Milady's Aesthetician Series Permanent Makeup Tips and Techniques [1 ed.] 1401881734, 9781401881733

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Permanent Makeup: lips and Techniques ,

PAMELA HILL, R.N.

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Permanent Makeup: Tips and Techniques

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Permanent M akeup: Tips and Techniques PAMELA HILL,RN CONTRIBUTING AUTHOR

JUDITH CULP, CIDESCO, CPCP

~• * CENGAGE .- Learning-

Auitn,111 • Ind!• japan • loru • Meitko • Silipc,o,e • :Spain• United ltkladom • United Stattt:

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~•

CENGAGE

1 "'

Learning·

Mllldy'I Allthetlclan Serfes: P9m\anlnt Makeup: Tlpund T>chniquff Pamela HIii ContrlbutJnt Alrthon netwolb, ng. scann t xcept 15 permitted under Sectfon or Information storage and retrleva I sys ems, e he I I 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without t pr or wr tten pennlnlon of the poblfsher.

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For pn,doct lnf-ormaUon aod techno'°B:Y assistance, contact us at Ceng11e Le1mlng Customer & Sain support, 1-800-JS4·9706

For permission to use matt: n,,v\ ,, .,., I ¼11' f, busi~es~nging from c~eanser~ an moisturizers to ou tions and l r,Jft/ b 'eye s k~ 0 s. These ptodt4ts ire h~!{>ln~eople ~mprove their ~ppearance· and if that were not enouura tre~1'-"1ments to improve the• skin now lll'l~, ,711lngthrn1111hthebody:blar.kbll~ )!!lkril bile, bk,od, and phlegm. Hippocratic oath

Oathllll:enbyallphysie1Wrala11Veto th,p,.,11:eofmedlclneandoreatedby ~ppacral,s.

Ayu.rveda lndlanthe"}datlngbolklD251lla~ a as tha sol•10• ol lMng Ay""de defl~theessenualslhal.ware

pemeNed" belnu "'""''1Y ~ hOIMl

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CHAPTER 1 1400AD

Henry IV Issues the Order of the Bathe. women opt for llghter skin as opposed to makeup.

2000 BO

Indians

devise "Otzl the Iceman• bears tattoos.

Fu XI writes the Trigrams.

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45008C 400080 6000 00

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First example of tattooing surfaces in Egypt.

Figure 1-1

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Hippocrates names the Four Humors,

\500 BC 10008C

BC \3000 BC 2500 BC

4000 BC

400BC

Ayurveda, Romans start using chalk as makeup.

3300 BC 5000BC

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500BC

20008C

3000 BC

1000 BC

Egyptians start using unguent as makeup.

Polynesians practice taiau.

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1000 AD I

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t

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790AO Pope

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t500AO

2000AO ~

19BOAD

Flappers popularize use of makeup again.

Perm&lllrj

ma-..

ln-deman4! prooedln.

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j800AD I

l

1880 AD

Samuel O'Rellly Invented the eleotrlc tattooing machine.

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I 1eJAO

1790 AD

1G50AO

1821fAD

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ffl ~

1930AO

1910 AD

1945 AD

Soldiers Max Factor Captain make and James Cook Hadrian tattooing Mabelline introduces prohibited all forms of thewestem begin selling more visible. makeup. II worfdto tattooing. tattoo.

Evolution of skin care.

Some of the most remarkable advancements in medicine and aesthetics, however, have been made in the last 25 years (Figure 1-1). Understanding epidermal cellular migration, dermal collagen content, and advanced wound healing have allowed the development of procedures and products that can truly affect the skin. Notably, though, these advancements created chaos and fragmentation in industries such as the retail product industry, the medical industry, and the spa and skin care industry. The skin health industry is further fragmented into segments that treat skin disease and those that treat skin aging, leaving consumers many choices. Combine these choices with the abundance of products and services that claim to fight the effects of aging and consumers may wonder, "Where do I go and for what?"

~f:>f )'-JI • HISTORY AND ORIGIN S

OF PERMANENT MAKEUP

unguent SalYe or ointment used to promote healing.

