Haynes Bedford HA Van Owners Workshop Manual 1850105561, 9781850105565

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BEDFORD I. All models □ 1964 to 1983 1057 cc □ 1159 cc □ 1256 cc

Owners Workshop Manual

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2020 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/bedfordhavanowneOOOOcoom

Bedford HA Van Owners Workshop Manual I M Coomber Models covered

All Bedford HA Vans; 6, 8 & 1 0 cwt 1057 cc, 1159 cc & 1256 cc ISBN 1 85010 556 1

© Haynes Publishing Group 1982, 1988 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. Printed in England (607-8P7)

Haynes Publishing Group

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes Publications, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Coomber, Ian, 1943Bedford HA van owners workshop manual. 1. Motor vans. Maintenance & repair - Amateurs' manuals 1. Title II. Series 629 2873 ISBN 1-85010-556-1

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C&l b S14145Sacf\

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to General Motors Limited for the provision of technical information and certain illustrations. Duckhams Oils pro¬ vided lubrication data, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions.

The Bedford HA used in our workshops as the project vehicle was supplied by Abbey Hill Vehicle Services Ltd. Special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

About this manual its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter - eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the left or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information In this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in. or omissions from, th© information giv©n.

Introduction to the Bedford HA Van The HA Series Bedford van is a direct development from The original Vauxhall HA Viva saloon, which was first introduced in 1963the van variants were introduced in August 1964. In general the vehicle has changed very little over its many years of production. The original engine was of a 1057 cc (64 5 cu in) and was of overhead valve, water cooled design, the crankshaft having three main bearings. The engine was later enlarged to 1159 cc (70 7 unaltered^

^ 1256 C° (?6'6 CU in)' bUt the deSign remained

A four speed gearbox is fitted with synchromesh on all forward gears and again its design has remained the same throughout the years of production. The hypoid rear axle is of the semi-floating type with overhead mounted pinion. Two versions have always been available, HAE and HAV, oriqinally iPnay °HduA0ifonand 8 °Wt resPective|y-TCurrent models are the HA1 10 and HAI30, rated at 6 cwt and 10 cwt. HAi

Contents Page Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Bedford HA Van

2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

6

Tools and working facilities

7

Jacking and towing

9

Safety first!

10

Routine maintenance

11

Recommended lubricants and fluids

14

Fault diagnosis

15

Chapter 1

Engine

19

Chapter 2

Cooling system

47

Chapter 3

Carburettor, fuel and exhaust systems (also see Chapter 13)

54

Chapter 4

Ignition system

71

Chapter 5

Clutch

78

Chapter 6

Gearbox

84

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

99

Chapter 8

Rear axle

103

Chapter 9

Braking system

108

Chapter 10 Electrical system Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

124 162

Chapter 12 Bodywork

183

Chapter 13 Supplement: information on later models

196

General repair procedures

200

Conversion factors

201

Index

202

'

J

Bedford HA 110 Van

Bedford HA 130 Van

r

v 5

j

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: General Motors garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed GM garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty: non-GM components may invaliate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your vehicle's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean I It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your vehicle for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your vehicle (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Mot°r factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components.

pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/ hoses/seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and manufacture quite apart from major manuals and lists are compiled upon a vehicle numbers being essential to component required.

unpublished process in vehicle model changes. Spare part numerical basis, the individual correct identification of the

When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the vehicle model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers, as appropriate. Engine number: The engine number is stamped on a flat surface on the right-hand side of the engine at the front end. Chassis number: The chassis number is stamped on a model identification plate located to the left-hand rear of the engine compartment. The paint identification number is also on this plate (photo).

Engine number location Chassis number plate

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can under¬ take more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he {eels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair oper¬ ations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combina¬ tion spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

^ f, jg, f

Combination spanners - ^ j, in AF Combination spanners - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in long x \ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun OH can Fine emery doth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tooI kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the | in square-drive

type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot affoid a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) 'Mole' wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in long x ^ in dia (fiat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x % in square (fiat blade) Screwdriver - 1} in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x ^ in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - \ inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists' club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers' special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers' special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool dannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor (where applicable) Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer

8

Tools and working facilities Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least ^ in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)1

Spanner size

0.250 0.276 0.313 0.31 5

f 7 ^ 8

in AF mm in AF mm

Jaw gap (in) 0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525 0.551 0.563 0.591 0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024 1.063 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 1.575 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688 1.81 1 1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

Spanner size in AF; f in Whitworth 9 mm f in AF 10 mm 11 mm i? in AF A in Whitworth; 4- in BSF 12 mm f in AF 13 mm f in Whitworth; ^ in BSF 14 mm ft in AF 1 5 mm i| in Whitworth; f in BSF f in AF 16 mm 1 7 mm ft in AF 1 8 mm f in Whitworth; ft in BSF 19 mm f in AF j§ in AF ft in Whitworth; ft in BSF 22 mm ft in AF ft in Whitworth; ft in BSF I in AF 24 mm 1 in AF ,4 in Whitworth; 4 in BSF 26 mm 1ft in AF; 27 mm | in Whitworth; ft in BSF 1ft in AF 30 mm ft in Whitworth; f in BSF If in AF 32 mm f in Whitworth; ft in BSF 1,^ in AF ft in Whitworth; jf in BSF 36 mm 1ft in AF f in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 1ft in AF 40 mm; Jf in Whitworth 41 mm If in AF 1 in Whitworth; If in BSF 1ft in AF 46 mm 1ft in AF If in Whitworth; If in BSF If in AF 50 mm 2 in AF If in Whitworth; If in BSF 55 mm 60 mm 35

Jacking and towing Jacking When changing a roadwheel, the jack supplied with the vehicle may be used, inserting it into the jacking points which are located below the bodysills. Where maintenance or repairs are being carried out, use a jack located either under the front crossmember or the rear axle casing tubes. Before getting under the car, always supplement the jack with axle stands or blocks positioned under the bodyframe members.

Towing and being towed Tow rope connections must be made to the main structural members of the vehicle and not to the bumper bars or brackets. Make sure that any tow rope being used is of sufficient length, and remember that without the engine running, the power assistance (where applicable) for the brakes vvron't be available and harder foot pressure will therefore be required. On models fitted with a steering lock ensure that the key is in position and set at position I.

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working proce¬ dures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or Park' where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below).

DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. DON T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire^with water. Note: Any reference to a 'torch' appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious¬ ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

Ignition FIT voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, whemthe engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltaqe is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your vehicle. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication, oiling, greasing and so on, has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is a serious delusion. It follows, therefore, that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. The maintenance instructions are those recommended by the manufacturers. They are supplemented by additional maintenance tasks which, from practical experience, need to be carried out.

8 9 10 11 12 13

Every 3000 miles (4800 km) or 3 months (whichever comes first) 1

2

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly - whichever comes first 1 2 3 4 5 6

Check the engine sump oil level and top-up if required (photo). Check the radiator coolant level and top-up if required (photo). CheCk the battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of the plates with distilled water as needed. Do all bulbs work at the front and rear? Are the headlight beams aligned properly? Do the wipers and horns work?

7

Check windscreen washer fluid level (photo).

Checking the engine oil level

Check the tyre pressures, including the spare wheel. Examine tyres for wear or damage. Is steering smooth and accurate? Check reservoir fluid level. Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

3 4

Drain the engine oil when hot and refill with the specified grade and quantity of oil (photo). Ensure that the vehicle is standing on level ground when checking the oil level. Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder (photo). Top-up if necessary and do not allow any dirt to enter the hydraulic circuit. Wipe clean any spilt fluid from surrounding paintwork. Note: Should continuous topping-up become necessary, the brake system will have to be inspected and the fluid leak traced and rectified (see Chapter 9). Where vehicle operates in very dusty conditions, remove and clean the air filter, (see Chapter 3). Check that the battery lead terminals are secure and free of

corrosion.

Topping up the radiator coolant level

Change the engine oil

Check the windscreen washer fluid level in the reservoir

Topping up the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder

12

Routine maintenance 13

Every 6000 miles (9600 km) or every 6 months (whichever comes first) 14 1

2

3 4 5

6 7 8 9

10

11

12

Drain the engine oil (as for the 3000 mile service) and at the same time, renew the oil filter element as given in Chapter 1, Section 23. Check the fan belt for wear and tension. To renew and/or adjust the belt tension refer to Chapter 2, Section 10. On early models fitted with a dynamo, lubricate its rear bearing with engine oil. Remove and clean the air cleaner as given in Chapter 3. Lubricate the carburettor and throttle linkages. Check the damper oil level (Zenith/Stromberg 150 CD). Clean the filter in the fuel pump. Buy a spare filter cover gasket. Undo the screw holding the metal cover plate and gasket. With a small paint brush flick away any loose deposits from the circular portion on the base of the pump adjacent to the gasket. Pull off the mesh filter and clean it in petrol. Inspect the sealing gasket and, if compressed with a groove, fit a new one. Refit the fine gauze filter and the cover, and retighten the screw moderately. Run the engine to make sure the seal is good. Remove the sparking plugs, clean them, and reset the gap as described in Chapter 4. Check and if necessary clean and adjust the distributor contact breaker points as given in Chapter 4. Remove the rocker cover. Then check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances as given in Chapter 1, Section 49. Check and if necessary top-up the gearbox oil level. A combined oil lever/filler plug is found on the left-hand side of the gearbox. When removing the plug, place a suitable container underneath to catch any overflow. There's little point in fiddling about trying to see where the level is, so add SAE 80EP or 90EP gear oil from one of the dispensers with a convenient flexible filler pipe until the oil just starts to overflow. At this point refit the plug. Don't overfill the gearbox, as too much oil will cause pressure build-up, forcing oil out into the clutch housing or through the rear oil seal. Whatever you do, make sure you use the grade and type of oil specified - there's no drain plug, so you don't get a second chance!

15 16

Check the brake pedal travel and, if it is excessive, the brake shoes should be adjusted to compensate for wear in the linings — refer to Chapter 9. Lubricate all joints in the handbrake mechanism with an oil can filled with engine oil (photo). On disc brake models examine the brake disc pads for wear and change the pads round if one is much more worn than the other. Check the steering gear rubber boots for signs of oil leakage, (photo).

Lubricate the handbrake cable linkage pivots

Check and if necessary top-up the rear axle oil level. The axle housing cover has a combined filler/level plug as shown in the photo. Before removing the plug, clean it and the surrounding area of the differential housing, and place the overflow container in position. Top-up if necessary using SAE 90EP gear oil applied with a flexible container/dispenser until the oil just starts to overflow, at which point refit the plug. Run the engine up to its normal operating temperature and then check the carburettor slow running (idle) speed. Adjust if necess¬ ary as given in Chapter 3. Check and if necessary adjust the clutch fork free travel as given in Chapter 5.

steering gear rubber boots (1) suspension arm joint rubbers (2) and rebound rubbers (3) for general condition

17 18

Check the front wheel hub bearings for signs of wear or maladjustment, (refer to Chapter 11). Examine the tyre treads and walls for signs of damage or excessive wear.

19

^necK ana aajust it necessary the front wheel alignment, (Chapter

20

Check for wear in the steering gear, the balljoints and couplinqs (Chapter 11).

21

Check the exhaust system for signs \>f advanced corrosion, damage and security, (photo).

22

Oil the door, bonnet and boot hinges and locks with a few drops of engine oil from an oil can.

Rear axle oil level/filler plug location in the housing cover

13

Routine maintenance

Check condition and security of exhaust system

Every 12 000 miles (19 000 km) or annually (whichever comes first)

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) 1

1

2

3

4

5 6 7

Clean and lubricate the front wheel bearings and grease cap

Remove brake drums and inspect the linings and hydraulic wheel cylinders

Remove and renew the air cleaner element where a paper type is fitted. In very dusty conditions the filter should be renewed at 6000 mile intervals. Remove, renew and adjust the distributor contact breaker points as given in Chapter 4, then check the adjustment of the ignition timing (also given in that Chapter), lubricate the distributor at the points shown. Inspect the ignition leads for cracks and signs of perishing and replace as necessary. Ensure the ends of the leads are firmly attached to the plug clips and ensure the clips fit tightly over the heads of the plugs. Remove the brake drums and inspect the brake linings for wear and the hydraulic wheel cylinders for signs of leakage, (Chapter 9). Where applicable clean the crankcase breather valve hose. Have the anti-freeze strength checked and top-up if necessary. Inspect the security of the seat belts and anchorages.

2

Grease the front suspension upper and lower stub axle balljoints. A grease nipple is provided on the balljoints at the top and bottom of each stub axle upright — a total of four nipples. Clean each nipple in turn and then inject grease with a grease gun until the rubber boot at the base of each joint can be felt to be fairly full. Do not inject too much grease or the protective boots may split. If this occurs the balljoint must be removed and a new boot fitted. Running with a split boot results in rapid wear of the exposed joint. Once every three years, or between 30 000 and 40 000 miles, thoroughly overhaul the brake system fitting new rubber seals and hoses throughout. Details are given in Chapter 9.

Every 24 000 miles (38 600 km) or two yearly intervals 1 2 3 4 5

6

Dismantle, clean and relubricate the front wheel hub bearings, referring to Chapter 11. Inspect and if necessary renew any suspension bushes which have worn or deteriorated. Check the torque settings of all steering and suspension bolts, (Chapter 11). Drain, flush and refill the cooling system with a new antifreeze mixture, (see Chapter 2). Although not officially recommended by the manufacturers, in the author's experience it is beneficial to change the gearbox oil once every 24 000 miles. With time the oil will become contaminated with minute metal particles worn off the gears and bearings, and, by changing the oil at this mileage, further wear will be minimised. As there is no gearbox drain plug it is not possible to drain the oil completely without going to a lot of trouble. The two methods recommended are siphoning the oil out of the filter plug hole using a piece of flexible tube or by placing the vehicle with the front as high as possible and disengaging the propeller shaft from the rear of the gearbox. In either case the oil to be drained should be as warm as possible. Refill with SAE 80EP or 90EP gear oil. When hot, drain the oil from the rear axle by undoing the bolts holding the rear cover in place. Clean the rear cover and refill with 11 2 3 4 5 6 7 /4 pints of SAE '90EP gear oil. This is not a factory recommended task as there will have been no deterioration in the condition of the oil. However with time, the oil will become contaminated with minute particles of metal and, for this reason, the author prefers to change the rear axle oil every two years or 24 000 miles rather than have it in place for the life of the vehicle.

Distributor lubrication points 7 2 3

Felt.pad Baseplate hole Cam lubricator (grease only)

1

2

3

4

Vehicle principal lubrication and maintenance/check points 1 2 3

Engine oil Front suspension arm balljoints Hydraulic master cylinder reservoir Air cleaner (gauze type filter element) Rear axle oil

4 5

6 7 8 9 10

Gearbox oil Engine oil level dipstick Distributor Engine oil filter Front suspension arm balljoints 11 Front wheel bearings

Recommended lubricants and fluids Component or system

Lubricant type/specification

Duckhams recommendation

Engine

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50

Duckhams QXR, Hypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil

Front suspension balljoints

Multi-purpose lithium based grease with molybdenum disulphide

Duckhams LBM 10

Brake master cylinder

Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Air filter (gauze type)

Multigrade engine oil

Duckhams QXR, Hypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil

Rear axle

Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP

Duckhams Hypoid 90S

Gearbox

Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP or 90EP

Duckhams Hypoid 80

Distributor Contact breaker cam Other moving parts

Multi-purpose lithium based grease Light oil

Duckhams LB 10 Duckhams Home Oil

Wheel bearings

Multi-purpose lithium based grease

Duckhams LB 10

Cooling system

Ethylene glycol based antifreeze, to BS 3151, 3152 or 6580

Duckhams Universal Antifreeze and Summer Coolant

Carburettor damper (Zenith/ Stromberg 150 CD)

Multigrade engine oil

Steering box

Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 140EP

Duckhams QXR, Hypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil t

Duckhams Hypoid 140

Fault diagnosis Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately.

Don't overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don't take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don't trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don't take anything for granted. Particularly, don't forget that a 'new' component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don't leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mech¬ anical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions - heat, vibration and chemical attack - and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery 'earthed', ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components - motors, bulb holders etc - are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the

16

Fault diagnosis

A few spares carried in the vehicle can save a long walk!

battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery; this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Tow-rope Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Worm drive' dips Tube of filler paste If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering; Clutch and throttle cables Cylinder head gasket Dynamo or alternator brushes Fuel pump repair kit Tyre valve core One of the motoring organisations will be able to advise on availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Tools and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, dean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap - long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points Drive belt!si - emergency type may suffice Spare fuses '' Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads

Engine will not start

Engine fails to turn when starter operated Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch faulty Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective •% Engine earth strap loose Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Fault diagnosis

17

Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly - ignition fault Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out - fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Jump start lead connections for NEGATIVE EARTH vehicles - connect leads in order shown For positive earth vehicles the connections are as follows: 1 Negative terminal on discharged battery 2 Negative terminal on booster battery 3 Positive terminal on booster battery 4 Earth on discharged battery vehicle

Engine cuts out - other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) Engine overheats

Ignition (no-charge) warning light illuminated Slack or broken drivebelt — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flat battery Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (if applicable) No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, clean and regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating correctly Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Crank engine and check for spark. Hold plug cap with insulated tool or rubber glove!

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose

18

Fault diagnosis Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear Worn timing chain or belt Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping Unintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blades) Worn fanbelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Chapter 1

Engine

Contents Big-end (connecting rod) and crankshaft main bearings examination and renovation. Camshaft and tappets - examination and renovation. Camshaft and tappets - refitting. Camshaft and tappets - removal. Crankcase ventilation system (1256 cc engines). Crankshaft - examination and renovation. Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting. Crankshaft and main bearings - removal. Crankshaft pulley, timing cover, sprockets and chain - removal.. Cylinder block and crankcase - examination and renovation. Cylinder head - decarbonisation. Cylinder head - examination. Cylinder head - reassembly... Cylinder head - refitting. Cylinder head removal - engine in vehicle. Cylinder head removal - engine out of vehicle. Engine - dismantling general. Engine - final reassembly. Engine - refitting. Engine - removal with gearbox. Engine - removal without gearbox. Engine - starting up and initial adjustments after major overhaul. Engine dismantling - ancillary components removal. Engine lubrication system - description. Engine reassembly general. Examination and renovation - general. Fault diagnosis - engine ..

28 31 42 19 24 27 39 21 15 29 35 36 46 47 10 9 7 51 52 5 6 53 8 22 38 25 54

Flywheel - refitting. 45 Flywheel - removal. 20 Flywheel and starter ring - examination and renovation. 33 General description. 1 Gudgeon pins. 17 Inlet and exhaust valves - refitting. 50 Major operations only possible after removal of engine from vehicle. 3 Major operations possible with engine in vehicle. 2 Methods of engine removal. 4 Oil filter - renewal of element. 23 Oil pump - examination and renovation. 26 Oil pump and oil filter - removal. 14 Oil pump and sump - refitting. 44 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - refitting. 41 Pistons and rings - examination and renovation. 30 Pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings - removal.16 Piston rings - refitting. 40 Piston rings - removal. 18 Sump — removal. 13 Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and renovation. 32 Timing sprockets, chain, tensioner and timing case - refitting. 43 Valve assemblies - examination and renovation. 37 Valve clearances - adjustment. 49 Valve rocker arms and pushrods - refitting. 48 Valve rocker arms and pushrods - examination and renovation .. 34 Valve rocker arms - removal. 11 Valves - removal from the cylinder head. 12

Specifications

Engine type

.

4 cylinder in line, OHV pushrod operation, water cooled

Engine - general Bore... Stroke. Cubic capacity. Compression ratio. Firing order. Location of number 1 cylinder. Minimum compression pressure - 1057 cc and 1159 cc engines Low compression engine. High compression engine. Minimum compression pressure - 1256 cc engine*. *Low compression (7.3:1) ratio only available

2.925 in (74.3 mm) 3.062 in (77.7 mm) 3.188 in (81 mm) 2.400 in (61 mm) 2.400 in (61 mm) 2.400 in (61 mm) 1057 cc (64.5 cu in) 1159 cc (70.7 cu in) 1256 cc (76.6 cu in) 7.3:1 or 8.5:1 (dependent on year and model) 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 Radiator end 110 lbf/in2 125 lbf/in2 120 lbf/in2

Cylinder head and valves: Maximum permissible distortion: Longitudinally. Transversely. Manifold face.

0.005 in (0.1270 mm) 0.003 in (0.0762 mm) 0.002 in (0.0508 mm)

20

Chapter 1

Minimum depth of cylinder head after refacing: 1057 cc engine. 1159 cc engine. 1256 cc engine. Valve seat angle. Valve seat width: Inlet . Exhaust. Valve head minimum thickness: Inlet . Exhaust. Valve stem bore diameter: 1057 cc engine. 1159 cc and 1256 cc engines Inlet . Exhaust. Valve clearances (hot), 1057 cc and 1159 cc engines Inlet . Exhaust. 1256 cc engine - inlet and exhaust. Valve springs free length - nominal: 1057 cc engine. 1159 cc and 1256 cc engines. Valve timing - inlet valve open maximum.

Engine

3.168 in (80.467 mm) 3.185 in (80.899 mm) 3.235 in (82.169 mm) 45° 0.05 to 0.06 in (1.270 to 1.524 mm) 0.06 to 0.08 in (1.524 to 2.032 mm) 0.03 in (0.76 mm) 0.04 in (1.01 mm) 0.2765 to 0.2773 in (7.02 to 7.04 mm) 0.2748 to 0.2755 in (6.976 to 6.997 mm) 0.2745 to 0.2752 in (6.972 to 6.990 mm)

'

0.006 in (0.1 52 mm) 0.010 in (0.254 mm) 0.008 in (0.203 mm) 1.48 in (37.5 mm) 1.50 in (38.1 mm) 107° ATDC

Cylinder block and crankcase Type... Water jackets. Oversize bores. Permissible distortion on top face - longitudinal. - transverse. Minimum block depth after re-facing (top face to bearing cap face) ...

Cast iron - cylinders cast integrally with upper half of crankcase Full length 0.005, 0.020, 0.040 in (0.127, 0.508, 1.016 mm) 0.005 in (0.127 mm) maximum 0.003 in (0.076 mm) maximum 7.508 in (1 90.7 mm)

Pistons Number of rings.

2 compression, 1 scraper

1057 cc engine Ring groove width: Top. Second . Bottom. Piston clearance in cylinder bore. Piston oversizes available. Piston rings: (Top) thickness. Clearance in piston grooves. Gap in cylinder bore. (Second) - details as per top ring (Bottom) thickness. Clearance in piston groove. Gap in cylinder bore.

0.0796 to 0.0806 in (2.021 to 2.047 mm) 0.0796 to 0.0806 in (2.021 to 2.047 mm) 0.189 to 0.190 in (4.800 to 4.826 mm) 0.006 to 0.001 1 in (0.015 to 0.027 mm) 0.005, 0.020, 0.040 in (0.127, 0.508, 1.016 mm) 0.077 to 0.078 in (1.955 to 1.981 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0036 in (0.040 to 0.091 mm) 0.012 to 0.023 in (0.304 to 0.584 mm) 0.1865 to 1.875 in (4.737 to 4.762 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 in (0.038 to 0.088 mm) 0.008 to 0.019 in (0.203 to 0.482 mm)

1159 cc engine Piston clearance in cylinder bore. Ring gap in cylinder bore. Ring thickness - top. - second . - scraper. Ring clearance in piston groove - top. - second - scraper Piston size Standard.

0.005 in oversize .. 0.020 in oversize .. 0.040 in oversize .. Gudgeon pin.

1256 cc engine

0.0009 to 0.0014 in (0.022 to 0.035 mm) 0.009 to 0.014 in (0.228 to 0.355 mm) 0.077 to 0.078 in (1.95 to 1.98 mm) 0.077 to 0.078 in (1.95 to 1.98 mm) 0.1865 to 0.1875 in (4.737 to 4.762 mm) 0.0019 to 0.0039 in (0.048 to 0.099 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0026 in (0.040 to 0.066 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 in (0.038 to 0.088 mm) Grade Dimensions 5 3.06085 to 3.061 10 n (77.745 to 77.751 6 3.06110 to 3.06135 n (77.751 to 77.758 7 3.06135 to 3.06160 n (77.758 to 77.764 8 3.06160 to 3.06185 n (77.764 to 77.770 5 3.06585 to 3.06635 n (77.872 to 77.885 8 3.06635 to 3.06685 n (77.885 to 77.897 5 3.08085 to 3.08135 n (78.253 to 78.266 8 3.08135 to 3.08185 n (78.266 to 78.278 5 3.10085 to 3.10135 n (78.761 to 78.774 8 3.10135 to 3.10185 n Semi-floating interference fit in connecting-yod. Bedford complete piston/connecting rod assemblies as spares

Piston sizes and gradings for the 81 mm bore are not given but are available in the same oversizes for reboring

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) only supply

Chapter 1 Ring gap in cylinder bore

21

Engine 0.009 to 0.020 in (0.228 to 0.508 mm)

Connecting rods and big end bearings Bearing type. Bearing material. Connecting rod end float on crank pin. Bearing housing bore. Crank pin diameter — standard. - grade P. Crank pin to bearing clearance.

