Haynes Mazda 323 (FWD) '81 to '89 Owners Workshop Manual 1850106088, 9781850106081

Citation preview

MAZDA RPA front-wheel-drive Mar 1981 to Oct 19890 1071cc 4 1296cc 1323cc 0 1490cc 0 1498cc 0 159/cc

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eference Department q THIS BOOK MUST NOT BE REMOVED UNDER ANY PRETEXT FROM THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT. INFRINGEMENT OF THIS RULE RENDERS THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION.

Before leaving the Library readers must return the books to one of the attendants at the issue desk, or they will be held responsible for them.

Readers are required to take care of the books, Writing or drawing with pen or pencil on any part of a book, or turning down the leaves, or cutting or mutilating them, will be treated as serious damage. q CONVERSATION IN THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT IS ANNOYING TO STUDENTS, AND IS NOT

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Mazda

Owners Workshop Manual Mark Coombs Models covered Mazda 323 Hatchback, Saloon and Estate front-wheel-drive models, including special/limited editions 1071 cc, 1296 cc, 1323 cc, 1490 cc, 1498 cc and 1597 cc petrol engines Also covers major features of Estate models to May 1991 Does not cover DOHC Turbo 4x4 or revised model range introduced in October 1989

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Restoring and Preserving our Motoring Heritage yo

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Few people can have had the luck to realise their dreams to quite the same extent and in such a remarkable fashion as John Haynes, Founder and Chairman of the Haynes Publishing Group. Since 1965 his unique approach to workshop manual publishing has proved so successful that millions of Haynes Manuals are now sold every year throughout the world, covering literally thousands of different makes and models of cars, vans and motorcycles. A continuing passion for cars and motoring led to the founding in 1985 of a Charitable Trust dedicated to the restoration and preservation of our motoring heritage. To inaugurate the new Museum, John Haynes donated virtually his entire private collection of 52 cars. Now with an unrivalled international collection of over 210 veteran, vintage and classic cars and motorcycles, the Haynes Motor Museum in Somerset is well on the way to becoming one of the most interesting Motor Museums in the world. A 70 seat video cinema, a cafe and an extensive motoring bookshop, together with a specially constructed one kilometre motor circuit, make a visit to the Haynes Motor Museum a truly unforgettable experience.

Every vehicle in the museum is preserved in as near as possible mint condition and each car is run every six months on the motor circuit.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Holt Lloyd Limited who supplied the illustrations showing bodywork repair, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Mazda Cars (UK) Ltd and are used with their permission. Thanks are also

due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop

tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Enjoy the picnic area set amongst the rolling Somerset hills. Peer through the William Morris workshop windows at cars being restored, and browse through the extensive displays of fascinating motoring memorabilia. From the 1903 Oldsmobile through such classics as an MG Midget to the mighty 'E' Type Jaguar, Lamborghini, Ferrari Berlinetta Boxer, and Graham Hill's Lola Cosworth, there is something for everyone, young and old alike, at this Somerset Museum.

© Haynes Publishing Group 1992 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd., Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85010 608 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Haynes Motor Museum Situated mid-way between London and Museum is located just off the A303 at the Haynes Manual) and is open to the round, except Christmas Day and Boxing

Penzance, the Haynes Motor Sparkford, Somerset (home of public 7 days a week all year Day.

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Contents Page

Preliminary sections

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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and Servicing. ............cccccccccccccsssssssssssessessessessesscsessessessessessesatsussucansssssussresssessesavenssutsussusssaeneeateeeeneen’ eae MUSEO ANDES; AIANCAS veal a OAC IV Siete ee ao nw ken coset cacovet raves odvik Sos ankinccckoy cael Saab as cde gon ata cena tc eC eae WA eALSALET VMAS SCH VOC arate centers cacocgseatnal suadeatevoin oso) sels alae WitTaus git on cy aes CoS MNEDRRESE ccd cn ae ep ca aan galt NO eee eee a ERR ac Pret ae O/T FESS RETRY EYRE ga A ORO MRE RS NE PORATED

