Haynes Nissan Pick-Ups, Xterra & Pathfinder Automotive Repair Manual 1563923963, 9781563923968

Citation preview

Nissan Pick-ur Frontier pick-ups (1998 thru 2001) Xterra (2000 and 2001) Pathfinder (1996 thru 2001)

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

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vehicles Includes essential information for today’‘Ss more 2complex

3 2233 00007 2347

wWVih. WAUKEGAN PUBLIC LIBRARY

Nissan

Pick-ups, Xterra & : hfinder Peat

by Jeff Kibler and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Frontier pick-ups - 1998 through 2001 Xterra - 2000 and 2001 Pathfinder - 1996 through 2001 Two- and four-wheel drive versions Does not include information specific to supercharged engine models

AUTOMOTIVE PART1381

MEU Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

MEMBER

Acknowledgements Technical writers who contributed to this project include Eric Godfrey and Bob Henderson. Technical consultants include Jaime Sarté Jr. and John Wegmann. Wiring diagrams originated exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Information Services.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 2001 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 396 3 Library of Congress Control Number 00-110806 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 01-400

O- ié¥)

Contents Introductory pages About this manual

0-5

Introduction to the Nissan Frontier, Xterra and Pathfinder

Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-5

0-6 0-7 0-7 0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17 0-18 0-19

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter2

1-1

PartA

2.4L four-cylinder engine

Chapter2

2A-1

PartB

3.3L V6 engine

Chapter 2

2B-1

PartC

3.5L V6 engine

Chapter 2

2C-1

2c

2D-1

2D

PartD

General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

7A-1

PartB

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

6-1

7B-1

7B

7C-1

7c

PartC

Transfer case

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system re Te iEE E Bea

Wiring diagrams

Ee

Index

SR

I

12-1 eee

12-22 a

ee

IND-1

IND

0-4

Haynes photographer, mechanic and author with 2001 Nissan Pathfinder

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways.

It can help you

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

that Section. Procedures,

once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use

decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section

of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward.

and

saved

illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

by avoiding

the expense

the shop

Using the manual

the Step within

that Section.

That

is,

Even

though

we

have

prepared

this

manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Nissan Frontier, Xterra and Pathfinder Nissan Frontier pick-ups are available in regular cab, king cab and crew cab (fourdoor) body styles. Xterra and Pathfinder models are available in four-door body styles only. Frontiers and Xterras are available with an inline four-cylinder engine or a 3.3L V6 engine. Pathfinders are available with V6 engines only. All engines used in these vehicles are equipped with electronic fuel injection. The chassis layout is conventional with the engine mounted at the front and the power being transmitted through either a

four-speed automatic or five-speed manual transmission and driveshaft to the rear axle. On 4WD models a transfer case transmits the power through a driveshaft to the front differ-

ential, which powers the front wheels through independent driveaxles. All models have independent front suspension - Frontier and Xterra models use torsion bars and shock absorbers, while Pathfinders have MacPherson struts. All models have a solid rear axle - Frontier and Xterra models are suspended by leaf springs, while

Pathfinders have coil spring rear suspension. Frontier and Xterra models all have conventional recirculating-ball type steering gear. Pathfinders all have rack-and-pinion steering. Most models have power steering, the exception being base-model 2WD pick-ups. The brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist standard. 2WD Frontiers are equipped with a rear Anti-lock Brake System (ABS). Xterras, Pathfinders and 4WD Frontiers all have fourwheel ABS.

0-6

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), which appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration, is also embossed

on a

plate located in the left (driver’s side) corner of the dashboard,

near the windshield

(see

illustration). The VIN tells you when

and

where a vehicle was manufactured, its country of origin, make, type, passenger safety system, line, series, body style, engine and assembly plant.

attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door or on the door post (see illustration). The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross

VIN engine and model year codes

Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement. On most models, the label also includes the OEM tire sizes and pressures.

Vehicle

Two particularly important pieces of information found in the VIN are the engine code and the model year code. Counting from the left, the engine code letter designation is the 4th character and the model year code is the 10th character. On the models covered by this manual the engine codes are: Frontier and Xterra Digeces 2.4L four-cylinder (KA24DE)

Eta

3.3L V6 (VG33E)

Ts sadeoahes'es catia hve crccathckcadacasteses NMioc Mevetanctasusasvataal eastesvuaneaeese We Beiresccteaveabsas sspavedovastcncencant Ko pitives -oueerya saecesacerste reuseCesmaaeee Win sesabt ceesausssthats cogvcaesbeanmtunsacees (lias ctsoxsty een ccetenee satiate epee ns aee ee

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the driver’s side door end or post

1996 noe 1998 1999 2000 2001

Vehicle Safety Certification label The Vehicle Safety Certification label is

/

the Gross

Engine Identification Number

(EIN) The Engine Identification Number (EIN) on V6 engines is stamped into the engine block on a machined surface just behind the right (passenger’s side) cylinder head. On four-cylinder engines the EIN is located on the left rear side of the engine block, just

Transmission Identification

On the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

;ion

(GVWR),

exhaust manifold.

