Plus size crochet: fashions that fit & flatter 9781589233393, 1589233395

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plussizecrochet fashions that fit & flatter

margaret hubert

plussizecrochet fashions that fit & flatter

margaret hubert

plussizecrochet fashions that fit & flatter margaret hubert

DE DI CATIO N For my wonderful family, the sunshine of my life ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank Alchemy Yarns of Transformation, Blue Heron Yarns, DJ’s Yarn and Textiles, DMC Company, Knitting Fever, Lily Chin Yarns, Lion Brand Yarn Company, Patons Yarns, Plymouth Yarn Company, Seaport Yarns of NYC, and Tahki/Stacy Charles, Inc., who so graciously supplied yarns for most of the projects in this book. Thanks to Jeannine Buehler, Paula Alexander, and Catherine Brunow for helping me crochet some of the projects in the book. A special thank you to Linda Neubauer, my editor, always a joy to work with, always encouraging, and ever allowing me to stretch my crochet imagination.

Copyright © 2008 Creative Publishing international, Inc. 18705 Lake Drive East Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317 1-800-328-3895 www.creativepub.com All rights reserved President/CEO: Ken Fund Vice President/Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd Publisher: Winnie Prentiss Executive Managing Editor: Barbara Harold Acquisition Editors: Linda Neubauer, Deborah Cannarella Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer Design Managers: Mary Rohl, Jon Simpson Director of Photography: Tim Himsel Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin Photo Coordinator: Joanne Wawra Cover Design: Laurie Young Page Layout: Lois Stanfield Photographer: Joel Schnell Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hubert, Margaret. Plus size crochet : fashions that fit & flatter / Margaret Hubert. p. cm. ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-339-3 (soft cover) ISBN-10: 1-58923-339-5 (soft cover) 1. Crocheting--Patterns. 2. Overweight women-Clothing. I. Title. TT825.H82 2007 746.43’4041--dc22 Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Due to differing conditions, materials, and skill levels, the publisher and various manufacturers disclaim any liability for unsatisfactory results or injury due to improper use of tools, materials, or information in this publication. All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information on storage and retrieval systems—without the written permission of the publisher.

intro

About the Projects

6

Personalizing the Fit

8

projects

Bell-Sleeve Cardigan

12

Shawl-Collar Mohair Coat Ribbon-Yarn Jacket Metallic Tunic

20

26

32

Alpaca Appliqué Cardigan Five-Yarn Jacket

36

42

Beaded Rayon Shell

48

Tipsy Clusters Cardigan

52

Silk Scoop-Neck Cardigan Color Block Tunic

64

Denim Ruffle Bag

68

Poncho with Pizzazz Lace Pullover

58

72

76

Pocket Cardigan

80

Bamboo Cardigan

86

Bright Stripes Cardigan Aran-Style Jacket

92

99

Elegant Mohair Shawl

104

Short-Sleeve Pullover

108

Bow Tie Pullover

114

technicals Crochet Stitches Abbreviations

119

128

about the projects About two years ago, while vacationing in Australia, my friend showed me a book that was devoted exclusively to plus-size knitted garments. The styles were great, and after seeing them, I wondered if there were any comparable books of crocheted patterns. The seed was planted, but I did nothing with the idea. Then, while attending a CGOA (Crochet Guild of America) conference recently, several people approached me and asked why we designers consistently forget the plus-sized women. After doing some research, I realized that they were right. There are many crochet magazines and books, but not a lot offer plus sizes. I decided to do something about it, and Plus-Size Crochet is the result. Every woman, no matter what size she is, can look fabulous. It is knowing what looks good on you that makes the difference. Every style in this book may not look good on every figure, but I have tried to include something for everyone.



There are lots of ways to use color and pattern to produce flattering garments. Vertical color blocking, like the black and white tunic on page 64, has a slimming effect. The vertical striping of the bright stripes cardigan on page 92 is another great way to use color to flatter your figure. I used vertical patterns in many of the garments. Another color trick for creating a slimmer look is to match the inside or the outside of the top of an outfit to the bottom. For instance, if you are wearing a black skirt with a shell and a jacket, either the shell or the jacket should match the skirt. The other piece can be entirely different, but bringing at least one color from top to bottom is very effective. Pairing the rich color of the silk cardigan on page 58 over a black shell and black slacks would be an example of this. Softening a neckline with an interesting pattern or a small ruffle, like the short-sleeve pullover on page 108, also brings the eye up to the face. The alpaca cardigan with appliqués (page 36) is a great example of using design to attract the eye. All the intricate work is around the top; the bottom of the sweater is kept plain and simple. Some women look great in V-necks, others prefer a high boatneck or jewel neckline. Choose whatever suits you best. For each project, I chose a yarn to complement the stitch and the design of the garment. I used lightweight cottons just right for summer evenings, some slightly heavier yarns and mohair for 6

warmer fall garments. I used very elegant metallic yarn, tubular ribbons, and beaded rayon yarn, which are great for special-occasion garments. I have tried to keep the styles classic, yet give them a little dash with color and textural stitches. I included a shawl and a poncho that have more generous proportions than the usual patterns, and I used beautiful yarns to make them truly elegant and fun to wear. I’ve even included a large denim bag, which can be made with the denim yarn as shown or with any yarn that you like—since bags do not require fitting, you don’t need to be concerned about gauge. Some of the projects are very easy and require very minimal shaping and finishing; even beginners will find them easy. Others are a little more challenging. They will give all crocheters the opportunity to learn new stitches and tricks, and experienced crocheters will enjoy them too. The Personalizing the Fit section gives some insight into getting a proper fit which will help you make a garment that you will want to wear for years to come. I hope that you enjoy the book and are inspired to crochet many beautiful garments and accessories for your wardrobe. _________________________________

Margaret Hubert is also the

author of a popular crochet series, which includes Hooked Bags, Hooked Hats, Hooked Throws, Hooked Scarves, and Hooked for Toddlers. She designs knit and crochet projects for yarn companies and magazines and teaches at yarn shops, retreats, and national gatherings. Visit her web site: www.margarethubertoriginals.com or read her blog at http://journals.aol.com/ mhdesigner1/MyHooksandNeedles.

personalizing the fit Do not be afraid to make adjustments in the length of a garment. Take a moment to measure yourself, and find your size on the chart below. The measurements given in the project specs are the finished measurements of the garment—not your body measurements—so allow for wearing ease. Measurements

1X

2X

3X

4X

Bust

44" to 46" (111.8 to 116.8 cm)

48" to 50" (121.9 to 127 cm)

52" to 54" (132 to 137.2 cm)

56" to 58" (142.2 to 147.3 cm)

Center back

31" to 31½" (78.7 to 80 cm)

31½" to 32" (80 to 81.3 cm)

32½" to 33" (82.6 to 83.8 cm)

32½" to 33" (82.6 to 83.8 cm)

Back waist length

17¾" (45.1 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18½" (47 cm)

Cross back (shoulder to shoulder)

17½" (44.5 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18½" (47 cm)

Sleeve length to underarm

17½" (44.5 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18" (45.7 cm)

18½" (47 cm)

Here’s another way to determine which size to follow: Take the measurements of a garment that you already own and that you love the fit of. Compare these measurements to the stated finished size of the garment that you are planning to make, then use your measurements as a goal for your project. Use your garment as a template for your work, and regularly check your crochet sections against it for fit. The pattern directions may tell you to work a certain length from the bottom to the beginning of the armhole shaping. This will help you judge how long the sweater will be on you. If the finished length of the garment is going to hit right at your widest part, you may want to make it a little longer or shorter than the instructions call for. Be sure to buy more yarn if you add to the length. There are many ways to change a garment to fit your individual size, and it can be accomplished by mixing pattern sizes.

˜ If you are a “mixed” size—say you need a 1X for hips and bust,

but you need the armhole length of the 2X—it is okay to follow the 2X armhole shaping. If you do this, though, you will have to add a few more stitches to the upper sleeve, and shape the sleeve cap for the 2X.

˜ The armhole trick can be worked in reverse. Say you need the 3X for width, but shorter armholes. Follow the 1X armhole length, and adjust sleeve cap to fit.

˜ Say you need the width of the 3X, but the lengths would

be too long. Follow stitches for the 3X, and the lengths for the 1X or 2X. This will make a shorter, wider garment.

˜ You can also follow the 1X for width, and follow the

lengths for 2X or 3X. This will make a longer, narrower garment.

˜ If you need the larger size for hips and bust, but have smaller shoulders, the easiest way to accomplish this is to take off a few more stitches in the armhole shaping.

˜ If you need a longer sleeve, add one more even row between increases. If you need a shorter sleeve, make one less even row between increases.

(continued)

You can also use hooks to change size in specific areas, rather than changing the pattern or increasing or decreasing stitches.

˜ If you need a larger size for bust measurement, but all other

measurements are okay, the easiest way to give a little more room is to use a larger size hook for a few inches before and after the armhole, then change back to the recommended hook.

˜ If you need more hip room, use a larger hook than specified for the foundation chain and for about 5" (12.7 cm) before changing back to regular hook.

˜ For sleeves, you can use a smaller hook to begin if you have a small wrist. Use a larger hook for the upper arm, if you need more room in this area.

10 plus size crochet

Feel free to make simple style changes to personlize the fit of the garments. For instance, give yourself more ease in the hip area by leaving side vents. When sewing side seams, leave about 5" (12.7 cm) open at the bottom. If the pattern calls for a finishing row around the bottom, you will have to carry this finishing along the vent as well. If you would like the neckline—be it a V- or scoop-neck—a little higher than the pattern calls for, work more rows after the armhole shaping before beginning the neck shaping. Work one row less between decreases to allow for the shorter space for shaping the neck. If you would like to turn a long-sleeved garment into a short-sleeved one, determine how many stitches there are after all increases are made, then begin with that amount of stitches. Work even for the desired length, then shape the armhole and cap, following the instructions. Be sure to take notes on the changes you make as you crochet your first garment. (You paid for this book, go ahead and write in it!) Perhaps begin with a basic tunic or cardigan. Have patience; it may take a few tries to get it the way you want it. When you find the alterations that work best for you, apply them to other projects. Crocheting garments that really fit and flatter you will be so much easier to achieve.

11



bell-sleeve cardigan When you wear this lovely cardigan, be sure to “talk with your hands.” The exquisite bell sleeves and detailing that trail from the wrist to the elbow are sure to attract admiring gazes. Made of lightweight cotton yarn, this showstopper is a must for cool evenings on the town or any special occasion.

yarn Lightweight cotton Shown: Grace by Patons, 100% cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/136 yd (125 m): Ruby #60409, 12 (13, 15, 16) skeins

hooks 5/F (3.75 mm) for main body 4/E (3.5 mm) for trim

stitches Chain space mesh Single crochet Double crochet Triple crochet Reverse single crochet

gauge 16 dc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 5/F hook

notions Tapestry needle Button, 5⁄8" (1.6 cm) diameter

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 45" (49", 53", 57") [114.3 (124.5, 134.6, 144.8) cm]

bell-sleeve cardigan 13

notes 1. Double Crochet Increases (a) To inc dc at beg of row, sk first st after beg chain, work 2 dc in next st. (b) To inc dc at end of row, work until next to last st, work 2 dc in next st, work 1 dc in top of tch. 2. Double Crochet Decreases (dc2tog) (a) To dec at beg of row, sk first st after beg chain, yoh, pick up lp in next st, yo and through 2 lps, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo, pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. (b) To dec at end of row, work until last 3 sts on row, yoh, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo, pull through 2 lps, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook, dc in top of tch. 3. Unless otherwise specified, ch at beg of each row counts as first st, so sk first st.

back Foundation row (RS): With 5/F hook, ch 92 (100, 108, 116). Starting in third ch from hook (counts as dc), 1 dc in each ch across, turn—90 (98, 106, 114) dc. Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 88 (96, 104, 112) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—90 (98, 106, 114) dc. Rep row 1 until 12" (12½", 13", 13½") [30.5 (31.8, 33, 34.3) cm], or ½" (1.3 cm) less than desired finished length to underarm, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, ch 3, work dc until last 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, turn, leave rem stitches unworked—74 (82, 88, 94) sts. Cont to work in dc as established, dec 1 st each side every row 5 times. Work even on rem 64 (72, 78, 84) sts until armhole measures 9" (9½", 10", 10½") [22.9 (24.1, 25.4, 26.9) cm], ending with WS row. Left side neck shaping: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, work 1 dc in next 18 (18, 19, 19) sts, turn—19 (19, 20, 20) dc. Next row: Ch 3, sk first st, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 15 (15, 16, 16) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, fasten off—18 (18, 19, 19) dc. Right side neck shaping: Sk center 26 (34, 38, 44) sts, join yarn 19 (19, 20, 20) sts in from other edge, ch 3, sk first dc, work 1 dc in next 17 (17, 18, 18) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Next row: Ch 3, sk first st, 1 dc in next 15 (15, 16, 16) sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, fasten off—18 (18, 19, 19) dc.

14 plus size crochet

The main body of the sweater is made up of double crochet stitches. Rows of single crochet and reverse single crochet finish off the neck and front opening.

left front Foundation row: With 5/F hook, ch 50 (54, 58, 62). Work as for back on 48 (52, 56, 60) dc until same length as back to armhole, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, ch 3, work dc in next 38 (42, 45, 48), 1 dc in top of tch, turn— 40 (44, 47, 50) dc. Next row: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 36 (40, 43, 46) dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—39 (43, 46, 49) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 35 (39, 42, 45) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—38 (42, 45, 48) dc. Next row: Beg dec at neck edge, and at same time, cont armhole dec as follows: Ch 3, dc2tog, work 32 (36, 39, 42) dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—36 (40, 43, 46) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in next 30 (34, 37, 40) sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—34 (38, 41, 44) dc.

A single crochet-covered button draws the fronts together at the base of a deep V-neck.

Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in next 28 (32, 35, 38) sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—32 (36, 39, 42) dc. Cont in patt as established, working decs at neck edge only every row until 18 (18, 19, 19) dc rem. Work even until same length as back to shoulder, fasten off.

right front Foundation row: With 5/F hook, ch 50 (54, 58, 62). Work as left front to beg of armhole shaping, ending with RS row. Next row: Work in dc to last 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked—40 (44, 47, 50) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc next 36 (40, 43, 46), 1 dc in top of tch, turn—39 (43, 46, 49) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc next 35 (39, 42, 45), dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—38 (42, 45, 48) dc. Next row: Beg dec at neck edge, and at same time, cont armhole dec as follows: Ch 3, dc2tog, work 32 (36, 39, 42) dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—36 (40, 43, 46) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in next 30 (34, 37, 40) sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn— 34 (38, 41, 44) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in next 28 (32, 35, 38) sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in top of tch, turn— 32 (36, 39, 42) dc. Cont to work neck dec as established until 18 dc rem. Work even until same length as back to shoulder, fasten off. bell-sleeve cardigan 15

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row (RS): With 4/E (4/E, 5/F, 5/F) hook, ch 63. Starting in sixth ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), 1 dc in next ch, * ch 2, sk 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch, rep from * 18 times more, turn—20 ch-2 sps. Row 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 17 times more, ch 2, 1 dc in third ch of tch, turn—20 ch-2 sps. Rows 2–5: Rep row 1. Change to 5/F hook for all sizes. Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in first ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 17 times more, 1 dc in last ch-2 sp, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—18 ch-2 sps, 3 dc each side. Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 15 times more, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—16 ch-2 sps, 6 dc each side.

