict custard (see recipe 1008)

lme an 8-inchcakepanwith a removeable basew,th aluminumfoil Combinetherum.coffee.and 3 tablespoons oi thesugar in ashallow dish Dip the ladyfingersinto the mixtureand makea layerof them in the baseof the pan. Beatthe eggsyolksYiiththe masc.arpone in a bowl.CO\'erthe layerof ladyfinge rs Yiith a layer of the mas.car· ponemLXt ure. sprinklewitha little of the remamin,g sugar. andmake anotherlayer of dippedladyfingerson top Continuemakmglayers in this wayuntil the pan is full. finishingwith a layer of ladyfingers. Crush aluminum foil or waxedpaperwith od andcoverthe pan Put a lid or platethat ls slightly smallerthan the diameter of the pan on top so that rt rests ins,de the pan, and add a light v,·e;,ghtChill in the refrigeratorfor 24 hours Tosen·e. remove the lid or plate and carefullytakeoff the foil or waxedpaper Turnthe tiram,su out onto a ser\'ingdish remove the aluminumfoil. andsprinkle unsv,·eetened cocoapowderO\'erit. Ser\'ethe custardseparate ly in a sauceboat t-.ote:Thenameof ttuspopulardessertof Italianoriginmeans pick meup.

997

Churros c-u~;:os

• 1½ cupS, al -purpose flour • 4-4 1Acups,s1.11Roweroil

• oonfectione(ssugar. forck"edging

• salt Ma•esabot.A25

Pour l ¼ cupswaterinto a pan. add a pinch of salt and bringto a boil. Pourin the flourall at onceandcook stirringconstantlyuntil the mixturecomesawayfromthe sides of the pan. Remo\'ethe pan from the heatandlet cool.Heatthe oil in a deep-fryeror deepskillet to 350-375 iF or untila cubeofday-oldbreadbrownsin30 seconds Put the cooledmix-tureinto a churreraandmakethechurros cutting them to therequiredlengthwith a sharpknrfeasthe doughis pushed out andaddingthemimmediatelyto the hot oil. Alternatively, spoon the cooledmixtureinto a pastry bagfitted with a star tip andpipe directlyintothehot oil cuttingthechurrosto therequiredlengthwrth a sharp knife and workingin batchesif necessa ry Whenthe strips of frieddough aregolden bro'Nnal over. carefullyremove themwith a slotted spoon. dra n well. dredgewrth confectionerssugar. and serveimmediate ly whilehot. ~ote Thesesv,·ee-tfnedpastrystops.areextremelypopular in Spain. latin Americaandthe US.

998

Honeycoatedpastr ies PES'IIOS

• 2¾ cups,al -purpose flour. plus extrafor dusting • 5 tablespoonswhitewine

• 2 tablespoons(¼stick) butter • 2 ½ tablespoonslard

• 4 cupssunfloweroil

• generouslcuphoney • salt Ma,esabot.ASO

Sift the flour with a pmchof salt ontoa sheetof waxedpaper Pour the wineand ¾ cup water into a pan. add the butter andlard and he.atun1i1 the tat hasmelted.Pourin the flour all at once. remo\'e the pan from the heat.andst,r 'A'ellwith a woodenspoon Turnout the doughontoa worksurfaceandkne.adwel . Shapethe doughinto a ball. wrapin aluminumfoil. andlet restfor 1- 2 hours..Rollout the dough to a very thmsheet on a ightly flouredsurface.Witha sharp kn.-fe.cut it into rectangles. . about6x31/4 inches..Startingat one corner. roll the rectanglesup. Curl eachoneroundlike a miniature croissant.damp:en onecomer.andstidt it to theothersothatthe roll doesnot openv,henfrying.He.atthe oil ina deep•frye r or deepskillet to350-375'f or until a cubeof day-oldbre.Jdbrownsin30 seconds

Addthepastnes . inbatches. andcookuntllgolde n bro-.nRemove witha slottedspoon. dra n 'A'ell.and let cool.Putthe pastnesonwire racksset over shallowdishesor trays SpoonthehoneyO\'erthem(if it's not sufficientJyrunny stir in a little warmwater).let standuntil the honeyis no longerrunning off thepastries.then transferthemto a servingdash.

999

Fritters SJtbE.OS

• 2 ¾ cupsall.purposeflour • 3 tablespoons'Ahitnrine • 5 cups,sunfloweroil • 1½ cupsmilk

• 5eggs • ¼ teaspoonbakiogpowde

• fresh fruit suchas bananasot appleschunks.pineappleslices. figs or cooledrioeOf semolina pudd ing

• salt

se,.,,-es6

1000

• 12 aprioots.halved andpitted

• 11A cups,confectioner's sugar

• pinch of gtOI.Wldcinnamon • 1 tablespoonraspberryliqueur

• 3 cups,sunfloweroil

Batter: • 2 ¾ cupsall-purposeflour • 3 tablespoonsbeer

• 3 tablespoonssunfloweroil

• 1 tablespoonsuperfinesugar • 1¾ cupsmilk • ¼ teaspoonbaking powder

• salt

Sauce: • gene rous1/taip raspberries • juice of 1/,lemon • 1½ tablespoonssuperfwlesugar

• pinch of gtOI.Wldcinnamon S@"',"@S:i

S,H the flourwitha pinchof saltintoabowl.makea v,·ellin the center. and poor in the wine and 3 tablespoonsof the oil. Mix well with a woodenspoon then graduaUy stir in the mdk. and add the eggs. oneat a time.Cover thebowland letstand forat lea.st30 minutes. StirinthebaJungpowderwhenyouare readytostart cookingUs.e the batterto coatpiecesof freshfrUit.suchasbananaapple. pineapple. and figs.or cooled and set rice or semolina pudding beforedeep· fryingin hot oi . Heatthe remaining oi in a deep-fryeror deepski et to350- 3i5~For until a cubeof day-oldbreadbrownsin30 seconds. Carefullyaddthe fntters in batches. andcoo>:untilgolden brown Remove witha slottedspoondrainwell. andlet cool.Repeatwrththe remainingfrittffs

Apricotfr itters with raspberryandcinnamon sauce SJl)tlE.OSOEl,LB.il.liJCOQUE CCI-IS~.LS!, o:f~.il.t.18JES~. YC!,~[Ll. f irst makethe batter Sdt the flourwith a pinchof salt into a bo'N I. makea well in thecenter andpour in the beerand oil Stir in the sugarand mix wellwith a woodenspoon.Gradually stir in themilk. then cover andlet rest for at least 30 minutes.Reserve half the apricots put the rest into a foodprocessoror blenderwith a little water. and processto a puree Scrapeinto a pan. stir in 1/2cup of the confectioner'ssugar. andcoo>:O\'erlowheat stirring occasion· ally. for 10 minutesRemo \·e the panfromthe heatandlet cool. Stir in thecinnamonandthe raspberryliqueur Makethe sauce.Put the raspbernes . lemonjuice. andsugarintoa foodprocess.or or blender. Addthe apricot pureeandprocessuntil smooth Straminto a bowl and stir in thecinnamon. lieatthe011 in a deep-fryeror deepskillet to 350-3i5°F oruntda cubeof day-oldbreadbrownsin30seconds.Stir thebaJungpowderintothebatter.0ipthe remaining apncotsintothe batterto coat thenadd to the hot oil.andcookfor about2 minutes. until puffedup andgolden brown.Remove with a slottedspoon and

drainoopapertowels , thendredgein theremaining confectioner's sugar.Sen·e the fritters with the raspberryand cinnamonsauce offeredseparatelyin a sauceboat.

1001

Crepes c~EPES

• 2¼cupsall-purpoS,e flow • 1 heapingteaspoonsuperfw'le,

suga, • 2 eggs • 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil, plus extra for brushing • 1 tablespoonrum « brandy

• ¼cup milk

• salt Ma•es:5- 20

1002

Sift the flour with a p,nch of salt into a bo'III. stir in the sugar. and makea well in thecenter Breakthe eggsinto thewell and pourinthe od and rum or brandy. Stirwell. until the mix ture is smooth.Comb,ne the milk wrth ¼ cup water and gradually st.r it into the batter a little at a time. Thebatter should ha\'e the consistenc y of thick custard and rt may be necessar y to adda little more liquid, depending on the type of flour Co\'er the bov,I w,th a deandishto'Nel andlet rest for at le.ast l hour. longerif possible When you are ready to cook. stir the batter If it ha.sbecometoo thick stir in a little more mixed milk andwater.Brush oil over the basesof two small heavy skillets. about 5 ½ inchesin diameter. Heat well. Pour a ladleful of the batter into a skillet and tilt the pan so that it covers the wholebaseevenly Cook gen11 y shaking the pan to prevent the crepefrom stickingor burning until the underside1s golden brown.Toss the crepeto turn or flip rt O\'er with a metal spatula. and cookuntil the secondsidels ightly browned. Meany,hae. pour a ladlefulof batter into the second skiUet and cook in the s.ameway It 1s usualto makecrepesin two panssimultaneously as,tis quicker Puta pan full of ,•ery hot water o,·er lo'Nhe.at put a flatplateon top like a lid. andput a largesheetof aluminum foll on the plate. As the crepesarecooked transfer them to the aluminumfoil. then fold it O\'er them to keepthem warmwhlle youcook the remarningcrepes

Saucefor crepessuzette S~.LS~ o:CR~PES SJZETE

• 2 tablespoonsCura9i0. or other «ange•flavoc-ed liqueur

Melt the butter in a skillet Add the Cura~ao. sugar. andorangejuice and cookfor a few minutes.Addsix or seven crep:es. foldedinto four to heat through in the sauce. Briefly warmthe rum or brandy ignite

• 2 tablespoons superfule sugar

rt. andcarefullypour it over thecrepesGently shake thepanuntll

, 1h

the flamesd:e down, thenserve the crepesimmed1atelyw1ththe hot

• 2 tablespoons(¼ stict) butter

cuporangejuice

• ¼ quantity Crepes

(see recipe1001) • 2 tablespoonsrum or brandy Fcr6- 7c e-:i€s

sauceontop

1003

Crepeswith custard filling ci;£:i,:s RLL:IIASOECREU/.