1 Noone 3.3L V6 (VG33E) Dies 3.5L V6 (VQ35DE)

yf

Rating

below the cylinder head and rearward of the

Pathfinder

The VIN plate is visible from the outside of the vehicle, through the driver’s side of the windshield

Weight

cts Ee

Automatic transmission identification tag - 2WD four-cylinder Frontier

Number (TIN) The manual Transmission Identification Number (TIN) is stamped into the top of the transmission bellhousing. On automatic transmissions, the number is stamped into a tag and fastened to the transmission with a bolt (see illustrations).

Transfer case identification label The transfer case identification informa-

tion is stamped into the top of the case.

4

Per fe

oe

=

a

St

ey

Automatic transmission identification

tag - 4WD Pathfinder

0-7

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: |f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers

Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

along for positive identification.

available and, if possible, take the old parts

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always

“A

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the

habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,

let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

~ as.

Grade 5

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade Hex Nut saint

Identification

gi O

Grade

Hexex NutNu

}

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Identification

.

‘

Ko)

Arabic 9

=

aN

fir

fos

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©)

)

©)

CO)

Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Hex Nut

Hex Nut

Grade 8

con 10 6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

Arabic 10 Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings [eotHaynes] HAYNES

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-8 Fastener sizes For a number

of reasons,

automobile

manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per

inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread

pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or

Metric thread sizes WAG al ti erableacias een crores one eee | see aR eerie ete Nk oe eee Mtl Oicpeieaccee hak eevee osawee eee meee Mate Ee edeoe ee, eee eas meee nee Tee ee ee ee pee

Pipe thread sizes TE ees AR ol. Sse peel» ee 5 Lae tae ee eae Priam A 8s 1: aR ete RE WN EE eT 5 A/D csepantstoe tec tin See Re ate U.S. thread sizes TANS OO Sec. 8. are ee ene BAGS TGs cee hice vec ee ee ee aL seek. Pee aR Ree RCRA Ss eg aie Ye B/G AG aerate Peeeee oie ee BI DA ea ee ot 0 ces ane ee THO 14 we eee TNO OO hee RAG Se ee ee A/D AGpang has Se Ne ae eee ae

Ft-ibs 6 to9 14 to 21

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28

28 to 40

38 to 54

50 to 71 80 to 140

68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to 8

7 to 10

12+t0 18 22 to 33 Pd IOSD

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to9

9to 12

12 14 22 27

to to to to

18 20 32 38

17 19 30 37

to to to to

24 27 43 51

40 to 55

55 to 74

40 to 60 55 to 80

55 to 81 75 to 108

strength of the bolt, which is an indication of

the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and

10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number,

the

greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners,

especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed

to metric.

However,

it

should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) 4~rQThread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches) RL

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P L T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter

———

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have

specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque

value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the com-

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

ponent. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially,

the

bolts

or

nuts

should

be

assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out ona clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or

connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

0-9

Dial indicator set

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum

or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could

be easily damaged.

With

any particularly

stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary,

use

an

old broom

handle,

but

keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated,

the old

gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department ~° or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because

rubber spigot hose, secure

of various chemical

reactions, the

in hoses can bond itself to the metal that the hose fits over. To remove a first loosen the hose clamps that it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint

pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate

it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-10

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Valve spring compressor

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks,

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul too! set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

Repair and overhaul tool set These

tools are essential for anyone

who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby -

5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

Stee! rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can

be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool

cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed,

but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers

and

sockets,

because

they

won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a

panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where

they cannot be impact from other When tools stored properly, time.

Even

damaged by weather or tools. are used with care and they will last a very long

with the best

of care,

though,

tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub-

sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud.

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside.

It is recommended,

however,

that

the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to Service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-13

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting

Dead battery

Booster battery

the booster battery, make sure the ignition

switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red-colored jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery and the other end to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Then connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and the other end of the cable to a good ground, such as a bolt or bracket. Start the engine using the booster battery, then run the booster vehicle at a fast idle for a few minutes to instill some charge in the dead battery. Let the engine idle, then disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection. The vehicle with the dead battery may have to be driven for 20 minutes or more to sufficiently recharge the battery for independent starting.