Shell White metal/lead indium 0.004 to 0.010 in (0.101 to 2.54 mm) 1.8960 to 1.8965 in (48.15 to 48.17 mm) 1.7705 to 1.7712 in (44.97 to 44.98 mm) 1.7605 to 1.7612 in (44.71 to 44.73 mm) 0.0010 to 0.003 in (0.025 to 0.073 mm)

Crankshaft and main bearings Bearing type. Shell Journal diameter — standard. 2.1255 to 2.1260 in (53.98 to 54.00 mm) — grade J. 2.11 55 to 2.11 60 in (53.73 to 53.74 mm) Journal to bearing clearance. 0.001 to 0.002 in (0.025 to 0.063 mm) Crankshaft flange diameter. 2.998 to 3.002 in (76.14 to 76.25 mm) Crankshaft end float..... 0.002 to 0.008 in (0.05 to 0.020 mm) Crankshaft run out. 0.0015 in (0.038 mm) maximum Main bearing housing bore. 2.2835 to 2.2840 in (58.00 to 58.01 mm) Thrust washers - incorporated in the centre main bearing shell (upper half) Note: Some crankshafts vary from standard dimensions, these are marked with a letter P accompanied by a splash of red paint and/or the letter J accompanied by a splash of yellow paint - these markings will be found stamped on the web adjoining the centre main bearing Letters mean: P. J. PJ.

Crankpin diameters vary from standard Main bearing journals vary from standard Crankpin and main bearing journals vary from standard Shells are marked P or J on their backs

Camshaft and bearings Camshaft drive. Bearings. Camshaft journal diameters - 1057 cc engine Front.. Centre. Rear. Camshaft clearance in bearing. Camshaft end float - early models. - later models. Camshaft thrust plate thickness.

Single row endless chain 3 renewable shell type 1.6127 to 1.6132 1.5930 to 1.5935 1.5733 to 1.5738 0.001 to 0.002 in 0.006 to 0.013 in 0.002 to 0.009 in 0.119 to 0.122 in

in (40.96 to 40.97 mm) in (40.46 to 40.47 mm) in (39.96 to 39.97 mm) (0.025 to 0.063 mm) (0.152 to 0.0330 mm) (0.050 to 0.228 mm) (3.02 to 3.09 mm)

Lubrication system Oil pump Drive impeller spindle diameter. Spindle to bush clearance.. Spindle endfloat. Driven impeller spindle diameter. Spindle fit in body (interference). Impellers Teeth backlash. Drive impeller to spindle fit (interference). Driven impeller to spindle fit (interference). Endfloat in body. Radial clearance in body. Drive gear bore diameter — 1057 cc engine. Drive gear bore diameter — 1159 cc and 1256 cc engines Drive gear spindle fit (interference). Oil pressure relief valve - plunger diameter. - plunger to bore fit (clearance). — spring free length. Oil pressure — hot (at 3000 rpm). — pressure switch opens at. Oil capacity - total...,. Oil change capacity. Oil change capacity with new filter element. Oil type/specification .

Torque wrench settings Big-end bearing cap bolts (oiled threads). Main bearing cap bolts (oiled threads). Flywheel bolts. Valve rocker stud adjuster nuts (oiled threads). Cylinder head bolts (using Wellseal jointing compound). Cylinder head bolts (using Hylomar jointing compound). Oil filter. Crankshaft pulley bolt .

0.432 to 0.433 in (10.99 to 11.00 mm) 0.006 to 0.0017 in (0.015 to 0.043 mm) 0.007 to 0.010 in (0.177 to 0.254 mm) 0.4303 to 0.4307 in (10.92 to 10.93 mm) 0.001 to 0.002 in (0.038 to 0.066 mm) 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.101 to 0.203 mm) 0.0009 to 0.002 in (0.022 to 0.053 mm) 0.0003 to 0.0015 in (0.007 to 0.038 mm) 0.002 to 0.005 in (0.050 to 0.127 mm) 0.002 to 0.005 in (0.050 to 0.127 mm) 0.4321 to 0.4325 in (10.975 to 10.985 mm) 0.3221 to 0.4325 in (8.181 to 10.985 mm) 0.0002 to 0.0010 in (0.005 to 0.025 mm) 0.4353 to 0.4358 in (11.05 to 11.06 mm) 0.0012 to 0.0027 in (0.030 to 0.050 mm) 1.92 in (48.76 mm) 35 to 45 lbf/in2 (2.4 to 3.1 bar) 3 to 5 lbf/in2 (0.2 to 0.3 bar) 5.5 pints (Imp) (3.1 litres) 4.5 pints (Imp) (2.5 litres) 5.0 pints (Imp) (2.8 litres) Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 (Duckhams QXR, Flypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil) Ibf ft 25 58 25 3 49 55 14 30

Nm 35 78.6 35 4 66.5 74.5 19 40

22

Chapter 1

Engine 2

1 General description 3 Three engine types have been used in the Bedford HA series of Vehicles. All being of the same basic design, they have progressed in size from the original (1057 cc) 64.5 cu in engine model to the (1159 cc) 70.7 cu in and later (1256 cc) 76.6 cu in engine models. The crankshaft is of three bearing type, the centre main bearing incorporates flanges which act as thrust washers to control crankshaft endfloat. The camshaft is chain driven from the crankshaft and is supported in three bearings. A hydraulic type timing chain tensioner is fitted. The inclined valves operate directly in the cylinder head and are operated by rockers mounted on individual hollow studs, no rocker shaft being used in the arrangement. A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system is used on later models, the hose connecting between the rocker cover and the air cleaner with a branch to a restricted union on the intake manifold. Positive lubrication is provided by an internally mounted, crankcase oil pump, driven from the camshaft. Engine oil is fed through an externally mounted full-flow filter to the engine oil galleries and nozzles as necessary, to ensure complete lubrication. The oil pump lower cover incorporates a pressure relief valve.

2

Major operations possible with engine in vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the vehicle: /

Removal and servicing of the cylinder head.

4 5 6

Removal of the sump - the front suspension assembly must be removed first. Removal of piston/connecting rod assemblies (through top of block) after first withdrawing the sump. Removal of the timing cover, chain and gears after first withdrawing the radiator. Removal of the oil pump (after first withdrawing the sump), see paragraph 2. Renewal of the engine mountings.

3 Major operations only possible after removal of engine from vehicle The following operations can only be carried out after removal of the engine from the car: 1 2 3 4 5

4

Removal Removal Renewal Renewal Removal engine in

of the camshaft. of the tappets (cam followers). of the crankshaft main bearings. of the crankshaft rear oil seal. of the flywheel (can also be achieved by leaving position and withdrawing gearbox - see Chapter 6).

Methods of engine removal

1 The engine complete with gearbox can be lifted as a unit from the engine compartment. Alternatively the engine and gearbox can be split at the front of the bellhousing, the gearbox supported and left in position and the engine removed. Whether or not components like the

Chapter 1 Engine carburettor, manifolds, dynamo and starter are removed first depends to some extent on what work is to be done. 2 The average do-it-yourself owner should be able to remove the engine fairly easily in about 3-J- hours. It is essential to have a good hoist, and two strong axle stands if an inspection pit is not available. Engine removal will be much easier if you have someone to help you. Before beginning work it is worthwhile to get all the accumulated debris cleaned off the engine unit at a service station which is equipped with steam or high pressure air and water cleaning equip¬ ment. It helps to make the job quicker, easier and of course much cleaner. Decide whether you are going to jack up the car and support it on axle stands or raise the front end on wheel ramps. If the latter, run the car up now (and chock the rear wheels) whilst you still have engine power available. Remember that with the front wheels supported on ramps the working height and engine lifting height is going to be increased.

5

Engine — removal with gearbox

1 Open and support the bonnet. To provide better accessibility, the bonnet is best removed and this is described in Chapter 12. On removal place the bonnet out of the way in a safe place where it will not get knocked or damaged. 2 Disconnect the battery leads. 3 Drain the cooling system as given in Chapter 2. 4 Remove the sump drain plug and drain the engine oil into a container with a minimum capacity of 6 pints. 5 There is no gearbox drain plug. As there will certainly be some small spillage from the gearbox rear cover extension later when the propeller shaft comes out, provide another tray-like receptacle with shallow sides to catch any oil which may drip out before the hole can be plugged. (Makeshift oil receptacles can be made from one-gallon oil tins from which one of the large sides has been cut off). 6 Remove the air cleaner assembly from the carburettor as de¬ scribed in Chapter 3. 7 Disconnect the respective coolant (photo) and heater hoses and remove the radiator (see Chapter 2 for full details). 8 Detach the low tension leads from the coil. 9 Remove the cap from the distributor and take the leads from the spark plugs. Remove also the HT lead from the centre terminal of the coil. Two of the plug leads should be detached from the clip secured to the inlet manifold. 10 Disconnect the oil pressure switch sender lead from the sender unit on the engine next to the oil filter. Disconnect also the lead to the water temperature gauge fitted at the forward end of the cylinder head. 11 Disconnect the braided earthing wire which connects the engine to the bodyframe by undoing the nut where it is attached to the timing cover (photo).

5.7 Disconnect and remove the coolant hoses

23

12 Disconnect the choke and accelerator cables from the carburettor as described in Chapter 3. On later models remove the throttle rod retaining clip and spring and detach the throttle rod assembly from the carburettor. 13 Remove the starter motor cable either from the starter motor or at the solenoid switch end. 14 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. This is done by removing the two brass nuts. The nuts may be quite easy to move, in which case an open ended spanner is adequate. If tight, however, a ring, socket or box spanner should be used to avoid the possibility of burring over the flats in the soft metal. Do not attempt to force the pipe flange off the manifold studs at this stage. 15 Remove the fuel line from the suction side of the fuel pump (Chapter 3) (photo). 16 From inside the vehicle remove the knob from the gear change lever by slackening the locknut underneath it and screwing it off. Lift off the rubber grommet from around the base of the lever. 17 Through a hole in the floor tunnel another rubber cover can be seen round the lever at its base. This covers the screw cap which holds the gear lever in position in the gearbox extension tube. Grip the rubber cover with the cap underneath it and unscrew it. On some later models this cover is removed by pressing downwards and rotating it anti-clockwise in a similar manner to removing a bulb. 18 When the cap is unscrewed the gear lever complete with cap, spring and retaining plate may be lifted out.

5.11 Disconnect the oil pressure switch lead (1) and the engine earth cable (2)

5.15 Disconnect and remove fuel line

24

Chapter 1

1 9 Work may now start on disconnecting the various necessary items under the car. If it has not already been raised on wheel ramps jack the vehicle up at the front so as to give sufficient working clearance underneath and support it on proper stands or blocks. Position the stands under the front crossmember braces where they run back to the bodyframe. Under no circumstances use odd tins, the vehicle jack or other makeshift devices to support the car - it is foolishly dangerous. 20 Undo the knurled screw on the end of the speedometer drive cable where it goes into the gearbox casing at the rear on the right hand side. Take care not to lose the oil seal disc after the cable is removed (photo). 21 Remove the clutch operating cable from the clutch operating lever and bellhousing as described in Chapter 5. 22 Unhook the clutch lever return spring. 23 Remove the nut and large washer from the centre of the crossmember, support the gearbox by the rear cover (Chapter 6). 24 The gearbox should next be supported just forward of the crossmember by a jack or blocks. 25 Now unscrew and detach the engine mounting retaining nuts each side. 26 Because the engine/gearbox are being taken out of the vehicle together they will have to be tilted to a very steep angle. It is easier, therefore, if the sling for lifting is only a single loop to facilitate tilting the unit. The sling should pass BEHIND (ie the gearbox side) the engine mounting brackets. These, being still attached to the engine, will provide the main lifting lugs. 27 When the mounting bolts have been removed, set the sling so that the lifting hook of the hoist is as close to the engine as possible. A lift of at least 3 feet will be necessary to enable the unit to come out clear of the body (photo). 28 When the weight has been taken by the sling, draw the engine forward and up at the front. 29 Prepare for the disengagement of the propeller shaft which will come off the splines at the rear of the gearbox. If you are short handed put something soft on the floor to absorb the shock as it drops, and provide a tray to catch the oil which will drain from the gearbox as soon as the prop shaft comes out. 30 Once the rear of the gearbox is clear it is then simply a question of raising and tilting the unit until it is finally completely clear of the vehicle. 31 At all times ensure that the sling is secure and not straining against any ancillary parts on the engine which could be damaged.

6

5.20 Detach the speedometer cable from the gearbox

Engine - removal without gearbox

1 Complete the instructions given in Section 5, paragraphs 1 to 22 omitting paragraphs 5 and 20. 2 Remove the bolts securing the engine to the gearbox bellhousing. Some of these are accessible from above and others from below. 3 Remove the lower bellhousing inspection plate. Two of the attachment bolts locate the starter motor and this can also be withdrawn when free (photo). 4 Unscrew and remove the two engine mounting bolts each side. 5 Now support the engine in a sling. As it does not come out at such an acute angle as with the gearbox attached, it requires support. Make sure the hoist hook is as close to the engine as possible when slung, in order to provide maximum lift. 6 Support the gearbox forward of the crossmember by a jack or block. Otherwise, when the engine is drawn away, the full weight of the gearbox will try and pivot forward, imposing a severe strain on the rear mounting. 7 Lift the engine a little and draw it forward so that the clutch is drawn off the gearbox input shaft splines. It is important not to raise or tilt the engine until it is clear, otherwise serious damage could be caused to either the shaft, clutch mechanism or both. 8 Once clear the engine can be lifted up and away.

7

Engine

Engine dismantling - general

1 Not many owners will have a ready made engine stand at their disposal and they will therefore have to use an area of the workbench or failing this the floor. The work area should be large enough to allow engine dismantling and the respective components to be laid out for

5.27 Engine/gearbox removal from vehicle

Chapter 1 cleaning and inspection. If the floor is the only possible place, try and ensure that the engine rests on a hardwood platform or similar rather than concrete (or beaten earth). 2 Before dismantling, spend some time on cleaning the unit. If you have been wise this will have been done before the engine was removed, at a service bay. A good water soluble degreaser will help to 'float' off caked dirt/grease under a water jet. Once the exterior is clean, dismantling may begin. As parts are removed clean them in petrol or paraffin. Do not immerse parts with oilways in paraffin clean them with an oil and grease solvent and clear out the oilways with a piece of wire. If an air line is available so much the better for final cleaning off. Paraffin, which could possibly remain in oilways would dilute the oil for initial lubrication after reassembly. 3 Where components are fitted with seals and gaskets it is always best to fit new ones - but do not throw the old ones away until you have the new ones to hand. A pattern is then available if they have to be specially made. Hang them on a convenient hook. 4 In general it is best to work from the top of the engine downwards. In any case support the engine firmly so that it does not topple over when you are undoing stubborn nuts and bolts. 5 Always place nuts and bolts back together in their components or place of attachment if possible - it saves so much confusion later. Otherwise put them in small, separate pots or jars so that their groups are easily identified.

8

25

Engine

0/7 filter and cover 4

a)

b)

-

removal

Undo the centre bolt holding the cover to the side of the crankcase and pull off the cover. An allowance must be made for a certain amount of oil spillage so position a suitable container underneath during removal, Discard the filter element and remove the sealing from the groove in the crankcase.

Inlet manifold

-

removal

5 Unscrew the two holding bolts, one at each end of the manifold, and with a socket wrench unscrew the third bolt located inside the intake orifice (photo). 6 If not already removed, detach and withdraw the exhaust manifold as given in Section 6.

Engine front mounting brackets

-

removal

7 Each bracket is held to the block by three bolts. These bolts have been sealed in, so will require considerable torque to turn them. Do not use anything other than a ring or socket spanner to remove them. Note which side of the engine each bracket comes from as they are not interchangeable. The brackets may be removed if necessary, with the engine still in place. The engine should be supported underneath and the bolts securing them to the engine and frame removed. In this way the flexible mountings may also be renewed.

Engine dismantling - ancillary components removal

1 If you are obtaining a factory replacement reconditioned engine, all ancillaries must come off first - just as they will if you are doing a thorough engine inspection/overhaul yourself. These are: Dynamo or alternator Distributor Thermostat and cover Oil filter and cover Carburettor Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold Water pump Fuel pump Engine mounting brackets Spark plugs Ignition coil

(Chapter (Chapter (Chapter (Section (Chapter (Chapter (Chapter (Chapter (Chapter (ection (Chapter (Chapter

10) 4) 2) 23, Chapter 1) 3) 3) 3) 2) 3) 7) 4) 4)

2 If you are obtaining what is called a 'short engine' (or sometimes 'half-engine') comprising cylinder block, crankcase, crankshaft, pistons, and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head, flywheel, sump and oil pump will need removal also. 3 Remove all the ancillaries according to the removal and instruc¬ tions for them described in the Chapters and Sections as indicated in paragraph 1.

8.4 Oil filter and central retaining bolt

8.5 Inlet manifold retaining bolt within the intake orifice

9

Cylinder head removal - engine out of vehicle

1 Position the engine on a bench (or floor) with the cylinder head uppermost. 2 Remove the four screws holding the rocker cover and lift it off together with the cork sealing gasket which may be re-used if it is not over compressed or damaged. 3 Remove the carburettor (Chapter 3). The inlet and exhaust manifolds may be removed but it is not essential. 4 Slacken off the rocker clearance adjusting nuts (in the centre of each rocker arm) just enough (2-3 turns) to permit each rocker to be swung aside when the valve is closed so that the pushrods may be lifted out. The crankshaft will need rotating to do this. If it is intended to remove the valves anyway in due course, then it will save time if the rocker arms are removed completely at this stage. 5 Put the pushrods into a piece of pierced cardboard so that each can be identified to its relative valve. 6 Slacken off the ten cylinder head holding down bolts in the reverse order of tightening sequence. 7 The cylinder head should now lift off easily. If not, try turning the engine over by the flywheel (with the spark plugs in position) so that compression in the cylinders can force it upwards. A few smart taps with a soft headed mallet or wood cushioned hammer may also be needed. Under no circumstances whatsoever try to prise the head off by forcing a lever of any sort into the joint. This can cause damage to the machined surfaces of the block and cylinder head.

26

Chapter 1

Engine 8 Disconnect the accelerator linkage. 9 Disconnect the 'Lucar' connector for the lead from the water temperature gauge sender unit in the cylinder head. 10 Remove the distributor cap complete with the plug leads and coil which should be disconnected at the plugs and coil respectively. 11 Proceed as for removing the head with the engine out of the vehicle (Section 9). If the engine needs turning to assist in breaking the joint, reconnect the battery leads and give the engine a quick turn with the starter motor.

11 Valve rocker arms - removal 1 The rocker arms can be removed as soon as the rocker cover is off. Each arm is located on a stud and is lightly supported on the stud by an inverted cone shaped coil spring. The vertical location of each rocker arm is controlled by a hemispherical ball on which the rocker pivots, and which is held in position by a self-locking nut. 2 When the nut is removed the rocker can be lifted off, followed by the spring and washer at the base of the stud.

12 Valves - removal from the cylinder head

Fig. 1.2 The cylinder head and associate components (Sec 9) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Cylinder head Core plug Core plugs Oil hole plug Water plug Rocker studs Cylinder head bolt Hong) Cylinder head bolt (short) Water distribution tube Cylinder head gasket Exhaust valve Inlet valve Valve spring Retainer

15 Split collets 16 Valve stem oil seal (inlet only) — 1256 cc engine 17 Rocker 18 Rocker ball 19 Rocker nut 20 Rocker spring 21 Rocker cover

1 Remove the cylinder head (Sections 9 and 10). 2 Remove all the rocker arms. 3 The valves are located by a collar on a compressed spring which grips two colletts (or a split collar) into a groove in the stem of the valve. The spring must be compressed with a valve spring compressor in order to release the colletts and then the valve. Place the specially shaped end of the compressor over the spring collar with the end of the screw squarely on the face of the valve. Screw up the clamp to compress the spring and expose the colletts on the valve stem. Sometimes the spring collar sticks and the clamp screw cannot be turned. In such instances, with the clamp pressure still on, give the head of the clamp (over the spring) a tap with a hammer, at the same time gripping the clamp frame firmly to prevent it slipping off the valve. Take off the two collets, release the clamp, and the collar and spring can be lifted out. The valve can then be pushed out through its guide and removed. Pull off the seal and clip. If the end of the valve sticks at the guide when removing it, it is due to burring. Carefully grind off the corner of the stem to permit it to pass through the guide. If you force it through it will score the guide way. Make sure that each valve is kept in a way that its position is known for replacement. Unless new valves are to be fitted each valve must go back where it came from. The springs, collars and collets should also be kept with their respective valves. A piece of card with eight holes punched in it is a good way to keep the valves in order.

22 Breather pipe connection 23 24 25 26

Gasket Cover screw Push-rod Tappet (cam follower)

10 Cylinder head removal - engine in vehicle 1 Before proceeding as described in Section 9 it is first of all necessary to carry out the following, including the removal of the parts as stated: 2 Disconnect both battery leads. 3 Drain the cooling system. 4 Remove the hoses from the water pump. ^ 5 Remove the carburettor air cleaner unit. 6 Disconnect the vacuum advance suction pipe from both the carburettor and distributor, unclip it from the fuel feed pipe and take it off. 7 Disconnect the fuel feed pipe by unscrewing the union at the carburettor. To move the pipe out of the way slacken one of the two clips on the flexible connection at the fuel pump and turn the pipe away. Try and avoid bending the pipe.

13 Sump — removal The engine must be out of vehicle in order to remove the sump, unless you wish to remove the front suspension and axle assembly which we do not recommend. With the engine out, it is better to wait until the cylinder head is removed. Then invert the engine and undo the set screws holding the sump to the crankcase and lift Ft off. If the cylinder head is not being removed (for example if the oil pump only is being removed) the engine should be placed on its side and the sump removed as described.

14 Oil pump and oil filter - removal 1 With the sump removed (see previous Section), disconnect the oil intake pipe suppot from the main bearing cap. 2 Unscrew and remove the oil pump securing bolts and withdraw the pump from its engagement with the camshaft drive gear. .,

T^e,.f'1 fi,lter is

removed by unscrewing the centre bolt As

occur' (Photo S^a1 2 3 4 5 6 7)5 W'thdraWn' the loSS ohoil traPPed within * w 4 Discard the internal filter element. The new element will be supplied complete with new sealing rings.

r

27

Fig. 1.3 The sump, oil pump and filter assemblies (Sec 13) t 2 3 4 5

v

6 7 8 9

OH pump body Pump gears - driven Pump drive gear and spindle Pump gear - driving Pump cover and relief valve assembly Pressure relief valve Spring Retaining plug Plug

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Reservoir tube Bolt - cover to body Washer Strainer Strainer gauze Strainer pipe union Pump to crankcase gasket Pump mounting bolt Pump mounting bolt Washer Clip

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Bolt Washer Screw Nut Oil pressure switch Sump Drain plug Drain plug washer Sump gasket Sump screw washer Speedo cable dip

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Clutch cable dip Screw Washer Rear bearing cap to sump gasket Filter element and bowl Element and washer Washer Oil filler cap Dipstick

j

28

Chapter 1

15 Crankshaft pulley, timing cover, sprockets and chain removal 1 The timing gear is accessible with the engine in the car but unless the sump, and, therefore, the front axle are removed first, the sump gasket will have to be broken and a section replaced. This is not ideal but can be done with careful attention to the re-sealing of the timing case lower end to the sump, on replacement. It will be necessary to remove the radiator and the fan belt as described in Chapter 2. Then undo the four set screws at the front end of the sump which locate into the lower edge of the timing case. Then proceed as described hereafter.

Engine 2 First remove the large bolt which holds the fan belt driving pulley to the crankshaft. It will be necessary to prevent the crankshaft from turning, by locking the flywheel with a bar in the starter ring teeth against one of the dowel pegs in the end of the crankcase. 3 Another way is to block one of the crankshaft journals with a piece of wood against the side of the crankcase. With the engine in the car, the pulley may also be removed. Put the car in gear while undoing the bolt. 4 Remove the spring washer and pulley washer. The pulley is keyed onto a straight shaft and should pull off easily. If not, lever it off with two screwdrivers at 180° to each other. 5 Take care not to damage either the pulley flange or the timing case cover which is made only of light alloy. Do not lose the Woodruff key

Fig. 1.4 Cylinder block and associate components (1256 cc engine) (Sec 15) 7 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Piston Gudgeon pin Piston rings Connecting rod and big-end cap Big-end bolt Core plugs Core plugs Camshaft rear plug OH gallery Oil gallery Oil hole plug Camshaft front bearing Front main bearing cap

14 15 16 77 18 79 20 27 22 23 24 25 26 27

Centre main bearing cap Rear main bearing cap Main bearing cap bolt Lockwasher Cylinder block drain plug Shim Shim ^ Shim Engine earth strap Bolt Lockwasher Main bearing shells Big-end bearing shells Camshaft

28 Camshaft thrust plate 29 Bolt 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41

Camshaft sprocket Dowel Camshaft sprocket Washer Timing chain Timing cover Timing co ver oil seal Timing cover plug Tensioner body Button Tensioner pad assembly Gasket

42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 5.1 52 53 54

Bolt Bolt Bolt Oil nozzle Crankshaft Flywheel dowel Input shaft spigot bush Crankshaft rear oil seal Crankshaft spocket Woodruff key Crankshaft pulley Bolt, Washer

Chapter 1 from the shaft - check that it fits tightly, and if not get another one, or make one from a piece of mild steel, that is a tight fit in the shaft and the keyway of the pulley boss. 6 On earlier models fitted with a manually adjusted timing chain tensioner, slacken off the tensioner by turning the square head screw clockwise as far as it will go, to release the adjuster pad from the chain. 7 Remove the timing case retaining bolts and carefully withdraw the cover. 8 Pull the chain tensioner unit from its location peg. On later models, fitted with the automatic chain tensioner, hold the tensioner pad in the fully depressed state and withdraw the chain tensioner unit from its location. 9 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt, and then withdraw the sprocket complete with chain, at the same time removing the chain from the crankshaft sprocket. The crankshaft sprocket is best removed in unison with the chain and camshaft sprocket, then separated. The sprockets are a push fit onto their respective shafts. Do pot lose the Woodruff keys, and if they are loose, check for fit.