~he ~story .of pe~ anent ~ akeup has two c~~~t histories. One t1~elme begin~ w1!h the h1storx.&.f skin care and makeup. Beginninfl ~11th the !gyptians use of tl'& it~i and moving into the use of lipst1~ m the t~enth ceb'trry, women have always desired makeup. During the B?sruan war, a woman would give up extra food items and soap-anything for the house that she did not a~~~ly need. She would

INTRODUCTION TO PERMMood In latrnd"'-

Dermis Below the epidermis, the dermis resides. The dermis provides the vital function of attaching skin to body (Figure 2- 3). The dermis is crisscrossed with three types of fibers that lend strength and elasticity. These fibers-reticula, collagen, and elastinform a network that creates stability for the skin. Type I collagen runs throughout the dermis and io responoible for its tensile strength and for providing skin its youthful appearance of tightness, firmness, and full ness (Baumann, 2002). The combined strength of these tissues anchors the epidermis above to the subcutaneous tissue below.

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ceramidea

Cls,sofipid.,tltaldooota,~all gl)t... reticula

NeilkeoonaUo:1.--:, i,twrn

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CHAPTER 2

On its superficial side, the dennls holds the epidennis at the dermal-epldennal junction (DEJ). On its distal side, the dennis attaches to subcutaneous tissue.

sweat gland

Papillary layer Dennis layer

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Collagen inthe papUlary dennls Is finely textured (King, 2003). It contains projections, called papillae, that fit the dermis to the epidermis (Nemours Foundation, 2004). We are accustomed to using these uniquely individual ridged patterns ln footprinting and fingerprinting (Spense, 2004).

dermal-epidermal junction Supertlclal side of the d01l111s,

connected ID the e~dennls. papillae Projections of any kind; In the skin, paplllae hold the denTils and the epidermis together. glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) Polysacchar1de chains, m~t prominent In the dermis that bind with water, smoothing and softening the surlace from below; most abundant GAG Is hyaluronlc acid. reticular dermis Sublayer of the denTils that oonnects the dennls to the epidermis and Is home ID the skin 's appendages (na~

hair, glands~

Vein

Reticular layer

Figure 2-3

Dermis is the deeper layer skin.

Epidermal appendages such as sweat glands and hair follicles are embedded in the dermis, which also serves as the endpoint for blood vessels and nerves (King, 2003). The dennis, which varies but is approximately 2 mm thick, is furthe1 subdivided into the papillary and reticular layers (Spense, 2004), This subdivision is based on differences in collagen texture (King, 2003). The papillary dermis, the most superficial layer of the dermis, is the first skin layer to contain capillary blood vessels, small nerves, and lymphatic vessels. Because the papillary dermis contains blood vessels and blood vessels provide temperature changes when they constrict or dilate, papillary dermis is specifically responsible for thermoregulation of the body. In addition to its holding properties, the papillary dermis has another im· p~rtant function in regulating the appearance of the skin surface because this subla~er houses glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). GAGs are a vari· ety of chains made of polysaccharide, a type of complex carbohydrate. .i:ttr~cted almost fan~tically to water, GAGs are thought capable ~f bm~mg up to 1_000 times their weight in water (Obagi, 2000), This mo1sture-attractmg property makes GAGs one of the most unPo · rtant . components m our · stud'1es of the skin h d . study of the skin · ManY h'1st o1og1c s owRa .ecr1ease In the number of GAGs with age (Baumann 2002), eticu ar der m is is lacat ed beneath papillary . . an ' d rests on denms th thi k d f .c e c pa o rat kn b ho f th ki b £ own as su cutaneous tissue. The real anc r 0 e s n can e ound at this level.

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Within the reticular dermis are structurreventing Communicable Diseases

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jhe permanent makeup technician is working close to the face of his or her ,:,lients most of the time. Although respiratory transmission is not the only tnethod of disease transmission, it is one with which most of us are familiar. ·,\11 technicians should wear latex gloves while performing procedures. :i;While wearing gloves, avoiding contact with oil or oil--based products is ital because contact will degrade the latex and leave you vulnerable. '~iands should be washed between client sessions and when changing to a Lew pair of gloves. However, for a moment, let us learn something about lisease transmission in an effort to keep you, the clinician, safer.

~nfections

,1nfections happen when a germ enters the body. Most of the time, the 1ody's defense mechanisms are able to fight off the intruders. However, hese little invaders are sometimes stronger than the body's defense :iechanisms. When the germs win, an infection occurs. Other disease 1rocesses are caused by viruses, which, unlike a bacterial infection, will ,ot respond to antibiotics. W Diseases, both bacterial and viral, can enter the body through the ,reaks in the skin, the mucous membranes of the eyes, the nose and

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

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Safety Bill of Rjghts Original name for the OSHA manual. contaminated Desc~pUon of an Item or compound as nonste~le or Impure.

