Haynes Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-Size FWD Models 1985 thru 1995 Automotive Repair Manual [8595] 1563921677, 9781563921674

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BUICK 0] Bb) (0)5)/ 8 = me EL\e m0)

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1985 thru 1995 5 Front-wheel drive

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Buick,Olds & Pontiac Full-size FWD Models

Automotive

Repair

Manual by Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac Full-size front-wheel drive models (C and H body types) 1985 through 1995 Does not cover diesel engine and related information, supercharger information or rear-wheel drive models

(5212 — 19020) (1 62 7) ay") AUTOMOTIVE PARTS &

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Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

MEMBER

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Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of General Motors Corporation for assistance with technical information, certain il-

lustrations and vehicle photos. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Jon LaCourse and Ken Freund.

©

Haynes North America, Inc.

1990, 1992, 1995

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced

or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392

1677

Library of Congress Catalog Card. Number 95-—78377 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac full-size, front-wheel drive models Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting : Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

7 7 8 10 10 17 18 19 20 21 22

_ Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

29

Chapter 2 PartA Engine

57

2A

81

2B

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

111

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

126

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

140

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

149

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

168

Chapter 8 Driveaxles:

181

Chapter 9 Brakes

190

Chapter 10 219

10

242

11

Chassis electrical system

258

12

Wiring diagrams

278

Index

293

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 11 Body

Chapter 12

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1989 Pontiac Bonneville SSE

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your

vehicle. Itcan do soin several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have itdone by adealer service department orarepair shop; itprovides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop’and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. Anadded benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishmentthat you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustratiofis which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated.

Whenit's necessary to refertoanother Chapter, the reference willbe given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of ‘ the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE ANote provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac full-size, front-wheel drive models The full-size General Motors models covered by this manual are front

engine/front-wheel drive "C” and "H” body vehicles only. Most are fourdoor sedans, although some two-door models are available. All models are powered by a transversely-mounted V6 engine which drives the front wheels through an automatic transaxle and independent driveaxles.

Independent suspension, featuring coil springs and struts or shock absorbers, is used at all four wheels. The rack and pinion steering unit is

mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist standard.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized part of vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numeri-

cal basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard and is visible through the driver’s side of the windshield (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

Vehicle Certification Plate The Vehicle Certification Plate (VC label) is affixed to the rear of the left front door. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month

and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard where it can be seen from outside the vehicle

Vehicle identification numbers

9

Body identification plate The body identification plate is located in the engine compartment on the upper surface of the radiator support. Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle, as well as information on the options with which itis equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint for repair work.

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Engine identification number The engine ID number is located on a pad at the drivebelt (right) end of the engine block, adjacent to the water pump or on the front surface of the block at the transaxle (left) end, adjacent to the starter (see illustration). .

Service parts identification label This label is located inside the trunk (see illustration). It lists the VIN number, wheelbase, paint number, options and other information specific to your vehicle. Always refer to this label when ordering parts.

Transaxle identification number The transaxle identification number is located on the right rear side of the transaxle (see illustration). .

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label The Vehicle Emissions Control Information label is under the hood, often attached to the left shock tower (see Chapter 6 for more information and an illustration of the label).

314

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OPTIONAL LOCATION

SEQUENCE NUMBER VEHICLE PLANT H - FLINT 1 - WENTZVILLE MODEL YEAR L-90 DIVISION 3 - OLDSMOBILE

The engine identification number is in one of two places: at the right end of the block, adjacent to the water pump or at the front side of the block, adjacent to the starter

JULIAN DATE OR DAY OF THE YEAR SHIFT A = FIRST SHIFT

B = SECOND SHIFT C = THIRD SHIFT MODEL YEAR (9 = 1989) (0 = 1990)

> cm “H’ CARLINE The service parts identification label is located on the inside of the trunk lid

The transaxle identification number is on the right rear side of the transaxle

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch componentS, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can

save aconsiderable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are oftenvery good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle

maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have con-

venient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased — regardless of the source — do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair

that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a

lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts

with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, itcan be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use alockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

11

Fastener sizes For anumber of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 — 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inchin diameter, has 13 threads per inch andis 1 inchlong. AnM12—1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt anda metric wrench should not be

Grade

used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class

(grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS; bottom — metric)

Identification

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Standard hex nut strength markings

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Metric hex nut strength markings

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Metric stud length markings

12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When suchis the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric

fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause itto eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, ageneral torque value chartis presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely

Metric thread sizes

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6to9 14 to 28 to 50 to 80 to

Nm 9to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

21 40 71 140

5to8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47 ‘

a aX ees Beis # ry toe Peet oki SEAS ee

6to9 12 to 14 to 22 to 27 to 40 to 40 to 55 to

9to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

18 20 32 38 55 60 80

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Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

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Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

G = Grade marks (bolt length)

Property class (bolt strength)

L Length (in inches) T _ Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches)

Length (in millimeters)

‘

Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Io Diameter

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differentia! cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed:

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on aclean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. y When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan ofthis type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnectany

of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by

a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a iast resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spig- | ot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. lf a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so itis a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools Aselection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise

one.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with

asoft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any

particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth.{f prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece ofcopper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because itis usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, anondrying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

“ye

13

Dial indicator set

14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

. Damper/steering wheel puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

_

15

Cylinder hone

|

| Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer willassemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when itis felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Tap and die set

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands(2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

_ Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Repair and overhaul tool set

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We _ recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open_ end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide. range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set a.

_ Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) _ Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers —6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades

Tire pressure gauge _ Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch)

Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

4

16

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Pliers — vise grip

Pliers — lineman’s Pliers — needle nose Pliers — snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel — 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set)

Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck ca-

pacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this listinclude those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, itis not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend orfriends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from atool rental shop on a temporary _ basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely availableto the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools. Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when notin use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of ajob, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on apanel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. Aclean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working heightis an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc.

Balljoint separator

which soon become necessary,

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge

Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver

Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter

Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always coveritwith an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. : e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). _ g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

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y

ie we SL Adapters designed to make jumper cable connections to side terminal batteries safer and easier are available at auto

parts stores

Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery.. The other end of this cable should be connected to ‘a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block (see illustrations). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing _ Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and the transaxle in Park. Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one is in the vehicle as it’s being raised with the jack. Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare tire (if needed) from the vehicle. If a tire is being replaced, use the lug wrench to remove the wheel cover. Warning: Wheel covers may have sharp edges — be very careful not to cut yourself. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is raised off the ground. Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point. There's a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull the tire off and replace it with the spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don’t attemptto tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove

the jack and tighten the lug nuts in acriss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten the nuts with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

Towing As ageneral rule, these vehicles should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. You may tow the vehicle with the front wheels on the ground for distances up to 500 miles provided speed does not exceed 55 mph. These vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground.

Be sure to release the parking brake. If the vehicle is being towed with the front wheels on the ground, place the tranSaxle in Neutral. Also, the ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It must be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and brakes won't work with the engine off.

a

10 irre

Uy

(254mm) ASS

ey ae,

Poe: INCHES i?

(203mm)

Ce

Jacking points

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaneris used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and

fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where highloads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from —100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or

dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of anew engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition.switch. Molypenetrants|oosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease thatis used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealantis one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easytoremove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealantis much like RTV in that it can be used eitherto seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealantis in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only inthe absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together.

Thread and pipe sealantis used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rustand corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren't removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove conden-

sation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluidis specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. Italso acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of

the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax

and polish. Some

polishes utilize a chemical

or

abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and siliconés have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle, Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it-cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engineor exhaust system until it has cooled

sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust— itis potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to. avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attemptto lift a heavy component alone—get someone to help you.

DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander,

bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate

for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Fire Rememberatall times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body undercertain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Neverrisk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. Itis strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as agarage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Asbestos

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. —contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

~ Conversion factors Length (distance) Inches (in)

25.4 0.305 1.609

xX Xx xX

Feet (ft) Miles

0.0394 3.281 0.621

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*)

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 OK KOK KK 3.785 otalaleve

General information

Refer to illustrations 1.1a, 1.1b and 1.1c Note: On models equipped with the Delco Loc || audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Power is transmitted from the transaxle to the front wheels by two driveaxles, which consist of splined solid axles with constant velocity (CV)

180 192

107

See Chapter 1 joints at each end. There are two types of inner CV joints used. On certain models a double-offset design using ball bearings with an inner and outer race is used to allow angular movement. The other CV joint usedis a tri-pot design, with a spider bearing assembly and tri-pot housing to allow angular movement (see illustrations). To determine which CV joint is used on

your vehicle, look at the housing while it’s still installed on the vehicle and compare it to the accompanying illustrations, noting that the tri-pot housing will have three major indentations in it and a very thin retaining clamp holding the boot in position (see illustration). All outer CV joints are the double-offset type.

182

Chapter 8

Driveaxles 1.1a

Driveaxle and CV joint component layout - (double offset design)

Deflector ring Outer bearing race

Bearing cage

"9

7 8

Boot retaining clamp Outer driveaxle boot

Boot retaining clamp

Inner bearing race

10

Driveaxle

Ball bearings Race retaining ring

11.‘ 12

Inner driveaxle boot Ball bearing retaining ring

13.