00G000

=

00-3 HAYNES

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-14

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. NEVER work under the vehicle or start the engine when the vehicle supported only by a jack. The vehicle should be parked on level ground with the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the vehicle is parked alongside the roadway, or in any other hazardous situation, turn on the emer-

gency hazard flashers. If a tire is to be changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn before raising off the ground. Place the jack under the vehicle in the indicated positions (see illustrations). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until

the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled side facing in. Tighten the lug nuts snugly, lower the vehicle until some

AOE

weight is on the wheel, then tighten them completely in a criss-cross pattern and remove the jack.

Towing Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used and attached to the main structural members of the vehicle.

Optional tow hooks may be attached to the frame at both ends of the vehicle; they are intended for emergency use only, for rescuing a stranded vehicle. Do not use the tow hooks for highway towing. Stand clear when using tow straps or chains; they may break, causing serious injury. The manufacturer recommends that these vehicles be towed only by wheel-lift equipment or a flatbed car-carrier. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. In addition to a tow bar, a

safety chain must be used for all towing. Two-wheel drive vehicles with automatic transmission may be towed with the rear wheels on a towing dolly with no mileage

restriction (at posted highway speeds). If the vehicle is being towed with four wheels on the ground, speed should be no more than 35 mph (56 km/h) for no more than 50 miles (80 km), or damage may be done to the automatic transmission. Two-wheel drive vehicles with a manual transmission can be towed up to 500 miles with the ignition lock in the Off position and the transmission in Neutral. Vehicles with part-time four-wheel drive should be towed with the transfer case in Neutral. Towing is restricted to a maximum of 500 miles (800 km) distance.

Pathfinders with all-mode 4WD should only be towed with all wheels off the ground (using a towing dolly and tow truck or a flatbed carrier). If any vehicle is to be towed with the front wheels on the ground and the rear wheels raised, the ignition key must be turned to the OFF position to unlock the steering column and a steering wheel clamping device

designed for towing must be used or damage to the steering column lock may occur.

aot eh

Front jacking location - Pathfinder models

Rear jacking location - Pathfinder models

0-15

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often

eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-SO. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is.a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. bearing wheel High-temperature grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing,

galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants,

is used

for

exhaust

system

and

exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-16

Conversion

factors

Length (distance)

= Inches (in)

= Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

0.0394 3.281 0.621

Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm?) xX. 0.568 thathS7/ XZ O1 X 0.946 X 4.546 Xe Ol

= Litres (I)

US gallons (US gal)

x

Borksis

= Litres (I)

«KK aaniaucnsrecaeas NCA eddGO ee ere acta aoe ese eraioa yuna sageouee ccenah ioerk ZcoasnosmachsafusnsscesaGasuse

KA24DE

146 cubic inches (2.4 liters)

Warpage limits CVINGSh NGA HOsDIOCK SUMACC crassesxerstencussceapessncedevacandesbsssabrexssrdneroexves

@)

FRONT

3.50 inches (89 mm) 3.78 inches (96 mm) 1-2-3-4 1-3-4-2

72031-1-SPECS HAYNES

0.004 inch (0.1 mm)

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the Number One spark plug wire position

Camshaft TPILIST CIOAFANCE (CHADIAY) vecrsenenevev«aneqsavecespvocsupecconcsascosuxceacssezsessynoangesnaté Gamshatt OUrMal CAMCtSN 2. .2.02-20vesusacsacconsasseccrnoesarearstonnsssorsucensanesetens Camshaft bearing inside diameter............scescsssessesrscersesesscessessnesssesees Bearing oil clearance ETI AUS aes ac wes tee tac cases rach atop Wamdnesaniya lh enasesssseseaceapnvetaeneanss SSP VIer Ill Tal ieee een SN a deth ee taeaen as s0ed cuveesyesewnansandabdaasenpaverransedsceense FRUAHOUU CTH Dees eee nen ees Meith ss txarncecickepocinkeskxdeursavevsdintadnden/edenseocerasescs Intake lobe height OOO AINA Oliece. leer cave eceerescassetsnpexaessnnncevaxeiensanvonscseanpnsesdndanstensonescns

EXO) aes MTR ORE La ecb eats hones nerk sain ada yvephenuessunacssvanesvavivinpeersnsdensbereas Exhaust lobe height alll saree ateeweersnsveawater veveteenarsaawapsnusstnscabrerrnesasmaenscocertanentiae OOO e abeacentsvans rinse ee he Raat bea eee ee ouch taneutcanPhasapesvouninewe 20)Os eee

ghoxpin avndandlarwopianeaas dsdsaaseaiennactess e Conccts rags nahaav Rca o ne eR