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eee en er eee Te ela Oe ee Rs le a 66 E series engine — in-car engine repair PrOCECUIES.............:ecsssecsssecsssocsessecscsssetsetessssessssesssesenecsnensssenseuedesinereceevensesssesess 72 Bi seriesengine: —in-Car ENGINE repail PFOCEAUTES. i.....:scacesevasoses.scpacaussdeccaisuesatecsasilllapensbeeee Dscscsevcustyletsccacctespbobeseet sees85 Engine removal and general engine overhaul ProCeCure.............scsssesesesesesesesssecscsscssscscsnssscsssscscsescecsescscseecesseseeeeees 100

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and ventilation SySteMsS.................cccccssssssessessssesseseesesccsecsescescssesesscscsnssssscssssssesssscavsscssssesassssasensacsersessesuceeenees 112 Chapter 4 Fuel, exhaust and emission control SySteEMS. ...............ccccccsessssesscsesesecsssesscsesesenescseeneesscsssscsecseseacsensessesstscsessescseesearsveeserseseenans RAI fiera OMAL OT CONE CtUJI VSSvcscortes eset css Wr hap acn wns cas hc piss oe stl on sue SCR ahha ac tla ih SAS: contest an See eee ae Flip ealsib tilistEni PavelfeYo Wedct(|g: lanes EMM n aber ere eee enn 5.1 RANSOM Ppaane RMS MPS ee. PRE oo ae” Ma | Fatt REINS SHOMUCOMUNO |SVSUCIM Sieaeccaeveca sees ses cteas osc Roe ooa ne east she oe aes ob Sas sae cara cee re Ic Meets ELS 2c a a ea

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Spark plug condition and bodywork repair colour pages between pages 32 and 33

Mazda 323

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Mazda 323 1500 GT Hatchback

Mazda 323

5

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Mazda 323 1500 GLX Estate

Mazda 323 1.3 LX Hatchback

About this manual a

Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Its arrangement The Manual is divided into Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-Sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is-a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the

Chapter - eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-Section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forward. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated int our Manuals at the earliest opportunity. é We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or

omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles The main project vehicles used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences were a 1988 Mazda 323 Hatchback and a pre-September 1985 323 Hatchback. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1500 GLX Estate, and 1.6i Hatchback.

Introduction to the Mazda 323 Introduced into the UK in the spring of 1981 the Mazda 323 quickly established itself as a leading contender in the small to medium car market and soon became the most popular Japanese car in its class in Europe.

The cars featured front-wheel drive from a_ transverse engine/transmission arrangement with independent front and rear suspension, dual circuit brakes and four- or five-speed manual or three-speed automatic transmission, depending on the model. The model range included three, or five-door Hatchback or four-door Saloon versions with a choice of 1100, 1300 or 1500 cc engines and a top of the range 1500 GT twin carburettor sports model. The model range remained largely unchanged until September 1985 when it underwent its first major update. The new models were visually sleeker with a redesigned interior. The original E series engine was retained but a new carburettor which was equipped with an automatic choke was fitted. The suspension was also slightly modified and ventilated front disc brakes were fitted. In November 1985 a new top of the range sports model, the 1600 cc 1.61 model was introduced into the UK. This three-door hatchback was

fitted with a new B type engine and was equipped with a Mazda Electronic Gasoline Injection (EGI) fuel injection system. The new model was comprehensively equipped and was fitted with disc brakes all round.

In May 1986 a 1500 cc Estate model was added to the range. In July 1987 a new Mazda 323 range was introduced into the UK to supersede the earlier models. The new models had a slightly redesigned body shape and were available in 1300 and 1500 cc carburettor versions

along with the fuel injected 1600 cc 1.61 model. All models were fitted with the B type engine, the 1300 and 1500 cc versions being very similar to the earlier 1600 cc engine except that Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLA) were fitted to automatically adjust the valve clearances hence alleviating the need to periodically adjust them at the required service interval. All Mazda 323 models were designed with the emphasis on economical motoring, with a high standard of handling, performance and comfort. The car is quite conventional in design and the DIY home mechanic should find most work straightforward.

