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patterns Cake is sewable, wearable, truly re-make-able, wardrobe basics for busy women everywhere. Always with pockets.

WHAT’S CAKE? sewable, wearable basics for busy women—always with pockets!

RED VELVET knit dress #0369

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patterns

MULTI-SIZE SEWING PATTERN 30–59" (76–150 cm) Proportionate Bodice Sizing 25–55" (64–140 cm) Waist Measurement Waist customization printed on pattern

sewingcake.com

by the Consulting Dressmaker

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#0369: RED VELVET KNIT DRESS KNIT DRESS The Red Velvet Knit Dress features a faced circular neckline with optional petal collar and pleated underbust seam. Choose the origami-style scissor pleated skirt, or reverse it for a at boxy-pleat effect. A cleverly concealed ticket pocket holds a few coins, cards, or lipstick. FABRIC SUGGESTION The Red Velvet Knit Dress is suited to a variety of knit fabric weights and types. Avoid very thin or bulky fabrics. Use quality stretch dance or lace fabrics for a fuss-free fancy dress. (Use underlining of equal stretch with lace.) Choose T-shirt type fabrics, double-layer jersey and doubleknits with good recovery for a daywear staple.

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SIZING/FABRIC REQUIREMENTS Choose bodice by nearest high bust measurement (bust proportions printed on pattern). Choose midriff and skirt by closest waist measurement. When between measurements, round down for a closer t and up for a more relaxed t. Fabric requirements are provided here for each section of the Red Velvet Knit Dress, allowing you to easily mix and match fabrics for the bodice, midriff, and skirt sections.

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BODICE

1/2

High Bust (in)

30–34 in 1/2 35–39

High Bust (cm)

60" wide stretch fabric

76–86 cm

yd

0.4

40–44

102–112

7

0.75

45–49

114–124

7

0.8

50–54

127–137

1

0.9

55–59

140–150

11

1.0

MIDRIFF

¼ yd

0.2 m

NOTIONS

SKIRT 60" fabric

152 cm fabric

Waist (in)

Waist (cm)

25 in

64 cm

7

27.5–32.5

70–83

1½

1.3

35–45

89–114

1¾

1.5

47.5–55

121–140

1

1.7

yd

7

0.7 m

WAIST: narrowest point

0.3 m

½

152 cm wide stretch fabric

HIGH BUST

152 cm wide stretch fabric

89–99

60" wide stretch fabric

FULL BUST

½ yd/m lightweight fusible interfacing (lighter weight than the fashion fabric) 1 yd/m ½" (12 mm) fusible stay tape matching thread ballpoint needle (match weight to fabric) 4-9 yd/m ½" (12 mm) fusible webbing (recommended for hem and neck facing) 8" (20 cm) invisible zipper (optional, for pocket)

When making entire dress from one fabric: add bodice and skirt requirements to nd total required fabric length.

© 2013 The Consulting Dressmaker, Australia. No part of this pattern may be reproduced for commercial purposes. sewingcake.com 5% of all pattern sales go to support women’s charities, especially those which promote nancial independence for women through handcraft. Please visit www.sewingcake.com/5-percent for more information on current projects. GRAPHIC DESIGN / ILLUSTRATION BY MASHEKA WOOD & MIKHAELA REID

pattern includes style variations shown

Cutting lAyouts

bodice, midriff & Pocket layout

#0369

30-35

40-55

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F

stripe/stretch

patterns

60" (152 cm) wide knit fabric

b

e

stripe/stretch

reD VelVet knit Dress

h

A

e

The Red Velve custom fit. Tak allow for fit fle

F

h

1 A

b

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Shape and scale of pattern pieces will vary. For facings C D and petal collar i , see pattern paper for notes on blockfusing. Round necklines become easily distorted. It is recommended to prepare the facings and collar this way.

skirt layout 27.5-55

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PAttern PieCes

g

g

b

A

stripe/stretch

petal collar boxy pleat invisible pocket

25

stripe/stretch

scissor pleat

g

Bodice Back (Cut 1 on fold)

ConstruCtion oVerVieW

C

i

Front Neck Facing (Cut 1 on fold)

