Haynes Vauxhall/Opel Vectra 1999 to 2002 Service and Repair Manual [3930] 1859609309, 9781859609309

Citation preview

I E P O / L L A H X U VA

A R T VEC

—

Mar 1999 to May 2002 (T registration onwards) Petrol & Diesel

Haynes Service and Repair Manual

Includes Roadside

Repairs and MOT Test Checks

and not forgetting... We don’t just publish car manuals, you know! In addition to the hundred and fifty million car and bike manuals we have sold worldwide, Haynes also produce a wide range of practical books and manuals on subjects such as home DIY, computing, caravanning, cycling and driving tuition — and there’s our innovative and highly successful Family Series as well. No matter what the subject, our essential no-nonsense, easy-to-follow approach remains the same. |

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We also publish and distribute hundreds of books and DVDs covering general motoring and transport subjects, including all aspects of motorsport, classic cars, sports cars, motorcycling, military vehicles, aviation, model cars, cycling, golf, history and much, much more.

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Check out our website at www.haynes.co.uk to find your nearest stockist or to view or download our online catalogue. All Haynes publications are available variously through car accessory shops, book stores and mail order outlets.

Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Telephone 01963 442030 ¢ E-mail [email protected] ¢ Website www.haynes.co.uk Sweden

018 124016 * USA 805 498-6703 ¢ Australia 613 9763-8100

illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who- unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

NTNU C00 25407821

CITY LIBRARIES

Vauxhall/Opel Vectra service and Repair Manual Peter T Gill and AK Legg tse mim Models covered

|

;

(3930 - 416 - 8AK2)

Vectra Saloon, Hatchback & Estate models, including special/limited editions Petrol engines: 1.6 litre (1598cc), 1.8 litre (1796 & 1799cc), 2.0 litre (1998cc) & 2.2 litre (2198cc) Turbo-Diesel engines: 2.0 litre (1994cc) & 2.2 litre (2171cc) Does NOT cover 2.5 or 2.6 litre V6 petrol engines or dual fuel models

THE

ey

© Haynes Publishing 2004

CITY OF EDINBURGH COUNCIL

ee So et ABCDE FQHW

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted — Printed in the USA in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc

ISBN 978 1 85960 930 9

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

VAUXHALL/OPEL

VECTRA

Safety first!

Page

0e5

Introduction to the Vauxhall/Opel Vectra

Page

0°6

Jump starting Wheel changing

Page Page

08 009

Towing

Page

0¢10

Roadside Repairs

Weekly Check Introduction

Page

Oe11

Underbonnet check points

Page

Oe11

Engine oil level

Page

0e13

Page

013

Page

0°14

Coolant level

mot

Brake and clutch fluid level

oe

Power steering fluid level

Page

0e14

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0e15

Screen washer fluid level

Page

0°16

Wiper blades

Page

0°16

Battery

Page

0°17

Electrical systems

Page

0°18

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0°19

Tyre pressures

Page 0¢20

MAINTENANCE Routine Maintenance and Servicing Petrol models

Page

Weswucnd specications), ° “,baae

Beas

ne

Maintenance schedule

Maintenance procedures

Digest ipodcist,.

0:

‘

| SR

eo

Page

1Ae1

ee

Page

1Ae3

Page

1A°7

St Ameen Bee

Servicing specifications

Page

1Be2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1Be3

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Be5

Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who

unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems 1.6 litre SOHC petrol engine in-car engine repair procedures

Page

1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre DOHC petrol engine in-car engine repair procedures 2.2 litre DOHC petrol engine in-car engine repair procedures

Page

2Be1

Page

2Ce1

Diesel engine in-car engine repair procedures

Page

2De1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2Ee1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems — petrol engine models

Page

4Ae1

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel engine models

Page

4Be1

Emissions control systems

Page

4Ce1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system — petrol models

Page

5Be1

2Ae1

Pre-heatingsyst = em=di = | odels Page SCed eselm Transmission Clutch

Page

6¢1

Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

841

Brakes and Suspension Dei sel Page

9e1

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12¢21

Braking system

q 3-2

,

Suspension and steering

Body equipment

ath Baaeaceneizes eak ieiic 0a whnigneteicy-) dloys 1 te 2. Baticecwic

REFERENCE

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REFe4

General repair procedures

Page

REFe5

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe6

_Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system

Page

REFe7

facilities Tools andphworking lp A il rr Dacian MOT test checks

Page

NS

Nn

Oe

14

Page REFe25

Glossary of technical terms

Index Ses

MEA Me iye bINRY Weie) cepa

REFe8 eS Page REFe10

ow ah

pe

a

Page REF*30

o4 Advanced driving

_ Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.

Learning to drive by ‘experience’ three driving skills:

Many people see the words ‘advanced driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the

wheel.

teaches

Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) [_] Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). _] Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...)

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention.

Observation means not just looking, .but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect

Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments.

to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.)

Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes.

something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the

Planning An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some

seriously.

Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

The

key

skills

of advanced

concentration, effective observation, anticipation and

When

driving

are

all-round planning.

good vehicle handling is added to

is

the

link

between

seeing

missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety first! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning e Beware of burns from the exhaust system

and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing e¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle,

always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. ¢ Take care if loosening or tightening high-

e Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is

rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel

Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. © Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.

e Ignition HT

DO ¢ Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

¢ Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to “protect your hands when necessary.

* Do get someone to check periodically vehicle.

-

voltage cartbe

Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

dangerous, especially to i people with heart

* Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before

working on the vehicle—especially the electrical system.

problems or a

pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the J ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

33

Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are

exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to. amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. © The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

that all is well when working alone on the

Electric shock

Special hazards

-¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking | equipment has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

DON’T ¢ Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component . which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. ¢ Don’t rush to finish a job, or take: unverified short cuts.

e Don’t use ill-fitting tools Which may id and cause injury.

* Don’t leave tools or parts lying around -

where someone can trip over them. Mop _up oil and fuel spills at once.

i or e Don’t allow children or pets to play in ~ near a vehicle being worked on.

.

og INtroduction The Vauxhall/Opel- Vectra was introduced in the UK in October 1995 as a replacement for the Cavalier. It was originally available in

Saloon and Hatchback versions with 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 and 2.5 litre petrol engines and 1.7 litre normally aspirated diesel engines. The Estate range was launched in October 1996. This Manual covers the facelifted models introduced in March 1999.which were available with 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre petrol engines, and 2.0 and 2.2 litre diesel engines. The 1.6 litre petrol engines are available with both single and double overhead belt-driven camshafts, the 1.8, and 2.0 litre petrol engines have belt-driven double overhead camshafts, and the 2.2 litre petrol engine has chain-driven double overhead camshafts. All the diesel engines have a single overhead belt-driven camshaft and are of direct injection design. Models may be fitted with a five-speed manual, or four-speed automatic transmission

mounted on the left-hand side of the engine. All models have front-wheel-drive with fullyindependent front and rear suspension. Power steering (PAS) and Anti-Lock Braking (ABS) are fitted as standard to all

models. All models have a driver’s airbag, and side airbags may be fitted as an option. Air conditioning is also available as an option. For the home mechanic, the Vauxhall/Opel

Vectra is a straight-forward vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily

accessible.

Your Vauxhall/Opel Vectra manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photo-

r

Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 LS Saloon

graphed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forward.

Project vehicles The main vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and which appears in many of the photographic sequences, was a Vauxhall Vectra Hatchback with a 2.2 litre petrol engine. Other vehicles included a Hatchback 2.0 litre diesel engine model.

Acknowledgements Certain illustrations are the copyright of Vauxhall Motors Limited, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations

and run not by

design changes during the production of a particular vehicle of which they do inform us. No liability can be accepted the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Roadside repairs 0-7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t b start and the starter motor doesn’t) turn | =

If your car won’t 5 start even though the starter motor turns as normal

CL] If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. L] Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. L] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

L] Is there fuel in the tank? L] Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious — dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system © electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.

iy Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

Pe

ain

Check the wiring to the spark plugs and ignition coils.

Check the engine wiring loom connectors for security.

switched off) and spray them Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition problem due to damp with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a

D rh a aye? to the map sensor (where fitted).

og Roadside repairs Jump starting

Jump starting will get you out ~ Bait

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: VY

v

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis switched off.

v

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

yw _ Ifthe battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle,

the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

v

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of

vY_ Take note of any special precautions

printed on the battery case.

—

whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to siart, or by leaving the lights on.

:

:

:

The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). The battery itselfisat fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

automatic transmission).

Vag,

1

of trouble, but you must correct

ee pe

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

2

:

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

_"

3

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

4

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

I i I I

eye,

i

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster

eed eee a -

es cas ae

as ee

eres ce

eee

battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs o-9 Wheel changing Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

AN

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission).

[)

When a puncture occurs, stop’as soon as it is safe to do so. (1) Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. L] Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

[J

(1

Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed — a couple of large stones will do for this.