General dimensions and weights Dimensions Overall length: Hatchback models: Pre-Septelmbend Geo esrccccareteccs eet oees tts aac. aces oti tteieicecnttige eer ee September *MISS:OnMWand esac seesarcnscasevsessscsscodsstvetrcsccsccooneoretnere uate Saloon models: Pre-Septenmben TOS Skiers. sree tascoreserrsecsirecarcsissescossssuroetitostuccspseatecrsarnte September 1985 onward .... State mmoles cscemesssccteeertes testeussteseas svvacsccseavesvasonces okescsscesnevasaiacs svednssescasiovtied Overall width: PTE-SEPLe MD LOS Secon ver cccecsecosacancecteen ctacasnossvcestascosescsouasouterace oucosadtecsteresss September idGBS Omweard dee eo seo cc cle sscatccyccecsrcserecs tevsacanceoasuonseitcectscerensuine

Overall height: : Hatchback and.Saloon models: PfE-SEPLSIMIDEN LOS Derercxtsccse secsase secu a ase sestaceeett cosas esiseeetevnay aacurcVempeetatons September 1985 onward State model Samcrt: crcstecercteuescostctsasesevsevsveves coxcversusstevacisvasvis pavescacaviccsdetonsvasscre Wheelbase: REE=SEPLE IMDS 1 OSS sean crceras-ccsscsveasceeastecastexersssouestezeet oaccuctaxsaesadonshesactbavessane September 1985 onward SOM titiaaKaren eee see cestrccncanaves ccceerct cavarstisza: trtaucisens errcaeoticomrososssacautescateeeenset Rear track: Pre-SepleMmbern TOGO cc eete tase eet cee eet hee EE ES rr Orie September 1985 Onward see eee eee eel Ge PET OS

3955 mm 3900 mm

4155 mm 4195 mm 4225 mm 1630 mm

1645 mm

1375 mm 1390 mm 1430 mm

2365 mm 2400 mm 1390 mm 1395 mm 1415 mm

Weights Kerb weight: 1100 cc 3-door Hatchback models: Pre=SCPleMBEN NOBD soc. ctescte se seee ccc cossoxesScaneds vce sansinasseveancacosnrens ROSCA DEDLEMMDEH LOSSIOMVAL ore cecvescsesHescsasetcsttondanecsosaccs hevasasessssrevsveseeascueak 1300 cc 3-door Hatchback models: PRE=SEDTEMDER TOSS... cccssscxcercsssttesteacssseetectesgheetzeareccsatestheendodheanasstestonot September 1985 to July 1987 SUNY TOS 7OMWAN..-laccscscasssosacossttttacs susePandonsogdeecearercstartuprvestnse.peczostacsesnes 1300 cc 5-door Hatchback models: PREZ SC DLCITMDCT VOSS: ssvscescensestes seas aancossduseusontescoastlbitessselvovocaxazesestcesssbess September 1985 to July 1987... SUNY TIS TiOMWANG soins cagttesteeetasencsssssonssenszcss 1300 cc 4-door Saloon Models... 1500 cc 3-door Hatchback models..............+ 1500 cc 5-door (manual) Hatchback models 1500 cc 5-door (auto) Hatchback models: SENISMBCH (ISSO IUNY 197 vecsccseccncxsareecsstesecster.tectrateterotipnucthteseeestaress JURY TOS TMOMMVANG Fosse scstox-csscsccrcecarssuveacsecesesonyaesscarsepscsresnstiguce uotsetesnsigsayte 1500 cc 4-door (manual) Saloon models:

