Eyewitness Travel Paris 9780241509685

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EYEWITNESS

PARIS

CONTENTS

DISCOVER 6 Welcome to Paris .......................................... 8

Paris Itineraries .............................................26

Reasons to Love Paris .............................. 10

Paris Your Way ..............................................32

Explore Paris ....................................................14

A Year in Paris ................................................58

Getting to Know Paris ...............................16

A Brief History ..............................................60

EXPERIENCE 64 Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis .................................... 66

Louvre and Les Halles ................... 180

The Marais............................................... 84

Eiffel Tower and Invalides ............196

Bastille and Oberkampf ................100

Champs-Élysées and Chaillot ........................................... 212

République and Canal St-Martin .................................... 114

St-Germain-des-Prés ....................234

Belleville and Ménilmontant .......................................126

Latin Quarter .......................................248

La Villette ...............................................138

Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie ............................... 262

Montmartre and Pigalle .................152

Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg.................... 278

Opéra and Grands Boulevards ...........................168

Beyond the Centre ......................... 290

NEED TO KNOW 306 Before You Go ...........................................308

Index ..................................................................316

Getting Around .......................................... 310

Phrase Book .................................................323

Practical Information ...............................314

Acknowledgments...................................325

Left: Classic Parisian rooftops Previous page: The city of Paris in springtime Front cover: Looking over the city skyline

A boat cruising along the Seine

DISCOVER

Welcome to Paris ............................................8 Reasons to Love Paris ................................10 Explore Paris ..................................................... 14 Getting to Know Paris ................................ 16 Paris Itineraries .............................................. 26 Paris Your Way ............................................... 32 A Year in Paris .................................................58 A Brief History ............................................... 60

WELCOME TO DISCOVER Welcome to Paris

PARIS

Sweeping, tree-lined boulevards and beautifully manicured parks. World-class museums and cutting-edge haute cuisine. The inspiration of countless artists, writers and philosophers, Paris is a city that speaks to the soul. Whatever your dream trip to Paris includes, this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is the perfect travel companion.

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3 1 Admiring art in the Musée du Louvre 2 Irresistible macarons, a patisserie favourite 3 The cobbled streets of Montmartre 4 Taking a break in the Jardin des Tuileries

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The birthplace of the French Revolution, Paris is steeped in history. From the Gothic magnificence of Notre-Dame, through the Second Empire opulence of the Opéra Garnier to the elegance of the Eiffel Tower, the city’s landmarks are a testament to its enduring status as a political and cultural powerhouse. Art is everywhere: lose yourself in the galleries of the Louvre and marvel at the Impressionist masterpieces in the Musée d’Orsay, or visit Belleville to view the ever-changing street art on Rue Dénoyez. Paris’s renowned food scene is equally rich, with an enticing array of boulangeries and bistros that reflect each neighbourhood’s local flavour. Stalls overflow with fresh produce at the Marché d’Aligre, while La Cuisine offers the opportunity to learn to cook your own French classics.

The city’s charms extend beyond its centre and it’s well worth heading to Versailles to experience the royal splendour of the palace and gardens. Alternatively, escape the crowds and play flâneur for the day at the Bois de Vincennes or Bois de Boulogne, exploring their winding trails, stately châteaus and serene boating ponds. Compact enough to travel around easily, Paris can still overwhelm with the volume of unmissable sites on offer. We’ve broken the city down into easily navigable chapters, with detailed itineraries, expert local knowledge and comprehensive maps. Add insider tips, and a need-to-know guide that lists the essentials to be aware of before and during your trip, and you’ve got an indispensable guidebook. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Paris.

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DISCOVER Reasons to Love Paris

REASONS TO LOVE

PARIS

It’s soaked in history. It’s steeped in culture. It’s a gourmet’s delight. Ask any Parisian and you’ll hear a different reason why they love their city. Here, we pick some of our favourites.

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EIFFEL TOWER The most iconic symbol of Paris. Some people scale its full height while others view it from a distance, but no one forgets the first time they see the Iron Lady (p200).

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COFFEE AND CAFÉS Centuries-old cafés are the place to sit and sip a dark espresso while watching the city saunter, sashay or scurry by – an endlessly fascinating spectacle.

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PLAYING FLÂNEUR Parisians invented the concept of the flâneur, an aimless wanderer. Whether it’s the Seine’s footpaths (p210) or the boutique-filled Marais (p84), there’s always a reason to put one foot in front of the other.

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MUSÉE DU LOUVRE Home to the Mona Lisa, the Louvre (p184) houses over 30,000 works from across the ages. It’s easy – and recommended – to get lost in its seemingly endless galleries.

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NOTRE-DAME The huge outpouring of grief that followed the 2019 fire at this massive cathedral (p70) is a testament to how dear it is to the city’s heart. Damaged, but defiantly still standing, this national treasure is an enduring icon.

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CLASSIC FRENCH CUISINE French food is unrivalled, and eating at a restaurant is a total experience, where service is an art and every server can recommend a stellar wine.

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DISCOVER Reasons to Love Paris

VERSAILLES Built to wow the world, Louis XIV's epic château and gardens are true marvels. Find yourself awed at every turn by the opulent display of wealth and grandeur (p296).

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RIVER SEINE Paris’s identity flows from its beloved river. Car-free paths on both banks offer romantic strolls or cycle rides past eye-catching street art and historic landmarks (p210).

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PATISSERIES AND BOULANGERIES Baguettes and pastries fuel Parisians, and a daily trip to the bakery is routine for most. A buttery croissant anywhere else will never compare.

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MARKETS Rain or shine, Paris’s street sellers spring to life each day. Bustling food markets colour nearly every neighbourhood, while the flea markets brim with hidden treasure.

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OPERA AND BALLET France raised the bar on ballet and opera under the Sun King. Savour the spectacular fruits of that legacy in the ornate Opéra Garnier (p172) and the modern Opéra Bastille (p106).

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HAUTE COUTURE Paris is a fashion capital and its designer stores are veritable temples to couture. Marvel at the dazzling displays that elevate clothing into fine art.

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EXPLORE

PARIS

Cimetière de Cimetière de Montmartre Montmartre

This guide divides Paris into 15 colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown on the map below. Find out more about each area on the following pages. For areas beyond the centre see p290.

MONTMARTRE MONTMARTR PIGALLE AND PIGALL

Place Place Clichy de Clichy deAND

p152

p152

Parc Parc Monceau Monceau

OPÉRAOPÉRA AND GRANDS AND GRAND BOULEVARDS BOULEVARDS p168

Arc de Arc de TriompheTriomphe

Place Place de l’Opérade l’Opéra

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND CHAILLOT AND CHAILLOT p212

Palais de Palais de Chaillot Chaillot

La

Eiffel Tower

p212

Place Place LOUVRE LOUVRE AND AND de la de la Concorde Concorde LES HALLES LES HALLES Jardin desJardin des p180 p180 Tuileries Tuileries

Seine a Seine L

Musée duMusée du Louvre Louvre

Musée duMusée Quai Branlydu Quai BranlyJacques Chirac Jacques Chirac

Jardins du Jardins du Trocadéro Trocadéro

EIFFELEIFFEL TOWERTOWER AND INVALIDES AND INVALIDES

Eiffel Tower

p196

P arc du P arc du Champ-deChamp-deMars Mars Place Joffre

p168

Opéra National Opéra National de Paris Garnier de Paris Garnier

Place Joffre

Musée Musée d'Orsay d'Orsay

p196

Dôme desDôme des Invalides Invalides

ST-GERMAINST-GERMAINDES-PRÉS DES-PRÉS p234

p234

Mu C

Jardin du Jardin du Luxembourg Luxembour

Place de Place de Breteuil Breteuil

MONTPARNASSE MONTPARNASSE AND AND JARDINJARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG DU LUXEMBOURG

WESTERN EUROPE

p278

NETHERLANDS

UNITED KINGDOM

BELGIUM

GERMANY

Lille

PARIS FRANCE

Atlantic Ocean

Bordeaux Toulouse SPAIN

SWITZERLAND

Lyon

Marseille Mediterranean Sea

Cimetière du Cimetière du Montparnasse Montparnasse

Place Place Denfert- DenfertRochereauRochereau

Strasbourg

Rennes

p278

ITALY

Cité des Sciences Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie et de l’Industrie Parc de Parc de la Villette la Villette

SacréCoeur

SacréCoeur

LA VILLETTE LA VILLETTE p138

RE LE

p138

Place de Place de StalingradStalingrad

in ar t

t-M lS na

Ca

DS

Ca

na

lS

t-M

ar t

in

Parc des Parc des Buttes-Chaumont Buttes-Chaumont

RÉPUBLIQUE RÉPUBLIQUE AND AND CANALCANAL ST-MARTIN ST-MARTIN p114

Parc de Parc de Belleville Belleville

p114

BELLEVILLE BELLEVILLE AND AND MÉNILMONTANT MÉNILMONTANT

Place Place de la de la RépubliqueRépublique

p126

D S PompidouPompidou Centre Centre

Cimetière du Cimetière du Père Lachaise Père Lachaise

Musée Musée Picasso Paris Picasso Paris

Place Place THE de l’Hotel de l’Hotel de Ville de Ville

p84

ÎLE DE ÎLE LA CITÉ DE LA CITÉ AND ÎLE AND ST-LOUIS ÎLE ST-LOUIS p66

Place Voltaire

MARAIS THE MARAIS p84

p126

Place de la Bastille

p66

Place Voltaire

BASTILLE BASTILLE AND AND OBERKAMPF OBERKAMPF Place p100 de la Bastille

p100

LATIN LATIN usée de Musée de Cluny QUARTER Cluny QUARTER p248

La

p248

La

in

in

e

e

PanthéonPanthéon

Se

Se

rg

Jardin desJardin des Plantes Plantes

Muséum National Muséum National d'Histoired'Histoire Naturelle Naturelle

JARDINJARDIN DES PLANTES DES PLANTES AND PLACE AND PLACE D’ITALIE D’ITALIE p262

Place d’Italie

Parc de Bercy

Parc de Bercy

p262

Place d’Italie

0 metres 0 metres 800 0 yards 0 yards 800

N 800 N 800

PARIS

Paris is a patchwork of neighbourhoods, each with a history and essence of its own. The Seine runs through the heart of the city, creating its Right and Left banks, while the main sightseeing areas are enclosed by the Périphérique, a ring road that separates the city centre from the suburbs.

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Paris

GETTING TO KNOW

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ÎLE DE LA CITÉ AND ÎLE ST-LOUIS Located in the heart of Paris, these two islands are cornucopias of must-see sights. Île de la Cité houses both Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle, masterpieces of Gothic architecture, while Île St-Louis is full of boutiques and cafés. Former royal palaces – such as the Conciergerie, where Marie-Antoinette was held prisoner – double as administrative buildings, giving even the day-to-day a frisson of enthralling history. Both islands are an essential, and inevitable, part of a Parisian excursion.

Best for

Sightseeing and strolling along the river

Home to

Notre-Dame, Sainte-Chapelle

Experience

The awe-inspiring Gothic architecture of Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle

Best for

Full of fashionable boutiques and restaurants, the Marais is the neighbourhood visitors return to over and over again. Its noble origins are apparent in the Renaissance mansions repurposed for the likes of Chanel and the Musée Carnavalet. Along Rue des Rosiers, the scent of freshly fried falafel wafts through the air as the city’s best Jewish bakeries prepare poppyseed pastries. Parisians spend afternoons mingling at the Place des Vosges, with its lime trees set against the rosy bricks of a former royal residence.

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THE MARAIS

Shopping, dining, history, architecture, LGBT+ life

Home to

Musée Picasso Paris, Pompidou Centre

Experience

The trendy boutiques and the scenic Place des Vosges

BASTILLE AND OBERKAMPF Gritty and lively, these areas east of the Marais make up for a lack of major tourist attractions with stellar dining options. Trendy coffee shops, independent boutiques and innovative bars draw a younger, multicultural crowd from across the city. Flâneurs can enjoy the elevated Coulée Verte René-Dumont for a bucolic stroll above the streets, or wander the markets at Aligre and along Boulevard Richard Lenoir – both sell fresh flowers and mounds of seasonal produce. Those looking for a taste of local life will find it here. Best for Nightlife and restaurants

Home to Place de la Bastille

Experience

The magnificent Colonne de Juillet and a stroll along the elevated Coulée Verte René-Dumont

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Best for

Coffee lovers and getting off the beaten track in style

These areas have recently transformed into exciting, somewhat quirky destinations. Characterized by the bobos (bohemian-bourgeois Parisians) who helped gentrify it, the canal is a hotspot for daytime coffee dates and evening picnics, fuelled by an extensive selection of cafés. Shoppers should head to the pockets of boutiques specializing in homewares, clothing and jewellery. This is the side of Paris that few visitors see but are exceedingly happy to find.

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Paris

RÉPUBLIQUE AND CANAL ST-MARTIN

Home to

Canal St-Martin

Experience

The Musée des Moulages medical museum and a pizza picnic beside the canal

BELLEVILLE AND MÉNILMONTANT Far from the beaten path, Belleville and Ménilmontant are local enclaves that are little visited by tourists. Artists toil away in their galleries and in the streets, turning thoroughfares such as Rue Dénoyez into open-air artworks, while Asian restaurants and shops attract locals who want a break from duck confit. Hipsters and international residents have made their home in these characterful areas, which offer a rewarding glimpse into everyday Parisian life. Best for

Ethnic food and experiencing local life

Home to

Cimetière du Père Lachaise

Experience

A hunt for the tombs of famous figures such as Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père Lachaise

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LA VILLETTE On the city’s northeast edge, the canal cuts a broad path through this green park that’s as family friendly as it is cultural. The stunning Jean Nouveldesigned Philharmonie towers like a spaceship while the science centre and playground across the water provide endless entertainment for kids. Joggers and cyclists appreciate the traffic-free pathways, and in spring and summer concerts and outdoor movies soundtrack the evenings. Parisians of all ages head here to while away the time with a glass of rosé as the clinking of their pétanque balls echoes over the water. Best for

Music lovers and getting some fresh air

Home to

Parc de la Villette, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Experience

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Playing pétanque along the canal or taking in a show at the Philharmonie de Paris

MONTMARTRE AND PIGALLE Although the area around the Moulin Rouge is still dotted with sordid “love” shops and seedy bars, Montmartre and Pigalle have become fashionable destinations for diners and shoppers. Pigalle’s red lights have given way to some of the city’s best pastry shops, boutique hotels and designer stores. Visitors still love browsing the art at Place du Tertre and soaking up the view of Paris from atop hilly Montmartre, where the cobbled streets and quaint houses retain a 19th-century village feel that few other districts reproduce. Best for

A night out and great views

Home to

Sacré-Coeur

Experience

The sound of buskers on the steps in front of the Sacré-Coeur while watching the sun set over the city

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Paris 20

OPÉRA AND GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Best for

Shoppers and theatre-goers

Home to

Studded with theatres and crowned by the Opéra Garnier, this district epitomizes Baron Haussmann’s plans for Paris, with monuments at every intersection. Its broad avenues, lined with exquisite churches and wallet-emptying department stores, attract Parisians and camera-toting tourists alike. This is the place to stroll, shop and repeat, whether it’s for rose-flavoured macarons from Ladurée’s original shop or a luxury bag from Printemps.

Opéra National de Paris Garnier

LOUVRE AND LES HALLES

Best for

Paris’s former royal palace and central market are as lively as ever. The Musée du Louvre, with its infamous glass pyramid and the Mona Lisa, needs no introduction. The stately manicured gardens of the adjacent Tuileries house cafés and other art galleries. Les Halles was historically the hub of food distribution in the city, and the smells of ripened cheeses and fresh baguettes still tempt shoppers along Rue Montorgueil. It’s all about cuisine here, from fine dining to street food, and wine bars and cocktail clubs shake up the nights.

Experience

Shopping for perfume under the Art Nouveau cupola of Galeries Lafayette, before heading nextdoor to Printemps’ rooftop café

Shopping, dining and history

Home to

Musée du Louvre

Experience

Coming face to face with the Mona Lisa before sampling pastries along Rue Montorgueil

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EIFFEL TOWER AND INVALIDES This corner of town is grandiose and ornate, with the gold-topped Dôme des Invalides soaring against the skyline. Full of history and artifacts, it plays second fiddle to the neighbourhood’s real star: the Iron Lady herself, the Eiffel Tower, rising at the edge of the river. Away from the chaos of tours and elevator lines, this district also offers quaint streets such as Rue Cler, where colourful, buttery pastries await. Some of the city’s top restaurants aren’t far away. If Michelin stars are out of the budget then a picnic on the Champde-Mars underneath the tower will do, with the appropriate bottle of oaky red wine, of course.

Best for

Sightseeing and fine dining

Home to

Eiffel Tower, Dôme des Invalides, Musée du Quai Branly–Jacques Chirac

Experience

Stunning views from atop the Eiffel Tower before paying homage to Napoleon at his tomb at the Invalides

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Paris 22

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND CHAILLOT The world’s most beautiful avenue still has a shine to it. Although its shops are mainly frequented by tourists, it’s worth a visit for the iconic stores and the monumental Arc de Triomphe. Well-heeled Parisians do live nearby, but are more likely to be found at one of the museums at the Palais de Chaillot. Luxury shoppers will revel along the Avenue Montaigne, and the area’s palace hotels are the perfect place for a ritzy afternoon tea or evening cocktail.

Best for

Window shopping and Michelin-starred dining

Home to

Arc de Triomphe, Palais de Chaillot

Experience

A dip into the Petit Palais exhibition hall before splashing out on a terrace coffee on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées

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ST-GERMAINDES-PRÉS Cafés line the streets and squares of this iconic district – the chocolates and pastries are some of the city’s best. Shoppers delight in the boutiques and art galleries found here – Le Bon Marché in particular captivates shoppers who walk through its perfume-laden halls. A smattering of museums and centuriesold churches attracts tourists, but locals continue to lay claim to this bohemian enclave. There’s no better place to rub elbows with true-blooded Parisians than in one of the neighbourhood’s plentiful cafés and bars. Best for

Strolling and people watching

Home to

Musée d’Orsay

Experience

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Local life at one of the legendary cafés while nibbling macarons

LATIN QUARTER

Best for

From Romans ruins to Hollywood backdrops, the Latin Quarter is beloved by Parisians and travellers alike. Café crowds are decidedly younger than most, filled with university students from the Collège de France and La Sorbonne. Every block seems to have a bookstore, from obscure academic shops to the bursting shelves of the famed Shakespeare and Company. Peppered along the tiny twisting streets are crêpe stands and dive bars, all offset by the grandeur of stunning sights such as the Panthéon, Musée de Cluny and Church of St-Étienne-du-Mont.

Home to

Budget travel and history lovers The Panthéon

Experience

Shopping for a picnic at the Marché Maubert and discussing philosophy with students around the Sorbonne

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Paris

JARDIN DES PLANTES AND PLACE D’ITALIE Many people stop at the Latin Quarter, leaving this corner of the Left Bank less busy than the rest. The flowering Jardin des Plantes is home to natural history galleries and a zoo, and is a popular spot with Parisian families at weekends. A stroll along Rue Mouffetard delights with cheese and pastry shops, while architectural surprises such as the mosque or the national library make an exciting break from the traditional Parisian cityscape. Best for

Family days out in any weather

Home to

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Experience

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Sipping mint tea at the Grande Mosquée de Paris after visiting Europe’s second-oldest zoo

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MONTPARNASSE AND JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG

Best for

Old and new Paris come together in this patch of the Left Bank, where traditional cafés nestle alongside modern tower blocks. Parisians gather al fresco in the gorgeous Jardin du Luxembourg, while in-the-know visitors head to the Tour Montparnasse and the Catacombs. Locals still congregate at the belle époque brasseries, where the appetizing smell of lentils and sausages is accompanied by the sound of clinking beers.

Experience

A day at the playground and belle époque dining

Home to

Cimetière du Montparnasse The cavernous underground Catacombs before ascending the Tour Montparnasse for a unique perspective of the city

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BEYOND THE CENTRE

Best for

Beyond the Périphérique (Paris’s ring road), two natural parks act as the city’s green lungs. The Bois de Vincennes and Bois de Boulogne offer lakes for boating, paths for strolling and châteaus for exploring, as well as attractions such as the contemporary Fondation Louis Vuitton art gallery and an innovative zoo. Disneyland® Paris grants families another day-long escape, while history buffs will enjoy an outing to the palace and gardens at Versailles, a 17th-century Disneyland® in its own right.

Home to

Getting out of Paris Bois de Boulogne, Bois de Vincennes, the Palace and Gardens of Versailles, Disneyland® Paris

Experience

The sumptuous estate of Versailles or taking some air in one of Paris’s green lungs

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DISCOVER Paris Itineraries 1

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1 The interior of Notre-Dame, before the 2019 fire 2 The Pont des Arts 3 Shakespeare and Company bookshop in the Latin Quarter

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4 Jardin des Tuileries

Paris is a treasure trove of things to see and do, and its relatively compact size means that much exploring can be done on foot. These itineraries will inspire you to make the most of your visit.

5 HOURS If you only have a few hours in Paris, a stroll along the River Seine is an ideal way to take in a plethora of sights. Begin in the Marais at the Hôtel de Ville (p95), the ornate city hall. Cross the river onto Île de la Cité, one of the oldest areas in Paris and home to major attractions such as Notre-Dame (p70). Pause outside the splendid cathedral to see the latest developments before continuing your walk past the similarly impressive SainteChapelle (p74). At the island’s western tip, a statue of King Henri IV stands on the Pont Neuf (p78), the city’s oldest bridge. Cross the bridge and head west towards the Louvre (p184), rising unmistakably just a few blocks away. Walk through its courtyard and admire the elegant wings and iconic pyramid, after stopping for coffee and a snack at Le Fumoir, located on Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny, behind the massive museum. There’s no time to go inside to admire the art, but the beautifully manicured Jardin des Tuileries (p191) offers an inviting stroll through flower beds and leafy walkways lined with statues. Enter the gardens through the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (p192), one of two monumental arches built by Napoleon.

At the gardens’ far end, looking onto the Place de la Concorde (p222) and its Egyptian obelisk, sweeping views take in the Grand Palais (p223), the Arc de Triomphe (p216) and the Eiffel Tower (p200). Walk down to the square and cross the river towards the National Assembly (p210), home to the lower house of the French Parliament. Follow the reclaimed riverbanks of the Berges de Seine (p210) east towards the Musée d’Orsay (p238), identifiable by its twin clock towers. Continue on Quai Voltaire towards the Pont des Arts (p245), which affords great photo opportunities. Proceed back along the Left Bank, browsing the stalls of the bouquinistes (used-book vendors), arriving at Place St-Michel (p256). Visit one of the many nearby bookshops, such as Shakespeare and Company (p258), before heading past Notre-Dame to intimate Île St-Louis. This little island sports no grand tourist attractions, but is the place to grab a cone of Berthillon ice cream (p77). End your stroll with a glass of wine and dinner at the Brasserie de l’Isle Saint-Louis on Quai de Bourbon, enjoying views of the Seine.

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DISCOVER Paris Itineraries 1

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1 Pretty Canal St-Martin 2 The Colonne de Juillet and Bassin de l’Arsenal marina 3 Les Philosophes café

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4 An exhibit in the Muséum National d’ Histoire Naturelle

24 HOURS Morning Start with coffee and a pastry along the Canal St-Martin (p118). Hipster coffee joints are in abundance here, and a take-away cappuccino pairs perfectly with a chocolate croissant from Du Pain et des Idées, the district’s best bakery, on Rue Yves Toudic. Sit with your breakfast beside the canal, its green bridges arching gracefully over the water. Stroll the area and its shops on your way to the Upper Marais, just across nearby Place de la République, then live out noble fantasies while exploring the 17th-century mansion that houses the Musée Picasso (p88). Browse the art and relax with a drink on the rooftop terrace before continuing.

Afternoon Enter the heart of the Marais by foot, stopping for lunch in a café such as Les Philosophes on Rue Vieille du Temple, or queueing for the entirely worthwhile falafel at L’As du Fallafel (p92) on Rue des Rosiers. Indulge in some retail therapy before ducking down onto the Seine, along the Berges Rive Droite. This

riverside pathway allows traffic-free strolling and features boats doubling as cafés. Cross a bridge onto Île St-Louis and make your way over to the Left Bank. Just to the east is the pristine Jardin des Plantes (p268), an enclave for botany enthusiasts and a haven for anyone who appreciates natural beauty. It’s also home to the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (p266), which is worth a quick look. At the far end of the garden, pause for some mint tea at the Grande Mosquée de Paris (p268), just beyond the garden’s gates.

Evening Head back to the river and cross, walking along the stretch of canal that leads towards Place de la Bastille (p104). Its Colonne de Juillet is visible from a distance. Plan on eating somewhere in the neighbourhood, such as Bistrot Paul Bert on Rue Paul Bert or Septime (p107) on Rue de Charonne, for a true Parisian dinner. Then hang around for drinks and cocktails in the vicinity of Rue de la Roquette (p107), where the nightlife is sure to catch you up in its excitement.

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DISCOVER Paris Itineraries 1

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1 The opulent Hall of Mirrors in the palace of Versailles 2 Cruising the Seine at sunset 3 A classic French breakfast

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4 Art for sale in Place du Tertre in Montmartre

3 DAYS Day 1 Morning Start the day in St-Germain-des-

Prés with coffee and a croissant at any café, then take a leafy stroll through the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg (p286). Dip into St-Sulpice church (p243) to inspect the Delacroix paintings before going shopping along Boulevard St-Germain. Afternoon Follow Rue de Seine towards

the river, stopping for lunch at La Palette, a traditional café serving delicious croque monsieur. Stroll the Île de la Cité, home to Notre-Dame (p70), before renting a Vélib’ bicycle and heading west to explore the Eiffel Tower (p200). Dare to walk the stairs if the queue for the elevator is too long. Evening Have dinner nearby at Café

Constant (p209), which serves classic French dishes. Follow this with a boat ride down the Seine as the sun sets.

Day 2 Morning Begin in hilly Montmartre, with

a quick visit to the Sacré-Coeur basilica (p156). Browse the artists selling their wares in the open-air gallery of Place du Tertre (p158), then visit the Musée de Montmartre (p160) for a quick lesson on the 19th-century artists that made the district famous. Afternoon Have lunch at Le Sancerre on

Rue des Abbesses before heading down the hill towards Rue des Martyrs (p165),

laden with pastry shops and boutiques. Consider a late afternoon jaunt through the Louvre (p184) to see the highlights, including Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. Soak up the views of the exterior with a coffee stop at the Café Marly, under the arcades of the Richelieu wing. Evening Head to Les Halles for dinner at

Champeaux (p189). Sip wine and peoplewatch for the rest of the evening along charming Rue Montorgueil, or take in the dreamy, late-night cityscape from the banks of the Seine, watching out for the Eiffel Tower’s on-the-hour light show.

Day 3 Morning Travel less than an hour out of

the city to Versailles (p296). Wander the world-famous gardens and 17th-century château, renowned for its opulent Hall of Mirrors. Afternoon Splurge on lunch at Ore (p299),

an ornate little restaurant situated inside the château. Be sure to visit the outer estates, including the queen’s fairy-tale hamlet with a working farm. Evening Head back to Paris and share

a bottle at an intimate venue like Willi’s Wine Bar on Rue des Petits Champs, near the Louvre. If you’ve still got room after your lunch, have dinner in style at one of the city’s iconic belle époque brasseries such as Bofinger (p107) or La Rotonde (p147).

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DISCOVER Paris Your Way

PARIS FOR

ART LOVERS

Numerous figures have shaken up the art scene from the French capital, from Monet and the Impressionists to Dalí and the Surrealists. Countless masterpieces adorn Paris’s greatest museums, while private galleries and even the streets offer a more personal look at contemporary art in the city. World-Class Museums Whatever your interest in art, one of Paris’s museums has a collection of it. Highlights include the soaring gallery of the Musée d’Orsay (p238), a former train station famed for its Impressionist works, and the fascinating modern galleries of the Fondation Louis Vuitton (p292). Try to escape Mona Lisa’s gaze while exploring the superlative collection at the Louvre (p184), before snaking up the panoramic escalator of the Pompidou Centre (p90) to marvel at Mondrian’s deceptively simple squares. Smaller museums dedicated to Monet (p304) and Picasso (p88) will leave you swooning for these artistic icons.

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The courtyard of the Louvre, home to many world-famous works

Create Your Own Collection Paris is a nirvana for art collectors with any budget. High-end art galleries along the Left Bank sell some of the city’s most sought-after works, while at Place du Tertre in Montmartre (p158) you can mingle with local artists selling their canvases for a bargain. Visit the studios of little-known artists in Belleville (p137) – they might end up selling you something you didn’t even know was for sale.

Place du Tertre in Montmartre, a hotspot for local artists exhibiting and sellingtheir work (below)

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ART MUSEUMS

Musée du Louvre The world’s most visited museum and home of the Mona Lisa (p184). Musée d’Orsay Dedicated to Western art between 1848 and 1914, its main draw is Impressionism (p238). Musée Picasso Paris The greatest collection of the legendary artist’s iconic works (p88). Pompidou Centre An eye-catching modern building that houses an equally memorable art collection (p90). Palais de Toyko A daring, and often overlooked, contemporary collection (p229).

Striking Street Art From the wily Space Invaders that dot the city to the work of the iconic Miss.Tic, Paris is a haven for street art. Some of it appears clandestinely overnight while other murals, especially around the Canal St-Martin or even along Rue Dénoyez in Belleville (p133), are city initiatives to encourage street artists. Explore these ever-changing works by taking a wander around eastern Paris, or booking a tour with Street Art Tour Paris.

Some colourful street art in front of Le Barbouquin on Rue Dénoyez

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Rue Cremieux Located by the Gare de Lyon (p108), Rue Cremieux and its colourful buildings are the stuff of Instagram lore. While the rest of the neighbourhood provides precious little beauty, these pastel façades shine on a sunny day.

Rue Cremieux, one of the prettiest streets in Paris

PARIS FOR

PHOTOGRAPHERS Paris can’t help being photogenic – it’s where photography was born in the 1800s with the daguerreotype, so the city has a history of smiling at the camera. Here’s an insider’s guide to finding Paris’s most picturesque spots. Eiffel Tower in a Puddle It’s as clichéd as it comes, but who cares? Put a rainy day in Paris to creative use. The Champ-de-Mars (p211) is riddled with puddles after a shower, so score your own artful photo by taking a lowangled shot of the Eiffel Tower reflected in a pool of water. To pack your picture with extra punch, use the trees along the park’s avenues to create leading lines that draw the viewer’s eye to the tower in the middle – a framing technique that works just as well if you’re shooting in dry weather.

A classic shot of the Eiffel Tower and its watery reflection

Rooftop View Shots of the roofs of Paris are best taken from atop Printemps (p177). Ride the escalator to the department store’s roof for a postcard-perfect view. Looking northward in the early evening, the SacréCoeur glistens as Paris illuminates itself.

The view from the top of Printemps at twilight

FAMOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS OF PARIS Parisian painter Louis Daguerre was one of the fathers of modern photography and the inventor of the daguerreotype. It was here in the city, on Boulevard du Temple, that he experimented with his innovative technology to take what became known as the first candid photo of a person: a man getting a shoeshine. Later French photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson and Robert Doisneau helped turn photography into an art with their inventive shots of the city.

The illusory “sinking house” on a bright summer day

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Sunset Shot Capture the golden hour in Paris on a bridge by Île de la Cité, looking west at the sunset.

The “Sinking House” The “sinking house” in Montmartre is a popular shot with travellers and locals alike. Walk up the stairs to the Sacré-Coeur (p156) and look to the right on the final flight, where you will see the corner of a perfectly upright orangeand-cream apartment building peeking out behind the lawn. To create the optical illusion, tilt your camera to follow the angle of the grass.

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DISCOVER Paris Your Way

Go Wild at the Zoo Paris has two zoos, and both will captivate small children and teens alike. Meet the worldfamous primates at the Ménagerie in the Jardin des Plantes (p268), Europe’s second oldest zoo, with enclosures dating back to the time of Napoleon. At the modern zoo in the Bois de Vincennes (p294), visitors are immersed in animal habitats such as the grassy African savannah, where lanky giraffes and lazy lions await.

Exotic birdlife at the Parc Zoologique de Paris in the Bois de Vincennes

PARIS FOR

FAMILIES

Paris is a playground for kids, with engaging parks and gardens. Children – and adults – will delight in riding the carousel in the Jardin des Plantes, floating a colourful wooden sailboat in the Grand Bassin at the Jardin du Luxembourg or enjoying the beaches of the Paris Plages. Take a Boat Trip Boat cruises along the Seine or on the Canal St-Martin are a family favourite. Parents have the chance to relax while kids watch the city pass them by. Options along the Seine include Bateaux Mouches, Vedettes du Pont Neuf and Bateaux Parisiens, while the main company for the canal is Canauxrama. The 19th-century locks of the canal are especially curious, as is the cavernous tunnel that the tour takes you through.

A boat tour cruising along the Seine, past the Eiffel Tower

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Be a Chef for the Day The kitchen is the heart of any family, so learn to cook together with a class at La Cuisine Paris (p96). This wellappointed cooking school in the Marais offers English-language lessons in making a variety of traditional French dishes. Here you will discover how to make buttery croissants or roll out your own baguettes before tasting the fruits, or rather pastries, of your labour. It’s a sure-fire way to keep the whole family busy and smiling for a few hours, even if you all end up covered in flour.

Learning the basics of French baking at a cooking school

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RAINY DAY MUSEUMS

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle Home to thousands of impressive animal specimens (p266). Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature A collection of hunting trophies (p96). Aquarium de Paris An underwater wonderland situated across from the Eiffel Tower (p221). Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie A huge science museum, packed with interactive exhibits (p144).

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Eating Out Parisians don’t typically take their children to higher-end restaurants, so choose somewhere more family oriented, such as the chain Hippopotamus or the budget-friendly Chez Gladines (p255), where the food is still good but the atmosphere more relaxed.

Search for Hidden Treasure Paris’s museums are huge, but a treasure hunt provides an exciting new way of exploring them. A little rivalry, a bit of learning and a whole lot of fun await anyone who embarks on a hunt with THATMuse at the Louvre (p184) or Musée d’Orsay (p238).

Posing for a photograph as part of a treasure hunt at the Louvre

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Daily Bread Although French bread needs no introduction, there is, nevertheless, an art to choosing it. In Paris, all baguettes are not created equal. Ask for a baguette de tradition to get the Parisian favourite, a regulated loaf that has nothing beyond the essentials inside. Crusty and handmade, these baguettes are tastier and delectably chewier than some regular crumbly baguettes. Try a baguette bien cuite if you like your bread well-baked and extra crispy.

Fresh, crunchy baguettes, available for sale at any neighbourhood boulangerie

PARIS FOR

FOODIES

Paris is legendary for its cuisine, so make sure you pack your appetite. Whether it's haute cuisine, rich, buttery pastries or rustic regional dishes, the city's delectable array of fresh, quality produce will delight your taste buds – though perhaps not your waistline. Flavourful fromage Cheese is a way of life in France and punctuates any worthwhile meal. Cheesemongers dot Paris’s streets and markets with hundreds of different pungent, subtle and salty varieties, their shops lined with huge, aged wheels and fresh, delicate discs. Try a bit of everything, following the vendor’s suggestions, and don’t be shy to ask for tips on assembling the perfect mix of creamy, sharp and stinky goat, cow and sheep’s milk cheeses.

An array of delicious cheeses on display at a market stall

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ETHNIC CUISINES IN PARIS

With its multicultural population, the city also offers diners an amazing selection of world flavours – particularly those of France’s former colonies. North African Couscous and tagine are popular dishes. Vietnamese Waves of immigration mean stellar bo bun and banh mi. Middle Eastern Falafel in the Marais is unparalleled. Japanese Ramen around Rue Ste-Anne is worth the wait.

Mouthwatering pastries for sale in one of the city’s many patisseries, where delicate macarons (above) are a regular feature

MARKET STREETS Shop like a Parisian on market streets, where stores focus on specific goods and outdoor stalls often pop up at weekends. Trendy Rue Montorgueil is a good stop for bread and cheese, while pastries are the draw on Rue Cler (p209). Sample caramels and candies on Rue des Martyrs (p165) or shop for fresh produce along Rue Mouffetard (p269).

Heavenly Patisserie From the mighty macaron and spongy madeleines to creamy éclairs and tangy lemon tarts, Paris’s patisseries are where taste buds go to be reawakened. Every corner bakery produces its own sweet, buttery or otherwise decadent versions of the classics. If there’s a queue at your chosen boutique, chances are you’ve made the right choice.

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Opera and Ballet

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

The palatial Opéra Garnier (p172), home to the ballet, is a fairy-tale experience. Showing both opera and dance productions, it’s a classic dose of Paris’s musical heritage. The more modern Opéra Bastille (p106), a stunning glass venue, lacks the romance but delivers on acoustics. There’s not a bad seat in the house from which to take in a production.

A ballet performance at the Opéra Garnier, the historic home of the ballet

PARIS FOR

LIVE MUSIC

From elegant symphonies to buskers in the Metro, Paris is a constant concert. World-class singers belt out centuries-old operas on stages that also welcome contemporary musical comedies or the latest pop artist. In the streets, the hum of accordions and funky jazz renditions infuse the air.

Paris Philharmonic The glittering Philharmonie de Paris (p147) immerses spectators in the musical experience. You’re never more than 32 m (105 ft) from the conductor, and cutting-edge acoustics mean you won’t miss even the softest flute. Home to Paris’s symphony, it’s a daring space that will envelop you in sound.

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Chinese pianist Lang Lang performing at the Philharmonie de Paris

Contemporary Music Contemporary music flourishes in Paris, and local venues such as La Maroquinerie (p134) host up-andcoming artists. Familiar faces grace the stages of L’Olympia, where Edith Piaf famously sang, while smaller venues like La Cigale offer a more intimate concert experience. Major pop and rock acts pass through the arena by Bercy (p111), or even the Stade de France, for massive, bass-blowing concerts.

Major Lazer performing at L’Olympia

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Music Festival Celebrate the summer solstice with street buskers and concerts during June’s all-night Fête de la Musique (p58).

Musical Theatre Paris has no Broadway or West End, but its growing musical theatre scene has French audiences applauding at the stage call. Experience classics such as My Fair Lady and Singin’ in the Rain in English amid the splendour of the revamped 19th-century Théâtre du Châtelet. For French versions of modern musicals, from Grease to Mamma Mia!, head to the Théâtre Mogador (p175) in the Opéra district. TOP

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JAZZ VENUES

Sunset-Sunside An intimate venue in Châtelet. La Petite Halle A newcomer on the scene in La Villette. Duc des Lombards In the Latin Quarter and practically a pilgrimage for musical artists. New Morning An obligatory stop for real jazz enthusiasts. Chez Papa An elegant jazz venue with restaurant.

Homes of the musicals, the Théâtre du Châtelet and Théâtre Mogador (inset)

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Idyllic Gardens

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

Flowers seem to bloom year-round in Paris’s gardens. The hidden Jardin du PalaisRoyal (p188) features fragrant roses, while the Jardin des Plantes (p268) grows exotic specimens from around the globe. The Luxembourg (p286) and Tuileries (p191) gardens are exquisite examples of royal property turned public.

An avenue of trees within the arcade-lined enclosure of the Jardin du Palais-Royal

PARIS FOR

GREEN SPACES

Perfectly manicured flower beds, sheared and shaped shrubbery, and spouting fountains decorate every corner of Paris. Former royal hunting grounds and private gardens are today lush green spaces where locals congregate to stroll or play a friendly game of pétanque.

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LOCAL FAVOURITES

These lesser-known green spaces are popular spots where locals relax. Parc des ButtesChaumont Hilly, picnic-friendly and popular on weekends (p146). Parc Monceau Well-heeled Parisians picnic here (p226). Parc de la Villette The place for football matches and jogging (p142). Place des Vosges A tiny green space in a royal setting (p92).

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Innovative Reclaimed Space Some of Paris’s most successful modern green spaces have flourished out of former industrial expanses. Visit the Coulée Verte René-Dumont (p106), an elevated train track that traded trains for tulips – the entire walkway is akin to a hanging garden sitting above the city. The Berges de Seine (p210), a pedestrianized roadway along the river, features barges doubling as floating gardens.

The Coulée Verte René-Dumont, on a former railway track

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Flower Market The Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II (p77) is a gardener’s playground. Flowers spill onto the street, while bulbs, seeds and tools fill the market stalls.

Relaxing Parks In the 19th century, city planners built two green lungs – the Bois de Boulogne (p292) and Bois de Vincennes (p294) – on either side of Paris. Natural woodland, peaceful ponds and seemingly endless trails form this pair of bucolic havens. Each houses botanical gardens and various architectural features, as well as surprises such as an open-air theatre. Beyond the gardens of Versailles (p296), the vast Parc de Versailles allows visitors to wander through pristine parkland.

The verdant parkland of the Bois de Vincennes and Bois de Boulogne (inset)

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On Stage and Screen

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

As the location of Molière’s final performance (at the Palais-Royal) and home of the world’s oldest continuing theatre – the ComédieFrançaise, founded in 1680 – Paris has a rich pedigree when it comes to the stage. On the silver screen, the city has notably provided the backdrop to New Wave classics such as Breathless and Jules et Jim, and more recently to Amélie’s heartfelt quest for love in Montmartre – the Café des 2 Moulins, where she worked, can be visited on Rue Lepic.

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Famous Tombs Audrey Tautou as the title character in 2001’s charming Amélie

Visit icons such as Oscar Wilde and Edith Piaf at their final resting place in the Cimetière du Père Lachaise (p130).

PARIS FOR

INSPIRATION

Paris has inspired countless thinkers and artists over the years. The centre of the Enlightenment, a fashion hub and a popular location for films since the Lumière brothers invented the cinema, the city is rich in cultural capital. Trace the steps of its icons to stimulate your own imagination.

Iconic Residents From Chanel and Marie­Antoinette to Voltaire and Pasteur, Paris has hosted a long list of world­famous icons who have contributed to philosophy, art, science and culture. See Marie­ Antoinette’s bedchamber at Versailles (p296), sip coffee in Les Deux Magots as Hemingway did (p244) and pay homage to Chanel at her first boutique on Rue Cambon.

The legendary Chanel clothing boutique at 31 Rue Cambon TOP

Inside the opulent bedchamber of MarieAntoinette at the Palace of Versailles

Literary Paris The iconic Shakespeare and Company bookshop (p258), a Left Bank institu­ tion, is a testament to the staying power of the written word. Paris has been the backdrop for countless epic novels, including Notre Dame de Paris and Les Misérables. Search for the phantom at the Opéra Garnier (p172), stroll Rue Montorgueil like Florent in The Belly of Paris and keep an eye out for Les Misérables’ Gavroche around the Bastille (p104) – or maybe in Victor Hugo’s house (p93), where he penned his most famous work.

The Opéra Garnier, the setting for The Phantom of the Opera

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FOREIGN WRITERS WHO LIVED IN PARIS

Ernest Hemingway The US author wrote A Moveable Feast about his time living in Paris from 1921 to 1926. F Scott Fitzgerald US writer Fitzgerald lived in Montparnasse in the 1920s. George Orwell The English novelist tells of his experiences living in poverty in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933). James Joyce Irish writer Joyce lived in Paris from 1920 to 1940. Ulysses was published here in 1922. Anaïs Nin Novelist Nin met her lover, fellow American Henry Miller, in Paris.

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DISCOVER Paris Your Way

Visitors walking through the beautifully landscaped Jardin des Tuileries

PARIS ON A

SHOESTRING

Paris attracts droves of budget travellers with good reason. Free museums and green spaces keep visitors active during the day, while low-cost street food and happy hours make evenings a pleasure. And what beats a picnic along the Seine with a bargain bottle of wine, a baguette and some cheese? Churches Most churches in Paris are public property, open to visits for no fee. Avoid the tourist crowds at Sainte-Chapelle and the SacréCoeur, head instead for the beautiful St-Sulpice (p243), Paris’s second largest church, which houses paintings by Delacroix. St-Étienne-du-Mont (p257), next to the domed Panthéon, is often deserted, despite containing the tomb of St Geneviève – the patron saint of Paris. With stunning stained glass and countless artworks, these monuments are as awe-inspiring as they are budget-friendly.

The magnificent St-Étiennedu-Mont church

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Parks and Gardens From the top of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (p146) to the furthest reaches of the Bois de Boulogne (p292) and the Bois de Vincennes (p294), greenery in Paris is, generally, free. Discover the ornate Médici Fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg (p286) and view the obelisk at Place de la Concorde from the Jardin des Tuileries (p191). Have a pond-side picnic in Parc Monceau (p226) or join a game of pétanque in the Jardin du Palais-Royal (p188). It’s astonishing that these pristine parks and gardens require no fee, but such is the magic of Paris.

Locals playing a game of pétanque in the Jardin du Palais-Royal courtyard

TIPPING The great mystery of tipping has a simple answer: tip sometimes. For meals, round the bill to the closest euro if you must. For taxis, add a euro or two. In hotels, express gratitude to housekeeping. Your tour guide was stellar? Let it be known. But never feel like you have to add 15 percent for every experience. Employees in France get paid real salaries, so your tip expresses pure gratitude.

Did You Know? Many ticketed museums are free on the first Sunday of the month – check websites for details.

One of the lavishly decorated rooms in the Musée Carnavalet

Municipal Museums A number of city-run institutions such as the Maison de Victor Hugo (p93) and the Musée Carnavalet (p97), dedicated to Parisian history, are free. While special exhibitions are ticketed, the main collections are open to the public. Even contemporary art at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (p228) is accessible for visitors to view. The quaint Musée Cognacq-Jay (p92) fills a historical mansion, while the soaring Petit Palais (p223) is housed in an exhibition hall built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle.

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High-End Shopping The home of Chanel, Dior and Gaultier, Paris excels at high-end boutiques. Avenue Montaigne (p226) is a sight in and of itself, with all of the designer names that most will recognize and few can afford. These aren’t places to wander in casually in your trainers and shorts, they are the real deal – just ask the security guards who double as bouncers. Equally prestigious shops exist around Rue St-Honoré and in the St-Germain neighbourhood (p241), while the Marais has recently become a centre for men’s haute couture.

Rue St-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne (inset), two of the city’s most pretigious shopping streets

PARIS FOR

SHOPPERS

Paris is synonymous with fashion, and for many people Parisian style is the ultimate in chic. In addition to clothing, the city is also a treasure trove of boutiques selling one-of-a-kind items that you can’t get elsewhere. Whether it’s a flea market find or a scarf from Hermès, the fun is in the hunt. Department Stores Paris brought department store shopping to life with Le Bon Marché (p243). Today there are several emporiums to choose from, but the formula is the same. Browse the designer outlets on the ground floors, amid masses of visitors queueing for the latest bag, before ascending the escalators through floor after floor of multi-brand bliss. When it all gets too much, take a breather on the rooftop in the scenic café at Printemps (p177) or the deck at Galeries Lafayette (p175).

The stunning Art Nouveau interior of Galeries Lafayette

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COCO CHANEL Born into poverty and raised in an orphanage, the iconic Coco Chanel (1883–1971) opened her first shop in Paris in 1913. It sold hats and sportswear made from simple fabrics such as jersey, which proved popular with women seeking relief from restrictive corsets. The designer revolutionized fashion in the 1920s with the introduction of the little black dress and the launch of Chanel No.5, the first perfume to bear the name of a designer.

Did You Know? The “Made in France” label signifies products that are authentic local items.

Flea Markets

Shoppers browsing the wares at the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen

Parisians frequently sell their belongings, and flea markets attract shoppers each weekend. The maze-like Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen at Porte de Clignancourt (p305) is the place to spend money on antique lamps, chairs and other homewares to create your own personal Versailles. Browse, feign interest and bargain when necessary – perhaps not on the €5 trinket box, but the €5,000 Louis XV chair may be negotiable.

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World War II Scars

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

Hitler gave orders for Paris to be levelled at the end of the Nazi Occupation, but they were disobeyed by the general in charge of the city, who instead surrendered. Relatively few physical scars remain from the Occupation of 1940–44, but marks on the front of the police office on Île de la Cité (p77) recall skirm­ ishes between Resistance fighters and German forces.

The police office on Île de la Cité, the scene of fighting during World War II

PARIS FOR

HISTORY BUFFS There are more than two millennia of history to visit in Paris. From Viking invasions and plagues to Revolution and Nazi Occupation, the past comes alive in the museums, streets and cafés – basically everywhere.

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HISTORY MUSEUMS

Musée de l’Armée Military history from medieval knights to Charles de Gaulle (p204). Musée Carnavalet An in depth exploration of the history of Paris, located in two former mansions (p97). Pavillon de l’Arsenal Houses an exhibition charting the evolution of architecture in Paris (p93). Musée de Cluny Specializes in medieval history, and also houses Gallo­Roman ruins (p254).

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The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel at the entrance to the Jardin des Tuileries

Napoleonic Memorials The mark of the 19th­century emperors Napoleon I and his nephew, Napoleon III, is visible throughout the city. If you see an “N” on a bridge or monument, as on the façade of the Louvre (p184), it’s easy to date that particular work to one of those men. Napoleon I also commissioned several monuments in his own honour, including the Arc de Triomphe (p216), the smaller Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (p192) and the bronze column in Place Vendôme (p193).

Roman Remains Few are aware that Paris was once a bustling Roman town. Boulevard St-Michel is a former Roman road, and ruins of the baths there are still on display next to the Musée de Cluny (p254). The enormous Arènes de Lutèce (p268), which today hosts football matches and playdates, once was a staging ground for Roman theatre and combats.

The ruins of the Arènes de Lutèce, once a vast Roman arena

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Historic Tales Test your French by reading the 700 or so Histoire de Paris signs all over the city, which recount historic events at the location where they happened. The oar-shaped plaques were designed by Philippe Starck.

Napoleon’s commem­ orative column in Place Vendôme

The Flame of Liberty More recent history is commemorated by impromptu memorials such as the Flame of Liberty. A copy of the torch held by the statue of the Lady Liberty in New York, it originally symbolized French–US relations. Today it informally honours Princess Diana, who tragically met her fate in 1997 in a The golden Flame car accident in the of Liberty, a tribute road tunnels below. to Princess Diana

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

PARIS

RAISE A GLASS

Parisians have always enjoyed their tipples. Wine, imported from all over France, remains a staple, while a new wave of cocktail bars have reinvented how the city enjoys spirits. Beer, once brewed in belle époque brasseries, now gets the craft treatment in hip, upstart breweries. Craft Beer French beer has historically never been something to write home about. Today, however, bolshy breweries like Goutte d’Or and Paname Brewing Company (p151) are changing all that. The brasseries of the 19th century have ceded their hops and barley to younger brewers bringing craft beer to Paris. Sample their wares at establishments like La Fine Mousse (p108), which specializes in French and international craft beers.

The impressive beer selection at La Fine Mousse

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Innovative Wine Parisian wine tastes have moved far beyond the clichés of red with meat and white with fish. While there’s no reason to stray from French wine in the city, prepare to experiment with pairings that you might not have considered. When in doubt, always trust your server, who can advise you which bottle will suit your needs. And if you’re still unsure, sample the house wine – often a sure-fire monthly offering.

Red wine flowing at a dinner among friends, and for sale at one of the city’s many wine shops (below)

WINE TASTING Booking an official tasting is often the best way to engage more fully with French wine. At Ô Château (p193), Englishspeaking specialists offer tastings, a Champagne cruise and even a dinner where you can discover multiple vintages. Classes at Le Foodist include a cheese pairing, doubling as lunch with charcuterie, olives and wine samplings. Tastings with Paris Wine Walks (www. paris-wine-walks.com) include a visit to a living vineyard to discover the roots of Paris’s wine history.

Creative Cocktails Bars like Candelaria and Prescription Cocktail Club have fully opened Parisian eyes to cocktails, a revolution that began over a century ago with the legendary Harry’s Bar (p175). A new wave of bartenders play with a variety of ingredients and flavours, creating a host of inventive concoctions. Sit back and enjoy the show, and have your patience rewarded with an Instagram-worthy cocktail that also tickles the tastebuds.

