Haynes Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo & Impala Automotive Repair Manual [24048] 1563924188, 9781563924187

Citation preview

Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo & Impala (FWD) 1995 thru 2001

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

Includes essential information for today's more complex vehicles

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY Copley Square Boston, MA 02116

Chevrolet Lumina Monte Carlo & Front-wheel Drive

Impala Automotive Repair Manual by Jeff Kibler, Jay Storer and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo and Front-wheel Drive Impala models 1995 through 2001

ABODE FGHiJ KLMNO PQRST

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides infor¬ mation and procedures for routine mainte¬ nance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arrang¬ ing an appointment to get the vehicle Into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec¬ tions, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Sec¬ tion you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Sec¬ tion. The reference numbers used in illustra¬ tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to

Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s neces¬ sary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or para¬ graphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the pub¬ lisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor¬ mation given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Cau¬ tion is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Acknowledgements Wiring diagranns provided exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Communicatio,

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1998,1999,2000,2001 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical copying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 418 8 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 2001088742 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 98-256

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo and Front-wheel Drive Impala Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Anti-theft audio system Jacking and towing Booster battery Oump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-2 0-4 0-5 0-5 0-6 0-11 0-12 0-12 0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 Part A 3.1 L and 3.4L OHV V6 engines

2A-1

2A

2B-1

2B

2C-1

2C

2D-1

2D

Chapter 2 Part B 3.4L DOHC V6 engine

Chapter 2 Part C 3800 V6 engine

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

3

4-1

4

5-1

5

6-1

6

7-1

7

8-1

8

9-1

9

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

Chapter 8 Driveaxles

Chapter 9 Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

10

11-1

11

12-1

12

Chapter 11 Body

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

1

Wiring diagrams

12-18

Index

IND-1

IND

0-4

Haynes photographer, mechanic and author with 1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

introduction to the Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo and front-wheel drive Impala The models covered by this manual are available in two and four-door sedan body styles. Engines used in these vehicles include the 3.1 and 3.4 liter OHV, 3.4 liter DOHC and a 3.8 liter (3800) V6 engine. All models are equipped with Multi-port fuel injection (MPFI). 1996 and later models are equipped with the On Board Diagnostic Second Generation (OBDII) computerized engine management system that controls virtually every aspect of engine operation. OBDII is designed to keep

the emissions system operating at the feder¬ ally specified level for the life of the vehicle. OBDII monitors emissions system compo¬ nents for signs of degradation and engine operation for any malfunction that could affect emissions, turning on the Service Engine Soon light if any faults are detected. The transversely mounted engine trans¬ mits power to the front wheels through an electronically controlled four-speed auto¬ matic transaxle via independent driveaxles. Suspension is independent in the front,

utilizing coil springs with struts and lower control arms to locate the knuckle assembly at each wheel. The rear suspension features strut/coil spring assemblies, trailing arms and lateral link rods. The rack-and-pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine with powerassist as standard equipment. The brakes are disc at the front and disc or drums at the rear, with power assist stan¬ dard. An Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is standard on most models.

0-5

ViN engine and model year codes Two particularly important pieces of information found in the VIN are the engine code and the model year code. Counting from the left, the engine code letter designa¬ tion is the 8th digit and the model year code letter or number designation is the 10th digit.

X . 1999 Y . 2000 1 . 2001

Vehicie Emissions Control Information label

Engine identification numbers The engine identification number(s) are found on a pad on the left side of engine block by the transmission bellhousing (see illustration).

On the models covered by this manual the engine codes are: M . 3.1LOHVV6 E . 3.4LOHVV6 X . 3.4LDOHCV6 K . 3.8L(3800)V6

Automatic transaxie identification number

On the models covered by the model year codes are: S . T . V . W .

The transaxle ID number on 3T40 mod¬ els is stamped into the top of the casting by the shift lever (see illustration). The transaxle ID number on 4T60-E and 4T65-E models is stamped onto a plate that is riveted to the right rear corner of the transaxle housing.

this manual 1995 1996 1997 1998

Engine ID number

B

VIN number

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is visible through the driver’s side of the windshield

Transaxle identification number locations

V6 engine identification number locations A

This label is found in the engine com¬ partment. See Chapter 6 for more information on this label.

A

VIN number

B

Transaxle ID number

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust sys¬ tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, fil¬ ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department:

This is the best source for parts which

are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

0-6

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Appli¬ cation of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the var¬ ious tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam¬ aged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use tur¬ pentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks oft in an assem¬ bly, it can be drilled and removed with a spe¬ cial tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is impor¬ tant to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be inter¬ changed. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per

inch and is 1 inch long. An Ml 2 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diame¬ ter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan¬ dard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime¬ ters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan¬ dard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the

greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automo¬ biles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the num¬ ber of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo¬ metric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis-

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

3 Dots

Arabic 9

r-\ Hex Nut Property Class 10

Hex Nut Grade 8 6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

Class 10.9 Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Class 9.8

Class 8.8

Metric stud strength markings

f (W-1 HAYNES t

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities tinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

D

Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com¬ ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated)

Metric thread sizes M-6. . M-8. . M-10. . M-12. . M-14. .

Ft-lbs 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes 1/8. . 1/4. . 3/8. . 1/2. .

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes 1/4 - 20. . 5/16 - 18. . 5/16-24. . 3/8-16. . 3/8-24. . 7/16 - 14.. . 7/16-20. . 1/2-13. .

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G L T

Tightening sequences and procedures

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in Inches)

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P L T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter

0-7

fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight¬ ened in sequence to avoid warping the com¬ ponent. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a spe¬ cific pattern is not given, the following proce¬ dures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compo¬ nents before removal. When removing fasteners from a com¬ ponent, keep track of their locations. Some¬ times threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf¬ fin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par¬ ticular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the con¬ tents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily recon¬ nected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used If a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying Is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep In mind that extra clean up will be nec¬ essary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket sur¬ face is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry¬ ing) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely paral¬ lel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may

Dial indicator set leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Sili¬ cone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not dam¬ aged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps when¬ ever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to main¬ tain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial invest¬ ment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is

felt that the expense is justified by the fre¬ quency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be consid¬ ered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of bofh fypes of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2x6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a compre¬ hensive set of sockets which, though expen¬ sive, are invaluable because of their versatil-

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial caliper

Hand-operated vacuum pump

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark piug hoie adapter

Damper/steering wheei puiier

Generai purpose puiier

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/instaiiation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-10

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone ity, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension -10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3x8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman's Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge -12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large)

Brake hold-down spring tool

Tap and die set Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note; Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem¬ porary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. How¬ ever, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just start¬ ing to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If mainte¬ nance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usu¬ ally be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities the tool selection. Building a tool set gradu¬ ally allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pli¬ ers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub¬ sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut

or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because alu¬ minum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam¬ aged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the origi¬ nal size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a vari¬ ety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap It with the special included tap. Install the Hell-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A lit¬ tle impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than

0-11

routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, hovyever, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of com¬ fortable working height is an absolute neces¬ sity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol¬ vents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during nor¬ mal maintenance or repairs, present a dis¬ posal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspa¬ pers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted sur¬ face, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Anti-theft audio system General information 1 Some of these models are equipped with THEFTLOCK audio systems, which include an anti-theft feature that will render the stereo inoperative if stolen. If the power source to the stereo is cut with the anti-theft feature activated, the stereo will be inopera¬ tive. Even if the power source is immediately re-connected, the stereo will not function. 2 If your vehicle is equipped with this anti¬ theft system, do not disconnect the battery, remove the stereo or disconnect related components unless you have either turned off the feature or have the individual ID (code) number for the stereo.

Disabling the anti-theft feature 3

Press the stereo’s 1 and 4 buttons at the

same time for five seconds with the ignition on and the radio power off. The display will show SEC, indicating the unit is in the secure mode (anti-theft feature enabled). 4 Press the MIN button. The display will show “000”. 5 Press the MIN button to make the last two numbers appear. 6 Press HR to display the first one or two numbers of your code. The numbers will be displayed as entered. 7 Press AM/FM. If the display shows you have successfully disabled the anti-theft feature. If SEC is displayed, the code you entered was incorrect and the anti-theft fea¬ ture is still enabled.

Unlocking the stereo after a power loss 8 When power is restored to the stereo, the stereo won’t turn on and LOG will appear on the display. Enter your ID code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between Steps. 9 Turn the ignition switch to ON, but leave the stereo off. 10 Press the MIN button. “000” should dis¬ play. 11 Press the HR button to make the last two numbers appear, then release the button. 12 Press the HR button until the first one or two numbers appear. 13 Press AM/FM. SEC should appear, indi¬ cating the stereo is unlocked. If LOG appears, the numbers you entered were not correct and the stereo is still inoperative.

0-12

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The Jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehi¬ cle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park. Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one is in the vehicle as it’s being raised with the jack.

The head of the jack should fit squarely in the notch on the rocker flange at either the front or rear of the vehicle

Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare'tire from the trunk compartment. To replace the tire, use the tapered end of the lug wrench to pry loose the wheel cover. Note: If the vehicle is equipped with aluminum wheels, it may be necessary to pry out the special lug nut covers. Also, aluminum wheels normally have anti-theft lug nuts (one per wheel) which require using a special “key" between the lug wrench and lug nut. The key is usually in the glove compartment. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is raised off the ground. Position the jack under the side of the vehicle at the indicated jacking points. There’s a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise (the lug wrench also serves as the jack handle) until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off. Clean the mating surfaces of the hub and wheel, then install the spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them com¬ pletely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten the nuts with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque values). If you don’t have access to a torque wrench.

have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Caution: The compact spare included with these vehi¬ cles is intended for temporary use only. Have the tire repaired and reinstall it on the vehicle at the earliest opportunity and don’t exceed 50 mph with the spare tire on the car. Install the wheel cover, then stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

Towing We recommend these vehicles be towed from the front, with the front wheels off the ground. If it’s absolutely necessary, these vehicles can be towed from the rear with the front wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don’t exceed 35 mph and the dis¬ tance is less than 50 miles; the transaxle can be damaged if these mileage/speed limita¬ tions are exceeded. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It must be attached to the main structural members of the vehi¬ cle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used at all times. The parking brake must be released and the transaxie must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes won’t work with the engine off.

Booster battery Gump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUOH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a mainte¬ nance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Note: The vehicles covered in this manual are equipped with a remote positive terminal. This terminal is located in the left (driver’s) side of the engine compartment, covered by a red plastic cap (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the

booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Remote positive

Start the engine using the booster bat¬ tery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection. Make the booster battery

0-13

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning sol¬ vents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and car¬ bon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical compo¬ nents. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami¬ nants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and mois¬ ture from electrical components such as alter¬ nators, voltage regulators, electrical connec¬ tors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depend¬ ing on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination prob¬ lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncon¬ taminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul elec¬ trical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electri¬ cally non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Lubricants

Sealants

Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi¬ viscosity oils are designed to have character¬ istics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differ¬ entials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints.

RTV seaiant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from sili¬ cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplemen¬ tary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfec¬ tions. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the cur¬ ing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, seal¬ ing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Cleaners

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu¬ ally made with copper and graphite lubri¬ cants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength lock¬ ing compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. OH additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several func¬ tions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dis¬ solve gum and varnish that build up on car¬ buretor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the com¬ bustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and pis¬ ton rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid'that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehi¬ cle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxi¬ dized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-14

Conversion factors Length (distance) X X X

0.0394 3.281 0.621

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in ) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (lb)

X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 0.1

X X X

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) = Newtons (N)

inch

X

X

14.223

inch

X

0.070 = Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm“; kg/cm^) 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)

X

14.696

inch,

X

0.069

= Bars

X

14.5

inch

X

6.895

= Kilopascais (kPa)

X

0.145

X

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm^; kg/cm^)

X

98.1

= Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in’*; lb/in“) = (’ounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; Ib/in^) = Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in*; Ib/in^) = Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; lb/in“) = Kilopascais (kPa)

inches

X

1.152

X

0.868

inches

X

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) = Newton metres (Nm)

X

8.85

inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

12

feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

0.138

X

7.233

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Ndwton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

= Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m) = Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

= Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) = Pounds-force

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) = Newton metres (Nm)

X 3.377 X 25.4

= Kilopascais (kPa) = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

X X

0.2961 0.0394

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

X

745.7

= Watts (W)

X

0.0013

= Horsepower (hp)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

X

25.4 = Millimetres (mm) 0.305 = Metres (m) 1.609 = Kilometres (km)

X X X X X X X X

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

X X

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in^) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

= = = = = = = =

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm ) Litres (1) Litres (1) US quarts (US qt) Litres (1) Litres (1) US gallons (US gal) Litres (1)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; Ib/in^) Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; Ib/in^) Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; Ib/in^) Pounds-force per square (psi; Ibf/in^; Ib/in^) Kilopascais (kPa)

inch inch inch inch

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force

inches inches inches feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg) Inches mercury (in. Hg)

Power Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X X

2.825 2.352

Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) = Miles per gallon, US (mpg) =

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

= (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/f is common practice to convert from miies per gaiion (fnpg) to iitres/100 kiiometres (IliOOkm), where mpg (imperiai) x i/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x i/WO km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.66

0-15

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dan¬ gers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fas¬ teners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or ex¬ haust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is poten¬ tially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using

power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehi¬ cle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assem¬ bled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gas¬ kets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do con¬ tain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recom¬ mended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and sol¬ vents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con¬ tain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when clean¬ ing the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particu¬ larly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic igni¬ tion system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

0-16

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Engine and performance Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on. Alternator light stays on. Battery will not hold a charge. Engine backfires. Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off. Engine hard to start when cold. Engine hard to start when hot. Engine lacks power. Engine ‘lopes’ while idling or idles erratically. Engine misses at idle speed. Engine misses throughout driving speed range. Engine rotates but will not start. Engine stalls. Engine starts but stops immediately. Engine surges while holding accelerator steady. Engine will not rotate when attempting to start. Excessive fuel consumption. Excessively high idle speed. Excessive oil consumption. Fuel odor. Hesitation or stumble during acceleration. Low oil pressure. Miscellaneous engine noises. Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine is under load.... Starter motor noisy or engages roughly. Starter motor operates without turning engine.

13 12 11 18 21 4 5 17 8 9 14 2 16 7 19 1 24 10 23 25 15 22 26 20 6 3

Cooling system Coolant loss. External coolant leakage. Internal coolant leakage. Overcooling. Overheating. Poor coolant circulation.

31 29 30 28 27 32

Automatic transaxle Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral. Fluid leakage. General shift mechanism problems. Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell.

37 33 35 34

Symptom

Section

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor.

38 36

Driveaxles Clicking noise in turns. Knock or clunk when accelerating after coasting. Shudder or vibration during acceleration.

39 40 41

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed. Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance. Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates). Dragging brakes. Excessive brake pedal travel. Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle. Grabbing or uneven braking action. Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied).,. Parking brake does not hold. Vehicle pulls to one side during braking.

49 50 44 47 46 45 48 43 51 42

Suspension and steering systems Abnormal or excessive tire wear. Abnormal noise at the front end. Cupped tires. Erratic steering when braking. Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking. Excessive play or looseness in steering system. Excessive tire wear on inside edge. Excessive tire wear on outside edge. Hard steering. Steering wheel does not return to center position correctly. Rattling or clicking noise in rack-and-pinion. Shimmy, shake or vibration. Suspension bottoms. Tire tread worn in one place. Vehicle pulls to one side. Wander or poor steering stability. Wheel makes a “thumping” noise.

53 58 63 60 61 67 65 64 56 57 68 55 62 66 52 59 54

Troubleshooting Engine and performance 1 Engine will not rotate when attempting to start 1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery; tighten cable clamp and/or clean off corrosion as necessary (see Chap¬ ter 1). 2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable ends are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights or windshield wipers. If they won’t run, the battery Is dis¬ charged. 3 Automatic transaxle not engaged in park (P) or Neutral (N). 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and con¬ nectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch (on steering column). 5 Starter motor pinion jammed in driveplate ring gear. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect pinion and driveplate (Chapter 2) at earliest convenience. 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12). 9 Engine seized. Try to turn the crankshaft with a large socket and breaker bar on the pulley bolt.

2 Engine rotates but will not start 1 Fuel tank empty. 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Sec¬ tion. 3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous Section. 4 Fuel not reaching fuel injectors. Check for clogged fuel filter or lines and defective fuel pump. Also make sure the tank vent lines aren’t clogged (Chapter 4). 5 Faulty ignition module. (Chapter 5). 6 Low cylinder compression. Check as described in Chapter 2. 7 Water in fuel. Drain tank and fill with new fuel. 8 Dirty or clogged fuel injectors. 9 Faulty idle oontrol system (Chapter 4). 10 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6). 11 Wet or damaged ignition components (Chapters 1 and 5). 12 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 13 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the ignition circuit. 14 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil(s) or faulty coil(s) (Chap¬ ter 5). 15 Timing chain or belt failure or wear affecting valve timing (Chapter 2).

0-17

3 Starter motor operates without turning engine

8 Engine ‘lopes’ while idling or idles erratically

1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. 2 Starter pinion or driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and inspect.

