Haynes Honda VFR750 & 700 V-Fours Service and Repair Manual 1785210394, 9781785210396

Citation preview

HAYNES

SERVICE

& REPAIR

MANUAL

« s r u o F V 0 0 7 & 0 5 UFR7 —

86 to ‘97

“« ..a Haynes manual is the first thing to invest in.. ”

Ride

Model history

Pre-ride checks Wiring diagrams

Tools & workshop tips

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/hondavfr750700vf0000chur

Honda VFR750 & 700 V-Fours Service and Repair Manual by Jeremy Churchill and Mark Coombs (2101-288-2Z3)

Models covered Honda VFR750F. 748cc. US 1986, and 1990 through 1997 Honda VFR750F. 748cc. UK 1986 through 1997 Honda VFR700F & FIl. 699cc. US 1986 and 1987

ABC

© Haynes Publishing 2000 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this in any form or by any means, photocopying, recording or by any without permission in writing from

book may be reproduced or transmitted electronic or mechanical, including information storage or retrieval system, the copyright holder.

Printed in the UK

ISBN 978 1 78521 039 6

Haynes Publishing

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 97-75028

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

LIVING WITH YOUR HONDA VFR Introduction The Birth of a Dream

Page

Oe4

Acknowledgements

Page

0°7

About this manual

Page

0°7

Identification numbers

Page

0°8

Buying spare parts

Page

08

Safety first!

Page

0°10

Engine/transmission oil level

Page

Oe11

Coolant level

Page

0°11

Brake fluid levels

Page

012

Clutch fluid level

Page

0°13

Suspension, steering and drive chain checks

Page

0°13

Legal and safety checks

Page

0°13

Tire checks

Page

0°14

Page

11

Daily (pre-ride checks)

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Specifications Recommended lubricants and fluids

Page

1°2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1°3

Component locations

Page

104

Maintenance procedures

Page

1°6

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine, transmission and associated systems Engine, clutch and transmission

Page

2e1

Cooling system

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems

Page

4e1

Ignition system

Page

5e1

Frame, suspension and final drive

Page

6e1

Brakes, wheelsandties ## = | Fairingandbodywork sages

Page Zed 84

Electrical system

Page

Wiring diagrams

Page 929

Chassis components

9e1

REFERENCE Dimensions and Weights

Page

REFe1

Tools and Workshop Tips

Page

REFe2

Conversion Factors

Page REFe20

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants

Page REFe21

MOT Test Checks

Page REFe22

Storage

Page REFe27

Fault Finding

Page REFe30

Fault Finding Equipment

Page REFe39

Technical Terms Explained

Page REFe43

Index

Page REFe47

og

Introduction

Drearr by Julian Ryder |

is no better example of the Japanese post-War industrial miracle than Honda. Like other companies which have become household names, it started with one man’s vision. In this case the man was the 40-year old Soichiro Honda who had sold his piston-ring manufacturing business to Toyota in 1945 and was happily spending the proceeds on prolonged parties for his friends. However, the difficulties of getting around in the chaos of post-War Japan irked Honda, so when he came across a job lot of generator engines he realised that here was a way of getting people mobile again at low cost. A 12 by 18-foot shack in Hamamatsu became his first bike factory, fitting the Honda C70 and C90 OHV-engined models

simple two-stroke but it had a two-speed transmission and most importantly a pressed steel frame with telescopic forks and hard tail

rear end. The frame was almost triangular in profile with the top rail going in a straight line from the massively braced steering head to the rear axle. Legend has it that after the D-type’s first tests the entire workforce went for a drink to celebrate and try and think of a name for the bike. One man broke one of those silences you get when people are thinking, exclaiming ‘This is like a dream!’ ‘That’s it!’ shouted Honda, and so the Honda Dream was christened.

generator motors into pushbikes. Before long he’d used up all 500 generator motors and started manufacturing his own engine, Known

as the ‘chimney’, either because of the elongated cylinder head or the smoky exhaust or perhaps both. The chimney made all of half a horsepower from its 50 cc engine but it was a major success and became the Honda A-

type. Less than two years after he’d set up in Hamamatsu, Soichiro Honda founded the Honda Motor Company in September 1948. By then, the A-type had been developed into the 90 cc B-type engine, which Mr Honda decided deserved its own chassis not a bicycle frame. Honda was about to become Japan’s first post-War manufacturer of complete motorcycles. In August 1949 the first prototype was ready. With an output of three horsepower, the 98 cc D-type was still a

r Honda was a brilliant, intuitive engineer and designer but he did not bother himself with the marketing side of his business. With hindsight, it is possible to see that employing Takeo Fujisawa who would both sort out the home market and plan the eventual expansion into overseas markets was a masterstroke. He arrived in October 1949 and in 1950 was made Sales Director. Another vital new name was Kiyoshi Kawashima, who along with Honda himself, designed the company’s first four-stroke after Kawashima had told them that the four-stroke opposition to Honda’s two-strokes sounded nicer and therefore sold better. The result of that statement was the overhead-valve 148 cc E-type which first ran in July 1951 just two months after the first drawings were made. Kawashima was made a director of the Honda Company at 34 years old. The E-type was a massive success, over M

32,000 were made in 1953 alone, but Honda’s lifelong pursuit of technical innovation sometimes distracted him from commercial reality. Fujisawa pointed out that they were in danger of ignoring their core business, the motorised bicycles that still formed Japan’s

main means of transport. In May 1952 the F-type Cub appeared, another two-stroke despite the top men’s reservations. You could buy a complete machine or just the motor to attach to your own bicycle. The result was certainly distinctive, a white fuel tank with a circular profile went just below and behind the saddle on the left of the bike, and the motor with its horizontal cylinder and bright red cover just below the rear axle on the same side of the bike. This was the machine that turned Honda into the biggest bike maker in Japan

Introduction

os

The CB250N Super Dream became a favorite with UK learner riders of the late seventies and early eighties

ready for the TT. In 1959 the factory entered five riders in the 125. They did not have a massive impact on the event being benevolently regarded as a Curiosity, but sixth, seventh and eighth were good enough for the team prize. The bikes were off the pace but they were well engineered and very reliable. The TT was the only time the West saw the Hondas in ‘59, but they came back for more the following year with the first of a generation of bikes which shaped the future of motorcycling - the double-overhead-cam fourcylinder 250. It was fast and reliable - it revved to 14,000 rpm - but didn’t

with 70% of the market for bolt-on bicycle motors, the F-type was also the first Honda to be exported. Next came the machine that would turn Honda into the biggest motorcycle manufacturer in the world.

The C100 Super Cub was a typically audacious piece of Honda engineering and marketing. For the first time, but not the last, Honda invented a completely new type of motorcycle, although the term ‘scooterette’ was coined to describe the new bike which had many of the characteristics of a scooter but the large wheels, and therefore stability,

of a motorcycle. The first one was sold in August 1958, fifteen years later over ninemillion of them were on the roads of the world. If ever a machine can be said to have brought mobility to the masses it is the Super Cub. If you add in the electric starter that was added for the C102 model of 1961, the design of the Super Cub has remained since, ever unchanged substantially

testament to how right Honda got it first time. The Super Cub made Honda the world’s biggest manufacturer after just two years of production. onda’s export drive started in earnest _ in 1957 when Britain and Holland got their first bikes, America got just two bikes the next year. By 1962 Honda had half the American market with 65,000 sales. But Soichiro Honda had already travelled abroad to Europe and the USA, making a special point of going to the Isle of Man aly then the most important race in the GP calendar. He realised that no matter how

advanced his products were, only racing success would convince overseas markets for whom ‘Made in Japan’ still meant cheap and nasty. It took five years from Soichiro Honda’s first visit to the Island before his bikes were

handle anywhere near as well as the opposition.

However, Honda had now signed up nonJapanese riders to lead their challenge. The first win didn’t come until 1962 (Aussie Tom Phillis in the Spanish 125 GP) and was followed up with

The GL1000 introduced in 1975, was the first in Honda’s line of Goldwings

oe6 Introduction a world-shaking performance at the TT. Twenty-one year old Mike Hailwood won both 125 and 250 cc TTs and Hondas filled the top five positions in both races. Soichiro Honda’s master plan was starting to come to fruition, Hailwood and Honda won the 1961 250 cc World Championship. Next year Honda won three titles. The other Japanese factories fought back and _ inspired Honda to produce some of the

of Phot Edg Kel cour

most fascinating racers ever seen: the awesome Ssixcylinder 250, the five-cylinder 125,

and

the 500

four with

which the immortal Hailwood battled Agostini and the MV Agusta. When Honda pulled out of racing in ‘67 they had won sixteen rider’s titles, eighteen manufacturer’s titles, and 137 GPs, including 18 TTs, and introduced the concept of the Carl Fogarty in action at the Suzuka 8 Hour on the RC45 modern works team to cams where the British bikes had pushrods, motorcycle racing. Sales success followed they had electric starters when the Brits relied racing victory as Soichiro Honda had predicted, on the kickstart, they had 12V electrics when but only because the products advanced as even the biggest British bike used a 6V system. rapidly as the racing machinery. The Hondas There seemed no end to the technical wizardry that came to Britain in the early ‘60s were and when in 1968 the first four-cylinder incredibly sophisticated. They had overhead An early CB750 Four

CB750 road bike arrived the world changed for ever. They even had to invent a new word

for it: superbike. Honda raced again with the CB750 at Daytona and won the World Endurance title with a prototype DOHC version that became the CB900 roadster. There was the six-cylinder CBX, the first turbocharged production bike, they invented the full-dress tourer with the Goldwing and came back to GPs with the revolutionary ovalpistoned

NRS500

four-stroke,

a

much-

misunderstood bike that was more rolling experiment than racer. It was true, though, that Mr Honda was not keen on two-strokes early motocross engines had to be explained away to him as lawnmower motors! However, in 1982 Honda raced the NS500, an agile three-cylinder lightweight against the big fourcylinder opposition in 500 GPs. The bike won in the first year and in ‘83 took the world title for Freddie Spencer. In four-stroke racing the V4 layout took over from the straight four, dominating TT, F1 and Endurance championships and when Superbike arrived Honda were ready with the RC30. On the roads the VFR V4 became an instant classic while the CBR600 invented another new class of bike on its way to becoming a bestseller. And then there was the NR750. This limitededition technological tour-de-force embodied many of Soichiro Honda’s ideals. It used the latest techniques and materials in every component, from the oval-piston, 32-valve V4 motor to the titanium coating on the windscreen, it was - as Mr Honda would have wanted - the best it could possibly be. A fitting memorial to the man who has shaped the motorcycle industry and motorcycles as we know them today.

