Haynes Saab 99 Owners Workshop Manual 0856968447, 9780856968440

Citation preview

eyAVAN gg) 1969 thru 1980. All models

104,113, 121cu in (1709,1854,1985 cc)

629 Bay or

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Cumberland County Library” 600 East Commerce Street Bridge New Jersa toyn, 08302

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Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes and P G Strasman Models covered: SAAB 99 Saloon, L, GL, LC, LE, EM Sport, EMS, GLE, Combi Coupe (Wagonback) and Turbo; 1709 cc (104 cu in), 1854 cc (113 cu in) and 1985 cc (121 cu in) engines in carburettor or fuel injection form Covers 2-, 3-, 4- and 5-door, manual and automatic transmission

versions

ISBN 1 85010 079 9 ISBN 0 85696 844 7 (US) ©

Haynes Publishing Group 1976, 1979, 1980, 1984

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

ro in

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(5K4 - 247)

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AUTOMOTIVE ACCESSORIES

Association MEMBER

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to SAAB

(Great Britain) Ltd and SAAB-SCANIA

of

America Inc., for the provision of technical information and certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided the lubrication details, and the

Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’ and other Holts range products. Thanks are also due to Martin Penny who not only carried out

most of the mechanical work but was also kind enough to lend us his own SAAB 99 for our project. Lastly, thanks are due to all of those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual; particularly Les Brazier who took the photographs, Stanley Randolph and Annette Cutler who planned the layout of each page, Bruce Gilmour who wrote the Supplementary Chapter and Rod Grainger and David Neilson who edited the text.

About this manual Its aims

the official agent.

The aim of this book is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in two ways. First it can help you decide what work must be done, even should you choose to get it done by a garage, the

routine maintenance and the diagnosis and course of action when random faults occur. But it is hoped that you will also use the second and fuller purpose by tackling the work yourself. This can give you the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. On the simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, much money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover their labour and overheads. To avoid labour costs a garage will often make a repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor spare part. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. Such a person is the very one to buy a car needing repair yet be unable to afford garage costs. Generally the jobs are described assuming only normal tools are available and not special tools. A reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment and will make working on the car very much easier. Many special workshop tools produced by the makers merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job without them. On a very few occasions the special tool is essential to prevent damage to components, then its use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool, such work may have to be entrusted to

Introduction to the SAAB First introduced in 1969, the Saab 99 has now enjoyed a relatively long production run which in itself, has made for reliability and troublefree operation. Although conventional in design, the quality of construction and attention to safety features has ensured an increasing demand from discerning purchasers.

Using the manual The book is divided into thirteen Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs and is occasionally further split into sub-Sections. There are two types of illustrations: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference figure pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section number thus: Chapter 1/16. If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is given in this form: 1/5:5. Crossreferences given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter (eg; see Section 8) means ‘in this Chapter’. When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if looking forward from the rear of the car. Great effort has been made to ensure that this book is complete and up-to-date. However, it should be appreciated that manufacturers continually modify their cars even in retrospect. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

99 Few major engineering changes have occurred over the years but a multiplicity of model designations have been introduced, most of

which concern differences in trim or accessories and equipment.

Until 1974, only two or four door saloon versions were produced but after this the range was extended to include the three-door Combi Or as it is called for the North American market the Wagonback.

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

te

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the SAAB 99

2

Use of English

6

Tools and working facilities

7

Jacking points

9

Lubrication chart

10

Routine maintenance

11

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

12

Chapter 1 Engine

13

Chapter 2 Cooling system

45

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

52

Chapter 4 Ignition system

77

|

Chapter 5 Clutch

86

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and final drive

91

Chapter 7 Automatic transmission

114

Chapter 8 Driveshafts

120

Chapter 9 Braking system

124

Chapter 10

137

Electrical system

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

194

Chapter 12 Bodywork and fittings

212

Chapter 13 Revisions and information on later models

230

Metric conversion tables

300

Index

301

so

eee

SAAB 99 GLE - North American Specification

General

dimensions

Dimensions

1969 - 70

1971

1972

Overall length

14 ft 3 in (434.6 cm)

14 ft 3in

(434.6 cm)

(Saloon)

1973

1974 - 78

1979-80

14 ft 4 in

14 ft 4 in

(437.0 cm)

(437.0 cm)

14 ft 6 in (442.0 cm) N.America 14 ft 7 in

14 ft 6 in (442.0 cm)

N.America 14 ft 5 in

N.America

Overall width

5 ft6in

5 ft Gin

5 ft 6% in

(440.0 cm) 5 ft 6% in

5 ft 6% in

14 ft 7in (444.5 cm) 5 ft 6% in

(Saloon)

(167.6 cm)

(167.6 cm)

(169.0 cm)

(169.0 cm)

(169.0 cm)

(169.0 cm)

Overall height

4 ft 8% in

4ft 8%in

4 ft 8% in

4 ft 8%in

4 ft 8% in

(Saloon)

(144.0 cm)

(144.0 cm)

(144.0 cm)

(144.0 cm)

(144.0 cm)

4 ft 8% in (144.0 cm)

14 ft 10% in (453.0 cm)

(473.7 cm)

(444.5 cm)

Overall length

(Combi/Wagonback)

15 ft 6 in

Weight (kerb) Saloon *

2360 Ib (1070 kg)

early

early

early

early

2420 ib (1090 kg)

2440 Ib (1110 kg)

2620 Ib (1190 kg)

2380 Ib (1080 kg)

late

late

late

Late (to 1979)

2530 Ib (1140 kg)

2575 Ib (1170 kg)

2770 Ib (1250 kg)

2600 lb

N.America (early)

N.America (early)

N.America (early)

2460 Ib (1115 kg)

2470 Ib (1120 kg)

2560 Ib (1160 kg)

N.America (late)

N.America (late)

N.America (late to 1979)

2650 Ib (1200 kg)

2650 Ib (1200 kg)

2760 Ib (1250 kg)

(1180 kg)

Combi or Wagonback

2710 Ib

(N. America)

(1229 kg)

* These weights apply to 2 door models. Add the following according to specitications:

Four door mode! Automatic transmission Power steering

zs

See

a

oe

50 Ib (22.7 kg) 30 Ib (13.6 kg) 22 Ib (10.0 kg)

Full air-conditioning system

70 Ib (31.8 kg)

Capacities

Imperial

Metric

US

6 pints

3.5 litres

4% qts

15 pints

8.5 litres

9 gts

16% pints 14 pints

9.5 litres 8.0 litres

10 qts 8% gts

ae sie

10% gals 10 gals

48.0 litres 45.0 litres

12% gals 11.8 gals

12 gals

55.0 litres

14 gals

oe

5 pints

3.0 litres

3 qts

14 pints

8.0 litres

8% qts

1% pints

0.8 litres

0.8 qts

2% pints

1.25 litres

Engine oil

Ace

oe

oe

ee,

as

“cn

ar

Cooling system Sol [A neater:

1709 cc, 1854 cc 1985 cc up to 1975 1985 cc from 1975 Fuel tank:

ee fs

__... Up to chassis 99024297 From chassis 99024298 until 1975. é

From 1975

ie Manual gearbox ... Automatic transmission

=

Py

Final drive (with auto. transmission only): Up to 1975

1975 on

sas ad

me Wa

a

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ve

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1.3 ats

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

English

American

English

American

Aerial

Antenna

Layshaft (of gearbox)

Countershaft

Accelerator

Gas pedal

Leading shoe (of brake)

Primary shoe

Alternator

Generator (AC)

Locks

Latches

Anti-roll bar

Stabiliser or sway bar

Motorway

Freeway, turnpike etc

Battery

Energizer

Number plate

License plate

Bodywork

Sheet metal

Paraffin

Kerosene

Bonnet (engine cover)

Hood

Petrol

Gasoline

Boot lid

Trunk lid

Petrol tank

Gas tank

Boot (luggage compartment)

Trunk

*Pinking’

‘Pinging’

Bottom gear Bulkhead Cam follower or tappet Carburettor Catch Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel

1st gear Firewall Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch Barrel Snap-ring Lash Ring gear (of differential)

Propeller shaft Quarter light Retread Reverse Rocker cover Roof rack Saloon Seized Side indicator lights

Driveshaft Quarter window Recap Back-up

Valve cover Car-top carrier Sedan Frozen Side marker lights

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Side light

Parking light

Drop arm Drop head coupe Dynamo

Pitman arm Convertible Generator (DC)

Silencer Spanner Sill panel (beneath doors)

Muffler Wrench Rocker panel

Earth (electrical) Engineer’s blue

Ground

Split cotter (for valve springcap)

Lock (for valve spring retainer)

Prussian blue Station wagon Header Hard top Trouble shooting Float bowl Lash Coast Piston pin or wrist pin Shift Transmission Axleshaft Parking brake Soft top Heat riser Turn signal Dome lamp

Split pin Steering arm Sump Tab washer Tailgate Tappet Thrust bearing Top gear

Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Tang; lock Liftgate Valve lifter Throw-out bearing

Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake)

Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Estate car Exhaust manifold

Fast back (Coupe) Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber Free-play Freewheel Gudgeon pin

Gearchange Gearbox Halfshaft Handbrake Hood Hot spot Indicator Interior light

Transmission Tyre Van Vice Wheel nut Windscreen

Wing/mudguard

High Secondary shoe Whole drive line Tire

Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut Windshield Fender

Miscellaneous points —

An ‘oil seal’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A ‘damper’ is a ‘shock absorber’, it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common

in America, so different descriptive names

result. The shoe

end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most uncommon.

Therefore

the phrase ‘Primary’ or ‘Secondary’ shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be ‘Leading’ or ‘Trailing’. A ‘Leading’ shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a ‘Trailing’ shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone

contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a consider-

able expense, offsetting However, provided that will last for many years To help the average

some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. the tools purchased are of good quality, they and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. owner to decide which tools are needed to

carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled

three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to Practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the

vehicle, Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul! tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combin-

are included in the set. We recommend the % in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1% in long x % in dia (cross blade)

Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed

Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - % inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight edge

ation spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more

Allen keys Selection of files

expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Axle-stands

Wire brush (large) Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Combination spanners - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 17mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges

Brake adjuster spanner (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can

Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them.:Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Repair and overhaul tool kit

Valve spring compressor

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives

Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge

8 Tools and working facilities eS SS aaa ET ee Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable)

0.525

Y% in Whitworth; 5/16 in BSF

Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

0.551 0.562

14mm 9/16 in AF

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

0.590

15mm

Universal electrical multi-meter

0.600

5/16 in Whitworth; 3/8 in BSF

Cylinder compression gauge

0.625

5/8 in AF

Lifting tackle

0.629

16 mm

Trolley jack

0.669

17 mm

Light with extension lead

0.687 0.708

11/16 in AF 18mm

0.710

3/8 in Whitworth; 7/16 in BSF

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will

0.748

19 mm

have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

0.750 0.812 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.937 0.944

% in AF 13/16 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 22 mm 7/8 in AF ¥% in Whitworth; 9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF 24 mm

Care and maintenance of tools

1.000

1in AF

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

1.010 1.023 1.062 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.259 1.300 1.312 1.390 1.417

9/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in BSF 26 mm 1.1/16 in AF; 27 mm 5/8 in Whitworth; 11/16 in BSF 1.1/8 in AF 30 mm 11/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 1% in AF 32mm % in Whitworth; 7/8 in BSF 1.5/16 in AF 13/16 in Whitworth; 15/16 in BSF 36 mm

1.437

Working facilities

1.7/16 in AF

1.480

7/8 in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a

1.500 1.574 1.614 1.625 1.670

1% in AF 40 mm; 15/16 in Whitworth 41mm 1.5/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 1.1/8 in BSF

garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height.

1.687 1.811

1.11/16 in AF 46 mm

1.812 1.860 1.875 1.968 2.000

1.13/16 in AF 1.1/8 in Whitworth; 1% in BSF 1.7/8 in AF 50 mm 2 in AF

2.050 2.165

1% in Whitworth; 1.3/8 in BSF 55 mm

2.362

60 mm

Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become Another item which may be required, and which has

of 4 in (100 some clean lubricants, necessary. a much more

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250 0.275 0.312 0.315 0.340 0.354 0.375 0.393 0.433

% in AF 7mm 5/16in AF 8mm 11/32 in AF; 1/8 in Whitworth 9mm 3/8 in AF 10 mm 11mm

0.437 0.445 0.472

7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 12mm

0.512

13 mm

0.500

% in AF

: A Haltrac hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine removal sequence

Buying spare parts and vehicle

identification numbers

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: SAAB garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed SAAB garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc.). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-SAAB components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your

pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads etc.). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle

manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, individual vehicle number being essential to correct identification of the component

required.

The engine number on 1709 cc and 1854 cc models is located either just below number 3 and 4 spark plugs or cast into the top face of the cylinder head, adjacent to the rear right-hand side of the camshaft cover

(photo). On 1985 cc models, the number is visible below the

air cleaner

intake (carburettor models) or throttle housing (fuel injection models). The chassis number is located on a plate fixed to the rear bulkhead within the engine compartment. It is also stamped on the rear seat front

car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and grease, touch-up

support crossmember (early cars) or beneath the rear seat cushion (later

paint, filler paste etc.). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important

cars). On vehicles destined for operation in North America, the chassis number is repeated on the upper surface of the fascia panel just inside the windscreen. The colour code is marked on a plate which is mounted next to the chassis number plate on the rear bulkhead.

components

which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components,

Jacking points The jack supplied support during wheel recesses which are to car. When overhauling

reinforced lifting points. The front position is under the engine

with the car too! kit should be used only as a changing. Engage the jack in one of the two be found under the body sill on each side of the

crossmember and the rear one is just behind the fuel tank. Once the car has been raised, support it by placing axle stands under the body sill

or repairing the car, use the front or rear

jacking points. On no account be tempted to jack-up under the rear axle tube as it will distort and damage the axle assembly.

Using the jack supplied with the car tool kit

Jacking-up the front of the car

10

Recommended

lubricants

and fluids

Component

Castrol Product

1

Brake hydraulic system

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

2

Hydraulic clutch

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

3

Engine

Castrol GTX

4

Manual transmission Automatic transmission

Castrolite aoe

Castrol TOF, Type A, Suffix A or Dexron type

Final drive, automatic transmission

Castrol Hypoy Light (80 EP)

5

Carburetor (oil damper)

Castrol GTX

6

Distributor, breaker cam _... Fis oe a Distributor, felt under breaker plate lubrication

Castrol LM Grease Castrol GTX

7

Throttle control

Castrol GTX

8

Hood hinges

...

Castrol GTX

9

Clutch pedal ...

Castrol GTX

10 Handbrake links

Castrol GTX

11 Door hinges and door stops

Castrol GTX

12 Door lock mechanism

Castrol GTX

13 Boot lock mechanism Rack and pinion unit (up to chassis 99.022.278) Tie-rod ends, upper and lower balljoints t Front wheel bearings fT Rear wheel bearings t Inner universal joints t Outer universal joints t Clutch controls t Release bearing fT Handbrake bellows t

Castrol GTX SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB SAAB

Special Special Special Special Special Special Special Special Special

Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis

Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease

KK K*£

* Do not use any grease other than SAAB Special Chassis Grease, which is specially formulated (obtainable as a SAAB spare part). Note this grease is injurious to paintwork and upholstery. t Repack with grease at overhaul (where applicable). Note the above are general recommendations.

Lubrication requirements vary from territory-to-territory and depend on the usage

to which the vehicle is put. Consult the operators handbook supplied with your car.

Routine maintenance Refer to Chapter

13 for information and specifications related to later models

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. In the summary given here the ‘essential for safety’ items ar shown in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the'vehicle in general.

Engine

Every 250 miles (400 km) travelled or weekly - whichever comes first

Suspension

Check Check Check Check

torque wrench setting of cylinder head bolts and nuts. torque wrench setting of manifold bolts. cooling system hose connections. valve clearances.

Change engine oil. Check drivebelt tension.

Fuel system Check carburettor setting and CO level from exhaust.

Brakes Check brake vacuum servo hose connections. Check brake reservoir fluid level.

Clutch Check clutch free-movement.

Check steering and suspension angles.

Steering

Gearbox (manual)

Check the tyre pressures

Check oil level (photo).

Examine tyres for wear or damage Is steering smooth and accurate?

Transmission (auto) and final drive Check speed selector cable adjustment. Check oil levels.

Brakes Check reservoir fluid level Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Electrical Check battery electrolyte level and connections.

Check operation of all lights. Check operation of all electrical accessories and components.

Lights wipers and horns Do all !amps work at the front and rear? Do the wipers and horns work? Check windscreen washer fluid level

Every 5000 miles (8000 km)

Engine Check the Check the Check the the plates

sump oil level and top-up if required (photo). radiator coolant level and top-up if required. battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of with distilled water as needed.

Engine Change engine oil and renew filter. Top-up carburettor damper. Lubricate distributor.

Clean fuel pump filter (carburettor models only). Check and adjust drivebelt tension. Clean and re-gap spark plugs. Check distributor contact points gap and ignition timing.

At the end of the first 1000 miles (1600 km) Applies to new cars only and is normally carried out by

a SAAB

dealer free, under the conditions of new car warranty except for materials used.

Topping-up the engine oil

Gearbox Check and top-up oil in manual gearbox or auto transmission.

Topping-up the gearbox/final drive

Routine maintenance 12 e a e ee Check and top-up oil in final drive (auto transmission only).

———

Every 30000 miles (48000 km)

_

Clutch Check clutch free-movement. Top-up clutch fluid reservoir.

ee

———————— ’

Rea

See

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5 Bees

ee

ee SS

vorvor

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Engine Check valve clearances.

Suspension and steering

Brakes Inspect thickness of disc pad friction material. Check handbrake adjustment (drums up to 1974 only).

Suspension and steering Inspect condition of suspension and steering flexible gaiters. Check tyre tread thickness.

Body

Check power steering fluid reservoir level.

Fuel system Renew charcoal canister (fuel evaporative emission control system).

Brakes Bleed hydraulic system and refill with fresh clean fluid. Renew brake servo air filter.

Check handbrake shoe lining wear (up to 1974 only).

Lubricate locks, controls, handles and hinges.

Body and underframe Check all nuts and bolts for security and correct torque wrench

Every 15000 miles (24000 km)

settings.

Inspect and make good any damage to undersealing or bodywork.

Engine Renew spark plugs. Renew distributor contact breaker points.

Fuel system Renew air cleaner element. Clean charcoal canister filter (fuel evaporative emission control system). Inspect exhaust system for leaks or corrosion. Renew fuel line filter (fuel injection system). Check emission control system connections. Clean and test emission control system components.

Electrical Check headlamp alignment.

Suspension Check front wheel alignment. Check front suspension and steering linkage for wear Re-balance roadwheels.

Check shock absorber mounting bushes for wear and operation of shock absorbers.

Gearbox Change manual gearbox oil. Change final drive oil (auto transmission only).

Engine oil drain plug (1) is conventional hexagon-head type; manual transmission drain plug (2) has a recessed head

Special notes Threads Earlier models used nuts and bolts to unified coarse (UNC) sizes on which AF spanners should be used. On later models, a change was gradually made to metric sizes. On all cars, exceptions to the standard thread system may be found on proprietary components. Torque wrench settings Essential torque wrench settings are given at the beginning of each Chapter in the ‘Specifications’ Section. Bolts and nuts which are not specifically listed should be tightened in accordance with the following table: UNC Ib/ft Nm % in 7 10 5/16 in 18 25 3/8 in 29 40 Metric M5 4 6 M6 8 17 M8& 15 21 M10 29 40

Typical filler/level plug (arrowed) for manual transmission oil. Later models (except Turbo) have a dipstick; early models have a separate filler plug

Chapter 1 Engine Refer to Chapter

13 for information and specifications related to later models

Contents

Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation

26

Engine/transmission -method of removal

of,

Rs)

Camshaft, Camshaft Camshaft Camshaft

12 10 38 37

Fault diagnosis - engine . es ae Flywheel, crankshaft ane main bearings - emoral axe Flywheel (or driveplate) -examination and renovation General description és eee ae

se be oe a

sem 45 sim A nergt24 a 1

Connecting rods - examination and renovation Crankshaft and main bearings -examination and renovation Crankshaft, main bearings and flywheel - refitting Crankcase ventilation system ae

23 20 33 19

Idler shaft -examination and renovation ewe eae Idler shaft - installation sea a ot a Lubrication system hrs = Major operations possible with aie ennine in ane car

ee os: sig ae

oe ee Aree] oat

425) SD

Cylinder bores -examination and Fanpaton

21

Oil filter - removal and refitting

Ae

ee

Cylinder head - decarbonising and examination Cylinder head - reassembly and installation Engine ancillaries - refitting

30 36 41

Oil pump (bi-rotor type) - removal and overhaul Oil pump - installation ... Oil pump (vane type) - removal ahd piechaale

we dy oe

was of fers

Engine ancillaries - removal Engine dismantling - general Engine/automatic transmission - removal Engine/manual gearbox - removal Engine reassembly- general Engine - separation from automatic ieanamnission Engine - separation from manual gearbox Engine - start-up after major overhaul Engine to transmission - reconnection Engine/transmission - installation

8 9 5 4 32 e/

Oil seals - renewal oF ome Piston/connecting rod - reassembly i installation Pistons/connecting rods - removal and dismantling ... Pistons and rings - examination and renovation at Timing sprockets, chain and tensioner - examination and renovation xh 655 on

ee reo ee oe ea

PE wet)

chain and tensioner - removal and cylinder head - removal and timing gear - refitting (engine oe of ear) - refitting (engine in car)

6

en

Valve clearances- Checking and maiveuns

44 42 43

_...

a

i

Valve guides and springs -examination and renovation Valves and valve seats -examination and renovation Valves - removal ... a. es Sa “ eee

aaa ses aes ace aa ae

aes dee ane

Specifications

Engine (all models) - general Engine type

Ets

a

ae

one

Be

550

Soc

Be

ore

Four in-line, single overhead camshaft installed with clutch and flywheel at front of car. Five main bearings.

Engine capacity:

Wprto 1971)

(Cer

Fig. 1.24 Cylinder head components (1985 cc engine) Cylinder head Core plug Valve guide Locating pin Bolt Washer Camshaft bearing carrier Sleeve AAWH™ OANA Bolt

70 Bolt 711 12 13 14 15

Washer Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head bolt Washer Bolt

18 19 20 21 22 23

Valve Spring seat Valve spring Retainer Split collets Tappet

26 27 28 29 30 31

Cam Shim Camshaft cover Cover gasket Screw Washer

16 Washer

24 Canishaft bearing

32 Oil filler cap

17 Valve

25 Camshaft

33 Seal

25

Fig. 1.25 Timing components on 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines

21 Adjustable guide

Timing cover Oj! seal Gasket Gasket Dowel Bolt Washer AARWH ANA A Cap

Socket screw O Seal ~©

14 Mounting plate

22 Fixed guide 23 Chain tensioner 24 Guide plate 25 Bolt

16 17 18 19

Spring washer Crankshaft sprocket Idler shaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket

26 Spring washer 27 Lockplate

28 Bolt 29 Bolt 30 Lockwasher

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Dowel pin Woodruff key Spacers Oil thrower Pulley Bolt Washer Idler shaft Idler shaft retaining plate Screw

26

Wy3;aS

i si

Fig. 1.26 Timing components (1985 cc engine) Timing cover Oil seal Gasket Gasket Bolt Bolt Bolt Bolt Washer OBNAAARWHYs

10 17 712 13 14 15 16

Crankshaft sprocket Idler shaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket Woodruff key Chain Fixed guide Adjustable guide

17 Chain

tensioner

18 19 20 271 22 23 24 25

Guide plate Bolt Washer Bolt Washer Mounting plate Bolt Washer

26 27 28 29 30

Bolt Dowel pin Idler shaft Bolt Washer

31 Retainer plate 32 Socket screw 33 Pulley 34 Bolt

Chapter 1/Engine

27

on which the oil pump and idler shaft are located (photo). 11 Valves - removal

1 With the cylinder head removed, unbolt the camshaft bearing caps and withdraw the camshaft. 2 From each valve spring withdraw the tappet and its internal shim. The shims are of differing thicknesses as selected for valve clearance adjustment (see Section 39, of this Chapter) and on no account must they be allowed to fall from the tappets during the dismantling operations and get mixed up with those from other tappets. The shim may be stuck inside the tappet by adhesion of the oil but it can be released by washing out the tappet in paraffin or petrol. Keep each tappet and its shim in strict sequence for exact replacement. 3 On the two smaller engines, the camshaft bearing assembly is integral with the cylinder head but on the 1985 cc unit it can be unbolted. 4 Using a suitable compressor, compress each valve spring in turn, extract the split cotters, release the compressor and remove the retainer, spring, spring seat and valve; keep each valve in order for

exact refitting. A sheet of card with holes (numbered 1 to 8) punched in it is useful for this purpose.

