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ACCOMPANIED WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SCENERY, AND OF THE
OF THE INHABITANTS OF THOSE CITIES AND THEIR ENVIRONS.
COSTUMES, MANNERS,
By
&c.
E. E.
VI DAL,
Esq.
LONDON PUBLISHED BY
R.
HUNTED BY
ACKERMANN, I.
101,
STRAND.
HARRISON, 373, STRAND. I
M.DCCC.XX.
f
Wk
PREFACE.
The
important events of which the Spanish colonies in South
America have of
late
years been the theatre, and the successful
struggle for independence
which they are
still
maintaining against
the mother country, have powerfully attracted the attention of
the whole civilized world.
Ay res
as the capital
The
political
consequence of Buenos
and centre of one of the newly established
importance in a commercial point of view, would
republics,
and
render
an object of peculiar interest to the
it
its
nation in the world, even without
its
first
mercantile
attempted reduction during
the late war by the British arms.
Leaving, however, those more abstruse topics to the professed historian
and
political
economist, the author of this work contented
himself with sketching, originally without any view to publication,
some of the
characteristic features
presented by the
Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, and such habits, manners,
and customs of the people
will,
of
peculiarities in the as
most striking during a residence of three years
These delineations
cities
appeared to him in the country.
he presumes, prove the more acceptable
PREFACE.
iv
to the curious,
inasmuch
as,
to his knowledge,
tration of those places has hitherto
The
descriptive part,
no graphic
illus-
been submitted to the public.
unwarped by
political bias,
is
the simple
result of personal observation, with the addition of a
derived from writers of acknowledged authority.
few data
For the benefit
of the reader not conversant with the history of the colonies, a brief introductory sketch states such particulars of their settlement
and subsequent fortunes in
any other shape.
as could not
be conveniently introduced
INTRODUCTION.
The
Spanish possessions in South America were formerly under the sole
government of the viceroy of Peru; but some of those provinces being upwards of two thousand miles distant from Lima, his residence, sustained great incon-
venience on that account; for neither could justice be distributed, nor protection afforded to their inhabitants. ties
were at
To remedy
different times created; the last of
this evil, three other viceroyal-
them
in
1778 at Buenos Ayres,
comprehending the provinces of Buenos A)^res or Rio de
Tucuman, Las Charcas
or Potosi,
la Plata,
and Chiquito or Cuyo.
extended in a direct line from Cape Lobos, which
may
Paraguay,
This viceroyalty
be considered as
its
southern limit, to the northernmost settlements on the Paraguaj^, upwards of sixteen hundred miles; and from the Cordilleras, which separate all
Cape it
St.
from
Anthony,
at the
Chili, nearly
mouth of the
one thousand.
It
Plata, to
embraces
the varieties of climate to be found in twenty-six degrees of latitude; being
bounded on the north by the country of the independent Indians of the
Amazons and tagonia,
The
its
vicinity;
and on the
east
river of
on the west by Peru and Chili; on the south by Pa-
by Brasil and the Atlantic ocean.
province of Rio de la Plata, in which Buenos Ayres
is
situated, lies
on
both sides of the estuary of the same name, in which the mingled streams of the Parana, the Paraguay, the Uraguay,
and other
a mass of fresh water not to be paralleled b
less
in the rest
considerable rivers, form
of the globe for width and
INTRODUCTION.
vi
Of
magnificence.
the circumstances that led to the
country; to the foundation of its capital, which
is
colonization of this
first
more
particularly the subject
of the succeeding sheets; and to the recent revolution which has torn the Spanish sceptre, a brief historical notice will not be
it
from
deemed an inappro-
priate introduction.
considerable portion of the continent of South America was ex-
Though a
by Americus Vesputius, who, more fortunate than Columbus,
plored in 1501
the original discoverer, enjoyed the honour of giving his
western hemisphere; yet tries
bordering upon
it
would appear, that the Rio de
were not
it
visited
In 1515 the court of Spain gave the
by Europeans
command
name
la Plata
whole
to the
and the coun-
several years later.
till
of an expedition destined to
prosecute discoveries in this quarter to Juan Dias de Solis, grand pilot of Castile,
who
sailed
one of sixty soldiers
from Spain
tons,
month of September with
and the two others of
and provisions
he entered a
in the
river, to
for
He
thirty each.
two years and a
On
half.
which he gave the name of Rio Genero, the present Rio
Thence ranging along the
mouth of an immense
which he
river,
perceiving on the north to land,
the whole party others
who
and
situated
is
lost its
fell
lay in
to the
la Plata.
He
entered
Solis,
it,
he went on shore, accompanied by a few of his men.
and to
Here
a sacrifice to the treachery of the Indians, reinforced by
ambush very near a stream
that
still
between Monte Video and Maldonado.
made
he came
bank a number of Charrua Indians, who seemed
commander, immediately returned
discovery was
coast,
own name, Rio de
called after his
an appellation subsequently changed to Rio de
him
took on board sixty
the 1st of Januarj^, 1516,
Janeiro of the Portuguese.
invite
three small vessels,
for
some
years.
to Spain,
bears the
The
name of
Solis,
expedition having
and no farther attempt
at
INTRODUCTION. Meanwhile the in
vii
reports of the prodigious wealth discovered
Peru induced the Portuguese governor of
Brasil,
plan an expedition overland, with a view to share,
For the execution of
tune.
and
fidelity
he could
rely.
it
Don
by the Spaniards
Martin de Sosa,
if possible,
their
good
to
for-
he selected Alexis de Garcia, on whose courage
Taking with him
his son,
who was very young, and
three Portuguese only, Garcia reached the Paraguay, where he found a great
number of him.
Indians,
and prevailed upon a large body of them
to
accompanjr
Penetrating to the frontiers of Peru, he collected some gold and a con-
siderable quantity of silver, with
which he returned
been joined by the Indians, and which he thought an tlement.
Dispatching two of
account of the success of
his
his
companions
to the
to the spot
where he had
eligible situation for a set-
governor of Brasil with an
journey and of the plan he had formed, he
mained himself among the Indians, with
his
re-
No
son and the other Portuguese.
sooner had his messengers departed, than Garcia was attacked by the Indians,
who murdered him and treasure.
On
his
companion, made
his
son a slave, and seized
all his
the receipt of his dispatches, sixty Portuguese and a large party
of Brasilians were sent for the purpose of joining him; but they were so harassed in their progress
mander and
by the Indians, that they turned back,
several
men, and
in crossing the
after losing their
Parana, almost
all
the rest of
comthem
were drowned.
Discouraged by these untoward events, neither the Spaniards nor the Portuguese
made any
farther attempt at conquest or colonization in these parts,
they were visited by Sebastian Gaboto or Cabot.
till
This navigator, who, before
the conclusion of the fifteenth centu^, had discovered Newfoundland and part
of North America for England, conceiving himself neglected in that country,
had entered
into the service of Spain;
and b 2
after the return
of Magellan from the
INTRODUCTION.
via
first
squadron of four
He of
command
circumnavigation of the globe, he was appointed to the
with orders to pursue the same track to the East Indies.
ships,
sailed accordingly in April 1526,
St.
Catherine.
Spaniards,
At
who had
and
the largest of his ships at the island
lost
the port of Patos, on the coast of Brasil, he found two
commanded by
deserted from the force
vicinity of that place fifteen
more Spanish
deserters,
Rodrigues d'Acunha, destined for the East Indies.
Gaboto
that there
was abundance of gold and
resolved therefore to intention,
of a
sail
up that
in the
from the troops under
Don
men informed
All these
on the Rio de
but as some of his
river,
and strongly censured him
silver
and
Solis,
He
la Plata.
officers
opposed
this
for relinquishing the original object of the
expedition, he put three of the most refractory on shore in the island of St.
Catherine, entered the Plata, and anchored at the St. John's, opposite to
Buenos Ayres.
At
mouth of a
this place
rivulet,
left
which he deposited
in
vessels entered the river
the rest, escaping in the boat, or by
the
to seek
a better
Uraguay, but was driven on shore the third day by a
captain and some of his
Gaboto himself
who remained
In compliance with this command, one of the larger
in the vicinity.
The
escaped;
a hut surrounded with palisades; and
departed with the boats, giving orders to those
tempest.
who had
the two largest vessels, with thirty seamen and twelve soldiers,
to defend the effects
harbour
called
he was joined by Francisco
Puerto, the only one of the party that had landed with Solis
Here Gaboto
now
sailed
men were
swimming
killed
by the Indians; while
to shore, returned to St. John's*
up the southernmost branch of the
mouth of the Sarcarana, where he
called Tort Espiritu Santo, leaving in
built it
a
brig,
river Parana, to
and erected a
a garrison of sixty men.
fort,
He
which he ascended
the Parana to the shoals, in the latitude of 27 deg. 27 min. and then returned
and entered the Paraguay, to seek certain Indians who were said
to possess
INTRODUCTION. abundance of gold and he sent the brig up
it
On
silver.
arriving at the
with thirty men.
ix
mouth of
the river Bermejo,
They met with some
who
Indians,
in-
formed the Spaniards that they had plenty of the precious metals in their houses,
which were not
Deceived by
other articles.
who
Indians,
and that they would willingly exchange them
far distant,
this story, fifteen of the
surprised and massacred
them
all.