Introduction

07

The Honda VFRs To understand why the VFR750 was built like it was you have to understand what had happened with Honda’s previous V4s. The

Cruiser-style VF750S of 1982 was a damp squib, so the much sportier VF750F of 1983 was supposed to put things right. It was a very good bike but a production engineering oversight allowed clearances in the top-end to knock out camshafts. The V4 engine was simply not trusted, the reputation of the concept that was to be the mainstay of the biggest motorcycle company in the world

was in tatters. Honda had one last chance to get the riding public to accept the V4. The new-for86 VFR750 had to be right or Honda would lose face and have to abandon the V4, a situation the company simply could not allow. The press saw the bike for the first time after the Bol d’Or of 1985 at a swanky launch in St Tropez. Reaction was muted for the bike was not the out-and-out sportster expected to cash in on the World F1 and Endurance Championship success of the RVF750 racer. It featured the aluminium frame and gear drive to the camshafts from the racer, but stylistically it was restrained. The first chance to ride it, at the then new Jerez circuit in southern Spain, showed that while the bike was a relaxing ride it most definitely lacked nothing in racetrack ability when compared to the competition of the

1987 Honda VFR750F developed single-sided swinging arm (Pro-

stock VFR at Donington Park. Fortuitously, it rained and Ron ran with the pack. Legend has it that it was impossible to buy a VFR in a UK Honda dealer’s shop for weeks such was the demand. The V4 was vindicated in the eyes of the buying public. And they were not to be disappointed. The

VFR proved to be a jack of all trades and, remarkably, a master of most of them. It was quick and could give the more focussed sports bikes a run for their money yet it was also a perfectly practical two-up tourer. That rarest of things, a true all-rounder. Subsequent experience shows that the initial confidence was well-placed. There are still high-mileage first-generation VFRs running around that haven’t had a spanner laid on their engine internals. The first VFRs hit the shops in early 1986 and staid basically unchanged - apart from the front wheel going up from 16 to 17-inch diameter and the indicators being mounted on the fairing instead of stalks for the 1988 FJ - until the 1990 model year when the FL appeared with a completely new chassis, much more radical stance, modified cylinder heads and Honda’s_ endurance-racing

Acknowledgements

About this Manual

ur thanks to Andy Stokes and P.R. Ore & Sons of Chippenham who supplied the VFR750F-L, to Paul Branson Motorcycles of Yeovil who supplied

Te aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the motorcycle into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money

time. Perhaps the biggest PR success possible came at the Transatlantic Trophy, the Easter USA versus Great Britain match races, when Honda UK were unable to supply a bike for Ron Haslam and put him out on a

the VFR750F-H, and to Bridge Motorcycle World of Exeter who supplied the VFR750F-R model. We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color spark plug condition photos and the Avon Rubber Company for supplying information on tire fitting. Thanks are also due to Honda (UK) Ltd and Kel Edge for supplying colour transparencies. The introduction, “The Birth of a Dream” was written by Julian Ryder.

arm). The VFR looked much racier than it used to but was still much more of an allrounder than the super-sports 750 competition which had moved over to all-out race-replica style for Superbike homologation. Honda had the RC30 for that, so the VFR maintained its supreme usability. The VFR metamorphosed again for the FR of 1994. This time they didn’t continue down the sporty route but took their styling cues from the NR750. It was nowhere as big a makeover as the 1990 model but it sure looked different, thanks mainly to the fairing louvres straight off the NR. However, if you strip the glass fibre off any VFR from any year you'll find that same V4 motor with geardriven cams set like a diamond in a twin-

beam aluminium frame. Honda had to get the VFR750 right. They did.

can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labour and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself. References to the left or right side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the

seat, facing forward. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

oes Identification numbers

OE

re

Frame and engine numbers The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the steering head, and is also stamped on the identification plate attached to the right side of the frame. The engine number is stamped into the right upper side of the crankcase, directly above the clutch unit. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a theft. The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver’s license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine. The procedures in this manual identify each model by its code letter. The model code (e.g. VFR750FL) is printed on the color code label, stuck to the rear fender (mudguard) under the seat. The model code and production year can also be determined from the engine and frame serial numbers as follows:

UK models Frame number

Engine number

VFR750F-G VFR750F-H VFR750F-J VFR750F-K VFR750F-L VFR750F-M VFR750F-N VFR750F-P VFR750F-R VFR750F-S VFR750F-T VFR750F-V

(1986) (1987) (1988) (1989) (1990) (1991) (1992) (1993) (1994) (1995) (1996) (1997)

RC24E-2000101 RC24E-2100065 RC24E-2202367 RC24E-2300001 RC36E-2000085 RC36E-2101280 RC36E-2200020 RC36E-2300001 RC86E-2400297 RC36E-2500154 RC36E-2600001 RC36E-2700001

to to on on to to to to to to on on

2013035 2104493

RC24-2000068 to 2009621 RC24-2100061 to 2104084 RC24-2202353 on RC24-2300001 on

2013323 2112012 2208633 2308173 2409970 2507057

RC36-2000067 to 2010938 RC36-2101254 to 2108971 RC36-2200020 to 2206995 RC36-2300001 to 2306366 RC36-2400273 to 2407797 RC36-2500038 to 2505135 RC36A-TM000001 RC36A-VM100001

on on

California models 700 models

Engine number

Frame number

VFR700F-G (1986)

RC26E-2000008 to 2004359 RC26E-2000237 to 2001470 RC26E-2100002 to 2102665

RC261-GMO000000 to GM001036 RC263-GM000001 to GMO00500

VFR7OOFII-G (1986) VFR7OO0FII-H (1987)

RC263-HA105346 to HA105615/RC263-HM100001

to

HM100490

Buying spare parts

750 models

Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying

VFR750F-G (1986) VFR750F-L (1990)

the correct parts.

Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up

with the wrong incorrectly.

number

or

be

listed

The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains,

brake

parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory

outlet have major suspension

components,

cylinders, transmission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison. Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.

VFR750F-M (1991) VFR750F-N (1992) VFR750F-P (1993) VFR750F-R (1994) VFR750F-S (1995) VFR750F-T (1996) VFR750F-V (1997)

RC24E-2000519 RC36E-2006122 RC36E-2100001 RC36E-2201399 RC36E-2300001 RC36E-2400001 RC36E-2501214 RC36E-2600001 RC36E-2700001

on to to to to to to on on

2010154 2104645 2202943 2301268 2406662 2503555

RC241-GM000002 RC361-LM000011 RC361-MM100001 RC361-NM200006 RC361-PM300001 RC361-RM400001 RC361-SM500001 RC361-TM600001 RC361-VM700001

on to LM000227 to MM100403 to NM200186 to PM300217 to RM400268 to SM500248 on on

US models (except California) 700 models

Engine number

Frame number

VFR700F-G (1986)

RC26E-2000004 to 2004121

VFR7OO0FII-G (1986)

RC26E-2000065 to 2001875

VFR7OOFII-H (1987)

RC26E-2100001 to 2101798

RC260-GM000000 RC262-GM000001 RC262-HA105001 RC262-HM100001

to GM001826 to GM001000 to HA105395 to HM101781

RC240-GM000008 RC360-LM000009 RC360-MM100001 RC360-NM200008 RC360-PM300001 RC360-RM400003 RC360-SM500001 RC360-TM600001 RC360-VM700001

on to LM000788 to MM101581 to NM200817 to PM300992 to RM401253 to SM500248 on on

750 models

VFR750F-G (1986)

RC24E-2000485 on

VFR750F-L (1990)

RC36E-2006112 RC36E-2100001 RC36E-2201394 RC36E-2300006 RC36E-2400068 RC36E-2500001 RC36E-2600001 RC36E-2700001

VFR750F-M (1991) VFR750F-N (1992) VFR750F-P (1993) VFR750F-R (1994) VFR750F-S (1995) VFR750F-T (1996) VFR750F-V (1997)

to to to to to to on on

2010294 2104057 2208553 2301210 2406515 2503493

Identification numbers oe9

oe ima en ate

sis

AER

Nea is nue

“

Model code is printed on the color code label located on the rear

fender (mudguard)

‘

j

3

Engine number is stamped on the right side of the crankcase

oS

24

od me

Frame number is stamped on the right side o f the steering head

Zz

Mf

£

ve

Frame number can also be found on the identification plate on the right side of the frame

o-10 Safety first! Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having

@ Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. @ It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or

accidents,

electrical fire with water.

and

comprehensive

the

following

is

list of all dangers;

not

a

it is

intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike.