• l(Jlan tityCr epes

(see recipe1001) • 5 tablespoonssuperfinesu.g;ar • 2 tablespoonsrum or brand)"

Make the custardriUin g , JSdescribed in recipe 1008. in advanceand let cool. F~Ieachcrepewith custard and roll it up.Placethe crepes next to each other. and sprinkle them with thesugar or ftambe them with the rum or brandy asdescnbed in rec..pe 1005

C~ta rd: • 2 ¼ cups milk

• 5 tablespoons superfiiesug;ar • pindl of vanilla powderOf a few dropsof vanilla extract

or gratedzestof 1lemon

• 3 egg yolks • 11/r teaspoonsaU-pl#poseflour • 1½ tablespoons oomst.arch

5e...,-es2-!

1004

Crepesfilled with cream cn£:i,:s RLL':li~SOENAT~

• llJ,lantityCrepes (see recipe1001)

Make the crepesand. while they are fresh. fil them w,th wtupp:ed cream and pour thecaramel sauce over the top

• l ¼cupswh ipped cream

• 1 (Jlantity CaramelSauoe (seerec.,e ll7) f.ti•.es15-20

1005

~ote: Crepesaredelia.ous filledsirnplywrth apricot or other ,am

Flambeedcrepes C!iE:i,:sFl.t.t.1£.AO!,,S

• llJ,lantityCrepes (see recipe1001) • 5 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • 2 tablespoonsrum or brand)1'

Ma•esl5- 20

fol d the crepes in four and place them in a dish. then sprinkle the sugar over them Heatthe rum or brandy in a small pan. ignite it. and carefully pour rt O\'er the crepes. Scoop up the spirit from the dish with a tablespoon and pour it back over the crepesso that the flames do not die down too rapidly

1006

Silverdollarpancakes -o?.-'-ASA.M:RO.f.lAS

• 1'.4cupull-purposeflour

• 1/,teaspoonsalt • 1½ teaspoonsbatillg powder

• 1 tablespoonsupemle sugar • 2 eggs

• 1 tablespoonsunfloweroil • lc14>milk Ma•esabot.A: !

Sift the flour with the s.altand bakingpowder onto a plate and add the sugar. Lightly beat the eggsin a bo\\1and stir in the oil andmilk Add the dry ingredients and beatbriefly (it doesnot matter rf there are li mpsasthesewill dissol\'e ontheir ownwhen thepancakesare cooked). Pour the batter into a pitcher He.ata flat gndd!e or stO\'f· top grillpan Pour about I tablespoonof the batteronto it and cook for 2-3 minutes until bubbles start to rise Turn thepancake with a spatula and cookuntil golden brown on the unders.de Try to s.erve theseimmediately. If they ha\'e to wart a while keepthem warm in little piles of no more than four. t,.ote Serve these pancakesw,th cream and Caramel Sauce(see recipell 7). chocolate sauce. or jam They can also be eatenspread with butter and jam.

1007

Bartolillos 81,R-0.IU0S

· lquantitydough

(see recipe968) • !quantity Confection er'scream

(see recipe1010) • 6¼ cups,sunfloweroil

• oonfectioner'ssugar. forck"edging Ma•esabod20

Make the pastry dough as described in recipe 968 and let rest Make the confectioners' cre.Jmas described in recip e !010 and let cool Roll out the doughto a thin sheeton a lightly floured surface Cut out 4-inch rounds wrth a cook.e cutter. Put 1 tablespoon of the confect,one(sc reamon eJCh round and fold the bartolillo. pressing doYin firmly aroundthe edges to se.al(You could usethe metal wheel designed for cutti ng empanadilla.s. 1f you have one) He.Jt the oil in a deep-fryer or deepskillet to 350-375 °F or until a cube of day-old bread browns in 30 seconds. Add the bartohllos. in batches. and cookuntilgoldenbrown.Remove with a slotted spoonanddram Yiell. thentransfer to a s.ervingdish. and dredgewith confectioner'ssugar. Ser\'ewarmor cold t,.ote Bartolillos are small ere.am-fi lled pastries popular in Madrid and throughoutSpain

Custards and creams

Homemade custardsandere.ams aredelicious.but thereis a trick to makingthem. from custard to confectio ne(s cream many ofthem are usedin thepreparationot numerousdesse rts andalsoconstitute desserts in themsel\'es They ha\'e a common denominator- their extreme fragility Thereforeyou should us.etop-quality ingredients for them and eat themwithin hours of their beingmade Custards:

Makinga trad1t1onaleggcustardrequiresa miepatienceandcare.tt acquiresits characteristicconsistency because heatcausestheegg yolks to coagulate. Therefore. the more eggyolks added. the thicker the custard willbe.

• The usual proportionis8 eggyolksfor every 4 cupsmifk and 1¼cupssugar. but add moreyolksfor a thicker custard • Rinseoutthepanwithcoldwaterbeforepouringin themilk.This pre\·entsthemilk stickingto thebaseand sides.ofthepan • It is critical to be thorough vihen beatingthe eggyolkswithsugar Putthesugarin a bo~ andmakea v,·ell in thecenter_Add theeggs andbeatquicklywrth a whiskuntil the mixtureis smooth • Remember to washyour handsafter bre.aking theeggsto a\·oid· bacterialcontamination • Becarefulwhen heatingthe custard.ft should thd ;enbut not cook toomuchandshould never boil.asit would spod andlumps wouldform Howe ,•er if ft doesn't cookenough. rt willbe toohquid Tofindtheide.alpoint.removea little of thecustardwith a spatula anddrawa line in ft with your finger. Themarkshould beclearif the sidesrejoin. thecustard i.s not yet cooked enough • If the custardspoils, it may be pos.si ble toresrue rt Puta i ttle cold water in a bowlandgradually pourin thecustard a little at a time. stirring\'igorously Confectioner's cream: • The bas.e is the sameasfor custard but it is usual to addflouror cornstarch to thicken it • Addthecornstarchverycarefully.beatingwith a whisk, but do not mi>:too muchor the ere.am wil harden • io pre\·ent a skin forming astheconfectioner's cream coots. sprinkle confectioner"s sugar overthe top or cover rt with plasticwrap.

Custard

1008

t\rltl.t.S • 6 1.4cups,milk

• 6 heapingt.ablespoM supedine

sug,, • th inly pared znt

of I lemon

Pour the milk into a pan. add 4 tablespoonsof the sugar and the lemon zest.and bringjust to a bod Meanwhile. beatthe eggyolks with the remainingsugar and the cornstarch in a bovd.Gradually stir in the hot milk a little at a time. then pour the custard back

intothe pan. lowerthe heat andcook.stirnngconstantly. for about 5 minutesuntil thickened and smooth Oo not let the mixtureboil Strain the custard andpourit into a deep dish or indivldualdishesor bowls.Ctull in the refngerator until required. Sprinkle a little ground cinnamonon the topbeforeservingif you like.

or 2 v.anil1a beaM • 6 eggyolks • 1 tablespooncornstarch • pindl of groundcinnamon

(optional)

Se".-es6-8

1009

0

Catalancream C!iEIH C/.-/.. ~.11.il.

• 4rups, mi k

h cup superfiie sugar

• 1

• thinlyparedze-stoftlemon • Seggyolks • 1½ - 2 t.ablespooMpotato

starchor comstardl Se".-es6

Pour the milk into a pan. add 4 tablespoonsof the sugar and the lemon zest. and bring jus1to a boil Meanwhilebeat the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of the remairung sugar and the potato starch. Gradually stir in the hot milk, then pour the custard into the pan. low er the he.atand cook. stirring con-stantly for about 5 minutes. until th.ckened Strain into a ser\'ing dish or individual dishesand let cool. then ch.iiin the refrigeratorfor at least l hour.Just before ser\'ing. sprinkte the remaining sugar on top anduse a krtchen blow torch to caramelizert t-.ote Crema catalanais the best-knownSpanish dessertand ls said by someto be the predecessorof France'scremebrutee.

1010

Confectioner's creamfor fillings C~EM.!. P.t.S-ELER~. (P.t.R~. RHL':f-10S)

• 2YHupsmilk • S tablespoonssuperfinesu.gar

• thinlypared zest of 1lemon. or pinchof vanilla powderor

a fewdropsofvanilla extract • 3eggyolks

• 2tabl@$pooMCOJMtarch • 1t.ablespoonall-purposeflour • 1eggwhite(optional) • satt (optional) Ser,,es6

Reserve 3 tablespoons of the milk. Pour the remainmg milk into a pan. add 3 tablespoons oi the sugarandthe lemonzest or vanilla and bring just to a boll Meanwhile beat the egg yolks wit h the remainingsugar. the cornstarch flour. and reservedmilk I\ a bowl. Gradually stir in the hot milk. a little at a time. then pour the custard back into the pan. and simmer over low heat stirring constantly. for about 5 minutes until thickene d and smooth. Remove the pan from the he.atpour the custard intoa dishor a bowl and let cool. Remo,·e and discard the lemon zest.if using. tf you hke. whisk the eggwhrte with a pinchof salt in a clean. dry boYil until strff peaks form then fold ,t into the custard

?

1011

Confectioner's cream C!iEIHP.t.f>t.:.L':R/.

