Eyewitness Travel Amsterdam 9780241462768

Citation preview

EYEWITNESS

AMSTERDAM

CONTENTS

DISCOVER 6 Welcome to Amsterdam ........................... 8

Amsterdam Your Way ...............................28

Reasons to Love Amsterdam............... 10

A Year in Amsterdam................................ 50

Explore Amsterdam.....................................14

A Brief History ...............................................52

Getting to Know Amsterdam ................16

A Canal Walk ..................................................56

Amsterdam Itineraries ............................. 20

EXPERIENCE 66 Nieuwe Zijde ......................................... 68

Jordaan and the Western Islands ..................................152

Oude Zijde .............................................. 86

Plantage................................................... 162

Central Canal Ring ........................... 106

Noord ........................................................ 176

Museum Quarter ...............................120

Beyond Amsterdam .........................184

Eastern Canal Ring ...........................138

NEED TO KNOW 220 Before You Go ............................................ 222

Index ................................................................ 230

Getting Around .......................................... 224

Phrase Book .................................................236

Practical Information ..............................228

Acknowledgments...................................238

Left: A bike locked up on a bridge in the evening Previous page: Montelbaanstoren seen from the Oudeschans Front cover: Bicycles lining a bridge over a canal

Amsterdam’s skyline at dusk

DISCOVER

Welcome to Amsterdam .............................8 Reasons to Love Amsterdam.................10 Explore Amsterdam...................................... 14 Getting to Know Amsterdam ................. 16 Amsterdam Itineraries ...............................20 Amsterdam Your Way ................................ 28 A Year in Amsterdam................................. 50 A Brief History ................................................ 52 A Canal Walk ...................................................56

WELCOME TO DISCOVER Welcome to Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM With its reflective waterways, tilting canal houses and humpback bridges, Amsterdam is undeniably picturesque. But this city contains multitudes: museums and street art, cruises and cycle rides, Dutch cuisine and world street food. Whatever your dream trip to Amsterdam includes, this DK Eyewitness travel guide is the perfect companion.

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2 1 A canal reflecting the Red Light District’s illuminations. 2 A couple relaxing outside a colourful café. 3 Characterful houses lining one of the canals.

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Amsterdam is a city where both the past and the present are keenly felt. Majestic 17thcentury mansions are perfectly preserved, while 20th-century warehouses have been transformed into quirky entertainment complexes. The vast Rijksmuseum, with its Old Masters, sits beside the Stedelijk Museum, which displays puzzling contemporary art installations. Infamously hedonistic, the city’s nightlife encompasses so much more than the Red Light District. As well as lively canalside cafés, there are first-class concert venues, including the innovative Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ. Beyond Amsterdam, postcard-pretty villages and heritage-rich cities are never far away. Windswept beaches, flat, windmill-dotted fields and striped bulbfields punctuate the

Dutch landscape. The cities have plenty to offer too. There’s ultramodern Rotterdam and historic Haarlem, stately Den Haag and laid-back Leiden. World-class museums await, including the Mauritshuis and Utrecht’s museum of Miffy – the little white rabbit. With so many different things to discover and experience, Amsterdam can seem overwhelming. We’ve broken the city down into easily navigable chapters, with detailed itineraries, expert local knowledge and colourful, comprehensive maps to help you plan the perfect visit. Whether you’re staying for a weekend, a week, or longer, this DK Eyewitness guide will ensure that you see the very best Amsterdam has to offer. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Amsterdam.

DISCOVER Reasons to Love Amsterdam

REASONS TO LOVE

AMSTERDAM

It’s undoubtedly pretty. It’s renowned for its nightlife. It moves on bicycles and boats. Ask any Amsterdammer and you’ll hear a different reason why they love their city. Here, we pick some of our favourites.

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RIJKSMUSEUM Few art collections can rival the concentrated brilliance of Amsterdam’s most famous museum. Don’t miss Rembrandt’s masterful The Night Watch (p124).

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CRUISING THE CITY’S CANALS Admire the unique façades of canal houses and listen to the water lapping against your boat while you explore the rings of attractive waterways (p48).

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FUNKY STREET ART Graffiti has been given a veneer of respectability in recent years, but there are always exciting and raw works to be found when you know where to look, including these works by BRONIK and Ives.One (p34).

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OUDE KERK Tread in the footsteps of centuries of worshippers, through coloured reflections cast by the 16th-century stained-glass windows, at the city’s oldest church (p90).

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MUSEUM HET REMBRANDTHUIS Visit this moving museum to discover the real man behind the paintings. You can almost feel Rembrandt’s hand on your shoulder as you walk around the artist’s former home (p94).

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SAMPLING JENEVER Savour the taste of the rich, malty grandfather of gin in a warmly lit proeflokaal. In the 17th century, customers could sample jenever in these tasting rooms before buying it.

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DISCOVER Reasons to Love Amsterdam

JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM This emotive complex of synagogues reflects the wealth and depth of the city’s Jewish heritage (p92).

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BUZZING BAR SCENE This is a nocturnal city. Enjoy a slow pint at one of Amsterdam’s many traditional brown cafés, or make a beeline for the buzzing terraces lining the Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein.

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STREET FOOD AT ALBERT CUYPMARKT Savour everything from traditional soused haring (herring), served with raw onions and gherkins, to dishes from Asia, Africa, South America, the Middle East and the Mediterranean at this market (p145).

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SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM The majestic Amsterdam, a perfect copy of an 18th-century East Indiaman, is the flagship of this fabulous maritime museum, which harks back to when the Netherlands was a seafaring superpower (p166).

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CYCLING AROUND NOORD A trip to the Dutch capital wouldn’t be complete without enjoying the national pastime: cycling. Venture out on two wheels to the graffitiadorned streets of Noord, pausing at offbeat cafés (p44).

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VAN GOGH MUSEUM Marvel at the golden layers of Sunflowers, the dizzying perspective of The Bedroom, and the contrasting colours of Irises at this temple to the Dutch artist (p128).

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IJ Hallen IJ Hallen

EXPLORE

NDSM

NDSM

AMSTERDAM This guide divides Amsterdam into eight colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown on the map below. Find out more about each area on the following pages. Away from the city, Beyond Amsterdam (p184) covers Noord-Holland, Zuid-Holland, Utrecht and Gelderland.

Westerpark Westerpark

EYE

EYE

A'DAM Tore A'DAM Toren

JORDAAN AND THE JORDAAN AND THE WESTERN ISLANDS WESTERN ISLANDS p152

p152

NIEUWE NIEUWE ZIJDE ZIJDE

Anne Anne Frank HuisFrank Huis Nieuwe Kerk

p68

p68

Nieuwe Kerk

Oude KerkOude Kerk KoninklijkKoninklijk Waag Paleis Waag Paleis

Amsterdam Amsterdam Museum Museum

Begijnhof CENTRAL CENTRAL CANAL RING CANAL RING

p106

Begijnhof

Nationale Nationale Opera & Opera & Ballet Ballet

p106

Melkweg Melkweg Internationaal Magere Internationaal Theater Amsterdam Brug Theater Amsterdam Museum Museum Van Loon Van Loon

Vondelkerk Vondelkerk

Rijksmuseum Rijksmuseum

EASTERN EASTERN CANAL CANAL RING RING p138

Vonde lpark Vondelpark

p138

Van Gogh Van Gogh Museum Museum

MUSEUM QUARTER MUSEUM QUARTER p120

p120

Concertgebouw Concertgebouw

Sarphatipark Sarphatipark

Magere Brug

DENMARK

North Sea

NETHERLANDS AMSTERDAM

GREAT BRITAIN

Utrecht Den Haag

Rotterdam

GERMANY

BELGIUM

FRANCE

NOORDNOORD p176

p176

LUX.

AROUND THE NETHERLANDS

en

Tolhuistuin Tolhuistuin

Muziekgebouw Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ aan 't IJ

NEMO NEMO Science Science Museum Het Museum Het ScheepvaartScheepvaartmuseum OUDE ZIJDE museum OUDE ZIJDE

p86

p86

e

PLANTAGE PLANTAGE p162

p162

Ar tis

Ar tis

e g

Tropenmuseum Tropenmuseum

Oosterpark Oosterpark

0 metres 0 metres 800 N 800 N 800 0 yards 0 yards 800

AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam is divided by the many canals that give this city its unique character. The Grachtengordel – the ring of canals that defines the Oude Zijde and Nieuwe Zijde – encloses most of the city’s top attractions, but there’s much to discover beyond this watery perimeter.

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Amsterdam

GETTING TO KNOW

NIEUWE ZIJDE Crammed with hotels, shops, bars and restaurants, this is Amsterdam’s busiest tourist district. At its centre, Dam Square bustles with visitors heading to the sights as street performers clamour to grab their attention. Enclaves like the serene Begijnhof provide a refuge from the “New Side’s” relentless commercialism. Best for

Sightseeing

Home to

Amsterdam Museum, Nieuwe Kerk, Begijnhof, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder

Experience

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Jenever at a traditional proeflokaal

OUDE ZIJDE The “Old Side” is an oddball: an intensely urban quarter where piety and porn sit side by side. While the glow of the Red Light District almost bathes the 14th-century Oude Kerk, the smell of incense does battle with the all-too familiar scent of marijuana wafting down the streets. Best for Heritage

Home to

Oude Kerk, Museum Het Rembrandthuis, Joods Historisch Museum

Experience

The Zeedijk – the main drag of Chinatown

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Best for

Curving between the IJ and the Amstel like concentric ripples in a pond, the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht canals define Amsterdam’s central canal ring. Compared with the cramped Nieuwe Zijde, there’s a more spacious feel to this part of the city. Leidseplein – the area’s hub – is packed with open-air cafés, but the square really comes into its own after dark, when music bars and dance clubs attract throngs of visitors and a sprinkling of locals. In summer, the party scene spills out onto the waterside streets, giving the area a fizzing atmosphere.

Home to

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CENTRAL CANAL RING

Canal trips and scenic strolls Anne Frank Huis

Experience

A ride along the area’s picturesque canals aboard a pedal-driven “canal bike”

MUSEUM QUARTER For lovers of high culture, the Museumplein is what Amsterdam is all about. Three world-class museums and one of the world’s great concert halls stand around a calm green space. Visitors flock here to the square to pose by the Iamsterdam sign, admire Old Masters in the Rijksmuseum and modernists in the Stedelijk Museum, but the Van Gogh Museum is the quarter’s true star. Away from the Museumplein, you’ll find elegant streets defined by wealth and taste. Best for World-class art and classical music

Home to

Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum

Experience

The variety of art on display in Museumplein, before having a picnic in Vondelpark

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Best for

The Singel canal and the Amstel river define this district, while Vijzelstraat and Vijzelgracht cut a straight line through its heart. At the north end of Vijzelstraat is a sight much loved by visitors – the Bloemenmarkt, with its floating flower vendors. South of Singelgracht – in the De Pijp area – the landscape changes. Striking modern architecture replaces the graceful 17th-century canal-house façades. This is Amsterdam’s most multicultural neighbourhood and Albert Cuypmarkt sits at its core, where the air is clouded with enticing scents and vendors call to passersby.

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DISCOVER Getting to Know Amsterdam

EASTERN CANAL RING

Offbeat museums and multicultural street food

Home to Museum Willet-Holthuysen

Experience

The delicious variety of street food on offer along Albert Cuypmarkt for a taste of the multicultural heritage of the Netherlands

JORDAAN AND THE WESTERN ISLANDS Gentrification has taken over much of the once-raffish Jordaan. Old-style taverns are now almost outnumbered by chic boutiques and galleries. As a result, bohemian-minded artists, artisans, performers and other creative types now favour the streets around Westerpark. Despite the chiming of Westerkerk’s bells, the atmosphere here is more hedonistic than holy, with dozens of bars, cafés, galleries and eateries satisfying every desire of a hip clientele. Best for

Quirky shops and galleries

Home to

Historic hofjes and bruin cafés (“brown cafés”)

Experience

An art exhibition, funky dance perfomance or food festival at the vibrant Westergasfabriek cultural complex

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Best for

East of the Amstel, this immaculately planned peninsula of tree-lined avenues and gracious 19thcentury buildings contrasts with the cramped streets of Oude Zijde, which is only a block or two away. At its centre are the green spaces of Artis – the city’s zoo – and Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam, which both offer plenty of space for kids to let off steam. On the gentrified Entrepotdok waterfront, centuries-old warehouses have been turned into upscale apartments. Where the waters of the Nieuwevaart and the Oosterdok meet, a flotilla of historic ships lies at anchor.

Home to

A family day out

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PLANTAGE

Het Scheepvaartmuseum, Tropenmuseum

Experience

A concert at the innovative Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ concert hall

NOORD This edgy neighbourhood is a fiveminute ferry ride across the IJ from the city centre. Noord is a rejuvenated dockland with a youthful, postindustrial vibe. Former factories and warehouses have been transformed into performance venues, ateliers and galleries, eateries and boutique hotels. Street art enlivens once-derelict buildings, flea markets take over formerly sleepy streets and locals lounge on deckchairs on a man-made beach. The 100-m- (328-ft-) high A’DAM Toren, with its trendy clubs and revolving restaurant, is the district’s emblematic landmark of transformation. Best for

Edgy culture and nightlife

Home to

A’DAM Toren

Experience

New horizons on the highest swing in Europe at A’DAM Toren

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Itineraries 1

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1 A rondvaartboot cruising down a canal. 2 A performer in Leidseplein. 3 The Art Deco interior of Café Americain.

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4 Tulips for sale at the Bloemenmarkt.

Amsterdam may be a compact city, but it’s packed with must-see sights and unique experiences. These itineraries will inspire you to make the most of your visit. Link them together to build a week-long itinerary.

5 HOURS Morning

Afternoon

Whether arriving in the city centre from the airport or by train, Centraal Station is the perfect gateway to the heart of this vibrant city. Historically, Amsterdam has been shaped by the water, so choose to explore the city for the first time by boat, rather than on foot. The Open Havenfront, in front of the station, is the best place to hop on a canalboat (p48). There are lots of options to choose from, including multi-stop boats that connect all the major museums for those who want to cover a lot of sights in a short space of time. For a more relaxed introduction to the city, glass-topped rondvaartboten (tour boats) offer trips that last anywhere from one hour to 90 minutes, with multilingual commentary that highlights the opulent 17th-century architecture of the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals, the splendour of the Golden Bend (p116) and canalside landmarks. You’ll cruise past the striking spires of the Westerkerk (p115), and Munttoren (p80), as well as the pretty floating Bloemenmarkt (p146).

After leisurely taking in the city, hop off your boat at Leidseplein – a square filled with street performers eager for applause – where you’ll find plenty of pleasant places for a lunch break. Sit back at one of the open-air cafés and watch the free entertainment (p35). The nearby Café Americain (p115), with its fountain and striped awnings, is a good choice. If the weather is problematic, the interior, with its vibrant stained glass, will not disappoint. After savouring your meal, you’ll be ready to continue discovering the city’s highlights. Many canal cruise companies offer combination tickets that give you fast-track access to the vast Rijksmuseum (p124). Rembrandt’s The Night Watch has pride of place in the museum’s Gallery of Honour, but book a guided Highlights of the Rijksmuseum tour to take in other masterpieces, such as Rembrandt’s The Jewish Bride, Frans Hals’s The Wedding Portrait and The Merry Drinker, and Jan Vermeer’s serenely luminous The Kitchen Maid and Woman Reading a Letter. The perfect end to your first day in the city. 21

DISCOVER Amsterdam Itineraries 1

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1 Discovering the past at the Joods Historisch Museum. 2 The Nationaal Monument dominating Dam Square. 3 Café de Sluyswacht’s outdoor seating.

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4 Cantonese cuisine at Oriental City.

2 DAYS Day 1

Day 2

Morning The Dam is the natural starting

Morning A visit to the Joods Historisch

point for your voyage of discovery around Amsterdam. Pay your respects to Dutch victims of World War II at the Nationaal Monument (p80), then stroll down Rokin to the Amsterdam Museum (p74). For a quick glimpse of the diverse collection, head straight for the Amsterdam Gallery, which is free to enter. After admiring the Old Masters here, say hello to ‘T Lieverdje, a cheeky bronze personification of Amsterdam, on the Spui. Next, take a peek into the tranquil Begijnhof (p78), where Het Houten Huis is one of Amsterdam’s oldest houses. Afternoon Pause for lunch on the Spui at

Café Luxembourg (www.cafeluxembourg. amsterdam), a classic brasserie. Order prawn croquettes and bitterballen (deepfried meat croquettes). Make your way along the canal-lined streets to the Museum Quarter in time for the 3:30pm guided tour of the Van Gogh Museum (p128). Discover more about one of the world’s most famous artists while exploring one of the largest collections of his works. Evening For tasty street dining, amble a

couple of blocks along Stadhouderskade, turning right into Ferdinand Bolstraat. Here, and in the Albert Cuypstraat (p145), you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Museum (p92) is a humbling reminder of how much the city owes to the Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jews who found a tolerant refuge here as early as the 15th century. In sharp contrast, the Waterlooplein Market (p102) around the corner is a worldly clutter of flea-market stalls. Browsers can find everything here: vintage clothing, ethnic jewellery, antiques, curios and even pornography. Afternoon The waterside Café de

Sluyswacht is the perfect place for a snack before strolling to the Museum Het Rembrandhuis (p94). Take your time gaining an insight into the home life of Amsterdam’s greatest painter, before embarking on a leisurely walk along Sint Antoniesbreestraat to the Nieuwmarkt (p97). Pause at In de Waag (p102) for a coffee before walking along Zeedijk – the main thoroughfare of Chinatown. Evening This area is dotted with Chinese,

Indonesian and Thai eateries. Oriental City (p102) is favoured by locals and specializes in Cantonese and Szechuan food. Feast on the fabulous dim sum, with deliciously warming fillings. After dinner, wind up at In de Wildeman (p83), one of the city’s finest proeflokalen, for an after-dinner glass of jenever. 23

DISCOVER Amsterdam Itineraries 1

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1 A family cycling in Amsterdam. 2 Kids exploring NEMO Science Museum’s roof terrace. 3 Enjoying Pllek’s beach.

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4 “Tale of the Whale” at Het Scheepvaartmuseum.

1 DAY

by bike Morning

Afternoon

A trip to Amsterdam wouldn’t be complete without a day spent in the bike saddle. Traversing the centre may seem daunting, especially if you are travelling as a family, so instead head to the laidback Noord. First, pick up your ride from one of the many rental agencies near Centraal Station. Parents with tots and toddlers can rent bikes with child seats or trailers. There are also options for older kids, including off-road BMX wheels for adventurous teens (p44). Next, board one of the blue-and-white ferries that shuttle between Centraal Station and Noord (p42). No ticket is needed, and bikes go free. Take in the contrasting scenes of the canal-lined centre and the industrial north as you cross the IJ river. After a 20-minute cruise, disembark and ride for ten minutes to NDSM (p181), a former shipyard that is now a cultural hotbed. Lock up your bike here. The painted shipping containers house plenty of quirky shops and galleries, but the main attraction for kids is Pllek, which has an artificial beach. For one weekend each month, IJ-Hallen (next to NDSM) hosts Europe’s largest flea market. It’s a fantastic place for anyone who likes a pre-loved bargain (p182).

Stroll down to Café Noorderlicht for a family lunch (p183). Sit inside the light interior if it’s cold and drizzling or relax in its grassy beer garden on a balmy summer day. After lunch, collect your bike, board a ferry back to Centraal Station, then cross the Oosterdok via the bike-friendly Mr J J van der Veldebrug bridge. Ahead is what looks like a fabulous starship at anchor, but is in fact the NEMO Science Museum (p99). Packed with hands-on, cutting-edge tech, this innovative museum will delight all the family. Best of all, the museum has a huge rooftop café. Rest tired legs here, while admiring the panoramic views of Oude Zijde and Plantage, before cycling on. The next stop is Het Scheepvaartmuseum (p166). The flagship attraction here is the Amsterdam, an immaculate reconstruction of a threemasted 18th-century merchant vessel. On the ship, the world of sailors aboard a Dutch East Indiaman in Amsterdam’s colonial heyday is brought to life in “Dare to Discover”, a spectacular Virtual Reality experience. The interactive “Tale of the Whale” exhibition keeps children entertained. After an energetic day, return your bike to the rental agency, which will be less than ten minutes away. 25

DISCOVER Amsterdam Itineraries 1

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1 The lavish lounge of Hotel des Indes. 2 Flowers blooming in front of the Binnenhof in Den Haag. 3 The view from the Domtoren in Utrecht.

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4 A lady admiring a painting at the Mauritshuis.

2 DAYS

beyond Amsterdam Day 1

Day 2

Morning Buy an OV Chipkaart travelcard,

Morning Start the day with a lavish

sold at stations, newsagents and supermarkets, and add credit to it. It’s a half-hour hop from Centraal Station to Utrecht, which is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands (p216). Make a beeline for the Domtoren (p216), a Gothic masterpiece that dominates the city. There’s a magnificent view from the top of the 112-m(367-ft-) high tower – but getting there involves climbing 456 steps. Feet firmly back on solid ground, walk down Lange Nieuwestraat to the red-brick Museum Catharijneconvent (p216). Once inside the 16th-century monastery, built for the Knights of St John, check out the gold and silver church ornaments, jewelled crucifixes and reliquaries in the collection. Afternoon For lunch, wander along the

Oudegracht canal to Meneer Smakers (p216), which serves artisan burgers – including veggie versions. On the way back to the station by way of Steenweg, pause at the Museum Speelklok (p216). Within this church is a magical collection of musical mechanisms. Evening It’s a 38-minute ride to dignified

Den Haag (p202). Check in at the grand Hotel des Indes (p205), freshen up, then sip a champagne cocktail before indulging in a five-course tasting dinner in the hotel’s elegant Restaurant des Indes (p206).

breakfast at the hotel, then set off to discover the stately charm of Den Haag. Start at the Mauritshuis, a six-minute walk away (p204). Gems of the small, but superb, collection include Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp. After treading the wooden-floored galleries, join a guided tour of the stately Binnenhof located just next door (p202). After finding out more about how the country is governed, walk around the reflective Hofvijver to Garoeda (p206). Sample Indonesian cooking at this culinary classic, which opened in 1949. Afternoon It’s time to leave this classy

city. Leiden is under 15 minutes from Den Haag, so there’s plenty of hours left in the day to explore this university town (p198). From the station, take in the picturesque canals and student hang-outs as you head towards the town centre. First, visit the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (p201), with its rich collection of antiquities, then the 15th-century Pieterskerk (p200), which is just around the corner. Evening After a busy day of sightseeing,

relax with a drink at the Grand Café Van Buuren (p200) on Stationsweg, before embarking on the 40-minute journey back to Amsterdam. 27

DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

Pieter Mondriaan Boldly coloured squares and rectangles are the hallmarks of “Piet” Mondriaan’s work. Mondriaan (1870–1944) was one of the driving forces behind De Stijl – the Dutch movement that explored the clarity and purity of straight lines. His Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and Grey (1920) is one of the gems of the Stedelijk Museum’s collection (p130).

Mondriaan’s Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and Grey

AMSTERDAM FOR

ART LOVERS

With its picturesque canal scenes and liberal atmosphere, it’s easy to see why this city has been a haven for artists for centuries. In Amsterdam’s museums, you’ll find both flashy 17th-century portraits and cutting-edge 20th-century works, while street artists are making the city their canvas. Vincent van Gogh Vincent van Gogh (1853–90) began painting in the Netherlands, but his most famous works were inspired by Arles. The sun-soaked colours of Provence can be seen in Sunflowers (1888) and Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles (1888). Continually blighted by depression, he tragically ended his life before his brilliance was recognized. The Van Gogh Museum is an unmissable stop for any art fan (p128).

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TOP

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OFFBEAT ART GALLERIES

Okker Art Gallery ⌂ Vijzelstraat 125 ∑ okkerartgallery.com Displays a selection of works by artists from the CoBrA group, and contemporary paintings and photography. STRAAT The world’s largest street art-museum is housed in a former warehouse next to NDSM (p181). Kochxbos ⌂ Eerste Anjeliers­ dwarsstraat 36 ∑ kochxbox.com Visit Kochxbos for collectable graphic art and 21st-century surrealism.

Did You Know? The I amsterdam City Card grants you free entry to many museums (p229).

A visitor admiring Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring in the Mauritshuis

Jan Vermeer Delft-born Johannes (Jan) Vermeer (1632– 75) is one of the superstars of the 17th century (p127). With works such as The Love Letter (1666), Vermeer helped to create a new form of genre painting where objects in everyday scenes became symbols. In The Love Letter, which hangs in the Rijksmuseum (p124), the lute represents carnal love. Vermeer’s best-known work, Girl With a Pearl Earring (1665), is housed in the Mauritshuis in Den Haag (p204).

Rembrandt van Rijn Born in Leiden, Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606– 69) moved to Amsterdam in 1631, where he found many wealthy patrons. The Night Watch (1642) is his most venerated work and you can admire it, and many of his other paintings, in the Rijksmuseum (p124), but for an insight into the artist’s life, head to the Museum Het Rembrandthuis (p94).

The Van Gogh Museum housing Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles (inset)

The Night Watch domin­ ating the Rijksmuseum’s Gallery of Honour

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

De Machine, an interactive logistics exhibit, at NEMO Science Museum

AMSTERDAM FOR

FAMILIES

Many cities claim to be family-friendly, but Amsterdam really does offer a huge mix of attractions and activities that won’t fail to keep the kids entertained. It’s not just museums either; there are parks and urban beaches, as well as plenty of opportunities for cycling and fun on the water. Open-Air Fun Amsterdam is a green city and spaces like the Vondelpark (p133), Westerpark (p160) and Oosterpark (p172) have free activity areas that are perfect when children need to burn off excess energy. In Noord, there’s Pllek – an urban beach where films are screened in the summer (p181). Beyond the city, at the open-air Zuiderzee Museum (p190), old-style barges transport families back to the early 20th century, where re-enactors in traditional costume demonstrate local crafts.

People relaxing ona sunny day at Pllek in Noord

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Rainy-Day Activities Child-friendly museums are the perfect places to head if the weather turns sour. At The Little Orphanage (p75), young visitors can experience the life of a 17th-century orphan, including milking a cow. Interactive exhibits at NEMO Science Museum (p99) are both educational and entertaining. Kids can protect Earth from meteorites, blow bubbles big enough to stand in and don their lab coats to perform experiments. Tropenmuseum Junior (p169) transports visitors to exotic shores, where they can explore and get inspired by the local culture. Miffy, the small white rabbit, comes to life at Nijntje Museum in Utrecht (p217). Here little ones can listen to storytellers and play.

EAT The Pancake Boat

Cruise with pancakes.  P11 ⌂ Ms. van Riemsdijkweg ∑ pannenkoekenboot.nl ¡¡¡

Kinderkookkafé

Kids are the chefs here.  A8 ⌂ Vondelpark 6B ∑ kinderkookkafe.nl ¡¡¡

NEMO Rooftop Café An open-air terrace.  J4 ⌂ Oosterdok 2 ∑ nemoscience museum.nl

A father and son making model gears at the NEMO Science Museum

¡¡¡

INSIDER TIP

Nature Calls Apart from inside museums, the best places to find toilets are train stations, cafés and department stores. Be prepared to pay 50 cents or to buy a drink.

A family cycling through Haarlem, with one child in a bakfiets

Active Fun With little traffic, cycling is a great way to explore the city (p44). Younger children can ride in front of parents in a child-friendly bakfiets bike trailer. Numerous companies rent tandems and other bikes for all ages, and families can escape to parks like Vondelpark and Amsterdamse Bos to find countless traffic-free cycle paths. Cycling isn’t restricted to the streets – pedalpowered “canal bikes”, seating four or more, are a super way to explore Amsterdam’s canals (p48).

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

AMSTERDAM FOR

FOODIES

Raw herring and bitterballen, street food from four continents and some of the finest restaurants in Europe – Amsterdam really is a mecca for foodies looking to tickle their taste buds. Here we look at some of the city’s must-eats. Dutch Classics Smelling of the sea, with a soft texture inside the crispy exterior, haring (salted raw herring) has been a popular Dutch snack since the Middle Ages. It’s best savoured in June when the first fish of the season land on street stalls, such as Stubbe’s Haring. Bitterballen is another local pick-me-up. These deep-fried meat croquettes are filled with comforting roux and dipped in a bowl of mustard. For lunch or dinner, order erwtensoep, also called snert – a thick soup of split peas and sausage – or stamppot, a hearty dish of mashed potatoes, crispy bacon and winter greens. Looking for something sweet? Pannenkoeken (pancakes) are the answer.

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Crispy, golden bitterballen with mustard

Eat on the Street Asian, South American, Caribbean, African and Middle Eastern influences converge in street food hot spots such as Albert Cuypmarkt, where you’ll find everything from Turkish kebabs to Indonesian nasi goreng (egg-fried rice with meat and vegetables). Meet the people behind the stalls on a walking tour of the city with Hungry Birds (www.hungry birds.nl) or join a celebration of street food at the annual Rollende Keukens festival (p50).

A stall serving Moroccan dishes

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TIPPLES TO ENJOY

Jenever Sip this gin-like spirit at Café ‘t Smalle (p157). Heineken Head to the Heineken Experience (p146). Artisan beers Head to Brouwerij Het IJ (www.brouwerijhetij.nl). New Dutch wines De Kleine Schorre makes white wines (www. dekleineschorre.nl). Curaçao Bols offers tastings (www.bols.com).

Scallops served on a bed of greens at RIJKS

Fine Dining French and Japanese restaurants dominate Amsterdam’s gourmet scene, but the city’s Michelin-starred chefs use local produce: North Sea fish, artisanal cheeses, responsibly raised meat and poultry, and heritage vegetables. Dutch ingredients are celebrated at RIJKS, the Rijksmuseum’s restaurant (p124).

The sleek interior of RIJKS, the restaurant of the Rijksmuseum

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

Street Art What was once an anti-establishment act is now enshrined in two of Amsterdam’s most popular museums. The street art museum at NDSM (p181) houses large-scale murals from artists from around the world, while Banksy is the star of Moco Museum’s collection (p132). Captured on canvas, his iconic Battle of the Beanfield dominates the entrance hall. Despite these innovative museums, the best way to see street art is in the wild. Alltournative Amsterdam’s enthusiastic local guides take graffiti fans on adventurous tours around the city’s kaleidoscopic mural art scene (www.alltournative-amsterdam.com). If just viewing the pieces isn’t enough, pick up a spray can in a graffiti workshop run by a local street artist with Fun Amsterdam (www.funamsterdam.com).

Did You Know? The Diary of Anne Frank is the book most read by young people in Kobra’s native Brazil.

Eduardo Kobra’s Let Me Be Myself on the outside of the street art museum in NDSM

AMSTERDAM FOR

STREET CULTURE

Amsterdam’s culture of tolerance has made the city a vibrant centre for cutting-edge street art and theatre. In the 1960s, open-air performances and graffiti were consigned to the countercultural scene, but in the 21st century, street culture has become part of the modern zeitgeist. Living Statues on the Dam Take a selfie with a stockstill, periwigged personification of Marie Antoinette, Rembrandt, or a panoply of other historical or fictional figures on the city’s bustling central square. The colourful cast of players changes by the hour. Be aware that performers expect to be given a few euros if you take a photograph with them.

Passersby wondering at the discipline of a performer on Dam Square

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STREET ART PIECES

Let Me Be Myself (2016) Eduardo Kobra’s Kaleidoscopic mural of Anne Frank adorns the exterior of NDSM’s street art museum, STRAAT (p181). Art Wall Tuinstraat (2012) The artist Parra has painted a quirky calligraphy on the walls facing a school playground at Tuinstraat 172.

Skateboard Displays at Marnix Bowl Skateboarders and graffiti artists meet at Marnix Bowl, the city’s biggest purpose-built skatepark. Spectators watch in awe as the boarders and BMX-riders pull daredevil stunts on psychedelic ramps.

If Walls Could Speak (2019) A row of nondescript flats on Platanenweg, on the outskirts of Plantage, has been transformed by ten colourful wall paintings.

Marnix Bowl, decorated with colourful graffitti by Lastplak Collective

Street Musicians on Leidseplein Leidseplein is the best place in Amsterdam to watch the city’s street performers. Sitting at alfresco café tables, visitors can kick back to the sounds of street bands playing everything from freestyle jazz to hardcore ragga. A street musician Buskers appreciate a entertaining the public donation if you enjoy with his double bass their performance.

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

P J H Cuypers Petrus J H Cuypers (1827– 1921) placed his stamp on 19th-century Amsterdam with Centraal Station (1889) and the Rijksmuseum (p124). Both red-brick buildings are now sources of pride for Amsterdammers, but when they were built Cuypers’s Neo-Renaissance designs offended some who would have favoured a more austere style.

The exterior of P J H Cuypers’ grand Centraal Station at night

AMSTERDAM’S

ARCHITECTURE From historic churches to modernist complexes, there’s more to Amsterdam’s architecture than its iconic canal houses.

The striking green exterior of the NEMO Science Museum

Renzo Piano Italian architect Renzo Piano (b 1937) transformed the city’s waterfront with the NEMO Science Museum (p99). This dazzling, maritime-inspired leviathan looks very much like the giant hull of a ship, with its prow jutting 30 m (98 ft) over the glittering Oosterdok.

INSIDER TIP

Take a tour Visitors can join an architect-led private tour of new neighbourhoods, such as IJburg, with Architecture Tours (www. architecturetours.nl).

Hendrick de Keyser This 17th-century architect (1565–1621) was appointed as the city’s municipal architect in 1612 and is responsible for the Zuiderkerk (p98) and Westerkerk (p115), as well as Delft’s Town Hall (p208). His work characterizes the transition from the ornamental style of the Dutch Renaissance to the Classicism of the 17th century.

People walking and skating on a frozen canal near Westerkerk

The Amsterdam School These idealistic architects believed that they could transform lives with their designs. They built distinctive estates like the Dageraad complex (1923) and Het Schip (p160). Piet Kramer (1881–1961) and Michel de Klerk (1884–1923) were leading lights of the movement.

Flowers bloom outside Kramer and de Klerk’s Dageraad complex

H P Berlage Hendrik Petrus Berlage (1856–1934) employed clean, functional lines in his new stock exchange – Beurs van Berlage (p82). The structure marked a forward-looking departure from the Revivalist style that dominated the skyline in the late 19th century.

The red-brick exterior of Beurs van Berlage, with its iron and glass roof

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▽ Picnic in the Park

DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

The best-known and most accessible of the city’s parks, Vondelpark (p133) is to Amsterdam what Hyde Park is to London or Central Park to Manhattan. It’s near to the Museumplein, so it’s a perfect place to relax and have a leisurely picnic after an immersive cultural experience.

△ A Winter Stroll Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam (p171), with its vast collection of flora, is ideal for a walk in winter. Visitors can escape inclement weather in the botanical garden’s glass-domed Palm House, built in 1912, and in huge space-age conservatories that recreate tropical, subtropical and desert climates.

AMSTERDAM

OUTDOORS

Although the city is compact and intensely urban, Amsterdammers spend much of their time outdoors. There are tiny green enclaves within its very centre, green expanses not far from the city’s heart and breezy North Sea beaches within easy reach.

◁ Cycle through Woodland

The journey to Amsterdamse Bos (by bus 347 or 357 from Leidseplein) takes about 30 minutes from the city centre. Planned in the 1920s, this 1,035-hectare (2,557-acre) expanse of woodland, streams and lakes is a refuge for many wild birds and animals. The best way to explore the park is to either walk or cycle the 145 km (90 miles) of paths that crisscross this natural oasis.

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▽ Beautiful Bulbfields

From January to May, the bulbfields around Keukenhof erupt in wondrous strips of colour, attracting visitors from around the world (p196). For the best views of the spectacle, hire a bike and ride from Haarlem to Leiden alongside the flower-laden fields.

▷ Peace and Quiet

A tiny green enclave in the heart of the city, Begijnhof was created in 1346 to be a place of religious reflection (p78). No tour groups are allowed in the grounds of the hofjes, making it the perfect place for a break from the bustling streets of Nieuwe Zijde.

◁ Urban Beaches

Beaches may not be the first things that come to mind when you think of Amsterdam, but there are several dotted around the city. The beach on the North shore of Sloterplas lake, 40 minutes away by tram, is best for swimming due to its calm waters. Pllek, however is our pick of the city’s beaches (p181). Located in Noord, it attracts foodies to its restaurant, cinemagoers to its summer screenings and eager sunseekers when the temperature rises. Pllek hosts live music events every week, ranging from laid-back acoustic sessions in their restaurant to full-blown parties that’ll keep you dancing till the early hours.

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

The modern exterior of the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ and BIMHUIS at night

AMSTERDAM

AFTER DARK

The Red Light District may be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Amsterdam at night but clubs have been buzzing here since the 1960s and there’s a thriving LGBT+ scene. For a more laid-back atmosphere, jazz can be heard in huge venues, as well as drifting along the side streets. Club Life Amsterdam’s club scene embraces dance music of every kind, from old-school rock and roll to the latest grime sounds. Paradiso, which opened in the city’s hippy heyday has a hedonistic vibe, with the emphasis on cutting-edge sounds and all-nighters (www.paradiso.nl). Café Prik is one of Amsterdam’s most popular LGBT+ venues, famous for its cocktails and DJ nights (www.prikamsterdam.nl). For a change of pace, have dinner and while away the night playing disco bingo at Pacific (www.pacificamsterdam.nl).

