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English Pages 218 [212] Year 2016
I N TR O D U CT I O N E
.
e ff ort to se ek
expression in cos tume is one of the most universal in nature Nature
.
strews along the se a
shore shell s of an infinite vari e ty of tints apparently with no ,
other obj e ct than to please the eye ; she scatters flowers of countless hues and delicate combinations of colors over the hills and meadows from it would se em ,
,
,
the simple love of adornment ; she decks her animal creation in furs and plumage mar k e d and painte d by a fancy revelling in the delight of its own freedom
.
Man forms
no ex ception ; the instinct in
him
to array
hims e lf in varie d colo rs and draperies is part of the system m o ny with
her
of
Nature
and is in har
,
an d
creative
a
fre e spirit
.
The philosopher th e n who despises dress ,
,
o verdo e s the character he ass um es
No r
.
need we anapology for catering as we ,
do
in the volume here pres e n t ed to the fancy ,
of the masquerader or to actor and
artist
th e t astes
of the
.
While the instinct of which we sp eak is an attribute of every age it is natural that ,
as in
outh we more y
e
specially rej oice in
a sp ontaneous self expression so in those -
,
epochs of history when a distinct p eople or group of pe oples is passing through its p eriod of youth there sh o uld be exhibite d ,
an extraordinary fl o w e r i n g
tume
.
-
out of
gay
co s
Such an epoch was that of the VI
Middle A ges —a period
hen society was
w
divide d and subdivide d into orders and classes s e cular and religious to a deg r e e ,
,
ne v er befo re witnessed and when the rank ,
and circumstance of life were d enoted
d an
de corate d by every fashion of garb and d e vice that a glo w ing fancy could i n vent
,
It is there fore principally to this great p eriod that we have had re course i nselect in g
material for this work
In
m aking
this selection
.
W hil e ‘
,
aiming at
as great variety as is consistent with
the
limits of the work we h ave given prefer ,
ence to those costumes that combine
th e
quaintness of the past with an artistic grace and beauty sin ce in the mas q uerade pe ople ,
,
of taste will
s
,
e ek to reproduce not that
which is simply grotesque but that which ,
is beautiful as well as novel
.
Wh ere ex
p e nse is a matter of consideration the mas q u e r ad e r
will do well to obs e rve that many
of the styles here represented thou gh rich ,
in appe arance may be made at le ss cost ,
than is usually paid for the hire of
a single
dress to the professional c o stumer whose ,
tawdry goods have neither the
r e co m
m en
dation of cleanliness nor historic truthful
ness —Whose H enry VIII and the like need to be
”
“
,
known Th e
oan of A rc
J
,
,
to be
l car d e d a p fl
.
E ditor bei n g also solicitous as an ,
A ctor to subserve the interests of his pro ,
has f e ssi o n ,
had an
ey e
to the choice of such
costumes as are suite d to the stage and at ,
the same time have be en rarely or never “
brought out Venetian
.
The costume of
“
The
was sele cte d by Mr
B ooth on the revival of the
.
Y oung
E dwin
M erchant of
Venice
at the late Wint er G arden
,
tre — the only occasion
,
The a
in this country
,
reat drama was brought u p on g
when that
the stage with strict historic truthful ness of costume Th e
that the
.
E ditor is als o encouraged to bel i eve
t he
work will be found acceptabl e to
artist ,
as a ff ording him material help
in re produci ng on his canvas the life of the past
,
as
well as rich suggestion for the
elab o ration of the
w
ork of pure fancy
.
In proof of the historic fidelity of the style s here presented it will only be ,
meces
s ary to state that they are selected from the gr eat works of Kretschmer Inthe
,
Bo n nard H erb e
F errario ,
n oth ers
a d
,
of
,
equal authority
text which accompanies the plat es
we have not in every instance sought
to
give detailed descriptions as the exe cutio n ,
1X
T
IN R OD
UCTI ON
of even the most delicate features of dress has be en well looked to by the artist
.
A s articles re quisite for the ma k ing
-
u
p
of such costumes as those we illustrate can only be procured of certain parties who are ,
probably unk nown by many into whose hands this book may fall we shall perhaps ,
,
,
do good service in giving a list of those to whom the theatrical profession gener ally resort No
Messrs
.
Shannon
.
Maide n lane
32
Miller
,
Crane
,
g old
and silver trimm ings together with
.
,
furnish the
,
the cloths
swords
,
tableau lights Taylor No ,
.
&c
,
96
feathers
,
M essrs
.
,
ornaments Vanderlip
.
B owery supply the hosiery ,
tights body dresses sy mmetries &c -
J
,
,
,
ohn O Do n ne ll ’
,
,
Mr
.
,
.
Bowery is the charac
260
,
ter boot and shoe maker for the pro fession ; and Mr J P D euel .
.
.
,
1 24
A mity street the ,
the
D e Sp otte 3 3 6 wigs beards
st
age
r p
ope rties
.
,
,
tho u gh coun tr y
Y e rk
all" in
when o r d e r e d .
mask s
,
The se p artie s
.
se
d n
,
A Fas hi o
nLA
DY
R AN"
or
.
A G E R M AN No B LE, A PE AS ANT
or
G ELLTH AL
TH E
E NG LI SH M usIcrANs, .
