Haynes Ford Full-Size Vans 1969 to 1991 Automotive Repair Manual [344] 1563920298, 9781563920295

Citation preview

FORD VANS

1969 thru 1991 & V8 gasoline engines E-100 thru E-350

Six-cylinder inline

All full-size

Automotive Repair Manual

(^HAYNES /977

lV

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY

Ford Full-size Vans

Automotive Repair

Manual by Curt Choate and John H Haynes Member of

the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All full-size

240

models from 1969

thru 1991

300 cu in inline six cylinder engines and 302, 351 400 or 460 cu in VS engines

with

or

,

ABCOE FG

(3U8 - 344)

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park California

91320

USA

Inc

Acknowledgements

We

are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Ford Motor Company for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos, and the Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the illustrations of various spark plug condi-

tions.

©

Haynes North America,

Inc. 1986, 1988, 1990, 1991,

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co.

A book

the

in

1992

Ltd.

Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed in the U.S.A.

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright All rights

holder.

ISBN

56392 029 8

1

Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 92-70523

made

While every attempt

is

manual

liability

is

to ensure that the information in this can be accepted by the authors or publoss, damage or Injury caused by any errors in, or omis-

correct,

lishers for

no

sions from, the information given.

8

Contents Introductory pages

About

this

manual

5 5 7

Introduction to the Ford full-size vans Vehicle identification numbers

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Conversion factors Safety first! Automotive chemicals and lubricants Troubleshooting

facilities

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Part

9 9

16 16 17 1

19

20

27

A

1

Six cylinder inline engines

63

2A

Chapter 2 Part B V8 engines

75

2B

91

2C

119

3

127

4

Engine electrical systems

150

5

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

165

6

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

180

7A

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

192

7B

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

200

8

Chapter 9 Brakes

214

9

Chapter 10 Steering and suspension systems

231

10

Body

242

11

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

262

12

Wiring diagrams

275

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5

Chapter

11

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1987 and

Index

later

models

296

314

13

4

Wagon

Club

Econoline

1981

V

About /ts

this

manual

purpose manual

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself.

The purpose

Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within lines.

of this

is

to help

may

For many simpler jobs, doing an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself. it

yourself

be quicker than arranging

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

that Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1M6). Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

When

NOTE A Note

provides information necessary to properly complete the steps to be followed easier to understand.

a

procedure or information which

will

make

CAUTION A Caution

indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being

worked

on.

WARNING A Warning

indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Warning is found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing the procedure.

Introduction to the Ford full-size vans The Ford Econoline was

introduced in 1961 as the E-100 Series. It was available with either a van, club wagon or pick-up body and a choice of three six-cylinder engines of various displacements. This manual covers all models equipped with inline six-cylinders and V8 engines from 1969 to the present. The inline six-cylinder engine has a displacement of either 240 or 300 cubic inches and is standard equipment. An optional V8 engine, with a displacement of 302, 351, 400 or 460 cubic inches, is also available, depending on the model

year.

The standard transmission on

first

all

three-speed manuautomatic transmission

models

is

a

with mechanical or hydraulic clutch. An is available as an option. The front suspension uses twin beam axles pivoted at the inner ends and attached to the chassis by coil springs and radius rods. The rear suspension is a-conventional semi-elliptical leaf spring arrangeal,

I

ment. Short or long wheelbase versions are available, with hicle weight capacity ranging from 2300 to 1 1,000 lbs.

a

gross ve-

6

N

J

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

VIN also appears on the Vehicle

number

and Registration.

contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle the model year and the body style.

It

was manufactured,

Body Vehicle identification

Certificate of Title

(VIN) number

identification plate

This label is located on the drivers door lock pillar. Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped.

This very important identification is located on a plate attached to the top left corner of the dashboard of the vehicle. The

“N

MOTOR

MFD. BY FORD

GVWR:

DATE: 2/86

7800 lb. 3538

kg

RONT GAWR: 3020 LB

REAR GAWR; 5300 LB WITH

1369KG

2404KG

TIRES RIMS

9.50-16.5E 16.5x6.75

CO. IN U.S.A.

9.50-16.5E 16.5x6.75

AT 35 PSI COLD

AT 75 PSI COLD

CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE THIS VEHICLE

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NO.

1FTBF25G

'TYPE

5

^f

GLAOOOOO

(a)

(b)

(d)

(c)

S^G^AOPOOf (e)

(f)

(h)

(g)

TRUCK 9M

'7B

EXTERIOR PAINT COLORS

vyB

TYPE-GVW

BODY

TRANS

AXLE

TAPE

133

F252

LA4

F

342

B

SPRING 2

D

2 9

(a)(b)(cXd)

©

Name and Date

® ®

of

@

Location of Manufacturer

Manufacture

Vehicle Identification

World Manufacturer

(b)

Brake System and Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

Front Gross Axle Weight Ratings

in

Model Code and

Number

(a)

Pounds

(GVWR)

Class

for

Ford

completed Trucks and MPV's. For

(LB) and Kilograms (KG)

Interior Trim,

@

Transmission Code

Buses and Incomplete Vehicles, the

Front Tire Size

system (c)

Front Tire Cold PSI

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

Model

(only).

(2^

or Line. Series

in

District

Pounds

Engine Type

(e)

Check

(f)

Model Year (Ford-Complete Trucks and

(LB)

Digit

in

Pounds

(LB) and Kilograms (KG)

^

Assembly Plant Code

(h)

Sequential Serial

so Equipped

(|3)

Suspension

(b)

Number

(c)

(d)

Body Tape

Codes

Stripe

Code

Codes Code (Front) Front Spring Code Aux. Opt Usage Code (Rear) Rear Spring Code Identification

Aux. Opt. Usage

Type Vehicle Exterior Paint

Rim Size

if

Special Order

External

(a)

(g)

Code

^

MPV's)

Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating

Front Axle

Chassis Cab or

(d)

and Kilograms (KG)

Tire Size

Cab Type

Rear Axle Code

Body Type

Rear

Seat and Body

(l7)

fourth digit determines the brake

Rim Size

® ® ®

GVW

Identifier

Codes

(two sets of figures

(2^

Front Axle Accessory Reserve Capacity

Pounds

designates a two-tone)

®

Rear

Tire

Cold PSI

Wheelbase

in

Typical light truck certification label

Inches

— 1986

(2^

Total

Accessory Reserve Capacity

Pounds

shown, other years

similar

in

m

8

Vehicle identification numbers

This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Emissions Control Information label and the actual VIN number on the door pillar.

Engine identification numbers

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label The Emissions Control Information label is attached to the engine rocker arm cover on early models and to the radiator support bracket

The engine number is located on a label usually located on the rocker arm cover. Engine identification can also be done by referring to the

1

on

later

models.

FORD MOTOR COMPANY

Mr.kltM.

EVAPORATIVE FAMILY

IS

VACUUM hose ROUTING

DO

VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION

O

9-1

GAP

CATALYST

I

-R

PIN

PIN

‘ ;

1

Brakes ANf

'f

H( jR

PIN PLATE

FORWARD

FORWARD

BRAKE CYLINDER

ANi^HOR

RFTRAi, TINf

AND

/

PIN

SPRING

'

(JNI

BRAKE CYLINDER

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

lir-IINf

RE TAININC-

retracting SPRING

parmni, brake SPRINf

LINK

IP

* ASHE R

-

=

retracting SPRING

TING SPRING

RETRa.;,

brake shoe

HOLD

!

CABLE GUIDE

down

SPRINGS CABLE

primary shoe AND LINING

PARKING brake LEVER

PRIMARY SHOE KND LINING

1

Cable

Park inL BRAKE

hook

PIVOT

LINK

AUTOMATIC adjuster SPRING

PARKING BRAKE CABLE

SOCKET PIVOT

PARKING brake Cad;

ADJUSTING

NUT

SCREW

H(" j ,inG PE

T

ADJUSTING

Withdraw the

3

ADJUSTING LEVER

SCREW

a inE R

FRONT BRAKE 10.1

HOOK

REAR BRAKE

Front and rear

drum brake components (E100 and El 50 models)

cotter pin and nut lock from the wheel bearing ad-

justing nut.

4

Loosen and remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the

spindle.

hub and disc assembly and pull it out far enough to loosen the washer and outer wheel bearing. 6 Push the hub and disc back onto the spindle and remove the washer and outer wheel bearing. 7 Grip the hub and disc assembly and carefully pull it off the wheel 5

Grip the

spindle.

8

and remove the inner tapered roller bearing from the back of the hub assembly. 9 Clean out the hub and wash the bearings with solvent. Make sure that no grease or solvent is allowed to get on the brake disc. 10 Clean the disc with brake cleaner and inspect it for score marks and excessive wear. If damage is evident the disc may be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop, but the minimum thickness of the disc must not end up less than that specified. 1 To reassemble, pack the bearings with the recommended grease (see Chapter 1 ). Work the grease carefully into the bearing cage and Pry out the grease seal

10.6

To reassemble the hub,

2

the inner bearing and then gently grease seal into the hub with a hammer and block of wood. Never reuse the old seal. The lip must face in, toward the hub. 1 3 Install the hub and disc assembly on the spindle, keeping it centered to prevent damage to the inner grease seal and the spindle threads. 1 4 Position the outer wheel bearing and flat washer over the spindle. 1 5 Thread the wheel bearing adjusting nut onto the spindle and tighten it finger tight so that the hub and disc will still rotate freely. Adjust the wheel bearings as described in the repacking procedure in Chapter

1

Front and rear

models) Refer

—

drum brake shoes

(El

00 and El 50

inspection, removal and installation

10.6, 10.8, 10.11, 10.15 and 10.31 Warning: Brake dust contains asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Do not blow it out with compressed air and do not inhale any of it. 1

to illustrations

The

front

and

10.1,

rear

(El

brake shoes, retract and El 50 models)

off the

00

design. The main difference is that the rear brake incorporates the parking brake mechanism (see illustration). 2 Raise the front or rear of the vehicle, as required, and support it with jackstands. Remove the wheels. 3 If working on the front brakes, pry the dust cap from the center of the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and nut and pull off the are virtually identical

hub and drum. 4 In the case

drum brakes used on

El

00 and

El

50 models

in

remove the drum retainer (push-on the hub and drum. 5 If the drum will not come off, remove the rubber cover from the brake backing plate and insert a narrow screwdriver through the slot. Disengage the adjusting lever from the adjusting screw. 6 While holding the adjusting lever away from the screw, back off the screw with a second screwdriver or a brake adjusting tool (see illustration). Be careful not to burr, chip or otherwise damage the notches in the adjusting screw. 7 The brake shoes should be replaced if they are worn beyond the specified limits or will be before the next routine check (see Chapter 1 for the lining thickness check). nut)

1 6 Detach the caliper and anchor plate from the suspension arm and guide the assembly towards the disc. Be careful not to stretch or twist the rubber brake hose. 1 7 Install the caliper by referring to the appropriate Section.

10

drum won't come

install

new

tap a

the

them as shown here

rollers. 1

If

8

and

of the rear brakes,

pull off

To remove the brake shoes, detach and remove the secondary shoe

retracting spring (see illustration).

Detach the primary shoe retracting spring and remove 10 Unhook the adjusting cable eye from the anchor pin.

9

it.

Chapter 9

10.1

Remove

the secondary shoe retracting spring from the post and shoe

10.8

223

Brakes

The shoe hold-down springs can be removed by depressing and turning them with a special tool 1

10.15 Automatic brake adjuster components — exploded view (note the identification marks for right side brakes)

the shoe hold-down springs (see illustration), followed by the shoes, adjusting screw, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjuster 1

1

Remove

parts.

2 Remove the parking brake link and spring. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. 13 After the secondary shoe has been removed, the parking brake lever should be detached from the shoe. Do not disassemble both brakes on one axle at the same time. This 1 4 interis because the brake shoe adjusting screw assemblies are not the increasing reverse, in changeable and if mixed up could operate

10.31

Make

1

drum-to-lining clearance every time the vehicle is backed up. To prevent confusion, the socket end of the adjusting screw is 1 5 stamped with an R or an L. The adjusting pivot nuts can be identified by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves on the nut indicate a right-hand thread and one groove indicates a left-hand thread (see illustration).

the brakes are to be left apart for a period of time, place a warning on the steering wheel, as accidental depression of the brake pedal will force the pistons out of the wheel cylinder. Thoroughly clean all traces of dust from the shoes, backing plate 1 7 1

6

If

and brake drums with brake cleaner. Warning: Do not use compressed

blow

the dust out. 18 Make sure that the pistons are free rubber dust covers are undamaged and

air to

in in

the cylinder and that the position.

Check

for

brake

fluid leaks.

9 Prior to reassembly, apply a trace of white grease to the shoe support pads, brake shoe pivots and the adjusting screw star wheel face 1

and threads. the brake, attach the parking brake lever to the secondary shoe and secure it with the spring washer and retaining clip. 21 Place the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the hold-

20 To reassemble

down

springs.

22 On the Back

rear brakes only, install the parking brake link

off the parking brake

and spring.

adjustment and connect the cable to the

parking brake lever. 23 Position the shoe guide (anchor pin) plate on the anchor pin used).

(if

24

sure the shoe adjusting lever shown on the correct side

is

installed as

Place the cable eye over the anchor pin with the crimped side facing

the backing plate. 25 Install the primary shoe retracting spring. 26 Position the cable guide in the secondary shoe

web

with the flanged

hole in the hole in the secondary shoe web. Thread the cable around the cable guide groove. It is very important that the cable is positioned in the groove and not between the guide and the shoe web. 27 Install the secondary shoe retracting spring. 28 Make sure that the cable eye is not twisted or binding on the anchor pin. All

parts

must be

flat

on the anchor

29 Apply some white grease

pin.

to the threads

justing screw. Turn the adjusting

screw

and socket end

of the ad-

into the adjusting pivot nut

as far as possible, then back it out 1 /2-turn. 30 Place the adjusting socket on the screw and position the assembly between the shoe ends with the adjusting screw star wheel adjacent to the secondary shoe. 3 1 Insert the cable hook into the hole in the adjusting lever The adjusting levers are stamped with and R or L to indicate which brake assembly .

they belong with (see

illustration).

hooked end of the adjuster spring completely into the large hole in the primary shoe web. The last coil of the spring must be at the edge of the hole. 33 Connect the looped end of the spring to the adjuster lever holes. 34 Pull the adjuster lever, cable and automatic adjuster spring down and towards the rear to engage the pivot hook in the large hole in the secondary shoe web. 35 After reassembly, check the action of the adjuster by pulling the section of the cable between the cable guide and the anchor pin towards the secondary shoe web far enough to lift the lever past a tooth on the adjusting screw star wheel.

32

Position the

Q

224

Chapter 9

Brakes

FORWARD ^ A SPRING Cl

r-

T

A.

FORWARD ANCHOR

,•

PLA

FL

PARKING BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY BOLT

jECONOARY '.hue ANG ININ'^

HRAKF CYi INDEk

PIN

^

retracting

PETRAC TINO SPRING

CABLE GUIDE

SPRING

retracting

brake

SPRING

ADJUST! FOOL

contact

brake adjusting tool contact

POINT

POINT

BRAKE SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRINGS

CABLE

PRIMARY SHOE

AND LINING

40

CABLE HOOK 1

PRIMARY SHOE

PARKING BRAKE lever

OVER TRAVEL SPRING

AND LINING ADJUSTING SCREW

retracting SPRING

PARKING BRAKE CABLE

OVER TRAVE

l

SPRING

SOCKET

ADJUSTING SCREW

FRONT BRAKE

11.1

ADJUSTING lever

ADJUSTING SCREW SLOTS'

Front and rear

LEFT

SIDE

REAR BRAKE

OF VEHICLE

drum brake components (E250 and E350 models)

Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining brake assembly, then install the brake drums and wheels, lower the vehicle to the ground and check the operation of the brakes.