The attractive façade of the cocktail bar Candelaria

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Above the Skyline Paris rose to new heights in the modern era. At first declared an eyesore, the 19th-century Eiffel Tower (p200) became a symbol of the city with its brown iron lattices. Enjoy a bird’s-eye perspective of Paris from its viewing gallery. Alternatively, ascend the 20th-century Tour Montparnasse (p284) for panoramic views from a different angle. While not as elegant as the Iron Lady, its green makeover for the 2024 Olympic Games promises a change, joining shimmering contemporary structures like the Fondation Louis Vuitton (p292) and the Philharmonie de Paris (p147).

The view from the Tour Montparnasse, looking towards the Eiffel Tower

PARIS FOR

ARCHITECTURE

Planned and perfected, Paris showcases centuries of architectural styles. Jagged Gothic façades, soaring Neo-Classical domes and dazzling modern buildings dot the city. Admire Paris from a fresh perspective by tracing the city’s architecture from its subterranean depths to the tip of the Eiffel Tower.

KEY ARCHITECTURAL STYLES Gothic: this imposing style flourished in France, most famously at Notre-Dame (p70). Baroque: the lavish decoration of Versailles (p296) is typical of this style.

Overhead Most of Paris’s architecture dates from the 19th century, when the city planner Baron Haussmann redesigned most of the city. His fashionable architectural innovations spread across France, and even to other countries. Amble along Haussmann’s sweeping tree-lined boulevards and gaze up at the uniform façades that are a signature of his style. He was also known for the monumental intersections he created around lofty buildings, such as the cupcake-like Opéra Garnier (p172).

Neo-Classical: inspired by ancient Greece and Rome, this style is epitomized by the Panthéon (p252). Art Nouveau: incorporating curves and natural motifs, Art Nouveau details are still visible in the Metro station entrances.

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Avenue de la Grande Armée, designed by Baron Haussmann

Street Level Medieval half-timbered houses and Renaissance palaces still dot the Marais, where history survived the ravages of conflict and city planning. See examples on Rue François Miron, or head over to the palatial Place des Vosges (p92), lined with pretty pink brick façades, for a taste of French Renaissance architecture under Henri IV. The courtyards of these mansions once welcomed the regal carriages of Parisian nobility.

Hôtel de Soubise, one of the numerous historic mansions in the Marais

BARON HAUSSMANN Lawyer by training and civil servant by profession, GeorgesEugène Haussmann worked under Emperor Napoleon III to redesign Paris. Working with the best architects and engineers of the day, he tore down old buildings and cut new boulevards across the city. His controversial plans angered many, but the result was, arguably, quite striking. During his time, modern sewers, green leafy parks and strict building regulations gave us the Paris that we adore today.

Below Ground Underground, Paris is a world unto itself. Discover the 18th-century Catacombes (p285), a dark and twisted tangle of limestone quarries that house the bones of millions of Parisians, transferred from overflowing cemeteries. The 19th-century sewers (p209) are also open for visits, showcasing the potent and often ratinfested network to daring tourists.

The macabre Catacombes de Paris, decorated with millions of bones

55

Walk the Canal Towards La Villette

DISCOVER Paris Your Way

Head to the Canal St-Martin (p118) to experience a local vibe. Few tour groups make it to the green bridges arching over the water, flanked by cute boutiques and coffee shops. Walk north along the canal to La Villette, a district worth the trek. The modern park (p142), with its concert hall and science museum, draws Parisian families.

Canal St-Martin, a popular spot with locals for strolling and picnicking

PARIS

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

It’s easy to escape the crowds without going too far. Hidden courtyards and museums in the centre lure those who want something different, while the outer districts hold charming cafés, monumental churches and oddball galleries. Discover where the Parisians live and see the local side of the city.

Explore Multicultural Belleville A bustling Vietnamese and Chinese district, Belleville is an enclave for Parisian artists and a new generation of hipsters. Take a rewarding excursion through the hilly Parc de Belleville (p132) for sweeping panoramas of the city, then be enticed by the smell of pho (Vietnamese soup) wafting along Rue de Belleville (p132). Street art and quaint cafés decorate the district, which is especially lively during the market on Tuesday and Friday.

56

Shoppers browsing a neighbourhood flea market in Belleville

Shop with Parisians at the Marché d’Aligre Live like a Parisian for a day at the Marché d’Aligre (p106), one of Paris’s most vibrant food markets. Barter for strawberries and have some mid-morning wine and oysters while filling your canvas bags with treats. The covered market, the Beauvau-St-Antoine, is the best place to head for succulent sausages or tangy goat’s cheese, while outside are fresh flowers, mountains of lettuce and stalls full of seasonal produce that will provide endless meal inspiration. The outdoor market also features stalls selling bric-a-brac and second-hand books.

Food stalls at the Marché d’Aligre, packed with an array of quality fresh produce

INSIDER TIP

Quiet Spots in the Louvre Even the Louvre, the world’s most-visited museum, has plenty of spots for quiet contemplation. Head where tourist groups rarely go, upstairs to the Northern European painters or to the wings housing Islamic art and Near Eastern antiquities.

Make an Excursion to Paris’s Green Lungs Rowing lazily across one of the lakes in the Bois de Vincennes (p294) or the Bois de Boulogne (p292), you’ll wonder why all the tourists are still queuing for a boat ride along the Seine. These two large parks – lush green spaces situated on the outskirts of Paris – are often overlooked by visitors to the city. Stunning châteaus, exotic botanical gardens, a zoo, a mini amusement park and even the Fondation Louis Vuitton contemporary art gallery (p292) await those who make the trip across the Périphérique into these natural havens.

The Bois de Boulogne, home to the Fondation Louis Vuitton (inset)

57

DISCOVER A Year in Paris

A YEAR IN

PARIS

Indoors or out, Paris delights all year round. The arrival of picnic weather in spring gives way to open-air music and cinema events in summer, major cultural festivals in autumn and a host of celebrations to brighten crisp winter days and nights.

Spring Buds and green shoots appear as Paris emerges from winter, a fitting backdrop to the chic chocolate creations displayed in patisseries for Easter. As the mercury rises, Parisians take to parks and the riverside. Come May Day, the heady scent of muguet (lily of the valley) fills the air, as friends and families exchange bouquets of flowers. 1. A florist selling spring blooms in central Paris

Summer In June, the plentiful free events of the Fête de la Musique, a major music festival, give Paris a palpable beat. The capital retains its buzz through Paris Plage, when the Seine’s riverbanks and the Bassin de la Villette are transformed into a beachy landscape and alfresco film events and live music

1 58

2

LA FETE NATIONALE France’s national day, le 14 juillet, commem­ orates the storming of the Bastille prison on 14 July 1789, a pivotal moment in the French Revolution. There are military parades and fireworks. A concert is held at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and fire stations host balls.

gigs of all genres animate the languorous evenings. The ultimate summer party is La Fête Nationale (Bastille Day) on 14 July, when fireworks burst over the Eiffel Tower. 2. The seaside-like atmosphere during Paris Plage

Autumn La rentrée at the beginning of September signals a return to school, work and the cultural calendar. Clement days invite nature walks and boat rides. The Nuit Blanche festival draws out the shortening days with all-night art exhibitions, while the Festival d’Automne stages a diverse programme of performing arts throughout the city. In October Montmartre parties to fireworks and music during the grape harvest. 3. Rowing on Lac Daumesnil in the Bois de Vincennes

Winter Paris’s reputation as the city of lights comes into full force in the illuminated weeks before Christmas, when festive shopwindow displays, the wooden huts of Christmas markets and open-air ice rinks pop up around the city. And just as the holiday feast draws to an end, Parisians flock to boulangeries for flaky galette des rois, a sweet pastry with an almond filling, a delicious Epiphany treat. 4. Christmas Village at the Trocadéro and (inset) festive gingerbread

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4

SPORTS EVENTS

Paris Marathon ∑ schneiderelectric marathonparis.com Runners start at the Champs-Elyées and end at Avenue Foch. French Tennis Open ∑ rolandgarros.com The legendary claycourt tournament is part of the prestigious Grand Slam. La Parisienne ∑ la-parisienne.net This women-only running race is in aid of breast cancer research. Tour de France ∑ letour.fr The world’s greatest and most gruelling cycle race ends in Paris after 23 days, crossing the finishing line at the Champs-Elysée.

4 59

DISCOVER A Brief History

A BRIEF

1

HISTORY

For over 2,000 years, Paris has survived endless invasions, wars and plagues that have tested the spirits of its citizens. The seat of power for world leaders such as Louis XIV and Napoleon, and the backdrop for events including revolution and Nazi invasion, Paris has endured – and with style. From Roman Outpost to Capital City The first permanent settlers, the Parisii, landed here around 2,500 years ago – though artifacts show that others were here before them. In 52 BC, Rome conquered the Parisii, creating an outpost called Lutetia. By the fall of the Roman Empire in the 3rd century AD, Paris was on the rise. Clovis I, King of the Franks, made the city his kingdom’s capital in 508 and, despite outbreaks of plague and English occupation hammering at the city’s morale over the following centuries, art and culture flourished. Notre-Dame rose from Île de la Cité and the University of Paris became a centre for European education.

1 A medieval map of Paris 2 The Sorbonne, seat of the University of Paris, in 1550 3 The Hundred Years’ War between France and England 4 Revolutionaries storming the Bastille

Timeline of events 508

987

1240

Clovis I, King of the Franks, establishes Paris as the capital of his kingdom, which becomes France

Hugh Capet, forbearer of all future kings of France, rules the Kingdom of Franks

Church bells are regulated by clocks for the first time, facilitating the regulation of work hours in Paris

1429 Joan of Arc fails to retake Paris from English control and is burned at the stake one year later

60

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A Cultural Centre By the 1500s,the Italian Renaissance had arrived in Paris by way of the Medici family of Florence, and the city began to shine. Despite severe religious wars, exacerbated by the Protestant faith of King Henri IV, culture thrived with new foods, fashions and even ballet. The Louvre became a royal palace and the nobility constructed mansions in the Marais. The French monarchs made Paris a world capital, epitomized by Louis XIV’s opulent château and gardens at Versailles. Revolution In the 1700s the Enlightenment blossomed in Paris while the monarchy shrivelled. Famine and excessive spending at Versailles, as well as near-constant war, led to a call to arms. The French Revolution put a turbulent end to divine right as citizens stormed the Bastille prison on 14 July 1789. In 1793, Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette both met their ends at Place de la Concorde, subjected to the guillotine. Parisians shook their city – and country – to the core, and a new government strove to regain order in a country divided by various ideologies.

1528 François I returns the monarchy to Paris after a century-long hiatus

1546 Work starts on the new Louvre palace and the first stone quay is built along the Seine

FIRSTS IN PARIS 1348 Bubonic Plague first arrives 1660 Coffee first arrives from the East 1728 First street signs are erected 1827 First giraffe arrives in Paris, a gift from the ruler of Egypt 1907 First woman gets a taxi licence in Paris 1986 First Paris Marathon takes place 2014 Anne Hidalgo, first female mayor, is elected

1572

1671

St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre ends with some 2,000 Protestants dead in Paris, following the wedding of future King Henri IV and Marguerite de Valois

Louis XIV moves the entire royal court to Versailles

1789 French Revolution dethrones Louis XVI and MarieAntoinette from Versailles

61

DISCOVER A Brief History

2

1

The Napoleonic Era The rise to power of military leader Napoleon Bonaparte saw France’s influence spread throughout its newly created Empire. The Bourbon kings briefly returned to power after Napoleon’s downfall, before giving way to Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte, known as Napoleon III, who pursued France’s Second Empire in his great-uncle’s tradition. During the latter half of the 1800s, he charged administrator Baron Haussmann with modernizing Paris, creating the sweeping boulevards that define the city. By 1860, towns such as Montmartre and Belleville had been incorporated into Paris, establishing the present-day city limits. The Belle Époque The end of the brief and bloody Paris Commune of 1871, in which the citizens of Paris rose up against the French government, marked the emergence of the new Third Republic, which flourished during the belle époque (beautiful age) of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Eiffel Tower soared over Paris in 1889 and in 1900 the Metro opened. Paris truly was a glittering city at the cutting edge of art and technology.

Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte, Emperor Napoleon III

Timeline continued 1804

1941

Napoleon crowns himself Emperor of France

The first Jewish Parisians are arrested by occupying forces

1853 Baron Haussmann’s renovations of Paris begin

62

1871 The Bloody Week sees up to 10,000 French citizens killed at the hands of the army during the Paris Commune uprising

1944 Paris is liberated from Nazi occupation

3

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Occupation and Recovery In 1940, during World War II, the republic fell to Nazi Germany. Parisians survived the Occupation – albeit emerging beaten and subdued – and the city slowly recuperated. In 1968, student protests threatened to upturn the government, but the unrest quickly subsided. A series of ambitious architectural projects began at this time, and by the turn of the millennium, Paris was a world-class city with modernization firmly in its sights. The Vélib’ bike service changed the way Parisians travel, and cars were banned from the riverbanks, creating new green spaces. Paris Today A model city, Paris embraces innovation while retaining its traditional elements. The city was shaken in 2015 by the Charlie Hebdo and Bataclan terrorist attacks, but it refuses to be cowed. Its revolutionary spirit continues to thrive, through the gilets jaunes protests that began in 2018 and the Black Lives Matter demonstrations of 2020. With an increasingly engaged citizenry and a future-facing mayor now in her second term, Paris affirms its status as a global, outward-looking city.

1 The Champ-de-Mars and Eiffel Tower during the Exposition Universelle of 1900 2 Students marching during the protests of 1968 3 The Vélib’ bike scheme, launched in 2007 4 A streetside memorial following the Charlie Hebdo attacks

1992

1961–62

EuroDisney (now Disneyland® Paris) officially opens

Often-deadly protests are held by Algerians in Paris over the French-Algerian War

1977 1968

Student riots and worker strikes take place in the Latin Quarter

Jacques Chirac is installed as the first elected mayor of Paris since 1871

2019 Notre-Dame suffers a terrible fire, destroying its roof and spire

63

A Notre-Dame chimera surveying the city

EXPERIENCE

Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis .......................................66 The Marais..................................................84 Bastille and Oberkampf..............................................100 République and Canal St-Martin ...................................... 114 Belleville and Ménilmontant ......................................... 126 La Villette .................................................138 Montmartre and Pigalle ................................................ 152 Opéra and Grands Boulevards .............................168 Louvre and Les Halles ................................................ 180 Eiffel Tower and Invalides ...........................................196 Champs-Élysées and Chaillot ..............................................212 St-Germaindes-Prés ...................................................234 Latin Quarter .........................................248 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie ................................. 262 Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg...................... 278 Beyond the Centre ........................... 290

The stunning stained-glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle

ÎLE DE LA CITÉ AND ÎLE ST-LOUIS The history of Paris started on the Île de la Cité, an island formed by two meanders of the Seine. Inhabited by the Parisii Gauls from the 3rd century BC and taken over in 52 BC by Caesar’s Romans, the Île de la Cité was the birthplace of river commerce, and in medieval times it became a centre of political and religious power. Some imposing evidence of this power can still be seen in the Conciergerie, a medieval palace-turnedprison, and in Notre-Dame, the island’s worldfamous Gothic cathedral. The huddles of tiny houses and narrow streets that once characterized the island were swept away by the spacious thoroughfares built in the 19th century, but there are still charming snippets of another time around the romantic Square du Vert-Galant and the venerable Place Dauphine. At the island’s eastern end, the Pont St-Louis connects it to the smaller Île St-Louis. This former swampy pastureland was transformed into an elegant 17th-century residential area, with picturesque tree-lined quays. More recently, it has been home to rich artists, actresses and heiresses. 67

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NOTRE-DAME EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

 K8 ⌂ Parvis Notre-Dame 75004 – Pl Jean-Paul II q Cité @ 21, 38, 47, 58, 70, 72, 81, 82 x Notre-Dame ¢ Until further notice ∑ notredamedeparis.fr

No other building is more associated with the history of Paris than Notre-Dame (Our Lady). The “heart” of the country, both geographically and spiritually, the cathedral rises majestically at the eastern end of the Île de la Cité. A Gothic masterpiece, it was severely damaged by fire in 2019 – including the loss of its spire – and is currently closed to visitors while reconstruction is carried out. Notre-Dame was built on the site of a Roman temple. After Pope Alexander III laid the first stone in 1163, an army of architects and craftsmen toiled for 170 years to realize Bishop Maurice de Sully’s magnificent design. At the time it was finished, in about 1334, it was 130 m (430 ft) long and featured flying buttresses, a large transept, a deep choir and 69-m- (228-ft-) high towers. Within the cathedral’s hallowed walls, kings and emperors were crowned and royal Crusaders were blessed. But Notre-Dame was also the scene of turmoil. Revolutionaries ransacked it, banished religion, changed it into a temple to the Cult of Reason, and then used it as a wine store. Napoleon restored religion in 1804 and architect Viollet-le-Duc later restored the building to its former glory. Tragedy struck again in 2019, however, when a devastating fire engulfed the roof of the cathedral. Following a flood of high-profile donations, French President Emmanuel Macron vowed to rebuild Notre-Dame in time for the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Jean Ravy’s spectacular flying buttresses, with a span of 15 m (50 ft), at the east end of the cathedral

Timeline

After Pope Alexander III laid the foundation stone in 1163, an army of architects and craftsmen toiled for 170 years to realize Bishop Maurice de Sully’s magnificent design.

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The cathedral’s legendary gargoyles (chimères), hiding behind a large upper gallery between the towers

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Foundation stone laid by Pope Alexander III

Choir remodelled by Louis XIV, fulfilling his father’s promise to honour the Virgin

Revolutionaries loot the cathedral and rename it the Temple of Reason

▲ The cathedral’s roof and spire are destroyed by a catastrophic fire

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Must See

The West Front, featuring superb statuary, a central rose window and an openwork gallery

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EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

Rebuilding Notre-Dame Restoration work inside the cathedral means that visitors can’t currently enter. The church, however, still plays a part in daily life, and its main bell rang to mark the death of former president Jacques Chirac in 2019. While architects focus on stabilizing the structure and cleaning up the mess, city planners are looking forward to working on the roof and spire. The government has set an ambitious goal to have the cathedral restored to its former glory – including a faithful reconstruction of the original spire – by 2024.

The spire was completely destroyed during the fire in 2019.

Galerie des Chimères

South tower

Portal of the Virgin

West rose window

Transept

The King’s Gallery Cross-section illustration of how Notre-Dame looked before the fire

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Must See

387 steps up the north tower lead to the famous gargoyles.

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Flying buttresses

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South rose window

3 1 A 14th-century screen enclosed the chancel, offering canons at prayer peace from noisy congregations. 2 Behind the high altar is Nicolas Coustou’s Pietà, standing on a gilded base.

Treasury

3 Only the north window retains its 13thcentury stained glass.

A MEDIEVAL ROMANCE The 12th-century romance between the monk Pierre Abélard and the young Héloïse began in the cloisters of Notre-Dame. Abélard was hired as a tutor to the 17-yearold niece of a canon, and a love affair soon developed between the teacher and his pupil. In his wrath, Héloïse’s uncle had the scholar castrated and Héloïse took refuge in a convent.

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2"'=

EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

SAINTE-CHAPELLE  J7 ⌂ Blvd du Palais 75001 q Cité @ 21, 27, 38, 85, 96 to Île de la Cité W St-Michel x Notre-Dame # Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9am– 5pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ sainte-chapelle.fr

Ethereal and magical, Sainte-Chapelle has been hailed as one of the greatest architectural masterpieces of the Western world. In the Middle Ages, the devout likened this church to “a gateway to heaven”. Today, no visitor can fail to be transported by the blaze of light created by the 15 magnificent stained-glass windows. A Gothic Masterpiece The chapel was built in 1248 by Louis IX to house Christ’s purported Crown of Thorns. A Gothic masterpiece, its stunning stained-glass windows – the oldest extant in Paris – are separated by narrow columns that soar 15 m (50 ft) to the star-studded, vaulted roof. The windows portray over 1,000 biblical scenes, from Genesis right through to the Crucifixion, in a kaleidoscope of red, gold, green, blue and mauve. Servants and commoners worshipped in the Lower Chapel, while the Upper Chapel was reserved for the use of the king and the royal family.

Spire

Crown of Thorns decoration

Rose window

The rose window, telling the story of the Apocalypse

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Main portal

Lower Chapel

Must See

Did You Know? The spire is 75m (245 ft) high. It was erected in 1853 after four previous spires burned down.

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Upper Chapel

2 1 The Lower Chapel is not as light and lofty as the Upper Chapel, but is still magnificent. 2 The windows of the Upper Chapel contain 600 sq m (6,458 sq ft) of stained glass.

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3 Carved stone statues of the Apostles adorn the 12 pillars of the Upper Chapel.

ST LOUIS’ RELICS

Cross-section illustration of Sainte-Chapelle

Louis IX was extremely devout, and was canonized in 1297, not long after his death. In 1239, he acquired the Crown of Thorns from the Emperor of Constantinople and, in 1241, a fragment of Christ’s Cross. He built this chapel as a shrine to house them. Louis paid nearly three times more for the relics than for the construction of Sainte-Chapelle. The Crown of Thorns was kept in Notre-Dame and survived the fire.

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

3 Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation  K8 ⌂ Sq de l’Île de France 75004 § 01 46 33 87 56 q Cité, St-Paul, Maubert Mutualité, Pont Marie W St-Michel # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Apr–Sep) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 15 Aug, 1 Nov & 25 Dec

The memorial to the 200,000 French men, women and children deported to Nazi con­ centration camps in World War II is covered with the names of the camps to which they were deported. Earth from these camps has been used to form tombs and the interior walls are decorated with poetry and thousands of glass crystals. At the far end is the tomb dedicated to the Unknown Deportee.

4"'= Conciergerie  J7 ⌂ 2 Blvd du Palais 75001 q Cité # 9:30am– 6pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ paris-conciergerie.fr

The Conciergerie, part of the larger Palais de Justice (p78), was under the administration of the palace “concierge”, the keeper of the king’s mansion. When the monarch moved to the Marais (in 1417), the palace remained the seat of royal administration and law; the Conciergerie became a prison, with the “concierge” as its chief gaoler. Henry IV’s assassin, Ravaillac, was imprisoned and tortured here. During the French Revolu­ tion, the Conciergerie housed more than 4,000 prisoners, including Marie­Antoinette, who was held in a tiny cell,

The old Conciergerie prison, with its medieval turreted towers, overlooking the River Seine

76

INSIDER TIP

Ticket Savings If you plan on visiting both the Conciergerie and Sainte-Chapelle on the same day, you can save money by buying a combined ticket.

and Charlotte Corday, who stabbed Revolutionary leader Marat as he lay in his bath. Ironically, the Revolutionary judges Robespierre and Danton also became “tenants” before being sent in turn to the guillotine. The Conciergerie has a superb, four­aisled Gothic Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Men­at­Arms), the dining hall for the castle’s 2,000 members of staff. The building, renovated in the

The Marché aux Fleurs, with its wonderful variety of seasonal and exotic flowers and plants

During the French Revolution, the Conciergerie housed more than 4,000 prisoners, including Marie-Antoinette, who was held in a tiny cell.

EAT Berthillon

19th century, retains the 14th-century clock on the Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower). It is the city’s oldest public clock and is still operating.

5"= Crypte Archéologique  K8 ⌂ 7 Parvis NotreDame – Pl Jean-Paul II 75004 q Cité, St-Michel # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 8 May, 25 Dec & religious hols ∑ crypte.paris.fr

Situated on the main square (the parvis) in front of Notre-Dame and stretching 120 m (393 ft) underground, the Crypte Archéologique exhibits the remains of foundations and walls that predate the cathedral by several hundred years. The foundations of Paris’s oldest rampart, dating from the 3rd century BC, are displayed, as are the medieval foundations of the Hôtel Dieu. Interactive touchscreens help to bring the exhibits to life. Within the crypt are also traces of a hypocaust, a sophisticated

underground heating system used for heating ancient Roman thermal baths.

6 Hôtel Dieu  K7 ⌂ 1 Parvis NotreDame – Pl Jean-Paul II 75004 § 01 42 34 82 34 q Cité

On the north side of the Parvis Notre-Dame is the Hôtel Dieu, the city’s oldest hospital, dating back to the 12th century. The original building stretched across the island to both banks of the river, but was demolished to make way for one of Baron Haussmann’s urban-planning schemes. It was rehoused on the site of an old orphanage in 1878. Plans are underway to modernize and repurpose part of the historic building, while retaining current hospital services. It was nearby, at the Préfecture de la Police (p80), in 1944, that the Paris police courageously resisted the German army; the battle is commemorated by a monument on Cour du 19-Août, within the Préfecture.

Parisians flock to this ice-cream parlour for its unusual flavours.  L8 ⌂ 29–31 Rue St-Louis-en-l'Île 75004 ¢ Mon, Tue ∑ berthillon.fr ¡¡¡

7 Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II  K7 ⌂ Pl Louis-Lépine 75004 q Cité # 8am– 7:30pm Mon–Sat

The year-round flower market adds colour and scent to an area otherwise dominated by administrative buildings. It is the most famous and, unfortunately, one of the last remaining flower markets in the city of Paris, its attractive iron pavilions harbouring both seasonal flowers and a wide range of specialist varieties such as orchids. Each Sunday, it makes way for the Marché aux Oiseaux, an animal and bird market, which is probably best avoided by sensitive animal lovers. 77

EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

8 Palais de Justice

10 Pont Neuf

11 Square du Vert-Galant

 J7 ⌂ 4–10 Blvd du Palais 75001 (main entrance by the Cour de Mai, 10 Blvd du Palais) q Cité # 9am– 6pm Mon–Fri ∑ coursappel.justice.fr

 J7 ⌂ Quai de la Mégisserie and Quai des Grands Augustins 75001 q Pont Neuf, Cité

 J7 ⌂ Île de la Cité 75001 q Pont Neuf, Cité

The monumental block of buildings stretching the entire width of the Île de la Cité was formerly the home of the central law courts, most of which have now moved into brand-new premises in the Clichy-Batignolles quarter in the 17th arrondissement. The site, occupied since Roman times, was the seat of royal power until Charles V moved the court to the Hôtel St-Paul in the Marais during the 14th century. In April 1793, the Revolutionary Tribunal began dispensing justice from the Première Chambre, but this court eventually degenerated during Robespierre’s Reign of Terror. Plans are afoot to open up more of the site to the public.

9 Place Dauphine  J7 ⌂ 75001 (enter by Rue Henri-Robert) q Pont Neuf, Cité

Southeast of Pont Neuf is this ancient square, laid out in 1607 by Henri IV and named after the Dauphin, the future Louis XIII. It is actually triangular in shape and lined with cafés, wine bars and restaurants. In the middle is a park with trees and benches. No 14 is one of the few buildings to have avoided any subsequent restoration. This haven of 17th-century charm is popular with pétanque (boules) players.

The tranquil Square du Vert-Galant, at the extreme point of the Île de la Cité

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Despite its name (New Bridge), this is the oldest of the existing bridges in Paris and has been immortalized by major literary and artistic figures since it was built. The first stone was laid by Henri III in 1578, but it was Henri IV who inaugurated it and gave it its name in 1607. His statue stands in the central section. The bridge, which was the widest of its kind in Paris, has 12 arches and spans 275 m (912 ft). The first stone bridge in the city to be built without houses and with pavements for pedestrians, it heralded a new era in the relationship between the Île de la Cité and the river. From its very beginning, the Pont Neuf has had heavy traffic, and it has undergone many renovations and repairs over the centuries.

One of the most magical spots in Paris, this peaceful, tree-lined garden bears the nickname of Henri IV, “vertgalant”. This colourful monarch did much to beautify Paris in the early 17th century, and his popularity has lasted right up to this day. From here, there are splendid views of the Louvre and the Right Bank of the river, where Henri was assassinated in 1610. This is also the point from which the Vedettes du Pont Neuf pleasure boats depart.

Did You Know? Henri IV’s nickname, vert-galant, means “old flirt”. The king was infamous for his womanizing.

The ornate interior of the Baroque church of St-Louis-en-l’Île

12 St-Louis-en-l’Île  L8 ⌂ 19 Rue St-Louisen-l’Île 75004 § 01 46 34 11 60 q Pont Marie # 10am–1pm & 2–7:30pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–1pm & 2–7:30pm Sat, 9am–1pm & 2–7pm Sun

The construction of this church began in 1664 from plans by the royal architect Louis Le Vau, who lived on the island. It was completed and consecrated in 1726. Among

its outstanding exterior features are the 1741 iron clock at the entrance and the pierced iron spire. The interior, in the Baroque style, is richly decorated with gilding and marble. There is a statue of St Louis holding a Crusader’s sword. A plaque in the north aisle bears the inscription “in grateful memory of St Louis in whose honour the City of St Louis, Missouri, USA is named”. The church is also twinned with Carthage cathedral in Tunisia, where St Louis is buried.

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Saint-Louis en l’Isle Elegantly decorated and offering comfort without going over the top.

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Hôtel du Jeu de Paume

The exposed wooden beams in this 17thcentury building, along with the great location, make it a huge draw.  L8 ⌂ 54 Rue St-Louisen-l’Île 75004 ∑ jeudepaume hotel.com ¡¡¡

79

A SHORT WALK

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest Metro Cité Time 15 minutes The colourful, lively Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II is one of Paris’s few remaining flower markets. Birds are sold at the Sunday market (p77).

A grisly antechamber to the guillotine, the Conciergerie prison was much used in the Revolution (p76).

PO DC NT HA AU NG E

The origins of Paris are here on the Île de la Cité, the boat-shaped island on the Seine first inhabited over 2,000 years ago by Celtic tribes. There is no older place in Paris, and remains of the first buildings are housed in the archaeological crypt under the square in front of Notre-Dame. A stroll in this part of the city takes you from one Parisian icon – the great medieval cathedral – to another: the Gothic masterpiece that is Sainte-Chapelle.

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The Cour du Mai is the impressive main courtyard of the Palais de Justice.

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The Quai des Orfèvres owes its name to the goldsmiths (orfèvres) who frequented the area from medieval times onwards. With its ancient towers lining the quays, the Palais de Justice has a history that extends back over 16 centuries (p78).

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EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

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Deep under the square, in the Crypte Archéologique, lie the remains of houses from 2,000 years ago (p77).

A riverside view of the Conciergerie, a former prison

ÎLE DE LA CITÉ AND ÎlE ST-LOUIS

Locator Map For more detail see p68

Patrons sitting outside one of the delightful cafés on the quaint Rue Chanoinesse

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In ancient times the island was used as a river crossing between northern and southern Gaul.

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Notre-Dame cathedral suffered a devastating fire in 2019 that destroyed its spire (p70).

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The Statue of Charlemagne commemorates the King of the Franks, who was crowned emperor in 800. He united all the Christian peoples of the West.

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Opposite the Pont St-Louis, on the corner of Rue Jean du Bellay, is Le Flore en l’Île, the smartest café-cum-tea salon on the island.

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The former Polish library, founded in 1838, now houses the Société Historique et Littéraire Polonaise, focusing on the life of Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz.

Looking along the Seine from the bank of the Île St-Louis

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Hôtel Chernizot is one of the few 18th-century hôtels particuliers on the island, with a superb Rococo balcony resting on leering gargoyles.

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The tiny Île St-Louis has been an exclusive residential enclave since the 17th century and is a lovely place for a stroll. This route passes along the picturesque tree-lined quais from Pont Louis-Philippe to Quai d’Anjou, before penetrating into the heart of the island along the Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île. The quiet streets here are a haven of chic cafés, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques, and are lined with elegant hôtels particuliers that infuse the area with a powerful sense of period.

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EXPERIENCE Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis

Distance 2 km (1 mile) Walking time 40 minutes Nearest metro Pont Marie

Pont de la Pont d Tournelle Tourne

Île StLoius

Locator Map For more detail see p68

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Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île abounds in small, chic, bistro-style restaurants with pleasantly old-fashioned interiors; at No 31 is the original Berthillon ice cream parlour (p77).

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The most famous house on the island is the Hôtel Lambert, at the eastern end of Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île.

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The Hôtel Richelieu at No 18 Quai de Béthune is one of the island’s most beautiful houses. It features a fine garden that has retained its original Classical blind arcades.

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Pont de Sully

At the corner of Rue Poulletier and Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, is the church of St-Louis-en-l’Île (p79), with its unusual tower, projecting clock, and carved main door.

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Square Barye, a shady public garden at the east point of the island, has fine views of the river.

The Nobel-laureate Marie Curie lived at No 36 Quai de Béthune.

The riverbanks are joined by the late-19th-century Pont de Sully.

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The beautifully manicured Place des Vosges

THE MARAIS This district was little more than a muddy swamp until Henri IV built the Place Royale (now Place des Vosges) in 1605. But its position of prestige as a royal residence was soon swept away by the Revolution, which saw the Marais all but abandoned, before later descending into an architectural wasteland. Towards the end of the 19th century, a large number of Jewish settlers from Eastern Europe moved to the neighbourhood, establishing the Jewish Quarter around Rue des Rosiers. Beginning in the 1960s, sensitive restoration brought the Marais’ historic buildings to life again; some of Paris’s most popular museums are now housed in its elegant mansions, while the main streets and narrow passageways bustle with trendy restaurants, bars and chic boutiques. A hot spot for eclectic art galleries, the Marais is also the heart of the Parisian LGBT+ community. 85

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MUSÉE PICASSO PARIS  M6 ⌂ Hôtel Salé, 5 Rue de Thorigny 75003 q St-Sébastien Froissart, St-Paul, Chemin Vert, Rambuteau @ 29, 69, 75, 96 to St-Paul, Bastille, Pl des Vosges # 10:30am–6pm Tue– Fri; 9:30am–6pm Sat & Sun, advance booking recommended ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ museepicassoparis.fr

The Musée Picasso Paris holds the world’s largest Picasso collection. Comprising over 5,000 works and tens of thousands of archived pieces, it offers an unparalleled insight into the artist’s creative process.

A visitor contemplating Picasso’s Femmes à leur Toilette (1938)

88

Head of a Woman (1931)

Must See Spanish-born Pablo Picasso lived most of his life in France. Upon his death in 1973, the French state inherited many of his works in lieu of death duties. It used them to establish the Musée Picasso Paris, which opened in 1985. The museum is housed in a large 17th-century mansion, the Hôtel Salé, which was built in 1656 for Aubert de Fontenay, a salt-tax collector (salé means “salty”). The original character of the mansion has been preserved, and large sculptures adorn the garden and courtyard. Reopened in 2014 following a five-year renovation, the museum holds works spanning a full range of media – paintings, sculptures, ceramics, drawings and etchings – covering all of Picasso’s creative periods. Be sure not to miss Picasso’s own collection of paintings on the second floor.

The Hôtel Salé, considered to be one of the most exquisite historic houses in the Marais

PICASSO IN FRANCE Born in Malaga, Spain, Picasso first visited Paris in 1900. He moved to the city in 1904, before later settling in the south of France. After 1934, Picasso never returned to his homeland due to his rejection of Franco’s regime. However, throughout his life in France he used Spanish themes in his art, such as the bull (often in the form of a minotaur) and the guitar, which he associated with his Andalusian childhood.

The Kiss (1969), one of many works concerned with the theme of the couple painted by Picasso during his later years

89

EXPERIENCE The Marais

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POMPIDOU CENTRE  K6 ⌂ Pl Georges Pompidou q Rambuteau, Châtelet, Hôtel de Ville @ 29, 38, 47, 75 # MNAM & temp exhibitions: 11am–9pm Wed–Mon (to 11pm Thu); library: noon–10pm Wed–Mon (from 11am Sat, Sun & pub hols); Atelier Brancusi: 2–6pm Wed–Mon ¢ 1 May ∑ centrepompidou.fr

Home to the Musée National d’Art Moderne, with over 60,000 works of art by more than 5,000 artists, the Pompidou holds Europe’s largest collec­ tion of modern and contemporary art. Looking like a building turned inside out, its exterior is as eye­catching as the works on display within.

Blue: air conditioning

Did You Know? The Pompidou Centre's collection was originally housed in the Palais de Tokyo (p229).

Must See With the Black Arc (1912) by Vassily Kandinsky

Museum Guide The “historical” collections bring together Le Rhinocéros (1999) the great artistic movements of the first half by Xavier Veilhan of the 20th century, from Fauvism to Abstract Expressionism. A rich collection of Cubist sculptures is displayed, as well as examples of the great masters of the 20th century. Matisse, Morellet and Bertrand Lavier. The display Picasso, Braque, Duchamp, Kandinsky, Léger, is organized around a central aisle from Miró, Giacometti and Dubuffet command which the rooms lead off. Certain areas have been designated to bring together different large areas at the heart of the collection, disciplines around a theme, which also shows the groups such as minimalist painting and the movements on which the history of modern art is or conceptual art, rather based, or by which it has been than a school or movement, affected, including Dada, while other rooms are Abstract Art and Informal. artist-specific. Design and The contemporary art architecture are also covered, section occupies the fourth and there is a “global” room floor. The collection starts bringing together major with works by leading French pieces by African, Chinese, artists of the second half of Japanese and American the 20th century: Louise artists. A graphic arts exhiBourgeois, Pierre Soulages, bition room and a video The escalator Jean-Pierre Raynaud, François area complete the collection. overlooking the piazza

Red: elevators and escalators

Green: water

BRANCUSI’S STUDIO Yellow: electricity

The distinctive exterior of the Pompidou, with service pipes that are colour-coded according to their various functions

The Atelier Brancusi, on the piazza, is a reconstruction of the workshop of the Romanian-born artist Constantin Brancusi (1876– 1957), who lived and worked in Paris from 1904. He bequeathed his entire collection of works to the French state on condition that his workshop be rebuilt as it was on the day he died.

91

EXPERIENCE The Marais

EXPERIENCE MORE 3 Musée Cognacq-Jay

4 Place des Vosges

 M7 ⌂ Hôtel Donon, 8 Rue Elzevir 75003 q St-Paul, Chemin Vert # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter Mon, 1 May, 1 Jun, 25 Dec ∑ museecognacqjay.paris.fr

 M7 ⌂ 75003, 75004 q Bastille, St-Paul

This small, fine collection of 18th-century French works of art and furniture was formed by Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay, founder of the Art Deco La Samaritaine, on the Quai du Louvre, which was once Paris’s largest department store. The collection was bequeathed to the city and is now housed here in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant building dating from 1575 with an 18th-century façade and wood-panelled rooms.

This square is considered among the most beautiful in the world by Parisians and visitors alike. Its impressive symmetry – 36 houses, nine on each side, of brick and stone, with deep slate roofs and dormer windows over arcades – is still intact after 400 years. It has been the scene of many historic events over the centuries. A threeday tournament was held here to celebrate the marriage of Louis XIII to Anne of Austria in 1615. Cardinal Richelieu, pillar of the monarchy, stayed here in 1615; the famous literary hostess Madame de

INSIDER TIP

Marais Mansions Many of the former mansion houses in the Marais are open to the public; just walk through any doors that you see open.

Sévigné was born here in 1626; and the writer Victor Hugo lived here for 16 years. The arcades surrounding the square are full of art galleries and upmarket fashion boutiques and often ring out with the sound of buskers playing classical music or jazz, while at the centre of the place is a lovely formal garden with fountains and sandpits, popular with young families.

EAT L’Ambassade d’Auvergne

Regional cooking with lots of cabbage and pork dishes. Shared tables are good for solo diners.  K6 ⌂ 22 Rue du Grenier-St-Lazare 75003 ∑ ambassadeauvergne.fr ¡¡¡

L’As du Fallafel

The best falafel sandwiches in Paris, if the queues at this bustling local favourite are any indication.  L7 ⌂ 34 Rue des Rosiers 75004 § 01 48 87 63 60 ¡¡¡

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A room decorated in Chinese style, in the Maison de Victor Hugo

5 Maison de Victor Hugo

6\-= Rue des Rosiers

7= Pavillon de l’Arsenal

 M7 ⌂ 6 Pl des Vosges 75004 q Bastille, Chemin Vert, St-Paul ∑ maisons victorhugo.paris.fr

 L7 ⌂ 75004 q St-Paul, Chemin Vert

 M8 ⌂ 21 Blvd Morland 75004 q Sully Morland, Bastille # 11am–7pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan ∑ pavillon-arsenal.com

The French poet, dramatist and novelist lived on the second floor of the former Hôtel Rohan-Guéménée from 1832 to 1848. It was here that Victor Hugo wrote most of Les Misérables and completed many other famous works. The museum inside displays reconstructions of the rooms in which the writer lived, his vivid pen-and-ink drawings and caricatures, and books and mementos from the crucially important periods in his life, from his childhood to his exile from France between 1852 and 1870. It also holds temporary ticketed exhibitions on Hugo.

The Jewish quarter in and around this street is one of the most colourful areas of Paris. The street’s name refers to the rose bushes within the old city wall. A Jewish community first settled here in the 13th century, with a second wave of immigration occurring in the 19th century from Russia, Poland and Central Europe. Sephardic Jews arrived from North Africa in the 1950s and 1960s. Some 165 students were deported from the Jewish boys’ school nearby at 10 Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais in World War II. “N’oubliez pas” (Lest we forget) is engraved on the wall. Today, this area contains synagogues, bakeries and kosher restaurants.

The Pavillon de l’Arsenal houses a small but fascinating exhibition illustrating the architectural evolution of Paris. Using films, models and panoramic images, this permanent exhibition explores how Paris was built over the centuries, as well as looking at future plans for the city. The centrepiece of the exhibition is a large groundlevel interactive screen showing Google Earth images of Paris and onto which are superimposed all the city’s building projects planned for the next few years. Up to three temporary exhibitions are also programmed each year.

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EXPERIENCE The Marais

Paris’s imposing town hall (Hôtel de Ville), with its elaborate façade

8 St-Paul–St-Louis  M7 ⌂ 99 Rue StAntoine 75004 § 01 42 72 30 32 q St-Paul # 8am–8pm daily

A Jesuit church, St-Paul– St-Louis is an important symbol of the influence that the Jesuits held from 1627, when Louis XIII laid the first stone, to 1762, when they were expelled from France. The Gesù church in Rome served as the model for the nave, while the 60-m(180-ft-) high dome was the forerunner of those of the Invalides (p206) and the Sorbonne (p255). Most of the church’s treasures were removed during periods of turmoil, but Delacroix’s masterpiece Christ in the Garden of Olives can still be seen. The church sometimes hosts concerts. It is on one of the main streets of the Marais, but can also be approached by the Passage St-Paul. 94

9"' Maison Européenne de la Photographie  L7 ⌂ 5–7 Rue de Fourcy 75004 q St-Paul, Pont Marie # 11am–8pm Wed– Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ mep-fr.org

Located in the 18th-century Hôtel Hénault de Cantobre, a former private home, the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP) hosts some of the best exhibitions

of contemporary photography in the whole of Europe. The centre organizes cutting-edge shows alongside retrospectives on major photographers, and since opening its doors in 1996, it has hosted displays by such celebrated photographers as Elliott Erwitt, Don McCullin, Annie Leibovitz, Robert Doisneau and Henri CartierBresson. The MEP’s extensive permanent collection on the history of photography is a must-see for anyone interested in exploring this medium.

THE MANSIONS OF THE MARAIS In the 1500s, noble men and women began building sumptuous residences in the newly drained marshlands called the Marais. Many of these mansions have now been restored as museums, such as the Musée Carnavalet (p97) and Musée Cognacq-Jay (p92).

DOOR DETAIL

SHOP Meert

This elegant branch of the 18th-century Lillois patisserie is known for its fine vanilla-cream gaufres (waffles).  M7 ⌂ 16 Rue Elzévir 75003 ∑ meert.fr

Edwart Chocolatier

Gourmet chocolates with unusual flavours such as curry praline and Japanese whiskey are the star products at this sleek boutique.  L7 ⌂ 17 Rue Vieille du Temple 75004 ∑ edwart.fr

Village St-Paul

10 ' = Mémorial de la Shoah

11 = Hôtel de Ville

 L7 ⌂ 17 Rue Geoffroyl’Asnier 75004 q Pont Marie, St-Paul # 10am– 6pm Sun–Fri (to 10pm Thu); multimedia & reading rooms: 10am–5:30pm Sun– Fri (to 7:30pm Thu) ¢ Public & Jewish hols ∑ memorialdelashoah.org

 K7 ⌂ Pl de l’Hôtel de Ville 75004 (visitor entrance 29 Rue de Rivoli, exhibitions entrance 5 Rue de Lobau) q Hôtel de Ville # Hours vary for temporary exhibitions ¢ Public hols, official functions  ∑ paris.fr

The eternal flame burning in the crypt here is the memorial to the unknown Jewish martyr of the Holocaust. Its striking feature is a large cylinder that bears the names of the concentration camps where Jewish victims of the Holocaust died. In 2005, a stone wall engraved with the names of 76,000 Jews – 11,000 of them children – who were deported from France to the Nazi death camps, was put up here. Various drawings, letters and artifacts from the camps are also on display, as well as photos of deportees. Every other Sunday at 3pm, guided tours take place in English.

Home of the city council, the town hall is a 19th-century reconstruction of the original building erected between 1533 and 1628, which was burned down during the Paris Commune of 1871 (p62). It is highly ornate, with elaborate stonework, turrets and statues overlooking a pedestrianized square whose fountains are lit up at night. The square was once the main site for hangings, burnings and other gruesome executions. It was here that Ravaillac, Henri IV’s assassin, was quartered alive in 1610, his body ripped to pieces by four strong horses.

These interlocking courtyards house all sorts of antique, interior-design, art and curiosity shops, as well as occasional flea markets.  M8 ⌂ Off Rue St-Paul 75004 ∑ levillagesaint paul.com

Inside, a notable feature is the long Salle des Fêtes (ballroom), with adjoining salons devoted to science, literature and the arts. The impressive staircase, the decorated ceilings with their chandeliers, and the statues and caryatids all add to the air of ceremony and pomp. While these parts are mostly closed to the public (except during some of the Journées du Patrimoine in September), certain annexes are used for free, acclaimed temporary exhibitions on various themes related to Paris. 95

EXPERIENCE The Marais

Artworks on display in the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme

12 " ' \ La Cuisine Paris  L7 ⌂ 80 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville 75004 q St-Paul ∑ lacuisineparis.com

With Paris having so many restaurants and bakeries, few visitors stop to think about learning to make their own French-inspired dishes. La Cuisine offers a variety of cooking classes run by real French cooks, who teach you how to make classic savoury dishes as well as sweet pastries in a slick kitchen boasting views over the Seine. English-speaking instructors demonstrate the techniques behind buttery croissants and crusty baguettes, and demystify many of France’s most iconic dishes, such as fluffy soufflés and perfectly prepared crêpes. Some of the classes offered even combine a market visit with a cooking class where you prepare a

whole lunch. After rolling up their sleeves for a few hours, La Cuisine students walk away with either a full belly or a package of flaky, buttery, or otherwise decadent pastries. The school also offers culinary walking tours of the Marais and nearby neighbourhoods for visitors wanting to discover local shops and flavours. Classes and tours are open to all ages and levels of experience.

13 Enceinte de Philippe Auguste  L7 ⌂ 13 Rue Charlemagne 75004 q St-Paul, Sully Morland

Dating back to 1190, these fortifications are the remains of Paris’s oldest wall. King Philippe Auguste built the wall around Paris to protect the city from attacks while he was away fighting in the Crusades.

RIVERBANK WALK After the success of the Left Bank renovation, Berges de Seine, Paris City Hall decided to tackle the Right Bank. In 2017, the two banks were joined as the Parc Rives de Seine, which passes through the Marais and offers a pleasant waterfront stroll. Citizens embraced the change, already acquainted with the car-free zone during the annual Paris Plages beach festival. Now, the festive atmosphere lasts all year long, with bars and cafés lining the promenade.

96

A hallmark of the wall was a fortress where the Louvre now stands; its remnants are visible today in the museum’s lower levels. The section here in the Marais, however, hides in plain sight. It is still possible to see the large tower, the Tour Montgomery, that formed part of the gates through which everyone had to pass in order to enter the city. The wall was an effective means of regulating trade, allowing the king to levy taxes on imports such as wine and furs, as well as many other goods.

14 " = Hôtel de Guénégaud (Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature)  L6 ⌂ 62 Rue des Archives 75003 q Hôtel de Ville ∑ chassenature.org

The celebrated architect François Mansart built this superb mansion in the mid17th century for Henri de Guénégaud des Brosses, who was Secretary of State and Keeper of the Seals. Since 1967, it has housed the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Nature and Hunting Museum), which underwent extensive renovation in 2020. A reflection

on man’s relationship with animals and wild spaces, the museum’s exhibits include a fine collection of hunting weapons, stuffed animals and objets d’art. There are also drawings and paintings by Oudry, Vernet and Rubens (including Diane and her Nymphs Preparing to Hunt).

15 " = Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme

Dutch Jewry from medieval times to the present. There has been a sizeable Jewish community in France since Roman times, and some of the world’s greatest Jewish scholars were French. Much exquisite craftsmanship is displayed, with elaborate silverware and Torah covers. There are also archaeological artifacts, historical documents, photographs, paintings and cartoons.

 L6 ⌂ Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 Rue du Temple 75003 q Rambuteau # 11am– 6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, Rosh Hashanah & Yom Kippur ∑ mahj.org

16 Musée Carnavalet

Housed in an elegant Marais mansion, this is one of the world’s leading museums on Judaism and the largest in France. It commemorates the culture of French, Sephardic (Spain, Portugal, North Africa), Ashkenazi (Germany and Eastern Europe), Italian and

A four-year renovation of this museum dedicated to the history of Paris has introduced a range of childfriendly displays and digital innovations, rejuvenating a fascinating collection. It is situated inside two adjoining mansions. The Hôtel

 M7 ⌂ 16 Rue des FrancsBourgeois 75003 q St-Paul, Chemin Vert ∑ carnavalet.paris.fr

Carnavalet, which was built as a town house in 1548, was transformed in the mid-17th century by architect François Mansart, while the neighbouring 17th-century Hôtel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau features superb early-20th-century interiors. In both, entire rooms are lavishly decorated with gilded wood panelling, furniture and objets d’art, including paintings and sculptures of prominent personalities, and engravings showing Paris being built. One of the most engaging parts of the museum is a section covering the French Revolution.

STAY Hôtel Jules et Jim

Well-located and modern, it’s popular with LGBT+ travellers.  L6 ⌂ 11 Rue des Gravilliers 75003 ∑ hoteljulesetjim.com ¡¡¡

After rolling up their sleeves for a few hours, La Cuisine students walk away with either a full belly or a package of flaky, buttery, or otherwise decadent pastries.

Hôtel de la Bretonnerie

With old-world décor and wooden beams, this is a comfortable and welcoming place.  L7 ⌂ 22 Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie 75004 ∑ hotelparismarais bretonnerie.com ¡¡¡

Le Pavillon de la Reine

This sumptuous hotel is an experience fit for the royals who would have lived on this square.  M7 ⌂ 28 Place des Vosges 75003 ∑ pavillon-de-lareine.com

The handsome Renaissance Musée Carnavalet

¡¡¡

97

A SHORT WALK

The Hôtel Salé is the setting for the Musée Picasso Paris. It boasts the largest collection of Picassos in the world, many of which came from Picasso’s own collection after his death (p88).

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest Metro St-Paul Time 20 minutes

Once an area of marshland as its name suggests (marais means swamp), the Marais grew steadily in importance from the 14th century, by virtue of its proximity to the Louvre, the preferred residence of Charles V. Its heyday was in the 17th century, when it became the fashionable area for the monied classes. They built many grand mansions (hôtels particuliers) that still dot the Marais today – some of these hôtels particuliers have been restored and turned into museums. Once again fashionable with the monied classes, the neighbourhood is home to designer boutiques, trendy restaurants, art galleries and cafés.

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Discover the exquisite collection of 18th-century paintings and furniture at the Musée Cognacq-Jay (p92).

Behind the ornate doorway of the fine Hôtel de Lamoignon is Paris’s historical library.

Walking along the shopping street of Rue des Francs-Bourgeois

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The interior courtyard of the Musée Carnavalet, housed in two adjoining mansions

Did You Know?

The Hôtel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau adjoins the Hôtel Carnavalet to form the Musée Carnavalet (p97). DU

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It took Victor Hugo nearly two decades to write Les Misérables.

The statue of Louis XIV in Roman dress by Coysevox is in the courtyard of the Hôtel Carnavalet, home to the Musée Carnavalet.