Inner race

Bearing cage Outer race Retaining ring

Chapter 8

1.1b

Driveaxles

Driveaxle and CV joint component layout (tri-pot design inner joint)

1 Outer CV joint outer race 2 CV joint cage 3 CV {joint inner race 4 Shaft retaining ring 5 Ball bearings 6 © Splines 7 Boot 8 Bootclamp 9 Driveaxle (left) 10 _—‘Tri-pot joint boot 11 _—‘*‘Tri-pot spider 12 Needle bearings

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Tri-pot joint balls _ Tri-pot housing (left) Driveaxle (right) Spacer Race retaining ring Boot clamp Needle bearing retainer _ ~Needle retainer ring ~~ Joint retaining ring _ Tri-pot housing (right) Damper and shaft assembly Deflector ring __ Tri-pot bushing

183

184

Chapter 8

ee

Driveaxles

—————————————————————————————————_———————————————————————————————

The CV joints are protected by rubber boots, which are retained by clamps so the joints are protected from water and dirt. The boots should be inspected periodically (see Chapter 1). The inner boots have very small breather holes which may leak a small amount of lubricant under some circumstances, such as when the joint is compressed during removal. Damaged CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be

damaged. Boot replacement involves removing the driveaxles (Section 10). It's agood idea to disassemble, clean, inspect and repack the CVjoint whenever replacing a CV joint boot to make sure the joint isn’t contami-

nated with moisture or dirt, which would cause premature failure of the CV joint. The most common symptom of worn or damaged CV joints, besides lubricant leaks, are a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating from a coasting condition or vibration at highway speeds.

2

Driveaxles — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 2.2, 2.5a, 2.5b, 2.6 and 2.8

Removal 1

Remove the wheel cover and loosen the hub nut. Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the front wheel. 2 Remove the driveaxle hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, insert a screwdriver through the caliper and into a rotor cooling vane, then remove the nut (see illustration). 3 Remove the brake caliper and disc and support the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire (see Chapter 9). 4 Remove the control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint stud nut and separate the lower arm from the steering knuckle (see Chapter 10 if necessary).

5 Push the driveaxle out of the hub with a puller, then support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to prevent damageto the inner CV joint (see illustrations).

TRI-POT HOUSING

INDENT

DOUBLE-OFFSET HOUSING

1.1¢

2.5a

Two types of inner CV joint housings — note the indents on the tri-pot housing

A two-jaw puller works well for pushing the stub axle out of the hub

— 2.2.

Apry bar will hold the hub stationary while loosening the hub nut j

2.5b Support the driveaxle with a piece of wire after it’s been freed from the hub — don't let it hang unsupported or the CV joint could be damaged

Chapter 8

2.6

Usea

large pry bar positioned as

shown to “pop” the inner CV joint out of the transaxle — it may be necessary to

185

Driveaxles

2.8 A large punch or screwdriver, positioned in the groove on the CV joint housing, can be used to seat the joint in

tap the pry bar with a hammer if the driveaxle is stuck

3.4. Snap-ring pliers should be used to remove both the inner and outer retaining rings

the transaxle

Carefully pry the inner end of the driveaxle out of the transaxle, using

center of the driveaxle. Mark the tri-pot housing and driveaxle so they can

a large pry bar positioned between the transaxle pened and the CV joint

be reinstalled in the same relative positions, then slide the HOUSE off the spider assembly. 4 Remove the spider assembly from the axle byfirst removing the inner retaining ring and sliding the spider assembly back to expose the front retaining ring. Remove the front retaining ring and slide the joint off the driveaxle (see illustration). 5 Use tape or acloth wrapped around the spider bearing assembly to retain the bearings during removal and installation (see illustration). 6 Remove the spider assembly from the axle. 7 Slide the boot off the axle. 8 On1985 through 1992 models, clean all of the old grease out of the housing and spider assembly. Carefully disassemble each section of the spider assembly, one at a time, and clean the needle bearings with solvent. Inspect the rollers, spider cross, bearings and housing for scoring, pitting and other signs of abnormal wear. Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inner bearing surfaces to hold the needle bearings in place when reassembling the spider assembly.

6

housing (see illustration). 7 Support the CV joints and carefully remove the driveaxle from the vehicle.

Installation 8

Lubricate the differential seal with multi-purpose grease, raise the dri-

veaxle into position while supporting the CV joints and insert the splined

end of the inner CV joint into the differential side gear. Seat the shaft in the side gear by positioning the end-of a screwdriver in the groove in the CV

joint and tapping it into position with a hammer (see illustration). 9 Apply a light coat of multi-purpose grease to the outer CV joint splines, pull out on the strut/steering knuckle assembly and install the stub

axle in the hub. 10 Insertthe control arm balljoint stud into the steering knuckle and tighten the nut. Be sure to use a new cotter pin (refer to Chapter 10).

11 Install the brake disc and caliper (see Chapter 9 if necessary). 12 Installthe hub nut. Lock the disc so it can’t turn, using a screwdriver or punch inserted through the caliper into a disc cooling vane, and tighten the hub nut to the initial specified torque. 13 Grasp the inner CV joint housing (not the driveaxle) and pull out to

TRI-POT HOUSING

make sure the axle has seated securely in the transaxle.

14 Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. 15 Tighten the hub nut to the final specified torque and install the wheel cover.

RETAINING 3

Driveaxle boot replacement and constant velocity (CV) joint overhaul eee oe Note: /fthe CV joints exhibit wear indicating the need for an overhaul (usually due to torn boots), explore all options before beginning the job. Complete rebuilt driveaxles are available on an exchange basis, which

eliminates a lot of time and work. Whatever is decided, check on the cost and availability of parts béfore disassembling the vehicle.

1

Remove the driveaxle (see Section 2).

Place the driveaxle in a vise lined with rags to avoid damage to the 2 shaft.

Spider Bearing

RING

SPIDER ASSEMBLY

Retainer

Si

fs

5.6b ...and remove it (to ensure proper reassembly, be sure to note the relationship of the spring to the front shoe and the parking brake lever)

5.6c

To remove the front shoe hold-down spring, grasp the

spring retainer firmly with a pair of pliers and twist in the retainer is aligned with the flat on the end of pin, then pull the retainer and spring off (don’t lose pin, which is installed through the back side of the

it until the slot the hold-down the hold-down backing plate)

si

5.6e

...and detach the lower spring

€

4

5.6f Remove the adjuster assembly (be sure to note the relationship between the adjuster socket and the parking brake lever)

Chapter9

203

Brakes

—_

5.6g Remove the rear shoe hold-down spring the same way you removed the front one, then pull down the rear shoe and parking brake leverrassembly

ee

a

4

5.61 Place the front shoe assembly on a workbench and note the relationship of the actuator spring, the spring connecting link and the adjuster actuator...

5.6k

é

5.6h To separate the rear shoe from the parking brake lever, remove the C-clip and spring washer, then press out the lever pin _ —unless you're replacing the parking brake cable, it’s not necessary to disconnect the cable and lever

...the spring connecting link...

5.6]

...then remove the actuator spring, ...

5.61 ... and the adjuster actuator - transfer these parts to the new front shoe (see illustration 5.62)

————————————— a a A

204

Chapter9

Brakes

‘1 rs

he

a

»

a

5.6m _ Lubricate the raised contact surfaces of the backing plate with white lithium base grease

5.6n_ Install the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, push the lever pin into place, install the spring washer and pop the C-clip into place with a pair of pliers (make sure the concave side of the spring washer faces toward the parking brake lever)

—

5.60 Clean the adjuster screw with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol, check the threads for smooth rotation over their full

5.6p

neat

Reattach the parking brake cable, if you disconnected it, place the rear brake shoe in position...

length, then lubricate the adjuster threads, the inside surface of the socket and the socket face with white lithium base grease

5.6q ...and install the hold-down spring: install the spring and retainer over the hold-down pin, compress the spring, twist the retainer until its slot is at a right angle to the flat tip of the hold-down pin and release tension on the spring

5.6r Attach the lower return spring to the brake shoes as shown — make sure the spring runs behind the anchor plate, not in front of it (see illustration 5.5a)

:

5.6s

Chapter9

Place the front brake shoe in position as shown...

Brakes

205

5.6t

...and install the hold-down spring

YLUBRICATE WITH THIN

COATING OF 5450032 LUBRICANT (OR EQUIVALENT)

Details of the adjusting screw assembly Adjuster brake shoe

Brake shoe Adjuster socket Spring clip Adjuster nut Adjuster screw Parking brake lever

Adjusting screw assembly

= ANDAAWNH

Note: Refer to this illustration to ensure proper lubrication of the adjusting screw assembly

206

5.6v_

Chapter 9

Install the adjuster assembly — make sure the parking brake lever is seated properly against the adjuster socket

Brakes

5.6w

'

...and the adjuster actuator is properly seated against the adjuster screw (see view CC of illustration 5.6z)

(see illustration 5.5a)...

of the spring (the angled hook end) is installed through the parking brake lever and the rear shoe (see view AA of illustration 5.6z) ...

Both types Refer to illustration 5.7 7

Before reinstalling the drum, check it for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as blue discolored areas. If the hard spots can’t be removed with fine emery cloth or if any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have it turned. Note: The drums should be resurfaced, regardless of the surface appearance, to impart a smooth finish and ensure a perfectly round drum (which will eliminate brake pedal pulsations related to out-of-round drums). At the very least, if you don't have the drums resurfaced, remove the glaze from the surface with medium-grit

emery cloth using a swirling motion. lf the drum won't “clean up” before the

5.6y ...then grasp the forward end (the long straight section) with a pair of pliers and hook it over the crook in the spring connecting link (see illustration 5.6z)

maximum service limitis reached in the machining operation, installanew

one. The maximum wear diameter is castinto each brake drum (see illustration). This shouldn't be confused with the service limit (the dimension that requires the drum to be thrown away). 8 Install the brake drum on the axle flange. 9 Mount the wheel, install the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle. 10 If the vehicle is equipped with anchor plate type brakes, make anumber of forward and reverse stops to adjust the brakes until satisfactory pedal feel is obtained. If it’s equipped with leading/trailing type brakes, apply and release the brake pedal 30 to 35 times using normal pedal force. Pause about one second between pedal applications. After adjustment, make sure that both wheels turn freely.