Front and rear drum brake shoes {E250 and E350 models) — inspection, removal and installation

1 1

Refer

and

to illustrations

1 1.

11.1,

1

1.3,

1

1.4,

1

1.5,

11.6,

1 1.

7,

1

1.9

13

Note: The rear brake drum removal and installation procedure described here applies only to 1974 and earlier models. Refer to Chapter 1 (Sec-

remove and install the rear brake drums and adjust the bear1975 and later vehicles with full-floating axles. 1 Heavy duty drum brakes are used on the E250 and E350 models. Apart from the parking brake mechanism used on the rear brakes, both tion

1

7) to

ing preload on

1.3

36 The

The axieshaft must be removed on some models detach the brake drum

to

snap into position behind the next tooth and releasing the cable should cause the adjuster spring to return the lever to its original position. This return motion of the lever will turn the adjusting screw slightly. 37 If pulling the cable does not produce the desired action, or if the lever action is sluggish instead of positive and sharp, check the position of the lever on the adjusting screw star wheel. With the brake unit in lever should

a vertical position (anchor pin at the top), the lever should contact the adjusting wheel 0.1 80 + 0.030-inch above the centerline of the screw.

38

If

39

Incorrect action should be

the contact point is below this point, the lever will not lock on the teeth in the adjusting screw star wheel and the screw will not be turned as the lever is actuated by the cable. a)

checked as follows; Inspect the cable and fittings. The cable should completely fill or extend slightly beyond the crimped section of the fittings. If it doesn't, the cable assembly should be replaced with a new

one. b)

c)

d)

e)

Check the cable length. The cable should measure 8.400-inch from the end of the cable anchor to the end of the cable hook. Inspect the cable guide for damage. The cable groove should be parallel to the shoe web and the body of the guide should lie flat against the web. Replace the guide if it is damaged. Inspect the pivot hook on the lever. The hook surfaces should be square to the body of the lever for correct pivot action. Replace the lever if the hook is damaged. Make sure that the adjustment screw socket is correctly seated in the notch in the shoe web.

front and rear brakes are similar in design (see illustration). If working on the front brakes, raise the vehicle and 2 remove the brake drums as described in Paragraphs 2 and 3 of the previous Section.

To remove the rear brake drums, remove the eight bolts and 3 withdraw the axieshaft and gasket (see illustration). Refer to Chapter 8 for

4

more

detailed information related to axieshaft removal. Remove the large locknut and pry up the lockwasher tab (see

tration).

A

large socket

and breaker bar

will

illus-

be needed to remove the

nut.

5 Remove the lockwasher, adjusting nut and outer bearing and withdraw the hub and brake drum (see illustration). If either the front or rear drums stick on the brake 6 shoes, remove

the rubber plug from the rear of the brake backing plate and back off the adjuster (see illustration). 7 On rear brakes, unscrew the nut from the rear of the backing plate, remove the pivot bolt and detach the parking brake lever (see illustration).

Disconnect the adjuster cable from the anchor pin and the adjuster lever. Unhook and remove the brake shoe retracting springs. 9 Unhook the brake shoe hold-down springs from the backing plate and detach the shoes and adjuster assembly (see illustration). 1 0 Refer to the procedure described in Paragraphs 1 4 through 1 9 of Section 10. 1 1 Begin reassembly by attaching the upper retracting pin to both shoes and then place them in position on the backing plate with the notches in the shoes engaged in the wheel cylinder piston slots. 1 2 Install the brake shoe hold-down springs. 1 3 Install the adjuster assembly. Make sure the adjuster screw is facing 8

Chapter 9

1 1 1

.4

A

225

Brakes

1.5

After the adjusting nut and bearing are removed, the

brake drum

large screwdriver can be used to pry up the

will slide off

lockwasher tab so the adjusting nut can be removed

MOVE HANDLE DOWNWARD TO EXPAND BRAKE SHOES

1

If the drum will not slide off, back off the shoe 1.6 adjuster as shown here (E250 and E350 models)

1

1.7

The parking brake

lever

is

secured

in

place by the

pivot bolt at the top

1

1.9

Removing the brake shoe hold-down springs (E250 and E350 models)

11.13

Make sure the adjuster lever contacts the wheel as shown here (E250 and E350 models)

226

Chapter 9

Brakes

BOOT

1 1

1

PISTON

CUP EXPANDER ASSY. 13.2

Wheel cylinder components

toward the primary shoe (see illustration). 4 Install the bottom retracting spring, the adjuster

lever spring

18 When reinstalling the rear hub/drum on 1974 and earlier models with full-floating axles, tighten the bearing adjusting nut (the inner nut) to 50 to 80 ft-lbs while turning the drum. 19 Back-off (loosen) the nut 3/8-turn, then coat a new lockwasher with axle lubricant and install it smooth side out. 20 Install the locknut and tighten it to 90 to 1 00 ft-lbs. The drum must turn freely with an end play of 0.001 to 0.0010-inch (the wheel may have to be installed to turn the drum easily). This is an important

1

specification

—

check

with a dial indicator if one is available. The bearings must not be preloaded or damage will occur. 21 If the end play is acceptable and the wheel turns freely, bend two of the lockwasher tabs in, over flats of the adjusting nut, and two tabs out, over flats of the locknut, to lock the nuts in place. 22 Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining brake assembly, then install the wheels, lower the vehicle to the ground and check the opera-

4

Examine the

inside of the cylinder bore for score

marks and corro-

these conditions exist, the cylinder can be honed slightly to restore it, but replacement is recommended. If the cylinder is in good condition, clean it with brake cleaner, 5 denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to dean brake parts. 6 Remove the bleeder valve and make sure that the hole is clear. 7 Lubricate the new rubber cups with clean brake fluid and insert one into the bore, followed by one piston. Make sure the lip on the rubber cup faces in. Place the return spring in the bore and push in until it contacts 8 the first cup. 9 Install the remaining cup and piston in the cylinder bore. 10 Install the two rubber boots. 1 1 The wheel cylinder is now ready for installation. sion.

If

it

tion of the brakes.

12

exploded view

(see illustration). Discard the rubber parts and use the new ones from the rebuild kit when reassembling the wheel cylinder. 3 Inspect the pistons for scoring and scuff marks. If present, the pistons should be replaced with new ones.

and

the adjuster lever. 5 Connect the adjuster cable to the adjuster lever. Make sure that the cable engages in the groove in the cable guide, then connect the upper end of the cable to the anchor pin. 6 On the rear brakes, connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever and attach the lever to the anchor pin. Thread on the nut at the rear of the backing plate to hold the parking brake lever in place. 1 7 Refer to Paragraphs 35 through 39 of Section 10 for the remaining steps in the brake shoe installation and adjustment procedure.

—

Drum brake wheel

cylinder

—

Drum brake backing

14

plate

—

removal and installation

Note: For removal of the front brake backing plate, refer to Chapter 10. Refer to Sections 10 and 12, and remove the brake shoes and wheel cylinder from the backing plate. 2 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the cable. 3 Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the axleshaft. 1

4

removal and installation

1 The type of wheel cylinder and the method of removal is basically the same for all models. 2 Refer to Section 10 or 11 as appropriate and remove the brake shoes.

Disconnect the parking brake cable retainer from the backing plate. 5 The backing plate and gasket can now be detached from the end of the axle housing. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the brake system as described in Section 2. Don't forget to top up the rear axle oil level if necessary.

Unscrew the brake

3

Do not

pull

line fitting from the rear of the wheel cylinder. the metal line from the cylinder, as it will bend, making

installation difficult.

4

Loosen and remove the two bolts securing the wheel cylinder

1

5

to

the brake backing plate. 5 Detach the wheel cylinder and separate it from the brake line. 6 Plug the end of the brake line to prevent the loss of fluid. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the brakes as described in Section 2.

Automatic adjusters are included on drum brakes. They operate the vehicle is backed up and stopped. If the vehicle is not backed up very often and the pedal movement has increased, then it will be necessary to adjust the brakes as follows. 2 Drive the vehicle in reverse and apply the brake pedal firmly. Now drive it forward and again apply the brake pedal firmly. 1

when

3

3

Drum brake wheel

Refer to illustration

!

cylinder

—

Drum brake shoes — adjustment

Repeat the cycle

inspection and overhaul

until

desirable pedal

movement

obtained. Should be necessary to remove the drums and inspect the adjuster mechanism as described in Section 10. this not

happen

it

is

will

3.2

Note: Purchase two wheel cylinder rebuild kits before beginning this procedure. Never overhaul only one wheel cylinder — always rebuild both of them at the same time.

16

Brake master cylinder

—

removal and installation

For safety reasons, disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the wires from the brake light switch, located adjacent to the brake pedal. 1

Remove

the wheel cylinder as described in the previous Section. 2 To disassemble the wheel cylinder, first remove the rubber boot from each end and push out the two pistons, cup seals and return spring 1

2

3

Remove

the nut and shoulder bolt securing the master cylinder

Chapter 9

227

Brakes

.VENT

RESERVOIR COVER

17.2

Typical master cylinder

components

—

exploded view

RESERVOIR DIAPHRAGM

PRIMARY PISTON ASSEMBLY

SNAP RING

OUTLET PORT (REAR BRAKES!

OUTLET PORT (FRONT brakes) 1

SECONDARY PISTON STOP SCREW

SECONDARY PISTON ASSEMBLY

pushrod to the brake pedal. Note; If the vehicle is equipped with power brakes it is not necessary to remove the switch or the pushrod from the brake pedal. Unscrew the brake lines from the primary and secondary outlet 4 ports of the master cylinder. Plug the ends of the lines to stop the entry of dirt. Take precautions to catch the brake fluid as the lines are detached from the master cylinder body. Loosen and remove the two bolts securing the master cylinder to 5 the dash or brake booster. Pull the master cylinder forward and lift it up to remove it. Do not 6 allow brake fluid to contact any painted areas, as it will ruin them. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the system 7 as described in Section 2. If a new master cylinder is being installed, lubricate the seals before installation (they have a protective coating when originally assembled). Remove the plugs from the brake line ports, pour some clean brake fluid into the master cylinder and operate the

pushrod several times and surfaces.

7

to distribute

Brake master cylinder

Refer

to illustrations

—

it

over

all

the internal

components

overhaul

17.2 and 17.5

Note: Purchase a master cylinder rebuild kit before beginning this procedure. The kit will include all of the replacement parts necessary for the overhaul. The rubber replacement parts, particularly the seals, are importhe key to fluid control in the master cylinder. As such, it's very in tant to install them correctly. Be very careful not to let them come contact with petroleum-based solvents or lubricants. Clean the exterior of the master cylinder with brake cleaner and 1

dry with a lint-free rag. Remove the reservoir cover and diaphragm (see illustration) from 2 brake fluid. the top of the reservoir and pour out any remaining

wipe

it

17.5 retains

remove the snap-ring that the master cylinder piston assembly in the bore

Use snap-ring

pliers to

Loosen and remove the secondary piston stop screw from the bottom of the master cylinder body. Loosen and remove the bleeder screw. 4 Depress the primary piston and remove the snap-ring from the 5 groove at the rear of the master cylinder bore (see illustration). Do not remove the screw retaining the primary return spring re6 primary piston. tainer, return spring, primary cup and protector on the 3

228

Chapter 9

Brakes

BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT

CLUTCH ROD

n

BUSHING

MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

SPRING TRANSMISSION

DETAINER

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

HP

LOCKNUT

BUSHING

BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY

1

BUSHING

1

AUTOMATIC

1

TRANSMISSION

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY

PAD 18.1

Brake pedal and related components

This is factory set and must not be disturbed. 7 Remove the secondary piston assembly.

If it is in good condition, new seals can be installed. If, however, there is any doubt of the condition of the bore a new master cylinder must be installed. 10 If the rubber seals are swollen or very loose on the pistons, suspect

scuffing.

If

contamination one is swollen

in it

the system. Oil is

will

all

seals

in

new

brake fluid. 3 Carefully insert the complete secondary piston and return spring assembly into the master cylinder bore. Ease the seals into the bore, taking care that they do not roll over. Push the assembly all the way in. 1 4 Insert the primary piston assembly into the master cylinder bore. 1 5 Depress the primary piston and install the snap-ring in the cylinder bore groove. 1 6 Install the pushrod boot and retainer on the pushrod and insert the

end of the primary piston. Make sure that the retainer is correctly seated and holding the pushrod securely. 1 7 Place the inner end of the pushrod boot in the master cylinder body the secondary piston stop screw and 0-ring in the bottom master cylinder body. 1 9 Position the diaphragm in the cover, make sure it is correctly seated and install the cover. Secure it in position with the spring retainer.

and

—

removal

installation

Disconnect the brake warning

1

light

connector from the warning

switch.

light

Disconnect the front and rear lines from the valve assembly. Plug the ends of the lines to prevent loss of brake fluid and entry of dirt. 3 Remove the bolts and nuts securing the valve assembly to the chassis. 2

4

Detach the valve assembly and bracket. Don't allow brake fluid to spill on painted surfaces as it will ruin them. 5 The valve assembly cannot be overhauled or repaired. If it is defecwith a new one. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the system as described in Section 2. replace

tive,

20

it

Parking brake assembly

Refer

—

removal and installation

1

Brake pedal

Refer

—

to illustration

On

removal and installation

1

8.1

vehicles equipped with a manual transmission the brake pedal operates on the same shaft as the clutch pedal. Both pedals are removed as described in Chapter 8. Refer to the accompanying exploded

to illustrations 20. la

and 20. 1b

Loosen the adjusting locknut on the cable equalizer (see

illus-

trations).

2

1

Pressure differential valve assembly

Install

of the

18

(typical)

into the

retaining groove.

18

9

the brake

system will need attention. 1 Thoroughly clean all parts with brake cleaner, denatured alcohol or brake fluid. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to dean brake components. 2 All components should be assembled wet after dipping them in

assembly

1

cause the rubber seals to swell.

reasonable to assume that

exploded view

illustration of the brake pedal and related components. 2 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the master cylinder pushrod, then loosen the shoulder bolt nut and slide the shoulder bolt to the right until the brake pedal and pedal bushings can be removed. 3 Replace the bushings (if worn) and install the pedal and pushrod by reversing the removal procedure.

not remove the outlet line seats, outlet check valves and outlet check valve springs from the master cylinder body. 9 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefully for signs of scoring and

011

—

view

Do

8

SHOULDER BOLT

Working under the

remove the nuts securing the parking brake control assembly to the dash panel. 3 On E250 and E350 models only, remove the nut and bolt securing the parking brake bracket to the lower flange of the instrument left

front fender,

panel. the cable ball end from the control assembly clevis and, if used, the cable retaining clip. 5 Remove the parking brake control assembly from the vehicle.

4

Remove

6

Installation

as described

in

the reverse of removal. Check the cable adjustment Section 21.

is

229

230

Chapter 9

Brakes

21 Parking brake

—

adjustment

Refer to Section 15 and adjust the brakes. 2 Block the front wheels, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. 3 Completely release the parking brake and move the shift lever to the Neutral position.

VACUUM HOSE

1

4 Slowly 22

tighten the adjustment nut on the cable equalizer until the

rear brakes just begin to drag.

Back off the adjusting nut until the rear brakes are just released. Lower the vehicle and check the parking brake lever free

5

6

movement. 1

1

Parking brake cable

—

removal and installation

4

Block the front wheels, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Remove the wheels. 2 Refer to Section 10 or 11 and remove the rear brake drums. 3 Release the parking brake and back off the adjusting nut. 4 Remove the cable from the equalizer. 5 Compress the retainer prongs and pull the cable to the rear, through the cable brackets, just enough to release the cable. 6 Remove the clips retaining each cable to the underside of the 23 1

vehicle.

