Haynes Peugeot 306 1993 to 1999 Service and Repair Manual [3073] 1859605540, 9781859605547

Citation preview

| s a r » T O E PEUG SSauacla

1993 to 1999 ae toT registration) Petrol & Diesel

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and not forgetting... We don’t just publish car manuals, you know! In addition to the hundred million plus car manuals we have sold worldwide, Haynes also produce a wide range of practical books and manuals on subjects such as Home DIY and Computing, Caravanning, Driving Abroad, Learning to Drive and our new, innovative and highly successful Family Series. No matter what the subject, our essential no-nonsense, easy-to-follow approach remains the same. Haynes

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illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or.contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic.in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

eugeot 306 ervice and Repair Manual Mark Coombs and Steve Rendle ‘Models covered

(3073 - 384 - 4AG4)

Peugeot 306 models with petrol & Diesel engines, including special/limited editions; 3- & 5-door Hatchback, 4-door Sedan/Saloon and 5-door Estate

1124 co, 1360 cc, 1587 cc, 1761 cc & 1998 cc petrol engines 1769 cc & 1905 cc Diesel & Turbo Diesel engines Covers major mechanical features of Cabriolet and Roadster Does not cover GTi-6 model or AL4 automatic transmission

© Haynes Publishing 2003

ABCDE

Printed in the USA

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

eS :

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, “without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 554 0

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de |'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

~~

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

PEUGEOT

306

Introduction to the Peugeot 306

Page

094

Safety first!

Page

0Oe5

If your car won't start

Page

06

Jump starting

Page

097

Wheel changing

Page

098

Identifying leaks

Page

099

Towing

Page

009

Introduction

Page

010

Underbonnet check points

Page

0¢10

‘Page

0*12

Coolant level

Page

0913

Power steering fluid level

Page

0913

Roadside repairs

Weekly checks

|

Engine oil level

Brake fluid level

Page

0°14

Washer fluid level

Page

0014

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

015

Battery

Page

0°16

Electrical systems

Page

0°16

Wiper blades

Page

0°17

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0°18

Tyre pressures

Page 0019

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Peugeot 306 petrol models

Page

1Ae1

Servicing specifications

Page

1Ae2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1A4

Maintenance procedures

Page

1A°7

Peugeot 306 diesel models Servicing specifications

Page 1Be1 Page

1Be2

Maintenance schedule

:

Page

1Be3

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Be6

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Page 2Ae1 Page 2Be1

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ce1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2De1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page

3e1

Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor petrol models

Page

4Ae1

Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point petrol injection models

Page

4Be1

Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point petrol injection models

Page

4Ce1

Fuel/exhaust systems - Diesel models

Page. 4De1

Emission control systems

Page

4Ee1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system (petrol models)

Page

5Be1

Preheating system (Diesel models)

Page

5Ce1

Page

61

Transmission Clutch ‘Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

.

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Braking system

Page

Qe

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical systems

Page

12¢1

Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Body Equipment

Wiring diagrams

|

Page 12°27

REFERENCE Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Page

REFe3

Page

REFe4

Vehicle identification ;

General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe5

Disconnecting the battery

Page

REFe5

Tools and working facilities

Page

REF*6

MOT test checks

Page

REFe8

Fault finding

Page REFe12

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe20

Index

Page REF*24

.

oe4 INtroduction The Peugeot 306 range was introduced in the UK in the Spring of 1993. Originally, the 306 was available with a choice of 1.4 litre (1360 cc), 1.6 litre (1587 cc) and 1.8 litre (1761 cc) petrol engines. At first, models were only available in a five-door Hatchback form. All engines are derived from the well-proven TU and XU series engines, which have appeared in many Peugeot and Citroén vehicles. The engine is of four-cylinder overhead camshaft design, mounted transversely and inclined to the rear, with the transmission mounted on the left-hand side. All models have a four-. or five-speed manual transmission; the 1.8 litre model also being offered with the option of a four-speed automatic transmission. In Summer 1993, the 1.9 litre (1905 cc) Diesel engine was introduced into the range. The engine is from the well-proven XUD series, with both non-turbo and Turbo versions of the engine being available. In early 1994, a three-door version of all models was introduced, and at the same time the 2.0 litre (1998 cc) petrol engine models were also brought into the range. In the summer of 1994, the 306 Cabriolet was introduced. To complete the range, in the Autumn, the four-door

Sedan (Saloon) versions of most models were introduced. - Additional new and revised models, including limited and special editions have been regularly added to the range with a major styling facelift taking place in Spring 1997. Together with detailed styling and mechanical revisions to existing model versions, this facelift saw the launch of an Estate model and the introduction of 16-valve versions of the 1.8 and 2.0 litre petrol engines. All models have fully-independent front suspension. The rear suspension is semi-independent, with torsion bars and trailing arms. A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the 306 range to suit most tastes, including central locking, electric windows, an electric sunroof, and an air bag. An anti-lock braking system and air conditioning system are available as options on certain models. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, the Peugeot 306 should prove reliable and very economical. The engine compartment is welldesigned, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Peugeot 306 Hatchback

Your Peugeot 306 Manual

The Peugeot 306 Team Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors

Steve Rendle

Mark Coombs

Sub-editor Editor

& Page Make-up

Workshop manager

Sophie Yar

Steve Churchill

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

References to the “left” and “right” of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Paul Buckland

Photo Scans

Paul Tanswell

Acknowledgements

Cover illustration & Line Art

Roger Healing

Certain illustrations are the copyright of the Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with their permission. Special thanks to Bakers of Gillingham who provided several of the project vehicles used in the origination of this manual. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or

Wiring diagrams

Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

omissions from, the information given.

;

Safety first! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. ;

General hazards Scalding * Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is-hot. ° Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

* Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication ¢ Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often

contain carbon

¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

;

rapidly fatal if inhaled.

4)

Never run the en

Burning

A

monoxide, which is

gine ina .

.

venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

The battery

poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

your pocket.

e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

© Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. © Do not smoke or allow naked lights

(including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). © Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock ® Ignition HT a

asset

voltage canbe dangerous,

especially to ie people with heart 7

problems or a. pacemaker. Don’t ~*~ work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

=?

¢ This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to

¢ When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

confined space such as a garage : aay with the doors shut. ¢ Fuel vapour is also

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in

ramps. Never

Hydrofluoric acid

amputate the limb concerned.

( ue

Poisonous or irritant substances

e¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on

Special hazards

e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery

is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or _ allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment ¢ Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... | DO

|

¢ Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. e Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

° Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the

DON’T * Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. Sid * Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

* Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip —

vehicle.

and cause injury.

e Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

¢ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

* Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o¢ Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t J start and the starter motor doesn’tbd turn

If your car won’tbd start even though the starter motor turns as normal

L] If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’. [] Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. L] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

C] Is there fuel in the tank? [] Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check that the spark plug HT leads (where applicable) are securely connected by pushing them home.

The throttle potentiometer wiring plug may cause problems if not connected securely.

Check the ECU multi-plug for security (where applicable) with the ignition switched off.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

E Check that the ignition coil wiring plug is secure, and spray with water-dispersant if necessary.

Roadside repairs o-7 HAYNES

HINT

=@

Jump starting

Jump Starting will get you out ‘of trouble, but you must-correct

whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

:

$)

: cite : The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis switched off.

or broken, alternator wiring fault or

Y

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is

alternator itself faulty).

switched off.

eto

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

¥

v¥

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

wv

Ifthe battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

vY

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

a

: eere Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

a

o ; 8 Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

3

2 auldallan we Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

I I I I i |

ee oe a SI o

aae

lee T BS

be.

4

ul

cal

“

iJ

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. _Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

cae nal tne line tn aging eae Lge | toy ne

exe

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of

connection. Turn off the lights etc.

—-

‘oes Roadside repairs Wheel changing Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

t

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation [J

When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so. (1) Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. L) Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

Changing the wheel

If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with

| [)

L]

Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed — a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

automatic transmission. ’

From inside the boot area, use the wheelbrace to lower the spare wheel cradle.

Slide the spare wheel out from the underside of the car.

For safety in the event of the jack slipping, position the spare wheel under the sill, close to the jacking point.

Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) then slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn.

Locate the jack below the reinforced jacking point and on firm ground (don’t jack the car at any other point on the sill).

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, remove the bolts and lift the wheel clear.

Finally... CL) Remove the wheel chocks. []

Position the spare wheel and fit the bolts. Tighten moderately with the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.

Tighten the wheel bolts in the sequenc

shown, fit the wheel trim, and secure the punctured wheel in the spare wheel cradle.

Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

[]

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a - pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

L)

Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. :

Roadside repairs og Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid.can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

ZN

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

HAYNES

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a HINT clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distictively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Oil from filter \

\

a 5

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid -

Power steering fluid

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe . connectors on the steering rack.

a

a Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: (J Use

a proper

tow-rope

- they are not

expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. L Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work.

1 Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.

L] Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. LJ Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure

will be required

brakes, since the vacuum

to operate

the

servo unit is only

- operational with the engine running.

before setting 1 Only drive the distance smoothly and

down at junctions. (J On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Warning: To prevent damage to

1] On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

CJ The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. C1 Make sure that both drivers know the route

off. at moderate speeds and keep towed to a minimum. Drive allow plenty of time for slowing

A

the catalytic converter, a vehicle must not be push-started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see “Jump starting”).

Fe ,age ee tl oe ee oe a, Mi 6 le at) ee A a ay

o10 Weekly checks

Introduction C] Keeping

an eye on tyre condition

and

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill

L] Many breakdowns are caused by electrical

or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

problems. Battery-related faults are particularly

(] If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. ] If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points 4q 1.4 litre petrol A Engine oil level dipstick

B Engine oil filler cap

C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir

E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery

¢q 1.6 litre petrol A Engine oil level dipstick

B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank D Brake fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Washer fluid reservoir

G Battery

Weekly checks oe11

q 1.8 & 2.0 litre (8-valve) petrol Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir

Battery PY om7nmovoogn

a Non-turbo

diesel Engine oil level dipstick and filler cap Coolant expansion tank Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir

Battery | > 7™m™00QOWU

o-12 Weekly checks q Turbo diesel A Engine oil level dipstick and filler cap

B Coolant expansion tank

C Brake fluid reservoir 1D Power steering fluid reservoir

E Washer fluid reservoir F Battery

‘Engine oil level Before you start V Make sure that your car is on level ground. vV Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. fin Naas

ff

;

immediately after driving the vehicle; some of the oil will

the

oil

is

checked

remain in the upper engine

“components, resulting in an inaccurate ; feading on the dipstick!

The correct oil

fa

ses mee~

se

arr

The dipstick is located at the rear of the engine on 1.8 litre petrol engine models, and at the front of the engine on all other

models.

a

%

Withdraw the dipstick. Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the

tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants and fluids”).

Car Care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place -some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil. @ Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (See photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage : , :

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark.

4

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a ~ funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add

may occur. Oil seal failure may result ifthe —anproximately 1.5 litres of oil will raise the _the oil slowly, checking the level on the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. level from the lower mark to the upper mark. dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

Weekly checks oe«13 Coolant level Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great

risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

ae)

Car Care ® Witia sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or weiness, and rectify as necessary.

@ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold then turn the pressure cap on the expansion tank slowly anticlockwise, and pause until any pressure remaining in the system is released. Unscrew the cap and lift off.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant level is up to the “MAXI” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure. Re-check that the cap is securely tightened once the engine is warm.

i SS

The coolant level varies with engine temperature. The level is checked in the expansion tank, which is built into the side of the radiator. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the “MAXI” and “MINI” marks.

Power steering fluid level Before you start: ~

Park the vehicle on level ground.

Y

Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.

Y

The engine should be turned off.

HAYNES

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the _ engine has been stopped.

=

The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. The fluid level should be checked with the engine stopped. A translucent reservoir is fitted, with “MAXI” and “MINI” markings on the top of the reservoir.

ap

%¥

4 4%

};

The fluid level should be between the “MAXI” and “MINI” marks. If topping-up is necessary, and before removing the cap, wipe the surrounding area so that dirt does not enter the reservoir.

Safety First! @ The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

»

Vere

Unscrew the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the cap as it is removed. Top up the fluid level to the “MAXI” mark, using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill the reservoir), then refit and tighten the filler cap.

0014 Weekly checks Brake fluid level Warning: @ Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage _ painted surfaces, so use _ extreme caution when handling and pouring it. @ Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time,

as

it absorbs

moisture

from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking

Safety First! HAYNES

HINT

@ If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

¢ Make sure that your car is

on level ground.

e The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never

@ If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned. 7

be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark. f

effectiveness.

wee

oO

wt

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located on the front of the vacuum servo

unit in the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.

an:

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9).

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely and wipe off any spilt fluid.

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the

freeze during cold weather. On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Washer fluid level Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

screenwash will become too diluted, and will

a’ The windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer fluid reservoir is located at the front right-hand side of the engine compartment. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.

When

__topping-up

the reservoir a screenwash additive should be added in

the bottle.

quantities

recommended

on

the

a

Weekly checks oe1s Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in. good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have-—the expense of replacing all four tyres at-once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyré has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,

and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

ae, SS Vas

Tread Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The _ band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

P dee Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge..

Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 0°19.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Wear

o-16 Weekly checks Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual. V Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. V Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. v If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

Ove.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a

cracked case or cover.

1

> U.ae se —— 4io.f‘

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17.4 Lift off the fuel filter cover...

17.5.

. then lift the filter from the housing

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|

ipera Every 18 000 miles - Diesel models" until the level reaches the maximum cold mark. This is the middle notch of the three, next to the number “50”. 7 Once the level is up to the appropriate mark on the dipstick, refit the dipstick. Start the engine, and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Switch the engine off, then recheck the level, topping-up if necessary. Take the car on a moderate journey to fully distribute the new fluid around the transmission, then recheck the fluid level as described in Section 8.

19 Hinge and lock lubrication =S&

x

we

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a general-purpose light oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release 18.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain plugs (arrowed). Transmission is refilled via the dipstick tube (1) 2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off these should be renewed whenever they are the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. ' disturbed. Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front 5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean of the car and support it on axle stands (see the drain plug threads and those of the “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Note that, transmission casing. Fit a new sealing washer when refilling and checking the fluid level, the to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, transmission, tightening each securely. If the to ensure accuracy. car was raised for the draining operation, now 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a lower it to the ground. Make sure that the car - - suitable container under the transmission. The is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side). transmission has two drain plugs: one on the 6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward sump, and another on the bottom of the operation, adding the specified type of fluid to differential housing (see illustration). the transmission a little at a time via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine-mesh Warning: If the fluid is hot, take gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no precautions against scalding. foreign matter enters the transmission. Allow 4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the plenty of time for the fluid level to settle fluid to drain completely into the container. properly..On models with two notches on the Clean the drain plugs, being especially careful dipstick, fill the transmission until the level to wipe any metallic particles off the magnetic reaches the upper mark. On models with three insert. Discard the original sealing washers; notches on the dipstick, fill the transmission

20.2a On non-turbo models, release the clips securing the air cleaner cover...

20.2b

mechanism and exposed section of inner cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check carefully the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Check the operation of the central locking system (if fitted).

4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

20 Air filter renewal

HOE Non-turbo models 1 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect

the intake duct from the top of the filter housing.

Slacken

the retaining

clips, and

remove the duct linking the intake to the rear. of the air cleaner housing. _ 2 Release the retaining clips, then liftoffthe filter housing lid (see illustrations).

... then lift off the cover...

Every 18 000 miles - Diesel models 1pe15

20.3 .. . and withdraw the air filter

20.8 On Turbo models, release the air cleaner cover clips (arrowed). .

3 Remove the filter element from the housing (see illustration). 4 Wipe clean the inside of the filter housing and fit the new filter element, making sure that it is correctly seated. 5 Refit the lid, and secure it in position with the retaining clips. 6 Reconnect the intake ducts, securing them in position with the retaining clips.

Turbo models 7 Access to the air filter is obtained from under the front of the vehicle. If necessary, to improve access, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 8 Release the retaining clips, and remove the

20.9 . cand withdraw the air filter VSEE SS from the housing cover from the base of the air cleaner housing (see illustration). 9. Withdraw the filter from the housing (see illustration).

10 Wipe clean the inside of the filter housing, then fit the new filter. 11 Refit the base to the housing, and secure it in position with the retaining clips. Where necessary, lower the vehicle to the ground.

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) 2 Rear brake shoe check -

“\

on pees with rear drum brakes

ww

22 Rear brake pad check models with rear disc brakes a

~ 1 Remove the rear brake drums, and check the brake shoes for wear or contamination. At the

same

time,

also

inspect

the

wheel

cylinders for signs of leakage, and the brake * drum for signs of wear. Refer to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9 for further information.

VU

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned (see Haynes

Hint). This will permit the operation of the caliper to be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself to be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

23 Manual transmission oil level SS check

1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Prise out the clips and remove the access cover from the left-hand wheelarch liner. 3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is on the left-hand end of the transmission (see illustration). Unscrew the plug and clean it; discard the sealing washer. — 4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will

have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not

23.3 Boovind the manual transmission _ filler/level plug

necessarily indicate that the level is correct. To ensure that a true level is established, wait until

18-16 Every 36 000 miles - Diesel models the initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see illustrations). The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-

quality oil of the specified

type (refer to

“Lubricants and fluids”). 5 Filling the transmission with oil is an extremely awkward operation; above all, allow plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly

before checking it. If a large amount is added to the transmission, and a large amount flows

out on checking the level, refit the filler/level plug and take the vehicle on a short journey so that the hew oil is distributed fully around the transmission

components,

then recheck

the level when it has settled again. 6 If the transmission has been overfilled so that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is removed, check that the car is completely level (front-to-rear and side-toside), and allow the surplus to drain off into a suitable container.

23.4a

Topping-up the transmission oil level

7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing washer to the filler/level plug. Refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Wash. off any spilt oil then refit the access cover securing it in position with the retaining clips.

23.4b Oil level is correct when the oil stops flowing out of the filler/level hole

24 Timing belt renewal ,

'

N ~w

x

Refer to Chapter 2C.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) 25 Coolant renewal

WU Cooling system draining Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before _ starting this A procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

2 Position a suitable container beneath the coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator. 3 Loosen the drain plug (there is no need to remove it completely) and allow the coolant to drain into the container. If desired, a length of tubing can be fitted to the drain outlet to direct the flow of coolant during draining (see illustration). 4 To assist draining, open the cooling system bleed screws. These are located in the heater matrix outlet hose union (to improve access, it may be located in an extension hose), on the engine compartment bulkhead, and on the top of the thermostat housing. On some models, there may also be a bleed screw in the top left-hand end of the radiator (see illustrations). 5 When the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below the cylinder block drain plug. The drain plug is located at the rear of the cylinder block. 6 Remove the drain plug, and allow the coolant to drain into the container.

and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 8 Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs on completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing 9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if

the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean.

10 The radiator should’ be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and

7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason

lift it off.

other than renewal, then provided it is clean

11 To flush the radiator, first tighten the radiator drain plug, and the radiator bleed screw, where applicable. 12 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 13 insert a garden hose into the radiator top

25.4a Heater hose bleed screw (arrowed)

25.4b Radiator bleed screw (arrowed)

1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait until any pressure remaining in the ‘system is released, then push the cap down,

25.3 Fita length of tubing to the radiator drain plug (arrowed) to assist draining viewed from above

Every 2 years inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and keep flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 14 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent.-It is important that _ their manufacturer’s . instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Diesel models 18617 31 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

26 Brake fluid renewal

Engine flushing 15 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder block drain plug, and tighten the cooling system bleed screws. 16 Remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the thermostat

cover. 17 With the top~ and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a. garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 18 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling 19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and'clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. An antifreeze mixture must be used all year round,

to prevent

corrosion

of the engine

components (see following sub-Section). Also check that the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs are in place and tight. 20 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. 21 Open all the cooling system bleed screws

(see paragraph 4). 22 Some of the cooling system hoses are positioned at a higher level than the top of the radiator expansion tank.. It is therefore necessary to use a “header tank” when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Peugeot dealers use a special header tank, the

same effect can be achieved by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see Haynes Hint).

23 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed screws in turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and

watch the next bleed screw in the system. Repeat the procedure until the coolant is emerging from the highest bleed screw in the

A

Cut the bottom off an old antifreeze container.to make a ‘header tank’ for use when refilling the cooling system. The seal at the point arrowed should be © as airtight as possible - use an O-ring if available, or seal the joint ey: some other means.

x x

WS

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the

ra bleeding of the hydraulic system as described cooling system and all bleed screws are in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid securely tightened. reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, 24 Ensure that the “header tank” is full (at using a clean poultry baster or similar before least 0.5 litres of coolant). Start the engine, starting, and allowance should be made for and run it at a fast idle speed (do not exceed the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a 2000 rpm) until the cooling fan cuts in, and section of the circuit. then cuts out. Stop the engine. Note: Take 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open great care not to scald yourself with the hot . the first bleed screw in the sequence, and coolant during this operation. pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the 25 Allow the engine to cool, then remove the master cylinder reservoir. “header tank”. 26 When the engine has cooled, check the coolant level as described in “Weekly checks”. Old hydraulic fluid is HAYNES Top-up the level if necessary, and refit the invariably much darker in expansion tank cap. colour than the new, making

Antifreeze mixture

it easy to distinguish the two.

27 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary 3 Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid, not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, and continue pumping until only the new fluid but also to prevent corrosion which would remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten become progressively less effective. the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the ~ 28 Always use an ethylene-glycol based “MAX” level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixedscrews in the sequence until new fluid can be metal cooling systems. The quantity of seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the antifreeze and levels of protection are - master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above indicated in the Specifications. the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter 29 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling the system and greatly increase the Jength of system should be completely drained, the task. preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for 5 When the operation is complete, check that condition and security. all bleed screws are securely tightened, and 30 After filling with antifreeze, a label should that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all be attached to the expansion tank, stating the traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master type and concentration of antifreeze used, cylinder reservoir fluid level. and the date installed. Any subsequent 6 Check the operation of the brakes before topping-up should be made with the same taking the car on the road. type and concentration of antifreeze.

oS eV ae Y C

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2Ae1

Chapter 2 Part A: :

a

TU petrol engine in-ca

i

d

:

Contents

Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting ..... 10 Camshaft:oil seal =renewal’ 0... 6. ce oS ee 8 Compression test- description and interpretation .............. 2 Crankshaft oil seals = renewal ..... 00... cece cee eee een ees 14 Cylinder head - removal and refitting ................0000000 Ls. Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting ................... 4 Engine assembly/valve timing holes - general information and USA Gmente Seem MeN thar eats MRS A rit Sart RAS ra pometeN SG 3

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal ........ Flywheel - removal, inspection'‘and refitting. +2. tos. seen | eee Generalanformationi: Ac caste taal a ee Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting ..................Sump:removal:and: refitting 2.5... tv «serene Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting .......... Timing belt covers - removal and refitting ..........c...eeeeeee Timing bélt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection

Engine oil and filter renewal

......0.........0000- See ChaptemtAr

Enginelonlevelicheck:.

sand refitting. 246.) sc. 2 ea sate Se

Sic. be cee be buen See “Weekly checks”

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment

%

13.2 Oil pump is retained by three bolts

e

} x

2 A

2Ae14

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal can be levered out of position using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal

housing (see illustration).

14.2 Using a screwdriver to lever out the crankshaft front oil seal 4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron block engines only), noting which way round they are fitted. 5 Examine the pump rotors and body for signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the complete pump assembly must be renewed. 6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The condition of the relief valve spring can only be measured by comparing it with a new one; if there is any doubt about its condition, it should also be renewed. Both the piston and spring are available individually. 7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of clogging or splitting. lf the strainer is damaged, the strainer and cover assembly must be renewed. 8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and (where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer cover, then refit the cover to the pump body. Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts, tightening them securely.

3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip must face inwards. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. 5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to.removal. The inner face of the seal must be flush with the inner wall of the crankcase. 6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 7.

Left-hand oil seal 7 Remove the flywheel (see Section 15). . 8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears only on the hard outer edge’of the seal, drive the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal. 12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the flywheel as described in Section 15.

_

10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.

414 Crankshaft oilseals -— saute

15 Flywheel removal, inspection and refitting

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and flanged spacer as described in Section 7.

-. Secure the timing belt clear of the working area, so that it cannot be contaminated with

oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with

eS Ry EN

Removal 1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly as described in Chapter 6. 2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement

WHE

Right-hand oil seal

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed. However, it may be possible to have it surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. 6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. The temperature to which the new ring gear must be heated for installation is critical and, if not done accurately, the hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.

Refitting 7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Remove any _ locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft

holes, using the correct-size tap, if available. HAYNES

If a suitable tap is not available, cut two slots into the threads of one of the old flywheel bolts and use the bolt to remove the ernie compound from the threads. 8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already precoated, apply a small amount of suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. 10 Lock the flywheel using the method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. 11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking tool, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

~

2

’ Refitting 9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in _ position, then engage the pump sprocket with its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel, and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening them to the specified torque setting.

Inspection

to that shown in illustration 7.10. Alternatively, bolt a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do not attempt to lock the flywheel in position using the locking pin described in Section 3.. 3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining bolts, and discard them; they must be renewed whenever they are disturbed. 4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with the flywheel for safe-keeping.

16 Engine/transmission mountings inspection and renewal

HK

Inspection 1 If improved access is required, raise the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support’). 2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrenchto

check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back and forth, or from side to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected even from new components,

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae15

SLA eee AS ae aa eae eae eee ieee emcee eee

excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are secure, then renew any worn components as described below.

Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Place a jack beneath

the engine, with a

block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine: 7 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the right-hand engine mounting upper bracket to the bracket on the cylinder

block. Remove the nut securing the bracket to + the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. 8 Lift the buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the rubber from the body. 9 Check for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew as necessary. \ 10 On reassembly, securely tighten the mounting rubber in the body. 11 Refit the buffer plate (where fitted) to the mounting rubber stud, then install the mounting bracket. 12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque wrench setting. -- 13 Remove the jack from under the engine, and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Left-hand mounting 14 Remove the battery and tray as described

transmission,

in Chapter 5A, 15 Place a jack beneath the transmission, ‘with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the transmission. 16 Slacken and remove the mounting rubber’s centre nut, and two retaining nuts and remove the mounting from the engine

Rear mounting 22 If not already done, chock the rear wheels

compartment. 17 If necessary, undo the two retaining bolts and remove the mounting bracket from the body. Disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (see Chapter 6) then unscrew the retaining nuts and remove the bracket from the top of the transmission. 18 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them where necessary. 19 Refit the bracket to the transmission, tightening its mounting nuts to the~specified torque. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as described in Chapter 6. Refit the mounting bracket to the vehicle body and tighten its bolts to the specified torque. 20 Fit the mounting rubber to the bracket and tighten its retaining nuts to the specified torque. Refit the mounting centre nut, and tighten it to the specified torque. 21 Remove the jack from underneath the

then

refit

the

battery

as

described in Chapter 5A.

then jack up the support it on axle Vehicle Support’). ~ 23 Unscrew and the rear mounting

front of the vehicle and stands (see “Jacking and remove the bolt securing link to the mounting on the

rear of the cylinder block. 24 Remove the bolt securing the rear mounting link to the bracket on the underbody. Withdraw the link. 25 To remove the mounting assembly it will first be necessary to remove the right-hand driveshaft as described in Chapter 8. 26 With the driveshaft removed, undo the retaining bolts and remove the mounting from

the rear of the cylinder block. 27 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them where necessary.

28 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refit the driveshaft as described in Chapter 8. ‘ 29 Refit the rear mounting link, and tighten both its bolts to their specified torque settings. 30 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

.

2Be1

Chapter 2 Part B:

a

Contents Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal ..........0 0.0... cece eweelecues 9 _ Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting ....... 10. Compression test -description and interpretation .............. 2>~* Crankshaft oil seals - renewal ............0.. 0ccece caeeeeeee 16 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.............-.0000eee 5 Cylinder head - removal and refitting .. Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting ..................- 4 Engine. assembly/valve timing holes - general information and RIS ACGME ci oncacimh cere ean eae erstamin S acclesih ca Me Gi etme eth othe ae 3 Engine oil ana filter renewal .................0005. See Chapter 1A Breime oijevel:check) so... tet oes Fn ee See “Weekly checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal ........ Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting ........... General information: a3. SateGheven oon ee ee Oil cooler - removal and refitting ........... 000... cece esac ees Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting ................... Sump '=remoeval-and refitting-= = 2st tee eet ge ee ee Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting .......... Timing belt covers - removal and refitting ...................-. Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and refittingss3 > Saka aseine MR Raat Sak a ee ee ee Valve clearances (8-valve models) - checking and adjustment .....

