Haynes Nissan Maxima Automotive Repair Manual 1563923653, 9781563923654

Citation preview

Nissan Maxima 1

72020

Qme;

985 thru 1 992

Haynes Repair Manua Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

Includes essential information for today's

-

.

L.lA.1

.1

more complex

vehicles

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2012

http://archive.org/details/haynesnissanmaxiOOjohn

'

Nissan

Maxima Automotive Repair

Manual by Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member of

the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All Nissan Maxima models 1985 through 1992 ABCDE

(11C11

-

72020) (1341)

ii£SI rtMf

J£A &§&£$£

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park 91320 USA

California

Inc

MEMBER

7

Acknowledgements

We

are grateful for the help and cooperation of Nissan Motor Ltd., for assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Jon LaCourse and Robert Maddox.

Company,

©

Haynes North America, With permission from J.H. Haynes

A book

in

Printed

the

in

Inc. 1990, 1991,

& Co.

1999

Ltd.

Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

the

USA

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright All rights

holder.

ISBN

1

56392 365 3

Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 99-68982

is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omis-

While every attempt

sions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual

5

Introduction to the Nissan

Vehicle identification

Maxima

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety

first!

Conversion factors Troubleshooting

Chapter

5 6 8

numbers facilities

8

15 15 17 18 19 20

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

28

Chapter 2 Part A Engine

63

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

93

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

121

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

136

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

163

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

174

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

185

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

191

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

197

Chapter 9 212

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

233

11

256

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

270

Wiring diagrams

290

Index

300

o o •D re

E '5 re

c re v> en

CO

About Its

manual

this

purpose

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your can do so in several ways. can help you decide what work must be done, even you choose to have done by a dealer service department

vehicle.

It

It

if

or a repair shop;

it

it

provides information and procedures for routine mainte-

nance and servicing; and low

when

We

it

offers diagnostic

and

repair procedures to

fol-

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated.

refers to Section 3

trouble occurs.

hope you use the manual

simpler jobs, doing it.yourself

to tackle the

work

may be quicker than

yourself. For

many

arranging an appoint-

ment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you

When it's necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of

it

feel after

means

in

the

the driver's seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care,

Using the manual is

Chapter. For example, "see Section 8"

in

doing the job yourself.

The manual

in the same same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting

the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs

neither

the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors

divided into Chapters.

Each Chapter

is

divided into

in,

or

omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to

understand.

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution

found. Not heeding a Caution can result

is

in

damage

to the

assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Warning

found. Not heeding a

is

Warning can

result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Nissan Nissan Maxima models are available in 4-door sedan and station wagon body styles. The transversely mounted V6 engine used in these models is equipped with electronic fuel injection. The engine drives the front wheels through either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles.

Maxima

Independent suspension, featuring coil spring/strut damper units, is used on all four wheels. The power assisted rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine.

The brakes are

disc at the front with either

drum

depending on model, with power assist standard.

or discs at the rear,

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process

identify the

component

vehicle

lists

are compiled on a nu-

numbers are

essential to correctly

manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and merical basis, the individual vehicle

in

numbers

required.

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification

Number

number is stamped on the firewall

the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration).

B

Vehicle Identification

in

C

Certification regulation plate

The

several locations on the vehicle

Number (visible

through the driver's side windshield)

firewall)

in

the engine compartment and on a plate attached to the dashboard inside

Important ID numbers and other information can be found

(stamped on

Number (VIN)

This very important identification

D E

Manufacturer's plate Vehicle Emission Control Information

(VECI) label

Vehicle identification

numbers

Location of the engine serial number

Location of the manual transaxle serial number

VIN also appears on the Vehicle

Certificate of Title

contains information such as where and tured, the

model year and the body

when

and

Registration.

the vehicle

It

was manufac-

style.

Vehicle identification plate The vehicle identification plate is attached to the firewall in the engine compartment (see illustration). The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine number The engine serial number is

located on the

left

(driver's)

end

of the en-

gine block, near the transaxle (see illustration).

Transaxle numbers Location of the automatic transaxle serial number

The transaxle

serial

numbers are located on the bellhousing (manual

transaxle) or on the top of the transaxle on the control valve cover (auto-

matic transaxle) (see illustration).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

fall

is

into

as follows:

Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle

maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, They also usually seli tools and general accessories, have con-

venient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from

home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure

numbers

of obtaining the correct parts,

available and,

if

have engine and chassis

possible, take the old parts along for positive

identification.

bulbs, etc.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities be used once. If they are removed, they and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penework for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt trant, let Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed

Maintenance techniques

with nylon or fiber inserts can only

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

lose their locking ability

that will

it

with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

Fasteners

If

Fasteners are nuts,

bolts,

studs and screws used to hold two or more

parts together. There are a few things to

mind when working with some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts

fasteners. Almost

all

of

them use a

keep

in

locking device of

a

bolt or stud

with a special tool

breaks

off in

commonly

an assembly,

it

can be drilled and removed

available for this purpose. Most automotive

machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use

of metric fasteners. Therefore,

it

is

important to be able to

between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 1 3 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M1 2 - 1 .75 tell

x

the difference

25 metric

bolt is

12

mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of .75 mm (the 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly 1

distance between threads) and identical,

and

is

easily confused, but they are not interchangeable.

in diameter, thread pitch and length, metcan also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be

In

ric

addition to the differences

and standard

bolts

Grade

1

used on a standard

bolt.

Identification

Class

most standard

bolts

have slashes radiating

is

an indication

of the

it.

indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt.

Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and

1

0.9 are

commonly used on

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts

from metric hex nuts.

Many standard

side, while metric nuts are of dots, or the higher the

nuts have dots stamped into one marked with a number. The greater the number

number, the greater the strength

of the nut.

marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. Metric studs are also

Grade 8

- metric)

Identification

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Arabic 9 Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

Property Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

CLASS Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength

markings

au-

tomobiles.