—

Chapter9

Ge

Brakes

a A

IM, a)ia-)

VIEW BB

207

MIN Mi

NS SN

y

Jt

0-5C4-L

5.62 Details of the leading/trailing rear brake assembly (with special views) Actuator spring Upper return spring Spring connecting link Adjuster actuator Adjuster shoe Shoe Spring clip Adjuster nut = DOBNAnTAWNH Adjuster screw 10 Parking brake lever 11. Backing plate 12

(5)

VIEW A-A

+ Lever stop VIEW C-C

Note: The adjuster shoe faces the front of the vehicle on the left brake assembly (shown here) and the rear of the vehicle on the right brake assembly

5.7

The drum has a maximum permissible diameter cast into it (arrow) which is a wear dimension, not a refinish dimension

208

Chapter9

6.4

Brakes

6.5

A flare nut wrench should be used to disconnect the

brake line (arrow)

To remove the wheel cylinder, remove these two bolts (arrows) (strut removed for clarity)

ayy

6

6.7

Wheel cylinder components — exploded view

1 2 3.

Bleeder valve Boot Piston

4 5. 6

Seal Spring assembly Wheel cylinder body

Rear wheel cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustrations 6.4, 6.5, 6.7 and 6.13 Note: /fan overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage or sticking brakes) explore all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylinders are available, which makes this job quite easy. If you do rebuild the

wheel cylinder, make sure rebuild kits are available before proceeding. Removal 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. 2 Remove the brake shoe assembly (Section 5).

3 Carefully clean the area around the wheel cylinder on both sides of the backing plate. 4

Unscrew the brake line fitting (see illustration), but don’t pull the line

away from the wheel cylinder. 5 Remove the wheel cylinder retaining bolts (see illustration). 6 Remove the wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate and place it onaclean workbench. Immediately plug the brake line to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

6.13

A wood block (arrow) should be used to hold the wheel cylinder in position

Overhaul 7 Removethe bleeder valve, seals, pistons, boots and spring assembly from the wheel cylinder body (see illustration). 8 Clean the wheel cylinder with brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. 9 Use compressed air to dry the wheel cylinder and blow out the pas-

sages. 10 Check the bore for corrosion and score marks. Crocus cloth may be used to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects can’t be removed easily, or if the bore is scored. 11 Lubricate the new seals with brake fluid. 12

Assemble the brake cylinder components, making sure the boots are

properly seated.

Installation 13

Place the wheel cylinder in position (see illustration).

14 15 16 17

Connect the brake lines loosely. Install the wheel cylinder bolts and tighten them securely. Tighten the brake line fittings. Install the brake shoes (see Section 5).

18

Bleed the brakes (see Section 9).

9892

Chapter9

7.2

Unplug the fluid level sensor connector (arrow) and unscrew the brake line fittings (arrows)

7

Master cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.6, 7.9, 7.11, 7.12, 7.16, 7.18, 7.19a, 7.19b,

7.19c, 7.19d, 7.19e, 7.19f and 7.20 Note: Before deciding to overhaul the master cylinder, check on the availability and cost of a new or factory-rebuilt unit and the availability of a rebuild kit.

Removal 1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Unplug the fluid level sensor switch connector (see illustration). 3 Place rags under the line fittings and prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they're disconnected. Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover all painted parts and be careful not to spill fluid during this procedure. 4 Loosen the fittings at the ends of the brake lines where they enter the master cylinder. To prevent rounding off the flats on the fittings, use a flarenut wrench, which wraps around the hex.

5 Pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent contamination.

6 Remove the two mounting nuts (see illustration) and detach the master cylinder from the vehicle. 7

Remove the reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm, then discard

any remaining fluid in the reservoir. 8 Mountthe master cylinder in a vise. Be sure to line the vise jaws with blocks of wood to prevent damage to the cylinder body. 9 Pull straight up on the reservoir assembly and separate it from the master cylinder body (see illustration). Remove and discard the two O-

rings. 10 Remove the proportioner valves and the O-rings. Set each propor_ tioner valve assembly aside. 11 Removethe primary piston lock ring by depressing the piston and pry-

|/el

ing the ring out with a screwdriver (see illustration).

12 Remove the primary piston assembly from the bore (see illustration). 13 Removethe secondary piston assembly from the bore. Itmay be necessary to remove the master cylinder from the vise and invert it, carefully

tapping it against a block of wood to expel the piston.

Overhaul 14

Cleanthe master cylinder body, the primary and secondary piston as-

semblies, the proportioner valve assemblies and the reservoir in denaa

Brakes

7.6

209

Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (arrows)

tured alcohol and dry them off with unlubricated compressed air or aclean (lint-free) shop rag. Warning: DO NOT, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. 15 Inspect the master cylinder piston bore for corrosion and score

marks. If any corrosion or damage in the bore is evident, replace the master cylinder body — don’t use abrasives to try to clean it up. 16 Removethe old seals from the secondary piston assembly and install

the new seals with the cup lips facing out (see illustration). 17 Attach the spring retainer to the secondary piston assembly. 18 Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and install the spring and secondary piston assembly (see illustration). 19 Disassemble the primary piston assembly, noting the locations of the parts, then lubricate the new seals with clean brake fluid and install them

on the piston (see illustrations). 20 Install the primary piston assembly in the cylinder bore (see illustration), depress it and install the lock ring. 21 Inspect the proportioner valves for corrosion and score marks. Replace them if necessary. 22 Lubricate the new O-rings and proportioner valve seals with the silicone grease supplied with the rebuild kit. Also lubricate the stem of the proportioner valve pistons. 23 Install the new seals on the proportioner valve pistons with the seal lips facing toward the cap assembly.

24

Install the proportioner valve pistons and seals in the master cylinder

body. 25 Install the springs in the master cylinder body. 26 _ Install the new O-rings in their respective grooves in the proportioner valve cap assemblies. 27 Install the proportioner valve caps in the master cylinder and tighten them to the specified torque. 28 Inspect the reservoir for cracks and distortion. If any damage is evi dent, replace it.

29

Lubricate the new reservoir O-rings with clean brake fluid and press

them into their respective grooves in the master cylinder body. Make sure

they're properly seated. 30 Lubricate the reservoir fittings with clean brake fluid and install the reservoir on the master cylinder body by pressing it-straight down 31 Inspect the reservoir diaphragm and cover for cracks and deformation. Replace any damaged parts with newones and attach the diaphragm to the cover. Note: Whenever the master cylinder is removed, the com

plete hydraulic system must be bled. The time required to bleed the sys temcan be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and bench bled (refer to Steps 32 through 35) before it's installed on the vehicle

210

Chapter9

Brakes

7.9

Exploded view of the master cylinder components

Fluid level sensor

Proportioner valve O-ring Proportioner valve O-ring Reservoir cover

Diaphragm Reservoir = OCDANDAAWNH Grommet

QUICK TAKE-UP VALVE (NOT SERVICEABLE)

7.11

Press down on the piston and remove the primary piston lock ring

Lock ring Primary piston assembly Secondary seal Spring retainer Primary seal Secondary piston Spring Cylinder body

Chapter9

Brakes

211

The secondary piston seals must be installed with the lips

facing out as shown

7.19a

The primary piston seal must be installed with the lip facing away from the piston

7.19b

Install the seal guard over the seal

Ce

tiie:

_—_——

7.19¢

Place the primary piston spring in position

7.19d

Insert the spring retainer into the spring

212

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Brakes

ety

7.19e

7.20

Insert the spring retaining bolt through the retainer and spring and thread it into the piston

8.2 Using a back-up wrench on the flexible hose side of the fitting (A), loosen the tube nut (B) with a flare nut wrench and remove the U-clip (C) from the hose fitting

Insert the primary piston assembly into the body

32 Insertthreaded plugs of the correct size into the brake line outlet holes and fill the reservoirs with brake fluid. The master cylinder should be supported so brake fluid won't spill during the bench bleeding procedure. 33 Loosen one plug ata time and push the piston assembly into the bore to force air from the master cylinder. To prevent air from being drawn back in, the appropriate plug must be replaced before allowing the piston to return to its original position. 34 Stroke the piston three or four times for each outlet to ensure that all air has been expelled.

35 Since high pressure isn't involved in the bench bleeding procedure, there is an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly. Before pushing in on the piston as-

sembly, remove one of the plugs completely. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the hole to keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore, then repeat the procedure. When you push down on'the pis-

Installation 37

Carefully install the master cylinder by reversing the removal steps,

then bleed the brakes at each wheel (see Section 9).

8

Brake hoses and lines — inspection and replacement

Refer to illustrations 8.2 and 8.11 1

About every six months, raise the vehicle and support it securely on

jackstands, then check the flexible hoses that connect the steel brake lines to the front and rear brake assemblies: Look for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. The hoses are important and vulnerable parts of the brake system and the inspection should be thorough. A light and mirror will be helpful to see into restricted areas. If a hose exhibits any of the above conditions, replace it with a new one.

ton it'll force your finger off the hole, allowing the air inside to be expelled.