Chain-stitch mesh openwork at the wrists flares into lovely triple crochet shells and scallops.

Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 13 times more, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—14 ch-2 sps, 9 dc each side.

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 11 times more, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—12 ch-2 sps, 12 dc each side. Row 10: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 9 times more, 2 dc next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—10 ch-2 sps, 15 dc each side. Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 7 times more, 2 dc next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 14 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—8 ch-2 sps, 18 dc each side. Row 12: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 17 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 5 times more, 2 dc next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—6 ch-2 sps, 21 dc each side.

16 plus size crochet

Row 13: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 20 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 3 times more, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 20 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—4 ch-2 sps, 24 dc each side. Row 14: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 23 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, sk ch-2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * once more, 2 dc next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 23 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—2 ch-2 sps, 27 dc each side. Row 15 (first increase row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 2 dc in next dc (inc made), 1 dc in next 25 dc, * ch 2, sk ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * once more, 1 dc next 24 dc, 2 dc in next dc (inc made), 1 dc in top of tch, turn—2 ch-2 sps, 28 dc each side. Row 16: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 27 dc, * ch 2, sk ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * once more, 1 dc in next 26 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—2 ch-2 sps, 28 dc each side. Rows 17–25: Rep row 16. Row 26 (second increase row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, inc next st, 1 dc in next 26 dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp, 1 dc in next 26 dc, inc next st, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—63 dc. Cont in patt as established for 3 more rows, then inc one st each side and rep inc every other row 2 (3, 4, 4) times more—69 (71, 73, 73) dc. Cont until sleeve measures 15" (15½", 16", 16½") [38.1 (39.4, 40.6, 41.9) cm] from beg, ending with WS row. Sleeve cap: Sl st in 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, ch 3, work dc until last 8 (8, 9, 10) sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked—53 (55, 55, 53) dc. Cont as established on 53 (55, 55, 53) sts for 3 more rows, then dec 1 st each edge every other row 3 times. Work 0 (1, 2, 3) more rows, then dec 1 st each edge every row 4 (5, 5, 5) times. Fasten off. Bottom sleeve trim: Row 1: With RS facing and using 5/F hook, join yarn in third ch of ch-5 of foundation chain, ch 1 (counts as sc), * 3 sc in next sp, rep from * across, ending 1 sc in top of tch, turn—62 sc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first sc, 1 dc in each next 2 sc, * ch 2, sk 2 sc, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, 1 dc in next 2 sc, rep from * 6 times more, sk 2 sc, ending 1 dc in last sc, turn—32 dc, 21 ch-2 sps. Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first dc, 1 sc in next dc, sk next dc, 1 sc in next ch-2 sp, * ch 8, (sk 1 dc, ch-2, 1 dc), 1 sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 5 times more, ending ch 8, (sk 1 dc, ch-2, 1 dc), 1 sc in next ch-2 sp, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in last sp created by beg ch-5 of previous row, turn—7 ch-8 loops, 6 ch-4 loops.

bell-sleeve cardigan 17

Row 4: Ch 1 (counts as first st), sk first st, 1 sc in next sc, * [5 tr, ch 1, 5 tr] in next ch-8 loop, 1 sc in next ch-4 loop, rep from * 5 times more, ending [5 tr, ch 1, 5 tr] in next ch-8 loop, 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn—7 large shells. Row 5: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), 1 dc in next sc, * ch 5, sk 5 tr, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 5 tr, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in next sc, rep from * 5 times more, ending ch 5, sk 5 tr, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 5 tr, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in third ch of tch, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sk first dc, 1 sc next st, * ch 8, 1 sc next ch-2 sp, rep from * 13 times more, ending 1 sc in top of tch, turn—14 ch-8 loops. Row 7: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next sc, * 8 sc in next ch-8 loop, rep from * ending 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in top of tch, fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work scallop and front borders. 5. Make covered button. Sew in place on cardigan front. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Block to measurements.

bottom scallop border Row 1: With RS facing and using 5/F hook, join yarn in lower left corner of front, 1 sc in each stitch on opposite side of foundation chain, turn. Row 2: Ch 1 (do not sk first st), 1 sc in first st, * ch 8, sk 4 sts, 1 sc in next st, rep from * across, turn—40 ch-8 loops. Row 3: Ch 1 (do not sk first st), 1 sc first st, * 8 sc in next ch-8 loop, rep from * across, ending 1 sc in tch, fasten off.

front border Using 4/E hook, join yarn at bottom right corner. Row 1: Work in sc evenly spaced up right front edge, around neck, and down to bottom left border, turn.

18 plus size crochet

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, work in sc until start of V-neck shaping, ch 8 (for button loop), sc in same st, cont sc to end, do not turn. Row 4: Work 1 row rev sc all around front edge, skipping ch-8 lp, fasten off.

covered button Foundation row: Using 4/ E hook, ch 3, join with Sl st to form ring. Row 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc in ring, join with Sl st to beg ch-1, do not turn. Row 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st, join with Sl st to beg ch-1, do not turn—16 sc. Row 3: Ch 1, * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * around, join with Sl st to beg ch-1, do not turn—24 sc. Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st, join with Sl st to beg ch-1, fasten off, leaving 15" (38.1 cm) tail for gathering and sewing. Thread end onto tapestry needle, gather up sts of last row, place button on piece just made, pull end tightly, encasing button inside its cover, and knot securely. Use rem yarn to sew button in place.

bell-sleeve cardigan 19

shawl-collar mohair coat This warm, go-with-everything coat is easy to make with a large hook, very little shaping, and minimum finishing. It is a loose-fitting garment, surprisingly lightweight, and great for layering.

yarn Bulky-weight mohair Shown: Yesterday by Plymouth, 80% mohair, 15% wool, 5% nylon, 1.75 oz (50 g)/110 yd (100 m): Orange-Red #1663,15 (16, 17, 18) skeins

hooks 11/L (8 mm) for main body 10½/K (6.5 mm) for sleeve cuff on 1X and 2X only

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 3 clusters = 4" (10.2 cm) using 11/L hook

notions Tapestry needle Three buttons, 1¼" (3.2 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 48" (50½", 52½", 56") [122 (128.3, 133.4, 142.2) cm]

shawl-collar mohair coat 21

notes 1. To dec CL, work 1 sc and 1 dc in first CL then on next dec row, eliminate next dc. 2. To inc CL, work 3 dc on first inc row, then form new CL on next inc row.

back Foundation row: With 11/L hook, ch 63 (66, 69, 72). Starting in second ch from hook (counts as sc), 2 dc in next ch, * sk 2 ch, [1 sc, 2 dc] in next ch (CL made), rep from * to last 3 ch, sk 2 ch, 1 sc in last ch, turn—20 (21, 22, 23) CL. Row 1 (RS): Ch 1 (counts as sc), 2 dc in first st, * sk 2 dc, [1 sc, 2 dc] in next st, rep from * to last 3 sts, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep row 1 until piece measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm] from beg. First decrease row: Ch 1, 1 dc in first st (dec made, this is now half CL), cont patt across row, turn. Second decrease row: Rep last row. There are now 19 (20, 21, 22) CL in the row, 18 (19, 20, 21) full CL and one half CL each side. Cont in patt, keeping half CL each side, until piece measures 19" (20", 21", 22") [48.3 (50.8, 53.3, 55.9) cm] from beg. Third decrease row: Ch 1, sk first dc, CL in next sc, cont patt across row, turn. Fourth decrease row: Rep last row, there are now 18 (19, 20, 21) CL in row, turn. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 23½" (24", 24½", 25") [59.7 (61, 62.2, 63.5) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Sl st over 2 CL, work to last 2 CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked—14 (15, 16, 17) CL. Cont on until armhole measures 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Small clusters of one single crochet and two double crochets make up the main body of the coat. The yarn changes color to create a striped effect.

22 plus size crochet

Neck shaping: Work patt as established on first 3 (3, 4, 5) CL. Fasten off. Sk center 8 (9, 8, 7) CL, join yarn and work patt on last 3 (3, 4, 5) CL. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 11/L hook, ch 36 (39, 42, 45). Work patt same as back on 11 (12, 13, 14) CL until piece measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm] from beg, ending with WS row. Dec half CL at beg of RS row, same as for back, for side edge. Cont on rem 10½ (11½, 12½, 13½) CL until piece measures 19" (19", 21", 22") [48.3 (48.3, 53.3, 55.9) cm] from beg, ending with WS row. Dec half CL at beg of RS row for side edge. Cont on rem 10 (11, 12, 13) CL until piece measures 23½" (24", 24½", 25") [59.7 (61, 62.2, 63.5) cm] from beg, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Sl st over 2 CL, work patt as established on rem 8 (9, 10, 11) CL until piece measures same length as back to shoulder, ending with WS row. Sl st over 3 (3, 4, 5) CL for shoulder, cont patt as established on rem 5 (6, 6, 6) for 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm] for one half of shawl collar. Fasten off.

Fronts are made with extensions for the shawl collar.

shawl-collar mohair coat 23

right front Work same as for left front, working dec at beg of WS row same as for left front. Work until same length as back to armhole, ending with a WS row. Armhole shaping: Work in patt as established to last 2 CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked—8 (9, 10, 11) CL. Cont patt as established until piece measures same length as back to shoulder, ending with WS row. Work 5 (6, 6, 6) CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Cont patt on 5 (6, 6, 6) CL for 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.7, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Fasten off.

sleeves Make 2.

Buttonholes are not necessary because the buttons will fit through the openings between stitch clusters.

Foundation row: With 10½/K hook for 1X and 2X or 11/L hook for 3X and 4X, ch 39 (39, 42, 42). Work patt same as for back on 12 (12, 13, 13) CL until piece measures 8" (20.3 cm) from beg. This allows for a 4" (10.2 cm) turn-back cuff.

First increase row: Change to 11/L hook for all sizes. Ch 1 (counts as sc), 3 dc in first st, work across row, turn. Second increase row: Ch 1 (counts as sc), 3 dc in first st, work across row, turn. Keeping 3 dc in each end CL, cont until sleeve measures 15½" (16", 16½", 17") [39.4 (40.6, 41.9, 43.2) cm] from beg. Third increase row: Ch 1 (counts as sc), 4 dc in first st, work across row, turn. Fourth increase row: Ch 1 (counts as sc), 4 dc in first st, work across row, turn. Cont in patt as established, keeping 4 dc in each beg CL until sleeve measures 20" (21", 21½", 22") [50.8 (53.3, 54.6, 55.9) cm] from beg. Sleeve cap: Sl st over 2 CL, work to last 2 CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Cont in patt on rem center CL for 6 (8, 10, 12) more rows. Dec 1 st each edge, then repeat dec every row 4 times more. Fasten off.

24 plus size crochet

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Holding right sides together, sew two short ends of collar together, pin center seam of collar to center back of neck, easing collar in place, sew collar to back of neck. 3. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 4. Sew underarm seams, leaving 5" (12.7 cm) unsewn along each lower side edge for side vents. 5. Sew on buttons. No buttonholes needed—button in any open space of stitch. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

shawl-collar mohair coat 25

ribbon-yarn jacket What is your favorite color? Can’t decide? Crochet a versatile jacket using yarn that continually changes color to display an entire rainbow of jewel tones throughout the fabric. This jacket, made from cotton/rayon ribbon yarn, has an open shell-stitch pattern that will dress you up but not heat you up.

yarn Medium-weight ribbon Shown: Cotton/Rayon Ribbon by Blue Heron, 54% cotton, 46% rayon, 8 oz (227g)/400 yd (366 m): Mossy Place, 3 (3, 4, 4) skeins

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 1¾ shell clusters = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notions Tapestry needle Five buttons, ¾" (1.9 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 46" (50", 54½", 58½") [116.8 (127, 138.4, 148.6) cm]

ribbon-yarn jacket 27

notes Single Crochet Decreases (sc2tog) To dec, pick up lp in next st, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook.

back Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 63 (69, 75, 81). Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn—62 (68, 74, 80) sts. Row 1 (RS): Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1), sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st (half CL made), * ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st (full CL made), rep from * 8 (9, 10, 11) times more, ending with ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in tch (half CL made), turn. There will be 9 (10, 11, 12) full CL and one half CL each side. Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, * ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, ch 2, 1 sc in second dc of next CL, rep from * 9 (10, 11, 12) more, ending ch 2, 1 sc in third ch of tch, turn—10 (11, 12, 13) full CL. Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1), 1 dc same st (half CL) * ch 2, 1 sc in center dc of next CL, ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, rep from * 8 (9, 10, 11) times more, ending ch 2, 1 sc in center of next CL, ch 2, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in top of tch (half CL), turn. There will be 9 (10, 11, 12) full CL and one half CL each side. Rep rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 13½" (14", 14½", 15") [34.3 (35.6, 36.8, 38.1) cm] from beg, ending with row 2.

Double crochet clusters throughout give the jacket a lightweight, lacy look.

28 plus size crochet

Armhole shaping: Sl st over first half CL, ch-sp, sc, ch-sp, full CL, ch-sp, and sc, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same st (new CL formed), * ch 2, sc in center of next CL, ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, rep from * 6 (7, 8, 9) times more, turn, leave rem st unworked—8 (9, 10, 11) CL. Next row: Ch 1, sc2tog, * ch 2, CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in center of next CL, rep from * 5 (6, 7, 8) times more, 1 CL in next sc, ch 2, sc2tog, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Cont pattern as established on rem sts until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 33 (39, 45, 51). Work as back on 32 (38, 44, 50) sts. There will be 4 (5, 6, 7) full CL and one half CL each side on patt row 3. Work even in patt as established until same length as back to armhole, ending with row 2. Armhole shaping: Sl st over first half CL, ch-sp, sc, ch-sp, full CL, ch-sp, and sc, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same st (new CL formed), * ch 2, sc in center of next CL, ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, rep from * 1 (2, 3, 4) times more, ending ch 2, 1 sc in center of next CL, ch 2, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in top of tch (half CL), turn—3 (4, 5, 6) CL and one half CL at front edge. Next row: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, * ch 2, CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in center of next CL, rep from * 1 (2, 3, 4) times more, 1 CL in next sc, ch 2, sc2tog, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Cont to work even on rem sts until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8", 8½"), [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm] ending with row 2. Neck shaping: Work patt across row, leaving last (sc, ch-sp, CL, ch-sp, sc, ch-sp, CL, ch-sp) unworked for neck, turn. Cont patt as established on rem sts until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

right front Work as for left front, reversing armhole and neck shaping.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 33 (39, 44, 50). Work in sc on 32 (38, 43, 49) sts for 5 rows. Change to patt as for back for 2 rows. Change to 8/H hook and cont patt until piece measures 8" (20.3 cm) from beg, ending with row 2, turn.

ribbon-yarn jacket 29

First increase row (on patt row 3): Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1), work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same sp forming new CL, work patt as established to end of row, work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in top of tch (full CL made), turn—5 (6, 7, 8) full CL on patt row 3 instead of 4 (5, 6, 7) CL and one half CL each side. Second increase row: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1), 1 dc in same st (half CL), ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, cont patt as established to last sc, CL in last sc, ch 2, sc in next dc, ch 2, [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in tch (half CL), turn—5 (6, 7, 8) full CL and one half CL each side. Keeping inc sts in patt, work 4 rows even. Rep last 6 rows, until you have 7 (8, 9, 10) full CL, half CL each side. Work even until 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg, ending with row 2. Sleeve cap: Sl st over first half CL, ch-sp, sc, ch-sp, full CL, ch-sp, and sc, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same st (new CL formed), * ch 2, sc in center of next CL, ch 2, 1 CL in next sc, rep from * 4 (5, 6, 7) times more, turn, leave rem sts unworked—6 (7, 8, 9) CL. Next row: Ch 1, sc2tog, * ch 2, CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in center of next CL, rep from * 4 (5, 6, 7) times more, 1 CL in next sc, ch 2, sc2tog, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Cont to work even until sleeve cap is 4" (4½", 5", 5½") [10.2 (11.4, 12.7, 14) cm]. Change to 6/G hook, work 2" (5.1 cm) more. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work front and neck border. 5. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

front and neck border Row 1: Using 6/G hook, starting at bottom right front, RS facing you, sc evenly spaced along right front, 3 sc in last st on front to form corner, cont around neck, 3 sc in top of left front to form corner, cont down left front to bottom, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each sc just worked, working 3 sc in center st of each corner, turn.