Revellers enjoying a night out at Jimmy Woo

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Amsterdam Live There are plenty of opportunities to hear live music in Amsterdam, from intimate venues to extravagant concert halls. The opulent Concertgebouw has been hosting performances since 1888 and boasts unparalleled acoustics (p132). Meanwhile, modern Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ (p170) has spaces for both large and small audiences. The BIMHUIS, which shares the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ’s stunning building, attracts the world’s biggest names in jazz. If you prefer to see undiscovered acts, head to Café Alto, near the Leidseplein (www.jazz-cafealto.nl). Up-andcoming jazz and blues artists perform here every night from 9pm.

DRINK Nachtcafés stay open until 4 or 5am. Bloemenbar

Comfy sofas and soft music make Bloemenbar a great place to chill.  E6 ⌂ Handboogstraat 15 ∑ bloemenbar.nl

Café P96

This café’s terrace overlooks the Westerkerk.  D3 ⌂ Prinsengracht 96

Nachtcafé de Biecht This bruin café plays the sounds of the 70s and 80s.

Dancing to a live music performance at BIMHUIS

 G7 ⌂ Kerkstraat 346

INSIDER TIP

Free to Enter The Amsterdam Nightlife Ticket offers free admission to more than 20 clubs for €10 (www.amsterdam nightlifeticket.com).

The plain exterior of Melkweg belying its vibrant events

Cultural Complexes Since the 1970s, Melkweg – a versatile entertainment venue – has staged alternative performances, including world music, experimental theatre and contemporary dance. Famed for its impromptu raves in the 1980s, Westergasfabriek – the former gasworks – is now a well-organized creative hub with a diverse programme of events (www.westergasfabriek.nl). Tolhuistuin also occupies a repurposed building – Shell’s former canteen (www. tolhuistuin.nl). It’s a laid-back, intimate venue with theatres and exhibition spaces.

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DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

Take a Ferry Across the IJ Rather than splurging on a canalboat cruise through the city centre, ride the free ferry across the IJ instead. Board the blue-and-white ferry bound for NDSM from Centraal Station and enjoy the amazing views of A’DAM Toren and EYE, giving you an insight into the modern face of Amsterdam.

Noord’s A’DAM Toren and EYE as seen from the River IJ

AMSTERDAM ON A

SHOESTRING

Although Amsterdam can be an expensive city, savvy visitors can find plenty of things to see and do free of charge or at a fraction of the price.

Performances in the Park In summer, the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre hosts free contemporary and modern dance, drama, classical, pop and jazz concerts, as well as stand-up comedy (p133). Many performances are in English.

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People picnicking near the monument in Sarphatipark

Food stalls can be found at Albert Cuypmarkt.

Have a Picnic A ten-minute walk from Museumplein, Albert Cuypmarkt (p145) offers a bewildering choice of ready-made snacks and other picnic ingredients. From freshly baked bread and organic cheeses to fresh fruit, cured herring and pastries, you’ll find the perfect picnic elements at these stalls. Take your purchases to the nearby Sarphatipark and while away the afternoon.

Lunchtime Sounds The Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ (p170) serves up a free midday con-cert once a month, while the Concertgebouw (p132) hosts one every Wednesday. Not constrained to lunchtime? The BIMHUIS offers at least one free evening concert, workshop or jam session every week.

An audience watching an orchestra at the Concertgebouw

Art on the Cheap No tickets are needed to enjoy works by Rembrandt and other masters in the Amsterdam Gallery at the Amsterdam Museum (p74). As well as a collection of 17th-century paintings of city militiamen and prominent citizens, the world’s only free “museum street” also displays 21st-century group portraits. A band performing at the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre

Barbara Broekman’s carpet in the Amsterdam Gallery

DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

AMSTERDAM FOR

CYCLING

Amsterdam’s love affair with the bicycle started in the 1960s, when countercultural groups started promoting bikes as an alternative to the cars that threatened to destroy the city’s character. Dedicated cycle lanes and pancake-flat terrain make the city bike-friendly for visitors and locals.

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RULES OF THE ROAD

Stay Right Always use the bicycle lane on the right-hand side of the road. Stick to the Road Don’t ride on footpaths or pavements.

Kids on Wheels Families with tots need a bakfiets – the ultra-sensible Dutch two-wheeled toddler transporter that lets parents carry younger children in a child-safe box at the front of the bike. Escape the busy cyclelanes of the crowded centre in the leafy Amsterdamse Bos, with its 145 km (90 miles) of footpaths, cycleways and picnic spots (p38). Alternatively, see the city with We Bike Amsterdam, which runs child-friendly tours on two wheels (www.webikeamsterdam.com).

Be Aware Be careful of other road users. Lock It Up Whenever possible, lock your bike up at an official city cycle rack. Safety First Always wear a helmet and high-visibility vest, which are provided by bike rental companies.

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A lady cycling through a park, towing her child in a trailer

Bicycles Made for Two Couples can rent tandem bicycles for romantic rides along Amsterdam’s canal rings or the banks of the Amstel. But these routes can get busy with tourists and commuters. For a little peace and quiet, hop on a ferry across the IJ to explore the pretty villages on the outskirts of Noord, such as Ransdorp and Nieuwendam. You can rent a bicycle for two from Black Bikes (www.black-bikes.com).

Couple cycling on a tandem bike down an urban street

WHITE BIKES Despite the support of Beatle John Lennon and his partner Yoko Ono, the idealistic Witte Fietsenplan (“white bike plan”) was short-lived. The anarchohippy Provo group wanted to make thousands of white-painted bikes freely available to Amsterdammers, but the city council refused to fund the project and most of the first 50 “white bikes” vanished. Despite this, the scheme boosted support for cycling in Amsterdam and the city now has dozens of bike rental companies – although it still has no city-wide, nonprofit bike-share system.

Going Electric Cyclists who want to go further without running out of energy can rent ecofriendly bikes with batterypowered electric motors. Many hotels, cafés and restaurants have charging points so cyclists can top up their batteries while taking a break. Rent an electric bike from Black Bikes.

Pausing with an electric bike

Did You Know? You can download recommended cycling routes at www. iamsterdam.com.

Taking a break from cycling through the wild ZuidKennemerland National Park

Off-Road Cycling Most cycle routes in Amsterdam are on the flat. Bikers who want to pick up the pace can rent BMX bikes to burn round rugged trails on the outskirts of Amsterdamse Bos. For a real breath of fresh air, take the train to Haarlem, rent a bike at the station, then dive into the dunes and woodlands of the ZuidKennemerland National Park (www. rentabikehaarlem.nl).

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▽ The Harbour View

DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

The NEMO Science Museum’s rooftop terrace is the ideal vantage point for early morning shots of the Oosterdok, boats at anchor in Het Scheepvaartmuseum and the waterfront (p99).

△ The Most Photogenic Bridges

It’s a tough call deciding which of Amsterdam’s canal bridges is the most picturesque. Fortunately, Blauwbrug (p145) and Magere Brug (p149) are close together so you can easily take a picture of both. Illuminated after nightfall, Magere Brug is the perfect subject for an after-dark shot.

AMSTERDAM FOR

PHOTOGRAPHERS As one of the world’s most photogenic cities, there are iconic shots around every corner in Amsterdam. Here we reveal the wheres and whens to help you snap the perfect picture of this city.

△ The Classic Canal Image

Shoot the perfect image of the 17th-century buildings that line Amsterdam’s canals from the west side of Herengracht, close to the corner of Leidsestraat. Early evening light is best.

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▽ The Colourful Bulbfields

Tulips, daffodils and crocuses bloom for just a few weeks in spring and early summer in Zuid-Holland’s bulbfields (p196). This is also when the Keukenhof gardens are at their best. Visit the fields or gardens in March or April for perfect swathes of colour.

▷ The Prettiest Houses

The almshouses surrounding the Begijnhof’s inner courtyard are arguably the most charming buildings in Amsterdam (p78). Each of the 47 tall townhouses is distinct, making the photographic opportunities here endless. Plan to visit around midday for the best light. Note that visitors are restricted to the space around the church; the courtyard is only accessible to the inhabitants of these houses.

▽ The Artist’s Inspiration

Montelbaanstoren, on the north side of Oudeschans, was one of Rembrandt’s favourite subjects (p98). It’s not difficult to see why, as this striking tower dominates the wide Oudeschans canal. Snap Montelbaanstoren in the morning, from midway across Keizersbrug, or from the corner of Oudeschans and Oostersekade.

△ The Sunset Panorama

Take the high-speed elevator to A‘DAM Toren’s Lookout for the ultimate sunset shot over the city skyline (p180). The reflective water of the IJ makes the perfect foreground for a picture of the historic canal rings.

DISCOVER Amsterdam Your Way

Canal Cruises Most rondvaartboten (cruise boats) offer a multilingual commentary on the history of the city. They also have glass roofs that can be opened in fine weather. To see the city’s highlights by day, board a Stromma cruise from one of many locations in the city centre, including Prins Hendrikkade, opposite Centraal Station, and Damrak (www.stromma.nl). Feeling romantic? Indulge in one of the sumptuous fine dining cruises run by Amsterdam Jewel Cruises (www.amsterdam jewelcruises.com).

A rondvaartboot, with a classy dinner service (inset), passing under a bridge

AMSTERDAM

ON THE WATER

Set on the point where the Amstel river flows into the IJ, and characterized by its canal rings, water is everywhere you turn in this city. From do-ityourself pedalboats to fabulous dinner cruises, there are many ways to enjoy Amsterdam’s waterways, nearby lakes and the North Sea. Pedalboats To navigate Amsterdam’s canals at your own pace, rent a two- or four-seater “canal bike”. As well as being ecofriendly, pedalboats can help to burn off any excess energy. In summer, this is a great way for everyone, especially families, to discover waterways that the big canal cruisers can’t reach. Stromma hires out pedalboats by the hour and pick-up points are found at the tourist hot spots: Rijksmuseum, Westerkerk, Leidseplein and Keizersgracht.

A family enjoying a fourseater pedalboat on Amsterdam’s canal ring

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2018 Amsterdam’s canals last froze over in this year.

A hop-on, hop-off boat leaving from Centraal Station

Hop-on, Hop-off Create your own, 24-hour personalized canal tour using Stromma’s hop-on, hop-off boats. Chugging around the city’s inner waterways, you can disembark at whichever keynote sights you wish to explore.

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HISTORIC VESSELS

Amsterdam Visitors can climb aboard this full-scale replica of a Dutch East Indiaman at Het Scheepvaartmuseum (p166). Zuiderzee The last original, two-masted, schoonerrigged barge in the Netherlands is available for private charter for 20 to 34 people (p191). Dinner, drinks and snacks are provided. Tugboats These veteran vessels, now moored at the Maritiem Museum Rotterdam (p212), were once used in the city’s historic harbour.

Traditional sailing boats moored at a dock in the city

Sailing Trips Take a sunset cruise or spend the day on the calm waters of the Markermeer (p191) aboard Zuiderzee – a traditional tjalk sailing barge (www.zuiderzee.eu). More adventurous sailors can venture into the IJsselmeer or Waddenzee on Aaltje Engelina – a 22-m (72-ft) gaff-rigged stevenaak (www.aaltjeengelina.nl).

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DISCOVER A Year in Amsterdam

A YEAR IN

AMSTERDAM Amsterdam’s springtime blooms are world-famous, but this is a vibrant city all year round. With riotous summer festivals, crisp autumn walks along the canals and festive winter celebrations, there’s really no bad time to visit.

Spring In late March, daffodils and crocuses seem to blossom overnight all over the city. Flower-lovers descend on Amsterdam, using it as a base for day trips to the bulbfields (p196). In April, it’s the turn of tulips, with rare and colourful flowers brightening Amsterdam’s parks and museums. The season ends with a bang on Koningsdag on 27 April, when the city becomes one big street – and boat – party on King Willem-Alexander’s birthday. 1. Swathes of tulips in Keukenhof in the bulbfields

Summer Starting with the three-week-long Holland Festival, summer is full of cultural events. Amsterdam Roots Festival celebrates world music, dance, film and drama in June; Pride takes over

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ELFSTEDENTOCHT Translated as “11 cities tour”, the Elfsteden­ tocht is a 217­km (135­ mile) ice skating race. It is only held when the Friesland province’s canals, rivers and lakes are covered in more than 15 cm (6 inches) of ice. Due to climate change, there hasn’t been an Elfstedentocht since 1997.

the ciy in August; and concerts, comedy and theatre are staged in Vondelpark all summer long. This is the best time for peoplewatching in one of Amsterdam’s street-side cafés and bars. 2. Metallic-clad revellers celebrating Pride

Autumn Performing arts continue to take centre stage with the Amsterdam Fringe Festival in September – a month of music, dance, opera and drama. As the days become shorter and crisper, locals strike out on brisk walks along the city’s stately canals, and catch up in cosy bruin cafés. 3. A cosy bruin café in Jordaan

Winter Santa Claus’s arrival by boat starts the Sinterklaas Parade and marks the beginning of the festive season. Visitors and residents alike throng the city centre to browse market stalls, enjoy the seasonal illuminations and watch Christmas trees being hawked from barges on the main canals. Barrows tantalize passers-by with the smell of freshly fried oliebollen (beignets) and appelflappen (apple fritters). About twice a decade, the winter temperatures drop so low that the canals freeze over and large crowds turn out to skate under the stars. 4. Ice skating on a frozen canal, and (inset) the Sinterklaas Parade

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SPECTATOR SPORTS

Show-jumping International horse riding competitions take place at the end of January for Jumping Amsterdam. Cycling In September, the Dam tot Dam Fiets Classic circuit begins and ends at Dam Square. Korfbal A cross between netball and basketball. Blauw Wit is the club to watch. Running Popular running events include the Dam tot Damloop and Amsterdam Marathon. Ice Hockey The city supports the Amstel Tigers.

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DISCOVER A Brief History

A BRIEF

1

HISTORY

Upstart Amsterdam grew quickly from its 13th-century roots in uninhabited marshland. By the 17th century it was one of Europe’s wealthiest cities, through the exploitation of the Netherlands’ colonies. Although no longer an imperial hub, the city is still a global financial capital and a place where freedom reigns. Amstelledamme Becomes Amsterdam Work began in 1264 on the dam of the Amstel river which gave the settlement its name: Amstelledamme. By the 14th century, the town was known as Amsterdam and was prosperous enough to build the imposing Oude Kerk (p90). Amsterdam’s second important place of worship – the Nieuwe Kerk (p72) – was built in the late 14th century. But the wooden church, along with most of the town, was destroyed by the second of two great fires that swept Amsterdam in 1421 and 1452. Further conflagrations ravaged the town in the early 16th century and in 1521, the city council banned wooden buildings to prevent further disasters.

1 Map showing Amsterdam in 1582. 2 15th-century houses in the Begijnhof. 3 Depiction of the Nieuwe Kerk on fire by Egbert Lievensz van der Poel (1645). 4 Portrait ofPrince William of Orange.

Timeline of events 1264 Work begins on the first dam on River Amstel.

1306 Oude Kerk consecrated.

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1452

1477

Second fire destroys much of the city, including the wooden Nieuwe Kerk.

Amsterdam becomes part of the Holy Roman Empire under the Habsburgs.

1522 Habsburg Emperor Charles V attempts to crush the Reformation in the Netherlands.

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Towards Independence Amsterdam became part of the Holy Roman Empire via a dynastic marriage in 1477, but the relationship didn’t remain peaceful for long. By 1500, the Protestant Reformation swept through Europe and, between 1522 and 1550, some 30,000 Dutch Protestants were killed under Philip II of Spain. In 1568, Prince William of Orange or William the Silent – stadhouder (governor) of the provinces of Holland, Zeeland and Utrecht – led the Protestants in the Dutch Revolt (also known as the Eighty Years’ War). At first, pragmatic Amsterdam sided with the Spanish, but in 1578 the city switched its allegiance to the rebels in an event known as the Alteration. Amsterdam became the fiercely Protestant capital of an infant Dutch Republic in 1581. In the following years, the Republic suffered a series of disasters, including the siege of Maastricht. Having grown unpopular, William of Orange was assassinated by one of Philip II’s supporters in 1584 (p208). William’s sons, Maurice and Frederick Henry, continued his cause. After 80 years of struggle, it was only under Frederick Henry’s son William II, Prince of Orange, that independence was granted to the Netherlands in 1648.

1568

1578

War breaks out after the Spanish Duke of Alva executes the Protestant Dukes of Egmont and Hoorn.

Amsterdam shifts allegiance to the Protestant rebels.

1543 Charles V unifies the Low Countries – the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg.

Did You Know? Only 400 of Maastricht’s population of 30,000 survived the Spanish siege of 1579.

1581 Amsterdam becomes the capital of the Dutch Republic.

1584 Prince William of Orange assassinated in Delft.

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DISCOVER A Brief History

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Boom Times Free from the Habsburgs, the Dutch revelled in their new-found independence. The Dutch merchant fleet developed a network of trade routes that stretched around the globe, resulting in a new middle class. This group grew resentful of the ruling House of Orange. In 1795 the Patriots – a radical political faction inspired by the Enlightenment – formed the Batavian Republic, with French support. In 1808, Dutch confidence in the French evaporated when Napoleon abolished this republic and installed his brother Louis as king. At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, William I, Prince of Orange, was installed on the throne.

TRADING EMPIRE The Dutch merchant fleet made Amsterdam wealthy. The Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602, brought spices from Indonesia and India to Europe, while the Dutch West India Company, established in 1621, had a monopoly over the Americas, including the slave trade. Both companies were ruthless in their exploitation of local resources and peoples.

Colonialism Trade often anticipated colonial occupation and the Netherlands used its merchant fleets to build a huge empire. By the 1890s, most of the Netherlands’ colonies and trade monopolies had been commandeered by the British. But, a number of coastal countries remained under Dutch control, including Suriname and the islands that would become Indonesia, which the Dutch coveted most on account of its raw materials.

Timeline of events 1602

1648

1652–54

Amsterdam merchants form the United East India Company to trade with Asia.

Peace of Munster ends war with Spain.

Commercial rivalry between England and the Netherlands leads to First AngloDutch War.

1626 West India Company acquires Manhattan and founds New Amsterdam.

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1666–67 The Netherlands victorious in Second Anglo-Dutch War.

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War and Occupation The Netherlands hoped to remain neutral during World War II, as it had in World War I, but this wish was dashed when Germany invaded in May 1940. During the occupation, which lasted until May 1945, Jews were deported to concentration camps and ges­ tures of resistance, such as the 1941 dockers’ strike, were crushed. During World War II, the Japanese occupied Indonesia. After their defeat, the Dutch attempted to reimpose colonial rule. The bloody war that followed ended in 1949 with Indonesian independence. Suriname gained autonomy in 1975. Amsterdam Today In 1952, Amsterdam joined the European Coal and Steel Community, which would eventually become the European Union. Fast motorways and the Amsterdam­Rhine canal linked it to its neighbours, which encouraged trade and attracted global companies. As a result, workers from all over the world flocked to the city, causing a housing crisis. Urban rejuvenation programmes eased Amsterdam’s overcrowding problem, however, today the city is suffering from over­tourism.

1 Engraving of the West India Company’s building. 2 Amsterdam is a replica of a 18th-century ship. 3 The Nationaal Monument in Dam Square. 4 A barge motors on the Amsterdam–Rhine canal.

Did You Know? The city’s population reached a peak of 869,000 in the 1960s, its highest to date.

1919

1678 Franco-Dutch War ends with the Treaty of Nijmegen, leaving the Netherlands undefeated.

1795– 1813 The Netherlands under French control.

Women given right to vote.

1815

William I crowned first king of the Netherlands.

1940 Germany invades the Netherlands.

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Two women strolling along Egelantiersgracht

A CANAL WALK With the increase in wealth and civic pride in Amsterdam during the city’s 17th-century prosperity, an ambitious plan was formed to build a splendid ring of canals round the city. Conceived in 1609, and added to in 1664 by Daniel Stalpaert, the scheme grew to encompass wide canals lined with opulent townhouses in a variety of architectural styles. These houses reflect the wealth of the inflating merchant class who prospered from the spoils of the United East India Company and West India Company at that time. The opulent façades hide the fact that exploitation and slavery was at the core of the economy. A walk along the canals takes in these merchants’ mansions, as well as unbelievably narrow houses and wonderful examples of the Amsterdam School of architecture. The diverse façades, reflected in the glass-like canals, have come to represent the city for people around the world. The following pages guide you along the Singel, Keizersgracht, Herengracht, Reguliersgracht and Prinsengracht canals. Listen to the sounds of the waterways and feel their bustling energy as you explore the arteries of this water-fuelled city. 57

DISCOVER A Canal Walk

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Did You Know? The Yab Yum brothel once made €40,000 in one night.

A CANAL WALK

DAM SQUARE TO KEIZERSGRACHT Distance 850 m (0.5 miles) Nearest tram Dam Time 10 minutes

The walk along Amsterdam’s finest canals begins in Dam Square. Leave the square by walking down Paleisstraatpast, passing the Koninklijk Paleis (p79). Cross Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and Spuistraat, and turn left to stroll along the left bank of Singel.

This canal served as a moat around the city until 1585, when Amsterdam expanded. The Singel is the nexus of the city’s second-largest Red Light District. As you walk along, you’ll pass both opulent mansions and former brothels, including the infamous Yab Yum.

A L van Gendt designed this massive stone office block at No 239 Singel for trader Julius Carle Bunge. Known as the Bungehuis, it was completed in 1934. It is now a luxury hotel.

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The double-fronted 17th-century canal house at No 265 Singel has been rebuilt several times since it was first constructed.

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After passing the contrasting 18th-century façades of Nos 317 and 319 Singel, turn right onto Oude Spiegelstraat to cross Herengracht. Walk along Wolvenstraat until you reach Keizersgracht. Turn the page to continue your stroll along the waterways.

The step gable at No 279 Singel dates from the 19th century. Most of the houses along this canal were built between 1600 and 1665.

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These houses, Nos 289–293, stand on an alley once called Schoorsteenvegersteeg (chimney sweeps’ lane), which was home to many immigrant chimney sweeps in the 19th century.

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3 The Singel is home to the Bloemenmarkt (p146) which floats on the water.

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2 A vibrant orange boat floats down the Singel, passing the diverse façades that line this canal.

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1 The imposing Bungehuis – now a luxury hotel – is located at No 239 Singel.

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Yab Yum brothel, which was exclusive, occupied the 17th-century canal house at No 295 Singel.

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A CANAL WALK

KEIZERSGRACHT TO HERENGRACHT Distance 700 m (765 yards) Nearest tram Spui Time 10 minutes

Keizersgracht is known as “the emperor’s canal” and with good reason. A stroll along this canal takes in highly decorated façades, including No 319, which is covered with scrolls, vases and garlands.

Jacob de Wit – the artist – bought Nos 383 and 385 Keizersgracht, living in No 385 until his death in 1754.

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After marvelling at the tiny 345a Keizersgracht, cross Huidenstraat to reach the magnificent section of the canal illustrated below. Turn left on to Leidsestraat to head along the Leidsegracht, which marks the end of

De Vergulde Ster (gilded star), at No 387 Keizersgracht, was built in 1668 by the municipal stonemasons’ yard. It has an elongated neck gable and narrow windows.

No 399 Keizersgracht dates from 1665, but the façade was rebuilt in the 18th century. Its achterhuis (back annexe) has been perfectly preserved.

3 A rondvaartboot passes under the bridge on Keizersgracht that crosses over the Leidsegracht canal.

Daniel Stalpaert’s city expansion plan of 1664. It has a mixture of fine 17th- and 18th-century canal houses. Walk to Koningsplein, then take the left bank of the Herengracht. On the next page, the stroll will continue on Herengracht.

Nos 401 and 399 Keizersgracht house a museum of photography known as Huis Marseille.

The plain, spout-gabled building at No 403 Keizersgracht was originally a warehouse – a rarity in this predominantly residential area.

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Built in 1671 on a triangular piece of land, No 409 Keizersgracht contains a highly decorated wooden ceiling.

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A CANAL WALK

HERENGRACHT TO REGULIERSGRACHT Distance 550 m (600 yards) Nearest tram Koningsplein Time 5 minutes

A walk eastwards along Herengracht towards Thorbeckeplein winds past grand, widefronted mansions. The most prestigious plots on the canal are known as the Golden Bend (p116), which is illustrated below. Admire this most picturesque section of the

The house at No 491 Herengracht was built in 1671. The façade, rebuilt in the 18th century, is decorated with scrolls, vases and coats of arms.

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The 17th-century house at No 493 was given a Louis XV-style façade in 1767 by Anthony van Hemert.

canal, while listening to the rondvaarten motoring past, creating lapping waves. After crossing Vijzelstraat, you’ll pass the house where Peter the Great stayed in 1716 and the asymmetrical building at Nos 533–7. Look out for the small houses

The façade of No 495 Herengracht was rebuilt and a balcony added by Jean Coulon in 1739 for burgomaster and art expert Jan Six.

The Kattenkabinet at No 497 Herengracht was created by financier B Meijer in 1984. It is devoted to exhibits featuring the cat in art.

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at the corner of Herengracht and Thorbeckeplein which contrast with the grand neighbouring buildings. At Thorbeckeplein, take the bridge to the right, which marks the beginning of Reguliersgracht. Follow the left bank.

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No 507 Herengracht was home of mayor Jacob Boreel. His house was looted during riots in 1696 in retaliation for the burial tax he introduced to the city.

No 509 Herengracht looks very different to its neighbours because of its Art Deco balconies and bold threedimensional design.

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A CANAL WALK

REGULIERSGRACHT TO THE AMSTEL

Distance 750 m (820 yards) Nearest tram Rembrandtplein Time 10 minutes

The final part of the walk takes you along Reguliersgracht – one of the city’s most famous canals. Before you begin, pause where the canal crosses Herengracht to see ten bridges in total, including the one that you’re standing on.

7 Arched stone bridges cross the Reguliersgracht.

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Continue past the buildings shown below and then cross Keizersgracht. You’ll pass Nos 57, 59 and 63 Reguliersgracht, which have ornate stone, brick and woodwork façades. Turn left by the church and take the left bank of Prinsengracht. You should be ready

The spout-gabled 16th-century warehouses at Nos 11 and 13 Reguliersgracht are called the Sun and the Moon.

Three houses boasting typical neck gables, at Nos 17, 19 and 21 Reguliersgracht, are now much soughtafter addresses.

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2 The seven bridges that cross Reguliersgracht make a great picture.

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for a break. Stop for lunch at NeL in Amstelkerk (p145) or a refreshing beverage at Café Marcella, at No 1047a Prinsengracht, which is a typical local bar with outside seating in the summer. Refreshed, follow the Prinsengracht to the Amstel river.

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The façades of Nos 37 and 39 Reguliersgracht lean towards the water, showing the danger caused by subsidence when building on marshland.

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Tulips in Keukenhof gardens

EXPERIENCE

Nieuwe Zijde ............................................68 Oude Zijde .................................................86 Central Canal Ring ............................. 106 Museum Quarter .................................120 Eastern Canal Ring .............................138 Jordaan and the Western Islands .................................... 152 Plantage ..................................................... 162 Noord ...........................................................176 Beyond Amsterdam ...........................184

Munttoren and a canal-side restaurant at dusk

NIEUWE ZIJDE The western side of medieval Amsterdam was known as the Nieuwe Zijde (New Side). Together with the Oude Zijde it formed the heart of the early maritime settlement. As Amsterdam grew, it expanded eastwards, leaving large sections of the Nieuwe Zijde neglected and in decline. With its many wooden houses, the city was prone to fires and in 1452 much of the area was burned down. Surprisingly, this event reinvigorated the Nieuwe Zijde. During rebuilding, a broad moat, the Singel, was cut, attracting the nouveaux riches to the area. Warehouses, rich merchants’ homes and fine quays sprang up where once there was poverty. The area was also rejuvenated during this period by the Miracle of Amsterdam. At a house on Kalverstraat in 1345, a dying man regurgitated the Eucharist. Due to liturgical reasons, the sacramental bread was thrown onto a fire, but it would not burn and was retrieved from the ashes the following day. This event transformed the city into a place of pilgrimage and a chapel was built on the site, bringing commerce to the Nieuwe Zijde as worshippers passed through. 69

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NIEUWE KERK EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

 F4 ⌂ Dam Square v 2, 4, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24 # 10am–5pm daily (during exhibitions only, check website) ∑ nieuwekerk.nl

The medieval “New Church” is both stately and surprising, hosting not only royal coronations but also impressive exhibitions on inspiring individuals, different cultures, contemporary art and photography. Dating from the 14th century, Amsterdam’s second parish church was built as the population outgrew the Oude Kerk (p90). During its turbulent history, the church was destroyed several times by fire, rebuilt and then stripped of its finery after the Alteration (p53). It reached its present size in the 1650s. Highlights of the interior include the Great Organ (1645), which is adorned with marbled-wood cherubs and has shutters painted by Jacob van Campen, Rombout Verhulst’s tomb of Michiel de Ruyter (1607–76) – the heroic admiral who died in battle against the French at Messina – and the carved pulpit (1664). Since 1814, all the Dutch monarchs have been crowned here. Dominating Dam Square, the church, with its huge stained-glass windows

Carved pulpit

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Great Organ

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Baptistry

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Must See 1578

1814

Church plundered following the Alteration, when it became Protestant

▼ First royal investiture in Nieuwe Kerk of William I

Timeline

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1380

1645

Estimated date of the earliest church on this site. The original building was destroyed in 1421

▲ Fire destroys all but the façade and walls, and restoration work begins soon after

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Tomb of Michiel de Ruyter

Apse

Masons’ Chapel

The flamboyant pulpit, which took Dutch sculptor Albert Vinckenbrinck 15 years to carve

Stained-glass windows

Did You Know? Orphans’ Gallery

Main entrance

The Nieuwe Kerk’s magnificent interior

Joost van den Vondel (p133) was buried here in an unmarked grave.

Colourful stained-glass window depicting Prince William of Orange (p53) surrounded by his courtiers

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EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

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AMSTERDAM MUSEUM  E5 ⌂ Kalverstraat 92, St Luciensteeg 27 v 2, 4, 11, 12, 14, 24 q Rokin # 10am–5pm daily ∑ amsterdam museum.nl

The city’s historical museum explores Amsterdam’s dramatic evolution from marshland to modern times, as well as the city’s future. The setting tells a story just as varied as the one told by the main collection. The red-brick building began life as the Convent of St Lucien, before it was turned into a civic orphanage two years after the Alteration (p53). The Collection At the museum’s heart is the Amsterdam DNA exhibition, which offers a multimedia introduction to the development of Amsterdam, from its humble origins as a small fishing village at the mouth of the Amstel in the Middle Ages to today’s cosmopolitan city. Visitors can then explore the other rooms, where aspects of Amsterdam’s history are dealt with in more detail, including the city’s golden age in the 17th century. The Amsterdam Gallery also covers both the past and the present with exhibits ranging from 16th-century portraits to modern-day graffiti. Meanwhile, the Regents’ Chamber and The Little Orphanage unlock the building’s history.

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An interior courtyard of the red-brick Amsterdam Museum

Did You Know? Boys and girls played in separate courtyards when the building was an orphanage.

Gallery Rooms

Must See The globe, crafted by Willem Blaeu (cartographer of the Dutch East India Company), on display in Amsterdam DNA to emphasize the city’s history of overseas trade and colonial expansion

Amsterdam DNA This one-hour, historical tour of the city explores Amsterdam’s main cultural characteristics, including the spirit of enterprise, freedom of thought, civic virtue and creativity. Touch-sensitive screens and archival film footage are used to great effect.

Amsterdam Gallery Leading from Begijnensteeg to the museum, this is the world’s only “museum street” and it does not have an admission charge. Don’t miss Albert Jansz Vinckenbrinck’s wooden statue of David, Goliath and His Shield-Bearer (1648–50).

Regents’ Chamber Built in 1634, this room was the meeting place of the orphanage’s directors (regents). Its fine ceiling, added in 1656, shows the orphans receiving charity. Portraits of the regents hang on the walls. The long table and cabinets are 17th century.

The Little Orphanage

Exhibits from the 20th century on display in Amsterdam DNA

This exhibition gives children and parents the opportunity to experience life in a 17th-century orphanage. Along with authentically arranged classrooms, kitchens and animal sheds are talking exhibits and pop-up characters who tell visitors about their dayto-day lives.

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EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

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MUSEUM ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER  G4 ⌂ Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38 v 4, 14, 24 # 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 1–6pm Sun and public hols ¢ 27 Apr ∑ opsolder.nl

Tucked away on the edge of the Red Light District is a restored 17th-century canal house, with two smaller houses to the rear. The upper storeys conceal a hidden Catholic church known as Our Lord in the Attic (Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder).

Simple spout gable on the first house

Our Lord in the Attic After the Alteration (p53), when Amsterdam officially became Protestant, many hidden churches were built throughout the city. Bourgeois merchant Jan Hartman added this chapel to his house in 1663. The building became a museum in 1888, and displays fine church silver, religious arti­ facts and paintings. Entry to the museum is through the house on the other side of the alley. An underground passage connects the two buildings. This house also contains an exhibition space, a café and a shop.

Day room

Entry to Hartman’s house is through the building on the right

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A chaplain’s tiny box bedroom is hidden off a bend in the stairs.

The three houses that make up the Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder

Must See Wooden viewing gallery of the church Sacristy, where vestments were kept

Did You Know? The church is painted caput mortuum , or “dead head” pink.

Our Lord in the Attic served the Catholic community until Sint Nicolaasbasiliek (p82) was finished in 1887.

This tiny wooden confessional is on the landing behind the church.

The 17th-century kitchen was originally part of the priest’s living quarters. There was a resident chaplain in the church from 1663.

The reception hall

1 Restored to its former opulence, the reception hall is furnished in the Dutch Classical style of the 17th century.

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2 Unlike the rest of the house, the church of Our Lord in the Attic has been restored to its 19th-century appearance, when it was last used by worshippers. 3 The day room is where 17th-century residents would have spent the day.

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4

BEGIJNHOF

No 19 has a plaque depicting the exodus of the Jews from Egypt.

EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

 E5 ⌂ Spui (entrance at Gedempte Begijnensloot) v 2, 4, 11, 12, 14, 24 # Gates: 9am–5pm daily

With its beautiful rows of houses overlooking a well-kept green, the Begijnhof is the perfect place for some respite from the frenetic energy of the Nieuwe Zijde. The Begijnhof was originally built in 1346 as a sanctuary for the Begijntjes, a lay Catholic sisterhood who lived like nuns, although they took no monastic vows. In return for lodgings within the complex, these worthy women undertook to educate the poor and care for the city’s sick. Nothing survives of the earliest dwellings, but the Begijnhof still retains a sanctified atmosphere. No groups are allowed and visitors should respect the residents’ privacy. Engelse Kerk Het Houten Huis

The Begijnhof Chapel, a clandestine church (Nos 29–30), was completed in 1680.

Main entrance from Gedempte Begijnensloot

Spui entrance

Did You Know? The houses in the Begijnhof are still occupied by single women. A statue of Jesus stands in the middle of Begijnhof’s green

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Must See

The houses in the Begijnhof, encircling the green

The vast marble-floored Burgerzaal in the Koninklijk Paleis

Wooden gate

PICTURE PERFECT

Het Houten Huis Behind Het Houten Huis (No 34) – one of the oldest houses in Amsterdam – is a white wall adorned with biblical plaques. Capture the wooden-fronted house – one of only two left in the city – and the plaques in one frame for the perfect shot.

The Engelse Kerk’s stark interior reflects its Presbyterian past

EXPERIENCE MORE 5"'= Koninklijk Paleis  F4 ⌂ Dam Square v 2, 4, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24 # Check website for details ∑ paleisamsterdam.nl

The Koninklijk Paleis, still used by the king for official events, was built as the Stadhuis (town hall). Work began in 1648, after the end of the Eighty Years’ War with Spain (p53). Dominating its surroundings, the Classically inspired design by Jacob van Campen (1595– 1657) reflects the city’s mood of confidence after the Dutch victory. Civic pride is also shown in the mythological sculptures by Artus Quellien (1609–68), which decorate the pediments, and in the carrillon by François Hemony (1609– 67). The full magnificence is best seen in the Burgerzaal (citizens’ hall). Based on the

assembly halls of ancient Rome, this 30-m- (95-ft-) high room boasts a marble floor inlaid with a celestial map flanked by the two terrestrial hemispheres.