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The Colonne de Juillet in Place de la Bastille

BASTILLE AND OBERKAMPF East of the Marais, Bastille and Oberkampf were once Parisian faubourgs, or suburbs, well outside the main city wall in the Middle Ages. Furnituremakers inhabited the area around Bastille, capitalizing on wood delivered at the nearby docks, while Oberkampf was a working-class neighbourhood filled with artisans, including leather-makers. Where the Opéra National de Paris Bastille stands today, Parisians once gaped at the mighty Bastille – an imposing medieval prison fortress and symbol of royal repression, which famously met its demise in 1789 during the French Revolution. Throughout the 19th century, this largely working-class neighbourhood grew into one of Paris’s most densely populated districts. In 1840, the Colonne de Juillet rose in Place de la Bastille, joined some 150 years later by the modern Opéra. Many of the artisans disappeared during this time, but an energetic nightlife grew up in their wake, fuelled by the culturally diverse and generally younger populations living here. 101

Musée des Musée des Arts et Arts et Métiers Métiers

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PLACE DE LA BASTILLE  N8 ⌂ Place de la Bastille 75004 q Bastille @ 20, 29, 65, 69, 76, 86, 87, 91

This busy square was the scene of one of the most important events in French history – the storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789. Little trace of the infamous prison remains, and today the square is a hub for nightlife and cultural events such as concerts.

The Marché Bastille on nearby Boulevard Richard Lenoir

At the centre of the large square that marks the site of the prison is the Colonne de Juillet. Topped by the elegant, gilded statue of the winged “genius of liberty”, this column of hollow bronze reaches 50.5 m (166 ft) into the sky. It is a memorial to those who died in the street battles of July 1830 that led to the overthrow of the monarch. The crypt contains the remains of 504 victims of the violent fighting and others who died in the 1848 revolution. Place de la Bastille was once the border between central Paris and the eastern working-class areas (faubourgs). Gentrification, however, is well under way. Just east of the Opéra Bastille is the starting point of the Coulée Verte René-Dumont (p106), an elevated walking trail built on a disused railway line, while the creation of a vast pedestrian plaza around the column, connected to the Bassin de l’Arsenal marina (p108), transformed the square in 2020.

The Opéra National de Paris Bastille (p106), designed by Carlos Ott

THE FRENCH REVOLUTION In 1789, most Parisians were living in squalor and poverty. Rising inflation and opposition to Louis XVI culminated in the storming of the Bastille, the king’s prison; the Republic was founded three years later. However, the Terror soon followed, when those suspected of betraying the Revolution were executed without trial: more than 60,000 people lost their lives.

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Must See

INSIDER TIP

Chocolate Treat Chocaholics should head to Alain Ducasse’s La Manufacture de Chocolat on Rue de la Roquette. It sells a decadent array of ganaches, pralines and truffles in an assort­ ment of flavours.

The Colonne de Juillet, commemorating the 1830 revolution that saw the fall of King Charles X

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Bastille and Oberkampf

2"' Opéra National de Paris Bastille  N8 ⌂ 120 Rue de Lyon 75012 q Bastille ∑ operadeparis.fr

The controversial “people’s opera” was officially opened on 14 July 1989 to coincide with the bicentennial celebrations of the storming of the Bastille. Carlos Ott’s imposing building is a notable break with 19th-century opera-house design, epitomized by Charles Garnier’s opulent Opéra in the heart of the city (p172). The Bastille opera house is a massive, modern, curved, glass building. The main auditorium seats an audience of 2,700; its design is functional and modern, the black upholstered seats contrasting with the granite of the walls and the impressive glass ceiling. With its five moveable stages, this opera house is certainly a masterpiece of technological wizardry and it’s well worth seeing a performance here; the website has full details of what’s on and also has information about guided tours (in French).

The original railway closed in 1969 but the city preserved the structure and opened the Coulée Verte René-Dumont (also known as the Promenade Plantée) in 1993, serving as a model for urban renewal that has been replicated around the world. The topography varies from planted gardens and larger parks to narrow walkways snaking between apartment buildings. A stroll or jog along the Coulée Verte René-Dumont is a delightful traffic-free experience, with epic views of the city. Underneath the red-brick railway arches by the opera house, the Viaduc des Arts houses artisan and craft shops and fashion boutiques. All along the promenade, staircases lead down to street level, where cafés and bakeries are rarely far away for a quick pick-me-up while exploring Paris’s eastern extremities in bucolic bliss.

 P9 ⌂ Ave Daumesnil 75012 q Bastille # 8am– dusk Mon–Fri, 9am–dusk Sat & Sun

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Remnants of the moat of the Bastille prison can be seen in the Bastille Metro.

4 Marché d’Aligre  P8 ⌂ Place d’Aligre 75012 q Ledru-Rollin # 7:30am–1:30pm Tue–Fri, 7:30am–2:30pm Sat & Sun (indoor market 9am–1pm & 4–7:30pm Tue–Fri, 9am– 1pm & 3:30–7:30pm Sat, 9am–1:30pm Sun)

On Sunday mornings, this lively and good-value market offers one of the most colourful sights in Paris. French, Arab and African traders hawk fruit, vegetables, flowers, clothing,

A stroll or jog along the Coulée Verte René-Dumont is a delightful traffic-free experience, with epic views of the city.

3 Coulée Verte René-Dumont

This former elevated railway hosts Paris’s most exclusive verdant walkway. Rising up to 10 m (33 ft) above the streets, the promenade, planted with many varieties of flowers and trees, stretches for about 5 km (3 miles) between the Opéra Bastille and the Périphérique city boundary to the east.

Did You Know?

The tree-lined Coulée Verte René-Dumont, an elevated walkway

Busy Rue de la Roquette with its lively cafés and restaurants

bric-a-brac and second-hand books on the streets, while the adjoining covered market, the Beauvau St-Antoine, offers fruit, vegetables, a great selection of cheese, charcuterie and olive oils, plus many intriguing international delicacies. The Marché d’Aligre is where old and new Paris meet. Here, the established community of this old artisan quarter coexists with a more recently established group of hip urban professionals, lured here by the transformation of the nearby Bastille area. Some parts of the indoor market have been renovated following a fire in 2015.

5\-= Rue de la Roquette  N7 q Bastille, Voltaire

This bustling street, lined with bars, cafés and restaurants, stretches from the Opéra Bastille towards Père Lachaise Cemetery (p130). At No 17 stands the house of Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine, a 19th-century regular in the neighbourhood. At No 70, a 19th-century fountain once brought water from the canal into the densely populated district. The five stone slabs in the road where the street meets Rue de la Croix Faubin are an eerie reminder of a much darker history. They are the foundations of the guillotine where inmates of the Prison de la Roquette met their fate, usually in front of a crowd of onlookers. Around 200 executions were carried out between 1851 and 1899, while some 4,000 women, members of the French Resistance, were incarcerated in the prison in 1944. The former entrance can still be seen across the street, on Square de la Roquette. Rue de la Roquette and the surrounding area, particularly cobbled Rue de Lappe, with its numerous bars, gets pretty animated at night.

EAT Bofinger

This classic 19th-century brasserie serves up Alsatian fare in a glitzy setting.  M7 ⌂ 5 Rue de la Bastille 75004 ∑ bofingerparis.com ¡¡¡

Café de l’Industrie

Simple food and a funky setting make this a neighbourhood favourite.  N7 ⌂ 16 Rue StSabin 75011 ∑ cafedelindustrie paris.fr ¡¡¡

Septime

Innovative cuisine and a relaxed atmosphere combine for perfect Michelin-star dining.  P8 ⌂ 80 Rue de Charonne 75011 ¢ Sat & Sun ∑ septimecharonne.fr ¡¡¡

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Memorabilia, paintings and artifacts in the small Edith Piaf Museum

EXPERIENCE Bastille and Oberkampf

6= Edith Piaf Museum  P5 ⌂ 5 Rue Crespin du Gast 75011 § 01 43 55 52 72 q Ménilmontant # By appt 1–6pm Mon–Wed ¢ Jun & Sep

Legend has it that singer Edith Piaf was born in the street in nearby Belleville (p132). Historians debate that story, but she did actually live in this tiny apartment, now a museum dedicated to the singer’s legacy. It is privately owned by a fan who has curated a collection of memorabilia and personal artifacts that belonged to the chanteuse. Just 1.42 m (4 ft 8 inches) tall and known as the “Little Sparrow”, she possessed a voice that was anything but small, echoing across concert halls world­ wide. Buried in nearby Père Lachaise Cemetery (p130), Piaf is today best known for songs such as “La Vie en Rose”. An engaging collection of souvenirs, prints and Piaf’s signature black dresses are on display. Entry to the museum is by appointment only. A charming, intimate experi­ ence, it should appeal to both die­hard fans and visitors with just a casual interest.

7\Bassin de l’Arsenal  M9 ⌂ 5 Quai de la Rapée q Bastille

Between Place de la Bastille and the Seine, this pleasure­ boat arena hides below street

level. A lock joins it to the River Seine. The location of a weapons storehouse since the 16th century, the arsenal eventually fell into disuse as revolutionaries removed the Bastille fortress, stone by stone. Nowadays, the tiny marina hosts private watercraft and is also the starting point for tour cruises along the Canal St­Martin (p118). Find a spot to relax on the lawn of the pretty canalside garden where, on warm evenings, Parisians picnic along the traffic­free waterfront. Two bridges crossing the water offer picture­postcard views of the Colonne de Juillet in Place de la Bastille.

8\Gare de Lyon  N9 ⌂ Place LouisArmand 75012 q Gare de Lyon ∑ Le Train Bleu: le-train-bleu.com

Built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, this station is

With high-end restaurants, gourmet coffee shops, craft beer and spicy Mexican fare, Rue Oberkampf caters to all sorts of flavours and fancies. 108

DRINK Moonshiner

This 1920s-inspired speakeasy hides behind a pizzeria. It can be crowded, but serves great cocktails.  N7 ⌂ 5 Rue Sedaine 75011 § 09 50 73 12 99

La Fine Mousse

It’s all about craft beer here, with up-andcoming local brews on tap. They also offer tasting workshops.  P5 ⌂ 6 Ave Jean Aicard 75011 ∑ lafinemousse.fr

Le Perchoir

Clink glasses and feast on light fare from this rooftop bar with a 360-degree view of the city.  P5 ⌂ 14 Rue Crespin du Gast 75011 ∑ leperchoir.fr

INSIDER TIP

Chambelland Chambelland, at 14 Rue Ternaux, just off Rue Oberkampf, is one of the few glutenfree bakeries in Paris, serving delicious bread, biscuits and pastries.

the third busiest in France, with about 90 million annual passengers. It welcomes trains from throughout France, as well as Italy, Switzerland and other international destinations. In the summer months you’ll notice many sun-kissed travellers returning from the Côte d’Azur, as this station serves Nice and other southern French destinations. On the exterior of the station looms the iconic clock tower, reminiscent of the UK Parliament’s Big Ben tower. Inside the Gare de Lyon is the illustrious restaurant Le Train Bleu, a glitzy dining

experience that has been in operation for over a century. The ornate dining rooms are decorated with gilded carvings, mouldings and chandeliers, as well as 41 paintings representing French cities or regions by prominent French artists including François Flameng and Henri Gervex. Even if you’re not catching a train to some sun-soaked destination, it’s worth a visit to the station to sip a glass of wine amid the restaurant’s sumptuous décor.

9\-= Rue Oberkampf  M6 q Oberkampf, Parmentier

Rue Oberkampf stretches from the Upper Marais all the way to Ménilmontant, with most of the action happening around Metros Parmentier and Oberkampf.

Dating back to the 1500s, the street gained its name in the 19th century from the German-born industrialist Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, who contributed to the manufacturing of painted French cloth (toile). Today, the area is anything but old-fashioned. With high-end restaurants, gourmet coffee shops, craft beer and spicy Mexican fare, Rue Oberkampf caters to all sorts of flavours and fancies in its many bars and eateries. The street becomes especially lively at night, with younger Parisians congregating at watering holes like Café Charbon or Le Quartier Général. There are few tourist attractions here. It’s all about local colour – literally, too, if you keep an eye out for the vibrant street art covering the walls and even the chimney stacks. Spend an evening or afternoon hopping from venue to venue in search of the perfect fit.

The opulent interior of Le Train Bleu restaurant, inside the Gare de Lyon

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10 Cour Damoye and Passage du Cheval Blanc

EXPERIENCE Bastille and Oberkampf

 N7 q Bastille, Voltaire, Bréguet Sabin

Amid the bustle of Place de la Bastille, there are tiny enclaves of calm hidden in two historic passages, the Cour Damoye and the Passage du Cheval Blanc. Most people walk right by their entrances without daring to enter, but they are public walkways. This area has been a centre of carpentry and French furniture design since the time of the Middle Ages. Its location near a port on the Seine that dealt with wood and timber made it popular with craftsmen, and many high-end artisans producing fine furnishings can still be found in the district. The late-18th-century Cour Damoye is today largely The bold architecture of Bercy, a former wine-trading district

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FURNITURE-MAKING DISTRICT Close to the former docks at Quai de la Rapée, this district east of the Place de la Bastille served to stock lumber, leading to its renown as a centre for furniture- and cabinet-making and their related trades. The craftsmen even caught the eye of Louis XIV, and his Minister of Finances, Colbert, established the royal mirror factory here. Today, there are still antique sellers, cabinetmakers and craftsmen dotted around Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, especially on Le Passage du Chantier.

residential, with a few small businesses still functioning, but remnants of its former artisan workshops are visible in the façades. The Passage du Cheval Blanc, just off Rue de la Roquette, is named after the sign of a horse that once adorned the entrance. Offering a peaceful respite from the busy Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, its small labyrinth of cobbled courtyards, named after the months of the year (Cour de Janvier etc), hide architecture companies and apartments, with wooden beams still visible in some buildings. The Cité Parchappe spills you back out onto the main road.

11 \ - = Merci  M6 ⌂ 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais 75003 q St-Sébastien Froissart # 11am–7pm Mon–Sat ¢ Sun ∑ merci-merci.com

Paris has grand department stores and luxury boutiques aplenty, but around Bastille, Merci is the place for retail therapy. A concept store housed in an old wallpaper factory, it opened in 2009 and curates the best in fashion and design. Homewares, clothing and kitchen products are housed under a glass atrium, spread across multiple floors. It has none of the glitz

Did You Know? Paris’s 11th arrondissement is one of the most densely populated districts in Europe.

or brand names of big-brother department stores like Printemps or Le Bon Marché. Instead, it reflects the neighbourhood’s character, featuring independent designers and local brands. If you’re not interested in swiping your cards on trendy accessories, you could join the locals at Merci’s popular restaurant and two cafés. The Used Book Café, set among towering shelves of literature, is especially appealing for afternoon tea or coffee. Fresh salads, egg dishes and tartines are all on the menu. The shop also houses temporary exhibitions and pop-up events that manage to keep it feeling fresh and exciting for locals and visitors alike.

12 Bercy  P11 ⌂ 75012 q Bercy, Cour St-Émilion

This former wine-trading quarter east of the city centre, with its once-grim warehouses, pavilions and slum housing, is now a modern district. An automatic Metro line (Line 14) links it to the heart of the city. The centrepiece is the pyramidal landmark AccorHotels Arena, which hosts sports events, operas and rock concerts. Other architecturally adventurous buildings dominate Bercy, notably Chemetov’s gigantic building for the Ministry of Finance, and Frank Gehry’s American Center. This houses the Cinémathèque Française, a wonderful cinema museum that hosts frequent retrospectives of famous directors. At the foot of these structures, the imaginatively designed 70-ha (173-acre) Parc de Bercy provides a welcome green space for this part of the city.

Former wine stores and cellars along Cours St-Émilion have been restored as bars, restaurants and shops, and one of the warehouses now contains the Musée des Arts Forains (Fairground Museum), open for private tours only.

STAY Hôtel Original

Right next to Place de la Bastille. Each room has its own quirky style.  N7 ⌂ 8 Blvd Beaumarchais 75011 ∑ hoteloriginal paris.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel Les Jardins du Marais

A luxury-feeling hotel with a stunning private courtyard.  M6 ⌂ 74 Rue Amelot 75011 ∑ lesjardinsdu marais.com ¡¡¡

The contemporary landscape design of the attractive Parc de Bercy

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A LONG WALK

The walk begins at busy Place de la Bastille (p104), site of the infamous prison that was stormed during the Revolution in 1789.

Distance 4.5 km (3 miles) Walking time 90 minutes Nearest metro Bastille

Pause to admire the modern architecture of the Opéra National de Paris Bastille (p106) before ending the walk at Bastille Metro. PLACE DE PLACE DE LA BASTILLELA FINISH BASTILLE

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The Bassin de l’Arsenal (p108) was inaugurated in 1983 to provide a harbour for pleasure cra­. Today, it’s a pretty spot full of yachts, dinghies and Parisians out for a stroll.

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EXPERIENCE Bastille and Oberkampf

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Locator Map For more detail see p102

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Canal St-Martin, the centrepiece of this trendy neighbourhood

RÉPUBLIQUE AND CANAL ST-MARTIN Lying beyond central Paris, this area was once farmland. The Knights Templar established their European headquarters here during the medieval period, at which time it was also home to a community of lepers. In the 17th century, King Henri IV built a hospital for plague victims, while the 18th century saw a new wall envelop these districts within the city limits. Following industrialization of the area in the 19th century, thanks to Napoleon’s canal, the neighbourhood became largely working class. It suffered from dereliction in the 20th century, although strong African communities grew up here, especially around Chateau d’Eau. In the 1990s, a class of bohemian-bourgeois Parisians – known as bobos – began to gentrify the district. Place de la République, totally redesigned in 2013, now welcomes street fairs and public demonstrations. Even Gare du Nord, hub for the London-bound Eurostar, has cleaned up in recent years. 115

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1

CANAL ST-MARTIN EXPERIENCE République and Canal St-Martin

 M4 q Jacques Bonsergent, Goncourt, République @ 26, 46, 75

Dating back to the time of Napoleon, this 4.5-km (2¾-mile) waterway flows through one of Paris’s trendiest districts. Colourful shops and cafés line its banks, where locals spend weekends picnicking or cycling along the waterfront. Stretching between the Seine in the south and the Bassin de la Villette in the north, the Canal St-Martin opened in 1825 as a means of bringing fresh water to Paris’s polluted city centre. However, in the late 19th century part of the canal was covered to make way for new roadways, and within a few decades the canal and the boats that worked upon it had become obsolete. City officials almost drained and filled the entire waterway in the 1970s, but by the turn of the millennium it had became a popular location for wealthy young Parisians to buy and renovate properties. This once-derelict district is now one of the Right Bank’s most desirable areas, a culturally mixed neighbourhood where Paris’s hipsters mingle among families and international arrivals.

DRINK Here are the best coffee shops around the canal. Ten Belles

 M4 ⌂ 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles 75010 ∑ tenbelles.com

Holybelly

 L4 ⌂ 5 & 19 Rue Lucien Sampaix 75010 ∑ holybellycafe.com

Caoua Coffee Stop  M4 ⌂ 98 Quai de Jemmapes 75010 § 09 50 73 47 17

Radiodays

 M4 ⌂ 15 Rue Alibert 75010 ∑ radiodays.cafe

DonAntónia

 M4 ⌂ 8 Rue de la Grange aux Belles 75010 ∑ donantonia.paris

118

INSIDER TIP

Canalside Eats Order a snack or a meal to take away from one of the many casual eateries nearby — choices range from Taiwanese to Mexican — then find a spot along the canal.

Must See

1

2 1 Cafés and restaurants populate the neighbourhood around the canal. 2 A selection of treats is sold at the bakery Du Pain et des Idées on Rue Yves Toudic.

3

3 The Canal St-Martin is punctuated by romantic bridges, including two swing ones.

Did You Know? 2km (1 mile) of the canal passes through an underground tunnel.

Strolling along the canal reveals Paris at its most picturesque

119

EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE République and Canal St-Martin

2 Square du Temple  L5 ⌂ 75003 q Temple, République

A quiet and pleasant square today, this was once a fortified centre of the medieval Knights Templar. A state within a state, the area contained a palace, a church and shops behind high walls and a drawbridge, making it a haven for those who were seeking to escape from royal jurisdiction. Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were held in the Temple fortress after their arrest in 1792. The king set out from here for his execution by guillotine.

Did You Know? The Square du Temple contains 70 species of trees, including an 18-m- (59-ft-) tall Turkish hazel.

3"-= Musée des Arts et Métiers  L5 ⌂ 60 Rue Réaumur 75003 q Arts et Métiers # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec ∑ arts-et-metiers.net

Housed within the old Abbey of St-Martin-des-Champs, the Arts and Crafts Museum was founded in 1794. After major renovations in the 1990s it reopened in 2000 as an excellent museum of science and industry displaying 5,000 items (it has 75,000 additional artifacts in storage that are available to academics and researchers). The museum’s theme is man’s ingenuity and the worlds of invention and manufacturing, covering such topics as textiles, photography and machines. Among the most

entertaining displays are those of musical clocks, mechanical musical instruments and automata (mechanical figures). One of these figures, the “Joueuse de Tympanon”, is said to represent Marie-Antoinette.

4" Musée des Moulages  M4 ⌂ 1 Ave Claude Vellefaux 75010 § 01 42 49 99 15 q Goncourt, Colonel Fabien # By appt 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri

Housed inside the Hôpital St-Louis, this museum boasts 4,807 wax moulds of horrific skin diseases of the 1800s. Dr Lallier of the Hôpital St-Louis hired Jules Baretta, a wax-fruit maker, to create models of real diseases to teach students about things

The pretty Square du Temple garden with its bandstand and pond

120

A plane on display at the Museé des Arts et Métiers, housed in a former church

SHOP Marché des Enfants Rouges

This market, founded in 1628, on Rue de Bretagne is full of food stalls and international cuisine, and is usually packed at lunchtime.  M6 ⌂ 39 Rue de Bretagne 75003 ¢ Mon

such as syphilis and elephantiasis. Baretta would spend time with patients in the hospital, carefully using plaster of Paris to create his moulds. He would then paint them in great detail, even adding hair to keep them realistic. While many of the faces and body parts are unsettling in their realism, they are true works of art. Cyclopoid babies, various stages of then-fatal syphilis, and all sorts of abnormal skin growths are as fascinating as they are gruesome. The collection is an enlightening look into how far medicine has come in the past 150 years, to a time before the discovery of antibiotics that could cure

many of these diseases. Today, few students visit the antiquated learning tools, so the museum is often empty. Call ahead to arrange an appointment, and purchase tickets within the modern hospital’s register adjacent to the original structure.

5 Hôpital St-Louis  M4 ⌂ 1 Ave Claude Vellefaux 75010 q Goncourt, Colonel Fabien

Built by order of King Henri IV in 1607 and completed after his death, this hospital originally served the growing number of plague victims at the time. Patients crowded into the rooms surrounding the square courtyard, reminiscent of Place des Vosges in the Marais (p92), and constructed by the same architect. Most would never see the sky again except for a rare stroll through that grassy courtyard. Conditions in the hospital worsened over time, but eventually

the plague passed. The building later served as a dermatology hospital and a prison for nuns during the French Revolution. Today, modern facilities next to the 17th-century buildings still function as a hospital. A small adjacent chapel – built for local farmers and not for plague victims – was used for King Henri IV’s funeral in 1610. The main courtyard is open to the public and is an almost hauntingly calm respite in the heart of Paris. One of its wings is home to the Musée des Moulages, a museum dedicated to skin diseases.

A statue at the Musée des Arts et Metiers

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The Gare de l’Est, lit up at night

6\-= Rue Ste-Marthe

EXPERIENCE République and Canal St-Martin

 N4 ⌂ 75010 q Goncourt, Belleville

Just north of the Hôpital St-Louis, this little street feels more like a walk through some southern provincial French town than central Paris. Colourful doors and façades contrast with the often grey Parisian skies. Each one opens up to an artist’s studio, a workshop, a quirky restaurant, or some oddball boutique. There is little historical significance in these former workers’ quarters, but the area is a unique slice of Parisian life. Look for olives in the independent grocery, try some Chilean food, or spend an evening with a glass of wine and charcuterie at any of

the local bars here. Tourists rarely make it this far, stopping instead at the Canal St-Martin. A walk along Rue Sainte-Marthe, however, is a very Parisian experience.

7\-= Gare de l’Est  L3 ⌂ Place du 11 Novembre 1918 75010 q Gare de l’Est

Whether travelling to Germany or just passing through the neighbourhood, visitors should take a moment to marvel at one of Paris’s oldest train stations. Opened in 1849, it had doubled in size by 1931 after several renovations. Statues atop the façade represent Strasbourg and Verdun, two of the

Statues adorning the imposing façade of the Gare du Nord station

HIDDEN GEM

Marché StQuentin The 19th-century covered market Marché St-Quentin on Boulevard de Magenta makes a handy stop for last-minute cheese and wine before you board a train from the Gare de l’Est or Gare du Nord.

original destinations served by the station. In 1883, the very first Orient Express departed from Gare de l’Est for Istanbul. Inside the main hall, a massive painting by American artist Albert Herter depicts French troops leaving the station for the Front during World War I in 1914. German forces transformed an underground air-raid shelter into a wartime bunker during World War II, which is still preserved under the station, though it is not open to visitors.

8\-= Gare du Nord  L2 ⌂ 18 Rue de Dunkerque 75010 q Gare du Nord

Opened in 1864, this train station is best known today as the hub for the Eurostar to London, as well as services to Brussels and Amsterdam. This massive station is Europe’s busiest, with over 200 million passengers per year. The imposing façade is dotted with sculptures representing other European capitals, including Berlin and London. The soaring iron structure inside creates a romantic departure hall, and has been used as a film location for several movies. Inside the station, a new wave of cafés and restaurants is reinventing the travelling experience, as well as the surrounding neighbourhood. The station is undergoing further refurbishments in preparation for the 2024 Olympic Games.

9 Portes St-Denis et St-Martin  K4, L4 ⌂ Blvds St-Denis & St-Martin 75010 q Strasbourg-St-Denis

These imposing gates give access to the two ancient and important thoroughfares whose names they bear, running across Paris in a north–south direction. They once marked the entrance to the city. The Porte St-Denis is 23 m (76 ft) high and was built in 1672 by François Blondel. It is decorated with figures by Louis XIV’s sculptor, François Girardon. The gates commemorate the victories of the king’s armies in Flanders and the Rhine that year. Porte St-Martin is 17 m (56 ft) tall and was built in 1674 by Pierre Bullet, a student of Blondel. It celebrates the capture of Besançon and the defeat of the Triple Alliance of Spain, Holland and Germany. The impressive interior of Gare de l’Est

EAT & DRINK Le Plomb du Cantal

A local establishment serving well-prepared, no-frills, traditional French food.  L4 ⌂ 4 Bvld St-Denis 75010 ∑ leplombducantal.fr ¡¡¡

SAam

Korean street food pairs with rice wine, sake and daily juices at this hip, fun eatery.  M4 ⌂ 59 bis Rue de Lancry 75010 § 09 83 50 84 94 ¡¡¡

Le Comptoir Général

This quirky venue hosts events and has a bar popular during the evenings and on Sunday afternoons.  M4 ⌂ 80 Quai de Jemmapes 75010 ∑ lecomptoir general.com

La Barav

This popular wine bar fills up with locals sharing bottles and cheese plates.  M5 ⌂ 6 Rue CharlesFrançois Dupuis 75003 ∑ lebarav.fr

Le Mary Celeste

Go for cocktails, stay for the small plates, and then have more cocktails.  M6 ⌂ 1 Rue Commines 75003 # lemaryceleste.com

125

One of the many street art murals in Belleville

BELLEVILLE AND MÉNILMONTANT Belleville and Ménilmontant are two of the newest districts to have been incorporated into the city. Various religious orders called the area home in the Middle Ages, and the land was cultivated by monks. Belleville was famous as a wine-growing suburb of Paris, with vineyards covering the hilly district. Both districts were beyond the tax reaches of the city, and in the 18th century Ménilmontant became popular with the working classes, who would drink cheaply at watering holes called guinguettes. After city planners removed the wall circling Paris in 1860, the two areas were absorbed into the 20 arrondissements, and much of the farmland and vineyards gave way to new homes. The districts became militant hotbeds during the 1871 Paris Commune, when clashes with the army erupted in the streets. Throughout the 20th century, the area attracted immigrants fleeing persecution, including Jewish people from Europe and inhabitants of former French colonies in North Africa. A bustling Chinese community added to the multicultural fabric of the districts, where cheap rent continues to attract many artists and migrants today. 127

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EXPERIENCE Belleville and Ménilmontant

1'

CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE LACHAISE  R6 ⌂ Blvd de Ménilmontant q Père Lachaise, Alexandre Dumas @ 26, 60, 61, 64, 69 to Pl Gambetta # 8am–5:30pm daily (from 8:30am Sat, 9am Sun; mid-Mar–early Nov: to 6pm)

This is the most visited cemetery in the world. It contains over 70,000 graves, including the tombs of numerous famous figures, such as the writer Honoré de Balzac, the composer Frédéric Chopin, the singer Jim Morrison and the actor Yves Montand. Paris’s most prestigious cemetery is set on a wooded hill overlooking the city. The land was once owned by Père de la Chaise, Louis XIV’s confessor, but it was bought in 1803 by order of Napoleon to create a new cemetery. Père Lachaise, the first cemetery in France with a crematorium, became so popular that it was expanded six times during the 19th century. Today the cemetery is a place of pilgrimage for rock fans, who come from around the world to see the grave of Jim Morrison of The Doors. With its mossgrown tombs and ancient trees, as well as striking funerary sculpture, Père Lachaise is an atmospheric and rather romantic place for a stroll.

A visitor exploring the funerary art among the lanes of Père Lachaise

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Did You Know? The remains of Molière were transferred here in 1817 to add historic glamour to the new cemetery.

Théodore Géricault’s tomb, with a depiction of The Raft of the Medusa

MUR DES FÉDÉRÉS Following France’s defeat in the FrancoPrussian War in 1871, a left-wing group revolted, setting up the Paris Commune. After 72 days, government troops marched on the city and in a week of brutal street fighting, much of the city was burned and thousands were killed. Mur des Fédérés in Père Lachaise is where the last Communard rebels were shot by government forces.

Notable Residents

Must See

Allan Kardec ▶ Kardec was the founder of a 19th-century spiritual cult, which still has a strong following. His tomb is perpetually covered in pilgrims’ flowers.

George Rodenbach The monument to this 19th-century poet depicts him rising out of his tomb with a rose in the hand of his outstretched arm.

Oscar Wilde The Irish dramatist, aesthete and great wit was exiled from virtuous Britain to die of drink and dissipation in Paris in 1900. AmericanBritish artist Jacob Epstein sculpted his tomb. ◀

Marcel Proust The French novelist brilliantly chronicled the belle époque in Remembrance of Things Past.

Sarah Bernhardt ▶ The great French tragedienne, who died in 1923 aged 78, was once the most famous actress in the world.

Edith Piaf Known as the “Little Sparrow” because of her size, Piaf was the 20th century’s greatest French popular singer. In her tragic voice, she sang of the sorrows and woes of the Paris working class.

Jim Morrison ▶ The Doors’ lead singer died in Paris in 1971. The circumstances of his death are still a mystery.

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Belleville and Ménilmontant

2Parc de Belleville  Q4 ⌂ 47 Rue des Couronnes 75020 q Couronnes, Belleville # Oct–May: 8am–dusk; Jun–Sep: 7am–dusk

It has less of the manicured appeal of some of Paris’s other parks, but the Parc de Belleville has views that no other green space can boast. This steep garden offers unparalleled panoramas of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame. The hill was originally settled by religious orders, who purchased parcels of land and planted vines. Guinguettes popped up in the Middle Ages, the outdoor pubs or beer gardens of their day. It was here that Parisians drank “piquette”, a young wine from the area, which today is also French slang for bad wine. Eventually windmills dominated the landscape, owing to the park’s altitude. The park is a welcome green space in densely populated east Paris. Between the patches of exquisitely

The streets of Belleville, with stalls selling fresh produce (inset)

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maintained flowerbeds are stairs and pathways crisscrossed by waterways and trestles. There is even a waterfall that trickles 100 m (328 ft) from the top of the grounds to the bottom. In a throwback to Belleville’s winemaking past, 140 grapevines grow on the slopes, and the grapes are harvested each year.

3\-= Rue de Belleville  P4 ⌂ 75020 q Belleville, Pyrénées, Jourdain

The main street of the former Belleville village, Rue de Belleville cuts through the district from Belleville Metro station. The street used to be the location of the old wall that separated Paris from its suburbs. Belleville gets its name from a deformation of the French words belle vue, or “beautiful view” – the reason for which becomes apparent when you look downhill from the street towards where the Eiffel Tower rises up in the

Did You Know? At 108 m (354 ft), Parc de Belleville is the highest park in Paris.

distance. The stretch between the Metro stations Belleville and Pyrénées is the most interesting. At No 72, a plaque commemorates the birth in 1915 of Edith Piaf, who, according to popular legend, was born here on the steps. Over the past decades, many ethnic restaurants and East Asian shops have sprung up along the street as immigrants have moved into the area, and all sorts of exotic and inexpensive food items can be found here. Restaurants serve a variety of dumplings, pork-filled bao and banh mi sandwiches that are worth the hike up the hilly street. Cafés are far from fussy affairs, serving inexpensive wine and beer in the old working-class Belleville tradition.

The “open-air art gallery” of Belleville’s Rue Dénoyez

4Rue Dénoyez  P4 ⌂ 75020 q Belleville

Throughout Paris, street artists take advantage of any surface they can. In Rue Dénoyez, however, it seems as if the city actively encourages it. This narrow street, tucked away off Rue de Belleville and formerly rather run down, is essentially an outdoor contemporary art gallery where street artists constantly leave their mark. It is named after a local family

who ran a popular dance hall in the 1830s, but today it is all about street art, reflecting the lively, bohemian spirit of the neighbourhood. On any given day, someone will be out there, spray-painting their newest mural on one of the walls. The buildings are mostly artists’ studios – some will let you in if you are lucky – but the real draw is the colourful and daring works on the walls. In recent years, some of the

studios have been replaced by more modern social housing, but the artistic spirit of Rue Dénoyez remains. Parisians still gather at the end of the street at Aux Folies, a bar known for its cheap drinks and a sea of plastic chairs spilling onto the sidewalk, while at the other end of the street Le Barbouquin is a great place to relax with a drink and a book from one of its groaning shelves.

DRINK Aux Folies

Plastic chairs all over the terrace give this a homey feel, reinforced by cheap drinks and loud locals.  P4 ⌂ 8 Rue de Belleville 75020 § 06 28 55 89 40

Le Barbouquin

This cosy café – part coffee shop, part bar and part bookshop/library – is an ideal chill-out spot. It also hosts regular music nights.  P4 ⌂ 1 Rue Dénoyez 75020 § 09 84 32 13 21

Café Chéri(e) An edgy dive bar, attracting a hip local crowd. On weekends, DJs play electro, rock, hiphop, funk and indie sets.  N3 ⌂ 44 Boulevard de la Villette 75019 § 09 53 05 93 36

Les Trois 8

A wide range of artisan beers and natural wines is the main draw at this trendy local watering hole.  Q5 ⌂ 11 Rue Victor Letalle 75020 ∑ lestrois8.fr

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EXPERIENCE Belleville and Ménilmontant

The ever-popular La Maroquinerie rock, pop and world music venue

5= Marché de Belleville  P4 ⌂ Blvd de Belleville 75020 q Belleville # Tues & Fri 7am–2:30pm

Every Tuesday and Friday morning, the Belleville outdoor market comes alive, stretching from the Belleville Metro station to Couronnes. It dates back to the 19th century, when it was just a little market for the independent commune outside Paris’s wall, and is still a popular and inexpensive source of fresh produce for eastern Parisians. The stalls follow the seasons, with clementines in the winter, strawberries in the spring, and the best tomatoes in late summer. Some stalls sell odds and ends such as wine openers, French candy bars

and bags of olives – it’s the place to stock up on anything and everything. Vendors yell out prices, pushing the foods that need to go. By the end of the market, they start selling large piles of produce for a euro, so there are true bargains to be had. The locals pile into the crowded market rain or shine, so be prepared to manoeuvre around caddies and Parisians arguing about bruised apples.

6"\ La Maroquinerie  R5 ⌂ 23 Rue Boyer 75020 q Ménilmontant, Gambetta ∑ lamaro quinerie.fr

True music fans will want to visit this former leather workshop turned concert

NIGHTLIFE HOTSPOT Both Belleville and Ménilmontant have historically been popular drinking locations with a reputation for being cheap and rowdy – labels that locals would defend proudly. Their former position just outside the tax wall meant that drinks were cheaper, so Parisians flocked to the guinguettes (taverns) that made these districts popular. Today the area is still known as inexpensive, whether it’s for cheap Vietnamese food or drinks at Les Trois 8. Nightlife has evolved from guinguettes as well, and popular hotspots such as La Bellevilloise and La Maroquinerie keep the neighbourhood lively at night.

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Did You Know? The first ever telegraph was communicated from Ménilmontant in 1793.

venue. It’s intimate, with a capacity of about 500, and has hosted some big names before they hit success. Bruno Mars and Mumford & Sons are just some of the acts who have played here. The bohemian-chic venue also has a restaurant with a constantly changing menu of French classics, and a terrace bar for drinking the night away. Book in advance for a wide range of musical productions.

7 Notre-Damede-la-Croix  Q5 ⌂ 3 Place de Ménilmontant 75020 q Ménilmontant, Couronnes # 8am–7:30pm Tue–Sat, 8:30am–7pm Sun ∑ notre damedelacroix.com

Consecrated in 1863 under the reign of Napoleon III, this stunning church looms over Ménilmontant, built as the

EAT Ama Siam

Modern Thai food, inspired by the chef’s family recipes, is served at this cheery spot.  P4 ⌂ 49 Rue de Belleville 75019 ¢ Mon & Tue ∑ amasiam.com ¡¡¡

Ravioli Nord-Est

population of the area boomed. Its architecture is an odd mix of Romanesque and Gothic elements, with an enormous tower reaching 78 m (256 ft) high. In terms of size, it’s actually the thirdlargest church in Paris after Notre-Dame and St-Sulpice. This district was particularly caught up by the Paris Commune of 1871, when Parisians rose up against the government, which had been exiled to Versailles by Prussian forces. During this turbulent time the Communards, as the rebels were known, held meetings in Notre-Damede-la-Croix. It was here that they decided to execute the Archbishop, Georges Darboy, who had been taken hostage by the Communards, on 24 May at the prison on Rue de la Roquette (p107). The church does not stir up much of this stormy history, but instead offers a splendid visit devoid of the tourists crushed into other monuments. Look out for the organ, constructed in two separate parts in order to avoid obstructing the rose window overhead. The church also has two significant artworks: Christ in Limbo (1819) by Pierre Delorme and Christ Curing the Sick (1827) by JeanPierre Granger.

It’s all about the dumplings here – homemade, cheap and delicious.

 N4 ⌂ 11 Rue de Civiale 75010 § 01 75 50 88 03 ¢ Wed ¡¡¡

Le Baratin

An institution; go to experience quintessentially meaty French fare.  Q4 ⌂ 3 Rue JouyeRouve 75020 § 01 43 49 39 70 ¢ Sun, Mon ¡¡¡

The Neo-Romanesque façade of NotreDame-de-la-Croix

8"\ La Bellevilloise  R5 ⌂ 19 Rue Boyer 75020 q Ménilmontant, Gambetta ∑ labelle villoise.com

Set up in 1877, this community art centre’s original aim was to bring cultural education to less affluent Parisians. This spirit lives on in its numerous events, which include concerts – often jazz or Latin – and art exhibits, as well as freelancer fairs, vintage markets and the occasional jazz brunch. A standout feature is the Halle aux Oliviers, a glass atrium performance area with tables surrounded by an urban jungle of sorts.

EXPERIENCE Belleville and Ménilmontant

The soaring Neo-Gothic interior of Église St-Jean-Baptiste

9 Église St-JeanBaptiste  Q3 ⌂ 139 Rue de Belleville 75019 q Jourdain # 8:15am–7:45pm daily (9:30am–8:30pm Mon, to 8:30pm Fri) ∑ sjbb.fr

As far as churches go, the Neo-Gothic St-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville flies under the radar of most people in Paris. Set high above the city in a vibrant district full of shops, it’s an exciting find for architecture enthusiasts. Built to

STAY Mama Shelter

This affordable modern hotel near Père Lachaise offers a comfortable alternative to tourist-laden central Paris.  S6 ⌂ 109 Rue de Bagnolet 75020 ∑ mamashelter.com ¡¡¡

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replace the original church dating back to the 1600s, the current structure was erected between 1854 and 1859. The architect, Jean-Baptiste Antoine Lassus, was a specialist in medieval architecture. He is largely responsible for bringing back Gothic themes in modern structures and participated heavily in the restorations of NotreDame and other monuments. Though a master in his craft, Lassus is often overlooked for the more famous Viollet-leDuc, who lauded this structure after Lassus’ death. It was, in fact, Lassus’ final project. This church, with its twin bell towers and vaulted ceilings, evokes the grandeur and traditions of churches such as the Sainte-Chapelle (p74).

10 \ - = Quartier Jourdain  R4 ⌂ 75019 & 75020 q Jourdain

If you are looking to get away from the crowds but still get a taste of Parisian life, an afternoon wandering the Jourdain quarter is a perfect

Stone carvings, Église St-JeanBaptiste

start. Sprawling out from the Neo-Gothic St-JeanBaptiste church, the area has really come into its own. The central square, full of cafés and quintessentially Parisian shops – cheese here, meat there, pastries everywhere – is little visited by tourists; this is one of the rare districts of Paris that still retains a village feel. It might be towards the edge of the city, but it is a quick and easy trip on line 11 of the Metro from Hôtel de Ville in the centre. The nearby Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (p146) pairs nicely with a visit to Jourdain, as does a detour to Le Plateau on Rue des Alouettes, an industrial-white exhibition

space run by Frac (the Fonds régional d’art contemporain, or regional collection of con­ temporary art). It displays modern art – including paintings, photography and everything in between – from its 1,600­piece collection. There’s also occasional performance art.

11 Regard St-Martin  R4 ⌂ 42 Rue des Cascades 75020 q Jourdain, Pyrénées

This curious little stone building on Rue des Cascades was once vital to ensuring medieval Parisians had clean drinking water. Known as a regard – or, essentially, a manhole – it was part of a system to collect rainwater from the hilly area of Belle­ ville and channel it to the fountains of Paris below. The water of the Seine was infamously dirty, polluted by the mix of sewage and chemicals from tanneries flowing into it. These stone structures provided fresh water before the canals were constructed in the 19th century. Renovated in the 17th century (as a plaque in Latin on the building testifies), but dating from the 12th century, the Regard St­Martin still functions, except that nowadays the water makes it no further than the sewers.

ARTISTS OF BELLEVILLE In the late 1990s, artists flocked to Belleville for cheap rents, ample space and the bohemian lifestyle that many still associate with Paris today. Their galleries, like those along Rue Dénoyez (p133), have become permanent fixtures. Each year for four days at the end of May, artists all over Belleville open up their workshops, welcoming thousands of visitors into around 120 studios producing painting, photography, sculpture and ceramics. The Portes Ouvertes, literally “open doors”, has been running since 1990. More information can be found online at ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr.

cobbled streets. La Campagne, literally “the countryside”, feels exactly like that. A pastor, Sully Lombard, conceived of the development in 1907 for lower­income Parisians. Built on top of an old gypsum quarry and completed well after World War I, the 90­odd houses stood out from the rest of

Paris’s architecture. Brick façades, creeping ivy and wisteria, and tiny gated gardens full of roses and clematis adorn the two­storey houses. These provincial­ looking cobbled streets offer some splendid photo opportunities and are a wonderful oasis of calm away from the bustle of urban Paris.

12 La Campagne à Paris  T5 ⌂ Rue du PèreProsper-Enfantin, Rue Irénée Blanc, Rue Mondonville, Rue Jules Siegfried 75020 q Porte de Bagnolet

This former housing estate is one of the most picturesque parts of Paris, with stone­ fronted houses lining the

One of the village-like streets that make up La Campagne à Paris

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The Philharmonie de Paris, designed by Jean Nouvel

LA VILLETTE A Gallo-Roman town once stood in this area, which subsequently became home to religious workers at a nearby leper colony. It remained an agricultural hamlet beyond the city wall for many years, but gained attention when Napoleon began his canal project here. The district formally joined Paris in 1859. La Villette is best known for its large 19th-century slaughterhouses, constructed under Napoleon III. The giant halls replaced those in five other locations in Paris, centralizing the city’s meat industry. By the 1970s, the slaughterhouses had ceased operations and the mayor decided to revive the area with a new park. Designed in the 1980s, Paris’s thirdlargest green space evokes post-modern and deconstructive concepts, with standout cultural centres including Europe’s largest science museum and the Philharmonie de Paris, designed by Jean Nouvel. Outside the park there are theatres and art centres to explore, as well as another of Paris’s most iconic green spaces, the Buttes-Chaumont. 139

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EXPERIENCE La Villette

PARC DE LA VILLETTE  Q1 ⌂ 211 Ave Jean Jaurès 75019 q Porte de Pantin, Porte de la Villette @ 75, 139, 150, 152, 375 v T3b # Public spaces: 24 hrs daily; gardens: May–Sep: 3–7pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar: by reservation only); Jardin des Vents et des Dunes: Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm daily (Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed, Sat & Sun, plus public and school holidays) ∑ lavillette.com

This inventive urban park offers an appealing combination of nature and modern architecture, containing gardens, playgrounds and a variety of cultural spaces. Urban Regeneration Once home to slaughterhouses and a livestock market, this former industrial area has been transformed into a vibrant urban park. Designed by Bernard Tschumi, its vast facilities cover 55 ha (136 acres) of a previously run-down part of the city. The plan was to revive the tradition of parks for meetings and activities, and to stimulate interest in the

26

jaunty, red modern follies brighten up the park.

arts and sciences. Work began in 1984, and the park has grown to include the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie – a high-tech hands-on science museum (p144) – a cutting-edge concert hall, an exhibition pavilion, a spherical cinema, a circus and a music centre. Linking them all is the park itself, Paris’s third largest, with its follies, walkways, gardens and playgrounds. In the summer, the park holds several festivals, including an open-air film event.

Must See OPEN-AIR FILM FESTIVAL Each summer the park hosts the free Cinéma en Plein Air festival (p59), screening a mix of French and international films in the open air several evenings a week for a month. Deckchairs and blankets are available for hire, and many people bring their own picnic to make an evening of it.

Taking time out in the sunshine in front of one of the cafés in the park

The view from the rooftop of the Philharmonie de Paris concert hall (p147)

2"\-=

CITÉ DES SCIENCES ET DE L’INDUSTRIE  Q1 ⌂ 30 Ave Corentin Cariou 75019 q Porte de la Villette @ 75, 139, 150, 152, 375 v T3b # 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–7pm Sun, advance booking required ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ cite-sciences.fr

Located within the Parc de la Villette, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is an interactive science and technology museum that is hugely popular with families. The museum occupies the largest of the old Villette slaughterhouses. Architect Adrien Fainsilber has created an imaginative interplay of light, vegetation and water in the high-tech, five-storey building, which soars 40 m (133 ft) high, stretching over 3 ha (7 acres). At the museum’s heart is the Explora exhibit, a 144

fascinating guide to the worlds of science and technology. Visitors can take part in computerized games on space, the earth, transport, energy, design and sound. On other levels, there is a children’s science city with machines to play and experiment with, a planetarium, a library and shops.

Must See

3 greenhouses on the southern façade flood the building with natural light.

The Story of the Universe, taking visitors back 13.7 billion years to the creation of the first atom

LA GÉODE Fittingly for a building that looks as if it is from the set of a sci-fi movie, this Adrien Fainsilberdesigned sphere houses a cinema showing IMAX and 3D films. The enormous 1,000-sq-m (11,000-sq-ft) screen provides an immersive experience.

The museum building, encircled by a moat and joined to the park via raised walkways

Youngsters observing plants and insects in the garden of the children’s science city

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE La Villette

3\ Parc des ButtesChaumont  Q2 ⌂ Rue Manin 75019 (main access from Rue Armand Carrel) q Botzaris, ButtesChaumont # 7am–8pm daily (open 24 hrs in summer)

For many, this is the most pleasant and unexpected park in the city. The pan­ oramic hilly site was formerly a gallows for the execution of criminals, a lime quarry HIDDEN GEM

Rosa Bonheur Named after a 19thcentury artist, Rosa Bonheur is a popular guinguette in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. It’s a bucolic spot for a glass of wine and tapas, and on Sunday nights it’s a popular LGBT+ venue.

and a rubbish dump. It was converted in the mid­1860s, one of Napoleon III’s many projects to renovate the city. Baron Haussmann worked with the landscape architect/designer Adolphe Alphand, who organized a vast programme to furnish the new pavement­lined avenues with benches and lampposts. Others involved in the creation of this large park were the engineer Darcel and the landscape gardener Barillet­Deschamps. They created a lake and made an island with real and artificial rocks, which they crowned with a Roman­style classical temple (the Temple de la Sibylle, modelled after the Temple of Sybil in Tivoli, Italy). The pair also added a waterfall, streams, and two footbridges to connect the island to the park.

4"\-= Cinéma Quai de la Loire and Quai de Seine  N2 ⌂ 7 Quai de la Loire & 14 Quai de la Seine 75019 q Stalingrad, Jaurès ∑ mk2.com

These two cinemas on opposite banks of the canal basin are popular hangouts during the evenings. Neigh­ bouring cafés and bars fill with cinephiles who are waiting to see the latest release. The cinemas screen a large selection of French and international movies that cater to both art­house and blockbuster crowds, sometimes showing

The romantic Parc des ButtesChaumont

Views from the Temple in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

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The state-of-the-art interior of the Paris Philharmonic concert hall

Hollywood pictures before their US release. When buying a ticket, note which cinema your film is in; if it’s on the opposite bank, a water shuttle will carry you across the canal. Bear in mind that international films are shown in VO (version originale) or VF (version française). If you don’t want to watch a film dubbed into French buy tickets for the VO version. Afterwards, you could join a game of pétanque along the canal, just next to the cinema, where Parisians while away their evenings.

5"'\-= Philharmonie de Paris  R1 ⌂ 221 Ave Jean Jaurès 75019 q Porte de Pantin # Noon–6pm Tue–Sun (from 10am Sat & Sun) ¢ Mon ∑ philharmoniedeparis.fr

Built in 2015, the futuristic Philharmonie, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, rises above Parc de la Villette like a silver spaceship. The main concert hall seats up to 3,650 people, depending on the configuration and

the placement of floating balconies. The idea is that spectators are never further than 32 m (105 ft) from the conductor, creating a more immersive, intimate experi­ ence. The building went well over budget – more than double the expected €170 million – causing quite a scandal. Still, the hall’s inaug­ ural concert, held in honour of the victims of that year’s Charlie Hebdo attacks, was well attended, with patrons including then­president François Hollande. The Philharmonie caters mostly to symphonic concerts, but also hosts jazz and world music performances. It houses cultural centres and exhibi­ tion halls, as well as smaller concert halls. Visitors can book a concert or just pop into one of its two restaurants for a meal with views over the park. The Philharmonie offers guided tours, with bookings available through their web­ site. Smaller­scale concerts are also held at the neigh­ bouring Cité de la Musique, designed in 1995 by Christian de Portzamparc and now rechristened Philharmonie 2.

Built in 2015, the futuristic Philharmonie, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, rises above Parc de la Villette like a silver spaceship.