3 8

7 Remove the self adjuster springs and cable retainers from the brake backing plates. 8 Disconnect the ends of the cables from the parking brake levers on the secondary brake shoes. 9 Compress the cable retainer prongs and pull the cable ends from the backing plates. 0 Remove the nuts and bolts from the cable retainers on the chassis. Detach the cable from the retainers and remove it from under the

1

6

NUT

2RQ-D TORQUE 13 25 LB FT

24 3 8 16 4

18 25

24.4

Typical

BOLT

RO D-TORQUE LB FT

power brake booster mounting

details

vehicle. 1

the reverse of removal. Adjust the parking brake as Section 21.

Installation

described

in

is

Brake booster (servo)

—

general information

1 A power booster (servo) is included in the brake circuit to provide assistance to the driver when the brake pedal is depressed. This reduces the effort required by the driver to operate the brakes under all braking conditions. 2 The unit operates by vacuum obtained from the intake manifold

and comprises basically

diaphragm and check valve. The braking effort is transmitted through another pushrod to the servo piston and its built-in control system. The servo piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder, but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges in constant contact with the cylinder wall, assuring an air tight seal between the two parts. The forward chamber is held under the vacuum conditions created

a booster

the intake manifold of the engine. During periods when the brake pedal is not in use, the controls open a passage to the rear chamber, placing it under vacuum conditions as well. When the brake in

pedal is depressed the vacuum passage to the rear of the chamber is cut off and the chamber opened to atmospheric pressure. The consequent rush of air pushes the servo piston forward in the vacuum chamber and operates the main pushrod to the master cylinder. 3 The controls are designed so that assistance is given under all con-

from the atmosphere entering the rear chamber is passed through a small air filter. Under normal operating conditions the servo will give trouble free service for a very long time. If, however, a problem is suspected, such ditions. All air

as increased foot pressure required to apply the brakes, it must be replaced with a new servo. No attempt should be made to repair the old servo as it is not a serviceable item.

Brake booster (servo)

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustration 24.4 1 Remove the brake light switch and actuating rod from the brake pedal as described in Section 18. 2 Working under the hood, remove the air cleaner from the carburetor and the vacuum hose from the servo. 3 Remove the master cylinder from the front of the servo and withdraw it just enough to allow removal of the servo. Note: It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder, but great care must be taken to avoid bending them excessively. 4 Remove the bolts securing the servo bracket to the engine compartment and lift the servo out of the vehicle (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. If it was necessary to disconnect the brake lines, the brake system must be bled as described in Section 2.

Chapter 10

Steering and suspension systems

Contents Chassis lubrication Front axle — removal and installation Front shock absorber — removal and installation Front spring — removal and installation Front wheel spindles — removal and installation General information Power steering drivebelt check and adjustment Power steering fluid level check Power steering gear — removal and installation Power steering pump — removal and installation .

Power Power

system steering system steering

—

—

See Chapter

4 Radius arm — removal and installation Rear shock absorber — removal and installation 9 Rear suspension leaf spring — removal and installation 8 — removal and installation 5 Stabilizer bar 16 Steering column — removal and installation 11 Steering gear — overhaul — installation 10 removal and Steering gear 17 Steering linkage — removal and installation See Chapter 1 Suspension and steering check See Chapter 1 checks Tire and tire pressure See Chapter 1 Tire rotation See Chapter 1 Wheel bearing check and repack

1

6 7

3 2 1

.

bleeding general information

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 1 15 14 13 12

Specifications

Front suspension Twin I-beam axles with 0.1 25 in

Type Toe-in Caster angle Camber angle

coil

springs and telescopic shock absorbers

5°

0.5°

Rear suspension Semi-elliptical leaf springs

Type

and telescopic shock absorbers

Steering (manual) Recirculating ball

Type

24:1 6

Ratio

Number

of turns lock-to-lock

Lubricant capacity thru 1

1

0.87

977

978 and

11

later

lb 1

oz

Lubricant type thru 1

1

C3AZ-1 9578-A

977

978 and

ESW-M1C87A

later

Worm

bearing preload (1978 and later)* Total steering gear mesh load on center (1978 and Total center mesh load in excess of worm bearing preload (1978 and later)** Lash adjuster end clearance (1978 and later) * * *

Torque required Torque required

later)

or equivalent

3 to 8 in-lbs 1 6 in-lbs maximum 1 0 to 16 in-lbs 0.000 to 0.002

in

1-1/2 turns past center (with the Pitman arm disconnected) assembly and input shaft past the center high point

to rotate the input shaft

worm

to turn the

Steering (power assisted) Recirculating ball with integral piston and control valve Ford-Thompson with integral reservoir, belt driven from engine

Type

Pump

type

16:1

Ratio

Number

of turns lock-to-lock.

Fluid capacity Fluid type

.

4 2.44 US pints See Chapter 1

Tires Size and

air

pressure

Refer to the the left door

tire

information decal located on the front of

pillar

232

Chapter 10

Steering and suspension systems

Torque specifications Front suspension

Ft-lbs

Axle-to-pivot bracket Radius arm-to-axle Radius arm-to-rear bracket Spindle bolt locking pin

20 to 60 1 80 to 220 75 to 125 40 to 55 40 to 60 5 to 20 1

Shock absorber lower mount Shock absorber upper mount

Rear suspension U-bolt nuts (El 00

—

1

1

E200)

45 to 60 1 50 to 200 75 to 100 55 to 90 40 to 60 45 to 60

U-bolt nuts (E300) Spring front hanger nuts Spring rear hanger nuts

Shock absorber upper mount Shock absorber lower mount 1

Steering (pre-1978 models) Steering gear-to-frame Pitman arm-to-steering gear Steering column retaining bolts

55 1

to

70

75

to

2

230

8 to 20

Balljoint nuts

50 30

Steering wheel nut

to

75

to

40

Steering (1978 and later models) Sector shaft cover bolts Ball guide clamp screws Preload adjuster locknut Sector shaft-to-Pitman arm

Mesh

30 18 to 42 in-lbs 85 1 70 to 230 25 50 to 75 50 to 75 29 to 41 30 to 45

load adjusting screw locknut

Drag link stud Spindle connecting rod studs Spindle connecting rod clamps Power steering pump brackets

the steering wheel end

General information

The

and has engages

this

a rack

which

The sector shaft moves in bushings lower end. The upper end of the sector shaft

in

a bearing.

is

integral with the ball nut.

Steering shaft bearing adjustment is controlled by a large adjustment at the column end of the steering gear housing and an adjust-

front suspension

system used on the Econoline models covered manual is composed of twin I-beam axles. The wheel spindle end of each axle is located by a radius arm and supports the vehicle through a coil spring and telescopic shock absorber. The inner ends by

a seal at the

screw

ment screw on the sector

are attached to a pivot bracket at the opposite side of the vehicle. The rear axle is supported on semi-elliptical leaf springs attached

Front wheel spindles

shaft end cover.

—

removal and installation

to the chassis by shackles

and hanger assemblies. The springs are secured to the axle by U-bolts. Rear suspension damping is achieved by telescopic shock absorbers. The steering gear is a recirculating ball type with power steering available as an option on all models.

The steering shaft rotates

in

two

ball-type thrust bearings

and

at

Refer to illustration 2.6 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Support the weight of the axle on the side that is being worked on and remove the wheel. 3 Remove the brake drum (or disc) and hub as described in Chapter 1 1

2

Chapter 10 4

On E100 and

steering

El

233

Steering and suspension systems

50 models, remove the brake backing

plate

and 3

arm from the spindle assembly.

On E350 models, disconnect the steering track rod balljoint from 5 the steering arm with a large gear puller. Remove the nut and washer from the spindle lock pin and drive 6 1 the pin (see illustration). out Remove the grease plugs from the top and bottom of the spindle 7 pin, then drive it out from the top of the axle and remove the spindle assembly. Remove the grease seal and bushings from the spindle assembly 8 with a hammer and drift punch. Check the spindle pin for wear and replace it with a new one if 9 necessary. 10 Obtain new bushings, seals and a thrust bearing and install the bushings in the spindle assembly. 1 Place the spindle assembly in position on the axle. Pack the spindle thrust bearing with grease and insert it into the bottom of the spindle.

Front spring

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.5 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Support the outer end of the axle with a floor jack and remove 2 the wheel. Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the bracket. 3 4 Carefully peel back the front floor mat, remove the cover plate and 1

remove the upper 5

Remove

illustration),

retainer bolts (see illustration). the nut securing the lower spring retainer to the seat (see

lower the axle as

far

as possible and remove the spring

retainers and spring.

6

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

sure that the lip side of the seal faces down, into the spindle. Line up the notch in the spindle pin with the hole in the axle and 1 2 tap the pin through the spindle and axle assembly until the notch is lined up with hole in the axle. Carefully drive a new locking pin through the axle and secure it 1 3 with the nut and washer. Tighten the nut and install the grease plugs

Make

at the top

and bottom of the spindle

pin.

14 Make sure that the spindle moves smoothly from lock-to-lock without any free play, then install the steering arm, backing plate, hub and brake drum/disc assembly by reversing the removal procedure. Lubricate the spindle assembly with grease, install the wheel and 1 5 have the toe-in checked by an alignment shop or dealer service department.

.

UPPER WASHER .

This rivet used on E 250 E 350 MODELS ONLY

INSULATOR

3.4 The front spring upper bolts and shock absorber upper mounting bolts are accessible through the holes in the floor pan inside the vehicle

and

WASHER

RADIUS ARM REAR bracket

RADIUS ARM

3.5

Front spring and radius arm

components axle assembly

—

exploded view

234

BAR ASSEMBLY

INST A

L

L

LINK WITH OFFSET AS SHOWN

TOWARD FRONT

WASHER

BRACKET

VIEW

5.2

Stabilizer bar

and related components

NOTE CLAMPS MUST BE installed IN

POSITION

SHOWN

- 45°

IN

DIRECTION OF

ARROW

2

exploded view

RIGHT AXLE ASSEMBLY

RIGHT axle PIVOT BRACKET

VIEW X

6.6

Front axle pivots

—

exploded view

VIEW Y

Chapter 10

4

—

Radius arm

235

Steering and suspension systems 3

removal and installation

4

Remove Remove

the front spring as described in Section 3. the stabilizer bar (if used) as described in the previous

Section. 1

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Position a jack under the outer end of the axle and remove the

2 wheel. Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the support 3 bracket. 41 Remove the front spring by referring to the appropriate Section. Remove the lower spring seat from the radius arm and then remove 5 nut and bolt securing the front of the radius arm to the axle (see the 5 illustration 3.5).

6

Remove

arm away from the

front axle

to the specified torque.

and

Front shock absorber

—

removal and installation

it

Remove

the reverse of removal. Make sure that the rubber insulators are reinstalled in the correct order. Tighten the radius armto-axle bolt to the specified torque and secure it with the cotter pin. Tighten the rear nut to the specified torque. 0 After the radius arm has been installed, have the steering angles and toe-in checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop. 9

bracket and detach the axle from the vehicle (see illustration). Examine the bushings and pivot bolt for wear and replace them 7 if necessary. If the axle is bent, take it to a Ford dealer who will have the necessary equipment for straightening it. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the nuts 8

8

from the rear bracket. the front retainer and rubber insulator from the radius arm and retrieve any shims that may be used. 6 8

Remove

the nut, washer and rubber insulator from the rear of the

radius arm. 7 Push the front of the radius

withdraw

the spring lower seat from the radius arm and remove the nut and bolt securing the front of the radius arm to the axle. 7 Remove the nut and bolt securing the end of the axle to the pivot 6 5

Installation

is

Stabilizer bar

—

Block the rear wheels, apply the parking brake, loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. 1

Remove the wheels. Remove the nut, washer and 2

absorber. Remove the nut and bolt securing the bottom end of the shock 3 absorber to the lower bracket. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the 4 fasteners to the specified torque.

removal and installation Rear suspension leaf spring

Refer 1

2 link

to illustration

3 the bar and links from the vehicle.

4 Replace any worn bushings and install the bar by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure that the links are installed with the bend facing forward.

Refer

—

removal and installation

to illustration

—

removal and installation

5.2

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Disconnect the left and right ends of the stabilizer bar from the assemblies attached to the axle brackets (see illustration). Remove the brackets securing the bar to the chassis and detach

Front axle

bushing from the top end of the shock

6.6

Raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Remove the front wheel spindle from the appropriate axle by follow2 ing the procedure described in Section 2. 1

LOCK NUT

Refer

to illustrations

8.2a and 8.2b

Block the front wheels, raise the rear of the vehicle and support jack. it on jackstands. Support the weight of the rear axle on a Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the axle 2 bracket (see illustrations). Remove the two U-bolts and the spring retainer plate and lower 3 the axle. Remove the upper and lower rear shackle bolts and nuts. Puli the 4 rear shackle from the bracket and spring. Remove the nut and bolt from the front spring bracket and remove 5 1

the spring. If the front bushing must be replaced, have it done by a Ford dealer 6 service department as a special tool is required to draw out the old bushing and insert the new one. If you are inventive, the job can be done using a large bench vise and a selection of various size pipe sections.

SHACKLE

10

FLAT washer

8.2a

Rear suspension

— exploded view — E200 models)

components (E100

HANGER

U.BOLT

V

236 7 all

Chapter 10

Steering and suspension systems

The manufacturer recommends that when a rear spring is replaced, old nuts and bolts should be discarded and new ones obtained.

Always replace

rear springs

in pairs.

When installing the spring, attach the front end first, but do not 8 tighten the nut completely at this stage. 9 Attach the rear spring shackle to the bracket and attach the spring to the shackle. Do not tighten the shackle pin nuts. 10 Raise the axle with a jack until the spring center bolt is located in the hole in the axle housing. 1 1 Install the spring retaining plate and U-bolts but do not tighten the nuts at this stage. 1 2 Attach the shock absorber to the axle bracket. 1 3 Raise the vehicle with the jack until the rear wheels are clear of the ground and then tighten the front and rear spring retaining nuts to the specified torque. 14 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

wheel nuts,

raise the front of the vehicle

Remove the wheels. 3 Remove the bolts from

—

removal and installation

on jackstands.

the lower half of the flex coupling (see

illustration).

Using a large gear puller or Ford special tool No. 3290-C, disconnect the Pitman arm from the drag link. 5 Support the weight of the steering gear, remove the three mounting bolts and detach the steering gear from the vehicle. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that the input shaft is in the center position (approximately three turns from either stop) and the Pitman arm is located on the sector shaft so that it points down.

11

Steering gear

—

Refer to illustrations

Rear shock absorber

it

4

and 9

and support

overhaul

11.2,

11.8,

11.19,

11.23, 11.24 11.26, 11.28,

11.41

11.51

Thru 1977 Set the steering shaft to the center position and mark it in relation body. 2 Remove the large locknut and then unscrew the steering shaft adjuster nut. Lift out the upper bearing and cup (see illustration). 3 Remove the sector shaft adjuster screw locknut and loosen the adjuster screw approximately one turn. 4 Remove the screws securing the sector shaft cover and remove the cover by turning the adjuster screw clockwise. Retrieve the adjuster screw shim. 5 Withdraw the sector shaft from the housing. 6 Carefully withdraw the steering shaft and ball nut assembly and remove the lower bearing. 7 Check the condition of the steering shaft worm and ball nut. If the ball nut rotates roughly or the worm gear is pitted, replace them with new parts, as wear in one is certain to cause wear in the other. 8 Check the condition of the sector shaft bearing. If worn, drive it out of the housing with a hammer and drift punch or special tool No. 1

Block the front wheels, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. 2 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting nut and detach the shock absorber from the mounting bracket. 3 Remove the nut from the upper mount stud and withdraw the shock absorber from the mount. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the fasteners to the specified torque. 1

10

Steering gear

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustration 10.3 1 Move the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and lock the steering with the ignition key. 2 Block the rear wheels, apply the parking brake, loosen the front

to the steering gear

T62F-3576A

(see illustration).