ANNE, DAU P H I NE "
,
"
A Y O U NG V EN ETI AN O F
TH E
so m
or
AN E NG L I SH L AD Y ( 1 5t h Ce n tu ry ), A G ER M AN FALCO NE R , ’
A Y O U NG A
G ERM AN
n
P a sn m
n
WO MAN
,
Y o n c I TAL I AN G I R L ,
A J
'
"
m e t an -
,
A Y OU NG NO BLEM A N,
n
A LADY M a A G IAL L ANF ’
‘
AG NES S O R E L, '
A PE ASANT o r H AL L AU ; t u me ( Co a
A Y OU NG BAB E
t ur i e s), d l e th Ce n 1 4 th an
A S CO T I Is H CH IE F, '
‘
'
-
A Y O U NG V E NERIAN '
A L AD Y o r
‘
RAN" o r “
o r
R AN" ,
M I LAN,
'
A VENETIAN S OLDI ER, A L AD Y
BELO NGI NG
DAU PH INEss
TO
D AU VERG NE, ’
M I L ITARY CO S TU M E
( 1 5th
WO MAN o nTH E CAV AL I ER ( 1 7th Ce n t ury )
PEAS ANI ‘
‘
,
Y O U NG ITAL I AN
LADY
FR ENCH NO BLEM AN
n
a d 1 6 th
,
( 1 3 55)
CANTO N
t u r i e s) Ce n or
F R IB o uR c, -
A F REN C H L ADY O F
RAN "
.
H IS costume is ta ken from a minia of
ture entitle d
the manuscript
Eckecs
Am o u r eux
,
which is found in the R oyal
L ibrary of Paris
.
The wearer
,
a noble French lady is decked ,
with the sugar loaf head dress so -
-
commonly adopted during all of the fifteenth century
.
A band of blac k velvet
,
ornamente d with an edging of gold binds ,
her forehe ad ; the part of the robe which covers the breast is worked in black velvet above and in tissue of gold down to the ,
girdle ; the oute r robe is made of b lue vel
vet bor d ere d with gold and is lined and trimme d with crims on velvet ; t he ends o f ,
,
th e v
eil
sle e v e s are als o of is
velvet ;
of a whi te tr an sparent ,
gi rdl e is gr een
,
w
i th
golden ornaments ;
the por tion of the under ski r t which is seen -
below
is
vi ol e t ; the stockings are black
.
A G E R M A N NO B L E
A
GER M AN NOB LE
.
H I S costume is ta ken from
a
picture
of Pi nturicchio and ,
represents a nobleman in suite of the E mperor Fred at
pli g hted
the interview when he his fa i th to the Princess
H e wears a red hat held in its ,
place by a gre enish ribbon passing under ,
the chin
.
Th e
collar and the hood are yel
low bordere d i np art with gold .
.
The coa t
is whit e changing to a bluish tin t and is ,
,
terminated by a border of gold
.
Th e
stock
ings are re d ; the b oots of a yellowi s h color 2
r
,
and the
s
purs
ar e
silver
is red with gold b u tto ns ,
.
s w o rd belt
Th e
.
-
The case of the
sword is white with gilde d ornaments ,
Th e
.
Italian costumes fu rnish few example s
of the use of boots ; but the monu m ents of the northern nations prove that the French
,
the G erm ans and the E n glish very generally ,
availed themselves ing
t he
of
this
compelled doubtless ,
necessities of a mate
.
mod e of protect
co
ld
d an
moist cli
A P EA S A
NT
O F
T H E
G E I LT H A L
A P EA S AN T O F TH E G EILTH AL
.
HE dress of the men G e i lth al
of
,
in for
mer time s of an t r e m e ly
ex
peculiar fashion is ,
even at the present day unique and original the hair cut short
.
They
keep
Th e
high
.
crowned suga r loaf hat of a green -
,
or bl ac k color is daily becoming ,
m
ore rare among them ; the hat is now
more commonly worn with
a lo w
crown ;
it is mad e of felt in winter and in summer ,
of straw
Th e
.
neck is enci rcle d with a
plaite d frill sewe d to the shirt ,
.
The waist
coat is red and is fastened to the trowsers ,
3
by gr e en .
low e r
br aces ;
than
ings are slipp e rs
of
ar e
the doublet is brown ; the
the mid dle of the calf; the stock white worste d ; the .
made of bark
s
andals or
.
It is fro m the Illyrian peasantry and i n ,
G e i lth al
p articul ar those of
th e
Italian t h eatr e
borrowe d the dres s of
h as
That
'
of
,
th at
th e
the men as ,
des cribe d above be ars som e resembl a nce to ,
th e
in
costume of variou s burle squ e characte rs
th e
a ncient
sh
ows
.
3
A P E A S A N T W O M A N O F T H E G E ILT H AL
O F TH E G EI L TH AL -
.
HE w omen of G e i lth al
let
th e
th e i r
hair ha ng in long t w i sts
or red worsted kind of round
a
black ribbon
Th e y
.
he ad dr e ss
The
-
ca
p
,
which is
wear also a neckl ace
of glass bead s made to imitate coral ,
Th e i r
,
d an
a
short slee v e d j a ck et is us u ally -
"
pett i coa t and apron blue a
,
r ng ly contrast e d
st o
-
4
c
,
W i th
b or
olor ; wi de
ru ffl e s hang down at the e lbow ; and i nw i n ter a brown cloak covers the whole
Their
.
p e tticoats seldom re ach much lower than the kne e
.
This dress is extremely light
and well suite d
to
mountaineers
Their
.
,
the mode of life of these stockings are of white
or colore d worsted ; their sandals are tie d with ribbons or thon gs
.
waist is o neir
Th e
cle d with a girdle of black fur ad o rned with ,
mall plates of co pper ; up on it hangs a closed
s
knife
.
They seldom wear their hats unless ,
obli ged to do so by rain or the he at of the sun ; in general they carry them hanging by "
a ribbon to the arm
.
E NG L I S H
M U S IC IA N S
,
D i R E l G N O F E DW A R
E NGL IS H M USIC IANS R EI G N O F
ED W AR D
N
III
.
.
the houses of
great lords
,
musi
n occupied the
ci a s
first place among the class domestics
.
In early Saxon times the com mon pe ople had their bards who ,
received their support from the con t r i bu t i o n s
of the many
,
while the
kings had their minstrels as part of their househol d
.