Front brake hose

When only brake fluid is being ejected from the hole, replace the plug and

2

Using a back-up wrench, disconnect the brake line from the hose fit-

go on to the other port.

ting, being careful not to bend the frame bracket or brake line (seeillustra-

36 Refill the master cylinder reservoirs and install the diaphragm and cover assembly. Note: The reservoirs should only be filled to the top of the reservoir divider to prevent overflowing when the cover is installed.

tion).

3 Use pliers to remove the U-clip from the female fitting at the bracket, then remove the hose from the bracket.

LL

;

-_—

Chapter9

8.11

To loosen the rear brake hose/line fitting, simply loosen the nut and pull the clip off the bracket

4 Atthe caliper end of the hose, remove the bolt from the fitting block, then remove the hose and the copper gaskets on either side of the fitting block. 5 When installing the hose, always use new copper gaskets on either sideof the fitting block and lubricate all bolt threads with clean brake fluid before installation. 6 With the fitting flange engaged with the caliper locating ledge, attach the hose to the caliper. 7 Withouttwisting the hose, install the female fitting in the hose bracket. It'll fit the bracket in only one position. 8 Install the U-clip retaining the female fitting to the frame bracket. 9 Using a back-up wrench, attach the brake line to the hose fitting. 10 When the brake hose installation is complete, there shouldn't be any kinks in the hose. Make sure the hose doesn’t contact any part of the suspension. Check it by turning the wheels to the extreme left and right positions. If the hose makes contact, remove the hose and correct the installation as necessary.

Rear brake hose 11. Using a back-up wrench, if necessary, disconnect the hose at both ends, being careful not to bend the bracket or steel lines (see illustra- tion). 12 Remove the two U-clips with pliers and separate the female fittings from the brackets. 13 Unbolt the hose retaining clip and remove the hose. 14 Without twisting the hose, install the female ends in the frame brackets. It'll fit the bracket in only one position. 15 Install the U-clips retaining the female end to the bracket. 16

Using a back-up wrench, attach the steel line fittings to the female fit-

tings. Again, be careful not to bend the bracket or steel line. 17 Makesure the hose installation didn't loosen the frame bracket. Tighten the bracket if necessary. 18 Fill the master cylinder reservoir and bleed the system (refer to Section 9).

Metal brake lines 19 When replacing brake lines, be sure to buy the correct replacement parts. Don’t use copper or any other tubing for brake lines. 20 Prefabricated brake lines, with the ends already flared and fittings in-_ stalled, are available at auto parts stores and dealer service departments. The lines are also bent to the proper shapes if necessary. 21

Brakes

If prefabricated lines aren't available, obtain the recommended steel

tubing and fittings to match the line to be replaced. Determine the correct length by measuring the old brake line (a piece of string can usually be used for this) and cut the new tubing to length, allowing about 1/2-inch extra for flaring the ends.

213

9.8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleeder valve at the caliper (or wheel cylinder) and then submerged in brake fluid — air will be seen as bubbles in the container or in the tube (all air must be expelled before continuing to the next wheel) 22 Installthe fittings on the cut tubing and flare the ends of the line with an ISO flaring tool. 23 Ifnecessary, carefully bend the line to the proper shape. A tube bender is recommended for this. Caution: Don’t crimp or damage the line. 24 Wheninstalling the new line, make sure it's securely supported in the brackets with plenty of clearance between moving or hot components. 25 Afterinstallation, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid as necessary. Bleed the brake system as outlined in the next Section and test the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in traffic. 9

Brake system bleeding

Refer to illustration 9.8 Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. Ifyou get fluid in your eyes, rinse them immediately with water and seek medical attention. Note: Bleeding the brakes is necessary to remove air that manages to find its way into the system when its been opened during removal and installa-

tion of a hose, line, caliper or master cylinder. 1 It'llprobably be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. 2 ___|Ifabrake line was disconnected at only one wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled.

3 Ifabrake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled. 4 Remove any residual vacuum from the power brake booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. 5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding procedure and add fluid as necessary to prevent the level from falling low enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylinder.

6 Havean assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, an empty, clear plastic container, a length of 3/16-inch plastic, rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the bleeder valve. 7 Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder valve slightly, then tighten it to a point where it’s snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. 8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container (see illustration).

214

Chapter9

Brakes

mcs

8 :

10.5 With a pair of locking pliers clamped to the end of the threaded rod to hold it still, turn the adjusting nut until the right rear wheel can just barely be turned backwards but not forward

9 Have your assistant pump the brakes slowly a few times to get pressure in the system, then hold the pedal down firmly. 10 While the pedal is held down, open the bleeder valve just enough to allow fluid to flow out of the valve. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve and have your assistant release the pedal. 11 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more airis seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder valve and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently. 12 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components.

13 14

Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the end of the operation. Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel firm when

depressed. If necessary, repeat the entire procedure. Warning: Don't op-

erate the vehicle ifyou're in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake system.

10

Parking brake — adjustment

Vehicles with anchor plate (duo-servo) ae

rear brakes Refer to illustration 10.5

1

Adjust the brakes (see Step 10 in Section 5).

2 3 4

Apply the parking brake lever exactly three ratchet clicks. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Before adjusting the parking brake, make sure the equalizer nut

groove is lubricated with multi-purpose grease. 5 Tighten the adjusting nut (see illustration) until the right rear wheel can barely be turned backwards with two hands, but locks when turned forward. 6 Release the parking brake lever and check to make sure the rear wheels turn freely in both directions. 7 ~ Lower the vehicle.

Vehicles with leading/trailing type rear brakes

——#|_

10.14 1

Brake shoe

3

Drill bit

2 _ Parking brake lever 10 Check the parking brake pedal assembly for full release by turning the ignition to On and noting whether the Brake warning light is off. If it’s on even though the brake appears to be released, operate the pedal release lever and pull down on the front parking brake cable to remove slack from the assembly. Check both rear wheels to make sure they still turn freely. 11 Apply the parking brake to four clicks. 12 Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. 13 Remove the access hole plug. 14 Adjust the parking brake cable until you can insert a 1/8-inch drill bit— but nota 1/4-inch bit—through the access hole into the space between the shoe web and the parking brake (see illustration). Note: The drill bitmust be perpendicular (at a right angle) to the backing plate. 15 Release the parking brake and verify that both wheels rotate freely. 16 Replace the access hole plug. 17 Lower the vehicle.

11.

Parking brake cables — removal and installation

1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 ‘Ifyou're going to remove or replace a rear cable, loosen the wheel lug nuts. 3

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands.

Front cable Refer to illustrations 11.4, 11.5, 11.6 and 11.7

4

Locate the equalizer assembly along the left side of the underbody

(see illustration).

Refer to illustration 10.14

5

8 9

front cable.

Adjust the brakes (see Step 10 in Section 5). Apply and release the parking brake six times to ten ratchet clicks.

Parking brake adjustment details (leading/trailing type rear brakes)

6

Loosen the equalizer assembly (see illustration) and detach the Remove the nut from the front cable (see illustration).

Chapter9

11.4 1 2 3

Right rear cable Underbody Guide

Brakes

215

Details of the parking brake cable assembly .

4 5 6

Bolt Left rear cable Front cable

11.5 To disconnect the front or intermediate cable from the equalizer assembly, simply loosen the threaded adjuster until the cables are slack

11.6

7 8 9

Intermediate cable Equalizer assembly Nut

Before the front cable will slide through the floor, you'll have to unscrew this nut from the underbody

216

Chapter 9

ae 11.7 1 2 3 4

Brakes

Wane

—

Details of the parking brake cable lever assembly Lever assembly Nut Bolt Handle

5 6 Ze 8

Front cable assembly Dashboard NUE Stud

11.10 To detach the intermediate cable from this mounting bracket, pinch the tabs on the cable housing with a pair of pliers

Pree

11.11a

7

To detach the intermediate cable from the underbody, detach this guide...

Working inside the vehicle, detach the cable housing and cable from

the parking brake lever assembly (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. 8

11.11b

...and detach this cable clip

Left rear cable

bly (see illustration 11.5).

Refer to illustrations 11.18 and 11.19 : 14 Back off the equalizer nut until cable tension is eliminated (see illustration 11.5). 15 Remove the left rear wheel. 16 Remove the left brake drum (see Saction 5). 17 Remove the left rear brake shoe and the parking brake lever as an

10

assembly and detach the cable from the lever (see Section 5).

Intermediate cable Referto illustrations 11.10, 11.11a, 11.11b, 11.12a and 11.12b

9 Disconnectthe intermediate cable from the forward equalizer assem-

Detach the intermediate cable housing from the bracket (see illustra-

tion). : 11 Detach the intermediate cable guide and clip from the underbody (see illustrations). 12 Disconnect the intermediate and right rear cables (see illustration), then disconnect the intermediate cable from the left rear cable (see illustration). 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18 Detach the cable fitting from the backing plate (see illustration). 19 Detach the cable bracket (see illustration). 20 Disconnect the intermediate and right rear cables, then disconnect the left rear cable from the intermediate cable (see illustrations 11.12a and 11.12b). f 21 Installation is the reverse of removal.

_— —

Chapter9

217

Brakes

&

. . then disconnect the intermediate cable from the left rear cable

Bat og my

411.18 To detach the cable from the rear drum brake assembly, pinch the tabs on the housing with a pair of pliers and slide it through the hole in the brake backing plate

11.19

To remove the left rear cable from the underbody, detach this cable clip

Right rear cable Refer to illustration 11.27 22 Back off the equalizer nut until cable tension is eliminated (see illustration 11.5).

