Haynes Simca 1000 Owner's Workshop Manual 0900550880, 9780900550881

Citation preview

+o Rear engined Saloon >

_ CiFary Davey) QHAYNES

51294c¢ - 1962 suis

Norkshop Manual

~3 JAN 1975

24, JAN. 1975

| AUTHOR

|

i

FHAYNES

143

9-H.

LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON, PR1 8RH

sTcaTNT =

Simca 1000 Owners Workshop Manual by J H HAYNES Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Adrian Sharp Models covered

944 cc. Simca 1000. 1000, S, GL, GLS, L and LS 1118 cc. Simca 1000. GLS and Special 1294 cc. Simca 1000. Special and Rallye Introduced into United Kingdom in May 1962

SBN 900550 88 O

© JH

Haynes and Company Limited 1973

JH HAYNES AND COMPANY LIMITED SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET

Price £2 (UK only) |

Acknowledgements Our thanks must go to Chrysler France through Chrysler United Kingdom for some of the Simca illustrations, Castrol Limited and Champion Limited have been helpful with

lubrication and spark plug details respectively. Brian Horsfall stripped down our own car, with Les Brazier taking the photographs, and Ted Frenchum page edited the text.

Introduction to the Simca 1000 The Simca 1000 rear going to be remembered

engined saloon is not a car which is in years to come for any particular reason. When introduced in 1962 it was not startling for its beauty, innovating with its design or particularly fast, economic or comfortable. It was a fairly simple, fairly conventional, reasonable, small 4 door saloon, which happened to have its engine in the back.

However,

it has been

successful

for SIMCA,

particularly in France. It was conceived and built in the ‘rear engined small saloon era’ of the Volkswagon Beetle (the pioneer),the FIAT 600 and then the 850, the Renault 8 and 10 and the Hillman Imp. The French are not unused to this type of car with the easier Renault

ACV

and

achieve

Dauphine, good

sales

and SIMCA in this

sector.

thought Many

cularly to Africa, they were built under license all over the world, and they achieved considerable competition success, for the engine is no mean performer. There is good reason to suppose that it is this model which boosted the SIMCA company to a state of profit in the sixties. Much was therefore achieved from a fairly uninspiring, humble car. In fairness

the

car

has been

1962 to the production

model

considerably

developed

since

of today. The engine has been

enlarged from 944cc, through 1118cc to 1294cc. Interior appointments have greatly improved whilst reliability, always good,

has not

suffered.

Disc brakes

are available,

a semi-auto-

that they might well

matic (an unhappy feature) can be fitted as an option, and a very

were

fast ‘rally striped’ version is for sale.

exported,

parti-

About this manual The aim of this book is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in two ways. First it can help you decide what work must be done, even should you choose to get it done by a garage; the routine maintenance and the diagnosis and course of action when random faults occur, But it is hoped that you will also use the second and fuller purpose by tackling the work yourself. This can give you the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. On the simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, much money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover their labour and overheads. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step by step sequence so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. Such a person is the very one to buy a car needing repair yet be unable to afford garage costs. The jobs are described assuming only normal spanners are available, and not special tools. But a reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment. Many special workshop tools produced by the makers merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job without them, the oft quoted example being the use of a large hose clip to compress the piston rings for insertion in the cylinder. But ona very few occasions the special tool is essential to prevent damage to components, then their use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool, such work may have to be entrusted

to the official agent. To avoid labour costs a garage will often give a cheaper repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair

using only a minor spare part. The classic case is repairing a non-charging dynamo by fitting new brushes. The manufacturer's official workshop manuals are written for their trained staff, and so assume special knowledge; detail is left out. This book is written for the owner, and so goes into detail.

The

book

is divided

into eleven

Chapters.

Each

Chapter

is

divided into numbered sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each section consists of serially numbered paragraphs.

There

are two

types

of illustration:

(1) Figures which are

numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. (2) Photographs which have a reference number on their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference figure pinpoints the pertinent section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and section number

thus: Chapter 1/16. It is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is e.g., ‘Chapter 1/5:5'. Cross references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter, e.g., ‘see Section

8’ means also ‘in this Chapter’. When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if looking forward. Great effort has been made to ensure that this book is complete and up to date. The manufacturers continually modify their cars, even in retrospect. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in

or omissions from the information given.

Contents Chapter

Section

Page

Introduction Ordering Spare Parts Routine Maintenance

5 6 7

Section

Page

Lubrication Chart Recommended Lubricants and Fluids

1

Engine

Specifications General Description Removal Dismantling Examination and Renovation

13. 16 17. 19 28

Decarbonisation Reassembly Replacement in Car Fault Finding Chart

30 31 2H 39

2

Cooling System

Specifications General Description Draining, Flushing and Filling Radiator

43 43 45 46

Thermostat Water Pump Fan Belt Fault Finding Chart

46 46 48 49

3

Fuel System and Carburation and Exhaust

4

5

Ignition System

Clutch

Specifications

51

Carburettors

53

General Description Fuel Tank Air Filter

52 52 53

Fuel Pump Exhaust System Fault Finding Chart

59 62 64

Specifications General Description

65 66

70 71

Contact Points Distributor

68 68

Ignition Timing Sparking Plugs and HT Leads Coil Faults - Symptoms, Reasons, Remedies

72 72

Specifications General Description Master and Slave Cylinders Pedal Adjustment

73 73 75 76

Clutch Removal Operating Lever and Thrust Bearing Fault Diagnosis Modifications

76 79 79

6 Gearbox and Transmission Unit Manual and Automatic

General Description Transmission Removal Dismantling Differential - Dismantling

82 82 83 86

Reassembly Fault Finding Chart Automatic Transmission Torque Converter

87 90 91 94

7

General Description Drive Shafts

Drive Shaft, Hubs, Wheels and Tyres

Rear Wheel

Hubs

79

99 100 100

Front Wheel Hubs Wheels Tyres

102 102 102

Wheel Alignment Rear Suspension Fault Finding Chart

114 11S 116

8

Suspension and Steering

Specifications Front Suspension and Steering Rack and Pinion Steering

105 106 111

9

Braking System

Specifications General Description Adjustment

117 117 118

Handbrake

121

Bleeding Hydraulic

Disc Pads

122

Fault Finding Chart

128

Specifications General Description Battery Dynamo Alternator Starter Motor

129 130 130 130 132 133

Direction Indicators Windscreen Wiper Headiights and Bulbs Front, Side and Flasher Lights Instrument Panel and Instruments Fault Diagnosis

136 136 138 138 142 141

General Description

157

Maintenance Body Repairs Doors

157 158 160

10 Electrical System

11 Bodywork, Underframe and Heater

Metric Conversion Tables

~~ Hydraulic Pipes ~~ Slave Cylinders Master Cylinder

~~ Glass

Wing Removal Dashboard Heater

123 124 125 System

127

163

163 165 165 167

Use of English (American Glossary)

169

List of Line Illustrations

170

Index

17

ary

epee

1972 SIMCA RALLYE

1

Introduction The aim of this book is to help owners of a SIMCA 1000 who wish to carry out their own maintenance and repair work, perform their tasks efficiently and effectively. The step by step photographs show how to deal with major repair tasks, and should with the text and ‘exploded’ illustrations make all the work quite clear - even to the novice who has never attempted the more complex job. Regular and diligent maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. It is the practice of J.H.Haynes and Company Limited to procure an example of the car with which the projected manual will deal. The car is dismantled at their workshop by the chief mechanic, a photographer and the author. They examine all the facets of the tasks which the reader might expect to do, and

photographs are taken to help illustrate essential points from the

text. From practical experience therefore, we have found that the SIMCA 1000 is not a particularly difficult car to maintain, and fortunately for you, the owner of a 1000, we found that few special tools were required to complete all the repair and maintenance tasks covered in this book. It must be stated however, that where special tools were required, the reader is advised to make them for himself; SIMCA dealers we have found, do not have the full range of Simca tools and those which they do have, are not loaned out! We hope that you will find the SIMCA 1000 as it has been popularly described a ‘French fun car’ which performs its intended functions well, and enjoy many trouble-free miles in it.

Ordering spare parts Always obtain genuine SIMCA Replacement Parts, as they are manufactured strictly to the design requirements with regard to function and conformity to mating parts on your car. When ordering new parts it is essential that you can tell the storeman not only the model of SIMCA 1000 you own, but also the engine number, chassis number, and transaxle number if

necessary. The

many

engine

changes

of the SIMCA

since

1000 particularly, has undergone

it was first introduced

in 1962, and

it is

essential that you obtain spare parts which account for the relevant changes. If at all possible it is always a good idea to take

along the part to be replaced, to be a final check on the integrity of the spare part collected. The chassis number is stamped on a plate attached to the bulkhead panel inside the front luggage compartment. The engine number is situated on the right hand side of the cylinder block above the water pump arm. On early models of the 1000, the engine number is stamped on the cylinder block above the timing cover. The location of the chassis number may also be on a plate situated on the left hand side of the engine compartment.

Body number on rear panel under boot lid on later models of the ‘1000 7 Manufacturers nameplate 2 Chassis number and chassis number

The location of the engine number

Routine maintenance Diligent inspection and maintenance should be regarded as absolutely essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the purpose of obtaining economy and performance from the car. The maintenance instructions listed are those recommended by SIMCA but they are supplemented by tasks which experience has shown need to be carried out.

Weekly, before a long journey, or every 250 miles

1 ENGINE Check the level of the engine oil, adding Castrol GTX as necessary until the level reaches the high mark on the dipstick. 2

BATTERY Check the level of electrolyte in the battery and top up with distilled water as necessary. Make sure that the top of the battery is always kept clean and free from moisture.

RM1

7 Radiator Assy. 3 > Ignition distributor

2 4

ane

\\

Engine oil dipstick Oil filler cap

3

RADIATOR Check the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant should be between % inch and 1% inch above the radiator core top. Add antifreeze solution or plain water as necessary. Remember if the engine is hot, only turn the filler cap one quarter

of a turn

at first, to allow the system

then press the cap downwards remove.

Ae

to lose pressure:

and turn past the safety notch to

RES: Check the tyre pressures with an accurate gauge and adjust as

necessary. Inspect the tyre walls and treads for damage; remember that the law requires the tread should be at least 1 mm deep across three quarters of the width of the tread around the whole periphery of the tyre.

:

RM2_

5

HYDRAULIC FLUID RESERVOIR Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir for the brake and clutch systems. It should be between the ‘max-min’ marks on the side of the reservoir, if it needs replenishing weekly check both clutch and brake hydraulic systems for leaks. 6

WHEEL BOLTS Check the tightness of the wheel bolts; do not over-tighten.

7

WINDSCREEN

Location‘ef windscreen

ve

Nt

a

108

wash reservoir and battery in recent

models of the~1000. The battery was on the RH side of the engine compartment on early models of the ‘1000.

WASHER

Refill the windscreen

washer bottle with soft water. Add an

antifreeze satchet in cold weather. (DO NOT USE ORDINARY ANTIFREEZE). Check that the jets operate clearly and accurately.

8

LIGHTS, WIPERS, HORNS Check for satisfactory functioning of all electrical systems on your car, including brake lights and ‘winkers’.

RM3

Max and min marks on the hydraulic fluid reservoir located in the luggage compartment

8

Routine maintenance

Every 3000 miles 1 2

A 250 mile check ENGINE SIMCA advise that the engine oil be changed every 3000 miles, or even more frequently if operating conditions are particularly arduous. Drain the sump when the engine is hot; a container of at least 5 pints will be required to collect, the oil. The drain plug is

unscrewed by a 12 mm Allen key. Once the oil has been drained, replace the drain plug in the sump, and fill the engine to the max mark on the dipstick with

Castrol GTX oil. Run the engine again for a few minutes and re-check the level of engine oil, topping up as necessary.

a 1082

RM4_ .

3

{J

Engine oil drain plug

ay)

\z

Fig.1/7 General assembly of cylinder head

FIG.1/8 315 ENGINE

LUBRICATION

Centrifugal filter Oil pump

Sump

Camshaft (centre bearing) &Whon» QA Oil

pressure switch

FIG.1/9 349 ENGINE

LUBRICATION

Oil strainer and collector Oil pressure relief valve

Oil filter Oil pump Oil pump drive shaft QaA OhPlug

end for drive shaft location

24

Chapter 1/Engine 3

10 Oil strainer and oil pump feed pipe removal *315’ engine:— 1 The oil strainer and pipes are retained on the engine by two special bolts at the flange joint of the pipe to the timing chain cover. The strainer is retained by a third bolt on a bracket located on the central crankshaft main bearing cap. ° 2 It should be noted that one of the bolts which hold the pump feed pipe to the timing cover has a long lead on it. This bolt locks one of the crankshaft end oil seals located in the timing cover. 3 Later series engines:— The strainer is secured to the cylinder block by two screws below the pump fitting and a third bolt on the centre main bearing cap. 11 Oil pump removal - ‘315’ and ‘349’ engine 1 The oil pump is situated on the end of the camshaft on the timing chain cover. The pump housing which is secured to the chain cover by six bolts also incorporates a pressure relief valve. After unscrewing the six bolts the pump housing and gears may

be removed from the timing chain cover (photo). 2 349’, ‘351’, ‘359’, ‘371° engines. The oil pump is situated low down on the left hand side of the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a shaft running transversely from the camshaft across to the pump. 3 On this series of engines 998cc; 1118cc, 777cc and 1298cc the pump consists of a main body enclosing the gears that pump the oil, and a cover which incorporates the relief valve together with the fitting for the oil filter. The body and cover are secured to the cylinder block by six bolts two shorter than the others. 4 Once the 6 bolts are removed, the pump assembly may be withdrawn from the engine. The transverse shaft may be removed after first unscrewing the bolt and lifting away the plug end which had been uncovered when the water pump was removed. 5 The transverse shaft is withdrawn from the water pump side of the engine; the gear which meshes with the camshaft and which drives the pump drive shaft is a splined fit, held in place

by a““TRU ARC” ring. 6 Oil pressure relieve valves. On all types of engine the relief valve is incorporated in the pump cover. On the early ‘315’ engines the valve acted to recirculate the oil in the pump, then

on the later engines the ‘349’, ‘351’, ‘359’, and ‘371’ the valve acts to discharge the high pressure oil directly back to the sump. 7 The removal of the relief valve for the ‘315’ engine is accomplished by unscrewing the end bolt and withdrawing the spring, and valve piece. 8 The removal of the relief valve for the later series of engines with the pump situated on the cylinder block, requires the slackening of the nut which locks the relief valve bolt and then the unscrewing of the bolt with a 6 mm Allen key. Once the bolt has been withdrawn the actuating spring and valve can be extracted trom the pump cover.

12 Timing chain, sprocket, wheel and camshaft removal 1 The timing crankshaft are secured to the 2 Before the filter if fitted

chain, camshaft, wheel and drive sprocket on the enclosed in an aluminium alloy cover, which is cylinder block by ten bolts. timing cover can be removed the centrifugal oil or the crankshaft pulley must be removed. Section

8 of this chapter covers the centrifugal oil filter removal. The crankshaft pulley is removed after unscrewing the central bolt. It may be necessary to lever the pulley off the crankshaft with a couple of screwdrivers, but it is supposed to be a slide fit over the shaft. Once the filter/pulley or pulley has been removed, the freeing of the timing cover is straightforward on all engines. Un screw and withdraw the ten bolts which hold the timing cover in place, lightly tap the cover with a mallet to break the gaskets’

seal and lift the cover clear (photo).

On ‘315’ engines the timing cover is fitted with an oil seal as

well as two oil retainers. The purpose of the retainers is to channel the oil which is being driven under pressure from the pump through to the centrifugal filter housing. The retainers are

held apart by a spring and each is fitted with an ‘O’ ring seal on its periphery. The seal and retainers are removed seal first, outer retainer next, then inner retainer with a drift and a light mallet. Be careful not to drive the retainers skew in the timing cover, as both cover and retainer are made of soft metal. Finally the washer on the crankshaft next to the sprocket is removed

(photos). 4 On the later series engines the cover is simpler and is only fitted with a conventional oil seal for the crankshaft. Again this seal can be tapped out with a drift and light mallec. 5 With the timing cover clear, the three bolts which secure the chain wheel to the camshaft may be unscrewed after tapping clear the tags on the locking washer. The drive sprocket, chains and chain wheel may then be removed together. The sprocket is a slide fit on the crankshaft, but if jammed will require a puller. On the ‘315’ engines it will now be possible to extract the cam-

shaft from the cylinder block (photo). 6 With the later series engines the end thrust of camshaft is taken by a forked plate which is retained to the cylinder block by two bolts. Once these bolts have been removed, the camshaft on these engines can be extracted.

13 Flywheel wheel removal Two patterns of flywheel have been fitted to this engine, but all are retained to the crankshaft by 6 bolts locked by a tab washer ring. The sequence for removal, therefore, is to tap the tabs clear of the bolt heads and unscrew the bolts. The flywheel may then

be lifted off the crankshaft (photo).

14 Pistons and con-rod removal - big ends 1 It is possible to remove the big end bearings, pistons and connecting rods from the engine with the engine still in the car; provided that the sump has been removed in all cases, and the cylinder head for the connecting rods and pistons. The tasks are much easier if the engine is out of the car, but it is recognised that if a quick emergency repair job is to be done, where speed is the esserce, then it would be in order to complete the work with the engine in the car. 2 With the sump removed and the crankshaft exposed, each of the big end bearing caps can be detached. Remove the two nuts and their locking washers which hold each cap to the connecting rod. Rotate the crankshaft to bring each connecting rod cap suitably in position for unscrewing the nuts. 3 With the nuts removed, each big end bearing cap can be pulled off. It must be noted that the connecting rod and big end caps are marked with a small punch mark on the end of the connecting rod and cap which matches up each one. If the same connecting rods and caps are to be re-used, they must be replaced exactly as they came out (photo). The same applies to the big end shells which may be released as soon as the connecting rods are detached from the crankshaft. It is inadvisable to re-use these shells anyway, but if they are removed they must be put back in exactly the same location from which they came. 4 If any difficulty is experienced in removing the big end bearing caps, then they may be gently tapped with a soft faced hammer. 5 To remove bearing shells, press the shell opposite the groove in both connecting rod and caps and the bearings will slide out easily. 6 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods through the top of the cylinder block and ensure that they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore. It is a good idea to refit the connecting rod caps back to their respective connecting rods to minimise risk of muddles later.

11.1 ‘315’ Engine oil pump removal

12.5 Extraction of camshaft from the cylinder block

11.1a°315’ Engine oil pump removal

13.1 Lifting off the flywheel from the crankshaft

12.2 Lifting away the timing cover

14.3 The big end cap and connecting rod identification marks

oe. 12.3 The oil retainers housed in the timing cover on ‘315’ engine

26

Chapter 1/Engine

15 Gudgeon pin removal

8 Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the bearing shells and thrust washers which can be extracted and placed over the correct bearing cap.

1

9

It must be stated that our experiences of removing and refit-

ting gudgeon pins on this type of SIMCA engine have not been happy ones! The pins are an interference fit with the pistons, ('315’ engine) and for assembly and removal the pistons will

need to be heated to between 80°C and 100°C. On ‘349’ series engines the pins are an interference fit with the small end of the

con-rod; necessitating temperatures of 250°C to free the pin. Most large garages and workshops have plant such as fly presses and oil baths which simplify and increase the likelihood of success with the task. 2 When the piston and connecting rod assembly have been heated in an oil bath to the required temperature, the assembly is quickly transferred to the bench were the piston is placed over two pieces of wood which allow the gudgeon pin to be pushed

out with a soft metal drift. 3 To remove the gudgeon No.20869H;

first remove

pin with the special tool SIMCA the nut. Leave the spacer on the tool

and insert the centre shaft through the centre of the gudgeon pin. Refit the nut. 4 Heat the piston and rod assembly as before, shoulder the piston as before and hammer drift to remove the gudgeon pin. 16 Piston ring removal

1 To remove the piston rings slide them carefully over the top of the piston, taking care not to scratch the surface of the piston which is aluminium alloy. Never slide them over the bottom of the piston skirt. 11 is very easy to break the cast iron rings if they are pulled off roughly so this operation must be done with extreme care. It is helpful to make use of an old feeler gauge:— 2 Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed out of its groove and insert the end of the feeler gauge under it. 3 Turn the feeler gauge slowly round the piston and as the ring comes out of its groove apply slight upward pressure so that it rests on the ridge above. It can then be eased off the piston with the feeler gauge stopping it from slipping into any empty

grooves.

17 Crankshaft, main bearing and rear oil seal carrier removal

1 If the task is to remove the crankshaft only, so that the main bearings may be reconditioned for example, it should be possible to complete the task after removing the engine from the car, separating it from the gearbox unit, removing the sump, timing chain cover, oil pump feed strainer, flywheel and clutch, and

Lift away the crankshaft (photo).

18 Cylinder head removal - engine in car

To remove the cylinder head with the engine in the car the following procedures should be completed before those listed in the previous section. 1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery positive and negative terminals. 2 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the cooling system. 3 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the carburettor and air cleaner. 4 Detach the cable from the temperature indicator sender unit. 5 Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the thermostat elbow, top hose and inlet manifold heating hoses. 6 Remove the spark plug leads - identify as necessary. 7 Undo and remove the five nuts and washers securing the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. 8 Slacken the dynamo/alternator pivot bolt and unscrew the top fan belt tension adjusting bolt, to allow the fan belt to be removed and the dynamo/alternator to be swung downwards clear of the cylinder head. 9 The procedure is now as listed in the previous section for when the engine is out of the car it may be useful if the cylinder head proves obstinate and cannot be freed, to reconnect the battery only - disconnect all distributor leads - and operate the starter motor. The compressed air in the cylinders should lift the cylinder head off the block. 19 Valve rocker gear - removal and dismantling

1 It should be noted that the bolts which secure the rocker pedestals to the cylinder head also secure the head to the cylinder block. The reader is urged never to contemplate remov-

ing the rocker gear without removing the whole cylinder head as well. The procedure for valve rocker gear removal is therefore that for removal of the cylinder head. 2 To dismantle the rocker assembly, pull the shafts apart, and drive the mecanindus pins out of middle pedestals on the shafts thus allowing the pedestals, springs and rockers to ve removed off the shafts. Keep in the order in which the parts were removed so that they can be reassembled in the original positions. 3 The interior drillings of the rocker shaft should be cleaned to ensure that there should be no sludge build up which would restrict oil flow.

crankshaft pulley, timing chain and drive sprocket. The rear oil seal carrier is removed after unscrewing the five bolts which

20 Valves removal and valve guides

secure it to the cylinder block (photo).

1 The valves can be removed from the cylinder head by the following method:— With a valve spring compressor, compress each spring in turn until the two halves of the collets can be

2 Check the crankshaft endfloat using feeler gauges placed between the crankshaft main journal bearing wall and the thrust washers. Move the crankshaft forwards as far as it will go using a couple of tyre levers to obtain a maximum reading. The endfloat should be between 0.005 and 0.010 inches (0.12 and 0.25 mm).

Oversize thrust washers are available. 3 Note markings or mark on the main bearing caps to ensure correct replacement. 4 Undo by one turn the bolts which hold down the five bearing caps. 5 Unscrew the bolts and remove them together with the

washers (if fitted). 6 Remove the main bearing caps and the half bearing shells in these caps. Take care to keep the shells with their caps if it is intended to re-use them. Like big end shells if the engine has been dismantled this far; it is false economy to re-use old shells

(photo). 7 When removing the centre bearing cap note the bottom semicircular halves of the thrust washers, one half lying on either side of the main bearing. Lay then with the centre bearing along the correct side.

removed.

Release the compressor

and remove the valve spring

cap, spring, lower seating and finally the valve. 2 If when the valve spring compressor is screwed down the valve spring cap refuses to free and expose the split collets, do not continue to screw down on the compressor as it may become damaged. 3 Gently tap the tool directly over the cap with a light hammer; this should free the cap. It is essential to hold the compressor firmly in position when the cap is being tapped, to prevent the compressor from jumping of the spring cap. 4 To ensure compatibility of the valve components, on reassembly of the cylinder head, place the eight sets on a sheet of card having the corresponding positions the valves were in, when fitted. 5 The valve guides are an interference fit in the cylinder head and they are not generally removed. The procedure to renovate the guides is to ream them to the next oversize bore and fit oversize stem valves - This operation should be entrusted to your

local SIMCA agent.

17.6 The main bearing caps are lifted clear

17.1 Crankshaft rear oil seal carrier

17.9 Lift away the crankshaft

Y~—~-—-—~#‘gan

removal

fais Sees ni Re aif ss es

FIG.1/10 VALVE GEAR 1 2 3 vt

Tappets Pushrods Rockers

c is)$ s Ny + < © &

& S 8 %==

as)2 Q

a s

6 7

S

e

2

8 9

Rocker shaft Pedestal locating dowel Valve guide Valve seat

10 Valve

Fig.1/11 Valve gear assy

8

Chapter 1/Engine +

21 Lubrication ‘315’ engine 1

The lubrication is by a forced feed. Oil is fed under pressure

to the crankshaft, camshaft and the rocker shaft. Connecting rod small ends, piston barrels, cams and pushrods etc., are splash lubricated. 2 The sump is the oil reservoir, and the level of oil in the sump is monitored with the dipstick. The level of the oil should be between the ‘Max-Min’ marks on the stick. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the rocker cover. 3 The gear type oil pump is bolted onto the timing cover and is driven directly from the camshaft. The pump draws oil up from the sump through the strainer, and feeds it under pressure to the centrifugal filter. The oil reaches the filter via a counter bore in

engine from the camshaft. The pump draws oil from the sump through the strainer and feeds it under pressure to the cartridge oil filter. 4 Once filtered the oil passes through drillings to the centre bearing of the crankshaft and through drillings in the camshaft to the other main bearings and big end bearings. 5 Oil is supplied to the camshaft from the first, third and fifth main bearing. The rocker shaft is supplied with oil under pressure from the centre camshaft bearing.

6

The low oil pressure sender unit which operates at 8.7 psi —

1.5 psi (0.6 bar — 0.1). is fitted to a drilling from the forward (flywheel end) camshaft bearing.

25 Full flow cartridge oil filter ‘349’ type engines

the filter/pulley hub end of the crankshaft. 4 Once filtered the oil goes through drillings in the crankshaft to the main and big end bearings. 5

Oil is supplied to the camshaft from the first, third and fifth

main

bearings.

The

rocker

shaft

is supplied

with

oil under

pressure from the centre camshaft bearing.

6

The low oil pressure sender unit is fitted to a drilling from

the forward (flywheel end) camshaft bearing.

22 Centrifugal oil filter “315° engine The oil filter should

be dismantled

and cleaned yearly - or

12,000 miles. 41 Undo and remove the six securing bolts and lift away the cover, 2 Wash the hub/pulley in paraffin and carefully wipe dry. Take care not to allow paraffin to pass down the centre of the crankshaft.

3 Inspect the rubber ‘O’ ring and if it shows signs of perishing or hardening it should be removed. Whenever possible a new ‘O’ ring should be oil leaks. 4 Inspect the damage, cracks be obtained. 5 Reassembly six bolts etc.

obtained to prevent the possibility of subsequent

baffle ring, cover and hub/pulley for signs of or distortion and if evident a replacement should is the reverse sequence

1 The external oil filter is of the disposable cartridge type and is located on the pump cover on the left hand side of the engine. 2 Before removing the cartridge place an absorbent cloth around the base to catch the oil released from the cartridge when it has been unscrewed. 3 To renew the oil filter unscrew the old cartridge from the filter head. Smear the seal on the new filter with a little oil and Position it on the filter head. Screw it on and tighten with the hands only. Do not attempt to tighten with a spanner or strap wrench.

to removal. Torque the

26 Oil pressure relief valve ‘349’ type engines = The purpose of the valve is as the ‘315’ engine, and the valve is situated in the pump cover as before. 2 The vale may be identified externally by a large hexagonal nut on a bolt with an Allen key (6 mm) head. 3 To dismantle unscrew the nut and then the bolt. Extract the spring and ball valve. 4 Check that all parts are clean. If a new spring is available the length of the original may be checked. 5 Refit the relief valve assembly and tighten bolt. Connect an oil pressure gauge to oil pressure sender unit point, and adjust relief valve bolt position so that valve opens at pressures between

58—86 psi (4 and 6 bars).

23 Oil pressure relief valve ‘315’ engine

27 Engine - examination and renovation - general

1 To prevent excessive oil pressure - for example, when the engine is cold, an oil pressure relief valve is built into the pump cover and acts to recirculate the oil in the pump. 2 The valve is identified externally by a large hexagonal head brass bolt. 3 To dismantle the unit unscrew the bolt, and extract the

With the engine stripped and all parts thoroughly every component should be examined for wear.

spring and valve piece (with a slim magnet).

28 Crankshaft - examination and renovation

4 Check that all parts are clean. If a new spring is available the length of the original spring may be checked.

5 Refit the relief valve assembly and tighten the bolt. If an oil pressure gauge is available the valve should operate at 43 psi (3

to 3.5 kg/cm2) cylindrical valve and 71 psi (5 kg/cm2) ball relief valve.

24 Lubrication 349’, ‘349S’, 351’ and ‘361’ engines 1 The lubrication system is a force feed type; oil is fed under pressure to the crankshaft, camshaft, oil pump drive shaft and rocker shaft. Connecting rod small ends, piston barrels, cams and pushrods etc., are splash lubricated. 2 As with the ‘315’ engine the sump is the oil reservoir, and the level of the oil is monitored with the dipstick. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the rocker cover.

3 The gear type oil pump is situated on the cylinder block on the left hand side, some inches below the exhaust manifold. The pump is driven by a shaft which runs transversely across the

cleaned,

The items mentioned in the following Sections should be checked and, where necessary, renewed or renovated as described.

1 With cleaned,

the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly it is now time to examine everything for wear. The

following items should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated as described in the following paragraphs: 2 Examine the crank pin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches, check the ovality of the crank pins at different positons with a micrometer. If more than 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) out of round, the crank pins will have to be reground. They will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches. Check the journals in the same fashion. 3 Measure the diameter of the crank pins and journals and check that they are within the limits stated in the specification

at the beginning of this Chapter. 29 Big end and main bearings - examination and renovation 1 Big end bearing failure is accompanied by noisy knocking from the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearing

Chapter 1/Engine failure is accompanied by vibration which can be quite severe as the engine speed rises and falls, and a drop in oil pressure.

2 Bearings which have not broken up but are badly worn, will give rise to low oil pressure and some vibration. Inspect the big ends, main bearings and thrust washers for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and scratches. The bearings should be matt grey

29

2 Before fitting the rings on the pistons each should be inserted approximately 3 inches down the cylinder bore and the gap in the ring measured with a feeler gauge. This should be as detailed in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. It is essential that the gap is measured at the bottom of ring travel as, if it

irrespective of bearing wear. Normally, crankshaft wear is infinitesimal and regular changes of bearings will ensure mileages in excess of 100,000 miles (160,000 kms) before crankshaft re-

is measured at the top of the worn bore and gives a perfect fit, it could easily seize at the bottom. If the ring gap is too small rub down the ends of the ring with a very fine file until the gap, when fitted, is correct. To keep the rings square in the bore for measurement, line each up in turn with an old piston in the bore upside down, and use the piston to push the ring down about 3 inches. Remove the piston and measure the piston ring gap. 3 When fitting new pistons and rings to a rebored engine the ring gap can be measured at the top of the bore, as the bore will now not taper. It is not necessary to measure the side clearance in the piston ring grooves with the rings fitted, as the groove dimensions are accurately machined during manufacture. When fitting new oil control piston rings it may be necessary to have the grooves widened by machining to accept new wider rings. In this instance the manufacturer’s representative will make this quite clear and will supply the address to which the pistons must be sent for machining.

grinding becomes necessary. Crankshafts normally reground because of scoring due to bearing failure.