D

1

3

C 2

8

Petal Collar (Cut 2 on fold)

11

h h

Invisible Pocket (Cut 2)

e

40–4

45

45–4

50

50–5

55

55–5

2

ProPo meAs Find th ment t Propo weare

A

0–¾ in

b

¾–1½

C

1½–3

D

3–4½

2

WAist Measu seam p skirt g

When betwee a closer fit and fabric than to

b

key to

5

P st

F 8

si se

8

Front Midriff (Cut 1 on fold) Back Midriff (Cut 1 on fold)

4

e

P fa m th

6

g

F

35–3

40

A 5

g

30–3

35

3 1

Back Neck Facing (Cut 1 on fold)

high

30

inches differenc

FOLD

D

size: h Choos high b

size

g

For optimal use of fabric, fold over only enough to accommodate pattern piece. Some 30–35s may be able to cut bodice pieces from skirt fabric requirements.

Bodice Front (Cut 1 on fold)

Use the meas tune your fit a

It is recomme to check fit.

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circular neckline

sizing

9

9

6

g

12

Skirt (Cut 2 on fold) Page patterns Red velvet © 2013 Thethe Consulting Dressmaker • sewingcake.com Graphic design / illustration by Masheka Wood & Mikhaela Reid Page11ofof4 2• •cake cake patterns red velvet © 2013 consulting dressmaker • sewingcake.com Graphic desiGn / illustration by Masheka Wood & Mikhaela reid

C in

“l co m st re l

bAsting stitCh: Longest straight stitch, do not lock stitch at beginning and end.

sizing & ProPortion The Red Velvet Knit Dress sizing relies on your measurements to create a custom fit. Take measurements carefully, but remember that knit fabrics allow for fit flexibility.

h

Use the measurements below to Customize Your Size on the pattern. Fine tune your fit and ease preferences later in the Mid-Construction Fit Check. It is recommended to baste the bodice pieces together without the facing to check fit.

1 A

on blockded to

size

high bust (in)

high bust (cm)

30

30–34 in

76–86 cm

35

35–39

89–99

40

40–44

102–112

45

45–49

114–124

50

50–54

127–137

55

55–59

140–150

2

g

e pattern fabric

size: high bust meAsurement Choose pieces b C D i and base A by high bust measurement range:

2

1

high bust

inches difference

cm difference

A

0–¾ in

0–2 cm

b

¾–1½

2–4

C

1½–3

4–8

D

3–4½

8–11

toPstitCh: Decorative and useful, a topstitch helps reinforce seams and hold seam allowances in place. Slightly longer straight stitch, 3.0 length.

All seam allowances are ½" (12 mm), except where noted.

3 WAist:

-

Finish: Use a serger/overlocker or a triple-stitch zig-zag on a sewing machine to protect seam allowances and prolong the life of your garments.

seAm AlloWAnCes

ProPortion: Full bust narrowest point meAsurement Find the difference between high bust and full bust measurement to find your proportion a-D for bodice front A . Proportion A-D may or may not correspond to the wearer’s bra cup size.

2

3

Full bust

stitCh: Construction stitch used for woven fabrics. Regular straight stitch, lock or backstitch at each end, 2.2 stitch length.

1

=

Choose bodice front A piece based on proportion rather than circumference. Alter the circumference as needed at the MidConstruction Fit Check.

instruCtions

PaRT 1 - PreP •For invisible pocket (optional): Fuse a ½" (12 mm) wide piece of fusible stay tape between ◆ markings on front midriff e and one skirt piece g .

•Stabilize back shoulder seam with ½" (12 mm) wide fusible stay tape.

b

WAist meAsurement Measurement at narrowest place on torso or at desired waist seam position. Use this to choose midriff pieces e F and skirt g .

When between the measurements given on the pattern, round down for a closer fit and round up for a more relaxed fit. It’s easier to remove extra fabric than to add it in.

key to symbols & terms Pin: Use fine, sharp pins to secure seam before stitching if desired.

•Blockfuse a 16" x 14" (41 x 36 cm) piece of fashion fabric to lightweight fusible interfacing for neck facing.