23 24 25

Remove the right rear wheel. Remove the right brake drum (see Section 5). Remove the right front brake shoe and the parking brake lever as an

assembly and detach the cable from the lever (see Section 5).

26 Detach the cable fitting from the backing plate (see illustration 11.18). 27

Detach the rightrear cable housing from the underbody (see illustra-

tion). 28 Disconnect the intermediate and right rear cables, then disconnect the left rear cable from the intermediate cable (see illustrations 11.12a and 11.12b). 29 Installation is the reverse of removal.

All cables 30

Be sure to adjust the parking brake cable after installation (see Sec-

tion 10).

11.27 To remove the right rear cable from the underbody, pinch the tabs on this housing (not visible in this photo, they're on the other side of the housing bracket) with a pair of pliers and slide

the housing and cable out of the bracket

218

Chapter9

12.6 Remove the retaining clip and slide the power brake pushrod (A) off the brake pedal pin, then remove the booster-to-firewall nuts (B)

12

Power brake booster — inspection, removal and installation

Refer to illustration 12.6 Note: On 1994 and later models, the power brake booster cannot be disassembled for service. If defective, it must be replaced. 1. The power brake booster unit requires no special maintenance apart from periodic inspection of the vacuum hose and the case. Early models have an in-line filter which should be inspected periodically and replaced if clogged or damaged. 2 Dismantling of the power unit requires special tools and is not ordinarily done by the home mechanic. If a problem develops, install a new or factory rebuilt unit. 3 Remove the nuts attaching the master cylinder to the booster (see Section 7) and carefully pull the master cylinder forward until it clears the mounting studs. Be careful to avoid bending or kinking the brake lines. 4 Disconnect the vacuum hose where it attaches to the power brake

booster. 5 Fromthe passenger compartment, disconnect the power brake pushrod from the top of the brake pedal. 6 Also:from this location, remove the nuts attaching the booster to the firewall (see illustration). 7 Carefully lift the booster unit away from the firewall and out of the engine compartment. 8 To install the booster, place it in position and tighten the mounting nuts. Reconnect the brake pedal. 9 Install the master cylinder and vacuum hose.

10 Carefully test the operation of the brakes before driving the vehicle in traffic.

Brakes

13.3.

The brake light switch (arrow) is located to the right of the steering column at the end of the mounting bracket

3 Locate the switch at the top of the brake pedal (see illustration). Ifthe vehicle is equipped with cruise control, there will be another switch very similar in appearance. The brake light switch is the one towards the end of the bracket. 4 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 5 Detach the wiring connectors at the brake light switch.

6 Depress the brake pedal and pull the switch out of the clip. The switch appears to be threaded, but it’s designed to be pushed into and out of the clip, not turned.

Installation and adjustment 7 With the brake pedal depressed, push the new switch into the clip. Note that audible clicks will be heard as this is done.

8 Pullthe brake pedal all the way to the rear, against the pedal stop until the clicking sounds can no longer be heard. This action will automatically move the switch the proper amount and no further adjustment will be re-

quired. Caution: Don’t apply excessive force during this adjustment procedure, as power booster damage may

result.

9 Connect the wiring at the switch and the battery. Make sure the brake lights are functioning properly.

14

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) and Traction Control System (TCS) — general information

This system is available as an option. It is designed to reduce lost traction during heavy braking or on slippery surfaces. The system is similar to the non-ABS system except for the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) and related wiring, speed sensors and the hydraulic pump which replaces the master cylinder and power brake booster.

Anti-lock braking occurs only when a wheel is about to lock up (lose traction). Input signals from the wheel speed sensors to the computer are

13

Brake light switch — removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustration

13.3

Removal 1. The brake light switch is located on a bracket at the top of the brake pedal. The switch activates the brake lights at the rear of the vehicle when the pedal is depressed. 2 Remove the under dash cover and disconnect the wiring to the courtesy light in the panel.

used to determine when a wheel is about to lose traction during braking. Hydraulic pressure will be reduced for the wheel about to lose traction. Some models are also equipped with a Traction Control System (TCS). This system uses the ABS speed sensors to monitor the speed of the drive wheels. If the computer senses one of the drive wheels spinning significantly faster than the other, the computer, through the ABS system, will apply brake pressure to the more rapidly spinning wheel. This allow torque to be transferred to the wheel with the most traction. Due to the special tools required and the extremely involved diagnostic procedures, all diagnosis and service to either of these systems must be performed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems Contents Balljoint— check and replacement MMPREIEEIMMIETIGATION.

................0.0 0000

woscict i's 035 125%

Sees 3 6 Soecee se ees

Control arm — removal and installation .................005. Front hub and wheel bearing assembly — removal po SCLLOU Aaa ee ae en aa ‘oer Ores tate Front stabilizer bar and bushings — removal and installation ..... Front strut and spring assembly — removal, PeraererMeICH ISLA ATION © 92s wines oe bse ce siecle ow ee wees SaMERNEAIMENEINERIAUION LO. 922 ay shes Se cots cs ore se Be Rts aS cde ee et Power steering fluid level check .................. See Chapter Power steering pump — removal and installation

Power steering system — bleeding

..............

..................-20 eee

Rear control arm — removal and installation

3

Rear stabilizer bar — removal and installation

See Chapter 1

.................

Rear hub and wheel bearing assembly — removal os ENO) t 205 ye RR aire ieee Rear springs and insulators — removal and installation .........

_ Rear strut —removal and installation

4

................

9

.....................-.

10

Rear suspension adjustment link — removal and installation ..... 13 Steering gear boots— replacement ............0-..00e sears 18 Steering gear — removal and installation .................... t7 Steering knuckle and hub — removal and installation ........... 8 Steering system — general information ....................-. 15 Steering wheel — removal and installation ................... 21 Sthitcanridge:—replacementn:. as, sere iesciets ately os oan eae ee 6 Suspension and steering check .................. See Chapter 1

7 2 5 1 1 19

Tie-rod ends — removal and installation

20

Tireand bre PreSSUIEICMOCKS™

.....................

14

TIEROLATON a etietee ener Mace eines res Vac

12 11

Wheelstiids= replacement. gure cen.\t = tse uth oe secanee Wheel alignment — general information ...................-. Wheels and tires — general information ...................0.

16

m.\.:2).ercsurae oss arte ea: See Chapter 1 ee

nis nA e See Chapter 1

22 24 “23

Specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Torque specifications Front suspension SPMTTOMITIITICIIURS sna wieisls siclajile gies cs cc's se ps owl e es Balljoint-to-steering knuckle nut ............0 0.0 ecece eee eee DUMEMEMIEICKEL DOI atidin. 2 eh vn Kb ek acest ee cence ss Control arm 2) ERR CES

Be i

Mgt Sh Sa ee MI Sere iets sees ee poe

METRICS

cg eecys arg visits vale bu ons 86 we ee oie

OE

Se Pea

88 in-lbs (plus an additional

2/3-turn)

en tae ge

a) Se IE Se a ETM APEISIMUAC) Vee WE gig hoes se ps te eee eee eet ae Stabilizer bar mounting bracket bolts ............-2. 00 eee aee Steering knuckle-to-strut assembly bolts

SE

50

a

Strut assembly upper mounting nuts .........-..-2 sere eee AER. Sy anes bn ce cee cd de oes een Rear suspension Adjustment link-to-knuckle nut .............:. eee reece eee Adjustment link-to-control arm nut ..........-.6 eee eee eee EDO NTSC oo ee RSID oF o)L 3) SAS Ge er fies co sovlnc siping bv tee slew ene vies wae OADM EET

10

220

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Rear suspension (continued) Hubrand bearing assembly bolis.. & open sale ates us seine Stabilizer bar bushing assembly nut ............6200eeee eee Stabilizer bar bushing pINCHDOME sues, odie > sirh4,s oles aY- eieneomeae SiapiliZer Day link NUE So's Sein cerak a cle eretere steele dyna a eniGetn ieee Stabilizer bar mounting bracket bolt .............----0 eee eee SHUETOLKNUCKIO NURS jee cs icases oiratanslbote. wih esceretean 6 terete om ete Strut tower mounting NUS Aste ncn cisley aoe: te aie viMNe ake ona ener eer

52 37 37 13 13 144 18

Steering Stesring gear shaft pinch bolf..7. 2¢.12.. 2 eas deat ees ke one Cittertie—rod jambs Hao techs eletae sLeteendce ein ee enna SSIGOTING WHEN MUL 2 Tsu grene trast Geeta eon air te pian te re ene Tie:rad end'castellated Nut... oy ssteek Oe over ahh orate, he nate eee Steering gear. mounting bolis 3. aecse arte idalyce ortaleins sere

35 30 30 35 68

Wheel lug nite ...20.0. hots 21 aie dene

See Chapter 1

1

aaa

ae

General information

Refer to illustrations 1.1, 1.2a and 1.2b Warning: Whenever any of the suspension orsteering fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be inspected and, if necessary, replaced with newones of the same part number or oforiginal equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension or steering components. Instead, replace any bent or damaged part witha

new one. Note: On models equipped with the Delco Loc || audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

1.1. 1

The front suspension is a combination strut and spring design. The steering knuckles are located by lower control arms which are mounted to longitudinally positioned, removable frame members. The lower end of the steering knuckle pivots on a balljoint riveted to the control arm. The balljointis fastened to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut. The control arms are connected by a stabilizer bar, which reduces body lean during cornering (see illustration). The rear suspension is fully independent with each suspension knuckle supported by a lower control arm, coil spring and strut. A stabilizer bar minimizes body roll. Each control arm is equipped with a suspension

adjustment link to provide for toe adjustment and to minimize alignment variation with suspension movement. The rear control arm is attached to the suspension knuckle through a balljoint to reduce friction.