EAT La Rotonde

Part of Paris’s last great peripherary wall, this lovely classical-style rotonda is now a great stop for afternoon or evening drinks.  N2 ⌂ 6–8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad 75019 ∑ larotonde stalingrad.com ¡¡¡

Le 25 Degrés Est

With a terrace overlooking the canal, this laid-back barrestaurant attracts sun-seekers in the summer.  N2 ⌂ 10 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad 75019 § 01 42 09 66 74 ¡¡¡

Mezig

Located on the canal, this local joint, with adorably mismatched furniture, serves up reliable, standard fare.  N1 ⌂ 44 bis Quai de la Loire 75019 § 09 81 42 98 14 ¡¡¡

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The rooftop of Jean Nouvel’s Philharmonie de Paris

The Fontaine aux Lions in front of La Grande Halle de la Villette

6"Cabaret Sauvage  R1 ⌂ 59 Blvd Macdonald 75019 q Porte de la Villette ∑ cabaret sauvage.com

On the bank of the canal, just before it leaves Paris’s city limits, a curious venue stands all by itself in the Parc de la Villette. Opened in 1997, the Cabaret Sauvage is an entertainment venue unlike any other in Paris. Algerian-born Méziane Azaïche created the space, which welcomes all sorts of up-and-coming and little-known artists. Concerts and shows range

from contemporary acrobatic and circus displays to dance and West African musical performances, and international artists such as Redman, Mos Def and Noel Gallagher have played here over the years. Inside the red velour draping, spectators cannot help but be drawn into the Cabaret Sauvage’s unique circus-ring atmosphere: there are bevelled mirrors, banquettes and a circular dance floor. Recent renovations have resulted in improved acoustics, plus a wide terrace for open-air events. A night out at the Cabaret Sauvage is sure to be as memorable as it is individual.

BASSIN DE LA VILLETTE The Bassin de la Villette hosts activities all year. Join Parisians, both young and old, in a game of pétanque on the banks, or try your hand at Mölkky, a Finnish game with wooden pins. The canal is popular with locals for rowing, but visitors can also hit the water by renting a motorboat from the Marin d’Eau Douce. A Paris Plage (beach) is set up here in July and August, and there is swimming and boating. The most popular activity, however, is picnicking. Head here early, especially in the summer, to secure a space along the waterfront.

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7"\-= La Grande Halle de la Villette  Q1 ⌂ 211 Ave Jean Jaurès 75019 q Porte de Pantin ∑ lavillette.com

A former slaughterhouse, this massive hall is one of three that were once in this part of La Villette. In the 19th century, Haussmann decided it would be easier to concentrate all of the meat industry in one spot. Eventually, and perhaps unsurprisingly, the area gained the nickname “City of Blood”. In the 1980s, the veal hall was destroyed while the sheep hall was

Inside the red velour draping, spectators cannot help but be drawn into the Cabaret Sauvage’s unique circus-ring atmosphere. deconstructed in hopes of rebuilding it elsewhere. President Mitterrand pre­ served this iron beauty, used for slaughtering cows for beef, and today it houses an event space. Concerts, plays, exhibitions and other events take place regularly. Drop into the café/restaurant for a coffee or meal; it has an inviting garden area for when the weather is fair.

8\-= Le 104  N1 ⌂ 5 Rue Curial 75019 q Riquet, Stalingrad # Noon–7pm daily (from 11am Sat & Sun) ¢ Mon ∑ 104.fr

It might not be obvious upon entering, but this art centre was originally built by the Parisian Archbishop in 1874 for funeral services. It housed a coffin warehouse, stables for horses and shops where indiv­ iduals could purchase decora­

tions for tombs. Eventually the hearses of the 20th century disappeared when the public sector lost its monopoly on conducting funeral services. The space, however, underwent a renaissance. The vast hall, with iron beams and a glass roof, was slowly transformed into Le 104 (or Le Centquatre), an artists’ residence and exhibition space. The centre is an excellent example of urban renewal in a city skilled at repurposing its historic structures. The mayor inaugurated the space in 2008, and the city still funds the majority of its costs. Today there are performances, concerts and art shows year­ round, open to the public. Visitors can see artists at work experimenting with different media. Le Centquatre is quickly becoming a major player on the local and international art scene: it has hosted exhibitions dedicated to well­known con­ temporary artists such as Keith Haring and Krijn de Koning.

DRINK Point Éphémère

Part concert hall, part drinking venue. There are often special nights with food trucks or other pop-ups.  N2 ⌂ 200 Quai de Valmy 75010 ∑ pointephemere.org

Paname Brewing Company

Perched on the canal in an old warehouse; local craft beers are the favourite here.  P1 ⌂ 41 bis Quai de la Loire 75019 ∑ panamebrewing company.com

Le Pavillon Puebla

Nestled in the greenery of Parc des ButtesChaumont, this is a peaceful oasis with a mix of Moroccan and modern touches.  P3 ⌂ 39 Avenue Simon Bolivar 75019 ∑ leperchoir.fr

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A cobbled street leading to Montmartre’s Sacré-Coeur

MONTMARTRE AND PIGALLE Once a separate village outside Paris, Montmartre was formerly a rural district dotted with windmills and vineyards. Following its incorporation into the city limits in 1860, it swiftly transformed into an urban neighbourhood that was popular with the working classes for its low-cost housing. By the end of the 19th century, this bohemian area had a reputation for decadence and free living, which turned it into a magnet for artists, writers and intellectuals. The still-standing Bateau-Lavoir was a shared studio and home to artists such as Matisse, Picasso and Modigliani. Montmartre’s reputation for depravity stemmed in large part from its numerous dance halls, among them the infamous Moulin Rouge, said to have been the birthplace of the cancan dance. Although some of the entertainment has taken on a seedier character, Montmartre and Pigalle are still popular nightlife destinations, with numerous lively bars and restaurants. 153

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EXPERIENCE Montmartre and Pigalle

SACRÉ-COEUR  J1 ⌂ 35 Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre 75018 q Abbesses (then take funicular to the steps of the Sacré-Coeur), Anvers, Barbès-Rochechouart, Lamarck-Caulaincourt @ 30, 31, 54, 80, 85 # 6am–10:30pm daily; dome: Oct–Feb: 10am–5:30pm daily; Mar–May: 9:30am–7pm daily; Jun–Sep: 9am– 8:30pm daily ∑ sacre-coeur-montmartre.com

Situated atop the hill of Montmartre, the spectacular white basilica of the Sacré-Coeur watches over Paris from the city’s highest point. It stands as a memorial to the 58,000 French soldiers killed during the Franco-Prussian War. Six months after the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, two Catholic businessmen made a private religious vow to build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Christ, as penance for France’s sins. The two men, Alexandre Legentil and Hubert Rohault de Fleury, lived to see Paris saved from invasion despite the war and a lengthy siege – and were able to witness the start of work on the Sacré-Coeur basilica. The project was taken up by Archbishop Guibert of Paris and construction began in 1875 to Paul Abadie’s designs, which were inspired by the Romano-Byzantine church of St-Front in Périgueux. The basilica was completed in 1914, but its consecration was forestalled by World War I until 1919, when France was victorious.

Spiral staircase

Bell tower

Ovoid dome

THE SIEGE OF PARIS Prussia invaded France in 1870. During the four-month siege of Paris, instigated by the Prusso-German statesman Otto von Bismarck, hungry Parisians were forced to eat the city’s horses and other animals.

Statue of Christ

Equestrian statues

Main entrance The 83-m(272-ft-) high basilica

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Crypt vaults

Must See PICTURE PERFECT

The Basilica and the City

The best view of the Sacré-Coeur is from the gardens below, but for a 360-degree panorama of the city, climb the 300 steps to the top of the basilica dome.

The beautiful basilica, crowned by its elegant ovoid dome

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Montmartre and Pigalle

2 St-Pierre de Montmartre  J1 ⌂ 2 Rue du MontCenis 75018 q Abbesses # 8am–7pm daily (to 6pm Fri) ∑ saintpierrede montmartre.net

Situated in the shadow of the Sacré-Coeur basilica, St-Pierre de Montmartre is all that remains of the great Benedictine Abbey of Montmartre, which was founded in 1133 by Louis VI and his wife, Adelaide of Savoy, who – as its first abbess – is buried here. Inside the church are four marble columns supposedly from a Roman temple which once stood on the site. The vaulted choir dates from The church of St-Pierre de Montmartre

the 12th century, the nave was remodelled in the 15th century and the west front in the 18th. During the Revolution, the abbess was executed by guillotine, and the church fell into disuse. St-Pierre was reconsecrated in 1908. Gothic-style stainedglass windows replace those destroyed by a bomb in World War II. The tiny cemetery opens to the public only once a year, on 1 November.

3\-= Place du Tertre  J1 ⌂ 75018 q Abbesses

Tertre means “hillock”, or mound, and this picturesque square is the highest point in Paris at 130 m (430 ft).

It was once the site of the abbey gallows but is associated with artists, who began exhibiting paintings here in the 19th century. It is lined with colourful restaurants – La Mère Catherine dates back to 1793. The house at No 21 was formerly the home of the irreverent “Free Commune”, founded in 1920 to perpetuate the bohemian spirit of the area. The Old Montmartre information office is now here.

4' St-Jean l’Évangéliste de Montmartre  H2 ⌂ 19 Rue des Abbesses 75018 q Abbesses # 9am–7pm Mon–Sat; 9:30am–6pm Sun (to 7pm summer) ∑ saintjeandemont martre.com

Designed by Anatole de Baudot and completed in 1904, this church was, controversially, the first to be built from reinforced concrete. The flower motifs on the interior are typical of the Art Nouveau style, while its interlocking arches suggest Islamic architecture. The redbrick facing has earned it the nickname St-Jean-des-Briques.

5\-= Place des Abbesses  H2 ⌂ 75018 q Abbesses

This is one of Paris’s most picturesque squares. It is sandwiched between the rather dubious attractions of Place Pigalle, with its strip clubs, and Place du Tertre, which is usually mobbed by tourists. Be sure not to miss the Abbesses Metro station with its unusual green wrought-iron arches and 158

The charming Place du Tertre with its many restaurants

amber lights. Designed by the architect Hector Guimard, it is one of the few surviving original Art Nouveau stations.

6 Cimetière de Montmartre  G1 ⌂ 20 Ave Rachel 75018 § 01 53 42 36 30 q Place de Clichy, Blanche # 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–6pm Sat, 9am–6pm Sun (to 5:30pm winter)

This has been the resting place for many artistic lumi­ naries since the beginning of the 19th century. The composers Hector Berlioz and Jacques Offenbach (who wrote the famous cancan tune) are buried here, alongside many other celebrities, such as La Goulue (stage name of Louise Weber, the cancan’s first star performer and Toulouse­Lautrec’s model), the painter Edgar Degas, writer Alexandre Dumas, German poet Heinrich Heine,

EAT Russian dancer Vaslav Nijinsky and film director François Truffaut. Cimetière de Montmartre is an evocative, atmospheric place, conveying some of the heated energy and artistic creativity of the area a century ago. To the east, close to Square Roland Dorgelès, is the often overlooked Cimetière St-Vincent. Here lie more of the great artistic names of the district, including Swiss composer Arthur Honegger and writer Marcel Aymé. Most notable of all is the grave of the great French painter Maurice Utrillo, one of the few famous Montmartre artists actually born in the area and many of whose works afford some of the most enduring, evocative images of the district. Cimetière St-Vincent ⌂ 6 Rue Lucien-Gaulard 75018 § 01 46 06 29 78 q Lamarck-Caulaincourt # 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–6pm Sat, 9am–6pm Sun (to 5:30pm winter)

Cimetière de Montmartre is an evocative, atmospheric place, conveying some of the heated energy and artistic creativity of the area a century ago.

Un Zèbre à Montmartre

This is a great go-to for a lunchtime croque monsieur or an evening salmon tartare.  H1 ⌂ 38 Rue Lepic 75018 ∑ zebreamontmartre.fr ¡¡¡

Le Pantruche

A handwritten menu is always a good sign; here they serve French classics with fun twists.  J2 ⌂ 3 Rue Victor Massé 75009 ¢ Sat, Sun ∑ lepantruche.fr ¡¡¡

Restaurant Caillebotte

Lunchtime specials are a steal at this little modern bistro, owned by the team behind Le Pantruche (above).  J3 ⌂ 8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas 75009 ¢ Sun ∑ restaurantcaillebotte.com ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Montmartre and Pigalle

The Moulin de la Galette, one of two windmills that can still be seen in Montmartre

STAY Hôtel Amour

Lively and contemporary, but always with a romantic undertone.  J2 ⌂ 8 Rue de Navarin 75009 ∑ hotelamourparis.fr ¡¡¡

Le Pigalle

Rooms are decorated with a tasteful play on the former red light district surroundings. Great breakfast and restaurant downstairs.  H2 ⌂ 9 Rue Frochot 75009 ∑ lepigalle.paris ¡¡¡

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

Suites in this 19thcentury mansion are ideally located for exploring the Montmartre and Pigalle districts.  H1 ⌂ 23 Ave Junot 75018 ∑ hotel-particuliermontmartre.com ¡¡¡

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7"= Dalí Paris  J1 ⌂ 11 Rue Poulbot 75018 q Abbesses # 10am–6:30pm daily ¢ 24 & 25 Dec ∑ daliparis.com

A permanent exhibition of more than 300 works by the prolific painter and sculptor Salvador Dalí is displayed at this small but substantial space in the heart of Montmartre. Through this impressive private collection – France’s largest – of Dalí’s Surrealist paintings, sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, the dramatic character of the 20th-century Catalan genius comes to light. This fascinating museum also houses a commercial art gallery.

8"'-= Musée de Montmartre  J1 ⌂ 12 Rue Cortot 75018 q Abbesses, Anvers # 10am–6pm daily (to 7pm Apr–Sep) ∑ museedemontmartre.fr

During the 17th century, this charming home belonged to the actor Rosimond (Claude de la Rose), a member of Molière’s theatre company. From 1875, the big white house, undoubtedly the finest in Montmartre, provided living and studio space for artists, including Maurice Utrillo and his mother Suzanne Valadon,

a former acrobat and model who became a talented painter, as well as Raoul Dufy and Auguste Renoir. The museum recounts the history of Montmartre through artifacts, drawings and photographs. It is particularly rich in memorabilia of bohemian life, and has a reconstruction of the Café de l’Abreuvoir, Utrillo’s favourite watering hole. Valdon’s studio-apartment was renovated and opened to the public in 2014, as was the Hôtel Demarne, which stages temporary exhibitions on Montmartre themes.

9 Moulin de la Galette  H1 ⌂ T-junction at Rue Tholozé and Rue Lepic 75018 q LamarckCaulaincourt, Abbesses

Once, some 14 windmills dotted the Montmartre skyline and were used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes. Today, only two remain, both on Rue Lepic: the Radet, now above a restaurant confusingly named Moulin de la Galette, and the reconstructed Moulin de la Galette, originally built in 1622 and formerly known as the Blute-fin. One of its mill owners, Debray, was supposedly crucified on one of the windmill’s sails during the 1814 Siege of Paris. He

had been trying to repulse the invading Cossacks. At the end of the 19th century, both mills became famous dance halls providing inspiration for many artists, notably Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Vincent van Gogh. The steep Rue Lepic is a busy shopping area. The Impressionist painter Armand Guillaumin once lived on the first floor of No 54. Van Gogh inhabited its third floor, and painted the view from there.

10 " \ Au Lapin Agile  J1 ⌂ 22 Rue des Saules 75018 q LamarckCaulaincourt # 9pm–1am Tue–Sun ∑ au-lapinagile.com

The former Cabaret des Assassins derived its current name from a sign painted by the humorist André Gill. His picture of a rabbit escaping from a cooking pot (Le Lapin à Gill) is a pun on his own name. The club enjoyed popularity with intellectuals and artists at the start of the 20th century. Here in 1911, the novelist Roland Dorgelès

and a group of other regulars staged one of the modern art world’s most celebrated hoaxes, with the help of the café owner’s donkey, Lolo. A paintbrush was tied to Lolo’s tail, and the resulting daub was shown to critical acclaim at the Salon des Indépendants, under the enlightening title Sunset over the Adriatic, before the joke was revealed. In 1903, the premises were bought by the cabaret entrepreneur Aristide Bruand (painted in a series of posters by Toulouse-Lautrec). Years later, the cabaret venue manages to retain much of its original atmosphere.

INSIDER TIP

Best Baguettes Many of Montmartre’s bakeries are winners of Paris’s “Best Baguette” award; look for stickers in the shop windows. Grenier à Pain, at 38 Rue des Abbesses, has achieved the feat of winning the title twice.

11 " - = Halle St-Pierre  J1 ⌂ 2 Rue Ronsard 75018 q Anvers # 11am– 6pm Mon–Fri, 11am–7pm Sat, noon–6pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 July, 15 Aug, Sat & Sun in Aug, 25 Dec  ∑ halle saintpierre.org

In 1945, the French painter Jean Dubuffet developed the concept of Art Brut (Outsider

or Marginal Art) to describe works created outside the boundaries of “official” culture, often by psychiatric patients, prisoners and children. The Halle St-Pierre, at the foot of the Butte, is a museum and gallery devoted to these “raw” art forms. It also hosts avantgarde theatre and musical productions, holds regular literary evenings and debates and runs children’s workshops. In addition to temporary exhibitions, the permanent collection includes more than 500 works of Naïve art collected by the publisher Max Fourny in the 1970s. There is also a specialist bookshop and café.

Suzanne Valadon’s studio-apartment at the Musée de Montmartre

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The stunning view from the Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre

12 Batignolles

EXPERIENCE Montmartre and Pigalle

 F1 ⌂ 75017 q Place de Clichy, Rome, Brochant

Formerly used as a royal hunting ground, this neighbourhood in the 17th arrondissement of northwestern Paris later grew into a small hamlet. Although it officially became part of the city in the second half of the 19th century, it still feels like a small French village inside cosmopolitan Paris. In the 19th century, the area had a lively cultural vibe and counted among its residents the painter Edouard Manet and his fellow artists (who became known as the Groupe des Batignolles), the writer Émile Zola and, later, the Belgian singer Jacques Brel. The lovely church of Ste-Marie des Batignolles sits in the heart of the neighbourhood. While Batignolles has a calm, community feel, it also has a slightly urban atmosphere, with a good mix of well-frequented bars, stylish boutiques and restaurants. It was one of the first areas in Paris to label its up-andcoming class of residents bobos, a short-hand term for “bourgeois bohemians”. Two markets are held in the area: the organic Marché Biologique des Batignolles on Boulevard des Batignolles and the covered market on Rue Lemercier, which dates back to 1846. At weekends, families converge on the area’s several parks, the two largest being the Square des Batignolles and

Did You Know? The Pigalle district was dubbed “Pig Alley” by Allied troops after WWII because of its bawdy nightlife.

the Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin-Luther-King, which features playgrounds, duck ponds, a skate park and running trails. The district has undergone substantial development in recent years, and there are modern flats, shops and office buildings, including the new Paris law courts.

13 " \ = Moulin Rouge  H2 ⌂ 82 Blvd de Clichy 75018 q Blanche # Dinner: 7pm; shows: 9pm and 11pm daily ∑ moulinrouge.fr

Built in 1885, the Moulin Rouge was turned into a dance hall as early as 1900. The cancan originated in Montparnasse, in the polka gardens of the Rue de la Grande-Chaumière, but it will always be associated with the Moulin Rouge, where the wild and colourful dance shows were immortalized in the posters and drawings of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The high-kicking routines of famous “Doriss girls” such as Yvette Guilbert and Jane Avril continue today in a glittering,

MONTMARTRE’S WINDMILLS Windmills were common in Montmartre in the late 19th century, when the area was still essentially a village. As the city began to consume the local farmland, proprietors turned their nearly defunct windmills into entertainment venues such as the Moulin de la Galette (p160). The most famous windmill, the Moulin Rouge, pays homage to these parties, though it was never actually a functional windmill itself.

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The Moulin Rouge, an iconic symbol of Parisian nightlife

Las Vegas-style revue that includes sophisticated light shows and displays of magic.

14 - = Musée de la Vie Romantique  H2 ⌂ 16 Rue Chaptal 75009 q Blanche, Pigalle # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun, advance booking recommended ¢ Public hols ∑ museevie romantique.paris.fr

This quaint, tiny 19th-century house was once home to Ary Scheffer, the portrait painter of the monarch during the Bourbon Restoration. Here, the artist welcomed great cultural icons of the mid-19th century, including Eugène Delacroix and Charles Dickens. Now a museum, the house displays 19th-century paintings, and

SHOP Maison Arnaud Delmontel

Come for exquisite bread and pastries from this awardwinning bakery.  J2 ⌂ 39 Rue des Martyrs ∑ arnauddelmontel.com

Mamiche

A friendly boulangerie with a fabulous chocolate babka.  J2 ⌂ 45 Rue Condorcet ∑ mamiche.fr

Popelini

Cream-filled choux and nothing else – well, what else is there?  J3 ⌂ 44 Rue des Martyrs ∑ popelini.com

Henri Le Roux

artifacts that belonged to celebrated author George Sand, as well as her lover Frédéric Chopin. Sand was a prolific writer and critic of the populist uprising known as the Commune. She also famously wore men’s clothes in public and smoked tobacco, unlike most women of the time. The museum has a lovely garden café.

tried-and-tested destinations adored by Parisians and visitors alike: pastry shops, restaurants, cafés, and even a boutique dedicated to salted-butter caramel. A few recognizable brands pop up here and there, but overall the street is one of the most individual and fashionable in Paris.

Salted-butter caramels and chocolate fill this boutique.  J3 ⌂ 24 Rue des Martyrs ∑ chocolatleroux.com

15 \ - = Rue des Martyrs  J2 ⌂ 75009 q Pigalle

This quintessentially Parisian street owes its name to Saint Denis, who was martyred nearby. Rue des Martyrs retains much of the local, marketstreet vibe that has been lost in many similar locations in Paris. The street is full of

The pretty garden café at the Musée de la Vie Romantique

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A SHORT WALK

Clos Montmartre is one of the last surviving vineyards in Paris. The grape harvest is celebrated on the first Saturday in October.

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest Metro Abbesses Time 20 minutes Metro Lamarck Caulaincourt

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Au Lapin Agile, a rustic café and cabaret, was a popular meeting point for artists including Picasso (p161).

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Dalí Paris is France’s only permanent collection of the Surrealist master’s sculptures, paintings and graphic works (p160). The bustling Place du Tertre is the tourist centre of Montmartre and is full of portraitists and other easel artists (p158). Cafés and bars surround the square. Admiring the works of street artists in the lively Place du Tertre

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Musée de Montmartre (p160) features the work of artists who lived in the area. Look out for the Portrait of a Woman (1918), by the Italian painter and sculptor Amedeo Modigliani.

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The steep hill of Montmartre has proved a draw for Parisians and visitors for centuries. Artists Théodore Géricault and Camille Corot came here at the start of the 19th century, and in the 20th century Maurice Utrillo immortalized the streets in his works. Today, this picturesque district, which in places still preserves the atmosphere of pre-War Paris, is a perfect place to wander. A stop at the Place du Tertre is recommended: admire the works of street artists and relax with a coffee and pastry before heading back down the hill.

EN

EXPERIENCE Montmartre and Pigalle

MONTMARTRE

La Mère Catherine was a favourite eating place of Russian Cossacks in 1814. They would bang on the table and shout “Bistro!” (Russian for “quick”) – hence the Paris bistro was born.

MONTMARTRE AND PIGALLE

St-Pierre de Montmartre was transformed into a “Temple of Reason” during the Revolution (p158).

Locator Map

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The Romano-Byzantine Sacré-Coeur, started in the 1870s and completed in 1914, is a highlight of the area (p156).

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The beautiful SacréCoeur, illuminated at sunrise

The funiculaire, or cable railway, at the end of Rue Foyatier, takes you to the foot of the basilica of Sacré-Coeur. Metro tickets are valid on it.

Halle St-Pierre hosts exhibitions of Art Brut and Naïve Art (p161).

Did You Know? Montmartre’s name is ascribed to local martyrs tortured in around AD 250: mons martyrium.

Square Louise-Michel lies below the parvis (forecourt) of Sacré-Coeur. It is laid out on the side of the hill in a series of descending terraces with lawns, shrubs, trees and flower beds.

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Galeries Lafayette department store

OPÉRA AND GRANDS BOULEVARDS Known for its elegant avenues and the Opéra Garnier, this area was an important focus of Baron Haussmann’s renovation of Paris in the 19th century. The crowded streets of the medieval city were demolished to make way for a series of Grands Boulevards – Madeleine, Capucines, Italiens and Montmartre – wide avenues flanked by imposing stone buildings with intricate wrought-iron balconies. Many glass-roofed shopping arcades were also constructed around this time, followed by the Printemps and Galeries Lafayette department stores, which firmly established the area’s reputation as a major shopping destination. It also became a popular entertainment district, with venues including the dazzling Opéra National de Paris Garnier, and in 1895 the Lumière brothers held the world’s first public film show at the Grand Café on Boulevard des Capucines. Today the area is more of a business hub, but night-time revellers will still find a host of clubs and theatres to enjoy. 169

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OPÉRA AND OPÉRA AND GRANDSGRANDS BOULEVARDS BOULEVARDS

EXPERIENCE Opéra and Grands Boulevards

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OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS GARNIER  H4 ⌂ Pl de l’Opéra 75009 q Opéra # 10am–6pm daily for pre-booked, timed guided tour slots (to 2:30pm on days of matinée performances & public hols) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May ∑ operadeparis.fr

Sometimes compared to a giant wedding cake, this palatial opera house with its ornate interior is a sumptuous setting in which to enjoy a ballet or opera. The building was designed by Charles Garnier for Napoleon III; construction started in 1862 and finished in 1875 after interruptions from the Prussian War and 1871 uprising. Its unique appearance is due to a mixture of materials (including stone, marble and bronze) and styles, ranging from classical to Baroque, with columns, friezes and sculptures on the exterior. Behind the flat-topped foyer, the cupola sits above the auditorium, while the triangular pediment that rises up behind the cupola marks the front of the stage. Don’t miss the magnificent Grand Staircase, made of white marble with a

Did You Know? Underneath the building is a small lake, which inspired the phantom’s hiding place in Phantom of the Opera.

balustrade of red and green marble, and the Grand Foyer, its domed ceiling covered with mosaics. The five-tiered auditorium is a riot of red velvet, plaster cherubs and gold leaf. The false ceiling was painted by Marc Chagall in 1964. Operas are performed both here and at the Opéra National de Paris Bastille (p106), but the ballet predominantly remains here.

The five-tiered auditorium is a riot of red velvet, plaster cherubs and gold leaf.

Must See

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2 1 The lavish façade is adorned with marble friezes and statuary. 2 The auditorium, which can accommodate 2,054 spectators, was designed so that the audience can see and be seen. 3 The ceiling of the Grand Foyer is decorated with paintings by Paul Baudry.

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The Grand Staircase, an awe-inspiring welcome to the building

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Opéra and Grands Boulevards

2= La Madeleine  G4 ⌂ Pl de la Madeleine 75008 q Madeleine # 9:30am–7pm daily ∑ eglise-lamadeleine.com

This church, dedicated to Mary Magdalene, is one of the bestknown buildings in Paris because of its prominent location and great size. It stands facing south to Place de la Concorde and is the architectural counterpoint of the Palais Bourbon (home of the French Parliament) across the river. It was started in 1764 but construction halted with the onset of the Revolution in 1789. After the battle of Jena (Iéna) in 1806, Napoleon decided to build a temple dedicated to military

glory and he commissioned Pierre Vignon to design it. The church was finished in 1842. A colonnade of Corinthian columns encircles the building and supports a sculptured frieze. The bas-reliefs on the bronze doors by Henri de Triqueti show the Ten Commandments. The interior is decorated with marble and gilt, and has some fine sculpture, notably François Rude’s Baptism of Christ. The church has a rich musical tradition; Gabriel Fauré and Camille Saint-Saëns were both organists here. Concerts, especially choral and organ recitals, take place regularly. Since the funeral of French music icon Johnny Hallyday was held here in 2017, the church has become a shrine to his fans.

Inside the Église de la Ste-Trinité, each chapel reveals rich paintings and decorations celebrating saints.

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Did You Know? The flower market at Place de la Madeleine has sold colourful bouquets since the early 1800s.

3 Place de la Madeleine  F4 ⌂ 75008 q Madeleine # Flower market: 8am– 7:30pm Mon–Sat

The Place de la Madeleine was created at the same time as the Madeleine church. It is a food lover’s paradise, with many shops specializing in truffles, champagne,

caviar and handmade chocolates. Fauchon, the luxury supermarket, is situated at No 30. The large house at No 9 Boulevard Malesherbes, just off Place Madeleine, is where Marcel Proust spent his childhood. To the east of La Madeleine are a small flower market and some excellently preserved 19th-century Art Nouveau public toilets.

4 Église de la Ste-Trinité  G3 ⌂ Place d’Estienne d’Orves 75009 q Trinitéd’Estienne d’Orves # 9:15am–7:45pm MonFri, 10am–7:30pm Sat, 10am–8pm Sun ∑ la triniteparis.com

Inspired by Renaissance-era Italian churches, this 19thcentury masterpiece was consecrated in 1913. The church, often referred to simply as La Trinité, is the monumental centrepiece of the busy Place d’Estienne d’Orves intersection, created by Baron Haussmann. As part of his grand project to

redesign Paris, Haussmann moved the church a few hundred metres from its original location. The church is beautifully decorated with a large belfry. Inside, each chapel reveals a rich series of paintings and decorations celebrating saints such as local favourites Geneviève and Vincent de Paul.

5"Théâtre Mogador  G3 ⌂ 25 Rue de Mogador 75009 q Trinitéd’Estienne d’Orves ∑ stage-entertainment.fr/ theatre

The Théâtre Mogador was built by London theatre mogul Alfred Butt. It was inaugurated in 1919 by future American president Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Numerous politicians were in town to negotiate the Treaty of Versailles after World War I, so taking in a show must have seemed like a good idea. It once hosted operettas and Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, but has also staged classic musicals such as Hello, Dolly! and Les Misérables. Now, this majestic threetier theatre produces mostly big-budget Broadway shows in French, such as The Lion KIng and Grease.

6\-= Galeries Lafayette  H4 ⌂ 40 Blvd Haussmann 75009 q Chaussée d’AntinLafayette # 9:30am– 8:30pm daily (11am–8pm Sun) ∑ haussmann. galerieslafayette.com

Dating back to 1893, this store is a Parisian icon and an

essential stop on any visit to the city. The massive complex includes men’s and women’s fashion, a homewares department and a gourmet food hall. At Christmas, a massive tree fills the Art Nouveau cupola, while the windows tell whimsical holiday stories popular with kids. Anyone can take the escalator to the rooftop terrace, where spectacular views of the city await. The store can become a madhouse during the biannual sales, the soldes, but it’s all part of the Galeries Lafayette experience.

EAT & DRINK La Petite Régalade The chef offers an innovative take on la pascade, a crêpelike dish filled with gourmet ingredients.  G4 ⌂ 14 Rue Daunou 75002 ¢ Sun ∑ lapetite regalade.com ¡¡¡

Chartier

This old workers’ canteen is still a budget favourite for French classics.  J4 ⌂ 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009 ∑ bouillonchartier.com. ¡¡¡

Harry’s New York Bar Birthplace of the Bloody Mary – and other cocktails – it’s tradition to make a stop here.  H4 ⌂ 5 Rue Daunou 75002 ∑ harrysbar.fr

The ornate high altar of the Église de la Madeleine

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memorial. The tiny garden contains cenotaphs to those who were buried here, including victims of the fireworks disaster at Marie and Louis’s wedding in 1770.

EXPERIENCE Opéra and Grands Boulevards

THE VICTIMS OF THE GUILLOTINE Along with Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, numerous other famous figures were buried where the Chapelle Expiatoire now stands. Among them were Murat’s murderer Charlotte Corday, writer and feminist Olympe de Gouges, Louis XV’s mistress Jeanne du Barry and Madame Roland.

7"' Chapelle Expiatoire  F4 ⌂ 29 Rue Pasquier 75008 q Madeleine § 01 42 65 35 80 # Apr– Sep: 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–6:30pm Tue–Sat; Oct– Mar: 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–5pm ∑ chapelleexpiatoire-paris.fr

King Louis XVIII dedicated this chapel in 1816 to the memory of his brother King Louis XVI

8 Église St-Augustin

and sister-in-law MarieAntoinette. The pair were buried in a cemetery here after being guillotined nearby at Place de la Concorde (p222). The mass grave, known as the Madeleine Cemetery, was one of four to hold the remains of guillotine victims. Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI were moved to the Basilica of St-Denis (p305) in the 19th century. The chapel merely hints at this turbulent history with a modest Neo-Classical

A statue of MarieAntoinette in the Chapelle Expiatoire

 F3 ⌂ 8 Ave César Caire 75008 q St-Augustin # 8:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–12:30pm & 2:30– 7:30pm Sat, 8:30am– 12:30pm & 4:30–8pm Sun ∑ saintaugustin.net

This church is located in one of Paris’s most exclusive neighbourhoods. Designed by Victor Baltard, the architect of Les Halles, and completed in 1868 at the intersection of sweeping new boulevards, the building initially drew criticism for its oversized dome and curious red turret. Large quantities of metal were used in the church’s construction, and its cast iron framework provides a decorative feature of the interior, complete with iron angels at the tops of the pillars.

9\-= Gare St-Lazare  G3 ⌂ 13 Rue d’Amsterdam 75008 q Gare Saint-Lazare

Europe’s second-busiest train station after the Gare du Nord, the Gare St-Lazare is probably the most celebrated in art. Opened in 1837, it sends trains to the station closest to Giverny, where Claude Monet painted his famous water lilies. The artist was just one of many 19th-century painters to immortalize the Saint-Lazare station in his works. Renowned painters Caillebotte and Manet also lived near the station, and their depictions of it hang in galleries around the world. The station has a shopping mall and a number of restaurants.

A rooftop view of the Art Nouveau Printemps department store

STAY W Paris – Opéra

10 \ - = Printemps  G4 ⌂ 64 Blvd Haussmann 75009 q Havre Caumartin # 9:35am–8pm Mon–Sat (to 8:45pm Thu), 11am–7pm Sun ∑ printemps.com

A stunning Art Nouveau palace dedicated to shopping, the Printemps department store dates back to 1865. High fashion fills the floors, and it feels slightly more elegant and refined than neighbour­ ing Galeries Lafayette. The brasserie under the massive stained­glass dome is a resplendent spot for lunch, while the rooftop café offers great views of the Sacré­Coeur.

11 " - = Musée Grévin  J4 ⌂ 10 Blvd Montmartre 75009 q Grands Boulevards # 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat, Sun & during school hols ∑ grevin-paris.com

This waxworks museum was founded in 1882 and is now a Paris landmark, on a par with Madame Tussauds in London. It contains tableaux of vivid

historical scenes (such as the arrest of Louis XVI), the Palais des Mirages (a giant walk­in kaleidoscope) and the Cabinet Fantastique, which features regular conjuring shows given by a live magician. Famous figures from the worlds of art, sport and politics are also on show, with new celebrities constantly replacing faded and forgotten stars.

12 Le Grand Rex  K4 ⌂ 1 Blvd Poissonnière 75002 q Bonne Nouvelle ∑ legrandrex.com

A national monument, as well as an innovative example of Art Deco architecture, Le Grand Rex, built in 1932, was long touted as Europe’s most opulent cinema, hosting many red­carpet events. One of the largest of its kind in Europe, the Grand Rex is a fading but beautiful symbol of the history of cinema. The auditorium has a starred ceiling and an enormous screen. Every December since 1954, the cinema has hosted the Féerie des Eaux, a family­film event featuring an on­stage water show.

Chic and modern, the W brand’s stylish hotel overlooking the Opéra National de Paris Garnier doesn’t disappoint.  H4 ⌂ 4 Rue Meyerbeer 75009 ∑ marriott.fr ¡¡¡

Hôtel Chopin

Hidden away in a 19th-century covered passage, this welllocated hotel has charm in spades.  J4 ⌂ 46 Passage Jouffroy 75009 ∑ hotelchopin-parisopera.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel Parister

Quiet and calm with contemporary décor, this is a wonderful retreat, with its own swimming pool, and very reasonably priced.  J3 ⌂ 19 Rue Saulnier 75009 ∑ hotelparister.com ¡¡¡

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A SHORT WALK

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest Metro Madeleine Time 15 minutes

It has been said that if you sit for long enough at the Café de la Paix (opposite the Opéra National de Paris Garnier) the whole world will pass by. During the day, the area is a mixture of commerce – France’s top three banks are based here – and tourism. A profusion of

shops, ranging from the chic, exclusive and expensive to popular department stores, lines the streets. In the evening, when the theatres and cinemas open their doors, the cafés along Boulevard des Capucines are just the place for people-watching.

The exquisite high altar of La Madeleine

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Did You Know? George Gershwin is said to have composed An American in Paris at Harry’s New York Bar.

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OPÉRA AND GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Locator Map For more detail see p170

With a mixture of styles ranging from classical to Baroque, the Opéra National de Paris Garnier of 1875 has come to symbolize the opulence of the Second Empire (p172). The world of opera is celebrated at the BibliothèqueMusée de l’Opéra.

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Harry’s New York Bar was named after Harry MacElhone, a bartender who bought the bar in 1913. Past regulars have included F Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway (p175).

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The iconic glass pyramid of the Louvre

LOUVRE AND LES HALLES Today the heart of the city, this area lay on the outskirts of Paris in the Middle Ages. Its vulnerable position led Philippe Auguste to build a defensive fortress here in 1190, around which grew up a dense urban district. In 1528, François I took up residence in the Louvre, marking the start of centuries of royal redevelopment and the construction of numerous grand buildings and gardens. The area remained affluent following the downfall of the monarchy in 1789, and is still home to many exclusive shops and luxury hotels. Les Halles, meanwhile, has much more humble origins. For 800 years, the “Belly of Paris” was the site of the central food market in the city. Housed from the late 19th century in 12 magnificent ironand-glass pavilions designed by Victor Baltard, the market was demolished in 1971 and transformed into a huge underground mall called the Forum des Halles. Deeply unpopular, it was redeveloped as part of a €1 billion infrastructure project and reopened in 2016. 181

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Did You Know? 1"'\-=

MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

Napoleon temporarily renamed the museum after himself and hung the Mona Lisa in his bedroom.

 H6 ⌂ Pl du Louvre q Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre @ 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95 W Châtelet-Les-Halles x Louvre # 9am–6pm Wed– Mon (to 9:45pm Wed & Fri) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec ∑ louvre.fr

First opened to the public in 1793 after the Revolution, the Louvre contains one of the most important art collections in the world. Constructed as a fortress in 1190 by King Philippe-Auguste to protect Paris against Viking raids, the Louvre lost its imposing keep during the reign of François I (1514–47), who replaced it with a Renaissance-style building. Thereafter, four centuries of French kings and emperors improved and enlarged it. A glass pyramid designed by I M Pei was added to the main courtyard in 1989, from which all of the galleries can be reached. The Louvre’s treasures can be traced back to the 16thcentury collection of François I, who purchased many Italian paintings, including the Mona Lisa (La Gioconda). At the time of Louis XIV’s reign (1643–1715) there were a mere 200 works, but donations and purchases augmented the collection and it has been continually enriched ever since. 184

GALLERY GUIDE There are eight departments over four floors: Near Eastern antiquities; Egyptian antiquities; Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities; Islamic art; sculptures; decorative arts; paintings; and prints and drawings.

Must See

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3 1 This sculptural spiral staircase forms part of the modern entrance hall designed by I M Pei. 2 The Marly Horses by Guillaume Coustou once stood near the Place de la Concorde.

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3 The Coronation of Napoleon by JacquesLouis David is an impressive 6.2 m (20½ ft) high by 9.8 m (32 ft) wide.

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EXPERIENCE Louvre and Les Halles

MONA LISA: WHY DO WE CARE?

St Bonaventura’s Body Lying in State (c 1629) by Francisco de Zurbarán

EUROPEAN PAINTING: 1200 TO 1850 Painting from northern Europe is well covered, with Flemish, Dutch, German and English works by artists including Jan van Eyck, Vermeer, Hans Holbein and J M W Turner. The Spanish collection tends towards depictions of the tragic side of life, although several portraits by Goya are in a lighter vein. The large collection of Italian paintings covers the

Acquired by King François I, this portrait of a mysterious woman was one of the first paintings displayed in the Louvre when the museum opened. For many years it was simply one da Vinci work among many, but that all changed when the painting was stolen in 1911. The much-publicized theft pushed the artwork into the public eye, with reproductions appearing around the world. Its popularity has not dwindled since.

period 1200 to 1800. Key figures of the Renaissance are here, including Giotto and Raphael. Several paintings by Leonardo da Vinci are as enchanting as his Mona Lisa. The French collection ranges from the 14th century to 1848. There are superb works by Jean Fouquet, Georges de la Tour and Jean Watteau, as well as J H Fragonard, master of the Rococo.

EUROPEAN SCULPTURE: 1100 TO 1850 Early Flemish and German sculpture in the collection has many masterpieces, including an unusual life-size nude figure of the penitent Mary Magdalene by Gregor Erhart (early 16th century). The French section opens with early Romanesque works, such as a Figure of Christ by a 12th-century Burgundian

Saint Mary Magdalene by Gregor Erhart (c 1515–20)

sculptor and a Head of St Peter. With its eight blackhooded mourners, the Tomb of Philippe Pot is one of the more unusual pieces. The works of Pierre Puget have been assembled inside the Cour Puget, while the Cour Marly houses the Marly Horses and other masterpieces of French sculpture. The Italian sculpture collection includes preRenaissance works by Duccio and Donatello, and later masterpieces such as Michelangelo’s Slaves and Cellini’s Nymph of Fontainebleau.

Must See

DECORATIVE ARTS

Serpentine stone plate (1st century/ 9th century AD)

The Louvre has well over 8,000 “decorative art” objects, including jewellery, silver and glassware, bronzes, porcelain, snuffboxes and armour. Many of these precious objects are from the Abbey of St-Denis (p305), where the kings of France were buried. The treasures include a serpentine stone plate from the 1st century AD with a 9th-century border of gold and precious stones, and the golden sceptre made for King Charles V in about 1380.

The French crown jewels include the coronation crowns of Louis XV and Napoleon, and the Regent, one of the purest diamonds in the world.

The French crown jewels include the coronation crowns of Louis XV and Napoleon, and the Regent, one of the purest diamonds in the world. The large collection of French furniture ranges from the 16th to the 19th centuries. On display are important pieces by prominent furnituremakers such as André-Charles Boulle, who was cabinetmaker to Louis XIV. In 2012, the Islamic Art Department opened in the Cour Visconti, with around 18,000 objects on display covering 3,000 years of history from three continents. The museum also has decorative art galleries dedicated to objects from the reign of Louis XIV and the 18th century.

NEAR EASTERN, EGYPTIAN, GREEK, ETRUSCAN AND ROMAN ANTIQUITIES The range of antiquities is impressive, with objects from the Neolithic period to the fall of the Roman Empire. Important works of Mesopotamian art include the seated figure of Ebih-iI, from 2400 BC, while the warlike Assyrians are represented by delicate carvings and a spectacular reconstruction of part of Sargon II’s (722–705 BC) palace. A fine example of Persian art is the enamelled brickwork depicting the king of Persia’s personal guard of archers (5th century BC). Most Egyptian art was made for the dead to take to the afterlife. One exquisite example is the tiny carved funeral chapel built for a high official in about 2500 BC. A special crypt dedicated to the god Osiris contains some colossal sarcophagi and mummified animals.

The department of Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities contains some exceptional pieces. The two most famous Greek statues in the Louvre, the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo, belong to the Hellenistic period (late 3rd to 2nd century BC), when more natural-looking human forms were first produced. The star of the Etruscan collection is the terracotta Sarcophagus of the Cenestian Couple, while the Roman section includes a bust of Agrippa and a splendid, powerful bronze head of Emperor Hadrian. Winged Victory of Samothrace (c 190 BC)

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EXPERIENCE Louvre and Les Halles

2 Palais-Royal  H6 ⌂ Pl du Palais-Royal 75001 q Palais-Royal ∑ domaine-palais-royal.fr

This former royal palace, closed to the public, has had a turbulent history. Starting out in the early 17th century as Richelieu’s Palais Cardinal, it passed to the Crown on his death and was the childhood home of Louis XIV. Under the control of the 18th-century royal dukes of Orléans, it was the scene of brilliant gatherings, as well as periods of debauchery and gambling. The cardinal’s theatre, where Molière had performed, burned down in 1763, but was replaced by the Comédie-Française. After the Revolution, the palace became a gambling house. In 1815, it was reclaimed by the future King Louis-Philippe, one of whose librarians was Alexandre Dumas. After being restored again between 1872 and 1876, the palace reverted to the state, and it now houses the Council of State, the supreme legal body for administrative

matters, and the Constitutional Council. Another wing of the palace is occupied by the Ministry of Culture.

3 Jardin du Palais-Royal  H5 ⌂ 6 Rue de Montpensier, Pl du PalaisRoyal 75001 q PalaisRoyal # Hours vary; check website ∑ domaine-palaisroyal.fr

The current garden is about one-third smaller than the original one, laid out by the royal gardener for Cardinal Richelieu in the 1630s. This is due to the construction, between 1781 and 1784, of 60 uniform houses bordering three sides of the square. Today, restaurants, art galleries and specialist shops line the square, which has numbered Jean Marais, Jean Cocteau and Colette among its famous former residents. The courtyard contains the controversial black-and-white striped stone columns that form conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s Les Deux Plateaux. The columns were installed

Daniel Buren’s columns in the courtyard of the Jardin du Palais-Royal

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in the pedestrianized Palais-Royal courtyard in 1986, despite vociferous opposition about their suitability for the space. Today, they are loved by children and adults alike.

4\-= Galerie Vivienne  J5 ⌂ 4 Rue des Petits Champs 75002 q Bourse, Pyramides # Generally 8:30am–8:30pm daily ∑ galerie-vivienne.com

The early 19th century saw the rise of fashionable covered passages, reminiscent of the souks explored during Napoleon’s conquests in North Africa. At the height of their popularity there were over 100 of them; they were the shopping malls of their day, well before the department stores came of age. Galerie Vivienne, built in 1823, was a particularly sumptuous example of such a covered passage. Its lovely décor has been restored, including its atrium ceilings and mosaic floor with patterns reminiscent of

Did You Know? Most of Paris’s covered passages disappeared during Haussmann’s renovations in the late 1800s.

decorations from Pompeii. It’s the perfect all-weather retreat for a glass of wine, a little bit of shopping in the elegant boutiques, or browsing in the Librairie Jousseaume second-hand bookshop.

5 Galerie Colbert  J5 ⌂ 4 Rue Vivienne 75002 q Bourse, Pyramides # Generally 9am–8pm daily

Unlike nearby Galerie Vivienne, the covered Galerie Colbert – which is just as exquisite as its neighbour and was also completed in 1823 – is no longer used for commercial purposes. The two passages have historically been in competition to be Paris’s favourite. It was in Galerie Colbert that composer Hector Berlioz, famous for La Symphonie Fantastique,

sang with crowds at the onset of the July Revolution in 1830. Today, it houses various institutions and parts of the University of Paris, all dedicated to the arts and cultural preservation. The passage is usually open to the public and is worth seeing for its lovely glass rotunda, with a statue of Eurydice beneath it. The passage can also be viewed from the adjacent brasserie Le Grand Colbert.

6"' Tour Jean Sans Peur  K5 ⌂ 20 Rue ÉtienneMarcel 75002 q ÉtienneMarcel, Sentier # 1:30– 6pm Wed–Sun ∑ tourjean sanspeur.wordpress.com

The Duc de Bourgogne feared reprisals after the Duc d’Orléans was assassinated on his orders in 1407. To protect himself, he had this 27-m (88-ft) tower built onto his home, the Hôtel de Bourgogne, and moved his bedroom up to the fourth floor (reached by a flight of 140 steps). The fine vaulted ceiling is decorated with stone carvings of oak leaves, hawthorn and hops, symbols of the Burgundys.

The lofty, light-filled interior of the elegant Galerie Vivienne

EAT Le Grand Colbert

This old-world brasserie still charms, and the traditional French food still pleases.  J5 ⌂ 2 Rue Vivienne 75002 ∑ legrandcolbert.fr ¡¡¡

Au Pied de Cochon

Onion soup is a staple of this Les Halles institution, which is open all night.  J6 ⌂ 6 Rue Coquillière 75001 ∑ pieddecochon.com ¡¡¡

Champeaux

Alain Ducasse’s casualyet-chic eatery under the new canopy at Forum des Halles serves French classics done just right.  K6 ⌂ La Canopée, Forum des Halles 75001 ∑ restaurantchampeaux.com ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Louvre and Les Halles

7 St-Eustache  J6 ⌂ 2 Impasse StEustache, Pl du Jour 75001 q Les Halles W ChâteletLes-Halles # 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7:15pm Sat, 9am–7:15pm Sun ∑ saint-eustache.org

With its Gothic plan and Renaissance decoration, St-Eustache is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. Its interior layout is modelled on Notre-Dame (p70), with five naves and side and radial chapels. The 105 years (1532– 1637) it took to complete the church saw the flowering of the Renaissance style, which is evident in the arches, pillars and columns. The stainedglass windows in the chancel are created from cartoons by Philippe de Champaigne. Molière was buried in this church; and the Marquise de Pompadour, official mistress of Louis XV, was baptized here, as was Cardinal Richelieu. Don’t miss a chance to attend one of the regular organ recitals that take place here.

8"Forum des Halles  J5 ⌂ 101 Porte Berger 75001 q Les Halles, Châtelet W Châtelet-LesHalles # Complex: 10am– 8:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am–7pm Sun; restaurants & cinemas: 9am–11:30pm daily  ∑ forumdeshalles.com

Known simply as Les Halles and built amid controversy on the site of a famous produce market, this vast complex, much of it underground, is covered by an undulating glass-and-steel roof known as “La Canopée”. Shops and restaurants abound,

The manicured grounds of the Jardin des Tuileries

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and there are two multiscreen cinemas, a gym and swimming pool, and a cinema resource centre, the Forum des Images. Here, you can choose from thousands of cinema, television and amateur films, many featuring footage of the city of Paris. Above ground are peaceful gardens, pergolas and mini-pavilions.

northwest turret contains the oldest bell in Paris, dating from 1331. St-Merry was the wealthy parish church of the Lombard moneylenders, who gave their name to the nearby Rue des Lombards. Guided tours usually take place after concerts on the first and third Sundays of the month.

Forum des Images ⌂ 2 Rue du Cinéma # 5:30– 9pm Tue & Thu, 2–9pm Wed, 4–9pm Fri, 2–9pm Sat & Sun ∑ forumdesimages.fr

10 " ' Tour St-Jacques

9' St-Merry  K7 ⌂ 76 Rue de la Verrerie 75004 q Hôtel de Ville # 3–7pm Mon–Sat (Nov–Mar: 2–6pm) ∑ saintmerry.org

The site of this church dates back to the 7th century. St Médéric, the abbot of St-Martin d’Autun, was buried here at the beginning of the 8th century; he died while on pilgrimage in Paris. Construction of the church – in the Flamboyant Gothic style – took place in 1500–1550. The west front is especially rich in decoration, and the

 K7 ⌂ Square de la Tour St-Jacques 75004 q Châtelet, Hôtel de Ville # Gardens: year-round; tower: by tour only, Jun– Nov: Sat & Sun ∑ desmots etdesarts.com

This late-Gothic tower, dating from 1523, is all that remains of a church that was a rendezvous for pilgrims setting out on long journeys. The church was destroyed after the Revolution. Earlier, Blaise Pascal, the 17th-century mathematician, physicist, philosopher and writer, used the tower for experiments. Queen Victoria passed by on her state visit in 1854, giving her name to the nearby Avenue Victoria. The tower can be visited in the summer; book ahead online.

Statues set into the façade of the Gothic church of St-Merry

11 Fontaine des Innocents  K6 ⌂ Pl Joachim-duBellay 75001 q Les Halles W Châtelet-Les-Halles

This carefully restored Renaissance fountain is a popular meeting place and a Les Halles landmark. It stands in the Place Joachimdu-Bellay, the area’s main crossroads. Erected in 1549 on the Rue St-Denis, it was moved to its present location in the 18th century, when the square was constructed on the site of a former graveyard.

Originally set into a wall, the fountain had only three sides so a fourth had to be constructed. It is decorated with mythological figures.

w Jardin des Tuileries  G6 ⌂ Pl de la Concorde 75001 q Tuileries, Concorde # Apr– Sep: 7am– 9pm (to 11pm Jun–Aug); Oct–Mar: 7:30am–7:30pm

Once belonging to the old Palais des Tuileries, these gardens form part of the landscaped area between the Louvre and the ChampsÉlysées. They were laid out in the 17th century by royal gardener André Le Nôtre, and later filled with striking sculptures. A staggering 125,000 plants are replanted annually.