Asbestos ®@

Certain friction, insulating, sealing and

other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it

is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire @ Remember at all times that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by

careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent.

Remember... * Don’t start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. ® Don’t suddenly remove the pressure cap

from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. * Don’t attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. * Don’t grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you. * Don’t allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine’s paintwork or plastic components. * Don’t siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. * Don’t inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading). * Don’t allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. x Don’t use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. ® Don’t lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

Fumes @

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can

quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. @ When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours.

@

Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in

an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery @

Never cause

a spark, or allow a naked

light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. * Don’t rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts. * Don’t allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. * Don’t inflate a tyre above the recommended pressure. Apart from overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases the tyre may blow off forcibly. v Do ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up

to aid wheel or fork removal. v Do take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. v Do wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. v Do use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren’t left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. v Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

@ Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). @ |f possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external

source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. @ Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity @ When inspection appliance and that,

using an electric power tool, light etc., always ensure that the is correctly connected to its plug where necessary, it is properly

grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. @ A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

v Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. Vv Do keep your work area tidy - it is only

too easy to fall over articles left lying around. v Do exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. Vv Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. v Do get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. v¥ Do carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. v Do remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. @ If in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Daily (pre-ride) checks 1 Engine/transmission oil level

011

The correct oil ® Modern, high-revving engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important

centerstand is fitted support the motorcycle in an upright position.

¥ Start the engine and allow normal operating temperature.

it to reach

Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop.

V Stop the engine and allow the machine to sit undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the motorcycle

on

its centerstand.

Where

no

that the correct oil for your bike is used. @ Always top up with a good quality oil of the specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine.

@ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see Fault Finding).

API grade SF or SG SAE 10W40

eee

1

Unscrew the filler cap and dipstick from the right crankcase cover and wipe it clean. Insert the dipstick until its threads are resting on the crankcase cover

2

Remove the dipstick and check the oil level. The oil level should be between the marks on the end of the dipstick

If the level is below the lower (minimum) dipstick

mark,

the oil level should

be

topped up to bring the level up to the upper (maximum) mark on the dipstick. When the oil level is correct, screw the dipstick and filler cap into the cover

2 Coolant level V Make sure you have a supply of fresh coolant - mixture of 50% distilled water and 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol

antifreeze Y Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. V Stop the engine. On G through K models

remove the left side cover, and on L models onward remove the right middle fairing panel

(see Chapter 8, if necessary).

@ If the coolant is significantly above the upper level mark at any time, the surplus coolant should be siphoned off to prevent it

ia

CLAY

1

Coolant reservoir is behind left side cover

on G through K models. Coolant level should be between the UPPER and LOWER lines on the side of the reservoir

from being expelled out of the breather hose when the engine is running. @ If the coolant level falls steadily, check the system for leaks as described in Chapter 1. If no leaks are found and the level still continues to fall, it is recommended that the machine be taken to a Honda service agent who will pressure test the system.

Coolant reservoir is behind right middle fairing panel (see Chapter 8) on L models onward. Coolant level should be between the UPPER and LOWER lines on the side of the reservoir...

IS

Ry

a»

:

. . . to top up, remove the fairing panel, then pry off the reservoir cap and top up

with the specified coolant (see above) to the UPPER line. Do not overfill

o-12 Daily (pre-ride) checks 3 Brake fluid levels

Vv With the motorcycle on the centerstand or supported in an upright position, turn the handlebars until the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible. If necessary, tilt the motorcycle to make it level. On G through K models it will be necessary to remove the right side cover (see Chapter 8, if necessary) to

Warning: Brake and clutch hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

view the rear brake reservoir; on L models onward, the rear brake reservoir can be

viewed through the inspection hole in the right side cover.

V Make sure you have the correct hydraulic fluid - DOT 4 is recommended. V Before removing the master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid spills (which will damage the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from the area around the cap.

d

MS ff a

&

sah

1

Check the front brake fluid level through the inspection window in the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level, visible through the sightglass, is above the LOWER line on the reservoir

If the level is low, unscrew the retaining screws and lift off the cover, diaphragm plate and diaphragm. Top up the reservoir to the upper level mark; this mark is in the form of a line, cast on the inside of the front face of the reservoir 2

@ In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc brakes, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs must be properly maintained.

@ Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road; if there is evidence of air in the system, it must be bled as described in Chapter 7. @ If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the brake system for leaks.

Top up the reservoir to the upper level

mark using DOT 4 brake fluid from a freshly-opened container

When the fluid level is correct, clean and dry the diaphragm, fold it into its compressed state and install it in the reservoir followed by the diaphragm plate. Install the reservoir cover and securely tighten its retaining screws

6 Clean and dry the diaphragm, then fold it into its compressed state and install it in the reservoir followed by the diaphragm plate. Screw the cap back into place and install the side cover

On G through K and R models onward, a circular rear brake fluid reservoir is fitted. Level should be between UPPER and

LOWER cap

lines. To top up, unscrew reservoir

On L through P models a rectangular rear brake fluid reservoir is fitted. Level should be between UPPER and LOWER lines. Remove two screws to release reservoir cap and top up as shown in illustrations 5 and 6

Daily (pre-ride) checks oe13 4 Clutch fluid levels Warning: Brake and clutch hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can

A

cause a dangerous effectiveness.

loss

of braking

Before you start:

the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from

V With the motorcycle on the centerstand or supported in an upright position, turn the handlebars until the top of the clutch master cylinder is as level as possible. If necessary, tilt the motorcycle to make it level.

the area around the cap.

V Make sure you have the correct hydraulic fluid - DOT 4 is recommended.

VY Before removing the clutch master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid spills (which will damage

\

1 Check the clutch fluid level through the inspection window in the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level, visible through the sightglass, is above the LOWER line on the reservoir

‘i

Bike care: @ In order to ensure proper operation of the clutch, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir must be properly maintained. @ If there is evidence of air in the system (a spongy feel to the lever), the clutch must be bled as described in Chapter 2. @ If the clutch fluid level was low, inspect the

brake system for leaks.

~

2

If the level is low, unscrew the retaining screws and lift off the cover, diaphragm plate and diaphragm. Top up the reservoir to the upper leve! mark; this mark is in the form of a line, cast on the inside of the front face of the reservoir

When the fluid level is correct, clean and dry the diaphragm, fold it into its compressed state and install it in the reservoir followed by the diaphragm plate. Install the reservoir cover and securely tighten its retaining screws

5 Suspension, steering and drive chain checks Suspension and steering:

Drive chain:

@ Check that the steering operates smoothly,

@ Check that the drive chain slack excessive, and adjust if necessary Chapter 1).

without looseness or binding. @ Check that the suspension is adjusted as

isn’t (see

@ If the chain Chapter 1).

looks

dry, lubricate

it (see

required.

6 Legal and safety checks Fuel:

Lighting and signalling:

Safety:

@ Take a minute to check that the headlight,

@ Check

taillight, brake light, indicator lights and turn signals all work correctly. @ Check that the horn sounds when the switch is operated. @A working speedometer is a statutory requirement in the UK.

smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all steering positions. @ Check that the sidestand and centerstand return to their fully up positions and stay there under spring pressure. @ Check that the engine kill switch works properly.

that

the

throttle

grip

rotates

@ This may seem obvious, but check that you have enough fuel to complete your journey. If you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the cause immediately. @ Ensure you use the correct grade, unleaded or leaded fuel - see Chapter 4 Specifications.

o-14 Daily (pre-ride) checks 7 Tire checks Tire care:

Tire tread depth:

The correct pressures:

@ Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tires is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected. @ Check the valve rubber for signs of damage or deterioration and have it replaced if necessary. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, install a new one made of metal or hard plastic. @ Pick out any stones or nails which may have become embedded in the tire tread. If left, they will eventually penetrate through the casing and cause a puncture. @ If tire damage is apparent, or unexplained loss of pressure is experienced, seek the advice of a tire fitting specialist without delay.

@ At the time of writing, UK law requires that tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of

@ The tires must be checked when cold, not immediately after riding. Note that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off. High tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling. @ Use an accurate pressure gauge. @ Proper air pressure will increase tire life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort.