Spaniards accompanied the
Gaboto soon returned
blow, by attacking the Indians, killing a considerable
making a the
large booty in gold and silver.
It
is
same who had murdered Garcia, and that
brought by him from Peru. considered
all
number of them, and
supposed that these Indians were
was what had been
their treasure
Gaboto, however, ignorant of
this circumstance,
in this idea,
when some
other Indians,
who had
entered into
an alliance with him, not only supplied him with provisions, but bartered Spanish commodities of
name
of Rio de la Plata, a
of gold,
On
this
the precious metals as the produce of mines in the neighbourhood;
and was confirmed
for
for
silver,
trifling value.
name which
He
it still
therefore gave to this river the
retains,
though not the
or any other metal, has ever been found in
his return to
silver
its
least trace
vicinity.
Fort Espiritu Santo, he dispatched Fernand Calderon to
acquaint the Emperor and King of Spain, Charles V. with his discoveries and operations, lected.
and
to present to his majesty the gold
The emperor was
and
perfectly satisfied with the
silver
which he had
col-
conduct of Gaboto, and
ordered him to proceed with the conquest of the country, ^promising at the same
time to send him the reinforcements which he solicited. public exchequer was exhausted,
As, however, the
and incapable of defraying the attendant
expense, a commission to prosecute this conquest was given to
Mendoza, a very opulent inhabitant of Cadiz, who his
own
cost.
Don Pedro
offered to undertake
Meanwhile Gaboto, having waited two years
it
de at
in vain for the
INTRODUCTION.
x expected succours,
command
of
left
Nuno de
men
one hundred and ten
at Espiritu Santo,
under the
Lara, and embarked for Spain, where he arrived in 1530.
whom
Lara, finding himself surrounded by nations
he was too weak to
overawe, endeavoured to cultivate a good understanding with the Timboos, one of the nearest and most powerful tribes.
His success
M angora,
soon involved him in unexpected destruction.
Timboos,
in the course of the frequent visits
in this attempt,
which he paid
however,
the cacique of the to the fort,
became
enamoured of Lucia Miranda, wife of Sebastian Hurtado, one of the principal Spanish
officers.
It
was not long before
this
lady discovered his passion, and
whom
knowing what she had
to
vernor's interest to be
on friendly terms, she used every possible precaution
apprehend from a savage, with
was the go-
it
to
avoid being seen by Mangora, and to guard against any violence or surprise.
The
chief,
Hurtado
on
his part, devising
to pa)'
whom she
him a
visit,
how
and
to get her into his power, frequently pressed
to bring
Miranda with him.
had communicated her suspicions and her
to circumstances, declined
fears,
Her husband,
with a policy adapted
Mangora's invitation, alleging that a Spaniard could
not quit his post without the permission of his superior, nor could he permission except to fight and conquer his foes.
by
this evasion,
to
solicit that
The cacique was not duped
but soon perceived that the removal of Hurtado was absolutely
necessary for the accomplishment of his purpose. It
soon happened that Hurtado was detached with another
Mosquera, and
fifty soldiers, to
able opportunity, since to
which the wife had
chosen
men
in
it
Ruy Garcia
procure provisions. Considering this as a favour-
not only removed the husband, but weakened the force
to look for protection,
Mangora posted
an adjacent morass, and repaired to the
carrying refreshments.
officer,
On
his arrival,
he sent word
fort
four thousand
with thirty others
to Lara, that learning
how
INTRODUCTION. much he was serve
him
till
xi
had brought a supply
distressed for provisions, he
the return of the detachment.
sufficient to
The governor welcomed
the trea-
cherous chieftain with the strongest demonstrations of friendship, and insisted
upon entertaining him and
his attendants.
Mangora, calculating upon such
a reception, had given directions accordingly to his concerted signals with those lasted
who were
fort.
The Spanish
officers,
rest,
and then
fire,
slaughter.
The
fort,
magazines
were mostly
rest killed in their sleep.
posted in the morass were admitted into the
became a scene of confusion and
set fire to the
roused by the alarm of
patched as they rose from bed, and the
men
and
The entertainment
posted in the morass.
the Spaniards sufficient time to retire to
the
to behave,
the night was far advanced; after breaking up, the Indians allowed
till
of the
men how
dis-
Meanwhile
which immediately
governor, however, enjoyed
the satisfaction of revenging himself on the perfidious chief; for though severely
wounded, yet espying Mangora, he rushed upon him, and ran him through the body, but was immediately overpowered and slain by the Indians.
Of
all
the Spanish inhabitants of the
fort,
none was spared but Miranda,
the innocent cause of the fatal catastrophe, four other
women, and the same
bound and
led before Syripo, the
number of young
children.
These were
all
brother and successor of the late cacique.
Syripo, at the sight of Miranda's
beauty, conceived as strong a passion for her as that which had proved fatal to
Mangora.
He ordered
to his attendants.
He
her to be unbound, and relinquished the other prisoners
then told her not to consider herself as a captive, and
solicited her favour with a gentleness that love alone
bosom of a
savage.
one a fugitive in the erful nation.
He
could have infused into the
contrasted her husband's situation and his
forests of a hostile
own
—the
country; the other the chief of a pow-
Miranda's virtue, however, was proof both against persuasions
INTRODUCTION.
xii
and
fear; she rejected Syripo's offers
with scorn, and with a degree of acrimony
that was intended to exasperate and impel
by which she hoped contrary
effect,
He
quest.
to order her
to strengthen the passion of the cacique,
his esteem, or
treated her with
immediate death,
Her behaviour had a
to escape the horrors of violation.
and only tended
commanding
either
him
more
enhancing the value of lenity, indulgence,
have been expected from a savage unaccustomed
by
his anticipated con-
and regard, than could
to controul his
own inclinations,
or to respect female chastity.
Meanwhile Hurtado, on
his return
with the convoy of provisions, was as-
tonished to find nothing but a heap of ruins where the fort had stood.
He soon
learned that his faithful wife was detained in captivity by the chief of the boos,
and with a temerity prompted by conjugal
hastened to the place of her abode. arrival,
and enraged
hatred of the
well as actuated
as
bound
to a tree,
power of beauty
by
inveterate
exclusively possessed the heart of Miranda, and was,
in his opinion, the sole obstacle to his happiness,
seized,
he immediately
Syripo was soon apprised of Hurtado's
at his presumption,
man who
affection,
Tim-
and pierced
prevailed,
he ordered him
to death with arrows.
and the earnest
entreaties of
the savage the remission of the sentence pronounced
was unbound, but detained
as a captive.
to
be instantly
Once more
Miranda won from
upon her husband.
Tormented with
the
He
conflicting passions,
Syripo sometimes seemed determined to sacrifice Hurtado to his jealous fury;
but at others the desire of ingratiating himself with Miranda so far overcame his hatred, that
Hurtado was permitted
to see his wife.
Their mutual
visits
gradually became more frequent and unrestrained; but one fatal prohibition
embittered their happiness.
The cacique warned them
jealousy by indulging in conjugal endearments.
against inflaming his
Vain, however, was the voice
INTRODUCTION. of prudence, and vain were
the resolutions which they formed to abstain
all
Restraint served only to strengthen desire, and
from the interdicted enjoyment.
one
fatal
moment plunged them
them
prised
Syripo sur-
into the threatened destruction.
in each other's embraces,
defiance of his authority, he ordered
which he had before
the punishment
xiii
and
with ungovernable rage at this
fired
them both
to instant death;
so narrowly escaped,
Hurtado
and Miranda
to
to the
flames.
Mosquera,
who was
the
left in
command
repaired the ruined fort; but finding that
of the few remaining Spaniards,
was
it
to
no purpose to remain
there,
on account of the irreconcileable animosity which prevailed between the Spaniards
and the Indians, he abandoned the
and embarked with the remnant
place,
of his garrison in a small vessel that Gaboto had to the coast of Brasil,
left
and afterwards removed
He first proceeded
behind.
to the island of St. Catherine,
where he formed a settlement; from which, however, he was soon expelled by the Portuguese.
During these
transactions, the court of Spain
and preparations were
set
on foot
surpassing any that had been parts of America.
for a settlement
made
Don Pedro
had not
lost sight
on the Rio de
for the establishment
oC Paraguay,
la Plata, greatly
of colonies in other
de Mendoza was appointed commander-in-chief
of the expedition, and governor-general of
all
the countries that might be dis-
covered as far as the South Sea, on condition of his transporting thither, in two
own
voyages, at his
cost,
one thousand men and one hundred horses, with arms,
ammunition, and provisions
for
a year.