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 5

bolt,

amount of torque that can be applied to The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to which

Bolt strength markings (top - standard/SAE/USS; bottom

Grade

Also,

out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the

Grade 5

or 2

facilities

10.9

e © CLASS

CLASS

9.8

8.8

Metric stud length markings

8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

10

It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades through have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread'fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred

2,

it

it

to

as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the

different strength ratings,

same size be sure

(both standard

to reinstall

any

and metric) may have

bolts,

studs or nuts

re-

moved from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

facilities

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These (torque

it

torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and

grade of a fastener determine the amount

Metric thread sizes

Ft-ibs

Nm

M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

6 to 9 14 to 21

9

28 50 80

to

40

to 71 to

140

1

to

of torque that

can safely

12

9 to 28

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes 1/4

12to18

7 to 10 17 to 24

3/8

22 25

33 35

30 34

9 to 12 1 7 to 24 19 to 27

1/8

1/2

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8-16 3/8-24 7/16-14 7/16-20 1/2-13

,

.

5 to 8 to to

6 to 9

2 14 22

to

1

to

27 40 40 55

to

20 32 38 55 60 80

1

to

to to

to

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G L

T

D

Grade marks

(bolt length)

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

30 37 55 55 75

to to

to

44 47

43

to 51 to

74

to 81

to

108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade

marks

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads Diameter

T

D

in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working be applied

Grade 3

to

it.

The

figures listed here are approximate for

Grade 2 and

fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values.

to

Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown

in

the appropriate Chapter.

differential

procedures can be used Initially,

to

If

a specific pattern

is

not given, the following

prevent warping.

the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next,

they should be tightened one

full

turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal

each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. pattern. After

Component disassembly

Hose removal

11

facilities

tips

Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer sen/ice department or a service station.

Hose removal precautions

closely parallel gasket removal precauAvoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, tions.

grab the hose

at the

and

it

forth until

cants

will

is

clamp and

rotate

it

completely free, then

ease removal

if

around the pull

it

off.

spigot.

Work

it

back

Silicone or other lubri-

they can be applied between the hose and the

same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigthis must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not ot. damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed. outside of the spigot. Apply the

if

Component disassembly should be done

with care

and purpose

to

If

help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track

sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characmarks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such is a good idea to lay the disasas a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. sembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compo-

of the

teristics or

It

it

It

nents before removal.

When

removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify

Tools A selection of good tools to

is

a basic requirement for anyone who plans own vehicle. For the owner who has few

maintain and repair his or her

tools, the initial

investment might

seem

spiraling costs of professional auto

high, but

one.

the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained

in

an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can some-

Micrometer set

times cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with

a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not

hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fasten-

particularly

has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing sudaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a nondrying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

when compared

maintenance and

er

if

Dial indicator set

repair,

it

is

to the

a wise

12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Dial caliper

Hand-operated vacuum

facilities

pump

Timing

light

§*

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Cylinder hone

Ring compressor

13

facilities

Brake hold-down spring tool

-*mmmm

Brake cylinder hone

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble atool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use. detailed

Maintenance and minor repair The

recommend

list

the purchase of combination

wrenches (box-end and openone wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. end combined

in

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Battery post

and cable cleaning

wrench Funnel (medium Safety goggles Oil

size)

Jackstands(2) Drain pan

Note:

If

basic tune-ups are going

be necessary

to

pliers

-6

inch

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil

can

will

and

mm to

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major reand are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1 '2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

it

19

mm)

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Reversible ratchet

Combination

it

pairs

Socket set(s)

2x6 inch)

be part of routine maintenance,

quality stroboscopic timing light

combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Feeler gauge set

screwdriver (No.

to

purchase a good

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips

tool

filter

Repair and overhaul tool set

tool kit

should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We tools in this

Tap and die set

Clutch plate alignment tool

Extension- 10 inch Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball

peen hammer - 8 ounce

Soft-face

hammer (plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1 /4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch)

Fine emery cloth

Phillips

Wire brush

Phillips

screwdriver (No. 3x8 inch) screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

14

- vise grip - lineman s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

facilities

purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they

Pliers Pliers

to

Scribe

a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools. often

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16,

3/16-inch)

1/8,

Steel rule/straightedge

- 12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4

A

selection of

mm to

come with

individual tools

10

mm)

files

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Note: Another tool which

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so makes sense it

spect.

Special tools The tools

when not in

in this list

include those which are not used regularly, are ex-

pensive to buy. or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary split

basis.

This

list

and instruments widely and not those special tools produced by the vehicle

primarily contains only those tools

available to the public,

manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder compression

gauge

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation

tools

Buying tools who

repair, there

them

with re-

them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. ting

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out. replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working

facilities

be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old Not

to

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of

Floor jack

For the do-it-yourselfer

to treat

usable condition and store them properly use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putin

antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

maintenance and

Keep them clean and

is just

are a

starting to get involved in vehicle

number

of options available

when

paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this

purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to

start

a ve-

hicle:

a)

Before connecting the booster battery, switch

is in

make

sure the ignition

the Off position.

d)

Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one

e)

The two vehicles

f)

Make

b) c)

in

the vehicle.

MUST NOT TOUCH

sure the transmission

is in

each

other!

Neutral (manual) or Park (auto-

matic).

g)

If

the booster battery

is

not a maintenance-free type,

remove the

vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable to the

positive (+) terminals of

each

bat-

tery.

Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on

of the

the engine block (see illustration).

Make sure the cable will not come into

contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the

engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine runin the reverse order of

ning at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery

order

NOT attached

connection.

to the negative terminal of the

dead

is

battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only

means

of support.

The

vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, you have an automatic, or Reverse you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking if

if

brake.

Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel covring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half turn

er

and trim

is sufficient).

Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust until it fits between the notches in the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking

the jack height

Jacking points

(for vehicle jack)

point

on each side

of the vehicle

(see illustration).

16

Jacking and towing

-For towing hooks

Jacking and support points

Turn the jack handle clockwise the lug nuts and pull the wheel

until

the tire clears the ground.