STAY Hotel The Exchange Centrally located, this quirky hotel has rooms designed by graduates of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute.  F4 ⌂ Damrak 50 ∑ hotelthe exchange.com ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

6"' Allard Pierson Museum  F6 ⌂ Oude Turfmarkt 127 v 4, 14, 24 q Rokin # 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ allardpiersonmuseum.nl

Amsterdam’s only specialist archaeological collection is named after Allard Pierson (1831–96), a humanist and scholar. Part of the University of Amsterdam and housed in a former bank, this museum is not just a dusty collection of ancient relics. Although small, it interestingly links vanished civilizations with the modern world through its collection of thousands of objects from the ancient worlds of Greece, Rome, Egypt and beyond. Look out for a case of rather gruesome Egyptian mummy remains and a film showing the process of mummification, a computer that enables you to write your name in hiero-glyphics, a jointed Greek doll from 300 BC and some fine Roman jewellery. The Greek pottery collection has examples of black-figure and red-figure pottery produced in the 5th and 6th centuries BC. The museum also hosts challenging themed exhibitions that shed new light on European history. The museum is in the process of refurbishment, creating additional exhibition space to display highlights from Amsterdam University’s special collections.

7'= Munttoren  F6 ⌂ Muntplein v 4, 14, 24 q Rokin # Shop: Apr–Oct: 9:30am–9pm daily; Nov–Mar till 6pm

The polygonal base of the Munttoren (mint tower) was part of the Regulierspoort – the southern gateway in Amsterdam’s medieval city wall. The gate was destroyed 80

by fire in 1618, but the base survived. In the following year, Hendrick de Keyser (p37) added the clock tower (closed to the public), capped with a steeple and openwork orb. The carillon was designed by François Hemony in 1699, and rings every 15 minutes. The tower acquired its name in 1673, during the French occupation, when the former city mint was temporarily housed here. The ground floor is home to a shop that sells delftware still made by hand at their factory in Delft, De Paauw.

8 Nationaal Monument  F4 ⌂ Dam Square v 4, 9, 14, 16, 24

Sculpted by John Rädecker (1885–1956) and designed by architect J J P Oud (1890–1963), the 22-m (70-ft) obelisk that looms over Dam Square commemorates Dutch World War II casualties. It was unveiled in 1956, and is fronted by two lions – heraldic symbols of the Netherlands. Embedded in the wall behind are urns The striking Munttoren sits on the edge of the Singel

PICTURE PERFECT

Canal View from Torensluis Spanning the Singel, the Torensluis is the ideal place from which to snap a quintessential Amsterdam image. Capture the canalboats chugging along against a backdrop of highgabled canal houses. On warm days, take a seat at a café table while you wait for the perfect photo opportunity.

containing earth from all the Dutch provinces and the former colonies of Indonesia, the Antilles and Suriname.

9 Torensluis  E4 ⌂ Singel between Torensteeg and Oude Leliestraat v 2, 11, 12, 13, 17

The Torensluis is one of the oldest and widest bridges in Amsterdam. Spanning a width

Retaining its former opulence, Magna Plaza’s colonnaded interior

of 42 m (138 ft), it was built on the site of a 17th-century sluice gate and took its name from a tower that stood on the bridge until it was demolished in 1829 (its outline is marked in the pavement). A jail was built in its foundations and if you look carefully you can see the barred windows and arched entrance leading to the old dungeon below the water line. The statue dominating the bridge is of the 19th-century Dutch author Eduard Douwes Dekker (1820–87), who wrote under the pseudonym Multatuli. His novel Max Havelaar, which was published in 1860, is a polemic against the atrocities committed by Dutch colonialists in the East Indies (modern-day Indonesia). The protagonist, Max Havelaar, battles against the corrupt government of Java. The book was a source of encouragement to reformers, but the Dutch were ultimately evicted from their empire only by force.

10 \ = Magna Plaza  E4 ⌂ Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182 v 2, 11, 12, 13, 17 # 10am–10pm daily ∑ magnaplaza.nl

A wall panel on the current building’s façade depicts the site’s original function. In 1748, it was a postkantoor (post office), but it was taken out of service in 1854. The present building was completed in 1899. C H Peters (1847–1932), the architect, was ridiculed for the extravagance of its NeoGothic design: critics dubbed the elaborately decorated exterior, with its spindly towers, “post-office Gothic”. It was redeveloped in 1992, and turned into an elegant shopping mall, with the grand dimensions of Peters’ design beautifully preserved. Set over three floors, you’ll find a wide variety of luxury brands, and a food court on the top floor.

EAT Trattoria Caprese

Lively Italian restaurant that cooks up luscious pastas and organic meat dishes.  E5 ⌂ Spuistraat 259

∑ restaurantcaprese.nl ¡¡¡

Kam Yin City Centre

Traditional Surinamese roti (pancakes with either a vegetable or meat filling) are a house speciality.  G3 ⌂ Warmoesstraat 6 ∑ kamyin.nl ¡¡¡

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11 Lutherse Kerk

EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

 F3 ⌂ Kattengat 2 v  2, 11, 12, 13, 17 ¢ To the public

The Lutherse Kerk, located in Singel, was designed by Adriaan Dortsman (1625–82) and opened in 1671. It is sometimes known as the Ronde Lutherse Kerk, being the first Dutch Reformed church to feature a circular ground plan and two upper galleries, giving the whole congregation a clear view of the pulpit. In 1882 a fire started by careless plumbers destroyed everything except the exterior walls. When the interior and entrance were rebuilt in 1883, they were made squarer and more ornate, in keeping with ecclesiastical architecture of that time. A vaulted copper dome replaced the earlier ribbed version. Falling attendances led to the closure and decon­ secration of the church in 1935 and, since 1975, it has acted as the Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel’s conference centre and banqueting chamber. Take time, however, to admire its unique exterior, which stands out among the canal houses.

12 Sint Nicolaasbasiliek  G3 ⌂ Prins Hendrikkade 73 v 2, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24 q Centraal Station # Noon–3pm Mon & Sat, 11am–4pm Tue–Fri ∑ nicolaas-parochie.nl

Sint Nicolaas, the patron saint of seafarers, is an important icon in Holland. Many churches are named

The circular copper dome of Lutherse Kerk reflected in the canal

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after him, and 5 December (Sint Nicolaas Eve) is the Netherlands’ principal day for the giving of presents. Amsterdam’s biggest Catholic church, the Sint Nicolaasbasiliek was designed by A C Bleys (1842– 1912) and completed in 1887. Despite its rather grim and forbidding exterior, with its twin towers looming over Zeedijk and the Oosterdok, Sint Nicolaasbasiliek’s completion marked the rehabilitation of the Catholic faith after centuries of clandestine worship during the period when Amsterdam was officially Protestant (p53). Its predecessor was the Oude Kerk (which was Catholic until the Alteration,

1,281 Bridges span the 50 km (31 miles) of canals in Amsterdam.

and dedicated to St Nicholas), and when this church became Protestant, Catholics wor­ shipped secretly in the hidden church at Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (p76). The joy and relief of the congregation is reflected in the church’s interior, which is brightened by stained­glass windows set in its imposing dome. Services are held most days (Tuesday in English), and the church occasionally hosts concerts and recitals featuring the magnificently restored 19th­century Sauer organ.

13 " Beurs van Berlage  F4 ⌂ Damrak 2 v 4, 14, 24 # Only during exhibitions ∑ beurs vanberlage.com

Built in 1903 to a design by Hendrik Petrus Berlage (1856– 1934), this is a striking moder­ nist building. The former stock exchange’s clean, functional appearance marked a depar­ ture from late 19th­century Revivalist architecture.

Colourful stained-glass windows adorn Sint Nicolaasbasiliek’s impressive dome

Despite its rather grim and forbidding exterior, with its twin towers looming over Zeedijk and the Oosterdok, Sint Nicolaasbasiliek’s completion marked the rehabilitation of the Catholic faith.

DRINK Wynand Fockink

Its curvaceous lines, plain exterior and, above all, Berlage’s imaginative use of red brick as a decorative construction material inspired the later architects of the Amsterdam School (p37). It has an impressive frieze above the entrance showing the evolution of man from Adam to stockbroker. The building is entered through a 40-m (130-ft) clock tower that gives access to three massive halls once used as trading floors. Inside, the main hall is decorated with ceramic friezes depicting different labourers, including miners and coffee pickers. Now used as a conference venue, it also hosts a variety of changing exhibitions and concerts, and there is a good bistro.

Famous proeflokaal with a huge choice of jenevers and beers.  F5 ⌂ Pijlsteeg 31

∑ wynand-fockink.nl

In de Wildeman

This tavern has at least 18 craft beers on tap and 200 more by the bottle.  F3 ⌂ Kolksteeg 3 ¢ Sun ∑ indewildeman.nl

Café Hoppe

A 17th-century bruin café (local pub) serving limited-edition craft ales, traditional jenevers and liqueurs.  E6 ⌂ Spui 18

∑ cafehoppe.com

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A SHORT WALK

EXPERIENCE Nieuwe Zijde

NIEUWE ZIJDE Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest metro Rokin Time 15 minutes

Although much of the medieval Nieuwe Zijde has disappeared, the area is still rich in buildings that relate to the city’s past. A walk from Dam Square to Spui takes you past examples of architecture from the 15th to the 20th century. You’ll stroll along narrow streets and alleys which follow the course of some of

the earliest dykes and footpaths. Along the way, pause at traditional gabled houses that have been turned into bustling shops and cafés. Financial institutions on Rokin and Nes have made way for chic department stores and lively cafés. Nes is also known for its alternative theatre venues.

Kalverstraat, a busy shopping area, took its name from the livestock market which was regularly held here during the 15th century.

The charming houses of Begijnhof Wall plaques and maps showing the walled medieval city are on display in the Amsterdam Museum – a converted 16th-century orphanage (p74). Two churches and one of the few remaining wooden houses in the city nestle in the Begijnhof’s secluded, tree-filled courtyard (p78).

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Built as the town hall, the Koninklijk Paleis has a Classical façade and fine sculptures that were intended to glorify the city and its government (p79).

NIEUWE ZIJDE

Much of the Nieuwe Kerk was destroyed in the great fire of 1645 (p72).

Locator Map For more detail see p70

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Did You Know? Dam Square derives its name from its original function – damming the Amstel river.

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As well as waxworks and animated scenes, there is a fine view of the city from Madame Tussauds Scenerama.

Nes is one of Amsterdam’s oldest streets and has been a centre for theatre for 150 years.

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The historic buildings lining the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal

OUDE ZIJDE As the name – Oude Zijde (Old Side) – suggests, this is where Amsterdam has its roots. Originally Amsterdam occupied a ribbon of land on the east bank of the Amstel river, running between Damrak and the Oudezijds Voorburgwal (“before the city wall”) canals. At its heart was the Oude Kerk, the oldest church in the city. In the early 1400s the Oude Zijde began an eastward expansion which continued into the 17th century. This growth was fuelled by an influx of Jewish refugees from Portugal, who were fleeing the Inquisition. Many of these Sephardic Jews were merchants and craftsmen and they brought wealth to their new, tolerant city, building schools and synagogues. The Grote Synagoge, as well as the three other synagogues that make up the Joods Historisch Museum, were central to Jewish life in the city for centuries. During the 17th century, the Oude Zijde was an important commercial centre. Boats could sail up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt, where goods were weighed at the 15th-century Waag before being sold at the market. 87

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The spire of the bell tower was built in 1565, but the 47-bell carillon was added in 1658.

OUDE KERK EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

 G4 ⌂ Oudekerksplein v 4, 24 # 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 1–5:30pm Sun ¢ 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ oudekerk.nl

Sitting incongruously in the heart of the Red Light District, the “Old Church” is Amsterdam’s oldest and most stately monument. The Oude Kerk dates from the mid-13th century, when a wooden church was built in a burial ground on a sand bank. The present Gothic structure is 14th century and has grown from a single-aisled church into a basilica. As it expanded, it became a gathering place for traders and a refuge for the poor. Its paintings and statuary were destroyed after the Alteration (p53) in 1578, but the rare gilded ceiling and stained-glass windows were undamaged. The world-famous organ was added in 1724. The church still holds services, but also hosts art exhibitions, performances and debates. The Oude Kerk is dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of the city. Great Organ

2,500 Tombstones are found in the church floor.

Tomb of Admiral Abraham van der Hulst, hero of the Second Anglo-Dutch War Main entrance to church on Oudekerksplein

Illustration showing both the Oude Kerk’s medieval exterior and its magnificent interior

The medieval Oude Kerk, a striking sight against the frenetic Red Light District

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Must See

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Tomb of the explorer Admiral Jacob van Heemskerk (1567–1607)

Brocaded pillars

Lady Chapel

3 1 Contemporary art exhibitions, such as Christian Boltanski’s NA, juxtapose with the Oude Kerk’s medieval interior. 2 The Lady Chapel (1552) has three restored stainedglass windows, including The Death of the Virgin Mary by Dirk Crabeth. 3 Delicate 15th-century gilded vault paintings decorate the ceiling of the nave. They were hidden under layers of blue paint in 1755 and not revealed until 1955.

Timeline

17th- and 18th-century houses

1250

1578

1724

First wooden chapel built

Calvinists triumph in the Alteration and iconoclasts destroy many of the statues in the church

▶ Christian Vater’s oak-encased Great Organ, with its 4,000 pipes, is installed in the nave

1330

Church dedicated to St Nicholas

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EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

2"'-=

JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM  H6 ⌂ Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 v 14 4 Nationale Opera & Ballet q Waterlooplein # 11am–5pm daily ¢ 27 Apr, Yom Kippur and Jewish New Year ∑ jck.nl/en

From the first Jews to arrive in Amsterdam to the preservation of Jewish identity today, this museum tells the turbulent history of the Jewish community in the Netherlands. The Collection This remarkable museum of Jewish heritage is housed in four monumental synagogues – the Grote Synagoge, Nieuwe Synagoge, Obbene Shul and Dritt Shul. Three permanent multimedia exhibitions present the history and culture of the Jewish people in the Netherlands through paintings, drawings, artifacts, photo­ graphs, films and 3D displays. In addition, there are temporary exhibitions and a Children’s Museum. This museum, the Portugese Synagoge (p102) and the Nationaal Holocaust Museum (p170), are at the core of Joods Cultureel Kwartier (the Jewish Cultural Quarter).

The Nieuwe Synagoge (1752)

1 1 The main entrance to the museum is through the stately Grote Synagoge. 2 This Festival Prayer Book was presented to the city’s Jewish community by printer Uri Phoebus ha-Levi in 1669. 3 The side galleries of the Nieuwe Synagoge house part of the permanent collection. Photographs and artifacts tell emotive stories.

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Must See JEWS IN AMSTERDAM Hanukkah lamp

Obbene Shul (1685) (Children’s Museum)

The first Jew to gain Dutch citizenship was a member of the Portuguese Sephardic community in 1597. The Ashkenazi Jews from eastern Europe came to Amsterdam later, in the 1630s. They were restricted to working in certain trades, but were granted full civil equality in 1796. With the rise of Zionism in the 19th century, Jewish identity re-emerged, but the Nazi occupation almost obliterated the community (p55). Dritt Shul (1778)

Café

The main entrance to the museum is through the Grote Synagoge, which was built in 1671 by Elias Bouman.

The Festival Prayer Book is housed in the Grote Synagoge. The mikveh, or bath for ritual purification

The four synagogues that make up the Joods Historisch Museum

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EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

Did You Know? Rembrandt painted himself into many of his works as a spectator.

A canvas set up in the artist’s former studio

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Must See 3"'-=

MUSEUM HET REMBRANDTHUIS  G5 ⌂ Jodenbreestraat 4 v 14 q Nieuwmarkt # 10am–6pm daily ¢ 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ rembrandthuis.nl

The former home of Amsterdam’s most famous artist – creator of The Nightwatch, The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp and over 300 other works – has been transformed into a sensitive museum allowing an intimate glimpse into the life and times of Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. Rembrandt was an established portraitist, married to the daughter of a wealthy bourgeois family, when he bought this red-shuttered house on the edge of the Jewish district in 1639. By 1656, however, his fortunes had changed. No longer an artistic star, he was forced to sell his home. Furnished according to the 1656 inventory, the house is now a museum dedicated to the artist. On the first floor is the studio where Rembrandt created many of his most famous works, and on the mezzanine floor some of his superb etchings are displayed alongside works by his contemporaries. Daily 17th-century etching and paint-mixing demonstrations – at no extra cost – enhance the experience. The museum will be renovated between November 2021 and summer 2022, and some parts of the museum may be closed off at different times.

The exterior of Rembrandt’s home looking much as it did when he lived here

REMBRANDT’S SITTERS

A visitor admiring an exhibition of Rembrandt’s works alongside paintings by artists he inspired

Sephardi Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition began to arrive in Amsterdam in the early 17th century. They settled on the eastern fringes of the Oude Zijde. Many Sephardim were already wealthy when they arrived in Amsterdam, and in Rembrandt’s day this part of town was an up-and-coming neighbourhood. Its striking young women and craggy elders were the perfect models for Rembrandt’s series of paintings inspired by Old Testament myths.

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

4\Waag  G4 ⌂ Nieuwmarkt 4 q Nieuwmarkt ∑ waag.org

The multi-turreted Waag is Amsterdam’s oldest surviving gatehouse. Built in 1488, it was then called St Antoniespoort. Public executions were held here, and prisoners awaited their fate in the “little gallows room”. In 1617, the building became the public weigh house (waaggebouw); peasants had their produce weighed here and paid tax accordingly. Various guilds moved into the upper rooms of each tower, including the Guild of Surgeons, who from 1619 had their meeting room and anatomy theatre here. They added the central octagonal tower in 1691. Rembrandt’s Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp, now in the Mauritshuis (p204), and

The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman, in the Amsterdam Museum (p74), were commissioned by the guild. After the weigh house closed in the early 1800s, the Waag served as a fire station and two city museums. But even into the first half of the 19th century, punishments were carried out in front of the building. The ground floor is home to the café-restaurant In de Waag (p102). Upstairs is the Waag Society, a research collective focusing on science, technology and the arts.

5 Agnietenkapel  F5 ⌂ Oudezijds Voorburgwal 231 v 4, 14, 24 ¢ To the public

The Agnietenkapel, which dates from 1470, was part of the convent of St Agnes

DRINK Café de Druif

Fragrant with four centuries of tobacco smoke and rum, Café de Druif may be the city’s oldest tavern.  J5 ⌂ Rapenburgerplein 83 § 06 3852 3553

Café de Engelbewaarder

Drop in to this traditional tavern on a Sunday for live jazz. Its arty habitués are lubricated by 15 brands of tasty beer from its taps.  G5 ⌂ Kloveniersburgwal 59 ∑ cafe-deengelbewaarder.nl

Café de Sluyswacht

Perched beside the Oude Schans, Café de Sluyswacht greets visitors with appetizing smells from the kitchen. In summer, watch the canalboats puttering past from the terrace.  G5 ⌂ Jodenbreestraat 1 ¢ D Sun ∑ sluyswacht.nl

until 1578, when it was closed after the Alteration (p53). It is one of the few Gothic chapels to have survived this period of turmoil. In 1632, the Athenaeum Illustre, the precursor of the University of Amsterdam, took it over and by the mid-17th century it was a centre of scientific learning. It also housed the municipal The imposing 15th-century Waag lit up at dusk

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Clothing stalls at the Nieuwmarkt, with the Waag in the background

library until the 1830s. During restoration from 1919 to 1921, elements of Amsterdam School archi­ tecture were introduced to the building (p37). Despite these changes and long periods of secular use, the building still has the feel of a Franciscan chapel. The large auditorium on the first floor is the city’s oldest, and is used for university lectures. It has a lovely ceiling, painted with Renaissance motifs and a portrait of Minerva. A series of portraits of scholars – a gift from local merchant Gerardus van Papenbroeck in 1743 – also adorns the walls. From 1921 until 2007, the chapel was home to the University Museum. It is now used as a conference centre and is not open to the public.

6 Nieuwmarkt  G4 q Nieuwmarkt # Antiques market: May– Sep: 9am–5pm Sun; Organic market: 9am–4pm Sat

An open, paved square, the Nieuwmarkt is flanked to

the west by the Red Light District. Along with the top end of the Geldersekade, it forms Amsterdam’s Chinatown. The Waag dominates the square, and construction of this gateway led to the site’s development in the 15th century as a marketplace. When the city expanded in the 17th century, the square took on its present dimen­ sions and was named the Nieuwmarkt. It retains an array of 17th­ and 18th­century gabled houses and, true to

tradition, antiques and organic markets are still held here. The old Jewish Quarter leads off the square down St Antoniesbreestraat. In the 1970s, many houses in this area were demolished to make way for the metro, sparking clashes between protesters and police. The action of conservationists persuaded the city council to renovate rather than redevelop old buildings. In tribute to them, photographs of their protests decorate the metro.

RED LIGHT DISTRICT Barely clad prostitutes bathed in a red neon glow and touting for business at their windows is one of the defining images of Amsterdam. The city’s Red Light District, referred to locally as de Walletjes (the little walls), is concentrated around the Oude Kerk, although it extends as far as Warmoesstraat to the west, the Zeedijk to the north, the Kloveniersburgwal to the east and then along the line of Damstraat to the south. Prostitution in Amsterdam dates back to the city’s emergence as a port in the 13th century. By 1478, prostitution had become so widespread, with increasing numbers of sea-weary sailors flooding into the city, that attempts were made to contain it. Today, the council has banned photography and tours of the area and has made it more culturally attractive by promoting the bars, eateries and beautiful canalside houses that punctuate the streets.

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EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

7" Zuiderkerk  G5 ⌂ Zuiderkerkhof 72 v 14 q Nieuwmarkt # Concerts only, check website; tower: Apr–Oct: 9am–8:30pm Wed–Mon ∑  zuiderkerkamsterdam.nl; tower: westertoren amsterdam.nl

The Renaissance-style Zuiderkerk, designed by Hendrick de Keyser in 1603 (p37), was the first Calvinist church in Amsterdam after the Alteration (p53). The spire, with its columns, decorative clocks and onion dome, is a prominent city landmark. The Zuiderkerk ceased to function as a church in 1929 and it is now a meeting and congress centre. The main reason to visit the Zuiderkerk is to climb the tower, which overlooks olive-green canals.

8 Montelbaanstoren  H5 ⌂ Oudeschans 2 q Nieuwmarkt ¢ To the public

The lower portion of the Montelbaanstoren was built

The medieval Montelbaanstoren, with its decorative timber steeple

in 1512 and formed part of Amsterdam’s medieval fortifications. It lay just beyond the city wall, protecting the city’s wharves on the newly built St Antoniesdijk (now the Oudeschans) from the neighbouring Gelderlanders. The octagonal structure and open-work timber steeple were both added by Hendrick de Keyser in 1606. His

MARIJUANA AND HEMP Cannabis, or marijuana, has played a large part in Amsterdam’s history. Around 8,000 years ago, early Asiatic civilizations used the plant for medicines and clothing. It was first prescribed in the Netherlands, according to a herbal manual of 1554, as a cure for earache. The Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum (www.hash museum.com) explores the plant’s historic links to Amsterdam and explains its place in the city today.

98

decorative addition bears a close resemblance to the spire of the Oude Kerk, designed by Joost Bilhamer, which was built 40 years earlier (p90). In 1611, the tower began to list, prompting Amsterdammers to attach ropes to the top and pull it right again. Sailors from the VOC (p54) would gather at the Montelbaanstoren before being ferried in small boats down the IJ to the massive East Indies-bound sailing ships, anchored further out in deep water to the north. The building, now housing Amsterdam’s water authority, appears in a number of etchings by Rembrandt, and is still a popular subject for artists.

9' Stadhuis-Nationale Opera & Ballet

HASH MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM SIGN

 G6 ⌂ Waterlooplein 22 § Stadhuis: 625 5455 v 14 q Waterlooplein # Offices: 8:30am–8pm Mon–Fri ∑ operaballet.nl

Few buildings in Amsterdam caused as much controversy

as the Stadhuis (town hall) and Nationale Opera & Ballet (opera house). Nicknamed the “Stopera” by protesters, the scheme required the des­ truction of dozens of medieval houses, which were virtually all that remained of the original Jewish quarter. This led to running battles between squatters and police. Completed in 1986, the Nationale Opera & Ballet has one of the largest auditoriums in the country, seating 1,689 people, and is home to the Netherlands’ national opera and ballet companies. Book a ticket for a performance, take a backstage tour or, better yet, attend one of the free concerts at 12:30pm on Tuesdays from September to May.

10 " \ = NEMO Science Museum  J4 ⌂ Oosterdok 2 @ 22, 48 v  2, 4,11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24 q Centraal Station # 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun (daily during school hols & mid-Feb– Aug) ¢  27 Apr ∑ nemo sciencemuseum.nl

In June 1997 the Netherlands’ national science museum moved to this dazzling curved

building, desiged by Renzo Piano, which protrudes 30 m (98 ft) over water. NEMO is the largest science museum in the Netherlands, with five floors filled with interactive exhibits, presenting techno­ logical innovations in a man­ ner that allows both adults’ and children’s creativity full expression. You can interact with virtual reality, operate the latest indu­ strial equipment under expert supervision and harness science to produce your own art. Visitors – who in this setting might equally be termed explorers – can participate in experiments, demonstrations, games and workshops, or take in lectures, films and even educational stage shows. The five floors are crammed full of fascinating exhibitions and fun activities. Discover new ways to enjoy mathe­ matics in the World of Shapes; go on a voyage into space to learn more about the stars and the planets in Life in the Universe; or awaken a fascination for physics in Sensational Science. NEMO Science Museum has the largest roof terrace in Amsterdam, with great views of the city. Piano designed the roof to resemble an Italian piazza and it provides the per­ fect spot to relax. Here you

will also find an open­air exhibition and a restaurant. Access the roof via the lift from the central hall, or the stairs from street level, for €3.50 without an entrance ticket. The website lists special events, including live music and film screenings, held on the roof in spring and summer.

STAY Grand Hotel Amrath Redolent of another era, rooms here combine Art Deco with 21st-century style.  H4 ⌂ Prins Hendrikkade 108 ∑ amrath amsterdam.com ¡¡¡

MISC

This boutique hotel is in a 17th-century canal house.  G5 ⌂ Kloveniersburgwal 20 ∑ misceatdrink sleep.com ¡¡¡

The futuristic copper hull of NEMO Science Museum

Boats lining a canal near Zuiderkerk

EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

q"= Portugese Synagoge  H6 ⌂ Mr Visserplein 3 v 14 q Waterlooplein # Feb–Nov: 10am–5pm Sun–Thu (to 4pm Fri Mar– Oct; to 2pm Fri Nov & Feb); Dec & Jan: 10am–4pm Sun– Thu (to 2pm Fri) ¢  Jewish hols ∑ jck.nl/en

The design for this synagogue, by Elias Bouman (1636–86), was inspired by the archi­ tecture of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem. Built for the Portuguese Sephardic community of Amsterdam (p93) and inaugurated in 1675, the huge building has a rectangular ground plan with the Holy Ark in the southeast corner facing Jerusalem, and the tebah (the podium from which the service is led) at the opposite end. The wooden, barrel­vaulted ceiling is supported by four Ionic columns. The interior of the synagogue is illuminated by more than 1,000 candles. Treasure chambers in the base­ ment contain a sumptuous

Did You Know? Amsterdam’s nickname – “Mokum” – means “place of refuge” in Yiddish.

w Waterlooplein

EAT Greetje

Famous for its Cantonese cuisine, Oriental City serves great dim sum (steamed or deepfried dumplings).

 J5 ⌂ Peperstraat 23 ¢ L daily ∑ restaurantgreetje.nl

 F5 ⌂ Oudezijds Voorburgwal 177–9 ∑ oriental­city.com

¡¡¡

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In de Waag

102

Oriental City

Try elegant Dutch cuisine – think braised veal with a chicoree and clove cheese mash and trekdrop (liquorice) crème brûlée.

This candlelit room in a 15th-century gatehouse is beautiful. The menu lists classic dishes.

collection of ceremonial objects made of silver, gold and silk brocades, and rare manuscripts. The synagogue is part of the city’s Jewish Cultural Quarter.

Café de Jaren

The restaurant’s biggest selling point is its terrace overlooking the Amstel.

G4 ⌂ Nieuwmarkt 4 ∑ indewaag.nl

 F6 ⌂ Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20 ∑ cafedejaren.nl

¡¡¡

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 H6 v 14 q Waterloo­ plein # Market: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–5pm Sat

The Waterlooplein dates from 1882, when two canals were filled in to create a large market square. The site was originally called Vlooyenburg, an artificial island built in the 17th century to house the Jewish settlers. The original market disappeared during World War II when most of the Jewish residents of Amsterdam were transported by the Nazis to concentration camps (p55). After the war, a popular flea market grew up in its place. Despite encroachment by the Stadhuis­Nationale Opera & Ballet, the northern end of the Waterlooplein

Decorated stalls awaiting opening time at Waterlooplein’s flea market

still operates a lively and interesting market, selling anything from bric-a-brac and army-surplus clothing to Balinese carvings.

e Mozes en Aäronkerk  H6 ⌂ Waterlooplein 205 v 14 q Waterlooplein # Prayer services: 8pm Tue & Fri; Holy Mass: 5pm Sun ∑ santegidio.nl

r\Schreierstoren  H3 ⌂ Prins Hendrikkade 94–95 q Centraal Station # 10am–11pm daily ∑ weepingtower.nl

Dating from 1480, the Schreierstoren (Weepers’ Tower) was a defensive structure forming part of the

medieval city walls. It was one of the few fortifications not to be demolished as the city expanded beyond its medieval boundaries in the 17th century. The building now houses the VOC café. Popular legend states that the tower derived its name from the weeping (schreien in the original Dutch) of women who came here to wave their men off to sea. It is more likely, however, that the title comes from the tower’s position on a sharp (screye or scherpe) 90-degree bend in the old town walls. A wall plaque, dated 1569, adds considerably to the confusion by depicting a weeping woman alongside the inscription scrayer hovck, which means “sharp corner”. In 1609, Henry Hudson set sail from here in an attempt to discover a new and faster trading route to the East Indies. Instead, he unintentionally “discovered” the river in North America that bears his name. A bronze plaque, laid in 1927, commemorates his voyage. The Schreierstoren standing out from the canal houses

Designed by the Flemish architect T Suys the Elder in 1841, Mozes en Aäronkerk was built on the site of a hidden Catholic church. The later church, with its two towers, took its name from the Old Testament figures of Moses and Aaron depicted on the gable stones of the original building. These are now set into the rear wall. The church was restored in 1990, when its twin wooden towers were painted to look like sandstone. After years of hosting events, it is again a place of worship. 103

A SHORT WALK

EXPERIENCE Oude Zijde

UNIVERSITY DISTRICT

Marijuana through the ages is explored at the Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum (p98).

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest metro Nieuwmarkt Time 15 minutes

The University of Amsterdam, founded in 1877, is predominantly located in the peaceful, southwestern part of the Oude Zijde. A walk around the university district from Nieuwmarkt to the Agnietenkapel – where the university has its roots – takes in everything from the bustling Red Light District, where Damstraat meets the Nieuwmarkt, to the 15th-century Waag, which evokes a medieval air. As you head south of the Nieuwmarkt, stop off at Museum Het Rembrandthuis for a fascinating insight into the life of the city’s most famous artist.

FINISH

Z I J D S

O U D E

The exterior of the Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Originally part of a convent, the Agnietenkapel survived destruction during the Alteration, and got a new lease of life serving as the University of Amsterdam’s first lecture hall (p96).

This house, which was built in 1610, unusually faces three canals.

The large Oudemanhuispoort was built in the 18th century to function as an almshouse for elderly men.

104

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Despite redevelopment southeast of this once-important market square, the Nieuwmarkt itself is still bordered by many fine 17th- and 18th-century gabled houses (p97).

Although it appears to be a single 17th-century mansion, the Trippenhuis is in fact two houses, the middle windows being false to preserve the symmetry.

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Hundreds of Rembrandt’s etchings are displayed in the Museum Het Rembrandthuis (p94).

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Art Deco interior of Café Americain

CENTRAL CANAL RING The extension of Amsterdam’s three major canals continued from the early 17th century, as the merchant classes, rich from booming maritime trade, sought to escape the overcrowding and industrial squalor in the old city, around the Amstel. They bought plots of land along the new extensions to the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht canals, and in the 1660s the wealthiest built opulent houses on a stretch of Herengracht known as the Golden Bend. Designed and decorated by the best architects of the day, such as Philips Vingboons (1607–1678), the mansions built here were often twice the width of standard canal houses, demonstrating the wealth of their occupants. The area’s most famous building, however, is the Anne Frank Huis. Together with the Homomonument, these sites attest to Amsterdam’s characteristic tolerance, as well as serving as reminders of the realities of the Nazi occupation during World War II. 107

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ANNE FRANK HUIS EXPERIENCE Central Canal Ring

 D4 ⌂ Westermarkt 58 v 13, 17 # Check website for details ¢ Yom Kippur ∑ annefrank.org

Anne Frank’s diary is a moving portrait of a little girl growing up in times of oppression. Even those who have not read her diary will be moved by the annexe where she and her family hid. On 6 July 1942, to avoid their Nazi persecutors, the Jewish Frank family moved from Merwedeplein to the rear annexe of the warehouse at Prinsengracht 263. Anne, her mother Edith, her father Otto and her older sister Margot lived here, along with the Van Pels family and dentist Fritz Pfeffer. It was here that Anne wrote her famous diary. On 4 August 1944, the annexe was raided by the Gestapo. All those hiding were arrested and taken to different Nazi concentration camps. The building beside Anne Frank Huis holds exhibitions exploring all forms of persecution and discrimination, as well as explaining Anne’s story. It is the almost empty annexe, however, which conveys the realities of persecution. Tickets are only available online; it is advisable to book well in advance.

Attic The Van Pels family’s room

Anne’s bedroom The Frank family’s bedroom

Bathroom

Behind the hinged bookcase is a small suite of rooms where the Franks, Van Pels and Pfeffer lived.

The plain façade offering no clues to the secret annexe found inside

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Illustration showing the Anne Frank Huis’s secret annexe

Must See

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3 1 Photographs of Anne – happy and care-free – before she went into hiding are displayed in the building beside the annexe.

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2 Anne and Fritz shared a room on the first floor of the annexe. On Anne’s bedroom walls were photos of film stars, which she collected. Anne wrote most of her diary at the table here. Main building housing the offices and warehouse of Otto Frank’s pectin and spice business

3 Visitors to the Anne Frank Huis enter the annexe via the revolving bookcase that hid its entrance.

THE DIARY OF ANNE FRANK Otto Frank returned to Amsterdam in 1945 to discover that his entire family had perished: his wife, Edith, in Auschwitz and his daughters, Anne and Margot, in BergenBelsen. Miep Gies, one of the family’s helpers while they were in hiding, had kept Anne’s diary. First published in 1947, it has since been translated into 70 languages, with some 35 million copies sold. For many, Anne symbolizes the six million Jews murdered by the Nazis in World War II.

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Central Canal Ring

2" Internationaal Theater Amsterdam  D7 ⌂ Leidseplein 26 v 1, 2, 5, 7, 11, 12, 19 # Box office: noon–6pm Mon–Sat; two hours before perform­ ance Sun ∑ ita.nl

This Neo-Renaissance building, dating from 1894, is the most recent of three successive municipal theatres in the city, its predecessors having burned down. The theatre was designed by Jan Springer (1850– 1915), whose other credits include the Frascati building on Oxford Street in London, and A L van Gendt (1835–1901), who was also responsible for the Concertgebouw (p132) and for part of Centraal Station. The planned ornamentation of the theatre’s red-brick exterior was never carried out because of budget cuts. This, combined with a hostile public reaction to his theatre, forced a disillusioned Springer into virtual retirement. Public

SHOP De Negen Straatjes

The Singel bounds this rectangle of nine small shopping streets to the east and the Prinsengracht borders it to the west. The “Nine Streets” are filled with designer boutiques and vintage stores. Be sure to check out Laura Dols at Wolvenstraat 7, which specializes in the 1950s, and I Love Vintage at Prinsengracht 201.  E5

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disgust was due, however, to the theatre management’s policy of restricting use of the front door to patrons who had bought expensive tickets. The whole building has since been given a face-lift. Until the Nationale Opera & Ballet was completed in 1986 (p98), the Stadsschouwburg was home to the Dutch national ballet and opera companies. Today, the theatre stages plays from local artistic groups such as the resident Toneelgroep Amsterdam, and international companies, including some English-language productions. An auditorium, located between the Melkweg (p41) and the Stadsschouwburg, is used by both centres for large-scale performances.

3"'= Grachtenmuseum Amsterdam  E6 ⌂ Herengracht 386 v 2, 11, 12 # 11am–4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ grachten.museum

This ornate canal house was designed in 1663 and 1665 by Philips Vingboons (1607– 78), the architect of the Cromhouthuis – Bijbels Museum (p114). Once the former home of merchants and bankers, the house is now the Museum of the Canals. Using fun interactive displays, it tells the story of town planning and engineering for the creation of Amsterdam’s triple canal ring. The ground floor has been restored to its 18th-century splendour, complete with original wall paintings. The museum’s upper rooms showcase detailed models, films and 3D animation on the construction of the canals, along with the stately mansions that line the route.

25,000 Bicycles end up in Amsterdam’s canals every year.