30 plus size crochet

Row 3 (buttonhole row): Before beg row, place pins on right front, marking 5 buttonholes evenly spaced, allowing 2 sts for each buttonhole. Work in sc to first marker, * ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each sc to next marker, rep from * 3 times more, ch 2, sk 2, cont in sc, working 3 sc in corner st, cont around neck, 3 sc in corner st, cont down left front, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each sc worked, working 3 sc in each corner and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp to complete buttonhole, turn. Row 5: Rep row 2, fasten off.

Several rows of single crochet stabilize the neckline, sleeve ends, and button bands.

ribbon-yarn jacket 31





metallic tunic This light-as-a-feather tunic is great for holiday parties or a special occasion. Layer it over a tank or camisole and pair it with a long skirt or pants for an elegant look. The easy stitch pattern creates an open-work fabric that is quick and easy to crochet.

yarn Lightweight metallic Shown: Star by Tahki Select, 60% Tactel nylon, 40% Sinflexpolyester, 0.7 oz (20 g)/163 yd (150 m): Flower #016, 9 (10, 11, 12) balls

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main body 5/F (3.75 mm) for sleeve and neck borders

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 7 V-sts = 4" (10.2 cm) using 6/G hook

notions Tapestry needle Button, ½" (1.3 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 48" (50", 52", 54") [121.9 (127, 132.1, 137.2) cm]

metallic tunic 33



notes 1. To dec V-st, on first row, work only 1 dc in V, omit ch 2 and second dc. On second row, omit second dc, thereby dec 1 V-st. 2. To inc V-st, on first row, work extra dc in first st and last st. On second inc row, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), work 1 more dc bet first 2 dc (this creates new V-st), cont across row, create new V between last 2 dc, ending 1 dc.

back Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 132 (138, 144, 150). Starting in sixth ch from hook (counts as dc), * [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in next ch (V-stitch made), sk 2 ch, rep from * across row, ending 1 dc in last ch, turn—42 (44, 46, 48) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), * [1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc] in next ch-2 sp, rep from * across row, ending with 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Rep row 1 until piece measures 14½" (15", 15½", 16") [36.8 (38.1, 39.4, 40.6) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Sl st over 4 V-sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), work on center 34 (36, 38, 40) V-sts, turn, leave rem 4 V-sts unworked—34 (36, 38, 40) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Cont in patt as established, dec 1 st each edge every row 4 times—30 (32, 34, 36) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Cont in patt as established until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

front Work same as back until armhole shaping is completed. Keyhole shaping Left side: Work across 15 (16, 17, 18) V-sts, work 1 dc in center of next V, turn, leave rem V-sts unworked. Work on 15 (16, 17, 18) V-sts until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm], ending at side edge. Neck shaping: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work on center across 9 (10, 10, 11) V-sts, turn, leave rem leaving 6 (6, 7, 7) V-sts unworked for neck—9 (10, 10, 11) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Working on rem V-sts, dec 1 (2, 1, 2) V-st at neck edge—8 (8, 9, 9) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

34 plus size crochet

Simple V-stitch pattern is made by working double crochet, chain two, double crochet in a single stitch. In every row, the V-stitch pattern is worked into the chain space of the row before.

Right side: Join yarn in center V same as left front, ch 3, work rem 15 (16, 17, 18) V-sts until 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm, ending at neck edge. Neck shaping: Sl st over 6 (6, 7, 7) V-sts, ch 3, work rem 9 (10, 10, 11) V-sts. Working on rem V-sts, dec 1 (2, 1, 2) V-st at neck edge— 8 (8, 9, 9) V-sts and 1 dc each side. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 5/ F hook, ch 60 (66, 72, 78). Work same as back on 18 (20, 22, 24) V-sts for 4 rows. Change to 6/G hook, inc 1 st each edge every third row 18 times—36 (38, 40, 42) V-sts. Work even until sleeve measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg. Sleeve cap: Sl st over 4 V-sts, work to last 4 V-sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked—28 (30, 32, 34) V-sts.

A keyhole neckline opening closes with a chain loop around a rhinestone button.

Dec 1 st each edge every row 20 times. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work neck border. 5. Sew on button. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

neck border Row 1: With RS facing and 5/F hook, join yarn at right shoulder seam, work 1 row sc across back neck, working 1 sc in each dc, cont along side and left front of neck, working 3 sc in corner, cont in sc down front opening, up right front to corner, work 1 sc in corner, ch 10 for buttonloop, work another sc in corner, cont along right front neck back to where you started, Sl st in first sc to join. Row 2: 1 sc in each sc to first corner, work 3 sc in corner, cont down left front to last st on left front, skip this st and first st on right front, cont up right front, working 3 sc in button loop st, cont along right neck edge, Sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. metallic tunic 35





alpaca appliqué cardigan Few pleasures in life can top the soft, cozy warmth of an alpaca sweater. This classic cardigan is sure to become one of your favorites. The floral appliqués arranged asymmetrically around the neckline draw all eyes to your beaming smile.

yarn Lightweight alpaca Shown: Baby Alpaca D.K. by Plymouth, 100% baby alpaca, 1.75 oz (50 g)/125 yd (115 m): Light Brown #208 (A), 12 (12, 13, 14) skeins; Light Beige #207 (B), 1 skein; Light Grey #401 (C), 1 skein

hooks 9/I (5.5 mm) for main body 8/H (5 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Single crochet through the back loop Single crochet through the front loop Half double crochet Double crochet Reverse single crochet

gauge 13 dc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 9/I hook

notions Tapestry needle Five buttons, ¾" (1.9 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 47" (50", 52", 55") [119.4 (127, 132.1, 139.7) cm]

alpaca appliqué cardigan 37



notes 1. Single Crochet Decreases (sc2tog) (a) At beg of row: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, pick up lp in next st, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. (b) At end of row: Work to last 3 sts, pick up lp in next st, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook, 1 sc in tch. 2. Single Crochet Increases (a) At beg of row: Ch 1, sk first st, work 2 sc in next st. (b) At end of row: Work to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in tch. 3. Double Crochet Decreases (dc2tog) (a) To dec at beg of row, sk first st after beg chain, yoh, pick up lp in next st, yo and through 2 lps, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo, pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. (b) To dec at end of row, work until last 3 sts on row, yoh, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo, pull through 2 lps, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook, dc in top of tch. 4. Double Crochet Increases (a) At beg of row: Ch 3 turn, sk first st, work 2 dc in next st. (b) At end of row: Work to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in tch.

back Foundation row: With A and 9/I hook, ch 76 (80, 84, 88). Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across row, turn—75 (79, 83, 87) sc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first sc, 1 dc in next 73 (77, 81, 85) sc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—75 (79, 83, 87) dc. Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first dc, 1 sc in next 73 (77, 81, 85) dc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12" (12½", 13", 13½") [30.5 (31.8, 33, 34.3) cm] from beg, ending with row 1. Armhole shaping: Sl st over 6 sts, work sc over next 63 (67, 71, 75), leave rem 6 sts unworked, turn.

Alternating rows of single and double crochet stitches make up the sweater body.

Cont in patt, dec 1 st each edge every row 3 times—57 (61, 65, 69) sts. Cont in patt until armhole measures 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm], ending with row 1. Right shoulder shaping (WS): Sc across next 19 (20, 21, 22), turn, leave rem sts unworked. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times—14 (15, 16, 17) sts.

38 plus size crochet

Work even on rem 14 (15, 16, 17) until armhole measures 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Fasten off. Left shoulder shaping: With WS facing, sk center 19 (21, 23, 25) sts, join yarn and work rem 19 (20, 21, 22) sts. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times. Work even until shoulder measures same length as right shoulder. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With A and 9/I hook, ch 40 (42, 44, 46). Work as for back on 39 (41, 43, 45) sts until piece measures same length as back to armhole, ending with row 1. Armhole shaping (WS): Work sc in next 33 (35, 37, 39) sts, turn, leave rem 6 sts unworked. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at side edge every row row 3 times—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Cont in patt as established on rem 30 (32, 34, 36) sts until armhole is 5½" (6", 6½", 7") [14 (15.2, 16.5, 17.8) cm], ending with row 2. Neck shaping: Next row (RS): Cont in patt to last 13 (14, 15, 16) sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked for neck. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 3 times. Work even on rem 14 (15, 16, 17) sts until piece measures same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

right front Work same as for left front to the beg of armhole shaping. Next row (WS): Sl st across first 6 sts, work rem sts, turn. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at side edge every row 3 times—30 (32, 34, 36) sts. Work even until piece measures same length as left front to beg of neck shaping, ending with row 2. Next row (RS): Sl st over 13 (14, 15, 16) sts, work in patt to end of row. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 3 times. Work even on rem 14 (15, 16, 17) sts until same length as left front. Fasten off.

Single crochet rows form the stable border around the neck and the front button bands.

alpaca appliqué cardigan 39

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With A and 8/H hook, ch 39 (41, 43, 45). Work in patt on 38 (40, 42, 44) sts for 4 rows. Change to 9/I hook. Cont in patt for 3 more rows. Inc 1 st each edge on next row and every sc row 11 (12, 13, 14) times more—60 (64, 68, 72) sts. Cont in patt until sleeve measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg, ending with row 1. Sleeve cap (WS): Sl st over 6 sts, cont in patt to last 6 sts, leave rem sts unworked. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at each edge every other row until 20 sts rem. Fasten off.

paisley motif Make 3 with B. Foundation: With 8/H hook, ch 4, Sl st to first ch to form ring. Do not turn. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc in ring, Sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join. Do not turn. Note: From this point on, you will be working back and forth in rows, not in rnds. Row 2: Ch 1, working in BL only, work 1 sc in next 2 dc, work 2 hdc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in each of next 3 dc—14 sts. Leave rem sts unworked. Do not turn. Row 3: Ch 1, working in FL only (you will work in BL of these sts in row 4), work 1 rev sc in 14 sts of previous row. Do not turn. Row 4: Working in BL only of same sts worked in row 3, work 1 sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in each of next 3 sts—14 sts. Leave rem sts unworked. Do not turn. Row 5: Rep row 3. Repeat rows 4 and 5 once more. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

flower motif Make 4 with B. Foundation row: With 8/H hook, * ch 9. Starting in third ch from hook, work [1 sc, 1 hdc] in next ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in last ch, do not turn. Rep from * 7 times more —8 petals total. Sl st in last st of first petal to join into flower. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

40 plus size crochet

Flowers, paisleys, and leaf motifs are crocheted separately and hand-stitched in an asymmetrical pattern over the shoulders and neckline.

leaf motif Make 6 with B, 7 with C. Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 16. Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next 3 ch, 1 sc in next 3 ch. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

flower centers Make 8 with C, 7 with B, 2 with A. Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form ring. Do not turn. Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring, Sl st to top of beg ch 1 to join. Do not turn. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work front and neck border. 5. Sew motifs in place, using photos on pages 36–40 as a guide. 6. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes. 7. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 8. Do not block.

front and neck border Row 1: With RS facing, 8/H hook and A, join yarn at bottom right front, sc evenly spaced along right front, 3 sc in last st on front to form corner, cont around neck, 3 sc in top of left front to form corner, cont down left front to bottom, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each sc just worked, working 3 sc in center st of each corner, turn. Row 3 (buttonhole row): Before beg row, place pins on right front, marking 5 buttonholes evenly spaced, allowing 2 sts for each buttonhole. Work in sc to first marker, * ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each sc to next marker, rep from * 3 times more, ch 2, sk 2, cont in sc, work 3 sc in corner st, cont around neck, 3 sc in corner st, cont down left front, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each sc worked, working 3 sc in each corner and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp to complete buttonhole, turn. Row 5: Rep row 2, fasten off.

alpaca appliqué cardigan 41





five-yarn jacket For this jacket, I used five yarns from the same color family but with very contrasting textures.

yarn

The pattern is a little tricky, but

Medium-weight metallic (A), bulky-weight ladder (B), bulky-weight ribbon (C), bulky-weight multifiber (D), lightweight smooth (E)

the results are worth it.

Shown: (A) Glitterspun by Lion Brand, 60% acrylic, 27% Cupro, 13% polyester, 1.75 oz (50 g)/115 yd (105 m): Bronze #135, 3 (3, 4, 4) balls (B) Trellis by Lion Brand, 100% nylon, 1.75 oz (50 g)/115 yd (105 m): Champagne #303, 2 (2, 3, 3) balls (C) Incredible by Lion Brand, 100% nylon, 1.75 oz (50 g)/110 yd (100 m): Autumn Leaves #206, 4 (4, 5, 5) (D) Moonlight Mohair by Lion Brand, 57% acrylic, 28% mohair, 9% cotton, 6% metallic, 1.75 oz (50 g)/82 yd (75 m): Safari #203, 4 (4, 5, 5) balls (E) Microspun by Lion Brand, 100% microfiber acrylic, 2.5 oz (70 g)/168 yd (154 m): Mocha #124, 3 (3, 4, 4) balls

hooks 11/L (8 mm) for main body 10/J (6 mm) for shaping 8/H (5 mm) for borders and buttons

stitches Single crochet Double crochet Reverse single crochet

gauge 11 stitches = 4" (10.2 cm) using 11/L hook

notions Tapestry needle Six button forms, ¾" (1.9 cm) diameter

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 49" (51", 54", 57") [124.5 (129.5, 137.2, 144.8) cm] five-yarn jacket 43



notes 1. Slip each of the five skeins of yarn into separate ziplock bags to keep them from getting tangled as you crochet. 2. Work 1 row of A, 1 row of B, 1 row of C, 1 row of D, and 1 row of E for color sequence. Repeating the 5 rows of color sequence, work 4-row repeat of pattern stitch. 3. Always pick up last lp of stitch with new color, then chain as directed for turning chain. It is not necessary to fasten off colors after each row; carry yarns loosely up sides of work. 4. Be sure that you pick up the same amount of stitches on left and right fronts. See page 126 for directions on picking up stitches. 5. When sewing seams, be sure that carried yarns are hidden inside garment.

back Foundation row: With 11/L hook and A, ch 68 (72, 76, 80). Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch, turn—67 (71, 75, 79) sc. Pattern stitch (change color every row): Row 1 (RS): With A, ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next st, rep from * to end of row, foll color sequence, change color in last st, turn—33 (35, 37, 39) ch-1 sps. Row 2: Ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp (counts as dc2tog), * ch 1, dc2tog, inserting hook in same ch-1 sp as prev st for first part and in next ch-1 sp for second part, rep from * to last sp, ending ch 1, dc2tog in same ch-1 sp and last sc, changing color in last st, sk tch, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * 1 sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next cluster, rep from * ending 1 sc in last ch-1 sp, 1 sc in last st, changing color in last st, sk tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc2tog, inserting hook in first st for first part and in next ch-1 sp for second part, * ch 1, dc2tog, inserting hook in same ch-1 sp as prev st for first part and in next ch-1 sp for second part, rep from * ending with second part of last CL in last sc, 1 dc in same st, changing color in last st, sk tch, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, sk next CL, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp, rep from * working last sc in top of tch, changing color in last st, turn. Rep rows 2–5 for patt, foll 5-row color sequence, until back measures 3" (3", 3½", 4") [7.6 (7.6, 8.9, 10.2) cm] from beg. A four-row pattern worked with five alternating yarns gives you stripes with lots of texture contrasts.