18 17 1 15 14 13 7 6 8 11

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for

4

N& | suitable for competent

| Fairly easy, suitable

novice with little

SS | for beginner with

experience

x

S

some experience

Fairly difficult,

DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

i

:

xS|

S

Very difficult,

NN

S

suitable for expert DIY A or professional

Specifications Engine (general) Designation:

;

*Bilitre (1761 cc) engine.

.... 2. ee

Matis

2

to Nol iver § XU7

2.0 litre (1998 cc) engine............... Erase teaser ee ete Se _-Engine codes”: WAG CCN O=VAINC)GNGINGs socteis: Zeca, ae. alSines leon atleyeyousceigye #0 8 eiSlain MLE CCS CLOAVAIVO) ONGOING stew rape! emioceis sicvqisvers. 6 weisireqay-e asl easyer a)

XU10

RFX (XU10J2C)

MOOS CGV

RFV (XU10J4R) or R6E (XU10J4R)

Bore: MILO URCCLONIGING iceskcts pce nete deters tate ehacsumpohe. VES arate Sertucsvada aes 83.00 mm SI RCC LENDGIING weeene mete tkstt cieache eee ellsoonsz,iriar ay0 eliceaee, Ste abe, ola le!aJeus 86.00 mm Stroke: MOISES CIENOMMG MG erin cnt cielsaeeet ic cn ensyete Saar eer a jehle alaetbliose al's-Irm wa ete 81.00 mm 86.00 mm rte a katate akin) syetuhastny ae c's\eloherta insis vib a ms eipae ROOE MC ONION | EIPECHOM OL CrankSheattirOtatiOn ies sn tbs mid’ oiaiy ne wea wis «pial ale siein isSq3o Clockwise (viewed from the right-hand side of vehicle) BED OEICV INAS IOCATON: feae qantdere tact Ma bd x a ,otwlb \iajere ie rllece waleg. ‘At the transmission end of block Compression ratio (typical): alelers shel +)movustste ssuaie aiees a0 © ete al RO IRES [OAVAIVE) CNGINO ryicistelejlatela

RunrAd ee CIB-VAIVE) 2 cote e 2 kw teers Ciald meds we Be

SAMS Vy hints

10.4:1

9.5:1 BOGS CE (S-VAIVE)ONGING sywie raletenal were sree! © cries cise she ain classi lip!ove ws OGG CON il O-VAIVG) CMON ere ctsiaiolalee telie Wtagetorelensiel o's wicha a.enim ayn ea roct 10.4:1 *The engine code is either stamped on a plate attached to the front left-hand end of the cylinder block on 1761 cc engines and stamped directly ‘ é _ onto the front face of the cylinder block (just to the left of the oil filter) on 1998 cc engines.

Camshaft

; ty

‘ ‘ me ’

t

d

an 4 D

e

q .

|

,

DEV Meee ete es Ge into one eee Goats Sle eon inane weE ae ee eC ACISimran Mes TaNe a cteechs tere clerawin aoeharslarope.tia.on0s6k mock 10,eld DICCHE SEEM sees eneee eee » Camshaft bearing journal diameter ............sae eas .. Cylinder head bearing journal diameter .......... sett

~ ‘ i _"

LFZ (XU7JP) or L6A (KU7JP/k) LFY (XU7JP4)

HOGER ce KG-valve) ENGNG Minds (le clecase sae ence nee eee ou wialde NO-=VAIVE)/OMOINMG: ‘

NN EN

11 Fit the new seal using a suitable tubular — drift, which bears only on the hard outer edge ~ of the seal. Drive the seal into position, to the — same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal.

4

12° Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 17.

17 Flywheel/driveplateremoval, inspection

andrefitting —

=» SS _ —

ow

Removal

1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly as described in Chapter 6.

~

Right-hand oil seal

oo

15.5 Oil cooler/oil filter mounting bolt (A) and locating notch (B)

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and (where fitted) spacer as described in Section 8. Secure the timing belt clear of the working area, so that it cannot be contaminated with oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. — 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a selt-tapping - screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal (see illustration). Alternatively, the seal can be levered out of position. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver, and

©

clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft.

Flywheel (manual transmission models)

16 Crankshaft oilseals:

Is

oe NAY ad) ime” co eee

pen i

y

:

€

:

)

16.2 Using a self-tapping screw and pliers to remove the crankshaft oil seal

Freodal

XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking _ the ring gear teeth with.a similar arrangement to that shown in illustration 5.2 (Section 5). Alternatively, bolt a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do not attempt to lock the flywheel in position using the crankshaft pulley locking pin described in Section 3.

3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining bolts, and remove the flywheel from the end of the crankshaft. Be careful not to drop it; it is heavy. If the flywheel locating dowel is aloose

fit in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it with the flywheel for safe-keeping. Discard the flywheel bolts; new ones must be used on refitting.

Driveplate (automatic transmission models) 4 Remove the transmission as described in

Chapter 7B. Lock the driveplate as described in paragraph 2. Mark the relationship between the torque converter plate and the driveplate,

and slacken all the drivepiate retaining bolts. 5 Remove the retaining bolts, along with the we

torque converter plate and the two shims (one } fitted on each side of the torque converter _ Plate). Note that the shims are of different thickness, the thicker one being on the _ outside of the torque converter plate. Discard the driveplate retaining bolts; new ones must be used on refitting. 6 Remove the driveplate from the end of the crankshaft. If the locating dowel is a loose fit _ in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it with the driveplate for safe-keeping.

_ Inspection _ __ _

7 On models with manual transmission, examine the flywheel for scoring of the clutch face, and for wear or chipping of the ring gear teeth. If the clutch face is scored, the flywheel may be surface-ground, but renewal is

preferable. Seek the advice of a Peugeot _ dealer or engine reconditioning specialist to ‘see if machining is possible. If the ring gear is worn-or damaged, the flywheel must be . renewed, as it is not possible to renew the ' ring gear separately. 8 On models with automatic transmission, check the torque converter driveplate

* carefully for signs of distortion. Look for any hairline cracks around the bolt holes or _ radiating outwards from the centre, and __ inspect the ring gear teeth for signs of wear or chipping. If any sign of wear or damage is found, the driveplate must be renewed.

Refitting

_ Flywheel

(manual transmission models) 9 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and

crankshaft.

Remove

any

remaining

_ locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct size of tap, _ if available.

>

HINT

2Be19

} if a suitable tap is not available, cut two siots along the threads of one of the old

flywheel bolts, and use the boltto remove the locking compound

_ from the threads. 10 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not suppliedwith their threads already precoated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt (see illustration). 11 Ensure that the locating dowel is in position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. 12 Lock the flywheel using the method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration). 13 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the flywheel locking tool, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

Driveplate ‘(automatic transmission models) 14 Carry out the operations described above in paragraphs 9 and 10, substituting “driveplate” for all references to the flywheel. 15 Locate the driveplate on its locating dowel. ; 16 Offer up the torque converter plate, with the thinner shim positioned behind the plate

and the thicker shim on the outside, and align the marks made prior to removal. 17 Fit the new retaining bolts, then lock the driveplate using the method employed on dismantling. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 Remove the driveplate locking tool, and refit the transmission (see Chapter 7B).

18 Engine/transmission mountings -

_ inspection and renewal

17.10 If the new flywheel bolt threads are not supplied with their threads pre-coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to them...

are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.

Renewal Right-hand mounting 1.8 litre (8-valve) models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from their retaining clips, and position them clear of the mounting so that they do not hinder the

removal procedure. 6 Place a jack beneath

the engine, with a

block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Slacken

and

remove

the

three

nuts

securing the right-hand mounting bracket to — the engine. Remove the single nut securing ~ the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.

8 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body and remove it from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting bracket can be unbolted and removed from the side of the cylinder head. 9 Check all components carefully for signs of wear or damage, and renew them where necessary. 10 On reassembly, screw the mounting rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it securely. Where removed, refit the mounting

HHE

Inspection 1 If improved access is required, raise the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident.

3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back and forth, or from side to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected even from new components, excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive

free play is found, check first that the fasteners

17.12

... then refit the flywheel, and

tighten the bolts to the specified torque

eee Se)

a

4 ‘

Lym

:

‘2Be20

Ke }

XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

bracket to the side of the cylinder head, apply a drop of locking compound to the retaining bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the mounting rubber stud, and install the mounting bracket. 12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting. 13 Remove the jack from underneath the engine, and reconnect the battery negative

terminal. Right-hand mounting 2.0 litre (8-valve) models 14 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from their retaining clips, and position them clear of the mounting so that they do not hinder the removal procedure. 15 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 16 Undo the two bolts securing the curved mounting retaining plate to the body. Lift off the plate, and withdraw the rubber damper from the top of the mounting bracket. 17 Slacken and remove the two nuts and two bolts securing . the right-hand engine/transmission mounting bracket to the engine. Remove the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the

bracket. 18 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body and remove it from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting _ bracket can be unbolted and removed from

the front of the cylinder block. 19 Check all components carefully for signs of wear or damage, and renew as necessary. 20 On reassembly, screw the mounting rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it securely. Where removed, refit the mounting bracket to the front of the cylinder head, and

securely tighten its retaining bolts.

21 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the mounting rubber stud, and install the mounting bracket. ~ 22 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting, and remove the jack from underneath the engine. 23 Refit the rubber damper to the top of the mounting bracket, and refit the curved retaining plate. Tighten the retaining plate bolts to the specified torque, and reconnect the battery.

Right-hand mounting 16-valve models 24 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from their retaining clips. Place the hoses/wiring clear of the mounting so that the removal procedure is not hindered. 25 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 26 Slacken and remove the two nuts and two bolts securing the right-hand engine/ transmission mounting bracket to the engine. Remove.the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber. 27 Undo the bolt securing the upper engine movement limiter to the right-hand mounting bracket, and the four bolts securing the movement limiter mounting bracket to the body. Lift away the right-hand mounting bracket and the movement limiter assembly. 28 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body and remove it from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting

bracket can be unbolted and removed from

‘

31 Refit the engine movement limiter assembly to the engine mounting bracket and to the body and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. ; 32 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the mounting

rubber

stud,

and

install

the |

mounting bracket. 33 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting. Remove

the jack from underneath reconnect the battery.

the engine and

Left-hand mounting 34 Remove the battery and battery tray, as described in Chapter 5A. 35 Place a jack beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the transmission. 36 Slacken and remove the centre nut and washer from the left-hand mounting, then undo the nuts securing the mounting in position and remove it from the engine compartment. 37 If necessary, slide the spacer (where fitted) off the mounting stud, then unscrew the ~ stud from the top of the transmission housing, and remove it along with its washer. If the mounting stud is tight, a universal stud extractor can be used to unscrew it. 38 Check all components carefully for signs of wear or damage, and renew as necessary. 39 Clean the threads of the mounting stud, and apply a coat of thread-locking compound to its threads. Refit the stud and washer to the

©

top of the transmission, and tighten it to the specified torque setting.

40 Slide the spacer (where fitted) onto the — mounting stud, then refit the rubber Tighten both the mounting-to-body the mounting centre nut to their torque settings, and remove the

mounting.

bolts and specified jack from —

the front of the cylinder block. 29 Check all components carefully for signs . underneath the transmission. of wear or damage, and renew as necessary. 41 Refit the battery support plate, tightening 30 On reassembly, screw the mounting its retaining bolts securely, then refit the — rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it battery as described in Chapter 5A. securely. Refit the mounting bracket to the Rear mounting front of the cylinder head, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 42 Refer to Part A of this Chapter, Section 16.

‘Chapter 2 Part C: Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Contents Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting- kete ae eae aie eee 1 Main and big-end bearings - inspection ...................0-5 15 Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection .................. 13 __Piston/connecting rod assembly - refitting and big-end bearing Funning:clearance: checks... ce crete eeeitcan a ame eee 19

RETIECIMIC Serates sceetele ae cycte vole aehspie aa Vatabso edcape anne Macomb eatin

5

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal ..............-.++05 10

Engine and manual transmission - removal, separation and refitting.

4

Piston rings - refitting

............. cc cele ee cece ct eueeewuee 17

Degrees of difficulty ©

y, Suita

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

ay,

suitable

X | Fairly easy, suitable SS | for beginner with x some experience

&

Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for BS | suitable for competent A | experienced DIY DIY mechanic mechanic

x

S

N

S |

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications Note: At the time of writing, many specifications for certain engines were not available. Where the relevant specifications are not given here, refer ~ to your Peugeot dealer for further information.

Cylinder head

g

;

Maximum gasket face’distortion 0 be. tle ke ieee Melee pv ene Cylinder head height: MEIGS mentee ne cuba stir Aik a lense tuaceicivas,e Diaiea sexe ew b yalepele eye XU and XUD engines ...... Seay Reistan ohare siMLAS TG hots Betta hia are Swirl chamber protrusion - Diesel engines only .... 20... 6... eee eee

0.07 mm 111.2 + 0.08 mm 157.4 to 157.7 mm 0 to 0.03 mm

Valves Valve head diameter: Petrol engines: ADE AEC ANG WOOO CC {ONGINOS a .ci< vccke A “yy

oR ae

ee sy Cot “a

aa re

ee) ty Oe

the visible

bolt then,

using

a socket

and

extension bar to rotate the crankshaft pulley, undo the remaining bolts securing the torque converter to the driveplate as they become accessible. There are three bolts in total. 13 To ensure that the torque converter does not fall out as the transmission is removed, secure it in position using a length of metal strip bolted to one of the starter motor bolt holes. 14 Withdraw the rubber retaining pin, disconnect the speedometer cable from the drive, and free it from any retaining clips.

15 Remove the driveshafts as described in Chapter 8. 16 Place a jack with a block of wood beneath the engine, to take the weight of the engine. Alternatively, attach a couple of lifting eyes to the engine, and fit a hoist.or support bar to take the weight of the engine. 17 Place a jack and block of wood beneath the transmission, and raise the jack to take the weight of the transmission. 18 Slacken and remove the centre nut and washer from the left-hand engine/transmission mounting. Undo the two nuts and washers securing the mounting rubber in position and remove it from the engine compartment. 19 Slide the spacer (where fitted) off the mounting stud, then unscrew the stud from the top of the transmission housing and remove it-along. with its washer. If the mounting stud is tight, a universal stud extractor can be used to unscrew it. 20 With the jack positioned beneath the transmission taking the weight, slacken and remove the remaining bolts securing the transmission housing to the engine. Note the correct fitted positions of each bolt as it is removed, to use as a reference on refitting. Make a final check that all necessary components have been disconnected, and positioned clear of the transmission so that they will not hinder the removal procedure. 21 With the bolts removed, move the trolley jack and transmission to the left, to free it from its locating dowels. 22 Once the transmission is free, lower the

jack and manoeuvre the unit out from under the car. If they are loose, remove the locating dowels from the transmission or engine, and keep them in a safe place.

Refitting 23 The transmission is refitted by a reversal of the removal procedure, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the bush fitted to the centre of the crankshaft is in good condition, and apply a little Molykote G1 grease to the

torque converter centring pin. Do not apply too much, otherwise there is a possibility of the grease contaminating the torque converter.

b) Ensure that the engine/transmission locating dowels are correctly positioned prior to installation. c) Once the transmission and engine are correctly joined, refit the securing bolts, tightening them to the specified torque setting, then remove the metal strip used to retain the torque converter. d) Apply thread-locking fluid to the left-hand engine/transmission mounting stud threads prior to refitting it to the transmission. Tighten the stud to the specified torque. e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque (where given). | f) Renew the driveshaft oil seals and refit

the driveshafts to the transmission, using the information given in Chapter 7A. g) Adjust the selector cable and kickdown

cable as described in Sections 2 and 5 of this Chapter. ; h) On completion, top-up the cooling system (see “Weekly Checks”), then refill the transmission with the specified type and quantity of fluid as described in Chapter 1A or 7B. ;

12 Automatic transmission overhaul _ general information

ee

@

In the event of a fault occurring with the transmission, it is first necessary to determine whether it is of an electrical, mechanical or hydraulic nature, and to do this, special test equipment is required. It is therefore essential to have the work carried out by a Peugeot dealer if a transmission fault is suspected. Do not remove the transmission from the car for possible repair before professional fault diagnosis has been carried out, since most tests require the transmission to be in ' the vehicle.

8e1

Chapter 8 Driveshafts Contents Driveshaft overhaul - general information Driveshaft rubber gaiter and constant velocity (CV) joint check

4 _ Driveshafts -.removal and refitting General information

Driveshaft rubber gaiters - renewal

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, Ss ee

NS

suitable

inner with

.

some experience

s NxS s

Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic

* XS ~

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult, S suitable for: expert DIY ay ~ | or professional

Specifications Lubrication (overhaul only - see text) Lubricant type/specification

Cee

Bee

wb

SOM

wile, 60. 8 ogee

Meee)

© ol

Use only special grease supplied in sachets with gaiter kits - joints are otherwise pre-packed with grease and sealed

eee

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft

Driveshaft retaining nut:

M20x150 nut Sk Wowie Sak se) 0.6 [etme © W aie OPS) dis © ae) oe = alle fh ape eg oe @ Sore inv9c)ELOY LtCascoteyel Qk Saar IPL et ce pe ne ae Lower suspension arm balioint retaining nuts Right-hand driveshaft intermediate bearing retaining bolt nuts Roadwheel bolts

Shene dele

ae

coke) athe" el eheia's

6 o 4) 6 6 © m8) pein im idle, acm shiidle, @ 6m

1. General information he

re

Drive is transmitted from the differential to the front wheels by means of two solid-steel driveshafts of unequal length. Both driveshafts are splined at their outer

ends, to accept the wheel hubs, and.are

0. 0

threaded so that each hub can be fastened by a large nut. The inner end of each driveshaft is splined, to accept the differential sun gear. Constant velocity (CV) joints are fitted to each end of the driveshafts, to ensure that the smooth and efficient transmission of power at all suspension and steering angles. On 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models, the outer constant velocity joints are of the spider-and-yoke type; on all other models, they are of the ball-and. cage type. The inner constant velocity joints P=

are of the tripod type on all models. On the right-hand side, due to the length of the driveshaft, the inner constant velocity joint is situated approximately halfway along the shaft’s length, and an intermediate support

bearing is mounted in the engine/transmission rear mounting bracket. The inner end of the driveshaft passes through the bearing (which prevents any lateral movement of the driveshaft inner end) and the inner constant velocity joint outer member.

8e2

Driveshafts

2.4 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models, relieve the retaining nut staking with a suitable chisel-nosed tool

2_ Driveshafts removal and refitting

HEE

Removal Note: Do not allow the vehicle to rest on its wheels with one or both driveshafts removed, as damage to the wheel bearing(s) may result. If moving the vehicle is unavoidable, temporarily insert the outer end of the driveshaft(s) in the hub(s) and tighten the hub

nut(s): in this case, the inner end(s) of the driveshaft(s) must be supported, for example by suspending with string from the vehicle underbody. Do not allow the driveshaft to hang down under its own weight. On models with a staked driveshaft nut, a new nut must _ be used on refitting. New lower arm balljoint nuts must be used on refitting. 1 Chock the rear wheels

of the car, firmly

apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2 Drain the transmission oil or fluid as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 1 or 7 as applicable. 3 On models equipped with ABS, trace the wiring connector back from the wheel sensor,

2.10a On the right-hand driveshaft, slacken the two intermediate bearing retaining bolt nuts...

freeing it from its retaining clips, and disconnect it at its wiring connector. 4 On models where the driveshaft nut is staked, using a hammer and a chisel or similar tool, tap up the staking securing the driveshaft retaining nut in position (see illustration).

Note that a new retaining nut must be used on _refitting. 5 On

models

where

the driveshaft

nut is

secured by an R-clip, withdraw the R-clip and remove the locking cap from the driveshaft retaining nut. 6 Refit at least two roadwheel bolts to the front hub, and tighten them securely. Have an assistant firmly depress the brake pedal to. prevent the front hub from rotating, then using a socket and a long extension bar, slacken and remove the driveshaft retaining nut. Alternatively, a tool can be fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one long, one short) and a nut and bolt; the nut and bolt forming the pivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to the

hub using two wheel bolts, and hold the tool to prevent the hub from rotating as the driveshaft retaining nut is undone (see Tool Tip). This nut is very tight; make sure that there is no risk of pulling the car off the axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). (If

the roadwheel

trim allows access

to the

driveshaft nut, the initial slackening can be done with the wheels chocked and on the ground.) 7 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the balljoint to the lower suspension arm, then withdraw the bolts and free the balljoint from the arm. Discard the nuts - new ones must be used on refitting.

Left-hand driveshaft

Using a fabricated tool to hold the front hub stationary whilst the driveshaft

bogen

nut is slackened

Bs

8 Carefully pull the swivel hub assembly outwards, and withdraw the driveshaft outer constant velocity joint from the hub assembly. If necessary, the shaft can be tapped out of the hub using a soft-faced mallet. 9 Support the driveshaft, then withdraw the inner constant velocity joint from the transmission, taking care not to damage the driveshaft oil seal. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.

2.10b. . then turn thebolts through 90° to disengage their offset heads (arrowed) from the bearing (driveshaft removed for clarity)

Right-hand driveshaft 10 Loosen the two intermediate bearing retaining bolt nuts, then rotate the bolts through 90°, so that their offset heads are

clear

of

the

bearing

outer

race

(see

illustrations). 11 Carefully pull the swivel hub assembly outwards, and withdraw the driveshaft outer

constant velocity joint from the hub assembly. If necessary, the shaft can be tapped out of the hub using a soft-faced mallet. 12 Support the outer end of the driveshaft, then pull on the inner end of the shaft to free the intermediate bearing from its mounting bracket. 13 Once the driveshaft end is free from the transmission, slide the dust seal off the inner end of the shaft, noting which way around it is fitted, and remove the driveshaft.

Refitting 14 Before installing the driveshaft, examine the driveshaft oil seal in the transmission for signs of damage or deterioration and, if necessary, renew it, referring to Chapter 7A for further information. (Having got this far it is worth renewing the seal as a matter of course.) 15 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft splines, and the apertures in the transmission and hub assembly. Apply a thin film of grease to the oil seal lips, and to the driveshaft splines and shoulders. Check that all gaiter clips are

securely fastened. Left-hand driveshaft 16 Offer up the driveshaft, and locate the joint splines with those of the differential sun gear, taking great care not to damage the oil seal. Push the joint fully into position. 17 Locate the outer constant velocity joint splines with those of the swivel hub, and slide the joint back into position in the hub. 18 Align the balljoint with the.lower arm, and fit the three retaining bolts. Fit new retaining “nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 19 Lubricate the inner face and threads of the driveshaft retaining nut with clean engine oil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Use the

Driveshafts

2.20 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models, tighten the nut and stake it firmly into the driveshaft groove

2.21a

On all except 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models, refit the locking cap...

method employed on removal to prevent the the dust seal for signs of damage or hub from rotating, and tighten the driveshaft © deterioration, and renew if necessary. retaining nut to the specified torque. Check 26 Apply a smear of grease to the outer race that the hub rotates freely. of the intermediate bearing, and to the inner lip of the dust seal. 20 On models where the driveshaft nut is 27 Pass the inner end of the shaft through staked, stake the new nut into the driveshaft the bearing mounting bracket, then carefully grooves using a hammer and punch (see slide the dust seal into position on the illustration). driveshaft, ensuring that its flat surface is 21 On models where the driveshaft nut is facing the transmission (see illustration). secured by an R-clip, engage the locking cap 28 Carefully locate the inner driveshaft with the driveshaft nut so that one of its cutsplines with those of the differential sun gear, outs is aligned with the driveshaft hole. taking care not to damage the oil seal. Align Secure the cap in position with the R-clip (see the intermediate bearing with its mounting illustrations). bracket, and push the driveshaft fully into 22 Where necessary, reconnect the ABS position. If necessary, use a soft-faced mallet wheel sensor wiring connector, ensuring that to tap the outer race of the bearing into the wiring is correctly routed and retained by position in the mounting bracket. all the necessary clips and ties. 29 Locate the outer constant velocity joint 23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the splines with those of the swivel hub, and slide ‘vehicle to the ground and tighten the the joint back into position in the hub (see roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. illustration). 24 Refill the transmission with the specified 30 Ensure that the intermediate bearing is type and amount of fluid/oil, and check the correctly seated, then rotate its retaining bolts level using the information given in Chapter 1A back through 90°, so that their offset heads or 1B. are resting against the bearing outer race. Right-hand driveshaft Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified 25 Check that the intermediate bearing torque. Ensure that the dust seal is tight against the driveshaft oil seal (see rotates smoothly, without any sign of roughness or undue free play between its illustration). 31 Carry out the operations described above inner and outer races. If necessary, renew the in paragraphs 19 to 24. bearing as described in Section 5. Examine

2.27 Locate the dust seal on the inner end of the right-hand driveshaft, ensuring it is fitted the correct way round 2g -

2:29 Pull out the swivel hub assembly, and locate the outer constant velocity joint

splines with those of the swivel hub

8¢3

2.21b ...and secure it in position with the R-clip

3 Driveshaft rubber gaitersrenewal

SS ®’

x

Outer joint 4 Remove the driveshaft described in Section 2.

from

the car

as

1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models 2 Remove the inner constant velocity joint and gaiter as described below in paragraphs 24 to 29. It is recommended that the inner gaiter is also renewed, regardless of its apparent condition. 3 Release the two outer gaiter retaining clips, then slide the gaiter off the inner end of the driveshaft. 4 Thoroughly clean the outer. constant velocity joint using paraffin, or a suitable solvent, and dry it thoroughly. Carry out a visual inspection of the joint. 5 Check the driveshaft spider and outer member yoke for signs of wear, pitting or scuffing on their bearing surfaces. Also check that the outer member pivots smoothly and easily, with no traces of roughness. 6 If on inspection, the spider or outer member reveals signs of wear or damage, it will be necessary to renew the complete driveshaft as an assembly, since no components are

2.30 Secure the intermediate bearing in position, then slide the dust seal up tight against the driveshaft oil seal

8e4

Driveshafts

vA

~

mits ¥ AN

q

3.21a

3.21d

Fit the hard plastic rings to the outer CV joint gaiter...

3.21b ... then slide on the new plastic bush (arrowed) and seat it in its recess in the shaft. Slide the gaiter onto the shaft...

3.21c

Fit the new circlip to its groove in the driveshaft splines . .

3.21e ... then locate the joint outer member on the splines and slide into position over the circlip. Ensure that the joint is firmly retained by the circlip before proceeding

3.21f Pack the joint with the grease supplied, working it well into the ball tracks while twisting the joint, then locate the gaiter outer lip in its groove on the outer member

3.21g Fit the outer gaiter retaining clip and, using a hook fabricated out of

welding rod and a pair of pliers, pull the

y

3.21h

SE. Bend the clip end back over the

as

...and seat the gaiter inner end on top of the plastic bush

Py f 3.211 Fold the clip end underneath the

buckle, then cut off the excess clip

buckle...

clip tightly to remove all slack

3.21j ... then fold the buckle firmly down

3.21k Carefully lift the gaiter inner end to equalise air pressure in the gaiter, then

onto the clip to secure the clip in position

secure the inner gaiter retaining clip in position using the same method

Driveshafts SES

EE

ee REE

UID

SED METS

BSS

available separately. If the joint components

are in satisfactory condition, obtain a repair kit from your Peugeot dealer, consisting of a new gaiter, retaining clips, and the correct type and quantity of grease. 7 Tape over the splines on the inner end of - the driveshaft, then carefully slide the outer

gaiter onto the shaft. y 8 Pack the joint with the gréase supplied in the repair kit. Work the grease well into the bearing tracks whilst twisting the joint, and fill

the rubber gaiter with any excess. 9 Ease the gaiter over the joint, and ensure that the gaiter lips are correctly located in the grooves on both the driveshaft and constant velocity joint. Lift the outer sealing lip of the gaiter, to equalise the air pressure in the gaiter. 10 Fit the large metal retaining clip to the gaiter. Remove any slack in the gaiter retaining clip by carefully compressing the: raised section of the clip. In the absénce of the special tool, a pair of side cutters may be used. Secure the small retaining clip using the same procedure. Check that the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions before proceeding further. 11 Refit the inner constant velocity joint as described in paragraphs 32 to 39.

models 12 Secure the driveshaft in a vice equipped with soft jaws, and release the two rubber gaiter retaining clips. If necessary, the gaiter retaining clips can be cut to release them. 13 Slide the rubber gaiter down the shaft, to the

outer

constant

velocity

cr

inspection,

any of the constant

velocity joint components are found to be worn or’ damaged, it will be necessary to renew the complete joint assembly (where available), or even the complete driveshaft (where no joint components are available separately). Refer to your Peugeot dealer for further information on parts availability. If the joint is in satisfactory condition, obtain a repair kit consisting of a new gaiter, circlip, retaining clips, and the correct type and quantity of grease.