4 De Krijtberg  E6 ⌂ Singel 448 v 2, 11, 12 # Check website for details ∑ krijtberg.nl

An impressive Neo-Gothic church, the Krijtberg (chalk hill) replaced a clandestine Jesuit chapel in 1884. It is officially known as Franciscus Xaveriuskerk, after St Francis Xavier, one of the founding Jesuit priests. Designed by Alfred Tepe (1840–1920), the church was constructed on the site of three houses; the presbytery beside the church is on the site of two other houses, one of which had belonged to a chalk merchant – hence the church’s nickname. The back of the church is wider than the front. The narrowness of the façade is redeemed by its two magnificent, steepled towers, which soar to 17 m (55 ft). The ornate interior of the building has spectacular lighting and contains some good examples of NeoGothic design. The stainedglass windows, walls painted in bright colours and liberal use of gold are in striking contrast to the city’s austere Protestant churches. A statue of St Francis Xavier stands to the front left of the high altar; one of St Ignatius, founder of the Jesuits, stands to the right. The colourful interior of De Krijtberg

EXPERIENCE Central Canal Ring

5"= Cromhouthuizen  E6 ⌂ Herengracht 366–368 v 2, 11, 12 4 Herengracht/ Leidsegracht ¢ For renovation, check website for details ∑ stadsherstel.nl

This canal house, and the one next door, were owned by the Cromhout family, eminent Amsterdam citizens in the 17th and 18th centuries. They were avid art collectors, and the houses have been restored to recreate their eclectic collection of por-traits and curiosities. Two of the salons have fine ceiling paintings by Jacob de Wit, and other features include two wellpreserved 17th-century kitchens. Behind the house is a lovely, tranquil garden. The houses are closed for renovation, and will open to the public again in the summer of 2021. Check the website for updates and opening times.

The Palladian faÇade of the 18th-century Felix Meritis Building

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6"\Felix Meritis Building  D5 ⌂ Keizersgracht 324 v 2, 11, 12, 13, 17 # 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, during events ∑ felixmeritis.nl

This Neo-Classical building is best viewed from the opposite side of the canal. Designed by Jacob Otten Husly, it opened in 1787 as a science and arts centre set up by the Felix Meritis society. The name means “happiness through merit”. An association of wealthy citizens, the society was founded by the watchmaker Willem Writs in 1777, at the time of the Dutch Enlightenment (p54). Five reliefs on the façade proclaim the society’s interest in natural science and art. The building was fitted out with an observatory, library, laboratories and a small concert hall. Mozart, Grieg, Saint-Saëns and

HIDDEN GEM

Homomonument The pink triangle used to “brand” homosexual men during World War II influenced Karin Daan’s 1987 design of this memorial to oppressed gay men and women. The seating provides a quiet place of contemplation amid the bustle of Westermarkt.

Brahms are among the many distinguished musicians who have given performances in the society’s hall. In the 19th century, it became Amsterdam’s main cultural centre, and its concert hall inspired the design of the Concertgebouw (p132). The Dutch Communist Party (CPN) occupied the premises from 1946, however, its cultural prominence was restored in the 1970s when the Shaffy Theatre Company used the

Westerkerk, standing proudly alongside the Keizersgracht canal

building as a theatre and won acclaim for its avantgarde productions. In 1988 the building housed the European Centre for Arts and Sciences. After an extensive renovation, it reopened once more as a cultural centre in July 2020.

7"' Westerkerk  D4 ⌂ Prinsengracht 281 v 13, 17 ¢ For restoration, check website for details ∑ westerkerk.nl

This is the most beautiful of the four churches built to the north, south, east and west of the city’s core in the 17th century as part of the development of the Canal Ring.

It has the tallest tower in the city at 85 m (272 ft) high, and the largest nave of any Dutch Protestant church. It was designed by Hendrick de Keyser, who died in 1621, a year after work began (p37). Rembrandt, the famous Dutch painter, was buried here, though his grave has never been found. The shutters of the huge organ (1686) were beautifully painted, by Gérard de Lairesse, a 17th-century painter, with scenes showing King David, the Queen of Sheba and the Evangelists. The spire of the Westerkerk, which is built in tapering sections, is topped by the Imperial Crown of Maximilian. The stunning panoramic views of Amsterdam from the top of the tower justify the rather gruelling climb.

EAT Café Americain

Stained glass illuminates the Art Deco interior of this café.  D7 ⌂ Leidsekade 97 ∑ cafeamericain.nl ¡¡¡

Restaurant ‘t Zwaantje

The walls of this pub are covered with prints and theatre posters.  D5 ⌂ Berenstraat 12 ∑ zwaantje-restaurant.nl ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Central Canal Ring

8 Leidsegracht

9 Golden Bend

 D6 v 1, 2, 5, 7, 11, 12, 19

 E6 v 2, 11, 12, 24 # Kattenkabinet: 10am– 5pm Mon–Fri, noon–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec

The Leidsegracht was for a few years the main route for barges from Amsterdam to Leiden. It was cut in 1664 to a plan by city architect Daniel Stalpaert, and stretches for only four blocks between the grand Herengracht and the long Singelgracht, the outermost of Amsterdam’s canal rings. Despite its small size, it is now one of the city’s most desirable addresses. Townhouses for sale here start at around €2 million. Cornelis Lely, who drew up the original plans for draining the Zuiderzee (p190), was born at No 39 in 1854. A wall plaque shows Lely poised between the Zuiderzee and the newly created IJsselmeer.

The stretch of the Herengracht between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat was first called the Golden Bend in the 17th century, because of the great wealth of the shipbuilders, merchants and politicians who originally lived along here. Most of the mansions have been converted into offices, but their former elegance remains. The major­ ity of the buildings are faced with sandstone, which was more expensive than brick. The earliest mansions date from the 1660s. One very fine example of the Classicist style,

Grand mansions lining the Leidsegracht

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STAY Ambassade Boutique Hotel

Ten canal houses have been merged to create this stunning and spacious boutique.  E5 ⌂ Herengracht 341 # ambassade-hotel.nl ¡¡¡

designed by Philips Vingboons in 1664, stands at No 412. Building continued into the 18th century, with the Louis XIV style predominating; built in 1730, No 475 is typical

of this trend and it is often called the jewel of canal houses. Two sculpted female figures over the front door adorn its sandstone façade. The ornate mansion at No 452 is a good example of a 19thcentury conversion. The Kattenkabinet (Cat Museum) at No 497 Herengracht is one of the few houses on the Golden Bend that is accessible to the public and is a must-visit for fans of all things feline.

Did You Know? Canal houses tilt to allow goods to be winched to the attic without crashing into the windows.

CANAL-HOUSE ARCHITECTURE Amsterdam has been called a city of “well-mannered” architecture because its charms lie in intimate details rather than in grand effects. From the 15th century on, planning laws, plot sizes and the instability of the topsoil dictated that façades were largely uniform in size and built of lightweight brick or sandstone, with large windows to reduce the weight. As a result of this, owners stamped their own individuality on the buildings mainly through the use of decorative gables and cornices, ornate doorcases and varying window shapes. Carved and painted wall plaques were used to identify houses before street numbering was introduced in the 19th century.

A SHORT WALK

LEIDSEBUURT

In addition to bibles, there are several archaeological finds from Egypt and the Middle East on display at the Cromhouthuis – Bijbels Museum (p114).

Distance 2 km (1.5 miles) Nearest tram 2, 11, 12 (Koningsplein) Time 20 minutes

The area around Leidseplein is one of Amsterdam’s busiest nightspots. There are plays to be seen at the Internationaal Theater Amsterdam and music to be heard at Melkweg. But this area also has plenty to offer on a daytime walk. There is fine architecture to admire around the Canal Ring, such as the Former City Orphanage on Prinsengracht, the lavish De Krijtberg on the Singel and scores of grand houses on the Golden Bend.

Located in an old merchant house, Grachtenmuseum Amsterdam is a museum that tells the story of Amsterdam’s canal ring (p112).

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Young people flock to Leidseplein to watch street performances and enjoy the vibrant nightlife (p35).

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Buzzy open-air cafés on Leidseplein

This building at one time and another housed Amsterdam’s orphans and the Court of Appeal.

This converted milk-processing factory and former hippy hangout survives as Melkweg, one of Amsterdam’s key venues for alternative entertainment (p41).

A historic theatre, Internationaal Theater Amsterdam was built in 1894. It is one of the venue for Amsterdam’s Holland Festival in June (p112).

The American Hotel’s Café Americain has a fine Art Deco interior and is a popular place to while away an afternoon (p115).

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Classical columns and façades on the Herengracht’s Golden Bend powerfully recall the city’s wealth (p116).

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MUSEUM QUARTER Until the late 1800s, this land was little more than farms and smallholdings, then the city council designated it an area of art and culture. It was decided that it would be the new home of the ever-expanding Rijksmuseum, whose growing collection was at the time split between the Trippenhuis in Amsterdam, the Mauritshuis in Den Haag and a gallery in Haarlem. A design competition for the Rijksmuseum was held in 1876 and the building was completed in 1885. Further development of the area was driven by the International Colonial and Export Exhibition of 1883. By 1895 the Museumplein was home to Amsterdam’s great cultural monuments: the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum and the Concertgebouw. The Van Gogh Museum followed in 1973, its striking extension added in 1999. The area fast became a central space in the city and was used for national celebrations and commemorations. The Museumplein has two memorials to the victims of World War II. The park is still used as a site for political demonstrations as it is seen as the spiritual home of freethinkers in the city. In the early 2010s, all four of the great museums were revamped and refurbished to form what is now Amsterdam’s Museum Quarter, one of the city’s biggest attractions. 121

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RIJKSMUSEUM EXPERIENCE Museum Quarter

 D8 ⌂ Museumstraat 1 v 1, 2, 5, 7, 12, 19 4 Stadhouderskade # 9am–5pm daily (garden, shop and café to 6pm) ∑ rijksmuseum.nl

The Rijksmuseum is a familiar Amsterdam landmark and possesses an unrivalled collection of Dutch art, begun in the early 19th century. The vast museum can seem overwhelming, but with such a wealth of things to see, it’s no wonder that it’s the city’s most-visited museum. The History of the Rijksmuseum The Rijksmuseum began life as the Nationale Kunstgalerij in Den Haag. In 1808, King Louis Napoleon ordered the collection to be moved to Amsterdam and it briefly occupied the Koninklijk Paleis before it moved to its present location in 1885. The red-brick building, designed by P J H Cuypers (p36), was initially criticized, most vehemently by Amsterdam’s Protestant community for its Catholic Neo-Renaissance style. King William III famously refused to set foot inside. Nowadays, the building is fondly regarded and it forms the background of many of the images taken by novice photographers in the city due to its iconic exterior and beautifully tended gardens, which make for the perfect shot in every season.

INSIDER TIP

Beat the Queue The only way to walk straight inside the museum is to book a guided tour. Otherwise, get there at 9am or 3:30pm, and avoid Fridays and weekends.

The building is fondly regarded and it forms the background of many of the images taken by novice photographers in the city.

Must See TOP

5

UNMISSABLE EXHIBITS

The Night Watch (1642) This vast canvas was commissioned by an Amsterdam militia. The Kitchen Maid (1658) The stillness and light are typical of Vermeer. Rembrandt’s The Night Watch is the museum’s most-prized possession and its most-visited piece

A huge 17th-century model of the William Rex, housed in the Rijksmuseum

St Elizabeth’s Day Flood (1500) An unknown artist painted a flood in 1421. The Square Man (1951) This painting is typical of Appel’s CoBrA work. Shiva Nataraja (c 1100–1200) This bronze statue shows the god dancing.

The red-brick, NeoRenaissance façade of the Rijksmuseum

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EXPERIENCE Museum Quarter

Exploring the Rijksmuseum The Rijksmuseum is almost too vast to be seen in a single visit. If time is short, visit the Gallery of Honour, taking in Frans Hals, Vermeer and scores of other Old Masters, to finally arrive at Rembrandt’s The Night Watch at the centre of the building. Visitors with more time shouldn’t miss the museum’s other collections, which span the 11th century to the present day. Paintings, sculpture, historical objects and applied arts are shown side by side, emphasizing contrasts and connections. A pavilion houses the Asiatic Collection. The Gallery of Honour is lined with 17thcentury masterpieces

Visitors admiring the art, and taking a break, in one of the galleries

8,000 Pieces are displayed in the Rijksmuseum’s 80 galleries.

Must See

Gallery Guide

GENRE PAINTING For the contemporaries of Jan Steen (1625–79), the everyday scene depicted in Woman at her Toilet (c 1660) was full of symbols that are obscure to the modern viewer. The dog on the pillow may represent fidelity, and the red stockings suggest the woman’s sexuality.

Medieval and Renaissance The first specifically “Dutch” paintings. These works are mostly religious, such as The Seven Works of Charity (1504) by the Master ofAlkmaar. As the 16th century progressed, religious themes were superseded by pastoral subjects; by 1552, paintings like Pieter Aertsen’s The Egg Dance were full of realism.

17th-century Art By the Alteration in 1578 (p53), Dutch art had moved away completely from religious to secular themes. Artists turned to realistic portraiture, land­ scapes, still lifes, seascapes, domestic interiors, including genre work, and animal portraits. Don’t miss Rembrandt’s paintings.

18th-century Art The still lifes of the 17th century turned into satirical “conversation pieces”. The Art Gallery of Jan Gildemeester Jansz (1794), by Adriaan de Lelie (1755–1820), shows an 18th­century salon crowded with 17th­ century works.

Vermeer’s The Kitchen Maid, a highlight of the Dutch Golden Age

19th-century Art The early 19th century is represented by the Dutch romantics, who all reinterpreted the art of landscape painting but in contrasting styles. Artists such as Johannes Tavenraat and Wijnand Nuijen excelled in painting stormy and dramatic scenes, while Andreas Schelfhout preferred to paint more temperate and serene landscapes.

20th-century Art A small collection of 20th­century works are found under the museum’s roof. Along with clothing, photography and sculpture, works by artists Le Corbusier and Karel Appel are on display. The FK 23 Bantam biplane, designed by Koolhoven for the British Aerial Transport Company, is a highlight of this section.

Asiatic Art The pavilion between the main building and the Philips Wing is testament to the skill of artists and artisans in early Eastern cultures. Some of the earliest artifacts are the most unusual, such as tiny bronze Tang dynasty figurines from 7th­century China. Later exhibits include an extremely explicit Hindu statue entitled Heavenly Beauty.

Special Collections and Philips Wing The Special Collections gallery in the basement is a treasure trove of delftware, porcelain and much more. Temporary exhibitions are held in the Philips Wing.

A temporary exhibition of Rembrandt’s works in the Philips Wing

127

EXPERIENCE Museum Quarter

2"\-=

VAN GOGH MUSEUM  D9 ⌂ Museumplein 6 v 2, 3, 5, 12 # 9am–5pm (closing times vary, check website for details)  ∑ vangoghmuseum.com

When Van Gogh died in 1890, he was on the verge of stardom. His brother Theo, who was an art dealer, amassed a collection of 200 of his paintings and 500 drawings. These, with around 850 letters by the artist, form the core of the world’s largest Van Gogh collection. Museum Guide The Van Gogh Museum is based on a design by De Stijl architect Gerrit Rietveld (1888–1964) and opened in 1973. A freestanding wing, designed by Kisho Kurokawa, was added in 1999. The ground floor shows Van Gogh’s self-portraits chronologically. Paintings from his Dutch and French periods are on the first floor, along with works by other 19th-century artists. The second floor focuses on Van Gogh’s personal life, with a selection of letters. Works from his last year are shown on the third floor, as well as works by later artists who were influenced by him. The main entrance is through the Exhibition Wing, which houses temporary exhibitions. Every Friday night the central hall is turned into a bar with lounge chairs and DJs.

The curvaceous exhibition wing of the Van Gogh Museum

Did You Know? Van Gogh claimed that all his work was “based to some extent on Japanese art”.

One of Van Gogh’s most famous works, Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles (1888), painted to cele­ brate his domestic stability at the Yellow House in the south of France

128

Must See

AN ARTIST’S LIFE Vincent van Gogh (1853–90), born in Zundert, began paint­ ing in 1880. He worked in the Netherlands for five years before moving to Paris, later settling in the south of France. After an argu­ ment with Gauguin, he cut off part of his own ear and his mental instability forced him into an asylum in Saint­ Rémy. He sought help in Auvers, where he shot himself, dying two days later.

Visitors milling around the entrance hall of the Van Gogh Museum

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STEDELIJK MUSEUM EXPERIENCE Museum Quarter

 C9 ⌂ Museumplein 10 v 2, 3, 5, 12 # 10am–6pm daily ∑ stedelijk.nl

Built to house a collection left to the city by Sophia de Bruyn in 1890, the Stedelijk Museum became the national museum of modern art and design in 1938, displaying works by artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Mondriaan, Chagall and Cézanne, and designers including Rietveld, Wirkkala and Sottsass. The museum is housed in two contrasting spaces. The Neo-Renaissance main building was designed by A W Weissman (1858–1923) in 1895. The façade is adorned with turrets and gables and with niches containing statues of artists and architects, including Hendrick de Keyser (p37) and Jacob van Campen, architect

of the Koninklijk Paleis (p79). The Stedelijk’s modern addition – the Benthem Crouwel Wing – opened in 2012. The giant “bathtub” appears to float, given its continuous glass walls at ground level; it remains a love-it-orloathe-it addition to the city’s architecture. Inside, both spaces are ultramodern, providing the perfect backdrop for the museum’s 90,000 modern and contemporary artworks. The collection represents virtually every artistic movement of the 20th and 21st centuries, including examples of the De Stijl,

The futuristic Benthem Crouwel Wing – or the “bathtub” – illuminated in the evening

1988 Three paintings by Van Gogh, Jongkind and Cézanne were stolen from the museum.

Must See

TOP

5

PERMANENT ARTISTS ON DISPLAY

Willem de Kooning (1904–97) This Dutch abstract expressionist often focused on the female figure. Kazimir Malevich (1878–1935) Russian founder of Suprematism, an abstract movement which experimented with colour. Jean Tinguely (1925–1991) The swiss sculptor crafted humorous, moving sculptures. The Fiddler (1912–13), by Marc Chagall (1887– 1985), was isnpired by the artist’s memories of St Petersburg and his new surroundings in Paris

Pop Art and CoBrA groups. It also houses a small group of works by Post-Impressionists, including Van Gogh and Cézanne, to highlight the late 19th century. The museum holds collections from present-day artists in a larger exhibition space, with a restaurant and a terrace overlooking Museumplein. The museum also stages performances and film screenings.

Karel Appel (1921–2006) A Dutch member of the short-lived, experimental CoBrA movement. Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (1880–1938) The German Expressionist was inspired by the art of early African and Asian cultures.

The light and airy space that houses the museum’s shop

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EXPERIENCE MORE 4" Moco Museum

5"' Concertgebouw

 D8 ⌂ Honthorststraat 20 v 1, 2, 5, 7, 12, 19 4 Stadhouderskade # 9am–9pm daily, check website for later openings ∑ mocomuseum.com

 C9 ⌂ Concertgebouw­ plein 10 v 2, 3, 5, 12 # Box office: 1–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun ∑ concertgebouw.nl

The exterior of this beautiful 20th-century mansion, designed by Eduard Cuypers, the nephew of P J H Cuypers (p36), belies the groundbreaking collection housed inside. Carefully curated by private collectors, the groundbreaking Modern Contemporary (Moco) Museum displays pieces by artists who expose the irony at work in modern society. The museum aims to show visitors what cannot be seen anywhere else. The collection includes 50 original works by the notorious street artist Banksy (p34). The British activist’s indoor pieces are far less exposed than his usual murals and make for an interesting contrast when compared to his guerrilla works. A few of Banksy’s murals that were rescued from buildings before they were destroyed are also on display here.

INSIDER TIP

Rollerblading in Vondelpark

Following an open architectural competition held in 1881, A L van Gendt (1835–1901) was chosen to design a vast new concert hall for Amsterdam. The resulting Neo-Renaissance building boasts an elaborate pediment and colonnaded façade, and houses two concert halls. Despite Van Gendt’s lack of musical knowledge, he managed to produce nearperfect acoustics in the Grote Zaal (main concert hall), which is renowned the world over. The inaugural concert at the Concertgebouw was held on 11 April 1888, complete with an orchestra of 120 musicians and a choir of 600. Though primarily designed to hold concerts, the building has become multifunctional; it has played host to exhibitions, political meetings and occasional boxing matches. Take a guided tour at 5pm on Monday (May–September)

Don rollerblades for a different way of exploring Vondelpark’s network of cycle paths. Rent wheels or book a training session with Skate Dokter (www. skatedokter.nl).

or Friday or 12:30pm on Sunday to hear about the secret history of the building. For the best experience, visit on a Wednesday and take the 1:30pm tour after enjoying a free concert (not available in July and August).

6\VondelCS  C8 ⌂ Vondelpark 3 v 1, 3, 5, 11, 12 ∑ vondel park3.nl

Vondelpark’s pavilion opened in 1881 as a restaurant and café. A flamboyant, NeoRenaissance-style building, it was the favourite haunt of Amsterdam’s bohemian crowd,

The ornate Neo-Renaissance façade of Concertgebouw bathed in sunlight

Cyclists taking a rest beside the lake in Vondelpark

and its salons often featured contemporary art exhibitions. After World War II, the pavilion became a cultural centre and from 1972 it was the home of the Filmmuseum, which became the EYE (p183). The pavilion reopened in 2014 as VondelCS, and is now home to AVROTROS, one of the Netherlands’ public broadcasting corporations. It hosts talk shows, concerts and debates on culture and current affairs. The ground floor of the pavilion is a caférestaurant called Vondelpark3.

They used vistas, pathways and ponds to create the illusion of a large natural area, which was opened on 15 June 1865 as the Nieuwe Park. The park’s present name was adopted in 1867, when a statue of Dutch poet Joost van den Vondel was erected here. The committee soon began to raise money to enlarge the park, and by June 1877 it had reached its current dimensions of 47 ha (116 acres). The park now supports around 100 plant species and 127 types

of tree. Squirrels, hedgehogs, ducks and garden birds mix with a huge colony of greedy, bright-green parakeets, which gather in front of the pavilion every morning to be fed. Herds of cows, sheep, goats and even a lone llama graze in the pastures. Vondelpark welcomes more than ten million visitors a year. Free concerts are given by openluchttheater (open-air theatre), and musicians play at the bandstand in the summer.

JOOST VAN DEN VONDEL

7 Vondelpark  A9 ⌂ Stadhouderskade v 1, 2, 3, 5, 11, 12 # Openair theatre: Jun–last week Aug: Wed–Sun ∑ openlucht theater.nl

In 1864, a group consisting of prominent Amsterdammers formed a committee with the aim of founding a public park, and they raised enough money to buy 8 ha (20 acres) of land. J D and L P Zocher, a fatherand-son team of landscape architects, were then commissioned to design the park.

Joost van den Vondel (1587– 1679) was to Dutch poetry and drama what Rembrandt was to painting. Many of his history plays, like Gijsbrecht van Amstel, first performed in 1638, and Joannes de Boetgezant (1662), were hailed as masterpieces. After converting to his wife’s Catholic faith, he became an advocate of religious tolerance. That made him unpopular with hardline Calvinists and, despite his fame, he died an impoverished man.

EXPERIENCE Museum Quarter

Café tables on Museumplein in front of Coster Diamonds

8'= Coster Diamonds  D8 ⌂ Paulus Potterstraat 2–6 v 2, 5, 12 # 9am– 5pm daily ∑ coster diamonds.com

Coster was founded in 1840. Twelve years later, Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert, gave the company the task of repolishing the enormous Koh-i-Noor (mountain of light) diamond. This blue-white stone is one of the treasures of the British crown jewels and weighs in at

108.8 carats. A replica of the coronation crown, with a copy of the fabulous stone, is found in Coster’s entrance hall. More than 6,000 people visit the factory each week to witness the processes of grading, cutting and polishing the stones. Goldsmiths and diamond-cutters work together to produce customized items of jewellery, which are available over the counter. For serious diamond-buyers, such as the jewellers who come to Amsterdam from all over the world, there is a series of private sales rooms where

AMSTERDAM’S MILITIA COMPANIES The Dutch schutterij (militia companies) were formed in medieval times. Armed with bows, the forces’ purpose was to protect towns from attack and revolts. By the 17th century, they carried muskets, but their role had become ceremonial. Captains had to be wealthy, as they equipped volunteers out of their own purse. They commissioned portraits and Rembrandt’s The Guard Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq and Lieutenant Willem Ruytenburch – known as The Night Watch – is the most famous. A statue of the painting is found in Rembrandtplein .

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discretion is assured. A few doors down is a small museum, in which the history of the diamond is traced.

9"Hollandsche Manege  B8 ⌂ Vondelstraat 140 v 2 # 10am–5pm daily ¢ 2 weeks in Aug (see web­ site for details) ∑ levend paardenmuseum.nl

The Dutch Riding School was originally situated on the Leidsegracht (p116), but in 1882 it moved to a new building on Vondelstraat. Designed by A L van Gendt, it was based on the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. The Hollandsche Manege was threatened with demolition in the 1980s, but fortunately it was saved after a public outcry. Reopened in 1986 by Prince Bernhard, it has been restored to its former glory. The Neo-Classical indoor arena boasts gilded mirrors and moulded horses’ heads on its elaborate plasterwork walls. Some of the wroughtiron stalls remain and sound is muffled by sawdust. At the top of the staircase, one door leads to a balcony overlooking the arena, another to the café.

10 Vondelkerk  B8 ⌂ Vondelstraat 120 v 2

The Vondelkerk was the largest church designed by P J H Cuypers (p36). Work began on the building in 1872, but funds ran out by the follo­ wing year. Money from public donations and lotteries allowed it to be completed by 1880. When fire broke out in 1904, firefighters saved the nave of the church by forcing the burning tower to fall away into Vondelpark. A new tower was added later by the architect’s son, J T Cuypers. The church was deconsecrated in 1979 and converted into offices in 1985. It hosts concerts and events.

EAT Cobra Café

Famous for its apple pie, Cobra also serves pan­ cakes and other snacks, such as croquettes.  D8 ⌂ Hobbemastraat 18 ¢ D ∑ cobracafe.nl ¡¡¡

Proeflokaal ‘t Blauwe Theehuis

This Vondelpark land­ mark serves snacks, pizzas and a range of IJ beers (p171).  B8 ⌂ Vondelpark 5 ∑ blauwetheehuis.nl ¡¡¡

Momo

This stylish bar­cum­ restaurant offers sushi or set menus of ten dishes.  D8 ⌂ Hobbemastraat 1 ∑ momoamsterdam.com ¡¡¡

The fairy­tale Vondelkerk, which stands at the edge of Vondelpark

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A SHORT WALK

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest tram 2, 3, 5, 12 (Rijksmuseum) Time 15 minutes The modern exterior of the Van Gogh Museum

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The green expanse of Museumplein was once bisected by a busy main road known locally as the “shortest motorway in Europe”. Dramatic renovation between 1996 and 1999 transformed it into a stately park, fringed by Amsterdam’s major cultural centres. Traverse one of the wealthiest districts in the city, with wide streets lined with grand houses. After the heady delights of the museums, why not windowshop at the upmarket boutiques along the exclusive PC Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat, or watch the diamond polishers at work in Coster Diamonds?

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Housing the civic collection of modern art, the Stedelijk Museum also stages controversial contemporary art exhibitions. A wing named the “bathtub” holds temporary exhibitions (p130).

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Designed by A L van Gendt, the Concertgebouw has a Classical façade and near-perfect acoustics (p132).

This wing of the Van Gogh Museum, an elegant oval shape, was designed by Kisho Kurokawa and opened in 1999. It was enlarged in 2015 to create a new entrance hall (p128).

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Diamonds have been cut, polished and sold at Coster Diamonds since 1840. The firm now occupies three splendid adjoining villas, built on Museumplein in 1896 (p134).

MUSEUM QUARTER

Locator Map For more detail see p122

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The heavily ornamented Neo-Renaissance Rijksmuseum holds the magnificent Dutch national art collection of paintings, applied art and historical artifacts.

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Pond/ice rink The Rijksmuseum is surrounded by beautiful gardens filled with statuary. As well as 19th-century bronzes, you will find modern works made from surprising materials here.

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Flowers hanging in the Bloemenmarkt

EASTERN CANAL RING Stretching to the south and west of the Amstel river, this area lies wholly beyond the line of the medieval city wall. From the 1660s, the Grachtengordel was extended further east towards the Amstel, and Reguliersgracht, one of Amsterdam’s prettiest canals with its seven bridges, was cut at this time. These new stretches of canal became lined with merchants’ mansions in the 17th century (p54), such as the Museum Van Loon. Beyond this section of the canal ring is the 19th-century De Pijp, a working-class district built to relieve the overcrowded Jordaan. De Pijp was constructed as quickly and cheaply as possible, resulting in almost identical four-storey houses, each with three windows and capped with a white roof and lifting bar. The affordability of the area attracted students, immigrants and artists – including Mondriaan. This population brought with it different cultures and exotic foods, lending the Eastern Canal Ring a lively, magnetic multiculturalism. 139

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MUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN  G6 ⌂ Herengracht 605 v 4, 14 # 10am–5pm daily ¢ 27 Apr ∑ willetholthuysen.nl

A visit to Amsterdam wouldn’t be complete without exploring one of the city’s iconic canal houses. Named after its last residents, the Museum Willet-Holthuysen allows the visitor a glimpse into the lives of the emerging merchant class who lived in luxury along the Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) in the 17th century. Three floors, and the formal garden, are open to the public. The house was built in 1685 for Jacob Hop, mayor of Amsterdam. It became the property of coal magnate Pieter Holthuysen (1788– 1858) in 1855. It then passed to his daughter Louisa (1824–95) and her husband, Abraham Willet (1825–88), who were both fervent collectors of paintings, glass, silver and ceramics. When Louisa died childless and a widow in 1895, the house and its many treasures were left to the city on the condition that it became a museum bearing their names. Room by room, the house is being restored and brought back to the time Abraham and Louisa lived here. Arguably, the most interesting part of the house is found below stairs. Special exhibits illuminating the lives of the Willet-Holthuysens’ servants are displayed on the lower floor.

When Louisa died childless and a widow in 1895, the house and its many treasures were left to the city on the condition that it became a museum bearing their names.

The grand façade of the Museum Willet-Holthuysen

The dining room decorated with a copy of the 18th-century silk wallpaper

The gentlemen’s parlour, hung with opulent, heavy blue damask

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Must See

The Museum WilletHolthuysen’s rooms, ranging from a functional kitchen in the basement to a frivolous collector’s room on the first floor

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EXPERIENCE Eastern Canal Ring

2"-= Foam Museum  F7 ⌂ Keizersgracht 609 v 24 q Vijzelgracht # 10am–6pm Sat–Wed, 10am–9pm Thu & Fri ¢ 27 Apr ∑ foam.org

Three elegant 17th-century canal houses on the Keizersgracht have been joined together and beautifully renovated to create this labyrinth of modern rooms filled with photographs. Over 20,000 visitors flock here annually, making it the mostvisited photography museum in the Netherlands by far. Foam (Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam) is dedicated to exhibiting and celebrating every form of photography, from historical to journalistic, cutting-edge to artistic. The museum has an international outlook – photographs exhibited here are taken all over

the world by photographers from a variety of cultures and ethnic backgrounds. The museum holds four major exhibitions a year and 15 smaller ones, showcasing both established figures of the art form and emerging local talent. Exhibitions at Foam have included Annie Leibovitz’s “American Music”, a retrospective on Henri Cartier-Bresson and “50 Years of World Press Photo”. More than just a museum, though, Foam prides itself on being an interactive centre for photography, a place where amateurs can learn more about the art by meeting professionals, attending lectures and taking part in discussion evenings, or just stop for a coffee and a browse of the well-stocked bookshop. Foam also hosts pop-up exhibitions in different neighbourhoods to make photography accessible to all.

EAT Warung Spang Makandra

Tuck into huge portions of nasi (Javanese rice), Indian roti or brown beans and rice – Suriname’s national dish.  E9 ⌂ Gerard Doustraat 39 ∑ spangmakandra.nl ¡¡¡

Restaurant de Waaghals

This organic vegetarian restaurant serves imaginative dishes.  E9 ⌂ Franshalsstraat 29 ¢ L ∑ waaghals.nl ¡¡¡

Vlaardingse Haringhandel

Locals rate the creamy raw herring served here, in a bun with pickles and onions.  E9 ⌂ Albert Cuypstraat 89 ¢ Sun & D ¡¡¡

Outdoor exhibition organized by the Foam Museum

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Colourful houses overlooking the Blauwbrug

3\ Amstelkerk  G7 ⌂ Amstelveld 10 § 520 0060 v 4 # 9am– 5pm Mon–Fri ¢ Public hols

Designed by Daniel Stalpaert in 1668, the squat and wooden Amstelkerk was originally built as a temporary structure, while in the meantime money was going to be raised for a large new church that would be located on the Botermarkt (now Rembrandtplein). Unfor­ tunately, the necessary funds for the grand scheme were never forthcoming, and so the temporary Amstelkerk had to be kept and maintained. In 1825, the Protestant church authorities attempted to raise money to at least renovate the Amstelkerk’s plain interior in a Neo­Gothic style. It was not until 1840, however, when Frederica Elisabeth Cramer donated 25,000 guilders to the project, that work could begin. During the late 1980s, the Amstelkerk underwent a substantial conversion, which cost some 4 million guilders.

Glass­walled offices were installed inside the building and it was closed to the public. However, concerts are still held in the nave, which was preserved in all its Neo­Gothic magnificence. The top­class brasserie NeL is housed in a side building.

4 Blauwbrug  G6 ⌂ Amstel v 14 q Waterlooplein

The Blauwbrug (Blue Bridge) is thought to have taken its name from the colour of the wooden bridge that originally crossed this particular stretch of the Amstel river in the 17th century. Made of stone, the present light­grey bridge was built in preparation for the 1883 World Colonial Exhibition, which attracted thousands of visitors to Amsterdam. Exhibitors came from 28 different nations. The Blauwbrug is decorated with sculptures of medieval boats, fish and the imperial crown of Amsterdam and is

The real reason to head to Albert Cuypstraat is for its mouthwatering street food. The sound of frying fills the air and your nose will be assaulted by the scents of dishes from around the globe.

surmounted by ornate lamps. The design was inspired by the plans for the elaborate Alexander III bridge in Paris.

5 Albert Cuypmarkt  F9 ⌂ Albert Cuypstraat v 3, 4, 12, 24 q De Pijp # 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat ∑ albertcuyp-markt. amsterdam

The market running along De Pijp's Albert Cuypstraat began trading in 1904, shortly after the expansion of the city. The wide street, once a canal, is named after the Dutch land­ scape painter Albert Cuyp (1620–91). This wide street is lined with colour­popping stalls. Described by the stallholders as “the best­known market in Europe”, it attracts some 20,000 visitors on weekdays and often twice as many on Saturdays. Vendors sell everything you would expect from a Dutch market – fresh fish, poultry, cheese, fruit and clothes – but the real reason to head to Albert Cuypstraat is for its mouthwatering street food. The sound of frying fills the air and your nose will be assaulted by the scents of dishes from around the globe. 145

EXPERIENCE Eastern Canal Ring

A row of floating stalls at the Bloemenmarkt

6 Bloemenmarkt

7"'Museum Van Loon

 F6 ⌂ Singel v 4, 14, 24 q Rokin # 9:30am– 5pm daily

 F7 ⌂ Keizersgracht 672 v 24 q Vijzelgracht # 10am–5pm Wed–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ museumvanloon.nl

On the Singel, west of Muntplein, is the last of the city’s floating markets. In the past, nurserymen sailed up the Amstel from their small­ holdings and moored here to sell cut flowers and plants directly from their boats. Today, the stalls are still floating but are now a perm­ anent fixture. Despite the sellers’ tendency to cater purely for tourists, with prices reflecting this, the displays of fragrant seasonal flowers and bright spring bedding plants are always beautiful to look at.

Designed by Adriaan Dortsman, No 672 Keizers­ gracht is one of a pair of symmetrical houses built in 1672. The first resident was the painter Ferdinand Bol, a pupil of Rembrandt. In 1884, the Van Loon family moved into the house. The Van Loons were one of Amsterdam’s foremost families in the 17th century. The house was opened as a museum in 1973, after many years of restoration,

TULIP MANIA Tulip mania seized Amsterdam in the 1630s. The exotic Asian bulbs tempted investors and their value soared. At the height of the craze, a single rare bulb could cost more than 10,000 guilders – as much as a grand canal-side townhouse. Tempted by the chance to get rich quick, even ordinary folk invested their savings in the flowers, only to lose them when the bubble inevitably burst and prices collapsed in 1637.

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retaining the original charming character of the house. It contains a collection of Van Loon family portraits, stretching back to the early 1600s. The period rooms are adorned with fine pieces of furniture, porcelain and sculpture. Some of the upstairs rooms contain sumptuous illusionistic wall paintings, popular in the 17th and 18th centuries. Four were painted by the Classicist artist Gérard de Lairesse (1641–1711). Outside, in the formal rose garden, is the 18th­century coach house, housing the Van Loon family coaches and livery worn by the servants.