1 Vacuum leaks. Check mounting bolts at the intake manifold or plenum for tightness. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are con¬ nected and in good condition. Use a stetho¬ scope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks. Check the intake manifold or plenum gasket surfaces. 2 Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (Chapter 6). 3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Leaking head gasket. Perform a cylinder compression check (Chapter 2). 5 Worn timing chain or belt (Chapter 2). 6 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). 7 Valves burned or otherwise leaking (Chapter 2). 8 Ignition system not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 5). 9 Dirty or clogged injectors (Chapter 4). 10 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 11 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

4 Engine hard to start when cold 1 Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Chapter 1. 2 Fuel not reaching the fuel injectors. Check the fuel filter and lines (Chapters 1 and 4). 3 Defective spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold are attached properly and in good condition. 5 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 4 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

5 Engine hard to start when hot 1 Air filter dirty (Chapter 1). 2 Bad engine ground connection. 3 Fuel not reaching the injectors (Chap¬ ter 4). 4 Loose connection in the ignition system (Chapter 5). 5 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 6 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

6 Starter motor noisy or engages roughly 1 Pinion or flywheel/driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover and inspect. 2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

9 Engine misses at idle speed 1 Spark plugs faulty or not gapped prop¬ erly (Chapter 1). 2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 3 Wet or damaged ignition components (Chapter 1). 4 Short circuits in ignition, coil(s) or spark plug wires. 5 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6). 6 Clogged fuel filter and/or foreign matter in fuel. Replace the fuel filter (Chapter 1). 7 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or plenum or hose connections. Check as described in Section 8. 8 Low or uneven cylinder compression. Check as described in Chapter 2. 9 Clogged or dirty fuel injectors (Chapter 4). 10 Leaky EGR valve (Chapter 6). 11 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

10 Excessively high idle speed 7 Engine starts but stops immediately 1 Loose or damaged wiring in the ignition system. 2 Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold are attached properly and in good condition. 5 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 4 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

1 Sticking throttle linkage (Chapter 4). 2 Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 4). 3 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 4 Faulty emissions or engine control sys¬ tems (Chapter 6).

11 Battery will not hold a charge 1 Drivebelt defective or not adjusted prop¬ erly (Chapter 1).

0-18 2 Battery cables loose or corroded (Chap¬ ter 1). 3 Alternator not charging properly (Chap¬ ter 5). 4 Loose, broken or faulty wires in the charging circuit (Chapter, 5). 5 Short circuit causing a continuous drain on the battery (Chapter 12). 6 Battery defective internally. 7 Faulty regulator (Chapter 5).

12 Alternator light stays on 1 Fault in alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5). 2 Drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter 1).

Troubleshooting 16 Engine stalls 1 Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 4). 2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1). 3 Damaged or wet ignition system wires or components. 4 Faulty idle control system (Chapter 4). 5 Emissions or engine control system components faulty (Chapter 6). 6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Also check the spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 7 Vacuum leak at the intake manifold or plenum or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8.

17 Engine lacks power 13 Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on 1 Faulty bulb (Chapter 12). 2 Defective alternator (Chapter 5). 3 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

14 Engine misses throughout driving speed range 1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system. Check fuel filter (Chapter 1) or clean system (Chapter 4). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 3 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 4 Disconnected ignition system wires or damaged ignition system components (Chapter 1). 5 Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 Emissions or engine control system com¬ ponents faulty (Chapter 6). 7 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Check as described in Chapter 2. 8 Weak or faulty ignition coil(s) (Chap¬ ter 5). 9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chap¬ ter 5). 10 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or plenum or vacuum hoses (see Section 8). 11 Dirty or clogged fuel injector (Chapter 4).

15 Hesitation or stumble during acceleration 1 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). 2 Ignition system not operating properly (Chapter 5). 3 Dirty or clogged fuel injectors (Chap¬ ter 4). 4 Low fuel pressure. Check for proper operation of the fuel pump and for restric¬ tions in the fuel filter and lines (Chapter 4). 5 Emissions or engine control system com¬ ponents faulty (Chapter 6).

1 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 2 Check for fauity ignition wires, etc. (Chapter 1). 3 Fauity or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Air fiiter dirty (Chapter 1). 5 Spark timing control system not operat¬ ing properly (Chapter 5). 6 Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5). 7 Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9). 8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect, causing slippage (Chapter 1). 9 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). 10 EGR system not functioning properiy (Chapter 6). 11 Use of sub-standard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel. 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Check as described in Chap¬ ter 2. 13 Air (vacuum) leak at intake manifold or plenum (check as described in Sec¬ tion 8).

18 Engine backfires 1 EGR system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). 3 Vacuum ieak (refer to Section 8). 4 Damaged valve springs or sticking vaives (Chapter 2). 5 intake air (vacuum) leak (see Section 8).

19 Engine surges while holding accelerator steady 1 Intake air (vacuum) leak (see Section 8). 2 Fuel pump not working properiy. 3 Fauity idle air control system (Chap¬ ter 4). 4 Emissions or engine controi system components faulty (Chapter 6).

20 Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine is under load 1 Incorrect grade of fuel. Fill tank with fuel of the proper octane rating. 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5) or problem in the ignition system (Chapter 5). 3 Carbon-build-up in combustion cham¬ bers. Remove cylinder head(s) and clean combustion chambers (Chapter 2). 4 Incorrect spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5 Knock sensor system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).

21 Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off 1 Idle speed too high (Chapter 4). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). 3 Incorrect spark plug heat range (Chapter 1). 4 Intake air (vacuum) leak (see Section 8). 5 Carbon build-up in combustion cham¬ bers. Remove the cylinder head and clean the combustion chambers (Chapter 2). 6 Valves sticking (Chapter 2). 7 Valve clearance incorrect (Chapter 1). 8 EGR system not operating properly (Chapter 6). 9 Leaking fuel injector(s) (Chapter 4). 10 Check for causes of overheating (Sec¬ tion 27).

22 Low oil pressure 1 Improper grade of oil. 2 Oil pump regulator valve not operating properly (Chapter 2). 3 Oil pump worn or damaged (Chapter 2). 4 Engine overheating (refer to Section 27). 5 Clogged oil filter (Chapter 1). 6 Clogged oil strainer (Chapter 2). 7 Oil pressure gauge not working properly (Chapter 2).

23 Excessive oil consumption 1 Loose oil drain plug. 2 Loose bolts or damaged oil pan gasket (Chapter 2). 3 Loose bolts or damaged front cover gasket (Chapter 2). 4 Front or rear crankshaft oil seal leaking (Chapter 2). 5 Loose bolts or damaged valve cover gasket (Chapter 2). 6 Loose oil filter (Chapter 1). 7 Loose or damaged oil pressure switch (Chapter 2). 8 Pistons and cylinders excessively worn (Chapter 2). 9 Piston rings not installed correctly on pistons (Chapter 2).

Troubleshooting 10 Worn or damaged piston rings (Chap¬ ter 2). 11 Intake and/or exhaust valve oil seals worn or damaged (Chapter 2). 12 Worn valve stems. 13 Worn or damaged valves/guides (Chap¬ ter 2).

24 Excessive fuel consumption 1 Dirty or clogged air filter element (Chap¬ ter 1). 2 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 3 Incorrect idle speed (Chapter 4). 4 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 10). 5 Fuel leakage. Check all connections, lines and components in the fuel system (Chapter 4). 6 Dirty or clogged fuel injectors (Chap¬ ter 4). 7 Problem in the fuel injection system (Chapter 4).

25 Fuel odor 1 Fuel leakage. Check all connections, lines and components in the fuel system (Chapter 4). 2 Fuel tank overfilled. Fill only to auto¬ matic shut-off. 3 Charcoal canister filter in Evaporative Emissions Control system clogged (Chap¬ ter 6). 4 Vapor leaks from Evaporative Emissions Control system lines (Chapter 6).

26 Miscellaneous engine noises 1 A strong dull noise that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates indicates worn or damaged crankshaft bearings or an unevenly worn crankshaft. To pinpoint the trouble spot, remove the spark plug wire from one plug at a time and crank the engine over. If the noise stops, the cylinder with the removed plug wire indicates the problem area. Replace the bearing and/or service or replace the crankshaft (Chapter 2). 2 A similar (yet slightly higher pitched) noise to the crankshaft knocking described in the previous paragraph, that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates, indicates worn or damaged connecting rod bearings (Chapter 2). The procedure for locating the problem cylinder is the same as described in Paragraph 1. 3 An overlapping metallic noise that increases in intensity as the engine speed increases, yet diminishes as the engine warms up indicates abnormal piston and cylinder wear (Chapter 2).To locate the prob¬ lem cylinder, use the procedure described in Paragraph 1. 4 A rapid clicking noise that becomes

faster as the engine accelerates indicates a worn piston pin or piston pin hole. This sound will happen each time the piston hits the highest and lowest points in the stroke (Chapter 2). The procedure for locating the problem piston is described in Para¬ graph 1. 5 A metallic clicking noise coming from the water pump indicates worn or damaged water pump bearings or pump. Replace the water pump with a new one (Chapter 3). 6 A rapid tapping sound or clicking sound that becomes faster as the engine speed increases indicates “valve tapping” or stuck valve lifters. This can be identified by holding one end of a section of hose to your ear and placing the other end at different spots along the rocker arm cover. The point where the sound is loudest indicates the problem valve. Adjust the valve clearance (Chapter 1). 7 A steady metallic rattling or rapping sound coming from the area of the timing chain cover indicates a worn, damaged or out-of-adjustment timing chain. Service or replace the chain and related components (Chapter 2).

27 Overheating 1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chap¬ ter 1). 2 Water pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 3 Radiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3). 4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). 5 Electric cooling fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).

28 Overcooling

0-19 31 Coolant loss 1 Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). 2 Coolant boiling away because of over¬ heating (Chapter 3). 3 Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). 4 Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).

32 Poor coolant circulation 1 Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). 2 Restriction in cooling system (Chap¬ ters 1 and 3). 3 Water pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Automatic transaxle Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle, it’s difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this compo¬ nent. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer ser¬ vice department or a transmission shop.

33 Fluid leakage 1 Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown by air flow to the transaxle. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from the transaxle housing with degreasing agents and/or steam clean¬ ing. Drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are: a) Pan (Chapters 1 and 7) b) Fiiler pipe (Chapter 7) c) Transaxle oil lines (Chapter 7) d) Speedometer gear or sensor (Chapter 7) e) Vacuum modulator (Chapter 7)

Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3).

29 External coolant leakage 1 Deteriorated/damaged hoses or loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). 2 Water pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank (Chapter 3). 4 Engine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2). 5 Leak at engine oil cooler (Chapter 3).

30 Internal coolant leakage 1 Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chap¬ ter 2). 2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).

34 Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell Transaxle overheated. Change the fluid (Chapter 1).

35 General shift mechanism problems 1 Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. b) Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used. c) Vehicle moves when in Park. 2 Refer to Chapter 7 for the shift linkage adjustment procedure.

Troubleshooting

0-20 36 Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor Throttle Valve (TV) cable out of adjust¬ ment (Chapter 7).

b) The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10). c) The vehicle isn’t loaded with weight in an unequal manner.

2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder (Chapters 1 and 9). 3 Air trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9). 4 Excessively worn rear shoes (Chap¬ ter 9).

42 Vehicle pulls to one side during braking 47 Dragging brakes

37 Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral Park/Neutral (Chapter 7).

switch

malfunctioning

38 Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diag¬ nose the probable cause.

Driveaxles 39 Clicking noise in turns Worn or damaged outer CV joint. Check for cut or damaged boots (Chapter 1). Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).

40 Knock or clunk when accelerating after coasting Worn or damaged CV joint. Check for cut or damaged boots (Chapter 1). Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).

41 Shudder or vibration during acceleration 1 Excessive inner CV joint angle. Check and correct as necessary (Chapter 8). 2 Worn or damaged CV joints. Repair or replace as necessary (Chapter 8). 3 Sticking inboard joint assembly. Correct or replace as necessary (Chapter 8).

1 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). 2 Front end out of line (have the front end aligned). 3 Unmatched tires on same axle. 4 Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap¬ ter 9). 5 Malfunctioning brake assembly (Chap¬ ter 9). 6 Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). 7 Loose brake calipers (Chapter 9). 8 Contaminated brake linings (Chapters 1 and 9).

43 Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Front disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9).

44 Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) Note: Brake pedal pulsation during operation of the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) is normal. 1 Excessive front brake disc lateral runout (Chapter 9). 2 Parallelism not within specifications (Chapter 9). 3 Uneven pad wear caused by caliper not sliding due to improper clearance or dirt (Chapter 9). 4 Defective brake disc (Chapter 9).

45 Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle 1 Malfunctioning power brake booster (Chapter 9). 2 Partial system failure (Chapter 9). 3 Excessively worn pads (Chapter 9). 4 One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders seized or sticking (Chapter 9). 5 Brake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9). 6 New pads installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to seat.

Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure ... a) The tires are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1).

46 Excessive brake pedal travel 1 Partial brake system failure (Chap¬ ter 9).

1 Master cylinder pistons not returning correctly (Chapter 9). 2 Restricted brakes lines or hoses (Chap¬ ters 1 and 9). 3 Incorrect parking brake adjustment (Chapter 9). 4 Sticking pistons in calipers (Chap¬ ter 9).

48 Grabbing or uneven braking action 1 Malfunction of proportioner valves (Chapter 9). 2 Malfunction of power brake booster unit (Chapter 9). 3 Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chap¬ ter 9). 4 Sticking pistons in calipers (Chap¬ ter 9).

49 Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed 1 Air in hydraulic lines (Chapter 9). 2 Master cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). 3 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

50 Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Little or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking caliper or wheel cylinder pistons, loose, damaged or discon¬ nected brake lines (Chapter 9).

51 Parking brake does not hold Check the parking brake (Chapter 9).

Suspension and steering systems Note: Before attempting to diagnose the sus¬ pension and steering systems, perform the following preliminary checks: a) Check the tire pressures and look for uneven wear. b) Check the steering universal joints or coupling from the column to the steering gear for loose fasteners and wear. c) Check the front and rear suspension and the steering gear assembly for loose and damaged parts.

0-21

Troubleshooting d) Look for out-of-round or out-of-balance tires, bent rims and loose and/or rough wheel bearings.

52 Vehicle pulls to one side 1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chap¬ ter 10). 2 Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). 3 Front w/heei aiignment incorrect (Chap¬ ter 10). 4 Front brakes dragging (Chapter 9).

53 Abnormal or excessive tire wear 1 Front wheei alignment incorrect (Chap¬ ter 10). 2 Sagging or broken springs (Chapter 10). 3 Tire out-of-balance (Chapter 10). 4 Worn shock absorber (Chapter 10). 5 Overloaded vehicle. 6 Tires not rotated regularly.

54 Wheel makes a “thumping” noise 1 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 1). 2 Improper shock absorber action (Chap¬ ter 10).

4 Front wheel alignment problem (Chap¬ ter 10).

58 Abnormal noise at the front end 1 rod 2 3 4 5 6

Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tieends (Chapter 1). Loose upper strut mount (Chapter 10). Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). Loose wheel lug nuts (Chapter 1). Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10).

1 Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of¬ round (Chapter 10). 2 Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chap¬ ter 10). 3 Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). 4 Worn balljoints (Chapter 10). 5 Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). 6 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 1).

56 Hard steering 1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and steering gear assembly (Chap¬ ter 10). 2 Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap¬ ter 10). 3 Low tire pressure (Chapter 1).

57 Steering wheel does not return to center position correctly 1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapter 10). 2 Binding in steering column (Chapter 10). 3 Defective rack-and-pinion assembly (Chapter 10).

1 Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap¬ ter 10). 2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10). 3 Wheel bearings worn (Chapters 8 and 10). 4 Excessive tire or wheel runout (Chap¬ ter 10). 5 Worn balljoints (Chapter 10).

64 Excessive tire wear on outside edge 59 Wander or poor steering stability 1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chap¬ ter 10). 2 Lack of lubrication at balljoints or tie-rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). 3 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 5 Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). 6 Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap¬ ter 10). 7 Worn steering gear clamp bushings (Chapter 10).

60 Erratic steering when braking 55 Shimmy, shake or vibration

63 Cupped tires

1 Wheel bearings worn (Chapters 8 and 10). 2 Broken or sagging springs (Chap¬ ter 10). 3 Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chap¬ ter 9). 4 Warped brake discs (Chapter 9). 5 Worn steering gear clamp bushings (Chapter 10).

61 Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking 1 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 2 Worn shock absorbers or mounts (Chapter 10). 3 Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). 4 Overloaded vehicle.

1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 Excessive speed in turns. 3 Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in or positive camber). Have profession¬ ally aligned. 4 Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap¬ ter 10).

65 Excessive tire wear on inside edge 1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out or excessive negative camber). Have profes¬ sionally aligned. 3 Loose or damaged steering compo¬ nents (Chapter 10).

66 Tire tread worn in one place 1 Tires out-of-balance. 2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary. 3 Defective tire (Chapter 1).

67 Excessive play or looseness in steering system 1 2 3

Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). Tie-rod end loose or worn (Chapter 10). Steering gear loose (Chapter 10).

62 Suspension bottoms 1 Overloaded vehicle. 2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10). 3 Incorrect, broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).

68 Rattling or clicking noise in rack and pinion Steering gear clamps loose (Chapter 10).

1-1

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents Section

Section Air filter replacement. Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change. Automatic transaxle fluid level check. Battery check, maintenance and charging. Brake check. Chassis lubrication. Cooling system check. Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling). Drivebelt and tensioner check and replacement. Engine oil and filter change. Exhaust system check. Fluid level checks. Fuel filter replacement. Fuel system check. Introduction.