Check the tire pressures with a pressure gauge

the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches. Many riders, however, consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a

safer limit. @ Many tires now incorporate wear indicators in the tread. Identify the triangular pointer on the tire sidewall to locate the indicator bar and replace the tire if the tread has worn down to the bar. Tire tread depth

|Front

|

4.5 mm (0.06 in) 2.0 mm (0.08 in)

Measure tread depth at the centre of the tire using a depth gauge

fo

36 psi (2.5 Bars) 42 psi (2.9 Bars)

Use the pointer (arrowed) on the sidewall to locate the tread wear indicator bars

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents Air filter element - change IBYVARSTNZ OLNEOLS cid.clot RAG ee ree ee a ee ene 5 Brake and clotch fluid- change ........ccccsccusesvacscnces 27 Brake light switch - check and adjustment .................... 19 Blake Dads iChloCk@errnan wean n wis at wihice cet ee cit S ae ae ke 4 BCIKerSY StCMMEICHOC ma remanne tant atu cei et cnet ond en rhe 19 Carburetor synchronization - check and adjustment ............ 14 er eA a ae 8 eR “ASALCN]) C010 Siow 3)Siti 16 res fms WoolInGisVStemmrChoCkammnnie ea, Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling ................ 31 Cy iNCemCoOMmpressiom=ChECKa sms a.teeie aye uciesctaraltee orein cis 28 Drive chain - check, adjustment and lubrication ................ Drive chain slider - check Engine oil/filter - change EVAP and PAIR system hoses - check (California models only)... . EXAaustesVSLOMmiCHOCKamrce ar train wee or tie 8 a. vetouiomuena nian Fasteners - tightness check Fluid levels - check

1

Fuelisystem'= check and filter cleaning.............9...+.+:+ Headlight aim - check and adjustment ....................... Idleispeed'= check:and adjustment ....2. 24.0.0 see ese

Lubrication; general Revs. sare Sidestand switch - operation check

ate

ca

ee

eves

Spark plugs - check and adjustment (G through P UK models, Githrough ViUSimodelS) aaqeeeneraci cee re ee eee eee Spark plugs - check and adjustment (R through V UK models) .. . . Spark plugs - replacement (G through P UK models, G through V US models) Spark plugs - replacement (R through V UK models) Steering head bearings - check and adjustment SUSPENSION =CHECK eas roca tence pice ee ER aE Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check and ACIUSTMENT yc cso 1s enc + ce andines reas Guat Gebence a raieN awe s Valve clearances - check and adjustment (G through K models) .. . Valve clearances - check and adjustment (L models onward) Wheels‘anditires=checkte vacreioe eine ects Seen eer ee

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

EN SS

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

. N “~

ww

suitable for competent SS DIY mechanic

x

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Specifications Engine Cylinder identification No. 1

No. 4 Spark plugs

Left rear cylinder Left front cylinder Right rear cylinder Right front cylinder

Type G through K models

Standard Cold climates - below 5°C (41°F) L through P models Standard For extended high-speed riding UK R through V models Standard For extended high-speed riding US R through V models Standard Cold climates - below 5°C (41°F) Electrode gap (all models) Valve clearances (COLD engine) G through K models Intake Exhaust L models onward Intake Exhaust

NGK DPR9EA-9 or ND X27EPR-U9 NGK DPR8EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9

NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9 NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9 NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9 NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9

NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9 NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9 0.8 to 0.9 mm (0.031 to 0.035 in) 0.13 mm (0.005 in) 0.20 mm (0.007 in)

0.16 + 0.03 mm (0.006 + 0.001 in) 0.25 + 0.03 mm (0.010 + 0.001 in)

x XS “

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

1eo Maintenance & servicing Engine (continued) Engine idle speed California models US models (except California) G through K models Mentaigelelavie danee(\cto memmtaramne cnn ma Tune A. 0.0 Ot yniot Olga aco t R through V models UK models G through K models Enigieutelmie (ioc ctaanunesecne aad bono on mooebaooe R through V models Cylinder compression pressures Carburetor synchronization Maximum vacuum difference between any two cylinders .........

1200 + 100 rpm 1200 + 100 rpm 1000 + 100 rpm 1100 + 100 rpm 1000 + 100 rpm 1200 + 100 rpm 1000 + 100 rom 199 + 28 psi (14.0 + 2.0 Bars) 20 mm Hg

Miscellaneous Brake: padiminimeUmithiCKMOSS

ac omic sielsieiecietteimia letatocornete siecle):

Battery specific gravity (G though K models) ..............0000 00s Freeplay adjustments TIMHOUUSIONDirectors cucterneet tec: state wtalarvAGrearers entveracortices CHOKE 16Veliea cd etree tasks perntennl wiacaer cate Relat annwer a cherestan Gare gh Drive chain Minimum tire tread depth* ElOMUarperieiseat ie Ree ctatiair a torn inet yeturtetnac rsvce ete clasccscier enebya vane rtc

see text 1.280 2 to 6 mm (0.08 to 0.24 in) 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 in) 15 to 25 mm (0.6 to 1.0 in)

1.5 mm (0.06 in) 2.0 mm (0.08 in)

36 psi (2.5 Bars) 42 psi (2.9 Bars) *In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches. MOM: ROAM

oycroGloenes sien Keen S Midis owen ce Dom pOeene TICE creole oie en Tantei teense tonstetetatcesint nie stanei eycveranan tony amt checareeaecn eerA

Torque settings Engine oil pan drain plug G through P models R through V models Ollititer(usingitondarservice tool) ements artes erties Spark plugs GithrolighiKomodelss se merecen west octets mr emer L models onward

Nm

Ft-ibs

38 30 10

27 22 7

14 12 23

11 9 16

Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine/transmission oil Type Viscosity Capacity (approximate) With filter change

@ilichange:onlyre aes: cs. After engine rebuild G through P models

API grade SF or SG

SAE 10W40

wrsern eee whee

recreate

rere et

R through V models

Coolant Mixture type Capacity Radiator and engine COolanUKESENVOIn a cicicns, oh orcs See Re a eee BrakeranarClutch tities. siarce savoir lene ten cde eet eee eee me

3.1 lit (3.3 US gt, 5.4 Imp pts) 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.2 Imp pts) 4.0 lit (4.3 US qt, 7.0 Imp pts) 3.8 lit (4.0 US gt, 6.6 Imp pts) 50% distilled water, 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze

2.3 lit (2.4 US qt, 4.0 Imp pts) 0.33 lit (0.35 US qt, 0.6 Imp pts)

DOT 4

Miscellaneous Drive chain

Wheeclibearingsr tis 9.0 hier... satare oeadwapheralets tecon ein aie ee Swingarm pivot bearings Suspension linkage bearings SHOCKMabsonoen MOUNLNG beannGSser creiae ie cients east rene ees Cables and lever pivots DIGSSTANC. Comer SLANG PIVOLS ar-rarierercret ieee nee ever etic eee Brake pedal/shittilover; pivots: a.s,6. acree eee mt eee me Throttle grip

SAE 80 to 90W gear oil Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Molybdenum disulphide grease Molybdenum disulphide grease Molybdenum disulphide grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil Medium-weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

Maintenance schedule

+3

Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined at the beginning of this Manual covers the checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily

basis. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the

shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner’s manual may have different intervals for your model.

Daily or before riding (_] See ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this manual

After the initial 600 miles (1000 km) Note: This check is usually performed by a Honda dealer after the first 600 miles from new. Thereafter maintenance is carried out according to the following intervals of the schedule.

Every 500 miles (800 km) [_} Check, adjust and lubricate the drive chain (Section 1)

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months (whichever comes sooner) |_] Check and adjust the spark plugs - G through P UK and US models” (Section 2) L] Check and adjust the spark plugs - R through V US models (Section 2) [_] Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 3) |_] Check the brake pads for wear (Section 4)

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months (whichever comes sooner) (continued) Check and adjust the throttle and choke cables (Section 13) Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization (Section 14) Check the condition of the EVAP and PAIR system hoses - California models only (Section 15) |_] Check the cooling system hoses (Section 16) Check the drive chain slider (Section 17) Check the condition of the exhaust system (Section 18) Check and adjust the brake light switch (Section 19) Check the condition of the wheels and tires (Section 20) Check and adjust the headlight aim (Section 21) Check the operation of the sidestand switch (Section 22) Check the operation of the front and rear suspension (Section 23) Check and adjust the steering head bearings (Section 24) Check the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fasteners (Section 25)

[] Check the battery (Section 5) [_] Lubricate the clutch and shift/brake lever pivots and the sidestand/centerstand pivots (Section 6) *On G through K models, this operation is specified only after the initial 4000 miles (6000 km). After this it only needs to be performed every 8000 miles (12,000 km).

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months (whichever comes sooner) [] Replace the engine oil and filter (Section 7) [-] Check the clutch hydraulic system (Section 8) |] Replace the spark plugs - G through P UK and US models (Section 9) a Replace the spark plugs - R through V US models (Section 9) [] Check and adjust the spark plugs - R through V UK models (Section 10) [-] Check and adjust the valve clearances - G through K models only (Section 11) [] Check the fuel system hoses and tap filter (Section 12)

Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) or 18 months (whichever comes first) [_] Replace the air filter element (Section 26) |_| Change the brake and clutch fluid (Section 27) Check the cylinder compression (Section 28)

Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or two years (whichever comes sooner) | |Check and adjust the valve clearances - L models onward (Section 29) | | Replace the spark plugs - R through V UK models (Section 30)

Every 24,000 miles (86,000 km) or two years (whichever comes sooner) |_] Check the cooling system and replace the coolant (Section 31)

1a Componentiocations 14 Component locations

Component locations on right side 1 Rear brake fluid reservoir

5 Throttle cable upper adjusters

2 Battery 3 Air filter

6 Coolant reservoir - L models onward

4 Front brake fluid reservoir

7 Engine oil drain plug

8 Engine oil filler cap

9 Engine oil dipstick 10 Rear brake light switch

EE

tee

ee

Component locations ee

Component locations on left side

Steering head bearings Clutch fluid reservoir Spark plugs and valves Coolant reservoir - G through K models A ®©PhYOm

5 6 7

Fuel filter Drive chain Coolant drain bolt on water pump

8 Idle speed adjuster 9 Engine oil filter 10 Front fork seals

15

1e6 INtroduction This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your motorcycle. Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain detailed procedures for

carrying

out

the

items

listed

on

the

maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance information designed to increase reliability. Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here as a comprehensive check list. For the rider who does all his/her own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be done on a routine basis. Maintenance information is printed on decals attached to the motorcycle. If the

information on the decals differs from that included here, use the information on the decal. Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pickup routine maintenance as it coincides with

the next mileage or calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some _ additional procedures to ensure that nothing important

is overlooked. If you have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used machine and have no knowledge of its history or maintenance

record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule prescribed. The Sections which outline the inspection and maintenance procedures are written as step-by-step comprehensive guides to the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the routine inspections and maintenance procedures on the check list. References to additional information in applicable Chapters is also included and should not be overlooked. Before beginning any maintenance or repair,

the

machine

should

be

cleaned

thoroughly, especially around the oil filter, spark plugs, cylinder head cover, side covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine and will allow you to detect wear and damage that could otherwise easily go unnoticed.

