Select Historical Costumes: Compiled From the Most Reliable Sources (Classic Reprint) 1331920035, 9781331920038

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I N TR O D U CT I O N E

.

e ff ort to se ek

expression in cos tume is one of the most universal in nature Nature

.

strews along the se a

shore shell s of an infinite vari e ty of tints apparently with no ,

other obj e ct than to please the eye ; she scatters flowers of countless hues and delicate combinations of colors over the hills and meadows from it would se em ,

,

,

the simple love of adornment ; she decks her animal creation in furs and plumage mar k e d and painte d by a fancy revelling in the delight of its own freedom

.

Man forms

no ex ception ; the instinct in

him

to array

hims e lf in varie d colo rs and draperies is part of the system m o ny with

her

of

Nature

and is in har

,

an d

creative

a

fre e spirit

.

The philosopher th e n who despises dress ,

,

o verdo e s the character he ass um es

No r

.

need we anapology for catering as we ,

do

in the volume here pres e n t ed to the fancy ,

of the masquerader or to actor and

artist

th e t astes

of the

.

While the instinct of which we sp eak is an attribute of every age it is natural that ,

as in

outh we more y

e

specially rej oice in

a sp ontaneous self expression so in those -

,

epochs of history when a distinct p eople or group of pe oples is passing through its p eriod of youth there sh o uld be exhibite d ,

an extraordinary fl o w e r i n g

tume

.

-

out of

gay

co s

Such an epoch was that of the VI

Middle A ges —a period

hen society was

w

divide d and subdivide d into orders and classes s e cular and religious to a deg r e e ,

,

ne v er befo re witnessed and when the rank ,

and circumstance of life were d enoted

d an

de corate d by every fashion of garb and d e vice that a glo w ing fancy could i n vent

,

It is there fore principally to this great p eriod that we have had re course i nselect in g

material for this work

In

m aking

this selection

.

W hil e ‘

,

aiming at

as great variety as is consistent with

the

limits of the work we h ave given prefer ,

ence to those costumes that combine

th e

quaintness of the past with an artistic grace and beauty sin ce in the mas q uerade pe ople ,

,

of taste will

s

,

e ek to reproduce not that

which is simply grotesque but that which ,

is beautiful as well as novel

.

Wh ere ex

p e nse is a matter of consideration the mas q u e r ad e r

will do well to obs e rve that many

of the styles here represented thou gh rich ,

in appe arance may be made at le ss cost ,

than is usually paid for the hire of

a single

dress to the professional c o stumer whose ,

tawdry goods have neither the

r e co m

m en

dation of cleanliness nor historic truthful

ness —Whose H enry VIII and the like need to be

”

“

,

known Th e

oan of A rc

J

,

,

to be

l car d e d a p fl

.

E ditor bei n g also solicitous as an ,

A ctor to subserve the interests of his pro ,

has f e ssi o n ,

had an

ey e

to the choice of such

costumes as are suite d to the stage and at ,

the same time have be en rarely or never “

brought out Venetian

.

The costume of

“

The

was sele cte d by Mr

B ooth on the revival of the

.

Y oung

E dwin

M erchant of

Venice

at the late Wint er G arden

,

tre — the only occasion

,

The a

in this country

,

reat drama was brought u p on g

when that

the stage with strict historic truthful ness of costume Th e

that the

.

E ditor is als o encouraged to bel i eve

t he

work will be found acceptabl e to

artist ,

as a ff ording him material help

in re produci ng on his canvas the life of the past

,

as

well as rich suggestion for the

elab o ration of the

w

ork of pure fancy

.

In proof of the historic fidelity of the style s here presented it will only be ,

meces

s ary to state that they are selected from the gr eat works of Kretschmer Inthe

,

Bo n nard H erb e

F errario ,

n oth ers

a d

,

of

,

equal authority

text which accompanies the plat es

we have not in every instance sought

to

give detailed descriptions as the exe cutio n ,

1X

T

IN R OD

UCTI ON

of even the most delicate features of dress has be en well looked to by the artist

.

A s articles re quisite for the ma k ing

-

u

p

of such costumes as those we illustrate can only be procured of certain parties who are ,

probably unk nown by many into whose hands this book may fall we shall perhaps ,

,

,

do good service in giving a list of those to whom the theatrical profession gener ally resort No

Messrs

.

Shannon

.

Maide n lane

32

Miller

,

Crane

,

g old

and silver trimm ings together with

.

,

furnish the

,

the cloths

swords

,

tableau lights Taylor No ,

.

&c

,

96

feathers

,

M essrs

.

,

ornaments Vanderlip

.

B owery supply the hosiery ,

tights body dresses sy mmetries &c -

J

,

,

,

ohn O Do n ne ll ’

,

,

Mr

.

,

.

Bowery is the charac

260

,

ter boot and shoe maker for the pro fession ; and Mr J P D euel .

.

.

,

1 24

A mity street the ,

the

D e Sp otte 3 3 6 wigs beards

st

age

r p

ope rties

.

,

,

tho u gh coun tr y

Y e rk

all" in

when o r d e r e d .

mask s

,

The se p artie s

.

se

d n

,

A Fas hi o

nLA

DY

R AN"

or

.

A G E R M AN No B LE, A PE AS ANT

or

G ELLTH AL

TH E

E NG LI SH M usIcrANs, .