He
was authorized
to
form
establish-
ments wherever he thought proper in the lands he might discover; and was at liberty, after
and name
a residence of three years in
his successor,
who
his
left
government, to return to Spain
should be entitled to the same prerogatives as
INTRODUCTION.
xiv
A
himself.
and he was
salary of
two thousand ducats a year
to enjoy a certain portion of all
for life
was
settled
upon him,
such treasures as should
into
fall
his hands.
Don Juan
Orders were issued to equip fourteen vessels at Cadiz, and
an Italian
officer,
who had
was appointed second
in
Osorio,
greatly distinguished himself in the wars in Italy,
command under Mendoza.
These extensive prepara-
and the reports circulated respecting the riches of the countries contiguous
tions,
to the
Rio de
la Plata, attracted so
many
persons, even from
armament comprehended,
nobility of Spain, that the first
among
instead of five hun-
dred as originally proposed, twelve hundred men, including
and Germans.
No
many
especially in the capital of that province.
The
its
was dispersed by a severe storm. Gabriel; while the
many Flemings
Spanish colony, indeed, can boast of such illustrious names
founders; and the posterity of
among
the ancient
rest,
Some
of them
still
exist in
fleet sailed in
Paraguay,
August 1534, but
of the ships reached the islands of St.
with the commander-in-chief, were obliged to take
was
refuge in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro.
Here Osorio was
strongly suspected, at the instigation of
Mendoza, whose conduct excited so
assassinated, as
it
much
dissatisfaction, that
when
the commander, being apprized of their intention, immediately put to
sea,
many
of his followers were preparing to leave him,
and rejoined the other part of the
fleet at
the islands of St. Gabriel, since
called Colonia del Sacramento,
From
this station,
Don Pedro
sent an officer to the opposite
bank
to seek a
convenient spot for the projected settlement, and followed himself with the
whole
fleet.
The
site
of the present city of Buenos Ayres was fixed upon; here
Mendoza immediately ordered
the plan of a
town
to be traced out; the
was begun on the 2d of February, 1535, every man, without
work
distinction, lending
;
INTRODUCTION. his assistance,
ginning was
and
made
in a short time they all
had convenient
to surround the place with walls,
and Pampa Indians brought
provisions,
Don
A
habitations. at first the
be-
Guarani
to the Spaniards.
In
number who were employed
in
and attacked the town, with the intention of destroying the new
Don
In order to chastise them,
erections.
and
which they sold
the sequel, however, they killed ten of their cutting wood,
xv
Pedro sent against them
his brother,
Diego, with twelve captains on horseback, and one hundred and thirty
The second day
after their departure
foot.
they reached the valley of Escobar, where
they perceived a body of three thousand Indians advantageously posted behind
a
little
The Spaniards
and a marsh.
river
scarcely proceeded a few paces,
mud, from which balls, darts,
foot.
A
it
was impossible
and arrows,
great
when
sunk up to their
their horses
had
also perished
on
some time prevailed
for
bellies in
The enemy, with
to extricate them.
killed ten horsemen, including
number of Indians
A scarcity which
attacked them; but they had
Don
their
Diego, and twenty
this occasion.
at
Buenos Ayres became
at
length a dreadful famine, which occasioned the death of about two hundred of the
settlers.
The
Indians also waylaid and destroyed
all
who
Hence a
of appeasing their hunger in the adjacent country.
sought the means prohibition,
under
the penalty of death, was issued against any excursion beyond the limits of the garrison,
and guards were posted
Here another romantic but
as,
notwithstanding
tale is its
at all the outlets to enforce
interwoven with the early history of
improbability,
it
it
its
ought to excite no
this
colony
introduction here.
surprise, if persons,
religion enjoined the belief of the grossest legendary absurdities,
c 2
observance.
has received the sanction of the most
authentic writers, no apology will be necessarjr for
remarked by the way, that
its
Be
it
whose
were capable
INTRODUCTION.
XVI
of a greater stretch of credulity in regard to the
affairs
woman, named Maldonata, having eluded the
and wandered
for
some time about the country,
who soon
visitor,
assistance,
repaid
grateful
as follows:
at length entered a cavern,
The
animal, however,
perceived that she was on the
approached the
was soon delivered of her burden.
by the
is
The
lioness,
which, with her
benefit thus conferred was.
which divided the abundant supplies of food
beast,
The
obtained in her daily excursions, between her whelps and Maldonata. latter for
continued to reside in the cavern
themselves
;
when they
attracted to the spot to quit this
whom
Ruiz Galan commanded up the
was of a
Maldonata, therefore, was obliged,
affection.
asylum; and again rambling through the woods and
by the Spaniards, she was
dition
the cubs were capable of providing
till
disappeared, as did also the lioness, no longer
by maternal
with some Indians, by
she was
made
river in quest of
and
some as
a slave.
beasts, or to perish
at length retaken
Don
Francisco
relief for the starving inhabitants.
Galan
Maldonata had violated the prohibition issued
but the most ferocious tyrant could decree.
bound naked
deserts, fell in
Mendoza, who was gone on an expe-
against straggling, he adjudged her to suffer death,
the country, to be
Being
Buenos Ayres, where
carried back to
in the absence of
cruel disposition;
than
Maldonata, with a courage propor-.
point of littering, and in great agony.
tioned to her desperate situation,
story
life,
vigilance of the guards,
where, to her no small dismay, she found a lioness.
attempted no outrage upon her
common
The
appears to us consistent with sound and sober reason.
A
of
to a tree,
with hunger.
Two
He
and such a death
as
none
ordered her to be taken into
and there
left
to be
devoured by wild
days afterwards, the party
who had
this
barbarous order being sent to see what had become of her, found
her, to their
extreme astonishment, alive and unhurt, though surrounded by
executed
INTRODUCTION.
xvii
wild beasts, which were deterred from attacking her by a lioness that lay at her It
feet.
was the same with which she had so long resided
related her story to the soldiers,
Ayres.
The wonderful
preservation of
Heaven had he attempted
A short time after this
event,
Juan de Ayolas,
whom
and
with the Indians, erected a
Mendoza being dangerously
ill,
embarked
under the
to wait six
months
Don
of Buenos Ayres, and appointing
his suc-
which happened during after several battles
which formed the commencement of the
command
of
city
for his return,
Domingo Martinez de Yrala, whom he ordered he proceeded to the north-west, into the
of the country, with two hundred Spaniards.
In the
mean
inte-
Ayolas penetrated into Peru,
but on his return was surprised by the Payagua Indians, and cut off with followers.
for
Here he placed a garrison of one hundred men, and leaving
his vessels
rior
considered as opposing the
his heir in case of his death,
fort,
Buenos
Maldonata on these two occasions pro-
Ayolas meanwhile ascended the Parana, and,
of Assumption.
to
he had sent up the river to explore the country,
cessor in the government,
the voyage.
and took her back
to enforce his cruel sentence.
command
Spain, leaving Galan in the
released
who would have been
cured her pardon from Galan, will of
who
She
in the cavern.
all his
time, a confirmation of his appointment as governor-
general had arrived from the emperor, with directions that, in case of his death,
the original Spaniards, or the conquerors of Paraguay as they were termed,
should elect his successor.
Accordingly, on receiving intelligence of the unfor-
tunate fate of Ayolas and his expedition, they chose Yrala to the vacant
Buenos Ayres was
in the interim daily losing
its
inhabitants
office.
by famine.
Part of them were in consequence removed to Assumption, and a proposal was
made
for its total
abandonment.
new governor, and
at length
This proposal was strongly supported by the
determined upon.
Yrala
is
conjectured to have
INTRODUCTION.
xviii
been influenced in since,
this affair
on the suppression of
by the
desire of rendering himself independent:
establishment at the
this
mouth of
from the court of Spain could not reach him without
the river, orders
much
and
difficulty
delay; whilst he, being at so great a distance up the country, might easily find
means of eluding them, should they prove as
it
Among
tion.
Assump-
crew of a Genoese
vessel,
which, having put
la Plata
exist
still
with a valuable cargo, had been wrecked on a sand-
On
the arrival of the whole at Assumption,
out of three thousand
hundred were
six
inhabitants were transferred to posterity
Rio de
that,
Buenos Ayres was
;
whose
bank near Buenos Ayres. found
effect
these were several Italian gentlemen,
in Paraguay, together with the into the
its
Be this
any respect disagreeable.
may, the resolution was immediately carried into
completely evacuated in 1539, and
than
in
men who had come from
it
was
more
Spain, not
left.
Upwards of forty years the spot on which Buenos Ayres had stood remained uninhabited. to the
At
want of a
length, the frequent loss of ships safe
fully sensible of the
harbour on the Rio de
coming from Europe, owing
la Plata,
rendered the Spaniards
policy of the re-establishment of Buenos Ayres.
This
measure was therefore determined on, and carried into execution in 1580 by
Don Juan town.