12 Camshaft chain and tensioner - removal 1 Having removed the cylinder head as described in Section 10, unscrew and remove the bolt which secures the crankshaft pulley. In order to prevent the crankshaft turning, jam the teeth of the starter ring gear with a large screwdriver or a cold chisel. 2 Remove the crankshaft pulley using a suitable two or three-legged puller. 3 Unbolt and remove the chain cover, remove the tensioner. 4 Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprocket mounting plate complete with sprocket and chain. 5 Remove the chain guides. 6 Frorn the front of the crankshaft, remove the oil thrower. If the crankshaft sprocket is to be withdrawn, remove it with a two or threelegged puller. 7 Unbolt and remove the idler shaft sprocket and then remove the two socket screws from the idler shaft locking plate and extract the plate and the idler shaft. Note that the idler shaft cannot be withdrawn until the

water pump is removed (see Section 8).

13 Pistons/connecting rods - removal and dismantling

1 Having removed the cylinder head (Section 10) and idler shaft (Section 12) check that the connecting rods and their caps have been marked 1 to 4 numbering from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine. The numbers should be adjacent and away from the side of the engine

13.1 Connecting rod and cap marks

2 Detach the oil pump pick-up tube and its gasket and then remove each big-end bearing cap in turn and push the piston/connecting rod assembly out of the top of the cylinder block. 3. If the big-end bearing shells are not being renewed, make sure that they are kept together with their respective rod or cap. 4 If the piston rings are to be removed then they must not be over expanded as they are withdrawn from their grooves or they will snap as they are very brittle. The best method to remove them is to slide two or three old feeler blades behind them and pull the rings upwards off the piston using a twisting motion. The feeler blades will prevent the lower rings dropping into an empty groove. 5 The pistons can be removed from the connecting rods after extracting the circlips from each end of the gudgeon pin and pushing the gudgeon pin out using finger pressure.

14 Flywheel, crankshaft and main bearings - removal

1 Having removed the cylinder head, timing chain components and piston/connecting rods as described in earlier Sections of this Chapter, unbolt and remove the flywheel from the crankshaft flange. On cars equipped with automatic transmission, a driveplate is fitted instead of a flywheel. 2 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft oil seal retainer. 3 Check that the main bearing caps and their adjacent crankcase webs are marked 1 to 5, numbering from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine and note which way round the caps are fitted (numbers adjacent)

(photo). 4 Unbolt the main bearing caps and remove them.|f the bearing shells are not being renewed, keep them carefully identified in respect of cap and crankcase seat so that they can be installed in their original positions. 5 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and extract the thrust washers from their location on either side of the centre main bearing.

15 Lubrication system

1 The engine lubrication system is of pressurised type, the oil pressure being generated by an externally mounted oil pump which is driven by a shaft from the distributor driven gear which in turn is meshed with the idler shaft gear. 2 A pressure relief valve is located in the pump and the externally mounted oil filter is of full-flow type. 3 The oil pump may be one of two types depending upon the engine size and date of production. Where a vane type oil pump is fitted, then an oil filter is used which has a renewable element. Where a bi-rotor type pump is used then a disposable type cartridge filter is fitted.

14.3 Main bearing cap mark

Chapter 1/Engine

Fig. 1.27 Internal components of 1709 cc and 1854 cc type engines

Crankshaft Big-end cap Small end bush Big-end bolt Big-end nut Bearing shell Piston Top compression ring Second compression ring WOANDHAARWH™

10 Oil contro! ring segment 11 Oil control ring rail

12 Gudgeon pin 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Circlip Main bearing shell Thrust washers Spigot bush Flywheel Starter ring gear Dowel pin Flywheel bolt

Fig. 1.28 Internal components of 1985 cc type engine

21 Driveplate (auto. trans.) 22 Driveplate bolt

1

11 Circlip

2 3 4 5 6 7

12 13 14 15 16 17

Crankshaft Big-end cap Big-end bolt Big-end nut Small end bush Bearing shell Piston 8 Top compression ring 9 Second compression ring 1 0 Oil control ring

Main bearing shells Crankshaft thrust bearing Flywheel Starter ring gear Dowel pin Flywheel bolt

718 Spigot bearing

19 Driveplate (auto. trans.) 20 Driveplate bolt

16 Oil pump (vane type) - removal and overhaul

1 Unscrew and remove the four retaining bolts. 2 Withdraw the oil pump complete with driveshaft and extract the sealing ‘O’ ring. 3 Hold the pump so that the guide sleeve points downwards and prise off the cover retaining spring clip and twist the cover to one side. The cover will pivot on a hollow dowel pin. 4 Extract the rotor vanes and spacer rings.

5 The pressure relief valve can be dismantled by extracting its retaining circlip. 6 The internal components can be renewed if worn or a bi-rotor type fitted instead if the original pump is worn excessively. 7 \f new vanes are being fitted make sure that their rounded edges are outwards in contact with the pump housing. Lubricate all internal parts with engine oil as they are installed.

eee

17 Oil pump (bi-rotor type) - removal and overhaul

ee 1

Fig. 1.29 Engine lubrication system (Sec. 15)

Unscrew and remove the four retaining bolts and withdraw the

pump and extract the sealing ring which is located between the pump and the intermediate plate. The driveshaft wil! remain within the

Chapter 1/Engine

29

crankcase attached to the distributor drive gear. 2 Remove the two screws which secure the cover to the housing.

3

Remove the cover and extract the rotors and ‘O’ ring.

4 The pressure relief valve can be removed if the split pin is first withdrawn.

5

The endfloat of the rotors should be between 0.002 and 0.004 in

(0.05 and 0.09 mm). If it exceeds this tolerance, the end face of the oil pump housing can be rubbed down by holding it squarely on a sheet of abrasive placed on a piece of plate glass. Excessive wear between the rotors can only be rectified by renewing the pump. 6 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but note that the chamfered edge of the outer rotor is nearest the driveshaft.

Fig. 1.30 Exploded view of vane type oil pump (Sec. 16) Cover Dowel pin

‘O’ ring ‘O’ ring Oil pressure switch Drive gear Centre bolt Seal OAMNAAAWHA Oil pump body 70 Insert

11 ‘O’ ring 72 Pump spindle 13 Vane 14 Thrust washer

715 16 17 18 19 20 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

Oil pressure relief valve assy. Seal Piston Spring Stop Circlip

‘O’ ring Bolt Washer Driveshaft Oj! pick-up tube Gasket Screw Spring washer

Fig. 1.31 Exploded view of bi-rotor type oil pump (Sec. 17)

29 Pump body 30 Rotors

36 Seal 37 Split pin

32 Cover 33 Piston

38 Seal 39 Screws

34 Spring

40 Seal

35 Stop

30

Chapter 1/Engine

18.5 Renewing separate element type oil filter

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SEU UEEEEEEEEEEIEEE EEE

18 Oil filter - removal and refitting eT

Separate element type 1 Clean the exterior of the filter housing and unscrew the centre bolt. 2 As the filter assembly is withdrawn, expect some loss of oil and catch it in a suitable container. 3 Extract the element from the housing, tip out the oi! and wipe the interior of the housing clean. 4 Pick out the rubber sealing ring from its groove in the cylinder block and press the new one supplied with the filter element into position.

5 Fit the new element into the housing, offer the housing to the sealing ring and tighten the centre bolt to a torque of not more than

18 Ib/ft (25 Nm) (photo).

Disposable cartridge type 6

Unscrew the filter using a special wrench or one of chain type. !n

extreme cases,

a worm-drive

clip can be fitted to the cartridge to

provide a leverage point or a screwdriver driven through the cartridge casing if sufficient grip cannot otherwise be obtained. 7 Smear the rubber seal of the new cartridge with grease and then screw it on by hand only. 8 Run the engine (noting that the oil pressure warning light will remain on for a few seconds until the filter fills with oil) and check for leaks. 9 Whenever a new oil filter is fitted, the engine oil will subsequently require topping-up to make up for the oil absorbed by the new filter element.

5 9

3

19 Crankcase ventilation system

Fig. 1.32 Exploded view of oil filter (separate element type) (Sec. 18) 1

The system is of fully enclosed type. Air is drawn through the air

: pais bake

G Spring

cleaner and into the oil filler tube passing into the crankcase and then

4 5

10 pan 17 roe

emerging from the camshaft cover and being drawn into the inlet manifold. The air which is now contaminated with fuel and oil vapour

6

7

ai Seal

ae

Element

Sealing ring

12 Spring clip

is burned in the engine combustion chambers. 2 A flame trap and a regulating valve are incorporated the system.

in the hoses of

3 Maintenance consists of keeping the flame trap and regulating valve clean and making sure that the hoses are securely connected.

31

Valve cover

Valve

Closed cap oil filler

tube

/ /—

_

Oil trap

‘T’ nipple with

r Intake manifold

restriction

anteligin

Flame guard

Oil splash guard

mm

Fig. 1.33 Crankcase ventilation system 1709 cc and 1854 cc engine

a

Inlet manifold Valve

Flame guard

Oil trap |

Crankcase /

Hose from air cleaner

Y)"

Grankeasee”

(Sec. 19)

Camshaft cover Oil trap

S" Y) «|=\)

etm

Fig. 1.34 Crankcase ventilation system 1985 cc engine (Sec. 19) Above - fuel injection type; below - carburettor type

|

32

Chapter 1/Engine

i

ee

subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements is more 20 Crankshaft and main bearings - examination and renovation With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly cleaned, it is now time to examine everything for wear. The items should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated, as described in

the following Sections.

than 0.008 in (0.2032 mm) then it will be necessary to fit special pistons

and rings or to have the cylinders rebored and fit oversize pistons. If no micrometer is available remove the rings from the piston and place the piston in each bore in turn about threequarters of the way down the

bore. If an 0.0005 to 0.002 in (0.014 to 0,040 mm) feeler gauge slid between

the piston and cylinder wall requires less than 6 pull of

between 1.8 to 2.6 Ib (0.8164 to 1.179 kg) to withdraw it, using a 1 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different positions with a micrometer. !f more than specified out of round, the crankpin will have to be reground. It will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the journals in the same fashion. 2. If itis necessary to regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings your local SAAB garage or engineering works will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the size of new bearing shells. The crankshaft can only be reground once before hardening will be required. 3 Full details of crankshaft regrinding tolerances and bearing undersizes are given in Specifications. 4 The main bearing clearances may be established by using a strip of Plastigage between the crankshaft journals and the main bearing/shell caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque. Remove the cap and compare the flattened Plastigage strip with the index provided. The clearance should be compared with the tolerances in Specifications. 5 Temporarily refit tne crankshaft to the crankcase having refitted the upper halves of the shell main bearings in their locations. Fit the centre main bearing cap only, complete with shell bearing and tighten the securing bolts to torque. Using a feeler gauge, check the endfloat by pushing and pulling the crankshaft. Where the endfloat is outside the specified tolerance, the centre bearing shells wil! have to be renewed. 6 Later models have colour coded bearing shells which permit selective fitting of the upper and lower shells for more precise running clearance. 7 On the two smaller engines, check the spigot bush in the centre of the flywheel mounting fiange of the crankshaft. If it is worn it can be removed by tapping a thread into it and extracting it with a bolt or by filling the bush with grease and driving a close fitting rod into it. The hydraulic pressure created will eject the bush. Drive in the new busn using a suitable drift. 8 On the 1985 cc engine, a bearing is used instead of a bush and this is fitted in the centre of the flywheel (see Fig.1.28 of this Chapter).

21 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation 1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not

spring balance, then remedial action must be taken. Oversize pistons are available as listed in Specifications. 3 These are accurately machined to just below the indicated measurements so as to provide correct running clearences in bores bored out to the exact oversize dimensions.

4

It the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn as to justify

reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted which will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil. Several different types are available and the manufacturer's instructions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. 5 If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have not been reground, if it is essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a chance to bea in properly.

22 Pistons and rings - examination and renovation 1 If new pistons are to be installed, they will be selected from grades available (see Specifications) after measuring the cylinder bores as described in tne preceding Section or will be provided in the appropriate oversize by the repairer who has rebored the cylinder piock.

2 If the original pistons are to be refitted, carefully remove the piston rings as described in Section 13. 3 Clean the grooves and rings free from carbon, taking care not to scratch the aluminium surfaces of the pistons. 4 If new rings are to be fitted, then order the top compression ring to be stepped to prevent it impinging on the ‘wear ring’ which will almost certainly have been formed at the top of the cylinder bore. 5 Before fitting the rings to the pistons, push each ring in turn down to the part of its respective cylinder bore (use an inverted piston to do this and to keep the ring square in the bore) and measure the ring endgap, using a feeler blade. The gap should be as listed in Specifications. 6 The piston rings should now be tested in their respective grooves for

side clearance which again should be as shown in Specifications. 7 Where necessary a piston ring which is slightly tight in its groove may be rubbed down holding it perfectly squarely on an oilstone or s sheet of fine emery cloth laid on a piece of plate glass. Excessive tighteness can only be rectified by having the grooves machined out. 8

The gudgeon pin should be a push fit into the piston st room

: Fig. 1.35 Checking crankshaft bearing running clearance (Sec. 20)

Fig. 1.36 Testing the fit of a piston in a cylinder bore (Sec. 21)

33

Chapter 1/Engine

3 On the 1985 cc engine, the camshaft bearings form part of a separate carrier which can be renewed independently of the cylinder head.

27 Timing sprockets, chain and tensioner - examination and renovation

1 Examine the teeth on the crankshaft, idler shaft and camshaft sprockets for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted ‘V’ with the gearwheel periphery, and if worn the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared with the other side of the tooth. ie; one side of the inverted ‘V’ will be concave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the gearwheels must be renewed. 2 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and renew the chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30000 miles (48000 km) and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved. 3 The chain on the two smaller engines is of single roller type while

the 1985 cc engine has a double roller (Duplex) type. 4

Renew any worn components of the chain tensioner or guides.

28 Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation

Fig. 1.37 Checking a piston ring end gap (Sec. 22)

temperature. It it appears slack, then both the piston and gudgeon pin should be renewed.

1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, expecially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. After valve grinding, the valve

clearances will require adjusting (see Section 39). 23 Connecting rods - examination and renovation

1 Big-end bearing failure is indicated by a knocking from within the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. 2 Examine the big-end bearing surfaces for pitting and scoring. Renew the shells in accordance with the sizes specified in Specifications. Where the crankshaft has been reground, the correct undersize big-end shell bearings will be supplied by the repairer. 3 Should there be any suspicion that a connecting rod is bent or twisted or the small end bush no longer provides a push fit for the gudgeon pin then the complete connecting rod assembly should be exchanged for a reconditioned one but ensure that the comparative

weight of the two rods is within 0.212 oz (6.0 g). 4 Measurement of the big-end bearing clearances may be carried out on a similar manner to that described for the main bearings in Section 20 but tighten the securing nuts on the cap bolts to the specified torque.

24 Flywheel (or driveplate) - examination and renovation 1 If the driven plate mating surface of the flywheel is deeply scored or grooved then the flywheel should be renewed. 2 Similarly if the teeth of the starter ring gear on either the flywheel or

driveplate (automatic transmission) are worn or chipped, the complete assembly should be renewed. Reconditioning of the flywheel or driveplate is not recommended due to the balancing which is carried out during manufacture of the components.

2 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two jobs should be entrusted to the local SAAB agent cr engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they require renewal. Normally, it is the valve that is too badly worn for replacement, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 3 Valve grinding is carried out as follows:Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is complete. 4 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound. taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag then with a clean rag, and finally, if ari air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

29 Valve guide and springs - examination

and renovation

= Severe wear in a valve guide may be due to a bent valve stem. To estimate the wear, fully insert the valve and then deflect its tip in the

25 Idler shaft - examination and renovation

1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the idler shaft, if these are scored or worn, renew the shaft.

2 \f the fuel pump cam or the gears which drive the water pump, oil pump or distributor are worn then the idler shaft will have to be renewed.

26 Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation

1 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces and cam lobes for wear or scoring. If evident then the camshaft will have to be renewed. 2 On the two smaller engines, the camshaft bearings form part of the cylinder head and in the event of wear occurring in these, the complete cylinder head will have to be renewed.

opposite directions. If the deflection is more than about 0.02 in (0.50 mm) the valve guide must be renewed. This is a job for your SAAB dealer as the cylinder head must be heated and the guides reamed after installation. 2 The valve springs should be measured against the free-lengths quoted in ‘Specifications’ and renewed if they prove shorter as a result of continuous compression. In any event it is worthwhile to renew the valve springs if they have been in use for 30000 miles (48000 km) or more.

30 Cylinder head - decarbonising and examination 1 With the cylinder head removed, use a blunt scraper to remove all trace of carbon and deposits from the combustion spaces and ports.

34

Chapter 1/Engine

Remember that the cylinder head is aluminium alloy and can be damaged easily during the decarbonising operations. Scrape the cylinder head free from scale or old pieces of gasket or jointing compound. Clean the cylinder head by washing it in paraffin and take particular care to pull a piece of rag through the ports and cylinder head bolt holes. Any grit remaining in these recesses may well drop onto the gasket or cylinder block mating surfaces as the cylinder head is lowered into position and could lead to a gasket leak after reassembly is complete. 2 With the cylinder head clean test for distortion if a history of coolant leakage has been apparent. Carry out this test using a straight edge and feeler gauges or a piece of plate glass. If the surface shows any warping

in excess of 0.0039 in (0.1 mm) then the cylinder head will have to be resurfaced which is a job for a specialist engineering company. 3 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent paricles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which

will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised

and proceed as just described.

31 Oil seals - renewal

Fig. 1.39 Removing oil seal from retainer (1709 cc 1854 cc crankshaft)

(Sec. 31) 1 The engine oil seals should be renewed as a matter of routine whenever the engine is dismantled for major overhaul. 2 The timing cover oil seal can be renewed once the engine has been removed from the car and the crankshaft pulley withdrawn.

The seal

can be prised out without unbolting the timing cover but if the cover is removed and it is not intended to separate the engine from the transmission then the gasket between the cover and the gearbox will be damaged and a new section will have to be cut from a complete gasket before the cover is bolted back into position. Oil the lips of the seal before installing it. 3 The oil seal at the flywheel end of the crankshaft can be renewed if desired while the engine is still in the car but the clutch and flywheel will first have to be removed. The oil seal is held in a bolted-on retainer on the two smaller capacity engines and by an endplate on the 1985 cc engine. The oil seal can be prised from its location and a new one driven in using a suitable tubular drift. If the retainer or plate is removed in order to renew the oil seal and it is not intended to separate the engine from the gearbox then the gasket between the retainer or plate and the gearbox will be damaged and a new section will have to be cut from a complete gasket before the retainer or plate is bolted back into position. Oil the lips of the seal before installing it.

Fig. 1.40 Crankshaft oil seal retaining plate (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 31)

crankcase recesses (photo). 32 Engine - reassembly general

2 3

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during reassembly. 2 Observe the clearances and torque wrench settings given in Specifications, guessing will not do where modern engines are concerned.

bearing web of the crankcase. Make sure that the lubrication grooves of the washers face outwards (photo).

Oil the bearing shells and lower the crankshaft into position (photo). Fit the crankshaft thrust washers to each side of the centre main

4 Fit the bearing shells to the main bearing caps, oil them and install them in their correct sequence making sure that no 1 is at the pulley

end of the crankshaft and the caps are the correct way round (photo).

5

Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque (photo).

6

Fit the crankshaft oil seal in its retainer or plate according to type

(see Section 31). Bolt on the separate engine rear plate (where fitted) (photos).

33 Crankshaft, main bearings and flywheel - refitting 1

Clean both sides of the main bearing shells and install them in their

7

Install the flywheel (or driveplate - auto transmission)

apply a thread

locking compound to the flywheel bolt threads and tighten to specified torque wrench setting (photo). 8 A

locating dowel prevents incorrect fitting of the flywheel

(photo).

Chapter 1/Engine

35

33.4 Installing main bearing cap shell

33.6A Installing crankshaft rear oil seal and retainer

lt an

33.6B Engine rear plate

33.7 Tightening a flywheel bolt

33.8 Flywheel locating dowel

piston ring compressor to the first piston (no 1 connecting rod 34 Piston/connecting rod - reassembly and installation 1 The piston must be connected to the connecting rod so that the word ‘front’, arrow or notch on the piston crown will face the timing

chain end of the engine when installed and the marks on the connecting rod and big-end cap will be towards the side of the engine to which the oil pump is installed. 2 Use new circlips at each end of the gudgeon pin. 3. Install the piston rings by reversing the removal process (see Section 13). Start with the three section oil control ring, then the thicker lower compression ring (marked TOP on one side) and finally fit the top compression ring. Once installed in their grooves, twist the rings to stagger the end gaps to prevent gas blow-by.

4 Clean both sides of the big-end bearing shells and fit them to the connecting rod and the cap (photos). 5

Oil the piston rings liberally and the cylinder bores and install a

assembly). 6 Insert the connecting rod into the cylinder bore nearest the timing chain end of the engine so that the word ‘front’, the arrow or the notch

on the piston crown is towards the timing chain (photo). 7 With the shoulders of the piston ring compressor resting squarely on the top of the cylinder block, place the wooden handle of a hammer on the centre of the piston crown and then strike the head of the hammer smartly with the hand and the piston will pass into the cylinder bore leaving the compressor resting on the top of the cylinder block. 8 Turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is at the bottom of its ‘throw’ and draw the connecting rod down to engage with it. Take

great care not to scratch the bore with the threads of the big-end bolts. 9 Install the big-end cap the rod and cap numbers 10 Screw on the nuts and 11 Repeat the operations assemblies.

complate with bearing shell making sure that are adjacent (photo). tighten to specified torque (photo). on the remaining three piston/connecting rod

is

34.4A Connecting rod big-end bearing

34.6 Installing a piston/connecting rod assembly

34.4B Big-end cap and shell bearing

ee

34.9 Installing a big-end cap

a

te

e

35.3A Installing idler shaft lock plate

= 35.3B Tightening idler shaft lockplate socket screw with Allen key

Wh

36.2A Assembling valve components

36.2B Installing valve collets

i

36.4 Flywheel timing marks

Chapter 1/Engine

37

ensure precise valve clearances when setting is carried out (see Section

35 Idler shaft - installation 1

Oil the bearing surfaces of the idler shaft and insert it carefully into

the crankcase (photo). 2 Fit the sprocket to the idler shaft, tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque and lock it using a new locking plate. 3 Fit the locking plate which retains the shaft and the two socket

39). 4 Turn the crankshaft so that the ‘O’ (TDC) mark on the flywheel is in alignment with the mark on the crankcase (photo). 5 Turn the idler shaft so that on the two smaller capacity engines, the line on the idler sprocket is horizontal or with the 1985 cc engine, the bulge in one of the apertures in the idler sprocket is opposite and adjacent to the small hole in the shaft locking plate.

screws (photos).