21 To install the new gaiter, refer to the accompanying illustrations, and perform the operations shown (see illustrations 3.21a to 3.21k). Be sure to stay in order, and follow the captions carefully. Note that the hard plastic rings are not fitted to all gaiters, and the gaiter retaining clips supplied with the repair kit may be different to those shown in the sequence. To secure this other type of clip in position, lock the ends of the clip together, then remove any slack in the clip by carefully compressing the raised section of the clip using a pair of side cutters. 22 Check that the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions, then refit the driveshaft to the car as described in Section 2.

Inner joint

All except 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine

expose

me cecuanie pec

20 lf on

joint.

. Scoop out the excess grease. 14 Using a hammer and suitable soft metal drift, sharply strike the inner member of the outer joint to drive it off the end of the shaft. The joint is retained on the driveshaft by a circlip, and striking the joint in this manner forces the circlip into its groove, so allowing the joint to slide off. 15 Once the joint assembly has been removed, remove the circlip from the groove in the driveshaft splines, and discard it. A new circlip must be fitted on reassembly. 16 Withdraw the rubber gaiter from the driveshaft, and slide off the gaiter inner end plastic bush. 17 With the constant velocity joint removed from the driveshaft, thoroughly clean the joint using paraffin, or a suitable solvent, and dry it thoroughly. Carry out a visual inspection of the joint. 18 Move the inner splined driving member from side to side, to expose each ball in turn

at the top of its track. Examine the balls for cracks, flat spots, or signs of surface pitting. 19 Inspect the ball tracks on the inner and - outer members. If the tracks have widened, the balls will no longer be a tight fit. At the same time, check the ball cage windows for wear or cracking between the windows.

23 Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle as described in Section 2.

1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models 24 Secure the driveshaft in a vice equipped with soft jaws then, using a suitable pair of pliers, carefully peel back the lip of the constant velocity joint outer member cover. 25 Once the lip of the cover is fully released, pull the joint outer member out from the cover, and recover the spring and thrust cap from the end of the shaft. Remove the O-ring from the outside of the outer member, and discard it. e 26 Fold the gaiter back, and wipe away the excess grease from the tripod joint. If the rollers are not secured to the joint with

circlips, wrap. adhesive tape around the joint to hold them in position. 27 Using a dab of paint, or a hammer and punch, mark the relative position of the tripod joint in relation to the driveshaft. Using circlip pliers, extract the circlip securing the joint to the driveshaft. 28 The tripod joint can now be removed. If it is tight, draw the joint off the driveshaft end, using a two or three-legged bearing puller. Ensure that the legs of the puller are located behind the joint inner member, and do not contact the joint rollers. Alternatively, support the inner member of the tripod joint, and press the shaft out of the joint using a hydraulic press, ensuring that no load is applied to the joint rollers. 29 With the tripod joint removed, slide the gaiter and inner retaining collar off the end of

the driveshaft.

a

ee

ee

8¢e5 ea

30 Thoroughly clean all the constant velocity joint components using paraffin, or a suitable solvent, and dry them thoroughly - take great care not to remove the alignment marks made on dismantling, especially if paint was used. Carry out a visual inspection of the joint. 31 Examine the tripod joint, rollers and outer member for any signs of scoring or wear, and for smoothness of movement of the rollers on the tripod stems. If any component is worn, the complete driveshaft assembly must be

renewed; no joint components are available separately. If the joint components are in good condition, obtain a repair kit from your Peugeot dealer, consisting of a new rubber gaiter and outer cover, circlip, thrust cap, spring, O-ring, and the correct quantity of the special grease. 32 Slide the gaiter into position inside the metal outer cover, then tape over the splines on the end of the driveshaft, and carefully slide the inner retaining collar and gaiter/cover assembly onto the shaft. 33 Remove the tape then, aligning the marks made on dismantling, engage the tripod joint with the driveshaft splines. Use a hammer and soft metal drift to tap the joint onto the shaft, taking great care not to damage the driveshaft splines or joint rollers. 34 Secure the tripod joint in position with the new circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in the driveshaft groove. 35 Remove the tape (where fitted), and

evenly distribute the special grease contained in the repair kit around the tripod joint and outer member. Pack the gaiter/cover with the

remainder,

then draw

the cover

over the

tripod joint. 36 Fit the new O-ring, spring and thrust to the joint outer member. 37 Position the outer member assembly the tripod joint, and locate the thrust against the end of the driveshaft. Push

cap

over cap the outer member onto the shaft, compressing the spring, and locate it inside the outer cover. Secure the outer member in position by peening the end of the cover evenly over the joint outer edge. 38 Briefly lift the inner gaiter lip, using a blunt instrument such as a knitting needle, to equalise the air pressure within the gaiter. Secure the inner clip in position. 39 Check that the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions, then refit the driveshaft to the car as described in Section 2.

All except 1.4 and 1.6 litre engine models 40 Remove the outer constant velocity joint as described above in paragraphs 1 to 5. 41 Tape over the splines on the driveshaft,

and carefully remove the outer constant velocity joint rubber gaiter, and the gaiter inner end plastic bush. It is recommended that the outer joint gaiter is also renewed, regardless of its apparent condition.

8e6

Driveshafts

om

.-i

.p

er i

5

3.42a Release the inner gaiter retaining clips, and remove the joint outer member

3.42b Slide the gaiter off the end of the

42 Release the retaining clips, then slide the gaiter off the shaft, and remove its plastic bush. As the gaiter is released, the joint outer member will also be freed from the end of the shaft (see illustrations). 43 Thoroughly clean the joint using paraffin, or a suitable solvent, and dry it thoroughly. Check the tripod joint bearings and joint outer member for signs of wear, pitting or scuffing on their bearing surfaces. Check that the bearing rollers rotate smoothly and easily around the tripod joint, with no traces of roughness. 44 |f on inspection, the tripod joint or outer member reveal signs of wear or damage, it will be necessary to renew the complete

and inner joint gaiter along the driveshaft. Locate the plastic bush in its recess on the shaft, and seat the inner end of the gaiter on top of the bush. 47 Fit the outer member over the end of the shaft, and locate the gaiter in the groove on the joint outer member, Push the outer member onto the joint, so that its springloaded plunger is compressed, then lift the outer edge of the gaiter to equalise air pressure in the gaiter. Fit both the inner and outer retaining clips, securing them in position using the information given in paragraph 21. Ensure that the gaiter retaining clips are securely tightened, then check that the joint

driveshaft assembly, since the joint is not available separately. If the joint is in satisfactory condition, obtain a repair kit consisting of a new gaiter, retaining clips, and the correct type and quantity of grease. Although not strictly necessary, it is also recommended that the outer constant velocity joint gaiter is renewed, regardless of its

moves freely in all directions. 48 Refit the outer constant velocity joint components using the information given in paragraph 21.

4 -Driveshaft overhaul_ general information

apparent condition.

45 On reassembly, pack the inner joint with - the grease supplied in the gaiter kit. Work the grease well into the bearing tracks and rollers, while twisting the joint. 46 Clean the shaft, using emery cloth to remove any rust or sharp edges which may damage the gaiter, then slide the plastic bush

1 If any of the checks described in Chapter 1A or 1B reveal wear in any driveshaft joint, first remove the roadwheel trim or centre cap (as appropriate). 2 On models with a staked driveshaft nut, if the staking is still effective, the driveshaft nut should be correctly tightened; if in doubt, relieve the staking, then tighten the nut to the

specified torque and restake it into the

5.3 Using a long-reach bearing puller to remove the intermediate bearing from the right-hand driveshaft

3.42c

...and remove the plastic bush

driveshaft...

driveshaft grooves. Refit the roadwheel trim or centre cap (as applicable), and repeat the check on the remaining driveshaft nut. 3 On models where the driveshaft nut is secured by an R-clip, if the R-clip is fitted, the driveshaft nut should be correctly tightened; if in doubt, remove the R-clip and locking cap, and use a torque wrench to check that the nut is securely fastened. Once tightened, refit the locking cap and R-clip, then refit the centre cap or trim. Repeat this check on the remaining driveshaft nut. 4 Road test the vehicle, and listen for a metallic clicking from the front as’ the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle on full-lock. If a

clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in the outer constant velocity joint. This means that the joint must be renewed; reconditioning is not possible. 5 If vibration, consistent with road speed, is

felt through the car when accelerating, there is a possibility of wear in the inner constant velocity joints. 6 To check the joints for wear, remove the driveshafts, then dismantle them as described in Section 3; if any wear or free play is found, the affected joint must be renewed. In the case of the inner joints (and on some models, the outer joints), this means that the complete driveshaft assembly must be renewed, as the joints are not available separately. Refer to

your Peugeot dealer for information on the availability of driveshaft components.

5 Right-hand driveshaft intermediate bearing renewal

SS ~ xs

Note: A suitable bearing puller will be required, to draw the bearing and collar off the driveshaft end.

1 Remove the right-hand driveshaft described in Séction 2 of this Chapter.

as

2 Check that the bearing outer race rotates smoothly and easily, without any signs of roughness or undue free play between the inner and outer races. If necessary, renew the bearing as follows. 3 Using a long-reach universal bearing puller, carefully draw the collar and intermediate bearing off the driveshaft inner end (see illustration). Apply a smear of grease to the inner race of the new bearing, then fit the. bearing over the end of the driveshaft. Using a hammer and suitable piece of tubing which bears only on the bearing inner race, tap the new bearing into position on the driveshaft, until it abuts the constant velocity joint outer member. Once the bearing is correctly positioned, tap the bearing collar onto the shaft until it contacts the bearing inner race. 4 Check that the bearing rotates freely, then

refit the driveshaft as described in Section 2.

Chapter9

|

|

Braking system Contents Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - general information . Reat. brake pads --renewak+.n2.-c.c sto cake eee en oe nee 5

ancbrake Sacstmentiisacst srs ala ness iae ae culea cath ee bee one 1t7-~ Handbrake cables - removal and refitting ...............-...0. 19 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting ...... hasedinet enea eee eee 18 Hydraulic fluid level check ...............00- See “Weekly checks” ydraulicfluid’ renewal” 2so05 202... re. ae ee See Chapter 1A or1B Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal .............0.0eueeeeee 3 ydrauilic: svstem—DIeSdiNG ince wasiave ec aoe fs eoGlice kb mae a .. 2

Rear brake pressure-regulating valves (rear disc brakes models) removalrand:refitting: 9... 3.2. ae coe eee ee 20 Rear brake shoe wear check ................ See Chapter 1A or 1B

Rear-brake’shoes “renewalevrn. sans s eee a eee 6 Rear wheel cylinder - removal and refitting .................... 12 Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment ............ 21 Vacuum-pump (Diesel engine models) - removal and refitting ..... 24 Vacuum pump (Diesel engine models) - testing and overhaul ..... 25 Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting .............. 15 Vacuum servo unit check valve - removal, testing and refitting ....16

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little / experience

X | Fairly easy, suitable SS | for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult, , EN & | suitable for competent

EN

Difficult, suitable for i

i

DIY mechanic

Specifications Front brakes" MVPee

eter Wah sete eeecer seca Cats Dictae ais: oid ae wiley) bysie die wiles a ane

Disc, with single-piston sliding caliper

Disc diameter:

apie?

Onlithe eNGINe MOCEISS. + rs avs. Se eee ee hoe he a ehgins be eye alee Be FAIMOUICr MOCCISteR ne orteMeiinichIoats hott we b nee agratie ew. @oe Foe Disc thickness:

New:

‘

SONGICISCA Vem

ER

Sch

Mert ea

SCICSC rake vena

aC

266.0 mm 247.0 mm

; area

Pa

a ahs

cle ee thie Bi alntee Se ae ina

oer ohn

Goer

en ae

10.0 mm 20.4 mm

Minimum thickness: SOUCKCISC Hee err nie a Reet ea cece sees ce Oe te eee WETHNALCCHCISC -teuiente acs iT COe.. Sats ows ata sesuction Sols MOXIE CISG TUR-GUE LS, nae oc v ew ein abe eae ak een cures eect es Brake pad iminimumithickness saises. as. ota de cl oS. sete

8.0mm 18.4 mm 0.07 mm

2.0 mm

Rear drum brakes Drum internal diameter:

;

All except models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van models: Ni

ree

II

agWR acerate eects rye dynausea. Vea:impie

Nichbb ne58Aalle) wpeaes. ie

180.0 mm

.....-......-.0 eens eee

181.0 mm

Models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van models: ONG ie nee MARE Ree Na Rat hein iva Se slahakisy cai SielSided agetie.tyiea

228.6 mm

Maximum diameter after machining

Maximum diameter after machining Be’ Meats. sidatauee Nits aac tnscabArye Brake shoe thickness: Hee eee a demas sf UitoasVitus aden cee ate INGWitte btn cis otete cGleusasy 3 ety POAT HEMI LAGIRMEA PRSPRCTac DSetter ance, Geto ich, ciaene: sic.Sky Masten aneis basta,areca SID *

230.0 mm 4.85 mm 1.5mm

ie

Rear disc brakes chao Wiielaites held Giectiece due ale TDI SCC TTTCater TA IeEsinea er citi ree Cnc Disc thickness: NRT Tate aeERS, Creer tones eitattee eeterhit eywyas Whe eyap vo,G lenetlastelieve PUESOMe Rectan ahie tastei raha cul: &,emcteuy cebbagsiu id wilots «takers DANAUS Gereeled a oi. vier cn areere ee ahd ao olebalan Maximise rum-Outiey.

Brake pad minimum thickness ..........-+.-.- Cec

RIEI EN oe rece

247.0 mm 8.0 mm 6.0 mm 0.07 mm

2.0 mm

SN |

eN

Very difficult, Suitable for expert DIY or professional

9e2

Braking system

Torque wrench settings Front brake caliper: Guide pin bolts (Girling caliper)* Guide bolts (ATE Teves caliper)*.......... Caliper mounting bolts (Bendix caliper)*..... Mounting bracket-to-swivel hub bolts Rear brake caliper mounting bolts Rear hub nut: Models with rear drum brakes: All except models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van models Models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van models

Models with rear disc brakes Master cylinder-to-servo unit nuts Brake pedal pivot shaft nut............. eatentttr care ne Vacuum servo unit mounting nuts ABS wheel sensor retaining bolts* ABS hydraulic modulator bolts .............. Roagwiheal: bOnSy..0 2carci nau tune areas ncn ax *Use thread-locking compound.

1. General information -

The braking system is of the servoassisted, dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of the hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front and one rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate in unison. However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking force will still be available at two wheels. Some large-capacity engine models have disc brakes all round as standard; all other models not equipped with the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. ABS is fitted as

standard to certain models, and is offered as an option on most other models (refer to Section 22 for further information on ABS operation). The front disc brakes are actuated by ' single-piston sliding type calipers, which ensure that equal pressure is applied to each disc pad.

On models with rear drum brakes, the rear brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinders incorporate integral pressure-regulating valves, which control the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear brakes. The regulating valves help to prevent rear wheel lock-up during emergency braking. A -° self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate forbrake shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrake operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the lining-to-drum clearance.

mee

On models with rear disc brakes, the brakes are actuated by single-piston sliding calipers which incorporate mechanical handbrake mechanisms. On early models, a pressure-regulating valve is situated in the brake line to each rear caliper. The regulating valve is similar to that fitted to the rear wheel cylinders on drum brake models, and helps to prevent rear wheel lock-up during emergency braking. On later models, a load-sensitive pressure regulating valve assembly is fitted into the hydraulic circuit to each rear brake. The valve is mounted on the underside of the vehicle at the rear and is attached to the rear suspension by means of an operating rod and spring. The valve measures the load on the rear of the vehicle via the movement of the rear suspension and regulates the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear brakes accordingly. On all models, the handbrake provides an independent mechanical means of rear brake application,

On Diesel engines, there is insufficient vacuum in the inlet manifold to operate the braking system servo effectively at all times. To overcome this problem, a vacuum pump is fitted to the engine, to provide sufficient vacuum to operate the servo unit. The vacuum pump is mounted on the end of the

cylinder head, and driven directly off the end of the camshaft. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic system. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if in doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Peugeot replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in “Safety first” and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning the dangers of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

2

Hydraulic system -

bleeding

Warning:

Hydraulic

:

. st. fluid

is

VIN poisonous; wash off immediately

and thoroughly in the case of skin contact,

and

seek

immediate

medical

advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components;

when servicing any hydraulic system, it is safest to assume that the fluid is inflammable, and to take precautions against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; if any is spilt, it should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid may be contaminated and unfit for further use. When topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type,

and ensure that it comes from a freshlyopened sealed container.

General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; this is achieved by bleeding the system. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any. possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake

components

and

circuit must

be flushed

Braking system

9e3

completely with uncontaminated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted to the various components. 4 \f hydraulic fluid has-been lost from the system, or air has entered because of a leak,

ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. : 5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear, then chock the wheels and release the

handbrake. 6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top the master cylinder reservoir up to the “MAX” level line; refit the cap loosely, and remember to maintain the fluid level at least above the “MIN” level line throughout the procedure, or there is a risk of further. air entering the system.

8 There are a number of one-man, do-ityourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify

the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and. follow the kit manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from the system.

- Bleeding sequence 11 If the system has been only partially disconnected, and suitable precautions were

taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary only to bleed that part of the system (ie the primary or secondary circuit). 12 if the complete system is to be bled, then it should be done working in the following sequence:

Non-ABS models a) Left-hand rear brake. b) Right-hand front brake. c) Right-hand rear brake. d) Left-hand front brake.

2.12a Disconnect the wiring connector (arrowed) from the hydraulic modulator assembly - Bendix ABS

Models with Bosch (4-wheel) ABS a) Left-hand front brake. b). Right-hand front brake. c) Left-hand rear brake. d) Right-hand rear brake. Note: /f difficulty is experienced in bleeding the braking circuit on models with Bosch (4wheel) ABS, using the above sequence, try bleeding the complete system working in the following order: a) Right-hand rear brake. b) Left-hand rear brake. c) Left-hand front brake. d) Right-hand front brake.

Bleeding - . basic (two-man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit the screw. The help of an assistant will also be required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw in the sequence (see illustration). Fit the spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the “MIN” level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake pedal several times to build up pressure, then

2.12b

Hydraulic modulator assembly bleed screws (arrowed) - Bendix ABS

screw is free from air bubbles. If the master cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air is being bled from the first screw in the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten

:

the bleed screw securely, remove the tube

3

and spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do not overtighten the bleed screw. 20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining

Models with Bendix (2-wheel) ABS

unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one

flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain pedal pressure, following it down to the floor if necessary, and should not release it until instructed to do so. When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant release the pedal slowly, and recheck the reservoir fluid level. 18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16

Bleeding using a one-way valve kit

re

|

21 As their name implies, these kits consist of a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted, © to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a

_ .

translucent container, which can be positioned

os

so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles (see illustration).

turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to

and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed

;

screws in the sequence, until all air is removed from the system and the brake pedal feels firm again. é

maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained;

Note: Before carrying out any bleeding, switch off the ignition, and disconnect the. wiring connector (8-pin, black) from the hydraulic modulator assembly (see illustration). a) Rear brake furthest from master cylinder. b) Rear brake nearest master cylinder. c) Front brake furthest from master cylinder. d) Front brake nearest master cylinder. e) Hydraulic modulator assembly (see illustration).

os

2.14 Rear brake wheel cylinder dust cap (arrowed) - model with rear drum brakes

9e4 Braking system scars

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ise

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ins ms en

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etiam

30 Discard any fluid that has been bled from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in the system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed properly after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.

32 On models with Bendix 2-wheel ABS, reconnect

the

wiring

connector

to

the

hydraulic modulator assembly.

2.22

Bleeding a rear brake caliper using a one-way valve kit

23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that it is easy to forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is maintained at least above the “MIN” level line at all times.

24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably to reduce

the pressure

Hydraulic pipes and hoses renewal

to a

lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw in turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 26 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the

system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding “difficult” systems, or when _ bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.

All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid, tighten the bleed screws, and refit their dust

Caps. ; 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary (see “Weekly checks”).

pipe or hose

ae

4 |f a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can be obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts and end flares in place, from Peugeot dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend it to shape, following the line of the original, before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most motor accessory shops can make up brake pipes from kits, but this requires very careful measurement of the original, to ensure that the replacement is of the correct length. The safest answer is usually to take the original to the shop as a pattern. 5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint. 6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses are correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they are secured in the clips or brackets provided. After fitting, remove the polythene from the reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system as

WHEE

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid. 1 If any

Bleeding using a pressure-bleeding kit

be necessary

3

ae

is to be renewed,

minimise fluid loss by first removing the master.cylinder reservoir cap, then tightening it down onto a piece of polythene to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can be sealed, if required, using a proprietary. brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care is taken not to allow

dirt into the system) or capped immediately they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag under any union that is to be disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid. 2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected, unscrew the brake pipe union nut before removing the spring clip which secures the hose to its. mounting bracket (see illustration). 3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferable to obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size; these are available from most large motor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but it follows that

the pipe and the damaged nuts must be renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union and surrounding area before disconnecting it. If disconnecting a component with more than one union, make a careful note of the connections before disturbing any of them.

described in Section 2. Wash off any spilt fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

4

Front brake pads - — renewal )

* RQ

Warning: Renew both sets of front brake pads at the same time -

never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Note

that the dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is 2 health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed

air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front roadwheels. -2 Trace the brake pad wear sensor wiring back from the pads, and disconnect it from

the wiring connector (see illustration). Note the routing of the wiring, and free it from any relevant retaining clips. 3 Push the piston into its bore by pulling the: caliper outwards. 4 There are three different types of front _ brake caliper fitted to the models covered in this manual as follows: : a) Models with solid front discs - Bendix calipers. b) Models with ventilated front discs except for 2.0 litre engine models - ATE Teves Calipers. c) 2.0 litre engine models - Girling calipers.

Bendix caliper 3.2 Hydraulic pipe-to-flexible hose connection

7 Union nut © .4 Splined end 2 Flexible hose fitting 3 Spring clip support 5 Mounting bracket

4.2 Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring from the connector (arrowed)

5 Using pliers, extract the small spring clip from the pad retaining plate, and then slide the plate out of the caliper (see illustrations). 6 Withdraw the pads from the caliper, then make a note of the correct fitted position of

Braking system

4.5a

On the Bendix caliper, remove the spring clip...

each anti-rattle spring, and remove the spring from each pad (see illustration).

7 First measure the thickness of each brake pad’s friction material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed (see illustration). Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no proper way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. New brake pads and spring kits are available from Peugeot dealers. 8 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean; fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and

pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper body/mounting bracket. 9 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper body/mounting bracket, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged (see illustration). Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston

for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attention to any of these components is necessary, refer to Section 10. 10 lf new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder to make room for them. Either use a

4

4.5b

...then slide out the retaining plate...

G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir‘has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the “MAX” level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off or ejected via a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw (see Section 2). Warning: Do not syphon the fluid A

by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster.

11 Fit the anti-rattle springs to the pads; when the pads are installed in the caliper, the spring end must be located at the opposite end of the pad in relation to the pad retaining plate. 12 Locate the pads in the caliper, ensuring that the friction material of each pad is against the brake disc, and check that the anti-rattle spring ends are at the opposite end of the pad to which the retaining plate is to be inserted. Note that if the pads are installed correctly, looking at the pads from the front of the vehicle, the innermost pad groove must be higher than the outer pad groove. Ensure that the pads are fitted correctly before proceeding (see illustration). 13 Slide the retaining plate into place, and install the new small spring clip at its inner end. It may be necessary to file an entry chamfer on the edge of the retaining plate, to enable it to be fitted without difficulty. 14 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring connectors, ensuring that the outer

4.6 ...and remove the pads. Note the correct fitted positions of pad springs (arrowed) wire is correctly routed through the anti-rattle spring loops, and that both wires pass through the loop of the bleed screw cap. 15 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) . pedal pressure is restored. 16 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper. 17 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

18 Check.

the

hydraulic

fluid

level

as

described in “Weekly checks”.

4.12 Correct fitting of brake pads Bendix caliper

oid

4.7 Measuring brake pad friction material thickness

9e5

4.9 Check the condition of the guide pins “and gaiters - Girling caliper shown

B Grooves V Bleed screw

D Pad retaining plate spring clip

9e6 Braking system

mie

4.19 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the pad retaining spring from the caliper - ATE caliper

f

Gs

, ae.

5

-*

... then unscrew the guide bolts...

ge 4.21b ...and slide off the caliper and inner pad assembly - ATE caliper

ATE Teves caliper 19 Using a screwdriver, prise the pad retaining spring from the outer edge of the caliper, noting its correct fitted position (see illustration). 20 Prise out the two guide bolt dust caps from the inner edge of the caliper (see illustration). 21 Unscrew the guide bolts from the caliper, and lift the caliper and inner pad away from the mounting bracket. Tie the caliper to the suspension strut using a suitable piece of wire (see illustrations). Caution: Do not allow the caliper to hang unsupported on the flexible brake hose. 22 Remove the inner pad from the caliper piston, noting that it is retained by a clip attached to the pad backing plate, and recover the outer pad from the mounting bracket. 23 Proceed as described in paragraphs 7 to 10.

4.27 Slide the caliper into position and install the guide bolts, tightening them to the specified torque - ATE caliper

4.24 Clip the inner pad securely into the caliper piston...

4.25 ...and fit the outer pad to the caliper mounting bracket - ATE caliper

24 Fit the inner pad to the caliper, ensuring that its clip is correctly located in the caliper piston (see illustration). 25 Fit the outer pad to the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that its friction material is facing the brake disc (see illustration). 26 Slide the caliper and inner pad into position over the outer pad, and locate it in the mounting bracket. 27 Install the caliper guide bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 28 Refit the guide bolt dust caps to the Caliper. 29 Refit the pad retaining spring to the caliper, ensuring that its ends are correctly located in the caliper-holes (see illustration). 30 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the pads are pressed into firm

31 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front brake caliper. 32 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring connectors, ensuring that the wiring is correctly routed, as noted before removal. 33 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque setting. 34 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”.

contact with the brake disc.

on refitting.

4.29 When refitting, ensure that the pad retaining spring ends are correctly located in the caliper holes (arrowed)

Girling caliper Note: New guide pin bolts must be used on refitting. 35 Where applicable, prise off the dust covers, then slacken and remove the upper and lower caliper guide pin bolts; using a slim open-ended spanner to prevent the guide pin itself from rotating (see illustration). Discard the guide pin bolts - new bolts must be used

4.35 On the Girling caliper, retain the guide pin with an open-ended spanner while slackening the guide pin bolt

Braking system

97

43 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 44 Finally, check the fluid level (see “Weekly checks”).

All calipers 45 New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after pad renewal.

4.38 Ensure that the brake pads are fitted the correct way around, with friction

5

material facing the disc...

4.39 ...then refit the caliper, feeding the pad wiring through the caliper aperture

Rear brake pads renewal

36 With the guide pin bolts removed, lift the caliper

away

from

the

brake

pads

and

mounting bracket, and tie it to the suspension strut using a suitable piece of wire. Caution: Do not allow the caliper to hang’ unsupported on the flexible brake hose. 37 Withdraw the two brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket, and examine them as described above in paragraphs 7 to 10. _ 38 Install the pads in the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction material of each pad is against the brake disc (see illustration).

