The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion 9781501365287, 9781501366697

Citation preview

Preface The fifth edition of The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion is a dramatic departure from previous editions. While honoring the past contributions of Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis G. Tortora, this edition responds to the needs of fashion enthusiasts and professionals for a quick, up-to-date resource that focuses on current-day usage and newly evolving fashion vocabulary. Fashion is multidimensional; The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion is inclusive of vocabulary that speaks to the aesthetic, social, cultural, material, performance, sustainability, and business dimensions of fashion. Language matters, even in our very visual discipline. The accurate use of language can reinforce professional credibility, improve productivity and quality, enhance customer satisfaction, tell a compelling story, and create an emotional connection with a product. The incorrect use of language can result in lost time, poor quality, customer dissatisfaction, returns, and loss of brand image. Language is critical in conveying authenticity, transparency, and trust. The fashion system is a complex construct that drives the creation, marketing, promotion, distribution, acquisition, consumption, and disposal or repurposing of fashion products, based on novelty and change, in order to realize economic gain. This system is undergoing a transformation that has launched technical and process innovations which have dramatically impacted the way business is done and requires a whole new lexicon to explain it. The 2020 COVID-19 pandemic served to accelerate and amplify these changes. Increasingly, business

at all levels of the supply chain can be conducted digitally. Accurate communication and dialogue are critical to delivering the right merchandise, in the right quantities, to market in a timely way. Likewise, consumers can now interact with brands through a variety of digital platforms, most of which are transactional. To move a customer to the point of purchase, accurate descriptions of fashion products that augment visual images are more important than ever. Fashion trends are increasingly dictated by the consumer, rather than fashion curators such as magazine editors and buyers. Consumers must be able to search for and communicate what it is they want from their favorite brands. The language of fashion helps all stakeholders to be more articulate in voicing their needs, preferences, aspirations, and decisionmaking criteria. Toward that end, this edition has eliminated historic terminology that is no longer in current usage; it has attempted to retain those terms that cycle in and out of fashion or help to provide context for current fashion trends. Terms that help us to understand the global nature of fashion culture have been retained. The terminology of digitization, circularity, and sustainability have been expanded. For easy reference, all terms are organized alphabetically; the use of categories as an organizing structure has been eliminated. Approximately 75 new illustrations are intended to help the reader visualize and clarify their understanding of fashion silhouettes and details. The volume’s availability as a digital reference makes it more portable for students and professionals alike.

vii

Acknowledgments The fifth edition of The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion was a major undertaking. The editorial team at Bloomsbury Publishing and reviewers suggested a major pivot from historic dress terms to a more current and diverse fashion vocabulary that is in use throughout the fashion industry today. Though terminology for this edition has been drastically edited, the Dictionary of Fashion remains indebted to the contributions of Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis G. Tortora, who amassed an incredibly comprehensive collection of historic and current fashion terms for the past four editions. The foundation they created continues to provide structure for this current edition. In order to ensure that terminology is relatively consistent in definition across the Bloomsbury library, many definitions have been updated or added directly from other Bloomsbury titles. I thank those authors for their research. A big thank you to the Bloomsbury team: Emily Samulski, acquisitions editor; Joseph Miranda, editor; and Edie Weinberg, art development editor. Their sage advice and encouragement were much appreciated as the parameters and search for new terminology and the art program evolved.

viii

Bina Abling created the illustrations that appeared in the first four editions of The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion. This new edition includes illustrations from Fairchild Books’ Technical Sourcebook for Fashion Designers, Fourth Edition and Beyond Design, Fourth Edition. New illustrations were rendered for Fairchild Books by Graphic World, Inc. Finally, Sandra Keiser would like to thank her family and friends for their support and encouragement as she battled with looming deadlines and word count goals during the isolation of the pandemic. We hope that the efforts of this team will be of value. The publisher wishes to gratefully acknowledge and thank the editorial team involved in the publication of this book: Acquisitions Editor: Emily Samulski Development Manager: Joseph Miranda Editorial Assistant: Jenna Lefkowitz Art Development Editor: Edie Weinberg In-House Designer: Louise Dugdale Production Manager: Ken Bruce Project Manager: Rebecca Willford

A: AATCC to acid wash

mortarboard gown hood

academic costume

AATCC   Acronym for American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. abandoned cart   A digital transaction where a consumer puts items in their shopping cart as though they were ready to buy, but never completes the transaction. abrasion   Rubbing of a material against itself or another surface. absorption   1. The taking up of moisture by a textile fiber, which adds comfort to the wearing of apparel. The absorption and transport properties of fabrics are critical to the success of wet processes such as dyeing, printing, and finishing. This characteristic also impacts the performance of sports clothes, active sportswear, disposable hygiene materials, and medical products. During wear, moisture retention in clothing has been found to be the most significant factor contributing to discomfort. 2. The passing of light into a surface, as in the case of fabrics that are dark or dull. absorption costing  A method for charging a percentage of operating expenses to each garment for costing purposes. abstract print   A pattern or motif not related to natural or real objects. May emphasize line, color, or geometric forms. abstracting   The process of identifying underlying similarities or differences in individual elements and interrelationships across products and design collections. academic costume  Outfits consisting of caps, called mortarboards, gowns, and hoods traditionally worn at commencement exercises or other ceremonial occasions by students and faculty. American academic costume was designed by Gardner Cottrell Leonard and adopted by the American Intercollegiate Code of 1894. The code states the style of cap, gown, and hood to be worn by

persons with bachelor’s, master’s, and doctoral degrees along with the colors to be used on the hood. acceptable quality limit (AQL)  The total amount of defects allowed for an inspection sample to be accepted. accessories   Extraneous items that complement an outfit, such as shoes, jewelry, hats, and bags. accordion bag  Bag made like an expandable filing envelope that is narrow at the top and pleated at sides and bottom. Usually made with a handle and frequently with a zipper compartment in the center. Der. From resemblance to pleats on the musical instrument of this name. accordion pleats  A series of permanent folds of equal width with alternating raised and recessed folds, named for their resemblance to the folds of the musical instrument called an accordion.

accordion pleats

acetate   (as’-uh-tayt) A generic fiber category for synthetic fibers that are chemical variants of cellulose and are manufactured from cellulose materials, such as wood chips. Acetate fibers and fabrics have a crisp hand and high luster. achromatic   A term that describes neutral colors that have no hue: black, white, and gray. acid wash  A wash process that uses bleach or bleachsoaked stones to produce a faded or frosted effect on dyed fabrics. Frequently used on denim jeans.

1

A: acquisition to African print acquisition   When company A purchases company B and assumes ownership of company B’s assets and liability for all of company B’s debts. acrylic   A generic fiber category made from polymers of acrylic acid. The resulting fiber, yarn, or fabric has a soft, wool-like hand, good wrinkle resistance, and washes and dries quickly. The fiber has a tendency to pill. acting vertical  A strategy that seeks to maximize collaboration and sharing of information throughout the supply chain, including internal collaboration that breaks down the barriers between functions, external collaboration with manufacturers and suppliers, and ongoing collaboration with consumers in order to reap the rewards of a continuous conversation. This is all implemented without necessitating central ownership of the supply chain partners. action back  The extra fullness incorporated into the back of a jacket, coat, or dress, in the form of pleats or the insertion of a stretch fabric, to permit freedom of movement.

action back

activewear/active sportswear  Any of a wide variety of apparel items designed to be worn for active sports. Not to be confused with official athletic uniforms worn by professional athletes, although such uniforms may serve as the inspiration for the design of some activewear. Many consumers wear activewear apparel not only for sports but also as casual dress. activist brand  A brand archetype that works to promote, impede, or direct social issues in order to live their values and connect with like-minded consumers. activity-based costing  A method for charging operating expenses to each garment by the number and amount of services used (for costing purposes). adaptation   Designs that have all the dominant features of the styles that inspired them but do not claim to be exact copies. adaptive clothing  Garments and accessories designed for people with physical disabilities, the elderly, and the infirm who may experience difficulties dressing themselves due to an inability to manipulate closures or a lack of full range of motion required for self-dressing.

2

additive color-mixing system   A system that explains how colored light is mixed. It is used in theater lighting, on television screens, and on computer monitors. When using the additive mixing system to mix colored light, red, green, and blue or blue-violet are the primaries; yellow, magenta, and cyan are the secondaries. When all three of the additive primaries are mixed, we see white. The light wheel illustrates the primary and secondary colors in the additive mixing system. adjustable   adj. Indicates that a garment can be modified to change aspects such as fit, appearance, and size. adjustments   Reductions in the retailer’s cost for goods which may be the result of merchandise being returned to the manufacturer or the result of problems with the merchandise. advertising   Paid communication that links a sponsor to a message. They can be presented to the public in television, magazines, radio, billboards, mailers, and social media. advertising manager   A position responsible for the advertising program of a fashion brand across multiple media outlets, including social media, television, print, and product placement. The advertising manager leads his or her team in developing the brand/seasonal ad concept, hiring of talent, and negotiating placement, all while staying within their budget parameters. They are responsible for the assessment of each season’s campaign. aerobic wear  (uh-roh′-bik) Headbands, leotards, tights, and leg warmers worn for aerobic dancing. Also called workout suit, exercise suit. aesthetic design   The perceived beauty of a design evaluated by the elements and principles of design. In apparel, aesthetic design may be evaluated based on both aesthetics and function. aesthetic obsolescence   The process of becoming outdated because an aesthetic or style is no longer desired. aesthetic properties/characteristics   1. Characteristics of textiles that convey meaning to the consumer through their expression in apparel products by means of drape and hand, luster, surface interest, and other properties. 2. The overall attractiveness of the materials, styling, and design of a garment in relation to its ­intended use. Afghan jacket/vest   A sheep- or goatskin jacket or vest made to be worn with the fleece side in and the leather side out. The inside fleece forms a shaggy border along the edges. African print  A general term used to describe bold geometric designs inspired by traditional African patterns; depending on where on the continent they were inspired, they may be carried out in browns, blacks, and whites or combinations of bright saturated colors.

A: afro to Annie Hall afro   1. A hairstyle in which tightly curled hair is worn in a full, evenly rounded shape. 2. A prefix meaning derived from Africa. ageism   Stereotyping and discrimination based on differences in age. agent   Person authorized to act on your behalf to sell your brand’s garments or to coordinate offshore sourcing. aggregated   The term for point-of-sale (POS) data when figures on individual products or stock-keeping units (SKUs) are summarized and combined by categories. agile manufacturing   The use of innovative manufacturing technologies to form an integrated, seamless exchange of information that links retailers and suppliers to the manufacturing facility, which allows product developers to be more flexible and faster in responding to consumer demands. Also called flexible manufacturing. Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)  An international agreement that eliminated quotas for the importation of apparel products in 2005. Aid to Artisans  A US organization that helps artisans to develop their products locally and market them worldwide. air malls   Retail stores in airports. A-line   Apparel styled close and narrow through the bodice at the shoulders or waist and flaring gently away from the body to the hem in a line resembling the letter A. Introduced in 1955 by Paris couturier Christian Dior. Used to describing a wide variety of apparel with this shape, including coats, dresses, jumpers, and skirts.

alphanumeric sizes  Sizing nomenclature that designates sizes by alphabetical classification followed by the numeric sizes that are incorporated into each of the alpha sizes, e.g., small (4–6), medium (8–10). ambiance   The atmosphere encountered when entering a store. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)   A nonprofit organization that develops and publishes voluntary standardized test methods for international use. amulet   An object believed to provide good luck and protection to its owner. analogous   Describes color harmonies that utilize colors positioned next to each other on the color wheel. anchor   A design from a previous season reworked in a different color of fabric. anchor store   A large store, usually a department store or mass merchant, frequently located at the end of a mall, important for drawing consumer traffic to the mall. androgynous   (an-droj′-eh-nus) adj. Possessing both male and female characteristics. angel sleeve  Any type of long, flowing sleeve. May fit smoothly into the armhole or be gathered. Sometimes split up outer arm to shoulder like a hanging sleeve.

angel sleeves A-line skirt

all-in-one facing  A facing that accommodates more than one garment area, i.e., neckline and armhole, or neckline and front edge. allover layout   See random layout. allover print  A print that covers the entire surface of the fabric from selvage to selvage in a repeat design. all-weather coat   Waterproofed or water-repellent coat, sometimes made with zip-in lining to adapt to various temperatures. alpaca   Soft, fine hair from the alpaca goat.

angora   Fine light hair combed from the angora rabbit. animal print   Design printed on fabric to imitate the skin or fur of animals. anime   A style reflecting Japanese cartoons featuring characters that are androgynous in appearance with large eyes, brightly colored streaked hair, and punk-style clothing. ankle sock/anklet  A short sock reaching only to the ankle. Annie Hall  Describing a style that was popularized by Diane Keaton in the Woody Allen film Annie Hall. It is

3

A: anomalies to apparel product developer characterized by oversized garments including baggy pants or full skirts, men’s shirts and vests, and wearing clothes in a purposefully mismatched fashion.

antimicrobial   Describes compounds spun into fibers that break down the cells of mold, mildew, and fungicausing microbes which can grow in the moisture of bedding and other textiles close to the skin. antitrust rules   In the United States, a collection of federal and state government laws that regulate the conduct and organization of business corporations. They are intended to promote competition for the benefit of consumers. Anti-waste and Circular Economy Bill   A bill passed in France in 2020 that requires producers, importers, and distributors, including online firms, to donate unsold nonfood goods except those that pose a health or safety risk. In addition, it aims for all plastic to be recyclable by 2025, and a 50 percent reduction in the use of single-use plastic bottles in the next decade.

Annie Hall look 1978

anomalies   In information analysis, data that do not fit expectations. anorak   (an′-nah-rack) Hip-length, waterproof, hooded jacket that traditionally pulled over the head. Generally, it has a drawstring hem and is sometimes lined with fur. Today the term is used somewhat interchangeably with the term “parka” (see parka), which has a zip front and drawstring hem, is insulated with down or fiberfill, and is worn for winter sports.

APAC   An acronym used to refer to Asia Pacific countries. It is generally used to describe countries in East and South Asia, Southeast Asia, and Oceania. aperture   The opening on a spectrophotometer (see spectrophotometer) that determines the size of the sample being measured. It is preferable to use the largest viewing area possible to minimize the influence of uneven dyeing. Samples measured with small viewing apertures should be measured in several locations on the same piece of fabric. apex   The highest point on the bust shape on each side of the body; it corresponds roughly to where the nipple is. Bust darts point toward the apex and end just short of it. Also called bust point. apparel   See dress. apparel contractor  A firm whose sole function is to supply sewing services to the apparel industry. Also called outside shop. apparel industry  The suppliers, apparel product developers, manufacturers, and vendors engaged in the production of ready-to-wear clothing for men, women, and children. Also called garment trade, needle trade, rag business.

anorak

anthropometric data  Data based on the ­scientific study of the measurements and proportions of the human body for the purpose of comparison and classification. Anti-Fashion Manifesto  A thought-provoking treatise by trend forecaster Li Edelkoort, published in 2015. It warns that the fashion system has reached a breaking point: it identifies and explains how the status quo in marketing and advertising, education, materials consumption, manufacturing, retailing, designer responsibilities, fashion shows, the press, and consumer behavior is no longer sustainable.

4

apparel jobber   A firm that handles the designing, planning, and purchasing of materials and usually the cutting, selling, and shipping of apparel, but not the actual garment sewing. apparel manufacturer   A firm that is primarily engaged in the cutting and sewing of garments. apparel price ranges  Prices in the apparel industry may be designated as falling into one of the following categories that form a continuum of prices from low to high: discount, mass market, moderate, better, contemporary, bridge, and designer. apparel product developer   A position that is responsible for oversight of calendar timelines, sketch/prototype stages, fit reviews, product specifications, product

A: apparel product development to art direction quality, costing, and production of apparel products. Apparel product developers manage communication and the flow of information with partners, vendors, and others to ensure a successful development cycle from design handoff to commercialization.

argyle sweater   (ar’-gyle) Distinctively patterned ­sweater made in several colors to produce diamondshaped designs, knit either by hand or machine.

apparel product development  All of the processes that are needed to take a garment from inception to delivery to the customer. apparel supply chain   The network of fiber, textile, and findings suppliers, apparel product developers, manufacturers, vendors, and all the channels of distribution that work together to bring apparel products to the ultimate user. appearance retention   The ability of a material or garment to maintain its aesthetic look during use, refurbishment, and storage. applied design  Textile surface design that is added to the smooth surface of finished goods. appliqué   (ap-plee-kay′) Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching. appropriation   To take inspiration from another person or culture’s style or look and interpret it for one’s self without acknowledgment of the source. approved suppliers   Vendors selected by a company to manufacture products based on reputation and negotiated quality level and price.

argyle sweater

armscye   The term used for the armhole in design and patternmaking; the section of a garment through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted. Usually round but may be squared underneath the arm. aromatherapy   Fragrant oils that are extracted from plants, herbs, and flowers and that are used to stimulate or relax people. arrangement   The organization of motifs into a layout. arrowhead tack   An embroidery worked in the shape of a triangle used to embellish the end of a bound pocket or the top of an inverted pleat.

après-ski   (ah-pray′) (French, “After-skiing”) adj. In fashion, describes clothing and accessories typically worn when relaxing after skiing. apron   1. Item of apparel designed to protect clothing or used as a decorative accessory. 2. Dress with a free-hanging panel attached to the front of a skirt, which resembles an apron.

arrowhead stitch

art deco   A nonrepresentational style of art that rose to prominence in the 1920s and 1930s, characterized by precise and boldly delineated geometric shapes and strong colors. The style was used most notably in household objects and in architecture.

bib apron

apron swimsuit   See pinafore swimsuit. AQL   Acronym for acceptable quality limit arc measurement   An arc is a segment of a circle around the circumference. Arc measurements help to clarify, e.g., that the front bust measurement is larger than the back bust measurement where they meet at the side seam.

art deco

art direction  Creating the visual concept for a line or marketing campaign.

5

A: art nouveau to at-market pricing art nouveau  (art noo’-vo) Design style of the period between 1890 and 1910 that represented an attempt by artists and artisans to develop a style that had no roots in the past. Designs emphasized curved, waving lines; stylized natural forms of plants, animals, and women; and a strong sense of motion. Revived in later periods, especially in jewelry and textiles. artificial intelligence  The development of computer systems able to perform tasks that would normally require human intelligence, including visual perception, speech recognition, recognition of patterns, decisionmaking, and translation between languages. artist brand  A brand archetype that is less concerned with mainstream trends and more expressive in their product offerings. Artist brands offer unique, low-volume products that appeal to self-confident individuals who aren’t afraid to stand out in a crowd. arts and crafts movement   A movement in response to the tastes of the Victorian era and the growth of the Industrial Age, which overlapped with and influenced the art ­nouveau period. ascot   Wide necktie worn over the collar stand and looped over in front; the ends are cut diagonally.

assortment   The merchandise available in a store at any given time. Assortments are often described in terms of breadth (i.e., numbers of styles) and depth (i.e., numbers of sizes and colors available for each style). assortment plan  This plan defines assortment variety, volume, diversity, and distribution—how many fabrics, colors, styles, and sizes are required to meet customer demand. It defines how many skirts, pants, jackets, sweaters, etc., are required by fabric and price point. ASTM International   A government- and trade-­ supported organization that develops and publishes voluntary standards for many types of products, including textiles and apparel. They collect anthropometric data and translate that data into voluntary size standards that are available to their members. Formerly called American Society for Testing and Materials. asymmetric/asymmetric balance   The principle of informal balance, rather than formal balance; when an imaginary line is drawn vertically down the middle of a garment, each side is different. asymmetric closing  Garment closing that fastens at the side or diagonally rather than at the center of the garment. asymmetric/ asymmetric balance

ascot

ascot collar   Long scarf attached to neckline with ends extending from neck which are looped over and tied.

asymmetric closing

ascot collar

aspirational brand   A higher-priced brand from which a firm takes inspiration in part because its target audience admires the label or look, but for economic reasons cannot afford to buy it. assists   Sewing machine attachments that increase productivity and improve the quality of production sewing.

6

asymmetric hem  Hem of uneven length—may be long in back and short in front or slanted diagonally from one side to the other. ATC   Acronym for Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. athleisure   Activewear looks that are meant for everyday wear, not just during exercise. at-market pricing  A pricing strategy in which the retailer prices a product within the expectations of their target market.

A: attaché case to awning stripe attaché case   See briefcase. attribute replenishment   A program that replaces one item with a different item that has similar characteristics in terms of purpose, silhouette, and price. audit fatigue  A challenge faced by factories whereby the workers and management of contract factories become overwhelmed by the number and frequency of audits by different fashion brand companies with different codes of conduct. augmented reality   A technology that superimposes a computer-generated image on to a user’s view of the real world, thus providing a composite view. Augmented reality is used as a tool for digital shopping, however, it does not assess fit as a virtual reality tool might do. authenticity   Quality of a company that does business in accordance with its values and honestly shares its practices, decisions, and policies—mistakes and successes— with its partners and consumers.

automatic replenishment  Software that predetermines an agreed-upon inventory level that triggers an automatic reorder of stock. Fashion-oriented products do not lend themselves to one-for-one replenishment because fashion leaders seek new ideas. auxiliary businesses  Service providers such as design bureaus, software providers, sourcing agents, factors (credit agents), patternmaking services, testing labs, consultants, and advertising agencies that play indirect roles in the manufacture of apparel. avant-garde   (ah-vant′ gard) (French) Used in English to mean new, unconventional, ahead of its time. Used as an adjective to describe apparel that may be provocative or startling. avatar   A virtual representation of a human on a computer. awning stripe   Wide, even bands of one or more bright colors paired with white, woven or printed on fabric.

7

8

B: B Corporation™ to bandana badla   A form of Indian embroidery that uses fine wire as embellishment. bag   1. Shortened from the word “handbag.” 2. Any one of various kinds of luggage. balance   A design principle that refers to the distribution of visual weight of objects, color, texture, and bulk in a garment, giving it a sense of stability or equilibrium. It is determined by dividing a silhouette vertically down the middle. balanced thread tension  When the stitching threads interlock at the midpoint of the fabric layers, providing a smooth, flat appearance. ballerina flat  Soft, low kid shoe with thin sole and flat heel, inspired by shoes worn by ballet dancers.

B Corporation™    Business certified by B Lab as to verified standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. baby boomers  Commonly used to refer to the 76 million Americans born after World War II between the years 1946 and 1964. baby-doll dress  Woman’s dress cut like a smock, with a high waistline and a gathered or pleated skirt, similar to children’s, infants’, and dolls’ dresses of the 1930s. Also carried over to very short pajamas and nightgowns.

ballerina shoe

ballerina length  A hemline between the ankle and 2″–3″ (5–7.5 cm) above the ankle. balmacaan   (bal-ma-kan) Raglan-sleeved, loose-fittingstyle coat that buttons up the front to the neck and has a small, turned-down collar. Frequently made of tweed or water-repellent fabric.

balmacaan

baby doll

backlash   When negative opinions about a trend lead to consumers refusing to adopt it. backpack   Bag with straps fitting over the shoulders to help distribute the weight.

bamboo fabric  Generally ­synthetic rayon made from the cellulose extracted from the soft fibrous pulp of the bamboo plant. band collar   See stand collar. band hem  An edge finish that utilizes a strip of material that is stitched to conceal the fabric raw edge along the hem. bandana   (ban-dan′-nah) Large, square, cotton handkerchief of either red or blue, with distinctive blackand-white design, tied around the head or neck by workmen and later adopted in all colors for wear with sport clothes.

backpack

9

B: bandeau to bathrobe bandeau   (band oh′) A woman’s strapless top made from a piece of fitted fabric that fits around the bust. As an adjective it’s used to describe swimsuits and tops.

base pattern   See block pattern. baseball cap  Cap with a dome-shaped crown, sometimes made with alternate panels of color and an adjustable band or elastic at the back. The colors may signify the team colors. baseball jacket  Waist-length zippered or snap-closed jacket with ribbed cuffs and waist, styled after those worn by Major League and Little League baseball players.

bandeau

bangle bracelet   Narrow, round, rigid bracelet of metal, plastic, wood, or other material, worn singly or in multiples around the wrist. bare midriff  adj. Describes clothing that exposes the body from under the bust, baring the rib cage, to the waist or hips.

baseball jacket

basic business functions   The organizational structure of a company that assigns responsibility for the jobs and tasks required for a business organization to work efficiently and profitably. Though the functional requirements of every business vary, the functions of textile and apparel firms generally include (but are not limited to) sales and marketing, merchandising, supply chain management, information technology, and finance. basic goods   Textiles used by a brand for the core products of a line that do not change radically from year to year in quality or appearance. basic product   Product that is produced in high volume and with predictable demand, and that is very price sensitive because the consumer can purchase it from a variety of competitors. basting stitch  A running stitch that is generally used to keep two or more pieces of fabric in place temporarily.

bare midriff

barn jacket   A loose-fitting, mid-hip jacket that buttons down the front, intended for people performing rugged work outdoors.

bateau neckline   (ba-toe′) Boat-shaped neckline, wide from side to side over the shoulders but high in front and back. Also called boat neckline, Sabrina neckline.

barrel cuff  A standard dress shirt cuff for men. The single cuff does not fold back on itself like a French cuff (see French cuff), but rather wraps around the wrist, laps over itself, and closes with a button and buttonhole. The corners of the cuff are cut square. bateau neckline

bathing cap   A tight-fitting cap commonly made from silicone, latex, or Lycra™, worn on the head to keep hair dry and reduce friction while swimming. Worn by recreational and competitive swimmers.

barrel cuff

10

bathrobe   Informal clothing usually styled like a loose coat; may be sashed, buttoned, zipped, or hang loose. Worn over pajamas or nightgown. Often in an absorbent fabric to wear before or after a bath.

B: batik to Better Cotton Initiative batik   (baa’-teek) Designs printed using a technique of painting with wax, to form a resist, before dyeing. Also used to describe designs derivative of batik but printed in another way. battle jacket  Waist-length army jacket worn in World War II, having two breast pockets, fitted waistband, zippered fly-closing, and tailored collar. Also called Eisenhower jacket.

shoulder in military fashion. May be made of fabric, leather, plastic, chain, etc.

belt bag   1. A small bag worn at the waist having slots in the back through which a belt is drawn. Usually has a flap closing and is worn with sportswear. 2. A pouch bag with handle through which a belt is drawn.

belt bag

battle jacket

batwing sleeve   See dolman sleeve. beanie   A small hat that fits close to the head. Also called toque in Canada. bell   adj. Describes a wide variety of apparel details or items that have the approximate shape of a bell. bell sleeve   Sleeve made narrow at the top, set into normal armhole, and flaring at lower edge like a bell.

bell sleeve

bell-bottoms   Pants cut straight from the thigh to the knee, with fullness added on both the outer and inner seams below the knee to give a “bell” flare at the hem.

benchmark brands   A brand that is considered the best of class at a particular level of competition, be it price point, quality, or styling. benchmarking   In competitive analysis, comparing a company with other firms considered to be best in class within a competitive metric to identify opportunities for improvement.

benchwarmer jacket   Hooded knee-length jacket slipped over the head and zipped at neck.

beret   (beh-ray′) General name given to a round, flat hat. Worn tilted to one side of the head and associated with the dress of an artist. See also tam.

beret

Bermuda shorts   Just-above-the-knee shorts that fit close to leg. Also called walking shorts.

bertha collar  Large cape-like collar falling over shoulders and bodice of dress.

bertha

besom pocket   See bound pocket. bell-bottoms

bellows pocket   See safari pocket. belt   Decorative or functional item worn circling above, below, or at the natural waistline. Also worn over the

bespoke   Fashion products custom-made to an individual’s specifications; typically suits or specialty items.

Better Cotton Initiative  An international organization that aims to promote measurable improvements in the key environmental and social impacts of cotton

11

B: better market to binding cultivation worldwide to make it more economically, environmentally, and socially sustainable.

better market   Product priced under contemporary designer and bridge brands and above the moderate market. bias   The direction of a fabric that is diagonal to the lengthwise or crosswise direction. When woven fabrics are pulled in the bias direction, they exhibit greater stretch than in the lengthwise or crosswise directions, unless the fabrics are woven with stretch yarns or given special finishes. See bias cut.

after, the word “shortall” (a combination of the words “shorts” and “overalls”) was used for this type of shorts. big data   Very large complex data sets that are ­continually collected through multiple sources, including business transactions, marketing research data, and social media. big-and-tall clothing  Men’s clothing in sizes that are larger than the traditional sizing categories. big-box stores  Stores as large as 150,000 to 250,000 square feet, usually containing elements of a supermarket and a department store and offering a very wide range of merchandise. biker jacket   Waist-length jacket for sports. Styling varies but is often similar to a windbreaker or bomber jacket. biker shorts  Skin-tight, knee-length shorts made of four-way stretch fabric designed for comfort and function while bicycling.

bias

bias binding   Narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias, thus pliable, for use in covering raw edges of curved necklines and armholes, or used as trimming. May either be hand cut or sold in packages. biker shorts

bikini   (bih kee′nee) 1. n. A very brief two-piece swimsuit for women 2. Man’s very brief swim trunks. 3. adj. Used to describe men’s or women’s underwear that exposes the navel and barely covers the groin area. bias binding

bias cut   A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut on the bias will hang more gracefully, or a narrow dress will cling to the figure. bias facing   A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and stitched along the opening to finish and stabilize the edge. bib collar  A flat stand collar with an attached decorative piece, shaped like a baby’s bib, that falls from the stand collar and over the top of a bodice. bib shorts  Women’s and children’s shorts made with a bib top and straps over the shoulders attached to pants at the back of waist. Popular for women in 1940s, again in 1960s, and in 1980s and after. For women and children in the 1980s and bib shorts of shortalls

12

bikini

bilateral trade agreement   Trade agreements between two countries. bill   See visor. bill of materials (BOM)  A section of a tech pack in which textiles, trims, labels, and packing materials are listed, with description, sizes, quantities, and other information needed to ensure that the product is made according to the design. binding   1. A process of binding feet from infancy to prevent growth. 2. The process of wrapping and flattening the bust, popular in the 1920s. 3. Narrow fabric strips used to cover seams or raw edges of clothing. May be cut on the bias or on straight grain.

B: bind-off to blog bind-off   The technique of finishing the edge of a knit so the stitches won’t ravel out. The technique is similar whether done by hand with knitting needles or by taking the knit off of a knitting machine. biodegradable   Anything that is capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms and thereby avoiding pollution. The ability of materials to break down and decompose into natural elements in a short period of time.

black tie  Abbreviated reference to men’s semiformal evening attire. Denotes type of dress expected at a semiformal occasion. “Black tie” indicates a dinner jacket is required for men. blazer   Sport jacket, originally single-breasted, and with patch pockets, now made double-breasted as well and with varying types of pockets. Generally worn with trousers or skirt of contrasting color.

biodegradable textiles   Textiles that can be manufactured from fiber crops grown without the use of pesticides and chemicals and that decompose back into nature’s cycle. biofabricated leathers   A leather-like product that can be grown in the laboratory using collagen protein and other essential building blocks present in animal skin that does not involve killing or harming animals. biomimicry   The design and production of materials, structures, and systems modelled on methods learned from the study of natural systems. Birkin bag   A classic two-handle Hermès bag inspired by the actress Jane Birkin. The bags continue to be distributed on schedules and in limited quantities, creating ongoing demand through scarcity.

Birkin bag

bishop sleeve  A full sleeve set into a normal armhole that gradually increases in fullness from the upper arm to the wrist, where it is gathered into a cuff. Extra length over the top of the arm causes the sleeve to blouson over the cuff.

bishop sleeve

black market  Where illicit goods or commodities are traded in violation of official regulations.  black swan event  An unpredictable event that is beyond what might be expected and may have dire consequences.

blazer

bleeding   Tendency of dyed fabric to lose color or run when wet. blind hem   A hem finish where the raw edges are folded or covered with seam tape and sewn with a blind stitch so the stitches are not visible on the face of the garment. blistering   Visible pebbled appearance on the surface of the garment due to improper fusing. Also called bubbling. block pattern   The simplest pattern pieces needed to make a garment. In a dress, the pieces would include a front, back, and sleeve with no style lines, design detail, or finishing pieces such as facings. Blocks include ease for comfort and movement, but no extra fabric for silhouettes that extend beyond the body shape. Also called base pattern, sloper. block printing  Method of hand-printing fabric by cutting separate wood or linoleum blocks for each color in relief, then inking and printing individual colored blocks. blockchain   A system of recording and safeguarding digital information in a way that makes it difficult to change, hack, or cheat the system. It is an accounting of transactions that can be duplicated and distributed across the web safely using the blockchain system, making it ideal for money transfers and the sharing of sensitive information. blocking   1. Process of shaping knitted clothing after completion or washing by drawing its outline on paper and shaping article to conform. 2. Millinery term for placing a felt or straw hood over a block of wood, then using heat or steam for desired shape. blog   A journal-type entry, sometimes from consumer to consumer, sometimes from company to consumer, that provides information and opinions in the form of a web log; a new style of information transfer that bypasses traditional media gatekeepers and the time lag involved in media production.

13

B: bloomers to bodysuit bloomers   1. Full pants of any length that are gathered at the end of the legs. 2. A form of Turkish pants popularized by Amelia Bloomer and the Reform Dress Movement of the 19th c. as an alternative to the constrictive clothing of the time. 3. Full pants worn under little girls’ dresses in 1920s.

board shorts   Swim trunks worn by surfers, cut low on the hips with a hemline that falls anywhere from midthigh to right below the knee. board of directors   Chief governing body of a corporation elected by the corporation’s stockholders. boat neckline   See bateau neckline. bobby socks   A thicker cotton sock for women that ends just above the ankle and is worn folded over. bodice   The upper part of a woman’s dress, often close-fitting.

bloomer costume

blouse   Clothing for the upper part of the body, usually softer and less tailored than a shirt.

bodies   Garment silhouettes that are used repeatedly, season after season, minimizing product development costs by allowing manufacturers to modify existing patterns which have already been fitted and graded. body painting   Fad of late 1960s that involved painting face and body with fantasy flowers, geometric shapes, and other designs. See also tattoo, caste mark. body piercing  Making a hole somewhere on the body (e.g., ear lobes, tongue, nose, belly button) through which an item of jewelry can be fastened. The jewelry for insertion in these openings is called body jewelry. body scanning  Technology that takes a three-dimensional snapshot of the human form, providing complete and accurate measurement data. body shirt   See Bodysuit.

blouson blouse

blouson   (blue-zohn′) adj. Describes blouses, tops, and dress bodices with fullness at the waist, usually gathered into a band or, in the case of a dress, ­attached to a skirt. blouson jacket  (blue′-zohn) Jacket with a bloused effect at a normal or low waistline, either gathered into a waistband or pulled in by drawstring. blue jeans  Pants traditionally made in blue or indigo denim, styled with topstitching, two hip pockets, two back pockets, a V-shaped yoke in back, and rivets reinforcing points of strain.

blue jeans

14

body sweater   See Bodysuit. body type   Classification of a specified population based on key length and circumference body measurements and proportions. One classification system uses the categories ectomorph, endomorph, and mesomorph; another system refers to body types as triangle or pear, inverted triangle or pear, hourglass, rectangle, oval or round, and diamond. In fashion, body type classifications are used to improve fit and help consumers select garment styles that flatter their figure type. bodyshaper   See shapewear. bodysuit   One-piece, fitted garment without legs and with a snap crotch. Made sleeveless or with long or short sleeves, and with varying styles of collars and necklines. Sometimes substitutes for a blouse or sweater. Also called body shirt.

bodysuit

B: Bohemian to BOPIS/BOPUS Bohemian   A style of clothing inspired by Bohemian and Indian cultures that is characterized by colorful, flowing garments. boho   adj. Short for Bohemian. Descriptive of persons having an unconventional lifestyle, such as gypsies in the region of Bohemia (the Western side of the Czech Republic). Styles characterized as boho are made in vibrant colors, softly flowing fabrics, and combinations of variously patterned fabrics. bolero   (bo-lehr′-o) Waist-length or above-the-waist jacket, usually collarless and often sleeveless, with rounded front, and no fastenings. Copied from the Spanish bullfighter’s embroidered jacket.

bondage apparel  Belts, arm binders, blindfolds, body harnesses, chastity belts, collars, gags, hoods, and leashes worn by those who engage in the act of being restrained for pleasure. bonded labor  Labor that is secured as a means of repayment of a debt or a loan; repayment can apply to a whole family and be inherited through generations. bonding   A process in which one or more pieces of fabric are joined together with an adhesive to make a composite. boning   Flexible rods made of steel, cane, or plastic inserted into channels that are sewn into the garment to support how the garment fits to the body. book bag   A satchel with a handle or strap used to carry books and other school supplies.

book bag bolero jacket

bolo tie  Western-type tie of heavy rounded braid with metal-tipped ends, fastening with an ornamental slide. Also called shoelace tie.

booked seam   The most common configuration of fabric in industrial sewing, in which two layers of fabric are lined up along their cut edges and inserted into the machine. boom and bust cycles  Periodic swings in popularity between times when an item is “in” and “out” of fashion. boot-cut pants   Refers to the width at hem of pants—cut wide enough so that pant legs can be pulled over the outside of a pair of western boots. bootleg goods  ​Quality products made by the same manufacturer that produces the genuine branded products; these are sold to the black market. boots   Shoes that extend to the ankle or above, used for utility, sports, or fashion.

bolo tie

BOM   Acronym for bill of materials. bomber jacket   A short zip-front jacket with knit waistband and cuffs, often made of leather. Also called flight jacket.

fashion boot

BOPIS/BOPUS   A service that enables consumers to buy online and pick up in-store. bomber jacket

15

B: border print to boxer shorts border print   A print designed so that one selvage forms a distinct border used at the hem of a dress or shirt or worked into the garment in some other way.

imaginative presentation of goods and individualized customer service. boutonnière   (boo-ton-yeer’) Flower worn in lapel buttonhole. bow collar  Flat, stand-up band, with extended ends, that is sewn to the neckline. The ends tie in a bow in front.

border print

boro   The historic Japanese practice of reworking and repairing textiles through piecing, patching, and stitching to extend their use. bottom-weight   Textiles weighing more than 6.0 ounces per square yard (203 g/m2); used in products such as pants, skirts, jackets, etc. bouclé   A fancy, irregular, multi-ply yarn that contains small loops to give it texture.

bow collar blouse

bow tie   Man’s tie, that circles the neck under the collar and is tied in a bow under the chin. Clip-on versions are already tied in a bow, and clip to the collar.

bouffant   (boo-fahnt′) Describes apparel or hairstyles that are full or puffed out. bound   adj. Used to describe a raw edge of a garment or part of a garment that has been finished either with band of, bias binding or tape. bound buttonhole  Buttonhole with edges finished with separate strips of fabric or leather binding.

bow tie

bowling shirt  Shirt designed to be worn by men and women for bowling, personalized with name of individual on front and team name on back. bound buttonhole

bound placket   A binding is used to cover the raw edges of an opening to create an over lap. bound pocket  Inset pocket made with a slit finished like a bound buttonhole on the outside, providing access to inner concealed pocket. Also called double-welt, besom pocket. bound seam (BS)   Fabric edge on garment parts that is finished by the application of a separate piece of fabric. Often used on unlined jackets and coats.

box bag or clutch  Handbag with rigid frame, similar to small suitcase or lunch box, made in leather, metal, or vinyl. box jacket   Any straight, unfitted jacket, waist length or longer. box pleat   Pleat made by making two folds in fabric, the edges of which face in opposite directions. Sometimes box pleats may be stitched down for some distance before the fullness is released.

box pleats

boxer shorts  Undergarments that are styled similarly to those garments worn for the sport of boxing. bound seam

boutique   (boo-teek’) Small shop selling a variety of unique merchandise not generally found in department, mass-market or chain stores. Characterized by an 16

boxer shorts

B: boyfriend jeans to bridal veil boyfriend jeans  Pants with a relaxed fit through the thighs and rear as if a woman is wearing her boyfriend’s pants.

brand portfolio  A collection of multiple brands managed by a single company but not necessarily recognized by consumers as related.

boy-leg   adj. Describes a garment with a close-fitting leg that ends at the top of the thigh.

brand positioning  How the company positions its brand on key characteristics such as price, target customer, and fashion level, as compared to its competitors.

bra   An undergarment worn by women to support the breasts. bracelet bag   Type of handbag with one or two bangle bracelets as handles. May be a soft pouch bag made of leather or fabric, or it may be made with a frame. bracelet sleeve  Three-quarter-length, fitted, cuffless sleeve, allowing a bracelet to show. braid   1. n. Narrow woven band for use as trimming or binding, or for outlining lace and embroidery. 2. Textile trims made of heavy cord wrapped by filament or metal yarns; often used for military or formal looks. 3. v. To plait or interweave strands of hair, fabric, or straw. brand   n. A manufacturer- or distributor-assigned name, logo, or label that identifies the products of a company and creates an image in the consumer’s mind about the qualities and characteristics of the products. brand community   A community formed on the basis of attachment to a product brand. brand differentiation   Building into a product’s design some characteristic that sets it apart from the competition and can be marketed to consumers. brand equity  The value that accrues to a brand for customers, who may be willing to spend more for the promise of a brand-name product, and as a corporate asset that can be leveraged in launching new product categories, influencing mergers and acquisitions, maximizing revenue streams, and justifying capital investment. brand extension  The practice of expanding a brand’s reach, achieved by expanding a brand’s category or service assortment. brand identity  All means by which a company portrays the brand and communicates with the consumer. brand image   A consumer’s set of assumptions and feelings about products and/or services provided under a brand name. brand manager  A position that oversees advertising and marketing activities to ensure the right message is delivered for a fashion brand. As part of an in-house marketing department or marketing consulting company, a brand manager works with product development personnel to assure effective and consistent fashion brand identity strategies.

brand recognition   The degree to which consumers are aware of a brand name and brand image. brand strategy  Planning document that outlines the company’s mission, target customer (audience for the brand), and competitors (to create brand distinction) to inform brand development. brand tiers   A strategy in which a company owns multiple brands in a product category and positions each for a different target consumer and different retail channels, differentiating between the brands in image, pricing, packaging, placement, and presentation. brand umbrella  A collection of multiple brands managed by a single company, marketed so that consumers understand that they are related in promise and quality (e.g., Gap, Old Navy, and Banana Republic, or all of the Kohl’s house brands). branding   A competitive strategy used to distinguish and market the brand through the development of product, advertising, and promotions. brassiere   See bra. break point  The point along the front edge of the garment at which the lapel begins to roll back. See tailored collar. breaker pants   Straight-legged pants with zipper at side seam that shows contrasting lining when opened. May have zippered back pocket and grommet trim. Der. From break dancing, which requires a lot of movement. breaking strength   Amount of force applied to a material before the yarns break and a tear occurs. breakline   The line on which the lapels of a collar turn back. See tailored collar. breast pocket  1. Pocket on men’s suit coats and overcoats placed on the left side of the chest. 2. A similar pocket on women’s tailored garments. brick-and-mortar retailer  Retailer with one or more physical stores in which customers can see, touch, and feel merchandise. bridal   adj. Describes clothing and accessories worn by a bride at a wedding. bridal dress   See wedding dress. bridal veil  Traditionally, a length of white net, lace, or tulle reaching to waist, hips, ankles, or floor in back. Chest length in front and worn over face during wedding, and turned back after ceremony.

17

B: bridesmaid’s dress to bundle ticket bridesmaid’s dress   Any type of dress worn by a bride’s attendant(s) at a wedding. May match in style and color with other attendants, and is usually selected to complement the bride’s dress.

bridge market   A price point that falls between the better market and the designer market (similar in price to the contemporary designer), geared to a more mature customer that focuses on classic styling with a fashion twist executed in high-quality fabrics. briefcase   1. Large, usually flat case with a carrying handle, most often made of real or synthetic leather and large enough or can expand sufficiently to hold documents, books, and the like. Also called attaché case. 2. Handbag of briefcase size for woman executive that features small outside pockets for personal items.

briefs   A type of underwear for women or men made of tight-fitting knit fabric which covers the body from the waist to the top of the leg.

British Standards Institution (BSI)  A nonprofit organization that develops and publishes standards used in the UK.

bubble-up theory  A chain of events beginning with street-style innovation, picked up and popularized through media, disseminated to street kids in other locales, and ­finally finding its way into a designer’s collection. bubbling   See blistering. buck   A piece of equipment for pressing that has two parts that open and close like an oyster. The base is shaped and padded to help build in the correct shape for tailored garments. When the cover comes down, pressure and steam are applied to mold the correct shape into the garment. bucket bag   Round handbag made in the shape of a bucket. bucket hat   Casual hat made of fabric that has moderatesized, sloping brim, which may be stitched in concentric circles and is attached to flat-topped, slightly coneshaped crown. buckle   A decorative or functional clasp, usually of metal, wood, or plastic. Consists of a rectangular or curved rim, often with one or more movable tongues.

broad and shallow assortment  A store that offers many different styles in limited sizes and colors.

brocade   A rich, heavy fabric with a raised, shuttle-woven design. broomstick skirt  A full skirt, generally ankle length, with tiny, irregular pleats or wrinkles.

buckle

budget market  The low end of the apparel pricing spectrum. Also called mass market. budgets   Written plans for anticipated monetary income and expenditures of the firm. Among other things, the budget dictates the percentages of projected sales assigned to developing, producing, marketing, and distributing the goods. A budget must also cover all administrative costs and overheads.

broomstick skirt

BS   Acronym for bound seam. bubble   1. adj. Describes apparel with a balloon-like shape. 2. n. Child’s garment with short or long lengths that are slightly balloon-shaped.

buffalo checks  Heavy fabrics made with large square blocks in contrasting colors, often red and black, that are used for shirts or outerwear. bundle   A stack of cut garment pieces, folded and/or tied, sorted, and grouped according to pattern, color, size, and construction processes. These bundles are passed from one operator to another to complete the sequence of construction operations. bundle system   Stacked, cut fabric pieces for a particular style, size, and color are grouped for garment production by tying them together in a bundle. Operators take the bundle, perform one or more operations, bundle the finished work, and then pass the work to the next employee. bundle ticket   A master list of operations for a garment bundle that includes bundle coupons which track and compensate sewing operators, tracking information, piece rate, style number, size, and shade number.

bubble suit

bubble dress

18

B: burnout print to business ecosystem burnout print  adj. Describes fabric or lace that has a patterned effect produced by using yarns of two different fibers and destroying all or part of one of the yarns. Chemicals that dissolve one of the fibers are printed onto the fabric in the design areas. burqa/burka   An all-enveloping garment worn by some Muslim women, most closely associated with the countries of Pakistan and Afghanistan. This garment differs somewhat in each country. The Pakistani version of the burqa consists of a cap, a cape-like body covering that includes an eyehole grid, and a separate panel at the front. The fullness of the fabric is gathered into soft pleats or folds or gathered and sewn onto the cap. The Afghan chadri has a cap to which the eye grid panel is attached and has no inserted front panel. Hundreds of fine, pressed pleats are sewn onto the cap. Other countries with large Muslim populations may wear variations of these garments. Also called chador, chaddar, chadri.

burqa

burqini   Bathing dress worn by Muslim women that covers the entire body except for the face. It generally consists of a knee-length, long-sleeved tunic worn with long pants and a headscarf. The garment is made in a wide range of colors; fabrics are those typically used for swimwear.

burst seam  Broken stitches within a seam due to improperly joined materials or tension on the garment. bush hat  Large-brimmed Australian-type hat worn turned up on one side. Worn in Australia and in Africa for safaris, also worn as part of uniform by Australian soldiers in World War II. Also called caddie, caddy.

bush hat

bush jacket   Jacket originally worn in Africa on hunting expeditions, where it was made of khaki-colored cotton with peaked lapels, single-breasted front, belt, and four large bellows pockets. Adapted for fashion sportswear and made in all types of fabrics and worn by men, women, and children. Also called safari jacket.

bush jacket or safari jacket

bush shirt   See safari shirt. business   An enterprise engaged in commercial, industrial, or professional activities to achieve goals. Businesses may be for-profit or nonprofit; they may be organized as sole proprietorships, partnerships, or corporations. business casual  A relaxed style that is acceptable for office wear; what that is varies depending on the office environment. It may mean khakis, a dress shirt without a tie and a sports coat, or dressy jeans and a polo shirt or sweater for men. For women it may mean separates rather than a matched suit, or dressy jeans and a sweater or blazer. business cycle   The cyclical nature of the economy as it passes through the rising and falling phases of prosperity and stagnation.

burqini

business ecosystem  A collaborative network of organizations that together create products or services that address a coherent need in the marketplace.

19

B: business law to button-down collar business law   The body of law that focuses on (1) regulations around business entities such as partnerships and corporations, and (2) laws associated with operating and managing a business. business logistics  Coordination of forecasting need; purchasing materials, trims, and findings; and moving materials, semi-finished, and finished products from the product’s inception and distribution to the ultimate consumer. business objectives   Objectives of a company related to financial sustainability, profit, and business growth. business plan  A document that assesses market and operational feasibility by defining the framework and structure for a new business or business division. A business plan identifies the products and/or services that will be offered, analyzes the intended target market and competition, identifies required resources, and defines goals for the new business. It sets out a budget that identifies the operating capital required for the first few years of business and projects sales goals.

using boning to push up the bust and shape the midsection and waist. It is sometimes laced, similar to a corset or camisole, and reaches to a few inches/centimeters below the waist or to the hips. It may be a separate garment or the bodice of a dress or jumpsuit. bustle   (bus′-sel) General term describing exceptional fullness at the back of the skirt of a woman’s dress. Historically a pad, cushion, or arrangement of steel springs created a rounded projection below the waist over which the extra fullness draped.

bustle

business suit  A jacket and pants or skirt, for men or women, suitable for daytime wear at the office and also worn for other occasions. bustle dress 1885

butterflied   See busted. butterfly sleeve  Wide flaring sleeve set in smoothly at armhole, extending to elbow or wrist, giving a caped effect.

business suit

business-to-business partners  Firms closely allied as suppliers, manufacturers, or customers. bust point.   See apex. busted   A seam whose edges are prefinished before it is stitched and pressed with the seam allowances open. Also called pressed open, butterflied. Buster Brown collar  A medium-sized, starched white collar with round edges that lies flat on the neck and shoulder, first worn by boys in the beginning of the 20th c. and later adopted by women and girls. Often worn with a separate wide, soft bow tie. bustier   (boo-ste′-yay) Formfitting strapless garment for women traditionally worn as lingerie. It is designed

20

butterfly sleeve

button-down collar   Shirt collar with pointed ends that are fastened to the shirt by small buttons.

button-down collar

B: buttonhole to buzz buttonhole   Opening for button to go through in order to secure the garment. Generally classified as either a bound or a worked buttonhole.

buyer   An individual authorized to make purchases for a retailer.

buttonhole stitch   Embroidery stitch similar to blanket stitch worked close together with an extra purl at the edge. Used for worked buttonholes.

buyer’s directory   A list (and often a map) of the manufacturer showrooms in a particular market or mart; it is furnished to retail buyers to assist them in “working the market.”

button-tab sleeve  A long, convertible, roll-up sleeve. Sleeve is rolled up and fastened by attaching a button on the exterior to a buttonholed tab sewn on underside of sleeve.

buying   Making purchases of goods from a manufacturer for a retailer who will sell them to the ultimate consumer. Often done through a resident buying office. buzz   The way trends spread through the media; the excitement about something new, and a feeling of being “in the know” because of insider information.

button-tab sleeve

21

22

C: C corporation to camisole

caftan

C corporation  Type of corporation whereby profits of the corporation are distributed to shareholders in the form of dividends; the owners and shareholders of the corporation are taxed separately from the business. CA Number  A number issued by the Competition Bureau for the purpose of identifying Canadian manufacturers, importers, or distributors of apparel products. cable stitch  A combination of knitted stitches that are manipulated to resemble twisted rope.

cage dress   Woman’s garment made in two layers, with inner layer opaque and cut close to body, and outer layer of sheer or latticed fabric hanging loosely. calendaring   Passing fabric between two heated rollers in order to produce a smooth, even appearance. calf length  Hem of skirt, dress, or coat reaching below the knee at the widest part of the calf. Compare with midi length, which is longer. calibration   The process of controlling the output from equipment or a testing standard to ensure accuracy of performance and results. calico   Plain-weave, light to medium-weight cotton or cotton-blend fabric, usually printed with very small designs such as flowers or geometric forms. callout   An enlarged drawing of a detail area on a technical flat. CAM   Acronym for computer-aided manufacturing. camel’s hair   Fibers from the crossbred Bactrian camel of Asia which produces soft luxurious yarn, and the cloth made from these fibers.

cable stitch jumper

CAD   Acronym for computer-aided design. CAD engineer/CAD designer   A person responsible for designing fashion products using computer-aided design software. CAD engineers create and test prototype fashion products working with designers and product developers. caddie/caddy   See bush hat. CAFTA-DR   Acronym for Dominican RepublicCentral America-United States Free Trade Agreement. caftan   Long, full robe with a slit neckline that is often decorated with embroidery and has long or three-quarter-length sleeves that widen to the end. Based on a North African or Middle Eastern garment, the caftan was adopted by American women in the 1960s and after and worn as at-home or evening dress. also called kaftan

cameo   A piece of jewelry, typically oval in shape, consisting of low-relief carving often made from a twotoned shell or banded two-layer gemstone. The carving is generally of a portrait in profile but may also be of flora or fauna. camera bag   A three-dimensional rectangular bag with a zipper top and wrist or shoulder strap. May be a functional bag to hold a camera or a handbag designed to look like a camera bag. camisole   (kam′-ih-sole) A woman’s loose-fitting undergarment for the upper body made with straps over the shoulder. camisole top

23

C: camouflage print to cardigan camouflage print   A print pattern designed to help soldiers and hunters blend into the environment.

cape collar  Large circular-cut collar that extends over the shoulders and upper arms like a cape. cape sleeve  Circular or semicircular piece placed over each shoulder, but not extending to the underside of the arm.

cape sleeve camouflage print

capri pants  Close-fitting tapered pants that end at the calf; often with a short slit on the outside of leg.

camp   Deliberate adoption of styles or behaviors that are generally considered to be vulgar, artificial, or humorous. Often used as an adjective to describe such styles. camp shirt  Conventional front-buttoned shirt with a convertible collar, usually made of woven cotton or cotton blends.

camp shirt

cannibalizing   When buyers shift from a company’s current brands to a new brand they introduce, hurting sales of existing brands. cap   Head covering that fits more snugly to the head than a hat, frequently made with a visor-type front.

capri pants

capsule collections   Small collections delivered throughout a selling season to offer the consumer fresh new merchandise every few weeks. car coat  Sport or utility coat, hip to three-quarter length, which is comfortable for driving a car. caravan bag   See safari bag.

cap

cap sleeve   A sleeve extending only a small distance past the shoulder and tapering to nothing under the arm. May be cut in one with the bodice or a separate piece attached to the armscye.

carbon footprint  The amount of carbon dioxide and other carbon compounds emitted due to the consumption of fossil fuels, typically expressed in equivalent tons of carbon dioxide (CO2) for a particular time period (usually per year). The amount of greenhouse gases emitted in the production of a product. carbon offsetting   Compensating for unavoidable emissions by helping to fund projects that deliver an equivalent carbon dioxide saving elsewhere, such as the planting of trees or investment in solar energy. cardigan   adj. Collarless garment, with round or Vshaped neckline, which buttons down the front.

cap sleeve

cape   A sleeveless garment or part of a garment, of various lengths, that falls loosely over the shoulders from the neckline; it may have slits from which the arms can extend.