21 28 7 10 15 9 11 27 13 8 17 4 25 26 2

Maintenance schedule. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement. Power steering fluid level check. Seat belt check. SERVICE ENGINE SOON light See Ohapter 6 Spark plug check and replacement. Spark plug wire check and replacement. Steering, suspension and driveaxle boot check... Throttle linkage check. Tire and tire pressure checks. Tire rotation. Tune-up general information. Underhood hose check and replacement. Wiper blade inspection and replacement.

1

....

22 6 20

.... .... ....

24 23 14

....

Specifications

Recommended lubricants and fluids Note: Listed here are manufacturer recommendations at the time this manuai was written. Manufacturers occasionaily upgrade their fiuid and iubricant specifications, so check with your iocai auto parts store for current recommendations. Engine oil Type . API grade SG, SG/CC or SG/CD multigrade and fuel-efficient oil Viscosity... See accompanying chart Automatic transmission fluid. Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Engine coolant. 50/50 mixture of water and the specified ethylene glycol-based (green color) antifreeze or “DEX-COOL”, sjlicate-free (orange-color) coolant - DO NOT mix the two types (refer to Sections 4, 11 and 27) Brake fluid. DOT 3 brake fluid Power steering fluid. GM power steering fluid or equivalent Chassis grease. SAE NLGI no. 2 chassis grease

HOT WEATHER

Engine oil viscosity chart - For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade for the expected temperature range

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

WEATHER

1-a3 HAYNES

16 3 12 19

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-2

ooo @ ® @ @

FRONT OF VEHICLE

(g) (S) g) (D

FRONT OF VEHICLE

FRONT OF VEHICLE

12404e-1-iB HAYNESi

Cylinder location and coil terminal identification diagram - 3.1 L engine

Cylinder location and coil terminal identification diagram - 3.4L engine

Cylinder location and coil terminal identification diagram - 3.8L engine

Capacities* Engine oil (with filter change) 3.1Land3.4LOHV. 3.4LDOHC... 3.8L . Fuel tank All (except 3.1 L). 3.1 L . Cooling system 1995 through 1996 3.1 L (with 3T40 transmission). 3.1 L (with 4T60-E transmission). 3.4L DOHC (with 4T60-E transmission). 1997 on 3.1Land3.4LOHV. 3.4LDOHC. 3.8L. Automatic transmission (fluid and filter replacement).. *A// capacities approximate. Add as necessary to bring to appropriate ievel.

4.5 to 5.0 qts 5.5 to 6.0 qts 4.5 to 5.0 qts 17.1 gallons 16.1 gallons

12.7 qts 12.5 qts 12.7 qts 11.6 qts 12.3 qts 11.6 qts 7 qts

Ignition system Spark plug type and gap 1995 3.1 L. 3.4L. 1996 through 1997 3.1 L. 3.4L. 1998 and later 3.1 L and 3.4L OHV. 3.8L. Firing order 3.1Land3.4LOHV. 3.4LDOFIC. 3.8L .

AC type R44LTSM or equivalent @ 0.060 inch AC type R42LTSM or equivalent @ 0.045 inch AC type 41 -940 or equivalent @ 0.060 inch AC type 41 -919 or equivalent @ 0.045 inch AC type 41 -940 or equivalent @ 0.060 inch AC type 41 -921 or equivalent @ 0.060 inch 1-2-3-4-5-6 1-2-3-4-5-6 1-6-5-4-3-2

General Radiator cap pressure rating. Brake pad lining wear limit. Brake shoe lining wear limit..

15 psi 1/8 inch 3/32 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Automatic transmission pan bolts Engine oil drain plug. Spark plugs 3.1 Land 3.4LOHV. 3.4L DOHC. 3.8L . Wheel lug nuts.

90 to 100 in-lbs 15 to 20 132 in-lbs 132 in-lbs 15 to 20 100

Chapter 1 Typical engine compartment components - 3.1 L engine 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Ignition coil pack and spark plug wires Automatic transmission fluid dipstick Brake master cylinder reservoir Engine compartment fuse block No. 2 Battery (not visible) Windshield washer fluid reservoir Upper radiator hose Air filter housing PCV valve Engine oil dipstick Engine oil filler cap Spark plugs (front side) Lower radiator hose Radiator cap Engine compartment fuse block No. 1 Power steering fluid reservoir Engine coolant reservoir Drive belt

Typical engine compartment components - 3800 engine 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Automatic transmission fluid dipstick Brake master cylinder reservoir Engine compartment fuse block No. 2 Battery (not visible) Windshield washer fluid reservoir Air filter housing Upper radiator hose Spark plugs (front side) Engine oil filler cap Engine oil dipstick Lower radiator hose Radiator cap Engine compartment fuse block No. 1 Ignition coil pack and spark plug wires PCV valve Engine coolant reservoir Drivebelt Power steering fluid reservoir (not visible in photo; below alternator)

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-3

1-4

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance Typical front underside components 1 2 3 4 5

'X’i

fu, ■•

' r-iV '« 'f .•.l•'■'1^'

I ' ■' .;V

>t';,“ «.

.

'V i

•

'

'

'

' '•'• {

S

' '''Ll' f
■ ’/l'

•V

•s • •.; ,
■

■ ■»' ’

}H

1.1a Front suspension components (Lumina and 1999 and earlier (Monte Carlo) 1 2

Strut/knuckle assembly Ball joint

3 4

Control arm Subframe bolts

5 6

Control arm pivot bolt Tie-rod end

10-3

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 1

General information

Refer to illustrations 1.1a, 1.1b and 1.2 Warning: Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones of the same part number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension or steering components. Instead, replace any bent or damaged part with a new one. The front suspension on Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models is a strut design that is made up of a strut weided to a knuckie and supported by a coii spring. The strut/knuckle bearing is located under the lower spring seat, with the upper spring seat attaching to the chassis. Because of the iocation of the bearing on the Lumina and 1999 and eariier Monte Carlo models, the strut cartridge can be removed from the engine compartment without disassembiing the spring and strut/knuckle. On 2000 and iater modei Monte Cario and Impaia models, strut replacement requires disassembiy of the spring and strut/knuckie assembiy. The strut/ knuckie assembiies are connected by balijoints to the iower controi arms, which are mounted to the frame. The control arms are connected by a stabilizer bar, which reduces body lean during cornering (see illustrations). The rear suspension is independent, with a coii spring/strut assembiy on each side bolted to knuckle assemblies that are located by trailing arms, paraiiei iateral iinks, and a stabilizer bar (see illustration). The rack-and-pinion steering gear is located behind the engine/transaxie assembiy on the subframe and actuates the steering arms that connect to the steering knuckles. All vehicles are equipped with power steering. The steering column is connected to the steering gear through an insuiated coupier. The steering coiumn is designed to coiiapse in the event of an accident. Note: On models equipped with the Theftiock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure, which requires disconnecting the battery.

2

1.1b Front suspension components (2000 and later Impaia and Monte Carlo) 1 2 3 4

Strut/knuckie assembly Balljoint Control arm Subframe bolts

5 6 7

Control arm front pivot bolt Control arm rear pivot bolt Tie-rod end

Stabilizer bar and bushings (front) - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 2.3 and 2.4

Removal 1 Loosen the iug nuts on both front wheels, raise the vehicle and support it secureiy on jackstands. Remove the front wheeis. 2 Remove the steering shaft pinch boit (see Section 17). Warning: The wheels should be straight ahead and the steering column locked. On airbag-equipped models.

1.2 Rear suspension components 1 2 3

Lateral link rods Strut Trailing arm

4 5 6

Coil spring Knuckle Stabilizer bar

10-4

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

2.3 Remove the stabilizer bar bolts (arrows) on the control arm don’t allow the steering wheel to turn after the steering shaft Is disconnected from the steering gear. Pass the seat belt through the steering wheel and clip it into place. 3 Remove the stabilizer bar-to-control arm nuts/bolts (see illustration). 4 Remove the stabilizer bar bracket-toframe nuts/bolts (see illustration). 5 Place a jack under the rear of the subframe crossmember, then loosen the two front subframe-to-body bolts four turns. Remove the two rear subframe-to-body bolts (see illustration 1.1). Slowly lower the jack and allow the rear of the subframe to drop down. 6 Pull the stabilizer bar to the rear, swing it down then remove it through the left side wheel well. Warning: Do not place any part of your body under the subframe assembly when it is lowered from the vehicle, even though a jack supports it. 7 Inspect the bushings for wear and damage and replace them if necessary. To remove them, pry the bushing clamp off with a screwdriver and pull the bushings off the bar. To ease installation, spray the inside and outside of the bushings with a silicone-based lubricant. Do not use petroleum-based lubri¬ cants on any rubber suspension part!

Installation 8 Assemble the shaft bushings and clamps on the bar, guide the bar through the wheel well, over the frame and into position. 9 Install the clamps loosely to the frame and control arm and install all of the bolts before tightening any of them. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 10 Raise the subframe into place while guiding the steering shaft into position in the steering gear and install the rear bolts. Tighten the subframe bolts to the torque figures listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 11 Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

2.4 Remove the stabilizer bar bracket-toframe bolts (arrows)

3

3.3a Check for movement between the balljoint and steering knuckle when prying up

Balljoint - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 3.3a and 3.3b

Check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. 2 Inspect the rubber seal visually for damage, deterioration and leaking grease. If any of these conditions are noticed, the balljoint should be replaced. 3 Place a large prybar under the balljoint and attempt to push the balljoint up. Next, position the prybar between the steering knuckle and control arm and pry down (see illustrations). If any movement is seen or felt during either of these checks, a worn out balljoint is indicated. 4 Have an assistant grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of the tire in-and-out. If you see any play in the balljoint, replace it. 5 Separate the control arm from the steering knuckle (see Section 4). Using your fingers (don’t use pliers), try to twist the stud in the socket. If the stud turns, replace the balljoint.

Replacement 6 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 7 Separate the control arm from the steering knuckle (see Section 4). 8 Using a 1/8-inch drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the center of each balljoint-to-steering knuckle rivet (see illustrations 4.3a and 4.3b). Be careful not to damage the CV joint boot in the process. 9 Using a 1/2-inch drill bit, drill the head off each rivet. Work slowly and carefully to

3.3b With the prybar positioned between the steering knuckle boss and balljoint, pry down and check for play in the balljoint - if there is any play, replace the balljoint

avoid deforming the holes in the steering knuckle. 10 Loosen (but don’t remove) the stabilizer bar-to-control arm bolts. Pull the control arm down and remove the balljoint from between the control arm and steering knuckle. Note: You may have to chisel between the steering knuckle and the balljoint to shear off the remains of the rivets. 11 Position the new balljoint on the steering knuckle and Install the bolts (supplied in the balljoint kit). Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the new balljoint instruction sheet. 12 Insert the balljoint into the control arm, install the castellated nut, tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and install a new cotter pin. It may be necessary to tighten the nut some to align the cotter pin hole with an opening in the nut, which is acceptable. Never loosen the castel¬ lated nut to allow cotter pin insertion. 13 Tighten the stabilizer bar-to-control arm bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

4.3a Balljoint components (Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo)

4.3b Balljoint components (Impala and 2000 and later Monte Carlo models)

A

A B

B C

Balljoint heat shield bolts (some models) Balljoint rivets Castellated balljoint nut and cotter pin

14 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. It’s a good idea to take the vehicle to a dealer service department or alignment shop to have the front wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

4

Control arm - removal, and installation

Refer to illustrations 4.3a, 4.3b, 4.4, 4.5a and 4.5b

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel.

Castellated balljoint nut and cotter pin Balljoint rivets

10-5

4.4 Use a two-jaw puller clamped over the control arm with the center bolt of the puller pushing on the balljoint nut

Installation 2 If only one control arm is being removed, disconnect only that end of the stabilizer bar. If both control arms are being removed, disconnect both ends (see Section 2 if necessary). 3 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the balljoint stud-to-control arm castellated nut (see illustrations). Note: On some early models, it will be necessary to remove the two bolts and the balljoint heat shield. 4 Separate the balljoint from the knuckle with a two-jaw puller, with the center bolt on the nut and stud (see illustration). Remove the nut once the stud is free and pry the control arm down. 5 Remove the two control arm pivot bolts and detach the control arm (see illustration). 6 The control arm bushings are replaceable, but special tools and expertise are necessary to do the job, Carefully inspect the bushings for hardening, excessive wear and cracks. If they appear to be worn or deteriorated, take the control arm to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

I Position the control arm in the subframe brackets and install the pivot bolts/nuts. Don’t tighten the bolts completely yet. 8 Insert the balljoint stud into the control arm boss, install the castellated nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more (but not more than one flat of the nut) if the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up with an opening on the nut. Install a new cotter pin. 9 Place a floor jack under the balljoint and raise the suspension to simulate normal ride height. Tighten the control arm pivot bolts/nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 10 Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm clamp over the end bushing and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see Section 2). II Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 12 Drive the vehicle to a dealer service department or an alignment shop to have the front wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

4.5a Remove the two control-arm-tosubframe bolts/nuts (arrows) (Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo)

10

4.5b Remove the front (1) and rear (2) control-arm-to-subframe bolts/nuts (2000 and later Impala and Monte Carlo)

10-6

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

5.2 Mark the position of the strut mount cover (arrow) before loosening the three nuts

5

Strut and spring assembly (front) - removal and installation

Lamina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models Note: On these models the strut cartridge can be replaced with the strut and spring assembly installed in the vehicle (see Sec¬ tion 7). Because it isn’t necessary to remove and disassemble the strut and spring assembly for strut cartridge replacement, removal of the assembly should only be required to repair damage to the spring, seats and strut/knuckle components.

Removal Refer to illustration 5.2 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Mark the position of the strut mount cover to the strut tower (see illustration). 3 Separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle as described in Section 15. 4 Refer to Chapter 9 and remove the brake caliper, mounting bracket and disc. Hang the caliper out of the way. On models so equipped, remove the bolt and secure the ABS sensor out of the way. 5 Remove the hub and wheel bearing bolts (see Section 8). 6 Remove the driveaxle (see Chapter 8). 7 Separate the balljoint from the lower control arm (see Section 4). 8 Support the strut and spring assembly with one hand and remove the three strut mount tower nuts (see illustration 5.2). Lower the assembly and remove it from the vehicle.

Inspection 9 Check the strut body for leaking fluid, dents, cracks and other obvious damage, which would warrant repair or replacement. 10 Check the coil spring for chips and

6.2 Install the spring compressor and alternately tighten each clamp to evenly compress the spring cracks in the spring coating (this will cause premature spring failure due to corrosion). Inspect the spring seats for hardening, cracks and general deterioration. 11 Inspect the knuckle/strut for corrosion, bending or twisting.

Installation 12 Slide the strut assembly up into the fenderwell and insert the three upper mounting studs through the holes in the shock tower. Once the three studs protrude from the shock tower, install the strut cover to the marked position, then the nuts so the strut won’t fall back through. This may require an assistant, since the strut is quite heavy and awkward. 13 Connect the lower balljoint to the control arm and install the nut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin won’t pass through, tighten the nut a little more, but just enough to align the hole in the stud with a castellation on the nut (don’t loosen the nut). 14 Install the driveaxle and hub/wheel bearing assembly (see Chapter 8). 15 Install the brake components (see Chapter 9). 16 Install the tie-rod end in the steering arm and tighten the castellated nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin won’t pass through, tighten the nut a little more, but just enough to align the hole in the stud with a castellation on the nut (don’t loosen the nut). 17 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 18 Tighten the three upper mounting nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specification.

2000 and later Monte Carlo and Impala models Removal 19 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block

6.4 Remove the cartridge retaining nut (arrow) with a two-pin spanner the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 20 Mark the strut-to-steering knuckle relationship by making a line around the strut-to-steering knuckle bolt heads. 21 Remove the nuts from the strut-toknuckle bolts and knock the bolts out with a brass punch and a hammer. 22 Separate the strut from the steering knuckle. Be careful not to overextend the inner CV joint or stretch the brake hose. If necessary, support the control arm with a jack. 5 Support the strut and spring assembly with one hand and remove the upper strut mounting nuts and bolt. Remove the strut and spring assembly.

Inspection 23 Check the strut body for leaking fluid, dents, cracks and other obvious damage, which would warrant repair or replacement. 24 Check the coil spring for chips and cracks in the spring coating (this will cause premature spring failure due to corrosion). Inspect the spring seat for hardening, cracks and general deterioration. 25 If wear or damage is evident, replace the strut and/or coil spring as necessary (see Section 6).

Installation 26 Guide the strut assembly up into the fenderwell and insert the upper mounting studs through the holes in the shock tower. Once the studs protrude from the shock tower, install the nuts so the strut won’t fall back through. This may require an assistant, since the strut is quite heavy and awkward. 27 Slide the steering knuckle into the strut flange and insert the two bolts. Install the nuts, align the marks you made prior to disassembly and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 28 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 29 Tighten the upper mounting nuts and bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 30 Drive the vehicle to a dealer service

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

6.5 Slide the strut cartridge out of the strut body department or an alignment shop to have the front wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted (this is only necessary if the strut has been modified for camber adjustment).