4 When new pistons are fitted take great care to fit the exact size best suited to the particular bore of your engine. SIMCA go

in colour. With lead-indium bearings, should a trace of copper colour be noticed, the bearings are badly worn as the lead bearing material has been worn away to expose the indium underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in this condition or if there is any sign of scoring or pitting. 3 The undersizes available are designed to correspond with the regrind sizes, i.e. -0.020, —0.040 inch bearings are correct for a crankshaft reground undersize. The bearings are in fact slightly more than the stated undersize as running clearances have been allowed for during their manufacture. 4 Very long engine life can be achieved by changing big end

bearings at intervals of 30,000 miles (48,000 kilometres) and main bearings at intervals of 30,000 miles (48,000 kms)

have to be

30 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation

1 Cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores, if they are at all worn, a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston travel.

The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer, and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore which is not subject to wear. If the difference between the

two measurements is more than 0.0004 inch (0.010 mm) then it will be necessary to fit special piston rings or to have the cylinders rebored and fit oversize piston and rings. If no micrometer is available, remove the rings from the pistons and place the piston in each bore in turn about % inch below the top of the bore. If an 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) feeler gauge can be slid between the piston and. the cylinder wall on the thrust side of the bore, then remedial action must be taken. Oversize pistons are available. 3 These are accurately machined to just below their specified measurements, sO as to provide correct running clearances in bores bored out to the exact oversize dimensions. 4 lf the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn as to justify reboring them, special oil control rings can be fitted to the existing pistons which will restore the compression and stop the engine burning oil. Several different types are available and

the manufacturer’s instructions concerning their fitting must be followed closely.

31 Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation 1 If the old pistons are to be refitted, carefully remove the piston rings and then thoroughly clean them. Take particular care to clean out the piston ring grooves. At the same time do not scratch the aluminium in any way. If new rings are to be fitted to the old pistons, then the top ring should be stepped so as to clear the ridge left above the previous top ring. If a normal but oversize new ring is to be fitted it will hit this ridge in the cylinder bore and break, because the new ring will not have worn in the same way as the old - which will have worn in unison with the ridge.

one stage further than merely specifying one size of piston for all standard bores. Because of very slight differences in cylinder machining during production, it is necessary to select just the right piston for the bore. A range of different sizes are available either from the piston manufacturers or the SIMCA dealer. 5 Examination of the cylinder block face will show adjacent to each bore the grade of the bore A, B or C and any oversize. Note, ‘315 engines pistons and cylinders are not graded. It is always wise to check with your local SIMCA agent the selection of pistons you have made.

32 Camshaft vation

and

camshaft

bearings - examination

and

reno-

1 Carefully examine camshaft bearings for wear, if the bearings are obviously worn or pitted or the metal underlay is just

showing through. then they must be removed. This operation is for your local SIMCA agent, or automobile engineering works, as it demands the use of specialised equipment. The bearings are removed using a special drift after which the new bearings are pressed in, care being taken that the oil holes in the bearings line up with those in the block. With another special tool the bear-

ings are then reamed and fitted. 2 The camshaft itself should show no signs of wear but if very slight scoring marks on the cams are noticed, the score marks can only be removed by very gentle rubbing down witha very fine emery cloth or oil stone. The greatest care should be taken to keep the cam profiles smooth.

33 Valves and seats - examination and renovation

1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seating should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on the valve and seats is very slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the valves and seats together with coarse then fine valve grinding paste. Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats, it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two jobs should be entrusted to the local SIMCA agent, or automobile engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they will require renewal. Normally, it is the valve that is too badly worn for replacement and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding.

2

Valve grinding is carried out as follows:—

30

:

Chapter 1/Engine

Place the cylinder head upside down on the bench with a block of wood at each end, to give clearance to the valve stems. Alternatively place the head at 45° to a wall with the combustion chambers facing away from the wall. 3 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve heads as shown in the photo. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seats faces, the grinding operation is finished. 4 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. Thoroughly clean them out, removing all traces of sludge. It is most unlikely that the sides of the tappets will be worn, but, if they are a very loose fit in their bores and can be readily rocked they should be discarded and new tappets fitted. It is very unusual to find worn tappets and any wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages.

37 Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation 1 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring gear are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring. This is achieved by splitting the old ring using a cold chisel.

The greatest care must be taken not to damage the flywheel during this process. 2 To fit a new ring gear, heat it gently and evenly with an oxyacetylene flame until a temperature of approximately 350°C is reached. This is indicated by a light metallic blue surface colour, With the ring gear at this temperature, fit it to the flywheel with the front of the teeth facing the flywheel register. The ring gear should be either pressed or lightly tapped gently on to its register and left to cool naturally, when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent

34 Timing gears and chain - examination and renovation 1 Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft gear wheel and the camshaft gear wheel for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted ‘V’ with the gear wheel periphery and if worn, the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared with the other side of the tooth, i.e. one side of the inverted ‘V’ will be concave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the gear wheels must be renewed. 2 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and renew the chain if any slackness if noticeable when compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about

30,000 miles (48,000 km) and a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.

35 Rockers and rocker shaft - examination and renovation

1 Thoroughly clean out the rocker shaft. As it acts as the oil passages for the valve gear clean out the oil holes and make sure they are quite clear. Check the shaft for straightness by rolling it

on a flat surface.

It is most

unlikely that it will deviate from

normal, but, if it does, then a judicious attempt must be made to straighten it. If this is not successful purchase a new shaft. The surface of the shaft should be free from any worn ridges caused by the rocker arms. If any wear is present renew the rocker shaft. Wear is likely to have occurred only if the rocker shaft oil holes have been blocked.

2 Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem, and for wear of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake. If any shake is present, and the arm is very loose on the shaft, remedial action must be taken. It is recommended that any worn rocker arm be taken to your local SIMCA agent or automobile engineering works to have the old bush drawn out and a new bush fitted. 3 Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve

head, for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. If none is present the rocker arm may be refitted. Check the pushrods

for straightness by rolling them on a flat surface.

36 Tappets - examination and renovation Examine the bearing surface of the tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any indentation in this surface or any crack indicates

fit. Great care must be taken not to overheat the ring gear, as if this happens its temper will be lost. 3 Alternatively, your local SIMCA agent, or local automobile engineering works may have a suitable oven in which the ring gear can be heated. The normal domestic oven will give a temperature of about 250°C only, at the very most, except for the latest self-cleaning type, which will give a higher temperature. With the former it may just be possible to fit the ring gear with it at this temperature, but it is unlikely and no great force should have to be used. 38 Cylinder head decarbonisation 1 This operation can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car. With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a wire brush and blunt scraper all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and ports. The valve stems are valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule or a similar article. Take care not to scratch the surfaces. 2 Clean the pistons and top of cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the cylinder bores then it is essential that great care is

taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bore as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure that this does not happen first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of the bore. Place clean non-fluffy rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The water ways and push rod holes should also be covered with a small piece of masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump or entering the lubrication system and causing damage to a bearing surface.

3 There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon ought to be removed from the piston crown. One is that a ring of carbon should be left around the edge of the piston and on the cylinder bore wall as an aid to keep oil consumption low. Although this is probably true for early engines with worn bores, on later engines the tendency is to remove all traces of carbop during decarbonisation. 4 lf all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon buildup the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish such as

Chapter 1/Engine

31

ET EEETEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEER EERE

“Brasso’. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place non-fluffy rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. Do not forget the water ways and oil ways as well. Proceed as previously described. 5 If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston then this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on the piston and ensure that carbon is not accidentally removed. Check that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonising is now complete.

39 Valve guides - examination and renovation 1 Examine the valve guides internally for wear. If the valves are a very loose fit in the guides and there is the slightest suspicion of lateral rocking, the valve guides will need reboring and oversize stem valves fitted. This operation should be entrusted to your SIMCA agent or local automobile workshop.

6 Smear some grease onto the plain sides of the upper halves of the thrust washers and carefully place them in their recesses. 7 Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells, and carefully lower the crankshaft into position. Make sure that it is the right way round. 8 Lubricate the crankshaft journals, injecting oil into the oil ways to ensure adequate lubrication upon the initial start of the engine. 9 Fit the main bearing caps into position ensuring that they locate properly. The mating surfaces must be spotlessly clean or the caps will not seat correctly. 10 When replacing the centre main bearing cap ensure that the thrust washers, generously lubricated, are fitted with their oil grooves facing outwards and the locating tab of each washer in

the slot in the bearing cap. 11 Replace the main bearing cap bolts and screw them up finger tight. 12 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be very stiff to turn, or possess high spots, a most careful inspection must be made, preferably by a skilled mechanic with a michrometer to trace the cause of the trouble. It is very seldom that

any trouble of this nature will be experienced when crankshaft.

40 Engine reassembly - general

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must every part be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean. All the oil ways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins renew any bolts or studs whose threads are damaged in any way; whenever possible use new spring washers.

13 Tighten the main bearing bolts to a torque of 48 Ib f. ft (6.5 mdaN)

and

recheck

the crankshaft

for freedom

(photo)

2 Apart from your normal tools, a supply of non-fluffy rag, an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty washing-up fluid plastic bottle thoroughly cleaned and-washed out will do just as well), a

supply of new spring washers, a set of new gaskets, and a torque wrench should be collected together.

41 Crankshaft replacement

Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all oil ways are clear. A thin twist drill is useful for cleaning them out.

If possible blow them out with compressed air. Treat the crankshaft in the same fashion and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oil ways. Commence work on rebuilding the engine by replacing the crankshaft and main bearings.

1

If the old main

economy

bearing

shells are to be replaced

not to do, unless they are virtually

(a false

&

new), make sure

that the correct size shells are used. On the ‘315’ engine the big end shells and main bearing shells will be selected according to

41.4 Five upper bearings shells in place

the crankpin and journal size - that is standard or undersize. On the ‘349’ and subsequent engines SIMCA use graded shells for each size of bearing. There are two grades of shell - blue and red. Inspect the connecting rods and crankshaft - the grade is indicated by a paint spot by each bearing. If there is a red spot on the connecting rod and the suiting crankpin, use red shells - if a blue spot is on each, use blue shells. Finally if the gradings are different - one blue spot and one red spot to be suited, use 1 red shell and 1 blue shell. The same grading provisions apply to the main bearings and thrust bearing. The specification at the beginning of this Chapter sets out the particulars of these bearings and their tolerance grades. 2 Note that on the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main bearing cap housings. 3 If new bearings are being fitted, carefully wipe away all traces of protective grease with which they are coated. 4 With the five upper bearing shells in place ensure that oil ways are clear. Wipe the lower bearing cap housing and fit the five lower shell bearings to their caps ensuring that the right shell

goes into the right cap if old bearings are being refitted. (photo) 5 Wipe the recesses either side of the centre main bearing which locate the upper halves of the thrust washers.

fitting the

ge

&

41.13 Tightening up the main bearing bolts

of rotation.

32

Chapter 1/Engine

FIG.1/12 CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY 1 2 3

Pulley Key (woodruff)

Crankshaft

4 5 6

7 8

Thrust washers Typical bearing shell

9 Ring gear 10 Flywheel

Centre bush Oil seal housing

Oil seal

42 Camshaft and tappets - replacement 1 Make sure that the camshaft and bearing surfaces are really clean and well lubricate the camshaft. Insert the tappets into their respective bores in the cylinder block. 2 Carefully slide the camshaft into the cylinder block taking care that the sharp edges of the cam lobes do not damage the bearing insert finish.

3

Locate the camshaft with the forked end bearing plate with

the two bolts and to 10 Ib f. ft (1.5 mdaN). 4 The camshaft location on ‘315’ engines is endorsed by a bearing surface on the timing cover, therefore there cannot be a

definite location of the camshaft at this stage of engine assembly. 5 Turn the camshaft several times to make sure that it rotates freely in its bushings.

Fig.1/13 Orientation of piston rings. Gaps 120° apart

44 Piston and connecting rod assembly

43 Piston rings - replacement 1 Check that the piston ring grooves and oil ways are thoroughly clean and unblocked. Piston rings must always be fitted over the head of the piston and never from the bottom. 2 The easiest method to use when fitting rings is to wrap a

0.020 inch feeler gauge round the top of the piston and place the rings one at a time, starting from the bottom oil control ring, over the feeler gauge. 3 The feeler gauge, complete with ring can then be slid down the piston over the other piston ring grooves until the groove is reached. The piston ring is then slid gently off the feeler gauge into the groove. Set all ring gaps 120° to each other. 4 An alternative method to fit the rings is by holding them slightly open with the thumb and both index fingers. This method requires a steady hand and great care as it is easy to open the ring too much and break it. 5 The two top rings are suitably marked to ensure that they are not fitted the wrong way round. The lettering should be to the top of the piston.

1 On ‘315’ engines the gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the piston - it being necessary to heat the piston to 100°C before the pin can be pressed home. 2

On ‘349’ and subsequent

engines the gudgeon pin is an inter-

ference fit in the small end of the connecting rod. It is necessary to heat the connecting rod to 220°C - 250°C in an oil bath before the pin can be inserted. 3 Again the reader is advised that Automobile Workshops or your SIMCA dealer are better equipped for the task of refitting the gudgeon pin. SIMCA provide special sets of tools for the two types of assembly. 4 With either the piston or connecting rod heated as necessary, and the gudgeon pin assembly on the special SIMCA tool, carefully press the pin into the piston and connecting rod, until it is central in the piston and connecting rod. 5 It is essential that the piston is assembled on the connecting rod such that the connecting rod big end marks are on the right when the assembly is viewed with the mark recess on the piston bottom upwards.

33

Chapter 1/Engine

45 Connecting

rod, piston assembiy - reassembly on crankshaft

1 Compress the piston rings on the piston and insert the rod/piston assemblies through their appropriate cylinders. Then invert the engine to connect the connecting rod to the cranks-

haft. (photo) 2 Ensure that the piston/rod assembly is aligned correctly in the cylinder block. The number markings on the connecting rods and caps should be on the opposite side of the engine to the camshaft. 3 Wipe clean the connecting rod half of the big end bearing and the underside of the shell bearing. Fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding groove in the connecting rod. 4 If the old bearings are nearly new and are being refitted then ensure they are replaced in their correct locations in the correct rods. 5 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with engine oil, and turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous position for the connecting rod to be drawn into

45.1 Compressing the piston rings to facilitate insertion into cylinder bores

it.

6 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove in the connecting rod cap. 7 Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the connecting rod bearing cap to the connecting rod. (photo) 8 Screw nuts onto big end bolts and progressively tighten to a final torque as given in the specifications.

46 Timing gear, chain and cover - replacement 1 Wipe the nose of the crankshaft and refit the woodruff key. Make sure it is seating fully and parallel with the crank nose. 2 Using a tubular drift carefully tap the crankshaft sprocket home. No te that the sprocket machining is an assymetrical item and that the sprocket should be nearest the engine. 3 Turn the crankshaft so that the timing mark on the sprocket a dash - is pointing to the camshaft. 4 Put the timing chain on the sprocket and bring the camshaft chain wheel up and hold it to the camshaft with its timing mark -

a dot - towards the crankshaft. (photo) 5 Work the timing chain onto the camshaft wheel. Offer the wheel directly to the camshaft and recheck the alignment of the timing marks which now should be at their closest. (photo) 6 Turn the camshaft so that the bolts which secure the wheel to the shaft can be inserted. Tighten them to specified torque. Bend over the locking tabs onto the bolt heads. ~N

a)

On ‘315’ engines: It is now

necessary

to fit the crankshaft

end washer

on the

be,

46.4 Aligning the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket camshaft chain wheel

crank end, and the oil retainers and seal into the timing chain

cover. (photo) b) The

oil strainer

and

oil feed pipes need to be bolted to the

timing cover before the oil retainers are fitted because one of the bolts has a long lead which locates the oil retainer nearest the sprocket. c)

Insert the retainers outwards.

and

separating spring, with the oil paws

d) Insert the crankshaft seal in the ready for assembly on the engine.

cover.

The

cover

is now

8 ‘349’ and subsequent engines: a) The timing cover preparation involves fitting the crankshaft seal and cleaning mating surfaces. 9 Fit the timing cover gasket to cylinder block - smeared with grease. 10 The timing covers can now be assembled on the engine and the bolts securing it tightened to a torque of 8 Ib f ft (1.25 mdaN).

x. 46.5 Final alignment of timing marks

ana

34

Chapter 1/Engine bolt into position. Tighten the bolt to a torque of 60 Ib f. ft (8 mdaN) and close the tabs over the special head of the bolt.

2

Fit the filter baffle into the filter cover and check the ‘O’ ring

on the periphery of the filter cover. (photo) 3 Offer up the cover and baffle onto the filter housing and retain with the six bolts which are tightened to 7.5 Ib f. ft (1

mdaN).

46.7 Crankshaft end washer fitting (‘315' engine)

47 Oil pump and pressure relief valve - replacement

*315’ Engine 1 The pump locates directly to the timing cover being driven by the camshaft end. 2 Clean the mating surfaces of the pump cover and timing cover and then smear with TECSIL compound which should be available from your SIMCA dealer. 3 Position the drive pinion of the pump on the timing cover, ensuring that it is engaged with the camshaft. 4 Set idling gear of pump in the cover and then offer the pump to the timing cover. 5 Secure it with the bolts which must be tightened progressively to specified torque. 6 Next insert the pressure relief valve, ball or cylindrical piece first then the spring and finally the main bolt. Tighten plug bolt

to 24 Ib f ft (3.2 mdaN).

48.2 Filter baffle on the centrifugai filter cover

*349’ and subsequent Ergines 1 Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the cylinder block, after liberally coating it with oil. 2 Engage the shaft driving gear in the camshaft worm, note - it is necessary to fit the non-machined recessed end of the gear first. 3 Smear the gear with grease and locate the gear onto the drive shaft with the ‘TRUARC’ ring. The ring fits into a groove in tne shaft. 4 Fit the ‘O’ ring over the plug end and push the plug into the cavity at the drive gear end of the shaft. The plug is retained by a

single bolt which is tightened to 12 Ib f. ft (1.7 mdaN). 5

Check

the

end

play

of

the

drive

shaft

which

should

49 Crankshaft pulley replacement - ‘349’ engine 1 Wipe the hub of the pulley position on the crankshaft.

clean

and carefully

slide into

2 Secure the pulley with the centre bolt which is tightened to 120 Ib f. ft (15 mdaN).

be

between 0.002, 0.02 in (0.05 and 0.50 mm). 6 Stick the oil pump gasket to the cylinder block with grease, and offer up the pump body to the block. 7 Insert the drive pinion of the pump into the pump body, rotating it to ensure engagement with the drive shaft. 8 Insert driven geat into the body, and then stick the pump/cover gasket onto the pump body with grease. 9 It is now possible to position the cover onto the pump and to

secure it with torque.

the six bolts which

tighten

to their

specified

10 Finally reinstall the relief valve, comprising valve seat, ball, spring, valve body, and locking nut. The pressure at which the valve operates will need to be checked as described in Section 26 of this Chapter. 11 The cartridge oil filter may be screwed onto the pump cover extension, after the gaskets have been smeared with oil.

48 Centrifugal filter replacement - ‘315’ engine 1 Wipe the hub of the combined pulley and centrifugal oil filter and carefully place into position on the crankshaft nose. Slip the tab washer

into the centre

of the filter, and screw the crank end

50 Oil strainer, oil pump feed pipes, sump replacement shaft end oil seal replacement

- crank-

1 Although the design of the oil strainer, and feed pipe installation is different on the ‘315’ and ‘349’ series of engines, the assembly procedure is common. 2 Secure the oil feed pipe and strainer assembly to the base of the timing cover (’315’ engine), or cylinder block (’349’ series) with two bolts tightened to the specified torque. 3 Locate the strainer onto the central main bearing cap bracket. 4 Press the crankshaft end oil seal into the alloy housing, ensuring that the arrow on the seal conforms with the direction of rotation of the crankshaft. 5 The seal and housing are located on the cylinder block with five bolts which are tightened to torque as in the specification. 6 The engine is now ready to accept the sump. After the mating surfaces have been cleaned, the sump gasket is liberally coated with grease and positioned on the cylinder block. 7 The sump is secured to the cylinder block by fourteen bolts, each of which should be tightened to the specified torque.

Chapter 1/Engine

35

EE

53 Rocker shaft - reassembly

51 Flywheel - refitting ——

1

Turn

the

crankshaft

until

it is in the TDC

position

for

number 1 and 4 cylinders. Place the flywheel in position on the end of the crankshaft with the previously made mark. 2 Fit the securing bolt thrust plate to the flywheel and then the six securing bolts. 3 Place a block of wood between the crankshaft and the crankcase, to stop the crankshaft rotating. Tighten the six bolts in a progressive and diagonal manner to the specified torque wrench

1 The rocker shafts are first inserted through the intermediate supports, which have been drilled to accept ‘Mecanindus’ pins to locate the rocker shaft in place in the support. 2 The shafts are plugged at one end only, and the open ends abut together in the centre support. 3 Slide the rocker separating springs and supports in the order noted when dismantled.

setting. (photo) 54 Cylinder head - replacement

After checking that both the cylinder block and cylinder head mating surfaces are perfectly clean, generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil. 1 Always use a new cylinder head gasket as the old gasket will be compressed and not capable of giving a good seal. 2 Never smear grease on either side of the gasket as, when the engine heats up, the grease will melt and may allow compression leaks to develop.

3

The

cylinder

head

gasket is placed on top of the cylinder

block so that the mark ‘DESSUS’ (top) on the gasket is seen. 4

Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket, taking care not to

move the position of the gasket. 5 Fit the rocker shaft to the

top of the cylinder head, the supports are located on dowels on some engines. The cylinder head retaining bolts are inserted through the rocker shaft

51.3 Tightening the six bolts retaining the flywheel to the crankshaft

supports

long bolts)

and

the cylinder head (short bolts) and

screwed in finger tight.

6

Tighten

the

cylinder

head

securing

bolts

in a progressive

manner in the order shown tn Fig.1.14 to a final torque of 46 Ib f. ft (6.5 mdaN) — ‘349’ series engines; 44 Ib f. ft 6.2 mdaN) —

‘315’ engines. (photo) 52 Valve and valve spring - reassembly To refit the valves and valve springs to the cylinder head, proceed as follows: 1 Rest the cylinder head on its side and fit each valve, spring lower seating and spring in turn, wiping down and lubricating each valve stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from

which it was removed. (photo) 2 Fit the valve spring cup to each valve spring. 3 With the base of the valve spring compressor on the valve head, compress the valve spring until the two cotters can be slipped into place in the cotter grooves.

4 Gently release the compressor. Repeat this procedure until all eight valves and valve springs are fitted.

52.1 Insertion of valve into valve guide Fig.1/14. Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts

36

;

Chapter 1/Engine

55 Pushrod and rocker arm/valve - adjustment 1 With the cylinder head in position, fit the pushrods in the same order in which they were removed. Ensure that they locate properly in the stems of the tappets and lubricate the pushrod ends before fitment. 2 The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The importance of correct rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they vitally affect the performances of

the engine. 3 If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is reduced as the valves open later and close earlier than was intended. If, on the other hand the clearances are set too close there is a danger that the stem and pushrods will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to close properly which will cause burning of the valve head and possible warping. 4 If the engine is in the car, to gain access to the rockers undo and remove the four nuts, spring washers and metal packing Pieces. 5 Carefully lift away the rocker cover. 6 It is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam (i.e. opposite the peak). This can be done by carrying out the adjustments in the following order, which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than necessary:

Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

fully open No. 8 No. 6 No. 4 No. 7 No. 1 No. 3 No. 5 No. 2

Check and Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

adjust No. 1 No. 3 No. 5 No. 2 No. 8 No. 6 No. 4 No. 7

7 The correct valve clearance is given in technical data at the beginning of this Chapter. It is obtained by slackening the hexagonal locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against rotation with an adjustable spanner as shown in this photograph. Then still pressing down with the adjustable spanner, insert a feeler gauge of the required thickness between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without nipping. Then, still holding the ball pin in the correct position, tighten

the locknut. (photo)

FIG.1/15 ALIGNMENT A

Incorrect

OF ROCKERS TO VALVES B

Correct

[

{TA

%

*

55.7 Rocker gap adjustment

Fig.1/16 Driving pin into rocker shaft pedestal to locate shaft

Chapter 1/Engine

cylinder block. The early ‘315’ engines were also fitted with a parallel arm stabilising mechanism. The bolts which retain the

56 Engine - final assembly

engine

1 Make sure the mating faces of the cylinder head and thermostat lower housing are clean of old gasket and jointing compound. 2 Fit the thermostat housing and new gasket and tighten bolts to 9 Ib f. ft (1.25 mdaN). 3

On

models where the thermostat

is held under an alloy cover,

fit thermostat with new joint gasket. Tighten cover bolts to 9 Ib

f. ft (1.25 mdaN). 4 Having checked or renovated the water pump as described in Chapter 2, clean the mating surfaces of the pump arm and cylinder block and secure the pump to the engine with the two

bolts and nut. Tighten nut and bolts to 14 Ib f. ft (2 mdaN). 5 Next, on ‘349’ series of engines, fit crankcase breather fittings

and

tightened

dipstick

37

fittings.

All

bolts

to 9 Ib f. ft (1.25 mdaN).

on

the

fittings

As always, clean

are

mating

surfaces and use new gaskets. 6 The inlet manifold may now be fitted to the cylinder head, after cleaning mating surfaces and sticking a new gasket on with grease. The nuts which secure the inlet manifold to the engine

are tightened to 11 Ib f. ft (1.5 mdaN).

end bracket to the engine are tightened to 14 Ib f. ft (2

mdaN). 24 Next the silencer and exhaust pipe system may be fitted; it is a good idea to use new nuts and bolts on the exhaust system - it will save a few tears if you every do battle with the system again. 25 The tighten fan belt 26 The tributor

dynamo/alternator can now be fitted to the engine. Only the attachment bolts moderately at this stage, before the is fitted later. only major component left is the distributor. The disis fitted in a precise way; turn the engine so that the

number one piston is at top dead centre (TDC) firing stroke and then turn back 8, 10 or 12 degrees - see Chapter 4. The distributor shaft and casing are then held

so that the rotor arm is contacting the No. 1 cylinder tag in the distributor

cap, and the contact breaker is about to open. With the engine and distributor thus positioned - slide the distributor down the bore and the timing cover into engagement with the camshaft. Secure the distributor with the pinch bolt or U-clamp as appropriate. 27 Now fii tne rocker cover - use a new gasket. 28 The engine is ready for assembly into the car.

7 The exhaust manifold is now attached to the engine. The new gasket is fitted dry. The nuts which retain the manifold are

tightened to 74 Ib f. ft (2 mdaN). 8 The carburettor can now be attached to the inlet manifold. The two nuts which secure the carburettor to the manifold are tightened to 14 Ib f. ft (2 mdaN). Again a new gasket is used and surfaces cleaned. 9 Fit the manifold heating and carburettor heating hoses. 10 Next fit the fuel pump, make sure that the cam follower rests on top of the cam. Clean mating surfaces and use a new gasket. The bolts which retain the pump to the engine are tightened to

14 Ib f. ft(2mdaN).

-

11 Attach the fuel pipe between the carburettor and pump.

12 Screw in the oil pressure sender 13 Screw in the temperature sender 14 On ‘349’ series of engines, attach timing cover. Use a new gasket and

unit into the cylinder block. unit into the cylinder head. the water inlet fitting to the tighten the bolts to (14 Ib f.

ft) (2 mdaN). 15 The engine should now be looking assembly continues with the installation flywheel.

16 Hold the clutch

plate centrally

fairly complete, of the clutch on

the the

on the flywheel face with a

57 Engine

- replacement in car

Generally speaking the replacement of the engine Is a reversal of the removal procedure but the following additional points should be borne in mind: 1 Always ease the engine/transmission unit into position watching it all round, as it is easy to wrench out a wire or pipe due to being in too much of a hurry and not noticing these things when they flip back in the way, as they always seem to! 2 If the engine/transmission unit will not go where it should, look and find out why. Do not try to force anything. 3 If the transmission was removed with the engine, reconnect the drive shafts. (Details will be found in Chapter 7). 4 Replace all electrical connections and the generator or alternator, the fuel lines and carburettor linkages, cooling system hoses and air conveyor coupling.

5 Refill the engine with 6 pints of Castrol GTX and, if the transmission has been stripped, 3% pints of Castrol Hypoy B in the transmission unit. 6 Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 2.

wooden dowel, fit the clutch meanchism on top, making sure that it is aligned to the. flywheel as it was before dismantling.

The mark made on the clutch cover and flywheel during dismantling have that purpose. 17 Screw in the 6 bolts which retain the cover to the flywheel evenly, to compress the spring system gradually. The final torque

on the bolts should be 9 Ib f. ft (1.25 mdaN). 18 It should now be possible to offer up the transmission unit that is clutch bellhousing, differential and gearbox - to the engine. It is secured to the engine by four large bolts which

tighten to 16 Ib f. ft (2.2 mdaN). 1 Next the starter motor may be installed and the two nuts and bolts which secure it to the clutch bellhousing are tightened to 14 Ib f. ft (2. mdaN). 20 The flywheel cover plate and silencer support bracket may now be attached to the clutch bell housing/engine joint. 21 The engine is ready to accept the rear mounting brackets, which attach to the cylinder block just forward of the timing cover. 22 As always clean mating surfaces, offer up the support brackets to the engine and screw in the bolts, two to each

bracket, these bolts may be tightened to 16 Ib f. ft (2.2 mdaN). 23 The rear support beam for the engine should now be brought up and offered into place. Early engines have coil spring supports, jJater engines were equipped with rubber block supports. In each case the support beam with the soft mounts attached already, is offered up to the engine to enable the

mountings

to

be

attached

to

the

support

brackets

on

the

58 Engine - initial start up after overhaul or major repair

1 Make sure that the battery is fully charged and that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are replenished. 2 If the fuel system has been dismantled it will require several revolutions

engine

on

the

petrol

up the carburettor.

of the

An

initial

cupful

of petrol

poured down

starter

motor

to

‘prime’ of about

pump

the

1/3 of a

the air intake of the carburettor

will help the engine to fire quickly, thus relieving the load on the battery. Do not overdo this, however, as flooding may result. 3 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast

tickover

only (no faster)

and bring

it up to normal

working

temperature.

4 As the engine warms up there will be odd smells and some smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to look for are leaks of water or oil which will be obvious, if serious. Check also the exhaust pipe and manifold connections as these do not always ‘find’ their exact gas tight position until the warmth and vibration have acted on them and it is almost certain that they will need tightening further. This should be done, of course, with the engine stopped. 5 When normal running temperature has been reached, adjust the engine idle speed as described in Chapter 3.

