Haynes Nissan Sunny 1986-91 Service and Repair Manual 1859601863, 9781859601860

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There is almost certainly a Haynes Manual to cover your specific vehicle, whatever its age. Each manual features clear, easy-tofollow text linked to hundreds of step-bystep photos that guide you through each task. From the simplest service to a major rebuild, Haynes shows you how and saves

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Roadside Repairs at MOT Tost Checks

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Nissan Sunny service and Repair Manual | M Coomber Models

(1378-320-1Y6)

covered

All Nissan Sunny models with petrol engines; Hatchback and Saloon/Pulsar (N13), Coupé and Estate (B12), including ZX models and special/limited editions 1270 cc, 1392 cc, 1597 cc, 1598 cc and 1809 cc Does not cover Diesel engine models

A

© Haynes Publishing 1996

)

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

P

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form

or by any

means,

electronic

or mechanical,

including

photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

| Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

ISBN 1 85960 186 3

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Editions Haynes S.A.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR NISSAN SUNNY Introduction

Page

094

Safety First!

Page

0O*5

Dimensions, weights and capacities

Page

0°6

Identifying leaks

Page

097

Jacking, wheel changing and towing

Page

08

Jump starting

Page

0e10

Routine maintenance (also see Chapter 13)

Page

Oe11

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Page

00e14

Tyre checks

Page

0e15

Lubricants and fluids

Page

0e*16

Roadside Repairs

Routine Maintenance

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Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine (also see Chapter 13)

Page

11

Cooling and heating systems (also see Chapter 13) Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (also see Chapter 13) Ignition system (also see Chapter 13)

Page

2e1

Page

3e1

Page

4e1

Clutch (also see Chapter 13)

Page

5e1

Manual transmission (also see Chapter 13)

Page

66¢1

Automatic transmission (also see Chapter 13) Driveshafts (also see Chapter 13)

Page

7e1

Page

8e1

Page

9Qe1

Page

10e1

Page

11¢1

Page

12e¢1

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Page

13¢1

Wiring Diagrams

Page

1401

Transmission

Brakes Braking system (also see Chapter 13)

Suspension Suspension and steering (also see Chapter 13)

Body Equipment Bodywork and fittings (also see Chapter 13)

Electrical Electrical system (also see Chapter 13)

Additional Information

REFERENCE MOT Test Checks Checks carried out from the driver’s seat

Page

REFe1

Checks carried out with the vehicle on the ground

Page

REFe2

Checks carried out with the vehicle raised

Page

REFe3

Page

REFe4

Tools and Working Facilities

Checks carried out on your vehicle’s exhaust emission system

Page

REFe5

General Repair Procedures

Page

REFe8

Fault Finding

Page

REFe9

Conversion factors

Page

REFe12

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page

REFe13

Index

Page

REFe17

o4

Introduction.

Introduction to the Nissan Sunny The new Nissan Sunny range was introduced in October 1986. Mechanically

similar to the previous series of the Sunny. most of the changes made for the ‘new’ series are cosmetic. The engine and the transmission are of the same basic design of the earlier models. The engine is watercooled, has an overhead camshaft, and the crankshaft runs in five main bearings. The manual or automatic transmission (as applicable), is attached to the rear end of the engine, the two being transversely mounted at the front of the car. Drive is to the front roadwheels via driveshafts which are connected to the differential within the transmission at their inboard ends, and the wheel hubs at their outboard ends. Four distinct body types are produced; the 2-door or 4-door Saloon, the 3-door or 5-door Hatchback, the 5-door Estate and the 3-door Coupe. The level of standard equipment is high, but a range of optional extras for each is available. All models in the Sunny range are conventional in design and are therefore easy to maintain and repair.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Nissan Motor Company Limited of Japan and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to SykesPickavant, who provided some of the workshop tools. Finally, thanks are due to all the staff at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicle The vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences, was a Nissan

Sunny SGX Hatchback.

Nissan Sunny Coupe

Safety First! Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

® Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding ¢ Don’t remove the radiator or expansion

tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ° Beware of burns from the.exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon

a

° When working under or near a raised vehicle,

:

monoxide, which is

rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some

Poisonous or irritant substances

@f=3

a

-

under a car which is only supported by a jack. e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

always

WN ti, LEENR S_GFS

y

supplement the jack with axle

stands, or use

fae

drive-on ramps.

ae VEN

mr

ay

(ese @ Reames 6 se, }

Never

xa

venture

ae

WEDS

e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type

suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

a

e Ignition HT voltage canbe

dangerous, especially to people with heart

ooh “Sf

oy

ay“~~

problems or a Lip pacemaker. Don’t a work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

rf

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are

cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Crushing

0e5

exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged

from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or

allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage Instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remembenr... DO e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

e Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. * Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. ¢ Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DON’T e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component

which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. ¢ Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

© Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

® Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o6

Dimensions, Weights & Capacities

Dimensions Overall length: I ALCHIDAGK mmr teette Stet tien pero rete ae LTRS td ial oak eesaoe Salon mnteate hen yet Meese R ene ants tidwk Cetin ah Ak edited | Chey a OUD CMemee Tactca tai tis! Ree ae ie ee ice ciamaia ats ouimeseenaueraens EState mete tree nity Stee a I Oe he Ah, osesi ns So WS nk Overall width: Breath aCK sme tiint5 cents ene nrc cee ete. aren ey duck ee ae ed SECC aks ates ee eReLe ole Ro MER aed mene: poe en ey tei Bice