Garay,
who
settled sixty Spaniards
The neighbouring
Garay succeeded
Indians at
first
flourish
;
for
though
its
some other
pretext,
it
The
city
it
gradually emerged.
as if
;
but
remained for a long Its
commerce
port was not opened to strangers, yet
foreign vessels from time to time put into
or upon
ruins of the former
annoyed the place exceedingly
in quelling their opposition.
time in a state of poverty, from which
began to
upon the very
compelled by
stress
many
of weather,
were favourably received, and carried on a
traffic
equally profitable to themselves and the inhabitants, who, by the year 1700,
had increased
to sixteen thousand.
INTRODUCTION.
xix
In 1740, an accession of population and prosperity accrued to this
settle-
ment, from the disasters that befel a considerable Spanish squadron which had
been dispatched for the purpose of repelling the attacks of the British under
Commodore Anson.
Unable, however, to double Cape Horn, and buffeted by
tempests, most of the ships composing
Plata in a shattered and disabled
The
dition to return to Spain.
state,
it
were obliged
to seek refuge in the
only one of the number being in a con-
troops and crews of this squadron settled in the
country, having no opportunity of leaving
it,
on account of the interrupted and
precarious intercourse at that time existing between Spain and her colonies.
The
separation of the provinces of Buenos Ayres, Paraguay,
Tucuman, Los
Charcas, and Cuyo, from the viceroyalty of Peru in 1778, and their erection into a separate viceroyalty, of
which Buenos Ayres was made the
a fresh spring to the prosperity of the. country, which the regulations adopted at the
The
earliest traders to
same time contributed not a
little
capital,
gave
new commercial
to promote.
America seeking nothing but gold and
silver, set
value on countries not producing those metals: apprehensive, however,
no lest
commodities might be introduced into Peru by way of Buenos Ayres, and that this
might prejudice the
sent to
Panama, they
solicited
bition of every kind of
most affected by were permitted
and on
their
this
sale of the cargoes of the fleets
and obtained from the government the prohi-
commerce by the Rio de
two
they
account, a certain quantity of flour, tallow, and jerked beefi
permission had expired, an indefinite prolongation of all
in 1602,
vessels belonging to themselves,
but to no other ports than those of Brasil and Guinea.
extension to
Those who were
la Plata.
measure made strong remonstrances, and
to export for six years in
own
and galleons which they
When it
was
the term of this
solicited,
kinds of merchandise, and to the Spanish ports.
with an
This applica-
INTRODUCTION.
xx tion less,
was vehemently opposed by the consulates of Lima and in
1618,
authorized to
Rio de
the inhabitants of the shores of the
fit
Seville: neverthela
Plata were
out two vessels, not exceeding one hundred tons burden each.
Several other conditions were imposed on them, and to prevent any
Cordoba
the interior of Peru, a custom-house was established at
where a duty of
fifty
per cent, was exacted from
all
to
Buenos Ayres, even
When
in
payment
for the
silver
mules furnished by the
the term of this permission had expired,
nite period
del
it
was prolonged
by an order of 1622; and with a view
to
with
Tucuman,
This custom-
imports.
house was also designed to prevent the transmission of gold and
traffic
from Peru
latter place.
for
an indefi-
promote the prosperity
of this country, a royal audience was established in 1665 at Buenos Ayres, but
Such was the general
again abolished as useless in 1672.
state of things,
though
individuals from time to time received licences to ship off cargoes of goods, till
1778,
when
the Rio de la Plata
and even with the
was thrown open
to traffic of every kind,,
interior of Peru.
Previously to that date, no more than twelve or fifteen registered vessels
were engaged
in the colonial trade of all
seldom performed more than one voyage vessels
Spanish South America, and these
in three years.
In 1796, sixty-three
from Old Spain alone arrived in the single port of Buenos Ayres, with
cargoes valued at nearly three millions of piasters; and fifty-one sailed from for the
Africa.
mother country, fourteen to the Havannah, and eleven to the coast of
The value
of the exports was about five millions and a half of piasters,
including upwards of four millions in gold and
In the succeeding years, the \l
it
produced a material change
hostilities
silver.
between Great Britain and Spain
in the state of this colony;
and such was the con-
sequent stagnation of trade, that the warehouses of Buenos Ayres and
Monte
INTRODUCTION. Video were
filled
European goods rate.
with hides and other native productions; while
of
many
kinds of
rose to exorbitant prices, or were not to be procured at
The people
this situation
xxi
any
of the United States of America wisely availed themselves of
and by means of a contraband
affairs,
traffic,
carried
on with
the connivance of the Spanish government, they continued to supply the inhabitants of these provinces with
productions in return,
till
European commodities, and
the fortune of
to take the native
war placed Buenos Ay res
for
a short
time in the hands of the British.
The
circumstances attending the capture of the city of Buenos Ayres, in
June 1806, by an expedition equipped
command well
of Sir
known
to
viceroy, the
Home Popham
it
Cape of Good Hope, under the
and General (now Lord) Beresford, are too
need recapitulation.
l*he inactivity
Marquis de Sobre Monte, on
by Dean Funes, the justice; for
at the
historian of
this occasion, are severely
by
birth,
does not appear that he
made any attempt
This
This honour was reserved for
who had commanded one
officer, in
Don
it
to defend this import-
from the possession of the
Santiago Liniers, a Frenchman
of the Spanish ships of war on this station.
the absence of the viceroy,
hundred and sixty leagues distant from the all
censured
Buenos Ayres, and apparently with great
ant city against the small British force, or to wrest conquerors.
and incapacity of the then
who had capital,
retired to
Cordoba, one
put himself at the head of
the troops he could muster on both banks of the Plata, and on the 12th of
August attacked the general
was obliged
city
on
different points with
to surrender himself
This fortunate result occasioned the
first
and
all
such success, that the British his troops as prisoners
step to that revolution
of war.
which has since
separated these provinces from the mother country ; for the people of Buenos Ayres, indignant at the conduct of their viceroy, insisted on investing their
d
INTRODUCTION.
xxn the supreme
deliverer with
civil
and military authority, with the
of
title
captain-general.
The
British
government, unwilling to relinquish the important commercial
advantages which the possession of the banks of the Plata seemed to promise,
was meanwhile engaged
in preparing
an armament
for their effectual reduction.
In February 1807, Monte Video was taken by a British force under Sir
Samuel Auchmuty; and General Whitelocke, who arrived still
more considerable army, thought himself strong enough
the capital. fested
The
by the
cool determined valour
of.
in the Plata with
a
to attempt to regain
the troops, and the energy mani-
leaders of the several columns, in the
memorable attack of the
5th of July, were, however, thwarted by the imbecility, or something worse, of the commander-in-chief, which involved the failure of the enterprise, and led to the ignominious capitulation
the Rio de la Plata, including
The unprincipled royal family,
Ayres
till
whole of
invasion of Spain by the French, and the captivity of the this event,
were not known at Buenos
towards the end of July 1808, when an emissary from Buonaparte his version
assembled the principal this
to evacuate the
Monte Video.
which very soon followed
conveyed to Liniers
by
by which he agreed
of the transactions in the Peninsula.
civil officers,
and
in their presence the letters
An
messenger were opened and read.
excited in the minds of
" sible," says
F lines,
all
who composed
Liniers
brought
extraordinary sensation was
the meeting.
" It
would be impos-
" to communicate a just idea of the indignation produced
" in Liniers by a proceeding which tended to " most execrable villany, without citing his
make him an accomplice
own
expressions.
in the
Whilst reading
" these letters, he interrupted the narration with this apostrophe: 'Vile "
'
infamous
man
!'
alluding to Buonaparte,
'
and
accustomed to be surrounded by
INTRODUCTION.
xxiii
"
'
flatterers,
"
'
bat mercenary troops, and an energetic people raised to the highest pitch of
"
'
indignation and patriotism.
"
*
acquiredst thy glory
"
'
thee in order to put an end to anarchy, will be the
"
*
overwhelmed with shame
"
'
sovereigns prostituted and so long occupied by a foreigner, whose immoralitv
"
'
and baseness are
the Spaniards will teach thee, that
as
general should publicly
low
to
and who have submitted first
to forsake thee,
was agreed that the captain-
It
passing in the mother country.
re-embark immediately, and Ferdinand VII.
was not long before the rank and popularity of Liniers began
the people of the east
and
to
form a
bank
to
Monte Video, who found means
and
distinct junta, in imitation of those of Spain.
Don
to excite
to persuade
renounce their dependence on the captain-gene-
tations also filled the central junta in Liniers,
to
rejoicings.
the envy of Elio, then governor of
ral,
'
make known what was
was proclaimed with great It
just,
having beheld the throne of their legitimate
as his birth.'
The French emissary was ordered
not the same thing to com-
The genuine Frenchmen by whom thou
when thy wars were
at
it is
His represen-
Europe with suspicions of the
fidelity of
Baltazar Hidalgo de Cisneros was appointed to supersede
him.