24

cardigan sweater

C: cardinal points to casing cardinal points   Points identified on a pattern that control the change in the perimeter of a pattern piece when it is graded. care label  Permanently attached label for apparel required by a Federal Trade Commission ruling of 1972. The label must provide care and maintenance directions. Exceptions include hats, gloves, and footwear; articles selling for less than three dollars; items that would be defaced by attaching a label; or items not requiring cleaning. Care Labeling Rule  A US Federal Trade Commission ruling that requires apparel to carry a permanently affixed label with instructions on regular care.

cartridge pleats   Small, rounded pleats, like very large gathers.

cartridge pleats 1

cartridge pleats 2

carwash skirt  A skirt with split panels like those at a car-wash.

cargo pants   Any pants with cargo pockets. cargo pocket  Large patch pocket used on shorts and pants. Curved top of pocket extends to waist and forms a loop through which belt is pulled.

cargo pocket

Carnaby   adj. A term used to describe styles adopted first in London in connection with mod fashions (see mod), which were then introduced in the United States in 1964.

carwash skirt

cascade   1. Ruffles, bias cut from fabric in a circular manner, that fall in folds. 2. Circular-cut ruffle attached to neckline of blouse with a binding.

carriage   The principal part of a knitting machine that engages the yarn, which has been fed through a tension device, and controls the needle action on the bed of the machine. As the carriage is passed across the bed of needles it causes movements that produce the next stitch. carryover   Apparel styles from one season’s line that are repeated the following season. cartridge belt  Webbed or leather belt first worn by armed forces and law enforcement officers, with individual spaces for ammunition and sometimes a holster for a gun; adapted as a fashion trend without a holster but with a row of fake bullet cartridges.

cartridge belt

cascade collar

cashless payment  Transaction accepted without the use of cash. Includes payments made via credit/debit cards, checks, direct deposit, national electronic funds transfer (NEFT), real-time gross settlement (RTGS), or any other form of online payment that removes the needs for cash. cashmere   1. A fine, soft, downy wool undergrowth produced by the cashmere goat, which is raised in the Kashmir region of India and Pakistan and parts of northern India, Tibet, Mongolia, Turkmenistan, China, Iran, and Iraq. Similar goats are now being raised in the United States. 2. Cloth woven from this wool fiber. Also called pashmina. casing   Fabric stitched in such a way as to form a tunnel through which elastic, a cord, or a drawstring is drawn.

25

C: cassock to Chanel bag cassock   Full-length liturgical robe, made like a coat with standing collar, worn by clergy, altar boys, and choirs, sometimes under white surplice or cotta.

side of the opening seam. This application can also be used on garment details such as pockets and sleeves. certificate of compliance (COC)   A document provided by a supplier that certifies that goods comply with all of the required standards and specifications. certification   A system of official approval or authentication that a product or service meets stated standards. certified supplier   An established vendor that has been approved to produce products that require minimal inspection due to their strong quality control program and consistent record for manufacturing products that meet or exceed required specifications. CFDA   Acronym for Council of Fashion Designers of America.

cassock

caste mark  Red mark, usually worn in center of forehead by women of India, that originally symbolized and identified caste or class membership, but which now serves a decorative function. Paste-on caste marks were introduced in the United States as body jewelry for women in 1968. casualization   The process of dress codes becoming less formal and more relaxed. cat suit   One-piece, skintight, long-sleeved suit; variation of the unitard. category killer  A product, service, brand, or company that has a competitive advantage that makes it difficult for other companies to compete profitably. category management  A collaborative strategy between a retailer and a manufacturer in which the manufacturer acts as a specialist in forecasting, keeping the right flow of merchandise going to the selling floor; provides expertise in a category, including trends, silhouettes, and finishes; and makes recommendations on merchandising assortment, display, and inventory controls in that product category on a store-by-store basis. catwalk   A runway upon which models walk to show new collections in fashion shows. CAUS   Acronym for color association of the united states. CCC   Acronym for clean clothes campaign. cellulosic fibers  Natural fibers from plants like cotton, linen, ramie, and hemp.

26

chain mail   A form of armor made from small metal rings that are linked together. chain stitch machine   Forms a stitch where one thread is forced by a needle through layers of fabric and then interlooped with a thread from a looper underneath. chain store   A retail outlet owned by a centralized organization that owns and operates a number of retail outlets in different locations that are similar in the lines of merchandise they sell and in their methods of operation. challis   (shal′-lee) Soft, plain-weave fabric made of wool, rayon staple, cotton, or manufactured fiber blends. Supple and lightweight, it is often printed in small floral patterns. Generally used for women’s dresses and sportswear, infant wear, and robes. chambray   (sham′-bray) A broad class of plain-weave fabrics made with colored yarns in the lengthwise direction and white yarns in the crosswise direction. May be a plain color, striped, or checked. Usually made of either cotton or manufactured fibers, or a blend of the two. Chambre Syndicale  Three Chambre Syndicales make up the Fédération de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-àPorter—one for the Paris Haute Couture and the others for women’s and men’s designer ready-to-wear. These governing bodies determine membership categories and eligibility; regulate fashion presentations; promote Paris fashion culture, and represent the industry and its workers. chandelier earrings   Long, dangling, oversized earrings made to look like crystals on a chandelier.

CEN   Acronym for European Committee for Standardization. centered zipper/center lap zipper   A zipper that is applied to the center front or the center back, with an evenly placed stitching line on either

chador/chaddar/chadri   See burqa.

centered zipper

Chanel bag   Handbag designed by French couturière Gabrielle Chanel that has become a classic. It is characterized by quilted leather with gold chain handles and a gold House of Chanel logo on the front.

Chanel bag

C: Chanel jacket/suit to Chelsea collar Chanel jacket/suit   Classic women’s suit style originated by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1920s and continues as a classic shape today. A collarless, cardigan-style jacket; the designer version was frequently made of plaid or tweed fabric with a braid trim. Because the designer’s name is a registered trademark of the fashion house she founded, other designers who adapt the design of the Chanel suit or jacket or other Chanel designs must call them Chanel-style rather than simply Chanel.

for protection. Originally worn by cowboys, made of leather or shearling. chargeback   An amount deducted from the invoice price originally agreed to by retailer and wholesaler at the beginning of the season, usually for mislabeled products and incomplete or late delivery. charm bracelet   A metal chain bracelet on which one or more matching metal charms are hung, often to commemorate personal events. charro pants  (char′-row) (Mexican) Wide Mexican-inspired pants in midi length, similar to gaucho pants. chart   A knitted pattern plotted on graph paper. chatbot   An artificial intelligence computer program that simulates human conversation through voice commands or text chats or both. chatelaine   (shat′-eh-lane) Ornamental device of oxidized silver, silver-plated metal, or cut steel, suspended at a woman’s waistline or hooked to belt to hold small items such as scissors, thimble case, tape measure, penknife, watch, keys, or buttonhook.

Chanel suit 1960s

Chanel neckline  A neckline that is framed or bound with a contrasting fabric or edged with a braid. change agent  Individual from inside or outside of an organization who acts as a catalyst for change. change pocket  Small pocket for coins often found in conjunction with a larger pocket. The small fifth pocket on a pair of jeans designed in conjunction with the front hip pocket. Also called key pocket, fob pocket, coin change pocket pocket, watch pocket. chapel veil  Circular or triangular pieces of white or black lace that is draped over a woman’s head when attending mass. 2. Shoulder-length bridal veil. Also called mantilla. chapel-length train   Hemline with back cut longer, ending in a short train of about one yard (0.9 m), primarily used for informal wedding dresses. chappals   Flat sandals, similar to flip-flops, but with a toe ring, which originated in India. Typically made of leather. chaps   Covering for the legs without a back seat, worn over pants

chaps

chatelaine

chef’s apron  An apron of canvas, terry cloth, or other type of fabric styled like a butcher’s apron. May have a kangaroo pocket across the center front. chef’s hat   Tall, white, fullcrowned fabric hat starched to stand up stiffly, gathered or pleated and set into the headband.

Chelsea collar   Medium-sized, flat, woman’s collar with pointed ends that form a low Vneckline in front; popular in late 1960s. Der. Named for a borough in southwest London where it originated.

Chelsea collar

27

C: chemise to cinch belt chemise   (shem-ees’) A slip-like garment worn as a dress, slip, or sleepwear. It is unstructured but often cut on the bias to contour to the curves of a woman’s body.

chiffon   Thin transparent fabric made in a plain weave. child labor  Work that is dangerous or harmful to children and interferes with their schooling. China National Institute of Standardization (CNIS)   A nonprofit organization that develops standards to be implemented by the government within China. chiné   See ikat. Chinese collar   See mandarin collar. chinos   Casual lightweight pants for men or women made from cotton or cotton blend twill fabric. chintz   A polished or glazed cotton that often features small allover floral patterns.

chemise

chenille   Fancy yarn with a velvet-like texture. cheongsam   Chinese woman’s dress originating in Shanghai, China, in the late 1930s as an attempt to blend traditional Chinese and Western styles. It has a high, close-fitting collar, diagonal front opening that closes with frogs or buttons, short sleeves, a snug fit, and a side slit running from the bottom of the hem and reaching as high as the thigh.

chip technology   Radio frequency identification (RFID) chips that can be placed in apparel to track production, inventory control, warehousing, distribution, logistics, and supply chain management. It can also help to differentiate between brand product and counterfeit merchandise. chip-containing fibers  Textile fibers that have been embedded with electronic devices. choker   A necklace that fits snugly around the base of the neck. choli   A blouse worn with Indian saris; has short tight sleeves, a scooped neckline, and reaches to just below the bust. chroma   A color’s saturation or degree of departure from the neutral of the same value. It is determined by the amount of pigment in a color. Hues at 100 percent intensity are fully saturated with pigment; when there is no pigment present, a gray of equal value to the color remains. Also called intensity, saturation. chromatic   A term that describes colors that have a hue— as opposed to those that do not (white, black, and gray). chromaticity coordinates  A measure of the light reflected by the surface of an object when it is illuminated by a standardized light source.

cheongsam

chest measurement  1. Men: distance around body at fullest part of upper torso; one of the measurements by which suits are sold. 2. Women: measurement around the body across the back, high up under the arm and above the fullest part of the bust; differs from the bust measurement, which is taken at fullest part of bosom.  Semi-fitted, chesterfield coat  straight-cut, classic man’s or woman’s overcoat in single- or doublebreasted style, traditionally with a velvet collar. Single-breasted style usually has a fly-front closing.

28

chesterfield coat

chukka boot   (chuh″-ka) Ankle-high laced boot made of leather or suede upper and a leather or rubber sole. cigarette pants  Narrow pants that are cut straight from the knee to the ankle. cinch belt  Wide belt worn pulled tight, usually of elastic or fabric, either laced or clasped in front.

cinch belt

cigarette pants

C: circle/circular skirt to clothes circle/circular skirt  Skirt made by cutting a semicircle out of a piece of fabric folded lengthwise. The selvages are then joined to make a full circle. A half circle skirt is a variation of the circle skirt creating less flare. Popular for skating and general wear in the 1930s, it has remained a basic type of skirt.

class ring  A high school or college ring, designed with a logo that represents the school and includes the class year. classics   Enduring fashion ideas that continue to evolve over multiple seasons through manipulations of color, fabric, and details so that they never go out of style. Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC)  The largest alliance of unions and nongovernmental organizations dedicated to improving working conditions in clothing manufacture. clerical collar   A stiff, white, stand collar worn by clergy with a suit or with liturgical robes.

circle skirt

circular economy  An approach to economic development whereby businesses and consumers decouple growth from the consumption of finite resources by eliminating production waste and focusing on recycling and reuse rather than disposal.

circular knit  Fabric knitted in a tubular shape with no selvage. It may be knit by hand or machine. circular ruffle   Flounce (see flounce) cut from a circle of fabric rather than on the straight grain, making graceful folds that are less bulky than a gathered ruffle. “Flounce” or “Circular ruffle”

clerical dress   See vestments. clip-back earring   An earring that attaches to the ear by means of a spring clip that snaps against the back of the earlobe to secure it. clip-on sunglasses  Sunglasses without frames made with a clip at the center or on either side that allows them to attach over the top of prescription glasses. Some, called flip-up glasses, have a hinge that permits them to flip up. clip-on tie  Tie, pre-tied as a four-in-hand or a bow tie, that is fastened to the collar band by a metal clip. cloche   (klohsh) Deep-crowned hat with very narrow brim or brimless, fitting to the head closely, almost concealing all of the hair.

Smooth at Seam line

cloche flounce or circular ruffle

circular supply chain  A business model whereby supply chain partners work together to eliminate production waste, and find viable uses for the waste that is produced. Circulose®   A new fabric made from recovered cotton using a patented process that strips down worn-out clothes that contain cellulose fiber and turns the pulped fibers into a biodegradable material for fashion garments.

circumference measurement   Body measurement that completely encircles the body at the designated location. Also called girth measurement.

ciréing   A finishing process in which wax or other compounds are applied to the surface of a fabric, after which a hot roller is passed over the surface to produce high polish.

clairvoyant brands   A brand archetype that is proactive and intuitive; these brands anticipate the future and are able to adopt new technology and pivot their product design before their competitors see the change coming.

clamdiggers   Snug-fitting pants that end somewhere between below the knee and mid-calf.

clogs   A shoe or sandal with a rigid, often wooden, sole, originally worn by workers as protective clothing in factories, mines, and farms. Also worn in Scandinavia for clog dancing. cloisonné   A technique of jewelry-making whereby a brass base is enameled with bright colors and fired. closed specs  Design specs that require exact materials and the use of specific suppliers to ensure that first samples of the product will meet expectations. closed-loop recycling systems  Production processes in which postconsumer waste is collected, recycled, and used to make new products. closeout   Merchandise that remains unsold at the end of a season which is subsequently sold at a discount to clear inventory. closure   A device used to close or fasten a garment, such as zippers, buttons, and hooks and eyes. Also called fastener/fastening. clothes   See dress. 29

C: cloud based to collaborative consumption cloud based  Digital data that is stored, managed, and processed on the internet, rather than on local servers or personal computers. cluster pleats   Pressed or unpressed pleats arranged in groups. Usually consist of a large box pleat with several small knife pleats on either side. cluster ring   A style of ring setting with many large and small stones grouped together. cluster sizing  A sizing system that uses data mining of body scans to identify body shapes that are similar in dimensions and proportions within a target market population. clutch bag   Type of handbag frequently used as an evening bag. Sometimes has a strap on back through which hand may be inserted, or a fine chain attached in such a manner that it is of optional use. Frequently made in envelope style, in which case it is called an envelope bag.

clutch bag

coattail   Portion of coat below the back waistline, especially the long back portions of a swallow-tailed coat or a cutaway (see swallow-tailed coat, cutaway). co-branding   A variation of an exclusive brand that links the names of two brand partners—fabric, designer, or retail brands—in a new, exclusive brand offering. The terms of the agreement may be for a single collection or for a specified number of years. COC   Acronym for certificate of compliance. cocktail dress  Short evening dress suitable for formal late-afternoon or cocktail parties. cocktail ring  A large showy ring, either a piece of costume jewelry or of fine jewelry, set with real or imitation precious or semiprecious stones. cocoon   An oval shaped silhouette where the waist is wider than the hem, commonly found in coats, jackets, sweaters and dresses. It is characterized by a slouch shoulder and low cut armhole.

clutch coat  Woman’s coat with no fasteners in front, worn open to reveal the garment underneath or grasped closed with the hand.

cocoon

co-creator   Engaging the consumer/user in the product creation process to enhance the connection the consumer/user has with the product. codes of conduct  Written principles, policies, and rules as the minimum standards a company requires of its suppliers in relation to human resources, employee health and safety, and labor and environmental laws. clutch coat

CMG   Acronym for color marketing group. CMR   Acronym for customer-relationship marketing.

CMT   Acronym for cut, make, trim.

CNIS   Acronym for china national institute of standardization.

coatdress   Dress made of somewhat heavier fabric and fastened down the front from neck to hem, in single- or double-breasted style.

COGS   Acronym for cost of goods sold. cohorts   A group of consumers who share preferences, life experiences, and/or demographics. coiled bracelet   A bracelet made from a long, gold or silver tone finished strip of metal, that curls to fit the arm like a spring. coin bag/coin purse  Small bag that closes by a snap clasp on a rigid frame or by a zipper. Usually carried inside handbag to hold coins and made in leather, clear plastic, or matched to the larger handbag. coin pocket   See change pocket. collaboration   Multiple economic entities that work together for a common purpose to achieve business benefit.

30

coatdress

collaborative consumption  Activities in which goods and/or services are shared between private individuals, either for free or for a fee.

C: collaborative filtering to color wheel collaborative filtering  A process that allows a person to train software by making a series of selections; the software is then able to match its recommendations to the person’s tastes by comparing the individual’s choices with those of thousands of others. collaborative planning, forecasting, and replenishment (CPFR)   The cooperative management of inventory through shared data and replenishment of products throughout the supply chain. collaborative supply chain  Interactive networks of independent manufacturing specialists that join forces operationally to integrate complementary resources in response to a market opportunity through the creation of a particular product. collar   Separate piece attached to an item of clothing at the neckline in order to finish the neckline edge. Made of matching or contrasting fabric; shape may be flat, rolled, standing, or draped. collar pin   A pin worn on the collar of a shirt. collar stay   Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in to the point of a collar from the underside to ensure a crisp, unwrinkled look. collection   Refers to clothing and accessories designed for a specific seasonal delivery. collective selection  The idea that individuals in large numbers choose among competing styles, those that “click” or “connect” with the spirit of the times, thereby forming a feedback loop between the fashion industry and the consumer, moderated by aesthetic trends and social-psychological processes. color   An aesthetic element and a major consideration in the design of women’s clothing. Color Association of the United States (CAUS)   Based in Manhattan, a not-for-profit trade association formed in 1915 to provide color forecasting to members, including corporations and designers concerned with apparel, interiors and furnishings, paint, and automobiles. color blocking  Use of large geometrical areas of contrasting color in dresses, blouses, jackets. color card   A card with swatches of color that indicates the range of color in which a product is offered or for which matching services are available for a particular type of color (dye, paint, ink) on a particular substrate (cotton, polyester, paper). color change   Loss or change of color. color constancy  Refers to a color that is perceived to match a standard regardless of the light source. color cycles   Periodic shifts in color preferences and the patterns of repetition in the popularity of colors.

color direction  An inclination or tendency toward change in color temperature, value, and intensity or the relative importance of a hue. color evaluation  Assessing color against standards throughout the design development and production processes. color forecasting  Predictions of color preferences developed through research carried out by color forecasting, textile, and apparel companies. color harmonies  The way in which colors are used in combination in patterns, prints, or ensembles. color inconstancy  The phenomenon of a single color sample reading as a slightly different color under different light sources. Also called flair. color management   The process of controlling the outcome of a color, from the initial concept (a chip, swatch, yarn, or sample) to the final production output, in a way that is accurate and consistent. Color Marketing Group (CMG)   An international nonprofit association formed in 1962 and based in Washington DC. They provide advanced color information for industries from apparel to automobiles and from healthcare to corporate identity. color palette  The range of colors selected during the initial design phase, that will be included in a seasonal line or collection. color solids  Visual sequential arrangements of color ­associated with a color system’s numerical notation system, which identifies the specific color in color space. The resulting notation system facilitates the visual identification, matching, and reproduction of colors. color specifications   Color notation written according to a system that allows the designer or product developer to indicate the exact hue, value, and intensity specified for a product and helps the supply chain reproduce that color. color standard   A visual fabric reference with color code data to which dyed samples can be measured and compared for accurate color reproduction. color story   A palette of colors, selected for each group in a seasonal delivery, that relates the pieces within that group or delivery to each other, giving visual appeal to a store and encouraging consumers to buy multiple pieces. color temperature   A term used to describe a color’s apparent warmth or coolness in relation to another color. Yellow, orange, and red are traditionally known as warm colors, whereas green, blue, and violet are considered cool colors. color wheel  A graphic representation of color hues around a circle that shows the relationship between primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.

31

C: colorants to computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM) colorants   Dyes, pigments, and optical brighteners used to apply color to fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garments.

market environment, including trends in the industry and what the competition is likely to do.

colorfast   Dye that will not run or fade with wash and wear.

competitive benchmarking   A technique used in competitive analysis that compares a company with its direct competitors on a set of measures such as capital investment, productivity, and product quality.

colorimeter   An instrument that uses filters in combination with a light source and detector to emulate the three-color response functions of the eye. Colorimeters provide data only for a single illuminant and therefore cannot pick up metamerism (see metamerism). They are best used for shade sorting where the concern is matching shades within shipped lots. They are less effective for use in the color-approval process. color-matching systems  A means of identifying the range of color that can be produced on a given material such as paper, cotton, wool, polyester, or silk and, in some cases, the dye formula to obtain that color. color-mixing system   See additive color-mixing system, complex subtractive color-mixing system, simple subtractive color-mixing system, subtractive color-mixing system. colorways   Alternate colors or color harmonies in which a given fabric is available. columnar heel  High circular-styled heel graduating from wide width at sole of shoe to small base. combat boot   Ankle-high laced boot worn by US armed forces and made of special re-tanned leather designed to be waterproof. Adopted as fashionable footwear in the 1980s and 1990s. combination last  A shoe last (see last) in which the heel or instep portion is narrower than standard measurements. comfort stretch  Utilization of stretch in a fabric for comfort only, with stretch not incorporated into the fit of the garment. commodity product   Mass-produced product with few differentiating features so that it can be made available to a large market at a competitive price. company-sponsored foundations  Foundations supported by a company for the purpose of charitable activities. comparative shopping   The process of seeking out similar products at different retail venues in order to compare attributes, especially quality and price. competitive advantage  The strategy a company uses to differentiate its brand and product, such as lower price (Walmart), superior quality (Wolford), unique product features or aesthetic (Burberry), minimal carbon footprint (Patagonia), unique fit (Wacoal), or speed to market (Zara). competitive analysis  The process of using public sources to develop a detailed and accurate view of the

32

complementary   Describes color harmonies that include colors opposite one another on the color wheel. complex grading system  A grading system that distributes circumference changes in size across pattern pieces corresponding to the way they occur on the body. This system requires that the back of garments be graded differently than the front because the increase in circumference is generally greater in the front than the back. complex subtractive color-mixing system  A variation of the subtractive color-mixing system that explains how thick films of color are mixed. compliance   Conformance to an established set of standards that may be set internally or by an external body. compliance officer  A management position that ensures that a fashion company is in compliance with environmental, health, and safety regulations and prepares reports or recommendations as to how the company can comply with proposed regulations or meet higher standards than regulations require. component parts  Elements of a garment that are not part of its basic structure but add aesthetic interest or provide functionality. Examples include collars, cuffs, pockets, and belts. compressibility   How a fabric responds to squeezing. computer grading and marker making  The computer hardware and software systems that process the pattern grading and marker making segments of the pattern for production. The changes in the dimensions of each pattern piece are based on the grade rules entered into the computer system. Markers can be made from selected sizes within the size range. computer-aided design (CAD)   Computer software systems for designing textiles and apparel. This technology can significantly decrease errors and save time because the effects of changes in design can be seen on the computer screen without making actual samples. computer-aided manufacturing (CAM)  The use of software and computer-controlled machinery to automate manufacturing processes. computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM)   Computer manufacturing system that is linked from the design through the production stages.

C: concave dart to contemporary fast fashion concave dart   The legs of the dart curve toward the body from the fullest point converging to a diminishing point. concept board   See mood board. concept garment   Sample garment created to show the potential of new fabrics or garment construction innovations to potential customers. concept review   A checkpoint for a design team to present their ideas to merchant buyers to ensure that design assortments are in sync with line plan expectations that will drive the look and feel of the delivery. At this time, fabric, graphic, color, and silhouette direction are approved. Merchandisers, creative and technical designers, and merchant buyers look to identify any voids in the collection, production challenges, or details that need to be refined. concept stores  Specialty retailers located in fashion capitals that are popular with trend researchers, designers, and buyers because they are known for bringing together a mix of trend-right garments from key designers each season. Examples include Dover Street Market, Merci, and L’Eclaireur. conceptual   An approach to problem-solving that is ­abstract, intuitive, visionary, and creative, as opposed to problem-solving that is more linear, concrete, observable, and clearly defined. Conceptual thinking helps to solve complex problems and come up with creative and original scenarios. concession strategy   A strategy that involves large bigbox or department stores leasing out designated space to a brand that operates somewhat autonomously with its own signage and displays. The brand provides its own staff and does its own buying. concierge brand   A brand archetype that offers best-ofclass service as its competitive advantage.

consumer adoption process   The mental process used by individual consumers in deciding between adopting or failing to adopt an innovation. consumer behavior  Process by which individuals select, purchase, use, maintain, and dispose of fashion products. consumer confidence  An index of consumers’ feelings of economic well-being, used to predict future consumer expenditures and turning points in the business cycle. consumer engagement   An interaction between a consumer and an organization through a variety of online and offline channels. consumer insight   Information about shifts in consumer preferences and aspirations used to determine trend direction and assess a particular market’s interest. consumer mindset   A type of research that explores the way people view products, services, and experiences. Consumer Price Index (CPI)   A measure of the monthly and yearly changes in the prices of selected consumer items in different product categories. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)   A US federal government agency that oversees product safety and, as part of its responsibilities, monitors flammability regulations for apparel and home furnishings. consumer research  Information gathered about consumer characteristics and consumer behavior, including broad trends in the marketplace as well as more specific information about a target group of consumers. consumer segment   A portion of the population identified by demographic characteristics such as age, gender, ethnicity, and income.

conformance   The degree to which the design and performance of a product meet established standards.

consumer segmentation  The practice of dividing the total population into homogeneous groups that can be targeted with products and product information.

conglomerate   Diversified company involved with significantly different lines of business.

consumer tribes  Groups of consumers emotionally connected by similar consumption values and usage.

consignment   Goods stocked by a retailer but not paid for until they are sold. After selling the goods, the retailer pays the person or firm that provided the goods a price agreed upon at the time of consignment.

contagion   The transmission of trends from person to person, similar to the spread of a virus such as the flu.

conspicuous consumption   The behavior of the upper strata of the social system who display wealth by participating in an extravagant lifestyle, including the acquisition of homes and furnishings and the wearing of apparel made by expensive modes of production and using costly materials. consumer   A person or organization that uses a commodity or services.

container   A sealed, rigid, reusable box used to hold goods that require transport by vessel, truck, or rail. Containers can be loaded directly on trucks from the vessels and transported to the unloading point. contemporary designer  A subset of designer goods that offers clothes with a younger vibe and fit as well as a somewhat lower price point than found at designer ready-to-wear. contemporary fast fashion  A price point that falls between moderate and better but is defined by much

33

C: contemporary menswear to corporate responsibility (CR) trendier styling, often a more junior fit, and a development cycle of 4–12 weeks. contemporary menswear   A special type of styling that provides both high quality and fashion. content analysis  A method of analyzing information involving extracting significant data from source material, classifying it, and noting patterns and regularities in the data. continuous placket   One uninterrupted binding used to finish the edges of an opening. contour   The outside line of a shape or the outside surface of a 3D form. contour belt   Any belt that is curved so that it conforms to the body shape.

convertible collar, closed

convertible collar, open

cookie   A small text file created by a website and stored on a user’s computer that allows websites to remember users’ information and browsing history, to provide a more personalized browsing experience. cool   Colors that are calming in nature; they include greens, blues, and purples. In the case of greens they are hues that have more blue than yellow; in the case of purples they are hues with more blue than red. cool hunter   Similar to a trend forecaster, a person who makes observations or predictions on new styles and trends. co-op advertising  An advertising strategy whereby companies share the cost of an advertisement that features a number of companies. cooperative   Business owned and operated by its members, who share the profits, benefits, and responsibilities.

contour belt

contoured waistband  A shaped band and facing created to shape the waistline of the garment and finish the edge. Many jeans styles have contour waistbands. contractor   Company that specializes in the constructing, sewing, and finishing of goods or that specializes in a specific part of the production process (such as pleating piece goods). contrast   A juxtaposition of different colors, shapes, or textures combined in ways that make them stand out from one another. convenience store retailer  Retailer that offers fast service at a convenient location with a limited assortment of merchandise. conversational print   A pattern created from repetitive pictorial representations of everyday items. conversion factor  The percentage of the body dimension that is used when grading a stretch garment. converter   Company that specializes in sourcing base fabrics and using contractors to dye, print, and finish them for apparel manufacturers unable to meet large minimum orders or who require short lead times. convertible collar   Rolled shirt collar that, if worn open, forms small lapels. When worn fastened it fits close to the neck with a partial roll collar and no lapels.

34

coordinates   Apparel items that are organized around color and fabric groups that are intended to be purchased and worn together. COPQ   Acronym for cost of poor quality. copyright law  Laws that provide legal protection for authors of non-useful, original compositions, including literary, dramatic, artistic, and musical works. Copyright protection is generally denied to clothing on the grounds that garment designs are intrinsically useful articles. Copyrights can be obtained for two-dimensional fabric designs, unique combinations of knit stitches, patterns on lace, original graphics on a T-shirt, and on occasion the unique design of ornamental trims such as buttons and buckles. When a work qualifies for copyright protection, protection extends only to the particular manner of expression of the work; it does not extend to the underlying themes or concepts. core competencies   A term used to describe the things that a company does best. core values   The principles that a business holds important, which provide a foundation for managing ­resources and decision-making. corporate culture  The personality of a company, including the way it does business, its relationship to consumers, its style of communications, and the way the company operates internally. corporate responsibility (CR)   See corporate social responsibility.

C: corporate responsibility and/or sustainability manager to couturier

corporate responsibility and/or sustainability manager   A position that oversees a fashion brand’s initiatives to improve the company’s environmental, social, and economic impact across their supply chain. The manager works across the company in implementing and ­assessing the effectiveness of the initiatives and programs. corporate social responsibility (CSR)  A philosophy whereby a company takes into consideration human rights, labor conditions, and environmental implications when making business decisions. Also called corporate responsibility. corporation   Company established by a legal charter that outlines the scope and activity of the company. Corporations are legal entities regardless of who owns stock in the company. correlation techniques   Statistical techniques for comparing how a change in one variable (e.g., advertising effort or some outside factor) causes a change in another variable (e.g., sales volume). corsage   See bodice. corset   Woman’s one-piece, tight-fitting undergarment worn to shape the figure, usually shaped by boning.

corset

Cossack blouse   See Zhivago blouse. cost (wholesale cost or cost to manufacture)  The total cost to manufacture a garment. Derived from the total of the costs of materials, findings, labor, shipping, packaging, overhead, and duty, if applicable. cost estimate   See preliminary cost. cost of goods sold (COGS)  The direct costs of producing the goods sold by a company. It includes the cost of the materials and labor directly used to create the goods, but excludes indirect expenses, such as distribution costs and sales force costs. cost of poor quality (COPQ)   Costs that are incurred as a result of producing defective material. This includes the costs of lost sales, and loss of resources used in rectifying the defect. cost per wear   A calculation used to determine the value of a product by dividing the purchase price of a garment by the number of times it has been worn. cost sheet  A document created during the early stages of the product development process and used

throughout as a dynamic record of decisions made about costs that make up the wholesale price. costing   Process for determining the cost to manufacture a style, including materials, findings, labor, and auxiliary costs such as freight, duty, and packaging. costume   See dress. costume jewelry   Mass-produced jewelry made of brass or other base metals, plastic, wood, or glass, and set with simulated or nonprecious stones. Also called fashion jewelry. cottage industry   A business or manufacturing activity that takes place in the worker’s home rather than in a factory. In the United States, cottage-based industries are carefully regulated. In other countries they can be a welcome form of employment because they enable workers to supervise childcare while they work, but they can also be a situation that is easily exploited. cotton   The most widely used of all the natural fibers. It is the substance attached to the seed of a cotton plant. Cotton fibers are composed primarily of cellulose, a carbohydrate that especially lends itself to the manufacture of fibrous and paper products. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)   A nonprofit organization with a membership of the foremost American designers. Membership is by invitation only. Programs are designed to support and grow the American fashion industry. counterfeit   The term for a product that is a close copy of a designer or brand’s product and passed off as authentic. counterfeiting   A form of trademark infringement whereby well-known trade names, logos, or trademarks are intentionally used on products to mislead consumers. countertrends   Trends that contrast with another prevailing set of trends, both of which offer opportunities for businesses because of the contradictory aspects of human behavior. country of origin   Country where the last step that added value (i.e., substantial change) to the product happened. courier bag   See messenger bag. Courrèges boot   (Koor′-rej) See go-go boot. courses   Rows of loops formed by hooked needles in a knitting machine that run perpendicular to the selvedge of the textile. couture   (French, “sewing”) The highest-priced fashion products produced in small quantities, made of highquality fabrics using considerable hand-sewing techniques, and sized to fit individual clients’ bodies. couturier   (ko-tour′-ee-ay) A firm or designer that makes clothes to a customer’s individual specifications.

35

C: coverage to creative director coverage   The extent to which the arrangement of a pattern covers the background in a print design. coverall   One-piece jumpsuit worn over other clothes by mechanics and other workmen.

cowl collar  A round loose collar attached to the neckline, frequently cut on the bias, that softly folds over itself or drapes in loose folds.

cowl collar

cowl neckline  A draped neckline falling in soft round folds around the collarbone. The blouse or dress is usually bias cut for better drape.

coverall 1942

coverstitch   A stitch that looks like two rows of topstitching on the right side of the garment, and a sergerlike stitch on the back. It is frequently used on knits because of its stretchability and the covering of the raw edge in a single pass. cowl neckline

CPFR   Acronym for collaborative forecasting, and replenishment. CPI   Acronym for consumer price index. CPSC   Acronym commission.

coverstitch

coverstitch machine   Forms a stitch where two or three threads are forced by needles through layers of fabric and then interlooped with a thread from a looper underneath. An additional looper thread may be added on the top. cover-up   A garment designed to be worn over a swimsuit.

for

consumer

planning,

product

safety

cradle-to-cradle   The safe and potentially infinite circulation of materials. When a product is discarded, its components are captured and recirculated in a new and different product. cravat   A wide strip of fabric worn around the neck and tucked into a shirt that is open at the neck.

cowboy boot   See western boot. cowboy hat   Large, ­wide-brimmed felt hat with crown worn creased or standing up, and the brim rolled up on both sides and dipping in front. Sometimes with hatband of leather and silver. Worn in the United States by Western cowboys to shade face and neck. Also called ten-gallon hat when extra tall and cowboy hat: uncreased. ten-gallon type

36

cravat

crease retention   Ability to maintain a crease intentionally set into the fabric. creative director  A position that oversees the overall creative and fashion direction of the fashion brand company. Working with fashion forecasters, designers, and brand managers, the creative director coordinates the creative activities of the brand.

C: crepe to cube heel crepe   1. A general classification of fabrics made from almost any fiber and characterized by a broad range of crinkled or grained surface effects. 2. A crepe yarn that is given a high twist during spinning. crew neckline  Round neckline finished with knit ribbing that fits snugly at the base of the neck.

croquis sketch  (kro′-key) (French, “sketch”) A quick sketch of the figure with a loose drawing of the clothes being designed. Croquis figures are generally elongated, drawn anywhere from 9 to 12 heads high as opposed to a more realistic figure which is traditionally eight heads high. cross dyeing   A piece-dyeing process that produces multiple colors in a blended fabric when dyes that are reactive with each fiber are used in a single dye bath. cross tucks   A series of parallel and perpendicular folds created in a grid pattern and stitched down.

crew neckline

crew sock   Heavy sock extending to lower calf with foot knitted in plain stitch, upper part with rib stitch. crew-neck shirt   Plain pullover knit shirt, usually made with short sleeves and a crew neckline.

cross-body bag  Handbag with long strap designed to be worn with the strap over one shoulder and the bag on the other side of the body, which causes the strap to cross the chest. Popular for travel bags as they are more secure.

crinoline   A stiffened petticoat structure, historically worn to support the skirts of a woman’s dress. Today they may be part of evening or bridal wear. critical defect  Garment flaw that has the potential to cause minor to fatal injuries or unsafe conditions during use and maintenance of the product. crochet   A fabric construction method that uses cord, yarn, thread, or wire to create fabrics. Crocheting involves placing a slipknot loop over a hook, pulling another loop through the first one and repeating to create a chain upon which further stitches are worked. Crochet differs from knitting in that there is only one active stitch at a time, whereas in knitting there are many unworked stitches. crocking   Color rub-off caused by loose dye on the surface of an item. Crocs™   Waterproof, no-slip shoes, perforated in the front and with a sling back. Initially marketed as a boating shoe, the shoes became an almost instant fashion, were much copied, and were made in many colors. cropped   Shortened, or cut off, when referring to hair, or clothing such as blouses, tops, and pants.

cross-body bag

cross-grain   The weft grain which runs in the filling direction of a fabric, perpendicular to the selvedge. cross-merchandising   Strategy by which fashion brand companies combine apparel and accessories in their product offerings and visual merchandising. cross-sectional shape  1. The silhouette of a fiber viewed at 90 degrees to its length. 2. The silhouette of a scanned body viewed at 90 degrees to its length. crotch/crutch   Area of a bifurcated garment where the legs meet. crowdsourcing   The practice of obtaining input regarding products or tasks by enlisting the opinions of a large number of people, either paid or unpaid, typically via the internet. crown   Circlet of precious metal embellished with gems, worn by kings and queens. crystal pleat  Narrow, sharply pressed, heat-set ridges all pressed in one direction. CSR   Acronym for corporate social responsibility. Cuban heel  Medium to high broad heel with slight curve in back.

cropped top

cube heel  Square-backed heel made of leather or Lucite®.

37

C: cuff to cut-offs cuff   1. Finish for a sleeve consisting of a separate sewn-on piece or a turned-back extension of a sleeve. 2. A turnedback piece at the hem of trousers; a trouser cuff. 3. A turned-over or stitched-down band at the top of a boot. cuff bracelet   A rigid bracelet that does not close on the wrist but simply rests on the wrist with a gap or open area on the inside of the wrist. culottes   (ku-lotz′) Pants cut to look like a skirt through fullness or pleats.

curated content  The use of predictive analytics to gather browsing data for a particular customer and use that data to select new products that they might also like. Curated content helps to build loyal customers by decreasing their browsing time. curvilinear line   A line that has a repetitive organic quality, as in a series of curves. customer   A purchaser of goods or services.

customer-relationship marketing (CMR)  The management of interactions with existing and prospective customers during the shopping and sales process in order to build customer loyalty. customer segmentation   See target marketing.

culottes

cultural appropriation  Unauthorized and inappropriate borrowing and/or using of symbolic elements representing a particular culture or ethnic group by individuals who are not part of that particular culture or ethnic group. cultural drift   Directional pointers for the way society is moving. cultural identity   Individuals’ views of themselves as belonging to a particular cultural, racial, or ethnic group. cultural pioneers  Leaders who embody the mission and values of an organization in a way that is shared and embraced by all; individuals in the general public who are adapting their culture and driving positive change by example. cultural sustainability  Strategies for maintaining the aspects of culture that create positive, equitable, and enduring relationships among the current and future members of the society, group, or organization and that retain the value of the physical artifacts that represent the culture. culture   Sum of knowledge, beliefs, attitudes, values, customs, and meanings that defines a group’s particular way of life. Often studied in terms of a particular period of time or a geographic part of the world.

customer touchpoints   All of the methods/technologies by which a retailer can connect with its customers (e.g., brick-and-mortar stores, websites, social media, mobile devices, chatbots, sales personnel, customer service, etc.).

custom-made   See tailor-made.

customs broker  A licensed professional with expertise in tariff and customs laws and rules and regulations for the clearance of imported or exported goods from customs authority. Assists companies in preparation of import or export documents in order to gain customs clearance to import goods manufactured in another country or prepare goods for export. cut and sew construction  A method of knit garment construction in which pieces are cut from yardage rather than knit to shape. Ribbings, when used, are sewn on with a seam rather than linked on. cut order plan   Document generated by the production department of a firm confirming the exact style, sizes, and precise quantities that are to be cut to complete a contract order. Also called cutting ticket.

cut, make, trim (CMT)  Describes a vendor that cuts fabric provided by the client, assembles and finishes the product, and ships it.

cutaway   A coat or jacket that references a 19th-c. man’s riding coat, cut diagonally from the front waist tapering to the knees in back. It may be single-or double-breasted.

cummerbund   Wide fabric belt, sometimes pleated, and fastened in back. Worn with men’s semiformal dinner suit; also adapted by women.

cutaway coat c. 1895

cummerbund

38

cut-offs   Shorts, often denim, made to look as if they are pants that have been cut off above the knee and fringed. See also Daisy Dukes.

cut-offs

C: cutting instructions/cutter’s must to cycle jacket cutting instructions/cutter’s must  A section of the tech pack that alerts contractors who make markers or spread and cut fabric about special requirements of the fabric or style.

cutting ticket   See cut order plan. cyber sale   Special promotions for goods sold digitally. cycle jacket   See motorcycle jacket.

39

40

D: D2C to decorative embellishments

dashiki

bell-shaped or kimono sleeves, and is usually made of an African-inspired distinctive panel or border print. data analytics   The science of analyzing raw data, using mechanical processes and algorithms, in order to draw conclusions about that information. A tool used to help businesses optimize their performance. data integrity   The maintenance and assurance of data accuracy and consistency across its entire lifecycle. D2C   Acronym for direct-to-consumer. Daisy Dukes  Jean shorts with a minimal inseam and a raw-edge hem. Made popular by the 1979 TV show The Dukes of Hazzard. dance skirt  Short skirt worn by dancers over leotard and tights for practicing. dandy   Originating around 1816, a name identifying a man who is excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes—exemplified by Beau Brummell. Used today to describe a man unusually attentive to style, neatness, and fashion. dark web  A part of the internet that is only accessible by means of special software, allowing users and website operators to remain anonymous or untraceable. Though not illegal in itself, it is frequently used for disinformation and illegal activities. dart   Sewing term for a V-shaped tuck used to make gar-

darts diagram

ments conform to the body. Used frequently at shoulders, waist, or in the side seam under the arm. dart equivalent   Integrates the dart into a shaped seam, gathers, pleats, or ease to fit a body contour. dashiki   Short- to full-length garment inspired by a central African style. The American version is cut straight and loose-fitting, is collarless, slips on over the head, has

data mining  Technology used to analyze large databases in order to generate new information. data warehouse  A collection of digital data that contains information collected from a variety of sources over time that can be used to determine patterns and trends. database   A structured set of data held digitally that can be accessed in a variety of ways. data-informed   Using data as a factor in decision-making rather than using it as the entire basis (data-driven). deadstock fabric  Flawed fabrics/materials or fabrics left over from textile mills or past season collections. deck pants  Fitted pants with hem ending below the knees. décolletage   (deh-coll′-eh-taj) The upper part of a woman’s torso. In fashion it refers to bare shoulders or a low-cut neckline, or the shoulder and neckline area of a woman’s body. Also used as an adjective to describe ­apparel with a low neckline. deconstruction   A design movement that began in the 1990s with designers who took elements of garment construction and made them more visible in the final garment, for example, putting garment seams on the outside of clothing, leaving edges raw or frayed, dropping knit stitches, and exposing zippers and pad stitching. decorative dart  The triangular folded portion of a dart that is formed and exposed on the exterior of the garment. decorative embellishments   Fabric manipulation techniques used to decorate garments, such as smocking, quilting, tucking, appliqué, and embroidery.

41

D: deep notch to detachable collar deep notch   A visible hole in the garment due to a notch that was cut too long.

design brief  A set of instructions that outlines project aims, objectives, and final outcomes.

defect   A flaw in material or sewn product that is not acceptable for the planned quality level.

design detail   An element of a garment that creates visual interest within the silhouette.

delamination   The breakdown of the adhesive bond between an interlining and a shell fabric.

design ease  The number of inches/centimeters added to or removed from a garment measurement and the corresponding body measurement to create the silhouette and design concept.

demand   The quantity of a product that consumers are willing and able to purchase at a specific price in a marketplace. demand forecasting   The process of making estimates about future customer demand over a defined period using historical, past-season data. Currently predictive analytics are replacing historical data as a more reliable source for new-season orders. demographics   Population studies that divide broad groups of consumers into smaller, more homogeneous market segments that can be statistically analyzed; variables include population distribution, age, gender, marital status, family size, race, religion, nationality, education, occupation, and income. demonstrated capacity  The total quantity of goods produced at a particular quality level within a specific amount of time. denim   Durable cotton fabric in a twill weave, typically with a blue warp and white filling, primarily used to make jeans. denim jacket  Any jacket made of blue denim fabric. Also called jeans jacket.

design elements   The building blocks of design, including line, color, texture, pattern, silhouette, and shape; they are intrinsic to every product, including apparel. design for durability   Design with the goal of creating a product that is serviceable and desirable for a long period of time. A key tenet of slow fashion. design patent  Legal protection granted to the ornamental design of a functional item. It is valid for 14 years after it is awarded and is not renewable; if it was awarded after May 13, 2015, the design patent has a 15-year term from the date of grant. design principles   A set of values that act as a guide for aesthetically pleasing compositions. Includes proportion, balance, focal point, rhythm, and harmony. design process  The result of many stages of creative thought including research and analysis. design specifications (design specs)  A set of visual and written directions that include a flat technical front and back drawing, instructions about sewing and design details, a list of materials, a preliminary cost estimate, and a set of target measurements from which to create a first sample. designer   Person engaged in creating original products including clothing and accessories. designer brand  Brand classification associated with name designers, high prices, high quality, and distinct prestige. A designer‘s name is frequently used as a brand name. Also called signature brand.

denim jacket

department   Any segment of a retailing establishment that groups together items of merchandise that are complementary to one another, such as a junior department or an active sportswear department. department store  Large multi-brand retail establishment that organizes its functions and merchandise into departments or categories. design   1. n. A plan or drawing that shows the look and function of a garment. A specific variation of a style. 2. v. The process of creating a product by manipulating design elements and principles.

42

designer price point  The highest price category for mass-produced apparel products with customer expectations of exclusive design, high-quality fabrics, and high-end construction details for a narrowly defined niche customer. designer ready-to-wear (RTW)  The most expensive garments that can be bought off the rack. Also known as “prêt-à-porter,” these brands are more profit-oriented than haute couture and may be produced in quantities that vary from 100 garments to several thousand; they are beautifully designed, impeccably made, and use high-quality fabrics. detachable collar   Any collar not permanently attached to the garment with which it is worn.

D: detachable cuff to digital product creation (DPC) detachable cuff   Cuff cut out of an additional piece of fabric rather than being an extension of the sleeve, and which may be taken off, washed, and reattached to the sleeve.

May be knitted or woven and may have many types of collars.

details   The individual components within the structure of a garment that are combined in order to create the final, functional garment. collar bodice darts

armhole or armseye sleeve

hem

skirt

seam hem dress with darts and collar construction details

developmental fabrics  Newly developed innovations in fiber, yarn, or finishing that provide special characteristics or properties and that are presented for consideration to designers and manufacturers. de-verticalization   A strategy for eliminating business divisions that are considered nonessential or not part of a firm’s core competencies, and outsourcing these tasks to companies that can perform them more efficiently. See also vertical integration. dhoti   (doe′tee) Pants with many gathers at waistband, made long between the legs and tapering to ankle. Der. From pants worn in India called by the same name.

dickey

die cutting  Type of cutting that uses a die, or piece of metal with a sharp edge, similar to a cookie cutter, to cut pattern pieces from materials including fabric, leather, and plastic. diffusion curve   A visualization of the fashion cycle as a bell curve showing the progressive participation of consumers, beginning with innovators and early adopters, proceeding to majority adoption, and concluding with laggards. diffusion line  A less expensive line produced by a highfashion designer used to expand the brand’s customer base. diffusion process  The process by which innovations spread within a social system, including the kind of consumers participating at each stage. digital experience platform/architecture  An integrated piece of technology designed to enable the composition, management, delivery, and optimization of a contextualized digital experience across multi-­experience customer journeys. (Gartner) digital first retail   A growing tendency for consumers to begin their shopping journey on digital channels, regardless of where the ultimate transaction takes place. digital luxury  An enhanced digital platform for selling luxury apparel and accessories; the goal is to offer the same kind of personalized experience that a customer would get in store. digital marketing/retailing  The use of the internet, mobile devices, social media, search engines, and other channels to reach consumers. digital marketplace   Online platforms designed to sell a variety of products which they do not own as a service to the brand, which facilitates order fulfillment. digital native  A person brought up with exposure to technology so therefore very comfortable with its use.

dhoti pants

diamond plan   A strategy for line and assortment planning in which basics represent only a small portion of the product mix, key items make up the bulk of offerings, and fashion-forward items are represented at the top of the pyramid. dickey/dicky/dickie   Separate fill-in used inside woman’s low neckline, with or without an attached collar.

digital printing  A method of creating a surface design on a textile in which micro-sized droplets of dye are applied to the fabric through inkjet print heads. digital product creation (DPC)  The practice of designing, prototyping, and approving products in a virtual and collaborative environment which allows for later inventory commitments, enhanced speed to market, and a more efficient and sustainable supply chain.

43

D: digitalization to disruptive change digitalization   The use of digital technologies to change a business model and provide new revenue and valueproducing opportunities; the process of moving to a digital business. digitizer   A table embedded with sensors that relate to the x and y coordinates (horizontal and vertical directions) that allow the shape of the pattern piece to be traced and converted to a drawing of the pattern in the computer. dignity of work   A philosophy that promotes the importance of all workers as deserving of respect and dignity on the job, which nurtures their self-esteem. dimensional pleats   Creased-ridge fabric folds that are permanently set into a pattern. dimensional stability  Ability of a fabric to return to its original shape and size after wear, washing, or dry cleaning. dinner jacket  A man’s semiformal jacket without tails worn with trousers that do not match the jacket. The lapel or shawl collar is typically trimmed in satin or grosgrain. Worn with a bow tie.

adopt the look, style, detail, accessory, or other fashion idea, and public awareness of the idea begins to build. direct-to-consumer (D2C, DTC)  Strategy in which a fashion brand company sells merchandise directly to the ultimate consumer, typically through digital marketplaces or direct sales, rather than selling to a retailer for distribution. dirndl skirt   (durn′-del) A gathered skirt that is attached to a waistband or hip yoke. disability   Condition for which a consumer is considered significantly impaired relative to the usual standards of movement and function, including physical impairment, sensory impairment, cognitive impairment, intellectual impairment, mental illness, and various types of chronic disease. discharge print  Design made on piece-dyed fabric by applying chemicals with a copper roller, with shibori techniques (see shibori), with a screen, or with block printing techniques that dissolve and remove the dye in the design areas. These textiles may be finished after the discharge process, or they may be overdyed for additional color. discount culture   The use of markdowns, either temporary or permanent, to stimulate purchasing. A discount culture is especially prevalent in the United States, where brands have been forced to increase their initial markup in order to accommodate the drastic markdowns that will be taken at retail. A discount culture is counter to price transparency.

dinner jacket

dip dye   A dye technique where cloth is dipped into the dye bath to create color variation effects. direct competitors   Companies that sell the same general product to the same customers in the same distribution channels. direct costing  A method for charging a percentage rate of operating expenses to each garment for costing purposes. direct labor   A cost incurred by an hourly or piece-rate employee in amounts of measurable time during the assembly of a product. direct marketing  Marketing and sales channel by which manufacturers promote and sell directly to the final consumer, bypassing the retail store. direct sourcing  The process of engaging the services of apparel vendors from cut, make, and trim factories to full package vendors without using an intermediary or agent. directional trend  The stage of trend development when fashion innovators and fashion-forward retailers

44

discount retailer  Retailer that sells brand-name merchandise at below traditional retail prices, including merchandise at the budget/mass-market price zone. These stores use many self-service techniques to sell their goods. They operate at lower profit margins and rely on high volume. discretionary income   ​The money that an individual or family has to spend or save after paying for necessities such as taxes, food, clothing, shelter, utilities, and basic transportation. disinformation   In competitive analysis, inaccuracies in published articles, from people misrepresenting their knowledge or expertise, and from countering moves by competitors seeking to protect their secrets. disposable personal income   The amount of money a person has left to spend or save after paying taxes. It is roughly equivalent to what an employee calls take-home pay, and provides an approximation of the purchasing power of each consumer during any given year. disruptive change   An irreversible transformation that affects a portion of an industry and the way they must do business. A new business dynamic that makes old products and ways of doing things obsolete.

D: dissonance to double cloth dissonance   A stage in the consumer adoption process that occurs after purchase when the consumer questions the adoption decision and seeks reassurance. distressing   Finishing processes used on denim, leather, and other fabrics to make them look as though they have aged with time and wear. Processes such as stone washing, enzyme washing, acid washing, sandblasting, emerizing (grinding or sueding with an emery-covered roller), micro-sanding, laser etching, and hand ripping are used to fade the fabric, create whiskered or ladder effects, fray hems and seams, or actually create rips and tears. Sandblasting has been linked to an incurable form of lung cancer resulting from inhaling fiber particles released in processing and has been banned by most reputable brands and manufacturers. distribution center  Centralized location used by fashion brand companies for quality assurance, tagging, picking, packing of merchandise, and distribution to retail stores or the ultimate consumer. distribution center manager  Oversees the overall performance of a distribution center, including budget, productivity, safety, and efficiency; leads a workforce toward common productivity goals. distribution channel  The network used to get a good or service from the producer or creator to the final consumer. Common channels of distribution today are brick-and-mortar stores, digital platforms, catalogs, and direct-to-consumer. distribution strategy   System used by businesses to assure that apparel is placed in stores that sell to the target market for whom the merchandise was designed and manufactured. diversification   A strategy in which a firm expands its product mix to capitalize on brand recognition and increase sales, and thus enhance efficiencies for greater profit. Like horizontal integration, diversification may be achieved through licensing or by the acquisition of related or unrelated companies. diversity   Demographic mix of a people that includes both individual differences (e.g., personality, life experiences, perspectives) and group/social differences (e.g., race, ethnicity, socioeconomic status, gender, sexual orientation, gender identity, country of origin, and ability as well as cultural, political, religious, or other affiliations). dividend   Corporate profits paid to its stockholders; dividends are taxed as personal income. division   An organizational unit that a business may use to manage different aspects of its business in order to give them proper focus. Fashion businesses may be divided into men’s, women’s, and children’s divisions; wovens and knits; price point; or by product category.

divisional merchandise manager   Manages and works with a group of merchandise managers or buyers within a retail environment to assure appropriate merchandise assortments and effective budgeting; this position is typically part of a company’s executive team, providing input on strategic decisions that affect the company. Doc Martens  Lace-up boots with air pocket soles to ease pressure on the feet. The boots, first marketed in 1959, were adopted by skinheads and punks in the 1960s and 1970s, and subsequently became widely popular among young people. doctor’s bag   Large handbag shaped like the bag traditionally carried by a physician. It has two handles, one on either side of hinged top opening. dog ear collar  A flat collar of medium size with long rounded ends that resemble a spaniel’s ear. dolman sleeve   Sleeve fitted at wrist but cut with deep armhole so that it somewhat resembles a cape from the back. Also called batwing sleeve.

dolman or batwing sleeve

dome ring   A ring with a high-rounded top. It may be set with or without stones. domestic contractor  A factory located in the same country as where the finished goods will be distributed. domestic market  A distribution and sales network where the supply and demand of products or services is located in the same country. domestic sourcing  Procurement of materials and/or manufacturing finished products in the country where the merchandise will be sold at retail. Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)  An agreement signed in 2004 to gradually eliminate most tariffs, customs duties, and other trade barriers between the United States and Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua. doo rag  Head covering with the appearance of a head scarf tied in the back with long, hanging tail. Usually made from brightly colored fabrics or leather. double cloth  Heavy fabric consisting of two separate fabrics woven at the same time and having a binder yarn that moves from one layer to another to hold them together. These fabrics are usually reversible, in which case they are referred to as double-faced.