6

4

on it. Do not use any jointing compound (photo).

If the sprocket on the crankshaft was removed, now is the time to

refit it, making sure that it aligns with the Woodruff key and driving it into the crankshaft with a tubular drift.

Clean the mating face of the cylinder block and place a new gasket

7 Clean the face of the cylinder head and lower it carefully into position. On engines which are fitted with all bolts and no studs, the use of two guide pins will ensure exact location of the head. These pins can be made from two Spare cylinder head bolts, the heads having been

36 Cylinder head - reassembly and installation

1

Insert each vaive in turn into its respective guide having first oiled

the stem (photo). 2 To the valve stem, to cylinder head) and collets in the cut-out to hold the collets in

fitted and shims selected (see Section 39) and the camshaft bolted assemble the spring seat, the spring (closer coils retainer, compress the spring and engage the split in the valve stem. A dab of thick grease will help position while the compressor is released slowly

(photos). 3

cut off and slots cut in their ends to facilitate removal before the cylinder head retaining bolts are screwed in. If the cylinder head is being installed complete with crankshaft, the tappets will have been

When all the valves have been installed, tap the ends of each valve

stem using a plastic faced mallet. This will settle the components and

down and turned so that the mark on the crankshaft front flange edge is Opposite the mark on the front bearing cap. Failure to observe this may cause certain valve heads to project into

the piston crowns when the cylinder head is bolted down (photo). 8 If the cylinder head is being installed with the engine still in the car or if the engine is out of the car and the timing cover has not been removed, then the chain will! still be attached to the camshaft sprocket

Fig. 1.42 Idler sprocket alignment (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 36)

36.6 Cylinder head gasket in position

36.7 Installing cylinder head

38

Chapter 1/Engine

—e—eeeeeeeeeee

Vo

————————_——

EE

which in turn will be bolted temporarily to the mounting plate (see Section 10). If the cylinder head is being installed to the engine which has been taken out of the car and from which the timing cover has been removed then the timing sprocket and chain will be refjtted later and the chain tensioner reset as described in Section 38. 9 On the two smaller capacity engines, tighten the nuts and the bolts in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.43 in two stages to the following torque wrench setting:

Ist stage (nuts)

22 Ib/ft

30 Nm

1st stage (bolts) 2nd stage (nuts) 2nd stage (bolts)

5 Ib/ft 54 Ib/ft 54 Ib/ft

7Nm 75 Nm 75 Nm

43 Ib/ft

59 Nm

2nd stage

70 Ib/ft

97 Nm

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6

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ii) The mark on the idler shaft sprocket is positioned as described in Section 36, paragraph 5.

Once the camshaft bearings have been bolted down, any slight

rotation of the camshaft can be carried out by applying a spanner to the

flats on the camshaft (photo). 4 The camshaft sprocket (complete with chain under tension) can now be fitted to the camshaft flange and the securing bolts inserted and fully tightened. On no account release the nut which has been holding the sprocket temporarily to the mounting plate until the sprocket bolts are tightened or the chain tensioner will be released and cannot be reset without removing the engine and timing cover. 5 Remove the temporary nut from the stud taking great care not to

drop it into the timing chain case. Bend up the sprocket bolt lockplate.

o|*

© ®,

Fig. 1.43 Cylinder head nut and bolt tightening sequence (1709 cc

1854 cc) (Sec. 36)

Fig. 1.44 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (1985 cc) (Sec. 36)

37.2C Camshaft flange and bearing cap alignment marks

Fig. 1.45 Installing fixed chain guide

37.3 Turning camshaft

—_rr — ——

mark on the crankcase (photos).

The cylinder head will have been installed as described in the

OW

er

preceding Section, paragraph 8. 2 If the cylinder head was installed without the camshaft, fit the tappets and selected shims (see Section 39) now and then lower the camshaft onto its bearings but before installing the bearing caps make sure that: i) The mark on the camshaft front flange is in alignment with the mark on the bearing cap.

3

37 Camshaft - refitting (engine in car) 1

—

iii) The ‘O’ (TDC) mark on the flywheel is opposite the alignment

10 On the 1985 cc engine where bolts only are used to retain the cylinder head, tighten them in two stages in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.44 to the following torque wrench settings:

Ist stage

ee

38.3 Idler sprocket alignment marks

(Sec. 38)

Chapter 1/Engine

39

Sats SS srs sss sss sss sv

pd

SSS

6 Reconnect all the components which were disconnected and described in the beginning of Section 10.

5 Fit the adjustable timing chain guide, inserting the bolts only fingertight and making sure that the short screw ges into the hole nearest

i

the idier shaft. 6 Assemble the camshaft sprocket to the mounting plate using the

38 Camshaft and timing gear - refitting (engine out of car) ee Ee Se ee Eee

temporary stud and nut (or screw) and then engage the sprocket within the loop of the timing chain (photo).

1 2

7 Pass the mounting plate and lower end of the chain through the aperture in the front end of the cylinder head and then turn the

The cylinder head will have been installed as described in Section 36. If the cylinder head has been installed without the camshaft, fit the

tappets and the selected shims (see Section 39) and then lower the

camshaft sprocket so that it takes up a position ready for fitting to the

camshaft onto its bearings but before installing the bearing caps make sure that the following conditions apply:

flange of the camshaft having the dowel and bolt holes in perfect alignment.

i)

The mark on the camshaft front flange is in alignment with the mark on the adjacent bearing cap.

ii) The ‘O’ (TDC) mark on the edge of the flywheel is opposite the alignment mark on the crankcase. an aperture in the flywheel cover.

These marks are visible through

On 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines 3

Make sure that the line on the front face of the idler sprocket is

horizontal (engine in normally installed in car attitude) (photo). 4 Fit the fixed timing chain guide but only install the upper bolt so that when the timing cover is fitted, the long bolt which secures the centre of the cover can be pushed through into engagement with the lower hole of the guide.

8 Slip the chain over the crankshaft and idler shaft sprocket. It is emphasised that the fitting of the timing chain and camshaft sprocket must be carried out without moving the crankshaft, idler shaft or camshaft from their set positions.

Q

Guide the centre stud of the camshaft sprocket into the hole in the

camshaft flange, fit a new locking plate and screw in one bolt finger

tight (photo). 10 Insert the mounting plate bolts and tighten. 11 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn in the normal direction of rotation by applying a lever between two flywheel bolts. Insert the remaining camshaft sprocket bolt; tighten the bolts and bend up the

locking plates on both bolts (photo). 12 On engines up to number 2954, refit the chain tensioner having

.

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x

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i

38.6 Installing timing chain and camshaft sprocket

atti 38.9 Camshaft bolt, locking plate and temporary nut

Fig. 1.47 Engaging timing chain with crankshaft sprocket (Sec .38)

40

Chapter 1/Engine

:

j

Fig. 1.48 Adjusting timing chain tensioner (early type 1709 cc and

38.11 Locking camshaft sprocket bolt

38.17A Installing chain tensioner rear plate

1854 cc) (Sec. 38)

38.17B

Installing chain tensioner

38.18 Checking projection of chain tensioner slipper

Beeesten

INT

4

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A

°

NSAIDS | seomtaen ULETETLELE

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Fig. 1.49 Depressing ratchet sleeve in

chain tensioner slipper (1985 cc) (Sec. 38)

Fig. 1.50 Timing chain tensioner, slipper

and internal components (1985 cc) (Sec. 38) A_ B

Earlier type Later type

Fig. 1.51 Timing chain tensioner with spacer

plate (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 38)

first relieved its tension on the slipper by turning the clamping sleeve clockwise with an Allen key. The sleeve is accessible after removal of the screw.

15 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn in the normal direction of travel and check the chain tension. The exposed length of the neck of the slipper must be at least 0.5 mm (0.02 in) but not more than 1.5 mm

13 With the bolts slack on the adjustable chain guide, depress the guide

(0.06 in). 16 On engines with numbers above 2955, the tension in the chain

with the fingers until the chain is taut over the tensioner slipper and then retighten the adjustable chain guide bolts. 14 Using the Allen key, turn the clamping sleeve clockwise until a distinct click is heard and then withdraw the Allen key and fit and lock the screw plug.

tensioner is relieved by turning the clamping sleeve clockwise. An Allen

key may be used for this operation if preferred. Insert a feeler blade

0.12 in (3.0 mm) thick between the underside of the slipper and the tensioner body and fully depress the slipper into the body.

Leave the

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er

Chapter 1/Engine ee

ee

feeler blade in position. 17 Bolt the tensioner and its small rear plate to the engine, remove the feeler and then press the adjustable chain guide against the chain until a clearance exists between the underside of the tensioner slipper and its

mounted

el

41

low down on the side of the engine (photos).

26 Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt (photo).

housing of 0.02 in (0.5 mm). Tighten the adjustable chain guide bolts (photos). 18 Turn the crankshaft one full turn in its normal direction of rotation which will have the effect of releasing the chain tensioner slipper and applying the correct tension to the chain. The exposed mesh of the tensioner slipper should be between 0.02 in (0.5 mm) and 0.06 in

39 Valve clearances - checking and adjusting

(1.5 mm) (photo).

1 The valve clearances are set by the inclusion of hardened shims within the hollow tappets. The shims are of differing thicknesses and are available in a range to suit all adjustment requirements (photo),

On 1985 cc engines

2 Adjustment of the valve clearances is not a frequent maintenance requirement but will always be needed if the valves have been

19 Make sure that the bulge in one of the apertures in the idler sprocket is in alignment with the small hole in the shaft keeper plate (Fig.1.42). 20 Carry out the operations described in paragraph 4 to 11 of this Section. 21 To fit the chain tensioner, first withdraw the slipper from the body and then using an Allen key depress and turn clockwise the ratchet sleeve until it locks in its fully depressed position. On very late models an Allen key is not required, simply depress and turn the slipper in the tensioner body. 22 Insert the slipper into the tensioner body but use a spacer about 2.0 mm thick placed between the slipper and the body to prevent the slipper bottoming. 23 Bolt the tensioner and its small plate to the engine and ihen depress the adjustable chain guide until the slipper is held against the spacer. Keep the tension applied to the adjustable chain guide while the spacer is extracted and then adjust the guide until the exposed portion of the

slipper neck is 0.02 in (0.5 mm). Tighten the adjustable chain guide bolts fuliy.

reconditioned by replacing or grinding into their seats and at 25000

miles (40000 km) intervals, the clearances should be checked. 3 Valve clearances should be checked with the engine cold (see Specifications for recommended values). If the cylinder head is being rebuilt, the setting-up clearances should be used. However, when undergoing routine checking, no adjustment need be made provided the clearances fall within the service tolerance range. Numbering from the timing cover end of the engine inlet valves are 2,3,6 and 7 and exhaust valves 1,4,5 and8. 4 \f the engine and cylinder head are in the car, remove the camshaft cover and the spark plugs then the crankshaft should be turned until number one cam lobe has its high point away from the tappet. Check the gap between the heel of the cam and the face of the tappet using feeler blades. Record the thickness of the feeler blades which give a

stiff sliding fit against the valve number (photo). 5 Now turn the crankshaft until number two cam lobe takes up a similar position (high point away from tappet). /f the engine is in the car and it is equipped with a manual gearbox, the crankshaft can be

turned by engaging 4th gear (freewheel locked) and pushing the car. If

On all engines 24 Remove the temporary nut from the camshaft sprocket centre stud. Bend the mounting plate to clear the stud. 25 Install the oil slinger (convex side inwards) to the crankshaft and then fit the timing cover and alternator support, where the latter is

automatic transmission is fitted or as an alternative method for manual gearbox cars (after 1970) turn the crankshaft by applying a spanner to the crankshaft pulley bolt. /f the cylinder head has been removed, then the camshaft can be turned by applying a spanner to the flats on

the shaft. (Fig. 1.52). With any method effort will be reduced if the

38.25B Timing cover. Note alternator bracket and centre bolt for fixed chain guide

39.1 Hollow tappet and shim

38.26 Crankshaft pulley and bolt

39.4 Checking a valve clearance

Chapter 1/Engine

42

i

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41 Engine ancillaries - refitting

—— ee ee e ee

ea

1 Reverse the sequence of removal given in Section 8 and refer to the Chapter listed for detailed instructions. a

42 Engine to transmission - reconnection

a ee on ee 1 This is a reversal of the separation procedure described in Section 6 or 7 according to type of transmission with which the vehicle is equipped.

2

Always use new flange gaskets and tighten all bolts and nuts to

their specified torque wrench settings.

Fig. 1.52 Turning the camshaft (cylinder head removed) (Sec. 39)

valve clearances are checked in relation to the engine firing order, 1-3-4-2, No 1 being at the rear (timing cover end) of the engine. 6 Having checked and recorded all the eight valve clearances, compare the actual clearances with those specified. Any differences will have to be added or subtracted from the individual shim thickness and a new shim installed. 7 Remove the camshaft and extract the tappets and their shims. A micrometer will now be required to check the thickness of the shims for calculation of the substitute shims as described in the preceding paragraph. In practice, it is often found that some of the original shims can be interchanged with others or your dealer may loan a selection of various thickness shims to you to avoid any delay in reassembly.

8 Install the selected shims, the tappets and the camshaft. Turn the crankshaft through two or three complete turns and then recheck the clearances. Refit the camshaft cover.

3. Check that the oil pick-up tube is bolted securely to the underside of the crankcase. 4 On vehicles equipped with a manual gearbox. install the clutch release lever. 5 With the engine suspended on the hoist, lower it carefully onto the gearbox but just before it touches install the clutch shaft bearing/seal and retainer and bolt it in position noting that there is only one position it can be placed in order to align the bolt holes. 6 Insert the engine/gearbox fiange bolts and drive home the locating dowels. Note that the coarse threaded bolts go downwards and the fine ones upwards. 7 Carefully drive home the clutch shaft using a soft-faced mallet

(photo). 8 Screw the nylon bolt and ‘O’ ring into the end of the clutch shaft, install the cover and fit the large circlip.

9 Install the starter motor (photo). 10 Fit the engine front mounting bracket (photo). 11 Fit the right-hand engine mounting and alternator bracket (photo). 12 Install the alternator aad drivebelt and then tension the drivebelt. Depending upon the vehicle, model and operating territory, there may be a single drivebelt to the side of top mounted alternator, a second drivebelt to the optionally specified power steering pump and a third for the air pump used in some emission control systems which are fitted to North American models. In all arrangements, adjustment is carried out by moving the driven unit on its mountings within the

limits of its adjustment link until the mid-pojnt of the largest run of

the drivebelt can be depressed by % in (12.7 mm) (photo). 40 Oil pump, pick-up tube and filter - installation 1 With vane type oil pumps used on 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines, offer the pump to the cylinder block making sure that a new ‘O’ ring

seal is used (photo). 2 Insert the four pump securing bolts and tighten them evenly to the specified torque. 3 On 1985 cc engine and smaller capacity engines which have bi-rotor type pumps, install a new ‘O’ ring between the pump and the intermediate plate, push the pump inwards and insert the four securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 4 Locate a new gasket and bolt the oil pick-up tube to its crankcase

mounting (photo). 5 Install the oil filter as described in Section 18.

13 Install the exhaust manifold using new gaskets (photo). 14 Install the oil pressure switch cover using a new ‘O’ ring seal. (photo). 15 Install the oil pump driveshaft and bolt on the oil pump (photo).

16 Screw in the dipstick guide tube (photo). 17 Bolt on the clutch cover and left-hand mounting bracket (photo).

18 Install on a new oil filter according to type (see Section 18) (photo). 19 The engine/transmission is now ready for installing in the vehicle, as described in the next Section.

43 Engine/transmission - installation 1 Reverse the removal procedure described in Sections 4 or 5 but observe the following points.

2

Pack the inner joints of the driveshafts with grease. On 1968 - 69

e! i

anni »

40.1 Installing oil pump and driveshaft

40.4 Location of oil pump pick-up tube and filter

42.7 Driving home clutch shaft

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SF

42.9 Installing starter motor

Pa ve

42.10 Engine front mounting bracket

lame.

42.12 Alternator installed and drivebelt

42.13 Installing exhaust manifold

42.14 Installing oil pressure switch cover

tensioned

n

2

ni yiiveelt

Geen, 42.17 Engine left-hand mounting bracket

42.18 Separate element type oil filter

43.2A

Engine front mounting connected

43.2B Engine right-hand mounting connected

Chapter 1/Engine 44 eS ee

eee

models, lower the power unit to within 2 in (50.0 mm) of its mountings

and connect the universal joints (right-hand first) while the ‘T’ pieces are parallel with the ground. On 1970 and later models, lower the engine to within 1in (25.4 mm) of its mountings and connect the left-hand driveshaft joint. Lower the engine fully onto its mountings. and connect the right-hand joint. Reconnect the end of the track control arm

(photos). 3

Refit the clutch slave cylinder and then adjust the clutch, as described

in Chapter 5 (photo). 4

Fill the cooling system with antifreeze mixture (Chapter 2).

5 Fill the engine (and transmission if drained) with the correct quantity and grade of oil. 6

If air-conditioning is fitted, reconnect the compressor and the

condenser and have the system recharged by a refrigeration engineer or your SAAB dealer.

44 Engine - start-up after major overhaul 1 ‘Nith the engine installed in the car, make a final visual check to see that everything has been reconnected and that no loose rags or tools have been left within the engine compartment. 2 Turn the idling speed adjusting screw in about % a turn to ensure that

43.3 Connecting clutch slave cylinder

the engine will have a faster than usual idling speed during initial start up and operation. 3 Pull the choke control fully out and start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor bowls will be empty and will require priming.

6 Where the majority of engine internal bearings or components (pistons, rings etc) have been renewed then the operating speed should

4 Assoon as the engine starts, push the choke control in until the engine will run at a fast tick-over. Examine all hose and pipe connections for leaks. 5 After the engine has reached its normal operating temperature,

changed at the end of this period. 7 After 1200 miles (1930 km) check the torque wrench setting of the cylinder head nuts and bolts with the engine cold. Release each nut or

check the carburettor adjustment (Chapter 3) and the ignition timing (Chapter 4).

bolt about a quarter of a turn before tightening it in the sequence previously indicated earlier in this Chapter.

be restricted for the first 500 miles (800 km) and the engine oil

45 Fault diagnosis - engine Symptom

Reason/s

Engine will not turn over when starter switch is operated

Flat battery. Bad battery connections. Bad connections at so!enoid switch and/or starter motor. Defective solenoid. Starter motor defective.

Engine turns over normally but fails to start

No spark at plugs.

No fuel reaching engine

Too much fuel reaching the engine (flooding). Engine starts but runs unevenly and misfires

Ignition and/or fuel system faults. Incorrect valve clearances. Burnt out valves. Worn out piston rings.

Lack of power

Ignition and/or fuel system faults. Incorrect valve clearances. Burnt out valves. Worn out piston rings.

Excessive oil consumption

Oil leaks from crankshaft oil seal, timing cover gasket and oil seal, camshaft cover gasket, oil filter gasket, sump plug washer. Worn piston rings or cylinder bores resulting in oil being burnt by engine.

Worn valve guides. Excessive mechanical noise from engine

Wrong valve clearances. Worn crankshaft bearings.

Worn cylinders (piston slap). Slack or worn timing chain and sprockets. Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not normally diagnosed quickly. In any event the ignition, fuel and emission contro! systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to be made.

Chapter 2 Cooling system Refer to Chapter

13 for information and specifications related to later models

Contents

Antifreeze mixture

Radiator complete with fan (1975 on) - removal and

Cooling system - draining Cooling system- filling. Cooling system- Pushing” Electric fan (up to and sear 1970 inodiet2) - removal cay refitting ee aa ae eS Fault diagnosis- cooling ain a ane 5a ee General description Radiator complete with fan feo:+6 1975) - removal oa installation er Bi wee nes nas ap ae

installation Ss. Radiator fan apernostarié Bwitch Radiator - inspection and repair WARN ar: 6 Acie)

1 oe

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ag a es

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting ... Water pump (early type) - removal and refitting

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Water pump (later type) - removai and refitting

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Water pump - overhaul ... aft Water temperature transmitter and dete

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7

Specifications

System type

Pressurised, radiator, electric cooling fan and water pump driven from idler shaft.

1985 cc (up to 1975)

1709 cc, 1854 cc

Capacity (including heater) ... Thermostat opens

15 pints (8.5 litre)

16% pints (9.5 litres)

14 pints (8 litres)

9 US quarts

10 US quarts

8% US quarts

179 to 188°F

185°F (85°C)

190°F (88°C)

8.5 Ib/in2

8.5 Ib/in2

14.2 Ib/in2

(0.55 to 0.60 kg/cm2)

(0.60 kg/cm2)

(1.0 kg/cm2)

Ib/ft

Nm

18 11 18 22

25 15 25 30

(82 to 86.5°C) Radiator pressure cap ...

Opening range

1985 cc (from 1975)

Up to 1970

1970 onwards

7.5 to 10.3 Ib/in2 (0.55 to 0.75 kg/cm2) Torque wrench settings

Water pump impeller (early type) Water pump impeller (later type) Thermostat housing bolts Water pump cover bolts

1

General description

The cooling system is of pressurised type with a crossflow radiator and expansion tank. The water pump is located in the cylinder block

and it is driven from a gear on the engine idler shaft. The thermostat is contained in a housing bolted to the front end of the cylinder head. The radiator cooling fan is electrically driven and controlled by a thermostatic switch. The inlet manifold and interior heater are connected to the engine cooling system. The design of some components differs between the different models and dates of production and any variation in overhaul procedures is described in the following Sections of this Chapter.

not recommended that the system is drained and refilled when hot but if it is essential to do so, release the cap slowly to allow steam to escape before withdrawing the cap completely. 2 Sei the heater control to maximum heat. 3 Unscrew the radiator and engine cylinder block drain taps. If it is wished to retain the coolant for further use, catch it in suitable containers.

3

Cooling system - flushing

1 Provided the coolant is changed at the specified intervals, the system should not require flushing but if due to neglect or oil contamination

due to a broken gasket it does require cleaning, then a hose should be placed in the expansion tank (early models have the tank located above

a

the radiator, on later models it is located at the rear of the engine

2

Cooling system - draining

1

Unscrew and remove the pressure cap from the expansion tank. It is

compartment) and cold water allowed to flow through the system until it runs clear from the drain taps. 2 In severe cases of contamination, remove the radiator and invert it

ee ee ee ee

Chapter 2/Cooling system

46

Fig. 2.1 Typical cooling system layout

Radiator Fan Expansion tank Thermostat Water temperature transmitter Bypass hose Water pump Heater booster fan motor Heater fan OBNAAARWH™ 10 Heater matrix 11 Heater water valve 12 Radiator fan thermostatic switch 13 Radiator drain tap 14 Cylinder block drain tap 15 Heater air bleed nipple

Vy i

SS =

(74

v7L\

{\ Mavi

Ny WU} War ne

Fig. 2.2 Radiator drain tap (Sec. 2)

Fig. 2.3 Cylinder block drain tap (Sec. 2)

Fig. 2.4 Expansion tank (up to 1970)

(Sec. 6) and reverse flush it.

2

3

carried out every two years. The heater matrix particularly prone to freeze if antifreeze is not below freezing. Modern antifreeze solutions of prevent corrosion and rusting and they may be

If a proprietary cleanser is to be used, follow carefully the

manufacturer's recommendations.

4

Cooling system - filling

1 Unscrew the cap on the expansion tank. 2 Open the heater core bleed nipple and set the heater control to maximum heat. Close the radiator and cylinder taps. 3

Fill the system with fresh coolant poured in through the expansion

tank filler neck. 4 Start the engine and let it run at a moderate speed until coolant is

ejected (free from air bubbles) from the heater bleed nipple. 5

Tighten the bleed nipple, switch off the engine and top up the

expansion tank to the level mark.