Overall height: Imatehback@eenwe tame. a.s cae Mien te AE), Ao tee Ae coe Getaba SAlOOMER Men atte cheonce ve cece ols Men ve See (CLOUT ere Sayan yesc Cason ake SRR PN om: © Vk Mares Sept Uaterwte SSELO, Geta ener Ns hr of OE ee We On hye ane

4061 4215 4230 4270

mm mm mm mm

(159.9 (165.9 (166.5 (168.1

in) in) in) in)

1640 1640 1665 1640

mm (64.6 in) mm (64.6 in) mm (65.6 in) mm (64.6 in)

1379 mm (54.3 in ) 1379 mm ((64.3 in)

1323 mm (62.1 in) 1384 mm (64.5 in)

Weights Kerb weight (typical — add 20 kg/44 Ib for automatic transmission): FIALCID ACK wicayctSteutse a c.cdits saxeomals onde WyAevaisco RT ae Eo

Maximum towing weight - with brakes: brat Ch baCk sans. siesta et mA, 1ooh CsA. SAO OW ewaper area eslin accra eat eters A

COUR CTR Prater eeiecaissche aeRO RUN cere ESTALOM

Eas gePeg eth nD Us

rit cic eR

Pa tard authatcnche suc anchored Sie Rete oto Teaches baer Bbgg

Bee ata

ane ee

ORG

989 kg (2180 Ib) 991 kg (2185 Ib) 1019 kg (2246 Ib) 1034 kg (2280 Ib) 999 999 899 999

kg kg kg kg

( ) (2202 Ib) (1982 Ib) (2202 Ib)

Capacities PARANA TOMES) ee okctck ko SNe cane | ca. Cooling system: Pui aluininitun, Faglators aes akey see ee. Mahe lees Ach With COppemadiatOlme siniiise cameras oe aes Uae ete eee Came Beare Ol (WICH TIREr: CHANGE) iche sete tise csc 2c hee ee ee Manual transmission:

pe DOOG UD 10 VANUlAly A-SPECC MON) VanuUahy SFESCClUP OIE WEY 5-speed from January Automatic transmission Power steering fluid

OB Wsitie cs .ce ss ounce ene oe eee OG sees aren ite a. es ee ee IRE shounntonedouedaorocoeececatece. 1987

50 litres (11 gallons) 4.9 litres (8.62 pints) 5.5 litres (9.68 pints) 3.2 litres (5.63 pints) 2.3 2.4 2.7 2.8 6.3 0.9

litres (4.05 pints) litres (4.22 pints) litres (4.75 pints) litres (4.93 pints) litres (11.0 pints) litre (1.6 pints)

Roadside Repairs

i

Se

7

identifying leaks Puddles

obvious

on the garage floor or drive, or

wetness

under

the

bonnet

or

underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs

investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils

and fluids are poisonous. Wash

Th

HAYNES

ll of. aflaid leaks

f = giles eles

ee

them off skin, and change out of

HINT fhe . pees y ale pe

contaminated clothing, without delay.

yea - apis poe sibel as 9 oy ) coloured. It may help to clean the car __ carefully and to park it over some clean g : ti oo by ah meyers ae el ing ihe setesteaed ek Led z Remember that some leaks may only

occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil ee oe

—s

Oil from filter

eS

Gearbox oil .

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter. 7

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0°8

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, wheel changing and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for emergency roadside wheel changing (photo). Chock the roadwheels on the side opposite to that from which the wheel is being removed. Engage the jack in one of the two cut-outs at the base of the sill, either front or rear according to which wheel is being removed. When carrying out overhaul or repair work | use a trolley jack or a hydraulic bottle or screw jack. Locate the jack under the vehicle only at the positions indicated and always supplement the jack with axle stands placed under the side-members.

To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work under it is not included before each operation described in this Manual. It is to be preferred, and is certainly recommended, that the vehicle is positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where these facilities are not available, use ramps or jack up the vehicle and supplement with axle stands, as described earlier.

Wheel changing The removal and refitting of a roadwheel should be carried out in the following way. Carefully prise off the centre trim (where

fitted) from the roadwheel — the trim is easily broken, so do not use excessive force. Unscrew the roadwheel nuts just enough to release them, before raising the car. On roadwheels having a small plastic centre cap, twist it through a quarter-turn and remove it. Raise the roadwheel from the ground, remove the nuts completely, then lift the roadwheel from the studs (photo). Refit the roadwheel, tighten the nuts as tightly as possible while the wheel is held against rotation with the foot. Lower the vehicle and tighten the nuts fully. Fit the cap/trim to the centre of the roadwheel.

Towing

Jack stowage location in luggage area (Hatchback)

Standard (pantograph) type jack location points when raising the vehicle

Location for spare wheel and tools (Hatchback)

Loosen the roadwheel bolts...

The front and rear towing hooks may be used in an emergency. On vehicles with manual transmission, restrict the towing speed to below 50 mph (80 kph) and the distance towed to 50 miles (80 km). On vehicles with automatic transmission, restrict the speed to 20 mph (30 kph) and the distance towed to 20 miles (30 km). If the transmission has a fault, then the front wheels of the vehicle must be raised and placed on a dolly. Never tow a vehicle with automatic transmission by raising the rear wheels and leaving the front wheels in contact with the road.