A mong the Celtic races musicians h eld a still more imp ortant place in domestic life
,
and even in our own day it can hardly be 5
said that among the G all i c and Scotch ,
pe o
ples the class of iti nera n t perf ormers upon ,
th e
harp and the flute is e ntirely extinc t
a re co gnized element of soci ety
plate w h ich we give repr e sen t s
Th e g roup
.
of
simple musicians of the tim e
costume proves tha t a taste for the g ro tesque in dress at
th is
h ad
already made sensible progress
p eriod
.
DA U P H INE D A UV ERGNE ’
1 3 71
— 14 16
.
.
H IS medi aeval cos tu m e so bizarr e to ,
our mod e rn eyes is ,
yet so sim ple in its details that no description is ne eded
.
A nne D Au v e r gne was the wife of L ouis II D uc D e Bourbon who gaine d so many victories over the ’
,
,
Shortly afte r his marriage the
G enoese solicite d the aid of France against the pirates of the Barbary States who were ,
making continual inroads upon their com merc e ; the
Du e
d e B ourbon demanded and
obtained the command of the tr 0 0 ps which 6
H aving set
were sent to their re lief
.
the mo n t h of May
1 39 1
,
t in
ou
with twenty t hous
and men and disembarking at the b eginning ,
,
of t he summer in sight of the an cient city of ,
Carthage he invested that place and in a ,
,
single
twice defeate d the King of Tunis
d ay
who was force d to
for pe ace
s ue
,
O n his
.
re tu rn he gave cha se to the Saracens whose ,
vessels infested the Me diterranean and afte r ,
a c r uise of a
fe w
of G eno a i nt h e ,
m o nth s
re
m idst
of
,
-
entered the por t th e
acclamati on s '
of a people who h aile d him as their li berator S oo nafter
,
.
the protracted illness of the Kin g
of France force d the
Du e
de Bourbon to
assum e the adminis tration of the govern ment
.
H istory has recorded nothing remarkable of the wife of this Prince whom our plate r
epre sents in the costume of the time
.
A Y O U NG
LA C AL Z A V E N E T IA N B E LO N G I NG TO T H E S O C I ET Y O F .
A YOUNG or
V
TH E S O CI ETY
or
ENETIAN “
L A CAL Z A
.
HE Society of
La
”
Calza was an asso ci at i o ‘
i
n of you ng Vene
ti a n noblemen and a few stran of
high rank who with ,
the sanction of the magistrates
,
bound themselves by the ties of reciprocal friendship and had ,
fo r
their obj ect the pursuit of honor able p leasures
.
exp en se public ,
at r i c al
They f é te s ,
g ave at t heir own
accomp anied with the
repr e sentations
.
They
to
d iscourse
to
cele brate masquerades
met together
music to hold gondola race s ,
,
,
and for every
HI S
kind
of
TORI CAL
COS
TUMES
innocent a m u sement
.
In o r der to
.
recognize each other in the public t he y
f é t e s,
wore the right s t ocking ornamente d
with various c o lors and eve nwith
em
,
eries of gold Th e
,
o
f
silver or
pe arls
of
br o i d
.
young man of this Society whom our
plate represents is drawn and colored after a picture of
Car pacci a
A c ademy of
F ine
preserved in
,
A rts at
V enice
th e
The
.
bonnet is of violet velve t enriche d with ,
golden embroideries and ornam e nts
;
the
jacket is of gre en velvet with a narr o w ,
r ed
border below the d oublet is black and ‘
,
p ermits the shirt to be seen ; the left stock ing is adorned with
w
hite and black stripe s
the right stocking is
'
carlet ornamente d
s
wit h two palm branche s
,
,
d an
with an em
broide ry of pearls upon the thigh ; the gloves are yello w
.
A Y O U NG
G I R L O F T H E C A NT O N
S C H WY T Z
.
YOUN
G
GIRL
O F TH E CANTO N S CH W Y 'I‘ Z
.
HE costume of w o men and young girls in S ch w y t z ,
th e
Canton
of
and es pecially in
the chief place of that name characterized by a certain
,
de
gree of sti ff ness and a pproaches ,
the ancient French taste
;
it is
something between the dress of the peasant and the citizen
.
It follows
,
the caprices of fashion and is subj ect ,
to various cha nges Th e
.
ordinary and more or less modern
dres s of the inhabitants consists at the pres 8
HIS
TORI CAL
CO S
TUMES
.
ent tim e of a bl ack woolen corset bordered ,
with silken trimmings ; a skirt in part wool
,
ornamented with blu e stripes or flowers
,
,
c o vere d with a linen apron of vario us colors ; white cotton sto ckings ; shoes ornamented with little silver buckles
.
Th e
hair is gath
ered into a t w ist at the back of the h e ad ; the principal ornament co nsists of an orig inal and unique coif compose d of com mon ,
and co arse laces
,
r i sm
g
in two enormous
butterfly wi ngs betwe en which rests a tis ,
sue
of
arti fi cial flow e rs intermingle d with ,
tinsel and fastened by a large silver e agle ,
set
t ransversely
d r e ss,
singular as
in the hair it
.
This
head
is does not fail to be ,
pleasing when it decks the head of some pretty blond e
.
It is naturally less
be
c o mi ng to ladies of a certain age when the ,
hair is gray and p owdered 8
.
Finally as a ,
yo ung wome n
pr ayers
.
AN E N G LI S H LAD Y
,
"
IS
”
C E NT U R Y
)
AN ENGL IS H LADY
.
F I FTEE NTH
CE NTU R Y
.
IS costume
be
longs to the close of the fifteenth cen '
tury and ,
is
one of the
most elegant of this epoch
.