6

Coil spring/strut body/steering knuckle - replacement

Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models Refer to illustrations 6.2, 6.4, 6.5 and 6.6 1 Refer to Section 5 to remove the coil spring/strut body/steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle. Mount the assembly in a sturdy vise. Warning: A compressed coil spring can be dangerous. Follow all instruc¬ tions included with the spring compressor for safe operation, and if chains or safety clamps are included with the tool, use them. 2 The strut body and the steering knuckle are serviced as an assembly (they are welded together). If either the spring or the strut/knuckle assembly must be replaced, rent or purchase a coil-spring compressor and attach it to the spring with the two clamps on opposite sides of the spring (see illustration). 3 Refer to Section 7 and remove the nut from the strut cartridge, then remove the upper strut components to take the compressed spring off. Warning: When releasing the compressor from the spring, release it just as evenly and slowly as you Installed It. 4 To replace the strut cartridge (out of vehicle), use a two-pin spanner to remove the cartridge nut (see illustration). Note: The special tool used in Section 7 isn’t necessary when the spring is removed from the strut assembly. 5 Remove the cartridge from the strut/knuckle assembly (see illustration). 6 Reassembly is the reverse of the removal process. Note: When installing a new spring, make sure the end of the lowest coil fits snugly into the notch on the lower spring mount and stays there during the installation process (see illustration).

6.6 When installing the spring, place the end into the recessed portion of the lower seat (arrow)

2000 and later Monte Carlo and Impala models Removal 7 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 8 Mark the strut-to-steering knuckle relationship by making a line around the strut-to-steering knuckle bolt heads. 9 Remove the nuts from the strut-toknuckle bolts and knock the bolts out with a brass punch and a hammer. 10 Separate the strut from the steering knuckle. Be careful not to overextend the inner CV joint or stretch the brake hose. If necessary, support the control arm with a jack. 11 Support the strut and spring assembly with one hand and remove the upper strut mounting nuts and bolt. Remove the strut and spring assembly.

Inspection 12 Check the strut body for leaking fluid, dents, cracks and other obvious damage, which would warrant repair or replacement. 13 Check the coil spring for chips and cracks in the spring coating (this will cause premature spring failure due to corrosion). Inspect the spring seat for hardening, cracks and general deterioration. 14 If wear or damage is evident, replace the strut and/or coil spring as necessary (see Section 7).

Installation 15 Guide the strut assembly up into the fenderwell and insert the upper mounting studs through the holes in the shock tower. Once the studs protrude from the shock tower, install the nuts so the strut won’t fall back through. This may require an assistant, since the strut is quite heavy and awkward. 16 Slide the steering knuckle into the strut flange and insert the two bolts. Install the nuts, align the marks you made prior to disassembly and tighten the nuts to the

10-7

7.2 Remove the strut shaft nut using this tool (arrow) with a wrench on it, and an extension with a Torx bit through the top to hold the strut shaft from turning torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 17 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 18 Tighten the upper mounting nuts and bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 19 Drive the vehicle to a dealer service department or an alignment shop to have the front wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted (this is only necessary if the strut has been modified for camber adjustment).

7

Strut cartridge- replacement in vehicle

Note 1: On all Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models the front strut cartridge can be replaced with the strut and spring assembly installed in the vehicle. Note 2: On 2000 and later Monte Carlo and Impala models, the strut assemblies are not serviceable and must be replaced if a problem develops. However, strut assemblies complete with springs may be available on an exchange basis, which eliminates much time and work (refer to Section 6). Whichever route you choose to take, check on the cost and availability of parts before disassembling your vehicle.

Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.3a, 7.3b, 7.4a, 7.4b and 7.5 1 Mark the position of the strut mount cover (see illustration 5.2) and remove the nuts and the cover. Note; The vehicle should be on the ground with full weight on the suspension. 2 Remove the strut shaft nut, using a special tool that grips the nut while allowing a Torx bit to be used to keep the shaft from turning (see illustration).

10-8

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

7.3a Remove the strut mount bushing (arrow)...

3 Pry out the strut mount bushing and the upper strut bumper (see illustrations). You may have to compress the strut shaft down into the cartridge using a length of pipe that just fits over the strut shaft. 4 Remove the strut cartridge nut using a special tool, which engages with the slots in the nut (available at most auto parts stores) (see illustrations). 5 Grasp the strut cartridge and lift it out (see illustration). 6 If the old cartridge had been leaking oil, use a suction pump to remove the damper fluid from the strut body and pour it into an approved oil container. 7 Insert the replacement strut cartridge, which is a self-contained unit, into position and install the nut. Tighten the cartridge nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 8 Install the bumper. 9 Temporarily install the strut shaft nut enough to grip it with locking pliers to raise the shaft if it doesn’t come up by itself, then remove the nut and install the bushing. 10 Install the strut shaft nut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi¬ cations. 11 Install the strut mount cover and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

8

Front hub and wheel bearing assembly - removal and installation

Note: The front hub and wheel bearing assembly is sealed-for-life and must be replaced as a unit. Warning: Dust created by the brake system is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only.

7.3b ... and the upper strut bumper (arrow)

7.4b In use, the tool fits down over the strut shaft and a breaker bar can be used to turn it

7.4a Strut cartridge nut removal tool - the lugs at the large end fit into the slots in the nut

7.5 Lift the cartridge out

Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo models

2000 Monte Carlo and Impala models- removal and installation

1 The hub/bearing assembly is pressed onto the front driveaxle. Refer to Chapter 8 for removal of the driveaxle. 2 Take the driveaxle to a dealership, driveline shop or other automotive repair facility to have the hub/bearing assembly pressed off the driveaxle. 3 Inspect the bearing assembly and if it is to be reused, grease the axle splines with multi-purpose grease and have the shop press it onto the driveaxle. Note: Only a new driveaxle nut should be used. Do not reuse the old one. Tighten the nut to the Specifica¬ tions listed in Chapter 8. 4 Push the driveaxle and hub/bearing assembly into position and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 8 Specifications. 5 Install the brake disc, caliper and (if equipped) the ABS sensor (see Chapter 9). 6 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

7 Remove the wheel cover, then break the driveaxle/hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar. Note: If the socket won't fit through the opening in the center of the wheel, remove the wheel and install the spare (the nut is very tight and is easier to loosen when the wheel is on the ground). 8 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 9 Remove the driveaxle/hub nut and washer. To prevent the disc/hub from turning, insert a long punch into the brake disc cooling vanes and allow it to rest against the caliper mounting bracket. 10 Remove the caliper and hang it out of the way with a piece of wire, then remove the caliper mounting bracket (see Chapter 9). Pull the disc off the hub. 11 Unplug the electrical connector for the wheel speed sensor. 12 Working from the back side of the steering knuckle, remove the hub retaining

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

9.2 Disconnect the stabilizer bar mounts by removing the pivot bolts/nuts (A), allowing the insulator brackets to come out with the bar, or remove the bracket bolts (B), spread the clamp and remove the bar from the clamp (C is the rubber insulator) bolts from the steering knuckle. Remove the disc shield. 13 Attach a puller to the hub flange and draw it off the driveaxle. The hub assembly should come right out of the steering knuckle, but if it doesn’t, tap it from side-toside to free it. Carefully guide the wiring harness and electrical connector for the wheel speed sensor through the opening between the driveaxle outer CV joint and the steering knuckle. Caution: Be careful not to pull outward on the driveaxle, as this could separate the inner CV joint components. 14 Clean the mating surfaces on the steering knuckle, bearing flange and knuckle bore. 15 Insert the hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle and onto the end of the driveaxle. Position the disc shield and install the three bolts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 16 Install the brake disc, caliper mounting bracket and caliper (see Chapter 9). 17 Install the hub nut and tighten it securely to seat the driveaxle in the hub. Prevent the axle from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the caliper and into a disc cooling vane. 18 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 19 Tighten the driveaxle/hub nut to the torque listed in the Chapter 8 Specifications.

9 Stabilizer bar and bushings (rear) - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 9.2 and 9.5 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from roiling off the jackstands. 2 Remove the bolts and detach the two stabilizer shaft insulators at the chassis (see illustration).

9.5 Remove the two strut-to-knuckle nuts (arrows) and pull off the stabilizer bar end clamps and rubber insulators 3 Mark the strut-to-knuckle position by scribing or painting around the strut bolts and nuts. 5 Support the left knuckle with a jack and remove the nuts from the strut-to-knuckle bolts (see illustration). Warning: Do not remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts. 6 The strut-to-knuckle nuts retain the end clamps on the stabilizer bar. Pry the clamps and insulators from the ends of the bar. 7 Remove the stabilizer bar through the left side. Note: You may need a prybar or large screwdriver to pry the bar ends past the stmt. 8 Inspect the bushings for cracks, hardening and wear. Replace them if necessary. 9 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure the marks made in Step 3 line up before tightening the knuckle bolts.

10 Rear strut - removal, inspection and installation Refer to illustrations 10.3 and 10.9 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Support the bottom of the knuckle with a floor jack. 3 Open the trunk and loosen the three strut-to-body nuts (see illustration). 4 Detach the brake hose bracket from the strut housing. 5 Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire (see Chapter 9). 6 Mark the relationship of the strut to the knuckle and outline the knuckle bolts/nuts. 7 Detach the stabilizer bar from the knuckle (see Section 9). 8 Remove the strut-to-body nuts (see illustration 10.3), and lower the strut assembly until there is no more spring

10-9

10.3 Location of the rear strut-to-body bolts (arrows)

10.9 Remove the rear strut-to-knuckle bolts (A) - B is the brake hose bracket bolt pressure on the knuckle. 9 Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and knock the bolts out with a brass or plastic hammer (see illustration). 10 Separate the strut from the knuckle and remove the strut (with coil spring assembly in place) from the vehicle. 11 Refer to Section 6 for removal of the coil spring from the strut. If the strut is being replaced, install the coil spring and upper strut components from the old assembly to the new strut. Note: There is no serviceable cartridge on the rear struts. The strut itself must be replaced. 12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure the strut-to-knuckle alignment marks made during Step 6 line up before tightening the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

11 Rear hub and wheel bearing assembly - removal and installation Refer to illustration 11.2 Note: The rear hub and wheel bearing assembly is sealed-for-life and must be replaced as a unit.

10-10

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

12.4 Remove the trailing arm-toknuckle bolt and nut (A) and the trailing arm-tochassis nut and bolt (B)

11.2 Disconnect the rear-wheel ABS electrical connector (arrow), if equipped

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support It securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the brake drum or the brake caliper and disc (see Chapter 9). Support the caliper with a piece of wire. If equipped, unplug the ABS electrical connector (see illustration). 3 Remove the four hub-to-knuckle bolts. 4 Remove the hub and bearing assembly, maneuvering it out through the brake caliper bracket as necessary.

Installation 5 Position the hub and bearing assembly on the knuckle and align the holes. Install the bolts. After all four bolts have been installed, tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 6 Install the brake drum or the brake caliper and disc, tightening the caliper bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 9 Specifi¬ cations. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in Chapter 1 Specifications.

12 Rear suspension arms - removal and installation 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from roiling off the jackstands. Remove the wheels. 2 Remove the stabilizer bar as outlined in Section 9. 3 Remove the brake drums or calipers and discs from the hubs. See Chapter 9 if difficulty is encountered. If equipped, unplug the ABS electrical connectors (see illus¬ tration 11.2).

Trailing arms Refer to illustration 12.4 4 Remove the trailing arm-to-knuckle nut and bolt and the trailing arm-to-chassis nut and bolt (see illustration). 5 Detach the trailing arm and lower it from the vehicle. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications until the vehicle weight has been lowered onto the suspension (you can simulate normal ride height by raising the suspension with a floor jack). Reconnect the ABS electrical connector, if removed.

Lateral link rods Refer to illustrations 12.7 and 12.8 7 Remove the nuts and bolts connecting the rods to the knuckle (see Illustration). 8 Remove the rod inner bolts at the cross¬ member (see illustration). Note: The bolts for the front rods are difficult to access. You will have to lower the rear of the fuel tank a few inches for better access (see Chapter 4). 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Don’t tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications until the vehicle weight has been lowered onto the suspension (you can simulate normal ride height by raising the suspension with a floor jack). After installation have the rear toe checked by a dealer service department or alignment shop.

13 Rear knuckle - removal and installation 1 Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship and scribe or paint a line around the knuckle nuts. 2 Refer to Section 11 and remove the rear hub/bearing assembly. 3 On models with rear drum brakes, remove the brake shoe assembly and the backing plate (see Chapter 9).

12.7 Lateral link rod details 1 2 3 4 5

Knuckle Front rod Rear rod Crossmember Rear rod inner mounting bolt 6 Front rod inner mounting bolt 7 Rear rod outer mounting bolt (front rod bolt similar) 12.8 Locations of the inner lateral link rod bolts/nuts (arrows)

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-11

14.2 use a Tone bit to remove the two airbag module screws from behind the steering wheel

14.3a Use a small screwdriver to release the plastic locking clip (arrow) from the airbag module connector, then ...

14.3b ... squeeze the tab and separate the airbag connector

4 Remove the bolts/nuts and detach the trailing arm, lateral link rods and stabilizer bar from the knuckle (see Sections 9 and 12). 5 Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and knock the bolts out with a brass or plastic hammer. 7 Separate the knuckle from the strut. 8 To install the knuckle, slide it into the strut flange. Install the stabilizer bar bracket and insert the two bolts. Install the nuts finger tight. Connect the lateral link rods and trailing arm to the knuckle, but do not tighten at this time. Align the marks made in Step 1 and tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 9 Don’t tighten the trailing arm or lateral link rod bolts/nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications until the vehicle weight has been lowered onto the suspension (you can simulate normal ride height by raising the suspension with a floor

jack). After installation have the rear toe checked by a dealer service department or alignment shop.

Refer to illustrations 14.2, 14.3a, 14.3b, 14.4, 14.5, 14.6, 14.7 and 14.8 Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. Always turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position, place the ignition switch in the Lock position and disable the airbag system (see Chapter 12) before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Note: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is

turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 Using a number 30 Torx bit, remove the two screws that secure the airbag module to the steering wheel (see illustration). 3 Lift the airbag module carefully away from the steering wheel and disconnect the yellow airbag electrical connector. This is a two-part disconnection, as there is a plastic clip that must be removed before the connector can be disconnected (see illustra¬ tions). Remove the module. Warning: When carrying the airbag, module, keep the driver’s side of it away from your body, and when you place it on the bench, have the driver’s side facing up. 4 Remove the steering wheel nut (see illustration). 5 Mark the relationship of the steering wheel to the shaft (see illustration). 6 Install a steering wheel puller (available at most auto parts stores) and turn the center bolt until the wheel is free (see illustration).

14.4 Remove the steering wheel nut with a deep socket

14.5 Make two paint marks (arrow) to show alignment of wheel before removal

14.6 A steering wheel puller threads into two holes in the steering wheel - tightening the center bolt removes the wheel

14 Steering wheel - removal and installation

10-12

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

r

14.7 Disconnect the horn and ground wire connector

15.3 Make a paint mark (arrow) to indicate exactiy how many threads were engaged in the tie-rod end Q'am nut has been backed off) 7 Remove the puller and disconnect the horn and ground wire connector (see illus¬ tration). Remove the steering wheel. Warning: Don’t allow the steering shaft to turn with the steering wheel removed. If the shaft turns, the airbag coil assembly (the mechanism which protects the airbag wiring when the steering wheel is turned) will become uncentered, which may cause the airbag harness to break when the vehicle is returned to service. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the airbag coil assembly is centered (see illustration). If it isn’t, see Chapter 12, Section 8, Step 14 for the centering procedure. Connect the airbag connector to the back of the airbag module just as it was before steering wheel removal, i.e. with the plastic locking device in place. Be sure to tighten the steering wheel nut and airbag screws to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 9 Refer to Chapter 12 for the procedure to enable the airbag system.

14.8 When properly aligned, the airbag coil will be centered with the marks aligned (in circle here) and the tab fitted between the projections on the top of the steering column (arrow)

15.4a It’s best to use a puller to remove the tie-rod end, but...

15 Tie-rod ends - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 15.2, 15.3, 15.4a and 15.4b

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off fhe jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut (see

illustration). 3 Mark the relationship of the tie-rod end to the threaded portion of the tie-rod (see illustration). This will ensure the toe-in setting is restored when reassembled. 4 Remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut and disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm with a puller (see illus-

15.2 Hold the tie-rod with one wrench on the flats (A) while using another wrench to loosen the jam nut (B)

15.4b ... a “pickle fork” tool can also be used (hammered between the tie-rod end and the knuckle), but there’s a good chance the boot will be ruined, which is OK if you are replacing the tie-rod end with a new one

i j

; i

trations). Note: Back the tie-rod end nut off until it is flush with the stud, apply the puller's center bolt against it until it breaks free, then remove the nut and detach the tie-rod end from the knuckle arm. 5 Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tierod.

