Splendid Soups: Recipes and Master Techniques for Making the World's Best Soups 0471391360, 9780471391364

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Splendid

This book

is printed on acid-ftee paper. @

Copyright O ZOOI by Jmes Peterson. All rights reserved. Published by

Joh Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Published simultmeously in Canada.

No put of this publication may

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my form or by my mems, I07 or I08

electronic, mechmical, photocopying, recording, scmning or otherwise, excepc as permimed under Sections

of

the 1976 lJnited States Copyright Act, without either the prior wricten permission of the Publisher, or authorization through pa)menr of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clermce Cencer, 222 Rosewood Drive, Dmvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fu (978) 75O-4744.Reqrests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Deprtment, fohn Wiley & Sons, Inc., 605 Third Avenue, New York, NY I0I58-00I2, (2I2) 85O60II, fu (2I2) 8s0-6008, E-MaiL PERMREQ@ WILEY.COM.

This publication is designed to provide acorarc md euthoritetive ilformation in regrd to the subject matter covered. It is sold with the undersunding that the publisher is noc engaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistmce is required, the services

Librry of Peterson,

of

a competent professional person should be soughc,

Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

]mes

Splendid Soups : recipes md nmter techniques for making the world's best soups

/

fmes Peterson. P. m.

Indudes indq. ISBN: 0-47I-39I36-0 I. Soups. 2, Cookery, International. -1X757 .P4823 2000

547.8'13-dc2I Printed in the United States of America.

IO98765432

00-043855

lThis book is dedicated to Zelik

Contents ACKNOWLEDCMENTS XIX INTRODUCTION XXI EQUIPMENT 1 SERVING UTENSILS 5 INCREDIENTS 7 ETHNIC SOUPS 37 CUTTING OUT THE FAT 50 WHAT TO DRINK WITH SOUP 53

ths, Consomm6s, and Simple Broth-Based Soups 56 Basic Brown Chiclcen Basic

Broth I

White Chicken Broth

Turkey Broth

I el

I e+

Po* Broth I es Lamb Broth I es Veal Broth I ez Vegetable Broth I eg Dried Porcini Broth I EAR

oz

zo

BRorHs I t't

trtsotumE I zz Basic Chicken Consomm6 Basic Beef Consomm6

Beef Tea

I

I 72

I 74

ze

Smoked Chicken or Duc-k Consomm6

Fish Consomm6

I 80

Scallops in Clear

Broth I

Lobster Consomm6

I 84

gz

I

VIII

coNrENrs Tomato Consomm6

I 86

Grilled or Saut6ed Salmon Fillet in Consomm6, Clear Broth, or Dashi Sauteed or Grilled Duck Breast in Savory

Broth I

Red Wine, Onion, and Duck Thigh Soup

Miso Soup

I

9+

Thai Hot and Spicy Brorh

(Caeng

Red Wine Broth for Mear

I 96

Medallions

et

I sl

Broth (Dash)

Japanese Clear

I

I 87

gg

of

Prik)

I ss

Beef with Caramelized Onions and Red Wine

Broth I 98

COMBININC BROTH WITH ECCS, CHEESE, AND HERBS Hot Broth with Eggs and Parmesan Greek Lemon Soup (Atgobmono) Egg Drop Soup

I

Cheese (Strarriatella)

I I

I

I

TOO

1OO

'tol

toz

Hot and Sour Soup

I

to+

NOODLES, WONTONS, STUFFED PAsTA, AND DUMPLINCS I1O7 Chicken Noodle Soup

I

toa

Chicken Broth with Noodles, Chicken Livers, and Peas (Pasta in Brodo con Fegatin)

I

1O9

I t t2 Noodle Soup I t t:

Chicken or Duck Broth with Cellophane Noodles Thai-Style Chicken and Cellophane

Udon or Soba Noodles in Broth Chinese Pork Noodle Soup

I

I

114

tts

Chinese-Sryle Short Rib Soup with Chinese Vegetables

Wonton Soup

I

I

1

18

tzo

Spinach and Ricotta Stuffing

I tzl

I ne Smoke-Scented Broth with Ravioli I tze Improvised Leftover Meat Stuffing

Chicken Broth with Cheese and Bread Crumb Dumplings (Passatelli)

MEATBALLS AND SHRIMP BALLS

I

I tzs

130

Diced Tomato Soup with Chicken or Beef Broth and Marjoram-Flavored

Meatballs

I

t3o

Shrimp Balls in Hot and Sour Thai Broth

I t:z

CONTENTS IX Mexican Meatball or Shrimp Ball or Fish Ball Soup

(Sopa de AlbondE)