45

D: double collar to drape double collar   A collar designed in two layers, each with the same neckline curve but with the lower layer slightly larger than the upper layer along the outer edge. The two collars may be the same shape but different sizes or cut asymmetrically with two different contours on the outer edge.

double-ended dart  A dart that originates at the apex level of the bust and extends to the hip, contouring the fabric to the curves of the body from bust to waist to hips.

double-entry pocket   Pocket that may be entered from the top or side, or a kangaroo pocket, which can be entered from both the right and left side. double-puffed sleeve  Full sleeve with band around arm that divides it into two puffs. double-welt pocket   See bound pocket.

double collar

double complementary  A color scheme that consists of two colors on either side of a hue and the two on the other side of its complement. double knit  Knit fabric in which face and back of the fabric have a similar appearance. Made in a rib knit construction using double sets of needles; the resulting fabric is heavier, has greater dimensional stability, and less tendency to sag or lose its shape than single-knit fabrics. double taxation  Situation with a C or regular corporation whereby earnings of the corporation are taxed twice—once at the corporate level and again at the dividend level. double tee  A layered look with one T-shirt or other garment worn over another; can be harmonious or contrasting colors or textures to create different visual impact. The hem of one layer may be longer than the other for emphasis.

doupioni/douppioni/doppione   (doop-ee’-on-ee) Yarn or fabric made from silk yarn reeled from double cocoons, or two interlaced cocoons in which the silk is intertwined. Yarn has uneven slubs rather than being smooth, giving a decorative texture to the fabric.

down jacket  An outerwear jacket that has been insulated with the under-feathers from ducks or geese to provide warmth. downcycling   The process of recycling materials or products into new materials or products of lesser quality or reduced functionality.

downstream supply chain activities  Activities that occur at the end of the supply chain, such as distribution, wholesaling, retailing, and customer service. Downstream activities create the final bridge between the product and the end user.

downward-flow theory  ​The theory of fashion adoption that maintains that to be identified as a true fashion, a style must first be adopted by people at the top of the social pyramid. The style then gradually wins acceptance at progressively lower social levels. Also called trickle-down theory. DPC   Acronym for digital product creation.

double tee

double-breasted   adj. The front opening of a garment lapped over double and fastening with two rows of buttons. Originally both rows were functional, now one row is usually decorative.

Dr. Scholl’s exercise sandals  A simple sandal developed by Dr. Scholl in the late 1960s; its wood sole is characterized by a raised toe and contoured bottom that causes the foot to grip and flex the shoe when walking. The simple leather band across the top of the wood sole comes in a variety of colors.

drafting   Patternmaking process whereby pattern shapes are drawn based on body measurements plus ease allowances. drag lines  Unintended folds that form horizontally or vertically in a garment, indicating fitting problems that need to be resolved. drainpipe pants   See stovepipe pants.

double-breasted blazer

46

drape   1. n. The degree to which fabric falls into graceful folds when hung or arranged in different positions. 2. v. The act of creating fashion designs by manipulating, pinning, and cutting muslin or other fabric over a dress form. In this technique, the draped garment is then used to create a pattern from which a garment can be made.

D: draped collar to driving glove draped collar   A collar or lapel that falls into soft folds rather than lying flat against the body.

dress shirt  Traditional buttoned-down-the-front shirt usually worn by men with a necktie and a traditional suit. Made to be tucked into the waist of pants; tab, spread, buttoned-down, or pin collar; and long sleeves with barrel or French cuffs. dressing gown   Women’s lightweight wraparound robe worn before or after bedtime or after bathing. Similar to a robe, but a robe is generally made of a more absorbent functional fabric.

draped collar

draping   A method of patternmaking in which fabric is shaped around a body form to create a garment prototype. drawstring   Ribbon or cord inserted through a band, hem, or casing of fabric that can be pulled and tied to form a closing, such as in drawstring bags, necklines and collars, waistlines on pants and skirts.

dressmaker   A person who makes clothing for private customers. dressmaker suit   A woman’s suit made with soft fabrics and minus the tailoring techniques that give traditional suits their permanent shape.

dressmaker suit

drawstring waist

dress   1. n. Body covering or adornment associated with a particular time, place, or population. 2. n. A one- or two-piece item of apparel, worn predominantly by women, that covers the torso and at least part of the legs. 3. v. To put on a garment. 4.  v. To tan and finish hides for leather use. 5. adj. Describes garments worn for special occasions. dress form  A three-dimensional full or scaled representation of the body or partial sections (such as torso or legs) that is placed on a stand to facilitate patternmaking, draping, and fitting. Dress forms are generally covered in fabric so as to be pinnable; they may have tapes to JACKET & SKIRT & COAT DRESS ­locate key body placements of LENGTHS LENGTHS bust, waist, hips, center back, and center front.

dress lengths  Dresses are often referred to or described by their length. This diagram indicates where those lengths fall on the body.

dress shield  Protective device placed inside a dress under the arm to prevent staining of the garment by perspiration.

dressy casual  Coined in the early 2000s to describe clothing that is less dressy than cocktail attire but more formal than sneakers and active sportswear. Men may remove their tie; women may wear a sundress and sandals. drill hole  A puncture in the fabric to mark the ends of darts or pocket placement. Drill holes should be placed so as to be just short of the dart point and inside the pocket—never visible from the outside of the garment. D-ring closure  D-shaped rings on belts and footwear used for fastening or lacing.

waist

D-ring closure

hip micro mini mini

three quarters seven eighths nine tenths

knee calf mid-calf midi ballerina ankle/ maxi full

dress lengths

driving glove   1. Unlined gloves made of very thin, soft leather that help the wearer to grip a steering wheel. They often feature a perforated design on the top of the hand and a keyhole opening on the bottom of the wrist to make it easier to get them on and off. 2. A knitted glove with a leather palm to better grip a steering wheel.

47

D: driving shoe to dust cover driving shoe   A casual moccasin or slip-on shoe, ideal for driving because of its flexible grip sole that wraps partway up the heel to protect the back of the shoe. This sole may also be found on sneakers. drop   1. A marketing technique whereby limited runs of new styles are released in store and online at regular intervals, creating frenzied interest among loyal consumers. The strategy was first used by streetwear and skateboard companies. 2. (Menswear) The difference in inches/centimeters between the chest measurements of a suit jacket and the waist of the pants. The most common is the 6″ (15 cm) drop.

due diligence   A comprehensive assessment of a potential or existing business/supply chain partner to assess the assets and liabilities of doing business with said partner and remedying issues and publicly reporting on how they are addressed. duffel bag  Large barrel-shaped bag with a zipper or drawstring closure at the top and a shoulder strap and/ or handles. Used originally by sailors and soldiers to transport their clothing and other items, copied in various sizes for handbags, beach bags, and luggage. May have an extra piece of fabric on outside that forms large pockets around outside of bag.

drop earring  Any earring in which the lower part swings free. drop-front   adj. Descriptive of pants fastened by two buttoned plackets on either side of the center front, allowing the front panel to drop down when unbuttoned. Used frequently on jodhpurs, other riding breeches, and in the past on US Navy seamen’s pants. duffel bag

duffel coat   A shorter-length car coat fastened with toggles rather than buttons, introduced during World War II, and worn by men in the British Navy.

drop-front

dropped shoulder   The shoulder of the garment extends over the upper arm with the sleeve seam positioned on the upper arm rather than at the natural armhole. dropped waist/dropped waistline   Describes a women’s garment where the waist seam is located below the natural waistline. dropping   See letting-out. dry cleaning  A method of refurbishment that uses a nonaqueous solvent for cleaning. dry finish   Chemical application in the form of a liquid or foam used to change the physical performance characteristics of a fabric. DTC   Acronym for direct-to-consumer. dual distribution  A manufacturer’s policy of selling goods at both wholesale and retail. duck shoe  Formerly trademarked Oxford or slip-on style shoe, usually made in two colors of manufactured waterproof materials with chain-tread rubber soles.

48

duffel coat or toggle coat

dumping   A practice of selling off goods that have lost value in the open market to a country that has no import restrictions, thereby threatening the value of the same product in the local economy. dungarees   1. Work pants or overalls named for the coarse blue fabric from which they are made. 2. In Britain, refers to bib pants of any fabric. durability   The strength of a textile exhibited through time and use. A durable textile lasts because it resists the mechanical stress of abrasion, cutting, ripping, and tearing. durable press   See permanent press. dust cover   A soft cloth bag that is sold with expensive designer bags or shoes to protect them when not in use.

D: duster coat to dye sublimation duster coat  A loose-fitting, full-length, straight coat with or without buttons and often with a back vent or slit that extends to the waist. Originated in the early 20th c. to protect clothing from dust when riding in a car.

duty   A specific amount of money paid according to a predetermined tariff rate decided by a government and/ or signatories to a trade agreement. Duties are paid to the government of the country importing the goods or services so as to protect domestic products and services from low-price foreign competition. dye   A substance applied to fabric in order to change its color; a dye chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied. dye lot   A group of materials that were dyed at the same time and under the exact same circumstances in order to maintain color consistency.

duster

dye sublimation  Printing process in which dyes are transferred to a receiver sheet by a digitally driven thermal printhead; variations in temperature control the amount of dye that sublimates, thus varying the color intensity. Dye can then be heat transferred from sheet to printable surface.

49

50

E: ear jacket/earring jacket to Edwardian ecclesiastical vestments   Garments worn by the clergy for religious services. eco-friendly   adj. Referring to apparel that is made in an effort to do no harm to the environment. Eco-label   A European program designed to help consumers recognize environmentally friendly products and services. ecology   The study of the interactions between organisms to one another and their physical environment. e-commerce   ​Commercial transactions through digital services or on the internet.

conducted

economic indicators   Statistics associated with general economic performance of an economy, used to analyze and predict the health of national or global economies. ear jacket/earring jacket  A companion piece to an earring that consists of various shaped, separate pieces with holes in their tops that may be slipped on to a post to create a variety of earring styles. earmuffs   Two disks of wool, fur, felt, or other fabric worn to keep the ears warm in winter. Disks are generally fastened to a springy metal band that fits over top of the head. Earth Pledge  A US voluntary partnership between businesses and governments to accelerate the adoption of sustainable practices. ease   1. n. The amount of difference between the body measurements of the intended wearer and the corresponding measurements of the finished garments. 2. n. Factor taken into consideration when drafting a pattern— allowing extra measure at bust, waist, and hips, so garment will fit comfortably while allowing for movement. 3. v. The process of joining a slightly larger garment piece to a smaller garment piece by evenly distributing the fullness along the seam where the pieces are joined.

ease gathers

economic obsolescence  Obsolescence created because it is less costly to purchase a new item than to repair and/or alter a worn item. economic sustainability  The ability for individuals, companies, communities, and countries to sustain indefinitely a defined level of economic production while safeguarding and sustaining the required environmental, material, and human resources. economy of scale  A business principle that suggests that cost savings are accrued by increasing the scope of production or responsibilities. ecosystem   A community of interdependent organisms that share a habitat. edging   Narrow, decorative border of lace, embroidery, braid, or fringe used for trimming on clothing, particularly at hem, sleeve, or neck. EDI   Acronym for electronic data interchange editorial credit  ​The mention in a magazine, newspaper, or digital media of a store name as a retail source for merchandise that is being editorially featured by the publication. Edwardian   adj. Descriptive of apparel that is in the style of the Edwardian period (1901 to 1910). Pertaining to fashions based on a revival of such elements of dress of this period, including nipped waistlines, Regency collars, capes, and neck ruffles worn by both men and women.

east-west bag  A bag that is longer in width than it is in height. E-BROIDERY®   A process registered by Forster Rohner Textiles that uses yarns and threads with electrical properties to “quilt” electronic circuitry into a garment. Numerically controlled embroidery using conductive thread defines circuits, component connection pads, and sensing surfaces. Edwardian jacket c. 1896

51

E: Edwardian jacket to engineered stripe Edwardian jacket   Fitted jacket made with some flare at back and sides and vents at sides or center back. Styled with double- or single-breasted closing and high notched lapels. Popular between 1895 and 1914. Egyptian sandal   Thong-type sandal with T-strap coming up over instep to join two straps attached to both sides of sole. Eisenhower jacket  A waist-length, formfitting battle jacket originally worn by American servicemen in World War II. elastic   A narrow textile that is braided, woven, or knit with insertions of elastomeric filament such as rubber or spandex. elasticity   Ability of fabric or yarn to stretch and return to its original shape when tension is released. elasticized waistline   A waistline used for pull-on pants, skirts, and dresses that may be made in three ways: (1) Elastic inserted through a casing. (2) Elastic sewn to the garment fabric. The elastic is stretched to the size of the fabric, sewn down with two or more rows of stitching, thereby causing the fabric to gather. (3) Elastic or elastic thread stitched directly to the fabric at a waistline; used mainly for dresses with a waistline seam, for panties, and for half-slips.

is to inspire a generation to rethink, redesign, and build a positive future circular economy. embodied energy   The energy used in making a product, including fiber production, manufacturing, shipping to market, and final disposal. emboss   A process to produce a raised design or pattern in relief on fabrics by pressing the cloth between hot, engraved rollers that press the design into the fabric. In heat-sensitive fabrics, embossing is permanent. embroidery   A method of decorating fabric with handor machine-stitched designs in colored thread or yarn. emotionally durable design   Emotional and experiential relationship between a consumer and the products they purchase, resulting in extending the life of the product. Empire waist  (em′-pire or ohmpeer′) Garment with a high waistline located just under the bust.

Empire waist elasticized waist

elastomeric filament   Soft fibers that have the ability to stretch 400 percent or more and return to their original size. Spandex is an example.  elbow-length sleeve   Any sleeve that stops at the elbow. electronic data interchange (EDI)  A standardized format for the digital exchange of business documents between companies. elephant-leg pants   Trousers with extremely wide legs with the flare starting at the crotch and continuing down the entire leg.

52

endorsement   Use of an individual, usually a celebrity, or an organization that states, in an advertisement or in public, approval and preference for a particular product. Generally, those making endorsements are paid. engagement rate  The ratio of likes and comments to total followers on social media. engagement ring   Ring given to a romantic partner to signify that they plan to be married. Traditionally set with a diamond.

elevator heel   A heel on a man’s shoe worn to make him appear taller. Inside of shoe is built up at the heel, making the outside of shoe appear lower than it is. Attached heel lift is higher than average. Ellen MacArthur Foundation  A nonprofit organization whose goal

endangered species   As it relates to fashion, species of animals and birds that are becoming rare because they are being slaughtered for clothing, accessories, adornment, and other reasons. International treaties, federal laws, and state laws have been enacted to protect endangered species.

engineered print  Planned print layout that corresponds to where the print falls on the garment.

elephant-leg pants

engineered stripe  The strategic knitting of stripes so that they fall where the designer wants them to fall on the garment.

E: engraved roller printing to ethics engraved roller printing  A method of creating a surface design on a textile that utilizes steel cylinders coated with an outer layer of copper into which a ­design is etched. Each color in the print requires a separate roller. ensemble   (ahn-sahm′-bl) 1. An entire costume, including accessories, that is worn together. 2. More than one item of clothing designed and coordinated to be worn together, such as a dress and coat or dress and jacket. enterprise resource planning (ERP or ERPS)  Software programs that allow all the applications needed to run a business to store, share, and analyze information using a single database that updates simultaneously. entrepreneur   A person who takes on the risk of organizing and managing a business. envelope bag   A clutch bag shaped like a postal envelope. environment   The conditions under which we live that affect our lives and influence our actions. environmental audit  An assessment of the extent to which an organization is observing practices that minimize harm to the environment. environmental scanning  The ongoing process of surveying a variety of resources for economic, political, social, technological, and cultural conditions for insights into how they impact fashion. environmentally friendly  adj. Describes products that are manufactured using methods and materials which do not harm the natural environment. environmental sustainability  Focuses on sustaining the earth’s natural resources using practices that (1) reduce consumption of nonrenewable resources and (2) ensure that consumption of renewable resources does not exceed their long-term rates of natural regeneration. enzyme wash  A wash process, often used on denim, that gives fabrics a worn-in look and feel. epaulet/epaulette   (ep′-oh-let) 1. Ornamental shoulder trim used on military uniforms, originally consisting of gold braid looped to form fringe around the edge. 2. Flat band of fabric, sometimes fastened with a button, on

shoulders of uniforms; also used on military-style civilian coats and jackets (e.g., trench coats), and on blouses, coats, dresses, shirts, and jackets. epaulet/epaulette sleeve.

sleeve   (ep′-oh-let) See saddle

equity   The amount of money that would be returned to owners or shareholders if all of a company’s assets were sold off and its debt paid off. ergonomic design   The design of garments with the intention of enhancing body movement, fit, and physical and psychological comfort. erogenous zone theory  (e-raj′-ah-nas) Theory expounded by James Laver, noted British authority on historic costume, who believed that emphasis in dress tends to shift from one erogenous zone of the body to another (e.g., when short hemlines are worn, the legs are in focus; when plunging necklines are worn, the breasts are emphasized). eroticism   An aesthetic that focuses on sexual desire. ERP   Acronym for enterprise resource planning. ERPS   Acronym for enterprise resource planning systems. espadrille   (ess-pa′-dril) Rope-soled shoe with canvas or leather upper. Some versions tie on with long shoelaces threaded through top of shoe, crossed, and tied around the ankle.

espadrille

e-tailer   A digital retailer. eternity ring   A narrow band of precious metal, often set with precious stones all the way around the band, given or worn as a token of enduring love. Also referred to as an infinity ring. ethical production  Production that reflects standards associated with workers’ rights, fair compensation, and workplace health and safety. ethical purchasing  A company policy that bases purchasing decisions on a fair price that does not compromise supply chain employees’ living standard, health, or safety, as opposed to negotiating solely on ­obtaining the lowest price no matter how workers’ lives are impacted. ethical sourcing  Sourcing decisions that result in socially, environmentally, economically, and culturally sustainable fashion products.

epaulet

ethics   Moral principles that govern an organization’s behavior and the way it conducts business.

53

E: ethnic to extrinsic quality cues ethnic   adj. Descriptive of fashionable clothing and accessories derived from or inspired by native or national styles of nations or cultures. ethnicity   Identification with a common cultural heritage, including language, social, religious, and/or national experiences. ethnographic research   Adapted from applied anthropology, a marketing research technique that allows marketing researchers to be “participant observers” of their customers in their “natural environment.” Eton jacket   Straight-cut jacket with collar and wide lapels worn unbuttoned or with only top button closed, reaching to waist or a little below. Adapted from jackets worn by underclassmen at Eton preparatory school in England until 1967.

Exoskeleton technology is used medically and in gaming as an external frame that can be worn to support the body, either to help a person overcome an injury or to enhance their biological capacities. Powered by a system of electric motors, the frame gives limbs extra movement, strength, and endurance. experience management  A marketing strategy that focuses on how the consumer experiences a brand. export   1. v. When a country provides goods to another country. 2. n. A product or service that is sold to another country. exposed zipper  A zipper stitched onto the outside of the garment to show the teeth and zipper tape.

Eton jacket c. 1896

European Committee for Standardization (CEN)   An international nonprofit organization developing voluntary national standards for European countries. evening wear  Used in the retail industry to refer to clothes worn primarily in the evening for formal or semiformal occasions. exclusive brands  A licensing arrangement between a brand owner and a retail distribution partner that gives the retailer all rights to distribute products under that brand name in a particular product category or categories. exclusive distribution  Strategy manufacturers use to limit the retailers to which their merchandise is distributed and thus create an image of exclusiveness. exercise sandal   Any of a variety of sandals designed to support the foot properly during exercise. The earliest of these was the trademarked Dr. Scholl’s exercise sandals (see Dr. Scholl’s exercise sandals). exercise suit   See aerobic wear. exoskeleton   Wearable devices that work in tandem with the human body to augment, reinforce, and restore physical performance. The application of robotics and biomechatronics to enhance human performance.

54

exposed zipper

extended facing   A facing cut as a part of the garment shell and folded back on to itself to provide a soft edge and eliminate bulk. extended marketing channel   A distribution arrangement in which wholesalers acquire products from manufacturers and sell them to retailers. extended shoulder   A shoulder seam that extends beyond the shoulder, eliminating some of the sleeve cap. also called dropped shoulder. extensibility   The extent of stretch in a fabric. external selling   Strategy used by fashion brand companies to sell merchandise to multi-brand retailers, either through corporate selling and/or through the use of sales representatives. extranets   Business-to-business private networks for transactions and collaborative forecasting between manufacturers and their suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers. extrinsic quality cues  External influences that contribute to the consumer’s perception of quality, such as

E: eye candy to eyelet price, image, and reputation of the brand and retailer, country of origin, advertising and marketing, and visual presentation. eye candy  Something that is visually exciting. In fashion, most often applied to jewelry, lingerie, or other decorative garments.

eyelet   1. A fabric in which holes are punched as decoration and are embroidered around the edges to keep them from fraying. 2. A small round hole in leather or cloth through which a lace, string or rope can be threaded or through which a buckle can attach. Eyelets may be finished with a metal grommet or ring or they be overcast.

55

56

F: fabric to fading mood, and end use of the collection. Like color stories, a well-chosen fabric story helps the retailer in merchandising the sales floor and encourages consumers to buy multiple pieces. fabrication   The process of selecting fabrics for a seasonal line, groups within a line, and each style within a group. fabrics, materials, and trims buyer  Works closely with sourcing analysts to research vendors for fabrics, materials, and trims. Negotiates terms of sale for purchasing fabrics, materials, and/or trims. face   The most interesting or right side of a fabric. face-up or face-down  Terms used when cutting garments to designate whether the pattern is placed on the right side of the fabric or on the wrong side.

fabric   Material formed from knitted, woven, crocheted, felted, or bonded yarns. fabric costs   Generally make up 35 to 50 percent of a domestically produced garment and 50 to 70 percent of a garment sourced offshore.

facing   Fabric piece attached to the raw edge of some part of a garment in order to finish that edge. Facings are used in areas such as necklines, armholes of sleeveless dress, and openings at the front or back. Hems may also be faced. The verb “to face” describes the act of applying a facing.

fabric face   The side of the fabric that is worn on the outside of a garment. fabric finishing  Processes used to manipulate the appearance characteristics, performance, or hand of a fabric, including mechanical or chemical techniques and the application of films to the fabric surface. fabric librarian   A person responsible for developing and maintaining fabric libraries for companies within the industry. The librarian researches new materials; tracks trends; chooses and organizes fabrics to be included in the library; selects, identifies, and locates fabrics for designers and/or other clients; and provides information regarding materials.

facings at armhole, neck, and front closing

factor   A financial agency that purchases outstanding invoices and sends a company an advance on the invoice value.

fabric library  A collection of fabric samples where designers and product developers can go to research fabrications and source fabrics. Fabric libraries may be in-house or industry sponsored; they may feature vintage swatches or only currently available swatches.

factory auditing   Processes for verifying that standards associated with codes of conduct are being met by production facilities.

fabric manipulation   The art of reshaping the surface of a textile through various techniques, both structural and decorative.

factory outlet retailer   A type of off-price retailer that sells its own seconds, irregulars, or overruns (merchandise produced in excess of its orders), as well as merchandise produced specifically for the outlet stores.

fabric platforming  The use of a common fabric across multiple styles for multiple seasons. This includes yarns, greige goods, dyed fabric, and blank garments. Reducing the number of different fabrics used in a given season and reusing fabrics from season to season to keep costs down. fabric story  Related fabrics chosen for a particular group within a seasonal delivery that reflect the theme,

factory outlet mall   A shopping center that houses a variety of factory outlet stores.

fad   A short-lived fashion that suddenly becomes extremely popular, exists as a trend for a short period of time, and fades relatively quickly. fading   Loss of color in fabrics from exposure to light, washing, dry cleaning, or contact with ordinary household fumes.

57

F: fagoting to fashion designer fagoting   1. A stitch used to join two finished edges of fabric together in decorative openwork. 2. The same effect achieved by attaching two folded edges of fabric to a lace tape. faille   Fabric with a flat-ribbed effect running crosswise that is flatter and less pronounced than grosgrain.

fascinator   A woman’s decorative headpiece, worn in place of a hat, with a base that is 4″ (10 cm) diameter or less, and attaches to the head with a comb or hairclip. Decorated with flowers, tulle, beads, and feathers, they are fanciful and highly ornamental.

Fair Isle sweater  Sweaters, both pullovers and cardigans, originally imported from Fair Isle off the coast of Scotland. Characterized by soft heather effect and bright-colored knit in traditional patterns. Name also applied to sweaters imitating this style.

fascinator

fashion   A culturally endorsed form of expression discernable at any given time; it changes over time within a social system or group of associated individuals. Fair Isle sweater

fair trade   International trade networks that provide fair and equitable wages, healthy and safe working conditions, transparency, and attention to human rights and environmental impact. fall   The part of a collar that turns over the collar stand onto the garment. See tailored collar. fallout   The fabric remaining in the spaces between pattern pieces after a garment style is cut. These remaining fabric pieces are often recycled. falsies   Bust pads, usually foam filled, that are inserted into a bra to give a fuller appearance. fan   A handheld implement for creating a breeze. Some are made rigid—wedge-shaped, round, or flat. Others are pleated, collapsible, and attached to a handle. Made of carved ivory in early Egypt, China, and Japan, fans have been in common use by women in the Western world from mid-16th c. Materials used include paper, fabric, lace, tortoiseshell, feathers, hand-painted silk, and woven palm.

fan

58

fashion blog  Commentary by fashion influencers or professionals available on the internet which invites dialogue with readers. fashion brand   A brand associated with fashion merchandise. fashion business  Any business concerned with goods or services in which fashion is an element—including fiber, fabric, and apparel manufacturing; distribution; advertising; publishing; and consulting. fashion calendar   1. A schedule for the current year that indicates the market weeks, or dates, when designers’ or manufacturers’ new lines may be seen by buyers. 2. Retail store schedule that lists all fashion promotions for the store, including fashion shows, advertising, and special promotions. fashion color   Color used in a seasonal line that reflects the current color trends, determined by the fashion brand company for the target customer. fashion consumption   Acquisition, storage, usage, maintaining, and disposing of fashions. fashion cycle  The lifespan of a fashion product or a fashion trend, consisting of five stages: (1) introduction, (2) adoption, (3) rising popularity, (4) peak or saturation, and (5) decline. The first group of consumers to adopt new fashions are generally known as fashion leaders, while consumers who adopt a new fashion after the fashion leaders are called fashion followers or fashion emulators. fashion designer  A person who creates original clothing, accessories, and/or footwear. This process includes sketching the design, selecting the fabrics and trims, making or overseeing the development of a pattern, and making or giving instructions on how to make the product.

F: fashion director to fashion show fashion director   The job of a fashion director varies depending on the type of fashion business for which they work. In general, they are responsible for the overall fashion image of the business, be that a magazine, brand, retailer, etc. They are concerned with consistency between the look of editorial promotions, advertising, and social media; they are responsible for ensuring that the look of the brand reflects the mission and values of said brand. fashion forecasting   The process of predicting trends in the fashion industry, usually two or three years ahead of the current season. A variety of factors, including mood, behavior, economy politics, and cultural events, play into the mix.

fashion leader   A person to whom others look for advice about clothes or other aesthetic products; see also opinion leader. fashion marks   The stitch formation in full-fashion knitted garments, where stitches have been increased or decreased to shape the garment. Distinguishes full-fashion knits from cut and sewn knits, in which the garment shape is cut from knitted yarn goods and shape is incorporated from traditional shaping devices, i.e., darts and gathers.

fashion-forward   adj. Describes designers, retailers, consumers, and merchandise that represent the newest, most fashionable styles. fashion-forward product   Product that is geared to the store’s leading-edge customers; it may only be distributed online and in prime store locations. Fashion-forward products help a product developer test the market for upcoming seasons. Made in relatively small quantities and often more complex in design, these items are the most expensive to produce and carry the highest risk. fashion goods   Merchandise that reflects current fashion trends as opposed to basics; fashion goods are more risky financially because they are less stable and may have a shorter life span than basics. Fashion Group International, The  An international professional association of those who work in manufacturing, marketing, retailing, communication, and education of fashion. Founded in 1931, the organization’s archives contain data related to the fashion industry since the founding of the organization; they are housed at the New York Public Library. fashion helmet   Any helmet designed as a fashion item rather than for protection. May be made of leather, fabric, fur, plastic, or other materials. fashion influencer   A person who has a large number of followers on social media, creates mostly fashion content, and influences his or her followers in their styling and purchasing decisions. Brands sometimes pay influencers to promote their product if the influencer has a large following similar to the brand’s own target market. fashion innovator  A person who is confident in their taste and likes to make a statement with how they dress. They are eager to try out new fashion ideas and don’t wait for others to introduce an idea. fashion law  An area of law that focuses on issues that arise from concept, to manufacture, to distribution, and consumption of a fashion item. fashion jewelry   See costume jewelry.

fashion marks pullover sweater

fashion merchandising   The planning required to have the right fashion-oriented merchandise at the right time, in the right place, in the right quantities, at the right prices, and with the right sales promotion for a specified target customer. fashion plate  1. An illustration depicting the prevailing or new styles in clothing and accessories. First introduced in last quarter of the 18th c., hand-colored, engraved fashion plates became important features in women’s magazines of the 19th c. 2. An individual who consistently dresses in the latest fashions. fashion resale  The re-selling of fashion merchandise with the goal of extending the life of the fashion products through multiple owners. fashion retailing  The process of selling fashion merchandise to ultimate consumers. fashion season   Name given to lines or collections that correspond to seasons of the year when consumers would most likely wear the merchandise (e.g., Spring, Summer, Pre-Fall, Fall, Holiday, and Resort). These collections generally arrive at retail four to eight weeks before the wearing season begins. Most companies design for between four and six seasons a year. fashion show  An exhibition of fashion merchandise sponsored by a retail store, a designer, or a manufacturer. Apparel is usually shown on live models on a runway or stage, and the show may serve to introduce the clothes for a new season or may be a benefit performance for charity. Recent history has seen a rise in the production of virtual fashion shows without a live audience. These may be produced using avatars rather than live models and may be broadcast on demand. Also called style show.

59

F: fashion stylist to fiber dyeing fashion stylist  Person who selects and coordinates the apparel and accessories for print and digital promotions as well as for social media and fashion shows. fashion system  A construct that drives the creation, marketing, promotion, acquisition, and consumption of products based on novelty and change, in order to realize economic gain. fashion trend  Direction in which styles, colors, fabrics, and designs are tending to change. Political events, films, personalities, dramas, and social and sports events often influence fashion trends. fashion trend forecasting  Processes used to predict trends in styles that consumers will want in future fashion seasons. fashion victim   A person who closely follows fashion behavior and trends and attempts to model the extremes of fashion in their own dress. A fashion victim never quite hits the mark; they may struggle to put looks together, lacking the confidence or personality to pull it off, or adopt a look too late. fashion week   A fashion industry event, named after the host city or commercial sponsor, which offers a venue for designers or brands to launch their latest collections. NYC, London, Paris, and Milan, among other cities, have fashion weeks in succession. fashionista   A person who is an avid follower of fashion. fast fashion  A strategy of constantly changing fashion to keep it fresh; collections are based on the most recent fashion trends. Products are manufactured quickly in an affordable way and marketed to the mainstream ­consumer. Designs are generally knocked off or adapted from the ideas of other brands and sold at very low prices. fastener/fastening   See closure. fatigues   Casual apparel originally worn by military personnel, often made of fabric with a camouflage pattern. faux   (French) False or counterfeit; imitation. Used in English to describe gems, pearls, furs, and leathers that are not real or the authentic material that they resemble. features   Physical characteristics or special components that enhance and support product performance. Federal Trade Commission (FTC)   Regulatory agency that oversees legislation important to the apparel industries, including labeling requirements for apparel under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, the Permanent Care Labeling Act, and legislation covering fur and wool product labeling. The FTC also monitors the legal aspects of business advertising. Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode  (federr-ats′-yohn fran′seys deh koo′-toor duh pret-ah-portay′ dey koo′-toor-ee-yair ay dez kre-at′-tuhr de mode) An umbrella organization consisting of three French 60

trade organizations—the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter, and the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine. It is the governing body of the French fashion industry; it sets industry standards as to quality and use of the term “haute couture.” It also coordinates the dates and locations of the various French fashion weeks. The Federation sponsors the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, a fashion school. fedora   Felt hat with medium-sized brim and high crown, with lengthwise crease from front to back. Originally worn by men but now also styled for women with turned-up back brim.

fedora

feeder stripe  A repeated stripe less than 1¼″ (3.2 cm) wide. felt   Nonwoven fabric made by compressing wool and hair fibers with heat and steam into sheet form. In true felt, no adhesives are used. Some felts are left hard and smooth; others are napped to give a softer hand. When used for hats, the felt is shaped into an object called a hood (see hood), which has a crown and a floppy shapeless brim. fencing jacket   Close-fitting, waist-length jacket, usually padded or quilted, made with high-standing collar and fastened diagonally to right side as the observer views the fencer. Worn for the sport of fencing and sometimes copied for general wear. fencing mask  Protective mask of fine wire screening fitting over the face to prevent injury from foil when fencing. fetishistic clothing  Fashions inspired by styles associated with aberrant sexual practices such as sadomasochism. These include stiletto heels, thigh-high boots, corsets, and garments made of leather, rubber, and PVC plastic. fez   1. Red felt hat shaped like truncated cone with long black silk tassel hanging from center of crown worn by Turkish men until 1925; also worn in Syria, Palestine, and Albania. 2. Basic shape, without tassel, copied for women’s hats in the West. fiber   The smallest unit within the structure of a textile material. fiber density   Mass per unit volume of a fiber. fiber dyeing  Coloring that occurs during the production of the fiber.

F: fiber identification to fit session fiber identification   Verification of fiber content. 15 percent pledge   A call to major retailers to pledge 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. filigree   Ornamental metalwork for jewelry or accessories made of fine gold, silver, or copper wire that is twisted into an intricate lacy openwork pattern.

fisherman’s sweater   Bulky hand-knit sweater made of natural color and water-repellent wool, in characteristic patterns, including wide cable stripes, bobbles, seed stitch, and other fancy stitches.

filament   Long, continuous textile fiber of indefinite length. Silk is the only natural filament fiber; manufactured fibers can be made in filament lengths or cut into short, staple fibers. filler   See sole. finance function   The functional area responsible for all of the accounting activities of a firm, including expenditures for materials, equipment, and technology systems, employee salaries, and the overall business budget. findings   In the garment industry or in sewing, all the smaller items and trimmings that complete a garment (e.g., buttons, hooks, bindings, laces, elastic, stay tape). Also called notions, sundries. fingerless gloves   Gloves without finger coverings.

fisherman’s sweater

fisherman’s vest  Waist-length vest usually made of khaki-colored cotton duck worn over other clothes when fishing. Has many pockets—two larger zip or snap pockets near hem, and small pockets on chest to stow gear when fishing. Sometimes adapted as a fashion silhouette. fishnet hose  Openwork hose in a diamond-shaped pattern. fishtail hem   A garment with a hemline that is longer in the back than in the front. fit   A customer’s perception about whether a garment fulfills their expectations for consistency, proportion, ease of movement, comfort, balance, smoothness, and availability. fit and flare  A silhouette that conforms to the body at the top of the garment and then flares out at the hip.

fingerless gloves

finishing   1. Process used on fibers, yarns, or fabrics to change or improve the performance or appearance of the material. 2. Postproduction process of trimming, pressing, and folding finished goods. finishing specifications   Detailed information for completing the garment’s final appearance, such as pressing, tagging, folding, or hanging. first cost  The wholesale price of merchandise in the country of origin. first hand   The person who interprets a designer’s sketch into the first pattern. They are experts in patternmaking and fine construction, and are assigned the most detailed, precise tasks. first pattern   A pattern used for the first sample, whose dimensions are based on the target measurements based on the sample size. first sample   A sample cut with the first pattern and cut from sample fabric. first-party audits   Factory audits conducted by employees of the factory or company that owns the factory.

fit and flare

fit model  A live model whose body dimensions match the company’s sample size and who is used to assess the fit, styling, and overall look of prototypes. fit obsolescence   Obsolescence created because a fashion product no longer fits. fit session  A meeting at which a sewn garment is put onto a form or a real body and observed by one or more of the product development team to assess conformity with specifications and standards.

61

F: fitted to flash-sale websites fitted   adj. Describing a garment that conforms closely to body lines. fitting   n. Dressmaker’s or tailor’s session with customer for altering garment to fit the figure.

pocket opening. The pocket flap must be lifted to provide access to the pocket. Sometimes flaps are attached to a garment to give the look of an inside pocket even though there is no inside pouch.

fitting ease   The amount of ease in a garment necessary to allow the wearer to move freely. fixed costs  Costs that remain the same regardless of how many units are ordered or how complex they are. flair   See color inconstancy. flame resistant  Fabric treated with a flame retardant. Fabric will burn only when placed in a flame, but self-extinguishes rapidly when the ignition source is removed. See also Flammable Fabrics Act. flamenco dress  Dress with long torso top and skirt made with a series of circular-cut flounces. Inspired by dresses worn by flamenco dancers in Spain. Flammable Fabrics Act  Legislation enacted in 1953 that prohibits the sale of highly flammable fabrics or wearing apparel that does not meet established standards, which are revised periodically. flange dart   A pleat that is formed in the fabric, stitched down to a specified length, and then released at the opposite end to fit the contours of the body or add fullness to an area.

flap pocket with welt

flapper   1. n. Fashionable young woman in her late teens or early twenties who adopted the unfitted styles, short skirts, and bobbed hair of the 1920s. 2. adj. Descriptive of revivals of styles inspired by or derived from clothing of the 1920s. Typical dresses were knee-length, long-waisted, blouson, and chemise types, often lavishly decorated with beads for evening. Coats were without waistlines or long-waisted, and wrap-style, many with large fur collars. Hair was cut in a short bob, and frequently a brow band and long ropes of pearls were worn. Also called twenties style.

flange heel  Heel that flares or angles to make a wider base. flange shoulder  Extension of shoulders over armhole seam. Top sometimes made by using a wide band at edge, sometimes by making a deep pleat in the front of the bodice at the shoulders.

flapper dress 1920s

flared-leg pants   Pants with slight flare at hem. flange

flannel   Fine soft fabric made in a tightly woven twill or plain weave and finished with a light napping. flannel shirt   Shirt of colored or plaid flannel fabric with one or two patch pockets and conventional or convertible neckline. Worn originally by woodsmen and hunters. Later adopted for general casual wear. flap pockets  Inside pocket that includes a flap that is sewn to the top edge of the slash and that falls over the

62

flashdance   adj. Descriptive of various items of dancewear designed by Michael Kaplan for the 1983 movie Flashdance, and contemporary fashions adapted from these designs. Typical items were loose, oversized, shoulder-baring sweatshirts, tank tops, cardigans, dresses, and exercise pants. flash-sale websites   An e-commerce business model in which a website offers a single product for sale for a period of 24 to 36 hours. Potential customers register as members of the deal-a-day websites and receive online offers and invitations by email or social networks.

F: flat collars to fluted hem flat collars   A category of collars that lay flat against the garment with only enough stand to hide the seam where the collar is attached to the garment. flat-felled seam  Seams created by placing the wrong sides of garment pieces together and stitching a seam that appears on the right sides. One edge of the seam is then trimmed to 1/8” and the other edge folded over the cut edge. Both are then pressed flat in the same direction and the folded edge is topstitched. As a result, two rows of stitching appear on the outside creating a very durable seam often used on blue jeans.

flat-felled seam

flat front pants   Pants that are made without pleats or darts in the front. They are usually worn a little lower on the waist and often feature front hip pockets which can provide some additional fit. Flat front pants are best on slimmer figures without belly curves.

flight bag   1. Soft canvas satchel with zippered-top closing and two handles, copied from standard carryall issued by airlines to passengers when air travel was less common. 2. Any handbag used for traveling, larger than a handbag and smaller than a suitcase. Also called travel bag. flight jacket   See bomber jacket. flight suit   One-piece garment of a design based on suits worn by pilots in the armed forces. Generally made with long sleeves, long legs, and zipping up the front to close. Similar to a jumpsuit (see jumpsuit). flip-flops   A sandal fastened to the foot by two straps that come up between the first and second toes and fasten to the side of the sole. Copied from the original Japanese zori, which is a sandal. float   1. A fashion sketch that has been drawn over an underdrawing for proportion but without adding the body itself. 2. Lengthwise or crosswise yarn in a woven fabric that extends over several rows without being ­interlaced. 3. In knitting, a yarn that extends for some distance across the back of the fabric without being interlaced.

flat pattern   A design process in which a base block, or sloper, is used to create a pattern for a new style. flat pleats   See knife pleats. flat seam  A specialized type of seam for athletic wear made on machinery that butts raw edges of fabric ­together and creates a web of stitches to hold the pieces together. flat or flat sketch  Two-dimensional drawings of garments that include all seams and details that represent how the garment looks when spread out on a flat surface, rather than how the garment appears on the body. See technical flat. flats   A women’s shoe with a flat heel or no heel.

flat heel

flax   The fiber from which linen is made. fleece   A fabric with a thick, heavy, fleece-like surface; it may be a pile fabric or simply one with nap, and may be woven or knitted. flexible manufacturing (FM)   See agile manufacturing. flexible payment options  Buy now, pay later plans that give consumers greater flexibility around e-commerce payments by allowing them to split the cost of payments into smaller, fixed installments with no hidden fees or interest.

float

floor-ready merchandise (FRM)   Merchandise received by the retailer with hangtags, labels, and price information affixed so that the goods can be placed on the selling floor immediately. flotation vest  Lightweight, flexible vest with zip front made with shell of tear-resistant nylon filled with polyethylene foam, quilted together in wide vertical panels. Worn for all recreational boating activities as a life-saving device. Also called personal flotation device (PFD). flounce   Piece of material, either circular or straight-cut and gathered. Used on hems of skirts, dresses, or jackets, the bottoms of sleeves, or on collars, singly or in a series. flounce collar   A circular ruffle attached to a neckline as a collar. flow-through   Facilities that move merchandise from receiving to shipping with little or no time in storage. fluted hem   A fitted dress or skirt that flares out at the hem through princess seams or by attaching a circular or gathered flounce.

63

F: fly-front closure to forced labor fly-front closure  Buttonholes, or a zipper, inserted ­under a placket. Used on jackets, coats, and pants or trousers.

of lines, a combination of colors, or a detail. The area of greatest visual importance. Also called point of emphasis. focus group  A carefully guided discussion between a skilled moderator and members of a select target market designed to capture a range of feelings and attitudes about a product or service. folder   Device made of sheet metal that guides strips of fabric or fabric edges, folding them into shapes such as plackets, bindings, and hems. fold-over bag   Small envelope bag that may be open at the top or with zippered closing. Bag is folded over double and carried in the hand or under arm. folk   Patterns, silhouettes, and embellishment techniques that originate in specific regions or countries. football jersey/football shirt  Knit shirt with round neck, long or short sleeves set on dropped shoulders, with large numerals printed on front and back. Copied from shirts worn by football players.

fly front five pocket jean

flyaway jacket   Very short jacket with a full back.

footed pajamas  One- or two-piece sleeping garment with attached slipper-like coverings for the feet with soles often made of nonskid plastic.

flying saucer dress   A dress introduced by Issey Miyake in the spring of 1994. Rectangular pieces of polyester fabric, in an array of colors, are stitched together to create horizontally striped yardage. This yardage is gathered, folded, and heat-set; the pleated fabric is stitched into three tubes, one for the body and two for the sleeves, to create a dress that looks like a flying saucer.

footed pajamas

footie   A very short sock that covers the foot and stops at or below the ankle. footwear   Outermost covering for the foot that serves to protect the foot but frequently is also a decorative element of the costume. Often divided into categories defined by function, heel/sole type and height, closures, and other styling characteristics. quarters tongue facings topline vamp

flying saucer dress

FM   Acronym for flexible manufacturing. FOB   Acronym for freight on board.

fob pocket   See change pocket.

focal point   The first place on the garment to which the eye is drawn. It may be created through a convergence 64

sole

insole

heel

men’s Oxford shoe with stacked heel

forced labor  A type of modern slavery that occurs when workers are compelled to provide work or service through the threat of force, fraud, or coercion.

F: form to friendship ring form   The shape and structure of something as distinguished from its material.

franchise agreement  Legal contract for creating a franchise.

formal attire  Clothes worn by men and women at formal social functions.

free trade  An international business environment in which importers and exporters can buy and sell products and services without restrictions of duty or quota.

formal balance   When each element on one side of the design has a counterpart on the other. for-profit organizations  Commercial entities whose profits are shared among owners. foulard   Patterns with tiny geometric motifs that repeat in a set layout, often used in neckties. foundation   An organization or entity that supports charitable activities by making grants to unrelated organizations, institutions, or individuals that they believe will promote their interests for the greater good. foundations   Women’s undergarments worn to support and shape the figure. four-in-hand tie  Long necktie that goes around the neck with one end looping over the other end twice and then pulled through loop, making a slipknot. Usually made of bias-cut fabric or knit, narrow in the center back and wider at the ends. Worn continuously since the 1890s in varying widths. Also worn by women with tailored suits.

1st step

free trade agreement (FTA)  Trade alliance that results in reciprocal reductions in tariffs among member countries and opening markets for export. free trade zones  Property owned by a host government set aside for foreigners to conduct business with freedom from import duties, relaxation of some local regulations and taxes, relaxed export procedures, and added security. freelance artist/designer  Person who sells original design sketches or adaptations of a design to a manufacturer or a brand on an individual project basis. freight forwarding company  A company that ships goods to the United States from the country that produced the goods. freight on board (FOB)   Final cost of a garment before leaving its country of origin; includes cost of fabric and trim, cutting, assembling, finishing, and production. French cuff   Large band cuff that doubles back on itself and is fastened with a cufflink or buttons.

p 2nd step

French cuff

how to tie a four-in-hand tie: finished tie

3rd step

final fi l step

four-in-hand tie

four-point grading system  A standardized method of inspection that assigns penalty points to the fabric flaws of piece goods on a scale of 1–4 to determine if the roll will be accepted or rejected. See also ten-point grading system.

French dart   A diagonal dart that extends from the bust to the side seam at any point between the waist area and the hip. French heel   High heel that curves inward at back, then flares slightly outward at base.

frame bag   n. Any handbag in which the pouch is attached to a metal top that is used to open and close the bag. franchise   A contracted agreement in which a firm or individual buys the exclusive right to conduct retail business within a specified trading area under a franchiser’s registered or trademark name.

French heel

friendship ring  A simple ring exchanged by good friends and worn for sentimental value.

65

F: fringe to fusing fringe   1. Ornamental trim used since medieval times, consisting of loose strands of thread, yarn, or beads, fastened to a band. 2. Fabric or leather slashed into narrow strands, used for trim.

full skirt

fulled wool   Woolen or worsted fabrics that have been subjected to the finishing process called fulling (see fulling). Contemporary fashion promotions often use the terms “boiled wool” or “felted wool” to refer to these fabrics. gauntlet glove with fringe

FRM   Acronym for floor-ready merchandise. frog   Ornamental fastener using cording or braid through which a soft ball made of cording or a button is pulled. Uses: closing garments, especially military uniforms and some Chinese clothes.

full-fashion construction  Knit garments on which some part of the garment was knit to shape. At a minimum, sweater lengths are linked together so that the ribbing can be attached through linking as opposed to serging. In other sweaters, shaping for the armscye and neckline are also knit to shape. fulling   The process of cleaning, shrinking, and felting cloth through the application of heat, pressure, and moisture. fully let-out  Fur-industry term for a fur coat with pelts cut so that one let-out strip goes from neck to hem of coat.

frog

front-hip pocket  Style of pocket typically used on jeans and pants that features a style line that is cut into the garment front at the hip and faced to form the opening.

fume fading  Fading of acetate fabrics caused by acid gases in the atmosphere. functional design  The way in which a design works or performs physically, as opposed to aesthetic design, which refers to the pleasing appearance of a design. functional ease  The number of inches/centimeters added to a garment over and above the corresponding body measurement when drafting a pattern to allow for movement and comfort. Also called wearing ease. funnel neckline  Neckline coming up high on the throat, cut in one with garment. Made with shoulder seams slanted upward toward neck in the shape of an inverted funnel.

front hip pocket

FTA   Acronym for free trade agreement. FTC   Acronym for federal trade commission. full lining   Finishing of the inside of the garment with a complete lining, so that no seams of the outer fabric are showing. Used mainly for coats, jackets, and sometimes dresses. full package contractor/vendor   See original equipment manufacturing. full skirt   Any skirt patterned with additional fullness beyond the necessary wearing ease. Full skirts may derive their fullness from a circular cut, flare, gores, gathers, or unpressed pleats. 66

funnel neckline

fur stole   Waist-length fur cape first worn in the 20th c., with elongated ends in front, sometimes trimmed with tails of animals. fusible   A type of interlining that has heat-sensitive dots of resin on one side that melt when heat is applied, allowing it to be uniformly bonded to the shell, eliminating the need for sewing in by hand. fusing   The process of bonding fabric layers with an adhesive with the application of heat and pressure.

G: gabardine to gaucho belt garment size specifications   Measurements associated with each of the sizes a garment/product will be made; typically included in the tech pack. garment trade   See apparel industry. garment washing  A finishing process of washing the whole garment to produce a soft and somewhat faded look to the finished garment. garter   A decorative elasticized band worn under a bridal or prom dress. Today brides who choose to honor this tradition wear a garter mid-thigh on their right leg. The groom removes the garter and tosses it to the single bachelors at the wedding; the bachelor who catches the garter is believed to be the next to be married. A similar tradition has been embraced for proms. The wearing and exchange of a prom garter symbolizes that a young man and woman are together as a couple.

gabardine   Durable, closely woven fabric with diagonal ridges created by a warp-faced twill weave and made from wool, rayon, or other fibers or blends.

garter belt   Elasticized band that fits either around the hips or waist, with four or six elastic garters attached to hold up hose. Some are lacy and considered sexy when worn over tiny bikini underpants.

galosh   Waterproof ankle-high boot worn over the shoe, fastened with a snap, buckle, or zipper. gamut   The entire range of colors that can be achieved in a specific medium or material. gangster suit   Wide-shouldered, single- or double-­breasted suit with wide lapels, inspired by fashions worn by gangsters in the 1920s and popularized in the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde. Usually made of black or gray pinstriped flannel. garter belt

garter stitch  In hand knitting, every row is knitted rather than alternating a knit row and a purl row. This produces a texture which is the same on both sides of the knit piece. gatekeepers   People or groups that filter the innovative ideas proposed by designers and street fashion and determine which will be disseminated widely and which will be discarded.

gather   v. To draw up fullness along the threads of several rows of stitching. Stitches can be made by machine, by hand, or through the use of elastic thread. Also called shirring.

styles inspired by Bonnie and Clyde film

Garbo hat   See slouch hat. garment dyed   Apparel produced as white or colorless goods, constructed into a garment, then dyed during the finishing process.

gathered skirt   Skirt made from straight panels of fabric sewn together, shirred (or gathered) at the top, and attached to a waistband or bodice of dress.

gaucho belt   A belt adorned with coins and medallions of metal, often joined with chain. Today the term is also used to refer to belts that feature colorful South American embroidery. Der. Spanish, “cowboy” of South America.

67

G: gaucho pants to gingham gaucho pants   (gow′-cho) n. Wide, calf-length women’s pants, copied from pants worn by Spaniards and adapted by South American cowboys.

Generalized System of Preferences (GSP)  A policy of the World Trade Organization that allows differential duty arrangements between developing and developed member nations for the purpose of supporting the growth of markets for the developing nation. generation X/gen X   The “baby bust” group, born from 1965 to 1980. generation Y/gen Y  Also known as millennials, born from 1981 to 1996. generation Z/gen Z   Those born from 1997 to 2013.

gaucho pants

gauge   (gayj) Knitting measurement of the number of stitches per unit of width and length in a knitted fabric.

gauntlet   (gawnt′-let) 1. Armor of chain mail, or plate, worn on the hand from 15th to 17th c. 2. Above-the-wrist glove with wide flaring cuff. The cuff may be cut in one with the glove or as a separate piece that is sewn to the glove. 3. Wide turned-back cuff that slants away from the arm, flaring wide at top and tapering to wrist.

generational cohort  A group whose members share significant historical and social experiences at a similar stage in life that shape their values and behavior. The study of generational cohorts combines understanding gleaned from both demographic and psychographic data. The years identified for each generation may fluctuate by a year or two depending on the source used. generational marketing  The study of how the values, motivations, and life experiences of a generational cohort shape its purchasing behavior, reach, and market influence. generic name   Non-trademarked names assigned by the Federal Trade Commission to 23 manufactured fibers. geographics   Population studies that focus on where people live.

gauntlet cuff

gazar   A heavily sized woven silk originated by designer Cristóbal Balenciaga along with the textile designer Gustav Zumsteg and the Swiss textile manufacturer Abraham. geisha   A class of female entertainers from Japan trained in the tradition of performing arts. Their appearance is characterized by long, traditional kimonos, traditional hairstyles and oshiroi (white powder) makeup. gendarme jacket  (zhahn′-darm) (French, “armed policeman”) Conventional jacket buttoned and adorned with brass buttons on sleeves, pockets, and down center front. Inspired by jackets worn by French policemen.

geometric metamerism  The phenomenon of two identical colors appearing different when viewed at different angles. geotextile   Manufactured, permeable textiles currently used in reinforcing or stabilizing civil engineering projects. Gibson girl  adj. The personification of the fashionable feminine ideal during the period from 1890 to 1910, as personified by Charles Gibson’s pen-and-ink illustrations. The look was characterized by high-necked collars, tucked and lace-trimmed blouses with leg-of-mutton sleeves, and gathered skirts. Hair was worn in the pompadour style.

gender   Physical and/or culturally and socially constructed characteristics of women and men. gender expression/identity  How an individual conceptualizes and experiences their gender, regardless of whether or not it conforms with the gender culturally associated with their assigned sex at birth. gender-inclusive fashions  Fashions that are worn by individuals of all genders. gender neutral  An expression or product that cannot be taken to refer to one gender only. In fashion, a term used to refer to garments and accessories that can be worn by either gender.

68

Gibson girl blouse 1899

gilet   A sleeveless jacket or vest. gingham   A lightweight cotton cloth woven in a two-­ color check—usually white and one other color. Gingham checks are available in a variety of sizes.