8" Heineken Experience  F9 ⌂ Stadhouderskade 78 v 1, 7, 19, 24 q Vijzelgracht # 10:30am– 9:30pm daily; last tickets at 7:15pm ∑ heineken experience.com

Gerard Adriaan Heineken founded the Heineken company in 1864 when he bought the 16th­century

Hooiberg (haystack) brewery on the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. The original Stadhouderskade building was erected in 1867. His readiness to adapt to new methods and bring in foreign brewers established him as a major force in Amsterdam’s

profitable beer industry. In 1988, the company finally stopped producing beer in its massive brick brewery on Stadhouderskade, as it was unable to keep up with the demand. Production is now concentrated in two brew­ eries, one in Zoeterwoude, near Den Haag, another in Den Bosch. Today, Heineken produces around half of the beer sold in Amsterdam, has production facilities in dozens of countries and exports all over the world. The Stadhouderskade building now houses the Heineken Experience, where visitors can learn about the history of the company and beer­making in general, and enjoy a free tasting. Extensive renovations accommodate the increasing number of visitors. There is also a tasting bar, mini brewery and a stable offering the opportunity to view Heineken’s splendid dray horses – you may be lucky enough to see them trotting around Amsterdam. Visitors under the age of 18 must be accompanied by an adult.

STAY Hotel Dwars

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Hotel V Frederiksplein

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Beer wagon displayed at the Heineken Experience

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Magere Brug is illuminated at night by strings of lights

9"' Pathé Tuschinski  F6 ⌂ Reguliersbree­ straat 26–28 § 0900 1458 v 14, 24 q Rokin # Box office: 12:15–10pm daily  

Abraham Tuschinski’s cinema and variety theatre caused a sensation when it opened in 1921. Until then, Amsterdam’s cinemas had been sombre places, but this building was an exotic blend of Art Deco and Amsterdam School architecture (p37). Its twin towers are 26 m (85 ft) in height. Built in a slum area known as the Duivelshoek (Devil’s Corner), the theatre was designed by Heyman Louis de Jong and decorated by Chris Bartels, Jaap Gidding and Pieter den Besten. In its heyday, Marlene Dietrich and Judy Garland performed here. Now converted into a sixscreen cinema, the building has been meticulously restored, both inside and out. The carpet in the entrance hall, replaced in 1984, is an exact copy of the original. For just a few extra euros, you can take a seat in one of the 148

INSIDER TIP

Watch a Film at Pathé Tuschinski A guided tour of the theatre is certainly recommended, but to appreciate the full opulence of the Pathé Tuschinski, see a film in the main auditorium.

exotic boxes that make up the back row of the huge semicircular, 1,472-seater main auditorium.

0'-= Stadsarchief Amsterdam  F7 ⌂ Vijzelstraat 32 v  24 # 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ Public hols ∑ amsterdam.nl/ stadsarchief

The Stadsarchief, which houses the city’s municipal archives, has moved from its former location in Amsteldijk to this monumental building. Designed by K P C de Bazel,

The ornate faÇade of the Pathé Tuschinski

who was one of the principal representatives of the Amsterdam School, the edifice was completed in 1926 for the Netherlands Trading Company. In spite of multiple renovation works, the building retains many attractive original features, such as the colourful floor mosaics (designed by De Bazel himself) and the wooden panelling in the boardrooms on the second floor. There is a permanent display of treasures from the archives in the building’s monumental vaults. In 1991 the building, which is affectionately known as “The Bazel”, was declared a national monument. Guided tours take place at 2pm on Sundays.

11 Magere Brug  G7 ⌂ Amstel v 4

Of Amsterdam’s 1,200 or so bridges, the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) is undoubtedly the city’s best known. The original drawbridge was constructed in about 1670.

HOW THE MAGERE BRUG WORKS The Magere Brug is a double-leaf-style drawbridge. This means that it continuously balances its span of 5 m (16 ft) on each side throughout its swing. The balance is made up of two counterweighted beams. The arched wooden portal provides a pivot for the balance and a mechanical chain drive operates the steel cables that cause the bridge to lift up. The Magere Brug when open for boats

The traditional story has it that it was named after two sisters called Mager, who lived on either side of the Amstel. However, it appears more likely that the bridge acquired the name from its narrow (mager) design. At night many lights illuminate the bridge. The drawbridge was widened in 1871 and most recently rebuilt in 1934, though it still conforms to the traditional double-leaf style. The bridge is made from

African azobe wood, and was intended to last for at least 50 years. In 1929, the city council considered whether to demolish the old frame, which had rotted. After huge outcry, it was decided to keep the original. Since 2003 traffic has been limited to bicycles and pedestrians. The bridge master used to come around on his bike several times a day to open the bridge, but nowadays this is all managed from a central control room. 149

A SHORT WALK

AMSTELVELD

EXPERIENCE Eastern Canal Ring

Distance 2 km (1.5 miles) Nearest metro Waterlooplein Time 20 minutes

The eastern end of the Grachtengordel is quiet and largely residential, especially around the Amstelveld, with its pretty wooden church and houseboats. A short walk will take you past shops and numerous cafés, particularly on the bustling Rembrandtplein. As you wander down the broad sweep of the Amstel river, Amsterdam suddenly loses its village atmosphere and begins to feel like a city.

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Looking on to the former Botermarkt (butter market) and the cast-iron statue of Rembrandt in Rembrandtplein are dozens of cafés dating from the 19th century, including the De Kroon at No 17. Café Schiller

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Catching up with friends under cherry blossom in Rembrandtplein

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The wooden Amstelkerk was meant to be a temporary structure while money was raised to build a big new church on Rembrandtplein, but the grand scheme fell through and this building became a permanent fixture. Today, the church houses offices and a restaurant (p145).

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Museum Willet-Holthuysen is a double canal house, which belonged to a 19th-century dynasty. Inside you’ll find a number of period rooms containing the family’s extensive collection of decorative art (p142).

EASTERN CANAL RING

The stone Blauwbrug, inspired by the Alexander III bridge in Paris, is adorned with sculptures on nautical and marine themes (p145).

At Amstel 216, the walls of the building still show the mysterious scribbles left by former resident Coenraad van Beuningen, city mayor in the mid-1600s.

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A red-shuttered building on Prinseneiland, the Western Islands

JORDAAN AND THE WESTERN ISLANDS A t the start of the 17th century construction of the Grachtengordel began, just west of the Singel canal. At the same time, city planner Hendrick Staets laid out the marshy area beyond Prinsengracht as an area for workers whose industries were banned from the town centre. Its network of narrow streets and oblique canals followed the course of old paths and drainage ditches. Immigrants fleeing religious persecution also settled here. It is thought that Huguenot refugees called the district jardin (garden), later corrupted to “Jordaan”. Historically a poor area, it is famous for its hofjes (almshouses), of which the Claes Claeszhofje is a fine early example. Further north are the characterful Western Islands, created in the mid-17th century to meet the demand for warehouses. 153

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EXPERIENCE MORE

EXPERIENCE Jordaan and the Western Islands

1" Houseboat Museum  D5 ⌂ Prinsengracht, opposite No 296 v 5, 7, 17, 19 # Sep–Jun: 10am–5pm Thu, Fri & Sun ¢ 1 & 2.5 weeks in Jan, 27 Apr, 1st Sat Aug, 25 Dec ∑ house boatmuseum.nl

Houseboats line the canals of Amsterdam, homes to people who prefer the alternative lifestyle of being afloat. Moored on the Prinsengracht canal on the edge of the Jordaan, the Hendrika Maria is a showcase of life aboard an Amsterdam houseboat. Built in 1914, it served as a barge and transported coal, sand and gravel until the 1960s, when it was converted into a houseboat. It is now the world’s only houseboat museum. When inside, visitors can make themselves at home. Note the tiny original kitchen with its green-enamel pots and pans, a hand-pump for water and cosy cupboard-beds, and then

take a seat in the surprisingly spacious living room, furnished in chintzy 1950s style, where coffee is served.

2 Claes Claeszhofje  D3 ⌂ 1e Eerste Egelantiersdwarsstraat v 5, 13, 17 # Occasionally

This is a group of hofjes, the earliest of which was founded in 1616 by a textile merchant,

Claes Claesz Anslo. Rescued from ruin in the 1960s by the Stichting Diogenes Foundation, the two sets of houses that comprise this hofje are now student lodgings. The houses are set around a beautiful little courtyard. One of the oldest surviving and most distinctive is the “Huis met de Schrijvende Hand” (house with the writing hand), at Egelantiersstraat 52. Once the home of a teacher, it dates from the 1630s.

DUTCH HOFJES Before the Alteration (p53), the Catholic Church usually provided subsidized housing for the poor and elderly, particularly women. During the 17th and 18th centuries, rich merchants and Protestant organizations took on this charitable role and built hundreds of almshouse complexes. Known as hofjes, these groups of pretty houses were planned around courtyards or gardens. By providing housing for the elderly and infirm, the hofjes marked the beginning of the Dutch welfare system. Visitors are admitted to some but are asked to respect the residents’ privacy. Many hofjes are found in the Jordaan and some still serve their original purpose.

The cosy lounge, Houseboat Museum

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EAT

De Star Hofje's beautiful garden

Balthazar's Keuken

The set menu here changes weekly and embraces seasonal produce, such as halibut in roast carrot sauce.  C5 ⌂ Elandsgracht 108 ∑ balthazarskeuken.nl ¡¡¡

Japanese Pancake World Amsterdam

This diner serves okonomiyaki (hearty Japanese-style pancakes) with shogayaki (beef, wild spinach and onion) toppings, among others.  D3 ⌂ Tweede Engelantiersgracht 24a ∑ japanesepancake world.com ¡¡¡

Café ‘t Smalle

A local favourite since 1780, this café serves a wide choice of salads, toasted sandwiches and baguettes filled with ham, cheese or steak. Stained-glass windows add a colourful touch.  D3 ⌂ Engelantiersgracht 12 ¢ D ∑ t-smalle.nl ¡¡¡

3 De Star Hofje  E3 ⌂ Prinsengracht 89–133 v 3, 5, 13, 17 @ 18, 21, 22 # 6am–6pm Mon–Fri, 6am–2pm Sat

De Star Hofje’s lovely flower garden makes it one of the prettiest of the district’s hofjes, and unique lanterns with a royal crown on each add to

the charm. The hofje consists of a courtyard surrounded on three sides by houses with a water pump in the middle. It gets its name from the Star Brewery, which stood here until the hofje was built in 1804. Officially known as Van Brienen Hofje, legend has it that a merchant, Jan van Brienen, founded this almshouse in gratitude for his release from a vault in which he had been accidentally imprisoned. Since 1995, it has been owned by a housing foundation.

4 Zon’s Hofje  E3 ⌂ Prinsengracht 159– 171 v 3, 5, 7, 17 @ 18, 21, 22 # 10am–5pm Mon–Fri

Until it was turned into alms­ houses for elderly Mennonite widows, this was the site of a clandestine church. The Kleine Zon (little sun) was a splinter group of the Noah’s Ark congregation. Look for the carved sun (zon) under the 1765 clock in the courtyard. 157

Houseboats lining the Prinsengracht on a summer’s evening

EXPERIENCE Jordaan and the Western Islands

Relaxing under Westerpark’s blossom

5 Westerpark  B1 ⌂ Polonceaukade v 5 @ 21, 22, 48, 248 # Museum Het Schip: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Museum Het Schip: 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ westergasfabriek.com ∑ hetschip.nl

The wasteland that surrounds Amsterdam’s former gasworks (Westergasfabriek) was trans­ formed into a 14­ha (35­acre) green park in the early 2000s. Facilities include playgrounds, bars, restaurants, several performance spaces and the Ketelhuis cinema. The gas­ works itself has been rede­ veloped and hosts music and food festivals, a variety of performances and exhibitions.

Nearby is Het Schip (The Ship), one of the most iconic buildings by the Amsterdam School (p37). Designed by Michel de Klerk in 1919, this apartment block contains 102 homes and the Museum Het Schip, displaying a restored working­class house.

6"' Pianola en Piano Museum  D3 ⌂ Westerstraat 106 v 3, 5, 13, 17 # 11am– 5pm Sun & for concerts ∑ pianola.nl

Fifteen instruments and some 15,000 piano rolls are on show here, celebrating the automatic pianos that were introduced in 1900. There are regular

JOHNNY JORDAAN This statue by Kees Verkade depicts Johnny Jordaan (1924–89). Born in the Jordaan, Johannes Hendricus van Musscher became a star in the 1950s as a levenslied singer. This Dutch popular music, made up of catchy refrains, reflects on the many realities of life – songs can be sweet and light or bitter and dark. The city’s songbird, Jordaan had hits including “Geef mij maar Amsterdam” and “Bij ons in de Jordaan”.

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performances by pianists. Sadly, the museum faces closure as it might lose city council subsidies.

7 Haarlemmerpoort  D1 ⌂ Haarlemmerplein 50 v 3, 18, 21, 22 ¢ To the public

Originally a defended gate­ way into Amsterdam, the

By the entrance is a sculpture of three bound figures, inscribed: “Unity is Strength”. It commemorates the Jordaanoproer (Jordaan Riot) of 1934 over a reduction in social security. Haarlemmerpoort marked the beginning of the busy route to Haarlem. The current gateway, dating from 1840, was built for King William II’s triumphal entry into the city and officially named Willemspoort. However, as the third gateway to be built on or close to this site, it is still known as the Haarlemmerpoort by Amsterdammers. Designed by Cornelis Alewijn (1788–1839), the NeoClassical gatehouse was used as tax offices in the 19th century and was made into flats in 1986. Traffic no longer goes through the gate, since

a bridge has been built over the adjoining Westerkanaal. Beyond the Haarlemmerpoort is the peaceful Westerpark, a pleasant retreat.

8 Noorderkerk  E2 ⌂ Noordermarkt 44–48 v 3, 5, 13, 17 @ 18, 21, 22 # 10:30am– 12:30pm Mon & Sat ∑ noorderkerk.nl

Built for poor settlers in the Jordaan, the North Church was the first in Amsterdam to be constructed in the shape of a Greek cross. Its layout around a central pulpit allowed all in the encircling pews to see and hear well. The church was designed by Hendrick de Keyser (p37), who died in 1621, a year after building began. It was completed in 1623. The church is still well attended by a Calvinist congregation, and bears many reminders of the working-class origins of the Jordaan. By the entrance is a sculpture of three bound

figures, inscribed: “Unity is Strength”. It commemorates the Jordaanoproer (Jordaan Riot) of 1934 over a reduction in social security. On the south façade is a plaque recalling the strike of February 1941, a protest at the Nazis’ deportation of Jews. There are regular concerts held on Saturday afternoons.

SHOP Antiekcentrum Amsterdam

In a labyrinth of rooms, the biggest antique and curio market in the Netherlands sells everything from glassware and vintage jewellery to dolls.  C6 ⌂ Elandsgracht 109 # 11am–6pm Mon & Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun ∑ antiek centrumamsterdam.nl

A busy market in front of Noorderkerk

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The verdant Oosterpark, with its tranquil lake

PLANTAGE Known as the “plantation”, this area was once green parkland beyond the city wall, where 17th-century Amsterdammers spent their leisure time. The area was designated as a space for urban expansion in 1663, but economic crisis in 1672 meant that the government could not find enough buyers for the land. As a result, citizens could buy plots and a multitude of green spaces were the result. From about 1848, it became one of Amsterdam’s first suburbs and theatres and dance halls opened their doors. In the 19th century, many middle-class Jews prospered in the area, mainly in the diamond-cutting industry. They formed a large part of the Diamond Workers’ Union, whose headquarters were housed in De Burcht. The area also has a long maritime association. Following defeat in the First Anglo-Dutch War (p54), it was decided that the military ships needed to be better organized to protect the merchant fleet. In 1655, the government built a wharf on Kattenburg island for the military unit and a few years later an arsenal was added to the site. Since 1972, this building has housed the national maritime collection. Across the Nieuwevaart canal, a former thriving shipyard, dating from 1757, houses the Museum ‘t Kromhout. 163

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HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM  K5 ⌂ Kattenburgerplein 1 @ 22, 48 4 Nemo # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl

Once the arsenal of the Amsterdam Admiralty, this vast Classical sandstone building was constructed by Daniel Stalpaert in 1656 around a massive courtyard. The admiralty stayed in residence until 1973, when the building was converted into the Maritime Museum. A renovation project has returned the building to its former glory, and the former artillery courtyard now has a stunning glass roof.

The modern glass roof, inspired by navigational lines

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Museum Guide Visitors of all ages enjoy the museum’s interactive exhibitions and displays of mari­ time objects. Don’t miss the free audio tour. The open courtyard gives access to the three wings of the building, each with its own theme. Oost (East) has displays of maritime objects, paintings, globes and model yachts. In Noord (North), visitors can take a journey back to the 17th century using the latest virtual reality technology. Climb aboard the East Indiaman Amsterdam: haul up cargo, crawl through the hold and even fire a cannon. The West wing has interactive exhibits geared towards children, such as “Tale of the Whale”. Entrance to the courtyard, shop and café is free.

Must See 1 The museum has a fine collection of beautifully decorated model boats. It features examples of pleasure craft through the ages, from the 17th century to the present day. Each one is a work of art, with exquisitely painted details. 2 Antique nautical maps and modern globes are on display. 3 “Tale of the Whale” starts with the first whaling expeditions in the 16th century, when whales were thought to be fearsome sea monsters, and finishes with today’s efforts to preserve them from extinction.

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The museum sitting majestically in its watery surroundings, with the Amsterdam moored outside

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EXPERIENCE Plantage

INSIDER TIP

Take a Tour Tours often run on Sundays, or you can book a group tour for an insight into either the history of the building, and the meaning behind its decor, or the way different cultures experience love. The cavernous central hall reflecting the building’s grand beginnings

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Must See 2"'\-=

TROPENMUSEUM  L7 ⌂ Linnaeusstraat 2 v 7, 14, 19 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (daily during school hols) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ tropenmuseum.nl

This fascinating museum reflects the Netherlands’ colonial history, as well as the diversity of the country today. The displays of art objects, photographs and film focus on widely different cultures in the tropics and subtropics. Children should check out the interactive Tropenmuseum Junior. The Main Collection Built to house the Dutch Colonial Institute, this vast complex was finished in 1926 by architects M A and J J Nieukerken. The exterior of what is one of the city’s finest historic buildings is decorated with symbols of imperialism, such as stone friezes of peasants planting rice. In 1978, the Royal Tropical Institute opened this fascinating ethnographic museum. One floor holds treasures from Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and Southeast Asia. The collection aims to show the things that unite all cultures, from love to death. On the upper floors, the

The museum’s exterior, made from red brick

exhibitions explore diverse topics, including body art and Afrofuturism. Temporary exhibitions are held in the North Wing on the ground floor and the Park Hall on the second floor.

The intricate top of the Bisj Pole.

Tropenmuseum Junior The museum espouses the importance of children learning about different cultures. This exhibition allows kids to see, hear, smell and taste what it’s like to live in a different country. The destination changes every two and a half years. Until March 2023, children can learn about Suriname and its shared history with the Netherlands by taking a boat ride on Suriname’s waterways or dancing to traditional music.

Human figures stand on top of each other.

Carved to satisfy the spirits of cannibalized men, the Bisj Pole – a ritual totem from New Guinea, made from the root and trunk of a massive wild nutmeg tree

Made of wood and tree bark, the Pustaha (Book of Divinations) containing prescriptions applied by a Toba Batak village healer-priest in North Sumatra

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EXPERIENCE Plantage

EXPERIENCE MORE 3 Nationaal Holocaust Museum

4 Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

 J6 ⌂ Plantage Middenlaan 24 & 27 v 14 ¢ For renovation until 2022, check website for details ∑ jck.nl/en

 K3 ⌂ Piet Heinkade 1 v 26 ∑ muziekgebouw.nl

Part of the Jewish Cultural Quarter (p92), the Nationaal Holocaust Museum is situated in two buildings on Plantage Middenlaan. The Hollandsche Schouwburg, a former theatre, is now a memorial to the 104,000 Dutch Jewish victims of World War II. Thousands were detained here before being transported to concentration camps. Across the road is a former teacher training college, from where hundreds of Jewish children were smuggled out to safe places during World War II. Now, temporary and semi-permanent exhibitions delve deep into the personal histories of the victims and survivors of the Holocaust.

A huge glass box that juts into the IJ, this spectacular concert hall opened in 2005. Sharing its complex with the BIMHUIS, Amsterdam’s leading jazz venue, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ is versatile. It is capable of hosting both intimate chamber-music performances as well as large-scale concerts, with standing room for audiences of up to 1,500 people. As well as classical music, it features performances of everything from electro to world music. The building also runs an annual programme of contemporary art and photography exhibitions. Order tickets for the coming season online before 1 October for discounts of 20 to 35 per cent.

10,000 Windmills once dotted the Dutch landscape.

5 De Gooyer Windmill  M6 ⌂ Funenkade 5 v 7, 14 @ 22 ¢ To the public

Of the six remaining windmills within the city’s boundaries, De Gooyer, also known as the Funenmolen, is the most central. Dominating the view down the Nieuwevaart, the mill was built around 1725, and was the first cornmill in the Netherlands to use streamlined sails. It first stood to the west of its present site, but the Oranje Nassau barracks, built in 1814, acted as a windbreak, and the mill was then moved to the

The illuminated façade of Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ at dusk

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De Gooyer windmill, a quintessentially Dutch image

Funenkade. The octagonal wooden structure was rebuilt on the stone footings of an earlier water-pumping mill, demolished in 1812. By 1925, De Gooyer was in a very poor state of repair and was bought by the city council, which fully restored it. Since then, the lower part of the mill, with its neat thatched roof and tiny windows, has been a private home, though its massive sails still creak into action sometimes. Next to the mill is the Brouwerij Het IJ, one of several independent breweries in the city.

6"'-= Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam  J6 ⌂ Plantage Middenlaan 2 v 9, 14 q Waterlooplein # 10am– 5pm daily (Jul–Sep: until 9pm Thu) ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ dehortus.nl

Beginning life as a small apothecary’s herb garden in 1682, this green oasis in the centre of Amsterdam now boasts one of the world’s largest botanical collections.

Its range of flora expanded when tropical plants were brought back by the Dutch East India Company (p54). In 1706, it became the first place outside Arabia to succeed in cultivating the coffee plant. The medicinal herb garden has several species of plants that were available in the 17th century and are of great importance to medicine, such as Acorus calamus. The glassdomed Palm House, built in 1912, contains a collection of palms, conservatory plants and cycads, including one that is more than 400 years old. The restored orangery has a café and terrace, where art shows with a botanical theme are held. The Three-Climate Greenhouse, a glass-andaluminium construction, designed by Moshé Zwarts and Rein Jansma, was opened in 1993 to make room for the tropical, subtropical and desert plants. It is closed for renovation until 2023. There is also a butterfly house, with many species flying around, and a shop where you can purchase plants and gardening tools.

EAT Café Restaurant Plantage Dine in the leafy courtyard.

 J6 ⌂ Plantage Kerklaan 36 ∑ caferestaurant deplantage.nl ¡¡¡

Restaurant Stalpaert Het Scheepvaart­ museum’s café offers snacks and soups.

 K5 ⌂ Kattenburger­ plein 1 ∑ hetscheep vaartmuseum.com ¡¡¡

Bloem Eten en Drinken

Organic dishes are served on Bloem’s sunny waterside terrace.  K5 ⌂ Entrepotdok 36 ¢ Mon ∑ bloem36.nl ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Plantage

Resistance posters and memorabilia on display in the Verzetsmuseum

7 Holocaust Namenmonument  H6 ⌂ Weesperplantsoen v 4, 14 q Waterlooplein 4 City Hall ∑ holocaust namenmonument.nl

South of the Joods Historisch Museum, between the Nieuwe Heren and Nieuwe Keizersgracht, you’ll find the Holocaust Namenmonument, a memorial to more than 102,000 victims of the Holocaust who did not get a proper burial. Designed by Daniel Libeskind, it consists of walls made of thousands of bricks, each brick engraved with the name of a victim. These walls support four Hebrew letters, made from shiny stainless steel, forming the word “in memory of”.

8 Museum ’t Kromhout  L6 ⌂ Hoogte Kadijk 147 v 7, 14 @ 22 # 9:30am– 3:30pm Tue & 3rd Sun of month ∑ kromhout museum.nl

The Museum ‘t Kromhout is one of the oldest working shipyards in Amsterdam. Ships were built here as early as 1757. As ocean-going ships got bigger in the second half of the 19th century due to industrial developments, the yard, due to its small size, turned to building lighter craft for inland waterways. It is now used only for restoration and repair work. The museum is dedicated to the history of marine engineering, with engines, maritime photographs and a well-equipped, original forge. 172

9"'\Verzetsmuseum

told. The story begins via a time machine that transports visitors back to the 1940s.

 J6 ⌂ Plantage Kerklaan 61 v 14 # 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols ¢  1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ verzets museum.org

0\Entrepotdok

Located in a building that used to be the home of a Jewish choral society, the Resistance Museum holds a fascinating collection of memorabilia recording the activities of Dutch Resistance workers in World War II. It focuses on the courage of the 25,000 people actively involved in the movement. On display are false documents, film clips, slide shows, photographs, weaponry, equipment and personal items belonging to the workers. By 1945 there were over 300,000 people in hiding in the Netherlands, including Jews and anti-Nazi Dutch. Subsequent events organized by the Resistance, like the dockers’ strike against the deportation of the Jews (p55), are brought to life by exhibits showing where the refugees hid and how food was smuggled in. The museum includes a special children’s wing, Verzetsmuseum Junior, in which the real-life wartime experiences of children are

 K6 v 14 @ 22

The redevelopment of the old VOC (p54) warehouses at Entrepotdok has revitalized

this dockland area. It was the greatest warehouse area in Europe during the mid-19th century, being a customs-free zone for goods in transit. The quayside buildings of Entrepotdok are now a lively complex of offices, homes and eating places. Some of the original façades of the warehouses have been preserved, unlike the interiors, which have been opened up to provide an attractive inner courtyard. Café tables are often set out alongside the canal. On the other side, coloured houseboats are moored side by side, and herons doze at the water’s edge.

11 " \ - = Hermitage Amsterdam  H7 ⌂ Amstel 51 v 4, 14 q Waterlooplein g City Hall # 10am–5pm daily ¢  27 Apr ∑ hermitage.nl

The State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg, Russia, decided upon Amsterdam as the ideal city in which to

open an international satellite branch, which would display rotating temporary exhibitions drawn from the Hermitage’s rich and extensive collection. The Hermitage Amsterdam opened in early 2004, in a side wing of the Amstelhof (a former old people’s home), with a spectacular exhibition of fine Greek gold jewellery from the 6th to the 2nd centuries BC. Other exhibitions have included the collection of the last Tsars Nicholas and Alexandra, and the Portrait Gallery of the 17th century. The Amstelhof building, which overlooks the Amstel river, has been fully restored. The Hermitage Amsterdam has taken over the whole complex, with two exhibition wings, an auditorium and a children’s wing. Next door to the children’s wing is the Outsider Art Gallery, which features works by artists who haven’t had formal training. There is also a lovely caférestaurant on the first floor where visitors can enjoy an invigorating cup of tea or coffee, a tasty lunch or a refreshing glass of wine.

STAY Hotel Arena

With 139 rooms and suites, decorated in tones of grey and white, this hotel has views over Oosterpark and a pretty courtyard.  K8 ⌂ ‘s-Gravesandestraat 55 ∑ hotelarena.nl ¡¡¡

Hotel Rembrandt

This small hotel in a 19th-century merchant’s house has single, double and family-sized en-suite rooms. One has a copy of Rembrandt’s The Night Watch.  J6 ⌂ Plantage Middenlaan 17 ∑ hotelrembrandt.nl ¡¡¡

Portrait Gallery of the 17th century, Hermitage Amsterdam

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With its wide, tree-lined streets and painted, sandstone buildings, the Plantage is a graceful and often overlooked part of the city. Though it seems like a quiet part of town, there is a lot to see and do, with a diverse range of popular attractions which can get very busy on sunny days. The area, which is dominated by the Artis complex, has a strong Jewish tradition, and several monuments commemorate Jewish history in Amsterdam, including a basalt memorial in the Nationaal Holocaust Museum.

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Inspired by an Italian palazzo, De Burcht was the headquarters of the Dutch Diamond Workers’ Union.

Nationaal Holocaust Museum.

Little remains of the Hollandsche Schouwburg, a former theatre which is now part of the Nationaal Holocaust Museum (p170).

Part of the Artis zoo complex, Micropia is the world’s first museum dedicated to microbes and micro-organisms, with cutting-edge displays.

The domed Planetarium explores man’s relationship with the stars. Interactive displays show the positions of the planets.

Greenhouse at Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam

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PLANTAGE

Locator Map For more detail see p164

Visitors outside the ornate gates of the Artis Zoo

More than 900 species, including a pride of lions, live in the Artis zoo complex, which occupies a beautifully laid-out garden site.

Did You Know? Artis is short for Natura Artis Magistra, a Latin phrase meaning “Nature is the teacher of art”.

Artis restaurant

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NOORD Shipbuilders seeking space to build steel-hulled vessels moved to the north shore of the IJ river in the early decades of the 20th century. In 1946, two of the largest naval engineering companies merged to create Nederlandsche Dok en Scheepsbouw Maatschappij (NDSM)– the world’s biggest shipbuilding yard. Assembling cargo ships and giant tankers for oil companies, NDSM prospered until the recession of the 1970s, when demand for its ships vanished. The company went out of business in 1984, and, in the 1990s, artists squatted in the abandoned buildings. Made cool by this artistic occupation, the area north of the IJ attracted media and creative industries, including MTV Europe, and the former NDSM site is now the anchor of a district that is rapidly becoming an exciting new cultural hub. Nearby, the former Amsterdam headquarters of the Shell oil company – now known as A’DAM Toren – houses bars, restaurants and hotels with unparalleled views across the IJ. 177

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A’DAM TOREN EXPERIENCE Noord

 Q14 ⌂ Overhoeksplein 1 g Buiksloterweg @ 38 q Centraal Station # Daily; A’DAM Lookout: 10am–10pm daily ∑ adamtoren.nl

Unlike most cities, Amsterdam’s skyline is free of massive skyscrapers, so Amsterdammers look across the River IJ at the 100-m- (328-ft-) high A’DAM Toren with some affection. An icon of the post-industrial Noord, this multistorey colossus has become the city’s most exciting cultural complex. The 22-storey tower was built for oil giant Royal Dutch Shell in 1971 and acted as the company’s headquarters until 2009. Many locals still call it the “Shelltoren” (Shell tower). Reborn in 2016 after a massive refit, it is now packed with places to eat, drink, dance and shop, including Moon, a revolving restaurant (p183), as well as one of the city’s classiest hotels – Sir Adam. A high-speed elevator whisks visitors with tickets to A’DAM Lookout, on the 21st floor, which offers an unbeatable 360-degree view of Amsterdam. This is the perfect vantage point for photographers, particularly at sunset. Thrill-seekers, unsatisfied by the observation deck alone, can soar 100 m (328 ft) above the city on “Over the Edge”, a two-seater swing.

Did You Know? “Over the Edge” is the highest swing in Europe.

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Diners enjoying the views and food at Moon

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A’DAM Lookout Enjoy a cocktail at the rooftop bar or swing over the city. Moon This restaurant revolves to give diners unbeatable views of all angles of Amsterdam. Sir Adam A cool, boutique hotel, offering guests floorto-ceiling windows, espresso machines and a pillow menu.

Bicycles parked in front of repurposed shipping containers at NDSM

EXPERIENCE MORE

Shelter Contemporary art and dance music make up the curated programme of events at this club.

2'\-= NDSM

Madam This bar and eatery is on the 20th floor.

 P11 ⌂ Neveritaweg 61 ∑ ndsm.nl; Street Art Today: streetart.today

A’DAM Toren dominating the skyline of Noord and overlooking the River IJ

The giant factory building at the heart of the former NDSM shipyard (on the banks of the River IJ) has become the core of Amsterdam’s most vibrant cultural quarter. Some of the city’s hottest young creative talents live and work here in spaces created from vintage shipping containers. Those wanting to find out about NDSM’s history and future can take a guided tour of the complex and meet some of the “city nomads” who make this area buzz. Crammed with quirky shops and craft studios, bars, cafés, restaurants and nightspots, the complex also attracts visi­ tors with its festivals, dance events and exhibitions. It even has its own artificial beach – Pllek – where city slickers listen to live music, sunbathe, and practise yoga. In the summer months, Sunscreenings takes over the beach for its packed open­air cinema season. It seems appropriate that this colourful area is home to

STRAAT, the world’s largest street art museum, displaying works by street art artists from around the world. Don’t miss Brazilian Eduardo Kobra’s huge mural of Anne Frank, Let Me Be Myself on the exterior of the building. The artist used 500 cans of spray paint and 40 litres of gloss to complete the 240­sq­m (2,583­sq­ft) work. STRAAT " # 10 am–6pm Tue– Sun (until 9pm Fri) ∑ straatmuseum.com

STAY Clink NOORD

For the young, budgetconscious traveller, Clink offers friendly dorms. For those with more discerning tastes, it also has comfortable en-suite rooms.  Q14 ⌂ Badhuiskade 3 ∑ clinkhostels.com ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Noord All sorts of interesting items for sale at IJ-Hallen

3"-= IJ-Hallen  P11 ⌂ TT Neveritaweg 15 g NDSM Werf # 9am– 4:30pm 2nd weekend each month ∑ ijhallen.nl

For bargain hunters and shopping lovers this flea market is a must. Held in the cavernous IJ-Hallen, it is the largest in Europe. On a busy day, visitors might find as many as 750 stands at this colourful, bustling

site. Traders peddle everything from collectable vinyl to vintage clothing from bygone decades. There are also plenty of stalls selling snacks and drinks. Arrive early to find the best stock, but those who arrive later may find the best bargains. Between April and September the market is held outside, while for the rest of the year it moves indoors into the giant former warehouse building. Look out for the cool graffiti on the walls.

REGENERATION OF THE NORTH After the death of Noord’s shipbuilding industry, factories and warehouses stood empty for years. Regeneration gathered pace in the 21st century. Media and creative industries have replaced metal-bashing businesses and the first metro link to the city centre opened in 2018.

A’DAM Toren, a symbol of the regeneration of Noord

4-= Pekmarkt  R13 ⌂ Van der Pekstraat g Buiksloterweg # 11am– 5pm Wed, Fri & Sat ∑ pekmarkt.nl

Three days a week, Van der Pekstraat comes alive as a farmers’ market. Dozens of stalls sell all manner of goods, including craft cheeses, artisan breads and sizzling sausages. On Saturdays, art, vintage clothing and quirky fashion

EAT Restaurant Pllek

In a space created from upcycled shipping containers and other salvaged materials, Pllek is a food-and-drink hot spot.  P11 ⌂ TT Neveritaweg 59 ∑ pllek.nl ¡¡¡

Moon

The panorama in this revolving restaurant is spectacular. Menu treats are complemented by fine organic wines.

Café-Restaurant THT

Check out this lively cafécum-bar in the summer.  Q 14 ⌂ Tolhuistuin, Tolhuisweg 3 ∑ tht.nl ¡¡¡

Café Noorderlicht

This greenhouse is warm even in winter, when patrons are sheltered from the weather. During the summer months, there’s live music outside.

 Q 14 ⌂ Overhoeksplein 3 ∑ restaurantmoon.nl

 P11 ⌂ NDSM Plein 102 ∑ noorderlichtcafe.nl

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accessories are on sale alongside food and drink.

5"\-= EYE  Q14 ⌂  IJpromenade 1 g Buiksloterweg # Ticket office: 9:30am–10pm daily (until 11pm Fri & Sat); exhibitions: 10am–7pm daily ∑ eyefilm.nl/en

Located on the northern bank of the River IJ, the EYE

is a merger between the Filmmuseum, housed for almost 40 years in what is now VondelCS (p132), and several other Dutch cinematic organizations. The museum’s huge collection tells the story of the Netherlands film industry, from silent films at the end of the 19th century to advances in digital technology and 3D cinema today. There is also a wide display of movie memorabilia,

including photographs, soundtracks, technical equipment and posters. The museum has come a long way from its former 19th-century home in a park’s pavilion. The EYE now occupies a sleek white building that, unsurprisingly, is designed to resemble a giant eye. Inside are four cinemas, an exhibition space and a café-restaurant, with a waterside terrace that offers stunning views across the harbour on sunny days. In the basement, visitors can watch silent films from the museum’s vast collection in specially-designed viewing capsules, with three-seater sofas. A room also plays a 360-degree projection of film clips. Entrance to the basement is included in the cost of a cinema or exhibition ticket.