N WASHER-OUTER

8.2b

Rear suspension components

—

exploded view (E300 models)

Chapter 10

237

Steering and suspension systems

Clean the housing assembly and replace the upper and lower steerand cups with new ones. 1 0 To reassemble the steering gear assembly, first install a new seal on the end of the sector shaft bearing. Apply some gear oil around the bearing. 1 1 Install the lower bearing in the steering gear housing. 1 2 Lubricate the worm gear and ball nut and insert them into the housing. 1 3 Place the upper bearing on the steering shaft. 1 4 Coat the threads of the adjuster nut with an oil resistant sealant and install it in the housing, but do not tighten it. Install the locknut with the flat side against the adjuster. 1 5 To adjust the worm bearing preload, attach an in-lbs torque wrench to the steering shaft and turn the adjuster nut in or out until the effort required to turn the steering shaft in either direction is 4-to-5 in-lbs. 16 Tighten the locknut and recheck the preload. 1 7 Rotate the steering shaft until the ball nut teeth are in position to 9

mesh with

ing shaft bearings

to the housing.

the sector shaft. Lubricate the sector shaft and insert

8

Fill

setting.

20 The

steering gear can

1978 and

now

be reinstalled

Driving out the sector shaft bearing

in

the vehicle.

later

Remove

the steering gear assembly from the vehicle as described Mount the assembly securely in a vise, clamping onto in Chapter 1 1 one of the mounting tabs. The workbench must be exceptionally clean and care must be taken to keep all of the components free of dirt. 2

1

.

22 With

the

worm

shaft

in

the horizontal position, turn the

Steering gear components (typical early

1.8

in-

the housing with the specified amount of gear oil and install the cover and a new gasket. Make sure that the adjuster screw head is correctly engaged in the top of the sector shaft. 1 9 Attach an in-lbs torque wrench to the end of the sector shaft and turn the adjusting screw until an effort of 9-to-1 0 in-lbs is required to turn the shaft (see illustration). Tighten the locknut and recheck the 1

11.2

1

it

11.19

—

worm

shaft

exploded view

models)

Adjusting the sector shaft preload

y

238

Chapter 10

Steering and suspension systems

.

Wi -mV

;

Nl

)

SC;

rOR SHAFT SEAL

WORM SHAFT UPPER BEARING CUP

WORM SHAFT UPPER thrust bearing SECTOR SHAFT BUSHINC

WORM SHAFT LOWER THRUST bearing

WORM SHAFT LOWER BEARING CUP

WORM BEARING ADJUSTER

WORM BEARING ADJUSTER LOCKNUT

SECTOR COVER BOLTS BALL GUIDE CLAMP SCREWS 1

1.23

Steering gear

components

BALL GUIDE CLAMP

exploded view

(typical later

models)

HOLD ASSEMBLY HORIZONTAL

1

1.26

Carefully withdraw the wormshaft and ball nut from the housing

exactly halfway between stops, placing the gear on center. 23 Unscrew the sector cover mounting bolts from the housing (see illustration).

24 Using

a soft face hammer, tap lightly on the end of the sector shaft, the sector cover and sector shaft assembly from the housing (see illustration). It may be necessary to turn the worm shaft until the sector can pass through the opening in the housing. 25 Unscrew the locknut from the adjuster plug, then remove the adjuster plug assembly. lifting

26

Carefully

remove the worm shaft and

ing (see illustration).

end

27

Do

not allow the

ball

assembly from the hous-

nut to run down to either may be damaged. From inside the gear housing, remove the worm shaft upper of the

worm

ball

or the ball guides

bearing. 1

1.28

Prying the lower thrust bearing retainer from the adjuster plug with a large screwdriver

28

Pry the

worm

shaft lower bearing retainer from the adjuster plug housing with a large screwdriver (see illustration). Remove the bearing.

Chapter 10

Steering and suspension systems

1

1

1.41

25

Install

balls in

each

and

slide

hammer

the

shaft seals into position using

home mechanic

is

not

likely to

have. If the bearing cup needs replacing it should be taken to the dealer. 36 Carefully check the condition of the steering shaft worm and the ball nut. If the ball nut rotates harshly and there are signs of pitting on the worm gear, the best policy is to replace both the worm shaft and the ball nut with new components, as wear in one is certain to

cause wear

in

the other.

guides from the ball nut after removing the screws and clamp securing them. 38 Hold the ball nut upside down over a clean receptacle and rotate the worm shaft back-and-forth until all the balls drop out of the ball nut. The ball nut can be removed from the worm after the balls are

37 Withdraw

the

ball

removed.

39 Inspect the worm, the signs of wear or damage. If

the other ball circuit as described in the previous steps. Assemble the ball guide clamp to the ball nut and tighten the screws to the specified torque. 45 Rotate the ball nut on the worm to be sure it does not bind. Do not rotate the ball nut to the end of the worm threads as damage to

the

nut and the balls and ball guides for doubt about the condition of a compo-

the worm shaft lower bearing assembly in the adjuster plug bearing cup and, with a suitable socket, press the stamped retainer

the other half of the ball guide in position on the ball guide with the balls in it. Plug the end with grease to hold the balls in place while installing the guides in the ball nut. 43 To complete one circuit of balls, push the guide into the guide holes of the ball nut. It may be necessary to tap the guide into position with

the handle of a screwdriver

if

it

does not push easily

into place.

Install

into place.

50 Working from

the lower end of the housing, install the adjuster plug and the locknut until almost all of the worm shaft end play is removed. At the same time, carefully guide the end of the worm shaft into the bearing.

Attach the lash adjuster and shim in the slotted end of the sector shaft and measure the end clearance (see illustration). If the end clearance is more that the specified limit, a different thickness shim must be installed. 52 Install 1 1 ounces of steering gear lubricant, then rotate the worm shaft until the ball nut is at the end of its travel. Install as much lubricant as possible into the housing without it coming out of the sector shaft opening. Rotate the worm shaft until the ball nut is at the other end of its travel and pack lubricant into the other opening. 53 Position the ball nut in the center of its travel by turning the worm shaft. Check that the sector shaft and the ball nut engage correctly, with the center tooth of the sector entering the center tooth space 51

the ball nut. Install the sector shaft without the sector cover into the housing so the sector center tooth enters the center tooth space in the ball nut. Place some lubricant in the bushing hole in the sector cover and pack the remaining portion of lubricant into the housing. Place a new

in

42 Hold

new

seal.

54

balls (see illustration).

may

sector shaft and worm shaft seals have been installed and that the worm shaft bearing cups and sector shaft bushings are installed in the housing. 48 Position the worm shaft upper bearing assembly over the worm shaft and install the worm shaft and ball nut assembly in the housing, feeding the ends of the shaft through the upper ball bearing cup and

in

grooves in the worm and the ball nut. 41 Separate the balls into two groups of 25. Hold the worm from rotating while installing the balls. Using the end of a suitable pin punch, press 20 balls into one of the guide holes. With the groove up, lay one half of the ball guide on the workbench and install the remaining five

ball

that the

ball

nent, replace it with a new unit. 40 With the shallow end of the ball nut teeth to the left (looking from the input shaft end) and the ball guide holes facing up, slip the ball nut over the worm. Look through the ball guide holes to align the

guides

occur. 46 Lubricate the sector shaft bushings, the sector cover bushings and the worm shaft bearings with steering gear lubricant. 47 Mount the steering gear housing securely in a vise with the sector cover up and the worm shaft bore in the horizontal position. Be sure

49

an appropriate size socket or special tool No. T75T-35527-A. 35 If the sector shaft bushing or the sector cover bushing needs replacing, it is best left to your Ford dealer to do because of the need for special tools. Removal of the worm shaft lower bearing cup requires a special puller

Measuring the lash adjuster end clearance with a feeler gauge

44 Assemble

ball circuit

29 Unscrew the locknut from the lash adjuster screw in the sector cover. Turn the lash adjuster screw clockwise to remove it from the sector cover. 30 Remove the adjuster screw and shim through the slot in the end of the sector shaft. 31 Pry the worm shaft and the sector shaft seals from position and discard them. 32 Thoroughly clean all of the steering assembly components in cleaning solvent and inspect them for wear. Check the bearings and bearing cups for signs of wear, scoring, pits, chipping or breakdown of the surface. If there is any doubt as to the condition of any components, they should be replaced with new parts. 33 Check the sector shaft for a good fit in the sector cover and the housing and inspect the worm shaft assembly to see if it is bent or

damaged in any way. 34 Press new sector shaft and worm

1.51

239

sector cover gasket in position on the housing. 55 Place the sector cover in position on the sector shaft. Insert a screwdriver through the cover and turn the lash adjuster screw counterclockwise until the screw bottoms. Turn the lash adjuster screw clockwise one-half turn. 56 While holding the cover away from the ball nut, install the sector cover bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 57 Install a new locknut loosely on the adjuster screw and adjust the backlash of the sector shaft to the specified amount. Tighten the

locknut to the specified torque. 58 Rotate the worm shaft from the gear center to both stops, counting the number of turns. Be sure there are three turns from center-to-stop and six turns from stop-to-stop.

240

Chapter 10

SAFETY

PIN

SAFETY

Steering and suspension systems

PIN

TURN signal lever

STEERING SHAFT

FLANGE

BRAKE SUPPORT BRACKET

FLEX COUPLING

COUPLING TO GEAR ATTACHING BOLT VIEW

IN

WORM (INPUTI SHAFT OF STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY

DIRECTION OF

ARROW

X

STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY

LOWER SHIFT LEVER

COLUMN UPPER BRACKET

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Y FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

LOWE 1 SHIFT LEVERS

1

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Y FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION

VIEW

VIEW FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY

16.1

12

Power

steering system

—

Typical steering column

components

3 general information

available on Econoline

vans has

a Ford-

Thompson type pump

that is belt driven from the crankshaft to direct servo assisted, recirculating ball type steering gear. 2 Servo assistance is obtained by a piston attached to the end of the worm shaft. The degree of assistance is controlled by a spool valve attached to the steering input shaft. 3 The power steering pump incorporates an integral fluid reservoir. 4 Due to the complexity of the components and the special tools required for overhaul and repair, the power steering pump and gearbox should not be disassembled. If problems are encountered, replace the units with new or factory rebuilt components.

1

that

steering

system

—

bleeding

The power steering system will only require bleeding in the event air has entered the system due to low fluid level, leaks and/or when

lines are

2

Open

up,

if

disconnected.

the hood and check the fluid level in the pump reservoir. necessary, with the specified type of fluid.

1

2

Power steering pump

—

from the

lines

pump and

drain the fluid into a

Chapter 5. 6 Remove the bolts attaching the pump to the engine bracket and detach the pump. Note: On some engine installations it may be necessary to remove the pump and bracket as a unit. 7

Installation is the reverse of removal. Top up the system with the specified fluid, adjust the drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1 ), then bleed

the system as described

removal and installation

Loosen the pump adjusting and mounting bolts. Push the pump in toward the engine and remove the

5

Power

in

steering gear

—

Section 13.

removal and installation

The procedure for removing the power steering gear is similar to that described in Section 1 0, with the additional task of disconnecting the pump lines. Installation is the reverse of removal. Top up the system with the specified fluid, adjust the drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1 ), then bleed the system as described in Section 13.

Top

If fluid is added, wait two minutes, then run the engine at 3 approximately 1 500 rpm. Slowly turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock while checking and topping up the fluid level until the level remains steady and no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. 4 Clean and install the reservoir cap.

14

Z

Plug or tape over the end of the lines to prevent the entry of dirt. If necessary, remove the alternator drivebelt(s) as described in

5

1

Power

ARROW

suitable container.

fluid to a

3

DIRECTION OF

exploded view

Disconnect the

4

The power steering system

1

—

IN

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHOWN

1

Steering column

—

Refer to illustration 16.

removal and installation

1

Set the wheels to the straight ahead position and mark the steering shaft flange and flexible coupling with a piece of chalk or paint to ensure correct alignment during reassembly (see illustration). 2 Remove the steering wheel as described in Chapter 12. 3 Remove the two screws retaining the steering column cover panel and remove the panel (later models only). 1

4 drivebelt.

6

Disconnect the ignition switch wire connector and the back-up and Neutral start switch wires from the column.

Chapter 10

241

Steering and suspension systems 1

1

Remove Chapter

in

1

the turn signal lever and switch assembly as described 2.

the upper bearing snap-ring, push the steering shaft down and remove it along with the lower bearing. 13 Remove the upper shaft bearing from the top of the column. 1 4 Install new bearings in the column assembly and insert the steering 1

2

Remove

shaft from the lower end of the column. 1 5 Push the shaft through the upper and lower bearings and install

the upper bearing snap-ring. 1 6 Install the shift lever and turn signal switch, then install the steering column assembly in the vehicle by reversing the removal procedure.

1

1

7

Steering linkage

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustration 17.2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the two connecting rod balljoints then disconnect them from the spindle arms with a puller (see illustration). Remove the connecting rod from beneath the vehicle. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the two drag link balljoints. 3 Using a puller, disconnect the drag link from the sector shaft arm and spindle arm. Remove the drag link from the vehicle. 4 The drag link balljoints cannot be replaced. If worn, a new link must be obtained. To replace the connecting rod balljoints, loosen the clamp bolts 5 then unscrew the balljoints from the connecting rod, carefully counting the number of turns necessary to remove each balljoint. Note that this number probably will not be exactly the same for the left and right side 1

2

17.2

5 in

Steering linkage

Disconnect the Chapter 7.

shift rod

components

from the column

—

exploded view

shift levers

Remove

as described

the two nuts securing the steering shaft flange to the flexcoupling. 7 Remove the three bolts retaining the steering column cover plate to the inside of the dash panel. Remove the bolts securing the upper steering column bracket to 8 the brake support bracket. Withdraw the complete column assembly through the dash panel 9 opening toward the inside of the vehicle. 0 If the steering column bearings require replacement, drive out the

6

ible

shift lever retaining pin

and remove the

lever.

balljoints.

6

Thread the

of turns as

was

new

connecting rod the same number required to remove the old balljoints. Tighten the clamp balljoints into the

bolts and nuts.

7

Install

the steering linkage

in

the vehicle by reversing the removal

procedure. Have the front wheel toe-in checked by a Ford dealer service 8 department.

10

1

Chapter 11

Body

Contents 2Body

—

Body Body

repair

maintenance — major damage — repair minor damage Doors — finding and eliminating rattles Door trim panel — removal and installation Front and rear bumpers — removal and installation Front door latch — removal and installation Front fenders (later models only) — removal and installation

General information Hinged doors — removal and installation Hinges and locks — maintenance

2 5

4 7 9

22 10 21 1

14 6

General information

The Econoline van body is an all steel, welded construction unit mounted on a separate frame. The frame consists of two main longitudinal members joined by crossmembers. This forms a ladder shaped chassis, which

is extremely strong. the event of major body damage the chassis dimensions must be checked and restored by a body shop. The Econoline is available with a side opening door and a variety of window layouts to suit all customer requirements. Rear passenger seats are available and, on later models, swivelling front seats are also

In

available.

Body 1

—

maintenance

The condition

of your vehicle's

bodywork

is

of considerable impor-

mainly depend. It is much neglected bodywork than mechanical components. The hidden portions of the body, such as the wheel arches, the underframe and the engine compartment, are equally important, although obviously not requiring such frequent attention as the immedtance, as

more

it

is

on

this that the resale value will

difficult to repair

iately visible paint.