STAY Hotel Regina Louvre

Next to the Louvre, this hotel welcomes those seeking old-world charm and high-end service, with some rooms boasting views of the Eiffel Tower.  H6 ⌂ 2 Place des Pyramides 75001 ∑ regina-hotel.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel Thérèse

A chic boutique-hotel alternative to the bigname hotels in the area, with individually decorated rooms.  H5 ⌂ 5 Rue Thérèse 75001 ∑ hoteltherese.fr ¡¡¡

Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal

Tucked behind the Palais-Royal and overlooking its garden, this luxury property is central but has a secluded feel.  H6 ⌂ 4 Rue de Valois 75001 ∑ grandhoteldupalais royal.com ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Louvre and Les Halles

JEU DE PAUME Nobles used to play a version of handball, jeu de paume, in the former royal court that today houses the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume. French players would yell “tenez” or “take it” to their opponents. As the game evolved, the word did, too, and the English began to call it tennis, or real tennis, and used rackets instead of their hands. Later, the Jeu de Paume became a storehouse during World War II, where the Nazis stashed stolen art. Those works deemed offensive, for example many Picasso and Dalí paintings, were burned in front of it in 1942.

13 " ' = Musée de l’Orangerie  F6 ⌂ Jardin des Tuileries, Pl de la Concorde 75001 q Concorde # 9am–6pm Wed–Mon, advance booking required ¢ 1 May, 14 Jul am & 25 Dec ∑ museeorangerie.fr

Claude Monet’s crowning work, the water lily series, or Nymphéas, can be found here. The series was painted in his garden at Giverny, near Paris, and presented to the public in 1927. These superb large-scale canvases are complemented well by the outstanding Walter-Guillaume collection of artists of the École de Paris, from the late-Impressionist era to the inter-War period. This is a remarkable concentration of masterpieces, including a room of dramatic works by Soutine and some 14 works by Cézanne – still lifes, portraits (Madame Cézanne) and landscapes, such as Dans 192

Stained glass at St-Germain l’Auxerrois

le Parc du Château Noir. Pierre-Auguste Renoir is represented by 27 canvases, including Les Fillettes au Piano (Young Girls at the Piano). There are early Picassos, works by Henri Rousseau – notably La Carriole du Père Junier (Old Junier’s Cart) – and Matisse, and a portrait of Paul Guillaume by Modigliani. All are bathed in the natural light that flows through the windows. Temporary exhibitions are shown on the lower ground floor.

14 " ' - = Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume  F5 ⌂ Jardin des Tuileries, 1 Pl de la Concorde 75008 q Concorde # Opening hours are subject to change; check website ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec and in between exhibitions ∑ jeudepaume.org

The Jeu de Paume – or real tennis court – was built by Napoleon III in 1851. When real (royal) tennis was replaced in popularity by lawn tennis, the court was used to exhibit art. Eventually, an Impressionist museum was founded here. In 1986, the collection moved to the Musée d’Orsay (p238). Renovated in 2020–21, the Jeu de Paume now shows exhibitions of contemporary photography and film and video installations from both established and emerging artists.

15 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel  H6 ⌂ Pl du Carrousel 75001 q Palais-Royal

Built by Napoleon in 1806–8 as an entrance to the former Palais des Tuileries, this vast pink marble arch, inspired by ancient Roman triumphal arches, was once topped by the so-called Horses of St Mark’s, which Napoleon had looted from Venice’s St Mark’s Cathedral. The original sculptures were returned to Venice in 1815 after Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Waterloo and replaced by copies.

16 ' St-Germain l’Auxerrois  J6 ⌂ 2 Pl du Louvre 75001 q Louvre, PontNeuf # 9am–7pm daily ∑ saintgermainauxerrois.fr

This church has been built in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic

Did You Know? The façade of St-Germain l’Auxerrois is mirrored by the adjacent town hall.

styles. The first church on the site was constructed in the 12th century, of which only the foundations of the bell tower remain. The splendid rose stained-glass windows date from the Renaissance period. After the Valois Court decamped to the Louvre in the 14th century, this became the favoured church of kings. The church’s many historical associations include the horrific St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre on 24 August 1572, the eve of the royal wedding of Henri of Navarre and Marguerite de Valois. Thousands of Huguenots who had been lured to Paris for the wedding were murdered as the church bell tolled. Later, after the Revolution, the church was used as a barn and as a police station. Despite many restorations it remains a jewel of Gothic

architecture. Check the website for details of the monthly guided tours.

u= Place Vendôme  G5 ⌂ 75001 q Tuileries

Perhaps the best example of 18th-century elegance in the city, the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart’s stately square was begun in 1698. The original plan was to house academies and embassies behind the arcaded façades. However, bankers moved in and created opulent homes. Miraculously, the square has remained virtually intact, and is home to jewellers and bankers. Among the famous, Frédéric Chopin died here in 1848 at No 12, and César Ritz established his luxury hotel at the turn of the 20th century at No 15.

18 ' \ = Ô Château  J5 ⌂ 68 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 75001 q Louvre-Rivoli, Étienne Marcel # 4pm–midnight Mon–Sat ∑ o-chateau.com

With 50 wines served by the glass, this wine-tasting bar in the heart of Les Halles is one of the best places to learn about your soon-to-be favourite vintages (p53). You can stop in for a few drinks, or take a class or even a trip. They can organize outings to Champagne for tastings or prepare a multi-course meal served in one of their vaulted dining rooms. A sommelier pairs each dish with wine, explaining the particularities of French viticulture. Englishspeakers are catered for, so there’s no chance of losing anything in translation.

The Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume

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A SHORT WALK

Distance 2 km (1.25 miles) Nearest Metro Pyramides Time 20 minutes

Elegant squares, formal gardens, street arcades and courtyards give this part of Paris its special character. Monuments to monarchy and the arts coexist with contemporary luxury: sumptuous hotels, world-famous restaurants, fashion emporiums and jewellers of international renown. Combine a walk around the area with a visit to the world-famous Louvre, and end the day with a well-deserved sit-down in the Jardin des Tuileries.

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St-Roch is a remarkably long 17th-century church, unusually set on a north-south axis, and a treasure house of religious art.

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Metro Palais-Royal, Musée du Louvre

Home to French kings for almost four centuries, the Musée du Louvre is now host to one of the world’s greatest art collections (p184).

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The iconic Eiffel Tower, illuminated at night

EIFFEL TOWER AND INVALIDES On the Left Bank of the Seine, this quarter in the 7th arrondissement is monumental in scale. The construction of the Hôtel des Invalides in the late 17th century brought with it the urbanization of the surrounding area, and the neighbourhood quickly became popular with the city’s nobles, who wanted more space for their palaces. Many wealthy residents of the Marais moved here in the early 18th century, building the aristocratic town houses that line the Rue de Varenne and Rue de Grenelle. Some of these were destroyed during the Revolution, while others were subsequently converted into national institutions, such as the Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon, or embassies. The quarter has long had a strong military connection as the home of the École Militaire. In 1889, the school’s former parade ground, the Champ-de-Mars, was chosen as the site of an Exposition Universelle to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Revolution. The centrepiece of that exhibition, the Eiffel Tower, is today the main draw for most visitors to the area. 197

Alma-Marceau Alma-Marceau PLACE DE L’ALMA

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EXPERIENCE Eiffel Tower and Invalides

EIFFEL TOWER  B7 ⌂ Quai Branly and Champ-de-Mars q Bir Hakeim @ 42, 69, 72, 82, 87 to Champ-de-Mars W Champ-de-Mars–Tour Eiffel # Sep–Jun: 9:30am–11:45pm daily (6:30pm for stairs); Jul–Aug: 9am–12:45am ¢ 14 Jul ∑ toureiffel.paris

An impressive feat of engineering and the most distinctive symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower stands 324 m (1,063 ft) tall and offers unrivalled views over the city. Originally built to impress visitors to the 1889 Exposition Universelle, the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) was meant to be a temporary addition to the Paris skyline. Built by the engineer Gustave Eiffel, it was fiercely decried by 19th-century aesthetes – the author Guy de Maupassant frequently ate lunch at the tower as it was the only place he could avoid seeing it. The world’s tallest structure until 1931, when New York’s Empire State Building was completed, the tower is now an icon of Paris and attracts 7 million visitors a year. The glassfloored first level houses a modern visitors’ centre and an interactive museum chronicling the history of the tower.

THE TOWER IN FIGURES 276 m (905 ft): the height of the viewing gallery on the third level 1,665: the number of steps to the third level 2.5 million: the number of rivets holding the tower together 7 cm (2.5 in): the maximum amount that the tower ever sways 10,100 tonnes: the tower’s total weight 60 tonnes: the amount of paint needed to decorate the ironwork 18 cm (7 in): how far the top can move in a curve under the effect of heat

The view from the tower, ranging up to 72 km (45 miles)

The Eiffel Tower under construction in April 1888, less than halfway complete

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Did You Know? Franz Reichelt died in 1912 after attempting to fly from the parapet using a modified cape as wings.

A view of the Eiffel Tower from the Jardins du Trocadéro (p220)

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MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLY-JACQUES CHIRAC  C6 ⌂ 37 Quai Branly q Alma-Marceau, Bir-Hakeim, léna @ 42, 63, 72, 80, 82, 92 W Pont de l’Alma # 10:30am–7pm Tue– Sun (to 10pm Thu) ¢ Mon (except during all school hols besides summer hols), 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ quaibranly.fr

This rich collection of artifacts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas resides in a striking building that uses surrounding greenery as a natural backdrop to the art. Widely regarded as former President Jacques Chirac’s legacy to Paris’s cultural scene, Quai Branly has proved a major tourist pull since it opened in 2006. The stylish Jean Nouvel building displays 3,500 exhibits from the French state’s vast non-Western art collection, one of the world’s most prolific. Items include

GALLERY GUIDE Tickets are bought outside the main building. Inside, a ramp around a large glass tower displaying musical instruments leads to the main collection level, where a suggested route passes through four colour-coded zones of Oceania, Asia, Africa and the Americas. Three mezzanine galleries house temporary exhibitions.

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an array of African instruments, Gabonese masks, Aztec statues and painted animal hides from North America. Outside, the grounds offer visitors breathing space, and in summer the museum’s 500-seat auditorium opens onto an outdoor theatre for music and dance. The rooftop restaurant boasts breathtaking views.

Must See HIDDEN GEM

Key Object The Africa collection houses a striking 1.91 m (6 ft 3 in) androgynous wooden statue from Mali, which combines a regal male head with the breasts of a woman.

A sculpted female figure on which tribal men would hang ritual offerings The museum’s eye-catching exterior, with a glass wall and thickets of trees in the surrounding gardens

Jean Nouvel’s elegant building, an exhibit in itself from the inside and out (inset)

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LES INVALIDES EXPERIENCE Eiffel Tower and Invalides

 E7 ⌂ 6 Blvd des Invalides, Esplanade des Invalides q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne @ 28, 63, 69, 80, 82, 83, 87, 92, 93 to Les Invalides W Invalides x Tour Eiffel

This sizeable ensemble of monumental buildings is one of the most impressive sights in Paris. The complex takes its name from the imposing Hôtel des Invalides, built for wounded soldiers of the late 17th century, and is today home to a fascinating assortment of military museums. At its heart is the Dôme des Invalides, the final resting place of arguably the greatest French soldier of all, Napoleon Bonaparte. 1 Hôtel des Invalides # 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Tue for temporary exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-armee.fr

Founded by Louis XIV, the Hôtel des Invalides was France’s first military hospital. Designed by Libéral Bruand

and completed in 1675, it became home to French war veterans and disabled soldiers who, prior to its inauguration, had been reduced to begging on the streets. Today, the classical façade is one of the most impressive sights in Paris, with its four storeys, the bank of cannon in the forecourt, garden and tree-lined esplanade that stretches to the Seine. Part of the building is still home to veterans. The south side leads to St-Louisdes-Invalides, the soldiers’ church, which backs on to the magnificent Dôme des Invalides of Jules HardouinMansart (p206). The dome was regilded in 1989.

The splendid Hôtel des Invalides seen from Pont Alexandre III

2 Musée de l’Armée ⌂ 129 Rue de Grenelle (wheelchair access at 6 Blvd des Invalides) # 10am– 6pm daily (to 9pm Tue for temporary exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-armee.fr

This is one of the world’s most comprehensive museums of military history, with exhibits ranging from the Stone Age to the final days of World War II. Situated in the northeast refectory, the Ancient Armoury department is worth visiting for the collection on display, one of the largest in the world, as much as for the 17th-century murals by Joseph Parrocel adorning the walls. These celebrate Louis XIV’s military conquests. The life of Charles de Gaulle and his role in World War II are

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The Cour d’Honneur is still used for military parades. Seurre’s statue of Napoleon, known as the Little Corporal, stands above the south side.

The Invalides gardens were designed by de Cotte in 1704 and are lined by bronze cannons from the 17th and 18th centuries.

3 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération

Map of the Invalides complex

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documented in the Historial de Gaulle, a film and interac­ tive multimedia attraction (closed Mon). The Département Moderne is in two parts: the first (1648–1792) covers the reign of Louis XIV, while the second (1792–1871) displays a collection of Napoleon’s mementos. Items include his campaign bed and his stuffed dog.

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and was bestowed on those who made an outstanding contribution to the final victory in World War II. Among the recipients of the honour are French civilians and members of the armed forces, plus a number of overseas leaders such as King George VI, Winston Churchill and Dwight Eisenhower.

4 Musée des Plans-Reliefs

# 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Tue for temporary exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ ordre delaliberation.fr

# 10am–6pm daily (Oct– Mar: to 5pm) ¢ 1st Mon of month (except Jul, Aug, Sep), 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ museedesplansreliefs. culture.fr

This museum is devoted to the wartime Free French and their leader, General Charles de Gaulle, as well as to the Resistance movement within France and the Resistance fighters who were deported. The Order of Liberation was created by De Gaulle in 1940. It is France’s highest honour

The detailed models of French forts and fortified towns, some dating back to Louis XIV’s reign, were considered top secret until the 1950s, when they were put on public display. They were created between the reigns of Louis XIV and Napoléon III in order to plan town defences and

plot artillery positions. Out of a total of 260, around 100 of these three­dimensional maps are on display in the museum. The oldest model is that of Perpignan, dating from 1686. It shows the for­ tifications drawn up by the 17th­century military architect Vauban, who built the defences for several French towns, including Briançon.

5 St-Louis-des-Invalides # 10am–6pm daily (Nov– Mar: to 5pm) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-armee.fr

The “soldiers’ church” was built in 1679–1708 by Jules Hardouin­Mansart from original designs by Libéral Bruand. The imposing but stark interior is decorated with banners seized in battle. The first performance of Berlioz’s Requiem was given on the fine 17th­century organ in 1837, with an orchestra accompanied by a battery of outside artillery. 205

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# 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Tue for temporary exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-armee.fr

Built in the French Classical style on the orders of Louis XIV, this ornate church houses the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and a host of other great French military men. Its magnificent dome is a landmark on the city skyline and glistens as much now as it did when the Sun King had it first gilded in 1715. The Dôme des Invalides was designed in 1676 by Jules Hardouin-Mansart for the exclusive use of Louis XIV and for the location of royal tombs. Slotted among the existing buildings of the Invalides military complex, the resulting masterpiece complements the surrounding structures and is one of the greatest examples of 17th-century French architecture. After Louis XIV’s death, plans to bury the royal family in the church were abandoned, and it became a monument to Bourbon glory. In 1840, Louis-Philippe decided to install Napoleon’s remains in the crypt, and the addition of the tombs of Vauban, Marshal Foch and other figures of military prominence have since turned this church into a French military memorial. Charles de la Fosse’s circular painting (1692) on the ceiling of the dome, showing the Glory of Paradise, with Saint Louis presenting his sword to Christ

NAPOLEON’S RETURN King Louis-Philippe decided to bring the Emperor Napoleon’s body back from St Helena as a gesture of reconciliation to the Republican and Bonapartist parties contesting his regime. The Dôme des Invalides, with its historical and military associations, was an obvious choice for Napoleon’s final resting place. His body was encased in six coffins and finally placed in the crypt in 1861, at the culmination of a grand ceremony which was attended by Napoleon III.

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Did You Know? The dome stands 107 m (351 ft) high and was first gilded in 1706.

The church with its glittering dome, which required 12 kg (26 lb) of gold to re-gild it in 1989

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EXPERIENCE Eiffel Tower and Invalides

4 École Militaire  D8 ⌂ 1 Pl Joffre 75007 § 01 80 50 14 00 q École Militaire

Founded in 1751 to educate 500 sons of impoverished officers, the Royal Military Academy was designed by architect Jacques-Ange Gabriel. The central pavilion, a magnificent example of the French classical style, is graced with eight Corinthian pillars and a quadrangular dome. The ornate interior is decorated in Louis XVI style; of main interest are the chapel and a Gabriel-designed wrought-iron banister on the main staircase. One of the academy’s early cadets was Napoleon The grandiose classical façade of the École Militaire

Bonaparte, whose passing-out report stated that “he could go far if the circumstances are right”. Today, the academy is used as a cavalry training ground and isn’t generally open to the public.

5"'-= Musée Rodin  E7 ⌂ 79 Rue de Varenne 75007 q Varenne # 10am– 6:30pm Tue–Sun, advance booking recommended ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-rodin.fr

Auguste Rodin, widely regarded as one of the greatest French sculptors of the 19th century, lived and worked in the elegant 18th-century Hôtel Biron from 1908 until his death in 1917. In return for a state-owned flat

Auguste Rodin’s famed sculpture The Three Shades at the Musée Rodin

and studio, Rodin agreed to leave his work to the nation. Some 300 works from Rodin’s collection can now be seen in the museum. The attractive grounds consist of a rose garden, an ornamental garden and a relaxation area with benches, and contain some of Rodin’s most celebrated sculptures: The Thinker, The Burghers of Calais, The Gates of Hell and Balzac. Spread across 18 rooms, the museum combines a chronology of

EAT Café Constant

Classic and reasonable French fare near the Eiffel Tower – a rarity.  D7 ⌂ 139 Rue St-Dominique 75007 ∑ maisonconstant.com ¡¡¡

David Toutain

This relaxed one-star Michelin experience is great value.

The market street Rue Cler, with its many fine food shops

Rodin’s creative development with a thematic exploration of his workshop. It has even re­created a space exactly as it was when Rodin lived and worked here. The outdoor café makes a lovely spot for a drink in warmer weather.

6\-= Rue Cler  D7 ⌂ 75007 q École Militaire, La TourMaubourg

This is a typically charming Parisian market street, albeit one chic enough for the 7th arrondissement, the richest in Paris. The bulk of senior civil servants, wealthy expatriates,

Did You Know? If laid end to end, the city’s 2,100 km (1,300 miles) of sewers would stretch from Paris to Istanbul.

business leaders and many diplomats live in this resi­ dential neighbourhood. Most of the food and drink stores – selling not just fresh produce but also cheese, chocolates, ice creams, patisseries and fancy teas – are gathered along the cobblestoned stretch south of Rue de Grenelle.

7"'= Musée des Égouts  D6 ⌂ Pont Alma, opposite 93 Quai d’Orsay 75007 § 01 53 68 27 81 q Alma-Marceau W Pont de l’Alma # Opening hours may vary; check website ¢ 1 Jan, 2 weeks Jan, 25 Dec

One of Baron Haussmann’s finest achievements, the majority of Paris’s sewers (égouts) date from the Second Empire (1852–70). In the 20th century, surprisingly the sewers became a popular attraction. The Musée des Égouts allows visitors to tour a small area around the Quai d’Orsay entrance. Display boards explain the history of Paris’s water supply and waste management. It is a good idea to book guided tours in advance.

 E6 ⌂ 29 Rue Surcouf 75007 ¢ Sat, Sun ∑ davidtoutain.com ¡¡¡

Arpège

Alain Passard’s threestar restaurant is a worthwhile treat.  F7 ⌂ 84 Rue de Varenne 75007 ¢ Sat, Sun ∑ alain-passard.com ¡¡¡

STAY Hôtel de Varenne

A hotel with refined décor in the chic 7th arrondissement.  F7 ⌂ 44 Rue de Bourgogne 75007 ∑ hoteldevarenne.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel 7 Eiffel

A modern option near the Eiffel Tower.  D7 ⌂ 17 bis Rue Amélie 75007 ∑ hotel7eiffel-paris.com ¡¡¡

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8\-= Berges de Seine

EXPERIENCE Eiffel Tower and Invalides

 D6 ⌂ Quai d’Orsay 75007 q Assemblée Nationale, Invalides

In 2013, this former busy roadway along the river bank was revamped for pedestrians, turning it into one of Paris’s loveliest promenades. As well as offering spectacular views of the Louvre, Jardin des Tuileries and other monuments along the way, the 2.3-km (1½-mile) walkway is studded with activities for children, like mini playgrounds, climbing walls and floating gardens. The promenade also has pétanque courts, an athletics track, a fitness course and

Did You Know? The Pont de la Concorde in front of the Assemblée Nationale was built using stones from the Bastille.

The Assemblée Nationale on the Left Bank of the Seine

Vélib’ bikes (p313). Cyclists and joggers zigzag between pedestrians taking advantage of a traffic-free stroll. There are cafés and restaurants (some with board games to borrow) both on land and aboard boats, especially around Pont Alexandre III. Picnickers and evening revellers gather on the banks during the summer, making the Berges de Seine one of the liveliest places for evening tipples on the Left Bank.

9'= Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon  F6 ⌂ 126 Rue de l’Université 75007 q Assemblée Nationale W Invalides ∑ assembleenationale.fr

Built in 1722 for the Duchesse de Bourbon, daughter of Louis XIV, the Palais-Bourbon was confiscated during the Revolution. It has been home to the lower house of the French Parliament since 1830.

During World War II, the palace became the Nazi administration’s seat of government. The grand Neo-Classical façade with its fine columns was added in 1806, partly to mirror the façade of La Madeleine church facing it across the Seine (p174). The adjacent Hôtel de Lassay is the residence of the president of the National Assembly. Group tours can be organized for a maximum of 50 people on the invitation of a member of parliament, with several months’ prior notice.

0 Ste-Clotilde  F7 ⌂ 23B Rue las Cases 75007 q Solférino, Varenne, Invalides # 9am– 7:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am– 8pm Sat & Sun. Times vary for Jul & Aug; check website ¢ Non-religious public hols ∑ sainte-clotilde.com

Designed by the German architect François-Christian Gau and the first of its kind

The pretty Champ-deMars gardens at the foot of the Eiffel Tower

Picnickers and evening revellers gather on the banks during the summer, making the Berges de Seine one of the liveliest places for evening tipples on the Left Bank. to be built in Paris, this church, in Neo-Gothic style, was inspired by the mid-19thcentury enthusiasm for the Middle Ages, made fashionable by such writers as Victor Hugo. The church is noted for its imposing twin towers, visible from across the Seine, and there are sculptures of the Stations of the Cross inside. The composer César Franck was the organist here.

qChamp-de-Mars  C7 ⌂ 75007 q École Militaire W Champ de Mars–Tour Eiffel

The gardens stretching from the Eiffel Tower to the École Militaire were originally a parade ground for the officer cadets of the École Militaire (p208). The area

has since been used for horseracing, hot-air balloon ascents and the mass celebrations for 14 July, the anniversary of the Revolution. The first Bastille Day ceremony was held in 1790 in the presence of a glum, captive Louis XVI. Vast exhibitions were held here in the late 19th century, including the 1889 World Fair for which the Eiffel Tower was erected. Le Mur de la Paix, Clara Halter and JeanMichel Wilmotte’s symbolic monument to world peace, stands at one end. The park is popular with Parisian families and tourists, who come here to relax, walk their dogs (it is one of the few parks in Paris where dogs are allowed) and participate in the numerous activities for children, which include playgrounds, pony rides, puppet shows and a carousel. There is also an outdoor café.

The ever-busy Avenue des Champs-Élysées

CHAMPSÉLYSÉES AND CHAILLOT This area radiates wealth and power, but it was once little more than open fields lying on the outskirts of Paris. In 1616, Marie de Medici, wife of Henri IV, commissioned a tree-lined approach road through here to the Tuileries Palace, which was expanded in the late 17th century by Louis XIV’s landscape designer, André Le Nôtre. The avenue was christened Champs-Élysées in the 18th century, and became a fashionable location for the nobility to build grand town houses. The nearby Chaillot quarter, however, remained just a village before becoming absorbed into the city of Paris in the 19th century. Subsequently bestowed with similarly wide avenues and grand mansions, it became one of the city’s most elegant neighbourhoods. The districts’ allure has not faded, and today they are home to numerous embassies and haute couture fashion houses, as well as five-star hotels and fine restaurants. 213

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CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND CHAILLOT Must Sees 1 Arc de Triomphe

2 Palais de Chaillot

Experience More 3 Cité de l’Architecture et

o Cimetière de Passy

p Musée d’Art Moderne

de la Ville de Paris

a Palais de Tokyo

du Patrimoine

Eat

4 Musée de l’Homme

1 Astrance

6 Jardins du Trocadéro

3 Relais de l’Entrecôte

5 Musée National de la Marine 7 Aquarium de Paris

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Stay

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0 Le Pavillon des Lettres

30 shields just below the Arc’s roof each bear the name of a victorious Napoleonic battle.

The golden tones of the arch’s stonework, highlighted by the sunset

216

Must See 1"'=

ARC DE TRIOMPHE  C4 ⌂ Pl Charles de Gaulle q / W Charles de Gaulle-Étoile @ 22, 30, 31, 52, 73, 92 to Pl Charles de Gaulle # 10am–10:45pm daily ¢ am only 8 May, 14 Jul, 11 Nov; all day 1 Jan, 1 May, 20 Sep, 25 Dec ∑ paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr

Situated at the heart of Place Charles de Gaulle, overlooking the Champs-Élysées, the Arc de Triomphe was commissioned by Napoleon to celebrate France’s military might. The exterior is adorned with sculptures depicting various battles, while the viewing platform at the top affords one of the best views in Paris. After his greatest victory, the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805, Napoleon promised his men, “You shall go home beneath triumphal arches.” The first stone of what was to become the world’s most famous triumphal arch was laid the following year, but disruptions to architect Jean Chalgrin’s plans and the demise of Napoleonic power delayed the completion of this monumental building until 1836. Standing 50 m (164 ft) high, the Arc is now the customary starting point for victory celebrations and parades. NUPTIAL PARADE The twelve avenues radiating from Place Charles de Gaulle

The symbolic torch at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

1806

1815

1919

Napoleon commissions Chalgrin to build the triumphal Arc following the Battle of Austerlitz in the previous year

Napoleon abdicates after defeat at the Battle of Waterloo, causing work on the Arc to cease

Victory parade of Allied armies through the Arc to celebrate the end of World War I

▼

Timeline

Napoleon divorced Josephine in 1809 because she was unable to bear him children. A diplomatic marriage was arranged in 1810 with Marie-Louise, daughter of the Austrian emperor. Napoleon was determined to impress his bride by passing through the Arc on their way to the wedding, but work had barely started, so Chalgrin built a full-scale mock-up of the arch on the site for the couple to go through.

1836

1944

King Louis-Philippe completes the Arc during the Bourbon Restoration

▲ De Gaulle leads the crowd from the Arc following the liberation of Paris

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2-=

PALAIS DE CHAILLOT  B6 ⌂ Pl du Trocadéro 75016 q Trocadéro

The Palais, with its huge, curved colonnaded wings each culminating in an immense pavilion, was designed in Neo-Classical style for the 1937 World Fair (Exposition Universelle) by Léon Azéma, Louis-Hippolyte Boileau and Jacques Carlu. Today it houses three major museums: the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, the Musée de l’Homme and the Musée National de la Marine. The present Palais replaced the Trocadéro palace built for the World Fair of 1878. It is adorned with sculptures and bas-reliefs, and on the walls of the pavilions are gold inscriptions by the poet and essayist Paul Valéry. The parvis, or square, situated between the two pavilions is decorated with large bronze sculptures and ornamental pools. On the terrace in front of the parvis stand two bronzes, Apollo by Henri Bouchard and Hercules by Albert Pommier. Stairways lead from the terrace to the Théâtre National de Chaillot, which, since World War II, has enjoyed huge fame for its avant-garde productions. 218

One of the galleries in the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (p220)

Must See

THÉÂTRE NATIONAL DE CHAILLOT In addition to being a prestigious performance venue, the Théâtre National de Chaillot has also played an important role in world history. It was here that the Universal Declaration of Human Rights was signed in 1948.

View of the Palais de Chaillot from the Eiffel Tower

Exhibits from the anthropology and ethnology collection of the Musée de l’Homme (p220)

PICTURE PERFECT

Eiffel Tower

The bronze Hercules statue on the terrace

The palace’s terrace boasts magnificent views of the Eiffel Tower. Head here to get a panoramic shot of the Iron Lady.

219

EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Champs-Élysées and Chaillot

3"-= Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine  B6 ⌂ Palais de Chaillot, Pl du Trocadéro 75016 q Trocadéro # 11am–7pm Wed–Mon (to 9pm Thu) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ citedelarchitecture.fr

In the east wing of the Palais de Chaillot, this museum charts the development of French architecture through the ages. Among the unmissable displays is the Galerie des Moulages, which covers the period from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. Here, you will find three-dimensional models of great French cathedrals, such as Chartres. Also worth a look is the Galerie d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine, with a reconstruction of an apartment designed by Le Corbusier.

4"\-= Musée de l’Homme  A6 ⌂ Palais de Chaillot, Pl du Trocadéro 75016 q Trocadéro # 11am–7pm Wed–Mon ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec ∑ musee delhomme.fr

Situated in the west wing of the Chaillot palace, this museum

traces the process of human evolution, from prehistoric times to the present, through anthropological exhibits from around the world. It houses one of the world’s most comprehensive prehistoric collections. Displays show how humans have adapted to the environment, and there is also a focus on the development of language and culture.

5"-= Musée National de la Marine  B6 ⌂ Palais de Chaillot, Pl du Trocadéro 75016 q Trocadéro ¢ For renovation until 2022 ∑ musee-marine.fr

This museum recounts French maritime history from the days of the royal wooden warships to today’s aircraft carriers and nuclear submarines through wonderfully exact scale models (most of them two centuries old), mementos of naval heroes, paintings and navigational instruments. The museum was set up by Charles X in 1827, and was moved to the Chaillot palace in 1943. Extensive renovations are currently underway to modernize the museum and create new spaces to explore historical and contemporary maritime themes.

Henri Bouchard’s Apollo statue outside the Musée de l’Homme

6 Jardins du Trocadéro  B6 ⌂ 75016 q Trocadéro

These charming gardens were created for the Exposition Universelle in 1937, at the same time as the Palais de Chaillot (p218). Their centrepiece is a long rectangular ornamental pool, bordered by stone and bronze-gilt statues, which look spectacular at night when the fountains are illuminated. The statues include Man by Pierre Traverse and Woman by Daniel Bacqué, Bull by Paul Jouve and Horse by Georges Guyot. On either side of the pool, the slopes of the Chaillot hill lead down to the Seine and the Pont d’Iéna. The 10-ha (25-acre) park is laid out with flowering trees, small streams and bridges,

WORLD FAIR In 1889, the World Fair (or Exposition Universelle) saw the construction of the Eiffel Tower (p200). The 1937 edition initiated the building of the Palais de Chaillot (p218, which replaced the exoticlooking Palais du Trocadéro, itself erected for the 1878 World Fair. Numerous other temporary structures dotted the area around the Champs de Mars, but today, only the Iron Lady remains. If it weren’t for the fact that the Eiffel Tower proved useful as a radio tower, it, too, would have been dismantled.

220

PICTURE PERFECT

Eiffel Tower

Visit the Eiffel Tower by taking the Metro to the Trocadéro stop, on line 6 or 9. This allows for postcardperfect photographs from the terrace at the Palais de Chaillot looking across the river with Paris’s most iconic landmark in the background.

and is a romantic place for a stroll. There is an aquarium in the northeast corner of the gardens, and in winter an outdoor ice-skating rink is open to visitors.

7"\= Aquarium de Paris  B6 ⌂ 5 Ave Albert de Mun 75016 q Trocadéro, Iéna # 10am–7pm daily (to 10 pm Sat), advance booking required ¢ 14 Jul ∑ aquariumdeparis.com

Originally built in 1878 for the Exposition Universelle, this is now a state-of-the-art aquarium which is home to over 500 species of sea creatures from around the world, including seahorses, clown-fish, stonefish and some spectacular sharks and rays, plus the Médusarium, Europe’s largest jellyfish exhibit. The building is located in a former quarry and has been designed to blend in entirely with the Chaillot hillside. Cinema screens showing cartoons and animal documentaries are interspersed with the aquariums, and there are art exhibitions and shows for children in the theatre.

The Eiffel Tower seen from the Jardins du Trocadéro

EXPERIENCE Champs-Élysées and Chaillot

One of the ornamental fountains in the huge Place de la Concorde

8\-= Avenue des Champs-Élysées  D4 ⌂ 75008 q Franklin D. Roosevelt, George V

Paris’s most famous and popular thoroughfare had its beginnings in about 1667, when the royal landscape garden designer André Le Nôtre extended the royal view from the Tuileries by creating a tree-lined avenue which eventually became known as the Champs-Élysées (Elysian Fields). It has been France’s national “triumphal way” ever since the homecoming of Napoleon’s body from St Helena in 1840. With the addition of cafés and restaurants in the second half of the 19th century, the ChampsÉlysées became the place in which to see and be seen. The Rond-Point des ChampsÉlysées is the prettiest part, with chestnut trees and flower beds. A number of major brands, such as H&M and Abercrombie & Fitch, have their flagship stores here, while fast-food cafés jostle for space with more upmarket establishments such as Fouquet’s brasserie. In July, the avenue is the setting for the exhilarating sprint finish of the annual Tour de France cycle race. 222

One of Europe’s most magnificent and historic squares, Place de la Concorde covers more than 8 ha (20 acres) in the middle of Paris. 9 Place Charles de Gaulle (l’Étoile)  C4 ⌂ 75008 q Charles de Gaulle-Étoile

Known as the Place de l’Étoile until the death of Charles de Gaulle in 1969, the area is still referred to simply as l’Étoile, “the star”. The present place was laid out in accordance with Baron Haussmann’s plans of 1854 (p55). For motorists, it is the ultimate challenge.

10 Place de la Concorde  F5 ⌂ 75008 q Concorde

One of Europe’s most magnificent and historic squares, Place de la Concorde covers more than 8 ha (20 acres) in the middle of Paris. Starting out as Place Louis XV, displaying a statue of the eponymous king, it was built in the mid18th century by architect Jacques-Ange Gabriel, who chose to make it an open

octagon with only the north side containing mansions. In the square’s next incarnation, as the Place de la Révolution, the statue was replaced by the guillotine. The death toll in the square in two and a half years was 1,119, and victims included Louis XVI, MarieAntoinette (who died in view of the secret apartment she kept at No 2 Rue Royale) and the Revolutionary leaders Danton and Robespierre. In the spirit of reconciliation, the square was then renamed Concorde (originally by chastened Revolutionaries). Its grandeur was enhanced in the 19th century by the arrival of the 3,200-year-old Luxor obelisk – a gift from Egypt, 23-m (75-ft) tall and covered in hieroglyphics – as well as two fountains and eight statues personifying French cities. It has become the culminating point of triumphal parades down the Champs-Élysées each 14 July, most notably on the memorable Bastille Day of 1989 when the Revolution’s bicentenary was celebrated by a million people, including many world leaders.

11 " ' - = Grand Palais

12 ' - = Petit Palais

 E5 ⌂ Porte A, Ave du Général Eisenhower 75008 q Champs-ÉlyséesClemenceau ¢ Until 2024 ∑ grandpalais.fr

 E5 ⌂ Ave Winston Churchill 75008 q Champs-ÉlyséesClemenceau # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri for temporary exhibitions) ¢ Public hols ∑ petit palais.paris.fr

Built at the same time as the Petit Palais and the Pont Alexandre III, the exterior of this massive palace combines an imposing classical stone façade with a riot of Art Nouveau ironwork. The enor­ mous glass roof (15,000 sq m/ 160,000 sq ft) has Récipon’s colossal bronze statues of flying horses and chariots at its four corners. The metal structure supporting the glass weighs 8,500 tonnes, some 500 tonnes more than the Eiffel Tower’s. Today, the restored Grand Palais hosts art exhibitions and other events. In winter, the nave turns into the world’s biggest indoor ice rink. Major touring and temporary exhibitions are held at the Galeries Nationales in the same building; these are often very popular and it’s worth booking ahead. The Grand Palais will remain closed to the public until the 2024 Olympics.

Built for the Exposition Universelle in 1900, this jewel of a building now houses the Musée des Beaux­Arts de la Ville de Paris. Arranged around a pretty courtyard, the palace is similar in style to the Grand Palais, and is graced with Ionic columns, a grand porch and a dome. The wing nearest the river is used for temporary exhibit­ ions, while the Champs­Élysées side of the palace houses the permanent collections: Greek and Roman artifacts; medieval and Renaissance ivories and sculptures; Renaissance clocks and jewellery; and 17th­, 18th­, and 19th­century art and furniture. There are also many works by Impressionist artists. The Neo-Classical entrance to the Petit Palais

EAT Astrance

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Pierre Gagnaire

One of Paris’s best chefs wows diners with a contemporary dining experience.  C4 ⌂ 6 Rue Balzac 75008 ∑ pierregagnaire.com ¡¡¡

Relais de l’Entrecôte Steak, chips and nothing else. It’s a family favourite; just go early to queue up – it doesn’t take long to get a table.  D5 # 15 Rue Marbeuf 75008 ∑ relaisentrecote.fr ¡¡¡

A ceiling painting by Maurice Denis inside the Petit Palais

223

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées, looking towards the Arc de Triomphe and La Défense

13 Pont Alexandre III

EXPERIENCE Champs-Élysées and Chaillot

 E5 ⌂ 75008 q Champs-ÉlyséesClemenceau

226

This is Paris’s prettiest bridge with its exuberant Art Nouveau decoration of lamps, cherubs, nymphs and winged horses at either end. It was built between 1896 and 1900, in time for the Exposition Universelle, and it was named after Tsar Alexander III of Russia, whose son Nicholas II laid the foun­ dation stone in October 1896. The style of the bridge reflects that of the Grand Palais, to which it leads on the Right Bank. The construc­ tion of the bridge is a marvel of 19th­century engineering, consisting of a 6­m­ (18­ft­) high single­span steel arch that stretches across the Seine. The design was sub­ ject to strict controls that prevented the bridge from obscuring the view of the Champs­Élysées (p222) or the DÔme des Invalides (p206) so, today, you can still enjoy magnificent views from here.

14 " - = Palais de la Découverte  E5 ⌂ Ave Franklin D Roosevelt 75008 q Franklin D. Roosevelt ¢ Until 2024 ∑ palaisdecouverte.fr

Opened in a wing of the Grand Palais (p223) for the World Fair of 1937, this science museum is a Paris institution. Demonstrations and displays, including a planetarium, cover many subjects and explain such phenomena as electro­ magnetism. The Palais de la Découverte will remain closed to the public until the 2024 Olympics.

15 Avenue Montaigne  D5 ⌂ 75008 q Franklin D. Roosevelt

In the 1800s, this avenue was famous for its dance halls and its Winter Garden, where Parisians went to hear Adolphe Sax play his newly invented saxophone. Today,

it is still a fashionable street, bustling with restaurants, cafés, hotels and designer boutiques. At one end lies the Art Deco Théâtre de Champs­Élysées, built in 1913.

16 Parc Monceau  D3 ⌂ 35 Blvd de Courcelles 75017 q Monceau, Courcelles # 7am–8pm daily (to 10pm summer)

This green haven dates back to 1778 when the Duc de Chartres (later Duc d’Orléans) commissioned the painter­ writer and amateur landscape designer Louis Carmontelle to create a magnificent garden. Also a theatre designer, Carmontelle created a “garden of dreams”, an exotic landscape full of architectural follies in imitation of English and German fashions of the time. In 1783, the Scottish landscape gardener Thomas Blaikie laid out an area of the garden in English style. The park was the scene of the first recorded parachute landing,

The ornamental pond in the charming Parc Monceau

made by André-Jacques Garnerin on 22 October 1797. Over the years, the park changed hands and in 1852 it was acquired by the state and half the land sold off for property development. The remaining land was made into public gardens. These were restored and new buildings erected by Adolphe Alphand, architect of the Bois de Boulogne (p292) and the Bois de Vincennes (p294). The park, one of the most chic in Paris, has lost many of its early features. A naumachia basin – an ornamental version

of a Roman pool used for simulating naval battles – remains, flanked by Corinthian columns. Other remaining features include a Renaissance arcade, pyramids, statues, a river and the Pavillon de Chartres, a charming rotunda designed by Nicolas Ledoux which was once used as a tollhouse. Just south of here is a huge red Chinese pagoda, which now houses a gallery devoted to Asian art.

17 " - = Musée JacquemartAndré  E3 ⌂ 158 Blvd Haussmann 75008 q Miromesnil, St-Philippedu-Roule # 10am–6pm daily (to 8:30pm Mon) ∑ musee-jacquemartandre.com

This museum is known for its collection of Italian Renaissance and French 18th-century works of art, as well as its beautiful frescoes by Tiepolo. Highlights include works by Mantegna, Uccello’s masterpiece St George and the Dragon (c 1435), paintings by Boucher and Fragonard, and 18th-century tapestries.

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Hotel de Sers

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Pont Alexandre III, with its flamboyant Art Nouveau decoration

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18 Palais de l’Élysée

EXPERIENCE Champs-Élysées and Chaillot

 E4 ⌂ 55 Rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré 75008 q St-Philippe-du-Roule ¢ To the public

Built for the Comte d’Evreux in 1718, the Élysée Palace has been the official residence of the President of the Republic since 1873. From 1805 to 1808, it was occupied by Napoleon’s sister, Caroline, and her hus­ band, Joachim Murat. Two rooms have been preserved from this period: the Salon Murat and the Salon d’Argent. General de Gaulle gave press conferences in the Hall of Mirrors. The president’s mod­ ernized apartments are on the first floor in the east wing, opposite the Rue de l’Élysée. The palace is open to the public only during the Journées du Patrimoine in September.

The imposing Art Deco Palais de Tokyo, housing two galleries of modern art

19 Cimetière de Passy  A6 ⌂ 2 Rue du Commandant-Shloesing 75016 q Trocadéro # 8am– 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am– 5:30pm Sat, 9am–5:30pm Sun (to 6pm 16 Mar–5 Nov)

This small cemetery, opened in 1820, is packed with the graves of eminent Parisians. Figures buried here include the composers Claude Debussy, Gabriel Fauré and Jacques Ibert, and renowned painter Edouard Manet, as well as many politicians and aristocrats, such as Ghislaine Dommanget, Princess of Monaco; Leila Pahlavi, daughter of the Shah of Iran; and Michel Droit, writer and journalist.

Edouard Manet’s gravestone in the Cimetière de Passy

20 ' - = Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris  C6 ⌂ 11 Ave du Président-Wilson 75116 q Iéna, Alma Marceau # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Thu) ¢ Public hols ∑ mam.paris.fr

This large lively museum houses the city of Paris’s own renowned collection of modern art. It has about 10,000 works representing major 20th­ and 21st­century artistic movements and artists. Established in 1961, the museum is one of two within the vast Palais de Tokyo, which was built for the 1937 World Fair. One of the museum’s highlights is Raoul Dufy’s gigantic mural The Spirit of Electricity, which traces the history of electricity through the ages. It was designed for the Electricity Pavilion at the 1937 fair. One of the

DRINK Here are five of the best hotel bars for enjoying a decadent sundowner around Champs-Élysées.

largest paintings in the world, measuring 600 sq metres (6,500 sq ft), this curved mural takes up a whole room of the museum. Also notable are the Cubists, Amedeo Modigliani, George Rouault, Duchamp, Klein and the Fauves. This group of avant-garde artists, including Dufy and Derain, was dominated by Matisse, whose celebrated mural La Danse is on display here; you can see both the incomplete early version and the finished version. Entry to the permanent exhibition is free, while the frequent temporary exhibitions require a ticket.

Did You Know? During World War II, the Nazis stored hundreds of pillaged pianos in the Palais de Tokyo.

21 " ' \ - = Palais de Tokyo  C5 ⌂ 13 Ave du Président-Wilson 75116 q Iéna, Alma Marceau # Noon–midnight Wed– Mon ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ palaisdetokyo.com

This enormous modern art gallery is adjacent to the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris within the imposing 1937 Palais de Tokyo. It presents an innovative, changing programme of contemporary art exhibitions, fashion shows and avant-garde performances. Installations by artists such as Pierre Joseph, Wang Du and Frank Scurti have earned the Palais de Tokyo a reputation as one of the most cutting-edge art houses in Europe. It also has a good bookshop and two restaurants, while club nights regularly take place in its basement space, Le Yoyo.

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Bar de l’Hôtel Belmont

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Le Bar Botaniste at the Shangri-La

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Le Bar du Bristol

 E4 ⌂ 112 Rue du FaubourgSt-Honoré 75008 ∑ oetkercollection.com

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A SHORT WALK

Distance 2 km (1.25 miles) Nearest Metro Invalides Time 20 minutes

The formal gardens that line the Champs-Élysées from the Place de la Concorde to the Rond-Point have changed little since they were laid out by the architect Jacques Hittorff in 1838. The Grand Palais and Petit Palais, which were created as showpieces of the Third Republic for the Exposition Universelle of 1900, sit on either side of an impressive vista that stretches from Place Clémenceau across the elegant curve of the Pont Alexandre III to the Invalides.

There are plaques on the back door of the Théâtre du Rond-Point representing Napoleon’s campaigns.

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Christian Dior and other haute couture houses are based on chic Avenue Montaigne.

Designed by Charles Girault, the 19th-century Grand Palais is being refurbished for the 2024 Olympic Games (p223).

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Outside the Palais de la Découverte is a pair of equestrian statues (p226).

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Lit by natural light, the Petit Palais is as much a work of art as the wide-ranging collections it contains, from antiquity to the belle époque (p223).

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Pont Alexandre III’s four columns help to anchor the piers that absorb the immense forces generated by such a large single-span structure (p226).

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Take the second path on the leƒ past the monument to Guy de Maupassant (1897), one of six French writers and musicians memorialized in the park.

Distance 3 km (2 miles) Walking time 45 minutes Nearest Metro Monceau

This leisurely walk passes through the exquisite late-18th-century Parc Monceau (p226), the centrepiece of a smart Second Empire district. The park is the most fashionable green space in Paris, full of well-heeled residents from the opulent mansions nearby. A stroll through the surrounding streets offers a fascinating glimpse of Paris at its most grand.

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The most important remaining folly in the park is a moss-covered Corinthian colonnade, running around the edge of a tiny lake with an island in the centre.

The Corinthian colonnade at the edge of the small lake in Parc Monceau

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The impressive interior of the Église St-Augustin

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The interior of St-Germain-des-Prés church

ST-GERMAINDES-PRÉS Named after a Benedictine abbey that was founded here in the 6th century, St-Germaindes-Prés came to prominence in the 1950s as the nucleus of the city’s intellectual life. Largely working class, the neighbourhood attracted numerous writers and philosophers with its nonconformist atmosphere and profusion of bookshops and publishing houses. Leading figures such as Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir held court at the district’s celebrated cafés, most notably Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots and Le Procope. They and their disciples may have left, but this area is still renowned for its youthful student atmosphere and literary traditions. Since the 1970s, the neighbourhood has become progressively more upmarket, with the emergence of numerous fashionable boutiques. Rue de Seine is lined with charming restaurants and contains many high-end galleries where the smart set purchase their art. 235

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EXPERIENCE St-Germain-des-Prés

MUSÉE D’ORSAY  G6 ⌂ 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur q Solférino @ 24, 68, 69, 84 to Quai A France; 73 to Rue Solférino; 63, 83, 84, 94 to Blvd St-Germain W Musée d’Orsay # 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:45pm Thu) ¢ 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ musee-orsay.fr

The Musée d’Orsay picks up where the Louvre ends, showing a variety of art forms from 1848 to 1914. Its star attraction is a superb collection of Impressionist art, which includes famous works by Monet, Renoir, Manet and Degas, as well as pieces by Georges Seurat, Gaugin and Van Gogh. In 1986, 47 years after it had closed as a mainline railway station, Victor Laloux’s superb late-19th-century building was reopened as the Musée d’Orsay. Originally commissioned by the Orléans railway company to be its Paris terminus, the structure avoided demolition in the 1970s after being classified as a historical monument. During the conversion into a museum, much of the original architecture was retained. The collection was set up to present each of the arts of the period from 1848 to 1914 in the context of contemporary society and other forms of creative activity happening at the time. The displays are constantly evolving, and American collectors made large donations of works in 2016 and 2019.

The light and spacious entrance hall, with curved glass ceiling

Must See GREAT VIEW

City Panorama Make your way to the rear escalator, ride it all the way up, and head to the small rooftop terrace for a great bird’seye view of the city.

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3 1 The clock face on the fifth floor provides views over the Seine to the Jardin des Tuileries. 2 Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (1863) by Manet caused a scandal when it was first exhibited.

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3 Monet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (1865–6) was a tribute to the work of the same name by Manet.

GALLERY GUIDE The collection occupies three levels and a linked decorative arts pavilion. The ground floor, with sculptures down the central aisle, houses Academic, Realist and Symbolist works. The upper level has an outstanding array of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. Renovations are taking place on the middle level through 2021, though temporary exhibits are sometimes hosted here.

The former railway station, designed by Victor Laloux for the Exposition Universelle of 1900

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EXPERIENCE St-Germain-des-Prés

2= Musée de la Légion d’Honneur  G6 ⌂ 2 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (Parvis du Musée d’Orsay) 75007 q Solférino W Musée d’Orsay # 1–6pm Wed– Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 24 & 25 Dec ∑ legiondhonneur.fr

Next to the Musée d’Orsay is the truly massive Hôtel de Salm. It was one of the last great mansions to be built in the area (1782). The first owner was a German count, Prince de Salm-Kyrbourg, who was guillotined in 1794. Today, the building contains a museum where you can learn all about the Legion of Honour, a decoration launched by Napoleon I. Those awarded the honour

wear a small red rosette in their buttonhole. The impressive displays of medals and insignia are complemented by paintings. In one of the rooms, Napoleon’s Legion of Honour is on display with his sword and breastplate. The museum also contains examples of decorations from most parts of the world, among them the British Victoria Cross and the American Purple Heart.

3' Académie Française  H7 ⌂ 23 Quai de Conti 75006 q Pont Neuf, StGermain-des-Prés ∑ academie-francaise.fr

This striking Baroque edifice was built as a school for young noblemen in 1688

INSIDER TIP

Macaron Mecca Sample the city’s most innovative macarons, such as jasmine and wild strawberry, at Pierre Hermé’s flagship, on Rue Bonaparte, near St-Germain-des-Prés.

and given over to the Institut de France in 1805. Its cupola was designed by architect Louis Le Vau to harmonize with the Palais du Louvre. The Académie Française is the oldest of the five academies of the institute. Founded in 1635 by Cardinal Richelieu, it is charged with regulating the French language by deciding acceptable grammar and vocabulary, and with the compilation of an official

dictionary of the French language. From the beginning, membership has been limited to 40 scholars, who are entrusted with a lifelong commitment to working on the dictionary. The building is only open to the public during the Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) on the third weekend of September.

19th-century Palais des Études. A host of budding French and foreign painters and architects have crossed the large courtyard to study in the ateliers of the school. Young American architects, in particular, have frequented the halls since the late 19th century. Works from its collections can be viewed in regular exhibitions; see website.