G: girth measurement to gore girth measurement   See circumference measurement. gladiator sandal  A T-bar flat sandal with multiple straps running across the foot to the ankle designed to resemble the footwear of Roman gladiators.

godet   (go-day’) Triangular piece, sometimes rounded at top and flaring at the base, set into a skirt or sleeve to give added fullness. See also gore, gusset.

godet gladiator sandal

glam rock  Music-related fashion from the early and mid-1970s with colorful androgynous outfits, flared pants and jumpsuits, and platform shoes. It was characterized by lots of glitter and shine.

goggles   Protective glasses, usually with impact-resistant lenses in wide frames wrapped around temples, held on by strap around head and worn by construction and other types of workers as eye protection or for sports.

glazing   The process of applying glazing oil to a fabric and pressing the fabric with heated rollers to give it a high gloss. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)  A certification standard that defines requirements to ensure the organic status of textiles, from growing and harvesting to manufacture and labelling. Global Reporting Initiative (GRI)  An independent standards organization that helps businesses, governments, and other organizations understand and communicate their environmental impacts. global sourcing  Term used to describe the process of shopping for and purchasing imported goods. global warming  The gradual increase in the overall temperature of the earth’s atmosphere caused by increased levels of carbon dioxide, chlorofluorocarbons, and other pollutants. globalization   The interdependence of global nations due to free trade and the movement of products, technology, information, and jobs across borders and cultures. glove   A covering for the hand, divided into separate compartments for the thumb and fingers, worn as a decorative accessory, for warmth in cold weather, or as protection for workers. fourchette gusset or quirk

thumb

glove

goggles

go-go boot  Calf-length white boot worn by “go-go” dancers in the 1960s. Also called Courrèges boot after the designer who first made them popular. golden mean   A ratio that is thought to create a pleasing balance between structural elements. The mathematical ratio is 1:1.618. These proportions can be found in nature and have been followed in manmade structures for centuries. The mathematics behind the golden ratio is heavily connected to the Fibonacci sequence. It begins with the numbers 0, 1 and then each successive number in the sequence is the sum of the previous two numbers (0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21… ). To simplify, dividing a space into 2:3, 3:5, or another consecutive pair of numbers in the sequence gets you very close to the proportions of the golden mean. golf skirt   See skort. gore   1. Skirt section, wider at hem than top, providing fullness and shaping to waist without using darts. A fourgore skirt has seams at sides, center front, and center back; a six-gore skirt has side-front and side-back seams as well as side seams.

gored skirt

69

G: gorge line to green gorge line   Where the collar and the lapel are joined in a tailored collar. See tailored collar. goth   adj. Descriptive of a style, originating in a London club called the Batcave in 1981, that was inspired by the gothic literary works of the 19th c. such as Dracula. The term continues to be used to describe a look for men or women characterized by dark, mysterious, and antiquated features including black hair, period-style black clothing, black nail polish, red or black lipstick, and dark eye makeup with heavy dark eyeliner.

graffiti   (graf-fee’-tee) adj. Descriptive of abstract designs used on clothing and accessories that resemble drawings scribbled, scratched, or sprayed illicitly on a wall or other surface in a public place. grain   The orientation of the weft and warp threads. Generally, garments are cut on the lengthwise grain of the fabric, which is typically stronger than the crosswise grain. Cutting a garment on the crosswise grain or the bias may change the garment’s drape and durability. Cutting a garment off grain will adversely impact how the garment hangs on the body, causing twists and pulls. granny boots   Women’s boots laced up the front in imitation of high-topped shoes of the 19th c. granny dress  Ankle-length dress popular in the mid1960s to the 1970s styled with a Victorian-era feeling. They generally had a high waistline and slightly gathered skirt, sometimes with a ruffle at the hem; a high neckline or collar; and long or short sleeves. Frequently made of calico fabric in a small print.

goth style

GOTS   Acronym for global organic textile standard. gradation   A sequence of adjacent units that change in steps from one to the next. grade distribution   The method of distributing the total change in body dimension within each individual pattern piece. grade rules  A list of incremental changes to pattern measurements from one size to the next that are applied to a base pattern within a sizing system to achieve a graded set of production patterns. The increase or decrease between one size and the next on a specific measurement is called “the grade.” graded nest   A visual that shows all sizes graded from the master pattern stacked to show the incremental differences between sizes. A graded nest helps the patternmaker to ensure that their grading process is correct. grading   The process of creating a complete set of production patterns for each size in a range using the ­production pattern pieces made in the sample size for a style.

70

granny dress

granny glasses   Ben Franklin style, wire-frame glasses. graphic designer  A position responsible for creating visual concepts, using computer software or by hand, to communicate ideas that inspire, inform, and captivate consumers. gray/grey/greige goods   Newly manufactured fabrics that have not been whitened or finished. gray market goods   Goods not intended for sale in the country in which they are being sold, often with an invalid warranty. green   adj. Used to describe environmentally friendly processes.

G: greenhouse gases to gypsy earring greenhouse gases  Gases that absorb infrared radiation. They let sunlight pass through the atmosphere, but they prevent the heat that the sunlight brings from leaving the atmosphere. greige goods   (gray) Fabric that has received no preparation, dyeing, or finishing treatment after having been produced by any textile process. GRI   Acronym for global reporting initiative. grinning   Unwanted visible stitching with a seam on the exterior of the garments that is cause by loose tension. gripper closure  Metal fastener in the shape of a large snap, used on some types of jackets and raincoats. Also used on children’s and infants’ clothing, particularly at crotch of pajamas, panties, and pants, to enable them to be put on more easily. grommet   A ring of metal, plastic, or rubber that is inserted into a hole in fabric to “line” or finish the edge of that hole.

grunge   A style of dressing which emerged in the 1980s, influenced by the grunge music subculture. It is characterized by clothing items that look worn, are either too large or too small, and frequently are purchased from thrift shops. GSP   Acronym for generalized system of preferences. G-string   A thin strip of cloth covering the genitals with the back portion made up of a string-like piece of fabric that passes between the buttocks and connects with a very thin waistband. Guernsey/gansey   A warm wool sweater traditionally worn by fishermen who spent their days at sea. Often knit by their wives to keep them warm and safe. gusset   1. Diamond-shaped piece of fabric inserted under the arm of a sleeve or in the crotch seam to permit greater movement. 2. Triangular piece used at sides of handbag, at sides of men’s shirttails, and sides of shoes for wider opening.

grosgrain   (groh′-grayn) Fabric with a large rib that is made by grouping several crosswise yarns together. Made originally in silk, now made mostly with rayon or acetate warp and cotton or rayon filling, or entirely of cotton. Used for ribbons, sashes, trim on dresses, bows, neckwear, hatbands, and millinery trimming. gross margin   Difference between the sales revenue and cost of manufacturing (or at the retail level, the cost of goods sold), used as an indicator of profit. gross sales   All of the money earned from sales in a period of time (month, quarter, year). ground   Plain base or background of a printed or embellished textile fabric. group   A subdivision of a line (see line), linked by a common theme such as color, fabric, or style. growth industries   Sectors of the economy that experience a higher than average growth rate because they are new industries that did not exist in the past or offer new products and services not offered by other competitors in the field. When products are introduced, the emerging technology they utilize commands a relatively high price, placing them out of reach for some consumers.

gusset

gym bag   A handbag shaped like a duffel bag. gypsy blouse  A loose blouse with drawstring neckline and either short puffed or long full sleeves originally worn by gypsies, a nomadic people of Europe, Asia, and North America. Similar to a peasant blouse (see also peasant blouse). gypsy earring  Large hoop earring usually of brass or gold-colored metal, worn in pierced ear, inspired by plain brass circles worn by gypsies. For unpierced ears, hoop is suspended from a small button top that clips to the back of the ear.

71

72

H: haberdashery to hangtag halter neckline   Sleeveless front of garment that is held in place and leaves the back and shoulders bare. A strap around neck, drawstring at neck gathered and tied in a bow, or a band like a dog collar may serve to hold the front.

halter neckline

haberdashery   1. A store that sells men’s apparel and accessories. 2. A store that sells tailor’s and sewing notions. habit   1. A distinctive set of clothing worn by a member of a religious order. 2. Characteristic apparel for a particular function, such as a riding habit.

hacking jacket  Single-breasted, fitted jacket similar to a man’s suit coat, made with slanting flap pockets and center-back or side vents. Used for informal horseback riding and for general casual wear.

half drop   The most frequently used layout for repeating a pattern design. The artwork is repeated along horizontal and vertical lines; however, the horizontal repeat is staggered. The motif repeats perfectly on the vertical line but then drops exactly half of the vertical repeat along the horizontal line.

hand   Characteristics of a fabric that are revealed through the sense of touch (e.g., crispness, softness, smoothness, drape, resilience, fineness, and the like). handbag   Accessory carried in the hand or hung from the shoulder and used to carry small personal items. The word is often shortened to “bag.” handicraft    A particular skill used to make a decorative object by hand. handkerchief   Square of cotton, linen, or silk, sometimes edged with lace or embroidered, carried and used for wiping the face or nose. Men’s are usually larger than women’s. A handkerchief folded into a square and worn in the breast pocket of a tailored suit is known as a pocket square. handkerchief hem   Hem that falls in points, creating an appearance similar to the effect when a handkerchief is held in the center and allowed to fall into soft folds.

half lining   Lining of only part of the garment (e.g., front completely lined but only the shoulders lined in the back). Frequently used in men’s jackets and topcoats.

half sizes   Women’s garments cut for a short-waisted full figure; usually sized 10½ to 24½.

half-slip   Slip that begins at the waist. Introduced in 1940s, becoming a classic substitute for a regular slip. In contemporary terminology. also called petticoat.

halter   Strap encircling the neck, used to support front of a garment, leaving shoulders and back bare. Popular in 1930s and 1940s, revived in early 1970s and periodically since then. Used on blouses, dresses, evening wear, and swimsuits.

handkerchief hem

hang   1. The way in which fabric drapes on the figure after it is sewn. 2. Marking the hem of a skirt with pins or chalk so it can be hemmed straight. hanger appeal   A garment that looks good on the rack and doesn’t require a body to understand its silhouette and fit. hangtag   Removable tag attached to the store garment, usually containing brand logo, style number, size, color, fabric, content, and price.

halter top

73

H: hank/skein to heat transfer printing hank/skein   A quantity of yarn that has not been wound on to a cone. happi coat   (happie) Hip-length jacket made in kimono style, derived from knee-length jackets worn by Japanese laborers. Silhouette sometimes used for casual wear and sleepwear. hard goods/hardlines  Classification of product inventory sold by retailers that includes items that are hard to the touch—tools, furniture, appliances, electronics, jewelry, and sporting goods. The opposite of softlines, which are soft and pliable to the touch, typically made out of fabrics. hard hat   Protective covering for the head. Made of metal or hard plastic in classic pith helmet shape or similar to a baseball batter’s cap. Held away from the head by foam lining to absorb impact. Worn by construction workers and others subject to work hazards. hardware   Trims, such as buttons, buckles, rings, chains, and grommets, made of any rigid material that can be carved, molded, punched, etched, engraved, covered, laminated, painted, or dyed. harem pants   Very full, loose-fitting pants gathered into bands at the ankles, sometimes with a dropped crotch. Originally worn in North Africa, Turkey, and the Middle East.

harem pants

harmony   A term that suggests that all of the design elements work together in a garment to produce a pleasing aesthetic appearance, giving a feeling of unity to the design. haute couture  (oat koo’-toor) 1. A legally protected designation in Paris, administered by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. They define haute couture as high-fashion, made-to-order garments for private clients requiring one or more fittings. Garments must be made in Paris in ateliers that employ at least 15 fulltime staff; haute couture designers must show at least two collections a year of original designs to the public. An original design is not the only one of its kind, but means only that the garment was designed and made in the atelier of the designer. Haute couture designers must adhere to a strict set of standards administered by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Hawaiian shirt   Sport shirt printed with colorful Hawaiian floral or other local designs. Made with a convertible collar and worn outside of trousers.

Hawaiian shirt

head end  Sample of a woven textile sent by a vendor for approval before continuing to the next step of production.

harlequin   (hahr′-leh-kwin) Traditional theatrical costume made of varicolored diamond-shaped patches on tunic and tights, a flaring brimmed black bicorne hat decorated with pompons, and a black mask.

head wrap  A piece of cloth, of any convenient shape, that is wrapped and secured around the head. headband   Strip of leather, cord, or fabric bound around the head horizontally across the forehead or over the top of the head from ear to ear as an ornament or to keep hair in place.

harlequin check   (hahr′-leh-kwin) Pattern made of medium-sized, diamond-shaped colored motifs alternating with white.

healthwear   Apparel that facilitates medical treatment. harlequin

74

Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTS or HTSUS)   A government resource that identifies tariff classifications and posts current rates for goods imported into the United States; it is the responsibility of the US International Trade Commission. Developed to simplify importing by using the same terminology and classifications for all importing countries rather than having different systems for each.

heat transfer printing   See sublimation printing.

H: heat map analytics to hiking boot heat map analytics  A geographical representation of data that uses a system of color-coding to show user behavior. Often used on web pages or social media sites to measure engagement. heat setting   Process that uses heat and pressure to permanently pleat or crease fabrics made of manufactured fibers such as nylon, polyester, and acetate. heel   Part of the shoe that elevates the back of the foot. Heels may be flat, medium, or high. heel lift   See lift. heirloom   Object that is saved and shared across generations (e.g., baptismal gowns, handmade items). helmet   Protective covering for the head worn particularly by armed forces, primarily to prevent injury, as well as for various sports. hem   The lower edge of an item of clothing such as a skirt or blouse, or sleeves, which is turned under and secured, usually by sewing, to finish a garment. hemp   A coarse, strong, lustrous fiber from the stem of the hemp plant. Henley   adj. A term used to describe a knit shirt (or neckline) with a round neckline made with ribbing and front placket opening. Worn by men, women, and children.

business without regulation. They are rife with child labor, forced labor, and other forms of labor abuse. Higg Index  Self-assessment tool designed to help brands, manufacturers, and retailers of all sizes, at every stage in their sustainability journey, to measure their own environmental and social and labor impacts and identify areas for improvement. high culture  Events, activities, directions, and trends derived from the fine and performance arts, as opposed to pop culture. high fashion   Those styles or designs accepted by a limited group of fashion leaders—the elite among consumers—who are first to accept fashion change. high street   A UK term that refers to trend-right clothing available for purchase by the public, that would typically be available in chain stores on the main street of any city. high-low fashion   1. Wearing an expensive luxury item of apparel with an inexpensive fast-fashion basic in a single outfit. 2. A collaboration between a well-known designer or luxury brand and a mass-market retailer. high-rise   adj. Any waistline higher than the natural waistline. high-tech fabric  A fabric that has been constructed, finished, or processed in a way that gives it certain innovative, unusual, or hard-to-achieve qualities that are achieved using new technology. hijab   A veil worn by Muslim women in the presence of nonrelated males; it covers the hair and neck.

Henley shirt

heritage brand  A fashion brand with a long-standing history that is characterized by high quality and classic styling. heroin chic   A term used to characterize a fashion trend and fashion photography of the late 1980s and 1990s in which models appear emaciated, pale, and unkempt, with large circles under their eyes; an appearance likened to that of hard-drug addicts. herringbone   A woven pattern consisting of adjacent vertical rows of slanting lines, any two contiguous lines forming a V or inverted V. Usually made of yarns of two colors in yarn-dyed woolen fabric. The pattern is sometimes created using printing techniques. hidden supply chain  Suppliers who are subcontracted without authorization from the product developer. These suppliers are typically unlicensed and do

hijab

hiking boot  Above-the-ankle boot with padded collar and soft leather lining. Uppers are made of various materials including leather, Gore-Tex®, or manufactured fiber fabric. Laced-up front through riveted D-ring closure with speed lacing at top (see speed lacing). Usually has a cushioned insole and padded quarter and tongue.

75

H: hip boot to horizontal-flow theory hip boot  Rubber fishing boot, thigh-length, with straps at sides to fasten to belt at waist. Also known as waders. hip-hop   A style of music, dance, and clothing associated with rap culture. Fashions include baggy clothes, especially baggy pants worn without a belt to reveal men’s boxer shorts, football or baseball shirts, baseball caps turned backward, high-top running shoes with untied shoelaces, and large-scale gold jewelry. hip-hugger   Low-slung pants, skirt, or belt worn below normal waistline, resting on hip bones. hippie   adj. Describes the style associated with people who were known by this name. Derived from the mid1960s name for or reference to a young person who defied established customs and adopted an unconventional mode of dress (e.g., long uncombed hair, aged blue jeans, miscellaneous tops, fringed jackets, strings of beads, symbolic pendants, pouch bags, bare feet, or sandals). The hippie style of dressing started a trend toward ethnic hippie-style fashions and unusual mixtures of dress.

holographic materials   Of or having the ­quality of holography, which is a method of making three-­ dimensional photographs without a camera, but by the use of splitting a laser beam. holster pocket  Novelty pocket shaped like a gun holster, used on sportswear. hood   1. Preliminary, shaped piece of felt or straw from which a milliner works. Has a high, rounded, nondescript crown and an extra-large floppy brim. 2. An extension of a garment that covers the head and neck with an opening for the face; it is attached at the neckline. hook and eye   Closing that employs a small metal hook on one side and either an embroidered loop or a small metal loop or bar on the other side. Used extensively as a closure on waistbands. hook and loop closure  A closure system most commonly known as Velcro®. It is made up of two tapes; the rough side is filled with very tiny hooks, the smoother side filled with looped fibers. hoop earring  1. Circlet (or oval) of metal, plastic, or wood that swings free from a small button. 2. Incomplete circlet that fastens around the earlobe. May be hinged and clip into place.

hoop earring

hippie style

hoop skirt  A skirt held out with crinoline, a stiffened underskirt, or hoops. May be bell-, cone-, or pyramidshaped. Very fashionable from 1850 to 1870 and worn at intervals since, particularly for eveningwear and bridal gowns.

hipster brief  Men’s or women’s underwear where the waistband runs straight across the hipline. his and hers   adj. Descriptive of garments that look alike but that are specifically made one for a man, the other for a woman; distinct from “unisex look,” where garments are actually interchangeable. historic continuity   The concept that fashion is a steady evolution of styles, including the continual recurring of symbolism and elements of decoration. hobble skirt  Woman’s skirt with a silhouette that is rounded over hips and then tapers to the ankle, making the skirt so narrow that walking is impeded. hobo   A soft slouch bag with a top that droops in the middle to form a half-moon shape.

76

hoops

horizontal-flow theory  A theory of fashion adoption that describes fashions which move horizontally between groups on similar social levels rather than vertically from one level to another. Also called

H: horizontal integration to hype mass-market theory, simultaneous adoption theory, trickle-across theory.

housecoat   Informal robe worn at home for lounging or over sleepwear.

horizontal integration  A business strategy where a company owns and manages several brands in the same product category in an attempt to control a bigger share of the market and to take advantage of cost savings that accrue from the economies of scale in managing similar businesses.

HTS   Acronym for harmonized tariff schedule of the united states.

horn-rimmed glasses   Eyeglasses with heavy frames of dark horn or mottled brown plastic imitating horn. horseshoe neckline  Scooped neckline made low in front in the shape of a horseshoe. hosiery   Knitted item of wearing apparel covering the foot and/or leg. Includes nylons, stockings, pantyhose, tights, and socks. hot pants   Very brief and tight-fitting shorts for women and girls.

HTSUS   Acronym for harmonized tariff schedule of the united states. hue   The property of light by which the color of an object is classified as one of the hue families of the light spectrum. There is a natural order of hues that follows the sequence of hues seen in a rainbow. That order goes from red to orange to yellow, then green, blue, and purple. Rainbows don’t emit purple light, but purple completes the human perception of the hue families. human resource manager  A position that oversees recruiting, interviewing, and hiring staff, works with executives on strategic planning, and serves as a link between management and employees. human rights   Rights afforded all individuals, including civil and political rights; economic, social, and cultural rights; and collective rights. Human Rights Watch  A nongovernmental organization that defends and protects human rights.

hot pants

houndstooth   Irregular colored check that has the appearance of a square with points at two diagonal corners. Woven houndstooth checks are yarn-dyed in a twill weave; the pattern can also be achieved through printing. hourglass   adj. Descriptive of a women’s body shape or garment silhouette that has a full bust, pinched-in waist, and full, curving hips, a shape not unlike that of an hourglass.

100 percent inspection  The process of evaluating all parts, components, or products rather than a sample. hydrophilic   Water-loving; having an affinity for water. hydrophobic   Water-repelling; having an aversion to water. hype   Intense promotion and exposure of a product, idea, or innovation in order to heighten awareness and excitement.

hourglass

77

78

I: ice cube heel to industrial textile waste resulting garments match in the store, and the second simulating daylight so that an acceptable match is perceived once the garments leave the store. Evaluating lab dips under two light sources reduces problems of metamerism. illustration   The communication of fashion ideas in a visual form, usually on an elongated fashion body. image   The general appearance that a person, organization, or product tries to project to the public and/or the perception the public has of that person, organization, or product. implied warranty  An unwritten expectation that a product will do what it is designed to do, e.g., a coat will provide warmth. import   1. n. Merchandise bought offshore and brought into another country to sell. 2. v. The act of importing. ice cube heel   Low, square-cut heel of clear Lucite®, introduced in 1970. Icelandic sweater  True Icelandic sweaters are handknit in traditional designs made in natural-colored wool of browns, blacks, whites, and grays. Fleece is from the rare heath sheep. Rich in lanolin, the wool is said to be almost entirely water-repellent. Designs consist of bands around the neck in yoke fashion copied from beaded collars worn by Icelandic Eskimos. Knock-offs of this style may be described using the same name. Also called Reykjavik sweater. ID bracelet   A bracelet of large links attached to an oblong metal plaque engraved with the owner’s name or initials. idea chain   A set of linked events that move a phenomenon from a subculture to the mainstream; this technique is often used in trend forecasting. ideals of beauty   A perception of what is most beautiful during a certain period of time, which becomes a societal norm. These ideals influence designers and have implications for what is seen as a desirable body shape. identity creation   The development of a personal sense of self in comparison to others, using dress as a medium. ikat   A dyeing technique used to pattern textiles where pre-dyed warp or weft threads are used to create a pattern when the fabric is woven. Also called warp print, chiné.

impulse buying   The spontaneous consumer purchasing of goods with little or no planning. IMU   Acronym for initial markup. inclusion   The degree to which diverse individuals are able to participate fully in the decision-making processes within an organization or group. inclusive design   The  design  of products and/or services that are accessible to, and usable by, as many people as possible, without the need for special adaptation or specialized design. Also called universal design. income statement   See profit and loss statement. indigo   Blue dye made from the stems and leaves of Indigofera tinctoria and Indigofera anil. It was the original dye used on blue denim; currently, synthetic dyes are used. indirect competitors  Companies that do not sell the same or similar products but offer alternatives that may redirect a customer away from a purchasing situation. indirect labor  A cost incurred in the performance of support services by salaried personnel that is hard to assign to the cost of producing single products (e.g., overhead, utilities).

illuminant metamerism   The perceived change in color between a pair of samples that match under one light source but do not match under another.

industrial designer   Develops the concepts and designs for manufactured products including footwear, accessories, and apparel components from an engineering perspective. Industrial designers consider the function, aesthetics, sustainability, and production costs of products when developing new products.

illuminants   The various light sources (incandescent, sunlight, fluorescent) that must be considered in color matching. Generally at least two light sources are used, one simulating store light so that the product developer can be sure that the components and

industrial textile waste  Textile waste generated from industrial applications such as conveyor belts, filters, geotextiles, wiping rags, etc. Some analysts use the term “industrial waste” to describe pre-consumer waste (see pre-consumer textile waste).

79

I: infants’ sizes to intelligent textiles infants’ sizes  A size range designed to meet the needs of children under 24 months. Designed with snaps and other features to meet the unique needs of children in diapers with limited mobility and independence. infinity scarf   A long scarf in which the ends have been sewn together so that it can be looped one or more times around the neck. inflation   ​A substantial and continuing rise in the general price level. influencer   Individual who has the credibility and social visibility to influence the opinions, attitudes, and/or purchasing of consumers. infomercial   Extended commercial in which a sponsor presents information about its product in a program format. information technology (IT) function   The functional area that manages the company’s technology infrastructure and assets in accordance with the firm’s needs and priorities. information technology manager  A position that oversees information technology strategies and needs for a fashion brand company by researching and implementing strategic technological solutions, including those related to design, production, marketing, supply chain management, and/or omnichannel retailing. infrastructure   Basic facilities and systems that allow a city, country, or region to function in today’s economy, including roads, power sources, bridges, water and sewer systems, communications systems, airports, and ports. in-house   Utilizing an organization’s own staff and resources rather than contracting that task out to another firm. initial cost estimate  Approximation of the cost of a new style. Developed from the cost of materials, findings, labor, shipping, and any import duty required. initial markup (IMU)   The amount of money, expressed as a percentage of initial cost, that a distribution channel adds to the price of goods. The higher the percentage, the more profitable the item is. initial public offering (IPO)  Offering shares of a private corporation to the public in a new stock issuance. innovation   The creation of a new product or the improvement of an existing product with the aim of adding value and creating competitive advantage. in-plant audits  Evaluation of a factory to monitor the management, efficiency, quality control, and working conditions of a manufacturing plant. inseam   The seam in pants and trousers from the crotch to the hem. Since the waist location on pants, particularly for women, changes with fashion, the inseam

80

measurement provides a more accurate length guide for the development of patterns. in-seam pockets  Pockets designed into an existing seam of the garment so that the pouch of the pocket is entirely covered by the garment. They are most frequently found in vertical garment side seams or princess seams, but they may also be found in horizontal yoke or waist seams. These pockets provide function without disrupting the lines of the garment. insertion   Trimming or fabric made in straight bands and set between pieces of fabric in a garment. inside pockets  A classification of pockets where the pocket pouch is on the inside of the garment; these pockets may or may not have a decorative element on the outside of the garment. Includes bound, welt, flap, and inseam pockets. insole   The inside of a shoe or boot on which the sole of the foot rests. inspiration   The source of creative ideas that provide new direction. instant feedback loop  A process in which an organization asks for customer and employee feedback on communication and service outputs; that feedback is used to create a better product, service, or workplace environment. instep   The inside arch area of the shoe. in-store shop  Area within a department store that is merchandised according to fashion brand company’s specifications and carries only the merchandise of the fashion brand. insulated   adj. Describes a garment or accessory constructed to protect against moisture, heat, or cold. Materials/finishes used to insulate include down, foam, fiberfill, wool, sheepskin, and water-repellent finishes. intarsia   (in-tar’-sea-ah) A knitting technique that incorporates one or more contrasting colored yarns to create design motifs or patterns in a solid block of knit fabric, e.g., argyle or Fair Isle patterns. integrated selling   Retailers telling thematic stories by integrating product and experiences that change frequently in order to draw the customer back on a regular basis. intellectual property  Creations of human intelligence that have commercial value for which exclusive rights are recognized by law. Intellectual property includes inventions, literary and artistic works, designs, symbols, names, and images that are protected by copyright, trademark, and patent law. intelligent textiles  Textiles that use phase change materials, shape memory materials, chromic materials, conductive materials and/or electronic sensors to

I: intensity to Irish knit enhance the material’s protection, safety, fashion, and convenience properties. intensity   See chroma. intensive distribution   Strategy whereby products are made available to as many consumers as possible through a variety of retail venues. interactive kiosk  Computerized unit in retail stores that allows customers to ascertain whether the company has a particular size or item in stock. If the kiosk is programmed for placing orders, the customer can place an order and have the product delivered to the store or to their home. interactive technologies  Technologies that are developed for real-time applications that take user input and environmental sensing and cumulatively store and process that information to offer desired solutions, selections, or outcomes. interfacing   Fabric sewn or fused between two layers of fabric to strengthen areas of stress, give body, and/or retain the shape of garment parts. Called interlining in manufacturing. interlacing   A stitch formed by two or more sewing threads passing through fabric, forming a loop that intertwines around a different loop of thread.

intrapreneur   A manager within a company who promotes innovative product development and marketing. An intrapreneur is somewhat protected from the risk of their decisions because they work for a large company. intrinsic quality cues  The physical features, performance characteristics, and product benefits consumers use to make determinations about quality. introductory allowance   A special discount or marketing credit offered on newly introduced products to induce a distribution channel or consumer to take the risk of trying something new. inventory   A current asset held on a company’s balance sheet. inventory productivity   Identifying stock-keeping units (SKUs) with high sell-through and higher margins over SKUs with low sell-through that have to be marked down. inverted heel   A chunky heel that extends horizontally from the ball of the foot with its length lying on the ground; the back of the shoe, which supports the heel of the foot, seemingly floats in midair.

interlining   A general industry term that includes knit, woven, and nonwoven products that are held behind the shell fabric by fusing or sewing in. The term “interfacing” is more commonly used for home sewing products to refer to material performing the same function. interlooping   The stitch formation created with two or more threads passing through one or more loops formed by different threads. intermediate color  A color made by mixing varying amounts of a primary color with an adjacent secondary color. intermodal transportation  Using different modes of transportation for different needs within the supply chain. internal audit  A process used to identify problems within a company and correct them before they are cited by an external audit by a body outside of the organization. internal selling  Process whereby a company’s design team presents seasonal lines to in-house merchandisers who will select specific pieces of the line for production. International Organization for Standards (ISO)  An independent organization comprising representatives from standard-making bodies from many nations. Standards are written by consensus and adhered to voluntarily. intimate apparel   See lingerie.

inverted heel

inverted pleat   Pleat formed by bringing two folds to a center line and pressing them. Reverse side of several inverted pleats will form box pleats. investment dressing  Purchasing high-quality classically styled fashions with the intent to wear the fashions over time. invisible zipper  A type of zipper that is attached to the seam allowances of a garment in a way that makes the closure invisible when the zipper is closed and the garment is worn. The zipper tape is inserted before the seam is closed. involuntary prison labor  The use of prison labor in violation of international labor standards. It includes situations where prisoners are required to work for the benefit of a private company or an individual. IPO   Acronym for initial public offering. Irish knit  Hand-knit in traditional patterns usually including a variety of cables, popcorn, and other unusual stitches. Knit on large needles with natural

81

I: irregular stitching to Ivy League wool yarns (yarns that haven’t had the natural oil removed). See also fisherman knit. irregular stitching   Garment stitching that has not been sewn straight. ISO   Acronym for international organization for standards. item line  An apparel line that is ­designed to be sold as individual pieces, often in a variety of colors, as opposed to lines designed to be sold as coordinates. item-driven   A shopping environment where customers tend to buy more single garments than coordinated ensembles. Ivy League   adj. Descriptive of styles based on those first worn in the 1940s and 1950s by college men at Eastern universities. The style consisted of a slim-cut suit jacket with natural shoulders, narrow lapels, and skinny sleeves worn with slim-cut pants.

82

Ivy League style

J: jabot to jockey jeggings   Very tight denim leggings similar in appearance to blue jeans. The name derives from a combination of the words “jeans” and “leggings.”

jabot   1. Ruffle made in a cascade, attached to front of dress, shirt, or blouse. 2. Stand collar with hanging ruffle attached to front of collar.

jeggings

jellies   Molded footwear of soft plastic or rubber made in many styles (e.g., wedgies, multi-strapped sandals, flatheeled thongs, high-heeled pumps, and booties). jersey   A classification of knitted fabrics that are made in a plain stitch without a distinct rib. jewel neckline   A high, round neckline designed to be a simple background for jewelry.

jabot

jacket   An item of apparel for the upper body, with sleeves and an opening in the front; worn by men, women, or children. Typically designed to be worn over other clothing, either indoors or outdoors. May be made with double-breasted or single-breasted closings; most end at the waist or hips, but they can be longer. jacquard   A fabric of intricate weave made on a jacquard loom. The pattern is constructed into the fabric rather than printed on it. Similar fabrics can be knit, with the pattern design knit into the fabric. Jamaica shorts  Shorts ending at mid-thigh, shorter than Bermudas. Der. Named for shorts worn in resort areas on island of Jamaica. jammers   Swimsuits resembling biking shorts that are made of nylon and spandex and are often worn for racing by athletes for competitions. These suits are designed to reduce water resistance, thereby increasing swimming speeds. jeans jacket   See denim jacket.

jewel neckline

JIT   Acronym for just-in-time. job lot   Odds and ends of remaining styles of which the manufacturer wants to dispose. Often made up of pieces that don’t represent the full range of sizes, colors, and/ or styles and if purchased as a group, can be bought for a considerable discount. jobber   1. An agent in the apparel industry that sells closeouts (see closeout) and job lots or carries inventories of apparel immediately available to retailers. 2. Middlemen who buy textiles and other materials in bulk and sell in smaller quantities at higher prices. jockey   adj. 1. Describes apparel derived from or inspired by the clothing worn by professional jockeys in horse racing. 2. Jockey(insert registered symbol) shorts A

83

J: jockey pants to just-in-time (JIT) trademarked brand that has become synonymous with knitted men’s briefs.

Juliet dress  Dress in medieval style with high waistline and puffed-topped sleeves that are fitted at the lower arm.

jockey pants   Below-the-knee breeches with drop front and jodhpur-type legs worn tucked into boots by jockeys in horse races.

Juliet sleeve   Long sleeve with short, puffed top, fitted on lower arm.

jodhpur boot  (jod′-poor) Ankle-high boot fastened with one buckle on the side, worn for horseback riding and for general wear.

jumper   1. A sleeveless dress-like garment, generally for women or children, worn over a sleeved blouse, sweater, or shirt. 2. (British usage) Pullover sweater.

jodhpurs   (jod′-poors) Riding pants, with drop front or zipper closing, that flare at thighs and have narrow straight-cut legs below knee with cuffs at ankles. Similar to men’s breeches worn in India, and popular for men and women horseback riders since 1920s. Der. Jodhpur, a city in India. Also called riding breeches. jogging suit  Loose clothing worn for running or jogging. Often made of sweatshirt fleece or velour.

bib jumper

jumpsuit   A garment that combines pants and a top in a single garment worn as a fashion item, protective garment, or uniform.

jogging suit

johnny collar   A small pointed partial roll collar that fits close to the neck; the front of the neckline forms a V or has a slit.

jumpsuit

johnny collar

joint venture  Business situations whereby one company partners with another company, each contributing investments and expertise to create a new business entity; often used in expanding operations into new areas. Juliet cap  Skullcap (see skullcap) of rich fabric worn for evening or with wedding veils. May also be made entirely of pearls, jewels, or chain.

84

junior sizes   A size category cut to fit a young body with fewer curves, a smaller bust, and less definition between the waist and hips, 5′4″ to 5′5″ (162.5–165 cm) tall. Size nomenclature uses odd numbers, typically 1 to 13. Due to its younger target market, styling tends to focus on trendy, casual clothes suitable for school, casual socializing, clubbing, and entry-level career wear. just-in-time (JIT)   Manufacturing system designed to lessen costly inventories of textiles and apparel. Electronic communications allow suppliers to produce and supply materials to manufacturers “just in time” for production.

K: kaftan to keyhole buttonhole Kasuri   Handwoven Japanese textile made by tie-dyeing yarns in a method similar to ikat (see ikat). Traditionally made of cotton with irregularly shaped white dots on a dark blue background. A technique often used by craftspersons for wearable art. Kelly bag   Handbag favored by Princess Grace of Monaco (actress Grace Kelly) in the 1950s. After Grace Kelly was seen frequently carrying an alligator tote made by the design house of Hermès, the company began to call this bag the Kelly bag. It has since become a classic style.

kaftan   See caftan kangaroo pocket   1. Extra-large pocket placed on center front of garment (e.g., a sweatshirt). 2. Any extralarge pocket.

Kelly bag

kente cloth   Fabric with woven or printed designs characterized by narrow, brightly colored bands with randomly placed geometric patterns. These fabrics are derived from traditional silk fabrics and their designs made by the Asante people of Ghana.

kangaroo pocket

karate suit  Two-piece suit made of white cotton or cotton and polyester blend that is worn for practicing the martial art of karate. The garment consists of a pair of drawstring pants and a kimono-style wrap top that ties shut with a belt. A range of belt colors signifies the level of karate practice. White signifies beginners and black signifies the most advanced practitioners. The karate uniform is called a “gi” in Japan.

kente cloth

kerchief   In current usage, a large triangle of cloth, or square folded in triangular fashion, worn as a head covering, around the neck, or as a face mask for protective or decorative purposes. key item   A basic article of clothing that may be manufactured inexpensively for different seasons and generates a high volume of sales, season after season. key performance indicator (KPI)  Different criteria set forth by a business as a means for measuring their success. Examples include sales data, consumer market information, profit margins, and sell-through. key pocket   See change pocket. key resource list   See vendor matrix.

karate suit

keyhole buttonhole  Worked buttonhole with a bar tack at one end and an area of much enlarged fan-shaped stitches at the other so as to allow a place for the button shank to rest.

85

K: keyhole neckline to kips keyhole neckline  High, round neckline made with wedge-shaped or keyhole piece cut out at center front.

around to other side or front. Hanging end may be fringed and fastened with a large decorative safety pin. Originally worn by Scots Highlander men in various tartans. kimono   (keh-mo′-no) 1. A traditional costume of Japan that is a loose, straight-cut cotton or silk robe made in various lengths and sashed at waist with a belt called an obi. Loose, straight sleeves are either cut on or set-in at right angles. 2. Type of robe cut like the Japanese kimono with kimono sleeves.

keyhole neckline

keystone markup  Selling something at double its wholesale price. If the wholesale cost of the product is $50, then the consumer price would be set at $100 with a keystone markup. This is a 100% percent initial markup (see initial markup). kick pleats   One or more short inverted pleats at the bottom of a garment to allow for freedom of movement.

kimono

kick pleat

kimono sleeve   Wide sleeve with a deep armhole, cut in one piece with front and back of the garment and seamed down outer- and underarm like a Japanese kimono.

kid glove  Glove made of genuine kidskin and also of sheepskin. Originally all were kid, but as the leather became more scarce, other leathers were used. kiddie couture  The production of expensive clothing for children by well-known designers. kidney belt  Wide elastic belt, worn around the lower torso, to prevent injury to internal organs from strain or stress. May be worn by weight lifters, motorcyclists, manual laborers, and medical patients. kilt   Scottish skirt made in wraparound style. Center front is plain with knife pleats starting at side front and wrapping

kimono sleeve

kiosk   1. A small structure in a public area used to distribute merchandise or disperse information. 2. A popular temporary format to test product in a retail setting before committing to a more traditional space. kipper   Necktie 4″–5″ (10–12.5 cm) wide with ends like a bow tie, usually of striped or patterned fabric. Introduced from England in late 1960s. kips   Animal skins weighing from 15 to 25 pounds (6,804– 11,340 g) when shipped to a tannery.

kilt

86

K: kitsch to KPI kitsch   Styles considered to be overly sentimental or pretentious. Also used as an adjective to describe such styles. kitten heel   A short heel, 1¼″ to 2″ high (3.2–5 cm), with a curve that sets the heel in from the shoe and quickly tapers to a thin base.

kitten heel

knapsack   A carryall made in heavy fabric that has shoulder straps and was worn by soldiers and hikers to carry necessary gear. Now more likely to be called a backpack and made in a wide variety of materials for many purposes. knee sock   A foot covering that covers the foot and leg up to just below the knee. knee-high boot   Boot that ends just below knee and fits tightly around the leg and ankle. knickers   1. Loose-fitting trousers gathered at the knee or calf. 2. In Britain, underpants for women and girls.

knit-down   Sample of a knitted textile sent by a vendor for approval before continuing to the next step of production. knit/knitting   Process of making a fabric or an item of ­apparel by the interlacing of loops either by machine or by hand. A crosswise row of loops is called a course, while a vertical row is called wale. A great variety of stitches and yarns may be used to give textured effects and surface interest. The two major divisions of knitted goods are weft knits, which interlock loops horizontally, and warp knits, which interlock loops vertically. Among the better-known examples of weft knits that can be made by hand are double knits, interlock knits, jersey, knitted fleece, terry, rib knits, and velour. Widely available warp knits are known by the name of tricot, raschel, Milanese, and simplex. Complex patterns can be achieved by the use of special knitting machines. knitted textiles  Made on knitting machines by interlooping one or more continuous yarns. Knits vary by the direction in which the loops are formed. knockoffs   Garments that have been adapted or modified from products designed by other firms. They may be made from pictures of products or from copying an actual product that has been purchased off the rack. kolhapuri/kolhapure/kolhapur sandal   (ko′-lap-poor′) Leather thong-type sandal imported from India, made of hand-tooled water buffalo hide. When sandals are first worn in the shower, the leather becomes permanently shaped to the sole of the foot. KPI   Acronym for key performance indicator.

knickers or knickerbockers

knife pleats  Pressed-in pleats, usually placed ½″–1″ (1.3–2.5 cm) apart. All pleats go in the same direction. Also called flat pleats, side pleats.

knife pleats

87

88

L: lab dips to lanyard lace insertion  Narrow lace finished with straight edges that is set into a piece of fabric along both edges; used on blouses, dresses, lingerie, and infants’ dresses. lace pantyhose  Pantyhose made of patterned stretch lace in openwork styles. lace-up closure   A shoe or garment that is closed by a cord, often with reinforced tips of metal or plastic, that threads through eyelets or wraps around hooks, usually in a crisscross pattern.

lace insertion

lab dips  Samples of a specified fabric dyed to match a color standard. These samples are evaluated for the best match before production yardage can be dyed or printed. label   Information that is either attached to a garment or printed on the garment that conveys information such as the manufacturer, size, care instructions, and country of origin. Some of this information may be required by law to be affixed to the garment. The newest form of labeling apparel is printing the information directly onto the garment via heat transfer, eliminating the need for a sewn-in label. labor practices  Practices and policies that impact employee hiring and promotion, minimum wage, and other factors defined by laws and regulations in host countries. laboratory coat/lab coat  Single-breasted coat, usually with turned-down collar and revers (see revers), made of white cotton or manufactured fiber. Worn to protect street clothes while working in chemical or medical laboratory.

lace-up closure

ladder   A knit pattern where stitches are dropped and left to unravel; this can be achieved accidentally or by design. By design, it gives a deconstructed look. landed duty paid (LDP)  The final cost of bringing a garment into the country, including the freight on board (FOB) cost, duty, freight, commissions, insurance, etc. lantern sleeve  Sleeve, plain at top and wrist, that balloons out halfway between the wrist and the elbow. Cut in two pieces with a seam going around the sleeve at the fullest part.

Labour Behind the Label  A UK-based not-for-profit which campaigns for workers’ rights in the clothing industry. lace   Decorative openwork fabric made by hand or machine, often with a repeated motif and a border with a decorative scallop.

picots

ground

bobbin lace

needlepoint lace

lantern sleeve

lanyard   Cord suspended around neck or from belt to hold an accessory such as a whistle, nametag, or pocket knife.

89

L: lapel to leased department lapel   Turned-back front section of blouse, jacket, coat, or shirt where it joins the collar. Each side folds back to form revers or lapels that are cut in various shapes. Names of the types are based on the shape of the point where the collar and lapel meet and include cloverleaf (both collar and lapel are rounded where they meet), fish mouth (with lapel cut slanted and collar end rounded), L-shaped (with lapel cut straight across a narrow rounded collar), notched (with lapel and collar cut slanted thereby creating a notch), and peaked (with V-shaped ending at lapel and collar fitting into it).

cloverleaf lapel

fishmouth lapel

notched lapel

L-shaped lapel

peaked lapel

lapel pin   A pin for men or women, designed to be worn on the lapel of a suit. lapped seam/lap seam (LS)   Simple seam used on interfacing and also in shoe and glove construction. One layer of material is placed on top of another and topstitched. Excess material is trimmed away. lapped zipper   A zipper application that has one visible line of stitching, usually on the left side of the seam, that creates a placket-like finish that covers the zipper tab and teeth.

laser cutting   A precise method of cutting a design from a given material using a CAD file to guide it, either by melting, burning, or vaporizing the material. last   Carved wooden or molded plastic form on which a shoe is made. There is a right and left form for each pair in each size. See also combination last.

Latinx   A gender-neutral term that refers to people of Latin American cultural or ethnic identity. The x replaces the “o” or “a” traditionally used in to identify gender in Spanish grammar. lay   A term used to refer to the number of layers of fabric spread out on the cutting table for bulk cutting in apparel manufacturing.

lay figure  A well-proportioned pose that can be slid under a page and used as a template to help control proportions and the location of garment details. See croquis. also called underdrawing. layaway   Purchase of apparel through scheduled payment amounts on merchandise that is held by the store. When all the payments have been made, the customer takes ownership of the goods. With increases in internet shopping, some stores and credit card services now allow layaway purchases to be made online. layered/layered look   A style of dressing where several garments are worn one on top of the other, all of different lengths.

layette   Garments and accessories collected by prospective mother for a new baby.

layout   In print design, the placement of one motif relative to another, taking into consideration direction, repeat, coverage, and arrangement of adjacent motifs. layup   Total number of plies in a fabric spread. LBD   Acronym for little black dress.

LCA   Acronym for life cycle assessment. LDP   Acronym for landed duty paid.

le smoking  A tuxedo jacket for women introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966. lead time   The amount of production time required after all order details have been confirmed for a garment to be produced and shipped. The goal is to continually shorten lead time in order to be more responsive to consumer preferences.

lean inventories  Eliminating waste throughout the supply chain, and producing to demand rather than producing excess inventory and storing it.

lapped zipper

lariat   A long strand of beads or metal chain, sometimes ending in tassels, that is not fastened by a clasp but rather looped around the neck and tied in a knot or fastened with a slide allowing the two ends to hang free. 90

lean manufacturing  A manufacturing approach designed to achieve the shortest possible cycle time by producing small quantities of merchandise, close to the time needed, and eliminating process waste.

leased department  Operations within one company conducted within the establishment of another company so that it may provide special goods or services for its customers. Department stores and mass merchants sometimes provide leased space for jewelry or fur sales

L: leather to leotard or service providers that offer alterations, jewelry repair, or shoe repair.

leather   Skin or hide of an animal with the hair removed and the grain revealed by process of tanning (see tanning). Sometimes split into several layers with top layer called the grain, others called splits. Often labeled “genuine leather” to distinguish it from faux or synthetic leather. leathering   Fur industry term for using narrow strips of leather between strips of fur in order to make the fur less bulky and give it a more graceful hang.

lei   Hawaiian garland of flowers, frequently orchids, worn around the neck. Often presented to visitors on arrival in Hawaii or to individuals in celebration of important events such as birthdays, anniversaries, and the like. leisure suit   Man’s casual suit styled in knit or woven fabric with jacket similar to a shirt.

lederhosen   (laid-err-hose′-en) Leather shorts usually made with bib top, originally a Tyrolean style, adopted for children and young people in the United States in late 1960s. leggings   Ankle-length, skintight pants made from thin Lycra™ spandex knit fabrics. Originally worn by dancers and entertainers in brilliant colors or in regular knits with leotards in place of tights for exercising. Now adopted by women for general wear in place of pants. leg-of-mutton sleeve/leg-o’-mutton sleeve  Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole and tapered to wrist, where it looks like a regular sleeve. leisure suit c. 1970s

length   Point at which the lower edge of an item of apparel ends (e.g., the hem of a coat, jacket, skirt, or dress). Lennon specs   Glasses with circular metal-rimmed lenses and thin metal temples, adapted from those worn by John Lennon.

leg-of-mutton sleeve

leg warmer  Knitted covering for legs, extending from the ankle to the knee or above. Originally worn by ballet and toe dancers when exercising, now a fashion item.

leg warmer

leotard   (lee′-ah-tard′) A formfitting one-piece knitted garment with high or low neck, long or short sleeves, and ending in brief panties, which is worn alone or over ankle-length tights as practice garment for dancers, acrobats, and for exercising.

leotard

91

L: let out to line let out   (furs) A cutting and resewing operation to make short skins into longer-length skins adequate for garment purposes.

licensing agreement  A legal agreement that grants a business partner exclusive rights to produce or sell products under a proprietary brand name.

letter code sizing   Garment size designations reported by one or more letters such as XS or M.

life cycle   An industry term referring to the end-to-end process of procurement, production, and disposal of a product.

letter sweater   A pullover or cardigan sweater in school or college colors on which a cloth or embroidered initial letter is sewn. May have stripes of secondary-school color on upper sleeves. Formerly given to varsity sports team members in high schools and colleges, now copied for general sportswear.

life cycle assessment (LCA)   A scientific methodology that analyzes and measures the environmental impact of a product throughout its life cycle. life mask  Mask similar to a surgical mask with carbon filter. Worn on the street as a protection against air pollution and smog. life-stage marketing  Targeting of a specific demographic based on age or time of life of consumer to make products more relatable.  lifestyle   The habits, attitudes, values, and tastes in combination with economic resources that characterize an individual’s way of life.

letter sweater

letting-in   Fur-industry term for process of intricate cutting and resewing of a fur skin to make it shorter and broader. letting-out   Fur-industry term for process of cutting a pelt into thin diagonal strips and then stitching them back together to create a longer, narrower strip that runs the full length of the coat. Also called dropping. lettuce edging   Narrow-hemmed finish for edges of garments that creates the appearance of a curly lettuce leaf. Levi’s 501®   A lot or style number given to certain Levi Strauss jeans in 1890 by the manufacturer. The original 501 jean has been modified over the years and adapted for women, and represents Levi’s classic signature jean style. Liberty® print  Trademark of Liberty, London, for wide range of printed fabrics. The best known are small, multicolored floral designs. licensed brand   Brand name resulting from a licensing agreement. licensee   A vendor who provides all services to create and distribute a product, including design, development, manufacturing, marketing, and sales. licensing   The legal granting of permission to use intellectual property rights, such as trademarks, patents, logos, or technology by the owner (licensor) to a product developer (licensee), in return for payment of royalties to the licensor, who continues to own the rights to the original intellectual property. 92

lifestyle brand   A term used to describe brands that are associated with a particular target customer’s activities and way of life; they go beyond the product category that they originally launched and expand to include additional product categories that correspond to their customer’s lifestyle. lifestyle data   The social and psychological factors that motivate consumers to buy, such as life stage, reference groups/peers, social class, personality, attitudes and values, generational cohort, and cultural preferences based on ethnic or cultural influences. lift   Shoe inserts that elevate and cushion the heel for physical therapy or to make the wearer appear taller. Also called heel lift. ligne   A linear unit of measurement used to measure the diameter of buttons; 1 L = 0.025″ (0.635 mm). limited liability company (LLC)  Business entity that provides business owners with tax advantages as well as limited liability for debts incurred by the business based on the capital they invested. Lindbergh jacket   Waist-length heavy woolen or leather jacket with large pockets, lapels, and rolled collar. Made with waistband and cuffs of stretchable rib-knit wool. Der. Type of jacket worn by Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh, who made the first solo flight from New York to Paris across the Atlantic in 1927. line   1. A group of fashion items developed with a theme that links them together and are presented together. 2. A design element that determines the silhouette of the garment; the shapes formed within the garment, used in yarn dyes, patterns, textures, and prints; and details such as tucks, pleats, darts, gathers, and linear trims. Lines have several aspects that determine their character, including length, boldness, thickness, and direction. The impact of line is further defined by how frequently

L: line concept to loafer it is repeated, its placement, and whether it is used symmetrically or asymmetrically. line concept  The mood, theme, and key elements that contribute to the identity of a line. line development  Translating trend information into actual sketches of styles. line plan   A plan that links strategic planning objectives to creative, technical, and production planning, as well as to sales and marketing goals. The line plan identifies the range of products required for each seasonal delivery. also called merchandise plan. line presentation  Showing the proposed line of products to sourcing managers and technical design staff for selection of styles to include in the season’s product line.

linked dress  Dress made by linking geometric-shaped pieces of metal, leather, plastic, or mirror together. Introduced by Paris couturier Paco Rabanne in 1966. linking   Attaching knit trim components to the body of the garment by matching each stitch and joining them together. liquidity   The ease with which a business’s assets can be converted to cash and made available to spend.

list price   The product developer’s suggested retail price.

little black dress   (LBD) A black cocktail dress in a simple cut that is versatile and seductive; it was originated by Coco Chanel in 1926.

line review  A meeting that allows merchants and/or buyers to quantify their orders, taking into consideration product needed for marketing campaigns, visual merchandising displays, and the assortments required for their distribution plan. line sheet  A summary document of all the styles and colorways available in the line, used in-house to track product development progress and to market the line to retail buyers. line-for-line copy   A garment made to replicate an existing garment style, produced in a similar but less expensive fabric to standard size measurements. linen   Fiber from the flax plant. lingerie   (lan′-zha-ree) A category that includes women’s underwear (e.g., slips, petticoats, camisoles, bras, panties), shapewear, and sleepwear. Also called intimate apparel. lingerie hem   Rolled hem with overcast stitches at intervals forming minute puffs between stitches.

little black dress

livestream shopping  Shopping opportunities that are hosted digitally in real time; promotions only last as long as the live stream. An updated version of television shopping networks that engender excitement with social media-savvy customers. LLC   Acronym for limited liability company.

lingerie hem

lining   Fabric, pile fabric, or fur used to finish inside of garment. The extra layer is used for warmth, to retain shape of outer layer, or for appearance. Variations include half linings and zip-in/zip-out linings.

loafer   Slip-on shoe of moccasin-type construction. Variations include the penny loafer, on which a slotted strap is stitched to the vamp into which a coin can be inserted; a chain loafer, trimmed with metal links or hardware trim over the instep; and the tassel-top loafer, which has a leather tassel on the instep.

link belt  A belt made of chain links; it may be a single chain or a series of chains connected together. penny loafer

93

L: local sourcing to loyalty program local sourcing   Business strategy of purchasing materials and producing fashion merchandise within a close proximity to either the ultimate consumer or the company’s distribution center. locket   A fine chain necklace with a gold or silver disk that opens to reveal a picture of a loved one or a lock of hair. lockstitch   Machine stitch done with one thread coming across the top of the machine around the tension and through the needle. Other thread comes from a bobbin on the underside of the machine. lockstitch machine   Forms a stitch where one thread is forced by a needle through layers of fabric and then interlaced with a thread from a bobbin underneath. loft   The thickness of a fabric or insulation, often impacted by the amount of air incorporated into the fabric construction. logistics   The coordination of all processes and people involved in the efficient distribution of raw materials and finished products from point of origin to point of consumption; focus on moving goods from place to place. logistics and transportation manager  A position responsible for oversight of the movement and distribution of inventory in and out of the distribution center. logo   A graphic representation or symbol used by commercial businesses, organizations, or individuals to promote recognition of their company, organization, services, or products.

look   n. Used with descriptive adjectives to characterize the overall impression or appearance of a style or trend, e.g., Christian Dior’s new look, Annie Hall look, or goth look. Looks may not always be widely adopted, but general trends they represent often find their way into the mainstream of fashion, such as the vintage look or the androgynous look. look book   A digital or printed collection of images designed to promote the work of an illustrator, blogger, photographer, model, or brand. In fashion, a look book may be one of several elements used to promote a seasonal line to buyers, both in-store and online. loom   A mechanical device on which cloth is woven. Looms may be hand operated (now used mostly for crafts) or automated for use in the textile manufacturing industry. loop and button closure   Closing with a series of corded loops on one side and covered or round buttons on the other side. Used for its decorative effect. Sometimes used on wedding dresses. lot samples  Randomly selected garments or materials taken from one or more main stock or production lot shipments and used for conducting acceptance testing. Louis heel  Heel of medium height curved sharply inward around sides and back, then flared slightly at base, similar to heels worn in Louis XV period. Low version is called baby Louis heel, and a bell-bottom heel is an exaggerated version with a chunky medium heel, curved inward and then flaring at the bottom.

loincloth   Under- or outer garment consisting of a length of fabric wrapped around the hips and lower abdomen. long johns  Two-piece thermal underwear with closefitting legs that extend to the ankle, and a long-sleeved top. longevity of use   Extending the life of fashions through strategies incorporated throughout the life cycle of the product. long-line bra  Bra that fits the bust or rib cage and extends to waist or below to eliminate bulges. Sometimes boned and wired to be worn without straps. long-range planning  Strategic planning that focuses on general economic and social trends related to consumer spending patterns and the business climate. In forecasting, a timeline sufficient for decisions related to repositioning or extending product lines, initiating new businesses, reviving brand images, or planning new retail concepts. long-term forecasting  The process of analyzing the sources, patterns, and causes of change through the evaluation of current events in order to identify and anticipate directional shifts in business strategies, consumer behavior and lifestyle, and global dynamics. 94

Louis heel

loungewear   Clothes designed to be worn primarily at home when relaxing or entertaining. low culture   Events, activities, directions, and trends derived from local special-interest groups outside of mainstream awareness. low-rise/low-slung   Used to describe any waistline placed below the normal waistline, usually for hiphugger skirts or pants. low-water immersion  A dye process that uses a low water-to-textile ratio. loyalty program  A marketing strategy that offers rewards, discounts, or other special incentives to encourage customers to become repeat shoppers. These programs also provide brands with crucial information on how customers are spending and what products or types of offers are most appealing.