2 Once a year or every 1 2,000 miles it is a good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the underside can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged hydraulic lines, frayed electrical wiring and similar trouble areas. The front suspension should be greased on completion of this job. At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment 3 either using a steam cleaner or a water soluble cleaner. 4 The wheel arches should be given particular attention, as undercoating can easily come away here and stones and dirt thrown up from

Hood

—

removal and installation Radiator grille (thru 1973) — removal and installation Radiator grille (1974 and later) — removal and installation ... Rear door latch — removal and installation Side door latch — removal and installation Sliding door — adjustment Sliding door latch — removal and installation Sliding door — removal and installation Upholstery and carpets — maintenance Window regulator mechanism and glass — removal

and

installation

Windshield glass

18 19

20 13 12 15 16 17 3 11

—

removal and installation

8

the wheels can soon cause the paint to chip and flake, and so allow rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint. 5 Use a mild detergent and soft sponge to wash the exterior of the vehicle and rinse immediately with clear water. Owners who live in coastal regions and where salt or chemicals are used on the roads should wash the finish often to prevent damage to the finish. Do not wash the vehicle in direct sunlight or when the metal is warm. To remove road tar, insects or tree sap use a tar remover rather than a knife or sharp object, which could scratch the surface. A coat of wax or polish may be your best protection against the 6 elements. Use a good grade of polish or wax suitable for a high-quality synthetic finish. Do not use a wax or polish which contains large amounts of abrasives, as these will scratch the finish. 7 Bright metal parts can be protected with wax or a chrome preservative. During winter months or in coastal regions apply a heavier coating or, if necessary, use a non-corrosive compound such as petroleum jelly for protection. Do not use abrasive cleaners, strong detergents or materials such as steel wool on chrome or anodized aluminium parts, as these may damage the protective coating and cause discoloration or deterioration. 8 Interior surfaces can be wiped clean with a damp cloth or with cleaners specifically designed for car interior fabrics. Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions and test any commercial cleaners on an inconspicuous area first. The carpet should be vacuumed regularly and can be covered with mats. Cleaning the mechanical parts of the vehicle serves two functions. 9 First, it focuses your attention on parts which may be starting to fail, allowing you to fix or replace them before they cause problems. Second, it is much more pleasant to work on parts which are clean. You will still get dirty on major repair jobs, but it will be less extreme. Large areas should be brushed with detergent, allowed to soak for about 1 5 minutes and then carefully rinsed clean. Cover ignition and carburetor parts with plastic to prevent moisture from penetrating these critical

components.

Chapter

243

Body

11

whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often

to replace the

3

Upholstery and carpets

—

maintenance

quicker to

Every three months remove the carpets or mats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt and dust. If the upholstery is soiled, apply upholstery cleaner 2 with a damp sponge and wipe it off with a clean, dry cloth. 1

install a

new

panel than to attempt to repair largs

damaged

areas.

Remove will

all

headlamp,

which such as shape of the damaged body

trim pieces from the affected area (except those

act as a guide to the original

shells etc.). Using metal snips or a

hacksaw

blade,

remove

loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hamof the hole inwards to create a slight depression for the filler material. Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with rust-inhibiting paint. all

mer the edges

4

Body

Refer

repair

—

to the color

minor damage

Repair of minor scratches the scratch is superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surrounding paint of wax buildup. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the scratch area. Where the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area with glaze type filler. If required, this filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this section. If

Repair of dents

When

denting of the vehicle's body has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out until the affected area nearly attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 1 /8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent a large area of the metal from being stretched. If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is in order. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long selftapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the heads of the screws with locking pliers. The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor,

although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file (or drill small holes in the affected area). This will provide a very good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes Remove all paint from the affected area and from an

can be done it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be accomplished with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the hole with wire mesh. Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. Before

photo sequence.

inch or so of

the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job as effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and therefore decide whether

Filling

filling

and painting

Many

types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking, body which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best suited for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly. Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area. Draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the original one is achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20 minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surrounding metal. Once the filler has hardened the excess can be removed using a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wetor-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage. At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of base metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of the good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sand operation is gone. Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the areas with clean water and allow it to dry repair kits

completely.

now

ready for painting. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dustfree atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel mask off the surrounding panels. This will help to minimize the effects of a slight mismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking operations. Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. After the primer has dried, use 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying addi-

The

repair area

is

tional coats.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair area and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair

^ ^

244

Chapter

area and about

Remove

two inches

of the surrounding original paint

is

11 7

Body

covered.

masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the 5 final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a very fine rubbing compound, blend the edges of the new paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a coat of wax.

Doors

all

Make

Body

repair

—

major damage

finding and eliminating rattles

not loose at the hinges and that the latch is holding the door firmly in position. Also, the door must line up with the opening in the body. 8 If the hinges are loose or the door is out of alignment, the hinges 2 1

must be

6

—

3

If

sure that the door

is

reset.

the latch

is

latched and the door should line alignment, adjust it. If the latch is fully

Major damage must be repaired by an auto body/frame repair shop with the necessary welding and hydraulic straightening equipment. If the damage has been serious, it is vital that the frame structure 2 be checked for correct alignment, as the handling of the vehicle will be affected. Other problems, such as excessive tire wear and wear in the transmission and steering, may also occur.

should close tightly when up with the body. If it is out of loose, some part of the lock

holding the door properly,

it

1

mechanism must be worn

the door could be caused by wear or looseness in the window mechanism, the glass channels and sill strips or the door buttons and interior latch release mechanism.

4

Other rattles

in

Windshield glass

Hinges and locks

—

maintenance

Refer

—

to illustration 8.1

removal and installation

1

windshield is being replaced, the air vents should be covered before attempting removal. Adhesive sheeting can be used to stick to the outside of the glass to enable large areas of shattered glass to be removed. Remove the windshield wiper arms and blades from the vehicle 2 1

Every 3000 miles or three months, the door, hood, side and rear door hinges should be lubricated with a few drops of oil and the locks treated with dry graphite lubricant. The door striker plates should be given a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement.

out.

If

a shattered

r

N

//

/

/^WEATHERSTRIP VIEW B

8.11

V

Windshield weatherstrip and installation details

Chapter Chapter 12 if necessary). the 3 windshield is removed intact, an assistant will be required. Release the rubber surround from the body by running a small, blunt screwdriver around and under the rubber weatherstrip both inside and outside the vehicle. This operation will break the adhesion of the original sealant. Take care not to damage the paint or cut the rubber surround with the screwdriver. (refer to If

Have your assistant push the inner lip of the rubber surround off the flange of the windshield body opening. Once the rubber surround 4

starts to peel off the flange the windshield

may be forced gently out with gentle hand pressure. The second person should support and remove the windshield, complete with rubber surround and metal beading as it comes out. If you are removing a shattered windshield, 5 remove all traces of sealing compound and broken glass from the weatherstrip and body flange.

6

Now

the time to remove all pieces of glass. Use a vacuum cleaner to extract as much as possible. Switch on the heater motor and adjust the controls to Defrost. Watch out for flying pieces of glass which might

245

Body

11

Insert a piece of thick cord into the channel of the weatherstrip 9 with the two ends protruding at least 1 2-inches at the top center of the weatherstrip.

10 Apply

sealer (type

C5AZ-1 9554-A)

in the windshield opening the weatherstrip. 1 1 Position the windshield in the opening and, with an assistant to press the rubber surround hard against one end of the cord, move around the windshield, drawing the lip over the windshield flange of the body (see illustration). Keep the draw cord parallel to the windshield. Using the palms of your hands, press on the windshield from the outside to enable the lip to pass over the flange and to seat the

groove

in

windshield in the opening. 1 2 To ensure a good watertight joint, apply some sealer between the weatherstrip and the body and press the weatherstrip against the body all the way around the windshield. 13 Excess sealer can be removed with a solvent soaked cloth.

is

be blown out of the ducts. 7 Carefully inspect the rubber moulding for signs of splitting or

9

Door trim panel

Refer

deterioration.

To install the windshield, first position the weatherstrip on the 8 windshield with the joint at the lower edge.

1

—

removal and installation

to illustrations 9. la, 9. 1b,

Remove

door (see

9.2 and 9.4

the screws and detach the armrest from the inside of the

illustrations).

X

SCREW

11

LEFT SIDE

9.1a

Door trim panel components

(typical)

246 2

Chapter

Remove

the

two nuts from

the inside door handle and remove the

handle and trim cup (see illustration). If the vehicle is equipped with a radio, remove the four screws 3 and detach the grille. 4 Remove the screw retaining the window regulator handle and remove the handle, washer and spacer (see illustration). Carefully pry the clips out of the door and remove the trim panel. 5 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9.1b

The armrest

is

Body

11

10

Front door latch

Refer 1

2

3

to illustrations

removal and installation

10.2,

10.3 and 10.4

Remove Remove

the trim panel as described in the previous Section. the access panel from the door (see illustration). Disconnect the control links from the latch assembly (see illus-

tration).

attached to the door with two screws

9.2

9.4

—

Removing the window regulator handle

10.2

Inside door handle

and trim cup

Removing the door access panel

247

PUSH BUTTON

ASSEMBLY

LATCH ASSEMBLY

DOOR OUTSIDE handle

VIEW

B

11

WITHOUT TRIM PANEL VIEW C

10.3

Front door latch assembly details

248

Chapter

Body

11

4 Remove the three screws securing the latch assembly to the door and withdraw the latch (see illustration). If required, the outside door handle can be detached by removing 5 the two retaining nuts on the inside of the door. The door lock cylinder can be removed by sliding out the retaining 6 clip.

the reverse of removal. Be sure to adjust the stroke of the external push button in relation to the lock operating plate. Make sure that the plastic sheet beneath the interior trim panel is in good condition and in place. Check the door closing operation. Adjust the position of the striker 8 plate on the door pillar, if necessary, so that the door closes quietly and securely and the edge of the door is flush with the surrounding body surfaces when it is latched. 1 7

Installation

Window

1

and

is

regulator

mechanism and

glass

—

removal

installation

Refer to illustration 11.2

10.4

Withdrawing the door latch assembly through the access hole

Remove

the door trim panel as described in Section 9 and remove the access panel from the door. Remove the three screws securing the vent window assembly to 2 the upper leading edge of the door (see illustration). Remove the screw securing the front run retainer and division bar 3 bracket to the door. 4 Slide the front run from the retainer and division bar. 5 Unsnap and remove the beltline weatherstrip from the door. 1

REGULATOR ARM ROLLER

1

1.2

Front door glass and

window

regulator

mechanism

2

Chapter 6

249

Body

11

the handle and lower the glass. Remove the two screws securing the rear run retainer to the door edge and lower the rear retainers to the bottom of the door. 71 Tilt the vent window and division bar assembly to the rear and 1 separate the vent window from the front run retainer and division bar. Remove the vent window and the front run retainer and division 81 bar from the door. Rotate the front edge of the glass down and remove the glass and 9 Install

channel assembly from the door, sliding the glass channel off the regulator arm roller. Remove the regulator assembly retaining screws and withdraw the 1 0 regulator through the opening. 1 Replace the regulator mechanism as an assembly if the spring is broken or other components are worn or damaged. 2 Installation is the reverse of removal. Lightly grease the channel at the bottom of the glass before engaging the operating arm rollers. 1

3

Wind the window up-and-down,

to the fullest extent of

its

7

travel,

and adjust the run retainer screws so that the window glass moves squarely and smoothly and yet the channels exert a slight grip to prevent the glass from dropping sharply when the regulator handle is first moved to wind the window down.

2

Refer

removal and installation

12.2

to illustration

Remove Remove

1

—

Side door latch

the door trim panel and the access panel. the two inside handle mounting nuts and remove the

12.2

2 handle (see illustration). Remove the three remote control bracket screws. Disconnect the 3 remote control link and remove the remote control and bracket as an

assembly. 4 Unscrew and remove the door lock push button. Disconnect the lock cylinder rod from the door latch. 5 Disconnect the door outside handle rod from the outside handle. 6 Remove the three latch mounting screws and remove the latch 7 from the door. Replace the latch assembly with a new one if it is defective. 8 9

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Side door latch assembly details

between the hinge and the door

When tighten

1

5

all

pillar.

the door is correctly aligned the hinge bolts.

Sliding door

—

in

relation to the

door opening,

adjustment

Refer to illustrations 15.1 and 15.3 adjust the front edge of the door up-or-down, loosen the three lower guide mounting screws (see illustration). Rotate the guide at the lower mounting screw to obtain the required door position, then tighten

To

1

1

3

Refer 1

2

—

Rear door latch to illustration

removal and installation

13.2

Remove the trim panel. Remove the three screws

securing the upper latch to the door (see

illustration).

Disengage the lock rod clip, remove the latch rod from the upper latch and remove the upper latch from the door. To remove the lower latch, remove the four screws and disengage 4 the latch rod from the latch. Withdraw the latch from the door. 3

5

Installation

is

the guide mounting screws. In-or-out adjustment at the upper edge of the door is done by 2 loosening the upper roller retaining nut and moving the roller in or out to obtain a flush fit with the body at the top edge of the door. To adjust the lower front edge of the door either in-or-out, loosen 3 the retaining screws on the guide assembly and move the guide assembly forward to move the door closer to the body and backward to move it away from the body at the pillar post (see illustration).

the reverse of removal.

1

14

Hinged doors

—

removal and installation

6

Sliding door latch

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2 and 16.5 1

Make

a note of the inside

door handle position and remove the

Refer to illustrations 14.2a and 14.2b

mounting screw, handle and trim panel.

removing, installing and adjusting the front, side and rear doors is basically the same. Remove the upper and lower hinge access hole cover plates (see 2

Remove the outside door handle retaining clip and withdraw the 2 handle and shaft as a unit (see illustration). Remove the screws securing the sleeve to the latch and withdraw 3

illustrations).

the sleeve.

1

The procedure

for

Remove the door-to-lower hinge retaining bolts. 3 Have an assistant support the weight of the door and remove the 4 door-to-upper hinge retaining bolts. Detach the door from the vehicle. hinge Install the door and the hinge bolts, but do not tighten the 5 bolts completely at this stage. The vertical position of the door can be adjusted by loosening the 6 Fore-andhinge bolts and moving the door in the required direction. shims removing or aft movement of the door is achieved by adding

4 5

Remove Remove

the rear latch actuating rod assembly from the rear latch. the door lock rod from the lock cylinder and disengage

from the latch lever arm (see illustration). Detach the stop actuating rod from the front 6 it

latch.

the three front latch retaining screws and disconnect the rear latch actuating rod from the latch. Withdraw the latch assembly through the access hole in the door. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. 9 7

Remove

This photo sequence illustrates the repair of a dent and damaged paintwork. The procedure for the repair of a hole similar. Refer to the text for more complete instructions

After removing any adjacent is

Use coarse sandpaper or a sanding disc on a drill motor to remove all paint from the damaged area. Feather the sanded area into the edges of the surrounding paint, using progressively finer

body

trim,

hammer the

The damaged area should then be made

slightly

dent out.

concave

The damaged area should be treated with rust remover prior to application of the body filler. In the case of a rust hole, all rusted sheet metal should be cut

grades of sandpaper

Carefully follow manufacturer's instructions when mixing the body filler so as to have the longest possible working time

minute

during application. Rust holes should be covered with fiberglass screen held in place with dabs of body filler prior to repair

confined areas. surrounding area

away

Use an applicator such as a wood spatula for The filler should protrude slightly above the

intervals.