4"École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts

5"'= Musée Eugène Delacroix

 H7 ⌂ 13 Quai Malaquais & 14 Rue Bonaparte 75006 q St-Germain-des-Prés ∑ beauxartsparis.com

The main French school of fine arts occupies an enviable position at the corner of Rue Bonaparte and the riverside Quai Malaquais. The school is housed in several buildings, the most imposing being the

 H7 ⌂ 6 Rue de Fürstenberg 75006 q St-Germain-des-Prés, Mabillon # 9:30am– 5:30pm Wed–Mon, advance booking required ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ museedelacroix.fr

The leading nonconformist Romantic painter Eugène Delacroix, known for his passionate and highly coloured canvases, lived and worked here from 1857 to his death in 1863. Here, he painted The Entombment of Christ and The Way to Calvary (which now hang in the museum). He also created superb murals for the Chapel of the Holy Angels in the nearby St-Sulpice church (p243), which is part of the reason why he moved to this area. The first-floor apartment and garden studio now form a national museum, where regular exhibitions of Delacroix’s work are held. The apartment has portraits, studies for future works and artistic memorabilia. The charm of Delacroix’s garden is reflected in the tiny Fürstenberg square. With its pair of rare catalpa trees and old-fashioned street lamps, the square is one of Paris’s most romantic corners.

6'= St-Germain-des-Prés  H7 ⌂ 3 Pl St-Germaindes-Prés 75006 q StGermain-des-Prés # 9am–8pm Sun & Mon, 8:30am–8pm Tue–Sat ∑ eglise-saintgermain despres.fr

This is the oldest church in Paris, originating in 543 when King Childebert built a basilica to house holy relics. It became a powerful Benedictine abbey, which was suppressed during the French Revolution, when most of the buildings were destroyed by a fire. The present church dates from about the 11th century and was restored in the 19th century. The interior is a mix of architectural styles, with a number of 6th-century marble columns, Gothic vaulting and Romanesque arches. Famous tombs include that of René Descartes. TOP

5

SHOPPING STREETS

Rue Lobineau  H8

Home of the St- Germain food market. Rue Bonaparte  H8

Full of swanky shops, including the Pierre Hermé flagship. Rue du Bac  G7

Full of pastry shops and other confections. Rue de Sèvres  G8

The location of Le Bon Marché (p243), Paris’s first department store. Rue de Buci  H8

The Académie Française, ultimate arbiter of French language and grammar

A former market street that today houses cafés and cute shops.

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EXPERIENCE St-Germain-des-Prés

7"'\-= Monnaie de Paris  H7 ⌂ 11 Quai de Conti 75006 q Pont Neuf, Odéon # 11am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Wed) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ monnaiedeparis.fr

In the late 18th century, when Louis XV decided to rehouse the Mint, he launched a design competition for the new building. The Hôtel des Monnaies is the result. It was completed in 1775, and the architect, Jacques Antoine, lived here until his death. Coins were minted in the mansion until 1973, when the process was moved to Pessac in the Gironde. Until recently only a small part of the build­ ing was open to the public, but after a major renovation, the whole complex can now be visited, including its interior courtyards and a garden, as well as its revamped museum, the Musée du 11 Conti. Centred around a tranquil public space and surrounded by artists’ workshops, the permanent gallery focuses on the history of coins and minting. Regular exhibitions of contemporary art are also staged here. There are also shops selling work by resident artisans, a gastronomic restau­ rant run by chef Guy Savoy and a more casual café.

Did You Know? Remnants of the old Paris wall can be found in the chocolate shop on Cour du Commerce St-André.

8\-= Rue St-Andrédes-Arts  J8 ⌂ 75006 q St-Michel, Odéon

Extending from Place St­ André­des­Arts, where the square’s namesake church once stood, this little street boasts numerous historical monuments. Dating back to 1179, it once led to the gate of the city in the former Philippe Auguste wall. The mansion at No 27 was owned by Louis XIII’s geographer in the 1600s, while grammarian and encyclopaedist Pierre Larousse lived at No 49 in the 19th century. Peeling south off Rue St­André­ des­Arts is the cobbled Cour du Commerce.

9 Cour du Commerce St-André  J8 ⌂ 75006 q Odéon

No 9 in this historic passage has a particularly grisly past, because it was here that Dr Guillotin is supposed to have perfected his “philanthropic decapitating machine”. In fact, although the idea was Guillotin’s, it was Dr Antoine Louis, a Parisian surgeon, who was responsible for putting

A coin press at the Musée du 11 Conti

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The picturesque Cour du Commerce St-André enchants at twilight

the “humane” plan into action. When the guillotine was first used for execution in 1792, it was known as a Louisette.

10 \ Le Procope  J8 ⌂ 13 Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie 75006 q Odéon # Noon– midnight daily (to 1am Thu–Sat) ∑ procope.com

Founded in 1686 by the Sicilian Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, this claims to be the world’s first coffee house. It quickly became popular with the city’s political and cultural elite. Its illustrious patrons have included the philosopher Voltaire – who supposedly drank 40 cups of his favourite mixture of coffee and choco­ late every day – and the young Napoleon, who would leave his hat as security while he went searching for the money to pay the bill. Le Procope is now an 18th­ century­style restaurant serving coq au vin and other brasserie classics.

13 Café de Flore  H7 ⌂ 172 Blvd St-Germain 75006 q St-Germain-desPrés # 7:30am–1:30am daily ∑ cafedeflore.fr

The classic Art Deco interior of this café has changed little since World War II. Like its neighbouring rival Les Deux Magots (p244), Café de Flore has hosted most of the French intellectuals during the post-War years.

EAT Semilla

Sharing plates and fresh, innovative cooking with local ingredients are on the menu here.

11 ' St-Sulpice

12 \ - = Le Bon Marché

 H8 ⌂ 2 Rue Palatine, Pl St-Sulpice 75006 q St-Sulpice # 7:30am– 7:30pm daily ∑ pss75.fr/ saint-sulpice-paris

 G8 ⌂ 24 Rue de Sèvres 75007 q Sèvres-Babylone # 10am–8pm Mon–Sat (to 8:45pm Thu & Fri), 11am– 8pm Sun ∑ 24sevres.com

 H7 ⌂ 54 Rue de Seine 75006 ∑ semillaparis.com

It took over a century, from 1646, for this imposing church to be built. The result is a simple two-storey west front with two tiers of elegant columns. The overall harmony of the building is marred only by the towers, one at each end, which do not match. Large arched windows fill the interior with light. By the front door are two huge shells given to François I by the Venetian Republic – they rest on bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. In the side chapel to the right of the main door are three magnificent murals by Eugène Delacroix: Jacob Wrestling with the Angel, Heliodorus Driven from the Temple and St Michael Killing the Dragon. If you are lucky, you can catch an organ recital. There are regular guided tours of the church and chapel; see the website for details.

Welcoming as many as 15,000 customers per day, “The Good Market” (or “The Good Deal”) is the swankiest department store in Paris, selling luxury goods as well as gourmet foods in its annexe La Grande Épicerie on Rue du Bac. The designer clothing section is well sourced, the high-end accessories are excellent, and the own-brand linen has a good quality-to-price ratio. Le Bon Marché is also the world’s oldest department store, founded in 1852 by Aristide Boucicaut and his wife. The Boucicauts used their keen sense of commerce to introduce innovative practices – fixed prices, sales, home delivery, advertising and guarantees – that became the standard for other grands magasins. Designed by Louis-Charles Boileau and Gustave Eiffel, it is an architectural landmark.

Le Comptoir du Relais

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This bistro is a staple of the area for inventive French cooking at lunch and dinner.  H8 ⌂ 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon 75006 ∑ hotel-paris-relaissaint-germain.com ¡¡¡

Ze Kitchen Galerie

French cooking infused with international inspirations; the tasting menu at this former canteen is good value.  J7 ⌂ 4 Rue des Grands Augustins 75006 ¢ Sat, Sun ∑ zekitchengalerie.fr ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE St-Germain-des-Prés

14 Les Deux Magots  H7 ⌂ 6 Pl St-Germaindes-Prés 75006 q StGermain-des-Prés # 7:30am–1am daily ¢ One week in Jan ∑ lesdeuxmagots.com

Established in 1914, this café still trades on its reputation as the meeting place of the city’s literary and intellectual elite. This derives from the patronage of Surrealist artists and writers, including Ernest Hemingway, in the 1920s and 1930s, and existentialist philosophers and writers in the 1950s. The present clientele is more likely to consist of publishers or people-watchers than the new Hemingway. The café’s name comes from the two wooden statues of Chinese commercial agents (magots) that adorn one of the

pillars. This is a good place for enjoying an old-fashioned hot chocolate or a classic French omelette and watching the world go by from a seat on the wraparound terrace.

15 " - = Musée Maillol  G7 ⌂ 59/61 Rue de Grenelle 75007 q SèvresBabylone, Rue du Bac # 10:30am–6:30pm daily (to 8:30pm Fri) ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ museemaillol.com

Once the home of novelist Alfred de Musset, this museum was created by Dina Vierny, former model of Aristide Maillol. All aspects of the artist’s work are here: drawings, engravings, paintings, sculpture and decorative objects. Also displayed is Vierny’s private collection, including works

At night, illuminated every so often by the Bateaux Mouches cruising underneath, the Pont des Arts is an especially romantic place to walk or picnic in warmer months. 244

STAY Hôtel de Saint Germain

It’s all about the location at this simple, no-frills, yet well-designed hotel.  G8 ⌂ 50 Rue du Four 75006 ∑ hotel-desaint-germain.fr ¡¡¡

Relais Christine

This luxury property includes a spa for guests who are after a bit of pampering.  J7 ⌂ 3 Rue Christine 75006 ∑ relais-christine.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel Récamier

Elegance and comfort are on order at this tiny property tucked behind St-Sulpice.  H8 ⌂ 3B Place St-Sulpice 75006 ∑ hotelrecamier.com ¡¡¡

The Pont des Arts with its prime view of the Institut de France

casual visitor, however, can simply enjoy the collection of taxidermied animals, from giant elephants and rhinos to the most delicate birds and crustaceans. There is a wide range of insects housed in drawers. Iridescent beetles and colourful butterflies sit alongside terrifying tarantulas and scorpions. Everything is for sale, mostly at decent prices considering the quality.

17 Pont des Arts  H7 ⌂ 75006 q Louvre-Rivoli

by Matisse, Picasso and Rodin. The museum stages regular temporary art exhibitions, which are usually on themes and artists associated with Maillol. Note that it is closed in between exhibitions, so it is best to check the website before visiting. Large allegorical figures of the city of Paris, the River Seine and the four seasons decorate Edme Bouchardon’s fountain, La Fontaine des Quatre Saisons, built in 1739–45, in front of the house.

16 = Deyrolle

Sometimes referred to as the Passerelle des Arts, this picturesque iron bridge, part of the UNESCO-listed Parisian

riverfront, has more often been called the “Love Lock Bridge” in recent years. The nickname refers to the nowforbidden practice of couples fixing padlocks to the bridge to signify their love; the practice had to be stopped because the locks exerted too much weight on the structure and started to destroy it. Now revived and restored – following the removal of almost a million locks weighing 45 tonnes – this pedestrian bridge, built under Napoleon from 1801 to 1804, has been returned to its 19th-century splendour. The first iron bridge in Paris, it links the Institut de France with the Louvre, offering resplendent views of the Île de la Cité from above the river. At night, illuminated every so often by the Bateaux Mouches cruising gently underneath, the Pont des Arts is an especially romantic place to walk or picnic in warmer months.

THE CELEBRATED CAFÉS OF PARIS One of the most enduring images of Paris is the café scene. For the visitor, it is the romantic vision of great artists, writers or eminent intellectuals consorting in one of the Left Bank’s celebrated cafés. For the Parisian, the café is one of life’s constants, an everyday experience, providing people with a place to tryst, drink and meet friends, to conclude business deals, or to simply watch the world go by. The most famous cafés are on the Left Bank, in St-Germain and Montparnasse. Sartre and his intellectual peers, among them the writers Simone de Beauvoir and Albert Camus, gathered to work and discuss their ideas in Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore.

 G7 ⌂ 46 Rue du Bac 75005 q Rue du Bac # 10am–1pm & 2–7pm Mon, 10am–7pm Tue–Sat ∑ deyrolle.com

A Parisian institution since 1831, Deyrolle is a cabinet of curiosities that continues to delight all who enter its doors. Originally a taxidermy shop, it has evolved over the years, and now part of its mission is to raise awareness about wildlife conservation. The

Les Deux Magots, where the literary and intellectual elite used to gather

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A SHORT WALK

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest Metro St-Germain-des-Prés Time 15 minutes

A walk around this area is to follow in the footsteps of some of Paris’s most iconic inhabitants. After World War II, St-Germain-des-Prés became synonymous with intellectual life centred on bars and cafés. Philosophers, writers, actors and musicians mingled in the cellar nightspots and brasseries, where existentialist philosophy co-existed with American jazz. The area is now smarter than in the heyday of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, but the writers are still around, enjoying the pleasures of café life.

Descartes and Casimir, King of Poland, are among the notables buried in Paris’s oldest church, St-Germain-des-Prés (p241).

In the 1950s, French intellectuals wrestled with new philosophical ideas in the Art Deco interior of the Café de Flore (p243).

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ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Les Deux Magots is famous for its celebrity patrons such as Ernest Hemingway (p244).

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Café terraces, boutiques, cinemas, restaurants and bookshops characterize the central section of the Left Bank’s Boulevard St-Germain.

Les Deux Magots, on the pleasant Boulevard St-Germain

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Locator Map For more detail see p236

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Admiring the works of the Romantic painter at the Musée Eugène Delacroix

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The Musée Eugène Delacroix is dedicated to the life and works of the Romantic painter (p241).

Marché St-Germain is an old covered food market which opened in 1818, taking over the site of a former fairground.

247

The Shakespeare and Company bookshop

LATIN QUARTER Located on the Left Bank, the Latin Quarter spreads over the 5th and 6th arrondissements. One of the oldest and best-known areas of Paris (the Rue St-Jacques is probably the oldest street in the city), this lively neighbourhood exudes a bohemian charm. It emerged in the Middle Ages as a student quarter, with the celebrated Sorbonne University attracting scholars from all over Europe. Much of the area’s character was established at this time, as it grew up into a maze of tiny cobblestoned streets leading to gardens and churches. The Latin Quarter was at the centre of the riots that erupted out of the student protests and workers’ strike in May 1968, but since then the Boulevard St-Michel, the area’s spine, has turned increasingly to commerce, not demonstrations. Today there are cheap shops and fast-food outlets, and the cobbled streets are now pedestrianized and filled with small cafés, ethnic boutiques and second-hand bookshops. 249

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1"'

EXPERIENCE Latin Quarter

PANTHÉON  J9 ⌂ Pl du Panthéon q Cardinal Lemoine, Maubert-Mutualité @ 84 to Panthéon; 21, 27, 38, 82, 85, 89 to Gare du Luxembourg W Luxembourg # 10am–6:30pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm); Dome: Apr–Oct ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec ∑ paris-pantheon.fr

Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, Paris’s Panthéon was originally built as a church. Today a public building, it provides a fitting final resting place for the nation’s great figures. When Louis XV recovered from desperate illness in 1744, he was so grateful to be alive that he conceived a magnificent church to honour Sainte Geneviève. The design was entrusted to the French architect JacquesGermain Soufflot, who planned the church in Neo-Classical style. Work began in 1757 and was completed in 1790, ten years after Soufflot’s death, under the supervision of Guillaume Rondelet. But with the Revolution under way, the church was soon turned into a pantheon – a location for the tombs of France’s great and good. Napoleon returned it to the Church in 1806, but it was secularized and then desecularized once more before finally being made a civic building in 1885.

The colonnade encircling the dome, both decorative and part of an ingenious supporting system

THE PANTHÉON'S ENSHRINED The first of France’s great men to be entombed here (though later removed on the orders of Robespierre) was the popular orator Honoré Mirabeau. Voltaire followed, as did other literary notables, including Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Émile Zola. In the 1970s, the remains of the wartime Resistance leader Jean Moulin were reburied here. Pierre and Marie Curie’s remains were transferred here in 1995, followed by Alexandre Dumas in 2002. In 2015, four more Resistance fighters – two of them women – took their places in the Panthéon.

252

Pediment relief Entrance

Must See

The elegant arches linking the four pillars that support the dome

Alphonse Terroir’s statue (1925) to the political writer Denis Diderot

Dome lantern

Did You Know? Dome galleries

Colonnade

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The dome was inspired by St Paul’s in London and the Dôme des Invalides (p206).

The church, designed in the shape of a Greek cross

253

EXPERIENCE Latin Quarter

A collection of exquisitely decorated medieval armour and shields at the Musée de Cluny

EXPERIENCE MORE 2"= Musée de Cluny  J8 ⌂ 28 Rue du Sommerard 75005 q Cluny-La Sorbonne, Odéon, St-Michel ¢ For renovation until Sep 2021 ∑ musee-moyenage.fr

This museum is housed in the former town house of the abbots of Cluny, theHôtel de Cluny. Surrounded by imagina­ tively recreated medieval gardens, it is a unique combina­ tion of Gallo­Roman ruins incorporated into a medieval mansion, and contains one of

the world’s finest collections of medieval art. Highlights include the Lady with the Unicorn, an outstanding series of six tapestries, and the Gallery of the Kings, which contains 22 of the 27 stone heads of the Kings of Judah (carved around 1220 and removed from Notre­Dame in the 18th century). The museum is closed until autumn 2021 while it undergoes renovation; check the website for details before visiting.

3' Musée de la Préfecture de Police  K8 ⌂ 4 Rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviève 75005 § 01 44 41 52 50 q Maubert-Mutualité # 9:30am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am–5pm 3rd Sat of month ¢ Sun & public hols

A darker side to Paris’s history is exposed in this small, rather old­fashioned museum. Created in 1909, the collection traces the development of the police in Paris from the Middle Ages to the 20th century.

A statue of Guillaume Budé, Collège de France

Curiosities on show include arrest warrants for figures such as the famous Revolutionary Danton, and a rather sobering display of weapons and tools used by famous criminals. There is also a section on the part that the police played in the Resistance and subsequent liberation of Paris.

4 Collège de France  J9 ⌂ 11 Pl MarcelinBerthelot 75005 q Maubert-Mutualité # Sep–Jun: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri ¢ School hols ∑ college-de-france.fr

One of Paris’s great institutes of research and learning, the college was established in 1530 by François I. Guided by the great humanist Guillaume Budé, the king aimed to counteract the rigidity and traditionalism of the Sorbonne. A statue of Budé stands in the west courtyard, and the unbiased approach to learning is reflected in the inscription on the old college entrance: docet omnia (all are taught here). Lectures are free and open to the public – see the website for details. HIDDEN GEM

Thermes de Cluny

These Roman baths were built at the end of the 1st century AD. In the 14th century the Cluny monks built their abbey over the ruins and today they can be seen as part of a visit to the Musée de Cluny.

5' La Sorbonne

the exception of the chapel. You can book onto a guided tour by emailing ahead.

 J9 ⌂ 1 Rue Victor Cousin 75005 q ClunyLa Sorbonne, MaubertMutualité ∑ sorbonne.fr

6 St-Séverin

The Sorbonne, seat of the University of Paris, was established in 1253 by Robert de Sorbon, confessor to Louis IX, for 16 poor students to study theology. The college soon became the centre of scholastic theology. In 1469, the rector had three printing machines brought over from Mainz, thereby founding the first printing house in France. The college’s opposition to liberal 18th-century philosophy led to its suppression during the Revolution. It was re-established by Napoleon in 1806. The buildings built by Richelieu in the early 17th century were replaced by the ones seen today, with

The chapel of La Sorbonne, with its elegant dome

 J8 ⌂ 3 Rue des PrêtresSt-Séverin 75005 q StMichel # 11am–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 9am–8pm Sun ∑ saint-severin.com

One of the most beautiful churches in Paris and a popular venue for concerts, St-Séverin, named after a 6th-century hermit who lived in the area, is a perfect example of the Flamboyant Gothic style. Construction finished during the early 16th century and included a remarkable double ambulatory circling the chancel. In 1684, the Grande Mademoiselle, cousin to Louis XIV, adopted St-Séverin after breaking with St-Sulpice and had the church’s chancel modernized.

EAT Shakespeare and Co Café

Sip coffee and nibble cakes outside the iconic bookshop (p258).  K8 ⌂ 37 Rue de la Bûcherie 75005 ∑ shakespeareand company.com ¡¡¡

Chez Gladines

Hearty and affordable no-frills French meals.  K8 ⌂ 44 Blvd StGermain 75005 ∑ chezgladinessaintgermain.fr ¡¡¡

La Tour d’Argent Dine where French royalty first used a fork. Try the legendary duck.

 L8 ⌂ 15 Quai de la Tournelle 75005 ¢ Sun, Mon ∑ tourdargent.com ¡¡¡

7 Place St-Michel

EXPERIENCE Latin Quarter

 J8 ⌂ 75005 q St-Michel

This square at a busy intersection is a popular meeting place for Parisians and tour groups. Created in 1855, it’s defined by the statue of Saint Michael the archangel slaying Satan, part of the monumental fountain built into the side of an adjacent building. The mix of colours and motifs earned it some criticism initially, and it was the last monumental wall fountain to be built in the city, ending the Renaissance-era trend brought to Paris by Catherine de Medici. Originally the fountain was meant to honour Napoleon Bonaparte, but the city council thought better of it and opted not to ruffle the feathers of antiBonaparte reactionaries. Nowadays, the fountain is a memorable welcome to the Latin Quarter for visitors entering the district from Île St-Louis. It is surrounded by

The monumental fountain in Place St-Michel

cafés and bookshops which are popular with local university students.

8= Gibert Jeune Bookshops  J8 ⌂ Multiple locations, Place St-Michel 75005 q St-Michel # 9:30am– 7:30pm Mon–Sat ∑ gibertjeune.fr

A former professor, Joseph Gibert opened his first shop in 1886. He sold books on the Quai St-Michel along with the other bouquinistes (used-book sellers who ply their wares out of green boxes along the Seine). Gibert’s sons continued the family business, opening separate outposts under the name. Gibert Jeune is the original bookshop, while Gibert Joseph is a newer space, with a number of other outlets all dotted around the Place St-Michel, a stone’s throw from the Sorbonne. Inside, customers will find academic books, maps

300,000 books are held in the green boxes of the bouquinistes along the river.

of Paris, novels, travel guides and much else. At No 10 there is a large collection of travel- and tourism-related books.

9 St-Julien- le-Pauvre  K8 ⌂ 79 Rue Galande 75005 § 01 43 54 52 16 q St-Michel W St-MichelNotre-Dame # 9:30am– 1:30pm, 3–6:30pm daily

At least three saints can claim to be patron of this church, but the most likely is St Julian the Hospitaller. The church, together with St-Germain-des-Prés, is one of the oldest in Paris, dating from between 1165 and 1220. The university held its official meetings

The Gothic-Renaissance church of St-Étienne-du-Mont

in the church until 1524, when a student protest created so much damage that meetings were barred from the church by parliament. Since 1889, it has belonged to the Melchite sect of the Greek Orthodox Church, and it is now the setting for chamber and religious music concerts.

the square had returned to commercial use, and included a unique market where beggars would sell unused tobacco that they collected from the streets. Today the market is entirely wholesome, and you can browse stalls selling organic strawberries, cheese and dried hams.

10 = Marché Maubert

11 ' St-Étienne-du-Mont

 K8 ⌂ Place Maubert 75005 # 7am–2:30pm Tue & Thu, 7am–3pm Sat q Maubert-Mutualité

 K9 ⌂ 30 Rue Descartes, Pl Ste-Geneviève 75005 q Cardinal Lemoine # Opening hours vary; check website for details ∑ saintetiennedumont.fr

Popular with locals, this is one of the city’s oldest outdoor markets, dating back to 1547. In earlier times the square was a place where carriage drivers emptied their waste, creating a truly gut-wrenching stench that drove out many inhabitants. Eventually the city cleaned up the mess and repurposed the square as a place for public executions, installing breaking wheels and gibbets here in the 16th century. By the 19th century

This remarkable church houses the shrine of Sainte Geneviève, patron saint of Paris, as well as the remains of the great literary figures Racine and Pascal. Some parts are in the Gothic style and others date from the Renaissance, including a magnificent rood screen that crosses the nave like a bridge. The stained-glass windows are also of note.

STAY Hôtel Design Sorbonne

Stylish and central, this boutique hotel is a good deal given its location.  J9 ⌂ 6 Rue Victor Cousin 75005 ∑ hotelsorbonne.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel des Grands Hommes

Sleep in 19th-century grandeur at this tasteful property.  J9 ⌂ 17 Place du Panthéon 75005 ∑ hoteldesgrands hommes.com ¡¡¡

Les Degrés de Notre-Dame

Good-value simplicity in central Paris, right across from Notre-Dame.  K8 ⌂ 10 Rue des Grands Degrés 75005 § 01 55 42 88 88 ¡¡¡

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12 " Grand Action Cinéma

EXPERIENCE Latin Quarter

 K9 ⌂ 5 Rue des Écoles 75005 q Cardinal Lemoine, Jussieu ∑ legrandaction.com

Located in the heart of the Latin Quarter, this tiny inde­ pendent operation is one of the most exciting cinematic experiences in Paris. The site has been a handball court, a Revolutionaries’ meeting place and a dance hall over the years. Today it welcomes all sorts of films and retro­ spectives, ranging from niche independent films to Oscar­ nominated pictures. The director and local student clubs regularly host industry professionals for talks to the public on themes such as science­fiction movies or Russian films. There are just two theatres with rows of red­cushioned seats, but the Grand Action perseveres even as multiplexes have risen in popularity.

13 Bibliothèque Ste-Geneviève  J9 ⌂ 10 Place du Panthéon 75005 q Maubert-Mutualité # 10am–10pm Mon–Sat ∑ bsg.univ-paris3.fr

This massive, sober­looking library houses some two million documents salvaged from the nearby abbey of Ste­Geneviève. Visitors to the neighbourhood may completely overlook it, as the enormous dome of the Panthéon tends to command more attention. It was, however, the first French library that was built without any connection to a palace or school building. It opened to the public in 1851, and architect Henri Labrouste incorporated a soaring glass­and­iron ceiling into the main reading room. There is usually a queue to enter the library, and visitors may be required

to register at the front desk, but it is worth it to work in such a grand setting.

14 - = Shakespeare and Company  K8 ⌂ 37 Rue de la Bûcherie 75005 # 10am– 10pm daily q St-Michel, Maubert-Mutualité ∑ shakespeareand company.com

George Whitman opened this now­iconic shop in 1951. Originally called Le Mistral, it was renamed Shakespeare

Did You Know? This district was the scene of violent clashes between angry students and police in the riots of May 1968.

The legendary American-run English-language bookshop Shakespeare and Company

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Square René Viviani, a perfect retreat from the bustle of the city

and Company in 1964 after the renowned bookshop run by Sylvia Beach on nearby Rue de l’Odéon, which closed in 1941 during the Occupation. Whitman sought to emulate the spirit of Beach’s shop, attracting expat writers like Henry Miller and Anaïs Nin. Over the years, the owner allowed young writers to sleep in the shop for free, asking them only to read, help at the shop and write a page-long autobiography. The shop continues Whitman’s traditions under his daughter Sylvia, named after Beach. There are always literary events taking place, some featuring big names like David Sedaris. The shop is tiny, but well stocked with contemporary literature, Paris-themed books and English travel books. Next door is a coffee shop (p255), where you can sit with a book at one of the outdoor tables facing Notre-Dame.

15 Square René Viviani  K8 ⌂ 25 Quai de Montebello 75005 q St-Michel, MaubertMutualité # 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat–Sun (to 8:30pm in summer)

One of many little green oases in Paris, Square René Viviani has views of Notre-Dame that beat all others. The park was once a graveyard belonging to the 6th-century basilica that formerly stood here. Now, the church St-Julien-le-Pauvre (p256), begun in the 12th century, sits adjacent to the park. Its most notable feature is a black locust tree (Robinia pseudoacacia), allegedly planted in 1601. Held up by a couple of concrete stilts, it is generally accepted to be the oldest tree in Paris, having survived shell damage during World War I. The square owes its name to France’s first Labour Minister, René Viviani, who once spoke out in support of women’s suffrage – albeit, in a limited fashion.

Shakespeare and Company allowed young writers to sleep in the shop for free, asking them only to read, help at the shop and write a page-long autobiography.

DRINK Monk La Taverne de Cluny

Craft beer has infiltrated the Parisian scene, and this is the place for it on the Left Bank.  J8 ⌂ 51 Rue de la Harpe 75005 ∑ latavernede cluny.com

Le Piano Vache

Students and locals hit the bar at this rowdy watering hole.  K9 ⌂ 8 Rue Laplace 75005 § 01 46 33 75 03 ¢ Sun

Le Bombardier

Paris has a few pubs worthy of the name, but this one has earned its stripes.  K9 ⌂ 2 Place du Panthéon 75005 ∑ bombardierpub.fr

259

A SHORT WALK

EXPERIENCE Latin Quarter

LATIN QUARTER Distance 2 km (1.25 miles) Nearest Metro Cluny – La Sorbonne Time 20 minutes

Place St-Michel contains a fountain by Davioud. The bronze statue by Duret shows St Michael fighting the devil.

This riverside quarter, dating back to Roman times, acquired its name from early Latin‑speaking students. The area is generally associated with artists, intellectuals and the bohemian way of life, but it also has a history of political unrest. In 1871, Place St‑Michel became the centre of the Paris Commune, and in May 1968, it was the site of the student uprisings. Though now sufficiently chic to contain the homes of some of the establishment, the quarter is still full of book‑ shops and cafés, perfect for an afternoon of browsing.

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No 22 Rue St-Séverin is the narrowest house in Paris and used to be the residence of Abbé Prévost, author of Manon Lescaut.

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The iconic Shakespeare and Company bookshop and accompanying café Rue du Chat qui Pêche translates as “street of the fishing cat”.

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Shakespeare and Company at No 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a delightful, if chaotic, bookshop. Any books purchased here are stamped with Shakespeare & Co Kilomètre Zéro Paris (p258).

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A tree-lined avenue in the Jardin des Plantes

JARDIN DES PLANTES AND PLACE D’ITALIE This is one of the oldest areas in Paris, with a history dating back to ancient times. Part of the Roman settlement of Lutetia, it housed the large Arènes de Lutèce amphitheatre. The Rue Mouffetard was also established during the Roman era, and remained an important market street throughout the ensuing centuries. In 1626, Louis XIII founded the Jardin des Plantes as the royal medicinal plant gardens, and it soon became a scientific laboratory and botanical research centre – in the 18th century it was the stomping ground of naturalists Georges Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon and Jean-Baptiste Lamarck, whose research eventually influenced Charles Darwin and his On the Origin of Species. In more recent years, the area has become home to a sizable Muslim community, focused on the Grande Mosquée de Paris and the Institut du Monde Arabe cultural centre. 263

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The spectacular Grande Galerie de l’Évolution

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MUSÉUM NATIONAL D’HISTOIRE NATURELLE  L10 ⌂ Grande Galerie de l’Évolution and Galerie de Minéralogie et de Géologie: 36 Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire 75005; Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie: 2 Rue Buffon 75005 q Jussieu, Gare d’Austerlitz # 10am–6pm Wed–Mon ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ mnhn.fr

This collection of galleries in the Jardin des Plantes houses an impressive display of natural history specimens tracing the evolution of life on Earth. A botany research centre in the 17th century, this museum was founded in 1793 to include zoology. It has three galleries in the Jardin des Plantes: the Galerie de Minéralogie et de Géologie, with crystals, gems and meteorites; the Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie Comparée, housing dinosaur skeletons and fossils; and the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution, 266

featuring stuffed tigers and elephants. The 67 million specimens here form the world’s thirdlargest research collection. The Galerie des Enfants, in the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution, is an environment-focused exhibition for children. The museum also encompasses several other sites in the Jardin des Plantes, including the greenhouses and the zoo (p270).

Must See LA GALERIE DE PALÉONTOLOGIE ET D’ANATOMIE COMPARÉE Built in 1898 for the Exposition Universelle of 1900, the Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie Comparée mesmerizes young visitors with its collection of dinosaur skeletons, including a Triceratops and a Tyrannosaurus rex. Beginning in the Paleozoic Era, the exhibition takes visitors on a 540-million-year journey through each stage in the development of animal life. Keep a special eye out for the skeleton of Louis XV’s rhino; one of the museum’s longest-held specimens, it once lived at Versailles.

7,000 specimens are on display in the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution. TYRANNOSAURUS REX SKULL

2 1 A wide range of flora is on show in the greenhouses. 2 The museum sits amid the glorious Jardin des Plantes. 3 The zoo is famed for its orangutans.

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EXPERIENCE Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie

2'\ Jardin des Plantes  L9 ⌂ 57 Rue Cuvier/ 2 Rue Buffon 75005 q Jussieu, Gare d’Austerlitz # 8am–8pm daily (to 5:30pm winter) ∑ jardin desplantesdeparis.fr

A treasure to locals in the 5th arrondissement, the Jardin des Plantes comprises a museum, a zoo, botanical gardens, a science lab and a university research centre. Previously known as the Jardin du Roi, it started life as a medicinal herb garden created by Guy de la Brosse and Jean Hérouard, King Louis XIII’s physicians, in 1626. After opening to the public in 1640 and offering a free school of botany, chemistry and anatomy, it quickly attracted renowned scientists, such as the Comte de Buffon, whose studies were to shape Darwin’s views on evolution. Today, this popular botan­ ical garden is home to three galleries of the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (p266). It includes a small zoo (p270), a rose garden and a labyrinth that kids adore. As well as beautiful vistas and

walkways flanked by ancient trees and punctuated with statues, the park features a remarkable alpine garden with plants from the Alps, the Himalayas, Corsica and Morocco, and an unrivalled display of herbaceous and wild plants. It also has the first cedar of Lebanon planted in France, originally from Britain’s Kew Gardens.

3 Arènes de Lutèce  K9 ⌂ 49–59 Rue Monge/ 4 Rue des Arènes 75005 § 01 45 35 02 56 q Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine # 8/9am– 6/7:30/8:30pm, depending on the time of year

The remains of this vast Roman arena (Lutetia was the Roman name for Paris) date from the late 1st century AD. Its destruction began towards the end of the 3rd century at the hands of the Barbarians, and later, parts of it were used to build the walls of the Île de la Cité. The arena was then gradually buried and its exact location preserved only in old documents and the local name Clos des Arènes.

HIDDEN GEM

Dodo Manège This unique merry-goround in the Jardin des Plantes allows you to ride on a host of strange and exotic animals, including a dodo, a triceratops, a horned turtle and even a sivatherium, a giraffelike animal with antlers.

It was rediscovered in 1869 during the construction of Rue Monge and the allocation of building plots nearby. Action towards its restoration began with the campaigning of Victor Hugo (among others) in the 19th century, but work did not get underway until 1918. With a seating capacity of 15,000, arranged in 35 tiers, the original arena was used both for theatrical perform­ ances and as an amphitheatre for gladiator fights. This type of combined use was peculiar to Gaul (France), and the arena is similar to the other ones in Nîmes and Arles.

4'\-= Grande Mosquée de Paris  L10 ⌂ 2 bis Pl du Puits de l’Ermite 75005 (Turkish baths/tearoom: 39 Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire) q Jussieu, Place Monge # 9am–6pm Sat–Thu; baths: 10am–9pm Wed– Mon ¢ Muslim hols ∑ mosqueedeparis.net

Built in the 1920s in the Hispano­Moorish style,

People enjoying a stroll on a spring day in the Jardin des Plantes

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this complex is the spiritual centre of Paris’s Muslim community and the home of the Grand Imam. It comprises religious, educational and commercial sections; and at its heart is a mosque. Each of the mosque’s domes is decorated in a different style, and the minaret stands nearly 33 m (100 ft) high. Inside is a grand patio with mosaics on the walls and tracery on the arches. Once used only by scholars, the mosque’s place in Parisian life has grown over the years. The complex now houses Turkish baths (strictly for women only), as well as a tearoom and restaurant set in a peaceful tree-shaded courtyard. It serves Moorish specialities and makes a lovely spot for a glass of mint tea and sticky cakes.

5\= Rue Mouffetard  K10 ⌂ 75005 q CensierDaubenton, Place Monge # Market Place Monge: 7am–2:30pm Wed, Fri, Sun (to 3pm Sun)

A major thoroughfare since Roman times, when it linked Lutetia (Paris) and Rome, this street is one of the oldest in the city. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was known as the Grande Rue du Faubourg St-Marcel, and many of its buildings date from that time. Some of the small shops still have ancient painted signs, and some houses have mansard roofs.

Did You Know? Ernest Hemingway lived in the area in the 1920s, at 74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine.

The tranquil, tiled gardens of the Grande Mosquée de Paris

No 125 has an attractive, restored Louis XIII façade, and the entire front of No 134 is beautifully decorated with wild beasts, flowers and plants. No 69 sports an old shop sign featuring a carved oak tree, while at No 60, the Fontaine de Pot-de-Fer is a small fountain dating from Roman times. In the 17th century, it was connected to an aqueduct used by Marie de Médici to take water to

the Palais du Luxembourg and its gardens (p286). The area is known for its open-air markets, especially those in Place Monge (set around the Monge fountain) – a flurry of colours, flavours and delicious smells well worth a visit. At night, the street bustles with people enjoying the Greek, Italian, Argentinian and other cuisines on offer at the many small restaurants. 269

EXPERIENCE Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie

6\Place de la Contrescarpe

7"'\-= Institut du Monde Arabe

 K9 ⌂ 75005 q Place Monge

 L9 ⌂ 1 Rue des Fossés St-Bernard, Pl Mohammed V 75005 q Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine # Museum & temp exhibits: 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am–7pm Thu, Sat & Sun ∑ imarabe.org

At one time, this site lay outside the city walls. It gets its name from the backfilling of the moat that ran along Philippe Auguste’s wall. The present square was laid out in 1852, but the fountain was added in 1994. At No 1, there is a memorial to the old “pinecone club”; here, a group of writers known as La Pléiade used to meet in the 16th century. Four hundred years later, authors such as Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce and George Orwell also found the streets of this historically working-class neighbourhood a great source of inspiration. The area has always been used for meetings and festivals. Today, it still embodies old Paris, with its narrow cobblestoned streets and charming cafés, and is very lively at weekends.

This cultural institute was founded in 1980 by France and 20 Arab countries with the intention of fostering cultural links between the Arab world and the West. It is housed in a magnificent building designed by Jean Nouvel (who was also responsible for the Musée du quai Branly and the Philharmonie ), combining modern materials with the spirit of traditional Arab architecture. The white marble book tower, which can be seen through the glass of the west wall, spirals upwards, bringing to mind the minaret of a mosque. The emphasis that is traditionally placed on interior space in Arab architecture has been used here to create an enclosed courtyard reached by a narrow gap splitting the building in two.

Flamingos in the Ménagerie, France’s oldest public zoo

From floors four to seven, there’s a fascinating display of Islamic works of art from the 9th to the 19th centuries, including ceramics, sculpture, carpets and astrolabes. The centre also houses a library and media archive, and puts on a lively programme of lectures and concerts.

8"'\-= Ménagerie  L9 ⌂ 57 Rue Cuvier/Rue Buffon 75005 q Jussieu, Gare d’Austerlitz #  9am– 6pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6:30pm Sun & public hols (winter: earlier closure), advance booking recommended ∑ zoodujardindesplantes.fr

Opened in 1794, France’s oldest public zoo sits in the pleasant surroundings of the Jardin des Plantes (p268). The Ménagerie was set up during the Revolution to house the survivors from the

St-Médard and a Rue Mouffetard street market

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STAY Did You Know?

intervals, and there is a permanent exhibition of micro­arthropods (also known as creepy­crawlies).

The Ménagerie is the second-oldest zoo in the world after Vienna.

9 St-Médard

royal menagerie at Versailles – all four of them. The state then expanded the collection with animals rounded up from cir­ cuses and exotic creatures sent from abroad. Tragically, during the Prussian siege of Paris (1870–71), most of the animals were slaughtered in order to feed the hungry citizens. The zoo specializes in small mammals, insects, birds, pri­ mates and reptiles. It is a great favourite with children as it allows them to get close to the animals, and feeding times are especially popular. The big cat house contains panthers from China, and other attractions include a large monkey house, a waterfowl aviary, and wild sheep and goats. The displays in the vivarium (enclosures of live animals in their natural habitat) are changed at regular

 K10 ⌂ 141 Rue Mouffetard 75005 q Censier-Daubenton # 5–7:30pm Mon, 8am– 12:30pm & 2:30–7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–12:30pm & 4–8:15pm Sun (check website for Jul & Aug) ∑ saintmedard.org

The origins of this church go back to the 9th century. St Médard, counsellor to the Merovingian kings, was known for giving a wreath of white roses to young girls noted for their virtue. The churchyard became notorious in the 18th century as the centre of the cult of the Convulsionnaires, whose fits were brought on by the contemplation of miracle cures. The interior has many paint­ ings, including the 17th­century St Joseph Walking with the Christ Child by Francisco de Zurbarán, and the organ loft is adorned with Renaissance statues.

Hôtel des Grandes Écoles

A garden terrace and old-world feel make this a perpetual favourite.  K9 ⌂ 75 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine 75005 ∑ hoteldesgrandes ecoles.com ¡¡¡

Seven Hôtel

Swanky décor sets this modern hotel apart from most in the area.  J10 ⌂ 20 Rue Berthollet 75005 ∑ sevenhotel paris.com ¡¡¡

Hôtel Saint Marcel

A great location and amenities such as a wine bar stocked with the family’s own wine make this hotel a real bargain.  L11 ⌂ 43 Blvd StMarcel 75013 ∑ hotelsaint-marcel-paris.com ¡¡¡

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10 Quai St-Bernard

EXPERIENCE Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie

 M9 ⌂ 75005 q Gare d’Austerlitz

Running along the river from the Pont de Sully as far as the Pont d’Austerlitz is the peaceful Quai St-Bernard. Not always so sedate, Quai St-Bernard was famous during the 17th century as a spot for nude bathing, until scandalized public opinion made it illegal. The quay is studded with contemporary sculptures, but its main draw is the green space known as the Jardin Tino-Rossi, named for the Coriscan singer who recorded “Petit Papa Noël” in 1946, one of France’s bestselling songs ever. The park is alive with music in the summer, from French folk to salsa and tango. Dancers of all levels meet here at night, turning the park into an outdoor dance hall. Butting up to the left-hand corner of the Institut du Monde Arabe, the Pont de Sully links the Île St-Louis with both banks of the Seine. Opened in 1877 and built of cast iron, the Pont de Sully is not an especially beautiful

The striking façade of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et du Design

structure. Despite this, it is well worth pausing for a moment on the bridge for a fabulous view of NotreDame rising dramatically behind the graceful Pont de la Tournelle.

Did You Know? The Bateau Phare was a working Irish lightship from 1955 to 1975s.

11 \ Quai d’Austerlitz  M10 ⌂ 75013 q Gare d’Austerlitz ∑ citemodedesign.fr

Stretching along the Left Bank from Gare d’Austerlitz towards the Bibliothèque, this riverfront promenade is closed to trafc and offers a pleasant stroll with views of the Seine. Several boats host cafés serving coffee and wine. The impressive contemporary cultural centre known as Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et du Design, perches over the Seine, with its green undulating façade looking northwards. Housed in a former industrial warehouse, it is home to an assortment of bars, cafés and restaurants, as well as a fashion institute, and hosts regular exhibitions. Further south, along Quai François Mauriac, is the Port

de la Gare where, in the summer, outdoor restaurants and cafés line the riverfront. Le Bateau Phare, a floating bar, restaurant and concert space, and the Piscine Josephine Baker, a floating public pool, also moor here year-round.

12 " ' Mobilier National et La Manufacture des Gobelins  K11 ⌂ 42 Ave des Gobelins 75013 q Les Gobelins # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (temporary exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ mobiliernational. culture. gouv.fr

Originally a dyeing workshop set up in about 1440 by the

Gobelin brothers, the building became a tapestry factory early in the 17th century. Louis XIV took it over in 1662 and gathered together the greatest craftsmen of the day – carpet-weavers, cabinetmakers and silversmiths – to furnish his new palace at Versailles (p296). Working under the direction of court painter Charles Le Brun, 250 Flemish weavers laid the foundations for the factory’s international reputation. Today, weavers continue to work in the traditional way but with modern designs, including those of Picasso and Matisse. Guided tours on Wednesday afternoons can be booked via the website.

e'\Station F  N11 ⌂ 5 Parvis Alan Turing 75013 q Chevaleret ∑ stationf.co

This converted train station, which opened in 2017, houses Paris’s burgeoning innovation scene. The world’s largest “start-up campus”, Station F

SHOP Carl Marletti

Marché Place Monge

Daring confectionaries fill Marletti’s celebrated patisserie, with ephemeral favourites like the fraisier popping up each year.

Vendors stock fresh produce that changes with the seasons at this outdoor market with a focus on quality over quantity.

 K10 ⌂ 51 Rue Censier 75005 ∑ carlmarletti.com

 K10 ⌂ 1 Place Monge 75005 # 7am–2:30pm Wed, Fri & Sun

Androuet

Mococha

Expert artisan cheeses from here have pleased Parisians since 1909, including classics such as Camembert.

Surprising combinations deck the shelves of this boutique, run by a team of inspired chocolatiers.

 K10 ⌂ 134 Rue Mouffetard 75005 ∑ androuet.com

 K10 ⌂ 89 Rue Mouffetard 75005 ∑ chocolatsmococha.com

is as long as the Eiffel Tower is high. The venue hosts a variety of events about business and technology, with registration available on its website. Visitors can take a tour of the new ventures or cosy up with entrepreneurs at the public

café. Locals flock here for the various Italian food options served at La Felicità, an enormous, trendy cafeteriastyle eatery. Be prepared to queue and be quick to grab one of the many communal tables available.

EXPERIENCE Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie

14 " ' \ - = Bibliothèque Nationale de France  N11 ⌂ Quai François Mauriac 75013 q Bibliothèque FrançoisMitterrand # 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 1–7pm Sun # Public hols ∑ bnf.fr

The national library collection dates back to the 1300s, when King Charles V began a library at the Louvre. Royals added to the shelves, even invol­ untarily, as Revolutionaries confiscated thousands of volumes from aristocrats during the French Revolution. Nowadays, the symbol of the BNF is the ultra­modern building rising over the Quai François Mauriac. The struc­ ture looks like four giant glass books opening onto a court­ yard, and is largely used by scholars. Commissioned by President Mitterrand and completed in 1996, it houses the world’s largest selection of medieval manuscripts and boasts over 14 million books in total. Temporary exhibi­ tions take place throughout the year, as well as in the other BNF sites located around the city.

15 \ = Olympiades  N12 ⌂ 75013 q Olympiades

This modern corner of Paris, with several impressive street­ art murals, is part of the

A water fountain in Chinatown

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city’s larger vision of urban development. It is marked by the Olympiades towers, an innovative housing complex where each tower is named after a different Olympic host city. Today, the area is largely known as Paris’s largest Chinatown, where the annual Chinese New Year parade takes place in February. Parisians head here for delicious Chinese and Vietnamese food, includ­ ing some of the best bo bun in the entire city. Its affordable fare and grocery stores, such as Tang Frères, are huge draws for anyone interested in a break from steak-frites and cheese. The district is bordered on the south by the tramline that stretches around southern Paris.

16 " ' Fondation Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé  L11 ⌂ 73 Ave des Gobelins 75013 q Place d’Italie, Les Gobelins # Salle Charles Pathé & Exhibitions: 1–8pm Tue, 1–7pm Wed–Fri, 11:30am– 7pm Sat; research centre: by appt only ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ fondation-jerome seydoux-pathe.com

The headquarters of the Fondation Jérôme Seydoux­ Pathé sits on the site of a mid­19th­century theatre that was transformed into one of Paris’s first cinemas in the early 1900s. Pathé, a major French film production and distribution company, is the second­oldest operating film company in the world. The foundation is dedicated to the preservation of its legacy and to promoting cinematography. The building has a 68­seat screening room for silent

Dominique Perrault’s modern Bibliothèque Nationale de France

Did You Know? The Bibliothèque Nationale de France is one of the oldest libraries in the world.

films, plus temporary and permanent collections of films, cameras, projectors, programmes and posters dating back to 1896. It is a treasure trove for film enthusiasts and researchers. Guided tours are held on Saturdays at noon.

17 \ - = Butte-aux-Cailles  K12 ⌂ 75013 q Place d’Italie, Corvisart

Named after landowner Pierre Caille who grew grapes here in the 1500s, this little hill was once an important area for tanneries and other industry. The La Bièvre river, which now runs underground, used to run right through it. Limestone quarries

EAT underground made the land unsuitable for Haussmann’s large construction projects, and as a result the area has more of a village feel than most parts of Paris – the Rue des Cinq-Diamants is a great example of this. Interestingly, it was in this area, in 1783, that the first official hot-air balloon trip landed successfully. Today

the district is full of local character in its bars and cafés; they are relatively cheap, making the area especially popular among young university types. The area is also an excellent place to discover some great street art, with lots of examples of the work of tagger Miss.Tic.

Café Delmas

Traditional French café overlooking a square.  K9 ⌂ 2 Place de la Contrescarpe 75005 ∑ cafedelmas.com ¡¡¡

Au P’tit Grec

A popular spot serving huge take-away crêpes.  K10 ⌂ 68 Rue Mouffetard 75005 # auptitgrec.com ¡¡¡

Hugo & Co

Convivial restaurant serving chic dishes.  K9 ⌂ 48 Rue Monge, 75005 ¢ Sat & Sun ∑ tomygousset.com/ hugo-and-co ¡¡¡

Café de la Grande Mosquée

A lovely tea room attached to the mosque.  L10 ⌂ 39 Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire 75005

The dome of Ste-Anne-de-laButtes-aux-Cailles church in the picturesque Butte-aux-Cailles district

¡¡¡

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A well-to-do residential patchwork of 19th- and early-20th-century buildings, this area also has one or two surprises up its sleeve, including a Roman amphitheatre and a Hispano-Moorish mosque. The area began life in 1626 as a royal medicinal herb garden, the work of two physicians to Louis XIII, Jean Hérouard and Guy de la Brosse. The herb garden and gardens of various religious houses gave the region a rural character. In the 19th century, the population and thus the area expanded and it became more built up, transforming into the area you see today.

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Pot-de-Fer fountain is one of 14 that Marie de Médici had built on the Left Bank in 1624 as a source of water for her palace. The fountain was rebuilt in 1671.

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Locals flock to the market street of Rue Mouffetard, one of the oldest in the city, where vendors’ displays spill onto the cobblestones in a colourful spread of fresh produce, pastries and wine (p269).

Metro Place Monge

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Taking time out on the cobbled square of Place de la Contrescarpe

The church of St-Médard dates to the mid-1400s. In 1784, the choir was revamped and the nave’s windows replaced with contemporary stained glass (p271).

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The Arènes de Lutèce, a Roman amphitheatre, was used for burials in the 4th century (p268). JARDIN DES PLANTES AND PLACE D’ITALIE

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The Cuvier Fountain is a memorial to naturalist Georges Cuvier. It was erected in 1840 by P Vigouroux, with figures carved by Jean-Jacques Feuchère.

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The Hispano-Moorish Grande Mosquée de Paris and its garden

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Locator Map For more detail see p264

Did You Know? The Grande Mosquée honours Muslims who died on French battlefields during World War I.

The Grande Mosquée de Paris, the centre of Paris’s Muslim community, includes within its walls a Turkish bath, and a Moorish café and restaurant (p268).