The distinctive EYE building

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A windmill in a tulip field in Noord-Holland

BEYOND AMSTERDAM Amsterdam is at the northern edge of a region known as the Randstad, the economic powerhouse of the Netherlands. Within easy reach of the capital are the ancient towns of Leiden and Utrecht, as well as Den Haag and Haarlem with their exceptional galleries and museums. The Randstad extends south as far as Rotterdam, a thriving modern city full of avant-garde architecture. North of Amsterdam, the traditional fishing communities that once depended on the Zuiderzee, before it was closed off from the sea in 1932, have now turned to tourism for their income. Much of the land here was reclaimed from the sea over the last 300 years, and the fertile soil is farmed intensively. Spreading to the southwest, dazzling colours carpet the fields in spring, and the exquisite gardens at Keukenhof are the showcase of the Dutch bulb industry. 185

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BEYOND AMSTERDAM Within an hour of Amsterdam lie bustling towns, grand palaces, quaint villages and dazzling bulbfields. Noord-Holland extends north of the city, along the North Sea, while to the south are the diverse sights of ZuidHolland, and the provinces of Utrecht and Gelderland in the southeast.

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EXPERIENCE Beyond Amsterdam

GETTING TO KNOW

NOORDHOLLAND The fertile Noord-Holland peninsula is dotted with pretty fishing villages and historic towns. While away an afternoon exploring the museums of Haarlem – the commercial capital of the region – or promenading along the coast. Best for

City and beach walks

Home to

Zuiderzee Museum, Haarlem

Experience

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The Markermeer aboard a wooden barge

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ZUID-HOLLAND

Best for

This province is dominated by two contrasting cities: futuristic Rotterdam and stately Den Haag. Pretty towns like Leiden and Delft – home to the ubiquitous pottery – offer a change of pace. But the real jewels of the south are the spectacular bulbfields north of Leiden, which bloom into a kaleidoscope of colours in spring.

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Sightseeing and floral displays Blooming bulbfields, Leiden, Den Haag, Delft and Rotterdam

Experience

Amazing views from Rotterdam’s Euromast

Best for

Founded in AD 47, Utrecht claims to be the oldest town in the Netherlands and dominates the region to which it gives its name. A spectacular Gothic spire towers over its historic centre, which is dotted with museums, medieval churches and historic buildings, like the 16th-century Catharijneconvent. But above all, Utrecht values its unique waterways: locals make the most of the 13thcentury wharves, lined with cafés, restaurants and bars, and a road has been converted back into a canal, recreating the original Singel moat around the historic centre.

Home to

Canal-side strolling

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UTRECHT

Museums and cathedral

Experience

A trip on the Orient Express with “Dream Journeys” at Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum, where a colourful cast of characters accompanies you on a “train ride” from Paris to Constantinople

GELDERLAND For visitors whose senses have been bombarded by the sights, sounds and smells of Amsterdam, the wide open spaces of rural Gelderland offer a welcome breath of fresh air. This is a region of lush pastures and broad expanses of moor and woodland, where birdsong, the buzz of bees and the scent of wild flowers create a very different sensory experience from Amsterdam’s urban hum. Drawn by this pastoral idyll, 17th- and 18th-century Dutch rulers endowed Gelderland with the magnificent palace that is this region’s most iconic attraction. Best for

Unspoiled countryside

Home to

Paleis Het Loo

Experience

A tour of the beautiful formal gardens of the Paleis Het Loo

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EXPERIENCE Beyond Amsterdam

ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM  U2 ⌂ Wierdijk, Enkhuizen; 50 km (31 miles) NE of Amsterdam £ Enkhuizen 4 Leaves from behind train station (Apr–Oct) # Indoor museum: 10am–5pm daily; Open-air museum: 10am–5pm Apr-Oct ∑ zuiderzeemuseum.nl

Step back in time at this fascinating open-air museum which recreates daily life in a traditional fishing village on the Zuiderzee – a bay of the North Sea – in the early 20th century. Enkhuizen was one of several villages around the edge of the Zuiderzee whose fishingbased economy was devastated when access to the North Sea was blocked by construction of the Afsluitdijk dam in 1932. The village’s

fortunes were revived with the opening of this museum complex. The binnenmuseum (indoor museum) focuses on the Zuiderzee history, including an impressive display of historic boats. The buitenmuseum (open-air museum) consists of rescued buildings, reconstructed to create a typical Zuiderzee village, with demonstrations of local crafts.

Marine Hall

The open-air museum, with its recreated houses and harbour

Traditional houses, lime kilns and modern boats at the museum Bottle-shaped lime kilns were used to burn shells to make quicklime.

Barges carry visitors to the open-air museum.

Did You Know? Herring is preserved by being smoked over smouldering woodchips.

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1 Modern Dutch culture is presented on Delft blue tiles at the Contemporary Delft installation by Hugo Kaagman.

The builders of this late 19th-century church disguised the organ in a cupboard to avoid a tax. Houses in this area are from Zoutkamp.

2 At the houses from Urk, daily life on the island in 1905, including washing clothes, is recreated by actors. 3 Housed in an old warehouse of the Dutch East India Company, the Marine Hall contains sailing and fishing boats.

A working windmill Visitors can sample delicious preserved herring here. In “Keeping House” a 1930s “housewife” describes her daily life over a cup of tea.

Houses from Urk

SAILING TRIPS Enjoy the calm inland waters of the IJsselmeer aboard a traditional vessel, such as Aaltje Engelina, a 22 m (72 ft) stevenaak (sailing boat), which offers accommodation for 12. If time is short, take a day trip or sunset cruise on the Markermeer aboard Zuiderzee, a traditional tjalk (sailing barge), with Zuiderzee Zeiltochten (p49).

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HAARLEM A prosperous city in the 17th century, Haarlem retains much of its original character, with its brick-paved lanes around the Grote Markt.

The Hoofdwacht is a 17th-century former guard house.

The Grote Markt is the bustling centre of the city.

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Haarlem had grown into a thriving cloth-making centre by the 15th century. Today, the city is the commercial capital of Noord Holland province. It is the centre of the Dutch printing, pharmaceutical and bulb-growing industries, but there is little sign of this in the delightful pedestrianized streets of the historic heart of the city. Most of the sites of interest are within easy walking distance of the Grote Markt, a lively square packed with old buildings, cafés and restaurants. Old bookshops, antique dealers and traditional food shops are all to be discovered in nearby streets.

2 Frans Hals Museum Hof (600m)

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 T3 ⌂ 20 km (12 miles) W of Amsterdam £ Haarlem n Grote Markt 2; visithaarlem.com

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1 The Teylers Museum’s two-storey Oval Hall was added in 1779, and contains glass cabinets full of bizarre minerals and cases of intimidating medical instruments. 2 The tree-lined Grote Markt square is bordered with busy pavement restaurants and cafés. It has been the meeting point for the townspeople for centuries.

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3 An iconic Haarlem landmark, Molen De Adriaan – a windmill on the river Spaarne – makes for a beautiful photograph at sunset.

Must See Statue of Laurens Jansz Coster (1370–1440) who is believed to have invented printing in 1423, 16 years before Gutenberg.

Illustration shows the historic centre of Haarlem

Did You Know?

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The Teylers Museum houses a collection celebrating science, technology and art.

The Vleeshal (1603) – an old meat market – is part of the Frans Hals Museum.

Shops and houses cling to the walls of the Grote Kerk. Inside, the church is dominated by a decorative organ with soaring pipes (1738), which drew many famous composers to Haarlem.

Statue of Haarlem-born Laurens Jansz Coster in the Grote Markt

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THE MAN WHO BUILT HAARLEM Haarlem’s historic centre bears the stamp of Lieven de Key (1560–1627). Originally from Ghent, he was commissioned as city architect in 1592. Much of Haarlem had been destroyed by fire in 1576, so he had a free hand to rebuild the city in Dutch Renaissance style, with features such as richly patterned red, black and white brickwork, decorative miniature spires and crow-step gables.

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1" Frans Hals Museum Hal

2"'\= Frans Hals Museum Hof

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⌂ Grote Markt 16 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sat; noon–5pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ franshals museum.nl

⌂ Groot Heiligland 62 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sat; noon–5pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ franshals museum.nl

Courtyard garden Enjoy a quiet moment in the beautiful Renaissance garden.

The heavily ornamented Vleeshal (a meat market) was built in 1603 by the city surveyor, Lieven de Key, and has a steep step gable that disguises the roof line. The extravagantly over-decorated miniature gables above each dormer window bristle with pinnacles. A giant painted ox’s head on the building’s façade signifies its original function. This hall, and the Verweyhal, a former gentlemen’s club from the 19th century, are venues for exhibitions hosted by the Frans Hals Museum Hof. The museum challenges contemporary artists to create work inspired by their collection of 17th-century art. The dialogue between the old and new works is surprising, with unexpected associations, as well as the expected differences between them.

Frans Hals (c 1582–1666) introduced a new realism into painting. While contemporary painters aimed for an exact likeness, Hals captured the character of his sitters through a more impressionistic technique. In his eighties, he still painted passionate portraits, such as Governesses of the Old Men’s Home (1664). The Old Men’s Home depicted in his painting became the Frans Hals Museum Hof in 1913. There is also a selection of paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries by other Haarlem artists. Each room displays works by contemporary artists alongside the Old Masters to show interesting points of contrast. The museum will be renovated in 2021 and some parts of the building might be closed off; check the website for details.

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THINGS TO SEE IN FRANS HALS MUSEUM HOF

Governors' Portraits Notable works by Hals: Governesses of the Old Men's Home (1664) and Governors of St Elisabeth Hospital (1641). Banquet of the Officers of the Civic Guard of St George (1616) Hals‘ group portrait brings to life members of this militia company. Portrait of Cornelia Claesdr Vooght (1631) Hals‘ Baroque-style painting of the wife of Nicolaes van der Meer, sheriff and guard officer. An Allegory on Tulip Mania (1640) Satire on the tulip mania by Jan Brueghel II.

The Verweyhal, part of the Frans Hals Museum

3" Museum Haarlem ⌂ Groot Heiligland 47 # Noon–5pm Mon & Sun, 11am–5pm Tue– Sat ¢ Public hols ∑ museumhaarlem.nl

St Elisabeth’s Gasthuis was built in 1610, around a pretty courtyard. A stone plaque carved above the main door­ way in 1612 depicts an invalid being carried off to hospital. After extensive restoration in the 1980s, this almshouse became Haarlem’s principal historical museum. Museum Haarlem focuses on the history of the city and its environs. Changing exhib­ itions connect the past with the present day.

4 Stadhuis ⌂ Grote Markt 2 § 14 023 # 11am–4pm Tue–Sat

Haarlem’s Stadhuis (town hall) has grown rather haphazardly over the centuries and is an odd mixture of architectural styles dating from 1250.

Grote Kerk, with its notable bell tower

The oldest part of the building is the beamed medieval banqueting hall, originally known as the Gravenzaal. Much of this was destroyed in two great fires in 1347 and 1351, but the 15th­ century portraits of the counts of Holland can still be seen. The wing of the town hall bordering the Grote Markt was designed by Lieven de Key in 1622. It is typical of Dutch Renaissance architecture, with elaborate gables and Classical features. In a niche above the main entrance is a plump allegorical figure of Justice, bearing a sword in one hand and scales in the other as she smiles benignly upon the pavement cafés in the market below. A free exhibition on the history of the city is on display in the vaulted cellars.

5" Grote Kerk ⌂ Grote Markt 22 # 10am– 5pm Mon–Sat (Jul & Aug: also noon–4pm Sun) ¢ Public hols ∑ bavo.nl

The enormous Gothic edifice of Sint Bavo’s great church, often referred to simply as the Grote Kerk, was a favourite subject of the 17th­century Haarlem School artists Pieter Saenredam

(1597–1665) and Gerrit Berckheyde (1638–98). Built between 1400 and 1550, the church and its ornate bell tower dominate the market square. The construction of a stone tower commenced in 1502, but the pillars started to subside. A new wooden tower, covered in lead, was erected in 1520. The church has a high, delicately patterned, vaulted cedarwood ceiling, white upper walls and 28 suppor­ ting columns. The intricate choir screen, as well as the magnificent brass lectern in the shape of a preening eagle, was made by master metal worker Jan Fyerens in about 1510. The choirstalls (1512) are painted with coats of arms, and the armrests and misericords are carved with caricatures of animals and human heads. Not far away is the simple stone slab covering the grave of Haarlem’s most famous artist, Frans Hals. The Grote Kerk boasts one of Europe’s finest and most flamboyant organs, built in 1738 by Christiaan Müller. In 1740 Handel tried the organ and pronounced it excellent. It also found favour with Mozart, who shouted for joy when he gave a recital on it in 1766. The organ is still in use for concerts.

Cycling through the endless tulip fields between Haarlem and Leiden

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THE BULBFIELDS  T3 £ Haarlem, Leiden

Occupying a 30-km (19-mile) strip between Haarlem and Leiden, the Bloembollenstreek is the main bulb-growing area in the Netherlands. The most cultivated bulbs in the Netherlands include gladioli, lilies, daffodils, hyacinths, irises, crocuses and dahlias, but tulips are still far and away the country’s most popular flower. When to Go From late January, the polders (land reclaimed from the sea) bloom with a series of vividly coloured bulbs, beginning with early crocuses and building to a climax around mid-April, when the tulips flower. Late-blooming flowers, such as lilies, extend the season into late May. Don’t be tempted to walk into the fields – it will damage the flowers. Aalsmeer This town is home to the world’s largest flower auction – the Bloemenveiling Royal FloraHolland. Over 12 billion cut flowers and pot plants are sold here annually in reverse auctions. The

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price decreases as the big-screen auction clock counts down and buyers stop the clock at any price point. Visitors can watch the proceedings from a viewing gallery above the trading floor.

Keukenhof Situated on the outskirts of Lisse, this garden was set up in 1949 as a showcase for Dutch bulb growers and is now planted with some 7 million bulbs. Keukenhof is at its most spectacular from late March to late May, when drifts of daffodils, hyacinths or tulips form. Japanese cherry trees shed snowy blossom early in the season, and there are splashes of azaleas and rhododendrons later in the year.

TOP FIVE DUTCH BULBS

Aladdin Tulips A lily-shaped flower, which has red petals with yellow tips. China Pink Tulips Delicate stems are crowned with vibrant pink flowers. Tahiti Daffodils Double-formed, goldenyellow petals nestle in a small orange centre. Minnow Daffodils A fragrant, miniature daffodil with creamcoloured blooms. Blue Jacket Hyacinths Striped petals form a cone of blue flowers, with a heady scent.

Carpets of tulips and grape hyacinths snaking through the Keukenhof gardens

A field carpeted with stripes of different coloured tulips in Lisse

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EXPERIENCE Leiden

LEIDEN  T3 ⌂ 35 km (22 miles) SW of Amsterdam £ Leiden Centraal n Stationsweg 26; www.visitleiden.nl

Leiden is famous for its university, the oldest and most prestigious in the Netherlands. During termtime, the streets are crowded with students cycling between lectures or packing the cafés and bookshops.

6 Museum Volkenkunde (900m)

Langebrug is lined with student accommodation. R U G G E B L A N

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The university was founded in 1575 by William of Orange (p53), a year after he relieved the town from a year-long siege by the Spanish. As a reward for their endurance, William offered the citizens of Leiden a choice: the building of a university or the abolition of tax. They chose wisely, and the city’s reputation as a centre of intellectual and religious tolerance was firmly established. English Puritan dissidents, victims of persecution in their homeland, were able to settle here in the 17th century before undertaking their epic voyage to the Americas. A number of exceptional museums document Leiden’s turbulent history, including the 17th century, when the town was a centre for worldwide trade. This age also saw the birth of the city’s most famous son – Rembrandt – in June 1606. Look for the wall plaque on the façade of his birthplace on Weddesteeg.

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A café on one of Leiden’s picturesque canals, which are lined with modern and 17th-century buildings

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Illustration shows the area around Pieterskerk in Leiden

Must See 1 The verdant Hortus Botanicus Leiden contains many beautiful features, such as this waterfall. 2 Artifacts from Ancient Greece are exhibited in the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden.

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3 The Rijksmuseum Boerhaave runs a programme of exhibitions, including this one on windmills.

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2 Museum de Lakenhal (750m)

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The university’s law faculty lies behind this Classical façade.

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John Robinson, pastor of the Pilgrim Fathers, lived in the Jan Pesijnshofje.

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EAT EXPERIENCE Leiden

Grand Café van Buuren

Soups, salads and mighty sandwiches, with fillings such as pulled chicken and avocado, feature on the lunch menu here. ⌂ Stationsweg 7 ∑ grandcafevan buuren.nl ¡¡¡

Crabbetje

This upscale seafood restaurant serves platters piled high with sole, lobster and oysters. ⌂ St Agatenstraat 5 ∑ visrestaurant crabbetje.nl ¡¡¡

1"Rijksmuseum Boerhaave ⌂ Lange St Agnietenstraat 10 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & pub hols (daily during school hols) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct & 25 Dec ∑ museum boerhaave.nl

This museum is named after the great Dutch professor of medicine, botany and chem­ istry, Herman Boerhaave (1668–1738). Its collections reflect the development of mathematics, astronomy, physics, chemistry and medicine. Items range in time from a 15th­century astrolabe and surgical equipment of yesteryear to the electron microscope.

Children looking down microscopes at the Rijksmuseum Boerhaave

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2"'-= Museum De Lakenhal ⌂ Oude Singel 28–32 # 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ lakenhal.nl

The Lakenhal (cloth hall) was the 17th­century headquarters of Leiden’s cloth trade. Built in 1640 in Dutch Classical style by Arent van ‘s­Gravesande, it now houses the municipal museum. One of the most famous works of art is Lucas van Leyden’s Renaissance triptych of The Last Judgment (1526–7), which was rescued from the city’s Pieterskerk during the religious struggles of 1566. A wing of the museum, which was built in the 1920s, offers an expansive silver collection, and exhibits covering the local weaving industry. Not to be missed is a big bronze hutspot, or cauldron, allegedly left behind by the Spanish when William of Orange broke the siege in 1574. At that time, the cauldron would have contained a wholesome spicy stew that the starving people ate. Tradi­ tionally this meal is cooked every year on 3 October, to commemorate Dutch victory over the Spanish (p53).

3"-= Hortus Botanicus Leiden ⌂ Rapenburg 73 # Apr– Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov– Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun ¢ 3 Oct & 24 Dec–1 Jan ∑ hortusleiden.nl

Leiden’s botanical garden was founded in 1590 as part of the university. Some of the varied trees and shrubs, including a 350­year­old laburnum, reflect the garden’s history. Today the Hortus Botanicus contains a modern recon­ struction of his original walled garden, called the Clusiustuin. Other visual delights include hothouses full of exotic orchids, rose gardens and an exquisite Japanese garden.

4" Pieterskerk ⌂ Pieterskerkhof 1a # 11am–6pm daily, unless special events are taking place, check website for details ¢ 3 Oct & 31 Dec ∑ pieterskerk.com

The magnificent Gothic church dedicated to St Peter was built in the 15th century in rose­pink brick, and stands in a leafy

Museum Volkenkunde, sitting on the canal

GREAT VIEW

De Burcht Sitting between two channels of the Rijn atop a grassy manmade mound, which is thought to be of Saxon origin, this citadel overlooks the town below. Climb this odd 12th-century fortress and peer over the crenelated battlements.

square surrounded by elegant houses. Pieterskerk was deconsecrated in 1971 and is now used as a community centre. The church is worth visiting for its austere interior and its magnificent organ, built by the Hagenbeer brothers in 1642 and enclosed in gilded woodwork. The floor of the nave is covered with worn slabs marking the burial places of 17th-century intellectuals like Puritan leader John Robinson and 17th-century artist Jan Steen. A long-term restoration project started in 2001 and discoveries made during this are displayed in the church.

5"-= Rijksmuseum van Oudheden ⌂ Rapenburg 28 # 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun (daily during school hols & special exhibitions) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct & 25 Dec ∑ rmo.nl

The Dutch museum of antiquities, established in 1818, is Leiden’s main attraction. The centrepiece of the collection is the Egyptian Temple of Taffeh. It dates from the 1st century AD, and from the 4th century AD was dedicated to Isis, Egyptian goddess of fertility. The museum’s rich collection of Egyptian artifacts, which includes wonderful painted sarcophagi, occupies the first two floors. There are also impressive displays of musical instruments, textiles and shoes, expressive Etruscan bronze work and fragments of Roman mosaics and frescoes. The presentation has been designed with children in mind, with interactive exhibits and multimedia reconstructions of daily life in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome.

6"-= Museum Volkenkunde ⌂ Steenstraat 1 # 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun (daily during school hols) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 3 Oct & 25 Dec ∑ volken kunde.nl

This outstanding ethnological museum, founded in 1837, houses collections from nonWestern cultures. Individual displays are linked together to create a worldwide cultural journey that shows both the differences and connections between cultures. Temporary exhibitions include deep dives into different living conditions across the world, from the Arctic wastes to the hills of China, adding to this eclectic museum’s wide appeal.

19 Windmills stood on Leiden’s walls, where breezes were stronger.

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DEN HAAG EXPERIENCE Den Haag

 S4 ⌂ 56 km (35 miles) SW of Amsterdam £ Centraal Station, Koningin Julianaplein; Station Hollands Spoor (HS), Stationsplein n Spui 68; noon–6pm Mon, 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, noon–5pm Sun; www.denhaag.com

Den Haag (’s-Gravenhage or The Hague) became the political capital of the Netherlands in 1586 and is home to prestigious institutions such as the Dutch Parliament and International Court of Justice. stands the fairy-tale, doubleturreted Gothic Ridderzaal (Hall of the Knights). This was the 13th-century dining hall of Floris V, Count of Holland (1254–96). Since 1904, the hall’s function has been mostly ceremonial; it is used for the opening of the Dutch Parliament by the monarch (Prinsjesdag, the third Tuesday in September), and for other state occasions. It is open to visitors when parliament is not in session. Tours take in the Ridderzaal and the debating chambers.

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The former castle of the counts of Holland is now home to the Dutch Parliament and the office of the prime minister of the Netherlands. Known as the Binnenhof, this complex of buildings sits beside the castle’s former moat – the Hofvijver. In the centre of the courtyard

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⌂ Binnenhof 8a # For guided tours only; book via website ¢ Sun & public hols ∑ prodemos.nl

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The grand Binnenhof, sitting on the tranquil waters of the Hofvijver lake

as well as director of the Mauritshuis (p204) from 1895 to 1922. On his death in 1946, he bequeathed his vast collection of 17th-century art to the city of Den Haag. This bequest is displayed in a distinguished 18th-century merchant’s house on the north side of the Hofvijver lake, and features around 200 17thcentury paintings, including famous works by Dutch Masters such as Rembrandt and Jan Steen, as well as others by lesser-known artists. The building itself has undergone considerable renovation and boasts a fine collection of antique furniture, delicate porcelain and elaborate silverware.

3' Grote Kerk ⌂ Rond de Grote Kerk 12 # Jun–Sep: 11am–2pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 11am– 5pm Thu, 2–5pm Sun; Dec–Feb: 1–4pm Sat & Sun ∑ grote-kerk.nl

The Grote Kerk dates mainly from 1539. Its most impressive feature is a stained-glass window which depicts Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor (p53), kneeling at the feet of the Virgin Mary.

4"'= Rijksmuseum Gevangenpoort ⌂ Buitenhof 33 # For guided tours only ¢ Mon, 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 & 31 Dec ∑ gevangenpoort.nl

The Gevangenpoort (prison gate) was originally the main gateway to the 14th-century castle of the counts of Holland. Later, it was turned into a jail, becoming infamous during a period of violent social

A delicately carved marble statue in the Grote Kerk

The medieval gateway of the Rijksmuseum Gevangenpoort

unrest in the late 17th century when burgomaster Cornelis de Witt was confined and tortured here. Both he and his brother Jan were subsequently tried for heresy, and torn limb from limb outside the prison gate by a rioting mob. The gate is now a prison museum. The guided tour explores a unique collection of torture instruments, accompanied by a stereo soundtrack of blood-curdling screams. 203

5"'\= Mauritshuis

EXPERIENCE Den Haag

⌂ Plein 29 # 1–6pm Mon, 10am–6pm Tue– Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ mauritshuis.nl

The Count of Nassau, Johan Maurits, commissioned this graceful house while he was the governor of Brazil. It was completed in 1644 by local architects Pieter Post and Jacob van Campen in Dutch Classical style with influences from Italian Renaissance architecture, and enjoys wonderful views across the Hofvijver (lake). The mansion was bequeathed to the state after Maurits’ death in 1679, and has been the home of the Royal Picture Gallery since 1822. The collection is small (laid out over only three floors), but almost every painting is a superb work by one of the Old Masters. This, combined with the exquisite TOP

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PAINTINGS IN THE MAURITSHUIS

Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665–67) Johannes Vermeer’s most famous portrait. The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp (1632) Rembrandt’s painting of surgeons examining a corpse. The Goldfinch (1654) Tiny, delicate work by Carel Fabritius. Hunting for Lice (c 1652–53) Gerard ter Borch’s scene of a mother grooming her child’s hair. Roses in a Glass Vase (c 1640–45) Delicate still life by Jacob van Hulsdonck.

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The magnificent Mauritshuis, reflected in the Hofvijver, home to Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring (right)

presentation in elegant period rooms, with sparkling chandeliers and immense painted ceilings, makes the Mauritshuis one of the finest galleries in the Netherlands. One of the highlights of the Mauritshuis’s collection is Rembrandt’s representation of surgeons examining a corpse. This large-scale painting reflects the burgeoning contemporary interest in anatomy and science in the 17th century. The arrangement of the paintings changes frequently in order to cover all aspects of the collection, so check the current display on the museum’s website. Information sheets and an audio tour are available in English. The Royal Dutch Shell Wing, an exhibition wing, which opened in 2014, is connected to the historic building by an

innovative underground foyer, which also houses a brasserie and a museum shop, selling beautiful coffee-table books.

6"\= Madurodam ⌂ George Maduroplein 1 # Daily, check website for details ∑ madurodam.nl

Madurodam is a 1:25 scale model of a composite Dutch city. It incorporates replicas of the Binnenhof in Den Haag, the canal houses of Amsterdam, Rotterdam’s Europoort and Schiphol airport, along with windmills, polders and bulbfields. At night it is illuminated by tiny lights.

Did You Know? Johan Maurits built the Mauritshuis with wealth gained from his plantations in Brazil that used enslaved people.

The model city was opened by Queen Juliana in 1952. It was conceived by J M L Maduro as a memorial to his son George, who died at Dachau concen­ tration camp in 1945.

7" Panorama Mesdag ⌂ Zeestraat 65 # 10am– 5pm Mon–Sat, 11am– 5pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ panorama-mesdag.com

This painted cyclorama is important both as a work of Dutch Impressionism and as

a rare surviving example of 19th­century entertainment. The vast painting, the largest circular canvas in Europe, is 120 m (400 ft) in circum­ ference and lines the inside wall of a circular, canopied pavilion. The optical illusion makes visitors feel that they are standing in the old fishing village of Scheveningen. The astonishingly realistic effect of the painting is achieved through the brilliant use of perspective, enhanced by natural daylight from above. It was painted in 1881 by members of the Dutch Impressionist School, led by H W Mesdag (1831–1915) and his wife, Sientje (1834–1909). George Hendrik Breitner (1857–1923) later added a group of cavalry officers charging along the beach on horseback. Constructed specially for the painting, the building itself has been renovated and extended, creating more space for temporary exhibitions.

STAY Hotel des Indes

Open since 1884, this grand hotel is redolent of the belle époque, filled with gilt mirrors and chandeliers. ⌂ Lange Voorhout 54–56 ∑ hoteldesindes thehague.com ¡¡¡

Stadsvilla Hotel Mozaic

This small hotel offers stylishly decorated rooms in classic monochrome shades. ⌂ Laan Copes van Cattenbuch 38–40 ∑ mozaic.nl ¡¡¡

Miniature buildings in a recreated city, Madurodam

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EAT EXPERIENCE Den Haag

Restaurant des Indes

The opulent restaurant of Den Haag’s grandest hotel (p205) serves French-inspired, classically presented steak and seafood such as Dover sole. ⌂ Lange Voorhout 54–56 ¢ Sun & Mon ∑ desindes.nl ¡¡¡

Keraton Damai

Set in a grand 19thcentury townhouse, this restaurant offers a mouthwatering selection of Indonesian dishes. Choosing is made easy by just opting for rijsttafel (small dishes served with rice). ⌂ Groot Hertoginnelaan 57 ¢ Mon ∑ keratondamai.nl ¡¡¡

Vredespaleis, home to the International Court of Justice

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8"' Vredespaleis ⌂ Carnegieplein 2 # Visitors’ centre: Tue– Sun ¢ Public hols & when court is in session ∑ vredespaleis.nl

In 1899, Den Haag played host to the first international peace conference. This then led to the subsequent formation of the Permanent Court of Arbitration, which had the aim of maintaining world peace. To provide a suitably august home for the court, the Scottish-born philanthropist Andrew Carnegie (1835–1919) donated $1.5 million towards the building of the mock-Gothic Vredespaleis (peace palace), which was designed by French architect Louis Cordonnier. The enormous palace was completed in 1913, and many of the member nations of the Court of Arbitration contributed to the interior’s rich decoration. Today the Vredespaleis is the seat of the United Nations’ International Court of Justice, which was formed in 1946 as successor to the Permanent Court of Arbitration. There is a visitors’ centre but the building itself is

open to the public only on a guided tour (check dates and book tickets via the website).

9"' Galerij Prins Willem V ⌂ Buitenhof 33 ¢ Check website for details ∑ galerijprinswillemv.nl

In his youth, Prince William V was a collector of 17th-century paintings. His collection was opened to the public in 1774, inside this former inn, which the prince had converted for use as his kabinet – the 18th-century Dutch word for an art gallery. The Galerij is the oldest art gallery in the Netherlands. The 18th-century fashion for covering every available

Visitors observing the art at Galerij Prins Willem V

Admiring artworks in the Kunstmuseum Den Haag

inch of wall space with paintings has been retained, and so several pictures are hung high and close together. Many of Prince William’s original purchases are still to be seen. Old Master paintings by Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Paulus Potter (1625–54) are included in a collection that consists principally of typically Dutch 17th-century landscapes, genre paintings (p127), “conversation pieces” and recreations of important historical events.

0"'-= Kunstmuseum Den Haag ⌂Stadhouderslaan 41 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ 25 Dec ∑ kunst museum.nl

This is one of the city’s finest museums. The delightful building was the last work of H P Berlage, the father of the architectural movement known as the Amsterdam School (p37). The museum was completed in 1935, a

INTERNATIONAL COURT OF JUSTICE Den Haag is known the world over for being home to the International Court of Justice – the highest court of the United Nations. The court’s 15 judges are elected for nine-year terms by the UN General Assembly and Security Council, and are tasked with settling legal disputes between states submitted by UN members. It’s often confused with both the Court of Justice of the European Union, based in Luxembourg, and the European Court of Human Rights, in Strasbourg.

year after his death, and is built in sandy-coloured brick on two storeys round a central courtyard, with every room open to daylight. The exhibits are displayed in three sections. Highlights of the superb applied arts section include antique delftware, Islamic and Oriental porcelain and the world’s largest collection of paintings by Piet Mondriaan. Costumes dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries are too fragile to be put on permanent display, but selected items are regularly exhibited. The labyrinthine basement is the stage for the “Wonderkamers” (the Wonder Rooms), which hold quirky displays of artworks from all the collections, aimed especially at teenage visitors. With as many as 35 temporary exhibitions each year, the Kunstmuseum has a constantly evolving scene. The extensive exhibition programme offers something for everyone – topics ranging from the role of the colour black in the history of fashion to Picasso’s Cubist sculptures have all had their place in the museum’s programme. Snaffle up a ticket online before you visit and learn about something interesting in depth. 207

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INSIDER TIP

DELFT

Delftware Instead of buying the famed hand-painted porcelain in the expensive boutiques in the centre of the town, head to a local factory. Their shops are often reasonably priced and you can take a tour.

EXPERIENCE Delft

 S4 ⌂ 50 km (31 miles) SW of Amsterdam £ Delft n Kerkstraat 3; www.delft.com

The charming town of Delft is known the world over for its blue-and-white pottery, but it is equally famous as the resting place of William of Orange (1533–84) and as the birthplace of artist Jan Vermeer (1632–75). The origins of Delft date from 1075 and its prosperity was based on weaving and brewing. An explosion at the national arsenal destroyed much of the medieval town in October 1645 and the centre was rebuilt in the late 17th century. The sleepy old town has changed little since then – gabled Gothic and Renaissance houses still line the tree-shaded canals. Activity centres on the market square, bordered by the Stadhuis and Nieuwe Kerk. Visitors can dip into the scores of shops selling antiques and delftware.

The centre of Delft, which is illustrated below, boasts two iconic churches

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In 1581, Philip II declared William of Orange (p53) an outlaw and offered a reward of 25,000 crowns for his assassination. Balthasar Gérard masqueraded as a French nobleman and gained William’s trust. On 10 July 1584, Gérard shot William at his home in Delft, which is now known as Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof. Projected silhouettes here re-enact the assassination .

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Oude Delft is lined with Renaissance canal houses

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The façade of the Vleeshal – the old meat market – with its animal heads, stands out from the other buildings nearby

The magnificent organ in the white interior of the Oude Kerk, which contains the tombs of eminent Delft citizens

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EXPERIENCE Delft

The Oude Kerk’s bell tower, seen from one of Delft’s many pretty canals

1" Oude Kerk ⌂ Heilige Geestkerkhof # Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon– Sat; Nov–Jan: 11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat; Feb–Mar: 10am–5pm Mon– Sat ∑ onkd.nl

Although a church has existed on this site since the 11th century, the original building has been added to many times. The ornate, but leaning, clock tower was built in the 14th century, and the flam­ boyant Gothic north transept was added in the early 16th century. The interior is domin­ ated by the carved wooden pulpit with overhanging canopy. The simple stone tablet at the east end of the

north aisle marks the burial place of Johannes Vermeer. In the north transept lies Admiral Maarten Tromp (1598–1653), who defeated the English fleet in 1652.

2"'-= Royal Delft ⌂ Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles, Rotterdamseweg 196 # 11:30am–5pm Mon & Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Sun ¢ 25 & 26 Dec, 1 Jan ∑ royaldelft.com

There were once more than 30 delftware factories in this area. De Porceleyne Fles (est­ ablished in 1653) is one of the few factories still producing the typical white pottery with

delicate blue hand­painted decorations known as delftware. A visit includes a tour of the factory and the opportunity to watch the artists at work. There is a small museum displaying pieces produced by the factory. Vermeer’s dining room has been recreated, and the Royal Treasury shows the delftware especially designed for the Dutch royal family. If you fancy trying your hand at creating your own decorative masterpiece, you can sign up for a workshop of earthenware painting with Delft Blue paint. The lunchroom serves after­ noon tea (advance booking required), allowing you the chance to sip tea and nibble petits fours from fine Delft Blue crockery.

3" Nieuwe Kerk ⌂ Markt # Apr–Oct: 9am– 6pm Mon–Sat; Nov–Jan: 11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am– 5pm Sat; Feb–Mar: 10am– 5pm Mon–Sat ∑ onkd.nl

Standing in the market square opposite the city hall,

DELFTWARE The blue-and-white tin-glazed pottery known as delftware was developed from majolica and introduced to the Netherlands by immigrant Italian potters in the 16th century. Settling around Delft and Haarlem, the potters made wall tiles, adopting Dutch motifs such as animals and flowers as decoration. Trade with the east brought samples of delicate Chinese porcelain to the Netherlands, and the market for coarser Dutch majolica crashed. By 1650, local potters had adopted the Chinese model and designed fine plates, vases and bowls decorated with Dutch landscapes, and biblical and genre scenes.

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Delftware porcelain clogs

Model of a galleon, Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof

the Nieuwe Kerk was built between 1383 and 1510, but much of the original structure was restored following a fire in 1536 and an explosion at the national arsenal in 1654. Work on the church continued for many years, and it was not until 1872 that P J H Cuypers (p36) added the statuesque 100-m (320-ft) tower to the Gothic façade. To climb the tower’s 376 steps, buy a token from the church. The climb is quite strenuous but worth it for a great view across Delft and its surroundings. The tower also has a fine series of bells. The burial vaults of the Dutch royal family are in the crypt of this empty, cavernous church, but the most prominent feature is the mausoleum of William of Orange (p53). The richly decorated tomb was designed by Hendrick de Keyser (p37) in 1614 and is carved from black and white marble, with heavy gilded detailing. At its heart is a sculpture of William in his battle dress, and at each corner stand bronze figures representing the Virtues. Close to William is his dog, who died days after him, and at the foot of the tomb is a trumpeting angel – symbol of Fame. Due to ongoing restoration work, parts of the church may be screened off. It is best to check the church’s website before visiting.

4"'-= Vermeer Centrum Delft ⌂ Voldersgracht 21 # 10am–5pm daily ¢ 25 Dec ∑ vermeerdelft.nl

Little is known about the life of Delft’s most famous and enigmatic artist, Johannes Vermeer (1632–75). In a series of beautiful displays, the Vermeer Centrum uncovers some of the mysteries surrounding this man. Visitors are introduced to the artist and the city where he lived all his life. Life-size copies of all his paintings are on display, including Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665-67). On the upper floors, some of his painting techniques are explained, particularly his use of perspective, colour and light. Changing exhibitions focus on the symbolic messages in his paintings.