If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

1

On Saloon and Hatchback models the jack and wheelbrace are stowed at the right-hand side of the luggage compart-

ment, behind a cover. On Estate models they are beneath a cover in a compartment on the

The spare wheel is stored beneath a cover in the luggage compartment. Raise the cover, remove the securing screw and lift out the spare wheel. Place it beneath the sill as a precaution against the jack failing.

left-hand side of the luggage compartment.

id

4 Loosen each wheel bolt by half a turn.

On models with steel wheels, use the special tool to pull the wheel trim from the wheel. On models with alloy wheels, use the screwdriver provided inserted at the wheel bolt holes to prise off the trim. Where an anti-theft device is fitted, use the tool provided to remove the trim.

:

Locate the jack head below the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. Pull out the cover; the jacking point is indicated by cut-outs in the sill. Turn the handle until the base of the jack touches the ground ensuring that the jack is vertical. Raise the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the ground. If the tyre is flat make sure that the vehicle is raised sufficiently to allow the spare

Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill in place of the spare as a precaution against the jack failing. Fit the spare wheel and tighten the bolts moderately with the wheelbrace.

wheel to be fitted.

(1

5

Lower the vehicle to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim. Note that the wheel bolts should be tightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity.

Finally... [] Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. [] Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. C1 Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

o10 Roadside repairs Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet. or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the

A

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

problem lies.

S The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue

to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. ~ Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

‘Sump oil — S

oa

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

_ Antifreeze

gg

ie,

a

2

sp

¢:

bil?

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil-can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

CL] Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. LJ Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. [] Greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. ] The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

L] Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

:

3 Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

- Towing a ; ‘

' When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance . recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: -(1 Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive.

The vehicle

being towed

must

display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. L}) Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the

direction indicator and brake lights will work. [] Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.

CL] Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

CL] A towing eye is provided with the warning -

triangle

and

first aid

kit in the

luggage

compartment.

L] To fit the towing eye, prise the cover from the front bumper, then screw in the towing eye anti-clockwise as far as it will go using the handle of the wheel brace to turn the eye. Note that the towing eye has a left-hand thread. A rear towing eye is provided beneath the rear of the vehicle.

Weekly checks 011 Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

L] Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove’to be very well spent, for example;

(] Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points q 1.6 litre DOHC petrol Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap Coolant reservoir

(expansion tank)

Hydraulic fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir

Battery Power steering OUP> ommo

fluid reservoir

1.8 litre petrol Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap

Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) Hydraulic fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir ' NB)

TES

Battery

Power steering A OU> Qo7mmo

fluid reservoir

o12 Weekly checks 4

2.2 litre petrol Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap Coolant reservoir

(expansion tank) Hydraulic fluid reservoir

Washer fluid reservoir Battery

Power steering oOommo OWPY

fluid reservoir

4q 2.0 litre diesel Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant reservoir

(expansion tank) Hydraulic fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery Power steering OWD oT7Tmo

wes

fluid reservoir

Weekly checks o+13 Engine oil level Before you start V Make sure that your car is on level ground. Vv Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

WWNiiaa

/f the oil is checked immediately after driving the

vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate

reading on the dipstick!

Me The dipstick is located on the front of the engine (see Underbonnet Check Points for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean

~

dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See ‘Lubricants and fluids’).

Car Care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.

@ Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotate the cap through a quarter-turn anticlockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill.

Coolant level Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great

risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care @ With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

@ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water — alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

KAT (CODenna) rn 1%

KAUTFCOUD Cee aay

The coolant level varies with the tem‘f perature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be mark on the slightly above the KALT/COLD. side of the tank. When the engine is hot, the level will rise.

fe: If topping-up is necessary, wait until engine is cold. Slowly unscrew expansion tank cap, to release pressure present in the cooling system, remove it.

the the any and

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to _ the expansion tank until the coolant is up to the KALT/COLD level mark. Refit the cap and tighten it securely.

o14 Weekly checks Brake & clutch fluid level Warning:

@

e Make sure that your car is

Hydraulic fluid can harm

your eyes and damage painted

on level ground.

surfaces, so caution when

reservoir will drop slightly as

use extreme handling and

pouring it. @ Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

e

The

fluid

level

in

the

the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark.

Safety First! @ If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. @ If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

Fant

1

The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

must be kept between the marks at all times.

ca

ue

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level Before you start

For the check to be accurate, the steering must

V Park the vehicle on level ground.

V Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. V The engine should be turned off.

The power steering fluid reservoir is located either on the power steering pump at the right- or left-hand front of the engine, or separately on the rear of the radiator. The fluid level should be checked with the engine stopped.

not

be turned once the engine has been stopped.

2

Unscrew the filler cap from the top of the reservoir, and wipe all fluid from the cap dipstick with a clean rag. Refit the filler cap, then remove it again. Note the fluid level on the dipstick.

-

Safety First! @ The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be _ investigated immediately.

When the engine is cold, the fluid level should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick where MIN and MAX marks are provided. Where only one mark is provided, the level should be between the bottom of the dipstick and the mark. Top

up the fluid level using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill the reservoir), then refit and tighten the filler cap.

Weekly checks o«15 Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

Tread Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re= balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If,

however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

3 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Uneven

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and exGessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

Répair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t

forget to reduce afterwards.

the pressures

to normal

Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result.of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which 3 typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

o-16 Weekly checks Screen washer fluid level Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the

prevent the washer system freezing in cold

screenwash will become too diluted, and will

1 The reservoir for the windscreen and rear window (where applicable) washer systems is located on the front left-hand side of the engine compartment. If topping-up is necessary, prise open the cap and lift out the dipstick attached to it.

freeze during cold weather. On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system | this could discolour or damage paintwork.

When topping-up the reservoir a screen-wash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Wiper blades

1 Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or

show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

2 To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass

until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then squeeze the

locking clip, and detach the blade from the arm. When fitting the

new blade, make sure that the blade locks securely into the arm, and that the blade is orientated correctly.

Weekly checks 0-17 Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in ‘Safety first' at the start of this manual. v Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution

of water and baking soda. Thoroughly. rinse all

cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. Vv Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. v If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. Where fitted, unclip the fabric cover from the top of the battery for access to the terminals. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

case or cover.

Battery

corrosion

can

minimum by applying petroleum jelly to the

be kept

to a

a layer of clamps and

terminals after they are reconnected.

=

VA

3

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post...

4

... as well as the battery cable clamps

ois Weekly checks Electrical systems

AYN)

/f you need to check your brake lights and indicators

V Check all external lights and the horn. Refer wW Visually check all accessible wiring to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for details if any of the circuits are found to be — security, and for signs of chafing or damage. inoperative.

At 1 »

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is

2

1. likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to

- Chapter 12 for details. If both stop-lights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9).

_ unaided, back up to a wall or | garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit

(see Chapter 12). The main fuses are located beneath a cover on the driver’s side of the facia. Pull up and remove the cover, then pull out the bottom of the fusebox.

st

ot

3 Additional fuses and relays are located in the left-hand side of the engine compartment.

4

To replace a blown fuse, remove it, where applicable, using the

plastic tool provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew (see Electrical fault finding in Chapter 12)

Lubricants and fluids o+19 Lubricants and fluids Engine

CEU

15

Se

aN AP nee

aT

i

na ere

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 10W/50, to ACEA-A3/B3 Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 to 10W/50 to ACEA-A3/B3

Diesel

a CZOGUNG SV SUING

Poe Fo Poo

os nc bas ee

OPP

Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze”

SRS

Manual gearbox

F13, F17, F18 and F23 F35 up to MY2000

a

F35 from MY2001

et

SW

a

ad ori

ae

aa

a

ee

el te Oh Ole

ek

le

Se

em

wy

pean

ee

Vauxhall transmission fluid Cat.No.19 40 768

ee ee

qe

ae oe ee

a

ee

me

ins

a

Vauxhall transmission fluid Cat.No.19 40 764 Vauxhall transmission fluid Cat.No.19 40 768

Automatic transmission

Dexron II type ATF

Power steering reservoir ..............----+-00e-

Dexron II type ATF

Hydraulic fluid reservoir

Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703, DOT 3 or DOT 4

* Vauxhall/Opel recommend the use of ‘green’ coolant (90 297 545) in vehicles manufactured before MY2001 (Model Year), and ‘red’ coolant (09 194 431/19 40 650) in vehicles manufactured from MY2001-on. Do not mix the two types of coolant.