5

Antifreeze mixture

1

Standard type antifreeze mixture should be renewed every year,

preferably in theautumn.

With ‘longlife’ type antifreeze mixtures, renewal need only be

advantage 3 Before and check searching.

and radiator are used in air temperatures good quality will also left in the system to

all year round. adding antifreeze to the system, check all hose connections the tightness of the cylinder head bolts as such solutions are The cooling system should be drained and partially filled

with clean water as previously explained, before adding antifreeze.

4 The quantity of antifreeze which should be used for various levels of protection is given in the table below, expressed as a percentage of the system capacity. Antifreeze

Protection to

volume

25% 30% 35%

Safe pump circulation

—26°C (—15°F) —33°C (—28°F) —39°C (—38°F)

—12°C ( “10°R) SHOE RSS) —20°C (— 4°F)

5 Where the cooling system contains an antifreeze solution any topping-up should be done with a solution made up in similar proportions to the original in order to avoid dilution.

Chapter 2/Cooling system

47

6 Electric fan (up to and including 1970 models) - removal and refitting Remove the battery. Unbolt the expansion tank and move it to one side. Disconnect the leads from the fan motor. Unbolt the fan assembly and withdraw it. Remove the fan securing nut and pull the fan from the motor shaft. ONaoRWN Remove the

two fan motor securing bolts and separate the motor from the housing. 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Operation of the fan can be checked after installation by earthing the lead to the thermostatic

switch (battery connected and ignition on). 7

Radiator complete with fan (up to 1975) - removal and installation

1

Drain the coolant.

2

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator (on cars built up to

1970, move the expansion tank to one side) (photos). 3 Disconnect the leads from the electric fan and the thermostat switch.

4

a

fe

wits

7.2A Radiator hose from thermostat housing

Oncars built up to 1972, unbolt and remove the radiator grille

assembly complete with radiator, fan and headlamps. On later cars, remove the headlamps before withdrawing the grille.

5 6

The radiator and fan assembly can be unbolted from the grille panel. Reassembly and installation are reversals of removal and dismantling.

8

Radiator complete with fan (1975 on) - removal and installation

7 Remove the battery. 2 Drain the coolant. 3 Disconnect the headlamp lens wiper pushrod from the wiper motor crank in front of the radiator. 4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator.

5 Disconnect the leads from the fan, the headlamp lens, wiper motor, the ignition coil and thermal switch. 6 Unscrew the radiator securing screws and lift the radiator from the engine compartment. The fan motor and the wiper motor can be released from the radiator if required, by removing the attachment bolts. 7 Installation is a reversal of removal.

9

Radiator - inspection and repair

1

Inspect the radiator for leaks, if evident it is recommended

that the

repair is left to a specialist or the radiator is exchanged for a reconditioned one. 2 Whenever the radiator is removed, take the opportunity of brushing al! flies and accumulated dirt from the radiator fins or applying air from a tyre air compressor in the reverse direction to normal airflow. 3 The radiator pressure cap should be tested by a service station and if it leaks or its spring has weakened, it must be renewed with one of specified pressure rating.

10 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 1 The thermostat is located in a housing at the forward end of the cylinder head. The design of the housing differs according to model as shown in Figs. 2.6 and 2.7. 2 Access to the thermostat is obtained by partially draining the cooling system and unbolting the thermostat housing cover.

3 If the thermostat is stuck in its seat, do not prise it upwards by passing a lever under its bridge piece but cut round the seat with a sharp pointed knife. 4 To test whether the unit is serviceable, suspend the thermostat on a piece of string in a pan of water being heated. Using a thermometer, with reference to the opening and closing temperature in Specifications, its operation may be checked. The thermostat should be renewed if it is stuck open or closed or it fails to operate at the specified temperature. The operation of the thermostat is not instantaneous and sufficient time must be allowed for movement during testing. Never replace a

Fig. 2.5 Removing radiator/fan assembly (1975 on) (Sec. 8)

¥

‘

\.

,)

Fig. 2.7 Thermostat and cover (1971 onwards) (Sec. 10)

es

11.7A Water pump (early type) bypass hose

11.7B Water pump cover (early type)

Fig. 2.9 Releasing water pump impeller (early type)

setscrew (Sec. 11)

Fig. 2.8 Water pump impeller

and shaft (early type) (Sec. 11)

11.7C Water pump showing setscrew

impeller (early type)

Fig. 2.10 Removing early type water

pump (Sec. 11)

Chapter 2/Cooling system

49

faulty unit - leave it out if no replacement is available immediately. 5

Replacement of the thermostat is a reversal of the removal

procedure. Ensure the mating faces of the housing are clean. Use a new gasket with jointing compound. The word ‘Top’ which appears on the thermostat face must be visible from above.

—— ee 11 Water pump (early type) - removal and refitting ee 1 The earlier type of water pump can be identified by the setscrew which retains the impeller to the pump shaft. 2 Drain the cooling system. 3 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal. 4 Remove the inlet manifold. 5 Remove the alternator and the bolt which secures the alternator

Fig. 2.11 Removing bearing housing (early type water pump) (Sec. 11)

mounting bracket to the water pump cover.

6 Disconnect both engine rear mountings and using a jack and wooden block as an insulator, raise the rear end of the power unit until the upper screw which retains the alternator bracket to the transmission cover can be removed. Release the lower screw and twist the bracket as far from the engine as possible. 7

Remove the other two bracket screws from the water pump cover

and withdraw the cover (photos). 8 Hold the neck of the water pump impeller quite still and unscrew the setscrew, noting that this has a left-hand thread. 9 Aslide-hammer should now be attached to the end of the water pump driveshaft and the shaft withdrawn upwards. If the bearing housing is left behind in the cylinder block it can be removed by fitting a nut and large washer to the end of the slide hammer and withdrawing the bearing housing upwards. 10 To refit the water pump, mount it (impeller removed), on top of the flange on the cylinder block and push it carefully into engagement with the gear teeth on the idler shaft. Drive it fully home using a tubular drift. 11 Install the impeller, washer and setscrew and tighten to the specified torque (left-hand thread). Hold the impeller quite still during this operation.

12 Fit the pump cover using a new gasket. On certain 1709cc and 1854 cc engines which have the type of water pump cover shown

in Fig.

Fig. 2.12 Checking water pump cover clearance (1709 cc 1854 cc engines only) (Sec. 11)

2.12, a clearance must exist between the face of the setscrew and the underside of the cover of between 0.01 and 0.02 in. (0.25 and 0.50 mm) when the cover is bolted down. Gaskets must be selected and installed between cover and block to obtain this clearance which can be established in the following way. Place an 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) thick shim on top of the impeller setscrew and hold the cover in position by hand pressure. Using feeler blades, check the gap between the cover and the engine block. Install one or more gaskets as necessary to equal the thickness of the gap just measured. The gaskets are available in different thicknesses. 13 Reverse the operations described in paragrapns 1 to 6 of this Section.

12 Water pump (later type) - removal and refitting 1

The later type of water pump is identified by the nut (instead of

the setscrew on earlier types) which retains the impeller. 2 Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 2 to 7 in the

preceding Section. 3

Hold the water pump impeller quite stil! and unscrew the securing

nut (left-hand thread). 4 The water pump should now be drawn out of the engine block. A special tool is available to do this but if a bolt can be obtained which has the same thread as the impeller nut, the nut can be used to attach the bolt to the pump shaft and then using suitable distance pieces, a second nut can be screwed onto the temporary bolt and the pressure created will withdraw the pump assembly. On no account attempt to use the slide hammer method employed for the removal of earlier type

pumps. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal but apply pressure using a bolt and a bridge screwed to the cover bolt holes. On no account drive the assembly into the engine block using hammer blows (Fig. 2.14).

Fig. 2.13 Water pump impeller and shaft (later type) (Sec. 12)

Chapter 2/Cooling system

50

first remove 2 Support 3 Support pump shaft

it from the cylinder block. the underside of the impeller and drive the shaft from it. the pump so that the driven gear is uppermost and press the from the bearing housing. Extract the pump seal, the AK

ring, the thrower (early pumps only) and the sealing ring. 4

€xtract the bal! bearing circlip and then support the bearing (driven

gear downwards) and press the shaft from the bearing. 5

Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling using all the components

supplied in the repair kit.

14 Water temperature transmitter and gauge 1 The water temperature transmitter is screwed into the thermostat housing. 2 Failure or incorrect readings on the temperature gauge should first be checked by examining the connecting leads for security and condition. 3 Testing of the transmitter or gauge can only be satisfactorily carried out by substitution of new components. 4 The transmitter can be removed after partially draining the cooling

system. 5

The temperature gauge can be removed as described in Chapter 10.

15 Radiator fan thermostatic switch

Fig. 2.14 Installing later type water pump (Sec. 12) 13 Water pump - overhaul 1 In view of the normally long operating life of the water pump, it is possible that the purchase of a new or reconditioned unit may be as economical as servicing the original pump, particularly if the necessary pressing facilities are not available. Where the pump is to be dismantled,

Fig. 2.15 Exploded view of early type water pump (Sec. 13) 7

Cover Gasket Impeller 4 Seal 3) Thrower 6 Sealing ring 7 Circlip 2 3

8 9 10 11 12

13

Bearing Oil thrower ring Bearing housing ‘O’ rings Sealing ring Shaft

1 2

The switch is installed in the outlet pipe of the radiator. It is a good idea to check the operation of the fan periodically by switching on the ignition and disconnecting the lead from the thermostatic switch and earthing the end of the lead. The fan should start. 3 If consistently high running temperatures indicate that the thermoswitch is defective (the fan motor having been proved serviceable) first check the wiring and if this is in order, renew the switch by

unscrewing it, having first drained the cooling system.

Fig. 2.16 Exploded view of later type water pump (Sec. 13) Cover Gasket Impeller Seal Sealing ring Circlip

Bearing Bearing housing ‘O’ ring Sealing ring Shaft

Chapter 2/Cooling system

Fig. 2.17 Radiator fan thermostatic switch (Sec. 15)

16 Fault diagnosis - cooling system

Symptom ee

Heat generated in cylinder not being successfully disposed of by radiator

Reason/s eS

Insufficient water in cooling system. Electric fan or thermostat switch faulty. Radiator core blocked or radiator grille restricted. Water hose collapsed, impeding flow. Thermostat not opening properly. Ignition advance and retard incorrectly set (accompanied by loss of power and perhaps misfiring). Carburettor incorrectly adjusted (mixture too weak). Exhaust system partially blocked. Oil level in sump too low. Blown cylinder head gasket (water/steam being forced down the radiator overflow pipe under pressure). Engine not yet run-in.

Brakes binding.

Cool running

Thermostat jammed open. Incorrect grade of thermostat fitted allowing premature opening of valve. Thermostat missing.

Leaks in system

Loose clips on water hoses. Water hoses perished and leaking. Radiator core leaking. Thermostat gasket leaking. Pressure cap spring worn or seal ineffective. Blown cylinder head gasket (pressure in system forcing

water/steam down overflow pipe). Cylinder wall or head cracked.

a1

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems Refer to Chapter

13 for information and specifications related to later models

Contents

Accelerator Air cleaner Air cleaner Carburettor

linkage (carburettor models)! - eenvietna (fuel injection)- servicing.. : (175 DC - 2S) - slow- onnine Rciusament!

Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) - 1709 cc and 1854 cc engine- slows

Fuel evaporative emission control system - maintenance

Fuel injection system (up to 1974)- adjustments Fuel injection system (up to 1974) -maintenance Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - location, removal ade installation of main components

running adjustment

Fuel injection system (up to 1974)- operating principles

Carburettor (175 CD 0 2S) - 1985 cc engine -Picoennnine,

Fuel injection system (1975 on) - adjustments

adjustment

Fuel injection system (1975 on) - maintenance

eee

Carburettor (175 CD - 28) - overnsdit

Fuel injection system (1975 on) - operation principles

Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1709 cc oad 1854 cc Eranes= overhaul

Fuel injection system (1975 on) - location, removal and installation of main components

Carburettor (175. CD - 2SE) 1985 cc Felioc fovernienl

Fuel injection system (1975 on) - testing components Fuel level transmitter and gauge

Carburettor overflow valve - adjustment Carburettor - removal and installation Deceleration valve- testing and adjustment EGR systems - maintenance Exhaust emission control systems- ercnpuen

Ree

Fast idle setting- all carburettors Fault diagnosis -carburettor type fuel eystene

Fault diagnosis -exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) evetem

Fuel pump (mechanical) -description and servicing” Fuel pump (mechanical early type) -overhaul Fuel pump

(mechanical) - removal and installation

...

Fuel tank - description, removal and installation General description Ae Manifolds and exhaust system : ees Manifold air injection system - maintenance ...

Fault diagnosis- fuel injection system

Specifications

Fuel system with carburettor System type

Rear mounted carburettor.

fuel tank, mechanically operated fuel pump, single

Fuel tank capacity To chassis 99024297 From chassis 99024298 From 1975

10% gals (4.8 litres, 12.75 US gals) 10 Imp gals (45 litres, 11.8 US gals)

12 Imp. gals (55 litres, 14 US gals)

Fuel pump Type a Pressure at eae ‘speed: Early ... Late

A.C.

1.4 to 2.4 Ib/sq in (0.10 to 0.17 kg/sq cm) 2.15 to 2.9 Ib/sq in (0.15 to 0.20 kg/sq cm)

Carburettor application

1709 cc 1854 cc 1985 cc

1969 to 1974

1969 to 1974 N. America

175 CD - 2S 175 CD - 2S 175'CD- 2S

175 CD - 2SE 175 CD - 2SE —

Carburettor - Zenith- awomegy ie 175 CD - 2S Diameter ... Needle: 1709 cc and 1854 cc 1985 cc Fuel inlet valve: To 1971 After 1971 oe Fast idle cam to bolt plesrance Idling speed

1.75 in (44.45 mm)

B1W (swing) B1BR 1.75 mm 2mm

0.02 to 0.04 in (0.5 to 1 mm) 800 to 900 rev/min

1975 on

175 CD - 2SE

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems ns

53

Carburettor - Zenith-Srombers £ype 175 J CD - 2SEBente to 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines) Diameter

...

1.75 in (44.45 mm)

Needle (swing)

B1iAG

Fuel inlet valve:

To 1971 After 1971

1.75 mm 2mm

Pe

Fast idle cam to bolt clearance Idling speed

0.02 to 0.08 in (0.5 to 2.0 mm) 800 to 900 rev/min

C.O. (max. contact) at Bling

2.5 to 3.5 %

Carburettor - Zenith-ey Diameter

ot pyPes175 CD - 2SEpi,

to 1985 cc engines)

.

1.75 in (44.45 mm)

Needle (swing)

B1DS 2mm

Fuel inlet valve a3 Fast idle cam to bolt Bisaisnce Idling speed

C.O. (max. content) at idling

:

Temperature compensator at 68°F (20°C) opening |

0.02 to 0.04 in (0.5 to 1.0 mm) 825 to 875 rev/min 3.5% 0.004 to 0.012 in (0.1 to 0.3 mm)

Fuel injection Boe auntopee Type Injection valve Noliace Stroke Opening time (at noeaal road speedsii™ Cold start valve voltage ... Spraying angle 5 Fuel pump consumption Capacity:

1709/1854 cc

Bosch electronic 3v

0.006 in (0.15 mm) 2.5 to 9.0 milliseconds 12v

100°

2.5 amp. at 14v

14.3 Imp. gals (65 litres) per hr. 11.0 Imp. gals (50 litres) per hr. 800 to 850 rev/min

1985 cc Idling speed

Fuel injection system (1975 on) Type Fuel pump Cae

a

eno

(return pipe discharge in 30 secs) Fuel pump operating voltage

Control pressure (warm engine) Line pressure

=n

Injection valve opening recsure Idling speed

C.O. (max content)

Bosch Ci (continuous injection) 1.31 Imp. pints (750 mi) 11.5v (minimum).

49.8 to 55.5 Ib/sq in (3.5 to 3.9 kg/sq cm) 68.3 to 71.1 Ib/sq in (4.8 to 5.0 kg/sq cm) 37 to 51 Ib/sq in (2.6 to 3.6 kg/sq cm) 850 to 900 rev/min 3.5 % (N. America 1.5 to 2 %)

Torque wrench settings Carburettor type engine

Ib/ft

Nm

Carburettor mounting nuts

15

21

28 18

39 25

18

25

14

19

18 18 25

25 25 35

4 4 4

6 6 6

3

4

11

15

Exhaust manifold bolts: 1709 cc and 1854 cc

1985 cc Inlet manifold bolts: 1709 cc and 1854 cc 1985 cc

Fuel injection type engine Throttle valve housing Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold

Fuel injection (1975 on) - additional torque wrench settings Airflow sensor stop bracket screws 2 Airflow sensor counter-weight retaining screw Airflow sensor plate screw Fuel distributor screws ... Line pressure screw plug

ee 1 General description OOO The fuel system may be of carburettor or fuel injection type depending upon model and date of production. With carburettor models, a rear mounted fuel tank is used in conjunction with a mechanically-operated fuel pump (which runs off a

cam on the engine idler shaft) to supply a single Zenith-Stromberg

carburettor. The calibration of the carburettor may vary slightly according to the model and destined operating territory. Due to the efficiency of the engine design, emission control equipment is minimal and only on the latest cars supplied to North America with fuel injection is it necessary to have a proportional EGR

(exhaust gas recirculation) and Al (air injection) device installed. Where a fuel injection system is used, this is of Bosch type. An electric fuel pump supplies fuel to a mixture control unit. The latter

g

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

comprises an airflow sensor which measures the flow of air to the

engine and by mechanical

means controls the fuel distributor. The fuel

distributor meters the correct amount of fuel to the injection valves which in turn eject fuel into the inlet manifold.

2

Air cleaner (carburettor models) - servicing

1. The air cleaner is bolted to the carburettor inlet flange. On earlier models the intake spout of the cleaner body can be moved to ‘Winter’ or ‘Summer’ positions according to the ambient temperature. On later models a two-way valve is incorporated in the intake spout and this connects with a pipe from the area of the exhaust manifold. The valve should be set either to ‘Winter’ or ‘Summer’ position (photo). 2 At the intervals specified in ‘Routine Maintenance’ renew the paper type element. Access to the element is obtained by removing the air

cleaner cover (centre nut or spring retaining clips) and lifting out the element and wiping the interior of the casing clean. 3 In very dusty operating conditions, renew the element more frequently than specified. As an interim measure, the element can be tapped on a hard surface to remove adhering dust but on no account attempt to clean it by any other means.

3

Air cleaner (fuel injection) - servicing

1 On earlier models, the air cleaner is similar to that fitted to carburettor engines except that it does not have a movable spout or two position intake air valve. 2 On later models, renew the air cleaner element by removing the flexible bellows which are located between the airflow sensor and the

throttle valve housing. 3 Disconnect the return pipe from the fuel distributor. 4 Remove the bolts which retain the lower part of the airflow sensor to the air cleaner.

5 Raise the mixture control unit enough to be able to extract the air cleaner element. 6 Clean out the casing, install the new element and reconnect the dismantled components.

4

Fuel pump (mechanical) - description and servicing

1 The fuel pump is actuated by a rocker arm which is in contact with an eccentric cam on the engine idler shaft. The pump can be tested by disconnecting the outlet pipe and turning the engine over on the starter (coil lead disconnected)

when a good spurt of fuel should be ejected.

2 The pump on earlier models could be fully dismantled and repaired but the unit on later models is a sealed unit (apart from being able to clean the filter screen) and in the event of a fault developing, it must be renewed complete. 3 At the intervals specified in ‘Routine Maintenance’ unscrew the cover screw and remove the cover. 4 Carefully lift out the filter screen and wash it in fuel. On earlier pumps, clean out the pump body, on later pumps clean out the pump cover.

5

Refit the screen and cover making sure that the sealing gasket is in

good condition.

5

Fuel pump (mechanical) - removal and installation

1

Disconnect the fuel pipes from the pump and plug them.

2 Unscrew and remove the two pump flange securing bolts and withdraw the pump from the engine block (photo). 3 Installation is a reversal of removal but make sure that the underside of the pump rocker arm is in contact with the operating cam and use a new flange gasket.

6

Fuel pump (mechanical - early type) - overhaul

1

Remove the pump as previously described.

2 3

Remove the cover, filter screen and gasket. Scribe a mark across the edges of the pump flanges so that the two

halves of the pump can be refitted in their original relative positions.

Fig. 3.2 Late type air cleaner (fuel injection) (Sec. 3) 4 5

Extract the flange screws and separate the pump halves. Hold the lower half of the pump in the hand and depress the centre

of the diaphragm and twist it one quarter of a turn clockwise to disengage the diaphragm rod from the pump lever. Withdraw the diaphragm and rod and the spring. 6 No further dismantling is possible. The diaphragm assembly is supplied as a repair kit item and it must be renewed if it is split or distorted. 7 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

55

5.2 Removing mechanical type fuel pump

Fig. 3.3 Disposable type fuel pump (Sec. 4) 1

Cover

2

3

Filter screen

Gasket

7

Fuel tank - description, removal and installation

1 The fuel tank is mounted at the rear of the car and incorporates a fuel level transmitter.

2

As from chassis no. 99024298, the design of the fuel tank was

modified to allow internal expansion of the fuel. The expansion chamber is opened by a valve which is actuated by the installation of

the fuel tank filler cap (Fig. 3.5). 3 Models built for the North American market are equipped with a fuel evaporative control system which incorporates a charcoal canister. The canister absorbs fuel vapour from the tank, the vapour being removed from the charcoal when the engine is running and burned in

the engine combustion chambers (see Section 29). (Fig. 3.6) 4 To remove the tank, jack-up the rear end of the car and remove the drain plug and catch the fuel in a suitable container which can be sealed afterwards. 5 Remove the carpet from the floor of the luggage boot (or the floor

panel on Combi versions). 6

Remove the fuel level transmitter cover plate.

7 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal and then disconnect the leads from the tank transmitter unit. 8 Disconnect the filler hose and vent pipes from the fuel tank. 9 Oncars with carburettors, disconnect the fuel supply pipe from the tank. 10 On cars with fuel injection, disconnect the pressure and return fuel lines from the fuel accumulator and the tank (late models) or the flow and return and pressure regulator hoses from the tank (early models). 11 Unscrew and remove the fuel tank securing strap nuts and lower

and remove the tank. (Fig. 3.7) 12 The tank transmitter and the fuel pump (late fuel injection models) can be removed from the tank if necessary. When these components are refitted, make sure that their sealing rings are renewed. 13 Never attempt to repair a fuel tank by welding or soldering. This is a job best left to professionals as extended purging of the tank is necessary to make it safe before it can be worked upon. 14 Installation is a reversal of removal. TEEIESEEIEIEISEEEE REEIEIRInERREE EERE EERE TT

Fig. 3.4 Exploded view of early type fuel pump (Sec. 6) 1 2 3. 4 5

Cover Gasket Filter screen Upper body Diaphragm

Spring Lower body Rocker arm Primary lever SAND

8 Fuel level transmitter and gauge ES 1 Incorrect indication of the fuel level in the tank may be due to a fault in either the gauge or the transmitter. 2 The home mechanic can only effectively test these components by substituting new units. Before removing the original components, check the security of the connecting wiring and the earth leads and terminals. 3.

The transmitter is of float and resistance type and is accessible for

removal after withdrawing the small cover plate under the luggage compartment carpet or panel.