PRE-SOPEC INEM AUOS Dictscesccrcsacsecaect tates tracsssvaeccscionccevssssosccadsenstevesscuscetvanens September 1985 to July 1987................. UW TOS TOMWV ANG ce cessstesrcnesy-ecuccescersecetectbe 1500 cc 4-door (auto) Saloon models SO OMCCESLALS MIMO CNS corvcactcecescaszcttcstectctevecackctesca tacking oeasaiccsassa cada ecSsassnancseass 1600 cc 3-door Hatchback models: September 1985 towuly 1987 ei.-ctssscstccsssastobectarcsceoserselnessessssnssszecccareeve SULVAROB 7OMWak eres tetetsc san seeresccocencestctceesee terectcucthtorascPexescouscbduseseveges Maximum braked towing weight: 1100 cc models: Pre-Septembe talGSS xii ccstsccenccacshsastosccecsbasttcnscesbecensteoaseatdensasooeastuatsacssess September 1985 OMWaArd 2..5.-.cc0chcasesececovecsteesoesaecoartecsercastecssssssseseetstonenes 1300 cc models: Pre-September 1985 ...........0000+ bossatatteagmeis aesccacce Mass badadesseahcetntacte Septembernd 985 to Yulyi1 987i s2-2.scscceccorwtodsessnascnscnsctsssecunseéseasantvastonnsse JubyplOS7omwean se Sey ca oh ee cagacadetaconcoes soyaeceaca iucesoacnsectenshsulennved 1500 cc Saloon and Hatchback models: Pre=U UVES Tea eieit tins ccnccusrsedehsecteroacantipsencteeseconcecssteacacusceoodtapn Wteroaaas Mle TSE Zc ta WWAN CU pee ect seces seamen tochtss cape cecteenstedocaesscttentat coatsustecconteeseors M5OOsmorEstatel models ies teceseecsceesetece ssa necuneseacuncyedsouteesnssenesscesarsosacacennsdiveuss 1600 cc models: Septembernd9S5 to July 198 F.acs.cceca.-cscasesosnsoarsnsevecartcabsvarsnorasedesutevscuncare SUNY AOS POM ancl ey ckesses seessseees cactesceten cca nacaneneann Maximum unbraked towing weight (all models)

820 kg 865kg 825 kg

865 kg 875 kg 840 880 895 845 865 945

kg kg kg kg kg kg

930 kg 970 kg

885 kg 925 kg 955 kg 980kg 950 kg 975 kg 960 kg

800kg 700kg

900 kg 800kg 1350 kg 1000kg 1450 kg 1000 kg 1100 kg 1550 kg 400 kg

Jacking, towing and wheel changing loosen the wheel nuts with the brace provided (where applicable remove the trim first). Locate the jack head in the jacking point nearest to the wheel to be changed and raise the jack using the jack handle. When the wheel is clear of the ground remove the nuts and lift off the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and moderately tighten the bolts. Lower the car and

To change a wheel, apply the handbrake and chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed. On automatic transmission models, place the selector lever in the P position. Make sure that the car

is located on firm level ground. Remove the spare wheel, jack handle, jack and wheelbrace from the luggage compartment and then slightly

Jack

Jack, tool kit and spare wheel locations

handle

Spare

tire

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Front towing hook

9

Rear towing hook

Raising the front of the car using the front crossmember jacking point

Front and rear side jacking points

then tighten the nuts fully. Refit the trim where applicable. With the spare wheel in position, remove the chock and stow the jack and tools in the luggage compartment. When jacking up the car to carry out repair or maintenance tasks position the jack as follows. If the front of the car is to be raised, position the jack head under the crossmember front mounting bolts. When the car is raised, supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under both the front jacking points on the front edge of the sills. To raise the rear of the car, position the jack head centrally under the rear crossmember. When the car is raised, supplement the jack with axle stands positioned along side the jack under the crossmember or under the rear jacking points on the sills. Never work under, around or near a raised car unless it is supported in at least two places with axle stands or suitable sturdy blocks.

Front axle stand positions

The car may be towed for breakdown recovery purposes only using the towing hook(s) positioned at the front of the vehicle (photo). On

early models there is a single front towing hook which is situated on the front crossmember mounting point whereas on later models there is a

10

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

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2) “2

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Rear axle stands positions Raising the rear of the car using the rear crossmember jacking point towing hook on both the right- and left-hand side of the front of the vehicle (photo). The rear towing hooks should be used only in an emergency situation, e.g. to pull the car out from a ditch, and not to tow the car any distance. All towing hooks are intended for towing loads only and must not be used for lifting the car either directly or indirectly. As a rule the vehicle must only be towed with its front wheels off the

ground. If excessive vehicle damage or other conditions prevent the vehicle being towed with the front wheels off the ground, the front wheels should be supported on wheel dollies. If the car is to be towed with all four wheels on the ground it may only be towed in a forward direction, noting that it can not be towed at a speed exceeding 35 mph (56 km/h) or for more than 50 miles (80 km) without the risk of serious

damage to the transmission.