6 Stop the lubricant or stationary.

engine and wait a few minutes coolant is dripping out when

to see if any the engine is

38

Chapter 1/Engine

U/ Road test the car to check that the timing is correct and that the engine is giving the necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine - if new bearings and/or pistons have been fitted it should be treated as a new engine and run in at a reduced speed for the first 300 miles (500 km).

cylinder block

for timing cover

bolts increased

to 8 x 125

mm. When replacing a block tapped to 7 mm diameter x 100 by a new block, the old timing cover can be re-used by counterboring

bolt holes to 8.5 mm diameter. When replacing a timing cover to a block with 7 mm diameter tapped

holes, a new

cover to 8.5 diameter can easily be fitted.

New gaskets will fit either 7 or 8 diameter bolt arrays. 5

59 Modifications to engine 1

a) b) c)

b) c)

Crankshaft: On ‘315’ engine No. 5003226 onwards rocker shaft lubrication improved by drilling right through centre main journal. As from engine No. 5219116 25 mm flywheel bolts replaced by 30 mm long bolts. As from No. 5207900 shell retaining front crankshaft oil seal has a 5 mm recess instead of 5 mm diameter hole. ‘315’ crankshaft discontinued when ‘349’ series engines introduced. New engine cranks have different drillings etc. Connecting rod and pistons: ‘315’ engine connecting rods were clearance fit with gudgeon pin. *349' series engine connecting rods have interference fit small ends. All gudgeon pins on the same engine must have the same dimensions. On series E cars - 1969 models the inside bore of the gudgeon pin was reduced from 15 to 14 mm. Pistons:Up to engine No. 5000700 flat crown pistons fitted. From No. 5000701 to No. 5014822 flat crown pistons machined. From No. 5014823 to No. 5059253 flat crown pistons machined. New blanks ovality 0.21 - 0.23 mm. From No. 5059254 flat crown pistons used. Ovality 0.25 - 0.27 mm. On ‘351’ engines from No. 6163011 piston has new recesses, no interchange problem, providing piston gradings correspond.

Camshaft and valve gear On ‘315’ engine No. 5200021

diameter of

From No. 5279877 onwards rocker shaft positioned by two locating dowels, entering partly the cylinder head and partly the pedestals. On series F cars 1970 onwards inlet valve diameter increased to 32.5 mm. From engine No. 5042730 valve guide length reduced from 44.5 mm to 42.5 mm.

6205791

No. 5695531

(’351')

fitted to inlet valve Cylinder block: On ‘315’ engines recovered from oil b) From engine No.

and

(’349’); No. 5905308

No.

4127469

(‘359’),

(‘349S’):

No.

sealing caps,

stems only. from engine No. 5025656 oil vapours filter plug, instead of water pump arm.

5668392,

Marchal

35H spark plugs

must be fitted.

From

No.

5039492

Marchal

35HS

or AC 44XL

plugs are

fitted. Old engines could have new plugs if washer greater than 1 mm thick is used. b) From engine No. 5425976 longer studs are employed to locate the inlet manifold. The new studs are fitted with Nylstop flat nuts. Lubrication

system:

a) Up to engine No. 5408396 the pressure relief valve acts to recirculate the oil in the pump and from that engine the valve acts to discharge the oil into the sump. The two types of valve - the earlier one with a cylindrical valve piece, the later a ball valve, require particular timing covers. Only the later cover is available as a spare, therefore if an old cover is to be replaced, then the later pattern of oil pump and relief valve must be obtained. The later pump and cover also necessitate the later strainer assembly and the baffle plate in the sump needs to be reshaped to accept it. It follows that if the old pump is to be replaced then a new timing cover, oil strainer assembly and relief valve will be required. b) As from engine No. 5661218 and No. 5803351 the oil capacity of the sump increased from 2.5 to 3 litres. c) As from engines No. 5667485 and No. 5823138 the size of the pump cover and release valve body has been reduced. Replacement of the former oil pump cover No. 299350 by the new one No. 30946Y will require a new release valve body and cover. The new release valve body cannot be fitted to an early cover.

d) As from engines No. 5671384 and No. 5828827 a retaining onwards nominal

valves (inlet) increased to 31 mm.

As from

Cylinder head:

a) ‘315’ engines up to No. 5039491

and

No.

5825040

tappings

in

spring is fitted in the oil pump cover to prevent the relief valve ball falling into the filter element when dismantling the relief valve. This spring can be fitted to earlier engines. e) As from engine No. 5686202 and No. 5844414 a sieve is attached to the oil strainer/collector to prevent the oil pump from draining when the engine is still. The seive cannot be fitted to old pattern oil strainer units, therefore new pattern units should be fitted if desired. Engine - general changes a) Fuel system: As from No. 5341-325, the carburettor air intake includes a facility to take warm air from the region around the exhaust manifold. b) Engine support:

As from the series E cars (1969) - the engine Nos. 4100001, 5850-001,

6150001

the mountings

are rubber ‘silent block’.

Chapter 1/Engine 60 Fault finding chart Symptom

Remedy

Reason/s

ENGINE FAILS TO TURN No current at starter motor

OVER

WHEN

STARTER CONTROL OPERATED Flat or defective battery Loose battery leads

Defective starter solenoid or switch or

broken wiring Engine earth strap disconnected Current at starter motor

Jammed

starter motor drive pinion

Defective starter motor

ENGINE TURNS OVER No spark at spark plug

BUT WILL NOT START Ignition damp or wet

Charge or replace battery, Push start car. Tighten both terminals and earth ends of earth leads. Run a wire direct from the battery to the starter motor or by-pass the solenoid. Check and retighten strap. Place car in gear and rock to and fro. Alternatively, free exposed square end of shaft with spanner. Remove and recondition.

Wipe dry the leads.

distributor

cap

and ignition

Ignition leads to spark plugs loose

Check and tighten at both spark plug and dis-

Shorted or disconnected low tension leads

tributor cap ends. Check the wiring on the CB and SW terminals of the coil and to the distributor.

Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points Faulty condenser

Defective ignition switch Ignition leads connected wrong way round

Clean, file smooth, and adjust. Check contact breaker points remove and fit new. By-pass switch with wire.

Remove

for arcing,

and replace leads to spark plugs in

correct order.

Faulty coil Contact breaker point spring earthed or broken

Remove and fit new coil.

Check

spring is not touching metal part of

distributor.

Check

insulator washers are cor-

rectly placed. Renew points if the spring is No fuel at carburettor float chamber or at jets

No petrol in petrol tank Vapour lock in fuel line (in hot conditions

or at high altitude) Blocked float chamber needle valve Fuel pump filter blocked Choked or blocked carburettor jets Faulty fuel pump ENGINE STALLS AND WILL NOT START Excess of petrol in cylinder or carburettor Too much choke allowing too rich a mixture flooding to wet plugs Float damaged or leaking or needle not seating Float lever incorrectly adjusted No spark at spark plug Ignition failure - sudden

No fuel at jets

Ignition failure - misfiring precludes total stoppage Ignition failure - in severe rain or after traversing water splash No petrol in petrol tank Petrol tank breather choked

Sudden obstruction in carburettor (s) Water in fuel system ENGINE MISFIRES OR IDLES UNEVENLY Intermitten spark at spark plug Ignition leads loose

Intermittent sparking at spark plug

Battery leads Battery earth point Engine earth Low tension coil loose Low tension

loose on terminals strap loose on body attachment lead loose leads to SW and CB terminals on

broken. Refill tank! Blow into petrol tank, allow engine to cool, or apply a cold wet rag to the fuel line. Remove, clean and replace. Remove, clean and replace. Dismantle and clean. Remove, overhaul and replace.

Remove and dry spark plugs or with wide open throttle, push start the car. Remove, examine, clean and replace float and needle valve as necessary. Remove and adjust correctly.

Check over low and high tension circuits for breaks in wiring. Check contact breaker points, clean adjust. Renew condenser if faulty.

Dry out ignition leads and distributor cap. Refill tank! Remove petrol cap and clean out breather hole or pipe. Check jets, filter, and needle valve in float chamber for blockage.

Drain tank and blow out fuel lines.

Check and tighten as necessary at spark plug and distributor cap ends. Check and tighten terminal leads.

Check and tighten earth lead to body attachment point. Tighten lead. Check and tighten leads if found loose.

lead from CB terminal side to

and

40

Chapter 1/Engine

— eee

Symptom

Fuel shortage at engine

Reason/s

Remedy

distributor loose Dirty, or incorrectly gapped plugs Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points

Check and tighten if found loose. Remove, clean and regap. Clean, file smooth, and adjust.

Tracking across inside of distributor cover

Remove and fit new cover.

Ignition too retarded Faulty coil Mixture too weak

Check and adjust ignition timing.

Air leak in carburettor Air leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to carburettor

Remove and fit new coil. Check jets, float chamber needle valve, and filters for obstruction. Clean as necessary. Carburettors incorrectly adjusted. Remove and overhaul carburettor.

Test by pouring oil along joints. Bubbles indicate leak. Renew manifold gasket as appropriate.

LACK OF POWER

AND POOR

COMPRESSION

Mechanical wear

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out exhaust valves

Sticking or leaking valves

Weak or broken valve springs

Fuel/air mixture leaking from cylinder

Worn valve guides or stems Worn pistons and piston rings Burnt out exhaust valves

Sticking or leaking valves Worn valve guides and stems

Adjust rocker arms to take up wear. Remove

cylinder

head

and renew

valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, renew valves as necessary.

defective check

and

Check and renew as necessary. Renew valve guides and valves. Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings. Remove cylinder head, renew defective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check, and renew valves as necessary. Remove cylinder head and renew valves and

Weak or broken valve springs

valve guides. Remove cylinder springs.

Blown cylinder head gasket (accompanied by increase in noise) Worn pistons and piston rings Worn or scored cylinder bores

Remove cylinder head and fit new gasket. Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings. Dismantle

head,

renew

defective

engine, rebore, renew pistons and

rings. Incorrect adjustments

Carburation and ignition faults

Ignition timing wrongly set. Too advanced or retarded Contact breaker points incorrectly gapped Incorrect valve clearances Incorrectly set spark plugs Carburation too rich or too weak Dirty contact breaker points Fuel filters blocked causing poor top end performance through fuel starvation

Check and reset ignition timing. Check and reset contact breaker points. Check and reset rocker arm to valve stem gap. Remove, clean and regap. Tune carburettor for optimum performance. Remove, clean and replace. Dismantle, inspect, clean, and replace all fuel filters.

Distributor automatic balance weights or vacuum advance and retard mechanisms

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION Oil being burnt by engine

not functioning correctly

Overhaul distributor.

Faulty fuel pump giving top end fuel starvation

Remove, overhaul, tioned fuel pump.

Excessively worn valve stems and valve

Remove cylinder head and fit new valves and viave guides. Fit oil control rings to existing pistons or purchase new pistons.

guides Worn piston rings

Oil being lost due to leaks

Worn pistons and cylinder bores Excessive piston ring gap allowing blow-up Piston oil return holes choked Leaking oil filter gasket Leaking rocker cover gasket Leaking timing gear cover gasket Leaking sump gasket Loose sump plug

or fit exchange

recondi-

Fit new pistons and rings, rebore cylinders.

Fit new piston rings and set gap correctly. Decarbonise engine and pistons. Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary. Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary . Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary. Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary. Tighten, fit new gasket if necessary.

41

Chapter 1/Engine

Symptom UNUSUAL NOISES FROM ENGINE Excessive clearances due to mechanical wear

Reason/s

Remedy

Worn valve gear (noisy tapping from rocker box Worn big end bearing (regular heavy knocking)

Inspect and renew rocker shaft, rocker arms, and ball pins as necessary. Drop sump, if bearings broken up clean out oil pump and oilways, fit new bearings. If

Worn timing chain and gears (rattling from

front of engine) Worn main bearings (rumbling and vibration)

Worn crankshaft (knocking, rumbling and vibration

bearings not broken but worn fit bearing shells. Remove timing cover, fit new timing wheels and timing chain. Drop sump, remove crankshaft, if bearing worn but not broken up, renew. If broken up strip oil pump and clean out oilways. Regrind crankshaft, fit new main and big end bearings.

ry

—

420

PD

a

’

.

oe .

: i




Le

@

Co

Float and needle valve ——S

Venturi,

_—=e

ee el |

Accelerator pump

ee

ee

Emulsion tube Correction jet

©

as

Accelerator pump

Mixture control screw

Fig.3/5 The Solex BICSA carburettor. An exploded view

? as,

@

56 *

Cover

Correction jet ae

Venturi

ae

==

KX

Or VR

NAN

=«—

Accelerator pump injector

Accelerator pump assembly

Throttle assembly

Mixture contro! screw

Fig.3/6 The Solex PBIC carburettor. An exploded view

57 Automatic choke

Carburettor cover

Float and needle valve Throttle dashpot

capsule

Body of carburettor

4

pump

.)

|

Econostat valve

Accelerator

@

°

Main venturi

Throttle flap and spindle

®

Throttle housing

®

4

>

ai =J

weet

ae

Mixture control screw

=

Fig.3/7 The solex DITA carburettor. An exploded view

Choke flap assembly

Choke actuating lever

Correction jet

Sot

nies

is. |

Emulsion tube ea

7

:

a

1

&

@

\

Needle valve Float

oS) e

Accelerator pump

:

injector

eee

~f

Nf

re

P

Carburettor body

] Throttle flap ilassembly Choke/throttle co-ordinating rod

—

Accelerator

Throttle actuating lever assembly Mixture contro! screw Carburettor heater (ICB carburettor only)

Fig.3/8 The Weber ICR and ICB carburettors. An exploded view

& 4

Chapter 3/Fuel system

Carburettor - removal and replacement

5

Carburettor - setting and adjustment

1 Before making any adjustments to the carburettor settings, make sure that your reasons for the adjustment are sound and

1 The carburettor may be removed easily with the engine in the car, for inspection and cleaning. Under some circumstances it may be wise to remove it from the manifold before removing the

that you only do one at a time. Check the result of each adjust-

engine from the car.

ment after it is made. The carburettor is a finely balanced and a

2 Remove the air cleaner box by: unscrewing screw and slackening the clamp band.

3

the clamping

On carburettors incorporating heating provisions, remove the

Pipes which connect to the carburettor body and/or automatic choke, after partially draining the cooling system as outlined in

Chapter 2. 4 Unhook the throttle return spring from the lever on the carburettor; slacken the screw clamping the throttle cable to the boss in the other end of the lever. Withdraw the cable and cover from the carburettor mechanism. (photo) 5 If a manual choke is fitted, slacken the bolt clamping the choke cable to the operating lever. Remove the cable and cover from the choke mechanism. (photo) 6 Ease the petrol pipe off the float chamber union, and plug the pipe end with a pencil or something similar to stop fuel dripping out. 7 With an open ended spanner undo the two fixing nuts from

their studs and remove together with their washers. 8 Lift off the carburettor and retrieve the gaskets. Plug the manifold inlet with some clean rag. 9 Replacement of the carburettor is an exact reversal of removal, but you must be sure that the correct number of gaskets have been replaced, and that all the operating cables are fitted in their correct position. Do not fully tighten the cable fixings until total adjustment has taken place; it is unwise to run

with the choke out all the time because you have overtightened the cable!

relatively delicate instrument that can easily be put off tune. 2 Control settings are important. Make sure that the operation

of the choke cable moves the lever easily throughout its full range of movement, and returns to its closed position when the control knob is pushed home. Adjustment can be made by repositioning the inner cable relative to the operating arm at the clamping screw. The outer cable - the cable cover - can be repositioned as necessary where it clips to the bracket on the carburettor. 3 The throttle cable should also be checked for movement throughout its range. Take particular care that when the throttle flap is in the fully open position, the position of the accelerator pedal is as far down as it could possibly be; otherwise the force on the pedal will impart severe strain on the cable, and more important, on the throttle spindle and bearings. Adjustment should be made at the point where the end of the cable passes through a boss, located in the forked end of the throttle lever on the carburettor. Slacken the screw clamping the cable in the boss, and move the cable so that when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, the throttle is just fully open. 4 Slow running adjustment is controlled by the throttle stop screw, which in turn regulates the position of the throttle valve when the accelerator cable is at rest. The main jet controls the fuel mixture throughout the full operational range. If satisfactory slow running cannot be achieved with the throttle stop screw, then it will be necessary to proceed to the following check which effects the carburettor performance at all speeds. 5 Make sure that the engine has reached its fully operational temperature which should take at least ten minutes from cold.

6

Check

the operation

of the automatic

choke

on the Solex

DITA carburettor. The choke valve should partly open if the throttle is quickly opened when the engine is cold, and be fully open when the engine attains its normal running temperature. If the Solex. BICSA carburettor is fitted, check that the poppet valve in the choke flap opens when the throttle is opened with the choke flap closed.

7

Now that the engine has reached its correct running temper-

ature,

4.4 Throttle lever, cable retaining boss and throttle cable

and

the

chokes,

manual

or automatic,

are

fully

open,

screw the ‘mixture control screw’ right in - with the engine not running - and then unscrew 2 to 2% turns for Solex carburettors - 1% turns for Weber. 8 Screw up the throttle stop screw, and then unscrew it so that it just touches the throttle lever. 9 Re-start the engine and turn this stop screw out until the engine is running at what you judge to be normal tick over speed - 650 to 700 rpm. The engine should not be too smooth running at this stage. 10 The mixture control screw should now be adjusted by screwing in or out - probably out - until the highest and smoothest tickover speed is obtained. This too should be approximately 700 rpm. Owners of automatic drive cars note that they should engage the low gear and have the brakes on whilst adjusting the idling performance of the engine. This ensures the engine will not stall when in traffic and will result in a slightly higher tickover speed with the gear shift in Neutral. 11 If the tickover setting is not obtainable, or is racing the engine, then you should recheck your carburettor controls for correctness of fitting and start again. If you still cannot obtain a reasonable tickover, and you are positive that the carburettor is not at fault, then proceed to check the ignition system. The static ignition timing of the engine affects idling speed, as well as the condition of the spark plugs, the compression in the cylinders, the inlet and exhaust valve tappet gaps, the condition of the inlet and exhaust valves themselves - all moving parts must

Chapter 3/Fuel system be checked

if the engine

persists in ticking over

roughly and

unevenly.

Fig.3/9 Typical positions of the mixture control screw (1) and the

idling stop screw (2)

6

Carburettor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly

1

Do

not

dismantle

the

carburettor

unless

it is absolutely

necessary. This should be only for cleaning at intervals of 9000 miles or when systematic inspection indicates that there is a fault with it. The internal mechanism is delicate and finely balanced and unnecessary tinkering will-probably do more harm than good. 2 Although certain parts may be removed with the carburettor still attached to the engine, nevertheless, it is considered safer to remove it and work over a bench. 3 With the carburettor off the car disassembly is as follows (this covers all carburettors fitted, with slight variations which, because of their simple and obvious nature, are not specifically mentioned each time): Remove the top of the carburettor by undoing its fixing screws with the correct size screwdriver. These screws are made of comparatively soft metal and will damage very easily. With the top should come the choke mechanism

(both types), fuel

floats make sure the metal tag is not bent or distorted. Replace if it is. There is no room for float level adjustment. Replace any parts which are obviously worn or damaged but also do so to any which you even suspect. (Make sure that parts are still available before throwing away - you may need a temporary repair). 12 Replace all parts in the reverse of their removal using new copper washers and gaskets all the way through. Do not overtighten anything, and do not use any gasket cement. If the top of the carburettor does not fit flat it needs replacing. SPECIAL NOTE: No mention has been made of throttle, choke and butterfly spindles. As these spindles run directly in the body or top of the carburettor they are likely, over a period of usage, to wear. It is impractical to replace parts of these and any wear or failure in these parts must mean complete carburettor replacement. 13 Points to watch for as the assembly is completed are: a) The choke and throttle flaps should turn freely - a drop of light oil on each spindle bearing is a good idea. b) On the Solex DITA carburettor with the automatic choke, check that the choke flap will open when light pressure is applied to the larger area of flap (the spindle axle is offset). The choke flap should return to the closed position immediately pressure is removed, under the action of the return spring. c) When reassembling the automatic choke mechanism, make sure that the bi-metal coil end is correctly engaged in the choke control lever, in the slot it was in when dismantled. The choke flap should be fully closed when the mechanism is cold. 14 The assembly should now be complete, and the carburettor may be remounted onto the inlet manifold. Always use new

joint gaskets and tighten the two nuts to 15 Ib f. ft (2 mdaN). Then join the heating pipes and connect the operating cables carrying out the appropriate checks as described in Sections 4 and 5 of this Chapter.

inlet pipe and filter (if fitted), and needle

valve. The gasket and float itself should remain in the body of the carburettor. The relevant exploded diagrams will show you specifically what is fitted to each type. 4 Remove the gasket and the float placing bracket or spindle and then the float itself. 5 Remove any jets and their washers which have screwdriver cuts in their heads and are removable from the top and inside of the carburettor.

6

59

7.3 Offering up the fuel pump to the engine

Unscrew all the external adjusting screws. Retain all washers

and springs and code for their relevant positions. 7 Turn the top of the carburettor upside down and remove the needle valve and its washer. 8 On Solex carburettors you will be able to remove the venturi itself from the body of the carburettor. 9 There is no point under any circumstances in removing any more parts from the carburettor. If any of these parts are in need of attention then a complete new carburettor is needed. It is safer and more efficient if you have reached this stage of need of repair to replace the complete unit. 10 All the parts which have been separated should be thoroughly cleaned in methylated spirits or clean petro! by hand and without the help of anything more than a soft non-fluffy rag. Do not use any scrapers, emery paper, wire wool or hard projections such as a pin on these parts. All have been machined to extremely fine tolerances. Blow all parts dry. 11 Inspect for blockages and scoring, the float for a puncture and the needle valve for easy operation. On plastic and metal

7

Fuel pump - removal and replacement

1 The fuel pump will need removing if it is to be dismantled for overhaul, but the filter may be cleaned in situ. Disconnect the fuel lines on the inlet and outlet sides by pulling off the connector pipes on both sides. Plug the pipe from the petrol tank with a pencil or similar. 2 Remove the two bolts securing the pump to the cylinder block, and take the pump off. Keep the bolts safe, they are of a particular length since longer ones would project through the block side and interfere with the camshaft. 3 Replacement is the reversal of the removal procedure. When offering up the pump to the engine, remember that the pump Operating lever must rest on top of the camshaft. The lever will be damaged if positioned incorrectly against the camshaft. Make

60

;

Chapter 3/Fuel system

sure that the total thickness of gaskets, and the length of the bolts if new ones are used, are the same as those which were removed. The last two precautions mentioned are essential because the camshaft is situated very close on the other side of the crankcase wall to the fuel pump. If longer bolts or thinner gaskets are used to retain the fuel pump to the engine, there isa distinct possibility of the tip of the bolts interfering with the rotation of the camshaft. Finally check that the fuel line connections are not leaking after starting the engine. (photo)

8

with a new diaphragm, valves and sealing rings. Check the manufacture of the pump first. 9 When fitting new valve assemblies to the body, first fit the sealing washers (or gasket depending on type) and then place the valves. Make sure that they are the correct way up according to inlet and outlet. Insert the retaining screws and tighten or restake at six different places around the edge as necessary, so that the assemblies are held firmly in place. If the valves are not

mounted

Fuel pump - inspection, dismantling and reassembly

1 First clean the pump exterior thoroughly and mark the edges of the two halves of the body.

2 Undo the cover retaining clip and lift off the cover. The gasket and gauze filter may then be removed. 3 Remove the eight screws and washers holding the two halves of the pump together and the top half may then be lifted off. 4 The diaphragm and pushrod should be removed next, but you will have to remove the pump lever and its spindle to release

it. This may require either removing the circlips which retain the spindle in the pump housing before drifting out the spindle, or the spindle may be an interference fit in the housing. In the latter case the housing should be placed against a wooden block,

which has a hole in it able to accept the spindle when it has been tapped out. Once the spindle is out, retrieve the lever spring, and carefully lift out the diaphragm and its actuating rod. 5 If there are signs of wear in the pump lever pivot pin, and pump

soundly and leakage occurs around the assemblies, the

pump will not function efficiently. 10 To replace the diaphragm and lever arm it will be necessary to place the diaphragm spring in the body of the pump. Then the diaphragm and its rod. Press the diaphragm spring down and fit the spring, push in the lever (the right way up) and connect over the top of the machined stop on the rod. Push in the lever arm pivot pin and push through the lever. Replace the circlip on the pivot pin. Always use a new circlip. 11 Fit the upper half of the pump body and line up the mating marks. In order to assemble the two halves and the diaphragm properly push the rocker arm upwards so that the diaphragm is drawn level. Then place the eight screws in position lightly. It is best if the base of the pump is held in a vice whilst the lever arm is pushed right up to bring the diaphragm to the bottom of its stroke. A short piece of tube over the lever arm will provide easy leverage. In this position the eight screws should be tightened evenly and alternately. 12 Fit a new filter bowl gasket carefully in the groove of the upper body, making sure that it does not twist or buckle in the process. Replace the cover and screw it tight. 13 When the pump is reassembled the suction and delivery Pressure can be felt at the inlet and outlet ports when the lever arm is operated. Be careful not to block the inlet port completely when testing suction. If the rocker arm were to be Operated strongly and the inlet side was blocked the diaphragm could be damaged. Note: The dismantling sequence is not affected by the

lever and link bushes then they should be renewed.

6 The valve assemblies should only be removed from the upper body if renewal is necessary. On ‘SEV’ pumps they are retained by a couple of screws, on ‘AC’ and ‘Sofabex’ pumps they are staked to the body and damaged when levered out. 7 Examine the diaphragm for signs of cracking or perforation and renew if necessary. 8 Overhaul kits are available for all pumps and are supplied

presence of a priming lever (if fitted). When replacing the pump in the engine block check its freedom of movement.

Top cap

Filter

9) re} B eB

Non-return valves Diaphragm

ee

Spring

Pump body

Pump lever

Fig.3.10 S.E.V. Fuel pump.

An exploded view

61

Top cap

Filter

Upper body Non return valves

VIZ

=~

Diaphragm

Diaphragm Spring and seal

Pump lever

Fig.3/11 The ‘SOFABEX’ and ‘AC’ fuel pumps

62

9

’

Chapter 3/Fuel system

Fuel gauge - tank sender unit

1 The fuel gauge sender unit is mounted on the top of the fuel tank, clearly visible through the left hand side aperture for the cool air duct which encloses the tank. If the fuel gauge appears faulty, first check the wiring connections at the back of the instrument panel. See Chapter 10. Then go to the sender unit which is a variable resistance operated by a float in the tank. If the fault lies here and you are sure that the sender unit was properly connected, you will have to replace the whole unit. It is not possible to replace parts of it.

2 To remove the sender unit first disconnect the battery, and remove the two gauge leads and mark their positions. 3 Remove the 3 bolts and 7 mm insert. 4 Lift away the gauge, being careful not to damage the float and arm. 5 When replacing, always use a new gasket and do not overtighten the bolts. Make sure that the two electrical connections are clean and tight. 6 These are reliable instruments and are usually non-functioning because of some mechanical defect rather than electrical, e.g. the float arm is bent, or the float has been perforated.

11 Modifications - summary

To Fuel Tank:-

1

Up to body sheel No. J-02-0246 capacity 30 litres, from shell

J-02-0247 the capacity is 36 litres. 2 As from shell No. R-06-0790 the blanking plug. which gave access to the fuel tank drain plug, was replaced by a special plug. The new plug connects the tank draw hole to the cool air cowling, and thus allows the tank to be drained without removing the blanking plug.

3

As from body shell No. P-22-0238 the feed pipe between the

fuel pump and the tank is made of ‘perbunan’, and as from January 1963 the pipe was tape wound and equipped with a tightening collar at each end. If old pipes are to be replaced use the new ‘perbunan’ one fitted with collars - they can be fitted without modification. 4 As from shell No. X-14-0069 the tank is fitted with a one piece filler tube, to which the filler cap is connected. To Air Filter:-

5

As from engine No. 5-341-325 a hot air collecting box has

been fitted over the rocker box, so that warm air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn through the carburettor into the

engine. Throttle Pedal:6 As from body shell No. F-19-0062 the pedal assembly incorporates a stop, and the diameter of the shaft on which the cable end pivots has been increased to 8 mm. The replacement of the old pedal assembly with a new one will entail a new cable and shaft washers. 7 A further change from body shell No. G28-0159 to allow easier movement of the cable is the addition of a fork link at the pedal shaft connection, and the provision of a forked throttle lever on the carburettor which holds a cylindrical cable retainer/boss. The cable is secured in the boss by a small screw.

8

As from engine No.550—695 on the SIMCA 1000 Automatic

a

new throttle valve return spring and attachment have been fitted. The new attachment is fitted in the same way to the cylinder

block as the former, and it gives a lower throttle spring hook position. The throttle spring has an increased tension and therefore a quicker return of the throttle to the idling position.

Fig.3/12 Location of the petro! gauge sender unit onto the petrol tank in the cool air duct

Inlet Manifold:9 On series D cars i.e. 1968 onwards, the inlet ports on the cylinder head and the inlet pipe inside diameter have increased from 24 to 26 mm. /

10 Exhaust system 1 The exhaust system on the SIMCA 1000 is simple and compact. It comprises of a cast iron manifold either one or two Piece, and one or two pipes running from the manifold to the silencer which is hung on flexible mounts on the left hand side of the engine. When repairing the system, it is wise only to use the original type of exhaust clamps and proprietary made

systems. (photo) 2 When any one section of the exhaust system needs renewal it often follows that the whole lot is best replaced. 3 It is most important when fitting exhausts that the twists and contours are carefully followed and that each connecting joint overlaps the correct distance. Any stresses or strain imparted, in order to force the system

to fit the hangar rubbers, will result in

early fractures and failures. 4 When fitting a new part or a complete system it is well worth removing ALL the system from the car and cleaning up all the joints so that they fit together easily. The time spent struggling with obstinate joints whilst flat on your back under the car is eliminated and the likelihood of distorting or even breaking a section is greatly reduced. Do not waste a lot of time trying to undo rusted and corroded clamps and bolts. Cut them off. New ones will be required anyway if they are that bad.

a

10.1 Tightening the clamp holding the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

63

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Chapter 3/Fuel system

12 Fault finding chart - fuel system and carburation Unsatisfactory engine performance and excessive fuel consumption are not necessarily the fault of the fuel system or carburettor. In fact they more commonly occur as a result of ignition and timing faults. Before acting on the following it is necessary to check the ignition system first. Even though a fault may lie in the fuel system it will be difficult to trace unless the ignition is correct. The faults below, therefore, assume that this has been attended to first-(where appropriate).

Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Smell of petrol when engine is stopped

Leaking fuel lines or unions Leaking fuel tank

Repair or renew as necessary. Fill fuel tank to capacity and examine carefully at seams, unions and filler pipe connections. Repair as necessary.

Smell of petrol when engine is idling

Excessive fuel consumption for reasons not covered by leaks or float chamber faults

Leaking fuel line unions between pump and

Check line and unions and tighten or repair.

carburettor Overflow of fuel from float chamber due to wrong level setting, ineffective needle valve

Check

or punctured float

sary.

level

needle

setting and

Renew

Over-rich jet setting

removable. Adjust jet. Check correct movement

One or more jets blocked or restricted Float chamber fuel level too low or needle

valve sticking Fuel pump not defivering sufficient fuel

jets

or

condition

valve, and renew

Worn jets

Sticking mechanism Difficult starting, uneven running, lack of power, cutting out

fuel

float and

carburettor

body

of

if neces-

if not

of mechanism.