Choosing your engine oil Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel

economy.

e Cooling hot-spots Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS e Beating friction Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your

engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up. =

”

¢ Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always: e Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. e Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. +4 Call 0800 663366 to find ort

0800 66 33 66 the one nearest to you. www.ollbankline.org.uk

Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.

o20 Tyre pressures (cold)

&

Note: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres only, and may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary. The pressures are also given on the inside of the fuel filler flap. Tyre pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold (before a journey); do not forget to check the spare. Front

Rear

1999 and 2000 model year vehicles - 195/65R15, 205/60R15 and 205/55R16 tyres 1.6 and 1.8 litre petrol and 2.0 Di 16V engines stows persons = alli models: 4x hott. oaks atecdlerccadhe eestee eee eaten Full load: ; Saloonand' atehbackimodelS# au ne emis sae cic ee ieee ee ESTAtOMOCS State sate cerare sen a kn’ a;aaa Ea aah ee auebe Rae

28 psi (1.9 bars)

28 psi (1.9 bars)

29 psi (2.0 bars) 29 psi (2.0 bars)

38 psi (2.6 bars) 42 psi (2.9 bars)

30 psi (2.1 bars)

30 psi (2.1 bars)

32 psi (2.2 bars) 32 psi (2.2 bars)

41 psi (2.8 bars) 45 psi (3.1 bars)

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28 psi (1.9 bars)

28 psi (1.9 bars)

30 psi (2.1 bars) 29 psi (2.0 bars)

39 psi (2.7 bars) 42 psi (2.9 bars)

32 psi (2.2 bars)

32 psi (2.2 bars)

33 psi (2.3 bars) 32 psi (2.2 bars)

42 psi (2.9 bars) 45 psi (3.1 bars)

30 psi (2.1 bars)

33 psi (2.3 bars)

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38 psi (2.6 bars)

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36 psi (2.5 bars) 36 psi (2.5 bars)

45 psi (3.1 bars) 49 psi (8.4 bars)

33 psi (2.3 bars) 35 psi (2.4 bars)

38 psi (2.6 bars) 38 psi (2.6 bars)

36 psi (2.5 bars) 36 psi (2.5 bars)

45 psi (3.1 bars) 49 psi (3.4 bars)

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Chapter 1 Part A: Routine maintenance and servicing — petrol engine models Contents Air cleanerelement FenGWal oo sc cen Automatic transmission fluid renewal

ec ee ee ed ee eat ee ne 23 .............000 2eee eee 27 Auxiliary drivebelt and tensioner — check and renewal ..........4

ECMOCNTOSION GIROhe ett eletetere prsjeteie gus treks aes eae sw os crerns 2k 10 ROCHCA RONAN Bite race sukPeachide Saute pein Viole resend Incitepisrmsusiel Sarabers ere 21

PAVE STIATE CAMS INCNOC aaa itch wicnrtsid sons Cis fons Sas enact amps sages stig saps 12 BIBCIECaI SYSTEMS COCK, aacselnactic Soyer Bs ie i s+ pwieratte eange alee as 16 ENeine OMEN filer TOMOWAl cinse.cdaip a> ates oe © oe ies Sails i's,Sees 3 EXD MAM SSIOR CMEC eg nonrctcie aycyrgisiadt do Sitersjos,56) py S.aqeysit eva)ors 22 Front & rear brake pad:and disc check ~......0.... sj. eens ace eeu 2) PSPiSt sre ta EM ONA Ee a PR aa a ote: etude ha mona,sc,5 waidsuhranleric! sMalcaay mys el» 26 (GX EW ahielag acti teyh eee ee ee Oe SE en ee ee er crea 1 Handbrake check and adjustment 5.2 4. . 2m)... tere Seales Se 6 Headlight beam alignment check ............ eee eee eeee ees 13

Fine and lOCKAUD CATION watie ag cteywn ieug acon tend vem ses eestor erate tape 15 ose andtiuidsleakicheGk weaeniet ctl. mney es poten earep rename 11 Hydraulic fluid renewal =| “Akinaisp certs rec viet sierrcgrln ui einai eedetet 20 Pollenifilter renewal ®.. : @ 2.5 sent he Peale siete s athe. bo trees aanenee nae 18 Rear brake: drumicheck Giscdanelsitaccidaarettreyetele, slapeeairehaiay trans teients alle28 Rear brake:ShoeGheck ctu sile.intentads misc este arersu tems eenen ersten serene if Rear suspension level control system check .......--...+-e-) 9 Regular maintenance « = 2.05 jac tem «stele cum is w eyernin eet lokermayo gine 2 Remote control battery renewal ........ 200. ec eee ee eee eee 19 ROA test. 5.4.07 ds ssc +< s\= ehemarteripate Tee eon Rear suspension level control system check .............-.00Regular Maintenance isos wait. ces os oe» selene abet ieee .Remote control battery renewal =... ..-. 32.)seums eee wee ROACHOSH ria sw ielerst cee ehe ate Gosteute see eles helelete al ni ea eee Suspension‘and steering! Check «at ccs ccqe sc a e's «vhs oes ieee

FSONGTALINIONMAUON

Wheel bolt ‘tightriess check

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

= cccmite cick

uh acies msl carspeeiee Sckmek eostalbas cis 1

\ | Fairly easy, suitable SS for beginner with x some experience

SS

irly

di

.

oo. ticcecc tes si ees ere > eee

Difficult, suitable for ; experienced DIY mechanic

|

Very difficult, S DIY f ~ s suitable for expert or professional

.

6 13 15 11 19 26 7 9 2 20 17 8 14

182 Servicing specifications — diesel models Lubricants and fluids Refer to Weekly checks on page 0°19

Capacities Engine oil

IMEMIGIMOPOll: filtefeces fone ohcateverate eaters er.Aecetepate cuit ateatenstray eseyelet stan Reeae ay Excluding oil filter:

5.5 litres

NZOD EAN 22 DIA cate aresriess eicisee ine le wie take musta eranetey Sicmiipuetone Biota Rome mee tes tele a citer Menet 20D TEXOOD Teles see Difference between MIN and MAX on dipstick ............+.--+++-

5.1 litres 5.0 litres 1.0 litre

Cooling system I ACCODTH andwW 22D Reece set ecntat tare cfaca iicta ta taet tet lle PAOD WTOANligetats ieceeci ie arc ee mcaRoneronre aLieatore ciieedomaenec loan dintonareca nae cian a

7.2 litres 7.4 litres

Manual transmission IN| qatee ES Sere Rate rote

AIR ALAN FARES SEY cee ee Sok at oro cole cola

1.6 litres

Washer fluid reservoir Without MeaCIGMEWASIGNS ce cremaicie ctu ereks coe gc alecce eto.bates evirnlnlm orceaga Withmmedcliqht: WASNENS oc) heute cictea tone sein c.eyere ate)susie sceletncaa saan

2.6 litres 5.5 litres

Fuel tank /AlWantereSic pn ao ROG

60 litres

eTOOD

eae

tc

ur Resin cin cicero cla Ruai

Engine identification Manufacturer’s code CLO OAT) SE Bee cares aaa cela inet cme 6’ Star pei darote Genoa dial POUTMs toi 3 Ciatta, le arene Ne tcc s MaaPac east genes deredcneta)MrMeiel one haeaimene meets (730) BA milter eaepem ane toe aolaeetrae ChE orcOey oreo agrmleth «cone houtn ges oat oele fire Anco, arRRO PRE? Gti Rec See Rie Ne Ree coe Pm TePRES. cya eythane

Engine 2.0 litre 2.0 litre 2.0 litre 2.2 litre

type high-pressure turbo diesel engine low-pressure turbo diesel engine

high-pressure turbo diesel engine high-pressure turbo diesel engine

Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: BOSS IANITULEEZO Wis te. tolinte wieteueiigiets aickeieicuminis cee atSisis a soa stage tehens SA COROALIITGOZOk re retina usmeteer stones arisas tnehie a cumtiecie Syaiiece:a 21oheneaeMenten Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Protection down to -37°C Protection down to —45°C

Pre-heating system Glow plugs: X20DTL: From: chassis number Wil 000001)

2)...

sbeebs

edn

ae

Fromichassis number, ALOOOOOM ae... scrs nti eens Macheitie es ea Sieve « Fromichassis number V/999999 «- sik. cv le deteehsveie ce es

NEE TOREP ct chcuctect ah acciehe sees OKC cice Oka aE ER rls oe RN (ALD) OUTat to ak hotee ORC CRI CORE CECE ae ere in PREM Each: CoPunucy Oo: 6 MAS DTU any te imet csuate aicicre, state siptisebie neccns-v arent caret wae Ween thes

Bosch 0 250 202 042 Bosch 0 250 202 042 Bosch 0 250 202 027

Bosch 0 250 202 042 Bosch 0 250 202 043 Bosch 0 250 202 043

Brakes Friction material minimum thickness (including backing plate): EON DlAKe: PACS am oy. state’ Wain oz pungent ose hee ae san cme ees Rea Drake DaGSies waist. siccdee) talFok eh widyesc. Sakseepaetee sixislet ianseapenehie Nalat «

7.5mm 6.7 mm

Reambrake'’shOeS) cist. 2 c's as, «fui agete a craters! o) ainistaie see eater, Minimum handbrake shoe friction material thickness (lining only)...

1.0 mm lining thickness or 0.5 mm above rivet heads 1.0mm

Torque wrench settings Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner: BeimnipormOwenSlOnen Aetae ts ste rucrvolhicus a chepncmitdane Me ale tence Tensioner mounting bolts:

eae &

Nid OHO timer eee wcet le duake aye)anciWic, tashees Pie mist maar «eRe fend ate] yeaeseteachesa ear itacakohTERETE NOI Car Rane RIS PLAC A-arycie eto ic Engine Oilfiltomhousingyeoveltn.. ty Ae ete teinin ocaaetr oa tea coe -Fuel filter housing cover centre bolt .......... 00. beeen eens FIOAOWIEGLDOIES avant ses. Site. ain a Marcle. o's, ataaagdlonehtwina she gehe icles < oueb UUM ILI anc Ata wiakstent cccuske toinnthe ous ctw wide Mactan au eam a ene ares aoe

Nm

Ibf ft

23

17

42 23 30 8 110 18

cil 17 22 6 81 13

Maintenance schedule — diesel models 1B«3 The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to

perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,

more frequent maintenance recommended. When the vehicle is new,

intervals

it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

6 months, whichever comes first

Every 12 months, regardless of mileage

(| Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)

[] Drain water from the fuel filter (Section 18)

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or Note: Vauxhall recommend that the engine oil and filter are changed every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes are good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter are renewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot of short journeys.

