124 96 30MB
English Pages 292 Year 2013
323 Oct 1989 to 1998 Ccmien 3 registration)
Haynes Service and Repair Manual
Includes Roadside Repairs and MOT Test Checks
—” j
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation
https://archive.org/details/mazda323servicerO000ledo
CEP EssexWorks. For a better quality of life
anual Louis LeL Please return this book on or before the date shown above. 1
Models covered
"enew go to www.essex.gov.uk/libraries, ring 0845 603 7628
Mazda 323 3-door hat¢
D loes
Not
(3455-288-10AG2)
go to any Essex library.
i,
t cover 5-door oor h na A
E
Does not cover 1.3 litre cl
}cc and 1840 cc engines
ssex County Coun z |
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ABCDE FC
© Haynes Publishing 2003 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any
means,
electronic
or mechanical,
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. ISBN 97.
Printed in the USA
including
Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc
80 85733 660 0
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504. 751 45 I Inneala, Sweden
ssex County Council
WLU AVL 3013020513774 7
Contents LIVING WITH YOUR Introduction
MAZDA
323
.
Page
004
Page
0e*5
Page
0°6
Page
0Oe7
Identifying leaks
Page
098
Towing
Page
0:*8
Underbonnet check points
Page Page
009 009
Engine oil level
Page
0910
Windscreen/window washer fluid
Page
0e10
Brake/clutch fluid level
Page
0°11
Safety First!
Roadside Repairs Jump starting Jacking and wheel changing
;
Weekly Checks Introduction
Coolant level
Page
Oe11
Tyre condition and pressure
Page
0e12
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
Page 0913
MAINTENANCE Routine Maintenance and Servicing Servicing specifications
Page
1Ae1
Maintenance schedule
Page
1Ae3
Maintenance procedures
Page
1Ae6
Servicing specifications
Page
1Be1
Maintenance schedule
Page
1Be3
Maintenance procedures
Page
1Be6
Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engines
Page
General engine overhaul procedures
Page
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Page
Fuel and exhaust systems
Page
Engine electrical systems
Page
Emissions and engine control systems
Page
Transmission Manual transmission
Page
Automatic transmission
Page
Clutch and driveshafts
Page
Brakes and Suspension Brakes
Page
Suspension and steering systems
Page
Body equipment Body
Page
1191
Chassis electrical system
Page
12¢1
Wiring Diagrams
Page 12°16
REFERENCE Dimensions
Page
REFe1
Conversion Factors
Page
REFe2
Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers
Page
REFe3
Radio/cassette unit Anti-theft System
Page
REFe3
General Repair Procedures
Page
REFe4
Tools and Working Facilities
Page
REFe5
MOT Test Checks
Page
REFe7
Fault Finding
Page REFe11
Glossary of Technical Terms
Page REFe18
Index
Page REFe23
oe4 INtroduction The transversely mounted inline fourcylinder engines used in these models are equipped with electronic fuel injection. The engine drives the front wheels through a manual or automatic transmission via independent driveshafts.
Independent
suspension,
featuring
coil
spring/strut damper units, is used on the front wheels, while independent suspension using shock absorbers and coil springs or coil
behind
the engine with
rack
became available on later models.
and
pinion
steering
unit is mounted
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that
you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a garage and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions
show
the
function
of
the various
components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat facing forwards.
Mazda 323 3-door Hatchback
Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Mazda Motor Corporation for their assistance with technical information and certain illustrations. The technical writer who contributed to this project is Jay Storer. Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools. Special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.
assistance
spring/strut dampers is used at the rear. The
Your Mazda 323 manual
to
power
available as an option. The brakes are disc at the front and drums or disc at the rear, with servo assistance as standard. An Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
Mazda 323 4-door Saloon
Safety first! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning e Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing e When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle
WE
tands, Ae hed use ramps.
(|=a =i ay (Qed
—d
Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. ¢ Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
e Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication * Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon
«
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.
e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
e Ignition HT
sc
voltage canbe & dangerous, S especially to IP people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.
ohos%
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember... DO
DON’T
© Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.
e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get
e Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. ¢ Do get someone to check periodically
rsa
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Electric shock
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky
Poisonous or irritant substances
¢ Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. e Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
Asbestos
(electrically or by use of tools).
Hydrofluoric acid
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Fire
¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks
Special hazards
assistance. e Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.
that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.
¢ Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.
¢ Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop
e Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system.
© Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.
© Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
up oil and fuel spills at once.
oo Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
HAYNES
Y
VY Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis switched off. Y
Y
Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
eZ
Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
5| Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Ii
Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
2
Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct HINT whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.
The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).
Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.
The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Bc} Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery
|
4 Pe 4:
4
%
4
‘
a
Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the engine.
_y.
.
Stari the engine using the booster
hattery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and
heaicr blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.
Roadside repairs 0-7
Jacking and wheel changing Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tyre or placing axle stands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level earth. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transmission. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the handbrake. Remove the spare tyre and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the wheel nut spanner by inserting and twisting the handle and then levering against the back of the wheel cover. Loosen the wheel nuts about 1/4-to-1/2 turn each. Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it fits in the notch in the flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tyre clears the ground. Remove the wheel nuts
spare.
vehicle. Remove the jack and wheel nuts in a diagonal pattern.
Refit the wheel nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle anti-clockwise to lower the
be sure it’s snapped into place all the way around. Stow the tyre, jack and spanner. Unchock the wheel.
and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the
tighten the
Refit the cover (and trim ring, if used) and
The jack fits under the vehicle, indicated by notches in the sills
og Roadside repairs Identifying leaks Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide
where
the
leak
is coming
from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the
HAYNES
The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car and to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
problem lies.
Sump a oil
Oil from filter |
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
...or from the base of the oil filter.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
Caution: Never tow a front wheel drive vehicle from the rear with the front wheels on the ground. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the
designed for securing the vehicle during transport, if used for towing, damage to the
main structural members
isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Place the gear lever in neutral and release the handbrake.
Gearbox oil
x
A
s
|
=
aie
é
Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed from the front with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. must
be
towed
from
the
If the vehicle
rear,
place
front wheels on a towing dolly. vehicle has to be towed with the front on the ground, speed must not 35 mph, and the distance must not 50 miles.
the
If the wheels exceed exceed
of the vehicle, not
the bumpers or brackets. Do not use the tiedown hook loops at the front or the rear of the vehicle for towing. These hooks loops are
front or rear bumper may occur. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism
Weekly checks
o-9
Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot on inconvenience and expense.
LJThese Weekly Checks require no great skill or special tools, and the smal! amount of time
they take to perform could well prove to be very well spent, for example;
[]Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. LJIlf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage greater than fixing the leak.
will be far
Underbonnet check points 1.6 litre SOHC engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Brake/clutch fluid reservoir C Windscreen washer fluid reservoir D Power steering fluid reservoir
E Battery F Engine oil filler cap G Spark plug caps Note: Project vehicle is left-hand component locations may vary
drive;
oi0 Weekly checks Engine oil level
PPWaNiaci HINT
Before you start
/f the oil level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!
V Make sure that your car is on level ground. V Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.
The correct oil It is important to use Lubricants and fluids).
a suitable
oil (see
Vehicle care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil (see Fault Finding). A continually dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals, from loose connections, or past worn rings or valve guides. @ If the oil looks milky in colour or has water droplets in it, a cylinder head gasket may be
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located on the right side of the engine compartment at the front of the
engine. The dipstick extends through a metal
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
tube from which it protrudes down into the engine sump.
blown. The engine should be checked immediately. @ Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed. @ Do not allow the level to drop below the L mark or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the engine (adding oil above the F mark) may cause oil fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures.
Observe the oil at the end of the dipstick. At its highest point, the level should be
between the L (Low) and F (Full) marks.
Remove the threaded cap from the valve cover to add oil. Use a funnel to prevent spills. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand tight. Check the oil level again after it has had sufficient time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head.
Windscreen/window washer fluid Before you start
Car care
V Fluid for the windscreen washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir which is located in the right front corner of the engine compartment. Fluid for the rear hatchback window washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir located in the right rear corner of the boot space.
@ Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water,
ZN
as the screenwash
will become
diluted, and
will freeze in cold weather.
Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system - this may damage the paintwork.
1
If topping-up is necessary, remove the cap, and fill the reservoir with a mixture of screenwash additive and water.
Weekly checks
011
Brake/clutch fluid level Before you start UY
Make
sure
that
the
car
is on
level
ground.