Remove

Replace it with the spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them

snugly. Don't attempt to tighten

ered or

it

could

slip off

lower the vehicle.

off.

them completely

until

the vehicle

is

low-

the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to

Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross

pattern.

Stow the

tire,

jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can't be raised, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the Ace position, since the steering lock mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle should be towed with

(for floor jack

and jackstands)

off the ground, but they can be towed from the front with wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don't exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 40 miles. Before towing, check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1 ). If the level is below the Hot line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. Release the parking brake, put the transaxle in Neutral and place the ignition key in the Ace position. Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an automatic transaxle from the rear with the front wheels on the ground. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the tow hooks of the vehicle, not the tie-down hooks, bum-

the front wheels all

four

pers or brackets. Safety

and all

local

times.

is

a major consideration

laws must be obeyed.

A

when towing and

all

applicable state

safety chain system must be used at

Remember that power steering and power brakes will

with the engine

off.

not work

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and

lubricants are available for

use

They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

during vehicle maintenance and repair.

Heat-sink grease \s a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat

is

transferred

away from

the module.

Sealants

Cleaners

RTVsealantls one

of the

most widely used gasket compounds. Made

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components.

from silicone,

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-

Anaerobic sea/anf is much like RTV in that it can be used eitherto seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant

the brake system,

nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits

from electrical contacts, restoring clean spark plugs, carburetor

where an

oil-free

surface

is

full

jets,

current flow.

It

can also be used

desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from

compoconnectors and

electrical

nents such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical fuse blocks.

to

voltage regulators and other parts

it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

is air

curing,

irregularities,

and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together.

Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic and vacuum lines. is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape. fittings

It

They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used

to

remove grease from the They can be sprayed

outside of the engine and from chassis components. or

RTV

brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed

off

either with water

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion

or solvent.

in

fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually

copper and graphite

is

used

for

made

with

exhaust system and exhaust

manifold bolts.

Lubricants Motor oil\s the

lubricants,

lubricant formulated for

use

in

engines.

It

normally con-

wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. tains a

Gear oil is designed

to

be used

in differentials,

and other areas where high-temperature

manual transmissions

lubrication

is

required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant.

White grease\s a heavy grease

for

metal-to-metal applications where

water

is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -1 00 to + 1 90-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube

a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. is

Silicone lubricants are used

to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl

and nylon

parts.

ignition switch.

teners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treat-

ments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid'is

can withstand the brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by specially formulated hydraulic fluid that

heat and pressure encountered

water or

dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive doors,

in

windows and trunk

Undercoating signed

to protect

rosion.

It

is

is

lids.

used to bond weatherstripping around is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

It

a petroleum-based,

substance that

is

de-

also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of

the vehicle. to help protect

faces from the weather. Different types of paint

painted and plated sur-

may

require the use of

dif-

wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide ferent types of

such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes. variety of chemicals

rusted and corroded fas-

tar-like

metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from cor-

Waxes and polishes are used

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the

Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen,

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from viand cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren't removed on a regular basis. brating or working loose

Safety

first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can

observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle. failure to

Essential

DOs and DON'Ts

DON'T

on

a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheei lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. rely

Always

try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to

help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander,

bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make adequate

sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating for the job.

DO get someone to

check on you periodically when working alone on

a vehicle.

DO carry out work

in a logical sequence and make sure that everything assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. is

correctly

Fire

Remember

at

all

times that gasoline

is

highly flammable. Never

smoke

have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. or

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than pit with possibly lethal results.

air, will

concentrate

in

the

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the battery. The battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before systems. caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the bat-

working on the If

tery

fuel or electrical

possible, loosen the

may

filler

burst.

Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power

tool, inspection light, etc.,

operates on household current, always

which

make

sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Secondary A

ignition

system voltage

severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion factors Length (distance) X X X

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

3

=

(mm)

(m) Kilometres (km)

(cc;

cm 3

)

= Litres = US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres X 4.546 = Litres X 1.201 = US gai.ons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres X X

1.137 1.201

(I)

X X X

0.0394

X X

0061

X

= = =

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

C.88 0.833

= = = =

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

3.281 0.621

'.76

X

(I) '

gallons (US gal)

Ounces Pounds

1.609

Millimetres

= Metres

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres X 0.568 = Litres (I)

)

Mass

=

(capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US

25.4 0.305

(I)

3

)

X X X X

1.057 0.22

= US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp

0.833 0.264

= Imperial gallons (Imp = US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

0.225

X

14.223

gal) gal)

(weight) (oz) (lb)

X X

28.35 0.454

X X X

0.278 4.448

X

0.070

Grams

(g)

Kilograms (kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

(ozf; oz) (Ibf;

lb)

(N;

0.1

= Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force

(kgf; kg)

3.6 9.81

=

Ounces-force

= Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

(ozf; oz) (Ibf:

lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

0.068

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

X

14.696

(psi; lbf/in

X

0.069

=

X

Bars

14.5

(psi; lbf/in

)

X

6.895

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=

lb/in

2 ;

X

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm

X

98.1

=

X

0.868

(psi; lbf/in

)

2 ;

2 )

per square inch

lb/in

2 )

per square inch

lb/in

2 )

Pounds-force per square inch

2

;

;

= Pounds-force

2

Kilopascals (kPa)

2

= Pounds-force

)

Pounds-force per square inch 2

X

=

)

2

Pounds-force per square inch 2

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm = Atmospheres (atm) ;

Pounds-force per square inch 2

=

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)

= Pounds-force

(kgf

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

X

0.113

= Newton metres (Nm)

X

8.85

X

0.083

=

X

12

= Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in; lb in)

inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

0.138

=

Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)

X

7.233

= Pounds-force

= Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

feet (Ibf

ft;

lb ft)

ft;

lb

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

X X

1.356 0.102

(kgf

ft)

m; kg m)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

X

745.7

X

1.609

= Watts

(W)

= Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.354 = X 0.425 =

Kilometres per Kilometres per

litre

(km/I)

litre

(km/I)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit •It is

'C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade: °C)

common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

where

kilometres

(II

'

100km),

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine runs with oil pressure light on Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine stumbles on acceleration Engine surges while holding accelerator steady Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

off

15 18 3 4 14 8

9 10 2 17 13 6 11

12 1

7

16

acceleration or uphill Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in

engagement

Symptom

Section

Knocking noise at low speeds Leaks lubricant Locked in Second gear Noise most pronounced when turning Noisy in all gears Noisy in Neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear Slips out of gear Vibration

41

50 51

42 48 46 47 49 45

Automatic transaxle Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral Fluid leakage General shift mechanism problems Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

56 52 54 53 57

55

5

Driveaxles

Engine

Alternator light

Battery

system

electrical

will

fails to

Clicking noise in turns

go out

20 19

not hold a charge

Alternator light

fails to

come on when key

is

turned on

Shudder

or vibration during acceleration

Vibration at highway

speeds

58 59 60

21

Brakes Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

22 23

Cooling system Coolant loss External coolant leakage Internal coolant

leakage

Overcooling

Overheating Poor coolant circulation

28 26 27 25 24 29

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) Dragging brakes Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle Grabbing or uneven braking action Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Parking brake does not hold

68 69 63 66 65 64 67 62 70

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

61

Suspension and steering systems Clutch Clutch pedal stays on floor

39

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in

vehicle speed)

Fluid in area of

master cylinder dust cover and on pedal

Cupped

Erratic steering

31

Excessive pitching and/or

32 36 40 38 33

or very little resistance Transaxle rattling (clicking) Unable to select gears

30 37 34

Manual transaxle Clicking noise

in

turns

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

44 43

72 77 82 79

tires

35

on release cylinder Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged High pedal effort Noise in clutch area Pedal feels spongy when depressed Pedal travels to floor - no pressure Fluid

Abnormal or excessive tire wear Abnormal noise at the front end

when

braking

around corners or

rolling

during braking

Excessive play or looseness in steering system Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge Hard steering Poor returnability of steering to center Rattling or clicking noise in rack

and pinion

Shimmy, shake or vibration Suspension bottoms Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side

Wander or poor steering stability Wheel makes a thumping noise

80 86 84 83 75 76 87 74 81

85 71

78 73

21

Troubleshooting This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the Chapter and/or Section which deals with the

problem.

Remember that art

successful troubleshooting

practiced only by professional mechanics.

It

is

not a mysterious black

is

simply the result of the

knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are exempt from such oversights.

4

Engine hard to

start

when

clogged (Chapter

hot

1

Air filter

2

Fuel not reaching the fuel injection system (Chapter

3 4

Corroded battery connections, especially ground (Chapter Worn starter motor (Chapter 5).

1 ).

4). 1

]

right

5

Starter

motor noisy or excessively rough

in

-

always establish a clear idea of why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check the other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just replace one fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system. Finally,

engagement

1

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter

2

Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).

6

1

5).

Engine starts but stops immediately Loose

or faulty electrical connections at crank angle sensor, coil or

alternator (Chapter 5).

(Chapters 1 and 4). between the intake manifold/plenum and

2

Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s)

3

Vacuum

throttle

leak at the gasket

body (Chapters

and

1

4).

Engine 7 1

Engine

will

not rotate

when attempting

1

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter

2

Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter

3

Automatic transmission not completely engaged

in

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring

5 and 12). Starter motor pinion 5

jammed

in

in

Park (Chapter

Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).

8 9

Ignition switch faulty

Oil

pan gasket and/or

Oil

pressure sending

3 4

Cylinder head covers leaking (Chapter

5

Oil

Engine

7)

5).

8

Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 1

(Chapter 12).

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth

Engine rotates but

will

worn or broken (Chapter

5).

2 3 4 5

not start

6 7 8

1

Fuel tank empty.

2

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter

3

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter

4

Leaking

fuel injector(s), faulty cold start valve, fuel

Fuel not reaching fuel

or other fuel injection

Ignition

7

Worn,

8

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring

faulty or incorrectly

in

1 ).

the starting circuit (Chap-

9

Faulty crank angle sensor (Chapter

1

Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition

1

3

housing leaking (Chapter

2).

Engine lopes while

idling or idles erratically

Vacuum leakage (Chapters 2 and Leaking

EGR

Air

clogged (Chapter

filter

Fuel

pump

valve (Chapter

4).

6).

1 ).

not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system

4).

Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). Timing belt and/or sprockets worn (Chapter Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). Throttle

body ports clogged (Chapter

2).

4).

Engine misses

at idle

speed

5).

1

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

3 4

Vacuum

5

Uneven

leaks (Chapter

1 ).

1 ).

1).

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

1 ).

or low compression (Chapter 2).

coil or faulty coil

5).

Engine hard to

start

when

cold 1

2

2).

2).

2

10 3

seals leaking (Chapter

1 ).

ter 5).

(Chapter

2).

2).

problem (Chapter 4).

components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). gapped spark plugs (Chapter

6

washer leaking (Chapter

pump, pressure 9

rail,

bolt

(Chapter

5).

regulator, etc. (Chapter 4).

5

oil

pump

(Chapter

2

oil

unit leaking

the starting circuit (Chapters

flywheel ring gear (Chapter

6 7

pan drain

1

2 1 ).

1 ).

or clutch not completely depressed (Chapter 8).

4

puddle under engine

Oil

to start

Battery discharged or low (Chapter

Injector(s) leaking

5

Crank angle sensor

(Chapter rotor

1 ).

4).

carbon tracked (Chapter

Fuel filter/injectors clogged and/or impurities

(Chapter 1). Low fuel output 2

Malfunctioning fuel system (Chapter 4). Faulty cold start injector (Chapter 4).

4

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

5).

at the injector(s)

(Chapter

in

the fuel system

4).

gapped sparkplugs (Chapter

3 4

Faulty or incorrectly

5

Cracked distributor cap or damaged crank angle sensor components 1 and 5).