. then raise the vehicle

Roadside Repairs

os

Front towing hook

ca pala AQ SN : SS SSS , See Fe el a

—

Location

an

points under vehicle for axle (safety) stands. Also shown are the front and rear towing eye locations. Locate wooden blocks for protection when lifting at points indicated

U

|

\

DO NOT use for towing Mites

(aes

Towing hook

Towing hook

ae

4

Front and rear tow

hook

locations

o10

Roadside Repairs

Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

v

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

v

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

v

lf the battery is being jump-started

v

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out peayties of trouble, but you. must correct HINT whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by

repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

¥

|

é

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

2

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

A

q I I i

to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

ory

4

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

S| St ee

eee

|

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Routine Maintenance © oe11

For information applicable to later models see Supplement at end of manual The routine maintenance instructions listed are basically those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. They are sometimes supplemented by additional maintenance tasks proven to be necessary. The maintenance intervals recommended are those specified by the manufacturer. They are necessarily something of a compromise, since no two vehicles operate under identical conditions. The DIY mechanic,

Weekly, or before a long journey Check engine oil level (Chapter 1)

Check coolant level (Chapter 2) Check automatic transmission fluid level (Chapter 7) CILICI Check brake fluid level (Chapter 9) Check tyre pressures (cold). Include spare (Chapter 10) EeCheck operation of all lights and horn, and add a screen wash to the washer bottle reservoirs (Chapter 12) |_| Check battery test indicator colour (if applicable) (Chapter 12)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months — whichever comes first [_] Renew erngine oil and filter (Chapter 1)* [|] Check cooling system drivebelt(s) condition and tension (Chapter 2) Check idle speed and mixture settings (Chapter 3) Check exhaust system for condition and security (Chapter 3)

Clean and regap spark plugs Check ignition timing ILI Check clutch adjustment (Chapter 5) Check manual gearbox oil level (Chapter 6) & Check driveshafts for condition and security(Chapter 8) (| Braking system (Chapter 9) Check braking system adjustment(s) (Chapter 9) Check front pads for wear (Chapter 9) [ ]Check braking system for leaks (Chapter 9) _] Check Suspension and steering for condition and security (Chapter 10) Check power steering fluid level (Chapter 10) Check tyres for wear (Chapter 10)

[] Lubricate hinges and locks (Chapter 11)

-] Check drain channels are clear (Chapter 11) *Nissan state that, if an oil filter which is not of Nissan Premium type

is used, the oil and filter should be renewed every 6000 miles

(10 000 km) or six months, whichever comes first

who does not have labour costs to consider, may wish to shorten the service intervals. Experience will show whether this is necessary. Where the vehicle is used under severe operating conditions (extremes of heat or cold, dusty conditions, or mainly stop-start driving), more frequent oil changes may be desirable. If in doubt consult your dealer.

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months — whichever comes first In addition to the 9000 mile (15 000 km) maintenance requirements Check valve clearances (Chapter 1) Clean positive crankcase ventilation system hoses and check operation (Chapter 1)

Check cooling system hoses for condition and security _ (Chapter 2) |_| Renew fuel filter (Chapter 3) __]| Check vacuum hoses for condition and security (Chapter 3) Check automatic temperature control operation (Chapter 3) Renew spark plugs (Chapter 4) Renew manual gearbox oil (if used in adverse conditions) (Chapter 6) Renew automatic transmission fluid (if used in adverse conditions) (Chapter 7) Renew brake fluid (Chapter 9) _ |Check rear shoes for wear (Chapter 9) |_|] Check front wheel alignment (Chapter 10) Check seat belts for condition and security (Chapter 11)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 2 years — whichever comes first In addition to the 18 000 mile (80 000 km) maintenance requirements

(_] Renew coolant (Chapter 2) _] Check fuel lines for condition and security (Chapter 3) Renew air cleaner element (Chapter 3) Check ignition system wiring for condition and security (Chapter 4) [_] Check servo and vacuum hoses for condition and security (Chapter 9)

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) Renew timing belt (Chapter 1)

0°12

Routine Maintenance

Under bonnet view - 1.6 engine

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Coolant filler cap 3 Power steering pump reservoir 4 5 6 7

Wiper/washer fluid filler/reservoir Engine oil filler cap Brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir Alternator

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Carburettor (air cleaner removed) Heater coolant hoses Fuel filter Windscreen wiper motor Headlight dim-dip switch unit Front suspension strut upper mounting Ignition coil

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Starter motor Ignition distributor Battery Clutch release lever Cooling fan Coolant thermostat Exhaust manifold

Routine Maintenance

013

View of front underside of vehicle 1.6 engine with manual gearbox

Radiator drain plug Gearbox drain plug and level/filler plug Driveshaft and gaiter Brake caliper unit Transverse link arm Gear selector control rod Stabilizer (anti-roll) bar Exhaust system — front ODOANDAAWNH™= Steering tie-rod

Steering gear unit Sump drain plug

Oil filter

View of rear underside of vehicle 1.6 Hatchback

Hydraulic brake lines and fuel lines Fuel tank drain plug Fuel check valve Front and rear parallel links Rear towing eye Fuel filler pipe Exhaust system — rear Rear strut Radius rod Handbrake cable ~~SOANDaAAWNH-

0014

Routine Maintenance

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Nissan garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Official appointed Nissan garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg, complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim, etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty non-standard components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the stores person your vehicle’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ parts along for positive identification. Remember that some parts are available on a factory

exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your vehicle for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your vehicle (eg, spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, . exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals

shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis —- this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers The chassis number is located on a plate in the rear corner of the engine compartment. The number is repeated on the bulkhead upper panel in which it is stamped. The engine number is stamped into a machined inclined surface on the crankcase just below the distributor mounting (photo). The manual transmission serial number is located on the clutch release arm, and the automatic transmission serial number on the upper casing surface.