11

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts

systems, brake pads, seals and hydraulic parts, clutch components,

Spare parts are available from many sources; for example, Mazda garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows. Officially appointed Mazda garages — This is the best source for parts which are peculiar to your car, and are not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if the vehicle is still under warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it will be necessary to give the storeman your car’s Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), and if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification. Many parts are available under a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean. It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part, as they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of

your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all the more important components which wear out comparatively quickly (eg exhaust

Chassis

bearing shells, pistons, valves etc). Motor factors will often provide new

or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture, quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle identification numbers being essential to correct identification of the component concerned. When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers as appropriate. The vehicle identification plate is \ocated on one or two plates attached to the front right-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The chassis number is located in the same position. The body number and paint code numbers are located on the vehicle identification plate. The engine number is stamped on the upper rear left-hand edge of the cylinder block just below the distributor.

(VIN)

number

Tire pressure

Engine number

Vehicle identification number and data locations

label

12

Safety first! However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive

list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make

you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

brake

linings, brake

bands,

clutch

linings, gaskets,

DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a structural part of the vehicle that you know will not give way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (eg wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the handbrake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil, automatic transmission fluid, or coolant until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below).

DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause

injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DON'T park vehicles with catalytic converters over combustible materials such as dry grass, oily rags, etc if the engine has recently been run. As catalytic converters reach extremely high temperatures, any such materials in close proximity may ignite. DON'T run vehicles equipped with catalytic converters without the exhaust system heat shields fitted. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as an electric drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle especially the electrical system.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle or jacking equipment used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job, and is used precisely as recommended by the manufacturer. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as

contain

they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle.

But the risk does not end there - a spark caused

Essential DOs and DON'Ts

etc -

asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that

by an electrical

short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under

certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Whenever possible disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Note: Any reference to a ‘torch’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent, especially if inhalation takes place through a lighted cigarette or pipe. Petrol vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. Although vehicles fitted with catalytic converters have greatly reduced toxic exhaust emissions, the above precautions should still be observed. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Batteries which are sealed for life require special precautions which are normally outlined on a label attached to the battery. Such precautions are primarily related to ‘situations involving battery charging and jump starting from another vehicle. With a conventional battery, never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, in close proximity to it. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Whenever possible disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Special care should be taken with the use of high

charge-rate boost chargers to prevent the battery from overheating. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing, eyes or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment When using an electric power tool, inspection light, diagnostic equipment etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed. Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and,

Safety first! again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

Ignition HT voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the

ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal, especially to wearers of cardiac pacemakers.

Jacking and vehicle support The

jack provided

with

the vehicle

is designed

primarily

for

13

emergency wheel changing, and its use for servicing and overhaul work on the vehicle is best avoided. Instead, a more substantial workshop jack (trolley jack or similar) should be used. Whichever type is employed, it is essential that additional safety support is provided by means of axle stands designed for this purpose. Never use makeshift means such as wooden blocks or piles of house bricks, as these can easily topple or, in the case of bricks, disintegrate under the weight of the vehicle. Further information on the correct positioning of the jack and axle stands is provided in the Jacking, towing and wheel changing Section. If removal of the wheels is not required, the use of drive-on ramps is recommended. Caution should be exercised to ensure that they are correctly aligned with the wheels, and that the vehicle is not driven too far along them so that it promptly falls off the other ends or tips the ramps.