The
disastrous events
which soon afterwards followed each other
succession in the mother country, seemed to forebode nothing less than plete subjugation
by France.
The
central junta
members had vested
power
was dispersed and
in rapid its
com-
dissolved,
after
some of
who
addressed a proclamation to the Americans, frankly acknowledging the
its
their
in a regency of five persons,
oppressions to which they had hitherto been subject, absolving farther
them from any
dependence on the Spanish government, and committing their future
destiny to their
own
hands.
These circumstances induced most of the American
d 2
INTRODUCTION.
xxiv
At Buenos
provinces to establish independent governments for themselves.
Ayres, Cisneros informed the inhabitants of these events, at the same time
avowing the uncertainty he
The cabildo,
rity.
felt
own
respecting the maintenance of his
availing itself of this declaration, petitioned
him
autho-
to assemble
a congress, which might decide what steps ought to be taken in such a juncture.
The
viceroy complied with the petition of the cabildo
the congress
;
met on the
22d May, 1810, and decided that a junta should be formed; which was accordingly done on the 25th of the
same month.
The junta was opposed by by
assisted
raised an
by
Cisneros, the
Spanish chiefs in Paraguay, who, being
the
army of two thousand men
his troops,
planned
late viceroy,
for the
its
overthrow.
same purpose, but being deserted
he was taken in the neighbourhood of Cordoba, with several of
the principal opposers of the reA'olution in that quarter, to die,
Liniers also
and executed according^.
Cisneros and the
who were
all
sentenced
members of the audienza,
being discovered to have entered into the plot, were exiled, and embarked for the
Canary
Elio,
Islands.
who had been appointed by
the regency of Spain captain-general of
the provinces of Rio de la Plata, and in that capacity exercised the supreme authority in
the province of
only formidable native of
enemy
Monte Video,
to the junta.
Monte Video, and captain
or
About
Banda
this
Oriental,
time,
Don
was now the
Jose Artigas, a
in the royalist troops, having
some cause
of dissatisfaction with the governor of Colonia, offered his services to the junta of Buenos Ayres in the beginning of the year 1811, and obtained assistance in arms, ammunition, and troops, for the purpose of exciting insurrection on the east
bank of the
South-American
Plata. officer,
The command
of the troops was given to Rondeau, a
who had been made
prisoner
by the English
at
Monte
INTRODUCTION.
xxv
Rondeau
Artigas and
Video, and afterwards served in the war in Spain.
several
May
times defeated the royalists, especially in the battle of Las Piedras, in 1811,
when
the Spanish troops defending
soners, with their
The
commander.
from Buenos Ayres, then
laid
La Banda
made
Oriental were
pri-
conquerors, having received reinforcements
Monte Video.
siege to
Elio, finding himself
incapable of making a long resistance, implored succour from the Portuguese
government
in Brasil,
Notwithstanding their
which sent a force of four thousand men arrival, Elio
of Buenos Ayres, and in latter
should evacuate
retire to their
own
made
November
La Banda
to
Monte Video.
proposals of peace to the government
1811,
it
Oriental,
was agreed that the troops of the and that the Portuguese should
territory.
This treaty was soon broken, and the government of Buenos Ayres deter-
mined again
to besiege
Monte Video, where Elio had been succeeded
command by Don G. Vigodet, who had Europe.
The fortress
held out
till
received a reinforcement of troops from
June 1814, when
it
capitulated, on condition
that the garrison
should be allowed to embark for Spain.
amounting
thousand five hundred, were, in defiance of the
to five
in the
capitulation, distributed through the interior provinces of
The
Rio de
prisoners, articles
la
of
Plata,
Vigodet alone being permitted to embark.
A
change had meanwhile taken place in the form of government.
junta of three, which had greatly retarded public
assembly held on the 31st December, 1813, and of the executive power, director, assisted
ferred
on
Don
it
was vested
in
affairs,
Gervasio Posadas,
succeeded by Colonel Alvear,
who
was abolished by an
in order to strengthen the
one person, with the
by a council of seven members. resigned
it
in
The
title
This high
hands
of supreme
office
was con-
January 1815, when he was
who had commanded
the
army
besieging
Monte
INTRODUCTION.
xxvi
Video
at the time of
as chief of
give
it
up,
its
Of
surrender.
this
Oriental; the government of Buenos Ayres refused, to
La Banda
and he immediately commenced
successes obtained
town, Artigas demanded possession
by one of his
officers,
In consequence of some
hostilities.
Colonel Soler,
who had been appointed
governor of Monte Video, received orders to withdraw with the remnant of his troops from the town, of which Artigas immediately took possession.
now determined marched
to transfer the Avar into
tor dispatched
instead of
which that
officer arrested
which he was allowed
to
embark
in
Alvear, and being supported by the
an English
Another of those changes which are so
The supreme
vincial
constitution
on
frigate.
common
in popular
governments now
who formed
intrusted the legislative power.
a
A new pro-
was published, and Rondeau was nominated supreme
director; but as his military nel Alvarez
it
army
his authority,
authority was vested in the municipality,
junta of observation, to Avhich
direc-
to oppose his progress,
compelled him to resign
capital,
The new
place.
two thousand men under Colonel Alvarez
and the inhabitants of the
ensued.
the province of Buenos Ayres, he
and made himself master of that
to Santa Fe,
Being
was appointed
command required his
his
deputy.
Alvarez convoked a new congress of the
representatives of the province, but before sessed of his authority
presence with the army, Colo-:
it
could assemble he was dispos-
Don Ramon
by a popular commotion.
Balcarce was
then appointed supreme director, but soon removed, and the administration of public affairs placed in the hands of a committee; sovereign congress
inTucuman on
de Pueyrredon,
who
to the office of
supreme
is
till
on the meeting of the
the 26th of March, 1816,
Don Juan
Martin
held in high estimation by his countrymen, was elected director,
which he
still
holds.
On
the 9th July
fol-
lowing, the congress published the following formal declaration of independence:
INTRODUCTION. "
We,
xxvii
Provinces of Rio de la Plata,
the representatives of the United
who
" assembled in a general congress, imploring the Supreme Being " over the universe, calling on heaven, earth, and
men
to witness the justice
we
" of our cause, in the name, and by the authority, of the people " solemnly declare, that
"
all
the
ties
it is
presides
represent,
the unanimous will of the said provinces to break
which united them
to the kings of Spain, to be reinstated in all
" those rights of which they were deprived, and thus to be raised to the rank " of a free and independent nation, capable henceforth of forming for itself such a " government as justice
and circumstances imperiously demand.
We are there-
" fore empowered by the United Provinces at large, and by each one separately, " to declare and engage that they will support this independence. " property, and fame shall be their guarantee. "
whom
our fate
may
interest,
and
Out of
Their
lives,
respect for the nations
feeling the necessity of declaring the weighty
" reasons which impel us thus to act,
we
decree that a manifesto shall be pub-
" lished."
Among
there were several besides himself in
its
Buenos Ayres with Alvear
the persons exiled from
favourite plan for extending
who encouraged
to the
Rio de
In consequence of their representations, an army of ten thousand
sembled
in Brasil,
1815,
the Portuguese government
American dominions
its
in April
la Plata.
men was as-
and under the command of General Lecor invaded La Banda
Oriental on two different sides.
In spite of the opposition of Artigas,
who
proved himself the steady friend of independence by his refusal of the rank of brigadier offered cause,
by the Spanish government
Lecor reached Maldonada
following entered
in
to induce
December
Monte Video, which
is
still
him
to espouse the royal
1816, and on the 20th January
held by the Portuguese, though
they are greatly harassed by the guerrillas of Artigas,
who occupy
all
the sur-
INTRODUCTION.
xxviii
rounding country, and cut off
With
Oriental,
and
Artigas has possession of the whole of
La
which he governs independently; and a good understanding
between him and the congress, whose authority, after a long struggle,
subsists
carried
the supplies of provisions from the interior.
Monte Video,
the exception of
Banda
all
on with various
Chili,
is
vicissitudes against the royalists
now acknowledged by
on the
frontiers
of Peru
the whole of the provinces of Rio de la
Plata.
These provinces, twenty into high
Cruz de Potosi,
and low. la Sierra,
in
number, are divided, according
The former
La
are,
Moxos and
to their situation,
Chiquitos, Apalobamba, Santa
Paz, Cochahamba, Carangas, Misque, Paria, Charcas,
and Atacama; the
latter, Tarija, Salta,
Paraguay, Tucu man, Cordoba,
Cuyo, Entrerios, Monte Video, or Banda Oriental, and Buenos Ayres. total population
thousand
of
this
immense
tract does not
The
exceed one million three hundred
souls.
Since this Introduction was written, Pueyrredon has been dispossessed of the supreme directorship of the United Provinces of
La
Plata; and the chief
authority has several times changed hands in the struggle which has ensued, and
does not appear to be yet terminated.
Ko«a»
o
.
1
. ;
.