16 Pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings - removal 1 As it is necessary to remove the cylinder head and the sump from the engine in order to remove pistons and connecting rods, the removal of the engine is the logical thing to do first. With the engine on the bench and the cylinder head and sump removed, stand the block inverted (with crankshaft uppermost). 2 Each connecting rod and its bearing cap is matched, and held by two high tensile steel bolts. Before anything else, mark each connect¬ ing rod and caps with its cylinder number and relationship - preferably with the appropriate number of dabs of paint. Using punch or file marks may be satisfactory, but it has been known for tools to slip - or the marks even to cause metal fatigue in the connecting rod. Once marked, undo the bearing cap bolts using a good quality socket spanner. Lift off each bearing cap and put it in a safe place. Carefully turn the engine on its side. Each piston can now be pushed out from the block by its connecting rod. Note that if the pistons are standard, there is a small notch in each which indicates the side of the piston towards the front of the engine. If there is no such notch, clean a small area on the front of each piston crown and place an indicative dab of paint. Do not use a punch, or file marks, on the pistons under any circumstances. The shell bearings in the connecting rods and caps can be removed simply by pressing the edge of the end opposite the notch in the shell and they will slide round to be lifted out. Note from where each comes.

17 Gudgeon pins The gudgeon pins float in the piston and are an interference fit in the connecting rods. This 'interference fit' between gudgeon pin and connecting rod, means that heat is required (230 - 260°C) before a pin can be satisfactorily replaced in the connecting rod. If it is, therefore, necessary to replace either the piston or connecting rod, we strongly recommend that the assembly of the two be entrusted to someone with experience. Misapplied heat can ruin one, or all, of the components very easily (General Motors now supply pistons and connecting rods separately).

18 Piston rings - removal Unless new rings are to be fitted for certain, care has to be taken that rings are not broken on removal. Starting with the top ring (all rings are to be removed from the top of the piston) ease one end out of its groove and place a piece of steel band (shim or an old feeler gauge blade) behind it. Then move the metal strip carefully round behind the ring, at the same time nudging the ring'upwards so that it rests on the surface of the piston above, until the whole ring is clear and can be slid off. With the second and third rings which must also come off the top, arrange the strip of metal to carry them over the other grooves. Note where each ring has come from (pierce a piece of paper with each ring showing 'top 1', 'middle V etc).

Engine

29

19 Camshaft and tappets - removal 1 Remove the engine from the car. 2 Remove the sump, timing gear cover, timing chain and sprockets, oil pump and distributor. 3 Slacken all the rocker arm nuts sufficiently to allow withdrawal of the pushrods. 4 Remove the fuel pump. 5 If the cylinder head has been removed stand the engine inverted - if not lie it on its right-hand side and rotate the camshaft several times to push the tappets out of the way. 6 Undo the two bolts retaining the thrust plate and slide the thrust plate out. 7 The camshaft can now be drawn out, and care must be taken that it is manoeuvred past the tappets without damage to either the cams or the tappets. This will be easy if the engine is completely inverted. If, however, it is lying on its side with the tappets in such a position that they could fall out under their own weight, more care is necessary. In that event it would be advisable to prop the engine so that the tappets cannot fall out of their bores. Take care also not to damage the camshaft bearings with the edges of the cams as the shaft is withdrawn. 8 With the camshaft removed, simply lift out the tappets and place them so that they can be returned similarly. An egg box is a useful container for this.

20 Flywheel - removal 1 The flywheel can be removed with the engine in the car if the gearbox is first withdrawn but it is not recommended, and the following procedures prevail when the engine has been lifted out: 2 Remove the clutch assembly (Chapter 5). 3 Remove the four bolts from the centre of the flywheel. There are no washers as the bolts are locked with a sealing compound. 4 Using a soft headed mallet, tap the periphery of the flywheel progressively all round, gradually drawing it off the crankshaft flange and locating dowel. Do not allow it to assume a skew angle as the fit on the flange and dowel are at very close tolerances to maintain proper balance and concentricity with the crankshaft. When the flywheel is nearly off make sure it is well supported so that it does not drop.

21 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal 1 With the engine removed from the car, remove the sump, oil pump, timing chain and sprockets, and flywheel. If the cylinder head is also removed so much the better as the engine can be stood firmly in an inverted position. 2 Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. This will already have been done if the pistons are removed. 3 Using a good quality socket wrench, remove the two cap bolts from each of the three main bearing caps. 4 Lift off each cap carefully noting its position. Each one is different in shape.

22 Engine lubrication system - description A forced feed system of lubrication is used, with oil circulated to all the engine bearing surfaces under pressure by a pump which draws oil from the sump under the crankcase. The oil is first pumped through a full flow oil filter (which means that all oil is passed through the filter. A bypass oil filter is one through which only part of the oil in circulation passes). From the filter, oil flows into a main oil gallery - which is cast integrally into the cylinder block. From this gallery, oil is fed via oilways in the block to the crankshaft main bearings, and then from the main bearings along oilways in the crankshaft to the connecting rod bearings. From the same gallery, oilways carry the oil to the camshaft bearings. From the centre camshaft bearing a further oilway passes oil to a gallery in the cylinder head. This gallery delivers oil through the hollow rocker mounting studs to lubricate the rocker pivots. The tappets are

30

Chapter 1

Engine

24 Crankcase ventilation system (1256 cc engine) 1 This comprises a hose connected between the rocker cover and the air cleaner with a branch pipe running to a restrictor valve screwed into the intake manifold. 2 Occasionally examine the condition and security of the hoses and periodically disconnect them and clean them out, removing any sludge or congealed oil. 3 Examine the general condition of the restrictor/ventilation valve in the intake manifold for signs of deterioration in the spring or valve seat. Renew the unit if necessary. It is most important that the valve operates correctly and does not leak. 4 Occasionally clean the oil filter (breather cap on the rocker cover). 'In-

Fig. 1.5 The engine lubrication circuit (Sec 22) lubricated by oil returning from the rocker gear via the pushrods and which is not under pressure. Once oil has passed through the bearings and out, it finds it own way by gravity back to the sump. If the filter gets blocked, oil will continue to flow because a pressure relief valve will open, permitting oil to circulate past the filter element. Similarly, a blockage in oilways (resulting in greatly increased pressure) will cause the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump to operate, returning oil direct to the sump. Oil pressure is measured after oil has passed through the filter. As the oil pressure warning light only comes on when the pressure is as low as 3 - 5 Ibs/sq in it is most important that the filter element is regularly changed, and the oil changed at the recommended intervals, in order that the lubrication system remains clean. Should the warning light ever come on when the engine is running at any speed above idling, stop at once and investigate - serious bearing and cylinder damage may otherwise result. The crankcase is ventilated to prevent pressure building up from the action of the pistons and also to cause oil, and sometimes fuel, vapour to be carried away. Air enters via an oil wetted gauze filter at the dipstick hole, and crankcase fumes are extracted via a pipe from the rocker cover into the air cleaner. From here it passes into the combustion chamber with the fuel/air mixture. 25 Examination and renovation - general 23 Oil filter - renewal of element 1 Remove the filter casing as described in Section 8. 2 Clean out the interior of the bowl with paraffin ensuring that any sludge deposits are wiped out. 3 A new sealing ring will be supplied with the new element, and this should be carefully fitted into the groove in the block. Do not stretch the ring by forcing one part into the groove and pressing the rest in afterwards, otherwise it will not seat properly - it will remain stretched. Get the whole ring into the groove at once and carefully bed it down with a small screwdriver, ensuring that it does not twist and jam across the groove. Lightly smear the seal ring face with clean engine oil. 4 Put the new element in the bowl, place the bowl into the groove and screw up the centre bolt. Before the cover is quite tight, revolve it to ensure it is bedded into the sealing ring. Check the seating for leaks at the first opportunity, by running the engine.

1 With the engine now completely stripped, clean all components and examine everything for wear. Each part should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated as described in the followinq Sections. 2 To measure the various components for wear you will require a suitable micrometer and/or vernier gauge and a set of feeler gauges. If these items are not readily available, then the components concerned should be inspected by your General Motors dealer or local automotive machine shop for an assessment of any renovations or replacements necessary.

26 Oil pump - examination and renovation 1 If the oil pump is worn it is best to purchase an exchanqe reconditioned unit, as to rebuild the oil pump is a job that calls for engineering shop facilities.

Chapter 1

26.3a Measuring oil pump clearance between gearwheels

31

Engine

FLUSH WITH IMPELLER Fig. 1.7 Cross section of the oil pump unit. Check the drivegear to pump body clearance where indicated (Sec 26) 2 To check if the pump is still serviceable, first check if there is any slackness in the spindle bushes, and then remove the bottom cover held by two bolts. 3 Check the two gears (the impellers) and the inside of the pump body for wear, with the aid of a feeler gauge. Measure the backlash between the gearwheels (blade inserted between the sides of the teeth that are meshed together), the gearwheels radial clearance (blade inserted between the end of the gearwheel teeth and the inside of the body), and the gearwheel end clearance (place a straight edge across the bottom flange of the pump body and measure with the feeler blades the gap between the straight edge and the sides of the gearwheel). 4 Compare the respective backlash and clearance readings taken, with those given in the Specifications Section at the start of this Chapter. If the pump is worn beyond the wear limits renew the complete unit. 27 Crankshaft - examination and renovation

26.3b Measuring oil pump gearwheel radial clearance

26.3c Measuring oil pump gearwheel end clearance

1 Examine all the crankpins and main bearing journals for signs of scoring or scratches. If all surfaces are undamaged check next that all the bearing journals are round. This can be done with a micrometer or caliper gauge, taking readings across the diameter at 6 or 7 points for each journal (photo). If you do not own or know how to use a

27.1 Measuring a crankshaft journal with a micrometer

32

Chapter 1

micrometer, take the crankshaft to your local engineering works and ask them to measure it for you. 2 If the crankshaft is ridged or scored it must be reground. If the ovality exceeds 0.002 in on measurement, but there are no signs of scoring or scratching on the surfaces, regrinding may be necessary. It would be advisable to ask the advice of the engineering works to whom you would entrust the work of regrinding in such instances. 3 The crankshaft can be reground to a maximum of 0.040 in (1.016 mm) undersize, but your General Motors dealer will decide how much is required and supply the matching undersize main and big-end shell bearings. 4 When the crankshaft is installed the main bearing running clearances should be checked to ensure that they comply with the specified clearance, and the big-end bearings should be similarly checked. These tolerances can only be checked using a proprietary product such as 'Plastigage' and it is usually assumed that where the reconditioning has been carried out by a reliable company that the running clearances will be correct. 5 Crankshaft endfloat, with main bearing caps fully tightened, should be between 0.002 and 0.008 in (0.05 and 0.20 mm). The endfloat is controlled by the thrust flanges on the centre main bearing shells. 6 If the gearbox input shaft spigot bush needs renewal, extract it by tapping a thread in it. The new bush requires no lubrication. 7 Whether or not the crankshaft has been reground, a check should be made to ensure that the oilways to and from each journal are clear. Do this by injecting oil through each oil hole in turn and ensure that it comes through the next hole in the line. Keep injecting oil until clean oil emerges. Any blockage must be cleared. 8 If the spigot bush is worn, it must be removed from the rear of the crankshaft (using GM special tool DRAG Z. 8527 if available) and renewed. The new bearing must be soaked in engine oil overnight before fitting. When fitted, the bearing should be 0.10 in (2.54 mm) from the end face of the shaft.

28 Big-end (connecting rod) and crankshaft main bearings examination and renovation 1 Big-end bearing failure is normally indicated by a pronounced knocking from the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearing failure is normally accompanied by vibration, which can be quite severe at high engine speeds, and a more significant drop in oil pressure. 2 The shell bearing surfaces should be matt grey in colour with no signs of pitting or scoring. 3 Replacement shell bearings are supplied in a series of thicknesses, dependent on the degree of regrinding that the crankshaft requires, which is done in multiples of 0.010 in (0.254 mm). So depending on how much it is necessary to grind off, bearing shells are supplied as 0.010 in (0.254 mm) undersize and so on. The engineering works regrinding the crankshaft will normally supply the correct shells with the reground crank. 4 Make sure that bearing shells renewed are standard dimensions if the crankshaft has not been reground. It should be noted that on later models the centre main bearing shells, both upper and lower bearing halves, are flanged. On earlier models only the upper half was flanged to give the necessary crankshaft end float. The later type bearings can be fitted to earlier type engines if required, the end float requirement remaining the same.

Engine is more than 0.008 in (0.2032 mm), then it will be necessary to fit special pistons and rings or have the cylinders rebored and fit oversize pistons. 3 If the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn as to justify reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted which will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil. Several different types are available, and the manufacturer's instruc¬ tions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. 4 If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have not been reground, it is essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a chance to bed in properly. If possible, have the ridge professionally removed from each bore. 5 Examine the crankcase for cracks and leaking core plugs. To renew a core plug, drill a hole in its centre and tap a thread in it. Screw in a bolt and using a distance piece, tighten the bolt and extract the core plug. When installing the new plug, smear its outer edge with gasket cement. 6 Probe oil galleries and waterways with a piece of wire to make sure that they are quite clear.

30 Pistons and rings - examination and renovation 1 Examine the pistons (with the rings removed, as described in Section 18) for signs of damage on the crown and around the top edge. If any of the piston rings have broken there could be quite noticeable damage to the grooves, in which case the piston must be renewed. Deep scores in the piston walls also call for renewal. If the cylinders are being rebored new oversize pistons and rings will be needed anyway. If the cylinders do not need re-boring and the pistons are in good condition only the rings need to be checked. 2 To check the existing rings, place them in the cylinder bore and press each one down in turn to the bottom of the stroke. In this case a distance of 2± in from the top of the cylinder will be satisfactory. Use an inverted piston to press them down square. With a feeler gauge measure the gap for each ring which should be as given in the specifications at the beginning of this chapter. If the gap is too large, the rings will need renewal. 3 Check also that each ring gives a clearance in the piston groove according to specifications. If the gap is too great, new pistons and rings will be needed if Bedford spares are used. However, independent specialist producers of pistons and rings can normally provide the rings required separately. If new Bedford pistons and rings are being obtained it will be necessary to have the ridge ground away from the top of each cylinder bore. If specialist oil control rings are being obtained from an independent supplier the ridge removal will not be

29 Cylinder block and crankcase - examination and renovation 1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn a very slight ridge will be found oh1 2 the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements

Fig. 1.8 The oil control (scraper) ring fitment must be as shown (Sec 30) Space piston ring gaps at equidistant points so that the gaps are not in alignment. Make sure that the endsxA and B of the bottom oil control ring spacer do not overlap, but are engaged with each other as shown. Ensure that the rail ends C do not align with the gap of the spacer.

Chapter 1 necessary as the top rings will be stepped to provide the necessary clearance. If the top ring of a new set is not stepped it will hit the ridge made by the former ring and break. 4 If new pistons are obtained the rings will be included, so it must be emphasised that the top ring be stepped if fitted to an un-ground bore (or un-deridged bore). 5 The new rings should be placed in the bores as described in paragraph 2, and the gap checked. Any gaps which are too small should be increased by filing one end of the ring with a fine file. Be careful not to break the ring as they are brittle (and expensive). On no account make the gap less than specification. If the gap should close when under normal operating temperatures the ring will break. 6 The groove clearance of new rings in old pistons should be within the specified tolerances. If it is not enough, the rings could stick in the piston grooves causing loss of compression. The piston grooves in this case will need machining out to accept the new rings. 7 If the pistons are to be renewed to suit a rebored cylinder block, then this is a job best left to your General Motors dealer as the gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small end and precise heating of the connecting rod and the use of a press and installation tool are required to carry out the operation successfully. 8 Before refitting the piston and connecting rods, get the rods checked for correct alignment. Where new pistons and/or gudgeon pins are fitted, this check should be made anyway by the firm to whom the fitting has been entrusted. 9 When correctly assembled, the notch on the piston crown should be in alignment with the numbering on the connecting rod.

31

Camshaft and tappets - examination and renovation

1 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces, cam lobes and gearteeth for wear or scoring. Renew the shaft if evident. 2 The camshaft bearings can be renewed, if worn, in the following way. 3 Obtain a piece of tubing, slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing outer diameter. Drive out the bearings towards the rear, noting in the case of the rear one that the expansion plug seal will be ejected. 4 Install the new bearings so that their oil holes coincide with the oilways in the cylinder block. The notch in each bearing must face the front of the engine and face away from the crankshaft. 5 Install a new expansion plug at the back of the rear bearing, having first coated its outside edge with jointing compound. 6 The bearings are finished to size and require no reaming.

33

Engine

7 Examine the bearing surfaces of the tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any indentations in these surfaces or any cracks indicate serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. Thoroughly clean them out, removing all traces of sludge. It is most unlikely that the sides of the tappets will prove worn, but, if they are a very loose fit in their bores and can readily be rocked, they should be exchanged for new units. It is very unusual to find any wear in the tappets, and any wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages, or in cases of neglect.

32 Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and renovation 1 Examine the teeth of both sprockets for wear. Each tooth is the shape of an inverted 'V' and if the driving (or driven) side is concave in shape, the tooth is worn and the sprocket should be replaced. The chain should also be replaced if the sprocket teeth are worn or if the tensioner adjustment is fully taken up. It is sensible practice to replace the chain anyway. 2 The tensioner is mounted in the timing case cover and consists of a screw which presses a shoe against the chain. If the shoe is badly ridged or worn it should be renewed. 3 Later production models are fitted with an automatic tensioning device mounted on the oiling stud. It is held on the stud by the pressure of the timing chain cover against the rubber plug in the body of the unit. It is prevented from rotating by butting up to two extensions of the camshaft thrust plate which is also modified to suit. The principal is that the tensioner is spring loaded against the chain and as it moves out to take up slack, is located by means of a piston with a spiral notched groove holding against a lug in the bore of the tensioner sleeve. Spares of the old model device are no longer made so it will be necessary to convert to the automatic device if renewing the assembly. In addition to the device itself a modified camshaft thrust plate and a sealing plug for the cover are included in the conversion kit. 4 If fitting the later type camshaft thrust plate, note that it is thicker in section and the camshaft end float requirement is therefore reduced and should be as per the late model types (0.002 to 0.009 in end float). 5 The timing chain oil nozzle acts as a mounting for the chain tensioner. If there is any excessive movement of the tensioner on the nozzle, remove the nozzle and install a new one (interference fit) in the cylinder block.

N

PAD

LOCK SPRING

SEAL RINGS Fig. 1.10 The later type timing chain tensioner components (Sec 32)

Fig. 1.9 The early type timing chain tensioner and components (Sec 32)

7 2

Tensioner pad and sleeve Spring

3 4

Grooved piston Body

Arrow indicates lug which engages in teeth of piston groove to prevent retraction of tensioner

V,

___y

34

Chapter 1

33 Flywheel and starter ring - examination and renovation 1 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new one. 2 Either split the ring with a cold chisel after making a cut with a hacksaw blade between two teeth (use only this method on later models), or use a soft headed hammer (not steel) to knock the ring off, striking it evenly and alternately, at equally spaced points. Take great care not to damage the flywheel during this process. 3 Clean and polish with emery cloth four evenly spaced areas on the outside face of the new starter ring. 4 Heat the ring evenly with a flame until the polished portions turn dark blue. Alternatively heat the ring in a bath of oil to a temperature of 200°C. (If a naked flame is used take careful fire precautions). Hold the ring at this temperature for five minutes and then quickly fit in to the flywheel so the chamfered portion of the teeth faces of the gearbox side of the flywheel. Wipe all oil off the ring before fitting it. 5 The ring should be tapped gently down onto its register and left to cool naturally when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. Great care must be taken not to overheat the ring, indicated by it turning light metallic blue, as if this happens the temper of the ring will be lost. 6 On later models the ring gear seating location on the periphery of the flywheel is recessed, but the fitting procedures are otherwise the same.

34 Valve rocker arms and pushrods - examination and renovation 1 Each rocker arm has three wearing surfaces, namely, the pushrod recess, the valve stem contact, and the centre pivot recess. If any of these surfaces appears severely grooves or worn the arm should be replaced. If only the valve stem contact area is worn, it is possible to clean it up with a fine stone. 2 If the rocker ball is pitted, or has flats worn in it, this should also be replaced. 3 The nut is a self-locking type on the stud. If it has been removed or adjusted many times, the self-locking ring may have become ineffective and the nut may be slack enough to turn involuntarily and alter the tappet clearance. If the tightening torque is less than the specified 3lb/ft minimum new nuts should be fitted. 4 The rocker studs should be examined to ensure that the threads are undamaged and that the oil delivery hole in the side of the stud at the base of the thread is clear. Place a straight edge along the top of all the studs to ensure that none is standing higher than the rest. If any are, it means that they come out of the head some distance. They should be removed and replaced with an oversize stud. As this involves reaming out the stud hole in the head, you should seek professional advice and assistance to ensure that the new oversize stud is securely fitted at the correct angle. 5 Any pushrods which are bent should be renewed. On no account attempt to straighten them.

Engine

35 Cylinder head - decarbonisation 1 This can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car. With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a wire brush and blunt scraper all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel blade, or a similar article. 2 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block, then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other* two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. 3 Remove all traces of carbon. The old idea of leaving a ring of carbon as a seal round the periphery of the piston crown does not apply to modern engines. 4 Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up, the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised and proceed as just described. 36 Cylinder head - examination 1 With the valves removed and all carbon deposits cleaned away, the valve seats must be examined for signs of cracking or pitting. Mild pitting can be cured by grinding in the valves with carborundum paste, but any hair line cracks or severe ridging and pitting mean that at least the seats will need recutting or renewing. This is a specialist task. Cracks visible anywhere else in the head, mean that it must be scrapped. 2 The head must be perfectly flat where it joins the cylinder block. Use a metal straight edge at various positions along and across the head to see if it is warped in any way. The least one can expect from a warped head, is persistent blowing of gaskets and loss of coolant. 3 Check that the bores for the valves (there are no removable guides) are not worn. If they are they will need reaming out for the fitting of oversize valves.

36.4 Cylinder head water distribution tube

Chapter 1 4 Examine also the cooling water distributor tube inside the head. It may be removed for cleaning if necessary. Renew it if it is badly pitted or corroded (see Chapter 2 for details). 5 If fitting a later type cylinder head to an early type engine it will be necessary to sleeve two of the bolt holes as shown in Fig. 1.12. As the holes are already counterbored you need only press in the sleeves until they are flush with the shoulder within each bore. 6 If on the other hand you intend to fit an early type cylinder head to a late type cylinder block you will require ^ in bolts and a suitable cylinder head gasket. The cylinder head bolt holes must be drilled out to 3§ in diameter whilst one hole must also be counterdrilled to 55 in diameter to a depth of 2.24 in (dimension A in Fig. 1.12. As it is essential that these holes are drilled with exacting precision, this task is probably best entrusted to your GM dealer or automotive machine shop.

35

Engine

finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is complete. It is important though that the thickness of the valve head is correct and that the seat widths of the grinding do not exceed specification. If they do the valve will need renewal and the seat recutting by a specialist. 5 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean. 6 Check that all valve springs are intact. If any one is broken, all should be replaced. Check that the free height of the springs is within specifications. If some springs are not within specification, replace them all. Springs suffer from fatigue and it is a good idea to replace them even if they look all right.

i

Fig. 1.12 When fitting the late cylinder head to early engines, it will be necessary to sleeve (2) bolt holes (1). If fitting an early cylinder head to a later engine counter-drill hole 3 tog in diameter and to a depth of 2.24 in (dimension A) (Sec 36)

Fig. 1.13 Valve head thickness A must not be less than specification (Sec 37)

38 Engine reassembly - general 37 Valve assemblies - examination and renovation 1 Start by checking the respective valves and their guides for excessive wear. If the valves are a slack fit in the guides, ie if there is noticeable movement when side to side pressure is exerted on the stem whilst in the guide, then the procedure is to ream out the valve guide bores and fit new valves with oversize stems. Reaming is a skilled operation and the non-qualified owner would be well advised to have this done professionally. 2 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. 3 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. This latter job should be entrusted to the local GM agent or engineering works. Normally, it is the valve that is too badly worn for replacement, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 4 Valve grinding is carried out as follows: Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but every¬ thing must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. 2 Before assembly begins renew any bolts or studs, the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible use new spring washers. 3 Apart from your normal tools, equip yourself with a supply of clean rag, an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty plastic detergent bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out, will do), a new supply of assorted spring washers, new crankshaft front and rear oilseals, a new timing case oilseal and a new oil filter element. On early engines you will require Flylomar SQ32/M and Seelastik 732 RTV sealant compounds. On later engines only the latter should be required although where the crankshaft main bearings are to be shimmed, to obtain the correct bearing clearance, you will also need some Wellseal jointing com¬ pound.