Shape the

with a surform-type plane. Then, use water and progressively finer grades of sandpaper and a sanding block to wet-sand the area until it is smooth. Feather the edges of the repair area into the surrounding paint. filler

Wet-sand the primer with

fine (approximately

400

grade)

sandpaper until the area is smooth to the touch and blended into the surrounding paint. Use filler paste on minor imperfections

Use spray

or brush applied primer to cover the entire repair area

so that slight imperfections in the surface will be filled in. Prime at least one inch into the area surrounding the repair. Be careful of over-spray when using spray-type primer

After the

filler

compound to ensure smooth. Prior to painting, the

paste has dried, use rubbing

that the surface of the primer

is

surface should be wiped down with a tack rag or lint-free cloth soaked in lacquer thinner

11

which to paint and make sure that adjacent areas are protected from over-spray. Shake the spray paint can thoroughly and apply the top coat to the repair area, building it up by applying several coats, working from the center

Choose

a dry,

warm, breeze-free area

in

After allowing at least fine rubbing

Wax

can

two weeks

compound

now be

for the paint to harden,

use

to blend the area into the original paint.

applied

252

PUSH BUTTON SEE VIEW B

I

I

LOCK CYLINDER ROD

TO FRONT OF BOOY^^

SCREW

SEE VIEW A

(3

UPPER LATCH-

REQ'D)

BUSHING

ROD

REMOTE CONTROL ASSEMBLY

DOOR INSIDE HANDLE SCREW 13

SCREW (3

(1

REQ'D)

LOWER

REQ'D)

LOCK ROD CLIP

ROD SEE VIEWC

REMOTE CONTROL BRACKET

BUSHING

NUT (2

REQ'D)

STRIKER

REMOTE CONTROLASSEMBLY

LOWER, LOCK ROD

VIEW A

11

REMOTE CONTROL VIEW B

LOCK CYLINDER

LOWER LATCH ROD

ROD BUSHING

DOOR HANDLE

LOWER LATCH ASSEMBLY

4—

SCREW REQ'D)

SCREW (2

REQ'D)

STRIKER

LOCK CYLINDER

13.2

VIEWC

Rear door latch and related components

y

REINFORCEMENT PLATE

TO FRONT OF BODY

UPPER hinge-

SECTIONAL V1EW-AA

lower hinge

SECTION-BB ASSEMBLED

14.2a

Front door hinge mounting and adjustment details

SECTIONAL VIEW-AA SHIM INSTALLATION FOR BACK DOOR UPPER HINGES SHOWN SIDE REAR DOOR UPPER HINGE TYPICAL '

SECTIONAL VIEW-BB LOWER HINGES SHOWN SHIM INSTALLATION FOR BACK DOOR TYPICAL SIDE REAR DOOR LOWER HINGE

14.2b

Rear door hinge mounting and adjustment details

254

ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE

polyethylene grease ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE AS

SHOWN

IF

I

NECESSARY.

15.1

Sliding door adjustment details

VIEW A

255

1

16.2

5.3

Sliding door guides

Sliding door latch

assembly

and

—

rollers

exploded view

256

16.5

Sliding door latch operating rod details

Chapter

1

7

Sliding door

—

removal and installation

1

Remove

the nuts on the inside of the vehicle and the two screws on the outside of the vehicle that retain the center track shield, then detach the shield. Remove the lower guide check screws and detach the check. 2 3 Open the door and have an assistant support it. 4 Mark the location of the upper guide bracket on the door. Remove the three retaining screws and detach the upper guide 5 bracket. Carefully separate the door from the vehicle. 6 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to adjust the door by referring to the appropriate Section. 1

257

Body

11

8

Hood

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 18.3a and 18.3b 1

2

3

Raise the hood and prop it in the open position. Place an old blanket below the rear of the hood to protect the paint. Remove the screws retaining the hinges to the hood (see

illustrations).

4 5

Carefully detach the hood from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal.

VIEW A 18.3a

Hood and hinge assembly

(early

models)

258

Chapter

To adjust the position of the hood after installation, loosen the hinge screws and move the hood to the required position. When the hood 6

1 is

adjusted correctly, tighten the hinge screws.

19

Radiator

Refer

1973)

grille (thru

to illustration

—

it

removal and installation

in

2

Remove

the headlight doors, headlights and ring assemblies (see

Chapter 1 2). Remove the 3

five

screws securing the bottom edge of the

grille to

the front body member (see illustration). 4 Remove the single screw attaching the hood latch support to the top edge of the grille. Unplug the parking light wires at the connectors. 5 Remove the screws securing the grille to the upper right and left 6 support brackets and detach the grille. Installation is the reverse of removal. 7

19.3

Raise the hood and support

Body

11

the open position.

\

18.3b

Hood and hinge assembly

HOOD

(later

models)

ASSIST SPRING

HOOD LATCH Support

GRILLE UPPER SUPPORT

NUT AND RETAINER

SUPPORT ROO

SUPPORT ROO CLIP

19.3

V

Radiator

grille

—

early

models

y

Chapter

20

Radiator

Refer 1

grille

to illustration

(1974 and

later)

-

removal and installation

21

Front fenders (later models only)

Refer

20.2

Raise the hood and support it in the open position. Remove the two center screws securing the grille to the support

2 bracket (see illustration). Remove the six screws from the bottom of the grille. 3 4 Remove the nine screws located on the upper flange of the which is attached to the radiator upper support and gussets. Detach the grille. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6

grille,

259

Body

11

to illustration

in the previous Section. in Section 22. described Remove the front bumper as Remove the screws securing the front of the fender to the lower 4 radiator grille panel (see illustration).

2 3

First

remove the

radiator grille as described

RADIATOR GRILLE OPENING lower panel

21.4

are bolted in position

fairly

U-NUT

Radiator

models

easy to remove, assuming that the mounting bolts are not badly corroded. If they are it will be necessary to cut them off with a bolt shearing tool or a hammer and cold chisel.

and are

SPRING NUT

20.2

removal and installation

21.4

front fenders on later Econoline

The

1

-

grille

—

later

models

Bolt-on front fenders used on later models

—

exploded view

260

nut and washer assembly (2 EACH SIDE)

FRONT BUMPER GUARD AND PAD ASSEMBLY

FRONT BUMPER 22.1

Front

bumper assembly

Chapter Remove

the screws securing the front of the fender to the lower radiator grille panel. Remove the three screws securing the lower edge of the fender 6 1 the wheel housing. to Remove the lower rear mounting screws and shims. 7 Open the front door and remove the upper rear mounting screw 8 and shims. Remove the two screws securing the front edge of the fender to 9

5

the radiator support. 10 Remove the remaining three screws and shims securing the top of the fender to the body and detach the fender. 1 Installation is the reverse of removal.

261

Body

11

22

Front and rear bumpers

—

removal and installation

and 22.3 bumper, remove the

Refer to illustrations 22.

7

To detach the front bumper bar to the ends the bumper (see illustration). 1

ing the

four nuts and bolts secur-

of the chassis

members and remove

the vehicle is equipped with bumper gua'-ds, they are retained by the inner bolt on each side of the bumper. The rear bumper is detached by removing the four bolts securing 3 the bumper bar to the mounting brackets (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. 4

2

If

11

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Contents Electrical troubleshooting

—

general information Front and rear side marker lights — bulb replacement Front parking and turn signal lights — bulb replacement Fuses — general information Fusible link — testing, removal and installation General information

2

....

Hazard warning light flasher unit — removal and installation Headlight alignment Headlight dimmer switch — removal and installation Headlight switch — removal and installation Headlight sealed beam — removal and installation Horn — troubleshooting and repair Ignition switch — removal and installation Instrument panel cluster — removal and installation Rear light cluster — removal and installation Seat belt/starter interlock system — general information .... Speedometer cable — removal and installation

9 8

19 3 1

14 5 7

Stop light switch — removal and installation 11 Turn signal circuit — troubleshooting and repair 30 Turn signal flasher unit — removal and installation 13 Turn signal switch — removal and installation 12 Windshield washer nozzles — adjustment 27 Windshield washer reservoir and pump — removal and installation 28 Windshield wiper arm — removal and installation 21 Windshield wiper blades — removal and installation 20 Windshield wiper mechanism — troubleshooting and repair 22 Windshield wiper motor — disassembly, inspection and reassembly 26 Windshield wiper motor — removal and installation 23 Windshield wiper pivot shafts and link assembly — removal and installation 24 Windshield wiper switch — removal and installation 25 Wiring diagrams See end of Manual .

6

4

29 17 16 10 18 15

Specifications

Fuses and

circuit

breakers

Circuit

Headlights Tail, marker, license, parking lights and horns •

.

Turn signal, back-up lights Windshield wiper system Hazard warning and stop lights Courtesy lights Heater and/or A/C Instrument panel lights Auxiliary heater (same fuse as heater) Radio Air conditioner Auxiliary air condiioner (same fuse as heater)

School bus warning Auxiliary fuel tank

lights

Speed control Auxiliary battery

.

Location

Circuit protection

Integral with lighting

amp CB amp CB 5 amp fuse 7.5 amp CB 20 amp fuse 5 amp fuse 30 amp fuse 3 amp fuse 30 amp fuse 7.5 amp fuse 30 amp fuse and 30 amp fuse 20 amp CB 7.5 amp fuse 5 amp fuse 20 amp fuse

switch Integral with lighting switch Fuse panel Fuse pane Fuse pane Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Fuse panel Cartridge in-line fuse Fuse panel

1

8

1

5

1 1

1 1

Buib specifications Light description

Candlepower (C) Wattage (W)

Trade number

32C 12C 2C 12C

1156 105 1895 105

35W

441 5A

1.5C

53X

or

Back-up light Cargo light Clock

Dome Amber Amber

light

fog light fog light switch

fuse link

.

1

Chapter 12

263

Chassis electrical system

Light description

Candlepower (C) Wattage (W)

Trade number

32C 2C

1157 1895 6012

or

Front parking light and turn signal

Handbrake

signal

50 and

Headlight Instrument panel high beam indicator, brake warning, oil and generator indicators, turn

40W

Parking brake release indicator License plate light

4C

1895 257 1155

Radio pilot light Rear tail/stop/turn signal

1.9C

1891

32C

1157 4405

1

signal indicators

Stoplight (4.4

in

and seat

belt

warning

2C

light

1C

30W

diameter)

30

General information

The chassis electrical system is a 1 2-volt, negative ground system. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/ charged by the alternator (see Chapter 5). This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various lights and electrical components not directly associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator, voltage regulator and the starter is

included in Chapter 5. the chassis It should be emphasized that whenever work is done on electrical system the negative battery cable should be disconnected

motor

is

to

40

nect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There should be no load in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side 3 side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a to short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where insulation has rubbed off a wire. The same test can be performed on other components of the circuit, including the switch. A ground check should be done to see if a component is grounded properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light such as a continuity tester to a known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is

from the battery.

not good. A continuity check

—

general information

typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, etc. relevant to that component and the wiring

A

and

and connectors that connect the components the chassis. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, complete wiring diagams of each model are included at the end of this to both the battery

Chapter. Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first thoroughly study the appropriate diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to that circuit at are operating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail one time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or ground connection, as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse and ground connections. This can be confirmed by referring to the fuse box and

ground distribution diagrams in this Chapter. Often, electrical problems stem from simple causes, such as loose Prior to or corroded connections, a blown fuse or melted fusible link. any electrical troubleshooting, always visually check the condition of the fuses, wires and connections of the problem circuit. utilized, use the diagrams to If testing instruments are going to be

performed

is

to see

if

a circuit, section of circuit

passing electricity properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light such as a continuity tester to one end of the circuit being tested and the other lead to the other end of the circuit. If the bulb goes on, there is continuity, which means the circuit is passing electricity properly. Switches or individual

Electrical troubleshooting

97

Ft-lbs

Torque specifications 2 Steering wheel nut

acid battery, which

or

component

can be checked

Remember

in

that

the

all

is

same way.

electrical circuits are

composed

running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, etc. to the electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc). From there the batit is run to the car body (ground) where it is passed back to tery. Any electrical problem is basically an interruption in the flow of electricity from the battery to the component and back to the battery.

tricity

Fusible link

—

testing, removal

Refer to illustration 1

A

and

installation

3.

used to protect the alternator from overload and the wiring harness connecting the starter relay and Bat

fusible link

is

located in terminal on the alternator (see illustration).

is

plah ahead of time where you will nake the necessary connections •in o;der to ^accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. The basic; tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit also tester or voltmeter (a 1 2 volt bulb with a set of test leads can

be used), a continuity tester (which includes a bulb, battery and set breaker incorof test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit porated, which can be used to bypass electrical components. Voitage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning negative properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the lead to battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other battery the to nearest a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably reaching that point, is voltage or fuse. If the bulb of the tester goes on, which means the part of the circuit between that connector and the in the same battery is problem-free. Continue checking along the circuit present, the probfashion. When you reach a point where no voltage is there and the last good test point. Most of the time

lem lies between that some cirthe problem is due to a loose connecton. Keep in mind is in the Accessory cuits only receive voltage when the ignition key or

Run position. A method of finding shorts

in

a circuit

is

to

remove the fuse and con-

basically of elec-

3.1

Fusible link location

264

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

4

Removing the headlight rim

4.1

2

If

an alternator problem develops,

first

(early

make

model)

4.4

Disconnecting the wires from the sealed

unit

sure that the battery

TIGHTEN SCREW TO RAISE BEAM. LOOSEN SCREW TO LOWER BEAM.

charged and the terminals are clean. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the Bat terminal at the rear 3 of the alternator. No reading indicates that the fusible link has probably 1burned out. Check the link visually (look for burned, swollen and melted is

beam

fully

insulation).

4

To

install a

new

fusible link, disconnect the

ground cable from the

5battery. 5 Disconnect the fusible link eyelet terminal from the battery terminal on the starter relay. 6 Cut the fusible link and the splices from the wires to which it is attached. 7 Splice and solder the new fusible link to the wire from which the old link was cut. Wrap the splice with electrical tape. Reconnect the eyelet terminal to the battery terminal on the starter 8 relay.

9

Reconnect the battery ground cable.

Headlight sealed

Refer

beam — removal and

to illustrations 4.

installation

and 4.4

1

Thru 1977 Remove the two screws

1

securing the headlight rim to the fender,

then detach the headlight rim (see illustration). 2 Remove the three screws securing the sealed

beam

unit retaining

ring to the adjusting ring.

3 4

Rotate the retaining ring to disengage it from the adjusting screws. Pull out the sealed beam and disconnect the wiring harness plug

TIGHTEN SCREW TO SWING BEAM RIGHT. LOOSEN SCREW TO SWING BEAM LEFT

(see illustration).

5

The sealed beam

6

Installation

is

is

now

the reverse of removal.

whenever the sealed beam is

free. It

is

recommended

that

5.7

Headlight

changed, the headlight alignment checked. Further information will be found in Section 5.

1978 and

unit

is

later

(early

or board.

model vehicles have a rectangular headlight instead of a round one. The procedure above is correct, but note that the retaining ring on later models is attached with four screws, all of which must be removed to detach the ring. Later

beam

The wall

or

''

BULB RETAINING

SCREWS adjusting screw locations

models)

board must be

at a right

angle to the centerline

of the vehicle.

3

Draw

a vertical line

on the board

or wall in line with the centerline

of the vehicle.

4 Rock the vehicle to settle the suspension components, then measure the height between the ground and the center of the headlights. 5

Headlight alignment

Draw a horizontal line across the board or wall at this measured On this horizontal line, make a vertical line on either side of

height.

Refer

to illustration

5.7

1 The headlights should be aligned by a shop equipped with special optical equipment, but the following procedure can be used to temporarily align them until they can be checked by a professional.