Every 20 000 miles (80 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

are

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first _] Renew the pollen filter element (Section 19)

Note: /f the vehicle is used in dusty conditions, the pollen filter should be renewed more frequenily.

[_] Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelts and tensioner (Section 4) (_] Check the front/rear brake pads and discs for wear (Section 5) (] Check and adjust the handbrake (Section 6) (_] Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 7) [| Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 8) [_] Check the rear suspension level control system (where applicable) (Section 9) _] Check the body and underbody for corrosion protection (Section 10) -] Check all components, pipes and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 11) (_] Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters

(Section 12) (] Check and if necessary adjust the headlight beam . alignment (Section 13) the to ed tighten ]. Check the roadwheel bolts are specified torque (Section 14) (_] Lubricate all door locks and hinges, door stops, bonnet lock and release, and tailgate lock and _ «hinges (Section 15) (_] Check the operation of all electrical systems (Section 16) (] Garry out a road test (Section 17)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first [_] Renew the remote control batteries (Section 20)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage [| Renew the hydraulic fluid (Section 21) [] Renew the coolant (Section 22) (_] Exhaust emission test (Section 23)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or

4 years, whichever comes first

(] Renew the air cleaner element (Section 24) [|] Renew the fuel filter (Section 25)

[_] Check the rear brake drums for wear (Section 2

eee

18-4 Component location — diesel models Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre diesel engine model Front suspension strut upper mounting Hydraulic fluid reservoir Turbocharger and heat shield Fuel filter

Auxiliary fuse and relay box Battery Auxiliary relay box Power steering fluid reservoir Engine oil level dipstick Air cleaner

Front suspension lower arm Front subframe Electric cooling fan Engine oil drain plug Manual transmission Steering track rod Exhaust downpipe ANOAAAWND Driveshaft =

Component location — diesel models iss Typical rear underbody Exhaust rear silencer Rear towing eye Onoys= Rear suspension crossmember 4 Rear suspension strut 5 Rear suspension lower

am) 6

Fuel filter (petro! versions only) Rear suspension trailing arm Fuel tank

7 8

1

General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. a _ master contains Chapter 2The maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule.

Visual

checks,

2 Regular maintenance

adjustments,

component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This isa comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

4 As-you service your vehicle, you will

discover that many of the procedures can — and should — be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any

reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering

components.

5 The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test or leakdown test (refer to Chapter 2C) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression

or leakdown test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer to ‘Weekly checks’). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer to ‘Weekly checks’). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4). d) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 24).

e) Renew the fuel filter (Section 26). f) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 11). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus : the following: a) Check the charging system (refer to ; Chapter 5A). b) Check the pre-heating system (refer to Chapter 5C). c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4B).

186 Maintenance procedures — diesel models Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months 3

Engine oil and filter renewal

SS

ss

wy

_

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes

diluted and contaminated, “premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this

which leads to

procedure,

gather

together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any

spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. 'To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to _ protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used ' engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine undertray where necessary. 4 Remove the oil filler cap (see illustration).

5 Using a spanner, or preferably a suitable socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint). _ 6 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 7 To gain access to the oil filter housing, undo the retaining screws and remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine (see illustration). 8 Using a large socket, unscrew the cover and remove it from the top of the oil filter housing (see illustration). Lift out the old filter element. 9 Fit the new filter element to the housing (see illustration). 10 Renew the sealing rings then refit the oil filter cover and tighten it to the specified torque (see illustration). Refit the plastic cover to the engine and securely tighten its screws. 11 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain plug and the sealing washer with a clean rag. Examine the condition of the sealing washer, and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or other damage which may prevent an oil-tight seal. Clean the area around the drain plug

opening, and refit the plug complete with the washer and tighten it to the specified torque. 12 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground. 13. Fill the engine through the filler hole, using the correct grade and type of oil (refer to Weekly Checks for details of topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately a further 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. 14 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the new oil filter and the engine oil galleries before the pressure builds-

up. 15 Stop the engine, and wait.a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely with reference to General repair procedures.

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away quickly so that the stream of oil running out of the

sump goes into the drain pan and pot

| up your eve :

3. 8 Rreesrove the oil filter housing cover and lift out the old filter element

3.9 Fit the new filter element to the housing...

3.7 Undo the retaining screws and remove the cover from the top of the engine

3.10 . . . then fit the new sealing rings to the cover recesses (arrowed) and refit the

cover to the housing

Maintenance procedures — diesel models 18-7 Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months 4 Auxiliary drivebelt

SS

and tensioner check and renewal

BS EN

Note: A single belt is used to drive all auxiliary components,

Checking 1 Drivebelts are prone to failure after a long period of time and should therefore be inspected regularly. - 2 With the engine stopped, inspect the full length of the drivebelt for cracks and separation of the belt plies. It will be necessary to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) in order to move the belt from the pulleys so that the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist the belt between the pulleys so that both sides can be viewed. Also check for fraying, and glazing which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks, cracks, distortion and corrosion.

3 If the belt shows signs of wear or damage, it must be renewed. 4 To check the drivebelt tensioner, turn the tensioner anti-clockwise as far as possible using a socket on the special hexagon, then release it and check that it returns to its original position. If the tensioner has any tight spots or fails to return fully, it must be renewed.

13 Refit the air cleaner housing as described in Chapter 4B.

Renewal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the roadwheels. 2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can be carried out via the inspection hole on the caliper (see Haynes Hint). Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the pad lining including the backing plate. This must not

as 5 Remove the air cleaner housing described in Chapter 4B. 6 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine undertray. To improve access, remove the right-hand front roadwheel and inner wheelarch liner. 7 Prior to removal make a note of the correct routing of the belt around the various pulleys (see illustrations). If the belt is to be re-used, also mark the direction of rotation on the belt to ensure the belt is refitted the same way around. 8 Using a suitable spanner or socket fitted to

the

special

hexagonal

section

on

the

tensioner pulley backplate, lever the tensioner anti-clockwise away from the belt until there is sufficient slack to enable the belt to be slipped off the pulleys (see illustration). Carefully release the tensioner pulley until it is against its stop then remove the belt from the vehicle. 9 If the tensioner is being renewed, unbolt the

bracket and damper from the timing cover. 410 Manoeuvre the belt into position, routing it correctly around the pulleys; if the original belt is being fitted, use the marks made prior to removal to ensure it is fitted the correct way around. 41 Lever the tensioner roller back against its spring, and seat the belt on the pulleys.

H32957

4.7a Auxiliary drivebelt configuration on models without air conditioning

Ensure the belt is centrally located on all pulleys then slowly release the tensioner pulley until the belt is correctly tensioned. 12 Refit the wheelarch cover, roadwheel and engine undertray, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque

5

Front & rear brake pad.

and disc check

be less than that indicated in the Specifications.

3 The view through the caliper inspection hole gives a rough indication of the state of the brake pads. For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Chapter 9 contains a detailed description of how the brake disc should be checked for wear and/or damage. 4 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, al/ four pads must be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9 for — details. ‘ 5 On completion, refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

6

Handbrake check and adjustment —

Refer to Chapter 9.

H32958

brake 4.7b Auxiliary drivebelt configuration on models with air conditioning

4.8 Release the drivebelt tension and slip the belt off the pulleys

Whi

pad can be m

the aperture int

ve

18s Every 20 000 miles or 12 months — diesel models 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the

the shock absorber is probably suspect. Also examine the shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

9

Rear suspension level control system check

movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are

8.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

7

Rear brake shoe check

Suspension and steering check

the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion rubber gaiter and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes,

Mil

Front suspension and steering 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering

gear. 3 Check the power steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering

gear.

10 Body corrosion check

movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described. In addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension 8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 9 Working as described previously for the front suspension, check the rear hub bearings, the suspension bushes and the strut or shock absorber mountings (as applicable) for wear.

10 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is

defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Shock absorbers should always be bt)

A leak in the cooling system will usually

show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

VV This work should be carried out by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer in order to validate the vehicle warranty. The work includes a thorough inspection of the vehicle paintwork and underbody for damage and corrosion

11 Hose and fluid leak check

renewed in pairs on the same axle.

11 The efficiency of the shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound,

Ss aS

x

hi

looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel backand-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost

Shock absorber

P oe

Where fitted on Estate models, check that the rear suspension ‘self-levelling control system operates correctly. In the event of a suspected fault, have the system checked by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.

worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If

Note: This Section applies only to models fitted with rear drum brakes. Refer to Chapter 9.