1 ).

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

(Chapters

1 2

)

22

Troubleshooting

6 7

Leaking spark plug wires (Chapters 1 or 5). Faulty emission system components (Chapter

8 9

Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).

10

Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).

5 Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s), vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4).

6).

(Chapter

intake manifold, air regulator valve or

2).

intake manifold, air regulator

16

valve or

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill

Incorrect grade of fuel.

11

Engine stumbles on acceleration

Fuel injection system 1

2

3 4 5

Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1 ). Fuel injection system needs adjustment or repair (Chapter Fuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4).

1

Intake air leak (Chapter 4).

pump

Fuel

3 4

Loose

faulty

(Chapter

4).

harness connectors (Chapter Defective ECU (Chapter 6). Damaged air flow meter (Chapter 4). fuel injector wire

4).

1

Low Idle

3

Short

Engine

1

Idle

2

on

light

Fuel

filter 1

oil

(Chapter

level

rpm below

1 ).

specification (Chapter

wiring circuit (Chapter

in

Faulty

Worn engine bearings and/or

oil

1

1 ).

2).

pressure sending unit (Chapter oil

pump

Engine diesels (continues to run)

2).

(Chapter

2).

after switching off

stalls

speed

(Chapters

incorrect (Chapter

clogged and/or water and impurities

and

speed too high (Chapter 1 ). Excessive engine operating temperature (Chapter Idle

3).

1 ).

in

the fuel system

4).

5

Crank angle sensor components damp or damaged (Chapter Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).

6

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

7

Vacuum

leak

in

Engine

5).

19

system

Battery will not hold a charge

vacuum

4).

Engine lacks power

1

Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter

2

Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter

3 4

Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).

5

1

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

2

Excessive play

3

Worn

4

Faulty or incorrectly

5

Fuel injection system out of adjustment or excessively worn (Chap-

in distributor

electrical

1).

the fuel injection system, intake manifold or

hoses (Chapters 2 and

14

5).

6).

4).

pressure

5

1

4

oil

4

2

3

and

leak (Chapters 2

Engine runs with

2

18 13

components (Chapter

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady

2

5

distributor

4).

17 12

damaged

or

Faulty emission system (Chapter

Vacuum and

in

Improper or damaged

Worn

4).

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2

(Chapter 5). need of adjustment (Chapter 4). spark plugs or wires (Chapter 1 ).

Ignition timing incorrect

Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter

1 ).

Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging in vehicle wiring (Chapter 1 2).

6

Short

7

Internally defective battery

(Chapters

1

1 ).

1

and

circuit

(Chapter

5).

5).

shaft (Chapter 5).

cap or wires (Chapters 1 and 5). gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).

rotor, distributor

20

Alternator light fails to go out

ter 4).

6

Faulty coil (Chapter

7 9 10

Brakes binding (Chapter 9). Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1 ). Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters

and

4).

8

1 1

15

1

Faulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter

2

Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter

3

Alternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).

21

Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).

Alternator light fails to

1

Warning

2

Fault

in

light

come on when key

2 3

plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters

4

Fuel injection system

(Chapter

4).

in

need

of

1

and

faulty

22

Excessive

circuit,

turned on

dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter

fuel

consumption

5).

adjustment or worn excessively

is

bulb defective (Chapter 12).

the printed

Engine backfires Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator,

1 ).

1

Fuel system 1

5).

5).

clogged

element (Chapter

1

Dirty or

2

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 5).

air filter

1 ).

1

2).

23

Troubleshooting 3 4

Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Fuel injection internal parts excessively worn or damaged (Chap-

ter 4).

5

Low

tire

pressure or incorrect

size (Chapter

tire

Clutch Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very

30

little

resistance

1 ).

Master or release cylinder faulty~(Chapter 8). Hose/pipe burst or leaking (Chapter 8). Connections leaking (Chapter 8). 3 4 No fluid in reservoir (Chapter 1). If fluid level in reservoir rises as-pedal is depressed, master cylinder 5 center valve seal is faulty (Chapter 8). If there is fluid on dust seal at master cylinder, piston primary seal is 6 leaking (Chapter 8). 7 Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8). Collapsed diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 8). 8 1

2

23

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1

Leaking

2

Tank

3 4

Evaporative canister

5

Leaking fuel injectors (Chapter

fuel

feed or return

line

(Chapters

1

and

4).

overfilled. filter

clogged (Chapters

1

and

6).

Fuel injector internal parts excessively worn (Chapter

^v

4).

4).

Cooling system 24

Rear seal

Overheating

2

Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1 ). Water pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter

3 4

Thermostat

1

Radiator core blocked or faulty

grille restricted

(Chapter

(Chapter

32

Fluid

Ignition timing incorrect

(Chapter

Pedal feels spongy

33

5).

34 Faulty thermostat (Chapter

2

Inaccurate temperature gauge sending unit (Chapter

3 4

27

1

2

28

External coolant leakage

Deteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and Water pump seal defective (Chapter 3). Leakage from radiator core or coolant reservoir (Chapter 3). Engine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2).

Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2). Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter

2).

1

Faulty transaxle (Chapter

2

Faulty clutch disc (Chapter

3

Fork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter

4

Faulty pressure plate (Chapter

5

Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter

35

8). 8).

8). 8).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed)

1

Clutch plate worn (Chapter

Clutch plate

8).

soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8). may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new not seated. is oil

3

Clutch plate

one

to seat.

4

Warped pressure

plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).

5

Weak diaphragm

spring (Chapter

6

Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

It

8).

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch on clutch

plate lining,

is

engaged

burned or glazed

linings

Oil

Worn or loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8). Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). Burned or smeared resin on flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter

3 4

Poor coolant circulation Inoperative water

pump

(Chapter

Transaxle rattling (clicking)

3).

Restriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

1 ).

(Chapter

1

2

3).

37

4

7).

2

5

3

Unable to select gears

Too much coolant

Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).

2

8).