This
no b le lady wears over her breast an article fashion
of
attire of a peculiar
which was very generally
adopted about the end of the te e n th
fif
and the beginning of the sixteenth
centuries
H er dress is also characterized
.
by the lon g trailing sleeves of the chemise ,
,
similar in mode to those of the men of the times
.
A G E R M A N FA L C O N E R
.
A GER M AN F AL C ONE R .
HE chase was of all ,
othe rs
,
th e
am use
ment for which the northern nations of E urop e had the strongest attach ment and which together with ,
,
right
o
f
th e
we aring
sword
,
t he
co
n
stitute d their dearest privilege
.
Frederic II E mp eror of G ermany himself ,
,
comp ose d a tre atise upon the nature and the care they re quired
.
o
Inthis
f
birds
,
treatise
the modes of raising birds of prey such as ,
the sparrow haw k and the falcon are ex -
,
plaine d in full This
.
costume is taken from a precious 10
HIS
TORI CAL
CO S
th e
man u script preserve d in Vatican of this
TUMES
.
L ibrary of the
It would app ear that -
.
falconer
employe d in
th e
.
livery
th e
was common to all th ose imperial chase
.
Th e
bonnet is furnished with red cords
white
B ands
.
,
alternately violet white and gre en cross the ,
,
coat all of which are embroidered with red
.
,
coat is
Th e
well as in
O
pen from the girdle down as
t he
,
u
pper part to allow
th e
he ad
to pass throug h but is closed over the breast ,
by buttons w
.
Th e
unde r sle e ves are blue -
ith black cords
The hose are b rown
.
glove of t h e hand upon which the falcon
Th e
is borne is gray
The violet hat which ,
.
hangs over the shoulders is ,
cord
.
.
Th e
belt
or
gre en bag is black ,
girdle ,
h eld
by a
r ed
which carries a ’
.
H e holds a bird s wing
,
deck ed with a piece of scarlet ribbon as an ,
emblem of his employment 10
.
G E H M AN
P E AS A NT
A YO U NG GERM AN
P EA S AN T
W O M AN
.
H IS dress is so sim ple that no tion is needed
d es cr i p .
It is
from the great G erm an on costume by Kr e t sch custom of drawing
to
gether the outer garment in front so
as to form a graceful drapery o n
back was long practised by the G er ,
man p easantry and has not yet f allen ,
t i r e ly
into disuse
.
eu
The col o rs of the di ffer
ent garments as represented in the plate ,
,
are those most generally adopted by the p easants
.
A Y O U NG I T A L I AN G I R L
.
A
YO U N G
ITALI AN G IRL
.
is easy to per ce i ve ,
by O bserving
the ancient paint ings and the monuments of the R enaissance that the young ,
I t alian girls retained even in the ,
thirte enth and fourteenth centu ries the custom of allowing the hair to grow and of p ermitting it to float ,
fre ely up on the shoulders after the manner ,
of the early L ombards
.
This mode was
even employed as a si gn of distinction twe en marrie d women and young girls
be
.
A s to the dress of women in gene ral after ,
the p overty of the earlier age s w as suc ceeded 12
by an excessive degre e of magni fi cence there ,
arose so many vari ations that it is difficult to make a choice among the numerous cos
,
tu m
es
which fill the pictures of this epoch
Th e
figur e here represented
.
which is
,
taken from a painting of Pinturicchio has ,
so much of the character of a portrait that there can be little doubt of the authenticity of th e costume depicted
.
Th e
in its mode of adjustment th e
,
robe imit ates
th e
,
drapery of
antique statues ; it is without sle eves
,
and is se cured u pon the shoulders by golden clasps ; it is of a violet color
.
Th e
bodice
,
the sleeves and the stockings are woven of a
tissue
Of
gold
.
A small , yellowish veil
,
from which her black lock s e scap e and float u
p on the sh o ulders p artly covers the top ,
of the head t ume
.
In other paintings this cos ,
is repeate d with the addit i on of a ligh t
h o ulder s
s
,
A
J
U GGLE R
.
HE figure here rep resente d was taken a manuscript of
R oman de la R ose pre served i nthe R oyal L ibrary at ,
Brusse ls Th e
.
jugglers occupied them
selves by turns with sleight p erformances
with dances
,
p oetry with mu sic et c ,
.
,
13
of
,
hand wi th
A YO U NG
D U CH ES S
I3
TH
C E NT U R Y
.
A
YO U NG D UC HE SS CENT U RY
T IIIR I EE NTH ‘
’ ‘
.
.
HE accompanying rich and elegant cos tume has been ex tracte d from a picture by the D uc de Seyde
who
,
died in the flower of his years a ,
,
victim to his passio nfor art was celebrated both and engraver d an
.
as
He
.
painter
A t once the fri end
rival of A lbert D urer a noble emula ,
tion led them often to treat the same sub
j e ct s and the friendship which unite d them was expresse d by a frequent inter ,
change
Of
their works
.
Th e
picture from
which the present costume has been 14
opie d
C
HI S
is
o
TOR I CAL
C OS
TUM ES
.
ne of the most pre cious ornaments of
the A cadem y of Fine A rts at Pisa
.
The young D uchess who is here
re
pr e
sente d wears up on her head a small white h o od covere d with a black bonnet ed ged with gold ; upon this rests a golden crown ,
.
The chem i sette is white trimmed with a ,
light band of gold and closed ,
with a golden button
.
at
the neck
Through th e Op en
ing of the chemisette may be seen the neck of the chemise which is edged with lace ,
.
The under dress is black ornamented with -
,
p earls across the breast and over the shoul ders
.
She we ars a little medal attache d to
a re d cord passing around the neck
.