• 4eggyolks

• 9 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • 1 teaspoonal -purpose flour • 2 heapingtablespoons

oomstarch • 4cupsm ilk

• 1 vanil a bean.pinchof vanill'a powderor a fewdropsof vanilla

extract Se".-es6-8

Combine the egg yolks. 3 tablespoons of the sugar. the flour. and corns1Jrchin a bowt.Pour the milk into a pan add 3 tablespoonsof theremainingsugar and the\'amll.a. andhe.at stirringuntil thesugar ha.s dissol\'ed. then bring to a boil. Stir about 4 tablespoons of the milk ll to the eggyolk mi>:ture. then pour the mo:ture i'lto the pan Cook stirring constantly. for about 3 minutes. until thickened Re· move the panfrom the heat and remo\'e the vamll.abe.a n. ri used. let cool stirring occasIonally. When the rum baba is.cold andhasbeen turned out onto a serving dish. pour the cooledconfect.oner'scream into the centerandsprinklewrththe remainingsugar.Caramellze the sugarwrtha kitchenblow torch.Serve immediatel y

1012

Custardwith a floating island r-.riu.t.scor-. ;oc.t.no·1,r-.n

c~ tard::

f irst make the caramel. Put the sugar in a pan, add1tablespoonwa• ter. and st.r to d1ssol\'e, then cooko,•er lowheat until golden Pour the caramelinto a cake pan andpour rt backandforth until the base is completely coated. let cool. Make the custard. Pour the milk into a pan.addhalfthesugarandthe vanilla and bringjustto a bod Mean· while.beat theeggyolkswith theremamingsugar andthecornstarch in a bowt.Gradually stir in the hot milk. a little at a time. then pour the custard backinto the pan, andcook over medium heat.st.rring constantly. for a few minutes. until thickened, but do not let 1t boil. Strain into a deep serving dish. let cool. and then chill in the refng· erator. Prehe.Jtthe oven to 300' f i o make the island. Ythiskthe egg whites.in aclean.dry bowtmtJ.Istiff peaksform. then whisk inhalf the sugar Put the remaining sugar into a pan. add 2 tablespoonswater. and st,r to dissolve. then cook O\'er low he.atuntil a dark golden color. but do not let the caramel burn or rt willtaste brtter. Gradually pour the caramelonto the eggwhites.a little at a time stIrnngquicliJyso that it miXes.well andno lumpsof caramelform Pour themo:ture into the carameI·5ned pan. Placeit in a roasting pan.pour il hot water to

• 3 cups,milk

• 6 tablespoonssugar • pindl of vanilla powderOf

a fewdropsohanil a extract • 4eggyolks • 1 tablespooncornstarch

Rode • Seggwhites • ¼ cupsuperfine sugar

Caramel : • 2 tablespoons superfinesu.g;ar

Se".-es6

come about hallway upthes.desand bake forabout 25minutes. Remove from the O\'en and let cool. i o sen·e. pour the island out on top of the cus1ard.

1013

Chocolatecustard C~EM.!. OECHOCCtAl:

• 8 ouncesbittersweetchocolate

Putthe chocolateandhotwater intoa panand melt overlowhe.at

• 3- 4 tablespoomhot water

stirnngoccasionalty. Remo ,·ethepanfromtheheat.Pourthemilkinto anotherpan,add 4 tablespoons of the sugar.and stir to dis.solve. then bnngjust to a boil. Me.anwhde beatthe eggyolksv;iththe remaining sugarand the cornstarchin a bowl Gradually stir in the hot milk. a littl eat a time thenpour the custardbackintothe pan andcookO\'er a mediumhe.atstirnngconstantly. for a few minutes. untilttuckened Stir in themeltedchocolate mixtureandcook. stirring constantly. for J minutesmore.but donotlet themixtureboil. Remo ve thepan from the he.atandlet thecustardcoot.thenstrain into a bowl. and chillin the refrigerator until required.

• 4 cups,milk

• 6 tablespooMsupE1fflesuga.t • 3eggyolks

• 1¼ tablespoonscormtarch Ser,,-es6

t,.ote Todecorate the custard. stiffly whisk 2 eggwhitesin a grease· tree bowl and fold in 2 tablespoonssuperfine sugar Put spoonfuls of the mixtureon top of the custard and sprinkle with 10 chopp:ed trosted almonds.

1014

Sugared bunpudding SJOINCOr-iSUIZCS

• 1.4cupcurrants

• 3 tablespoons sherryor

other sweetforifiedwine • 5 tablespoons superfinesu.g;ar

• 2cupS,mi lk • 3- 4day•okl sugareddoughnuts

or swett boos.a d into 1/:-inch slices

• 3 eggs

• 1 :ture V/hlsktheeggwhiteswrtha pmchof salt in a dean. dry bowluntil stiff peaks form. thengentlyfold theminto the cooledchocolatemixture.Spoonthemousseinto J serving bowl indMduallime pots. or champagneglassesand chill in the retng· eratorfor at least1hour.Decoratethe moussewith a little creamor cherries and servewith languesde Chat(seerecipe943) or other cookiesif youlike.

Ser•,-esC

t,.ote Whippedcreamcanbe mixedinto the mousse.but in this case whisk only 3 eggYthites.

103 3

Chocolate moussewit h ladyfingers uouss::o::c-oco. rE CON SOtET tLAS

• 1/,c14>(1 I/: sticks) rotter . softened, plus extra fo,greasing

• 3- 4 tablespoonsrum • 6 tablespoonssuperfinesug;ar • 35 ladyfingers

• 3½ ounoessemisWHt chocolate. bfobn into pieces

• 3 bbl~Mmilk

• 3 egg yolks • 4 egg wtaites

• salt • wtaippedcream. to deoorate

(optional) c~tard (optional):

• 2½ cupsmilk • 5 tablespoons superfinesu.g;ar

• 3 egg yolks • 1 tablespooncornstarch

5e...,-es6-8

Gre.asean 8-inchcake pan with butter Combine ¾ cup water. 1½ tablespoonsof the rum. and l tablespoon of the sugar in a shallow dish Dip about half the ladyfingers in the rruxture and makea layer of them in the ba.se of the prepared pan Line the sides of the pan with dipp:ed ladyfingers first cutt,ng off one of the rounded ends. placing themupright side by side. cut ends down.Makethemousse asdescribedin recipe1032. but usingmorebutter so that Ythen it ls turnedout of the pan it can stand up Mix another batchof the liqUid for dippmg the ladyfingers Spoon half the mousseinto the pan and cover 1t with a layer of dipped ladyfingers. Spoon in the remaining mouseand acida final layer of igh tly dampened ladyfingers. Put a greasedlid or platethat is slightly smaller than the diameterof the pan on top so that it restsinsidethe tm and add a ltghtweight Chill in the refrigerator for at least 5 hours. Make the custard. if usmg. as descnbed in recipe 1008. Toserve remove the lid or plate. then run a round·bladed kn.-fe around the edgeof the pan and tum the mousseout onto a roundserving dlsh. Decoratewit h creamor serve with custardpoured overthe top.

1034

Light chocolatecrownwith custard CORON/. OEC,iOCCt/.·EtlGE~~-CO\'r,.q_t/.S

, 1.4cup (½stick) butter.

Preheatthe ovento 300' F Generously greasea nng mold with but·

plus extrafor greasing

ter Creak the chocolateintopieces.Pour 5 tab1espoonswater into

• 5ouncessemisweetchocolat:e • ¾ cup superfinesugar

• 2 eggyolks • ¼ cup groundalmonds • 4 egg whites

• salt • wfippedcteam.to deoorate

(optional) 0:Jstard(optional):

a pan. add the chocolate. and heat gently until the chocolatehas melted Remove thepan from thehe.atand let cool slightly.Stir in the butter sugar. eggyolks and ground almonds. Whlsk the eggwhites with a pinch of s.altin a clean. dry bowl until stiff peaksform then gently fold themintothe mixture Pour themixture into theprepared mold. put it in a rw sting pan. pour in boiling water to comehalfway up the sides. and bake for 45-60 minutes. until s.et Remo ve the mold from the roastingpan and let cool Make the custard d us ng as describedin recipe1008 Turn thedessertout onto a s.e rvingdish and decoratewith creamor serve with custard

• 2¼cups nilk • 2 eggyolks

• 5 tablespoonssuperfiiesugar • 1 tablespooncornstarch • pinchofvaniltapowderor a fewdropsof vanillaextract

Ser,,esC

1035

Chocolatemarquise M~li.QJES/. o:C- OCO.~.TE

• 7ounoesbittersweetchocolate. brokeninto pieoes

•' h cupbutter.melted. plus extra for greasing

• scantl cupheavycream • generous1 cupoontectionef's

"'i" • 3 eggs.separated

• 1 tablespoonvanillasugar • salt

· si ced~mquats. todecorate Ser•,-esC

Melt the chocolatein a he.atproof bowl set O\'er a pan of barely simmenngwater. Remove from the heat stir in the butter. and let cool Seat the creaminto the chocolate mixture. Rese r\'e 2 tabtespoons of the confectioner s sugar and beat the egg yolks wrth the remain· der and with the vanilla sugar in a bowl until pale and fluffy. Stir in the chocolate mixture. Whisk the egg v,hiteswith a pinch of salt in a clean. dry bowl until stiff peaks form. then whisk in the reserved sugar. Gently fold the eggwhites into the chocolate mixture. Grease a tongor round mold with butter andpour the mixture into it Chil in the refngerator for 12hours. until set Turn the dessertout of the

mold. decorate wit h slicesofkumQ uat andserve. t,.ote Run the bladeof the kn.rte undercold water before attempting to shce the marquise. Vanillasugar ls Stmply varulla.·fla·vored sugar ft ls available to buy. but to make it yourself. bury a wholevanillabean in l to 2 cupssugar. CO\' er and let sit for several days.

Lemoncream

1036

C!iEIJ~. cu~.J~.O.li CEl MOIi • 1 tablespoonoomst.ardl

. 4eggs • gratedzest of 21emons • juice of l Iemons

• 1 cup superfinesugar

Se•ws.5-6

Put the cornstarchinto a bowl and gradually stir in 1 cup water to makea smooth pasteBeattheeggsin a stove-to p safecasserole and add thelemonzestandjUJce. sugar . andthe cornstarch mixture.MlX well, bnng to a boil overtow he.atstirring constantly. andcook, stal stirnngconstantly,for3 minutesRemove fromthehe.atandlet cool. then chlll in the refn,ge rator if youlike. Sen·e with Languesde Chat (seerecipe 943) or other cookies

Lemoncurd

1037

C!iE'J~.O: l MOIi

.4cup( ½ stick) butter

, 1

• juice of l Iemons

· gratedzest oft lemon • 1¼ cups superfinesugar • 3 eggs.1-sti tty beaten

Ser."Es. .i-6

Melt the butter in a pan and remove the panfrom the heat.Addthe lemon juiceandzest stir in the sugarand beatin the eggs Putthe panin J roastingpan.pour inhot water to comeabout halfwayup the sides. andsetm•er lowheat.Cook stirnngconstantly.for 15minutes. until thickened Removethe pan from the heatand pour the mLX ture into a sterilizedscrew-top jar Se.althe lid andstore in a cool place. but not the refrigerator.Useto makelemonmeringuepie or spread on breadlikejam

Lemonmousse

1038

MO:!.ISS : o:LIMON

· 4eggyolks • 1/,cup superfiie sugar • juiceoUlemon • gratedzest of ½ lemon • 4 egg wtaites