39 Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting 1 Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all oilways are clear. If possible blow the drillings out with compressed air. 2 It is best to take out the plug at each end of the main oil gallery and so clean out the oilways to the crankshaft bearing housings, and camshaft bearings. Refit the plugs using jointing compound to make an oil tight seal.

36

Chapter 1

39.4 Centre main bearing showing thrust flanges of shell

3 Treat the crankshaft in the same fashion and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oilways. 4 If the old main bearing shells are to be renewed, (not to do so is false economy unless they are virtually as new), fit the three upper halves of the main bearing shells to their locations in the crankcase, after wiping the locations clear (photo). 5 On early engines, only the centre upper shell bearing is flanged, whilst later engines have a flange on both the upper and lower central bearing shells. The later twin flange type can be fitted to the earlier engines if required. 6 New bearings have overthick flanges which must be reduced in order to permit the crankshaft to be fitted with the correct amount of end float, which is from 0.002 to 0.008 in (0.05 to 0.20 mm). End float, which is the amount a crankshaft can move endways, is measured between the centre bearing upper shell flange and the bearing surface on the web of the crankshaft, with the crankshaft moved to one extreme of its end float travel. 7 It will be necessary to reduce the shell bearing flange thickness by rubbing it down evenly on an engineers flat bed covered with fine emery cloth. This is done progressively until a feeler blade of 0.002 in (0.05 mm) thickness can be placed between the flange and the crankshaft web.

Engine treated. There should be a leaflet, indicating the need for this, with the bearings. 10 With the three upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the lower bearing cap housings and fit the three lower shell bearings to their caps (ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap, if the old bearings are being refitted). 11 Next install the new rear bearing oil seal. First lubricate the flange and oil seal lip with anti-scuffing paste (molybdenum disulphide) and place the seal on the flange with the lip facing the centre of the crankshaft. Make sure it is fitted squarely, that the lip is not turned back in any way and that the flange is completely free of burrs, scores or scratches, which will damage the seal and make it useless (photo). 12 Check that the oil seal groove in the crankcase is completely free of old jointing compound and that the bearing cap faces throughout are similarly clean. Remove all traces of oil. When quite clean and dry apply Hylomar SQ32/M' jointing compound sparingly into the seal groove in the crankcase. 13 Thoroughly lubricate the main bearing shells with engine oil and with the oil seal fitted, lower the crankshaft carefully into position. The weight of the crankshaft must be supported to ensure that the seal goes into the crankcase groove without damage or disturbance (photos). 14 The main bearing caps with new shell bearings are next fitted in their respective positions, ensuring that the mating faces are perfectly clean to ensure perfect fitting. On later models where only standard

39.11 Crankshaft rear oilseal

8 Note that at the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main bearing cap housings. 9 If new bearings are being fitted, carefully clean away all traces of any protective grease or coating with which they may have been

Fig. 1.14 Using a dial gauge to measure crankshaft endfloat (Sec 39)

39.13 Crankshaft installed in crankcase

Chapter 1

37

Engine

39.14 Refit the crankshaft rear bearing cap

39.1 7 Tightening a main bearing cap bolt with torque wrench

production caps are available, it will be necessary to determine the main bearing journal clearance. If the clearance is less than that specified, special shims of the required thickness must be inserted between the bearing cap and crankcase. Two shim thicknesses are available being 0.002 in (0.05 mm) or 0.003 in (0.076 mm). If necessary the side for side shim thickness can differ by 0.001 in (0.25 mm) giving a 0.0005 in (0.013 mm) variation in the bore diameter. When fitting the shims, locate them clear of and parallel with the bearing shell edge in the crankcase (to avoid trapping them between the bearing shell ends). To hold the shims exactly in position when fitting, lightly smear their mating surfaces with Wellseal. If the bearing cap clearance is more than specified, the cap faces must be reduced accordingly in a similar manner to that given in paragraph 6. Take care not to reduce the thickness by too much or shims will be required. 1 5 Before fitting the rear main bearing caps, sealant must be applied to the mating surface on the crankcase. On early type models, smear the bearing cap mating surfaces with Hylomar SQ32/M jointing compound and apply a bead of Seelastik 732 RTV sealant to the cap register as shown in Fig. 1.15. Leave a gap between the sealant and the cap vertical face. On later engine types (with the wider register flange) only apply a bead of Seelastik 732 RTV sealant as shown, to the cap register flange, leaving a gap between the sealant and the cap vertical face. > 16 The centre bearing cap should have the tapped hole (for the oil pump pipe support bracket bolt) on the camshaft side. 17 Oil all the threads and refit and tighten the bolts to the specified torque (photo).

18 Any sealing compound which exudes from around the rear main bearing cap should be left where it is. 19 Check the crankshaft endfloat using a dial gauge or feeler blades. This should be as given in the Specifications, provided the centre flanged shell bearings are to manufacturer's specified tolerance. 20 Turn the crankshaft and check that it rotates smoothly during a complete revolution.

40 Piston rings - refitting 1 Ensure that the piston and piston rings have been inspected and renewed in accordance with the procedures described in Section 30. 2 Check that the ring grooves and oilways are completely clean. 3 Fit the rings over the top of the piston starting with the bottom oil control (scraper) ring. 4 The ring may be spread with the fingers sufficiently to go around the piston, but it could be difficult getting the first ring past the other grooves. It is well worth spending a little time cutting a strip of thin tin plate from any handy can, say 1 inch wide and slightly shorter in length than the piston circumference. Place the ring round this and then slide the strip with the ring on it over the piston until the ring can be conveniently slipped off into its groove. 5 Follow in the same way with the other two rings - remembering that the ring with the cut-out step goes in the top groove with the step towards the top of the piston.

Fig. 1.15 Sealant application on the earlier engine (Sec 39)

Fig. 1.16 Sealant application on the later engines (Sec 39)

(1) Use Hylomar SQ32/M jointing compound (2) Use Seelastik 732 RTV sealant

Use Seelastik 732 RTV sealant where shown (4) Do not apply sealant to surface (3)

38

Chapter 1

6

The words TOP or BOTTOM which may be marked on the rings indicate which way up the ring goes in the groove in the piston, ie the side marked TOP should face the top of the piston, and does not mean that the ring concerned should necessarily go into the top groove. 7 When assembling the oil scraper ring on the 76.6 cu in (1256 cc) engine ensure that the expander/spacer ends and the respective rails (Fig. 1.8) are equally spaced around the piston circumference. Also with this engine the second compression ring is stepped on its lower face, unless of course an alternative type of ring is being fitted. 8 When the respective rings are assembled check that the ring to ring land clearances are as specified.

41 Piston and connecting rod asemblies - refitting 1 Apply engine oil liberally to the cylinder bores and to the piston rings. 2 Fit a piston ring compressor to No 1 piston and then insert the connecting rod into the cylinder bore nearest the front of the block. Check that the notch in the piston crown faces the front of the engine (photo). 3 With the piston skirt having entered the cylinder bore and the compressor resting squarely on the block, place the wooden handle of a hammer on the centre of the piston crown and then tap the head of the handle sharply to drive the piston assembly into the bore. 4 With the crankpin at its lowest point, carefully pull the connecting rod downward and connect it to the crankshaft. Make sure that the big-end bearing shell has not become displaced. 5 Install the big-end bearing cap (complete with bearing shell, making sure that the matching marks on the rod and cap are in alignment and are on the correct side of the engine. This will be automatic, provided the piston and connecting rod have been correctly assembled and the notch on the piston crown is correctly positioned. 6 Screw in the big-end bolts and tighten to the specified torque (photo). 7 Repeat the foregoing operations on the remaining three piston assemblies.

42 Camshaft and tappets - refitting 1 With the engine inverted, oil the tappet blocks and install them in their original sequence (photo). 2 Oil the camshaft bearings and carefully insert the camshaft from the front of the cylinder block (photo). 3 Install the thrust plate and securing bolts, making sure that the plate is exactly positioned as shown (longer fork nearest chain tensioner slipper) (photo), in order to permit correct fitting of the timing chain tensioner. 4 With the camshaft thrust plate bolts tightened first check that the camshaft rotates freely and without binding and then check the camshaft endfloat using feeler gauges or a dial gauge. If the endfloat exceeds that specified renew the thrust plate.

43 Timing sprockets, chain, tensioner and timing case - refitting 1 This section describes the refitting procedure as part of the general overhaul of the engine and assumes that the engine is removed from the car. If, however, the timing gear has been removed with the engine in the car, the following additional points should be noted when refitting the timing case. The front edge of the sump where the section of gasket between it and the timing case is fitted, must be thoroughly cleaned of all remaining traces of gasket and sealing compound. A new piece of gasket cut from either a whole new sump gasket or material of identical composition and thickness must be put into position using a sealing compound such as Flermetite or WellseaT It must fit exactly, particularly where it joins in the angle between the sump and the front face of the engine block. The lower edge of the timing case must be similarly covered with sealing compound. When the timing case is refitted, the gap between the bottom of the timing case and the sump will be minimal and great care will be required to keep the piece of sump gasket in position. Replace the four set screws finger tight only, and finally tighten them when all the other pro¬ cedures for refitting the timing case have been completed.

Engine 2 It is advisable to fit a new oil seal into the timing case, so first of all drive out the old one. 3 Place the new seal in position with the lip facing the inside of the cover. Drive the seal home with a block of wood and a mallet. 4 Later models have a plain oil seal bore (enabling seal removal without the need to remove the cover), and with this type of cover the seal must be inserted to a depth of 0.24 in below the case front face. 5 Assemble the chain to the two timing sprockets so that a straight line will pass through the centre of both wheels and the timing marks, with the timing marks facing each other (photo). 6 If a new chain has been obtained as a complete unit, it may have been necessary to buy a length of chain and a connecting link. Having ensured that the total number of links, including the connector, is the same as on the old chain first join the two ends to the connector pin link. 7 Place the link bar over the pins. 8 Clip the spring so that both ends engage in the pin grooves fully. 9 Note: When assembling the chain to the sprockets ensure that the dosed end of the chain link dip leads in the direction of travel of the chain. Note that the camshaft sprocket has a locating peg on the inner face which engages with a hole in the end of the camshaft (arrowed in photo).

10 Next position the camshaft and the crankshaft so that the locating hole and key respectively are in the positioned pointed out in the photo. This position will mean the minimum of fiddling when the sprockets and chain assembly is refitted in its correct position. 11 Holding the assembled timing sprockets and chain so that they cannot separate, place them on to the camshaft and crankshaft together so that lug and keyway fit in their respective places. Care is necessary to keep the sprockets in their relative positions in the chain. 12 Fit the bolt and washer holding the camshaft sprocket in position, and locking the sprocket with a screwdriver, tighten the bolt (photo). Do not revolve the crankshaft during or after this - the oil pump installation will thus be simplified. 13 The chain tensioner unit is now fitted. On earlier models with manual adjustment, if a new tensioner pad is being fitted, first partially screw in the main plug to the timing case (photo). Now fit the new pad together with the adjuster screw (which should be screwed right down into the spindle of the pad) into the plug from the inside (photo). In the photo the oil seal has not yet been refitted in the groove of the pad spindle. Ensure that this is done with a new seal. 14 Tighten down the plug and ensure that the adjuster lock spring is properly located. 1 5 On later models fitted with the automatic chain tensioner, fit it by compressing the shoe into the body until it reaches the latch notch on the piston where it will lock in position. The whole unit may then be placed into position on the projecting dowel between the two timing sprockets. The top edge of the unit should abut the two extensions of the camshaft thrust plate. When the chain and sprockets are re¬ assembled, the pad can be pressed in to release it from the notch in the piston. Spring pressure will then be applied to the chain. 1 6 Reverting to the early engines, it will be noted that on the face of the block between the two timing sprockets, there is a protruding nozzle with a hole in it from which oil is fed to lubricate the timing chain. On some early models (not illustrated), there is a vertical fiat on the camshaft side. This locates on a lug cast into the inside of the

41.2 Piston/connecting rod installation using a piston ring compressor

41.6 Refit the big end caps

42.1 Using a valve grinding suction tool to install a tappet

42.2 Insert' the camshaft carefully into position

42.3 Camshaft thrust plate location

43.5 Sprocket alignment marks

43.9 Camshaft sprocket locating peg

43.10 Position camshaft peg and crankshaft key as shown

43.12 Tightening the camshaft sprocket bolt

43.13a Locate the chain tensioner plug (early models) ...

43.13b ... and tensioner

43.1 5 Timing chain tensioner in position later models

40

Chapter 1

Engine

timing case. This is to ensure that the oil hole faces in the proper direction, namely, towards the timing chain on a line 15° from the vertical. This hole position should be verified on later models as well. 17 With a new gasket fitted to the face of the block, lift the timing case into position. Ensure the tensioner pad does not foul the chain, by seeing that the adjusting screw is turned fully clockwise (early models only). 1 8 Fit the mounting bolts, finger tight, and put the generator bracket on the stud before refitting the nut. 19 Locate the crankshaft pulley wheel on to the end of the crankshaft (photo), lining up the key in the shaft with the keyway in the pulley. This centralises the oil seal before the timing case bolts have been tightened up. 20 Tighten down the cover bolts. 21 To adjust the tensioner on early models turn the square headed adjuster screw anti-clockwise until a firm resistance is felt and then back it off y turn. This adjustment must be re-checked later when the engine is running. A chatter indicates the tension is too slack and a whine, too tight. 22 Fit the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer and tighten it to the specified torque setting. Hold the crankshaft steady with a wood block placed between the crankshaft web and the crankcase and tighten up the bolt. If the engine is in the car, engage a gear to hold the crankshaft while the bolt is being tightened. Fig. 1.18 Drivegear position to spindle slot (early type oil pump) (Sec 44)

43.19 Fit the crankshaft pulley

44 Oil pump and sump - refitting

Early offset spindle type 1 Earlier models have an oil pump with the spindle having an offset slot in the end of the impeller shaft which drives the distributor. It is therefore important that the drive gear is correctly meshed to the camshaft skew gear, otherwise the ignition timing will be incorrect. 2 If for any reason, the drive gear has been removed from the oil pump spindle, make sure that the slot in the shaft is lined up with the gear teeth. 3 Next examine the pump, be it a new one or original, and ensure that the oilway drilling at the end of the body in the upper side of the spindle bush is clear. This oilway delivers oil for lubrication of the drive gear. Also check that the vent plug hole is clear. 4 Provided that the crankshaft has not been revolved since it was set at TDC on No 1 compression (for pump removal), or since the valve timing gear was reassembled as described in the previous Section, the next paragraph may be ignored. 5 If the crankshaft has been turned it is necessary to ensure that the piston TDC for No 1 is set on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke. To do this set No 1 piston at TDC and examine the first two cams on the camshaft. If the lowest points on the cams are uppermost (meaning both valves would be closed), then TDC No 1 is on compression which is what is required. If this is not the case turn the crankshaft through one revolution.

Fig. 1.19 Position spindle slot as shown prior to fitting the pump (Sec 44)

6 With the crankshaft (and therefore the camshaft) in the correct position, set the spindle of the oil pump so that the long side of the offset slot lines up with the holes in the body as shown in Fig. 1.19. 7 Place a new gasket on the crankcase flange, put the mounting bolts through the pump body and line it up so that when installed it will not need any movement to line up the bolt holes. 8 When refitted and viewed from the other end the slot should appear as shown in Fig. 1.20. The offset is to the rear and the slot is angled 14° anti-clockwise from a line at right angles to the centre line of the crankshaft. 9 If the gear should be mistakenly meshed even one tooth out of position it will be quite obvious. In such cases remove the pump, re¬ align the spindle as described in paragraph 6, and refit and check it again.

Late type pumps

10

^

As from engine number 1815809 (October/November 1977) the oil pump slot is no longer offset, and a revised installation procedure is necessary.

Chapter 1

Engine

41

44.13 Refit the oil pump unit Fig. 1.20 Correct position of pump spindle after fitting (Sec 44)

Fig. 1.22 Limits of oil pump spindle position (A to B) after fitting - late pump (Sec 44)

Fig. 1.21 Late model oil pump drive spindle orientation before fitting (Sec 44) 11 Rotate the crankshaft by means of the pulley bolt until the pointer on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the TDC mark on the timing cover, with No 1 piston on the compression stroke. This can be established by checking that Nos 1 and 2 tappets (counting from the front of the engine) are resting on the lowest profile of the camshaft lobes. 12 Turn the oil pump drive gear until the drive spindle takes up the position shown in Fig. 1.21. 13 Fit the oil pump to the crankcase using a new flange gasket, and check that, with the oil pump bolts inserted, the engagement to the camshaft has caused the spindle slot to turn to a position within the limits shown in Fig. 1.22 when viewed from above. If not, withdraw the oil pump and turn the spindle slightly so that the position will be correct when the oil pump is next inserted.

Early and late pump types 14 Tighten down the holding bolts when the pump is correctly positioned. 15 Fit the suction pipe and strainer and, before finally tightening the pipe union into the pump body, fix the mounting clip to the centre main bearing cap. 16 The sump gasket should now be installed. To do this, first clean the mating faces of sump and crankcase, also the rear bearing cap seal groove. 17 Apply suitable jointing compound to the corners formed by the

44.17 Fit the sump gasket

rear main bearing cap seal groove and the crankcase. Install the sump gasket so that the ends of the gasket are located in the cap groove and then apply more jointing compound to seal the ends of the gasket within the groove (photo).

42

Chapter 1

Engine

8 See that the bush for the gearbox input shaft spigot is in good condition and in position in the end of the crankshaft. Refer to Section 27, paragraph 8 for its removal and refitting details. 46 Cylinder head - reassembly

Fig. 1.23 Rear main bearing cap oil seal chamfers (A) (Sec 44)

1 Gather together all the new or reground valves and ensure that if the old valves are being replaced they will return into their original positions. 2 Ensure that all valves and springs are clean and free from carbon deposits and that the ports and valve guides in the cylinder head have no carbon dust or valve grinding paste left in them. 3 Starting at one end of the cylinder head take the appropriate valve, oil the stem and put it in the guide (photo). Then put the screw head of the valve spring clamp over the valve head and place the valve spring over the other end of the valve stem. On later engines, inlet valve stem oil seals are used, fitting over the guide housings. Locate each seal and lubricate its stem seal lip prior to fitment of the valves. 4 Then place the cap over the spring with the recessed part inside the coil of the spring. 5 Place the end of the spring compressor over the cap and valve stem and screw up the clamp until the spring is compressed past the groove in the valve stem. Then put a little grease round the groove. 6 Place the two halves of the split collar (collets) into the groove with the narrow ends pointing towards the spring. The grease will hold them in the groove (photo).

Fig. 1.24 Components of the gearbox to sump brace (Sec 44) 1 Gearbox brace

2

Sump bracket

3

Lockwasher

18 Warm the rear seal and shape it to fit the groove in the bearing cap. 19 Install the seal so that the chamfers A face inwards. Apply jointing compound to the junctions of the seal and gasket and then install the sump, tightening the bolts in diagonally opposite sequence. Do not overtighten them. 20 Note the gearbox to sump bracket brace. The inclusion of the lockwasher 3 is essential. This is only fitted to later models.

45 Flywheel - refitting 1 If the starter ring gear needs renewal proceed as described in Section 33.

46.3 Insert a valve into its guide

2 Usually the flywheel is such a close fit on the crankshaft flange that it is not possible to simply put it on and replace the bolts. Help will be needed. 3 Note that there is a dowel peg on the crankshaft which locates in the hole in the flywheel. This is standard to most models although for a brief period Opel type clutch units were fitted and in this instance a different flywheel was used and close fitting bolts were employed to locate the clutch on the flywheel instead of dowels. These two flywheel types are not interchangeable. 4 Offer up the flywheel to the crankshaft, hold it square and pick up the threads with the four mounting bolts. Then turn each bolt no more than 2 turn at a time and steadily draw the flywheel on. 5 When the flywheel is safely located on the shaft, remove the bolts and apply a small quantity of sealer to the centre only of each bolt thread. (This seals the holes in the crankshaft flange through which oil could otherwise seep, and also lock the bolts. The sealer is kept away from the end of the bolt to avoid the possibility of any falling insidelhe crankcase).

6 Insert the bolts and tighten them up evenly in rotation so that the flywheel is held square. If this is not done carefully, there is a possibility of damaging the flange and corresponding bore in the flywheel with resulting disturbance of the finely set balance. 7 Tighten up the bolts to the specified torque (overtightening can distort the mounting flange with serious consequences such as imbalance or the flywheel running out of true).

46.6 Locate the valve split collets

Chapter 1

Fig. 1.25 Inlet valve stem seal collar and securing clip (arrowed) (Sec 46)

7 Release the clamp slowly and carefully, making sure that the collets are not dislodged from the groove. When the clamp is fully released the top edges of the split collars should be in line with each other. It is quite good practice to give the top of each spring a smart tap with a soft mallet when assembly is complete to ensure that the collets are properly settled.

47 Cylinder head - refitting

Engine

47.5 Locate the cylinder head gasket

5 Place the gasket in position on the block and lower the head onto it. Locate all the cylinder head bolts and lightly tighten them (photo). 6 Proceed with a torque wrench to tighten down the bolts turn at a time in the progressive order as indicated in Fig. 1.27. This tightening sequence should continue until each bolt is down to the specified torque setting. If, in the early stages, any one bolt is obviously slacker than the rest, it should be tightened equal to the others even if it may require a turn or so out of sequence. The whole point of the procedure it to keep the tightening stresses even over the whole head, so that it goes down evenly and undistorted.

1 With the valves and springs reassembled, examine the head to make sure that the mating face is perfectly clean and amooth and that no traces of gasket or other compounds are left. Any scores, grooves or burrs should be carefully cleaned up with a fine file. 2 Examine the face of the cylinder block in the same way as the head. Make sure that the concave cups of the tappets are clean and free from sludge. 3 Prior to December 1975, Bedford recommended that the head gasket should be coated on each side with a jointing compound such as 'Wellseal'. After this date it was recommended that a 0.04 to 0.08 in (1 to 2 mm) bead of Hylomar SQ32/M jointing compound was placed along the pushrod rail of the cylinder block face and on the top face of the cylinder block gasket (Fig. 1.26). 4 Most head gaskets indicate which side faces upwards, but there can be no confusion as it is not symmetrical, there being two distinctive shaped water jacket holes at the front end. Some gaskets are marked Front to ensure correct location.

Fig. 1.26 Jointing compound location on engine cylinder block for the post-1975 engines (Sec 47)

43

Fig. 1.27 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 47)

44

Chapter 1

Engine

48.6 Inserting a pushrod

49.1 Checking and adjusting a valve clearance

48 Valve rocker arms and pushrods - refitting

5 With the No 1 piston on compression at TDC both valves for that cylinder No 1 and 2) may be set to their correct clearances as described in paragraph 1. 6 The firing order being 1, 3, 4, 2, the crankshaft may then be rotated | revolution clockwise and No 3 piston will be at TDC so that valves Nos 5 and 6 may be adjusted. A further \ revolution and No 4 piston is at TDC for valves Nos 7 and 8 to be checked and finally the last half revolution presents No 2 piston at TDC for valves Nos 3 and 4 to be checked. The table following shows the piston/valve rela¬ tionship, and which are exhaust and inlet valves:

1 The rocker gear can be refitted with the head either on or off the engine. The only part of the procedure to watch is that the rocker nuts must not be screwed down too far or it will not be possible to insert the pushrods. 2 First place the washer over the rocker stud and then the light spring, with the narrower end down. 3 Next put the rocker arm over the stud followed by the pivot ball. Make sure that the spring fits snugly round the rocker arm centre section and that the two bearing surfaces of the interior of the arm and the ball face, are clean and lubricated with engine oil. 4 Oil the stud thread with SAE 90 oil and fit the nut with the self¬ locking collar uppermost. Screw it down until the locking collar is on the stud. 5 Insert the pushrods through the head in the holes in line with each valve and rocker stud. It is easy to drop the pushrods inadvertently and if they fall at an angle, the lower end could get past the tappet and drop down into the crankcase. This would mean certain removal of the head and possible removal of the sump in order to retrieve it. It would be advisable, therefore, to push the top end through a small 'collar' of stiff cardboard, or hold it in a bulldog clip so that it cannot drop through. When the lower end is felt to be firmly seated in the tappet recess the clip or collar may be removed. 6 Next screw down the stud nut so that the top of the pushrod engages in the recess in the rocker arm and approximately } in of the stud protrudes above the top of each nut. It is as well to check the efficiency of the self-locking ring at this stage by checking that at least 3 Ib/ft torque is needed to turn the nut. If it is less than this figure the nuts could turn with vibration and should be renewed.