Dismantle and clean out float chamber and jets. Dismantle and check fuel level and needle valve.

Check pump required.

delivery and clean or repair as

Chapter 4

Ignition system

Contents

General description Routine maintenance Distributor - contact points- arisen Distributor - contact points - removal and replacerient Distributor - condenser - testing, removal

1 2 3 4 5

and replacement

Distributor - removal and replacement

Distributor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly Ignition timing Spark plugs and HT leads! Coil

7 8 9 10

Ignition faults- emcicnel reasons and cemnedtis

11

6

Specifications

Spark plugs ‘315’ engine Manual transmission 1000 ‘315’ engine Automatic transmission 1000 ‘349’ engine SIMCA 1000 LS

SIMCA 1000 GL and SIMCA 1000 Automatic

we

ae

ses

Bi

AC44XL, Champion

...

We

ee

Rae

Marchal 35HS

AC42XL,

bs

Distributor

KLGFFE-—80B,

Marchal 35HS

KLG, FFE—80B, Marchal 34HS

Sd

ES

ed

=

o

bes

of

oe

ae

—

=

a

Solidified oil type.

SEV 2070B,

Eee

SEV or DUCELLIER Centrifugal and Vacuum advance

Static Ignition Timing...

SIMCA

1000

1000

Advance B.T.D.C.

cars "1962 (315 ane)! ee ihe

Automatic

1966—7.

1970

SIMCA

1000

with engines from No.4125021... ‘ On the SIMCA 1000 Rallye | and 1000S (371 engine)

ae

e

8° BTDC

and SIMCA 1000 GL, GLS and Automatic 1968 models... On the remaining SIMCA 1000 types: 1000 GL, GLS and Coupe 1963, 1964 and 1965 1000L, LS GL and GLS 1966—7 1000 LS SIMCA 1000 with ‘359’, ’349S', ‘351’ engines 1969

tai

10° BTDC

bes

12° BTDC

1970 SIMCA onwards

1000

with

‘349’ engines

No.5695021

1970 SIMCA

1000 with ‘349S’ engines No.5870021

onwards

1970 SIMCA

onwards

1000 with

hee

Ae

‘351’ engines No.6200021

:

se

a

DUCELLIER

0.47 to 0.53 mm

Condenser 0.2 to 0.3 Microfarads

all SIMCA

Marchal 35HS

Champion N7Y

Contact breaker gap

On

FFE—80B,

1000 GLS and SIMCA

SIMCA 1000 Rallye and 1000S Coil

N9Y, KLG

K18

Chapter 4/Ignition system Every 9000 miles examine the contact point surfaces. If there 1

is a build up of deposits on one face and a pit in the other it will be impossible to set the gap correctly and they should be refaced

General description

In order that the internal combustion engine with spark ignition can operate properiy, it is essential that the spark be delivered at the spark plug electrodes at the precise moment it is required. This moment varies - in relation to the position of the pistons and crankshaft - depending on the speed and loading of the engine. This control of the spark timing is automatic. When it is realised that at 50 mph approximately 100 sparks per second are being produced then the importance of the need for precise setting is realised. The majority of minor faults and cases of poor performance and economy can be traced to the ignition system. The principles are as follows: Battery voltage (12 volts) is fed through a circuit which passes through a coil developing high voltage. Without going into electrical principles it is sufficient to say that when the 12 volt

circuit

is ‘made’,

current

is fed into

a capacitor

(condenser).

When the circuit is broken the condenser discharges its current into the low voltage line and a high voltage current is boosted from the core of the coil and along the HT lead. This current is delivered to the centre contact of the distributor cap and from there, via the rotor arm, to each of the other four contacts in turn. Each of these is linked by a ‘high tension’ lead to each

or renewed. Set the gap when the contact surfaces are in order. It is also wise to examine the distributor cam shaft and contact breaker support plate. It is essential that there should not be any radial movement of the shaft and contact breaker location plate. Any sloppiness in the distributor mechanism will introduce a

random ignition timing, a characteristic which will reduce engine efficiency. c) General:

Examine

all

leads

and

terminals

for

signs

of broken

IGNITION SWITCH

spark plug.

Obviously the timing of the break in the circuit decides the moment at which the spark is made. The contact points (or breaker points!) are in effect a switch. Not only do they open and close four times for every two revolutions of the crankshaft delivering a spark to the four plugs in turn - they also open earlier or later in relation to the position of the crank-

shaft/pistons. Ignition advance and retard are the terms used to express this condition and it is measured in degrees - being degrees of angle of any crank on the shaft. Zero degrees is top dead centre, (TDC) being the highest point of the arc made by a crank. Timing setting is therefore expressed as so many degrees BTDC

(before top dead centre). In order to vary the ignition timing the contact opening cam is able to revolve a certain amount round the centre spindle. This is controlled by spring-loaded weights which move out under centrifugal force. When they move out, the spindle to cam position is altered. The distributor is also fitted with a vacuum advance mechanism. The principle of vacuum advance is that as the work load on the engine varies, so does inlet manifold pressure. If that pressure is compared with the atmospheric pressure and the difference used to move the contact breaker mechanism relative

CONDENSER

Fig.4/1 Theoretical ignition circuit

to the distributor cam, the required variation in ignition timing is achieved. Timing

varies with different engines but normally ranges from the static (at rest) advance of approximately 8° BTDC to 36° BTDC. When accelerating and under open throttle condi-

tions the centrifugal control is in operation. The static timing is important of course as the automatic timing advance devices start from this point and consequently if it is incorrect the whole range is affected. The bolt clamp adjustment on the body adjusts

the static ignition setting. (photo)

2

Routine maintenance

a) Spark plugs: Remove the plugs and

thoroughly clean away all traces of carbon. Examine the porcelain insulation round the central electrode inside the plug and if damaged discard the plug. Reset the gap between the electrodes. Do not use a set of plugs for more than 9000 miles. It is false economy.

b) Distributor: Every 9000 miles remove the cap and rotor arm and put one or two drops of engine oil into the centre of the cam recess. Smear the surfaces of the cam itself with petroleum jelly. Do not over-lubricate as any excess could get onto the contact point surfaces and cause ignition difficulties.

or

cracked insulation. Also check all terminal connections for slackness or signs of fracturing of some strands of wire. Partly broken wire should be renewed. The HT leads are particularly important as any insulation faults will cause the high voltage to ‘jump’ to the nearest earth and this will prevent a spark at the plug. Check that no HT leads are loose or in a position where the insulation could wear due to rubbing against part of the engine.

a

1.1 The bolt clamp acting on the body of the distributor

67

White deposits and damaged porcelain insulation indicating overheating

Electrodes burnt away due to wrong heat value or chronic preignition

Mild white deposits and electrode burnt indicating too weak a fuel mixture

FIG.4/2 SAMPLE

SPARK

broken porcelain insulation due to bent central electrode

Excessive black deposits caused by over-rich mixture or wrong heat valve

Plug in sound condition with light greyish brown deposits

PLUG

CONDITIONS

Chapter 4/Ignition system

3

Distributor - contact points - adjustment

1 Remove the distributor cap by unclipping the two clip springs, one each side of the distributor. 2 Pull off the rotor arm from the cam spindle and remove the

plastic dust shield (if fitted). 3 First examine the points by carefully levering them apart with a small screwdriver or something similar. If the faces of the circular contacts are pitted or rough then they cannot be properly set and should be removed for renewal or cleaning up. 4 lf the faces are clean then turn the engine so that the moving

arm

of the breaker

rests with

the follower

on one of the four

high points on the cam. The engine can be turned by engaging a gear and moving the car. 5 Select a feeler blade (0.47 to 0.53 mm, 0.0185 to 0.020 in)

and place it between the points. If the gap is too great, slacken the fixed point locking screw and move the plate to alter the gap. If the gap is too small the feeler blade may still fit between the points as the spring loaded arm can simply move back. When setting them, therefore, the feeler gauge blade should only be a

3.5 The feeler gauge between contact breaker faces

very light touch on each contact face. (photo)

6

Lock the fixed plate screw and recheck

rotor

arm

making

sure

that

the

the gap. Replace the

lug in the rotor

recess

is fully

engaged in the slot on the cam spindle. 7 Check the inside of the distributor cap before replacing it and verify that the four contacts are clean and the centre carbon brush is intact and moves freely.

4

Distributor - contact points - removal and replacement

1 The contact points will need removal if the surfaces are bad enough to require renewal or refacing. Generally it is best to renew the contacts completely as refacing never produces a surface as good as the original, much more rapidly.

and

they will deteriorate

Wally

again

»

4.3 Removing the circlip on the terminal

2 Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and dust shield as described in the previous Section and remove the fixed plate locking screw. 3 Remove the small circlip on the terminal post which also

post , so that the contactor breakers can be removed

secures the end of the spring and lift off the washer. Undo until loose the small nut which secures the lead to the condenser and the spring of the contact breaker arm. Lift upwards the spring contact from the pivot post. Now remove the fixed contact locking screw and lift out this contact. It is wise even for changing contact points to have a set of metric distributor

spanners to avoid the use of pliers. (photo) 4 Replacement is the EXACT reversal of the removal sequence. Do not get anything muddled and take your time.

5

Distributor - condenser - testing, removal and replacement

1

A faulty condenser causes interruptions in the ignition circuit

or total failure.

Elaborate

item is cheap to renew. 2 If the contact points

testing methods become

are pointless as the

pitted after a relatively small

6

Distributor - removal and replacement

1 The distributor will need removal if there are indications that the drive spindle is a sloppy fit in the bushes (causing contact gap setting difficulties) or if it is to be dismantled and thoroughly cleaned and checked. 2 Before removing the distributor it is helpful to prevent future confusion if the engine is positioned with No. 1 piston at TDC on the firing stroke. This can be done by noting the position of the No. 1 plug lead in the cap and then turning the engine to TDC so that the rotor is adjacent to the No. 1 plug position in the cap. (The cap, of course, will be removed to do this). For

details see Section 8 - ‘Ignition timing’. 3 Detach the plug leads from the spark plugs and the coil HT

mileage (under 1000) and if starting is difficult then it is a good

lead from the distributor cap or coil. Remove unclipping the leaf spring clip at each side.

idea to replace the condenser when replacing the points. Another

4

way

push-on connector. 5 The distributor is retained in the timing cover by locked pinch bolt on early ‘315’ engines and later by a plate bolted to the new timing cover.

to check

is to

remove

the

distributor

cap,

rotor

arm

and

dust shield and turn the engine so that the points are closed. Then switch on the ignition and open the points using an insulated screwdriver. There should be a small blue spark visible but if the condenser is faulty there will be a fat blue spark. 3 The condenser is external to the workings of all types of

distributor

fitted

to

this

engine

be

it of

SEV

or

Ducellier

manufacture although it may be either a vertical or horizontal position. Using the correct spanner undo the lead from the condenser to the fixing post on the side of the distributor.

(Some models may be fitted with a metal tag instead). Remove the body of the condenser from the fixing post which also holds one of the distributor cap clips. Fit a new one in reverse order.

Undo

the

LT

lead

at the

coil

- this could

the

cap

be a screw

by

or

Having made a clear reference mark on the distributor case and timing cover, so that there will be no need to retime the engine after replacing the distributor, the retaining bolts may be unscrewed and the distributor drawn out of the bore in the

timing cover. (photo) Of course retiming will be necessary if a new distributor is fitted. 6 Replacement is a reversal of the removal procedure, Check that the rubber sealing ring between the distributor casing and

69

Chapter 4/Ignition system timing cover bore is in good condition. When

inserting the distributor,

line up the rotor arm

on the

rotor shaft with the position of the No. 1 cylinder tag in the distributor cap. Make sure the piston in No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on the firing stroke. The No. 1 cylinder is next to the flywheel, and TDC firing stroke is when the piston is at the top of the cylinder bore after rising with both inlet and exhaust valves closed. Finally when the distributor is fully home, the casing is turned so that the reference marks made before removal line up.

7

Check the static ignition timing as described in Section 8 of

this Chapter.

6.5 Drawing the distributor out of the timing cover

FIG.4/3 THE

‘DUCELLIER’

2

DISTRIBUTOR

(S.E.V. virtually identical) Vacuum advance bellows Condenser Distributor body Centrifugal advance mechanism Centrifugal advance springs AWN AH Cam/lobe plate

7

Cam/lobe plate securing screw

8 9

Distributor cap Rotor arm

10 Contact breaker location plate

11 Contact breaker mechanism support plate 12 Contact breaker set

13 Dust shield (not often fitted) 14 Pin securing drive gear to distributor shaft

15 Drive gear

16 Circlip - retaining shaft in the distributor 17 Thrust washers 18 Distributor body

19 Distributor shaft

shank

70

7

.

Chapter 4/Ignition system

Distributor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly

1 If the distributor is causing trouble with the ignition system it is often a good idea to fit a completely new unit. Without the proper test equipment it is difficult to diagnose whether or not

the centrifugal advance mechanism is performing_as it should. However, play in the shaft bushes can be detected by removing the rotor arm and gripping. the end and trying to move it sideways. If there is any movement then it means that the cam cannot accurately control the contact points gap. This must receive attention. 2

With

the distributor

removed

take

off the rotor, condenser

and contact points as described in Section 4. 3 Remove the felt oil soak washer from the top of the cam. 4 Remove the wire clip from the vacuum advance spigot on the contact breaker plate, and unbolt the advance bellows from the distributor casing. 5 With the bellows removed, the contact breaker plate may be unbolted from the casing. When removing the contact breaker plate, the HT leads may either come away from the case or may need to be disconnected according to distributor pattern.

6 The springs retaining the centrifugal advance weights may be released and the weights eased clear of the pivots on the weight cam

plate.

7 The pin which secures the drive gear to the bottom end of the distributor shaft is now drifted out and the gear removed. 8 Next the circlip and washers, holding the shaft in place in the casing, are removed and the shaft can now be drawn from the distributor. 9 By now you should not have taken too much time dismantling the distributor, and after cleaning the components in petrol or carbon tetrachloride they may be examined for wear. It should be noted that individual distributor components are not particularly easy to obtain. Serious consideration should be given to a new assembly. If, however, you feel you must proceed to dismantle

and

renovate

your

distributor

further,

then

standard engine which is in reasonable condition. It is also assumed that the recommended fuel octane rating 1s used. It is possible today to have an engine checked on special equipment designed to indicate where different faults may be. These instruments are excellent for indicating what may be wrong with your engine in a variety of areas. They do not, however, compute the full combination of settings needed to get the best possible performance from your particular engine as it is. The final check for ignition timing depends solely on the performance of the car on the road in all the variety of conditions that it meets. 2 The static or datum timing is getting the spark to arrive ata particular position on the crankshaft. Most manufacturers stick to the convention of using No. 1 cylinder for this adjustment and the SIMCA is no exception. The crankshaft pulley on the on its periphery, and the timing indicating the degrees either side early ‘315’ engined cars a single

rear of the cover has a of TDC of mark on the

engine has a notch scale marked on it

No. 1 cylinder. On oil pump indicates the static advance of the ignition system. (photo) 3 The procedure for setting the correct static advance is as follows:4 Remove the rocker cover so that the movement of the valves can be monitored. 5 By selecting first gear and pushing the car forwards, turn the engine over (it rotates anti-clockwise when viewed from the rear) until the No. 1 piston is at the top dead centre on the firing stroke.

This position

is identified as that which

follows the rise of

the piston in the cylinder with both inlet and exhaust valves shut. 6 When the No. 1 piston is at TDC the timing notch on the crankshaft pulley should be between 8 and 12 degrees further round in an anti-clockwise direction from the timing mark on

the timing or oil pump cover. 7 As in paragraph 5, turn the engine clockwise - pushing the car

the shaft

backwards

- by % revolution

bush is next. 10 To renew the bush first press or drive out the old one from inside the distributor body. Before fitting a new bush it should

clockwise,

to the position where the timing marks on the pulley

be soaked in engine oil for at least 24 hours - or hot oil for 2 hours - before fitting. It is made of sintered copper/iron and retains its lubricant due to porosity. The new bush should be pushed in from the lower end. When the shoulder part reaches the body the bush should be pressed in with a shouldered mandrel in a press or vice. Any attempt to drive it in - even using blocks of wood - will almost certainly cause it to break up. The bottom and top of the bush should be flush with the distributor body. When fitted the bush should be drilled through in line with the shaft oil drain hole in the body. Make sure there are no burrs or loose metal particles anywhere in the bush. Refit the shaft, lubricate with engine oil. If it is tight it will need ‘running in’ by hand until there are no traces of binding. The bush must not be reamed as this will impair its self-lubricating properties. Do not forget the distance collar on the shaft under the action plate. 11 Reassembly of the distributor is a reversal of the dismantling Process. Do not stretch the centrifugal springs. Smear the contact breaker base plate with a thin film of oil or grease

between it and the moving plate.

8

Ignition timing

1. It is necessary to time the ignition when it has been upset due to overhauling or dismantling which may have altered the relationship between the position of the pistons and the moment at which the distributor delivers the spark. Also, if maladjustments have affected the engine performance it is very desirable, although not always essential, to reset the timing starting from scratch. In the following procedures it is assumed that the intention is to obtain standard performance from the

and then

its proper direction, anti-

and timing or oil pump cover coincide. 8 One final check to ensure that the

correct cylinder

firing position; should

both

be closed,

No.

1 piston

inlet and exhaust

and

the

rockers

is in the

valves for that

slack.

If the

spark

plug is removed for No. 1 cylinder the piston crown should just be visible if a torch light is shone down the plug aperture. 9 The piston in No. 1 cylinder should now be at the correct static firing position. Keep the engine in gear and apply the handbrake to ensure that the engine does not move during the remainder of the operation. 10 Your attention should now be on the distributor. Note where the lead from the No. 1 cylinder spark plug enters the cap, then remove the cap and check the position of the rotor arm contact. The contact should be facing the position of the No. 1 cylinder

terminal in the distributor cap. (photo) If you have found the rotor arm in the position described, the engine has correct static timing. 11 If the rotor arm is not in the desired position then loosen the distributor body clamping bolt and turn the distributor casing so that the No. 1 cylinder spark plug terminal now faces the rotor

arm contact. Once

the

terminal

and

rotor

arm

are

correctly

aligned,

tighten the clamping bolt. It should be realised that some plug leads may have to be replaced with longer leads if the distributor has had to be rotated appreciably. 12 It should be appreciated that the static timing has now been brought to close to the correct position; the final adjustment needs a continuity tester or 12 volt bulb and jumper leads. It is difficult to see exactly when the points are just closed, and a means of doing this electrically is required. 13 It is now necessary to slacken the distributor clamping screw so that the body of the distributor may be turned (whilst the rotor spindle stays still), the distributor should now be turned slightly, one way or the other, so that the contact points are fully open. Th e contact gap MUST be set correctly.

Chapter 4/Ignition system

7

Using a 12 volt bulb and a jumper lead, put one lead to the terminal where the coil LT lead joins the distributor and the other to a good earth on the engine block. With the ignition switched on the bulb will now light. Turn the body of the distributor anti-clockwise until the light just goes out. Then, lightly holding the rotor arm with clockwise pressure, turn the body clockwise again until the light just comes on again. Then tighten the clamping screw. If desired the correctness of the setting can be checked with a stroboscopic timing light but such a device is not essential for accurate setting of the static timing. 14 The performance of the engine should now be checked by road testing. Make any adjustments by loosening the clamp screw and moving the distributor body very slightly to the right to advance it. Lock it again and retest. If the performance is worse repeat the procedure but turn to the left to retard. After a little time going one way or the other, in very small progressions, the ‘optimum’ timing will result. 15 Should the owner wish, he may check the centrifugal advance characteristics of the distributor. For this he will need to employ

an accurate tachometer and a stroboscopic timing timing light. If the distributor was seriously wrong then the performance of the car would be noticeably affected. Should the distributor be suspected of malfunction in this respect it would be best to get it tested on the specialised equipment available at some garages, or simply fit a new one. Often the cost of thorough checking (which involves removing the distributor if it is to be done very precisely) is not far short of the cost of a new unit.

Fig.4/4 Advance and retard markings for static ignition timing on ‘349’ series engines

s

e

3

Me

’

ai

8.2 Timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and oil pump cover - ‘315’ engines if

Check each plug as it is possible that one cylinder condition is different from the rest. Plugs come in different types to suit the particular type of engine. A ‘hot’ plug is for engines which run at lower temperatures than normal and a ‘cold’ plug is for the hotter running engines. If plugs of the wrong rating are fitted they can either damage the engine or fail to operate properly. Under normal running conditions a correctly rated plug in a properly tuned engine will have a light deposit of a brownish colour on the electrodes. A dry black sooty deposit indicates an over-rich fuel mixture. An oily blackish deposit indicates worn bores or valve guides. A dry hard whitish deposit indicates too weak a fuel mixture. If plugs of the wrong heat range are fitted they will have similar symptoms to a weak mixture together with

burnt electrodes (plug too hot) or to an over-rich mixture caked somewhat thicker (plug too cold). Do not try and economise by using plugs beyond 9,000 miles. Unless the engine remains in exceptionally good tune, reductions in performance and fuel economy will outweigh the cost of a new set. 2 The HT leads and their connections at both ends should

8.10 The rotor arm contact facing the No 4 cylinder spark plug terminal on the distributor cap. 9

Spark plugs and HT leads

1 With the development of modern technology and materials, spark plugs are generally very reliable and require minimal attention. When they are due for checking and cleaning it is good practice to have them thoroughly sand blasted, gapped and checked under pressure on the machine that most garages have installed. They can also be used as good indications of engine condition, particularly as regards the fuel mixture being used and the state of the pistons and cylinder bores.

always be clean and dry, and as far as possible, nearly arranged away from each other and nearby metallic parts which could Cause premature shorting in weak insulation. The metal connections at the ends should be a firm and secure fit and free from any signs of corrosive deposits. If any lead shows signs of cracking or chafing of the insulation it should be renewed.

Remember that radio interference suppression is required when renewing any leads. NOTE: It is advisable when removing spark plugs from this engine to use a fully cranked ‘short’ spark plug remover. Be especially careful when refitting plugs to do so without force and screw

them

up

as

far as possible

by hand

first.

Do

not

over-

tighten. The aluminium head does not take kindly to thread crossing and extra force. The proprietary non-cranked plug caps should always be used to ease fitting and to ensure against HT lead shorting.

Chapter 4/Ignition system

12

10 Coil 1. The coil needs an equal amount of attention to the ignition system. Testing the coil is dealt with in 2 The coil is easily removed by unscrewing the two secure it to the rear engine compartment panel. 3 If replacing the coil the new unit should be connector type and voltage.

the rest of Section 11. bolts which

the correct

quick check can be made by turning the engine so that the points are closed. Then switch on the ignition and open the points with an insulated screwdriver. There should be a small visible spark and, once again, if the coil HT lead is held near the block at the same time a proper HT spark should occur. If there is a big fat spark at the points but none at the HT lead then the condenser is done for and should be renewed. If neither of these things happen then the next step is to see

if there is any current (12 volts) reaching the coil (+ terminal). (One could check this at the distributor, but by going back to the input side of the coil a longer length of possible fault is bracketed and could save time). With a 12v bulb and piece of wire suitably connected (or of

11 Ignition faults - symptoms, reasons and remedies

course Engine troubles

normally

associated with, and usually caused

by, faults in the ignition system are: a) Failure to start when the engine is turned.

b) Uneven running due to misfiring or mistiming. c) Smooth running at low engine revolutions but misfiring when under load or accelerating or at high constant revolutions. d) Smooth running at higher revolutions and misfiring or cutting-out at low speeds. a) First check that all wires are properly connected and the engine fails to catch when the starter is operated continue for more than 5 or 6 short burst attempts battery will start to get tired and the problem made Remove the spark plug lead from a plug and turn the

dry. If do not or the worse. engine

again holding the lead (by the insulation!) about % inch from the side of the engine block. A spark should jump the gap audibly and visibly. If it does then the plugs are at fault or the static timing is very seriously adrift. If both are good, however, then there must be a fuel supply fault, so go on to that. If no spark is obtained at the end of a plug lead detach the coil HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and hold that near the block to try and find a spark. If you now get one, then

there is something wrong between the centre terminal of the distributor cap and the end of the plug lead. Check the cap itself for damage or damp, the 4 terminal lugs for signs of corrosion, the centre carbon brush in the top (is it jammed?) and the rotor arm. If no spark comes from the coil HT lead check next that the contact

breaker

points are clean

and that the gap is correct.

A

a voltmeter

if you

have one

handy) connect between the

+ or SW terminal of the coil and earth and switch an the ignition. No light means no volts so the fault is between the battery and the coil via the ignition switch. This is moving out of the realms of just ignition problems - the electrical system is becoming involved in general. With a piece of wire connect the + terminal of the coil to the + terminal on the battery and see if sparks occur at the HT leads once more. If there is current reaching the coil then the coil itself or the wire from its — terminal to the distributor is at fault. Check the — or CB terminal with a bulb with the ignition switched on. If it fails to light then the coil is faulty in its LT windings and needs renewal. b) Uneven running and misfing should first be checked by seeing that all leads, particularly HT, are dry and connected properly. See that they are not shorting to earth through broken or cracked insulation. If they are, you should be able to see and hear it. If not, then check the plugs, contact points and condenser just as you would in a case of total failure to start. c) If misfiring occurs at high speed check the points gap, which may be too small, and the plugs in that order. Check also that the spring tension on the points is not too light thus causing them to bounce. This requires a special pull balance so if in doubt, it will be cheaper to buy a new set of contacts rather than go to a garage and get them to check it. If the trouble is still not cured then the fault lies in the carburation or engine itself. d) If misfiring or stalling occurs only at low speeds the points gap is possibly too big. If not, then the slow running adjustment on-the carburettor needs attention.

Chapter 5 Clutch Contents General description Clutch actuating system ve Clutch master cylinder - removal and dismantling Master cylinder - renovation and refitting Clutch slave cylinder - removal and dismantling Clutch slave cylinder - renovation and assembly Clutch pedal free travel adjustment

1 2 =} 4 5 6 7

Clutch removal = 8 Clutch - inspection and renovation _... B oad taco Clutch-replacement _... 37.10 Clutch operating lever and thrust bearing - dismantling, inspection and reassembly Pa 2 ee roe akcual alht Clutch faults - diagnosis and remedy

...

a

see

ee

VP

Clutch modifications...

Es

=

ae

de

he

be

Specification ‘315’

‘349’ series

"351", ‘371°

Ferodo

Ferodo 160D1

Ferodo 180D1

Transmitted forquie

7m daN

7mdaN

12m daN

Clutch friction disc O.D. Friction plate thickness under load 230 kg

160 mm 7.4+0.4 mm —0.1

160 mm 7.4+9.15 mm —0.35

181.5 mm 8.4 mm

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS (Bracketed figures m daN) Actuating arm pivot pin securing nuts +

‘315’ 5 Ib f ft (0.8)

‘349’ series

16 Ib f ft (2.2) 34 Ib f ft (4.7) 34 Ib f ft (4.7) 7.4 |b f ft (1.0) 16 Ib f ft (2.2) —~—— ne

(2.2) (4.7) (4.7) 12 |b f ft (1.75)

Type

ai

Flywheel protecting plate and silencer bracket bolts Clutch housing to gearbox- securing bolts Clutch housing to engine securing bolts Clutch mechanism to flywheel - securing bolts Slave cylinder to clutch housing - securing bolts Clutch release bearing bracket to gearbox housing

Push rod to actuating lever link Ball joint to clutch housing

1

Generai description

Two types of clutch have been fitted to the SIMCA 1000, both of which are hydraulically operated. The early SIMCA

1000's fitted with the ‘315’ engine (distinguished by the centrifugal oil filter housed in the crankshaft pulley) have a coil spring single plate pattern clutch. The later SIMCA 1000's fitted with the ‘349’ series engine (distinguished by the cartridge oil filter) have a diaphragm spring type clutch. The two clutches have differences in design and are not interchangeable. Each, however, has a cover plate incorporating the coil springs or diaphragm and pressure plate, which bolts onto the flywheel. The friction disc, which is sandwiched between the pressure

(2.25) 11 Ib f ft (1.50) 4.5 Ib f ft (0.75) 33 Ib f ft (4.5)

from the clutch and the pressure plate is allowed to’bear on the friction disc and flywheel. With the disc firmly retained against the flywheel by the force in the coil springs or diaphragm spring, the clutch will transmit the driving torque from the engine to the gearbox. Detailed features of the clutches include the fitting of six coil springs in the friction disc, which smooth out any shock when the friction material is brought into contact with the flywheel. The friction material is not directly connected to the splined hub of the disc - the torque is transmitted via the springs which are arranged circumferentially on the hub.

2

Clutch actuating system

plate and the flywheel, is free floating on splines on the gearbox

input shaft. The mode

of operation is that when the clutch pedal is depressed the thrust bearing moves toward the clutch. The thrust bearing acts on three levers (on the coil spring clutch) or the inner ‘petals’ of the diaphragm (diaphragm clutch) thereby lifting the pressure plate away from the friction disc. The friction disc is now free and the gear shift can be used. When the clutch pedal is released the thrust bearing withdraws

The actuating system is hydraulic, drawing on fluid from the same reservoir as the brake system. The master cylinder is mounted on the same cradle as the braking system master cylinder. It is not in a particularly accessible spot, being above the pedals behind the dashboard. The hydraulic lines are of special plastic tubing and connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, which is situated on

top of the clutch bell housing.

74

&?

FIG.5/1 CLUTCH ACTUATING SYSTEM 1 2 3

Hydraulic oil reservoir Clutch oil reservoir Bolt. Master cylinder to

4

5

pedal cradle Plastic pipe - Reservoir to master cylinder

6

Plastic pipe - Master cylinder to slave cylinder Pipe joint

7 8

Slave cylinder Slave cylinder to clutch bellhousing bolts

FIG.5/2 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 1 2

Cylinder end rubber boot Tagring

3 4

Plastic inlet union and seal Circlip

5 6

Thrust washer Secondary cup and piston

7 8

Primary cup é 3 Primary cup retaining spring

Chapter 5/Clutch

3

Master cylinder - removal and dismantling

5

1 This operation may be completed without removing the pedal assembly; it is a tedious task to remove the pedal assembly. 2 Disconnect the plastic inlet pipe from the plastic union and plug the pipe. 3 Next disconnect the outlet pipe from the end of the master cylinder, have plenty of dry rag about; the hydraulic fluid is corrosive on paintwork. 4 Unscrew the two bolts which attach the clutch master cylinder to the pedal assembly and lift away the cylinder. 5 With the master cylinder on a clean bench proceed to dismantle as follows:6 Remove the boot over the end of the cylinder and push rod. 7 Withdraw the circlip which retains the piston assembly in the cylinder.

8

Extract the thrust washer which lies between the circlip and

Piston assembly.

9 Finally extract the piston, the secondary cup and the primary cup. 10 The primary cup coil spring is now free to be withdrawn from the cylinder. 11 Should it be necessary to remove the plastic inlet union, it is retained by a circular tag spring. Once the spring has been removed the inlet union can be eased out of the bore in the master cylinder together with its rubber seal.