· salt • 6 c-andiedchmi~

Se".-es. 5-6

to decorate

Se.atthe eggyolks with the sugarand lemonjuice in a pan Put the panin J roastingpan.pour inhot water to comeabout halfwayup the sides. andcookoverlowheat stirringconstanUy.for 15-20 minutes. until almostdoubtedin volume. Remove the panfromthe heatandlet cool Stir the lemonzestinto the mixture.Whisk the eggwhiteswith a pinchof salt in a clean, dry bowl until stiff pe.aksform. thengently fold them into theeggyolkm1xture Pourthe mi>:ture into i ttle bowls or champagne glasses. andchill in the refrigeratorfor about 2 hours. Sen·ethe mous. se decoratedw,th candied cherriesand accompa·

niedby Languesd eChat(seerecipe943)orotherrookie;

1039

Datemousse MOLlSS~ 0~ o.ntES

• 2 ¼ cups rrilk

• 5 tablespoonssuperfiiesugar • 1cinnamonstick

• 3 eggyolks

• 2 tablespoonscornst.ardl • 1 tablespoonaU-purpos,e flour • 30dates

• le.ggwhite

Ser•,-esC

Rese rve 3 tablespoonsof the milk pour the remainder into a pan. and add3 tablespoons of the sugarandthe annamon.Bring toa boil. 8eat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. the cornstarch. ftour. and reser\'ed milk in a bowt.GraduaUystir in the hot milk a little at a time. then pour thecustardbeck into thepan and s.mmer o,·er low heat stirringconstantly. for 7 minutes. Pour the custard intoa bowl. remo\'e the ciMamonstick,and let cool.Setthreeoi thedatesaside. ff your datesare re.ad y •to·eat. p:eeland pit the remainingones put them into a food processor or blender. add the cooledcustard. and proces.sfor 5 minutes until thoroughly combined then transfer to a bowl Whisk the eggwhite in a clean dry bowl until stiff peaks form. then gently fold into the mousse.Spoon the mousseinto indMdual servingdishes..Cut the res.e rveddatesin half and remo\'e the pits. ri necessa ry. Tope.achmoussewit h a date halfandchill in therefnge· rator until set t,.ote Ground annamonmay be spnnkledon top of the mous.seThis dessert is also delicious ri a vanilla bean is substituted for the cin· namon stick

1040

Coffeemoussewith farmercheese MO:JSS: o: C,U,: COii'UQUES0'1

• generous1ai p farmercheese.

cut intopieces • 4 tablespoonssuperfinesugar

• 3-4 t.ablespooMrum • 2 tablespoonsinst.antcoffee po,,de< • ¼ cup hot milk

• 2 eggwhites

• salt

Put thefarmer cheeseinto a bowl.spnnkle witht hesugar and addthe rum. Dissol\'e the coffeepowder in the hot mi k. let coolshghtJy then pour into thebowl. Mix well usmg a hand·held blender Whisk the egg whiteswith a pinch oi salt in a d e.andry bowl until stiff peaks form thencarefully fold themintothe cheesemixture. Put themousseinto glassesand chill in the refrigerator for several hours.. Serve with l an guesdeChat (seerecipe943). if you like

LfCHE e

1041

Orangemousse MOLlSS~0~ li~IWIJ.l,

• 3 tablespoonsCointreau,

Put the orangejuiceinto a pan and stir in the sugarto taste. Mix the cornstarch with 4 tablespoonswater in a bowl. Heatthe juice and when bubbles begin to appear around the edgeof the pan stir in the cornstarch mix ture and cook. stirring constantfy.for 3 minutes.

C..ra~oor otherorange-

Remove the panfromtheheatandlet coot.stirnngto preventa skin

fl.avo.-ed liqueur

peeledandsliced.to decorate

forming.Sbr in the liqueur and beat in the eggyolks. V/h~sk the egg whrteswith a pmch of s.altin a clean. dry bowl until stiff pe.aks form. then gently fold them into the mousse Oi\'ide the mi>: ture among indiVtdual serving dishesor champagne glasses. and ctull in the refri· gerator for about 3 hoursun1i1themoussei.s set.Just before ser\'ing decoratethe moussewit h orangeslices Servewith l angues.deChat

Set'i@S6

(see reci~• 943)

• juiceof 3 largeorarcges • ½ - ¾c...»superfinesugar

• 2tablespooMCOJMtarch

• 2eggyolks

• 3 eggwhites ·salt

· lorange.

1042

Fruit gelatin o:F~JT~S

GEL~-1 \!J • 1pound2 ouncesmixedfruit

suchasbananas.a.pples. peaches.plims.. grapes. strawberriesOf raspberries • 3 tablespoonsrumor brandy

• generous½ cup superfineSlt$ar • 1cuporangejuice • 1enwlope(1 tablespoon)

unflavoredpowderedgelatin

Set•,es6

Makethis dessert the mgM beforeyou intend to sen·e it Prepare the fruit in the appropnateway andcut rt into pieces. Put them into a bowl. pour therum or brandy over them. and let maceratestirring occasionally. Pour i,; cup water into a pan. s1irin the sugar. andcook o,•er a medium heat for about4 minu1es.to makea syrup. Pour the orangej uiceinto a bowt.add thegelatin andstir the warm syrup into the orange juice mixing until the gelatin ha.s diss.o tved completely lin e a round or ring moldv;ith aluminum foil. Pourin the liquid to a depthof about¾ inch and chill in the refrigeratoror freezerun1i1set Arrangethe fruit on top and pourin the remaining liquid. Chil in the refrigerator for se,•eral hours until set. Turn the dessert out of the mold tosen·e.

1043

Grapegelatin GE. ~.- ''1/. 0~ U\1~.S

• 9ounoesgreengrapes • 9 ounoesblack grapes

• 1 cupgrapejuice • 2 tablespoonslemon;u;ce • ¼cup whitewine

• 1 cupsuperfine sugar • 1½ enfflo-pes (11/:tablespoons)

unflavoredpowdered gelatin

• freshmintleaves. to decorate se,.,,-es6-8

1044

Res.erne someof the grapesfor decorationandhalve andseedthe remainder.Pourthe grapejuice.lemonjuice. and wine intoapan stir in the sugar. and cook,stirnng until the sugar hasdissol\'ed. Addthe gelatin, stir constantly until it hasdissolved completely Pour a little of the liquid into a bowt and chill in the refrigerator until set Adda layer of grapes pourin a ht11emoreliquid. and chiti n therefngerator until set.Continue making layers in th~s way until all the ingredients areused up thenchilli ntherefrigeratorfor at least3hours Oecorate with thereservedgrapesand the min1lea\'eSbeforeserving.

Coffeemousse MOUSS::o::C/.F.::

• 2 ¼ cups,ni lk • ¼ aip superfinesugar • 2 eggyolks • 1 tablespooninstant ooffeepowder • 1½ tablespoonscomstarch

•3eggwMes • ¼ cup toastedo, caramelooated almonds. chopped

(optional)

• salt S@"',"M6

Pournearlyall themilk intoa pan. stirin ¼cupof the sugar andbring to a boil. Beatthe eggyolkswrththe remainingsugar andthe cof-fee powder in a bowl. Mix the cornstarch with the remaining milk in another bowl.Stir the cornstarchmiXture into the egg yolkmixture Graduallystir the hot milk into the eggyolkmixture Pourthecustard backintothe panand cook overmediumheat.stirringconstantly. for 3-4 minu1es.until thickened.Remo\'e the panfrom theheat and let cool stirnng to pre,•ent a skin forming.Whiskthe eggwhrtes wtth a pinch of salt in a d e.andry boYiluntil stiff peaksform. then gently fold them into the mixture. Divide the mousseamongindMdual bowls or champagneglassesor pour into a largeserVing bowl Chill in the refrigerator tor 2-3 hours but no longer.Just beforeserving. sprinklewith thealmonds. d using.

1045

Smallraspberryor strawberry Bavarians 8.t.VAli:OISES PEQU:~AS DE,:-RESASO F~At.18.!.IES/.S

• 2 ¾ cupsstrawberries. hulled.

or 1½ cups,raspberries,« 4 tablespoonsredcl#ranl jam •3cupsmilk

• 4-8 tablespoonssuperfine

sugar • 6 tablespoonscomst.arch

• 1/•e!'M'lope(¾ tablespoon) unflavoredpowderedgelatin •2eggwMes • salt • ¼cupwhi ppedcream,

or strawberries,or candied cherries. to deoorate

Se"WS.6 -8

1046

Processthe freshfruit ifusmgin a blenderor foodprocess.or. Pour nearlyallthe milk intoa pan,stir in 8 tablespoons sugar d usingfresh fruit or 4 tablespoons d using,am andbnngto a boil. MiKthe corns· tarchwith the remainingrrulkin a bowt Whenthe milk in the pani.s aboutto bod stir in the cornstarchmixture and cook over medium heat.stirnngconstantly.for3minutes Remo\·ethepan fromthehe.at and stir in the stra'llbernes. raspberriesor jam Put the gelatin in a small pan with3 tablespoons waterandleave to soften for 5 minutes. then heatgently. until it hasd~ssolvedcompletely. Gradua lly stir rt into the milk mo:ture.a little at a time Whisk the eggvih1teswith a pinchof salt in a d e.andry boYiluntil stdf peaks.form. then gently fold theminto the milkmixture. Rinseout indMdualmoldsviithcold water.diVtde the Bawmanamongthem. and chill in the refngerator for 2 hours.Run a knife around the edgeof e.achmold and turn the Savarian out ontoa serving dish. If theydo not comeout easily use the tip of a knife to separatethem from the edge a little s.othat air enters. Decoratewith whippedcreamor top e.achBavarian with a stra'llberryor candiedcherry

PralineBavarians 8.t.V~li:OISE OE"~.U\E

• 1 envelope (1 tablespoon) unflavoredpowderedgelatin

• 2 ¼ cups,milk • 6 tablespoonssuperfinesugar • pinchof vanil a powderor

a few&opsof vanil a extract

Pour½ cupwaterinto a small pan. addthe gelatin. andheatgently. stirnng constantlyuntil the gelatinhas.dissolved completely Pour the mdkinto another pan stir in half the sugarandthe varulla.and bnngto a boil overmedium heat Beatthe eggyolks.with the corns· tarch and remairung sugarin a bowt.Gradually stir in the hot milk. a little at a time. Pourthe custardback into the panandcook over

almonds.coarselycrushed or scant2 cupscoarsety

mediumheat stirringconstantly.for a few minutes.until thickened. Removethepanfromthe heat.let coolfor about5 minutes then stir in the gelatin. Addthe almonds.or amarettl andmix well.Standthe pana bo'IIIof cold water andstir the mixture until cold.Whiskthe eggv;Mes with a pinchof salt in a dean. dry bowluntil stiff peaks

dloppedamaretti

form.Sbfflywh11k thecream inanotherbowl.thenfold m theegg

•5eggyolks

• 1 tablespoonCOJMtarch • 11A cups,caramek: oated

•2eggwMes

whites.Gentlystir the creammO: ture into the custard Rms.e a mold

• 1 cup heavy cream

withcoldwaterand spoonthe Bavarianintoit. Chil in the refngerator for at least4 hours.until set iurn the Sa• ,arian out oi the moldonto a ser\'ing dishto serve. tf rt doesnot comeout easily.usethe tip of a krvfeto separateit fromthe edgea littl e.