0.0028 to 0.0058 inch (0.070 to 0.148 mm) 1.0998 to 1.1006 inches (27.935 to 27.955 mm) 1.1024 to 1.1033 inches (28.000 to 28.025 mm) 0.0018 to 0.0035 inch (0.045 to 0.090 mm) 0.0047 inch (0.12 mm) 0.0016 inch (0.04 mm) maximum

1.673 to 1.681 inches (42.505 to 42.695 mm) 1.644 to 1.651 inches (41.755 to 41.945 mm) 1.610 to 1.618 inches (40.905 to 41.095 mm)

1.646 to 1.654 inches (41.815 to 42.005 mm)

0.012 to 0.015 (0.31 to 0.39 mm) 0.013 to 0.016 (0.33 to 0.41 mm)

2.4L four cylinder engine

Chapter 2 PartA

2A-2 Oil pump

0.0059 to 0.0083 inch (0.15 to 0.21 mm)

Body-to-outer rotor ClEArANCE.........eeseeteeeeereeees Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance.............0+ Inner rotor-to-cover CICAFANCE.........ccceeeeeeeeeenees Outer rotor-to-cover ClEArANCE...........eeeseeeeeereeees

0.0047 inch (0.12 mm) maximum

Torque specifications

Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated) 144 to 168 in-lbs eyce Fe tag

16 to 19 perp cieieee

105 to 112

142 to 152

22

29

Loosen all bolts completely 18 to 25

25 to 34

0.0016 to 0.0039 inch (0.04 to 0.10 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0039 inch (0.04 to 0.10 mm)

Bra rare lntakelmanifold)DOltS/MUts cree: ss.cesercecserveserenst cans’cli Exhaust manifold-to-block bolts/nuts ...............++ Oe

Crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolt... Flywheel/driveplate DOIts .......ccceeeeereeeeneeees Cylinder head bolts Seto) 9Ne eee seca ooachr ear are orb Beeson ae eoacecenece Coane

ee

te Soest

Be iePitasty Be

STC aD tetera taceee seca eon rene tos aapenveress aeannas umecs =

ees a

arn ncesiieatestae ests ees Le

eG Rr aie

GUC ON rena cco octets Seocecr bonne barre oar onnsecnecer Midas see tes, Ate enters SHG Ne sores retean cca bursa scraskdeariavsastcxes ctapuesartea SORE CO Tere tre rrerere CaiMShattSPrOCKSt DONS Neorec:..ccceeseussantysscararneanee Se wares teat carandtty nen ataG IGISTESPROCKEMDOITs nccecececcsctercscessssccregteeaneoaaqne Pee tte hse yeaa eD Engine mount-to-mount bracket nut.............064 Ae ee Pea Engine mount-to-frame DOIts .........:cceseeeeseeeeeees era Deedes tattered sns

eS TRUCASTaES SSCL cy tee we stare Brecon oe toast naoyonde ud cvsehoypnins odnkadn> udev eoradsiy«

FaIr RE) (OEM

tateSec eoee crs se be cay cela pian Grea nrnp CoP MRe pias ns enKedugenaned azheuO¥i dassasesonececes

VG33E

200 cubic inches (3.3 liters)

3.602

inches

(91 Ha) mm)

apa VEHICLE

3.27 inches (83 mm) 1-3-5 2-4-6

72031-1-SPECS HAYNES Cylinder location aed distinired

1-2-3-4-5-6

rotation diagram

Camshaft and rocker arms CGaTTTSIAE ICOAVieeareterer epee vnansApaxeanysscurctetrnsensarsansccasdeeseks cynsprosbivrnbs tseei enon POGNCEARELET VALSSICAIL Ga cAI Lite ge ete dav es nas noice es acaunnsassbersnsbsavecanoahvenderedsne PRN SHCEN LLIN ONS CAUTION paces eee te ecnae tel on tapcvasaavesnessncesasiiesasanssabaaghiunavane® BOG Kenan mIctOeshla OH CLOShANICO saapietssncisnuckusatscsnesserversevssenicsbaa¥ossesaseans

0.0012 0.7078 0.7089 0.0003

to to to to

0.0024 0.7087 0.7098 0.0019

inch inch inch inch

0.03 to 0.06 mm)

17.979 to 18.000 mm) 18.007 to 18.028 mm) 0.007 to 0.049 mm) eS

Oil pump Outer rotor-to-DOdy ClEAFANCE ..........sccetecssseesecensesncessecsseenseessenresseseareaes Outer rotor-to-inner rotor tip ClEAFANCE .........ccceeeseeeeeetteeeteteeeeetteeseneraeeess Cover-to-inner gear Side ClEArANCE ......ccceeccseeeeteeteeneeteseseetetseeteeesseseeats Cover-to-outer gear Side CICArANCE.........eeeeeeesceeereeseteetereretseeneetaseaeaes Inner rotor ridge-to-DOdy ClEALANCE ........ceseseeeeeensesesesseseseesteseseensensene®