The
outer robe is of golden brocade the open ,
ing on the sid e of which is brought together by rich clasps permitting ,
be se en
.
th e
under skirt to -
A golden chain is thro w n about
HIS
th e
TORI CAL
CO S
TUM ES
.
shoulders and hangs low in front ,
The
.
large sle eves are made of some li ght ma t e r i al
of a yellowish hue changing to a lake
color
an d
,
,
are fas t ene d at the shoulders by
two black lacets permitting ,
be seen
chemi se
to
under sleev e s of red velvet
Th e
.
th e
-
,
,
are tight but fuller around the hands which ,
th ey
,
partly cover ; they also have slashes
upon the arm s which are laced with small ,
wh ite la cets
,
allowing
to be see n beneath
another white sleeve
.
A blue gir d le with
re d cords clasped with a ri ch cameo sur ,
rou n ds the waist
,
.
Th e
shoes are black
.
A
YO U NG NO B LE M AN
.
H IS costume is
re
m ark able for th e fulness of the sleeves
,
the stripes of pinking over the body of the coat fulness
,
d an
This
.
the lavish use of
b ells indicate a dress designed ,
a festal occasion as well as the ,
high rank of the wearer
Th e
.
he ad dress consists of a twisted turban of -
gay
colors de ck e d ,
w
ith high fe athers 15
.
A LADY AND A
G AL LANT
.
1 79 5
.
HE
notic e a b le
m ost
features in the cos tume of the gallant which the plat e represents are the excessively high cra vat
,
th e
v
ari egated hose the short ,
waist of the coa t and the dupli ,
cate fob chains -
.
Th e
extra v a gance
of the costume in these particulars beyond that whi ch to g ether with the
is
common to the time
great
len gth of
th e
hair
,
,
ive the cha r acter somethin s g of a dandy g ish app e ar ance
.
This e ff ect
is
till f urther
s
heightene d b y a stri k ing contrast of colors 16
.
lady
,
as r eprese nted
in
p late
more modestly and tastefully dr e sse d “
,
co stu me be ari ng a slig ht re semblan ce -
the
yles now in vogue
st
.
Thes e figur e s are taken from Kretschmer .
.
AGNE S S OREL
.
S O REL or ,
Sorean mistress of ,
Charles VII King ,
of France was born i nth e ,
village of Frome nteau in Tou ,
raine
.
She was the daughter of
the Seigneur Saint G eraud -
,
a
no b leman attache d to the house of the C ount de C lermont
.
Wi t h the
advantages of anelaborate education added to
her natural gifts she came as maid ,
,
honor to the D uchess
d An jo u
of France i n th e year
’
1 431
.
,
-
of
to the court
A gnes who ,
was called the M aid of Fromenteau was then i n the full bloom of her beauty and ,
17
e asily captivated the heart of the King
In
.
order to attach h e r to his court he conferred ,
upon her the p osition of maid
-
of
the "ue en The E nglish were then masters
— honor
to
.
kingdom of France u r all
y
.
of
half the
Charles though nat ,
brave had fallen into a profou nd ,
ap athy in conse quence of a feebl e ness of charact e r which u nfi tt e d him for the struggle
A gnes alone succeede d in recalling him to a sense of what was due against misfortune
.
to his own glory and that of his pe o ple She died In Nor m andy
,
w
hither she
gone to warn the King of a conspiracy 17
.
.
h ad
A
P EA S AN T O F
H AL LAU
.
HE peasant of H al lau wears a lar g e black
,
three cornere d -
,
and in addition dur ,
in g
the winter a blac k bonnet ,
or leathern cap which he also ,
wears at work when he has not his hat
.
This bonnet once put on ,
is rarely removed from
hi s
head
,
.
A round his neck he we ars a black silk cra vat which is tied on the nap e of the neck ,
.
The j ack et or short coat is mad e of line n ,
or
sometimes of some
t e r i al
.
w
oolen or cotton ma
It is only in winter that he wears
as here represented a kind of scarlet waist ,
18
,
HI S
TOR I CAL
COS
TUM ES
.
coat with white or yell ow metal buttons ,
.
A b ove this waistcoat (and in summer i m me diately over the shirt) may be seen the gallowses an indisp ensable feature in the ,
costu m e of the inhabitan t of this district ; t hese ar e
sometimes of silk
as here of leather ,
.
d an
sometim e s
,
pu ff e d trowsers
,
,
Th e
known under the name of p lu mp
-
bo son are ,
made of bl ack w o olen or cotton goods ; they are very full and han g in nu m erous folds ,
The knit woolen or
otton stock ings are
c
fas t ene d to the trowsers
.
In place of
buckles the shoes have leather strings ,
.
,
co v
ered by a strip of leath e r of the same length as the shoe s -
.
A Y O U NG
L AD Y
.
I4
ND A H O E C 8 A F R N F O M E U T L L S O (C T “
8
C E NT U R Y
,
A YO U NG LADY
.
CO S TU ME O F FRANCE AND H OLL AND IN THE F OU R TEEXTII
AND
F IF TEENTH
CENTU RIES
.
HE young woman who figures in the accompanyin g plate holds in her hand a feather of the
p eacock
.
In
th e
fourteenth and fifte enth centuries
,
the p eacock the pheasant and the ,
heron were to the
hevaliers of
C
what the Styx was to the gods of f able
.
Whenever an important enterprise was u
ndertake n a p eacock or a pheasant some ,
,
times roasted
,
bu t
always arrayed in 19
i ts
HIS
TOR I CAL
C O S TU M ES
.
most be autiful plumage was carrie d with ,
great so lemnity by marrie d ladie s or maid ens i n a large silver or go lden basin into ,
,
th e
,
midst of the numerous a ssembly of
knights
It was prese nte d in turn to each
.
hevalier and e a ch
C
,
o
ne made his vow o ver
the bird ; it was then p laced upon the ta ble to b e distribute d to all ceremony Th e
w
ass iste d in the
ho
.
fi gure
here given
painting of L ucas
de
taken from a
,
Seyde wi ll serve as ,
a typ e of the general costume of of France
th e
women
H olland and Italy during
,
fourte enth and fifte enth centuries
th e
.