• salt S@"',"M6

1047

Bavarian with peaches 8/.V.L. ~OIS~ 0~ ME.OCOTOllES (0~ LAT~)

• 2¼cups mi k

• 1/,cup superfinesugar • 4eggyol ks

· 1 te~poon corMtatch • 1 pound2 ounoescanned

peachesWIsyrup • 1t,t envelopes(1 1.4tableSf)(>Ofl)

unflavoredpowderedgelatin • 4Eggwhites

• sunfloweroil.for brushing

• salt Ser,,esC

Pour themilk intoa pan.st,ri n half thesugar. andbring toa boil. Seat the eggyolkswrththe remairung sugar and thecornstarchin a bowl Gradually st.r in the hot rru. lk. a litt 1e at a time. then pour the custard back into the pan. and cook over low heat stirring constantly. for a few minutes. until thickened Remo,·e the panfrom theheat and let cool st.1rri ngocc.asonally. Dram the peaches. reser\'ing the syrup Set a peachasidefor decoration. Put the remain i ng peachesin a foodprocessor or blender and processtoa puree Stir the pureeinto the custard Put thegelatin into a pan, add the reserved syrup he.at gently. stirring constantly until the gelatin hasdissoT\'ed completely Gradually stir it into the custard. a littl e at a time Stir the custard until it is almo.stcooled. Whisk the egg v,hiteswith a pinch of salt in a clean,dry bo'lllu ntil stiff peaks form thengently fold them into the custard. Brusha mold with oil andspoonin the Ba\·anan Chil in the refrigerator for at le.ast 3 hours. (It canbe madea day in ad~· ance) Run a round·bladed kn.-fe around the edge of the mold andturn the 8avarian out If it doesnot come out easily. us.ethe tip of a knrfeto separate it from the edge a little so that air enters. as this type of dessert sometimesforms a suction seal Decoratewith the reserved p:eachcut into Yi-edges

1048

Bavarianwith pineapple 8.t.V~li:OISE OE"

• 2 ¼ cupsmilk • 1 cup superfinesugar • 4eggyolks • 1 heapingteaspooncomstatch • 1 pound2 ouncescanned pineapplein juice

• 1 envelope(1 tableSf)OOl'I)

unflavorKIpowderedgelatin • 1 eggwhite

• lcuphe.avy«eam • sunfloweroil. for brustjng • salt Se...,es~

itt.(DEL/.-A.)

Pour the mi k into a pan, stir in half the sugar. and bring to a boil Se.atthe egg yolks with the remaining sugar and the cornstarch in a bo'III.Gradually stir in the hot milk. a little at a time. then pour the cus1ardback into the pan Cook o,•er low heat. stirring cons1an11 y. for a few minutes. until thickene d. Remo \'e the panfrom the heat. Orainthe pineapple. res.e r\'ing the juicein a pan. Addthe gelatin to the juice. and heat gently. stirring constantly unt,I rt has dis.sol\'ed completely Gradually stir the gelatin into the custard a lrttle at a bme. then standthe pan in a bowl of coldwater. andstir until the cus·tard is almostcold Chop halfthepineappleslicesintop;ecesand add to the custard. Hal\'e the remaining slicesand set aside Whtsk the eggwhitev,ith a pinchoisalt in a cle.an , dry bowl until stiff peaks form. Sbffly v,his.k the cream in ano1he r bowl. then fold in the egg wMe Reserve a little of the mi>: ture for decoration and gently fold the remamderinto the custard. Brusha Bavarian mold or a cake pan with oil.Spoonthe Ba'larianinto the mold and chi I in the refrigerator for about 10hours or o,·ernight Toser\'e, dip the baseof the mold or pan into hot water for a few secondsand then tum out the 8avarian ff rt doesnot comeout easily usethet1p oi a tmrfe to separate,t from the edge a little sothat air enters. asthls type of dessert sometimes. forms.asueton seal. Decoratewith the reser\·ed creammixture and the halfslicesof pineapple.

1049

OrangeBavarian 8/.V.L. ~OIS~ 0~ t--.!.R~.f,;JA

• 3 eggs.separated

• le...»superfinesugar • 1 envelope(1 tablespoon) unflavoredpowderedgelatin • scant laip orangejuioe,

stu inKI .4cupCointre .auor other

, 1

orange-flavored liqueur • le.ggwhite

• sunfloweroil.for brushing Se",-esC- 8

Seatthe egg yolks with the sugarfor about5 minutes,until the mix· ture is creamy. Pvt the gelat,n into a small pan add4 tabtespoons water and leave to soften for 5 minutes. then heat gently. st.1rri ng constantly until the gelatin hasdissolved completely. Combine the orange jUJ ce and liqueur and add to the egg yolk mixture. then stir in thegelatin. Whtsk all the eggwhites in a clean dry bowl until stiff p:eaksform.then gently fold them into the egg yolk mLX ture Brush a cakepan with oil and pour in the Savarian. Ctull in the refngerator for at least 6 hours. until set. ( The Bavanan will needto be stirred a couple of times to prevent the gelatin sink.ing to the bottom).To serve. turn the Bavarian onto a servingdash.ff ,t doesnot comeout easily,usethe t p of aknifeto separatert fromtheedge a little sothat air enters. asthis typ:e of dessertsometimesformsa suct,on s.eal. t,.ote The Savarian can be decorated with a little whippedcreamor somethin slicesof orange.

1050

ChocolateBavarian 8/.V.L. ~0IS~ 0~ C- 0C0LJtE

• 5ouncesbittersweetchocolate. brokeninto pieoes

• lc14>milk • 1 envelope(1 tablespoon)

unflavoredpowderedgelatin • 4eggyolks

• 1/,cupsuperfine sugar • 6 egg whites

• salt • wflippedcreamor candied

cherries.to ~orate (optional) Se".-esC-8

Put the chocolate in a pan.pour in the milk and melt the chocolate o,·er medium he.at Remo\'e the pan from the heatand let cool. Pour 4 tablespoons water into a small pan. add the gelatin and leave to softenfor 5 minutes. then heatgently. st.rring constantly. until the gelatin hasdissol\'ed completely. Gradually stir the gelatin into the chocolatemixture. a little at at .me. let cool stir·ring occa.sonally Seattheeggyolks with thesugarina bowl. then stir intothechocolate mixture. Whisk theeggwhiteswith a pinchof salt in a dean dry bowl unt.l stiff pe.aksform. then gentJyfold into the chocolate mixture Pour the Bavananinto a largemold or indi\'idual molds andchill inthe refrigerator for at least5 hours. until set To serve. turn the Bavarian out onto a s.e rving dlsh. If it doesnot come out easily. use the tip of a knife to separate rt from the edgea litt 1e so that air enters. as

thistypeof dessertsometimes formsa suctron ml Deco ratewith wh1pp:ed creamor candiedthemesifyou like

1051

StrawberryBavarian 8.t.V~li:OISE OE,:l\ES!,,S

• 41/:cupsstrawberries.hulletd • 2 tablespoonstirsch

• 3 eggs.separated • 1 cup superfinesugar

• 1 envelope(1 tablespoon) unflavoredpowdered~la tin • 3 ck"ops of redfoodcolorillg (optional)

• 1 cuphe.avycream

• sunfloweroil. for brushing

• salt Se".-es6-8

1052

Reserve a fewstrawbe rriesfor decorationandprocesstheremain· der in a blenderor foodprocessor.Mix the strawberrypureewith the kirsch.Seatthe eggyolkswrththe sugarin a bowluntil pale and fluffy Put the gelatininto a small pan. add4 tablespoonswater. and he.atgentJystirringconstantlyuntil rt hasdissol\'edcomplete l y Stir the strawberrypureeinto the eggyolkm1xture.thengraduallystir in the gelatin a little at a time Stir in red foodcoloring. if using.Whlsk the eggwhiteswithapinchof salt in acle.an ,dry bowluntil stdf peaks form. S1iffly whisk the creamin anotherbowl fold half the cre.im into the strawberrymixtureand then fold in the egg whrtes Brush a cakep,anv;ithoil. spoonin the8avarian. and chill in the refngerator for at le.a.st 4 hours. mhl set Toser\'e, tum the Bavarian out onto a ser\'ingdish. If it doesnot comeout easily usethe tip of a knife to separate rt fromthe edgea little sothat air entersasthis type of desser t somet,mesforms a suctionse.alPipe Cheremainingcream over thetop ands.desof the Bavariananddecoratewiththereserved strawberries

Bavarianwithnougat 8.t.V~li:O ISEOE·u~li:O\' o:: JIJOll.t.