Installation 6 Thread the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod to the marked position and connect the tierod end to the steering arm. Install the castel¬ lated nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a new cotter pin. 7 Tighten the jam nut securely and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 8 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

;

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

16.8 Align the connector on the boot with the breather tube (arrow)

16 Steering gear boots replacement Refer to illustration 16.8 1 Remove the steering gear from the vehicle (see Section 17). 2 Remove the tie-rod ends from the steering gear (see Section 15). 3 Remove the jam nuts and outer boot clamps. 4 Cut off both Inner boot clamps and discard them. 5 Mark the location of the breather tube (if used) in relation to the rack assembly, then remove the boots and the tube. 6 Install a new clamp on the inner end of the boot. 7 Apply multi-purpose grease to groove on the tie-rod (where the outer boot clamp will ride) and the mounting grooves on the steering gear (where the inner boot end will be clamped). 8 Line up the breather tube with the marks made during removal and slide the new boot onto the steering gear housing (see illustration). 9 Make sure the boot isn’t twisted, then tighten the new inner clamp. 10 Install the outer clamps and tie-rod end jam nuts. 11 Install the tie-rod ends (see Section 15) and tighten the nuts securely. 12 Install the steering gear assembly.

17 Steering gear - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 17.6, 17.12 and 17.13 Warning; Make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear is removed or you could damage the airbag system. To prevent the shaft from turning, place the ignition key in the LOCK position or thread the seat belt through the steering wheel and clip it into place.

17.6 Remove the pinch boit (arrow) - this view is looking down on the steering gear beiow the brake master cylinder and booster

Removal 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Note: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure, which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 On models equipped with the 3.4L DOHC engine, remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. 3 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from roiling off the jackstands. Remove both front wheels. Note: The jackstands must be behind the front suspension subframe, not supporting the vehicle by the subframe. 4 On models equipped with the 3.4L DOHC engine, remove the right side engine splash shield. 5 Set the steering wheel straight ahead, check that the wide spline or “block tooth” on the upper steering shaft assembly is at the 12 o’clock position and that the ignition switch is set to “lock.” Warning: Failure to do this can result in damage to the airbag system's coil unit. 6 Roll back the boot at the bottom of the steering column to expose the flange and steering coupler assembly. Mark the coupler and steering column shaft, remove the pinch bolt and separate the steering column from the power steering input shaft (see illus¬ tration). 7 On models equipped with the 3.4L DOHC V6 engine, remove the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly. 8 Separate the tie-rod ends from the steering arms (see Section 15). 9 Support the rear of the subframe assembly with a jack and remove the rear bolts. Loosen (but do not remove) the front bolts of the subframe and lower the rear approximately five inches (three inches on

10-13

17.12 Disconnect the two fluid lines (arrows) from the rack - this view is looking forward from the rear of the subframe models equipped with the 3.4L DOHC V6 engine). 10 Remove the heat shield from the steering gear. 11 Remove the fluid pipe clip from the rack. 12 Place a drain pan or tray under the vehicle, positioned beneath the steering gear. Using a flare-nut wrench, disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid loss (see illustration). 13 Remove the steering gear mounting bolts and nuts (see illustration). 15 Lift the steeririg gear out of the mounts then move it forward and detach the coupler from the steering gear. 16 Support the steering gear and carefully maneuver the entire assembly out through the left side wheel opening.

Installation 17 Pass the steering gear assembly through the left wheel opening and place it in position in the mounts. Install the mounting bolts and nuts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

17.13 Steering rack mounting bolt/nut (arrow) - left-side shown, right-side similar

10-14

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

18.6 Disconnect the return line (A) and the pressure line (B) 18 Attach the pressure and return lines to the steering gear. Connect the line retainer. 19 Install the heat shield. 20 Raise the subframe into position and install NEW bolts. Tighten the subframe bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi¬ cations. 21 Connect the tie-rod ends to the steering arms and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install new cotter pins. 22 Install the exhaust system, if removed. 23 Center the steering gear and have an assistant guide the coupler onto the steering shaft, with the previously applied marks aligned. Install and tighten the pinch bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica¬ tions. Warning: Be sure the shaft is seated before you install the pinch bolt or the shafts may disengage. 24 Install the front wheels, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 25 Reconnect the negative battery cable. 26 Fill the power steering pump with the recommended fluid, bleed the system (see Section 19) and recheck the fluid level. Check for leaks. 27 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

18 Power steering pump - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 18.6, 18.8, 18.9a and 18.9b

Removal 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Note: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure, which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 Remove the coolant recovery reservoir, if necessary.

18.8 Using a socket and short extension inserted through one of the holes in the pulley (arrow), remove the three pump mounting bolts - rotate the pulley to access each bolt

3 On models equipped with the 3.4L DOHC V6 engine, remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. 4 On models equipped with the 3.1 L and 3.4L OHV engine, detach the ignition control wiring harness near the pump and .position it aside. 5 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 6 Position a drain pan under the vehicle. Remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible with a suction pump, then remove the return line (rubber hose connection with clamp) from the rack to the reservoir (see illustration). 7 Using a flare-nut wrench and a back-up wrench, disconnect the pressure hose from the pump. 8 Remove the pump mounting bolts and detach the pump from the engine, being careful not to spill the remaining fluid (see illustration).

Installation 9 If a new pump is to be instailed, the pulley will have to be transferred to the new pump. Use a power steering pulley puller (available at most auto parts stores) to remove the pulley and install it on the new pump (see illustrations). Note: Take note of how far the pulley was pressed onto the old pump’s shaft before removing the pulley. 10 If your new pump doesn’t come with a reservoir, you can swap your old one to the new pump. Remove the reservoir by pulling on the two sliding clips that hold the reservoir to the pump. Install a new 0-ring at the fluid connection and clip the reservoir onto the new pump. 11 Position the pump on the mounting bracket and install the bolts. 12 Connect the pressure and return lines to the pump. 13 Fill the reservoir with the recommended fluid and bleed the system, following the procedure described in the next Section.

18.9a Remove the pulley with the puller the flanged collar (arrow) fits onto the groove on the front of the pulley

18.9b Press the pulley onto the shaft with the installation tool

19 Power steering system - bleeding 1 Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been discon¬ nected, the power steering system must be bled to remove air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels turned all the way to the left and the ignition key OFF, check the power steering fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches the Cold mark on the dipstick, 3 Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side-to-side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Don’t allow the reservoir to run out of fluid. 5 When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight ahead position and leave the engine running for several minutes before shutting it off. Recheck the fluid level. 6 Road test the vehicle to be sure the

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems steering system is functioning normaiiy with no noise. 7 Recheck the fiuid ievei to be sure it’s up to the Hot mark on the dipstick whiie the engine is at normai operating temperature. Add fiuid if necessary.

20 Wheels and tires - general information Refer to illustration 20.1 Aii vehicies covered by this manuai are equipped with metric-size fibergiass or steei beited radiai tires (see illustration). The use of other size or type tires may affect the ride and handiing of the vehicie. Don’t mix different types of tires, such as radiais and bias belted, on the same vehicle, since handling may be seriously affected. Tires should be replaced in pairs on the same axle, but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it’s the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure affects handling and wear, the tire pressures should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they’re bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel repairs by welding or peening aren’t recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and perfor¬ mance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

21

10-15

METRIC TIRE SIZES P 185

/

80 R 13

TIRE TYPE

RIM DIAMETER

P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY C-COMMERCIAL

ASPECT RATIO (SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH) 70

SECTION WIDTH

75

(MILLIMETERS) 185 195 205 ETC

80

(INCHES) 13 14 15

CONSTRUCTION TYPE R-RADIAL B-BIAS - BELTED D-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

20.1 Metric size code

CAMBER ANGLE (FRONT VIEW)

Wheel alignment - general information

Refer to illustration 21.1 A wheel alignment refers to the adjust¬ ments made to the wheels so they’re in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear. The adjustment most commonly required is the toe-in adjustment but camber adjustment is also possible (see illustration). Getting the proper wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which compli¬ cated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, attempt to give you a basic idea of what’s involved with wheel alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to

21.1 Front end alignment details

CASTER ANGLE (SIDE VIEW)

TOE-IN (TOP VIEW)

A minus B = C (degrees camber) D = degrees caster E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches) G = toe-in (expressed in degrees)

10-16

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface. On the front end, toe adjustment is controlled by the tie-rod end position on the tie-rod. On the rear, a special

tool Is required to adjust the position of the rear lateral link rod in its inner mount. Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber Is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical and this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which

contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle Is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Camber can be adjusted after the strut mounting holes have been elongated with a file. Camber adjustment, front or rear, must be done with the vehicle on the alignment rack, by an experienced technician. Cdister is not adjustable. If the caster angle Is not to specification, the suspension components must be checked for damage.

11-1

Chapter 11 Body Contents Section Body - maintenance. Body repair - major damage. Body repair - minor damage. Bumpers - removai and instaiiation. Center consoie - removai and instaiiation. Dashboard trim panels - removal and installation. Door - removal, installation and adjustment. Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and installation. Door trim panel - removal and installation. Door window glass - removal and installation. Door window glass regulator - removal and installation. Front fender - removal and installation. General information.

2 6 5 11 21 22 16 17 15 18 19 12 1

Section Flinges and locks - maintenance. Flood - removal, installation and adjustment. Flood latch and release cable - removal and Installation. Outside mirrors - removal and installation. Seat belt check. Seats - removal and installation. Trunk lid and balance spring - removal, installation and adjustment. Trunk lid latch, latch striker and lock cylinder removal and installation. Upholstery and carpets - maintenance. Vinyl trim - maintenance. Windshield and fixed glass - replacement.

1 General information

2 Body - maintenance

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Aiways disable the airbag system (see Chapter 12) before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel. Failure to follow these procedures may cause accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. The airbag circuits are easily identified by yellow insulation covering the entire wiring harness. Do not use electrical test equipment on any of these wires or tamper with them in any way. Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. These models feature a “unibody” construction, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain body components are particu¬ larly vulnerable to accident damage and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body moldings, front fenders, doors, bumpers, the hood, trunk lid and all glass. Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in this Chapter.

1 The condition of your vehicle’s body is very important, because the resale value depends a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to repair a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical compo¬ nents. The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame and the engine compartment, are equally important, although they don’t require as frequent attention as the rest of the body. 2 Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and other problems. The front suspension components should be greased after completion of this job. 3 At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment with a steam cleaner or water-soluble degreaser. 4 The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint. 5 The body should be washed about once a week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very carefully, it

7 9 10 20 24 23 13 14 4 3 8

can wear down the paint. 6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent.7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated parts, remember that the cleaner also removes part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

3 Vinyl trim - maintenance Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents, caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners. Plain soap and water works just fine, with a soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the tires.

11 Upholstery and carpets maintenance 1 Every three months, remove the floormats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Use a stiff whisk broom to brush the carpeting and

11-2 loosen dirt and dust, then vacuum the uphol¬ stery and carpets thoroughly, especially along seams and crevices. 2 Dirt and stains can be removed from carpeting with basic household or automotive carpet shampoos available in spray cans. Follow the directions and vacuum again, then use a stiff brush to bring back the “nap” of the carpet. 3 Most interiors have cloth or vinyl uphol¬ stery, either of which can be cleaned and maintained with a number of material-specific cleaners or shampoos available in auto supply stores. Follow the directions on the product for usage, and always spot-test any upholstery cleaner on an inconspicuous area (bottom edge of a back seat cushion) to ensure that it doesn’t cause a color shift in the material. 4 After cleaning, vinyl upholstery should be treated with a protectant. Note: Make sure the protectant container indicates the product can be used on seats - some products may make a seat too siippery. Caution: Do not use protectant on vinyicovered steering wheels. 5 Leather upholstery requires special care. It should be cleaned regularly with saddlesoap or leather cleaner. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to clean leather upholstery. 6 After cleaning, regularly treat leather upholstery with a leather conditioner, rubbed in with a soft cotton cloth. Never use car wax on leather upholstery. 7 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seating areas of the seats with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

5

Body repair - minor damage

Plastic body panels The following repair procedures are for minor scratches and gouges. Repair of more serious damage should be left to a dealer service department or qualified auto body shop. Below is a list of the equipment and materials necessary to perform the following repair procedures on plastic body panels. Although a specific brand of material may be mentioned, it should be noted that equivalent products from other manufacturers may be used instead. \Nax, grease and silicone removing solvent Cloth-backed body tape Sanding discs Drill motor with three-inch disc holder Hand sanding block Rubber squeegees Sandpaper Non-porous mixing palette Wood paddle or putty knife Curved tooth body file Plastic body panel repair compound and material

Chapter 11

Body

Flexible panels (front and rear bumper fascia) 1 Remove the damaged panel, if hecessary or desirable. In most cases, repairs can be carried out with the panel installed. 2 Clean the area(s) to be repaired with a wax, grease and silicone removing solvent applied with a water-dampened cloth. 3 If the damage is structural, that is, if it extends through the panel, clean the backside of the panel area to be repaired as well. Wipe dry. 4 Sand the rear surface about 1-1/2 in beyond the break. 5 Cut two pieces of fiberglass cloth large enough to overlap the break by about 1-1/2 in. Cut only to the required length. 6 Mix the adhesive from the repair kit according to the instructions included with the kit, and apply a layer of the mixture approximately 1/8-inch thick on the backside of the panel. Overlap the break by at least 1-1/2 inches 7 Apply one piece of fiberglass cloth to the adhesive and cover the cloth with additional adhesive. Apply a second piece of fiberglass cloth to the adhesive and immedi¬ ately cover the cloth with additional adhesive insufficient quantity to fill the weave. 8 Allow the repair to cure for 20 to 30 minutes at 60-degrees to 80-degrees F. 9 If necessary, trim the excess repair material at the edge. 10 Remove all of the paint film over and around the area(s) to be repaired. The repair material should not overlap the painted surface. 11 With a drill motor and a sanding disc (or a rotary file), cut a “V” along the break line approximately 1/2-inch wide. Remove all dust and loose particles from the repair area. 12 Mix and apply the repair material. Apply a light coat first over the damaged area; then continue applying material until it reaches a level slightly higher than the surrounding finish. 13 Cure the mixture for 20 to 30 minutes at 60-degrees to 80-degrees F. 14 Roughly establish the contour of the area being repaired with a body file. If low areas or pits remain, mix and apply additional adhesive. 15 Block sand the damaged area with sandpaper to establish the actual contour of the surrounding surface. 16 If desired, the repaired area can be temporarily protected with several light coats of primer. Because of the special paints and techniques required for flexible body panels, it is recommended that the vehicle be taken to a paint shop for completion of the body repair.

Steel body panels See photo sequence

Repair of minor scratches 17

If the scratch is superficial and does not

penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area with clean water. 18 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the scratch area. 19 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents 20 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. 21 If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched. 22 If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self-tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with locking pliers. 23 The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as

Chapter 11 effectively by hand with sandpaper. To compiete the preparation for fiiiing, score the surface of the bare metai with a screwdriver or the tang of a fiie, or driii smail hoies in the affected area. This wiii provide a good grip for the fiiler material. To complete the repair, see the subsection on filling and painting later in this Section.

Repair of rust holes or gashes 24 Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively. 25 With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust. 26 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a slight depression for the filler material. 27 Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is acces¬ sible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint. 28 Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the hole with wire mesh. 29 Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. See the following subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting 30 Many types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking, body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufac¬ turer’s instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly. 31 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area. Draw the appli¬ cator across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the original one is achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surrounding metal. 32 Once the filler has hardened, the excess

Body

can be removed with a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage. 33 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone. 34 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfec¬ tions with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely. 35 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels. This will help minimize the effects of a slight mismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking tape and several thickness of newspaper for the masking operations. 36 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional coats. 37 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair area and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair area and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then use a very

11-3 fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of the new paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a coat of wax.

6 Body repair - major damage 1 Major damage must be repaired by an auto body/frame repair shop with the necessary welding and hydraulic straight¬ ening equipment. 2 If the damage has been serious, it is vital that the structure be checked for proper alignment or the vehicle’s handling character¬ istics may be adversely affected. Other problems, such as excessive tire wear and wear in the driveline and steering may occur. 3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, fenders, etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously damaged components should be replaced rather than repaired. Sometimes these components can be found in a wrecking yard that specializes in used vehicle components, often at considerable savings over the cost of new parts.

7 Hinges and locks - maintenance Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite lubricant.

8 Windshield and fixed glass replacement Replacement of the windshield and fixed glass requires the use of special fast setting adhesive/caulk materials. These operations should be left to a dealer or a shop specializing in glass work.

9 Hood - removal, installation and adjustment Note: The hood is somewhat awkward to remove and install, at least two people should perform this procedure.

Removal and installation Refer to illustrations 9.3 and 9.4 1 Open the hood, then place blankets or pads over the fenders and cowl area of the body. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off. 2 Disconnect any cables or wires that will interfere with removal. 3 Make marks or scribe a line around the

These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minor damage in this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1

If you can’t access the backside of the body panel to hammer out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart...

2

... then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it. Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help ‘pop’ the metal back to its original shape. When you’re finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch below the surface of the surrounding metal

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more helpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammer down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary. Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you won’t have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn’t harden, use a plastic applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring it bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

7 Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with your fingernail. Use a body file or Surform tool (shown here) to roughshape the filler

8 Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to work the filler down until it’s smooth and even. Work down to finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending up with 360 or 400 grit

9 You shouldn’t be able to feel any ridge at the transition from the filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint. As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust and mask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don’t spray the primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available inexpensively from auto parts stores

11 The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it’s smooth. Repeat the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a perfectly smooth surface

12 Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply the finish coat. Don’t attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

11-6

9.3 Before removing the hood, draw a mark around the hinge piate

Chapter 11

Body

9.4 Use a small screwdriver to pry the retaining clip out of its locking groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

9.10a Remove the bolts and plastic retaining pins (arrows) securing the air deflector to access the hood latch assembly accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. The airbag circuits are easily identified by yellow insulation covering the entire wiring harness. Do not use electricai test equipment on any of these wires or tamper with them in any way.