0.0045 to 0.0079 inch (0.114 to 0.20 mm) 0.0071 inch (0.18 mm) maximum

0.0020 to 0.0035 inch (0.05 to 0.09 mm) 0.0020 to 0.0043 inch (0.05 to 0.11 mm) 0.0018 to 0.0036 inch (0.45 to 0.91 mm)

Chapter 2 PartB

2B-2

Camshaft thrust plate DOIt 0... ccesessscseessssceseneeteenecesesasessenersernenesensenss Camshaft sprocket DOlt ..........cccceccessssessesesseeceteeteeressrsnesseenseaesnesaecesenecnes Crankshaft pulley DOlt............sceccsscessscssssssseseceecseesseesessensenesarceesaceaseneees Cylinder head bolts (in sequence - see illustration 11.21)

SLD OME .cesecccereccecessesreseveceovecsvscvsansvsnsneencazencesteasevesscoushatanessnrasenensnnants

SteD {WO cccccecceseseecesecoecscassevesescsosseatesseassnesanatenncvesscancossenaeaneaesarsnsescsatas

Step three........sccsccecessecssssseversseserenescensensnscsneeneusescasesseseanseuananontocaeatan ca czcea? ecess edasverser copiiindsevsapaaubascrentarsnnas 1.484 to 1.642 inches (38 to 42 mm) NN TSR CIDISIACNNeher detestes hilo avoiccstee site nadeioes Sena codes weansee ay assassin 1.791 to 1.949 inches (45.5 to 49.5 mm) 1.484 to 1.642 inches (38 to 42 mm) 1.791 to 1.949 inches (45.5 to 49.5 mm)

Anchor arm adjusting bolt protrusion - 2WD Frontier (See illustration 4.9) ..........:ccccescssesercessecetsesessteesteensensessrsseesseaseasens Anchor arm protrusion below crossmember - Xterra, 4WD Frontier (See iNuStration 4.9b) ...........ccccccccceseeeneeneereeesssenseseresterseesserseeeeeneees

Torque specifications

0.24 to 0.71 inch (6 to 18 mm) 0.98 to 1.54 inches (25 to 39 mm)

Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Nm

144 to 192 in-lbs 87 to 108

16 to 22 118 to 147

qaactasti22 29 to 40

151 to 165 39 to 54

30 to 39

41 to 53

43 to 58 72 to 87

59 to 78 98 to 118

Front suspension Shock absorber Upper MOUNTING NUt oo... escecesesseseteeeeneeeesenecseereseeeenssessassseseneeeneneneeiy LOWer MOUNTING DOItS ......cecccceseeteesceesseestseeetteceneeseserenseestseeeseeseneenes Strut/coil spring assembly (Pathfinder) Strut-to-steering knUCKIe DOItS/NUtS ........ccseeereeseerereeetseesreseeeeeseeneens Strut upper mounting ALLS atest es needa pees erae aap vi Pew abe casa iaieninn Strut piston rod nut sane HOCU eaI Cli OO taace eet ices eaten antes ves aans nsvedhsnnwnech igensnbvasyeonezaanes SONI IIICHT ULE lieeee eatee nee oie ccc asunse seem chess sn svanasasmaniehag¥enncieacarcahatese eensreteenenessnsreeseseseneeees Upper control arm pivot Dolt NUtS «1...

10

Chapter 10

10-2

Suspension and steering systems Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Nm

Lower control arm pivot bolt nut(s) [=reay nLite ntslale Ies4ite ditahacen cer sore re eeerE-Pep aoe coer dua LeLee ea eran ssrcrcocinr cnoceceecai tate =|pasunccorsace@comeitn-t nat rmLEP Ean SrEe ch cE anor EL ucEEePrET OoroG-ccoo icone acrec uocerccotas [EFvilayi

80 to 105 69 to 96

109 to 142 94 to 130

87 to 108

118 to 147

edss rs se-semnanaeeemeet ereste esnateratiet trol aliml OOlLS/MUtS ieecsees ensionirod-to-COn eseee esonctboosrrncnr: ocoereor soci oneeco.ceerecnnerec TAS uA ele Eee FELT ATONINE eo-torcecneerrnc

36 to 47 84 to 108

49 to 64 114 to 147

Balljoint-to-steering knuckle nut” Woe aeeceer et ccede sscrtceesceeeeeacectexc+=sesascvoncateeyaretceneunanceeavoxercousrtessenusoatne