L: LS to lyocell LS   Acronym for lapped seam/lap seam. lumber jacket/lumberjack  Waist-length jacket with a bloused effect and rib-knitted bands at waist and cuffs. Made of woven plaid wool fabric. lunch box bag   Originally designed to mimic the shape of a traditional lunch box with a curved lid. More recently used to describe a bag that mimics the shape of a lunch sack. lurex   Laminated foil and transparent film that is sliced into transparent strips and plied with other fibers into a yarn that can be woven or knit into a fabric with a shiny, glittery look.

luxury brand  Brand classification associated with high prices, high quality, and distinct prestige. Lycra™   A brand name for spandex, which is a manufactured fiber composed largely of segmented polyurethane, which is stretchable, with excellent recovery, lightweight, and resistant to body acid. lyocell   A manufactured form of rayon made from dissolving wood pulp and then reconstituting it by dry-jet wet spinning. It has an extremely smooth, soft surface that drapes well and has good wicking abilities which keep the skin dry. It is also known as Tencel™.

luster   An aesthetic property that is perceived as the amount of light reflected from the textile surface.

95

96

M: machine learning to mall-intercept research made-to-measure   A customized design and manufacturing process whereby a garment/product is made specifically for one individual based on his or her measurements and/or preferences. madras   (mah-drass′) Fabric woven in a variety of structural patterns (e.g., stripes, cords, plaids, dobby, and jacquard) from cotton or cotton blends. Stripes and plaids are yarn-dyed and may bleed; the bleeding is considered an asset, as it tends to soften the sharp plaid effect. maillot   (my′-yo) Woman’s one-piece swimsuit in a tank style or backless with strap tied around neck or buttoned to back of suit. machine learning   A form of artificial intelligence that automates analytical model building, enabling systems to learn with minimal human intervention.  Buttonhole made on machine-made buttonhole  a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch or by a special attachment. mackinaw jacket/mackinaw coat  Hip-length sport jacket of heavy wool, woven in patterns similar to those used for blankets. maillot

mainstream fashion   Those trends adopted by the mass market at a particular point in time. major defects   Flaws that impact the functional performance of a product which will lead to failure at some point during usage. make   The perceived quality of the combined effect of textile, components, seaming, fit, and finish in a garment. mackinaw jacket

mackintosh   Loose-fitting, waterproof raincoat made with rubberized fabric, introduced in 1836 and named for the inventor, Charles Macintosh, who patented the fabric in 1823. macramé   (mak′-rah-may) Two, three, four, or more strands of cord, string, or yarn knotted in groups to form patterns. Craft used by sailors as a pastime, producing belts and ornaments.

make-through production system   A production process where one individual assembles a garment from start to finish. Also called whole garment production system. make-to-order (MTO)  A planning strategy used by wholesalers in which they wait to initiate the process of ordering materials and cutting fabric only after they receive retailers’ orders. make-to-stock (MTS)  A planning strategy used by wholesalers in which they (or their vendors) invest in materials and book factory capacity in advance of retailers’ orders. mall   A large building or series of connected buildings that contain(s) a variety of retail stores and restaurants where consumers can shop. May be indoors and climate controlled or outdoors.

macramé flat knot

macro trends   A long-term directional shift that impacts a large part of the population.

mall-intercept research  Market research conducted for a client using consumers recruited from shoppers in a mall who satisfy the requirements of the client.

97

M: manbag to markdown money manbag   Bag, typically a shoulder bag or a wrist strap bag, that is carried by a man.

mantle   1. A long, loose, cape-like cloak worn by royalty. 2. Historically, a cape-like cloak worn over clothing for warmth and protection.

manbag

mandarin collar   A narrow stand collar usually open in the front. Also called Chinese collar, Nehru collar.

open mantle 13th c.

mandarin collar

mandarin jacket  Jacket with stand collar copied from styles of Chinese mandarin costume. Similar to Nehru jacket. mandatory regulatory standards  Test methods and specifications required by law that are enforced by the government. mannequin/manikin   (man′-eh-kin) 1. A body form used to display clothes in a store window. 2. A person employed by a store or designer to model clothes. man-tailored   Applied to a woman’s suit or coat to imply that the garment is tailored similarly to a man’s suit, coat, or shirt, as contrasted with tailoring of the softer type used in dressmaker suits. Sometimes made in menswear fabrics. mantilla   (man-til′-ah) 1. Shawl or veil worn by Spanish women, usually of black lace; white lace is worn for festive occasions. Worn draped over head, sometimes over a high comb placed in hair, wrapped around neck, and falling over shoulders. This shawl has influenced 20th-c. fashions, particularly bridal veils. 2. Large, oblong, fine lace veil, usually in rose pattern of black or white, worn wrapped over the head and crossed under chin with one end thrown over shoulder. In Spain and South America, frequently worn to church instead of a hat.

manual grading  The process of increasing or decreasing a pattern size to the full range of desired sizes by adding or subtracting incremental measurements to each grading point and then reblending the outer lines of the pattern shape. The incremental measurements are called grade rules. manufactured fiber   Fiber manufactured from cellulosic materials (e.g., rayon, acetate, lyocell), synthetic polymers (e.g., polyester, nylon, acrylic), protein (e.g., milk protein fiber), or inorganic materials (e.g., glass, metal). Manufactured fibers rely on chemical solutions to transform the material into its filament/fiber form. manufacturer-defined quality  A measure of excellence or a state of being free from defects and variations. Mao jacket   A straight-cut suit jacket with mandarin collar designed with political symbolism as a counterpoint to the Western suit; it is based on a jacket worn during the Qing Dynasty (1694–1912). As a symbol of proletarian unity, the four pockets represent the four virtues: honesty, shame, propriety, and justice. The five buttons represent the five branches of Chinese government: legislation, supervision, examination, administration, and jurisdiction. The three cuff buttons represent the three principles of the people: nationalism, democracy, and peoples’ livelihood. It was frequently made out of cotton, without a lining. marabou   Delicate, fluffy, fine feathers from tail and wing of a species of stork, made into trimmings that sell by the yard/meter. markdown   Reduction of the retail price of an apparel item. Some markdowns are temporary, while others are permanent.

mantilla

98

markdown money  An amount deducted from the invoice price originally agreed to by retailer and wholesaler at the beginning of the season: the retailer tries to recover losses they claim to have been caused by poor product or late deliveries from the last season.

M: marker to mature industries marker   A precise arrangement of pattern pieces for cutting a specific garment style in a single size or combination of sizes from a spread of fabric in multiple layers. Also called production marker. marker making  The process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a particular style, fabric, and set of sizes. market   1. A group of potential customers that represent the potential demand for a product or service. 2. Location where the buying and selling of merchandise takes place. 3. To promote a product or service through media or public relations efforts. market analysis  Type of marketing research that provides information about general market trends. market calendar  The schedule of dates and locations for trade shows and markets. See also market week. market penetration  A measure of the share a brand commands in a given market. market research analyst  A person responsible for gathering and analyzing market data to help companies promote their products and services. market saturation  The situation where there are few new customers within a market to attract; sales depend primarily on replacement purchases. market segmentation  The practice of breaking down consumer markets into increasingly smaller, welldefined niches. market share  Percentage of total volume (dollar or unit) a particular company or brand captures. market week   Scheduled periods throughout the year during which producers and their sales representatives introduce new lines for the upcoming season to retail buyers. marketing   A system of business activities designed to plan, price, promote, and distribute products and services in concert with the values, wants, needs, and behaviors of existing and potential customers. marketing and sales function   The functional area responsible for market research, sales forecasts, customer support, and creating and scheduling the marketing plan. marketing research  Process of providing information to determine what the customer will need and want, and when and where the customer will want to make purchases. markup   The amount of money added to the manufacturer’s cost to determine the final retail sales price. A keystone markup doubles the cost of the merchandise; today markups may be significantly more in order to cover the costs of price promotions and steep markdowns. marled yarn   Yarn that is mottled or streaked with different colors.

mart   A building or building complex housing both permanent and transient showrooms of producers and their sales representatives. Mary Jane  Flat or low-heeled shoe originally made of patent leather with a round toe and single strap over the instep that buttons or buckles at the center or side.

Mary Jane

mask   Covering for the face used as a disguise for Halloween or masquerades. Also worn as a protection for the face during medical pandemics, by medical professionals, for active sports, and industrial purposes. mass customization  The application of mass-production techniques to the production of a single customerconfigured garment in order to maximize choice and minimize cost. mass merchandiser  Retailer that provides fashion for the mass market. mass production  The manufacture of large quantities of the same item of apparel by using automated techniques. mass-market fashion  Fashionable goods that are produced in large quantities and sold at moderate prices to many consumers who follow fashion. mass-market theory   See horizontal-flow theory. mass-production manufacturing  The most common manufacturing strategy used for fashion products; capitalizes on economies of scale. masstige   The convergence of mass-market and prestige design when luxury designers create apparel for the mass market. Also referred to as high-low when it describes the phenomenon of high-income groups mixing discount apparel with their designer purchases while lower-income groups are splurging on luxury labels for a few key pieces. master calendar  A calendar that indicates when each step of the design and distribution of a season’s line must be completed. material specifications  The designated performance expectations required for all materials used to complete a garment style. maternity clothes  Garments designed to be worn by pregnant women. mature industries  Industries that produce products characterized by relatively stable sales from year to year and by a high level of competition.

99

M: maxi length to merchandising function maxi length  Garments that reach the ankles. Word coined in 1968. Ankle-length dresses were worn for day or evening, which was the first time since World War I that ankle-length dresses were worn as daytime dresses.

menswear-inspired   adj. Characterizing a style of women’s garments using menswear references, including man-tailored blazers and coats; pinstriped suits; men’s tailored dress shirts worn with neckties; and tailored, cuffed trousers.

m-commerce   The ability to shop and transact business on one’s mobile phone.  measurement chart  A list found in a specification package with target finished garment measurements that guide the patternmaker to create a first pattern. After the sample is approved for production, the measurement chart is graded for each size. media kit   Package of information, photographs, videos, media releases, displays, giveaways, and other information and promotional items for publicity purposes for print, broadcast, and digital media sources. medic collar  Stand collar fastened on the side with a single button. Made like those on a physician’s white jacket that has a side closing. medieval   adj. In a broad sense, usually refers to period of 500 to 1450; same as Middle Ages. For historic costume study the period is sometimes divided into Byzantine (400–1100), Romanesque (900–1200), Early Gothic (1200– 1350), and Late Gothic (1350–1450). meditation shirt  Loose, open-sleeved, pullover tunic, usually made of Indian printed cotton or of solid colors and banded with embroidery around slit neck, across shoulders, and at hem. Der. Part of late-1960s ethnic trend inspired by Eastern gurus. melon sleeve  A short to medium length sleeve that is gathered at the cap and gathered into a band or elastic at the bottom to form a spherical shape. Similar to a puff sleeve but more exaggerated and sophisticated.

menswear style

mercerization   A finishing process that involves the application of caustic soda to cotton yarn, fabric, or thread, to increase luster, strength, and dyeability of the fabric. merchandise budget   A financial document that identifies how development resources will be allocated in order to achieve the required inventory levels to meet sales goals. merchandise mart  A trade center with year-round showrooms and exhibition space for exhibiting and selling apparel lines to retail buyers. Dallas and Atlanta have permanent marts; in other cities, seasonal trade shows may be held in rented exhibition space so as to avoid the overhead of permanent showrooms. merchandiser   A position responsible for evaluating and interpreting sales data, marketing research, and trend research in setting the direction for and coordinating lines created by the fashion brand company and/or retailer.

melon sleeve

melton   Heavy, durable, coating fabric that looks somewhat like wool broadcloth and has a hand similar to felt. Compactness of the fabric makes it warm and protective against wind penetration. memes   An image, video or piece of text that is copied, sometimes with slight variations and spread via the internet. men’s furnishings   Merchandising term meaning “menswear,” especially when sold by a haberdashery.

100

merchandising   Management processes across the supply chain related to buying and selling fashion products, including product assortment planning, development of new products, coordination of manufacturing and marketing, pricing, presentation, and sales to fulfill a company’s financial goals. merchandising function   The functional area responsible for the planning, development, and presentation of product lines for identified target markets with regard to price, assortment, styling, and timing. This function develops the line plan and time and action calendar as well as identifying line release dates that correspond to market weeks

M: merger to mill end and trade shows. Merchandisers ensure that stock levels are optimized for planned seasonal promotions. merger   A sale of one company to another with the result that only one company exists. mermaid dress  Slim, fitted evening gown introduced by designer Norman Norell in late 1960s. Dress was completely covered with sequins or paillettes.

metamerism   A phenomenon that occurs when two colors appear to match under one type of light, but not when the light source changes. metric count   Linear density in length per unit mass of all spun yarns, measured in 1,000 meter lengths per gram. metrics   Measures of quantitative assessment used to compare and track performance or production. micro   Hemline ending at the upper thigh. The micro length evolved as a more extreme and daring alternative to the mini length. This length is often worn over pants, leggings, or tights. Also used to refer to any very small piece of clothing. microblog   A social media site designed specifically for short frequent posts in the form of text, images, or videos. Examples are Twitter, Tumblr, and Instagram. microencapsulation   A form of nanotechnology that embeds substances in fibers that can change with exterior conditions, affecting release of energy or chemicals. microfiber   A fiber two or three times thinner than a human hair and thinner than wool, cotton, flax, or silk fibers. It has a texture similar to silk or cashmere but is wrinkle-resistant.

mermaid dress 1960s

merry widow   Bra and short girdle combined into a minimal support garment. Made of elastic power-net, some versions are made in a lacy pattern with a ruffle and hose supporters at lower edge.

micromarketing   The trend to market apparel to increasingly smaller, well-defined niche markets. microplastics   Very small pieces of plastic, typically less than 5 mm in length, that pollute the environment. Can be contributed by the shedding of synthetic textiles during usage. Their environmental harm is caused by their slow degradation which occurs over hundreds, if not thousands of years. microtrend   A trend that is expected to be limited to a short period of time or a small, specialized group of consumers. middleman   An agent who oversees the handling of some part of the transfer of merchandise from the manufacturer to the retailer.

merry widow

mesh bag   Tiny links of metal joined to make a flexible bag. Popular in early 1900s in small size with sterling silver top and chain, with the metal frequently enameled in a floral design. In the 1940s, mesh handbags were made with larger white enameled links and white plastic frames. messenger bag  Large bag with an envelope-like main compartment that usually closes with a zipper and has a large flap over the front that fastens with a buckle or snap. May have either shoulder straps or handles. Inspired by bags typically carried by messengers. A smaller version with a more tailored, square appearance is called a courier bag.

middy collar   See sailor collar. midi length  (mid′-ee) Hemline coming to the mid-calf of the leg. midriff   That part of a garment that covers the middle part of the torso between the chest and the abdomen. When used as an adjective, it generally means that the midriff is exposed. military   adj. Characterizing clothes and accessories inspired by the uniforms of those enlisted in the military as well as military officers. Frequently trimmed with brass buttons.

messenger bag

military braid   Flat, ribbed, worsted, or gold braid, sometimes in twill weave, in various widths. Used to designate rank on military uniforms. mill end   See remnant. 101

M: millennials to moderate market/price point millennials   The second “baby boomlet” group, born from 1977 to 1987. Also known as generation Y. milliner   One who makes headwear for women. millinery   1. Headwear, generally for women. 2. The craft of making hats. minaudière   (min-oh’-dee-yehr′) Small, rigid, metal evening bag made in oval, oblong, or square shapes. Carried in hand or by short chain. mini bag   Small bag that became popular in the 1960s with the introduction of miniskirts. Tiny bags were introduced in all styles. Some had double and triple frames, usually with attached shoulder chains or straps.

mittens   Gloves with a thumb and one other compartment for fingers; worn mainly by children and skiers for warmth. mobile payments  A payment made for a product or service through a portable electronic device. moccasin   Heelless shoe in which the sole is made of leather and comes up to form the quarter and part of the vamp. A tongue-like curved piece is hand-stitched to complete the vamp. Thong is threaded around the collar of the slipper and ties on the instep. Frequently fleecelined. May have fringe, beadwork, or tassel trim. Sometimes called Indian moccasin because this footwear was worn originally by Native Americans.

mini length  (minn′-ee) adj. Descriptive of any fashion item with a hem that ends well above the knee, typically about mid-thigh. minimalism   A fashion movement, based on the 1960s art movement of the same name, that reduces designs to their most essential elements. The focus is on pairing shapes, fabrics, proportions, and colors that create harmony in the whole. It was exemplified by designers Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. minimizer bra  A bra designed to reduce the bust area by compressing the breasts. Minimizer bras are designed with a fuller cup and higher sides than the cup of other styles to eliminate spillover. minimum order   The quantity, number of styles, and/or dollar amount required by the manufacturer in order to accept the retail store buyer’s order.  minor defects   Flaws that impact the aesthetic appearance of a garment.

moccasin

mock pocket   Flap sewed on outside of garment to suggest a real pocket. mock safety stitch   A category of machine stitches used for seaming similar to a safety stitch (see safety stitch) but where the seaming and finishing stitches are linked on either the underside or both sides of the fabric. mock turtleneck collar  Single unfolded fabric band that reaches a short distance up the neck, made to simulate a turtleneck collar.

misregister   Incorrect alignment of colors within a print. misses sizes   Women’s garments cut for an adult figure about 5′ 4″ to 5′ 6″ (162–168 cm) tall. Misses sizing is designed to fit a figure with more curves than junior sizing. Sizes are expressed in even numbers and may range from 0 to 18, although each brand determines the exact size range it will offer. mission statement   A component of the strategic plan that reflects the company’s heritage by articulating why it is in business, the customer it serves, and what makes it special. A good mission statement sets the tone for corporate culture, supply chain relationships, and the establishment of the company’s values. miter   To finish the corner of a piece of fabric in a way that eliminates bulk by stitching a diagonal seam where the two turned up edges meet.

102

mock turtleneck collar

mod   A subculture that originated in London and was popular from the late 1950s to the mid-1960s, developing around the jazz and rhythm-and-blues music scene. Short for modernist, characteristics of mod fashion included slim-cut suits in a pseudo-Edwardian style, miniskirts, and longer, neat hair for men. The look was exemplified by the dress of the Beatles. mode   (French) Fashion.

mitered corner

moderate market/price point   A price point just below the better price point; average prices for mass-produced

M: Modern Slavery Act (MSA) to motorcycle jacket apparel geared to meeting the needs of middle-income families and individuals. Modern Slavery Act (MSA)  The first act of its kind globally to seek to comprehensively address both the definition and enforcement of modern slavery crimes and to address the situation of the victims of the crimes. It also attempts to address the role that complex supply chains can play in covering up the linkage of global business to modern slavery. It was passed in the UK in 2015. modular manufacturing  Type of flexible manufacturing whereby the sewing facility is organized into teams of cross-trained sewing operators who are responsible for manufacturing a complete product. mohair   Fiber obtained from the hair of the angora goat or fabric made from that hair. moiré   Fabric with a ripple pattern created by applying heated rollers that flatten some of the heavy crosswise yarns, thus changing the light-reflection properties. moment of discovery   The time, place, and/or piece of information where a consumer becomes interested in a brand, product, or service; similarly, the moment that a consumer is engaged sufficiently to explore a brand’s offerings and to put something in their cart and initiate a purchase. These are all critical points of consumer engagement. Mondrian dress  (mohn′-dree-yon) Straight, unconstructed dress made with blocks of color and neutrals heavily banded with black. Introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in Fall 1965 collection. Der. Inspired by modern linear paintings by Piet Mondrian.

money belt

monochromatic   A color harmony that consists of a combination of tints and shades of a single hue. monofilament thread  One single continuous filament fiber that requires no twist. monogram   One or more initials embroidered, printed, or engraved on a garment, accessory, or jewelry. Usually these will be the initials of the owner; however, sometimes the initials of the designer who created the garment may be used. mono-material   A product that is wholly composed of a single material. Mono-materials are easier to recycle. monopoly   Type of competition in business in which there is typically one company that dominates the market and can thus price its goods and/or services at whatever scale its management wishes. mood board   A collection of physical or digital images, sketches, tear sheets, color chips, and swatches that inspire a designer’s work on a particular group. Also called concept board. morning coat   See tail coat. mortarboard   Academic headgear consisting of large, square black brim attached horizontally to a cap. A large tassel in center of the flat top is positioned to the right side before graduation, and switched to the left after. Worn all over US today, and since 14th c. at universities including Oxford and Cambridge in England. mother-of-pearl button   Button made from nacre, the inside shell of the oyster. First manufactured in US in 1885 from imported mollusks and later from domestic oysters found in Chesapeake Bay. motifs   Design elements that create patterns when used in repetition. motorcycle boots  A protective boot worn for riding. Modern versions take advantage of technology, utilizing soft leather to allow for flexing of the ankle and a rugged tread pattern on the sole that dampens vibrations and allows for walking on any kind of turf. Some soles are made with a steel shank.

Mondrian dress 1960s

money belt   Belt worn under or over clothing when traveling, with hidden zippered compartment for money.

motorcycle helmet  Molded plastic helmet with foam lining worn when riding a motorcycle. Usually has a large dark-colored plastic shield that snaps on to protect eyes and face. motorcycle jacket   Close-fitting black leather jacket, waist length, and fastened to one side of center front

103

M: MSA to myBMP with zipper, snap fasteners, or buttons. Popular in the 1960s and since then worn by both children and adults. Very similar to the perfecto jacket (see perfecto jacket). Also called cycle jacket. MSA   Acronym for modern slavery act. MTO   Acronym for make-to-order. MTS   Acronym for make-to-stock. muff   Warm tubular covering for the hands open at each end, frequently of fur or rich fabrics—usually round or oblong in many sizes—sometimes with concealed inner pockets.

washing are more humane alternatives, but the practice has not been outlawed. mullet   A man’s hairstyle that is cut short at the front and sides and left long in the back; it began to appear in the 1960s and 1970s, but became generally well known in the early 1980s. multi-brand retailers   A concept where stores or digital portals sell more than one brand. In brick-and-mortar stores, department stores and big box, mass merchants are examples. Digitally, there are numerous portals that also offer multiple brands. multichannel   Companies offering products and/or services through a variety of platforms, including catalog, digital, and brick-and-mortar stores.  multilateral trade agreement   Trade agreements among multiple countries. multinational corporation  Private or publicly traded corporation that operates in several countries.

muff

muffler   A scarf worn around the neck for warmth. mukluk   1. Boot reaching to lower calf worn by Alaskan Eskimos, made of walrus hide or sealskin in moccasin construction, tanned with the hair left on. Copied for winter wear for men, women, and children in same style since 1960s. 2. Slipper socks made in moccasin construction.

multinational supply chain   Supply chain that is transnational, with steps in the production process completed in a global network of countries. Munsell color system  A color specification system that notates color according to the attributes of hue (H), value (V), and chroma (C), each expressed using code numbers that allow users to specify specific colors. The Munsell color solid is shaped like an amoeba rather than a sphere, because an intense yellow requires more steps on the saturation scale to go from full saturation to gray than a dark purple does. muscle shirt  A sleeveless tight-fitting T-shirt designed to show off the wearer’s physique.

mule

mulberry silk   Silk obtained from silkworms that are fed on leaves of cultivated mulberry tree. mule   A style of shoe, of any heel height, with vamp but no back or constraint around the heel of the foot. Often made of fancy leathers and fabrics. mulesing   Practice whereby flesh is stripped from the buttocks of Merino lambs to create scarred skin with no wrinkles or folds. This controversial practice is used to prevent blowflies from laying eggs in the folds of the animal’s skin. PETA believes that a special diet and spray

104

muse   A person, usually a woman, who is the source of artistic inspiration. In fashion this may be a client or employee of the design house or a celebrity who embodies the ideal look for a designer. mushroom pleats   Linear, heat-set, somewhat irregular pleats, similar to Fortuny pleating but looser. muslin   1. Inexpensive woven cotton of various weights used to prototype fashion garments. 2. Sometimes used to refer to a prototype garment to evaluate styling and fit. myBMP   An Australian body for the certification of cotton fiber as it pertains to environmental and ethical stewardship.

N: NAFTA to needle felt Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821) as depicted by J. L. David, court painter.

narrow and deep assortment   One in which there are relatively few styles, but these styles are stocked in all available sizes and colors. National Standards Body (NSB)  Part of the British Standards Institute that oversees the development of standards for use in the UK.

National Standards System (NSS)  Develops voluntary standards and adapts international standards for use in Canada.

natural fibers   Fibers cultivated and harvested from animal and plant sources.

NAFTA   Acronym for North American Free Trade Agreement. NAICS   Acronym for north american industry classification system. nailhead   Surface trim that resembles the head of a nail, often used on leather and accessory items. nameplate   A separate piece attached to a bag which identifies the designer or brand; frequently made of metal, but also made of leather, vinyl, and other materials. nano-finishing   The process of coating the surface of textiles and clothing with nanoparticles, which results in apparel that possesses one or more desirable properties such as wrinkle resistance. nanometer   The unit of measurement used to measure light waves, equal to one millionth of a millimeter. nanoparticles   Molecules and atoms with overall dimensions of 1-100 nanometers in any direction. nanotechnology   A branch of technology that deals with the manipulation of single molecules and atoms with dimensions and tolerances of less than 100 nanometers. One example of nanotechnology is its use to form a barrier to substances with the potential to stain the fabric. Because of the small size of nanoparticles there is no sense of any change in the texture of the fabric. nap   Fiber ends, protruding on the surface of one or both sides of a fabric, which produce a fuzzy appearance and soft texture. Achieved by brushing the surface of a fabric with loosely twisted yarn. The nap may be brushed in one direction, so when cutting a garment with a nap, pieces of the pattern should be placed so that the nap runs in the same direction in all pieces. nap finish  Creation of a suede-like finish on the grain side of the leather. Napoleonic collar  Collar that rolls up high on neck at the back and then turns over. Extends approximately three-quarters of the way around neck with wide lapels in front and double-breasted closing. Der. Named for

natural shoulder   Follows body lines, with sleeve set in at natural armhole without padding. natural waistline   Belt or seam placed at narrowest part of the torso; the anatomical waistline.

naturally colored cotton   Cotton that has been bred to grow in colors other than the natural off-white that is in widespread commercial use. Naturally colored cotton has been produced in shades of green, brown, red, and grey. nautical   adj. Describes items of clothing and motifs borrowed from navy uniforms or seamen’s clothes, frequently using a red, white, and blue color scheme and symbols such as stars, chevrons, or stripes. Navajo   Native American tribe of Southwestern US living in Arizona and New Mexico, noted for metalworking in iron, copper, and silver; blankets woven in distinctive geometric designs; and for handmade silver jewelry often set with turquoise. The latter is not only a classic fashion in the Western states, but is also popular throughout the United States.

nearshoring   Sourcing contract manufacturing in nearby countries in order to get product to market more quickly and avoid overproducing. neckerchief   Triangular scarf, either cut in shape of a triangle or a square folded diagonally, and worn around the neck. neckline   Contour or shape of clothing at neck, shoulders, or above the bust.

neckwear   Accessories worn around neck other than jewelry. Includes neckties, scarves, and collars.

needle   1. Small, thin spike, usually of polished steel, with one end pointed and an eye at the other end through which the thread is drawn for sewing. 2. A long implement, without an eye, that has a dull point at one or both ends, that is used for hand knitting. Single-pointed needles have a stopper at the other end. They are used in pairs or multiples to hold unsecured stitches. 3. A long implement without an eye that has a hook at one end, used for crocheting. needle felt   A type of felting that integrates fleece into a woven textile base by a poking motion using a barbed needle. 105

N: needle trade to nonwoven textiles needle trade   See apparel industry. negligee   (neg-glee-zheh′) Flowing informal woman’s robe of delicate fabric with trimming of lace, ruffles, etc., often worn with a matching nightgown.

nightshirt   Sleeping garment worn by both men and women styled like a man’s shirt.

Nehru collar   (nay′-roo) See mandarin collar. Nehru jacket/Nehru coat  (nay′-roo) Single-breasted jacket or coat that buttons up the center front; slightly fitted, with a stand collar, it was introduced in the late 1960s. Adapted from type of coat worn by Indian maharajahs. net sales   The sum of company’s gross sales minus its returns, allowances, and discounts. New Look  Style introduced by couturier Christian Dior in Paris in 1947. The style—characterized by a rounded shoulder, tightly fitted waistline, curved hipline, and hemline that was almost 6″ (15 cm) longer than prevailing styles—was a radical departure from the wartime styles. The fashion press called these changes the “New Look,” the first time the word “look” had been used to describe an overall style.

nightshirt

No Sweat  A not-for-profit organization, based in the UK, that fights to eliminate the exploitation of sweatshops globally. noise   (in time-series forecasting) The part of sales fluctuations that appears to be random and cannot be explained because the pattern has not occurred consistently in the past. nomad   adj. Descriptive of apparel inspired by clothing worn by nomadic tribes of Middle East countries. Unusual patterned fabrics, and use of shearling and embroidered leather as exemplified by the Afghan jacket and vest (see Afghan jacket/vest). nonconformance   When material or garment characteristics do not meet specified quality standards.

New Look

newsbag   Tote bag style with separate section on the outside to slip in a rolled magazine or newspaper. newsboy cap  Soft fabric cap with flat, bloused crown and visor that sometimes snaps to the crown. Formerly worn by newsboys. NGO   Acronym for nongovernment organization. niche market  A narrowly focused target customer. Niche markets may be defined along the lines of age, income, ethnicity, or lifestyle. nightgown   An item of apparel, styled similar to a loose dress, worn by women and children for sleeping.

nondegradable fibers  Fibers of synthetic polymers from oil, which do not decompose within human and industrial timescales. non-Euclidean patternmaking geometry  A new system of patternmaking based on the mathematics of curved surfaces. Traditional patternmaking relies on linear measurements and Euclidean geometry that accurately measures flat shapes. Using non-Euclidean geometry to measure and study the curved areas of the body is more accurate and gives the patternmaker more control and creative freedom.  Nonprofit nongovernment organization (NGO)  voluntary citizens’ group that operates independent of government. nonprofit organization   Organization whereby the revenues available after all expenses are paid are completely reinvested into the work of the organization. nonrenewable resources  Resources of economic value that cannot be replaced by natural means on a level equal to its consumption.

flannel nightgown

106

nonwoven textiles  Created by entangling fibers and then pressing them into a smooth fabric.

N: Norfolk jacket to Nureyev shirt Norfolk jacket  Belted hip-length jacket with two box pleats from shoulders or chest to hem, on front and back. Matching fabric belt is either threaded through slots under pleats or worn over them.

notched collar   See tailored collar.

notched lapel   Part of a tailored collar that has a triangular shape formed where the fabric of the lapels meets the fabric of the collar.

note   (fragrances) Each scent that makes up a fragrance; notes vary in strength and duration. notions   See findings.

novelty fabric   Unusual yarn, print, pattern, weave, or knit that makes a fabric unique. These fabrics are often chosen for garments to convey the seasonal concept of a brand’s line; they are typically more expensive than basic fabrics.

Norfolk jacket

North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA)  A multilateral trade agreement between Mexico, the United States, and Canada that features duty-free exchange of goods and unified, simplified import and export systems among the partners. It was replaced by the United StatesMexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) in 2020. North American Industry Classification System (NAICS)   Developed in cooperation with Canada and Mexico, a standard used by government agencies to classify businesses by type of economic activity for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data.

north-south bag   A bag that is longer in height than it is in width.

notch   1. Markings cut into the seam allowance of pattern pieces to indicate how pieces should be matched up when they are joined together. 2. The triangular shape between the lapel and the collar, formed where the gorge line ends.

novelty item  A garment considered to be a “fashion” item rather than a key item basic. It often appears in ads and on social media. Its novel style draws interest and excitement to the seasonal line. NSB   Acronym for national standards body. NSS   Acronym for national standards system. nubuck   A hide on which the outside (top-grain side) has been sanded, resulting in a napped effect similar to suede. Because the outside of the hide is used, it is more durable than suede. nude heel   Women’s hosiery that has no reinforcement at the heel. Designed to be worn with mules or slingback shoes. numeric sizes   Sizes designated by numerical classification rather that alphabetic classification. Numeric sizes are appropriate for garments designed to fit close to the body, as there are typically more sizes in a numeric range than in alphabetic classifications. Nureyev shirt   (noor-ay′-ef) Shirt with long, full sleeves gathered in bands at wrists and a low, round neckline finished with bias binding, named for Rudolf Nureyev (1938–1993), ballet performer.

107

108

O: oaktag to online streaming offshore contractor  Contract factory located outside the country in which the finished goods will be distributed. offshore production  The importation of goods by domestic apparel producers, either from their own plants operating in cheap, labor-rich foreign areas, or through their long-term supply arrangements with foreign producers.

offshore sourcing  Procurement of materials and/or manufacturing finished products outside the country where the merchandise will be sold at retail. off-the-rack   See ready-to-wear.

off-the-shoulder neckline   Low neckline, extending around upper part of the arms, baring the shoulders.

oaktag   See tagboard.

oligopoly   Type of competition in business in which a few companies dominate and essentially have control of the market, making it difficult for other companies to enter.

obi belt/sash  A wide sash that is worn around the waist of a Japanese kimono. Variations of the look are periodically adapted in Western fashion. observability   The degree to which the benefits of using an innovation are visible to potential adopters. observational research  Type of marketing research whereby consumers are watched while they shop, purchase, and/ or use products in their natural settings.

obi-styled sash

observer metamerism   The perceived difference in color match between two observers—to one’s eye the pair matches and to the other’s eye the pair does not match. obsolescence   A decline in the competitiveness, usefulness, or value of a product or service. ochy pants   Pants with a front hip pocket opening that extends out from the body; popularized by Maria Cornejo. ODM   Acronym for original design manufacturing. OEM   Acronym for original equipment manufacturing. off grain  adj. 1. Descriptive of the condiochy pant tion in which lengthwise and crosswise threads in a fabric do not meet at 90 degrees. 2. Descriptive of a garment that is cut so that the grainline on the pattern piece is not parallel to the grain of the fabric, causing the garment to twist or hang crookedly. off price  adj. Merchandise or retailing of merchandise purchased at discount prices. off-price retailing  The selling of brand-name and designer merchandise at lower than normal retail prices to dispose of overstocks or when they are at the late rise or early peak in the fashion cycle. offshore   Conducting business abroad, often to take advantage of lower costs or fewer regulations.

off-the-shoulder neckline

oligopsony   Type of competition in business where the number of buyers is small but they buy in such large quantities that the number of suppliers may be large. The concentration of demand gives buyers great influence over their suppliers.

ombré   (om′-bray) (French, “shaded”) A pattern that is achieved from the blending of one color hue to another, usually moving from tints to shades (light to dark). This is done by slowly adding the textile into the dye bath to create a gradation of color. omni-channel   The seamless use of multiple shopping platforms in the decision and purchase process.

on grain  adj. 1. Descriptive of a fabric in which the lengthwise and crosswise threads of a fabric meet at 90 degrees. 2. Descriptive of a garment that is cut so that the grainline on the pattern piece is parallel to the grain of the fabric. on order   Goods ordered but not yet received.

on-demand manufacturing  A business model where retailers never have to warehouse inventory. Manufacturing begins only after the customer places an order. one-shoulder neckline   Asymmetric neckline starting under one arm and continuing diagonally over opposite shoulder, leaving one shoulder bare.

online retailing   A form of electronic commerce which allows consumers to buy goods or services from a seller over the internet using a web browser or a mobile app.

one-shoulder neckline

online streaming   The technology of transmitting audio and video files in a continuous flow over the internet. Any media content, live or recorded, delivered to computers and mobile devices via the internet and played back in real time. 109

O: onshoring to outlet mall onshoring   Moving manufacturing to a domestic factory. op art  Abstract art characterized by bold geometric shapes and contrasting color palettes that create optical illusions. opaque hose/opaque pantyhose  (oh-pake′) Textured or plain hose or pantyhose that are not sheer and come in all colors. Opaque nylon pantyhose are 40 denier or more in weight. open air center   A strip mall or shopping center that is not enclosed. Consumers need to pass outdoors to move from one store to another. The rent on open air centers is usually less than enclosed malls. Open Letter to the Fashion Industry  A movement started by designer Dries Van Noten in 2020 encouraging the fashion industry to use the chaotic times of the pandemic to transform the seasonality of the fashion calendar and the associated discounting that comes about because lines are delivered well before the customer is ready to purchase and wear. It was signed by designers, executives, retailers, and more. open order   An unfilled order that is reserved with the proviso that it is not to be executed or delivered until confirmed. While an order is open, it can either be confirmed, modified, cancelled, or left to expire. open seam   In quality terms, an area of a garment where not all the fabric plies are caught in the seam. open source  Software for which the original source code is freely available and may be redistributed and modified. open spec   Specification that provides generic information and basic necessary facts, while allowing flexibility for the factory to solve problems and meet delivery and standards and still offer competitive costs. opening price point   The least costly item in a line. open-to-buy (OTB)  A calculation based on difference between merchandise a buyer plans to order over a specified period and what has already been ordered. The open-to-buy amount can be used by the buyer to adjust orders so as to maintain inventory and profitability. opera glasses   Small binoculars used to provide close-up view at the opera or theater. Usually a fashionable accessory decorated with mother-of-pearl, gold, brocade, etc. opera gloves  Long-length gloves that reach above the elbow. operating expenses  All the expenses that a retailer must pay to run the retail business. operations   Strategies, activities, and management systems required for a fashion brand company to operate on a day-to-day basis, including human resource management, inventory management, facility and store design and maintenance, and merchandising strategies.

110

operations manager  A position responsible for overseeing the day-to-day operations of departments within a distribution center with a focus on safety, efficiency, and workforce engagement. opinion leader   Individual who is influential on the attitudes and decision-making of people in their social circle. See also fashion leader. organdy   Lightweight sheer cotton fabric with a permanently crisp hand. organic cotton  Cotton that is certified to have been grown from seeds that were not genetically altered and without the use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. organic marketing strategy   A strategy that relies on marketing that does not cost money to generate traffic to a business naturally over time. Blog posts, case studies, guest posts, unpaid tweets, and Facebook updates are all tools of organic marketing. Organic marketing is especially important for entrepreneurial businesses. organza   Lightweight, sheer, transparent fabric that is stiff and wiry, made in a plain weave of either silk or synthetic fibers. original design manufacturing (ODM)   Function of a company that  designs  and manufactures a product, as specified, that is eventually rebranded by another firm for sale. original equipment manufacturing (OEM)   This type of contractor finances and sources fabrics and component garment parts needed to assemble garments based on contracted specifications, and assembles, finishes, and packages the products for delivery to the retail destination. Also called full package contractor/ vendor. ornamental seam class stitches (OS)  ASTM International designation for adding decoration to one or more plies of material by means of a series of stitches expressed in a straight, curved, or designated design for the purpose of adding decoration, rather than function, to a garment. OS   Acronym for ornamental seam class stitches. osprey feather  Feather from the osprey or fish hawk; the breast feathers are white, other feathers brown or grayish-brown and crossed by brown bars; used for trimming on hats in early 20th c. ostrich   Leather with a distinctive pattern caused by removal of plumes from ostrich skins. OTB   Acronym for open-to-buy. outlet mall  A shopping center consisting of outlet stores. To keep overhead costs down, they are most often located in rural areas or tourist locations/destinations and are generally outdoor facilities with few amenities or services.

O: outlet store to oxford cloth outlet store   Brand-owned stores that product developers use to broaden their customer base as well as sell excess goods, overruns, and irregulars at discounted prices.

overedge stitch   Thread that encompasses the cut edge of the fabric piece; the machine trims the fabric as the overedge stitches are formed.

outliers   Unexplained cases or facts that are unexpectedly high or low in value in information analysis.

over-the-knee boot  Long footwear that ends at some point above the knee.

outside shop   See apparel contractor.

over-the-knee sock  Sock or stocking that reaches above the knee.

overdyeing   A technique of applying dye over a previously dyed or printed textile. over run  Goods that have been produced surplus to what was ordered.

quarters tongue facings topline vamp

overalls   Pants with a bib top and suspender straps over the shoulders that cross in back. overcoat   Man’s coat, heavier than a topcoat, designed for very cold weather. Sometimes lined with fur or modacrylic pile and made in any of a variety of styles. overcut   Creating a garment pattern that is larger to accommodate the initial shrinkage that occurs during construction pressing.

Oxford   Basic style of low shoe, usually fastened with shoelaces.

sole

insole

heel

Oxford shoes

oxford cloth  Shirting fabric made in a plain, twill, or basket weave that is sportier and somewhat heavier than fabric used in dress shirts.

overalls

111

112

P: packaging to pants pajamas/pyjamas   1. Two piece item of apparel designed for sleeping. 2. A term used to describe the category of garments worn for sleeping. 3. In the late 1960s the term was adopted to describe garments worn for lounging and casual entertaining.

packaging   Material used to encase and protect a consumer item while also identifying and marketing the brand. padded bra   A bra with fiberfill, cotton, or gel added to the cup to enhance the size and definition of the bust and eliminate nipple definition, providing a more fashionable silhouette. pagoda sleeve  (pah-gode′-ah) A funnel-shaped outer sleeve turning back to expose an inner sleeve and lining.

pajamas

Pakistani vest   Fitted vest with long, gold-braided, shawl collar, fastened in front with invisible hooks, and elaborately trimmed around edges with wide gilt braid, mirrors, and tassels. palazzo pants  (pah-latz′-zoh) Women’s long, wide pajamas or culottes with voluminous flared legs and gathered waist. Panama hat   A hat style that originated in Cuenca, Ecuador. It is a wide-brimmed hat made of straw-like material, primarily worn by men, but also adopted by women. Pantone® Professional Color Matching System  A color specification system that includes a color atlas with 3,049 colors identified by name and color code allowing it to be reproduced. They also offer a full range of digital software and devices for accurate color measurement and color communication across the supply chain.

pagoda sleeve

paillette   (pay-et′) (French, “speck” or “spangle”) Spangle made of metal or plastic, usually a round disk larger than a sequin. Used as trimming on evening clothes and handbags. painter’s cap   Lightweight, duck-billed, fabric cap made with a round, flat-topped crown. paisley   A pattern created from stylized flowers and swirling raindrop shapes. paisley shawl   A large rectangular or square piece of cloth featuring a teardrop design, traditionally printed on wool. Often, has coordinating borders around edge and a coordinating medallion pattern in the center.

pants   Clothing for the lower torso made to fit around each leg. May be any length and width; some have cuffs, and some do not. hip huggers

deck pants/knee pants pedal pushers/ clamdiggers/midcalf gaucho/calf capri pants/ankle or above the ankle full length/slacks paisley shawl

pant lengths

113

P: pantsuit to pasties pantsuit   A woman’s suit styled with pants instead of a skirt.

ankles. Three zip pockets are placed at side of leg, and another zip pocket on hip. paradigm shift  A fundamental change in approach or underlying assumptions. pareo   (pah-ray′-o) Rectangular piece of colorful printed cloth wrapped around the body. Usually worn by women as a coverup or skirt. Originated in Polynesia.

pantsuit

pantyhose   A one-piece skintight undergarment for women consisting of hosiery with a panty-style top. paper dress  Classification of dresses made of various types of disposable paper or nonwoven fabrics similar to paper. This fad peaked around 1968. Worn for parties and at the beach, some were hand-painted and very expensive; others were inexpensive and imprinted with funny gimmicks (e.g., Yellow Pages telephone book, a Heinz soup can, etc.). paper pattern  Garment pattern made in various sizes and sold by pattern companies such as Vogue, Butterick, McCall’s, and Simplicity to individuals for home sewing. paperbag waistline   A loose pleated or gathered waistline that looks like a scrunched paperbag when it is closed. It may be made by inserting a drawstring through a casing placed far enough below the top edge of the garment to create a small stand-up ruffle around the waist or by topstitching band at the waistline to hold the gathers or pleats and create the stand-up ruffle.

pareo

parka   A windproof jacket with a hood that is designed to be worn in cold weather. Often trimmed with real or ­synthetic fur.

parka

partial roll   A classification of collars characterized by a stand, typically at the back of the neck, that blends back to the neckline, allowing the collar to lay flat on the garment on the front; examples include shawl, notched, and convertible collars. partnership   Business entity whereby a company is owned by two or more persons; operation of partnerships is outlined in a written contract or articles of partnership. pashmina   (pash-mee′-nah) Fabric or garments made from fine-quality cashmere. passé/passé de mode   (pass-ay′) (French, “out of fashion,” “unfashionable”) Generally used in English simply as passé. passementerie   (pas-mahn′-tree) Trimmings, e.g., heavy embroideries, braid, tinsel, beads, lace, and gimp, used as edging.

paperbag waistline

parachute pants   Straight-legged pants with zipper (of about 6″ [15 cm]) from hem up leg to give tight fit at

114

pasties   1. Cups for the breasts that have no straps or back, fastened in place with adhesive. Also called posts. 2. Small decorative coverings that adhere over nipples, worn by dancers.

P: patch to peacock revolution patch   1. A means of mending or strengthening fabric by applying a piece of fabric to cover an area of a garment that may be worn, ripped, or soiled. Patches may also be designed into garments to provide extra reinforcement for the knees or elbows. 2. A piece of cloth, with a logo, sewn onto a garment to signify identification with an employer, a brand, or to mark an achievement. patch pocket  Pocket stitched on outside of garment, either made plain or with a flap. patchwork   A method of sewing small pieces of various colors and patterns together to form a fabric or quilt.

patchwork apparel

patent   Registration of an idea, product, or process with the US patent office so that it excludes others from the right to make, use, or sell an invention for a period of 17 years. A description of the invention is published and once the patent expires, it becomes part of the public domain. pattern   1. A 2D template of the pieces required to make a garment; they may be made of tissue paper or card stock, or stored on the computer as digital shapes. Patterns are then used to cut lengths of fabric into the shapes required for a particular garment design. 2. The regular arrangement of repeated elements such as line, color, or shapes. pattern and sample making services   Contract firms who develop patterns and samples for companies who choose not to have their own in-house sample studios.

patternmaker   A position responsible for developing and creating patterns for fashion apparel and accessories through flat pattern and/or draping methods manually or on the computer. Patternmakers may also be involved with grading and adjusting patterns for various sizes.

PCM   Acronym for phase change material.

PDM   Acronym for product data management.

PDS   Acronym for pattern design system.

pea jacket/pea coat  Adapted from US sailor’s hiplength, straight, double-breasted navy-blue wool coat with notched lapels, vertical slash pockets, and vent in back. Inspiration for coats designed by Yves Saint Laurent in Paris in 1960s and a classic coat style for men, women, and children.

pea coat

peace symbol  Circle or oval enclosing a vertical staff with two bars projecting at about a 60-degree angle down to left and right from center of staff. Introduced in 1960s by opponents of US involvement in Vietnam War. Often displayed on rings and medallions. peacock feather   Long, thin, dark feather with brilliantly marked “eye” in greenish-blue at the tip, from upper tail of peacock. Individual feathers became a fad of the hippies, carried in the hand, in the late 1960s.

peacock revolution   Refers to radical changes that took place in menswear, liberating them from the conventional business suit to clothing of a more relaxed, more creative, unconventional style. This revolution took place in the mid-1960s and its impact continues today.

pattern chart  A list often provided in a specification package or hanging on a manually made pattern that itemizes all of the pattern pieces in a set, including the interlining, lining, and contrast patterns. pattern design system (PDS)   A computer system used by patternmakers to create and store new garment (pattern) styles. pattern drafting  A process for making patterns for clothing that starts by taking measurements from a body that are then transferred to a coordinate grid. pattern grading   Applying incremental grade rules to a sample size production pattern to develop a set of pattern pieces for each of the sizes listed in the tech pack.

peacock revolution

115

P: peasant blouse to perfect competition peasant blouse  Folk-style woman’s blouse adapted from Eastern Europe. It is traditionally white with puffed sleeves; the sleeves and/or neckline may be embellished with embroidery borders. The neckline may be square or round and gathered into a bias band or made with elastic or drawstring; sometimes worn off the shoulder.

peasant blouse

pencil skirt  A narrow, slim-fitting skirt that falls to, or just below, the knee. pendant cuff  Style of cuff that hangs down from the sleeve.

pendant cuff

peasant skirt  Full gathered dirndl skirt, often with two or more tiers; may be trimmed with bands of embroidery.

peasant sleeve   A full loose sleeve gathered at the bottom with elastic or onto a band. The sleeve is often set into the garment using raglan seaming; may be either short or long.

pedal pushers  Below-the-knee, straight-cut, women’s pants, often cuffed.

peek-a-boo   Any part of a garment that has been cut out to reveal skin or underwear.

peer-to-peer sharing platforms (P2P)  An economic model-based activity of acquiring, providing, or sharing access to goods and services that is often facilitated by a community-based online platform.

pendulum swing  Refers to the periodic movement of fashion between extremes, e.g., fashionable lengths, tight- or loose-fitting silhouettes. penetration pricing   A pricing strategy in which the retailer tries to gain market share with prices below the expectation of the customer. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA)   A nonprofit organization devoted to animal rights. peplum   (pep′-lum) Extension of a bodice that comes below waistline, sometimes pleated, sometimes flared. Can be made in one piece with bodice, cut separately and joined to bodice by a seam, or attached to a belt.

pegged   adj. Describes apparel with fullness through the waist and hips that tapers to the hem; this silhouette can be found in skirts and pants.

peplum

per capita personal income  The wages, salaries, interest, dividends, and all other income received by the population as a whole, divided by the number of people in the population.

pegged hemline

perceived quality   The consumer’s opinion of the level of superiority of a product based on brand reputation, value, and the ability of the product to meet the expectations of the wearer.

peignoir   (pane′-war) Feminine type of robe made in a sheer or elaborate fabric intended for the bedroom; usually made with a matching nightgown, in which case it is called a peignoir set. pelt   Skin of an animal with the hair attached used for making fur garments and accessories.

116

perceived risk  A subjective evaluation of the adverse outcomes or consequences resulting from a particular action or behavior. peignoir set

perfect competition  Type of competition in business in which there are many producers and consumers of

P: perfecto jacket to pictogram similar products, so that price is determined by market demand. Also called pure competition.

PETA   Acronym for people for the ethical treatment of animals.

perfecto jacket   Black leather jacket, originating during World War II; worn by Marlon Brando in the 1954 film The Wild One, and subsequently became a symbol of rebellious youth and a part of mainstream fashion.

petal collar  Collar made of several irregularly shaped pieces that look like petals of a flower. petal hem   Hem that falls in rounded sections similar to petals of a flower. petal pants   See wrapped-leg pants. petal sleeve  Short sleeve curved at hem and overlapping to give a petal-shaped effect in front. Peter Pan collar  Small, flat collar with rounded ends in front. Worn originally by children, later adopted by women.

perfecto jacket

perforation   A hole or series of holes punched through fabric or leather. performance fabric  High-tech fabric developed for industrial, active sports, healthcare, or rugged outdoor usage, which are adapted for fashion and street apparel. performance feature   Functional characteristic related to the intended use of a garment. permanent press   adj. Fabric or garments that are treated with a finish that keeps them from wrinkling if washed and dried correctly. Also called durable press. Persian lamb   Curly lustrous fur that is usually black but occasionally brown or white. Quality is determined by the tightness of the “knuckle” curl and formation of interesting patterns called “flowers.” Best quality comes from Bokara, Russia, from Karakul sheep. Others come from Afghanistan, southwestern Africa, and Iran. Popular for coats and trimmings. Durability is high. personal flotation device (PFD)   See flotation vest. personal income   The total or gross amount of income received from all sources by the population as a whole. It consists of wages, salaries, interest, dividends, and all other income for everyone in the country. personal protection equipment  Clothing and accessories designed and worn to protect a worker from injury or illness. personal selling   Process by which (1) a sales representative for the fashion brand meets and negotiates with a retail buyer, and (2) retail sales associates or representatives for fashion brands meet and/or communicate with the ultimate consumer. personal shopper   A retail store employee in an upscale store who works with individual customers to help them select apparel. personalized garments   Apparel items that are customized with the addition of the purchaser’s name or initials.

Peter Pan collar

petersham   Strip of firmly woven ribbon, similar to grosgrain, placed in the interior of a woman’s bodice that fastened around her waist in order to keep the bodice from shifting while it was worn. Also used on millinery to stay the fit of the hat. petite   Size range for women who are below average height—usually 5�4� or less and sized from 0 to 16. petticoat   Undergarment for a woman or girl similar to a slip, but starting at the waist. Depending on the overgarment, it may be full or narrow, lace-trimmed or tailored, and long or short. phase change material (PCM)   Substance that stores, releases, and absorbs heat as it oscillates between solid and liquid form. Applied to textiles via microencapsulation to create a built-in temperature control system. pheasant feather  1. Long, stiff tail feather from the domestic game bird, with striated markings of orange, black, and brown. 2. Small, soft body feathers of the same bird, sometimes used to cover hats or hatbands. picking   Process of selecting the appropriate assortment of merchandise to fill a specific retailer’s or customer’s order. picot   (pee′-ko) 1. A row of small loops woven along selvage of ribbon or a part of the edge design on lace. 2. Machine-made edge on fabrics produced by cutting through center of hemstitching, each edge becoming a picot edge. picot hem   A hem made with a two-needle, double chain stitch machine that forms a fagotted insertion that is cut apart, resulting in a picot edge; used on lingerie and infants’ garments. pictogram   Illustrations of body forms marked to indicate where specific body measurements should be taken. 117

P: picture hat to plain weave picture hat  Hat with large brim framing the face, frequently made of straw. piece dyeing   Fabric dyed after weaving but before garment manufacturing.

pinafore   Sleeveless garment, tied or buttoned in the back like an apron, worn over dress by women and children.

piece goods   Fabric sold by the yard. Also called yard goods. piece-rate wage  Method of compensation whereby each production operator’s overall pay is based on individual productivity in manufacturing product components. piecework   A production method in which each operator sews only a section of the garment to speed the production process. Also called section work. piercing   A form of body modification where a piece of jewelry is inserted into an opening that has been punctured, pierced, or cut into the skin. Piercing is popular on the ear lobes, nose, tongue, and belly button. pigment   A substance that imparts color to another substance. Color is perceived when light strikes a surface that contains pigment. The pigments of a surface cause some wavelengths to be absorbed and others to be reflected, thus giving the surface its color. pigment dye   A class of dye that sits on top of the textile fiber with the assistance of binding agents; may fade over time, leaving a very soft hand and worn-in look. pigskin   Leather made from the skin of the pig, which has groups of three tiny holes forming a distinctive pattern caused by removing the bristles. pile weave   Fabric woven with an additional set of yarns (warp or filling) in the base and loops on the surface of the fabric that can be cut or remain intact (e.g., velvet, terry cloth). pilgrim collar  Large round collar extending to the shoulder seams at sides and ending in two long points at center front. pillbox hat   Classic, round, brimless hat that can be worn forward or on the back of the head.

pillbox hat

pin holes   Punctures along the selvedge of fabric. pin tuck  A single narrow fold or series of repeating parallel folds that are evenly spaced and stitched down within a garment section. Pin tucks may also be released at a certain point to add fullness. 118

pinafore

pinafore swimsuit  Bikini swimsuit with an extra pinafore that fits tightly over bust and has a free-hanging skirt curving from sides up to center back, revealing the bikini pants underneath. Also called apron swimsuit. pince-nez   (pants-nay′) Eyeglasses without ear pieces, kept in place by spring gripping the bridge of the nose. piping   A folded piece of bias binding. Piping may be inserted between two layers of fabric before stitching to create a decorative effect as, for example, in piped seams. Piped seams are similar to corded seams but have a flat rather than a rounded edge. piqué   A type of weave, normally used with cotton, characterized by raised parallel cords or geometric designs woven into the fabric. piracy   Stealing of an idea for an idea for a garment and making a copy that is marketed/merchandised as authentic. Punishable as a crime in France, where dress designs are protected by the French government, it is not considered a crime in the United States unless the design is patented. placket   A finished opening with a garment area that allows for the wearer to easily put the garment on or remove it.

placket

plaid   A fabric woven of differently colored yarns in a cross-barred pattern. The impact of a plaid pattern may also be achieved through printed-on woven or knit fabrics. plain weave  Woven textiles with warp and weft yarns arranged so that they intersect singly with each other.