Safety first @ If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned. @ While the reservoir cap is removed, inspect the fluid for contamination. If deposits, dirt particles or water droplets are present, the system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 8 for clutch fluid renewal and Chapter 9 for brake fluid renewal). @ The fluid in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down during normal operation. If the fluid requires repeated replenishing to keep it at the proper level, this is an indication of leakage which should be corrected immediately. Check all brake and clutch lines and connections. @ If, upon checking the fluid level, you discover the reservoir empty or nearly empty, the brake and clutch system must be inspected immediately (see Chapters 8 and 9).
Y Cleanliness is of great importance when dealing with the braking system, so take care
and clutch hydraulic systems. The reservoir is
to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid.
mounted in front of the brake servo unit in the engine compartment.
AN
Y
Acommon
reservoir is used for the brake
Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
2 If the level is low, wipe the top of the reservoir cap with a clean rag to prevent contamination of the brake and clutch systems before lifting the cap. Add only the specified brake fluid to the brake/clutch reservoir (refer to Lubricants and fluids). Mixing different types of brake fluid can damage the system. Fill the reservoir to the MAX level. level of the check the fluid brake/clutch reservoir, simply look at the MAX (Maximum) and MIN (Minimum)
To
marks on the reservoir. The level should be at or near the MAX fill line on the reservoir.
3 After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure the cap is properly seated to prevent fluid leakage and/or system pressure loss.
Coolant level
Warning: Never remove the radiator cap or the coolant recovery reservoir cap VIN when the engine is running or has just been switched off, because the cooling - system is hot. Escaping steam and scalding liquid could cause serious injury. Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system - this may damage the paintwork.
Before you start
Vehicle care
V The coolant level should be checked before the vehicle has been driven when the engine is Cool.
@ With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak
in the system.
Inspect the radiator,
hoses,
engine coolant filler cap, drain plugs, air bleeder plugs and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the radiator cap pressure tested by your dealer. @ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.
1 The coolant level must be between the F (Full) and L (Low) marks on the dipstick attached to the reservoir cap.
Use only ethylene-glycol type coolant and soft (demineralized) water. Do not use supplemental inhibitor additives. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, water
@ When checking the coolant level, always note its condition. It should be relatively ciear. If it is brown or rust coloured, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the coolant appears to be normal, the
can be used. However, repeated additions of water will dilute the recommended antifreeze and water solution. In order to maintain the
corrosion
proper ratio of antifreeze and water, it is advisable to top up the coolant level with the correct mixture.
inhibitors wear out with use, so it
must be renewed at the specified intervals. @ Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contacted areas immediately with plenty of water.
o12 Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls.
Periodically
The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A). :
the wheels,
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
é
Tread Depth - visual check
remove
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
oS
Z
i
sit
monitored
tread
wear
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
:e
;
a) Tyre Pressure Check
Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively,
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
can
be
with a simple, inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Centre Wear
Uneven
Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Wear
Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
0613
Lubricants and fluids Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W-30 to 20W-50, to API SG or better Water and ethylene glycol based antifreeze Dexron II automatic transmission fluid
Gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W-90, to API GL-4 or GL-5 Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703 or FMVS116 DOT 3 Dexron II automatic transmission fluid
Choosing your engine oil Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel
economy.
¢ Cooling hot-spots
OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE
Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots
To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always: e Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. e Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. t 1x Call 0800 663366 to find ort 0800 66 33 66 the one nearest to you. www.oilbankline.org.uk Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.
to the sump.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS ¢ Beating friction
e Cleaning the engine internally
Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.
Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.
Tyre pressures Note: Recommended
tyre pressures are marked on a label attached to the driver’s door edge or frame. Pressures apply to original-equipment
tyres, and may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary.
Typical pressures for up to 3 people
Rear
Front
1.3 litre models
Up to 1994 MOO DTONGATCK css ec deseoclecete wun be Beets MMC IDOCEIS steteccicieicls «,= wun dels aeiko anes NPOMITROMMOCCIS eisises co cee ccc abe emieyaaie 1.8 litre models
Up to 1994
1.9 2.2 2.1 1.9
bar bar bar bar
(28 (32 (30 (28
psi) psi) psi) psi)
1.8 2.2 2.1 1.8
bar bar bar bar
(26 (32 (30 (26
psi) psi) psi) psi )
2.1 bar (30 psi)
1.9 bar (28 psi)
2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)
1995 and later
Rta OOKTAMVIGSt Cn fot. eee es LEVER ISINICS sna alge gerael euae,
0014
Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.
Learning to drive three driving skills:
(| Quick reactions.
Many people see the words ‘advanced driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the
truth.