Every 500 miles (800 km) 1

Drive chain - check, adjustment and lubrication

lubrication has been neglected, corrosion and galling may cause the links to bind and kink, which effectively shortens the chain’s length. 4 If the chain is tight between the sprockets, rusty or kinked, it’s time to replace it with a new one. Note: Repeat the chain slack measurement along the length of the chain ideally, every inch or so. If you find a tight area, mark it with felt pen or paint, and repeat the measurement after the bike has been

Mii

Check 1 A neglected drive chain won’t last long and can quickly damage the sprockets. Routine chain adjustment and lubrication isn’t difficult and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket life. 2 To check the chain, shift the transmission into neutral and place the bike on its centerstand. Where no centerstand is fitted, support the bike in an upright position, ideally with the rear wheel clear of the ground. Make sure the ignition switch is off. 3 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and measure the slack midway between the two

sprockets, then compare your measurements to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see illustration). As wear occurs, the chain will actually stretch,

ridden. If the chain’s still tight in the same area, it may be damaged or worn. Because a tight or kinked chain can damage the transmission countershaft bearing, it’s a good idea to replace it.

Caution: If the machine is ridden with more than 40 mm (1.6 in) of slack in the drive chain, the chain will contact the frame and swingarm, causing severe damage.

5 Check the entire length of the chain for damaged rollers, loose links and pins and replace it if damage is found. Note: Never

necessitating adjustment to take up some slack from the chain. In some cases where

install a new chain on old sprockets, and never

use the old chain if you install new sprockets replace the chain and sprockets as a set. 6 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Chapter 6). Check the teeth on the engine sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket for wear (see illustration).

Adjustment G through K models 7 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain is positioned with the tightest point at the center of its bottom run. 8 Slacken the rear axle nut and the locknut on each chain adjuster. 9 Turn the axle adjusting nuts on both sides of the swingarm until the proper chain tension is obtained (get the adjuster on the chain side close, then set the adjuster on the opposite side). Be sure to turn the adjusting nuts evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment in accordance with the marks on the plates. If the adjusting nuts reach the end of their

DIRECTION OF ROTATION

ENGINE SPROCKET WORN TOOTH

REAR SPROCKET WORN TOOTH 0618H

1.3 Checking drive chain slack (H model shown)

1.6 Check the sprockets in the areas indicated to see if they are worn excessively

Every 500 miles (800 km)

Ne

:

1¢7

—

1

7


9 —_¢=

11—e>

>I 6

i=

7—~o

19-2)

13

6

13

6

2

10—©

14

4—~@p

11—~=

12—9

.

Lows

Me

|

a

129}

8 |

H27385

RIGHT FORK

LEFT FORK 7.4 Exploded view of the front forks - G through K models

1

2

Snap-ring

Pre-load adjuster

8

Dust seal

15 Fork spring

23 Snap-ring

"Cruciform spacer

9

Oil seal retaining

16 Piston rings

24 Fork slider

fitted to G models only,

snap-ring

Damper rod Allen bolt

3

Top cap

17 Damper rod

25

4 5

O-ring Spacerseat(GandH

10 Oil seal 11 Washer

718 Snap-ring 19 Rebound spring

26 Anti-dive assembly 27 Anti-dive adjuster

6

only) Spacer*

12 Top bushing 13 Fork tube

20 Lock valve spring seat 21 Lock valve spring

28 Anti-dive check valve 29 Oil drain screw

7

Spacer/spring seat

14 Bottom bushing

22 Lock valve

30 Damper rod valve

all others have a

tubular spacer.

6e8 Frame, suspension and final drive d) Remove the piston and stopper rubber from the cover; remove and discard the piston’s sealing O-ring. Withdraw the

7.7 Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to free the dust seal

7.14 Inspect the damper rod piston ring(s)

6 Invert the fork over a suitable container and pump the tube vigorously to expel as much fork oil as possible. 7 Pry out the dust seal from the slider’s upper end to reach the oil seal retaining snap-ring (see illustration). 8 Carefully pry out the snap-ring whilst taking care not to scratch the surface of the tube. 9 Remove the damper rod Allen bolt and washer from the bottom of the slider. Note: /f necessary, temporarily fit the fork spring, spring seat(s), spacer and top cap to prevent

13 On the left fork slider, disassemble the anti-dive mechanism as follows: a) Pry off the retaining snap-ring and withdraw the shouldered collar and the rubber bushing from the anti-dive piston. b) Remove the rubber dust boot from the piston and cover. c) Unscrew the four Allen screws and withdraw the anti-dive assembly cover; remove and discard its sealing O-ring.

for signs of damage and replace if worn

12 On the left fork, pry out the retaining snap-ring and withdraw the damper rod valve, valve spring and spring seat from the tip of the damper rod. Pry out the remaining snap-ring, tip up the fork tube and remove the damper rod and rebound spring. Caution: Do not remove the piston rings from the damper rod unless they are to be replaced.

tube and spring. Caution: from the replaced

remove the damper rod and rebound

Do not remove the piston ring damper rod unless it is to be (see illustration).

L models onward 15 Unscrew the top cap from the fork tube (see illustrations). Top cap

O-ring Locknut Slotted collar Spring seat* Spacer* Spring seat Fork spring Dust seal SOANDAAWNH™ Oil seal retaining snap-ring Oil seal Washer Top bushing Fork tube

the damper rod from rotating. Failing this, insert a long wooden dowel (such as a thin broom handle) with a coarse taper ground on its tip into the fork tube and press it hard against the head of the damper rod to prevent it from rotating while the Allen bolt is finally unscrewed. 10 To separate the tube from the slider it will be necessary to displace the top bushing and oil seal. The bottom bushing should not pass through the top bushing, a fact which can be used to good effect. Push the tube gently in until it stops against the damper rod valve; take care not to do this forcibly (especially on the left fork) or the valve may be damaged. Pull the tube sharply outs until the bottom bushing strikes the top bushing. Repeat this operation until the top bushing and seal are tapped out of the slider. Pouring hot water over the slider’s upper end will cause the metal to expand, thus slackening the fit of the seal and bushing and minimizing the amount of force needed to complete this task. 11 With the tube removed, slide off the oil seal and washer, noting which way up the washer is fitted, followed by the top bushing. Caution: Do not remove the bottom bushing from the tube unless it is to be replaced.

spring from the slider. e) On Gand H models only, unscrew the small grub screw securing the adjuster knob, withdraw the knob from the front of the slider and extract the adjuster spindle from the rear of the slider (noting the spindle O-ring). f) On Gand H models only, unscrew the small screw from the bottom of the protrusion on the front of the left fork slider (note the sealing washer) and extract the check valve spring and ball. 14 On the right fork, withdraw the damper rod valve from the tip of the damper rod. Pry out the retaining snap-ring, tip up the fork

Bottom bushing Damper rod/piston assembly Rebound spring

Damper rod/piston assembly seat Fork tube protector R models onward Fork slider Damper rod Allen bolt Oil drain screw ‘Not fitted to N and P models.

7.15a

Exploded view of a front fork - L models onward

Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢9

os

7.15b

Unscrew the top cap from the tube...

16 Carefully clamp the fork slider in the vise and slide the fork tube down into the slider a little way (wrap a rag around the spring and the top of the tube to minimize oil spillage) while, with the aid of an assistant if necessary, keeping the top cap and damper rod fully extended. Counter-holding the locknut immediately under the top cap with one wrench,

unscrew

the top cap with another

(see illustration). 17 Remove the slotted spring collar by holding down the fork spring (keep the damper rod fully extended) while the collar is slipped out to the side. Caution: The fork spring may be exerting considerable pressure, making this a potentially dangerous operation. Wipe off as much oil as possible to minimize the risk of your hands slipping on oily components and enlist the aid of an assistant. Keep the restraint on the fork spring and remove the spring seat, with the spacer and second spring seat,

according to model. Slowly release the fork spring until all pressure has been relieved, then withdraw the spring from

the tube. 18 Invert the fork over a suitable container and pump the damper rod piston vigorously to expel as much fork oil as possible. 19 On R models onward, remove the fork tube protector from the slider’s upper end. On all models, pry out the dust seal from the

7.21 Lock the damper rod as described in the text to unscrew the Allen bolt from the bottom of the slider

7.16 ... then counter-hold the locknut underneath with one wrench while the top cap is unscrewed from the damper rod with another

slider’s upper end to reach the oil seal retaining snap-ring. 20 Carefully pry out the snap-ring whilst taking care not to scratch the surface of the tube (see illustration). 21 Remove the damper rod/piston assembly Allen bolt and washer from the bottom of the slider and withdraw the damper rod/piston assembly from the fork tube (see illustration).