Coolant loss

4

1

system (Chapter

when depressed

3).

Internal coolant leakage

3

29

8).

3).

in system (Chapter 1 ). Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3).

1

(Chapter

3).

36

2

faulty

Overcooling

1

1

on release cylinder

]

Air in

2

8).

1

Release cylinder plunger seal

7

26

master cylinder (Chapter

3).

6

25

failure in

and on pedal

3).

Electric coolant fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).

5

Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover

31

1

Release

2

Clutch plate

damper

3

Low engine

idle

fork loose (Chapter 8).

spring failure (Chapter

speed (Chapter

1 ).

8).

8).

8).

24

38

Troubleshooting

Noise

in

47

clutch area

Fork shaft improperly installed (Chapter

1

2

1

8).

2

Faulty bearing (Chapter 8).

3

4 5

39

one

in

Damaged Damaged

or or

particular gear

worn constant mesh gears (Chapter 7A).* worn synchronizers (Chapter 7A).*

Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).* Damaged Fourth speed gear or output gear (Chapter 7A).* Worn or damaged Reverse idler gear or idler bushing (Chapter 7A).

Clutch pedal stays on fioor

bore (Chapter

48

1

Piston binding

2

Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter

in

8).

Noisy

in all

gears

8).

High pedal effort

(Chapter 7A).

1

Insufficient lubricant

2

Damaged or worn bearings (Chapter 7A).* Worn or damaged input gear shaft and/or output gear

3

40

Noisy

shaft (Chap-

ter 7A).*

in bore (Chapter 8). Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8). Incorrect size master or release cylinder (Chapter

Piston binding

1

2 3

49

1

2 3 4

Manual transaxle 41

1

2

Knocking noise

Worn Worn

at

low speeds

driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joints (Chapter 8).

side gear shaft counterbore

in differential

case (Chapter 7A).

Differential

Input gear bearing retainer broken or loose (Chapter 7A).*

between clutch cover and engine housing (Chapter 7A).

Dirt

Worn

50

3 4

shift fork

Leaks lubricant Side gear shaft seals worn (Chapter

8).

Excessive amount of lubricant in transaxle (Chapters 1 and 7A). Loose or broken input gear shaft bearing retainer (Chapter 7A).* Input gear bearing retainer O-ring and/or lip seal damaged (Chap-

Locked

in

Second gear

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration Lock pin or

1

Loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and 7A).

2 3 4

Worn Worn Worn

44

(Chapter 7 A).*

ter 7A).*

gear noise (Chapter 7A).*

51

43

or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7A). Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7A). Shift linkage does not work freely, binds (Chapter 7A).

6

1

Noise most pronounced when turning

Worn

5

2

42

Slips out of gear

8).

differential pinion shaft in case.*

side gear shaft counterbore or

damaged

Clicking noise

in

driveaxle inner

in differential

CV joints

case (Chapter 7A).

(Chapter

8).

interlock pin missing (Chapter 7A).*

Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition so the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic. *

turns

Automatic transaxle Worn

45

or

damaged

outer

CV joint

(Chapter

8).

Note Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer :

or transmission shop.

Vibration

1

Rough wheel bearing (Chapters

2

Damaged

1

and

10).

52

Fluid leakage

driveaxle (Chapter 8).

(Chapter

3

Out-of-round

4

Tire out-of-balance (Chapters

5

Worn CV

tires

joint

(Chapter

1 ).

1 1

and

10).

8).

Automatic transmission

not be confused with engine

axle by

a deep red color. Fluid leaks should which can easily be blown onto the trans-

fluid is oil,

air flow.

To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transaxle housing with degreasing agents and or steam cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its 2

46

Noisy

in

Neutral with engine running

source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak

Common 1

2

Damaged Damaged

input gear bearing (Chapter 7A).*

a)

clutch release bearing (Chapter 8).

b)

leakage are: Control valve cover (Chapters Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and areas

of

1

7)

and

7)

is

coming from.

25

Troubleshooting c)

Transaxle

d)

Speed sensor (Chapter

oil

(Chapter

lines

Brakes

7)

7)

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that: a) The tires are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter b)

Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell

53

Transaxle

burned (Chapter

fluid

c)

1 ).

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

61

General

54

mechanism problems

shift

Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to 1

poorly adjusted linkage are: a)

Engine

b)

Indicator

gears other than Park or Neutral. gear other than the one actually

starting in

on

shifter pointing to a

Incorrect

Front end out of line (have the front end aligned).

3 4

Front, or rear, tires not

5

Malfunctioning

6 7

Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). Loose calipers (Chapter 9). Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad material or disc/drum on one

8

matched

1 ).

to

one another.

Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chapter

drum brake

or caliper

9).

assembly (Chapter

9).

side.

moves when in Park. Chapter 7B for the shift

linkage adjustment procedure.

62 Transaxle

55

tire

Vehicle

Refer to

2

pressures (Chapter

1

2

being used. c)

1).

The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10). The vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.

will

Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied)

not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed Front and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9).

to the floor

Throttle valve cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7B).

63

Engine

56

will start in

Neutral start switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7B).

57

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, in forward or reverse gears

is

.

change the fluid and

needed. fessional diagnose the cause. filter

if

If

Excessive

Uneven pad wear (Chapter

3

Defective rotor (Chapter

64

Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition as described in Chapter 1 Correct the fluid level as necessary

of the fluid

runout (Chapter

1

2

lateral

9).

9).

9).

noisy or has no drive

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid level.

or

Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates)

gears other than Park or Neutral

the problem persists,

have a

pro-

1

Excessive pedal

effort required to

stop vehicle

Malfunctioning power brake booster (Chapter

9).

system failure (Chapter 9). 3 Excessively worn pads or shoes (Chapter 9). 4 Piston in caliper or wheel cylinder stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9). Brake pads or shoes contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9). 5 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for 6 the new material to seat against the rotor or drum. 2

Partial

Driveaxles 65 58

Clicking noise

Worn

59

1

2 3 4

60

or

in

damaged

Shudder or

turns

outer

CV joint

(Chapter

8).

vibration during acceleration

Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10). Incorrect spring heights (Chapter 10). Worn or damaged CV joints (Chapter 8). Sticking inner CV joint assembly (Chapter

1

Out-of-balance front wheels and/or Out-of-round front

3

Worn CV

(Chapters

(Chapter

8).