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

56

Without tank cap

|

4 5

3

(| ray

: Expansion space

Fig. 3.5 Fuel tank (later type) (Sec. 7) 1 Tank 2 Filler 3 and 4 vent tubes

: With tank cap on

5 6

Spring-loaded valve Vent hose

7

Filler cap

Fig. 3.6 Layout of fuel evaporative

control system (North America) (Sec. 7) Fuel pump Air cleaner

Carburettor Fuel tank Fuel lever

:

ll hii

9

transmitter Drain plug Vapour extraction hose AARWNHs ND Charcoal canister Sm

Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - slow-running adjustment

1 Asa basic setting, remove the air cleaner and hold the carburettor vacuum piston down with the finger. Now screw the jet adjusting screw upwards until the jet just touches the piston. Unscrew the jet adjusting screw 2% turns. 2 Start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. 3 Turn the throttle speed screw until the engine is running at between 700 and 800 rev/min. Check that there is a clearance between the fastidle screw and the fast-idle cam. 4 Turn the jet adjusting screw up until the mixture is weakened and the idling becomes rough. Now unscrew the jet adjusting screw (counting the number of turns) until the engine again starts to idle roughly as a result of a rich mixture. Turn the screw up to the mid-position between the weak and rich settings. 5 Readjust the throttle stop screw if necessary to achieve the specified

idling speed (see Specifications). 6 An alternative method of adjusting the slow-running is to use a device such as a ‘Colortune’ in accordance with the maker's instructions.

10 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) - 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines - slowrunning adjustment Fig. 3.7 Removing fuel tank retaining strap (Sec. 7)

1

This type of carburettor is precisely set and adjusted du ring

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

57

manufacture and has no external jet adjustment. It differs from the type 175 CD - 2S by having a temperature compensator to maintain a constant fuel-air mixture irrespective of the under-bonnet temperature. An overflow valve is also fitted to sustain combustion during deceleration and engine over-run. There is also an air screw for fine tuning and two vacuum pipe connections, one for the normal distributor vacuum advance and the other to retard the ignition when the throttle is closed during deceleration.

i of me

2

To adjust the slowrunning, have the engine at normal operating

temperature. It should have been warmed up from cold and the adjustment procedure carried out within a period of eight minutes from

the moment when the cooling system thermostat opens. This can be judged by holding the coolant hose on the discharge side of the thermostat housing. 3 Make sure that the air cleaner is set to the ‘Summer’ position. 4

Make sure that there is oi! in the carburettor damper.

5

Start the engine and set the throttle speed screw to give an idling

speed of between 800 and 850 rev/min. 6 7 CO be

8

Turn the air screw in or out to give the smoothest idle. \Itis recommended that a CO meter is now used to check that the emission is within the specified tolerance. Slight corrections may made if necessary by readjusting the air screw.

Failure to obtain the correct CO emission readings may be due toa

faulty temperature compensator.

11 Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - 1985 cc engine - slow-running adjustment

a ee a Fig. 3.8 Zenith - Stromberg 175 CD - 2S carburettor Jet adjuster Float chamber Vacuum chammber cover Fuel inlet Distributor vacuum pipe QAWYOx nozzle

6

Oil damper cap

7

Body

8 9 10

Fast idle cam Fast idle screw Throttle speed screw

1 The carburettor fitted to the 1985 cc engine is similar to the one used on the two smaller engines on cars destined for the North American market (see Section 10) except that a temperature compensator is not fitted. 2 \f the carburettor has been dismantled, first check that the plastic washer on the metering needle is flush with the underside of the vacuum piston. If adjustment is needed, release the grub screw and move the

cc engines Fig. 3.9 Zenith - Stromberg 175 CD - 2SE carburettor fitted to 1709 cc and 1854 Carburettor body Distributor vacuum pipe nozzle Air screw Non Overflow valve WW body screws

5

Overflow valve adjusting screw

Float chamber plug Float chamber

Temperature compensator Securing screws SAND

10 Fast-idle screw 11 Throttle speed screw 712 Vacuum chamber cover 73 Oil damper cap 14 Float chamber vent hole

15 Air channel to lower side of diaphragm 16 Air channel to temperature compensator 17 Choke assembly 18 Fast-idle cam 19 Choke cable connection

58

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems needle up, or down, as necessary . 3. With the vacuum chamber cover removed together with spring, piston and diaphragm, measure the distance between the jet bridge and

the jet. This should be between 0.081 and 0.097 in. (2.3 and 2.7 mm). Adjust if necessary by turning the jet adjusting screw.

4 Reassemble the vacuum piston, diaphragm and cover, start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. 5 Adjust the throttle speed screw to give the specified idling speed as

listed in ‘Specifications’. 6 Using either a CO meter or a device such as a ‘Colortune’ check the CO value or mixture strength. If the jet adjusting screw requires more

than % turn in either direction, the metering needle needs repositioning in the vacuum

piston.

EE —————————————————————————————————————— ————

12 Carburettor overflow valve - adjustment

ee ee ee eS 1

eee

An overflow valve is fitted to the 175 CD - 2SE carburettor fitted to

1709 cc and 1854 cc engines and to the 175 CD - 2S and 175 CD - 2SE fitted to the 1985 cc engine. 2 If the engine tends to idle too fast and all other settings are correct, the cause may be due to 3 On the smaller engine from the throttle spindle 4 Prise out the blanking

the overflow valve. carburettor, remove the flexible bellows driver disc. cap from the end of the overflow valve

adjusting screw and turn the adjusting screw anti-clockwise to its stop. If a hole has not been drilled in the driver disc to permit insertion of a screwdriver to adjust the valve, the driver disc should be removed and one

drilled. 5 Adjust the carburettor throttle speed screw to give an idling speed as specified for your particular model. Switch off the engine. 6 Now turn the overflow valve adjusting screw six complete turns

clockwise. Start the engine and increase the idling speed to 3000 rev/ min by rotating the driver disc. If the engine speed returns immediately

to normal idling then the valve is operating correctly. If this is not the case, give the screw one turn anticlockwise and repeat the test. 7 \f the engine still does not respond as specified, remove the valve, clean it and refit it using a new gasket. Any wear or damage will mean the renewal of the complete valve assembly. 8 On the larger engine carburettor, run the engine to normal operating temperature with the air cleaner intake in its correct seasonal position. 9 Turn the overflow valve adjustment screw afew turns anticlockwise to ensure that the valve is closed. 10 Check that the idling speed and mixture strength (CO level) are correct as previously described. 11 Turn the overflow valve adjustment screw clockwise until the engine

Blanking cap Adjusting screw Seal Cover Nut AAW

6 7 8 9 10

Spring Channel Diaphragm Valve Throttle valve plate

speed which will rise, levels off. This should be between rev/min.

1500 and 1800

12 Now turn the overflow valve anticlockwise until the valve just closes

and the engine resumes its normal idling speed. When this point is reached, turn the screw a further % to % of a turn anticlockwise. 13 Test the engine return to idling by increasing its speed to about 3000 rev/min and then releasing the accelerator. If this does not happen, turn the valve adjustment screw a further % to 1 turn anticlockwise. 14 Failure of the engine to respond to the pattern just described will

necessitate removing and cleaning or renewing the valve.

———— eeee

eee

13 Fast idle setting - all carburettors

_————— 1 2

ee

EE

SS

eee

eee

Check that the choke control is pushed fully in. Ensure that the throttle linkage is completely released (throttle

valve plate closed).

3 Release the locknut on the fast idle screw and adjust the screw to provide a gap between its head and the edge of the fast idle cam as specified according to model and carburettor type in the ‘Specifications’ Section.

eS 14 Carburettor - removal and installation

Fig. 3.12 Overflow valve (1709 cc 1854 cc engines) (Sec. 12) 7

Adjusting screw

2

Valve securing screws

———— 1

Remove the air cleaner and on later models, the pre-heater hose

(photo). 2

Disconnect the fuel pipe and distributor vacuum pipe from the

carburettor.

3

Disconnect the choke cable and the throttle linkage from the

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

59

| \

C)

ee

Re

Fig. 3.13 Overflow valve (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 12)

Pie Bic

14 3A Choke cable connection

at carburettor

14.3B Throttle control arrangement

carburettor (photos). tor from 4 Unscrew the four retaining nuts and remove the carburet the inlet manifold (photo). 5

Installation is a reversal of removal but always use a new flange

gasket.

(early

14.4 Removing the carburettor

non-emission control)

15 Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - overhaul 1

Remove

the carburettor

clean off any external dirt.

as described in the preceding Section and

60

Fig. 3.15 Exploded view of Zenith - Stromberg 175 CD - 2S carburettor (Sec. 15) 7 2

Damper cap Vacuum chamber cover

8 3

Metering needle ‘O’ring

3

Spring

10 Jet adjusting screw

17 Carrier

4 5 6 7

Washer Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm Vacuum piston

11 12 13 14

18 79 20 21

Jet retainer ‘O’ ring Float chamber Float

22 23 24 25 26 27

15 Fuel inlet valve 16 Body Choke valve plate Spindle Choke housing cover Fast idle cam

Washer Bush ‘O’ ring Guide bush Jet Throttle ciosure damper

10

ae Ne

13.

10 Washer

12 =

14

71 Bush

Fa i

12 “O’ ring 15

i 2-16 £17 3 tj

713 Guide bush

14 Spring 15 Jet 16 Jet retainer 17 and 18 ‘O’ rings 19 Adjusting screw

f 18 Fig. 3.18 Carburettor jet assembly

components Fig. 3.16 Carburettor diaphragm alignment to vacuum piston

Fig. 3.17 Correct installation of metering needle to carburettor piston

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

61

2 Unscrew the vacuum chamber cover (four screws) and extract the spring.

3 4

Carefully lift out the vacuum piston/diaphragm assembly. Release the grub screw and extract the metering needle from the base of the piston. 5 Remove the four retaining screws and separate the diaphragm and metal and plastic retainers from the vacuum

piston.

6

Remove the float chamber (six screws).

7

Prise out the float pivot pin from its clips and withdraw the float.

8 9

Unscrew the jet retainer/screw assembly. Unscrew and remove the fuel inlet needle valve and washer.

10 Unscrew and remove the choke mechanism (two screws). 11 Wash all parts in clean fuel or paraffin and examine for wear. Renew any components

as necessary.

12 Obtain a repair kit which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other renewable items. 13 Commence reassembly

by fitting the diaphragm to the vacuum piston so that its locating ‘pip’ engages in the cut-out in the rim of the piston.

14 Fit the metering needle into the vacuum piston so that the plastic washer on the needle is flush with the base of the piston. Make sure that the securing grub screw is tightened against the flat on the side of the

needle housing. 15 Install the vacuum

piston assembly into the carburettor body making

sure that the ‘pip’ on the outer edge of the flexible diaphragm engages in the cut-out in the body.

Fig. 3.20 Exploded view of Zenith-Stromberg 175 CD - 2SE carburettor (1709 cc and 1854 cc engines) (Sec. 16) 7

Damper cap

8

Metering needle

2 3 4 5 6

Vacuum chamber cover Spring Washer Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm

9 10 11 12 13

Float chamber plug ‘O’ ring Float chamber Float Fuel inlet valve

7

Vacuum piston

14 Body

15 Throttle spindle driver disc 16 Choke valve plate 17 Choke spindle

21 Temperature compensator valve 22 Bimetal spring

18 Choke housing cover

23 Cover

19 Fast idle cam 20 Temperature compensator

24 Overflow valve 25 Air screw

62

10) m8 Fig. 3.21 Exploded view of Zenith-Stromberg Damper cap Vacuum chamber cover

Spring Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm Vacuum piston DAKRWH»

7

Metering needle

8

‘O’ring

175 CD - 2SE carburettor (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 17)

9 Jet retainer 10 Jet adjusting screw

17 ‘O’ ring 12 Float chamber

73 Float 14 Fuel inlet valve

15 16 17 18

Body Carrier Choke assembly Washer

19 Bush

20 ’O’ ring 27 Bush

22 Spring 23 Jet 24 Overflow valve

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems 16 Install the vacuum chamber cover, making sure not to twist the diaphragm by turning the cover. 17 Assemble and screw in the jet assembly, using the new ‘O’ rings

63

3 Adjust the fast idle (Section 13) and after the carburettor has been refitted to the engine, adjust the slowrunning (Section 10) and the overflow valve (Section 12).

supplied in the repair kit.

18 Screw in the fuel inlet needle valve and washer, install the float and then check the float setting. To do this, invert the carburettor so that the floats rest on the fuel inlet valve under their own weight. Now measure the distance between the highest point of the float and the flange of the carburettor housing. This should be between 0.63 and

0.71 in. (16.0 and 18.0 mm). Adjustment can be made by bending the tongue which contacts the fuel inlet needle valve. (Fig. 3.19) 19 Install the float chamber, using a new gasket ahd refit the choke assembly . 20 Set the fast idle, as described in Section 13. 21 Set the jet to its basic position and then adjust the slow-running, as described in Section-9, after the unit has been refitted to the car.

17 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1985 cc engines - overhaul 1.

This carburettor which is fitted to the larger engined cars is

overhauled in a similar manner to the procedure described in Section 15, but the following differences must be noted. 2 An overflow valve is fitted. 3 The highest point of the float above the carburettor body flange is

to be set between 0.630 to 0.669 in. (16.0 to 17.0 mm). 4

The distance between the jet bridge and the jet to be set between

0.081 and 0.097 in. (2.3 and 2.7 mm). 5

The gap between the fast idle screw and the edge of the fast idle cam

to be set between 0.020 and 0.039 in. (0.5 and 1.0 mm). 6

16 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines - overhaul 1

When the carburettor has been refitted to the engine, adjust the

slowrunning (Section 11) and the overflow valve (Section 12).

The procedure is similar to that described in the preceding Section

but removal

of the additional

temperature compensator

and overflow

valve must be noted. (Fig. 3.20) 2 The highest point of the float should be 0.67 in. (17 mm) above the carburettor body flange.

18 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - operating principles 1 Fuel is drawn from the rear mounted fuel tank by an electric pump and having passed through a filter is forced into the fuel pressure line.

18 Fig. 3.22 Fuel injection system (up to and including 1974) (Sec. 18) Fuel tank Fuel pump Filter Pressure regulator Pressure sensor AAW

6 7 8

Inlet duct Cylinder head Injection valves

9 Fuel distribution pipes 10 Ignition distributor

17 Start valve 12 Throttle valve switch 13 Idling speed adjustment screw 14 Temperature sensor (air)

15 Temperature sensor

(coolant,

16 Auxiliary air regulator 17 Temperature switch 18 From starter terminal 19 Control unit

g

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Fuel pressure is regulated by a pressure regulator, excess fuel returning to the tank through a return line.

engine performance or idling quality deteriorate and are not the result

2

or overhaul.

The engine cylinders are supplied with air by four induction pipes

which are in turn connected to a common inlet duct. The pressure sensor and the distributor vacuum advance are connected to this duct.

When the engine is running, the entry of air into the duct is controlled by a throttle valve controlled by the accelerator pedal. When idling, air enters the duct through a bypass port.

3 Injection of fuel is controlled on a time basis which is computed by the special contacts within the ignition distributor. Variation in the period of fuel injection is arranged according to engine load and speed by the action of a control unit. 4

Provision is made for additional metered injections of fuel at cold

starting and on 1985 cc engines a richer mixture is injected at full

of other engine components (ignition, valves etc.) needing adjustment

Throttle valve adjustment 2 To remove any slackness from the throttle control cable on cars built up to and including 1971 models, first remove the air cleaner assembly and then adjust the locknuts on the outer cable. On no account alter the position of the support bracket. 3 On later cars, remove any cable slackness by moving the bracket,

having first released the bracket securing nuts. 4

The stop screw must then be adjusted so that the throttle valve

plate is open 0.002 in. (0.05 mm). This can be checked using a feeler gauge.

throttle conditions.

Throttle valve switch adjustment 5

The throttle valve switch should open when the throttle valve plate

19 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - maintenance

has opened 1° from its closed position.

1 Regularly inspect the security of all electrical leads and connecting hoses.

adjustment is best carried out using a buzzer or ohmmeter. Connect it between terminals ‘14’ and ‘17’ of the switch on 1709 cc or 1854 cc engines or between ‘47’ and ‘17’ on 1985 cc engines. Release the throttle valve switch screws and with the throttle valve plate in its

2 Every 12000 miles (19000 km), renew the fuel filter. To do this, remove the panel to the left of the spare wheel within the |uggage boot. 3

Release the three securing screws and pull the flap forward.

4 Clamp the fuel lines on each side of the filter and disconnect the filter by removing the hose clips. 5 Install the new filter making sure that the directional arrow on it Points towards the fuel pump.

6

The switch has graduations of 2° marked on index plates but any

normal released (closed) position, move the switch until the buzzer

sounds or the ohmmeter registers. Now open the throttle valve through 1°. As this is very difficult to establish check the opening of the throttle valve with a feeler blade. The gap should be about 0.004 in. (0.10 mm) instead of the fully released gap of half this amount (see paragraph 4). Move the switch until the buzzer just stops or the ohmrmeter ceases to register. Retighten the switch screws.

20 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - adjustments

Idling speed adjustment 1

These are not to be regarded as routine but are only required if the

Fig. 3.23 Fuel filter and pump (fuel injection systems up to 1974) (Sec. 19)

eae

7

A bypass control screw is provided on the venturi housing to adjust

Fig. 3.24 Throttle valve cable adjuster (fuel injection up to 1974)

(Sec. 20)

e

Fig. 3.25 Adjusting throttle stop screw (fuel injection up to 1974)

(Sec. 20)

Fig. 3.26 Throttle valve switch (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems the engine idling speed. Before carrying out any adjustment, have the engine at normal

operating temperature.

Release the locknut and turn

the screw in or out to provide an idling speed of between 800 and 850 rev/min (manual gearbox or automatic transmission in ‘N’ or ‘P’).

65

and if a new unit is installed it is recommended that it should be adjusted by your dealer. 4 The temperature sensor for inlet air is located just to the rear of the crankcase ventilation valve.

Mixture adjustment 8

First check that the throttle valve is correctly adjusted

paragraph 2) and that the engine is at normal

(see

operating temperature.

Use a CO meter and turn the knob on the control unit to give a maximum CO reading of 3.5% when the engine is at specified idling speed (800 to 850 rev/min).

21 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - location, removal and installation of main components 1 Although the testing of most components will require the use of special equipment, where a part is obviously faulty or it has been

diagnosed as unserviceable after reference to the chart in Section 30 or it has been tested and found so by your dealer, then it can be renewed

by observing the following operations. 2 The pressure sensor is located on the left-hand wheel arch within the engine compartment. Extreme care must be taken when removing and connecting the hose from and to the sensor that no dirt enters the

components. 3 The pressure regulator is |ocated just to the rear of the alternator. When removing it, plug the fuel lines immediately to prevent loss of fuel.

Fig. 3.27 Idling speed adjustment screw (fuel injection up te 1974)

(Sec. 20)

Correct setting of the pressure regulator is essential to fuel economy

Fig. 3.28 Mixture adjustment screw (fuel injection up to 1974)

(Sec. 20)

Fig. 3.30 Location of pressure regulator (fuel injection up to 1974)

(Sec. 21)

Fig. 3.29 Location of pressure sensor (fuel injection up to 1974)

(Sec. 21)

Fig. 3.31 Location of temperature sensor (air) - fuel injection up to 1974 (Sec. 21)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

66

5 The temperature sensor for coolant is located in the thermostat housing adjacent to the auxiliary air regulator and the water temperature

switch. Always use new sealing washers when refitting these components. 6 The start valve is located on the inlet manifold between the fuel injectors. To remove an injector, first withdraw the fuel pipe from all the injectors and the start valve. Pull the electrical plug from the injector and unscrew the fuel line clip adjacent to the auxiliary air regulator. Unbolt and remove the injector taking great care not to allow

dirt to enter the manifold. 7 When refitting an injector, push the large rubber ring onto it and the smaller ring onto the injector body. Install the injector into its holder and align the assembly so that the electrical connector is towards the engine. Tighten the injector securing screws evenly.

22 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - operating principles 1 Fuel is drawn from the rear mounted fuel tank by an electric pump which is mounted within the fuel tank. The pump incorporates a

pressure relief valve and a non-return valve in its outlet to prevent

Fig. 3.32 Location of temperature sensor (coolant), water temperature switch and auxiliary air regulator - fuel injection up to 1974 (Sec. 21)

1

pressure drop when the pump is switched off. 2 A fuel accumulator is mounted in the fuel line from the pump,

its

purpose being (i) to maintain system pressure and prevent fuel Temperature switch

2

Temperature sensor

3

Auxiliary air regulator

vaporising and so ensure an easy start when the engine is warm, (ii) to absorb pressure fluctuations during normal

operation,

(iii) to delay

system pressure rise at cold starting to prevent too much fuel being injected into the engine cylinders.

3 A fuel line filter is fitted in the line. 4 Fuel is distributed to the engine cylinders by means of a distributor unit. This unit meters fuel through injector valves and is controlled by a pressure regulator valve which in turn is actuated by a lever attached to the airflow sensor plate. 5 The airflow sensor device comprises an air venturi tube in which an

air flow sensor plate moves. The plate is connected through a lever to the fuel distributor and automatically controls the quantity of fuel injected according to the engine speed and load.

6

The remaining components of the system are refinements and include

a warm-up regulator, a cold start valve, a line pressure regulator and an auxiliary air valve to compensate for losses due to condensation in the inlet manifold and combustion chambers at cold starting.

23 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - maintenance

1 Fig. 3.33 Location of start valve (1) and fuel injectors (2) - fuel

injection system up to 1974 (Sec. 21)

Periodically check the security of all leads and connecting hoses

within the system.

2

Every 12000 miles (19000 km), renew the fuel filter in a similar

manner to that described in Section 19, taking great care not to allow dirt to enter the system.

24 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - adjustments 1 These adjustments are not to be regarded as routine but are only required if engine performance or idling quality deteriorate and are not the result of other engine components (ignition, valves etc.) needing adjustment or overhaul.

Throttle valve adjustment 2

This is similar to the method described in Section 20, Paragraph

2.

/dling speed adjustment 3 This is similar to the method described in Section 20, pa ragraph 7. The correct idling speed is between 850 and 900 rev/min.

Mixture adjustment 4

Fig. 3.34 Fuel filter (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 23)

With the engine at normal operating temperature and the idling

speed correctly set, remove the rubber plug from between

the fuel

distributor and the flexible bellows. 5

Insert an Allen key and connect a CO meter to the engine exhaust.

Adjust the CO value by turning the Allen key clockwise (richer) or

anticlockwise (weaker) until the maximum reading is 3.5%.

oe

Eo

Se

, Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems as an” el a 9

67

Unscrew the injection valves from the inlet manifold (leaving the

25 Fuel injection system {1975 on) - testing components

fuel lines connected) and place them in a clean container.

1 The following components can be tested without the use of special equipment. Renewal is described in the next Section.

switch on the ignition. The fuel pump will start to operate. 11 Raise the lever in the airflow sensor and observe the fuel spray from the injection nozzles. If the spray is restricted or poorly defined, the valves should be removed for cleaning by your dealer or renewed. 12 Switch off the ignition and wipe the ends of the injection valve nozzles dry. Lift the airflow sensor lever and check the nozzles for

10 Disconnect the safety circuit connector at the airflow sensor and

Fuel pump 2 Remove the cover plate within the luggage boot or compartment and using a voltmeter measure the voltage between the positive and negative terminals of the fuel pump when it is operating. The voltage should not be below 11.5V otherwise it must be renewed. 3 Fuel pump discharge can be checked by disconnecting the return fuel line and having first disconnected the safety circuit connection at the airflow sensor, switch on the ignition and catch the fuel discharged from the return line during a period of 30 seconds. This should be

approximately 750 ml (1.31 }mp. pints).