4

Master cylinder - renovation and refitting

1 Once the unit has been dismantled, thoroughly clean all parts in hydraulic fluid - never contaminate any part associated with clutch or brake hydraulic systems with any other solvent. 2 Wipe the components dry with a non-fluffy rag and carefully examine the cylinder bore for wear, scratches or score marks. Replace cylinder if necessary. 3 Always use a complete set of new rubbers and, prior to assembly on the piston, thoroughly wet the primary and secondary cups in CLEAN hydraulic fluid. 4 With all components laid out on a spotlessly clean surface, make sure your hands are free from grease and foreign matter and that your tools are spotlessly clean. 5 Assembly of the master cylinder is the reverse of dismantling sequence - be careful not to damage the fine lips on the piston cups when introducing the piston assembly back into the cylinder. 6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, except that the hydraulic system must be bled from the slave cylinder - see refitting slave cylinder.

75

Clutch slave cylinder - removal and dismantling

1 It is possible to remove the slave cylinder without lowering the engine transaxle assembly. It is necessary to have either a cranked 13 mm ring spanner or a short handled ratchet socket spanner for access to the two bolts which secure the cylinder to the belihousing. 2 The first step is to disconnect the inlet pipe and plug it. 3 Unscrew the two bolts which retain the cylinder to the bellhousing. It will be necessary to feel ones’ way for the most central of the two bolts. 4 Once the bolts have been removed the cylinder and pushrod may be lifted clear. 5 Dismantling is commenced on a clean bench and begins with the withdrawal of the push rod and the removal of the rubber boot over the end of the cylinder. 6 The piston may be extracted and then the bleed screw can be removed. Finally the seal is lifted off the piston. 7 Thoroughly clean all parts in hydraulic fluid ready for inspection.

6

Clutch slave cylinder - renovation and assembly

1 Examine the bore of the cylinder and the periphery of the piston for wear, scratches and score marks. Replace as necessary. 2 Always use a new set of rubbers and thoroughly wet the seal in hydraulic fluid before assembly onto the piston. 3 Assembly follows the reverse sequence to dismantling and refitting to removal, except that the whole clutch hydraulic system must be bled. 4 To bleed the clutch hydraulic system it will be necessary to call upon the services of an assistant. Your assistant’s task will be to pump the clutch pedal so as to force hydraulic fluid through the systern. Your task will be to monitor the level of fluid in the hydraulic reservoir, replenishing as necessary and to examine the

condition

of the fluid being forced out of the pipe attached to

the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. The procedure is that when there are not any air bubbles being carried out of the system by the fluid, the clutch pedal is

held down whilst the bleed screw is tightened. Once tight the bleed pipe and equipment may be removed. 5 It has been found necessary for the front of the car to be jacked up approximately 1 foot for the task of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system. In this altitude the bleeding operation is eased due to the difference in the pressure head between the reservoir and slave cylinder.

6 The final check to be made on the clutch actuating circuit after it has been reassembled and bled is for pedal free travel:-

FIG.5/3 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER 1

Pushrod with anvil and locknut

2 3

Cylinder end boot Piston

4

Seal

5

Bleed screw

76

Chapter 5/Clutch

8

Clutch removal

1 If it is necessary to renew the friction disc or examine the clutch in any way, it will first of all be necessary to remove the gearbox from the engine. 2 To separate the gearbox and clutch, the engine and gearbox assembly must first be lowered from the car as described in Chapter 1. 3 With the engine and gearbox assembly free from the car, the bolts securing the bellhousing to the engine, the starter motor and exhaust silencer bracket may all be removed. 4 Before removing the clutch which is now exposed, mark the position of the cover in relation to the flywheel, so that it may

be put back the same way if reused. (photo) 5 Slacken off the cover retaining bolts % a turn at a time ina diagonal fashion, so as to relieve the coils or diaphragm spring evenly without distortion.

6 When the bolts are removed the friction disc inside will be released. The cover will come away easily and the disc will fall

from the flywheel face. (photo)

Fig.5/5 Slave cylinder location on clutch housing

FIG.5/4 SECTION OF LATER PATTERN SLAVE CYLINDER Main change

is incorporation

of end stop (1) and shorter push

rod (2)

7

Clutch pedal free travel adjustment

1 There should be 0.10 inch free play between the slave cylinder push rod and the thrust bearing fork. If adjustment is required proceed as follows:2 Slacken the nut which locks against the fork anvil and screw in the push rod until there is no free play between the rod piece and fork. Then to obtain the required free travel, unscrew the

push rod by 2 % turns and tighten locknut.

8.6 ‘315’ engine clutch dismantled

77

FIG.5/6 SECTION 1 2

Flywheel Pressure plate

OF 315 ENGINE

Friction disc

5

Thrust plate

4

Clutch cover plate

6

Pressure plate levers

FIG.5/7 349 SERIES ENGINE 1 Friction disc 2 Release mechanism incorporating diaphragm spring

CLUTCH

3

3 4

Thrust bearing. Ball race Spring clip retaining thrust bearing to actuating lever

5 6

CLUTCH

7

Coil springs acting on pressure plate

7 8

Thrust bearing bracket Clutch bellhousing

ASSEMBLY

Clutch actuating lever Ball pivot for lever

78

9

Chapter 5/Clutch

Clutch - inspection and renovation

1 Unfortunately it is not possible to inspect the clutch without going to the considerable trouble of removing the assembly. Consequently, one waits for trouble to develop or makes a decision to check and overhaul it anyway at a specific mileage. Wear of the clutch friction disc depends a great deal on how the car has been driven. Habitual clutch slipping will obviously cause rapid wear. If it is assumed that the friction disc will need replacement at 35,000 miles and will be worth replacing at 25,000 miles there will be no significant waste of time and money if the work is done. Of course, a history of the car is very valuable for this decision. If, on the other hand, trouble is awaited, action must be taken immediately it occurs; otherwise further more costly wear could occur. Trouble usually comes in the form of slipping, when the engine speeds up and the car does not; or squealing, denoting that the friction material is worn to the rivets; or juddering denoting all sorts of things (see Faults Diagnosis ). Wear on the carbon thrust release ring or ball release bearing which presses onto the centre of the diaphragm every time the clutch is operated could also cause squealing if the wear was extreme. If the clutch is not examined when wear is apparent the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate may be severely scored and call for costly replacement. 2 Having decided to dismantle the clutch, first examine the faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate. They should be smooth and shiny. If they are slightly ridged or scored, a new friction disc will be enough to regain satisfactory performance. If there is severe scoring, be prepared to buy a new pressure plate assembly and/or flywheel. It is possible to skim the face of the flywheel but engineering advice should be sought. If a new flywheel is obtained it will have to be matched to balance the same as the original. (Make sure it is the correct flywheel). If you hurriedly put the badly scored surfaces back together with a new friction plate you will achieve short-lived results only. After a few thousand miles the same trouble will recur and judder will always be present in some form or another. 3 The friction plate lining surfaces should be at least 0.8 mm above the heads of the rivets, otherwise the disc is not really worth putting back. If the friction lining material shows signs of chipping or breaking up or has black areas caused by oil contamination it should also be renewed. Oil contamination will be confirmed by signs of oil which may be visible on the

4 With the friction plate centralised the cover bolts should be tightened diagonally evenly and progressively. On new clutches officially supplied the six coil type comes ready compressed with four wedges to enable this process of fitting to be undertaken easily. Do not disturb these until the clutch is fully fitted. Be just as careful with the diaphragm type so as not to distort it or strip threads in the flywheel. It is a good idea to replace the fixing bolts with new each time a new clutch is fitted. Remove the centralising tool. Before refitting the gearbox to the engine do not forget to check the clutch release bearing and operating

mechanism (photo).

10.1 No grease marks on the driven plate faces

flywheel or in the release bearing (on the gearbox). Consideration must be given to curing any such leaks before refitting the existing clutch discs but it is hardly worth it. With a new assembly you know that the splines and the disc itself are in good condition. 10.2 The centre plate next. Note the ‘long’ centre of the driven plate facing away

10 Clutch - replacement

1 If the original cover is being reused line up the marks made before removal, and support the friction disc on one finger between cover and flywheel so that the shortest boss faces the flywheel on coil spring clutches and offset side of the total plate

on diaphragm clutches (photo). 2 Locate the cover on the flywheel and then place all the cover bolts in position and screw them up lightly by hand. 3 It is necessary to line up the centre of the friction disc with the exact centre of the flywheel. This is easily done if a piece of shouldered bar can be placed in the counter bore at the flywheel centre with the large diameter supporting the friction disc. If you do not have such a thing, the disc may be lined up by eye if the engine is out of the car. For the man flat on his back on a cold concrete floor with his eyes full of grime it is certainly worthwhile making up some sort of centralising tool from a piece of broom handle or tube to get reasonably accurate Positioning. If this is not done great difficulty (and possible damage to the gearbox input shaft) may be experienced when

the time comes to refit the gearbox to the engine (photo).

Chapter 5/Clutch thrust

10.4 *315’ engine thrust bearing and actuating lever in bellhousing

11 Clutch operating lever inspection and reassembly

and

thrust

bearing

- dismantling,

79 ring

(if fitted)

more

quickly

than

normal,

the only

malfunction of the clutch one would expect would be routine wear of the friction plate. This normal wear will become obvious as the clutch starts to slip; that is the engine turns normally but the car fails to accelerate properly or slows down on hills. In such cases the clutch must be examined and repaired immediately, if necessary. Delay could be more costly. The gearbox will have to be taken off for this job. 2 Squealing noises from the clutch (and make sure they are from the clutch and not the fan belt or water pump) are most likely to come from a worn out clutch release bearing. The actual efficiency of the clutch may not be immediateiy affected but damage could be caused to the thrust boss on the driving plate if no action is taken. Another reason for squealing couid be a worn out or oil contaminated friction plate. In such instances the next symptom one could expect would be clutch slip. Do not wait for that however as the friction plate rivets could be scoring up the flywheel or pressure plate surfaces. Once again inspection and repair involves gearbox removal. 3 Failure to disengage the clutch (sometimes referred to as ‘clutch spin’) when the pedal is fully depressed, can be caused by one or more of several factors. Symptoms are the total inability or considerable difficulty in engaging any gear at rest - and when a gear is engaged it will be accompanied by a nasty crunch and the car bucking forwards (or backwards!). First check that the cable is moving the actuating lever when the pedal is depressed. It could be a broken or frayed (stretched) clutch cable. If the cable is right then the fault may be due to the friction plate sticking to the pressure plate or flywheel due to rusted splines which prevent it from floating fore and aft on the gearbox input

condition is allied to a well worn clutch friction disc, difficulty may be experienced in disengaging the clutch. The limit of bearing travel will have been reached before the release mechanism has been worked sufficiently. 3 A new carbon bearing will project approximately % inch from the housing and should be renewed if it is significantly less than this. The ball race pattern of bearing is less likely to wear, but it may become dry and fail. It is very often noisy and should be replaced if it runs out of true. 4 To renew the release thrust bearing, the clutch bellhousing must be separated from the engine, the whole assembly having been lowered from the car as described in Chapter 1. 5 The lever is mounted on a bracket which is bolted to the bellhousing. The thrust bearing is held on the lever arm by two spring steel clips, which when released, allow it to be drawn off

shaft. This is not unusual if the car has been standing unused for a long time. Try engaging a gear, with the engine stopped and handbrake on; then depress the clutch and try starting the engine. If the clutch is seized solid the engine will not turn over but if you are lucky and the engine starts and the clutch can be slipped it should be possible to get it back to normal! operation after using it a few times. Rust on the friction faces as well as on the splines will have the same effect and can be cured by the same treatment. If the clutch spin does not eventually disappear completely then some other defect such as distortion on the pressure faces may be the cause and this will involve dismantling. Thirdly, the cause could be a worn out thrust bearing allied to a well worn clutch plate. Squealing noises, each time the clutch is operated, will be an indication of this and dismantling will be necessary. 4 Another fault is judder - particularly to be noticed when the clutch is taking up the drive. Although the symptom is noticed when the clutch is operated, the clutch is not necessarily the culprit. Check the condition of the engine mountings - two forward and one at the end of the gearbox. If the engine vibrates and rocks excessively when started up it would indicate that they are spongy or broken. Then check that the universal joints on the drive shafts are not worn and that the front suspension is

the gearbox input shaft (refer to photo 10/4).

secure and free from excessive backlash. Defective front dampers

1 When the clutch pedal is-depressed, the hydraulic system actuates the lever which pivots on a bracket bolted to the face of

the bellhousing. The lever forces the thrust bearing - carbon or ball race - against the steel boss at the centre of the release mechanism of the clutch cover. 2 In time the carbon ring bearing will wear away and if this

6 Replacement is the reversal of the removal sequence. Should the release lever arm require removal, the pivot bracket or pivot pin clip holding it in position on the bellhousing, may be removed. 7 On the ‘315’ engine installations, the release arm pivots ona Plastic bearing in the support bracket. Remove the pivot axle and examine the bearing for wear. 8 On ‘349’ series engine installations the lever arm pivots ona spherical head pin and those bearing surfaces should be examined for wear. Replace worn parts as necessary. 9 Once again it is imperative that the correct replacement parts are used, the two patterns of clutch assembly are different in so many

respects.

can also cause drive judder. If diagnosis finally indicates that the fault lies in the clutch it will be caused by wear, contamination, or distortion in one or other of the components, and dismantling will be needed to ascertain for sure what is causing it.

13 Modifications to clutch

1

From transaxle

No 5078 959 release lever arm mounted

on

plastic bearing. (only new arms available as spare).

2

From transaxle No 5159 237 release lever arm return spring

fitted on the outside of the clutch bell housing. 3 From transaxle No 5508873 shape of carbon ring changes in

detail, to include a 60° chamfer and lubrication holes.

12 Clutch faults - diagnosis and remedy

4 Since the beginning of 1967 the friction disc has been fitted with linings marked F755. These new treated lines do not stick

1 Provided the clutch is not intentionally slipped excessively, or the pedal used as a footrest, which may wear out the carbon

to the flywheel or pressure plate. Early disc materials were marked A3S. 5 From shell No 20-0068 the flexible tube between slave and

80 Chapter 5/Clutch ee Saami ena, e Ee master cylinder requires a longer connecting screw into the master cylinder. The new screw has a 4 mm lead which fits new shape orifice on the master cylinder. 6 As from shell No J21 0158 a double seal secondary cup is fitted to the master cylinder. The piston and secondary cup assembly can be mounted in old cylinders.

7 As from engine Nos. 5429711 and 6213056 a new slave cylinder is fitted. A plain seal cup instead of a circular seal is fitted to a new cast iron piston. A piston stop is fitted to the end of the cylinder bore to ensure that a small quantity of oil is always in the cylinder.

The push rod is 7 mm shorter (new length 68.5 mm). The new slave cylinder is only interchangeable as a complete unit. 8 As from shell No. A23 0406 the sealing boot on the master cylinder end fits over the outside of the cylinder instead of inside the cylinder bore. The new and old caps are not interchangeable but the master cylinder assemblies with caps are.

9 As from engine Nos. 5662 543 and 5808 342, a heavier flywheel is fitted. This change necessitated a modification to the clutch housing blanking plate.

When

replacing the old flywheel

with the new heavier typea

new blanking plate must be fitted. The new blanking plate itself can be fitted to both old and new types of flywheel. 10 As from transaxle No 5807478 the clutch bellhousing and operating lever fitted to the SIMCA 1200s Coupe is now fitted to the SIMCA 1000. SIMCA will supply old pattern housings while stocks last; but old pattern operating levers will always be available. If an old pattern clutch housing is to be replaced, the new housing can be fitted with new housing to engine bolts, housing to silencer brackets bolts, and the new clutch actuating lever assembly.

11 From January 1968 the engine flywheel and clutch assembly are dynamically matched in production. There will be two yellow marks which indicate respectively:a) the position of the heavier spot on the clutch mechanism. b) the position opposite the heaviest spot on the flywheel. It is essential that whenever the clutch assembly is fitted to the flywheel, either a used or a new replacement assembly; the position of the clutch is selected so that the marks on the flywheel and clutch will be as near as possible. The whole flywheel and clutch unit should then be as dynamically balanced as possible.

Chapter 6 Gearbox and transmission unit-Manual and Automatic Contents

General description Transmission unit - removal anidfeplacement

:

Gearbox dismantling Differential dismantling Inspection for wear of transmission eormpouents

General description

oh

The ‘manual’ transmission Gearbox and 1 Gear selector 2 Removal and 3 4 Speedometer Fault finding 5

differential reassembly mechanism he replacement of Gearchanae entre mechanem cable

Torque converter

12 13 14

Gearshift mechanism

sec

Modifications to the manual and Ritomatie transmissions

Manual 4 forward,

11/39 17/36 22/31 27/26 14/48

1 reverse

Bol Qala 1.4:1 0.96:1 3.4:1

(3.7 litres)

EP90

Shell DONAX

Differential general. Integral with gearbox. Ratio:

Up to Series

E Models 1969

Then LS (359 engine) GL (3498S engine) GLS (351 engine) Road speed in top gear:

Automatic 1969 ... LS models GL GLS

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS Ring gear to differential housing bolts Differential gear sealing cover support bolts

Differential gear bearing cap bolts : Bearing retainer plate to outlet shaft bolts Bearing retainer nut to outlet shaft Front cover to gearbox bolts Fork and selector lever to shaft bolts Drive cover to gearbox housing bolts Drive tube bearing support to floor bolts , Bolts and nuts joining connecting rod to drive tube vid selector lever to gearbox

Automatic 3 forward, 1 reverse

2.5:1 1.5:1 0.96:1 3.4:1

(1.75 litres)

Oil capacity Grade ...

oe

_...

Specifications

No. of gears Ratios: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse

6 7 8 9

10

The ‘automatic’ transmission Automatic transmission fault finding ... 11

Transmission unit removal and replacement ae Gearbox and differential dismantling and reassembly

at on

8/35 8/43 8/35 9/37 24 km/hr 24 km/hr

20.5 km/hr 24 km/hr 26 km/hr

Ib f ft 48 15

(m daN) (6.5) (2.0)

34

(4.7)

16

(2.2)

133 16 Kes! 16

(18) (2.2) (1) (2:2)

The

(1)

16

(2.2)

T6

oS eG .... 17

82

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

a

Wheel shaft locking nut and flexible joint mounting Wheel shaft to flexible joint bolts Torques Automatic transmission bellhousing valve assy cover bolts Output shaft seal retainer bolts... is Converter oil pump cover bolts... ane Starter ring gear plate to converter, bolts Air grill to bellhousing, bolts

THE MANUAL

1

The design of manual transmission unit for the SIMCA 1000 has remained unchanged since the cars’ introduction to the U.K. in 1962. The configuration of the gearbox and differential. is quite common, almost identical transmission systems being fitted to Fiat 850 for example. The drive comes from the flywheel/clutch assembly, through a split primary shaft over the top of the differential and into the main gearbox casing. The primary shaft transmits motion via four forward gears to the pinion shaft on which there is the main gear cluster and synchromesh. The reverse gear is on a third shaft mounted in the gearbox casing. Motion is then transmitted, when a gear is engaged, by the spiral bevel pinion gear on the pinion shaft, to the crownwheel and then to the drive shafts. The gear selector forks are mounted on the side of the gearbox casing in a separate cover, and are operated to and fro and in rotation by the gear shift mechanism joined at the front of the gearbox. The selector forks engage sliding sleeves, which are dogged to the output pinion shaft, and impel them over the synchronizer to mesh with the appropriate gear train.

The gear ratios in the gearbox have remained unchanged, but the final drive ratios have changes as outlined in the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. Although already described as a common design there are nevertheless a few words of warning which must be stated before any potential dismantler begins work, to let them know what they are letting themselves in for. First of all decide whether the fault you wish to repair is worth all the time and effort involved. Secondly, if the transmission unit is in a very bad state, then the cost of the necessary component parts may well exceed the cost of an exchange factory unit. Thirdly, be absolutely sure that you understand how the transmission works. Regarding the last point the synchromesh system employed in the gearbox is of some interest. The design is of Porsche origin and is comprised of ‘Porsche hubs’, which are splined on the output shaft, sliding

which

are

doggéd

to the

hubs,

synchronizing

rings,

springs locking pieces, and finally a synchronizing ring gear. The mechanism works as follows:-

a) The gear selector fork which is engaged on the sliding sleeve moves the sleeve toward the gear train to be selected.

b) As

the

(17) (4.7)

12 10

(1.8) (1.5)

10

(1.5)

15 15

(2) (2)

TRANSMISSION

General description

sleeves

126 34

sleeve

approaches

the

gear,

it passes

over

the

synchronizing ring, compressing the ring. c) Due to the contraction of the ring, one of its ends is brought to abut a locking piece. The movement of the locking piece is restrained by two spring strips which lie underneath the synchronizing ring and which themselves abut a stop which is keyed into the hub of the gear to be engaged. d) The synchronizing ring is forced against the sliding sleeve Passing over it, by the spring strips being compressed beneath it. The friction force between the ring and sleeve passes from the circumference of the synchronizing ring to the end abutted against the locking piece, from the locking piece through one of the spring strips beneath the ring to the stop which is keyed to the output gear of the train being engaged. The friction between synchronizing ring and sleeve therefore serves to bring the speed

of the

gear

(which

is dogged

train

to

be engaged,

through

the

to that of the sliding sleeve

Porsche

hub,

to the gearbox

output shaft). The matching of the sleeves speed and the gear train speed is essential for quiet gear selection. e) Finally the sleeve reaches the mating ring gear which is brazed on the output gear of the train. The sleeve is held in engagement with the gear by the synchronizing ring, which now acts to lock the position of the sleeve, because it is held in a groove machined on the inside face of the sleeve.

2

Transmission unit - removal and replacement

1 On the SIMCA 1000 the transmission cannot be removed without lowering the engine from the car. This is because there is no access to essential nuts and bolts with the transmission and engine in their installed position. The procedure for gearbox removal follows that for engine removal described in Chapter 1, the transmission unit being separated from has been lowered from the car. 2 For engine/transmission unit removal,

the engine when

drain

the

it

cooling

system. 3 Disconnect the battery, disconnect the HT and LT leads from the ignition coil, disconnect the leads to the dynamo/alternator and starter motor identifying as necessary. 4 Disconnect and plug the inlet fuel pipe from the petrol pump, and disconnect the choke and throttle cables from the carburettor. 5 Remove the clutch slave cylinder, the earthing strap.

6

Remove the rubber bellows connecting the fan cowling to the

radiator duct, and remove the iower radiator hose, the top radiator hose and the car heater hose which joins on the thermostat elbow. 7 Remove the water temperature and oil pressure sender leads,

and the speedometer cables and gear shift connections to the gearbox underneath the rear seats. 8 Next undo the bolts securing the drive shaft to the rear wheel flexible joint.

9 The engine/transmission unit removal is fully detailed in Chapter 1, 10 After raising the rear of the car on jacks or car ramps, support the engine with a jack under the front position of the sump and remove the bolts securing the engine and transmission support members to the chassis of the car. 11 The assembly may now be lowered from the car so that the tr@nsmission may be separated from the engine. 12 The starter motor is now separated from

the clutch bellhousing, together with the blanking plate and silencer support bracket. 13 The major bolts securing the clutch bellhousing to the engine are now unscrewed, allowing the transmission to be carefully pulled clear. It is essential to be careful when removing the transmission, since the gearbox input shaft locates in the splined hub of the clutch plate and a bush in the centre of the flywheel. The flywheel bush bore must not be damaged and the clutch plate

must not be distorted. 14 With the transmission clear of the car and engine, liberally coat it with solvent such as Gunk and wash down the unit with a strong jet of water. Lastly, dry with a non-fluffy rag. The unit

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission should now be clean and free from foreign matter, ready for dismantling. 15 Replacement of the transmission is the reverse of the removal sequence. Remember to carry out the checks on carburettor controls, and other systems outlined in Chapter 1, that have been disturbed during the removal and replacement of the engine and transmission. Do not forget to refill the gearbox with 1.1/3 pints Castrol EP90 gear oil.

3

Gearbox - dismantling

With the transmission separate from the engine and placed on a

clean

workbench,

dismantle

the

transmission

unit

in the

following manner:1 Undo and remove the four bolts that secure the oil boot cover to the transmission/clutch housing. 2 Lift off the oil boot cover and carefully draw the drive shafts from the transmission unit. 3 Lift away the old gasket and clean off traces of gasket or

RETAINING

RING

SYNCHRONIZING

GEAR

83

jointing compound, 4 Lift away the oil boot baffle from each side of the transmission unit, this part has a lug which engages in one of the castellations in the bearing adjusting ring to lock it in position,

(photo). 5 Undo and remove the five bolts and washers clutch bellhousing to the gearbox casing.

6

Recover the gasket from the gearbox casing. (photo)

7

Carefully draw the clutch housing from the transmission unit.

8 Using a soft metal drift, carefully unscrew the two bearing adjusters. To act as a guide count the number of revolutions of the adjusters whilst they are being removed. 9 Mark the differential carrier caps relative.to the transmission unit housing so that they may be correctly refitted in their Original positions. 10 Undo and remove the differential carrier cap securing bolts and spring washers, keeping them in order so that they can be refitted in their original positions. Lift away the two carrier caps.

(photo) 11 The

differential

SYNCHRONIZING

carrier

RING

may

now

be lifted away

SPRING STRIP STOP

=

\

LL

SLIDING SLEEVE PORSCHE

RING GEAR

SPRING STRIP

LOCKING PIECE

HUB

Fig.6/2 Diagramatic view of synchronizing operation

A = Neutral position

securing the

B = Synchronising period

C = Gear engaged

from the

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission 84 a

Na

transmission unit housing.

shaft rear (speedo drive end) bearing.

12 Undo and remove the six nuts and spring washers securing the speedometer drive and end cover to the transmission casing. 13 Carefully draw the end cover from the transmission casing. Recover the paper gasket. (photo) 14 Undo and remove the eight bolts and spring washers securing

end of the gearbox input shaft. 25 Again using circlip pliers extract the circlip located on the circumference of the input shaft at the speedo drive end of the

24 Using a pair of circlip pliers extract the circlip located on the

box - the front of the box. (photo)

18 Tap out the reverse idler gear shaft and lift away the reverse idler gear. Make a note of which way round the reverse idler gear is fitted. 19 With a screwdriver ease out the lock ring securing the drive Pinion/output shaft nut.

26 With a soft faced hammer gently drift the input shaft a few tenths of an inch toward the differential end of the gearbox casing. 27 There should now be enough space to get a drift against the bearing at the front of the box and to tap it gently out. (photo) 28 Gently tap the input shaft further toward the differential end of the box, so that the bearing on that end of the shaft comes clear of the gearbox casing. 29 Remove the circlip on the differential end of the input shaft which locates the ball bearing race. 30 Move the input shaft eccentric in the bearing bore so that the bearing rests on the gearbox casing. 31 Then with a soft faced hammer drift out the input shaft towards the front end of the gearbox, out of the ball bearing

20 Select two gears by moving two synchronizer sleeves into engagement. With a socket or ring spanner unscrew and remove

resting on the casing. (photo) 32 Lift away the input shaft and bearing. (photo)

the side cover to the transmission casing. 15 Lift away the side cover and recover

the

paper

washer.

(photo) 16 Using a screwdriver lift away the wire circlip retaining the shear pin which secures the joint in the gearbox input shaft.

Remove the pin and lift away the freed shaft. (photo) 17 Carefully draw out the reverse idler gear shaft securing pin to be found on the side cover to transmission casing mating face.

(photo)

the drive pinion output shaft nut. (photo) 21 Carefully output

using a soft faced

hammer

drift

out

33 Undo and remove the three bolts and tag washers securing the drive pinion output shaft bearing outer race to the gearbox

the pinion

shaft. Be prepared to recover the ball bearings from the

casing.

pinion head race. (photo)

34 Using a soft metal drift gently tap the outer race from the casing. (photo)

22 The first and second, third and fourth gear clusters may now

be

lifted

out

of the

gearbox,

and

note

their

location

and

35 The gearbox is now completely dismantled and the parts should be washed thoroughly and wiped dry with a non-fluffy

orientation. (photo) 23 Using a soft metal

drift carefully

tap out the drive output

rag.

N \

i——_-—___. Mi

FIG.6/3 SECTION OF GEARBOX Differential drive pinion Double ball race

First gear Sliding sleeve with gear also

Second gear

8

gear selection Top gear

Third gear

9

Output gear bearing bushes

used when reverse is selected

Sliding sleeve - 3rd and 4th

10 Input shaft 11 Reverse gear on idler shaft 12 Input shaft coupling

iv de

Se

3.4 Remove baffler plate which locks differential adjusting ring

3.6 Lift bellhousing clear of gearbox

3.10 Remove differential mounting caps

3.13 Lift clear the gearbox end.cover, incorporating the speedometer drive

3.15 Remove the gear selector mechanism

3.16 Remove the input shaft coupling from the gearbox input shaft

3.17 Extract reverse gear shaft retaining

3.20 Withdraw the clip which locks the

3.21 Tap the output shaft out of the gear-

pin

output shaft main nut

box

at

2

*

m

3.21a Withdraw the output shaft from the gearbox

‘

biti.

ee

:

:

3.22 Lift the gear clusters out of the box

oi

tise

3.25 Remove the circlip on the end of the input shaft with circlip pliers.

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

86

4

Differential - dismantling

1 The final drive and differential is held to the gearbox casing by two caps and four long bolts. The crownwheel/drive gear, together with the differential gears are mounted on a cage which is in turn located by two taper roller bearings. The drive pinion is on the end of the gearbox output shaft. The crownwheel/drive gear and drive pinion are a matched pair, it is not possible to renew either gear separately - a new pair will be necessary. 2 Having removed the engine, separated the transmission unit from the engine, and removed the clutch bellhousing and drive shaft assembly from the unit the differential is easily accessible. See Section 3 for full procedure. 3 Removing the four bolts and lifting away the two caps, after marking them to ensure correct alignment on refitting, will allow the differential to be separated from the gearbox. 4 Lift away the two roller bearing outer tracks keeping them apart so that they can be refitted in their original positions unless the bearings are to be renewed. 5 Using a two legged puller and a suitable thrust block, gently draw the bearing inner cones from the differential cage. 6 Mark the relative positions of the crownwheei and differ-

ential cage and then undo and remove the bolts and washers securing the ‘wheel’ to the cage. 7 Remove the crownwheel from the cage. It may be necessary to tap it with a soft hammer to unseat it. 8 Using a suitable diameter drift, drive out the differential pinion gear shaft and recover the gears by rotating them and lifting out through the differential cage aperture. 9 Ease out the two side driven gears from their bores in the cage, and lift away through the differential cage apertures. Note the thrust washer fitted behind each side gear head.