ANNE, DAU P H I NE "

,

"

A Y O U NG V EN ETI AN O F

TH E

so m

or

AN E NG L I SH L AD Y ( 1 5t h Ce n tu ry ), A G ER M AN FALCO NE R , ’

A Y O U NG A

G ERM AN

n

P a sn m

n

WO MAN

,

Y o n c I TAL I AN G I R L ,

A J

'

"

m e t an -

,

A Y OU NG NO BLEM A N,

n

A LADY M a A G IAL L ANF ’

‘

AG NES S O R E L, '

A PE ASANT o r H AL L AU ; t u me ( Co a

A Y OU NG BAB E

t ur i e s), d l e th Ce n 1 4 th an

A S CO T I Is H CH IE F, '

‘

'

-

A Y O U NG V E NERIAN '

A L AD Y o r

‘

RAN" o r “

o r

R AN" ,

M I LAN,

'

A VENETIAN S OLDI ER, A L AD Y

BELO NGI NG

DAU PH INEss

TO

D AU VERG NE, ’

M I L ITARY CO S TU M E

( 1 5th

WO MAN o nTH E CAV AL I ER ( 1 7th Ce n t ury )

PEAS ANI ‘

‘

,

Y O U NG ITAL I AN

LADY

FR ENCH NO BLEM AN

n

a d 1 6 th

,

( 1 3 55)

CANTO N

t u r i e s) Ce n or

F R IB o uR c, -

A F REN C H L ADY O F

RAN "

.

H IS costume is ta ken from a minia of

ture entitle d

the manuscript

Eckecs

Am o u r eux

,

which is found in the R oyal

L ibrary of Paris

.

The wearer

,

a noble French lady is decked ,

with the sugar loaf head dress so -

-

commonly adopted during all of the fifteenth century

.

A band of blac k velvet

,

ornamente d with an edging of gold binds ,

her forehe ad ; the part of the robe which covers the breast is worked in black velvet above and in tissue of gold down to the ,

girdle ; the oute r robe is made of b lue vel

vet bor d ere d with gold and is lined and trimme d with crims on velvet ; t he ends o f ,

,

th e v

eil

sle e v e s are als o of is

velvet ;

of a whi te tr an sparent ,

gi rdl e is gr een

,

w

i th

golden ornaments ;

the por tion of the under ski r t which is seen -

below

is

vi ol e t ; the stockings are black

.

A G E R M A N NO B L E

A

GER M AN NOB LE

.

H I S costume is ta ken from

a

picture

of Pi nturicchio and ,

represents a nobleman in suite of the E mperor Fred at

pli g hted

the interview when he his fa i th to the Princess

H e wears a red hat held in its ,

place by a gre enish ribbon passing under ,

the chin

.

Th e

collar and the hood are yel

low bordere d i np art with gold .

.

The coa t

is whit e changing to a bluish tin t and is ,

,

terminated by a border of gold

.

Th e

stock

ings are re d ; the b oots of a yellowi s h color 2

r

,

and the

s

purs

ar e

silver

is red with gold b u tto ns ,

.

s w o rd belt

Th e

.

-

The case of the

sword is white with gilde d ornaments ,

Th e

.

Italian costumes fu rnish few example s

of the use of boots ; but the monu m ents of the northern nations prove that the French

,

the G erm ans and the E n glish very generally ,

availed themselves ing

t he

of

this

compelled doubtless ,

necessities of a mate

.

mod e of protect

co

ld

d an

moist cli

A P EA S A

NT

O F

T H E

G E I LT H A L

A P EA S AN T O F TH E G EILTH AL

.

HE dress of the men G e i lth al

of

,

in for

mer time s of an t r e m e ly

ex

peculiar fashion is ,

even at the present day unique and original the hair cut short

.

They

keep

Th e

high

.

crowned suga r loaf hat of a green -

,

or bl ac k color is daily becoming ,

m

ore rare among them ; the hat is now

more commonly worn with

a lo w

crown ;

it is mad e of felt in winter and in summer ,

of straw

Th e

.

neck is enci rcle d with a

plaite d frill sewe d to the shirt ,

.

The waist

coat is red and is fastened to the trowsers ,

3

by gr e en .

low e r

br aces ;

than

ings are slipp e rs

of

ar e

the doublet is brown ; the

the mid dle of the calf; the stock white worste d ; the .

made of bark

s

andals or

.

It is fro m the Illyrian peasantry and i n ,

G e i lth al

p articul ar those of

th e

Italian t h eatr e

borrowe d the dres s of

h as

That

'

of

,

th at

th e

the men as ,

des cribe d above be ars som e resembl a nce to ,

th e

in

costume of variou s burle squ e characte rs

th e

a ncient

sh

ows

.

3

A P E A S A N T W O M A N O F T H E G E ILT H AL

O F TH E G EI L TH AL -

.

HE w omen of G e i lth al

let

th e

th e i r

hair ha ng in long t w i sts

or red worsted kind of round

a

black ribbon

Th e y

.

he ad dr e ss

The

-

ca

p

,

which is

wear also a neckl ace

of glass bead s made to imitate coral ,

Th e i r

,

d an

a

short slee v e d j a ck et is us u ally -

"

pett i coa t and apron blue a

,

r ng ly contrast e d

st o

-

4

c

,

W i th

b or

olor ; wi de

ru ffl e s hang down at the e lbow ; and i nw i n ter a brown cloak covers the whole

Their

.

p e tticoats seldom re ach much lower than the kne e

.

This dress is extremely light

and well suite d

to

mountaineers

Their

.

,

the mode of life of these stockings are of white

or colore d worsted ; their sandals are tie d with ribbons or thon gs

.

waist is o neir

Th e

cle d with a girdle of black fur ad o rned with ,

mall plates of co pper ; up on it hangs a closed

s

knife

.

They seldom wear their hats unless ,

obli ged to do so by rain or the he at of the sun ; in general they carry them hanging by "

a ribbon to the arm

.

E NG L I S H

M U S IC IA N S

,

D i R E l G N O F E DW A R

E NGL IS H M USIC IANS R EI G N O F

ED W AR D

N

III

.

.

the houses of

great lords

,

musi

n occupied the

ci a s

first place among the class domestics

.

In early Saxon times the com mon pe ople had their bards who ,

received their support from the con t r i bu t i o n s

of the many

,

while the

kings had their minstrels as part of their househol d

.