39 Position the caliper over.the pads, and pass the pad warning sensor wiring through the caliper aperture and underneath the retaining clip (see illustration). If the threads of the new guide pin bolts are not already precoated with locking compound, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to them. Press the caliper into position, then install the guide pin bolts, tightening them to the specified torque, retaining the guide pins with an open-ended spanner. Where applicable, refit the dust covers to the guide pins. 40 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring connectors, ensuring that the wiring is correctly routed through the loop of the caliper bleed screw cap. 41 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)

pedal pressure is restored. 42 Repeat the above procedure remaining front brake caliper.

on

the

Warning: Renew both sets of rear

A

brake pads at the same

time -

never renew the pads on only one wheel, as uneven braking may result. Dust created by wear of the pads may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts; use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the rear wheels. 2 Extract the small spring clip from the pad retaining plate, and then slide the plate out of the caliper (see illustrations). Discard the spring clip - a new one must be used on refitting. 3 Using pliers if necessary, withdraw both the inner and outer pads from the caliper (see illustration). Make a note of the correct fitted position of the anti-rattle springs, and remove

the springs from each pad. 4 First measure the thickness of the friction material of each brake pad. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed, Also, the pads should be renewed if

any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction

material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. New brake pads and spring kits are available from Peugeot dealers. 5 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in the caliper body/mounting bracket. 6 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the guide sleeves are free to slide easily in the caliper

body, and check that the rubber guide sleeve gaiters are undamaged. Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston for damage, and the piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attention to any of these components is necessary, refer to Section 11. 7 If new brake pads are to be fitted, it will be necessary to retract the piston fully into the caliper bore, by rotating it in a clockwise direction. This can be achieved using a suitable square-section bar, such as the shaft of a screwdriver, which locates snugly in the caliper piston slots (see illustration).

Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the “MAX”

: . . then slide out the pad retaining plate...

.

Bas

.and withdraw the brake pads from the caliper

9°8 Braking system the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored. Check that the inner pad lug is correctly engaged with one of the caliper piston slots. 13 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake caliper. 14 Check the handbrake cable adjustment as described in Section 17, then refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque setting. 15 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”. 16 New pads will not give full braking efficiency until they have bedded in. Be prepared for this, and avoid hard braking. as

LoL ; Retract the piston using a squaresection bar.

level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off, or ejected via_a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw (see Section 2). Warning: Do not syphon the fluid

VAN by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 8 Position the caliper piston so that its piston reference slot (A) is positioned horizontally, above or below the piston groove (B); this is necessary to ensure that the lug on the inner pad will locate with the caliper piston slot on installation (see illustration).

9 The brake pad with the lug on its backing plate is the inner pad. Refit the anti-rattle springs to the pads, so that when the pads are fitted in the caliper, the spring end will be located at the opposite end of the pad, in relation to the pad retaining plate (see illustration).

far as possible for the first hundred miles or so

after pad renewal. 5.8 ...and position the piston so that the reference slot (A) is positioned horizontally above or below the piston groove (B)

10 Locate the outer brake pad in the caliper body, ensuring that its friction material is against the brake disc. Slide the inner pad into position in the caliper, ensuring that the lug on its backing plate is aligned with the slot in the caliper piston (see illustration). 11 Ensure that the anti-rattle spring ends on both pads are correctly positioned, then slide the retaining plate into place, and secure it in position with a new spring clip. It may be necessary to file an entry chamfer on the edge of the retaining plate, to enable it to be fitted

without difficulty. 12 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with

6

Rear brake shoes 2 renewal Warning:

HEE

Brake shoes must be

VAN renewed on both rear wheels at the same time - never renew the shoes on only one wheel, as uneven braking. may result. Also, the dust created by wear of, the shoes may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow it out with compressed air, and don’t

inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when. working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts; use

brake cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Remove the brake 2 Working carefully, precautions, remove from the brake drum,

drum (see and taking all traces backplate

—

Section 9). the necessary of brake dust and shoes.

3 Measure the thickness of the friction material of each brake shoe at several points; if either shoe is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set. The shoes should also be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no proper way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated.

5.9 Inner brake pad can be identified by its _ locating lug (arrowed). Note the correct fitted positions of the anti-rattle springs

4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly, or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. 5 To renew

the brake shoes,

proceed

as

described under the relevant sub-heading.

Bendix brake shoes

6.6a Correct fitted positions of the Bendix

rear brake components | A B C F 5.10 Install the inner pad, ensuring its : locating lug is correctly engaged in the ; piston slot

Leading shoe Trailing shoe -Lower pivot point Adjuster strut mechanism 1 Upper return spring

2

Lower return spring 3. Retaining pin, spring and spring cup 4 Adjuster strut-totrailing shoe spring

Note: The components encountered may vary in detail, but the principles described in the following paragraphs are equally applicable to all models. Make a careful note of the fitted positions of all components before dismantling.

6 Using a pair of pliers, remove the shoe retainer spring cups by depressing and. turning them through 90° (see illustrations). With the cups removed, lift off the springs and withdraw the retainer pins. 7 Ease the shoes out one at a time from the lower pivot point, to release the tension of the

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6.6b Removing a shoe retainer spring cup

|

6.7. On Bendix rear brake shoes, ease the shoes out of the lower pivot point, and disconnect the lower return spring

return spring, then disconnect the lower return spring from both shoes (see illustration). 8 Ease the upper end of both shoes out from their wheel cylinder locations, taking care not to damage the wheel cylinder seals, and .

adjuster wheel, and renew if necessary. Note that left-hand and right-hand struts are not interchangeable - they are marked “G” (left) and “D” (right) respectively. Also note that the

‘disconnect the handbrake cable from the trailing shoe. The brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can then be manoeuvred out

left-hand strut bolt has a left-handed thread, and the right-hand bolt a right-handed thread. 12 Ensure that the components on the end of the strut are correctly positioned, then apply a little high-melting-point grease to the threads of the adjuster bolt (see illustration). Screw the adjuster wheel onto the bolt until only a small gap exists between the wheel and the

of position and away from the backplate. Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled; wrap an elastic band around

the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them. 9 With the shoe and adjuster strut assembly on a bench, make a note of the correct fitted

positions of the springs and adjuster strut, to use as a guide on reassembly. Release the handbrake lever stop-peg (if not already done), then carefully detach the adjuster strut bolt retaining spring from the leading shoe. Disconnect the upper return spring, then detach the leading shoe and return spring ~

|

from the trailing shoe and strut assembly. Unhook the-spring securing the adjuster strut to the trailing shoe, and separate the two. 10 If genuine Peugeot brake-shoés are being installed, it-will be necessary to remove the handbrake lever from the original trailing shoe,

and install it on the new shoe. Secure the '. lever in position with a new retaining clip. All return springs should be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition; spring kits are also available from Peugeot dealers. 11 Withdraw the adjuster bolt from the strut,

_and carefully examine the assembly for signs of wear or damage. Pay particular attention to the threads of the adjuster bolt and the knurled

6.16 Apply a little high-melting-point grease to the shoe contact points on the backplate

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strut adjuster bolts are not interchangeable; the

© head of the bolt, then fit the bolt in the strut. 13 Fit the adjuster strut retaining spring to the

trailing shoe, ensuring that the shorter hook of the spring is engaged with the shoe. Attach the adjuster strut to the spring end, then ease the strut into its slot in the trailing shoe. 14 Engage the upper return spring with the trailing shoe, then hook the leading shoe onto the other end of the spring, and lever the leading shoe down uniil the adjuster bolt head is correctly located in its groove. Once the bolt is correctly located, hook its retaining spring into the slot on the leading shoe. 15 Peel back the rubber protective caps, and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage; check that both cylinder pistons are free to move easily. Refer to

Section 12, if necessary, for information on

6.12 Correct fitted position of Bendix adjuster strut components

-

backplate, then refit the shoe retainer pins and springs, and secure them in position with the spring cups. 20 Using a screwdriver, turn the strut adjuster wheel to expand the shoes until the brake drum just slides over the shoes.

21

Refit the brake drum (see Section 9).

22 Repeat the above remaining rear brake. -

procedure

on

the

23 Once both sets of rear shoes have been renewed, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed. 24. Check and, if necessary, adjust the handbrake as described in Section 17. 25 On completion, check the hydraulic fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”.

Girling brake shoes Note: The components encountered may vary in detail, but the principles described in the following paragraphs are equally applicable to all modéls. Make a careful note of the fitted positions of all components before dismantling.

26 Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the springs and adjuster strut, to use as a guide on reassembly (see illustration).

wheel cylinder renewal. 16 Prior to installation, clean the backplate, and apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake grease or anti-seize compound to all those surfaces of the backplate which bear on the shoes, particularly the wheel cylinder pistons and lower pivot point (see

illustration). Do not allow the lubricant to foul the friction material. 17 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-peg is correctly located against the edge of the trailing shoe, and remove the elastic band fitted to the wheel cylinder. 18 Manoeuvre the shoe and strut assembly into position on the vehicle, and locate the upper end of both shoes with the wheel cylinder pistons. Attach the handbrake cable to the trailing shoe lever. Fit the lower return spring to both shoes, and ease the shoes into position on the lower pivot point. 19 Tap the shoes to centralise them with the

6.26 Correct fitted positions of Girling rear brake components Arrow indicates direction of wheel rotation

ae a oe Ok £

9°10

mq

Braking system

6.37 On Girling rear brake shoes, adjuster strut fork cut-out (A) must engage with leading shoe adjusting lever on refitting

27 Carefully unhook both the upper and lower return springs, and remove them from the brake shoes. 28 Using a pair of pliers, remove the leading shoe retainer spring cup by depressing it and turning through 90°. With the cup removed, lift off the spring, then withdraw the retainer pin and remove the shoe from the backplate. Unhook the adjusting lever spring, and remove it from the leading shoe. 29 Detach the adjuster strut, and remove it from the trailing shoe. 30 Remove the trailing shoe retainer spring cup, spring and’pin as described above, then detach the handbrake cable and remove the shoe from the vehicle. Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled; wrap a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them. _ 31 If genuine Peugeot brake shoes are being installed, it will be necessary to remove the

adjusting lever from the original leading shoe, and install it on the new shoe. All return springs should. be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition; spring kits are also available from Peugeot dealers. 32 Withdraw the forked end from the strut, and carefully examine the assembly for signs _ of wear or damage. Pay particular attention to the threads and the knurled adjuster wheel,

and renew if necessary. Note that left-hand and right-hand struts are not interchangeable; the left-hand fork has a right-handed thread, and the right-hand fork a left-handed thread. 33 Peel back the rubber protective caps, and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage; check that both cylinder

pistons are free to move

easily. Refer to

Section 12, if necessary, for information on

wheel cylinder renewal. 34

Prior to installation, clean the backplate,

and apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake grease or anti-seize compound to all those surfaces of the backplate which bear on the shoes, particularly the wheel cylinder pistons and lower pivot point. Do not allow the lubricant to foul the friction material. 35 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-peg is correctly located against the edge of the trailing shoe, and remove the elastic band fitted to the wheel cylinder. 36 Locate the upper end of the trailing shoe in the wheel cylinder piston, then refit the retainer pin and spring, and secure it in position with the spring cup. Connect the

handbrake cable to the lever. 37 Screw in the adjuster wheel until the minimum strut length is obtained, then hook the strut into position on the trailing shoe. Rotate the adjuster strut forked end, so that the cut-out of the fork will engage with the leading shoe adjusting lever once the shoe is installed (see illustration). 38 Fit the spring to the leading shoe adjusting lever, so that the shorter hook of the spring engages with the lever. 39 Slide the leading shoe assembly into position, ensuring that it is correctly engaged with the adjuster strut fork, and that the fork cut-out is engaged with the adjusting lever. Ensure that the upper end of the shoe is located in the wheel cylinder piston, then secure the shoe in position with the retainer pin, spring and spring cup. 40 Install the upper and lower return springs, then tap the shoes to centralise them with the backplate. 41 Using a screwdriver, turn the strut adjuster wheel to expand the shoes until the brake drum just slides over the shoes.

42 Refit the brake drum

Section 9.

as described

in

;

43 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake. 44 Once both sets of rear shoes have been renewed, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal. Whilst. depressing the pedal, have an assistant listen to the rear drums, to check that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly; if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by the strut as the pedal is depressed. 45 Check and, if necessary, adjust the handbrake as described in Section 17.

46 On completion, check the hydraulic fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”.

All shoes 47 New

shoes

will not give full braking

efficiency until they have bedded

in. Be

prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as far as possible for the first hundred miles or so after shoe renewal.

7

Front brake disc inspection, removal and refitting

WHE

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at the beginning of Section 4 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection Note: /f either disc requires renewal, BOTH should be renewed at the same time, to

ensure ever and consistent braking. New brake pads should also be fitted. 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the full area of both sides can be checked; remove the brake pads if better access is required to the inboard surface. Light scoring is normal in the area swept by the brake pads, but if heavy scoring or cracks are found, the disc must be renewed. / 3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brake dust around the disc’s perimeter; this can be scraped off if required. If, however, a lip has formed due to excessive wear of the brake pad swept area, then the disc’s thickness must be measured using a micrometer (see illustration). Take measurements at several places around the disc, at the inside and outside of the pad swept area; if the disc has worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, the disc must be renewed. 4 If the disc is thought to be warped, it can be

checked for run-out. Either use a dial gauge mounted on any convenient fixed point, while the disc is slowly rotated, or use feeler blades to measure (at several points all around the disc) the clearance between the disc and a fixed point, such as the caliper mounting. bracket (see illustration). If the measurements obtained are at the specified maximum or beyond, the disc is excessively warped, and must’be renewed; however, it is

Poe 7.3 Using a micrometer to measure disc thickness

cs

7.4 Checking disc run-out using a dial

gauge

worth checking first that the hub bearing is in good condition (Chapters 1 and/or 10). Also try the effect of removing the disc and turning it through 180°, to reposition it on the hub; if the run-out is still excessive, the disc must be renewed. 5 Check the disc for cracks, especially around the wheel bolt holes, and any other wear or damage, and renew if necessary.

Braking system 9e11 Removal 6 On models with Bendix calipers, remove the brake pads as described in Section 4. 7 On models with ATE Teves and Girling calipers, remove the caliper as described in Section 10; but note that there is no need to disconnect the fluid hose from the caliper (see illustrations). Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliper to the front suspension coil spring, to avoid placing any strain on the fluid hose. 8 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship of the disc to the hub, then remove the screws securing the brake disc to the hub, and remove the disc (see illustration). If it is tight, lightly tap its rear face with a hide or plastic mallet.

the disc (see illustration). If it is tight, lightly tap its rear face with a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting

Refitting

9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal. procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the disc and hub are clean and flat. b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on removal, and securely tighten the disc retaining screws.

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the disc and hub are clean and flat. b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on

Cc) If anew disc has been fitted, use a suitable solvent to wipe any preservative coating from the disc, before refitting the caliper. d) On models with ATE Teves and Girling -Calipers, refit the calipers as described in ~ Section 10. e) On models with Bendix calipers, refit the . pads as described in Section 4. f) Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel! bolts to the specified torque. On completion, repeatedly depress the brake pedal until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure returns.

removal, and securely tighten the disc retaining screws. c) If anew disc has been fitted, use a suitable solvent to wipe any preservative

coating from the disc, before refitting the caliper. d) Refit the brake pads as described in Section 5. e) Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwhee! bolts to the specified torque.

9 Rear brake drum removal, inspection

and refitting

brakes 3 yyyrear models

Wi

All except models with Bendix

Note: Before oaths work, refer to thirnote at the beginning of Section 5 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

.. then slide the caliper assembly off E the disc

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at the beginning of Section 6 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

br

inspection, a and a re ae

7.7a Undo the two mounting bolts...

and ABS, and Van

Removal Note: A new rear hub nut and hub cap must be used on refitting.

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). Remove the appropriate rear wheel. 2 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully tap and prise the cap out of the centre of the brake drum. Discard the cap - anew one must be used on refitting. Using a hammer and chisel, tap up the staking securing the hub retaining nut to the groove in the stub axle. 3 Using a socket and long bar, slacken and remove the rear hub nut, and withdraw the thrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nut must used on refitting. 4 It should now be possible to withdraw the brake drum and hub bearing assembly from the stub axle by hand. It may be difficult to

remove the drum due to the tightness of the

hub bearing on the stub axle, or due to the brake shoes binding on _ the _ inner circumference of the drum. If the bearing is tight, tap the periphery of the drum using a hide or plastic mallet, or use a universal puller, secured to the drum with the wheel bolts, to

pull it off. If the brake shoes are binding, first check that the handbrake is fully released, then proceed as follows. 5 Referring to Section 17 for further information, fully slacken the handbrake cable adjuster nut, to obtain maximum free play in the cable. 6 Insert a screwdriver through one of the wheel bolt holes in the brake drum, so that it contacts the handbrake operating lever on the trailing brake shoe. Push the lever until the

Note: /f either disc requires renewal, BOTH should

be renewed

at the same

time,

to.

ensure even and consistent braking. New brake pads should also be fitted. 1 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 2 Inspect the disc as described in Section 7.

Removal 3 Remove the brake pads as described in | ’ Section 5. 4 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship of .-7.8 Undo the two retaining screws and the disc to the hub, then remove the screw remove the disc securing the brake disc to the hub, and remove

8.4 Removing a rear brake disc

; *

ha ms~we eee "4 “a at 4¢ ae Ae A S ee ae

1

9e12

Braking system 16 On completion, refit the roadwheel(s), 9 Examine carefully the inside of the drum. then lower the vehicle to the ground and Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, tighten the wheel bolts to the specified but if heavy scoring is found, the drum must be renewed. It is usual to find a lip on the torque. drum’s inboard edge which consists of a Models with Bendix rear brakes mixture of rust and brake dust; this should be and ABS, and Van models scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120- to 150Removal grade) emery paper. If, however, the lip is due , 17 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the to the friction surface being recessed by rear of the vehicle and support it on axle excessive wear, then the drum must be stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). renewed. Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 10 If the drum is thought to be excessively 18 Remove the drum retaining screw. worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be 19 It should now be possible to withdraw the measured at several points using an internal brake drum by hand. It may be difficult to micrometer. Take measurements in pairs, the remove the drum due to the brake shoes second at right-angles to the first, and binding on the inner circumference of the compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. drum. If the brake shoes are binding, first Provided that it does not enlarge the drum to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it check that the handbrake is fully released, then proceed as described in paragraphs 5 may be possible to have the drum refinished and 6. by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, the drums on both sides must be renewed. Inspection Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH 20 Refer to paragraphs 7 to 10 inclusive. drums must be refinished, to maintain a Refitting consistent internal diameter on both sides. 21 Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 Refitting

9.6a Using a screwdriver inserted through the brake drum to release the handbrake operating lever E Handbrake operating lever stop-peg

location stop-peg slips behind the brake shoe web, allowing the brake shoes to retract fully (see illustrations). The brake drum can now be withdrawn, and the seal slid off the stub axle.

Inspection Note: /f either drum requires renewal, BOTH - should be renewed at the same time, to ensure even and consistent braking. New

brake shoes should also be fitted. -7 Working

carefully,

remove

all traces

of

brake dust from the drum, but avoid inhaling the dust, as it is injurious to health. 8 Clean the outside of the drum, and check it for obvious signs of wear or damage, such as cracks around the roadwheel bolt holes; renew the drum if necessary.

11 If anew brake drum is to be installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating that may have been applied to its interior. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the strut wheel, to allow the drum to pass over the brake shoes. 12 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-peg is correctly repositioned against the edge of the brake shoe web (see illustration), then apply a smear of clean engine oil to the stub

axle, and slide on the seal and brake drum. 13 Fit the thrustwasher and new hub nut, and tighten the hub nut to the specified torque. Stake the nut firmly into the groove on the stub axle, to secure it in position, then tap the new hub cap into place in the centre of the brake drum. 14 Depress the footbrake several times to operate the self-adjusting mechanism. 15 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining rear brake assembly (where necessary), then check and,if necessary, adjust the handbrake cable as described in Section 17.

and 12. 22 Refit screw.

and

tighten

the

drum

retaining

23 Proceed as described in paragraphs 14 to 16 inclusive.

10 Front brake caliper ‘

°

og

Pa overhaul and refitting N .

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warning at the beginning of Section 4 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, and then tightening it down onto a piece of polythene, to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use a brake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp the flexible hose. .

Bendix caliper 3 Remove the brake pads as described in ©

Section 4.

“9.6b Releasing the handbrake bparatli lever

9.12 Check that the handbrake lever stoppeg is positioned against the shoe edge

;

4 Clean the area around the union, then loosen the fluid hose union nut. 5 Slacken the two bolts securing the caliper . assembly to the swivel hub and remove them along with the mounting plate, noting which way around the plate iis fitted. Lift the caliper

assembly away from the brake disc, and unscrew it from the end of the fluid hose.

Braking system 9°13 ATE Teves caliper 6 Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring, and.free it from any retaining clips. 7 Clean the area around the union, then loosen the fluid hose union nut. 8 Using a screwdriver, prise the pad retaining spring from the outer edge of the caliper, noting its correct fitted position. 9 Prise out the two guide bolt dust caps from the inner edge of the caliper. 10 Unscrew the guide bolts from the caliper, and lift the caliper and inner pad away from the mounting bracket. Unscrew the caliper

the precautions described were taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed the relevant front brake. 19 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

ATE Teves 20

caliper

Refit the inner brake pad to the’Caliper,

ensuring that the clip engages correctly with the piston. 21 Screw the caliper fully onto the flexible hose union, then position the caliper over the brake disc. Ensure that the outer pad is in from the end of the fluid hose. The outer pad position in the caliper mounting bracket. can be left in the caliper mounting bracket. 22 Slide the caliper and inner pad into 11 Remove the inner pad from the caliper position over the outer pad, and locate the piston, noting that it is retained by a clip caliper in the mounting bracket. attached to the pad backing plate. 23 Fit the caliper guide bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque setting. Girling caliper ' 24 Refit the guide bolt dust caps. Note: New guide pin bolts must be used on 25 Refit the pad retaining spring to the refitting. caliper, ensuring that its ends are correctly 12 Clean the area around the hose union, located in the caliper holes. \ then looser: the union. Disconnect the pad 26 Reconnect the pad wear sensor wiring, wear warning sensor wiring connector, and ensuring that it is correctly routed as noted free it from any relevant retaining clips. before removal. 13 Slacken and remove the upper and lower 27 Tighten the brake hose union securely, caliper guide pin bolts, using a slim openthen remove the brake hose clamp or ended spanner to prevent the guide pin itself polythene, where fitted, and bleed the from rotating. Discard the guide pin bolts hydraulic system (see Section 2). Providing new bolts must be used on refitting. With the the precautions described were taken to guide pin bolts removed, lift the caliper away minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be from the brake disc, then unscrew the caliper necessary to bleed the relevant front brake. from the end of the brake hose. Note that the 28 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until brake pads need not be disturbed, and can be normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is left in position in the caliper mounting bracket. restored, and the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc. Overhaul 29 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the 14 The caliper can be overhauled after vehicle to the ground and tighten the obtaining the relevant repair kit from a roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

Peugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repair kit is obtained for the caliper being worked on. _ Note the locations of all components to ., ensure correct refitting, and lubricate the new seals using clean brake fluid. Follow the assembly instructions supplied with the repair kit.

Refitting Bendix caliper 15 Screw the caliper fully onto the flexible hose union, then position the caliper over the

brake disc. _ 16 If the threads of the new caliper mounting bolts are not already pre-coated with locking compound,

apply

a_

suitable

locking

compound to them. Refit the bolts along with the mounting plate, ensuring that the plate is fitted so that its bend curves away from the caliper body. With the plate correctly positioned, tighten the caliper bolts to the _ specified torque. 17 Securely tighten the brake hose union nut, then refit the brake pads (see Section 4). 18 Remove the brake hose clamp or polythene, as applicable, and bleed the hydraulic system (see Section 2). Providing i Keen

aad

*

°

j

a4 45

nd

Ps

d

t

¢ re.

y

” Sn es :

’ “>

ee

>,

4 La ,

a

ww

7

bak ns eo

Girling caliper 30 Screw

the caliper body fully onto the

flexible hose union, then check that the brake pads are still correctly fitted in the caliper mounting bracket. 31 Position the caliper over the pads, and pass the pad warning sensor wiring through the caliper aperture. If the threads of the new

guide pin bolts are not already pre-coated with locking compound, apply a suitable locking compound to them. Fit the new lower guide pin bolt, then press the caliper into position and fit the new upper guide pin bolt. Securely tighten both the guide pin bolts, while retaining the guide pin with an openended spanner. $2 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor wiring connectors, ensuring that the wiring is correctly routed through the loop of the caliper bleed screw cap. 33 Tighten the brake hose union nut securely, then remove the brake hose clamp or polythene, where fitted, and bleed the hydraulic system (see Section 2). Providing the precautions described were taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed the relevant front brake.

Santee

11.3a

ce |

Disconnect the handbrake inner

cable from the caliper lever... 34 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure is restored.

35 Refit the roadwheel, then lower vehicle to the ground and tighten roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

11 Rear brake caliper removal, overhaul and refitting

the the

y

xy

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at

the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warning at the beginning of Section 5 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal Note: New caliper mounting bolts must be used on refitting. 1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the relevant rear wheel. 2 Remove the brake pads (see Section 5). ; 3 Ensure that the handbrake is fully released, then free the handbrake inner cable from the caliper handbrake operating lever. Tap the outer cable out of its bracket on the caliper

body (see illustrations). 4 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, and then tightening it down onto a piece of polythene,

to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use a brake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool —

11.3b ... then tap the outer cable out from the caliper body

cae SunaAc ry Z

ee Re mebe

9°14 Braking system 13 Repeatedly apply the brake pedal until normal (non-assisted) pedal pressure returns. — Check andif necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described in Section 17. 14 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the

vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. Finally, check the fluid level as described in /WeERY checks”.

12 Rear wheel cylinder removal and refitting

11.7 Exploded view of the rear brake caliper 71 Dust seal 2 3 4

Piston Retaining clip Handbrake mechanism dust cover

5 Circlip 6 Spring washers 7 Handbrake operating lever

to clamp the flexible hose at the nearest convenient point to the brake caliper.

5 Wipe away all traces of dirt around the brake pipe union on the caliper, and slacken the union nut. 6 Slacken the two bolts securing the caliper assembly to the trailing arm, and remove them along with the mounting plate, noting which way around the plate is fitted. Lift the caliper assembly

away

from

the brake

disc,

and

unscrew it from the end of the brake hose. Discard the caliper mounting bolts - they should be renewed whenever they are disturbed. °

Overhaul 7

The caliper can be overhauled after obtaining the relevant repair kit from a Peugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repair kit is obtained for the caliper being worked on. Note the locations of all components (this applies particularly. if the handbrake mechanism is dismantled) to ensure correct refitting, and lubricate the new seals using brake fluid (see illustration). Follow the assembly instructions supplied with the repair kit. 6

Refitting

8 9 10 11

Plunger cam Return spring Adjusting screw Thrustwasher

/

8 Screw the caliper fully onto the brake hose, then position the caliper over the brake disc. If the threads of the new caliper mounting bolts are not already pre-coated with locking compound, apply ‘a suitable locking compound to them. Install the new caliper mounting bolts and the mounting plate, noting that the mounting plate must be fitted ‘so that its bend curves away from the caliper body. With the plate correctly. positioned, tighten the caliper bolts to the specified torque, tightening the lower bolt first. 9 Tighten the brake hose union securely, then remove the clamp from the flexible brake hose, or the polythene from the master cylinder reservoir (as applicable). 10 Insert the handbrake cable through its bracket on the caliper, and tap the outer cable into position using a hammer and suitable pin punch. Reconnect the inner cable to ithe caliper operating lever. 11 Refit the brake pads (see Section 5). 12 Bleed the hydraulic system as described

in Section 2. Note that, providing the precautions described were taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be necessary to

bleed the relevant rear brake.