49 Valve clearances - adjustment 1 The valve clearances should be set by placing a feeler gauge of the correct size (see Specifications) between the valve stem and rocker arm and turning the nut until the clearance is correct. This operation is carried out when each valve is closed, and the appropriate cam is at its lowest point. The initial settings can be made with the engine cold but recheck them when the engine is warm (photo). 2 To ensure that each valve is in the correct position for checking the clearance, proceed as follows: 3 Set the crankshaft pulley marker to the TDC pointer cast in the timing case (the upper one - see Chapter 4), and the distributror rotor at No 1 spark plug lead position. 4 If the engine is being reassembled after an overhaul, it would be best to leave the job until it is back in the vehicle. It will be easier to turn the engine over as needed.

Exhaust Inlet Inlet Exhaust Exhaust Inlet Inlet Exhaust

Valve No

Piston No

1 2

1 1 2 2

3 4 5

3 3 4 4

6 7

8

7 Another way of setting the valves to check the clearance, is to do them in pairs, regardless of crankshaft setting. The table below shows the valves linked as pairs, and when either one of a pair is fully open (valve spring compressed) the other is fully closed and the clearance may be checked. Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

fully open No 8 No 6 No 4 No 7 No 1 No 3 No 5 No 2

Check and Adjust Valve No 1 exhaust Valve No 3 inlet Valve No 5 exhaust Valve No 2 inlet Valve No 8 exhaust Valve No 6 inlet Valve No 4 exhaust Valve No 7 inlet

If the order of the left hand column is followed, the minimum amount of engine turning will be necessary.

50 Inlet and exhaust manifolds - refitting

Inlet manifold 1 Fit a new aluminium gasket so that it lines up with the ports in the top of the cylinder head. 2 Refit the manifold and fit the three bolts holding it down. 3 The centre one will need holding with pliers in order to place it easily into the centre locating hole.

Chapter 1 Exhaust manifold 4 Place a new gasket in position, having made sure that the mating faces on both the manifold and the cylinder head are perfectly clean and flat. 5 Refit the manifold and when reconnecting the exhaust pipe fit a new gasket. Make sure that the inlet manifold brace is also refitted.

51 Engine - final reassembly 1 All the components removed (see Section 8) should be replaced on the engine where possible before the engine is refitted into the vehicle as it is generally more easily done at bench level. One possible exception is the carburettor which is somewhat vulnerable and could be damaged when fitting the engine. If a pre-engaged starter motor is fitted it should be noted that it cannot be fixed with the engine mounting bracket in position when the engine is in the car. Even if the valve clearances have not been finally set, locate the rocker cover for protection. You need not fit the new gasket yet, as the cover will have to be removed once more. 2 If the engine mountings and brackets were removed, refit them now ensuring that the bolts are treated with a locking compound. If the engine mounting rubbers are defective in any way, they must be renewed. 3 When the fan belt is refitted, adjust it as given in Chapter 2.

Engine

45

on the tip of the gearbox input shaft to assist assembly. 5 Always fit new oil and air cleaner elements after an overhaul. 6 The bonnet will need two pairs of hands to support it when refitting it. Fix the bracket bolts and nuts just tight enough to hold it and then close the bonnet to ensure it is correctly lined up and central, before tightening them. 7 The following final check list should ensure that the engine starts safely and with the minimum of delay: a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j) k) i) m) n) o) p) q) r)

Fuel lines to pump and carburettor - connected and tightened Water hoses connected and dipped Engine drain tap dosed Water system replenished Sump drain plug fitted and tight OH in engine Oil in gearbox and level plug tight LT wires connected to distributor and coil Spark plugs tight Tappet clearances set correctly HT leads connected securely to distributor, spark plugs and coil Rotor arm replaced in distributor and pushed fully home Choke and throttle linkages connected Braided earthing cable, engine to frame reconnected Starter motor lead connected Fan belt fitted and correctly tensioned Alternator!dynamo leads connected Battery charged and leads connected to dean terminals

52 Engine - refitting Engine refitment is generally speaking a straightforward reversal of the removal sequence. The following hints and tips will, however be found useful. 1 If the engine and gearbox have both been removed together, it is best to refit them together. This will mean fitting the engine to the gearbox on the bench and will make the mating of the gearbox input shaft to the clutch that much easier (see Chapter 6). It will also obviate the need to disconnect the propeller shaft, which is necessary if the gearbox is removed and refitted separately from the engine. As the engine is lowered in the vehicle, the front of the propeller shaft must be fed into the rear of the gearbox by someone underneath the vehicle. It is also important when reconnecting the engine to the gearbox, that the bracing plate is correctly fitted between the bellhousing and sump flange (where fitted). This is important for the rigidity of the assembly. 2 It is helpful to refit the exhaust manifold before the engine is put back. It acts as a good sling attachment. Note also the remarks concerning starter motor refitment regarding engine mounting (see Chapter 10, Starter motor - removal and refitting). 3 When the engine is being put back into the vehicle make sure that it is watched every inch of the way to ensure that no pipes or wires get caught up or damaged. If, for any reason the engine will not go where you want it to, look and see why. Do not force anything. As soon as the engine is re-located on its forward mountings it must still be supported at its rear end where the gearbox is not yet installed. This can be done by placing a block of wood behind the cylinder head. 4 If the engine is separated from the gearbox, smear a little grease

53 Engine - starting up and initial adjustments after major overhaul 1 With the engine refitted to the vehicle, give a final visual check to see that everything has been reconnected and that no loose rags or tools have been left within the engine compartment. 2 Turn the engine slow running screw in about y turn (to increase slow running once the engine is started) (Chapter 3). This faster slowrunning will be needed due to the tightness of the new engine components. 3 Pull the choke fully out and start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor bowl will be empty and need initial priming. 4 As soon as the engine starts, push the choke in until the engine runs at a fast tickover and examine the engine for leaks. Check particularly the water hoses and oil filter and fuel hose unions. 5 Run the vehicle on the road until normal operating temperature is reached. 6 Recheck the valve clearances as given in Section 49. 7 Where new internal components have been installed, the engine speed should be restricted for the first 500 miles (800 km) and at this mileage, the engine oil should be renewed, the cylinder head bolts checked for correct torque (unscrew each bolt one y turn and then tighten to specified torque and in recommended sequence). Finally, check and adjust the valve clearances.

54 Fault diagnosis - engine Symptom

Reason(s)

Engine fails to start

Discharged battery Loose battery connection Disconnected or broken ignition leads Moisture on spark plugs, distributor or leads Incorrect contact points gap, cracked distributor cap or rotor Incorrect spark plug gap Dirt or water in carburettor jets Empty fuel tank Faulty fuel pump Faulty starter motor Faulty carburettor choke mechanism

*

46

Chapter 1

Engine

Symptom

Reason(s)

Engine idles erratically

Air leak at intake manifold Leaking cylinder head gasket Worn timing sprockets Worn camshaft lobes Overheating Faulty fuel pump

Engine misfires at idling speed

Incorrect spark plug gap Uneven compression between cylinders Faulty coil or condenser Faulty contact points Poor connections or condition of ignition leads Dirt in carburettor jets Incorrectly adjusted carburettor Worn distributor cam Air leak at carburettor flange gasket Faulty ignition advance mechanism Sticking valves Incorrect valve clearance Low cylinder compression

Engine misfires throughout spqed range

Dirt or water in carburettor or fuel lines Incorrect ignition timing Contact points incorrectly gapped Worn distributor Faulty coil or condenser Spark plug gaps incorrect Weak valve spring Overheating

Engine stalls

Engine lacks power

Incorrectly adjusted carburettor Dirt or water in fuel Ignition system incorrectly adjusted Sticking choke mechanism Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs Faulty coil or condenser Exhaust system clogged Distributor advance inoperative Air leak at intake manifold Air leak at carburettor mounting flange Incorrect valve clearance Sticking valve Overheating Low compression Poor electrical connections of ignition system Incorrect ignition timing Faulty coil or condenser Worn distributor Dirt in carburettor Spark plugs incorrectly gapped Incorrectly adjusted carburettor Faulty fuel pump Weak valve springs Sticking valve Incorrect valve timing Incorrect valve adjustment Blown cylinder head gasket Low compression Brakes dragging Clutch slipping Overheating

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents Anti-freeze coolant solution.!. 9 Cooling system - draining... 2 Cooling system - filling .. 4 Cooling system - flushing. 3 Fan belt - removal, refitting and adjustment. 10 Fault diagnosis - cooling system. 12

General description... i Radiator - removal, inspection, cleaning and refitting. 5 Thermostat — removal, testing and refitting. 6 Water pump - dismantling and reassembly. 8 Water pump - removal and refitting. 7 Water temperature gauge - fault diagnosis and rectification. 11

Specification

System type

Thermo syphon, pressurised with thermostatic temperature control and belt driven water pump

Radiator cap pressure: Early models. Late models.

6.25 to 7.75 Ibf in2 (0.43 to 0.53 bar) 12 to 15.75 Ibf in2 (0.82 to 1.08 bar) Bellows type

Thermostat starts to open. Thermostat fully open. Valve opening (minimum).

Capsule type Capsule type Capsule type (Western(AC) AC from 1978) Thompson) on) 77° to 83°C 85° to 89°C 80° to 84°C 93°C (199°F) 102°C (214°F) 98° (208°F) 92°C (198° F) 0.34 in (8.6 mm)0.32 in (8.1 mm )0.28 in (7.1 mm)0.36 in (9.1 mm)

System capacity: Early models with film block radiator Without heater. With heater. Late models with tube and centre type radiator Without heater. With heater. Water pump type. Fan belt tension.

10.25 Imp pints (5.8 litres) 11.25 Imp pints (6.3 litres) 9.25 Imp pints (5.2 litres) 11.25 Imp pints (6.3 litres) Centrifugal Refer to the specifications of Chapter 10 for dynamo/alternator drive belt adjustment as applicable

Coolant: Type/specification

Torque wrench settings Fan securing screw. Water pump bolts.

1

Ethylene glycol based antifreeze, to BS 3151, 3152 or 6580 (Duckhams Universal Antifreeze and Summer Coolant) Ibf ft 14 24

Nm 19 33

General description

The engine cooling water is circulated by a thermo-syphon, water pump assisted system, and the coolant is pressurised. This is both to prevent the loss of water down the overflow pipe with the radiator cap in position, and to prevent premature boiling in adverse conditions. The radiator cap is, in effect, a safety valve designed to lift at the specified pressure, enabling the coolant to reach a temperature above 212°F (100°C) before it lifts the cap. It then boils off, steam escaping down the overflow pipe. When the temperature/pressure decreases, the cap reseats until the temperature/pressure builds up again. In addition there is a vacuum valve in the cap which permits air to enter the system when it cools down. It is, therefore, important to check that the radiator cap fitted is of

1

Pressure relief valve

2

Anti-vacuum valve

48

Chapter 2 Cooling system

the correct specification (the relief pressure is stamped on the top) and in good condition, and that the spring behind the sealing washer has not weakened. Most garages have a device in which radiator caps can be tested. The system functions in the following fashion: Cold water in the bottom of the radiator circulates up the lower radiator hose to the water pump, where it is pushed round the water passages in the cylinder block, helping to keep the cylinder bores and pistons cool. The water then travels up into the cylinder head and circulates round the combustion spaces and valve seats absorbing more heat, and then, when the engine is at its proper operating temperature, travels out of the cylinder head, past the open thermostat into the upper radiator hose and so into the radiator head tank. The water travels down the radiator where it is rapidly cooled by the in-rush of cold air through the radiator core, which is created by both the fan and the motion of the car. The water, now cold, reaches the bottom of the radiator, whereupon the cycle is repeated. When the engine is cold the thermostat (a valve which opens and closes according to the temperature of the water) maintains the circulation of the same water in the engine, excluding that in the radiator. The cooling system comprises the radiator, top and bottom water hoses, heater hoses (if heater/demister fitted), the impeller water pump, (mounted on the front of the engine it carries the fan blades and is driven by the fan belt), the thermostat and the two drain taps.

2 Cooling system - draining 1 With the car on level ground drain the system as follows: 2 If the engine is cold, remove the filler cap from the radiator by turning the cap anticlockwise. If the engine is hot, having just been run, then turn the filler cap very slightly until the pressure in the system has had time to disperse. Use a rag over the cap to protect your hand from escaping steam. If, with the engine very hot, the cap is released suddenly, the drop in pressure can result in the water boiling. With the pressure released, the cap can be removed. 3 If antifreeze is in the radiator, drain it into a clean bucket or bowl for re-use. 4 Detach the bottom hose from its union on the radiator, and remove the block drain plug. The cylinder-4a{ock drain plug will be found on the right hand side of the block (photo). 5 When the water has finished running, probe the cylinder block drain plug orifice to dislodge any sediment which may be blocking the orifice and preventing all the water draining out. Note: Draining the radiator will not drain the cylinder block fully — this is why a separate plug is incorporated in the block.

3 Cooling system - flushing 1 With time the cooling system will gradually lose its efficiency as the radiator becomes choked with rust scales, deposits from water and other sediment. To clean the system out, remove the radiator cap and detach the bottom hose from its union on the radiator. Leave a hose running in the radiator cap orifice for ten to fifteen minutes. 2 In very bad cases the radiator should be reverse flushed. This can be done with the radiator in position. Detach the bottom hose from the radiator, and remove the radiator cap; then, place a garden hose in the bottom hose orifice of the radiator. Water under pressure, is then forced up through the radiator and out of the header tank filler orifice. 3 The hose is then removed and placed in the filler orifice and the radiator washed out in the usual fashion.

4

2.4a Disconnect the radiator bottom hose

1 Replace the bottom hose and the cylinder block drain plug. 2 Fill the system slowly to ensure that air locks are minimised. If a heater is fitted it will be necessary to disconnect the outlet hose at the connector and fill up through the pipe to force air out of the heater matrix. 3 Do not fill the system higher than within \ in of the filler orifice. Overfilling will merely result in wastage, which is especially to be avoided when antifreeze is in use. 4 Only use antifreeze mixture with an ethylene glycol base. 5 Refit the filler cap and turn it firmly clockwise to lock it in position.

5

2.4b Cylinder block drain plug location

Cooling system - filling

Radiator — removal, inspection, cleaning and refitting

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Section 2. 2 Undo the clip which holds the top water hose to the header tank and pull it off (photo). 3 Unclip the hose from the bottom of the radiator. 4 Remove the bolts (three each side) which hold the side plates and radiator to the body frame. 5 Lift the radiator complete with plates from the car (photo). 6 With the radiator removed from the car any leaks can be soldered up or repaired. An unfortunate fault on some models is the fragile nature of the upper and lower radiator tank sections where the hose pipe unions are soldered in. With time they have been known to fracture due to the rocking motion of the flexibly mounted engine - or, of course, with rough handling when removing the flexible rubber hoses. If this occurs, remove the radiator and resolder the joint, running in a reinforcing fillet of solder. This reduces the flexibility of the thin tank material of the joint. Clean out the inside of the radiator by flushing as described in Section 3. When the radiator is out of the car, it is well worthwhile to invert it for reverse flushing. Clean the exterior of the radiator by hosing down the matrix (honeycomb cooling material) with a strong water jet to clear away embedded dirt and insects which will impede the air flow.

49

Chapter 2 Cooling system

5.5 Lifting out the radiator

7 If it is thought that the radiator may be partially blocked, a good proprietary chemical product should be used to clear it. 8 Inspect the radiator hoses for cracks, internal or external perishing, and damage caused by overtightening of the securing clips. Replace the hoses as necessary. Examine the radiator hose securing clips and renew them if they are rusted or distorted. The drain taps should be renewed if leaking, but ensure the leak is not caused by a faulty washer first to see if this clears the trouble. 9 If the radiator is defective or damaged beyond repair, a new replacement will be the only answer. It should be noted that the early type radiators were of the 'film block' design type whilst later models are of the 'tube and centre' type. If replacing an early type with a later type, the later type filler cap with an opening pressure of 12 to 1 5.75 lbf/in2 must be used and the coolant capacity will be reduced by 1 pint (0.568 litre). 10 Refitting is simply a reversal of the removal procedure. When the system is refilled, run the engine up to its normal operating tem¬ perature and check for signs of leaks from the radiator and hoses.

6

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting

1 To remove the thermostat, partially drain the cooling system (four pints is enough), loosen the upper radiator hose at the thermostat elbow end and pull it off the elbow. 2 Unscrew the two set bolts and spring washers from the thermostat housing and lift the housing and paper gasket away.

Fig. 2.3 The two thermostat types used (Sec 6) Fig. 2.2 The two radiator types showing (1) the tube and centre type (later models) and (2) the film block type (early models) (Sec 5)

7 The bellows type — early models 2 The capsule type — late models Measure opening at A or B as applicable

50

Chapter 2 Cooling system

6.3 Remove the thermostat

6.7 New thermostat and housing gasket in position

3 Remove the thermostat and suspend it by a piece of string in a saucepan of cold water together with a thermometer. Neither the thermostat nor the thermometer should touch the bottom of the saucepan, to ensure a false reading is not given. 4 Heat the water, stirring it gently to ensure temperature uniformity, and note when the thermostat begins to open. The temperature at which this should open together with the opening dimensions are given in the Specifications. 5 Discard the thermostat if it opens too early. Continue heating the water until the thermostat is fully open. Then let it cool down naturally. If the thermostat will not open fully in boiling water, or does not close down as the water cools, then it must be replaced with a new one. If a thermostat is unserviceable it is better to run without one rather than with one which is faulty.

2 Although it is possible to dismantle and repair the water pump unit, spare parts may not be readily available. It may therefore be advantageous to dismantle and overhaul the pump but to replace it with a new unit. If parts are known to be available however, proceed as follows.

6 If the thermostat is stuck open when cold, this will be apparent when removing it from the housing. 7 Replacing the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure. Remember to use a new paper gasket between the thermostat housing elbow and the thermostat. Renew the thermostat elbow if it is badly eaten away. Ensure that the thermostat jiggle pin is located at the higher point of the thermostat housing.

7 Water pump - removal and refitting 1 2 the 3

Partially drain the cooling system as given in Section 2. Undo the clips which hold the hoses to the water pump and pull hoses off. Remove the fan belt.

4 Undo the six bolts which hold the pump body to the cylinder block. Lift the water pump away and remove the gasket. Whilst the pump is removed it is a good idea to check the condition of the water distributor tube in the cylinder head behind the pump. The tube can be withdrawn for cleaning or renewal. 5 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of the removal sequence Note: The fan belt tension must be correct when all is reassembled. If the belt is too tight undue strain will be placed on the water pump and alternator bearings, and if the belt is too loose it will slip and wear rapidly as well as giving rise to low electrical output from the generator.

8 Water pump - dismantling and reassembly 1 Having removed the assembly from the engine complete with fan, remove the fan and drive pulley by unscrewing the four bolts and washers.

3 In order to get at the seal the rotor must be drawn off the shaft. There is no satisfactory way of doing this other than by using a puller - preferably one with two split claws so that the strain can be put onto the rotor astride the vanes which are the strongest part. If the rotor is a particularly tight fit any other way of attempting to remove it will probably break it. 4 With the rotor off, the seal can be withdrawn. Examine the seal seat on the body of the pump for damage or pitting. Later models have a two part seal with a plastic seal face. 5 If the shaft/bearing assembly needs to be renewed (due to excessive play in the bearings) it can now be removed. First lift out the locking ring and then heat the body of the pump in water to 82°C (1 80° F). The shaft can then be drifted out complete with flange, at the flange end of the body. When out, press or drift off the flange. 6 Reassembly sequence is in the reverse order, but care must be taken to fit everything back in certain positions. 7 If the shaft assembly is being renewed, first of all press the flange on to the shorter end of the new shaft. 8 Ensure that the flange boss is towards the end of the shaft and that the outer face of the flange is 3.46 in (88 mm) from the end of the body. 9 Reheat the pump body and install the shaft and bearing so that the groove in the bearing coincides with the groove in the body bore. Refit the locking ring. 10 Smear the face of the new seal and also around the body bore with the recommended grease, and install the seal. Note that the seal has a sleeve in the centre and this must be engaged properly. There are corresponding pips and grooves. 11 Press on the rotor (vanes inwards) so that the clearance between the flat face of the rotor and the pump body is as shown in Fig. 2.6. Fit a new gasket when refitting the pump on the block.

9 Antifreeze coolant solution 1 Where temperatures are likely to drop below freezing point, the coolant system must be adequately protected by the addition of antifreeze. Even if you keep the engine warm at night it is possible for water to freeze in the radiator with the engine running in very cold conditions. The thermostat stays closed and the radiator water does not circulate. 2

It is best to drain the coolant completely and flush out the system

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is -S 3 !s rake caliper components (Sec 5) 1 2 3 4 5

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Disc shield Bolt to knuckle Bolt to knuckle Bolt to knuckle Lockwasher

6 7 8 9 10

Locknut Piston Inner seal Seal and retainer Caliper bolt

11 12 13 14

Bleed drilling plug Bleed screw Fluid channel seal Friction pad

15 16 17 18

Anti-squeal shim Pad retaining pin Caliper bolt to knuckle Lockwasher

Chapter 9 Braking system

7

115

Disc brakes - disc run-out check

1 If the disc does not run true, then it will tend to push the disc pads aside and force the pistons further into the caliper. This will increase the brake pedal travel necessary to apply the brakes, apart from impairing brake efficiency and the life of the pads. 2 To check the disc run-out (trueness), jack-up the car and remove the wheel. Ensure the hub bearing has no free float in it. 3 Set a dial gauge micrometer on a firm stand up to a friction face of the disc, near the outside edge, so that a reading above 0.004 in (0.10 mm) is registered on the gauge. 4 Spin the hub and if the gauge registers more than ±0.004 in, the disc is warped and needs renewal. 5 To remove the disc(s) refer to Chapter 11, Section 11. Fig. 9.10 Girling disc brake - anti-squeal shims showing the early (A) and late (B) types (Sec 5)

10 It may be possible to pull the pistons out of their bores, but if not, it will be necessary to blow them out with pressure from an air pump hose attached to the hydraulic fluid inlet port. Support one piston while the other is blown out and then block the empty cylinder with a cloth while the other comes out. If one piston moves very slowly, remove this one before the other. If one piston moves very slowly, remove this one before the other. If one piston does not move at all, it will have seized in the cylinder. Use a hydraulic cleaning fluid, or methylated spirits, to soak it for some time in an attempt to free it. 11 With the pistons removed, the fluid seal rings may be eased out of the piston grooves with a small screwdriver. Make sure that the piston and groove are not damaged. Examine the bores and pistons for signs of scoring or scuffing. If severe, it is unlikely that a proper fluid seal will be possible and a new caliper assembly may be required. The part of the piston on the pad side of the seal groove may be cleaned up with steel wool' if necessary. Take care to leave no traces of steel wool anywhere. Clean the cylinder bores also, using hydraulic cleaning fluid if possible, or methylated spirits otherwise. 12 Reassembly is an exact reversal of the dismantling process, taking care with the following in particular: 13 Ensure that the new fluid seal is seated properly in its groove. 14 The caliper mounting bolts have a nylon locking insert in the threads. If this is the third time of removal, then the bolts should be renewed. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Refit the pads as described in Section 5, remove the reservoir cap seal and bleed the system. 1 5 Cars fitted with disc brakes made by Lockheed are basically the same in operating principle. Two particular items to be noted on reassembly are the piston dust seal and the piston itself. The grooved rubber dust seal is located in a recess in the mouth of the cylinder bore and is kept there by a retaining ring. The piston has a cut-away portion on its outer edge, and this must face down and rearwards as shown in Fig. 9.11 when the piston is pressed back into the cylinder. Care must be taken, when refitting the dust seal and retainer, to ensure that they go in square and undistorted.

8 Hydraulic system hoses and connections - inspection and renewal 1 Periodically, and certainly well before the next MOT test is due, all brake pipes, pipe connections and unions should be completely and carefully examined. 2 First examine for signs of leakage at the pipe unions. Then examine the flexible hoses for signs of chafing and fraying and, of course, leakage. This is only a preliminary part of the flexible hose inspection, as exterior appearance does not necessarily indicate their interior condition which will be considered later. 3 The steel pipes must be examined equally carefully. They must be cleaned off and examined for any signs of dents, or other damage and rust and corrosion. Rust and corrosion should be scraped off and if the depth of pitting in the pipes is significant, they will need replacement. This is particularly likely in those areas underneath the body and along the rear axle where the pipes are exposed to the full force of the road and weather conditions. 4 If any section of pipe is to be taken off, first of all remove the fluid reservoir cap and line it with a piece of polythene film to make it air tight, and replace it. This will minimise the amount of fluid dripping out of the system, when pipes are removed, by preventing the replacement of fluid by air in the reservoir.