5

Inspection for wear in transmission components

Gearbox 1 Carefully examine all components, starting with the synchromesh assemblies. Make sure that the various parts do not show sign of wear or damage, but if evident, a complete new assembly must be obtained. 2 Examine the gear wheels for excessive wear and chipping of teeth. If a tooth is damaged on the input shaft it is likely that

ann

3.32 Lift the input shaft out of the box

the corresponding tooth on the drive pinion output shaft is damaged too. 3 Check the ball bearings for wear by holding the inner track and turning the outer track. Any roughness in movement indicates wear. Next, again holding the inner track, check for sideways movement. Obtain a new bearing if wear is evident. 4 Inspect all transmission casing threads for damage and, if evident, the hole will have to be drilled oversize, a new thread cut and a new bolt obtained. 5 Examine the ends of the selector forks where they rub against the channels in the synchronizer rings. If possible compare the selector forks with new units to help determine the wear that has occurred. Renew them if worn. 6 Check the splines on the end of the drive pinion rear output

shaft and the sleeve retaining pin for signs of wear. 7 Inspect the end of the clutch shaft where it enters the rear of the crankshaft for signs of scoring, picking up or flats and if damage is apparent renew the shaft. 8 Inspect the reverse idler shaft and ensure that it has a smooth surface with no signs of pitting or scoring. The clearance between the reverse idler and shaft must not exceed 0.008 inch

(0.2 mm). 3.34 Tap the double row bearing outer race out of the gearbox casing

9 Check the shifter rail detent ball bearings and safety rollers are free to move within their seats. They must not be pitted, or their movement tight. This can cause difficult or automatic

disengagement in both drive and overrun conditions.

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

87

a

Differential 10 Clean all parts with paraffin and rag. 11 Examine the gears for wear, and Check the thrust washers for wear differential pinion shaft for wear or

dry with a clean non-fluffy

housing.

12 If there was excessive noise in the drive or overrun conditions, this may be caused by excessibe backlash between the differential pinions and side gears. Obtain new thrust washers as described in Section 6, as these are a selective fit. 13 Carefully inspect bearings for signs of wear of the inner or outer tracks, the taper rollers or roller cage. If it was noticed that the bearing cones were easily removed from the differential cage, check to see if there are signs of the cones rotating on the differential cage. Should any of these conditions exist, new

bearings must be obtained. 6

Gearbox and differential reassembly

1 Always use new washers, gaskets and joint washers throughout reassembly. Generously lubricate all the gears, bushes and bearings with oil as they are being assembled, except where indicated to the contrary 2 Check that all oilways, in the various parts of the transMission unit, are clear. Also ensure that the interior of the casing is clean and that there are no burrs on studs or bolt holes on the bearing housings. i 3 Commence reassembly by inserting the output shaft pinion end bearing outer track. 4 Fit the three tag washers, spring washers and bolts that secure the outer bearing track in the casing. Make sure the tags locate in the milled slots. 5 Tighten the three bolts fully. 6 Insert the gearbox input shaft into the gearbox, so that it projects through the two bores which now must accept the two bearings. 7 Turn the gearbox casing onto its ‘differential end’ and place a block of wood under the input shaft to keep it roughly in Position in the casing. 8 Take the bearing which fits the input shaft at the speedo drive end of the box (now uppermost on the bench) and introduce it to the shaft and bore. The circlip groove on the outer track should be furthest away from the large diameter gear next to the bearing. 9 With a soft metal drift gently tap the bearing over the shaft and into the bore. Finally fit the two circlips, one of which

retains the shaft in the bearing, the other fits around the bearing outer track and should be up against the gearbox casing (to locate the bearing). 10 Turn the gearbox onto the speedo drive end and fit the small bearing over the input shaft into the gearbox casing bore. Using a soft metal drift tap it along the input shaft until it abuts the shoulder on the shaft and fits the circlip which retains it in position. There is no positive location of this bearing in the gearbox casing bore. 11 Check

that

the

input

shaft

bearings

and

the

circlips are

correctly positioned, the larger bearing might have moved during the fitting of the smaller, and will need tapping back into position. Turn the shaft to ensure that it rotates freely and smoothly. , 12 If the synchromesh units were dismantled, they should be assembled next. 13 Fit the spring strip stop and synchro-ring locking piece onto the gear, then the two spring strips and finally the synchro-ring

around them all. Fit the deep circlip on the gear to retain the synchromesh mechanism components in place. 14 Slip the gear bearing into the bore to complete the assembly of that gear. 15 Assemble first, second, third and fourth gears and synchromesh in the manner described and place them with the Porsche hubs and sliding sleeves into two main clusters. (photo) One cluster should comprise the first gear assembly (largest diameter

EEE

EEEREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeEeneennnmntt

with helical cut gear teeth) the Porsche

hub and sliding sleeve

with

second

straight

(second chipped or damaged teeth. or cracking, and the centre a loose fit in the differential

EEE

cut

gear

largest gear,

teeth

gear

and

teeth

the

gear

helical cut). The

assembly

other gear

cluster should comprise the third gear assembly (third largest gear, helical cut teeth), the Porsche hub and sliding sleeve, and the fourth gear assembly (smallest diameter gear, helical cut teeth). Make sure the synchromesh mechanisms on the gear assemblies are together, each side of the Porsche hub and sliding sleeve. 16 The next task is the assembly of the output shaft, pinion end, double ball race bearing. If the bearing was compietely removed

(using special tool 39966P, 8 x 35 pinion/crownwheel ratio, or 20948G, 8 x 43 ratio or 20947X and 20958A for 9 x 37 ratio) and if the pinion thrust washer is to be re-used to the thickness of the new one is already determined, (see paragraph 53 of this Section) then proceed as follows: 17 Fit the thrust washer onto the shaft behind the pinion. 18 Take one track of the inner race, heat it in oil to 60°C and slide quickly on the output shaft. Ensure that it is correctly aligned, the rise/shoulder of the track should be nearest to the gear. Use a 36 mm bore tube, 210 mm long to drift the inner track home. 19 The balls and cage are assembled onto the inner track and coated liberally with Castrol LM Grease to hold the balls and cage together. 20 Keeping the other inner track separate from the shaft, assemble the balls and cage on it in the manner described for its twin. 21 Place the gearbox casing on its differential end, and insert the

free ball race assembled

in grease into the outer track on the

gearbox interior side. Ensure that the rise or shoulder of the inner track is toward the gearbox interior. 22 The output shaft should now be carefully inserted into the gearbox from the differential end, passing through the inner race of the pinion bearing already in place. 23 Now slide the first, reverse, second gear cluster onto the output shaft. The first gear should be toward the double ball race, and the sliding sleeve with the Porsche hub may have to be slightly rotated so that the splines on the hub and shaft align. 24 Pushing the output shaft further into the gearbox, slide the third and fourth gear cluster onto the shaft. 25 At this stage you must hope that the Castrol LM Grease, with which you coated the double ball races with, will successfully

hold the ball assemblies

intact during these final stages of the

output shaft’s assembly. 26 Carefully ease the output shaft further into the box, so that the free inner track of the double race bearing may be slid onto the seating on which the other inner track has already been

fitted. 27 Finally push the single race bearing onto the speedometer drive end of the shaft - tapping it gently down against the fourth gear bearing shoulder. 28 The shaped nut is screwed onto the end of the output shaft

and tightened to 133 Ib f. ft (18 mda N). The output shaft may locked

be

by moving the gear selector sleeves to engage two gears.

(photo) 29 Adjust the position of the shaped nut until the wire clip can be inserted through the nut and into the groove in the end of the output shaft. Fit the wire clip to lock the nut. 30 Position the reverse idler gear in the gearbox casing so that the fork slot is toward the differential end of the gearbox. 31 Slide the idler gear shaft into position, if necessary adjusting the position of the pin hole with a small electricians’ screwdriver. 32 Insert the idler shaft retaining pin into the casing, through the hole in the idler gear shaft. 33 Lubricate the splines on the input shaft, and fit the coupling sleeve over the shaft so that the hole in the sleeve lines up with the dowel hole in the input shaft. 34 Carefully tap the dowel pin into position, and with a screwdriver slide the spring clip into position over the sleeve locking the dowel pin in position. 35 Wipe the mating faces of the selector housing and the gearbox casing clean, and the selector forks, and grooves in the

88

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

three sliding sleeves. Fit new gasket to selector housing face. 36 Secure the selector housing on the gearbox with the seven bolts and washers, which should be tightened in a progressive and diagonal manner. 37 Wipe the mating faces of the speedometer drive end cover, and then the transmission cover. Fit a new paper gasket, position the end cover and secure with the six bolts and washers. 38 Tighten the six bolts progressively and diagonally. 39 Wipe the mating surfaces of the gearbox and clutch bellhousing. Place a new gasket in position and secure the bellhousing to the gearbox with the five bolts and spring washers. 40 The differential unit should now be refitted to the transmission. 41 When the differential has been fitted, and the crownwheel and pinion mesh correctly, the drive shafts are refitted together with the oil boots and retaining plates. Differential reassembly:

42 Fit the thrust washers to the differential side gears and slide the two gears into position in the differential cage. 43 Position the two differential pinions into mesh with the differential side gears through the apertures in the differential cage. Rotate the gears through 90° to bring them into their final positions.

44 Insert the centre pinion gear shaft into the differential cage. 45 Using feeler gauges, determine the backlash between the differential pinions and side gears and, if excessive, obtain and fit new thrust washers which are available in eight different thick-

nesses.

The

maximum

backlash

should

not exceed

0.004

inch

(0.10 mm). Thrust washer thickness inch mm 0.0275 0.7 0.0315 0.8 0.0354 0.9 0.0394 1.0 0.0433 1.1 0.0472 12: 0.0512 les, 0.0551 1.4 46 Refit the crownwheel to the differential cage, making sure the mating faces are really clean. If the original crownwheel is being refitted align with the previously made marks. Replace the six securing bolts and spring washers tightening in a diagonal manner to a final torque wrench setting of 43 to 54 Ib f. ft (6 to

52 As a final check smear a little mechanic’s ‘blue’ on several of the teeth on the crownwheel and rotate the crownwheel a few times. Compare the pattern with those given in Fig.6/4. 53 If a new crownwheel and pinion have been fitted and it is impossible to obtain the correct tooth marking by using the crownwheel adjustment alone, it may be necessary to fit a different thickness thrust washer behind the drive bevel pinion. 54 For this the gearbox output shaft will need to be stripped as described in Section 3, and the pinion gear bearing inner race removed using special tool 39966P for 8 x 35 pinion/crownwheel ratio, 20948G for 8 x 43 ratio and 20947X with 20958A for 9 x 37 ratio final drive. With the inner race removed the thrust washer can be changed for a thicker or thinner one as necessary; compare the tooth pattern obtained with those illustrated in Fig.6/4 to determine whether a thicker or thinner washer 1s required. 55 Thrust washers are available in the following sizes: inches mm 0.0354 0.90 0.0374 0.95 0.0394 1.00 0.0413 1.05 0.0433 1.10 0.0453 1.15 56 Assemble the output shaft with the new thrust washer into the gearbox as described earlier in this Section, mount the differential unit and check the tooth pattern again, as described in paragraphs 50 to 52 in this Section. 57 If you have not already done so fit a new gasket to the clutch

housing mating face and refit the housing to the gearbox. Secure in position with the five bolts and spring washers tightening in a diagonal manner.

58 Fit new gaskets to the side of the transmission

7.5 kg m). 47 Using a large bench vice and suitable packing or a large diameter tube, carefully refit the differential cage roller bearing cones to the differential cage. If the original bearings are being refitted make sure they are replaced in their original positions. Ensure the bearings are fitted the correct way round as shown in

Fig.6/4. 48 Fit the differential carrier to the transmission unit housing and then replace the caps in their original positions. Lightly secure the caps with the four bolts and spring washers. 49 Carefully screw in the two adjusters by the same amount as was noted during removal and then tighten the four cap bolts to

a torque wrench (photo).

setting of 36 to 40 Ib f. ft (5 to 5.5 kg m),

50 Rotate the differential cage several times to settle the bearings and then, using feeler gauges, determine the backlash between the crownwheel and pinion. This can be a little difficult

unless long feeler gauges are being used. If a dial indicator gauge is available, this job will be far easier. Place the probe on one of the crownwheel teeth and rock the gear to and fro. The correct backlash should be between 0.004 to 0.006 inch (0.10 to 0.15

mm). 51 Using a soft metal drift, tap the adjusters in the necessary directions to move the differential cage in the required direction to give the required backlash. Should the adjusters be tight to move, slacken the differential cage cap bolts slightly. After each adjustment tighten the cap bolts to the required torque wrench setting.

housing and

then replace the oil boot baffles. It will be necessary to try the four possible positions so that the lug can be engaged in one of the ‘castellations’ of the bearing adjuster ring, also locking it in position. Add on the drive shafts and oil boot with retaining plate and packer and tighten the four bolts which secure them to the transmission casing. 59 Do not forget to refill transmission with Castro! EP 90 gear oil.

:

.

a

fe

6.49 Tighten differential cap bolts

89

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

FIG.6/4 EXPLODED

VIEW OF DIFFERENTIAL

7

Input shaft and pinion

2

Crown wheel

5

Differential casing end cover

3

Differential casing

6

(output) Thrust washers fitted on

4

Differential side gears

side gears

7 8

Taper roller bearing Bearing and crownwheel position adjusting ring Baffle plate which locks ad-

9

justing ring 10 Differential drive gears and shaft

“0G FIG.6/5 EXPLODED 7

1st and 2nd gear selector fork

7

Selector mechanism

1

If after

mechanism,

careful

2

VIEW OF GEAR SELECTOR

3rdand 4th gear selector fork

5

Reverse gear selector dog

shaft is being driven in, it is rotated through 90°.

inspection

of

the

selector

housing

and

it is considered necessary to repair or replace certain

parts, the job should really be given to your local SIMCA agent 2 The selector mechanism should not be touched at all if the setting jig is not available. Assuming that you have the setting jig proceed to dismantle and reassemble as follows.

Put the first/second

MECHANISM

Input shaft dog Input shaft

and fork. The ball and spring will escape more easily if, when the

who should have the special Jig No. 39965N.

3

3 4

gear selector

fork

in the second gear

position and remove the mounting bolts, then drive in the selector shaft, shaft housing blanking plug and ball and spring. 4 Put the third/fourth selector fork in neutral, and remove the securing bolt. Drive in the shaft, and recover the ball and spring,

5

Next remove the gear selector lever bolt and then the selector

shaft. 6

The Mecanindus pin may now be driven from the reverse gear

peg, allowing the peg, shaft and ball and spring to be removed. 7 Reassembly follows the reverse sequence to dismantling. 8 Adjustment of selector fork position proceeds as follows: 9 Place the selector housing in a clamp. 10 Loosen the bolts fixing the forks to the selector shafts and position the forks against the setting tool discs (tool No. 39965N). 11 Once the forks are in position tighten the securing bolts, and remove the setting tool.

90

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

8

Gear shift mechanism - removal and replacement

1 Remove the front right hand seat from the car and lift away the rubber matting from the floor tunnel. 2 Undo and remove the gear change lever support screws. 3 Using a pair of thin pliers withdraw the split pin from the gear change lever pivot pin. 4 Jack up the rear of the car and support on firmly based stands. Remove the gear selector rod screws. 5 Remove the handbrake cable stretcher by releasing the locknut and unscrewing the adjustment nut. 6 Lift up the handbrake lever support assembly and remove the selector lever rod as shown in Fig.6/6. 7 Inspect any moving parts for wear. If evident new parts should be fitted.

FIG.6/6 EXPLODED VIEW OF GEAR LEVER ASSEMBLY 1 2 3

Gear lever ball pivot Automatic gear lever switch Automatic lever earthing

4 5

Automatic lever feed lead Gear lever fork which locates

lead

6

selector operating rod Gear lever boot

8

Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

9

Speedometer cable

This is attached to the front of the gearbox below an access cover to be found underneath the rear seat. The cable end is retained by a bolt which must be wholely removed before the terminal can be detached. The cable is routed along the underneath of the car in the same channel as the gear shaft, clutch and brake systems run. It finally passes through the floor at the front into the car below the dashboard. The cable then screws into the back of the speedometer. The cable rarely needs attention, but it sometimes may need removing if the centre rotating rod is dry of lubricant, when it will make a squeaking noise dependent on the speed of the car. The remedy is to liberally coat the inner cable with thick oil Or grease before refitting into the outer cable and reassembly onto the car.

10 Fault finding chart Symptom WEAK

OR

INEFFECTIVE

General wear

JUMPS OUT OF GEAR General wear or damage

Reason/s

Remedy

Synchronising cones worn, split or damaged Baulk ring synchromesh dogs worn, or damaged

Dismantle and overhaul transmission unit Fit new gear wheels and synchronising cones. Dismantle and overhaul transmission unit. Fit new baulk ring synchromesh.

Broken gearchange fork rod spring Transmission unit coupling dogs badly worn

Dismantle and replace spring. Dismantle transmission unit. Fit new coup-

SYNCHROMESH

Selector fork rod groove badly worn Selector fork rod securing screw and locknut loose

EXCESSIVE NOISE Lack of maintenance

General wear

ling dogs. Fit new selector fork rod. Tighten securing screw and locknut:

Incorrect grade of oil in transmission unit or

Drain, refill, or top up transmission unit with

oil level too low

correct grade of oil. Dismantle and overhaul transmission unit. Renew bearings.

Bush or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gear teeth excessively worn or damaged

Dismantle,

new Laygear thrust washers worn allowing excessive end play

EXCESSIVE DIFFICULTY IN ENGAGING GEAR Clutch not fully disengaging Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect

overhaul

transmission

unit.

Re-

gearwheels.

Dismantle and overhaul transmission unit, Renew thrust washers.

Adjust clutch pedal correctly.

x

91

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 11 General description The main components of the automatic transmission are the Ferodo Hydrokinetic torque converter, which incorporates an oil filled clutch, and a standard gearbox enclosing three forward

gears and one reverse gear. The torque converter is housed in an enlarged bellhousing between the engine and gearbox, and its appearance is that of a large cylindrical container with a ring gear for the starter motor attached to the face nearest the engine. The container encloses the clutch and torque converter system of vanes, and is filled with oil kept under pressure by the pump on a sleeve over the converter-to-gearbox shaft. Under no circumstances should you attempt to repair or work on the converter clutch assembly. If it is established that one or the other is faulty then the converter should be exchanged for a factory replacement assembly. The replacement is supplied ready to fit into the transmission and is full of oil. The automatic transmission functions as follows:The engine delivers power to the torque converter which balances the speed and torque from the engine to the speed and torque ‘required’ by the gearbox. The converter has the characteristic that if the input speed from the engine is greater than the output speed to the gearbox, the output torque will be between 1 and 2 times greater than the input torque depending on the difference of input and output speeds. This torque characteristic is derived from the way the drive/impeller vanes in the converter are coupled to the

turbine/output vanes. The impeller vanes are shaped so that as they rotate, the oil is flung radially outwards to the top tip of the vanes and forwards in the direction of the vanes’ rotation. The oil on leaving the impeller impinges onto the output turbine which is driven by the oil in the direction of rotation of the impeller. If the impellor is rotating faster than the turbine typically when the engine is working to accelerate the car - the oil

flung

1st gear selecting fork 2nd and 3rd gear selecting

3

fork Mechanism input shaft dog

the

turbine

by the impeller

creates

a greater

flow of oil from the turbine back to the impeller and improves the overall efficiency of the converter. The power output from the converter is transmitted to the

gearbox via a clutch. This clutch which is enclosed in the same container as the torque converter system of vanes, is immersed in

the same oi!, and is actuated by an oil pressure system governed by the solenoid valve on top of the bellhousing. The purpose of the clutch is to interrupt power transmission from the torque converter to the gearbox whilst a change in gear is being executed. Essential to that function is one switch which is mounted on the base of the gear lever. The switch registers whether the gears are being changed, about to be changed, or have been changed, and operates the clutch accordingly. The gearbox is conventional and the gear shift mechanism is connected to the gear lever as with manual transmissions. Indeed the SIMCA 1000 automatic really is very much a D.I.Y. automatic, or semi-automatic,

because the driver must still select an

appropriate gear for the particular road conditions at the time. The torque converter and automatic clutch only add a degree of flexibility to each gear selected, and do not take the need for thought regarding choice of gear from the driver.

FIG.6/7 EXPLODED VIEW OF AUTOMATIC GEARBOX 7 2

onto

torque on the turbine than that exerted by the engine on the impeller. The stator in the converter serves to correct the direction of

4 §

GEAR SELECTING MECHANISM

Reverse gear selecting lever Starter inhibitor switch -

6

neutral on Mechanism input shaft

92

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

4 ]

FIG.6/8 EXPLODED VIEW OF AUTOMATIC

Differential drive pinion Double racer bearing Spacer ABN 1st gear sliding sleeve and

5 6

porsche hub 1st gear assembly 2nd gear assembly

7

2ndand 3rd gear selecting

12 Automatic transmission unit - removal and replacement 1 The removal and replacement procedures follow the lines for the manual transmission system except for the following. There are several extra connections to the automatic transmission. Firstly the engine starter inhibitor switch on the gear selector cover on the side of the gearbox has a lead which must be removed, the speedometer driver and gear shift mechanism connections on the front of the gearbox must be removed as in the manual gearbox removal.

2

The

torque

convertor

oil replenishing

pipe

from

the

GEARBOX

OUTPUT SHAFT

8

sliding sleeve and hub 3rd gear assembly

9

Brake band components

10 Single row bearing 711 Speedometer drive components

converter casing joint should be renewed. 8 Lastly, the idling and dashpot setting on the throttle lever on the carburettor. The idling speed of the engine should be 650 rpm when the engine is hot and ‘Road’ gear engaged. The working stroke at the end of the dashpot - ‘A’ on Fig. 6/9 should be 2—3 mm when the choke returns to idling speed.

oil

reservoir Must be clamped near the bellhousing union to prevent

spillage of oil and then removed from the bel!housing union. Put a clean plug in the union to prevent ingress of dirt. Next remove the electrical connections to the solenoid valve on top of the bellhousing. 3 The air grill on the underside of the bellhousing must be removed and the three bolts securing the crankshaft adaptor plate to the convertor housing removed. The engine will have to be turned manually in order to gain access to all three bolts. 4 Check that all connections to the engine and gearbox, as detailed in Section 2 of this Chapter and in previous paragraphs, are free. The engine may now be lowered from the car so that the major bolts securing the bellhousing to the engine can be removed, and the converter and gearbox assembly freed. 5

Once

clear of the car, the converter

and

gearbox

assembly

should be moved to a clean bench for dismantling. 6 Replacement of the transmission onto the car follows the reverse sequence to removal. The converter oil reservoir is topped up, the engine started with Neutral selected. The engine should be run and the reservoir replenished until there are no more bubbles emerging into the reservoir from the converter. 7 Also note that the nut retainers on the starter ring gear and

Fig.6/9 Dashpot setting.’A’ working stroke when choke in

93

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

gear change to be executed. 8 The differential assembly is identical in all features to that of the manual transmission. 9 With the differences in mind therefore, the dismantling and reassembly procedures detailed in Sections 3, 4 and 6 of this Chapter hold good for the mechanical transmission assembly on the automatic car.

13 Gearbox and differential - dismantling 1 To separate the gearbox and differential from the bellhousing and converter, the five bolts which secure the alloy bellhousing to the gearbox casing are removed. 2 As the two units are disengaged, watch for the spring on the end of the coupling shaft which remains with the converter unit. 3 It is now possible to begin dismantling the gearbox and differential. As mentioned in the description of this automatic transmission, the gearbox and differential are very much the same as the standard gearbox fitted to manual transmission cars. The differences in the gearbox arise from the provision for three forward gears instead of the usual four. 4 The input shaft is made from the same forging as the manual gearchange gearbox input shaft, and you will be able to see the blank for the first gear wheel. 5 The output/drive bevel pinion shaft similarly is the same as in manual transmission, except that a blanking ring has been fitted over the shaft between the pinions double race bearing and the first Porsche hub. The space occupied by the blanking ring is taken by the first gear wheel on manual transmission cars. 6 The other small differences between the manual and automatic transmission gearboxes, are that the automatics’ gearbox includes a brake band on the output shaft and the gear selector mechanism cover is different to accommodate the engine starter inhibitor switch. 7 The purpose of the brake band on the output shaft of the automatics’ gearbox is to ensure silent gear changes. This is achieved by arresting the rotation of the gearbox input and output shaft gear wheels whilst the gear change is being made. The band is necessary on the automatic gearbox, because the oil filled clutch in the converter casing tends to drag and drive the gearbox a little, even though it has been disengaged to allow the

wyrys

a PON 98

an

.

eg

FIG.6/10 THE TORQUE 1 2

Gear lever switch Starter inhibitor circuit Clutch operating solenoid

4 §

CONVERTOR

Stator varies

Arrows indicate oil flow

WL

FIG.6/11 THE TORQUE CONVERTOR 1 2 3

3

Impeller varies (input) Turbine varies (output)

Spool valve moved by solenoid Clutch engaged, spool valve

SYSTEM valve diverts oil flow to inside clutch

feeds oil normally to the convertor canister

6

Clutch disengaged, spoo/

7

Oil pump

94

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

14 The torque converter 1

The

torque

converter

and bellhousing is separated from the

gearbox after the five bolts joining them are removed. 2 The converter/clutch cannister may be extracted from the bellhousing, after removing the retaining dowel. The dowel is held in place by a Parker nail, which might need its head chiselled off before the plate and dowel are removed from the bellhousing.

KX »

iS SS

momeee

m

CWO

3 Once the dowel has been removed the assembly is placed on a wooden block - turbine/output shaft uppermost. The spring on the end of the output shaft is eased free and then the bellhousing carefully lifted upwards, clear of the converter cannister and output shaft. 4 The output shaft spring is removed so that oil seals in the bore, through which the output shaft runs, are not damaged

ISS 4

\D

when the bellhousing is drawn off the converter. 5 lf the fault has been isolated to the converter or clutch, then the factory exchange unit may be replaced without any further dismantling of the bellhousing systems. 6 If oil seals are faulty, typified by loss of oil into the gearbox or from the bellhousing, then the appropriate seals are now exposed. 7 The following are details of the ten checks and operations necessitated by various faults in the automatic transmission. The fault/check list Section 15 indicates which checks and operations should be made when particular faults arise.

WH FIG.6/12 DIAGRAMATIC VIEW OF CLUTCH

8

Check engine timing. See the Chapter 4 which details how

the engine timing is to be checked. 1

Clutch engaged

2

Clutch disengaged by oil flow

3

into friction disc envelope

9

Pressure actuated disc

mechanical, to the engine. Check the road wheels and apply the

Check

handbrake.

stall

Start

speed.

Connect

the engine

and

a

tachometer,

get to the normal

electric

operating

DP

iSgo*

15

FIG.6/13 TORQUE 1

Enlarged bellhousing enclosing convertor Convertor oil pump components Oil pump seal

4 5 6 7

Rilson baffler plate Convertor canister Retaining dowel! Solenoid

CONVERTOR 8 9 10 11

COMPONENTS

Spool valveandreturn spring Valve cover Secondary filter Primary filter

12 13 14 15

or

Output shaft seal Output shaft Seal retainer ; Output shaft end spring

95

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

e eee a e ji temperature. Select the ‘Road’ depress the accelerator.

gear, apply the foot brake and

Make a note of the maximum speed which is reached after running a few seconds. It is essential that this test should not last

more

than 10 seconds or the converter will overheat. The stall

speed - the maximum reached in the test - should be between 1700 and 2200 rpm. If the stall speed is between 1400 and 1700 rpm, the engine is not developing its full power - therefore check its tuning, referring to Chapters 3 and 4. If the stall speed is below 1400 rpm, then the converter must be replaced, because this is symptomatic of a faulty stator idler wheel.

Finally if the stall speed

is above

2200

rpm,

the converter

must again be replaced because this situation is typical insufficient oil supply and/or the clutch unit slipping.

of

10 Check the gear selector lever and earth cable. This check involves close examination of the cables connecting to the gear lever switch, for any cuts or breaks, and then the testing of the switch itself. Begin by disconnecting the lever switch feed wire and placing a 12 volt bult between it and the positive feed cable from a battery. The other terminal on the battery is connected to the earth lead from the lever. When the gear lever is touched the light should come on, it should go off when the lever is released. If the light remains on after the gear lever is released, then the lever switch should be replaced or repaired, since that is indicative of a short within the switch, or metal deposits in the switch housing. The lever may be removed with a 23 mm

spanner. Finally if the light does not come on at all, then a wire must be adrift in the switch. The remedy is either resoidering the connection or replacement of the whole switch. 11 Checking the neutral switch. This check is similar to that described in paragraph 10, it involves placing a 12 volt bulb

between the incoming lead and the contact on the switch and then moving the gear shift mechanism. The light should come on when the gear shift is in neutral and should be off for all other Positions of the gear shift. If the switch does not operate as described - replace it. 12 Checking the electrical and mechanical operation of the solenoid and valve spool: First the electrical check. Disconnect the solenoid leads from the leads from the gear lever switch and reconnect them in series with a 12 v, 15 watt bulb anda 12 v battery. If the solenoid is still electrically satisfactory, the bulb should light up at half power - dim yellow light. If the light does not come on, then there must be an electrical fault in the unit, and the remedy is replacement of the solenoid. 13 If the electrical operation has proved satisfactory and yet the clutch still does not work properly, then a check of the mechanical operation of the valve must be made. The procedure for this test is as follows: First clamp the converter oil supply pipe to prevent oil spillage when it is then removed from the bellhousing union. Put a clean plug (rubber bung) in the inlet union to prevent ingress of dirt. Drain some oil from a screw plug, which is situated near the bottom right hand corner of the solenoid on the bellhousing. This oil should not be re-used, Then undo the three bolts which secure the solenoid to the bellhousing and lift the unit clear. Recover the ‘O’ ring seal. Check that the solenoid plunger moves freely with a stroke of 7 mm. Reconnect the solenoid to the 12 v battery used in the

electrical check and watch for the plunger moving out from the body of the solenoid. Disconnect from the battery and re-check that the plunger can easily be pushed back into the solenoid. Finally check the movement of the valve spool in the valve body. The spool should move smoothly to and fro in the valve. Remember there is a spring opposing movement into the valve. If the spool movement is rough, then remove and clean, or replace the spool if it is scored or chipped. When cleaning, do not smooth out the edges of the spool ‘lands’, the edges are essential to the valves’ operation. 14 Note that if the spool valve is to be replaced, three diameters have been used since the automatic was first introduced. It is advisable to take the one to be replaced to your dealer, so that you can be certain of being supplied with the correct spare. There is a system of identification which is tabulated below:

Type Type

TypeC

A B

12mmdia. spool. 12.2mmdia.spool.

Part No.28195J. Part No.28501V.

12.5mmdiaspool.

Part No.29197M

No mark. 1 groove at piston end of spool. 2 grooves at piston end of spool.

The spools are not interchangeable to different valve types, and a mark the same as that on the spool can be found on the bellhousing at the lower end of the gearbox side. In the case of a Type A spool, the bellhousing is marked ‘O’. Reassembly of the solenoid and valve is the reverse sequence

to dismantling.

Ensure

that the solenoid

‘O’ ring seal is not

frayed or worn, and that before refitting the valve spool, the valve body is drained of oil by operating the starter - the coil being disconnected to prevent the engine from firing. Finally, if after all these efforts the clutch does not work satisfactorily, then the converter/clutch unit must be replaced. 15 Test the starter relay. This test involves removing the lead to the starter and connecting a 12 volt bulb and a lead to the car body - earth. When the ignition switch is turbed to ‘start’, the

bulb

should

light

up.

If the

bulb

reconnection of the starter motor the the fault lies in the starter motor. If the operation of the ignition switch leads to and from the various switches 16 Checking

need

oil seals: There

checking.