A mong the Celtic races musicians h eld a still more imp ortant place in domestic life

,

and even in our own day it can hardly be 5

said that among the G all i c and Scotch ,

pe o

ples the class of iti nera n t perf ormers upon ,

th e

harp and the flute is e ntirely extinc t

a re co gnized element of soci ety

plate w h ich we give repr e sen t s

Th e g roup

.

of

simple musicians of the tim e

costume proves tha t a taste for the g ro tesque in dress at

th is

h ad

already made sensible progress

p eriod

.

DA U P H INE D A UV ERGNE ’

1 3 71

— 14 16

.

.

H IS medi aeval cos tu m e so bizarr e to ,

our mod e rn eyes is ,

yet so sim ple in its details that no description is ne eded

.

A nne D Au v e r gne was the wife of L ouis II D uc D e Bourbon who gaine d so many victories over the ’

,

,

Shortly afte r his marriage the

G enoese solicite d the aid of France against the pirates of the Barbary States who were ,

making continual inroads upon their com merc e ; the

Du e

d e B ourbon demanded and

obtained the command of the tr 0 0 ps which 6

H aving set

were sent to their re lief

.

the mo n t h of May

1 39 1

,

t in

ou

with twenty t hous

and men and disembarking at the b eginning ,

,

of t he summer in sight of the an cient city of ,

Carthage he invested that place and in a ,

,

single

twice defeate d the King of Tunis

d ay

who was force d to

for pe ace

s ue

,

O n his

.

re tu rn he gave cha se to the Saracens whose ,

vessels infested the Me diterranean and afte r ,

a c r uise of a

fe w

of G eno a i nt h e ,

m o nth s

re

m idst

of

,

-

entered the por t th e

acclamati on s '

of a people who h aile d him as their li berator S oo nafter

,

.

the protracted illness of the Kin g

of France force d the

Du e

de Bourbon to

assum e the adminis tration of the govern ment

.

H istory has recorded nothing remarkable of the wife of this Prince whom our plate r

epre sents in the costume of the time

.

A Y O U NG

LA C AL Z A V E N E T IA N B E LO N G I NG TO T H E S O C I ET Y O F .

A YOUNG or

V

TH E S O CI ETY

or

ENETIAN “

L A CAL Z A

.

HE Society of

La

”

Calza was an asso ci at i o ‘

i

n of you ng Vene

ti a n noblemen and a few stran of

high rank who with ,

the sanction of the magistrates

,

bound themselves by the ties of reciprocal friendship and had ,

fo r

their obj ect the pursuit of honor able p leasures

.

exp en se public ,

at r i c al

They f é te s ,

g ave at t heir own

accomp anied with the

repr e sentations

.

They

to

d iscourse

to

cele brate masquerades

met together

music to hold gondola race s ,

,

,

and for every

HI S

kind

of

TORI CAL

COS

TUMES

innocent a m u sement

.

In o r der to

.

recognize each other in the public t he y

f é t e s,

wore the right s t ocking ornamente d

with various c o lors and eve nwith

em

,

eries of gold Th e

,

o

f

silver or

pe arls

of

br o i d

.

young man of this Society whom our

plate represents is drawn and colored after a picture of

Car pacci a

A c ademy of

F ine

preserved in

,

A rts at

V enice

th e

The

.

bonnet is of violet velve t enriche d with ,

golden embroideries and ornam e nts

;

the

jacket is of gre en velvet with a narr o w ,

r ed

border below the d oublet is black and ‘

,

p ermits the shirt to be seen ; the left stock ing is adorned with

w

hite and black stripe s

the right stocking is

'

carlet ornamente d

s

wit h two palm branche s

,

,

d an

with an em

broide ry of pearls upon the thigh ; the gloves are yello w

.

A Y O U NG

G I R L O F T H E C A NT O N

S C H WY T Z

.

YOUN

G

GIRL

O F TH E CANTO N S CH W Y 'I‘ Z

.

HE costume of w o men and young girls in S ch w y t z ,

th e

Canton

of

and es pecially in

the chief place of that name characterized by a certain

,

de

gree of sti ff ness and a pproaches ,

the ancient French taste

;

it is

something between the dress of the peasant and the citizen

.

It follows

,

the caprices of fashion and is subj ect ,

to various cha nges Th e

.

ordinary and more or less modern

dres s of the inhabitants consists at the pres 8

HIS

TORI CAL

CO S

TUMES

.

ent tim e of a bl ack woolen corset bordered ,

with silken trimmings ; a skirt in part wool

,

ornamented with blu e stripes or flowers

,

,

c o vere d with a linen apron of vario us colors ; white cotton sto ckings ; shoes ornamented with little silver buckles

.

Th e

hair is gath

ered into a t w ist at the back of the h e ad ; the principal ornament co nsists of an orig inal and unique coif compose d of com mon ,

and co arse laces

,

r i sm

g

in two enormous

butterfly wi ngs betwe en which rests a tis ,

sue

of

arti fi cial flow e rs intermingle d with ,

tinsel and fastened by a large silver e agle ,

set

t ransversely

d r e ss,

singular as

in the hair it

.

This

head

is does not fail to be ,

pleasing when it decks the head of some pretty blond e

.

It is naturally less

be

c o mi ng to ladies of a certain age when the ,

hair is gray and p owdered 8

.

Finally as a ,

yo ung wome n

pr ayers

.

AN E N G LI S H LAD Y

,

"

IS

”

C E NT U R Y

)

AN ENGL IS H LADY

.

F I FTEE NTH

CE NTU R Y

.

IS costume

be

longs to the close of the fifteenth cen '

tury and ,

is

one of the

most elegant of this epoch

.