Steel (rigid) pipes removal 5 Rigid pipe removal is usually quite straightforward. The unions at each end are undone and the pipe and union pulled out and the centre sections of the pipe removed from the body clips where necessary. Underneath the vehicle exposed unions can sometimes be very tight. As one can use only an open ended spanner and the unions are not large, burring of the flats is not uncommon when attempting to undo them. For this reason a self locking grip wrench is often the only way to remove a stubborn union. 6 Rigid pipes which need replacement can usually be purchased at any local garage where they have the pipe, unions and special tools to make them up. All they need to know is the total length of the pipe, and the type of flare used at each end with the union. This is very important as one can have a flare and a mushroom on the same pipe.

Flexible hoses removal

Fig. 9.11 Lockheed disc brake caliper assembly showing relieved section of piston (A) in relation to front of car (arrowed) (Sec 6)

7 Flexible hoses are always mounted at both ends in a rigid bracket attached to the body or sub-assembly (photo). To remove them it is necessary first of all to unscrew the pipe unions of the rigid pipes which go into them. Then, with a spanner on the hexagonal end of the flexible pipe union, the locknut and washer on the other side of the mounting bracket need to be removed. Here again exposure to the elements often tends to seize the locknut and in this case the use of penetrating oil or fluid is necessary. The mounting brackets, particu¬ larly on the bodyframe, are not very heavy gauge and care must be taken not to wrench them off. A self-grip wrench is often of use here as well. Use it on the pipe union in this instance as one is able to get a ring spanner on the locknut. 8 With the flexible hose removed, examine the internal bore. If it is blown through first, it should be possible to see through it. Any specks of rubber which come out, or signs of restriction in the bore, mean that the inner lining is breaking up and the pipe must be renewed.

116

Chapter 9 Braking system

8.7 Flexible hose and its retaining bracket

Pipes and hoses refitting 9 Refitting of pipes is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure. If the rigid pipes have been made up it is best to get all the sets (or bends) in them before trying to install them. Also if there are any acute bends, ask your supplier to put these in for you on a tube bender. Otherwise you may kink the pipe and thereby restrict the bore area and fluid flow. 10 Check that the pipes and hoses are so positioned when fitted that they do not chafe against any steering or suspension components. 11 With the pipes refitted, remove the polythene film from the reservoir cap (paragraph 4), and bleed the system as described in Section 13. It is not necessary always to bleed at all four wheels. It depends which pipe has been removed. Obviously if the main one from the master cylinder is removed, air could have reached any line from the later distribution of pipes. If, however, a flexible hose at a front wheel is replaced, only that wheel needs to be bled. When bleeding disc brake circuits, it is only necessary to bleed from the upper bleed pipe of the two fitted to each caliper.

9 Drum brake operating (slave) cylinder(s) - dismantling and servicing 1 if it is suspected that a wheel cylinder is malfunctioning, jack-up

the suspect wheel and remove the brake drum (see Section 4). 2 Inspect for signs of fluid leakage around the wheel cylinder, and if there are any, proceed with instructions at paragraph 4. 3 Next get someone to very gently press the brake pedal a small distance. On rear brakes watch the wheel cylinder to see that the piston moves out a little. On no account allow it to come right out or you will have to reassemble it and bleed the system. Then release the pedal and ensure that the shoe springs force the piston back. On front brakes, block the shoe on each cylinder in turn with a piece of wood and see that the other one moves in and out as the pedal is depressed and released. Do not let the piston move too far out. 4 A wheel cylinder where there is leaking fluid or which does not move at all will have to be fitted with new seals at least. 5 Remove the brake shoes as described in Section 4 and seal the fluid reservoir cap as described in Section 8, paragraph 4. Refer to Fig. 9.6 for an exploded view of the brake and cylinder components. 6 Remove the rubber dust cover and clip from the end of the cylinder, and draw out the piston (or pistons - Lockheed rear brakes), on the inner end of which a seal will be fitted. On front brake cylinders only draw out the spring behind the piston. Note: Lockheed rear brakes can be identified by a rubber boot fitted over the handbrake lever on the flange plate. 7 If the piston is seized in the cylinder it may be very difficult to remove, in which case it may be quicker in the long run to remove the cylinder and renew it complete - see Section 10. 8 Examine the bores of the wheel cylinder(s). Any sign of scoring or ridging in the walls where the piston seal travel means that the cylinder should be removed and renewed (Section 10). 9 If the cylinder is in good condition it will be necessary to replace only the seal on the piston(s). Pull the old one off and carefully fit a new one over the long boss of the piston, engaging it over the raised rim. The lip of the seal must face away from the centre of the piston. Manipulate new seals into position using fingers only. 10 If the old seal shows signs of swelling and deterioration, rather than just wear on the lip, it indicates that the hydraulic fluid in the system may have been contaminated. In such cases all the fluid must be removed from the system and ail seals renewed, including those in the master cylinder. Flexible hoses should be checked too (Section 8). 11 Clean out the interior of the cylinder with a dry cloth and ensure the piston is quite clean. 12 Before refitting the piston(s) into the cylinder, dip them in clean hydraulic fluid to ease insertion and prevent distortion of the seals. On the front wheel cylinders, do not forget to locate the coil spring before fitting the piston. 13 Relocate the shoe guide clip (front only) and then refit the cylinder unit dust cover. 14 The brake shoes and drums can now be refitted as given in Section 4. The temporary fluid reservoir cap seal can never be removed and the hydraulic fluid level topped-up and bled as given in Section 13. 15 Check the brakes for adjustment as given in Section 2.

f---

Fig. 9.13 Sectional view of the front brake cylinder (early type) (Sec 9)

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117

Chapter 9 Braking system (b) 10 Drum brake operating (slave) cylinder(s) - removal and refitting 1 Remove the brake drum and brake shoes from the wheel concerned as given in Section 4. 2 On the rear brakes, disconnect the handbrake cable from its shoe lever attachment. 3 Refer to Section 5, paragraph 4 and seal the master cylinder reservoir cap as described, then unscrew the hydraulic pipe connection from the wheel cylinder. Plug the end of the pipe when detached to prevent the ingress of dirt.

(c)

On rear brakes, lubricate each side of the brake flange plate, on which the cylinder slides, with a thin film of brake grease. Similarly lubricate the handbrake shoe lever fulcrum pin. Fit the cylinder to the flange plate with the brake shoe lever fitted, then locate the spring plate (convex side to flange plate) from the cylinder forward end. The retaining plate is then pushed into position from the rear, whilst holding the spring plate in position, and the location pips engaged Use a new E-ring to secure the Lockheed rear brake cylinder. If available use special installer No. 4171 -955 to fit it in order to prevent distortion

Fig. 9.14 Sectional view of the rear brake cylinder assembly early type (Sec 10)

4 On front brakes, undo the two cylinder retaining bolts and remove them with their lockwashers. Withdraw the cylinder and seal ring (Girling) or gasket (Lockheed). 5 On the rear brakes, use a small screwdriver to prise free the cylinder retaining plate, remove the spring plate and withdraw the cylinder. Where Lockheed rear brakes are fitted the cylinder is secured by a single E-clip and is located in the flange plate by a dowel. The bleed screw must be removed before the cylinder can be withdrawn. 6 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removal sequence, but note the following special points: (a) On front brake cylinders, always use a new seal ring or gasket (see para. 4), and locate it over the pipe union boss before fitting the cylinder

1 2 3 4 5

Piston Piston - large diameter (disc brakes only) Seal Seal -(disc brakes only) Spring

6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Spring retainer Valve stem Spacer Seal - valve Washer Circlip Dust cover

13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Fig. 9.15 Using special tool no. 4171-955 to fit the E-ring into position to retain the Lockheed wheel cylinder (Sec 10)

11

Master cylinder (single line) - removal, servicing and refitting

1 Unless there are obvious signs of leakage, any defects in the master cylinder are usually the last to be detected in a hydraulic system.

Reservoir cap Washer Push rod Bolts & washers, Bolts & washers, Bolts & washers, Bolts & washers,

mounting mounting mounting mounting

20 21 22 23

Clevis pin Washer Clevis pin bushes Supplementary reservoir (disc brakes) 24 Washer

118

Chapter 9 Braking system

Fig. 9.17 Sectional view of single line master cylinder {Sec 11)

2 Before assuming that a fault in the system is in the master cylinder, the pipes and wheel cylinders should all be checked and examined as described in previous Sections. 3 To remove the master cylinder, first disconnect the pipe at the four-way connector which comes from it. 4 Drain the master cylinder by pumping the brake pedal and collect the fluid at the end of the disconnected pipe. Then remove the pipe by undoing the union at the master cylinder end. 5 Remove the clevis pin from the brake pedal which attaches the pushrod from the master cylinder. 6 Remove the bolts and nuts which hold the master cylinder to the pedal support bracket and lift it out. 7 To dismantle the cylinder, first ease off the rubber dust cover from the end of the cylinder to expose the circlip. 8 Unclip the circlip from inside the end of the cylinder body and withdraw the pushrod, circlip, retaining washer and dust cover, all together. 9 The piston and valve assembly should now be taken out, or shaken out. If it sticks, try forcing air through the outlet port of the cylinder. 10 To remove the spring from the piston, prise up the tab on the spring retainer which engages in a shoulder on the end of the piston. The spring, spring retainer and valve assembly can then be detached from the piston. 11 To remove the valve stem from the spring retainer, compress the spring and move the stem out of the slotted hole in the retainer. 12 Withdraw the valve stem from the valve spacer, taking care not to damage or lose the spring shim washer.

13 Remove the gland seal from the piston and the valve seal from the valve stem. 14 Clean all parts in hydraulic cleaning fluid or methylated spirits and examine the cylinder bore for signs of ridges and scores. If in doubt, renew the cylinder. 15 Both rubber seals should be renewed. Assemble the valve seal, shim washer and spacer to the stem. 16 Fit a new gland seal with the lip towards the piston spigot. 17 Assemble the valve stem to the spring and retainer, and then locate the retainer over the piston spigot. 18 Press the retainer tab into the piston recess. 19 Smear the outer end of the piston and the cylinder mouth with the special grease usually provided with the new seals (no other is to be used except castor oil based rubber grease) and insert the piston and valve assembly into the cylinder bore with care. 20 Refit the pushrod assembly and engage thehtirclip in the cylinder mouth recess fully. Refit the dust cover. 21 The cylinder is refitted to the car in the reverse order of removal. Ensure that the brake pedal clevis pin is installed with the head between the clutch and brake pedals and that the bushes engage the clevis on the pushrod. 22 Reconnect the hydraulic pipe and bleed the system as given in Section 13.

12 Master cylinder (tandem) - removal, servicing and refitting 1 For a limited period only, some models were fitted with a tandem master cylinder to provide a dual circuit braking system where disc brakes were used at the front wheels. The advantage of this system is that in the event of a failure in either the front or rear brake circuits, the vehicle can still be stopped by the brakes of the functioning circuit although the braking efficiency is reduced. 2 Unless there are obvious signs of leakage, any defects in the master cylinder are usually the last to be detected in a hydraulic system. 3 Before assuming that a fault in the system is in the master cylinder, the pipes and wheel cylinders should all be checked and examined as described in Sections 8, 5 and 9. 4 To remove the master cylinder, first disconnect the pipes which come from it. 5 Remove the clevis pin from the brake pedal which attaches the pushrod from the master cylinder. 6 Remove the bolts and nuts which hold the master cylinder to the pedal support bracket and lift it out. (On models fitted with a servo unit the master cylinder is bolted to the servo body. Take care not to spill fluid when draining the unit and drain it all into a container as soon as possible afterwards). 7 Pull off the fluid reservoir from the cylinder body by lifting it straight up. 8 To dismantle the cylinder, remove the circlip from the end of the bore. The primary piston may then be drawn out. On models with a servo unit, a spring follows and behind this is the secondary piston. 9 Before the secondary piston can come out, the rubber seal and stop pin must be lifted out of the secondary inlet port. The pin is a loose fit, but the piston will need pushing forward a fraction against the spring to release it. The secondary piston and spring may then be tapped out.

Fig. 9.18 Master cylinder valve assembly - sectional view (Sec 11)

Fig. 9.19 Cross section of piston, seal and spring retainer {Sec 11)

10 Examine the cylinder bore for signs of scoring or other deteriora¬ tion and, if in doubt, renew it. It is assumed that the seals on the pistons will be renewed anyway - it would be pointless not to renew them. 11 The front seals on the primary and secondary pistons are not the same. See that the lips of the seals on the primary piston both face into the cylinder, whereas those on the secondary piston face outwards from the centre of the piston. 12 The piston spring(s) have washers fitted at one end and these should go over the spigots on the ends of the pistons. 13 Some master cylinders are fitted with a pressure warning lamp device. This is a piston maintained in equilibrium by the two halves of the pressurised system. If the pressure of one half should drop, the piston moves and operates a switch. To remove the piston assembly, undo the plug in the end of the master cylinder and also the actuator switch. The piston can then be tapped out. 14 Reassembly of the cylinder is a reversal of the removal procedure.

119

Chapter 9 Braking system

Fig. 9.20 Lockheed tandem master cylinder components-exploded view (Sec 12) 1 2 3 4 5 6

Primary piston Circlip Secondary piston Spring Retainer Spring

7 8 9 10 11

Seal Stop pin Seal Seal Pushrod seal

12 13 14 15 16

17 18 19 20 21

Fluid reservoir Seal Retaining screw Distance collar Adaptor

O-ring Seal Filler cap Nut Spring washer

Fig. 9.22 Hydraulic pressure warning indicator and switch (Sec 12)

Fig. 9.21 Tandem master cylinder pistons showing arrangement of seals (Sec 12) 1 2

Primary piston Secondary piston

Fig. 9.23 Primary piston inlet port adaptor and seals - cross section (Sec 12) 7 Reservoir seal ring 2 O-ring 3 Adaptor

1 2 3

Plug Actuator piston Switch

Take care to fit the pistons correctly, and do not let the lips of the seals turn back when guiding them into the cylinder. The cylinder bore should be lubricated with fluid. 1 5 The fluid reservoir should be fitted after the stop pin and seal have first been put into the secondary piston inlet port, and the adaptor with 0-ring into the primary inlet port. The seal which fits over the adaptor is best put into the reservoir aperture first. The seals and pipe on the reservoir should be well lubricated with fluid before pressing the reservoir into place. 16 Replace the unit to the mounting as appropriate and, when connecting up the outlet pipe unions, make sure that the rear brake connection goes to the single port at the end of the cylinder, the pipe from the left-hand front brake to the upper of the two remaining ports, and pipe from the right front brake to lower port. 1 7 Bleed the brake system and check for leaks at any of the unions.

13 Hydraulic system - bleeding 1 If any of the hydraulic components in the braking system have been removed or disconnected, or if the fluid level in the master cylinder has been allowed to fall appreciably, it is inevitable that air will

120

Chapter 9 Braking system

have been introduced into the system. The removal of all this air from the hydraulic system is essential if the brakes are to function correctly, and the process of removing it is known as bleeding. 2 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself, brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits should be used wherever possible as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation and also reduce the risk of expelled air being drawn back into the system. 3 If one of these kits is not available then it will be necessary to gather together a clean jar and a suitable length of clear plastic tubing which is a tight fit over the bleed screw, and also to engage the help of an assistant. 4 Before commencing the bleeding operation, check that all rigid pipes and flexible hoses are in good condition and that all hydraulic unions are tight. Take great care not to allow hydraulic fluid to come into contact with the vehicle paintwork, otherwise the finish will be seriously damaged. Wash off any spilled fluid immediately with cold water. 5 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the master cylinder, due to a leak in the system, ensure that the cause is traced and rectified before proceeding further or a serious malfunction of the braking system may occur. 6 To bleed the system, clean the area around the bleed screw at the wheel cylinder to be bled. If the hydraulic system has only been partially disconnected and suitable precautions were taken to prevent further loss of fluid, it should only be necessary to bleed that part of the system. However, if the entire system is to be bled, start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. On models fitted with front disc brakes, each caliper unit is fitted with two bleed screws. When the system is being bled it is important that only the upper bleed screw be used when bleeding the circuit. 7 Remove the master cylinder filler cap and top-up the reservoir. Periodically check the fluid level during the bleeding operation and top-up as necessary. 8 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is being used, connect the outlet tube to the bleed screw and then open the screw half a turn. If possible position the unit so that it can be viewed from the car, then depress the brake pedal to the floor and slowly release it. The one-way valve in the kit will prevent dispelled air from returning to the system at the end of each stroke. Repeat this operation until clean hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be seen coming through the tube. Now tighten the bleed screw and remove the outlet tube. 9 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is not available, connect one end of the plastic tubing to the bleed screw and immerse the other end in the jam jar containing sufficient clean hydraulic fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged. Open the bleed screw half a turn and have your assistant depress the brake pedal to the floor and then slowly release it. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of each downstroke to prevent expelled air and fluid from being drawn back into the system. Repeat this operation until clean hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be

seen coming through the tube. Now tighten the bleed screw and remove the plastic tube. 10 If the entire system is being bled the procedures described above should now be repeated at each wheel, finishing at the wheel nearest to the master cylinder. Do not forget to recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder at regular intervals and top-up as necessary. 11 When completed, recheck the fluid level in the master cylinder, top-up if necessary and refit the cap. Check the 'feel' of the brake pedal which should be firm and free from any 'sponginess' which would indicate air still present in the system. 12 Discard any expelled hydraulic fluid as it is likely to be con¬ taminated with moisture, air and dirt which makes it unsuitable for further use.

14 Brake pedal - removal and refitting 1 If for any reason (such as worn out bushes) the brake pedal needs to be removed, follow the procedures as described for the clutch pedal in Chapter 5, Section 4.

15 Handbrake cable - removal and refitting 1 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle so that both rear wheels are clear of the ground. As you will need to work underneath the vehicle support it each side with safety stands. Fully release the handbrake lever. 2 Working underneath the vehicle, detach the cable clevis each side from their connections to the brake shoe levers. 3 Remove the clevises from the cables. 4 Disconnect the longer cable (nearside) from the intermediate and forward guide brackets, and also from the bridle at the lower lever connection. 5 Detach the cables at the adjuster sleeve and withdraw the cables. 6 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removal sequence. Lubricate the clevises, the bridle and guides with grease. When fiited adjust the handbrake as given in Section 3.

16 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting 1 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle with safety stands each side. The rear wheels should be clear of the ground. 2 Working underneath the vehicle remove the water deflection shield from underneath the handbrake lever assembly. 3 Withdraw the clevis pin from the lever to cable bridle connection. The handbrake lever should be fully released. 4 Fold back the floor covering around the handbrake lever, then prise free and withdraw the lever gaiter and protectors. 5 Unscrew the lever unit retaining bolts and remove them together with the gaiter clips and washers then withdraw the lever. If necessary remove the gasket. 6 Refit in the reverse order of removal noting the following special points: (d)

(b)

Locate the gasket to the lever bracket using a neoprene adhesive and then insert the lever through its slot in the floor covering. When correctly positioned refit the retaining bolts with dips and washers. The front bolts have a shake proof washer fitted between the gaiter dip and lever flange When fitted check and adjust as necessary the handbrake as given in Section 3

17 Vacuum servo unit - general description

13.6 Clean dirt from bleed nipple before attaching the hose

1 The vacuum servo unit is incorporated with a master cylinder and is operated directly from the brake pedal. It acts on all four wheels. When the pedal is depressed, suction from the induction manifold of the engine is applied to the piston inside the large cylindrical bowl of the servo unit. The piston then moves a plunger, attached to its centre, applying additional pressure to the hydraulic roaster cylinder piston. If the servo unit should fail to operate, pressure from the foot pedal is still applied to the system but, of course, the pedal pressure required

r

121

Fig. 9.24 Handbrake lever assembly and cable (Sec 15) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Grid Button Spring Felt washer Steel washer Rod Pawt Rivet Ratchet

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Rivet Mounting bracket R.H. Mounting bracket L.H. Rivet Gasket Bolt Washer Plate

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Gaiter Protector Clip (gaiter) Clip (gaiter) Sleeve Cable (long) Cable (short) Nut

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

Bridle Clevis pin Washer Clevis Clevis pin Washer Bracket Cable guide

Fig. 9.26 Servo unit - cross section view (Sec 17)

V

122

Chapter 9 Braking system

Fig. 9.27 Tool dimensions to enable servo unit to be serviced (Sec 17) Left: Slave flange Centre: Cover removal tool Right: Cover sea! renewal mandrel

will be more than it would be if the servo was functioning. The unit is mounted on brackets fitted to the pedal supports. 2 Servicing can be carried out but certain special tools are needed, although these can, of course, be made up by an enthusiast with reasonable facilities. The tools needed are for correct removal of the cover which has a bayonet type fixing into the shell, and a flange on which the master cylinder can be mounted to hold the whole unit firmly in a vice.

18 Vacuum servo unit - checking, dismantling, servicing and reassembly 1 The filter can be changed by drawing back the rubber boot from the end cover and withdrawing the retainer ring. The filter pad must be cut to remove it from the pushrod, as must the new one prior to fitting. Make sure the retainer is pressed back fully and the rubber boot properly engaged with five lugs on the end cover. To remove the unit, disconnect the vacuum pipe and the hydraulic pipes from the master cylinder and undo the mounting stud units. 2 Before beginning dismantling, obtain a complete repair kit which will contain the necessary seals and diaphragm needed to recondition the unit. If in any doubt, it may be preferable to obtain an exchange unit. 3 Having removed the unit from the vehicle together with the master cylinder, attach the cover removal tool to the four mounting studs and clamp one leg of the tool in the vice. Undo the nuts securing the master cylinder and take it off. It is possible at this stage to check the setting of the servo pushrod. It is critical and needs careful measurement with a suitable straight edge of gauge. The correct

projection is 0.408 in (10.3 mm) and must be accurate to within 0.005 in (0.12 mm). If incorrect, proceed with dismantling in order to adjust it. Remove the rubber mounting and then fit the slave flange on the studs in its place and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. 4 Release the cover removal tool from the vice and clamp the whole assembly instead, by gripping the slave flange in the vice. 5 Mark the relative positions of the shell end cover and turn the cover removal tool anticlockwise whilst maintaining pressure, until the cover can be released and the spring pressure relieved. 6 Remove the return spring stop from the shell. Leave the pushrod where it is. 7 Remove the slave flange from the master cylinder mounting studs and carefully push out the master cylinder seal and seal retainer. Take off the cover removal tool, and the pushrod retainer can be prised out of the valve body to release the rod. Pull off the rubber boot and take the filter retainer out of the valve body. Then separate the filter pad and valve from the end cover. 8 The valve bearing, seal and retainer may be prised out of the end cover. 9 Remove the diaphragm from the valve body and by holding it with the key downwards, the valve rod and plunger assembly can be released when pressing the valve rod in. If this assembly is suspect it must be renewed. 10 Push out the reaction disc with a pencil from the valve body. 11 The pushrod adjuster can be turned if the stem is gripped in a vice near the head. One complete revolution represents approximately 0.035 inch. If the adjuster requires less than 5 Ib/in to turn it, it is too loose and a new one is required. 12 All parts should be cleaned with brake fluid and kept scrupulously clean and free from any bits of fluff that could come from certain types of cleaning cloth.

Mg. 9.28 Servo unit components - exploded view (Sec 1 2 3

Suction pipe union and non-return valve Body shell Return spring

4 5 6 7

Piston rod Seal Piston Piston rod locking plate

8 Diaphragm 9 Seal assembly 10 End cover

11 Push rod assembly 12 Filter 13 Push rod and filter co ver

^

Chapter 9 Braking system 13 Where lubricant is necessary, use only Lockheed Disc Brake lubricant. Lubricate valve rod and plunger, check that it is seating centrally and insert assembly into the valve body. 14 Refit the key, using light pressure on the valve rod to secure it in the body. 1 5 Fit the new diaphragm to the valve body making sure the centre sits properly in its groove. 16 Lubricate the reaction disc and put it back in the valve bore using the pushrod to seat it. 1 7 To fit the new end cover seal, bearing and retainer, it is best to use a mandrel of the type illustrated. The lips of the seal should face away from the bearing ring and the flat side of the retainer goes in first. 18 Put the valve body into the end cover and put the filter over the forked end of the valve rod. Refit retainer and boot. 1 9 Fit the tool to the cover, once more, and the slave flange. Engage the spring stop in swollen end of the spring, and put it in the shell so that the recesses lock in position on the heads of the master cylinder mounting studs. 20 Lubricate the edge of the diaphragm where it will contact the lip

123

of the shell and cover, and then line up the cover to the shell on the marks made previously. Dress the cover down carefully so as not to trap the diaphragm and turn it clockwise until it is up against the stops. 21 Remove the slave flange and insert the pushrod head into the valve body applying only enough pressure to seat it against the reaction disc. 22 Check the pushrod projection, as mentioned earlier, and if correct, press in the retainer using a piece of tube. Do not use excessive pressure. Then put the metal retainer in the shell over the pushrod, guarding against scratching the rod. Smear the rod with silicone grease and insert the rubber seal so that the pushrod adjuster and threads protrude. If this is not done properly, the shell could leak. It is most important also that the vent holes in the rubber seal are not blocked with any traces of dirt or lubricant, otherwise air mght find its way into the master cylinder. 23 Before fitting the master cylinder in position, note the position of the vacuum hose connection which should be at 5 o'clock with the reservoir in the upright position. Press the master cylinder well home into its rubber seal before fitting the washers and nuts.