Auxiliary air valve 4 Make sure that the engine is cold and that the safety circuit connection at the airflow sensor is disconnected. 5 Using a torch and mirror, check that there is an opening (oval in

shape) within the valve. Switch on the ignition and observe that the Opening closes after a period of about five minutes.

leakage of fuel. If a drop of fuel forms in under fifteen seconds, then the injection valves must be cleaned or renewed.

Cold start valve 13 Disconnect the lead from the cold start valve and unscrew it from the throttle valve housing. Do not disconnect the fuel line. 14 Connect two leads between the cold start valve terminals and a main beam terminal of one of the headlamps and earth. 15 Disconnect the safety circuit connector at the airflow sensor and switch on the ignition. The fuel pump will operate. Place the cold start valve in a container and have an assistant switch the headlamps to main beam for a period not exceeding thirty seconds. During this time, fuel should spray out of the cold start valve.

16 With the headlamps switched off but the ignition still switched on

Warm-up regulator

(fuel pumpoperating) dry the cold start valve nozzle and check that no

6

fuel leaks from the valve. If it does, renew the valve.

Disconnect the lead from the warm-up regulator and bridge the

contacts in the lead plug with a voltmeter.

Thermo-time switch

7 Disconnect the safety circuit at the airflow sensor and switch on the ignition. If the voltage recorded is below 11.5, renew the regulator.

17 When the engine temperature is below 95°F (35°C) current flows

Fuel injection valves

while the starter motor is actuated. To check that the switch closes when the starter is actuated, connect a test-lamp in series across the contacts of the connector plug of the cold start valve.

8

Remove

the flexible bellows from the airflow sensor.

Fig. 3.35 Adjusting mixture (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 24)

Fig. 3.37 Checking opening of auxiliary air valve (fuel injection 1975

on) (Sec. 25)

Fig. 3.36 Disconnecting safety circuit at air flow sensor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 25)

Fig. 3.38 Testing operation of cold start valve (fuel injection 1975 on)

(Sec. 25)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

68

26 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - location, removal and installation of main components

1 Although the testing of some of the following components will require the use of special equipment, where a part is obviously faulty or it has been diagnosed as unserviceable by yourself or your dealer,

then it should be renewed as described in the following paragraphs. 2 The fuel pump is integral with the fuel tank and it can be removed after withdrawing the cover plate in the luggage boot or compartment and disconnecting leads to the fuel line from it. Using a sui table lever unscrew it (bayonet fitting). 3 Release the clips and remove the splash guard and mounting from the pump.

Fig. 3.40 Components of the fuel pump (fuel injection 1975 on)

(Sec. 26) 7

Fig. 3.39 Removing the fuei pump (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Bayonet type holder

Sasi!

Sel

3

Sealed pump unit

Ast

Sad

8.82''/224 mm

Fig. 3.42 Splash guard to fuel pump assembly diagram (fuel injection

system 1975 on) (Sec. 26) Fig. 3.41 Fuel pump to tank installation diagram (fuel injection 1975 on) A wide tongue of holder, B front of car, C splash guard indent (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.44 Removing flexible bellows from throttle valve housing (fuel

injection system

> Fig. 3.43 Location of fuel accumulator (fuel injection system 1975 on)

(Sec. 26)

1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

69

sess

4

When reassembling the splash guard to the pump and the pump to

ss

13 The airflow sensor can be dismantled if the complete mixture control

the mounting, make sure that the parts take up the attitude shown in

unit is first removed from the engine and the fuel distributor detached

the diagram. (Fig. 3.41)

from it.

5 Make sure that the height of the splash guard is also as illustrated in the diagram. (Fig. 3.42) 6 Install the pump using a new sealing gasket and reconnect the leads

14 Remove the lower plastic section from the airflow sensor and extract the two stop bracket mounting screws. Remove the bracket, spring, insulation and connectors. 15 Extract the retaining screws and remove the sensor plate. 16 Extract the circlips from the lever seating and remove the shims, seals, spring and bails. 17 Remove the counter-weight screw and press out the pivot. 18 Withdraw the lever, counter-weight and adjustment arm.

and fuel line to it.

7 The fuel accumulator is \located on the side of the fuel tank. Removal ts carried out by disconnecting the fuel lines from it and

pulling it from its bracket. Make sure that when installing the new accumulator that the fuel lines are correctly connected (fuel pump line nearest the edge of the accumulator).

19 Reassemble the stop bracket in the reverse order to dismantling.

8

Tighten the screws only to 4 |b/ft (6 Nm).

The mixture control unit is mounted on the air cleaner and

comprises a fue/ distributor and the airflow sensor.

20 Fit the counter-weight to the lever tightening the screw only

9

fingertight. Place the adjustment arm in the lever so that the socket

To remove the unit, disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel

distributor and disconnect the lines to the injection valves then the control pressure line.

headed screw on the arm is visible.

10 Remove the flexible bellows which run between the airflow sensor and the throttle valve housing. 11 Remove the retaining bolts and lift the mixture control unit from the air cleaner. If the fuel distributor is to be separated from the

airflow sensor, take care that the control plunger does not fall out. Do not handle the plunger but if this is unavoidable, clean it before installation with fuel. When

refitting the fuel distributor (which is a

sealed unit and must be renewed complete if faulty), check that the ‘O’ ring seal is in position and tighten its three retaining bolts no tighter

than 3 |b/ft (4 Nm). 12 The line pressure regulator is screwed into the fuel distributor and should not be dismantled unless absolutely essential. Pressure adjustment is carried out by varying the thickness of the shims on the end of the spring.

a HPTbi

F

g. 3.45 Removing mixture control unit (fuel injection system 1975 on)

(Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.46 Separating fuel distributor from air flow sensor (fuel injection

1975 on) (Sec. 26)

sien

as

1

4

aes

OO 5

6

Fig. 3.47 Exploded view of the line pressure regulator, removed from

fuel distributor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) TP 2

ROering, Piston

3 4

Spring Shims

5 6

Copper washer Plug

Fig. 3.48 Airflow sensor stop bracket (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) peg

Wire | J paren

5

Contact

Fig. 3.49 Installing adjustment arm in lever of airflow sensor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

70 ———————————————————

ee

21 Apply Silicone grease to both bearings and install the lever/arm assembly in the airflow sensor housing and insert the pivot. 22 Apply grease to the balls and fit them together with the spring, seals, shims and circlips. The spring goes on the side which has the longer bearing seat and the circlips should have their sharp edges facing outwards. 23 Centre the sensor plate in the air venturi and then centre the lever

so that the threaded holes in both components are in alignment with each other.

rw

26 Now set the position of the adjustment arm. To do this, use a depth

gauge and measure the distance between the face with which the fuel distributor mates and the needle bearing. This should be between 0.71

and 0.75 in. (18 to 19 mm), if not turn the mixture control screw using an Allen key. 27 With the mixture control unit (comprising the fuel distributor and airflow sensor) installed to the engine, the mixture should be checked as described in Section 24, paragraph 4.

then fit the sensor plate screw and tighten it to a similar torque. Check that the lever can be moved without binding. 25 Adjust the rest position of the sensor plate by bending the wire

28 Fuel injuction valves must be removed only after cleaning surrounding dirt. Disconnect the fuel line using two spanners the valve turning. 29 The warm-up regulator is |\ocated adjacent to the ignition Disconnect fuel lines and electrical leads from it and remove

loop on the stop bracket underneath the airflow sensor.

30 The auxiliary air valve is located at the base of the ignition

24 Tighten the counter-weight screw to a torque of 4 |b/ft (6 Nm) and

away any to prevent

distributor. it.

2 ae

Fig. 3.50 Assembling airflow sensor housing (fuel injection 1975 on)

(Sec. 26) 1 2

Circlip Shim

3 4

Seal Spring

5

Fig. 3.51 Tightening airflow sensor counterweight screw (fuel injection

1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Ball

| Fig. 3.53 Measuring position of airflow sensor adjustment arm (fuel

injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.52 Tightening airflow sensor plate screw (fuel injection 1975 on)

(Sec. 26)

_

*,

Ss

&%

\

saeet ‘

. ‘

Fig. 3.54 Disconnecting fuel line from injector (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.55 Removing warm

up regulator (fuel injection 1975 on)

(Sec. 26)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

71

distributor. It can be removed after disconnecting hoses and electrical leads and withdrawing its securing screws.

27 Manifolds and exhaust system 1 The inlet and exhaust manifolds can be removed and refitted with the engine in the car. The cooling system will have to be drained before the inlet manifold can be removed. Always use new gaskets when refitting and tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. 2 The exhaust system is of three section type and varies slightly in design according to date of production and model. 3 The centre and rear mountings are of flexible type.

4 Fig) 3.56 Removeng auxiliary alr valve (fuelinjection (Sec. 26)

1975 on)

Examination of the exhaust pipe and silencers at regular intervals is

worthwhile as small defects may be repairable when, if left they will almost certainly require renewal of one of the sections of the system. Also, any leaks, apart from the noise factor, may cause poisonous exhaust gases to get inside the car which can be unpleasant, to say the

least, even in mild concentrations.

Fig. 3.58 Typical exhaust system (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 27)

Prolonged inhalation could cause

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

72

sickness and giddiness. 5 As the sleeve connections and clamps are usually very difficult to separate it is quicker and easier in the long run to remove the complete system from the car when

renewing a section. It can be expensive if

another section is damaged when trying to separate a bad section from it. 6 To remove the system first remove the bolts holding the tail pipe bracket to the body. Support the rear silencer on something to prevent

cracking or kinking the pipes elsewhere. 7 Disconnect the centre mounting. 8 Disconnect the manifold to downpipe connecting flange and then withdraw the complete exhaust system from below and out to the rear of the vehicle. If necessary, jack up the rear of the vehicle to provide more clearance.

9 When separating the damaged section to be removed cut away the damaged part from the adjoining good section rather than risk damaging the latter. 10 If small repairs are being carried out it is best, if possible, not to try and pull the sections apart.

11 Refitting should be carried out after connecting the two sections together. De-burr and grease the connecting socket and make sure that the clamp is in good condition and slipped over the front pipe but do not tighten it at this stage. 12 Connect the system to the manifold and connect the rear support strap. Now adjust the attitude of the silencer. 13 Tighten the pipe clamps, the manifold clamp nuts and the rear suspension strap bolts. Check that the exhaust system will not knock against any part of the vehicle when deflected slightly in a sideways or

Fig. 3.59 Accelerator linkage (up to and including 1971) (Sec. 28)

upwards direction. we,

28 Accelerator linkage 1 Operation of the throttle is by means of a pendant type pedal and a cable. The design of the components differs slightly according to date of production and model.

2

=

Dips,

.

The inner cable is attached to the accelerator pedal rod by a locking

pin and to the carburettor spindle driver (or throttle valve lever - fuel

injection) by aclip. 3 The outer cable is provided with locknuts at its support bracket and it can be adjusted to remove slack from the inner cable.

29 Fuel evaporative emission controi system - maintenance 1 Regularly inspect the security of the system hoses. 2 On models built up until 1974, remove the filter screen located at the base of the charcoal canister every 6000 miles (9600 km) and clean it.

3 On later models routine cleaning is not required but the charcoal canister should be renewed every 30000 miles (48000 km). Fig. 3.60 Accelerator linkage (after 1971) (Sec. 28) 30 Exhaust emission control systems - description 1

When correctly tuned and adjusted, the engines fitted in SAAB

99

models meet the anti-poliution regulations of most countries with the exception of North America. 2 As from 1975, fuel injection models (1985 cc) destined for operation in that territory are equipped with the following systems:

ipo an o>

&

eS)

Air flow sensor

Deceleration Valve (all models) EGR - on/off System (automatic transmission only)

EGR Preportional System (California only) Manifold Air Injection System (California only)

ee

i

Charcoal WwW

Reference should also be made to the Crankcase Ventilation

System (Chapter 1) and to the Fuel Evaporative Control System (Sections 7 and 29, of this Chapter), both of which must be considered

canister cleaner

as vital parts of the overall anti-pollution scheme.

4

The Deceleration

deceleration,

Valve is located in the throttle plate. During

the valve opens to admit additional

air into the engine.

The extra volume of air dilutes the rich mixture which occurs during deceleration and therefore reduces the quantity of noxious fumes emitted from the exhaust system. 5 The EGR on/off System is a system of exhaust gas recirculation

Fuel tank -

Fig. 3.61 Fuel evaporative emission control system (Sec. 29)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

73

based upon engine coolant temperature and the vacuum conditions within the throttle valve housing. The arrangement reduces the formation of nitrogen oxides which are produced during the highest temperature period of the combustion cycle by the introduction of a

4 After adjustment, re-test the valve and then tighten the locknut and refit the flexible bellows.

controlled volume of inert (exhaust) gas.

32 EGR Systems - maintenance

6 The EGR Proportional System is also a system of exhaust gas recirculation but is continuous in operation, the injected volume of inert gas being controlled by monitoring devices which respond to the engine load conditions. 7 The Manifold Air Injection System comprises a belt-driven air pump

1 Every 15000 miles (24000 km), remove the throttle valve housing, the exhaust gas recirculation crosspipe and valve.

and non-return valve with the necessary injection tubes and interconnecting hoses. The purpose of the system is to inject a controlled volume of air into the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes in order to create afterburning which will further reduce the quantity of noxious gases present which result from normal combustion processes.

31 Deceleration valve - testing and adjustment

1

Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and

using a tachometer, adjust the idling speed to 875 rev/min. 2 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rev/min and then release the throttle. The time taken for the engine to resume its idling speed should be between four and five seconds. 3 If the time taken is incorrect, remove the flexible bellows which are located between the airflow sensor and the throttle valve housing. Release the locknut on the deceleration valve screw and turn the screw

seconds in time Deceleration

the number of turns indicated on the graph. For example if the time

taken for the engine to resume idling speed from 3000 rev/min was 3 seconds, then at the point of intersection of the 3 second line and the

curve, the number of turns (1 1/3) which the valve screw must be turned clockwise can be read off. (Fig. 3.62) Exhaust manifold

3 Number of turns of adjustment screw CLOCKWISE

PVS valve

Number of turns of adjustment screw ANTICLOCKWISE

Fig. 3.62 Adjustment graph for deceleration valve (Sec. 31) PVS valve EGR valve

Vacuum signal switch

EGR

EGR crosspipe

crosspipe

Venturi connection

Amplifier

Fig. 3.63 EGR on/off system (Sec. 32) ‘ ss

Fig. 3.64 EGR proportional system (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.65 Removing EGR crosspipe (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.66 Removing EGR valve (Sec. 32)

Vacuum reservoir

74 2

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems Clean the calibrated hole at the exhaust manifold using a twist drill.

For the EGR on/off System the drill diameter should be 0.16 in. (4 mm) and for the EGR Proportional System, 0.39 in. (10 mm). 3 Clean out the crosspipe using a suitable solvent or if heavy deposits are found, use a rotary wire brush follawed by compressed air.

4 Clean the inlet and outlet of the EGR valve again using a rotary wire brush followed by solvent and taking care not to damage the valve stem. The hole in the inlet manifold should be cleaned by using a twist

drill of 0.39 in. (10 mm) diameter. 5

Refit the components, using a new gasket on the EGR valve and the

throttle valve housing.

6 7

Start the engine and listen for leaks. Reset the EGR counter for the warning lamp by removing the

blanking panel from the left-hand side below the instrument panel and withdrawing the cover from the counter, the latter being located at

Fig. 3.67 Cleaning calibrated hole in exhaust manifold (EGR system)

(Sec. 32)

E E re) = io 2 ol

6.93” (176 mm)

Fig. 3.72 Air injection tube installation template (Sec. 33)

Fig. 3.73 Correct alignment of air injection tubes on exhaust manifold

(Sec. 33)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

75

ee

ey

the rear of the speedometer. 8 With the counter cover removed, push the reset button. Refit the

3 Thoroughly clean the pulley including the recess for the centrifugal type cleaner.

cover and the blanking panel.

4

Refit the pulley and drivebelt and adjust the belt to a tension which

permits % in. (12.7 mm) total deflection at the centre of the longest

run of the belt. 5 Disconnect the air inlet pipe and inspect the non-return valve. Suck or blow the valve to check its operation and then reconnect the air inlet pipe and check all other hose connections.

eee 33 Manifold air injection system - maintenance ee . ; ;

u At regular intervals, remove the air pump drivebelt.

2

Extract the three pulley retaining screws and lift the pulley from

the air pump.

6

Should the air injection tubes have to be renewed, a template must

be made in accordance with the diagram so that the new tubes can be fitted to the exhaust manifold in their correct attitude. (Fig. 3.72).

34 Fault diagnosis - carburettor type fuel system

ee

ee

Ee

ee

Symptom

ee

ee

ee

Se

ee

ee

Reason/s

SS ee ee a ee Fuel consumption excessive

ee

ee

eee

ee

Air cleaner choked and dirty giving rich mixture. Fuel leaking from carburettor fuel pump or fuel lines. Float chambers flooding. Generally worn carburettor. Distributor condenser faulty Balance weights or vacuum advance mechanism in distributor faulty.

Carburettor incorrectly adjusted, mixture too rich. Idling speed too high. Contact breaker gap incorrect. Valve clearances incorrect. Incorrectly set spark plugs. Tyres under-inflated. Wrong spark plugs fitted. Brakes dragging. Emission control system faulty.

Insufficient fuel delivery or weak mixture due to air leaks

Partially clogged filters in pump and carburettor. Incorrectly seating valves in fuel pump. Fuel pump diaphragm leaking or damaged. Gasket in fuel pump damaged. Fuel pump valves sticking due to fuel gumming. Too little fuel in fuel tank (prevalent when climbing

steep hills). Union joints on pipe connections loose. Split in fuel pipe on suction side of fuel pump. Inlet manifold to block or inlet manifold to carburettor gaskets leaking. Fuel tank relief valve stuck closed.

35 Fault diagnosis - fuel injection system

Symptom

Reason/s

Engine will not start (fuel pump not working)

Fuse blown. Faulty electrical connections to pump. Main pump relay not operating.

Engine will not start (fuel pump running)

Pressure sensor leads faulty. Temperature sensor (coolant) leads faulty. Defective pressure regulator.

Engine starts cold but stalls

Engine cuts out after misfiring at normal

Faulty (fuel injection) control contacts within distributor Pressure sensor defective. roadspeeds

Dirty (fuel injection) contacts within distributor.

Lack of fuel pressure. Loose electrical plug connector. Engine runs irregularly (white interior to exhaust tailpipe)

Insecure connection Injector sticking.

to injector.

ee

76

Symptom Lack of power

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Reason/s Low fuel pressure. Faulty pressure sensor.

Throttle valve incorrectly adjusted. Excessive fuel consumption

Incorrectly adjusted throttle valve switch. Incorrect fuel pressure.

Sensors or control unit faulty. Engine ‘hunts’ at idling

Leaking hose between auxiliary air regulator and inlet manifold. Throttle valve plate not closing correctly.

Engine misfires during acceleration

Throttle valve switch faulty or plug incorrectly connected to it.

High idling speed cannot be reduced

System teaking air. Leaking seals under injector.

36 Fault diagnosis - EGR system

Symptom

Reason/s

Poor idling or will not idle at all

EGR valve stuck open. Faulty vacuum signal switch (proportional system).

Engine runs erratically or accelerates slowly

Faulty EGR valve (proportional system). Incorrect residual pressure from amplifier (proportional system).

Poor engine response when engine cold

Faulty PVS valve (EGR proportional system).

Excessive exhaust gas CO emission

EGR valve stuck. Vacuum signal switch faulty. Incorrect residual pressure from amplifier (proportional system) or too high a signal. Incorrect calibrated EGR valve.

Chapter 4 Ignition system Refer toSeles 13 for information and specifications related to later models Contents

The coil Condenser (capacitor) - emmovels testing and conning Contact breaker - adjustment Contact breaker points - removal and Ae ‘

Distributor (AC Delco - engines with carburettor)- overhaul Distributor (AC Delco- engines with carb. N. America)-

overhaul Distributor (Bosch - engines ath fuel iniection up i, 1975) -

11

overhaul

4 2 3

Distributor (Bosch - eaves with earbultettoricor fuel injector 1975 on)- overhaul 303 Distributor - removal and installation .

6

General description

3

Ignition timing Spark plugs and HT leads

10 12

Specifications —

System type

Battery, coil, idler shaft driven distributor with mechanical and vacuum

Distributor application 1969 Standard (carburettor)

1971/74 N. America (1709 cc and 1854 cc 1971/74 N. America (1985 cc carburettor) 1971/74 Fuel injection (1709 cc and 1854 1971/74 Fuel injection (1985 cc) 1975 on Carburettor engine (1985 cc) ACroamTmmMovOWyYD 1975 on Fuel injection engine (1985cc)

advance.

AC Delco 1953500 AC Delco 7953820 AC Delco 7953870 AC Deico 7953977 AC Delco 7953871 AC Delco 7992196 Bosch 0231163007 Bosch 0231163025 Bosch (JFU4) 0231170115 Bosch (JFU4) 0231170122

1969/70 N. America (carburettor) 1970 Standard (carburettor) 1971/74 Standard (carburettor) Carsore dion

... cc)

se

Specifications

= ype

Borg and Beck 8 in (203.2 mm) dia. Diaphragm spring. Hydraulic actuator.

Release bearing type ...

Sealed ball.

Torque wrench settings

Pressure plate cover to flywheel

1

General description Major components comprise a pressure plate and cover assembly,

Ib/ft

Nm

20

28

Y

>

diaphragm spring and a driven plate (friction disc) which incorporates torsion coil springs to cushion rotational shock when the drive is taken up. The clutch release bearing is of sealed bal! type and clutch actuation is hydraulic. Depressing the clutch pedal moves the piston in the master cylinder forwards, so forcing hydraulic fluid through the clutch hydraulic pipe to the slave cylinder. The piston in the slave cylinder moves forward on the entry of the fluid and actuates the clutch release arm by means of a short pushrod.

| ‘Sts ARAAALEr

ASNy Re

N

The release arm pushes the release bearing forwards to bear against the release plate, so moving the centre of the diaphragm spring inwards.

Pressure plate 5 SaaS

The spring is sandwiched between two annular rings which act as fulcrum points. As the centre of the spring is pushed in, the outside of the spring is pushed out, so moving the pressure plate backwards and disengaging the pressure plate from the clutch disc. When the clutch pedal is released the diaphragm spring forces the

Se ee a

Ft gAD TE) a

Pressure plate cover Diaphragm spring Fulcrum rings Clutch release bearing HAAWNY™~ QD ‘O’ ring seals

pressure plate into contact with the high friction linings on the clutch disc and at the same time pushes the clutch disc a fraction of an inch

forwards on its splines so engaging the clutch disc with the flywheel. The clutch disc is now firmly sandwiched between the pressure plate and the flywheel so the drive is taken up. Provision is made for adjustment of the clutch free movement.

2

Clutch - adjustment

1

Itis important that the clutch free-movement is checked and

| Awe

adjusted at the intervals specified in the Routine Maintenance Section of this manual. 2 Disconnect the release lever return spring and measure the freemovement of the lever using gentle finger pressure. This should be

between 0.098 and 0.138 in. (2.5 and 3.5 mm). 3

If the clearance is incorrect, release the locknut on the end of the

adjusting screw and turn the screw in or out as necessary. Retighten

the locknut and reconnect the return spring.

Fig. 5.1 Sectional view of clutch mechanism

et

fwW-

Chapter 5/Clutch

87

Fig. 5.3 Exploded view of the master

cylinder (all RHD cars and LHD up

until 1975) (Sec. 3)

7

VA

Reservoir Spring Spring retainer Cup seal Dished washer Piston Seal Circlip Flexible dust excluding WHOANAAARWH™ boot 10 Pushrod 71 Clevis pin

SNAnAN

RUCICICAVAV CASULA

Fig. 5.2 Clutch adjustment diagram (Sec. 2) 7 2 3)

4

6)

3

Adjusting screw Locknut Clutch release lever Hydraulic slave cylinder Free movement

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the slave cylinder and by depressing the clutch pedal expel the fluid from the hydraulic system into a container. 2 Disconnect the pushrod from the clutch pedal arm by withdrawing

the split pin and clevis pin. 3 Remove the securing screws and lift the master cylinder from its mounting. 4 Onleft-hand drive cars built after 1975 the master cylinder for the clutch is located underneath the brake vacuum servo unit. The fluid reservoir is remotely sited and is combined with the brake fluid reservoir although the two fluids are kept separately in the reservoir. A hose supplies fluid from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder. 5 Remove all external dirt and peel back the flexible boot and extract the circlip.