P: planned obsolescence to polo coat planned obsolescence   The idea that products are designed to wear out so that consumers are pushed back into the marketplace to purchase replacements or substitutions. This is promoted by the fashion system and by fast fashion. planogram   A computer-generated floor plan that shows the selling floor with merchandise in the best position. platform shoe   Shoe with thick sole so that the wearer appears taller.

pockets

poet’s shirt  A loose-fitting blouse with full bishop sleeves with a lace-up V-neck closure designed to pull over the head; may have large ruffles at the wrist and/ or down the front.

platform shoe

plating   The knitting of two or more yarns simultaneously. pleather   A slang term for faux leather made from plastic. A polyurethane or PVC film is applied to a woven or knit base fabric. Pleather is less expensive and lighter in weight than leather; those made with polyurethane can be dry cleaned and are porous, allowing them to breathe when used in apparel applications. pleat   1. n. Fold of fabric usually pressed flat but sometimes left unpressed and other times stitched down at the top of the garment to improve the way the pleat falls. In synthetic fabrics, pleats may be put in permanently with a heat-setting process. 2. v. To set in folds. 3. adj. “pleated” describes apparel that utilizes pleats in its construction. PLM   Acronym for product life cycle management. plunging neckline   Neckline made with low V in center front, sometimes extending to the waist or below. Fashionable for extreme styles in the 1960s and continued in popularity since. plus size  Size in women’s apparel that is at the upper range of sizes manufactured. Generally, retailers place sizes 14 and above in this category. ply   Thin uniform yarns that can be twisted wrapped, entangled, or chemically bound together to make stronger yarns. Ply of very different textures can be spun together to make novelty yarns. pocket   Extra fabric attached to the inside or outside of a garment to form a pouch with a top or side opening. Pockets play both decorative and functional roles in garment design. pocket square   A rectangular piece of fabric tucked into a breast pocket of a jacket for visual appeal.

poet’s shirt

point of emphasis   See focal point. point of measure (POM)   Guide that shows where garments should be measured for size specifications. point-of-sale (POS)   Transactional data collected through the use of software, scanners, and universal product codes (UPCs) regarding the style, size, and color of the products purchased by individual consumers. It also helps to track how purchases are paid for (by cash or credit card), the average price at which any given product sells, key selling seasons, and returns. point-of-purchase display  Printed or digital displays that are placed near advertised items to call the customer’s attention to particular brands or special offers. They are located where customers make purchasing decisions. polarized sunglasses   Sunglasses with lenses that polarize light, especially effective in cutting down glare. Popular with those engaged in outdoor sports such as fishing and hunting. polka dot  Pattern created from repetitive use of circles. polo coat  A tailored overcoat, doubleor single-breasted, made of camel’s hair, vicuña, or camel-colored wool, with notched collar and tied with a sash.

polo coat

119

P: polo shirt to postproduction costing polo shirt   A classic knitted shirt style with placket neckline and collar, usually with short sleeves.

polo shirt

polyester   Generic fiber name for manufactured fibers made from acids and alcohols derived from petroleum. polyvinyl chloride   A thermoplastic. In fashion it is generally used as a fabric coating to make things waterproof and resistant to soil. It is a popular vegan substitute for leather. It can be produced in bright intense hues and formed into tight-fitting garments. It is very durable, however, it is not particularly breathable. Also called vinyl. POM   Acronym for point of measure. poncho   A blanket-like garment with a slit in the middle for the head, originating in South America. Frequently fringed around the edges.

pop culture/popular culture  Events, activities, and trends derived from advertising, magazines, movies, television, music, and other media, that serve as a source of inspiration for consumer purchasing. Pop culture is often popularized by celebrities and influencers. pop-up store   A retail store that is opened temporarily to test demand for new product, offer storefront space for an online merchant, offer seasonal product, or to take advantage of a market for fad merchandise. Temporary retail spaces that typically appear in vacant space, drawing crowds and offering unique merchandise, only to disappear or morph into something else weeks or up to a year later. port of entry   Location in the United States with customs offices through which import of goods is authorized. portal   The landing page for a website or intranet network from which users are directed to other types of information. Also called web portal. portfolio   1. A sampling of work done by an artist or designer used to illustrate their skills to a potential employer. A fashion portfolio might include mood or concept boards, illustrations with color chips and fabric swatches, embellishment designs, and photographs of finished garments or collections. 2. A container used to hold and organize samples of an artist or designer’s work. portrait collar  An open V-necked collar with lapels wide enough to extend to the top of the sleeve, generally notched in the front and rounded in back.

poodle skirt poncho

poodle skirt   A wide felt circle skirt in a solid color with an appliqué. poor-boy sweater  Ribbed, knit sweater made with high, round neck or turtleneck.

portrait collar

POS   Acronym for point-of-sale. positioning   A term that refers to how a garment relates to others like it in the marketplace in terms of style, complexity of design, fabric, quality, and price. postconsumer textile waste  Textile waste created when apparel and household textiles are disposed of by the ultimate consumer.

poor-boy sweater

120

postproduction costing  A process used by wholesalers to capture and summarize detailed historical information about successful products and ones that caused challenges that improved or damaged the profit and loss statement.

P: pouf silhouette to product development pouf silhouette  A wide, puffy skirt or sleeve with a light, airy appearance, made in both long and short styles, often constructed by gathering the bottom edge, turning it up and stitching it to a lining. power suit/power dressing  Used in the late 1980s and 1990s for a man’s or woman’s tailored suit worn for business. prairie skirt  Flared skirt, gathered at the waistband with one or two ruffles at the hem, made in plain or calico-patterned fabrics. Der. Adapted from skirts worn by women traveling west on the wagon trains. prayer veil  Small, triangular, lace veil worn instead of hat for church services. pre-consumer textile waste   Fabric that remains after garment cutting, and other fabric scraps created during the manufacturing process of textile products. predatory pricing  Illegal pricing of a product below cost, the intent being to drive out any competition. Selling goods at a loss at the end of season to clear out old merchandise is not considered predatory pricing. predictive analytics  A type of forecasting that uses a variety of data points from a wide variety of sources, such as retail, social media, cultural events, politics, or the economy, and processes this data through models to predict future behaviors of consumers.

pressed open   See busted. prestige pricing  Pricing method based on the assumption that customers are willing to pay a higher price for products that are perceived to be special in terms of aesthetics, name recognition, quality, value, or service. prêt-à-porter   (preht-ah-por-TAY) (French) Ready-towear; in the UK, this merchandise is called “off-the-peg”; in Italy, it is called moda pronto. price   The amount of money that has to be paid in order to purchase a product or service. Prices are generally calculated to cover costs and bring in a profit. price point/price zone  The range of prices, lowest to highest, at which competitive products are offered in the marketplace. primary colors   A set of colorants or colored lights that can be mixed in varying amounts to produce a gamut of colors.  The primary colors are different depending on whether you are working with light, transparent colorants, opaque pigments, or some other medium. primary suppliers  Producers of fibers, textile fabrics, finished leathers, and furs. princess style  A vertical seam that intersects the bust apex and extends to the shoulder or armhole.

preferential treatment  Favoritism, partiality, prejudice, inequity, discrimination, or nepotism in the workplace, or anywhere within an organization’s business structure. preliminary cost   A cost developed before a sample has been made using historical cost information, materials vendor information, and current labor, shipping, and overhead costs. Also called cost estimate. preliminary cost estimate (pre-cost)  A process used by wholesalers to establish possible costs for the purpose of line planning and getting a quotation from a vendor during sampling. Première Vision   An important trade show for color and textile forecasters held in Paris. premium   A gift-with-purchase offered by a manufacturer to promote a product. prepack   An assortment of merchandise in certain quantities of sizes and/or colors of one or more styles chosen according to a manufacturer’s or retailer’s direction. preppy   adj. Descriptive of a style of dress inspired by clothing worn by students at private colleges or universities. preproduction sample   A garment sample submitted to the brand for approval before production begins. press release  Newsworthy information supplied by a company to the press to increase the likelihood of publicity.

princess-style dress

printing   The application of a design or pattern to a fabric using dyes or pigments applied in limited areas. private label  Merchandise that meets standards specified by a retail firm and belongs to it exclusively. Primarily used to ensure consistent quality of products as well as to meet price competition. process innovation  The implementation of new or improved production or delivery methods, including changes in techniques, equipment, and/or software. product data management (PDM)  Computer system that joins computer to computer, and also people to people by way of email. This speeds up the product development cycle and reduces the time it takes to bring products to market. product development  The strategic, creative, technical, production, and distribution planning of goods. Such

121

P: product drops to proportion goods should have a perceived value for a well-defined consumer group, and must be made to reach market when consumers are ready to buy. product drops  The release of limited-edition runs of 5–15 new products across social media and websites without advance notice. In-the-know consumers flock to these events to buy and then spread the news via social media. The strategy creates a sense of urgency and scarcity. product environmental footprint  A multi-indicator summary of the product’s environmental impact. product life cycle   The stages of a product from its inception, manufacturing, retail distribution, purchase or acquisition by a consumer, and its use and eventual disposition and disposal. product life cycle management (PLM)  A strategic system that tracks information regarding products through their design, development, manufacturing, and distribution to increase efficiency, yield cost savings, and optimize lead times and speed to market. product life cycle manager  A position that oversees the development and integration of computer systems across a fashion company’s supply chain, identifies potential issues in the supply chain, and works with supply chain divisions to create more effective and timely supply chains. product line   The assortment of product categories that a business offers for sale. product manager   See specification manager. product recall  The action of removing defective products from the distribution chain and retrieving them from consumers to avoid harm to the customer due to a serious safety hazard. product specifications  Standards for the components of a completed product such as size and fit, garment assembly, finishing, labeling, packaging, quality, and performance. product sustainability manager  A position that is part of a corporate social responsibility team responsible for overseeing priorities and initiatives related to environmental and social sustainability in fashion, including product design, development, manufacturing, and distribution/retailing. Responsibilities may include developing a preferred materials strategy and/or a fashion brand retailer’s take-back program. production cost  A cost based on vendor’s quotation and the updated tech pack and sourcing information. production cutting   A system of cutting large numbers of apparel pieces by laying fabric open across its entire width and for a specified length, then stacking fabric in multiple layers with the marker (see marker) resting on the top. Cutting is done either by computer or by using hand-cutting machines.

122

production marker   See marker. production patterns   A set of graded patterns ready for marker making. Manual patterns are cut in oaktag (see oaktag). Electronic patterns are images on a screen. production planning  Function that links merchandising decisions with design and technical decisions in order to plan the activities related to making that product. production sample  Garment that reflects the exact product expected to come off a production line. The final stage before the product goes into full production. production spec   Instructions for producing quantities of a product in the manufacturing environment, rather than an individual prototype garment. production system   Resources and sequencing of workflow in a factory required to assemble a garment from beginning to end. production yardage  The amount of fabric needed to fulfill a production order, as opposed to yardage purchase to work up into a sample garment or product. profit   The financial benefit attained when revenue taken in from a business activity exceeds the expenses, costs, and taxes involved in sustaining the activity. profit and loss statement  A record that summarizes the revenues, costs, and expenses for a specific period of time. Also called income statement. progressive bundle system   A method of garment factory organization in which small parts are completed first, then attached to larger sections and finally assembled into a whole garment. Bundles are moved manually according to the sequential order of machines used to complete the garment. promotional discount  An amount deducted from the list price by the wholesaler during negotiation for sale of bulk goods to the retailer; the retailer offers to bear the cost of promoting the wholesaler’s brand. promotional markdown   Temporary reduction in retail price when an item is first marketed to the public. promotional orders  Purchases from vendors at lower than usual prices that can be sold at lower prices to the customer. promotional pricing   Offering apparel at reduced prices for a temporary period of time. prophetic style   Particularly interesting new style that is still in the introductory phase of its fashion cycle. proportion   The relationship or scale of all of a garment or ensemble’s parts to each other and to the body as a whole. Horizontal lines, such as yoke and waistline seams or jacket and top edges, divide a garment or ensemble into sections. The ancient Greeks believed that ratios of 2:3, 3:5, and 5:8 were the most pleasing to the eye (see also golden mean).

P: proportional pattern grading to purse proportional pattern grading  Pattern pieces for a particular style are increased or decreased to create a new size, while keeping the same intended fit, shape, and proportion of the original base pattern. proprietary data  Any set of statistics, information, or documentation which is controlled solely by a company or brand. Typically, it is generated internally, giving the company or brand ownership. If it in regard to a product it may be eligible for copyright, trade dress, or even patent protection. protein fibers  Natural fibers from animals, such as alpaca, angora, camel’s hair, cashmere, mohair, silk, vicuña, and wool. prototype   The sample garment/product for a new style in the company’s base size, made in the intended fashion fabric/material or a facsimile fabric/material. Prototypes can also be made and evaluated in a virtual environment.

style. Sometimes made with open toe and/or open heel in slingback shoe. A classic style for women for business and dress-up. punk   adj. Descriptive of fashion originating in London in the late 1970s, which served as both a demand for attention and a protest against the establishment by working-class teenagers, who were largely unemployed. The style was characterized by pasty white makeup, blackened eyes, and much lipstick; hair was cut short and dyed or painted bright colors. Clothing included black leather jackets, stud-decorated jeans, and T-shirts printed with vulgar messages or pornographic pictures. Clothing was torn and soiled, held together by safety pins. Punk women wore hot pants, skirts with side slits, tight sweaters, and spike-heeled sandals.

psychedelic   A modern abstract style of pattern originating in the 1960s, marked by bright acid colors and outlandish motifs associated with the state of consciousness when taking mind-altering drugs. psychographics   The study of the social and psychological factors that constitute consumers’ lifestyles, including reference groups, life stage, activities, personality, attitudes, level of class consciousness, preferences, buying habits, and motivation. psychological obsolescence   Obsolescence created because the fashion no longer represents the user’s social role and/or self-image. publicly held corporation   Type of corporation whereby stock has been issued for public purchase and at least some of the shares of stock are owned by the general public. puff/puffed sleeve   Short sleeve, gathered either at the armhole or at the cuff band or both, producing a rounded shape.

punk style

purchase order  An official document drawn up by the brand for the factory or manufacturer, which states how many garments of which color and size need to be made. It also specifies the price, delivery location, and delivery date. purchasing power   The value of the dollar as it relates to the amount of goods or services it will buy. A decline in purchasing power is caused by inflation. pure competition   See perfect competition.

puff or puffed sleeve

pullover   Any knit shirt or sweater that is put on by pulling the garment over the head. pump   Women’s slipon shoe with a low-cut, rounded, or V-shaped throat, with a kitten heel or higher. Toes vary from rounded to pointed depending on the current

shank

counter collar

vamp tip

heel seat heel breast heel lift

woman’s pump with stiletto heel

pure-play   Retailer that is exclusively e-commerce. puritan collar  Square-cut, wide, flat, white collar that extends to the shoulder. Also called Quaker collar. purpose-driven business model   A strategy whereby a business or brand takes action on something bigger than its products and services. B Corporation™ certification is an example. purse   A small pouch similar to a wallet, used to hold money and credit cards. also called a bag. 123

P: push-up bra to pyramid plan push-up bra  Bra with a low-cut front that creates the appearance of increased cleavage through the use of padding that pushes the breasts upwards and inwards. PVC   Acronym for polyvinyl chloride. pyramid coat   Tent-shaped woman’s coat silhouette. pyramid plan   A strategy for line and assortment planning where the lowest and broadest level of the pyramid

124

is made up of basic styles—core items that carry little risk and can be ordered in large quantities and assortments. The middle level of the pyramid focuses on product that interprets current fashion trends for their core customer; the top level of the pyramid consists of fashion-forward or high-tech items that help to create an image and expose the customer to new trends in fashion and technology.

Q: QA to quota quality assurance director  A person who oversees the fashion company’s quality assurance and quality control programs across the company’s supply chain. Works directly with vendors, factories, and third-party auditing/inspection services in assuring products meet quality standards set by the company and customer expectations. quality control  Inspection of textiles, materials, and/ or finished goods to assure that they meet specified standards. quantitative data  Data that are numerical in nature and analyzed through statistical techniques.

QA   Acronym for quality assurance. qiviut   (kay′-vee-ut) Underwool of the domesticated musk ox. Spun into yarn, this fine, soft fiber is knitted into a variety of apparel by Eskimo women in Alaska. Sold to tourists and by mail order. QR   Acronym for Quick Response. QR code   Acronym for Quick Response code. Quaker collar   See puritan collar. qualitative data   Data that are nonnumerical in nature (words, images) and analyzed through identifying patterns or emergent themes. qualitative research  Research that relies on methodologies such as observation and case studies in which experiences are recorded as a narrative to describe observed behaviors within the context of environmental factors. quality assurance (QA)  A fashion company’s overall policies and systems for assuring their desired level of quality across the supply chain, focusing on prevention of defects rather than only the detection of defects.

quantitative research   Research that involves objective methodology in which data are collected about a sample population and analyzed to generalize behavioral patterns. quantity discount  An amount deducted from the list price by the wholesaler during negotiation for sale of bulk goods to the retailer; the retailer commits to large orders that allow the wholesaler to offer economies of scale and efficiency to vendors. Quick Response (QR)  Phrase coined for use in the American textile industry to describe streamlining of manufacture and delivery of apparel to retailers. A key component of Quick Response is electronic data interchange. Quick Response code (QRC)  A two-dimensional bar code designed to have its contents read at high speeds by QR scanners and smart phones. quilting   The technique of joining together layers of fabric using hand or machine stitching, sometimes with batting or other filling in between. quota   A system in which a nation limits the quantity of products that can be imported by defined categories in a given time period.

125

126

R: racer-back to reclaimed fibers rain or shine coat  Fabric coat treated with a waterrepellent finish so that it can be worn as an all-purpose coat.

raincoat   Clothing designed to be worn in rainy weather. Made of waterproof material or given a special surface finish to make it water-repellent. rainwear   Clothing and accessories that are waterproofed or water-repellent. rajah jacket   1. Men: Similar to Nehru jacket (see Nehru jacket/Nehru coat). 2. Women: Usually a tunic-length jacket, with standing collar that is usually worn with pants. Der. Shortened form of “maharajah.”

racer-back   A style of garment characterized by a T-strap down the center back allowing for maximum movement of the back and arms without strap slippage.

ramie   Strong, soft, lustrous fiber, somewhat similar to linen, from the inner bark of the ramie plant.

random layout   A pattern that features motifs in a scattered or seemingly random arrangement where they are placed in all directions. Also called allover layout, tossed layout. range plan  A table of information listing the types of garments, quantity, and their prices to be planned and designed for a fashion collection. It is created by the merchandise team and is compiled from sales history, financial targets, local market feedback and trend information. More recently predictive analytics may be considered as well. also known as an assortment plan. RAPEX   Acronym for Rapid Exchange of Information System.

racer back

radio frequency identification (RFID)   Electronic tags used for storing data; each includes a unique serial number that allows the tracking of products, cartons, containers, and individual items as they move through the supply chain. They hold more data than bar codes and can be read many times faster. rag business/rag trade   Slang used to refer to apparel industry (see apparel industry). raglan sleeve  Sleeve that extends to neckline, set in by seams slanting from underarm front and back. Used since mid-1850s. A variation is made with an additional seam down outside of arm called a three-seamed raglan. See also saddle sleeve.

Rapid Exchange of Information System (RAPEX)   The European Union’s rapid alert system for consumer product safety. raw edges   Unfinished frayed ends of fabric at hemlines or seams in a garment.

raw materials   Fibers, yarns, and unfinished fabrics.

rayon   Regenerated cellulose yarn made from wood pulp. It has the same molecular structure as cellulose fiber. RBO   Acronym for resident buying office.

REACH   European community regulation that stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of CHemical substances, which regulates the safe use of chemicals and publishes a directive for restricted substances. reactive dye   A class of colorfast dye that forms a chemical bond with hydroxyl groups in the textile fibers.

ready-to-wear (RTW)   Fashion merchandise made with mass production techniques using standardized sizing. Also called off-the-rack. recession   A low point in a business cycle when money and credit become scarce and unemployment is high.

raglan sleeve

reclaimed fibers   Fibers generated from collecting preconsumer textile waste (e.g., fabric scraps and cuttings

127

R: recommendation engine to relative advantage left from the cutting and sewing processes) and processing them to create a new fiber.

reengineered fibers  The process of restructuring a used or discarded fiber into a new more usable form.

recommendation engine  A digital marketing tool that filters a consumer’s browsing information using machine-learning algorithms that predict a given customer’s preferences. It addresses the challenge of information overload by recommending products that a particular customer is likely to like, thereby saving the customer browsing time and improving customer engagement and retention.

reflective   The quality of bouncing light back into space after it hits a surface.

recommendations   A strategy based on encouraging a satisfied customer to promote and advocate for a product. Consumers often feel that another customer’s feedback is more trustworthy than the brand’s own marketing. re-commerce   Reintroducing usable fashion products into the marketplace through consignment stores, thrift shops, online auction sites, and other retail distribution methods for previously owned products. recruitment fee   Fee paid by individuals to secure work; associated with bonded labor if the worker is forced to work to pay off the fees. recycle   Process by which waste materials are made suitable for reuse. recycled manufactured fiber  Fiber produced from postconsumer recycled products. One example is polyester made from recycled soda bottles. recycled wool  Under the amendments of 1980 to the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939: (1) wool fiber that was pulled apart from yarn or fabric that was never used by the ultimate consumer or (2) wool fiber from yarn, fabric, or products used by consumers. This term replaced the terms “reclaimed wool,” “reused wool,” and “reprocessed wool.” Only wool that has never been used before can be called wool, new wool, or virgin wool. redingote   (red′-in-gote) A man’s or woman’s outerwear coat with a fitted top and full skirt resembling a frock coat or English riding coat. reduction   A lowering of the retail price of merchandise to encourage its sale so that new goods can replace older items. Markdown, markup, cancellation, and discount are all types of reduction used by retailers. reefer   A single- or double-breasted coat or jacket with a tailored collar worn by men or women.

refracted light   When light is bent, as in the case of hitting a transparent surface. refurbishment   The process of cleaning and restoring the appearance of a garment. regalia   (re-gale′-yah) Clothing established by custom for a particular social or professional rank, position, or organization, e.g., academic processions, royalty. Regency coat   Double-breasted coat for man or woman made with wide lapels and high-rolled Regency collar (see Regency collar). Sometimes has large cuffs. Man’s coat has nipped waist and deep vent in back. Regency collar   Similar to Napoleonic collar (see Napoleonic collar), but smaller in size. regenerated cellulosic fiber   Short cellulose fibers left on cotton seeds after the staple  cotton  is removed by ginning. Linters are used to make coarse yarns and cellulose products. regenerated fiber   See manufactured fiber. regional mall  A shopping center with a trading area of at least a five-mile radius. It usually contains at least two anchor department stores, as well as many specialty stores and a food court or restaurants. regional market   A market that serves US retailers in a geographical region. Examples include Atlanta, Dallas, and Los Angeles. regionalized production   A sourcing strategy based on producing product closer to where it will be sold in order to lower shipping costs, shorten lead times, right-size production orders, and ultimately increase full-price sell-through. registered number (RN)  A number issued by the US Federal Trade Commission for the purpose of identifying US manufacturers, importers, or distributors of apparel products. registration   The precise alignment of colors in a multicolored pattern. regular pricing  Prices normally charged for products; prices that have not been permanently marked down or discounted for a promotion. relational marketing  A marketing strategy based on building a learning relationship with customers, based on an interactive connection that encourages collaboration between a company and its customers on how to meet consumers’ needs.

reefer

128

relative advantage   The perception that an innovation is more satisfactory than items that already exist in the same class of products.

R: reliability to return plan reliability   (of information) The trustworthiness of information as measured by the credibility of the source. remnant   Short length of fabric remaining after yardage has been cut off a bolt or roll of fabric; these pieces are typically sold at a special price. Also called mill ends. remote display  Product display not located in the actual store but placed in a location where it can alert potential customers to the store and its merchandise. renewable resource  Resource of economic value that can be replaced or replenished naturally over time or is always available. rental program  A business model where a firm allows customers to rent one or more pieces of clothing or accessory items for either a set or unlimited period of time, depending on the rules of the program. The strategy attempts to keep usable apparel circulating longer, with the goal of making the industry more sustainable. reorders   Orders for additional quantities of a product previously purchased by the retailer. repeat   The process of adapting a pattern to the printing tools of the industry so it will print continuously along the length and width of the fabric. replenishment   Reordering of merchandise. Automatic replenishment is the automatic reordering of merchandise. reprocessed wool   See recycled wool. reproducible   When testing is performed on the same material or garment and the data collected is consistent. repurpose   Process of using waste material/items again but with new purposes. resale   Selling merchandise a second time; resale retailers include re-commerce, consignment, and charity/ thrift stores. reshoring   Sourcing strategy of moving production back to the domestic market. resident buying office (RBO)   An organization with offices at the market that offer consultation services and procure merchandise for retailers. resilience   The ability of a fabric to spring back from squeezing or twisting. resist printing   A fabric-printing method in which a dyeresistant substance is applied to certain specified areas of the material prior to immersion in a dye bath and subsequently removed, so as to permit the original hue to act as a pattern against the colored ground. restricted substance list   A list of chemicals that are restricted in consumer products. Lists may be compiled in response to governmental regulations or laws, they may be developed by a brand as a standard to which it holds its supply chain.

retail buyer  A person responsible for translating the brand vision of a fashion retailer to product assortment for all channels, brands, and sizes. The retail buyer works closely with a retail planner to develop merchandise plans and open-to-buy within an assortment; for multibrand retailers, the retail buyer oversees and conducts negotiations with external brands. retail event manager  A person who develops and produces a variety of events that further the retailer’s marketing efforts and customer engagement. Responsibilities include budgeting, scheduling, producing, and managing marketing events. retail level  The ultimate distribution-level outlets for fashion goods directly to the consumer. retail overcapacity   A retailer that has more brick-andmortar stores than required for the current economic climate. This is especially relevant as more and more sales are transacted digitally. retail planner   A position responsible for financial planning for merchandise assortments. The retail planner works closely with the retail buyer to develop merchandise plans and open-to-buy within an assortment. retail price   The price for which products are sold to the final consumer. retail store brand   The name of a chain that is used as the exclusive label of most of the items in the store or catalog. retail store manager  A person who plans and coordinates the day-to-day operations of a fashion retail store, including store policies, personnel and staffing, inventory management, budgeting, maintaining financial records, and merchandise promotion. Retail store managers often oversee a team of department managers (also referred to as team leaders), retail sales associates, and visual merchandisers. retail visual merchandiser  A position responsible for the design, planning, and execution of displays and other sales promotion visuals, such as those in windows and interiors of fashion retail stores. retailer   A company that sells merchandise and associated services to the ultimate consumer. retailing   Activities of companies in selling merchandise and associated services to the ultimate consumer. retro   adj. Descriptive of a return to the fashion look of earlier decades (abbreviated use of the word “retrospective”). Used when fashions from past are updated and used as current styles. Sometimes the date is attached (e.g., retro-thirties, retro-forties, retro-fifties). return on investment (ROI)   Calculated as (net profit/ cost of investment) x 100. return plan   Processes a fashion brand company uses for merchandise returned to them by consumers. 129

R: returns and allowances to rolled collar returns and allowances  Money lost when a product is marked down after a return or to resolve a customer complaint.

riding coat  Tailored, fitted jacket worn for horseback riding; the cut is full below the waist to accommodate a riding posture.

returns to vendor (RTV)   Return of goods to a manufacturer by a retailer. revers   (reh-veerz′) Another name for lapels, specifically the facing of the lapels, which fold back to show the reverse side of the collar and lapels. reverse engineering  Dismantling a product to determine how it was designed and constructed. May be used on a competitor’s product to gain competitive advantage. reversible   A garment that can be worn right side out or inside out to show off a different fabric or different sides of the same fabric. Reversible garments give multiple looks while taking up less space, making them more sustainable and great for travel. Reykjavik sweater   See Icelandic sweater. RFID   Acronym for radio-frequency identification. rhumba/rumba dress   Dress worn for Latin dancing with a close-fitting bodice through the hip and a skirt that shows a lot of leg. The hem is often asymmetric with a mass of circular-cut ruffles.

riding coat

right-hand twill  Woven twill fabric having diagonal lines that extend from the lower left to the upper right. rimless glasses   Lenses attached to metal nose piece and earpieces but not outlined by a frame.

rise   Distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants; e.g., hip-hugger pants have a low rise.

risk management  The identification of potential risks, analyzing those risks, and taking precautionary, preemptive steps to avoid or minimize said risks. RN   Acronym for registered number.

robe   1. A long, flowing outer garment used for ceremonial occasions or as a symbol of office or profession. 2. A loose garment (such as a bathrobe) for informal wear, especially at home.

rhumba dress

rhythm   The natural movement of the eye through the related elements of a garment. Rhythm can be achieved by strong silhouette lines; through the use of color, line, or shape; or through the use of repetition, radiation, or gradation. ribbing   Wales or columns of knit stitches alternated with wales or columns of purl stitches, forming a stretchy knit fabric that is ideal for trims on knit or woven garments at the waist, neck, and wrists. ribbon   A long, narrow strip of silk, cotton, or rayon woven with selvages on both sides, used mainly for trimming. riding boot   A boot coming to below the knee and made of high-quality leather. May have bootstraps at top for ease in dressing. riding breeches   See jodhpurs.

130

bathrobe

roll line   The fold line where the collar fall turns over the stand. roll neck   A neckline used on sweaters that takes advantage of the tendency of a jersey knit to roll onto itself. May also be a design feature on cuffs and hems of knit garments when ribbing is not desired as a finish. roll/roll-up sleeve   Sleeve, approximately elbow length, finished only with a narrow hem, designed to be folded—or rolled up—at least twice in lieu of a cuff. rolled collar   A category of collar that extends up from the point of attachment to

roll-up cuff

R: rolled hem to Russian braid the neckline of a garment before folding over. Any collar that has a roll to it making it stand up on neck, as differentiated from a flat collar that has no roll and lies flat at the base of neck. rolled hem   A narrow hem finish where the raw edge of the material is fed through an attachment where it is folded and stitched. Alternatively, a handmade hem used on sheer and delicate fabrics. First rolled between the fingers, then sewn with tiny stitches. roller printing   A method of printing directly onto fabric or other surfaces using a separate steel cylinder with an outer layer of copper in which the design has been etched, one for each color. roller skate   Boots or metal frames that attach to shoes fitted with four small wheels for gliding along hard surfaces. romper   A one-piece garment consisting of a top and shorts joined at the waist for women or children.

ruff   A stiffly starched collar made of fluted, gathered, or pleated fabric of varying widths that fits snugly around the neck and projects outward from there.

ruff

ruffle   Strip of cloth, lace, or ribbon gathered along one edge or cut in a curve to produce a ripple. Used to trim neckline, wrist, or hem of apparel. See also flounce. rugby shirt  A striped knit shirt with a button placket neckline similar to a polo shirt, and white woven collar.

ROI   Acronym for return on investment. ropy hem   Skewed or twisted fabric within the hem of a garment. rotary screen printing   A method of printing in which a blocking stencil is transferred to mesh, making certain areas of the mesh impermeable. The screen is loaded into the printer and printing paste is pushed through the screen and onto the fabric or other substrate. One screen is required for each color in the design. This method is faster than engraved roller machines and easier to set up because computer-aided design techniques can be used. royalty fee   A legally binding payment made to an individual or firm for the ongoing use of owned or originally created assets, including copyrighted works, trademarks, franchises, and natural resources. Payment is generally based on a percentage of sales earned through the royalty agreement. RTV   Acronym for returns to vendor. RTW   Acronym for ready-to-wear. rub-off   Also called trace-off. ruching   (roosh′-ing) 1. Trimming made by gathering or pleating a strip of lace, ribbon, net, or fabric so that it ruffles on both sides, with stitching through the center. 2. A controlled predetermined amount of fullness that is gathered and released to form ripples.

ruching

rugby shirt

rugby shorts   Thigh-length shorts cut for unrestricted leg movement with elastic waistband, inner drawstring, and double-stitched side pockets. run resistant   In hosiery and knits, stitches with locked or displaced loops that inhibit runs but do not prevent them. running shoe   Sport shoe with crepe or rubber sole, and upper made of two or three colors of contrasting leather or fabric. Russian blouse   See Zhivago blouse. Russian braid   See soutache braid.

131

132

S: S corporation to safety stitch safari   adj. Describes garments and accessories adapted from, or similar to, the bush jacket and other clothes worn in South Africa by hunters on safaris.

S corporation   Type of corporation that is given special status by the Internal Revenue Service in that earnings of the corporation are taxed only at the individual level. SA   Acronym for seventh avenue. sable   Luxurious fur with lustrous, long, silky guard hairs and soft, dense, fluffy underfur. Used for coats or scarves, with best quality, called Russian crown sable, coming from Siberia. Animal is also found in Canada, China, Korea, and Japan. Good durability, and very expensive. Golden sable in amber tone is less expensive.

safari dress

safari bag   Double-handled bag made like a small flight bag with a zippered closing. Characteristic features are the small pockets placed low on the outside of the bag. One of the most popular bags of the late 1960s and now a classic style. Also called caravan bag.

Sabrina neckline   See bateau neckline. sack/sac/saque dress  A loose-fitting dress that hangs straight from the shoulders to the hem. saddle shoe   Sport or school shoe usually made of white buck calf, with a brown or black leather saddle-shaped section over the middle of the shoe.

safari bag

safari belt   Wide belt with attached flap pockets in front. safari jacket   See bush jacket.

saddle shoe

saddle sleeve  A variation of the raglan sleeve where the lower armscye is cut as a set-in sleeve and then extends to the neckline parallel to the shoulder in the front and back bodice. Also called epaulet sleeve.

saddle sleeve

safari pocket  A patch pocket with a vertical pleat down the middle and a separate flap sewn above the pocket opening. Safari pockets may also have folds of excess material along the sides and bottom that allow the pocket to expand as a bellows pocket. Also called bellows pocket.

safari pocket

safari shirt  African-inspired shirt styled with lapels, buttoned center-front closing, and four large safari pockets—usually of bellows type. Der. Named after an African hunting trip. Also called bush shirt. safety stitch  A five-thread combination stitch consisting of a single-needle chain stitch that forms the seam and a three-thread overedge stitch that finishes the edge, which are formed simultaneously. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) refers to it as a 516 safety stitch.

133

S: SAI to sari/saree SAI   Acronym for social accountability international. sailor collar  Large square collar hanging in back with front tapering to a V with dickey inserted. Sometimes trimmed with rows of braid, especially for children. Also called middy collar.

production garment used to promote, market, and generate sales. 3. A cross section of customers targeted for a research project geared to a particular customer. sample cut/sample yardage  Small quantity of fabric to test design ideas and patterning. Because it comes from textile shows or sales reps, it may not conform to the brand’s quality standards. sample garment  A garment made to test the design and fit of a pattern before it goes into production.

sailor collar

sailor pants  Originally worn by sailors, a bell-bottom style with drop-front closing having 13 buttons representing the 13 original states. Seven buttons went across horizontally with three additional buttons extending vertically at each side. sales channel   A particular form of retailing or category of retail distribution. sales forecast   A projection of achievable sales revenues based on historical sales data and market analysis. The forecast takes into consideration anticipated margins as well as the marketing plan for the season.

sample line  A set of samples for the line(s) being presented to merchandisers and retail buyers. sample sewer   A highly skilled technician who sews the entire prototype (sample) garment using a variety of sewing equipment and production processes similar to those used in factories. sample size  Body measurements from which the fullsize range of a garment is developed. SAMs   Acronym for standard allowed minutes. sandal   Shoe held on the foot by means of straps that go over the foot, between the toes, or behind the heel; usually toeless and heelless.

sales history   Data on products in terms of which sold, in what quantities, and at what price. sales manager  Organizational leader who sets sales goals, analyzes data, and develops training programs for a company’s sales representatives. sales plan  A plan that defines goals and provides motivation for sales levels that meet or exceed the sales forecast. sales promotion  Short-term tactic to increase sales, used by companies and aimed at both retail accounts (for companies who sell merchandise to multi-brand retailers) and the ultimate consumer. sales representative  Individual who serves as the intermediary between the manufacturer and the retailer, selling the apparel, accessories, or home fashions lines to retail buyers.

sandal

sandal-foot hose  Hosiery with no reinforcement at the toe. Popular for wearing with open-toed shoes or sandals. sari/saree   (sah′-ree) Woman’s outer garment consisting of a long length of cotton, silk, or manufactured-fiber fabric wrapped around the waist and pleated at the side to form a skirt. One end is thrown over shoulder or used to cover the head. Worn with bare midriff blouse called a choli.

sales sample  A copy of the manufacturer’s prototype that is used by sales representatives in selling styles in the line to retail buyers. sales volume   Level of sales, expressed as either the total number of units of a style that sold at retail or the total amount consumers spent on the style. salon de couture   (koo-ture′) Haute couture designer’s showroom. sample   1. A prototype of a garment design used as a test before going into mass production. 2. An early

134

sari

S: sarong to seam classification sarong   (sar-ong′) Wrapped skirt or dress, usually made of bold floral-print cotton, used as beach cover-up. Der. Copied from Indonesian native dress.

scanner   Hardware technology that reads bar codes. scarf   (pl. scarfs or scarves) Decorative or utilitarian accessory worn draped around the shoulders and neck or over the head for warmth or adornment. May be square, oblong, or triangular, and made of knitted, crocheted, or woven fabric. scarf tie   A collar with ends that extend from the neckline which can be tied or looped as a design element. scenario   A technique used by futurists consisting of a series of stories or summaries that describe the evolution from the present situation to one or more possible futures. school bag   A rectangular-shaped handbag that mimics a child’s bookbag. SCM   Acronym for supply chain management scoop neckline  Low curved neckline cut deep in front or back or both. scooter skirt   See skort.

sarong

sash   Any belt of soft material that loops over and ties in a knot or bow rather than buckling.

screen printing  Process of applying a dye or pigment paste through a mesh stencil to produce a surface design. scrunchy/scrunchie   Elastic band covered with fabric for securing ponytails.

sash

satchel   A rectangular bag, usually made of leather or cloth, with a shoulder strap used for carrying books and/ or office documents. satin   A fabric with a lustrous top surface and a dull back due to the high number of floats or missed interlacings where the warp thread lays over the weft thread. saturation   See chroma. Savile Row  A street in Mayfair, central London, where many of the finest men’s bespoke (custom) tailoring shops are located. scalability   The capability of a company, system, and/ or process to grow or expand while maintaining (or increasing) the performance, quality, efficiencies, and effectiveness of the company, system, or process. scale   1. v. To expand operations in the future. 2. Used to describe size proportions in comparison with human size, e.g., half-scale dress form. scallop edge  Faced hem made with rounded edges simulating a shell design. scallop neckline or collar  A series of convex curves along the neckline of a garment or along the style line of a collar.

scrunchy

scuff   Open-back, sometimes open-toe, slipper with flat heel. sculpted heel  A heel of any height that is unusually shaped, often asymmetric but may be in the shape of a round orb or open rectangle. Made in a variety of materials as a footwear fashion statement. scye   (sigh) The armhole of a garment, which may be cut in different ways to accommodate a particular sleeve style. SeaCell®   A cellulose-based fiber made from seaweed. seam   Configuration of parts and/or edges of fabric that, when stitched, transform raw fabric into a garment or product and add to its visual design. A variety of stitches and techniques can be utilized in creating seams. seam allowance   The distance between the needle and the raw edges of fabric panels. seam binding   Narrow, woven, straight-grain tape used at hem of garment to cover raw edge. Also stitched to seams on wrong side to prevent stretching.

scallop edge

seam classification   A system of naming seams in relation to the way fabric is configured.

135

S: seamed hose to semiformal seamed hose  Full-fashioned hose with a seam up the back, reintroduced in 1970s but continue to be made in circular knits usually with black lines up the back. seamless bra   Bra with molded bra cups made of a single piece of fabric, eliminating seams and stitching that might show through; ideal to wear under clothes that are tight or made of clingy knits or sheer fabrics. Seamless bra technology can be applied to many types of bras, including minimizer, sports, or underwire bras.

seconds   Merchandise with slight flaws that is sold at lower prices. secret shopper   A person who appears to be just another customer but who is actually noting the operational details of a business for the purpose of competitive research. section work   See piecework. seduction principle  Authored by costume curator James Laver, the idea that people dress to attract others.

seamless shopping experience   An omni-channel coordination that ensures customers can buy a full range of products, at the same price, from any sales platform on which the brand has a presence and that the customer can return the product via a platform that is different from where they made the purchase. That experience may be further enhanced through utilization of customer data to personalize consumer interactions, be they in the store or digital.

see now, buy now  Supply chain calendar whereby consumers can purchase the merchandise immediately after the new line/collection is presented to the media, resulting from the consumer’s immediate digital access to runway shows and digital showrooms.

season   Refers to the time of year for which garments are designed to be shipped, sold, and worn. In womenswear there are generally six seasons per year; there may be fewer seasons in menswear and childrenswear.

see-through   adj. Any fabric or garment through which the silhouette of the body can be seen.

seasonal discount  Price reductions for out-of-season merchandise. These discounts encourage the retailer to buy at a time when the wholesaler’s vendors have open capacity and need orders to keep the factories open. Another variation is when the wholesaler may offer a discount in order to compete with other wholesalers during holiday seasons or calendar events such as back-to-school. seasonal goods   Merchandise that has its best sales during a particular season. seasonal line  A collection of products that are offered for sale by a division or firm at a given time, across all channels. seasonal product  Product that differentiates a brand and establishes its fashion aesthetic for the season. seasonless   Textiles or garments that are not restricted to a particular season but appropriate to wear year-round. secondary color   The colors obtained when two primary colors are mixed together. secondary data  Data that have already been collected and are available to the company or in the public domain. secondary line  A less-expensive version of a design originated by a manufacturer and sold by that manufacturer in different markets, different stores, and to a different group of customers than the original design. second-party audit  Factory audit conducted by employees of the fashion brand company for contractors whom they are vetting for possible contracts or with whom they already have a contract.

136

seersucker   A medium-weight fabric made with lengthwise crinkled stripes alternating with plain woven stripes, achieved by releasing the tension at intervals on the lengthwise yarns.

selective distribution   Strategy whereby fashion brand companies allow their merchandise to be distributed only through certain retailers. self-belt   Waistline accessory in a matching or coordinating material to the apparel item with which it is sold. self-covered   Descriptive of belts and buttons that are made in fabric that matches the garment on which they are placed. self-expression   Expressing one’s personality, ideas, feelings, and thoughts in the way they dress; may involve experimentation. self-sash   A sash that is attached to the garment it is designed for. May be a half sash that attaches at the side seams or a full sash that attaches at the center front or center back. sell-through   A percentage computed from a comparison of the amount of inventory that is sold compared to the quantity originally ordered and delivered. A higher percentage indicates a more successful buy. selvage/selvedge   (sehl′-vudge) A narrow, tightly woven band on either edge of fabric parallel to the warp that prevents fabric from raveling. semiformal   adj. Attire that is dressier than you would wear to the office but less formal than a tuxedo or evening gown, appropriate for semiformal occasions. For men, a dark suit and tie or dinner jacket, and for women, a cocktail dress or suit made in a dressy fabric; clothing that is suitable for weddings or holiday parties. Today, as the world of dress continues to get more casual, events or establishments that expect semiformal dress usually state it in their invitation or on their website.

S: sensory retailing to shawl collar sensory retailing  In-store stimulation of all the customer’s senses, using pleasant aromas, mood music, dramatic lighting to create an atmosphere that encourages the customer to shop and buy. separates   Apparel items that are generally purchased as individual pieces rather than as a coordinated outfit. serape   (suh-rah-pee) (Mexican) A colorful oblong rectangle worn over the shoulder. Originally handmade in horizontal-striped patterns resembling a small blanket. Usually made with fringed ends. serging (overlock) machine  A classification of machine that cuts a clean edge and then forms a web of stitches over the edge to keep it from raveling. Some sergers also stitch a row of reinforcement or an extra row of chain stitching. serpentine belt   Belt made in a wavy design, zigzagging around the body like a snake. service mark  Trade name, symbol, or design used to identify a service that is offered for sale. serviceability   Integrated measure of a product’s utility that includes wear life, ease of care, safety. set   The smooth fit of a garment that hangs from the body with no unwanted wrinkles.

shade sorting  The process of grouping shade variations together for distribution to specific customers or regions to provide the least discernable amount of variation in a particular shipment. Shade sorting of finished goods is a function of quality management. shades   Slang for sunglasses. Shakespeare collar  Standing collar of medium width, flaring away from face. Made of a curved pleated strip of stiffened lawn. shallow assortment   Characterizes a set of merchandise offered that has styles in relatively few sizes and colors. shank   1. The narrow part of the shoe under the arch of the foot between the heel and the ball of the foot. 2. The narrow strip of metal or other reinforcement inserted under arch of shoe between insole and outer sole to give strength to the arch. 3. The metal or plastic loop on the back of some button used to attach the button to fabric. Buttons without a shank have holes that go through the button for attachment and are referred to as sew-through. shape   A two-dimensional area enclosed by a line. shapewear   Undergarments designed to mold or hold the body in a certain shape, usually through the use of spandex in the fabric. Also called bodyshaper.

set-in   adj. Describing a part of a garment that is set into the silhouette, e.g., set-in sleeve, set-in thumb in a glove, or a set-in waist in a dress.

shapewear

shaping devices   Darts, seams, pleats, and gathers that help to mold the garment to the contours of the body.

set-in sleeve

Seventh Avenue (SA)  Nickname for garment district of New York City, roughly from 34th to 40th streets and from Avenue of the Americas (6th Avenue) to 9th Avenue, where much of American ready-to-wear used to be produced. Brand showrooms are still located in this area. sew   To join together by hand or machine stitching.

sharing economy   Practice of sharing goods and/or services between private individuals, either for free or for a fee. shawl   Decorative or utilitarian wrap, larger than a scarf, worn draped over the shoulders and sometimes the head. May be oblong, square, or triangular. shawl collar   A collar that is cut as part of the garment front and attaches to the back neckline with a seam in the center back.

sewing instructions   Directions that explain how to put pattern pieces together in order to complete a garment. They include a sequence of operations and step-by-step explanations of how to complete special construction techniques. shade   Refers to the values that can be obtained from a single hue. Hues with black added to darken the hue are called a shade (e.g., navy blue). Hues with white added are called tints.

shawl collar

137

S: sheared raccoon to shirring sheared raccoon  Velvety-textured fur similar in appearance to beaver, but not as soft or silky and more cinnamon brown in color with lighter stripes. Raccoon is processed by plucking out the long guard hairs and shearing. Durable fur, much less expensive than beaver. shearing   The process of clipping the nap of a fabric to its desired length.

sheer   adj. Describes any fabric that is transparent or semitransparent. shell   Sleeveless or cap-sleeved, collarless blouse or sweater with no front placket, designed to be worn under a suit but can also be worn on its own.

shearling   Pelts from “wool” lambs that have been processed with the hair intact, therefore classifying them as “fur” rather than “leather.” shearling jacket  Jacket made of a tanned sheepskin with wool attached. Leather side is sueded or buffed and used for the outside of the coat, with woolly side worn inside. Collar is made with wool side out. Also called sheepskin jacket.

shell

shell lining   Lining for only part of a coat or jacket, similar to a half lining. shibori   (she-bor′-ee) Japanese fabric printing technique often used by artists to create wearable art. A three-­ dimensional resist is made by folding, clamping, stitching and/or manipulating fabric before dyeing. After dyeing the resist areas are released to display complex patterns. shift   Straight-lined dress silhouette that hangs away from the body.

shearling jacket

sheath   Straight, narrow, fitted dress with or without a waistline seam; shaped to the body by vertical darts or princess seams. The slim skirt of the dress often has a slash or vent at the center back to facilitate walking. shift

shigra   Handmade, tote bag-style handbag sold to American tourists or exported to the United States from Ecuador, made from fibers taken from the leaves of the cabuya plant. Artisans use a looping system done with a needle to form distinctive patterns with natural and colored yarns. Originally used for storage of grain and flour. Made in patterns characteristic of different communities in Ecuador. shirring   See gather. sheath

sheepskin   Leather from sheep, characterized by morethan-average sponginess and stretchability, frequently sueded. Small skins with fine grain are called lambskin. Used for shoes, handbags, coats, and jackets. Sheepskin tanned with wool left on is often used leather side out for coats and sport jackets and called shearling. sheepskin jacket   See shearling jacket.

138

shirring

S: shirt to shoulder pad shirt   Clothing for the upper part of the body that is usually more tailored than a blouse. It has a shirt collar, shirt sleeves and a front placket. The hemline is often curved in front and back so that it stays tucked in. This hemline is referred to as a shirttail hem.

short row   Technique for changing direction of knitting before the end of a row.

shirt collar   A full-roll collar used on men’s or women’s garments; the collar falls over a stand that may be cut with the collar or as a separate piece.

short shorts   Very brief shorts worn as outerwear.

shirt sleeve  Tailored wrist-length sleeve set into the armscye before the side seam is closed. The armscye extends slightly beyond the shoulder to necessitate less cap on the sleeve. The sleeve is finished at the wrist with a cuff. shirtdress   Straight-lined dress buttoned down the front, cut similar to a shirt, and worn with or without a belt. It may also feature a shirttail hem.

short run  Production of a limited number of units of a particular item, fewer than would normally be considered an average number to produce. shortall   See bib shorts. short-cycle manufacturing   Manufacturing system whereby fashion products are manufactured for expedited, fast-fashion supply chain calendars. shorts   1. Two-legged garment ending above the knee; mainly worn by adults and children for sportswear. 2. Sometimes used to refer to men’s undergarments, boxer shorts, or jockey shorts.

short shorts/ upper thigh boy shorts Jamaica shorts/ mid-thigh Bermuda shorts above the knee

shirtdress

shirtwaist dress  Dress with top styled like a tailored shirt, usually buttoned from neck to waist, and made with either a full or straight skirt.

shorts variations in length

shorts suit   Suit accepted for city wear with longer jacket and shorts ending above the knee, popularized by Paul Smith. short-term forecasting  The process of analyzing current and upcoming events and pop culture phenomena that can be translated into fashion trends for an upcoming season. These events are analyzed for cues that can be related to color, fabric, and silhouette stories to give fashion a fresh look each season.

shirtwaist dress

shoe   Outer covering for the foot that does not reach higher than the ankle. Shoes are basically made up of the sole, or part under the foot; the vamp, or front part of the shoe; the quarter, or back of the shoe; and the shank, or portion under the instep. Shoes may be of the slip-on variety or closed with laces or buckles. See footwear. shoelace tie   See bolo tie. shopping center  A coordinated group of retail stores, plus a parking area. shopping the market  Investigating retail fashion trends that may influence an upcoming line.

shoulder bag  Handbag in any shape or size with long chain or strap to place over the shoulder. shoulder dart  V-shaped dart, extending from midshoulder seam to bust, or from shoulder seam to shoulder blade in back. shoulder dusters  Long drop earrings that graze the shoulder. shoulder head  A strip of bias fabric that is folded and attached to the armscye to fill out the cap of a sleeve on a tailored garment. shoulder pad  A sculpted pad, layered or filled with wool, cotton, synthetic foam, or manufactured fiber, tacked to the shoulder seam of clothing to raise the shoulder and improve fit.

139

S: showroom to sketchbook showroom   Location where manufacturers or designers present their current lines to retail buyers.

situation to better predict the results of a business decision that adapts or changes the situation.

showrooming   A term that describes the shopping behavior of consumers who research a product in the brick-and-mortar store first and then buy it online.

simultaneous adoption theory  See horizontal-flow theory.

shrug   A cropped knit cardigan that does not quite meet at the center front, with short or long sleeves.

simultaneous contrast   The idea that a color looks different when placed in proximity to another color. single knit   A knitted fabric structure created by a single set of needles. single-breasted   Conventional closing that laps over the center front and closes with a single row of buttons.

shrug

side leather  Cattlehides too large to process in one piece are cut down center back into two parts—each part is called a side. Used for sole leather or for shoe uppers and belts. side pleats   See knife pleats. signature   adj. Describes colors, fabrics, or garments that incorporate the brand’s name, logo, or patented pattern in their design. signature brand   See designer brand. signature stores  Stores that are owned and managed by a wholesale product developer used to build brand image, test new styles, and learn more about their customer preferences. silhouette   The overall outline or contour of a costume. silk   A fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm. silk-screen printing  Textile printing technique that utilizes screens to form a resist on certain areas when dye paste is forced through the screen. Multiple screens must be developed for each color in the print. simple subtractive color-mixing system   A variation of the subtractive color-mixing system that explains how thin films of color are mixed. Printing inks, drawing inks, watercolor paints, and color photography film are all color media that rely on thin films of color which can be layered one on top of another to create other colors. Scientifically, cyan, magenta, and yellow are considered the subtractive primaries; green, violet, and orange are the subtractive secondaries. These primaries produce the greatest range of colors and, when combined in equal amounts, mix to form black. The process wheel illustrates the relationship of colors using yellow, cyan, and magenta as the subtractive primaries. simulation research  Marketing research technique that allows companies to simulate or mimic a business

140

single-hand system  A sewing/construction system in which an individual sewer is responsible for sewing an entire garment. six-month merchandise plan   A planning framework a retailer uses for determining the financial investments needed to achieve their sales goals for each month during a six-month period or season. size inclusive   A brand that offers an extended range of sizes to fit diverse body types rather than segmenting out plus sizes and petites. A size-inclusive brand would also want to show similar diversity in their ads, on social media, and on the runway. size migration  A situation in which one woman typically fits into a range of three or more sizes, depending on the manufacturer’s sizing specs and the cut of the garment. size nomenclature  The descriptive name of each size in a size range. These numerical or alpha designations identify the garment size; they may or may not be related to body measurements. size run   A group of garments incorporating one of each size within a size range for a specific style. Size runs may be ordered up for quality control. size specification  Target measurements at particular locations on a garment that are established by the manufacturer for each of the sizes in which the style will be made. size standards  The amount of proportional increase or decrease in garment measurements that a ready-towear apparel company requires for each of the sizes it produces. size system  A list of body measurements that correspond to letters or numbers. sizing   Body measurements used as guide for cutting garments to fit a variety of body types. sketchbook   A blank book used to collect various sketched ideas by a designer that may be the basis for future collections.

S: ski jacket to slingback shoe ski jacket   Any type of wind-resistant jacket worn when skiing. Frequently has an attached hood. Usually made waist or hip length with zippered pockets.

skort   Miniskirt with attached shorts. Also called golf skirt, scooter skirt.

ski pants  Pants or leggings worn for skiing and other winter sports; made of water resistant fabric, often having straps under the feet. ski suit   A jumpsuit worn for skiing and winter sports. skort

SKU   Acronym for stock-keeping unit.

ski suit

ski sweater  Classification of elaborately patterned sweaters made in jacquard knits in many colors designed for warmth but not bulk. skin   Animal skin that weighs 15 pounds (6,804 g) or less when shipped to a tannery.