44 plus size crochet

Change to 10/J hook and cont in patt as established for 2" (5.1 cm) more.

Next row: Change back to 11/L hook and cont in patt until 14½" (15", 15½", 16") [36.8 (38.1, 39.4, 40.6) cm] from beg, ending with row 2 or 4. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 7 (7, 8, 8) sts, work until last 7 (7, 8, 8) sts, leave rem stitches unworked—53 (57, 59, 63) sts. Cont to work in patt as established until armhole measures 10½" (11", 11½", 12") [26.9 (27.9, 29.2, 30.5) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 11/L hook and A, ch 34 (36, 38, 40). Work in patt as for back on 33 (35, 37, 39) sts. There will be 16 (17, 18, 19) ch-1 sps. Work in patt until same length as back to armhole, ending with row 2 or 4. Next row (RS): Sl st in 7 (7, 8, 8) sts, work in patt to end of row (front edge), turn. Working on rem 26 (28, 29, 31) sts, work until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm], ending with row 2 or 4. Neck shaping: Cont in patt until last 12 (13, 14, 14) sts, leave rem stitches unworked for front neck, turn. Work on rem 14 (15, 15, 17) sts until piece measures same length as back to shoulder, fasten off.

right front Work same as left front, reversing all shaping.

sleeves

Single crochet border rows are worked only in the metallic yarn.

Make 2. Foundation row: With 10/J hook and A, ch 32 (34, 36, 38). Work foundation and first row as for back on 31 (33, 35, 37) sts. Then work rows 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 2 of patt. On row 3, inc 1 st each side. Change to 11/L hook and rep last 5 rows (2, 3, 4, 5, 2). On row 3, inc 1 st at each side. Work even until sleeve measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg. Sleeve cap: Sl st in 7 (7, 8, 8) sts, work to last 7 (7, 8, 8), leave rem stitches unworked—33 (35, 35, 37) sts. Cont until cap measures 6" (6½", 7", 7½") [15.2 (16.5, 17.8, 19.1) cm]. Next row: Sl st in 7 sts, work to last 7 sts, turn. Next row: Sl st in 7 sts, work to last 7 sts, fasten off.

five-yarn jacket 45

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work front and neck border. 5. Make button covers. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

Button covers are worked in the ribbon yarn and multifiber yarn for even more interest down the front.

46 plus size crochet

front and neck borders Row 1: With RS facing, 8/H hook, and A, join yarn at bottom right corner, sc evenly spaced along front edge to top right corner, work 3 sc in corner, cont in sc around neck to top left corner, work 3 sc in corner, cont down left side to bottom left corner, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each st to center st of 3 sc at top left, work 3 sc in center st, sc in each st to center st of top right corner, work 3 sc in center st, cont down right front to bottom, turn. Row 3: Rep row 1. Row 4 (buttonhole row): Before beg row, place pins on right front, marking 6 buttonholes evenly spaced, with top button at neck edge and bottom button 2" (5.1 cm) from lower edge, allowing 3 sts for each buttonhole. Work in sc to first marker, * ch 3, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in each sc to next marker, rep from * 4 times more, ch 3, sk 3 sts, cont in sc, work 3 sc in corner st, cont around neck, 3 sc in corner st, cont down left front, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each sc worked, working 3 sc in each corner and 3 sc in each ch-3 sp to complete buttonhole, turn. Row 6: Rep row 2, turn. Row 7: Rep row 1. Do not turn. Row 8: Work 1 row of rev sc, fasten off.

button covers Make 3 with C; 3 with D. Foundation row: Using 8/H hook, ch 4, Sl st to first ch to form ring. Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 1, work 8 sc in ring, Sl st to first st to join. Do not turn. Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around—16 sc. Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing. Thread tail onto tapestry needle. Place button form inside “cup” of button cover and, using tapestry needle, catch outside loop of last row to enclose button form inside cover. Draw up tightly and knot in place. Use rem yarn to sew button into place.

five-yarn jacket 47





beaded rayon shell Pair this shell with the Tipsy Clusters Cardigan on page 52, or make it to wear alone. It’s also great for layering under a suit jacket. This beaded rayon yarn has rich colors and a lovely sheen.

yarn Medium-weight textured Shown: Beaded Rayon by Blue Heron, 100% rayon, 8 oz (227g)/525 yd (480 m): Violet Fields, 2 skeins

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main body 5/F (3.75 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 15 dc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 6/G hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 45" (47", 49", 51") [114.3 (119.4, 124.5, 129.5) cm]

beaded rayon shell 49



notes When working in dc, dec by dc2tog (page 122). Always work dec 1 st in from end sts.

back Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 85 (89, 93, 97). Starting in second ch from hook (counts as sc), 1 sc in each ch across, turn—84 (88, 92, 96) sc. Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first sc, * 1 dc in next 82 (86, 90, 94), 1 dc in top of tch—84 (88, 92, 96) dc. Rep row 1 for 2½" (3", 3", 3½") [6.4 (7.6. 7.6, 8.9) cm]. Change to smaller hook and work in dc for 2" (5.1 cm) more. Change back to larger hook and work in dc until piece measures 13" (13½", 14", 14½") [33 (34.3, 35.6, 36.8) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 8 sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 67 (71, 75, 79) sts, turn, leave rem 8 dc unworked—68 (72, 76, 80) dc. Cont as established, dec 1 st at each side every row 4 times—60 (64, 68, 72) sts. Work even until armhole measures 9" (9½", 10", 10½") [22.9 (24.1, 25.4, 26.9) cm]. Fasten off.

front Work same as for back until all armhole dec are completed. V-neck shaping: Left side: Work across 30 (32, 34, 36) sts, turn. Leave rem sts unworked. Working on left side only, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 17 (18, 20, 21) times—13 (14, 14, 15) sts. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off. Right side: Join yarn at center with Sl st, work 30 (32, 34, 36) dc across rem sts of row. Working on right side only, work as for left front, reversing shaping.

50 plus size crochet

Rows of double crochet make for quick work. The yarn changes color frequently and creates a random design.

Single crochet border rows are edged with a row of dainty picot stitches.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Sew underarm seams. 3. Work neck and armhole borders. 4. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 5. Block to measurements.

neck border Rnd 1: With RS facing, join yarn at right shoulder using smaller hook, work 1 sc in each st along back of neck, work in sc evenly spaced along left front down to point of V, cont working sc up right front to shoulder, Sl st in first sc to join. Do not turn. Rnd 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc until 1 st before point of V, sk last st on left side and first st on right side, 1 sc in each sc to shoulder, Sl st in first sc to join. Do not turn. Rnd 3 (picot rnd): * Ch 3, work 1 sc in first ch for p, sk 1 st, 1 sc next st, rep from *. Fasten off.

armhole border Work 3 rnds as for neck border.

beaded rayon shell 51





tipsy clusters cardigan This classic Chanel-type jacket has an interesting stitch pattern of clusters that tip from side to side. Wear it over the matching shell on page 48 for a great look, or pair it with your favorite slacks or skirt.

yarn Medium-weight textured Shown: Beaded Rayon by Blue Heron, 100% rayon, 8 oz (227g)/525 yd (480 m): Violet Fields, 3 skeins

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main body 5/F (3.75 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 15 dc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 6/G hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 47" (49", 51", 53") [119.4 (124.5, 129.5, 134.6) cm]

tipsy clusters cardigan 53



back Begin with bottom border. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 86 (90, 94, 98). Starting in second ch from hook (counts as sc), 1 sc in each ch across, turn—85 (89, 93, 97) sc. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first st, 1 sc in next 83 (87, 91, 95), 1 sc in tch—85 (89, 93, 97) sc. Row 2: Rep row 1. Begin pattern: Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, * sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, rep from * 5 times more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—6 shells with 5 dc bet each shell group and 9 (11, 13, 15) dc at each side edge.

Columns of double crochet shells that tip from side to side are separated by columns of plain double crochet stitches.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, * sk ch-2, 5 dc in first dc of shell, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 dc, rep from * 5 times more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—6 shells with 5 dc bet each shell group and 9 (11, 13, 15) dc at each side edge. Rep patt row 2 until piece measures 14" (14½", 15", 15½") [35.6 (36.8, 38.1, 39.4) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Keeping patt as established, Sl st in next 8 dc, ch 3, work to last 8 sts, turn, leave rem stitches unworked. Work in patt as established, beg and end with 1 (3, 5, 7) dc at each side edge until armhole measures 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Begin with bottom border. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 46 (48, 50, 52). Starting in second ch from hook (counts as sc), 1 sc in each ch across, turn—45 (47, 49, 51) sc. Work 2 more rows in sc. Begin pattern: Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, * sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, rep from * across row, turn—3 shells with 5 dc bet each shell group, 5 dc at front edge and 9 (11, 13, 15) dc at side edge.

54 plus size crochet

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 4 sts * sk ch-2, 5 dc in first dc of shell, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 dc, rep from * 2 times more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 8 (10, 12, 14) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—3 shells with 5 dc in bet each shell group, 5 dc at front edge and 9 (11, 13, 15) dc at side edge. Rep patt rows 1 and 2 until same length as back to armhole, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Sl st in first 8 sts, ch 3, keep patt as established on rem 37 (39, 41, 43)—3 shells with 5 dc bet each shell group, 5 dc at front edge and 1 (3, 5, 7) dc at side edge. Work until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8”, 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm], ending with WS row. Neck shaping: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, work 0 (2, 4, 6) dc, [sk 2 ch, 5 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 dc] twice, leave rem sts at front edge unworked for neck, turn. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 3 times. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

Single crochet border rows are edged with a row of dainty picot stitches.

tipsy clusters cardigan 55

right front Work as for left front, reversing shaping and working 5 dc at front edge and 9 (11, 13, 15) dc at side edge.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 5/F hook, ch 40 (42, 44, 46). Starting in second ch from hook (counts as sc), 1 sc in each ch across, turn—39 (41, 43, 45) sc. Work 2 more rows in sc. Begin pattern: Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, * sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, rep from * twice more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—3 shells with 5 dc bet each shell group and 4 (5, 6, 7) dc at each side edge. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk firs dc, 1 dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, dc * sk ch-2, 5 dc in first dc of shell, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 dc, rep from * twice more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Change to 6/G hook and work 2 more rows of patt row 2. In next row, inc 1 st at each edge and rep inc every other row 12 times more, working new sts in dc, turn—65 (67, 69, 71) sts. To inc in dc, ch 3, sk first st, work 2 dc in next st, work to end of row, work 2 dc in st before tch, work 1 dc in tch. Keeping inc sts in dc, work even until piece measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg. Sleeve cap: Sl st in 8 sts, ch 3, work patt to last 8 sts, turn, leave rem stitches unworked. Cont as established, dec 1 st at each edge every other row 7 (7, 8, 9) times—35 (37, 37, 37) sts. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work front and neck borders. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 6. Block to measurements.

56 plus size crochet

front and neck border Row 1: With RS facing and 5/F hook, join yarn at bottom right corner, sc evenly spaced along front edge to top right corner, work 3 sc in corner, cont in sc around neck to top left corner, work 3 sc in corner, cont down left side to bottom left corner, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each st to center st of 3 sc at top left, work 3 sc in center st, 1 sc in each st to center st of 3 sc at top right, work 3 sc in center st, cont down right front to bottom, turn. Row 3: Rep row 2. Row 4 (picot row): Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, work 1 sc in first ch for p, sk 2 sts, 1 sc next st, rep from *. Fasten off.





silk scoop-neck cardigan You’ll love wearing this sweater, made with luxurious pure silk yarn in a vibrant color and wonderful stitch pattern. Petal-like clusters on a mesh background give it an ultra-feminine look.

yarn Lightweight silk Shown: Silk Purse by Alchemy, 100% silk, 1.75 oz (50 g)/138 yd (126 m): Tea Leaf #80E, 9 (9, 10, 10) skeins

hooks 5/F (3.75 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for sleeve shaping 4/E (3.5 mm) for borders

stitches Single crochet Double crochet Triple crochet Triple treble crochet Reverse single crochet

gauge 7 ch-2 spaces or 2 complete flower clusters = 4" (10.2 cm) using 5/F hook

notions Tapestry needle Three button forms, ½" (1.3 cm) diameter

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 43" (49", 51", 58") [109.2 (124.5, 129.5, 147.3) cm]

silk scoop-neck cardigan 59



notes 1. Triple Treble Crochet (trtr) Yoh 4 times, pick up lp in next st, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 5 times (see page 124). 2. Triple Crochet Two Together (tr2tog) In this pattern, tr2tog is used to form CL, not to decrease a stitch. Yoh twice, pick up lp in designated st, [yo, pull though 2 lps] twice, yoh twice, pick up lp in same st, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice, yo and pull through all lps on hook. (see page 124).

back Foundation row: With 5/F hook, ch 120 (132, 144, 156). Starting in seventh ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), * 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, rep from * 36 (40, 44, 48) times more, 1 dc in last ch, turn—38 (42, 46, 50) ch-2 sps. Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, * ch 9, sk 1 dc, work [1 sc, ch 4, tr2tog] all in next dc, sk 1 dc, work [tr2tog, ch 4, 1 sc] all in next dc, rep from * 8 (9, 10, 11) times to last 2 ch-2 sps, ch 9, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in third ch of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 10 (counts as trtr, ch 4), 1 sc in ch-9 lp, * [ch 4, tr2tog, ch 4, 1 Sl st, ch 4, tr2tog] all in next tr2tog, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-9 lp, rep from * 8 (9, 10, 11) times more, ch 4, 1 trtr in last sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc into first trtr, * ch 5, 1 sc in top of next tr2tog, rep from * 18 (19, 20, 21) times more, ending ch 5, 1 sc in sixth ch of tch, turn—20 (21, 22, 23) ch-5 sps. Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc, ch 2), 1 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, 1 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, rep from * 17 (19, 21, 23) times more, turn—38 (42, 46, 50) ch-2 sps. Rep rows 1–4 until back measures 24" (25", 26", 27") [61 (63.5, 66, 68.6) cm] from beg, ending with row 4. Fasten off.