"OSHA's mission is to assure the safety and health of America's workers by setting and enforcing standards; providing training, outreach, and education; establishing partnerships; and encouraging continual improvement in workplace safety and health" (U.S. Department of Labor, 2005).

OSHA was originally known as the Safety Bill of Rights and was developed by the federal government to protect workers, Initially thosein hazardous work environments.

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CHAPTER s

Table5-1

Disease-Causing Agents•

o,..... Hepatitis

Virus X

Measles; mumps, chlckenpox

X

Meningitis

X

X X

Strep throat

X

Tuberculosis

X

Lyme disease Human immunodeficiency virus

X

Herpes

X

Common cold

X

, X

Tetanus Athletes foot

X

Ringworm

X

X

Impetigo Shingles

X

Cellulitis

X

Folliculitis

X

Aone

X

•From American Red Croaa. (2003). Siaywe/l Yardley, PA: Banta Books.

mouth, and through body fluids such as blood or semen. As you can see, the technician must understand the disease process. .. To minimize the spread of bacterial and viral infections, the foll~ suggestions are made: Wash your hands before and after taking care of a~ent, wear gloves if your hands are chapped, and use Vaseline® after washing and before gloving (Table 5-1 and Figures 5-2 and 5-3). Other im~ t tactics would be to wear a surgical mask if you or your client has a respirator)' disease {even a cold), do not recap the needles you use, and do not ~the needles on another client. Most importantly, follow Universal PrecautiOllS·

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

_jigure 5-2

Herpes can occur- on the lip If the client Is not treated with an antiviral medication. (Photo courtesy of the American ,cad emy of Dermatology,) 1 advance

-lgure 5 - 3 Impetigo is possible if the permanent makeup tools f)rthe skin is not clean during the treatment. (Photo courtesy of the American fcad emy of Dermato logy.)

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CHAPTER

s

Universal Precautions

sharps container

Closed envtronment used to dispose of contaminated needles.

The subject of blood-borne pathogens is an extensi~e subject that includes a variety of issues mostly related to needl.e sticks, recapping needles, and exposure to body fluid~, ~~uall~ contaminate~ blood, in the medical setting. Although the poss1bihty exists that we will be exposed to blood or bodily fluids during permanent makeup, the amounts should be miniscule. Nevertheless, the clinician must always follow the rules of Universal Precautions. Universal Precautions states that all body, fluids with which you come into contact are contami~a!ed. For protectio during a permanent makeup procedure, the technician shoul? wear protective eyewear, a protective coat, and gloves. These precautions may seem to be much ado about nothing. However, these rules are for your safety and protection. You must be prepared by always using Universal Precautions. For example, what if your machine malfunctions and sprays pigment or blood toward your eyes or the eyes of your client? One of the precepts of Universal Precautions is that you can never be too safe. In addition to personal safety, the technician should never recap needles and understand how to dispose of contaminated needles properly. Contaminated needles are discarded in a sharps container, which, when full, will be sealed and picked up by the proper disposal company. All technicians in the permanent makeup industry should consult their local health department for classes on blood-borne pathogens. These classes are frequently offered by the American Red Cross or in coordination with a permanent makeup trade organization. This standard training is extremely useful, and a certification of attendance is a valuable asset to you and your business. This course will further enhance your knowledge of contaminants, proper safety, and sanitation practices that are pertinent in your state of operation.

Gloves Gloves ai:e an important component of self-protection; they should be worn d_urmg all treatments (Figure 5-4 ). Two accepted types of gloves are available: latex and nonlatex. Latex allergies have become more comm?n, and they can be problematic. If your client states that he or she might have a latex allergy, be sure to use nonlatex gloves. When a latex allergy or hypersensitivity occurs, the skin will become sensitized to the latex, and a rash 0.r even systemic symptoms can occur. Latex allergies are. .also m cr~c_i~~ · · who wear gloves every day. Obviou · slY, . common . chmcians with latex sensitivities or allergies should wear gloves without latex (Table · 11Y, as mentioned, technicians should avoi'd . 5-2) . · Add' . itiona contact with oil or oil-based products.