WHE

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warning at the beginning of Section 6 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal 1 Remove the brake drum (see Section 9). 2 Using pliers, carefully unhook the upper brake shoe return spring, and remove it from both brake shoes. Pull the upper ends of the shoes away from the wheel cylinder to disengage them from the pistons. : 3 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, and then tightening it down onto a piece of polythene, to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use a brake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp the flexible hose at the nearest convenient point to the wheel cylinder (see illustration). . 4 Wipe away all traces of dirt around the brake pipe union at the rear of the wheel

cylinder, and unscrew the union nut (see illustration). Carefully ease the pipe out of the wheel cylinder, and plug or tape over its end to prevent dirt entry. Wipe off any spilt fluid immediately. 5 Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retaining bolts from the rear of the backplate, and remove the cylinder, taking great care not to allow surplus hydraulic fluid to contaminate -

the brake shoe linings. 6 Note that it is not possible to overhaul the cylinder, since no components are available separately. If faulty, the complete wheel cylinder assembly must be renewed.

Refitting 7 Ensure that the backplate and wheel cylinder mating surfaces are clean, then spread the brake shoes and manoeuvre the

wheel cylinder into position.

12.3 To minimise fluid loss, fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose

12.4 spire asibeake pipe spanner to

unscrew the wheel cylinder union nut

8 Engage the brake pipe, and screw in the union nut two or three turns to ensure that the thread has started. 9 Insert the two wheel cylinder retaining bolts, and tighten them securely. Now: beck tighten the brake pipe union nut. 10 Remove the clamp from the flexible brake’ hose,

or the

polythene

from

cylinder reservoir (as applicable).

the

master

—

adopt SEU p

; :

ty

sted b OY aha

Braking system

9¢15

soe sear

c

13.2 Disconnecting the wiring connector ’ from the master cylinder fluid level sender

13.3 Using a brake pipe spanner to unscrew the master cylinder union nut

,

11 Ensure that the brake shoes are correctly O-ring from the rear of the master cylinder, located in the cylinder.pistons, then carefully and discard it. refit the brake shoe upper return spring. Use a Overhaul screwdriver to stretch the spring into position. 5 The master cylinder can be overhauled after 12 Refit the brake drum (see Section 9). obtaining the relevant repair kit from a 13 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as Peugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repair described in Section 2. Providing suitable kit is obtained for the master cylinder being precautions were taken to minimise loss of worked on. Note the locations of all fluid, it should only be necessary to bleed the components to ensure correct refitting, and relevant rear brake. « lubricate the new seals using clean brake fluid. Follow the assembly instructions 13 Master cylinder EN supplied with the repair kit.

|

removal, overhaul and refitting SN

x

Note: Before starting, refer to the warning in Section 2 on the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal! Note: A new O-ring must be used when refitting the master cylinder. 1 On left-hand-drive models, to provide improved access, remove the battery and - battery tray as described in Chapter 5A. 2 On all models, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw in the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluid through a plastic tube connected to the screw (see Section 2). “Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fluid level sender unit (see illustration). 3 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, ‘then unscrew the union nuts and_ carefully withdraw the pipes (see illustration). Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder

Refitting 6 Remove all traces of dirt from the master

cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and fit a new O-ring to the groove on the master cylinder body. 7 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the master cylinder mounting nuts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 8 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refit them to the master cylinder ports and tighten them securely. 9 On left-hand-drive models, refit the battery

13.4 Master cylinder retaining nuts (arrowed)

tray and battery (see Chapter 5A). 10 On all models, refill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulic system (see Section 2).

14 Brake pedal removal and refitting

Wily

Removal Note: A new pedal securing nut should be used on refitting. ; 1 Remove the steering column (Chapter 10). 2 Remove the complete facia assembly as described in Chapter 11. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the pedal and the steering column mounting — bracket, with reference to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 if necessary. 4 Unclip any wiring harnesses and/or cables

from the steering column mounting bracket. 5 Unscrew the four steering column bracket

securing nuts, and withdraw the bracket from the bulkhead (see illustration). Note: The two top and the bottom right-hand securing nuts

have a left-hand thread. 6 Prise off the securing clip, and withdraw the clevis pin securing the servo pushrod to the pedal (see illustration). ‘7 Unscrew the nut from the end of the pedal through-bolt (counterhold the through-bolt if necessary). 8 Withdraw the through-bolt from the pedal, and recover the spacer bush if it is loose. Withdraw the pedal.

orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold water. 4 Slacken and remove the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment (see illustration). Remove the

;

‘

be

by

14.5 Steering column bracket mounting details re

71 Bracket 2 Nut with conventional thread 3. Nuts with left-hand thread

14.6 Prise off the securing clip, and withdraw the clevis pin (arrowed)

3

9°16

Braking system and the clutch pedal - see Section 14, and

Refitting

Chapter 6 respectively.

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points. a) Fit anew nut to the pedal through-bolt. b) Refit the facia assembly (Chapter 11). c) Refit the steering column (Chapter 10). d) On completion, check the accelerator cable adjustment as described in the

relevant Part of Chapter 4.

,

15 Vacuum servo unit testing, removal and refitting

LLL 15.14

Testing 1 To test the operation of the servo unit, depress the footbrake several times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine whilst keeping the pedal firmly depressed. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as the vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed it should feel normal, but further applications should result in the pedal feeling firmer, with the pedal stroke decreasing with each application. 2 If the servo does not operate as described, first inspect the servo unit check valve as described in Section 16. On Diesel engine models, also check the operation of the

Recover the gasket from the rear of the servo unit

bottom right-hand securing nuts have a lefthand thread. 9 Remove the master cylinder (Section 13). 10 Slacken the retaining clip (where fitted) and disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo unit check valve. 11 Where applicable, on right-hand-drive models, release the servo vacuum pipe from the clips on the bulkhead, and move the pipe clear of the servo. 12 Prise off the spring clip, then withdraw the clevis pin securing the servo unit pushrod to the brake pedal. 13 Prise back the sound insulation from the pedal mounting bracket for access to the servo mounting nuts (for improved access, remove the brake pedal (Section 14), and the clutch pedal (Chapter 6). 14 Undo the four retaining nuts securing the servo unit to the pedal mounting bracket, then return to the engine compartment and

19 Refit the servo unit pushrod-to-brake pedal clevis pin, and secure it in position with the spring clip. 20 Reconnect the vacuum hose to the servo unit check valve and, where necessary, securely tighten its retaining clip. Where applicable, refit the vacuum pipe to the clips on the bulkhead. 21 Refit the master cylinder (Section 13). 22 Refit the facia assembly (Chapter 11). 23 Refit the steering column (Chapter 10). 24 Where applicable, reconnect the engine/transmission mounting, and/or refit any components removed to provide access.

25 Oncompletion, start the engine and check for air leaks at the vacuum hose-to-servo unit connection; check the operation of the braking system. Also check the accelerator cable adjustment - see the relevant Part of Chapter 4.

16 Vacuum servo unit check valve -

3

removal, testing and refitting

Wit

Removal

Note: /f it is necessary to remove the fluid reservoir for access.to the valve, it may be necessary to use new seals on refitting. 1 On certain models, the check valve is obscured by the master cylinder fluid reservoir. " vacuum pump as described in Section 25. Where this is the case, the reservoir must be 3 lf the servo unit still fails to operate removed for access to the valve as follows. satisfactorily, the fault lies within the unit itself. a) Disconnect the battery negative terminal Repairs to the unit are not possible - if faulty, manoeuvre the servo unit out of position, (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the the servo unit must be renewed. noting the gasket which is fitted to the rear of Reference Section of this manual), then the unit (see illustration). Removal disconnect the wiring plug from the brake fluid level sensor. . Note: On certain right-hand-drive models, to Refitting b) Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, _ gain the clearance required to remove the servo 15 Check the servo unit check valve sealing and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the unit, it may prove necessary to split the rightgrommet for signs of damage or deterioration, reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by hand engine/transmission mounting and move and renew if necessary. mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or the engine forwards slightly; this is due to the 16 Fit a new gasket to the rear of the servo an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open lack of clearance between the servo unit and unit, and reposition the unit in the engine ~ the rear of the engine. If this proves necessary, — compartment. any convenient bleed screw in the system, refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2 for further and gently pump the brake pedal to expel 17 From inside the vehicle, refit and tighten information on supporting the engine and the fluid through a plastic tube connected the servo unit mounting nuts. If the brake dismantling the mounting. Additionally, on to the screw (see Section 2). pedal is in place, ensure that the servo unit some models, it may be necessary to remove. c) Remove the spring clip, then withdraw the — pushrod is engaged with the brake pedal. the inlet manifold (relevant Part of Chapter 4) reservoir securing pin, and lift the 18 Where applicable, refit the brake pedal and/or the camshaft cover and surrounding reservoir from the master cylinder. Plug components - refer to the relevant Chapter for the openings in the master cylinder to details. Anew servo mounting gasket will be prevent dirt ingress. required on refitting. 2 Slacken the retaining clip (where fitted), and 4 Remove the steering column (Chapter 10). disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo - 5 Remove the complete facia assembly as unit check valve. described in Chapter 11. 3 Withdraw the valve from its rubber ‘sealing 6 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the grommet, using a pulling and twisting motion. pedal and the steering column mounting Remove the grommet from the servo (see bracket, with reference to the relevant Part of,

illustration).

Chapter 4 if necessary. 7 Unclip any wiring harnesses and/or cables

Testing

from the steering column mounting bracket. 8 Unscrew the four steering column bracket

16.3 Servo unit check valve is a push-fit in

4 Examine the check valve for signs of damage, and renew if necessary. The valve —

securing nuts, and withdraw the bracket from the bulkhead, Note: The two top and the

the sealing grommet (master cylinder removed for clarity)

may be tested by blowing through it in both directions. Air should flow through the valve in

Braking system

9¢17

3 Slacken and remove the three handbrake lever retaining nuts, and remove the lever from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Prior to refitting the handbrake lever cover panel, adjust the handbrake (see Section 17).

19 Handbrake cables removal and refitting 17.4 Handbrake adjuster nut (arrowed)

18.3 Handbrake lever nuts (arrowed)

one direction only - when blown through from

Applying normal moderate pressure, pull the handbrake lever to the fully-applied position, ~counting the number of clicks emitted from the handbrake ratchet mechanism. If adjustment is correct, there should be 4 to 7 clicks before the handbrake is fully applied. If this is not the case, adjust as follows. 2 For access to the handbrake adjuster nut, remove the centre console (Chapter 11). 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). 4 With the handbrake set on the first notch of the ratchet mechanism, rotate the adjusting nut until only a slight drag can be felt when the rear wheels/hubs are turned (see illustration). Once this is so, fully release the

the servo unit end of the valve. Renew the valve if this is not the case.

5 Examine the rubber sealing grommet and flexible vacuum hose for signs of damage or

deterioration, and renew as necessary:

Refitting 6 Fit the sealing grommet into the servo unit. 7 Ease the check valve into position, taking care not to displace or damage the grommet.

Reconnect the vacuum hose to the valve, and tighten its retaining clip (as applicable). 8 If the master cylinder fluid reservoir has been removed, proceed as follows.

a) Refit the reservoir, using new seals if necessary, then refit the securing pin and the spring clip. b) Reconnect the fluid level sensor wiring, then reconnect the battery negative terminal. c) Fill the reservoir with fluid, then bleed the complete hydraulic system (Section 2). 9 On completion, start the engine and check the check valve-to-servo unit connection for signs of air leaks.

S x

_17 Handbrake -

adjustment ~

Removal

handbrake

lever,

and

check

that

the

wheels/hubs_ rotate freely. Check the adjustment by applying the handbrake fully, counting the clicks from the handbrake ratchet and, if necessary, re-adjust. 5 Refit the centre console, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

18 Handbrake lever removal and refitting

~~

1 To check the handbrake adjustment, first apply the footbrake firmly several times to establish correct shoe-to-drum/pad-to-disc clearance, then apply and release the handbrake several times to ensure that the self-adjust mechanism is fully adjusted.

We

1 Remove the centre console (Chapter 174). The handbrake cable consists of two sections, a right and a left-hand section, which are linked to the lever by an equaliser plate. Each section can be removed individually. 2 Slacken the handbrake lever adjusting nut to obtain maximum free play in the cable(s),

and disengage the inner cables from the handbrake lever plate. 3 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). 4 Slacken and remove the retaining nuts, then release the exhaust system heat shield(s) from the vehicle underbody, to gain access to the front of the relevant handbrake cable. Free the front end of the outer cable from the body, and withdraw the cable from its support guide. 5 Working back along the length of the cable, where applicable prise off the retaining clip and free it from its guide, then depress the

retaining tangs and free the cable from its trailing arm bracket (see illustration). 6 On models with rear drum brakes, remove the rear brake shoes from the relevant side as

described in Section 6. Using

a hammer and

pin punch, carefully tap the outer cable out HU from the brake backplate, and remove it from underneath the vehicle (see illustration).

Removal

7 On models with rear disc brakes, disengage

1 Remove the centre console (Chapter +1). 2 Slacken the handbrake lever adjusting nut to obtain maximum free play in the cables, and. disengage the inner cables from the handbrake lever plate.

the inner cable from the caliper handbrake lever then, using a hammer and pin punch,

tap the outer cable out of its mounting bracket on the caliper, and remove the cable from underneath the vehicle (see illustration).

¢

te

19.5 Free the handbrake cable from the trailing arm bracket (arrowed) . ~ -

19.6 On drum brake models, drive the

outer cable from the brake backplate

=.

-

19.7 On disc brake models, disconnect the cable from the brake caliper

fhe ae Le |eed

Pl ele

9e18

Braking system 2 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

21 Stop-light switch removal, refitting

3 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the.

and adjustment

master cylinder reservoir cap, and then tightening it down onto a piece of polythene, to obtain an airtight seal. 4 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe

unions on the relevant valve, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Retain the relevant pressure-regulating valve with a suitable openended spanner, then slacken the union nuts, 20.1 Rear disc brake pressure-regulating valves (arrowed) - 1.6 litre engine model

8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, adjusting the handbrake as described

disconnect both brake pipes, and remove the valve from underneath the vehicle. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and valve orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold water.

in Section 17.

Refitting

Refitting

0 Rear brake tare enians SS

valves (rear disc brakes ~ Models) - removal and refitting

SS EN

Note: Certain later models are fitted with a

load-sensitive pressure regulating valve assembly fitted to the underside of the vehicle at the rear and connected to the rear suspension by means of an operating rod and spring. Any work on this type of valve should

be entrusted to a Peugeot dealer as specialist - equipment is required to check and adjust the hydraulic pressure settings according to

vehicle loading.

_ 1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre petrol engine and non-Turbo Diesel engine models Note: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal 1 The pressure-regulating valves are located just in front of the rear axle assembly; there are two valves, one for each rear brake caliper

(see illustration).

BR See, ATES aeBTaN as i te TY NN eae ee RE veed ee

5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, ensuring that the pipe union nuts are securely tightened. On completion, bleed the complete braking system (see Section 2).

1.8 and 2.0 litre petrol engine and Turbo Diesel engine models Note: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid. Removal

3 4

Removal 1 The stop-light switch is located on the pedal bracket behind the facia. 2 Remove the complete facia, as described in Chapter 11. 3 Remove the securing clip, and unscrew the switch from the bracket.

Refitting and adjustment 4 Screw the switch back into position in the mounting bracket, until the gap between the end of the main body of the switch and the lug on the brake pedal is approximately 2 to 3.

mm. 5 Once

the stop-light

switch

is correctly

positioned, reconnect the wiring connector, and check the operation of the stop-lights.

The stop-lights should illuminate after the brake pedal has travelled approximately 5 mm. 6 Refit the facia as described in Chapter 11.

:

22 Anti-lock braking system

(ABS)-general information +

6 Two valves are incorporated in a single . assembly, mounted just behind the rear axle. 1 ABS is available as an option on certain 7 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 and 3. models covered by this manual, and is fitted 8 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe as standard equipment on some models. The unions on the valve, and place absorbent rags purpose of the system is to prevent the beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus wheel(s) locking during heavy braking. This is fluid. achieved by automatic release of the brake on 9 Remove the screws securing the valve the relevant wheel, followed by re-application bracket to the underside of the vehicle, and of the brake. The system comprises an withdraw the valve. electronic control module, a_ hydraulic modulator block, the hydraulic solenoid valves Refitting and accumulators, the electrically-driven 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note return pump, and the roadwheel sensors. : that it is possible to adjust the valves, but this 2 One of two different systems may be fitted, operation requires the use of special depending on model. equipment, and should be entrusted to a 3 The Bendix 2-wheel ABS system operates Peugeot dealer. ‘ on the front wheels only (see illustration). This system will prevent front-wheel lock-up by regulating the hydraulic pressure to the front calipers. The ABS has no control over the rear brakes, but conventional pressure regulating valves are fitted to prevent the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking - see Section 20. Models with this system are fitted with front disc brakes, and rear drum brakes. 4 The Bosch 4-wheel ABS system operates on all four wheels., Models with this system may be fitted with rear drum or rear disc brakes. 5 The solenoids (which control the fluid pressure to the calipers) are controlled by the

22.3 Schematic layout of Bendix pes system

Front brake calipers Rear brake wheel cylinders (drum brakes)

: N NS

Master cylinder : Rear brake pressureregulating valve

5 Wheel sensors 6

Modulator assembly

7 Electronic contro! unit

electronic control unit, which itself receives

signals from the wheel sensors (fitted to the

front wheels on the 2-wheel system or all four wheels on the 4-wheel system), which monitor the speed of rotation of each wheel.

Braking system By comparing these speed signals fron) the wheels, the control unit-can determine the

speed at which the vehicle is travelling. It can then use this speed to determine when a wheel is decelerating at an abnormal rate, compared to the speed of the vehicle, and therefore predicts when a wheel is about to lock. During normal operation, the system functions in the same way as anon-ABS braking system.

23 Anti-lock braking system — SS -

(ABS) components - removal and refitting

oO; SN

Bendix 2-wheel ABS Modulator assembly Note: Before starting, refer to the warning in Section 2 on the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal — 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual).

2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the modulator assembly. 3 Mark the locations of the hydraulic fluid pipes

to

ensure

correct

refitting,

then

unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect the pipes from the modulator assembly. Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the open ends of the pipes and the modulator, to prevent dirt ingress and further fluid loss. Note the position of the clip on the brake pipes to ensure correct refitting. 4 Remove the upper securing nut from the modulator mounting bracket. 5 Working under the modulator mounting bracket, unscrew the two lower mounting ‘screws, then withdraw the assembly, - complete with the mounting bracket (see illustration).

23.17 Bendix ABS electronic control module securing screws (arrowed) a ae

~

9¢19

6 If desired; the modulator assembly can be

removed from the bracket after unscrewing the securing nuts. Refitting Caution: Do not

reconnect the wiring conneciors to the modulator until the hydraulic circuits have been bied as described in Section 2. 7 Check the condition of the modulator mounting rubbers, and renew if necessary. 8 Where applicable, refit the modulator to the mounting bracket, ensuring that the mounting rubbers are correctly positioned. 9 Position the assembly in the engine compartment, then refit the lower securing screws, and the upper securing nut. 10 Reconnect the fluid pipes to the assembly, as noted before removal, ensuring that no dirt _ enters the system. Ensure that the brake pipe clip is fitted as noted before removal. 11 Bleed the complete hydraulic system as described in Section 2. 12 Reconnect the modulator wiring plugs.

13 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Electronic control unit Removal 14 The control unit is mounted on the side of the hydraulic modulator unit. 15 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). 16 Disconnect the two wiring connectors from the control unit. 17 Remove the four securing screws, and withdraw the controi unit from the hydraulic modulator unit (see illustration). Refitting 18 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Wheel sensor Note: Thread-locking compound must be applied to the sensor stud on refitting. Removal 19 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual). 20 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’). If desired, remove the appropriate front roadwheel to improve access. 21 Follow the wiring back from the sensor, and separate the two halves of the wiring connector. Release the wiring from the

- securing clips, noting its routing. 22 Unscrew the securing nut, and withdraw the shield from the sensor. 23 Unscrew the stud, and withdraw the sensor from the swivel hub (see illustration). Refitting 24 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the mating faces of the sensor and the swivel hub are clean, and apply a little grease to the swivel hub bore before » refitting. b) Ensure that the end face of the sensor is clean.

23.5 Bendix ABS hydraulic modulator mounting details

1 Modulator assembly 2

Mounting bracket

3 Bracket fixings c) Apply thread-locking compound to the threads of the sensor securing stud, and tighten to the specified torque. d) Ensure that the sensor wiring is routed as noted before removal.

Bosch 4-wheel ABS Modulator assembly

-

Note: Before starting, refer to the note in Section 2 on the dangers of hydraulic fluid. Removal 25 Proceed as described previously in this Section for the Bendix ABS modulator assembly, but note that it will be necessary to unclip the control unit cover for access to the wiring plugs (see illustration).

Electronic control unit Removal 26 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to “Disconnecting the battery” in the Reference Section of this manual), then unclip

23.23 Slacken and remove the stud and remove the sensor from the swivel hub

9e20

Braking system

enone

Ai i

ts

=

23.25 Disconnecting a Bosch ABS modulator assembly wiring plug the control unit cover from the top of the modulator assembly. 27 Unplug the three wiring connectors from the control unit, then slacken and remove the

six Torx screws, and lift the control unit away from the modulator assembly (see illustration). Refitting 28 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure that the wiring connectors are securely reconnected, and do not overtighten the retaining screws. Front wheel sensor

29 Proceed as described previously in this Section for the Bendix system wheel sensor.

’ Rear wheel sensor Note: Thread-locking compound must be applied to the sensor stud on refitting. Removal 30 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support’).

Remove the appropriate roadwheel.

(arrowed)

Relays 35 Both the solenoid relay and return pump relay are located on the top of the electronic control unit, which is mounted on the modulator block assembly. To gain access to the relays, unclip the control unit cover from the top of the modulator assembly. Either relay can then be simply pulled out of position (see illustration). Refer to Chapter 12 for ’ further information on relays.

Refitting Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing

in mind the following points: a) The mating faces of the sensor and the trailing arm must be clean. Apply grease to the trailing arm bore before refitting. b) Ensure the end face of the sensor is clean. _c) Apply thread-locking compound to the threads of the sensor securing bolt, and tighten to the specified torque. d) Ensure that the sensor wiring is routed as noted before removal.

ae

23.33

Bosch ABS electronic control unit securing screws

31 Trace the wiring back from the sensor to its wiring connector, then free the connector from its retaining clip, and disconnect the wiring from the main wiring loom. 32 Work back along the sensor wiring, and free it from any relevant retaining clips. 33 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the sensor unit to the trailing arm, and remove the sensor and lead assembly (see illustration).

34

\

23.27

Remove the securing bolt and remove the rear wheel sensor - Bosch ABS

24 Vacuum pump (Diesel engine models) removal and refitting.

Hi

Removal .Note: New O-rings must be used on refitting. 1 If necessary, to improve access remove the intercooler as described in Chapter 4D. 2 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the vacuum hose from the pump.

i 23.35 Removing a Bosch ABS relay

oa

4)

sy

Braking system 9e21

24.4a

Fit new O-rings (arrowed) to the pump recesses...

24.4b. . then refit it the pumpTe the cylinder head, ensuring the drive dog}is correctly aligned with the camshaft slot (arrowed)

3 Slacken and remove the three bolts and washers securing the pump to the left-hand

7 Where applicable, refit the intercooler as described in Chapter 4D.

end of the cylinder head, then remove the pump, along with its two O-rings. Discard the O-rings - new ones must be used on refitting.

Refitting

.

4 Fit new O-rings to the pump recesses, then align the drive dog with the slot in the end of the camshaft,

and

refit the

pump

to the

cylinder head, ensuring that the O-rings remain correctly seated (see illustrations). ' 5 Refit the pump mounting bolts and washers, and tighten them securely. 6 Reconnect the vacuum hose to the pump, and tighten its securing clip.

25 Vacuum pump (Diesel engine iriadele) = testing and overhaul

EN Ww! NY

3 Start the engine and allow it to idle, then measure the vacuum created by the pump. As a guide, after one minute, a minimum of approximately 500 mm Hg _ should be recorded. If the vacuum registered is significantly les& than this, it is likely that the pump is faulty. However, seek the advice of a ‘Peugeot dealer before condemning the

pump.

Testing 1 The operation of the braking system vacuum pump can be checked using a vacuum gauge. 2 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the pump, and connect the gauge to the pump union using a suitable length of hose.

Overhaul 4 Overhaul of the vacuum pump.is not. possible, since no components are available separately for it. If faulty, the complete pump

assembly must be renewed.

1001

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering Contents BE COMtunuD Dearngs:— renewal ajoas\.. casera ps bss sow ienis eases cee one 3 Front suspension and steering check ......... See Chapter 1Aor1B Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting ...........0. 8 Front suspension anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and Teoetn wae ant a en ener ten a tarts Gags tags. Gyn otataie oo J 9 Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting ..... 6 Front suspension lower arm balljoint - removal and refitting ...... 7 Front suspension Strut —OVEMAaUl ce. os osc ta dates mene ee wees 5 Front suspension strut - removal and refitting ................. 4 Front suspension subframe - removal and refitting.............. 10 Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting .............. 2. SMH callITITORIMMALIOMN cet sc cs eee Sy ects GyeNaaiais viele Synikie s,see 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting....... 19... Power steering fluid level check .............. See “Weekly checks” Power steering pump - removal and refitting .................. 23 Power steering pump drivebelt check, adjustment M UCU HOW lit renaptcase anthe athchaby atitauk + shavings she >» See Chapter 1A or 1B

Power steering system - bleeding ...... Se Te Ryu mR 22 Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting .................... 15 Rear hub assembly - removal and refitting ..................-. 11 Rear hub, beanngsi= renewal jis, tanga m sceep 2m nihadeswinins andllbetete atonal 12 Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting ............ 14 Rear suspension components - general ..............-00ee00e 13 Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting ............. 18 Steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ......... 20° Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal .............. eee eee ee 21 Steering wheel - removal and refitting ..............00.ee eee ee 17 “Track rod,- removal.and tefitting)< os. si % nstetetniae wewleeeaeee 25 Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting ...............00-00- 24 Vehicle ride height = checking... satiate. cts wwe obercleyale arenas 16 Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information ....... 26 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre DHrOSSUIG CHECKS Uc. «scrause cai atal ate sean: See “Weekly checks”

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for

X | Fairly easy, suitable

< | Fairly difficult,

novice with little experience

EN for beginner with x some experience

EN suitable for competent »

;

x

\ | Difficult, suitable for

~

DIY mechanic

experienced DIY mechanic

S

Very difficult, .

|

suitable for expert DIY

~

or professional

Specifications - Steering BOWEL STSOTINGMIUIGNLV OO,

. fon i tctoiemiceterela tes shee ler talecaly oie oun..4)sam ar

See “Weekly checks”

Wheel alignment and steering angles Front wheel toe setting: MEWEN GUESTCL AR eed Ghat ORs Ae OI eee PAWONFTASSISIECISTOSIOGmcpsrcmr oes) ecto ceitis m/s Siti, wie ore goat a'e:a ere,aloe

1.0 + 0.5 mm (0°10’) toe-out 1.0 + 0.5 mm (0°10’) toe-in

Roadwheels RGRES ete cn oe ae A ER Ay HR MNAAMITHUTnUNH-OUL AL NIM Maximum eccentricity on

0)toric sae ace solace io ESRC nae Cee ea Teter Arne SIMMS BITS cla dnale ghee lateness se ead aen ee wheeler a ceiptt yoink wine tie tyre bead locating surface: ..............