5"-= Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof ⌂ St Agathaplein 1 # 11am– 5pm Tue–Sun (daily Mar– Aug) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ prinsenhof-delft.nl

This tranquil Gothic building, formerly a convent, now houses Delft’s historical

museum but is better known as the place where William of Orange was assassinated. He requisitioned the convent in 1572 for his headquarters during the Dutch Revolt. In 1584, by order of Philip II of Spain, William was shot by Balthasar Gérard. The bullet holes in the main staircase wall can still be seen. The museum houses a rare collection of antique delftware, displayed alongside tapestries, silverware, medieval sculpture and a series of portraits of the Dutch royal family. The museum café has a terrace in the lovely garden.

EAT Huszár

This lovely waterside brasserie occupies an artfully redesigned industrial space. The menu uses local organic produce. It’s easy to imagine Vermeer sitting right here to paint his famous View of Delft. ⌂ Hooikade 13 ∑ huszar.nl ¡¡¡

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EXPERIENCE Rotterdam

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ROTTERDAM  T4 ⌂ 65 km (40 miles) SW of Amsterdam £ Rotterdam Centraal k 6 km (4 miles) NW n Rotterdam Centraal station and Coolsingel 114; www.rotterdam.info

Rotterdam’s ancient heart was ravaged during World War II, due to its prominent port. Much of the city has been rebuilt in experimental styles, resulting in some of Europe’s most original and innovative architecture. 1"'-= Maritiem Museum Rotterdam ⌂ Leuvehaven 1 # 10am– 5pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ maritiem museum.nl

Rotterdam occupies a strategic maritime position.

The city sits where the Rijn (Rhine), Europe’s most important river, meets the North Sea and, as a result, has always been a centre for trade. Today, barges from Rotterdam transport goods deep into the continent, and ocean-going ships carry European exports around the world. Rotterdam is therefore a fitting city for a

EAT Restaurant de Jong

Chef Jim de Jong's spectacular six-course menu uses local produce. ⌂ Raampoortstraat 38 ¢ Mon & Tue ∑ restaurantdejong.nl ¡¡¡

museum dedicated to the historic seafaring prowess of the Netherlands. Prince Hendrik, brother of King William III, founded this museum in 1873. Highlights include the oldest model ship in Europe, a miniature version of one of Columbus’s cargo ships. Also worth a visit is the museum harbour, where you can explore artfully restored barges and steamships. Children can play games while learning about ships and what it’s like to work in a port at the interactive Professor Splash area.

Historic boats in the Maritiem Museum Rotterdam harbour

Must See The striking tilting yellow cubes of the Kubuswoningen

EUROPOORT HARBOUR CRUISES The Europoort, which is the area on the south side of Rotterdam’s harbour, stretches along the Rijn between the city and the North Sea. A cruise around this bustling part of the harbour is a rare opportunity to see some of the world’s largest ships up close. Visitors who prefer to stay on dry land can see some of these steel behemoths loading and unloading right in the city centre at Spido (www.spido.nl), where wharves and quays service around 32,000 container ships yearly.

3"-= Wereldmuseum Rotterdam ⌂ Willemskade 25 # 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri (Mon–Fri during school holidays), 11am–5pm Sat & Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ wereldmuseum.nl

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Much of Oudehaven, the old harbour area of Rotterdam, was bombed in World War II and it has largely been rebuilt in daring and avant-garde styles. The pencil-shaped apartment block, Blaaktoren, and the adjacent “cube houses”, Kubuswoningen, were designed by architect Piet Blom (1934–99), and built in 1982–4. The structuralist buildings were designed to integrate with their surroundings, but also to encourage social interaction among its occupants. The Kubuswoningen are extraordinary apartments, set on concrete stilts and tilted at a crazy angle. Each cube contains three floors. The lowest floor is a triangular living space, with its windows looking down on the street, while the second floor houses the bedrooms and has skyfacing windows. The top floor forms a three-sided pyramid, with 18 windows and 3 hatches, offering amazing views. Residents have specially designed furniture to fit the sloping rooms.

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⌂ Overblaak 70 # 10am–6pm daily ∑ kubuswoning.nl

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During the 17th century, the city fathers amassed a superb ethnological collection. The Wereldmuseum displays 1,800 artifacts from Indonesia, the Americas and Asia, and presents audiovisual displays of theatre, film, dance and music. The museum reflects 127 of the 170 different nationalities who live in Rotterdam. The musuem café offers stunning river views.

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EXPERIENCE Rotterdam

⌂ Parkhaven 20 # Apr– Sep: 9:30am–10pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–10pm daily ∑ euromast.nl

This futuristic structure enjoys sweeping views of Rotterdam. At a height of 100 m (328 ft), the lower section, which was built in 1960, has a viewing platform with a restaurant. In 1970 the Space Tower added another 85 m (279 ft) to the structure to make this the tallest construction in the Netherlands. An exterior “space cabin” ascends 58 m (190 ft) from the viewing platform.

EUROMAST ABSEILING From May to September, adventurous visitors to Rotterdam can abseil down the 185-m (607-ft) Euromast. A high-speed lift zooms to the top in minutes, but the 100-m (328-ft) descent from the viewing platform takes around 15 minutes. Adrenaline junkies are accompanied by an instructor and must be over 16. The €57.50 ticket includes admission to the Euromast. See www.abseilen.nl for details.

5"-= Kunsthal ⌂ Westzeedijk 341 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & public hols ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ kunsthal.nl

From costume and art to inventions and photography, Rotterdam’s modern architecture, seen from the Euromast tower

the Kunsthal delivers exciting exhibitions that alternate between traditional “high art” and pop culture. There is no permanent collection. The eye-catching building was designed in 1998 by Rotterdam’s Rem Koolhaas,

whose other works include the Beijing headquarters for China Central Television. His innovative use of materials, such as corrugated plastic, and an orange steel girder that sticks out over the edge of the roof draw attention.

6"'= Nederlands Fotomuseum

7"\= Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen

TOP

⌂ Gebouw Las Palmas, Wilhelminakade 332 # 11am–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ nederlandsfoto museum.nl

⌂ Museumpark 18–20 # 11am–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ For renovation until 2026 ∑ boijmans.nl

Tower of Babel (c 1556) Pieter Bruegel depicts the building of the Old Testament skyscraper.

The museum is named after two art connoisseurs, F J O Boijmans, who bequeathed his paintings to Rotterdam in 1847, and D G van Beuningen, whose heirs donated his collection to the state in 1958. The resulting collection is one of the Netherlands’ finest. Known for its supreme series of Old Master paintings, the collection also covers the whole spectrum of art, including the medieval works of Jan van Eyck, rare glass­ ware, Surrealist paintings and contemporary art. For Bruegel and Rembrandt follow signs to the Old Masters Collection, and for Dalí and Magritte look for the Art: 18th century–1945 section. During the renovation period, highlights will be on display at various museums in Rotterdam and beyond. Check website for details. In the meantime, the eye­ catching Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen – the museum’s

The Pedlar (c 1502) Bosch’s painting is an allegory of human temptation.

In the heart of Rotterdam’s former industrial area, the restored warehouse Las Palmas houses the Dutch Photography Museum, which is an impressive archive of images covering Dutch photo­ graphers. Fascinating and ever­changing exhibitions showcase treasures from the archives alongside works by foreign photographers, com­ paring and contrasting the examples. The large gallery space is very open. Prints are available at the museum shop.

Did You Know? Covering 105 sq km (41 sq miles), Rotterdam is the biggest port in Europe.

5

EXHIBITS IN BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN

Titus at his Desk (1655) Rembrandt’s portrayal of his frail son. Three Marys at the Tomb (c 1425–35) Biblical scene by Jan and Hubertus van Eyck. Projet pour la toile “Premier Amour” (1952) Man Ray’s jagged geo­ metric abstract painting.

new storage building – opens in autumn 2021, next door to the main building. Get lost among the hidden treasures of this building, which resembles a giant flower, and enjoy the views from its rooftop garden.

EXPERIENCE Utrecht

A boat passes a café on one of Utrecht’s many canal-side wharfs

8

UTRECHT  U4 ⌂ 57 km (35 miles) SE of Amsterdam £ Utrecht Centraal n Domplein 9; www.visit-utrecht.com

In Utrecht’s city centre medieval churches and monasteries stand alongside modern blocks and a vast undercover shopping complex. The Oudegracht (old canal), lined with broad quays, cellar bars and cafés, threads its way through the city. 1-= Domkerk ⌂ Achter de Dom 1 # Daily ∑ domkerk.nl

Construction of the cathedral began in 1254. Today, only the north and south transepts, two chapels and the choir remain, along with the 15th-century cloisters and a chapterhouse (1495), which is now part of the university. Outside the church is a giant boulder, dated 980 and covered with runic symbols. It was presented to Utrecht by the Danish people in 1936, to commemorate Denmark’s early conversion to Christianity by missionaries from Utrecht. The soaring 112-m- (367-ft-) high Domtoren has always stood apart from the cathedral. 216

2"-= Museum Catharijneconvent ⌂ Lange Nieuwstraat 38 # 10am–5pm Tue–Fri; from 11am Sat, Sun & public hols ¢ 1 Jan ∑ catharijneconvent.nl

The beautiful former convent of St Catherine (1562) is now home to a fascinating museum dealing with the often troubled history of religion in the Netherlands. On the upper floors, a series of model church interiors highlights the changes in religious philosophies through the ages. They range from the lavish statues and paintings in a Catholic church to the more austere, unadorned interiors typical of Protestant churches.

3"'-= Museum Speelklok ⌂ Buurkerk on Steenweg 6 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (daily during school hols) ¢ 1 Jan, 27 Apr, 25 Dec ∑ museumspeelklok.nl

This magical place displays a collection of mechanical musical instruments, from the 18th century to the present day. Fairground organs compete with music boxes, clocks, carillons, pianolas and automated birds. These instruments are demonstrated on guided tours, during which visitors are encouraged to sing and dance along. The restoration of instruments can be observed in the workshop.

EAT Meneer Smakers

Bright and friendly canal-side restaurant serving artisan burgers. ⌂ Oudegracht 116 ∑ smakers.nl ¡¡¡

Must See A child hugging a Miffy mascot at the Nijntje Museum

4"'-= Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum ⌂ Maliebaanstation # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & public hols (daily during school hols) ¢ 27 Apr ∑ spoorwegmuseum.nl

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Museum. It is dedicated to the most famous nijntje (little rabbit) in the Netherlands – Miffy – and her creator, Dick Bruna (1927–2017). Inside, younger kids can explore ten themed rooms inspired by characters from Bruna’s many picture books, listen to story readings, or join a creative workshop. It’s a playful learning experience that avoids being either too twee or commercialized.

up the glamour and romance of the golden age of steam.

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The headquarters of the Dutch railways is based in Utrecht, so it is fitting that the town has a superb railway museum. Inside, there are modern rail accessories. Outside, visitors can explore steam engines, carriages, trams and signal boxes in five railway “worlds”, each with its own theme. Using costumed actors, the museum’s “Dream Journeys” experience recreates a journey on the legendary Orient Express from Paris to Constantinople. It summons

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EXPERIENCE Beyond Amsterdam

PALEIS HET LOO  U3 ⌂ 85 km (53 miles) SE of Amsterdam; Koninklijk Park 1, Apeldoorn £ Apeldoorn, then bus 10, 102 # Gardens & stables: Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Palace: closed for renovation until mid-2021 ∑ paleishetloo.nl

Regarded as the “Versailles of the Netherlands”, the palace’s Classical façade belies the opulence of its lavish interior. Don’t miss the formal gardens and the collection of vintage cars in the stable. King William III of England, Stadholder of the Netherlands, built Het Loo in 1686 as a royal hunting lodge. Generations of the House of Orange used the lodge as a summer palace. The main architect was Jacob Roman (1640–1716), but the interior decoration and layout of the gardens were the responsibility of Daniel Marot (1661–1752). After extensive restoration work in 1984, Paleis Het Loo opened as a museum. The palace is closed for renovation until mid-2021, but the gardens and stables remain open.

Bedroom of Queen Mary II Old dining room

State bedroom of William III The walls of William III’s closet (1690) are covered in embossed scarlet damask and his private study still houses his favourite paintings and delftware.

King’s garden

Main entrance

William III’s bedroom

The magnificent Paleis Het Loo, with its beautiful gardens

218

Must See

The flag of the Netherlands flying above the Paleis Het Loo and its formal gardens

Queen’s garden

The east wing houses the royal collections of clocks, dinner services and other household items.

Did You Know? The palace hosts the Royal Horsepower Show for a weekend in May or June.

Library

1

Picture gallery

2

1 The luxurious state bedroom of William III (c 1695) has ornate wall coverings and draperies made of rich crimson damask. 2 The gardens combine plants, statuary and fountains in Classical style to reflect the late 17th-century belief that art and nature should exist in harmony. 3 In 1984, six layers of paint were removed from the marbled walls of the old dining room (1686), now hung with tapestries depicting scenes from Ovid’s poems.

3 219

Bikes on a bridge during spring

NEED TO KNOW

Before You Go ............................................. 222 Getting Around ........................................... 224 Practical Information ............................... 228

NEED TO KNOW Before You Go

BEFORE

YOU GO

Things change, so plan ahead to make the most of your trip. Be prepared for all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel. AT A GLANCE

Passports and Visas

CURRENCY

For entry requirements, including visas, consult your nearest Dutch embassy or check the Netherlands and You website. EU nationals and citizens of the UK, US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need a visa for stays of up to three months for the purpose of tourism. Netherlands and You ∑ netherlandsandyou.nl

Euro (EUR)

AVERAGE DAILY SPEND

Government Advice SAVE

SPEND

€80

BOTTLED WATER

€2.00

SPLURGE

€175

€250+

COFFEE

BEER

€3.00

€5.00

DINNER FOR TWO

€75

ESSENTIAL PHRASES Hello

Hallo

Goodbye

Dag

Please

Alstublieft

Thank you

Dank u

I'm sorry

Sorry

I don’t understand

Ik snap het niet

ELECTRICITY SUPPLY

Power sockets are type C and F, fitting two-pronged plugs. Standard voltage is 230 volts.

222

Now more than ever, it is important to consult both your and the Dutch government’s advice before travelling. The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office, the US State Department, the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade and the Government of the Netherlands offer the latest information on security, health and local regulations. Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade ∑ smartraveller.gov.au Government of the Netherlands ∑ government.nl UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice US State Department ∑ travel.state.gov

Customs Information You can find information on the laws relating to goods and currency taken in or out of the Netherlands on the Government of the Netherlands’ website. Plant and flower bulbs bought in Amsterdam must have a certificate of inspection from the Plant Protection Service if being taken to the US or Canada.

Insurance We recommend that you take out a comprehensive insurance policy covering theft, loss of belongings, medical care, cancellation and delays, and read the small print carefully.

EU and Australian citizens are eligible for discounted or free emergency medical care in the Netherlands. EU citizens should have an EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) and Australians should be registered to Medicare. EHIC ∑ ec.europa.eu Medicare ∑ humanservices.gov.au/individuals/medicare

Accessible Travel Netherlands ∑ accessibletravelnl.com NS Travel Assistance ∑ ns.nl/en/travel-information/travelingwith-a-functional-disability Schiphol Airport ∑ schiphol.nl/en/page/extra-assistance

Vaccinations

Dutch is the official language spoken in Amsterdam but the Dutch speak an excellent level of English. Asking a local if they speak English can be seen as an insult, the implication being that they are uneducated.

No inoculations are needed for the Netherlands.

Booking Accommodation During peak season lodgings fill up and prices become inflated, so book in advance. A list of accommodation to suit all needs can be found on the I amsterdam website (p228). Visitors must pay a tourist tax of €3 per person per night on top of a 7 per cent levy on each hotel room.

Money Most establishments accept major credit, debit and prepaid currency cards, but it’s always a good idea to carry some cash, just in case. Contactless payments are widely accepted. You should tip wait staff between 5 and 10 per cent of the final bill; hotel porters and housekeeping will expect €1 per bag or day.

Travellers with Specific Requirements Despite its winding canals and cobbled streets, Amsterdam is a surprisingly accessible city. Accessible Travel Netherlands reviews the accessibility and user-friendliness of restaurants, shops, transport and public buildings in the city. Assistance at Schiphol Airport is available free of charge, but must be booked at the same time as your flight. Main train stations have tactile guidance lines and mobile ramps, and a carer or companion can travel for free through the NS Travel Assistance service. Many trains have wheelchair access doors and most doubledecker trains have wheelchair-accessible toilets. All main pedestrian crossings have sound alerts for the visually impaired.

Language

Opening Hours COVID-19 The pandemic continues to affect Amsterdam. Some museums, tourist attractions and hospitality venues are operating on reduced or temporary opening hours, and require visitors to make advance bookings for a specific date and time. Always check ahead before visiting. Mondays Some attractions are closed. Sundays Some shops close early. Public holidays Many attractions close early.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 1 Jan

New Year’s Day

Mar/Apr

Good Friday

Mar/Apr

Easter Sunday

Mar/Apr

Easter Monday

27 Apr

King’s Day

5 May

Liberation Day

May/Jun

Ascension Day

May/Jun

Whit Sunday

May/Jun

Whit Monday

25 Dec

Christmas Day

26 Dec

St Stephen’s Day

223

NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

GETTING

AROUND Amsterdam is known for its excellent public transport system. However, by far the most enjoyable way to explore this vibrant city is on two wheels.

Arriving by Air

AT A GLANCE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS

Tickets are valid on all forms of public transport in Amsterdam.

SINGLE

€3.20 Valid for 1 hour, transfers included

DAY PASS

€8.00 Unlimited travel, day or night

3-DAY PASS

€19.00 Unlimited travel, day or night

SPEED LIMIT MOTORWAY

DUAL CARRIAGEWAYS

100

100

(60 mph)

(60 mph)

NATIONAL ROADS

URBAN AREAS

80

50

(50 mph)

(30 mph)

km/h

km/h

km/h

km/h

Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport is a major international transport hub for destinations around the globe. Schiphol is extremely well connected to Amsterdam city centre by train, bus and taxi. Car rental facilities are also available, although driving in Amsterdam is not recommended (p226). For journey times between the airport and city centre, see the table opposite. Schiphol Travel Taxi is a shared taxi service that can be booked online as either a private or, for a lower fare, shared taxi. A shared fare starts at around €35 for a single trip and €67 for a return. A shared taxi may take a longer time than expected, as it can make several stops before your destination. Connexxion Schiphol Hotel Shuttle is a privately run minibus service that will transport you to and from your hotel. Rates vary depending on how far your hotel is from the airport. Discounts are available for group and family bookings. Connexxion Schiphol Hotel Shuttle ∑ schipholhotelshuttle.nl Schiphol Travel Taxi ∑ schipholtraveltaxi.nl

Boats and Ferries What better way to reach this watery city than by boat? The Dutchflyer is a rail and sail service that runs from London to Amsterdam via Harwich and the Hook of Holland. P&O Ferries operates an overnight service from Hull to Zeebrugge or Rotterdam where you can transfer to Amsterdam’s Centraal Station. The Dutchflyer ∑ stenaline.co.uk/ferry-to-holland/rail-and-sail P&O Ferries ∑ poferries.com/en/portal

Long-Distance Bus Travel Long-distance bus or coach travel can be a cheap option for travellers. National Express and Flixbus offer a variety of routes to Amsterdam

224

GETTING TO AND FROM SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Transport Bus (397)

Journey time

Average fare

30 mins

€3.35

Connexxion Schiphol Hotel Shuttle

from 30 mins

€18.50

Schiphol Travel Taxi

from 30 mins

€35

Taxi

from 30 mins

€40-60

15-20 mins

€4.50

Train (Sprinter or Intercity)

from other European cities, including London, Paris and Berlin. Fares start from €25, with discounts for students and children. Flixbus ∑ flixbus.co.uk National Express ∑ nationalexpress.com

Train Travel International Train Travel

Regular high-speed international trains connect Amsterdam’s Centraal Station – the city’s central transport hub – to other major cities across Europe. Advance reservations for these services are essential. You can buy tickets and passes for multiple international journeys from Eurail or Interrail, however you may still need to pay an additional reservation fee depending on what rail service you travel with. Always check that your pass is valid on the service on which you wish to travel before boarding, as you may be fined for travelling without the correct ticket. Eurostar runs a reliable and regular service from London to Amsterdam via the Channel Tunnel. The return journey is also direct. Thalys runs a high-speed rail service between Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam 10–12 times a day. Look out for the variety of special offers, package deals and half-price last-minute deals that the company offers. NS International also runs a high-speed service between Brussels, Antwerp, Breda, Rotterdam and Amsterdam. Students and passengers under the age of 26 can benefit from discounted rail travel. For more information on youth fares visit the Eurail or Interrail website. Eurail ∑ eurail.com

Eurostar ∑ eurostar.com Interrail ∑ interrail.eu NS International ∑ nsinternational.nl Thalys ∑ thalys.com

Domestic Train Travel Dutch railways are operated by Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS). The NS Service Centre is located in the western hall of Centraal Station and provides information on all rail journeys, including live updates and information on delays and changes in the schedule. For venturing further afield, the NS offers a wide range of day trips to a variety of locations across the country. Tickets often include a lunch coupon and reduced entry to many Amsterdam museums and attractions. Tickets can be bought online or from the yellow machines at the front and back entrances of Centraal Station. NS ∑ ns.nl/en

Public Transport GVB is Amsterdam’s integrated public transport system. Safety and hygiene measures, timetables, ticket information, transport maps and more can be obtained from the GVB website. 9292 provides information on all public transport within the city and the rest of the Netherlands, but it does not make reservations. 9292 ∑ 9292.nl/en GVB ∑ en.gvb.nl 225

NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

Tickets To travel on the metro, trams and buses you will need an OV-chipkaart. There are two kinds: a disposable card valid for either one hour or one to seven days, and a reloadable pass. Both can be bought and topped up at ticket vending machines at stations, GVB ticket offices, some supermarkets and newsagents operating as OV-chipkaart sales points. Avoid buying your OV-chipkaart at Centraal Station, where queues can be very long. To validate a journey, hold the OV-chipkaart in front of the grey card readers on entering and leaving a metro or train station, or when getting on and off trams and buses. Don't forget to tap it as you disembark or exit – you will be charged more for your journey if you don't. On all forms of transport, you will be charged the same distance fee, so no one form of transport is cheaper than another. Children under 4 travel for free on all forms of public transport. Discounted personalized OV-chipkaarten for seniors and 4–11 year olds can be purchased at a GVB office.

Buses The majority of Amsterdam’s buses depart from Centraal Station, branching out from the city centre with the same stops as the trams. Night buses, whose route numbers start with N, run all night, with services every hour during the week and every half hour at weekends. Fares start at €4.70 per ride.

Trams The most useful routes go south from Centraal Station (2, 4, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 24), diverging after the Singel. Trams operate from 6am on weekdays and 7am at weekends, finishing just after midnight, when night buses take over.

Metro Amsterdam’s underground system comprises five lines, three of which start from and terminate at Centraal Station. There are seven stations in the centre. From Amsterdam CS (Centraal Station) you either take the eastern line (51, 53, 54), stopping at Nieuwmarkt, Waterlooplein and Weesperplein, or you can hop on the Noord/Zuidlijn (52) to travel to Rokin, Vijzelgracht and De Pijp.

Taxis Official taxis have a blue numberplate and display their registration number on the windscreen. They should always run a meter. Taxis are not hailed, but picked up at official taxi stands (kwaliteitstaxistandplaatsen) situated at main stations and squares or close to key 226

tourist sights. Taxi apps such as Uber also operate in Amsterdam. Amsterdam Taxi Online, Sneltaxi and TCA Taxicentrale can be booked by phone or online. Amsterdam Taxi Online ∑ amsterdamtaxi-online.com Sneltaxi ∑ sneltaxi.nl TCA Taxicentrale ∑ tcataxi.nl/en.html

Driving Driving in Amsterdam is not recommended. Small inner-city streets, canals, parking shortages and complicated one-way systems all make Amsterdam ill-suited to getting around by car. Public transport is a much more efficient way of travelling around the city.

Driving to Amsterdam The Netherlands is easily reached by car from most European countries via E-roads, the International European Road Network. Major roads (N roads) and motorways (A roads) are well maintained. From the A10 ring road, the S-routes (marked by blue signs) will take you to the centre of Amsterdam. To take your own car into the Netherlands, you will need proof of registration, valid insurance documents, a road safety certificate from the vehicle’s country of origin and an international identification disc. Most of Amsterdam is a low emission zone. Only diesel cars with a Euro 4 engine are allowed to drive in the city. Petrol-fuelled cars are exempt.

Car Rental To rent a car in the Netherlands you must be 19 or over and have held a valid driver’s licence for at least a year. EU driving licences issued by any of the EU member states are valid throughout the European Union. If visiting from outside the EU, you may need to apply for an International Driving Permit (IDP). Check with your local automobile association before you travel.

Driving in Amsterdam If you do decide to take to the roads in Amsterdam, it is important to be aware of the many one-way systems in place in the city centre. When driving in the canal area, remember that the water should be to your left. Park-and-ride facilities, available on the outskirts of the city, are much cheaper and less stressful than parking in the city centre. The ANWB provides a breakdown service for members of foreign motoring organizations. A non-member can pay for the ANWB’s services or become a temporary member.

ANWB ∑ anwb.nl

Rules of the Road Drive on the right. Unless otherwise signposted, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. Passing or turning is forbidden on roads with a continuous white line. At all times, drivers must carry a valid driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents. The wearing of seat belts is compulsory and the use of a mobile phone while driving is prohibited, with the exception of a hands-free system. Headlights should be dipped in built-up areas. It is prohibited to use sidelights only. The Dutch strictly enforce speed limits (p224) on their roads, and use traffic enforcement cameras in urban areas and radar guns on national roads and motorways. The Netherlands strictly enforces its drink-drive limit (p229).

Cycling By far the best way to get around Amsterdam is by bicycle. The city’s traffic system favours cyclists. There is also an excellent network of cycle lanes (fietspaden), bike parking facilities, dedicated traffic lights and road signs, as well as special routes linking different parts of the city. Bicycle theft in Amsterdam is rife. Always secure your bike even when parking for just a few minutes to deter potential bike thieves. Hire shops are happy to advise on security matters and a bike lock will normally be included in the rental price.

Bicycle Hire Rental costs start at around €10 per day for a basic, single-gear, back-pedal brake bike. Since Amsterdam is so flat, gears are not essential. Deposits are usually paid upfront and refunded on return. You may have to leave your passport or ID for the duration of the rental. MacBike and Orange Bike offer optional extras such as children’s seats, paniers, saddlebags and rain gear. MacBike ∑ macbike.nl Orange Bike ∑ orange-bike.nl

Bicycle Safety Ride on the right. If you are unsure or unsteady, practise in one of the inner city parks first. Wear a helmet, particularly if you are planning on cycling on the roads. If in doubt, dismount: many novices cross busy junctions on foot; if you do so, switch to the pedestrian section of the crossing. Beware of tram tracks; cross them at an angle to avoid getting stuck.

Do not walk with your bike in a bike lane or cycle on pavements, on the left side of the road, in pedestrian zones or at night without lights. If caught doing so you will face a hefty fine.

Bicycle Tours Guided bicycle tours are a popular way to discover the city and its environs. Joy Ride Tours, Mikes Bike Tours and Yellowbike Tours and Rental offer city and countryside tours. Joy Ride Tours ∑ joyridetours.nl Mikes Bike Tours ∑ mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com Yellowbike Tours and Rental ∑ yellowbike.nl

Walking Amsterdam’s city centre is compact and most of the major sights and shopping areas are within close walking distance from one another. You will save money and see more of the city on foot.

AMSTERDAM’S CANALS Hop-On, Hop-Off Canal Cruises These flexible tour boats allow you to explore the city's major sights, shopping areas and attractions at your own pace (www.lovers.nl). Canal Tours Many operators offer foreign-language commentaries. Book in advance for lunchtime, evening and dinner cruises. Small Boat Tours These tours take you along narrower canals that large canalboats can’t navigate. Boats depart every 40 minutes from the Prinsengracht boarding point (www.thosedam boatguys.com). Water Taxis Exclusive water taxis are much more convenient than canalboats; they are also significantly more expensive (www.aemstelland.nl). Private Boat Hire A licence is not required to rent a boat, but ensure you are clued up on local boating regulations (www.boaty.nl). Canal Bikes These two- or four-seater pedalboats can be hired for around €10 per hour. They can be left at any of the canal-bike moorings in the city, but must not enter the harbour or western port (www. stromma.com).

227

NEED TO KNOW Practical Information

PRACTICAL

INFORMATION A little local know-how goes a long way in Amsterdam. Here you will find all the essential advice and information you will need during your stay. AT A GLANCE EMERGENCY NUMBER GENERAL EMERGENCY

112 TIME ZONE

CET/CEST Central European Summer Time (CEST) runs Apr– Oct

TAP WATER

Unless otherwise stated, tap water in the Netherlands is safe to drink.

WEBSITES AND APPS

www.iamsterdam.com The official tourist information network Instabridge Accessable offline, this app directs you to free Wi-Fi hot spots throughout the city centre GVB The official transport app from Amsterdam’s public transport provider NS Reisplanner The official app of the NS (Dutch national railway) VaarWater This app provides information on popular boating routes, timetables and where best to moor

228

Personal Security Amsterdam is a relatively safe city to visit, where you only really need to fear becoming a victim of pickpocketing. Pickpockets work crowded tourist areas, trams and trains between the city centre and Schiphol airport. If you have anything stolen, report the crime as soon as possible to the nearest police station. Bring ID with you and get a copy of the crime report in order to claim on your insurance. If you have your passport stolen, or in the event of a serious crime, contact your consulate in Amsterdam or your embassy in Den Haag. As a rule, Amsterdammers are very accepting of all people, regardless of their race, gender or sexuality. Over 180 nationalities call the city home and its multiculturalism is celebrated. Homosexuality was decriminalized here in 1811, the first gay bar opened in 1927 and the Netherlands was the first country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage. If you do feel unsafe, the Safe Space Alliance pinpoints your nearest place of refuge. Safe Space Alliance ∑ safespacealliance.com

Health The Netherlands has a world-class healthcare system. EU and Australian citizens can receive emergency medical and dental treatment at a reduced charge (p223). If you have an EHIC card, be sure to present this as soon as possible. You may have to pay and reclaim the money later. For other visitors, payment of medical expenses is the patient’s responsibility. It is therefore important to arrange comprehensive medical insurance before travelling. The General Practice Center (Huisartsen­ posten Amsterdam) will direct you to the nearest pharmacy and can refer you to a GP or dentist. Minor ailments can be dealt with by a chemist (drogist). For prescriptions go to a pharmacy (apotheek). Details of the nearest 24-hour service are posted in all pharmacy windows. General Practice Center ∑ huisartsenpostenamsterdam.nl

Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs The Netherlands has a smoking ban in all public places, including bars, cafés, restaurants and hotels. Confusingly, this also applies to coffee shops, where smoking cannabis is decriminalized, but smoking tobacco is illegal. Foreign tourists were banned from entering coffee shops in 2013, although Amsterdam police tend to turn a blind eye to this. Soft drugs such as hashish and cannabis are decriminalized for personal use. Hard drugs are a different matter – anyone caught with them by the police will certainly be prosecuted. Never try to take drugs out of the Netherlands – if caught you will face prosecution. Alcohol consumption is illegal in parks, and on the streets in nightlife areas such as Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein and the Red Light District. The Netherlands has a strict limit of 0.05 per cent BAC (blood alcohol content) for drivers and cyclists.

ID In the Netherlands, everyone over the age of 14 is legally required to carry ID, including tourists. You can be fined for not having the correct ID, so carry your passport, or a photocopy of your passport, with you at all times.

Local Customs The number of tourists visiting Amsterdam has skyrocketed over the past two decades. Locals have complained about the crowds, noise and mess caused by overtourism, and the city council is taking steps to keep the city both liveable and hospitable. When you are visiting, be mindful of the locals who live here. Amsterdam has a lot to offer beside the bighitter sights. Instead of joining the crowds in the Red Light District, avoid the tourist track and coffeeshops, and take a walk in the areas beyond the centre. There are also many interesting towns and cities within easy reach of Amsterdam, just hop on the train and explore. Do not photograph sex workers in the Red Light District – this will cause anger and offence. Avoid using cameras and recording equipment in the area, as someone may mistake your intentions.

Visiting Churches and Cathedrals Dress respectfully: cover your torso and upper arms; ensure shorts and skirts cover your knees.

Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi Free Wi-Fi hot spots are widely available in Amsterdam’s city centre. Cafés and restaurants usually permit the use of their Wi-Fi on the condition that you make a purchase. Visitors travelling to Amsterdam with EU mobile phone tariffs won’t be affected by data roaming charges. Users will be charged the same rates for data, SMS and voice calls as they would pay at home.

Post Stamps (postzegels) can be bought in shops, supermarkets, newsagents or tobacconists. Send items of value by registered mail from the post office (postagentschap).

Taxes and Refunds VAT is 21 per cent in the Netherlands. Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund subject to certain conditions. Shops that stock the relevant forms will have a sign saying “Tax free for tourists”. When leaving the country, present this form at customs, along with the goods receipt and your ID, to receive your refund.