Note: /f necessary, temporarily fit the fork spring, spring seat, spacer and top cap to prevent the damper rod/piston assembly from rotating. 22 Separate the fork tube and slider as described above in Step 10 (see illustration). 23 With the tube removed, slide off the oil seal and washer, noting which way up the washer is fitted, followed by the top bushing, then invert the slider and tip out the damper rod/piston assembly seat. Caution: Do not remove the bottom bushing from the tube unless it is to be replaced.

Inspection 24 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air, if available.

25 Check the fork tube and slider, the bushings and the damper _ rod/piston assembly (as applicable) for score marks, scratches,

flaking

of

the

chrome

and

7.22 These parts will come out with the fork tube 1 2

Oil seal Washer

3

Top bushing

4

Bottom bushing

7.20 Take care not to scratch the tube when prying the snap-ring out of the slider

excessive or abnormal wear. Look for dents in the tubes and replace them if any are found. If either bushing is worn so badly that the copper

base

metal

appears

through

the

Teflon coating over more than 3/4 of the bushing’s surface area, that bushing must be replaced. Check the fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and scratches. If damage is evident, leaks will occur. Replace worn or defective parts with new ones. 26 Have the fork tube checked for runout at a dealer service department or other repair shop.

ZN

Warning: If it is bent, it should not be straightened; replace it with a new one.

27 Measure the overall length of the spring and check it for cracks and other damage. Compare the length to the service length listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s defective or sagged, replace both fork springs with new ones. Never replace only one spring. 28 If it’s necessary to replace the bottom bushing, pry it apart at the slit and slide it off. Make sure the new one seats properly (see illustration). 29 On G through K models, check the fit of the front left brake caliper mounting bracket bolt and pivot collar in the needle bearing set in the rear of the left fork slider. No freeplay or other sign of wear or damage should be found; replace any of these components that

7.28 Pry the ends of the bottom bushing apart with a screwdriver and remove it

from the fork tube

6e10 Frame, suspension and final drive Se eee eee—"ee8n EEE — warrants

it. If the needle

bearing

is to be

applications to the piston recess, the

replaced proceed as described in Section 11 of this Chapter.

rubber bushing and to the shouldered

30 Also on G through K models, clean and inspect all elements of the anti-dive assembly; check particularly the adjuster spindle (where fitted), replacing it if it is worn or damaged. Replace the sealing O-rings and the rubber

the collar so that its shoulder is on the inside of the piston, nearest the wheel) and secure them by fitting the snap-ring. g) Check the operation of the assembly by inserting the anti-dive piston bolt and pushing the piston in, then releasing it; the piston should move in smoothly and return fully under spring pressure. Measure its stroke; there should be 1.6 mm (0.063 inch) between the fully-out and the fully-in positions. 32 Install the piston ring(s) and rebound spring on the damper rod and slide it into place in the tube so that it projects fully from the bottom of the tube. Pass a long wooden dowel (such as a thin broom handle) with a coarse taper ground on its tip, or the fork

stopper,

bushing

and dust boot whenever

they are disturbed. Blow clear the damping oil passages in the slider and anti-dive cover (do

not probe them with bits of wire); if a passage is severely blocked, use a blast of WD-40 or similar water dispersant/penetrating lubricant applied through the thin plastic pipe usually supplied with such aerosols to dislodge the obstruction. Reassemble temporarily the components and check the piston stroke (see Step 31g below); if the stroke is incorrect, check carefully the condition of the piston and

collar. Install these to the piston (install

its rubber stopper, sealing O-ring and spring,

spring and spacer, down the tube to hold the

or of its rubber bush, shouldered collar and the piston bolt. If there is any doubt about the condition of any of these, they must be replaced.

damper rod in place. 33 On the left fork, install the upper snap-ring to the damper rod’s lower end, followed by the spring seat and valve spring, the lock valve (projecting flange at the bottom) and the remaining snap-ring. 34 On the right fork, install the snap-ring to the damper rod’s lower end, followed by the damper rod valve (projecting flange at the bottom). 35 Oil the tube and bottom bushing and support the assembly horizontally with the damper rod components securely held; use grease to stick them in place if they are loose. Pass the slider over the tube and fit the damper rod Allen bolt using a new sealing

Reassembly G through K models 31 On the left fork slider, assemble the antidive mechanism as follows: a) On Gand H models only, insert the check valve ball and spring into the passage in the bottom of the protrusion on the front of the left fork slider, fit a new sealing washer to the retaining screw and install the screw, applying thread-locking compound to its threads and tightening it securely.

b) On Gand H models only, fit a new sealing O-ring to the adjuster spindle, lubricate

the spindle and O-ring with clean fork oil and insert them from the rear of the slider. Fit the adjuster knob to the spindle at the front of the slider and fasten the knob by installing and tightening its grub screw.

Check that the knob rotates smoothly through its full range, then set the adjustment to the setting required (see Section 12, if necessary). c) Install the spring to the slider. Fit a new sealing O-ring to the piston, lubricate it

with clean fork oil and insert the assembly into the cover. Install a new rubber stopper.

d) Locate a new sealing O-ring in the cover groove, then install the anti-dive assembly cover, ensuring that the spring engages correctly with the piston and that the rubber stopper is not displaced. Apply thread-locking compound to their threads and tighten securely the four Allen screws. e) Install a new rubber dust boot to the piston and cover.

f) Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease, or silicone grease designed for high-temperature brake

washer. Apply thread locking compound

to

the threads of the bolt and tighten it to the specified torque setting. 36 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape around the top of the fork tube to cover its edges and grooves, push the tube fully into the slider, then oil the top bushing and slide it down over the tube. 37 Press the top bushing squarely into its recess in the slider as far as possible by hand, then install the washer making sure that its chamfered surface is facing the top bushing. It will be necessary to use the Honda service tool or to devise an alternative tubular drift to tap the top bushing fully into place. The best method is to use a length of tubing slightly larger in diameter than the tube, that will bear squarely on the bushing’s washer (wrap adhesive tape over the tubing ends to protect the bushing). Tap the bushing home using the tube as a form of slide hammer. Take care not to scratch the tube during this operation; it is best to make sure that the fork tube is pushed fully into the slider so that any accidental scoring is confined to the area above the seal. 38 When the bushing is seated fully and

and slide it over the tube so that the seal’s marked surface is facing up (away from the slider). 39 Place a large plain washer against the oil seal and drive it into place as described in Step 37 above until the snap-ring groove is just visible above the seal’s upper edge. Once the oil seal is correctly seated fit the snap-ring (having removed the large plain washer), ensuring that it is correctly located in its

groove. 40 Lubricate the lips of the dust seal then slide it down the fork tube and press it into position. 41 Fill the fork with the specified amount and

type of fork oil and pump the fork slowly to distribute the oil. Compress the assembly fully and check the oil level. Add or subtract oil, as necessary, until it is at the level given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. 42 Clamp the tube securely in a vise equipped with soft jaws, taking care not to overtighten it or score its surface. Remove the tape from its upper end. 43 Insert the fork spring, ensuring that its tapered end is at the bottom. 44 Insert the spacer/spring seat and spacer, followed by the spacer upper seat (G and H models only); note that the spacer seats (where appropriate) are fitted with their cupped faces against the spacer. Fit a new O-ring to the top cap, then install the top cap. Note: The top cap can be tightened to its specified torque setting at this stage if the

tube can be held firmly enough, but do not risk distorting the tube by overtightening it. A better method is to tighten the top cap when the fork has been reinstalled and is securely held in the triple clamps. 45 Install the forks as described in Section 6.

L models onward 46 Install the rebound spring to the damper rod/piston assembly, tighter-pitched coils against the assembly’s flange (see illustration). If the locknut was removed from the top of the damper rod/piston assembly, it must be screwed back on, its chamfered edge down, to the bottom of the thread (i.e., tightened fully onto the rod) (see illustration

7.53b).

squarely in its recess in the slider, so that the

washer sits flat on the floor of the oil seal’s recess (remove the washer to check, wipe the recess clean, then reinstall the washer), install the oil seal. Smear the seal’s lips with grease

Sena

eas

“y

ie

7.46 Install the rebound spring to the damper rod/piston assembly so that its tighter-pitched coils are against the flange

Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢11

7.47 Insert the damper rod/piston assembly down through the fork tube and fit the damper rod seat 47 Insert the damper rod/piston assembly into the fork tube and slide it into place so that it projects fully from the bottom of the tube, then install the damper rod/piston assembly seat (see illustration). Pass the fork spring down the tube to hold the damper rod/piston assembly in place. 48 Oil the fork tube and bottom bushing and insert the assembly into position in the fork slider, securing it by fastening the damper rod/piston assembly Allen bolt as described in Step 35 above (see illustrations). 49 Install the top bushing, washer, oil seal, snap-ring and dust seal as described above in

7.48c

7.49c

... tighten the bolt to the specified torque setting

Using a piece of metal tubing as a

form of slide hammer to tap the fork seal into place

7.48a

Carefully ease the slider over the end of the fork tube assembly

Steps 36 through 40 (see illustrations). On R models onward, install the fork tube protector,

aligning its locating lug in the slot in the slider’s upper edge; soaking the protector in hot water will soften it and ease installation, if required. 50 Slowly pour in the specified amount and type of fork oil whilst pushing the damper rod piston up and down. Once the oil has been added, slowly pump the fork tube in and out at least five times, and pump the damper rod piston at least another 10 times. This will

ensure that the fork oil is evenly distributed. Fully insert both the tube and damper rod