• 1 envelope(1 tablespoon) unflavoredpowdered~la tin • 9 ounces nougat (see r~ipe 1080). cut Wltopieces • 4 eggs. separated

• 2-J tablespoonsrum

• salt Se".-es6

Put the gelatininto a smallpan add 4 tablespoonswaterand leave to soften for 5 minutes then heat gently. stirring constantly until the gelatin has dlssol\'ed completely RemO\'ethe pan from the he.at Mashthe nougatwith a fork. then mix with the eggyolks and rum to makea smooth cream.Gradually stir in the gelatin a little at a tune. Whiskthe eggwhiteswith a pinchof s.altin a clean. dry bowl until stiff peaksform. then fold them into the nougatere.am. Pour the Bavanan into a ring moldandchill in the refrigerator for .atle.a.st 4 hours. until set (The dishcanbe madea dayin ad'lance) Toserve. turn out the Bavarian. tf it doesnot comeout e.as 1ly.use the tip of a knifeto separate it fromthe edgea little so that air enters. asthis typeof dessertsomet,mesformsa suctionseal. Sen·ewith tuifes. or

languesdeChat (seerecipe 943)orotherrookies

1053

Raspber ry Bavarian 8/.V.L.~OIS CE,:-R/.M6U~SA

• 3cupsraspberries

• 2 tablesp.oonsraspberryliqueur • 3 eggs.separated · 1cup superfinesugar • 1enwlope(1 tablespoon )

unflavored powderedgelatin • 3 dropsof red food colorillg (optiooal) · 1cupheavycream • smftoweroil for brushing • salt • whippedcream,to ~orate

Set•,-es6

Set aside a fe'Nraspberriesfordecorationand beat the remainder to a pureeMth a woodenspoonil a bowl.Stir in the i Queur B-e.Jt the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl until pale and fluffy then stir into the raspberrypuree Put the gelatin into a smal pan. add 4 tablespoonsv,·aterand lea\'eto softenfor 5 minutes then heat gently.stirring constantly . until the gelatinhasdissolvedcompletely Remove fromthe heatand stir into the raspberry mixture. then stir in the foodcoloring. ifusing \Vh~sk the eggwhiteswitha pinchof salt in a clean. dry bowluntil strff pe.aksform Sbfflywhiskthe cream in anotherbowl.fold the creaminto theraspberrymi>: ture. then fold in the eggwhites.Brusha mold with oil andspoon in the Bavarian Chil in the refngeratorfor at le.a.st 4 hours. until set Tosen·e. turn the Savananout If it doesnot comeout easily. usethe tip of a knife to separate,t fromthe edge a little so that air enters. as this type of dessert sometimes forms a suction se.alPipecreamover the Bavarian and decoratert with thereservedraspberries.

105 4

Vanilla ice cream 8 SCUT Gl.l,C~

• butter, fOJgreasing • 1 tablespooneotMtarch

• scant1cupmi k • scant1cup superfinesugar • pinchof vanil a powderor

a few&opsof vanil a extract • 6 eggs.separated

• fewdropsof yeUowfood cokwing

(optional)

• salt Se"w'ES.6 -8

Gre.Js.e a metal mold with butter then chill it in the freezer. Mix the cornstarchwith 2- 3 tablespoons Oi the milk in a bowl Pour the remarnin,gmilk into a pan wrth5 tablespoonsof the sugar and the vanilla and bnng to a boil. Stir in the cornstarchand cook over mediumhe.atstirring constantly for 3 minutes. RemO\'f the pan from the heatand let cool slrghtfy Beatthe egg yolkswith 5 table· spoonsof the remaining sugar in a bowl. Gradually stir in the milk mix-ture alittle at a time then stirin the foodcolonng,ifusmg Whisk the eggwhiteswith a pinchof salt ina clean. dry bowl unblstiff peaks form. then fold in the remaining sugar. Gentfy fold the egg whites into the custard. then pour into the prepared mold. and put in the freezerfor about3 hours. Remove the moldfrom the freezerabout 5 minutes.before serving. Carefulfy run a round·bladedknifearound the mold and turn the iceere.amout ontoa s.ef'Vlng dish. t.ote. Theicecreamcan beput intoindividual glass.or foilmolds..

1023 Custard andsyrupdeS92rl souffles 1027 Orange

mousse Yalhladyfingers 1033 Chocolate

1042 FruRgelatin 1045 Smallraspberry orstrawberry bavarians 1068 Figcompote wRhredYnne andspices 1076 San tiagotorte christmas cookies 1077 Traditional

1023

1027

1045

105 5

Lemonsherbet S0~6£TEO::L MOIi

· 1cup superfinesugar

• gratedzest aodjlice of 4 large lemons • 2 eggwtiites • salt

Pour21/4 cupswaterinto a pan. stir in the sugar.andbringtoa rolling boil.thencookfor 10-12minutes.until syrupy.Removethepanfrom the heatandlet cool.Stir the lemonzestand juiceintothe coldsyrup, pourintoa treezerprootcontainer. andput into thefreezer. Whenthe m.1xture beginsto freeze.whiskthe eggwhrtesYiitha pinchof salt in a cle.an dry bo'III until stiff peaks form. then fold them into the mixture Returnto thefreezerandfreezeuntil firm. Servein sundae glassesaccompanied bylanguesde Chat(seerecipe943) or other cookies.ifyoulike.

1056

Orangemarmalade ME~t.1ELl,Q,l, 0~ r-.~.R/.f,;JA, (Es·1to lf-lG.ES)

• 4o ra,ves. about2 lApounds.halved • 2 lemons.halved • 2 1A poundssuperfinesugar

Ma,.et31a.':,'?Ja°S

1057

Squeeze theorJngesand lemons.reservingtheseeds. Tietheseeds in a squareof cheesecloth . Cut the zestsintojulieM e strips prefe· rablywitha mandoline. Mixthe zestsw,th the juiceandadd the bag of seedslet standfor 24hours.Pour the m.1xtu re into a prese rving panor largepan pourin 4 cupswater.andbring to a boil. lowerthe he.atand simmergently. stirringoccason.ally.for 1hour.Remo ve the pan fromthe heat andlet standfor 24 hours Stir the sugarinto the juicemixtureandheat.st1rnng until the sugarhasdissolvedSkim off the foamthat nsesto the surfaceands,mmerfor l ¼-1 ½hours. until thetemperat ure measures 220iFon a candy thermometerand the marmaladeha.sreache d settingpoint Totest for settingpomt. put a teaspoonof themarmalade on a cold saucer andcoolqUickly Whenthesurfacehasset.push,t withyourfinger; 1f 1t wrinkles. the marmalade is at settingpoint Remo ,·e the panfromthe heatand let coolshghtly thenremoveand discardthebagof seeds.andladlethe marmalade intosterilizedglas.s ;arsandseal.

Tomato jam ME~t.1Et!,0.t. 0~ TOMA ES

· 2 ¼ poundswry ripe fleshy

tomatoes. seededandcut Wltopieces

• 1 pound 2 oun~s

superfinesugar • ;iiceoUlemon Ma-es3 latEejit"'S

Thisis anunusualreclJ)e that isidealfor peoplewho havea \'egetabl e gardenOncethejam is made,t doesnot tasteliketomato. Putthe piecesof tomatointo a skilletandcookO\'er mediumheat.stIrnng occa.s ,onaily and breaking them up with the s,de of the spoon, for 15minutes.Passthe tomatoesthrougha foodmill or foodprocessor and pour the pureeinto a pan.St.r in thesugarand lemonj uiceand cookoverlowheatfor about30 minutes. dependingonho'Nthickyou like yourjam. Bearin mind rt will th.ckena it tle moreasit cools.

1058

Quincejelly MEVBRltlO

• 3 ¼ pound.sripe quinces. ooredandcut into pieces

• 2½ pouncksuperfiiesugar f.f.a,esJ-! 1a"S

1059

Put the quincesinto a pan and addjust enough cold water to cover Cook over medium heatfor about l hour. until the quinceshave sof· tened Pa.s.sthem through a food mill or food processor into a d e.an pan and stir in the sugar Cook. stirnngoccasionally,for 30 minutes more Pour the quincemixture into a squareof cheesec loth Bring the cornersof thesquaretogether andsuspendovera bowl to dram l et drain for about 20 minutes then pourthe liquid into glassjars or bowls. andletcoolands.et.Run a round·bladedkn.de around theedge of the container andturn out theJellyoncert is.cold and set

Flamedquinceswith red currant jam MEVBRltlCSCON J~.t':J0~ GlitSE.l.f,ya:L'.ME!,OOS

, 4q uinces. peeled.cored. andthickly s.li~d

• 3 tablespoonssupHfinesugar • 3 tablespoonsredcurrantjam • ¼ cup rum or brandy

Sef•1es6

Put the quinces into a pan. add water to cover. cover the pan with a lid, andcook over mediumheat for about 35 minutes. until softened Orain off someof thewaterand sprinkle the sugarinto thepan Return it to the he.at andcook for 10-15 minutesmore. RemO\'e the trwt from the syrup that willhave formedandset aside. Just before

serving.put theslicesof quinceonto a serving dishandputthep m in the center Pour the rum or brandyinto a pan andhe.at for a few seconds. then ignite1t. andcarefully pour rt over the quinces. Spoon the sptnt over the frUit while thealcohol is still burning Servebefore the flamesdte down.

1060

Sweetenedsweetpotatoes 8.t.n.-.t.sEli DULCE

• 2¼poundsswettpotatoes.

Pffled

· 1¾ cups,superfiiesugar • 1 cinnamonstick

• 1 cup light cream(optional)

5e...,-es6

1061

ff the sweetpotatoesare fat. halve them lengthw 1s.e Put theminto a pan. pour in just enough water to co,·er. and add the sugar and cinna·mon.Cover the pan w,th parchment paper that has been cut in a cir·cle to fit snugly insidethe pan sealwrth a i d and bnng to a boil. then lowerthe heat.and cookuntil a thick syrup forms. Pour the mo:tureinto a bowl and let cool. Sen·eimmediatelywith cream.d you like. or keep in the refngeratorfor 3- 4days

Pruneswith red wine CIRUELAS "~.S.t.S CONVl"-0Tlf-1 TO

· lcupwine

• generous1/,cupsuperfiiesugar • 1 cinnamonstick • 1 pound2 oun~s pitted prunes. soaked in warmwater for

3- 6hol#s andclrained

Se".-es6

1062

Pour l cup water and the wine into a pan,stir in the sugar.and add the cinnamon and prunes. There should be enough liquidin the pan to co,·er the prunesbut d not add a little morewine or a mixture of water and wine Cookover mediUmheat for about 30 minutes. Remove the panfrom the heat.remO\'eanddiscard the cmnamon . put the mixture into a bowl.and let cool.Serve cold, but do not chill in the refrigerator.

Pear compotewith redwine P.:R/.SENCCM'OTA CON\'l"-0 T

• 9 largepears • 4 t.ablespoMsuperfinesug-ar

• 2 cinnamonsticks • 3 cups,red wine

• 1 cup sweetenedwhippedcream

,ro

Peelthepears then cut intofour.and core them. Put themintoa pan sprinklewrththe sugar. addthe cinnamon, and pour in enough wine to co,·er. Co,·erand cook over medium heatfor about 20 minutes. until the pears are tender. Spoonthe pears into a bowl and let cool. Sen·ev,ith wtupp:edcream if youlike. offered separately.