Front suspension components

Control arm

2 ~~ Stabilizer bar

3 4

Outer tie—rod Balljoint

Chapter 10

1.2a

1

Stabilizer bar

Suspension and steering systems

221

Rear suspension components

2

Control arm

3

1.2b

Suspension adjustment links

Details of the rear suspension assembly

1 = Strut 2 Stabilizer bar 3 Coil spring 4 Suspension adjustment link § Control arm

; 10

222

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

The power rack-and-pinion steering system is located behind the engine/transaxle assembly on the firewall and actuates the tie—rods which transmit steering inputs to the steering knuckles. The steering column is connected to the steering gear through an insulated coupler. The steering column is designed to collapse in the event of an accident. Note: These vehicles have a combination of standard and metric fasteners on the various suspension and steering components, so it would be a good idea to have both types of tools available when beginning work.

bushings, spacers and washers are arranged (see illustration). _ 3 Remove the stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts (see illustration). 4 Detach the tie—rods from the steering knuckles (see Section 16). 5 Detach the exhaust pipe from the vehicle (see Chapter 4). 6 Turn the right strut to the right. 7 Slide the bar over the right steering knuckle, then pull down until the bar clears the frame. 8 __Inspectthe bushings for wear and damage and replace them ifneces-

sary.

2

‘Front stabilizer bar and bushings — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 2.2, 2.3, 2.10 and 2.11

Removal 1 Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the front wheels.

2

Remove the stabilizer bar-to-control arm bolts. Note how the link

a

Installation 9 Guide the bar through the wheel well, over the suspension supports and into position. ; 10 Loosely install the bushings and clamps (see illustration). 11 Center the bar in the vehicle and install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm bolts, spacers, bushings and washers (see illustration). Tighten all of the fasteners to the torque figures listed in this Chapter’s Specifications at this time.

;

12 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque specified in Chapter 1. ‘

hy

a aeare 2.2

The stabilizer bar link has washers, rubber bushings and

2.3

Remove the two bolts from each stabilizer bar bushing

spacers to connect the stabilizer bar to the control arm

2.10 1 2

Stabilizer bar clamp and bushing assembly

Stabilizer bar Clamp

3 4

Bushing Bolt

5 6

Welded nuts Frame

2.11 1 2

Stabilizer bar link bolt and bushing assembly

Stabilizer bar Control arm

3

Bushings

4

Washers

5 6

Link bolt Nut =

Chapter 10

3.3a

Suspension and steering systems

Check for movement between the balljoint and steering knuckle (arrow) when prying up ’

223

3.3b With the pry bar positioned between the steering knuckle boss and the balljoint, pry down and check for play in the balljoint — if there’s any play, replace the balljoint

3 Place alarge pry bar under the balljoint and attempt to push the balljoint up. Next, position the pry bar between the steering knuckle and control arm and pry down (see illustrations). If any movement is seen orfelt

during either of these checks, a worn out balljoint is indicated. 4 Have an assistant grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of the tire in-and-out. Touch the balljoint stud castellated nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn out balljoint stud or a widened hole in the steering knuckle boss. If the latter problem exists, the steering knuckle should be replaced as well as the balljoint. 5 Separate the control arm from the steering knuckle (Section 4). Using your fingers (don’t use pliers), try to twist the stud in the socket. If the stud turns, replace the balljoint.

Replacement 6 Loosenthe wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels

to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 7 Separate the control arm from the steering knuckle (Section 4). Temporarily insert the balljoint stud back into the steering knuckle (loosely). This will ease balljoint removal after Step 9 has been performed, as well as

hold the assembly stationary while drilling out the rivets. 3.11

Replacement balljoint installation details (typical) — be

sure to tighten the bolts to the torque specified on the instruction sheet 1 2 3 4

3

Replacement balljoint Bolt Steering knuckle Control arm

5 6 7

Nut Castellated nut Cotter pin

~=Balljoint - check and replacement

8

Using a 1/8-inch drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the center of each ball-

joint-to-control arm rivet. Be careful not to damage the CV joint boot in the process. 9 Using a 1/2-inch drill bit, drill the head off each rivet. Work slowly and carefully to avoid deforming the holes in the control arm. 10

Loosen (but don’t remove) the stabilizer bar-to-control arm nut. Pull

the control arm and balljoint down to remove the balljoint stud from the steering knuckle, then dislodge the balljoint from the control arm. 11 Position the new balljoint on the control arm and install the bolts (supplied in the balljoint kit) from the top of the control arm (see illustration). Tighten'the bolts to the torque specified in the new balljoint instruction sheet. 12

Insertthe balljoint into the steering knuckle, install the castellated nut,

tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and install a new cotter pin. It may be necessary to tighten the nut some to align the

Refer to illustrations 3.3a, 3.3b and 3.11

cotter pin hole with an opening in the nut, which is acceptable. Never loos-

Check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from

rolling off the jackstands. 2

Visuallyinspectthe rubber seal for damage, deterioration and leaking

grease. If any of these conditions are noticed, the balljoint should be replaced. OE

a

en the castellated nut to allow cotter pin insertion. 13 Tighten the stabilizer bar-to-control arm nut to the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications. 14

Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the spe-

cified torque. It’s a good idea to take the vehicle to a dealer service department or service station to have the front end alignment checked and, if

necessary, adjusted. a

10

224

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

e

4.3.

Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut (arrow) from the balljoint stud

4.5a

4.4 Pry the balljoint out of the steering knuckle — if it’s stubborn and won't come out, strike the steering knuckle boss on both ~ sides (arrow) simultaneously with two hammers, then try again

Remove the control arm pivot bolts

4.5b. 4

Control arm — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 4.3, 4.4, 4.5a and 4.5b

1 2 3 4

Control arm and subframe assembly

Control arm Subframe Subframe bushing Control arm bushing

5 6 7

—

Subframe bushing nut Control arm bushing nut Washer ©

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and supportit securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 li only one control arm is being removed, disconnect only that end of the stabilizer bar. If both control arms are being removed, disconnect both ends (see Section 2 if necessary). 3 Rémove the balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle castellated nut and cotter pin (see illustration). 4 Using alarge pry bar positioned between the control arm and steering knuckle, “pop” the balljoint out of the knuckle (see illustration). Caution:

When removing the balljoint from the knuckle, be careful not to overextend the inner CV joint or it may be damaged. 5 Remove the two control arm pivot bolts and detach the control arm (see illustrations). 6 The control arm bushings are replaceable, but special tools and expertise are necessary to do the job. Carefully inspect the bushings for

hardening, excessive wear and cracks. If they appearto be worn or deteri-

orated, take the control arm to a dealer service department or repair shop.

Installation 7 Positionthe control arm inthe suspension support and install the pivot bolts. Do not tighten them completely at this time. 8 Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle boss, install the castellated nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up with an opening on the nut. Install a new cotter pin. 9 Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm bolt, spacer, bushings and washers and tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 10 Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.

:

ee af

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

225

“oe

5.4a

f

ae

5.4b

ttt

ome

Before you remove the three strut-to-shock tower nuts

Mark the strut-to-steering knuckle relationship and draw a line around the nuts with paint or a scribe

ee

ay

“Nas

:

eS.

."

5.6 Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts — the bolts are splined and must be driven out with a brass, lead or

(arrows), be sure to mark their relationship to the body

plastic hammer

11 With the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, tighten the control arm pivot bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Cau-

tion: /f the bolts aren't tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, control arm bushing damage may occur. 12 Drive the vehicle to a dealer service department or an alignment shop to have the front wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

5

1

lustration). Also mark the relationship of the upper strut mounting studs to

Front strut and spring assemb!y — removal, inspection and installation

Removal ’ Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.6 and 5.7

securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the brake line bracket from the strut (see illustration). 3 If the vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes, disconnect the front sensors. If the vehicle is equipped with the computer command ride (CCR), disconnect the CCR electrical connector from the front strut. 4 Using white paint or a scribe, mark the strut-to-steering knuckle relationship and make a line around the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts (see ilthe body (see illustration). 5 Separate the tie-rod end from the steering arm as described in Section 16.

|

Loosenthe wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it

6 Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts (see illustration) and knock the bolts out with a brass, lead or plastic hammer.

10

Chapter 10

5.7.

Suspension and steering systems

Pushin on the strut while pulling out on the top of the brake rotor to separate the knuckle and strut

7

Separate the strut from the steering knuckle (see illustration). Be

careful not to overextend the inner CV joint or stretch the brake hose. 8 Have an assistant support the strut assembly. Remove the three

strut-to-shock tower nuts. Remove the assembly out through the fender well.

Inspection 9

Checkthe strut body for leaking fluid, dents, cracks and other obvious

damage which would warrant repair or replacement. 10 Check the coil spring for chips and cracks in the spring coating (this will cause premature spring failure due to corrosion). Inspect the spring

seat for hardening, cracks and general deterioration. 11 If wear or damage is evident, proceed to Section 6 for the strut disassembly procedure.

5.12

Strut assembly details

Installation

Strut assembly

Refer to illustration 5.12

Strut-to-body nuts Brake line bracket bolt

12

Install the strut (see illustration). Once the three studs protrude from

Oh A Strut-to-steering

the shock tower, install the nuts so the strut won't fall back through. This may require an assistant, since the strut is quite heavy and awkward. Be sure to align the marks you made on disassembly.

knuckle nuts

?