SKU rationalization/optimization  The use of predictive analytics and historic sales data to optimize decision-making in product design, merchandising, and retail buying. This strategy aims to minimize inventory while optimizing sell-through by engaging the customer in curation decisions. Customers help to identify products they would buy and the price they would pay before a brand or retailer commits to quantifying an order. SKUs with low interest can be aborted and SKUs with high interest can be increased to improve inventory productivity. skullcap   A cap which fits tightly to crown of the head, often part of ecclesiastical garb or national costume. slash pockets   Pockets on which the pouch is on the inside of the garment; they are frequently used on tailored garments. They include double-welt or bound pockets, welt pockets, and flap pockets.

skinny legs/skinny jeans  Tight-fitting, narrow pants that taper to a narrow opening, which often requires a zipper at the ankle.

sleeve   That part of an item of clothing that covers the arm.

skirt   Garments that covers the lower part of the body without legs; hemline may be anywhere from midthigh to the floor. The section of a dress below the waistline.

slicker   Coat of oilskin or rubberized fabric worn for protection from rain; originally in bright yellow or other vivid colors, now also available in neutral colors.

sleeveless   Any style of garment without sleeves.

micro-mini mini above knee length knee length mid-calf/ midi length tea/waltz length ballerina length ankle/maxi length

slicker

slide   Open-back, toeless sandal. slingback shoe   Any shoe with an open back and a strap around the heel of the foot to hold it in place. May be made in pump or sandal style.

full length

skirt lengths slingback shoe

141

S: slip to smoking jacket slip   Undergarment, beginning at the shoulder, above the bust, or at the waist, worn by women and girls under garments made of sheer fabrics.

fashion industry through systems thinking, extending product life, enhancing consumer/user connections, and addressing all aspects of sustainability.

slip dress  Simple bias-cut dress cut like an undergarment with spaghetti straps over shoulders; part of the underwear as outerwear trend.

slub   A soft thick nub in a yarn that is purposely spun for a desired effect. SIC   Acronym for standard industrial classification. small-batch manufacturing  A small production run, typically less than 500 units. small-to-medium enterprise (SME)   A business where revenues, assets, or number of employees are below a certain threshold. Countries vary in defining that threshold.

slip dress with spaghetti straps

slipper   A comfortable slip-on shoe that is meant to be worn indoors. slogan   A word or phrase typically emblazoned on the chest of a garment.

smart data   Digital information that has been formatted so that it can be acted upon at the collection point before it is sent to an analytics platform for further data consolidation and analytics. SME   Acronym for small-to-medium enterprise. smile pocket   A bound pocket shaped like a half-moon.

sloper   See block pattern. slot seam   Seam created by folding under the edge of each of two garment pieces and laying the edges facing each other over a tape or strip of fabric, and topstitching the folded edges through the underlying fabric. This technique is often used to create a contrast in color or fabric between the underlying fabric and the top garment fabric.

smile pocket

smock   Long-sleeved, loose-fitting garment fastened down front or back, intended to protect clothes while wearer is working.

slot seam

slouch hat   Woman’s hat similar to a man’s fedora, made with a flexible brim that may be turned down in front. Also called Garbo hat. smock

slouch hat

Slow Factory Foundation  A New York–based organization dedicated to improving sustainability literacy in fashion. They use a holistic, human-centered approach to bridge science, human rights, technology, fashion, and culture to develop products, resources, and certifications for both the industry and individuals. slow fashion  Movement within the fashion industry in which fashion designers create a more sustainable

142

smock dress  Dress cut with yoke that comes above the bust and straight hanging skirt attached with slight gathers to the yoke. Usually worn without a belt. Resembles the cut of a smock. smocking   A decorative form of stitching that controls fabric fullness. smoking jacket  Man’s jacket of velvet or other luxurious cloth with velvet or satin shawl collar, worn at home for informal entertaining. Called “le smoking” in France. Adapted for women by Paris designer Yves Saint Laurent in mid-1960s.

smocking or honeycomb stitch

smoking jacket

S: snake bracelet to soft goods snake bracelet   Metal bracelet in the form of a serpent worn coiled around the arm.

social commerce  The ability to transact purchases on social media.

sneakerization   A term used to describe the process of transforming an inexpensive commodity product into a cutting-edge specialty product using technology or updated aesthetics. Examples include Nike athletic shoes or the Burberry plaid.

social compliance program  A process in which the involved parties make a concerted effort to look for better ways to protect the health, safety, and fundamental rights of their employees, as well as protect and enhance the community and environment in which they operate.

sneakers   See tennis shoe. lining

upper eyelet toe box

lace

sole eyelet stay sneaker

snood   1. A ring of knitted fabric that encircles the neck and can be pulled up to cover the mouth, nose, facial hair, and/or hair for health, sanitation, or warmth purposes. 2. An ornamental net or fabric bag that is pinned or tied on at the back of a woman’s head to hold her hair.

snood

snowsuit   A one- or two-piece garment, worn by children to protect them from the cold and wet snow. Suits have hoods and ribbing at ankles and wrists.

social enterprise  A business or organization that attempts to fulfil unmet social needs or solve a social problem through a market-driven approach. social entrepreneur  A person who establishes an enterprise with the goal of working to solve critical social problems and addressing basic unmet needs. social justice  Process to ensure the distribution of resources is equitable so that all members of society are physically and psychologically safe and secure. social media   Forms of digital communication in which users create communities and share information, photos, videos, and messages. social media influencer  Individual who has achieved credibility and social visibility via social media to influence the opinions, attitudes, and/or purchasing of consumers. social media manager   Leads a company’s creative efforts for social media, including Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat, Instagram, and others. Responsible for calendar, visual strategies, and implementing best practices and emerging technologies. social mobility  An individual or group moving fluidly within a social hierarchy. Changes may be due to things such as wealth, social status, education, occupation, legal status, or health. social objectives  How a fashion brand company plans to achieve its goals that benefit its employees, customers, and/or society, including measurable targets.

snowsuit 1933

Social Accountability International (SAI)   An international organization that advances human rights through their SA8000® standard and other certifications and initiatives. social change   The discernable transformation of ­cultural and social institutions (social processes, social interactions, organizations) over time; apparent changes in how people within a society think and behave.

social sustainability  Focuses on creating and sustaining social structures and processes that ensure the health and well-being of individuals and communities. socioeconomic status   Social standing or class of an individual or group. It is often measured as a combination of education, income, and occupation. socks   Knitted coverings for the foot and part of the leg that end somewhere around the ankle or above. soft goods  Fashion and textile merchandise (e.g., dresses, lingerie, coats, household

sock

143

S: sole to spectrophotometer textiles), as contrasted with hard goods (e.g., home appliances, hardware, or furniture). sole   Bottom part of the shoe, under the foot, usually consisting of three parts—outsole, which touches the ground; midsole ( also called filler), which fills the space between the outsole and the insole; and insole (see insole), which is the part immediately under the foot. sole proprietorship  Business entity whereby a company is owned by a single individual. solution dyeing  A process specific to synthetic and manufactured fibers whereby the color is added to the liquefied fiber before it is extruded as a filament. solution-based design  Fashion design process approached from the perspective of creating fashions that are part of solutions to larger societal, environmental, economic, health, and political problems. sombrero   (som-brer’-oh) Mexican hat with a tall, slightly tapered crown and large upturned brim. Worn in Mexico by laborers in straw and by wealthier citizens in felt lavishly trimmed around the edge, sometimes with silver lace. source   See vendor. sourcing   The continuous review of the need for goods and services against the purchasing opportunities that meet quantity, quality, price, sustainability, and delivery parameters, in order to leverage purchasing power for the best value.

spaghetti strap   Very narrow strap with or without cord inserted to produce a round effect, similar to a strand of spaghetti. spandex   Generic name for manufactured fibers largely composed of segmented polyurethane, which is lightweight and stretchable, with good recovery. spats   Short cloth or leather gaiters covering the ankle and instep to protect shoes or boots. spec/specification   A requirement for materials, components, measurements, or construction applied to a specific garment or style. spec pack   See specification package. spec page/spec sheets  A document used to describe in great detail what an apparel product looks like, how it is made, and what it should be made of. Also contains sketches, notes on design, colors, materials, etc., and any references needed for design components. special instructions   Part of a tech or specification pack that communicates unique construction requirements for a particular style. special order   The sale of an item that is not in stock for a specific customer. specialty goods   Products that have unique characteristics that appeal to a specific customer group that has the means to purchase.

specialty retailer   Retailer that focuses on a specific type of merchandise targeted to a specific group of customers.

sourcing agent   A vendor who provides all the services necessary for production, including sourcing of fabrics and trims, product testing, color matching, sample making, grading, marker making, cutting, garment assembly, finishing, shipping, and export.

specialty store  A retail establishment that sells a deep ­assortment of merchandise in a narrowly defined category.

sourcing analyst  A position responsible for collecting and analyzing data related to evaluating the efficiency and effectiveness of vendors within the company’s supply chain.

specification library  A real-time database in a digital product life management system that stores information and drawings of past styles that can be drawn upon when developing a new design spec.

sourcing fair  Trade shows that bring contractors and companies together. At these fairs, contractors have booths with samples of their merchandise and information about their expertise and capacities. sourcing mix  The combination of resources and vendors a company utilizes for production of their product line. soutache braid  (soo-tash′) (Hungarian, sujtas, “flat trimming braid”) Narrow, flat, decorative braid. Used for borders and for allover ornamental patterns. Der. Hungarian, sujtas, “flat trimming braid.” Also called Russian braid. space dye   A technique of adding different-colored dyes to sections of a yarn or thread.

144

specification buying   A type of purchasing that is done to the store’s rather than to the manufacturer’s standards. See also private label.

specification manager   Manager who oversees the purchasing and manufacturing process for a private label. Also called product manager.

specification package  Series of forms that define a garment, including a design sheet with a flat of the garment, a measurement sheet, a piece reference sheet, an assembly sheet, and a cost sheet. Also called spec pack, tech pack. spectator pump   Two-toned pump characterized by contrasting colors on the toe and heel.

spectrophotometer   An instrument that compares the amount of light used spectator pump to illuminate an object with the amount of light that is reflected back from that object. A ratio is

S: speed lacing to Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) code calculated at each wavelength in the visible spectrum in order to measure color accurately. Spectrophotometers are the preferred instruments for color identification, detection of metamerism, and color formulation. They can provide color measurements that can be compared when the color is viewed under multiple light sources. Spectral data can be converted into RGB (red, blue, green) language for monitor display, into CYMK (cyan, yellow, magenta, black) or EG (extended gamut printer colors) language for printers, and into recipes for various dyes. speed lacing  A shoe lacing system for athletes’ shoes and hiking boots that moves the laces from inside the shoes to the surface of the shoes with clips or hooks that make lacing the shoe very fast.  speed to market   A brand’s ability to get products from concept to distribution channels quickly, giving them a competitive advantage. Spencer jacket   Short, fitted jacket, ending at or above the waistline. May have a front closure and/or collar.

synonymous with casual wear that is worn for leisure activities. spread collar   Man’s shirt collar made with a wide division between points in front.

spread collar

spreading   Process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide cutting tables, stacked layer upon layer, in preparation for cutting. spreading machines   A laying-up machine that carries material along a guide on either side of a cutting table, spreading the material evenly, layer upon layer. square neckline   Moderately low neckline cut square in front. stadium coat  Car coat of three-quarter length, often with a drawstring around the bottom edge. stakeholder   An individual or group that will be directly affected by an action or decision or that can directly affect the firm or organization in a positive or negative manner.

Spencer jacket

spike heel   High, curved, slender heel with tiny base; usually 3″–5″ high. Anything over a 5″ heel is usually designed in combination with a platform soul. Extended walking is challenging in any shoe with a 4″ heel or higher. splatter   Dye effect in which dye is dripped or thrown onto the surface of a textile or garment. split   One of several layers or cuts sliced from thick cattlehide with the grade of leather determined by the split. Top-grain is the smooth hair side of the skin; other splits have a rough surface, called deep-buff, split, and slab. The latter cuts are mainly used to make suede. split complement  A color harmony that consists of a color and the two colors on either side of its complement. split skirt  Synonym for pant skirt, divided skirt, gauchos, and culottes. SPI   Acronym for stitches per inch. sport shirt   Any type of man’s shirt worn without a necktie and generally not tucked into trousers. sports bra  A woman’s undergarment designed to support a woman’s breasts ­during sports or other physical activity. sportswear   Originally, clothing designated for active sports but has become

sports bra

stand   The part of the collar that extends upward from the neckline and fits close to the neck. stand collar  Collar extending higher on the neck and sometimes finished with a frill of lace or pleating. Also called band collar. standard allowed minutes (SAMs)  A set amount of time (expressed in fractions of a minute) that are required to perform a specific task in an industrialized setting. standard body size   A set of body measurements for the size that most closely represents the ideal shape of the target customer or the median size of a range. standard grade  Grade increments that remain constant (the same amount is added to the bust, waist, and hip), regardless of whether a 1″, 1½″, or 2″ (2.5 cm, 4 cm, or 5 cm) grade is required for the specific size. Using a standard grade assumes the body grows proportionately as it gets larger; the same body shape (rectangle, pear, hourglass) is preserved. Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) code  Code that was used to identify US business establishments according to their general types of business activity to facilitate statistical analysis. Replaced by the North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) in 1997 to synchronize classifications between NAFTA signatories.

145

S: standard inspection procedure (SIP) to stocking cap standard inspection procedure (SIP)   A method of inspection that prescribes a specific order in which to look at the garment and the criteria to use at each point.

200 class stitches   A category of hand stitches in which stitches are formed by hand or are machine simulations of hand stitches.

standards   Characteristics of products and processes that are used as the basis for making decisions. Standards define expectations for quality of materials and performance.

300 class stitches   A category of lockstitches in which stitches are formed with a bobbin thread and one or more needle threads that pass through the fabric and interlace to secure each stitch.

staple color  Colors such as black, navy, white, gray, or tan that appear frequently in a line, season after season.

400 class stitches   A category of lockstitches in which stitches are formed with a looper thread and one or more needle threads that pass through the fabric and interlace with loops that interloop on the underside of the material.

staple length  The average length of a group of fibers, either from natural sources or cut from filament forms of synthetic or manufactured fibers. start-up/startup   A new business venture of an entrepreneur with the intent that the business will grow beyond the initial founder(s). stay   Strip of material, originally whalebone but now usually thin metal or plastic, placed behind or within seams or darts and used to stiffen such garments as corsets, bodices, collar points, or belts. 2. Piece of fabric stitched under pleats or gathers to hold fullness in place. Stetson®   Brand trademark for a man’s hat manufacturer of all types of hats, but often used to mean a widebrimmed, Western-style hat, especially the cowboy style. stiletto heel   (stil-et′-tow) Narrow set-back heel that ends in a tiny rounded base, usually fitted with a metal tip. stirrup pants  Pants, usually made in a narrow style, that have an extension under the instep that can be worn inside or under the shoe.

500 class stitches   A category of overedge stitches in which stitches are formed with one or a group of more threads (one needle thread and two or more looper threads) and at least one group of threads go over the edge of the fabric to stop fraying. 600 class stitches   A category of covering chain stitch which is produced with three groups of threads. The first group of thread is called needle thread, the second group is called top cover thread, and the third group is called bottom cover thread; threads from two groups can be seen on both the upper lower side of the garment. Cover stitches are frequently used on knitwear. stitches   Rows of continuous strands of thread that interlace or interloop in order to hold fabric together or create a pattern that shows on the surface of the garment. stitches per inch (SPI)  Specification included in the construction sheet of a tech pack for the length of stitch to be used for the garment/product. stock on hand   The stock currently available in a retail store. stockholder   Owner of stock or shares in a corporation; each share of stock owned by a stockholder represents a percentage of the company.

stirrup pants

stitch types  Most brand developers and global manufacturers specify how they expect garments to be sewn by using the International Standards Organization (ISO) classification system. That system groups stitches as follows: 100 class stitches   A chain stitch produced by one or more needle threads which pass through the fabric to form a needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. This stitch is elastic and thicker than the lockstitch and can be easily raveled.

146

stock-keeping unit (SKU)  A number or code used to identify each distinct product and service that can be purchased, thus enabling the company to systematically track its inventory or product availability. Only those items identical in style, color, and size belong to a particular SKU. stocking cap  A knitted or crocheted cap with a long pendant tail worn hanging down the back or side, frequently with a tassel on the end.

stocking cap

S: stockout to strike off stockout   Situation when merchandise is not available at the time consumers request it, resulting in lost sales. stole   A band of cloth or a shawl worn over the shoulders and left to fall down the front of the body.

stonewashed   adj. Descriptive of fabrics or garments that have been treated to produce certain color and/or texture effects by tumbling them with pumice stones or other abrasives that may have been soaked in bleaching chemicals. Where the stones come into contact with the fabric, abrasion occurs and color is removed. Synonyms include acid washing, distressing, frosting, ice washing, snow washing, super washing, and white washing.

store brand   Exclusive goods that carry the name of the retailer who sells them. They may be developed by the retailer or selected from another product developer that labels the goods for exclusive distribution by said retailer.

store brand strategy   A strategy that caters to a particular market niche with highly focused, exclusive product as opposed to mass merchant and department stores that serve a wide range of consumer ages, lifestyles, and price points. store intercept interview  Type of interview technique whereby customers are stopped immediately after a shopping experience and asked a series of questions about the experience and products purchased.

storm coat  Heavy coat, sometimes quilted and made with water-repellent finish. May be styled with shearling, pile, or quilted fabric lining and collar. By 1980s entire coat was made of quilted nylon.

storm flap  Large flap that covers a closure to protect from the effects of rain or other natural elements.

storytelling   A marketing strategy the uses a narrative to communicate the message of a brand, with the aim of making the viewer feel a part of something. Storytelling builds community and humanizes the brand.

stovepipe hat   Top hat.

stovepipe pants   Slim-fitting jeans or trousers that fall straight from the knee. Also called drainpipe pants.

straight skirt   Any slim skirt without fullness.

strap seam  Plain seam stitched with wrong sides together, thereby making the seam on the outside of the garment. The seam is pressed open. Bias fabric or tape, with the edges folded under, is laid over the open seam and topstitched into place.

strapless bra  Bra constructed so that it stays in place without straps over the shoulders. May be long-line, tube, or wired. strapless neckline  Boned or elastic bodice that begins at the top of the bustline and requires no shoulders or straps.

strapless neckline

strategic alliance  A form of business collaboration in which a retailer and a manufacturer join forces to operate more efficiently, thus improving profits for both companies, while offering customers a better product at a lower price. strategic plan  A dynamic document that envisions a desired future and translates that vision into an action plan that informs decision-making and asset allocation. It links concepts related to the target market and product line to the financial goals of the business. strategic window   An interval of time in which a firm’s competitive capabilities and the demands of the market are aligned. street style   Fashions that originate with or are inspired by clothing worn by individuals, usually young, rather than with the fashion industry, although contemporary fashion brands, both designer and fast fashion, draw inspiration from street style. stretch   1. Classification of fabrics of various types: (a) Knitted fabrics that stretch because of the elasticity of the knit. (b) Fabrics made with textured yarns that have been crimped or curled. (c) Fabrics given special finishes that provide increased resiliency and elasticity. (d) Fabrics woven with yarns made from elastomers. (e) Fabrics cut on the bias. 2. adj. The ability of a yarn, fiber, or textile to elongate with stress and to recover its original shape and size when the stress is removed. 3. Descriptive of apparel that exhibits the ability to extend in length or width from its original size. stretch woven   Woven fabric that has at least 20 percent stretch in either the lengthwise or crosswise direction or both.

strap seam

strike off  A full repeat of a print or yarn-dyed fabric in the specified colors and on the specified fabric or a computer-aided design (CAD) copy, with a color key of all colors that appear within the print submitted for approval before production.

147

S: strike through to subtractive color-mixing system strike through  Condition when adhesives on interfacings show through to the surface of the garment during pressing. string bikini   Pieces of fabric cut for minimal coverage of the body and held in place by stringlike ties.

style show   See fashion show. style testing  A marketing strategy that presents early product prototypes to retail buyers, consumers, or both in order to gather feedback before the style goes into production. style tribe  Coined by sociologist Ted Polhemus to describe groups of individuals who identify with a particular subcultural group and adopt fashions that proclaim their membership in that group (e.g., hippie, mod, punk, goth). These fashions may influence current fashions. styling ease  Additional ease beyond that required for function (fitting ease). Styling ease contributes to the uniqueness of the garment. stylist   1. A person whose job it is to arrange garments and accessories in a pleasing manner for photography. 2. Designers who tend to adapt the ideas of others rather than creating totally original garments.

string bikini

stripes   1. Bands of color or texture of varying widths, making a design in a fabric, either printed on or woven in; may go in horizontal, vertical, or diagonal direction. 2. Narrow bands of braid, bias binding, ribbon, or fabric applied in rows. structural design  Textile design that is visible on the surface and is woven or knitted into the textile in the fiber, yarn, or construction stages of production. Garment design that determines the form of the silhouette. studded belt   A belt that is decorated with rivets, nailheads, and other buttonlike objects. stud   1. A buttonlike earring mounted on a slender post for wearing in a pierced ear lobe. 2. A small buttonlike closure with a smaller button or shank on the back; it is inserted into a shirt front or cuff as an ornament or fastener. 3. v. To decorate with rounded knobs or nailheads. style   1. A characteristic or distinctive mode of presentation or conceptualization in a particular field. In apparel, style is the characteristic or distinctive appearance of a garment, the combination of features that makes it different from other garments. 2. v. To design, make, or arrange in accord with the prevailing mode. 3. n. Flair that is specific and individual; “to have style,” meaning to have a certain unique fashion sense. style line  The outer edge of a collar that defines its width and shape. style number   A number assigned to each garment style that is coded to indicate the season/year for the style and other style information. The number identifies the product for manufacturing, ordering, and selling. style obsolescence  When an article of apparel is no longer desirable because it’s gone out of popular fashion.

148

stylized print  Ideas presented in an abstract, rather than naturalistic, manner, reducing the objects to a design. sub-brand   Brand that is owned and affiliated with the parent company but carries a different brand name. subcontractor   Company or individual hired by contractors to complete orders or perform specific tasks (e.g., embellishments, embroidery). subculture   A group with distinct behaviors and beliefs that are different from those held by the wider culture of which they are a part. Subcultures may be identified by their political or artistic views, race, sexual orientation, or other values. sublimation printing  A technique in which dispersed dyes are first digitally printed on special transfer paper, which is then placed on the fabric and passed through a machine at about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature and pressure cause the dye to vaporize and transfer onto the fabric. Also called heat transfer printing. subscription e-commerce  Strategy whereby online shoppers sign up to receive merchandise on a recurring basis (e.g., monthly, quarterly). That merchandise may be on a purchase or rental basis. substrate   An underlying material on which inks, dyes, or paints are applied. In color management, a substrate is the material chosen to demonstrate the gamut of color that can be achieved in color standards (see color standard), such as cotton, silk, or polyester. subtractive color-mixing system  A system that explains how pigments are mixed. Paints, inks, dyes, and other color media all absorb certain wavelengths of light, which enable an object to absorb some light waves and reflect back others. The more pigments that are blended, the more light is absorbed and the less light is reflected, thus the label “subtractive.”

S: suede to surgical mask suede   Leather, usually lambskin, doeskin, or splits of cattlehide, that has been buffed on the flesh side to raise a slight texture. Sometimes buffed on grain side or on both sides of a split to cover small defects. suggested retail price  The price a fashion brand company recommends that the merchandise be sold at retail. suit   Two, three, or more items of apparel, either of matching or contrasting fabric, designed to be worn together. For women, generally consists of a jacket and skirt or pants. For men, usually consists of trousers and jacket made in single- or double-breasted style, sometimes including a vest. suit sleeve   See two-piece sleeve. suitcase bag  Handbag made of metal and shaped like a miniature suitcase, complete with lock and reinforced corners. suiting   As defined broadly, any fabric used for men’s and women’s suits. Includes woolens, linens, cottons, and manufactured ­fibers and blends made in a variety of weaves and patterns that have no specific name but tailor well. sumptuary law   (sump′-too-air-ee) Law restricting consumer purchases in times of crisis, or restricting the ownership and use of luxury goods to certain social and/or economic classes. Such laws were frequently applied to clothing and its ornamentation but were rarely obeyed or much enforced. sunburst pleats  Heat-set pleats that are narrower at the top than they are at the bottom. This type of pleating is applied to a circle or half-circle piece of fabric rather than continuous yardage.

sunburst pleats

sundress   An informal dress made to be worn in warm weather, usually exposing the shoulders, arms, and/or back. sunglasses   Eyeglasses with dark-colored lenses to cut glare and the brightness of the sun. sunhat   A wide-brimmed hat worn to protect the head and neck from sun exposure. sundries   See findings. sunsuit   A one- or two-piece outfit for women and children for sunbathing and leisure. Often offers protection from the sun.

superimposed seam   A classification of configurations of seams in which two or more pieces of fabric are laid together and stitched. supermodel   Fashion model who has gained individual recognition by the press and public. The publicity they gain and images of them off, as well as on, the runway may serve to influence fashion trends. supplier   See vendor. supply chain  The interconnected individuals, businesses, and processes that are necessary to get a fashion product to the ultimate consumer; each stage of a supply chain adds value to the product. supply chain calendar   A task list that lays out the time necessary for fashion companies to research, design, manufacture, and distribute a fashion product. supply chain management (SCM)  1. Software applications that help companies manage the flow of goods and services, including all processes that transform raw materials into final products. 2. The functional area of a company that vets supply chain partners to make sure they are capable of adhering to the company’s code of conduct, negotiates costs for supplies and production, manages quality, and ensures that product is received on schedule. supply chain traceability  Ability for a fashion brand company to track and identify the entire supply chain for each product it distributes. supply chain transparency  Effective communication of where, how, and by whom all aspects of a fashion product are made and distributed. support legwear   Hosiery for men or women knitted of stretch nylon combined with spandex yarns to provide support to the muscles and veins of the legs. These fabrics keep pressure on the blood vessels so they will not dilate. This improves the circulation and prevents leg fatigue. They are made as hose and pantyhose for women and socks or stockings for men. support material  Material such as interfacings that stabilizes or restricts the drape of some parts of the garment while leaving the original drape for other parts. surface design   Any decorative design element added to the surface of a textile or garment. surface interest  An aesthetic property created by breaking up a surface into contrasting units of light reflection. surgical mask  A loose-fitting, disposable face mask intended to be worn by healthcare professionals that creates a physical barrier between the mouth and nose of the wearer and potential contaminants in the immediate environment. N95 masks are the standard.

149

S: surplice to sweater jacket surplice   Loose, white overblouse, either waist- or kneelength, gathered to flat yoke with full open sleeves; worn by clergy, acolytes, and choir singers. surplice wrap bodice/neckline  A bodice or neckline where the two halves of the front wrap diagonally rather than buttoning, forming a V-neckline.

brings attention to sustainable fashion brands, thus influencing consumer behavior. sustainable fashion retailing  Business strategies of fashion retailers that promote environmental, social, economic, and cultural sustainability to improve the health and well-being of customers, employees, and communities. sustainable operations  Business strategies that prioritize economic, environmental, social, and cultural sustainability in all aspects of the company’s operations. swagger coat  Pyramid-shaped woman’s coat with flared bias back. Usually with raglan sleeves and large saucer-shaped buttons attached by fabric cord.

surplice wrap

survey   The systematic gathering of information from respondents by communicating with them in person, over the telephone, by mail, or through the internet. A company can collect its own data or hire an outside research firm for a specific project. suspenders   Detachable straps of elasticized fabric passed over shoulders and clipped or buttoned to trousers or skirt front and back. Called braces in the UK.

swagger coat

swallow-tailed coat   See tail coat. swatch   1. A small sample of the material/fabric intended to be used for a style. 2. In knitting, a sample that is knit with the desired yarn and needles to determine or confirm gauge—the stitches and rows per inch/centimeter. Also called tension swatch. suspenders

sustainability   The ability to maintain or improve quality of life by promoting change that supports environmental integrity, social justice, and economic fairness.

sweatband   1. A band placed around the inside of a hat or cap to absorb moisture. 2. A stretch terry-cloth band worn around the head during exercise to absorb sweat.

sustainability plan   A company’s written commitments, goals, implementation plans, and assessments around sustainability. sustainable apparel consumer   Consumer who uses sustainability factors to inform apparel purchase decisions. sustainable design   Design that takes into account the effects of textile and apparel production on the environment and seeks to eliminate negative impacts. sustainable development  Broad term around business practices that take into consideration environmental impact, economic efficiency, and quality of life. sustainable fashion influencer   Individual who through their social visibility builds awareness and

150

sweatband

sweater   A garment for the upper part of the body made of knitted or crocheted fabric in pullover or cardigan style, with or without sleeves. Called “jumper” in the UK. sweater coat   Knitted cardigan-style coat. sweater dress   Knitted dress styled like a long sweater. sweater jacket  Single- or double-breasted cardigan sweater made in a heavier gauge knit, generally with a collar and pockets.

S: sweater set to systems thinking sweetheart neckline  Moderately low neckline with heart-shaped center front. Sides of neckline slant toward neck in front with back rounded.

sweater jacket

sweater set  Two sweaters made to be worn together, one usually of short-sleeve pullover type and the other a cardigan style. Also called twinset.

sweetheart neckline

swimsuit   Garment designed for swimming. swing skirt   Flared skirt, circular or cut in gores, fitted at hips with a wide flare at the hem. SWOT analysis   A technique for assessing one’s business based on the identification of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats.

sweater set or twinset

sweatpants   Pants of cotton knit with fleece backing to absorb moisture. Worn by athletes before and after exercising. Also called warm-up pants. sweatshirt   Long-sleeved, fleece-backed, cotton-knit pullover or zipped-front knit shirt made with rib-knit crew neck, cuffs, and waistband. Sometimes has attached hood and often worn with matching sweatpants, as a sweatsuit. sweatshop   A company that violates labor, safety, health, and/or worker compensation laws, or that has work environments that are unsafe, inhumane, or abusive without providing opportunities for workers to organize or negotiate better terms of work. sweatsuit   Exercise clothing consisting of loose-fitting pants and a pullover or a zippered jacket made of sweatshirt fleece or a high-tech fabric. sweep   The width of the lower edge of a garment.

symmetric   A term used to describe a garment that appears the same on both sides of an imaginary line drawn down the middle of the garment perpendicular to the floor. synergy   The interaction or cooperation of two or more organizations, businesses, or other agents to produce a combined impact greater than the sum of their separate efforts. synthetic fibers   Spun from melted thermoplastic compounds distilled from petrochemicals. systemic change  Large-scale change that impacts all parts of a system, taking into account the interrelationships and interdependencies among those parts, with the intention of being sustainable. systems approach   An approach to operations management built on the assumption that everything is interrelated and interdependent. systems thinking   A point of view that addresses problems from a broad perspective that includes seeing overall structures, patterns, and cycles rather than specific events.

151

152

T: tab collar to tango shoe tailored collar  A notched collar traditionally found on tailored garments. It is a partial roll collar that consists of a stand and a fall which surrounds the neck and is attached to lapels which are part of the garment front. Also referred to as a notched collar. style line

stand fall

roll line

gorge line

notch

lapel

break point

tailored collar

tailored sleeve   See two-piece sleeve.

tab collar  Shirt collar fitting high on the neck with a small flap or tab at the neckband that buttons or snaps to other side of shirt. tab collar tabi   An ankle-length, unisex, traditional Japanese sock that separates the big toe from the rest of the toes.

tactile   The actual feel of the surface texture. taffeta   Crisp fabric with a fine, smooth surface made in plain weave with a small crosswise rib. Originally made in silk, now also available in synthetic filament fibers. tagboard   Manila cardboard, the weight of posterboard, used in the fashion industry for pattern pieces. Also called oaktag.  A man’s tail coat/tails  coat that is cut horizontally over the front and hips and has a tapering tail with a vertical slit up to the waist in the back. It is typically worn for evening dress or for formal weddings. Also called swallow-tailed coat, morning coat.

tailored sleeve

tailored suit  A structured suit that is designed to fit close to the body, rather than being loose. tailor-made   adj. Garment made specifically for one individual by a tailor according to the customer’s measurements; several fittings are necessary. Also called custom-made. tails   See swallow-tailed coat. tail coat

tailor   1. n. Person who makes either men’s or women’s tailored clothes, mends clothing, or does alterations. 2. v. To fit clothing for an individual; to fashion a garment. tailored   adj. Describes an item of apparel that is relatively plain and without decoration and which depends on the line and fit of the item for style.

takeover   The result of one company or individual gaining control of another company by buying a large enough portion of the company’s shares. tam   (Scottish, from tam o’ shanter) A flat cap made of two circles of wool, the bottom of which has a hole cut out for the head. Tams can also be knit, crocheted, or felted to eliminate seaming. A tam is larger than a beret, and worn on the top of the head. See also beret. tango shoe   A woman’s shoe that is cut high in the back with an ankle strap that buckles or ties.

153

T: tank swimsuit to tear sheets tank swimsuit  A one-piece bathing suit for women with a scoop neck and shoulder straps, similar to a tank top. These suits typically have no lining or inner construction.

tanning   The process of making leather from hides. Methods include vegetable tanning with tannin, mineral tanning with chrome or alum, chamois tanning with oil, and artificial methods. tap pants  Panty styled like short shorts with a slight flare at hem and often trimmed in lace. Frequently made with matching camisole.

tap pants

tank swimsuit

tank top   Similar to a man’s sleeveless undershirt, with U-neckline and deep armholes cut in at the shoulder to form narrow straps.

target cost   A pricing strategy of manipulating the fabric cost and styling features to provide a new style for a predetermined cost.

target customer  Description of the consumer for whom the fashion company is designing, creating, and marketing merchandise.

target market   A well-defined customer group to which a business wants to sell.

target marketing  The use of demographics, psychographics, generational cohort data, and customer analytics as a basis of identifying and marketing to a potential customer population. Also called customer segmentation. tariff   Tax collected by a government on the value of an imported product. The rationale for such a tax is to level the playing field between imported products and domestic products.

tank top

tankini   A two-piece swimsuit with a top that is cut like a tank top.

tartan   A repeated plaid pattern, executed in wool cloth, in specific colors that are associated with Scottish clans.

tassel   Bundle of threads, bound at one end, hung singly or in groups as ornament on belts, hats, shawls, etc.

taste   The recognition of what is and is not attractive and appropriate. Good taste in fashion means sensitivity not only to what is artistic but also to these considerations. tattersall   Plaid consisting of narrow lines in two alternating colors, crossed to form a checked design on a plain light-colored ground. tattoo   (ta-too) A form of body modification where a design is made by applying inks, dyes, or pigments, either indelible or temporary, to the skin.

TBL   Acronym for triple bottom line.

[TC]2   Acronym for textile clothing technology corporation.

tankini

tea length   Hemline ending at mid-calf to 3″–4″ (7.5–10 cm) above the ankle.

tear sheets   Clippings taken from printed magazines or newspapers.

154

T: tear-away shorts to Textile Exchange tear-away shorts  Shorts with side snaps that can be pulled open very quickly. tech pack   See specification package. technical flat   A two-dimensional drawing of a garment as it looks lying flat rather than how it looks on the body. Technical drawings include all details, including topstitching, button placement, etc. They may include drawings of close-up details of the garment; these are called callouts. Also called flat. technical obsolescence   Obsolescence created because of new technologies or material/product failure or damage. technical specifications   See tech pack. teddy   A one-piece women’s undergarment or sleep garment that combines a chemise with underpants.

ten-point grading system  Standardized method for inspecting piece goods that assigns penalty points to fabric flaws on a scale of 1 to 10 to determine if the roll will be accepted or rejected. See also four-point grading system. tensile strength   The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand strain and resist breaking. tension swatch   See swatch. tent silhouette   Apparel with a pyramid silhouette. terms of sale   Negotiated purchase agreement between a retailer and a vendor; it may include discounts, terms of delivery, availability of cooperative advertisements, and other promotional tools. terry cloth   Fabric made in a pile weave with uncut loops and a background weave of plain or twill. tertiary colors  The colors that result when secondary colors are combined. tessellation   A repeated geometric design that covers a fabric without gaps or overlap. test market  Marketing research technique whereby new products, promotions, or services are introduced in selected areas to determine their effect on sales or customer engagement. Tex   A direct numbering system for classifying thread by its diameter. Tex 24 and 27 are used for sportswear and Tex 80 is used for jean topstitch.

teddy

ten-gallon hat  A cowboy hat that is extra tall and uncreased. See cowboy hat. tennis bracelet  A flexible bracelet with one or more rows of small, uniformly sized diamonds, sometimes with other precious stones. tennis dress/skirt   Mini- or micro-skirted dress, or skirt with attached or matching brief, initially white but now also made in colors, worn by women when playing tennis. tennis shoe   A lightweight canvas or leather shoe with a rubber sole, worn for tennis or casual wear. Also called sneakers. tennis sweater  Pull-on, long-sleeved sweater, sometimes made in cable knit. Usually white and trimmed with narrow bands of maroon and navy blue at V-neck and wrists.

textile   Cloth or material made from fibers by weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, crocheting, knotting, laminating, or bonding. textile converter   Company that specializes in finishing fabrics (including printing). textile designer   A person who creates designs for knitted, printed, and woven textiles. These designs often feature repeating patterns. Textile designers use computeraided software and must have a knowledge of textile material science, design, and apparel production. They must consider how the textile will be used and therefore which properties it needs, before producing design ideas, sketches, and samples for presentation to customers. textile engineer  The position responsible for the design and development of natural and synthetic yarns, fabrics, and textiles to meet the specifications suitable for production purposes of new fabrics and improve efficiencies of established fabrics. Conducts and/or directs the laboratory testing to identify those fabrics that meet the specifications for product development. Textile Exchange  A global nonprofit that develops, manages, and promotes industry standards that enable brands and retailers to measure, manage, and track their use of preferred fibers and materials.

tennis sweater

155

T: Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA) to 3D grading system Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA)   Federal law setting labeling requirements for clothing made of textiles, which requires generic fiber identification, fiber content by percentage, manufacturer identification, and designation of country of origin.

textile laboratory technician  A position responsible for conducting established test methods for evaluating qualities and characteristics of textile fibers, yarns, and materials for specific end-use applications and quality control assurance. textile mill   Company that specializes in the fabric construction stage of production (e.g., weaving, knitting).

processes such as heat transfer, conduction, convection, condensation, and radiation. thigh highs   Nylon or nylon and spandex stockings that end at the top of the thigh and usually have elastic lace tops. thinking outside the box  An approach to problemsolving used when problems are so difficult that traditional methods do not work; a holistic approach that looks at the problem from multiple viewpoints and seeks to recognize patterns and relationships beyond what is the current norm or practice.

textile properties   Aspects and characteristics of a textile such as abrasion resistance (functional) or texture (aesthetic).

third-party audit  Factory audit conducted by individuals who work for a company or organization that is separate from either the fashion brand company or the contract factory.

textile waste  Waste textile materials created through the manufacturing, use, and discarding of textile products. Includes pre-consumer, postconsumer, and industrial textile waste.

third-party seller  In commerce, a supplier or service provider who acquires their inventory by purchasing it directly from the manufacturer, buying it from other retailers, or may be selling goods that are refurbished, stolen, or counterfeit, should have labels reading “ships from and sold by ____.” They are not directly controlled by the brand/product manufacturer or by the seller. Rules may vary by country.

textile testing   Procedures used to test the qualities and characteristics of textiles and materials.

Textile Clothing Technology Corporation ([TC]2)   An organization established by the textile and apparel industries and funded by industry and government to conduct research and educate apparel manufacturers, technologists, retailers, and educators about implementation and use of automated systems for manufacture and management in the textile and apparel industries. Among the outgrowths of its work are the concepts of agile manufacturing, long-distance learning, and the virtual factory.

textile-to-textile recycling  The process by which old garments and textiles are recovered for reuse and processed to create a new textile.

thread count  A system for reporting the number of yarns within a square inch/centimeter of a textile in the warp and weft direction. Sometimes the counts are added to give a single number: warp + weft. thong   1. Used to describe a woman’s undergarment or swimsuit cut to reveal as much of the buttocks as possible while covering the crotch. 2. Flat, often heelless sandal, held to the foot by narrow strips of leather coming up between first and second toes and attached to sole at either side.

texture   The term used to describe the surface of a fabric, which can be attributed to a combination of the fabric’s characteristics—fiber, yarn, construction, weight, and finish. textured hose   Any style of hose patterned with thicker and thinner sections (e.g., lace, striped, or windowpane hose).

textured yarn   Manufactured continuous-filament yarns permanently heat-set in crimped manner, or otherwise modified to improve its handle, increase bulk, or increase elasticity. TFPIA   Acronym for textile fiber products identification act. theme   A concept or narrative that ties together a seasonal group of clothing (e.g., nautical, African).

thermal   adj. Descriptive of garments made to provide insulation from cold.

thermal management textiles  Textiles with the ability to control the temperature of the user through

156

thong sandal

thread   A strong, slender form of yarn used for stitching garments. three armhole garment  Wraparound garment that has three armholes to secure the garment. Frequently found in dresses, tops, sweaters, and vests. 3D grading system  A complex grading system in which arc measurements require different analytics than width and length measurements (see arc measurement). Circumferential changes in size are distributed within the pattern pieces as they occur on the body rather than being equally distributed, requiring the back of a garment to be graded differently than the front.

T: 3D patternmaking software to top-weight 3D patternmaking software  Digital technology for displaying virtual images of garments based on existing patterns. Patternmakers take digitized flat patterns and virtually stitch the pieces together in order to test the design concept and fit on an avatar.

tipping   (fur) 1. Dyeing process in which only the tips of the guard hairs are colored. 2. Hand-painting the tips of sections of the hair.

3D printing   A manufacturing process in which objects are created from a digital file using an additive process of successive layers of material until the object is created.

toga dress   An asymmetric dress with one shoulder bare and the other covered, often with a drape that goes over the shoulder.

3D virtual prototyping software  The visualization of garment and fabric drape on a 3D avatar. Users can choose and modify garments, apply fabric properties, and test garment design modifications on a 3D fit model or their personal avatar for the purpose of visualizing garment design or facilitating digital purchases. thrift store  Type of resale retailer that acquires merchandise through donations and then resells the merchandise at very low prices. tie   A piece of cloth that is tied with a knot at the throat and worn under a shirt collar. Primarily worn by men, there are a variety of styles including the ascot, four-inhand, half Windsor, Windsor, and bow tie. tie-dyed print  Handmade print created by gathering the fabric and tying at intervals, then immersing in dye that does not penetrate the tied areas. When untied, reveals a pattern of irregular designs. tiered skirt  A skirt made with a series of flounces cut either in circular style or on the straight grain and gathered. Each flounce is usually cut larger than the previous one.

tiered skirt

tights   Knitted hosiery made of opaque textured yarns. Worn originally by athletes and dancers, later adopted by women and girls as a substitute for hose. time and action calendar  The primary planning and control tool used in developing a seasonal line. This calendar works backward from nonnegotiable market dates and delivery deadlines to determine ongoing deadlines throughout the product development process. tint   A color mixed with white to lighten the value. Colors mixed with black create values referred to as shades.

tissue   Descriptive of lightweight, semitransparent fabric (e.g., tissue gingham, tissue taffeta).

toile   (twal) (French) 1. A pattern that is made up into a prototype to test styling and fit. Also called muslin. 2. A print pattern consisting of a white or off-white background on which a pattern depicting a fairly complex pastoral theme or arrangement of flowers is printed in a single color—usually blue, red, black, or brown. The full term is “toile de Jouy.” tolerance   A range of acceptable variations from the dimensional measurements called for in the size specifications. Tolerance is stated as a + or − in inches or metric dimensions. tongue   Part of Oxford shoe or lace-up sneaker under the lacing. tooled leather  A technique for embellishing leather with a hand-stamped pattern. top   Casual garment worn on the upper torso of the body. Includes T-shirts, tank tops, and halters and frequently made of knits. Tops are aalways made of cut and sew construction. top grain  In the leather industry, the first split (see split) from grain side of leather. top hat   Man’s tall hat made of shiny silk or beaver cloth with narrow brim. Differs from an opera hat in that the latter is always collapsible and made of dull silk.

top hat

topcoat   Man’s or woman’s lightweight coat in any style, designed to wear over suit jacket or dress. topless   adj. Descriptive of women’s styles that bare the body above the waist. topstitching   Stitching visible from the outer or “top” side of a garment that consists of one or more rows of machine stitching made through all layers of fabric. top-weight   Textiles typically weighing less than 6.0 ounces per square yard (203 g/m2), chosen for blouses, soft dresses, knit tops, etc.

topstitched seam

157

T: toque to train toque   See beanie. toreador jacket   (tor-ay′-ah-dor) Waist-length woman’s jacket with epaulet shoulder trimming, frequently braidtrimmed and worn unfastened. Adapted from jackets of bullfighters in Spain and Mexico. toreador pants  (tor-ay-ah-door′) Tight-fitting, belowthe-knee pants patterned after those worn by Spanish bullfighters. torso   The trunk of the human body, not including the head, arms, or legs. tossed   Describes a pattern in which elements such as flowers are scattered randomly within the unit of repeat. tossed layout   See random layout. tote   Any large bag with an open top and handle, large enough to carry small packages, sometimes with an inner zippered compartment for money. Copied from shape of common paper shopping bag.

tote bag

TPP   Acronym for trans-pacific partnership. trace-off   See rub-off. track pants  Flat-front, straight-leg running pants with an elastic waist; often designed with side zippers or snaps on the outer seam so athletes can remove their pants without taking off their shoes. trade association   Nonprofit organization that does any or all of the following: conducts research for an industry, promotes the interests of an industry, or provides educational services on behalf of member companies from that industry. Examples include the American Society for Testing and Materials and the National Retail Federation.

trade only   Events and venues open only to those in the textiles and apparel industry, including trade shows, forecasting presentation, and fabric libraries. Trade Preference Program   Trade programs legislated by the US Congress that allow selected goods to be imported into the United States from certain countries in Africa, South America, and the Caribbean whose economies are struggling, providing that the countries use textiles sourced in the United States. trade publication  A publication (print and/or digital) such as a newspaper, newsletter, or magazine that is targeted to the professionals within a particular industry. trade secrets  Any competitively sensitive information regarding the way a business conducts itself or develops its product. trade show   Periodic event sponsored by trade association, wholesale mart, and/or promotional company, to allow companies to promote their newest products to prospective buyers who have the opportunity to review new products of a number of companies. trademark   Any word, name, symbol, device, or combination thereof that is adopted and used by a manufacturer or merchant to identify goods and distinguish them from those manufactured and sold by others. When trademarks are registered they may not be used for the same type of product by any other individual or firm and are written with the symbol ® or™. trademark infringement   Illegal use of a trademark or service mark; use without the permission of the owner of the trademark or service mark. traditional dress/clothing  The dress of a particular culture. train   Elongated back portion of woman’s skirt that lies on the floor and is pulled along behind by wearer. Worn for formal evenings and traditionally a part of bridal gowns.

trade discount   The amount deducted from the suggested retail price by the wholesaler during negotiations for sale of bulk goods to the retailer. trade dress  Subset of trademark law; it allows brand owners to protect the way a product looks, its logo, or the way it is presented (packaging), and to prevent others from trading on their reputation, image, and customers’ goodwill. trade name   A name that a business assigns to a product for purposes of identification in promotion and commence. Trade names have no legal protection, unlike registered trademarks.

158

train

T: training and development manager to trickle-across theory training and development manager   A position that oversees staff and plans, directs, and coordinates programs to enhance the knowledge and skills of a fashion brand company’s employees. Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP)   A proposed trade agreement between the United States and the European Community in which, if signed, duty would be lowered on goods from Europe, markets would open to US goods, and labeling would become more standard.

fibers from pre-consumer and postconsumer waste. It also pioneered a whole new way of developing materials. travel bag   See flight bag. trench coat  A coat that originated during World War I for soldiers, designed by Thomas Burberry. Typical features include double-breasted, convertible collar, large lapels, epaulets, fabric belt, slotted pockets, storm flaps, and a back vent.

translucent   adj. Describes the quality of being semitransparent: some light can pass through a surface because the surface is neither fully transparent nor fully opaque. transparency   Operating in a way that encourages open sharing of information regarding products, processes, and management with all stakeholders. transparent   adj. Describes fabrics through which light passes so that objects behind may be seen clearly. Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP)  A proposed trade agreement among 12 nations on the Pacific Rim to lower duty on categories that still remain protected under the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), seeking to unify and liberalize economic policy and strengthen regulations of e-commerce and intellectual property and privacy to create an alliance somewhat like the European Union. transshipment   An illegal practice of shipping goods made in one country with the label of a country with more favorable export agreements. trapeze   adj. Unfitted top or dress made with narrow shoulders that gradually widens, somewhat like a pyramid, to a very wide hem.

trench coat

trench styling   Dresses, jackets, and vests that adapt the style details of a trench coat. trend   The direction in which something (ideas, products, values) tends to move, in a way that both reflects and affects culture, society, or business. In fashion, identifiable similarities across information sources related to styles, details, or other aspects of appearance characterized by a building awareness of this new look and an accelerating demand among consumers. trend boards  Collections of images, swatches, color chips, and other items arranged physically on boards or digitally; these are used to identify the mood or spirit of seasonal collections still in the planning stage. trend map  Part of a forecaster’s tool kit, a framework that identifies where an emerging trend is coming from, what current events support the trend, why it’s important, and to whom it appeals. trend research  Determining current directions for color, fabric, and fashions by reading the fashion press, subscribing to trend forecasting services, shopping the market, and otherwise keeping up with the latest fashion developments.

trapeze dress

trapunto   (tra-poont′-oh) Type of quilting in which design is outlined and then stuffed from the back of the fabric to achieve a raised or embossed effect. Trash-to-Cash Project  A European Union–funded research project which aimed to create new regenerated

trend tracking  Real-time monitoring of fashion products in terms of colors, materials, and silhouettes. triad   A color harmony that combines three colors which are equally spaced on the color wheel—the primary triad is red, blue, and yellow; the secondary triad is orange, green, and violet. trickle-across theory   See horizontal-flow theory.

159

T: trickle-down theory to tunic skirt trickle-down theory   See downward-flow theory. trickle-up theory   See upward-flow theory. trim   Decorative material, surface treatment, or detail such as buttons, braids, and lace, that are used to embellish a garment.

T-strap shoe/sandal   Shoe made with a strap coming up from the vamp to join second strap across the instep, forming a T.

trim sheet  Listing and specifications of all trims to be used in manufacturing a garment/product. trimmings   All the materials—excluding the fabric—used in the construction of a garment, including braid, bows, buckles, buttons, elastic, interfacing, padding, self-belts, thread, zippers, etc. triple bottom line (TBL)   A strategy whereby businesses cost and source their products with consideration of environmental stewardship and social responsibility as well as bottom-line profit. trompe l’oeil   (French, “fool the eye”) A technique used in painting and in fashion where the viewer expects the authentic feel of the object that is depicted. trousers   Any full-length pants. true   v. To blend and adjust seamlines between the graded cardinal points so that the line characteristics of the sample-size pattern is retained, and seams and notches on corresponding pieces match. trumpet   adj. Describes garments or garment parts that flare out at the bottom. Their shape is like that of the musical instrument the trumpet.

T-strap shoe

TTIP   Acronym for transatlantic trade and investment partnership. tube   adj. Describes any garment made of stretch fabric that clings to the body with no closing and is typically strapless. tubular   Machine knitting cast-on where the first few rows are created with double knitting, creating a little tube that prevents rolling and gives the hem elasticity and stability. tuck   A means of controlling fullness of a garment in which part of the garment piece is made smaller by folding the fabric and stitching a line parallel to the fold. At the place where the tuck ends, fullness is released. tulip sleeve   A set-in sleeve that overlaps at the top and has a shaped hem to form a petal-like shape.

tulip sleeve

trumpet skirt

trunk show   Marketing strategy by which vendors present merchandise directly to store personnel and/or customers at a retail location or another venue before it is made available to customers for the purpose of taking orders. trunks   Men’s brief loose shorts worn for swimming, boxing, and track with drawstring at waist.

tulle   (tool) Fine, sheer net fabric made of silk, nylon, linen, or rayon with hexagonal holes. Used unstarched for wedding veils and millinery and starched for ballet costumes. tunic   Garment that ends somewhere between the hip and the calf and is designed to be worn over another garment, such as pants, skirt, bloomers, or dress.

T-shirt dress   Simple knit dress styled like an elongated T-shirt. T-shirt/tee shirt  Originally a white undershirt worn by men with a round neck and set-in sleeves, made out of cotton knit, with the shape of a T when laid out flat. Adapted for men, women, and children in a variety of colors with both short and long sleeves. Frequently screen-printed with names, slogans, or other graphics. 160

tunic blouse

tunic skirt  Double-layered skirt with the overskirt cut shorter than the underskirt.

tunic skirt

T: turban to two-way stretch turban   1. A long piece of cloth that is wound around the head; worn by Sikh  men  and by some Hindu and Muslim men. 2. Adaptation of this draped hat for women has become a classic style.

tuxedo collar  Shawl or tailored collar with satin or faille lapels borrowed from shawl collar of men’s dinner jacket. tuxedo pants   Pants or jeans with embellishment down the side seam similar to a man’s formal tuxedo. tweed   Fabric made in plain, twill, or herringbone weave in various weights for coats, jackets, and suits. Originally hand-loomed in homes along the Tweed River in Scotland.

turban

turnaround time  The lead time required for making, dyeing, and finishing fabric in order to meet the delivery date determined by the production schedule. turndown collar   Any collar that folds over on the garment or on itself, as contrasted with stand type. turned-back cuff   Turned-back extension of the sleeve. Sleeve is cut longer and a section is turned up to form a cuff. turnover   Describes how much stock is sold and replaced, related to the revenue received in sales for a stated period. turtleneck/turtleneck collar   Stand collar, usually knitted, that fits very close to the neck and rolls over, sometimes twice.

tween market  A market geared toward younger teens that provides age-appropriate products for a developing figure. twenties   See flapper. twinset   See sweater set. 2D grading system  A simplified grading system that distributes the circumferential changes in size equally between the back and the front pieces. Loose-fitting garments are more successfully graded with a 2D system than are close-fitting garments. two-piece sleeve  A sleeve typically found in tailored apparel that is cut in two pieces. The angles of the seam accommodate the curvature of the arm at the elbow, replacing the dart in a fitted one-piece sleeve. Also called suit sleeve, tailored sleeve.

tussah   (tuss′-ah) (Also tasar, tusser, tussas, tussus) Coarse, irregular silk from wild Asian silkworms, used to make pongee and shantung. The silkworm, the fiber, the yarn, and also the fabric made from the yarn are all called by this name. tutu   Ballet dancer’s multilayered very short skirt of net or tulle.

two-piece sleeve

two-way stretch  Fabric that stretches in either the lengthwise or crosswise direction but not both. tutu

tuxedo   Man’s formal, fingertip-length jacket and pants made with satin or faille lapels and side stripes on pants. Made in black or midnight blue in winter, white jacket with dark pants in summer. Traditionally worn with cummerbund and black bow tie. Abbreviated as tux. Also called black tie.