58 to 108

78 to 147

Lower letdovaniltetec lave |Gi (bee ake n canaeareign pre aca meaocon nce nececocie scenchcrobaaionpsnconeiesartiog rernt a eee cae cass sedee denean ap aarae teen easearace sau dernas ath itiincl ences eres

87 to 141 87 to 123

118 to 191 118 to 167

76 to 94

103 to 127

12 to 16 61 to 76

16 to 22 83 to 103

12 to 16 46 to 65

16 to 22 63 to 88

22 to 30

30 to 40

37 to 50

50 to 68

33 to 44

45 to 60

66 to 88

89 to 108

Torque specifications (continued) Front suspension (continued)

Lower control arm bushing bracket bolts (Pathfinder) .........::ceeeereee

Balljoint-to-lower control arm nuts (Pathfinder)... Stabilizer bar Link nuts senons aneprannsteeneres FerOmtiereclin Glntetiaeectreceetescccs xteenceneatteeesrarcccectsrcar vscec n dacs doepsecwenauensaphemea Bretthititncleroeseonee xcreerers te tin cetces cues octceceusstwaesa Clamp bolts FEFOMTO MAMGUX TON aioeioets tenes cecteenesvsecenrackass arsaeeeavuctieastareartvekrecdenszes demons annes east tlincl eteeeeseercx cree sete ae caesar cic rocs cate veeccesmenaeaamsnatanee AnchoratimackiUsting) DOlt IOCK MUL sa.ctc:vsss:csssnsnanetateetaanneetieetestetccreeeee-ores Torque arm-to-lower control arm bolts/nuts s iaetave NN SEO MALI renee se cee eee eats acs Svs saintdasa ue baka to wentanvonsnvoseedabwaittuetace Xterra and 4WD Frontier nct reettanweytee Siiilail (HAIR CPAIMUILS -seeertactisne eet ewtaesvexwvaceseercbsseepatetonscanucessemite

ARG STOULSH INUbiteessevedstescaessncnsxncecnesveressesdocesteaseeevnonveecceesavensueacerets

* Tighten nut to lower torque figure, then if necessary, tighten a little more to allow cotter pin insertion (but do not exceed the upper torque figure).

Rear suspension Shock absorber Frontier and Xterra

UWpPPehancdilOWer MOUNTING) MUTS s..crcee-cxers-en-saxeeee cevyaqeeaeeattaesreeesne Pathfinder Upper mounting nut/bolt

TIREEHeT ateMa RSIS frat cecesrece ee A pee eer rrececeeed ae Gameeerertaoceete terre ro. TROISFETE 6 CAE on caecrr eR Ke pie e MORATSE R cE RE ac Seas eaertenr pian erat MOO SLAMC CMse tecteseves4 exeauapacee wedecdeasy deeneudenmabinnet saves suittanaedesaranes Lower mounting nut/bolt GO Gsth ROU tN 2 OOO b ierevece ccs csscutentuscsusatezesenexpsoheustrerecteaneseer@nsee PAOLO Mecsrcsnadee cep SA pec Neer ROTATE TELE EY CPE Co EO OE Stabilizer bar Xterra VEUKaIUt Sicaateeeee ats past eateh aes oun. Noisbcceancuntes uns tencesoseescasapacmicesneaccaentess GAN ONS Hse steve vecsecede fara sbessats Ei adeaveatiaescan exaghiveres arcanemee eeaeeeteee Pathfinder Link nuts NIEOise ects chau rar eh pecans us scitvataweesesrea, bs

Coupler shaft

pinch bolt Fluid return line Fluid pressure line * OUNDPressure line support brackets m

Steering gear mounting bolts

securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. Remove the wheels. 2 Remove the under-vehicle splash shield. 3 Remove the brace from the front crossmember (see illustration 3.3b).

4 Note the relationship of the transfer gear coupler shaft to the steering gear input shaft and remove the pinch bolt (see illustration). The protrusion on the rear cover cap should be aligned with the match mark on the housing, and the gap in the coupler shaft must also be aligned with the protrusion. 5 Detach the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles (see Section 21). 6 Remove the stabilizer bar brackets (see Section 3).

7

Position a drain pan under the steering

gear. Remove the banjo bolts securing the power steering pressure and return lines, then disconnect the lines from the steering gear (see illustration). Cap the lines to prevent leakage. Discard the sealing washers that are present on each side of the fittings new ones must be used during installation. 8 Unbolt the power steering pressure line brackets from the front crossmember. 9 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the brackets. Detach the coupler shaft as you lower the steering gear from the vehicle.