TOOLS

ITa"1eure5-4

Or THE TRA DE

Different gloves are available.

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, rable5-2

Protective Glo ve Materia ls *

Ii

Tensile Strength

Softness

Elasticity

Tear Strength

Cost

Good

Very good

Very good

Good

Low

• Polyisoprene

Good

Very good

Very good

Moderate

High

li( Nitrile

Good

Good

Good

Poor

Moderate

Neoprene

Good

Good to very good

Good to very good

Poor

Moderate to high

Block copolymers

Good

Good

Very good

Fair

Moderate to high

Polyvinylchloride

Fair

Good

Poor

Poor

Low

Very good

Good

Good

Good

High

Material Type mi;;atural rufi

er

I Polyurethane

•From Health and Safety Executive. {2004 1 April 11), Non-latex.glove altematives. (Online). Av&Jlable: http!llwww.hse.gov.uk

urgical Masks asks are one of the aggravating additions to a technician>s protective ,rear because they can steam up the eyewear (Figure 5-5). However, the inician should still wear a surgical mask.

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CHAPTER s

When doing permanent makeup, three protective components that the technician must have include (1) gloves to protect from body fluids, (2) eyewear to protect the eyes from sprays, and (3) a laboratory coat or another type of protective garment to protect street clothes from pigment

Figure 5-5

Selection of protective eyewear and masks.

Eyewear Using protective eyewear is simple. Plastic glass~s are u~ed to protect the technician from spraying pigment or body fluids, specifically blood. They do not need to be laser safe (you are not using lase~s), an~ they do not need to be construction grade (you are not hammenng nails); they simply need to protect the eyes from sprays (Figure 5-6). Figure 5-6 Perman e nt makeup technician s hould always wear p rotective eyewear, m asks, gloves, and a Ja cket.

• RULES, REGULATIONS, AND LICENSURE For the future permanent makeup technician, learning the techniques and nuances of performing the procedure is much easier than negotiating the tangled web of red tape associated with the multitude of local laws and jurisdictions that regulate permanent makeup. The U.S. Food and D rug Administration can regulate the pigments used in tattooing and permanent makeup, but they currently do not. No federal statutes or agencies that regulate the industry as a whole exist. Regulation is mostlY accomplished by means of various state and local laws and agencies. Deciphering the vast differences between individual states can be a difficult chore. At the present time, the laws are inconsistent from one state 1 to the next. In some states, permanent makeup is regulated by the state~ ~ard of cosmetology, while in other states (e.g., Colorado), tbe practice 1s now regulated by the state's department of health. In some

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

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tes (e.g., New Mexico, North Dakota), permanent makeup facilities e not regulated at all. For the most comprehensive lists of state regulajuld be appropriate. The devices can be divided into three categories at are specific to how the particular device operates. ~'l..

Types ofMachines Manual tap equipment Reciprocating coll machines Rotary pens

lanual Tap Equipment

(anual tap equipment is the oldest form for both tattooing and perma:nt ma up. These devices have as little as one or as many as two huned needles that are attached to a wooden, plastic, or metal handle 'igure 5-7). The needles are dipped into the pigment, and the recipilt's skin is pricked with the needles, often repeatedly, to intensify the ,!oration. As with other devices, accuracy, eye-hand coordination, and 1nesse are required to achieve the desired result. These devices do not ::tve ink reservoirs, therefore they must be dipped in the pigment Jpeatedly, and then the skin must be pricked in the identical place. !any needle configurations are available, but each technician usually nds a few favorites that he or she specializes in using. Needle selection based on the type of procedure to be performed and the type of skin to e tattooed. Patience is also a critical component to these devices, given 1at performing the procedure will take a long time.

manual tap

Nonmotortzed method of lmplantlng color Into the skin.

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CHAPTER 5

Figure 5-7

Manual tap equipment.

People who prefer manual tap devices prefer them because they are silent, lightweight, and easy to hold for long periods. Additionally, because these devices have no mechanical parts, they are also relatively . . me.xpens1ve. Drawbacks to this particular type of device are that they need to be sterilized in an autoclave, or they must be disposable. T ernptation to reuse the device may be present (although this is in opposition to OSHA guidelines) but should be offset by (1) the relative cost of the device compared with more complex machinery, (2) potential cross-contamination, and (3) wear and tear on the device. After all, who would want to be tattooed with a dull needle?