This

no b le lady wears over her breast an article fashion

of

attire of a peculiar

which was very generally

adopted about the end of the te e n th

fif

and the beginning of the sixteenth

centuries

H er dress is also characterized

.

by the lon g trailing sleeves of the chemise ,

,

similar in mode to those of the men of the times

.

A G E R M A N FA L C O N E R

.

A GER M AN F AL C ONE R .

HE chase was of all ,

othe rs

,

th e

am use

ment for which the northern nations of E urop e had the strongest attach ment and which together with ,

,

right

o

f

th e

we aring

sword

,

t he

co

n

stitute d their dearest privilege

.

Frederic II E mp eror of G ermany himself ,

,

comp ose d a tre atise upon the nature and the care they re quired

.

o

Inthis

f

birds

,

treatise

the modes of raising birds of prey such as ,

the sparrow haw k and the falcon are ex -

,

plaine d in full This

.

costume is taken from a precious 10

HIS

TORI CAL

CO S

th e

man u script preserve d in Vatican of this

TUMES

.

L ibrary of the

It would app ear that -

.

falconer

employe d in

th e

.

livery

th e

was common to all th ose imperial chase

.

Th e

bonnet is furnished with red cords

white

B ands

.

,

alternately violet white and gre en cross the ,

,

coat all of which are embroidered with red

.

,

coat is

Th e

well as in

O

pen from the girdle down as

t he

,

u

pper part to allow

th e

he ad

to pass throug h but is closed over the breast ,

by buttons w

.

Th e

unde r sle e ves are blue -

ith black cords

The hose are b rown

.

glove of t h e hand upon which the falcon

Th e

is borne is gray

The violet hat which ,

.

hangs over the shoulders is ,

cord

.

.

Th e

belt

or

gre en bag is black ,

girdle ,

h eld

by a

r ed

which carries a ’

.

H e holds a bird s wing

,

deck ed with a piece of scarlet ribbon as an ,

emblem of his employment 10

.

G E H M AN

P E AS A NT

A YO U NG GERM AN

P EA S AN T

W O M AN

.

H IS dress is so sim ple that no tion is needed

d es cr i p .

It is

from the great G erm an on costume by Kr e t sch custom of drawing

to

gether the outer garment in front so

as to form a graceful drapery o n

back was long practised by the G er ,

man p easantry and has not yet f allen ,

t i r e ly

into disuse

.

eu

The col o rs of the di ffer

ent garments as represented in the plate ,

,

are those most generally adopted by the p easants

.

A Y O U NG I T A L I AN G I R L

.

A

YO U N G

ITALI AN G IRL

.

is easy to per ce i ve ,

by O bserving

the ancient paint ings and the monuments of the R enaissance that the young ,

I t alian girls retained even in the ,

thirte enth and fourteenth centu ries the custom of allowing the hair to grow and of p ermitting it to float ,

fre ely up on the shoulders after the manner ,

of the early L ombards

.

This mode was

even employed as a si gn of distinction twe en marrie d women and young girls

be

.

A s to the dress of women in gene ral after ,

the p overty of the earlier age s w as suc ceeded 12

by an excessive degre e of magni fi cence there ,

arose so many vari ations that it is difficult to make a choice among the numerous cos

,

tu m

es

which fill the pictures of this epoch

Th e

figur e here represented

.

which is

,

taken from a painting of Pinturicchio has ,

so much of the character of a portrait that there can be little doubt of the authenticity of th e costume depicted

.

Th e

in its mode of adjustment th e

,

robe imit ates

th e

,

drapery of

antique statues ; it is without sle eves

,

and is se cured u pon the shoulders by golden clasps ; it is of a violet color

.

Th e

bodice

,

the sleeves and the stockings are woven of a

tissue

Of

gold

.

A small , yellowish veil

,

from which her black lock s e scap e and float u

p on the sh o ulders p artly covers the top ,

of the head t ume

.

In other paintings this cos ,

is repeate d with the addit i on of a ligh t

h o ulder s

s

,

A

J

U GGLE R

.

HE figure here rep resente d was taken a manuscript of

R oman de la R ose pre served i nthe R oyal L ibrary at ,

Brusse ls Th e

.

jugglers occupied them

selves by turns with sleight p erformances

with dances

,

p oetry with mu sic et c ,

.

,

13

of

,

hand wi th

A YO U NG

D U CH ES S

I3

TH

C E NT U R Y

.

A

YO U NG D UC HE SS CENT U RY

T IIIR I EE NTH ‘

’ ‘

.

.

HE accompanying rich and elegant cos tume has been ex tracte d from a picture by the D uc de Seyde

who

,

died in the flower of his years a ,

,

victim to his passio nfor art was celebrated both and engraver d an

.

as

He

.

painter

A t once the fri end

rival of A lbert D urer a noble emula ,

tion led them often to treat the same sub

j e ct s and the friendship which unite d them was expresse d by a frequent inter ,

change

Of

their works

.

Th e

picture from

which the present costume has been 14

opie d

C

HI S

is

o

TOR I CAL

C OS

TUM ES

.

ne of the most pre cious ornaments of

the A cadem y of Fine A rts at Pisa

.

The young D uchess who is here

re

pr e

sente d wears up on her head a small white h o od covere d with a black bonnet ed ged with gold ; upon this rests a golden crown ,

.

The chem i sette is white trimmed with a ,

light band of gold and closed ,

with a golden button

.

at

the neck

Through th e Op en

ing of the chemisette may be seen the neck of the chemise which is edged with lace ,

.

The under dress is black ornamented with -

,

p earls across the breast and over the shoul ders

.

She we ars a little medal attache d to

a re d cord passing around the neck

.