6

Withdraw the pushrod and the piston assembly.

7

At this stage examine the surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore.

If scoring or ‘bright’ wear areas are visible, the complete master cylinder must be renewed. 8 The internal components of the earlier and later master cylinders

differ in design and are not interchangeable. 9 Note particularly the location and orientation of the dished washer which goes between the cup seal and the end face of the piston. 10 If the piston and cylinder surfaces are unmarked, discard all seals and obtain a repair kit. 11 Fit the new seals using the fingers only to manipulate them into position. 12 Reassemble the components, dipping them in clean hydraulic fluid before installing them into the cylinder. 13 Refit the master cylinder, fill the reservoir with clean hydraulic fluid and bleed the system as described in Section 5. 14 Never use anything except hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit when cleaning or overhauling the internal components of the clutch hydraulic system.

AAnnanes VV VPP T PERE

2

(

+

3 4

—piad ges ei

5

6

Fig. 5.4 Exploded view of the master cylinder (LHD cars after 1975)

(Sec. 3) 1

Body

4

Dished washer

2 3

Spring and seat Cup seal

5 6

Piston/seal assembly Pushrod assembly

GELS

EETE TS SG Laly CI i Ea ay

Ws

\

GPOMIEDEDETOIELLEDERELL ED Fig. 5.5 Location of dished washer in clutch master cylinder (Sec. 3)

88 Chapter 5/Clutch ES tS

eee

e EEE e SS 4

Slave cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder and plug the line. 2 Disconnect the release lever return spring. 3 Unbolt the slave cylinder and remove it and then clean away all external dirt. 4 Peel back the flexible boot and withdraw the pushrod. 5 Extract the circlip and withdraw the piston assembly

6 At this stage, examine the surfaces of piston and cylinder bore. If there is any sign of scoring or ‘bright’ wear areas, renew the cylinder complete. 7 \f the piston and cylinder surfaces are unmarked, obtain a repair kit and then discard the old seals and refit the new ones using the fingers only to manipulate them into position. 8 Dip the piston assembly in clean hydraulic fluid before installing it into the cylinder. 9 Never use anything except clean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit when cleaning or overhauling the internal components of the clutch hydraulic system. 10 Fit the circlip, pushrod and flexible boot and refit the cylinder to

its mounting. Reconnect the hydraulic line (photo). 11 Bleed the system as described in the next Section and check the

free-movement (Section 2). 5

Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding

Clutch pedal - removal and refitting

1 The clutch pedal operates on a common cross-shaft with the brake pedal. 2 To remove it, extract the split pin and clevis pin which secure the master cylinder pushrod to the arm of the clutch pedal.

3 4

Disconnect the clutch pedal return spring. Extract the self-locking nut from the end of the cross-shaft and then

push the shaft to the right-hand side and remove the pedal assembly. 5 The shaft bushes are self-lubricating but if new ones are fitted, apply a little grease to the cross-shaft before reassembling. EEE

7

Clutch - removal

1 Remove the bonnet. 2 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal. 3 Drain the cooling system by opening the radiator drain plug. 4 Disconnect the leads from the radiator fan motor and thermostatic switch. 5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator. 6 On models built after 1972, disconnect the air cleaner cold air intake hose. 7 On models built after 1975, disconnect the leads from the ignition coil, oil pressure and water temperature switches and the headlamp lens wiper motor. 8 Remove the grille, front panel and radiator, according to type (see

Chapter 2, Sections 7 or 8).

1 The need for bleeding the cylinders and fluid lines arises when air gets into them. Air gets in whenever a joint or seal leaks or part has to be dismantled. Bleeding is simply the process of venting the air out again. 2 Bleeding can only be carried out successfully on this car if the hydraulic system is pressurised. SAAB recommend the use of a cooling system pressure tester; this is simply a hand pump with an adaptor enabling it to make an airtight seal when applied to (in this case) the hydraulic system reservoir filler neck. With a little ingenuity a bicycle pump could be used instead if a suitable adaptor were constructed. 3 Make sure that the reservoir is filled and obtain a piece of % in

(6 mm) bore diameter rubber or plastic tube about 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.8 m) long. A clean glass jar and a quantity of fresh clean hydraulic fluid will also be needed. 4 Clean the area around the slave cylinder bleed nipple, slacken the nipple half a turn and fit one end of the tube over it. Place the other end of the tube in the glass jar, adding sufficient hydraulic fluid to cover the end of the tube. 5 Fit the pressurising device over the master cylinder filler neck and pump once or more. It is not necessary to touch the clutch pedal. Fluid will flow out of the bleed nipple. If the jar is placed so that it is Visible whilst the pumping is carried out, it will be possible to see when the expelled fluid is free from air bubbles.

6

6

eee ee

9 Remove the clutch cover screws and withdraw the cover. 10 Fully release the clutch adjusting screw and withdraw the release lever downwards after disconnecting the return spring (photos). 11 Extract the circlip and withdraw the sealing cap from the end of the clutch shaft.

12 Unscrew and remove the clutch shaft centre plastic screw together with washer and ‘O’ ring seal. On cars built after 1975, a plastic oil thrower propeller is fitted at the end of the clutch shaft (photo).

13 A suitable slide hammer (tool no. 839027, 839001) must now be screwed into the threaded hole in the end of the clutch shaft and the clutch shaft withdrawn. 14 Unscrew and remove all the clutch pressure plate cover bolts with the exception of the top two. These are left in position to prevent the assembly dropping.

15 Unscrew and remove the three bolts from the clutch release bearing

guide sleeve (photo). 16 A suitable clamp (tool no. 839207) will now be required to clamp the clutch and release bearing together. The pressure plate, driven plate,

release bearing and release bearing guide sleeve can then all be removed as an assembly. 17 Release the clamp and separate the clutch components.

Pump until the emerging fluid is free from air bubbles. Pause to

top up the master cylinder reservoir if necessary; if the level is allowed to fall too far, air will be introduced into the system and the bleeding procedure will have to be repeated. 7 When all air has been expelled, tighten the bleed nipple, top up the reservoir and check the operation of the clutch.

1

23

Fig. 5.6 Sectional view of clutch slave cylinder (Sec. 4)

7 2 3

Pushrod Dust excluding boot Circlip

4 5 6

Piston Seal Cylinder body

4.10 Clutch slave cylinder and return spring connected

89

Chapter 5/Clutch

7.10B Clutch release lever (major units

removed in the interest of clarity)

Fig. 5.8 Clutch clamping

tool (Sec. 7) 7.15 Clutch release bearing guide sleeve unbolted

Fig. 5.7 Removing clutch shaft with a slide hammer

(Sec. 7)

km). The maintenance history of the car is obviously very useful in such cases. 2 Examine the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel for signs of

scoring. If this is only light it may be left, but if very deep the pressure plate unit will have to be renewed. If the flywheel is deeply scored it

should be taken off and advice sought from an engineering firm.

Providing it may be machined completely across the face the overall

balance of engine and flywheel should not be too severely upset. \f renewal of the flywheel is necessary the new one will have to be balanced to match the original. 3. The friction plate lining surfaces should be at least 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) above the rivets, otherwise the disc is not worth putting back. If the lining material shows signs of breaking up or black areas where oil contamination has occurred it should also be renewed. If facilities are readily available for obtaining and fitting new friction pads to the

‘ Fig. 5.9 Compressing the clutch mechanism prior to removal (Sec. 7)

8

Clutch - inspection and renovation

1 Due to the slow-wearing qualities of the clutch, it is not easy to positive decide when to check the wear on the friction lining. The only

indication that something needs doing is when it starts to slip or when squealing noises on engagement indicate that the friction lining has worn that the down to the rivets. In such instances it can only be hoped not been badly friction surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate have plate is in need of worn or scored. Another indication that the driven renewal

in providing is when all available adjustment has been taken up

clutch free movement.

it is used. Much A clutch will wear according to the way in which

the correct intentional slipping of the clutch while driving - rather than to assume, however, selection of gears - will accelerate wear. It is best

miles (56,000 km) that the friction disc will need renewal every 35,000

25,000 miles (40,000 at least and that it will be worth replacing it after

existing disc this may be done but the saving is relatively small compared with obtaining a complete new disc assembly which ensures that the shock absorbing springs and the splined hub are renewed also. The same applies to the pressure plate assembly which cannot be readily dismantled and put back together without specialised riveting tools and balancing equipment. An allowance is usually given for exchange units.

4 The sealed, ball bearing type release bearing, although designed for long life, is worth renewing at the same time as the other clutch components are being renewed or serviced. 5 Deterioration of the release bearing should be suspected when there are signs of grease leakage or the unit is noisy when spun with the fingers. UENEUE Un EIEENEEEEREEREEE eee

9 Clutch - installation ————E—E———————————— 1 Centre the release bearing on the diaphragm spring and compress the two components using the clamp described in Section 7. 2 Place the release bearing guide sleeve complete with new seals and gasket in the release bearing.

3.

Place the driven plate (friction disc) against the face of the flywheel

making sure that the torsion spring projecting side is away from the flywheel.

90

Chapter 5/Ciutch

Pa

9.5 Centralising the clutch driven plate

Fig. 5.10 Installing the clutch shaft (Sec. 9) 4 Offer the pressure plate assembly to the flywheel and engage it with its dowel and then insert the top two screws finger-tight. 5 Centralise the driven plate by inserting the clutch shaft into its

ring (propeller and ‘O’ ring - 1975 models onwards). 9 Install the sealing cover and circlip to the end of the clutch shaft. 10 Install the clutch release lever, connect the return spring and then

splined hub and engaging the end of the shaft in the spigot bush in the centre of the flywheel. Drive the clutch shaft home using a plastic-faced

adjust the clutch, as described in Section 2. 11 Refit the clutch cover, the front panel and radiator.

mallet (photo).

12 Connect the coolant hoses, leads and refill the cooling system.

6 Tighten the three guide sleeve retaining screws. 7 Remove the clamp and insert and tighten all the clutch pressure plate cover screws evenly and to the specified torque. 8 Insert and tighten the clutch shaft centre screw, washer and ‘O’

13 Refit the bonnet. 14 After disturbance of the front panel it is advisable to check the headlamp beam alignment.

10 Fault diagnosis - clutch

Symptom Judder when taking up drive

Reason/s Loose engine or gearbox mountings. Badly worn friction surfaces or contaminated with oil. Worn splines on gearbox clutch shaft or driven plate hub. Worn clutch shaft spigot bush in flywheel.

Clutch spin (failure to disengage) so that gears cannot be meshed

Incorrect release bearing to diaphragm spring finger clearance. Driven plate sticking on clutch shaft splines due to rust. May occur after vehicle standing idle for long period. Damage or misaligned pressure plate assembly.

Clutch slip (increase in engine speed does not result in increase in vehicle road speed - particularly on gradients)

Incorrect release bearing to diaphragm spring finger clearance. Friction surfaces worn out or oil contaminated.

Noise evident on depressing clutch pedal

Dry, worn or damaged release bearing. Insufficient pedal free travel. Weak or broken pedal return spring. Excessive play between driven plate hub splines and clutch shaft splines.

Noise evident as clutch pedal released

Distorted driven plate. Broken or weak driven plate cushion coil springs. Insufficient pedal free travel. Weak cr broken clutch pedal return spring. Weak or broken release lever return spring. Distorted or worn clutch shaft. Release bearing loose on retainer hub.

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and final drive Refer to Chapter

13 for information and specifications related to later models

Contents

Combined EL

Sal

all a

lock - description, removal

and installation Differential bearing cap-b adjustniens ana Brounehes! to pinion backlash (transmission no. 4007 onwards)

Differential (final drive) - adjustment general Differential bearing cap - dismantling and reassembly Differential - removal, dismantling, reassembly and installation ise Fault diagnosis- differential ead final ave 2 Fault diagnosis -manual gearbox Freewheel (early 1709 cc) - removal and refifuine mes power unit

Gearbox/final drive - removal and installation ‘ Gearbox (from chassis no. 99722003499) - overhaul

ai iF

8 9

Gearshift lever - adjustment Gearshift lever - description, removal and refitting General description Inner driver from differential Sete cap - removal refitting ... : — Sse ach Pinion gear - adj osenent oe

5 6 1

= Wes

and an

ae w

Primary gear - removal and refitting mith Bower me in car

Specifications

Four forward speeds (all synchromesh) and one reverse. Floor-mounted gearshift. Freewheel on early 1709 cc. Integral with final drive and engine.

Ratios (overall) Up to chassis no. 99722003498: ist ee 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse Primary gear ratio Final drive ratio ...

oe

ac

From chassis no. 99722003499: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse

Primary gear ratio Final drive ratio ...

From chassis no. 99732007243 (gearbox no. 500 001): 1st 2nd 3rd

oo

a

os

we

ae

4th

13.4:1 Sais 5.4:1 3.951 CAS |

Reverse Primary gear ratio Final drive ratio ...

Eete aa |

Oil capacity

5 Imp. pints (3 litres, 3 US qts).

af 4

Torque wrench settings Casing bolts (8 mm) Speedometer drive a Pe Drain plug Pinion shaft nut (pinion: gear and - minimum ‘before adjustment) Pan pas

Pinion shaft end nut (chassis no.5».99722003499 on)...

Differential bearing cap bolts Crownwheel bolts

wes

i

7 10

Gearbox (up to chassis no. 99722003498) - dismantling Gearbox (up to chassis no. 99722003498) - reassembly

in car

Type

&

lb/ft

Nm

18 35 40

25 48 55

110 to 150 35 30 24

152 to 207 48 41 33

rey stl Re. he: eS

92

ie

> Wldllldddde

AL

——— |WLLLa

cre

SS oa a

Fig. 6.1 Diagrammatic presentation of transmission up to chassis no. 9972003498 1 2

3 4

Clutch shaft Primary gear

Free wheel Intermediate gear

5

Reverse gear shaft

6

Pinion shaft

7

Differential case

Zp ULLLL. doer,

DSS

WW Cee

CAIN

=VILL eS

Fig. 6.2 Diagrammatic presentation of transmission from chassis no. 9972203499 1 2

Clutch shaft Primary gear

3 4

Intermediate gear Reverse gear

5

Reverse gear shaft

6

Pinion shaft

7

Differential case

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and final drive

93

__-

the headlamps and the headlamp lens wiper (if fitted). 1.

Disconnect the radiator hoses.

General description

Remove the screws from the radiator grille panel. The transmission is designed as an integral unit combining the manually-operated gearbox and final drive mounted below the engine and transmitting power through open driveshafts to the front roadwheels. Two types of gearbox have been fitted depending upon the date of production and chassis number of the car (see Specifications Section). Gear ratios have been changed on two occasions and again, knowledge of the particular chassis number will identify the ratios applicable to

the car. A free wheel device was incorporated in 1709 cc models up until 1971. All gearboxes are of four forward speed (with synchromesh) and one reverse type. The design of the gearshift control and the synchroniser units has been modified during the production run of the car. All gears except reverse are of constant mesh type and !ubrication is by an independent oil supply, the engine and transmission being provided with separate sumps.

Power from the engine crankshaft is transmitted through the flywheel, clutch, primary gear and freewheel (early 1709 cc models) to the input gear of the gearbox. When first gear is selected, power is transmitted by the intermediate (lay) gear and shaft to the pinion shaft, first gear being locked to the shaft by a sliding synchro sleeve. When second or third gear is selected, power is transmitted in a similar manner but when top gear is selected, the gearbox input shaft is locked directly to the pinion shaft by a synchro sleeve, no power being transmitted through the intermediate shaft. When

reverse gear is selected, drive is

transmitted through a separate shaft. A gear on the reverse shaft is in constant mesh with first gear on the intermediate shaft and the reverse

shaft also carries a sliding gear splined to reverse gear. The sliding gear moves into engagement with a gear mounted on the pinion shaft. This gear also acts as a synchro sleeve for first/second gear. The freewheel transmits power from the primary gear wheel to the input shaft of the gearbox through the medium of the freewheel shaft. The freewheel hub is splined to the primary gear shaft and incorporates

Support the power unit and disconnect the engine front mountings. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.

Disconnect oOoMANnW

the throttle linkage and the damper. 10 Raise the front of the power unit about 4 in. (101.6 mm) and then remove the locking ring and clutch shaft sealing cover (photo). 11 Remove the clutch shaft centre screw, washer and ‘O’ ring and withdraw the clutch shaft as described in Chapter 5, Section 7, using a

slide hammer (photo). 12 Unbolt the cover from the primary gear case.

13 Two special tools (879031 and 879032) will now be required to depress the rollers in the freewheel hub and by twisting the tool clockwise, enable them to be withdrawn. If the special tools cannot be borrowed, a suitable device must be made up to serve the purpose.

14 Clean the freewheel components in paraffin and renew the rollers and springs if they are worn or deformed. If the freewheel shift sleeve is damaged, the freewheel shaft will have to be renewed as an assembly. 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal but apply jointing compound to the bearing housing and gear case mating faces.

3

Primary gear - removal and refitting with power unit in car

1

Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 1 to 12, of the

preceding Section. 2

Make sure that the clutch adjustment nut is fully released.

3 Onearly 1709 cc models, remove the freewheel control. 4 Remove the primary gear casing bolts and drive out the two positioning dowels. Withdraw the primary gear casing which will come away with the clutch shaft bearing and gear. 5 The idler gearwheel can be removed from the primary gear cover

after first bending down the lock tabs and then using a ‘C’ spanner to

release the securing nut (photo). 6 If necessary the shaft for the idler gearwheel can be removed from the primary gear case cover after extracting the securing bolt (photo).

2.10 Removing clutch shaft sealing cover

Fig. 6.3 Cutaway view of freewheel (Sec. 1)

2.11 Withdrawing clutch shaft

circlip

a sprung roller mechanism. This roller mechanism is locked when the engine is driving the car but on the overrum or when coasting the mechanism is released and allows a freewheel action to take over when the freewheel shaft is rotating faster than the primary shaft. An

overriding freewheel locking device is fitted.

The final drive differential assembly comprises two differential gears

and two driveshaft gears which are splined to the ends of the inner drivers. The crownwheel is bolted to the differential case and is driven by the pinion shaft. The speedometer cable is driven by a worm

gear

mounted next to one of the differential journal taper roller bearings.

a 2 Freewheel (early 1709 cc) - removal and refitting with power unit in car Remove

the bonnet. Disconnect and remove

the battery.

Drain the cooling system. switch, BWN Disconnect the leads from the radiator fan, the thermostat

Fig. 6.4 Special tools for depressing freewheel hub rollers (Sec. 2)

94

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and final drive

3.5 Primary idler gearwheel lockplate (nut removed)

3.6 Primary idler gearshaft securing bolt

3.8 Input gear in primary casing cover

7

3.9 Oil trough location in primary gear casing

The output gear and shaft can be separated from the shaft bearing

after first extracting the bearing circlip (photo). 8

The input gear can be pressed complete with bearing from the

primary casing cover (photo). 9 All bearings can be removed or refitted by extracting the circlips and pressing them out of the casing or from the gears. When the input gear is removed, the oil trough which is a tapered fit, can be extracted

from the primary gear case by driving it out and displacing the blanking

plug. Take care as the trough is very brittle (photo).

up

Fig. 6.5 Checking turning torque of primary idler gearwheel (Sec. 3)

A

4

A = 0.26—0.276” (6.5—7.0 mm) B =4°

| |

Fig. 6.7 Friction brake angle to primary idler gearwheel (Sec. 3)

Fig. 6.8 Ignition switch marking (Sec. 4)

95

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and final drive 10 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but the idler gearwheel nut must be tightened and staked to give a turning torque to the gearwheel of between 3 and 4 Ib in. (0.4 and 0.5 Nm). This can be set by winding acord round the gear and attaching a spring balance to the cord. Adjust the nut so that the gear will start to turn when the spring balance reads

between 1.3 and 1.8 Ib. (0.6 and 0.8 kg). If the idler gearwheel is fitted with a friction brake, its function is to eliminate gear backlash and so reduce noise. The friction brake has two more teeth than the idler gearwheel and it is spring-loaded. As the friction brake rotates slightly slower than the idler gearwheel, it exerts a retarding force which is sufficient to eliminate backlash between the primary input gear and the

output gear. When installing the friction brake, make sure that the teeth Fig. 6.9 Components of the

make contact with the surface of the idler gearwheel and that they are inclined at the correct angle and are not deformed or distorted. The friction brake is retained in position with a circlip. 11 Refitting the primary gear casing or the cover is. a reversal of removal

but apply jointing compound

gear lever lock (Sec. 4) Gearshift lever housing Spring Locking tongue Cog Segment Lock cylinder NQQOA WHIgnition key

to the mating faces of the cover

and primary gearcase and adjust the clutch (Chapter 5). 4 Combined installation

ignition/starter/gear lever lock - description, removal and

1 The lever is lever is 2 The

is designed as an anti-theft device so that if the gearshift in reverse and the ignition key withdrawn, the gearshift in the reverse position. has the following positions:

switch placed locked switch

fk

(Locked):

The gearshift lever must be in reverse before the key can be turned to L and withdrawn. All electrical circuits are inoperative except for parking lamps and hazard warning lamps.

G

(Garage):

All lighting circuits can be switched on but not the ignition.

K

(Ignition):

All electrical systems operative including the ignition system.

Ss

(Start):

Starter motor actuated, when released, key returns to position K.

3 The lock mechanism can be removed by first engaging reverse gear and withdrawing the ignition key. 4 Remove the left-hand front seat and move the right-hand one as far forward as possible. 5 Disconnect the leads from the battery terminals. 6 Pull the flexible boot up the gearshift lever and remove the three screws from the gear lever cap.

7 Withdraw the gear lever complete with carrier and extract the lever bearing and the spring ring. 8

Peel back the floor carpet and remove the plate from the heater

ducts in front of the gearshift !ever housing. 9 Remove the knobs from the heater controls and the freewheel

Fig. 6.10 Ignition lock and key (Sec. 4) 7

Catchpin hole

2

Ignition key

3

Lock cylinder

control (early 1709 cc only). 10 Remove the three screws from the gear lever cover. 11 Disconnect the leads from the ignition switch and the reversing lamp terminals and remove the cover. 12 With the gearshift lever housing now exposed, release the securing bolts from the housing so that the housing can be raised slightly, twisted aside and the cover plate removed by unscrewing the retaining screws from underneath. 13 With the cover plate removed, the ignition/starter switch can be

extracted (two screws) also the lock tongue, cogwheel and spring can be removed. 14 \f the lock cylinder must be removed then the bolts which secure taper the gear lever housing must be removed (not just released) and the pin which connects the shift rod to the gearbox selector rod must be driven out and the gear lever housing removed. 15 Turn the key in the cylinder lock until it lines up with the right-

by hand edge of the lock trademark and then depress the lock catchpin Pull inserting a probe into the small hole under the gear lever housing. out the lock cylinder. keys 16 If the ignition key has been lost and a new lock cylinder and it will must be installed, then before the old cylinder can be removed, pin can then be have to be drilled as shown in Fig. 6.12. The catch

depressed.