161

162

U: UGC to unit production system (UPS) provide a more comfortable layer between the skin of the wearer and the outer clothing. Undergarments may serve to give shape to the outer garments either through constricting the body or providing support to the clothing. Although generally unseen, parts of undergarments may sometimes be a visible element of a costume. underlap   Extension beyond the edge of the bottom layer of a garment that provides additional space for a button or other closure without affecting the finished size of a garment. underlining   Lining variation in which the outer shell fabric and the lining are layered together before the garment is constructed. Used to stabilize shell fabrics or make the shell fabric opaque. underlying fabrics   A term used to refer to fabrics used in the inner construction of garments, such as interfacings (interlinings), underlinings, and linings. UGC   Acronym for user-generated content. ultrasonic sewing  Sewing accomplished by special machines that use ultrasonic sound waves that create heat as a result of vibrations, which fuses heat-sensitive fabrics together without the use of needles and thread. Advantages: eliminates use of needles and thread, also eliminates seam slippage. umbrella   Accessory used as a protection against the rain or sun.

underpants   Undergarment for lower half of the body with separate space for insertion of each leg. Made in many different styles. underpressing   Pressing during garment assembly that facilitates production and increases quality level. undershirt   Knitted shirt, usually white cotton, with U-neckline continued into built-up straps, or with short sleeves and crew or V-neckline, worn underneath outer shirt or sweater.

umbrella pleats   Widely spaced pleats similar to accordion pleats but larger, like the folds of an umbrella. Usually worked on circular-cut or gored garments.

underwire bra  A bra that incorporates a semicircular strip of metal, plastic, or resin sewn into the seam under the cup from the center gore to the armpit in order to lift, separate, shape, and support the bust.

unbleached muslin   Sized cotton utility fabric woven in a plain weave of carded yarns and sold in the unbleached or gray state (see gray goods). Used by fashion designers when draping garments on dress forms. After garment is designed, it is taken apart and the muslin pieces are used as a pattern.

uneven plaid   A plaid that when folded down the middle of a repeat, either horizontally or vertically, does not match.

undercapitalization   A situation where a company or brand does not have sufficient capital or access to capital to conduct normal business operations and pay creditors. This occurs when the company is not generating enough cash flow or is unable to access financing based on its current equity.

uniform   Any specific type of apparel required for wear by the armed forces of a country, for a specialized occupation, by a school, or for competitive team sports.

uniform grades   Grading systems in which the dimensional changes in the bust, waist, and hip are equal for each size in the range. For example, if the bust grade is 1″ (2.5 cm) then the waist and hip grades are also 1″ (2.5 cm). This results in the same body shape (rectangle, pear, inverted pear, hour glass) for all sizes.

underdrawing   A well-proportioned pose that can be slid under a page and used as a template to help control proportions and the location of garment details. When using an underdrawing, the design idea is drawn first and then the visible head, arms, and legs are added. There is no need to draw in facial features or hair. Also called lay figure. undergarment   Item of apparel worn under the outer garments. These garments serve many functions. They may protect the outer clothing from being soiled or

unique selling point   A product characteristic that differentiates the product from its competitors. unisex fashions   Garments designed so that they may be worn by either men or women.

unit production system (UPS)  Garment manufacturing system in which garments are transported on a conveyer belt or overhead system to a sewing operator who performs one or more sewing operations, then forwards the garment to the next workstation for the next construction step. 163

U: unitard to utility patent unitard   One-piece bodysuit made of knitted fabric. Combines leotards and tights into one suit. Worn for exercising and aerobics.

upward-flow theory  The theory of fashion adoption that holds that the young—particularly those of lowincome families as well as those of higher income who adopt low-income lifestyles—are quicker than any other social group to create or adopt new and different fashions. Also called trickle-up theory.

United States Customs Service  US Department of Treasury agency responsible for the administration of import-export regulations and the implementation of tariff duties, quotas, and labeling requirements. unity   A design principle that describes a piece where all aspects of the design are integrated and harmonious.

usage   Fabric utilization or amount of fabric needed for the production marker.

unitard

universal design   Also called inclusive design. universal product code (UPC)  A bar-coding system used to electronically identify merchandise; a 12-digit number that identifies the manufacturer and merchandise item by stock-keeping unit. unlimited liability   Situation in which owners of a company are personally liable for debts incurred by the business; often the case in sole proprietorships and in some partnerships. UPC   Acronym for universal product code. upcycling   Process by which discarded materials/items are transformed to create products with a higher value than what was being discarded without changing the composition of the original material. updated classics  Apparel items that are derived from some classic style (e.g., chemise, shirtwaist, cardigan, blazer) and changed in some way to give them a more contemporary appearance. UPS   Acronym for unit production system. upstream activities   Steps in the supply chain that originate early on in the process, such as textile manufacture.

164

user experience  How a consumer feels about their overall engagement with a digital platform. If they found the platform easy to navigate and the content beneficial, they will likely be back. If they have a frustrating experience or the experience is not sufficiently personalized, they may find other platforms that better meet their needs. user interface  The point at which human users interact with a computer, website, or application to receive a desired outcome. A successful user interface is easy and intuitive, requiring a minimum of effort. user-generated content (UGC)  Any content created by people, rather than brands. This may include text, videos, images, reviews, etc. Brands often share usergenerated content on their own social media accounts, websites, and other marketing channels. utilitarian properties  Characteristics that make the product useful to the consumer, including safety properties such as resistance to flame or chemicals; value properties such as low cost, easy care, and durability; and comfort properties such as stretch, flexibility, softness, weight, and thermal management. utility patent  Patent granted for an invention or discovery of new and useful processes, machines, or manufactured products; or new and useful improvements to these processes, machines, or products.

V: value to vest veiling   Nets of various sizes made in different constructions to form open-weave fabrics that are used for trimming on hats. Velcro®   Trademark for a tape woven with minute nylon hooks that mesh with loops on opposite tape. Used on children’s and adults’ clothing, sportswear, and shoes. First used by astronauts. Generic term for this type of closure is “hook and loop.” vendor   The individual or company from which raw materials or finished goods are purchased. Also called source, supplier. vendor compliance  The evaluation of vendor performance in delivering products that meet clients’ standards and specifications. value   The lightness or darkness of a color achieved by adding white or black to a hue to obtain a tint or a shade. value chain  Supply chain with a process orientation whereby each step in creating a fashion product is completed in a way that adds value to the product. A value chain implies greater collaboration and respect between all participants. value-added   Product or service characteristics that are more desirable to consumers and will help a brand command higher prices over basic product or over competitor’s products. vamp   The front part of a shoe, covering the toes and instep. vanity sizing  The practice of labeling larger sizes with smaller size tags in order to make the customer feel better about their purchase. variable costs  Costs that increase or decrease in direct proportion to the number and complexity of units produced. variable grade  Grade increments that vary depending upon whether a 1″, 1½″, or 2″ (2.5 cm, 4 cm, or 5 cm) grade is required for the specified size. variegated   Having an unevenly colored, spotted, or streaked appearance. vat dyes  Chemically produced dyes that are water insoluble and extremely light- and wash-fast. vegetable tanning   Tanning process that produces various shades of orange- and beige-colored leathers. Basic ingredients include vegetable products such as bark, leaves, nuts, tannic acid, and twigs. Great disadvantage is the length of time involved for tanning, which runs between four and six months. veil   1. Decorative accessory usually made of lace, net, tulle, or sheer fabric placed on the head and usually draped down the back. May also drape over the face and shoulders. 2. Piece of net or tulle attached to a hat.

vendor matrix   A list of approved suppliers based on their proven ability to meet order specifications regarding time, quality and price. Also called key resource list. vendor-induced incentives  Inducements provided by a vendor to a retailer or store personnel that will influence the sale of the vendor’s products. These can include such services as training, trunk shows, educational material, and contests. vendor-managed replenishment (VMR)  Programs whereby the fashion brand company (vendor) reviews retail sales/stockout data and orders replenishments as often as required. vendor-managed retail inventory  Programs developed between a vendor and a retailer in which retail sales and stock data are reviewed by the manufacturer and additional merchandise is provided as required. vent   An opening in a garment that allows for greater movement. They are typically seen vertically in the back of jackets, coats, skirts, and dresses. versioning   The ability to tailor versions of a catalog to different customer segments based on age, income, and product preferences. vertical integration  The degree to which a company owns its supply chain partners; a strategy that seeks to consolidate a supply chain by acquiring companies at other stages in the supply chain. A fully vertical manufacturer seeks to control the processes previously handled by specialized firms so that one conglomerate can perform all the steps of production or distribution (or both). vertically worked  Fur skins that are first let out, and then sewn together so that each skin runs from top of fur coat to hem. vest   An item of apparel extending to the waist or below that is similar to a sleeveless jacket. Usually worn over a blouse or shirt and sometimes under a suit jacket. Also called waistcoat (in the UK), weskit.

vest

165

V: vestments to V-neckline vestments   1. Items of apparel worn particularly for ecclesiastical services and by clergy. 2. Ceremonial or official robe. Also called clerical dress. orphery chasuble

maniple

virtual try-on technology  Digital applications using augmented reality (AR) that enable a customer to try on a product through their mobile device or other devices equipped with a camera. Customers are able to see themselves in a product they like, on the screen, before deciding whether or not to purchase. The most sophisticated of these technologies actually enables the customer to assess fit. viscose   A regenerated cellulose fiber made by treating cellulose with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide; one of the first large-scale manufactured fibers.

stole

alb vestments

videoconferencing   Allows for businesses and employees to communicate with one another from different locations for a variety of purposes, including staff training, vendor conferences, and product development. viewing geometry  The placement of a sample relative to the light source and measuring lens in a spectrophotometer. vintage fashions   Clothing and accessories from another era that are refurbished and sold, or new clothing and accessories that mimic another era. vinyl   See PVC. viral marketing  A type of marketing designed to encourage customers to share information about a company’s products or services via the internet. This form of marketing is thought to be more authentic because it comes directly from the consumer, spreads the message more quickly, and is generally less expensive. virgin materials   Textile materials that are grown or extracted in their raw form and are being used for the first time, as opposed to recycled materials which have been collected, sorted, and are reused. The pace at which we are currently using virgin materials is not sustainable. virtual prototype  Computer-created simulation of a fabric draped three-dimensionally over an image of a garment as shown on a body or mannequin. virtual shopping events  An online experience designed to promote product to existing and/or new customers. An event might feature a new product line, a webinar with a representative from a brand, or a show

166

and tell of new product in-store; a discount for all attendees provides an incentive to buy.

visible panty lines  A situation where the outline of a person’s underpants are visible through their outerwear. visible spectrum   The range of colors the human eye can see, which can be distinguished from each other through their different ranges of wavelengths of radiant energy. vision statement  A component of the strategic plan that outlines the organization’s goals for the future and how it wants the world to see its brand. Some companies combine their mission and vision statements, but while a mission statement generally remains constant, reflecting the core values of the founder(s), a vision statement may need to be reviewed when goals have been reached or market conditions change (see also mission statement). visor   Stiffened part of a semicircle attached to a headband or to front of a cap to protect eyes from the sun. Also called bill. visual merchandising   The visible environment of a retail store that contributes to the promotion and sale of merchandise. Included are the exterior appearance of the store, window displays, interior decor, signage, lighting, and displays of merchandise. vlogging   A blog where most of the content is video. VMR   Acronym for vendor-managed replenishment. voluntary sizing standard   Sizing standards published by government and trade-supported organizations for use as a guide to garment sizing but are not enforced as a mandate. Each brand may determine size standards for their own specific brands. V-neckline   Neckline cut down in front or in back to a sharp point resembling the letter V.

W: Wacom tablet to warp knitting wale   1. In textiles, a ridge in woven fabric running either vertically (e.g., in Bedford cord and corduroy), crosswise in faille, or diagonally in twills (e.g., gabardine and whipcord). 2. In knitting, describes row of loops or stitches running lengthwise. walking coat  Knee-length, single-breasted coat with a notched collar. walking shoe  Any comfortable shoe made with a flexible upper that provides good support and a cushioned sole. Walkers hit the ground first with their heel and roll through the step; the shoe sole is designed for this movement. walking shorts   See Bermuda shorts. Wacom tablet  A trademarked brand of computerized drawing tablets that allow for direct transfer of hand drawing into a computer program. waders   Pants and boot in one piece reaching to above waist, with suspenders over shoulders. waffle cloth/waffle pique  Cotton fabric made in a honeycomb weave. waistband   Band of fabric, usually faced and interfaced, seamed to waistline of skirt or pants and fastened to hold garment firmly around waist.

waltz length   Hemline ending at mid-calf. Often used to describe nightgowns and robes. See also tea length. wardrobe consultant  A professional who is compensated for advising the consumer on the selection of personal clothing. warehouse club  Retailer that reduces operating expenses and offers goods at discount prices by combining the showroom, warehouse, and retail operations, and for which customers pay a membership fee for access (e.g., Costco, Sam’s Club). warehouse retailer  Retailer who combines showroom, warehouse, and retail operations so as to reduce operating expenses and to offer apparel at discount prices. Not all warehouse retailers are warehouse clubs that charge a fee. warm   Colors that are yellow-based oranges and reds to violets, occupy half of the color wheel, and convey associations with the sun or fire.

waistband

waistcoat   See vest.

warm-up   adj. Describes apparel, most often jackets, pants, or jumpsuits, modeled after those worn by athletes when warming up for sports events. Generally made of knitted fabrics, jackets have raglan sleeves and zipper-front closings; pants have drawstring or elastic waists and elastic or knitted cuffs at ankles. warm-up pants   See sweatpants. warp   The yarns or threads that run lengthwise on a textile loom to create the base structure of the textile. On finished piece goods, warp yarns can be identified as parallel to the selvedge. Garments cut with the warp running vertical to the ground are on the warp or lengthwise grain.

shawl-collared waistcoat

waistline   1. A position on the body between the top of the hip bone and the bottom of the rib cage. 2. Horizontal seam joining the top and skirt of a dress if the garment is made in two pieces. Waistlines are not necessarily located at the anatomical waist.

warp knits  Textiles knitted from multiple yarns arranged in the warp direction which are pulled in many directions to interconnect with other loops, forming stable, strong fabrics. warp knitting  A form of knitting done by machines in which each needle is fed by a separate yarn; warp knitting is the fastest means of knitting fabric. Warp knits are resistant to runs and characterized by loops that interlace vertically. 167

W: warp print to weft knitting warp print  Design printed on warp yarns before fabric is woven, producing a softly blurred effect with fuzzy edges. Also called chiné, ikat.

wear-testing   A variation of style testing, where prototype garments are worn by potential users to test functionality. It is particularly useful in the active sportswear category. weave   1. v. The process of interlocking crosswise and lengthwise threads, called the warp and weft, to form fabric on a loom. 2. n. A specific pattern for interlocking the warp and weft threads to produce texture and visual interest.

warp print

warranty/warrantee   Written document that ensures the life of a product for a specific period of time. waste feedstock  A recycling process that can be used with mixtures of different textile materials without prior sorting, or with multi-fiber textiles, which would otherwise only be processed in waste-to-energy plants. The polymeric structure of the textile waste is broken down into very small pieces either thermally or chemically and then reprocessed into a new fabric. This is similar to the rayon process (see rayon). watch fob  Short chain, ribbon, or charm, frequently engraved with initials, attached to man’s pocket watch. Named for the trouser pocket in which the watch is carried, called a fob pocket (see change pocket). watch pocket   See change pocket. water resistant/repellent  adj. Describes clothing of fabric or leather treated to shed water easily and dry quickly—not entirely waterproof. waterfall hemline  A high-low hemline where the length of the garment is shorter in the front than it is in the back.

web developer   A person who designs and creates websites for the fashion brand company. This position is responsible for the look of the site as well as the site’s technical aspects, such as its performance and capacity. In addition, they may create content for the site and/or work with others in the company in creating content. web portal   See portal. wedding band   A ring worn by men and women on the third finger of the left hand to symbolize the commitment made to each other in a wedding ceremony. wedding dress   Any dress worn by the bride for a wedding ceremony. Since about the 1840s, brides’ dresses have been traditionally white and floor-length, with or without a train. Also called bridal dress. wedding garter  Decorative garter, usually blue satin trimmed with lace, worn by brides. The tradition is to toss it to an unmarried man at the reception. wedge dress  Dress cut with very full, large shoulders and dolman sleeves. Entire dress tapers to hemline in a V or wedge shape. wedge heel  Slanted heel made in one piece with the sole of the shoe. Comes in low, medium, and high heights.

waterless dyeing   A textile dyeing process that uses no water and less energy than standard dyeing processes. waterproof   adj. Descriptive of clothing, usually of rubber, plastic, or heavily coated fabric, that cannot be penetrated by water, especially boots and coats. See also water resistant/repellent. wearable art  Beginning as a trend in the 1970s, a garment created as a unique work of art. Fiber artists combine a variety of techniques such as crocheting, knitting, hand-weaving, embroidery, appliqué, layers, felting, knotting, slashing, and special dyeing techniques. Feathers, beads, and ribbons are also used. wearable textiles/technology/devices   Portable smart devices that are worn on the body that are able to detect, analyze, and transmit information. wearing ease   See functional ease.

168

wedge heel

weekender   Woman’s three-or four-piece suit including coordinated pants, skirt, jacket, and blouse, suitable for weekend trips. weft   Yarns are carried across a woven textile loom in a shuttle and interlace at right angles to the warp. Garments cut with the weft running vertical to the ground are on the weft or cross grain. weft knitting  Knitting that uses one continuous yarn across a row of loops or a course; weft knitting can be done by hand or machine and can produce flat or circular

W: weight to wing collar fabric. The three general categories of weft knitting are single knits, purl knits, and rib knits. weight   Measured by cutting a swatch of a specific size and putting it on a scale, and then calculating the number of ounces per yard/grams per meter. Also a guide to what is appropriate for a product. Wellington boot   1. Knee- or calf-length rubber or rubberized boot worn in wet conditions. 2. Calf-length or below-the-knee boot with a seam below ankle making it look like a top has been joined to a men’s low shoe, with a long, tongue-like projection at vamp. Seams also extend down the sides of the boot to the ankle with boot loops at top. Usually made of water-repellent leather with oak-tanned soles and rubber heels, sometimes leather-lined. welt pocket  An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt that may be ¾″–1″ (2–2.5 cm) wide. Often used for breast pockets on the left front of a man’s suit coat or overcoat and called a besom pocket. 2. Double welt pockets have ¼” (0.5 cm) welts on both edges of the pocket which meet in the middle. This pocket may be called a bound pocket or a besom pocket.

appliquéd leather or exotic leathers. Also called cowboy boot. wetsuit   Garment made of neoprene, a synthetic rubber, that is used for protection against cold water in cowboy boot sports such as scuba diving, windsurfing, and white-water rafting. It is generally available in one- or two-piece style. whitework   Embroidery executed in white thread on a white textile. whole garment production system   See makethrough production system. wholesale brands   Brands whose products are designed, produced, and marketed under a proprietary label and distributed to retailers or third parties who sell them to the final consumer. Mass merchants, department stores, specialty stores, chain stores, and boutiques frequently carry wholesale brands. wholesale mart  Building or group of buildings that house showrooms in which sales representatives show merchandise lines to retail buyers. wholesale price   The amount charged by a product developer or manufacturer when the product is sold to a retailer or distributor. This price is based on the cost to the manufacturer of producing the goods, plus profit. wholesale selling  Sales directly to consumers by a manufacturer. wholesaler   The individual or company that sells goods in relatively large quantities to a retailer or, less often, directly to consumers. The wholesaler may be a manufacturer or a middleman.

welt pocket

wicking   The ability of a fabric to carry the moisture of perspiration away from the skin.

weskit   See vest. western   adj. Descriptive of styles worn by western US cowboys and promoted around the world by western movies. Characterized by tight jeans, high-heeled boots, cowboy shirts, and western hats of various styles.  A western arrowhead pocket  bound pocket that is curved with arrowhead appliqués or tacks on either end, used on shirts and dresses to convey a western look. western boot  Mid-calf or calf-high boot with a pointed or rounded toe and an angled stacked heel 1″ (2.5 cm) or higher. The top edge of the shaft is shaped forming a dip in the front for ease of movement. May be two-toned and frequently made of tooled or

windbreaker   A lightweight nylon jacket with a closefitting waistband and cuffs worn to protect the wearer from wind and rain. It typically has a hood that may zip into the collar when not in use. window displays   An important element of visual merchandising. Traditional store window displays have solid backings and are called closed displays. They are visible when the store is open or closed. Open displays are common displays in malls and enable the viewer to see directly into the store through the display. Windsor tie   Regular man’s necktie tied in four-in-hand style with a more complicated, larger knot. Der. Called a Windsor knot after Duke of Windsor, who made it popular in early 1920s. wing collar  Stiff collar fitting high around neck with turned-down points in front; sometimes worn with man’s full dress or daytime formal wear.

western style

169

W: WIP to WTO World Trade Organization (WTO)  Organization that succeeded the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) in regulating international trade in all areas, including textiles and apparel. Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP)   An independent, nonprofit organization dedicated to the certification of lawful, humane, and ethical manufacturing throughout the world. worsted wool  Wools made from combed and carded fibers. wing collar

WIP   Acronym for work-in-process. wires   Earrings for pierced ears that have a thin curved wire that passes through the ear with dangling objects attached to the wire. wish list  A tool that allows digital shoppers to create personalized collections of products they want to buy and save them in their user account for easier access at a later date. wool   1. The dense hair of sheep, goats, and some other hoofed animals that can be sheared and spun to produce a natural yarn. 2. The fabric made from these yarns. Wool Products Labeling Act  US law that requires products containing wool to be labeled as either wool, new wool, or virgin wool, all of which have never been used before, or recycled wool, which has been made into products and returned to the fibrous state. Contents of the various types of wool must be properly stated on a label for the customer by percentage. If content is less than 5 percent, it need not be labeled. worked buttonhole  Buttonhole made by covering the raw edges of a slit in the fabric with hand or machine stitches. In hand-worked buttonholes, the slit is cut first and the raw edges are finished with a buttonhole stitch. Machine-made buttonholes are stitched with a zigzag stitch first, then cut open. The ends of the buttonhole may be finished with a straight bar tack on both ends, or one end may be finished with a keyhole opening where the button sits when the closure is buttoned. bartack buttonhole

oval buttonhole

tailored buttonhole

work-in-process (WIP)  The quantity of goods in the process of being assembled in the sewing factory at a given time. workmanship   The quality of the construction techniques used in fashion design. workout suit   See aerobic wear.

170

woven textiles/wovens  Constructed on looms with two or more sets of yarns, the warp and the weft, interlaced at right angles to each other. WRAP   Acronym for worldwide responsible apparel production. wrap   1. v. To drape an outer garment around the body in various ways. 2. n. A garment put on when going out of doors (e.g., a shawl, scarf, cloak, or mantle). 3. adj. In contemporary usage, a shortened form of the word “wraparound," used to describe garments that wrap. Also called wraparound. wrapped-leg pants  Pants designed with extra fabric from the side seam extending across the front leg; extension may begin at the hip or further down the leg.

wrapped-leg pants

wrinkle resistance  Ability of fabric to resist creasing. Many fabrics made from manufactured fibers are resistant to wrinkling. Special finishing processes can be used on fabrics that wrinkle to make them more crease resistant. written warranty   A legally binding written claim by the brand that a product will perform in a particular way. WTO   Acronym for World Trade Organization.

Y: yard to yuppie merchandise to be in one of the member countries or the trade agreement. yarn number   A measurement that reflects the fineness of a yarn, expressed either indirectly or directly. The systems used vary from place to place but in general indirect measurement tends to be used for spun yarns, lower numbers indicating heavier and thicker yarns while higher numbers indicate finer yarns. Direct measurements tend to be used for filament and manufactured fibers, lower numbers indicating finer yarns and higher numbers indicating thicker yarns. The international system of yarn measurement is called the Tex System and is a direct yarn numbering system. yard   Unit of measurement used in the United States comprising 36″ or 3′ (91.4 cm), used to measure fabric. yard goods   See piece goods. yarmulke   (yahr-muhl’-kuh) A skullcap worn in public by Orthodox Jewish men or during prayer by other Jewish men. yarn   Long, thin arrangements of fibers, suitable for being fabricated into textiles, held together by twisting. yarn-dyed   adj. Describes fabric that is woven or knitted from yarns dyed before the fabric is constructed. yarn forward rule of origin  Stipulation to a trade agreement that requires yarn production and all operations “forward”—fabrics and production—of

yoga pants   Pants made of a fabric with give to allow the wearer to flex, bend, and move. yoke   1. Portion of garment fitted across the shoulders—in front, back, or both—to which the lower front and back sections are attached. 2. Fitted top of a skirt or pants to which the lower part of the skirt may be attached. 3. adj. Describes apparel that incorporates a yoke.

yoked skirt

yuppie   A nickname applied to young, upwardly mobile professionals who work in fields such as the law and business. Der. Derived from the first letters of ‘young urban professional’ + ‘-ie’.

171

172

Z: zeitgeist to zouave pants zip pocket  Any pocket closed with a zipper; used particularly on sportswear. zip-in/zip-out lining   Completely removable lining inserted into a coat by means of a zipper or buttons and buttonholes around the coat facing to make a dual-purpose coat.

zip pocket

zip-off coat   Long coat styled to be used in two or three lengths, achieved by placing zippers at mini and midi lengths. When made to have only two lengths, may be called a duo-length coat. zeitgeist   General social spirit and popular culture of a given time period. zero waste design  Design process whereby fabric is utilized in the most efficient manner possible with an overall goal to reduce textile waste. An approach to design process in which an attempt is made to eliminate as much fallout as possible from cutting as a commitment to sustainability. Scraps and remnants from cutting may be repurposed or reconstituted. Zhivago blouse Zhivago blouse  (zhi-vah’-go) Men’s or women’s blouse style, inspired by the 1965 film Dr. Zhivago. Also called Cossack blouse, Russian blouse. Zhivago coat  (zhi-vah′-go) Mid-calf-length coat, lavishly trimmed with fur at neck, cuffs, and hem, sometimes with frog closing. Inspired by costumes worn in Dr. Zhivago, 1965 film adapted from eponymous novel by Boris Pasternak, about the 1917 Russian Revolution.

zipper   A fastener that consists of two tapes edged with flexible strips of metal or synthetic coil with interlocking projections; a sliding tag opens or closes the opening by separating the teeth or pulling them together. Zippers come in a variety of weights; they may be inserted to be intentionally exposed or hidden in the garment. Used to fasten garments, bags, pillows, and cushions among other items. zouave   (zoo-ahv or zwahv) adj. Descriptive of fashions inspired by or adapted from the costumes of Algerian troops that fought as part of the French army in the 1830s. zouave pants  Baggy trousers, often with a dropped crotch, that are gathered into a narrow ankle.

zouave pants

Zhivago coat

173

174

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers What makes top 100 lists so much fun? The intense debate, evaluation, and reevaluation they inspire; it’s also what makes them such a valuable learning experience. Iconic fashion influencers are not only designers. Brands, models, muses, entertainers, photographers, writers, and others contribute to what we wear and why we wear it. Influencers move fashion culture in every era, and in a wide variety of ways. So enjoy the list. Is this the last word on who is hot and who is not in terms of key influencers? Not at all! Someone not listed who you think should be there? Add it! Someone on the list who you think doesn’t belong? Subtract it! And be ready to support your ideas with reasons for your choices. Have fun!

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

1

Richard Avedon

1950s–1980s

Photographer

Deceptively simple images, exposing the emotions and spirit of the subject.

2

Azzedine Alaia

1980s–2000s

Designer

Famous for seductive clothes. “King of Cling.”

3

Giorgio Armani

1980s–2000s

Designer

Impacted men’s and women’s fashions. Fluid tailoring and luxurious fabrics.

4

Cristobal Balenciaga

1940s–1960s

Designer

Considered one of the greatest designers of the 20th century. Inspired work of many later designers—Givenchy, Ungaro, and Courrèges.

5

Josephine Baker

1920s–1930s

Entertainer

African American expat Paris entertainer who became famous for her exotic dance costumes.

6

Brigitte Bardot

1950s–1970s

Entertainer

French trendsetter and muse of Andy Warhol. Popularized bikini by wearing it in several films; sparked trends for wide-collared knit tops and ballerina flats.

7

The Beatles

1960s–1970s

Entertainers

Beatlemania! Worldwide cultural phenomenon. Along with records, they sold trends; copycat fans copied mop-top hair, mod clothing, bright colors, Cuban heels, mustaches.

8

Bill Blass

1970s–1990s

Designer

Mr. Sophistication. Refined cut. Innovative use of fabric. (continued)

175

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

9

Manolo Blahnik

1970s–1990s

Designer

Revived the stiletto in the 1970s. Known for creative styles while always using the classic heel.

10

Guy Bourdin

1960s–1970s

Photographer

Highly controlled images famous for a mysterious sense of danger and sex. Bourdin’s models often appeared dead or injured.

11

David Bowie

1970s–1980s

Entertainer

Rebellious androgyny.

12

Christie Brinkley

1980s–1990s

Model

25 years as the “face” of Cover Girl and has appeared on over 500 magazine covers.

13

Hattie Carnegie

1930s–1940s

Entrepreneur

Translated French couture for American audience. Gave a career start to many future designers—for example, Norell, Trigère, and McCardell.

14

Gisele Bündchen

1990s–2000s

Model

Supermodel sought after by numerous brands and designers to sell their fashions.

15

Naomi Campbell

1980s–1990s

Model

Broke racial barriers as the first black model on the covers of French and British Vogue.

16

Bonnie Cashin

1940s–1950s

Designer

Championed the active lives of women through American sportswear; separates, layered look, stretch ski pants, capris, or “pedal pushers.”

17

Jacques Cartier

1940s–1950s

Brand

Grandson of the famous jewelry-making family. Established company as iconic brand in WWII during Occupation through symbolic designs.

18

Hussein Chalayan

2000s

Designer

Internationally regarded designer; famous for his innovative use of materials.

19

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

1920s–1930s and 1950s–1970s

Designer/ Brand

Timeless classics born out of innovation and chic comfort; sweaters, tweeds, sailor looks.

20

Grace Coddington

1980s–2000s

Editor

Creative director, American Vogue.

21

Cindy Crawford

1980s–2000s

Model/ Entrepreneur

Supermodel. Translated fame into a fitness and cosmetic empire.

22

André Courrèges

1960s–1970s

Designer

First couturier to raise hemlines to mid-thigh. White boots, tough chic.

23

James Dean

1950s

Entertainer

Antiprep—jeans, T-shirt, and well-worn jacket.

24

Christian Dior

1940s–1950s

Designer

The “New Look” in 1947.

25

Linda Evangelista

1980s–1990s

Model

Supermodel of the 1980s and 1990s.

176

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

26

Patricia Field

1990s–2000s

Stylist

Costume designer and stylist for Sex & the City series and films, earning multiple awards and nominations.

27

Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana

1990s–2000s

Designers

Inspired the young to dress up. Lingerie look is a signature. Emphasis on female physique.

28

Farrah Fawcett

1970s–1980s

Entertainer

The first “must-have” celebrity hairstyle. Highest-selling poster of all time.

29

Tom Ford

1990s–2000s

Designer

Design voice of Gucci. Left to direct films and won an Academy Award.

30

Jean Paul Gaultier

1980s–2000s

Designer

Trendy and controversial. Punk look. Daring and avant-garde.

31

Robin Givhan

Writer

First writer to win a Pulitzer Prize for fashion commentary.

32

Hubert de Givenchy

1950s–1980s

Designer

Audrey Hepburn was his fashion muse. Introduced chemise and sack dress.

33

Edith Head

1930s–1950s

Costume designer

Head designer for Paramount and Universal Studios; 35 Oscar nominations, 8 Oscar wins.

34

Jean Harlow

1930s

Entertainer

Blonde hair and dripping satin gowns.

35

Halston

1970s–1980s

Designer

Unconstructed separates. Lush cashmeres. Studio 54.

36

Audrey Hepburn

1950s–1960s

Entertainer

Iconic gamine on-screen look and the muse of devoted couturiers like Hubert de Givenchy, who dressed her for several films.

37

Katharine Hepburn

1930s–1940s

Entertainer

The famously feisty star showed the world that a woman could care about her looks and still look like herself. Wide-leg trousers, menswearinspired fashions, and comfortable shoes.

38

Carolina Herrera

1980s–2000s

Designer

Caters to high-society clientele. Luxurious fabrics.

39

Horst P. Horst

1930s–1950s

Photographer

Captured an era of European and American glamour on film. Black-and-white portraits of 20th-century icons include Coco Chanel, Rita Hayworth, Andy Warhol, and Jackie Kennedy. Photography known for its drama, enchantment, and classical inspiration.

40

Iman

1970s–1980s

Model

Among the first black supermodels. Owns a line of cosmetics for skin colors underserved by mainstream makeup.

41

Marc Jacobs

1990s–2000s

Designer

Exceptional in leather and fur design. Designed for Perry Ellis label.

(continued)

177

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

42

Beverly Johnson

1960s–1970s

Model

Most famously, the first black model to appear on the cover of American Vogue. Appeared on over 500 covers. Outspoken about demands on models to maintain unrealistic and unhealthy weight. Leveraged her name to expand into other industries.

43

Donna Karan

1980s–2000s

Designer/ Brand

Elegant sportswear. Simple silhouettes. Easyfitting dresses.

44

Rei Kawakubo

1980s–1990s

Designer

Avant-garde clothes challenged classic idea of femininity.

45

Grace Kelly

1950s–1960s

Entertainer

Could make the simplest of fashions look glamorous. Epitomized 1950s style. Fairytale marriage to Prince of Monaco. Used a Hermes bag to conceal her “baby bump,” which became known as the Kelly bag. Still inspires designers.

46

Calvin Klein

1970s–2000s

Designer

King of minimalism. Designer jeans. Sexually charged advertising.

47

Michael Kors

1990s–2000s

Designer

Shape and line, devoid of ornament.

48

Heidi Klum

1990s–2000s

Model/ Entrepreneur

Producer of Project Runway.

49

Nick Knight

2000s

Photographer

A thought leader in incorporating the Internet and video into the world of fashion photography.

50

Lady Gaga

2000s

Entertainer

Outrageous stage style and has written a fashion column for V Magazine.

51

Karl Lagerfeld

1980s–2000s

Designer

Produces 16 collections a year! Excellent technique and witty design. Resurrected the Chanel brand.

52

Eleanor Lambert

1930s–1940s

Publicist

One of the first fashion publicists. Founder of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and creator of New York Fashion Week.

53

Jeanne Lanvin

1920s–1930s

Designer

Early Paris couturier.

54

Ralph Lauren

1980s–2000s

Designer/ Brand

Reinvents classic American style.

55

Annie Leibovitz

1970s–2000s

Photographer

Iconic, powerful images. Regularly produces cover images for Vogue, Vanity Fair, and exhibits around the world.

56

Christian Louboutin

1990s–2000s

Designer

Red-soled shoes trademark this iconic brand.

178

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

57

Madonna

1980s–2000s

Entertainer

Iconic and irreverent personal style.

58

Claire McCardell

1940s–1950s

Designer

Leading voice in the American sportswear look.

59

Alexander McQueen

1990s–2000s

Designer

Started as a Savile Row tailor in London. Under design direction of Sarah Burton, designed Kate Middleton’s gown for her wedding to Prince William.

60

Steven Meisel

1990s–2010s

Photographer

Photographed every cover and lead editorial for Italian Vogue over 20 years.

61

Martin Munkácsi

1920s–1930s

Photographer

Captured movement in fashion images at a time when photography was about stillness and poses.

62

Helmut Newton

1960s–1990s

Photographer

Controversial and influential. His photography coupled androgyny and conflict with classic fashion silhouettes.

63

Michelle Obama

2000s

Public figure

Sleeveless fashions and mix of high-end and mass retail. Champions young, little-known designers.

64

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis

1960s–1970s

Public figure

Iconic First Lady, she represented the style and sophistication of 1960s America. Championed couture designers to prepare her public wardrobe as one of the first to experience politics in front of TV cameras.

65

Bettie Page

1950s–1960s

Model

Defined the bold and innocent bad-girl pinup look of the era.

66

Barbara “Babe” Paley

1930s–1960s

Public figure/ socialite

Socialite who possessed great style and flawless appearance.

67

Jean Patou

1920s–1930s

Designer

Elegant, ladylike couture clothes. Successful businesswoman and showman.

68

Irving Penn

1950s–1970s

Photographer

Minimal yet graceful style. Used plain background, focusing on the subject.

69

Paul Poiret

1920s–1930s

Designer

First Paris couturier of the 20th century to become a trendsetter. Designed corset-free fashions.

70

Miuccia Prada

1990s–2000s

Designer

Global trendsetter of clothing and accessories. Miu Miu as a secondary line for youth.

71

Princess Diana

1980s–1990s

Public figure

Transformed the traditional regal look into something altogether more inviting and modern.

(continued)

179

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

72

Mary Quant

1960s–1970s

Designer

Distinctive style and subculture of the 1960s. Popularized miniskirt and other styles of the era for the young consumer.

73

Herb Ritts

1970s–1990s

Photographer

Classic photography to film director. Known for black-and-white photography. Classic and elegant images.

74

Carine Roitfeld

2000s

Editor

Vogue Paris.

75

Yves Saint Laurent

1960s–1990s

Designer

Pantsuits, pea jackets, safari, peasant styles, Rive Gauche.

76

Jil Sander

1990s–2000s

Designer

Highest-quality materials and craftsmanship. Expert tailoring.

77

Elsa Schiaparelli

1930s–1940s

Designer

Surrealism.

78

Jean Shrimpton

1960s–1970s

Model

One of the world’s first supermodels. Embodied the swinging London of the 1960s.

79

Franca Sozzani

1990s–2000s

Editor

Editor in Chief, Vogue Italia.

80

Edward Steichen

1910s–1940s

Photographer

First fashion photographer.

81

Levi Strauss

1880s and beyond

Brand

Durable work wear—the blue jean— transitioned to fashion and high fashion throughout the 20th century and beyond.

82

Mario Testino

1990s–2000s

Photographer

Favored by celebrities. Shot Prince William and Kate Middleton’s engagements photos. Numerous covers.

83

Tiffany & Company

1840s to current era

Brand

A storied and iconic brand. Iconic blue box. Established flagship store in New York in 1940.

84

Liz Tilberis

1970s–1990s

Editor

British Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in New York.

85

Twiggy (Lesley Hornby)

1960s–1970s

Model

Her name became synonymous with short pixie haircut and the mod look of London in the 1960s.

86

Gianni Versace

1980s–1990s

Designer

Kinetic prints. Metallic garments. King of fashion for rock-and-roll genre.

87

Madeleine Vionnet

1920s–1930s

Designer

Considered the “Queen of Bias” and “the architect among dressmakers.” Continues to influence designers.

88

Diane von Furstenberg

1970s–2000s

Designer

Best known for wrap dress and prints. DVF has grown into global luxury brand.

180

Appendix 1: Top 100 Fashion Influencers

Name

Decades Of Influence

Profession

Defining Characteristics

89

Ellen von Unwerth

1980s–1990s

Photographer

Model-turned-photographer. Women have a realness and sense of humor.

90

Diana Vreeland

1960s–1970s

Editor

Editor of American Vogue and consultant at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

91

Louis Vuitton

1850s to current era

Designer/ Brand

Status-symbol luggage.

92

Vera Wang

1990s–2000s

Designer/ Brand

Senior editor for Vogue for 16 years. Started wedding gown business in 1990. Now a global luxury brand expanded to ready-to-wear at various price levels.

93

Andy Warhol

Artist

Fashion and art merged. Championed the “Factory Girl” look inspired by Edie Sedgwick.

94

Bruce Weber

1980s–1990s

Photographer

Calvin Klein underwear campaign. Classic photography of all-American male.

95

Vivienne Westwood

1980s–1990s

Designer

Punk rock fashion.

96

Edna Woolman Chase

1910s–1950s

Editor

Editor of Vogue from 1914 to 1952. Started the Fashion Group (FGI) in 1928.

97

Charles Frederick Worth

1860s

Designer/ Father of French Couture

Created the “designer name” concept. Established a pattern of regular seasonal fashion showings.

98

Jason Wu

2000s

Designer

First fashion collection won Fashion Group Rising Star Award. First Lady Michelle Obama commissioned him to create both of her inaugural gowns.

99

Anna Wintour

1980s–2010s

Editor and creative director

Editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988. In 2013 named creative director of Conde Nast, Vogue’s publisher.

100

Yohji Yamamoto

1980s–1990s

Designer

Sparse, understated fashions. Asymmetrical cuts.

Adapted from a variety of sources, including WWD: 75 Years in Fashion 1910–1985; WWD Century, September 1998; WWD 100 Years | 100 Designers, November 1, 2011; and Time, All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons, April 2, 2012.

181

182

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Major Mesopotamian and Egyptian Garments

Sumerian: Kaunakes-type garments (3300–2500 BCE)

Royal Egyptian boy in draped skirt, corselet, and wearing his hair in the lock of youth (New Kingdom)

Babylonian wrapped cloth with fringes (2500–1000 BCE)

Egyptian women in (left) draped gown (New Kingdom) and (right) sheath dress (Old Kingdom through New Kingdom)

Assyrian ruler (1000–600 BCE)

Tunic, belt, and jeweled collar (New Kingdom)

183

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Major Greek and Roman Garments

Doric peplos (c. 550 BCE)

Ionic chiton (c. 550–480 BCE)

Himation

Tunic

184

Doric chiton (c. 400–100 BCE)

Chlamys (cloak) and petasos (hat)

Toga

Under tunic, outer tunic, and palla

Exomis

Under tunic, stola, and palla

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Major Garments of the Byzantine and Early Medieval Periods

Byzantine tunic with roundels and cape, c. 6th century

Medieval European woman, 12th century

Byzantine tunic and paludamentum, c. 6th century

Byzantine man, c. 11th century

Medieval European man and woman, 13th century

Byzantine woman, c. 11th century

Outer garment called the garnache, between late 13th and early 14th century

Medieval European man, 12th century

Medieval outer garment, called herigaut or gardecorps, mid-13th century

185

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Garments from the Later Middle Ages

c. 1300–1340 Man: cote and surcote, long c. 1300–1340 except for military men. Man: cote and surcote, long Woman: long cote and surcote. except for military men. Distinctions between men’s and Woman: long cote and surcote. women’s dress are minimal. Distinctions between men’s and women’s dress are minimal.

c.1400-1450 Man: short upper c.1400-1450 body garments Man: short upper (doublets, jackets) body garments worn with hose. (doublets, jackets) These continue to worn with hose. grow shorter, some These continue to grow shorter, some

c. 1340–1400 Man: short, closely fitting garments (pourpoints, c. 1340–1400 doublets), worn with hose. Long garments, such as the Man: short, closely fitting garments (pourpoints, houppelande, still used for some occasions. Woman: doublets), worn with hose. Long garments, such as the Long gowns, closely fitted to the body. Distinctions houppelande, still used for some occasions. Woman: between men’s and women’s dress are pronounced. Long gowns, closely fitted to the body. Distinctions between men’s and women’s dress are pronounced.

c. 1400–1450 Houppelande made c. 1400–1450 in full, mid-calf, Houppelande made and short lengths. in full, mid-calf, Women now adopt and short lengths. houppelande. Women now adopt Cote-hardie no houppelande. longer in fashion. Cote-hardie no longer in fashion.

c. 1450–1500 Women: V-neck gowns predominate, but fit becomes less full, c. 1450–1500 bodice has closer fit. Wide belt. Overall styles do not change so Women: V-neck gowns predominate, but fit becomes less full, much, but details of fit and cut change. bodice has closer fit. Wide belt. Overall styles do not change so much, but details of fit and cut change.

186

c. 1340–1400 Women: Sideless surcotes over fitted c. 1340–1400 gowns. Men: Cote-hardie an important Women: Sideless surcotes over fitted garment for working men. gowns. Men: Cote-hardie an important garment for working men.

c. 1400–1500 Woman: Fitted c. 1400–1500 gowns. Distinctions Woman: Fitted between men’s and gowns. Distinctions women’s dress is between men’s and clear. Specific women’s dress is details of styles clear. Specific keep changing. details of styles keep changing.

c. 1450–1500 Men: jacket, worn with hose, develops distinctive large shoulder. c. 1450–1500 Long robes also have broad shoulders. Men: jacket, worn with hose, develops distinctive large shoulder. Long robes also have broad shoulders.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Italian Renaissance

Man: 1400–1450 Doublet and hose

Woman: 1450–1500 Gowns worn either as a single layer or two layers

Man: 1550–1600 Silhouette widens, jackets take on rigid shape, puffs and slashes increase

Woman: 1400–1450 Houppelandes and fitted gowns

Man: (c. 1510) 1500–1550 Clothes grow wider, often decorated with puffs and slashes

Man: 1450–1500 Doublet under skirted jacket and hose

Woman: 1500–1550 Gowns are full, have puffed sleeves; are decorated with puffs and slashes

Woman: late 1500s Spanish influences appear in more rigid bodices, V-shaped waistlines

187

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Northern Renaissance

Man: c. 1500–1515 Doublet laced to hose, worn under jacket with short skirt (bases).

Woman: c. 1500–1530 Fitted bodices usually with squar e necklines and long sleeves. Skirts long, full, and trained. Similar to late medieval styles.

188

Man: c. 1515–1550 Wider garments that may be puffed, slashed, or paned. Breeches appear separate from the lower stocking.

Woman: c. 1530–1575 German style. Fitted bodice, with sleeves that have tight bands alternating with puffed areas, is attached to gathered skirt.

Man: 1570 (c. 1550–1600) Doublet and waist-length jacket with narrow shoulders and wide ruff. Many types of now wider trunk hose.

Woman: c. 1530–1575 Northern European countries Hourglass-shaped gown with stiff, tight bodice and inverted cone-shaped skirt. Sleeves large and full, necklines often square.

Woman: c. 1575–1600 Skirts widen at the top; bodices elongate into a V-shape and ruffs grow exceptionally wide or high.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Baroque

Man: 1600–1620 Short, wide trunk hose worn with doublet, jacket, or jerkin.

Woman: 1600–1630 Skirt flat in front, sides wide and full. Bodice has elongated U-shaped stomacher and complex sleeves.

Man: 1625–1650 Shirt, doublet, ending with tabs or skirt-like section below the waist, worn with knee breeches.

Woman: 1630–1660 Low-necked bodice with puffed and paned sleeves has U-shaped stomacher and slightly elevated waist. Open front of skirt shows underskirt.

Man: 1650–1680 Shirt, waist-length doublet, and knee-length breeches cut to look like a skirt or straight or full and drawn in to knee.

Woman: 1660–1680 Elongated bodice has V-shaped point at the bottom of the front. Skirts are either closed or open at front to show underskirt.

Man: 1680–1710 Shirt, a knee-length vest, and a knee-length outer coat that hid knee-length breeches.

Woman: 1680–1700 Bodice front opens showing decorative stomacher. Trained and heavy skirts need support. New cut is called a mantua.

189

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Rococo

Man: 1700 to c. 1750 Shirt, waistcoat and coat, ending just below the knee, with full skirts; knee-length rather full breeches.

Woman: 1715–1730 Gowns either full from shoulder to floor or fitted. Hoops hold out wide skirts.

190

Man: c. 1750–1800 The line narrows. Shirt under shorter waistcoat; slender coats, worn open, angle toward the side. Narrower breeches are knee-length.

Woman: 1730–1760 Open bodices have decorative stomachers. Skirts grow very wide. Gowns with full backs called à la Francaise; if fitted in back à l’Anglaise.

Woman: 1700–1715 Continuation of styles of 1680–1700.

Woman: 1760–1790 Hoops replaced by hip pads to support skirts, which are less wide. Skirt fullness gradually swings toward back.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

Directoire and Empire Period

Man: 1790 to c. 1807 Shirts, under waist-length waistcoats. Over these, tailcoats, worn with knee breeches or trousers.

Man: c. 1807–1820 Men more likely to wear trousers than knee breeches. Otherwise, little change.

Woman: 1790–1800 Elevated waistline, soft gathered skirt with narrower silhouette. Sleeves tend to be short; necklines low.

Woman: 1816 Sleeve variations and necklines appear and gradual widening of skirt hem and rising of waistlines as the period progresses.

191

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

Romantic Period

Man: 1820–1840 Shirt, waist-length waistcoat, and trousers, worn with a frock coat or tailcoat, possibly made with nipped-in waistline and slightly puffed sleeve cap.

192

Man: 1840–1850 Shirt, waistcoat, and trousers, worn with tailcoats for dress and frock coats for everyday. Skirt of coat narrows slightly; waistline falls.

Woman: 1820–1835 Waistline closer to anatomical waist, skirts wider and short enough that ankles may show. Sleeves may be very large.

Woman: 1836–1850 Full, less buoyant-appearing skirts lengthen to floor. Waistline at anatomical waist. Dropped shoulder line for narrower sleeves.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

Crinoline

Woman: 1850–late 1860s Fitted bodices have sleeves . set in at a dropped shoulder Waistline is close to the anatomical waistline.

Man: 1850–1870 Shirts with suits made up of coats (tailcoats for dress, frock coats for daytime) waistcoats, and trousers. Sack jackets now used more.

Woman: after 1857 Hoopskirts support full gathered or pleated skirts. At first concentrated all around, fullness gradually moves toward the back.

Woman: late 1860s Skirts are gored, have higher waistlines and fullness concentrated at the back.

193

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Bustle and 1890s

Man: 1870–1900 Shirts and neckties, vests, coats, and trousers. Coat alternatives were frock coats, morning coats, sack coats, and Norfolk jackets.

Woman: 1878–1883 The bustle diminishes and skirt fullness drops toward the floor. Bodices lengthen, fitting smoothly over the hip, then becoming wider below the knee.

194

Man: 1870–1900 The tuxedo, an evening suit with a sack jacket, appeared in the 1880s.

Woman: 1870–1878 Mostly two-piece dresses, closely fitted bodices, sleeves set in at the shoulder. Fullness concentrated at the back of the skirt falls in ruffles and draperies supported by a bustle.

Woman: 1883–1890 The bustle returns as a shelf-like, rigid form at the back. Skirts are rarely trained. Details include high, standing collars and long, fitted sleeves for daytime.

Woman: 1890–1900 A few pleats at the back of the skirt replace bustles. Dresses are hourglass shaped, with very large sleeves, small waistlines, and skirts shaped like an inverted cone.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Edwardian Period and World War I

Man: 1900–1920 Suits of jackets, vests, and trousers worn with white, colored, or figured shirts. Sack jackets predominate; morning coats for formal occasions.

Man: 1900–1920 Until World War I, suits are cut full through the torso. During and after the war, silhouette narrows. Norfolk jackets are worn for daytime, frock coats have limited use.

Woman: 1900–1908 S-shaped silhouette with full bosom and morning-glory–shaped skirt. Much use of frilly, lacy fabrics. Many women wear twopiece, tailor-made suits.

Woman: 1909–1914 Waistline moves higher with Empire-style revival. Skirt lines become straighter. Hobble skirts, very tight around the ankles, are fashionable.

Woman: 1914–1918 Skirts shorten and grow wider. Waistline is still slightly elevated. Military influences are evident.

Woman: 1918–1920 Silhouette narrows, skirts lengthen. Some dresses are barrel shaped, wider at the waist, more closely fitted at the hem. An unfitted line begins to appear.

195

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages 1920–1947

Man: Business Suit, 1927/1928 Chief elements continue to be shirt, vest, jacket, and trousers. Trousers slightly wider in the 1920s than in previous decade.

196

Woman: Dress, 1926 Typical style flat bosom, unfitted waist, and belt placed at the hip. Skirts shortest c. 1926–27, longer again by 1930. Pants seen for sports and outdoors.

Girl’s dress 1926 Unfitted style with trim

Boys’ clothing, 1926 Follows male styles of sports clothing, knickers and sweaters and more formal double-breasted coat styles

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages 1930s

Man: English Drape Suit, 1938 English drape style jackets have wider shoulders. Men wore sports jackets for casual dress.

Woman: Dress, 1933 Garments now follow body curves. Waist is again at anatomical position. Bias cut often used. Skirts, long at the beginning of the decade, gradually shorten.

Girls' dresses, 1938

197

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages The New Look: Fashion Conformity Prevails

Woman: Dress and Jacket, 1941 The lines of dresses just before the war are "frozen" by the war at shorter lengths, somewhat fuller skirts, and broad, padded shoulders.

198

Man: 1947–1950 The prewar, full shoulder line, double-breasted suits, with somewhat longer jackets and cuffed pants return.

Woman: 1947–1960 As war restrictions end, the New Look appears with rounded shoulders, narrow waist, and longer skirts, either very full or very narrow and straight.

Man: 1940s Double-breasted trench coat with epaulets on the shoulders, storm patch in front top, belt, and sleeve straps.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages The New Look: Fashion Conformity Prevails

Man: 1950–1960 Lines slimmer, based on Edwardian style of the Teddy Boys. Suits are often made in gray wool flannel. Some colored shirts begin to appear.

Man: 1950s Leather jackets were typically black, waist length, with asymmetrical zipper closures.

Woman: 1955–1960 First move toward different silhouettes as less-fitted garments, chemise, trapeze, and A-line garments appear in Paris.

Woman: 1955–1960 The A-line look in jacket and dress.

199

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages 1960–1969

Man: 1960s A more conservative look of narrow suit with tapered fit, short hairstyle, and minimal accessories

Man: 1960-1970 Greater Variety in color and pattern, more decorative mod-influenced styles appear. Turtleneck shirts worn with suits and Nehru suits provide alternatives.

Women: 1960–1970 By mid-1960s dresses are very short and unfitted. The Chanel suit becomes an important style. Street styles are incorporated into current fashion.

200

Man and Woman Hippie style of vests, fringe, headbands, love beads, peace symbol and flag on clothing

Man and Woman Dashikis symbolized pride n African heritage.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages 1970–1980

Man: 1970s Color and pattern continue to be one option for men, along with more traditional business suits. Leisure suits are worn as casual dress in the 1970s.

Man: 1970s Punk styles included black leather and Mohawk hairstyles.

Woman: 1970s By mid-1970s, skirts lengthen, and a softer, fitted line replaces the straight, short styles.

Woman: 1970–1980 Dress for success looks included suits, pant suits, and string ties. Attache bag matches belt, shoes, and hat.

Woman: 1970s Wrap-dresses in silky fabrics were fashion staples.

201

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Major Styles c. 1980s

Women Trends that influenced mainstream fashion included wide, padded shoulders and shorter skirts.

More colorful and decorative clothing continued to be an option for men.

202

Men: 1980s Business suits had wide shoulders and an easy fit.

Music inspired Goth looks of dark colored and tightly fitting clothing such as corsets.

Men Emphasis on fitness made activewear an important part of men’s wardrobes.

Music inspired hip-hop looks of oversized clothing and sneakers.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages 1990s

Women: 1990s and after Spandex added to many fabrics provided a tight, close fit. Shoulders narrowed somewhat.

Women: 1995–1999 Skirts of many lengths could be found.

Men Mid 1990s A more structured line in suits was apparent, often incorporating stretch fibers. Men: 1990s and after Casual dress for business became more widely accepted.

203

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages Some Major Styles c. 2000–2010

Short dresses worn over blue jeans, c. 2007

Underwear styles worn as outer Casual women’s styles included Casual men’s styles included garments, c. 2000–2008 matching velvet and velour 1cargo pants and hoodies. 1tracksuits.

More formal styles for men included 1tuxedos and two-piece suits.

204

Denim was available in 1products from head to toe.

Appendix 2: Fashion through the Ages

Some Major Styles c. 2010–2019

Slim ankle pants and leggings are 1worn with layered tops and jackets.

Pant suits, first introduced in the second half of the 1960s, remain a 1staple in many women’s wardrobes.

The hijab (head covering) and modest clothing worn by some Muslim women.

Cardigans worn with sheath dresses or pencil skirts were revived from 1the 1960s

More formal styles for men 1included three-piece suits.

205

206

207

208