8

at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer balljoint is

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the cylinder head cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected — what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. Similarly, check for leaks around the transmission casing. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses, and all braking system pipes and hoses and fuel lines. Ensure that all cable ties or securing clips are in place, and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. p 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and

heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or

deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the

hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. If the crimped-type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with standard worm-drive clips. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks (see Haynes

Hint).

Every 20 000 miles or 12 months — diesel models 15-9 5 Where any problems are found on system

14 Wheel bolt tightness check

components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay _ particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. Similarly, whilst the vehicle is raised, take the opportunity to inspect the exhaust system and all underbody brake fluid pipes and hoses. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel, vacuum and brake hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect all hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Check the condition of the power steering fluid pipes and hoses.

~

~

1 Remove the wheel trims and check the tightness of all the wheel bolts, using a torque wrench. 2 Refit the wheel trims on completion.

15 Hinge and lock lubrication

4 Work around the vehicle and lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light machine oil.

2 Lightly

lubricate

the

bonnet

inner

of all them of the

central locking system. 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them both if either is leaking or no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

Wily

nut.

release

mechanism and exposed section of cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check the security and operation hinges, latches and locks, adjusting where required. Check the operation

16 Electrical systems check

Chapter 8. 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the movement appreciable Any driveshaft. indicates weaf in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines or loose driveshaft retaining

Drivetrain 6 Check

the

performance

of the

engine,

clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is smooth and not abnormally vague or ‘notchy’. 11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a » driveshaft joint (see Chapter 8).

HUT

12 Driveshaft gaiter check

4 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, turn the steering onto full lock then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters while squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber which may allow the grease to escape and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in

no excessive ‘sloppiness’, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Braking system 12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 13 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ in the brake pedal as vacuum builds-up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

KHUy

4 Check the operation of all electrical equipment, ie, lights, direction indicators, horn, wash/wipe system, etc. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative. wiring all accessible check 2 Visually connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage. Rectify any faults found.

17 Road test

HELE Instruments/ electrical equipment 4 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read

correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

iin

Refer to Chapter 12 for details

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road ‘feel’. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with

42.1

Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters (1) and the retaining clips (2)

1810 Maintenance procedures — diesel models

|

Every 12 months, regardless of mileage 18 Fuel filter water draining

1 In addition to taking the precautions noted above to catch any fuel spillages, connect a tube to the drain screw on the base of the fuel filter/filter housing. Place the other end of the tube in a clean jar or can. 2 Unscrew the drain screw and allow the filter

SN

eS

LN

Caution: Before starting any work on the fuel filter, wipe clean the filter assembly and the area around it; it is essential that » no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed into the system. Obtain a_ suitable container into which the filter can be drained and place rags or similar material under the filter assembly to catch any spillages. Do not allow diesel fuel to ‘contaminate components such as the _ alternator and starter motor, the coolant hoses and engine mountings, and any - wiring.

to drain until clean fuel, free of dirt or water,

emerges from the tube (approximately 100 cc is usually sufficient) (see illustration). Note that it maybe necessary to slacken the filter housing cover bolt to allow the fuel to drain. 3 Securely close the drain screw and remove the tube, containers and rag, mopping-up any spilt fuel. Where necessary, securely tighten the housing cover screw to the specified torque. 4 On completion, dispose safely of the drained fuel. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks

18.2 Draining maker from the fuel filter

(of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted. 5 If necessary, bleed the fuel system as described in Chapter 4B.

Every 20 000 miles (80 000 km) or 2 years 1 Open the bonnet, and pull up the rubber weatherseal from the flange at the rear of the engine compartment (see illustration). 2 Open the cover in the water deflector for access to the pollen filter (see illustration). 3 Release the clips from each end, then lift

is Pollen filter renewal

Wil

19.1 Pull up the rubber weatherseal . .

19.2 ...then open the cover...

out the filter (see illustration). 4 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the removal procedure; make sure that the marking is visible on the right-hand end of the filter, as viewed through the cover.

19.3 ...and lift out the pollen filter

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) orre yous 20 Remote pane battery

s pana ,

on ve

_ Note:

EN

i

i

& Thee

oe

Ri

The

following

procedure

must

be

performed within 3 minutes, otherwise the remote contro! unit will have to be _ reprogrammed. 1 Using a screwdriver, prise the battery cover from the ignition key fob (see illustrations).

2 Note how the circular battery is fitted, then carefully remove it from the contacts.

3 Fit the new battery and refit the cover -making sure that it clips fully onto the base.

20.1a

Prise off the battery cover...

20.1b ... and remove the circular battery

Maintenance procedures — diesel models 1Be11 Every 2 years, regardless of mileage Never leave antifreeze lying around in an

21 Hydraulic fluid renewal

open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,

Warning: Hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution

A

when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous --loss of braking effectiveness. Note: The brake and clutch hydraulic systems share a reservoir. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic systems as described in Chapters 6 and 9. Renew the fluid in the braking system first, then the clutch fluid. 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open the first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line.

HAYNES

Old hydraulic fluid is . : invariably much darker in colour than the new, making

it easy to distinguish the two. 3 Work through all the remaining bleed screws in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN level at all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 4 Bleed the fluid from the clutch hydraulic system as described in Chapter 6. 5 When the operation is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes and clutch-before taking the car on the road.

22 Coolant renewal ee a

AX

;

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before

remaining

in the system

starting

this pro-

cedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off _spills immediately with plenty of water.

is released, then

unscrew it and lift it off. 2 Where applicable, remove the engine undershield, then position a suitable container beneath the left-hand side of the radiator. 3 Loosen the clip and disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator, and allow the coolant to drain into the container. 4 When the flow of coolant stops, refit the bottom hose and tighten the clip. 5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used,

though this is not recommended.

Cooling system flushing 6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean. 7 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing 8 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 410 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that the manufacturer's instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing 41 Remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3 then, if the radiator top hose has been disconnected from the engine, temporarily reconnect the hose. hoses bottom the top and 12 With disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 43 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with

Wii

Cooling system draining =

but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise, wait until any pressure

reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling 14 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used.

all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components. 15 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. 16 Note that the system bleeds automatically during the warm-up period. 17 Slowly fill the system until the coolant level reaches the KALT/COLD mark on the side of the expansion tank. 18 Refit and tighten the expansion tank filler

cap. 19 Start the engine, and allow it to run until it reaches normal operating temperature (until ~

the cooling fan cuts in and out). 20 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then recheck the coolant level with reference to Weekly checks. Top-up the level if necessary and refit the expansion tank filler cap. Where applicable, refit the engine undershield.

Antifreeze mixture 21

The antifreeze should always be renewed

at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors

—

become progressively less effective. 22 Always use an ethylene-glycol based anti- . freeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. Note: Vauxhall recommend the use of ‘green’ coolant (90 297 545) in vehicles manufactured before MY2001 (Model Year), and ‘red’ coolant (09 194 431/19 40 650) in vehicles manufactured from MY2001-on. Do not mix the two types of coolant. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are given in the Specifications. 23 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling— be completely drained, system should preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for

condition and security. 24 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used,

and the date

installed.

Any subsequent

topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 25 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A ~ screenwash additive should be added to the — washer system in the quantities stated on the

bottle.

23 Exhaust emission check — & a

4 The exhaust emission check is carried out

a

initially after 3 years, then every 2 years, — K

iBe12 Every 2 years — diesel models however, on vehicles which are subject to intensive use (eg, taxis/hire cars/ambulances) it must be carried out annually. The check

involves checking the exhaust smoke density by accelerating the engine several times to its maximum unloaded speed.

2 Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty air cleaner element, otherwise, professional advice may be needed to find the cause.

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years 24 Air cleaner element renewal — SS &

3 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 4 Wipe out the casing and the cover (see illustration). Fit the new filter, noting that the rubber locating flange should be uppermost,

and secure the cover with the clips. 1 The air cleaner is located in the front righthand corner of the engine compartment. 2 Release the securing clips, and lift the air cleaner cover sufficiently to enable removal of the filter element (see illustration). Take care not to strain the wiring for the airflow meter/intake air temperature sensor wiring (as applicable) as the cover is lifted.

25 Fuel filter renewal

3 Remove the filter element from the housing and discard it. Examine the housing cover and centre bolt sealing rings for signs of damage or deterioration and renew if necessary (see illustrations). 4 Fit the new filter in the body, then fill the filter housing with fresh fuel. Ideally the fuel level should be just below the rim of the body. 5 Refit the cover to the housing then refit the centre bolt, ensuring the sealing is in position, tightening it to the specified torque (see

1 Drain the fuel filter housing (see Section 18).

illustration).

2 Unscrew the centre bolt and remove the cover from the filter housing (see illustrations).

screw as the housing is easily damaged. 6 Start the engine and bleed the fuel system as described in Chapter 4B.

Do not overtighten the cover

26 Rear brake drum check

Refer to Chapter 9.

24.2 Release the clips then lift the air cleaner cover...

i

24.4 Wipe clean the air cleaner casing before fitting the new filter

25.3a

Remove the filter element...