I

'tZZ

Singapore-Style Pork Broth with Noodles, Fish Balls, and Chinese Greens

Matzo BallSoup

I t:z

Rich Chicken Broth with Tarragon

I

Quenelles

I

139

141

Chicken Soup with Chicken Quenelles

'egetable

Puree

142

Soups 144

NCLE-VEGETABLE SOUPS Puree

I

I

154

of Artichoke I 15+ of Asparagus I 155

Avocado Soup Cream

of

Beet

I

tsa

Soup

I

tse

Slow-Cooked Broccoli Soup with Garlic and Olive

I

Italian-Style Cardoon, Bean, and Tomato Soup

Oil I tot

I eZ

of Carrot Soup (Purie Cricy) I rc+ Brazilian-Style Cashew Nut Soup 165 Puree of Caulifower Soup I t6z Cream or Velout6 of Celeriac Soup lrcg Puree of Chestnut I 170 Puree

I

Creamed Chili Soup Creamed Puree

I

tzz

of Fresh Corn

I

Indian-Style Corn Soup

I 173

,

174

Chinese Corn and Shrimp Soup

I

tze

Mexican Corn, Tomato, Chili, and Chicken Soup Spicy Cold Cucumber Soup with Yogurt

Miso and Eggplant Soup

179

I tat

Fennel, Tomato, and White Bean Soup Fresh Thyme and Garlic

I

Soup

I

I

t8z

tes

Spanish-Style Garlic Soup (Sopa de a1o) I t86 Puree

of

Green Bean and

Herb Soup

Mint I

I tss

Leek and Potato Soup

I

tso

t az

I

tz5

I

135

x

coNTENTs

I t9t Lettuce Soup I tSZ

Vchyssoise

Mushroom Velout6

Morel Soup

I

I

tg+

t9s

Mixed WildMushroom Soup Porcini Soup

(Aequacotta eon

Ftench Onion Soup

I

I

197

Fungh)

I

't98

zoo

I

Pureed Roasted Onion and Gadic Soup Senegalese Peanut

I

Soup

Georgia Peanut Soup

I

zoz

zo+

205

Medieval Pea Soup with Ginger, Saffron, and Almonds (Cretonnie dt Pois

RedPepperSoup

Noviaux)

I

I

206

208

Roasted Red Bell Pepper, Gadic, and Onion Soup Cream

of Sorrel

Indian-Style Spinach Puree

of

I

Soup (Pxag Gerninl)

Squash ot

Ptee I

212

I

215

I 2t6

Roasted Garlic and Acorn Squash Soup

I zra

Sweet Potato, Chili, and Lime

Soup I zt9

I

Swiss Chard, Parsley, and Garlic Soup

221

Perfect Summer Tomato Soup with Thrragon Sauce

Roasted'Iomato Soup

I

Mexican Tomato Soup with Assorted Condiments

of Tirrnip Soup I zat

Water Chestnut and Watercress Soup Watercress

Soup I

I

232

233

EANS, LENTILS, AND DRIED PEAS I235 Precooking Dried Beans for Soup

I zle

Bean and Pasta Soup (Minestra di Fagiol)

White

Bean and Vegetable

Blad< Bean

Soup I z+o

I

224

ZZs

Tomato Soup with Saffron and Garlic Mayonnaise

Cream or Velout6

210

214

Pumpkin

Roasted PumpkinSoup

I

Soup I zla

I zll

I 227 I 228

CONTENTS XI

I

Indian-Style Blad< Bean Soup

Lenril Soup

I

zat

z+a

Red Lentil Soup with Coconut

SplitPeaSoup

and Moghul Garam Masala

I z+z

Quebec Split Pea Soup Creamed Puree

Milk

of

I z+e

Fresh Fava Beans

I 249

XED VEGETABLE SOUPS I251 Gazpacho

I zs't

Gazpacho Scented with Smoked

White

Gazpac.ho from M5laga with Almonds and

White Gazpacho with Puee

Fish I zlr

Peppers and Cucumbers

of Mixed Vegetables I

Mulligatawny Soup

255

I zsz

Southern Frendr Vegetable Soup

Minesrrone

I

I

(Soape au

Pistou)

I

250

I 261 Minestrone I 262

Tirscan-Style Minestrone Milanese-Style

lza

French Farmer's Vegetable Soup (Soape Cuhitatar)

I zes Japanese Mixed Vegetable Soup I zez Chinese Mixed Vegetable Soup

Indonesian Vegetable Soup (Sa7ar Terury atau

ltbu)

I

I zzo Indian Mixed Vegetable Soup I zz2 Grilled Vegetable Soup I zz+ Elaborate Mixed Vegetable Soup I zze Moroccan Vegetable Soup

ice Sou

280

Shrimp Mussel, Chorizo, and Spanish Rice Soup

I 283

in the Style of an Arroce Soup in the Sryle Soup in the Style

of of

Rdsotto

i

la Milanese

Risotto di

I

ZAA

ltuui diMtre

I

zgz

Venetian Rice and Fresh Pea Soup (Rrsi a Brsr) Chinese Rice Soup (Conge)