Chapter 10

10-21

Suspension and steering systems

24.16 Steering gear details - Frontier and Xterra models A__ B

Intermediate shaft pinch bolt Relay rod-to-

C_

Pitman arm nut Pitman arm nut

D_

Steering gear mounting bolts

24.11 Unscrew the pressure line (A), return line (B) and intermediate shaft pinch bolt (C) 10

Installation

is the reverse

of removal,

noting the following: a) Make sure the rack is centered in the steering gear, and the protrusion on the cover cap is aligned with the match mark on the housing (see illustration 24.4); the gap in the coupler shaft must also be aligned with the match mark.

b) Be sure to tighten all fasteners to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. c) Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. d) Check the power steering fluid level and add some, if necessary (see Chapter 1), then bleed the system as described in Section 26.

Frontier and Xterra models Refer to illustrations 24.11 and 24.16 11 If the vehicle is equipped with power steering, place a drain pan under the steering gear. Open the hood and unscrew the power steering pressure and return lines from the steering gear (see illustration). Caution: Use

25.5a

a flare-nut wrench, if available, to avoid rounding off the corners of the fittings. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamination. 12 Mark the relationship of the intermediate shaft to the steering gear input shaft, then remove the intermediate shaft-to-steering gear pinch bolt (see illustration 24.71). 13 Loosen the left front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and remove the wheel. 14 Remove the inner fender splash shield. 15 Separate the relay rod from the Pitman arm (see Section 23). 16 Remove the steering gear mounting bolts and nuts from the frame rail, then detach the steering gear from the frame (see illustration). 17 ‘If you’re installing a new steering gear, remove the Pitman arm from the steering gear sector shaft. 18 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

Power steering pump mounting details -

four-cylinder engine A B

Return hose clamp Pressure line banjo bolt

C

25.5b

Pump mounting bolts A

19 Check the power steering fluid level and add some, if necessary (see Chapter 1), then bleed the system as described in Section 26.

25

Power steering pump - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b and 25.5c

Removal 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. If you’re working on a Pathfinder with a 3.5L V6, remove the battery for better access to the pump (see Chapter 5). 2 If you’re working on a Pathfinder with a 3.3L V6 engine, raise the front of the vehicle

and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the under-vehicle splash shield. 3. If you’re working on a Frontier or Xterra with a four-cylinder engine, remove the air filter housing and the air intake duct from above the radiator (see Chapter 4). 4 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 5 Detach the pressure line and return hose from the pump (see illustrations). Discard

Power steering pump mounting details - V6 Frontier and Xterra models

Pressure line banjo bolt

B

Pump mounting bolts

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

LH Meee

25.5c A B

Power steering pump mounting details - 3.5L V6 Pathfinder Return hose Pressure line banjo bolt

the sealing washers

C D

Upper mounting bolt Lower mounting. bolt

tis

27.3 Use a small press tool such as this to push the stud out of the flange

on either side of the

pressure line banjo fitting - new ones must be used upon installation. Plug the hoses to prevent contaminants from entering. 6 Unscrew the mounting fasteners and remove the pump from the vehicle, taking care not to spill fluid on the painted surfaces. Note: On models with holes in the pulley, the mounting bolts at the front of the pump are accessed through the holes in the pulley.

27.4 Install a spacer or washers and a lug nut on the stud, then tighten the nut to draw the stud into place

installation 7 Position the pump in the mounting bracket and install the mounting fasteners. Tighten the fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 8 Connect the pressure line and return hose to the pump. Be sure to use new sealing washers on the pressure line fitting and tighten the banjo bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 9 Install and adjust the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 11 Fill the power steering reservoir with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system following the procedure

described in the next Section.

26

Power steering system - bleeding

1 Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels in the straight ahead position, check the power steering

fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches the Cold mark on the dipstick or reservoir. 3 Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick or reservoir. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels

1 2

from side-to-side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir full of fluid as this is done. 5 When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight ahead

position and leave the vehicle running for several more minutes before shutting it off. Recheck the fluid level. 6 Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering system is functioning normally and noise free. 7 Recheck the fluid level to be sure it’s up to the Hot mark on the dipstick or reservoir while the engine is at normal operating temperature. Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

Chapter 9). 3 Push the stud out of the hub flange or axle flange with a press tool (see illustration). 4 Insert the new stud into the hub flange

or axle flange from the back side and install some flat washers and a lug nut on the stud (see illustration). 5 Tighten the lug nut until the stud is seated in the flange. 6 Reinstall the disc and caliper or brake drum (see Chapter 9). 7 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque

listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

28 27

Wheel studs - replacement

Refer to illustrations 27.3 and 27.4 Note: This procedure applies to both front and rear wheel studs. 1