Vehicle identification number

(Chassis number) Vehicle identification plate

Tyre

Engine number location

pressure chart

Vehicle identification number and tyre pressure chart locations

On RHD models, tyre pressure chart is on driver’s pillar

Manual transaxle number

RN4F30A and RS5F30A rs

A

Automatic transaxle

V2

number

7

Se a

RNY KK

Engine number locatoin (shaded)

Transmission number locations

plate

Routine Maintenance

0°15

Tyre conditon and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration,

particularly

at a certain

speed

(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.


GIS bic, BS OI SIR tech ica ene A ec ee (CAI SLUIGIUGT Giese cor AIR ca EO olieatre Ei AEE ease evlolstanikamumyecscrc ri tecesp at My ae et te lata NA a Sap A eectcsc:ses aheeen eee Se

13 to 16 6 to 7 26 to 36

Buel taniKctilenpl PeitOIDOdy 2 astaie. =o cone oars cecil ans aeeeralers Exhalisthidownpipe tOnmantOldi acs: cta slncyemseala aeeeretens cuereeere tet e troree

3.4 to 4.2 28 to 33

10 to 12 4to5 19 to 27 2.5 to: 3.1 20 to 24

1 General description

Air temperature bimetal

Cold air

‘Temperature sensor

The fuel system is the same on all models in the range, comprising a rear mounted fuel tank, a mechanical diaphragm fuel pump, and a dual barrel downdraught carburettor with an automatic choke. The fuel pump is operated by a cam on the engine jackshaft. The carburettor air cleaner has a dry paper element and the unit also contains an air temperature control in the intake. By regulating the air temperature in the unit, the carburettor is able to operate more efficiently, the warm-up period is reduced and there is an

overall increase in efficiency to improve emission control. When working on, or disconnecting any part of the system, particular care must be taken to guard against the risk of fire (see Safety First for general guidelines at the start of this manual).

Unleaded fuel Vacuum

motor

LAE Air bleed valve

tte intake manifold

Temperature sensor

Fig. 3.1 Air cleaner unit showing the air temperature control components (Sec 1)

It is likely that Nissan Sunny models can be run on unleaded fuel following suitable modifications. No adjustment information was available at the time of writing so refer to your dealer for guidance.

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

3¢3

3.2A Air cleaner cover wing nut. Note cover alignment arrows

3.2B Removing the air cleaner element

3.4A Air cleaner case retaining bolts to rocker cover

3.4B Air cleaner intake duct retaining bolts to front panel

3.5A Identify the hose connections...

3.5B ... then lift the air cleaner from the carburettor...

2 Routine maintenance

clean and dry before fitting the new element into position, then refit the cover; aligning the arrows on the cover and case (see photo

WOK)3.2A).

The following maintenance procedures must be made at the intervals given in Routine Maintenance at the start of this manual. 1 Check and if necessary adjust the engine ‘idle speed and mixture settings (Section 11). 2 Check the condition and security of the fuel lines. Repair or renew as necessary. 3 Renew the air cleaner element at the specified intervals, or before if the vehicle is used in adverse conditions (city traffic or a dusty environment) (Section 3). 4 Renew the in-line fuel filter (Section 5). 5 Check the air temperature control valve for satisfactory operation (Section 4). 6 Inspect the exhaust system for any signs of leaks and/or damage and, if required, make the necessary repairs (Section 16).

3 Air cleaner servicing, removal and refitting

x

EN N

1 The air cleaner fitted to all models in the range contains a dry paper type element ‘which must be renewed at the specified intervals given at the start of this manual (see Routine Maintenance). 2 To renew the element, unscrew the wing nut and lift the air cleaner cover away. Lift out the air cleaner element (photos). 3 Wipe out the air cleaner casing so that it is

4 To remove the air cleaner casing, remove the cover and element as_ previously described, then undo the casing and intake duct retaining bolts (photos). 5 Carefully lift the air cleaner away from the carburettor and detach the vacuum hoses and the flexible hot air hose from the manifold (photos). Also detach the throttle cable from its retaining clip on the top of the intake duct as the casing is removed. 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.

3.5C ... and the hot air hose from the exhaust manifold cowl

that warm

4 Air temperature control (ATC) system - checking 4 Check the condition and security of the vacuum hoses and repair or renew any which are perished or cracked. 2 Detach the extension duct from the air cleaner intake duct. 3 Detach the vacuum hose from the

air is drawn from the hot air intake

port on the underside of the air cleaner duct. As the engine warms up, the valve opens to allow cooler air through, and the hot air intake

is closed off. This can be observed by holding a mirror at the end of the duct (Fig. 3.2). Vacuum

Carburetor

temperature sensor on the air cleaner duct.

Start the engine from cold, allow it to idle and check that there is a strong vacuum through the hose. If not, check the hose for blockage or a leak, and repair as necessary. Reconnect the vacuum hose. 4 When the engine is cold, the valve in the intake duct will be in the closed position so

Hot air

Fig. 3.2 Warm air flow circuit with the intake duct valve shut (Sec 4)

3e4

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems t

Air cleaner

Orifice

Idle compensator

To intake |manifold

ae

Fig. 3.3 Sectional view of the idle compensator (Sec 4)

Fig. 3.4 Testing the idle compensator (Sec 4)

5 If the valve operates in a satisfactory manner, reconnect the extension duct. If the valve is defective, the air cleaner unit complete will probably be in need of replacement, but first check the idle compensator. 6 The idle compensator device is fitted in the air cleaner body. The compensator is operated by a bi-metal strip in accordance

dryer whilst checking the temperature with a thermometer. The engine should be at its normal operating temperature for this test, the air cleaner cover removed and the warm air directed at the device whilst the compensator temperature is checked with the thermometer, held as close as possible to the compensator

with the intake air temperature. At temperatures below 55°C (131°F) the air valve is shut, but as the air temperature rises above intermediate temperatures, the valve can be

8 If the compensator is in good condition, it should be open allowing air to pass through it and this will be obvious by the hissing sound. During this check take care not to damage the compensator bi-metal strip.

open or closed (Fig. 3.3).