14

General repair procedures Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets When separating components at their mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or similar implements into the joint between the faces in order to prise them apart. This can cause severe damage which results in oil leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly. Separation is usually achieved by tapping along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in order to break the seal. However,

note that this method

may not be suitable

where dowels are used for component location. Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner and keep them free of jointing compound, if this is being used, unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Oil seals can be removed by levering them out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or similar implement. Alternatively, a number of self-tapping screws may be screwed into the seal and these used as a purchase for pliers or some similar device in order to pull the seal free. Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, and the manufacturer has not made ‘provision for slight relocation of the seal relative to the sealing surface, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual-lipped

seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face (unless otherwise

crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the

nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align the split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting. However, this should not be attempted where angular tightening has been used. For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are no longer specified for the latter stages of tightening, ‘angle tightening’ being called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed by one or more stages of tightening through specified angles. ‘

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed. Self-locking nuts can be reused in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. However, it should be noted that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their effectiveness after long periods of use, and in such cases should be renewed as a matter of course. : Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole. When thread-locking compound is found on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wire brush and solvent, and fresh compound applied on reassembly.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedures described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

instructed).

Environmental considerations

Screw threads and fastenings Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite

acommon occurrence where

corrosion has set in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing fluid will often overcome this problem if the offending item is soaked for a while before attempting to release it. The use of an impact driver may also provide a means of releasing such stubborn fastening devices when used in conjunction with the appropriate screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these methods works, it may be necessary to resort to the careful application of heat, or the use of a hacksaw or nut splitter device. Studs are usually removed by locking two nuts together on the threaded part and then using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the

stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off below the surface of the component in which they are mounted can sometimes be removed using a proprietary stud extractor. Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to

When disposing of used engine oil, brake fluid, antifreeze etc, give

due consideration to any detrimental environmental effects. Do not, for

instance, pour any of the above liquids down drains into the general sewage system or onto the ground to soak away. Many local council refuse tips provide a facility for waste oil disposal as do some garages. If none of these facilities are available, consult your local Environmental Health Department for further advice. With the universal tightening-up of legislation regarding the emission of environmentally harmful substances from motor vehicles, most current vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted to the main

adjustment points of the fuel system. These devices are primarily

designed to prevent unqualified

persons from adjusting the fuel/air

mixture with the chance of a consequent increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are encountered during servicing or overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be renewed or refitted in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's requirements or current legislation.

15

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a

more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners: Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,17& 19mm

considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this Manual, we have compiled three

Adjustable spanner = 35 mm jaw (approx) Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool

lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine themselves to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, more difficult tasks can be undertaken, with extra tools being purchased as, and when, they are

Flat blade — approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia Combination pliers Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump

needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built

up into a Repair and overhau/ tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be

Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdrivers:

Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Oil filter removal tool Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

put.

Repair and overhaul tool kit Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Spline bit set

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. |Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive, they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile —- particularly if various

Spline key set

16

Tools and working facilities

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Cylinder bore hone

Three-legged hub and bearing puller

Micrometer set

Vacuum pump and gauge

Clutch plate alignment set

Compression gauge

Tools and working facilities

Bush and bearing removal/installation set

square-drive type, wrenches. If you then inexpensive supplemented by

tools from the Specia/ list.

Se/f-locking grips Ball pein hammer Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or rubber) Screwdrivers:

-

long & sturdy,

short

(chubby),

relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor (photo). Valve grinding tool Piston ring compressor (photo). Piston ring removal/installation tool (photo). Cylinder bore hone (photo).

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) (photo). Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

Flat blade

Tap and die set

Stud extractor set

drives are included in the set. We recommend the } in as this can be used with most proprietary torque cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be

17

and narrow

(electricians) types Cross blade - long & sturdy, and short (chubby) types Pliers: Long-nosed Side cutters (electricians) Circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - 25 mm Scriber

Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Brake hose clamp Brake/clutch bleeding kit Selection of twist drills Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (photos). Selection of files Wire brush Axle-stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type) Light with extension lead

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their

manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. Itis worth noting that many of the larger DIY superstores now carry a large range of special tools for hire at modest rates. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturer’s special tools in the text of this Manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the

Balljoint separator Coil spring compressors (where applicable) Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller (photo). Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (photos). Dial test indicator (photo). Stroboscopic timing light (photo). Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge (photo). Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge (photo). Clutch plate alignment set (photo). Bush and bearing removal/installation set (photo). Stud extractors (photo). Tap and die set (photo).