25.2b

25.3b ...and check the cover sealing ring for signs of damage

ni

Mena

...and lift off the cover fro m the fuel filter housing

25.5 Refit the centre bolt, ensuring the sealing ring (arrowed) is in position, and tighten it to the specified torque

2Ae1

Chapter 2 Part A: 1.6 litre SOHC petrol engine in-car repair procedures ~ -Contents Camshaft — removal, inspection and refitting .................. TOSS 4 Camshaft cover — removal and refitting ..............2.2.00065 Camshaft followers and hydraulic tappets — removal, inspection and rn tie a eee WELT UTRIS] oes SORA poe Oe AIT yo Cater

Camshaft housing and cylinder head — removal and refitting ...... 12 GCalnshaltvOll Seal — TEM@WAl sc fijtt sheets be eis wwe ayaie ne a msie me meas 9° 2

..............

Compression test — description and interpretation

eee 16 ec eee 2.2... 62. Crankshaft oil seals — renewal... 5 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting .............-..+.-5Engine oil and filter — renewal ...............-+0-- See Chapter 1A

ERGine OITOVel CHECK Man cats prmts mt oie woale oer rereSee Weekly checks Engine/transmission mountings — inspection and renewal ........ 17 Flywheel/driveplate — removal, inspection and refitting .......... 15 1 cee » oc 5 oe melee ce a ele bio tack ame eenteten ene “General information...

Oil pump — removal, overhaul and refitting .................-.- 14 Sump —removal and refitting 2: |. Sra. 9s boas @ sete hee oeletena ole13 eeees see.-e ............---

7

Timing belt covers — removal and refitting ..........-..--.-.+.+. Timing belt tensioner and sprockets — removal and refitting....... Top dead centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating .............-.

6 8 3

Timing belt - removal and refitting

Degrees of difficulty & | Fairly easy, suitable & | for beginner with x some experience

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

&\ | Difficult, suitable for EN Fairly difficult, & | suitable for competent NS experienced DIY mechanic DIY mechanic

S

x

NS Very difficult, | suitable for expert DIY or professional

S

Specifications General ECM PIG gc oes > eictsmote op oiens os

em be eer

males elma s se tues

ee eee eee ee eeeee tenes Manufacturer’s engine code .....-...ao Ne are argc) Spires ann Scania oh yo okAye ae dy ET Peart totic ao Oren nary IO Sipe OG be ee te ee hah pete ak SOS eS A ne tem ttn es ge ee eas ere a reer eee nea PRM ORE coe ee eee cree eee eee 20 ........-rotation Direction of crankshaft e nner cena neces 2... cece cece eet Compression ratio... eee ee eee tem ee eect ee nine ce MAXIMUM POWEF . ane siene sae Pritt eee STE ba. ees castle Aue SA ORR STReins epi nr Roi teeacer eC eT RC Neale Ste MIICUNI=OUltae > emrmacazta ateycis cists saelrieale® ais viv w(s afc ceormsn’ Valvé head diameter:

ST

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STAN hag. eee aS Sine

OEIC

Re

Cylinder block

Maximum gasket face distortion

Si none IC ICR RS

Ca SO

rere sree etree .....-.-.seeer

Cylinder bore diameter: Lr iaietel@cl anc orc eican 0 CAN ostoc4Lucnpye) DCUMC NEI ae IRON Sage CEC ec Cig (OR SAELS) oo usd eas Siero etl eeDhan CIRC Mego ROR teens Maximum cylinder bore ovality ....--- 60. s eee e reer eee . . . taper Maximum cylinder bore

0.05 mm 129 mm 5.87 mm 5.99 mm 90° 90° 40’ 1.1 to 1.3mm 1.4 to 1.8mm

11.20 to 40.10

11.50 mm

6.000 to 6.012 mm N/A 36mm Inlet 5.955 to 5.970 mm 6.030 to 6.045 mm Inlet

101.995 to 102.545 101.595 to 102.145 0.042 to 0.045 mm 0.052 to 0.055 mm Less than 0.03 mm

34.95 to 35.25 mm 29.95 to 30.25 mm

0.05 mm 85.992 to 86.008 mm 86.117 to 86.133 mm 0.013 mm 0.013 mm

Exhaust 5.945 to 5.960 mm 6.020 to 6.035 mm Exhaust

100.685 to 101.235 100.285 to 100.835

2Ee9

2Ee10 a

Engine removal and overhaul procedures ee en Oe Ed eee Pe

Gea

2.2 litre DOHC petrol engine (Z22SE) (continued) Pistons and rings Piston diameter: STAM CAN Bp oie ase rash tones icy Bee FFanioh neteal bunts ata ate ere oie eee eee OV GESIZ 6 Bere een ee ee Tc tidsoh Gass wlio, Pelamends: Sat ah Ones Lalnes PISTON=O-DOlrG :CICAFANCE! aiaveteciccote iia! ch«:eucvels’ oetecstsyahenene ard ed ake eteerats

Piston rings: Top (rectangular) compression ring: FIGIGIU(EMICKMESS) ais cides sale ave:erccot fevenle: gue ora) dOnt coneMac cae CRE GAD er isic ncteebascyceiayahct acter ronergo Apiejiol'e’ storleke" shORRe OMe amet abname aM WETICAlIOIAViento cca ia!Sia)lew Ai oactecotoue yeasts aed eva eeaeeas eae oe emer Middle (tapered) compression ring: FIQIONL, (CMICKMESS): 3)s/sccis.4)< secs a.age cneuenvi ctalanel ERE CO Nenana GAD UAGiae: forte aena lie soa eee via hanes sewatyece ate teen tetaoe aye alee elhc eeene Vertical: playin tesa sans clas a.« o\vte swings es, «1 abe teh aeeoineuie. One testes te Bottom oil scraper ring: FAIL (TINCKMESS) oye cine te:ance eae avinoiiese oh vce RRL ere REI Re la Date Phoice auch aa peak tasfea ahevey c ctectn. sl xo, Soave eaelave Sakti ae NVEitiGal lA, tetra tennis 6 tent eS Siow Ceara hon eGR Ci ee SSS Se ape toe te nee ot) he .+--Support bracket bolts (X1 6SZR, X16XEL and Z16XE) .......

55

41

30 55

22 41

20 8

6

SarEt iaethac’

deri. Pa Ea:

SSE

1

Petrol engine emission control systems — testing and component

Ee Pte

40

30

2

4Ce2

Emission control systems

1.7a Oxygen sensor location (Z16XE and Z18XE) 71 Mixture regulation oxygen sensor

2 Catalytic converter function oxygen sensor

ll

1.7b Oxygen sensor location (Z22SE)

1 Mixture regulation oxygen sensor

2 Catalytic converter function oxygen sensor

eee

Emission control systems ee ae

1

General information

1 All petrol engine models use unleaded petrol and also have various other features built into the fuel system to help minimise harmful emissions. All models are equipped with a crankcase emission control system, a catalytic converter, an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system and an evaporative emission control system to keep fuel vapour/ exhaust gas emissions down to a minimum. - 2 All diesel engine models are also designed to meet strict emission requirements. All models are fitted with a crankcase emission control system and a catalytic converter to keep exhaust emissions down to a minimum. All models are also fitted with an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system to further decrease exhaust emissions. 3 The emission control systems function as follows.

Petrol models Crankcase emission control 4 To reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from inside the crankcase, through a wire mesh oil separator, into the inlet tract to be burned by

the engine during normal combustion. 5 Under all conditions the gases are forced out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher crankcase pressure; if the engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure (due to increased blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return under all manifold conditions.

Exhaust emission control 6 To minimise the amount of pollutants which escape into the atmosphere, all models are fitted with a catalytic converter in the exhaust system. The system is of the closed-loop type, in which a oxygen sensor(s) in the fuel the provides’ system exhaust

injection/ignition system ECU with constant feedback, enabling the ECU to adjust the to provide the best possible mixture conditions for the converter to operate. 7 On Z16XE, Z18XE and Z22SE engines there

are tWo heated oxygen sensors fitted to the exhaust system (see _ illustrations). The sensor nearest the engine (before the catalytic converter) determines the residual oxygen content of the-exhaust gasses for mixture

correction. The sensor in the exhaust front pipe (after the catalytic converter) monitors the function of the catalytic converter to give the dsiver a warning signal if there is a fault. 8 The’ oxygen sensor’s tip is sensitive to oxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltage depending on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases; if the intake air/fuel mixture is too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen

so the sensor sends a low-voltage signal, the

voltage rising as the mixture weakens and the amount of oxygen rises in the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency of all major pollutants occurs if the intake air/fuel mixture is maintained at the chemicallycorrect ratio for the complete combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the ‘stoichiometric’ ratio). The sensor output voltage alters in a large step at this point, the ECU using the signal change as a reference point and correcting the intake air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel injector pulse width.