The stitch pattern resembles four-petal flowers growing on a trellis.

60 plus size crochet

left front Foundation row: With 5/F hook, ch 60 (72, 72, 84). Work patt same as back—18 (22, 22, 26) ch-2 sps. Cont until piece measures 15" (15½", 16", 16½") [38.1 (39.4, 40.6, 41.9) cm] from beg, ending with row 4. Next row (WS): Sl st in 12 ch-2 sps, making 2 Sl st in each sp, then cont patt beg with row 1 in rem sts. Work on these sts until piece is same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

right front Work same as left front to neck shaping, ending with row 4, turn. Work row 1 of patt to last 12 ch-2 sps, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Cont patt as established until piece measures same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

sleeves Make 2. With 5/F hook, ch 83 (95, 95, 107). Work patt same as back—26 (30, 30, 34) ch-2 sps. Cont patt as established until sleeve measures 12" (12½", 13", 13½") [30.5 (31.8, 33, 34.3) cm] from beg. Change to 6/G hook and cont patt as established for 4" (10.2 cm) more, ending with row 4. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work button band and neck border. 5. Make button covers. Sew in place on cardigan front. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

button band and neck border With 4/E hook, starting at top right front, work 1 row sc all around neck edge to top left front. Ch 1, turn, work a second row of sc around neck. Fasten off. Row 1: Join yarn at bottom right corner, work in sc evenly spaced up right front to top, work 3 sc in corner, cont in sc around neck edge to top left front, work 3 sc in last st for corner, cont down left front to end, turn.

silk scoop-neck cardigan 61

Single crochet rows make a stable border for the neck and fronts.

Row 2: Work 1 sc in each sc to top of left front, 3 sc in center st of corner, sc around neck to top right front, 3 sc in center st of corner, * ch 3, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sc, rep from * twice more (3 buttonholes made), cont in sc to bottom right front, turn. Row 3: Work 1 sc in each st to first buttonhole, * 3 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in next 7 sc, rep from * once, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, 1 sc in each st, 3 sc in center st of corner, cont 1 sc in each st around to bottom left corner. Do not fasten off. Do not turn. Row 4: Work 1 row rev sc in each sc, fasten off.

button covers Make 3. Crochet-covered buttons accent the deep scoop neck.

62 plus size crochet

Foundation row: Using 4/E hook, ch 3, 8 sc in first st, Sl st to first st to join. Do not turn.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, Sl st to first st to join. Do not turn. Rnd 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stc fasten off, leaving 15" (38.1 cm) tail for gathering and sewing. Thread end onto a tapestry needle, gather up sts of last row, place button on piece just made, pull end tightly, encasing button inside its cover, and knot securely. Use rem yarn to sew buttons in place.





color block tunic The bold contrast of black and white splits your figure down the middle and is very flattering. The tunic will span several seasons because it is made in cotton yarn.

yarn Lightweight cotton Shown: Senso by DMC, 100% cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/150 yd (137 m): Black #1012 (A), 8 (9, 10, 11) balls; Cream #1002 (B), 8 (8, 9, 10) balls

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for borders and sleeve beginning

stitches Single crochet Half double crochet Double crochet Triple crochet

gauge 6 V-sts = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 50" (54", 56", 58") [127 (137.2, 142.2, 147.3) cm]

color block tunic 65



notes Backs and fronts are made in 2 pieces and sewn together at the center.

left back Foundation row: With A and 8/H hook, ch 60 (63, 66, 69). Starting in third ch (counts as hdc), [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch (V-st made), * sk 2 ch, [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch, rep from * across row, ending 1 hdc in last ch—19 (20, 21 22) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as hdc), * [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp of V-st, rep from * across row, ending 1 hdc in top of tch, turn. Rep row 1 until piece measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 2 V-sts, ch 2 (counts as hdc), work patt as established to end of row, 1 hdc in tch, turn—17 (18, 19, 20) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Cont as established until armhole measures 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 (26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Fasten off.

right back Foundation row: With B and 8/H hook, work same as left back to armhole, ending with WS row. Armhole shaping: Work patt as established in next 17 (18, 19, 20) V-sts, work 1 hdc in sp before next V-st, turn, leave rem sts unworked— 17 (18, 19, 20) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Cont working same as left back until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With A and 8/H hook, work same as left back until armhole measures 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm], ending with WS row. Neck shaping: Work patt as established in first 8 (9, 10, 11) V-sts, work 1 hdc in next sp, turn, leave rem 9 V-sts unworked—8 (9, 10, 11) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Work even until piece is same length as back. Fasten off.

66 plus size crochet

V-stitch pattern is created by working a single crochet, chain 2, single crochet into each chain space of the previous row throughout.

right front Foundation row: With B and 8/H hook, work same as right back until armhole measures 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm], ending with WS row. Neck shaping: Sl st in first 9 V-sts, ch 2 (counts as hdc), work patt as established on rem 8 (9, 10, 11) V-sts. Work even until piece is same length as back. Fasten off.

sleeves Make one in A and one in B. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 60 (63, 66, 69). Work in patt as for back—19 (20, 21, 22) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Cont patt as for back for 1" (2.5 cm). Change to 8/H hook and work 1" (2.5 cm) more. Inc 1 st at each side, then rep inc every fifth row 11 times more—31 (32, 33, 34) V-sts and 1 hdc each side. Work even until sleeve measures 16" (16½", 17", 18") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 45.7) cm]. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew center fronts and backs together. 2. Sew shoulder seams. 3. Mark center of sleeve, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 4. Sew underarm seams, leaving 5" (12.7 cm) unsewn along each lower side edge for side vents. 5. Work trim. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Block to measurements.

bottom, sleeve, and neck trim Bottom trim: With A and 6/G hook, join yarn at top of right side vent, work sc evenly spaced to lower edge, * [1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 3, work 1 sc in first ch of ch 3, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc (picot shell completed)] in next V-st, work 1 sc in next V-st, repeat from * across bottom, at next side vent, work sc evenly spaced up one side vent and down other side, repeat from * along bottom edge to first side vent, sc evenly spaced up side vent to first st, Sl st in first st to join. Fasten off. Sleeve trim: With A and 6/G hook, join yarn at seam, repeat from * of bottom trim all around sleeve edge, Sl st in first st to join. Fasten off. Neck trim: With A and 6/G hook, join yarn at right shoulder seam, repeat from * of bottom trim all around neck edge, Sl st in first st to join. Fasten off.

color block tunic 67





denim ruffle bag Here’s a great handbag for everyday use. I saw a designer bag similar to this at Saks Fifth Avenue with a price tag of over $900! Think of the money you’ll save by crocheting

yarn Bulky-weight cotton Shown: Blue Jeans Cable by Schachenmayr, 100% cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/54 yd (50 m): Dark Denim #055, 10 balls

your own bag.

hooks 9/I (5.5 mm) for main body of bag 6/G (4 mm) for strap only

stitches Single crochet Single crochet through the back loop Double crochet

gauge 13 sc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 9/I hook

notions Tapestry needle ½ yd (.5 m) lining fabric (optional) Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size Approximately 10" x 14" (25.4 x 35.6 cm)

denim ruffle bag 69



notes Single Crochet Decreases (sc2tog) To dec, pick up lp in next st, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook.

back Foundation row: With 9/I hook, ch 44. Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across, turn—43 sc. Row 1: Working in BL throughout, ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first st, 1 sc in next 41, 1 sc in tch, turn. Repeat row 1 for 30 rows (15 ridges), turn. Next row: Ch 1, sk first st, sc2tog, sc in each st until last 3 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in tch, turn—41 sc. Next row: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep last 2 rows 2 times more—37 dc. Fasten off.

Single crochet rows produce a firm fabric for the body of the bag.

front Same as back.

flap Work in BL throughout. Foundation row: With 9/I hook, ch 32. Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across, turn—31 sc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in next st (sc increase made), 1 sc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st (sc increase made), 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), sk first st, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 until 39 sts. Rep row 2 for 14 rows more, then dec 1 st at each side every other row until 31 sts rem. Work 1 row even. Fasten off.

70 plus size crochet

ruffle Foundation row: With 9/I hook, ch 11. Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn—10 sc. Row 1: Working in BL, ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep row 1 for 170 rows (85 ridges). Do not fasten off, turn to work along one end of ruffle. Beading rnd 1: Work 1 sc in every other row end, Sl st to first sc to join. Do not turn. Rnd 2: Ch 4, sk 1 sc, 1 dc next sc, * ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc next st, rep from * around, ending ch 1, Sl st to top of beg ch to join. Fasten off.

strap and gusset Make in one piece. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn—6 sc. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), working in both loops, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn—6 sc.

Single crochet stitches worked through the back loop create a ribbed effect for the bag flap.

Rep row 1 until strap is 60" (152.4 cm) long. Do not fasten off. Work 1 row sc around entire strap. Fasten off.

tie With 6/G hook, ch 200. Fasten off.

finishing 1. If lining is desired, line back and front and part of strap that will form gusset before sewing together. See page 127. 2. Sew short ends of strap together, center this seam at bottom of bag, pin back of bag to gusset, sew in place. Pin front of bag in place and sew. 3. Pin beading edge of ruffle all around flap and sew in place. Thread tie through beading row, starting and ending at center front, tie in a bow. 4. Mark row at exact center of flap, pin to back top of bag, and sew in place at back only. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle.

denim ruffle bag 71





poncho with pizzazz Add a little dash to any outfit with this fun poncho. It is crocheted as two long rectangles and sewn together at the shoulders, leaving

yarn

an opening for your head. Wear it askew, with

Bulky-weight fringe (A), bulky-weight ribbon (B), medium-weight cotton (C, D, E)

one seam slightly forward and the other seam slightly back, to give an asymmetrical look.

Shown: (A) Cancun by S. Charles Collezione, 68% polyester, 8% cotton, 10% nylon, 14% viscose, 1.75 oz (50 g)/93 yd (85 m): #85, 8 balls (B) Rondo by S. Charles Collezione, 55% cotton, 35% viscose, 10% nylon, 1.75 oz (50 g)/88 yd (80 m): #5007, 2 balls (C, D, E) Cotton Classic by Tahki/Stacy Charles, 100% cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/108 yd (98 m): Green #3726 (C), 1 skein, Pink #3454 (D), 1 skein, Turquoise #3816 (E),1 skein.

hooks 9/I (5.5 mm) for poncho 6/G (4 mm) for embellishments

stitches Single crochet Half double crochet Double crochet

gauge 6 dc and 5 ch-2 sps = 4" (10.2 cm) using 9/I hook

notions Tapestry needle 8" (20.3 cm) cardboard

finished size One size 60" x 24" (152.4 x 61 cm)



notes Poncho is made in 2 pieces and joined at the shoulders.

poncho Make 2. Foundation row: With A and 9/I hook, ch 84. Starting in sixth ch from hook (counts as 1 dc, ch 2), work 1 dc, * ch 2, sk 2 chs, 1 dc in next ch, rep from * 26 times more, turn—28 ch-2 sps. Row 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, 1 dc in next dc, rep from * 25 times more, ch 2, 1 dc in third ch of tch, turn—28 ch-2 sps. Rep row 1 until piece measures 30" (76.2 cm) from beg. Fasten off. Mark this end for shoulders.

The main body of the poncho is a mesh of double crochet stitches.

flowers Make 7 with E. Foundation: With 6/G hook, ch 4, Sl st to first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc in center of ring. Do not turn. Rnd 2: * Ch 2, work 3 dc in next st, ch 2, Sl st in next st, repeat from * 4 times more, Sl st to first st to join—5 petals. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

butterfly Make 2 with D. Foundation: Ch 15, Sl st to first ch to form lp. Ch 15, Sl st to same st as you joined first lp—you now have 2 ch-15 lps. Ch 10, Sl st in same st as other lps are joined, ch 10, join in same st again— you now have 2 ch-15 lps and 2 ch-10 lps.

Flower and butterfly appliqués give your poncho a little whimsy.

74 plus size crochet

Next rnd: Working in first ch-15 lp, * work 5 sc, ch 4, 1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc, ch 8, 1 sc, ch 10, 1 sc, ch 8, 1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc, ch 4, 5 sc. Working in second ch-15 lp, rep from * once. Now working in next ch-10 loop, ** work 2 sc, ch 4, 1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc, ch 8, 1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc, ch 4, 2 sc, rep from ** in second ch-10 lp. Sl st to first st to join. Fasten off, leaving 18" (45.7 cm) tail of yarn for sewing. Wrap yarn tail around center 2 times to form body of butterfly, tie a knot underneath body, use rem yarn to sew to poncho.

leaves Make 3 with C. Foundation: Ch 15. Starting in sixth ch from hook, work 1 dc, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 3 chs, ch 3, 1 sc in same ch as last sc. Working on other side of foundation ch, work 1 sc in next 2 chs, 1 hdc in next 3 chs, 1 dc in next 3 chs, ch 3, Sl st in same st as last dc. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail of yarn for sewing.

finishing 1. Pin poncho rectangles together along one short end, 5" (12.7 cm) in from each long end, and sew. 2. Using photo on page 72 as a guide, sew flowers, butterfly, and leaves to poncho. 3. Attach fringe to long edges of poncho as follows: Wrap ribbon yarn (B) loosely around an 8" (20.3 cm) piece of cardboard about 20 times. Cut one end only. With wrong side facing you, using your crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn, place two strands in each open space along each long end of shawl and knot. Repeat the process until fringe is complete. 4. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle.

Ribbon yarn fringe finishes the edges in a riot of color.

poncho with pizzazz 75





lace pullover This loose-fitting pullover with its flattering boat neckline has vertical stripes of lacy stitches separated by ridges. It’s comfortable to wear and sure to become a favorite wardrobe item.

yarn Lightweight wool Shown: Extrafine by Mondial, 100% extrafine merino wool, 1.75 oz (50 g)/193 yd (177 m): Green #158, 11 (12, 13, 14) skeins

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main body 8/H (5 mm) for border edges

stitches Double crochet Front post double crochet Back post double crochet

gauge 2 repeats of (1 shell and 1 group of FPdc) = 4" (10.2 cm) using 6/G hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 48" (52", 56", 60") [121.9 (132.1, 142.2, 152.4) cm]

lace pullover 77



notes 1. Garment is worked from the top down. 2. See page 125 for instructions on FPdc and BPdc.

back Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 105 (113, 121, 129). Starting in sixth ch from hook, work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in same ch, * sk 2 ch, 1 dc in next 3 dc, sk 2 ch, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] next ch, rep from * 11 (12, 13, 14) times more, sk 2 ch, 1 dc last ch, turn—13 (14, 15, 16) shells and 12 (13, 14, 15) groups of 3 dc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, * sk 3 dc, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next ch-2 sp (shell made), sk 3 dc, 1 FPdc around each of next 3 dc, rep from * 11 (12, 13, 14) times more, ending sk 3 dc, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, * shell in center of next shell, 1 BPdc in next 3 dc, rep from * 11 (12, 13, 14) times more, ending shell in last shell, 1 dc in tch, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 23" (23½", 24", 24½") [58.4 (59.7, 61, 62.2) cm] from beg. Change to 8/H hook, continue patt as established for 2 more rows. Fasten off.

front Work same as back.