2

Position the vehicle on level ground 10 feet

in

front of a dark wall

the vertical centerline, equal to the distance between the center of each light and the center of the vehicle. 6 Remove the headlight rims and switch the headlights to high beam. 7 By careful adjusting of the horizontal and vertical adjusting screws

on each

light (see illustration), align

the centers of each beam with the vertical lines which were previously marked on the horizontal line

1

Chapter 12

6.2

Light switch

265

Chassis electrical system

knob removal button location

Removing the

8.2

front parking/turn signal bulb

8

9

9.1

Removing

a side

marker lens and bulb holder

10

10.1

Removing the

rear light cluster lens

(the cross shaped marks should be at the center of each beam). Rock the vehicle on its suspension again and check that the beams return to the correct positions. At the same time, check the operation

of the

dimmer switch, then

install

the headlight rims.

8

Front parking and turn signal lights

—

bulb replacement

Refer to illustration 8.2

6

Headlight switch

—

removal and

installation 1

2

Refer

to illustration

6.2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Working through the access hole in the underside of the instrument 2 panel, press the release button using a small screwdriver (see illustration) and remove the switch knob and shaft. Remove the bezel nut and remove the switch body from behind 3 the instrument panel. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

Remove Remove

the two mounting screws and detach the lens. the bulb from the holder by pushing it in and turning

it

counterclockwise (see illustration). When installing the lens, do not overtighten the screws. 3

1

4

Installation

is

Front and rear side marker lights

Refer to illustration

the reverse of removal. 1

7

Headlight dimmer switch

—

2

removal and installation

just

bulb replacement

9.

two mounting screws and withdraw the lens from the enough to disengage the bulb holder (see illustration).

Remove

body

—

the

Replace the bulb

if

necessary and position the bulb holder

in

the

lens.

3

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Carefully pull back the carpet from around the dimmer switch, 2 removing the scuff plate and cowl trim screws if necessary. Remove the two screws securing the dimmer switch to the mount3

Attach the lens to the body. Do not overtighten the screws.

1

ing bracket.

the switch forward and disconnect the wiring harness connector from the rear of the switch. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5

4

Move

Rear Refer 1

light cluster

to illustrations

Remove

illustration).

the

—

removal and installation

10.1,

10.2 and 10.4

two mounting screws and

pull

out the lens unit (see

266

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

“ I.

10.2

Disengaging the bulb holder from the rear light housing

10.4

Removing the

license plate bulb holder

flange 1

connector] LOCK ING

NVlON

mechanism ^ SWI TCh with Side terminals I

AAShEFI

PAPT OF WIPING ASSEVBLV

11.2

Stop

switch components

light

—

exploded view

Twist the bulb holders to disengage them from the lens unit (see

2

illustration).

Replace any burned out bulbs and

3

install

the bulb holders and lens

unit.

4 The rear license plate light bulb is located inside the left rear door and can be replaced by simply pulling the bulb holder out of the light

assembly (see

1

Stop

light

1

1

2

Stop

light

switch used on

earlier vehicles

3 Withdraw the hairpin clip and slide the stop light switch, the pushrod, nylon washers and bushings away from the brake pedal. 4 The switch can now be detached. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: On earlier models the stop light switch is screwed into the brake pedal support bracket (see illustration).

illustration).

switch

—

12

Turn signal switch

to illustrations

1 1

.2

—

removal and installation

removal and installation Refer

Refer

1.5

and 11.5

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the wires at the switch connector (see

to illustrations 12.4,

12.6,

12.7 and 12.8

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. earlier models, remove the horn button from the center of the steering wheel. On later models, remove the two screws from the back 1

2

illustration).

12.5,

On

Chapter 12

12.4

267

Chassis electrical system

Removing the steering column wiring harness cover Steering column wiring harness connector details

12.5

12.6

Unscrewing the turn

12.7

signal lever

Removing the

turn signal switch

screws

of the horn pad, detach the pad and disconnect the wires. Mark the steering wheel hub and shaft so the steering wheel can 3 be reinstalled in the same position on the shaft. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and pull the wheel off the shaft with a puller. Note: Do not hammer on the end of the shaft to remove the steering wheel. Remove the wiring harness cover from the steering column (see 4 illustration).

Make a careful note of the color code and location of each wire 5 before disconnecting the wires from the connector plug (see illustration). Remove the turn signal switch lever by unscrewing it from the 6 switch (see

Remove

7

illustration).

the screws securing the switch to the steering column

(see illustration). Separate the turn signal and hazard warning switch from the 8

steering

The switch

9 if

column

it

is

is

(see illustration).

not repairable and must be replaced with a

defective.

0 Installation is the reverse of removal, be sure wheel nut to the specified torque. 1

new one

to tighten the steering

12.8

Withdrawing the turn signal switch assembly from the column

268 CABLE ASSEMBLY SPEtDfJMf TtP ORIVtN

GEAR RCTAINtR

SPEEDOMETER SHAFT MOUNTING CLIP

MajNTiNG BOLT

PRESS FLAT SURFACE AND PULL Cable away from head

SPEEDOMETER CABl

15.1

Later type

SPFEDCMFTER ORI/EN GEAR

E

speedometer cable connector 1

5.3

Speedometer cable-to-transmission mounting

details

AMMETER

temperature gauge

16 2 a .

Later

cluster

fasten belts

TURN INDICATOR LAMP R M

general illumination lamps

L

H TURN

INDICATOR LAMP

—

model instrument exploded view

Chapter 12

269

Chassis electrical system the cable.

13

Turn signal flasher unit

—

removal and installation

The turn signal flasher unit is located behind the instrument panel, which must be removed first (refer to the appropriate Section). To replace the flasher unit, disconnect the wire connector from 2 the terminals and remove it from the mounting clip or bracket. Make sure that the new flasher unit has the same color code and 31 part number as the original. 1

14

Hazard warning

light flasher unit

—

the lower part of the broken inner cable from the end of the outer cable. Installation of the inner cable is the reverse of removal. 7 Lightly lubricate the inner cable and insert it into the outer cable. 8 When the cable is nearly all the way in, turn it to ensure that the squared end engages with the speedometer driven gear.

removal and installation

Outer cable Working behind the instrument panel, disconnect the cable from 9 the rear of the speedometer head. 10 Push the outer cable and grommet through the opening in the dashboard panel. Raise the vehicle and, working underneath, detach the cable from all of the retaining clips. 12 Disconnect the cable from the transmission as described above and withdraw it from under the vehicle. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. 1

The hazard warning signal unit

and the removal and

that described

5

light flasher unit is

in

mounted adjacent

installation

procedure

is

to the turn

the

same as

the previous Section.

Speedometer cable

—

Remove

6

1

removal and installation

16 Refer

to illustration

15.1

Instrument panel cluster

—

removal and installation

and 15.3 to illustrations 16.2a,

Inner cable

Refer

Working behind the instrument panel, disconnect the cable from the rear of the speedometer head (see illustration). Carefully pull the inner cable out from the upper end of the outer 2

16.9 and

16.

16.2b, 16.5a, 16.5b, 16.5c, 16.7a, 16.7b,

10

1

cable. If the inner cable is broken, raise the vehicle and, working 3 underneath, remove the bolt securing the speedometer cable mounting clip to the transmission (see illustration). Remove the speedometer cable shaft and driven gear from the 4

transmission. Remove the driven gear retainer and the driven gear and shaft from 5

16.2b

16.5b

Removing the instrument

cluster retaining

screws

Disconnecting the voltage regulator from the rear of the Instrument cluster

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the screws securing the instrument cluster assembly

to 2 illustrations). the dash panel (see Withdraw the panel just enough to enable the speedometer cable 3 to be disconnected from the rear of the panel. Disconnect the wiring harness multi-plug connector and detach 4

the instrument panel cluster. Unsnap the voltage regulator flasher unit and radio connector from 5 the rear of the cover (see illustrations).

After the instrument cluster is pulled out of the dash, the flasher connector can be detached

16.5a

16.5c

Removing the

flasher unit from the rear of the

instrument cluster

270

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TEMP GAUGE

PRINTED CIRCUIT

PRINTED CIRCUIT

NSTRUMENT CLUSTER FUEL GAUGE

FLASHER UNIT CIGAR light

INSTRUMENT VOLTAGE

REGULATOR

EMERGENCY

CHARGE INDICATOR

FLASHER

CLUSTER FEED

TURN SIGNAL

HEADLIGHT SWITCH

-

WIPER SWITCH

16.7a

16.7b

Removing an instrument

IGNITION SWITCH

Instrument cluster components (early model)

cluster bulb

16.9

6

Remove

Switch panel assembly components view (later models)

—

exploded

the nuts retaining the gauges to the circuit board and

remove the gauges. 7 Remove all the indicator and light bulb holders from the rear of the housing by turning them counterclockwise (see illustrations). 8 Installation of the printed circuit and instrument cluster is the reverse of removal.

The switch panel, located on the left side of the instrument panel cluster, can be withdrawn after removing the mounting screws (see 9

illustration).

0 To remove the panel completely, disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear of the panel switches (see illustration) and remove the 1

16.10

Removing the plug connectors from the switch panel

(later

models)

rear of the

panel from the vehicle. 1 1 Installation is the reverse of removal.

271

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

IGNITION cylinder IN ON POSITION

RELEASE-PIN HOLE

Location of the lock cylinder retaining pin on

17.11a

Ignition lock release hole (early models)

17.1

non-tilt steering

LAST TOOTH ON GEAR MUST ENGAGE LAST

1

column

LOWER ACUTATOR

NOTCH ON ACTUATOR FOR CORRECT INSTALLATION UPPER

ACTUATOR MOUNTING SCREW 12 REO DI

IGNITION

DRIVE GEAR

ROD

STEERING WHEEL locking pin UPPER COVER CASTING

SNAP RING

LOCK CYLINDER

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH

SPRING CLIP

17.11b

DRIVE GEAR

columns IGNITION

HAZARD

ROD

flasher switch

COVER casting MOUNTING SCREW (4 REO DI

The lock cylinder on tilt steering

retaining pin is

adjacent to the

hazard warning switch

ALLEN SCREW RETAINER ASSEMBLY (3 REO DI TO RELEASE LOCK CYLINDER INSERT WIRE PIN IN HOLE (KEY IN ON POSITION AND SHIFT LEVER IN PARK

QUICK

I

COUPLER

7

Igpition

Refer

—

switch

To remove the complete switch assembly from the instrument panel on earlier models, remove the bezel nut retaining the switch to the panel, withdraw the switch from the rear of the panel and discon6

removal and installation

to illustrations 17.1,

17.11a and 17.11b

Thru 1977 lock barrel of the ignition switch, insert the ignition key into the switch and insert a piece of wire into the hole in the front of the barrel (see illustration). Push the wire in and turn the key counterclockwise, past the Acces2 sory position, grip the key and withdraw the lock barrel from the switch 1

To remove the

assembly. The lock barrel 3

is

one if it is defective. To install the lock 4

not repairable and must be replaced with a barrel, insert the

key and turn

it

to the

new

Accessory

position.

switch assembly until it is composition. Remove the pletely seated and then turn the key to the Lock and switch. wire and turn the key to check the operation of the lock 5

Push the

barrel

and key

into the

nect the wiring harness from the rear of the switch. On later models the switch can be removed after withdrawing the 7 switch panel as described in the previous Section.

1978 and

later

On later models the switch is attached to the steering column. 8 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the steering wheel as described in Section 12. 9 10 Insert the key into the switch and turn it to the On position. On automatic transmission models, place the gear selector lever in Park. Depress the lock cylinder retaining pin with a small punch or a the lock cylinder. On non-tilt steering col1 /8-inch drill bit and pull out umns, the pin is near the base of the lock cylinder (see illustration). On tilt steering columns, the retaining pin is adjacent to the hazard warning switch (see illustration). 1

1

272

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

1

1

20.5

19.1

12 To

Detaching the wiper blade

(later

type shown)

Fuse panel location (early model shown)

the switch, turn the cylinder to the On position and pin, then insert the cylinder into the housing in the flange casting. 3 Make sure that it is completely seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the Off position, which permits the install

depress the retaining

retaining pin to extend into the cylinder casting hole.

14 Turn the key to all positions to make sure it works correctly. 5 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. When the installation is complete, check to see that the engine starts in Park and Neutral and doesn't start in Drive or Reverse.

18

Seat belt/starter interlock system

—

general information

21 This system is installed on later models and is designed to prevent operation of the vehicle unless the front seat belts have been fastened. If either of the front seats is occupied and the seat belts have not 2 20 been fastened, then as the ignition key is turned to the (ignition on) 1

21.3

Replacing the wiper arm

(later

type shown)

II

position, a warning light will flash

and a buzzer will sound. the warning is ignored, the starter will not operate even when the key is turned to the Start position. 4 If the system fails to work, first check the fuse and then make sure the wires and connections are in good condition. 3

If

2 Depress the tab on the saddle to release the top stud and blade from the arm.

Bayonet type — Anco 22 3 To remove an Anco

blade, press

in

on the tab and

pull

the

pull

the blade

from the arm. 1

Fuses

9

—

Saddle pin type — Trico 4 To remove a pin type Trico blade, insert a screwdriver spring release opening of the blade saddle, depress the spring pull the blade from the arm.

general information

Refer to illustration

1

9.1

The fuse panel on early models is located on the right side of the steering column on a bracket attached to the pedal support (see illustra1

On

models, the fuse box is on the left side of the steering column, under the instrument panel. Most of the electrical circuits are protected by fuses. If a fuse 2 blows, always try to find the cause and correct it before installing another fuse. Caution: Never bypass a fuse with a piece of wire or other metal objects. Serious damage to the circuit could occur. tion).

later

Spring

clip

clip

and

type

5

To remove

pin

and remove the blade (see

this later

type blade, pry the C-clip from the wiper arm

Windshield wiper arm Refer

into the

to illustration

—

illustration).

removal and installation

21.3

Before removing a wiper arm, turn the windshield wiper switch off to make sure the arms are in the normal parked position, parallel to the bottom of the windshield. 2 To remove the arm, swing it away from the windshield, depress the spring clips in the wiper arm boss and pull the arm off the spindle. 3 When installing the arm, position it in the parked position and push the boss onto the spindle (see illustration). 1

Windshield wiper blades

—

on and

removal and installation

Refer to illustration 20.5

The windshield wiper blades may be one

two

types. With the bayonet type, the blade saddle slides over the end of the arm and is engaged by a locking stud. With the side saddle pin type, a pin on the

arm indexes loaded

of

into the side of the blade saddle

clip in

and engages

Windshield wiper mechanism

the saddle.

Bayonet type — Trico 1 To remove a Trico blade, press down on the arm top stud.

a spring

to

disengage the

—

troubleshooting and repair

the windshield wipers fail to operate, or work very slowly, check the terminals on the motor for loose connections and make sure that 1

If

Chapter 12

273

Chassis electrical system

24

25

23 24.2

Windshield wiper motor and linkage

the insulation on the wires is not cracked or broken, causing a short circuit. If the wires are in good condition, check the current the motor is drawing by connecting an ammeter in series in the circuit and turning on the wiper switch. Current draw should be from 2.3 to 3.1 amps. make sure that the If no current is passing through the motor, 2

switch is operating correctly. blades If the wiper motor draws excessive current, check the wiper 3 cover gearbox the for freedom of movement. If they are free, check and gear assembly for damage. the motor draws very little current, make sure that the battery bearing is fully charged. Check the brush gear and see if the brushes are on the commutator. If not, check the brushes for freedom of movement and, if necessary, replace the tension springs. If the brushes are

4

If

very worn they should be replaced.

Windshield wiper motor

—

and

link

assembly

—

removal

installation

Refer to illustration 24.2 the wiper arms and blades as described in Section 21. Working from under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, remove 2 the six screws retaining the pivot shaft assemblies (see illustration). Remove the clip securing the linkage arm to the motor and 3 withdraw the linkage and pivot shafts from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal. Lubricate all moving parts 4 1

Remove

with

light oil.