Evaporative emission control 9 To minimise the escape into the atmosphere of unburned hydrocarbons, an evaporative emissions control system is also fitted to all models. The fuel tank filler cap is sealed and a charcoal canister is mounted behind the righthand front wing. The canister collects the petrol vapours generated in the tank when the car is parked and stores them until they can be cleared from the canister (under the control of the fuel injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge valve into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 10 To ensure that the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an overrich mixture, the purge control valve is not opened by the ECU until the engine has warmed-up, and the engine is under load; the valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system 11 This system is designed to recirculate small quantities of exhaust gas into the inlet tract, and therefore into the combustion process. This process reduces the level of unburnt hydrocarbons present in the exhaust gas before it reaches the catalytic converter. The system is controlled by the fuel injection/ignition ECU, using the information from its various sensors, via the EGR valve. 12 On 1.6 litre models the EGR valve is an electrically-operated valve mounted on the inlet manifold. 143 On 1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre models the EGR valve assembly is mounted on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. The valve assembly contains the vacuum-operated valve and the electrical solenoid valve which is used to

switch the valve on and off.

Secondary air injection system 14 The purpose of the secondary air injection system is to decrease exhaust gas emissions when the engine is cold. The system achieves this by raising the temperature of the exhaust gases which has the effect of quickly warming the catalytic converter up to its normal operating temperature. Once the catalytic converter is up to temperature the air injection system is switched off.

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4Ce3

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15 The system consists of the pump, air cleaner, the air valve and the solenoid valve and is controlled by the fuel injection/ignition ECU. When the engine is cold, the solenoid valve switches the air valve to open and the pump injects a controlled amount of air into the cylinder head exhaust ports. The air then mixes with the exhaust gases, causing any unburned particles of the fuel in the mixture to be burnt in the exhaust port/manifold which effectively raises the temperature of the exhaust gases. Once the catalytic converter is up to temperature, the solenoid valve closes the air valve and the pump is switched off. A non-return valve prevents the exhaust gases passing through the air valve.

Diesel models Crankcase emission control 16

Refer to paragraphs 4 and 5.

Exhaust emission control 17 To minimise the level of exhaust pollutants released into the atmosphere, a catalytic converter is fitted in the exhaust system.

18 The catalytic converter consists of a canister containing a fine mesh impregnated with a catalyst material, over which the hot exhaust gases pass. The catalyst speeds up the oxidation of harmful carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons and soot, effectively reducing the quantity of harmful products released into the atmosphere via the exhaust

gases.

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system 19 This system is designed to recirculate small quantities of exhaust gas into the inlet tract, and therefore into the combustion process. This process reduces the level of unburnt hydrocarbons present in the exhaust gas before it reaches the catalytic converter. The system is controlled by the injection system ECU, using the information from its various sensors, via the EGR valve on the upper section of the inlet manifold. The EGR

valve is vacuum operated and is switched on and off by an electrical solenoid valve.

2

Petrol engine emission

control systems - testing and component renewal

LLL

Crankcase emission control 1 The components of this system require no attention other than to check that the hose(s) are clear and undamaged at regular intervals.

Evaporative emission control system Testing 2 If the system is thought to be faulty, disconnect the hoses from the charcoal canister and purge control valve and check

4Ce4

Emission control systems

Pe DIR ag SEE aROS

| NR

a

PL

9-5.

a

aM Ae PL

I

aa

a

Le al eae 8 Ee

a

et

can be thoroughly checked using diagnostic equipment. Once these checked and are known to be free the fault must be in the catalytic which must be renewed.

the special have been from faults, converter,

Catalytic converter renewal 15

Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 20.

Oxygen sensor renewal

2.8 Purge valve location (arrowed) (X18XE and X20XEV)

2.9 Unclip the purge valve from the air cleaner housing (Z18XE, X18XE1 and Z22SE)

that they are clear by blowing through them. Full testing of the system can only be carried out using specialist electronic equipment which is connected to the engine management system diagnostic wiring connector (see Chapter 4A). If the purge control valve or charcoal canister are thought to be faulty, they must be renewed.

valve is mounted on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. To improve access to the valve retaining bolts, remove the DIS module as described in Chapter 5B (see illustration). Undo the retaining bolts and remove the purge valve and mounting bracket from the cylinder head. 9 On Z18XE, X18XE1 and Z22SE engines, the purge valve is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, behind the air cleaner housing. Unclip the valve from the air cleaner housing to remove (see illustration). 10 To renew the valve, ensure the ignition is switched off then depress the retaining clip and disconnect the wiring connector from the valve. 11 Disconnect the hoses from the valve, noting their correct fitted locations and remove it from the engine. 12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring the valve is fitted the correct way around and the hoses are

Charcoal canister renewal 3 The charcoal canister is located behind the right-hand front wing. To gain access to the canister, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on

axle stands. 4 Remove the retaining screws and fasteners

and remove the wheelarch liner to gain access ’ to the canister. 5 Slacken and remove the retaining clamp nut and free the canister from its mounting bracket. Mark the hoses for identification purposes then disconnect them and remove the canister from the vehicle.

6 Refitting

is a reverse

of the

securely connected.

removal

procedure, ensuring the hoses are correctly

and securely reconnected. ‘Purge valve renewal

Exhaust emission control

20 Refitting is a reverse of the removal pro-

Testing

intake ducts as described in Chapter 4A to

13 The performance of the catalytic converter can be checked only by measuring the exhaust gases using a good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas analyser, as described in Chapter 1A.

gain access to the valve. Unbolt the valve mounting bracket from the manifold then the valve and bracket can then be separated. 8 On X18XE and X20XEV engines, the purge

14 If the CO level at the tailpipe is too high, the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer so that the complete fuel injection and ignition systems, including the oxygen sensor,

2.18a Oxygen sensor (arrowed)

2.18b Oxygen sensor

(X16XEL)

(X18XE and X20XEV)

7 On 1.6 litre models, the purge valve is mounted onto the inlet manifold. On Z16XE engines it may be necessary to remove the air

Note: On Z16XE, Z18XE and Z22SE engines there are two heated oxygen sensors fitted to the exhaust system. The sensor nearest the engine is for mixture regulation and the sensor furthest from the engine is to check the operation of the catalytic converter (see Section 1). Note: The oxygen sensor is delicate and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are used on it. 16 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop the engine and disconnect the battery negative terminal. 17 For sensors fitted in the exhaust front pipe, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 18 Trace the wiring back from the oxygen sensor which is to be replaced, and disconnect_its wiring connector, freeing the wiring from any relevant retaining clips or ties and noting its correct routing (see illustrations). Caution: Take great care not burn yourself on the hot manifold/sensor. 19 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from the exhaust system front pipe/manifold. Where applicable recover the sealing washer and discard it; a new one should be used-on refitting. cedure, using a new sealing washer (where applicable). Prior to installing the sensor, apply a smear of high temperature grease to the sensor threads (Vauxhall recommend the use of special grease 19 48 602, part no. 90 295 397 — available from your Vauxhall dealer). Tighten the sensor to the specified torque and ensure that the wiring is correctly routed and in no danger of contacting either the exhaust system or

engine.

2.18¢ Mixture regulation sensor (arrowed) fitted to the top of the manifold (Z16XE and Z18XE)

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Emission control systems 4Ce5 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Testing 21 Comprehensive testing of the system can only be carried out using specialist electronic equipment which is connected to the engine management system ‘diagnostic wiring connector (see Chapter 4A). If the EGR valve is thought to be faulty, it must be renewed.

EGR valve renewal 1.6 litre models 22 Ensure the ignition is switched off, then disconnect the wiring connector from the

2.22 On 1.6 litre SOHC petrol engines, disconnect the wiring connector...

2.23 ... then undo the retaining screws (arrowed) and remove the EGR valve from the inlet manifold

valve. On SOHC engines the valve is fitted to the centre of the inlet manifold and on DOHC engines it is mounted on the left-hand end of the manifold (see illustration). 23 Undo the retaining screws and remove the valve and its gasket from the manifold (see illustration). 24 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using a new gasket and tightening the valve bolts to the specified torque.

1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre models 25 Ensure the ignition is switched off then disconnect the wiring connector and vacuum hose from the EGR valve which is mounted on the left-hand end of the cylinder head (see illustrations). 26 Undo the retaining screws and remove the valve and its gasket from the end of the cylinder head (see illustration). 27 Refitting is the reverse of removal using a new gasket and tightening the valve bolts to the specified torque.

Secondary air injection system Testing 28 Comprehensive testing of the system can only be carried out using specialist electronic equipment which is connected to the engine management system diagnostic wiring connector (see Chapter 4A). If any component

is thought to be faulty, it must be renewed.

Air injection valve renewal 29 The air injection valve is located at the front

of the cylinder head. On 1.6 litre engines the

2.26 Fit new metal gasket - note position of arrow for refitting

2.25a

EGR valve location (arrowed)

(X18XE and X29XEV) valve is situated above the exhaust manifold, and on 1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre engines it is on the left-hand end of the head (see illustration). 30 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the valve then release the retaining clip and disconnect the air hose (see illustration). 31 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the valve to the metal pipe and remove the valve and its gasket from the metal pipe. 32 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using a new gasket.