The head dress of this young woman con -
sists of a kind of turban ,
o
f
a ros e color
.
The middle band is black as w e ll as the ,
small bonnet which falls over her ears ; the border of the bonnet is of g o ld
,
n the
a d
HI S
TORI CAL
embroideries of silver
TUMES
COS
.
A light white vei l
.
,
covers her forehead envelops a lock of hair ,
under the ear and passing back over the ,
,
turban is tie d upon the top leaving the ,
,
end to float over the shoulders i se tt e
chem
Th e
.
is white and is adorne d with golden ,
buttons and embr o i deries
Th e
.
some g r e en material and is ,
e
trim m ings and fillet s of gold
robe is of
nriched with .
short
Th e
sle eve is bound by a lacet and so m e golden o rnaments so
The un d er sleeve is of crim -
.
n velvet through the ,
is se en the chemis e is laced
by
p enings
Th e
“
ar m
O
.
tw o
which
of
slash under the
s m all black cords
.
The cloak is whit e changi ng to a blue and ,
,
is ornam e nte d with a gold e n border girdle is violet and ,
th e 19
Th e
.
hose are bl ack
.
A
WO M AN
OF
IST R IA
.
HE costume of the Istrians is subj ect to fre quent modifications
,
general character is as The men wear a
lo w ,
black
felt hat with so narrow a brim ,
that it aff ords no protection from either the sun or the rain hair
cropp e d short
O ver
.
Their
.
a shirt with a
narrow collar they don a short white j ack et
,
of coarse woolen cloth the sle eves of which ,
are turne d back to the shoulder
Their
.
trowsers are black or of w h ite and bro w n ,
strip es and are tie d below the k ne e ,
20
.
Most
of them carry at the girdle a pouch into ,
which they place
all
sorts of knick knacks -
Their stock ings are generally of wors t e d and their shoes ,
leather Th e
ar e
w
.
hite
of undresse d
.
women both in sum mer and winter ,
,
wear gowns of white lin e n ; over which in the cold season which is of short duration ,
,
they thr ow an over garment of some dark -
material
The hair is comb ed back over the
.
head which ,
is
covere d with a turban of
white linen so twi ste d that one end of this ,
head ge ar falls up on the left shoulder -
.
The
chemise covers the entire neck and falls in ,
numerous folds liar form
.
.
Their shoes are of a
pe cu
They we ar ab o ut their waist a
girdle within which they are fond of setting ,
a
p osy of flowers
To this girdle also is
.
attached the distaff which is the i nd i spe nsa ,
20
these w ome n .
A .
SC O TT IS H C HI E F
.
T I M E O F EDWARD I
.
AND
R O B ERT B RU CE
.
HE r e pr ese n ta tion of a ship with clouds flying above on the ,
buck ler of this warrior leads ,
us to conj ecture that this p ersonage was a descendant of the ancient kings of the Norwegian race “
;
a lord of the isle s
.
lion rampant
”
Th e
at the base
of
the shield surrounde d by a k ind of plait ,
denotes some
afli li at i o
,
n with the ki ngs of
Scotland ; and this last circumstance may lead to the discovery of the nam e of the Chief
.
The costume agre es perfectly 21
w
ith
HI S
TORI CAL
COS
TUM E S
.
the ide a which we form of the Scottish warri ors before their league with F rance as
Froissart describes the m
.
This
,
hist o rian
says th at they were very i m perfe ctly
co v
ered with defe nsive armor prior to the time of Charles VI who se nt to their aid a bod y ,
of French knights together with the suits ,
of mail obtained by the disarmament of seditious P arisians
.
chief here represente d leans upon
Th e
a lance ;
u
p on
h is
head he wears a small
linen coif such as distinguishe d most of the ,
A nglo S axon warriors long before the epoch -
in qu e stion
.
Th e
form of his b uckler as ,
well as that of his large sword b e longs to ,
the time Th e
the
r
eign above me ntion e d
p urse which he carries is also an
ide n ce of Th e
d an
the
.
ev
antiquity of thi s costume
.
shell is a kind of trump et c arried for
purpos e
sou n ding
This figure was
co
appeal pie d
a larg e
mo n ument which behind
at
I o na or
Ico ln i ki ll ‘
.
YO UNG
V ENE T I AN O F
L ATTE R P ART O F TH E F O U R TEE NTH
T
RAN "
CE NTU RY
.
.
is supposed that
the origin and even the liberty of the .
famo u s rep u blic of Venice back beyond the Middle
A ges and ,
th e
Ve netia ns boast
of n e ver havi ng at any period be en s ubj ect b ar i an s
to
the y o ke of the bar
.
The c o stume of a young Venetian here ,
rep resented
,
though more common near ,
the close of the fourteenth cen tury to ,
th e
young n obles of other countries than Italy b elonge d
especially to t his most opulent and 22
Ven ezz i a la bella
gallant of all cities this
'
,
,
whose lagoon s were so gay with rich
gon
dolas and with vestments of silk of velvet ,
,
and of gold
,
.
The representation of a you n g Venetia n here g iven is taken from a picture of Crivelli preserve d in the gallery of
B i ér a at
H is head is covere d by a bonnet
o
f
,
Milan .
scarlet
w o ol su ch as was generally worn by the ,
young men of the time
.
mall velvet
Th e
s
cloak of a lake color is line d with similar ,
,
materi al but of a gre e n color edge d with ,
,
gold ; the borde r of the cloak about the neck above whic h is se e n the e dge of the ,
shirt collar -
,
which is n ot
is also of gold ,
as
.
Th e
cloak
in many similar costumes
,
op e n on the side is throw n up on the left “
“
,
should er and p artly covers ,
Th e
th e
right hand
.
co llar band is of gold and is enriche d -
,
22
HI S
TORI CAL
COS
TUM ES
.
with rows of p earls and pre cious stones
.