7.48b Apply thread locking compound to damper rod Allen bolt threads before installation... then check the fork oil level (see illustration). Add or subtract fork oil until the oil is at the specified level listed in the Specifications

Section of this Chapter. 51 Clamp the slider securely in a vise and fully extend the damper rod. Tie a piece of wire around the rod; the wire can then be used to hold the rod in the extended position whilst the slotted collar is installed. 52 Insert the fork spring, ensuring that its tapered end/tighter-pitched coils (according to model) is/are at the bottom, followed by the spring seat and, according to model, the spacer and spacer upper seat (see

7.49b Slide the seal onto the tube making sure its marked surface is facing up - note

7.49a Lubricate the top bushing and washer and slide them onto the tube; make sure washer is fitted the correct way around

tape protecting seal lips from tube’s sharp edges

7.49d Secure the seal in place with the snap-ring then slide the dust seal into position

7.50 Fill the fork with the specified type and amount of fork oil then check the oil level as described in text

6°12

Frame, suspension and final drive

>

¥

bs

;

eS

4

|

7.52a Install the fork spring making sure its tapered end and/or tighter-pitched coils are at the bottom

D2

mere . followed by the spacer (where fitted)...

i 7.52d

7.53a Slotted collar can be slid into position under top cap locknut...

...and the spacer upper seat

(where fitted) illustrations). Fit a new O-ring and lubricate it with a smear of 53 With the aid of an assistant the spring seat/spacer compressing the fork spring,

7.53b ... which must be installed with its chamfered edge down and must be tightened to the bottom of the thread, fully on to the rod

to the top cap fork oil. push down on upper _ seat, and slide the

2 Remove the ignition switch, if required; at least disconnect its wiring as described in Chapter 9. 3 On J and K models, undo the two screws

and withdraw the top triple clamp cover. On all other models, pry off the cap from the steering stem top nut. Unscrew the nut and lift off the top triple clamp (see illustration).

slotted collar into position under the locknut

(see illustrations). Screw the top cap fully on to the rod then counter-hold the locknut while

the top cap is tightened to its specified torque setting against the locknut. Check that all components are correctly seated.

54 Carefully screw the top cap into the fork tube making sure it is not cross-threaded. Note:

The top cap can be tightened to its

specified torque setting at this stage if the tube can be held firmly enough, but do not risk distorting the tube by overtightening it. A better method is to tighten the top cap when the fork has been reinstalled and is securely

CLAMP

ADJUSTER NUT UPPER BEARING OUTER RACE

——> SS== —.

DUST SEAL

@ “*—__ UPPER BEARING —

INNER RACE UPPER BEARING

held in the triple clamps.

55

8

Install the forks as described in Section 6.

LOWER BEARING OUTER RACE

Steering stem removal and installation

~

3046 0134 0281 0910 2053

0326

0121

BSA A50 & AGSTwins (62 - 73) CHINESE, Taiwanese & Korean Scooters Chinese, Taiwanese & Korean 125c motorcyles

0155 4768 4781 Pulse/Pioneer Adrenaline, Sinnis Apache, Superbyke RMR(07-14) O@ 5750

Honda Gold Wing 1500 (USA) (88— 00)_

KMX125 & 200 (86 — 02) 250, 350 & 400 Triples (72 — 79) 400 & 440 Twins (74-81) 400, 500 & 550 Fours (79 - 91) EN450 .& 500 Twins (LtdVulcan) (85 - 07)

Kawasaki ER-6F & ER-6N (06 -10)

4874

Kawasaki EX500 (GPZ500S)&ER500 (ER-5) (87 — 08) Kawasaki 2X600 (22Z-R600 & Ninja ZX-6) (90— 06) Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Fours (95 - 02) Kawasaki ZX-6R (03 — 06)

Kawasaki ZX600 (GPZ600R, GPX6OOR, Ninja 600R & RX) &

Book No

YAMAHA D150 & 80 Trail Bikes (78 - 95)

0669

Honda Gold Wing 1200 (USA) (64 - 87)

Title

0309

+ @ %

BSA Pre-unit Singles (64-61)

Ducali Mk il& Desmo singles (69-76) Ducati 748, 916 & 996 4-valve V-twins (94 - 01)

BookNo

Honda GL1000 Gold Wing (75— 79)

4

BSA A7 & A10 Twins (47 ~ 62)

DUCATI 600, 620, 750 && 900 2-valve V-twins (91 — 05)

Title

©

Yamaha T50 & 80 Townmate (83 - 95)

©

XT & R125 (82 - 03) YBR125 & XT125A/X (05 — 13) YZF-R125 (08 — 11) Trail Bikes (81 - 03) 2-stroke Motocross Bikes (86 — 06)

Yamaha 250 & 350 Twins (70 - 79)

4 @ @

2146 3451 4742

Yamaha XS250, 360 & 400 sohe Twins (75 ~ 84) Yamaha RD250 & 350LC Twins (80 - 82) Yamaha RD350 YPVS Twins (83- 95)

0378 0803 1158

4

1780

© 4

0445 3756

Kawasaki 650 Four (76- 78 Kawasaki Vulcan 700/750 & 800 (85-04) _

4

0373 2457

4163

Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 & 1600 (87 — 08)

¢

4913

Yamaha XT660 & MT-03 (04-11)

0574

Yamaha XJ6008 (Diversion, Seca ll) &XJGOON Fours (92-03)

%

2534

Kawasaki 750 Air-cooled Fours

Harley-Davidson Shovelhead & Evolution Big Twins (70 -99)

@

2536

Kawasaki 2R550 & 750 Zephyr Fours (90—97)

: 3382

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88, 96 & 103 models (99 - 10). HONDA NB, ND,NP& NS5O Melody (81 -85)

4 >

2478 0622

Kawasaki 2750 & 21000 (03-08) Kawasaki ZX750 (Ninja ZX-7 & ZXR750) Fours (89—96)

4762 ; 2054

Honda NE/NBSO Vision & SA50 Vision Met-in (85-95)

©1278

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-7R & ZX-9R (94-04

¢

1021 4797 5543 2350 2662

2689

3290

HARLEY-DAVIDSON Sportsters (70 — 10)

©

0040

@

GILERA Runner, DNA, Ice & SKP/Stalker (97— 11)

0887 1655 0464

Yamaha YZ & WR 4-stroke Motorcross Bikes (98 — 08)

2052

ZX750 (GPX7SOR, Ninja 750R) (85 — 97)

© © © +

+

0474

0331

Yamaha RD.& DT125LC (82-87) _ Yamaha TZR125 (87 — 93) & DT125R (88- 07)_ Yamaha TY50, 80, 125 & 175 (74 = 84)

Yamaha Yamaha Yamaha Yamaha Yamaha

0800

© 1247

Yamaha RD400 Twin (75 — 79)

0333

Yamaha XT, TT & SR500 Singles (75 — 83)

0342

Yamaha X2550 Vision V-Twins (82 - 85) Yamaha FJ, FX, XY & YX600 Radian (84 — 92)

0821 2100 ; 4910

2145

Yamaha XJ6 & FZ6R (09- 15)

5889

Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat & FZS600 Fazer (96—03) Yamaha FZ-6 Fazer (04 — 08)

; 3702 4 4751

3721

Yamaha YZF-R6 (99 - 02)

4

3900

0222

Yamaha YZF-R6 (03 —05)

+

4601

1681

Yamaha YZF-R6 (06 - 13)

¢

5544

Honda MB, MBX, MT & MTX50 (80 - 93)

0731

Kawasaki 900 & 1000 Fours (73 ~ 77)

Honda C50, C70 & C90 (67 - 03)

0324

Kawasaki ZX900, 1000 & 1100 Liguid-cooled Fours (83-97)

Honda XR50/70/80/10OR & CRF50/70/80/1 OOF (85 - 07)

2218

Kawasaki ZX-10R (04 - 10)

4

5542

Yamaha 650 Twins (70 - 83)

Honda XL/XR 80, 100, 125, 185 & 200 2-valve models (78 - 87)

0566

KTM EXC Enduro & SX Motocross (00 - 07)_

@

4629

Yamaha XJ650 & 750 Fours (80 — 84)

0738

0340 3450

_

0341

Honda H100 & H100S Singles (80 — 92) Honda 125 Scooters (00 - 09)_

©

0734 4873

LAMBRETTA Scooters (68-00) MOTO GUZZI 750, 850 & 1000 V-Twins (74 - 78)

@

5573 0339

Yamaha XS750 & 850 Triples (76 - 85) Yamaha TDM850, TRX860.& XTZ750 (89 - 99)

Honda ANF126 Innova Scooters (03 -12)

¢

4926

MZ ETZ models (81 —

©

1680

Yamaha YZF750R & YZFIOOOR Thunderace (93 - 00)

Honda CB/CO125T & CM125C Twins (77 — 88

>

0571

NORTON 500, 600, 650 & 750 Twins (57 - 70)

0187

Yamaha FZR600, 750 & 1000 Fours (87 — 96)

Honda Honda Honda Honda

4 > ©

5540 0433 3056 4620

Norton Commando (68—77) 0125 PEUGEOT Speecfight, 1aee & Vivacity Scooters (96—08) 3920 Peugeot V-Clic, Speedfight3,Vivacity3,Kishee & Tweet (08-14) O@ 5751 PIAGGIO (Vespa) Scooters (91 — 09) © 3492

Yamaha Yamaha Yamaha Yamaha

@ ©

5919 1132 4899

SUZUKI GT, ZR & TS50 (77 - 90) Suzuki TSSOX (84 - 00 Suzuki 100, 125, 185 & 250 Air-cooled Trail bikes (79 - 89)

Yamaha YZF-R1 (98 — 03) Yamaha YZF-Rt (04-06) Yamaha FZS1000 Fazer (01 - 05)

0572

Honda CMX250 Rebel & CB250 Nighthawk Twins (85 — 09) Honda XL/XR 250 & 500 (78 - 84) Honda XR250L, XR250R & XR4OOR (86 — 04)

©

2756 0567 2219

Honda CB250 & CB400N Super Dreams (78 - 84) Honda CR Motocross Bikes (86 — 07)_

©

CBF125 (09 — 14) CG125 (76 - 07) NS125 (86 — 93) CBR125R (04 — 10)

Honda CBR125R, CBR250R & CRF250L/M (11 — 14) Honda MBX/MTX125 & MTX200 (83 — 93) Honda XL125V & VT125C (99 - 11) Honda CD/CM185 2007 & CM250C 2-valve Twins (77-85).