Ridges separating the double crochet shells are created with front post and back post double crochet stitches. The photo shows how they look as you crochet which is upside down from the way they appear in the sweater.

78 plus size crochet

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 81 (89, 97, 105). Work same as back on 10 (11, 12, 13) shells until piece measures 11" (12", 13", 14") [27.9 (30.5, 33, 35.6) cm] from beg. Change to 8/H hook, work for 2 more rows. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm] in from each side edge. 2. Fold sleeve in half and pin center to shoulder seam. Mark body 8½" (9", 9½", 10") [21.6 (22.9, 24.1, 25.4) cm] down from shoulder, pin ends of sleeves to this marker. Sew sleeve in place. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work neck trim. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 6. Do not block.

Because the pullover is worked from the top down, the last rows form a lovely scalloped edge.

neck trim With 6/G hook, join yarn at shoulder seam, starting at right shoulder, working across back of neck, work shell on shell and 3 FPdc on each FPdc, cont along front neck edge, back to beg, Sl st to first st to join. Fasten off.

The neck is trimmed with a row of shells and ridges worked upward from the foundation row.

lace pullover 79





pocket cardigan Classic styling, V-neck, and pockets combined with an easy textured stitch make this cardigan

yarn

a winner.

Bulky-weight one-ply Shown: Oasis Yarn by DJ International Textile, 50% acrylic, 50% wool, 1.75 oz (50 g)/87 yd (79 m). Purple #DJ-Y120-03, 18 (18, 19, 20) balls

hooks 10½/K (6.5 mm) for main body 9/I (5.5 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 5 dc groups = 4" (10.2 cm) using 10½/K hook

notions Tapestry needle Five wooden buttons, 1¼" (3.2 cm) diameter

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 48" (52", 56", 60") [121.9 (132.1, 142.2, 152.4) cm]

pocket cardigan 81



notes 1. To dec this patt, on dc rows, first dec will eliminate first dc of group, second dec will eliminate second dc of group. 2. To inc this patt, add 1 extra dc to group, then add second. When two inc are made, form another dc group.

back Foundation row: With 10½/K hook, ch 63 (69, 75, 81). Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end of row, turn—62 (68, 74, 80) sc. Row 1: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in next 60 (66, 72, 78) sc, 1 sc in tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 60 (66, 72, 78) sts, 1 dc in tch, turn— 62 (68, 74, 80) dc. Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in sp bet first 2 dc, * ch 2, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next space bet dc, rep from * 29 (32, 35, 38) times more, ending last rep with sc in tch, turn—30 (33, 36, 39) ch-2 sps and 1 sc each side. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), * 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 29 (32, 35, 38) times more, 1 dc in tch, turn—30 (33, 36, 39) dc groups and 1 dc each side. Rep rows 3 and 4 until piece measures 15½" (16", 16½" 17") [39.4 (40.6, 41.9, 43.2) cm] from beg, ending with row 4.

In this easy two-row pattern, single crochet stitches are worked into spaces between double crochet stitches in the row below; then double crochet stitches are worked into spaces between single crochet stitches in the next row.

82 plus size crochet

Armhole shaping: Sl st in first 3 dc groups, ch 3 (counts as 1 sc, ch 2), sk next 2 dc, 1 sc in next sp, * ch 2, sk 2 dc, 1 sc next sp, rep from * 22 (25, 28, 31) times more, turn, leave rem 3 groups of dc unworked—24 (27, 30, 33) ch-2 sps. Cont in patt as established until armhole measures 10" (10½", 11", 11½") [25.4 26.9, 27.9, 29.2) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 10½/K hook, ch 33 (35, 37, 39). Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end of row, turn—32 (34, 36, 38) sc. Row 1: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in next 30 (32, 34, 36) sc, 1 sc in tch, turn—32 (34, 36, 38) sc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 30 (32, 34, 36) sts, 1 dc in tch, turn—32 (34, 36, 38) dc. Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in sp bet first 2 dc, * ch 2, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next space bet dc, rep from * 14 (15, 16, 17) times more, ending last rep with sc in tch, turn—30 (33, 36, 39) ch-2 sps and 1 sc each side. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), * 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 14 (15, 16, 17) times more, 1 dc in tch, turn—15 (16, 17, 18) dc groups and 1 dc each side. Rep rows 3 and 4 until piece measures same length as back to armhole, ending with row 4. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 3 dc groups, ch 3 (counts as sc, ch 2), sk next group, 1 sc in next sp, * ch 2, sk 2 dc, 1 sc next sp, rep from * 11 (12, 13, 14) times more, turn—12 (13, 14, 15) ch-2 sps. Cont in patt as established, and at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge every dc row until 5 (6, 7, 8) dc groups rem. Work even until piece measures same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

right front Same as left front, reversing arm and neck shaping.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 9/I hook, ch 33 (35, 37, 39). Work same as front for first 4 rows—30 (33, 36, 39) ch-2 sps and 1 sc each side. Change to 10½/K hook and cont in patt until piece measures 6½" (16.5 cm) from beg, ending with row 3.

pocket cardigan 83

Inc 1 st each side. Rep inc every other dc row 5 times more—36 (39, 42, 45) ch-2 sps and 1 sc each side. Work even until sleeve measures 16½" (17", 17½", 18") [41.9 (43.2, 44.5, 45.7) cm] from beg, ending with row 4. Sleeve cap: Sl st in 3 dc groups, ch 3 (counts as 1 sc, ch 2), sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next sp, * ch 2, sk 2 dc, 1 sc next sp, rep from * to last 3 dc groups, turn, leave rem 3 dc groups unworked— 30 (33, 36, 39) ch-2 sps and 1 sc each side. Cont in patt as established until cap of sleeve measures 5½" (6", 6½", 7") [14 (15.2, 16.5, 17.8) cm]. Next row: Sl st in 7 sts, work patt to last 7 sts, turn, leave rem 7 sts unworked. Rep last row. Fasten off.

pockets

Patch pockets are crocheted separately and hand-sewn in place.

Make 2. Foundation row: With 10½/K hook, ch 21, work patt as back for 6½" (16.5 cm), ending with row 4. Next row: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc of row 4, turn. Next row: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc of prev row, fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Center pockets on each front, about 2½" (6.4 cm) up from bottom, pin, then sew in place. 5. Work border. 6. Sew buttons in place on cardigan front. 7. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 8. Do not block.

84 plus size crochet

front and neck border Row 1: With RS facing and 9/I hook, join yarn at bottom right edge and sc evenly spaced up right front, around neck, and down left front, turn. Row 2: Work 1 sc in each st, turn. Row 3: Rep row 2. Row 4 (buttonhole row): Before beg this row, pm for 5 buttonholes on right front—each buttonhole will take 3 sts. Have first buttonhole at beg of V-neck and last about 1" (2.5 cm) from bottom. Work in sc to first marker, * ch 3, sk 3 sts, work in sc to next marker, rep from * 4 times more (5 buttonholes made), work to end, turn. Row 5: Work 1 sc in each sc, 3 sc in each ch-3 sp for buttonhole, turn. Row 6: Work 1 sc in each sc, turn. Row 7: Rep row 6, fasten off.

A wide border of single crochet rows accents the V-neckline and bold button bands.

pocket cardigan 85





bamboo cardigan This V-neck cardigan has subtle shaping at the waistline, giving it a very flattering shape. The bamboo yarn is wonderfully soft and has lustrous color. Choose a color to complement your skin tones.

yarn Medium-weight bamboo Shown: Royal Bamboo by Plymouth, 100% bamboo, 1.75 oz (50 g)/93 yd (85 m): Coral #40, 16 (17, 18, 19) skeins

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet Front post double crochet

gauge 14 sc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notions Tapestry needle Three buttons, ¾" (1.9 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 49" (51", 53", 56") [124.5 (129.5, 134.6, 142.2) cm]

bamboo cardigan 87



notes 1. To work a cross stitch CL, work 1 dc in indicated stitch, then work a dc by yo, insert hook from front to back around the dc just made, pick up long lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] twice. 2. Single Crochet Decreases (sc2tog) To dec, pick up lp in next st, yo, pick up lp in next st, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. 3. To dec on CL row, after having dec on prev sc row, on next CL row, eliminate first and last CL by ch 3 to beg, sk first CL and work next dc over next CL, work across row, eliminate last CL, 1 dc in tch. 4. To work sc inc, ch 1, turn, sk first st, work 2 sc in next st, work in sc to next to last st, work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in tch. 5. To inc on CL row, after having made sc inc on prev row, ch 3, work dc and new cluster in inc st from prev row, cont patt across row, work dc and new CL in inc st from prev row, ending with dc in tch.

back Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 87 (91, 95, 99). Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn—86 (90, 94, 98) sc. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first st, 1 sc in next 84 (88, 92, 96) sts, 1 sc in tch, turn. Row 2: Rep row 1. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, * 1 dc next st, 1 dc around post of dc just made, sk 1 st, rep from * 41 (43, 45, 47) times more, 1 dc in tch, turn—42 (44, 46, 48) cross stitch CL and 1 dc each side.

In this pattern, on rows that alternate with single crochet rows, every other double crochet stitch is worked around the post of the previous double crochet, making an interesting cross stitch.

88 plus size crochet

Row 4: Ch 1, sk first st, 1 sc in next 84 (88, 92, 96) sts, 1 sc in top of tch, turn—86 (90, 94, 98) sc. Rep rows 3 and 4 until piece measures 3" (7.6 cm) from beg, change to 6/G hook and cont rep rows 3 and 4 for 2" (5.1 cm) more. Change back to 8/H hook and cont patt until piece measures 13½" (14", 14½", 15") [34.3 (35.6, 36.8, 38.1) cm] from beg, ending with row 3. Armhole shaping: Working row 4, keeping patt as established, Sl st in 3 cross stitch CL, cont in sc to last 3 cross stitch CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Work 1 row, turn—36 (38, 40, 42) cross stitch CL and 1 dc each side. Next row: Ch 1, sk first st, sc2tog, cont in sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in top of tch, turn.

Subtle shaping at the waist makes the front bands flare slightly below the three buttons.

Next row: Ch 3, omit 1 cross stitch CL, work row 3 across row to last CL, omit last cross stitch CL, 1 dc in tch—34 (36, 38, 40) cross stitch CL and 1 dc each side. Cont in pattern as established until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 45 (47, 49, 51). Work same as back on 44 (46, 48, 50) sc and 21 (22, 23, 24) cross stitch CL, being sure to change hooks for waist shaping. Cont until same length as back to armhole, ending with row 3. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 3 cross stitch CL, finish row 4 to front edge, turn. Work 1 row, turn—18 (19, 20, 21) cross stitch clusters and 1 dc each side. Next row: Ch 1, sk first st, sc2tog, cont in sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog for neck, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Next row: Ch 3, omit 1 cross stitch CL, work row 3 across row to last CL, omit last cross stitch CL, 1 dc in tch—16 (17, 18, 19) cross stitch CL and 1 dc each side. Cont in pattern as established, dec at neck edge on every patt row 4 and eliminating 1 cross stitch CL at neck edge on every patt row 3 until 7 (8, 9, 10) cross stitch CL rem. Work even in patt as established until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

bamboo cardigan 89

right front Work same as left front until same length to armhole, ending with row 3. Armhole shaping: Work row 4 to last 3 cross stitch CL, turn, leave rem 3 cross stitch CL unworked. Cont in patt as established as for left front, reversing neck and armhole shaping.

sleeves Make 2. With 6/G hook, ch 45 (47, 49, 51). Work same as back on 44 (46, 48, 50) sc and 21 (22, 23, 24) cross stitch CL for 2" (5.1 cm). Change to 8/H hook and work 2" (5.1 cm) more, ending with row 3. On row 4, work sc inc at beg and end of row, turn. On row 3, form new cross stitch CL at beg and end of row, turn. Work 2 rows even. Rep last 4 rows until you have 32 (34, 36, 38) cross stitch CL total. Work even until sleeve measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg, ending with row 3. Sleeve cap: Sl st in 3 cross stitch CL, work sc to last 3 cross stitch CL, turn, leave rem sts unworked—26 (28, 30, 32) cross stitch CL. Work even in patt as established until sleeve cap measures 3" (3½", 4", 4½") [7.6 (8.9, 10.2, 11.4) cm], ending with row 3. Dec 1 st each edge every row 6 times—20 (22, 24, 26) cross stitch CL, ending with row 3. Next row: Sl st in 3 cross stitch CL, work in sc to last 3 cross stitch CL, turn, leave rem 3 cross stitch CL unworked. Next row: Sl st in 3 cross stitch CL, ch 3, work row 3 to last 3 cross stitch CL, turn, leave rem 3 cross stitch CL unworked. Work 1 patt row 4. Fasten off.

90 plus size crochet

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work borders. 5. Sew buttons in place on cardigan front. 6. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 7. Do not block.

front and neck border Row 1: With 6/G hook, join yarn at bottom right corner, work in sc evenly spaced along right front, around neck, and down left front to bottom, turn. Row 2: Work 1 sc in each sc, turn. Row 3 (buttonhole row): Pm in st 20 sts below start of V-neck shaping. Work in sc to marker, * ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sc, rep from * once, ch 2, sk 2 sts, cont in sc all around to bottom left front (3 buttonholes made), turn. Row 4: Work 1 sc in each sc worked, working 2 sc in each ch-2 sp to complete buttonhole, turn. Row 5: Rep row 2. Row 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, sk 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * to bottom of right front, fasten off.

Single-crochet rows form a stable band for the neck and button bands. A simple chain-stitch picot edging adds a touch of femininity.

bamboo cardigan 91

bright stripes cardigan Bright stripes of color against a black background make a bold fashion statement. The vertical stripes on the sweater front lengthen the look and draw eyes upward to your face.

yarn Medium-weight cotton Shown: Cotton Classic by Tahki, 100% mercerized cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/108 yd (100 m): Black #3002 (A), 15 (15, 16, 17) skeins, Turquoise, #3807 (B), 2 skeins, Burgundy #3747 (C), 1 (1, 2, 2) skeins

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body of garment 6/G (4 mm) for borders

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 6½ clusters = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notions Tapestry needle Five buttons, 5/8" (1.6 cm) diameter Hand-sewing needle Thread

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 48" (50", 54", 58") [121.9 (127, 137.2, 147.3) cm]

bright stripes cardigan 93

notes 1. Both fronts and back of this garment are worked sideways. The back is made in 2 sections, starting in center, working toward outside edge. Each front is started at front edge and worked toward side edge. 2. Do not try to carry colors across rows, but fasten off each color as that color stripe is finished. 3. To inc this pattern, start inc row with 2 dc in first st, and end with 1 sc and 1 dc in tch, on next inc row, form new CL in added sts.

back Entire back is made in A. Left side: Foundation row: Starting at center back, with A and 8/H hook, ch 86 (88, 90, 92). Starting in third ch from hook (counts as sc), 1 dc in next ch, * sk 1 ch, [1 sc, 1 dc] in next ch, rep from * to last 2 ch, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in last ch, turn—42 (43, 44, 45) CL. Mark end of row for top left back. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), 1 dc in first st, * sk 1 dc, [1 sc, 1 dc] in next sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep row 1 until piece measures 12" (12½", 13½", 14½") [30.5 (31.8, 34.3, 36.8) cm] from beg. Fasten off. Right side: Same as left side, except mark beg of foundation row for top right back.