19 Fault diagnosis - braking system

Before diagnosing faults from the following chart, check that any braking irregularities are not caused by: 1 Uneven and incorrect tyre pressures. NOTE: For vehicles fitted with disc brakes at the front the references in the chart to front 2 Incorrect 'mix' of radial and cross-ply tyres. wheel shoe adjustments do not apply. The 'Reason/s' referring to hydraulic system faults 3 Wear in the steering mechanism. or wear to the friction material of the linings still apply, however. Disc pads also come in 4 Defects in the suspension and dampers. different material and references to variations are also relevant. 5 Misalignment of the body frame. Symptom

Reason(s) t

Pedal travels a long way before the brakes operate

Brake shoes set too far from the drums

Stopping ability poor, even though pedal pressure is firm

Linings and/or drums badly worn or scored Failure of one circuit in the dual hydraulic system One or more wheel hydraulic cylinders seized, resulting in some brake shoes not pressing against the drums (or pads against discs) Brake linings contaminated with oil Wrong type of linings fitted (too hard) Brake shoes wrongly assembled Servo unit not functioning (disc brakes)

Car veers to one side when the brakes are applied

Brake pads or linings on one side are contaminated with oil Hydraulic wheel cylinder(s) on one side partially or fully seized A mixture of lining materials fitted between sides Unequal wear between sides caused by partially seized wheel cylin¬ ders

Pedal feels spongy when the brakes are applied

Air is present in the hydraulic system

Pedal feels springy when the brakes are applied

Brake linings not bedded into the drums (after fitting new ones) Master cylinder or brake backplate mounting bolts loose Severe wear in brake drums causing distortion when brakes are applied

Pedal travels right down with little or no resistance and brakes are virtually non-operative. (With dual braking systems this would be extraordinary as both systems would have to fail at the same time)

Leak in hydraulic systems resulting in lack of pressure for operating wheel cylinders If no signs of leakage are apparent all the master cylinder internal seals are failing to sustain pressure

Binding, juddering, overheating

One or a combination of causes given in the foregoing sections

Chapter 10 Electrical system Contents Alternator - description and safety precautions. Alternator - dismantling and inspection. Alternator - fault diagnosis. Alternator - removal, refitting and belt adjustment. Battery - maintenance and inspection. Battery - removal and refitting. Battery charging. Battery electrolyte replenishment. Control box armature/core gaps and cut-out contact gap setting (dynamo). Current regulator (dynamo) - checks and adjustments. Cut-out and regulator contacts - maintenance. Cut-out (dynamo) - checks and adjustments. Dynamo - dismantling and inspection. Dynamo - removal and refitting. Dynamo - repair and reassembly. Dynamo - routine maintenance. Dynamo - testing in position. Fault diagnosis - electrical system. Flasher circuits - fault tracing and rectification. Front side/indicator lights - bulb renewal. Fuel/water temperature gauge unit - removal and refitting. Fuses. General description. Fleadlamp and bulb - removal and refitting.

16 19 17 18 2 5 4

3 15

14 11 13 9 8 10 6 7

48 29 33 42 28 1

31

Headlights - adjustment. Horn - fault tracing and rectification. Ignition and starter switch - removal and refitting. Interior light(s) - bulb renewal. Instrument panel - removal and refitting. Lights/windscreen wiper switch panel - removal and refitting. Rear combination lights - removal and renewal. Rear number plate light - bulb renewal. Speedometer - removal and refitting. Starter motor M35 G/1 — dismantling and reassembly. Starter motor M35 G/1 — general description. Starter motor M35 G/1 - removal and refitting. Starter motor M35 G/1 - testing in vehicle. Starter motor M35 J/1 — dismantling and reassembly. Starter motor M35 J/1 - general description. Starter motor M35 J/1 - removal and refitting. Steering column indicator/horn switch - removal and refitting .... Stop light switch. Voltage regulator (dynamo) - checks and adjustments. Windscreen washer - fault finding. Windscreen wiper motor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly. Windscreen wiper motor - refitting. Windscreen wiper motor - removal. Windscreen wiper motor - self parking adjustment.

Specifications

Battery Type - early models Standard. Heavy duty. Capacity at 20 hour rate: Standard. Heavy duty. Late models 6 cwt model. 8 cwt model. Capacity at 20 hour rate: 6 cwt model . 8 cwt model . Large capacity battery - Post Office vans Capacity at 20 hour rate. Earth.

Exide 6.VTM9L or Lucas BHN9/9A-8 Exide 6.VTM1 1 L 32 amp hour 51 amp hour Exide 6.VTA 7BR Type 111 or Lucas BH7/9 Exide 6. VTAZ 9BR Type 131 or Lucas BH9 32 amp hour 39 amp hour Exide 6. VTA 11 BR Type 161 55 amp hour Positive - dynamo equipped models Negative - alternator equipped models

Dynamo - early models only Make and model Standard. Heavy duty. Maximum output Standard.

Lucas C40 or C40/1 Lucas C40L 22 amps at 2.250 rpm at 13.5 volts

32 30 27 36 40 39 34 35 47 23 20 22 21 26 24 25 38 37

12 43 46 47 45

44

125

Chapter 10 Electrical system Heavy duty. Number of brushes. Minimum permissible brush length. Brush length new. Drive belt tension. Minimum commutator diameter after refacing Moulded commutator. Fabricated commutator - undercut depth (maximum) Fabricated commutator - minimum diameter. Cut-in speed Standard. Heavy duty. Field resistance.

25 amps at 2.275 rpm at 13.5 volts

2 0.28 in (7.1 mm) 0.718 in (1.8 mm) 0.50 in (12.7 mm) midway between the fan and dynamo pulley (with 91b loading) 1.450 1.430 0.030 1.385

in in in in

(36.8 (36.3 (0.76 (35.1

mm) mm) after October 1966 mm) mm)

1450 rpm at 13 volts 1350 rpm at 13 volts 6 ohms

Regulator control box - dynamo models Make and model. Cut in voitage. Reverse current - maximum... Current regulator load setting. Field resistance..... Voltage regulator.

Lucas RB.340, 12 volts 12.6 to 13.4 volts 8 amps 21 to 23 amps 55 to 65 ohms Air Temperature 10°C (50°F) 20°C (68°F) 30°C (86°F)

Volts 14.4 to 15.0 14.2 to 15.8 14.0 to 14.6

Current Regulator armature to core air gap Controller 37344 A, B or D. Controller 37344 E. Cut-out armature to core air gap. Voltage regulator armature to air core gap Controller 37344 A, B or D. Controller'37344 E ..

0.045 to 0.049 in (1.14 to 1.24 mm) 0.052 to 0.056 in (1.32 to 1.42 mm) 0.035 to 0.045 in (0.88 to 1.14 mm) 0.045 to 0.049 in (1.14 to 1.24 mm) 0.052 to 0.056 in (1.32 to 1.42 mm)

Alternator - late models only Type. Voltage. Output. Field resistance (± 5%). Brushes - minimum length. Brush spring pressure... Regulator (incorporated). Drivebelt tension.

Lucas 1 5ACR or AC-Delco

12 28 amps 4.3 ohms 0.20 in (5.0 mm) 7 - 10 oz 8TRD 0.24 in (6.0 mm) midway between the water pump and alternator pulleys

Starter motor - early models Make and model... Minimum permissible brush length.

Lucas M.35/G1 0.30 in (7.62 mm)

Brush spring tension New brush. Old brush. Minimum diameter of commutator after refacing Free running. Lock torque.

34 to 46 oz 1.281 in (32.5 mm) 1.281 in (32.5 mm) 45 amps 9500 to 11 000 rpm 10 Ibf ft at 420 to 440 amps, 7.8 to 7.4 volts

Starter motor - later models Type. Brush length. Spring pressure on brushes. Minimum commutator thickness. Armature shaft end float. Free running current. Lock torque ..

Lucas M35J/1 0.38 in (9.5 mm) minimum At 0.06 in (1.5 mm) protrusion - 28 oz (760 gms) 0.080 in (2 mm) 0.010 in (0.25 mm) maximum 65 amps at 8000 - 10 000 rpm 7 Ibf ft at 350 - 375 amps

Windscreen wiper Make and type... Normal running current consumption. Drive to wheel boxes. Armature end float. Maximum armature shaft bush clearance Stall torque at crank.

Delco 258, 12 volt 2.2 amps, warm Crank and cross-shaft 0.002 in (0.05 mm) 0.002 in (0.05 mm) 4f to 5| Ibf ft - 12 volt supply

126

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Fuses Fuse specifications. Fuse No 1 protects. Fuse No 2 protects. Fuse No 3 protects. Fuse No 4 protects. Line fuses - later models only Indicator circuit. Hazard warning circuit.

35 amp Radio and cigarette lighter Heater, stop lamps, direction indicators, warning lamps, fuel gauge, windscreen wiper motor and reverse lamps Dome lamp, headlamp, flasher and horn Tail lamps, rear number plate lamp, instrument lamps, and the cigarette lighter lamp 1 5 amp 35 amp

Bulbs Headlamps Early models. Later models. Sidelamps/front flasher. Sidelamps - later models. Pilot. Tail/stop. Rear flasher. Rear number plate. Flasher indicator. Dome. Headlamp main beam indicator Ignition warning indicator. Instrument.:. Oil warning indicator.

Volts 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12

Watts 60/45 50/40 6/21 6 6 6/21 21 6 2.2 10 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2

sealed beam, LH bias dip pre-focus V.'small bayonet cap small bayonet cap Miniature centre contact Small bayonet cap Single centre contact Miniature centre contact Miniature centre contact Festoon Miniature centre contact Miniature centre contact Miniature centre contact Miniature centre contact

Flasher unit Frequency.

1 General description 1 The electrical system is of the 12-volt type and the major components comprise: a 12-volt battery with the positive terminal earthed (later models had a negative earth - this is clearly indicated on the models concerned by means of a large warning label, as damage may result if a component or instrument designed for positive earth is used or installed on a car with negative earth) a voltage regulator and cut-out. 2 Early models were fitted with a dynamo whilst later models have an alternator. Mounted at the front right-hand side of the engine, the generator (whichever type) is driven by the fan belt from the crankshaft pulley wheel. 3 The 12-volt battery supplies a steady amount of current for the ignition, lighting, and other electrical circuits, and provides a reserve of electricity when the current consumed by the electrical equipment exceeds that being produced by the dynamo or alternator. 4 The dynamo is of the two brush type and works in conjunction with the voltage regulator and cut-out. The dynamo is cooled by a multi-bladed fan mounted behind the dynamo pulley, and blows air through cooling holes in the dynamo end brackets. The output from the dynamo is controlled by the voltage regulator which ensures a high output if the battery is in a low state of charge or the demands from the electrical equipment high, and a low output if the battery is fully charged and there is little demand from the electrical equipment. 5 The C40/L dynamo fitted to certain models differs little from the C40 type but has a higher output. The physical differences between the two dynamos are that the C40/L unit has a smaller fan pulley wheel; an improved output fan; no oil retainer ring on the front bracket; differently rated springs and brushes; and some C40 commutators are of the moulded type. Later models are fitted with an alternator in place on the dynamo. A description of the alternator is given in Section 1 6. An inertia starter motor is fitted and is located through an aperture in the clutch bellhousing on the right-hand side of the engine.

75 to 100 flashes per minute

distilled water only. Do not overfill. If a battery is overfilled or any electrolyte spilled, immediately wipe away the excess as electrolyte attacks and corrodes any metal it comes into contact with very rapidly (photo). 2 As well as keeping the terminals clean and covered with pet¬ roleum jelly, the top of the battery, and especially the top of the cells, should be kept clean and dry. This helps prevent corrosion and ensures that the battery does not become partially discharged by leakage through dampness and dirt. 3 Once every three months, remove the battery and inspect the battery securing bolts, the battery clamp plate, tray and battery leads for corrosion (white fluffy deposits on the metal which are brittle to touch). If any corrosion is found, clean off the deposits with ammonia and paint over the clean metal with an anti-rust/anti-acid paint (photo). 4 At the same time inspect the battery case for cracks. If a crack is found, clean and plug it with one of the proprietary compounds

2 Battery - maintenance and inspection 1 Normal weekly battery maintenance consists of checking the electrolyte level of each cell to ensure that the separators are covered by -g in of electrolyte. If the level has fallen, top-up the battery using

2.1 Topping-up the battery electrolyte level

'

Chapter 10 Electrical system

3

127

Battery electrolyte replenishment

1 If the battery is in a fully charged state and one of the cells maintains a specific gravity reading which is 0.025 or more lower than the others, and a check of each cell has been made with a voltage meter to check for short circuits (a four to seven second test should give a steady reading of between 1.2 to 1.8 bolts), then it is likely that electrolyte has been lost from the cell with the low reading at some time. 2 Top-up the cell with a solution of 1 part sulphuric acid to 2.5 parts of water. If the cell is already fully topped-up draw some electrolyte out of it with a pipette. The total capacity of each cell is f pint. 3 When mixing the sulphuric acid and water, never add water to sulphuric acid - always pour the acid slowly onto the water in a glass container. If water is added to sulphuric acid it will explode. 4 Continue to top-up the cell with the freshly made electrolyte and the recharge the battery and check the hydrometer readings.

4 2.3 Check battery terminals for signs of corrosion

marketed for this purpose. If leakage through the crack has been excessive then it will be necessary to refill the appropriate cell with fresh electrolyte as detailed later. Cracks are frequently caused to the top of the battery cases by pouring in distilled water in the middle of winter after instead of before a run. This gives the water no chance to mix with the electrolyte and so the former freezes and splits the battery case. 5 If topping-up the battery becomes excessive and the case has been inspected for cracks that could cause leakage, but none are found, the battery is being overcharged and the voltage regulator will have to be checked and rest. 6 With the battery on the bench at the three monthly interval check, measure its specific gravity with a hydrometer to determine the state of charge and condition of the electrolyte. There should be very little variation between the different cells and if a variation in excess of 0.025 is present it will be due to either: a)

b)

Loss of electrolyte from the battery at some time caused by spillage or a leak, resulting in a drop in the specific gravity of the electrolyte when the deficiency was replaced with dis¬ tilled water instead of fresh electrolyte An internal short circuit caused by buckling of the plates or a similar malady pointing to the likelihood of total battery failure in the near future

7 The specific gravity of the electrolyte for fully charged conditions at the electrolyte temperature indicated, is listed in Table A. The specific gravity of a fully discharged battery at different temperatures of the electrolyte is given in Table B. Table A Specific gravity - battery fully charged 1.268 at 100°F or 38°C electrolyte temperature 1.272 at 90°F or 32°C electrolyte temperature 1.276 at 80°F or 27°C electrolyte temperature 1.280 at 70°F or 21 °C electrolyte temperature 1.284 at 60°F or 16°C electrolyte temperature 1.288 at 50°F or 10°C electrolyte temperature 1.292 at 40°F or 4°C electrolyte temperature 1.296 at 30°F or -1.5°C electrolyte temperature Table B Specific gravity — battery fully discharged 1.098 at 100°F or 38°C electrolyte temperature 1.102 at 90°F or 32°C electrolyte temperature 1.106 at 80°F or 27°C electrolyte temperature 1.110 at 70°F or21°C electrolyte temperature 1.114 at 60°F or 16°C electrolyte temperature 1.118 at 50°F or 10°C electrolyte temperature 1.122 at 40°F or 4°C electrolyte temperature 1.126 at 30°F or -1.5°C electrolyte temperature

Battery charging

1 In winter time when heavy demand is placed upon the battery, such as when starting from cold, and much electrical equipment is continually in use, it is a good idea occasionally to have the battery fully charged from an external source at the rate of 3.5 to 4 amps. 2 Continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise in specific gravity is noted over a four hour period. 3 Alternatively, a trickle charger, charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can be safely used overnight. 4 Specially rapid 'boost' charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are most dangerous as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through over-heating. 5 While charging the battery note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 100°F. 6 On models equipped with an alternator, disconnect the battery earth and positive leads before connecting the corresponding charger leads.

5 Battery - removal and refitting 1 On positive earth batteries disconnect the positive and then the negative leads from the battery terminals by slackening the retaining nuts and bolts, or by unscrewing the retaining screws if these are fitted. Reverse this order on negative earth systems. 2 Remove the battery clamp and carefully lift the battery out of its compartment. Hold the battery vertical to ensure that none of the electrolyte is spilled. 3 Refitting is a direct reversal of this procedure. Note: Reconnect the negative lead before the earth (positive) lead and smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion. Never use an ordinary grease as applied to other parts of the car.

6 Dynamo - routine maintenance 1 Routine maintenance consists of checking the tension of the fan belt, and lubricating the dynamo rear bearing once every 6000 miles. 2 The fan belt should be tight enough to ensure no clip between the belt and the dynamo pulley. If a shrieking noise comes from the engine when the unit is accelerated rapidly, it is likely that it is the fan belt slipping. On the other hand, the belt must not be too taut or the bearings will wear rapidly and cause dynamo failure or bearing seizure. Ideally ^ in of total free movement should be available at the fan belt, midway between the fan and the dynamo pulley. 3 To adjust the fan belt tension, slightly slacken the three dynamo retaining bolts, and swing the dynamo on the upper two bolts outwards to increase the tension, and inwards to reduce it. 4 It is best to leave the bolts fairly tight so that considerable effort has to be used to move the dynamo, otherwise it is difficult to get the correct setting. If the dynamo is being moved outwards to increase the tension and the bolts have only been slackened a little, a long spanner acting as a lever placed behind the dynamo with the lower end resting against the block, works very well in moving the dynamo outwards.

Chapter 10 Electrical system

128

Fig. 10.2 Oil hole location to lubricate rear end bush in dynamo (Sec 6)

Fig. 10.1 Pynamo mountings (Sec 6) $

Retighten the dynamo bolts and check that the dynamo pulley is correctly aligned with the fan belt. 5 Lubrication on the dynamo consists of inserting three drops of SAE30 engine oil in the small oil hole in the centre of the commutator end bracket. This lubricates the rear bearing. The front bearing is pre¬ packed with grease and requires no attention.

7

Dynamo - testing in position

1 If, with the engine running, no charge comes from the dynamo, or the charge is very low, first check that the fan belt is in place and is not slipping. Then check that the leads from the control box to the dynamo are firmly attached and that one has not come loose from its terminal.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR GENERATOR

FIELD RESISTOR

2 The lead from the D terminal on the dynamo should be connected to the D terminal on the control box, and similarly the F terminals on the dynamo and control box should also be connected together. Check that this is so and that the leads have not been incorrectly fitted. 3 Make sure none of the electrical equipment (such as the lights or radio) is on, and then pull the leads off the dynamo terminals marked D and F. Join the terminals together with a short length of wire. 4 Attach to the centre of this length of wire the negative clip of a 0-20 volts voltmeter and run the other clip to earth on the dynamo yoke. Start the engine and allow it to idle at approximately 750 rpm. At this speed the dynamo should give a reading of about 15 volts on the voltmeter. There is no point in raising the engine speed above a fast idle as the reading will then be inaccurate. 5 If no reading is recorded, then check the brushes and brush connections. If a very low reading of approximately 1 volt is observed, then the field winding may be suspect. 6 If a reading of between 4 to 6 amps is recorded, it is likely that the armature winding is at fault. 7 On early dynamos it was possible to remove the dynamo cover band and check the dynamo and brushes in position. With the Lucas

CURRENT REGULATOR

CUT-OUT RELAY

Fig. 10.3 Charging circuit diagram - dynamo equipped models. Warning light circuit for LHD vehicles showmwith dotted line (Sec 7)

V*

129

Chapter 10 Electrical system C40-1 windowless yoke dynamo it must be removed and dismantled before the brushes and commutator can be attended to. 8 If the voltmeter shows a good reading, then with the temporary link still in position, connect both leads from the control box to D and F on the dynamo (D to D and F to F). Release the lead from the D terminal at the control box end and clip one lead from the voltmeter to the end of the cable, and the other lead to a good earth. With the engine running at the same speed as previously, an identical voltage to that recorded at the dynamo should be noted on the voltmeter. If no voltage is recorded, then there is a break in the wire. If the voltage is the same as recorded at the dynamo, then check the F lead in similar fashion. If both readings are the same as at the dynamo, then it will be necessary to test the control box.

8

Dynamo - removal and refitting

1 Slacken the two dynamo retaining bolts, and the nut oh the sliding link, and move the dynamo in towards the engine so that the fan belt can be removed. 2 Disconnect the two leads from the dynamo terminals. 3 Remove the nut from the sliding link bolt, and remove the two upper bolts. The dynamo is then free to be lifted away from the engine. 4 Refitting is a reversal of the above procedure. Do not finally tighten the retaining bolts and the nut on the sliding link until the fan belt has been tensioned correctly (See Chapter 2.10 for details).

9.3 Lift out the brushes (arrowed)

3 9

Dynamo — dismantling and inspection

1 Mount the dynamo in a vice and unscrew and remove the two through bolts from the commutator end bracket. 2 Mark tfje commutator end bracket and the dynamo casing so that the end bracket can be replaced in its original position. Puli the end bracket off the armature shaft. Note: Some versions of the dynamo may have a raised pip on the end bracket which locates in a recess on the edge of the casing, if so, marking the end bracket and casing is not necessary. A pipe may also be found on the drive end bracket at the opposite end of the casing.

16

17

18

Lift the two brush springs and draw the brushes out of the brush

holders (arrowed). 4 Measure the brushes and, if worn down to J in or less, unscrew the screws holding the brush leads to the end bracket. Take off the brushes complete with leads. Old and new brushes are compared in the photograph. 5 If no locating pip can be found, mark the drive end bracket and the dynamo casing so that the drive end bracket can be refitted in its original position. Then pull the drive end bracket complete with armature out of the casing. 6 Check the condition of the ball bearing in the drive end plate by firmly holding the plate and noting if there is visible side movement of

19

20

21

22

Fig. 10.5 Exploded view of dynamo components (Sec 9) 7 Commutator end bracket 2 Felt ring 3 Felt ring retainer 4 Bronze bush 5 Thrust washer 6 Field coils 7 Yoke

8 9

Shaft collar Shaft collar retaining cup 10 Felt ring 17 Shaft key 12 Shaft nut

73 14 15 16 17 18

Output terminal D Brushes Field terminal F Commutator Through bolts Pole-shoe securing screws

19 20 21 22 23 24

Armature Bearing retaining plate Ball bearing Corrugated washer Driving end bracket Pulley spacer

130

Chapter 10 Electrical system

the armature shaft in relation to the end plate. If play is present, the armature assembly must be separated from the end plate. If the bearing is sound there is no need to carry out the work described in the following two paragraphs. 7 Hold the armature in one hand (mount it carefully in a vice if preferred) and undo the nut holding the pulley wheel and fan in place. Pull off the pulley wheel and fan. 8 Next remove the Woodruff key (arrowed) from its slot in the armature shaft and also the bearing locating ring. 9 Place the drive end bracket across the open jaws of a vice with the armature downwards and gently tap the armature shaft from the bearing in the end plate with the aid of a suitable drift. Support the armature so that it does not fall to the ground. 10 Carefully inspect the armature and check it for open or short circuited windings. It is a good indication of an open circuited armature when the commutator segments are burnt. If the armature has short circuited the commutator segments will be very badly burnt, and the overheated armature windings badly discoloured. If open or short circuits are suspected substitute the suspect armature with a new one. 11 Check the resistance of the field coils. To do this, connect an ohmmeter between the field terminal and the yoke and note the reading on the ohmmeter which should be about 6 ohms. If the ohmmeter reading is infinity this indicates an open circuit in the field winding. If the ohmmeter reading is below 5 ohms this indicates that one of the field coils is faulty and must be replaced. 12 Field coil replacement, involves the use of a wheel operated screwdriver, a soldering iron, caulking and riveting and this operation is considered to be beyond the scope of most owners. Therefore, if the field coils are at fault either purchase a rebuilt dynamo, or take the casing to a Bedford dealer or electrical engineering works for new field coils to be fitted. 13 Next check the condition of the commutator (arrowed). If it is dirty and blackened, as shown, clean it with a petrol dampened rag. If the commutator is in good condition the surface will be smooth and quite free from pits or burnt areas, and the insulated segments clearly defined. 14 If, after the commutator has been cleaned, pits and burnt spots are still present, wrap a strip of glass paper round the commutator taking great care to move the commutator | of a turn every ten rubs till it is thoroughly clean. 15 In extreme cases of wear the commutator can be mounted in a lathe and with the lathe turning at high speed, a very fine cut may be taken off the commutator. Then polish the commutator with glass paper. If the commutator has worn so that the insulators between the segments are level with the top of the segments, then undercut the insulators to a depth of 35 in (0.8 mm). The best tool to use for this purpose is half a hacksaw blade ground to a thickness of the insulator, and with the handle end of the blade covered in insulating tape to make it comfortable to hold. 16 Check the bush bearing (arrowed) in the commutator end bracket

9.14 Cleaning the commutator surface using glasspaper

for wear, by noting if the armature spindle rocks when placed in it. If worn, it must be renewed. 1 7 The bush bearing can be removed by a suitable extractor or by screwing a f in tap four or five times into the bush. The tap complete with bush is then pulled out of the end bracket. 18 Note: The bush bearing is of the porous bronze type and, before fitting a new one it is essential that it is allowed to stand in SAE30 engine oil for at least 24 hours before fitment. In an emergency the bush can be immersed in hot oil (100°C) for 2 hours. 19 Carefully fit the new bush into the end plate, pressing it in until the end of the bearing is flush with the inner side of the end plate. If available, press the bush in with a smooth shouldered mandrel the same diameter as the armature shaft.