CliP: Trim or clip seam allowances or threads as indicated. “lightning bolt” stitCh: Flexible construction stitch, often a preset on modern machines. Or use a long, but narrow zig-zag stitch. Machine settings vary; test stitch and record your settings here: l ___________ W___________

C

D

•For petal collar (optional): blockfuse a 16" x 12" (41 x 30 cm) piece of collar fashion fabric to lightweight fusible interfacing. Fold in half and cut a single petal collar i piece. This will be the exterior collar. •Round necklines are easily warped during construction. Staystitch front neckline on bodice front A at seamline, taking care support the fabric while stitching to retain the neckline shape.

Page 2 of 4 • cake patterns Red velvet © 2013 The Consulting Dressmaker • sewingcake.com

heka Wood & Mikhaela reid

14" (36cm)

•Fold in half and cut facing pieces C D .

single Pin: Indicates a match-point for the seam. Press: Using the correct heat setting for the fabric type, press seams using an up-and-down motion to "set" stitches; do not drag the iron over the seam.

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nit fabric

Graphic design / illustration by Masheka Wood & Mikhaela Reid

1/2

instruCtions (ContinueD)

PaRT 2 - ConsTrUCTion 1

Stitch shoulder seam, joining bodice front A to bodice back b . Finish.

A

3

Press toward back.

(

)2 X

2

C

scisso

1/2

Use strips of fusible webbing to smoothly secure outer edge of facing to bodice. Alternatively, pin/ baste outer edge of facing in place securely and smoothly before topstitching. Working from bodice exterior, topstitch 1" (25 mm) from neck edge. Topstitch again 1 " (3 mm) from neck edge.

in

2

X 3.0

4

oPtionAl PetAl CollAr Lay interfaced collar i on top of uninterfaced collar i and stitch, pivoting at dots. Trim, turn and press, working the seam between the fingertips to create a smooth curve.

A

toPstitCh

Finish outer edge of facing: • overlock/serge/triplestitch zig-zag • lightweight binding • fold under raw edge, press and topstitch

g

Trim seam allowance. Understitch.

Stitch each end of front neck facing C to back neck facing D . press seams open.

D

C

b

Align raw edges of bodice and facing at neckline. Pin, matching shoulder seams. Stitch. When feeding the seam through the machine, make sure the interfacing is on top to prevent warping.

Repeat for second shoulder.

b

6

Understitching a Curve: Use your finger to gently press the seam toward the facing. With the facing right side up, stitch through facing and seam allowance, 1 " (3 mm) from the seamline. Gently spread the seam open as you stitch. Press. This creates a smooth curved edge and prevents the facing rolling to the exterior during wash and wear.

i

On bodice front A , create underbust pleats (if applicable) by bringing together pleat lines. Stitch from raw edge to dot. Press toward 1/2 nearest side seam.

This po insertio son on sewing

7

Finish raw edge of sleeve. Fold sleeve hem ½" (12 mm) to wrong side and press. If desired, use fusible webbing to stabilize hem. Topstitch hem " (10 mm) from folded edge.

2.0

Repeat for second sleeve. Position collar on top front neckline, matching raw edges. Baste.

b

A

Tagging: cut a 2 ½" (65 mm) length of 1" (25 mm) wide ribbon to tag the garment as shown in the illustrations. Fold to make a loop. Baste to the wrong side of the center back facing with the folded edge extending beyond the facing edge as shown in 3 .

3.0

5

Stitch front midriff e to bodice front A , right sides together. Finish. Press seam toward bodice. Repeat to join back midriff F and back bodice b . Remove bust pleat basting.

(

)2 X

Mid-Construction Fit Check: Baste together the bodice side seams and try on the bodice. See sewingcake.com/ rV-Fit-Check for tips to fine tune fit. Remove basting after checking fit and continue. If sides need ease removed, wait and remove it in 9 .

Begin per to

Repea markin

Pin zipp gether dling as at the e per and of the z ping st as show smooth

Page 3 of 24 of • cake patterns Red red velvet © 2013 The Consulting Dressmaker • sewingcake.com Graphic design / illustration Masheka Wood & Mikhaela Page 2 • cake patterns velvet © 2013 the consulting dressmaker • sewingcake.com Graphic desiGn / by illustration by Masheka Wood &Reid Mikhaela reid

6

ess up, from tch. s the

CF

g

Create tucks in skirt g by bringing together the lines marked. Baste from raw edge to dot.