First

the

does

light

up

but

on

motor still does not work the bulb fails to light, then and the continuity of the should be checked.

are three seals in particular which

seal

between

the

valve

cover

and

bellhousing; if this seal is faulty, then traces of oil will be seen near the fins on and around the cover. Second the oil seal on the

converter output shaft; this fault is characterised by a higher oil level in the gearbox and differential. The third oil seal is that associated with the converter oil pump, and this fault is characterised by loss of oil through the bellhousing air grill. To rectify any of the mentioned oil seal faults the transmission assembly must be out of the car and the converter and bellhousing separated from the gearbox. Only the third oil seal fault necessitates the removal of the converter/clutch cannister from the bellhousing. 17 To replace the seal under the valve cover Clean the exterior of the bellhousing, place the bellhousing the right way up on a bench and undo the bolts securing the valve cover. Lift off the cover together with the gasket. The main filter and its rubber gasket can be removed and inspected. The secondary filter in the solenoid valve body can be extracted and inspected. Now the joint surfaces of the cover and bellhousing should be carefully cleaned, and extract the relief valve and spring from the valve cover. Inspect for wear and re-install. The components should now be ready for reassembly. Replace the main and secondary filters, fit the new gasket which should have been thoroughly soaked in oil. Use a thin blade of a feeler gauge to cover the oil discharge hole in the valve body whilst the cover is lowered onto the valve assembly. The cover may be centred on the body by screwing in two or three bolts to guide the cover. The cover must be handled carefully so as not to lose the relief valve and spring in the cover. When in place screw in the remaining six or seven bolts and tighten fingér tight. Finally extract the feeler gauge blade and tighten the bolts. 18 To replace the seal on the converter output shaft The bellhousing and converter is placed on a bench. Output shaft uppermost, and remove the plate retainer. Extract the turbine output shaft and then lever out the lipped gasket using a screwdriver. Offer up the new seal to the housing and gently tap in place.

It is good practice to well oil the seal before fitting. There is a special SIMCA

tool No.29765V

for fitting the output shaft seal,

Fit a new retainer and screw in the two bolts tightening to 10 Ib f. ft (1.5 mda N). Bend the retainer ends to lock the bolts. Reassemble the transmission in the reverse sequence to the dismantling task.

96 a

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

19 To replace the oil pump gasket Remove the converter cannister as described earlier in this Section from the bellhousing so that the oil pump is exposed. Carefully clean the pump surroundings and lever out the faulty seal. Fit new seal which has been soaked in the Shell Donax T6 oil taking particular care not to damage the lip of the seal. The seal should not sit down on the bottom of its housing, but should be flush with the pump housing. SIMCA provide special tools for extraction and fitting of the pump seal. It would be advantageous to use them. 20787X Seal

Extractor and 20786W seal and baffler plate fitting tool. The reassembly of the converter cannister onto the bellhousing and the reassembly of the transmission follows as detailed earlier in this Section. 20 These checks relate to excessive noise somewhere from the converter, particular noise patterns and remedies are listed below:a) If a loud squeaking noise is coming from the converter, it

may be the baffler plate on the converter pump housing. Remove. Lubricate with engine oil and replace. b) If a very high shrill whistling is heard when the engine is idling, particularly when hot, this is characteristic of a faulty relief valve in the solenoid valve cover, on top of the bellhousing. The remedy is replacement of the cover; the procedure is as detailed in paragraph 16 of this Section.

c) If metallic noises with intense vibration at all speeds are heard then it will be necessary to replace the converter cannister. d) If a noise similar to excessive rocker/valve gaps is heard, or whistling at between 2500 and 3000 rpm which decreases when idling, this is typical of a converter oil pump fault. The remedy is detailed next.

21 Do not begin work on the oil pump installation housing unless you have the following special tools: SIMCA 20787X Pump seal extractor

SIMCA 20788G SIMCA 20786W 20790E

Facom RT6

pump follows the reverse sequence to removal. Once you are satisfied with the centering of the pump, refit a

new oil seal, and Rilsan Baffler plate with tool 20786W. Finally replace the converter cannister, assemble the transmission and refit to the car as described in this Chapter. 15 Automatic transmission fault finding

The list describes the various faults that can occur with the automatic transmission and indicates the checks and examinations which are appropriate. The checks are listed in the order in which they should be carried out when a particular fault occurs, and are described in detail in Section 14. Fault Abnormal performance of car, for example engine stalls when in gear and

1st check: Engine timing see paragraph 8. 2nd check: Engine stall speed as

car stationary.

detailed paragraph 9.

No drive from transmission.

paragraph

1st check gear lever switch detail

Noisy and difficult gear changes.

Pump rotation checking sleeve Pump seal and Rilsan baffler plate fixing

100] SIMCA

in the bell-

Check that the pump rotates freely by inserting the ‘rotation checking sleeve’ (20788G). Rotate several times in the direction of the arrow on the pump cover and if stiffness is found repeat the centering operation. However, if stiffness persists replace the pump, by removing the five bolts and lifting the cover, ‘O’ ring oil seal and pump pieces from the bellhousing. Refitting the

ae

Starter does not operate.

Pump centering tool

6 mm Allen insert

On the proviso that you have the required special tools the procedure for the overhaul of the converter oil pump is as follows:The belihousing with the converter cannister removed is placed on a bench with the pump on the inside in view. Thoroughly clean the surroundings of the pump. Remove the Rilsan baffler plate fitted to the pump body by hand and extract the pump seal. Loosen the five bolts which secure the pump body to the bellhousing. The noise described in paragraph 20 which has led you to examine the converter oil pump may be rectified by re-centering the pump. Therefore having loosened the five bolts,

Continually low oil level in reservoir.

position the centering tool (20790E) onto the sleeve and slide it down, without

real effort

in the order shown

into the pump.

Tighten

the five bolts

in Fig. 6.13 to a torque of 10 Ib f. ft (1.5

mda N), and then remove the centering tool.

Noises from converter. Abnormal overheating of converter even at 50 mph in ‘Road’ gear.

10.

2nd check operation of neutral switch on gearbox see paragraph ‘gle 3rd check operation of spool valve. Detail paragraph 13. 1st check gear lever switch. Detail Paragraph 10. 2nd check operation of solenoid and then movement of spool valve. Detail paragraphs 12 and 13. ist check operation of neutral switch on the gearbox. Detail paragraph 11. 2nd check starter relay. Paragraph They, 1st. Inspect for traces of oil around the valve fins on top of the bellhousing. 2nd. Inspect the air grill on the bellhousing for oil. 3rd. Check the level of oil in the gearbox; if high it means oil loss from the converter into the differential and gearbox. See paragraphs 16 to 19, Section 14. Carry out diagnosis as detailed in paragraphs 20 and 21, Section 14. Replace the converter as described in Section 14.

16 Gear shaft mechanism 1 As already described, this automatic transmission incorporates a conventional gearbox fitted with a standard manual type gear shift mechanism.

2

There

is no

reassembly

STARTER MOTOR INTERFACE

difference

in the dismantling

and

for the automatic or manual transmission

systems. 3 The automatic transmission gear lever has a switch at its base, an output lead and an earth lead. The gear selector mechanism cover on the side of the gearbox is fitted with a neutral switch. Section 14 details the checks that can be made on the two

switches Fig.6/14 Tightening order for convertor pump cover bolts

significant

procedures

and Section

gear lever assembly.

8 covers the removal and refitting of the

Chapter 6/Gearbox and automatic transmission

ty

a

17 Modifications to the manual and automatic transmissions

1

There has been a different assembly of the gear lever to the gear

shift operating rod than that described in Section 8 and 16. The provisional assembly comprised a bolt instead of the clevis pin and an enlarged top hat shaped special washer instead of the two shallower ones usually fitted. 2 As from around January 1970 a new converter oil reservoir has been fitted similar to that found on the SIMCA 1100. The

old and new reservoirs are interchangeable. 3 As from the 1968 SIMCA 1000 the automatic

transmissions

is no

longer

starter

welded

ring gear to

the

on

torque

converter cannister but is attached to the crankshaft-to-converter joint plate. 4 From 1968 again, on the automatic transmission the retaining dowel which holds the converter cannister in the

bellhousing

has been

dispensed

housing and

converter

therefore on these later models, care must

with. When

handling

the bell-

be taken to ensure that the converter does not slide out, unintentionally and damage the oil seals in the bellhousing assembly.

5

As

from

gearbox

558

- 544

(Automatic)

and

5742

456

(Manual) the following changes have been made:-

a) The outer diameter of the synchronising rings have been increased from 65 to 70 mm. b) The outer diameter of the meshing on the synchronisation ring gear has increased from 72 to 76.2 mm. c) The drive pinion double race ball bearing thickness has been increased from 27 mm to 29 mm.

d) The drive shaft ball bearing inner race bore has been reduced to 22 mm from 25 mm. 6 Arising from the modifications listed in paragraph 5, the gearbox casing was itself changed to accommodate the new internal components. The new gearboxes number from 5712 -

047. 7 The new gearbox derived from changes listed in paragraphs 5 and 6 are only interchangeable with old ones as complete assemblies. However, there are a few components common to both and therefore if overhauling a gearbox be sure to give the spares dealer the serial number of the gearbox so that the appropriate new components are supplied.

8

As from gearbox numbers:

5806 984

for 349 engines

5776 001 for 315 engines 560 201 for automatics the dimensions of the teeth and of the notch for the Porsche hub on the synchronising sliding gears have changed. Old parts and new interchangeable only as assemblies of two gears, the sliding gear and the Porsche hub. 9 As from bodyshell No. RO7-0701 the connecting rod between the gearbox and the gear lever controlled rod has been modified by increasing the end holes to accept larger bushes and bolts. Special bush journals have been made (24078T) to allow the new connecting rod to be joined with the old bolt standard. 10 The speedometer drive gear spiral was reversed from transaxle No. 5 528 260 onwards so that the meshing drives the nylon wheel towards the gearbox end cover. A steel thrust washer is fitted behind the nylon gear between it and the cover. The new speedometer drive gears are interchangeable only as a pair with old assemblies. The new steel thrust washer should be fitted with the new nylon gear.

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Chapter 7 Drive shafts, hubs, wheels and tyres Contents

General description Drive shaft - removal and refitting transmission in car Drive shaft - removal and refitting transmission out of car ... Drive shaft - inspection and overhaul ... Rear wheel hub assembly - removal, disraantiing andl ratitting

PWN

bearing adjustment Front wheel hub assembly - removal dismantling and refitting bearing adjustment Wheels Tyres

Specifications Drive shaft: Half shaft has stip joint at differential and connects to a flexible joint at the wheel axle end. Maximum clearance between-slip joint blocks and differential 0.008 in (0.20 mm) side gear

Wheels Pressed steel disc, 4 stud fixing: 4x 12 inch 4B x 12 inch SJ tS inch

Tyres Owing to length of the SIMCA

up to 1968 after 1968 1000 Rallye 1000 Special

1000 production run many tyre fitments have been specified, both cross-ply and radial ply. 4 1 bs : be Radial ply - steel or rayon based.

Current specification (suitable for all older models):

Tyre pressures (normal conditions) All models, all tyres

Front

Rear

16 Ib/in2 (1.1 kg/cm2)

26 Ib/in2 (1.8 kg/cm2)

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS Wheel bolts : Rear hub/suspension aarm bolts

Ib f. ft 45 to 50 34 34 15 15 7 to 14 oz ft

m daN

Drive flange to flexible coupling Drive shaft oil boot retaining plate bolts

ee ..

Brake disc/drum to hub Rear wheel bearing reload 1

4.7 to 5.7 4.7 2 2 0.06 - 0.12

General description J

Drive is transmitted from the differential to the rear wheels by means of two drive shafts. The drive shafts are connected to the differential through slip joints which are able to slide and swing along an internal spline in the differential side gears. The drive shafts are connected at the opposite end to the axle shafts by a flexible joint, this being secured by a splined sleeve.

2

Drive shaft - removal and refitting (transmission in car)

1 Jack up the rear of the car and support the body on firmly based axle stands. Remove road wheels. 2 Bend back the locking tabs on the bolts which secure the shaft drive flange to the cylindrical flexible joint on the end of

FIG.7/1 1

MAIN

COMPONENTS OF SLIP JOINT SHAFT

Differential side gear

2

ON

DRIVE

Drive shaft slip blocks

5

6 7 8

100

Chapter 7/Drive shafts

the rear wheel stub axle. Undo and remove the bolts. (photo).

3

Turning to the differential end of the shafts remove the four

3

Drive shaft - removal and refitting (transmission out of car)

bolts which secure the boot retaining plate on the transmission casing. Carefully remove the retaining plate and slide it with the

1

With the transmission away from the car and on the bench or

boot

floor, undo and remove the four bolts securing the bolt retaining

away

from

the

differential

‘casing along the drive shaft.

Recover the gasket between the boot and differential casing. 4 It should now be possible to lift the drive shaft clear by easing the shaft drive flange off the flexible joint onthe wheel stub axle and then extracting the shaft together with the slip joint blocks. (photo). 5 On early models the drive shaft is not fitted with a universal joint at the wheel axle end. The shaft is splined directly into the drive flange. A rubber block on the end of the shaft in the flange controls its position in the flange and differential. 6 The refitting of the drive shaft is the reverse sequence to removal. The following points however should be noted:a) Always use new gaskets. b) Tighten boot retaining plate bolts to 15 Ib f. ft. c)

If the shaft

does

not

have a universal

joint - remember

rubber block on the end in the drive flange. d) Well lubricate the splined joints with Castrol LM Grease. e) Top up gearbox oil level as necessary.

the

plate on the differential casing. 2 Lift away drive shafts complete

with boot, retaining plate and gasket. 3 Refitting is the reverse sequence, remembering to use new gaskets fitted on cleaned joint surfaces. Tighten retaining plate

bolts to 15 Ibs f. ft.

4

Drive shaft - inspection and overhaul

1 Remove the circlip which secures the drive flange of universal joint onto the splines on the drive shaft end. 2 Slide the drive flange or universal joint off the shaft. 3 Slide the oil boot, gaskets and retaining plate along and off the shaft.

4

Using the fingers ease the oil seal and carrier from the boot.

5 If the oil has been seeping from the oil seal it will be necessary to renew it. Place the carrier in the vice and hold it lightly. Using a screwdriver lever out the old seal, noting which way round it was fitted. 6 Place a new seal into the carrier - lip inwards - using finger pressure only, 7 Wash the shaft in paraffin and wipe dry with a non fluffy rag.

8

Inspect

the

splines

on

the drive

shaft

and

drive

flange/

universal joint for signs of wear. If wear evident, new parts must be refitted.

9

Check

the rubber oil boot for signs of cracking, splitting or

hardening. Obtain a new boot if the condition is suspect. 10 Check the contact surfaces of the slip joint and differential

side gears. The maximum amount of clearance between the two parts must not exceed 0.008 in (0.20 mm) and can be measured with a long thin feeler gauge. If the clearance is excessive then either new differential side gears or slip joint blocks refitted. 11 On shafts incorporating a universal joint, the joint inspected for wear. Check that the movement of the smooth; if there is any uneven resistance to movement joint must be renewed.

must

be

must be yokes is then the

2.2 Remove bolts that secure drive flange to flexible joint

5 Rear wheel hub assembly and bearing adjustment

2.4 The view of the spline in the differential side gear undo which the slip joint fits

1 Loosen the wheel retaining bolts, jack up the rear of the car, unscrew wheel bolts and remove wheels. 2 Remove the four bolts holding the drive shaft flange to the flexible joint, ease the half shafts clear of the wheel hub assembly. 3 Use an octopus strap to prevent the half shafts falling out of the differential into the oil boots at that end of the shaft. 4 Lock the wheel axle by applying the hand brake and undo the flexible joint retaining nut. Draw the flexible joint off the splines on the wheel axle. 5 Release the handbrake and remove the brake drum. the hub casing. 7 The hub to suspension arm joint can be one of three designs:a) The hub may be retained to a steel plate welded to the suspension arm, by four bolts: b) The hub may be retained to a steel plate welded to the suspension arm by four studs which are located in the steel plate. c) The hub may lastly be retained by four bolts passing right through the steel plate and suspension arm. 8 Whichever type of joint it is, remove the bolts and or nuts and draw the hub out of the suspension arm, then slip the four bolts back on the suspension arm if necessary, to locate the brake back plate whilst you are working on the hub. 9 Lever out the two seals from the hub, and remove the second

oe

bearing.

- removal, dismantling, refitting -

101

FIG.7/2 EARLY 1 2 3

Drive shaft Oil boot and oil seal

4 5

Baffle plate Sealing gasket

Boot retaining plate

6

Drive flange

VERSION

OF DRIVE SHAFT

7

Circlip

8 9

Rubber block Flexible joint

10 Rear wheel axle 11 Retaining nut

14

(

“pd --7 Ss \

x & i

\ 4 2i if

)

4

FIG.7/3 LATER Drive shaft Oil boot and oil seal Boot retaining plate RON Baffle plate

Sealing gasket Drive flange Circlip Rubber block BANDA

VERSION 9 70 71 12

OF DRIVE SHAFT Flexible joint Rear wheel axle Retaining nut Universal joint

13 Spacer 14 Locking tab

102

Chapter 7/Drive shafts

10 Extract the outer races of both bearings with SIMCA tool No. 39970X or suitable drift. 11 Finally remove the collapsible spacer and first bearing inner race from the wheel axle. 12 Clean all parts, inspect bearings, splines and seal lands for wear. Check the condition of the flexible joint rubber, though it should be satisfactory. 13 Having dismantled the hub and inspected all the parts, reassembly follows basically the reverse sequence to dismantling.

The following points however should be observed. 14 Insert the two bearing outer races into the hub with SIMCA Too! 39949W or a tubular drift with an outer diameter just less

than that of the bearing. 15 Fit the first inner race onto the axle with Tool No 39950T or a tubular drift with bore just greater than the bore of the inner race. 16 Refit the hub back onto the suspension arm, onto the brake back

plate and

torque. 17 Position

tighten

the bolts and or nuts

to the necessary

the first bearing and seal into the outer face of the

hub, 18 Insert the wheel axle and assemble onto it a new collapsible spacer, the second bearing, the retainer/seal land, the seal and finally the flexible joint from the inner side.

19 Use a Simmonds nut (22358E) to secure the bearings and joint on the axle shaft. Tighten the nut slightly and lock with ‘Loctite’ cement or crimp the nut edge as necessary. 20 Before re-coupling the drive shafts check the spacer preload.

Place a light arin (wooden rod) on the hub flange, and position a weight pan 1 foot from the centre of the wheel axle. A weight of between 7 and 14 oz in the weight pan should just move the axle. Tighten the axle nut a few degrees at a time until the preload

torque

on

the

axle

bearings

is between

0.4 to 0.8

Ib f. ft

(0.060 and 0.120 mda N) as required.

6 Front wheel hubs - removal, dismantling and refitting bearing adjustment 1 The hub is a conventional design with two taper roller bearings, the preload of which is determined by the main nut on the stub axle. The nut is locked by a split pin (up to chassis No

E19-0321) or by crimping the edge of the nut on later vehicles. The removal procedure is as follows: 2 Slacken the wheel bolts and jack up the front of the car. Remove wheel bolts and then the wheel itself. 3 Knock off the metal cap on the hub, remove the split pin from the axle if necessary. 4 Slacken and unscrew the main nut on the axle, and then with a sharp tug, pull the hub and brake disc/drum off the stub axle. 5 Remove the tag washer and smaller bearing from the hub, then extract the grease seal and larger bearing. 6 Drive out the outer races using Too! No 39970X, or use a suitable soft metal drift. 7 Reassembly and refitting the hub follows the reverse sequence to dismantling but note the following points; 8 The new outer races are inserted in the hub with Tool No 39950T inner bearing, 39949W for the outer bearing. Tubular drifts may be used if the special tools are not available. 9 When the hub has been mounted on the axle and the main nut lightly screwed on to retain the hub; the following bearing adjustment is made. 10 To check the bearing preload on the front hub, the wheel must be fitted and the wheel bolts tightened. 11 Ensure that the front brakes do not bind and that the wheel spins freely. 12 Continue turning the wheel and begin tightening the axle nut until slight friction in the hub becomes noticeable. 13 Slacken the nut by about 1/16th turn. Insert the split pin through a hole in the axle and the castellations in the nut, or crimp the edge of the later pattern nut into the axle groove to lock the nut. 14 Check that the wheel can turn freely with just a ‘suggestion’ of free play on the wheel periphery.

7

Wheels

Because

of

the

design

of

the

suspension

of

the

car the

strength and trueness of the road wheels is critical, particularly at the front. A great deal of excessive wear on the wheel bearings and drive shaft joints can be attributed to buckled and deformed wheels. Check every 3000 miles or whenever there is a sudden

difference

in the feel at the steering wheel, that the wheels are

not buckled or dented. Check also that the wheels are balanced, statically and dynamically; most garages and tyre exchanges have balancing equipment. If any deformity is noticed the wheel should be replaced by a new one. Do not attempt to repair wheel

rims.

8

FIG.7/4 SECTION OF REAR WHEEL 7 2 3 4 5

Axle shaft First seal First bearing Collapsible spacer Second bearing

6 7 8 9

Tyres

HUB

Second seal Spacer - seal land Flexible joint Retaining nut

In the same way that the condition and suitability of the wheels fitted is critical so it is with the tyres. Because of the design of the suspension it is advisable to fit radial ply tyres on this car, and inner tubes. It is good practice to regularly - daily - inspect the tyres on your car because some tyre faults can become dangerous very quickly. When wall blisters are found, or cuts or foreign objects deep in the tyre, remove the wheel at once and take it to a garage so that the tyre can be inspected and repaired.

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FIG.7/5 A, A

B AND C. THREE DIFFERENT HUB TO SUSPENSION ARM JOINT

The hub is retained by four bolts screwing into a steel plate welded to the suspension arm

B

The hub is retained by nuts and bolts to the suspension arm and steel plate

C

The hub is retained by through bolts to the suspension arm and stee! plate

Mile, a SS 4] ao hi

FIG.7/6 THE TWO METHODS A a Split pin passes through nut and stub axle

OF LOCKING

THE MAIN NUT ON THE FRONT WHEEL STUB AXLE B

the nut edge is crimped into a slot in the stub axle

Chapter 8 Suspension and steering Contents

General notes

aS

General description- front suspension and steering 4 Anti roll bar and bushes - removal and replacanienens Front shock absorbers - removal and replacement King pin ball joints - removal and replacement Upper suspension arm bushes - removal and replacement Transverse leaf spring - removal and replacement

Steering - removal and replacement Gemmer steering -examination and renovation Rack and pinion steering -examination and renovation

Steering wheel and column - removal, dismantling, renovation and refitting Re 3 oF a a ae ass mee aMt Front wheel alignment ... ie one a a2 Bae Wl? General description - rear suspension ... is ey Se OS) Rear shock absorbers - removal and replacement os ee We! Rear trailing suspension arm and rear spring - removal and refitting ... ye se As, eS) Rear suspension arm - examination endl renovation a ee Modification summary ... bee ae abe Re garhealid Fault finding ees a tes tr yee EY sey, Petits = 1uaWnaisuy

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Chapter 11 Bodywork, underframe and heater Contents

General description

1

Maintenance exterior Maintenance interior Minor repairs to bodywork Major body repairs Doors tracing and silencing rattles Door catch - removal and replacement

2 3 4 5 6 Ti

Door removal and replacement Pr, Front luggage bonnet and latch - removal and replacement

8 9

Engine hood and latch removal and replacement Door interior mechanisms, window and locks

10 11

Door interior - dismantling and reassembly ... nee Door exterior fittings - removal and replacement... Windscreen glass - removal and refitting Bes ste

Rear window glass - removal and refitting... Wings, removal and replacement = Brightwork and trim - removal and replacement Dashboard - removal and replacement or Heater and motor - removal and replacement Heater - dismantling and reassembly ... are Petrol tank, removal and replacement saa

same

1

General description The SIMCA

forms a structure

1000 bodyshell

is a welded steel fabrication and

light stiff monocoque structure. The monocoque is reinforced locally at the front and rear with

suspension sub-frames. The sub-frames dissipate the direct loads from the suspension members onto the bodyshell. The engine and gearbox assembly is hung from the rear suspension sub-frame and two box section reinforced areas on the rear of the bodyshell. Jacking points on the car are provided under the door sills which again are box section to stiffen the floor structure of the bodyshell. Seat belt anchorages are also located on stiffened areas of the bodyshell: - centre door pillars, door sill channel floor structure tunnel.

and on central

As well as providing the essential strong points for seat belts,

seats

and

jacking,

the

floor

structure

also contributes

signifi-

cantly to the strength and stiffness of the bodyshell. Also it is the most weather beaten and abused part of the bodyshell and therefore it cannot be emphasised too much that it is as necessary to keep the floor structure

it is to keep corrosion free.

2

the

upper

metal

clean and free from corrosion, as

structure

and

coachwork

clean

and

Maintenance - exterior

1 The general conditon of a car’s bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy but needs to be regular and particular. Neglect - particularly after minor damage - can quickly lead to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important to keep watch on those parts of the bodywork not immediately visible, for example the underside, inside all the wheel arches and the lower part of the engine compartment. 2 The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of water

from a hose. This will remove all

the loose solids which may have stuck to the car. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The

wheel

arches and underbody

need washing in the

way,

to remove

any

accumulated

mud

waa he Se iis! . 14 te: Hes AE a, Ue ay ete! =a 19) reer A0, gr

vs eae tes one ves

2% as

which

will

retain

moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underbody and wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather the underbody is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically and this is a good time for inspection. 3 Periodically, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underside of the car steam cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam cleaning is available at some garages and is necessary for removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes collects thickly in areas near the engine and gearbox. If steam facilities are not available there are one or two excellent grease solvents available which can be brush applied. The dirt can then be simply hosed off. Any signs of rust on the underside panels and chassis members must be attended. to immediately. Thorough wire brushing followed by treatment with an anti-rust compound, primer and underbody sealer will prevent continued deterioration. If not dealt with the car could eventually become structurally unsound and therefore unsafe. 4 After washing the paintwork wipe it off with a chamois leather to give a clear unspotted finish. A coat of clear wax polish will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air and will survive several subsequent washings. If the paintwork sheen has duiled or oxidised use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little more effort but is usually because regular washing has been neglected! Always check that door and drain holes and pipes are completely clear so that water can drain out. Brightwork should be treated the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears if a little ammonia

is added to the water.

If glass work is scratched, a

good rub with a proprietary metal polish will often clean it. Never use any form of wax or other paint/chromium polish on glass.

3

Maintenance - interior

The vacuum

flooring cover (usually rubber) should be brushed or cleaned regularly to keep it free of grit. If badly stained,

158

Chapter 11/Bodywork, underframe, heater

remove it from the car for scrubbing or sponging and make quite sure that it is dry before replacement. Seat and interior trim panels can be kept clean with a wipe over with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid detergent and a soft nailbrush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the car do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the upholstery seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If the inside of the car gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly. Do NOT leave oil or electric heaters inside the car for this purpose. If, when removing mats for cleaning, there are signs of damp underneath, all the interior of the car floor should be uncovered and the point of water entry found. It may only be a missing grommet, but it could be a rusted through floor panel and this demands immediate attention as described in the previous Section. More often than not both sides of the panel will require treatment. On cars fitted with the factory sunroof avoid touching the interior canvas. Keep it clean and rectify all tears immediately. Consult your local SIMCA Agent as to the most suitable type of repair depending on the material used. Keep the stays and fixings very lightly but frequently oiled, particularly at the front of the roof, and periodically release and roll back the roof so that it does not become too stiff and weak.

4

Minor repairs to bodywork

1 A car which does not suffer some minor damage to the bodywork in its life is the exception rather than the rule. Even presuming the gate post is never scraped or the door opened against a wall or high kerb there is always the likelihood of gravel and grit being thrown up and chipping the surface, particularly at the lower edges of the doors and sills. 2 If the damage is merely a paint scrape which has not reached the metal base, delay is not critical but where bare metal is exposed action must be taken immediately before rust sets in. 3 The average owner will normally keep the following ‘first aid’ materials available which can give a professional finish for minor jobs:

FIG.11/1 THE SIMCA 1000 BODYSHELL 7 Complete 2 Bodyshell without removable panels

a) An anti-rust primer b) Cellulose stopper for minor scratch filling c) d) e) f)

Resin filler paste for filling larger areas and depths Assorted grades of wet and dry abrasive paper Primer Matched finish paint for brush or aerosol application

4

Where

the damage

is superficial

(i.e. not

down

to the bare

metal and not dented), fill the scratch or chip with sufficient filler to smooth the area, run down with paper and apply the matching paint. 5 Where the bodywork is scratched down to the metal, but not dented, clean the metal surface thoroughly and apply a suitable metal primer first - such as red lead or zinc chromate. Fill up the scratch as necessary with filler and rub down with wet and dry paper. Apply the matching colour paint. 6 If more than one coat of colour is required rub down each coat with cutting paste before applying the next. 7 \f the bodywork is dented, depending on how bad and where the dent is, think first in terms of beating it out but if it is felt that the original shape will not be retrieved, panel replacement may be viable. See the next Section. However if it is to be ‘mended’, proceed as follows: First beat out the dent to conform as near as possible to the original contour. Avoid using steel faced

hammers

- use

hard

wood

mallets

or

similar

and

always

support the panel being beaten with a hardwood or metal ‘dolly’. In areas where severe creasing and buckling has occurred it will be virtually impossible to reform the metal to the original shape. In such instances a decision should be made whether or not to cut out the damaged piece or attempt to re-contour over it with filler paste. In large areas where the metal panel is seriously damaged or rusted the repair is to be considered major and it is often better to replace a panel or sill section with the appropriate piece supplied as a space. When using filler paste in largish quantities make sure that the directions are carefully followed. It is false economy to rush the job as the correct hardening time must be allowed between stages and before finishing. With thick applications the filler usually has to be applied in layers - allowing time for each layer to harden. Sometimes the original paint colour will have faded and it will be difficult to obtain an exact colour match. In such instances it is a good scheme to select a complete panel - such as a door or boot lid - and spray the whole panel. Differences will be less apparent where there are obvious divisions between the original and resprayed areas.

159

i “lg

=< \\" i wii

i

Laie: .

ae A fn

LeRN

x

f

|

i)MH

:

M)

N

fe

SSo-=

One piece floor panel Sill strengthening channel

Ae A a

=~

1/7 o

SX

es

< Jp Ow

FIG.11/3 MEMBER WHICH 7 2

nn

Mn

‘ele

3

FORM WELDED

Transverse strengthening channels

FLOOR STRUCTURE 4 5

(BASIC BODY SHELL)

Seat mountings 6 Rear wheel arch strengthening

Rear seat back

160

Chapter 11/Bodywork, underframe, heater

an

FIG.11/4 SIDE COMPONENTS WHICH FORM WELDED 1 2

Safety belt anchorage Main door frame

3 4

Door pillar inside member Door frame strengthening

UNIT (BODY SHELL)

5

web Door hinge plate

6 7

5

Major body repairs

Door pillar exterior Sill member

1 Because the body is built on the monocoque principle, major damage must be repaired by a competent body repairer with the necessary jigs and equipment. 2 In the event of a crash that resulted in buckling of body Panels, or damage to the road wheels the car must be taken toa SIMCA Dealer or body repairer where the bodyshell and suspension alignment may be checked. 3 Bodyshell and/or suspension mis-alignment will cause excessive wear of the tyres, steering system and possibly transmission. The handling of the car also will be affected adversely.