& xi
Esq
.
del
SClrfp}
OF
BUENOS AYRES AND MONTE VIDEO
MONTE
VIDEO,
FROM THE ANCHORAGE OUTSIDE THE HARBOUR.
On
the east
Mary,
its
bank of the Rio de
for small vessels;
On
in the rear of hill
Maldonado, the
of
takes
last
feet
water cannot
Monte Video, he
its
name.
is
a
hill
lie
there
of consi-
At the entrance of the
river,
mountains are seen by the navigator, and
on
takes leave of high land; the whole shore
deck in the passage upwards, which
It
Video, on a small pro-
the other side of the bay, opposite to the city, it
St.
northern side, forming a tolerable harbour
its
both sides being afterwards so low, that
may be
Monte
but such as draw more than eleven
derable elevation, from which
with the
one hundred miles from Cape
extreme east point, stands the city of
montory, with a spacious bay on
in safety.
la Plata,
is
it
cannot be discovered from a
directed
by the soundings.
ship's
This
hill
seen at the distance of twelve or even sixteen leagues.
was
in 1724 that orders
were issued by the court of Spain
tion of this place, the settlement of
which
Avas
commenced
for the founda-
in 1726,
twenty families brought from Palma, one of the Canary Islands, by
de Zabala, then governor of the province of Rio de
B
la Plata.
with about
Don Bruno
The motives
of
MONTE
2
VIDEO.
the Spanish government in forming this establishment were, to anticipate the
Portuguese,
who had
manifested an intention to take possession of the whole
north bank of the river, and to prevent the contraband trade which was boldly-
on
carried
in these parts.
Sensible of the importance of the place, the Spa-
niards took great pains to fortify
A
Ayres. is
and
;
it is
defended by
a rising ground, in the centre of the isthmus,
mounted with but
is
much
it
stronger than Buenos
wall and ditch are carried across the isthmus, on which side alone
not surrounded by the sea
On
and rendered
it,
forts
it
along the sea front.
a fort with four bastions,
is
which commands the approach by the harbour,
brass cannon,
The
too distant to throw shells over the town.
barracks are said to be
bomb-proof.
The town makes a handsome appearance from
the harbour, being built
an ascent, and the houses interspersed with trees and gardens. houses exceed one story: they are of stone and brick, and have
out chimneys; the kitchen, cold.
and brought
The
into the
rooms
and
in fire-pans
intersect
Near the top of the town
and on the west a large church.
Monte Video
is
of the
flat roofs,
with-
being generally kindled in the yard, or in a detached
streets are broad,
are unpaved.
square,
fire
Few
upon
acknowledged
to
is
when
the weather
is
wet or
each other at right angles, but they the market-place, about 300 yards
There
is
also a
convent of Cordeliers.
be an admirable station for trade, having
a tolerably good harbour*, a central position for collecting produce, and the
* Azara, whose means of furnishing accurate information cannot be questioned, nevertheless asserts that this port
is
gradually becoming shallower, and there
soon be rendered unserviceable.
He
says,
moreover, that
is
it is
reason to apprehend that
exposed
occasion the more frequent accidents to shipping, because the bottom
hold for the anchors, and rots the cables and timbers.
is
to violent winds,
a soft
mud,
it will
which
that affords
no
MONTE
VIDEO.
3
navigation of the river so far being attended with
little
danger.
It rose, in
consequence of these advantages, to be a very flourishing place; but the
which have convulsed almost the whole of Spanish America, have
revolutions
involved
The
political
Monte Video
city itself
is
taken possession of
gone to decay, and though the Portuguese, who have are
it,
making some improvements,
country has put an end to
state of the
any plans
into effect
in ruin.
for that
as the distracted
commerce, the means
purpose are extremely limited.
for carrying
There was
many elegant villas belonging to
merly a very extensive suburb, with merchants of the city; but
all
still,
now remains
for-
the Spanish
has been so completely desolated during the con-
it
independence, that some broken walls and part of a chapel are
test for
lately
all
of what once contained a population of six thousand souls.
that
Pre-
viously to this struggle, there were fourteen thousand inhabitants within the
number
walls; this
is
now reduced
The country bordering on
to five thousand.
the east bank of the river, and denominated
by
the Spaniards, Banda Oriental, consists of very extensive ranges of gentle ele-
The
vations.
soil
forms but a scanty covering for the solid rock, that
underneath throughout the whole excellent building material.
and on the this
rock
On
the heights of
destitute of hills,
it
soil in
wood,
yet,
it.
Maldonado and Monte Video,
perhaps one thousand square leagues,
so near the surface, that there
cultivation, or for trees to take root in
found
and furnishes the inhabitants with an
tract,
frontiers of Brasil, in a space of
is
is
is
not a sufficient depth of
Though
the country
is
soil for
consequently
being somewhat diversified by the undulation of the
possesses in this respect a decided superiority over the west bank.
The
general consists of clay, of a blackish colour on the surface, from the
remains of decayed vegetables; lower
down
B
2
it is stiffer,
and of
different colours
MONTE VIDEO.
4
—white,
red, yellow,
and variegated. The
used, diluted in water, instead
first is
of lime, to whitewash the houses in the country; and the red and yellow are
employed
for painting trellis-work.
fine ochre.
clay; lity,
and
The jewellers
of Paraguay
and that of a dark colour though
all the
setting fire to
The Rio de
The
is
yellow,
make
purified a
little,
yields a
crucibles of the brownish yellow
used for dishes and plates of very good qua-
baking they receive consists in
filling
the vessels with
wood
it.
la Plata, at
Monte Video,
is fifty
Point Indio, on the west bank; the water distance
if
more than
five
fathoms deep.
is
miles across in a direct line to
brackish,
and
in
no part of the
BUENOS AYRES, FROM THE BANK BETWEEN THE OUTER AND INNER ROADS.
Buenos Ayres
is
hundred miles from feet
above the
on the west bank of the Rio de
situated its
mouth.
which
river,
It
is
built
upon a bank, from
To
flat
marshy
the north, the
interval,
from a quarter of a mile
bank does not recede
approaches and overhangs the
river, as at
the pretty village of San Isidro, which residence for the citizens.
Two
thickets is
eye can reach,
—a perfect jungle,
is
a
but on rapidly,
At
more than half a mile this distance it
Buenos Ayres, having on
its
again
brow
a kind of watering-place and summer
miles farther, at another village, called the
Punta, the bank suddenly leaves the as far as the
is
twenty
to four miles in breadth.
so far, leaving not
of low marshy ground for the space of sixteen miles.
it;
bank recedes
this
citj'",
above two
fifteen to
the general level of the country behind
is
the border of the river to the south of the leaving a
la Plata,
flat
river, falling
swampy
back due west; and below
it,
country, covered with rushes and
chiefly consisting of espinilla (thorn),
cut and sent to Buenos Ayres for fire-wood.
It affords
much
of which
harbour to nume-
rous panthers.
About two situated
miles
beyond the Punta, on the
on a small stream, which
falls
flat, is
the village of Las Conchas,
into the river
Luxan a
little
before
it
BUENOS AYRES.
6
To
joins the Plata. all
those from Paraguay, which
cordage, sail-cloth,
to return
which
is
up the
down
river.
and here
or Paraguay tea, wood,
matte,
hides
;
and
tallow,
discharge their
to
Buenos Ayres, and receive European commodities
The
principal reasons for the adoption of this practice,
attended with the inconvenience of land carriage for so great a distance,
the safety of the vessels in the port, and the security of the cargoes in
are,
At Buenos Ayres, on
loading and discharging. is
bring
cotton manufactures,
which are carted
cargoes,
of tolerable burden can come
this place vessels
bad and open, so that
in
ticularly the country craft,
the other hand, the anchorage
a hard gale vessels seldom hold their ground, par-
which have cables made of the bark of a
very tough when new, but soon rots; and great delay
is
lie
exposed
many days on
this
is
often experienced during
rough weather, when carts are prevented from discharging the times
tree, that
account, and goods,
craft,
which some-
when they can be
removed, are often injured by the wet.
The
tree
from the bark of which the cables just mentioned are made,
doubtless, the guenbe described this
kind of cordage
is
by Azara; who, however, expressly
not liable to
rot.
which grows on the tops of the highest stem
is
The
guenbe, he says,
when they
trees
about as thick as a man's arm, from three to five
are several to each plant.
It
produces an
maize, as well as the seeds, that are very sweetish taste.
From
ear,
is
asserts that
a parasite plant,
begin to decay. feet
is,
high
;
Its
and there
which exactly resembles that of
commonly
eaten, because they
have a
the top of the trees in which these plants have fixed
themselves, they throw out straight roots, without knots, of the thickness of a finger,
which sometimes
fail
quite perpendicularly, and at others twine round
the trunk, and then strike into the ground. fixed
upon a reed; and
their bark,
which
They are is
very
cut at the top with a knife
fine,
and
easily separated,
is
BUENOS AYRES. used for making
7
the cables and cordage employed in the navigation of the
all
Paraguay, without any other preparation than wetting age
is
cheap, never rots in water or mud, but as
of hemp,
it is
made somewhat
thicker;
also
it is
This bark, which
is
when
is
it
much
Spanish frigates have, nevertheless, occasionally used advantage.
it
This cord-
dry.
not so strong as that
The
injured by friction. this
kind of cordage with
of a dark violet colour,
is
also
employed
in
ornamenting rush mats and baskets.