Insufficient fluid in

1

3 4

67

2

tires

Partial

2 8).

1

tires

and

(Chapters 10).

1

and

1

0).

brake system failure (Chapter 9). master cylinder (Chapters trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).

1

2 3

66

Vibration at highway speeds

joint(s)

Excessive brake pedal travel

Air

and

9).

switch (Chapter

9).

1

Dragging brakes Incorrect adjustment of Master cylinder pistons Restricted brakes lines Incorrect parking brake

brake

light

not returning correctly (Chapter or

hoses (Chapters

1

adjustment (Chapter

and

9).

9).

Grabbing or uneven braking action

1

Malfunction of proportioning valve (Chapter

2

Malfunction of power brake booster unit (Chapter

3

Binding brake pedal

mechanism (Chapter

9).

9).

9).

9).

26

Troubleshooting

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

68

1

2

3

(Chapter 9). Master cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

75

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and rack and pinion assembly (Chapter 10). Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10). 2 Low tire pressure(s) (Chapters 1 and 10). 3

Air in hydraulic lines

Brake pedal travels to the floor with

69

little

9).

resistance

76 1

Little

or no fluid

in

Loose,

damaged

Poor returnability of steering

to center

the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking cali-

per or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter

2

Hard steering

1

9).

or disconnected brake lines (Chapter 9).

Lack

of lubrication at balljoints

and

tie-rod

ends (Chapter

2 3 4

Binding

in balljoints

Binding

in

5

Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10).

Lack

10).

(Chapter 10). steering column (Chapter 10).

of lubricant in rack

and pinion assembly (Chapter

10).

Parking brake does not hold

70

Parking brake linkage improperly adjusted (Chapters

1

and

9).

77

1

2

Suspension and steering systems Note: Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering systems, perform the following preliminary checks: a) b)

wrong pressure and uneven wear. Steering universal joints from the column to the rack and pinion Tires for

3 4 5

6

Abnormal noise

at the front

end

Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapters Damaged strut mounting (Chapter 10). Worn control arm bushings or tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 1 0). Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10). Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10).

1

and

1

0).

1

and

1

0).

for

loose connectors or wear. Front

c)

and

rear suspension

and

the rack

and pinion assembly

for

loose or damaged parts. d)

Out-of-round or out-ot-balance

tires,

78

1

2 3 4

Vehicle pulls to one side

5 6

1

2 3 4

Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 1 0). Wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 1 0). Front brake dragging (Chapter

79

1

Abnormal or excessive

tire

wear

1

Wheel alignment (Chapter

2

Sagging or broken springs (Chapter

3

Tire out-of-balance (Chapter 10).

4

Worn

strut

5

Overloaded vehicle. Tires not rotated regularly.

1

Blister or

bump on

Improper

strut

74

1

2

3

4 5 6

tire

damper

Erratic steering

when braking

Wheel bearings worn (Chapter

0).

1

3

4

Warped

discs or

drums (Chapter

1

0).

10).

10).

80

10).

Wheel makes a thumping noise

2

assemblies (Chapter 10). Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Wheel alignment (Chapter 1 0). strut

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 1 0). Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chapter

(Chapter

1

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

1

Loose

2

Worn

3

73

Worn

10).

damper (Chapter

6

Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 1 0). Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapters

9).

2

72

or poor steering stability

bent rims and loose and/or

rough wheel bearings.

71

Wander

4

stabilizer bar

(Chapter 10).

dampers

or mountings (Chapter Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Overloaded vehicle. strut

10).

0).

action (Chapter

1

81

0).

Shimmy, shake or vibration wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round (Chapter 1 0). Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chapters 1 8 and 1 0). Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 1 0). Worn lower balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10). Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 1 0). Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 1 0).

Suspension bottoms

1

Overloaded vehicle.

2

Worn

3

Incorrect,

dampers (Chapter 1 0). broken or sagging springs (Chapter

strut

10).

Tire or

,

82

Cupped

tires

1

Front or rear wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter

2

Worn

strut

dampers (Chapter

1

0).

1

0).

27

Troubleshooting 3 4

Wheel bearings worn (Chapter

5

Worn

83

1

2 3

Excessive

tire

or

balljoints

Excessive

(Chapter

tire

10).

wheel runout (Chapter 1

1

0).

84

pressures incorrect (Chapter 1 ). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have professionally

in

one place

1

Tires out-of-balance.

2

Damaged

or buckled wheel. Inspect

3

Defective

tire

86

1

2

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter

tire

worn

(Chapter

and replace

if

necessary.

1 ).

wear on outside edge

Inflation

Excessive

Tire tread

0).

aligned.

4

85

1

0).

wear on inside edge

pressures incorrect (Chapter

3 4

87

Excessive play or looseness

in

steering system

Wheel bearing(s) worn (Chapter 1 0). end loose (Chapter 10). Rack and pinion loose (Chapter 1 0). Worn or loose steering intermediate shaft (Chapter

Tie-rod

Rattling or clicking noise in rack

improper lubricant

steering gear (Chapter 10).

1

Inflation

1

Insufficient or

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

2

Steering gear attachment loose (Chapter 10).

3

Loose or damaged steering

3

Internal steering

Have professionally aligned. components (Chapter 1 0).

in

0).

and pinion

2

1 ).

1

gear problem (Chapter

10).