Discount Cards There are a number of visitor passes and discount cards available for Amsterdam. It is worth considering carefully how many of the offers you are likely to take advantage of before purchasing one online or at tourist offices. Valid for either 24 (€65), 48 (€80), 72 (€105) or 120 (€130) hours, the I amsterdam City Card includes unlimited travel on public transport, a canal tour and free or discounted access to most museums and attractions. The Museum Card (Museumkaart) offers discounted admission to over 400 museums in the Netherlands for one year. Under-30s can enjoy discounts on museums, festivals, fashion and more with a CJP Card. 229

INDEX

Index

Page numbers in bold type refer to main entries

Aalsmeer 197 Abseiling, Euromast (Rotterdam) 188, 214 Accommodation 223 see also Hotels A’DAM Toren 19, 47, 55, 180–81, 182 Agnietenkapel 96–7, 104 Air travel 224 Albert Cuypmarkt 12, 18, 145 Alcohol 229 Allard Pierson Museum 80 Alteration, the 53 Alva, Duke of 53 Ambulances 228 American Hotel 118 Amstelkerk 145, 150 Amstelledamme 52 Amstel River 64, 65, 139 Amstelveld, A Short Walk 150–51 Amsterdam (Dutch East Indiaman) 49, 54, 166 Amsterdam Museum 16, 74–5, 84 Amsterdam-Rhine canal 55 Amsterdam School 37 Amsterdamse Bos 38 Anglo-Dutch War, Second 54 Anne Frank Huis 16, 110–11 Antiques 161 Appel, Karel 131 Apps 228 Architecture 36–7 canal houses 117 hofjes 156 Art 28–9 genre painting 127 17th century 54 Artis 19, 175

Batavian Republic 54 Beach 39, 181 Beer 33, 146–7 Begijnhof 16, 39, 47, 78–9, 84 Berlage, Hendrik Petrus 37 Beurs van Berlage 37, 82–3 Kunstmuseum (Den Haag) 207 Beurs van Berlage 37, 82–3 Beyond Amsterdam 184–219 Bulbfields 196–7 Delft 208–11 Den Haag 202–7 Haarlem 192–5 Leiden 198–201 map 186–7 Paleis Het Loo 218–19 Rotterdam 212–15 Utrecht 216–17 Ziederzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 190–91 Bicyles hire 227 tours 227 see also Cycling BIMHUIS 41, 170 Binnenhof (Den Haag) 202 Blauwbrug 46, 145 Bloemenmarkt 18, 146 Boat hire 227 Boat trips 48–9, 227 Boerhaave, Herman 200 Borch, Gerard ter 204 Bosch, Hieronymus 215 Bridges 82 Blauwbrug 46, 145, 151 Magere Brug 46, 65, 149, 151 Torensluis 80–81 “Brown cafés” 18, 229 Bruegel, Jan II 194 Bruegel, Peter 215 Bruna, Dick 217 Budgeting 222 Budget travel 42–3 Bulbfields 39, 47, 188, 196–7 Bus travel 224, 226

B

C

B&Bs 223 Banksy 34, 132 Bars and pubs 12, 41 Museum Quarter 135 Nieuwe Zijde 83 Noord 181 Oude Zijde 96 Plantage 171

Cafés “brown cafés” 18, 229 Central Canal Ring 115 Eastern Canal Ring 144 Jordaan and the Western Islands 157 Leiden 200 Museum Quarter 135

17th century 54, 57, 127, 166 Haarlem 192, 194 Leiden 198

A

230

Cafés (cont.) Nachtcafés 41 Nieuwe Zijde 83 Noord 183 Oude Zijde 96 Plantage 171 see also Bars and pubs; Restaurants Canal bikes 31, 227 Canals A Canal Walk 56–65 Amsterdam on the Water 48–9 canal-house architecture 117 cruising 10, 48, 227 Museum of Canals 112 trips and tours 227 Cannabis 98, 104, 229 Car rental 226 Car travel 226 Cash 223 Castles and fortifications Binnenhof (Den Haag) 202 De Burcht (Leiden) 201 Haarlemmerpoort 160– 61 Montelbaanstoren 98 Munttoren 80 Schreierstoren 103 see also Palaces Cathedrals see Churches and cathedrals Central Canal Ring 106–19 A Short Walk: Leidsebuurt 118–19 hotels 116 map 108–9 restaurants 115 shopping 112 Chagall, Marc Fiddler, The 131 Charles V, Emperor 53 Children 30–31 cycling with 31, 44 Churches and cathedrals Agnietenkapel 96–7, 104 Amstelkerk 145, 150 De Krijtberg 112, 119 Domkerk (Utrecht) 216 Engelse Kerk 79 etiquette 229 Grote Kerk (Den Haag) 203 Grote Kerk (Haarlem) 193, 195 Lutherse Kerk 82 Mozes en Aäronkerk 103

Churches and cathedrals (cont.) Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) 189, 216 Nieuwe Kerk 16, 72–3, 85 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 209, 210–11 Noorderkerk 161 Oude Kerk 11, 16, 52, 90–91 Oude Kerk (Delft) 209, 210 Pieterskerk (Leiden) 199, 200–201 Sint Nicolaasbasiliek 82, 83 Vondelkerk 135 Westerkerk 18, 37, 115 Zuiderkerk 37, 98, 105 Cinemas see Entertainment CJP Card 229 Claes Claeszhofje 156 Clubs 40 Coach travel 224 CoBrA 125, 131 Coffee shops 229 Concertgebouw 41, 43, 132, 136 Concert halls see Entertainment Coster Diamonds 134, 137 Coster, Laurens Jansz 193 COVID-19 223 Credit cards 223 Crime 228 Cromhouthuis – Bijbels Museum 114, 118 Cruises canal 10, 48, 227 Europoort Harbour 213 Markermeer 191 Currency 222 Customs information 222 Cuypers, Petrus J H 36 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 209, 211 Rijksmuseum 36, 124 Vondelkerk 135 Cycling 13, 44–5 1 day by bike 24–5 Bulbfields 196 getting around Amsterdam 227 tours 227 with children 31, 44

D Daffodils 197 Dam Square 58 Day trips 225 Debit cards 223 De Burcht 174 De Gooyer Windmill 170–71 De Krijtberg 112, 119 Delft 188, 208–11 map 208–9 restaurants 211 Delftware 210

De Negen Straajes 112 Den Haag 27, 185, 188, 202–7 hotels 205 map 202 restaurants 206 Dental care 228 De Pijp 18, 37, 139 De Porceleyne Fles (Delft) 210 De Star Hofje 157 De Stijl 28 Disabled travellers 223 Discount cards 229 Domkerk (Utrecht) 216 Drink driving 229 Driving 226–7 Drugs 98, 104, 229 Dutch East Indies 54, 55 Dutch Republic 53 Dutch Revolt 53

E Eastern Canal Ring 18, 138– 51 A Short Walk: Amstelveld 150–51 hotels 147 map 140–41 restaurants 144 Economy 55 Egmont, Duke of 53 Electric Ladyland 29 Electricity supply 222 Emergency numbers 228 Engelse Kerk 79 English language 223 Enkhuizen 190 Entertainment Concertgebouw 41, 43, 132, 136 lunchtime concerts 43 Melkweg 41, 118 Musiekgebouw aan ’t IJ 19, 41, 43, 170 NDSM 181 nightlife 40–41 Pathé Tuschinski 148 Stadhuis-Nationale Opera & Ballet 98–9 Internationaal Theater Amsterdam 112, 118 see also Festivals and events Entrepotdok 19, 172–3, 174 Etiquette 229 Euromast (Rotterdam) 188, 214 European Union 55 Europoort Harbour Cruises 213 Events see Festivals and events Eyck, Hubertus van 215 EYE 183

F Fabritius, Carel 204 Felix Meritis Building 114–15 Ferries 42, 224 Festivals and events 50–51 Fiddler, The (Chagall) 131 Fire services 228 Floris V, Count of Holland 202 Foam Museum 144 Food and drink Amsterdam for Foodies 32–3 drinks 33 for children 31 Heineken Experience 33, 146–7 see also Bars and pubs; Cafés; Restaurants Former City Orphanage 119 Fortifications see Castles and fortifications Franco-Dutch War 55 Frank, Anne Anne Frank Huis 110–11 diary 34, 111 Frans Hals Museum Hal (Haarlem) 194 Frans Hals Museum Hof (Haarlem) 188, 194 Frederick Henry of Orange 53 Free attractions 42

G Galerij Prins Willem V (Den Haag) 206–7 Gelderland 189 Gérard, Balthasar 208 German occupation 55 Girl with a Pearl Earring (Vermeer) 29, 204, 211 Golden Bend 46, 107, 116–17, 119 Grachtengordel 16, 142, 150, 153 Grachtenmuseum Amsterdam 112, 119 Grote Kerk (Den Haag) 203 Grote Kerk (Haarlem) 193, 195 Grote Markt (Haarlem) 192, 195

H Haarlem 185, 188, 192–5 map 192–3 Haarlemmerpoort 160–61 Habsburg dynasty 53 Hals, Frans 194, 195 Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum 98, 104 Health 228 insurance 222–3 Heineken Experience 33, 146–7

231

Index 232

Hemp 98, 104 Herengracht 57, 61–3, 107, 116–17, 119 Hermitage Amsterdam 173 Herrings 190 Grachtenmuseum Amsterdam 112, 119 Het Houten Huis 79 Het Loo, Paleis 189, 218–19 Het Schip 37, 160 Historic buildings A Canal Walk 56–65 Anne Frank Huis 16, 110–11 Begijnhof 16, 39, 47, 78–9, 84 Beurs van Berlage 37, 82–3 Claes Claeszhofje 156 De Burcht 174 De Star Hofje 157 Felix Meritis Building 114–15 Former City Orphanage 119 Golden Bend 116–17 Grachtenmuseum Amsterdam 112, 119 Het Houten Huis 79 hofjes, Dutch 156 Magna Plaza 81 Moederhuis 174 Museum Willet-Holthuysen 142–3 Oostindisch Huis 105 Oudemanhuispoort 104 Het Schip 37, 160 Stadhuis (Haarlem) 195 Stadsarchief Amsterdam 148–9 Trippenhuis 105 Vleeshal (Delft) 209 Vleeshal (Haarlem) 193, 194 VondelCS 132–3 Waag 96, 105 Zon’s Hofje 157 History 52–5 Hofjes 18, 156, 157 Hollandsche Manege 134 Hollandsche Schouwburg 170, 174 Holocaust Namenmonument 172 Holy Roman Empire 53 Homomonument 114 Hoorn, Duke of 53 Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam 19, 38, 171, 174 Hortus Botanicus Leiden 199, 200 Hostels 223 Hotels 223 Central Canal Ring 116 Den Haag 205 Eastern Canal Ring 147 Nieuwe Zijde 79 Noord 181 Oude Zijde 99 Plantage 173

Houseboat Museum 156 Houseboats 156 Hulsdonck, Jacob van 204 Hyacinths 197

I Iamsterdam 223, 228 Iamsterdam City Card 29, 229 ID 229 IJ-Hallen 182 IJmeer 48 IJ river 42, 48, 177 IJsselmeer 191 Industrialization 54 Insurance 222–3 International Court of Justice (Den Haag) 188, 207 Internet access 229 Itineraries 20–27 1 day by bike 24–5 2 days 22–3 2 days beyond Amsterdam 26–7 5 hours 20–21

J

Jazz 41 Jenever 11, 16, 33 Jews in Amsterdam 93 Anne Frank Huis 110–11 Hollansche Schouwburg 170, 174 Joods Historisch Museum 12, 92–3 Ravensbrück monument 137 World War II 55 Joods Historisch Museum 12, 92–3 Jordaan, Johnny 160 Jordaan and the Western Islands 18, 152–61 map 154–5 restaurants 157 shopping 161

K Kaagman, Hugo 35, 191 Kalverstraat 84 Keizersgracht 16, 57, 59, 60–61, 107 Keukenhof (Lisse) 39, 197 Key, Lieven de 193, 194 Keyser, Hendrick de 37 Montelbaanstoren 98 Munttoren 80 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 211 Noorderkerk 161 Stedelijk Museum 130

Keyser, Hendrick de (cont.) Westerkerk 37, 115 Zuiderkerk 37, 98 Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 131 Kitchen Maid, The (Vermeer) 125, 127 Kobra, Eduardo 35 Koninklijk Paleis 16, 79, 85 Koolhaas, Rem 214 Kooning, Willem de 131 Kubuswoningen (Rotterdam) 213 Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 214 Kunstmuseum Den Haag 207

L Language 223 key phrases 222 phrase book 237–8 Leiden 27, 185, 188, 198–201 map 198–9 restaurants 200 Leidsebuurt, A Short Walk 118–19 Leidsegracht 116, 118 Leidseplein 16, 35, 118 LGBT+ 40 Homomunument 114 Pride Amsterdam 51 Lisse 197 Living statues 34 Lutherse Kerk 82

M Maastricht, siege of 53 Madurodam (Den Haag) 188, 204–5 Magere Brug 46, 65, 149, 151 Magna Plaza 81 Malevich, Kazimir 131 Maps A Canal Walk 56–65 Around the Netherlands 15 A Short Walk: Amstelveld 150–51 A Short Walk: Leidsebuurt 118–19 A Short Walk: Museum Quarter 136–7 A Short Walk: Nieuwe Zijde 84–5 A Short Walk: Plantage 174–5 A Short Walk: University District 104–5 Beyond Amsterdam 186–7 Central Canal Ring 108–9 Delft 208–9 Den Haag 202 Eastern Canal Ring 140–41 Explore Amsterdam 14–15 Haarlem 192–3

Maps (cont.) Jordaan and the Western Islands 154–5 Leiden 198–9 Museum Quarter 122–3 Netherlands 186–7 Nieuwe Zijde 70–71 Noord 178–9 Oude Zijde 88–9 Plantage 164–5 Rotterdam 213 Utrecht 217 Marijuana 98, 104, 229 Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 49, 212 Markermeer 188, 191 Markets Albert Cuypmarkt 12, 18, 43, 145 Bloemenmarkt 18, 146 Christmas 51 IJ-Hallen 182 Pekmarkt 182–3 Waterlooplein 102–3 Marnix Bowl 35 Maurice of Nassau 53 Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 29, 188, 204, 205 Medical services 228 Melkweg 41, 118 Menus 32 Metro 226 Miffy 217 Militia companies 134 Mobile phones 229 Moco Museum 34, 132 Mondriaan, Piet 28, 130, 139, 207 Money 222 Montelbaanstoren 47, 98 Mozes en Aäronkerk 103 Munttoren 80 Museum boats 49, 227 Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 215 Museum Bredius (Den Haag) 202–3 Museum Card 229 Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) 189, 216 Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) 200 Museum Haarlem (Haarlem) 195 Museum Het Rembrandthuis 11, 29, 94–5, 105 Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder 16, 76–7 Museum Quarter 17, 120–37 A Short Walk 136–7 map 122–3 restaurants 135

Museum Speelklok (Utrecht) 216 Museum’t Kromhout 172 Museum Van Loon 146 Museum Volkenkunde (Leiden) 201 Museum Willet-Holthuysen 18, 142–3, 150 Museums and galleries Allard Pierson Museum 80 Amsterdam Museum 16, 35, 74–5, 84 art galleries, offbeat 29 Cromhouthuis – Bijbels Museum 114, 118 EYE 183 Foam Museum 144 for children 31 Frans Hals Museum Hal (Haarlem) 194 Frans Hals Museum Hof (Haarlem) 188, 194 free entry 43 Galerij Prins Willem V (Den Haag) 206–7 Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum 98, 104 Heineken Experience 33, 146–7 Hermitage Amsterdam 173 Houseboat Museum 156 Joods Historisch Museum 12, 92–3 Kattenkabinet 62, 117 Kochxbos 29 Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 214 Kunstmuseum Den Haag 207 Madame Tussauds Scenerama 85 Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 49, 212 Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 29, 188, 204, 205 Micropia 174 Moco Museum 34, 132 Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 215 Museum Bredius (Den Haag) 202–3 Museum of Canals 112 Museum Catharijneconvent (Utrecht) 189, 216 Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) 200 Museum Haarlem (Haarlem) 195 Museum Het Rembrandthuis 11, 29, 94–5, 105 Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder 16, 76–7 Museum Speelklok (Utrecht) 216

Museums and galleries (cont.) Museum’t Kromhout 172 Museum Van Loon 146 Museum Volkenkunde (Leiden) 201 Museum Willet-Holthuysen 18, 142–3, 150 Nederlands Fotomuseum (Rotterdam) 215 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum (Utrecht) 189, 217 NEMO Science Museum 36, 46, 99 Nijntje Museum (Utrecht) 217 Paleis Het Loo 189, 218–19 Panorama Mesdag (Den Haag) 205 Pianola en Piano Museum 160 Rijksmuseum 10, 17, 29, 36, 124–7, 137 Rijksmuseum Boerhaave (Leiden) 199, 200 Rijksmuseum Gevangenpoort (Den Haag) 203 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Leiden) 199, 201 Het Scheepvaartmuseum 13, 19, 166–7 Stedelijk Museum 17, 28, 130–31, 136 Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof (Delft) 208, 211 STRAAT 29, 34, 181 Teylers Museum (Haarlem) 192 Tropenmuseum 19, 168–9 Van Gogh Museum 13, 16, 28, 128–9, 136 Vermeer Centrum Delft 211 Versetsmuseum 172 Wereldmuseum Rotterdam 213 Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 188, 190–91 see also Castles and fortifications; Historic buildings; Palaces Music live 41 see also Entertainment Musiekgebouw aan ’t IJ 19, 41, 43, 170

N Napoleonic Wars 54 Nationaal Holocaust Museum 170, 174 Nationaal Monument 16, 55, 80, 85 NDSM 34, 181 Nederlands Fotomuseum (Rotterdam) 215

233

Index

Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum (Utrecht) 189, 217 NEMO Science Museum 36, 46, 99 Nes 85 Netherlands and You website 222 Nieuwe Kerk 16, 72–3, 85 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 209, 210–11 Nieuwe Zijde 16, 68–85 A Short Walk 84–5 bars and pubs 83 hotels 79 map 70–71 restaurants 81 Nieuwmarkt 97, 105 Nightlife 12, 40–41 Night Watch, The (Rembrandt) 29, 125, 126 Nijntje Museum (Utrecht) 217 Noord 19, 55, 176–83 hotels 181 map 178–9 regeneration 182 restaurants 181, 183 Noorderkerk 161 Noord-Holland 188

O Off-road cycling 45 Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Museum 16, 76–7 Oosterpark 172 Oostindisch Huis 105 Opening hours 223 Orange, House of 54 Oude Kerk 11, 16, 52, 90–91 Oude Kerk (Delft) 209, 210 Oudemanhuispoort 104 Oude Zijde 16, 86–105 A Short Walk: University District 104–5 bars and pubs 96 hotels 99 map 88–9 restaurants 102

P Palaces Koninklijk Paleis 16, 79, 85 Paleis Het Loo 189, 218–19 Vredespaleis (Den Haag) 206 Paleis Het Loo 189, 218–19 Panorama Mesdag (Den Haag) 205 Parks and gardens Amsterdam Outdoors 38–9 Amsterdamse Bos 38 for children 30

234

Parks and gardens (cont.) Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam 19, 38, 171, 174 Hortus Botanicus Leiden 199, 200 Keukenhof (Lisse) 39, 197 Oosterpark 172 open-air performances 42 Paleis Het Loo 189, 218, 219 Rijksmuseum gardens 137 Vondelpark 38, 132, 133 Westerpark 18, 160 Parliament 202 Passports 222 Pathé Tuschinski 148 Pedalboats 48 Pekmarkt 182–3 Personal security 228 Philip II of Spain 53, 208, 211 Photography 46–7 etiquette 229 Nederlands Fotomuseum (Rotterdam) 215 Phrase book 237–8 Pianola en Piano Museum 160 Piano, Renzo 36 Picasso, Pablo 130, 207 Pickpockets 228 Picnics 38, 43 Pieterskerk (Leiden) 199, 200–201 Planetarium 174 Plantage 19, 162–75 A Short Walk 174–5 hotels 173 map 164–5 restaurants 171 Pllek 39, 181 Police 228 Population 55 Portugese Synagoge 102 Postal services 229 Pottery Delftware 210 Royal Delft 210 Prices average daily spend 222 public transport 224 Prinsengracht 16, 18, 57, 107 Public holidays 223 Public transport 224, 225–6

R Rail travel see Train travel Randstad 185 Ray, Man 215 Reasons to love Amsterdam 10–13 Red Light District 16, 40, 97, 104, 229 Reformation 53

Reguliersgracht 57, 63, 64–5, 139 Rembrandt 29 Leiden 198 Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 204 Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 215 Museum Het Rembrandtshuis 11, 29, 94–5, 105 Night Watch, The 29, 125, 126, 134 sitters 95 Rembrandtplein 150 Resistance, Dutch 172 Restaurants 32–3 Central Canal Ring 115 Delft 211 Den Haag 206 Eastern Canal Ring 144 for children 31 Jordaan and the Western Islands 157 Leiden 200 Museum Quarter 135 Nieuwe Zijde 81 Noord 181, 183 Oude Zijde 102 Plantage 171 Rotterdam 212 Utrecht 216 Rijksmuseum 10, 17, 29, 36, 124–7, 137 Rijksmuseum Boerhaave (Leiden) 199, 200 Rijksmuseum Gevangenpoort (Den Haag) 203 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Leiden) 199, 201 Rijn (Rhine) river 212 Road travel 226–7 Rollerblading 132 Rotterdam 185, 188, 212–15 map 213 restaurants 212 Royal Delft 210 Rules of the road 44, 227

S Safety cyling 227 government advice 222 personal security 228 Sailing 49, 191 Scheepvaartmuseum, Het 13, 19, 166–7 Schiphol Airport 224 Schreierstoren 103 Shipbuilding 172, 177

Shopping Central Canal Ring 112 Jordaan and the Western Islands 161 opening hours 223 see also Markets Singelgracht 18, 57, 58–9, 153 Sint Nicolaasbasiliek 82, 83 Six, Jan 62 Skateboard displays 35 Smoking 229 Specific requirements, travellers with 223 Speed limit 224 Stadhuis (Haarlem) 195 Stadhuis-Nationale Opera & Ballet 98–9 Stadsarchief Amsterdam 148–9 Internationaal Theater Amsterdam 112, 118 Stalpaert, Daniel 57, 61 Amstelkerk 145 Leidsegracht 116 Het Scheepvaartmuseum 166 Stedelijk Museum 17, 29, 130–31, 136 Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof (Delft) 208, 211 Steen, Jan, Woman at her Toilet 127 Street art 10, 29, 34, 181 Street culture 34–5 Street food 12, 33 Street musicians 35 Synagogues Dritt Shul 92, 93 Grote Synagoge 92, 93 Nieuwe Synagoge 92 Obbene Shul 92, 93 Portugese Synagoge 102

T Tandem bicycles 45 Tasman, Abel 54 Taxes 229 Taxis 226 to/from airport 224 water 227 Telephone services 229 Theatres see Entertainment Tickets, public transport 226 Time zone 228 Tinguely, Jean 131 Tipping 223 Tobacco 229 Toilets 31 Torensluis 80–81 Train travel domestic 225 international 225 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum (Utrecht) 189, 217

Trams 226 Travel getting around 224–7 government advice 222 Trippenhuis 105 Tropenmuseum 19, 168–9 Tugboats 49 Tulips 197 festivals 50 tulip mania 146

U United East India Company (VOC) 54, 98, 105, 172 University District, A Short Walk 104–5 Utrecht 27, 185, 189, 216–17 map 217 restaurants 216

V

Vaccinations 223 Van Gogh, Vincent life 28, 129 Van Gogh Museum 17, 28, 128–9, 136 Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles 28, 128 VAT refunds 229 Vermeer, Jan 29 birthplace (Delft) 208 Girl with a Pearl Earring 29, 204, 211 Kitchen Maid, The 125, 127 nickname 209 Vermeer Centrum Delft 211 Versetsmuseum 172 Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles (Van Gogh) 28, 128 Visas 222 Vleeshal (Delft) 209 Vleeshal (Haarlem) 193, 194 VondelCS 132–3 Vondel, Joost van den 133 Vondelkerk 135 Vondelpark 38, 132, 133 Vredespaleis (Den Haag) 206

W Waag 96, 105 Walks A Canal Walk 56–65 A Short Walk: Amstelveld 150–51 A Short Walk: Leidsebuurt 118–19 A Short Walk: Museum Quarter 136–7 A Short Walk: Nieuwe Zijde 84–5

Walks (cont.) A Short Walk: Plantage 174–5 A Short Walk: University District 104–5 Waterlooplein 102–3 Water taxis 227 Websites 228 Wereldmuseum Rotterdam 213 Westerkerk 18, 37, 115 Western Islands see Jordaan and the Western Islands Westerpark 18, 160 West India Company 54 “White bikes” 45 Wi-Fi 229 Wildlife Artis 19, 175 Hollandsche Manege 134 Willet-Holthuysen, Museum 18, 142–3, 150 William I of the Netherlands 54, 73 William II of Orange 53 William III of England 218, 219 William III of the Netherlands 124, 161, 212 William of Orange 53, 73, 198, 200, 208 assassination of 53, 208, 211 mausoleum (Delft) 211 William the Silent see William of Orange Windmills De Gooyer Windmill 170–71 Leiden 201 Molen De Adriaan (Haarlem) 192 Wine 33 Wit, Jacob de 60 Woman at her Toilet (Steen) 127 World War II 55 Anne Frank Huis 16, 110–11 Holocaust Namenmonument 172 Nationaal Holocaust Museum 170, 174 Nationaal Monument 80 Ravensbrück monument 137 Versetsmuseum 172

Z Zon’s Hofje 157 Zuiderkerk 37, 98, 105 Zuiderzee 185 Zuiderzeemuseum (Enkhuizen) 188, 190–91 Zuiderzee (schooner) 49, 191 Zuid-Holland 188

235

PHRASE BOOK IN EMERGENCY Help! Stop! Call a doctor Call an ambulance Call the police Call the fire brigade Where is the nearest telephone? Where is the nearest hospital?

Help! Stop! Bel een dokter Bel een ambulance Bel de politie Bel de brandweer Waar is de dichtstbijzijnde telefoon? Waar is het dichtstbijzijnde ziekenhuis?

Help Stop Haal uhn dok-tur Bell uhn ahm-bewluhns-uh Roop duh poe-leetsee Roop duh brahntvheer Vhaar iss duh dikhst-baiy-zaiynduh tay-luh-foan Vhaar iss het dikhst-baiy-zaiynduh zee-kuh-houws

COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS Yes No Please Thank you Excuse me Hello Goodbye Good night morning afternoon evening yesterday today tomorrow here there What? When? Why? Where? How?

Ja Nee Alstublieft Dank u Pardon Hallo Dag Slaap lekker Morgen Middag Avond Gisteren Vandaag Morgen Hier Daar Wat? Wanneer? Waarom? Waar? Hoe?

Yaa Nay Ahls-tew-bleeft Dahnk-ew Pahr-don Hallo Dahgh Slaap lek-kah Mor-ghuh Mid-dahgh Ah-vohnd Ghis-tern Vahn-daagh Mor-ghuh Heer Daar Vhat Vhan-eer Vhaar-om Vhaar Hoo

USEFUL PHRASES How are you? Very well, thank you How do you do? See you soon That’s fine Where is/are? How far is it to…? How do I get to …? Do you speak English? I don’t understand Could you speak slowly? I’m sorry

Hoe gaat het ermee? Heel goed, dank u

Hoo ghaat het er-may Hayl ghoot, dahnk ew Hoe maakt u het? Hoo maakt ew het Tot ziens Tot zeens Prima Pree-mah Waar is/zijn? Vhaar iss/zayn Hoe ver is Hoo vehr iss het naar…? het naar… Hoe kom ik naar…? Hoo kom ik naar… Spreekt u engels? Spraykt ew eng-uhls Ik snap het niet Kunt u langzamer praten? Sorry

Ik snahp het neet Kuhnt ew lahngzahmer praa-tuh Sorry

USEFUL WORDS

236

big small hot cold good bad enough well open closed left right straight on near far up down

groot klein warm koud goed slecht genoeg goed open gesloten links rechts rechtdoor dichtbij ver weg omhoog naar beneden

early late entrance exit toilet occupied free (unoccupied) free (no charge)

vroeg laat ingang uitgang wc bezet vrij gratis

ghroaht klaiyn vharm khowt ghoot slekht ghuh-noohkh ghoot open ghuh-slow-tuh links rekhts rehkht dohr dikht baiy vehr vhekh om-hoakh naar buh-nayduh vroohkh laat in-ghahng ouht-ghang vhay say buh-zett vraiy ghraah-tiss

MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL I’d like to place a long-distance call

Ik wil graag interlokaal telefoneren

Ik wil ’collect call’ bellen Ik probeer het later nog wel eens Can I leave a Kunt u een message? boodschap doorgeven? Could you speak Wilt u wat harder a little louder please? praten? Local call Lokaal gesprek I’d like to call collect I’ll try again later

Ik vhil ghraakh inter-loh-kaahl tay-luh-foe-nehruh Ik vhil ’collect call’ bel-luh Ik pro-beer het later nokh vhel ayns Kuhnt ew uhn boatskhahp dohr-ghayvuh Vhilt ew vhat hahrup der praah-tuh Low-kaahl ghuhsprek

SHOPPING How much does this cost? I would like Do you have…? I’m just looking Do you take credit cards? Do you take travellers’ cheques? What time do you open? What time do you close? This one That one expensive cheap size white black red yellow green blue

Hoeveel kost dit?

Hoo-vayl kost dit

Ik wil graag Heeft u…? Ik kijk alleen even Neemt u credit cards aan? Neemt u reischeques aan? Hoe laat gaat u open? Hoe laat gaat u dicht? Deze Die duur goedkoop maat wit zwart rood geel groen blauw

Ik vhil ghraakh Hayft ew… Ik kaiyk alleyn ay -vuh Naymt ew credit cards aan Naymt ew raiyssheks aan Hoo laat ghaat ew opuh Hoo laat ghaat ew dikht Day-zuh Dee dewr ghoot-koap maat vhit zvhahrt roat ghayl ghroon blah-ew

TYPES OF SHOPS antique shop bakery bank bookshop butcher cake shop

antiekwinkel bakker bank boekwinkel slager banketbakkerij

cheese shop chip shop chemist (dispensing) delicatessen department store fishmonger greengrocer hairdresser market newsagent post office shoe shop supermarket tobacconist

kaaswinkel patatzaak apotheek delicatessen warenhuis viswinkel groenteboer kapper markt krantenwinkel postkantoor schoenenwinkel supermarkt sigarenwinkel

travel agent

reisburo

ahn-teek-vhin-kul bah-ker bahnk book-vhin-kul slaakh-er bahnk-et-bahk-eraiy kaas-vhin-kul pah-taht-zaak ah-poe-taiyk daylee-kah-tes-suh vhaar-uh-houws viss-vhin-kul ghroon-tuh-boor kah-per mahrkt krahn-tuh-vhin-kul pohst-kahn-tor sghoo-nuh-vhin-kul sew-per-mahrkt see-ghaa-ruhvhin-kul raiys-bew-roa

galerie busstation kathedraal kerk op feestdagen gesloten dagretour tuin bibliotheek museum station retourtje enkeltje VVV stadhuis trein Ov-chipkaart

ghaller-ee buhs-stah-shown kah-tuh-draal kehrk op fayst-daa-ghuh ghuh-slow-tuh dahgh-ruh-tour touwn bee-bee-yo-tayk mew-zay-uhm stah-shown ruh-tour-tyuh eng-kuhl-tyuh fay fay fay staht-houws traiyn oh-vay-chip-kaahrt

SIGHTSEEING art gallery bus station cathedral church closed on public holidays day return garden library museum railway station return ticket single journey tourist information town hall train travel pass

STAYING IN A HOTEL Zijn er nog kamers vrij? een twee persoonskamer met een twee persoonsbed een kamer met een lits-jumeaux eenpersoonskamer kamer met bad douche kruier Ik heb gereserveerd

Zaiyn er nokh kaamers vray uhn tvhay-per soans-kaa-mer met uhn tvhay-per soans beht uhn kaa-mer met uhn lee-zjoo-moh ayn-per-soans-kaamer kaa-mer met baht doosh krouw-yuh Ik hehp ghuh-raysehr-veert

Have you got a table? I want to reserve a table The bill, please

Is er een tafel vrij? Ik wil een tafel reserveren Mag ik afrekenen

I am a vegetarian

Ik ben vegetariër

waitress/waiter menu cover charge wine list glass bottle knife fork spoon breakfast lunch dinner main course starter, first course dessert dish of the day bar café rare medium well done

serveerster/ober de kaart het couvert de wijnkaart het glas de fles het mes de vork de lepel het ontbijt de lunch het diner het hoofdgerecht het voorgerecht het nagerecht het dagmenu het cafe het eetcafe rare medium doorbakken

Iss ehr uhn tah-fuhl vraiy Ik vhil uhn tah-fuhl ray-sehr-veer-uh Mukh ik ahf-raykuh-nuh Ik ben fay-ghuhtaahr-ee-er Sehr-veer-ster/oh-ber duh kaahrt het koo-vehr duh vhaiyn-kaart het ghlahss duh fless het mess duh fork duh lay-pul het ont-baiyt duh lernsh het dee-nay het hoaft-ghuh-rekht het vohr-ghuh-rekht het naa-ghuh-rekht het dahgh-munh-ew het kaa-fay het ayt-kaa-fay rare medium dohr-bah-kuh

Do you have a vacant room? double room with a double bed twin room single room room with a bath shower porter I have a reservation

EATING OUT

MENU DECODER aardappels azijn biefstuk bier, pils boter brood/broodje cake, taart, gebak carbonade chocola citroen cocktail droog eend ei garnalen gebakken gegrild gekookt gepocheerd gerookt geroosterd brood groenten ham haring hutspot ijs jenever kaas kabeljauw kip knoflook koffie kool, rode of witte kreeft kroket lamsvlees lekkerbekje mineraalwater

aard-uppuhls potatoes aah-zaiyn vinegar beef-stuhk steak beer, pilss beer boater butter broat/broat-yuh bread/roll ‘cake’, taahrt, ghuh-bahk cake, pastry kahr-bow-naa-duh pork chop show-coa-laa chocolate see-troon lemon cocktail cocktail droakh dry aynt duck aiy egg ghahr-naah-luh prawns ghuh-bah-ken fried ghuh-ghrillt grilled ghuh-koakt boiled ghuh-posh-eert poached ghuh-roakt smoked ghuh-roas-tert broat toast ghroon-tuh vegetables hahm ham haa-ring herring huht-spot hot pot aiyss ice, ice cream yuh-nay-vhur gin kaas cheese kah-buhl-youw cod kip chicken knoff-loak garlic coffee coffee coal, roe-duh off cabbage, red or vhit-uh white krayft lobster crow-ket ragout in breadcrumbs, deep fried lahms-flayss lamb lek-kah-bek-yuh fried fillet of haddock meener-aahlmineral water vhaater

mosterd niet scherp olie paling pannenkoek patat frites peper poffertjes

moss-tehrt neet skehrp oh-lee paa-ling pah-nuh-kook pah-taht freet pay-per poffer-tyuhs

rijst rijsttafel rode wijn rookworst rundvlees saus schaaldieren scherp schol soep stamppot suiker thee tosti uien uitsmijter

raiyst raiys-tah-ful roe-duh vhaiyn roak-vhorst ruhnt-flayss souwss skaahl-deeh-ruh skehrp sghol soup stahm-pot souw-ker tay toss-tee ouw-yuh ouht-smaiy-ter

varkensvlees vers fruit verse jus

vahr-kuhns-flayss fehrss frouwt vehr-suh zjhew

vis vlees water witte wijn worst zout

fiss flayss vhaa-ter vhih-tuh vhaiyn vhorst zouwt

mustard mild oil eel pancake chips pepper tiny buckwheat pancakes rice Indonesian meal red wine smoked sausage beef sauce shellfish hot (spicy) plaice soup sausage stew sugar tea cheese on toast onions fried egg on bread with ham pork fresh fruit fresh orange juice fish/seafood meat water white wine sausage salt

NUMBERS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

een twee drie vier vijf zes zeven acht negen tien elf twaalf dertien veertien vijftien zestien zeventien achttien negentien twintig eenentwintig

30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1000 1,000,000

dertig veertig vijftig zestig zeventig tachtig negentig honderd duizend miljoen

ayn tvhay dree feer faiyf zess zay-vuh ahkht nay-guh teen elf tvhaalf dehr-teen feer-teen faiyf-teen zess-teen zayvuh-teen ahkh-teen nay-ghuh-teen tvhin-tukh aynuh-tvhintukh dehr-tukh feer-tukh faiyf-tukh zess-tukh zay-vuh-tukh tahkh-tukh nayguh-tukh hohn-durt douw-zuhnt mill-yoon

een minuut een uur een half uur half twee een dag een week een maand een jaar maandag dinsdag woensdag donderdag vrijdag zaterdag zondag

uhn meen-ewt uhn ewr uhn hahlf ewr hahlf tvhay uhn dahgh uhn vhayk uhn maant uhn jaar maan-dahgh dins-dahgh vhoons-dahgh donder-dahgh vraiy-dahgh zaater-dahgh zon-dahgh

TIME one minute one hour half an hour half past one a day a week a month a year Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

237

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS DK would like to thank the following for their contribution to the previous edition: Robin Gauldie, Robin Pascoe, Christopher Catling, Helen Peters

Anne Frank Huis: Cris Toala Olivares 111tl, 111tr, 111cla.

The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs:

AWL Images: Francesco Riccardo Iacomin 184-5; Ian Trower 46b.

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Museum Prinsenhof Delft: 211t; Marco Zwinkels 208bl.

Hotel des Indes: 26t.

Oude Kerk, Amsterdam: 91tr, NA – Christian Boltanski. © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 Installation at Oude Kerk, Amsterdam. 24 November 2017 - 29 April 2018 / GJ Van Rooij 91tl.

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Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation): Vincent van Gogh, The Bedroom, Arles, October (1888) 28bl, 128bl; Jan Kees Steenman 13br. Verzetsmuseum:

172tr.

Vondelpark Openluchttheater: 42-3. Zuiderzeemuseum: 191tr; Frank Bedijs 191cla; Erik en Petra Hesmerg 191tl; Heliante Moningka 190clb. Front flap: 123RF.com: ekinyalgin bl, Keleny tc; Alamy Stock Photo: imageBROKER / Carlos Sanchez cla; Dreamstime.com: Andreykr br; iStockphoto.com: LeoPatrizi cra; narvikk cb. Sheet map cover: Shutterstock.com: S. Borisov. Cover images: Front and Spine: Shutterstock.com: S. Borisov. Back: 123RF.com: marina99 cla, William Perry c; AWL Images: Francesco Riccardo Iacomino tr; Shutterstock.com: S. Borisov b. Cartographic Data: Lovell Johns Ltd. All other images © Dorling Kindersley For further information see: www.dkimages.com

Illustrators:

Nick Gibbard, Maltings Partnership, Derrick Stone, Martin Woodward, Arcana (Graham Bell), Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Roy Flooks, Mick Gillah, Kevin Goold, Stephan Gyapay, Chris Orr, Ian Henderson, Philip Winton, John Woodcock

This edition updated by Contributor Gerrard Van Vuuren Senior Editor Alison McGill Senior Designers Stuti Tiwari Bhatia, Tania Da Silva Gomes Project Editors Parnika Bagla, Rebecca Flynn Assistant Editor Nayan Keshan Picture Research Coordinator Sumita Khatwani Assistant Picture Research Administrator Vagisha Pushp Jacket Coordinator Bella Talbot Jacket Designer Laura O’Brien Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar Cartographer Ashif DTP Designer Rohit Rojal Senior Production Editor Jason Little Senior Production Controller Stephanie McConnell Managing Editors Shikha Kulkarni, Hollie Teague Deputy Managing Editor Beverly Smart Managing Art Editors Bess Daly, Priyanka Thakur Art Director Maxine Pedliham Publishing Director Georgina Dee

First edition 1995 Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited, One Embassy Gardens, 8 Viaduct Gardens, London SW11 7BW Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018 This book was made with Forest Stewardship Council ™ certified paper – one small step in DK’s commitment to a sustainable future. For more information go to www.dk.com/our-green-pledge

A NOTE FROM DK EYEWITNESS The rapid rate at which the world is changing is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard to ensure that this edition of Amsterdam is accurate and up-to-date, we know that opening hours alter, standards shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice we’ve got something wrong or left something out, we want to hear about it. Please get in touch at [email protected]

Copyright © 1995, 2021 Dorling Kindersley Limited A Penguin Random House Company 21 22 23 24 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN: 1542-1554 ISBN: 978-0-2414-6276-8 Printed and bound in China. www.dk.com

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