The
ybira,
another native plant, which furnishes materials for cordage,
species of the aloe family,
good
for nothing.
The
and produces a
leaves,
These leaves are pulled covers each side
but the interior
may
fibres,
off,
which are not very thorny, are from three
and dew-retted
called caraguata. is
drawn from
with a comb, formed of six or eight
articles
an inch
it
of that kind.
dimensions
made
made
it;
or after
nails, it is
cables.
for
making
after
to
which, the skin that
has been dressed a
thinks that
it
little
gets loose or rots in the
would be taken
friend of his
in the royal arsenals with
left
used for caulking vessels, in
of caraguata, and on comparing
He
it
oakum never it
is
without any farther ope-
for
hemp; and
sail-cloth, rigging, cables, or
Azara mentions a
the stronger of the two. for the ropes
hemp,
this state,
the appearance of the caraguata,
would answer
thick,
like
In
preference to hemp, because this kind of
no doubt
resembling the pine-apple, but
fruit
be easily separated with the fingers, when nothing
ration, shoemakers' thread
From
a
not above two inches broad, and of inconsiderable thickness.
five feet long,
water.
is
it
who had
any other
a piece of rope
with another of the same
hemp, the former was found
would be scarcely
flexible
to be
enough
used for working a ship, but that there can be nothing better for
BUENOS AYRES.
8
In the annexed view, the whole length of the city
seen extending from
is
north to south about two miles, including the suburb.
It is generally half
a
mile broad, and rather more in the centre.
The
which form a harbour, with
vessels are represented in the inner roads,
commonly two fathoms
water, between the shore and an extensive sand-bank,
that forbids the approach of vessels requiring a greater depth, nearer than six or
Into this harbour, called the Balisas, small vessels proceed at once;
eight miles.
but the larger discharge part of their cargoes into river craft in the outer roads,
and then come into the
and convenience: there they
inner, for greater security
take in half their loading, and return to the outer roads, whither the remainder
of their cargoes
is
brought to them by the river
One
craft.
of these
is
seen
returning light over the bank; but loaded craft cannot enter the same way, for
want of water, and
A lie
British
man
are obliged to pass through a channel to the northward.
of war's boat
in the outer roads, or
where
vessels
accident.
is
shewn going
Amarradero, where there
have been known to remain
The Spanish
in shore, as those ships always
ship of
war the
for
is
excellent anchorage, and
a great length of time without
Vigilant,
among
others,
is
said to have
lain here nine years.
The water
at this place
across to the nearest point
is
alvvaj^s perfectly fresh,
and the
river thirty miles
on the opposite shore.
Buenos Ayres has another
port, ten leagues to the south-east of the city,
called the
Bay of Barragon, where
dation of
Monte Video.
It
is
the king's ships used to
lie
before the foun-
formed by the rivulet of Santiago, which can
receive vessels drawing twelve feet water, but
none
larger.
Hither
ships, after
discharging the cargoes they have brought in lighters in the roads of Buenos
Ayres, repair to wait for their outward cargoes.
BUENOS AYRES.
9
Before Buenos Ayres became the seat of a viceroy,
it
was considered
fourth city in rank in South America; but since that period inferior to
none but Lima.
stance, in opulence fectly straight side.
The
It
has also increased rapidly, from the same circum-
and population.
and broad, unpaved
which used
formerly had his college,
mud
is
regularly built, the streets being per-
in the middle, but
Most of
walls; but a Jesuit,
making
bricks
The
is
now reckoned
who was employed
to erect the
not
church of
cityr
has since assumed a very
architecture of the cathedral,
Thus,
their care in the execution of these
it is
dif-
who
and many
recorded that, in 1663 and the following years,
hundred of those people were engaged upon the
the cathedral of Buenos Ayres.
in
and of most of the
likewise ascribed to the lay-brothers of that community,
other public works.
ture,
is
the buildings, both public and private,
and lime*, and the
employed the Indians under
five
having footpaths on each
between seventy and eighty years ago, instructed the inhabitants
ferent appearance.
are
It
to be estimated at forty thousand,
fewer than seventy thousand.
churches,
has been held as
houses are supposed to amount to six thousand; and the number of
inhabitants,
the art of
it
as the
The
latter
is
fortifications, the port,
and
a spacious and handsome struc-
having an elegant cupola, and a portico, the design and execution of which
The
highly extolled.
gilding.
The dome
of the Apostles.
interior
is
contains paintings in compartments, representing the Acts
The church
of the Franciscans, and that belonging to the
order of Mercy, are next in rank
;
both have steeples and cupolas, nearly in
the same style as those of the cathedral. the Last Supper, which
is
In the former, there
is
a painting of
esteemed a very capital performance, considering that
* The lime of Buenos Ayres in beds, as there is
profusely decorated with carving and
is
of very bad quality, being
no limestone in the country.
c
made from
shells,
which are found
BUENOS AYRES.
10 it
was executed by a native
The frame
the Uraguay.
artist, is
an Indian convert,
in
one of the missions on
composed
also remarkable for being
entirely of
feathers of a bright gold colour, so ingeniously put together, as to
have the
appearance, even to the closest observer, of the nicest carving and gilding, and it is
This picture was
only by the touch that the difference can be discovered.
given to the Franciscans by the Jesuits, not long before their suppression.
church of
St.
John, on the
the converted
skirts
of the town,
There are
Indians.
is
The
appropriated to the use of
convents and nunneries, and
several
all
these edifices are built of a beautifully white stone, found in a plain not far
The
from the town.
whiteness of the public buildings
is
preserved and height-
ened by the frequency of the wind called pampero, which excellent bleacher.
and Calle
The
del Victoria.
principal streets are
The
cathedral, runs nearly the
former,
and behind, and many have
Among
regarded as an
Calle del Santa Trinidada
faces the
whole length of the
grand entrance to the
and
city,
is
occupied by the
Almost every house has a garden both before
superior class of the inhabitants.
flowers are reared.
which
named
is
latticed balconies, in
which odoriferous shrubs and
the European flowers cultivated here, the carna-
tions are the largest in the world.
The by
its
climate of Buenos Ayres
name.
is
proverbial for
its
salubrity, as
is
indicated
Situated between the 34th and 35th degrees of south latitude,
it
enjoys a temperature nearly resembling that of the southern regions of Europe. It
is
considered as an ordinary winter
which water frequent. capital of
is
slightly frozen
The winds
;
it is
when
there are but three or four days
reckoned severe when
this effect is
on
more
here are three times as violent as at Assumption, the
Paraguay; the west wind, which
is
being probably intercepted by the Andes,
scarcely
known
at the latter city,
though more than two hundred
BUENOS AYRES. leagues distant,
is
more common
boisterous in autumn, but stronger
11
Buenos Ayres.
at
Here the winds
are least
and more steady in spring and summer, when
they raise clouds of dust; which sometimes darken the sun, and greatly incom-
mode
the inhabitants, soiling their clothes, and covering their apartments and
furniture.
The most
violent winds are those from south-west to south-east:
the latter always bring rain in winter, but not in summer.
Hurricanes are
rare,
but they sometimes occur, as that of the 14th May, 1799, which overthrew half of the village of Atira in Paraguay, killed thirty-six persons, removed a great
number of
carts,
and
horse, the animal having been fastened
tells us)
smaller ones on the beach off
In
this country, the
damp
side of the roofs it is
floors
the walls which have the
:
is
is
moist,
the 18th September,
large vessels
and many
and
spoils the furniture, especially
of rooms exposed to the south are always
same aspect are covered with moss, and that
overgrown with thick
grass, nearly three feet high, so that
necessary to clear them every two or three
lodging and soaking through.
head of a
Monte Video.
atmosphere
Buenos Ayres, where the
tore off the
On
by the neck.
same year, another occurred, which stranded eight
the
at
Azara
(so at least
j'ears,
to prevent the water from
This humidity, however,
is
by no means
preju-
dicial to health. It
seldom happens that the vapours are sufficiently condensed to form fogs;
the sky
is
clear
and serene; and
Buenos Ayres, and then the same effect
of Lima, who,
it
is
recorded that snow never
in very small quantity.
upon the people of the country
when they go from home
the sight of rain, which
is
unknown
fell
but once at
This phenomenon produced
as rain does
upon the inhabitants
for the first time, are astonished at
in that city.
Hail
is
very rare; yet in the
storm of the 7th of October, 1789, twelve leagues from Assumption, a shower
C
2
BUENOS AYRES.