Latch

9.10b Loosen the bolts (arrows) and move the hood latch to adjust the hood closed position

9.11 Screw the hood bumpers (arrow) in or out to adjust the hood flush with the fenders

hood hinge to ensure proper alignment during instailation (see illustration). 4 Have an assistant support the w/eight of the hood and detach the support struts (see illustration). 5 Remove the hinge-to-hood bolts and lift off the hood. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the hinge bolts with the marks made in step 3.

11 Finally, adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood, when closed, is flush with the fenders (see illustration). 12 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white, lithium-base grease to prevent binding and wear.

Adjustment Refer to illustrations 9.10a, 9.10b and 9.11 7 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by moving the hinge plate slot after loosening the bolts or nuts. 8 Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate so you can determine the amount of movement. 9 Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts and carefully lower the hood to check the position. 10 If necessary after installation, the entire hood latch assembly can be adjusted upand-down as well as from side-to-side on the radiator support so the hood closes securely and flush with the fenders. To make the adjustment, first remove the air deflector covering the hood latch (see illustration). Scribe a line or mark around the hood latch mounting bolts to provide a reference point, then loosen them and reposition the latch assembly, as necessary (see illustration). Following adjustment, retighten the mounting bolts.

Refer to iilustration 10.2 1 Scribe a line around the latch to aid alignment when installing, then remove the retaining bolts securing the hood latch to the radiator support (see illustration 9.10b). Remove the latch. 2 Disconnect the hood release cable by disengaging the cable from the latch assembly (see illustration). 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: Adjust the iatch so the hood engages securely when closed and the hood bumpers are slightly compressed.

Cable

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Aiways disabie the airbag system (see Chapter 12) before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel. Failure to follow these procedures may cause

Refer to illustrations 10.6 and 10.7 4 Disconnect the hood release cable from the latch assembly as described in step 1. 5 Attach a piece of thin wire or string to the end of the cable and unclip all remaining cable retaining clips. Note: It may be necessary on some vehicles to remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4) to allow access for release cable removal. 6 Working in the passenger compartment, remove the driver’s side lower insulating panel (see illustration).

10.2 Pry out the cable retainer (arrow) from the backside of the hood latch assembly, then disengage the cable

10.6 Detach the plastic clips (A) and remove the driver’s side lower insulating panel (B) to access the hood release lever

10 Hood latch and release cableremoval and installation

Chapter 11 ^ 7 Remove the two hood release lever r mounting bolts and detach the hood release lever (see illustration). 8 Pull the cable and grommet rearward Into the passenger compartment until you can see the wire or string. Ensure that the new cable has a grommet attached then remove the wire or string from the old cable and fasten it to the new cable. 9 With the new cable attached to the wire or string, pull the wire or string back through the firewall until the new cable reaches the latch assembly. 10 Working in the passenger compartment, reinstall the new cable Into the hood release lever. Use pliers to crimp the retaining clip which secures the cable to the release lever. 11 The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal. Note: Push on the grommet with your fingers from the passenger compartment to seat the grommet in the firewall correctly.

11

Bumpers - removal and installation

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system (see Chapter 12) before working In the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or Instrument panel. Failure to follow these procedures may cause accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal Injury. The airbag circuits are easily Identified by yellow Insulation covering the entire wiring harness. Do not use electrical test equipment on any of these wires or tamper with them in any way. Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

Body

11-7

10.7 Remove the hood release lever retaining screws (arrows) and pull the cable rearward into the passenger compartment

11.3 Remove the inner fenderwell extension panel screws (arrows) from inside the wheel opening and from the lower front corner(s) of the bumper cover

3 Working in the front wheel opening, detach the retaining screws securing the inner fenderwell extension panels to the bumper cover (see illustration). 4 Remove the lower radiator air deflector and the lower bumper cover support panel (see illustrations). 5 Remove the retaining screws securing the bumper cover to each fender (see illus¬ tration). Disconnect the side marker lamp electrical connectors. 6 Working under the front of the vehicle, remove the retaining nuts securing the bumper to the bumper energy absorbers (see illustration). 7 Remove the upper retaining pins

securing the bumper cover in the hood opening (see illustration). 8 Separate the bumper cover from the fenders, then pull the bumper assembly straight out and away from the vehicle to remove it. 9 To remove the bumper cover from the bumper, simply detach the plastic clips securing the upper and lower edges of the bumper cover. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

11.4a Detach the lower air deflector ...

11.4b ... and the lower bumper cover support bolt (arrow)

11.6 Using a ratchet, long extension and a socket, remove the front bumper retaining bolts (arrows)

11.7 Remove the the center pin to release the clips securing the bumper cover in the hood opening

Rear bumper Refer to illustrations 11.12, 11.13, 11.15a, 11.15b, 11.Wand 11.17 11 Apply the parking brake, raise the rear of

Front bumper Refer to illustrations 11.3, 11.4a,11.4b, 11.5, II.Band 11.7 1 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

11.5 Detach the bolts (arrows) securing the bumper cover to both fenders

11-8

Chapter 11

Body

11.12 Detach the nuts, bolts and screws (arrows) and remove the rear wheel opening splash shield

11.13 Working in the splash shield opening, remove the bolt (arrow) securing the bumper cover to the rear quarter panels

11.15a Working in the trunk compartment, remove the remaining fasteners (arrows) securing the bumper cover to the rear quarter panels

11.15b Remove the retaining clips securing the bumper in the trunk lid opening

11.16 Detach the plastic retaining nuts (arrows) to release the tail light housing from the rear quarter panel

11.17 Using a ratchet, long extension and a socket, remove the rear bumper retaining bolts (arrows)

the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the rear wheels. 12 Working in the rear wheel opening, detach the splash shield located at the rear of the wheel opening from each side of the vehicle (see illustration). 13 Working under the vehicle, remove the retaining bolts securing the bumper cover to the rear quarter panels (see illustration). 14 Remove the rear side marker lights and the license plate lamp (see Chapter 12). 15 Working inside the trunk compartment, remove the plastic retaining nuts and clips securing the trunk finishing panels. Peel back the trunk finishing panels and remove the remaining nuts and bolts securing the

bumper cover to rear quarter panels and the trunk opening (see illustrations). 16 Detach the rear tail light housings, disconnect the electrical connectors and remove both tail light housings from the vehicle (see illustration). 17 Working back under the vehicle, remove the retaining nuts securing the bumper to the bumper energy absorbers (see illustration). Pull the bumper assembly straight out and away from the vehicle to remove it. 18 To remove the bumper cover from the bumper, simply detach the plastic clips securing the upper and lower edges of the bumper cover. 19 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Refer to illustrations 12.4, 12.6a, 12.6b, 12.6c and 12.6d 1 Remove the hood (see Section 9). 2 Raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheel. 3 Remove the rocker panel finish moulding (if equipped) from the side of the vehicle that the fender is to be removed. 4 Remove the inner fenderwell splash shield (see illustration). 5 Remove the front bumper assembly (see Section 11).

12.4 Detach the inner fenderwell retaining bolts (arrows) and remove the inner fenderwell

12.6a Remove the retaining bolt (arrow) securing the front of the fender

12.6b Remove the fender retaining bolt (arrow) located in the wheel opening

12 Front fender - removal and installation

Chapter 11

11-9

Body

12.6c Remove the retaining bolts (arrows) securing the fender to the rocker panel

12.6d Detach the remaining bolts (arrows) in the hood opening, then remove the fender from the vehicle

13.3 Before removing the trunk lid, draw marks around the bolt heads to aid in the reinstallation process

6 Remove the remaining fender mounting bolts (see illustrations). 7 Detach the fender. It’s a good idea to have an assistant support the fender while it’s being moved away from the vehicle to prevent damage to the surrounding body panels. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

remove the hinge bolts from both sides and lift the trunk lid off the vehicle. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: When reinstalling the trunk lid, align the hinge bolts with the marks made during removal.

trunk lid latch assembly can be adjusted up and down as well as from side to side on the trunk lid so the lid closes securely and is flush with the rear quarter panels. To do this, scribe a line around the trunk lid latch mounting bolts to provide a reference point. Then loosen the bolts and reposition the latch assembly as necessary (see illustration). Following adjustment, retighten the mounting bolts. 14 Adjust the bumpers on the trunk lid, so that the trunk lid is flush with the rear quarter panels when closed (see illustration). 15 The trunk lid latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and wear.

13 Trunk lid and balance spring removal, installation and adjustment Note: The trunk lid is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install - at least two people should perform this procedure.

Removal and installation Trunk lid Refer to illustration 13.3 1 Open the trunk lid and cover the edges of the trunk compartment with pads or cloths to protect the painted surfaces when the lid is removed. 2 Disconnect any cables or wire harness connectors attached to the trunk lid that would interfere with removal. 3 Make alignment marks around the trunk lid hinge bolts (see illustration). 4 While an assistant supports the lid,

13.7 Pry the balance spring up and over the spring retaining bracket to release spring tension

Balance spring Refer to illustration 13.7 6 Open the trunk lid and have an assistant support the lid. 7 Use a long piece of pipe or similar tool to pry the balance spring end up and over its retaining bracket (see illustration). 8 Slide the balance spring out from the hinged end and remove it from the vehicle. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment Refer to illustrations 13.13 and 13.14 10 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the trunk lid is done by moving the hood in relation to the hinge plate after loosening the bolts or nuts. 11 Scribe a line around the hinge bolt heads as described earlier in this Section so you can judge the amount of movement. 12 Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the trunk lid into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts and carefully lower the trunk lid to check the alignment. 13 If necessary after installation, the entire

13.13 Loosen the bolts (arrows) and move the latch assembly as necessary to adjust the trunk lid flush with the quarter panels in the closed position

14 Trunk lid latch, latch striker and lock cylinder - removal and installation

Latch and latch striker Refer to illustration 14.4 1 Unplug any electrical connectors and detach any cables from the latch assembly. 2 The trunk lid latch is retained by bolts which can readily be removed with a wrench (see illustration 13.13). For adjustment procedures, see Section 13.

13.14 Adjust the bumpers so they’re slightly compressed when the trunk lid is in the closed position

11-10

Chapter 11

Body

14.4 The latch striker is retained by nuts (arrows) - scribe a line around the striker before removal as a reference point

14.6a Remove the nuts (arrow) securing the center ...

14.6c Disconnect the electrical connectors from the reverse lamps and remove the bolts (arrows), then detach the rear trim panel from the trunk lid and remove it from the vehicle

14.7 Drill out the two rivets securing the lock cylinder

15.1 Detach the retaining screw (arrow) and pull the inside handle lever to remove the bezel

securing the lock cylinder (see illustration), then pull the lock cylinder out of the trunk lid and remove it from the vehicle. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the inside door handle trim bezel (see illus¬ tration). 2 On manual window equipped models, remove the window crank, using a hooked tool to remove the retainer clip (see illus¬ tration). A special tool is available for this purpose, but it’s not essential. With the clip removed, pull off the handle. 3 On power window equipped models, pry out the armrest switch control plate (see illustration) and disconnect the electrical connections. 4 Remove the finishing panel from above the armrest pull handle (see illus¬ tration).

3 To access the striker, remove the plastic retaining nuts and clips securing the rear trunk finishing panel. Then scribe a line around the latch striker to provide a reference point. 4 Detach the striker retaining nuts and remove the striker from the vehicle (see illus¬ tration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lock cylinder Refer to illustrations 14.6a, 14.6b, 14.6c and 14.7 6 Remove the trunk lid rear trim panel (see illustrations). 7 Using a small drill bit, drill out the rivets

15.2 If your vehicle is equipped with manual windows, use a hooked tool like this to remove the window crank retaining clip

15 Door trim panel - removal and installation Caution; On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

Removal Refer to illustrations 15.1, 15.2, 15.3, 15.4, 15.5, 15.6a, 15.6b, 15.7 and 15.9

15.3 Use a small screwdriver to disengage the retaining clips securing the switch control plate

14.6b

.. and the outer edges (arrow) of the rear trim panel...

15.4 Use a small screwdriver or similar tool to pry out the armrest finishing panel

Chapter 11

15.5 Remove the screws (arrow) securing the armrest pull handle 5 Detach the armrest pull handle retaining screw (see illustration). 6 Remove the remaining door panel retaining screws securing the outer edge of the door panel (see illustrations). 7 Insert a wide putty knife or a special trim panel removal tool between the trim panel and the head of the retaining clip to disengage the door panel retaining clips (see illustration). Note: Door trim panel retaining clips are approximately six to ten inches apart. Pry at the clip location only. Prying In between clips will result In distorted or damaged door trim panels. 8 Once all of the clips and screws are disengaged, detach the trim panel and remove the trim panel from the vehicle by gently pulling it up and out. 9 For access to the inner door remove the door panel support bracket (see illustration). Then peel back the watershield, taking care not to tear it. 10 To install the door panel, work through the window opening and engage the hooks on the back of the trim panel onto the door and push down until they are seated, then press the door panel retaining clips into place. Note: When Installing door trim panel retaining clips, make sure the clips are lined up with their mating holes first, then gently tap Inward with the palm of your hand. 11 The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal.

16

Door - removal, installation and adjustment

Body

11-11

15.6a Remove the screws (arrow) securing the upper...

15.6b ... and lower edges (arrow) of the door trim panel

15.7 Insert a trim removal tool or a putty knife between the door and the trim panel to disengage the clips along the outer edge of the door trim panel

15.9 To access the inner door, detach the door panel support bracket retaining clip

disconnect the negative cable from the battery if equipped with power windows. 2 Open the door all the way and support it on jacks or blocks covered with rags to prevent damaging the paint. 3 Remove the door trim panel and water deflector as described in (Section 15). 4 Unplug all electrical connections, ground wires and harness retaining clips from the door. Note: It is a good Idea to label all connections to aid the reassembly process. 5 Working on the door side, detach the rubber conduit between the body and the door. Pull the wiring harness through the conduit hole and remove the wiring from the door. 6 Mark around the door hinges with a pen or a scribe to facilitate realignment during reassembly.

7 Have an assistant hold the door, remove the hinge-to-door bolts (see illustrations) and lift the door off. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment Refer to illustration 16.12 9 Having proper door-to-body alignment is a critical part of a well functioning door assembly. First check the door hinge pins and bushings for excessive play. Note: If the door can be lifted (1/16-inch or more) without the car body lifting with it the hinge pins and bushings should be replaced. 10 Door-to-body alignment adjustments are made by loosening the hinge-to-body bolts or hinge-to-door bolts and moving the door. Proper body alignment is achieved

Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Note: The door is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install - at least two people should perform this procedure. This procedure applies to both front and rear doors.

Removal and installation Refer to illustrations 16.7a and 16.7b 1 Raise the window completely and

16.7a Front door retaining bolts (arrows)

16.7b Open the front door to access the rear door retaining bolts (arrows)

11-12

Chapter 11

Body

16.12 Adjust the door lock striker by loosening the mounting screws and gently tapping the striker in the desired direction

17.2 Remove the latch retaining screws (arrows) from the end of the door, then detach the actuating rods and pull the latch assembly through the access hole

17.9 To remove the lock cylinder, detach the plastic clip securing the lock rod, then pry off the lock cylinder retaining clip (arrow)

when the top of the doors are parallel with the roof secfion, fhe fronf door is flush wifh the fender, the rear door is flush with the rear quarter panel and the bottom of the doors are aligned with the lower rocker panel. If these goals can’t be reached by adjusting the hinge-to-body or hinge-to-door bolts, body alignment shims may have to be purchased and inserted behind the hinges to achieve correct alignment. 11 To adjust the door closed position, first check that the door latch is contacting the center of the latch striker bolt. If not, remove the striker bolt and add or subtract washers to achieve correct alignment. 12 Finally, adjust the latch striker bolt as necessary (up and down or sideways) to provide positive engagement with the latch mechanism (see illustration) and the door panel is flush with the center pillar or rear quarter panel.

2 Remove the screws securing the latch to the door (see illustration). 3 Working through the large access hole, position the latch as necessary to disengage the outside door handle and outside lock cylinder to latch rods and the inside handle to latch rod. 4 All door locking rods are attached by plastic clips. The plastic clips can be removed by unsnapping the portion engaging the connecting rod and then by pulling the rod out of its locating hole. 5 Position the latch as necessary to disengage the door lock actuator rod. Then remove the latch assembly from the door. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

11 Drill out the rivets securing the outside handle (see illustration), then pull the handle out of the door and remove it from the vehicle. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and installation

Door latch Refer to illustration 17.2 1 Raise the window then remove the door trim panel and watershield as described in (Section 15).

17.11 Lift the outside handle to access the retaining rivets (arrows)

Door lock cylinder and outside handle Refer to illustrations 17.9 and 17.11 7 To remove the lock cylinder, raise the window and remove the door trim panel and watershield as described in Section 15. 8 Working through the large access hole, disengage the plastic clip that secures the lock cylinder to the latch rod. 9 Using a pair of pliers, slide the lock cylinder retaining clip out of engagement and remove the lock cylinder from the door (see illustration). 10 To remove the outside handle, work through the access hole and disengage the plastic clip that secures the outside handleto-latch rod.