(optional)

Se".-es6

t-.ote tf the pears are fairly small. lea\'ethem v,hole. Peel them but le.ave the stalks intact Allow 2 small pears per serving Thecream can bereplacedwith custard(seerecipe1008).

0

( S'O

1063

Flamedpeaches ME.OCOTC\ES Fl.t.t.1£.AOCS

• 2 cylindrical bcea:Irolls

Prehe.atthe grill Cutthe roUs into threeandplacea peachhalf on

• 6 canned or bottl ed pe.acil

eachp:ecewrththe cavity uppermost.Pressdownlightlyon thefruit so rt is firmly positioned f ill the ca,·ities n the peach eswith red· currant or raspberry jamand then put them into a flameproofdish Sprinkle 'Mth icingsugarandcookbnefly under the grill. Meanwhile. heattherum in a saucep.:t"I for a few secondsRemo ,·e thedish from the gnll. ignite the rum ,31dcarefully pour it overthe peaches. Keep spooning it OOckover the peachesuntil the flames die dc,,m ff possible. ser\'e whiletherum ls still burning

halvesin syrup. drained • 6 teaspoonsredcurrantor raspberryjam

• icing sugar.for sprinkling • 175ml/ 6flozrurn

Ser•,-esC

106 4

Flamedpeacheswith vanillaice cream MLOCOTC\:ES FLAt.10.0CS CO\JHLAOOOEVAlilt.~.

• 6 c-anned or bottled pe.adl

halvesin syn..,. drained

•l½cupsrum • l cylindric-albread rolls. cr1.Gts removed

• 2¼ cups,vanilla icecream

se,.,,-es6

106 5

Putthepeachhatvesintoa skillet.Heat therumina panfor afewsec· onds igniteit. and carefullypour it O\'er the peaches . Keep spooning the rum o\'er the frUtt Hal\·e the rolls and scoop out a lrttle of the center from eachhalf to makea cavity. When the flameshavedied down.placea pe.ach half ineach pieceof rol with the C-3\'ity up.Press down gently so the peach is firmlypositioned in the roll fill the CJ\'• rtieswith the icecreamand spoon a little of the s.auce from theskilfet overthe top Serveimmediately.

Peacheswith white wineand orangegelatin ME.OCOTCMSCCl-l\'II-IC BL.il.l-lCOYGE.mf-1~ OEll,l..lmw,

• 6 large peaches.peeled. pitted. andcut into fourtM

• 1 cupsuperfinesugar • 3 cups wtlitewine • ¼ packet(2¼ounces)orange gelatin Se"WS! - ~

ft is better to prepare this dish a day in advance Put the peaches into J pan in a single layer.Sprinkle them w,th the sugar and pour the wine over them Sring to a boil. lower the heat. and simmer gently for about 30 rru:nu tes until softened. Remo\'ethe pan from the heat.lift out the p:e.achesviitha slotted spoon and put theminto a servingbowl.Returnthepanto theheatand cook theliquid forabout 15minutes.until syrupy.Transfer¾ cup of the syrup to a pan and dissolve the orangegelatin in it Stir in anothergenerous 1cup of the syrup andmo:v,·ell.Pour the minure over the p:e.aches . let cool,and then chill in the refrigerator before ser\'irtg

1066

Peachescookedwith zabaglione ME.OCOTC\ES COCIJOS COiiS.Ht.'t'Oli

• 8 ripe peaches.peeled

S)Tup:

· P.t cupssuperfinesugar • 1vanil a bean. halvedlengthwise Zabaglione: • 4eggyolks • 1.4cupconfectionerSsugar

Makethesyrup. Pour2¼ cupswaterinto a pan. stir in the sugar. addthe,,aru.11.a . andbringtoa bod Addthepeachescover.and cook for 5 minutes.Remove thepanfromthe heatandle.a ve the p:e.aches to cool in the syrup Makethe zabaghone Be.atthe egg yolkswith the sugar and Madeirain a he.atproofbowl s.etovera pan of barely simmenng waterunti thickand cre.amyRemO \'e the bov,Ifrom the he.atandcontinueto beatuntil the mi>:turecools.Drainthe pe.aches anddi\'idethemamongindMdualplates.Spoonthe zabaglioneover them. decoratewith raspbernes andalmonds. and serve.

• scant1cup Madeirawine or otherfortified wine

• raspberries • slicedafmonck

1067

t,.ote Tomakethe peacheseasierto p:eel.submergethem in boding waterfor 8 seconds and then put them into cold water Theskin Yiill then peel off moreeasily.

Flamedbananaswith vanillaice cream Pl .ii.WiOS Fl.il.1.1£ ~.DOS CONHE. ~.DOD : V.il. llill. ~-

• 6 bananas

• juice ofl lemon • 2 ¼ cupssunfloweroil • ¾cup rum

• 2 ¼ cupsvanilla ice cr eam

• oonfectio ner'ssugar, for sprinkling

Ser•,-esC

Peelthe bananas and cut them in half lengthw1s.e.Sprinkle with the lemonjuice to pre\·ent discoloration Heatthe oil in a deep-fryer or deepskillet to350 - 375' For until a cubeof day-oldbreadbrownsin 30 seconds.Addthe bananasand cook until goldenbrown. working in batchesif necessaryRemovewith a slotted spoon. drain v,·ell. and set asideon a plate Heatthe rum in a small pan for a few seconds ignite rt and carefully pour it O\'erthe bananas Spoon the rum bact O\'erthem until the flameshaved:ed down. Workingquickly so that neither the rum nor the bananashave t,me to cool. di\'ide the ice creamamongindi\'idual plates. top Yiiththe bananahalves crossed O\'ereachother. and spoon the rumoverthem.Spnnklewith confect,one(s sugarandser\'e.

1068

0

Fig compotewith redwineand spices COMFO -.t.0~ H GOSCCI-I\!110· 1,ro YESPECl!,,S

· 3 tablespoonsredwiie • 2 large pieces of fflWlly parKI orange rind • 3 tablespoonscaster sugar • 1 cinnamonstick

· 6dows • 1 sprigfr esh rin t

• 24 smallfigs « 12large figs. Pffled

Se".-es .i-6

Pour135ml/ 4 ½floz water andthe wine into a saucepanadd the orangennd. sugarcinnamon. clO\'es and mint Jnd simmerfor 10 minutes Add the figs andcook overa low heatfor 6 m.nutes. Utt out the figs with a slotted spoon and put them into a serving bowl Simmerthe cookingliquid for a further 15minutes thenst ramrt into a dish. reserving theorange rind,and leave to cool. Cutthe orange rind into \'ery thin strips and add to thecompote Pour the sauceover the figsandchill in the refrigerator.

1069

Cointreaufoam ES'JMOSOOECOllrREW

• 4 eggs.separatKI • 1 h cupsuperfine sugar • 2 tablespoonsCointreau • scant½ cup heavycream

1070

Put the egg yolks and sugar into a pan andbeat over towheat unt,I the mi>:ture is smoothandeven. but do not let it boil. Remove thepan fromthe heatand add the liqueur; the mix ture willthi~ en immed,a· tely l et cool Whtsk the egg whites in a cle.an,dry bowl until stiff peaksform Stiffly whtsk the cream in another bowl Fold the egg whrtesand creaminto theegg yolk mix ture. OMde the foamamong glassesor sundaedishesand chill in therefrigerator.

Caramelizedpearcompote COM'O-,.DEPE~~sc~tt.M:.LZ~O.l,

• ¼ cup sliverKIalmonds

• juice of V:lemon • 1'.4cupsconfecliooer'ssuga.r , 4pears • 2 tablespoons (1.4stick) butter.

cut intosmallpieces

1071

• 4 cupsmitk

• 2¼cupsconfectioner'ssugar

• 4teaspoo,nsgreen tealeaves • S egg yolks

• tadyfingers. to serw

Toastthe almonds in a small ski let. stirnng frequently, for a few minutes until golden and fragrant but be careful not to let them burn. then remo,·e from the heat.and setaside. Pour 5 tablespoons water and the lemon iuiceinto a pan. stir in the sugar. andcook over tow heatuntil golden. Meanwhile. peel. core. and dicethe pears. Add the pearsandbutter to the caramel. cover. and cook for 15minutes Divide the compote amongindividual pots or dishesand sprinkle with thealmonds. let cool slightly before ser\'ing.

Greentea custard "~-u,1.s ~.lH \'Eli.OE Reserve 1tablespoonof the milk. Pour the remainder into a pan. stir in the sugar andbring to a boil. RemO\'e thepanfrom the heat stir in the tea and let steepfor 30 minutes. Strain througha cheesec l oth· lined strainerinto a bovdand let cool completely Be.at the eggyolks with thereserved milk in a heatproof bowt.Add the steeped mdkand set over a pan of barely simmeringwater Cook,whiskingconstantly. until thi~ ened Remove the pan from the heatand pourthe custard into a mold. l et cool. thenchill inthe refngerator unt,I readyto serve Servew,th ladyfingers.

Grapeandorangecompote

1072

COMFO -.t.0~ UW,S Y10,RA.f,;JAS • 200g/7oz muscatefgrapes.

Put the grapesand orangesinto a heavy-basedsaucepan.mix.well and add thesugar andraisins Cook O\'er a towheatfor about l hour.

• 2 « anges.thiNy sliced

untilthe compotethickens Remove thepan from the heatand le.ave

• 100g/ 3½ozcaste r sugar

to cool. then serve accom paniedby the cheese

......

• 100g/ 3½oz raisins • 4 Wldiviugh et cal.: nixtwe sticking,ne·mwas!-bi!kir~ pansaodmoltlswrthdelerger:

Cleantherras thCfCfJ,ihlyas DOSsi:bl: wrthpaoer!11S els« aclcit then rir.se th;arr ii clean■ .: :er.and dry

:tetOJgli'J Balingpansa.idmolds.greasing;

Whengreasiflipansaodnoldsv,·ith b.1lter,pu: a p;nofbu::~ in~oth: pan ornoldaods:andi: son:'•to:re• arm. m.¥ it.I! s:ov;,tcp' or exarr.pJ ;,, Whenit hasrr=':ea .1s;,a Im.isl"!ospreac it al

overth ;, base ancsides.thenMronl. S•ee:b.1tlerisIles: 'orgeasir.gas~ is Im litelytoburn.