Advanced
driving is straightforward
safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some
seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.
by ‘experience’
teaches
(Whoops, that was
close!) Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...) Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of
their vehicle.
They avoid accidents and near
misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes.
The key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to
these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.
1Ae1
Chapter 1 Part A Routine maintenance and servicing — models up to 1994 Contents 0 2 Ji 2 4. oe eee Automatic transmission fluid and filter change ................. Automatic transmission fluid level check ...............20000: Battery check, maintenance and charging .................4:. 8 EEE 2 lbs Be iite gibi 5 eens eat gen ee 2 0 1 5 BIE BLES Sede 5 see ae ee Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment ......... 00 J) ESS CLES Se eee ee eee Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ........ Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal ..................--0 2 BSCE Selg he een ee ee Demmenmmrmacnedgitcl CNANGe .. =.= se ee ee ee een eee Evaporative emissions control system check ...............-.. ME SECRET IOCKM re oarSe Gis «= oe ees .ai6 din wine oe ee bs MERIC AME Sees core h isie Sic s qpeis)s ot Seals es ee eee Oo
25 27 18 8 24 10 5 13 21 6 19 3 16 22 26
ISON SUSAOIED EAIOCR rl See nies eet ey a on Lin et aon ee GENCTALGHONITIGHON = csc Fc ee eee ee ee eee RMIOCRECIN. Sat Sosa oso a a eee eee ot oe een es ee eco Manual transmission lubricant change ...................000. Manual transmission lubricant level check .................... Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose check and OTIC Se oe gn os Os = pie Re er eiarG Se esa we avec elaera Power steering fluid level check ..................22.. ee eeee Spark plug check and renewal... . 2 won Se ee cee ence cues Spark plug lead, distributor cap and rotor check and renewal ..... steenmng and suspension cheek 5222 5~ 222 -ssace-encce++ sues Underbonnet hose check and renewal ....................0-Valve tlearance Ghetic ao a= ae meee Bir ere eao ete aw as aed woe oh Windscreen wiper blade inspection and renewal
...............
Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for
WN
novice with little
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with
| Very difficult,
Suitable for expert DIY or professional
Specifications Capacities* Engine oil (including filter) 1.3 litre engine 1.5 litre engine 1.6 litre engine 1.8 litre engine Engine coolant 1.3 litre engine 1.5 litre engine
3.2 litres 3.5 litres
3.2 litres 3.8 litres 5.0 litres
5.0 MIRE ATIS SION Reais: « ohoeitt VASAT NWR A AS colwWate ayulaiah’ Oe 6.0 Automatic transmission 1.6 litre engine 5.0 EMEEELCAISITUS SION Matas) «annette MARTIN Kswwe KAKA Aa Ne RT ACRANA 6.0 Automatic transmission 3.8 1.8 litre engine 5.0 TG OHO ME ir tenis so A LANGE Cee wn Gan MARS: CAN 6.0 SS AIRGMEVED cove plone rrCnerec ITEC arinibOC een aC Transmission lubricant Manual 2,7 1.3, 1.5, 1.6 litre 1.8 litre engine 3.4 BROOM OCA Mra Taveaini DDN IA dO RRL OME Hy Kh A DN 2.7 oS che Che AL e Fre EI EEL MEE NCIC EC ae EL Automatic SRTOre NGM tite Line dd LAK yd UN ON Wary Liew Cae Weare yale 4.9 5.8 NON hi se vn OTL LT IAM OO LANA W kA ae 4.9 AON Hy MCL A DOL EDDA OU REET as “All capacities approximate. Add as necessary to bring up to appropriate level,
litres litres litres litres litres
litres litres
litres litres litres litres litres
litres
14 2 1 28 17 23
= 15 20 11 9 12 7
iAe2 Servicing specifications
Recommended
lubricants and fluids
Refer to Weekly checks
Ignition system Spark plugs VA Helotel[alecsresy CaMOrUm rer kon enCNeOIE Gein arr oho nt re Said A arn aia os Beng SToyzi.c]e) (te ptertel{ cE ln) oaancooosbone pau dns nonodengosds Dua Engine firing order
Type Electrode gap Bosch FR 7 D+X 1.1mm 16 k-ohms per metre at 20° C (68° F)
1-3-4-2
Valve clearance 1.3 litre engine (engine hot) 125 litrevengine' (engine'Cold) = B
) B
rP