17.15 Detach the actuating rods (A), drill out the handle retaining rivets (B), then remove the retaining bolt (C)

Inside handle Refer to illustration 17.15 13 Remove the door trim panel as described in Section 15 and peel away the watershield. 14 Detach the actuating rods from the handle and position them aside. 15 Drill out the rivet securing the inside handle (see illustration). 16 Remove the handle retaining bolt. Then pull forward on the handle to disengage it from the inner door panel. 17 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18 Door window glass - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 18.4 and 18.5 1 Remove the door trim panel and the plastic watershield (see Section 15). 2 Lower the window glass all the way down into the door. 3 Carefully pry out the inner and outer weatherstripping from the door window opening. 4 Loosen the front guide channel (see illustration) and remove the window frame weafherstripping.

18.4 Remove the forward window guide channel retaining bolts (arrow)

Chapter 11

Body

11-13

18.5 Raise the window just enough to access the glass retaining rivets (arrow) through the hole in the door frame, then drill out the rivets securing the glass to the equalizer arm

19.4 Detach the window equalizer arm retaining bolt (arrow)

19.5 Remove the regulator retaining bolts (arrows) or drill out the window regulator rivets (if equipped)

5 Raise the window just enough to access the window retaining rivets through the hoie in the door frame (see illustration). 6 Place a rag over the glass to help prevent scratching the glass, then drill out the two glass mounting rivets. 7 Remove the glass by pulling it up and out. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

disconnect the electrical connector from the window regulator motor. 4 Remove the equalizer arm retaining bolt (see illustration). 5 Remove the retaining bolts or drill out the rivets that secure the window regulator to the door frame (see illustration). 6 Pull the equalizer arm and regulator assemblies through the service hole in the door frame to remove it. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

or bolts and detach the mirror from the vehicle (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21 Center console - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 19.4 and 19.5 Warning: The regulator arms are under extreme pressure and can cause serious injury if the motor or counter-balance spring is removed without locking the sector gear. This can be done by inserting a bolt and nut through the holes in the backing plate and sector gear to lock them together. Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 1 Remove the door trim panel and the plastic watershield (see Section 15). 2 Remove the window glass assembly (see Section 18). 3 On models with power windows,

Refer to illustrations 20.3 and 20.5 Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Remove the door trim panel and the plastic watershield (see Section 15). 3 Remove the foam insulating pad from the door window frame (see illus¬ tration). 4 Disconnect the electrical connector from the mirror. 5 Remove the three mirror retaining nuts

Refer to illustrations 21.3, 21.4, 21.5 and 21.6 Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). The yellow wires, and connectors routed through the console are for this system. Do not use electrical test equipment on these yellow wires or tamper with them in any way while working around the console. Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Apply the parking brake lever and place the gear selector into the neutral position. 3 Pry out the shift lever knob retaining clip and remove the knob (see illustration).

20.3 Peel out the foam insulating pad from the door window frame

20.5 Outside mirror retaining nut locations (arrows)

21.3 Pry out the retaining clip and remove the shift knob

19 Door window glass regulator removal and installation 20 Outside mirrors - removal and installation

11-14

Chapter 11

Body

21.4 Pry out the gear selector trim bezel

21.5 Remove the screws (arrows) located under the gear selector trim plate

21.6 Open the console glove box and remove the retaining screws (arrows), securing the rear half of the console

4 Pry out the gear selector trim bezel by disengaging the clips on the front edge (see illustration). Then disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the bezel from the console assembly. 5 Remove the retaining screws securing the front half of the console (see illustration). 6 Working in the console glove box, detach the retaining screws securing the rear half of the console (see illustration). 7 Lift the console up and over the shift lever. Disconnect any electrical connections and remove the console from the vehicle. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Caution: On models equipped with a Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

lower the trim panel from the instrument panel. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22

Dashboard trim panels - removal and installation

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the air bag system before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). The yellow wires and connectors routed through the instrument panel are for this system. Do not use electrical test equipment on these yellow wires or tamper with them in any way while working around the instrument panel.

22.2 Grasp the Instrument cluster bezel and carefully pull outward to detach the retaining clips

Instrument cluster bezel Refer to illustration 22.2 1 Tilt the steering wheel down to the lowest position. Note: If the vehicle is equipped with a column shift lever, place the gear selector in the L1 position. 2 Grasp the bezel securely and puli back sharply to detach the clips from the instrument panel (see illustration). 3 Unplug any electrical connectors that interfere with removal. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lower steering column trim cover Refer to illustration 22.5 5 Remove the lower clips securing the sound insulator panel to the lower steering cover, then remove the steering column cover retaining screws (see illus¬ tration). 6 Lift the lower edge of the steering column cover upward and detach the clips or fasteners on the upper edge. 7 Unplug any electrical connectors, then

22.5 Lower steering column cover retaining screw and clip locations (arrows)

Knee bolster Refer to illustration 22.10 9 Remove the lower steering column trim cover as described above. 10 Detach the knee bolster retaining screws and remove it from the vehicle (see illustration). 11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Glove box 12 To remove the glove box, simply remove the screws from the hinge. Open the glove box door, squeeze the plastic sides in and lower the glove box from fhe instrument panel. 13 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

23 Seats - removal and installation

Front seat Refer to illustration 23.2 1 Position the seat all the way forward or all the way to the rear to access the front seat retaining bolts.

22.10 Knee bolster retaining bolt locations (arrows)

Chapter 11

Body

11-15

23.2 Detach the trim covers (if equipped) and remove the bolts (arrows) from the front and rear of the seat

23.5 Using a socket and ratchet, remove the rear seat cushion retaining bolts

23.6 Detach the bolts securing the lower corners of the seat back, then lift upward and out to remove the seat back

2 Detach any bolt trim covers and remove the retaining bolts (see illustration). 3 Tilt the seat upward to access the underside, then disconnect any electrical connectors and lift the seat from the vehicle. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

6 Detach the retaining bolts at the lower edge of the seat back (see illustration), then lift up on the lower edge of the seat back and remove it from the vehicle. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

2 See if the seat belt reminder light comes on when the key is turned to the Run or Start position. A chime should also sound. 3 The seat belts are designed to lock up during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free movement during normal driving. Make sure the retractors return the belt against your chest while driving and rewind the belt fully when the buckle is unlatched. 4 If any of the above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary.

Rear seat Refer to illustrations 23.5 and 23.6 5 Remove the seat cushion retaining bolts (see illustration). Then lift up on the front edge and remove the cushion from the vehicle.

24 Seat belt check 1 Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates and guide loops for obvious damage and signs of wear.

11

i'

11-16 -.'• -^^%-%'V-f

^

Body -

C^iapterll

.' t^‘ ■»■* / • -f < • j> fv,-r ^

4-1ri

' .

?■ ■ •S"» •».'S>4f' ^

Notes

'*. ,'

•■■' .."If

--

!v'

##*•■ /::V’'

'

■ ■>■'■1*

■

'

- .uv-C^sS ; ^,,

,'•■

•:-5^'y',-^i ‘

Ife^^vS,',;:'

t

.

rSll,. ,.;•■■

•■

. •

■'> jf '' >» JH

-1

ViV-. ■.

‘A

I

I-. ,

■

Sr’^sJij V1^-

'';

‘.'r ‘-J.--^'

•r'

■ V ■'■■'

i...-;v-'yis;,

.’. .iv ;.(*■

;

V:-

f''-

« .:.#■ 5A ,

■■■•

m

, ■^..^ r- wn’ •«/;.. ■ '•!; ’;>“-«i1tlVV,’OV(s}:

If-

'.’7;.'•'i^#*,'-.-*.,- .■i’'V'.-'• |.^

i' -.'-

irt ■' '.

*■’ i'^' ft.’l’"'-" ‘

ill:

I

> ^ :^^•^^.v.•.-'■ 'i ■V', .■"’f

'

j\,Kf. :

■■ ". i irj ir \

.-^y ^- '. .,

. ■,. -A,' - I- .:'. ■, \ :•

■ •

i.

-'./ .t.

‘Vl': 1. . 'K. .Vi'Si' ; jB^-v-,T/.- • '

,- >.

>»

.. .•

^).y •*• - ■••j

, .,

^

i. '. •! , ' '••■•'“

'

/-V

.

’;•! -i,-.'

j..,

■Vi.; :/*.

'*■, >’.*>4•?'

. '■

A.

-. v Ti . •!- ■ • 4p4v‘.'{ ;.

V{.'

.. .

/V,

>■>:

.

'

•■-^5'%.''

...

7«iiSMv ■ >yi-

&«;>■,''■

V;

.

^

‘i* •'.

. / >

■

.

‘.'2^

-■

;■

. . :v-

-"■v -' -y, ,i

......

^5|

. iv;

I.

si''

..si“^spj.3S!»■

.:"v^

,.:

'I

•V

.., »-

•>." t;

j '"i V.-'i. H

’4^ iy4''“4.' uld cause personal injury (see Section 26). le yellow wires and connectors routed rough the instrument panel are for this stem. Do not use electrical test equipment on ese yellow wires or tamper with them in any ay while working under the instrument panel. aution: On models equipped with a leftiock audio system, be sure the lockout ature is turned off before performing any ocedure which requires disconnecting the ittery. Detach the cable from the negative ittery terminal and disable the airbag stem (see Section 26). Remove instrument cluster bezel (see aapter 11).

12-13

20.7 Use a small screwdriver to pry off the wiper arm retaining nut cover, then remove the washer hose and the nut (arrow) and pull the arm straight off its splined shaft

3 Remove the screws securing each side of the instrument cluster (see illustration). 4 Tilt the top of the instrument cluster inward towards the center of the passenger compartment, then detach the electrical connector from the back of the cluster. 5 Disengage the instrument cluster lower locating pins from the instrument panel and remove it from the vehicle 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20 Wiper motor - check and replacement

Check Note: Refer to the wiring diagrams for wire colors and locations in the following checks. Keep in mind that power wires are generally larger in diameter and brighter colors, where ground wires are usually smaller in diameter and darker colors. When checking for voltage, probe a grounded 12-volt test light to each terminal at a connector until It lights; this verifies voltage (power) at the terminal. 1 If the wipers work slowly, make sure the battery is in good condition and has a strong charge (see Chapter 1). If the battery is in good condition, remove the wiper motor (see below) and operate the wiper arms by hand. Check tor binding linkage and pivots. Lubricate or repair the linkage or pivots as necessary. Reinstall the wiper motor. If the wipers still operate slowly, check for loose or corroded connections, especiaiiy the ground connection. If all connec¬ tions iook OK, replace the motor. 2 If the wipers fail to operate when activated, check the fuse. If the fuse is OK, connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor and ground, then retest. If the motor works now, repair the ground connection. If the motor still doesn’t work, turn the wiper switch to the HI position and check for voltage at the motor. If there’s voltage at the motor, remove the motor and check it off the vehicle with fused jumper

wires from the battery. If the motor now works, check for binding linkage (see Step 1 above). If the motor still doesn’t work, replace it. If there’s no voltage at the motor, check for voltage at the wiper control module. If there’s voltage at the wiper control module and no voltage at the at the wiper motor, check the switch for conti¬ nuity. If the switch is OK, the wiper control module is probably bad. 3 If the interval (delay) function is inoper¬ ative, check the continuity of all the wiring between the switch and wiper control module. If the wiring is OK, check the resis¬ tance of the delay control knob of the multi¬ function switch (see Section 8). If the delay control knob is within the specified resis¬ tance, replace the wiper control module. 4 If the wipers stop at the position they’re in when the switch is turned off (fail to park), check for voltage at the park feed wire of the wiper motor connector when the wiper switch is OFF but the ignition is ON. if no voltage is present, check for an open circuit between the wiper motor and the fuse panel. 5 If the wipers won’t shut off unless the ignition is OFF, disconnect the wiring from the wiper control switch. If the wipers stop, replace the switch. If the wipers keep running, there’s a defective limit switch in the motor; replace the motor. 6 if the wipers won’t retract below the hoodline, check for mechanicai obstructions in the wiper linkage or on the vehicle’s body which would prevent the wipers from parking. If there are no obstructions, check the wiring between the switch and motor for continuity. If the wiring is OK, replace the wiper motor.

Replacement Refer to illustrations 20.7, 20.8a, 20.8b, 20.8c, 20.10a, 20.10b and 20.12 7 Pry off the cover from the wiper arm retaining nuts, unscrew the nuts, detach the washer hoses and remove both wiper arms (see illustration). 8 Remove the retaining screws, the

12-14

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

20.8a Remove the screws (arrows) securing the outer edges of the cowl cover ...

20.8b ... then remove the screws (arrows) securing the center of the cowl cover

20.8c Lift the cowl cover up slightly and disconnect the washer hose

20.10a Remove the wiper motor linkage retaining bolts (arrows) from the drivers side of the cowl...

washer hose and detach the cowl cover (see illustrations). 9 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the wiper motor. 10 Remove the wiper linkage bracket mounting bolts (see illustrations). 11 Pull the linkage assembly out from the cowl, then turn it over to access the wiper motor retaining screws. 12 Remove the retaining screws and the wiper motor spindle nut (see illustration). Separate the components. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21

2 To test the horn(s), connect battery voltage to the horn terminal with a pair of jumper wires. If the horn doesn’t sound, replace it. 3 If the horn does sound, check for voltage at the terminal when the horn button is depressed. If there’s voltage at the

terminal, check for a bad ground at the horn. 4 If there’s no voltage at the horn, check the relay (see Section 6). Note that most horn relays are either the four-terminal or exter¬ nally grounded three-terminal type. The horn relay is located in the engine compartment

20.10b .. .and at the center of the cowl (arrow)

20.12 Turn the linkage assembly over to access the spindle nut (A) and the wiper motor retaining bolts (B)

Horn - check and replacement

Check Refer to illustration 21.4 Note: Check the fuses before beginning electrical diagnosis. 1 Remove the plastic air deflector surrounding the hood latch assembly and disconnect the electrical connector from the horn.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

21.4 The horn relay (arrow) location is clearly marked on the engine compartment fuse block cover

21.9 Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the bolt(s) (arrows) and detach the horn(s)

fuse block on the drivers side of the vehicle (see illustration). 5 If the relay is OK, check for voltage to the relay power and control circuits. If either of the circuits is not receiving voltage, inspect the wiring between the reiay and the fuse panel. 6 If both relay circuits are receiving voltage, depress the horn button and check the circuit from the relay to the horn button for continuity to ground. If there’s no conti¬ nuity, check the circuit for an open. If there’s no open circuit, replace the horn button. 7 If there’s continuity to ground through the horn button, check for an open or short in the circuit from the relay to the horn.

cruise control). 4 If the brake lights don’t come on or don’t shut off, correct the problem and retest the cruise control. 5 Inspect the cable linkage between the cruise control module and the throttle linkage. The cruise control module is located on the left (drivers) inner fenderwell of the engine compartment (see illustration). 6 Visually inspect the wires connected to the cruise control actuator and check for damage and broken wires. 7 The cruise control system uses a speed sensing device. The speed sensor is located in the transmission. To test the speed sensor see Chapter 6. 8 Test drive the vehicle to determine if the cruise control is now working. If it isn’t, take it to a dealer service department or an automotive electrical specialist for further diagnosis and repair.

Replacement Refer to illustration 21.9 8 To access the horns remove the plastic air deflector surrounding the hood latch assembly. 9 Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the bracket bolts (see illus¬ tration). 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22 Cruise control system description and check Refer to illustration 22.5 1 The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with an electronic servo motor located in the engine compartment, which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the electronic control module, brake switch, control switches, a relay, the vehicle speed sensor and associated wiring. Listed below are some general procedures that may be used to locate common cruise control problems. 2 Locate and check the fuse (see Sec¬ tion 3). 3 Have an assistant operate the brake lights while you check their operation (voltage from the brake light switch deactivates the

23

Power window system description and check

Refer to illustration 23.12 1 The power window system operates electric motors, mounted in the doors, which

22.5 The cruise control module (arrow) is located in the engine compartment on the (driver’s side) inner fenderwell - check for damage to the connectors

12-15

lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors, regulators, glass mechanisms and associated wiring. 2 The power windows can be lowered and raised from the master control switch by the driver or by remote switches located at the individual windows. Each window has a separate motor which is reversible. The position of the control switch determines the polarity and therefore the direction of operation. 3 The circuit is protected by a fuse and a circuit breaker. Each motor is also equipped with an internal circuit breaker, this prevents one stuck window from disabling the whole system. 4 The power window system will only operate when the ignition switch is ON. In addition, many models have a window lockout switch at the master control switch which, when activated, disables the switches at the rear windows and, sometimes, the switch at the passenger’s window also. Always check these items before troubleshooting a window problem. 5 These procedures are general in nature, so if you can’t find the problem using them, take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other properly equipped repair facility. 6 If the power windows won’t operate, always check the fuse and circuit breaker first. 7 If only the rear windows are inoperative, or if the windows only operate from the master control switch, check the rear window lockout switch for continuity in the unlocked position. Replace it if it doesn’t have conti¬ nuity. 8 Check the wiring between the switches and fuse panel for continuity. Repair the wiring, if necessary. 9 If only one window is inoperative from the master control switch, try the other control switch at the window. Note; This doesn’t apply to the drivers door window. 10 If the same window works from one switch, but not the other, check the switch for continuity. 11 If the switch tests OK, check for a short or open in the circuit between the affected switch and the window motor.