The doublet i s sky bl u e ornamented with sil -
,
ver
flo w
er
-
work ; the crimson ve l v et sleeve
dashed with gold open from the wrist to ,
the elbow shows the shir t be neath and is ,
,
brought to g ether by red lacets
.
Th e
slash
in the side of the double t is adorne d wit h a
b raid stitched
w
ith gold
Th e
.
border below
con sists of a b and of gold lace ornam ente d ,
w
ith embroidere d work of a lake color
.
Th e
girdle is of green velvet edg ed with gold ,
The
h ose
.
are made of scarlet cloth ; the
shoes are red and are la ce d with a yellow ,
cord ; or yellow laced with a red cord ,
.
The
lance be ars a stre am er which is white abov e
nre d below
a d
,
.
LADY
OF
RAN"
OF
MILAN
.
CL OS E OF TH E F IF TEENTH CENT U RY
.
H IS elegant costume is taken from a min i at u r e
others
,
which
,
with
ornaments a small
boo k of prayers
.
The exe
and finish of these precious paintings leave no room for doubt concerning the epoch to which they belong fi xed
tury
.
The date may b e
as near the close of the fifte enth cen
.
This
lady has he r head dresse d with a
small white bonnet bordered with pearls -
,
and enriche d with precious stones 23
.
The
HIS
TORI CAL
TUM ES
COS
.
cloak is red with go lde n embroideries and ,
gre en lining
Th e
.
outer r o b e is mad e of
some white material bordere d with gold ,
d an
having a lining of a lak e color
inner robe is blue
.
Th e
Th e
.
stockings are cri m
son and are adorned with golden spangles ,
.
Th e
sleeves belong to the outer rob e ; they
have a li n ing of dere d with gold
a .
lake color and ,
Th e
small
ar e
bor
ord whic h
c
pass e s over the forehead and is adorned ,
with a pre cious stone is black ; the hair is ,
allo w e d to fall u n confine d
.
ladies of this p eriod as many
Th e
,
of
the contemp orary paintings show were in ,
the ha bit
of
carrying their b ook of prayers
in a kin d of a silken or velvet bag richly ,
worke d ed
.
Th e
noblewoman here re present
holds her book O pen up on this e nvelop
ment which is here of crimson velvet ,
23
.
A S O L D IE R
.
A
V ENE T I AN
S OLDIER LTH O U G H
medi aeval
the
military
costumes w ere as varie d as are those of our day yet styles not ,
t fe r e n
m aterially
dif
from that of the Venetian
soldier we have here given are found in the old illuminate d books of m
any of the E uropean natio n s This .
soldier though doubly arme d has on but ,
,
compara t ively little armor which was falli ng ,
g radually into disuse at this ti me
consists
of
.
Th e
dress
a j acket and bree ches which ,
are made very full and b ound down with ,
bands at short distances 24
,
forming pu ff s
.
de r
-
garment s
w
,
7
is
a
hite
.
Th e
long
mark e d
color wh i ch
dres s do e s not ,
,
was s ometimes e rs of a de ep or an ge
.
A LADY ’ S U I TE O F TH E DAU P H IN ESS D AU VER G NE
B ELO NG ING T O
.
HE costume here presented
of
re
a lady
in the suite of A nne D Au v e r g n e, ’
wife of L ouis II
,
D uc de B ourbon is copie d from an armorial record of A uvergne ,
.
This lady came to the court of F rance with the D auphiness in
1 8 71
.
It was in the fourteenth century that the custom b egan of blazoning armorial b earings up on the dress ; but it was not till the
r
eign of Charles V that the custom
be came general in F rance 25
.
M E D IA E VA L
M I LI T A R Y C O S T U M E
A M IL IT A RY C O ST UM E F I FTEE NT H
AND S IX TEE NTH CENT U R I E S
.
.
H E fi g u r e fr o m which this costume is
opied has too
C
much of the character of p ortr ait to permit of any certainty concerning its t i ci ty
.
u
n
au th e n
A lthough of a much later
date it has nevertheless some of ,
,
,
the traits p eculiar to certain cos tu m
es
in the painti ngs of G iotto preserved ,
Camp o Santo of Pisa head
protected by a kind of white
is
bo nnet or hat
.
.
H e wears a d r ess op en on
the sides made of an earth colored cloth -
,
HI S
TORI CAL
COS TUM
S
.
with a turne d down coll ar of bla ck v e lvet -
He
is arme d with a sabre suspende d
leather strap
.
Th e
gilde d furnishings dish yell ow color
,
.
scabbar d is black with ,
The hose d an
ar e
of a red
the boots
with white reverse d to ps
black
taken
represents the Crucifixi on ; it is by Verona and b e ars ,
th e 26
,
.
The picture from which this of
.
date M D I
M ichael .
P E A S A NT
WO
M AN O F T H E C AN T O N F R I B O U R G
.
P EA S AN T
A
W O M AN
OF TH E CANTO N OF FR IB O U R G , IN F E S TAL H AB I T
.
IS costume di ffers in every resp ect from that of the French or
R omance p easants
.
The head
is dressed in a blac k b onnet or cap surmounte d with a crown ,
of arti ficial flowers of various colors
,
g roup e d
harmoniously and ,
b ound b y a silver cord
.
The
hair is
p arted upon the forehead and falls b ehind ,
in
tw
o
fre e floating masses confine d by a ,
,
ribb on varying from scarlet to green
.
A round the neck is an anti q ue linen ru ff of
a b luish tint
.