13 Slide the steering knuckle into the strut flange and insert the two bolts. They should be positioned with the flats situated horizontally. Install the nuts, align the marks and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Install the tie-rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten the castel-

strut cartridges can be replaced. However, rebuilt strut assemblies (some complete with springs) are available on an exchange basis which elimi-

lated nut to the specified torque. Install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin won'tpass through, tighten the nutalittle more, but just enough to align the hole in the stud with a castellation on the nut (don’t loosen the nut).

the cost and availability of parts before disassembling anything. Warning:

14

15

Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the

torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 16 Tighten the three upper mounting nuts to the specified torque.

6

Strut cartridge — replacement

Referto illustrations 6.4, 6.5a, 6.5b, 6.6, 6.7, 6.11, 6.12, 6.14, 6.15a, 6.15b and 6.15c 1 ‘If the struts exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid, loss of dampening capability) explore all options before beginning any work. The sss

an

nates much time and work. Whichever route you choose to take, check on Disassembling a strut is a dangerous job. Be very careful and follow the instructions to the letter or serious injury may result. Use onlyahigh quality

spring compressor and carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions furnished with the tool. After removing the coil spring from the strut assem-

bly, set it aside in a safe, isolated area (a steel! cabinet is preferred). 2 Remove the strut and spring assembly following the procedure described in Section 5. Mount the strut assembly in a vise. Cushion the vise jaws with rags or blocks of wood. 3. Following the tool manufacturer's instructions, insta!lthe spring compressor (which can be obtained at most auto parts stores or equipment yards on a daily rental basis) on the spring and compress it sufficiently to relieve all pressure from the spring seat. This can be verified by wiggling the spring seat. O_O

a

|

Chapter 10

6.4 After the spring has been compressed, remove the damper

Suspension and steering systems

6.5a

Remove the bearing cap...

6.5b

227

...and the upper spring seat and insulator from the damper shaft

shaft nut

a

6.6

6.7

Remove the compressed spring assembly — be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when handling the spring!

Using a tubing cutter, cut the end cap off the strut body at the groove (arrow)

STRUT RESERVOIR

TUBE STRUT CARTRIDGE

NUT 10

eae

3 GROOVES ON CARTRIDGE MUST

LINE UP WITH

3 PADS IN BASE OF

CARTRIDGE

RESERVOIR TUBE.

6.11 Turn the cartridge until it seats in the depressions at the bottom of the tube

6.12

ail

Install the cartridge retaining nut — be careful not to cross-thread it

6.14 Extend the damper shaft (A) and hold it in place with a clothes pin (B)

228

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

NUT BEARING CAP BUMPER SHIELD UPPER SPRING INSULATOR SPRING

FLAT

ABSORBER AND STRUT ASSEMBLY

LOWER SPRING INSULATOR

6.15a

+

LOWER

SPRING SEAT

6.15b

Install the upper spring seat with the flat (arrow) facing the steering knuckle flange

Strut assembly details

4 Loosenthe damper shaft nut while using a socket wrench on the shaft hex to prevent it from turning (see illustration). 5 Lift the bearing cap, upper spring seat and upper insulator off the damper shaft (see illustrations). Inspect the bearing in the spring seat for smooth operation and replace it if necessary. 6 Carefully remove the compressed spring assembly (see illustration) and set it in a safe place, such as inside a steel cabinet. Warning: Don't position your head near the end of the spring! 7 Locate the groove cutin the strut reservoir tube, 3/4-inch from the top

of the tube (see illustration). Using a tubing cutter, cut around the groove until the reservoir tube is severed. Lift out the piston rod assembly with the cylinder and end cap. Discard these items. 8 Remove the strut reservoir tube from the vise and pour the damper fluid into an approved oil container. 9 Place the strut back in the vise and lightly file around the inner edge of the opening to eliminate any burrs that may have resulted from the cutting operation. Be careful not to damage the internal threads in the strut body. 10 Thread the cartridge retaining nut into the reservoir tube, as straight as possible, to establish a clean path in the existing threads. Remove the nut. 11 Insertthe replacementstrut cartridge into the reservoir tube and turnit until you feel the pads on the bottom of the cartridge seat in the depressions at the bottom of the reservoir tube (see illustration). 12 Slide the nut over the cartridge and thread it into the tube (see illustration), tightening it to the torque specified in the kit instructions. 13 Stroke the damper shaft up-and-down a few times to verify proper operation. 14 Extend the damper shaft all the way and hold itin place with a clothes pin at the bottom of the rod (see illustration). 15 Assemble the strut beginning with the lower spring insulator and spring, then the upper spring insulator, spring seat and bearing cap. Position the spring seat and bearing cap with the flats facing the steering

knuckle flange (see illustrations). 16 Install the damper shaft nut and tighten it securely. Remove clothes pin from the damper shaft. 17 Install the strut and spring assembly as outlined in Section 5.

the

6.15c

7

= * we The bearing cap must also be positioned with the flat (arrow) facing the knuckle flange

Front hub and wheel bearing assembly — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 7.6, 7.7, 7.8, 7.9 and 7.10

Note: The front hub and wheel bearing assembly is sealed-for-life and must be replaced as a unit. ‘ 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Don't place the jackstands under the control arms. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

220

0 4 7.6

Ano. 55 Torx bit is required to remove the hub bolts — DO NOT use an Allen wrench or the bolts will be damaged

7.8

2

Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm (see Section 2 if

3 Removethe balljoint-to-steering knuckle nut and separate the control arm from the knuckle (see Section 4). 4 Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle and hang it out of the way with a piece of wire (see Chapter 9). Pull the rotor off the hub and remove the driveaxle (see Chapter 8 if

necessary). 6

G 7.7

Using ano. 55 Torx bit, remove the three hub retaining bolts through

the opening in the flange (see illustration). Wigglethe hub and bearing assembly back-and-forth and pull it out of 7 the steering knuckle, along with the rotor shield (see illustration).

Ifthe hub and bearing assembly is being replaced with a new one, it's 8 agood idea to replace the dust seal in the back of the steering knuckle. Pry it out of the knuckle with a screwdriver (see illustration). Drive the new dust seal into the knuckle with a large socket or a seal 9 driver and a hammer (seeillustration). Try notto cock the seal inthe bore.

Pull the hub and bearing assembly and the rotor shield out of the steering knuckle

7.9

Pry the seal out of the knuckle with a screwdriver

necessary).

5

oi!

Using a large socket, drive the new seal into place

10 Install a new O-ring around the rear of the bearing and push it up against the bearing flange (see illustration).

11

Clean the mating surfaces on the steering knuckle, bearing flange

and knuckle bore. Lubricate the outside diameter of the bearing and the seal lips with high-temperature grease and insert the hub and bearing into the steering knuckle. Position the rotor shield and install the three bolts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Install the driveaxle (see Chapter 8). 13 Attach the control arm to the steering knuckle (see Section 4). 14 Reconnect the stabilizer bar to the control arm (see Section 2). 15

Install the brake rotor and caliper (see Chapter 9).

16 Install the hub nut and tighten it securely. Prevent the axle from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the caliper and into a rotor cooling vane (see Chapter 8 if necessary). 17 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the spe cified torque. 18 Tighten the hub nut to the torque specified in Chapter 8

Neen rr ee

"""""'n'nnnnnw—wwwnnn

10

230

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

3 Remove the caliper and suspend itout of the way with a piece of wire. Lift the rotor off the hub. : . 4 Mark the position of the two strut-to-knuckle nuts and remove them — (see illustration 5.4a). Don’t drive out the bolts at this time. 5 Separate the control arm balljoint from the steering knuckle (see Sec- — tion 4 if necessary). 6 Attachapuller to the hub flange and push the driveaxle outofthe hub (see Chapter 8). Hang the driveaxle with a piece of wire to prevent damage to the inner CV joint. 7 Supportthe knuckle and drive out the two strut-to-knuckle bolts with a soft-face hammer. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the strut.

Installation

7.10

Hub and bearing installation details

1 2 3.

Hubandbearingassembly Steering knuckle Rotor shield

5 6 7

Hubnut Seal Hub and bearing retaining bolt

4

Washer

8

O-ring

8 Position the knuckle in the strut and insert the two splined bolts, with the flats on the bolt heads in the horizontal position. Tap the bolts into place and install the nuts, but don’t tighten them at this time. 9 Install the driveaxle in the hub. 10 Connect the control arm to the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a new cotter pin. 11 Align the strut-to-knuckle nuts with the previously applied marks and. tighten them to the specified torque. 12 Install the brake rotor and caliper. 13 Tighten the hub nut securely. : 14 Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque. 15 Tighten the hub nut to the torque specified in Chapter 8.

9

8

Steering knuckle and hub — removal and installation

Rear stabilizer bar — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 9.5, 9.6, 9.7 and 9.8 1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. 3 Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels.

Removal 1

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it

securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel.

2 Remove the hub nut. Insert a screwdriver through the caliper and into a rotor cooling vane to prevent the driveaxle from turning.

9.5

To detach the rear stabilizer bar link bolt assembly from the

knuckle, simply remove the nut on the upper end (arrow) and tap the link bolt out — don’t lose any of the bushings or washers

4 Remove the rear wheels. 5 Detach the stabilizer bar link bolt assemblies from the knuckle brackets (see illustration). 6 If you’re replacing the stabilizer bar and/or the lower bushing from the hanger clamp only, remove the pinch bolt from each hanger clamp (see illustration), bend the end of the clamp open and remove the stabilizer bar and bushings.