12

12-16

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 25

23.12 If no voltage is found at the motor with the switch depressed, check for voltage at the switch

24.6 Check for voltage at the lock solenoid while the switch is operated

12 If one window is inoperative from both switches, remove the trim panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the switch and at the motor while the switch is operated (see illustration). 13 If voltage is reaching the motor, disconnect the glass from the regulator (see Chapter 11). Move the window up and down by hand while checking for binding and damage. Also check for binding and damage to the regulator, if the regulator is not damaged and the window moves up and down smoothly, replace the motor. If there’s binding or damage, lubricate, repair or replace parts, as necessary. Note: The window motor is an integral part of the window regulator assembly. See Chapter 11 for the removal procedures. 14 If voltage isn’t reaching the motor, check the wiring in the circuit for continuity between the switches and motors. You’ll need to consult the wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the circuit is equipped with a relay, check that the relay is grounded properly and receiving voltage. 15 Test the windows after you are done to confirm proper repairs.

by bi-directional solenoids located in the doors. The lock switches have two operating positions: Lock and Unlock. When activated, the switch sends a ground signal to the door lock control unit to lock or unlock the doors. Depending on which way the switch is activated, the control unit reverses polarity to the solenoids, allowing the two sides of the circuit to be used alternately as the feed (positive) and ground side. Some vehicles may have an anti-theft systems incorporated into the power locks. If you are unable to locate the trouble using the following general Steps, consult your a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. 1 Always check the circuit protection first. Some vehicles use a combination of circuit breakers and fuses. 2 Operate the door lock switches in both directions (Lock and Unlock) with the engine off. Listen for the click of the solenoids operating. 3 Test the switches for continuity. Replace the switch if there’s not continuity in both switch positions. 4 Check the wiring between the switches, control unit and solenoids for continuity. Repair the wiring if there’s no continuity. 5 Check for a bad ground at the switches or the control unit. 6 If all but one lock solenoids operate, remove the trim panel from the affected door (see Chapter 11) and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated Cne of the wires should have voltage in the Lock position; the other should have voltage in the Unlock position (see illus¬ tration). 7 If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voitage, replace the solenoid. 8 If the inoperative solenoid isn’t receiving voltage, check for an open or short in the wire between the lock solenoid and the control unit. Note: It’s common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and door (opening and closing the door fatigues and eventually breaks the wires).

24

Power door lock system description and check

Refer to illustration 24.6 The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators, a control unit and associated wiring. Diagnosis can usually be limited to simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. Since this system uses an ^electronic control unit, in-depth diagnosis should be left to a dealership service department. The door lock control unit is located behind the instrument panel, to the right of the fuse box. Power door lock systems are operated

Electric rear view mirrors description and check

1 Electric rear view mirrors use tw motors to move the glass; one for up-and down adjustments and one for left-to-righ adjustments. 2 The control switch has a selectc portion which sends voltage to the left o right side mirror. With the ignition CN, engin' CFF, roil down the windows and operate th‘ mirror control switch through all function (left-right and up-down) for both the left anc right side mirrors. 3 Listen carefully for the sound of thr electric motors running in the mirrors. 4 If the motors can be heard but the mirro glass doesn’t move, there’s probably t problem with the drive mechanism inside the mirror. Remove and disassemble the mirro to locate the problem. 5 If the mirrors don’t operate and nc sound comes from the mirrors, check the fuse (see Section 3). 6 If the fuse is OK, remove the mirro control switch from its mounting withou disconnecting the wires attached to it. Turr the ignition ON and check for voltage at the switch. There should be voltage at one terminal. If there’s no voltage at the switch check for an opening or short in the wiring between the fuse panel and the switch. 7 If there’s voltage at the switch, disconnect it. Check the switch for continuity in all its operating positions. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it. 8 Re-connect the switch. Locate the wire going from the switch to ground. Leaving the switch connected, connect a jumper wire between this wire and ground. If the mirror works normally with this wire in place, repair the faulty ground connection. 9 If the mirror still doesn’t work, remove the cover and check the wires at the mirror for voitage with a test light. Check with ignition ON and the mirror selector switch on the appropriate side. Operate the mirror switch in ail its positions. There should be voltage at one of the switch-to-mirror wires in each switch position (except the neutral position). 10 If there’s not voitage in each switch position, check the wiring between the mirror and control switch for opens and shorts. 11 If there’s voltage, remove the mirror and test it off the vehicle with jumper wires. Replace the mirror if it fails this test (see Chapter 11).

26 Airbag - general information Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Airbag system components are located in the steering wheel, steering column, instrument panel and under the front passenger seat. The airbag(s) could accidentally deploy If any of the system

-

« £ • t ^ v J

>■ r j ' # • f 4 t t t k 4 -i 4 V ^

1 >■ ^ ' \ *

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system .mponents or wiring harnesses are r.turbed, so be extremely careful when rking in these areas and don’t disturb any ,bag system components or wiring. You jid be injured if an airbag accidentally (ploys, or the airbag might not deploy rectly in a collision if any components or ring in the system have been disturbed. The \low wires and connectors routed through ‘ instrument panel and below the ssenger seat are for this system. Do not ■1 electrical test equipment on these yellow es or tamper with them In any way while rking in their vicinity. ' ution: On models equipped with a Theftlock .dio system, be sure the lockout feature is ned off before performing any procedure dch requires disconnecting the battery.

ascription i fer to illustration 26.2 The models covered by this manual are (uipped with a Supplemental Inflatable Istraint (SIR) system, more commonly ‘3wn as an airbag system. The SIR system ; designed to protect the driver and issenger from serious injury in the event of .:ead-on or frontal collision. The SIR system consists of a driver side roag; located in the center of the steering ' eel, a passenger side air bag located in the b of the dashboard above the glove box, an R coil assembly located in the steering

'

'_i

FUEL INJ 4 CTRL FUEL GAUGE CTRL CHANGE OIL SOON IND LOW OIL LEVEL IND CHARGE WARNING IND BANK 2 KS SIG FUEL INJ 5 CTRL FUEL INJ

5 CTRL

MAP SENSOR IN CRUISE

DISABLE OUT

FUEL INJ

1

CTRL

FUEL INJ 2 CTRL

LINEAR EGR POS SENS IN ECT SENSOR IN

TRANS

RANGE SW ‘B’

IN

TRANSAXLE RANGE A IN

TRANSAXLE RANGE E IN

TRANSAXLE RANGE C IN FUEL INJ 3 CTRL

GEN TERMINAL L GEN TERMINAL F

A/C PRESS SENS IN

FUEL LEVEL SENS IN

TRANS RANGE SW ' H02S

1

HI IN

H02S

1

LOW IN

H02S 2 Hi IN H02S 2 LOW IN BANK

1

KS SIG

lAT SENSOR IN

TP SENSOR IN

PC SOL VALVE LO

TCC RELEASE SW IN PC SOL VALVE HI TCC SOL VALVE CONT 1- 2 SS CTRL

2- 3 SS CTRL

TRANS TEMP SENS

PCM

GROUND

PCM

GROUND

IN

I_I POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

Typical 3.8L engine control system (3 of 3)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-33

12 Typical engine warning system

12-34

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

>

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

HOT IN

RUN

HOT AT ALL TIMES

HOT AT ALL TIMES UNDER¬ HOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER #2

DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS (DRL) CONTROL MODULE

Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo headlight system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

HOT AT ALL TIMES

HOT AT ALL TIMES

12-35 HOT AT ALL TIMES

12 Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo exterior lighting system (except headlights)

12-36

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

SELECTOR

SWITCH

Typical 1995 interior illumination system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

REMOTE CONTROL DOOR LOCK RECEIVER

HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START

12-37

HOT AT ALL TIMES

ENTRY

12 Typical 1995 interior courtesy illumination system

12-38

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo interior illumination system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

HOT AT ALL TIMES

12-39 HOT AT ALL TIMES

REMOTE CONTROL DOOR LOCK RECEIVER

12 Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo interior courtesy light system

12-40

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT IN

RUN

HOT IN

Typical 1995 heating, air conditioning and cooling system (1 of 2)

RUN

HOT AT AL TIMES

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

HOT AT ALL TIMES

12-41

HOT AT ALL TIMES

A/C REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Typical 1995 heating, air conditioning and cooling system (2 of 2)

12

12-42

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT IN RUN

HOT AT AL TIMES

Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Carlo heating, air conditioning and cooling system (1 of 2)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL . IIMES_ TfAN 3 / FUSE 25A

HOT AT ALL TIMES nUNDERHOOD I ELECTRICAL .CENTER 2

;

, MAXI ? FUSE 30A

HOT AT ALL TIMES

1

.PCM BAT ' FUSE 20A

12-43

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR i A/C CONT / FUSE ' 10A

1 UNDERHOOD I ELECTRICAL .CENTER 1

i_.

COMPRESSOR CLUTCH

A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH DIODE

—I

DK GRN/WHT

A/C CMPR RELAY

I

ENGINE COOLING FAN MOTOR 1

I

-(

—I —I

FAN CONTROL REUY 1 ENGINE COOLING FAN MOTOR 2

f I

—I

FAN CONTROL RELAY 2

1 BRN 2 WHT/6LK

.

I I

FAN CONTROL RELAY 3

-1 DK GRN/WHT-r-f—-(|REUy CONTROL LT CRN

"Cl REUY ,1”

CONTROL

red7~-(|SENSOR INPUT -(|+5V “(ISENSOR GROUND -(ISENSOR INPUT I_I POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

T T T

T T 1*

SOLID STATE

SOLID STATE

Ih®>J LEFT ELECTRIC ACTUATOR

RIGHT ELECTRIC ACTUATOR

A/C REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR

ENGINE COOUNT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SENSOR

Typical Lumina and 1999 and earlier Monte Cario Monte Cario heating, air conditioning and cooiing system (2 of 2)

12

12-44

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST IT OR 0 START

HOT AT ALL TIMES

r' I

I

HOT AT ALL TIMES

I'.r ]

FUSE 39 OA

I

12-45

V

20A

L_

V

■“I FUSE I BLOCK FUSE 19 10A

I I .J

PNK

(W/ RKE ONLY) -(e-

INTERIOR gRY LIGHTS ◄——— SYSTEM

LEFT FRONT DOOR LOCK SWITCH

X

DK

BLU

RIGHT REAR DOOR LOCK SWITCH

-Cf (W/ RKE ONLY)

,

DK

DK 0LU INTERIOR -^ LIGHTS SYSTEM

BLU

INTERIOR LIGHTS ◄SYSTEM

LEFT REAR DOOR LOCK SWITCH

.

OK BLU

RIGHT FRONT DOOR LOCK SWITCH

xdk blu

< RIGHT FRONT DOOR LOCK SWITCH

DOOR LOCK RELAY

r;--n

UNLOCK ■ RELAY

LOCK REWY

! 8LK

-(L~ r

II

LEFT FRONT DOOR LOCK SWITCH

laUM

ENTRY

IGNITION ALL UNLK LOCK CTRL BATTERY (B+) LFT FRT UNLK LID

LOCK

LID LOCK

IN

W/ KEYLESS ENTRY

GRY

-

\

BLK/WHT

I

TRANS PRESS A TAN/WHT H02S 2 LOW H02S

1

TAN/WHT

TAN

TAN

LOW BLK

EGR SENS

GRY/BLK

GRY/BLK

EGR CONTROL

DK BLU

KNOCK SENS

LT GRN/WHT

LT GRN/WHT

LT BLU/BLK PNK/BLK

PNK/BLK AIR INJ CONTROL

HIGH SPEED FAN

-► A/C

LOW SPEED FAN

VSS

OUTPUT

FUEL INJ

9LK

1

PNK/BLK

FUEL INJ 3

LT GRN/BLK

FUEL INJ 2

OK GRN

SERIAL DATA

BLK/WHT

FUEL INJ 5

_BLK

TP SENS ISS SENS LOW

RED/BLK

RED/BLK

ISS SENS HIGH

YEL

VSS HIGH LOW

I

PPL/WHT

3X REF

HIGH

'

vci

0

MAF SENS 3X REF LOW EBCM FEED CRUISE

,,

PPL

VSS

TR SWITCH

21

DK BLU/WHT

DK BLU/WHT

DISABLE

RED/BLK QRG/BLK OK GRN TAN/BLK

BYPASS IC CONTROL

DK GRN/WHT

DK GRN/WHT

EVAP PURGE A/C PRESS SENS FUEL INJ

YEL/BLK

6

L_J

SPARK PLUGS

POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

IGNITION COIL

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (7X)

J

l\

J

J

Typical 2000 and later 3.4L engine control system (1 of 4)

J

J

J

12

12-54

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system AUTOMATIC r • TRANSAXLE I

1-2 SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE

TCC PULSE WIDTH MODULATION SOLENOID

2-3 SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE

TRANSAXLE INPUT SHAFT SPEED SENSOR

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE TEMPERATURE SENSOR

LO, REV

jxzxc:

a

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID PRESSURE MANUAL VALVE POSITION SWITCH

TCC

D2. D3

PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

02. D4

_—

'

DATA UNK CONNECTOR

BRN/WHT

BRN/WHT

TAN/BLK

YEL/BLK LT BLU/BLK GRY

QRG/BLK

RED/BLK

U

-

12 13 14 15

TAN/WHT

tan/wht

-^

BLK GRY/BLK

LT GRN/WHT

LT GRN/WHT

LT BLU/BLK

LT BLU/BLK

PNK/BLK

PNK/BLK

RED/BLK LT BLU/WHT LT BLU/BLK

21 22 23

10

GRY/BLK

DK BLU

15 16

17 IS 19

DK SLU/WHT RED/BLK

24 25 23 YEL

26

YEL/BLK

27

2a

24 25

QRG/BLK

29

26 27

3Q 3,

DK GRN/WHT

DK GRN/WHT

-EiS-

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

I

I

I

!

I_I CRUISE CONTROL MODULE

I I

KNOCK SENSOR (BANK 1)

I I

I_I ELECTRONIC BRAKE CONTROL MODULE

I MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR

REFRIOERENT PRESSURE SENSOR

Typical 2000 and later 3.4L engine control system (2 of 4)

THROHLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR

1^1

I_I ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (EOT) SENSOR

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system HOT IN ON 0R_START HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR 2

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR t

oxY

r* r I / SEN I I

15A

12-55

HOT AT ALL TIMES

"I ENG

"1

AIR ”1 / DEVICES / PMP I '' rii^r f rusE t IOA

30A j

Tn'gine

r FUEL TANK ) PRESSURE SENSOR

FUEL PUMP/ LEVEL SENSOR

(

ENGINE FUEL I WIRING PUMP I HARNESS RELAY JUNCTION I BLOCK

rOS)}]

I L-.-

WIRING HARNESS JUNCTION BLOCK

J,

“1 I/P ACCESSORY I WIRING JUNCTION

- —BLOCK (RIGHT)

1

2

BRN/WHT

BRN/WHT

TAN/BLK

TAN/BLK

PPL/WHT

3

A

5 YEL

6 7

6

RED/BLK

RED/BLK TAN/WHT

9

11

10 11

GRY/BLK

12 13

12

14

13

15 U

15 16

17 18 19

LT GRN/WHT

LT GRN/WHT

16

LT BLU/BLK

LT BLU/9LK PNK/BLK

RED/BLK

RED/BLK LT BLU/WHT

LT BLU/WHT

LT BLU/BLK

LT BLU/BLK

21 GRY/BLK

22 23

20

24 25

21

TAN/BLK

26

22 26

23 24 25

YEL

YEL

YEL/BLK

YEL/BLK

PPL

29 30 31

26 27

28

OK GRN/WHT

o EVAP CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID

7

o SECONDARY AIR INJECTION REACTION SOLENOID

MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR

ENGINE OIL LEVEL SWITCH

ENGINE OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR SWITCH

“I ENGINE WIRING HARNESS JUNCTION BLOCK

£ 3 SECONDARY AIR INJECTION REACTION RELAY

Typical 2000 and later 3.4L engine control system (3 of 4)

SECONDARY AIR INJECTION REACTION MOTOR

12

12-56

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system HOT IN ON OR START

I

L

_JZT

I

I^BS/ / PCM ▼ FUSE OA

HOT IN START

HOT IN ON OR START

X PCM C (CRANK) ▼ FUSE 10A

^ / CLUSTER T FUSE

ACCESSORY WIRINC . JUNCTION 1OA I block --1 (left)

r

5

I

INSTRUMENT _^^^TER

MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP4

h®

I I

0

I '-vwv-

BRN/WHT EVAP CANISTER VENT SOLENOID

. j

BRN/WHT MIL CONTROL

WHT

EVAP CAN VENT OK GRN/WHT

OK GRN/WHT

t

FUEL PUMP RELAY

PPL

PCM CRANK PWR IGNITION RED ECR VAL CNTRL

LT BLU/WHf"

lAC A HIGH BRN/WHT

2

TAN/BLK

TAN/BLK

3

PPL/WHT

PPL/WHT

5

WHT BLK/WHT RED

REO

6

EBCM FEED

PPL

PPL

4

gry"