Reciprocating Coil Machines reciprocating coil machines Motorized devices commonly used In the tattoo Industry.

Reciprocating coil machines came into existence late in the nineteenth century. The needle is connected to a metal rod that strikes the skin at a rapid pace of approximately 7 5 to 100 times a second. The nee· dies are held in place with rubber bands and move around in a pigment reservoir, which means less dipping, that is, if the technician chooses to fill it. M~dem technicians do not fill the reservoir; they dip and tattoo, Each device style selects pigments that adhere the best to their needles (explaining _the_variations in pigment consistency). Properly loaded and handled, dnppmg should not occur with any device.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

ligure 5-8

Reciprocating coil machine.

Coil advocates like the cheaper cost of operation, the power, they tave fun playing with the machine to keep it tuned, or they have multi1le units. Similar to a sports car, coil devices require more tinkering. E!Jt('echnicians must have a backup machine or spare parts in case a spring m'r screw needs adjusting. The components are inexpensive1 and most ir;oil users have these parts on hand. Coil devices come with either a single or a double coil, and the coils _,:ome in various "wraps" that have a direct impact on the power of the ~-1,nit (Figure 5-8), Double coils are somewhat heavier than single coils 'ie, but they tend to have smoother performance. The most popular 1~:oils for permanent makeup are "8" or "10''. Frames for these units need 1·.o be nonporous and sturdy, Aluminum and plastic frames have shown f'll tendency to break easily. Steel is the metal of choice, Although most -:omponents for a coil device are interchangeable from the manufacturer, ';WO methods of connecting the coil to its power supply are available. Jne method employs a forked connectorj the other uses a single snap)n or screw-on connector. Make sure to select the proper cords to match the connector on the coil machine. Power supplies come in all sizes, depending on personal preference Gillld how much the technician wants to invest. These devices come with ;a diversity of bells and whistles, dials and settings. Some power supplies /ai:e quite small, but these small units have less power diversity than do ;their larger cousins. Power supplies are preferred to battery operation ibecause, as the battery is being used, the power output quickly changes, affecting the quality of the procedure, Most technicians have moved away from using batteries to power any of the machine units.

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CHAPTER

s P l ho favor these devices appreciate its sturdy nature and relieop e w · th ' h' h'h ability, Proponents of the coil device like e weig t m t eir an? and claim that the device feels solid and more balanc~d. However, if the technician is using disposable tubes rather than stamless steel ones, the hand balance can be affected. Coil devices are much more effective for performing reconstructive procedures, given that the n_eedle p~netration depth and strength can accommodate the t~ugher, _thicker skin associated with scarring or injury. Additionally, coil machmes have the largest array of needle configurations availa?le. . , Coil devices are the tools of choice for many cosmetic tattoo artists. If a special arrangement of needles or a special variation a technician prefers exists, either making them or having them made to suit is not difficult. A coil device is the one type of device for which the technician does not have to get the components from a specific manufacturer'. With all other devices, parts are manufacturer specific. With coils, all needles and tubes fit all machines, regardless of the manufacturer. Some technicians avoid coils because of the intense vibration and the inability of the client to deal with the device. Results can be better than adequate in the hands of a skilled technician. Drawbacks of this machine include the relatively heavy weight of the device and the large and often inconvenient power supply. Given that coil devices do not run on batteries, users often become irritated by the long cord. Additionally, these devices are the loudest of all devices. Although the results are usually adequate, the noise can sometimes be intimidating for the recipient.

Rotary Pens rotary pens Uyhtwelght stylus-shaped moto~zed devloes developed as an alternative for pennanent cosmeuc.

Rotary pens are the most common type of device used today for application of permanent makeup (Figure 5-9). These devices operate in a similar manner as a sewing machine. However, rather than manipulating threads into material, the rotary pen machines introduce dyes into the skin. The rotating movement of the motor enables the needle to strike the skin vertically and repeatedly. Many rotaries require dipping every three or _f~ur strokes, no different than manual techniques, Some of the newer d1g1tals allow the technician to provide more strokes before dipping again (Figure 5-10), Newer type~ of equipment are digitally manipulated to produce a thorougl_tly con~i~tent number of strikes, in addition to an even depth of penetration. Digital devices are more expensive than are their rotary counterparts. .i:-