I

zso

I

Zee

258

I z+s

xII

coNrENrs

Fish Soups 292 Basic Fish

Broth I

Red Wine Fish

307

Broth I soe

French Mediterranean-Style Fish Soup (Bowillnbaks)

I

I

Poached Fish in Garlic-Flavored Broth

(Bourrid)

Saffron-Scented Fish Broth from Nice

(Sor.4r de Pokson

zos

311

I

Nlois4

313

I zl+

Spanish Fish Soup with Chilies, Almonds, and Garlic (Romesco) French Country Red Wine Fish Soup (Matelote i k Bourguignonne)

I

3t6

I gta and Red Wine Soup | 3zo

Squid Soup with Red Wine Octopus

Eel or Other Fish with Fresh Green Herbs (Anguille au

Wr) I zzl

Hearty Fish Soup with Cider, Leeks, and Mushrooms

(Matelote

Spicy Brazilian Fish Soup with CoconurMllk (Vatapa)

I

Normand)

zzs

Spanish Cod Soup with Spinach and Chick-Peas (Potaie de Vtgilia) Cnicbe

I

I zzl

I lze

Cold Trout Soup with Herbs, White Wine, and Vnegar Thai Fish Soup with Thmarind Metnamese-Style

I

330

332

Hot and Sour Fish Soup I

Indian-Style Curry and Coconut Fish Soup

334

I ::s

Medieval Fish Soup with Peas and Spices (Cretonnie Fish Chowder

I

i

Pokson)

I

337

I a:a

I g:g Mexican-Sryle Fish Chowder I 340 Assorted Fish in Japanese Broth I :+t New England Fish Chowder

Grilled Mackerel Fillets with Soba Noodles and Dashi Basque-Style Salt Cod Soup

I

342

I :aa

Moroccan Fish Soup in the Style

of a Tagine I

345

Poached Salmon with Fermented Black-Bean-Scented

Broth I :az

Spanish Garlic and Almond Sauce for Finishing Fish Soups (Picada)

Garlic and Olive Oil Mayonnaise (Ai:ol)

I

349

Mediterranean Pepper, Garlic, and Bread Sauce for

Thi&ening Soup (RoullL)

I 350

I

348

323

coNrENrs xlll

Bivalve Shellfish Soups 352 Mussels Steamed in White Wine (Moults Cream

of

Mussel Soup (Brl& BD

Saffron Mussel Soup

I

i k Mariniir) I

361

353

I rsa I

Mussel and Shiitake Mushroom Dashi

zse

Clams with Cream and White

Wine I :Oz

New England Clam Chowder

I 359

Manhattan Clam Chowder

I

37o

Clam or Cockle Soup with Borlotti Beans (Zuppa di Vongob) Spanish "Quarter

Hour" Clam and Shrimp Soup

Bay Scallop Soup with Snow Peas

I

Oysrer Stew

I

(Sopa aI Cuarto de

374

Bay Scallop Clam, and Sea Urchin Roe

Soup

I

375

375

Oyster Soup with Fines Herbes Oysrcr and Chiclen Gumbo Oysrer Ceviche

|

|

| 377

378

380

I Sea Scallop Soup with Green Curry I Mixed Shellfish Pot-au-Feu I 383 Scallops in Light Broth with Chives

38t 382

Crustacean Soups 386 Light Cream of Lobster Soup

|

:e+

Cold Tomato and Lobster Soup with Lobster Coral Shrimp Bisque

I :sa

I tss Cajun Shrimp Soup with Smoked Salmon I +Ot South American Shrimp Chowder (Chup) I +oz Thai-Style Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup I +o+ Thai-Style Hot and Sour Blue Crab Soup I +os Blue Crab Soup with Picada I 406 Callaloo I 408 Crayfish Broth I +og Indian-Style Shrimp and Coconut Soup

I llz

I fgS

Hora)

I 313

xIV

coNrENrs

I

Cold Cucumber and Crayfish Soup with Dill

I

Corn and Crayfish Chowder

412

Crustacean Soup with Saffton and Morels

eat Soup

s

I

413

I

I +le

Seafood Tomato Soup (Cioppino)

Shrimp and Crayfish Gumbo

qt't

418

42O

EW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER, POT-AU-FEU, AND BOLLTTO MtSTO I qZS New England Boiled Dinner

I

425

(ht-au-Fn) I +za (Pwb au Po) I +zs

Frend-r Boiled Beef and Vegetables

Poadred Hen with Vegetables

Stuffed Poached Chid