9 If defective, renew the air cleaner unit.

65°C (149°F), the valve should open fully. At

ay

7 The

operation

of

this

device

can

be

checked by warming it with hot air from a hair

Except E16i engine model and E16S engine with A/T model Lock ey aes)

(Fig. 3.4).

10 On completion. refit the air cleaner or its cover, as the case may be.

E16S engine with A/T model (see Supplement)

‘)

5.1 In-line fuel filter

5 Fuel filter—renewal

KCC

1 An in-line type of fuel filter is used (photo). 2 Disconnect the hoses from the filter, and remove the unit from the clip. 3 Fit the new filter then start the engine and check for leaks.

6 Fuel tank -

\

removal. repair and refitting

x

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel tank drain plug, undo the plug and drain the fuel from the tank. Store the fuel in a safe place. 3 Jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands. 4 Undo the retaining nut and remove the handbrake cable support bracket from the forward edge of the fuel tank. 5 Undo the retaining clips and detach the fuel

filler hose and the vent hose (photo). Fuel tank gauge unit

6 Disconnect the hoses and wiring from the fuel transmitter as described in the following Section. 7 Support the tank and then unscrew the mounting bolts from floor. Carefully lower the

Fuel

: O-ring

tank

pump assembly

and

manoeuvre

it clear.

It may

be

necessary to remove or partially disconnect the exhaust system and/or the rear radius rod to allow the tank to be removed. 8 Serious damage to the fuel tank will

Fuel check valve

Fig. 3.5 Fuel tank and associated fittings (Sec 6)

6.5 Fuel filler and vent hoses

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

6.10 Fuel filler pipe flange nuts

6.11 Fuel check valve

necessitate its renewal. Although minor damage or leaks may be repairable, such tasks must be entrusted to a specialist. Consult a Nissan dealer for advice if in doubt. 9 The removal of sediment or sludge can be carried out after first having removed the tank transmitter unit. Pour in some paraffin, or petrol, and shake the tank vigorously. Empty the tank and repeat the operations as many times as is necessary to clean it and then give a final rinse with clean fuel. 10 The fuel filter and vent hoses can be removed if required by undoing the four retaining nuts from the top flange, then lowering them from the car (photo). 11 If required, the fuel check valve hose can be removed by detaching the hose and withdrawing the unit from the bracket on the fuel tank. This valve must be renewed if it is suspected of malfunction (photo). 12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Top up the fuel tank on completion and check for any signs of leakage from the tank and hose connections.

loosen the retaining clips and detach the hoses from the transmitter (photo). 4 Untwist the transmitter unit by locating a screwdriver or a suitable flat piece of metal

7 Fuel level transmitter and

gauge - removal and refitting

VU x

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Tilt the rear seat squab forward, then fold back the floor covering to gain access to the transmitter cover plate. Remove the cover plate, then disconnect the transmitter wires at their in-line connector. 3 Mark the hoses for identification, then

7.3 Fuel level transmitter and hose connections

FFuel-vapor separator

@ >. 7

across the top of the unit between castellated sections and unscrew it. Withdraw the transmitter unit with care as it is easily damaged. 5 The fuel gauge can be removed after withdrawing

the

instrument

panel,

ao

Return (To fuel tank)

‘_

as

described in Chapter 12. 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Renew the transmitter O-ring seal and ensure that all connections are securely made.

8 Fuel pump -

removal and refitting

XS

Fig. 3.6 Fuel pump and connections (Sec 8)

x

1 The mechanically-operated fuel pump is of rocker arm type, actuated by an eccentric cam on the jackshaft (photo). 2 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump, and plug them to prevent loss of fuel. 3 Unscrew and remove the pump mounting nuts and washers and lift the pump from the crankcase. Discard the joint gaskets, but retain the insulator, if fitted (photo). 4 The fuel pump is of sealed type and, if clogged or faulty, will have to be renewed; cleaning and repair is not possible. 5 Clean the pump and crankcase mating faces, use new joint gaskets and bolt the pump into position. 6 Reconnect the fuel hoses, run the engine and test for leaks.

9 Carburettor - description 1 The carburettor fitted on all models is a dual barrel downdraught type with an automatic choke system. The calibration details of the carburettor are dependent on the engine and gearbox type used. The main components are as follows (photo).

9.1 General view of the carburettor

8.1 Fuel pump location beneath the inlet manifold

3¢5

8.3 Fuel pump removal

A B C D E

Automatic choke unit Choke unloader device Vacuum break diaphragm Secondary throttle vacuum diaphragm Fuel inlet union

3°6

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

10 Carburettor - check and adjustments (general) Vacuum break diaphragrm

WEY

The following checks and adjustments should only be necessary if a malfunction or drop in performance and/or economy are noted.

Automatic choke heater bimetal cover

Float level check awwsll Diaphragm for secondary system

Fuel needle valv (en geo,

;

Secondary oe jet

8

Primary main air mal Secondary main air bleed

“Primary main jet

Secondary small venturi

Secondary slow jet +.

y a

Secondary slow air bleed

Be

4

oe

i

Injection isweight

\i

y >t

:

Primary

—~ slow jet Accelerating pump piston

small venturi

Primary slow air bleed

INE

oy

UIA

|

Fuel cut solenoid valve

Throttle opener adjusting screw

_ 09

2)

&

ia oeOe

Lock lever

Throttle adjusting aa Idle aes

beea idle adjusting screw

Fig. 3.7 Exploded view of the carburettor fitted to the E13 engine models (Sec 9)

Automatic choke

Dashpot

2 This is of bi-metal spring type, the heating being carried out electrically. A relay is located within the engine compartment for operating the automatic choke.