Rows of clusters, each made from one single crochet and one double crochet stitch, are worked side to side rather than from bottom to top.

left front Starting at center front, with A and 8/H hook, ch 72 (74, 76, 78). Work foundation row as for back—35 (36, 37, 38) CL. Mark end of foundation row for top left front. Work patt for 4 rows. Beg stripe patt: Working in patt, work 4 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows A, 4 rows B, 1 row of C. At end of last row do not fasten off C.

94 plus size crochet

Shape neck: Ch 14, turn. Working new patt across ch, work patt across row with C, turn—42 (43, 44, 45) CL. Stripe patt: Working in patt, work 2 rows A, 4 rows B, 2 rows C. With A, work in patt until piece measures 12" (12½", 13", 13½") [30.5 (31.8, 33, 34.3) cm] from beg. Fasten off.

right front Same as left, marking beg of foundation row for top of right front, reverse stripes and neck shaping.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With A and 6/G hook, ch 42 (44, 48, 50). Work patt as for back—20 (21, 22, 23) CL. Work in patt for 2" (5.1 cm). Change to 8/H hook, work 2" (5.1 cm) more, inc 1 st each edge and rep inc every 1½" (3.8 cm) 7 times more—8 inc in all, 24 (25, 26, 27) CL. Work even until sleeve measure 16½" (17", 17½", 18") [41.9 (43.2, 44.5, 45.7) cm] from beg. Fasten off.

Sleeves are worked from the wrist upward.

bright stripes cardigan 95

Wide square neckline is finished off with a narrow band of single crochet rows.

finishing 1. Sew both back pieces together at center back. 2. Sew shoulder seams. 3. Mark body 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm] down from shoulder. Pin in sleeve, placing center of sleeve on shoulder seam, and each end by marker, sew in sleeve. 4. Sew underarm seams, leaving lower 5" (5½", 5½", 6") [12.7 (14, 14, 15.2) cm] unsewn for side vents. 5. Work border and button bands. 6. Sew on buttons. 7. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 8. Do not block.

96 plus size crochet

neck border and button bands Foundation row: With A and 6/G hook, join yarn at top right corner, work sc evenly spaced along top right front, around neck, and along top left front to corner, turn. Work a second row of sc. Fasten off. Button bands: Row 1: With A and 6/G hook, join yarn at bottom right corner, work sc evenly spaced up right front to neck edge, work 3 sc in corner, cont sc along top right front around neck to left front corner, work 3 sc in corner, sc down left front, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to top corner, work 3 sc in center st for corner, cont sc around neck to top right corner, work 3 sc in center corner st, * ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next 10 (11, 11, 12) sts, rep from * 4 times more (5 buttonholes made), cont sc to bottom right front, turn. Row 3: Sc in each st, working 2 sc in each ch-2 space, cont up right front to corner, 3 sc in center corner st, cont around neck edge to left top corner, 3 sc in center corner st, cont down left front. Do not fasten off. Work 1 row sc all around bottom left side, up side vent, down other side, cont along bottom back, along second side vent, and along bottom right front, Sl st to first st. Fasten off.

bright stripes cardigan 97

aran-style jacket Here is a great casual jacket for cool days or evenings. The interesting pattern is a little challenging but not too difficult to master. If you prefer buttons, sew them on and button them into the spaces between the double crochets.

yarn Lightweight wool Shown: Gramercy by Lily Chin Signature Collection, 100% merino wool, 1.75 oz (50 g)/127 yd (116 m): Turquoise #8637,16 (17, 18, 19) balls

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for sleeve cuffs

stitches Single crochet Double crochet Front post double crochet Back post double crochet

gauge 14 dc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 50" (52", 54", 56") [127 (132.1, 137.2, 142.2) cm]

aran-style jacket 99

notes 1. The CL and post patt, once established, do not change for each size. The sts on either side adjust for size changes. 2. The CL must be worked loosely. If puffs tend to go to WS of work, you are probably working too tightly. They can be pushed gently to RS of work. 3. To work CL (worked on dc): [Yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps] 5 times, yo through all 6 lps. 4. Double crochet inc: To inc dc row, ch 3, sk first st, work 2 dc in next st, work to end of row, 2 dc in last dc, 1 dc in top of tch.

back Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 89 (91, 93, 95). Starting in third ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across row—86 (88, 90, 92) dc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 FPdc in next dc, sk 1 dc, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st (V-st made), sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc, [(yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps) 5 times, yo and pull through 6 lps (CL made)], ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc *, rep from * to * once, 1 FPdc, sk 1 dc, V-st in next st, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, rep from * to * twice, 1 FPdc in next dc, sk 1 dc, V-st in next dc, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in last 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—4 CL panels and 5 FPdc panels. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 BPdc in next post, V-st in next ch-1 sp, 1 BPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in top of next CL, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in next 3 dc *, rep from * to * once, 1 BPdc in next post, V-st in ch-1 sp, BPdc in next st, 1 dc in next 8 dc, rep from * to * twice, 1 BPdc in next post, 1 V-st in next ch-1 sp, 1 BPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Row 3 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 FPdc in next post, sk 1 dc, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next ch-1 sp (V-st made), sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc next dc [(yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps) 5 times, yo through 6 lps (CL made)], ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc *rep from * to * once, 1 FPdc next post, sk 1 dc, V-st in ch-1 sp, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 8 dc, rep from * to * twice, 1 FPdc next post, sk 1 st, V-st in ch-1 sp, sk 1 st, FPdc in next post, 1 dc in last 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—4 CL panels and 5 FPdc panels. Rep rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 15½" (16", 16½", 17") [39.4 (40.6, 41.9, 43.2) cm] from beg, ending with row 2.

100 plus size crochet

Columns of puff stitches—double crochet clusters—are separated by ridges that result from front post and back post double crochets.

Armhole shaping: Sl st in 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, work to last 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, turn, leaving last 4 (4, 5, 5) sts unworked—2 (3, 3, 4) dc each side with patt as established in center. Cont to keep patt as established, working on rem 78 (80, 80, 82) sts until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

left front Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 48 (50, 52, 54). Starting in third ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across row—45 (47, 49, 51) dc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 FPdc in next dc, sk 1 dc, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st (V-st made), sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc, [(yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps) 5 times, yo and pull through 6 lps (CL made)], ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc *, rep from * to * once, 1 FPdc in next dc, sk 1 dc, V-st in next dc, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in last 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 BPdc in next post, V-st in next ch-1 sp, 1 BPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in top of next CL, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, 1 dc in next 3 dc *, rep from * to * once, 1 BPdc in next post, V-st in next ch-1 sp, 1 BPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Row 3 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 FPdc in next post, sk 1 dc, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next ch-1 sp (V-st made), sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc next dc [(yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps) 5 times, yo through 6 lps (CL made)], ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc * rep from * to * once, 1 FPdc next post, sk 1 dc, V-st in next ch-1 sp, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next post, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Rep rows 2 and 3 until same length as back to armhole, ending with row 2. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, cont patt as established on rem 41 (43, 44, 46) sts, turn. Collar shaping: You will not inc or dec to shape collar, but you will eliminate CL and post patt and form new sts in dc in their place. Next row (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, work dc in next 6 (7, 8, 9) omitting 1 BPdc, cont patt to end of row. Cont in this manner with one more dc at neck edge and one less patt st at same time every row until there are 20 (21, 22, 23) dc at front neck edge, 2 post and V-st panels, 1 CL panel, 2 (3, 3, 4) dc at side edge—41 (43, 44, 46) sts. Work even until same length as back to shoulder, ending with row 2. Shoulder shaping: Sl st in 24 (25, 26, 27) sts, ch 3, work dc on rem 16 (17, 17, 18), turn.

aran-style jacket 101

collar Next row: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn— 17 (18, 18, 19) dc. Rep last row until collar measures 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm] from shoulder shaping. Fasten off.

right front With 8/H hook, work same as left front until piece measures same length as left front to armhole, ending with row 1. Work in patt to last 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Work same as left front, adding 1 more dc and eliminating one patt st every row until there are 20 (21, 22, 23) dc at front edge—41 (43, 44, 46) sts, 2 post and V-st panels, 1 CL panel, 2 (3, 3, 4) dc at side edge. Work even until same length as back to shoulder, ending with row 1. Shoulder shaping: Sl st in 24 (25, 26, 27) sts, ch 3, work dc on rem 16 (17, 17, 18), turn.

Front bands and shawl collar are worked “as one” with the front pieces. Later, the collar is seamed at center back and stitched to the sweater back.

Collar: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—17 (18, 18, 19) dc. Rep last row until collar measures 8" (8½", 9", 9½") [20.3 (21.6, 22.9, 24.1) cm] from shoulder shaping. Fasten off.

102 plus size crochet

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 46 (48, 50, 52). Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across row, turn—45 (47, 49, 51) dc. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first sc, 1 sc in next 44 (46, 48, 50) sc, turn. Rep row 1 for 3 rows. Start pattern: Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, * 1 FPdc in next dc, sk 1 dc, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st (V-st made), sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc, [(yo, draw up lp around post of last dc worked, yo through 2 lps) 5 times, yo and pull through 6 lps (CL made)], ch 1, sk next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc *, rep from * to * once, 1 FPdc, sk 1 dc, V-st in next dc, sk 1 dc, 1 FPdc in next dc, 1 dc in last 5 (6, 7, 8) dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Work in patt as established for 2" (5.1 cm). Inc 1 dc each edge on next row. Change to 8/H hook and, keeping patt as established on center sts, inc 1 dc each edge every third row 11 (12, 13, 14) times more—18 (20, 22, 24) dc each side, 3 post and V-st panels, and 2 CL panels. Work even until sleeve measures 18½" (19", 19½", 20") [47 (48.3, 49.5, 50.8) cm]. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Sew ends of collar together. Pin, centering collar on center back, sew to back of neck, easing collar into place. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 6. Do not block.

aran-style jacket 103

elegant mohair shawl Wrap yourself in the luxury of this fine kid mohair shawl. Generous dimensions, open-work lacy pattern, and wonderful softness add up to sheer wonder.

yarn Medium-weight mohair Shown: 100% 7-Ply Kid Mohair by Wagtail Yarns, 100% fine kid mohair, 3.5 oz (100 g)/273 yd (250 m): Blue, 6 skeins

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main part 8/H (5 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 18 sc = 4" (10.2 cm) on 6/G hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 25" x 90" (63.5 x 228.6 cm)

elegant mohair shawl 105

shawl Make 2 pieces alike. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 114. Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across row, turn—113 sc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first st, 1 dc in next 4 dc, * sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 4 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, rep from * 7 times more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—9 shell panels with 5-dc panels bet and 5-dc panel at beg and end. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, * sk ch-2 sp, 5 dc in first dc of shell, 1 dc in next 5 dc, rep from * 8 times more, ending last rep 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—9 shell panels with 5-dc panels bet and 5-dc panel at beg and end. Rep row 2 until piece measures 43" (109.2 cm) from beg. Change to 8/H hook and work for 2" (5.1 cm) more. Fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew 2 pieces together at foundation chains. 2. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 3. Do not block.

Clusters of double crochets, tipped in alternating directions, form stripes that travel the length of the shawl.

106 plus size crochet

107

short-sleeve pullover The unusual treatment of the hemline of this pullover adds interest with an exciting diagonal line. The shallow V-neckline is finished with a chain-stitch ruffle—very flattering.

yarn Lightweight cotton Shown: Grace by Patons, 100% cotton, 1.75 oz (50 g)/136 yd (125 m): Azure #60104, 12 (13, 14, 15) balls

hooks 6/G (4 mm) for main body 5/F (3.75 mm) for trim

stitches Single crochet Double crochet

gauge 5 clusters = 4" (10.2 cm) using 6/G hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 49" (53", 56", 59") [124.5 (134.6, 142.2, 149.9) cm]

short-sleeve pullover 109

notes 1. Cluster stitch: [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in designated st or sp. 2. To dec cluster stitch at beg of row: Ch 3, eliminating first dc, work [1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc]. On next row, ch 3, eliminate second dc. On third row, eliminate whole CL and go to next CL. 3. To dec cluster stitch at end of row: Work to last CL, eliminating 1 dc, work [1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in last CL, 1 dc in tch. On next row, eliminate second dc, work 1 dc in tch. On third row, eliminate entire CL, ending with 1 dc in tch. 4. In order to form “steps” when beg this design, it is necessary to ch new sts and form new patts as you work. Be sure you do not twist added ch as you proceed.

back Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 22 (28, 34, 40). Starting in fourth ch from hook (counts as dc), work [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch, * sk 2 ch, [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch, rep from * 4 (6, 8, 10) times more, ending 1 dc in last ch, turn—6 (8, 10, 12) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 1: Ch 3, * [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 5 (7, 9, 11) times more, ending 1 dc in top of tch, turn—6 (8, 10, 12) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 2: Rep row 1, ending with ch 20, turn. Row 3: Starting in fourth ch from hook (counts as dc), * work [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch, sk 2 ch, rep from * 4 times more across ch, work in patt as established to end of row, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—11 (13, 15, 17) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 4: Ch 3, rep row 1 across row, end with 1 dc top of tch, turn. Row 5: Rep row 1, turn. Row 6: Rep row 1, ending with ch 20, turn. Row 7: Rep row 3, adding 5 new CL across ch-20, then working patt as established across row, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—16 (18, 20, 22) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 8: Rep row 1, turn. Row 9: Rep row 1, turn. Row 10: Rep row 1, ending with ch 20, turn.

110 plus size crochet

Clusters of two double crochets, two chains, and a single crochet form each row and are worked into the chain spaces of the row below.