Pressed-steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model) 5B x 13, 5.5B x 13 or 5.5Jd x 14 (depending on model)

1.2mm 0.8 mm

10¢2

Suspension and steering

Torque wrench settings

Nm

Front suspension

Anti-roll bar: Mounting Clamp sDOlts).jalate sacs winnie hahha cist a)oe ahplate milan a aeieirar atems Gonnecting. link SECUTING, MUTS) S++ 4 aa eksntyes 9 ib sumed S wokiw sa sane Lowerarn,balljoint clamp bOltini. enn setiemic sad hain kane eeen na weiyie

Lower arm: balljoint retaining MUtS:i ni < sie ciex cals ok amends olauehe unum Lowecarm ont PIVOL-DOlte ncvcxemtae oie cvulareistn sas WOM TcuRGe penta meteyiate

55 40 40 50 75

Lower arm rear pivot bush mounting bolts: Cola ANEOf0]Linsate gees, Mee eM iene rar CaecUn eR RL, re RT Ure CST OIE: 5 Se acea,thescota a wah raitn late k AMS cout chMemtanwe tan eRe Can

27 55

St MUA POR MOUNTING DOS ernie, daeuniiei core’ pani ghee patanerela alteturin Strtiupper mounting retaining mutiny raw © wee angus gesvare, aie souls @haiietnng Strut-to-swivel hub bolt (see text in Section 2):

20 45

DM CATG: SMAVOL MUD coax aosunstais ee, dlelcieieS a a)apeteets Riot eero ey MOGINEG:SWIVOl UND ic eee oe le hiteluue ong attabhtersht-sats Mella piesicaa tole Suseeet SU PANLeTMOUNCING DONS, itn ce | divs giu-cmbaredeaen & a aca aipeeatra alyk eae

55 45 85

Rear suspension Rear axle mountings:

Eronbmounting=to-DoOdy MUtS sai. cr sleds aca uistiely latetietordinates FREE ITOUII TET ANUS See anh cs sec) lat niesae ons. th paella als ualyagaieeea mea Rear hub nut:: Models with rear drum brakes:

55 45

All except models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van

models peegestha) ts ch a ndadts, cee ah Biacs eet, ataahs ee al ae Models with Bendix rear brakes and ABS, and Van models ..... Modeis:withirear:disc:brakes 27.8 diet ee cee waists Shock absorber.lower:mounting bolt |

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all operating conditions. When the battery is disconnected, these settings are lost and the ECU reverts to the base settings programmed into its memory at the factory. On restarting, this may lead to the engine running/idling roughly for a short while, until the ECU has re-learned the optimum settings. This process is best accomplished by taking the vehicle on a

road test (for approximately 15 minutes), covering all engine speeds and loads, concentrating mainly in the 2,500 to 3,500

rpm region.

—

Devices known as ‘memory-savers’ (or “code-savers’) can be used to avoid some of the above problems. Precise details vary according to the device used. Typically, it is plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is connected by its own wires to a spare battery; the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected from the electrical system, leaving the “memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to maintain audio unit security codes and any other memory values, and also to run permanently-live circuits such as the clock. Warning: Some of these devices A allow a considerable amount of current to pass, which can mean that many of the vehicle’s systems are still operational when the main battery is disconnected. If a “memory saver” is used,

ensure that the circuit concerned is actually “dead” before carrying out any work on it!

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reres TOOIS and working facilities ’ Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and confine themselves to the simpler jobs around the

*

vehicle.

Then,

as

confidence

and

experience grow, more difficult tasks can be undertaken, with extra tools being purchased as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over: a considerable period of time, without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures, and will add tools from the Special category when it is

. felt that the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and : minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners: (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than openended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

(1)

Combination spanners:

[J

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)

L] »Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) petrol models L] Spark plug gap adjustment tool petrol models “ LSet of feeler gauges L] Brake bleed nipple spanner

L]

Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia. Torx - various sizes (not all vehicles) Combination pliers Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Oil can Oil filter removal tool Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size) Ng Ny Ws Sump drain plug key (not all vehicles)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive, they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the halfinch square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. The tools in this list will sometimes need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list: Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list (including Torx sockets) Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Flexible handle or sliding T “breaker bar” (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Self-locking grips Ball pein hammer Soft-faced mallet (plastic or rubber) Screwdrivers: Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), and narrow (electrician’s) types Cross blade - long & sturdy, and short (chubby) types Sb SoC CEES O Pliers: Ed Long-nosed Side cutters (electrician’s) © Circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - 25 mm Scriber

Scraper

on

~

|

:

.

Centre-punch Pin punch

Hacksaw Brake hose clamp Brake/clutch bleeding kit Selection of twist drills Steel rule/straight-edge

Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) Selection of files i

Wire brush Axle stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

oS

iS

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Light with extension lead Universal electrical multi-meter OOOOOOO0OO000000000

a

om

Torx key, socket and bit

Hose clamp

‘Tools and working facilities rer-7 Special tools

Buying tools

Working facilities

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. It is worth noting that many of the larger DIY superstores now carry a large range of special tools for hire at modest

Reputable motor accessory shops and superstores often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, a suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an ownermechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. ' Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a

rates.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on-market stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance

of tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is The following list contains only those tools necessary to keep the tools in a clean and and instruments freely available to the public, serviceable condition. After use, always wipe and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer . off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. network. You will find occasional references Never leave them lying around after they have to these manufacturers’ special tools in the been used. A simple tool rack on the garage text of this manual. Generally, an alternative or workshop wall for items such as method of coing the job without the vehicle screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, all normal spanners and sockets in a metal sometimes there is no alternative to using box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, them. Where this is the case and the relevant meters, etc, must be carefully stored where tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will they cannot be damaged or become rusty. have to entrust the work to a dealer. 3 Take a little care when tools are used. Angular-tightening gauge Hammer heads inevitably become marked, Valve spring compressor and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their Valve grinding tool blades from time to time. A little timely Piston ring compressor attention with emery cloth or a file will soon Piston ring removal/installation tool restore items like this to a good finish. Cylinder bore hone Balljoint separator Coil spring compressors (where applicable) Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier calipers Dial gauge ; Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Fault code reader Cylinder compression gauge ‘Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge ‘Clutch plate alignment set Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool Bush and bearing removal/installation set Stud extractors Micrometers Tap and die set Lifting tackle SBe ODOOBROBORDeBOOOoaO HOOTrolley jack

jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously; some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as

well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints etc, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8 mm. This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Fault code reader

reres MOT test checks This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the vehicle for the test. Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such

discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may

be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is scruffy and apparently neglected. It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here, based on the regulations in force at.the time of printing. Test standards

are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some exemptions for older vehicles.

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks. The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

1 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE GROUND

3 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN

4 Checks carried out on YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEM

1 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Handbrake (J Test the operation of the handbrake. Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates incorrect brake or cable adjustment. (1 Check that the handbrake cannot be released by tapping the lever sideways. Check the security of the lever mountings. 1 Check that the brake pedal is secure and in good condition. Check also for signs of fluid leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which would indicate failed seals in the brake master cylinder. (-] Check the servo unit (when applicable) by

operating the brake pedal several times, then keeping the pedal depressed and starting the engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or the servo itself may be faulty.

movement of the steering wheel, indicating wear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen, mirrors and sunvisor (| The windscreen must be free of cracks or other significant damage within the driver’s field of view. (Small stone chips are acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted. cd

Steering wheel and column Footbrake C] Depress the brake pedal and check that it does not creep down to the floor, indicating a master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait a few seconds, then depress it again. If the pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is air in the hydraulic system which must be removed by bleeding.

L] Examine the steering wheel for fractures or looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.

_] Move the steering wheel from side to side and

then

up and

down.

Check

that the

steering wheel is not loose on,the column, indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.

Continue moving the steering wheel as before, but also turn it slightly from left to right. L] Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column, and that there is no abnormal

Cl The driver’s sunvisor must be capable of being stored in the “up” position. —

MOT test checks rereg Electrical equipment L] Switch” on-the ignition and check the operation of the horn. L] Check the windscreen washers and wipers, examining the wiper blades; renew damaged or perished blades. Also check the operation of the-stop-lights.

C] Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any part of the steering or suspension mechanism. With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable to all seat belts, front and rear.

LJ Examine

the webbing

of all the belts

(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten -L] Check the operation of the sidelights and each belt to check the buckles. If applicable, . number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors ‘check the retracting mechanism. Check the must be secure, clean and undamaged. security of all seat belt mountings accessible (J Check the operation and alignment of the from inside the vehicle. headlights. The headlight reflectors must not [] Seat belts with pre-tensioners, once be tarnished and the lenses must be activated, have a “flag” or similar showing on undamaged. the seat belt stalk. This, in itself, is not a L] Switch on the ignition and check the reason for test failure. operation of the direction indicators (including []The front seats themselves must be the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard securely attached and the backrests must warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and lock in the upright position. stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it

Doors (J Both front doors must be able to be opened and closed from outside and inside, and must latch securely when closed.

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE |

__ GROUND

Vehicle identification (J Number plates must be in good condition, secure and legible, with letters and numbers correctly spaced — spacing at (A) should be at least twice that at (B).

Cl The VIN plate and/or homologation plate must be legible.

does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the rear light cluster. LJ Check the operation of the rear foglight(s), including the warning light on the instrument panel or in the switch. LJ The ABS warning light must illuminate in accordance with the manufacturers’ design. For most vehicles, the ABS warning light

should illuminate when the ignition is switched on, and (if the system is operating properly) extinguish after a few seconds. Refer to the owner’s handbook.

Steering and suspension L] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side slightly, up to the point where the steering gear just begins to transmit this movement to the roadwheels. Check for excessive free play between the steering wheel andthe steering gear, indicating wear or insecurity of the steering column joints, the column-to-steering gear coupling, or the steering gear itself. C] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel more vigorously in each direction, so that the roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done, examine all the steering joints, linkages, fittings and attachments. Renew any component that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering, check the security and condition of the steering pump, drivebelt and hoses. _] Check that the vehicle is standing level, and at approximately the correct ride height.

Footbrake (J Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

C The fluid reservoir must be secure and the fluid level must be between the upper (A) and lower (B) markings. :

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2

te

Shock absorbers (J Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn, then release it. The vehicle should rise and then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle ‘continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber is defective. A shock absorber which has seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

Stel MOT

test checks

Exhaust system [1] Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the entire system for leaks. Repair or renew leaking sections.

Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and rock gently but firmly. Check for free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings, suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments.

(1 Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and ‘6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for roughness or tightness of the front wheel bearing.

_] The same general checks apply to vehicles fitted with other suspension types, such as torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc. Ensure that all mountings and attachments are secure, that there are no signs of excessive wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged pipes.

] Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the

mounting bushes or attachments, or damage to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts (fwd vehicles only) (_) Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or damage. Also check that each driveshaft is straight and undamaged.

3 Checks carried out - WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands. Position the stands clear of the suspension assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are

clear of the ground and that the steering can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

Ll If excess free play is suspected at a component pivot point, this can be confirmed by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and levering between the mounting and the component attachment. This will confirm whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt holes can often become elongated).

_] Have your assistant turn the steering from lock to lock. Check that the steering turns smoothly, and that no part of the steering mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body

Braking system LI If possible without dismantling, check brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure that the friction lining material has not worn excessively, (A) and that the discs are not fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

structure.

L] Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips. If power steering is fitted, check for signs of damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or connections. Also check for excessive stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion of the body structure within 30 cm of any steering component attachment point.

_] Carry out all the above checks at the other front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers L] Examine the suspension struts (when applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion, or damage to the casing. Also check the security of the mounting points.

LJ If coil springs are fitted, check that the spring ends locate in their seats, and that the spring is not corroded, cracked or broken. LI If leaf springs are fitted, check that all leaves are intact, that the axle is securely attached to each spring, and that there is no deterioration of the spring eye mountings, bushes, and shackles.

L] Examine

all

the

rigid

brake

pipes

underneath the vehicle, and the flexible hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing “or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or deterioration of the flexible hoses. _] Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or renew leaking components:

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spin

each

wheel,

while

your

assistant depresses and releases the footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating ~ and does not bind when the pedal is released.

]

ees =

MOT test checks sere

eo [J Examine the handbrake mechanism, checking for frayed or broken cables, excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of the linkage. Check that the mechanism works on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,

Body corrosion [1 Check the condition of the entire vehicle

structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing areas. (These include chassis box sections, _ side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all without binding. suspension, steering, braking system and C1 It is not possible to test brake efficiency seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any without special equipment, but a road test can © corrosion which has seriously reduced the be carried out later to check that the vehicle thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to pulls up ina straight line. cause the vehicle to fail. In this case professional repairs are likely to be needed. L] Damage or corrosion which causes sharp Fuel and exhaust systems or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed L] Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler will also cause the vehicle to fail. cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All components must be secure and free from leaks. [_] Examine the exhaust system over its entire 4 Checks carried out on length, checking for any damaged, broken or YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST missing mountings, security of the retaining EMISSION SYSTEM clamps and rust or corrosion.

Petrol models [] Have the engine at normal operating temperature, and make sure that it is in good tune (ignition system in good order, air filter

element clean, etc).

Wheels and tyres LJ Examine the sidewalls and tread area of each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps, bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure of the ply or cord due to wear or damage. Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and properly seated, and that the wheel is not distorted or damaged. LJ Check that the tyres are of the correct size for the vehicle, that they are of the same size and type on each axle, and that the pressures are correct. 1] Check the tyre tread depth. The legal minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over at least three-quarters of the tread width. Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect front wheel alignment.

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_] Before any measurements are carried out, raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm, and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and watch for smoke emissions from the exhaust tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt (engine wear) while black smoke signifies unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other carburettoror fuel system fault). [1 An exhaust gas analyser capable. of measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an _ instrument cannot be hired or borrowed,

a

local garage may agree to perform the check for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture) LD At the time of writing, for vehicles first used

between 1st August 1975 and 31st July 1986 (P to C registration), the CO level must not exceed 4.5% by volume. For vehicles first used between 1st August 1986 and 31st July 1992 (D to J registration), the CO level must not exceed 3.5% by volume. Vehicles first

used after 1st August 1992 (K registration) must conform to the manufacturer’s specification. The MOT tester has access to a DOT database or emissions handbook, which lists the CO and HC limits for each make and model of vehicle. The CO level is measured with the engine at idle speed, and at “fast idle”. The following limits are given as a general guide: At idle speed CO level no more than 0.5% At “fast idle” (2500 to 3000 rpm) CO level no more than 0.3% (Minimum oil temperature 60°C) [J lf the CO level cannot be reduced far enough to pass the test (and the fuel and ignition systems are otherwise in good condition) then the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some problem in the fuel injection system or catalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissions [] With the CO within limits, HC emissions for vehicles first used between 1st August 1975 and 31st July 1992 (P to J registration) must not exceed 1200 ppm. Vehicles first used after 1st August 1992 (K registration) must conform to the manufacturer’s specification. The MOT tester has access to a DOT database or emissions handbook, which lists ° the CO and HC limits for each make and model of vehicle. The HC level is measured with the engine at “fast idle”. The following is given as a general guide: At “fast idle” (2500 to 3000 rpm) HC level no more than 200 ppm (Minimum oil temperature 60°C)

(] Excessive HC emissions are caused by incomplete combustion, the causes of which can include oil being burnt, mechanical wear and ignition/fuel system malfunction.

Diesel models _] The only emission test applicable to Diesel engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke density. The test involves accelerating the engine several unloaded speed.

times

to

its

maximum

Note: /t is of the utmost importance that the engine timing belt is in good condition before the test is carried out.

(The limits for Diesel engine exhaust smoke, introduced in September 1995 are: Vehicles first used before 1st August 1979: Exempt from metered smoke testing, but must not emit “dense blue or clearly visible black smoke for a period of more than 5 seconds at idle” or “dense blue or clearly visible black smoke during acceleration which would obscure the view of other road users”. Non-turbocharged vehicles first used after 1st August 1979: 2.5m-1 Turbocharged vehicles first used after 1st August 1979: 3.0m~1 L] Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional advice may be needed to find the cause.

rerei2 Fault finding Engine

Automatic transmission

6

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

|_|

|]

Engine rotates, but will not start’ Engine difficult to start when cold Engine difficult to start when hot

[_} General gear selection problems -] Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) on full throttle

(|

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement

'

__|

Engine starts, but stops immediately

ON

[]

Fluid leakage

[] Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

Engine won't start in any gear, or starts in gears other than “P

-}

|] Engine misfires at idle speed U me Wie ap cpl the driving speed range

forward or reverse gears Driveshafts

= -]

Engine ati arena Engine lacks power

tiah

|

Ae

His

;

nage

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in

|_| Engine idles erratically

PS

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock) Vibration when accelerating SF decelerating

[] Engine backfires

Braking system

UL] Oil pressure warning light on with engine running

[]

L Engine runs-on after switching off L]_ Engine noises

[] Noise Qgrinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied [| Excessive brake pedal travel

Cooling system

|] Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

L :

: Overheating Overcooling

[| Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle (} Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking aid Brakes binding

L] External coolant leakage

([]

Internal coolant leakage

ver and vetibedergl ayes

braking

LD Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system Clutch BS :

(] Wandering or general instability [| Excessively-stiff steering . (] Excessive play in steering

:

(_] Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance [-] Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) -L] Clutch slips fongine speed rises, with no increase in vehicle

[] Lack of power assistance [] Tyre wear excessive 3

speed)

Electrical system

L] Judder as clutch is engaged

L

Difficulty engaging gears ;

[_] Lubricant leaks

;

10

[] Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

_(} Jumps out of gear LC) Vibration

9

[] Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during

(J Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

(Noisy in neutral with engine running LU Noisy in one particular gear

‘

[_] Wheel wobble and vibration

LJ Excessive fuel consumption

Manual transmission

Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systems [] Vehicle pulls to one side

[] Corrosion Ee

1 Le

8

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

5

L] _]

Fi

Ignition/no-charge warning light stays on with engine running Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on

ehteineperiwe’

2

L] Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic (_] Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

() Windscreen/tailgate wipers failed, or unsatisfactory in operation L] Windscreen/tailgate washers failed, or unsatisfactory in operation ‘L] Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation (|

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.

Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands. of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often

small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. This may be obvious, but some detective work may be necessary. The-owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments’ or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault - power loss, high

or low gauge readings, unusual smells, etc and remember - failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers

to some underlying fault. The pages which follow provide an easyreference guide to the ‘more common problems which may occur during the operation of the vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic lati das apply. These are as follows:

Fault finding rerei3 Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly

important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may not have described it very accurately. Dan’t overlook the obvious. For example, if

the vehicle won’t start, is there fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look

for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the

new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a. new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be

established and corrected. Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a “new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

1 Engine Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start [] L] (|

|_| || _]

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly Checks”). Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5A). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapter 5A). Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5A). Defective starter motor (Chapter 5A). Starter pinion oriflywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapters 2A, 2B, 2C and 5A). Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5A).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement O Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapters 2A, 2B, 2C and 5A).

CL] Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5A). L Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5A). Engine starts, but stops immediately

Engine rotates, but will not start L] Fuel tank empty. (] |] [1 L]

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5A). Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly Checks”). Ignition components damp or damaged - petrol models (Chapters 1A and 5B). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit - petrol

_] |]

models (Chapters 1A and 5B). [|

[] []

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petro! models (Chapter 1A). Preheating system faulty - Diesel models (Chapter 5C). Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). —

_] Faulty fuel cut-off solenoid -carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). [| Fuel injection system fault-fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B

[]

or 4C). Stop solenoid faulty- Diesel models (Chapter 4D). Air in fuel system - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

Aes

[]

Battery discharged (Chapter 5A). Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly Checks”). ] Worn, faulty or incorrectly- gapped spark plugs- petrol models (Chapter 1A). [] Preheating system faulty - Diesel models (Chapter 5C). [] Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). [] Other ignition system fault -petrol models (Chapters 1A and 5B). [] Fast idle valve incorrectly adjusted - Diesel models (Chapter 4D). [J Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C).

Engine difficult to start when hot Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B). Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Fuel injection ata fault -fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Low cylinder compressions enapis a 2B or+ 20). eile

-

Engine idles erratically L] Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B). ] Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). ] Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models

LJ [_] _] []

[] Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2A, 2 2B or 2C).

Engine difficult to start when cold

Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit - petrol models (Chapters 1A and 5B). Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body or inlet manifold petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol — models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

(Chapter 1A). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Timing belt incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol

models (Chapter 4A). [|]

|]

Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol

models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

Engine misfires at idle speed O Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models O C

O OG

(Chapter 1A). Faulty spark plug HT leads - petrol models (Chapter 1A). Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D). Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally - petrol models (where applicable) (Chapter 1A). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

(Chapter 4E).

rerei4 Fault finding - Engine (continued) Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range

|

Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1A or 1B). Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models (Chapter 1A). Faulty spark plug HT leads - petrol models (Chapter 1A). Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally - petrol models Pai)

O

(where applicable) (Chapter 1A). Faulty ignition coil - petrol models (Chapter 5B). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages- carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault-fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

Engine backfires [] Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A). [-} Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses- petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). (| Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages- ada petrol

models (Chapter 4A). (-]

O

(Chapter 1A). Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol

Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (“Weekly Checks”). Faulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 5A). Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2D). High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3). IOOOO Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C).

Engine runs-on after switching off Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2D). High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Faulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Faulty stop solenoid - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

Engine noises

models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault - petrol models (Chapters 1A and 5B). Incorrect grade of spark plug - petrol models (Chapter 1A). Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1A or 1B).

gine stalls “Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).

LJ Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or

Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1A or 1B).

O

Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D). ‘ Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

Engine lacks power Timing belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1A or 1B). Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A, 4B, or 4C). Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models (Chapter 1A). Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petrol

models (Chapter 4A).

|]

\

associated hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2D). Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor petro! models (Chapter 4A). Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

Whistling or wheezing noises | | Leaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket - petrol models (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C). [| Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint (Chapter 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D). (] Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D, 5B and 9). ‘{) Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B and 2C).

Tapping or rattling noises Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3, 5A, etc).

nocking or thumping noises

Ne ITS) leeWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) (Chapter 2D). Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening

:

Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D). Injection pump timing incorrect - Diesel models (Chapter 4D). Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9). eo Seria er Clutch slipping (Chapter 6). Sa

.

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or under load

Faulty injector(s) - Diesel models (Chapter 4D).

En

sei petrol

Oil pressure warning light on with engine running

Engine hesitates on acceleration rics Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs- petrol models

(

Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault - Beet models (Chapter 4B or 4C).

|]

under load) (Chapter 2D). Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2D). Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3, 5A, etc).

.

Fault finding rere1s 2 Cooling system Overheating

|]

External coolant leakage

Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly Checks”). Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3). Electric cooling fan or thermoswitch faulty (Chapter 3). Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3). Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault - petrol models (Chapters 1A and 5B). Inaccurate temperature gauge sender-unit (Chapter 3). Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 4A or 1B).

Overcooling

|

Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1A or 1B). Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3). Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3). Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3). Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3). Core plug leaking (Chapter 2C).

Internal coolant leakage Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C).

Corrosion

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).

Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1A or 1B). Incorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1A or 1B and “Weekly Checks”).

3 Fuel and exhaust systems Excessive fuel consumption. Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B). Choke cable incorrectly adjusted, or choke sticking - carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A). Fuel injection system fault - fuel injected petrol models (Chapter 4B or 4C). Faulty injector(s) - Diesel. models (Chapter 4D). Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault - petrol. models (Chapters 1 and 5B). Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly Checks”). Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9). x

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D). [_] Carburettor float chamber flooding (float height incorrect) carburettor petrol models (Chapter 4A).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system []

Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D). Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1

and 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D). [_] Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 1A or 1B).

4 Clutch Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little

resistance

Broken clutch cable (Chapter 6). Incorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6). Broken clutch release bearing or fork (Chapter 6). Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

lutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears) 190Incorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6). Clutch disc sticking on gearbox input shaft splines (Chapter 6). Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6). - Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6). pets)Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).

Clutch slips (engine speed rises, with no increase in vehicle speed)

a|

Incorrect clutch cable adjustment (Chapter 6). Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6). Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6). Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engaged []

Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6). Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6). Clutch cable sticking or frayed (Chapter 6). (] Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6). — Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C). [] Clutch disc hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6). Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6). Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6). Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6). Cl Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

reFeie Fault finding 5 Manual transmission Noisy in neutral with engine running Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A).* Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Jumps out of gear [|

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A). Incorrectly-adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A). Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).* Worn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*

Vibration Noisy in one particular gear

Lack of oil (Chapter 1A or 1B). Worn bearings (Chapter 7A).”

[|] Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).”

ubricant leaks

Difficulty engaging gears

Leaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7A). ‘Se|meeet G|

Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).* Leaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A).*

[] Clutch fault (Chapter 6). _] [| L]

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A). Incorrectly-adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A). Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*

*Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

6 Automatic transmission Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Don’t be in a hurry to remove the transmission if a fault is suspected, as most testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.

Fluid leakage {] Automatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown . onto the transmission by airflow. (_] To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The following are common areas of leakage: a) Fluid pan or “sump” (Chapter 1 and 7B). b) Dipstick tube (Chapter 1 and 7B).

c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell (] Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1A or 1B).

_ General gear selection problems -({]

Chapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable

on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable: a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. b) Indicator panel showing a gear other than that being used. Cc) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral. E d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes. (] Refer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) at full throttle [] (]

Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1A or 1B). Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

Engine won’t start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park or Neutral [] L]

Incorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B). Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in forward or reverse gears [] There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter. If the problem persists, professional help-will be necessary.

7 Driveshafts Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock) (1

Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged gaiter (Chapter 8). (J Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating (] Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8). L] Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

Fault finding i , 8 Braking system Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel

alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system should be referred to a Peugeot dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

z=

Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated brake pads/shoes on one side (Chapters 1 and 9). Seized or partially-seized front brake caliper/wheel cylinder piston (Chapters 1 and 9). A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides (Chapters 1 and 9). Brake caliper or backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). Worn or damaged Steering or suspension components (Chapters 1 and 10). :

Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal backing (Chapters 1 and 9). Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum. May be apparent after the vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9). Foreign object (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc and shield (Chapters 1 and 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle O Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9). Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose

(Chapter 9). Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9). Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9). Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapters 1 and 9). Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted (Chapters 1 and 9). Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapters 1 and 9).

Excessive run-out or distortion of discs/drums (Chapters 1 and 9). Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9). Brake caliper or brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings (Chapters 1 and 10).

Brakes binding Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal travel

O

0)

Air in hydraulic system (Chapters 1 and 9). Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9). Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9). Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied

z

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

[]

Inoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism - drum SreKas (Chapters 1 and 9). Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9). Air in hydraulic system (Chapters 1 and 9). Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).

Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9). Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal braking Rear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapters 1 and 9). |_|] Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

9 Suspension and steering Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or binding brakes.

Wandering or general instability Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components (Chapters 1 and 10). Roadwheels out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10). Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly Checks”). Wheel bolts loose (Chapters 1 and 10). Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).

Vehicle pulls to one side O Defective tyre (“Weekly Checks”). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1 and 10). Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). Damage to steering or suspension components (Chapter 1).

Excessively-stiff steering

heel wobble and vibration

Front osoo

roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the steering wheel) (Chapters 1 and 10). Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the vehicle) (Chapters 1 and 10). Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapters 1 and 10). Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly Checks”). Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components (Chapters 1 and 10). Wheel bolts loose (Chapters 1 and 10). we a a a

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,

or during braking »

C] Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10). CL] Broken or weak spring and/or suspension part (Chapters 1 and 10). (] Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10).

v ”

0

Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10). Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1 and 10). . Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt - power steering (Chapter 1). Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Excessive play in steering 0 Worn steering column intermediate

=

shaft universal joint (Chapter 10). Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10). Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10). Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components (Chapters 1 and 10).

reFeia Fault finding Suspension and steering (continued) Lack of power assistance

Tyres worn on inside or outside edges

[_] Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1). [_] Incorrect power steering fluid level (“Weekly Checks”). Restriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 1A or 1B). [| Faulty power steering pump (Chapter 10). |} Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

C]

Tyre wear excessive Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of tread _]

Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly Checks”).

[] (]

Incorrect camber/castor angles (wear on one edge only) (Chapter 10). Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components (Chapters 1 and 10). Excessively-hard cornering.

(1) Accident damage. Tyres worn unevenly (] Tyres/wheels out of balance (“Weekly Checks”). [|] Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1). [-] Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).

[| Faulty tyre (“Weekly Checks”).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edges |] Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly Checks”).

10 Electrical system Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum reading

Battery won’t hold a charge for more than a few days

(_] ‘Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4A, 4B, 4C and 4D). Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12). ‘ea | Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

| Battery defective internally (Chapter 5A). |] Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (“Weekly Checks”). (] Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1A or 1B). » [) Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5A). L] Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5A). [J Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5A and 12).

Ignition/no-charge warning light stays on with ’ engine running O Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1A or 1B). Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5A). FEE Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5A). Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5A). CJ Broken, disconnected, or loose Se in charging circuit (Chapter 5A).

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on L] Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12). [| Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit (Chapter 12). (| Alternator faulty (Chapter 5A).

Lights inoperative Bulb blown (Chapter 12). Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12). Blown fuse (Chapter 12). Faulty relay (Chapter 12). Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12). Faulty switch (Chapter 12). Ee

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic Instrument readings increase with engine speed (] Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading |]

Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4A, 4B, 4C or 4D).

|] Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12). [] Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

.

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation Horn operates all the time C) Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12). (_] Horn cable-to-horn push earthed (Chapter 12).

Horn fails to operate ) Blown fuse (Chapter 12). L] Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12).

L] Faulty horn (Chapter 12). Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound [) Cable connections loose (Chapter 12). LJ

Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).

[] Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers failed, or unsatisfactory in operation Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or maps) (Chapters 1 and 12). Blown fuse (Chapter 12). Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chapter 12). Faulty relay (Chapter 12). em ee ph Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12). ae

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of the glass L] Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1A or 1B). [] Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12). L] Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively L] Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly Checks”). [} Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 12). L] Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road film (“Weekly Checks”).

Fault finding rere19 Electrical system (continued) Windscreen/tailgate washers failed, or unsatisfactory in operation One or more washer jets inoperative

L] Blocked washer jet (Chapter 12). L]

Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).

i Window glass fails to move Blown fuse (Chapter 12). Faulty relay (Chapter 12). Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

pe

LJ

Faulty motor (Chapter 11).

L] Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (“Weekly Checks”). Washer pump fails to operate

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

|]

Complete system failure

Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

[] Blown fuse (Chapter 12). |] {]

Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12). Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted from jets [|] Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation Window glass will only move in one direction (]

Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Window glass slow to move L] ]

Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubricant (Chapter 11). Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).

(] Faulty motor (Chapter 11).

. Blown fuse (Chapter 12). IOI Faulty relay (Chapter 12). Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12). Faulty control unit (Chapter 11).

atch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock wees EY Faulty master switch (Chapter 12).

[] []

Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11). Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

[] Faulty control unit (Chapter 11). One solenoid/motor fails to operate Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12). Faulty solenoid/motor (Chapter 11). Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 11). ; ay ee ad Fault in door latch (Chapter 11).

AY oe aes ar

reFe200 Glossary of technical terms A

Asbestos

ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system, usually electronically controlled, that senses incipient wheel lockup during braking and relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are about to skid. Air bag Ahn inflatable bag hidden in the steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on collision, the bags inflate, preventing the driver and front passenger from being thrown forward into the steering wheel or windscreen. Air cleaner

A metal

or plastic

is a health

hazard

and the dust

created by brake systems should never be inhaled or ingested. Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid beam that connects the two wheels at one end of the vehicle. An axle which also

transmits power to the wheels is Known as a live axle.

Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on either side of the differential, which delivers power from the final drive assembly to the drive wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

housing,

containing a filter element, which removes dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the engine. Air filter element

The actual filter in an air cleaner system, usually manufactured from pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular

intervals.

B Ball bearing An _ anti-friction bearing consisting of a hardened inner and outer race with hardened steel balls between two races. Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or ina bore, or the part assembled into either, that permits relative motion between them with minimum wear and friction. 5

Brake drum The component of a drum brake that rotates with the wheels. Brake linings The friction material which contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or riveted to the brake pads or shoes. Brake pads The replaceable friction pads that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are ‘applied. Brake pads consist of a friction material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing plate. Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to which the brake linings are mounted and which forces the lining against the rotating drum during braking.

Braking systems For more information on braking systems, consult the Haynes Automotive Brake Manual. Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle providing greater leverage. Bulkhead The insulated partition between the engine and the passenger compartment.

Caliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brake assembly that straddles the disc and carries

the brake pads. The caliper also contains the

Air filter

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into a recessed hexagonal hole. Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make temporary electrical connections. : Alternator A component in the electrical system which converts mechanical energy from a drivebelt into electrical energy to charge the battery and to operate the starting system, ignition system and_ electrical accessories. Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the flow of electric current. One amp is the amount of current produced by one volt acting through a resistance of one ohm. Anaerobic sealer A substance used to

Bearing

Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of the connecting rod that’s attached to the crankshaft. Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component that is opened to purge the hydraulic system of air. Also called a bleed screw. Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air from lines of a hydraulic brake system.

hydraulic components that cause the pads to pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set to measure inside or outside dimensions of an object. Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a series of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms. The camshaft may be driven by gears, by sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a belt. Canister A container in an evaporative emission control system; contains activated charcoal granules to trap vapours from the fuel system. :

- prevent bolts and screws from loosening. Anaerobic means that it does not require oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand ‘is widely used. Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene glycol) mixed with water, and added to a vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and the formation of rust and other deposits that would tend to clog the radiator and coolant passages and reduce cooling efficiency. Anti-seize compound A coating that reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that

Canister

are subjected to high temperatures, such as

_ exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. : _ Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great heat

resistance,

- composition

commonly

of brake

used

friction

in the

materials.

Brake bleeding Brake disc The component of a disc brake that rotates with the wheels.

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with air in the proper proportions to provide a desired power output from a spark ignition internal combustion engine. Castellated Resembling the parapets along the top of a castle wall. For example, a castellated balljoint stud nut. Castor In wheel alignment, the backward or

forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is positive when the steering axis is inclined rearward at the top.

Glossary of technical terms reres1 Catalytic converter A silencer-like device in the exhaust-system which converts certain pollutants in the exhaust gases into less harmful substances.

Catalytic converter

D

;

Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine management computer. This code can be used to determine the area in the system where a malfunction may be located. Disc brake A brake design incorporating a rotating disc onto which brake pads are squeezed. The resulting friction converts the energy of a moving vehicle into heat. Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine that uses two overhead camshafts, usually one for the intake valves and one for the exhaust valves. Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to drive accessories such as the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent endwise movement of cylindrical parts and » shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece such as a shaft. Clearance The amount of space between two parts. For example, between a piston and a

Endfloat The amount of lengthwise movement between two parts. As applied to a crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft ,can move forward and back in the cylinder block.

Engine management system (EMS) A computer controlled system which manages the fuel injection and the ignition systems in an integrated fashion.

Exhaust manifold A part with several passages through which exhaust gases leave the engine combustion chambers and enter the exhaust pipe.

i Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling device which permits variable engine fan speeds in relation to engine speeds. ° Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to check or measure clearances between parts.

cylinder, between a bearing and a journal, etc. Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in various. sizes throughout a vehicle, for example as a springing medium in the suspension and in the valve train. Compression Reduction in volume, and

increase in pressure and temperature, of a by squeezing it into a smaller space. Compression ratio The relationship between cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead centre and cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead centre. Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of universal joint that cancels out vibrations caused by driving power being transmitted through an angle. Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal gas, caused

device inserted in a hole in a casting through which core was removed when the casting was formed. Also known as a freeze plug or expansion plug. ‘Crankcase The lower part of the engine block in which the crankshaft rotates. Crankshaft The main rotating member, or shaft, running the length of the crankcase, with offset “throws” to which the connecting rods are attached.

'

Accessory drivebelts

Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit motion. Commonly used when referring to the axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle. Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is pressed, curved brake shoes with friction linings press against the inside of the drum to slow or stop the vehicle.

E

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer

controlled fuel system that distributes fuel through an injector located in each intake port

of the engine. brake

A

braking

system,

independent of the main hydraulic system, that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever

Crankshaft assembly Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

that actuates either front or rear brakes mechanically through a series of cables and linkages.

Firing order The order in which the engine cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes, beginning with the number one cylinder. Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which energy is absorbed and stored by means of momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft to smooth out firing impulses.

EGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaust gases into the intake air stream. Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel injection systems, or an anti-lock braking system. For more information refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual.

Emergency

Feeler blade

Also known parking brake.

as a handbrake

or

Free play The amount of travel before any action takes place. The “looseness” in a linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the initial application of force and actual

movement. For example, the distance the brake pedal moves before the pistons in the master cylinder are actuated. Fuse An electrical device which protects a circuit against accidental overload. The typical fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is calibrated to melt at a predetermined current flow (expressed as amps) and break the circuit. Fusible link A circuit protection device consisting of a conductor surrounded by heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be cut from the wire for replacement.

|

reFe22 Glossary of technical terms x

G Gap The distance the spark must travel in jumping from the centre electrode to the side electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the spacing between the points in a contact breaker assembly in a conventional pointstype ignition, or to the distance between the reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an electronic ignition.

Ignition timing The moment at which the spark plug fires, usually expressed in the

number of crankshaft degrees before the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Inlet manifold A tube or housing with passages through which flows the air-fuel mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-injected vehicles) to the port openings in head. \ the cylinder

J Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle with a discharged or weak battery by attaching jump leads from the weak battery to

a charged or helper battery.

Ly. Adjusting spark plug gap

Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork, cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed between two metal surfaces to ensure a good seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket seals the joint between

the block and the

cylinder head.

Gasket

’ Gauge An instrument panel display used to monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical readout is called a digital gauge.

H

reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the crankshaft. May be incorporated in the crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration » damper.

Hone

An abrasive tool for correcting small

irregularities or differences in diameter in an engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc. Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utilises

hydraulic pressure from the engine’s lubrication system to maintain zero clearance (constant contact with both camshaft and valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also reduce valve noise.

Oxygen

sensor

engine exhaust oxygen content this information called a Lambda

A device

MacPherson strut A type of front suspension system devised by Earle MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar creates the lower control arm. A long sirut _an integral coil spring and shock absorber - is mounted between the body and the steering knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with the capability to measure voltage, current and

N NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines at higher temperatures.

O

in the’

p Phillips screw A type of screw head having a cross instead of a slot for a corresponding type of screwdriver. ; Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread, available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are assembled and dismantled; the width of the crushed strip indicates the clearance between journal and bearing.

Plastigage Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with universal joints at both ends that carries power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.

Proportioning valve A hydraulic control valve which limits the amount of pressure to the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent wheel lock-up.

R Rack-and-pinion

steering A_ steering system with a pinion gear on the end of the steering shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared wheel opened up and laid flat). When the steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns, moving the rack to the left or right. This movement is transmitted through the track rods to the steering arms at the wheels. Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device designed to reduce the temperature of the coolant in an internal combustion engine

cooling system.

Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will produce a current of one amp. Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring electrical resistance.

O-ring

installed

manifold, which senses the in the exhaust and converts into an electric current. Also sensor.

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A brake hydraulic system control valve that works like a proportioning valve, but also takes into consideration the amount of weight carried by the rear axle. Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment nut, or other threaded component, in place. For example, a locknut is employed to keep the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in position. Lockwasher A form of washer designed to prevent an attaching nut from working loose.

resistance.

Halfshaft A rotating shaft that transmits power from the final drive unit to a. drive wheel, usually when referring to a live rear axle. Harmonic balancer A device designed to

Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with the valves located in the cylinder head, but with the camshaft located in the engine block.

A type of sealing ring made of a_

special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring is compressed into a groove to provide the sealing action. Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder head(s).

Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat transfer agent in an air-conditioning system. R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for many years; recently, however, manufacturers have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere. Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaft or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve. engine, the rocker arm converts the upward > movement of the pushrod into a downward movement to open a valve.

Glossary of technical terms rer-23 i

_Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device inside the cap that connects the centre electrode and the outer terminals as it turns, distributing the high voltage from the coil secondary winding to the proper spark plug. Also, that part of an alternator which rotates inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly

» of a turbocharger, including the compressor wheel, shaft and turbine wheel. Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated. The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The out-of-round condition of a rotating part.

S

Sprocket A tooth or projection on the periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a chain or Grivebelt. Commonly used to refer to the sprocket wheel itself. Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an automatic transmission, a switch that prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral or Park. Strut See MacPherson strut.

+

Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in conjunction with a gasket.

Tappet A cylindrical component which transmits motion from the cam to the valve stem, either directly or via a pushrod and Sealed beam lamp An older headlight rocker arm. Also called a cam follower. design which integrates the reflector, lens and . Thermostat A heat-controlled valve that filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece regulates the flow of coolant between the unit. When a filament burns out or the lens cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced. optimum engine operating temperature. A Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in accessory drivebelt that’s used on some which the temperature is regulated. ° newer vehicles to drive all the accessories, Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts. assembly that is moved in to the release levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing. an automatic tensioner. Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the camshaft. Serious engine damage may result if it breaks in service. Timing chain A chain which drives the

camshaft.

Serpentine drivebelt . Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust the clearance or relative positions between two parts. For example, shims inserted into or under bucket tappets contro] valve

clearances. Clearance is adjusted by changing the thickness of the shim. Slide hammer A special puller that screws into or hooks onto a component such as a

shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to knock the component free.

Toe-in The amount the. front wheels are closer together at the front than at the rear. On rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of toe-in is usually specified to keep the front wheels running parallel on the road by offsetting other forces that tend to spread the wheels apart. Toe-out The amount the front wheels are closer together at the rear than at the front. On front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of toe-out is usually specified. Tools For full information on choosing and using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive Tools Manual. Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from another one with the same.colour insulator. Tune-up A process of accurate and careful adjustments and parts replacement to obtain the best possible engine performance.

Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air. Normally used to increase the power output from a given engine displacement, but can also be used primarily to reduce exhaust emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel

engine).

U Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted connection for transmitting power from a driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a cross-shaped member called the spider.

V Valve A.device through which the flow of liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk may be started, stopped, or regulated by a movable part that opens, shuts, or partially obstructs one or more ports or passageways.

A valve is also the movable part of such a device. Valve clearance The clearance between the valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is measured when the valve is closed. Vernier caliper A precision measuring instrument that measures inside and outside dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a micrometer, but more convenient. Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its resistance to flow. Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure” in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current of one ampere through a resistance of one ohm.

W

|

Welding Various processes used to join metal items by heating the areas to be joined to a molten state and fusing them together. For more information refer to the Haynes

Automotive Welding Manual. . Wiring diagram A drawing portraying th components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical system, using standardised symbols. For more information refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual.

.

REFe24 INGEX Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” ¢ “Page number”

A ABS - 9°18, 9°19 Accelerator

cable - 4A°6, 4Be2, 4Ce3, 4De10 pedal - 4Ae6, 4Be2, 4Ce3, 4De11 Aerial - 12°24

Air bag - 12°25, 12°26 Air cleaner - 4Ae2, 4Be2, 4Ce2, 4De15 _ air temperature control system - 4Ae3, 4Be2 Air conditioning system - 3°10

refrigerant - 1Ae10, 1Be9 Air filter - 1Ae¢16, 1B°14 Alternator - 5Ae¢3, 5Ae4

Amplifier unit - 5Be5 Anti-lock braking system - 9°18, 9°19 Anti-roll bar - 10°6, 10¢7

connecting link - 10¢7 Anti-stall speed - 1Be9 Anti-theft alarm system - 12°24

Antifreeze - 0°13, 0°18, 1A9e18, 1Be16 ATF - 0¢18, 1Ae9, 1Ae11, 1Be8, 1B°13 Automatic transmission - 7Be1 et seq

fluid - 0°18, 1Ae9, 1Ae11, 1Be8, 1Be13 fluid cooler - 7Be5 kickdown cable - 7Be4 oil seals - 7Be4

overhaul - 7Be6 removal and refitting - 7Be5 selector cable - 7Be3 speedometer drive - 7Be4 starter inhibitor/reversing light switch - 7Be5 Auxiliary drivebelt - 1Ae¢13, 1Be11 Axle assembly - 10°10

Battery - 0°16, 5Ae2 > disconnection - REFe5 Bearings engine - 2De15

hub - 10¢4, 10¢8 Big-end bearings - 2De15 Bleeding brakes - 9e2 fuel system - 4De3

hydraulic system - 9e2 power steering - 10°14 Body electrical systems - 12¢1 et seq Body exterior fittings - 11°19 Bodywork - 11¢1 et seq Bonnet - 11°6 Boot lid - 11°16 Bosch Monopoint system components - 4Be6 Bosch Motronic system components - 4Ce5

Brakes - 9°71 et seq bleeding - 9e2 caliper - 9°12, 9°13 disc - 9°10, 9¢11 drum - 9e11

fluid - 0°14, 0°18, 1A919, 1Be17 master cylinder - 9°15

pads - 1A°15, 1A¢17, 1B°12, 1Be15, 994, 9¢7 pedal - 9°15 pipes and hoses - 9¢4 pressure-regulating valves - 9°18

shoes - 1A¢17, 1Be15, 998 wheel cylinder - 9°14

Bulbs - 12¢5, 12°10, 12°13 Bumpers - 11°94

C Caliper - 9°12, 9¢13 Camshaft and followers - 2Be12, 2Ce9 _and rocker arms - 2A99 oil seals - 2A°8, 2Be11 Capacities - 1Ae2, 1Be2 Carburettor - 4Ae7, 4A9*8 Carpets- 11°2 Catalytic converter - 4Ee4 Central locking components - 11°17 Centre console - 11°24 Charging system - 5Ae1 et seq Choke cable - 4Ae6 Cigarette lighter - 12°18 Clock - 12¢18

Clutch - 6¢1 et seq adjustment and lubrication - 1A*°15, 1Be12 assembly - 6e3 cable - 6e2 pedal - 6e3 release mechanism - 64 Component location - 1A*5, 1Be4 Compression test - 2A*3, 2Be5, 2Ce3 Conversion factors - REFe2 Coolant - 0°13, 0°18, 1A9°18, 1B°16 pump - 3°¢6 Cooling fan - 3¢5 Cooling system - 3°71 et seq draining - 1Ae¢18, 1Be16 filling - 1Ae18, 1Be16 flushing - 1A9¢18, 1B°16 hoses - 3¢2 switches and sensors - 3e5 Crankshaft - 2De10, 2De14, 2De16 oil seals - 2Ae14, 2Be18, 2Ce13 pulley -2Be7,2Ce4 Cylinder block/crankcase - 2De12 Cylinder head - 2Ae10, 2Be14, 2Ce11, 2De8, 2De10 cover - 2Ae4, 2Be6, 2Ce4 '

Index Rere25

D Depressurising the fuel injection system - 4Be3, 4Ce4 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures - 2C*1 seq

“Dim-dip” lighting system - 12°25 Dimensions - REFe1 Disc - 9°10, 9e11 Disconnecting the battery - REFe5 Distributor - 5Be4 Door - 11¢7 handle - 11°10 inner trim panel - 11°7 lock - 11°10 Draining cooling system - 1A9®18, 1B°16 fuel filter - 1Be7 manual transmission - 7A®2 Driveshafts - 8°1 et seq

gaiters - 1A°9, 1Be8, 8e3 intermediate bearing - 8°6 overhaul - 8e¢6 Drum - 9e11

E Electric cooling fan - 3°5 Electric windows - 11°18 Electrical fault-finding - 12¢5 Electrical systems - 0°16 Emission control systems - 4E¢1 et seq

check - 1Ae¢13, 1Be11 Engine assembly/valve timing holes - 2Ae4, 2Be5, 2Ce3 camshaft and followers - 2Be12, 2Ce9

camshaft and rocker arms - 2Ae9 compression test - 2Ae3, 2Be5, 2Ce3 crankshaft - 2De10, 2De14, 2De16 crankshaft pulley - 2Be7, 2Ce4 cylinder block/crankcase - 2De12 cylinder head - 2Ae10, 2Be14, 2Ce11, 2De8, 2De10 cylinder head cover - 2Ae4, 2Be6, 2C°4 flywheel/driveplate - 2Ae14, 2Be18 immobiliser - 12°24 initial start-up after overhaul - 2De23 leakdown test - 2Ce3 mounting bracket - 2Ce8 oil - 0e12, 0°18, 1A°7, 1Be6 oil cooler - 2Be18 oil pump - 2A¢13, 2Be17, 2Ce13 oil seals - 2Ae°8, 2Be11, 2Ce13 overhaul - 2De7, 2De15 piston rings - 2De16 piston/connecting rod assembly - 2D°10, 2D*13, 2De22 removal and overhaul procedures - 2De1 et seq sump - 2A¢13, 2Be16, 2C°13 timing belt -1A°17, 1B°16, 2A*6, 2Be8, 2C*5

timing belt covers - 2A*5, 2Be7, 2Ce4 timing belt idler roller - 2Ce9 timing belt tensioner and sprockets - 2Ae7, 2Be10, 2Ce6, 2Ce8 valve clearances - 2Ae9, 2Be13, 2Ce10 won’t start --0°6 Engine/transmission mountings - 2Ae14, 2Be19, 2Ce14 removal - 2De4, 2De5, 2De7 Exhaust manifold - 4Ae¢10, 4Be8, 4Ce11, 4De11 Exhaust system - 4Ae°11, 4Be8, 4Ce11, 4De15 Exterior light units - 12¢14 © Exterior mirrors - 11°18

[= Facia panel - 11°25 Fast idle thermostatic sensor - 4De4 Fault finding - REFe12 et seq Filling the cooling system - 1Ae18, 1Be16 Fittings - 11°71 et seq Fluid cooler - 7Be5

Fluids - 0°18, 1Ae2, 1Be2 Flushing the cooling system - 1A°18, 1B°16 Flywheel/driveplate - 2A9e14, 2Be18 Foglights - 12°16 Fuel filler flap release cable- 11°17

Fuel filter - 1Ae11, 1Ae17, 1B°13 water draining - 1Be7 Fuel gauge sender unit - 4Ae4, 4Be4, 4Ce4 ; Fuel injection system - 4Be2, 4Be3, 4Be5, 4Ce3, 4Ce4 Fuel injectors - 4Be6, 4Be7, 4Ce5, 4Ce8, 4De9 Fuel level sender - 4De11 Fuel pick-up unit - 4De11 Fuel pump - 4Ae4, 4Be3, 4Ce4, 4De6 Fuel system bleeding - 4De3 priming - 4De3 Fuel tank - 4Ae5, 4Be4, 4Ce4, 4De11 Fuel/exhaust system - carburettor petrol models 4A°¢1 et seq Fuel/exhaust system - single-point petrol injection models 4Be1 et seq Fuel/exhaust system - multi-point petrol injection models 4Ce1 et seq Fuel/exhaust systems - Diesel models - 4De tet seq Fuses - 12e1 et seq, 12°6

G Gaiters driveshaft - 1Ae9, 1Be8, 8¢3 steering gear - 10°14 Gearchange linkage - 7Ae3 Glass - 11¢12 Glossary of technical terms - REF*20 Glow plugs - 5Ce2

REFe26 INGeX

H Handbrake - 1Ae15, 1Be13 cables - 9¢17 lever - 9e17 Handle - 11°10 Headlights - 12°14 beam alignment - 12°16 Heater/ventilation components - 3¢8 Heating system - 3¢1 et seq Hinge lubrication - 1A°¢16, 1B°14 Horn - 12°18

Hoses check - 1Ae8, 1Be7, 3¢2 HT coil - 5Be3 Hub assembly - 10¢7 Hub bearings - 10¢4, 10¢8 Hydraulic fluid - 0°14, 0¢18, 1Ae19, 1Be17 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 9°4 Hydraulic system bleeding - 9e2

Idle mixture - 1A¢12 Idle speed - 1A°12, 1Be9 Ignition HT coil - 5Be3 _ Ignition switch - 5A¢5 Ignition switch/steering column lock - 10°13 Ignition system - 5Be1 et seq amplifier unit - 5Be5 check - 1A¢12 Ignition timing - 5Be5 Injection timing - 4De8, 4De9 Injectors - 4Be6, 4Be7, 4Ce5, 4Ce8, 4De9 Inlet manifold - 4Ae10, 4Be8, 4C°10, 4De11 Inner trim panel - 11¢7 Instrument panel - 12°17, 12°18

Intercooler - 4De14 Interior trim - 11°22 Intermediate bearing - 8°6 Introduction - 0¢4

Lower arm - 105 balljoint - 10¢6 Lubricants - 0°18, 1A¢*2, 1Be2

M Magneti Marelli system components - 4Be7, 4C#8 Main bearings - 2De15 Maintenance schedule - 1A*4, 1B°3 Major body damage - 11°93 Manifolds - 4A¢10, 4Be8, 4C#10, 4Ce11, 4De11 Manual transmission - 7A¢1 et seq draining - 7Ae2 oil level - 0°18, 1A°17, 1Be15 oil seals - 7A®4 overhaul - 7Ae9 refilling - 7A*2 removal and refitting - 7Ae7 Master cylinder - 9°15 Maximum speed - 4De4. Minor body damage - 11°2 Mirrors - 11°18 MOT test checks - REFe8

N Number plate light - 12°16

O Oil, engine - 0°12, 0°18, 1A°7, 1Be6 Oil, manual transmission - 0°18, 1A°17, 1Be15 Oil cooler - 2Be18 Oil filter - 1Ae¢7, 1Be6 Oil level sensor - 5A*5 Oil pressure warning light switch - 5A¢5 Oil pump - 2Ae¢13, 2Be17, 2Ce13 Oil seals automatic transmission - 7Be4 crankshaft - 2Ae14, 2Be18, 2Ce13

engine - 2Ae8, 2Be11, 2Ce13 Jacking - REFe5 Jump starting - 0°7

K

Kickdown cable - 7Be4

L Leakdown test - 2Ce3 Leaks - 0°9, 1Ae8, 1Be7

' Lights-on” warning buzzer - 12°18 Lock lubrication - 1A°16, 1Be14

Loudspeakers - 12°23

manual transmission - 7Ae4 Oil temperature sensor - 5Ae5

p Pads - 1Ae¢15, 1A917, 1Be12, 1Be15, 9e4, 9e7 Piston rings - 2De16 Piston/connecting rod assembly - 2De10, 2De13, 2De22 Power steering bleeding - 10°14 fluid - 0°13, 0e18 pump - 10°14 Preheating system - 5Ce1 et seq control unit - 5Ce2 Priming the fuel system - 4De3 Punctures - 0¢8

Index ReEFe27

+

R Radiator - 3e3 Radio aerial - 12°24 Radio/cassette player - 12°22 Rear quarter window glass - 11°19 Rear window wiper motor - 12e20 Refilling the manual transmission - 7Ae2 Refrigerant - 1A*10, 1Be9 Relays - 12°6 Repair procedures - REFe4 Reversing light switch - 7Ae6

Right-hand engine mounting bracket - 2Ce8 Road test - 1A9°15, 1Be13 Roadside Repairs - 0°6 et seq Routine maintenance and servicing - 1A*1 et seq, 1B°1 et seq

S

U

Safety first! - 0¢5

Underbody views - 1A°*6, 1B*5 Underbonnet views - 0°10 et seq, 1A*5, 1B°4

Scratches - 11°2 Seat belts - 11°21

Unleaded petrol - 4A°7, 4Be2, 4Ce3 Upholstery - 11¢2

Seats - 11°20 Selector cable - 7Be3 Selector lever assembly - 7Be4 Servicing see Routine maintenance Shock absorber - 10°10

V Vacuum pump - 9¢20, 921 Vacuum servo unit and check valve - 9°16 Valve clearances - 2Ae9, 2Be13, 2C#10

Shoes - 1A917, 1Be15, 9°8 Short-circuit - 12°6 Spare parts - REFe3

. Vehicle identification - REFe3

Spark plugs - 1A°10 Speedometer drive - 7Ae6, 7Be4 cable - 12°18 Starter inhibitor/reversing light switch - 7Be5 Starter motor - 5Ae¢4, 5Ae5 Starting problems - 0°6 Starting system - 5Ae1 et seq

_ Steering - 10°17 et seq angles - 10°16

lower arm - 10°5, 10°6 Switches - 3e5, 12°7 Swivel hub assembly - 10¢2

Washer fluid - 0°14

Wheel cylinder - 9°14

Wheelarch liners - 11°20 Windows - 11°12, 11°18 Windscreen - 11°19 washer system - 12°22

Subframe - 10°7

strut - 10°4, 10¢5 subframe - 10°7

W Weights - REFe1 Wheel alignment - 10°16 Wheel changing - 0°8

column - 10¢12 | gear assembly - 10°13 gear gaiters - 10°14 wheel - 10¢11 Stop solenoid - 4De5 Stop-light switch - 9°18

Suspension - 10°71 et seq anti-roll bar - 10°6, 10°7 check - 1A°8, 1Be8 components - 10°10

Vehicle ride height - 10°11 Vehicle support - REFe5 Ventilation system - 3¢1 et seq

Water pump - 3°¢6 Weekly checks - 0°10 et seq

check - 1Ae¢8, 1Be8

Sump - 2Ae¢13, 2Be16, 2Ce13 Sunroof - 11°19

Tailgate - 11°14, 11°15, 11°19 Thermostat - 3¢4 Thermostat/fuel filter housing - 3°7 Throttle body - 4B°4, 4Ce5 Timing belt = 1A¢917, 1Be16, 2Ae6, 2Be8, 2Ce5 covers - 2Ae5, 2Be7, 2Ce4 idler roller - 2Ce9 tensioner and sprockets - 2A°7, 2Be10, 2Ce6, 2Ce8 Tools - REFe6 Towing - 0°9 Track rod - 10¢15 Trim panel - 11¢7, 11°22 TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures - 2A*1 et seq Turbocharger - 4De13, 4De14 Tyres - 0°15 pressures - 0°19

’

wiper components - 12°19 Wiper . arm - 12°19

blades - 0¢17 motor - 12°20 Wiring diagrams - 12°27 et seq Working facilities - REFe6

X XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures - 2Be1 et seq

=4 —

Haynes Manuals - The Complete List Title _

Book No.