10 Dynamo - repair and reassembly 1 To renew the ball bearing fitted to the drive end bracket, drill out the rivets which hold the bearing retainer plate to the end bracket and lift off the plate. 2 Press out the bearing from the end bracket and remove the corrugated and felt washers from the bearing housing. 3 Thoroughly clean the bearing housing and the new bearing, and pack with high melting point grease.

9.13 Check condition of commutator (arrowed)

.16 Check bearing (arrowed) for wear

131

Chapter 10 Electrical system 4 Place the felt washer and corrugated washer, in that order, in the end bracket bearing housing. 5 Then fit the new bearing. 6 Gently tap the bearing into place with the aid of a suitable drift. 7 Refit the bearing plate and fit three new rivets. 8 Open up the rivets with the aid of a suitable cold chisel. 9 Finally peen over the open end of the rivets with the aid of a ball hammer. 10 Refit the drive end bracket to the armature shaft. Do not try and force the bracket on but, with the aid of a suitable socket abutting the bearing, tap the bearing on gently, so pulling the end bracket down with it. 11 Slide the spacer up the shaft and refit the Woodruff key. 12 Refit the fan and pulley wheel and then fit the spring washer and nut and tighten the latter. The drive bracket end of the dynamo is now fully assembled. 13 If the brushes are little worn and are to be used again then ensure that they are placed in the same holders from which they were removed. When refitting brushes, either new or old, check that they move freely in their holders. If either brush sticks, clean with a petrol moistened rag and if still stiff, lightly polish the sides of the brush with a very fine file until the brush moves quite freely in its holder. 14 Tighten the two retaining screws and washers which hold the wire leads to the brushes in place.

15 It is far easier to slip the end piece with brushes over the commutator if the brushes are raised in their holders, as shown, and held in this position by the pressure of the springs resting against their flanks (arrowed). 16 Refit the armature to the casing and then the commutator end plate, and screw up the two through-bolts. 1 7 Finally, hook the ends of the two springs off the flanks of the brushes and onto their heads so that the brushes are forced down into contact with the armature.

11

Cut out and regulator contacts - maintenance

1 Every 12 000 miles check the cut-out and regulator contacts. If they are dirty or rough or burnt, place a piece of fine glass paper (do not use emery paper or carborundum paper) between the cut-out contacts, close them manually and draw the glass paper through several times. 2 Clean the regulator contacts in exactly the same way, but use emery or carborundum paper and not glass paper. Carefully clean both sets of contacts from all traces of dust with a rag moistened in methylated spirits. 3 To check/adjust the armature/core gap and cut-out contact gap settings refer to Section 1 5. 2

3

Fig. 10.5 Control box (dynamo models) - contact points and cleaning (Sec 11) 1 2

Voltage regulator contacts Current regulator contacts. Remove and dean with fine carborundum and meths

3

Cut-out relay contacts Clean in position with glass paper

10.14 Secure the brush lead terminals 12 Voltage regulator (dynamo) - checks and adjustments 1 To check the voltage rgulator, first disconnect the wire(s) from the B terminal on the control box and make sure it is not allowed to touch anything. 2 Then connect a voltmeter to the WL terminal and earth as shown in Fig. 10.6. 3 Start the engine and slowly increase revolutions to 2000 rpm. The voltage should reach between 14.3 to 15.5 volts according to air

10.1 5 Brushes in raised position for fitting

Fig. 10.6 Connection of voltmeter to control box to check voltage regulator. Adjuster cam is arrowed (Sec 12)

132

Chapter 10 Electrical system

temperature as shown in the table in the specifications at the beginning of this chapter. Unsteady fluctuations (more than 0.3 volts) may be due to dirty contacts. A steady reading outside the range can be adjusted by turning the cam arrowed in Fig. 10.6. Obtain the special toothed tool for this purpose. When the adjustment is completed, lower and raise the engine speed again to check the reading.

2

13 Cut-out (dynamo) - checks and adjustments 1 Connect the voltmeter as for the voltage regulator check but with all connections to the cut-out box left as they are. 2 Start the engine, and increase speed slowly. Check that the relay cuts in at between 12.6 and 13.4 volts. The cut-in is indicated by a flicker back of the voltmeter needle. If adjustment is required adjust the cam (arrowed) only when the engine is at idling speed. Then check by speeding up the engine. 3 Next disconnect the lead from terminal B once more and connect an ammeter as shown in Fig. 10.8, making sure that the loose tag does not touch anything. 4 Then switch on the headlamps, start the engine and increase the engine speed until a charge is indicated. Then gradually decrease engine speed and check that the discharge does not exceed 8 amps. If it does, bend the fixed contact (arrowed) back a little uhtil it is correct. 5 If the cut-out fails to work, clean the contacts, and, if there is still no response, renew the cut-out and regulator unit.

Fig. 10.9 Ammeter to control box connections for current regulator check (Sec 14) ' /

Regulator contacts held dosed with dip

2

Adjuster cam

15 Control box armature/core gaps and cut-out contact gap setting (dynamo) 1 First check the gaps on the current and voltage regulators according to specifications. If adjustment is necessary, first turn the adjuster cams clockwise so that the locknut on the adjustable contact can be reached with a tubular spanner in order to slacken it. Then place the feeler blade under the armature as far as the rivet heads allow, press the armature down and adjust the contact until they just touch. Re-check the armature core gap on release, and then tighten the locknut. The voltage and current regulator will need re-setting afterwards as described in Sections 12 and 14. 2 The cut-out relay contacts should just touch with a 0.10 to 0.35 in feeler blade between the armature and core and the armature pressed down. The contacts are adjusted by bending the fixed contact. The armature to core gap should be between 0.035 inch and 0.045 inch and this is adjusted by bending the armature back stop. After adjustments are completed the settings should be re-checked as described in Section 13. 3 If the control box has been removed from the car it should be refitted before securing the cover with new rivets or nuts as conve¬ nient. Make sure that the wire connections are all re-made correctly.

Fig. 10.7 Voltmeter connection to control box for cut-out check. Adjuster arm is arrowed (Sec 13)

Fig. 10.8 Ammeter connections to control box for 2nd stage of cut-out-check (fixed contact is arrowed) (Sec 13)

14 Current regulator (dynamo) - checks and adjustments 1 Having completed the checks in Sections 12 and 13, leave the ammeter connected as in check 13, and hold the voltage regulator contacts together with a clip. 2 Start the engine and increase speed to 2750 rpm when the ammeter should give a steady reading of 22 amps. Adjust by turning the cam if necessary.

Fig. 10.10 Adjusting the current regulator armature (Sec 15)

16 Alternator - description and safety precautions Basically the alternator, as its name implies, generates alternating current rather than direct current. This current is rectified (by diodes) into direct current so that it can be stored by the battery. The

133

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Fig. 10.11 Lucas 15 ACR alternator - exploded drawing (Sec 16) 7 2 3

Regulator Slip ring end cover Stator

4 5

Rotor Brush housing

transistorised regulators are self-limiting in correct output so they control only the voltage. Apart from the renewal of the rotor slip ring brushes and rotor shaft bearings, there are no other parts which need periodic inspection. All other [terns are sealed assemblies and must be renewed if indications are that they are faulty. If there are indications that the charging system is malfunctioning in any way, care must be taken to diagnose faults properly, otherwise damage of a serious and expensive nature may occur to parts which are in fact quite serviceable. The following basic requirements must be observed at all times, therefore, if damage is to be prevented. 1 All alternator systems use a negative earth. Even the simple mistake of connecting a battery the wrong way round could burn out the alternator diodes in a few seconds. 2 Before disconnecting any wires in the system the engine and ignition circuits should be switched off. This will minimise accidental short circuits. 3 The alternator must never be run with the output wire disconnec¬ ted. 4 Always disconnect the battery from the car's electrical system if an outside charging source is being used. 5 Do not use test wire connections that could move accidentally and short circuit against nearby terminals. Short circuits will not blow fuses - they will blow diodes or transistors. 6 Always disconnect the battery cables and alternator output wires before any electric welding work is done on the bodywork of the vehicle.

17 Alternator - fault diagnosis 1 It is essential that when a fault occurs the correct procedure is followed to diagnose it. If it is not, the likelihood of damage is high. The safety precautions as described in Section 7 should always be observed. 2 No proper diagnosis is possible without an ammeter (0 — 100 amps range) a voltmeter (0 — 50 volts range) and a test lamp (12v 6 watt) being available. If you are unable to acquire these then leave the circuit checking to a competent electrician. 3 Check the obvious first, ie battery, battery terminals, fan belt tension and disconnected wires. 4 Follow the line of diagnosis as shown in the accompanying tables for the Lucas 1 5 ACR alternator. 5 The AC-Delco alternator is very similar to that of the Lucas model with the exception that the field link wire is redundant. Fault diagnosis procedures in the manufacturer's service schedule are not readily

6

Rectifier (diodes and heat sink)

7 8 9

Slip rings Bearings Drive end cover

interpreted into 'Do-it-yourself terms. If a fault develops it is rec¬ ommended that the more detailed checks are made by a service station which you know is equipped to deal with this make of alternator.

18 Alternator - removal, refitting and belt adjustment 1 The alternator is removed and refitted in a similar manner to that given for the dynamo in Section 8. Additional care must be taken however as the alternator is a more delicate instrument. 2 Installation is a reversal of removal but make sure that the drive end bracket bolt is tightened before the slip ring end bracket bolt which incorporates a split sliding bush. 3 Adjust the belt tension, as described in Chapter 2, Section 10. 4 Ensure that the wiring multi-connections are secure when fitted.

19 Alternator - dismantling and inspection 1 If tests indicate that the alternator is faulty, it is possible that the slip ring brushes and slip rings may be the cause. 2 After removing the fan and pulley nut, the through bolts may be removed. Mark the position of the end covers relative to the stator and withdraw the drive end cover and rotor together. The brushes may be checked for length and the slip rings cleaned up with fine glass paper. 3 The 15ACR alternator requires the unsoldering of the stator connections to get at the brushes and slip ring, and this is not recommended. If the diodes to which they are attached are overheated they could be damaged. 4 With AC Delco models the brushes are not soldered. 5 Although, therefore, there is the possibility of an owner success¬ fully rectifying a fault, we do not recommend dismantling as a general principle, as more damage could be caused to the system, not just the alternator, if a mistake is made. 6 When an alternator is diagnosed as unerviceable, it should only be as a result of a thorough check of the complete system. If this is not done, a new unit could be completely ruined immediately following installation if something is also at fault elsewhere.

20 Starter motor M35 G/1 - general description The starter motor is mounted on the right-hand lower side of the engine end plate, and is held in position by two bolts. The motor is of

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Fig. 10.32 Speedometer and combined instrument gauge components (Sec 41) 11 12 13 14 15 16

Fuel gauge - tank unit Terminal nut Mask Glass Retaining rinq Bezel

17 Rubber ring 18 Light tube 19 Rubber cap s 20 ignition warning light disc 21 OH warning light disc 22 Speedometer dial

24 25 26 27 28 29

Odometer fixing screw Pointer Main beam disc Light tube Rubber retaining ring Speedometer glass

30 31 32 33 34 35

Glass retaining ring Gasket Bezel Rubber ring Bulb 12v 2.2w Mounting screw

Chapter 10 Electrical system

FUEL GAUGE.

147

NUT LOCKWASHER BRASS WASHER CONNECTING STRIP TERMINAL

J

NUT LOCKW ASHER TERMINAL

NUT LOCKWASHER BRASS WASHER CONNECTING STRIP BRASS WASHER

■ WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE

i

Fig. 10.33 Combined instrument gauge - rear view showing order of terminal attachments (Sec 42)

suction and delivery pipes, unions or nozzles all of which must be carefully examined for splits, kinks, blockages or leaking connections.

44 Windscreen wiper motor - self parking adjustment 1 If the windscreen wipers fail to park or park badly then alter the position of the switch contact on the wheelbox attached to the end of the wiper motor. First remove the scuttle cover on the right-hand side of the car (see photo) and slide the cover down the speedometer cable. 2 The switch contact is moved by means of a hexagon headed pin held by a spring fixing plate (see Fig. 10.34). 3 Turn the wipers on and then off, noting where they come to rest. With a small ^ in AF spanner turn the pin clockwise to make the blades park higher on the screen, and anti-clockwise to make the blades park lower.

45 Windscreen wiper motor - removal

Standard mounting 1 The windscreen wiper motor has to be removed complete with the wiper operating links and arms, which are held in a rigid frame and

44.1 Removing scuttle cover for access to wiper motor assembly

Fig. 10.34 Adjusting the windscreen wiper motor self-parking switch pin (Sec 44)

comprise the complete windscreen wiper assembly, from under the bonnet on the driver's side by the scuttle. 2 Disconnect the battery and take off the windscreen wiper arms. 3 The frame is held at three points. At the top two points it is held by slotted rings (which in effect are nuts) positioned on the outside of the vehicle just in front of the windscreen on the base of the splined pivots to which the wiper arms are attached. 4 Undo these nuts if possible using the special spanner to prevent damage to the rings. Alternatively use a screwdriver. Take off the outer sealing rings. 5 Undo the scuttle ventilator cover plates, sliding the cover on the driver's side down the speedometer cable (see photo 44.1). 6 Remove the carburettor air cleaner. 7 Disconnect the control wire to the heater water valve (if fitted). 8 Remove the ventilator air duct assembly and the upper water deflector, held by two screws. (If a heater is fitted it will need to be slightly withdrawn so that the deflector may be removed). 9 Remove the wiper arms and blades, and then the nuts from the pivot housings followed by the washers and sealing rings. 10 Take out the lower rubber mounting from the motor mounting bracket. 11 The pivots can now be eased through the scuttle and the whole assembly moved towards the centre of the scuttle. Pull the motor leads through the dash panel until the connectors can be detached and then remove the assembly from the vehicle.

Fig. 10.35 Windscreen wiper arm pivot pin assembly - cross section view (Sec 45)

148

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Alternative mounting 12 Some types are mounted differently and it is possible to remove the motor without the trouble involved in dismantling all the wiper gear as well. 13 Remove the scuttle cover plate as described in the previous section and ensure the motor is in the parked position. 14 Undo the circlip holding the motor crank arm to the main wiper mechanism (see photo - arrow 'a') and lift off the link arm. 1 Remove the three mounting bolts holding the motor to the bracket (see photo - arrow 'b'). 16 Unhook the bracket from the mounting rubber (see photo - arrow ’c).

17 The crank arm can now be manoeuvred through the hole in the bracket and the motor moved clear. Detach the electrical leads from through the dashboard and remove the motor. 18 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. If the wiper mechanism is also removed because of suspected wear in the swivel pins and bushes, examine all the nylon bushes and crank pins, and the blade arm pivot housings. 19 Pivot housings can be replaced by driving out the mounting rivets and replacing the units. 20 If crank pins are also badly worn, consideration should be given to replacing the whole assembly, which is a little more expensive but far quicker.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Through bolt nuts Lockwashers Commutator end frame and spherical bearing End frame insulator Through bolt inner nuts Lockwashers Brush springs Brushes Brush plate Armature shim washer Insulating washer Oil slinger Through bolt spacers Armature Field coil assembly Thrust ball Armature shaft bush

45.14 Alternative wiper mounting

18 Housing 19 Through bolts 20 Earth strip 21 Crank 22 Water shield 23 Cross-shaft bushes 24 Locknut 25 Thrust screw 26 Cross-shaft spring washer 2 7 Cross-shaft thrust washer 28 Cross-shaft and gear 29 Adjustment pin retainer 30 Parking contact 31 Switch plate 32 -Switch plate screw 33 Switch wire connector 34 Parking contact adjustment pin

-29 30

34

Chapter 10 Electrical system

149

armature end float clearance to 0.002 in (0.05 mm) and tighten the 46 Windscreen wiper motor - dismantling inspection and reassembly Other than for normal wear, the bearings and gears in the motor should not deteriorate and if for any reason the motor should cease to function altogether, it is probably due to the wiper mechanism jamming or seizing which has overloaded the motor and burnt it out. In such instances the purchasing of either armature or field coils, and probably brushes as well, is hardly comparable to buying an exchange unit. If the motor ceases to function for no immediately obvious reason proceed as follows: 1 Remove the motor from the mechanism as previously described and reconnect it to a 12-volt source to make sure that it is the motor at fault and not a jammed mechanism. 2 Thoroughly clean the motor exterior, (use fluids very sparingly to prevent contamination of the interior). 3 Remove the switch plate screw and lift off the switch plate and assembly. Examine the parking contact for condition. Replace if badly burnt or pitted. 4 Remove the nuts and washers from the through bolts and take off the end frame which also contains the spherical bearing for the commutator end of the armature. 5 Remove the end frame insulator and examine the brushes for condition and the commutator segments for burning or pitting. Clean the commutator with glass paper only. If the brushes need replacing remove the through bolt inner nuts and washers and withdraw the brush plate to reveal the soldered brush connections. Unsolder these and resolder new ones with new springs. 6 If the commutator should be very badly burnt or pitted on any of the segments, it will almost certainly have broken down insulation on the windings and the best remedy is a new one. 7 To check the field coil disconnect the leads from the switch plate and check for continuity and then ensure there is no short to earth. Field coils should not be loose around the pole pieces and the insulation should be visually examined for displacement or scorching. 8 Reassemble in the reverse order making sure that the end frame insulator is replaced with the cut-away as shown. 9 Ensure that the spherical bearing re-seats properly in the end of the armature shaft. 10 To replace the armature, dismantle the motor as described in paragraphs 1 to 7, draw out the armature by revolving it anti¬ clockwise to clear the cross-shaft gear. Do not lose the ball at the drive end. Slacken off the locknut and thrust screw two or three turns and insert a new armature. Reassemble the brush gear and end cover as in paragraphs 8 and 9. 11 With a feeler gauge between the ball and the screw set the

lock nut. 12 Reassemble the switch plate having packed the gear housing 1/3rd full with recommended grease. Re-test as before. 13 During examination of the bushes certain play may be apparent between the shafts and bushes. Theoretically the tolerances between them are 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.05 to 0.07 mm). However, provided the play is not so great as to cause a possibility of jamming, or such as causes too great a variation in the wiper sweep and park position a certain discretion can be exercised regarding the necessity to replace them. 14 As mentioned earlier the motor will have been dismantled for some specific reason and if this was something other than the bushes, and the bushes are then found to be in need of renewal, it will probably be sensible economics to obtain a complete exchange motor. 1 5 Bushes can be replaced by drifting out and pressing in new ones. 16 When all repairs have been carried out and the unit reassembled, it is advisable to carry out some trial tests. Check the current consumption as an indication that there is no inherent overloading due to misalignment or tightness in bushes and thrust clearances. With an ammeter in circuit connect the BAT terminal to negative, the earth strip to positive (positive earth car - reverse for negative) and the SW connection to the motor body. On free running the current should be 2.2 amps. If more, check for free rotation of shafts in the bushes. If less, then the motor cannot be running at full speed and the brushes will not be making proper contact, or your battery has run down.

47 Windscreen wiper motor - refitting 1 Ensure that bushes and washers are lubricated with a rec¬ ommended grease. If the motor has been detached remount it on the frame. 2 Offer up the whole assembly to the scuttle, not forgetting to put the scuttle inner mounting rings on the pivots first and making sure that the mounting grommet for the bracket is in position as shown in photo (arrowed). 3 It is advisable to fit new outer rubber rings to the blade pivots. When everything is properly positioned and the motor connections made, the locking nuts can be tightened up, ensuring that the shaped outer rings follow the contours of the scuttle. 4 Before refitting the blades, switch on the motor and let the mechanism run for a short time and check for ease of running and any odd noises. Switch off and let it come to rest in the normal park position. 5 Then refit the blades in the parked position. Any further ad¬ justment to the park position should be carried out as described earlier.

48 Fault diagnosis - electrical system Symptom

Reason(s)

No electricity at starter motor

Battery discharged Battery defective internally Battery terminal leads loose or earth lead not securely attached to body Loose or broken connections in starter motor circuit Starter motor switch or solenoid faulty

Electricity at starter motor: faulty motor

Starter motor turns engine very slowly *

Starter motor operates without turning engine

Starter motor pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear ring Starter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wire loose Commutator dirty, worn or burnt Starter motor armature faulty Field coils earthed Battery in discharged condition Starter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wire loose Loose wires in starter motor circuit Starter motor pinion sticking on the screwed sleeve Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn Battery almost completely discharged

150

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Symptom

Reason(s)

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough engagement

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn Starter drive main spring broken Starter motor retaining bolts loose

Battery will not hold charge for more than a few days

Battery defective internally Electrolyte level too low or electrolyte too weak due to leakage Plate separators no longer fully effective Battery plates severely sulphated

Insufficient current flow to keep battery charge

Battery plates severely sulphated Fan belt slipping Battery terminal connections loose or corroded^ Dynamo/alternator not charging Short in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain Dynamo/alternator regulator unit not working correctly

Ignition lights fail to go out, battery runs flat in a few days

Fan belt loose and slipping or broken Brushes worn, sticking, broken or dirty Brush springs weak or broken Slip rings dirty, greasy, worn or burnt Alternator stator coils burnt, open, or shorted

Horn operates all the time

Horn push either earthed or stuck down Horn cable to horn push earthed

Horns fails to operate

Blown fuse Cable or cable connection loose, broken or disconnected Horn has an internal fault

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory noise

Cable connections loose

Lights do not come on

Lights come on but fade out

Lights give very poor illumination

Lights works erratically — flashing on and off, especially over bumps

Wiper motor fails to work

Wiper motor works very slowly and takes excessive current

Wiper motor works slowly and takes little current

Wiper motor works but wiper blades remain static

If engine not running, battery discharged Light bulb filament burnt out or bulbs broken Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Light switch shorting or otherwise faulty If engine not running battery discharged Light bulb filament burnt out or bulbs or sealed units broken Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Light switch shorting or otherwise faulty Lamp glasses dirty Lamps badly out of adjustment Battery terminal or earth connection loose Lights not earthing properly Contacts in light switch faulty Blown fuse Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Brushes badly worn Armature worn or faulty Field coils faulty Commutator dirty, greasy or burnt Armature bearings dirty or unaligned Armature badly worn or faulty Brushes badly worn Commutator dirty, greasy or burnt Armature badly worn or faulty Wiper motor gearbox parts badly worn

Fig. 10.37 Wiring diagram for early right-hand drive vehicles - (physical)

151

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Fig. 10.38 Wiring diagram for early left-hand drive vehicles - (physical)

152

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153

Fig. 10.40 Accessories wiring diagram - (early models)

156 R H

PARKING

LAMP SOLENOID

STARTER SWITCH

R M DOOR SWITCH MAV ONLY 39-

4 WAV FUSE BLOCK

L H PARKING LAMP

N*

COLOUR BROWN BROWN BROWN — BROWN BROWN RJRPLE PURPLE PURPLE PURPLE — PURPLE — WHITE WHITE — WHITE —

SIZE

GREEN YELLOW YELLOW

BLACK WHITE BLUE 3ROWN

44/ 012 28/012 9/ 012 44/01 2 9 / Ol 2 28/ Ol 2 14/ 012 9/ 012 14/ 012 9/012 • 4/012 28/ 012 9/012

No

COLOUR

WHITE GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN GREEN BLUE

SIZE

~ RED

— — — — — — —

PURPLE PURPLE WHITE WHITE BLACK RED RED

9/012 14/012 14/010 9/ Ol 2 14/ 010 9/ 01 2 • 4 / OlO 9/ 012 9/ 012 14/ OlO 9/ 012 28/ 012

COLOUR BLUE — WHITE BLUE — WHITE BLUE — WHITE BLUE — WHITE BLUE — RED BLUE — RED BLUE — RED LT GREEN - BROWN LT GREEN - BROWN LT GREEN - PURPLE RED RED RED — WHITE

SIZE 28/ 14/ 9/ 14/ 28/ 14/

Ol 2 012 012 OlO 012 012

COLOUR RED — GREEN RED — BROWN BLACK BLACK BLACK — RED

i-w oio

14/ OIO 9/012 9/ 012 14/ OlO 9/012

PURPLE — BLACK WHITE — BLACK WHITE — BLUE GREEN

SIZE 9/ 012 28/ Ol 2 9/01 2 14/ OIO 9/012 37/ 028 16/16/ Ol 2 14/010 7/16/ 004 14/ Ol 2

22/ 012

9/012

Fig. 10.42 Wiring diagram for later dynamo models - left-hand drive

V.

SYMBOL

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05

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