The

outer robe is of golden brocade the open ,

ing on the sid e of which is brought together by rich clasps permitting ,

be se en

.

th e

under skirt to -

A golden chain is thro w n about

HIS

th e

TORI CAL

CO S

TUM ES

.

shoulders and hangs low in front ,

The

.

large sle eves are made of some li ght ma t e r i al

of a yellowish hue changing to a lake

color

an d

,

,

are fas t ene d at the shoulders by

two black lacets permitting ,

be seen

chemi se

to

under sleev e s of red velvet

Th e

.

th e

-

,

,

are tight but fuller around the hands which ,

th ey

,

partly cover ; they also have slashes

upon the arm s which are laced with small ,

wh ite la cets

,

allowing

to be see n beneath

another white sleeve

.

A blue gir d le with

re d cords clasped with a ri ch cameo sur ,

rou n ds the waist

,

.

Th e

shoes are black

.

A

YO U NG NO B LE M AN

.

H IS costume is

re

m ark able for th e fulness of the sleeves

,

the stripes of pinking over the body of the coat fulness

,

d an

This

.

the lavish use of

b ells indicate a dress designed ,

a festal occasion as well as the ,

high rank of the wearer

Th e

.

he ad dress consists of a twisted turban of -

gay

colors de ck e d ,

w

ith high fe athers 15

.

A LADY AND A

G AL LANT

.

1 79 5

.

HE

notic e a b le

m ost

features in the cos tume of the gallant which the plat e represents are the excessively high cra vat

,

th e

v

ari egated hose the short ,

waist of the coa t and the dupli ,

cate fob chains -

.

Th e

extra v a gance

of the costume in these particulars beyond that whi ch to g ether with the

is

common to the time

great

len gth of

th e

hair

,

,

ive the cha r acter somethin s g of a dandy g ish app e ar ance

.

This e ff ect

is

till f urther

s

heightene d b y a stri k ing contrast of colors 16

.

lady

,

as r eprese nted

in

p late

more modestly and tastefully dr e sse d “

,

co stu me be ari ng a slig ht re semblan ce -

the

yles now in vogue

st

.

Thes e figur e s are taken from Kretschmer .

.

AGNE S S OREL

.

S O REL or ,

Sorean mistress of ,

Charles VII King ,

of France was born i nth e ,

village of Frome nteau in Tou ,

raine

.

She was the daughter of

the Seigneur Saint G eraud -

,

a

no b leman attache d to the house of the C ount de C lermont

.

Wi t h the

advantages of anelaborate education added to

her natural gifts she came as maid ,

,

honor to the D uchess

d An jo u

of France i n th e year

’

1 431

.

,

-

of

to the court

A gnes who ,

was called the M aid of Fromenteau was then i n the full bloom of her beauty and ,

17

e asily captivated the heart of the King

In

.

order to attach h e r to his court he conferred ,

upon her the p osition of maid

-

of

the "ue en The E nglish were then masters

— honor

to

.

kingdom of France u r all

y

.

of

half the

Charles though nat ,

brave had fallen into a profou nd ,

ap athy in conse quence of a feebl e ness of charact e r which u nfi tt e d him for the struggle

A gnes alone succeede d in recalling him to a sense of what was due against misfortune

.

to his own glory and that of his pe o ple She died In Nor m andy

,

w

hither she

gone to warn the King of a conspiracy 17

.

.

h ad

A

P EA S AN T O F

H AL LAU

.

HE peasant of H al lau wears a lar g e black

,

three cornere d -

,

and in addition dur ,

in g

the winter a blac k bonnet ,

or leathern cap which he also ,

wears at work when he has not his hat

.

This bonnet once put on ,

is rarely removed from

hi s

head

,

.

A round his neck he we ars a black silk cra vat which is tied on the nap e of the neck ,

.

The j ack et or short coat is mad e of line n ,

or

sometimes of some

t e r i al

.

w

oolen or cotton ma

It is only in winter that he wears

as here represented a kind of scarlet waist ,

18

,

HI S

TOR I CAL

COS

TUM ES

.

coat with white or yell ow metal buttons ,

.

A b ove this waistcoat (and in summer i m me diately over the shirt) may be seen the gallowses an indisp ensable feature in the ,

costu m e of the inhabitan t of this district ; t hese ar e

sometimes of silk

as here of leather ,

.

d an

sometim e s

,

pu ff e d trowsers

,

,

Th e

known under the name of p lu mp

-

bo son are ,

made of bl ack w o olen or cotton goods ; they are very full and han g in nu m erous folds ,

The knit woolen or

otton stock ings are

c

fas t ene d to the trowsers

.

In place of

buckles the shoes have leather strings ,

.

,

co v

ered by a strip of leath e r of the same length as the shoe s -

.

A Y O U NG

L AD Y

.

I4

ND A H O E C 8 A F R N F O M E U T L L S O (C T “

8

C E NT U R Y

,

A YO U NG LADY

.

CO S TU ME O F FRANCE AND H OLL AND IN THE F OU R TEEXTII

AND

F IF TEENTH

CENTU RIES

.

HE young woman who figures in the accompanyin g plate holds in her hand a feather of the

p eacock

.

In

th e

fourteenth and fifte enth centuries

,

the p eacock the pheasant and the ,

heron were to the

hevaliers of

C

what the Styx was to the gods of f able

.

Whenever an important enterprise was u

ndertake n a p eacock or a pheasant some ,

,

times roasted

,

bu t

always arrayed in 19

i ts

HIS

TOR I CAL

C O S TU M ES

.

most be autiful plumage was carrie d with ,

great so lemnity by marrie d ladie s or maid ens i n a large silver or go lden basin into ,

,

th e

,

midst of the numerous a ssembly of

knights

It was prese nte d in turn to each

.

hevalier and e a ch

C

,

o

ne made his vow o ver

the bird ; it was then p laced upon the ta ble to b e distribute d to all ceremony Th e

w

ass iste d in the

ho

.

fi gure

here given

painting of L ucas

de

taken from a

,

Seyde wi ll serve as ,

a typ e of the general costume of of France

th e

women

H olland and Italy during

,

fourte enth and fifte enth centuries

th e

.