Honda CRF250 & CRF450 (02 — 06) Honda CBR400RR Fours (88 — 99) Honda VFR400 (NC30) & RVF400 (NC35) V-Fours (89-98)

Honda CB500 (93 - 02) & CBF500 (03 - 08)

Oe _—@

O¢ 4

3720

2056

XV (Virago) V-Twins (81 — 03) XVS650 & 1100 Drag Star/V-Star (97 — 05) XJ900F Fours (83 — 94 XJ9008 Diversion (94 — 01)

0802 @ 4195 4 3239 4 3739

© ©

0799 1599 0797

4 3754 ¢ 4605 #4287

Suzuki GP100 & 125 Singles (78 — 93)

©

0576

Suzuki GS, GN, GZ & DR125 Singlas (82 — 05) Suzuki Burgman 260 & 400 (98 — 11) Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (06 - 09)

> 0888 4 4909 4790

0540 2222

Suzuki 250 & 350 Twins (68—78) Suzuki GT250X7, GT200X5 & SB200 Twins (78—83)

©

0120 0469

ATVs Honda ATC 70, 90, 110, 185 & 200 (71 — on}

0565

2630

Suzuki DR-2400 (00 — 10)

%

2933

Honda Rancher, Recon & TRX250EX ATVs

2553

3552 3496

Suzuki GS/GSX250, 400 & 450 Twins (79 — 85) Suzuki GS500 Twin (89 — 08)

¢

0736 3238

Honda TRX300 Shaft Drive ATVs (88 — 00) Honda Foreman (95 — 11)

2125 2465

Yamaha FJ1100 & 1200 Fours (84 — 96)

4

2057

Yamaha FJR1300 (01 — 13) Yamaha XJR1200 & 1300 (95 — 06) Yamaha V-Max (85 — 03)

+ % @

5607 3981 4072

3753

Suzuki GS550 (77 — 82) & GS750 Fours (76 - 79)

0363

Honda TRX300EX, TRX400EX & TRX450R/ER ATVs (93 — 06)

2318

Honda CB400 & CBS50 Fours (73 - 77)

0262

Suzuki GS/GSX550 4-valve Fours (83 — 88)

1133

Kawasaki Bayou 220/250/300 & Prairie 300 ATVs (86- 03)

2351

Honda Honda Honda Honda Honda Honda Honda

0442 0940 2183 3919 5572 1730 2070

Suzuki SV650.& SV650S (99-08) Suzuki DL650 V-Strom & SFV650 Gladius (04 — 13) Suzuki GSX-R600 & 750 (96-00) Suzuki aeR600 (01 — 03), GSX-R750 (00-03) & GSX-R1000 __(01-02) Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (04 — 05) & GSX-R1000 (03 — 06) Suzuki GSF600, 650 & 1200 Bandit Fours (95 - 06)

4 4 4 ¢

3912 5643 3553 3986

4 ¢

4382 3367

Polaris ATVs(85— 97) 2302 Polaris ATVs (98 - 07) 2508 Suzuki/Kawasaki/Artic Cat ATVs (03 — 09) 2910 Yamaha YFS200 Blaster ATV (88 — 06) 2317 Yamaha YFM350 & YFM400 (ER &Big Bear) ATVs (87 — 09) 2126 Yamaha YFZ450 & YFZ450R (04 - 10) 2899 Yamaha Banshee and Warrior ATVs(87-10) = CCC

4

CX/GL500 & 650 V-Twins (78 — 86) CBX550 Four (82 — 86) XL600R & XRGOOR (83 - 08) XL600/650V Transalp & XAV750 Africa Twin (87-07) CB600 Hornet, CBFE00 & CBREQOF (07 - 12) CBR6OOF1 & 1000F Fours (87 — 96) CBR600F2 & F3 Fours (91 — 98)

Honda CBR600F4 (99 - 06)

Honda CB600F Hornet & CBF600 (98 — 06) Honda CBR60ORR (03 — 06) Honda CBR6OORR (07 -12)

©

95)

© > _ 4 ¢ 4 4

3911

Suzuki Intruder, Marauder, Volusia & Boulevard (85 — 09)

2618

Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly ATVs (93 — 05)

O¢

3915 4590

Suzuki GS850 Fours (78 - 88) Suzuki GS1000 Four (77 - 79)

0536 0484

ATV Basics SCOOTERS

2055

Twist and Go (automatic transmission) Scooters Service and

4

3987 0737 4083

Repair Manual TECHBOOK SERIES Motorcycle Basics Techbook (2" edition) Motorcycle Electrical Techbook 3“edition) ==

4795

Suzuki GSX-R750, GSX-R1 100 (85 - 92) GSX600F, GSX750F,

0665 3243 2312 5541

GSX1100F (Katana) Fours (88 —96) Suzuki GSX600/750F & GSX750 (98 — 02) Suzuki GS/GSX1000, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Fours (79 — 88) Suzuki TL1O00S/R & DL V-Strom (97 — 04)

Honda CB750 sohe Four (69-79)_

0131

Suzuki GSF650/1250 Bandit & GSX650/1 250F (07 - 14)

@

4798

Motorcycle Fuel Systems Techbook

3514

Honda V45/65 Sabre &Mag lagna (82 —88)

0820

Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa (99-14)

4

4184

Motorcycle Maintenance Techbook

4071

fe

Motorcycle Workshop Practice Techbook (2™ edition) ms ere

Honda Honda Honda Honda

CB650 sohe Fours (78 — 84) NTV600 Revere, NTV650 & NT650V Deauville (88-05) Shadow VT600 & 750 (USA) (88— 09)_ NT7O0V Deauville & XL7O0V Transalp (06-13)_

@

2567

10450

O@ 4

Honda VFR750 & 700 V-Fours (86-97)

4

2101

Suzuki GSX1400 (02 - 08)

Honda VFR800 V-Fours (97 - 01) Honda VFR800 V-Tec V-Fours (02 — 09)

4 e

3703 4196

TRIUMPH Tiger Cub & Terrier (52 - 68) Triumph 350 & 500 Unit Twins ( 8 - 73)

Honda CB750 & CB900 dohc Fours 7 Honda CBF1000 (06 -10) & CB1000R (08— 11) Honda VIR1000 Firestorm, Super Hawk & XL1O00V Varadero (97-08) _ _ Honda 261 CBROOORA Fireblade (92-99)

Honda CBRSOORR Fireblade (00-03)_

Honda CBR1OOORR Fireblade(04~ 07)

Honda CBRIQOORR Fireblade (08 — 13) (97- 07)_ Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird

Triumph Trlumph Triumph Triumph §=— Trump

Pre-Unit Twins (47-62)_ 650 & 750 2-valve Unit Twins (63-83)_ 675 (06-10) Tiger 800 (10 - 14). 1050 Sprint, Speed Triple & Tiger (05-13)

4 =

0535 4927 3744


__Every 7500 miles 1-17

¢

=

(nena

|

re

Rbk th =etee dt

Servicing, overhaul & repairs Engine and transmission Cooling system Fuel and ignition system Suspension and steering Braking system Electrical system

Colour sections @ Model history and Pre-ride checks @ Wiring diagrams # Tools and workshop tips

0396

Spanner ratings grade all tasks by experience level from simple servicing jobs for beginners through to more difficult tasks for the expert.

Haynes Hints and Tool Tips give you valuable ‘inside’ information such as ways of removing parts without using special tools.

Reference sections 18 page Tools and workshop tips Lubricants and fluids Conversion factors MOT test checks Storage Fault finding checklist and Fault finding equipment to pinpoint specific problems Technical terms explained FS SHH CF eeFully indexed to help you find information easily

“Do yourself a favour — find out more about your bike, keep it well

ISBN 978 1 78521 039 6

81785"21

Step-by-step instructions clearly linked to hundreds of photos and illustrations guide you through each job.

g

ee

maintained and save yourself a bundle of cash while you’re at it.” What Bike? “The reality is that without this Haynes manual | have no chance of rebuilding the bike.” Performance Bikes www.haynes.com

921

H n

o7™"38345"02101

5