Title

Book No.

Book No.

Ford Capri Il (& Ill) 1.6 & 2.0 (74 - 87) up toE

Alfa Romeo Alfetta (73 - 87) up to E *

0531

Ford Capri II (& Ill) 2.8 & 3.0 V6 (74 - 87) up toE 1309

—\azda 626 (May 83 - Sept 87) up to E

0929

0605

Ford Cortina Mk II] 1300 & 1600 (70 - 76) up to P*

Mazda B-1600, B-1800 & B-2000 Pick-up Petrol (72 - 88) up to F

0267

AUDI 80, 90 & Coupe Petrol (79 - Nov 88) up to F

Audi 80, 90 & Coupe Petrol (Oct 86 - 90)

0283

‘Title

ALFA ROMEO Alfasud/Sprint (74 - 88) up toF * 0292

0070

azda 323 (Oct 89 - 98)

Gto R

3455

DtoH 1491 — Ford Escort Mk | 1100 & 1300 (68 - 74) up toN* 0171 — Mazda RX-7 (79 - 85) up to C *

Audi 100 & 200 Petrol (Oct 82-90) uptoH

0907

Ford Escort Mk,! Mexico, RS 1600 & RS 2000

3504

‘Ford Escort Mk Il Mexico, RS 1800 & RS 2000

3575 0118

(75 - 80) up to W * Ford Escort (75 - Aug 80) up to V * Ford Escort Petrol (Sept 80 - Sept 90) up toH

0922 0718

Ford Escort & Orion Petrol (Sept 90 - 00) H to X 1737 Ford Escort & Orion Diesel (Sept 90 - 00) H to X 4081 Ford Fiesta (76 - Aug 83) up to Y

0334

1066

Ford Fiesta Petrol (Aug 83 - Feb 89) A to F

1030

Ford Fiesta Petrol (Feb 89 - Oct 95) F to N

Audi 100 & AG Petro! & Diesel

(70 - 74) up to N *

(May 91 - May 97) H to P

Audi A4 Petrol & Diesel (95 - Feb 00) MtoV AUSTIN A35 & A40 (56 - 67) up to F * Austin/MG/Rover Maestro 1.3 & 1.6 Petrol (83 - 95) up to M Austin/MG Metro (80 - May 90) up to G _ Austin/Rover Montego 1.3 & 1.6 Petrol (84 - 94) AtoL

Austin/MG/Rover Montego 2.0 Petrol

0460

MERCEDES-BENZ 190, 190E & 190D Petrol &

0139

Diesel (83 - 93)

Ato L

3450

Mercedes-Benz 200 D, 240 D, 240 TD, 300 D & 300

0735 0280 0686

TD 123 Series Diesel (Oct 76-85) uptoC Mercedes-Benz 250 & 280 (68-72) uptoL (Mercedes-Benz 250 & 280 123 Series Petrol

1114 0346

(Oct 76 - 84) up to B * Mercedes-Benz 124 Series Petrol & Diesel (85 - Aug 93) C to.K Mercedes-Benz C-Class Petrol & Diesel

0677 3253

1595

(93 - Aug 00) L to W

3511

(84 - 95) A toM Mini (59 - 69) up to H

1067 — Ford Fiesta Petrol & ‘Diesel (Oct 95 - 01) N-reg. on 3397 0527 Ford Fiesta (02 - 04) 02-reg. onwards 4170

MGA (55 - 62) * MGB (62 - 80) up to W

0475 0111

Mini (69 - 01) up to X

0646

MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite

Austin/Rover 2.0 litre Diesel Engine (86 - 93) C to L

Ford Focus Petrol & Diesel (98 - 01) S to Y

3759

Ford Focus Petrol & Diesel (01 - 04) Y-reg. on 4167 1857

Ford Galaxy Petrol & Diesel (95 - Aug 00) M to W 3984

AUSTIN HEALEY 100/6 & 3000 (56 -68) uptoG *0049 Forq Granada Petrol (Sept 77 - Feb 85) up to B 0481 BEDFORD CF Petrol (69 - 87) up to E 0163 Ford Granada & Scorpio Petrol = Bedford/Vauxhall Rascal & Suzuki Supercarry (86 - Oct 94) C to M

(Mar 85 - 94) B to M 301 5

BMW 316, 320 & 320i (4-cyl)

(75 - Feb 83) up to Y *

0276

BMW 320, 320i, 323i & 325i (6-cyl)

_(Oct77-Sept87)uptoE

__(98 - 80) up to W

0265

MITSUBISHI Shogun & L200 Pick-Ups Petrol

(83 - 94) up to M MORRIS |tal 1.3 (80 - 84) up to B

1944 0705

1245

Morris Minor 1000 (56 - 71) up to K

0024

Ford Ka (96 - 02) P-reg. onwards

3570

NISSAN Almera Petrol (95 - Feb 00) N to V

4053

Ford Mondeo Petrol (93 - Sept 00) K to X

1923

Nissan Bluebird (May 84 - Mar 86) A to C

1223

Nissan Bluebird Petrol (Mar 86 - 90) C to H

1473

Ford Mondeo Petrol & Diesel

(Oct 00 - Jul 03) X to 03

_——C«B815 = Ford Mondeo Diesel (93 - 96) L to N

3990

Nissan Cherry (Sept 82 - 86) up to D

1009 0903

Nissan Micra (93 - 99) K to T Nissan Primera Petrol (90- Aug 99)HtoT

3465

1031

Nissan Micra (83 - Jan 93) up to K

0931

Nissan Stanza (82 - 86) up to D

0824

BMW 3- & 5-Series Petrol (81-91) uptod BMW 3-Series Petrol (Apr 91-96)HtoN

__1948 Fora Orion Petrol (83 - Sept 90) up to H 3210 - Ford Sierra 4-oyl Petrol (82-93) upto K

BMW 520i & 525e (Oct 81 - June 88) uptoE

1560 For ¢Transit Petrol (Mk 2)(78- Jan86)upto 0719 ‘Nissan Sunny Petrol (May 82 - Oct 86) up to D 0895

BMW 3-Series Petrol (Sept 98-03)S-reg. on 4067

Ford Sierra V6 Petrol (82 - 91) up to J

0904

BMW 525, 528&528i(73- Sept 81)uptoX* 0632 Forq Transit Petrol (Mk 3) (Feb 86-89) CtoG 1468

3254 1851

Nissan Sunny Petrol (Oct 86 - Mar 91)DtoH

BMW 1500, 1502, 1600, 1602, 2000 & 2002

Ford Transit Diesel (Feb 86 - 99).C to T

3019

CITROEN 2CV, Ami & Dyane (67-90) upto o1g6

FOOT ToSKTSlireDiesel Engine

ses ©“Opel Ascona Patralié1o8)

1378

Nissan Sunny Petrol (Apr 91-95)HtoN

3219

EANYSLER PTCicerPAG(OO=03]Wegonange 210-68 1.8 DieselEngine(84-96)ATON1172 Pie ee ee Citroén AX Petro! & Diesel (87-97) DtoP

3014

FREIGHT ROVER Sherpa Petrol (74-67)uptoE0463

Citroén BX Petrol (83 - 94) Ato L Citroén C15 Van Petrol & Diesel (89 - Oct 98) F to S Citroén CX Petrol (75 - 88) up to F

0908

HILLMAN Avenger (70-82) uptoY Hillman Imp (63 - 76) up to R * HONDA Accord (76 - Feb 84) up to A =

3509 0528

Citro&n Saxo Petrol & Diesel (06-01) NtoX 3506 Citron Visa Petrol (79 - 88) up to F cpg RnR BEES OCT OS Ina A Citroén Xantia Petrol & Diesel (93-98) KtoS

Citron XM Petrol & Diesel (89 - 00) GtoX

Citroén Xsara Petrol & Diesel

(97 - Sept 00) R to W

Citroén Xsara Picasso Petrol & Diesel (00 - 02) W-reg. onwards Citroén ZX Diesel (91 - 98) J to S Citroén ZX Petrol (91 - 98) H to S

Citroén 1.7 & 1.9 litre Diesel Engine 84 - 96) Ato N

Fiat 500 (67-73) uptoM =

Fiat Bravo & Brava Petrol (95-00) NtoW Fiat Cinquecento (93 - 98) K to R

Fiat Panda (81 - 95) up to M

3082

3451 3751

3944 1922 1981

1379

Honda Civic (Feb 84 - Oct 87) Ato E ee RE RU EL Olea UVC. eetcal.(Mat.9o'= 00): Mitoox

1226 3199“ 40508

HYUNDAI Pony (85 - 94) C to M

3398

JAGUAR EFypet6).2 (2)uptoe

Jaguar Mk! & I, 240 & 340 (65 - 69) up to H * 0098

: : Fiat Punto Petrol & Diesel (94 - Oct 99) LtoV 3251 Land Fiat Punto Petrol (Oct 99 - July 03) V-regon 4066

Jaguar XJ12, XJS & Sovereign; Daimler Double

i472 BS) UNE

JEEP Cherokee Petrol (93 - 96) K to N

:

0273

3017

Land Rover Discovery Petrol & Diesel 89 - 98) G to S ( ; ROVER reclander Petrone Diesel (97 - 02) R-reg. onwards

0923 — Land Rover Series Il, IIA & Ill 4-cyl Petrol

0001

(See Vauxhall/Opel Calibra Book No. 3502)

Opel Corsa Petrol (83 - Mar 93)

Land Rover Series IIA & Ill Diesel (58 - 85) up to C

(58 - 85) up to C MAZDA 323 (Mar 81 - Oct 89) up to G

(See Vauxhall/Opel Corsa Diesel Book No. 4087)

Opel Corsa Petrol (Apr 97 - Oct 00)

(See Vauxhall/Opel Corsa Petrol Book No. 3921)

:

Vauehal/Ope CorsaPetrol&DieselBookNo.4079) 1610 _(See Opel Frontera Petrol & Diesel (91-98)

Diesel

(83 - 95) up to N

0478 1943

Fiat Uno Petrol (83 - 95) up to M Fiat X1/9 (74 - 89) up to G *

Opel Calibra (90 -98)

3159

we

FORD Anglia (59 - 68) up to G *

pel Astra & Zafira Petrol (Feb 98 - Sept 00) (ee Vauxhall/Opel Astra &Zafira Petrol Book No. 3756) ce ar eaincs vane GR

3160

Te pabal fe 0ia ;F .

3215

(Not available in UK see Vauxhall Nova 0909)

(87 - 91) D to J Lada Samara goog LAND ROVER 90, 110 & Defender

3501

(Not available in UK see Vauxhall Cavalier 0812)

Opel Astra Petrol (Oct 91 - Feb 98) (Not available in UK see Vauxhall Astra 1832) 3156 Opel Astra & Zafira Diesel (Feb 98 - Sept 00) (See Vauxhall/Opel Astra & Zafira Diesel Book No. 3797)

Jaguar XJ6, XJ & Sovereign; Daimler Sovereign Opel Corsa Petrol (Mar 93 - 97) __(68 - Oct 86) up to D 0242 —_(Not available in UK see Vauxhall Corsa 1985) Jaguar XJ6 &Sovereign (Oct86-Sept 94)DtoM3261 pel Corsa Diesel (Mar 93 - Oct 00)

3572

0793

+0037 0022 0351

en

(See Vauxhall/Opel Frontera Book No. 3454)

Opel Kadett Petrol (Nov 79 - Oct 84) uptoB 3016 — Opel Kadett Petrol (Oct 84 - Oct 91) Sree (Not available in UK see Vauxhall Astra 3929 & Belmont 1136)

0529 0314

1608

3196

* Opel Omega & Senator Petrol (Nov86-94)

(NA in UK see Vauxhall Carlton & Senator 1469)

Opel Omega (94-99)

0634

3157

Le) SST

(See Vauxhall/Opel Omega Book No. 3510)

OpelRekordPetrol(Feb78- Oct86)upto D 0543 - * Classic reprint

Title Opel Vectra Petrol (Oct 88 -Oct 95)

Book No. _ Title Book No. ~ Saab 9-5 Petrol (Sept 97 -03) R-reg. onwards 4156

(Not available in UK see Vauxhall Cavalier 1570) 31 58 Opel Vectra (95-Feb 99) (See Vauxhall/Opel Vectra Book No. 3396) Opel Vectra (Mar 99 - May 02) (See Vauxhall/Opel Vectra Book No. 3930) Opel Diesel Engine (See Vauxhall/Opel 1.5, 1.6 & 1.7 litre Diesel Engine Book No. 1222) PEUGEOT 106 Petrol & Diesel (91 - 02) J-reg. on 1882 Peugeot 205 Petrol (83 - 97) A to P 0932 Peugeot 206 Petrol & Diesel (98-01) StoX 3757 Peugeot 306 Petrol & Diesel (93 - 99) K to T 3073 Peugeot 307 Petrol & Diesel (01 - 04) Y-reg. on 4147 Peugeot 309 Petrol (86 - 93) C to K 1266 Peugeot 405 Petrol (88 - 97) Eto P 1559 Peugeot 405 Diesel (88 - 97) E to P 3198 Peugeot 406 Petrol & Diesel (96 - Mar 99) N to T 3394 Peugeot 406 Petrol & Diesel (Mar 99 - 02) T-reg. onwards 3982. Peugeot 505 Petrol (79 - 89) up to G 0762 Peugeot 1.7/1.8 & 1.9 litre Diesel Engine

(82 - 96) up to N

0950

Peugeot 2.0, 2.1, 2.3 & 2.5 litre Diesel Engines

(74 - 90) up to H PORSCHE 911 (65 - 85) up to C Porsche 924 & 924 Turbo (76 - 85) up to C PROTON (89 - 97) Fto P RANGE ROVER V8 Petrol (70 - Oct 92) upto K RELIANT Robin & Kitten (73 - 83) up to A * RENAULT 4 (61 - 86) up to D * Renault 5 Petrol (Feb 85 - 96) B to N Renault 9 & 11 Petrol (82 - 89) up to F Renault 18 Petrol (79 - 86) up to D Renault 19 Petrol (89 - 96) Fto N Renault 19 Diesel (89 - 96) F to N Renault 21 Petrol (86 - 94) C to M Renault 25 Petrol & Diesel (84 - 92) B to K Renault Clio Petrol (91 - May 98) H to R Renault Clio Diesel (91 - June 96) H to N Renault Clio Petrol & Diesel

(May 98 - May 01) R to Y

3906

(June 01 - 04) Y-reg. onwards 4168 Renault Espace Petrol & Diesel (85 - 96) C to N 3197 Renault Laguna Petrol & Diesel (94 - 00) L to W 3252 Renault Mégane & Scénic Petrol & Diesel (96 - 98) NtoR 3395 Renault Mégane & Scénic Petrol & Diesel (Apr 99 - 02) T-reg. onwards 3916 ROVER 213 & 216 (84 - 89) AtoG 1116 Rover 214 & 414 Petrol (89 - 96) G to N 1689 Rover 216 & 416 Petrol (89 - 96) G to N 1830

Rover 211, 214, 216, 218 & 220 Petrol & Diesel (Dec 95 - 98) NtoR _ Rover 25 & MG ZR Petrol & Diesel

3399

(Oct 99 - 03) V-reg. onwards Rover 414, 416 & 420 Petrol & Diesel (May 95ET - 98) Mto RUE Se LR R

4145

a _ Rover 618, 620 & 623 Petrol (93-97) KtoP Rover 820, 825 & 827 Petrol (86-95) DtoN ~ Rover 3500 (76 - 87) up to E * Rover Metro, 111 & 114 Petrol (May 90 - 98) G to S SAAB 95 & 96 (66 - 76) up to R * Saab 90, 99 & 900 (79 - Oct 93) up to L Saab 900 (Oct 93 - 98) L to R

(Oct 98 -Gct 99) L to V Seat Ibiza &Malaga Petrol (85 - 92) B to K

3571 1609

SKODA Estelis-(77 - 89) up to G

0604

Skoda Favorit (89 - 96) F to N Skoda Felicia Petrol & Diesel (95-01)-MtoX SUBARU 1600 & 1800 (Nov 79-90) uptoH SUNBEAM Alpine, Rapier & H120 (67 -.74y up to N * SUZUKI SJ Series, Samurai & Vitara (4-cyl) Petrol (82-97) up to P TALBOT Alpine, Solara, Minx & Rapier (75 - 86) up to D Talbot Horizon Petrol (78 - 86) up to D Talbot Samba (82 - 86) up to D TOYOTA Carina E Petrol (May 92-97) JtoP Toyota Corolla (80 - 85) up to C Toyota Corolla (Sept 83 - Sept 87) A to E Toyota Corolla (Sept 87 - Aug 92) E to K Toyota Corolla Petrol (Aug 92 - 97) K to P

1801 3505 0995

Toyota Hi-Ace & Hi-Lux Petrol (69-Oct 83) up toA TRIUMPH GT6 & Vitesse (62-74) up toN*

1607 0264 Triumph Herald (59-71) up to K * 0397 Triumph Spitfire (62 - 81) up to X 3255 Triumph Stag (70 - 78) up to T * 0606 Triumph TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4 & TR4A (52 - 67) up to F * 0436 Triumph TR5 & 6 (67 -75) up to P * 0072 Triumph TR7 (75 - 82) up to Y * 1219 VAUXHALL Astra Petrol (80 - Oct 84) uptoB 0822 Vauxhall Astra & Belmont Petrol 0598 (Oct 84 - Oct 91) B to J 1646 1946 _ Vauxhall Astra Petrol (Oct 91- Feb 98)JtoR 1397 Vauxhall/Opel Astra & Zafira Petrol (Feb 98 - Sept 00) R to W 1228 Vauxhall/Opel Astra & Zafira Diesel 1853 (Feb 98 - Sept 00) R to W 3031 Vauxhall/Opel Calibra (90 - 98) G to S

Renault Clio Petrol & Diesel ‘

SEAT Ibiza & Cordoba Petrol & Diesel

3453 as 3257 1380 0365

1711 0198 0765 3512

means

th

1942 0337 0473 0823 3256 0683 1024 1683 3259

0304 0112 0010 0113 0441 0028 0031 0322 0635 1136 1832

3758

3797 3502 Vauxhall Carlton Petrol (Oct 78 - Oct 86) up to D 0480

Vauxhall Carlton & Senator Petrol

(Nov 86 - 94) D to L 1469 Vauxhall Cavalier Petrol (81 - Oct 88) uptoF 0812 Vauxhall Cavalier Petrol (Oct 88-95) FtoN 1570 Vauxhall Chevette (75 - 84) up to B 0285 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa Diesel (Mar 93 - Oct 00) K to X 4087 Vauxhall Corsa Petro! (Mar 93 - 97) KtoR 1985 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa Petrol (Apr 97 - Oct 00) P to X 3921 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa Petrol & Diesel (Oct 00 - Sept 03) X-reg onwards 4079 Vauxhall/Opel Frontera Petrol & Diesel (91 - Sept 98) J to S 3454 Vauxhall Nova Petrol (83 - 93) up to K 0909 Vauxhall/Opel Omega Petrol (94-99)LtoT 3510 Vauxhall/Opel Vectra Petrol & Diesel (95 - Feb 99) NtoS 3396 Vauxhall/Opel Vectra Petrol & Diesel (Mar 99 - May 02) T-reg. onwards 3930

Vauxhall/Opel 1.5, 1.6 & 1.7 litre Diesél Engine (82 - 96) up to N 1222 VOLKSWAGEN 411 & 412 (68-75) uptoP* 0091 Volkswagen Volkswagen (65 - 75) Volkswagen

Beetle 1200 (54 - 77) up to S Beetle 1300 & 1500 up to P Beetle 1302 & 1302S

(70 -72) up to L * updating and development

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Title Book No. Volkswagen Beetle 1303, 1303S & GT (72 - 75) up to P 0159 Volkswagen Beetle Petrol & Diesel (Apr 99 - 01) T-reg. onwards 3798 Volkswagen Golf & Bora Petrol & Diesel (April 98 - 00) R to X 3727 Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Mk 1 Petrol 1.1 & 1.3 (74 - 84) up toA 0716 Volkswagen Golf, Jetta & Scirocco Mk 1 Petrol 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 (74 - 84) up to A 0726 Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Mk 1 Diesel (78 - 84) up to A 0451 Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Mk 2 Petrol (Mar 84 - Feb 92) Ato J 1081 Volkswagen Golf & Vento Petrol & Diesel (Feb 92 - Mar 98) J to R 3097 Volkswagen Golf (01 - 04) X-reg. onwards 4169 Volkswagen LT Petrol Vans & Light Trucks (76 - 87) up toE 0637 Volkswagen Passat & Santana Petrol (Sept 81 - May 88) up to E 0814 Volkswagen Passat 4-cyl Petrol & Diesel (May 88 - 96) E to P 3498 Volkswagen Passat 4-cyl Petrol & Diesel (Dec 96 - Nov 00) P to X 3917 Volkswagen Polo & Derby (76 - Jan 82) up to X 0335 Volkswagen Polo (82 - Oct 90) up to H 0813 Volkswagen Polo Petrol (Nov 90 - Aug 94) H to L 3245 Volkswagen Polo Hatchback Petrol & Diesel (94-99) MtoS 3500 Volkswagen Scirocco (82 - 90) up to H 1224 Volkswagen Transporter 1600 (68 - 79) up to V 0082 Volkswagen Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 (72 - 79) up to V * 0226 Volkswagen Transporter (air-cooled) Petrol (79 - 82) up to Y 0638 Volkswagen Transporter (water-cooled) Petrol (82 - 90) up to H 3452 Volkswagen Type 3 (63 - 73) up to M * 0084 VOLVO 120 & 130 Series (& P1800) (61 - 73) up to M * 0203 Volvo 142, 144 & 145 (66 - 74) up to N * 0129 Volvo 240 Series Petrol (74 - 93) up to K * 0270 Voivo 262, 264 & 260/265 (75 - 85) uptoC * 0400 Volvo 340, 343, 345 & 360 (76-91) uptoJd 0715 Volvo 440, 460 & 480 Petrol (87-97)DtoP 1691 Volvo 740 & 760 Petrol (82 - 91) up to J 1258 © Volvo 850 Petrol (92 - 96) J to P 3260 Volvo 940 Petrol (90 - 96) H to N 3249 Volvo S40 & V40 Petrol (96 - 99) N to V 3569 Volvo $70, V70 & C70 Petrol (96-99) PtoV 3573

AUTOMOTIVE TECHBOOKS Automotive Air Conditioning Systems Automotive Carburettor Manual Automotive Diagnostic Fault Codes Manual Automotive Diesel Engine Service Guide Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual Automotive Engine Management and Fuel Injection Systems Manual Automotive Gearbox Overhaul Manual Automotive Service Summaries Manual Automotive Timing Belts Manual - Austin/Rover Automotive Timing Belts Manual - Ford Automotive Timing Belts Manual - Peugeot/Citroén Automotive Timing Belts Manual - Vauxhall/Opel Automotive Welding Manual

: 3740 3288 3472 3286

3049 3344 3473 3475 3549 3474 3568

3577 3053

are available through most motor accessory shops, cycle shops and book stores. Our policy of continuous es are being constantly added to the range. For up-to-date information on our complete list of titles please

telephone: (UK) +44 1963 442030 + (US

) +1 805 498 6703 - (France) +33 1 47 17 66 29 - (Sweden) +46 18 124016 - (Australia) +61 3 9763 8100

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The Model J Duesenberg } Derham Tourster.

Only eight of these magnificent cars were ever built — this is the only example to be found outside the United States of America

Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model JDuesenberg to curiosities like the bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports cars including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.

A Perfect Day Out Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of Motoring. Today, they make'a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring Mum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most extensive _ transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to wholesome, homemade meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful rural surroundings of Somerset.

John Haynes O.B.E., Founder and Chairman of the museum at the wheel

of a Haynes Light 12.

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The 1936 490cc sohc-engined International Norton — well known for its racing success

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and 25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton. Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day

Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048

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New addition to family manual series gets even more up close and personal Who could have foreseen where that initial

approach by the Men’s Health Forum would lead? The Man Manual has to date achieved sales in excess of 70,000 copies. The same

‘formula was then applied to the Baby Manual, once again aimed specifically at dads rather than mums; this too was met with a similar level of enthusiasm to the 5 =———==] Man Manual. Now

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[the latest offering, the

"Sex Manual - which addresses a great deal more than »mere technique | — has sparked

firmly established | the credibility and — of this mouldbreaking series. Since the launch of the Man Manual in October 2002, Haynes Publishing has contributed £27,000 to a variety of cancer charities. Sales of the Baby Manual to date have raised in excess of £10,000 for the Great ‘Ormond Street Children's Charity.

The Baby Manual

Conception to two years BY Dr lan Banks At last, a practical step-by-step manual on baby care written for men covering all models, shapes and sizes. This no-nonsense, down-to-earth advice covers all stages of infant develop-ment from conception to birth and on to 2 years old. Hints, tips and advice from real-life fathers and medical professionals, fault finding charts and illustrations in traditional Haynes style, with a touch of humour from cartoonist Jim Campbell, combine to make this a unique publication. Book No: 4059

RRP: £12.99

The Man Manual The practical step-by-step guide to men’s health BY Dr lan Banks

The Sex Manual BY Dr lan Banks The practical guide to sexual health and enjoyment

With a little care Man Mk 1 should last a long lifetime with minimal need for maintenance or spare parts. However, like any piece of high technology, a basic understanding of what goes on beneath the bonnet will greatly aid longevity. In general, men are likely to look after their cars better than their own bodies and, while car MOTs are required by law, there is no such equivalent for the driver. ‘brilliant’ Woman’s Own ‘a no-nonsense guide’ BMA News

Dr lan Banks, author of the bestselling Haynes Man and Baby Manuals, now turns his attention to sex. Once again the style is robust

Book No: 3931

RRP: £12.99

and realistic, dealing with all

possible health and recreational aspects of the popular pastime. Hints and tips, real-life letters from viewers of The Good Sex Guide Late, fault finding charts and illustrations in traditional Haynes style, with more cartoons from Jim Campbell, combine to make this third title the best in the series yet.

Book No: 4086

RRP: £12.99

The most important system in your vehicle is the ignition and associated electrical circuits. When it doesn’t work, the engine, brakes, lights, wipers, central locking and many other vital functions don’t work. The heart of the ignition system is the spark or glow plug. Your choice of plugs can seriously affect performance and reliability so always pick ones that meet your vehicle’s original specifications.

The simplest way to do that is to select Bosch Plugs. You know they will do the job because Bosch works directly with vehicle manufacturers to make sure its plugs meet the exact needs of their engines. Ask your local motor accessories shop for Bosch spark and glow plugs or visit www.boschautoparts.co.uk and click on dealer locator to find your nearest Bosch outlet.

www.boschautoparts.co.uk

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BOSCH

_ Keep your Peugeot 306 in perfect. running order and maintain its value. Haynes shows you how and Saves you money.

Step-by-step . instructions clearly linked romaltiatelicters : : :

| of photos and illustrations show you how to do each job.

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10 000 miles (15 000 km)

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| Spanner ratings grade all tasks by difficulty and experience level. | From easy servicing jobs 3 for the novice...

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| Haynes Hints give valuable tips and short-cuts that ‘help make the job easier. | Tool Tips conan useful information such as ways of “| removing sue without usingee tools. Written from hands on experience, based on the

stripdown and rebuild of a Peugeot 306 using |commonly-available tools.

Hi Basic maintenance - simple weekly checks.

Braking system - safety checks and repairs

i Service your car - complete step-by-step guide

Fuel and ignition systems — explained

Mf Fault finding — pinpoint specific problems easily

Mi Roadside Emergencies — how to dea! with them i Pass the MOT - step-by-step test checks - va i Reference section — includes a detailed glossary

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Electrical system — fault finding and repairs

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Engine - tune-up, minor and major repair

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Wiring diagrams - easy-to-follow layout) Fully indexed — find information quickly

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ISBN 1 85960 554 0

81859°6055

38345 | ABCDEFGH

H936765