Lifting tackle Trolley jack

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools ina clean and serviceabie condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become

rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential.

18

Tools and working facilities

It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit

Spanner jaw gap and bolt size comparison table

of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof.

Jaw gap in (mm) 0.197 (5.00) 0.216 (5.50) 0.218 (5.53) 0.236 (6.00) 0.250 (6.35) 0.275 (7.00) 0.281 (7.14) 0.312 (7.92) 0.315 (8.00) 0.343 (8.71) 0.375 (9.52) 0.394 (10.00) 0.406 (10.32) 0.433 (11.00) 0.437 (11.09) 0.468 (11.88) 0.500 (12.70) * 0.512 (13.00) 0.562 (14.27) 0.593 (15.06) 0.625 (15.87) 0.669 (17.00) 0.687 (17.44) 0.709 (19.00) 0.750 (19.05) 0.781 (19.83) 0.812 (20.62) 0.866 (22.00) 0.875 (22.25) 0.937 (23.79) 0.945 (24.00) 0.968 (24.58) 1.000 (25.40) 1.062 (26.97) 1.063 (27.00) 1.125 (28.57) 1.182 (30.00) 1.187 (30.14) 1.250 (31.75) 1.260 (32.00) 1.312 (33.32) 1.375 (34.92) 1.418 (36.00) 1.437 (36.49) 1.500 (38.10) 1.615 (41.00)

Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw opening of 100 mm (4 in) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8 mm (78 in). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner size

Bolt size

5mm 5.5mm

M 2.5 M3

a in AF 6mm

M 3.5

4 in AF 7mm = in AF #5 in AF 8mm 44 in AF 3 in AF 10mm

M4

M5 M6

33 in AF 11mm

a in AF 48 in AF 4 in AF

M7 4 in SAE

13mm 3 in AF

7s in SAE M8 $ in SAE

43 in AF 3 in AF

a in SAE

17mm

M10

it in AF 19mm

3 in AF

M12 Lin SAE

28 in AF 13 in AF 22mm

% inAF 18 in AF 24mm 33 in AF 1 in AF

M14 zs in SAE $ in SAE M 16

1345 in AF

44 in SAE 3 in SAE

27mm

M18

13 in AF 30 mm

M 20

14; in AF 4 in AF

%in SAE

32 mm 14 in AF

M 22

13in AF 36 mm

14% in AF 14tin AF 41 mm

M 24 1 in SAE M 27

19

Booster battery (jump) starting When jump starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions.

a)

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

(b)

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers etc) is switched off. Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. /f the battery is being jump started from the battery in another

(c) (d)

vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT

(e)

NEGATIVE

18in. MIN

TOUCH each other.

Make sure that the transmission is in Neutral (manual gearbox) or Park (automatic transmission).

Connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the

DISCHARGED BATTERY

two batteries. Connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-)

terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing point on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block, at least 45 cm (18 in) from the battery if possible. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect the leads in the order shown

20

Conversion factors Length (distance) 25.4 0.305 1.609

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

= Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

XK x

0.0394 3.281 0.621

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in?) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

16.387 0.568 TelS7, 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 OX XK XX KKK KK x 3.785

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264 KK KKK XK

= Litres (I) = Litres (I)

= US quarts (US qt) Il Litres (I) Litres (I)

US gallons (US gal) = Litres (I)

Cubic inches (cu in; in?) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

X< x

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g)

0.278

= Newtons (N) = Newtons (N)

Ps

= Kilograms (kg)

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Chapter 12 Electrical system

MAIN FUSE X-05

BIEM) —>>—BIF] To Electrical Load Control Unit

(Section B-i)

IGNITION

To Engine Control Unit (Section B-e1, f2)

Short Connector

oT SWITCH

BY({EM]

(For M/T)

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12.35 Charging and starting wiring diagram (Saloon/Hatchback models 1987 on)

Chapter 12 Electrical system

BATTERY

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12.36 Charging and starting wiring diagram (Estate models 1987 on)

Chapter 12 Electrical system

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