4

X

Align left side tuck basting stitches at the center front (CF) of the skirt g . pin.

b

Unpin zipper tape. Lay dress front flat, face down. Pin pocket piece h to front midriff e aligning edges and ◆. Stitch in the middle of the zipper tape as shown, beginning and ending seam inside the ◆ markings.

Repeat for second pocket piece h , stitching it to the zipper tape on the skirt from just inside ◆ to ◆.

Lap tuck on right side over left, aligning all basting stitches. Baste through all layers at waist seam. Repeat for second skirt g piece.

A

(

scissor pleat

)2 X

To Make Boxy Pleat: Working from the wrong side of the fabric, tuck and fold to create a scissor pleat. Flip and reveal boxy pleat.

h

h h

2

X

Layer pocket pieces h on top of each other as shown. Stitch together from just inside ◆ to ◆. Finish. Press.

h

boxy pleat

inVisible PoCket ChAllenge

2

X

0

7

Finish lower edge of front midriff e and top edge of skirt front g . re-mark ◆ if necessary on skirt, midriff or pocket pieces h . 5 ½" (14 cm)

es eat to bust

)2 X

ice om/ after d, wait

Measure invisible zipper from top edge to 5 ½” (14cm). Mark that point on the coil. Zig-zag over the zipper coil in place at marker to create a new zipper stop. Trim zipper as shown.

e from

3.0

8

This pocket should not be a first attempt at invisible zipper insertion. To omit, skip to step 8 . For a comprehensive lesson on invisible zipper insertion, please visit sewingcake.com/invisiblezipperinsertion.

Beginning just above the top stop of the zipper, stitch zipper to lower edge of midriff between ◆ markings. Repeat, sewing other edge of zipper to skirt between ◆ markings. Sew over the pleat if necessary.

2

X

Pin zipper tape together for easier handling as shown. Stitch at the end of the zipper and at the head of the zipper, overlapping stitches slightly as shown to create a smooth seam.

Stitch lower edge of front and back midriffs e F to skirt at waist seam. Finish. press.

(

)2 X

9 If desired, baste side seams first to adjust fit and ease preferences. Stitch side seams. Finish. Press. Transfer adjustments to pattern for easier sewing next time!

(

)2 X

PaRT 3 - Finishing hem: Use a 1” (2.5 cm) hem. Put on dress and level the hem, then finish raw edge and press to wrong side. Use fusible webbing to secure the hem for ripple-free sewing. see sewingcake.com/hemming-options-for-knits.

WRONg SIDe

RIgHT SIDe INTeRFaCINg

Page 4 of 4 • cake patterns Red velvet © 2013 The Consulting Dressmaker • sewingcake.com

heka Wood & Mikhaela reid

Graphic design / illustration by Masheka Wood & Mikhaela Reid

Red Velvet Proportions

help you achieve a better bust fit using your own basic measurements.

1 Size (High Bust): Choose base bodice size according to high

bust measurement:

30 35 40 45 50 55

inches 30-34 35-39 40-44 45-49 50-54 55-59

cm 76-86 89-99 102-112 114-124 127-137 140-150

2 Proportion (Full Bust): Find the difference between high

bust and full bust measurement to find the best Red Velvet proportion for piece A : inches A B C D

cm

0 - 1.9 cm 0" - 3/4" 3/4" - 1 1/2" 1.9 - 3.8 cm 3.8 - 7.6 cm 1 1/2" - 3" 3" - 4 1/2" 7.6 - 11.4 cm

Notes from The Consulting Dressmaker: The Red Velvet Bodice Proportion may or may not correspond to wearer's bra cup size. Choose bodice front piece A based on proportion rather than raw circumference. When between measurements, round down for a closer fit. Fine-tune your ease preferences during the mid-construction fit check. Some pieces A will not require an underbust pleat.