Row 11: Rep row 3, adding 5 new CL across ch-20, then working patt as established across row, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—21 (23, 25, 27) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 12: Rep row 1, turn. Row 13: Rep row 1, turn. Row 14: Rep row 1, ending with ch 20, turn. Row 15: Rep row 3, adding 5 new CL across ch-20, then working patt as established across row, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—26 (28, 30, 32) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 16: Rep row 1, turn. Row 17: Rep row 1, turn. Row 18: Rep row 1, ending with ch 20, turn. Row 19: Rep row 3, adding 5 new CL across ch-20, then working patt as established across row, 1 dc in top of tch, turn—31 (33, 35, 37) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Cont patt as established on 31 (33, 35, 37 CL until piece measures 16" (16½", 17", 17½") [40.6 (41.9, 43.2, 44.5) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Sl st in first 2 CL, ch 3, cont patt as established in next 27 (29, 31, 33) CL, work 1 dc in sp bet last CL just worked and next CL to form new tch, turn, leave rem sts unworked. First dec row: Dec 1 dc in first CL, cont across row, dec 1 st in last CL, turn. Second dec row: Ch 3, omit first partial CL, work as established to last partial CL, sk last CL, ending with dc in top of tch—25 (27, 29, 31) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Work in patt as established until armhole measures 9½" (10", 10½", 11") [24.1 (25.4, 26.9, 27.9) cm]. Fasten off.

front Same as back until armhole measures 2½" (3", 3½", 4") [6.4 (7.6, 8.9, 10.2) cm]. Divide for neck: Left side: Work across 12 (13, 14, 15) CL, work dc bet last CL worked and next CL to form new tch, turn, leave rem 13 (14, 15, 16) CL unworked. Cont working in patt as established on 12 (13, 14, 15) CL until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm], ending with WS row.

short-sleeve pullover 111

Neck shaping: Work across 8 (8, 9, 9) CL, work 1 dc bet last CL made and next CL to form new tch, turn, leave rem 4 (5, 5, 6) CL unworked. Working on 8 (8, 9, 9) CL, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 4 times—6 (6, 7, 7) CL rem. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off. Right side: Sk center CL, join yarn in next CL, ch 3, work patt on rem 12 (13, 14, 14) CL, turn. Keeping patt as established, work on 12 (13, 14, 15) CL until armhole measures 7" (7½", 8", 8½") [17.8 (19.1, 20.3, 21.6) cm], ending with WS row. Neck shaping: Sl st in first 4 (5, 5, 6) CL, ch 3, work patt on rem 8 (8, 9, 9) CL, turn. Working on 8 (8, 9, 9) CL, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 4 times—6 (6, 7, 7) CL rem. Work even until same length as back to shoulder. Fasten off.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: Using 5/F hook, ch 73 (79, 85, 91). Starting in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch, turn—72 (78, 84, 90) sc. Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first sc, 1 sc in each sc across row, turn. Row 2: Rep row 1, turn. Begin patt: Row 1: Change to 6/G hook. Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 2 sc, * [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc, sk 2 sc, rep from * 22 (24, 26, 28) times more, end with 1 dc in top of tch, turn—23 (25, 27, 29) CL with 1 dc at each edge. Row 2: Ch 3, * [2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc] in ch-2 space of next CL, rep from * 22 (24, 26, 28) times more, ending with 1 dc in top of tch, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 until sleeve measures 6" (6½", 7", 7½") [15.2 (16.5, 17.8, 19.1) cm] from beg. Sleeve cap: Sl st in first 2 CL, ch 3, cont patt in next 19 (21, 23, 25) CL, work 1 dc bet last CL worked and next CL, turn, leave rem 2 CL unworked. Work 2 rows even. Dec 1 st each edge every row until 7 CL remain. Fasten off.

112 plus size crochet

Picot edging trims the neckline and sleeve ends.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams, being sure that long and short sides of body match. 2. Mark center of sleeve cap, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve, easing in to fit. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work neck and sleeve borders. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 6. Block to measurements.

neck border Row 1: With 5/F hook, starting at bottom right side of neck opening, work 1 row sc evenly spaced up right front, work 3 sc in last st for corner, cont around neck, along back to top of left front, work 3 sc in last st for corner, cont down left front to bottom of neck opening, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first st, work 1 sc in each sc, working 3 sc in center st of each corner, turn. Row 3: 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, 1 sc in next st, rep from * around neck opening until last 1½" (3.8 cm) of lower left front, fasten off. Place right front edging over left front edging and sew in place to form placket. Sew bottom of placket in space between left and right fronts.

sleeve border With 5/F hook, join yarn at underarm seam, * ch 5, 1 sc in next st, rep from * around bottom of sleeve, fasten off. Rep for other sleeve.

short-sleeve pullover 113

bow tie pullover This garment requires minimal shaping and finishing. While the stitch is unusual, it is not too difficult to master, and the pattern creates flattering vertical lines.

yarn Lightweight acrylic Shown: Astra by Patons, 100% acrylic, 1.75 oz (50 g)/133 yd (122 m): Bright Lilac #02315, 11 (12, 13, 14) balls

hooks 8/H (5 mm) for main body 6/G (4 mm) for trim

stitch Single crochet

gauge 12 sc = 4" (10.2 cm) using 8/H hook

notion Tapestry needle

finished size 1X (2X, 3X, 4X) Bust size 49" (52", 54", 56") [124.5 (132.1, 137.2, 142.2) cm]

bow tie pullover 115

notes The bow ties are made by creating chains of 7 sts on 3 rows, then gathering center of chains with 1 sc over all 3 chains on fourth row.

back Foundation row: With 8/H hook, ch 75 (79, 83, 87). Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across row, turn—74 (78, 82, 86) sc. Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 72 (76, 80, 84) sc, 1 sc in tch, turn. Row 2: Rep row 1. Bow tie pattern: Row 1: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, * ch 7, sk next 7 sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, ch 7, sk 7 sc, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, * ch 7, sk ch-7 lp, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, ch 7, sk ch-7 lp, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Row 3: Rep patt row 2. Row 4: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, * ch 3, 1 sc over all 3 bars created by ch-7 lps, ch 3 (bow tie made), 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, ending last rep 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn.

A single crochet stitch encases the loose chains made in the three previous rows to create the bow tie look.

116 plus size crochet

Row 5: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, * ch 7, sk bow tie, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, ch 7, sk bow tie, ending last rep 1 sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep patt rows 2–5 until piece measures 15½" (16", 16½", 17") [39.4 (40.6, 41.9, 43.2) cm] from beg. Armhole shaping: Sl st in 7 sts, keep patt as established to last 7 sts, turn, leave rem 7 sts unworked. Cont patt until armhole measures 8½" (9", 9½", 10") [21.6 (22.9, 24.1, 25.4) cm], ending with row 4. Shape left side of neck: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 6 (8, 10, 12) sc, ch 7, sk bow tie, 1 sc in next 3 sc, turn, leave rem sts unworked. Next row: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ch 7, sk ch-7 lp, 1 sc in next 6 (8, 10, 12) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Cont patt as established on these sts until 1 bow tie patt is completed, ending with row 4. Fasten off. Shape right side of neck: Sk center sts, join yarn in third st before last bow tie, ch 1, 1 sc in next 3 sc, ch 7, sk bow tie, 1 sc in next 6 (8, 10, 12) sc, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Complete as for left side of neck.

front Work same as back.

sleeves Make 2. Foundation row: With 6/G hook, ch 46. Work border as back. Bow tie pattern: Row 1: Working with 6/G hook for sizes 1X and 2X and 8/H hook for sizes 3X and 4X, ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, * ch 7, sk next 7 sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, * ch 7, sk ch-7 lp, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, 1 sc in top of tch, turn.

Row 3: Rep patt row 2. Row 4: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc * ch 3, 1 sc over all 3 bars created by ch-7 lps, ch 3 (bow tie made), 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, * ch 7, sk bow tie, 1 sc in next 6 sc, rep from * twice more, 1 sc in top of tch, turn. Rep patt rows 2–5 once. Change to 8/H hook for all sizes and cont patt, inc 1 st each edge. Then rep inc each edge every fifth row 8 (9, 10, 11) times more (inc sts will be kept in sc). Work even in patt as established until sleeve measures 18" (19", 20", 21") [45.7 (48.3, 50.8, 53.3) cm] from beg, ending with row 4. Next row: Ch 1, sk first sc, 1 sc in each sc and each ch across row, fasten off.

finishing 1. Sew shoulder seams. 2. Mark center of sleeve top, pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam, pin underarms in place, sew in sleeve. 3. Sew underarm seams. 4. Work neck and sleeve ruffles. 5. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. 6. Block to measurements.

neck and sleeve ruffles Neck ruffle: With RS facing, join yarn with Sl st at right shoulder, 1 sc, * ch 5, 1 sc in next st, rep from * around neck edge, Sl st to first sc to join. Sleeve ruffle: Join yarn with Sl st at seam. Work same as neck ruffle.

A chain-stitch picot edging ruffles softly at the neckline and sleeve ends.

118 plus size crochet

All crochet begins with a chain, into which is worked the foundation row for your piece. To make a chain, start with a slip knot. To make a slip knot, make a loop several inches from the end of the yarn, insert the hook through the loop, and catch the tail with the end (1). Draw the yarn through the loop on the hook (2). After the slip knot, start your chain. Wrap the yarn over the hook (yarn over), and catch it with the hook. Draw the yarn through the loop on the hook. You have now made 1 chain. Repeat the process to make a row of chains. When counting chains, do not count the slip knot at the beginning or the loop that is on the hook (3). 1

2

crochet stitches

slip knot and chain

3

slip stitch The slip stitch is a very short stitch, which is mainly used to join 2 pieces of crochet together when working in rounds. To make a slip stitch, insert the hook into the specified stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook (1), and then draw the yarn through the stitch and the loop already on the hook (2). 1

2

crochet stitches 119

single crochet Insert the hook into the specified stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 2 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook again and draw the yarn through both loops (2). When working in single crochet, always insert the hook through both top loops of the next stitch, unless the directions specify front loop or back loop only. 1

2

single crochet two stitches together This decreases the number of stitches in a row or round by 1. Insert the hook into the specified stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 2 loops on the hook. Insert the hook through the next stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 3 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw the yarn through all the loops at once (2). 1

120 plus size crochet

2

single crochet through the back loop This creates a distinct ridge on the side facing you. Insert the hook through the back loop only of each stitch, rather than under both loops of the stitch. Complete the single crochet as usual.

reverse single crochet This stitch is usually used to create a border. At the end of a row, chain 1, but do not turn. Working backward, insert the hook into the previous stitch (1), wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 2 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw the yarn through both loops. Continue working in the reverse direction (2). 1

2

half double crochet Wrap the yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 3 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it through all 3 loops at once (2). 1

2

crochet stitches 121

double crochet Wrap the yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 3 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 2 loops on the hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through the last 2 loops (3). 1

2

3

double crochet two stitches together This decreases the number of stitches in a row or round by 1. Wrap the yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 2 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pick up a loop in the next stitch, so there are now 4 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, and draw through 3 loops to complete the stitch.

122 plus size crochet

double crochet through the back loop This creates a distinct ridge on the side facing you. Wrap the yarn over the hook, and insert the hook through the back loop only of each stitch, rather than under both loops of the stitch. Complete the double crochet as usual.

triple crochet Wrap the yarn over the hook twice, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 4 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again (1), and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 3 loops on the hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 2 loops on the hook (3). Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through the last 2 loops (4). 1

2

3

4

crochet stitches 123

triple treble crochet Wrap the yarn over the hook 4 times, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 6 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 5 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 4 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 2 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through the last 2 loops (2). 1

2

triple crochet two stitches together In this book, for the silk scoop-neck cardigan on page 58, tr2tog is used to create a cluster. Wrap the yarn over the hook twice, insert the hook into the specified stitch, and wrap the yarn over the hook again. Draw the yarn through the stitch so there are 4 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops so there are now 2 loops on the hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook twice and pick up a loop in the same stitch, so there are now 5 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops to complete the stitch (2). 1

124 plus size crochet

2

front post double crochet This stitch follows a row of double crochet. Chain 3 to turn. Wrap the yarn over the hook. Working from the front, insert the hook from right to left (left to right for left-handed crocheters) under the post of the first double crochet from the previous row, and pick up a loop (shown). Wrap the yarn over the hook and complete the stitch as a double crochet.

Left-handed

Right-handed

back post double crochet Work this stitch like front post double crochet, but work from the back. Insert the hook over the post of the double crochet from the previous row and complete the stitch.

shell stitch Make 2 double crochets, chain 1, and then work 2 more double crochets in the same stitch (shown). This is often called a cluster. In the following row, work the same cluster into the space created by the chain stitch. Other versions of the shell stitch may have more than 2 double crochets and more than 1 chain stitch between them.

crochet stitches 125

picking up stitches for borders Picking up stitches along the sides of a project, the row ends, is the hardest part of giving your crochet pieces a lovely finished look. It is worth the effort to practice a little to get this step just right. The general rule of thumb is to pick up 1 stitch in every other row for single crochet (1). For instance, if you have worked 20 rows of single crochet, you will pick up 10 stitches along the row ends. Pick up 1 stitch for every row for double crochet (2). For instance, if you have worked 20 rows of double crochet, you will pick up 20 stitches. These guidelines work for most people, but not all. Your work must lie flat, and sometimes you will have to experiment to judge how to proceed. If your edges are rippling, like a ruffle, you are picking up too many stitches; if they are pulling in, you are picking up too few stitches. The best way to get an even edge is to divide the length to be worked into 4 parts. When the first section is done and lies flat, repeat that number of stitches for each of the following 3 sections. Work in every stitch of the top and bottom edges. Always work 3 stitches in each corner to make the project lie flat. 1

126 plus size crochet

2

lining a crocheted bag Use an interlining of fleece or felt to cushion and support the inside, then cover it with a silky lining. 1. Trace the outer edges of the main bag pieces onto paper. Use this as a pattern to cut an interlining and a lining for each piece. Trim ½" (1.3 cm) from the edges of the interlining. 2. Center the interlining over the wrong side of the bag piece. Thread a sewing needle with all-purpose thread in a color to match the bag. Catch the interlining in place with a few stitches around the outer edge. 3. Center the lining, right side up, over the interlining. Turn under the edge all around so that it just covers the interlining. Pin the lining in place. 4. Stitch the lining to the bag, enclosing the interlining. 5. Complete steps 1 through 4 for each bag piece. Then finish the bag, following the project instructions.

crochet stitches 127

abbreviations

approx

approximately

patt

pattern(s)

beg

begin/beginning

pc

popcorn

bet

between

pm

place marker

BL

back loop(s)

prev

previous

BP

back post

rem

remain/remaining

BPdc

back post double crochet

rep

repeat(s)

CC

contrasting color

rev sc

reverse single crochet

ch

chain(s)

rnd(s)

round(s)

ch-

refers to chain or space previously made, e.g., ch-1 space

RS

right side(s)

sc

single crochet

sc2tog

single crochet 2 stitches together

sk

skip

Sl st

slip stitch

sp(s)

space(s)

st(s)

stitch(es)

tbl

through back loop(s)

tch

turning chain

tfl

through front loop(s)

tog

together

tr

triple crochet

tr2tog

triple crochet 2 stitches together

trtr

triple treble crochet

WS

wrong side(s)

yd

yard(s)

yo

yarn over

yoh

yarn over hook

[]

Work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

*

Repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed

**

Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions

ch lp

chain loop

ch-sp

chain space

CL

cluster(s)

cm

centimeter(s)

cont

continue

dc

double crochet

dc2tog

double crochet 2 stitches together

dec

decrease/decreases/decreasing

FL

front loop(s)

foll

follow/follows/following

FP

front post

FPdc

front post double crochet

FPtr

front post triple crochet

g

gram(s)

hdc

half double crochet

inc

increase/increases/increasing

lp(s)

loop(s)

m

meter(s)

MC

main color

mm

millimeter(s)

oz

ounce(s)

p

picot

128 plus size crochet

At last—crochet patterns for plus-size women! Stylish fashions that are comfortable and flattering Easy stitch patterns with subtle shaping and interesting details Lots of choices, such as ardigans, pullovers, shells, tunics, and accessories Designer tips for crocheting clothes with a custom fit

FEATURES THAT MAKE IT EASY: • Detail close-ups of every project • All stitches have step-by-step instructions with photos • Project specs at a glance • Spiral binding so the book stays open

OTHER BOOKS BY MARGARET HUBERT: Hooked Bags Hooked Hats Hooked Scarves

Hooked Throws Hooked for Toddlers

ISBN – 13: 978-1-58923-339-3 ISBN – 10: 1-58923-339-5

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