The head dress of this young woman con -

sists of a kind of turban ,

o

f

a ros e color

.

The middle band is black as w e ll as the ,

small bonnet which falls over her ears ; the border of the bonnet is of g o ld

,

n the

a d

HI S

TORI CAL

embroideries of silver

TUMES

COS

.

A light white vei l

.

,

covers her forehead envelops a lock of hair ,

under the ear and passing back over the ,

,

turban is tie d upon the top leaving the ,

,

end to float over the shoulders i se tt e

chem

Th e

.

is white and is adorne d with golden ,

buttons and embr o i deries

Th e

.

some g r e en material and is ,

e

trim m ings and fillet s of gold

robe is of

nriched with .

short

Th e

sle eve is bound by a lacet and so m e golden o rnaments so

The un d er sleeve is of crim -

.

n velvet through the ,

is se en the chemis e is laced

by

p enings

Th e

“

ar m

O

.

tw o

which

of

slash under the

s m all black cords

.

The cloak is whit e changi ng to a blue and ,

,

is ornam e nte d with a gold e n border girdle is violet and ,

th e 19

Th e

.

hose are bl ack

.

A

WO M AN

OF

IST R IA

.

HE costume of the Istrians is subj ect to fre quent modifications

,

general character is as The men wear a

lo w ,

black

felt hat with so narrow a brim ,

that it aff ords no protection from either the sun or the rain hair

cropp e d short

O ver

.

Their

.

a shirt with a

narrow collar they don a short white j ack et

,

of coarse woolen cloth the sle eves of which ,

are turne d back to the shoulder

Their

.

trowsers are black or of w h ite and bro w n ,

strip es and are tie d below the k ne e ,

20

.

Most

of them carry at the girdle a pouch into ,

which they place

all

sorts of knick knacks -

Their stock ings are generally of wors t e d and their shoes ,

leather Th e

ar e

w

.

hite

of undresse d

.

women both in sum mer and winter ,

,

wear gowns of white lin e n ; over which in the cold season which is of short duration ,

,

they thr ow an over garment of some dark -

material

The hair is comb ed back over the

.

head which ,

is

covere d with a turban of

white linen so twi ste d that one end of this ,

head ge ar falls up on the left shoulder -

.

The

chemise covers the entire neck and falls in ,

numerous folds liar form

.

.

Their shoes are of a

pe cu

They we ar ab o ut their waist a

girdle within which they are fond of setting ,

a

p osy of flowers

To this girdle also is

.

attached the distaff which is the i nd i spe nsa ,

20

these w ome n .

A .

SC O TT IS H C HI E F

.

T I M E O F EDWARD I

.

AND

R O B ERT B RU CE

.

HE r e pr ese n ta tion of a ship with clouds flying above on the ,

buck ler of this warrior leads ,

us to conj ecture that this p ersonage was a descendant of the ancient kings of the Norwegian race “

;

a lord of the isle s

.

lion rampant

”

Th e

at the base

of

the shield surrounde d by a k ind of plait ,

denotes some

afli li at i o

,

n with the ki ngs of

Scotland ; and this last circumstance may lead to the discovery of the nam e of the Chief

.

The costume agre es perfectly 21

w

ith

HI S

TORI CAL

COS

TUM E S

.

the ide a which we form of the Scottish warri ors before their league with F rance as

Froissart describes the m

.

This

,

hist o rian

says th at they were very i m perfe ctly

co v

ered with defe nsive armor prior to the time of Charles VI who se nt to their aid a bod y ,

of French knights together with the suits ,

of mail obtained by the disarmament of seditious P arisians

.

chief here represente d leans upon

Th e

a lance ;

u

p on

h is

head he wears a small

linen coif such as distinguishe d most of the ,

A nglo S axon warriors long before the epoch -

in qu e stion

.

Th e

form of his b uckler as ,

well as that of his large sword b e longs to ,

the time Th e

the

r

eign above me ntion e d

p urse which he carries is also an

ide n ce of Th e

d an

the

.

ev

antiquity of thi s costume

.

shell is a kind of trump et c arried for

purpos e

sou n ding

This figure was

co

appeal pie d

a larg e

mo n ument which behind

at

I o na or

Ico ln i ki ll ‘

.

YO UNG

V ENE T I AN O F

L ATTE R P ART O F TH E F O U R TEE NTH

T

RAN "

CE NTU RY

.

.

is supposed that

the origin and even the liberty of the .

famo u s rep u blic of Venice back beyond the Middle

A ges and ,

th e

Ve netia ns boast

of n e ver havi ng at any period be en s ubj ect b ar i an s

to

the y o ke of the bar

.

The c o stume of a young Venetian here ,

rep resented

,

though more common near ,

the close of the fourteenth cen tury to ,

th e

young n obles of other countries than Italy b elonge d

especially to t his most opulent and 22

Ven ezz i a la bella

gallant of all cities this

'

,

,

whose lagoon s were so gay with rich

gon

dolas and with vestments of silk of velvet ,

,

and of gold

,

.

The representation of a you n g Venetia n here g iven is taken from a picture of Crivelli preserve d in the gallery of

B i ér a at

H is head is covere d by a bonnet

o

f

,

Milan .

scarlet

w o ol su ch as was generally worn by the ,

young men of the time

.

mall velvet

Th e

s

cloak of a lake color is line d with similar ,

,

materi al but of a gre e n color edge d with ,

,

gold ; the borde r of the cloak about the neck above whic h is se e n the e dge of the ,

shirt collar -

,

which is n ot

is also of gold ,

as

.

Th e

cloak

in many similar costumes

,

op e n on the side is throw n up on the left “

“

,

should er and p artly covers ,

Th e

th e

right hand

.

co llar band is of gold and is enriche d -

,

22

HI S

TORI CAL

COS

TUM ES

.

with rows of p earls and pre cious stones

.