12 the stones of
fell, is
a bar which
wind
is
when
suffocating heat all
The
in diameter.
surest sign of rain
seen fixed at the horizon in the west at sunset.
is
an indication of rain on the day
be expected,
In
which were three inches
at night-fall lightning
is
more
particularly in
The same
is
north
may
effect
when
observed in the south-west,
and when the opposite coast
is felt,
seasons, but
after the next.
A brisk
a
seen from Buenos Ayres.
summer, there are frequent showers
of rain, accompanied with lightning; the claps of thunder follow one another
with scarcely any intermission, and the sky appears to be one sheet of
The
lightning
is
dangerous, especially
if
the storm
come from
fire.
the north-west.
During such a storm on the 21st January, 1793, the lightning struck thirty-seven times in the interior of the city of Buenos Ayres, and killed nineteen persons.
These storms, the great quantity of
rain,
and the violent thunder and
ning, cannot be attributed to the influence either of is
guay, unless is
woods or mountains; there
not a mountain within the distance of one hundred leagues; nor
single tree to the south of the it
Rio de
there
is
is
there a
la Plata, or to the north as far as Para-
be on the banks of the rivulets: hence
we may
the nature of the atmosphere which produces such meteors at
much more
light-
frequently than in Europe.
all
infer,
that
seasons,
it
and
Notwithstanding these circumstances,
not a more salubrious climate in the world; for the vicinity of marshes
and inundated
lands,
which are frequently met with, has no
upon the health of the
inhabitants.
The Spaniards who
reside in the
ill
effect
whatever
government of Buenos Ayres, proceed rather
from the continual recruits that arrive from Europe, than from the intermixture with Indians, whose number has always been inconsiderable in this country; for
which reason they speak the Spanish language.
Monte Video, Maldonado, Assumption,
Corrientes,
The
cities
of Buenos Ayres,
and Santa Fe de
la
Vera
BUENOS AYRES. Cruz,
may
13
be considered as the only Spanish towns in the extensive province of
Though
Paraguay.
there are villages
and hamlets, yet the inhabitants are not
united on one spot, but live dispersed in the country in detached houses, at a great distance from one another: so that there are no other residents near the
church, than perhaps the parish priest, a
Even when any of
the parishioners build themselves a cottage in the village,
they never
make
tival, after
which they return
use of
it
but when they attend mass, or on some religious to their habitations in the country.
above-mentioned contain about as vince.
They
negroes,
many
Spaniards as
by the
entertained in return
often manifests itself
husband and
wife,
when they happen
imitation.
much
essence of gentility
Add
stronger in
is
who
born,
it
is
consigned to the
takes care of
it till it
to this a dislike of every kind of
America than any where
thought to consist in doing nothing.
is
else,
dain every kind of labour, and look upon
Their chief vices
and among the lowest
class,
are,
it
if
as beneath
a passion for
them
see
employ-
because the these
artisan dis-
to follow their
women and gambling;
drunkenness: but they possess acute perception and
sound understandings; so that with the same
no doubt equal,
attains
Imbued with
and the notion of equality, the children of the meanest
father's occupation.
Ame-
During that period, the child cannot
the age of six years, or perhaps more.
is
the aversion for Europeans
to be natives of different hemispheres.
the Spaniards, as soon as a child
any thing worthy of
is
between children and parents, or between
charge of a mulatto, negro, or Indian nurse,
principles
cities
the rest of the pro-
Creoles, or the offspring of Spaniards born in
rica, that it
ment, which
all
The
fes-
consider themselves as beings of a far superior class to the Indians,
and people of colour; and so decided
Among
a shopkeeper, and a publican.
farrier,
not surpass the
latter.
facilities as
Europeans, they would
The mechanical
arts are
confined to
BUENOS AYRES.
14
'such as are absolutely indispensable
Spaniards from Europe,
Ay res, Monte
or
;
and these are practised only by poor
by people of
colour.
The women of Buenos
Video, and Maldonado, are not fond of spinning either wool or
cotton; but in the other towns, females follow that employment. dress,
and
fashions, are
Monte Video, which greater,
much
are the
the
same
as in Spain; but at
larger scale.
customs,
Buenos Ayres and
most considerable and opulent
and the domestic establishments on a
The
places, luxury
is
m
a
&
^
15
LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES.
Near
the centre of the city, a
little
to the north of the citadel,
a mole of rough stone, intended for a landing-place. dred yards long, twelve wide, and six high. the river
two
rials,
sometimes
Notwithstanding
this projection, it,
and
five or
The
it
reaches the boats; for with northerly and north-west winds, paris
driven out of the river to such a degree, that
men have gone
It has
even occurred within the
out on horseback on the bed of the river to the dis-
on the most respectable authority,
that,
to the people of
since the river
is
Buenos Ayres.
it is
about twenty-five years ago,
during a strong northerly wind, the water disappeared, and
mud
its
last ten
tance of five miles from the shore, during a strong north-west wind; nay, related,
fare
but a few yards, while at others the cart must go a quarter of a
frequently dry for that distance.
years, that
about two hun-
plying for the purpose of landing passengers.
ticularly if strong, the water is
constructed
or about fifteen pence each trip, be the distance small or great:
it is
mile before
bed
is
so shoal, that boats are very seldom able to approach
is
six carts are constantly is
It
is
left
an horizon of
Such a circumstance might happen,
here thirty miles across, and has no more than three fathoms
water in the deepest part, excepting close to the opposite shore of Colonia,
where
is
a narrow channel of four,
five,
produced by an easterly wind, which,
Buenos Ayres;
and
six fathoms.
if violent,
always
A
contrary effect
raises the
so that in a strong gale from that quarter, the
mole
is
is
water at
sometimes
LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES.
16
covered, with the exception of the extreme point, which
and has a battery of three guns. tion,
cause the river to
rise or fall
made of a phenomenon
still
reason could be assigned for prevailed, the water
dually rose again to
At
:
perhaps not
less
than seven
more extraordinary, inasmuch it.
On
in this state
also
till
it
remained
for
is
satisfactory
from the
a whole day, and then gra-
a
which the
back-ground.
custom-house watch-house, for the pre-
are not allowed
they are not carrying off bullion.
goods being taken
craft are seen lying in the
risguardo, or
who
all
by the
who embark
sentinel
they have presented themselves at the watch-house, and
this search, their
no
as
Mention
one occasion, when none of those winds
vention of smuggling, with officers to examine persons especially the former,
feet.
usual height.
its
to the custom-house, off is
rest,
these winds, according to their direc-
the mole passengers only are allowed to be landed,
Here, however,
higher than the
to such a degree, as to recede three leagues
fell
shore at Buenos Ayres
Thus
is
on the mole it is
British officers in uniform are
word of honour being deemed
sufficient.
or land; to pass,
ascertained that
exempted from
17
THE FORT.
The Fort of Buenos Ayres ditch on three faces,
is
a square building of brick and stone, with a dry
and a drawbridge
into the market-place.
It
the resi-
is
dence of the Chief Director of the United Provinces, and the government offices are
within
This view
is
walls.
its
taken from under the mole-head, on a
summer evening. Behind
the Fort are seen the churches of San Francisco and San
formerly called del San Benito, but
now named
Domingo,
in the street
the Street of Victory, from the
surrender of General Craufurd in the latter church.
The bank upon which tides the walls of the is
a passage between In summer
is
built here overhangs the river,
and
in high
Fort are washed by the waves: in general, however, there it
and the water.
this spot
water-front of the city.
out scandal.
the city
is
a favourite bathing-place, being the centre of the
Here men and women bathe promiscuously, but with-
The women
undress on the beach in parties, leaving a servant to
take care of their clothes, which they drop from under a large loose bathingdress.
As
feet deep,
the water
and then
before sunset
till
is
sit
very shallow, they walk out into
down, and wash and comb each
it till it is
other.
about two
From an hour
dark, thousands of females bathe here during the
summer
months, and afterwards walk on the beach, with their long hair hanging to dry
D
THE FORT.
18 nearly
down
a servant,
to the ground.
who
The beach
earlier,
and these are accompanied by
holds an umbrella over them as a screen and shade. is
covered with grassy knolls, overflowed at high water, con-
taining numbers of resort of
Some bathe
little pits,
which the
washerwomen, who are
day, great holidays excepted.
tide leaves full,
to be seen at
Each family
and which are the
work here by hundreds every
sends a slave or two; but
these people follow the occupation of washing for a subsistence.
use soap in this operation, but likewise beat the clothes with
and dry them on the
considerable
mands the anchorage of the inner by the
They not only wooden
number of
militia
mallets,
roads.
guns, and, with the mole*
com-
At the time of the capture of the
British troops in 1806, they found here about forty pieces of cannon,
of various calibers, mounted, and two thousand stand of arms. garrison
of
grass.
The Fort mounts a
city
many
The
usual
was seven hundred men; and about three thousand of the provincial
were supposed to be always in readiness to co-operate with the regulars.