Seam should lie directly under the bust. Measure the wearer's bust length as shown. Bust lengths are printed on all Bodice Front pieces A . Remember, knits are flexible. If the wearer's bust length is within ~3/4" (2 cm) of the pattern piece A bust length, it will still wear in the correct area. The exception is for petite frames. Size 30 should match the pattern within 3/8" (1 cm) of the wearer's bust length. Use the stripe/stretch line as a shorten/ lengthen line on A , and B . See sewingcake.com/red-velvet-shorten-lengthen for visual reference guide.

#0389 Red Velvet Knit Dress (Bodice Pieces A-B)

Paper-Efficient .pdf Printing Guide We formatted the Red Velvet bodice pieces A-B in a special way to help save paper and reduce wasted time/ink while allowing you access to the full pdf pattern in one file. This format allows you to print only the pages you need. For optimal printing, use Adobe Reader to open the cake.pdf. Printable envelope cover, instructions, and tiling overview pages are numbered “I – ix”. This means it’s simple to select only the pages you need for your size. The tiling numbers to the left and on the next page are the same as the document page. For example, to print a size 45 bodice, print pages 1-6 and 19-24. Tried & Tested Tips for printing Cake.pdf patterns: • • •

Print page 1 of the pattern and check the gauge. If it is within ¼” (6mm) of 4” (100mm), the pattern is useable. Do not scale the pattern pages when printing. Choose “Print at 100%” or “Print entire image.” Prints to A4 or US Letter size on home or copy shop printers.

Cake Pattern #0369 Red Velvet Dress Layout for PDF printing--- SKIRT.

4" (10 cm) square

50s

7 join to

40s

E G

30s

stripe/stretch

Copyright 2013

The Consulting Dressmaker

H

No part of this pattern may be reproduced for commercial purposes

patterns #0369

stripe/stretch

Invisible Pocket cut 2

37 38 39 40 41 D

Cake Patterns

Petal Collar cut 2 fabric

30s 50s 40s

30s 40s

50 45

47.5

50s

50

52.5

1 /2" (12 mm) seam allowance

55

cut 1 interfacing

place on fold

50s

30s

Back Neck Facing

/2" (12 mm) seam allowance

1

cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing

C

Front Neck Facing

cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing 1 /2" (12 mm) seam allowance

place on fold

If desired, blockfuse the fabric for Petal Collar II in a similar manner.

I

30s

40s-50s

55

Fuse interfacing to wrong side of fabric and fold entire piece in half. Position facing pieces C and D as shown. Cut.

s

s

40

This is an accurate and efficient way to cut facings. This method minimizes warping of the small facing pieces.

30

s

To Blockfuse:

7 join to self

50

Cut a block of fabric and a block of interfacing using the dotted rectangle as a guide.

place on fold

40s

Red Velvet

45 42.5

35 - 45

8 join to

25 - 32.5

40

47.5 - 55

E, F

50

47.5

45

37.5

52.5

47.5 - 55

40

55

35

30

32.5

optional invisible pocket

35

H

32.5

7

45

25

25 -

27.5

- 55

30

35 -

47.5

32.5

25 - 32.5

37.5

35 - 45

40

35

42 43 44 45 46 42.5

30

5 join to

to

Customize Your Size

25

= Bodice size = Waist size

27.5

6

Draw a line from for a custom fit.

Pleat Guide

A

patterns

Red Velvet

8 join to

G 7

E

Front Midriff

cut 1 on fold

1/2" (12 mm) seam allowance

optional invisible pocket

H center front place on fold

patterns

9 side seam

center back place on fold

Red Velvet

1

G

/2" (12 mm) seam allowance

F

cut 1 on fold

1 /2" (12 mm) seam allowance

8 join to

cut 2 on fold

Back Midriff

G

Skirt

center front / center back place on fold

47 48 49 50 51 5 join to

B

25

lengthen/shorten

30

27.5

stripe/stretch

30 35

32.5

40

35

52 53 54 55 56 37.5

45

40

42.5

50

45

47.5

47.5

45

42.5

40

37.5

35

32.5

30

27.5 25

1" (25

ance

m allow

mm) he

ist

55

50

from wa

55

52.5

length

52.5

55

finished

50

sewingcake.com/red-velvet-structured-hem

.4 cm)

23" (58

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2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

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