Table of contents : Contents Copyright Foreword Introduction KWAME ONWUACHI AND JOSHUA DAVID STEIN: The Kitchen at Per Se Was a Clean Place but Hard and Heartless Too ALEX VAN BUREN: “I Just Want to Eat Her Up!” KORSHA WILSON: A Critic for All Seasons CYNTHIA R. GREENLEE: A Real Hot Mess: How Grits Got Weaponized Against Cheating Men BURKHARD BILGER: Open Wide LAURA HAYES: Fare Access: DC Restaurants Could Do More to Welcome Diners with Disabilities HANNAH GOLDFIELD: Kitchen Shift KAITLYN TIFFANY: Lean Cuisine Doesn’t Want to Be Part of Diet Culture Anymore. Does It Have a Choice? JOSÉ R. RALAT: The Demand for “Authenticity” Is Threatening Kansas City’s Homegrown Tacos JOE FASSLER: The Man Who’s Going to Save Your Neighborhood Grocery Store BRETT MARTIN: The Provocations of Chef Tunde Wey MEGHAN McCARRON: Whatever Happened to Portland? JOSHUA DAVID STEIN: When Jacques Pépin Made All the World an Omelet KAT KINSMAN: Where’d You Go, Rocco DiSpirito? SHO SPAETH: Easy, Peasy, Japanese-y: Benihana and the Question of Cultural Appropriation KIM SEVERSON: It’s Not Always Easy to Be Jamie Oliver TIM MURPHY: New Coke Didn’t Fail. It Was Murdered. KATY KELLEHER: Wet ’n Wild PETE WELLS: Peter Luger Used to Sizzle. Now It Sputters. AMELIA NIERENBERG: Hard Times for a Hot Commodity, the Prized New Mexico Chile TAMAR HASPEL: Here’s What the Government’s Dietary Guidelines Should Really Say PAIGE WILLIAMS: The Spice Trade CHARLOTTE DRUCKMAN: We All Scream DAN NOSOWITZ: What the Heck Is Crab Rangoon Anyway? SARA KAY: Yelp Reviewers’ Authenticity Fetish Is White Supremacy in Action Contributors’ Notes Other Notable Food Writing of 2019 Read More from the Best American Series About the Editors Connect with HMH Footnotes