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The Fontaine Médicis in the Jardin du Luxembourg

MONTPARNASSE AND JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG Montparnasse takes its name from the Mount Parnassus of Ancient Greece, the home of Apollo, god of poetry and music. In the first three decades of the 20th century, Montparnasse was a thriving artistic literary centre. Many modern painters and sculptors, new novelists and poets were drawn to this bohemian area, where they would frequent cafés such as La Closerie des Lilas and La Coupole. The great epoch ended with World War II, and change continued with the destruction of many ateliers and the construction of the soaring Tour Montparnasse, Paris’s tallest office tower, which heralded the more modern quarter. The Jardin du Luxembourg was initiated by Marie de Médici in 1612, inspired by the Boboli Gardens of her native Florence. Baron Haussmann redeveloped the area around the park in the 19th century; his changes were deeply unpopular with the public for encroaching on the gardens and reducing their size. Nonetheless, the area has retained its own unique charm of winding streets, beautiful buildings, bookshops and art galleries. 279

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0 Musée du Luxembourg q Jardin du Luxembourg w Musée Zadkine

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ST-GERMAINST-GERMAINDES-PRÉS DES-PRÉS

EXPERIENCE Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg

Montparnasse, the second largest cemetery in Paris after Père Lachaise

1

CIMETIÈRE DU MONTPARNASSE  G10 ⌂ 3 Blvd Edgar Quinet 75014 q Edgar Quinet @ 28, 58, 68, 82, 83, 88, 91 to Port Royal W Port Royal # Mid-Mar–mid-Nov: 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–6pm Sat, 9am–6pm Sun (mid-Nov–mid-Mar: to 5:30pm)

This cemetery is the resting place of many illustrious Parisians. Sculptures nestle among the funerary art, creating a peaceful haven in the tree-lined grounds. The Montparnasse Cemetery was planned by Napoleon outside the city walls to replace the numerous, congested, small cemeteries within the old city, viewed as a health hazard at the turn of the 19th century. It was opened in 1824 and contains the graves of many notable, particularly Left Bank, personalities. Like all French cemeteries, it is divided into rigidly aligned paths. The Rue Émile Richard cuts it into two parts, the Grand Cimetière and the Petit Cimetière. 282

The Kiss by Brancusi, who is buried just off Rue Émile Richard

Did You Know? The cemetery’s tower is the remains of a 17th-century windmill.

Notable Residents

Must See

Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir ▲ The famous existentialist couple, undisputed leaders of the post-War literary scene, lie here close to their Left Bank haunts.

Jean Seberg ▶ The Hollywood actress, chosen by Jean-Luc Godard as the star of his film À Bout de Souffle, was the epitome of American blonde beauty, youth and candour.

Serge Gainsbourg The French singer, composer and pop icon of the 1970s and 80s is best known for his wistful and irreverent songs. He was married to the actress Jane Birkin.

Samuel Beckett The great Irish playwright, renowned for Waiting for Godot, spent most of his life in Paris. He died in 1989. ◀

Man Ray The American photographer immortalized the Montparnasse artistic and café scene in the 1920s and 30s.

CHARLES BAUDELAIRE

André Citroën

The cemetery contains the cenotaph of Charles Baudelaire, the great poet and critic. Baudelaire, who was born and died in Paris, shocked the world with his frank and decadent collection of poems Les Fleurs du Mal, published in 1857. His work has had a widespread literary influence, and has even inspired rock stars such as Mick Jagger.

▶ The engineer and industrialist, who died in 1935, founded the famous French car firm.

283

EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg

2"\Tour Montparnasse  F10 ⌂ 33 Ave du Maine 75015 q MontparnasseBienvenüe # 10am– 10:30pm Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun ∑ tourmont parnasse56.com

This was Europe’s largest office block when it was built in 1973. At 210 m (690 ft) high, it totally dominates the area’s skyline. A lift takes you up to the obser­ vation floor with its panoramic bar. For the best views you’ll need to climb up the last three floors to the open­air obser­ vatory. The views from here are spectacular – up to 40 km (25 miles) on a clear day. The tower will be closed for major renovations – current plans include the installation of solar panels and a green roof – in the run­up to the Olympics from some time in 2021 to 2024. Tour Montparnasse, as seen from the Eiffel Tower

3 Notre-Damedu-Travail  F11 ⌂ 36 Rue Guilleminot 75014 q Pernety # 7:30am– 7:45pm Mon–Fri, 9am– 7:30pm Sat, 8:30am– 7:30pm Sun ∑ notredame dutravail.net

This church dates from 1901 and is made of an unusual mix of materials: stone, rubble and bricks over a riveted steel­and­iron framework. It was the creation of Father Soulange­Bodin, a priest who organized cooperatives and sought to reconcile labour and capitalism. Local parishioners raised the money for its construction, but lack of funds meant that many features, such as the bell towers, were never built. On the façade hangs the Sebastopol Bell,

a trophy from the Crimean War given to the people of the Plaisance district by Napoleon III. The Art Nouveau interior has been restored and features paintings of saints.

4"' Institut Pasteur  E10 ⌂ 25–28 Rue du Docteur Roux 75015 q Pasteur ∑ pasteur.fr

The Institut Pasteur, France’s leading medical research centre, was founded by the scientist Louis Pasteur in 1888–9. He discovered the process of milk pasteurization, as well as vaccines against rabies and anthrax. In 2020, the institute set up a coronavirus task force to launch and coordinate COVID­19 research projects. The centre houses a museum that includes a

EAT & DRINK La Coupole

An Art Nouveau brasserie serving up meaty classics.

One of the skull-lined underground passages in the Catacombes de Paris

reconstruction of Pasteur’s apartment and laboratory. Pasteur’s tomb is in a base­ ment crypt built in the style of a small Byzantine chapel. The museum is currently closed for renovation and will reopen in late 2024.

5"' Catacombes de Paris  H11 ⌂ 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy 75014 q Denfert-Rochereau # 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sun, advance booking required ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ catacombes.paris.fr

In 1786, a monumental project began here: the removal of the millions of skulls and bones from the unsanitary city cemetery in Les Halles to the quarries at the base of the three “mountains”: Montparnasse, Montrouge and Montsouris. Initially the bones were placed haphazardly, but from the early 19th century they were used to adorn the walls in decorative patterns. During World War II, the French Resistance set up its headquarters here. Above the door outside are the words “Stop! This is the empire of death.” Visiting the catacombs has become very popular, so reserving your ticket well in

advance is advised. Guided tours in English are held at 3pm on Tuesdays and Fridays.

6"' Fondation Cartier  H11 ⌂ 261 Blvd Raspail 75014 q Raspail # 11am– 8pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Tue) ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ fondationcartier.com

This foundation for art and architecture is in a building designed by Jean Nouvel. He has created an air of trans­ parency and light, as well as incorporating a cedar of Lebanon, which was planted in 1823 by François­René de Chateaubriand. The structure complements the nature of the exhibitions of progressive art, which showcase personal, group or thematic displays.

7 Musée Libération Leclerc Moulin  H11 ⌂ 4 Ave du Colonel Rol-Tanguy – Place Denfert Rochereau 75014 q Denfert-Rochereau # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun ∑ museeliberation-leclercmoulin.paris.fr

Opened in 2019, on the 75th anniversary of Paris’s

 G10 ⌂ 102 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014 ∑ lacoupole-paris.com ¡¡¡

Closerie des Lilas A classic brasserie, once frequented by Hemingway.

 H10 ⌂ 171 Blvd du Montparnasse 75006 ∑ closeriedeslilas.fr ¡¡¡

Les Papilles

Wine bottles line the walls of this friendly local.  J9 ⌂ 30 Rue GayLussac 75005 ¢ Sun, Mon ∑ lespapillesparis.fr ¡¡¡

liberation, the Museum of the Liberation of Paris joins the Musée du Général Leclerc and Musée de Jean Moulin in a new facility to celebrate the city’s emanci­ pation during World War II. The museum displays some 7,000 objects, with original newspapers, photos and audio displays allowing visitors to relive this pivotal time in French history. If you head underground, you can see a reconstruction of the command centre during the Liberation, where Colonel Rol­Tanguy directed Parisian forces at the end of the German Occupation. Not only interesting and engaging, the entire collection is also free. 285

EXPERIENCE Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg

8"' Musée Antoine Bourdelle  F10 ⌂ 18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015 q MontparnasseBienvenüe # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols ∑ bourdelle.paris.fr

The prolific sculptor Antoine Bourdelle lived and worked in the studio here from 1884 until his death in 1929. The house, studio and garden are now a museum. Among the 900 sculptures on display are the original plaster casts of his monumental works planned for wide public squares. They include the group of sculptures for the relief decoration of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. Frequent temporary exhibitions, for which there is an entry fee, complement the free permanent collection.

9' Palais du Luxembourg  H9 ⌂ 15 Rue de Vaugirard 75006 q Odéon W Luxembourg ∑ senat.fr/visite

Now the home of the French Senate, this palace was designed by Salomon de Brosse in the style of Florence’s Pitti Palace to remind Marie de Médici, widow of Henri IV, of her native town. By the time it was finished (1631), Marie had been banished, but it remained a royal palace until the Revolution. In World War II, it was the headquarters of the Luftwaffe. The building is currently accessible to individual visitors only during the European Heritage Days, which take place on the third weekend in September.

0"-= Musée du Luxembourg  H9 ⌂ 19 Rue de Vaugirard 75006 q StSulpice W Luxembourg # Times vary depending on exhibitions; check website ¢ 1 May & 25 Dec ∑ museeduluxembourg.fr

Orginally housed in the east wing of the Palais du Luxembourg, France’s first public gallery moved to this building, the palace’s grand former orangery, in 1886. The collection contained works by renowned artists such as Leonardo da Vinci, Van Dyck and Rembrandt, many of which have since been moved to the Louvre. Following extensive renovations, today the museum hosts impressive temporary exhibitions on leading artists, including Rubens, Cézanne and Pissaro.

One of the many statues in the Musée Antoine Bourdelle

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q'Jardin du Luxembourg  H9 ⌂ Blvd St-Michel/ Rue de Vaugirard/Rue Guynemer 75006 q Odéon W Luxembourg # Dawn– dusk daily ∑ senat.fr/visite

A green oasis covering 25 ha (60 acres) in the heart of the Left Bank, the Jardin du Luxembourg is one of the most popular parks in Paris. The beautifully landscaped gardens are centred around the Palais du Luxembourg and feature an octagonal basin that is often surrounded by children sailing their wooden toy boats. The Jardin du Luxembourg was created at the request of Marie de Médici, who had it designed as a fitting reminder of the Boboli Gardens at the Pitti Palace, in her home town of Florence. The original garden measured 8 ha (20 acres); what remains of it today are the large pond, the Fontaine Médicis and 2,000 elm trees.

The stately Palais du Luxembourg in the gorgeous Jardin du Luxembourg

A green oasis covering 25 ha (60 acres) in the heart of the Left Bank, the Jardin du Luxembourg is one of the most popular parks in Paris. Statues were placed throughout the park in 1848. They include those of the queens of France, famous French women – Sainte Geneviève is an impressive example – and, later, famous writers and artists, too, totalling 106 statues. The garden is a great space for children, with activities such as a puppet theatre starring the famous character Guignol, a fenced-in playground, a carousel and tennis courts. Adults can play chess or bridge, wander through the open-air photography exhibitions or grab a chair and enjoy a free concert.

w"' Musée Zadkine  H10 ⌂ 100 bis Rue d’Assas 75006 q NotreDame-des-Champs # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols ∑ zadkine. paris.fr

The Russian-born sculptor Ossip Zadkine lived here from 1928 until his death in 1967.

The small house, studio and garden contain his works. Here he produced his great commemorative sculpture Ville Détruite, commissioned by Rotterdam after World War II, and two monuments to Vincent van Gogh. The museum’s works span the development of Zadkine’s style, from his Cubist beginnings to Expressionism and Abstractionism.

FONTAINE MÉDICIS This Baroque fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg, thought to have been designed by Salomon de Brosse, was built in 1624 in the style of an Italian grotto. It stands at the end of a long pond filled with goldfish. The mythological figures were added much later by Auguste Ottin (1866) and represent Polyphemus discovering the lovers Acis and Galatea.

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A SHORT WALK

MONTPARNASSE Distance 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Nearest Metro Gaîté Time 25 minutes

Renowned for its mix of art and high living (Picasso, Hemingway, Matisse and Modigliani were frequent visitors to the area), Montparnasse offers a pleasant mixture of bars, cafés and art galleries. Take a detour on this walk by visiting the Cimetière du Montparnasse, where, along tree-lined avenues, you’ll be able to pay your respects to many Parisian and international icons.

Did You Know? Artists Giacometti and Modigliani were students at the Académie de la Grande-Chaumière.

The Tour Montparnasse, one of Europe’s tallest tower blocks, rests on 56 piles that extend 62 m (203 ft) below the surface (p284).

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The Art Deco-style interior of the iconic La Coupole

The statue of Balzac by Auguste Rodin was erected in 1939, and stands 3 m (10 ft) tall.

Rue Bréa has a variety of shops, restaurants and hotels, all within a 90-m (300-ft) stretch.

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La Coupole, a traditional brasserie-style café, with its large enclosed terrace, opened in 1927 and became a famous meeting place for artists and writers (p285).

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The stunning Fondation Louis Vuitton

BEYOND THE CENTRE

Must Sees 1 Bois de Boulogne

2 Château and Bois

de Vincennes

3 The Palace and

The area beyond the Périphérique (ring road) once served as a country retreat for the aristocracy, with the medieval Château de Vincennes as the royal residence. It was usurped in the 17th century by Louis XIV’s spectacular palace at Versailles, where the excessive displays of opulence were brought to a violent end during the Revolution of 1789. An industrial boom in the 19th century was followed by a number of large-scale construction projects in the 20th century, including blocks of social housing and the Périphérique. Today, the varied neighbourhoods of the suburbs are home to the vast majority of Paris’s citizens.

Gardens of Versailles

4 Disneyland® Paris

Experience More 5 La Défense

6 Musée Marmottan Monet 7 Basilique-Cathédrale

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Disneyland® Paris 30 km (19 miles)

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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre

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BOIS DE BOULOGNE ⌂ 75016 q Porte Maillot, Porte Dauphine, Porte d’Auteuil, Les Sablons # 24 hrs daily; gardens: 9:30am–dusk daily ∑ Jardin d’Acclimatation: jardindacclimatation.fr; Théâtre de Verdure du Jardin Shakespeare: jardinshakespeare.com; Fondation Louis Vuitton: fondationlouisvuitton.fr

Between the western edges of Paris and the Seine, this 865-ha (2,137-acre) park offers greenery for strolling and a boating lake, plus opportunities for horse-riding, picnicking or a day at the races. It is a favourite outdoor retreat with Parisians, especially on summer weekends. The remains of a royal hunting that puts on Shakespeare, dance ground, the many beautiful areas and musical performances around the Bois include the in summer. The charming Did You Know? Hippodrome de Longchamp Bagatelle Gardens feature racecourse, the Jardin architectural follies and an The orangery was built in d’Acclimatation amusement 18th-century orangery famous 64 days as a bet between park and Roland Garros, home for its rose garden. Opened in the Comte d’Artois and to the French Tennis Open 2014, Frank Gehry’s stunning Marie-Antoinette. championships. Hidden within Fondation Louis Vuitton is its borders is the Théâtre de a cultural centre dedicated Verdure, an open-air playhouse to modern art. 292

Must See

Boats for hire on the Lac Inférieur, the largest of the two lakes in the park

EAT Le Franck

A high-end restaurant within the Fondation Louis Vuitton. ⌂ 8 Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, 75116 ¢ Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun dinner ∑ restaurantlefrank.fr ¡¡¡

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1 The “sails” of the Fondation Louis Vuitton are made of 3,600 glass panels. 2 The Château de Bagatelle was built by Louis XVI’s brother, the Comte d’ Artois. 3 A statue of French tennis legend Henri Cochet stands outside Roland Garros.

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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre

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CHÂTEAU ET BOIS DE VINCENNES ⌂ 1 Ave de Paris, 94300 Vincennes q Château de Vincennes W Vincennes # Château: mid-May–mid-Sep: 10am–6pm daily (mid-Sep–mid-May: to 5pm daily); Bois de Vincennes: 24 hrs daily ¢ Château: 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec ∑ chateau-de-vincennes.fr

Guarded by an imposing medieval keep, the sprawling Bois de Vincennes is a verdant wonderland. With boating lakes, formal gardens and numerous walking and cycling trails, it is the perfect playground in which to escape the city. The Château de Vincennes was once a royal residence; it was here that Henry V of England died of dysentery in 1422. Abandoned when the Palace of Versailles was completed, the château was subsequently converted into an arsenal by Napoleon. The 14th-century keep is the tallest in Europe and is a fine example of medieval military architecture. It houses the château’s museum. The Gothic chapel features beautiful stone rose windows, while two 17th-century pavilions house a fascinating museum of army insignia. Once a royal hunting ground, the Bois de Vincennes was given to the City of Paris by Napoleon III in 1860. Baron Haussmann’s landscape architect added a number of ornamental lakes and cascades. Among the forest’s main attractions is the largest funfair in France (open from Palm Sunday to end of May) and the renovated Parc Zoologique de Paris.

Once a royal hunting ground, the Bois de Vincennes was given to the City of Paris by Napoleon III in 1860.

The château, used as a prison from the 16th to the 19th centuries

EAT Le Château des Vignerons

French dishes with an international twist. ⌂ 17 Rue des Vignerons, 94300 Vincennes ¢ Sun ∑ chateau desvignerons.com ¡¡¡

Lake Daumesnil, one of four artificial lakes in the park

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Must See

Did You Know? Henry V’s corpse was boiled in the château's kitchen to prepare it for shipping back to England.

The Amazon-Guyana biozone at the Parc Zoologique de Paris

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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre

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THE PALACE AND GARDENS OF VERSAILLES ⌂ Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles @ Versailles Express from Eiffel Tower W Versailles–Château–Rive Gauche, Versailles Chantiers # Opening hours vary; check website for details ¢ Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ chateauversailles.fr

This stunning royal residence is overwhelming in its scale and opulence. The spectacular, lavishly decorated palace and vast gardens, complete with fountains, landscaped topiary and even a model farm, make Versailles the top day trip from the centre of Paris. The Palace Starting around 1662 with his father’s hunting lodge, Louis XIV built the largest palace in Europe, housing up to 20,000 people at a time. Architects Louis Le Vau and Jules Hardouin-Mansart designed the buildings, which grew as a series of “envelopes” around the lodge. The Opera House was added in 1770. The sumptuous main apartments are on the first floor of the vast château complex. These were richly decorated by Charles Le Brun with coloured marbles, stone and wood carvings, murals, velvet, silver and gilded furniture. The climax is the Hall of Mirrors, where 357 great mirrors face 17 tall arched windows. The palace and gardens of Versailles, the epitome of royal grandeur

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TOP FIVE PALACE ROOMS

Salon de Vénus A statue of Louis XIV stands amid this room’s rich marble décor. Salon d’Apollon Designed by Le Brun and dedicated to the god Apollo, this was Louis XIV’s throne room. Salon de la Guerre The room’s theme of war is dramatically reinforced by the stuccoed relief of Louis XIV riding to victory. Hall of Mirrors This glittering room stretches 73 m (240 ft) along the west façade. Queen’s Bedchamber In this room, the queens of France gave birth to the royal children in full public view.

Must See

1

3 1 The Marble Courtyard is decorated with marble paving, urns, busts and a gilded balcony. 2 Mansart’s last great work, the two-storey Baroque Chapelle Royale was Louis XIV’s final addition to Versailles.

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3 The South Wing’s original apartments for great nobles were replaced by Louis-Philippe’s museum of French history.

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The formal gardens, complete with geometric paths and shrubberies

The Gardens The grounds of Versailles are no less impressive than the palace. Designed by the great landscaper André Le Nôtre, the formal gardens are a masterpiece: sculptural fountains and secluded groves sit amid geometric flower beds and hedges. The 1.7-km- (1-mile-) long Grand Canal leads from the gardens to the enormous park, which features wooded areas and agricultural fields delineated by a network of footpaths. The grounds also encompass the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon palaces, built as private apartments for Louis XIV and Louis V, as well as the Queen’s Hamlet – a life-size model village built for MarieAntoinette that was also a functioning farm.

The formal gardens are a masterpiece: sculptural fountains and secluded groves sit amid geometric flower beds and hedges. 298

The Grand Trianon, built by Louis XIV in 1687 to escape the rigours of court life

Must See

EAT Ore

This Alain Ducasse dining experience in the Pavillon Dufour is as luxurious as the château it occupies. ⌂ Château de Versailles, 78000 Versailles ∑ ducassechateauversailles.com ¡¡¡

Angelina

The iconic tea house has two outposts in Versailles – one in the Pavillon d’Orléans and one at the Petit Trianon – both serving a selection of snacks and delectable pastries.

Did You Know? One-third of the estate’s budget went to the fountains. Today they only go on during the summer months.

⌂ Château de Versailles, 78000 Versailles ∑ angelina-paris.fr ¡¡¡

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3 1 The cottages in the Queen’s Hamlet were inspired by rural French architecture. Although rustic on the exterior, inside they were richly furnished. 2 During the Grands Eaux Nocturnes in the summer, the gardens of Versailles come alive with superb illuminations and installations.

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3 Built in 1762 as a retreat for Louis XV, the Petit Trianon became a favourite of Marie-Antoinette.

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DISNEYLAND® PARIS

⌂ 77777 Marne-la-Vallée @ Disneyland® Paris Express from Gare du Nord, Opéra, Châtelet and the Eiffel Tower W Marne-la-Vallée–Chessy # Disneyland® Park: 10am– 11pm in high season (closes earlier in low season); Walt Disney Studios® Park: 10am–9pm in high season (closes earlier in low season) ∑ disneylandparis.com

Unbeatable for complete escapism, combined with vibrant excitement and sheer energy, Disneyland® Paris offers extreme rides, gentle experiences and phenomenal visual effects. The resort is built on a massive scale – the 2,230-ha (5,510-acre) site encompasses two theme parks; seven hotels; a shopping, dining and entertainment village; an ice-skating rink; a lake; two convention centres; and a golf course. The theme parks are split into Disneyland® Park and the Walt Disney Studios® Park. The former, with more than 60 rides and attractions, celebrates Hollywood folklore and fantasies, while the latter highlights the ingenuity involved in cinema, animation and television production with interactive exhibits and live shows. 300

DISNEY VILLAGE The fun does not have to end when the two parks close. Disney Village offers a host of evening entertainment options – including a cinema, concerts and Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show – as well as numerous restaurants and shops. Seasonal events take place all year, including celebrations for Easter, Halloween and New Year.

Must See

Did You Know? Sleeping Beauty’s castle was designed to contrast with the grey Parisian skies.

The view from Alice’s Curious Labyrinth in Disneyland® Park

1 Crush’s Coaster® is one of the many thrilling rides in Walt Disney Studios® Park. 2 Take a spin in the Mad Hatter’s Tea Cups in Disneyland® Park's Fantasyland®. 3 The parade in Disneyland® Park features characters from films such as Toy Story.

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DISNEYLAND® PARK Disneyland® Park is com­ prised of five areas. Main Street represents a fantasy small­town America, its Victorian façades fronting interesting stores and food outlets. Frontierland®, a homage to America’s Wild West, hosts some of the park’s most popular attrac­ tions, while wild rides and

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Audio­Animatronics are the draw at Adventureland®. The buildings in Fantasyland® are modelled on those in animated movies, and contain many attractions for younger children. Science fiction and the future are the themes at Discoveryland®, home to the popular multi­loop ride Star Wars Hyperspace Mountain.

The park, home to rides such as Indiana Jones™ and the Temple of Peril (below)

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RIDES IN DISNEYLAND® PARK

Star Wars Hyperspace Mountain Formerly known as Space Mountain®, this iconic rollercoaster draws crowds from the outset but at the end of the day you can often walk straight on. Big Thunder Mountain This wild rollercoaster ride on a speeding runaway mine train is a crowd favourite. Pirates of the Caribbean This boat ride takes you on a thrilling journey through underground prisons and past fighting galleons.

Must See

The entrance to Walt Disney Studios® Park, with the Earful Tower

WALT DISNEY STUDIOS® PARK

The four-wheeled Cars Quatre Roues Rallye attraction

The underwater animated world of Crush’s Coaster®

The four production zones at Walt Disney Studios® Park reveal the secrets of movie­ making. Inside the giant studio gates on the Front Lot, Disney Studio 1 houses a film set boulevard, complete with stylized street façades and venues such as the 1930s­style Club Swankedero. Toon Studio® contains rides and exhibits inspired by various iconic Disney and Pixar characters, and includes La Place de Rémy, home to the 4D experience Ratatouille: A Recipe for Adventure. The Production Courtyard® offers the chance to see behind the scenes on the

Mickey Mouse casting his magic over the Toon Studio® zone

Studio Tram Tour®, among other attractions; while the Backlot focuses on special effects, film music recording and dare­devil stunts.

EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre

5"\ La Défense ⌂ 1 Parvis de la Défense q/W La Défense # La Grande Arche: 10am–7pm daily (Apr–Aug: to 8pm) ∑ parisladefense.com

This skyscraper business district on the western edge of Paris is one of Europe’s largest modern office devel­ opments and covers 80 ha (198 acres). It was launched in 1958 to create a new home for leading French and multi­ national companies. Since then, a major artistic scheme has transformed several of the squares into fascinating open­air museums. In 1989, one of Paris’s most striking landmarks, La Grande Arche, was added to the complex – an enormous hollow cube large enough to contain Notre­Dame cath­ edral. This was designed by Danish architect Johan Otto von Spreckelsen as part of major construction works, Shiny modern office blocks at La Défense business district

or Grands Travaux, which were initiated by (and are now a memorial to) the late President François Mitterrand. You can take a lift to the top of the arch for some great views. There’s also a restaurant and an exhibi­ tion space for photojournalism.

6"= Musée Marmottan Monet ⌂ 2 Rue Louis-Boilly 75016 q Muette # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ marmottan.fr

In 1932, art historian Paul Marmottan bequeathed his 19th­century mansion and his Renaissance, Consular and First Empire collections of paintings and furniture to the Institut de France, and a museum was established. The focus of the museum changed in 1934 after the bequest by

Claude Monet’s glasses, Musée Marmottan Monet

Michel Monet of 65 paintings by his father, Claude Monet. Some of Monet’s most famous paintings are here, among them Impression, Sunrise, a beautiful canvas from the Rouen Cathedral series, and several Water Lilies. In addition, part of Monet’s personal art collec­ tion passed to the museum, including paintings by Camille Pissarro and works by the Impressionists Pierre Auguste Renoir and Alfred Sisley. The museum also displays some exquisite medieval illuminated manuscripts.

Tombs within the BasiliqueCathédrale de St-Denis

7"'= Basilique-Cathédrale de St-Denis ⌂ 1 Rue de la Légion a’Honneur, 93200 St-Denis q Basilique de St-Denis W St-Denis # Apr–Sep: 10am–6:15pm Mon–Sat, noon–6:15pm Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–5:15pm Mon–Sat, noon–5:15pm Sun, advance booking required ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ saintdenis-basilique.fr

Constructed between 1137 and 1281, the cathedral is on the site of the tomb of St Denis, the first bishop of Paris, who was beheaded in 250. The building was the original influence for Gothic art. From Merovingian times, it was a burial place for rulers of France. During the Revolution, many tombs were desecrated and scattered, but the best were stored, and now represent a collection of funer­ ary art. Memorials include those of Dagobert, Henri II and Catherine de Medici, and Louis XVI and Marie­Antoinette.

8"'= Potager du Roi ⌂ 10 Rue du MaréchalJoffre, 78000 Versailles # 10am–6pm Tue–Fri (Apr– Oct: also Sat & Sun; Nov & Dec: also 10am–1pm Sat) W  Versailles–Château–Rive Gauche ∑ potager-du-roi.fr

When Louis XIV built Versailles, he decided that it would be prudent for a king to have his own vege­ table garden (poisoning was a constant threat in the château). Jean­Baptiste de La Quintinie developed the potager – vegetable patch – for Louis in 1678. At first, the

swampy ground proved difficult to master, but eventually La Quintinie was producing all sorts of fruits and vegetables for the king, including summer produce in the winter. The garden continued to function in several capacities after the Revolution, becoming a centre for education and horticul­ tural schools. In 1991, the Potager du Roi opened up to the public for visits. There is a shop selling seasonal produce pulled from the garden.

9= Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen ⌂ Rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen q Porte de Clignancourt, Garibaldi # 10am–6pm Sat–Sun, 11am–5pm Mon; reduced hours in mid-Aug ∑ marche auxpuces-saintouen.com

This is the oldest, most expensive and largest of the Paris flea markets, covering 6 ha (15 acres). In the 19th century, rag merchants and tramps would gather outside the city limits and offer their

Did You Know? Less than a quarter of Paris’s 10.5 million inhabitants live within the 20 arrondissements.

wares for sale. By the 1920s, there was a proper market here, where masterpieces could sometimes be pur­ chased cheaply from the often uninformed sellers. Today, it is divided into specialist markets, and is known especially for its profusion of furniture and ornaments from the Second Empire (1852–70). Few bargains are to be found these days, yet some 150,000 people still flock here to browse among more than 2,000 stalls.

0 Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves ⌂ Ave Georges Lafenestre & Ave Marc Sangnier 75014 q Porte de Vanves # 7am– 2pm Sat & Sun ∑ pucesde vanves.fr

Every Saturday and Sunday, bargain­hunters descend on this lively outdoor flea market. Visitors can pick through a wide selection of glassware, furniture and artworks, and a seemingly endless variety of odds and ends. There are always surprises. In 1989, the very first portrait ever taken by Louis Daguerre sold here at this market for the equivalent of €500, a modest sum for such a monumental piece of photographic history. There are real finds to be had if you look hard enough – go early to beat the crowds and prepare to spend a few hours browsing. 305

The Metro whizzing across the Pont de Bir Hakeim

NEED TO KNOW

Before You Go ............................................ 308 Getting Around ............................................310 Practical Information ................................ 314

NEED TO KNOW Before You Go

BEFORE

YOU GO

Things change, so plan ahead to make the most of your trip. Be prepared for all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel. AT A GLANCE

Passports and Visas

CURRENCY

For entry requirements, including visas, consult your nearest French embassy or check the France-Visas website. EU nationals do not need a visa for a stay of up to three months. France-Visas ∑ france-visas.gouv.fr

AVERAGE DAILY SPEND

Government Advice

Euro (EUR)

SAVE

SPEND

€60

BOTTLED WATER

€1

SPLURGE

€165

€300+

COFFEE

BEER

€2.50

€5

DINNER FOR TWO

€60

ESSENTIAL PHRASES Hello

Bonjour

Goodbye

Au revoir

Please

S’il vous plaît

Thank you

Merci

Do you speak English

Parlez-vous anglais?

I don’t understand...

Je ne comprends pas

ELECTRICITY SUPPLY

Power sockets are type C and E, fitting two-pronged plugs. Standard voltage is 230 volts.

308

Now more than ever, it is important to consult both your and the French government’s advice before travelling. The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office, the US State Department, the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade and Gouvernement France offer the latest information on security, health and local regulations. Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade ∑ smartraveller.gov.au Gouvernement France ∑ gouvernement.fr UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice US State Department ∑ travel.state.gov

Customs Information You can find information on the laws relating to goods and currency taken in or out of France on the official France Tourism website. France Tourism ∑ ee.france.fr

Insurance We recommend that you take out a comprehensive insurance policy covering theft, loss of belongings, medical care, cancellations and delays, and read the small print carefully. EU citizens are eligible for free emergency medical care in France, provided they have a valid EHIC (European Health Insurance Card). EHIC ∑ ec.europa.eu

Vaccinations No inoculations are needed for France.

Booking Accommodation Paris offers a huge variety of accommodation, including luxury five-star hotels, family-run B&Bs, budget hostels and private apartments. Tourists pour in from May to September, but Parisians pour out en masse in August.

Money Most establishments accept major credit, debit and prepaid currency cards, but it’s always a good idea to carry some cash too. Contactless payments are widely accepted in Paris. Tipping waiters in restaurants is considered polite. If you are pleased with the service a tip of 5–10% of the total bill is appreciated. Hotel porters and housekeeping generally expect a tip of €1 to €2 per bag or day. It is sufficent to tip taxi drivers €1 to €2.

Travellers with Specific Requirements Paris’s historic buildings and cobbled streets can make the city tricky to navigate. However, there are a number of organizations working to improve accessibility in France’s capital. The Office du Tourisme et des Congrès lists easily accessible sights and routes for visitors with mobility, visual or hearing impairment, while Jaccede has details of accessible museums, hotels, bars, restaurants and cinemas. The Vianavigo website provides detailed information on accessible public transport, including a route planner that can be tailored to your specific needs, and SNCF’s Accès Plus website is a useful source of information regarding accessible train travel. Les Compagnons du Voyage will provide an escort for persons with limited mobility or visual impairment on public transport, for a small fee. Accès Plus ∑ accessibilite.sncf.com Jaccede ∑ jaccede.com Les Compagnons du Voyage ∑ compagnons.com

Office du Tourisme et des Congrès ∑ parisinfo.com Vianavigo ∑ vianavigo.com

Language French is the official language spoken in Paris. The French are fiercely proud of their language, but don’t let this put you off. Mastering a few niceties goes a long way though you can get by without knowing the language at all.

Opening Hours

COVID-19 The pandemic continues to affect Paris. Some museums, tourist attractions and hospitality venues are operating on reduced or temporary opening hours, and require visitors to make advance bookings for a specific date and time. Always check ahead before visiting.

Lunchtime Some shops and businesses close for an hour or two around noon. Mondays Some museums, small shops, restaurants and bars are closed for the day. Tuesdays National museums are closed for the day, except Versailles and the Musée d’Orsay, which are closed on Mondays. Sundays Most shops are closed. Public holidays Shops, museums and many attractions are usually closed.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 1 Jan

New Year’s Day

Mar/Apr

Easter Monday

1 May

Labour Day

8 May

Victory 1945

14 Jul

Bastille Day

15 Aug

Assumption Day

1 Nov

All Saints’ Day

11 Nov

Armistice 1918

25 Dec

Christmas Day

309

NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

GETTING

AROUND Paris has an efficient public transport system that will allow you to navigate the city's many sights with ease.

Arriving by Air

AT A GLANCE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS

Tickets are valid on all forms of public transport.

SINGLE

€1.90 (zones 1–3)

DAY TICKET

€12 (zones 1–3)

3-DAY TICKET

€26.65 (zones 1–3)

SPEED LIMIT MOTORWAY

MAJOR ROADS

130

80

(80 mph)

(49 mph)

km/h

km/h

Paris has two major airports, Charles de Gaulle (also known as Roissy) and Orly, and one secondary airport, Beauvais, which serves mainly budget airlines. All three are well connected to the city centre by train, bus and taxi. Car rental facilities are also available, although driving in Paris is not recommended. For information on journey times and ticket prices between Paris’s airports and the city centre, see the table opposite. Airport Shuttles is a site that searches the best offers for services, including shared rides and private drivers, between the airports and your destination. It provides up-to-date prices for buses, taxis and all other options, allowing travellers to find what fits their budget. The RATP Roissybus operates regular services from Charles de Gaulle, and RER trains (Line B) leave regularly every 5–15 minutes, calling at Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les-Halles and several other major stations. Le Bus Direct runs a reliable service from both Charles de Gaulle and Orly. The most direct way into Paris from Beauvais is by shuttle bus to Porte-Maillot. It is wise to book the 90-minute journey in advance online. Airport Shuttles ∑ airportshuttles.com Le Bus Direct ∑ lebusdirect.com RATP Roissybus ∑ ratp.fr/en/titres-et-tarifs/airport-tickets

Train Travel International Train Travel

RING ROADS

URBAN AREAS

70

50

(43 mph)

(30 mph)

km/h

310

km/h

Regular high-speed trains connect Paris’s six international railway stations to numerous major cities across Europe. Reservations for these services are essential, as seats get booked up quickly, particularly during peak times. You can buy tickets and passes for multiple international journeys from Eurail or Interrail; however, you may need to pay an additional reservation fee. Always check carefully before boarding that your pass is valid on the service you wish to use.

GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT Airport Charles de Gaulle

Orly

Beauvais

Transport

Journey Time

Le Bus Direct Line 2

45–70 mins

Price €18

Le Bus Direct Line 4

1 hr 20 mins

€18

RATP Roissybus

1 hr 10 mins

€13.70

RER

25–30 mins

€11.40 €53–58

Taxi

25–45 mins

Le Bus Direct

20–60 mins

€12

GO C

30 mins

€6.35

RATP Orlybus

25–30 mins

€8.30

Orlyval/RER

30–40 mins

€12.10

Tram Line T7

30 mins

€1.90

Taxi

25–45 mins

€32–37

Shuttle bus

1 hr 15 mins

€15.90

Taxi

1 hr – 1 hr 30 mins

from €170

Eurostar runs a fast, regular service from London to central Paris via the Channel Tunnel. Students and those under 26 can benefit from discounted rail travel both to and within France. For more information on discounted travel, visit the Eurail or Interrail website. Thalys runs a high-speed service between Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam ten times a day, with a variety of special offers, package deals and half-price last-minute offers. Eurail ∑ eurail.com Eurostar ∑ eurostar.com Interrail ∑ interrail.eu Thalys ∑ thalys.com

Domestic Train Travel Paris has six main train stations, located across the city, all of which serve different regions. The French state railway, OUI SNCF, has two services in Paris: the Banlieue suburban service and the Grandes Lignes, or long-distance service. Banlieue services operate within the five-zone network. Grandes Lignes operate throughout France. The TGV offers reliable high-speed routes which should be booked in advance. There are also a number of budget high-speed trains, such as Ouigo.

Before boarding a train, remember to timepunch (composter) tickets at the entrance to the train platform to validate your journey; this does not apply for e-tickets. Tickets for city transport cannot be used on Banlieue trains, with the exception of some RER tickets to stations with both SNCF and RER lines. OUI SNCF ∑ oui.sncf.com Ouigo ∑ ouigo.com

PARIS’S MAIN STATIONS Station

Destinations Served

Gare de Lyon

Southern France, the Alps, Italy and Switzerland

Gare de l’Est

Eastern France, Austria, Switzerland and Germany.

Gare du Nord

Northeast France, Britain and Northern Europe

Gare St-Lazare

Channel ports and Normandy

Gare d’Austerlitz

Southwest France, Brittany ports and Spain

Gare Montparnasse

Brittany ports and Spain

311

NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

Public Transport The Metro, RER, buses and trams are all run by RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens). Safety and hygiene measures, timetables, ticket information, transport maps and more can be found on their website. RATP ∑ ratp.fr

Tickets The Paris metropolitan area is divided into five ticket zones. Central Paris is zone 1, Orly airport and Versailles are in zone 4 and Charles de Gaulle airport is in zone 5. The Metro serves zones 1–3. To avoid buying paper tickets you can get a Navigo pass, a rechargeable smart card that can be used on the Metro, RER and buses. The Navigo Easy costs €2 for the pass and can be topped up with credit and with as many standard fares as you like. The Passe Navigo Découverte costs €5 for the pass and can then be loaded with a week’s unlimited travel in zones 1–5. You will need a passport-sized photo and to add your signature to the pass. Visitors can also enjoy unlimited travel on the Metro, RER and Paris buses with a Paris Visite pass, valid for 1, 3 or 5 consecutive days in zones 1–3, or a Mobilis card, valid in the zones of your choice for one day. Both of these are available from the RATP. Children aged 11 and under travel free. Bus-only tickets can be purchased on board from the driver. All bus tickets must be validated using the machine on the bus. Anyone travelling without a valid ticket may be fined. Navigo ∑ navigo.fr

Metro and RER The Paris Metro has 14 main lines and two minor lines. The RER is a system of five lines of commuter trains that travel underground in central Paris and above ground in outlying areas. The two systems overlap in the city centre. RER trips outside the centre require special tickets; fares to suburbs and nearby towns vary.

Buses and Trams Most buses must be flagged down at designated stops. Your ticket may be used for transfers to other bus and tramway lines for 90 minutes (between the first and last validation). Each time you change buses or trams, you must validate your ticket again. Exceptions to this rule are the Balabus, Noctambus, Orlybus and Roissybus services, and lines 221, 297, 299, 350 and 351. There are 48 night bus lines, called Noctilien, serving Paris and its suburbs. The terminus for most lines is Châtelet. 312

Eight tram lines, T1 to T8, operate in Paris, mainly servicing the outskirts of the city. You can travel on the trams using regular Metro tickets and passes. They don’t run past the most major tourist attractions but can be a pleasant way to see the outer reaches of Paris.

Long-Distance Bus Travel

Two major coach operators, FlixBus and BlaBlaBus, link Paris to other towns in France and destinations throughout Europe. Between the two companies – low-cost alternatives to planes and trains – travellers from Paris may reach London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Milan and Barcelona, as well as Warsaw, Zagreb and Bucharest, among other cities. BlaBlaBus ∑ blablacar.fr/bus FlixBus ∑ global.flixbus.com

Taxis Taxis can be hailed in the street or from one of the 500 or so taxi ranks dotted around the city. The meter will show an initial starting charge (around €2.60). There is usually an additional charge for more than three passengers. Vélo taxis are motorized tricycle rickshaws that offer a green alternative to traditional taxis. G7 Taxis has a large fleet of electric and hybrid cars. If you’re after a motorcycle taxi, book with CityBird. Taxi apps such as Uber, Free Now and Bolt also operate in Paris. Citybird ∑ city-bird.com G7 Taxis ∑ taxisg7.com

Driving Driving in Paris is not recommended. Traffic is often heavy, there are many one-way streets and parking is notoriously difficult and expensive.

Driving to Paris Autoroutes (motorways) converge on Paris from all directions. For those travelling from Britain to Paris by road, the simplest way is to use the Eurotunnel trains that run between the terminals at Folkestone and Calais, which both have direct motorway access. Paris is surrounded by an outer ring road, the Boulevard Périphérique. All motorways leading to the capital link in to the Périphérique, which separates the city from the suburbs. Each former city gate (porte) corresponds to an exit onto or from the Périphérique. Arriving motorists should take time to check their destination address and consult a map of central Paris to find the closest corresponding porte.

Car Rental To rent a car in France you must be 21 or over and have held a valid driver’s licence for at least a year. You will also need to present a credit card to secure the rental deposit. Check the regulations regarding the type of driving licence you need to drive in France with your local automobile association before you travel. Ada.Paris is a self-service car rental service that operates throughout Paris and the Paris region. You can pick up a car from one parking station, make your journey and park at any other station in the region. Ada.Paris ∑ ada.fr

Driving in Paris Paris is a limited traffic zone and it is compulsory for all vehicles to display a Crit’Air sticker with a number ranging from 1 to 5, which denotes the level of pollution in ascending order. In the event of high pollution levels, vehicles with certain stickers may be banned from the road. The stickers can be purchased from the Air Quality Certificate Service. Park in areas with a large “P” or payant sign on the pavement or road, and pay at the parking meter with La Paris Carte (available from any kiosk), a credit or debit card, or by using the PaybyPhone app (p314). Paris has numerous underground car parks, signposted by a white “P” on a blue background. Air Quality Certificate Service ∑ certificat-air.gouv.fr

Rules of the Road

Always drive on the right. Unless otherwise signposted, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. Cars on a roundabout usually have right of way, although the Arc de Triomphe is a hair-raising exception as cars give way to traffic on the right. At all times, drivers must carry a valid driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents. The wearing of seat belts is compulsory, and it is prohibited to sound your horn in the city. For motorbikes and scooters, the wearing of helmets and protective gloves is compulsory. In the city centre, it is against the law to use the bus lanes at any time of day. France strictly enforces its drink-drive limit (p315).

to Dunkirk. Brittany Ferries makes crossings from Plymouth to Roscoff, from Poole and Portsmouth to Cherbourg, and from Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen. They also run an overnight service from Portsmouth to St-Malo. Driving to Paris from Cherbourg takes about four hours; from Dieppe or Le Havre, about two and a half hours; and from Calais, two hours. Brittany Ferries ∑ brittany-ferries.co.uk Condor Ferries ∑ condorferries.co.uk DFDS Seaways ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk P&O Ferries ∑ poferries.com

Paris by Boat

Paris’s river-boat shuttle, the Batobus, runs every 20 to 45 minutes, with more frequent services in spring and summer. Tickets can be bought at Batobus stops and at RATP and tourist offices. Batobus ∑ batobus.com

Cycling Paris is reasonably flat, manageably small and has many backstreets where traffic is restricted. For details of the city’s cycle lanes, download the free Paris à Vélo map. Paris à Vélo ∑ paris.fr/velo

Bicycle Hire

The Vélib’ shared bicycle scheme is available 24 hours a day. There are some 1,400 Vélib’ docking terminals dotted throughout the city; payment is made via the smartphone app or by credit card at the terminals. For regular bikes, the first half-hour is free, increasing by €1 for every additional half-hour; for electric bikes the first half-hour is €1, increasing by €2 for every additional half-hour. Vélib’ ∑ velib-metropole.fr

Bicycle Tours

Boats and Ferries

Fat Tire Tours offer trips to Paris’s most famous landmarks, while Paris à Vélo runs multilingual tours to more offbeat locations. Fat Tire Tours ∑ fattiretours.com

Arriving by Sea

Walking

A number of companies run passenger and vehicle ferry services from the UK. P&O Ferries runs services from Dover to Calais, Condor Ferries operates between Poole and St-Malo and DFDS Seaways runs routes from Newhaven to Dieppe and from Dover

Walking is by far the most agreeable way to explore central Paris. Most sights are only a short distance apart. The Office du Tourisme et des Congrès has a number of walking itineraries on their website (p309). 313

NEED TO KNOW Practical Information

PRACTICAL

INFORMATION A little local know-how goes a long way in Paris. Here you will find all the essential advice and information you will need during your stay.

Personal Security

AT A GLANCE EMERGENCY NUMBERS GENERAL EMERGENCY

FIRE SERVICE

112

18

POLICE

MEDICAL EMERGENCY

17

15

TIME ZONE

CET/CEST Central European Summer Time (CEST) runs from end Mar to end Oct.

TAP WATER

Unless stated otherwise, tap water in France is safe to drink.

WEBSITES AND APPS en.parisinfo.com The official Paris tourist board website. Le Fooding No matter where you are in the city, find the nearest recommended restaurant in an instant. PaybyPhone Pay for on-street parking quickly and easily with this app. RATP The official app from RATP, the city’s public transport operator.

314

Paris is generally a safe city to visit. Petty theft is as common here as in most major cities. Pick­ pockets often frequent tourist spots and wander the Metro system and RER so guard your belongings at all times. To report a theft, go to the nearest police station (commissariat de police) within 24 hours, and bring ID with you. A list of police stations can be found on the Office du Tourisme et des Congrès website (p309). Get a copy of the crime report in order to make an insurance claim. If you have your passport stolen, or in the event of a serious crime or accident, contact your embassy. When travelling late at night, avoid long transfers in Metro stations such as Châtelet­Les­ Halles and Montparnasse. The last RER trains to and from outlying areas should also be avoided. Paris is a diverse, mulitculutral city. As a rule, Parisians are accepting of all people, regardless of their race, gender or sexuality. Same­sex marriage was legalized in 2013 and France recognized the right to legally change your gender in 2016. Paris has a thriving LGBT+ scene, centred in the Marais district. The Centre LGBT Paris Ile-de-France offers advice and hosts regular events. It also has a library and bar. Events in recent years have led to an increased army and police presence in Paris, which should be regarded as normal. Expect bag checks at most major attractions. Small groups of armed guards patrolling are common. Centre LGBT Paris Ile-de-France ∑ centrelgbtparis.org

Health France has a world­class healthcare system. Emergency healthcare is free for all EU nationals with an EHIC card (p308). You may have to pay for treatment and reclaim the money later. For visitors from outside the EU, payment of medical expenses is the patient’s responsibility. It is therefore important to arrange comprehen­ sive medical insurance before travelling. Paris hosptitals are listed on the Assistance Publique website. The most centrally located

hostpital is the Hôtel Dieu (Pl du Parvis Notre Dame). In the case of a dental emergency, SOS Dentaire will provide a prompt house call, but be prepared to pay a substantial fee. The Centre Médical Europe has a dental practice. A green cross indicates a pharmacy. As well as selling medicines, pharmacies will advise on minor health problems and can give details of the nearest doctor. You can usually find details of the nearest 24-hour service on all pharmacy doors. Assistance Publique ∑ apap.fr Centre Médical Europe ∑ centre-medical-europe.fr SOS Dentaire ∑ sosdentaire.com

Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs Smoking is prohibited in all public places, but is allowed on restaurant, café and pub terraces, as long as they are not enclosed. The possession of narcotics is prohibited and could result in a prison sentence. Unless stated otherwise, alcohol consumption on the streets is permitted. France has a strict limit of 0.05 per cent BAC (blood alcohol content) for drivers.

ID There is no requirement for visitors to carry ID, but in the event of a routine check you may be asked to show your passport. If you don’t have it with you, the police may escort you to wherever your passport is being kept.

Local Customs Etiquette (la politesse) is important to Parisians. On entering a store or café, you are expected to say “bonjour” to staff, and when leaving to say “au revoir”. Be sure to add “s’il vous plaît” (please) when ordering something and “pardon” if you accidentally bump into someone. The French usually shake hands on meeting someone for the first time. Friends and colleagues who know each other well greet each other with a kiss on each cheek. If you are unsure what's expected, wait to see if they proffer a hand or a cheek.

Visiting Churches and Cathedrals Dress respectfully. Cover your torso and upper arms; ensure shorts and skirts cover your knees.

Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi Free Wi-Fi hotspots provide fast internet access in more than 260 public places in Paris, including museums, parks and libraries. These are clearly signposted with the Paris Wi-Fi logo. Cafés and restaurants usually permit the use of their Wi-Fi on the condition that you make a purchase. Visitors travelling to Paris with EU tariffs will be able to use their devices without being affected by data roaming charges. Users will be charged the same rates for data, SMS and voice calls as they would pay at home.

Post Stamps (timbres) can be bought at post offices and tabacs. Most post offices have self-service machines to weigh and frank your mail.

Taxes and Refunds VAT is around 20% in France. Non-EU residents can claim back tax on certain goods. Look out for the Global Refund Tax-Free sign, where the retailer will supply a form and issue a détaxe receipt. Present the goods receipt, détaxe receipt and passport at customs when you depart to receive your refund.