Fig. 6.11 Depressing ignition lock catchpin (Sec. 4)

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and final drive

96

Fig. 6.12 Diagram for drilling lock cylinder if key is lost (Sec. 4)

Hole 0.12 in (3.0 mm) diameter x 7 in (25.4 mm) deep

Fig. 6.13 Ignition/starter switch alignment diagram (Sec. 4) 1 2

Projection Punch mark

3 4

Arrow Slot

17 To refit the lock cylinder, turn the key until it is in alignment with the trademark, depress the catch pin and install the cylinder twisting it slightly to the right until it is felt to engage with the toothed segment of the lock. 18 To refit the ignition/starter switch, insert a screwdriver blade in the

slot (4) (Fig. 6.13) and turn it until the punch mark (2) is opposite the arrow (3). Check that the ignition key is in the ‘L’ position and then

Lever Flexible boot

Cap Seat Spring ring DAARWY» Tension pin

Housing Gearshift rod Bearing Flexible bush Carrier

mount the switch so that the projection (1) will engage with the corresponding recess in the gear lever housing. Check the key for freedom of action and then fit the cover plate.

19 Install the gear !ever housing making sure that the plastic bush on the gearshift is correctly positioned in its bracket. Move the gearshift rod to the neutral position and install the gearshift lever, bearing and

spring ring. 20 Adjust the gear positions as described in Section 5. 21 Reconnect all switch leads and refit all components order to removal (see Chapter 10, Section 20).

5

in the reverse

Gearshift lever - adjustment

1 The gearshift lever should be checked and adjusted if necessary whenever any components of the gearshift linkage have been removed,

renewed or refitted.

2 Engage reverse gear and turn the ignition key to ‘L’. 3 Move the gearshift lever backwards and forwards gently and measure the movement of the gearshift rod. This should be between 0.06 and 0.1 in. (1.5 to 2.5 mm). Adjustment can be made by releasing the gearlever housing bolts and moving the housing slightly within the limits of the housing bolt holes.

6

J

Gearshift levers - description, removal and refitting

1 Three different types of floor-mounted gearshift levers may be fitted according to the date of production of the car (indicated by the

chassis number).

Cars up to chassis no. 99,009,988 2

Place the gearshift lever in neutral.

3 4

Pull the flexible boot up the lever. Remove the three screws from the cap and withdraw the lever and

Carrier.

5

Remove the gearshift lever ball seat and spring ring.

Lever Flexible boot Cap Seat QAASWMYs Tension pin

Housing Gearshift rod Bearing Flexible bush Carrier

Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and final drive

97

Cars up to chassis no. 99,039,547 6 7

Withdraw the gearshift lever as described in the preceding paragraphs. Release the locknut and remove the gearlever knob.

8 Insert a r» \

gy

08 18 0+

7 3


)

Fig. 11.16 Front suspension lower control arm components (up to 1975) (Sec. 11) 2

:

ad

Fig. 11.17 Front suspension lower control arm components

(Sec. 11)

2

Control arm

3

Flexible bush

4

(1975 on)

Pivot bearing bracket

201

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

Fig. 11.18 Front suspension lower control arm to pivot bearing

bracket alignment diagram (Sec. 17)

7

Al

Fig. 11.20 Prising plug from centre of steering wheel (1969 models)

15.2 Removing steering wheel spoke cover amount as was the case when

7

it was undone.

Reconnect the balljoint taper pin to the steering arm and tighten

the securing nut. if they 8 Check that the steering gear bellows have not been twisted;

nut (Sec. 15) Fig. 11.21 Unscrewing the steering wheel retaining renewal, no adjustment being provided for. perforated, it can 2. \f the flexible dust excluding boot is damaged or pin from the steering be renewed after disconnecting the balljoint taper arm of the knuckle housing. 3

To remove

a trackrod-end,

unscrew and remove the nut which secures

the knuckle housing. Using the balljoint taper pin to the steering arm of balljoint from the steering a suitable separator or wedges, disconnect the arm. a spanner to its flats or 4 Grip the trackrod-end securely by applying its locknut. by using a pair of self-locking grips and release and unscrew the 5 Hold the locknut and trackrod quite still . trackrod the from trackrod-end locknut, screw on the new 6 Without disturbing the position of the it only about the same trackrod-end and lock the locknut by turning

have, release the smal! clip and set them straight. 9 Although through careful manipulation of the trackrod-end locknut the front wheel alignment will not have been disturbed very much, it is

essential that the alignment is checked and adjusted, if necessary, at the

first opportunity as described in Section 25.

Ea 15 Steering wheel - removal and refitting

ms 1

On 1969 models, prise up the plug in the centre of the steering

whee! and remove

the safety pad (one screw).

2 On later cars, remove the steering column lower shroud and release the four screws which are accessible from the rear face of the steering from wheel spokes. Remove the safety pad and the horn contact finger

the steering wheel (photo). 3

Hold the steering wheel still and unscrew the centre retaining nut.

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

202

15.4 Removing steering wheel

15.5 Steering wheel removed

16.3 Steering column joint accessible

between

foot pedals

Remove the nut and washer.

4 If the steering wheel cannot be withdrawn using gentle hand pressure, then on no account try to jar it off by banging its underside with the hands or by striking the end of the steering shaft. Any such action will destroy the collapsible safety feature which is built into the column assembly and a new column/shaft will have to be installed. If the steering wheel is stuck tight, use only a suitable extractor, taking

care not to damage the plastic surface of the steering wheel hub (photo). 5

If required, the direction indicator switch actuator can now be

extracted (photo). 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the indicator switch actuator has its centre line coinciding with the centre line of the indicator switch housing when the front roadwheels are in the

‘straight-ahead’ position. 7 Install the steering wheel to the shaft splines so that with the roadwheels in the ‘straight-ahead’ position, the spokes of the steering

wheel form an inverted vee (1969 models) or are horizontal on later cars. 8 Tighten the steering wheel nut to 22 lb/ft (30 Nm).

Fig. 11.22 Installing steering intermediate shaft dust excluding boot

(Sec. 16) “ge

16 Steering column - removal, dismantling, reassembly and refitting 1 2

Remove the steering wheel as described in the preceding Section. Remove the lower shroud from the upper end of the steering

column.

3 Remove the pinch bolt from the joint at the upper end of the intermediate shaft. Cars with power steering have a double universal joint at the upper end of the intermediate shaft (photo). 4 Remove the two bolts from the column support bracket at the lower end of the steering column. 5 Remove the two bolts from the column support bracket at the upper end of the steering column. 6 Withdraw the column assembly and at the same time, disconnect

the wiring harness multi-pin plug. 7 To dismantle the assembly, pull the shaft from the upper end of the column and extract the flexible and steel bushes and thrust washers from the column. 8 If the flexible bellows on the intermediate shaft require renewal, cut off the old bellows and manipulate the new ones into position over the joint. The use of petroleum jelly or rubber lubricant will ease the task of installing the new bellows. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the steering column

assembly is connected to the intermediate shaft in such a way

that the joint pinch bolt hole is in alignment with the groove in the column shaft.

Fig. 11.23 Withdrawing steering gear (LHD) up to 1975 (Sec. 17) 4 Remove the steering column bracket bolts and withdraw the steering column/wheel assembly far enough inside the car to be able to disconnect the intermediate shaft lower joint from the steering gear

17 Steering gear - removal and refitting

pinion. 5 Remove the front roadwheels.

1 Working inside the car, release the flexible bellows at the point where the intermediate shaft passes through the engine compartment rear bulkhead. 2 Jack-up the front of the car and support it securely under the bodyframe. 3 Remove the pinch bolt which secures the intermediate shaft lower joint to the steering gear pinion.

6 Using a suitable separator or forked wedges, disconnect the trackrod-end balljoints from the steering arms. 7 Disconnect the two clamps which secure the steering gear to the bodyframe. 8 Oncars built up until 1975 withdraw the steering gear from under the front wheel arch on the left-hand side of the car (LHD) or from the

right-hand side (RHD).

203 Fig. 11.24 Exploded view of steering column (up to 1975) (Sec. 16)

Safety pad Steering wheel Direction indicator switch actuator Stee! bush Flexible bush

Shaft Column tube up to chassis no. 99008869 Column tube from chassis NQOOA hm & no. 99008870 9 Flexible bush 10 Steel bush

11 Intermediate shaft 12 Dust excluding boot 13 Joint section 14 Rubber washer

15 Spacer (from chassis no. 99063198)

Fig. 11.25 Exploded view of steering column (1975 on) (Sec. 16) 71 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Steering Bush Slip ring Spacer Bush Flexible Shaft Column Flexible

wheel

bush

tube bush

10 711 12 13 14 15

Bush Rubber washer Intermeidate shaft Dust excluding boot Joint section Double universal joint used in conjunction with power steering

204 9

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering On later cars, move the steering gear as far as possible to the left

(RHD) or the right (LHD) bend the trackrod downwards and withdraw the gear through the aperture in the engine undertray. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal but on completion always check the front wheel alignment (Section 25).

18 Steering gear (up to chassis no. 99022278) adjustment 1 the 2 3 the

- overhaul and

With the gear removed from the car as previously described, release locknuts and unscrew the trackrod-ends from the trackrods. Unscrew the securing clips and pull off the flexible bellows. Prise up the lockplates and dismantle the joints at the inner ends of trackrods by unscrewing the outer bearing cups from the end

Fig. 11.27 Exploded view of the steering gear (up to chassis no. 99022278) (Sec. 18) 7 2 ‘} 4

Housing Rack Bush Pinion

39 70 17 12

5

Bearing

13 Locknut

g as Z ae ote

Plunger Wah? Spring Screw

14 Grease nipple 14 Rack end fitting

7 j e ere 18 Inner cup 19 Lockplate

20 Track rod 21 Outer cup 22 Clip

Sy,ae 25 Locknut 26 Trackrod end

27 Nut 28 Flexible 29 Stee! bush

Chapter 11/Suspen a sion and steering fitting. 4 Grip the exposed portion of the rack in the jaws of a vice, protecting the rack with two blocks of wood. Unscrew the end fitting. 5 Unscrew the locknut and remove the rack adjuster component s. 6 Unscrew the gland nut from the pinion and extract the pinion complete with bearing from the steering gear housing. Removal will normally require the use of a slide-hammer but if a weight is tied to the groove in the pinion and allowed to fall while the steering gear housing is inverted, the pinion/bearing can usually be extracted. 7 \f the pinion bearing is to be removed, extract the circlip and drive off the bearing with a piece of tubing. 8 Clean all components and renew any which are worn or damaged. 9 During reassembly, apply recommended grease to the sliding and mating surfaces of the internal components. 10 If the steering gear housing bushes have been removed, make sure that the new ones are installed so that the hole in the larger bush is in alignment with the one in the housing. 11 Insert the rack into the housing and the pinion/bearing with circlip.

amount. 22 When the assembly is refitted to the car, the front wheel alignment

will have to be set (see Section 25). ees ee

aS 19 Steering gear (from chassis no. 99022279) - overhaul and adjustment a a 1 With ‘the steering gear removed from the car as previously described, release the locknuts and unscrew and remove the trackrod-ends from the trackrods. 2 Release the clips and remove the flexible bellows. 3 Drill out the securing pins from the trackrod inner balljoints using

a 0.1575 in (4 mm) diameter drill. Take care not to drill more than 3/8 in (9.4 mm) deep. 4 5 6

Unscrew the balljoint outer bearing cups from their locknuts. Unbolt and remove the rack adjuster assembly. Unbolt and remove the pinion assembly.

12 Tighten the gland nut against the pinion bearing outer track. 13 Install the rack adjuster plunger, spring, threaded plug and locknut but leave them slack at this stage.

werggree® Hay \ { ah

14 Screw the end fitting onto the rack and lock them by staking the

end fitting flange into the notch in the rack. 15 Fit the lockplate, spring, shims and inner bearing cup then attach the trackrod by screwing on the outer bearing cup. If the trackrod inner balljoint components have not been renewed and the Original shims are being refitted then when the outer bearing cup is tightened against the end fitting, the adjustment of the balljoints should automatically be correct. If the components have been changed, then a certain amount of re-shimming will probably be needed to provide the correct setting. When correctly shimmed and the outer bearing cup tightened, it should

require a force of 6.5 Ib (3 kg) applied to the end of the trackrod to move it in any direction. Use a spring balance for this. 16 When the inner balljoint adjustment is correct, bend down the tabs of the lockplates. 17 Now adjust the rack backlash. To do this, make sure that the adjuster locknut is quite free and screw the adjuster fully home. Now unscrew the adjuster between 1/8 and % turn and tighten the locknut.

205

®,

ky

1

2

\

uA

ie

ie

3

é

A Fran ‘

x

4

| : fa

5

(op)

~

Fig. 11.29 Steering rack balljoint components 99022278) (Sec. 18)

1 2 3 4

End fitting Spring Shims Bearing inner cup

5 6 7

ore ne]

(up to chassis no.

Lock plate Track rod Bearing outer cup

18 Check for free-movement of the rack from lock-to-lock. 19 Install the flexible bellows and tighten their retaining clamps. 20 Inject grease through the grease nipple until it can be felt to just start pressurising the bellows. 21 Screw the locknuts and trackrod-ends onto the trackrods, taking care not to twist the bellows and to screw each trackrod on an equal

Fig. 11.30 Drilling out an inner balljoint pin (steering gear after chassis no. 99022278) (Sec. 19)

Fig. 11.28 Staking a steering rack end fitting (up to chassis no.

99022278) (Sec. 18) Fig. 11.31 Releasing bearing outer cup and locknut (steering gear after

chassis no. 99022278) (Sec. 19)

206 Chapter 11/Suspension and steering ee Ls ee aes nee ee 7 Withdraw the rack from the housing. 8 The pinion lower bearing can be extracted by tapping the housing on a block of hardwood. 9 The bushes in the steering gear housing are in-line reamed and should not be removed. If they are worn, renew the steering gear housing. 10 Inspect all components for wear or damage and renew as appropriate. If the car is a 1972 model, pack the assembly with specified grease as reassembly progresses. With 1973 and later cars, the gear is oil filled

on completion (see paragraph 18). 11 Fit the trackrod inner balljoint locknut to the pinion end of the rack. Fit the outer bearing cup and fill it with grease (1972 only). Insert the spring and the bearing inner cup and then tighten the outer bearing cup so that the trackrod will just be held horizontally and will not fall under its own weight. Tighten the locknut without moving the bearing outer cup.

12 Drill a new hole 0.1575 in (4.0 mm) in diameter and 3/8 in deep (9.4 mm) and tap in a new locking pin. Stake the pin in position by

ee

punching over the edge of the hole at four equidistant points. Make sure that no swarf from the drilling operation enters the steering gear housing.

13 Insert the rack into the housing and install the pinion and pinion upper bearing. 14 Before the pinion cover plate and gasket are installed shims must be selected and fitted to just eliminate any endfloat of the pinion or bearing when the cover plate and gasket are bolted down. Suitable shims are available in four different thicknesses. 15 Now adjust the rack backlash. To do this, install the plunger without the spring and then screw on the cover plate complete with gasket but tightening the bolts with the fingers only until the cover plate just touches the plunger. Using feeler gauges, measure the gap

between the cover plate and the housing. To this measurement (A) add between 0.002 and 0.006 in (0.05 and 0.15 mm) and then using a micrometer, assemble shims to the cover plate gasket to make the total shim/gasket pack equal to the measurement ‘A’. Install the plunger, spring, shims, gasket and cover plate and then check that the rack does not stick or bind when the pinion is turned from lock-to-lock. 16 Assemble the balljoint at the other end of the rack.

17 On 1972 models check that the gear is well packed with recommended grease, fit the flexible bellows and their securing clips. 18 On 1973 and later models, fit the bellows but leave one of the outer clips loose on the bellows at one end of the housing. Stand the housing on end and inject under the unsecured end of the bellows 5

fluid oz. (141.5 ml) of EP 90 gear oil. Tighten the clamp. 19 Screw on the locknuts and the trackrod-ends an equal amount onto each trackrod. When the gear is installed to the car, check the front

wheel alignment (see Section 25).

20 Power steering gear - description and precautions 1

Fig. 11.32 Measuring cover plate to housing clearance (steering gear after

chassis no. 99022278) (Sec. 19)

Hydraulically, power-assisted steering gear is provided as an option

on 1975 models onwards. 2 The components of the system comprise a fluid reservoir located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, a hydraulic pump driven by a drivebe!t from the crankshaft pulley, the necessary power unit built into the steering gear and the interconnecting pipes and

Fig. 11.33 Exploded view of the steering gear (from chassis no. 99022278)

7

Housing

13 Bellows

2

Rack

24 Boot retaining ring

14 Clip

25 Trackrod-end

3

Lower bearing

15 Plunger

4 5

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26 Locknut

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18 Gasket

27 Trackrod 28 Bearing outer cup

7 8 9 10 11

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19 20 21 22 23

30 31 32 33 34

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Cover plate Circlip Screw Nut Dust excluding boot

29 Locknut

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Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

207

Fig. 11.34 Layout of power steering gear (Sec. 20) Hydraulic pump Drive belt Servo valve Gear QAAWShYs Fluid reservoir

regulating valves. 3 Always keep the reservoir topped-up with fluid to the specified level. 4 Never keep the steering at full lock with the engine running or the pump will overheat. 5 Do not run the car with the exhaust heat shield removed as this will also cause the pump to overheat. 6 Periodically, check the pump drivebelt tension and the security of the connecting hoses. The drivebelt should have a total deflection of

% in (12.7 mm) at the centre of its longest run. ——eeeeeee————_————

21 Power steering gear - removal and refitting rr

Fig. 11.35 Withdrawing powering steering gear (Sec. 21)

1 Jack-up the front of the car and support the bodyframe securely on axle stands. 2 Remove the front roadwheels.

14 Check and adjust the front wheel alignment, described in Section

3 Disconnect the trackrod-end balljoints from the steering arms. Release the locknuts and unscrew and remove the trackrod-ends from the trackrods.

20:

4

——

From the ‘straight-ahead’ position, turn the steering wheel one

complete turn left (LHD) or right (RHD). 5 Remove the blanking panel from under the fascia panel and then withdraw the flexible bellows up the lower end of the steering column.

to expose the shaft double universal joint. 6 Withdraw the pinch bolt from the upper end of the double joint. 7 Disconnect the fluid pressure pipe from the pump and plug the

pipe and the pump. 8 Disconnect the pump fluid return hose at its junction with the rigid pipe. Plug the hose and pipe. 9 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission. 10 Disconnect the steering gear housing from the bodyframe and pull the gear downwards so that the pinch bolt at the lower end of the double universal joint can be removed and the double joint itself withdrawn.

11 Move the steering gear as far to the right (LDH) as possible (to the

22 Power steering gear - overhaul and adjustment ns 1

With the gear removed from the car and any external dirt cleaned

off, remove the trackrod-ends and their locknuts, release the clips and pull off the flexible bellows. 2 Prise up the tabs of the lockplates on the inner balljoint end pieces. 3 Clamp the rack at the pinion end between two blocks of wood in the jaws of a vice. Release the locknuts and disconnect both inner balljoints and extract the springs and washers. 4 Release the rack adjuster screw locknut and unscrew the adjuster screw. Extract the retaining plate, spring, ‘O’ ring and plunger. 5 Disconnect and remove the two pipes which run between the servo valve and each side of the servo cylinder. 6 Unscrew and remove the three self-locking nuts and lift the servo

left RHD) and bend the trackrod downwards through the aperture in the body floor panel. Withdraw the steering gear twisting tne valve housing backwards. 12 Refitting is carried out in the reverse order to removal. Make sure that the double universal joint is installed to the steering and pinion shafts so that with the roadwheels in the ‘straight-ahead’ position and the rack centralised, the pinch bolt holes in the joint are in alignment

8 Grip the end housing in the vice and using a ‘C’ spanner, unscrew the gland nut and separate the end housing from the servo cylinder. (Fig. 111.37)

with the grooves in the shafts. 13 Top-up the hydraulic fluid, as described in Section 23.

9 Disconnect the bleed tube and retain the olives. Extract the gasket, washer and servo seal.

valve housing, valve and pinion housing from the steering gear housing. Keep the servo valve free from dirt. |\ 7

Using an Allen key, extract the socket screw from the gland nut at

the servo cylinder/end housing joint. (Fig. 11.36)

208

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

10 Withdraw the rack from the steering gear housing and then remove the knurled sleeve, servo seal and washer from the end housing. Extract the plunger seal and circlip. Do not try to remove the plunger from the rack. 11 Clean, inspect and renew any worn or damaged parts including the pinion needle bearings if they show signs of wear. A repair kit is available for reconditioning the power-assisted steering gear.

12 Commence reassembly by applying thread locking compound pinion needle bearing seat and installing the bearing.

to the

13 Install the circlip and new Teflon ring to the rack plunger. Slide the knurled sleeve onto the rack. 14 Install the servo seal. Use a piece of plastic tube or tape to ease the seal over the rack teeth and to prevent the seal being damaged. Turn the notch in the seal to free the servo plunger. Install the washer onto the rack. 15 Push the rack into the servo cylinder until the knurled sleeve can be seen through the hole for the fluid tube connection. Now rotate the sleeve using a thin screwdriver and hold it in position by screwing in the banjo bolt (only finger-tight) which normally secures the fluid pipe to the centre of the servo cylinder.

Fig. 11.36 Removing servo cylinder gland nut locking screw (power

steering gear) (Sec. 22)

Fig. 11.40 End housing temporary guide tube in positon ready for connection of servo cylinder (power steering)

(Sec. 22)

Fig. 11.37 Separating servo cylinder from end housing (power steering)

(Sec. 22)

Fig. 11.38 Installing rack to servo cylinder (power steering) (Sec. 22) 7 2

Plunger seal Knurled sleeve

3 4

Fig. 11.41 Installing servo valve (power steering) (Sec. 22)

Servo seal Washer

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Fig. 11.39 Aligning knurled sleeve in power steering servo cylinder

(Sec. 22)

Fig. 11.42 Power steering rack adjuster components

(Sec. 22)

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering 16 To the end housing, install the servo seal, turning the seal notch

towards the plunger. 17 Install the washer so that the smaller diamete r is towards the servo seal. 18 Install! the seal which has the square section. 19 Tape or fit a plastic collar over the threads on the end of the rack. Pass the rack into the end housing and connect the end housing to the

servo cylinder at the same time, connecting the bleed tube. Correct mating of the end housing and servo cylinder will be established if a

suitable tube is passed through the fluid pipe connect ion hole in the end housing. This tube will not only set the insertio n distance of the servo cylinder into the end housing but will also ensure the correct alignment of the cylinder to the housing when the tempora ry guide tube is felt to engage in the cut-out in the end of the servo cylinder.

20 Tighten the gland nut to a torque of 130 Ib/ft (179 Nm). Lock the

gland nut with the socket screw. 21 Fit the washer and seal between the Pinion and servo valve. Install the servo valve into the housing. 22 Position the gasket between the valve housing and the steering gear mating flange. Install the sealing ring, plastic washer and circlip into the valve housing. 23 Fit a protective tube or tape the end of the pinion shaft and install

the valve housing. Tighten the self-locking nuts to a torque of 16 Ib/ft

{22 Nm).

24 Extract the temporary guide tube from the fluid pipe connectio n hole in the end housing and the banjo bolt which was screwed finger-tight into the servo cylinder and fit the two pipes which run between the servo valve housing and the servo cylinder and end housing. 25 Install the rack adjuster plunger ‘O’ ring, spring, cover, screw and locknut. Leave the screw and locknut loose. 26 Secure the toothed end of the rack between two wooden blocks in the jaws of a vice and install the balljoint assemblies to each end of the rack. Tighten the balljoint end fittings to a torque of between 47 and 54 |b/ft (65 and 75 Nm). Tighten the locknuts and bend down the tabs of the lockplates. 27 Screw in the rack backlash adjuster screw until resistance can be felt when the pinion is rotated to turn the rack. Unscrew the screw

209

ee

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