5 On certain models a dashpot is fitted to the carburettor to prevent the engine stalling during sudden braking or quick release of the accelerator pedal.

Fuel cut-off solenoid valve

Choke unloader

3 The purpose of this valve is to prevent the engine running on when the ignition is switched off. This is done by cutting off the fuel supply to the idle circuit.

6 This device opens the choke valve plate slightly when increasing the engine speed during the warm-up period to provide a suitable fuel/air mixture which would otherwise be too rich.

Secondary throttle vacuum diaphragm 4 This is actuated by vacuum conditions in the carburettor venturi. The diaphragm is linked to the secondary throttle in order to open it after the primary throttle valve plate has opened through an angle of 48°.

Vacuum break diaphragm 7 This is a double-acting type diaphragm which opens the choke valve plate immediately after cold starting to create a suitable fuel/air mixture in accordance with the prevailing engine vacuum conditions.

1 The float level can be easily checked with the carburettor in situ through the sight glass in the side wall of the float chamber. The vehicle must be standing level when making this check (Fig. 3.9). 2 The fuel level must be maintained at the level indicator index mark on the window. If adjustment is necessary, remove the top cover from the carburettor and adjust the float as described in Section 13.

Automatic choke 3 To make this check. the engine must be fully cold. Do not start the engine. Remove the air cleaner unit (Section 3). 4 Open the throttle valve to its full extent and check that the choke valve shuts properly. Operate the choke valve by pressing it with your finger and ensure that the valve has a smooth action. 5 Ensure that the index marks on the automatic choke cover and housing are in alignment (photo). Check that the automatic choke heater wires are securely connected, then start the engine and warm it up to its normal operating temperature, at which point

check that the choke valve has fully opened. If it hasn’t,

then

check

the automatic

choke

heater wiring for continuity using an ohmmeter as shown (Figs. 3.10 and 3.11). 6 If the automatic choke wiring system is in order, the system relay is most probably at fault. Have the relay checked by a Nissan dealer and renew it, if necessary, ensuring that the replacement is of the correct type (Fig. 3.12).

Fast idle (automatic choke) 7 Bring the temperature.

engine to normal operating Remove the choke housing

cover. 8 Set the fast idle lever on the second step of the fast idle cam (photo) . 9 Check that the fast idle engine speed is as given in the Specifications. If it is not, turn the fast idle screw as necessary, then refit the choke cover (photo).

Vacuum break 10 With the engine cold, remove the air cleaner and close the choke valve plate. 11 Using a vacuum pump as shown, apply vacuum to the vacuum break diaphragm and give a light push on the piston rod to shut the choke valve. Now check that the clearance shown at R11 (Fig. 3.13) is as specified. 12 Now push the piston rod back towards the vacuum break diaphragm and check

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

3¢7

Vacuum break diaphragm

~

Top cover

ee

:

Fuel level should be maintained in 2

Automatic choke heater

Accelerating pump

Oy}

ys

Ye

?

@

——~ lever

%@

a

Accelerating pump piston

a Bee

a0

Accelerating pump

connecting rod

R

a

Secondary main air bleed.

Fig. 3.9 Carburettor float chamber sight glass and level mark (Sec 10)

;

6

| Power jet

his mark.

Diaphragm for secondary system

BW

Fuel needle valve—{ & Primary main air bleed

t

)

SS

Secondary slow jet. J ‘

BZ

|

g

°

§

©, oa

Outlet

i

L

Sgr

e

y

&

»\

aoe

\

Eh

WED ONS =

Ik OIE

:

7

6

aot

@®

99

: oO ®

ox

circuit (Sec 10)

1 Alternator “L” terminal

5 Bimetal switch

2 Automatic choke relay

6 PTC heater (B)

3 Automatic choke cover

7 Bi-metal strip

4 PTC heater (A)

8 Choke valve

Lock lever

DS =

Fig. 3.10 Automatic choke unit electrical

>)
suitable for expert DIY NS or professional x

Specifications General ESVSCOM VIG mre mare Meme CIC TOLCCIamnen emetic

sere asa enter Ree Estey csie tessleeinrn ARI A® Ba eal ae fe crete eteyore ate etl clowtilssewiles elas evra seid 8g

Electronic, with breakerless distributor 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at timing belt end)

Spark plugs (8-valve engine)* 1.3 and 1.6 Electrode gap

Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC 0.8 mm (0.032 in)

HT leads (8-valve engine) 1.3 and 1.6

Champion LS-08, boxed set

Ignition timing (8-valve engine) At idle with vacuum hose detached and plugged:

2° + 2° BIDC 4° + 2° BTDC

Distributor Direction of rotation

Anticlockwise

Air gap

0.3 to 0.5 mm (0.012 to 0.020 in) 10 mm (0.39 in) minimum Manual transmission Hitachi D4R83-30 Hitachi D4R83-36

Carbon brush wear limit

Type number: WE

2 As onal phe cee otkot Globo CO

DIR EOL

RoR

Iona

ee

ge

Automatic transmission

Hitachi D4R83-36 Hitachi D4R83-31

Coil Type number Primary resistance at 20°C (68°F) Secondary resistance at 20°C (68°F)