The doublet i s sky bl u e ornamented with sil -

,

ver

flo w

er

-

work ; the crimson ve l v et sleeve

dashed with gold open from the wrist to ,

the elbow shows the shir t be neath and is ,

,

brought to g ether by red lacets

.

Th e

slash

in the side of the double t is adorne d wit h a

b raid stitched

w

ith gold

Th e

.

border below

con sists of a b and of gold lace ornam ente d ,

w

ith embroidere d work of a lake color

.

Th e

girdle is of green velvet edg ed with gold ,

The

h ose

.

are made of scarlet cloth ; the

shoes are red and are la ce d with a yellow ,

cord ; or yellow laced with a red cord ,

.

The

lance be ars a stre am er which is white abov e

nre d below

a d

,

.

LADY

OF

RAN"

OF

MILAN

.

CL OS E OF TH E F IF TEENTH CENT U RY

.

H IS elegant costume is taken from a min i at u r e

others

,

which

,

with

ornaments a small

boo k of prayers

.

The exe

and finish of these precious paintings leave no room for doubt concerning the epoch to which they belong fi xed

tury

.

The date may b e

as near the close of the fifte enth cen

.

This

lady has he r head dresse d with a

small white bonnet bordered with pearls -

,

and enriche d with precious stones 23

.

The

HIS

TORI CAL

TUM ES

COS

.

cloak is red with go lde n embroideries and ,

gre en lining

Th e

.

outer r o b e is mad e of

some white material bordere d with gold ,

d an

having a lining of a lak e color

inner robe is blue

.

Th e

Th e

.

stockings are cri m

son and are adorned with golden spangles ,

.

Th e

sleeves belong to the outer rob e ; they

have a li n ing of dere d with gold

a .

lake color and ,

Th e

small

ar e

bor

ord whic h

c

pass e s over the forehead and is adorned ,

with a pre cious stone is black ; the hair is ,

allo w e d to fall u n confine d

.

ladies of this p eriod as many

Th e

,

of

the contemp orary paintings show were in ,

the ha bit

of

carrying their b ook of prayers

in a kin d of a silken or velvet bag richly ,

worke d ed

.

Th e

noblewoman here re present

holds her book O pen up on this e nvelop

ment which is here of crimson velvet ,

23

.

A S O L D IE R

.

A

V ENE T I AN

S OLDIER LTH O U G H

medi aeval

the

military

costumes w ere as varie d as are those of our day yet styles not ,

t fe r e n

m aterially

dif

from that of the Venetian

soldier we have here given are found in the old illuminate d books of m

any of the E uropean natio n s This .

soldier though doubly arme d has on but ,

,

compara t ively little armor which was falli ng ,

g radually into disuse at this ti me

consists

of

.

Th e

dress

a j acket and bree ches which ,

are made very full and b ound down with ,

bands at short distances 24

,

forming pu ff s

.

de r

-

garment s

w

,

7

is

a

hite

.

Th e

long

mark e d

color wh i ch

dres s do e s not ,

,

was s ometimes e rs of a de ep or an ge

.

A LADY ’ S U I TE O F TH E DAU P H IN ESS D AU VER G NE

B ELO NG ING T O

.

HE costume here presented

of

re

a lady

in the suite of A nne D Au v e r g n e, ’

wife of L ouis II

,

D uc de B ourbon is copie d from an armorial record of A uvergne ,

.

This lady came to the court of F rance with the D auphiness in

1 8 71

.

It was in the fourteenth century that the custom b egan of blazoning armorial b earings up on the dress ; but it was not till the

r

eign of Charles V that the custom

be came general in F rance 25

.

M E D IA E VA L

M I LI T A R Y C O S T U M E

A M IL IT A RY C O ST UM E F I FTEE NT H

AND S IX TEE NTH CENT U R I E S

.

.

H E fi g u r e fr o m which this costume is

opied has too

C

much of the character of p ortr ait to permit of any certainty concerning its t i ci ty

.

u

n

au th e n

A lthough of a much later

date it has nevertheless some of ,

,

,

the traits p eculiar to certain cos tu m

es

in the painti ngs of G iotto preserved ,

Camp o Santo of Pisa head

protected by a kind of white

is

bo nnet or hat

.

.

H e wears a d r ess op en on

the sides made of an earth colored cloth -

,

HI S

TORI CAL

COS TUM

S

.

with a turne d down coll ar of bla ck v e lvet -

He

is arme d with a sabre suspende d

leather strap

.

Th e

gilde d furnishings dish yell ow color

,

.

scabbar d is black with ,

The hose d an

ar e

of a red

the boots

with white reverse d to ps

black

taken

represents the Crucifixi on ; it is by Verona and b e ars ,

th e 26

,

.

The picture from which this of

.

date M D I

M ichael .

P E A S A NT

WO

M AN O F T H E C AN T O N F R I B O U R G

.

P EA S AN T

A

W O M AN

OF TH E CANTO N OF FR IB O U R G , IN F E S TAL H AB I T

.

IS costume di ffers in every resp ect from that of the French or

R omance p easants

.

The head

is dressed in a blac k b onnet or cap surmounte d with a crown ,

of arti ficial flowers of various colors

,

g roup e d

harmoniously and ,

b ound b y a silver cord

.

The

hair is

p arted upon the forehead and falls b ehind ,

in

tw

o

fre e floating masses confine d by a ,

,

ribb on varying from scarlet to green

.

A round the neck is an anti q ue linen ru ff of

a b luish tint

.