9.6

If you’re replacing the rear stabilizer bar and/or lower

bushing, remove this bolt on each hanger clamp, bend the clamp open and remove the bar : £

2

-

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

231

5 oa | ee ont cape !

,

;

oad

al

.

al

*

9.7 If you’re going to reinstall the same stabilizer bar or replace both bushings, simply remove the upper hanger clamp bolt and leave the clamp attached to the bar during removal 7

lf you plan to reinstall the same bar or replace both bushings, simply

remove the upper bolt from the hanger clamp (see illustration) and leave the hanger attached to the stabilizer bar. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustration). Tighten the fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

10

Rear strut —- removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.3, 10.9, 10.10 and 10.12

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2

Remove the rear speaker assembly (see Chapter 12).

3 Remove the trunk side cover (see illustration). 4 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. 5 Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels. 6 Remove the rear wheels. 7 Ifthe vehicle is equipped with electronic level control (ELC), remove

9.8

Details of the rear stabilizer bar assembly

1 2 3 4

Bolt Washer Bushings Stabilizer bar bracket

7 Bolt 8 Stabilizer bar 9 Bolts 10 +Nut

the ELC air tube from the strut air tube fitting. If the vehicle is equipped with

5

Nut

11.

the computer command ride (CCR), disconnect the CCR electrical con-

6

Hanger clamp

Bracket

nector from the front strut. 8 Support the control arm at the balljoint with a jackstand or floorjack

(see illustration 11.9). 9 Remove the strut tower mounting nuts from inside the trunk (see illustration).

wean

10

vs

whe idZt 4a ng OE

10.3

splay

2

¥eow

the weoy

y ae

v

eet

4

Sy"

-

Remove the trunk side cover...

:

10.9

i>

Fae c/

...then remove the strut tower mounting nuts (arrows)

232

Chapter 10

10.10

Suspension and steering systems

Remove the nuts and pull out the bolts (arrows) from the knuckle — don’t lose the washers

10.12

Details of the rear strut assembly

1 = Strut 2 ‘Stabilizer bar bracket 3 Knuckle 4 Nuts

4 11.9 Support the control arm at the balljoint with a floor jack or a jackstand — place a chain through the spring and the control arm to prevent the chain from flying off when the control arm is lowered

10 Remove the nuts, bolts and wastiers from the knuckle (see illustration). 11. Remove the strut.

12

Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustration). Tighten the

fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

11.

Rear springs and insulators — removal and installation

5 6 7

Washers Bolts Nuts

6 _ If the vehicle is equipped with electronic level control (ELC), detach the ELC height sensor link from the right control arm. 7 Detach the rear stabilizer bar (see Section 9). 8 Detach the suspension adjustment link (see Section 13). 9 Placeafloorjack underthe spring pocket of the control arm (see illustration). Raise the jack just enough to remove tension from the control arm. 10 Placeachainaround the spring and through the control arm as a safety measure.

11 Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts and detach the strut from the knuckle (see Section 10). ; 12 Slowly lower the jack to relieve tension on the control arm. When all compression is removed from the spring, remove the safety chain, spring and insulators.

13

Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustration). Tighten the

fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Refer to illustrations 11.9 and 11.13 1. Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. 3 Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Make sure the jackstands aren't under the control arms. Block the front wheels. 4 Remove the rear wheels. 5 Detach the parking brake cable retaining clip from the left controlarm.

12

Rear hub and wheel bearing assembly — removal — and installation -_

Refer to illustration 12.6

'

;

Note: The rear hub and bearing assembly is sealed for life and must be replaced as a unit.

i‘? »

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

233

12.6 To remove the rear hub and wheel bearing assembly, rotate the stud flange until one of its holes is aligned with each of the :

four flange mounting Torx bolts (the brake shoe assembly is shown removed for clarity)

stall two of the bolts finger tight. This will prevent the brake line from being strained under the weight of the backing plate.

11.13

7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

Details of the rear coil spring assembly

1 2

Control arm Coil spring

3

Insulators

4 5

Bolts Nuts

13

1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. 3 Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels. 4 Remove the rear wheel. 5 Remove the brake drum (see Chapter 9). 6 To remove the hub and bearing assembly, you'll need to rotate the stud flange to align one of it holes with each of the four mounting flange Torx bolts (see illustration). When the last bolt is removed, support the ‘backing plate assembly, remove the hub and bearing assembly and rein-

ee

13.5

4

.

=

7am

Soe7)

7

Rear suspension adjustment link — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 13.5, 13.7 and 13.9 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the cotter pin and nut (see illustration). outer suspension adjustment link from the knuckle with a puller (see illustration 16.2b). 7 To detach the inner end of the link from the control arm, remove the

Separate the — aoarwoNnd

retaining nut, washer and spacer (see illustration).

—

Remove the cotter pin and nut (arrow) from the suspension adjustment link stud

13.7 To detach the inner end of the suspension adjustment link from the control arm, remove this nut (arrow) — don’t lose the washer and spacer

234

Chapter 10

13.9

Suspension and steering systems

Details of the suspension adjustment link assembly

1.

Control arm

6

2

Knuckle

7

Washer

3.

Cotter pin

8

Spacer

9

Boot (left side only)

4

Nut

5

Suspension adjustment link

8 9

10

Nut

~=Nut

Remove the suspension adjustment link from the control arm. Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustration). Tighten the

fasteners to the specified torques and use a new cotter pin.

14

Rear control arm — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 14.9 and 14.11 Note: Replacement of the bushings in the rear control arms requires a

numberof special tools. Balljoint replacementis difficult if special tools are not available. If a bushing or balljoint must be replaced, take the control arm to a dealer service department. 1 2

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.

3

Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands.

Block the front wheels.

4 Remove the electronic level control (ELC) height sensor link, if equipped, from the right control arm. 5

14.11

Exploded view of the rear control arm assembly 1 2 3

Control arm Knuckle Rear pivot bolt

4

Pivot bolt nuts

§ — Front pivot bolt 6 Cotter pin 7 Castellated ie

Remove the parking brake cable retaining clip from the left control

arm. 6 Remove the suspension adjustment link from the control arm (see Section 13). 7 Remove the coil spring (see Section 11). 8 Toseparate the knuckle from the balljoint stud, refertoSection 4 (the procedure for splitting the rear knuckle and ball stud is identical to the procedure for splitting a front knuckle and stud). 9 Remove the control arm pivot bolts (see illustration). 10 Remove the control arm from the vehicle. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustration). Tighten the fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension or steering components. In-

stead, replace any bent or damaged part with a new one. Allvehicles covered by this manual have power rack-and-pinion steering systems. The components making up the system are the steering wheel, steering column, rack and pinion assembly, tie-rods and tie-rod ends. The power steering system has a belt-driven pump to provide hydraulic pressure. In the power steering system, the motion of turning the steering wheel is transferred through the column to the pinion shaft in the rack-and-pinion

assembly. Teeth on the pinion shaft are meshed with teeth on the rack, so 15

Steering system — general information

Warning: Whenever any of the steering fasteners are removed, they must be inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones of the same part

when the shaft is turned, the rack is moved left or right in the housing. A rotary control valve in the rack-and-pinion unit directs hydraulic fluid under pressure from the power steering pump to either side of the integral rack piston, which is connected to the rack, thereby reducing manual steering force. Depending on which side of the piston this hydra

Chapter 10

16.2a

Suspension and steering systems

Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the

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235

16.2b ... then separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm with a two-jaw puller - DO NOT pound on the stud!

tie-rod end,stud Stee

positions, while with the key release model the ignition key is locked in the column until a lever is depressed to extract it.

Because disassembly of the steering column is more often performed to repair a switch or other electrical part than to correct a problem in the steering, the upper steering column disassembly and reassembly procedure is included in Chapter 12.

16

Tie-rod ends — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2a,

16.2b and 16.3

Removal 1

Loosenthe wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and supportit

securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel.

2

16.3

Using white paint, mark the relationship of the tie-rod end and the threaded adjuster

Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie-rod, then dis-

connect the tie-rod from the steering knuckle arm with a puller (see illustrations). 3. Mark the relationship of the tie-rod end to the threaded adjuster (see illustration). This will ensure the toe-in setting is restored when reassembled. 4 Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.

Installation 5

applied to, the rack will be forced either left or right, which moves the tierods, etc. If the power steering system loses hydraulic pressure it will still function manually, though with increased effort. The steering columnis acollapsible, energy-absorbing type, designed to compress in the event of a front end collision to minimize injury to the driver. The column also houses the ignition switch lock, key warning buzzer, turn signal controls, headlight dimmer control and windshield wiper controls. The ignition and steering wheel can both be locked while the ve-

hicle is parked. Due to the column's collapsible design, it's important that only the specified screws, bolts and nuts be used as designated and that they're tightened to the specified torque. Other precautions particular to this design

Threadthe tie-rod end onto the tie-rod to the marked position and con-

nectthe tie-rod end to the steering arm. Install the castellated nut and tightenitto the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install anew cotter pin. 6 Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque. 7 Havethe frontend steering geometry checked by a dealer service de-

partment or an alignment shop.

17

Steering gear — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.5, 17.14, 17.12a, 17.12b, 17.15a and 17.15b

are noted in appropriate Sections. In addition to the standard steering column, optional tilt and key re-

1 2 3

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands.

lease versions are also offered. The tilt model can be set in five different

4

Remove the wheels.

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236

17.5

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

17.11

Remove the pinch bolt from the end of the steering column

Remove the two subframe-to-body mounting bolts (arrows) at each rear corner of the subframe

and unplug the compressor cutout switch wire (arrows)

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