Air injection valve connecting pipe renewal

2.25b

Disconnecting the wiring connector from the EGR valve (Z22SE)

shroud in position and remove both items from the manifold. 35 Slacken and remove the pipe retaining bolts then remove the pipe and gasket from the front of the cylinder head.

36 Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting the following. a) Ensure the mating surfaces are clean and

dry and use a new gasket. b) Apply a smear of high-temperature grease to the threads of the pipe retaining bolts prior to refitting. c) Tighten all bolts to their specified torque settings (where given).

1.6 litre engine

1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre engine

33 Remove the air injection valve as described in paragraphs 29 to 31. 34 Undo the retaining bolts securing the pipe support bracket and the exhaust manifold

37 Remove the air injection valve as described in paragraphs 29 to 31. 38 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the shroud from the exhaust manifold.

2.29 Air injection valve location (arrowed)

2.30 Air injection valve vacuum pipe (A) and air hose (B) (X16XEL)

(X18XE and X20XEV)

_

4Ce6

Emission control systems

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ee

Air injection pump filter renewal 45 To gain access to the filter, open up the bonnet then undo the retaining screws and remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11). The filter is clamped to the centre of the vehicle front crossmember, behind the bumper (see illustration). 46 Slacken the clamp bolt then disengage the filter from the clamp and disconnect it from the air hose. 47 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

2. 41 The air injection pump (arrowed) is located beside the battery

39 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the connecting pipe from the front of the cylinder head. Recover the gaskets which are fitted between the pipe and cylinder head, and the gasket which is fitted between the pipe and cylinder head bracket. 40 Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting the following. a) Ensure the mating surfaces are clean and dry and use new gaskets. b) Apply a smear of high-temperature grease to the threads of the pipe retaining bolts prior to refitting. c) Tighten all bolts to their specified torque settings (where given).

41 To gain access to the pump, remove the battery and mounting plate (see Chapter 5A) (see illustration). 42 Disconnect the air hoses from the pump then undo the pump mounting bracket retaining nuts. 43 Remove the pump assembly from the engine compartment, disconnecting the wiring connector as it becomes accessible. If necessary the pump and mounting bracket can then be separated. Refitting

is

the

reverse

of

48 The solenoid valve is mounted on the lefthand side of the engine compartment. To locate the valve, trace the vacuum hose back from the air valve on the front of the engine. On 1.8, 2.0 and 2.2 litre models it will be necessary to remove the battery to gain access to the valve. 49 Disconnect the wiring connector from the valve and detach the vacuum hoses, noting each ones correct fitted location. 50 Undo the retaining screws and remove the valve from the engine compartment. 51

Refitting

is the

ensuring the vacuum reconnected.

reverse

hoses

of

removal,

are correctly

removal,

tightening the retaining nuts securely.

control systems - testing

and component renewal

Catalytic converter renewal 4 The catalytic converter is an integral part of the exhaust system front pipe/manifold. Refer to Chapter 4B, Section 16, for removal and refitting details.

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Testing 5 Comprehensive testing of the system can only be carried out using specialist electronic equipment which is connected to the injection system diagnostic wiring connector (see Chapter 4B). If the EGR valve or solenoid valve are thought to be faulty, they must be renewed. EGR valve renewal 6 If the EGR valve is to be renewed, it will be necessary

to

renew

the

complete

upper

section of the inlet manifold (see Chapter 4B). The valve assembly is not available separately and should not be removed from the manifold.

3 Diesel engine emission

Air injection pump renewal

44

Air injection solenoid valve renewal

gases using a good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas analyser as described in Chapter 1B. 3 If the catalytic converter is thought to be faulty, before assuming the catalytic converter is faulty, it is worth checking the problem is not due to a faulty injector(s), Refer to your Vauxhall dealer for further information.

EGR solenoid valve renewal

VW

Crankcase emission control 1 The components of this system require no attention other than to check that the hose(s) are clear and undamaged at regular intervals.

Exhaust emission control Testing 2 The performance of the catalytic converter can be checked only by, measuring the exhaust

7 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A) to gain access to the valve which is located in the front left-hand corner of the engine compartment. Note that there are two valves, the EGR system valve and the inlet manifold switchover valve; the EGR system valve can be identified by its black wiring connector. 8 Disconnect the wiring connector and vacuum hoses from the valve then undo the retaining screws and remove the valve from its mounting bracket. 9 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

4 Catalytic converter general information and precautions 1 The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance in itself, but there are some facts of which an

owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.

Petrol models

2.45 Location of secondary air injection system pump and filter

1 Secondary air injection system pump

2 Secondary air injection system filter

a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car equipped with a catalytic converter — the lead will coat the precious metals, reducing their converting efficiency and will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s schedule. Cc) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little as possible) until the fault is cured.

Emission control systems

4Ce7

————————————

d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car — this will soak the catalytic converter in unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when the engine does start. e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high engine speeds. f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic converter. g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the engine burns oil to the extent of /eaving a visible trail of blue smoke.

~~

‘

h) Remember that the catalytic converter operates at very high temperatures. DO NOT, therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of dead leaves after a long run. i) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools during servicing work. j) In some cases a sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from the exhaust. This is common to many catalytic converter-equipped cars and

once the car has covered a few thousand miles the problem should disappear.

k) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven car, should last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles — if the converter is no longer effective it must be renewed.

Diesel models 2 Refer to the information given in parts f, g, h, i and k of the petrol models information

given above.

4 oF “=

SAe1

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eR

Mn

rk Aes

es cocker Pre RN

Ai yh eae cdo

System type .... 2.0... e cece

cee

oe.

Oh

a

ae

ela, 2 Case gistenslter's a4)=

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teen eens

Engine type 1.6 litre SOHC petrol engine 1.6 litre DOHC petrol engine 1.8 litre DOHC petrol engine dae UNS. DOES pelrol enging 2.0 litre high-pressure turbo diesel engine

2.0 litre low-pressure turbo diesel engine 2.0 2.0 2.2 1.6

litre litre litre litre

DOHC petrol engine high-pressure turbo diesel engine high-pressure turbo diesel engine DOHC petrol engine

1.8 litre DOHC petrol engine 2.2 litre DOHC petrol engine

12 volt, negative earth

ae

Battery Charge-condition: ayer ay SAM Ai te Sic Mrap eee retae tuberin, PechcUCI Ra a ROR NON RS aca rio Mih cen oth akPbion. acy ces eich Nic ama Rca onan WRC Iretannel. eer OIC en ey = so eucgeege err oy Averell

12.5 volts 12.6 volts 12.7 volts

Very difficult,

experienced DIY

or professional

5Ae2

Starting and charging systems

Torque wrench settings

Nm

Alternator fixings: Diesel models: Alternator bracket (coolant flange) to cylinder head ............ Alternator bracket to cylinder head ......... 2.0.0: ee eee ee eee Alternator lOweltixinG?OOll ters errs eis ace elsteens ehagel aerete esr eae Petrol models: Altemator-to-bracketDoltSas: © simtersmt oe ate oh gcurvaeies meters Alternator bracket -to-cylinder block bolts ................-45 Alternator bracket-to-cylinder block bolts (Z22SE engine) ....... SUOPOLUDKACKETHDONS © m.conetere a cha Dern aicte oc cosuete Glos cstoieeloueieiats Engine torquelsuppon Od) OOliSis amt mia oie acre vis sidiena aleienerst Knock sensor retaining bolt (Z22SE engine) ..............--20085 Oil level SENSONtO/SUMPse cities anew se wis are erotarscave seventies aitcle etseawie Oil pressure switch: Diesel MOS Suse eeteaaee ches doves: his coveteacacs, eke aura menis Maree enccarae: Petrol models:

X16SZR, X16XEL, Z16XE, X18XE1 and Z18XE engines ......... MASXEand XZOXEV CNGINCS

Airbag

See diagram 9 ABS/TCS See diagrams 13,14,15 &16

See diagram 9 ABS/TCS

jes) =]

Engine management

OO) © O

See diagrams 13 to 20 Engine management

Automatic transmission (not shown)

See pe hl 9

SZ

ae)

TC

GQ

See diagram 9

fe

See diagrams 13,14,15&16 Engine management

eS

See diagram 9 TCS

ABS/TCS

See diagram 2 Diagnostic socket pin7

See diagram 9

ABS/TCS }

Automatic transmission hi (hot siows),

See diagrams 13 to 16 Engine management Bn/Wh eee

Bu

See diagram 2 Diagnostic socket pin 7 See diagrams 13 to 16 Engine management Bn

Bn

Bu

Bu

Bu/Bk

See diagram 3 Main beam headlights See diagram 5 Rear foglights

See diagram 5 Front foglights

See diagram 5 Rear foglights

a Br/Wh See diagram 3

Main beam headlights

=e

See diagram 5 Front foglights

Bk/Gn

0) Fee 4 RH direction indicator

= Br

See diagram 4 LH direction indicator

12°28

Wiring diagrams

Wire colours Brown Blue Yellow Green

Rd Bk Wh Vt

Red Black White Violet Mauve

Gy

Grey

Vi

Og

Orange

DBu Dark blue

P

P

LBu_

|

tes dati
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