A fine black or de e p 27

bro w n under waist

garnish e d with black

-

,

velve t ribbons covers the arms and

the

,

shoulders in

W inter ,

while in summer beau r u flle s ,

tifu l white linen sle eves with lace ,

extend from a scarlet b odice from

w hich

,

h angs a p etticoat of th e

th e

same color

A bove

.

ru ffs that s urroun d the neck th ey w ear

a black neck pie ce of cut velvet adorned -

,

with black velvet ribbons

The corselet is

.

lace d over the breast with ribbons of vari ous

olors mingle d with silver and

c

gold ;

,

and over this a silver chain upon

w

,

hich is

h u ng a silver box of an oval shape which ,

is calle d Agnu s B ed and whi ch is more or ,

less richly work ed ac cording to the ,

of the wearer hind

by

A black silk apron tie d ,

be

a large ribbon wo rk e d with varie

gate d fl owe rs th e

.

fortune

,

or

with silver and gold after ,

manner of a scarf completes this singu ,

27

lar ly

rich apparel which u p on a bea u tiful p erson shows to fine e ff ect and which b e ,

,

,

,

sides re calls

f orc i bly th e

dressing

costumes

of

is

very

or dinary co n si sting of white stockings

d an

Th e

of

the feet and legs

the

,

blac k sho es wi th larg e silv e r buckles

.

O nly

crown

privilege of wearin g

all

women are dresse d ,

with the crown

.

Marri e d

r e sp e cts lik e

black cap is not

m ai d ens except that o ff

leather

P ointe d heels have grown into

.

gradual disuse

set

or

.

A C A VA LI E R

A C AVA L I E R SEVENTEENTH CENTU RY

.

.

RE SS at this epoch had undergone great changes in many of the

countrie s of E uro p e

B oots were v

.

b eginnin g to

ery generally used and the ,

trun k s

”

some ti m e

or

b r e e ches which

h ad

,

b e en short

extende d below the kne e

.

w

,

fo r

er e

The small

cloa k which had b e en previously worn across the b ack was now place d on the left shoulder

.

The hair

w as

worn lo ng

and curled ; lar g e collars edge d with lace

,

and even lace tr i m m ings to the boots were ,

28

m u ch

vogue

Th e

cane wh i ch into such ge neral use app e ared about .

,

,

this time

.

The ex act style of c o stume here

r e p resente d p r ev ailed Fran ce about the time of R ichelieu 23

.

A YO U N G

ITA

LI A N

LA D Y

'

12 6

C)

A Y O U NG IT AL IAN LADY

.

F TER observing th e an cient paintings it ,

is easy to perceive that

,

if the costume of women in gen eral j ustified the p assa g e of laws to restrain their too great

m ag

nifi ce nce of dress nevertheless ,

the costume of youn g gi rls always u

nited modesty with richness and -

,

to disarm the most severe censors

.

A mbroise L orenzetti did not de em the cos tume here represented unworthy to deck the blesse d ones in his picture of The L ast J

udgment ; it is from this wor k that the

accomp any in g fi gure is ta k en 29

.

TORI CAL

HIS

Th e

CO S

TUMES

.

outer rob e is of a rose color and is ,

edged with gold

Th e

.

unde r dress is bright -

b lu e and p e rmits the collar of the che m ise to show Th e s le eve s O pen from the elbow ,

.

to the wrist edge d and lace d with a golden ,

cor d showing another w h ite sle eve beneath ,

Th e

.

hair tho u gh held back by a small ,

chain falls fre e upon her shoulders ,

,

as w as

then the custom with all you ng girls before their marriage Th e W ith

shoes are

gold

th e

dr e ss of

Of

blue velvet embroide r e d ,

.

R icordano tra sts

.

r

i th e M ale spi n ,

historia n con ,

ich n ess of this c o s t ume

t h e F lorentines

w

ith the

prior to the year

1 260

Then

‘

th e

inhabitants of Florenc e were

sober ; their fo od was simp le sive but their ,

m anners

d in an e x en p

were good

.

They

did

despise the coarse st stuff s

dr e ss or ,

d an

cove re d themselves with simple skins plain b onnets of

.

A narrow p ettico at

a c o a r se mate r ial of

scarlet col o r

,

and

g oat

’

m ad e

s hair of a ,

gathere d around the

w

a i st

by a le a thern girdle havi n g a b uckle ,

’

a

a cloak line d with minever wi th

l cm tzgu c ; '

,

a hood at the back —such was the dress with

which

th e

'

women were content

” .

A

F REN C H

NOB LEM AN

.

1 36 5

.

O

WARD the end of

the reig n of King J

ohn fashionable gen

t le m e n b e g an

to pink the bor

ders of their robes ; but under Charles V this b ecam e the rage

,

and continued into the fifte enth century

.

The fashion continue d

also of wearing long half sle eves

,

app endages embroidere d with gold or long ,

ribbons re aching to the grou nd 239 220 9 6 ,

Charles V the

.

U nder

or presidential cap

was laid aside and in its place were ,

stitute d two

w

id e

ép au li ér es , 30

su b

or shoulder

,

HIS

pieces ,

TOR I CAL

CO S

TUM E S

.

which forme d at the same time false

sle eves and a false coll ar

The queue of the

.

hood gre atly lengthene d during the reig n ,

J

of King

ohn and after his death ,

,

w

as

prolonge d till it reache d the ground in the ,

form of a cord which was sometimes ,

around the head

There

.

ion certai n kinds

of

t ied

were also in fash

cardinals or pelisses

,

with several q u eues or pinke d in various ,

ways

and worn

,

Noblemen

O

ften on the shoulders

ordinarily wore

cha es ,

p

.

or caps ;

for gre at occasions they wore a large clo ak O

p en on the right or having two slits from ,

the bre ast down and furnished w i th an ,

ép i tog e u

.

A rmorial be arings were very little

sed except on state occasions ; p e ople con

tented themsel v es with taki ng the armorial colors for their ordi nary garments ; hence s u its of two -

d an

sometimes three colors

.