On later models, make sure that the windshield 5 correctly installed on the pivot shafts.

Windshield wiper switch

removal and installation

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the wiper motor feed wires at the main harness 2 connector. Remove the clip securing the motor drive arm to the linkage arm 3 and disconnect the motor from the linkage. Remove the bracket mounting bolts and lift out the motor and 4 bracket. bracket assembly. If the motor is to be dismantled, remove the arm must drive the Installation is the reverse of removal. Note that 5 — in the opposite direcbe attached to the motor in the parked position tion to the ground strap. 1

Windshield wiper pivot shafts and

—

washer

lines are

removal and installation

Econoline models, remove the small retaining screw on the side of the wiper control knob and pull off the knob. Remove the bezel nut securing the switch to the instrument panel, 2 withdraw the switch from the rear of the panel and disconnect the 1

On

earlier

wires.

models, remove the switch panel from the main instrument panel as described in Section 16. Withdraw the panel far enough to remove the two wiper switch 4 retaining screws, pull off the control knob and remove the switch. Installation of either type of switch is the reverse of removal. 5 3

On

later

274

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

OUTPUT ARM SPRING WASHER

RETAINING NUT

SPACER WASHER

OUTPUT ARM

26.1

/’O" RING

Windshield wiper nnotor — exploded view

components PARK SWITCH TO PARKING LEVER PIN

3

26

BRUSH PLATE AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY

armature

INSULATOR SLEEVE

1

MOTOR HOUSING AND MAGNET ASSEMBLY

1

1

MOTOR HOUSING ATTACHING BOLTS

DRY LUBE HERE

MOTOR ASSEMBLY Windshield wiper motor and reassembly Refer

disassembly, inspection

to illustration 26.

Remove

1

—

the gear cover retaining screws and detach the ground

ALIGN

terminal and cover (see illustration). Carefully remove the idler gear and pinion retainer. 2

RETAINING RING

out the idler gear and pinion and recover the thrust washer. 4 Remove the two long motor through-bolts and separate the hous27 ing, switch terminal insulator sleeve and armature. Mark the position of the output arm relative to the shaft to ensure 5 correct reassembly. Remove the output arm retaining nut, output arm, spring washer, 6 flat washer, output gearshaft assembly, thrust washer and parking

3

Lift

28

switch lever and washer in that order. Remove the brushes and brush springs. 7 Remove the brushplate and switch assembly and withdraw the 8 switch contact-to-parking lever pin from the gear housing. Thoroughly clean all parts and then inspect the gear housing for 9

cracks, distortion and damage. 0 Carefully check all shafts, brushes and gears for signs of scoring

and damage. 1 If the brushes are worn, replace them with new ones. 2 Any serious problem with the armature, such as a breakdown insulation, means a new motor is required. 1 3 Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Windshield washer nozzles

To

—

in

HAND PRESS COMPONENTS TOGETHER 28.3

on the motor body is lined up with the 6 Press on the motor retaining ring and sing the removal procedure.

29

adjustment

the assembly by rever-

troubleshooting and repair

the horn sounds bad or fails completely, check the wire leading to the horn plug located on the body panel next to the horn itself. Also, make sure that the wire connection at the horn terminal is clean and secure. 1

If

2

The horn must be securely mounted and nothing should be con-

tacting the horn body. If the fault is not an external one, remove the horn cover 3 and check the leads inside the horn. If they are sound, check the contacts. If they

it

may

30

file

and douse them with

Windshield washer reservoir and

and Refer

to illustration

pump — removal

—

troubleshooting and repair

If

2 Examine the turn signal light bulbs, both front and rear, for broken filaments.

28.3

Remove Remove

the wiring connector plug and washer hose. 2 the retaining screws and detach the washer and motor assembly from the left side fender apron. To remove the pump motor from the reservoir, pry out the retaining 3 pull

the motor out of the reservoir recess (see

The motor and pump assembly cannot be repaired. defective they must be replaced with new ones. installing the

3

If

4

If

the external flashers are working, but either of the internal flasher warning lights have ceased to function, check the filaments in the warning light bulbs. circuit

a flasher bulb

is

motor

in

the reservoir,

make

If

they are

sure the projection

sound but does not work, check

all

the flasher

connections.

With the ignition switch on, make sure the correct voltage is 5 reaching the flasher unit by connecting a voltmeter between the positive terminal and ground.

illustration).

4

When

circuit

the flasher unit fails to operate, or flashes very slowly or rapidly, check the turn signal circuit before assuming that the flasher is defective.

installation

and carefully

Turn signal

be crimped closed. 1

5

—

install

adjust the

too hard or

ring

Horn

slot in the reservoir.

are burned or dirty, clean them with a fine contact cleaner.

washer nozzles, carefully bend the nozzle in the required direction with a needle nose pliers. Do not squeeze the nozzle

1

Windshield washer reservoir motor installation details

voltage is present at the unit, connect the two flasher unit terminals together and operate the turn signal switch. If one of the flasher warning lights comes on, the flasher unit must be replaced- with a new one. If

3

275 Component

Location

Component

Location

C-1 6

H-34

Neutral start switch Natural start & back-up lamp switch (auto trans) Oil pressure

Air conditioner

Blower motor Blower motor & clutch control switch Clutch solenoid

High blower relay

Blower motor resistor Thermostat switch Alternator

E-34 J-35

E-35 C-1

1

B-10

Regulator Ambient sensor switch

G-1

Back-up lamps Back-up lamp switch Carburetor solenoid

Cargo lamp

Constant voltage regulator Distributor

J-2

Dome lamp

H-54

Cigar lighter illumination lamp Cigar lighter Cluster illumination lamps

front

front (cargo)

rear

Dual brake warning lamp Dual brake warning switch

ESC

solenoid

vacuum

valve

Electronic dist. modulator

Emergency warning flasher Emergency warning switch Engine temperature switch Fuel

LH

front

RH

front

LH

rear

RH

rear

F-3 2

H-32 K-56 K-57 K-59 K-58

Speedo sensor

J-1

motor relay motor Stop lamp switch Stop & turn signal lamps LH

C-5 H-5

Starter Starter

1

gauge

G-53 & C-57 G-53 & H-57 F-57 & F-53 53 & E-57 H-18

J-51

J-18 K-13 G-1 D-53 C-51 J-20

solenoid

vacuum

G-9 & G-1 valve

Temperature gauge

E-20

Transmission sensor switch Turn signal flasher Turn signal indicator lamps

S-53 & C-27

K-1 4

F-50 F-50

RH Turn signal switch

C-50

Warning lamps

C-59 A-59 A-57

Flasher

Relay Switch Windshield

Headlamps

Washer motor pump

Switch

E-40 F-40 C-41

Wiper motor Wiper switch

H-25 J-24 D-24

LH

J-41

Washer switch

E-25

RH

J-42

Dimmer

switch

Hi-beam indicator lamp

2

K-1 5

LH

E-21 J-21

Fuel sender

J-52

Suppression capacitor

TRS

1

D-48

RH

Door switches LH front

RH RH RH

^adio receiver ^adio speaker School bus warning lamps

D-14 D-13 K-27

J-54 E-42 E-53 F-43 D-2

J-46 J-49

RH

1

F-27 C-2 J-17

Battery

E-22 J-22 J-23 E-23

Sender (gauges) Switch (lights) Warning lamps ^ark & turn signal lamps LH

G-36 G-34

Alternator indicator

Ammeter

Gauge

F-28

Heater Auxiliary

Auxiliary switch

Blower motor Blower motor resistor Thermostat switch Switch Horn Standard Switch

J-31 E-31

D-30 E-30 Wiring color key Primary colors

D-32 H-30

BK BR

Black

Brown Red

RPO

J-44 J-44 J-45

Pink

PK

Relay

G-44

Orange

0

F-3

Yellow

Ignition switch

C-20

Green

Y G

License lamp

J-51

Blue

B

Gray White

W

Violet

V

Ignition coil

Marker lamps LH front

RH

front

LH

rear

RH

rear

J-47 J-48 J-50 J-53

Wiring diagram key


-
6( SlAtT »UN. PAIMUO CItCyll. C 714 tMllH $ CHAtK SlAtT tUN » AlfftMATIt tiSuiATIt. C 710 lAjlM 6A6(Sl CmAIS{ STAII tUN. ALfltNATIt. C 701 tMifM SA6( S CHAt6( STAtT 0UN. tBlNT(0 CItCUM, C 714 IhIIh 6A6f $

t

IK

ruse i ih« s)) > I 15? T

I

I

|

HitN 4 SA((0 CIMTBIL. HltN tClAV. lllUAlNArilN lANt$ . S 707

PtUKTIlN

4

C0A¥(Al(NC(

.

C

115

C

101

PIITiCtllN 4 CIAVCnKaCC. C 101 (iTCtllB LUHTIN6. S'50l ^ CiTCeilt LllHttNi, HO/lP OlAAEt su, C-405

^ ElTCtllt LI6HTIN6. enCBKNCV HAtAlNI FLASH(t.

lll

C

START Run, ENISSIIN CINTRIl SILENIIO. C-735 START Run. ThRITTlE ACTuaT|R, C*737 PRITECTIOn 4 CONVENIENCE. SEAT lElT UARNINI. C 337 CHARGE START RUN. FUEL TANK SELECTOR Su.. C'77S HEATER ILIUER SWITCH OR A/C hIOE ShMCh. C-lllI — 350 H-0K -k MINOSHIEIO/WIPER C-314 EiTERIIR LI6HTIN6, TuRN SI6NAL FlAShER. C-314 EXTERIOR LI6HTIN6. BACK UP LAHP SwITCh, C-305 CHARGE CMAR6E

^ F

-I 135 AMP

F

-11

T

———

I

15 ANP

^737

-

(

7.5 AHP

10

170 AHP

107

J

'65 6R -65 6R

F-5 •

C

'A RADIO. C-301

17

IK -6R F

WASHER. w/wPR SwUCm

1

t>Jl> F

4

I

7.5 AHP C.B.

—S •

WINOSHIELO/WIPER

4

-A WlNOSHlELO/WlPEfi

4

WASHER. W/wPR HOTOR C‘603 washer. H/WPR SWITCH C-607

I

I

C-718

HORN

4

SPEED CInTROl. SPEED CINTRIi ahPlIFIER. C-1006

-737 BK-6R

S-701 SEE

PA6E

1

7. E-11

10

13

Wiring diagram

—

power

distribution

(1978 and

later

—

2 of 2

typical)

15

-13 BL-R

S-707 13 Bl

R

SWITCH

POSTMONS i.

7. 3.

OFF 5. HEAT VENT 6 HEAT -defrost HAI 7. DEFROST

If

13

BL'R

6l-R

:kC-511

c

-

13

w

R

IL

.

X

C-315

c-301

T

nil

13

13

BL-R

Ol -R

C-711

—P53

—

Y-R 348 6R w -

r c-ni4

OR

13 Bl R

C-301

—>>

13 BL

13 Bl -R

R

%

13 BL

C-lllI

w/S/w/waShER CONTROLS INATIONILLUH

A/C

L

Evaporator ThERhOSTAT

UlUHiHAT ION L

c-ni4

AHP

0

(£)

R

f f f f T

LAHP

r %

I

/

neater CONTROLS ILLUHINATION LAHP

|

STEREO tape/ AH/FH/HPl RADIO RECEIVER

13 OL -R

—

I/P

ILLUHINATION LAHP

4 HEATER CONTROLS iLLUHlNAt ION

A/C

AHP

ONLY with A/C

-fi

r

13 Bl

RAOIO RECEIVER

f

TTTT

AH/FH/HPl RADIO RECEIVER

P.C.

OH/FH honauRal RADIO RECEIVER

347 BK

STEREO INDICATOR I

FOR additional RAOIO .'IRCUlTRv SEE RADIO SvSTEH P6. ) . AND AND RADIO SVSTEH. P6. iQ

A/C

A CHAR6E

CLUTCH SOLENOID

^

-S

V

dash panel

4

lights

AHP

RADIO ASSY

PROTECTION protection RIOR

L

4 4

I

RUN. ThROTTlE ACTUATOR. C-737

C

607

12

CONVENIENCE. SEATBELT wARNtN6 SwMCh. C 337 CONVENIENCE. SEATBElT hARn’n6 INDICATOR LAhP.

UhT

IN6

.

S- lOO

15

13

17

—

start.

IN

windshield wiper washer. wInDShIElO wIPER wAShER SwMCh. OR 60vERN0R. WINDSHIELD WIPER WASHER. wINOShIElD wIPER waShER SwMCh. C 607 WINDSHIELD WIPER washer. wINOShIELO wIPER hoTOR. C-603

E 1 TE

Wiring diagram

,

I

(1978 and

later

—

typical)

y

286

V

Wiring diagram

—

charging, starting and ignition systems (1978 and later

—

typical)

1

Wiring diagram

—

charging, starting and ignition systems (1978 and later

—

typical)

3 of 6

of 6

Wiring diagram

Wiring diagram

—

charging, starting and ignition systems (1978 and later

charging. starting and ignition systems (1978 and later

—

typical)

2 of 6

typical)

4

of 6

Wiring diagram

—

charging, starting and ignition systems (1978 and later

Wiring diagram

—

exterior lights

(1978 and

later

—

typical)

1

—

of

typical) 5 of

4

6

.

,

.

289 10

-25 Ik

13

12

II

15

•

11 t It

'16

'640 l-v -532 IL -

I

'25 If

I

—U

•

ItirCCTIIN 4 ClNVf Nif NCI IlfCHII illHTiNl. 4 IlMlB OISTIIIUTIIn HioOiONP SnMCh, C 411 II

6»

6-^&40 640

C-732

I I

c

y

•

640 e

i

C?35

—K

hBBN 4 $B|E0 CBNTBBl U/wBB 4 MAShIB.H/UPB

.

-

-

ANBtinCB. C'1006

SmMCh

BB

6By{BNBB. C-602 22 BL-H 32 Bf y 32 Bf y

—

32 6KY 32 |f-V 32

— 215

ll-V IB

-140 BK

— 285

*1

——32

—

PBBTECTIBN

8B

—

Bt-y-

?I5 IB

—

^

-

—

—140 4

Bf -B

-

-

CBNVllNCI .hIAOLANP bn MABNlNl BU22IB.C*B3l

C-406 ««

>2B5 BB

-285 BB

— -2B2

6B

-283 y-Bi

-

2B5 BB

B .H

B.H. FBBNT PABK * LAMP

,

FBBNT

MAIKFB MAIKCB LANP

Slot MABk(B MABf

LAMP

12 HlNOSHllLO mIP(B/uaSh(B

52 Bf

Wiring diagram

15

12

10

—

exterior lights

(1978 and

later

—

typical)

2 of 4

.

Pump

hihb

Wiring diagram

—

Wiring diagram

exterior lights

—

(1978 and

later

power door locks (1978 and

—

typical)

later

—

3 of 4

typical)

•

291

Wiring diagram

—

exterior lights

(1978 and

—

later

typical)

of

4

U

1«

13

10

4

1 480

V

.

C-315

.

- 1

M/9 %PiiO ctNTeei

-

t

CeNtB0L SPEED SWITCH

$»>C£0 CONlfilL

Lepw

I

4

3

Switch pesnigNS

[Switch

c*i06 H9tN SMitCH

01

i.

9ff

7.

0N SET

3. 4.

H|6N BtlOV

cePST

C-3U

I 151 01 -BR«

r

‘

MH

1 '

It >

'•

•

10

C

A.C. EITEWT10N CeBO

1008 C

1

— 5? 0K -G14 G6 — S7 0K

502

SPEED COWTBii ohPlIEIEB

-

CfUffCSv I