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Contents filter replacement 16 Automatic transaxle fluid change 31 Automatic transaxle fluid level check 9 Battery check and maintenance 10 Brake check 13 Brake pedal height adjustment 19 Chassis and body lubrication and maintenance 15 Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment 18 Cooling system check 11 Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) 30 Cylinder compression check See Chapter 2 Driveaxle boot check 20 12 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement Engine oil and filter change 8 Evaporative emissions control system check 36 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check 33 Exhaust gas sensor (1985 through 1987 models) servicing 28 21 Exhaust system check

Air

checks filter replacement Fuel system check

Fluid level

Fuel

4 25 29

Fuel tank cap gasket replacement Ignition timing

check and adjustment

Introduction

Maintenance schedule Manual transaxle lubricant change Manual transaxle lubricant level check Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Power steering fluid level check Seatbelt check Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Suspension and steering check Tire and tire pressure checks Tire rotation

Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Warning lights general information Wiper blade inspection and replacement

35 37 1

3 32

23 34 5 14

27 26 22 6 24 2 17

38 7

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

c

29

/\

F

n +38 +100

+60

+ 16

Outside temperature range anticipated before next oil change

+32

Engine

WW, W7a

oil

viscosity chart

-18

-29

-20

*

10W-30 10W-40

V 5W-30

Specifications

Recommended Engine

lubricants

and

fluids

oil

Type

API grade SF or SF/CC multigrade and

Viscosity

See accompanying

Fuel

Automatic transaxle

Manual transaxle Brake fluid type

fluid

type

lubricant type

Clutch

fluid

Power

steering system fluid

type

fuel efficient

oil

chart

Unleaded gasoline, 87 octane or higher Dexron automatic transmission fluid API GL-4 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W gear DOT 3 brake fluid DOT 3 brake fluid Dexron automatic transmission fluid II

oil

II

Capacities Engine coolant Engine oil With oil filter change Without filter change Transaxle (approximate)

.

Manual

0(D©

4.5 qts

4.0 qts

@©(D

5.0 qts

Automatic Dry fill

0759H

7.0 qts

Drain and

Ignition

9qts

refill

....

3.5 qts

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

system

Spark plug type and gap 1985 through 1988 1 989 and later Spark plug wire resistance

NGK BCPR6ES-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch* NGK BKR6ES-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch* Less than 25000 ohms

Ignition timing

Manual transaxle

15-degreesBTDC*

Automatic transaxle

20-degrees BTDC*

Cylinder locations (drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

Rear

(firewall side)

Front (radiator side) Firing order

1-3-5

2-4-6 1-2-3-4-5-6

'Refer to the Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment

(it

supersedes the information printed here)

Thermostat rating open open

1 70-degrees F (76-degrees C) 212-degrees F (100-degrees C)

Starts to Fully

Clutch Pedal freeplay Pedal height 1985 through 1988 models

1989 and

later

models

3

mm)

0.04 to 0.12

in (1 to

6.7 to 7.2

(171 to 181

in

6.5 to 6.9 in (165 to 175

mm) mm)

.

30

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Brakes Disc brake pad lining thickness (minimum)

Drum brake shoe

lining

5/64-inch

thickness (minimum)

1/16-inch

Parking brake adjustment

9 to

Brake pedal free height 1985 through 1988 models 1989-on models

7.2 to 7.6

in

Manual transaxle

6.3 to 6.6

in (1

Automatic transaxle

6.7 to 7.0

in (1

Torque specifications

1 1

clicks

(184to194mm) 59 69

to

1

to

1

69 79

mm) mm)

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Automatic transaxle drain plug

1985 through 1991 1992 Manual transaxle drain and Spark plugs Engine oil drain plug

filler

18 to 25 132 to 168 14 1 4 to 22 22 to 29

plugs

6 to 20

Cylinder block drain cock/plug

1

Wheel lug nuts 1 986 and earlier 1 987 on

58 72

1

Introduction

in-lbs

to

to

72 87

in relatively good running condition and the need for additional work be minimized. More likely than not, however, there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, an engine tune-up will be needed outside of the regular routine maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic procedure to help correct a poor running engine is a cylinder compression check. A compression check (see Chapter 2 Part B) will help determine the condition of internal engine components and should be used as a guide for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for instance, a compression check indicates serious internal engine wear, a conventional tune-up will not improve the performance of the engine and would be a waste of time and money. Because of its importance, the compression check should be done by someone with the right equipment and the knowledge to use it properly. The following procedures are those most often needed to bring a generally poor running engine back into a proper state of tune.

kept

will

This Chapter

is

designed to help the home mechanic maintain the maximum performance, economy, safe-

Nissan Maxima with the goals of ty and reliability in mind.

Included is a master maintenance schedule (page 34), followed by procedures dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual

checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compart-

ment and the underside

of the vehicle for the locations of various

compo-

nents.

Servicing your vehicle

in

accordance with the planned mileage/

time maintenance schedule and the step-by-step procedures should re-

maximum reliability and extend the life of your vehicle. Keep in mind a comprehensive plan - maintaining some items but not others at specified intervals will not produce the same results.

sult in

that

the

it's

As you perform

many can, and

routine

maintenance procedures,

you'll find that

should, be grouped together because of the nature of the

procedures or because of the proximity of two otherwise unrelated components or systems. For example, if the vehicle is raised for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it makes good sense to check the brakes since the wheels are already removed. Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows. The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or experienced do-it-yourselfer.

2

Tune-up general information

Minor tune-up Check

manual to represent a combination of individual operations rather than one specific procedure. If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be is

used

in this

fluids (Section 4)

Replace the spark plugs (Section 27) the cylinder compression (Chapter 2) Replace the air filter (Section 1 6) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor (Section 26) Inspect the spark plug and coil wires (Section 26) Check and adjust the ignition timing (Section 37) Replace the fuel filter (Section 25)

Check

Check Check Check

the

PCV

valve (Section 34)

the cooling system (Section 11) all

underhood hoses (Section 17)

Major tune-up All

The term tune-up

engine related

all

Clean, inspect and test the battery (Section 10) Check and adjust the drivebelts (Section 12)

items listed under Minor tune-up plus Check the EGR valve and system (Section 33 and Chapter 6) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5) Check the charging system (Chapter 5) .

Check

.

the fuel system (Section 29 and Chapter 4) Replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (Section 26)

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

31

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