BEEtThis•illr e:aini!scct« if«>0ted wrthi:s s:alktit.act

Burntsw.YsIas ::-•burr.sar.ds:icJ.;s :o tt,;, baseo' thepan.p.1! :t.;;pan in:o acon:ainer•ith a litle vir,;;garano

IE:s:aOOfot a •tile.n..ntransfer :h;, s!e-•loa deanpan.Yo11to JI st:ra!li!lg in theburntparl. CauliHo•ff Tona):Esur;,ca!Ai:ov,·e1 st.aysverywhitU!d!l a genercosdash o: nik !otheoookingwat~. Topre-,en : rt"ondisinl.Ega :ing a!Jd ~cdyc: tnel.!strr..irrJ! e. SeealsoO:lm Custardl'c-Jst.arccurdEsdurir-i coor,ili.pourrtintoarolt"r: 1)3!1 et OOto·laodb e.rtvi&oro JsJy•i~ha b3loonatiskll'l!ilcold.· he IQuid wi orcecgatico11e togelt":r ar.d besrrooth. Oishtoa'el~« , eri)eslhat use dist:o,,els tosutciergenea:.e!c•. icisinpcnan!to Jsea '\our-sac-\• s:yle cistclc:horsewrallar.rsc' ct":esecloth.;s !oselsna!!ec' :erry clc:h orsirrilar•ill she!!lib.rson 1t.efood Egg-s. boi1 ir.e Topmenl eggs frnrr erccking•t -= n :t..yareboiled_pierce :t.es.nelh;i!tan:edl.>« 11inal the rCU'ld~

E.gg-s . peeling· o mckehard• ccol:Ed eggseasi:rlo shell,a!!d 1-2:cbl:spoor.sc'sal: tothe coo~v,.rt.er E.gg-s . raw-nes.e uo carryharm'ul br.eria, suchcs salrrooellaar.d c:t":r 'oodborneilln esses. ·oa.'cio ' oodp:iisooillg, J!isinl)Cfianlto i'.aodle, cookar.ds:ore eggsprcpmy, especidlly v.h~eycuogchildren. .:he el!!erlyotcregr..cn! v.-011 eoare ccown e!!.At.va)'$u"JSOJlal :as!: .bJI so11 e ar: pressurecco•mare allrulcne-third Ile: r-r t:hanc:hers..s..n:-CM'Hoi is..a c'ccm'!r:iooalcodtir.gtines.. ~« near Hawrl:ssoilmad: 'ron-s.ur=,ner e>:a.'T!pl: pota:cesv,·hich taE 30 s.:: !is..!isagoodall•OOr!)OSl'!Oil. ninu:es codtec cor'len :icr-..alfy ■ill S.Ji!abl: ' or:ryirlgancdeep-frying b: doneinaOO JI lOninu:esin tne thoughcaremus!b;,tal;~ as itcan pressurecco•* cm;,d ccnes. lli.rna: htlhtenoerabres..\'=-5 =:abJ: topres.sur e oilis.a !lent!ri c.ifererrtr:fineo oh ecr ac:ed 'ror.ia nunberof strJrces.. Refrigi.rator,cleaningWasttne S.Jchas s.Jn,.owersee~_rapes.eed-s. lining• ell'Iii!' a dampclc.:h anca colloos.e eds.sa'flo■"er s.eeds.corn. littl:babrlgso!ia,th~rinse i! ai:h s.O)·beans.,aod !leanu!s.Ifis.oftm aro:t,;;r danpdothv,=8arlrlgOU'! in tn., ct;a.a!les!oil.good kt fr)ingand urn u :i:r. "'.'he r;,frigera:orwlltn:,...n deep.ff)'irti.bJI i:isro: thehealtnies:: b: 11 er'ectlydeanwithoode:ergen: Candaorr a!les. :: !!cilis.thelowe s: sn-e!lstotaintthe'ooc. ins..:ura:ed'ats ar.disnid in f;a•,cu RiceTo~ ;,surethe grainsslay anoaron-...a. alsomakir.g i!a good se11ar a:: c Jtilg cooking. a!!c3-4 all•PJ(J)tls. ;,cil Oweoilisa heal:hy (.Jo!ls. d lerroofJic.ar.oe·,eryl cu!ls.c' oil.highinrTOOOtrisa1wa :eo' atsar.d ccdtir.gwa!si pdyph~cls,aodis goookt s.a-J!ei:ng ancs5r-fr)"ni.ii co11 es inav.uie:)'o' Saltyste.-s I )'.1w esand n-Jchs..r:toa st= ·•.ad!!aco'-'>I:c' aron-as.frcnnikl t:, s.:rCfti. ~rtraslCesof11 eeleoro'«po:alo.abou: 4:. ,'igin di•1 ;,oil«in-es 1romthe first inct tniclt.le.n-e!he s:ewov*lcw 11res.sifti cl ihe oln-es andis.cor.sidereo t .;;a! fot 30 minrl!s..tt ,;;n renO\e ano tot.aveasul)=l'icf HawY to 01t,;;r din dsc.ardtne11ota :oslices..asthey11oill oil.:to.Jghi"! sdis:inctr,e tas:;,cao b: t..a·,e absorbedthe exc;,s.s. s.all SirOlli. tisbest forsalads,!laslas4od l,,nc.:t ,;;rme:t.:d is:o a!!d1teaspoon n-...arir.ad es. Punu~or grcundru!oil is sugar.s:trini di :o Ulesaoce n-..ade frompressed !lear.u!st:, !lro(bte lt'l!il dis.sdvec. It willimprove lh: a clear.njlc.oilthald0:snolabsortior :-a·10rnotiuably. trans'er !a•,crs.tis gooditlrs.al.acl-s.

Spongecat e t ;,.11-e sponge cal.;,s.to coolii tneir panuntilj:istWlfm or al:nos.: cok!.-heoturnoJI onloaaire rac,;tocoolcon!lle!~. S!Jnb erries f)OJha--. e loaast sirawberries. coi: q.Jekfyand hiJI1t..en af.erward:o pre·,'!rtaa:er 'ror.i getti'tiinto:h: 'ruilandc,;;s:rornii'!s delitat':Ha\U Toerhanceth~ Ha\U.l)U'! tne sirawberriesin:oa glas.s.or d1inaboat s!lrinl:I : then 11o·i!t a I: :I:sugar.and pcurin::attespoonllalsamic or sherry W---5a1 for;,.3eh2¾potri!is.strav,·l) er• ries.Ctjllin therefriga-a:or.s!irig occa~ally. SautNtgvEietatt es.' v=-E: ~t.abJes. (11 eas,beans,pi:ces o'ca rrot.e:c.)are tob;,cod:edinbu:!*· pu: th;,_11 ilto the skillet;irs: a.ndpJI :t.;;l!IJ!:er on :cp.l'i theyare :otecooted inolpu: ~ cilin firsU,;;a1itailtl: anothenacd th.avege:allles. Sweeteningdesserts Forfit.;,p.t!idir-&. adcsugar:oth: ri(e aft;,1 ij hasb:en cookec.ForpJreedco11polE s. acd S.Jiaftotne 'n.ila'tErhasbeencoolol:d ancpassedthrtr.Jgta iooon.ill TomollO@$ Tonal.:.on-..a :ces usier to !leeI.use averyshar!ll:nife:on-al.e across inth: encopp)Si!sthe s:• tnenl)U'! :hen inloviicrously tolr ,i aa:er.anolea\-ekt 1mirJ.rt=.. Orail and i'.!lnedia:el)' refrest!l"ld er cokl•a:er sott ': fleshrenains irm Yeast Th.ml\?s7J.9 aooli!!O - ll almonds ahoOOaooch«da:e wMrJ!st079 ahoOO00.Jgtnrts94.7 ahoOOpastries9ll aho00pas:ry959 ahoOOsablebiscuits9&.2 bal;.dapplesv.i.:halr">onc's 971 chi:keo1;msoup156 ha,;,aitl alnonc garlit anov.ti:e win=sauceO:0 l.!1er .d ccf'eeandl.!d)·fir.gff dessert993 ir.ier!ctie963 li:11: al:ncndcakes948 mar!4)3llcak e 1C75 nouga::cso !Ir alfflBa-rarians 104.5 rabbitcooked■ithdl\·-es aodalnonc's736-78&.0 rice !lucdniwitr.crean aodalnonc'st029 RGnesrosa-Jte1:2 Sar:iago:om896-7.1076 1£atnepastries9L5 trcut ■itht-_..n,¥'>0nc's.

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Malagaaine 73t Amrican!lakedpotatoes26! A~Jicanrr---=carcci 271 A~...ricaMfyle ~cd(~ •ith ten.noes.Cogr_..c and•b:e wine620

anchovies broiedt-.errings v.111" anchovies SJ.O bJ\ur and anchovy sa-Jt=95 cardoot1s v.l~h redb:Hp::!l!)er .nd archo\'ies3o0 eggsminosaJ.83 pot;:ceswilt"rr---=:,omaise tcnaloe"S. ar.dar~t-o,'ies 268 so4.!li.U:I det.;meracan pll'la738

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ba«:wl aodct,;;esel:m:q-Jit-.ne 56

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c!emadecerros l!l c!emid.a c.1re!u1e:Gs.gam!w oca1er~sl62

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c!emadecesc.ro!I coor.t.aycury ~5l c!emadepesc~oM.rnel':l.·n,o 165 c!emade;,a~sl3l c!emacas!?'Era :cu c,emac.?S:e\era (p3,r are!~~ mo crin:.ecaramel

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classiccrirrecararrsl1Cl6 cccm-JIcrerrecara.'tlel 1019 crirncara.11el mac,;; v.1:hccntlense!! rrjlk1018 crirncara.11elsi.rp!ise :tl7 crirncara11eldh«an,;-: j:iice:020 crern cara11el • i!hpears1015 creP?slOO : crep.sf.lleo•itluean:004 crepesv,i!I'eustarcfillrti 1003 ::a,,,t,eedcre11es 1005 saocefurcre11essuzete 1002 sil,'erdo11¥ parcakes:006 c,~cesCam?adas t005 c,~cesre•.~nasc',ecre.lfla :003 c,~cesre•~nasc'e ~talCOl cm•eltes .;reanoft"itlf.1t" s-o11p l2.S-9:01 cm:ttear.dasparagus :an656 s..,..alsoshti.'Tlp Clia:idli!Sde ner,a!80 CliadiL'as e.lf!pmadas cooarrc.t b.!anco9~ c,e,q.:.