Discount Cards Entry to some national and municipal museums is free on the first Sunday of each month. Visitors under 18 years of age and EU passport holders aged 18–26 years are usually admitted free of charge to national museums, and there are sometimes discounts for students and over60s who have ID showing their date of birth. The Paris Pass offers access to over 60 attractions for 2, 3, 4 or 6 consecutive days. It also includes unlimited travel on the Metro, buses and RER within central Paris, and a ticket for a hop-on hop-off bus tour. Paris Pass ∑ parispass.com 315

INDEX

Index

Page numbers in bold type refer to main entries

A Abélard, Pierre 73 Académie Française 240–41 Air travel 310 Alphand, Adolphe 146, 227 Aquarium de Paris 37, 221 Arc de Triomphe 50, 216–17 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 50, 192 Archaeology Crypte Archéologique 77, 80 Enceinte de Philippe Auguste 96 Architecture 54–5 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimonie 220 La Défense 304 Olympiades 274 Arènes de Lutèce 50, 268, 277 Assemblé Nationale PalaisBourbon 210 Au Lapin Agile 161, 166 Avenue des Champs-Élysées 222, 231 Avenue Montaigne 226, 230 Average daily spend 308 A Year in Paris 58–9

B Balzac, Honoré de 130, 289 Basilique-Cathédrale de St-Denis 305 Bassin de l’Arsenal 108 Bastille and Oberkampf 101–13 getting to know 17 Batignolles 164 Baudelaire, Charles 283 Beach, Sylvia 258–9 Beauvoir, Simone de 245, 246, 283 Beckett, Samuel 283 Beer 52 Before you Go 308–9 Belleville and Ménilmontant 33, 56, 127–37 getting to know 18 Bercy 111 Berges de Seine 210 Bernhardt, Sarah 131 Beyond the Centre 291–305 getting to know 25

316

Bibliothèque Nationale de France 274 Bibliothèque SteGeneviève 258 Bicycling 313 Boat travel 313 Bois de Boulogne 43, 292–3 Bois de Vincennes see Château et Bois de Vincennes Booking accommodation 309 Bourdelle, Antoine 286 Brancusi, Constantin 91 Bridges Pont Alexandre III 226, 231 Pont des Arts 245 Pont Neuf 78 Budé, Guillaume 254 Burial sites see Cemeteries and burial sites Bus travel 312 Butte-aux-Cailles 274–5

C Cabaret Sauvage 150 Café de Flore 243, 246 Canals see Rivers and canals Canal St-Martin 56, 118–19 Car rental 313 Cartier-Bresson, Henri 34 Catacombes de Paris 55, 285 Cathedrals Basilique-Cathédrale de St-Denis 305 Notre-Dame 11, 35, 70–73, 81 visiting 315 see also Churches Cemeteries and burial sites Catacombes de Paris 55, 285 Cimetière de Montmartre 159 Cimetière de Passy 228 Cimetière du Montparnasse 282–3, 288 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 44, 130–31 Cimetière St-Vincent 159 Panthéon 252–3 Champ-de-Mars 211 Champs-Élysées and Chaillot 213–33 getting to know 22 short walk 230–31 Chanel, Coco 45, 49 Chapelle Expiatoire 176 Charlemagne, Holy Roman Emperor 81

Château et Bois de Vincennes 36, 57, 294–5 Children’s activities Disneyland® Paris 300–303 Paris for Families 36–7 Chinatown 274 Chirac, Jacques 202 Churches 46 Chapelle Expiatoire 176 Dôme des Invalides 206–7, 213 Église St-Augustin 176 Église St-JeanBaptiste 136 Église de la Ste-Trinité 175 La Madeleine 174, 178 Notre-Dame-de-laCroix 134–5 Notre-Dame-du-Travail 284 Sacré-Coeur 156–7, 167 Sainte-Chapelle 74–5, 80 St-Étienne-du-Mont 257 St-Eustache 190 St-Germain-des-Prés 241, 246 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 192–3 St-Jean l’Évangéliste de Montmartre 158 St-Julien-le-Pauvre 256–7, 261 St-Louis-des-Invalides 205, 212 St-Louis-en-Île 79 St-Médard 271, 276 St-Merry 190 St-Paul-St-Louis 94 St-Pierre de Montmartre 158, 167 St-Roch 194 St-Séverin 255, 261 St-Sulpice 243 visiting 315 Ste-Clotilde 210–11 Cimetière de Montmartre 159 Cimetière de Passy 228 Cimetière du Montparnasse 282–3, 288 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 44, 130–31 Cinéma Quai de la Loire and Quai de Seine 146–7 Cinemas Cinéma Quai de la Loire and Quai de Seine 146–7 Fondation Jérôme SeydouxPathé 274

Cinemas (cont.) Forum des Images 190 Grand Action Cinéma 258 Le Grand Rex 177 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimonie 220 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie 37, 144–5 Citroën, André 283 Closures 309 Collège de France 254 Conciergerie 76–7, 80 Corday, Charlotte 76, 176 Coronation of Napoleon, The (David) 185 Coulée Verte René-Dumont 43, 106 Cour Damoye and Passage du Cheval Blanc 110 Cour du Commerce St-André 242 COVID-19 309 Crypte Archéologique 77, 80 Currency 308 Customs information 308

D Daguerre, Louis 34 Dalí, Salvador 160, 166 Dalí Paris 160, 166 De Gaulle, Charles 204–5, 222 Delacroix, Eugène 241 Deyrolle 245 Diana, Princess of Wales 51 Discount tickets 47, 315 Disneyland® Paris 300–303 Doisneau, Robert 34 Dôme des Invalides 206–7, 213 Driving 312

E École Militaire 208 École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts 241 Edith Piaf Museum 108 Église St-Augustin 176 Église St-Jean-Baptiste 136 Église de la Ste-Trinité 175 Eiffel Tower 10, 35, 54, 200–201, 219, 221 Eiffel Tower and Invalides 197–213 getting to know 21 short walk 212–13

Electricity 308 Emergencies 314 Enceinte de Philippe Auguste 96 Entertainment venues Au Lapin Agile 161, 166 Cabaret Sauvage 150 Comédie-Française 195 La Bellevilloise 135 La Géode 145 La Grande Halle de la Villette 150–51 La Maroquinerie 41, 134 Moulin Rouge 164 Opéra National de Paris Bastille 13, 40, 106 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 13, 40, 172–3, 179 Philharmonie de Paris 40, 54, 147 Théâtre du Rond-Point 230 Théâtre Mogador 41, 175 Théâtre Montparnasse 288 Théâtre National de Chaillot 219 see also Cinemas Essential phrases 308 Explore Paris 14–15

F Festivals 58–9 Fitzgerald, F Scott 45 Fondation Cartier 285 Fondation Jérôme SeydouxPathé 274 Fontaine des Innocents 191 Food and drink 10, 11, 12, 38–9, 52–3 Bastille and Oberkampf 107, 108, 109 Belleville and Ménilmontant 133, 135 Bois de Boulogne 293 Brasserie Lipp 246 Café de Flore 243, 246 Café de la Paix 179 cafés 10, 245 Champs-Élysées and Chaillot 223, 229 Château et Bois de Vincennes 294 children 37 Eiffel Tower and Invalides 208

Food and drink (cont.) Harry’s Bar 179 Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis 77 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie 275 La Coupole 289 La Cuisine Paris 37, 96 La Mère Catherine 167 Lasserre 230 Latin Quarter 255, 259 La Villette 147, 151 Le Grand Véfour 195 Le Procope 242 Les Deux Magots 244, 246 Louvre and Les Halles 189 Marais, The 92 Montmartre and Pigalle 159, 161 Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg 285 Ô Château 193 Opéra and Grands Boulevards 175 République and Canal St-Martin 118, 125 Rosa Bonheur 146 St-Germain-des-Prés 240, 243 Versailles 299 Forum des Images 190 Fountains Cuvier 277 Fontaine des Innocents 191 Fontaine Médicis 287 Fontaine Molière 195 Pot-de-Fer 276 French Revolution 76, 104, 176, 222

G Gainsbourg, Serge 283 Galerie Colbert 189 Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume 192 Galeries Lafayette 175 Galerie Vivienne 188–9 Galleries see Museums and galleries Gardens see Parks and gardens Gare de l’Est 124 Gare de Lyon 34, 108–9 Gare du Nord 125 Gare Saint-Lazare 176 Getting Around 310–13 arriving by air 310 arriving by sea 313

317

Index

Getting Around (cont.) bicycle 313 buses and trams 312 driving 312 public transport 311, 312 taxis 312 train travel 310 Getting to Know Paris 16–25 Gibert Jeune Bookshops 256 Government advice 308 Grand Action Cinéma 258 Grande Mosquée de Paris 268–9, 277 Grand Palais 223, 230

H Halle St-Pierre 161, 167 Haussmann, Baron EugeneGeorges 54, 55, 146, 175 Head of a Woman (Picasso) 89 Health 308, 314 Hemingway, Ernest 45, 269, 270 Henri IV, King 78 Henry V of England, King 294 Historic buildings Académie Française 240–41 Assemblé Nationale Palais-Bourbon 210 Château de Vincennes 36, 57, 294–5 Collège de France 254 Conciergerie 76–7, 80 École Militaire 208 Galerie Colbert 189 Grand Palais 223, 230 Hôpital St-Louis 121 Hôtel de Bethune-Sully 99 Hôtel de Guénégaud 37, 96–7 Hôtel de Lamoignon 98 Hôtel des Invalides 20, 204, 213 Hôtel de Ville 95 Hôtel Dieu 77, 81 La Sorbonne 255 Le Palais Abbatial 247 Maison de Victor Hugo 93, 99 Monnaie de Paris 242 Moulin de la Galette 160–61 Palace and Gardens of Versailles 12, 43, 45, 296–9 Palais de Chaillot 218–19 Palais de Justice 78, 80

318

Historic buildings (cont.) Palais de l’Élysée 228 Palais du Luxembourg 286 Palais-Royal 188, 195 Panthéon 252–3 Petit Palais 223, 231 Préfecture de Police 80 Regard St-Martin 137 see also Architecture History 50–51, 60–63 Homage to Apollinaire (Picasso) 247 Hôpital St-Louis 121 Hôtel de Guénégaud 37, 96–7 Hôtel des Invalides 50, 204, 213 Hôtel de Ville 95 Hôtel Dieu 77, 81 Hotels Bastille and Oberkampf 111 Belleville and Ménilmontant 136 booking 309 Champs-Élysées and Chaillot 227 Eiffel Tower and Invalides 208 Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis 79 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie 271 Latin Quarter 257 Louvre and Les Halles 191 Marais, The 97 Montmartre and Pigalle 160 Normandy 194 Opéra and Grands Boulevards 177 St-Germain-des-Prés 244 Hugo, Victor 93, 99, 268

I ID 315 Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis 67–83 getting to know 16 short walk 80–81 Institut du Monde Arabe 270 Institut Pasteur 284–5 Insurance 308 Itineraries 26–31 3 days 31 5 hours 27 24 hours 29

J Jardin des Plantes 36, 268 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie 263–77 getting to know 24 short walk 276–7 Jardin des Tuileries 42, 191, 194 Jardin du Luxembourg 42, 286–7 Jardin du Palais-Royal 42, 188, 195 Jardins du Trocadéro 220–1 Jeu de Paume 192 Jewish sites Mémorial de la Shoah 95 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme 97 Rue des Rosiers 93, 98 Joyce, James 45, 270

K Kardec, Allan 131 Kiss, The (Brancusi) 282 Kiss, The (Picasso) 89

L La Bellevilloise 135 La Campagne à Paris 137 La Cuisine Paris 37, 96 La Défense 304 La Grande Halle de la Villette 150–51 La Madeleine 174, 178 La Maroquinerie 41, 134 Language 309 La Sorbonne 255 Lassus, Jean-Baptiste Antoine 136 Latin Quarter 249–61 getting to know 23 short walk 260–61 La Villette 56, 139–51 getting to know 19 Le 104 151 Le Bon Marché 243 Le Brun, Charles 72, 273, 296 Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Manet) 239 Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Monet) 239 Le Grand Rex 177 Le Nôtre, André 191, 222, 298

Le Procope 242 Le Rhinocéros (Veihan) 91 Les Deux Magots 244, 246 Le Vau, Louis 79 LGBT+ venues Rosa Bonheur 146 Libraries Bibliothèque-Musée de l’Opéra 179 Bibliothèque Nationale de France 274 Bibliothèque SteGeneviève 258 Local customs 315 Louis-Philippe, King 188, 206 Louis, St 75, 79 Louis XIII, King 78, 92 Louis XIV, King 206, 296, 305 Louis XVI, King 104, 120, 176 Louvre and Les Halles 181–95 getting to know 20 short walk 194–5

M Maillol, Aristide 244–5 Maison de Victor Hugo 93, 99 Maison Européenne de la Photographie 94 Man Ray 283 Mansart, François 96, 97 Maps Bastille and Oberkampf 102–3 Belleville and Ménilmontant 128–9 Champs-Élysées and Chaillot 214–15 Eiffel Tower and Invalides 198–9 Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis 68–9 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie 264–5 Latin Quarter 250–51 La Villette 140–41 Louvre and Les Halles 182–3 Marais, The 86–7 Montmartre and Pigalle 154–5 Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg 282–3 Opéra and Grands Boulevards 170–71 République and Canal St-Martin 116–17

Maps (cont.) St-Germain-des-Prés 236–7 Marais, The 85–99 getting to know 17 short walk 98–9 Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II 43, 77, 80 Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves 305 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen 305 Marché d’Aligre 57, 106–7 Marché de Belleville 134 Marché Maubert 257 Marie-Antoinette, Queen 45, 76, 120, 176, 298 Markets see Shops and markets 13 Marmottan, Paul 304 Medici, Marie de 286, 287 Mémorial de la Shoah 95 Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation 76 Memorials and war memorials Mémorial de la Shoah 95 Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation 76 Ménagerie 270–71 Merci 110–11 Metro 312 Mobile phones and Wi-Fi 315 Mobilier National et La Manufacture des Gobelins 272–3 Molière 130, 160, 190, 195 Mona Lisa (da Vinci) 184, 186 Monet, Claude 32, 192, 239, 304 Money 309 Monnaie de Paris 242 Montmartre and Pigalle 34, 153–67 getting to know 19 short walk 166–7 Montparnasse and Jardin du Luxembourg 281–9 getting to know 24 short walk 288–9 Monuments see Statues and monuments Morrison, Jim 130, 131 Mosques Grande Mosquée de Paris 268–9, 277 Moulin de la Galette 160–61 Moulin Rouge 164

Musée Antoine Bourdelle 286 Musée Carnavalet 50, 94, 97, 99 Musée Cognacq-Jay 92, 94, 98 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme 97 Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris 228–9 Musée de Cluny 50, 254 Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature 37, 96–7 Musée de la Légion d’Honneur 240 Musée de la Préfecture de Police 254 Musée de l’Armée 204, 212 Musée de la Vie Romantique 164–5 Musée de l’Homme 220 Musée de l’Orangerie 192 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération 204–5, 212 Musée de Montmartre 160, 166 Musée des Arts et Métiers 120 Musée des Égouts 209 Musée des Moulages 120–21 Musée des Plan-Reliefs 205, 213 Musée d’Orsay 32, 37, 238–9 Musée du Louvre 11, 32, 33, 37, 184–7, 195 Musée du Luxembourg 286 Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac 202–3 Musée Eugène Delacroix 241, 247 Musée Grévin 177 Musée Jacquemart-André 227 Musée Libération Leclerc Moulin 285 Musée Maillol 244–5 Musée Marmottan Monet 32, 304 Musée National de la Marine 220 Musée Picasso Paris 32, 33, 88–9, 99 Musée Rodin 208–9, 213 Musée Zadkine 287 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle 37, 266–7 Museums and galleries 32, 47 Bibliothèque-Musée de l’Opéra 179 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimonie 220 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie 37, 142–3

319

Index 320

Museums and galleries (cont.) Dalí Paris 160, 166 Deyrolle 245 École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts 241 Edith Piaf Museum 108 Fondation Cartier 285 Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume 192 Halle St-Pierre 161, 167 Hôtel des Invalides 50 Institut du Monde Arabe 270 Institut Pasteur 45, 284–5 Le 104 151 Louvre des Antiquaires 195 Maison Européenne de la Photographie 94 Mobilier National et La Manufacture des Gobelins 272–3 Musée Antoine Bourdelle 286 Musée Carnavalet 50, 94, 97, 99 Musée Cognacq-Jay 92, 94, 98 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme 97 Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris 228–9 Musée de Cluny 50, 254 Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature 37, 96–7 Musée de la Légion d’Honneur 240 Musée de la Préfecture de Police 254 Musée de l’Armée 204, 212 Musée de la Vie Romantique 164–5 Musée de l’Homme 220 Musée de l’Orangerie 192 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération 204–5, 212 Musée de Montmartre 160, 166 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 194 Musée des Arts et Métiers 120 Musée des Égouts 209 Musée des Moulages 120–21 Musée des Plan-Reliefs 205, 213

Musée d’Orsay 32, 37, 238–9 Musée du Louvre 11, 32, 33, 37, 184–7, 195 Musée du Luxembourg 286 Musée du Quai BranlyJacques Chirac 202–3 Musée Eugène Delacroix 241, 247 Musée Grévin 177 Musée JacquemartAndré 227 Musée Libération Leclerc Moulin 285 Musée Maillol 244–5 Musée Marmottan Monet 32, 304 Musée National de la Marine 220 Musée National du Moyen Age 260 Musée Picasso Paris 32, 33, 88–9, 99 Musée Rodin 208–9, 213 Musée Zadkine 287 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle 37, 266–7 Palais de Chaillot 218–19 Palais de la Découverte 37, 226, 230 Palais de Tokyo 33, 229 Pavillon de l’Arsenal 50, 93 Pompidou Centre 32, 33, 90–91 Station F 273

N Napoleon I Bonaparte 50, 62, 70, 192, 217 and Dôme des Invalides 206, 213 Napoleon III, Emperor 50, 62, 146, 294 Need to Know 307–15 getting around 310–13 practical information 314–15 before you go 308–9 Nightlife 134 Notre Dame 11, 35, 70–73, 81 Notre-Dame-de-laCroix 134–5 Notre-Dame-du-Travail 284

O Ô Château 193 Olympiades 274

Opéra and Grands Boulevards 169–79 getting to know 20 short walk 178–9 Opéra National de Paris Bastille 13, 40, 106 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 13, 40, 172–3, 179 Opera see Entertainment venues Orwell, George 45, 270

P Palace and Gardens of Versailles 12, 43, 45, 296–9 Palais de Chaillot 218–19 Palais de Justice 78, 80 Palais de la Découverte 37, 226, 230 Palais de l’Élysée 228 Palais de Tokyo 33, 229 Palais du Luxembourg 286 Palais-Royal 188, 195 Panthéon 252–3 Parc de Belleville 132 Parc de la Villette 42, 142–3 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont 42, 146 Parc Monceau 42, 226–7 Paris Commune 131, 135 Paris for Architecture 54–5 Paris for Art Lovers 32–3 Paris for Families 36–7 Paris for Foodies 38–9 Paris for Green Spaces 42–3 Paris for History Buffs 50–51 Paris for Inspiration 44–5 Paris for Live Music 40–41 Paris for Photographers 34–5 Paris for Shoppers 48–9 Paris off the Beaten Track 56–7 Paris on a Shoestring 46–7 Paris Raise a Glass 52–3 Parks and gardens 42–3, 47 Bois de Boulogne 43, 292–3 Champ-de-Mars 211 Château et Bois de Vincennes 43, 57, 294–5 Coulée Verte René-Dumont 43, 106 Invalides 213 Jardin des Plantes 36, 268 Jardin des Tuileries 42, 191, 194

Parks and gardens (cont.) Jardin du Luxembourg 42, 286–7 Jardin du Palais-Royal 42, 188, 195 Jardins des ChampsÉlysées 231 Jardins du Trocadéro 220–1 Palace and Gardens of Versailles 12, 43, 296–9 Parc de Belleville 132 Parc de la Villette 42, 142–3 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont 42, 146 Parc Monceau 42, 226–7 Potager du Roi 305 Passports and visas 308 Pasteur, Louis 45, 284–5 Pavillon de l’Arsenal 50, 93 Personal security 314 Petit Palais 223, 231 Philharmonie de Paris 40, 54, 147 Piaf, Edith 108, 131, 132 Picasso, Pablo 89, 247 Place Charles de Gaulle (l’Étoile) 222 Place Dauphine 78 Place de la Bastille 104–5 Place de la Concorde 222 Place de la Contrescarpe 270, 276 Place de la Madeleine 174–5, 178 Place des Abbesses 158–9 Place des Vosges 92, 99 Place du Tertre 33, 158, 166 Place St-Michel 256, 260 Place Vendôme 50, 193 Pompidou Centre 32, 33, 90–91 Pont Alexandre III 226, 231 Pont des Arts 245 Pont Neuf 78 Portes St-Denis et St-Martin 125 Portrait of a Woman (Modigliani) 166 Post 315 Potager du Roi 305 Practical information 314–15 Printemps 35, 177

Proust, Marcel 131 Public holidays 309 Public transport 311, 312

Q Quai d’Austerlitz 272 Quai St-Bernard 272 Quartier Jourdain 136–7

R Ravy, Jean 70, 72 Reasons to Love Paris 10–13 Regard St-Martin 137 République and Canal St-Martin 115–25 getting to know 18 Restaurants see Food and drink Rivers and canals 36 Bassin de l’Arsenal 108 Bassin de la Villette 150 Canal St-Martin 56, 118–19 Parc Rives de Seine 96 Seine 12 travel 313 see also Bridges Rodenbach, George 131 Rodin, Auguste 208–9 Roman remains Arènes de Lutèce 50, 268, 277 Thermes de Cluny 254 Rue Cler 209 Rue de Belleville 132 Rue de la Roquette 107 Rue Dénoyez 133, 137 Rue des Martyrs 165 Rue des Rosiers 93, 98 Rue Mouffetard 269, 276 Rue Oberkampf 109 Rue St-André-des-Arts 242 Rue Ste-Marthe 124 Rules of the road 313

S Sacré-Coeur 156–7, 167 Sainte-Chapelle 74–5, 8 Saint Mary Magdalene (Erhart) 186 Sartre, Jean-Paul 245, 246, 283 Seberg, Jean 283 Seige of Paris 156

Shakespeare and Company 45, 255, 258–9, 261 Shops and markets 13, 39, 48–9 Bastille and Oberkampf 105, 109 Galeries Lafayette 175 Galerie Vivienne 188–9 Gibert Jeune Bookshops 256 Jardin des Plantes and Place d’Italie 273 Le Bon Marché 243 Marais, The 95 Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II 43, 77, 80 Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves 305 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen 305 Marché d’Aligre 57, 106–7 Marché de Belleville 134 Marché Maubert 257 Marché St-Germain 247 Merci 110–11 Montmartre and Pigalle 165 Place de la Madeleine 174–5 Printemps 35, 177 République and Canal St-Martin 121 Rue Cler 209 Shakespeare and Company 45, 255, 258–9, 261 St-Germain-des-Prés 241 Short Walks Champs-Élysées 230–31 Île de la Cité 80–81 Invalides 212–13 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 276–7 Latin Quarter 260–61 Marais, The 98–9 Montmartre 166–7 Montparnasse 288–9 Opéra 178–9 St-Germain-des-Prés 246–7 Tuileries Quarter 194–5 Smoking, alcohol and drugs 315 Square du Temple 120 Square du VertGalant 78 Square René Viviani 259 Squares Cour du Mal 80 Place Charles de Gaulle (l’Étoile) 222 Place Dauphine 78 Place de la Bastille 104–5

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Index 322

Squares (cont.) Place de la Concorde 222 Place de la Contrescarpe 270, 276 Place de la Madeleine 174–5, 178 Place des Abbesses 158–9 Place des Pyramides 194 Place des Vosges 92, 99 Place du Tertre 33, 158, 166 Place St-Michel 256, 260 Place Vendôme 50, 193 Square du Temple 120 Square du Vert-Galant 78 Square Jean XXIII 81 Square René Viviani 259 Square Louise-Michel 167 St Bonaventura’s Body Lying in State (Zurbarán) 186 Station F 273 Stations Gare de l’Est 124 Gare de Lyon 34, 108–9 Gare du Nord 125 Gare Saint-Lazare 176 Statues and monuments Arc de Triomphe 50, 216–17 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 50, 192 Balzac 289 Charlemagne 81 Danton 247 St-Étienne-du-Mont 257 St-Eustache 190 St-Germain-des-Près 235–47, 241, 246 getting to know 23 short walk 246–7 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 192–3 St-Jean l’Évangéliste de Montmartre 158 St-Julien-le-Pauvre 256–7, 261 St-Louis-des-Invalides 205, 212 St-Louis-en-Île 79 St-Médard 271, 276 St-Merry 190 St-Paul-St-Louis 94 St-Pierre de Montmartre 158, 167 Ste-Clotilde 210–11 Street art 33, 133 Streets Ancien Cloître Quartier 81 Avenue des Champs-Élysées 222, 231 Avenue Montaigne 226, 230 Berges de Seine 210

Streets (cont.) Boulevard St-Germain 246 Boulevard St-Michel 260 Butte-aux-Cailles 274–5 Cour Damoye and Passage du Cheval Blanc 110 Cour du Commerce St-André 242 La Campagne à Paris 137 Les Grands Boulevards 179 Little Athens 261 Passage des Postes 276 Point Zéro 81 Quai d’Austerlitz 272 Quai des Orfèvres 80 Quai Saint-Bernard 272 Quartier Jourdain 136–7 Rue Bréa 289 Rue Campagne-Première 289 Rue Chanoinesse 81 Rue Cler 209 Rue de Belleville 132 Rue de Buci 247 Rue de Fürstenberg 247 Rue de la Roquette 107 Rue Dénoyez 133, 137 Rue des Arènes 277 Rue des FrancsBourgeois 98 Rue des Martyrs 165 Rue des Rosiers 93, 98 Rue du Chat qui Pêche 261 Rue du Fouarre 261 Rue Galande 261 Rue Mouffetard 269, 276 Rue Oberkampf 109 Rue Sainte-Marthe 124 Rue St-André-desArts 242 Rue St-Séverin 260 see also Squares St-Séverin 255, 261 St-Sulpice 243

T Taxes and refunds 315 Taxis 312 Théâtre Mogador 41, 175 Theatre see Entertainment venues Theme parks Disneyland® Paris 300–303 Three Shades, The (Rodin) 209 Tickets 47, 76 Travel 312 Time zones 314

Tipping 47, 309 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 159, 161, 164 Tour Jean Sans Peur 189 Tour Montparnasse 54, 284, 288 Tours 313 Tour St-Jacques 190 Towers Eiffel 10, 35, 54, 200–201, 219, 221 Tour Jean Sans Peur 189 Tour Montparnasse 54, 284, 288 Tour St-Jacques 190 Train travel 310; see also Stations Trams 312 Travellers with specific requirements 309

V Versailles see Palace and Gardens of Versailles Vineyards Clos Montmartre 166 Viollete-le-Duc, Eugène 70

W Walks see Short Walks Walls and fortifications 271 Enceinte de Philippe Auguste 96 Portes St-Denis et St-Martin 125 Websites and apps 314 Whitman, George 258–9 Wilde, Oscar 131 Wine 53, 193 Winged Victory of Samothrace 187 With the Black Arc (Kandinsky) 91 World Fairs 211, 220, 230 World War II 51, 63, 204–5

Z Zadkine, Ossip 287 Zoos and aquariums Aquarium de Paris 37, 23 Jardin des Plantes 36 Ménagerie 270–71 Parc de Vincennes 36, 57, 294–5

PHRASE BOOK IN AN EMERGENCY Help! Stop! Call a doctor! Call an ambulance! Call the police! Call the fire brigade! Where is the nearest telephone? Where is the nearest hospital?

Au secours! Arrêtez! Appelez un médecin! Appelez une ambulance! Appelez la police! Appelez les pompiers! Où est le téléphone le plus proche? Où est l’hôpital le plus proche?

oh sekoor aret-ay apuh-lay uñ medsañ apuh-lay oon oñboo-loñs apuh-lay lah poh-lees apuh-lay leh poñ-peeyay oo ay luh tehlehfon luh ploo prosh oo ay l’opeetal luh ploo prosh

COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS Yes No Please Thank you Excuse me Hello Goodbye Good night Morning Afternoon Evening Yesterday Today Tomorrow Here There What/which? When? Why? Where?

Oui Non S’il vous plaît Merci Excusez-moi Bonjour Au revoir Bonsoir Le matin L’après-midi Le soir Hier Aujourd’hui Demain Ici Là Quoi/quel, quelle? Quand? Pourquoi? Où?

wee noñ seel voo play mer-see exkoo-zay mwah boñzhoor oh ruh-vwar boñ-swar matañ l’apreh-meedee swar eeyehr oh-zhoor-dwee duhmañ ee-see lah kwah/kel, kel koñ poor-kwah oo

USEFUL PHRASES How are you? Very well, thank you. Pleased to meet you. See you soon. That’s fine Where is/are...? How far is it to...? Which way to...? Do you speak English? I don’t understand. Could you speak slowly please? I’m sorry.

Comment allezkom-moñ talay vous? voo Très bien, treh byañ, merci. mer-see Enchanté de faire oñshoñ-tay duh fehr votre connaissance. votr kon-ay-sans A bientôt. byañ-toh C’est bon say bon Où est/sont...? ooay/soñ Combien de kom-byañ duh keelokilometres d’ici à...? metr d’ee-see ah Quelle est la kel ay lah deerdirection pour...? ek-syoñ poor Parlez-vous par-lay voo anglais? oñg-lay Je ne zhuh nuh komcomprends pas. proñ pah Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-lay moins vite s’il mwañ veet seel vous plaît? voo play Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah

USEFUL WORDS big small hot cold good bad enough well open closed left right straight on near far up down early late entrance exit toilet free, unoccupied free, no charge

grand petit chaud froid bon/bien mauvais assez bien ouvert fermé gauche droite tout droite près loin en haut en bas de bonne heure en retard l’entrée la sortie les toilettes, le WC libre gratuit

groñ puh-tee show frwah boñ/byañ moh-veh assay byañ oo-ver fer-meh gohsh drwaht too drwaht preh lwañ oñ oh oñ bah duh bon urr oñ ruh-tar l’on-tray sor-tee twah-let, vay-see leebr grah-twee

MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL I’d like to place a long-distance call. I’d like to make a reverse charge call. I’ll try again later. Can I leave a message? Hold on. Could you speak up a little please? local call

Je voudrais faire un zhuh voo-dreh fehr uñ appel á l’étranger. apel a laytroñ-zhay Je voudrais faire une zhuh voo-dreh fehr communication oon komoonikahen PCV. syoñ oñ peh-seh-veh Je rappelerai zhuh rapeleray plus tard. ploo tar Est-ce que je peux es-keh zhuh puh laisser un message? leh-say uñ mehsazh Ne quittez pas, nuh kee-tay pah s’il vous plaît. seel voo play Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo parlay un peu plus fort? uñ puh ploo for la communication komoonikahsyoñ locale low-kal

SHOPPING How much does this cost? I would like ... Do you have? I’m just looking. Do you take credit cards? Do you take traveller’s cheques? What time do you open? What time do you close? This one. That one. expensive cheap size, clothes size, shoes white black red yellow green blue

C’est combien say kom-byañ s’il vous plaît? seel voo play Je voudrais... zhuh voo-dray Est-ce que vous avez es-kuh voo zavay Je regarde zhuh ruhgar seulement. suhlmoñ Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh kart de crédit? duh kreh-dee Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo acceptez les zaksept-ay leh cheques de shek duh voyages? vwayazh A quelle heure ah kel urr vous êtes ouvert? voo zet oo-ver A quelle heure ah kel urr vous êtes fermé? voo zet fer-may Celui-ci suhl-wee-see Celui-là suhl-wee-lah cher shehr pas cher, pah shehr, bon marché boñ mar-shay la taille tye la pointure pwañ-tur blanc bloñ noir nwahr rouge roozh jaune zhohwn vert vehr bleu bluh

TYPES OF SHOP antique shop bakery bank bookshop butcher cake shop cheese shop chemist convenience store dairy department store delicatessen fishmonger gift shop greengrocer hairdresser market newsagent post office shoe shop supermarket tobacconist travel agent

le magasin maga-zañ d’antiquités d’oñteekee-tay la boulangerie booloñ-zhuree la banque boñk la librairie lee-brehree la boucherie boo-shehree la pâtisserie patee-sree la fromagerie fromazh-ree la pharmacie farmah-see l’alimentation alee-moñta-syoñ la crémerie krem-ree le grand magasin groñ maga-zañ la charcuterie sharkoot-ree la poissonnerie pwasson-ree le magasin de maga-zañ duh cadeaux kadoh le marchand mar-shoñ duh de légumes lay-goom le coiffeur kwafuhr le marché marsh-ay le magasin de maga-zañ duh journaux zhoor-no la poste, pohst, le bureau de poste, booroh duh pohst, le PTT peh-teh-teh le magasin maga-zañ de chaussures duh show-soor le supermarché soo pehr-marshay le tabac tabah l’agence l’azhoñs de voyages duh vwayazh

SIGHTSEEING abbey art gallery bus station cathedral church garden

l’abbaye la galerie d’art la gare routière la cathédrale l’église le jardin

l’abay-ee galer-ree dart gahr roo-tee-yehr katay-dral l’aygleez zhar-dañ

323

library museum railway station tourist information office town hall closed for public holiday

la bibliothèque le musée la gare (SNCF) les renseignements touristiques, le syndicat d’initiative l’hôtel de ville fermeture jour férié

beebleeo-tek moo-zay gahr (es-en-say-ef) roñsayn-moñ toorees-teek, sandeeka d’eenee-syateev l’ohtel duh veel fehrmeh-tur zhoor fehree-ay

STAYING IN A HOTEL Do you have a vacant room? double room, with double bed twin room single room room with a bath, shower porter key I have a reservation.

Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-zavay avez une chambre? oon shambr la chambre à deux shambr ah duh personnes, avec pehr-son avek un un grand lit gronñ lee la chambre à shambr ah deux lits duh lee la chambre à shambr ah une personne oon pehr-son la chambre avec shambr avek salle de bains, sal duh bañ, une douche oon doosh le garçon gar-soñ la clé klay J’ai fait une zhay fay oon réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ

EATING OUT Have you got a table? I want to reserve a table. The bill please. I am a vegetarian/ vegan. Waitress/ waiter menu fixed-price menu cover charge wine list glass bottle knife fork spoon breakfast lunch dinner main course starter, first course dish of the day wine bar café rare medium well done

Avez-vous une table de libre? Je voudrais réserver une table. L’addition s’il vous plaît. Je suis végétarien/ végétalien. Madame, Mademoiselle/ Monsieur le menu, la carte le menu à prix fixe le couvert la carte des vins le verre la bouteille le couteau la fourchette la cuillère le petit déjeuner le déjeuner le dîner le plat principal l’entrée, le hors d’oeuvre le plat du jour le bar à vin le café saignant à point bien cuit

avay-voo oon tahbl duh leebr zhuh voo-dray rayzehr-vay oon tahbl l’adee-syoñ seel voo play zhuh swee vezhay-tehryañ/ vezgay-tahlyañ. mah-dam, mah-demwahzel/ muh-syuh men-oo, kart men-oo ah pree feeks koo-vehr kart-deh vañ vehr boo-tay koo-toh for-shet kwee-yehr puh-tee deh-zhuh-nay deh-zhuh-nay dee-nay plah prañsee-pal l’oñ-tray, orduhvr plah doo zhoor bar ah vañ ka-fay say-noñ ah pwañ byañ kwee

MENU DECODER apple baked banana beef beer, draught beer boiled bread butter cake cheese chicken chips chocolate cocktail coffee dessert dry duck egg fish fresh fruit garlic

324

la pomme cuit au four la banane le boeuf la bière, bière à la pression bouilli le pain le beurre le gâteau le fromage le poulet les frites le chocolat le cocktail le café le dessert sec le canard l’oeuf le poisson le fruit frais l’ail

pom kweet oh foor banan buhf bee-yehr, bee-yehr ah lah pres-syoñ boo-yee pan burr gah-toh from-azh poo-lay freet shoko-lah cocktail kah-fay deh-ser sek kanar l’uf pwah-ssoñ frwee freh l’eye

grilled ham ice, ice cream lamb lemon lobster meat milk mineral water mustard oil olives onions orange fresh orange juice fresh lemon juice pepper poached pork potatoes prawns rice roast roll salt sauce sausage, fresh seafood shellfish snails soup steak sugar tea toast vegetables vinegar water red wine white wine

grillé gree-yay le jambon zhoñ-boñ la glace glas l’agneau l’anyoh le citron see-troñ le homard omahr la viande vee-yand le lait leh l’eau minérale l’oh meeney-ral la moutarde moo-tard l’huile l’weel les olives leh zoleev les oignons leh zonyoñ l’orange l’oroñzh l’orange pressée l’oroñzh press-eh le citron pressé see-troñ press-eh le poivre pwavr poché posh-ay le porc por les pommes de terre pom-duh tehr les crevettes kruh-vet le riz ree rôti row-tee le petit pain puh-tee pañ le sel sel la sauce sohs la saucisse sohsees les fruits de mer frwee duh mer les crustaces kroos-tas les escargots leh zes-kar-goh la soupe, le potage soop, poh-tazh le bifteck, le steack beef-tek, stek le sucre sookr le thé tay pain grillé pan greeyay les légumes lay-goom le vinaigre veenaygr l’eau l’oh le vin rouge vañ roozh le vin blanc vañ bloñ

NUMBERS 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1,000

zéro un, une deux trois quatre cinq six sept huit neuf dix onze douze treize quatorze quinze seize dix-sept dix-huit dix-neuf vingt trente quarante cinquante soixante soixante-dix quatre-vingts quatre-vingt-dix cent mille

zeh-roh uñ, oon duh trwah katr sañk sees set weet nerf dees oñz dooz trehz katorz kañz sehz dees-set dees-weet dees-nerf vañ tront karoñt sañkoñt swasoñt swasoñt-dees katr-vañ katr-vañ-dees soñ meel

une minute une heure une demi-heure lundi mardi mercredi jeudi vendredi samedi dimanche

oon mee-noot oon urr oon duh-mee urr luñ-dee mar-dee mehrkruh-dee zhuh-dee voñdruh-dee sam-dee dee-moñsh

TIME one minute one hour half an hour Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS DK would like to thank the following for their contribution to the previous edition: Elspeth Beidas, Alan Tillier, Bryan Pirolli, Zoe Ross The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs: Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top 123RF.com: Jon Bilous 18tc, 114-5cl; Francesco Bucchi 303br; Nattee Chalermtiragool 32br; Christian Mueller 267bl; Inna Nerlich 89cra. 4Corners: Susanne Kremer 4. Alamy Stock Photo: Todd Anderson 186cr; Andrzej Gorzkowski Photography 299bl; ART Collection 60bl; Peter Barritt 185cr; Martin Beddall 303bl; Tibor Bognar 83tr; Piere Bonbon 24tl, 262-3; Eden Breitz 217cb; Helen Cathcart 119tr; Chronicle 70br, 131tr; Daisy Corlett 49b; Crowdspark / Newzulu / Dan Pier 134tc; Cultura Creative Ltd / Aziz Ary Neto 63br; Directphoto Collection 23tl, 234-5; edpics 33b, 48-9t; Chad Ehlers 302cla; Everett Collection Inc 283cr; EyeEm / Cristian Bortes 10clb; PE Forsberg 99tc; Giovanni Guarino Photo 46-7b; GL Archive 60br, 131ca; Granger Historical Picture Archive 62cr; hitandrun / Greg Meeson / © Succession Brancusi - All rights reserved. ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Brancusi’s studio being exhibited at the Pompidou Centre in Paris 91crb; hemis.fr / Arnaud Chicurel 247tl, / Bertrand Gardel 36b, 36-7t, 43tr, 59bl, 98bl, 106-7b, 143tr, 219cra, 219crb, / Henri Bouchard Apollo © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 220tr, / Franck Guiziou 25, 112bl, 113t, 290-1, / René Mattes 28crb, 289tl, / Bertrand Rieger 137br, 245br, / Gilles Rigoulet 270bl, / Sylvain Sonnet 96tl, / © Succession Picasso / DACS, London 2018 Femmes à leur toilette (Women washing) 88-9b; Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / The Print Collector 61tl; IanDagnall Computing 131crb; Iconotec / Arthur Leroy 120b; imageBROKER / Daniel Schoenen 57cr; JaiHoneybrook 294cr; Boris Karpinski 8cla; John Kellerman 17bl, 92-3b, 100-1, 121t, 165br, 242b, 242-3t; Keystone Pictures USA 131br; Elena Korchenko 297t; Lautaro 219bl; Chris Lawrence 258b; Lebrecht Music and Arts Photo Library 104br; Elizabeth Leyden 8-9b; lugris 105; Luciano Mortula / Centre Pompidou in Paris: Studio Piano & Rogers, courtesy of Fondazione Renzo Piano and Rogers Stirk Harbour +

Partners 90-1b; Paul Maguire 58bl; Perry van Munster 48tc; National Geographic Creative 81tl; Niday Picture Library 61bc; John Norman 28cr; Samantha Ohlsen 58br, 259t; Paris 94crb; Pawel Libera Images 3001t; Photo 12 / Gilles Targat 136cr, 176bl; Photononstop / Christophe Lehenaff 42-3b,/ Daniel Thierry 270-1; Pierre Pochan 136t; Premium Stock Photography GmbH / Scattolin 190-1bc; Prisma by Dukas Presseagentur GmbH / Raga Jose Fuste 230bl; Paul Quayle / Henri Cochet Statue outside Roland Garros, Paris 293br; National Museum of Modern Art in the Pompidou Centre, Paris / Mervyn Rees / Xavier Veilhan © Veilhan / ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Le Rhinocéros 91cra; Robertharding ,/ Stuart Dee 46-7t, / Julian Elliott 233tr, / Godong 33ca, / H P Merten 104clb, / De Rocker 156cra; RossHelen editorial 221; Francois Roux 11cr; Peter Schickert 96-7b; Science History Images 61cla; Shawshots 217crb; SJH Photography 301bl; Sergey Skleznev 267cr; William Stevens 40b; Street Art 18bl, 126-7; Claude Thibault 121br; Morgane Tostain 59c; Tuul and Bruno Morandi / © Succession Picasso / DACS, London 2018 Head of a Woman 88tr; Lionel Urman / Splash News 41tl; Frédéric Vielcanet 51br; Tracey Whitefoot 287br; Gari Wyn Williams 274bc. AWL Images: Jon Arnold 119tl, / Tour eiffel- Illuminations Pierre Bideau 21t, 196-7cl; Jan Christopher Becke 8clb, 173cla, 189tr, 239tr; Walter Bibikow 39cr; Danita Delimont Stock 297cl; Bertrand Gardel 12-3bc. Candelaria: Fabien Voileau 53b. Cité Des Sciences et de L’industrie:: EPPD CSI / JP 145bl, / E Luider 144-5t. La Cuisine Cooking: 8cl. Depositphotos Inc: packshot 299clb; wjarek 208tr. Disneyland® Paris: © Disney / Pixar: 301clb, 301br. Dorling Kindersley: Neil Lukas 283clb, / © Succession Brancusi - All rights reserved. ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 The Kiss 282br; Musee Marmottan / Susanna Price 304tr; Neil Lukas / CNHMS, Paris / Alphonse Terroir Denis Diderot (1925) 253tr; Jules Selmes 77t, 231crb; Valerio Vincenzo 208b.

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Dreamstime.com: Adisa 80bl; Georgios Alexandris 43cl; Andersastphoto 193b; Andrey Andronov 191tr; Antoine2k 51tr, 118-9b, 306-7b; Apn68140 55cla; Valentin Armianu 13cr, 214-5; Astormfr 16c, 66-7; Petr ävec 32-3tl; Bargotiphotography 216; Christian Bertrand 11tc; Ilona Melanie Bicker 30t; Lembi Buchanan 133t, 209tl; Michal Cervenansky 284b; Christianm 176tc; Nicolas De Corte 159t; Ionut David 24cb, 278-9; Digikhmer 210-1b; Matthew Dixon 204b; Yury Dmitrienko 41cr; Dennis Dolkens 75cr, 124-5b, 296-7b; Chris Dorney 228bl; Viorel Dudau 173tr; Tatiana Dyuvbanova 157; Evolove 218-9t; Fayethequeen93 146crb; Ruslan Gilmanshin 172-3b; Rostislav Glinsky 6-7; Mikhail Gnatkovskiy 30bl; Gornostaj 167cra; Ioana Grecu 223bl; Alberto Grosescu 13br; Guillohmz 119cla, 298crb; Bensliman Hassan 146b, 275bl; Dieter Hawlan 302b; Infomods 227t; Javarman 269tr; Wieslaw Jarek 26crb; Valerijs Jegorovs 174-5b; Jeromecorreia 194bl; Joymsk 158bl; Juliengrondin 44-5b; Aliaksandr Kazlou 131tl; Kmiragaya 286-7t; Sergii Kolesnyk 173tl; Maryna Kordiumova 185crb; Nikolai Korzhov 187br; Denys Kuvaiev 135br; Bo Li 185bl; Giancarlo Liguori 22, 212-3; José Lledû 30crb; Madrabothair 76b, 132bl, 132-3b; Tomas Marek 10ca, 282-3t; Maurizio De Mattei 184-5t; Meunierd 293crb; Minacarson 111br, 261tl,/ © DB-ADAGP Paris and DACS, London 2018 Les Deux Plateaux, Palais Royal 188-9bl; Mistervlad 26t; Luciano Mortula 23cb, 248-9; MrFly 200clb; Neirfy 2-3; Nui7711 94-5t; William Perry 74bl, 75tr, 79tr; Kovalenkov Petr 109b, 222t; Photofires 298-9t; Photogolfer 223br, 305tr; Ekaterina Pokrovsky 13tc; John Queenan 12clb; Redlunar 254bl; Rosshelen 19bl, 152-3; Eq Roy/ Architect Dominique Perrault © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 The Bibliotheque Nationale de France 274-5t; Jozef Sedmak 192tr; Siraanamwong 239cla; Alena Sobaleva 256b; Smontgom65 28t; Spytsekouras 255b; Darius Strazdas 107tc, 130-1b; Worakan Thaomor 206br; Tigger76 84-5; Ukrphoto 238cra; UlyssePixel 110-1b; Valio84sl 12tc; VanderWolfImages 20t, 168-9; Ivan Varyukhin 303clb; Vitalyedush 253tl, 257t, 304b; Vvoevale 78-9bc, 160t; Dennis Van De Water 266-7, 268bl; Dirk Wenzel 285tl; Jason Yoder 73bl; Zatletic 75c. Getty Images: Atlantide Phototravel, / Massimo Borchi 206cl; Bettmann 283br; Centre Pompidou in Paris: Studio Piano & Rogers, courtesy of Fondazione Renzo Piano and Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners / Busà Photography 91c; Guillaume Chanson 238-9b; Christophel Fine Art 45cl, 62tl; Corbis Documentary / P Deliss 73cra; Ian

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Cumming 48bl; De Agostini / C. Sappa 70bl; DEA / Biblioteca Ambrosiana 217bl; DigitalVision / Matteo Colombo 64-5; Sizun Eye 35tr; Neil Farrin 288cl; Owen Franken 56b, 195tl; Gallo Images / Ayhan Altun 73cr; Bertrand Guay 108tr; Francois Guillot 41br; Heritage Images 217cra; Bruno De Hogues 10-11bc, 26bl, 276bl; Boris Horvat 217cl; Hulton Archive 200bl; Hulton Deutsch / Corbis Historical 61tr, 70fbl; Julian Elliott Photography 246bl; Keystone 283cb; Photo Josse / Leemage / Gregor Erhart Mary Magdalene or ‘La Belle Allemande’ (early 16th century) 186bl; Lonely Planet Images / Russell Mountford 104cla; MathieuRivrin 200-1; Michael Ochs Archives / Waring Abbott 73tr; Moment Open / AG photographe 177t; Nicoolay 60t; Maksim Ozerov 38-9t; Marc Piasecki 45t; Joe Daniel Price 206-7cr; Stephane De Sakutin 267br; The Image Bank Unreleased / Atlantide Phototravel / Massimo Borchi 59br; Jean Victor w 61br; Pascal Le Segretain 40tl; Sylvain Sonnet 28bl; Stockbyte / Bruno De Hogues 232bl; Philippe Le Tellier 63bl; Topical Press Agency 220bl; ullstein bild Dtl. 283tr; Universal Images Group 62br; Veronique de Viguerie 70fbr; Ivan Vukelic 20cb, 180-1cl; Bruce Yuanyue Bi 47crb. iStockphoto.com: AlexKozlov 166bl; AlpamayoPhoto 162-3; anouchka 38bl; Xavier Arnau 71; asab974 30cr; AzmanJaka 52-3t; B&M Noskowski 54-5b; Silvia Bianchini 11br; borchee 252cl; brenac 50crb; conejota 63cra; Dirk94025 55crb; DKart 228-9t; espiegle 211tl; Mario Guti 240-1bl; Gwengoat 50tl; Michel Hincker 122-3; Ihor_Tailwind 179tl; isatis 293bc; isogood 178cla; jacoblund 37cla; Jasckal 277cr; JoseIgnacioSoto 50-1b, 70crb; LembiBuchanan 34-5bc, 57tl; Valerie Loiseleux 164-5t; MarcelloLand 34tl; Nikada 35cl, 82bl, olrat 292-3t; S. Greg Panosian 226-7b; Pavliha 224-5; sasasasa 124clb; Sean3810 70cra; serts 39cl, 244-5t; Starcevic 54-5tr; tichr 17t; VvoeVale 47cla. La Fine Mousse: Alexandre Martin 52br. Le Musée du Quai Branly - Jaccques Chirac: Lois Lammerhuber 202-3b; Vincent Mercier / © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018, Exterior by Jean Nouvel 202clb; Patrick Gries / Bruno Descoings 203cra. Musee Antoine Bourdelle: Dorine Potel 286bl.

Musee de Cluny: M. Chassat 254tl. Musée de Louvre: ©Pyramide du Louvre, arch. I. M. Pei 11tl, 20cb, 32br, 180, 184-5t, 185bl. Musée de Montmartre: Jean-Pierre Delagarde 161b. Parc de la Villette: William Beaucardet 142-3b, 143cla; Pierre-Emmanuel Rastoin 150-1t. Philharmonie de Paris: William Beaucardet / Architect Jean Nouvel © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 147t. Picfair.com: Benis Arapovic 260bl. Rex by Shutterstock: Granger 62bc; Moviestore Collection 44tl. RMN: Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre) / Peter Willi / Trésor de l’abbaye de SaintDenis 187tl. Robert Harding Picture Library: Stuart Dee 239cl; Julian Elliott 35br; Jakob+MacFarlane - Cite de la mode et du design, Quai de Austerlitz, Paris / Javier Gil 272-3b.

Front Flap: Alamy Stock Photo: Piere Bonbon t; Elena Korchenko cla. AWL Images: Jan Christopher Becke bl. Dreamstime.com: Ionut David br. iStockphoto.com: shishic cra. SuperStock: hemis.fr / Jean-Pierre Degas c. Sheet Map Cover: Getty Images: LeoPatrizi. Cover images: Front and Spine: Getty Images: LeoPatrizi. Back: Alamy Stock Photo: John Kellerman tr; La Cuisine Cooking: c; Dreamstime.com: Rosshelen cla; Getty Images: LeoPatrizi b. For further information see: www.dkimages.com Cartographic Data ERA-Maptec Ltd (Dublin) adapted with permission from original survey and mapping by Shobunsha (Japan) Illustrators Stephen Conlin, Stephen Gyapay, Maltings Partnership, John Fox Nick Gibbard, David Harris, Kevin Jones Associates, John Woodcock

SuperStock: 4X5 COLLECTION / Musee Picasso / © Succession Picasso / DACS, London 2018 The Kiss (1969) by Pablo Picasso 89br; Francisco de Zurbaran Lying in State of St Bonaventura (c.1629) 186tl; age fotostock / Heinz-Dieter Falkenstein 75br, / T. Papageorgiou 42tl, / Carlos S. Pereyra 26cr; Javier Larrea / Centre George Pompidou / Vassily Kandinsky With the Black Arc (1912) 91tl; agf photo 53cla; eps / Marka 62-3tr; hemis / Maurizio Borgese 218br, / Bertrand Gardel 57br, 63tr, 294bl, 295, / Architect Jean Nouvel © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Le Parc de la Villette, Philharmonie de Paris 19tl, 138-9 and Paris Philharmonic Concert Hall 148-9, / Jean-Pierre Degas 56tl, / Hervé Hughes 150br, / Stéphane Lemaire 297cra, / Lionel Montico /Architect Adrien Fainsilber © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 La Geode, Parc de la Villette 145br, / Hervé Tardy 267crb; imageBROKER / Stephan Gabriel / Architect Jean Nouvel © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Exterior of Musee Du Quai Branley - Jacques Chirac 203tl; Photononstop / Architect Adrien Fainsilber © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Cite des Sciences et de L’industrie 145clb; Universal Images 299crb. THATMuse: Daisy de Plume 37br.

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This edition updated by Contributor M. Astella Saw Senior Editor Alison McGill Senior Designers Tania Da Silva Gomes, Vinita Venugopal Project Editors Parnika Bagla, Rada Radojicic Project Art Editor Ankita Sharma Editor Kanika Praharaj Picture Research Coordinator Sumita Khatwani Assistant Picture Research Administrator Vagisha Pushp Jacket Coordinator Bella Talbot Jacket Designer Laura O’Brien Senior Cartographic Editor Mohammad Hassan Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar Cartographer Ashif DTP Designer Rohit Rojal Senior Production Editor Jason Little Production Controller Rebecca Parton Managing Editors Shikha Kulkarni, Hollie Teague Deputy Managing Editor Beverly Smart Managing Art Editors Bess Daly, Priyanka Thakur Art Director Maxine Pedliham Publishing Director Georgina Dee

First edition 1993 Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited, One Embassy Gardens, 8 Viaduct Gardens, London SW11 7BW Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018 This book was made with Forest Stewardship Council ™ certified paper – one small step in DK’s commitment to a sustainable future. For more information go to www.dk.com/our-green-pledge

A NOTE FROM DK EYEWITNESS The rapid rate at which the world is changing is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard to ensure that this edition of Paris is accurate and up-to-date, we know that opening hours alter, standards shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice we’ve got something wrong or left something out, we want to hear about it. Please get in touch at [email protected]

Copyright © 1993, 2021 Dorling Kindersley Limited A Penguin Random House Company 21 22 23 24 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN: 1542 1554 ISBN: 978 0 2415 0968 5 Printed and bound in China. www.dk.com

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