6

Doors - tracing and silencing rattles

1

The commonest

cause of door rattles is a misaligned, loose or

worn striker plate, but other causes may be: a) Loose door handles, window winder handles

or door hinges. b) Loose, worn or misaligned door lock components. c) Loose or worn remote control mechanism. 2 It is quite possible for door rattles to be the result of a combination of these faults, so a careful examination must be made to determine the causes of the noise. 3 If the nose of the striker plate is worn and as a result the

FIG.11/6

COMPONENTS TO MAKE WELDED (BODY SHELL)

1

Wheel arch panel

2

Rear body panel

3

REAR

UNIT

Bolt on R.H.S. engine protection panel

door rattles, renew it and adjust the plate. 4 If the nose of the door wedge is badly worn and the door rattles as a result, then fit a new door latch assembly. 5 Should the hinge be badly worn then the pivot pin may be replaced; however if with a new pivot pin the hinge is still slack, then it is a workshop task to repair the hinges since the halves are welded to the shell and door, and are not by themselves available as spares from SIMCA.

Chapter 11/Bodywork, underframe, heater

7

11 Door interior, mechanisms, window and locks

Door catch - removal and replacement striker plate, mark its position plate may be fitted in the same

1 To reach the mechanisms inside the door, the trim panel must be removed. This is retained on the door structure by a selection of clips.

the three screws - one long and away together with the gasket. is straightforward and when adjusting the

2 Begin by removing the interior handles, note the positions of the handles so that they can be refitted in their original

1 If it is desired to renew a worn on the door pillar so that a new position. 2 Remove the plate by undoing two short ones - and lift the plate

3

Replacement

striker plate the door should close, without excessive effort, toa

position when the outer surface is flush with the adjacent body panels or door. The door should not rattle when the car is on the road.

8

Door removal and replacement

1 As mentioned earlier in this Chapter, the door hinges are not easily removed from the bodyshell or door. It will be necessary therefore to extract the hinge pivot pin in order to remove the door. 2 The pivot pin is removed upwards from the hinge, remember to support the weight of the door whilst the pin is being extracted. 3 The pin holding the door travel limit strap will also need removing before the door can be lifted clear of the car. 4 Replacement is straightforward, being the reversal of removal.

positions.

3 Depress the bezels and with a pair of pliers withdraw the spring clip securing the handle to the shaft. Lift away the handles. 4 Undo and remove the screws securing the arm rest to the door trim panel and door inner panel. 5 Using a wide bladed screwdriver inserted between the door inner panel and the trim panel, lever the trim panel very carefully away from the door. This action will release the trim panel retaining clips.

12 Door interior - dismantling and reassembly 1 The door interior mechanisms are accessible only after the trim and handles are removed as described in Section 11. 2 The door latch remote control mechanism is held to the door inner panel by two bolts. After undoing the bolts the mechanism can be withdrawn from the door. 3 The door latch mechanism is retained to the door frame by screws which pass through to it from the exterior latch fitting. 4

9

Front luggage bonnet and latch - removal and replacement

1 Begin removing the front bonnet by withdrawing the split pin from the travel limit rod and disconnecting the rod from the bonnet. Retrieve the washers and spacers on the rod end. 2 The bonnet should then be supported whilst the hinge pivot pins are removed after extracting the split pins which retain them in position. Recover the washer which is fitted to the pivot pin beside the split pin. 3 The bonnet half of the hinge may be removed from the

bonnet after the three retaining bolts have been unscrewed. 4

161

Only the bonnet half of the hinge which

isa bolt on item, is

The lock remote control fitting is held to the door frame by a

single spring clip. 5 Finally the window winder mechanism is secured to the door frame by three bolts and screws secure the window guides to the door structure. The glass may be removed after the winding mechanism is either removed or wound down and the removable side guide unscrewed from the door frame. 6 The front door quarter light and frame is held in place by six short bolts, two on the main window guide which forms part of the quarter light frame, two on the front side of the frame Passing through the door rim and finally two on the base of the quarter light. 7 Removal of all door mechanisms and accessories is as described, and replacement is simply the reversal of removal.

available from Simca Spares. 5 The catch hook fittings on the bonnet are retained by a single bolt and the latch assembly on the bodyshell by two bolts. 6 To remove the latch assembly the two retaining bolts must first be unscrewed from inside the car behind the dashboard. The pin connecting the latch release handle to the latch assembly must then be extracted before the latch assembly can be lifted clear. 7 The latch assembly itself cannot be dismantled and therefore if it is worn it should be renewed as a whole.

8

Replacement is the reversal of removal.

10 Engine hood - removal and replacement 1 The hood is retained by two hinges and a latch. Like the front bonnet only the hood half of the hinge is a bolt-on item and easily renewed if necessary. 2 The latch assembly, operated by a trigger which projects through the rear body panel, is secured onto that panel by two bolts. Again the latch assembly is renewed as a whole. , 3 To remove the hood, begin by disconnecting the travel limit rod from the hood and then either undo the nuts holding the hood to the hinges or extract the hinge pivot pin. The hood may then be lifted clear. 4 Removal of the latch is achieved quite simply by undoing the two retaining screws. 5 Replacement of both hood and latch follow the reverse procedure to removal.

FIG.11/7 DOOR

Quarter light assembly the quarter light was fitted to all models except the 1000LS Metal frame and window 3 Glass gu ide 4 Clip components Rubber seal

Generally 1 2

INTERIOR COMPONENTS

se

FIG.11/8

WINDOW WINDER COMPONENTS. FRONT REAR ARRANGEMENTS VERY SIMILAR

AND

FIG.11/9 DOOR INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR MECHANISMS FRONT AND REAR DOOR ARRANGEMENTS VERY SIMILAR

?

Winder mechanism

4

Glass

1

Door latch assembly

2 3

Handle Bezel

5

Guides and seals

2 3

Door catch components Door latch remote control mechanism

4

Door lock remote control

5 6

components Door latch button Exterior door handle

METAL

FIG.11/10 CAR

ROOF

INTERIOR

TRIM AND FRONT

1

Visors and rear view mirror attachments

3

Rubber ectrusion glass sur-

2

Roof trimandsound proofing

4

Metal trim strip which locks

round, front

5

TRIM

AND REAR SCREEN GLAZING

rubber ectrusion

of glass, metal trim strip

Section of screen and aper-

and bodyshell aperture

ture joint, showing position

flange in the rubber extrusion

Chapter 11/Bodywork, underframe, heater

13 Door exterior fittings - removal and replacement

163

15 Rear window

1 All of the exterior fittings are retained from within the door, therefore it will be necessary to remove the door interior trim

1 The window

and handles as described in Section 11 of this Chapter. 2 Once the trim and handles have been removed, the exterior docr handles may be freed after the two nuts which secure them

except that there is no interior mirror, wipers or heating duct.

to the door panel have been unscrewed. Retrieve the seals and washers that were fitted on the handle studs. 3 The door lock and latch button assembly is held in place by a single spring clip, which is pulled downwards to free the lock button unit. 4 On some models rear view mirrors have been attached to the door, using screws passing through the door panel into clips inside the door.

16 Wing removal and replacement

5

Refitting

of all the exterior

reversal of removal. Remember door fitting attachments.

items

on the door

follows

the

to use shake proof washers on all

If the windscreen

shatters, fitting a replacement

screen

is one

of the few jobs the average owner is advised to leave to the experienced fitter. For the owner who wishes to do the job himself the following instructions are given: 2 Remove the wiper arms from their spindles, remove the interior rear view mirror and the visors. Cover the screen heating duct apertures with sticky tape. 3 Next extract the metal trim from the outside of the screen edge rubber. This trim locks the rubber extrusion around the glass screen edge. 4 Place a blanket or suitable protection on the car bonnet to prevent scoring the paintwork with the broken

The wings are attached to the main bodyshell by eleven short

bolts

screen.

5 Move to the inside of the car and have an assistant outside the car ready to catch the screen as it is released. 6 Wearing leather gloves or similar hand protection push on the glass screen as near to the edge as possible, beginning at the top corners. The rubber extrusion should deform and allow the screen to move outwards out of the screen aperture. This of course is not applicable if the screen has shattered. 7 Remove the rubber surround from the glass or alternatively

- on

the front

rear wings. 2 To remove

wings, and fifteen screws

and bolts on the

the front wings begin by disconnecting

the wires

to the side and flasher light assembly.

3 Raise the front bonnet to gain access to four bolts which secure the top edge of the front wing to the bodyshell. 4 The three bolts which secure the front edge of the wing may be unscrewed from the inside of the wheel arch. 5 Four bolts secure the back edge of the wing and these may be undone when the front door is opened. 6 With all the retaining bolts removed the wing may be lifted clear

14 Windscreen glass - removal and refitting 1

1

procedure for removal and replacement of the rear glass is exactly the same as for the front windscreen,

of the

bodyshell.

Retrieve

the anchor

nuts

used

on

the

bodyshell flanges. 7 The rear wing is removed in a similar manner, the main differences are that six screws are used to secure the forward edge of the rear wing. Five bolts secure the top edge; three are accessible with the engine hood raised, the other two are reached from inside the engine compartment. Finally three bolts retain the back edge of the wing and these together with the last attachment bolt which passes through the filler bracket, are accessible from within the wheel arch. 8 Remember to remove the petrol filler pipe assembly from the

wing

(Section 21) before removing the wing from the car. Also

remember

and

to work

in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors

do not expose

a naked

light anywhere

near

the car if the

petrol tank or/and associated items have been dismantled.

9 Replacement of reversal of removal. Glasticon Dum Dum to inhibit corrosion in

the wings is straightforward being the It is advisable to smear a sealant such as Putty on mating surfaces before assembly the bodywork joints.

carefully pick out the remains of the glass. Use a vacuum cleaner to extract as much of the screen debris as possible. 8 Carefully inspect the rubber extrusion surround for signs of

pitting and deterioration. Offer up the new glass to the screen aperture and check that the shape and curvature of the screen conforms to that of the aperture. A screen will break quite soon again if the aperture and glass do not suit, typically if the vehicle has been involved in an accident during which the screen broke. A car bodyshell can be deformed easily in such instances to an extent when the aperture will need reshaping by a competent body repairer to ensure conformity with a new screen. 9 Position the new glass into the rubber extrusion surround, remember that the groove for the metal trim needs to be on the outer side of the screen assembly. 10 With the rubber now correctly positioned around the glass, a long piece of strong cord should be inserted in the slot in the rubber extrusion which is to accept the flange of the screen aperture in the bodyshell. The two free ends of the cord should finish at either the top or bottom centre and averlap each other. 11 The screen is now offered up to the aperture, and an assistant will be required to press the rubber surround hard against the bodyshell flange. Slowly pull one end of the cord, moving around the windscreen, thereby drawing the lip of the rubber extrusion screen surround over the flange of the screen aperture. 12 Finally ensure that the rubber surround is correctly seated

around the screen and then press in the metal trim strip which locks the screen in the rubber. Once the glass has been fitted satisfactorily the windscreen wipers, visors and interior mirror may be replaced.

2 FIG.11/11

REAR WING ATTACHMENTS

1

Rear wing panel

2

Single attachment screw and

taining screw - 2 off - with

clip

clips

3

Counter sunk head attach-

5

6

Wing panel upper edge re-

7

taining bolts - 3 off - with clip nuts Wing panel rear edge retain-

ment screw - 5off -and mating clip

4

Panel support bracket with nuts and bolts

Wing panel upper edge re-

ing boltsand nut clips3 off

164

FIG.11/12 Diagram

A TYPICAL

BUMPER

ATTACHMENT

shows components for 1969 and Simca 1000

later models of the Fig.11.13 The

metal dash-board

shell, and fixings. (L.H. drive

illustration)

FIG.11/14 1

Padding

THE

DASHBOARD

TRIM. 2

ON

MODELS

MADE AFTER ILLUSTRATION)

Instrument panel rearcover

3

1969

EXCEPT

Ash try components

FOR

THE 4

RALLYE.

(L.H.

DRIVE

Blanking plate. (radio aperture

Chapter 11/Bodywork, underframe, heater

165

deterioration is found: Remember the heater system under the same coolant pressure as the engine.

17 Brightwork - removal and replacement

is working

1 All bumpers and overriders are bolt on assemblies. Removal is straightforward, but the nuts and bolt threads will probably require penetrating oil because they are invariably rusted.

2 The front grille is attached by three studs and nuts, which are accessible when the bonnet is raised and the spare wheel removed. 3 The body trim both internally and externally is of very simple construction. Its removal is obvious in each case: If a screw is not visible then it is either a push-on or slide-on fit. Check each part - and never force anything.

18 Dashboard - removal and replacement 1

The

dashboard

is built up of three groups

of components.

First there is the main metal fabrication, second there is the trim Parts - glove box, padding and so on; and lastly there are the ‘ornaments’, these include the wooden facia, and plastic brightwork.

2 Removal of the dashboard begins with the removal of the instrument panel and all electrical connections - Chapter 10.

3

The task continues with the undoing of the screws (three on

recent

models),

which

secure the top edge of the dashboard

to

the bodyshell. Lastly there are more nuts and bolts at each end and just underneath the dashboard which complete its attachment

to the bodyshell; with those undone

lifted clear. 4 The trim and ornaments dashboard once it is clear of straightforward since they slide-on fits. 5 Finally the replacement is

the dashboard may be

may then be removed from the the car. Removal of these items is are

all

either

screw,

push-on

or

20 Heater and motor assembly - dismantling and reassembly 1 The blower motor is removed from the motor-radiator sub-assembly after unscrewing the three spigot nuts from the outside of the assembly housing. Retrieve the rubber bushes and washers on which the motor is mounted - these will be required when refitting the motor. 2 Do not attempt to dismantle the motor, it is renewed complete. Brushes and motor components are not individually available as spares. 3 The impellor may be removed from the motor spindle and cleaned. 4 The radiator is removed from the sub-assembly once the four retaining screws have been removed and the single screw securing the valve knob to the radiator regulator valve shaft is removed. 5 The regulator valve may be removed from the radiator by unscrewing the two securing bolts. Recover the sealing gasket. 6 On some models a rheostat is fitted to the left hand side of the radiator-motor assembly, and it controls the blower motor speed. The rheostat windings should be inspected for wear and indications of overheating. The rheostat is a renewable item. 7 The front flap assembly is held to the motor-radiator housing by three screws, it is extremely unlikely that it should give trouble; but it is renewable as individual assembly as well as the coil springs incorporated in it. 8 The windscreen demister control shutter is retained on the back box by a single nut, but again as with most of the heater components, it very rarely needs attention.

9

Reassembly of the motor-radiator sub-assembly is the reversal

of dismantling, and the completed unit can re-installed in the car as described in Section 19.

simply the reversal of removal.

be

quickly

19 Heater and motor - removal and replacement 1 The interior heater fitted to the SIMCA 1000 comprises two main sub-assemblies. To begin with there is the back box assembly; this is securely bolted to the sloping bulkhead behind the dashboard. It incorporates two air ducts which receive air from intakes just in front of the windscreen and introduce it to the impellor (part of the other sub-assembly) from which it is discharged upwards and out of slots at the top of the back box.

21 Fuel tank - removal and replacement

2

3 The task begins with the following actions:From inside the car; a) Remove the rear seat cushion and back rest.

The

second

sub assembly

includes

the radiator,

motor

and

impellor, air controls and outlet ducts to the car interior and windscreen interior. 3 The cold air having been discharged through the slots in the top of the back box passes upwards through the radiator. A flat shutter and flap assembly controls the flow of warmed air to the windscreen and car interior respectively. 4 Most likely either the motor or radiator will need attention and to remove both items the following procedure needs to be followed:

5

Drain

the cooling

system

(Chapter

2) and

disconnect

the

water pipes from the heater assembly. 6 Remove the right hand fuse from the fuse box and check that the heater has been isolated by switching on the ignition and blower motor switches as necessary. 7 Disconnect the electrical leads from the motor. 8 Finally take the weight of the motor and radiator sub-assembly whilst the two main spring clips either side of the motor box are levered free. The motor and radiator sub-assembly may then be lifted from the back box and out of the car. 9

Replacement

sub-assembly

Chapter

and

reconnection

of

the

motor

follows the reversal of the removal

and

radiator

procedure. See

2 for checks to be made and cooling system

refilling

procedures, and examine the rubber pipes which connect the car heater to the engine. These pipes should be replaced if any

1 On most cars, the removal of the fuel tanks is fairly straightforward; but on the SIMCA 1000 it is a very involved task - the only comfort being that removal is very seldom necessary. 2 The procedure for fuel tank removal also applies for the, removal of the cool air duct for the engine radiator.

b) Remove the parcel tray, soundproof panel.

c) Undo

the

cowling

fixing bolts which

are underneath

the

parcel tray and behind the back rest. 4 The task continues with the actions carried out from the outside of the car; a) Refer to Chapter 3 and drain the fuel tank through the plug and cowling. b Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the engine and gearbox assembly. c) Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the rear suspension sub-frame and wheels. d — Disconnect the earth cable, remove the electrical loom from the air duct. e) Remove the car heater hoses from the radiator and the clips on the air duct.

f) Remove the petrol filler neck and sleeve. (Chapter 3). g) Remove the air duct cowling attachment bolts and then lift the cowling clear of the car; the petrol tank is now visible.

h} Finally remove the bolts securing the tank to the upper and lower mounting brackets and lift the tank away. 5 Replacement of the tank after that can hardly be described “simply the reversal of removal” but it really is.

166

FIG.11/15 THE INTERIOR The back box air inlet ducts The back box, introducing air to impeller Slots through which air is discharged from the back box by the impeller The radiator

5

The regulator valve for the radiator The shuttle which controls the warmed air from the radiator to the windscreen

HEATER 8

9

ASSEMBLY

radiator to the car interior The radiator and motor housing Spigot nuts and bushes which secure the motor to the

The flaps, which control the

housing

flow of warmed air from the

10 The motor

11 The impeller 12 The rheostat which governs motor speed

13 The spring clip which secures the radiator/motor housing to the back box

Metric conversion tables Inches

Decimals

1/64 1/32 3/64 1/16 5/64 3/32 7/64 1/8 9/64 5/32 11/64 3/16 13/64 7/32 15/64 1/4 17/64 9/32 19/64 5/16 21/64 11/32 23/64 3/8 25/64 13/32 27/64 7/16 29/64 15/32 31/64 1/2 33/64 17/32 35/64 9/16 37/64 19/32 39/64 5/8 41/64 21/32 43/64 11/16 45/64 23/32 47/64 3/4 49/64 25/32 51/64 13/16 53/64 27/32 55/64 7/8 57/64 29/32 59/64 15/16 61/64 31/32 63/64

0.015625 0.03125 0.046875 0.0625 0.078125 0.09375 0.109375 0.125 0.140625 0.15625 0.171875 0.1875 0.203125 0.21875 0.234375 0.25 0.265625 0.28125 0.296875 0.3125 0.328125 0.34375 0.359375 OS7E 0.390625 0.40625 0.421875 0.4375 0.453125 0.46875 0.484375 0.5 0.515625 0.53125 0.546875 0.5625 0.578125 0.59375 0.609375 0.625 0.640625 0.65625 0.671875 0.6875 0.703125 0.71875 0.734375 0.75 0.765625 0.78125 0.796875 0.8125 0.828125 0.84375 0.859375 0.875 0.890625 0.90625 0.921875 0.9375 0.953125 0.96875 0.984375

Millimetres

0.3969 0.7937 1.1906 1.5875 1.9844 2.3812 2.7781 3.1750 S719 3.9687 4.3656 4.7625 5.1594 5.5562 5.9531 6.3500 6.7469 7.1437 7.5406 7.9375 8.3344 8.7312 9.1281 9.5250 9.9219 10.3187 10.7156 11.1125 11.5094 11.9062 12.3031 12.7000 13.0969 13.4937 13.8906 14.2875 14.6844 15.0812 15.4781 15.8750 O27 16.6687 17,0656 17.4625 17.8594 18.2562 18.6531 19.0500 19.4469 19.8437 20.2406 20.6375 21.0344 21.4312 21.8281 22.2250 22,6219 23.0187 23.4156 23.8125 24.2094 24.6062 25.0031

Millimetres to Inches Inches

0.00039 0.00079 0.00118 0.00157 0.00197 0.00236 0.00276 0.00315 0.00354 0.00394 0.00787 0.01181 0.01575 0.01969 0.02362 0.02756 0.03150 0.03543 0.03937 0.07874 0.11811 0.15748 0.19685 0.23622 0.27559 0.31496 0.35433 0.39370 0.43307 0.47244 0.51181 0.55118 0.59055 0.62992 0.66929 0.70866 0.74803 0.78740 0.82677 0.86614

Inches to Millimetres Inches mm

0.001 0.002 0.003 0.004 0.005 0.006 0.007 0.008 0.009 0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.09 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 05 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 US) 16 bz) 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25) 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

0.0254 0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.254 0.508 0.762 1.016 1.270 1.524 1.778 2.032 2.286 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 1270. 15.24 17.78 20.32 22.86 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127.0 152.4 177.8 203.2 228.6 254.0 279.4 304.8 330.2 355.6 381.0 406.4 431.8 457.2 482.6 508.0 533.4 558.8 584.2 609.6 635.0 660.4 685.8 Te? 736.6 762.0 787.4 812.8 838.2 863.6 889.0 914.4

168

Metric conversion tables

1

Imperial gallon = 8 Imp pints = 1.16 US gallons = 277.42 cu in = 4.5459 litres

1

US gallon = 4 US quarts = 0.862.Imp gallon =-231 cu in = 3.785 litres

1

Litre = 0.2199 Imp gallon = 0.2642 US gallon = 61.0253 cu in = 1000 cc

Miles to Kilometres

Kilometres to Miles

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

1 2 3 4 5 6 i 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

1.61 S22 4.83 6.44 8.05 9.66 E27 12.88 14.48 16.09 32.19 48.28 64.37 80.47 96.56 112.65 128.75 144.84 160.93

0.62 1.24 1.86 2.49 3.11 Suns 4.35 4.97 5.59 6.21 12.43 18.64 24.85 31.07 37.28 43.50 49.71 55.92 62.14

Ibf ft to Kgfm

Kg fmto Ibf ft

Ib f/in2 : Kg f/cem2

Kg f/em2 : Ib f/in2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20

0.138 0.276 0.414 0.553 0.691 0.829 0.967 1.106 1.244 1.382 2.765

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20

7.233 14.466 21.699 28.932 36.165 43.398 50.631 57.864 65.097 72.330 144.660

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20

0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 0.35 0.42 0.49 0.56 0.63 0.70 1.41

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 Tie 85.34 99.56 113.79 128.00 142.23 284.47

30

4.147

30

216.990

30

2a

30

426.70

169

Use of English

As this book has been written in the United Kingdom it uses the appropriate English component names. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally this causes no difficulty. But to make sure, a glossary is printed below.

Glossary English

American

Adjustable spanner ... Anti-roll bar ... Bonnet (engine cover)

Crescent wrench Stabiliser or sway bar Hood Trunk 1st gear Firewall Lash

Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear ... Bulkhead Clearance Crownwheel ... Catch ... és ae Camfollower or tappet Cat’s eye Circlip Drop arm Drop head coupe Dynamo

we

Ring gear (of differential) Latch Valve lifter or tappet Road reflecting lane marker Snap ring Pitman arm Convertible

Generator (DC)

ae

Earth (electrical)

Ground Station wagon Header Trouble shooting

Estate car Exhaust manifold Fault finding... Free play Free wheel Gudgeon pin ...

Lash

Coast Piston pin or wrist pin Shift Transmission Soft top

Gearchange Gearbox Hood ... Hard top Half shaft Hot spot

Hard top Axle shaft

ea

Heat riser Primary shoe Counter shaft Fender Vise grips Freeway, turnpike etc Kerosene Gas Back-up Sedan Lock (for valve spring retainer)

at

Leading shoe (of brake) Layshaft (of gearbox) Mudguard or wing Mole grips Motorway Paraffin Petrol ... Reverse Saloon

Split cotter (for valve spring cap) ... Split pin Sump ... Silencer Steering arm ... Side light Side marker light Spanner Tappet Tab washer Top gear Transmission ...

Cotter pin Oil pan Muffler Spindle arm Parking light Cat’s eye Wrench Valve lifter Tank; lock High Whole drive line from clutch to axle shaft Secondary shoe

a

Trailing shoe (of brake) Track rod (of steering)

Tie rod (or connecting rod) Windshield

Windscreen

Miscellaneous points An ‘Oil seal’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A ‘Damper’ is a ‘Shock absorber’: it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result. The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most

uncommon. Therefore the phrase ‘Primary’ or ‘Secondary’ shoe does not apply. A shoe is said is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of The word ‘Tuning’ has a narrower meaning than in America, and applies to that engine ‘Service’ or ‘Maintenance’ are used where an American would say ‘Tune-up’

to be Leading or Trailing. A ‘Leading’ shoe by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor the rotating drum. servicing to ensure full power. The words

Index nnnnnn

EEE UESEan ESSENSE

A Crankshaft removal - 26 renovation - 28 replacement - 31

Air filter - 53 Alternator - 132 Anti-freeze - 45

B Battery charging - 130 electrolyte replenishment - 130 maintenance and inspection - 130

Cylinder bores - examination and renovation - 29 Cylinder head decarbonisation - 30 removal, engine on bench - 21 removal, engine in car - 26

Big ends - examination and renovation - 28 Bleeding hydraulic system

D

brakes - 127 clutch - 75 Bodywork bonnet - 161 doors - 160 maintenance - 157 repairs - 160

Decarbonisation - 30

wings - removal and replacement - 163 Braking system bleeding hydraulics - 127 disc pad - removal - 122

Distributor adjusting points - 68

drums and shoes - 118 fault finding - 122 handbrake cable adjustment - 121 hydraulic cylinders - 126 pedal removal - 127 routine maintenance - 118 specifications - 117 stoplight switch - 127 wheel slave cylinders - 124

Cable - speedometer - 90 Camshaft refitting - 32 removal - 24 renovation - 29 Carburettors - 54 Clutch bleeding - hydraulics - 75

fault finding - 79 general description - 73 master cylinder - 75

modifications - 79 pedal adjustment - 76 removal - 19, - 76 replacement - 78 specifications - 73

Coil - ignition - 72 Cooling system anti-freeze - 45 draining - 45 fault finding - 49 filling - 45 flushing - 45 general description - 43

Differential

dismantling - 86 inspection - 86 reassembly - 88 Direction indicators - 136 Disc, brakes pad - removal - 122

dismantling and reassembly - 70 renewing points - 68 testing condenser - 68 Doors - 160 Dynamo - 130

Electrical system alternator - 132 battery - 130 direction indicators - 136 fault finding - 143 fuses - 135 headlamps - 138 instrument panel - 142 lighting switch - 141 rear lights - 139 side lights - 139 starter motor - 133 stop light - 139 windscreen wiper - 137 Engine dismantling, general - 19 examination and renovation, general - 28

fault finding - 39 final assembly - 37 general description - 16 maintenance - 7 reassembly, general - 31 removal ancillary components - 19 removal with transaxle unit - 17 replacement - 37 Engine specifications and data - 13 Examples of spark plug conditions - 67 Exhaust system - 62 removal - 19

171

Index

F

Fan belt, fitting and adjustment - 48 Fault finding

braking system - 128 clutch - 79 cooling system - 49 electrical system - 143 engine - 39 fuel system - 64 gearbox, manual - 90 gearbox, automatic - 96

ignition - 83 suspension - 116 Filters

air - 53 oil - 21 Flywheel removal - 24

refitting - 35 Floor covering - 157 Front suspension - 106 Fuel system fault finding - 64 fuel gauge - 62 fuel pump - 61 fuel tank - 52 general description - 51 specifications - 51 Fuses - 135

Gearbox, automatic dismantling - 93

fault finding - 96 general description - 81 selector mechanism - 89 removal and replacement - 92 specifications - 81 torque converter - 94

Gearbox, manual assembly - 87

dismantling - 83 _ fault finding - 90 general description - 81 removal - 82 specification - 81 -Glass, renewing rear windows - 163 side windows - 161 windscreen - 163 Gudgeon pins - 26

Leads and spark plugs - 71 Lighting system headlamps - 146 interior light - 141 number plate - 139

rear lights - 139 routine maintenance - 66 sidelights - 139 stop lights - 139 stop light switch - 127 switches - 142 Lubrication chart - 10 systems - 28

M Main bearings, examination and renovation - 28 Maintenance - 7 Major operations engine.in car - 17 engine on bench - 17 Manual arrangement of chapters - 2

oO Oil filter - 28 Oil pressure relief valves - 28 Oil pump removal - 24 replacement - 34 Ordering spare parts - 6

Pistons rings removal - 26 replacement - 32 Pistons assembly - 32 removal - 24 Petrol tank - 165 R Rack and pinion steering - 111 Radiator anti-freeze - 45 draining - 45

filling - 45 flushing - 45 inspection and cleaning - 46 Rear suspension, general description - 115 removal and replacement - 115 Rear window renewal - 163 Rockers and shaft, examination and renovation - 30 Rocke: shaft reassembly - 35 Routine maintenance - 7

Halfshafts - 100 Handbrake, adjustment - 121 Heater dismantling and reassembly - 165 removal and replacement - 165

Selector mechanism - 89 Shock absorbers front - 108

High tension leads - 71 Hood removal - 161

Side lights - 139

Horns - 137 Hydraulic - brake fluid pipes - 123 clutch - 73

Ignition system coil - 72 distributor - 68 fault finding - 72 general description - 66 routine maintenance - 66 specifications - 65 timing - 70

rear-115

Spark plug conditions - 67 Spare parts, ordering - 6 Specifications, technical braking system - 117 carburation - 51 clutch - 73 cooling system - 41 electrical system - 129

engine - 13 Tuel system - 51 gearbox - 81 ignition system - 65 suspension system - 105 Speedometer cable - 90

172

Index

Starter motor, circuit testing - 133

cooling system - 43

dismantling and reassembly - 133

differential - 81

general description - 133 removal - 133 Steering

drive shaft, hubs - 99 electrical system - 129 engine - 15, 16

fault finding - 116 general description - 106 removal and replacement rack and pinion - 111 specifications - 105 Stop lights - 135 Sump removal - 21 Suspension

fuel system - 52 gearbox - 81, 82 110

suspension and steering - 105, 106 Tyres - 102 U Universal joint - 103 Upholstery - 158

front - 106 rear- 115

Vv Valve guides, examination and renovation - 31 Valves and seats, examination and renovation - 29 Valves and guides, removal - 26 Valves and springs, reassembly - 35

T Tappets

examination and renovation - 30 replacement - 32 Technical specifications - refer to specifications Thermostat - 46 Timing chain removal - 24 replacement - 33 Timing gear removal - 24 replacement - 33 Timing - Ignition - 70 Torque wrench settings braking - 117 clutch - 73

Voltage regulator - 135 Ww Water pump dismantling and overhaul - 47 reassembly - 48 removal and refitting - 46 Wheels - 102 Fa Wheel alignment - 114 Windows, renewal - 161 Windscreen, renewal - 163 Windscreen wiper system ; 136 Wing removal - 163

Printed

by

J. H. HAYNES & Co. Ltd Sparkford

Yeovil Somerset ENGLAND

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