Hanshin STC-143 1.0 to 1.3 ohm 8.4 to 12.6 ohm

Torque wrench setting

Nm

Ibf ft

Spark plugs

20 to 29

15 to 21

“Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations

4e2

Ignition system

1 General description 1 A transistorised ignition system is fitted to all models. With this system the circuit is switched by an electronic unit (located in the distributor) incorporating a magnetic stator, reluctor and transistor control . 2 In order that the engine can run correctly, it is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension voltage from the battery to the coil where it is converted to high tension voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders many times a second under high compression,

providing that the system is in good condition

is cold,

and that all adjustments are correct. 3 The system is divided into two circuits: the low tension and high tension circuits. Low tension voltage is changed in the coil to high tension voltage by the alternate switching on and off of the primary circuit. The high tension voltage is fed to the relevant spark plug via the distributor cap and rotor arm. The ignition is advanced and retarded automatically to ensure that the spark occurs at the correct instant in relation to the engine speed and load. 4 Centrifugal weights in the distributor advance the ignition timing in relation to engine speed, and a vacuum unit on the side of the distributor controls the timing in relation to engine load.

vacuum valve are incorporated into the vacuum line between the carburettor and distributor (Fig. 4.2 and photo). 6 When working on electronic ignition systems remember that the high tension voltage can be considerably higher than a conventional system and in_ certain circumstances could prove fatal.

5 To assist ignition timing control, and improve engine performance when the engine

(NorFfacc[ony sry |-

A

a vacuum delay valve and a thermal

2 Routine maintenance At the intervals given in Routine Maintenance at the start of this manual, carry out the following operations on the ignition system.

1 Remove the spark plugs as described in Section 6. Renew all four plugs if any are found to be in poor condition. 2 Renew the spark plugs at the specified intervals, even if they appear to be still in good condition.

3 Check

the HT

leads for condition

and

security. Renew if necessary. Wipe clean the inside and outside of the distributor cap, also

the top of the ignition coil. 4 Check the condition and security of all wiring and leads and their connections associated with the ignition system. Ensure that no chafing is occurring on any of the wires. 5 Check and if necessary adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 5.

3 Distributor removal and refitting Condenser

Spark plugs

: L.H. drive model : R.H. drive model

Fig. 4.1 Ignition system wiring diagram (Sec 1)

.

WEG

1 The distributor is driven by the camshaft; the distributor drive dog engaging with a lug on the rear end face of the camshaft. The distributor is mounted in a combined distributor/thermostat housing which is bolted to the rear end of the cylinder head. 2 Each plug lead fitted during manufacture is numbered for identification (although later replacements may not be).

Distributor

To throttle and intake manifold port

Below 50°C (122°F) CLOSED Above 50°C (122°F) PEN

Therma’ vacuum valve cei

Fig. 4.2 Thermo-vacuum ignition timing control system (Sec 1)

1.5 View showing vacuum delay valve (A) and thermal vacuum valve (B)

Ignition system

3.4A Undoing the distributor cap retaining

3.4B Disconnecting the LT leads from the distributor

screws

3.6A Undo the distributor retaining nut

3.6B Distributor drive dog showing off-set slot

3 To remove the distributor, first unclip and remove the insulator cover from the distributor cap (photo). 4 Either undo the retaining screws and

remove the distributor cap and then detach the LT leads (photos), or disconnect the LT ‘leads and the HT lead at the ignition coil if the cap and leads are to be removed

3.8 Refitting the rubber rim seal

Cap.

Carbon brush

ee @—_—__—Rotor

f

Rotor shaft Reluctor

distributor. 5 Make a mark on the slotted flange of the distributor body in line with the mounting stud so that the ignition timing can be reset approximately when the distributor is refitted.

shaft

adjusting screw

Rotor head

with the

Governor spring Governor weight

6 The distributor shaft incorporates an offset slot so there is no need to note the position of

the rotor arm. Simply disconnect the vacuum hose, then unscrew the mounting nut and withdraw the distributor from the cylinder head (photos). 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but align the offset slot with the dog on the camshaft before inserting the distributor. Turn the rotor arm if necessary until the slot engages. If the ignition timing setting has been lost, it can be reset approximately by aligning the crankshaft timing marks (Section 5) with No 1 piston on compression, then turning the distributor within the adjustment slot until the reluctor peak is aligned with the stator post. 8 When the LT leads are reconnected, refit the rubber rim seal (photo) . 9 After refitting the distributor, check and adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 5.

4¢3

Breaker plate

Vacuum controller

| Sal

Roll ak Fig. 4.3 Exploded view of the distributor (Sec 4)

4e4

Ignition system

Reluctor

4.19 Top view of reassembled distributor A B C D

Rotor shaft cutout

Fig. 4.5 Correct relation of the rotor shaft to the driveshaft (Sec 4)

:

4 Distributor — overhaul

N

w

1 With the distributor removed from the engine (Section 3), clean away the external dirt. 2 If not already removed, undo the retaining screws and remove the distributor cap, then disconnect the LT leads at the distributor (see photos in previous Section). 3 Pull the rotor head from the shaft. 4 Extract the fixing screws and remove the vacuum advance unit. 5 Using two screwdrivers as levers, prise free the reluctor from the shaft and recover the roll pin. Take care when levering the reluctor not

Breakerplate alignment notch mark LT wire (black and white is positive) Felt lubrication pad Reluctor roll pin

to damage its teeth (Fig. 4.4). 6 Extract the fixing screws and remove the breaker plate. 7 Undo the retaining screws and remove the IC ignition unit and spacers. 8 Remove the magnet, stator and spacers from the breaker plate. 9 Mount the shaft collar in a vice, then drive out the roll pin and remove the collar and washer from the bottom end of the shaft. 10 Withdraw the shaft from the distributor body. 11 Extract the felt lubrication pad from the recess in the top of the shaft and remove the screw now exposed. Separate the rotor shaft from the mainshaft. 12 If necessary, disconnect the springs and remove the counterweights, but mark the location of the springs with a dab of quickdrying paint. 13 Clean and inspect all components. The reluctor and stator should be unscratched and not distorted, otherwise renew them. If the carbon brush is worn down to its specified minimum length, renew the cap. 14 Apply grease to all friction and bearing surfaces as work proceeds. 15 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, but observe the following points. 16 When reconnecting the counterweight springs, fit the smaller diameter spring first.