Loosen

the wheel

lug nuts,

Axle flange Spacer

Wheels and tires - general information

Refer to illustration 28.1

the

raise the

vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the brake disc or drum (see

Most vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-size fiberglass or steel belted radial tires (see illustration), or inch-pattern light truck tires. Use of other size or type of tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

METRIC oe SIZES 80 R soait onDIAMETER

P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY C-COMMERCIAL

ASPECT RATIO (INCHES) (SECTION HEIGHT) i4 / ———____— 45 (SECTION WIDTH) 70 75 CONSTRUCTION TYPE SECTION WIDTH R-RADIAL 80 (MILLIMETERS) B-BIAS - BELTED 185 D-DIAGONAL (BIAS) 195

28.1 Metric tire size code

10-23

ship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear. Getting the proper front wheel alignment iS a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however,

use this space to give you a

basic idea of what is involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance

between the front edges of the wheels will be

=t— SECTION WIDTH

Vertical

SECTION HEIGHT

Set

|

eee

ea of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling may be seriously affected. It’s recommended that tires be replaced in pairs on the same axle, but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it’s the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure on all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see

Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they’re bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight. Wheel repairs that use welding or peening are not recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

29

CAMBER ANGLE (FRONT VIEW)

Vertical

>,

D |

Centerline

of Ball

Joint Axis

29.1

Front end alignment details

A minus B=C (degrees camber) D = degrees camber E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches) G = toe-in (expressed in degrees)

10

Front end alignrnent - general information

oe

ee

a

a

Refer to illustration 29.1 A front end alignment (see illustration) refers to the adjustments made to the front

wheels so they’re in proper angular relation-

TOE-IN (TOP VIEW)

10-24 ea

Chapter 10 I

SS

the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in is adjusted on Frontier and Xterra models by turning the adjustment sleeves on the tie-rods; on Pathfinder models it’s adjusted by turning the tie-rod in the tie-rod end to lengthen or shorten the tie-rod. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface.

Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from vertical when viewed from the front of

Suspension and steering systems ER

RS

the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical and this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. On Frontier and Xterra models, camber is adjusted by turning the upper control arm pivot bolts, one way or the

SS

other, in equal amounts. Camber isn’t adjustable on Pathfinder models. Caster is the tilting of the top of the front

steering axis from vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster. On Frontier and Xterra models, caster is adjusted by turning the upper control arm pivot bolts, one way or the other, in opposite directions. Caster isn’t adjustable on Pathfinder models.

When making adjustments to the front end alignment, the caster is set first, then the

camber, then the toe-in.

11-1

Chapter 11

Body

Contents Section ae - maintenance SRE rr hace AcE EE Re ae repair ~ major CRATACIG pect ate te Ree oe casseeehavcadoncees oko ody repair - minor damage Be wreaN eme Nca ah oes ekks bores ee iA CuE actguas eo Bumpers - removal and installation .....:......s.crsccssesccsssseevessecescoreees

Section

Center console - removal and installation a Soca ay nx seFaatscrarad we sa nace uaees Cowl cover - removal calgts HUIS FeUE fo1 0S A Oa ae pe eee eng ne

2 6 5 12

Hood latch and release cable - removal-and installation..............Instrument panel - removal and installation ........c:.cccccssecesseesseeseeeee Liftgate and liftgate glass (SUV models) - removal and ANStaIAUON Peete eepatesin eae eee eee es

25 14

23

Dashboard trim panels - removal and installation ........cccccccccecceees

Liftgate latch, lock cylinder, handle and support struts (SUV models) — removal, installation and adjustment ..............

24

26

Door - removal, installation ANCA USUMOME

Mirrors -removal anc installationi:..ccce.-esset cos meester ees eee

16

20

Radiator grille - removal and installation.........cccccccscsessescsseseserecsees

9

Seats'- removaland installationiz..vis:es-cicsccas teste eee ee eee

29

Steering column covers - removal and installation ............::c0ee0-+ Tailgate (pick-up models) — removal, installation and FCUSUMEME Sagat sche evesen tax c/aped casecws access onectuue cic ceseepeeee rete ety eee Tailgate latch and handle (pick-up models) - removal ANCHINStAlATOM sscee eset eee teens cassettes eee aac eee ee Upholstery and carpets - Maintenance..............:csscesescsssseeesseenees VinivicthiinesimalhitemanGe vec cnes4ecrches aeecteseat caasesceeecooe ees Windshield and fixed glass - replaceMent ..........::ccc0ccceeecceeseceeeeees

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teens .ncsereeeeteeueseteasess

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-57 HOT IN ON OR START

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Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

12-58

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12-60 1 MODELS W/ MULTI- REMOTE CONTROL

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Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

12-62

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Chassis electrical system

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