A fine black or de e p 27
bro w n under waist
garnish e d with black
-
,
velve t ribbons covers the arms and
the
,
shoulders in
W inter ,
while in summer beau r u flle s ,
tifu l white linen sle eves with lace ,
extend from a scarlet b odice from
w hich
,
h angs a p etticoat of th e
th e
same color
A bove
.
ru ffs that s urroun d the neck th ey w ear
a black neck pie ce of cut velvet adorned -
,
with black velvet ribbons
The corselet is
.
lace d over the breast with ribbons of vari ous
olors mingle d with silver and
c
gold ;
,
and over this a silver chain upon
w
,
hich is
h u ng a silver box of an oval shape which ,
is calle d Agnu s B ed and whi ch is more or ,
less richly work ed ac cording to the ,
of the wearer hind
by
A black silk apron tie d ,
be
a large ribbon wo rk e d with varie
gate d fl owe rs th e
.
fortune
,
or
with silver and gold after ,
manner of a scarf completes this singu ,
27
lar ly
rich apparel which u p on a bea u tiful p erson shows to fine e ff ect and which b e ,
,
,
,
sides re calls
f orc i bly th e
dressing
costumes
of
is
very
or dinary co n si sting of white stockings
d an
Th e
of
the feet and legs
the
,
blac k sho es wi th larg e silv e r buckles
.
O nly
crown
privilege of wearin g
all
women are dresse d ,
with the crown
.
Marri e d
r e sp e cts lik e
black cap is not
m ai d ens except that o ff
leather
P ointe d heels have grown into
.
gradual disuse
set
or
.
A C A VA LI E R
A C AVA L I E R SEVENTEENTH CENTU RY
.
.
RE SS at this epoch had undergone great changes in many of the
countrie s of E uro p e
B oots were v
.
b eginnin g to
ery generally used and the ,
trun k s
”
some ti m e
or
b r e e ches which
h ad
,
b e en short
extende d below the kne e
.
w
,
fo r
er e
The small
cloa k which had b e en previously worn across the b ack was now place d on the left shoulder
.
The hair
w as
worn lo ng
and curled ; lar g e collars edge d with lace
,
and even lace tr i m m ings to the boots were ,
28
m u ch
vogue
Th e
cane wh i ch into such ge neral use app e ared about .
,
,
this time
.
The ex act style of c o stume here
r e p resente d p r ev ailed Fran ce about the time of R ichelieu 23
.
A YO U N G
ITA
LI A N
LA D Y
'
12 6
C)
A Y O U NG IT AL IAN LADY
.
F TER observing th e an cient paintings it ,
is easy to perceive that
,
if the costume of women in gen eral j ustified the p assa g e of laws to restrain their too great
m ag
nifi ce nce of dress nevertheless ,
the costume of youn g gi rls always u
nited modesty with richness and -
,
to disarm the most severe censors
.
A mbroise L orenzetti did not de em the cos tume here represented unworthy to deck the blesse d ones in his picture of The L ast J
udgment ; it is from this wor k that the
accomp any in g fi gure is ta k en 29
.
TORI CAL
HIS
Th e
CO S
TUMES
.
outer rob e is of a rose color and is ,
edged with gold
Th e
.
unde r dress is bright -
b lu e and p e rmits the collar of the che m ise to show Th e s le eve s O pen from the elbow ,
.
to the wrist edge d and lace d with a golden ,
cor d showing another w h ite sle eve beneath ,
Th e
.
hair tho u gh held back by a small ,
chain falls fre e upon her shoulders ,
,
as w as
then the custom with all you ng girls before their marriage Th e W ith
shoes are
gold
th e
dr e ss of
Of
blue velvet embroide r e d ,
.
R icordano tra sts
.
r
i th e M ale spi n ,
historia n con ,
ich n ess of this c o s t ume
t h e F lorentines
w
ith the
prior to the year
1 260
Then
‘
th e
inhabitants of Florenc e were
sober ; their fo od was simp le sive but their ,
m anners
d in an e x en p
were good
.
They
did
despise the coarse st stuff s
dr e ss or ,
d an
cove re d themselves with simple skins plain b onnets of
.
A narrow p ettico at
a c o a r se mate r ial of
scarlet col o r
,
and
g oat
’
m ad e
s hair of a ,
gathere d around the
w
a i st
by a le a thern girdle havi n g a b uckle ,
’
a
a cloak line d with minever wi th
l cm tzgu c ; '
,
a hood at the back —such was the dress with
which
th e
'
women were content
” .
A
F REN C H
NOB LEM AN
.
1 36 5
.
O
WARD the end of
the reig n of King J
ohn fashionable gen
t le m e n b e g an
to pink the bor
ders of their robes ; but under Charles V this b ecam e the rage
,
and continued into the fifte enth century
.
The fashion continue d
also of wearing long half sle eves
,
app endages embroidere d with gold or long ,
ribbons re aching to the grou nd 239 220 9 6 ,
Charles V the
.
U nder
or presidential cap
was laid aside and in its place were ,
stitute d two
w
id e
ép au li ér es , 30
su b
or shoulder
,
HIS
pieces ,
TOR I CAL
CO S
TUM E S
.
which forme d at the same time false
sle eves and a false coll ar
The queue of the
.
hood gre atly lengthene d during the reig n ,
J
of King
ohn and after his death ,
,
w
as
prolonge d till it reache d the ground in the ,
form of a cord which was sometimes ,
around the head
There
.
ion certai n kinds
of
t ied
were also in fash
cardinals or pelisses
,
with several q u eues or pinke d in various ,
ways
and worn
,
Noblemen
O
ften on the shoulders
ordinarily wore
cha es ,
p
.
or caps ;
for gre at occasions they wore a large clo ak O
p en on the right or having two slits from ,
the bre ast down and furnished w i th an ,
ép i tog e u
.
A rmorial be arings were very little
sed except on state occasions ; p e ople con
tented themsel v es with taki ng the armorial colors for their ordi nary garments ; hence s u its of two -
d an
sometimes three colors
.