4.22 Reluctor air gap check using feeler gauge blade of specified thickness. Stator

setscrews are arrowed 17 Set the relative position of the rotor shaft cut-out to the mainshaft offset groove as shown in Fig. 4.5. 18 Use a new roll pin to fix the drive collar to the shaft. 19 When fitting the breakerplate, make sure that its mark is in alignment with the one on the distributor body (photo). 20 Fit a new roll pin to the reluctor. 21 Make sure that the wiring harness spade terminals are correctly located. 22 Finally, set the reluctor air gap (reluctor peak to stator prong edge) to the specified dimension using a feeler blade (photo). Adjustment is made by loosening the screws and repositioning the stator.

5 Ignition timing — checking and adjustment

S x

1 Run the engine to normal operating temperature then switch it off and connect a | stroboscopic timing light in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 2 Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose at the distributor. 3 With the engine idling, point the timing light at the index above the crankshaft pulley. The notch in the pulley rim should be in alignment |

with the mark on the index which applies to your particular vehicle (see Specifications). | 4 Any difficulty experienced in seeing the — timing marks clearly can be overcome by |

tt

No. 1 cylinder at T.D.C. Fig. 4.6 Ignition timing marks and crankshaft pulley timing index mark (set at TDC) (Sec 5)

Fig. 4.7 Distributor rotor arm at TDC (No 1 cylinder) (Sec 5)

Fig. 4.8 Ignition timing adjustment (Sec 5)

Ignition system

6.12 Fitting a spark plug

6.14 Plug leads are numerically marked for identification

applying a spot of white paint to the pulley notch and the specified timing mark on the index. 5 If the marks are not in alignment, release the distributor clamp nut and turn the distributor in either direction as necessary to align the marks. 6 Tighten the nut, switch off the engine, reconnect the vacuum hose, and remove the timing light.

4 Unscrew the spark plugs with a deep socket or a box spanner. Do not allow the tool to tilt, otherwise the ceramic insulator may be cracked or broken. 5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a

6 Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap — general

good indication of the condition of the engine. 6 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 7 If the top and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is

HUGHindicative

4¢5

adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory stores. 12 Screw each plug in by hand. This will make sure that there is no chance of crossthreading (photo). 13 Tighten to the specified torque. If a torque wrench is not available, just nip up each plug. It is better to slightly undertighten rather than overdo it and strip the threads from the light alloy cylinder head. 14 When reconnecting the spark plug leads, make sure that they are refitted in their correct order, 1-3-4-2, No 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. The original leads are numerically marked for identification (photo). 15 The plug leads require no routine attention other than being kept clean and wiped over regularly. At intervals, however, pull each lead

off the plug in turn and remove it from the distributor. Water can seep down into the joints giving rise to a white corrosive deposit which must be carefully removed from the end of each cable. A smear of petroleum jelly applied to the end fitting of the cable will help to eliminate this problem. 16 Whenever the distributor cap is removed wipe it clean and check for thin lines between the electrodes. If evident, renew the cap as the lines are the result of tracking. eS

rarely necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 To remove the plugs, first open the bonnet, and pull off the HT leads. Grip the rubber end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 3 Brush out any accumulated dirt or grit from the spark plug recess in the cylinder head otherwise it may drop into the combustion chamber when the plug is removed.

that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 8 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 9 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance, as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. For the best results the spark plug gap should be set in accordance with the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 10 To set it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open, or close, the outer electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure if nothing worse. 11 Special spark plug electrode gap

1 The coil is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. It should be kept clean at all times to prevent possible arcing across the high tension tower (photo). 2 To ensure the correct HT polarity at the spark plugs, the LT coil leads must always be connected correctly. Refer to the wiring diagram (Section 1) for the lead colour coding. 3 The coil may be tested by using an ohmmeter. Connect the ohmmeter across the two LT terminals on the coil to check the primary winding resistance, and across the negative LT terminal and central HT tower to check the secondary winding resistance If the readings are not as_ given in the Specifications, renew the coil. All wiring should be disconnected while checking the coil (Figs. 4.9 and 4.10).

7.1 Ignition coil

Fig. 4.9 Ignition coil primary circuit test method (Sec 7)

Fig. 4.10 Ignition coil secondary circuit test method (Sec 7)

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine, and the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this chapter. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled

_ replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is

7 Coil - description and testing

MNx Ry

4°6 Ignition system

Fault finding — ignition system Starter turns but engine will not start Faulty or disconnected leads

_] Faulty spark plug Air gap incorrect Fault in ignition coil eyeFault in pick-up/starter unit

Engine starts but runs erratically O Incorrect timing [_] Fouled spark plug Incorrectly connected HT leads [] Crack in distributor cap or rotor O Poor battery, engine and earth connections

O

5e1

Chapter 5 Clutch For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

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